ARCTIC EXPERIENCES: CONTAINING CAPT. GEORGE E. TYSOIS^'S AVOXDERFUL DRIFT 0:N^ THE ICE-FLOE, A HISTORY OF THE POLARIS EXPEDITION, CRUISE OF THE TI0EES8, AND RESCUE OF THE POLARIS SURVIVORS. TO WHIOU IS ADDKn A GENERAL ARCTIC CHRONOLOGY. Edited by E. VAI^E BLAKE. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 18 74. ' Ky I \j Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by Harper & Brothers, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. P R E F A C E „ A LEADING object of this work is to present, in a popular form, the entire history of the Polaris Exploring Expedition, not only- giving the valuable results accomplished by it, but going deep enough into causes to trace out the weak points in the organiza- tion of the party — indicating, without fear or favor, those elements of disintegration which were at work from the outset, calculated to impair, though it could not wholly destroy, it^ efficiency. The truth must be told, in order that succeeding expeditions may avoid the errors which prevented the development of that esprit de corps which is essential to the highest success of explor- ing parties. Notwithstanding its unfortunate features, the Polaris Expedi- tion was not a failure, but a grand success; for though far more and better might have been accomplished with a united and har- monious company, we can proudly point to the record of the voy- age, in its geographical achievements, os unrivaled ; nor do the scientific results interest the world the less because of any cloud resting upon any member of the expedition. Whoever reads this book to the end will naturally be led to ask, If so much could be accomplished by a divided and disaffect- ed party, what might not be done by a united and properly dis- ciplined body equally well equipped? In regard to the personal experiences of Captain Tyson, the natural reticence and modesty of that officer has compelled the editor to underestimate and suppress much that is fairly due to him ; and the reader is reminded that far more emphasis might fairly be given to his share, in whatever of success was achieved by the Polaris Expedition, but for this peculiarity of the Assist- ant Navigator, " Who, like a statue solid set, And moulded in colossal calm," appears quite unaware that he has done any thing extraordina- ry, or more than what any right-minded, honest man would have done under the same circumstances. a PREFACE. All the original data possessed by Captain Tyson (except his journal written on the Polaris, which was left on board at the time of the separation) was placed in the hands of the editor, with every necessary verbal explanation, before the former sailed in the Tigress. During the interval between his rescue and his re- turn to the Arctic regions in search of the Polaris survivors, he recompiled from memory and a few brief notes his lost journal, and we are thus enabled to give it, with but slight verbal varia- tions, from the original diary. Captain Tyson's "Early Experience" will show that amateur Arctic explorers, physically fitted for the work, may be found in every whaling ship that sails. In addition to the narrative portion, the introductory chapter contains a general resume of Arctic experiences; and in the chronology will be found epitomized all the principal events of interest relating to previous and contemporary Polar expedition^, adding greatly to the value of the work as a book of reference. In accordance with the popular character designed, scientific terms and mere details of work performed have been avoided. These will be published in other forms, for the special benefit of students and scientists. In conclusion, we have only to express our thanks to those who have kindly assisted us by supplying original documents, official or other information, and facilitating our work by grate- fully remembered courtesies. Among those to whom we are greatly indebted are Hon. George M. Kobeson, Secretary of the Navy; Hon. John G. Schumacher, of Brooklyn; Prof Spencer 'r\ Baird, of Washington; Dr. I. I. Hayes, of New York ; Mr, A chibald, British Consul at New York; Col. Jas.Lupton, Washington, D.C. 5 Messrs. J. Carson Bre- voort, and S. B. Noyes, of Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Messrs. H, E, Bond, T. W. Perkins, E. W. White, and Mr. Barnes, of New London, Ct. Others might be named but for whose kindly offices our labors would have been greatly embarrassed ; and, if their names do not illumine this page, they have none the less shed a bright and cheering light on our progress from the earliest inception of this work to its end, and their many courtesies will ever dwell in our grateful remembrance. E. V. B. Broolchjn, January 1, 1874. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTORY CHATTER. The Northern Sphinx. — Arctic Nomenclature. — Geographical Mistakes. — The Ily- j)erboreans. — The Pre-Columbian Era. — Frobi.sher's Gold. — Gilliert and Others. — Henry Hudson. — Russian E.xplorers. — Government Rewards. — Early American Enterprise. — Tlie Whaler Scoiesb*-. — Remarkable Land Journeys. — Combined Sea and Land Explorations. — The Era of Modern Discoveries. — Pairy's Drift. — Steam first used in the Arctic Seas. — The Magnetic I'ole fixed. — Back's Discoveries. — Dease and Simpson. — Rae on Boothia. — Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition. — Relief Parties. — A glorious Spectacle. — First Grinnell Expedition. — Ten Explor- ing Vessels meet at Beechey Island. — Dr. Kane. — Rumors of Cannibalism. — The J^roblem of the North-west Passage solved. — Bellot. — Obtuseness of the British Naval Board. — Providential Mental Coercion. — Tiie Forlorn Hope. — Dr. Hayes. — Profit and Loss. — What is the Use of Arctic Explorations? — Remote Advantages. — Ancient Gradgrinds. — Arctic F.iilures and Successes. — Unexplored Area. — Modern Chivalry. — A pure Ambition Fage ly CHAPTER II. CAPTAIN Tyson's early arctic experience. Captain Tyson's Reflections on the Ice-floe. — Nativity. — Early Life. — Ships as a Whaier. — Death of Shipmate.— Arrives at the Greenland Seas. — The "Middle Ice." — The "North Water." — First Sight of Esquimaux. — The Danes in Green- land. — The Devil's Thumb. — Meets De Haven. — Whales and their Haunts. — A prolonged Struggle with a Whale. — Sailors' Tricks. — Cheating the Mollimokes. — Young Tyson volunteers to winter asliore at Cumberland Gulf. — The Pet Seal. — Life Ashore. — Relieved by the True Love. — Is taken to England. — Returns to the Arctic Regions. — Siglits the abandoned British Ship Resolute. — With three Companions boards the Resolute. — Finds W^ine in the Glasses. — All have a good Time. — Don the Officers' Uniforms. — Retums to his Ship. — Ships as Second Mate in the (ieurge Henry. — As First Officer. — As Captain of the Brig Georgiana. — Meets Captain Charles F. Ilall. — Witnesses and tries to prevent the Loss of the Rescue. — Sails as Master of the Orray Taft, of New Bedford. — Of the Antelope. — Sails to Repulse Bay, and takes the first Whale captured in those Waters. — Again meets Captain Hall, and supplies him with a Boat. — Peculiar Electrical Phenomena at Repulse Bay. — Sails in the Top-sail Schooner Era. — Meets Cap- tain Hall, then "in training " with the Esquimaux. — Log-book Records. — Winters ashore at Niountelik Harbor. — Removes from New London to Brooklyn. — Sails in the Polaris as Assistant Navigator 75 8 COXTEXTS. rilAPTEH III. THK I'OI.aRIS KXI'KIMTION. The North Polar Expedition authorized bv Congress. — Captain Halls Commisision. — The Periwinkle, afterward Polaris, selected. — Letter of Captain Ilall'M. — De- scription of the Steamer Polaris. — Liberal Supplies. — A patent t'anvas Boat. — Books presented by J. Carson IJrevoort. — A r.haracteristic Letter of Captain Hall's. — An Invitation to visit him at the North Pole Page l(J CHAPTER VIL NOTES BY CAPTAIN TYSON ON BOAKD THE POLARIS. Captain Tyson's Soliloquy on leaving Harbor. — A Thunder-storm. — Arrive at St. Johns. — Icebergs in Sight. — I{eligious Services on board the Polaris by Dr. Ne'v- man, of W^ashington. — Prayer at Sea. — Esquimau Hans, with Wife, Children, and " Vermin,'' taken on board. — Firing at Walrus. — The Sailing-master wants to stop at Port Foulk. — The Polaris passes Kane's Winter-cjuarters. — An impassable Barrier of Ice. — Misleading Charts. — The open Polar Sea recedes from Sight. — CONTENTS. Afraid of "Symme's Hole." — Polaris enters liobeson Channel. — Surrounded by Icefields. — Comicil of Officers. — I'lierile Fears. — Sir Edward Belcher. — The Ameri- can Elag raised on "Hall Land." — Seeking a Harbor. — Kejadse Harbor. — Thank God Harbor. — Providence Berg. — Housing the Ship for Winter-quartern .Page 141 CH.a'TER VIII. A Ilunting-party. — A cold Survey. — Description of Coast-hills. — A Musk-ox shot. — Landing Provisions. — Arctic Foxes. — Captain Hall prepares for a Sledge-journey. — Conversation with Captain Tyson. — Off at last. — Captain Hall "forgets some- thing.' — Twenty "somethings." — The Sun disappears. — Banking the Ship.... 152 CHAPTER IX. Putting Provisions Ashore. — Return of Captain Hall. — " Prayer on leaving the Ships." — Captain Hall taken Sick. — What was seen on his Sledge-journey.— Apo- plexy ?—M'Clintocks Engineer — Death of Captain Hall. — A strange Itemark. — Preparing the Grave. — The Funeral. — "I walk on with my lantern." — Thus end his ambitious Projects 159 CHAPTER X. Captain Buddington passes to the Command. — Scientific Observations. — The first Aurora of the Season. — Sunday Prayers discontinued. — Dr. Bessel Storm-bound in the Observatory. — Meyers to the Rescue. — An Arctic Hurricane. — Fast to the Iceberg. — Sawing through the Ice. — Electric Clouds. — Pressure of Floe-ice. — The Iceljerg splits in two. — The Polaris on her Beam-ends. — Hannah, Ilans's Wife, and the Children put Ashore 1G6 CHAPTER XI. Thanksgiving. — A Paraselene. — Dr. Bessel's bad Luck. — "It is very dark now." — Oppressive Silence of the Arctic Night. — The Voracity of Shrimps. — "In Hall's Time it was Heaven to this." — A natural Gentleman. — No Service on Christmas. — The Polaris rises and falls with the Tide.^Futile Blasting. — The New Year. — Atmospheric Phenomena. — The Twilight brightens. — Trip to Cape Lupton. — Height of the Tides at Thank G.d Harbor 169 CHAPTER Xn. An impressive Discussion. — Daylight gains on the Night. — Barometer drops like a Cannon-ball. — Four mock Moons. — Day begins to look like Day. — The F'ox-traps. — The Sun re-appears after an Absence of one hundred and thirty-five Days. — Mock Suns. — Spring coming.— An Exploring-party in Search of Cape Constitution. — A Bear-fight with Dogs. — New light on Cartography. — Tired of canned Meat . 1 74 CHAPTER XIIL Sledge vf. Boat. — What Chester would do when he got Home. — Photographing a Failure. — Off on a Sledge-jouniey with Mr. Meyers, Joe. and Hans. — Habits of 10 CONTENTS. the Musk -cattle. — Peculiar strategic Position. — Encounter a Herd. — IIow the Young are concealed. — Dull Sport. — Newman Bay. — Preparing for Boat-jour- neys. — What does he mean? — ("limatie Changes. — (ilaciers. — Wonderful Sports- men, — The Ice thick and huinmocky. — A dangerous Leak Page 17t> CHAPTER XIV. Two Boat-parties arranged. — A Disaster. — Chester's Boat crushed in the Ice. — The " Historical Flag" lost. — Chester takes tlie patent Canvas Boat. — Captain Tyson's Boat-party. — Jieach Newman Bay. — Dr. Besscl's Snow-hlindness. — Drift-wood. — Extinct Glaciers. — Unfavorable Condition of the Ice. — A Proposal rejected. — Keturn to the Ship 18.5 CHAPTER XV. Engineer's Report. — A new Inscription. — A gentle Awakening. — Providence Berg disrupted. — Having "enough of it." — Lost Opportunities. — Tiie Advent of little Esquimau "Charlie Polaris." — Beset near (^ape Fra/ier. — Alcohol Master. — Interruption of his morning "Nip." — Drifting with the Hoe. — Pack-ice in Smith Sound. — The Oil-boiler. — The bearded Seal. — Preparations for spending another Winter m the Nor^h. — A south-westerly Gale I'JO CHAPTER XVI. JOURNAL OF OEORGK E. TYSOS, ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR ON UNITED STATES STEAMER I'OLARIS, KEIT ON THE ICE-FLOE. Adrift. — The fatal Ice Pressure. — "Heave every thing Overl)oard !" — The Ship breaks away in the Darkness. — Cliildren in the Ox-skins. — First Night adrift. — Snowed under. — Roll-call on the Ice-floe. — Ett'orts to regain the Ship. — The Po- laris coming! — A terrible Disappointment. — Tlie overladen Boat. — Three Oars, and no Rudder. — The Ice breaks beneath us. — Drifting to the South-west. — Re- gain the large P'loe. — Hope of regaining the Polaris abandoned. — Building Huts. — Native Igloos. — Estimating Provisions. — Locality of the Separation. — Meyers's and Tyson's Opinion. — Two Meals a Day. — Mice in the Chocolate. — Too cold for a Watch. — Too weak to stand firmly. — Hans kills and eats two Dogs. — Natives improvident. — Lose Sight of the Sun. — The Dogs follow the Food H)7 CHAPTER XVIL A vain Hunt for Seal. — Pemm'can. — The Dogs stariing. — Blow-holes of the Seal. — Mode of Capture. — Sight Cary Island. — Hans mistaken for a Bear. — Down with Rheumatism. — One Boat used for Fuel. — The Children crying with Hunger. — Joe the best Man. — The Bread walks off". — One square Meal. — Bear and Fox-tracks. — EfTectg of lax Discipline. — Joe and Hannah. — Our Thanksgiving-dinner , 215 CHAPTER XVIII. Can see the Land. — Ilans's Hut. — Nearly dark : two Hours of Twilight. — Economiz- ing Paper. — Northern Lights. — Lying still to save Food. — "All Hair and Tail." — Weighing out Rations by Oimces. — Heavy Ice goes with the Current. — The Es- CONTENTS. 11 quimaux afraid of Cannibalism. — Fox-trap. — Set a Seal-net — Great ResponsibiU ity, but little Authority. — All well, but hungry. — The fear of Death starved and frozen out of me. — The shortest and darkest JJay. — Christmas Page 225 CHAPTER XIX. Taking account of Stock. — Hope lies to the Sor'h. — Eating Seal-skin. — Find it very tough. — How to divide a Seal a la Escpiimau. — Give the Baby the P>es. — Differ- ent Species of Seal. — New-yea's Day, 1873. — Economizing our Lives away. — Just see the Western Shore. — "I'lenty at Disco." — Thirty-six below Zero. — Clothing disappears. — A glorious Sound. — "Kyack! Kyackl" — Starvation postponed. — Thoroughly frightened. --Little Tobias sick. — Oh, for a sound-headed Man! — Four ounces for a Meal. — The Sun re-appears after an Absence of eighty-three Days 234 CHAPTER XX. Belated Joe. — Wrong Calculations. — Drift past Disco. — Beauty of the Northern Constellations. — Hans unreliable. — "Where liuni and Tobacco grow." — Forty below Zero. — An impolite Visitor. — One hundred and third Day on the Ice. — Per- severance of the Natives in hunting. — Hans loses a good Dog. — Beautiful Aurora. — The Mercury freezes. — Too cold for the Natives to himt. — A little Blubber left. — Trust in Providence. — Effects of Refraction. — Relieving Parties on the Ice. — Our Lunch, Seal-skin with the Hair on. — A natural Death. — One hundred and seven Days without seeing printed Words 246 CHAPTER XXL A solemn Entry made in the Journal, in View of Death. — More Security on the Ice- floe than on board the Polaris. — Eating the Offal of better Days. — Tobias very low. — Anticipations of a Break-up. ^Hope. — -foe, Hannah, and little I'nney. — "I am so himgry." — An interior View of Hans'sIIut; his Family. — Talk about reach- ing the Land. — Inexperience of the Men misleads their Judgment 259 CHAPTER XXIL Dreary, yet beautiful. — The Formation of Icebergs. — ^Where and how they grow. — Variety of Form and History. — "The Land of Desolation." — Strength failing. — Travel and Rations. — Unhealthy Influence of mistaken Views. — Managing a Kyack on young Ice. — Secures the Seal. — "Clubbing their Loneliness."'— Poor little Pu- ney's Amusement. — Any Thing good to eat that don't poison. — Narwhals, or Sea- uniooiTis. — A royal Seat. — Hans criticised. — Cleaning House. — "Pounding-day." — Our Carpet. ^Lunching by the Yard on Seal's Entrails. — "Oh I give me my Harpoon." — No Clothing fit to hunt in. — Inventory of Wardrobe. — Narwhals use- ful in carrying off Ball and Ammunition. — Pleasant Sensations in Retrospect. — The Skin of the Nose. — Castles in the Air. — Violent Gale and Snow-storm. — Dig- ging out. — Three Feet square for Exercise. — Dante's Ice-hell 266 CHAPTER XXIIL Patching up Clothes.— Captain Hall's Rifle.— Cutting Fresh-water Ice for Drink. — Salt-water Ice to season Soup. — Four months' Dirt. — Sun Revelations. — "You are nothing but Bone."— That chronic Snow-drift. — Sei.!-flipper for Lunch. — Watch- ing a Seal-hole.— Eating his "Jacket."— Dovekies.— The Solace of a Smoke.— Native Mode of cleansing Co(^king Utensils.— The West Coast in Sight.— Joe's 12 CONTENTS, Valuation of Seals. — Prospects dark and gloomy. — Bill falls Overboard. — Death to the I'ront. — Evidences of Weakness. — The Natives alarmed. — Washington's Birthday. — A novel Sledge. — The "right Way of the Hair." — Discussions about reaching Shore Page 279 CHAPTER XXIV. Decide to make the Attempt. — Foiled by successive Snow-storms. — Down to one scant Afeal a Day. — Land thirty-five Miles off. — God alone can help us. — Canary- bird nations. — Bear-tracks. — A Bird Supper. — A Monster Oogjook. — Six or sev- en hundred Pounds of fresh Meat! Thirty Gallons of Oil I — Oogjook Sausage. — Our Huts resemble Slaughter houses. — Hands and Faces smeared with Blood. — Content restored. — Taking Observations. — Out of the Weed. — A I'resent from Joe. — Heat of Esquimaux Huts. — Desponding Thoughts. — "So I sit and dream of Plans for Keleasc.'' — Terrific Noises portend the breaking up of the Floe. — An unbroken Sea of Ice. — Hans Astray again. — That "Oogjook Liver." — The Stew- ard convinced. — An Ice-quake in the Night. — The Floe breaks twenty yards from the Hut. — Floe shattered into hundreds of Pieces. — Sixty Hours of Ice, Turmoil, and utter Darkness. — The "Floes" become a "Pack." — Storm abates. — Quietly Drifting. — A Choice for Bradford. — Our Domain wearing away. — Twenty Pace-s only to the Water. — Whistling to charm an Oogjook. — A Kelapse into Barbar- ism 28t< CHAPTER XXV. A Bear prospecting for a Meal. — The Ice in an Uproar. — Seven Seals in one Day. — Spring by Date.— The "Bladder -noses" appear. — Ofi" Hudson Strait. — A Bear comes too close. — A lucky Shot in the Dark. — Description of I'rsiis mnritimus. — Milk in the young Seal. — Fools of Fortune. — We take to the Boat. — Rig W^ash- boards. — A desperate Struggle to keep AHoat. — Alternate between Boat and Floe. — Striving to gain the west Shore. — Dead-weights. — Ice splits. — Joe's Hut carried off. — Rebuild it. — Ice splits again, and destroys Joe's new Hut. — Standing ready for a Jump. — Our Breakfast goes down into the Sea. — No Blubber for our Lamps. —The Ice splits once more, separating Mr. Meyers from the I'arty.— We stand hel|»less, looking at each other. — Meyers unable to manage the Boat. — Joe and Hans go to his Relief. — All of us but two follow. — Springing from Piece to Piece of the Ice. — Meyers rescued. — He is badly frozen. — Mishaps in the Water. — High Sea running. — Washed out of our Tent by the Sea. — Women and (liildren stowed in the Boat. — Not a diy Place to stand on. — Ice recloses. — Sea subsides. — Land Birds appear. — No Seal. — Very Hungry 30.". CHAPTER XXVL Easter-Sunday. — Flashes of Divinity. — Meycrs's Suffering from want of Food. — Men very Weak. — Fearful Thoughts. — A timely Relief. — Land once more in Sight. — Flocks of Ducks. — Grotesque Misery. — A S'atue of Famine. — A desolating Wave. — A Foretaste of worse. — Manning the Boat in a new Fashion. — A Battery of Ice-blocks. — All Night "standing by" the Boat. — A fearful Struggle for Life. — Worse off than St. Paul. — D.vylight at last. — Launched once more. — Watch and Watch. — The Sport and Jest of the Elements. — Lack of Food, — Half drowned, CONTENTS, ii cold, and hungry. — Eat dried Skin saved for Clothing. — A Bear! a Bear! — Anx- ious Moments. — Poor I'olar! God has sentusp'ood. — Ilecuperating on Bear-meat. — A crippled, overloaded Boat. — A Battle of the Bergs. — Shooting young Blad- der-noses, — Hoping for lielief, Page 317 CHAPTER XXVII, A joyful Sight I — A Steamer in View, — Lost again, — She disappears, — Once more we seek liest upon a small Piece of Ice. — The Hope of Rescue keeps us awake, — Another Steamer. — We hoist our Colors, muster our Fire-arms, fire, and shout. — She does not see us.— She falls oft'. — Re -appears, — Gone again. — Still another Steamer. — Deliverance can .lot be far off. — Another Night on the Ice. — Hans catches a Baby Seal. — "There's a Steamer!" — Very Foggy, and we fear to lose her. — Hans goes for her in his Kyack. — She approaches. — We are saved! — All safe on board the Tigress. — Amusing Questions. — A good Smoke and a glorious Breakfast. — Once more able "to wash and be clean," — Boarded by Captain De Lane, of the Walrus. — Meyers slowly recovering, — A severe Gale, — Six hundred Seals killed. — Captain Bartlett heading for St, Johns, — The Esquimaux Chil- dren the "Lions," — Awaiting the Tailor, — Going Home in the United States Steamship Frolic 326 CHAPTER XXVIII, THE 8EABCH FOB THE POLARIS AND THE SURVIVORS OF THE EXPEDITION. The News of the Rescue, — Captain Tyson and Party arrive at Washington, — Board of Inquiry organized. — Testimony given as to lax Discipline. — The Juniata, Com- mander Braine, dispatched, with Coal and Stores, to Disco. — Captain James Bud- dington, Ice-pilot. — Captain Braine's Interview with Inspector Karrup Smith, of North Greenland. — Juniata at Upernavik. — Small Steam-launch Little Juniata essays to cross Melville Bay. — Repelled by the Ice. — President Grant in Council with Members of the National Academy of Sciences, — Purchase of the Tigress. — Description of the Vessel, — Necessary Alterations. — List of (Jflicers. — Captain Ty- son Acting Lieutenant and Ice-pilot. — A Reporter to the New York Herald ships as ordinary Seaman. — Esquimau Joe ships as Interpreter. — Several Seamen be- longing to the Ice-floe Company ship in the Tigress. — Extra Equipments 340 CHAPTER XXIX, The Tigress, Commander Jamos A, Greer, sets sail,— Enthusiasm at her Departure, — Hans and Family as Passengers, — "Knowledge is Power," — Amve at Tes- suisak.— Governor Jansen, — Tigress proceeds North, — Approach Northumberland Island.— Not the place of Separation. — Make Littleton Island.— Excitement on Board on hearing Human Voices. — Encanijjment of the Polaris Survivors found. — Commander Greer's Success, — Esquimaux in Possession of the deserted House, — Captain Tyson's Advice to seek the Whalers 350 CHAPTER XXX. CAPTAIN Tyson's cruise in the tigress. Captain Tyson's Journal on board the Tigress. — "Too late," — Fire training on board. — Mai de mer. — A tall Story. — Angling for Porpoises with Pork. — A nautic- al Joke. — Beware of the Tigress. — Fog at Sea, — Naive Comments on Icebergs. — 14 CONTENTS. Tender Hearts among the Blue-jackets. — Illusions. — Aurora. — Whistling to fright- en the Bergs. — Splendid Northern Lights. — Heavy Gales. — The Doctor's Clerk. — Two old Whalers. — We leave Night behind us. — J'our Hans's Affliction. — Family returned to Greenland. — The Tigress pitching and -: I'ing. — The Fog-bknket. — Cheese tor Bait. — An Iceberg turns a Somersault. — A beautiful Display. — A slight Accident. — Meet the Steam-launch. — (Jfficial Correspondence with Com- mander Greer. — Ashore at Littleton Island and Life-boat Cove. — Sounding for the foundered Polaris. — Abundance of Food abandoned by the Polaris Sur- vivors Page 350 CHAPTER XXXI. Homeward-bound. — Fire! Fire I — An h-^nored Custom. — Contrast of the Sailor's Life. — A Set-oif to the Midnight Sun. — Heavy Gale. — All want to shoot a Bear. — Executive Officer White the "killing" Man.— A narrow Escape. — Thoughts of Home. — At Upernavik for Repairs.— The Danish and half-breed Girls. — Dress. — Dancing. — A startling Record. — AtGoodhavn Harbor. — Captain Tyson visits the Juniata. — Continued bad Weather. — Sight Cape Mercy. — The Sea sweeps the Gal- ley. — The ("ook disgusted. — Effects of the Gale in the Wardroom. — "At home" in Niountelik Harbor, Cumberland Gulf 368 CHAPTER XXXII. A Change for the better. — Repairing Damages. — Company in the Gulf. — Looking for Scotch Whalers. — The Natives bring Deer-meat to the Ship. — Arctic Birds flying South. — Captain Hall's old Proteges. — Demoralization of the Natives of the west Coast. — Collecting "Specimens." — Bad Case of "Stone Fever." — "Time and Tide wait for no Man." — Billy's Curiosities. — Captain Tyson meets his late Rescuer, Captain Bartlett. — Mica Speculation. — Short of Coal. — How we lost our Dinner. — A saltatory Dining-table. — Sight a Scotch Whaler. — Arrival at Ivgi- tut, South Greenland. — Meet the Fox, of Arctic Fame. — Kryolite, Coal, Fish, and another Gale. — Friend Schnider, the fat Dane. — Canaries, Pigeons, etc., do- mesticated here. — The Crew overworked. — A Hurricane. — Antics of the Furni- ture. — Force of Sea-waves 376 CHAPTER XXXIII. The Gale abates. — Consultation as to Course. — Useless Cruising. — Start for Home. — More bad Weather. — Land-birds blown out to Sea. — Reminiscences of the Ice-floe Drift. — A narrow Escape. — A black Fog. — Interviewing a Hawk at the Mast- head. — Arrive at St. Johns. — News of the Polaris Party. — Return to Brooklyn. — What the Tigress accomplished. — Lessons in Arctic Navigation. — Braverj' of the Officers. — A stormy but agreeable Cruise 383 CHAPTER XXXIV. THEORY OF NORTH POLAR CURRENTS. The Hydrography of Smith Sound. — The Currents forhid the Theory of an "Open Polar Sea." — Movements of the Ice. — A northern Archipelago a reasonable Sup- position. — Velocity of Current along the east and west Coasts. — No Current in the Middle. — Experience of the Polaris. — Absence of large Bergs in Smith Sound. — Open nearly all Winter. — Radiant Heat preserved by Cloud Strata. — Deflection of the Current at Cape York. — Robeson Channel described. — Land seen from the CONTENTS. 15 Mast-head both east and west. — Coast -line l>eyond Cape Union. — Two Headlands to the east-north-east of Kepulse Harbor. — Absence of Snow on Coast of North Greenland above Humboldt Glacier. — Elevated Tlateaus in the Interior. — The Land around Polaris Bay. — Clam-shells at an Elevation of two thousand Feet. — Variegated but odorless Flora. — Animal Life. — Insects. — Skeletons of Musk- cattk Page .388 CHAPTER XXXV. How to reach the North Pole. — Smith Sound the true Gate-way. — This course of- fers the Alternative of Land Travel. — Plenty of Game in Summer. — April and May the Months for Sledging. — Proper Model of Vessel's Hull. — Twenty -five Men enough. — A Tender necessary. — A Depot at Port Foulke with a detail of Men. — Ice at liensselaer Harbor. — Avoid I'aci-ice in Smith Sound. — Go direct for west Coast. — Form Caches at intervals of fifty Miles. — Deposit Reserve Boats. — Style of Traveling-sledge. — Native preferred. — Selecting Dogs. — Keep them well fed. — Keep Sto'.ss on Deck. — Winter as far north as the Ship can get. — How to get out of a Trap. — Provision a Floe, and trust to the Current. — Take yonr Boats along. — Replenish at Caches. — Two Months from a high Latitude sufficient. — It will yet be done 393 CHAPTER XXXVI. THE FATE OF THE POLARIS. The Polaris Survivors. — Ship driven to the North-east. — Her Position on the Night of October 15. — Darkness and Confusion. — Anchors and Boats gone. — The Leak gains. — Steam up. — Roll-call on Board. — 7jOokout for the Floe Party. — Storm abated. — Inspection of Stores. — The Polaris fast to grounded Hummocks. — " Let her fill I" — Life-boat Cove. — The Polaris left a Legacy to an Esquimau Chief. — She founders in his Sight 398 CHAPTER XXXVII. THE FORTUNES OF THE FOLARIS SURVIVORS. Life on Shore. — A House built. — Visitors. — Womanly Assistance. — Scientific Ob- servations. — Amusements. — Old Myoney. — Hunting. — Boat built. — Starting r^r Home. — A Summer-trip. — Sight a Vessel. — Rescue by Captain Allen, of the Ra- venscraig. — Romance of the Polaris Expedition. — Safe Arrival of all the ^un'ivors at New York. — Consul MoUoy 402 - CHAPTER XXXVm. SCIENTIFIC NOTES. The Pacific Tidal Wave. — Meteorological and Magnetic Records. — Glaciers. — Fauna. — Entomology. — Flora 410 Appendix 423 Index 481 ILLUSTRATIONS. - V . Paob A FEARFUL STRCGGLE FOR LIFE Frontispiece. TRACK OF THE POLARIS, AND VELOCITY OF CURRENTS Map. SEBASTIAN CABOT 26 HALL DISCOVERING FROBISHER RELICS 28 BARENTZ'S WINTER-QUARTERS 29 HENRY HUDSON 31 BARON VON WRANGEL 33 WILLIAM SCORESBY 36 CAPTAIN PARRY 39 SIR JOHN ROSS 46 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN 52 ADVANCE AND RESCUE 57 ARCTIC DISCOVERY SHIPS 58 FINDING REMAINS OF SKELETONS IN A BOAT 65 DR. KANE 68 DR. HAYES 70 ESQUIMAU woman's KNIFE , 74 CAPTAIN TYSON 76 CAPTURING THE SEAL 79 CONGRESS AND POLARIS AT GOODHAVN 82 THE "devil's thumb" 84 eider-ducks 88 "every thing presented a mouldy appearance" 94 the polaris 101 a snow-squall 106 charles francis hall 114 joe, hannah, and child 118 RELICS OF franklin's EXPEDITION 120 FAC-SIMILE OF CAPTAIN HALL's WRI-'ING 128 DR. EMIL BESSEL 129 SIDNEY O. BUDDINGTON 130 HUBBARD C. CHESTER 131 EMIL SCHUMAN 132 WILLIAM MORTON 133 UPERNAVIK 138 THE FISCANAES PILOT 143 ICE BREAKING UP 151 POLARIS AT CAPE LUPTON — WINTER-QUARTERS, 1871-72 152 CAPTAIN hall's SLEDGE-JOURNEY 156 18 ILLUSTRATIONS. Paoc gothic icebkrg 158 burial of captaik hall 164 HEAD AND ANTLKRS OF THF: ARCTIC REINIJ ER 173 SEALS 178 MUSK-OX 180 ESQUIMAU DCO 184 ARCTIC WOLVES 189 OBAVE OF CAPTAIN HALL 190 THE LUMME OF THE NORTH 196 "the ship broke away IN THE DARKNESS, AND WE LOST SIGHT OF HER IN A moment" 199 NATIVE LAMP 210 THE GREAT AUK 214 JOE WATCHING SEAL-HOLE 216 A PERILOUS SITUATION 224 AN AURORA 227 PLACING STORES ON THE ICE 233 CAPTAIN TYSON IN HIS ARCTIC COSTUME 239 GOING THROUGH AN ICEBERG 245 HANS, WIFE, AUGUSTINA, AND TOBIAS 249 ARCTIC HOSPITALITY 258 HANNAH AND JOE PLAYING CHECKERS 262 SURROUNDED BY ICEBERGS 265 HANS GOING FOR A SEAL ON YOUNG ICE 270 NARWHAL 273 BREAKING UP OF ICE-RAFT 300 AN ESQUIMAU PILOT 304 OOMIAK, OR woman's BOAT 316 ICE-DRIFT OF THE TY'SON PARTY 327 THE RESCUE 329 THE COMPANY WHO WERE ON THE ICE-DRIFT WITH CAPTAIN TYSON 338 THE JUNIATA 342 THE TIGRESS... 345 GOVERNOR JATTSEN AND FAMILY 352 POLARIS CAMP, 1872-73 3.'>4 SCENE IN SOUTHERN GREENLAND 367 ENCAMPMENT NEAR IVGITUT 375 KRYOLITE MINE 380 A SUMMER ENCAMPMENT 401 XHB LATEST STYLE 409 M 1 EXPLANATION Oiitirdnl Track of l.S.S.rolarU Hetiirn " Direction of CurrentH ■ Thi^ figurtu in Smith fvjund.Kdiri'iIy , »tii1 Holiettnn Channtria, indicate the ^>' I >rity of tlie currents />«r Axmf* \ % rF^^^vji 1 7S- 18 63 i:nff.ty Kilt &8e€,N. Y. MAP SUOWniO THK TBAOK OF UNITKD STATES 6TEAMEB " POLARIS," AM) TELOOITY OF OTTBBENTS. ARCTIC EXPERIENCES BY LAND AND SEA. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER The Northern Sphinx. — Arctic Nomenclature. — Geographical Mistakes. — The Hy- perboreans. — The Pre-C'olumbian Era. — Frobish ;r's Gold. — Gilbert and Others. — Henry Hudson. — Russian Explorers. — Government Rewards. — Early American Enteri)rise. — The Whaler Scoresby. — Remarkable Land Journeys. — Combined Sea and Land Explorations. — The Era of Modern Discoveries. — Parry's Drift. — Steam first used in the Arctic Seas. — The Magnetic Pole fixed. — Back's Discoveries. — Dense and Simpson. — Rae on Boothia. — Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition. — Relief Parties. — A glorious Spectacle. — First Grinnell Expedition. — Ten Explor- ing Vessels meet at Beechey Island. — Dr. Kane. — Rumors of Cannibalism. — The Problem of the North-west Passage solved. — Bellot. — Obtuseness of the British Naval Board. — Providential Mental Coercion. — Tiie Forlorn Hope. — Dr. Hayes. — Profit ana Loss. — W.'iat is the Use of Arctic Explorations ? — Remote Advantages. — Ancient Gradgrinds. — Arctic Failures and Successes. — Unexplored Area. — Modern Chivalry, — A pure Ambition. The invisible Sphinx of the uttermost North still protects with jealous vigilance the arcana of her ice-bound mystery. Her fin- gers still clutch with tenacious grasp the clue which leads to her coveted secret ; ages have come and gone ; generations of heroic men have striven and failed, wrestling with Hope on the one side and Death on the other ; philosophers have hypothesized, some- times truly, but often with misleading theories : she still clasps, in solemn silence, the riddle in her icy palm — remaining a fas- cination and a hope, while persistently baffling the reason, the skill, and the courage of man. Skirmishers have entered at the outer portals, and anon re- treated, bearing back with them trophies of varying value. Whole divisions, as of a grand army, have approached her domains with all the paraphernalia of a regular siege, and the area of attack 20 AKCTIC EXPERIENCES. been proportionably widened ; important breaches have been ef- fected, the varied fortunes of war befalling the assailants; some retaining possession of the fields they have won; some falling back with but small gain; others, with appalling loss and death, have vainly sought escape and safety from her fatal toils. Nor has the citadel been won. " Undiscovered" is still written over the face of the geographical pole. Yet as brave men as ever trod the earth or sailed the wide salt seas have time and again returned to the encounter, defying this Polar tyrant, who hurls from her mysterious abode the vengeful storms of wind and hail and snow; smiting some with ice-blind- ness, and others with the dread consuming scurvy; while others still she decoys into the perils of a frozen solitude whence there is no return, and the terrors of starvation meet them ; for still others she spreads the treacherous crevasse, or sets upon them the cruel, unpitying savage; while the rotting ribs of noble vessels lie scat- tered through all her borders. Worst fate of all, some noble souls have been sent empty-handed back, to die of disappointed hof>es, and grand ambitions quenched ! Uitherto repulsing all — victor over all — save the indomitable will; but that, enduring, man shall yet overcome even the terrific elemental forces with which she defends her domain. For, strange as it may seem, while she defies, she tempts; while baffling efibrt, she encourages hope; while foiling the bravest, she holds out inducement to renewed attack. As with one hand uplifted, she swears, " ilitberto shalt thou come, and no further," with the other she beckons delusively to the next aspir- ant. So that each brave enthusiast says to himself, " I shall con- quer — she has betrayed all others; I shall win;" and thus the hope of final success never has been and never will be quenched, until full fruition satisfies the questionings of science and the long- ings of adventure. That we may be the better prepared to judge what will be the future of Arctic exploration, we will take a retrospective view of what the ancient mariners of other centuries have accomplished, and what the scientists of our own age have endured, in the hopes of solving the Polar mystery. And we may be assured that ter- rors which could not repel the little shallops of the early advent- urei-s, will not dismay the better-equipped explorers of the pres- ent and the future. COMPLICATIONS. 21 ARCTIC NOMENCLATURE. But it is well to premise that, unless the reader is familiar with the details of Arctic explorations, he is very apt to get bewilder- ed with the mixed nomenclature which he encounters, with each successive publication; and this is no fault of the authors, but the result of peculiar circumstances and conflicting vanities, added to the fact that the Arctic region is unlike every other portion of the earth, except its southern antipodes, in the fact that much of its surface, both land and water, has no aboriginal names, being destitute of inhabitants; while those places which have received names from successive explorers have, in many instances, been given titles unknown to the old geographers. This has sometimes arisen from the fact that what has been named as an island turns out, on more accurate survey, to be a peninsula, or a portion of the main-land, and, of course, the re- verse experience is liable to occur. What some early voyager has called a strait or a channel, a later explorer determines to be a bay, and then that gets a new name. But what complicates the Polar geography and hydrography much more than these simple reversals of contour or superior accuracy, results from the prac- tice — especially with modest travelers, of naming their discoveries for friends and patrons — often obscure in every thing but wealth: and then, later in history, the explorer's own name is considered more suitable, and influential admirers bring it to the front and affix it, like the writing on an ancient palimpsest, over those which he selected — the patron's name giving way, with various prefixes or suffixe3, to that of the discoverer. Thus one needs to be familiar with each successive addition to Arctic literature; indeed, to be able to carry in the mind's eye the contour of headlands, islands, shore lines, gulfs, bays, and riv- ers, in order to be enabled to trace the minuter history and daily movements of any particular party. To exemplify. In a map published in a work on Arctic affairs, just previous to Parry's first voyage, Baffin Bay was treated as a " phantom," and found no place, though it had been accurately described by the dis- coverer. In the chart furnished to Sir John Franklin, in 1845, the name of Barrow Strait is given to all the water-course extend- ing from Lancaster Sound to Banks Land. In a map drawn from official documents, published by J. Arrowsmith, of London, in 22 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES, 1857, we have this same water subdivided into Barrow Strait, Parry Sound, and M'Clure Strait; while in "Monteitb's Phys- ical Atlas," dated 1866, we find Melville Strait substituted for Parry Sound; and, instead of M'Clure Strait, Banks Strait and M'Clintock Channel; while in "Guyot's Atlas" Baffin Land sup- pleinent'4 and obliterates Cockburn Land, What were former- ly called the Parry Lslands are now termed the Arctic Archipel- ago; and the new edition of " Appleton's Cyclopedia" has changed the well-known Pond Bay of the whalers to Eclipse Sound, In many English maps Grinnell Land is called Albert Land, it being so named by Captain Penny, who did not know that De Haven had been before him ; and the error, though sufficiently exposed, has been persisted in. Thus the whole Arctic regi'.'ns have been subjected to a continued change of nomenclature, and, of course, where hundreds of names are concerned, a familiar knowledge of events, and great care in transcription is requisite to a clear understanding of the position of a given party at a defi- nite period. Without such circumspection, writers on Arctic af- fairs are apt to sadly confuse their narratives and bewilder their readers. Then, too, voyagers themselves make mistakes of this descrip- tion which mislead the chart-makers. Though this is embarrass- ing, it is not surprising, when we consider the difficulties under which surveys are often made in that intensely cold climate ; and the fact, too, is considered, that very often the whole of the land visible, as well as the ice-closed waters, are all of one nearly uni- form whiteness, so that it is exceedingly difficult to distinguish at any great distance the one from the other. GEOGRAPHICAL MISTAKES. In illustration of these possible mistakes we will only refer to a few of those which are well known, and have been made by usually careful and experienced travelers. In 1819, Buchan and Lieutenant (afterward Sir John) Franklin sailed for a considera- ble distance through Lancaster Sound, and then concluding it to be a bay, "seeing land at the end," they turned back. Captain John Ross also made the same mistake. The famous Captain Kellet reported a mythical land off the Herald Islands, Speaking of Wrangel Sea, or what we should call the Polar Sea, he wrote, so late as November 15, 1851: " We GEOGRAPHICAL MISTAKES. 23 have certain proof of there being land in this sea (Wrangel's), for on August 17, 184P, I landed on an island in lat. 71° 19' N., long. 175° W. ; it is almost inaccessible, and literally alive with birds. From the neighborhood of this island I saw, as far as a man can be positive of his sight, in those seas to the westward an exten- sive land, very high and rugged, distant from my position I con- jecture fifty or sixty miles. I could not approach it with my ship, but might possibly have done so with a steamer." Three years later the United i^tates steamer Vincennes, Commo- dore Rogers, visited Herald Island, and sailed around in all direc- tions, as well as to the westward, looking for the "extensive" land describ' i by Captain Kellet, of the Royal Navy, but found none: neither ttiao above described, nor some other land report- ed in the Vrctic Parliamentary papers of 1849-51. Well might Captain Fellet say, as he did in his report: "It becomes a nerv- ous thing to report a discovery of land in these regions without actually landing on it; but, as far as a man can be certain who has one hundred and thirty pairs of eyes to assist him, and all agreeing, I am certain I have discovered an extensive land. I think it is also more than probable that those peaks we saw are a continuation of a range of mountains seen by the natives off Cape Jaken, and mentioned by Baron Wrangel." — Par. Papers, 107. - ^------ ^^ '■-,.- ■ ■' K -.-^....-.v .^.-^:v.: And yet he was mistaken — there was no land there ! Again, Captain Kennedy, of the Prince Albert, in his report to Lady Franklin, in October, 1852, describes how he and the young French officer, Ren^ Bellot, walked over the land which Sir J. C. Ross, the great Antarctic as well as A^-ctic traveler, had reported to be a sea. This place was between 72° and 73° N. lat., and about 100° W. long. R^ne Bellot, with the instinctive politeness of his nation, wrote in his journal : " Hitherto I had hoped Sir James Ross was right in his conjectures, but there can be no doubt now that he was mistaken, for we have walked over the land." And then this same careful Kennedy, at Cape Walker, himself walks over a cairn erected by Captain Austin, and mistakes it for a natural production of the cliff. Among the more modern explorers. Dr. Kane frequently refers to the mistakes of his predecessors. He says (Appendix, page 303): "The island named Louis Napoleon by Captain Inglefield 24 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. does not exist; the resemblance of ice to land will readily explain the mistake." Again he says: "There is no correspondence between my own and the Admiralty charts north of 78° 18' N. Not only do I re- move the general coast-line some 2° of long, to the east, but its trend is altered 60° of angular measurement. There are no land- marks of my predecessor recognizable." ' - . These mistakes he attributes in part to the " sluggishness of the compass, and in part to the eccentricities of refraction." Dr. Kane's successor — Dr. Hayes — corrected the western coast- line of his friend, saying also of the opposite coast: "lie was much tempted to switch it off twenty miles to the eastward." While the Polaris has sailed into what he and others thought to be the Polar Sea, north of Kennedy Channel, finding a strait and bays, obliterating the Polar Ocean in the latitude where it was supposed to exist, but confirming the idea that it will yet be found, only farther to the north than any human eye has yet penetrated. But, though many mistakes have been made, much more of tangible fact has been revealed. Certain lands and waters, once as mythical as the "Hyperborean" of the ancients, are now as familiar to the geographer and Arctic mariner as the coasts of Europe, or our own Atlantic sea-board. There is also an additional perplexity arising from the pecul- iar refracting power of the atmosphere, which at times throws up the lowlands into plateaus, and slight elevations into precipitous capes and headlands, so that the most careful observers have been deceived by a phenomenon not suspected to exist. In view of all these embarrassments likely to affect the accuracy of the Arctic explorer, we heartily concur in the wisdom of that energetic and successful navigator, Captain Kennedy, when he declared that he " would never report any thing as land which he had not walked over, nor any thing as water which he had not sailed through." THE HYPERBOREANS. What has been really discovered, instead of only imagined, we shall now briefly note. Without going into the details of the old Norwegian coloniza- tion of Greenland, and the exploration of the American coast by the Norsemen of the tenth and eleventh centuries, via Iceland, which are matter of separate record, and have no direct bearing RIVAL EXPLORERS. 25 on the history of modern Arctic exploration, we will only briefly advert to the fact of such communication with the Old and New World having taken place, showing that in those comparatively early ages, while the rich southern plains of Europe and Asia were but sparsely populated, and millions of square miles lay opon to the natural pre-emption of the first comer, there were still always to be found whole nationalities who preferred the cold and rug- ged districts of the North wherein to build their homes, to what would seem to us the more attractive regions of the temperate zone ; but as the white whale and the Polar bear would perish in a warmer clime, so there have ever been races of men who have courted the Polar cold, and avoided, as a stifling furnace, the genial breezes of the luxurious South. THE PRE-COLUMBIAN ERA. Approaching the era of the modern discovery of America, but preceding it by little over a century, we find that the north-west passage to India was attempted by two Venetian brothers named Zeni, who were but the precursors of a long list of mercantile ad- venturers who essayed the same course; for at first it was not scientific enthusiasm or even a morbid curiosity which sent so many ships and expeditions vainly beating out their strength against the north western barrier. Gain was the motive power which mainly ruled all these efforts for more than two centuries. RIVAL EXPLORERS. The English, Dutch, Danes, and Kussians were, with reason, anxiously jealous of the rapid strides which Spain, in the six- teenth century, was making toward universal dominion ; and to offset her power and gains in Mexico, Peru, and elsewhere, the English in particular made desperate efforts to find a shorter and easier way to the East Indies than that which the tedious sail round the Cape of Good Hope afforded; and what the English at- tempted by the north-west, Eussia, somewhat later, tried to secure, both by land and sea, following a north-east course. And even after this fanciful idea, based on geographical igno- rance, was finally exploded, mercantile enterprise mingled with the pride of national acquisition in stimulating Arctic explora- tions. For though in all, or nearly all of the more modern at- tempts, scientific results were recognized as subordinate subjects 26 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. of interest, it was not until the time of Franklin and Parry that any expedition was fitted out for the sole purpose of geograph- ical and scientific inquiry. 8EUABTIA.N OABOT. Sebastian Cabot made his first voyage to the north-west coast of America under letters patent from Henry VIII., empowering the elder Cabot (John) and his three sons " to discover and con- quer unknown lands," they being the first (of the Columbian era) who ever saw the main-land of North America, and on these north-western voyages he was the first to note the variations of the needle ; but the subject of trade and commerce was always a prominent object with himself u.ir\ royal patron. Later he pro- jected a voyage to the North Pole; but though he penetrated the Arctic circle he succeeded in getting only to 67° 80', sailing through Davis Strait; but neither he nor John Cabot had divest- ed themselves of the idea that the ancient Cathay might be thus reached. After the Cabots came the Cortereal brothers, who, from 1500-03, made three voyages, disastrous in loss of life, and not attaining any higher latitude than 60° N. The results of these voyages were not particularly encouraging, and the thoughts of kings and the merchant princes of those times FROBISHER'S GOLD. 27 began to dwell on other means and routes to the spice lands of the Orient ; and in consonance with this change in the tide of public opinion, an expedition was prepared by the Muscovy Com- pany of London, under the leadership of the ill-fated Sir Ilugh Willoughby, with instructions to find a north-east passage to Cathay and India. Ue succeeded in reaching Nova Zembla; there he encountered the formidable ice-fields of the Arctic Ocean, was forced back in a south-westerly direction to the coast of Lap- land, where he and his whole ship's company were found frozen to death ! Richard Chancellor, who was the real navigator of this expe- dition, and sailed in one of the three vessels composing it, reach- ed the north coast of Russia, landed and made his way to the presence of the Czar, from whom he obtained the mercantile privi- leges which resulted in founding the famous "Muscovy Com- pany" of London. frobisheb's gold. The next movement of importance were the voyages made in 1576-78 by the renowned Frobisher. He was an early and zeal- ous advocate of the north-west route, and spent many years in fruitless attempts to get his mercantile friends to invest in the project of a voyage of exploration, which he believed would be successful under his leadership ; but so many of this class had suffered pecuniary losses in previous expeditions that he was un- able to procure a ship. Failing with the " mercenarie men of trade," he next turned to the Court, and finally succeeded in enlisting the sympathy and aid of Elizabeth's ministers. On his first voyage he collected, from the shores of what he called a strait, but what Charles Francis Hall discovered to be a bay, a quantity of black ore, thinking that it contained gold, and with this treasure returned to England. To those who have read Captain Hall's work, narrating his ex- plorations in that vicinity, the whole subject of " Frobisher's gold" must be familiar. Some of the metallurgists of London appear to have been either deceived themselves, or connived at deceiv- ing others into the belief that mining could be profitably con- ducted in the country north of what was then called Frobisher Strait ; and for a while Sir Martin Frobisher and the riches of 28 ARCTIC KXPERIENCES. HALL DISOOVEBINa FKOUISUEB BELIOB. the new Cathaj was the latest sensation of the Court circle. He received the encouragement and patronage of Elizabeth herself on two succeeding voyages ; but neither his own private fortune nor the royal coffers appear to have been replenished by the " witches gold." It is proper to add, that scientific observations, as understood in those days, were not neglected. GILBERT AND OIHERS. The chivalrous and courtly Sir Iluniphrey Gilbert was anoth- er of the Elizabethan courtiers who was persuaded of the prac- ticability of a north-west passage to China, if not India. He was a navigator of great skill and experience, and made two voyages of discovery to the north coast of America ; and, on his second, he took formal possession of the island of Newfoundland in the name of the British Queen. But he was not permitted to partici- GILBERT AND OTHERS. 29 pate in the honors which awaited him in his own country. His ship foundered at sea, and ail on board perished, thus experien- cing, as the poet sings of him in the ballad, " It was as near to heaven By water as by land." John Davis, the discoverer of the strait which bears his name, also surveyed a considerable part of the coast of Greenland as fai- north as the seventy-third degree. During all this time the Dutch, the French, and the Danes were not idle; but they went principally to the north-east. Barentz made three voyages, 1594-96. He started under great disadvan- tages, being inexperienced and far from properly furnished ; but he was brave and persevering, and what man could do under such circumstances he did ; on his third voyage he had to abandon his BABEMTZ'S WINTEB-qUABTEBB. 30 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. ship, and with his crew take to the boats, but unfortunately per- ished from exposure and xhaustion when near Icy Cape, a head- land of Russian America, i.i the Arctic Ocean. Ilis house, which he built on land for winter-quarters, was d'scovered by a Norwe- gian whaler, named Carlsen, in 1871, on an island E.S.E. of Nova Zembla. . Many others, whom we have not space to mention, fill out the long list of bold and hardy adventurers whom neither continued disaster nor threatened death could turn from their purpose; and no doubt some nameless heroes, who did not happen to rank high enough to catch the "sounding trump of fame," might, if we knew their humble history, their faithful courage and endurance, out- shine in merit all the rest. But, regardless of individual virtue, history inexorably fixes her pivotal points upon those men and events which form a nec- essary connecting link with the times past and the time coming. In accordance with this mode of selection, the name of Henry Hudson starts to the front as a prominent standard-bearer in the work of Arctic exploration. His first voyage was made under the direction of the old Muscovy Company, in 1607. Considering the previous history and the many failures of preceding explor- ers, he received the somewhat astonishing order " to go direct to the North Pole !" He did what he could to obey orders, and reached 81" 30', steering due north along Spitzbergen, until he proved that course to be impossible. The next year he started out again, with the intent, we presume, to accomplish indirectly what he had failed to do directly ; at least, on this voyage he stood to the north-east, but got only to 75° N. Once more, in the suc- ceeding year, he tried the same course, but meeting with heavy ice, he turned about and sailed toward the west, and, reaching the American coast, began anew the search for a north-west pas- sage. He did not find that, but he found something better; he discovered New York Bay and the Hudson Eiver, and then, needing to be reprovisioned, sailed for home. Returning in 1610 — his fourth voyage — he directed his course farther north, struck the straits, and sailed through to the mag- nificent bay, both of which waters bear his name. On the great bay he sailed several hundred miles, farther to the west than any one had yet penetrated, and wintered on an island in its mouth — Southampton Island ; and then tried again, in the spring, to find HENRY HUDSON. 31 ilBNBY UaUBON. tbe long-sought passage to the Pacitic. But the long cold winter, with insufficient food, had told on the moral as well as physical condition of the men, the hardier portion of whom were com- pletely demoralized, and finally mutinied against any further de- tention in these Western waters. The end of this noble man was sad indeed: with his son and several sick sailors he was turned adrift in an open boat, while the mutinous crew took possession of the vessel and stores. One noble-hearted, faithful man, John King, the ship's carpenter, voluntarily accompanied him, and shared his fate. The ringleader of the mutinous crew, with five others, was killed by the natives : several others died, some of starvation ; and the rest managed to get the ship back to England ; but Henry Hudson, with his seven companions, was never heard of more. As the sad story finally leaked out, there arose, mingled with pity for Hudson's fate, and indignation against the mutineers, a buoyant feeling of expectancy over the great discoveries which had been made. It was now confidently believed that the pas- sage was absolutely found, that it was only necessary to sail on and on through the water which we now know to be a bay, to reach the China Seas. In consequence of this impression, the next few years saw several other voyagers sailing for " Hudson's great sea," in the pursuit of which several minor discoveries were achieved. Fox Channel, Sir Thomas Kowe's "Welcome, and 32 ARCTIC EXI'ERIENCES. Other waters were partially explored ; the excitement was kept up to an exceptionally high tone ; and this prolific period culminated in the discovery of the great bay to the north of Davis Strait by William Baffin in 1616. lie explored the western coast of this water to the mouth of Lancaster Sound, and none went farther than he to the north-west for another half-century. The hopes and expectations which the discovery of Hudson's Bay had excited finally faded, until anticipation was extinguish- ed by the ever-recurring fact that all the discoverers eventually came back to England, and, whatever else they found, they did not find a practicable passage to the Indies. In addition to these rear: -T; > enterprise was now in a measure directed to the coloni- zation of the Atlantic coast, now within the limits of the United Slates; and though voyages continued to be made, both to the north-east and the north-west, and in the former direction many sledge expeditions were planned, yet no important discovery for many years again aroused the enthusiasm of the English nation. RUSSIAN EXPLORERS. During this time the Russians were particularly active in their scientific experiments upon the variation of the magnetic needle, and in the examination of other phenomena in such portions of the Arctic regions as lay accessible to them. The most enduring results obtained by the Russians in the early part of the eight- eenth century was achieved by Vitus Behring, a captain in the Russian Navy, who, for his tried courage and skillful seamanship, was appointed by Peter the Great to the command of a voyage of discovery. In 1728 he explored the northern coasts of Kanit- schatka as far north as 67° 18', thus making the discovery of the straits which separate Asia from America, previous to which, the impression prevailed that the continents were there united. But it was still uncertain whether the land to the east of the straits was a part of the main-land, or only islands scattered along the coast. To determine this, in 1741 he sailed from Okhotsk, intend- ing to explore the American coast ; he twice made the land, but was driven back by violent storms, and at last he was cast upon a desolate ice-covered island, since named for him, where he died. The crew managed to subsist with the aid derived from the wrecked vessel, out of which, in the spring, they built a small sailing craft, and in August reached the coast of Kamtschatka; GOVERNMENT REWARDS OFFERED. 33 BABOK VON WBiLNUEL. but the gallant Behring lives only in the straits and island which preserve his name. Other Russian expeditions followed, among which was that of Shalaeloff in 1760, who died of starvation, and some others, which accomplished little, concluding this series with the important sledge journey of Baron Von Wrangel and Anjou in 1820-23, which had a marked influence upon the opinions and subsequent course adopted by nearly all of the succeeding British explorers. These intelligent and persevering Russians attained to lat 70° 51' N., long. 155° 25' W., then met the open sea, for which they were not prepared. Thus, in all the expeditions so far sent out in ships, the way had been barred at different points by impenetrable ice, while those who had essayed the trans-gla- cial plan had been met with interposing arms of the sea which as effectively stayed their progress. GOVERNMENT REWARDS OFFERED. As early as 1743 the British Parliament had offered £20,000 for the discovery of a passage by the Hudson Bay route, which 3 84 AKCTIC EXl'EKIEXCES. Stimulated once more the flagging enthusiasm, and several voy- agers sailed ; some through Behring Strait to the east, hoping thus to reaeh Hudson Bay by the imaginary oeean, vvhieh then existed in the brains of nearly all Aretie explorers. Between 1769 and 1772, Ilearne made three land trips, on the last of whieh he discovered the Coppermine Kiver, which he traced to its sourv 3. The next year Captain Phipps, afterward Lord Mulgrave, was sent out by the Admiralty, with orders to make for the North Pole — this object to take precedence of all others; meteorological, magnetical, and other scientific observa- tions were also to be made objects of investigation ; and thereaf- ter geographical science became a successful rival to the mercan- tile spirit, which had hitherto dictated the instructions given in previous expeditions, Phipps went the Spitzbcrgen route, but reached only 80° 48' — not as far north as Hudson attained sixty- six years before. Undiscouraged, the British Parliament again took up the sub- ject, and, though now involved in the preliminary quarrel which resulted in the loss of her American colonies, her ministry had still eyes, ears, and thoughts for discoveries in the far North. In 1776 the British Government offered, in addition to the standing reward of £20,000 for the actual discovery of the pole, the same sum for any through route, and £5000 to any one who should reach to within one degree of the pole. In the mean time, the famous Captain Cook was ordered to the search for the pole. lie went through Behring Strait, and got only to 70° 45'. A vessel had gone out to Baffin Bay in the hope of meeting him, but, as is well known, his voyage terminated fatally to himself, and unsuccessfully as regarded the object in view. The next important discovery was that of the Mackenzie River in 1789. . ■ EARLY AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. In the American colonies, too, emulation was ripe, though the means of fitting out large expeditions did not exist; but as early as 1754 we find that private enterprise was directed to the same point of attraction.' In the Qentleman^s Magazine of that year is an account of the voyages of the Jr/zo, of Philadelphia. Captain Charles Swayne had made two voyages in search of a north-west THE WIIALEU SCUUKSBY. f^ f)ai?sage, obtaining valuable information of the coast of Labrador and Hudson Bay, but failing to get north of hit. f>r>^ In 1772 some gentlemen in Virginia, moved by the same desire whieh had actuated the enterprise of the civilized world for cen- turies, fitted out the brig iJi/igence, under the command of Captain Wilder, who also made Hudson Bay, and sailed about its broad waters north and west, thinking to find a passage, and believing there was one ; but, repelled by the ice, he retreated, and afterward made the latitude of 69° IT in Davis Strait. THE WHALKK SCORESBY. The name of William Scoresby may justly be considered as the connecting link between the old explorers — the adventures made almost solely in the interest of commerce, and those more liberal modern enterprises, conducted in the spirit of the newly- dawning scientific era. And yet Scoresby's name scarcely figures, even incidentally, in any general record of Arctic heroes, for the simple reason that the British Government, though availing itself of his knowledge and experience, was unwilling to confer its honors on any except those of the Koyal Navy. William Scoresby, though an eminently learned and scientific man, was for many years known only as a successful and enter- prising whaler. It was on one of these voyages, in the year 1806, while lying-to for whales in what is known as the "Greenland Seas," on the east side of Greenland, ii\ lat. 78° 46' N., that he thought that he would venture to deviate from the usual whale- man's track, and penetrate, if possible, to the " Polar Sea," in which he fully believed. Spreading nis sails, and with a good wind, he soon left the whaling fleet behind him, and shortly after encountered the heavy ice which he knew he must penetrate to reach the open water beyond. With consummate skill, tact, and boldness he bored his way through the pack-ice, and, undismayed at the novelty of his position, separated from his companion ves- sels; with the great ice barrier between him and civilization, he bravely pushed on toward the north, where his hopes were grati' fied, and his opinions confirmed, by finding a "great openness or sea of water." He reached the high latitude of «1° 30' N., 19° E. long., seas ne er before visited by whalemen, and never previous- ly attained in either hemisphere except by Hudson. Parry after- S6 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. WILLIAM HUUUiClillV. ward went higher in his sledge journey, but not in a sailing ves- sel. But Scoresby was something more than a whaler. On each voyage he added something to accurate geographical knowledge by surveying the coast and islands which he visited, and by him a large portion of the eastern coast of Greenland was first accu- rately traced, and prominent points named. lie corrected the ther- mometrical statements and other incorrect so-called scientific in- formation of his day; he experimented on the temperature of deep-sea water, on terrestrial magnetism, and other natural phe- nomena, and published many interesting papers relating to the meteorology and zoology of the Arctic regions. THE WHALER SCORESBY. 37 Ross and Franklin had both dilated upon the curious phenom- enon of red snow observed in their Arctic voyages ; and in 1828 Scoresby analyzed a portion of the colored snow of Greenland, and found that the coloring matter consisted of exceedingly mi- nute marine infusoria. As early as 1814 he had published a paper on the " Polar Ice," including a "Project for reaching the North Pole." He made fifteen voyages, in which he touched 80° N., the results of which were made public in a book entitled the "Arctic Regions," in 1816. At this time he was considered by all the intelligent friends of Arctic exploration as an authority upon all matters connected with the Polar region. It was out of a correspondence which he held with Sir Joseph Banks in 1817, that was evolved the combination of events which led to the equipment of those mixed land and water explorations commanded by Parry, Ross, and Franklin. The eminent French savant, M. de la Roquette, in his memoirs of the latter, addressed to the Geographical Society of France, says : " In spite of previous discoveries, the subject of Arctic ex- plorations was again almost forgotten, when an English rhaler, an intelligent and intrepid sailor, who had for many years navi- gated the Greenland seas, demonstrated the possibility of effecting a per-glacial voyage across to the Pacific. In a letter written by him to Sir Joseph Banks, this ivlialer^ Scoresby the younger, nar- rated a remarkable circumstance which he had witnessed during his last voyage in 1817." (This statement referred to a great dis- ruption or removal of the usual ice barrier, which occurred in 1816-17, in the parallel of the island of Jan Mayen, and near the eastern coast of Greenland.) " This information, a similar condition of the ice occurring also in 1806, awakened in England the long-dormant projects for attain- ing the North Pole, and for opening up the north-west passage." In 1835 Sir John Ross made the same admissions in the preface to a work on his own voyages, observing, "that a sort of renais- sance of public interest in Arctic affairs had followed upon the publication of Scoresby's views, as given to Sir Joseph Banks." From one of these letters we extract the following : "Scoresby says: 'I mentioned the fact of a large body of the usual ices having disappeared out of the Greenland Sea, and the consequent openness of the navigation toward the west, whereby 38 •• ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. I was enabled to penetrate, within sight of the east coast of Green- land, to a meridian which had been usually considered quite inac- cessible. After some account of the state and confitruration of the ice, and our progress among it, I proceeded to remark on the facilities which on this occasion were presented for making re- searches in these interesting regions, * * * toward decidinrj wJieth- er or not a navinatiori into the Pacific, either by a north-east or north- west passage, existed. I also expressed a wish to be employed in such researches through a series of voyages, that the most favor- able seasons might be improved to the best advantage, and that the most complete investigation might be accomj)]ished ; and, by the way of avoiding unnecessary expense, I proposed to combine the object of the whale-fishery with that of discovery, on every occasion when the situation of the ice was unfavorable for scien- tific research. Since no one can possibly state, from observation of the ice in any one season, what opportunity may occur on a subsequent occasion, it would be well to have this reserve bal- ing) for the reduction of the expenditure, in the event of the op- portunity for discovery failing.' " This was evidently too sensible an idea to penetrate the brains of the British Naval Office. Seven weeks after this letter was written, a notice appeared in the public prints of the day, " that, owing to the statements of the Greenland captains respecting the diminution of the Polar ice, the Royal Society had applied to ministers to send out vessels in the Polar Seas." It was reasonably expected by Scoresby and his friends that he would have been appointed to the command, if an expedition was planned; but red tape prevailed: the Admiralty were fixed in their opinion that none but officers of the Eoyal Navy were capable of commanding an exploring expedition. Scoresby was offered a subordinate position ; but this he naturally refused to accept. In August the British expedition entered Lancaster Sound, and sailed up it for sixty miles, when they thought they sa^v land at the end, and thence concluded it to be a bay. The weather was bad, which prevented their examining its contour more closely, and they put about, exploring the sound to the south and east, and then returned to England in October of the same year. Captain Ross, who also visited the sound, likewise thought it a bay, but some of his officers, including Parry, were of a different CAPTAIN PARRY. 39 opinion, and, on the return of the expedition to England, the question of " sou-^d" or " bay " was the topic of much interested and not a little ; -gry discussion. The English public were dis- satisfied, and Parry's followers being the more energetic party, aided him in preparing a private expedition to go back, and, by actual survey, to settle the point. He sailed in May, 1819, in the Uecla, with a consort, the Oriper^ under command of Lieutenant Lyon ; these vessels carried a com- bined crew of ninety-four men, and were furnished with provisions CAPTAIN PAREY, for two years. On their way up Baffin Bay, they encountered ice on the 18th of June, and were temporarily "beset" on the 25th ; but a lead opening, they reached Lancaster Sound on the 30th of July, but not without trouble, though they were fortunate enough, early in August, to find the sound free, and a channel, which they followed to the mouth of Barrow Strait, thus finally exploding the idea of its being a bay. The strait Parry entered and sailed through as far as Prince Regent Inlet, which, with many other capes, points, bays, headlands, and so forth, he named. As he approached the magnetic pole, he found his compasses of 40 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. but little use, so great was the dip of the needle. The hopes of officers and crew were greatly excited, and when, after encount- ering immense difficulties, he, on September 4, crossed the one hundred and thirteenth degree of west longitude, he told the men that the Ilecla had earned the reward of £5000 offered by the Gov- ernment, the enthusiasm knew no bounds. Two weeks later he was beset ; but the crew cut a passage through the ice till a lead was reached, and the party attained Melville Island in safety. Here Parry wintered, using every opportunity to explore the country in different directions, and adding largely to the topo- graphical and hydrographical knowledge of the day respecting that region of country. In June of that year (1820) it was yet very cold ; but a thaw set in early in July, and on the 2d of August the ice broke up and set them at liberty. Two weeks later they were again beset for a time ; but getting clear with great exertions, they started for home, where they were received with hearty welcomes ; and on a report of the discoveries made being published, the utmost satisfaction was expressed both by the Government and the public press. The successes of Parry had, however, but whetted the public appetite, and the next year he sailed again, with instructions to go to Kepulse Bay by the way of Hudson Strait, with the hope that thus the dangerous encounters with the "middle ice" might be avoided. On this occasion he again sailed in the Ilecla, with the Fury as consort, of which Captain Lyon was in com- mand. They reached the terminus of Hudson Strait in August, 1821, and from there sailed north to Fox Channel, and thence to Repulse Bay, in hopes of finding an outlet to the north or west, and for that purpose made careful and extensive explora- tions; but were early beset in the ice, and in September cut a dock for the vessels in a heavy floe, from which they were not released until the next July. During the winter they occupied the time in sledge journeys of exploration, and in recording the results of their scientific experiments. They went carefully over the course, including Lyon Inlet, then through Fox Channel to the strait uniting the latter with Boothia Gulf, naming the strait Fury and Hccla. They reached the middle of these straits in September, 1822. Here they wintered, remaining until August, 1823, when they returned to England. REMARKABLE LAND JOURNEYS. 41 EXPLORATIONS CONDUCTED ON FOOT. During the period in which Parry had made two voyages, the other expedition (overland), which had started in September, 1819, from York Factory, on the west side of Hudson Bay, and which was expected to explore the coast from the Coppermine River east, was undergoing a fearful experience. The leaders were Sir John Franklin (then lieutenant), and Dr. Richardson. There were also two midshipmen, Messrs. Hood and Back (afterward Sir George), and a seaman named Hepburn. It had been arranged in England that if Parry made the coast on his first voyage, he was to co-operate with this small but energetic land party. The latter, leaving York Factory in September, after almost un- paralleled suflferings — with cold beyond measurement, for their thermometer was frozen — finally reached Chipewyan, a d6p6t of the Hudson Bay Company, after a foot journey of eight hundred and fifty-six miles! Resting here for a while in Jul}', 1820, they traveled to Fort Enterprise, where was a small hut containing stores, making five hundred miles more. Here they wintered, while Mr. Back returned to Fort Chipewyan to hurry on supplies for the next season. It was during the absence of Mr. Back that an Iroquois hunt-, in the employment of the party, shot Mid- shipman Hood, with the intention, as Franklin and Richardson supposed, of eating him ; whereupon Dr. Richardson took the re- sponsibility, and deliberately shot the Indian through the head. The hardships which they had endured had reduced their strength of body and mind almost to inanity ; and Mr. Back also suffered great hardships on his journey, but his indomitable will and great physical endurance brought him through, and he reached Fort Enterprise, with supplies of provisions, on the 17th of March, 1821. He traveled eleven hundred miles on this journey, sometimes for two or three days without food, and at night having for covering but one blanket and a deer-skin, the thermometer much of the time registering from 47° to 57° below zero. Mr. Back having rejoined his party with supplies from Fort Chipewyan, they started again from Fort Franklin, where they had halted, dragging their provisions and canoes to the Copper- mine River, eighty miles distant. Embarking in these frail boats, 42 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. they sailed seaward, and reached the coast of what they supposed to be the sea about the middle of July. They then turned to the east, sailing and paddling alternately, as circumstances required, for five hundred and fifty miles — all the time thinking they were going toward the Arctic Ocean : at the end of that time they found they had only been navigating an immense bay. Con- vinced at last of this, on reaching Dease Strait they called the headland Cape Tuiuuguiij, auu sadly prepared to retrace their course. A more disappointed party could scarcely be imagined. To add to their perplexity, they found they had only food for a few days, and no signs of animal life which promised them a sub- stitute. However, they manfully set to work and built two ca- noes, with which they entered Hood River a short distance west of Point Turnagain. Food failing them, they were reduced to the utmost extremity, and became so weak in consequence that they abandoned the canoes they had con.structed, being unable to drag them around certain rapids which they encountered. Some days they managed to gather a little rock-tripe or moss, and finally ate their old shoes and scraps of leather attached to other articles. Two of their number died of exhaustion ; but at last, when all were nearly at the point of death from starvation, their eyes were cheered by the sight of York Factory, from which they had started out three years before, having in their absence traveled over fifty-five hundred miles — notable specimens of what the human frame, when controlled by an intelligent will, is capa- ble of enduring. They brought up at this haven of rest in July, 1823, and soon after returned to England. COMBINED SEA AND LAND EXPLORATIONS. A few months only elapsed before another expedition was pro- posed, on a larger scale than any which had yet been projected. This consisted of four divisions. One vessel, under Parry, was destined for Prince Regent In- let, which it was thought opened at the south. The second party, under Franklin, was ordered to go down the Mackenzie River to the sea, and then divide, part to travel to the eastward, and. the others with Franklin to the westward until they struck Behring Strait. Captain Beechey was ordered to sail round Cape Horn .to Behring Strait, and thence to make Kotzebue Sound, and wait there for Franklin. The fourth party, 'inder Captain Lyon, COMBINED SEA AND LAND EXPLORATIONS. 4$ in the Griper, was to go to the south of Southampton Island, up Rowe's Welcome to Repulse Bay, then cross Melville Isthmus to Point Turnagain. The object of the whole expedition being to secure, if possible, a thorough exploration of the space between the eastern and western shores of the North American continent, and the correct configuration of its northern boundary, the ex- pedition, therefore, contemplated and was prepared for both land and sea travel. Captain Lyon's part was soon finished. His vessel was twice nearly wrecked, and he abandoned the further pursuit eighty miles from Repulse Bay. Parry sailed in May, 1824, in the Funj, with the Ileda as con- sort, and reached Lancaster Sound ; but was there caught in the ice and had to winter at Port Bo wen. The Furi/ was afterward wrecked, and Parry took both crews back to England in the Ilecla. Franklin's party had a more extended service. With him was Dr. Richardson, Lieutenant Back, and Messrs. Kendall and Drum- mond, the latter a naturalist of reputation. They got to Fort Chipewyan in July, 1825, and from there went to the Great Bear Lake to winter. From thence, in pursuance of orders, Franklin undertook the descent of the Mackenzie River, which he accom- plished, reaching the sea at lat. 69° 14' N., long. 135° 57' W., a dis- tance of one thousand and forty-five miles. On the 28th of June, 1826, the whole remaining portion of Franklin's party also went down the river to its mouth, and there separated, Franklin going to the west, and Dr. Richardson to the east. The former skirted the coast, which trended to the north- north-west till he reached lat. 70° 24', and long. 149° 39' W. Here his further progress was barred, and he named the place Return Reef. The weather was excessively bad, and, as usual, provisions were short. He was also unaware of the fact that Captain Beechey was waiting for him only one hundred and forty -six miles farther west; for Beechey, in the Blossom, had passed Behring Strait, had gone to Chamisso Island, in Kotze- bue Sound, where, getting no information of Franklin, he went north -north -east to Point Barrow, and from there, forwarding boat parties, he awaited their return until it became dangerously late in the season, when he put off for winter-quarters in Petro- paulovski. One of his boat parties returned in time to accom- 44 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. pany him; the other proceeded to the south-east (overland) to the posts of the Hudson Bay Company. In the mean time Franklin returned to the Mackenzie, hav- ing explored the whole coast for three hundred and seventy-four miles to the north-north-west, wLich in its intricacies involved, in coming and going, over two thousand miles. Dr. Kichardson had during the time made an extended jour- ney to the east, but without developing any special points of in- terest. The whole expclition once more met and wintered at Great Bear Lake, where they established a series of valuable observa- tions on terrestrial magnetism. And it was a curious incident that Parry's quarters, at only an interval of one year apart, were situated at the oppos'te side of the magnetic pole, just eight hun- dred and fifty-five miles distant, bot^ parties making the same observations. And thus, while the needle at Port Bowen was regularly increasing its western direction, that at Fort Franklin, pointing directly toward it, was increasing its easterly — a beauti- ful and conclusive proof of solar influence upon the daily varia- tion. Captain Beechey returned to his appointed rendezvous the succeeding year ; but he and Franklin never again met. THE ERA OF MODERN DISCOVERIES. In 1818 commenced what may be called the modern era of Arctic exploration, primarily induced, as we have shown, by the writings and influence of Scoresby, and aided to the last by Sir John Barrow, the faithful advocate of Arctic explorations. In this year two expeditions were fitted out by the British Govern- ment, the one under Captain Eoss and Lieutenant Parry, the oth- er under Captain Buchan and Lieutenant (afterward Sir John) Franklin, the last being more particularly devoted to scientific investigations. The orders of the scientific party were to go, between Spitz- bergen and Greenland, as far north as possible. Here they found the temperature far milder than they expected, and attained the highest latitude yet reached ; but it was not without great dan- ger — the ice floes surrounded them on all sides, and one ship, the Dorothea, was completely shattered. Nevertheless the philosoph- ical experiments, on the elliptical figure of the earth especially, were conducted with very interesting results; also experiments PARRY'S DRIFT. 45 in refraction and magnetic phenomena. In April they started to return, and were beset with ice not far from Waggat Isl- and, but cleared themselves, and made for the coast of Green- land. parry's drift. The year 1827 saw Captain Parry at the head of another expe- dition destined for the north shore of Spitzbergen, supplied with two well-built covered boats, so arranged that they could be put on runners, and thus dragged as a sledge where they could not be floated. Arrived at Spitzbergen, he started on the ice, pro- vided with food estimated for seventy -one days; but the journey was not to prove so easy in reality as it did in the instructions of the Naval Office. First, they were impeded with thin ice, through which the boat could not sail, and which was not strong enough to travel over; next, it was rough ice, which threatened contin- ually to rack the sledge-runners to pieces — and worse, snow- blindness attacked nearly the whole party. This evil they en- deavored to circumvent by abandoning day travel entirely, and moving forward only at night — a night, however, which was by no means dark in that latitude in summer. Considering the outlay of exertion, the gains appeared insig- nificant. The first five days they had made only ten miles. They had hoped this time surely to reach the Pole; but appre- ciating the difficulty with every step, the leading officers agreed with Parry that they would be content could tbey make the eighty-third parallel ; but in their problem was an unknown quan- tity which they had not taken into the account. Unperceived by them for a while, and still longer unaccounted for, was the strange fact that, no matter how many miles they traveled toward the north, at each observation they found themselves steadily moving south. The ice was moving beneath them, carrying them south with every hour. This was an obstacle which no human inge- nuity could remove. At 82° 45' they gave up the contest, find- ing that, though they had traveled nearly three hundred miles over ice and through water, they were yet but one hundred and seventy-two miles from the Hecla. Burying their great hopes in a sad but blameless failure, they got back to the ship on the 21st of August, and returned to England. It was no wonder that the zeal of the Government officers be- 46 ARCTIC EXI'EKIENCES. gan to flag under such repeated disappointments, and that in consequence we find that the next serious effort was made under the auspices and with the means of a private enthusiast. STEAM FIRST USED IX THE ARCTIC SEAS. Sir Felix Booth, an ardent friend of Arctic exploration, fitted out the Victory, putting her under the command of Captain John Ross, who was accompanied by his nephew, Sir James Koss. With BIB JOHN BOSB. the Victory a new element appears, hitherto a stranger to Arctic waters — steam. The Victory was fitted with a steam boiler, to be "'!sed in calm weather." The expectation still was that a north-west passage could be made through Prince Regent Inlet. The Victory soiled in May, 1829, and reached the inlet on the 9th of August, and came up with the wreck of the Fury on the 12th ; on the 15th they got to "Parry's farthest;" here they en- SEVEN MILES IN TVVO YEARS! 47 countered serious difficulty with ice, but, persevering, managed to work along three hundred miles on a coast-line not hitherto ex- plored, reaching to within two hundred miles of the extreme point reached by Franklin on his last expedition. Ilere the shore trended to the west, and though now closed by ice, Ross thought that these two hundred miles would be navi- gable at some time of the year, and he would await his oppor- tunity; but the present season was now over. October had overtaken them, and on the 7th inst. they went into winter- quarters at what is now known as Felix Harbor. There ice fetters held them fast for eleven months. Not until Septem- ber, 1830, did they get under way, and then only made tliree miles, when they were again beset, and obliged to winter until August, 1831, when they made /owr miles more; and on the 27th of September they were once more fast for the season. Seven miles in two years ! -:. - . ; >, :, ROSS KEACHES THE MAGNETIC POLE. Ross could stand that rate no longer. In April of 1832 his nephew, James C. Ross, made a sledge excursion to the west, and reached and fixed the magnetic pole in lat. 70° 5' 17" N,, long. 96° 46' 45" W. But two Arctic winters had told upon the health of the crew ; the scurvy broke out, and with it the despondency which usually accompanies, and is often the precursor of, that disease. The ship was obliged to be abandoned, and the whole company started east, taking their boats on sledges. Their first objective point was the wreck of the Fury^ where at least some shelter could be ob- tained, and also material, and possibly stores; they endured ter- rible hardships on the way, but managed to get there on the 1st of July, but were too much reduced to go farther at that time, and before they were recuperated sufficiently, winter weather was upon them, and at Fury beach they were compelled to remain through the season of 1832-33. The suffering among all parties, especially the crew, was intense ; many were fearfully sick, and several died. With the opening of early summer they made des- perate efforts, and on July 8 they reached the open sea. Here they launched their boats, which they had dragged much of the way, trusting that they might be seen and relieved by some whaler. This fortunately happened ; they were picked up on the 48 ARCTIC EXl'EUIENCES. 26th of August, 1833, by Captain Humphreys, of the Isabella. Though he willingly received them on board, he did not recog- nize the identity of Ross, nor at first believe their story: he "thought Captain Ross's party had all been dead for two years," but was finally convinced of his error, and in September landed them at the Orkneys, whence they might get conveyance to En- gland. They had been absent four years, from 1829 to 1833. DISCOVEIty OF GREAT FISH KIVEK. Seven months previous to their rescue and return, Lieutenant Back, accompanied by Dr. King, naturalist, hud left England in search of Ross and his party, and reached Fort Resolution, on Great Bear Lake, in August, and from there went on to Musk Ox Lake, to the north-east. Finding nothing of the parties, they returned to winter at Fort Reliance, suffering much from lack of suflicient food and the intensity of the cold. In April they had just plan- ned a movement to the sea-coast, when they learned of Ross's safety. In June they started on a boat excursion down the Tlikw-ee-choh River, which he called the Great Fish River, since named Back, which they hoped would lead them to the Polar Sea ; and on July 29, after a hard and fatiguing journey of five hundred and thirty miles, they reached the open water, at lat. 67*^ 11' N., long. 94° 30' W. ; but it was not the Polar Ocean. The river they had followed led through a most desolate country : neither trees nor vegetation were visible, except of diminutive Hichens and mosses. But as game was sometimes observed, it is quite possible that in the sheltered valleys, which the rocky bluffs of the river hid from their siorht, the aspect of the country was less forbidding. After exploring the shores for some distance, meeting with many obstacles, they turned back, and after four months of con- tinuous travel reached again Fort Reliance, on Great Bear Lake, in September, and from there returned home in the autumn of 1835. DBASE AND SIMPSON'S EXPLORATIONS. Two years later the Hudson Bay Company sent out two men, Dcase and Simpson, with orders to go down the Mackenzie River to the sea, and then to move along the coast to the west until they reached the point where Beechey had waited for Franklin : DEASE AND MIMI'SONS EXPLORATIONS. 49 this they considered would complete the survey of the north whore of the North American coast. They reached Return lieef (Franklin's farthest west) in July, 1826, and up to this time no one had been beyond this point from the east. They pushed on, and finally got to Point Barrow (Heechey's extreme east), and thus their task was happily completed. On their way they discovered two large rivers, wliich they named respectively the Colville and Garry; then returned to winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake. In June of 1838 Messrs. Dease and Simpson, with others, start- ed again for the north coast, by way of the Coppermine River. intending this time to travel toward the east, but found them- selves stoj)pcd by accumulations of ice. On this the party di- vided : some took sledges and j)roceeded overland. They passed Point Turnagain, the farthest point reached on the west on that route; found Deasc Strait filled with ice, and at the eastern ter- mination of the straits a large, bold headland, and to the north an extensive tract of land, new to explorers, which they named Victoria. There they clambered with great difficulty to the top of a high, ice-bound cape, from which they were surprised to see a broad sea beyond free from ice. Tliey explored forty miles of Victoria Land to the east-north-east, concluding their survey in the summer of 1838. The next year they sailed through Dease Strait, and settled the exact coast-line up to the point which Back reached in 1884, and beyond found that the estuary of Back's, in which they saihd, separates Boothia on the west from the American conti- nent. They almost joined their discoveries to Ross's, and came within ninety miles of the point he had fixed upon as the mag- netic pole. These excursions of Dease and Simpson were among the most useful which had been made, yet their names and labor have been almost completely overshadowed by some who had led much more expensive and sensational expeditions, but who really added little to the general fund of geographical informa- tion. Indeed, all the American coast north was now explored, except that portion lying between Dease and Simpson's ex- treme point west of Boothia and Ross's winter-quarters, on the east of the same land, and that tract between Ross's quarters and the extreme point reached by Parry in 1822, at the entrance of Fury and Hecla straits. 4 50 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. ir. BOOTBIA A PENINSULA OR AN ISLAND? The question now to be settled was this: Could ships pass betweii Boothia and the main-land ? On this parties were formed, and while many book-geographers and parlor-sailors were quite sure that they could, and vehemently argued that " nothing was easier than to sail through Prince llegent Inlet and round the southern coast of Boothia through to tiie north-west," others, and these mostly Arctic travelers, held the matter in much doubt; some affirming that Boothia was a peninsula, and not an island. To settle the point, the Hudson Bay Company, which had now become a steady patron of Arctic explorers, sent out Dr. John Rae in the summer of lb46, he and his party reaching Chester- field Inlet in July of that year. This expedition was prolific of stupid opinions put forth by the British Board of Admiralty, as will be seen by the context. From Chesterfield Inlet Dr. Rae passed on to Repulse Bay, then conveyed his boats to the Gulf of Akole. Being unable to get farther that season, he returned to winter in Repulse Bay; but in April of 18-47 he reached the inlet which Ross had found on a land trip while wintering on the coast of Boothia, and on which occasion the latter had proved the continuity of the coast to that point; and thus, between them, it was proved beyond a doubt that Boothia is joined to the main-land. We said without a doubt, but it was not exactly so. Dr. Rae, in a letter to Charles Dickens, then editor of Ilouscliold Words, and published in vol. x., No. 19, says: "The Esquimaux tracing, or delineation of coast, was entered in the Admiralty charts in dotted lines [indicating doubt], until my survey of eighteen hun- dred and forty -seven, which showed that in all material points the accounts given by the natives were perfectly correct When Sir John Ross wintered three years in Prince Regent Inlet, the natives drew charts of the coast-line to the southward of his posi- tion, and informed him that in that direction tJiere teas no tvater communication leading to the western sea. Sir John Ross's state- ments, founded on those of the natives, were not believed at the Admiralty, nor were my oivn, in eighteen hundred and forty- seven, although / saw the land all the way, and in which I was supported by the Esquimaux information. The authorities at the Admiralty would still have Boothia an island. Last spring FKANKLIN'S LAST EXrEDlTlON. 51 I proved beyond the possibility of a doubt the correctness of my former report, * * * for luliere partien of la'yh standing at home would insist on having nothing hut salt-water, I traveled over a neck of land, or isthmus, sixty miles broad.'"' This was in accordance with the spii'it which treated Baffin Bay as a myth when its ex- istence was first announced by the original discoverer, and which excluded it from the maps until rediscovered by Eoss. It was on the 29ih of May, 1814, that Dr. Rae saw, during a break in the clouds, which seemed to lift during a fearful storm for the very purpose, a headland, which he named Cape Ellice, in lat. 69° 42' N., and 85° 8' W., and which was within ten miles of Fury and llecla straits; and this made the entire survey complete, with the exception of the straits, and they were par- tially known by the accounts of Dease and Simpson as well as Parry. SIR JOHN franklin's LAST EXPEDITION. We now approach the most exciting era of Arctic research. In May of 1845 the far-famed expedition of Sir John Franklin, in the Erebus, with Captain Richard Crozier, in the Terror, start- ed from England — that swarming place of Arctic adventurers. Accompanying them was a tender, which, however, after un- loading her provisions, was sent back from Davis Strait, The Erebus and Terror were supplied with every thing which the ample means of the Government could at that time provide. A long detention was anticipated, and they were fully provisioned for three years. On the 26th of July, 1845, these ships were last seen by civil- ized man. The master of the whaler Prince of Wales, Captain Dannet, met them in lat. 74° 48' N., long. 66° 13' W. They were then moored to an iceberg, apparently waiting for an opportunity to get into Lancaster Sound. This was the final glance of rec- ognition between those brave explorers and the representative sailor of the race to which they belonged — the last intelligence which reached the civilized world for years respecting them. Where they went, how they reached Cape Riley and Beechey Island, and what became of the two noble vessels, is yet a mystery only partially solved. The general instructions of the Admiralty to Franklin direct- ed him to go to Baffin Bay, then through Lancaster Sound, on 52 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. sill JOHN KHANKI.IN. through Barrow Strait, which the Admiralty "thought would be free ;" to Cape Walker, about 98° W. long. ; and then, turning to the south and west, to use his best judgment in getting through to Behring Strait. This course would have led him through Melville, then Parry Sound. Much was expected from this expedition. The previous ex- perience of the commander, and of many of those who accom- panied him, -was such as to inspire the greatest confidence in the results; but when two years had elapsed, and no tidings were received of even the whereabouts of the travelers, anxiety for their safety began to be excited ; and as the winter of 1848 wore FIRST KKLIEF EXPEDITION. 53 away without intelligence, the painful silence became intolerable. Inaction was no longer endurable, and with a bound of enthusi- asm a noble expedition was planned to go for their relief, scarcely any doubt at this time being entertained but that they could be found, and the survivors rescued. FIRST KELIEF EXPEDITION*. Early in the spring of 1848, tiie Plover, Commander Thomas Moore, and the Iltndd, Captain Kellet, started to go by the Behr- ing Strait route to Chamisso Island, in Kotzebue Sound, with orders, if Sir John had not arrived there, to go thence to the east- ward as far as they could in their ships, and then to forward par- ties in boats, in the hope of meeting him. This expedition was accompanied by an amateur Arctic explorer, Mr. Robert Shed- don, in his pleasure-yacht, the Nancy iJaioson. Mr. Sheddon was an active, energetic man, who rendered very acceptable aid to the expedition. Tiiey reached Chamisso Island on the 14th of July, 1849, and with their boats got as far east as Icy Point, and then sent a party forward to try and reach the Mackenzie River. The vessels got north to lat. 72° 51', and to long. 163° 48' W., and were then beset in the ice ; however, they sent out land expeditions, discovered new lands and islands — one large tract of land about lat. 71° 30', long. 175° W. On the 24th of August a portion of the boat expedition returned, report- ing no signs of the lost ; but two whale-boats had still gone on up the Mackenzie River, not intending to return to the ships, but to work homeward by the way of Fort Hope and York Fac- tory. Those who came back had been as far as Dease Inlet. The expedition remained until the summer of 1850, exploring in dif- ferent directions, and the next season Captain Kellet, with th»' Plover, wintered in Grantley Harbor, and the Herald returned home. While these parties had been operating from the Behring Strait side of the continent and toward the north-east, Sir John Richardson, the friend and late fellow-traveler of Franklin, had gone with a land searching expedition down the Mackenzie River toward the Polar Sea, which he reached August 4, 1847, leaving depots of provisions at intervals all along the route, so that if any of the lost party should stray that way they might at least find 54 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. some food to sustain them. They traveled eight hundred miles on this journey. In the summer of 1849 Dr. Sir John Eichard- son returned to England. At or nearly the same time Dr. Eae was exploring the shores of Wollaston Sound, and repeated the exploration in 1850. SIR JAMES HOSS. The third expedition, under Commander Sir James Ross, left England on the 12th of May, 1848, for the express purpose of searching the south side of Lancaster Sound to Cape York, and then, if nothing was found, to cross the mouth of Prince Regent Inlet, which they did, wintering at Leopold Harbor. The North Star, a transport ship, also followed in the summer of 1849, with stores for Sir James Ross, and wintered at the head of Wosten- holm Sound, in hit. 76° 33', the farthest north in that direction any English vessel had then ventured, returning to England the next September. In the spring of 1849 Sir James Ross extended his search to the shores of North Somerset, lat. 72° 38' N., long. 95° 40' W.; and though he found not Sir John Franklin, he discovered the fact that North Somerset and Boothia were united by a narrow isth- mus ; he also explored part of the shore north of Barrow Strait, and both sides of Prince Regent Inlet; but all the evidence col- lected was negative as to those parts having been visited by Franklin. lie, too, returned to England in November, 1849. As the various searching parties reached home, all with the same tale of ill success, the heart of the British public was chilled with the growing certainty that serious disaster must have over- taken the unfortunate Franklin. And in this the interest and sympathy of all intelligent persons in the United States, and we may add the civilized world, was deeply aroused. SPECULATIONS ON FRANKLIN'S COURSE. Speculation was rife conjecturing what possible course he could have taken to thus elude the search of so many indefatigable seekers; and, finally, the opinion worked uppermost, at least in England, that he was probably ice-bound among some of the many small islands west of Melville Island. A GLORIOUS SPECTACLE. §5 REWARD OFFERED BY THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT. In March of 18i9 the British Government offered a reward of £20,000 to any private exploring party, belonging to any nation, which should render efficient aid to the lost wanderers. Lady Franklin at the same time sent a large supply of coals and food, which were placed at Cape Ilay, on the south side of Lancaster Sound, with the merest chance that some survivor might wander to that vicinity. A GLORIOUS SPECTACLE. Had some intelligent inhabitant from another sphere ap- proached our globe in the direction of the North Pole in the year 1850, a sublime spectacle would have met his vision, and one which would have given the strange visitant an impression that the human race was endowed with the keenest sympathies and the noblest sentiments. No less than twelve vessels, besides sledge and boat parties, led by such men as Koss, liae, Collinson. M'Clure, Osborne, Austin, Ommany, Penny, Forsyth, and De Haven, with many as noble companions, might have been seen all wending their way over the land and ice and snow, and through the waters of the Arctic regions, in search of a lost broth- er! Surely, if there was ever an exemplification of the human- izing effects of scientific pursuits, we have it in this evidence of chivalrous self-sacrifice. Volunteers had sprung to the rescue on the first intimation from the Government that relieving parties would be organized, and in the year named Great Britain had eight different expeditions abroad in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions. Dr. Rae was instructed to go farther north than he had yet been ; to get, if he could, to Banks's Island, and also to Cape Walker, on the north side of Victoria Land ; and at the same time two small parties were to follow the main-land west to Point Bar- row — one by the Mackenzie River, and the other by the Colville. Then there was the Behring Strait expedition, consisting of the Enterprise, under Captain Collinson, and the Investigator, with M'Clure. These were expected to keep together, sailing to the eastward as far as they could, with special instructions to make friends of the natives, with the view of learning from the Esqui- maux if they had any knowledge of the missing party. They 56 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. were also ordered to place caches in all suitable places, and par- ticularly warned against allowing their vessels to get beset in the ice. The Plover, it will be remembered, was still on the Pacific side, and all three were well provisioned, and officered by capable and determined men. On the other side of the continent, bound for Baffin Bay, was Captain Austin with the Resolute, Captain Ommany in the Assist- ance, Lieutenants Cator and Osborne with the Pioneer and Intrepid — the two latter being screw-propellers. These all sailed in the spring of 1850. All thus far named were Government vessels. Then there was raised and fitted out by public subscription the schooner Felix, with a small tender, the J/ary, under Captain (Sir John) Koss. He started in April, and was provisioned for eighteen months, expecting to take, as he did, an entirely different course from the rest — going b, Cape Ilotham, on the west-side entrance of Wel- lington Channe.. and intending to search all the headlands west to Banks's Land; 'hen, unless he was happily successful, he was to send back the tender, and go on himself in the Felix, and to win- ter as far west as he could get. LADY FRANKLIN. Lady Franklin also fitted out a vessel, bearing her own name and title, officered by Captain Penny, having the brig SojAia in company. Captain Penny had no positive orders as to his course, which was left entirely to his own judgment. Lady Franklin also bore a considerable portion of the expense of fitting out the Prince Albert, commanded by Captain Charles Forsyth, who was accompanied by Mr. W. P. Snow, of New York, who went to England for that purpose — he as well as the commander being a volunteer in the humane work. They went to the shores of Prince Eegent Inlet and the Gulf of Boothia. They also sent out overland parties to explore the west; side of Boothia to Dease and Simpson straits. This expedition sailed in June of 1850. THE FIRST AMERICAN EXPEDITION. The first American expedition recognized by the Government was chiefly indebted, both for vessels and equipment, to the lib- erality of Mr. Henry Grinnell, a merchant of New York — the FIKST EVIDENCES OF THE MISSING rAKTY. 57 United States Naval Department furnishing an able commander for the two vessels, Advance and Rescue, in the person of Lieu- tenant De Haven. This expedition sailed from New York on the 2-ith of May, 185U. De Haven's plan was to reach, if pos- sible, Banks's Land and Melville Island, and then to use his dis- cretion, as events indicated, as to going west or north. DISCOVERIES AT CAPE RILEY. Of all these parties, Captain Ommany was the first to find any evidences of the missing party. At Cape Riley, August 23, 1850, he came upon the site of what had evidently been an encamp- ment, namely, the stone flooring of a tent, a quantity of birds' AUVAJiOB AND EE80LB. bones, and the indubitable proofs of civilization in a number of empty meat-canisters, with other small relics; and this occurred in the fifth year since Sir John bad been absent and unreported. DISCOVERIES AT BEECHEY ISLAND. At Beechey Island, three miles west of Cape Riley, at the en- trance of Wellington Channel, Lieutenant Osborne found the first winter-quarters of the missing expedition. First, there was an embankment for a house, with carpenters' and armorers' work- shops, the inevitable empty meat-cans, and, most conclusive of all, the graves of three men belonging to the Erebus and Terror 58 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. These bore the date of the winter of 1845-46. Farther inland on the island were found some articles of wearing apparel. Lieutenant De Haven arrived at Beechey Island on August 25, just two days after Lieutenant Osborne, and continued the search, as did also Captain Penny and the officers of the Prime Albert. TEN EXPLORING VESSELS MEET. On the 27th of August, 1850, there met at Beechey Island, as if drawn by an irresistible instinct, ten of the searching vessels. Besides those already named, were Sir John Ross, Austin, and AUOTIO DISOOVEBY BIIII'B. M'Clintock. But though the debris of Sir John Franklin's party was unmistakable, the searchers looked in vain for any record or document of any description. Nothing was found to indicate which way they had taken when breaking out of their winter- quarters. It was consequently inferred that their departure had been sudden — hastened, perhaps, by some unexpected movement of the ice — though the greater probability is that there was noth- ing special to record, or time would certainly have been found to deposit some writing. DR. KANE'S DISCOVERY. 59 But it is not impossible that some writing, really existing and concealed by the snows and dtbris of five winters, remained un- discovered; for we know that on another occasion, when a party landed from the Prince Albert^ an experienced officer walked over a cairn, much more recently constructed, and mistook it for a part of the cliff. Several vessels lay by Beechey Island during the winter, so as to be ready in the spring t)f 1851 to renew the search, organizing land expeditions in the mean while to explore the shores of Wel- lington Channel, the coasts of Banks's Land, and the waters lead- ins: from Barrow Strait to Melville Island. Different routes were selected, and six hundred and seventy-five miles of new coast- land was discovered and examined. But Franklin was not found. Of all the explorers entering through Baffin Bay, M'Clintock got the farthest west of these expeditions — namely, to 114° 20' W. long., and to 74° 83' N. lat. In this region the animals were so tame that it was quite evident they were unused to the pres- ence of naan, and hence the inference that the natives did not hunt in that direction. The search in Wellington Channel having developed no signs of Franklin's presence, it was now thought by the most experi- enced that he had probably moved toward the south-west (rather late to come to the conclusion that he had gone where he was or- dered). Captain Penny had gone to the northern limits of Wel- lington Channel until he found another stretch of water, which he called Victoria Channel. : ■: ■ DR. KANE's DISCOVERY. .-V' ^ Dr. Kane, who at this time accompanied Lieutenant De Haven as surgeon, discovered what he thought to be traces of heavily- laden sledges, and judged from their direction that P'ranklin had certainly gone north from Cape Riley with his ships on the break- ing up of the ice in 1846, and that through Wellington Channel he had reached the Polar basin, and in this direction the Advance sailed as far as it was possible to proceed. Dr. Kane's daring on this occasion earned for him among the British officers the sobri- quet of the " mad Yankee." But no more relics were discovered at this time, though the record afterward found at Point Victory proved that Kane was right, and that Franklin did attempt that course, but was turned back. 60 AUCriC EXPElilKNCES. • The Advance returned to New York September 30, and the Rescue, under Lieutenant Griffitli, October 2, 1851. When the discoveries on Beechey Ishmd were first made, the Prince Albert had been sent home to carry the news to England, but was almost immediately dispatched back again to search on the shores of Prince Regent Inlet and the neighborhood of Fury Beach and Cape Walker. In the mean while Rae's search, in 1851, had been to the south of the others, and as his search had been very thorough, upon his report, it was concluded that Franklin had at least not been south of the American main-land coast or its connecting peninsulas. RUMORS OF MURDER AND CANNIBALISM. Sir James C. Ross reported a rumor to be current among the Esquimaux to the effect that Franklin's party had been murdered by the natives in Wostenholm Sound, and that cannibalism had been resorted to; and to verif)'^ or dispose of this story. Lady Franklin dispatched the IsaU-l, Commander Inglefield, to the section indicated. He found nothing to confirm the report, and subsequently went up Smith Sound to lat. 78° 28' 21"— one hun- dred and forty miles farther than any one had yet been in that direction. He brought back the encouraging statement that in the highest latitude he had attained he had found the climate more genial, and that the winds from the north were less cold than those from the south. He established the hitherto only suspecied fact of the existence of Kennedy Channel. Dr. Kane's theory in regard to the Wellington Channel route appears to have made a deep impression in England, for we next learn that in April, 1852, Sir Edward Belcher, with five vessels, namely, the Assistance, Resolute, North Star, Pioneer, and Intrepid, with several tenders, were sent out ; the Assistance and Pioneer were especially detailed to proceed to the extreme limits of Wel- lington Channel. In the spring of 1853 Messrs. Henry Grinnell, of New York, and George Peabody, of London (the latter furnished $10,000), with other private parties, fitted out another expedition under the command of Dr. E. K. Kane — he who had been "surgeon, natu- ralist, and historian " of the first Grinnell expedition under De Haven. BKLLOT.-THE HRITISH NAV^VL FlOARD. 0| ' Liidy Franklin, in that year, also sent the liaitksnake and Isa- bel to Behring Strait to assist Captains CoUinson and M'Clure; and Dr. Rae again went to Boothia ; and, lastly, the Ladij Frank- lin at)d Phduix, under Cajjlain Inglefield, was sent to Barrow Strait to aid Sir Edward Belcher. THE NORTH-WEST PROBLEM SOLVED. This year witnessed the actual accomplishment of the passage from the west by M'C'ure, and from the east by Captain Kellet, one of whose officers, Lieutenant Pim, met M'Clure on the ice between the latter's ship and Dealy Island. Twenty days later Captain Collinson came up in bis ship; found the north-west pas- sage solved, and turned to the south-east, completing the passage in another direction. M'Clure, having wintered in 1850 near where the connecting waters could be traced, had, by observation, established the passage as early as October 31 of that year. After reaching England, Captain M'Clure was knighted by the Queen; but Collinson. who equally deserved the credit, received but an honorary medal. BELLOT. • ; Out of the mass of records of suffering, danger, and death which had attended many of the expeditions, the imagination and sentiment of nearly all the Arctic historians have singled out for special sympathy and commiseration the fate of a gallant young Frenchman, named Rene Bellot, who accompanied Cap- tain Kennedy, and afterward Captain Inglefield, as a volunteer explorer; and who, during a violent gale of wind, was blown from a piece of floating ice and drowned, August 18, 1853. On September 4, a boat, containing his chart, journal, and other per- sonal effects, was floated down into the hands of Sir Edward Be' her, by whose party they were picked up and preserved. OBTUSENESS OF THE BRITISH NAVAL BOARD. Of all the inexplicable occurrences with which the history of Arctic expeditions has at times astonished the world, none ap- pears to us so utterly unintelligible as the course of the English Admiralty in its instructions to the rescue parties sent out dur- ing the first six or seven years in search of Sir John Franklin. The amazing fact confronts us that not one of these exploring (J2 AKCTIC KXl'KUIENCEH. parties, ostensibly sent ibr his relief, were directed to that section uf country where he wa^.- most likely to have been found. The Admiralty instructions by which Franklin was to be guided, directed him to go {vide Sec. 5 of the "Instructions") " through Lancaster Sound and Barrow Strait, ivithoui stojtpiny to examine any openinfja to the northward or southward of the latter; but to push on to the westward without loss of time on the parallel of about 7-A|'^ to Cape Walker. From that point we desire that every cllbit be used to penetrate to the southtvard and westward in a course as direct to Behring Strait as the position and extent of the ice, or of land at present unknown, may admit." Yet, in the face of these instructions, not one of all the search- ing expeditions, whether fitted out by the Government, the Hud- son Bay Company, or by private generosity, either from England or America, were directed to Melville Sound the only spot where these instructions could, if followed, have carried him. Almost every other accessible part of the Arctic regions was faithfully scoured from Baffin Bay to Beliring Strait, but not the place to which he was sent ! : .» i PROVIDENTIAL MENTAL COERCION. The extraordinary obtusencss on this point existing among so many men of intelligence, and many also of ])ractical Arctic ex- perience, accustomed to obey Admiralty orders, really looks like one of those Providential coercions by which the minds of men are controlled for purposes not perceived until the time has long passed, with all its exciting discussions and prejudiced interests. We may now possibly perceive a utility in this abnormal con- dition of the reasoning powers which led the British Admiralty continually away from their own instructions to Sir John Frank- lin. '-■■ •- ' '*•■■. Let us suppose that tlie first rescue party had been sent to where he was — south of Melville Sound, and the whole mystery had been at once cleared up. It is quite possible that, there and then, Arctic explorations would have received their quietus for many years, and the splendid series of discoveries which have .since followed by Ross, Parry, Rae, Back, Penny, De Ilaven, Kane, Hayes, Hall, and others — nearly all looking in the wrong direction — would have remained in silent obscurity, their thrill- ing stories all untold. On the theory of an ulterior Providential ANOTUKIi KESCUK SHIP. 6;^ intent can we alono expUiin the singular conduct of the Naval Board. It was not until five years after the question of Franklin's safety was mooted that Dr. Hue penetrated to Cai)e Walker; and beyond that there seemed a fatality, brooding over all the ex- plorers which tabooed the only true and proper course to the south and west of Melville Sound. Every plucc to which he was not sent was thoroughly ransacked; whither he was sent not a single ship or man wa.s ordered by the British Admiralty. The region referred to lies between 103° and 115° W. long., and between the 73° and 74° parallels of N. Int. THE FOULOUN HOPE. After there was none, or the faintest possible liope, that any survivors of the party remained, Lady Franklin succeeded in get- ting the little steam-yacht Fox fitted up for a final conclusive search. This vessel sailed from Aberdeen on the 1st of July, 1857, under the command of Lady Franklin's devoted friend, the experienced Arctic explorer, Captain M'Clintock. He met with a most unparalleled and provoking delay during his first sea- son, by getting entangkj in the pack-ice off Melville Bay, in which he was inclosed, and finally drifted to the vicinity of Disco, and southward. Reaching free water on the 2'ith of April, 1848, after a drift of two hundred and forty-two days, and, as he estimated, eleven hundred and ninety-four geographical miles — the longest and most extraordinary on record until we come to that of Captain Tyson's, whicLi was fifteen hundred miles, and under the greatest contrast of circumstances. The drift of De Ilaven had approach- ed it in length, and that of the abandoned ship Resolute exceeded it in romantic interest; while the ice-floe drift of the captain and crew of the German exploring ship Ilansa alone affords any sort of parallel to the ice-borne waifs of the Polaris. Refitting at Disco, Captain M'Clintock started to recover his lost ground as early as the ice would permit. lie had taken from Goodhavn the tombstone commemorative of Sir John Franklin, which was prepared in New York under Lady Frank- lin's orders, and which had been originally put in charge of Lieu- tenant Hartstene when he went to the relief of Dr. Kane, and which had been left by him in Greenland. 64 AUCTIC KXI'KIUENCES. Proceeding direct to Becclicy Island, Captain M'Clintock erect- ed the monument in a suitable and conspicuous spot, and tlien proceeded, vi . THE DEVOTE^'.S OF SCIENCE. 71 He came and went in a vessel of the British navy, and much the seamen wondered ; and the natives of various half-civilized countries looked on in astonishment, asking, " What could be the use of that old man burying his clocks and pendulums for weeks at a time, when no one but himself and assistant could see them?" But the scientific world has long known that the "crazy man "^ was the renowned Sabine, and that through his pendulum exper- iments was obtained the exact difference of clock rates at the equator and successive parallels of latitude approaching the poles, and thus was secured the necessary data for calculating the ob- lateness of the earth, and sequently accounting for the precession of the equinoxes. ; , SCIENTIFIC DEVOTEES. The ultimate uses of scientific research, under which head may now be classed all Polar explorations, is scarcely ever realized in its fullness even by those most devoted to the pursuit; but it may safely be asserted that no kind or degree of positive knowledge has ever been obtained without yielding valuable fruit — yes, a hundred-fold as compared with the toil of obtaining it; not often, however, does the reward fall to the immediate discoverer, but more frequently on the world at large is the eventual benefit con- ferred. Thus it has been in mathematics, and notably in chem- istry, in geographical research, and in every branch of science. The way is strewn with willing martyrs, whose enthusiasm has been inexplicable to those of cooler temperaments, greater cau- tion, and lacking that insight which enables the scientific devotee to count a perilous or toilsome life-long effort as nothing, if the truth be learned, the experiment succeed, the end be gained, the victory won, and at last the doubters and mockers be over- whelmed with the practical benefits evolved, making the uses of science intelligible even to them. ' i . ARCTIC FAILURES AND SUCCESSES. In regard to Arctic expeditions, though all have so far failed of reaching the geographical pole, yet none have been wholly failures; from each something has been learned, by which suc- ceeding ones have profited. And though to the inconsiderate, who draw their deductions rather from the great hopes of Cap- tain Hall than from the actual results, the Poland expedition has 72 ARCTIC exi'euip:nces. been called a great failure, we think it will be found by all who peruse these pages that, instead of being a failure in any scien- tific sense, it has been a great success, not only in the fact of Cap- tain llall having reached with his ship a higher latitude than any ever yet attained in that direction, but also in the added stock of scientific observations made on board, especially those which show entirely unsuspected conditions of magnetic polarity, as evidenced by the dip, and the amount of variation in the needle in the high latitudes reached by the Polaris, with many other facts of value secured by the Scientific Corps. MODERN FACILITIES. The probability is now becoming every year more apparent that, with the increased resources of modern art, difficulties to which the earlier navigators succumbed will be effectually sur- mounted. The art of preserving, by hermetically sealing, so many varieties of food, has already reduced the dangers of sick- ness in uninhabited regions to its minimum, while each year adds something to the mechanical contrivances which makes an ex- tended residence in the Polar regions less and less hazardous; and there appears no reason why success in the now limited ob- ject of search should not, within a comparatively brief period, perch upon the banner of some succeeding Arctic explorer. The famous navigator Captain Cook thought that no one would ever get nearer to the South Pole than he had done; yet Sir James Ross and our own Wilkes have made his discoveries in- significant by their greater daring. Pigafetta, the companion of Magellan, when he had circumnavigated the globe, thought he laad performed a feat which " would never be repeated by mortal man!" while the larger -brained and larger -hearted Columbus, when be first touched the shore of San Domingo, exclaimed, " El inundo es poco!" — the loorld is Utile J — as if in his soul he longed for greater dangers to overcome, and wider seas over which to sail. This was the true spirit of progress, he the true enthusiast; while the men who are forever asking "What is the use?" are the drag-anchors of society, who, if listened to, which, happily, they are not, would keep the world forever in its swaddling- clothes. - ' . • ' , MODERN CHIVALRY. 73 UNEXPLORED AREA. Of the land surface of the earth, 11,600,000 square miles, or one-seventeenth of the whole, is grouped within the Polar regions — a tract, as the French savant, lieolus, points out, sixty times the area of France. Now, should it not convince the most obtuse that, while scientists remain practically unacquainted with so much of the land surface of the planet, that there must necessa- rily remain many problems, not geographical only, but meteoro- logical, tidal, and especially electrical and magnetic, unanswered? ilow give a true solution of any complex scientific subject, while so many of its component parts remain unknown quantities? That the north Polar region, with its grand focal problem, will yet be conquered by the courage of our navigators and the self- sacrificing spirit of science, during this or a near succeeding gen- eration, we have not the shadow of a doubt. MODERN CHIVALRY. ; . , . There is one other part of this subject which we can not over- look, namely, the development and encouragement of a noble, chiv- alrous sentiment, which in these latter days has but few opportu- nities for exercise. The giants and the dragons are all dead, and the chivalry of the Mediaeval Ages is no longer needed by the gentle dames, who are learning so rapidly how to fight for them- selves. Livingstone and Baker are bound to exhaust Africa, and \vhat is there left? The Arctic regions alone remain a terra in- cognita, so attractive to the knights-errant of science. Where, then, shall the Mr. Greathearts disport themselves, if not in the land of the Aurora? Away with your calculating financiers, who count the cost of every thing to the uttermost farthing; and give place to the royal enthusiasts who are ready once more to try again— ready to attack and demolish the only geographical mvs- tery left to this book-whelmed generation. Do you doubt the courage? do you doubt the chivalry? Hunt up your books of travel, bring out your biographies, and see if you can find a parallel to the courage, skill, endurance, tact, self-control, and Christian trust in an ever-guiding Providence which enabled the chief officer on the ice-floe, Captain Tyson, to maintain, without any positive exhibition of authority, a tranquil, firm, and careful oversight of the eighteen persons providentially 74 ARCmC EXPERIENCES. thrown upon his direction. "He cjuld liave made hi.s own way back to the ship, but he would not desert the women and chil- dren," said one. "There was not much commanding done on the ice; but if we went contrary to what he advised, it always turned out v/rong," said another; and this fur six months, on a voyage of over fifteen hundred miles on broken and shifting ice! "For eighty days the sun did not show itself above the horizon: and when it did, only for a few hours at a time:" denying him- self needful food, tiiat others might not lack; encouraging and supporting the desponding, and with his great j)hysical strength, acquired by long acclimatization, holding the weaker to their places while the winds and waves contended for their hunger- smitten bodies. A PURE AMBITION. No; if it is recorded within the archives of fate that Arctic explorations are to be forever balUed of their great purpose, let us take no hand in crushing out the spirit which inspires them. It is a pure and healthful ambition to add to the world's knowl- edge; to carry the flag of our country where human foot has never trod; to unravel the mystery of ages, and to close up the hopes and eflbrts of the centuries with a successful invasion of those hidden realms which kings and princes have desired to see unveiled. How much nobler and purer is such an ambition than is the unceasing strife for gain, or the petty jealousies of ofBce- hunting, or the belittling pursuit of ease and pleasure, as the end and aim of life? Instead of discouraging and repressing the spirit, of adventure and research, it becomes oyery Government, and brings honor to every people, who systematically cherish and foster it; and that life is not lost which is sacrificed in such pur- suits. E8<)riMAC WOMAN 8 KNIFK. KEFLECTIONS ON THE ICE-FLOE. 75 CHAPTER 11. CAPTAIN Tyson's early arctic experience. (^aptain Tyson's Reflections on the lee-floe. — Nativity. — Early Life. — Ships a.« a Wlialer. — Death of Shipmate. — Arrives at the Greenland Seas. — The "Middle Ice." — The "North Water."— First Sight of Esquimaux. — The Danes in Green- land. — The Devil's Thumb. — Meets De Haven. — Whales and their Haunts. — A prolonged Struggle with a Whale. — Sailors' Tricks. — Cheating the Mollimokes. — Young Tyson volunteers to winter ashore at Cumberland Gulf. — The Pet Seal. — Life Ashore. — Relieved by the True Love. — Is taken to England. — Returns to the Arctic Regions. — Sights tlie abandoned British Ship Resolute. — Witli three Companions boards the Resolute. — Finds Wine in the Glasses. — All have a good Time. — Don the Officers' Uniforms. — Returns to his Ship. — Ships as Second Mate in the George Henry. — As First Officer. — As (^aptain of the Brig (ieorgianu. — Meets Captain Charles F. Hall. -^Witnesses and tries to prevent the Loss of the Rescue. — Sails as Master of the Orray Tnft, of New Bedford. — Of the Antelope. — Sails to Repulse Bay, and takes the first Whale cap urcd in those Waters. — Again meets Captain Hall, and supj)lies him with a Boat. — Peculiar Electrical Phenomena at Repulse Bay. — Sails in tlie Top-sail Schooner Era. — Meets Cap- tain Hall, then "in training ' with the Es(iuimaux. — Log-book Records. — Winters asiiore at Niountelik Harbor. — Removes from New London to Brooklyn. — Sails in the Polaris as Assistant Navigator. '• While floating down on the ice-floe, in the midst of dirt and darkness, hungry and cold, I often thought of friends at home, and wondered how many of them would have been able to en- ff«Te > u .uid and aW4»irer. to Utkv i\w wm\m%tm tin? miMt nf Lahratii^r fimt, and (or that purfMiw Mnk^l v«fy miAf m ikim mm- tmu ^vi^ lf«w Uemion tm ^ lik ni F«bfiiiirjr, tiift ' AAir iMMf mm Ufw wmkM, mm of mut Aifmmtm #ii. Mil wm kmmi m mm. Tliia mmm m Jlg j n ^bm§ it inmnt VaO Mi Mt 4n^NNfMSIIM■l It QM racilflp mi IpiM tHMlMMMItir flf t m MM, mfmm^f «Im9 wiim M ii for iJm §m ^m- pmwm miwiirn 1 1» iht mmmmim of tiii. Whm «• .mm kkmiB m ^ #MNi4. tlM>f«« mmm nwi^tiiii m «f MM MM|r HMa wMy MMHV MB HHB MM! wm MMM , iMt 'il Mlllllii >ii# iMiM iMif tfM m$k M4i>, 1^ »*tib iImi tiiMinHiiiiiiMiiim iMl n 78 ARCTIC EXl'EIilENCES. while, along uie known currents which set to or from the ship, but beyond that we know not its journey, or whither it is carried — wliether it ever comes to rest, or is ceaselessly borne about by the ever-shifting waters, until the continual friction first denudes the body of its covering, and then the bones of its llesli, or, per- hajjs. that it is destined to furnish a ghastly meal to some mon- ster of the deep. ** * A |iluri;{(' anil a •|ila«>h. and oiir fa-k whk o'er; The billiiw^ iuIIimI u« iIkm nillcl iH-rnrc. Aixl nuiny a rude pravcr halliiv«lidt «m1, fliid mrt in vain. CapUun <^imvle |piy« ili«ra aJJ tlM fetxi tliey oimki mrrv, frith whmh liter joyfully n^mmaA U» tkmr tmn vfiiadL ** Kimitiig nn mwI*. w** mmm }cfl (irir iW C«fw«»ti^MHl Uttm. nrnv- m^&K ttm^mkm Ukmd iti tW «^rlv |«rt t4 MmmIi: mnA I r the oil. •' Finding no whale oft' Ucsolution J^Iand, we next bore away ■m,- ' m mmim^ pm 4i mmm Urn md t 80 ARCTIC EXPERIEXCES. York. Sometimes the belt is wider than at other times; tiiere is a difference in seasons. Sometimes it extends as far south as Cape Walsingham. North of this ' middle-ice' is what whale- men call the ' north water,' which is always free in summer. "The whalemen always work their ships up the coast of Greenland between the fast bay-ice and this middle or pack-ice, when making for the north water, because there is less ice there than on the westerly side of Batlin Bay ; then, having reached the north water, and crossed to the west, make their catch of whales, and start to return home in the latter j)art of August or early in September, so as to avoid being caught in the fall 'pack,' V hich at that time of the year is canning down. There are alwjys two packs: one in the spring, cau.sed by the early breaking ice, and the other in th<; full, caused by the breaking up of lh«? ice. which ha« rt' return U) our vnft^. W« fn( flg^ted the land at n -• uUtrji, a settiemint in the MMid^i ofOn-i-uland. The land in Uiat VKrinitv, and, an I afterwaftl dmsitvrrtid. n«»rlv the whole QCMMt, M ktiih and nK)Qnt«tn«NW, |i will ting a numt lUmAatm a^ If I )»A not knovn tiwp het, I mrnld mmmlf kmm ■t it aartiin«^i any inii«iHtj»tK. B«t «• wmm ImhI m^ <«f tliM : Air. puinf iIm akif M tl« iee, «e itnmed^plv *hHH^' mA verjr ■ i w i tly iAvs mam htr«#tlMW Iwiffiiy mm •4' thm Hortli ««• mmm mmLa§ dv«r d» t» M» ptf «• A VIM '. ami diMT irat r mnli mmm mm m mafmamd hf amivp Ami ^r Ofmmm t hmi ifcrayv hmt4 at Hm mmB ^m VBv mHIBVMHHHmK* XBHp HWPBWpWI Jl W^tK^^ HHHr H^Mv alBI^V v^^MH^V i ecially thow who intf.'nd to make it their home — not infre<|ijently marry na tive women : m that at some of tbe mtdementM you may nee a family where the chiklMtii b«ve tbe light, flaxen hair of the Dane, and the dark, bronzed eheek of tbe mUive. Thm mixtan* mainv » mntMm yiiywfnomy. **'n» \^^mA point to which we Muled on rov 6m. royage wm mBmA tkm ' Devil'a flMWib. in Mel vi 1 le Iky. ThM ' Thumb ' m a \mw ptMBied rodt like an nnmewm Bunker lliU Monumfnt, tiMt nmt pwpsMimiMijf to ISA iMiiipit- of s#e or mx iHMMBira fbet; md m n fMiii os m mef bif|k Kikf wkmi, m inymm pmm m pmlkMf mtm or mmm hnimi tm tkmm ^ levtl of ^ nk fliM»l»« ffvat ^fH of ■niimiaim aHmm ^mUmtV^ the 4i gi«iif ^ nwfi w j mumg tlw m k mrnt irtaefc t knmfA Imm, mm ik» xremrmwrnm vimtk mmH A» iMffp dbnat. mA «i 84 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. WHALES AND THEIR HAUNTS. 35 Captain Quayle supplied them with potatoes, and whatever else he could 8pare. I)e Haven returned home that fall. "After parting with the explorers, we took the ice oft" Disco about lat. 69° 14' N., long. 53° 30' W., and endeavored to get west bv taking advantage of every opening in the ice, and soon after sighted the west coast of Davis Strait. Then a thick fog set in on us. At this time we were surrounded by whales ; but it is almost impossible to take them when the ice is loose and broken, on account of their runtiing under the large heavy floes to escape, taking the line with them. But we tried our luck, and fortunately captured two. ''There are .several .»*pecies of whales: but those most sought within the Polar Circle arc usually either ♦he 'right whale' or the 'white whale:' the former is much larger than tin; latter. There is also the *bow-hea«l' whale, and 'sulphur-bottoma' All the large whales of this region are ' balieeiierM :' that i». the mouth and upper jaw are furnished with th^' balleen, or whaleljone, of fv>fnm<*rce. When a whale i.»* fai«Uned to the ship, and the cat ting and wtripprng of the binblx i - i"-v.rk. renH»vtt^ tlw whah'brm^ frr»tn the upftpr jaw. the bea ifkikmrniv umHimk/ In WW, mi a !inli* kii.*r. « t..,r^ P v mmI ak*^ dM wtm *mmf4Unrnimi4: :.. ...^ ..- ^-...ij-.^. uAUmwA, ikmf ■!§» ■ t«4 to Umimm Bar n*^ wbra tlirjr •«•« fit4lo«M tlwiii Hh^ Im^ %BaiP m ilMMilfwi? i wmmmktw thm htmn^ mki mi^v ^pM»^ ^m •^w^Ki ^^rimshi hrhhmi ^wbbiw ^^ wp^sh^ bhw* Mil fhmAmm Wmmmt m km ■ ; and if we succeeded in reaching her he was sure ' we would never get back ;' but I was deter- mined, and so at last, in company with the mate, John Quayle, the second mate, Norris Havens, and Mr. Tallinghast, a boat- steerer like myself, we started off for the phantom ship, " It was eariy morning when we left the George Henry^ for we BOARDING THE RESOLUTE. ^ knew we bad at least ten, and perhaps more, miles to walk. The task we had set ourselves was no light one ; the pack was very rough, and every little while we came to patches of open water; and as we had no boat with us, we were obliged to extemporize a substitute by getting on small pieces of ice and making pad- dles of smaller pieces; and thus we ferried ourselves across these troublesome lakes and rivers. We were all day on our journey, it being nearly night when we reached the stranger. As we approached within sight we looked in vain for any signs of life. Could it be that all on board were sick or dead? What could it mean ? Surely, if there were any living soul on board, a party of four men traveling toward her across that hurnmocky ice would naturally excite their curiosity. But no one appeared. As we got nearer we saw, by indubitable signs, that she was abandoi. d. " ' Toward the shape our steps are bending, Northward turns our eager gaze, Wliere a stately ship appearing, Slowly cleaves the misty haze. Southward floats the apparition ; "Is it, can it be the same?" Frantic cries of recognition Shout a long, lost vessel's name I' By this time Mr. Quayle was so tired that I had to assist him in boarding the ship, myself and the other two following. We found the cabin locked and sealed ; but locks and seals did not stand long. A whaler's boot vigorously applied to a door is a very effective key. We were soon in the cabin. This was no whaler, that was plain ; neither was she an American vessel, it was soon discovered. English, no doubt of that. Every thing presented a mouldy appearance. The decanters of wine, with which the late officers had last regaled themselves, were still sit- ting on the table, some of the wine still remaining in the glasses, and in the rack around the mizen-mast were a number of other glasses and decanters. It was a strange scene to come upon in that desolate place. Some of my companions appeared to feel somewhat superstitious, and hesitated to drink the wine, but my long and fatiguing walk made it very acceptable to me, and hav- ing helped myself to a glass, and they seeing it did not kill me, an expression of intense relief came over their countenances, and they all, with one accord, went for that wine with a will; and 94 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. there and then we all drank a bumper to the late officers and crew o( the Besohite. "It was now too dark to attempt to travel back that night over the broken ice, and we prepared to stay where we were. Possibly the wine we had taken, being at that time unused to it, partly influenced us to this conclusion; but sleep in the vessel we did. " In the morning we found it snowing, and blowing very heavy "EVEBY TUIMU FBE8EMTKD A llOVLUM Al'I'EAKANCE." from the south-east. We could not hope ever to find our way back to the George Henry in such a storm, and so, having made a fire, we were prepared to pass the time as comfortably as possi- ble. Among other things, we found some of the uniforms of the officers, in which we arrayed ourselves, buckling on the swords, and putting on their cocked hats, treating ourselves, as British officers, to a little more wine. Well, we had what sailors call a 'good time,' getting up an impromptu sham duel; ajid before those swords were laid aside one was cut in twain, and the others RETURN TO THE SHIP. 95 were backed and beaten to pieces, taking care, however, not to harm our precious bodies, though we did some hard fighting — we, or the wine ! "The storm continued for three days, during which we had ample time to investigate the condition and inspect the contents of the good ship Rtsolute. We found food on board, and were enjoying ourselves so well that we should not have cared if it had lasted six. But the weather cleared up, and ^ e saw that the Oeorge Henry was still at about the same distance from us ; so we took all we could carry on our backs, and started to return, arriv- ing at our ship all safe, though some of us got a good ducking by jumping into the water while attempting to spring from one piece of ice to another. Being so heavily laden, we often fell short of the mark, and went plump into the water; but we were in such good spirits that these little mishaps, instead of inciting condolence, were a continual cause of merriment 'On arriving at the Georrje Henry, we made our report to Cap- tain Buddington, describing oar treasure-trove in glowing terms. After a good rest, we again started for the Resolute, and staid sev- eral days on board. At this time the two vessels were nearing each other — the one voluntarily, the other drifting, as she had already done, for a thousand miles. We did not know this at the time, but learned afterward that the Resolute had been aban- doned, by Sir Edward Belcher's orders, on May 15, 1854, near Dealy Island, and had drifted all the way to Cape Mercy. "At last the two vessels were only about four miles apart. We were still having a nice time, when, one morning, we saw several persons coming over the ice, and, to our discomfiture, they proved to be the captain, with several of the crew. We very soon got orders to return on board the Qeorye Henry, while, to our chagrin, the captain took possession of the Resolute. " We had now drifted as far south as Cumberland Gulf, Cape Mercy bearing west about twenty-five miles distant; but the ice was still close and compact. Had we now caught a good gale from the south-east, we were just in the right position to have been drifted where we wished to get, up into the gulf But no; instead, we got a gale from the north-west, blowing us directly out of the gulf, and away we drifted past it, and once more to the south of it. " There was no Jiope of getting back while the pack-ice lay 96 ARCTIC KXl'EKIENCES. along the coast; and our only hope now was to get out of the pack as quickly as po.ssible, and return home. The Resolute, get- ting a lead through the ice, got out on the 14th of October, but the Oeorge Uenry was still fast, and drifting slowly southward; though we too were soon to be released from the pack, but such a release as one would wish to see but once in a lifetime. 'On the 25th of October a strong gale commenced to blow from the north-east, and continued with great violence. On the 26th there was a very heavy sea running under the ice; all through the night, and to the morning of the 27th, it was dark and stormy, with danger all the time ol" drifting upon great ice- bergs. Many heavy spurs, rough and jagged, projected from these bergs, cutting fearfully into the vessel, and finally she pounded her keel off, tore her rudder, and injured her stern-post. *' On getting clear of the bay, we went to the pumps, and found the vessel making a great deal of water. On the abatement of the gale, we repaired our rudder as best we could, and then start- ed for home, short of men, of course, as more than half of the crew was with Captain Buddington, on board of the Resolute. But with pumping day and night in heavy weather we could not keep the vessel free of water — it would gain on the pumps hourly ; but. when the weather was moderate we could keep her nearly free. After a most laborious passage, we made out to keep her afloat until we reached New London, in forty days from the start. The Resolute did not arrive until some time after — her pas- sage being sixty days, "I next went as second mate, in 1856, with Captaif. James Buddington, in the George Henry, having the Ameret, a top-sail schooner, as tender, and wintered in Cumberland Gulf, lat, 65° 25' N., long. 67° W. ; returned in August of 1857, and sailed again as first mate, and arrived in the gulf October 14; and this season passed another winter there, returning in the fall of 1858. "I bad now become so accustomed to the northern climate that it seemed more natural to me than a more southern one. Sailed again in the spring of 1859, as first officer, but started to return home in November of the same year, as our vessel was dismasted off Cape Charles, and we got into St. Johns, New- foundland, where we repaired, and arrived home in February. "In the spring of 1860 sailed as master of the brig Oeorgiana. Previous to my departure, I made the acquaintance of Captain • MEETS CAPTAIN C. F. HALL. 97 C. F. Hall. He was then writing to the papers and lecturing through the country, endeavoring to interest and stimulate the public on the subject of his projected expedition. I lent him the model of an Esquimaux kayack, which he used in several of his lectures. I afterward met him just north of Frobisher Bay. I was in that vicinity at the time he lost the schooner Rescue, and at that time I came near losing my vessel, as reported in his work in 'Arctic Researches;' but though she was beating on the rocks, during a violent storm, for twenty-four hours, myself and crew having to get ashore on spars to save our lives, I finally saved both vessel and cargo. Returned home in the fall of 1861. "Sailed again, in the spring of 1862, in the bark Orray Toft, of New Bedford ; wintered once more in the North, and returned home in the fall of 1863. The Orray Tafl was wrecked and lost near Marble Island, in September, 1872, while I was in the Polaris at Thank God Harbor; and a sLct time after the Ansel Gihbs, a whaler known to many Arctic explorers, was lost at the same place. The men had to winter on Marble Island, and were not rescued till August, 1873, at the time I was on board the Tigress searching for Captain Buddington. Many of the men were lost ; some at the time of the wreck, and fourteen from scurvy, brought on by exposure and insufficient and improper food. "Sailed again, in the spring of 1864, in the bark Antelope, of New Bedford, and on this vovajre staid out two winters — one in Hudson Bay, and one in Cumberland Gulf. On this trip I took my vessel farther north than any of the whalers had been before. I sailed right ahead into Repulse Bay, and took the first tvhale there that teas ever caught in those waters — the whalers having previous to that limited themselves to the latitude of Wager Riv- er. Since, however, they have freely visited Repulse Bay. This bay probably offers, on its north shore, more and better harbors than any place within the whaling regions ; but the south shore is clean and level, without harbors ; and there is a peculiarity about this locality which I have never found elsewhere so near the Arctic Circle, and that is the frequency of thunder-storms, accompanied by vivid lightning. While I was in winter-quarters in Hudson Bay, Captain Hall visited the bark Mbnticello, which had brought him out, and also other vessels wintering there, including the Antelope. 1 then had long talks with him about getting up another expedition after he 7 98 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. had found out all he could about Sir John Franklin's expedition, and he always wound up by saying he wanted me to go with him, lie was badly off for boats at that time, and I let him have one of mine. The Antelope was lost in a severe storm in the year 1865, and I returned to St. Johns, Newfoundland, in the steamer Wolf, Captain Skinner, and from there got home. " Sailed again, in the spring of 1867, in the top-sail schooner Era, on which voyage the schooner broke out of winter-quarters in December, and drifted out to sea. We had two vessels in company caught in the same drift; one was abandoned, the other run ashore. The Era, finally drifting in among some bergs, was frozen in for the winter. During thia voyage I met Captain Hall again. He was living with the Esquimaux; in 'training,' as the sportsmen would say, for the great work which he even then had in mind. I supplied him with provisions of various kinds, and he, when he had opportunity, sent the natives with fresh meat to the ships. "Sailed again, in the Era, in the spring of 1869, returning in the fall of 1870. "In referring to my old log-books, as well as in recalling the events themselves, I find that the experiences of whaling are not essentially different from those of the Polar exploring parties — 80 far, I mean, as the exposures and dangers are concerned. We were in continual risk of getting ' beset,' and often were closed in, and unable to move for days or weeks, and sometimes com- pelled to remain and winter, being unable to break out or bore our way through. The olu log-books are full of such entries as these : '• 'Schr. Era, July 17, 1867. Beset in the ice, North Bluff bearing E.N.E. " ^July 18. Laying by ; ice-anchor out ; all sails furled ; no water in sight. " ' Ja/y 23. Working slowly through the ice to the westward. " ^Sept. At anchor at Black-lead Island. " 'Or^ 2'.). Bay fall of drifting ice. " ^.Tuly 6, 1869. All hands employed breaking out vessel. " ^July 27. Working in the pack, Cape Misery bearing N.N.E. " ^July 29. Beset ; no water visible. " ^Nov. 18. At winter-quarters at Niountelik Harbor. All hands employed saw- ing ice; eight ships in company. 8 p.m. ; blowing hard; ice commenced to break up. Worked all night to try and save the vessel. At 12, midnight, let go the star- board anchor, and got the larboard chain ashore ; thick snow. " ^Nov. 19. Thick snow; one anchor down; ice all broken up; expecting to go ashore. If wind hauls N.W., we are saved ; otherwise the chance is small. WITH THE POLARIS AS ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR. 99 " ^Dec. 8. Ice on the move, and forcing the schooner inshore, broadside to, through ice nine inches thick, '• ^ Dec, 9. Drove in between grounded icebergs; took out provisions; took ashore square-sail and mainsail to make a house. Two teams of dogs from Niountelik help- ed haul our things ; 20^ below zero.' "On this last occasion the ship remained frozen in until Feb- ruary, and myself and the crew lived ashore in the house or hut we had built with stones and covered with the sails taken from the ship, watching anxiously all the time for a break up, which might either relieve the ship or crush her to pieces. I could not tell what would happen ; but, fortunately, in February the ice began to break, and I got over to my ship, found she was still sea- worthy, repaired damages, got our provisions and other arti- cles aboard again, and, getting a lead out, finished my intended trip, making, after all, a very fair voyage. "On arriving at home, New London, in October, 1870, Captain Hall called to see me. lie informed me that he had succeeded in getting an expedition started for the North Pole, and wished me to go with him in the capacity of sailing-master and ice-pilot; but at that time I had a project of my own on hand, and had opened negotiations with a party, expecting to get a vessel for the white whale-fishery, and I so stated to Captain Hall. lie call- ed on me several times to persuade me to go, but I felt obliged to decline, having commenced negotiations with other parties. I then heard that he had engaged S. O. Buddington. "As I did not succeed in effecting an agreement about the whale-fishing which I had had in view, I concluded to remove, with my fiimily, from New London to Brooklyn ; and shortly after, the Polaris coming to the Navy Yard there, I called to see Captain Hall. He again requested me to join the expedition, making me many promises: at that time all the positions were filled ; but he was not to be denied, and he declared he would make a position for me, for go I must. "At last I consented to go; and in forty-eight hours from the time I agreed to accompany him, I had made all my arrange- ments, procured my outfit, bade farewell to friends, and was on my way to the North Pole. The rest of my Arctic experiences will be found narrated in the history of the Polaris expedition, the ice-floe voyage, and in the journal of my trip in the Tigress, in search of Captain Buddington and party." 100 AKCTIC EXI'ERIENXES. CHAPTER III. THE POLARIS EXPEDITION. Tlie North Polar Expedition authorized by Congress. — Captain Hall's Commission. — The Periwinkle, afterward Polaris, selected. — Letter of Captain Hall's. — De- scription of the Steamer Polaris. — Liberal Supplies. — A patent Canvas Boat. — Books presented by J. (Larson Brevoort. — A characteristic Letter of Captain Hall's. — An Invitation to visit him at the North Pole. The Polaris expedition, or, in official language, the "United States North Polar Expedition," which sailed from the Brooklyn Navy Yard on Thursday evening, June 29, 1871, was under the general command of Commander Charles Francis Hall, whose previous explorations in the Arctic and high northern latitudes will be found summarized in the sketch of his life, to be found in its appropriate place, as descriptive of the chief officer of the Polaris. On the 8th of March, 1870, Hon. Mr. Stevenson, of Ohio, intro- duced into the House of Representatives a bill authorizing the President to appoint Captain Hall to the command of an ex- ploring expedition to the Arctic regions, reciting the facts of his previous successful journeys, experience, and acclimatization. An identical bill was introduced into the Senate by the Hon. Mr. Sherman, of Ohio, on the 25th of March, and which, after being twice read b}'' its title, was referred to the Committee on Foreign Relations, of which the late Hon. Charles Sumner, of Massachu- setts, was chairman. *, . On the 19th of April Mr. Sumner reported back the bill with an amendment striking out all personal reference to Captain Hal], and substituting the phrase "one or more persons." The bill, as amended, finally passed both Houses of Congress on the 11th of July, 1870, and was signed by the President on the 12th. See p. 101. On the 20th of the same month Captain Hall received his commission from President Grant, of which the following is a copy : CAPTAIN HALL'S COMMISSION. 101 Executive Mansion, Washington, D. C, July 20, 1870. Captain C. F. Hall : Dkau Sik, — You are hereby appointed to command the expedition toward the North Pole, to be or^'anized and sent out pursuant to an Act of Congress approved •fuly 12, 1870, and will report to the Secretary of the Navy and the Secretary of the Interior for detailed instructions. U. S. Gkaxt. By a section of this Act the President was authorized to fit out one or more expeditions, and dispatch them toward the North Pole, appointing one or more persons to the command, and also to detail any officer in the public service to take part in it; like- wise to give the use of a public vessel suitable for the purpose {vide Sec. 9 of the Act, in Appendix, page 428). TUE roLABia. The. scientific operations connected with the expedition were to be directed by the National Academy of Sciences, of which the well-known and widely esteemed Professor J. Henry is pres- ident.* Captain Hall was allowed to inspect a number of United States vessels, and it was at his desire that the PeriwinkL, to which the iiame of Polaris was subsequently given, was selected. The Polaris was partially fitted out at the Washington Navy Yard ; but it being, on some accounts, more convenient for her ♦ See Appendix, p. 431, 102 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. to be completed at Brooklyn, she left Washington on the 10th of June, 1870, and arrived at the Navy Yard, Brooklyn, N. Y,, on the 14th. Here she received the last alterations deemed nec- essary, completed her outHt, received her stores, and shipped her crew. While lying at Brooklyn, Captain Ilall addressed the follow- ing letter to the Secretary of the Navy : steamer Polaris, Navy Yard, Brooklyn, N. Y., June 2.", 1S71. I have the honor to apply for the appointment of Captain George E. Tyson, navi- gator and master of sledges for the North Polar Expedition, after full consultation with Captain Buddington and First Mate Chester, who agree with myself that the services of Captain Tyson, who has been engaged for over twenty years in voyaging to and from the Arctic seas, would be of great value to the expedition. * * * Cap- tain Tyson is well known to me, and to the whaling-houses of New Bedford and New London, as an experienced, trustworthy navigator and dog-sledge traveler in the Arctic regions * I have the honor to be, Yours, respectfully, C. F. Hall, Commanding U. S. Surth Polar Expedition, Hon. Geo. M. Roiiebon, Secretary of the Navy. The Polaris was a screw-propeller of only three hundred and eighty-seven tons ; but, in addition to her steam-power, she was fitted with the rig of a foretop-sail schooner, so that, as circum- stances dictated, she could be propelled by steam or wind. Did any irreparable accident happen to her machinery, she could still make fair headway under canvas. To guard against accident to the propeller by contact with the heavy ice it was known she must encounter, the .screw was so arranged that it could be un- shipped and raised to the deck through a shaft in the stern ol the vessel, which, as will be narrated hereafter, was done on the 1st of September, 1871. Extra blades were also provided, with which to replace the originals, should they be broken. Her en- gine was considered exceptionally good, and was the product of Neafles & Levy's establishment in Philadelphia. For its size, it was a powerful worker; and space, in this case, was a prime consideration, as so much room was needed for coal and other stores. In regard to her boilers, there was an arrangement unique as to United States vessels, one of them being fitted for the use of whale or seal oil as a steam generator; and this was expected not only to be used for the general purpose of propulsion, but * See extract of letter from Captain Edwin W. White, in Appendix, p. 42.']. DESCRIPTION OF THE POLARIS. 103 also as a means of heating the vessel when in winter-quarters. Thi;j boiler, as will be subsequently described, was willfully de- stroyed just after leaving Disco. The hull of the Polaris was specially prepared for her Arctic voyage by being planked all over with solid six-inch white-oak timber, the bows being made almost solid, and then sheathed with iron which terminated in a sharp prow, with which to bore her way through the ice. Another peculiarity was a new style of life-preserver, in the shape of a buoy, to be kept slung over the stern, but which could, when occasion required, be instantly detached and lowered to the water by means of a connecting spring which could be reached from the pilot-house ; and, by an- other spring conveniently placed, an electric light, kept secured to the buoy, and rising above it between two and three feet, could be instantly lighted by means of a galvanic battery in the cabin. In a region where parties are subject to the constant liability of being separated from their ship by the breaking up of the ice, and especially during the dark months from October to February, a contrivance of this kind for forming a beacon-light to those sep- arated by any cause from the ship, might well be termed a life- preserver; and that it was not called into -equisition when Cap- tain Tyson and party were separated from the Pohris on the ice- floe, shows either that due care had not been taken of the appa- ratus, and that it w.ns unusable from neglect, or that those in com- mand did not take the trouble to give this aid to their imperiled companions. Extras of all kinds likely to be needed were amply supplied; every sort of running gear, cordage of different sizes, spare sails, spars, and even an extra rudder. She also carried one small howitzer. She had also four boats — similar to whale-boats — one flat-bot- tomed scow, and a patent portable folding canvas boat, intended for the use of transglacial parties. This boat was about twenty feet long, four feet wide, and two deep ; and though it weighed only two hundred and fifty pounds, had an estimated carrying capacity of four tons, and was expected, in case of necessity, to carry twenty men, though five or six would be her complement on a surveying trip. The skeleton, or frame-work, was constructed of ash and hick- 104 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. ory, and over this was aiBxed a water-proof canvas cover, some- thing on the principle of the oomiaks, or seal -skin "women's boats," of the Esquimaux. The boat could be readily disjointed and folded, so as to occupy but a small space, and could thus be laid upon a sledge for portage when no longer needed as a boat ; and, on reaching water again, could be as suddenly retransformed into its original shape. Theoretically, it was perfect; but, practically, it was found of little use, being excessively slow. It was used on an exploring trip, and finally abandoned by Mr. Chester, being left at Newman Bay, Mr. Chester and party walking back to the Polaris, then distant from the ship about twenty miles. In the cabin, in addition to the small but select library which Captain Hall always had with him, was a cabinet organ, which had been generously presented to the late commander by the " Smith Organ Company," with the hope that its sweet strains would not only assist the regular Sunday service on board the Polaris, but that on other occasions it would help to while away the tedious hours, when prevented from the exercise of more active duties, during the long Arctic night. Some very valuable books were lost when the Polaris found- ered. That generous and long-tried friend of Arctic exploration, J. Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn, New York, bad, among other volumes of interest and value, placed on board of that vessel for Captain Hall's use, an entire set of the British Parliamentarj' Blue-books relating to the English Arctic exploring expeditions. There was also a copy of Luke Fox's "Arctic Voyage of 1635," much valued by its owner,* partly from its bearing the following indorsement in Captain Hall's own handwriting, it having been loaned to him also in 1864 : This book belongs to my friend, J. Carson Brevoort. To-morrow, March 31, myself and native party, consisting of 13 souls, start on my Hledge-joumey to King William Land. C. F. Hall, Sflth (Snow House) Enc't., near Fort Hope, Repulse Bay, Lat. 6C' 32' N., long. 86' 66' W. Friday, March 80, 1866. Part of his library Captain Hall saved — a few books — by leaving them in Greenland with Inspector Karrup Smith, but • See interesting letter of Mr. Brevoort's in Appendix, p. 467. A CHARACTERISTIC LETTER. 105 many others went down with the good ship Polaris in si.'^ht of Life-boat Cove, while others were mutilated, destroyed, jr aban- doned. To show the watchful interest which Captain Ilall took in the proper outfit of his vessel, we introduce the following letter, which is characteristic of the man, and explains itself. It was addressed to a friend who had previously discussed the subject of provisioning the Polaris with him : Wabuinoton, D. C, May 28, 1871. Dear Sir, — Your letter of the 26th came to hand, and then I telegraphed you as follows : " Do not purchase any Texas corned beef. Don't like it. Letter by mail." The letter promised I purposed to write and send by last night's mail, but some- how I was so completely hemmed in by callers that I couldn't do it. I simply say here, relative to the Texas beef, * * * that it does not bear so favor- able a reputation among some that have used it as to justify my having it on so im- portant an expedition as the one we are preparing. Indeed, from an examination and use of the article, I am not favorably impressed with it. I think it quite advisable to have half the bread made of the Graham flour. Am pleased that the same can be done. * * * Am quite sure that the flour will not "heat" when over in the North I'olar country. Should there be any danger that it would, before getting out of this melting weather, then it would be wise to liave the wheat kiln-dried before it is ground. This process could not cost more than one-half cent or so per pound. But some miller ought to be able to tell us whether Graham flour will keep or not. I think it will. You state as follows : " I do .lot notice in the list any salt beef." Of course, 3'ou can not find such a rank scurvy-breeder in any list I have prepared. It may be that just as we get about ready to start, I shall get you to order the putting up of a few barrels of slightly corned beef. This article, put up in this way, will keep in the climate the expedition is going to, and not give us any scurvy, while the ordinary salt beef of the market will. * * * I thank you for your kindly offer to make your house my home when I come there. In response, let me say that when I get well settled doivn at the North Pole, which I hope and believe will be about the middle of next May (1872), then I may send down word to you to come and see me, and make that objective point your home. Methinks I see you shiver at this suggestion. * * ♦ The Secretary of the Navy is going to let the Polar Expedition have the store- ship Supply, now on its way from France, as a transport. [United Stales steamer Congress substituted. — Ed.'] All the senators I have spoken with are quite in favor of his doing so. Senators Morton, Patterson, Nye, Thurman, Sumner, Fenton have each indorsed my written request for a transport to Greenland by adding favorable written sentiments they entertain in behalf of this movament. If it would help the case at all, / could get nearly every Senator and Representative to indorse so reasonable a petition. But, really, yours and your brother's action, before you left Washington, [sufliciently] contributed to show the Secretary the ex- pediency of sending along a transport. I am blessed with having so noble a soul as is Secretary Robeson to aid me in 106 ARCTIC EXI'ERIENCLS. accomplishing the great work of my life. / love the man, and therefore his most intimate friends from early days, as are you and your brother, I profoundly respect. I rejoice that the Secretary has selected you to attend upon me, for now, without difficulty, I can have whatever, in reason, I shall recjuire to help me to make geo- graphical discoveries from lat. 80'' N. up to the North Pole — a feai that has baffled the civilized world for more than three centuries. The President has promised to visit the Polaris on Wednesday next. Yours, etc., C. F. Hall. A BN0W-B4TTALI. THE I'OLARIS I'UT INTO COMMISSION. 107 CHAPTER IV. The Polnrix\mi into rommission. — Official Instnirtions to the Commander. — Scien- tific Diieitions. — Letter of Captain Hall's. — List of the Officers and Crew. Previous to sailing, the Secretary of the Navy, Hon, George M. Robeson, put the Polaris formally in commission, placing the command of the expedition, the '^vessel, officers, and crew,^^ under the orders of Captain Charles Francis Hall. This point it is well for the reader to observe, as on its subsequent interpretation the welfare and success of the whole expedition turned. Captain Hall was ordered to make the ^rst favorable port on the west coast of Greenland, leaving it to his judgment to stop at St, Johns, Newfoundland, if he thought best for any rea- son to do so. It was further ordered that, if the first Greenland port made was south of Holsteinborg, the Polaris should from thence go to the last-named settlement, and from Holsteinborg to the harbor of Goodhavn, on the island of Disco, where the transport -ship, the Congress, was expected to bring him addi- tional stores, and establish a depot for future use. At the two most northern settlements, Upernavik and Tossac, dogs and any other Arctic necessity were to be called for. After leaving the last of these Greenland ports, the Secretary directs that the Polaris shall go to Cape Dudley Diggs (about 76° N.), " and thence you will make all possible progress, with vessels, boats, and sledges toward the North Pole, using your' own judgment as to the route or routes to be pursued, and the locality for each winter's quarters." The Polaris expedition, having been provisioned for two years and a half, it was ex- pected that Captain Hall would continue his explorations for the whole of that period, unless "the main object of the expedition, viz., attaining the position of the North Pole, be accomplished at an earlier period," in which event it was of course expected and ordered that the Polaris should return to the United States. The law of Congress having provided for a Scientific Corps to be attached to the expedition, and also provided that the Nation- 108 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. al Academy of Sciences should prescribe their duties and modes of operation, the Secretary included in his instructions to Captain Hall this clause : " The charge and direction of the scientific op- erations, will be intrusted, under your cominnnd, to Dr. P]mil Bes- sel ; and you will render Dr. Bessel and his assistants all such facilities and aids as may be in your power." The Secretary further orders that all objects of natural curios- ity collected by any of the individuals of the company should be carefully preserved, and considered the property of the Govern- ment. Again : "You will give special written directions to the sailing and ice master of the expedition, Mr. S. O. Buddington, and to the Chief of the Scientific Department, Dr. E. Bessel, that, in case of your death or disability, * * * they shall consult as to the pro- priety and manner of carrying into further effect the foregoing instructions — which I here urge must, if possible, be done. * * * In any event, however, Mr, Buddington shall, in case of your death or disability, continue as the sailing and ice master, and control and direct the movements of the vessel." It was directed that Buddington should consult with Dr. Bes- sel, but the former alone, the commander being dead or disabled, should decide on the propriety of returning to the United States. The usual directions are given, "to report at all convenient opportunities to the Navy Department," to erect monuments in proper positions, inclosing records of progress and general con- dition of the party; and to establish caches of provisions, accord- ing to judgment. After passing Cape Dudley Diggs, no ordina- ry mode of communication with the civilized world could be ex- pected. It was therefore ordered that bottles closely sealed, or small copper cylinders, containing a statement of the latitude and longitude, with any other facts of special interest, should be thrown overboard daily, if open water or drifting ice promised to convey them to sea. These papers were provided by the Gov- ernment, printed in different languages, with blanks to be filled in with the occasion of using. In addition to the instructions of Secretary Eobeson, Professor Henry, through the former, requested that "one point should be specially urged upon Captain Hall, namely, the determination, with the utmost scientific precision possible, of all his geograph- ical positions, and especially of the ultimate northern limit which SCIENTIFIC DIRECTIONS. 109 he attains. The evidence of the genuineness of every determina- tion of this kind should be made apparent beyond all question." To as.sist in this being done, the Polaris was liberally supj)lied with all needed instruments of the best quality, as also with charts and books, and whatever else was needed to command success. The instructions to the Scientific Corps were prepared by Pro- fessor Joseph Henry, President of the National Academy of Sci- ences, assisted by Professors Baird, Agassiz, Ililgard and Meek, at Washington, and are of the most elaborate description, as will be seen by referring to the Appendix. The most prominent point insisted upon was absolute accuracy. It is ordered, say the instructions, " in all cases, that the actual instrumental readings must be recorded, and if any corrections are to be applied, the reason for these corrections must also be re- corded." Again : " The evidence of the genuineness of the obser- vations brought back should be of the most irrefragable charac- ter. No erasures whatever with rubber or knife should be made. When an entry requires correction, the figures or words should be merely crossed by a line, and the correct figures written above." As to the subjects committed to the observation and record of the Scientific Corps, we shall merely indicate them in general terms, referring those who desire to make themselves acquainted with the details to the originals in the Appendix. The first order relates to the keeping of a full and accurate log -book, of all transactions concerning the expedition; and a journal of similar import, to be filled up daily, when on sledge- expeditions. The astronomical observations were to be made four times a day, and each operation repeated three times to guard against mistakes. The variations of the compass is to be continually watched and recorded, and on sledge-journeys particular attention to be paid to the dip and relative intensity of the magnetic force; and at winter-quarters, " the absolute horizontal intensity to be deter- mined with the theodolite magnetometer, including the determi- nation of the moment of inertia.*' Notes to be taken of the various features of the aurora borealis. Also pendulum experiments, to determine the force of gravity in diflferent latitudes. no ARCTIC KXrKUIFNCEf]. Tides, currents, sea-soundings, bottom-dredging, and the den- sity of 8«'a water in different localities, to be tested. Registers of temperature, the pressure of the air, and the j)ro- portion of moisture contained in the latter, are all to be made the subject of careful experiment. The velocity of the winds, observations on the clouds, the pre- cipitation of water, the form and weight of hailstones, the char- acter of snow, and any peculiarities of crystallization, all to be noted. Electricity in all its multiform developments, the polarization of light, as also optical phenomena, mirage, halos, parhelia, lu- minous arches, and meteors of all kinds, to be looked after. Experiments for the detection of ozone in the atmosphere were provided for, by supplying Dr. Bessel with sensitized paper, and with directions how to extemporize the necessary apparatus. In natural history and geology, it is only necessary here to ob- .serve that the scientists were expected to improve all opportuni- ties to make collections of specimens, and to take the utmost care so to label and arrange them that no false deductions might be drawn through errors of fact. The course and growth of glaciers being of exceptional inter- est receives large notice, and every suggestion is made to induce :i thorough scientific examination of such portions of any as may i>e traversed by the sledge-parties. The late lamented Professor Louis Agassiz furnished the remarks on this point, indicating to Dr. Bessel the great importance of comparative examinations of the Greenland or other Arctic glaciers with the known history of the Alpine rivers of ice. He wisely forbears giving utterance to any dictum on disputed points. He says : " I have purposely avoided all theoretical considerations, and only call attention to xhe facts which it is most important to ascertain, in order to have a statement as unbiased as possible." While in Washington previous to sailing, a want of mutual respect was known to exist between Captain Hall and Dr. Bes- sel ; and so far was Dr. Bessel's discourtesy carried, on several occasions, that Captain Hall would have been quite justified in refusing to take him in his company, and calling for a volunteer in his place. It had originally been the intention of Captain Hall, after reach- ing the head of BaiSBn Bay, to strike across to the west and sail LETTKU TO THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVY. HI through Jones Sound, and thence to the North Polrxr Sea, which had inspired Sir Edward Belcher with such abject fears; but, after careful consideration and consultation with Arctic experts, he finally concluded to sail as nearly due north as possible through Smith Sound and connecting waters. The day before the iVum sailed. Captain Ilall expressed his gratitude, in the following language, for the thorough manner in which the expedition had been fitted out: steamer PolarU, Brooklyn Navy Yard, Jane 2S, 1871. Sm, — I have the honor to report that the steamer Polaris, selectetl by jou for the expedition toward the North Pole, under my command, is now ready for sea, and will sail to-morrow. JJefore leaving p I'eter Johnson. Henry Hobby. Frederick Jamka. Willlani Lindermann. Noah Hays. Emil Bessel Surgeon and Chief of Scientific Corps. R. W. I). Bryan Astronomer and Chaplain, Fretlerick Meyers Meteorologist. Esquimaux. Joe Interpreter and General Assistant. Hannah Tuncy Child. ^ ( Hans Christian Dog-driver, Hunter, and Servant. fc^ \ Wife of Hans « ••: / Aiigustina Child. I H J Tobias. ( Succi u BlUGUAi'UlC^VL SKETCH OF CAl'TAiN HALL. HJJ CHAPTER V. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF CAPTAIN HALL. Nativity and early Life of Charles Francis Hall. — Leaves liis native State of New Hampshire and settles in Ohio. — Takes to Journulistn. — Attracted by Arctic Lit- erature. — Unsucces^;iul litfbrt to join M'Cliiitock. — Sails for the Arctic Regions in the (leorge Henri/, of New London. — The Tender Rescue and the Expedition Bout lost in a Storm. — He explores Frobisher Bay and ('ountess of Warwick Sound. — Collects lielics of Franklin's Expedition. — Returns to the United States, — His Theories regarding the Franklin Exj)edition. — Sails for the North, 1804, in the Bark Monlicello. — His Discoveries. — Skeletons of Franklins Men scattered over King William Land. — Annual Reports. — His Life with the Esquimaux. — Return to the United States. — Physical Apjiearance. — Mental Traits. — In the Innuit Land he did as the Innuits do. — Persevering Efforts to organize the North Polar F>xpe- dition. — President Grant personally interested. — "That Historical Flag." — How he would know when he got to the Pole. — His Premosiitions. — His last Dispatch. Charles Francis Hall, though long a resident of Ohio, was born in the township of Rochester, in the State of New Hamp- shire, in the year 1821, His early life was far from luxurious, though not lacking in the ordinary comforts of country homes. He was early inured to work, and received only the usual com- mon-school education of the period, which was far more limited then than now. But a lad fond of reading will readily make amends for the limitation of school facilities, and young Hall was omnivorous in this respect, so that not only the books in his own family but those of his friends and neighbors were sought out, borrowed, and read. He thus became pos.sessed of a curious conglomeration of information, over which he brooded, without, it would seem, any proper direction as to systematic study. And thus he plod- ded his way along, like many another dreamy lad, whose heart and aim is all beyond, and outside of, his every-day occupations. As his school-days ended the unattractive labor of a black- smith's shop opened before him; and though not much to his taste, this heavy work assisted materially in developing his muscles and hardening his constitution, thus indirectly helping to fit him for the arduous adventures of his later years. 8 114 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 0UABLE8 FBANOIB UALL. While yet a young man, he left his native place, and with it the blaclvsmith's trade. Setting his face westward, after some experiments elsewhere, he settled in Cincinnati. Here he made arrangements to learn the seal engraving, and in this business he continued for some years ; but he had not yet found his forte. This sort of work, though more artistic than shoeing horses or welding iron, did not satisfy him. He took to journalism, and published at Cincinnati, first the ATTRACTED BY AKCTIC LITERATURE. 115 Occasional, and subsequently the Daily Penny Press; and both of these periodicals amply prove that, though Captain Hall was not a college graduate nor a professed scientist, he was very far from being an ignorant man. lie was well-read, intelligent, thoughtful, and a persevering student of whatever he undertook to make himself acquainted with. For nearly ten years before he sailed on his first Arctic voyage he had been an enthusiastic reader of Arctic literature. Natu- rally attracted by the subject, which has fascinated so many brill- iant minds, he searched out, read up, and carefully studied every thing relating to Polar affairs which he could get hold of; and by the time that England and the United States were fully awakened to the necessity of sending relieving parties to search for Sir John Franklin, young Ilall was fully aroused, eager and anxious to join in the search. The first Grinnell Expedition especially excited his enthusiasm, but no way then appeared open to him by which he could join it. Disappointed in that, he made another unsuccessful effort to go out with M'Clintock, in 1857. At this time his mind was so unsettled between his desire to go on a Polar expedition and the necessary claims of his family — for he had married in Cincinnati — that his business, never very profitable, became more and more embarrassed. To his eye, the Polar regions had all the attraction of a terrestrial paradise ; its glistening icebergs and snow-clad plains were as enchanting to his imagination as the fairy-tales of younger days ; and, above all, he had that impression of fatalism, that inspiration of a per- sonal mission, which looked to some of his friends like a mania, but which was a convincing voice to him that success was possi- ble, and that he was the person to succeed. But he had no money, no means whatever of fitting up a pri- vate expedition, no influence at Washington, at that time, by which he might hope to attain his purpose, nor, after De Haven's return, did the Government appear inclined to invest further in that direction. But here and there our enthusiast gained friends ; touched the heart of one man by his pictures of some stray wan- derer of that fated expedition dragging out an isolated and half- savage existence among the Esquimaux; interested the imagina- tion of another by narrations of the wonderful scenes which had met the wondering gaze of preceding explorers; reached even 116 ARCTIC EXl'EUIENCES. to the pockets of others, who believed that such devotion would accomplish something, if the right start was given ; and offers of aid at last cheered and encouraged him to hope that his heart's desire might yet be fulfilled. • But it was not until the year 1860 that he was at last enabled to put his long-cherished plans in operation. In pursuit of in- formation among practical men, who knew the modes of life among the Esquimaux, and the resources for living on the shores north of Hudson Bay, and north and west of Cumberland Sound, Captain Hall visited New London, Connecticut. Here he was fortunately introduced to the firm of Williams & Haven, who generously tendered him a free passage in their bark, the George Henry, to which was* attached as tender the famous Res- cue, a schooner once known as the Anaret, and which had been consort to the Advance in 1850-51, in the De Haven Arctic ex- pedition. A fund was raised by his friends in New York, Cincinnati, ; New London, and elsewhere, to provide the necessary outfit; and on the 29th of May, 1860, he had the inexpressible pleasure of at last finding himself sailing toward the goal of all his hopes. An "expedition boat," a fine large sail-boat, had been express- ly built for him, and in this he expected, by portage and other- wise, to reach King William Land, to prosecute his researches in shallow waters which the bark could not enter, and farther to the north and west than the whaler was destined to go. He reached Cyrus Field Bay without special incident, and made some interesting trips in his expedition boat; but his hopes were fearfully dashed by its wreck and entire loss, during a vio- lent storm, which occurred on the 27th of September, at which time the Oeorge Henry was endangered, and the Rescue went ashore and became a total loss. Captain Ty^on, then master of the brig Qeorgiana, was involved in the same storm, and, though for some time expecting the certain destruction of liis own ves- sel, he sent a portion of his crew to try and save Hall's precious expedition boat; but their efforts were ineffectual. Though sadly disappointed by the loss, it did not wholly dishearten him. He could not do as he had predetermined, but he decided to stay and do what he could. His aim had been to proceed north and west in search of possible survivors of the Franlilin expedition, through the connecting waters north and west of Fox Channel ; but the FIRST VISIT TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 117 loss of the Rescue and his expedition boat completely frustrated this intention. He was for a moment cheered by the promise of a stout whale-boat by old Captain Parker, of the British whaler True Love^ but ficcident prevented his receiving it. He then re- solved to make what explorations he could with dog-sledgoa, and subsequently, with the aid of these and an "old, rotten, leaky, and ice-beaten boat" obtained from the George Ilenry^ made that thorough examination of both shores and the terminus of Fro- bishcr Bay and Countess of Warwick Sound which has since be- come a part of Arctic history. The account of the reliquiae be- longing to the visits of that ancient voyager, collected and brought by Captain Hall from that region, is fully detailed in his graphic and entertaining work entitled "Arctic liesearches." On this expedition he wag absent two years and a half, return- ing with accurate charts, and much other valuable information regarding the inhabitants and resources of the country. His crowning geographical discovery on this trip was that of proving the water named by Frobisher as a strait, and which had been so designated on the maps for two hundred and eighty-four years, to be a bay. But still mindful of his original object, Captain Hall had no sooner returned to the United States, than he set about planning another journey to the north-west. He had brought home with him two of the natives, Ebierbing and Tookoolito — the "Joe" and "Hannah " of the Polaris Expedition. These Esqui- maux, orlnnuits, as they prefer to call themselves, had been taken to England in 1858; and the woman especially had acquired many of the habits of civilization, spoke sufficiently good English to act as an interpreter, and could read a little. "Joe" was an excellent pilot, and could also speak some English. From what Captain Hall had learned from the natives during his sojourn and explorations around Frobisher Bay, he had be- come fully convinced that the Esquimaux held the secret of the fate ^ Sir John Franklin's company, and that by living with them .)ng enough to gain their confidence he should be able to extract all the truth from them. These ideas were so inwrought in his mind that he determined to return to the Arctic regions as soon as a new outfit could be secured, and to remain there expatriated for half a decade; to live with and among the natives, making himself completely one of them — all with the benevolent hope that he might be able to 118 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. m^- iii%,.,,. iOe, UANNAU, AMD OUILU. tiiid. ijlieve, and bring back to civilization some possible sur- vivor of the lost expedition. All of his old and many new friends came forward to his sup- port. The winter of 1863-64 was principally spent by him in lecturing, writing, and visiting where he could create or renew an interest in his new expedition. New London again furnished him a passage. This time it was made in the bark Monticello, of which Richard W. Chappel was agent. In the log-book we find the following entries: HALLS DISCOVERIKS. 119 "■June .30, 1804. The Arctic expedition: Mr. Hull and his two natives take pas- sage for Repulse Bay." [The two natives were Joe and Hannah.— /;" pleasant port, a point of discussion arose as to the authority of the commander over the Scientific Corps. Strong feeling was mutually exhibited, which extended to the officers, and even the crew, among whom was developed an un- mistakable feeling of special affinity on the score of national af- filiation. At this point it really appeared as if the foreign ele- ment were far more in sympathy with each other, as fellow-coun- trymen, thar they were with furthering the hopes of Captam Hall, and the main object of the expedition. However, matters were smoothed over ; the Scientific Corps were left free to follow their own course, and the threatened disruption of the party avoided. The vessel laid at St. Johns for a week, some repairs being found necessary for her machinery. Effi^rts were also made to secure a carpenter, but without success; and Captain Hall no- tified the Secretary of the Navy that he should leave without one, deeming longer delny inexpedient. Touching first at Fiscanaes, and then at Holsteinborg, Green- land, Captain Hall was agreeably surprised to meet at the latter port the Swedish Arctic exploring expedition, consisting of a brig and steamer, under commander Frederick W. Von Otter. This expedition had been up as far as Upernavik, but was now homeward bound, and the commander kindly offered to take and forward dispatches for Captain Hall. Commodore Von Otter reported the navigation in Baffin Bay to be exceedingly favorable, he having seen no ice, except occa- sional bergs, between Disco and Upernavik. He also furnished Captain Hall with a tabular statement of the results of some thirty deep-sea soundings and sea temperatures, obtained on board H. S, M. steamship Inge/jera between Holsteinborg and Upernavik (for which see Appendix, p, 457), with other pleas- ant courtesies, di^iy acknowledged and thoroughly appreciated by the commander of the Polaris. The favorable reports of the Swedish expedition inspired Cap- KINDNESS OF GOVERNOli ELBERG. 135 tain Hall with new hopes and increased enthusiasm, as the pros- pect of making good progress northward during the present sea- son was thus confirmed. Governor Elberg, of the Holsteinborg district, also very kindly offered to aid the purposes of the ex- pedition in any way that he could. Hall and he had met before, and they now greeted each other as old friends. There were two objects in putting into Holsteinborg; one was to get a supply of coal, and the other, a stock of reindeer furs, to make up into winter garments ; but neither of these could be obtained. The supply of coal on hand was only fifteen tons ; and though the governor generously offered to let Captain Hall have two-thirds of it, yet the latter very properly declined to strip the settlement, and concluded to await the tender which he knew was to bring a supply, and for which he was now every day hopefully looking. No reindeer skins could be had either, for the reason that none of these animals had recently been ob- tained. The deer formerly visited that part of Greenland in large herds, but of late years they had totally disappeared ; and hence no skins could be found for sale. The Polaris lay at Holsteinborg until the 3d of August, await- ing the tender Congress, and then sailed for Disco, reaching the harbor of Goodhavn on the afternoon of the 4th, twenty-four hours' sailing-time. On inquiry it was found that the inspector of the district, Mr. Karrup Smith, was away on his annual tour through the district, and might probably not return for two or three weeks; and though his lieutenant was very cordial and kindly disposed, he hesitated to assume the necessary responsibility. In this dilem- ma, the wife of the inspector, Mrs. Smith, came to the rescue; and expressing herself warmly in behalf of the expedition, and the propriety of the Danish officials doing all in their power to assist the party from the "great and glorious country of the United States," she suggested that a boat-party be sent off to seek the inspector and request his return to Goodhavn. Captain Hall promptly adopted the advice, and detailed his chief mate, H. C. Chester, for the duty. After a search up and down the coast, involving a distance of one hundred and seventy-five miles, almost entirely by oars, Mr. Chester was fortunate enough to find the object of his inquiry at Eittenbek, a station to the north of Disco, and the inspector, in- 136 ARCTIC EX1'EUIP:NCES. stantly acceding to the request, returned with his boat, in com- pany with Mr. Chester, on the 11th instant. During the absence of the boat, however, the United States steamer Congress, Cap- tain Daven{)ort, had arrived at Disco (August 10), and thus re- lieved Captain Hall of a " mountain-load of anxiety," and mak- ing the presence of Mr. Smith less necessary, though no less agreeable. It was, however, desirable to have his sanction for the use of the Government store-house, as a depot for the extra supplies brought out by the Congress, for the future use of the expedition ; and this was readily granted by Mr, Smith, who also engaged to have the stores carefully preserved till called for, and this gratuitously. The Polaris was here replenished with all the extra stores and coal which she could carry, and the balance was placed in the offered store -house belonging to the Danish Government. Besides the stores and dispatches, the Congress had also brought out Captain Tyson's commission as assistant navigator to the expedition, and he was henceforth a regularly enrolled officer. Captain Hall still wanted two men to thoroughly complete his Arctic party. Of these, one was a resident Dane, named Jansen, and enjoying the grand title of "governor" at Tossac, and the other a native Esquimau, Hans Christian. Both of these had been attached to Arctic exploring expeditions before, with Drs. Kane and Hayes, and it was naturally thought that their knowl- edge and experience of Arctic resources would add to the effi- ciency of the expedition, especially as Hans was reputed a good hunter and dog-driver. The last accomplishment is not easily lear.ied, while at the same time it is essential to the success of sledge-traveling. In addition to these, there were still dogs and furs to be obtained. Jansen was to be found at Tossac, and Hans at Proven, a little to the south of the former. Leaving Goodhavn on the 17th of August, where also the Polaris parted with the Congress, the former made all sail for Upernavik, which was reached on the 18th; thus making two hundred and twenty-five miles in little more than thirty-three hours. While lying at Goodhavn, it leaked out that furtive raids had been made on the liquors and other stores by unauthorized par- ties, and for a while it seemed that an open quarrel would be the outcome of the discovery. But Captain Hall's patience and for- DISSENSIONS ON BOARD THE POLARIS. 187 bearance were equal to the emergency, and the misdemeanor was condoned. Ilere he had hoped to meet Dr. Rudolph, the late Governor of Upornavik, who had been thirty years in Greenland, but who wa.s now expecting to return on a visit to his native place — Den- mark — and by whom he expected to be able to send to the United States his latest dispatches. Doctor, or now ex-Governor, Rudolph — for his successor, Mr. Elberg (son of the Governor of Ilolsteinborg), had arrived — imme- diately offered every facility within his power to aid Captain Hall, lie sent two men in kyacks — small native boats — one to find Janscn, and the other to find Hans. The former was unsuccess- ful, as Jansen declined to come ; but Hans, who was at .Proven, fifty miles to the south of Upernavik, was secured. A boat from the ship had to be sent for Hans, and, under the pilotage of Mr. Chester, he made the Polaris on the 20th of August. Mr. Ches- ter made this trip of a hundred miles, rowing, between noon of August 19th and eight p.m. of the 20th. Captain Hall appears to have had very decided premonitions of disaster, from the fact that he left here in charge of Inspector Smith a quantity of valu.ible papers relating to his second expe- dition, and particularly to his search for Sir John Franklin — an extraordinary step to take under the circumstances, as his object in taking them with him was to write them up for publication on his return. Why Captain Hall studiously avoided all allusion to the dis- sensions on board — why he even compliments the " material" of the expedition, when he was all the while suffering from inso- lence and disaffection — can only be explained by his idiosyncrasy, which enabled him to sink evenj thing else in the one idea of pushing on to the far north. He dreaded nothing so much as being de- layed, or compelled to return. He was willing to die, but not to abandon the expedition. Not being able to get deer-skins as he expected. Captain Hall procured supplies of seal and dog skins for extra clothing, which answers nearly or quite as well, except for boots. The last dispatch from Greenland received by the Secretary of the Navy from Captain Hall was dated at Tossac, and forwarded, through the courtesy of the Danish governor, by a vessel bound to Copenhagen. It was, however, too late for that year. The 138 arctic; expekien'ces. communication with Denmark is by an annual visit of a ship in the curly suinnier, which remains on the Greenland coa.st for a few weeks only, touching at diftercnt settlements, and then return- ing. When the following dispatch was written the vessel had sailed ; and there being no other means of sending it, a whole year elapsed before it could be forwarded, which was done on the next annual visit of the Danish ship. It was not received in rPBENAVIK. Washington until August of 1872, at which time Captain Hall had been nine months in his solitary Polar grave. The follow- ing is the dispatch : Position by my observation, lat. 73° 21' 00 " N. ; long. 56' 5' 45" W.— Hall. Urlted States Steamship Polaris, Tossac (or Tes-BU-l-sak), Greenland, August 22, 1871. Sir, — I have the honor to report my proceedings since the date August 20 and 21, of my last communication written at Upernavik. It was 8.30 P.M. of August 21, when we left the harbor of Upernavik, having on board Governor Elberg, of whom I made previous mention, and several of his people, DISrATC'II TO THE SECRETAHY OF THE NAVY. 189 kiound for this jilace o-i a visit. After Hteaining twelve miles to the northward and westward, we hauled up in front of a small island settlement, called KinK-i-toke, where Governor Elt)erg and myself, with a boat's crew, went aahoro to purchase dogs, furs, and other reiiuisites f»jr the expedition. Not a little was I clmgrined, at this place, to find the resident governor perfectly immovable in his purpose not to(orn|»iy v itii my tlesire to purchase some of his dogs, although he had many of the best sledge and seal dogs I had ever seen. All my ef- forts in liberal otlers and otherwise, combined witli the persuasive language of (iov- emor Elberg, failed to induce the honorable otKcial of King-i-toke to sell even a single one of his tine dogs. However, I was able, after considerable difficulty, to get from his people eleven dogs, to add to the number already possessed by the Polaris, Having spent two hours at Kiiig-i-toke, we retunied aboard, and at once (1 a.m. of August 22), resumed our voyage for Tossac, threading our way, by the aid of good native pilots, among the numerous reefs, rocks, and islands: with which Upernavik and vicinity abound. At 'i.'M) a.m. of fhe 22d we arrived at Tossac, hit. T.i^ 21' 18" N., long, ftti" W. At once I called on Jansen, and, to my astonishment and disap- pointment, found that a mistake had been made in any one of us expecting that his consent had been, or could be, obtained to leave his home at the present time ; * * * but at the same time he has the desire to do all he can in supplying the expedition with dogs, furs, etc. This desire, however, I find to be combined with a face of brass, for he charges unheard-of prices for his dogs, and will not deviate a hair, know- ing as he does, and as I do, that this is the last jilace, and the only j)lace, I can now depend upon with any hope of getting the supply to make up the number needed for our expedition. By tlie consent and co-operation of the Government authorities of Denmark res- ident in Greenland, I have concluded to contract with Hans Christian, by which he enters into the service of the United States North I'ole Expedition, as dog-driver, hunter, and servant, at a salary of l|;i(JU per annum. * * * His wife and three chil- dren are to accompany Hans. The prospects of the expedition are fine; the weather beautiful, clear, and ex- ceptionally warm. Every jireparation has been made to bid farewell to civilization for several ye. rs, if need be, to accomplish our purpose. Our coal-bunkers are not only full, but we have full ten tons yet on deck, besides wood, planks, and rosin in considerable quantities, that can be used for steaming purposes in any emergency. Never was an Arctic expedition more completely fitted out than this. The progress of the Polaris so far has been (juite favorable, making exceedingly good passages from port to port. * * * The actual steaming or sailing time of the Polaris from Washington to New York was sixty hours ; and from the latter place to this, the most northern civilization settlement of the world, unless there be one for us to discover at or near the North Pole, has been twenty days, seven hours, and thirty minutes. Had I known, on leaving New York, that the United States transport would be at Goodhavn, Greenland, as soon as the Polaris could reach that port, the Polaris Viould have been here in advance of the present time just eighteen days; but there is no cause of any regret— indeed, thi./e is every reason to rejoice that ever}- thing pertaining to the expedition, under the rulings of high Heaven, is in a far more prosperous and substantially successful condition than ever I have hoped or prayed for. Every effort we are making to get ready to leave here to-morrow. I will at the latest moment resume my place in continuing this communicatioo. 140 AllCTIC EXPERIENCES. Evening, August 23, 1872. We did not get under way to-day as expected, because a heavy, ilaik foj^ lius prevail- ed all day, and the Hume now continues. The venture of steaming out into a sea of undefined reefs and sunken rocks, under tlie present circumstances, could not be undertaken. The full number of dogs (sixty) required for the expedition is now made up. At the several ports of Greenland where we stopped we have been successful in obtaining proper food for the dogs. AuRust 24, 1 r.M. Th(( fog still continues, and I decide we can not wait longer for its dispersion, for a longer delay will make it doubtful of the expedition securing the very high latitude I desire to obtain before entering into wiiiter-(juarters. A good pilot has ottered to do his very best in conducting the Polaris outside of the most imminent danger of the reefs and rocks. * * * November, 1.30 p.m. The anchor of the Polaris has just been weighed, and not again will it go down till, as I trust and pray, a higher, a far higher, latitude has been attained than ever before by civilized man. Governor KIberg is about accompanying us out of the har- bor and seaward. He leaves us when the pilot does. Governor Lowertz Elberg has rendered to this expedition much ser\ice, and long will I remember him for his great kindness. I am sure you and my country will fully ai)preciate the hospitality and co-operation of the Danish officials in Greenland us relating to our North I'olar expedition. November, 2.16 P.M. The Polaris bids adieu to the civilized world. Governor KIberg leaves us, promising to take these dispatches back to Upernavik, to send them to our minister at ('openhagen by the next ship, which opportunity may not be till next year. God bo with us. Yours ever, C. F. Hall. Hon. Geo. M. RoiiisBOfi, Secretary of the Navy, Waehington, D.C. As we thus bid farewell to Captain Ilall, as he sails, with his bright hopes clouded by insubordination, but with a brave, un- daunted heart, northward to unknown seas, we drop the general narrative, and now take up Captain Tyson's notes of events as they occurred, going back a few days to recover some details of interest occurring between New York and the Greenland port. CAPTMN TYSON'S SOLILOQUY, 141 CHAPTER VII. NOTES BY CAPTAIN TYSON ON BOARD THE POLARIS. Captain Tyson's Solilociiiy on leaving Harbor.— A Thunder-storm.— Arrive at St. Johns.— Icebergs in Sight. — Religious Services on board the Polaris by Dr. New- man, of Washington. — Prayer at Sea. — Esquimau Hans, with Wife, Children, and "Vermin." taken on board,- Firing at Walrus,— The Sailing-master wants to stop at i'ort Foulk. — The Polaris \nisseH Kane's Winter-quarters.- An impassable Barrier of Ice,— Misleading Charts.— The open Polar Sea recedes from Sight,— Afraid of "Symme's Hole:'— Polaris enters Robeson Channel.— Surrounded by Icefields.- CJouncil of Ofticers.— Puerile Fears.— Sir Edward Belcher.— The Ameri- can Flag raised on "Hall Land."— Seeking a Harbor.— Repulse Harbor.— Thank God Harbor,— Providence Berg,— Housing the Ship for Winter-quarters. *^Jutte 29, 1871. As we left the Navy Yard and steamed to- ward the Sound, the vision of friendly faces from which I had just parted seemed to follow me with an intensity I have not always had time to realize. When acting as master the thoughts must be quickly withdrawn from all on shore, and concentrated on the business of the ship. But for once I find myself sailing without a designated position and toward unknown seas, and with leisure to think of the past and to anticipate the future. To observe others, instead of commanding them, is a new sen- .sation on leaving port, and I gave myself up to the novel em- ployment. "As we passed through the East River, with the great city of a million souls on my left, and half a million on the right, I could not help thinking how few of all these took any interest in our peculiar mission ; and of those who knew of the outfit of the Polaris, the majority, no doubt, thought we were wild and reck- less men, willfully going to our own destruction. But some there were who bade us God-speed— some large souls who could look through the danger to the honor, and who sympathized with that mysterious attraction which ever draws us on to seek the un- known. I hope this expedition will repay the cost and trouble of its getting up. " On we sail — the sunset behind us, the bright summer night 142 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. beckoning us to the familiar waters of Long Island Sound. Ilell Gate is passed, and all looks well for a good night. "e/wne 30. At 11 A.M. dropped anchor in New London harbor — so recently my home. Some of my old friends here will think I have started on a wild-goose chase. But as to that all depends on good management. If we have that, I think we can get farther north than any one has been yet. In the evening some members of the Baptist congregation came on board, and a religious service was held. I have heard that Captain Ilall always favored the cultivation of a religious sentiment among his ship's company. '^We remained at New London until Monday, July 8. When we left it was fine weather, but the next day we were surrounded with fog, which continued for three days. On the evening of the 3d, during the first watch, a great change came over the sky; dark clouds, changing every moment to a deeper blackness, were massed above the horizon to the south-west, and in almost less time than it takes to describe it the entire sky was covered as with a pall; a sudden rain-squall, with violent thunder and brill- iant lightning, quickly succeeded each other. The lightning seemed almost continuous, so incessant were the flashes. The very firmament was in a blaze from horizon to zenith, while peal after peal of deep reverberating thunder echoed and re- echoed across the sky like the cannonading of contending ar- mies. But the Polaris, undisturbed, moved serenely on her way. The storm continued until midnight, and then gradu- ally subsided. "The 9th being Sunday, service was held in the cabin, Cap- tain Hall taking occasion to remark that it was his intention, whenever weather permitted, to hold Sunday services. " The next day we sighted the coast of Newfoundland, encount- ering some loose flioating ice as we approached St. Johns. In the harbor, which we made on the 11th, were two good-sized icebergs. "I see there is not perfect harmony between Captain Hall and the Scientific Corps, nor with some others either. I am afraid things will not work well. It is not my business, but I am sorry for Hall : he is fearfully embarrassed. ^'■July 19. Bade farewell to St. Johns. In the evening a very fine show of northern lights commenced about 10 P.M., and con- tinued till past eleven. The sailing-master talked of resigning and going home, but matters have been smoothed over. ICEBERGS IN SIGHT. 143 "On the 26th we passed a heavy piece of ship's timber; it looked as if it had been a long time in the water — a piece of some wrecked whaler, I suppose. If it could speak, who knows what a romance it might have to tell? We are now well up to- ward Fiscanaes; ought to see the coast to-morrow. " Thursday^ July 27. Many icebergs in sight; a great many to the southward, and some to the east. Can see the coast plainly, lat. 63°. In the afternoon, about three o'clock, a native pilot came out in his kyack from Fiscanaes and boarded us; these fellows are very daring, and risk themselves in their little, dancing, feath- er-like boats far out of sight of land. "Only remained at Fiscanaes until the 29th, leaving at 3 A.M., '^m^ TUB FI8CANAKB PILOT. not finding Hans here, as expected. Weather delightful. A few hours later we passed Lichtenfels, a missionary station. In the latter part of the afternoon the weather changed ; a fresh breeze sprang up, and it commenced to rain. A heavy gale of wind from the south-west created much sea, and, darkness coming on, it was deemed prudent to stop the engine, as there was danger of running on bergs in the uncertain light; also shortened sail. The storm lasted about four hours. ^''Juhj 31. Reached Ilolsteinborg. Like most of the Green- land settlements, this is a small place. You can stand on the deck of the PoUiri^ and count not only all the houses, but almost all the people, for every one that can walk gets out to look at a ves- 144 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. sel in the harbor. Captain Hall thought he might perhaps find Hans here, but he was up to the northward. Left Uolsteinborg on the 3d of August, about 2 P.M., and next morning sighted Disco. Icebergs in plenty here. Many of them are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high. To those who see icebergs for the first time the size seems to make the greatest im- pression, but afterward the beauty of many of them keeps the eyes fascinated ; but to the Arctic sailor the permanent feeling is — look out ! there is danger ! Early in the afternoon we received a pilot, and at 3 P.M. of the 4th of August we cast anchor at Goodhavn. " Some one has been at the stores. Captain Hall told me he would not have any liquor on board; but Dr. Bessel procured an order for some for medical purposes, and the "thirsty" have found out where it is stowed. " On Sunday, August 6, went to church, which, considering the size of the place, was well attended both by resident Danes and Esquimaux. Here, I suppose, we shall wait for the Comjress, United States store-ship. Mr. told me that my commission would be sent out by her. After seeing what I have, it would suit me just as well if it did not come, for then I should have a decent excuse to return home. There is nothing I should like better than to continue the voyage if all was harmonious, and if each person understood his place and his proper duties. ^'■Aug. 10. United States store-ship Congress arrived from New York with provisions and coal. After storing the Polaris to her utmost capacity, the rest was landed at Disco, as a depot, in case the expedition should need it hereafter. Captain Daven- port and Eev. Dr. Newman, who came up in the Congress^ have had their hands full trying to straighten things out between Cap- tain Hall and the disaffected. Some of the party seem bound to go contrary anyway, and if Hall wants a thing done, that is just what they won't do. There are two parties already, if not three, aboard. All the foreigners hang together, and expressions are freely made that Hall shall not get any credit out of this expedi- tion. Already some have made up their minds how far they will go, and when they will get home again — queer sort of explorers these ! ^'■Aiig. 17. Captain Hall has purchased a number of dogs for our sledge -excursions. The Rev. Dr. Newman, of Washington, DIVINE SERVICE ON BOAKD THE POLARIS. 145 came aboard the Polaris and held a service, using the following prayer, one of three which he has written expressly for the ex- pedition : PRAYER AT SEA. " ' O God of the Innd and of the sea, to Thee we offer our humble prayers. The whole creation proclaims Thy wisdom, power, and goodness. The heavens declare Thy glory, and the firmament showeth Thy handiwork. Day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge. There is no speech nor language where their voice is not heard. And we thank Thee for the clearer and fuller reve- lation of Thyself to man in Thy precious Word. Therein Thou hast revealed Thy- self as our Sovereign and Judge. Thy law is perfect, converting the soul. Thy testimony is sure, making wise the simple. Thy statutes are right, rejoicing the heart. Thy commandment is pure, enlightening the eyes. Thy fear is clear, endur- ing forever. Thy judgments are true and righteous altogether. Although far from home and those who love us, yet we are not far from Thee. We are ever in Thy adorable presence ; we can never withdraw from Thy sight. If we ascend up into heaven, Thou art there ; if we make our bed in hell, behold, Thou art there ; if wc take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea, even there shall Thy right hand lead us, and Thy right hand shall hold us. Oh, help us to be ever conscious that Thou seest us, and knowest us altogether. Though the darkness may cove*- us, yet the night shall be li^^ht about us ; for the darkness and the light are both alike unto Thee. While on liie mighty deep, be Thou our Father and our Friend ; for they who go down to the sea in ships, that do business in the great waters, see the works of the Lord and his wonders in the deep. It is Thee who rais- eth the stormy wind which lifteth up the wave^; it is Thee who niaketh the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still. " 'Oh, hear us from Thy throne in glory, and in mercy pardon our sins, through Jesus Christ our Lord and Saviour. Give us noble thoughts, pure emotions, and generous sympathies for each other, while so far away from all human habitations. May we have for each other that charity that suffereth long and is kind, that en- victh not, that vaunteth not itself, that is not puffed up, that seeketh not her own, that is not easily provoked, that thinketh no evil, but that beareth all things, hopeth all things, endureth all things ; that charity that never faileth. " ' May it please Thee to prosper us in our great undertaking, and may our efforts at this time be crowned with abundant success. Hear us for our country, for the President of the United States, and for all who are in authority over us. And hear us for our families, and for all our friends we have left at home ; and at last receive us on high, for the sake of the gi'eat Redeemer. Amen.' "After the service we weighed anchor and steamed out of the harbor. The men on board of the Congress cheered us as we went off, and the most of us returned it. The weather is fine, but many icebergs are all around ; some nice steering is required to avoid running afoul of them, "Upernavik,^?^^. 18. Captain Hall, being disappointed about getting the deer-skins at Holsteinborg, has now to try and buy 10 146 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. dog-skins. They make up into very warm clothing, and are a great deal better protection against cold winds than almost any amount of our woolen clothing. Civilized clothing will keep off still cold, but it takes skins to protect against the searching Arc- tic winds. "Ilall now tells me that Davenport was prepared to take one party home in irons for his insolence and insubordination, but that another said he would leave if he did, and that then all the Germans of the crew would leave too ; and that would break up the expedition. Was ever a commander so beset with em- barrassments, from which there seems no way to free himself except by giving up all for which he has worked so long and so hopefully ? "p.m. Mr. Chester has got back with a nice load — not only Hans, but his wife and three children, with all his household goods, and skins alive with vermin. Hans, it seems, would not come without his family. "Yesterday several sections of our 'oil boiler' were ordered to be thrown overboard; so, when our coal gives out, we shall be unable to raise steam. " KiNGiTUK, Aurj. 21. We left Upernavik at 8 a. m., and ar- rived at this little settlement at 11. I'he captain could not get dogs enough at our last port, and hopes to find some here. The Governor of Upernavik, who came up on the Polaris^ intending to \fo as far as Tossac, accompanied the captain ashore — I suppose to 'nfluence the natives to sell their dogs. Succeeded in getting about a dozen, "ylw/7. 22. i. rrived at Tcssuisak, or Tossac; here Captain Hall completed his "ipply of skins and dogs — have got about sixty altogether; but ihe man Jansen, whom he hoped to get, would not come. He ha 1 grown too big ; he is governor (!), or some such thing, of this collection of huts. lie was a good man with Dr. Hayes. ^'Antj. 23. Can't get away for the fog. ^'■Aufj. 24. Sailed to-day. This is the last settlement we ex- pect to stop at. Now we may say we are at the entrance of our work. Only a few days more, and, if the ice does not beset us, we shall be through Smith Sound. ^^Aug. 27, Evening. We have reached lat. 78° 51' N., past Kane's winter-quarters. It was on Thursday, three days ago, that AN " IMPASSABLE BARKIER OF ICE." 147 we left Tessuisak. We steamed out after dark, and almost ran afoul of an iceberg, and afterward encountered a great many of them, and also considerable ice ; but the Polaris worked through very well. Yesterday saw a party of walruses on the ice ; fired at them, but they got out of the way. It is almost impossible to kill a walrus with a ball fired toward the front, unless the eye is hit. The skull is very thick, except on the crown of the head, which is a difficult point to strike. " The sailing-master wants the Polaris to go into Port Foulke and lie up ; then he can stay there and take care of the ship, and the others can go up north '.n sledges if they want to. But I am glad to see that Hall perseveres, and will have his way about that ; and indeed there is nothing to hinder. " One revelation after another. Seeing Captain Ilall very con- stantly writing, I asked him if he was writing up his Franklin search-book, about which he had often talked to me. He said, ' No ; I left all those papers at Disco !' I did not like to ask him, but I looked ' Why ?' A sort of gloom seemed to spread over his face, as if the recollection of something with which they were associated made him uncomfortable, and presently, without rais- ing his head, be added, ' I left them there for safety.' I saw the subject was not pleasant, and I made no further remark ; but I could not help thinking it over. " It was about half-past three o'clock to-day when we came up to Kane's winter-quarters of 1853-55, and this evening to the point where he abandoned the Advance. But he went much higher by land. "■Ang.2^. Last night, just before midnight, at which time it was my watch, Chester came down and reported that an ' impass- able barrier of ice' lay ahead of us. I went up; found the ves- sel had been slowed down ; met our sailing-master, who was in a fearful state of excitement at the thought of going forward. I went up aloft, and looked carefully around. There was a great deal of ice in sight, which was coming down with a light north- erly wind. It looked bad ; but off to the westward I saw a dark streak which looked like water, and I believed it was ; went down and reported to Captain Hall that the ship could skirt round the ice by sailing a little to the south, and then steering west-north-west. At this time the sun set about 11. p.m., and rose again by 1 a.m., so that it was nearly light all the time. 148 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. '' During my watch I got the vessel over to the west side, and found a passage of open water varying from one to four miles in width. During my watch below we reached Cape Frazier, in latitude about 80° N. The obstructing ice which we sailed round to avoid was very thick — from ten to forty feet — showing that it had been formed on the shore plateaus, or shoals, as no such ice ever forms in the open water. " We are now on the west side of the sound. It was from about here, I think, that Dr. Hayes traveled with dog-sledges up to 81° 35' N. I hope we shall get much farther. But there is one, at least, on board who thinks we have come too far already. Out on such cowards, I say ! I keep aloft much of the time. All the points about here are ivrong on the charts. Here Captain Ilall went ashore and coasted around a little in the boat. " Moved on again ; passed Carl Kitter Bay ; and when we got to Cape George Back the ice led us off to the north-east, and we crossed Kennedy Channel, and then over again to Cape Lieber, where we brought up in a fog about fifteen miles from land. Here a copper cylinder was thrown overboard, containing a rec- ord of our progress. We Lave now gained lat. 81° 35' N. CanH make any tlung out of the charts. As old Scoresby says, ' They are more of a snare than a guide.' But we are now at the head of Kennedy Channel, and ought soon to see Kane^s open sea ! "Still sailing north; some trouble working through the ice. Here should he the open sea, but there is land on both sides of us! To-day we have sailed into a bay which Morton and Ilans must have mistaken for a sea ; this bay lies to the eastward, inclining to south. Captain Hall calls it Polaris Bay. We are not deceived ; we have sailed right across it. It is not surprising that Morton made this mistake if it was foggy, for on many days one could not see across it; it is about forty -five miles wide. The land, though, is plain enough to be seen, for it is high, quite high land. " Still sailing on. We have now got into a channel similar to Kennedy's, only wider, and must be part of the water mistaken for the open sea. This channel is seventeen or eighteen miles wide, and obstructed by heavy ice. I hope we shall be able to get through, but it don't look like it now. I see some rueful countenances, I believe some of them think we are going to sail off the edge of the world, or into ' Symme's Hole.' But so far we see no worse than I have seen scores of times in Melville Bay PUERILE FEARS. 149 — ice. Captain Hall has called this new channel, after the Hon- orable Secretary of the Navy, Robeson Channel — a good name : without the good-will of Secretary Robeson we should not have been here ; and if the Polaris should get no farther, her keel has plowed through waters never parted by any ship before. **^?/^. 29. Surrounded by ice-fields, and a thick fog has set- tled down on us ; all last night working through the ice, but fear we shall get no farther. Ilave had to fasten to a floe untii about 7.30 P.M., when we made a lead near the eastern coast, in hopes to find a harbor here. A second cylinder has been thrown over- board. Went ashore in the boat with Captain Hall, and exam- ined a bight inshore to see if it would do for a harbor. No pro- tection ; would not do. The ice is pressing heavily upon the sides of the Polaris. The captain has ordered a quantity of provisions to be taken out and put on the ice. ^^Aug.ZO. Put the provisions aboard again; drifting out of Robeson Channel to the south-west, wind from the north-east Steamed in under the land, and came to anchor behind some bergs. It is blowing a gale. " Sept. 1. Unshipped the propeller to save it from injury. " Sept. 2. Captain Hall requested Captain Buddington, Mr. Chester, and myself to come into the cabin ; wanted to consult about attempting to proceed farther north. Mr. Chester and I wanted to go on as far as it was possible to get, but the senior of- ficer was opposed. I could have told that before. He was very set, and walked off as if to end the discussion. Captain Hall fol- lowed him, and stood some time talking to him. After a while Captain Hall come toward us, and ordered us to see to the landing of some provisions. I said nothing more, neither did Chester. " These puerile fears remind me of Sir Edward Belcher's ex- pressions when discussing the possibility of M'Clure and Collin- son having ventured into the Polar Sea north of the Victoria Ar- chipelago. He says : ' If they entered the Polar Sea on the range of these islands, with comparatively open water for one hundred miles, they might drift to and fro for years, or until they experi- enced one of those northern nips which would form a mound above them in a few seconds! The more I have seen of the action of the ice — the partially open water and the deceitful leads into the pools— the more satisfied I am that the man ivho once ven- tures off the land is in all probability sacrificed!' That man, and 150 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. all like him, ought to have staid at home. The channel was at that very time open to the north-east, and we could have gone on, ^^Eveninrj. This afternoon Captain Hall spoke to me again about our going north. Ue seemed to feel worried. I told him that I should gain nothing by it, but that it would be a great credit to Jam to go two or three degrees farther. He appears to be afraid of offending some one. I don't speak all my mind ; it might be misapprehended, and mistaken for self-interest. God knows I care more for the success of the expedition than I do for myself. But I see it's all up, and here we stop. Have ascer- tained that the highest latitude made by the ship was, by dead reckoning, 82° 29';* but we have drifted nearly a degree since then. '"'■Sundaij. Our usual Sabbath service in the forenoon. Snow- ing to-day. Can scarcely see the land, though so close to it. ">SS?^9^4. This morning there was water making all around; every thing to be got aboard again ; and the shipping of the pro- peller again was not so easy, as it was all frozen over ; but at last it was got into position, and in the evening got up steam, and tried to work nearer inshore to the water. About 11 p.m. we had got through, and free of the ice. Lowered a boat, and I went with Captain Hall ashore to examine the place for a harbor. ''^Sept. 5. At midnight, last night, Captain Hall raised an Amer- ican flag on this land — the most northern site on which any civil- ized flag has been planted. When it was run up, Captain Hall pro- nounced that he took possession 'in the name of the Lord, and for the President of the United States.' He then returned on board, and we let go the anchor at half-past twelve, low meridian, on the 5th of September. Tiiis place, which we had examined, was only a bend in the coast, and afforded no protection as a har- bor; we therefore steamed through the open water, and resumed our search to the southward; but not finding any better place, we returned to our former anchorage, and began immediately to land provisions again ; snow still falling. Captain Hall named the bight we examined 'Kepulse Harbor.' " On the 7th of September we weighed anchor and steamed in nearer to the shore. There was some discussion as to going over to the west side to look for a harbor, but the sailing-master de- * Subsequently corrected. Real latitude, 82' 16'. THANK GOD IIAHBOU. 151 clared she should not move from there, and so Captain Hall gave up. We have now brought the ship round behind an iceberg, which is aground in thirteen fathoms of water. This iceberg is about four hundred and fifty feet long, three hundred feet broad, and sixty feet high. Our latitude, by observation, 81° 38' N., long. 61° 45' W. We had been, I should think, nearly fifty miles farther north, but the current had set us down. We are now preparing to put permanent stores on shore, so that if the vessel gets nipped we shall have something to depend on, ^''Sunday. After service thi'=- morning. Captain Hall announced that he would name our winter-quarters Tliank God Ilarhor, in recognition of His kind providence over us so fur. lie also named the iceberg to which we fastened 'Providence Berg.' Came near having an explosion the other day, when coming into harbor, by the fireman neglecting to feed the boilers; just dis- covered in time. 'SSt^j/. 11. Commenced housing the ship with canvas, and, after the ice becomes strong enough, we shall bank her up. lOE UBEAKIMO UP. 162 ARCTIC EXl'EUIENCES. CHAPTER VIII. A IIunting-party.-A cold Survey.— Description of ("oast-hills. — A Musk-ox shot. — Landing Provisions. — Arctic Foxes. — Captain Hall prepares for a Sledge-jour- ney. —Conversation with Captain Tyson.— Off at last.— Captain Hall "forgets something," — Twenty "somethings." — The Sun disappears. — Banking the Ship. Dr. Bessel and Mr. Chester, with Joe and Hans, went off to- day on a hunting-excursion. Shot a musk-ox and some hares. These hares in winter are almost entirely white, having but a small black spot near the ears, and they can cover even that spot POLABIB AT OAPK lUPTON— WIMTEB-tllTAETEBS, 18T2-'73. with their ears. In consequence of their being colorless like the ice and snow, they can not be readily distinguished if they keep still. The ice, which had been broken up by a southerly gale, is beginning to pack. " Sept. 16. To-day has been the most wintry-feeling day we have had. This morning Mr. Bryan, Mr. Meyers, and Mauch went out to make a survey. They got to a mountain about fif- teen miles off in a south-east direction, intending to start a base- line from it; but they returned, between one and two o'clock, nearly frozen, as they had broken through some thin ice and got wet; there was a sharp wind, which helped to discomfit them. ESQUIMAUX RELICS. 158 Have been out to see what this country is like where wc must spend our long winter nights. The coast-hills are very high — from nine to thirteen hundred feet or more in height — and the great scars and cracks in the rocks look as if wind and weather, frost and ice, and sudden changes of temperament, had done their worst with them ; at the base of these rocks there is a large amount of dt-bris — stones and sand, great scales from the rocks which have been split off by the frost Off to the south there is a large glacier, which sweeps round in a wide circuit and falls into the bay north of us. There was no snow on these hills when we came to anchor here; what fell the first few days ran off and dried up fast. The mountain ranges which we can see in the interior, so far as I can tell, were also clear of snow; and the land, this 20th of August, is bare, except what eun be distin- guished of the distant glacier, which is white. The soil very rapidly absorbs any moisture. The hot summer has heated the ground so that the snow does not lie. The soil is a light clay. " This bay of Thank God Harbor is about twelve miles long and nine wide. The Polaris lies at lat. 81° 38'. "Esquimaux have evidently lived here; saw their traces to- day ; circles of stone, indicating where their tents had been placed; but we have seen none of them. Perhaps they used to come here in the summer, and have now emigrated permanently to the south. Have found some spear-heads made of walrus teeth, some pieces of bone, and other little things which only Esquimaux use. All we pick up we give to Dr. Bessel. The landscape is all of a dull neutral tint — a sort of cold gray. It will soon be all of one color, and that white. The frame-work of the observatory which was set up had to be strengthened and braced ; the wind almost blew it down. " Sept. 23. A large halo round the sun. We shall probably have a change of weather soon. " Sundcvj. Mr. Bryan read a sermon and one of Dr. Newm^an's prayers. Mr. Bryan is quite a favorite aboard, and deservedly so. He never makes any trouble. " Dr. Bessel and the natives have returned from their hunting excursion. They took with them a sleigh and team of eight dogs. Hans is driver. The first part of the week they had fine weather, but encountered a stiff gale on Friday — the same which 154 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES, almost shook down the observatory. They have brought home the greater part of a musk-ox which they killed. The dogs which draw the sledges are taught to bay these oxen, and keep them at a stand us they do the bears. One of the dogs had been thrown, but not much hurt. The musk-ox has been reported by some writers to be extinct, but it seems they are not here; and Captain Ilall certainly found them plenty west and north of Hud- son Buy in 1865. The flesh of this one was good, and did not taste of musk in the least — very much like other beef The meat, head, and skin weighed over three hundred pounds. As they stand, some of them will weigh twice that. The Labrador musk- ox is so strongly permeated with the flavor of musk as to be scarcely eatable. " Sept. 24, Eveyiing. Captain Ilall has a very pleasant way of getting along with the men ; they were highly pleased with some remaiks he made to them on Sunday, and have got up a letter of thanks, which they sent into the cabin. It was very well worded. I have no copy of it, but this was Captain Hall's reply : " • United States Steamship Polaris, C. F. Hall commanding. " ' Sirs, — The reception of your letter of tlmnks to ine of this date I aclvnowledge witli 11 heart that deeply feels and fully appreciates the kindly feeling that has jjrompt- ed you to this act. I need not assure you that your commander has, and ever will have, a lively interest in your welfare. You have left your homes, friends, and coun- try ; indeed you have bid a long farewell for a time to the whole civilized world, for the puri)ose of aiding me in discovering the mysterious, hidden parts of the earth. I therefore must and shall care for you as a jjrudent father cares for his faithful children. Your commander, '"C. F. Hall, •"United States Nortli Polar Expedition, In wintcr-qiiartcrsi, Thank God Harbor, Lat.81°38'N.,loug.Cl°44'W. Sept. 24, 1871.' ^^S^pt. 27. At 11 A.M. commenced a violent snow-storm, which has continued all day. This afternoon at 4 p.m. the ice broke up and packed. We must expect winter weather soon, 'TAl 1. The snow-storm which commenced on the 27th of September continued for thirty-six hours, and the following day the pack-ice crowded against the ship badly. She ought to be sheared up and banked. All day yesterday a strong gale from the north-west. Weather fine to-day (Sunday). Hour of service changed from 11 A.M. to 8.30. "Oc/. 2. In consequence of the pressure of the ice, a considera- ble quantity of provisions have been taken ashore. To-day they PREPAKING FOR A SLEDGE-JOURNEY. 155 were all covered up with snow, and some of the men are ordered to haul them off the flat ground and place them under the lee of a hill. There ought to be a house built to shelter them. Some seals have been seen, and some of the men have been out hunt- ing for them, but they got none ; and a white fox which they saw also escaped them. These Arctic foxes seem the most cunning an- imals I ever saw. It is very difficult either to shoot or trap them. " Try to do a little reading and writing, but the light is very weak now. The sun makes us but short visits. The ice is now so well hardened that Captain Ilall is talking of preparing a sledgc-party to go north. *'0c^. 3. Captain Hall is feeding the dogs up, and looking over his things to decide what he will take. Had a conversation with Captain Hall, lie told me that he would like to have me go with him, and then he stopped, and, pointing to the sailing-mas- ter, said, ' but I can not trust that man. I want you to go with me, but I don't know how to leave him on the ship. I want to go on this journey, and to reach, if possible, a higher latitude than Parry before I get back.' I told him '1 would like to go; but, of course, I was willing to remain and take what care of the ship 1 could.' I did not tell him how much I wanted to go. "Oc<. 6. Preparations still going ca for the sledge-expedition. Captain Hail told me to-day that he would take Chester with him instead of me, giving as his reason ' that, if the vessel should break out, it would be better for me to be aboard to assist the sailing- master.' lie has been having every thing weighed, so as to know exactly what weight the dogs will have to carry, and what rations to allow themselves. Been examining the dogs' harness, and preparing extra lines. It seems slow work. '^Oct. 10. Every thing ready at last; they will get started to- day at 12 M. There are two sledges ; each sledge has seven dogs : Captain Hall and Joe in one sledge, and Mr. Chester and Ilans in the other. This journey, I understand, is merely preliminary to a more extended journey in the spring. lie wants to get a gen- eral idea of which will be the best route; he hopes to find some better way than over the old floes and hummocks of the straits. ^^Evening. Saw Captain Hall well on his journey; went with some of the men, and helped haul the heavy laden sledge up the steep hill. They drove off the plains to the eastward, a little north by east. I watched them as long as I could see them, and 156 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. OAFTAIN hall's BLEDOB-JOUBNBr. hope he will have a safe and successful trip ; but after all the time spent in preparing and packing, I have no doubt he has for- gotten something ; he is rather peculiar that way. "Od. 11. As soon as this snow-storm is over, I shall try and get material to build a house ashore to put our stores in ; other- wise we shall have to dig them out of the snow whenever they are wanted. Hans has returned with a letter from Captain Hall ; it seems he has forgotten, not one thing, but several, and is now waiting five miles off for Hans to return with them." [A copy of the above letter or dispatch was found in the writing-desk of Captain Ilall, and was preserved on the ice-floe. We give it entire. — Ed.'] " ' Sir, — Just as soon as possible attend to the following, and send Hans back im- mediately : " 'Feed up the dogs (14) on the seal-meat there, giving each 2 pounds. " ' In the mean time order the following articles to be in readiness : " ' My bear-skin mittens ; " '3 or 4 pairs of seal-skin mittens (Greenland make); TWENTY "SOMETHINGS." 157 "' 8 fathoms lance warp ; "' 20 fathoms white line, for dog lines ; "' 1 pair seal-skin pants, for myself ; •'' 12 candles, for drying our clothing; "'' Chester's seal-skin coat ; " ' 1 candlestick, 1 three-cornered file, 4 onions; "' 1 snow-shoe ; " ' 1 cup, holding just one gill ; " ' 1 fire-ball, and the cylinder in which it is (this hangs up in my office) ; " ' Have the carpenter make, quick as possible, an oak whip-handle, and send the material for 2 or 'A more ; " 'A small box that will hold the 1 pound of coffee which I have ; " 'A small additional quantity of sinew; " 'Try and raise, if possible, 2 pairs of seal-skin boots that will answer for both Chester and myself. " 'The traveling we found very heavy yesterday, the snow being veiy deep, and just hard enough to allow ourselves, the dogs, and the sledge to break through at ev- ery step. We were three full hours in making the first two and a half miles from the ship. The dogs, being poor and weak, were more disposed to lie down and take a nap than to work, but the whip, swung by the energetic iirm of our excellent dog- driver, " My Joe," at length warmed them up, so that after a fashion we accomplish- ed a hard day's work, but only the distance of five {'>) miles. These drawbacks and obstacles, however, are nothing new to an Arctic traveler. We laugh at them, and plod on, determined to execute the service faithfully to the end. "'Have Mr. Bryan compare my watch with chronometer D; then, by a good watch-guard attached to it, suspend it to the neck of "Hans," having the watch next his wann bosom. '"Do not omit sending my bear-skin mittens, which I left behind by mistake. " ' Have Hannah make a small watch-bag to suspend to my neck, then place the same on Hans's neck, with the watch in it. " 'Tell Dr. Bessel to be very mindful that the chronometers are all wound up at just the appointed time every day. " 'Willie Hans is absent, we are to go on a hunt for musk-cattle. Hasten Hans back without the loss of a moment. " 'I should have sent Hans back last night, but I desired to first know that our company apparatus was all complete. The "Conjuror"* works well. May God be with you all. Respectfully, C. F. Hall, " ' Commanding; North Polar Expedition, in snow hut B miles east of Thauk God Harhor, on sledge-journey toward the North Pole, and on a mnsk-ox hunt. October 11th, 1871, Oh. 25m. a.m. " 'You wil. preserve this carefully, as I have not the time to copy It now. Tell Hannah and little Puney to be good always. H. " 'S. O. BuDDiNQTON, Sailing and Ice Master, North Polar Expedition.' " "Od. 17. Our sun has set behind the mountains, and we shall not see him again this winter from the ship ; we might, no doubt, by going to the top of the hills, see the upper limb for two or * A small stove, for use in traveling. 158 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. three days longer; but their great height cuts him off from the ship. Have commenced banking up the ship with snow, to keep out the cold. Want to get all snug and taut before Captain Hail returns. Set some of the men to fixing up the canvas housing, covering in a portion of the deck, and making it almost as tight as a room. The twilight deepens, and we have but a few hours which can be called daylight. Yesterday (19th) it was exceed- ingly cold, and blowing such a gale that the men had to stop work on the banking, and get inside. '■'■Oct. 21. The banking is not finished yet, but we have got the deck housed in, and we now creep in and out through a small opening. Been to work making a house on shore; I made it out of hard- wood poles; tried to get some lumber out of the ship, but could not, though there was some aboard. UOTUIU lUEiiEBO. CAPTAIN HALL'S RETURN. 159 CHAPTER IX. Putting Provisions ashore. — Return of Cnptuin Hall. — "Prayer on leaving the Sliijis." — Ciij)tain Ilali taken .Sick. — What was seen on his Sledge-journey.— Apo- plexy ?— M'f'lintock's Engineer — Death of Captain Hall. — A strange Remark. — I'reparing the Grave. — The Funeral. — "I walk on with my Lantern." — Thus end his ambitious Projects. "All the stores on shore, coal, clothing, guns, ammunition, ap- parel, and a portion of every thing which we should most need, are being packed in my little house. It could have been made stronger if I had the lumber, but the poles do tolerably well. "Oc/. 24. Still engaged in banking; it is heavy work, as we are making the bank about ten feet thick. '^AJhrnoon. Captain Ilall and the rest returned to-day about one o'clock; all well, and have lost no dogs. Have been gone just two weeks. Captain Hall looks very well. They expected to go a hundred miles, but they only went f.fty. I saw them coming, and went to meet them. Captain Hall seems to have enjoyed his journey amazingly. lie said he was going again, and tliat he wanted me to go with him. He went aboard, and I resumed my 'banking.'" [Among the articles found on the ice-floe was a small private desk of Captain Hall's, Vv'hich Esquimau Joe took charge of. In this was found a small book of nine pages, containing the three prayers composed for the use of the expedition by Dr. Newman. On the outside it was indorsed : "C. F. HALL. "Thank God Harbor ; lat. 81° 38' N., long. 61° 44' W." On the upper margin of the first page was penciled, " By Dr. Newman, for the North Polar Expedition." The second prayer, "on leaving the ships," was indorsed as follows, in Captain Hall's handwriting: "Read 1st time Oh. irm. to 6h. r.Om. a.m., Tuesday, Oct. 17, 1871, in our snow- house, .5th enct. (encampment) on the New Bay. Lat. N., long. W. ''Oct. 90, 1871. Read a.m., 7h. Om. at our Gth enct., N. side entrance of what I now denominate Newmuu Buy, after Rev. Dr. Newman, the author of the three prayers of this book." 160 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. The third prayer, which was to have been first used at the North Pole, will be found in the Appendix. The second we give entire. — EdJ] PRAYER ON LEAVING THE SHIPS, "Almighty Father in Heaven, Thou art the God of all ages, climes, and seasons. Spring and autumn, summer and winter obey Thy command. In the tropics Thou dost cause the sun to send forth Hoods of light and heat upon plain and mountain, until the earth bums like a furnace ; and here in this far-oft' northern clime Thou givest snow like wool and scattereth the hoar-frost like ashes. Who can stand be- fore Thy cold ? But Thou art our shelter from the stormy blast, and our cover from the storm. " We return Thee hearty thanks f(jr our safe and prosperous voyage over the great deep ; and now as we leave our ships, be Thou our guide and protection while we traverse these mountains of ice. As unto Thine ancient people through the wilder- ness so may it please Thee to be unto us, as a cloud by day and a pillar of fire by night. We are here to explore the unknown regions of our earth, to enlarge the scope of human knowledge, and advance the best interests of mankind. Others have perished in the noble but perilous attempt, but may it please Thee to preserve us amidst dangers seen and unseen, and bring our labors to a successful termination. Grant us health of body, vigor of mind, and cheerfulness of soul. Save us from doubts and fears and all misgivings. May our courage never forsake us, nor our resolution falter for a moment. Send us the inspiration of Thy Spirit that will give us warmth of soul and gladness of heart amidst these ice-bound regions. " He pleased to suggest to our minds the direction we should take, and point out to us tiie path which will lead us to the desired destination, that our hearts may be glad and rejoice in the consummation of our plans. " Helj) us to be kind and true to the people of this distant land, that they may learn of Thee and of a better civilization by our deportment and example, and espe- cially of that Divine Christianity which is the hope of the world. " Unto Thee, Almighty Father, we offer our prayers for the health and happiness of the dear ones at home, who arc now thinking of us, and may we meet them again in peace and safety. "Pardon all our sins, we humbly beseech Thee; keep our minds in perfect peace, and at last, when life is over, may we behold Thee in Tiiy glory in Heaven, for the sake of Christ our Redeemer. Amen." "Oc^. 24, Evenirig. I kept at work till it was too dark to see, and then came aboard. Captain Hall is sick ; it seems strange, he looked so well. I have been into the cabin to see him. He is lying in his berth, and says he feels sick at his stomach. This sickness came on immediately after drinking a cup of coffee. I think it must be a bilious attack, but it is very sudden, I asked him if he thought he was bilious, and told him I thought an emetic would do him good. He said if it was biliousness it would, Hope he will be better to-morrow. "Oc^, 25. Captain Hall is no better. Mr. Morton and Mr. CAPTAIN HALL DELIRIOUS. 161 Chester watched with him last night; they thought part of the time he was delirious. ^'■Eieniiirj. Captain Ilall is certainly delirious; I don't know what to make of what he says. lie sent for me as if he had something particular to say, but — I will not repeat what he said; I don't think it meant any thing. No talk of any thing in the ship but Captain Hall's illness; if it had only been 'the heat of the cabin,' which some of them say overcame him, he could have got out into the air, and he would have felt better. I can not hear that he ate any thing to make him sick; all he had was that cup of coffee. "Chester has been telling me about this sledge-journey. He says they went up to the large bay we saw to the eastward of Robeson Strait, and they have discovered a lake and a river. They went up on to the top of an iceberg near the mouth of this nver, where they could overlook the lai'ge bay. From its south- ern cape to its head it is thirty miles long. He says Captain Hall has named this southern cape after Senator Sumner; the bay itself after Dr. Newman ; and the north cape after Mr. J. Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn." [Here he wrote his last official dispatch. — Ed.'\ " There was plenty of open water all around, and they could see the seals at play. The ice in the strait itself was moving, so they did not venture on it. They made six camps on the way, and halted at Cape Brevoort, where they could see about seventy miles farther to the north. Captain Hall thought their eyes took in land as far north as 83° 5', but they could not be sure of any thing at that distance, unless it was some very high mountain or a familiar landmark. Where they stopped last, at their sixth encampment, it was too hilly for the dogs to go any further. "Joe built snow-huts for them, and they did not find it very cold ; they saw musk-ox and the tracks of bears and wolves ; and have seen foxes and rabbits, geese, partridges, and other birds; so that Captain Hall is quite encouraged, thinking that, when he goes again, their party can depend on getting game to help subsist on. Joe shot some seals at their very last encamp- ment. Mr. Chester says that Captain Hall wrote a record, and put it in one of the copper cylinders, which was left at Cape Brevoort, digging down and covering it up with stones. The weather was warmer than it is here. 11 162 ARCTIC EXPEUIENCES. "iVby. 1. Captain Ilall is a little better, and has been up, at- tempting to write; but he don't act like himself — he begins a thing, and don't finish it. He begins to talk about one thing, and then goes off on to something else: his disease has been pro- nounced paralysis, and also apoplexy. I can't remember of any one dying of apoplexy in the north except Captain M'Clintock's engineer, and he died very suddenly ; went tv> bed well at 9 p.m., and was found dead in his state-room in the morning. I always thought that might have been heart disease. Hope the captain will rally, "iVoy. 3. Captain lEall very bad again. He talks wildly — seems to think some one means to poison him ; calls for first one and then another, as if he did not know who to trust. When I was in, he accused and of wanting to pois- on him. When he is more rational he will say, ' If I die, you must still go on to the Pole ;' and such like remarks. It's a sad affair; what will become of this expedition if Captain Hall dies, I dread to think. "iVby. 5. No change for the better — w^orse, I think. He ap- pears to be partially paralyzed. This is dreadful. Even should he recover his senses, what can he do with a paralyzed body ? "A^oi'. 8. Poor Captain Hall is dead; he died early this morn- ing. Last evening Chester said the captain thought himself that he was better, and would soon be around again. But it seems he took worse in the night. Captain Buddington came anc^ --'Id me he ' thought Captain Hall was dying.' I got up immedj -ioly, and went to the cabin and looked at him. He was qu'.te unconscious — knew nothing. He lay on his face, and was breathing very heavily ; his face was hid in the pillow. It was about half-past three o'clock in the morning that he died. Assisted in preparing the grave, which is nearly half a mile from the ship, inland ; but the ground was so frozen that it was necessarily very shallow ; even with picks it was scarcely possible to break it up. "A^oi'. 11. At half-past eleven this morning we placed all that was mortal of our late commander in the frozen ground. Even at that hour of the day it was almost dark, so that I had to held a lantern for Mr. Bryan to read the prayers. I believe all the ship's company was present, unless, perhaps, the steward and cook. It was a gloomy day, and well befitting the event. The place also is rugged and desolate in the extreme. Away off, as :i II I ,ii ,. ", 'nil iiil|l 'II ■,' " I ''iii ,'.!ii:i 'i THE FUNEKAL PROCESSION. 165 far as the dim light enables us to see, we are bound in by huge masses of slate roek, which stand like a barricade, guarding the barren land of the interior; between these rugged hills lies the snow-covered plain; behind us the frozen waters of Polaris Bay, the shore strewn with great ice-blocks. The little hut which they call an observatory bears aloft, upon a tall llag-stafi", the only cheering object in sight; and that is sad enough to-day, for the Stars and Stripes droop at half-mast. "As we went to the grave this morning, the cofTin hauled on a sledge, over which was spread, instead of a pall, the American Hag, we walked in procession. I walked on with my lantern a little in advance ; then came the captain and officers, the engineer, Dr. Bessel, and Meyers; and then the crew, hauling the body by a rope attached to the sledge, one of the men on the right holding another lantern. Nearly all are dressed in skins, and, were there other eyes to see us, we should look like any thing but a funeral cortege. The Esquimaux followed the crew. There is a weird sort of I'ght in the air, partly boreal or electric, through wliich the stars shone brightly at 11 A.M., while on our way to ■'•. ave. "uL's end poor Hall's ambitious projects; thus is stilled the selng enthusiasm of as ardent a nature as I ever knew, c might not always have been, but his soul was in this \^.il; and had he lived till spring, I think he would have gone us far at- mortal man could go to accomplish his mission. But with his death I fear that all hopes of further progress will have to be abandoned. i l(je AliCTIC EXrEIllENCEb. CHAPTER X. l^aptain Tiuililington passes to the Command. — Scientific Obsen-ations. — The first Aurora of the Season. — Sunday Prayers discontinued. — Dr. Bessel Storm-bound in the Observatory. — Meyers to the He.^cue. — An Arctic Humcane. — Fast to the Icei)erg. — Sawing through the Ice. — Electric Clouds. — Pressure of Fioe-ice. — The Iceberg splits in two. — The Polaris on her Beam-ends. — Hannah, Haus's Wife, and the Children put Ashore. ''Captain' Bri)i)iN(iTON has passed to the command without question, it being understood by all that such was to be the case if Captain Hall died or wa.s disabled. •' Bad weather. Observations continue to be made by Dr. Bes- sel and Mr. Meyers on the temjMjrature, the force and vehxiity of the wind, the deviations of the cotnpxss, and whatever else the weather jwrmits. They work in the observatory. On board we make frequent obm'rvations on the tides; usually every hour, *>raetimes more frequently, I>r. Ik'!*.s<'l and Mr. Meyers say now tliat the highest hititude the ship reaehid w.-t** «2 W. ^' Suv. 15. Apf»«»arpd the iir.-«t aurora of th«' season, not very briiliaiit The laini to the east of ItilM-sttn Strait north of \V:wh- ingtoti I^anU w*- now i-ull 'llail's Uin«l.' Win is tin wiutlH r m KSaXlR and xttry eold. tiie !<•»• in lixlw^m ('harir»l n* partially ijo?** d. \m% with wery i»lr«>ng br< « /,*- that blows h ■ t..i juii. - •lAMMlBii. If w«» could ;;i't through orii' oi t^Miltgaas, w« \u.j-u' #»< A»0frfi wakr iit-youd. Thi* w4-ntli.r j« rrrr <»butij^i»J& A ^awpi of 'M* m a ft'w hmm m tuo. mwumuum The l«it jpk mm ill ii.i h«v« a »«iwto riif fci^^iwww mi!?'* nor Immm'. fVPB *wm qMNv |iRi^ WW wHmKKmf |wH ■■ w*-*! i i tBtna mtvm^ hm m ffif «i m^kwumm- : k mmmm » pUf to <#•* WKtHm mm V .JL^'m. miw 'lUiPPW' Vl^ 9-' -^^MPr mnrpMnMl^v WBf liPillnll W/mm ml^ PM «'df ^ 4iillilir fitiif « fej^glBtii Milii'iiiit^ iiiii'iinin bi^ jMMIIft ^Al agiliiig^ ^gdugli* STOUM-BOUND IN THE OBSKRVATOKY. 167 keep bim prisoner there too long. At half-past nine Mr. Meyers concluded to go and see if any thing had happened to him. It was with the utmost difficulty that he made his way up the hill toward the observatory. Several times he was driven back by the force of the storm. Joe and Hans offered to go with him ; and finallj', after an hour consumed in trying to get a few rods, they succeeded in reaching the house. It was well they went. Dr. Bessel had been without fire for eight hours, his coal having given out; and he had not dared, in the storm and darkness, to try and get to tiie ship for fear of losing his way. One of his ears was frozen. . . " Mr. Meyers got one of his eyelids frozen in the brief time he had been battling the wind and snow, and even Joe's right cheek was touciied. However, they all got back to the ship; and after Dr. Bessvd had had somt' warm coffee and food, and his ear at- tended to, he was all right again. This gale kept veering and backing between ejust and north, anather. "One of the men, IL'rman .Si«'man. going out to examine the tirrn and eurri»'«j ijuitt- a (ii«- tance, ami then thrown violently ufwin th give up. The miow drift wan a« blinding an the gala wui* f'uriouM; it hflji Nhak hiui \mh'u at micIi ^n« to biuid j.'M- ^-.y •!• .i mnk fully two f.it. *'-*^'. fl. Y- - i tm bnAic ttil around tu, t^ unow t kiUmg m» tfctt •#• wrtiUi mA mm omr erwdtiHm or Itow Uj> rmmdf iMjr thin, n w*- |Mit out mw*i r : h«t iImi fU|i MM ^Aarnr mmmA tiw bm§. Ttmurd tumm ^.tin- (if tkm atm mumntditiA in gtmm§ tii wttli tibr .m qf hmnt iii m tlwy III i I i im ii i t itmm «• • ikm ^ Hit wMMMMi wV IBW OTHIM.. W:. '.itf : . ''f^'4»f lk» mr wl krr liMiii ii i i §m. km vmj mii : (iw wkti hm mM- Whm «» imm *^ *>* wlnt limiigi lii tn^i M MMi^» INMM||| '^■Ir minj|p.» inl MM w uttf ttttitfjB HJ3 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. were lost — probabl;^ drifted away when the ice broke. Most of the do2r3 were foitunatclv on boan', having been brought in when the gale came on. " Aoi;. 25. Sawed an opening through the ice, so as to warp the ship round under better shelter toward the centre of the berg, as in our present position we are only protected in one direction. Moved her along one hundred and twenty feet, to the middle of the berg on its long side. "Last evening some electric clouds were observed — a shining white, and circular in form. There have been some seen before. '■^Suiahuj. There was a brief service held, but the announce- ment was made that attendance was not compulsory, though it was desirable that all should attend, ^fr. liryan would like the service to be regular, but 1 don't know who is head of the chap- Uiin's business now. "A'cr. 28. Fair weather and moderate temperature yesterday; but the latter part of tlie day the barometer fell gradually, and in the evening a snowstorm, with a gale, set in from the south — south by west. The tlartoil in two. \V«' swung to our anchors, but the (ihip was lorced Uj)on ttu; foot of the berg, which lay to the .south- went of ij.«4, shaking an)> onv* Awting on <]e *C *• The foot of the m'\y^'^^ Ih now pttttbeti lum^'aU* '. raining her two U'vi ami a half. Sent IJannaii and IInn»*ii wiA; with the to 1^ ofaieryatory tat aafety. Ako mmi mnw more wtHaoTP. in onw we htive to •«'■;•'■■ ''r- vf**,-}. Think Um 6oalil hs itMlfld ^, but nu u:-,. . If nhe in h§^ m ^Hi wftjr tke will gi^ llirtber Mid &rtl ii« apii run a w»pt? ewr * win? fr<«fn th«- whip u* the obiervaUiry, lo m lo guidt* him in tiw? darkm-**; anti it will be p«t up todAy. •' Thire are uceiMonal 4i»fday»« c»f nortlwrn lightu, but nm very Wilh«iit; )mv« Men a numUr of naHinUnff'mmk Ko ckwibt we mtm imtr*' thati w« nee. The Um mtmra, ftiPMibwr 10^ itfh pmm4 m ike fim« .^f m »fr mm ^ hMh aialwwtoy iteK W ^mm i niil i mm y» mtf^wmL Whmmm *m« it of • 'mmm rfMMM 9«f|r fhMf, htmmm tfwm m mmkinff lUI m m ^Mrnm^ tk* vImp. ewm^ m *• itiiiiiiiiii oT A« bMi, ind 170 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. • It is very dark now, but not totally dark. We shall soon reach the shortest day, and can then look forward to a blessed change from this gloomy, everlasting twilight; we can hardly tell day from night, and, if it was not for our time-pieces, should get sad- ly mixed up — the more so that there is so little regularity ob- served. There is no stated time for putting out lights; the men are allowed to do as they please ; and, consequently, they often make night hideous by their carousings, playing cards to all hours. *' Can not get away from the ship much ; it is too dark to go out of sight of the vessel, except for an hour or two at high me- ridian ; and, once away from the ship, the gloom and silence of every thing around settles down on one like a pall. There is no whistling of t*'t wind among the trees, for none of these exist here; and out on the open plain the wind strikes you without notice. There is nothing to be ruffled or disturbed by it, so that you ft-el it before you hear it, except you are near a gorge in the hill.s, between which it .sometimes comes roaring loud enough. "The other evening I had wandered away from the ship. di.«?- gusted with the confusion and noi.sc, and longing for a moment's (juiet. Once beyond range of the men's voices, there was abso- lutely no other sound wljat^ner. It wai4 quite calm : no wind, no movement of any living oreaturo; notliinj» but a leaden sky abf)VP, ice beneath my f»H't. an«l fii/tHre eivri/u/H'n-. It hunj? like a pall over every thinjr. So pninfully oppremiivi* did it Ix-com** tt last that I wan fn-quiritly ti'mpt«'«l to nhout aloml mywif. to bnmk Um i^sAL At Umlf i 4*tkg but. m F i mj^tm ^ame, not even Am4 rtw (wtf f mnre mm Ife kftr« ttiwl rmwoWen ami nUier fim-mrmm ndcfl at tkmm I have iM«t trnt^nm^ WHPfWm, Or PI'-ljl •^PBPIPia^ VW S^Hb A ■PHB'aK PREPARATION FOR CHRISTMAS. 171 he wished cleaned, was not only picked clean of every edible speck, but almost polished by the shrimps. '^'■Dec. 17. Another aurora reported last night ; very shifting and changeable. < ' • ■ - "i>ec. 18-24. Nothing occurring that is pleasant or profitable to record. I wish I could blot out of my memory some things which I see and hear. Captain Ilall did not always act with the clearest judgment, but it icas /icaven to this. I have not had a sound night's sleep since the 11th of November. Would he had lived till spring! - "Some preparations are being made for Christmas, and all hands, I hear, are to be invited into the cabin this evening. We have passed our shortest day, and that interests me most. If I can get through this winter I think I shall be able to live through any thing. Mr. Bryan does not say much, but I think he feels it as much as I do. He is naturally a gentleman, with the true instincts of right jiiid wrong. "No service on Christmas. The ship continues to rise and fall with the tide, her stem resting on the foot of the iceberg. At neap-tide the leak might Ixi repaired — gradually, if not all at once— by workifig a few hours at a time as tlie tide permit** ; but no ordfTH are given to atU'mjit it. *^J}tr. 28. A futile atu-mpt wm made Ut break tip the f«K)t of the berg by blui«tin^, but it wjw too Ktronjj. The amount of |K>wder necj'saary to blaMt it succeiwfully would endanger the nhip, an nhe ''Jan, !,t«72. Tlie flm day of thf nf*w year, and «Mi/hty days aiaee we lmv«* ««H»n thf *\m. Con«Ml«'ring Umj h'* •• ■■.•••i»«-«»n« <♦!<• flMMi of whit-h tluM i-x^M-dtiioii ;« ornpoatdl, r . .methinK to be tfuifikful for thM we all commt'tiotf Um> new year in giMMJ M)tl wttlt>Mit any <^ti a:id tick now l«dpdl itiiiiiunii iil. omMiilwniig^ im, vmm mmmmttmetm, I think remftrkablf . ff Hr. fkmu X mmH brsr tlM an(m|p4iiiiefrti be felt mtnxtVi' " Jlw. 1 Trwd tfM M i il ii if tpiH. wHk m htmt HMrik IRm *»Jkm. i 7. It ». fm 99mmf'§Bm hmm ^m^ hm hem » 172 AUCTIC EXPERIENCES. our dark days less gloomy. It is very cold ; the thermometer stands at 48° below zero. Some of the atmospheric phenomena are matters of dispute, or rather discussion, between the three members of the Scientific Corps: for instance, on the 10th in- stant, about 5 A.M., there was a bright arc observed in the sky, extending from the western horizon toward the east, and reach- ing up to the zenith ; it appeared to be about 12° from the Milky Way, and parallel with it. This continued only about an hour; but as it disappeared, there remained three cloud -like shapes of about the same brightness, resting near the zenith. x\t one time, some narrow, bright stripes were visible. Whether this was to be considered as a true aurora, or as some unique electrical phenomenon, was the query. "f/a/i. 17. The twilight toward the south-east is visibly in- creasing. How naturally every eye turns to that quarter, hop- ing to see the arc of light extended. '•«/«/i. 24. Can see water to ihe nortii, and perceive that the ice is not closed, but drifting in the strait. Dr. Bessel has been out this morning with two men and a sledge- team, to ascertain if the open water extended any great distance — for it is too dark to see far from the vessel, lie only made nine miles — to the north ; he couKl not get fartiier on account of tlie headland, or cape, being covered with smootii ice, over which the da.**K. Tlje ice w;u4 ilrifting with the current. *'./«»/*. 2*i. ^''■K^«•rday Mr. ClicsUr thought he wouM try. lie tc»ok four lutM with iiiin, and a >\>>/. draw the Mledges. lie thought he ^vjtsl.i gel ovuu( lo a.m.: i> 1 aljout four o'ek^ck V baffled tu* I)r. IkagrI bwl \tw\i. Within ite i.ust thnM* SI. A ▼IMHlaBoir iit4»nn the wind bhmtufi with hor- mti #Mi mmm m m VMlMit §am k m mfmiikh fi»r tlir mm to ii dmr : Ammktm, mmmMB to im^ tfw mmd ti«kl ^. 1. 1971. Qilft i»iii—ig : Imm ammmti m vdbmjr THE HEIGHT OF TIDES. 173 miles per hour. To-day I went over to Cape Lupton to see what I could make out. Cape Lupton is a bold headland, eighteen hundred or two thousand feet high. I managed to get to the top, and from that elevation saw that the ice was completely cleared out of the channel ; in fact, there was free water every- where except in the bay, the ship itself being firmly inclosed; but for eighty miles to the north, had we been in the channel, we could certainly have sailed in free water. "/fi. 2. The tide-holes have been cleared out, and the usual observations resumed. The tides vary from two and a half to seven feet eight inches. The highest spring-tide yet observed was seven feet eight inches ; the neap are from two and a half to three feet rise. . ^ •~-f«''-' t;?i " i*. . 174 AllCTlC EXPEiilENCES. CHAPTER XII. An impressive Discussion. — Daylight gains on the Night. — Barometer drops like a Cannon-ball. — Four mock Moons. — Day begins to look like Day. — The P'ox-traps. — Tlie Sun re-appears after an Absence of one humlred and tiiirty-five Days. — Mock Suns. — Si)ring coming. — An Ex])loring-pariy in Searcii of Cape Constitu- tion. — A Bear-tiglit with Dogs. — New light on Cartography. — Tired of canned Meat. "Last month sucb an astonishing proposition was made to me that 1 liave never ceased thinking of it since. The time may come when it may be proj)er for me to narrate all the circum- stances. It grew out of a discus.sion as to the feasibility and ex- pediency of attempting to get farther north ne.\t summer. My own opinion is that we ought to do all we can to carry out Caj)- tain Hall's wishes, and the just expectations of the Government and the country. If the 8ea.son Hh<»uld prove as favorable as it was last year, there is no reason why we should not reach the pole itsi'lf It would l)e a lasting disgraw; not to utilize to tlie utmost a ship tittctj out wiili such care and cxfK-nsi'. It is enough to make Captain Hall titir in UIm ic^-cold gruvt; to hcur aoiiiu uf the t^ilk that goes on. '*The laitt gale madi' wild work with UiMMlftnd the bcrgf<; at one time rlcaring tlx* Htniit of tli«' tioe-icf*, and driving it in a pack bc&irt; It. The KM'lxTgM have aliio been drivcii togi'thaf)ii m tf the very ice dttiiuttN liai'<'fi having one grand wt-t'». A not))) .- utt* inpt to L"-t through or OVW ^M billa to Uie north ; but Uie luKV party if"' r iIjmi tkm rmIL " f^»4,. Th Tl»*' diivlifcfht ii« lifginnifiif i'» garm n^pnrtiHi. «b*^ i 4i. 22. Day is beginning to look like day, or rather dawn. We do not see the stars any more in the middle of the day, but neither do we see the sun yet For over three mouths we have leen the stars in tiio day-time whenever thi; sky was unclouded, and the moon wh<'n it was not stormy. Much of that time the suirs were very bright and the ukhui also. "Sumlni/, f-'ih. 2'k No tH?rvice; walked over to Captain Ilalli KraTi'. Always Metm to walk lu that ilireetion. It is now get- tinj< no mueh lighter that we »hall be able U) do -oin.tliing, I hofM', iir»n. An yet, the hunting ban ainouiited t«i nolhin;; ; where there in water an« mmm mm kmn - P.kw 176 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. ^^ March 2. 43° below. Variable weather until Wednesday the 13th, which was very pleasant, and in which we had a repetition of the phenomenon of mock suns, instead of moons — a parhelia of three false suns surrounding the true, and in this case, two of the suns exhibited the primary colors. "The hunters are very persevering, but they bring in nothing. The animals have all migrated apparently either to the north or south; but probably, as the sun gains strength, we shall find something alive to repay our exertions. Since the appearance of tiie sun our nights are less dark ; it can hardly be said to be dark at all, but like a deepened twilight; and soon we shall not have even that. ''J/({/-cA 19. Have been removing the canvas housing from the ship. Since the sun has a^ipeared, it has been discovered that lantern light is very injurious to the eyes. It seems a little pre- mature, for I sec a storm coming up. ^' March 20. Last night a violent snow-storm. "J/«/vA21. Gale continues. " M'irch 22. Velocity of the gale fifty-three miles an hour. '■'■ Murrh 23. Clearing ofV. Sent to examine the fox-traps; one wiiite fox had been caught by the foot. The.*?*' traps have to be {)laced .some distance from the siiip. The fo.xes an? very wary, and readily scent v»' z<'ro to- the ncHttli, Ui examine tlw mxithcm f^m\—% fkm\ lying aliout twi-nty* eifrhi mil«i uratli of Polartii Bay — Dr. BeiiBifl, Mr Bryari. and 4o*». Timj Uikm ftinrtwii 40|^. an^i ' nUtwX Ui g»t aa fiv m C^pe " '^^ «tM«« Mm Ibr At iMi wMPNt ^Mfft' 1V# 'MMhI MBMI IMMW ! ;j3MR0. " S>nmiit% Mmtrk %%, flfffiaa i» it imMrt of tlir errw «# ^konmm : kttt«i «iM Ihmw wmA mn - ti^mim TbaM lania if«» AX EXPLORING TAliTY. 177 the soutbern birds; feathers all white, so that they are not easily seen, which is a great protection to them, but gives the gunner much trouble. " P.M. We were surprised to see Mr. Bryan and Joe coming back without Dr. Bessel ; thought some accident had happened to him. But it seems they had only broken their sledge, and had come back for another, the doctor remaining on a little island in the mouth of the fiord, where he had been made hajijiy by find- ing some petrifactions. They had left all the stores with him. ^^April 2. Yesterday Mr. Bryan and Joe, with Uans also, start- ed off with two sledges to rejoin Dr. Bessel. Weather continues fair, and we arc fitting up the boats for an exploring trip to the north next month. 1 think myself it would be better to go in .sledges ; for though there is open water there is also much float- ing ice, and I am afraid the boats will be stove. But J am ready to go any way that promises success, or chance it any way. '•''April 8. Quite an excitement to-day — the party from the fiord have returned, bringing with them a bear which Joe shot, and also a seal. One of the dogs had been injured in the fight with the bear, and is an object of great attention with the men. This is a very [)lucky dog, and is called 'Bear;' it seems that it took sev- eral severe blow.s from the pohir, wiiieh had made a better fight than they sometimes do. Another dog hud been thrown with such violence against an ice-hummock that it was left fur dead, but the next day whowed itself at their camp nearly recovered. "They have made some curiouH dineovrriea in regard to former narveya. Having eroHned the HOutljern (iord, which i.s al>out twenty-two mil<*i« wide, tlu-y traveled along ilu; ct>a.Ht for forty inileH in !*<,'areh of (Ja|»e Cor»«titutiot», but did not (ind it it i*i farther wiUth than it ih ftlactnl on the ehart: and a^ Dr. BesHcl repo! ii;/ ^'oiK' -(oiith of the intitudncIu •ively that tbefe was a mtiAake mad«' m xXw, iatituikt. Th<'y could m^" the ialand, }iow?ver, which litai *M Uw mifm hr to Um? tioiith. InUi ihe lint fiorci, whtch wi- ImkI mMtA dU * ii l« lliii n; they «mI4 mitt pMMlnlt wmm than lmmt§ miiai an mmmm of tlie nth wbk'h it waa filled ; but liaving mmtm^ #1 mmm et ^b«t, A^f mtM tm tliat tlw fl9«4 turmitiMMi m m m • tmtk I—