ARCTIC EXPERIENCES: 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 CAPT. GEORGE E. TYSOIS^'S 
 
 AVOXDERFUL DRIFT 0:N^ THE ICE-FLOE, 
 
 A HISTORY OF THE POLARIS EXPEDITION, 
 
 CRUISE OF THE TI0EES8, 
 AND RESCUE OF THE POLARIS SURVIVORS. 
 
 TO WHIOU IS ADDKn 
 
 A GENERAL ARCTIC CHRONOLOGY. 
 Edited by E. VAI^E BLAKE. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 
 
 FRANKLIN SQUARE. 
 
 18 74. 
 
' Ky I \j 
 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by 
 
 Harper & Brothers, 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
P R E F A C E „ 
 
 A LEADING object of this work is to present, in a popular form, 
 the entire history of the Polaris Exploring Expedition, not only- 
 giving the valuable results accomplished by it, but going deep 
 enough into causes to trace out the weak points in the organiza- 
 tion of the party — indicating, without fear or favor, those elements 
 of disintegration which were at work from the outset, calculated 
 to impair, though it could not wholly destroy, it^ efficiency. 
 
 The truth must be told, in order that succeeding expeditions 
 may avoid the errors which prevented the development of that 
 esprit de corps which is essential to the highest success of explor- 
 ing parties. 
 
 Notwithstanding its unfortunate features, the Polaris Expedi- 
 tion was not a failure, but a grand success; for though far more 
 and better might have been accomplished with a united and har- 
 monious company, we can proudly point to the record of the voy- 
 age, in its geographical achievements, os unrivaled ; nor do the 
 scientific results interest the world the less because of any cloud 
 resting upon any member of the expedition. 
 
 Whoever reads this book to the end will naturally be led to 
 ask, If so much could be accomplished by a divided and disaffect- 
 ed party, what might not be done by a united and properly dis- 
 ciplined body equally well equipped? 
 
 In regard to the personal experiences of Captain Tyson, the 
 natural reticence and modesty of that officer has compelled the 
 editor to underestimate and suppress much that is fairly due to 
 him ; and the reader is reminded that far more emphasis might 
 fairly be given to his share, in whatever of success was achieved 
 by the Polaris Expedition, but for this peculiarity of the Assist- 
 ant Navigator, 
 
 " Who, like a statue solid set, 
 And moulded in colossal calm," 
 
 appears quite unaware that he has done any thing extraordina- 
 ry, or more than what any right-minded, honest man would have 
 done under the same circumstances. 
 
a PREFACE. 
 
 All the original data possessed by Captain Tyson (except his 
 journal written on the Polaris, which was left on board at the 
 time of the separation) was placed in the hands of the editor, with 
 every necessary verbal explanation, before the former sailed in 
 the Tigress. During the interval between his rescue and his re- 
 turn to the Arctic regions in search of the Polaris survivors, he 
 recompiled from memory and a few brief notes his lost journal, 
 and we are thus enabled to give it, with but slight verbal varia- 
 tions, from the original diary. 
 
 Captain Tyson's "Early Experience" will show that amateur 
 Arctic explorers, physically fitted for the work, may be found in 
 every whaling ship that sails. 
 
 In addition to the narrative portion, the introductory chapter 
 contains a general resume of Arctic experiences; and in the 
 chronology will be found epitomized all the principal events of 
 interest relating to previous and contemporary Polar expedition^, 
 adding greatly to the value of the work as a book of reference. 
 
 In accordance with the popular character designed, scientific 
 terms and mere details of work performed have been avoided. 
 These will be published in other forms, for the special benefit of 
 students and scientists. 
 
 In conclusion, we have only to express our thanks to those 
 who have kindly assisted us by supplying original documents, 
 official or other information, and facilitating our work by grate- 
 fully remembered courtesies. 
 
 Among those to whom we are greatly indebted are Hon. George 
 M. Kobeson, Secretary of the Navy; Hon. John G. Schumacher, 
 of Brooklyn; Prof Spencer 'r\ Baird, of Washington; Dr. I. I. 
 Hayes, of New York ; Mr, A chibald, British Consul at New 
 York; Col. Jas.Lupton, Washington, D.C. 5 Messrs. J. Carson Bre- 
 voort, and S. B. Noyes, of Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Messrs. H, E, Bond, 
 T. W. Perkins, E. W. White, and Mr. Barnes, of New London, Ct. 
 
 Others might be named but for whose kindly offices our labors 
 would have been greatly embarrassed ; and, if their names do not 
 illumine this page, they have none the less shed a bright and 
 cheering light on our progress from the earliest inception of this 
 work to its end, and their many courtesies will ever dwell in our 
 grateful remembrance. E. V. B. 
 
 Broolchjn, January 1, 1874. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY CHATTER. 
 
 The Northern Sphinx. — Arctic Nomenclature. — Geographical Mistakes. — The Ily- 
 j)erboreans. — The Pre-Columbian Era. — Frobi.sher's Gold. — Gilliert and Others. — 
 Henry Hudson. — Russian E.xplorers. — Government Rewards. — Early American 
 Enterprise. — Tlie Whaler Scoiesb*-. — Remarkable Land Journeys. — Combined Sea 
 and Land Explorations. — The Era of Modern Discoveries. — Pairy's Drift. — Steam 
 first used in the Arctic Seas. — The Magnetic I'ole fixed. — Back's Discoveries. — 
 Dease and Simpson. — Rae on Boothia. — Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition. — 
 Relief Parties. — A glorious Spectacle. — First Grinnell Expedition. — Ten Explor- 
 ing Vessels meet at Beechey Island. — Dr. Kane. — Rumors of Cannibalism. — The 
 J^roblem of the North-west Passage solved. — Bellot. — Obtuseness of the British 
 Naval Board. — Providential Mental Coercion. — Tiie Forlorn Hope. — Dr. Hayes. — 
 Profit and Loss. — What is the Use of Arctic Explorations? — Remote Advantages. 
 — Ancient Gradgrinds. — Arctic F.iilures and Successes. — Unexplored Area. — 
 Modern Chivalry. — A pure Ambition Fage ly 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 CAPTAIN Tyson's early arctic experience. 
 
 Captain Tyson's Reflections on the Ice-floe. — Nativity. — Early Life. — Ships as a 
 Whaier. — Death of Shipmate.— Arrives at the Greenland Seas. — The "Middle 
 Ice." — The "North Water." — First Sight of Esquimaux. — The Danes in Green- 
 land. — The Devil's Thumb. — Meets De Haven. — Whales and their Haunts. — A 
 prolonged Struggle with a Whale. — Sailors' Tricks. — Cheating the Mollimokes. — 
 Young Tyson volunteers to winter asliore at Cumberland Gulf. — The Pet Seal. — 
 Life Ashore. — Relieved by the True Love. — Is taken to England. — Returns to 
 the Arctic Regions. — Siglits the abandoned British Ship Resolute. — With three 
 Companions boards the Resolute. — Finds W^ine in the Glasses. — All have a good 
 Time. — Don the Officers' Uniforms. — Retums to his Ship. — Ships as Second Mate 
 in the (ieurge Henry. — As First Officer. — As Captain of the Brig Georgiana. — 
 Meets Captain Charles F. Ilall. — Witnesses and tries to prevent the Loss of the 
 Rescue. — Sails as Master of the Orray Taft, of New Bedford. — Of the Antelope. 
 — Sails to Repulse Bay, and takes the first Whale captured in those Waters. — 
 Again meets Captain Hall, and supplies him with a Boat. — Peculiar Electrical 
 Phenomena at Repulse Bay. — Sails in the Top-sail Schooner Era. — Meets Cap- 
 tain Hall, then "in training " with the Esquimaux. — Log-book Records. — Winters 
 ashore at Niountelik Harbor. — Removes from New London to Brooklyn. — Sails in 
 the Polaris as Assistant Navigator 75 
 
8 COXTEXTS. 
 
 rilAPTEH III. 
 
 THK I'OI.aRIS KXI'KIMTION. 
 
 The North Polar Expedition authorized bv Congress. — Captain Halls Commisision. 
 — The Periwinkle, afterward Polaris, selected. — Letter of Captain Ilall'M. — De- 
 scription of the Steamer Polaris. — Liberal Supplies. — A patent t'anvas Boat. — 
 Books presented by J. Carson IJrevoort. — A r.haracteristic Letter of Captain 
 Hall's. — An Invitation to visit him at the North Pole Page l(J<i 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Polaris put into Commission. — Official Instructions to the Commander. — Scien- 
 tific Directions. — Let.er of Capta'n Hall's. — List of the Officers and Crew 107 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BIOGRAI'IIICAL SKKTCII OF CAPTAIN IIALL. 
 
 Nativity and early Life of Charles Francis Hall. — Leaves his native State of New 
 Hampshire and settles in Ohio. — Takes to Journalism. — Attracted by .. .rctic Lit- 
 erature. — Unsuccessful Effort to join M'Clintock. — Sails for the Arctic Rttjions in 
 the George Henry, of New London. — The Tender Rest-ue and the Expedition Boat 
 lost in a Storm. — He explores Frobisher Bay and Countess of Warwick Sound. — 
 Cf)llect8 Relics of Franklins Exjjedition. — Returns to the United States. — His 
 Theories regarding the Franklin Exjiedition. — Sails for the North, 18C4, in the 
 Bark Monticello. — His Discoveries. — Skeletons of Franklin's Men scattered over 
 King William Land. — Annual Reports. — His Life with the Esquimaux. — Return 
 to the Unitetl States. — Physical Appearance. — Mental Traits. — In the Innuit Land 
 he did as the Innuits do. — Persevering P^ff'orts to organize the North Polar Expe- 
 dition. — President Grant personally interested. — "That Historical Flag. ' — How 
 he would know when he got to the Pole. — His Premonitions. ^ — His last Dis- 
 patch 113 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Dr. Emil Bessel. — Sergeant Frederick Meyers, — Mr. R. W. D. Bryan.- -Sidney O. 
 Buddington. — Hubbard C. Chester. — Emil S<human. — William Morton. — Letter 
 of Captain Hall's. — The Polaris sails. — Disaff"ection on Board. — Meets the Swed- 
 ish Exploring Expedition. — Favorable condition of the Ice. — United States Ship 
 ConffT&is arrives at Disco with Supplies for the Polaris. — Insubordin; tion on Board. 
 — Captain Hall's Idiosyncrasy. — He " bids A<'ieu to "V. '^^ivilized World ', ... 12!> 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 NOTES BY CAPTAIN TYSON ON BOAKD THE POLARIS. 
 
 Captain Tyson's Soliloquy on leaving Harbor. — A Thunder-storm. — Arrive at St. 
 Johns. — Icebergs in Sight. — I{eligious Services on board the Polaris by Dr. Ne'v- 
 man, of W^ashington. — Prayer at Sea. — Esquimau Hans, with Wife, Children, 
 and " Vermin,'' taken on board. — Firing at Walrus. — The Sailing-master wants to 
 stop at Port Foulk. — The Polaris passes Kane's Winter-cjuarters. — An impassable 
 Barrier of Ice. — Misleading Charts. — The open Polar Sea recedes from Sight. — 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Afraid of "Symme's Hole." — Polaris enters liobeson Channel. — Surrounded by 
 Icefields. — Comicil of Officers. — I'lierile Fears. — Sir Edward Belcher. — The Ameri- 
 can Elag raised on "Hall Land." — Seeking a Harbor. — Kejadse Harbor. — Thank 
 God Harbor. — Providence Berg. — Housing the Ship for Winter-quartern .Page 141 
 
 CH.a'TER VIII. 
 
 A Ilunting-party. — A cold Survey. — Description of Coast-hills. — A Musk-ox shot. — 
 Landing Provisions. — Arctic Foxes. — Captain Hall prepares for a Sledge-journey. 
 — Conversation with Captain Tyson. — Off at last. — Captain Hall "forgets some- 
 thing.' — Twenty "somethings." — The Sun disappears. — Banking the Ship.... 152 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Putting Provisions Ashore. — Return of Captain Hall. — " Prayer on leaving the 
 Ships." — Captain Hall taken Sick. — What was seen on his Sledge-journey.— Apo- 
 plexy ?—M'Clintocks Engineer — Death of Captain Hall. — A strange Itemark. — 
 Preparing the Grave. — The Funeral. — "I walk on with my lantern." — Thus end 
 his ambitious Projects 159 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Captain Buddington passes to the Command. — Scientific Observations. — The first 
 Aurora of the Season. — Sunday Prayers discontinued. — Dr. Bessel Storm-bound 
 in the Observatory. — Meyers to the Rescue. — An Arctic Hurricane. — Fast to the 
 Iceberg. — Sawing through the Ice. — Electric Clouds. — Pressure of Floe-ice. — The 
 Iceljerg splits in two. — The Polaris on her Beam-ends. — Hannah, Ilans's Wife, 
 and the Children put Ashore 1G6 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Thanksgiving. — A Paraselene. — Dr. Bessel's bad Luck. — "It is very dark now." — 
 Oppressive Silence of the Arctic Night. — The Voracity of Shrimps. — "In Hall's 
 Time it was Heaven to this." — A natural Gentleman. — No Service on Christmas. 
 — The Polaris rises and falls with the Tide.^Futile Blasting. — The New Year. — 
 Atmospheric Phenomena. — The Twilight brightens. — Trip to Cape Lupton. — 
 Height of the Tides at Thank G.d Harbor 169 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 
 An impressive Discussion. — Daylight gains on the Night. — Barometer drops like a 
 Cannon-ball. — Four mock Moons. — Day begins to look like Day. — The F'ox-traps. 
 — The Sun re-appears after an Absence of one hundred and thirty-five Days. — 
 Mock Suns. — Spring coming.— An Exploring-party in Search of Cape Constitution. 
 — A Bear-fight with Dogs. — New light on Cartography. — Tired of canned Meat . 1 74 
 
 CHAPTER XIIL 
 
 Sledge vf. Boat. — What Chester would do when he got Home. — Photographing a 
 Failure. — Off on a Sledge-jouniey with Mr. Meyers, Joe. and Hans. — Habits of 
 
10 CONTENTS. 
 
 the Musk -cattle. — Peculiar strategic Position. — Encounter a Herd. — IIow the 
 Young are concealed. — Dull Sport. — Newman Bay. — Preparing for Boat-jour- 
 neys. — What does he mean? — ("limatie Changes. — (ilaciers. — Wonderful Sports- 
 men, — The Ice thick and huinmocky. — A dangerous Leak Page 17t> 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Two Boat-parties arranged. — A Disaster. — Chester's Boat crushed in the Ice. — The 
 " Historical Flag" lost. — Chester takes tlie patent Canvas Boat. — Captain Tyson's 
 Boat-party. — Jieach Newman Bay. — Dr. Besscl's Snow-hlindness. — Drift-wood. 
 — Extinct Glaciers. — Unfavorable Condition of the Ice. — A Proposal rejected. — 
 Keturn to the Ship 18.5 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Engineer's Report. — A new Inscription. — A gentle Awakening. — Providence Berg 
 disrupted. — Having "enough of it." — Lost Opportunities. — Tiie Advent of little 
 Esquimau "Charlie Polaris." — Beset near (^ape Fra/ier. — Alcohol Master. — 
 Interruption of his morning "Nip." — Drifting with the Hoe. — Pack-ice in Smith 
 Sound. — The Oil-boiler. — The bearded Seal. — Preparations for spending another 
 Winter m the Nor^h. — A south-westerly Gale I'JO 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 JOURNAL OF OEORGK E. TYSOS, ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR ON UNITED STATES STEAMER 
 I'OLARIS, KEIT ON THE ICE-FLOE. 
 
 Adrift. — The fatal Ice Pressure. — "Heave every thing Overl)oard !" — The Ship 
 breaks away in the Darkness. — Cliildren in the Ox-skins. — First Night adrift. — 
 Snowed under. — Roll-call on the Ice-floe. — Ett'orts to regain the Ship. — The Po- 
 laris coming! — A terrible Disappointment. — Tlie overladen Boat. — Three Oars, 
 and no Rudder. — The Ice breaks beneath us. — Drifting to the South-west. — Re- 
 gain the large P'loe. — Hope of regaining the Polaris abandoned. — Building Huts. 
 — Native Igloos. — Estimating Provisions. — Locality of the Separation. — Meyers's 
 and Tyson's Opinion. — Two Meals a Day. — Mice in the Chocolate. — Too cold for 
 a Watch. — Too weak to stand firmly. — Hans kills and eats two Dogs. — Natives 
 improvident. — Lose Sight of the Sun. — The Dogs follow the Food H)7 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL 
 
 A vain Hunt for Seal. — Pemm'can. — The Dogs stariing. — Blow-holes of the Seal. — 
 Mode of Capture. — Sight Cary Island. — Hans mistaken for a Bear. — Down with 
 Rheumatism. — One Boat used for Fuel. — The Children crying with Hunger. — Joe 
 the best Man. — The Bread walks off". — One square Meal. — Bear and Fox-tracks. — 
 EfTectg of lax Discipline. — Joe and Hannah. — Our Thanksgiving-dinner , 215 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Can see the Land. — Ilans's Hut. — Nearly dark : two Hours of Twilight. — Economiz- 
 ing Paper. — Northern Lights. — Lying still to save Food. — "All Hair and Tail." 
 — Weighing out Rations by Oimces. — Heavy Ice goes with the Current. — The Es- 
 
CONTENTS. 11 
 
 quimaux afraid of Cannibalism. — Fox-trap. — Set a Seal-net — Great ResponsibiU 
 ity, but little Authority. — All well, but hungry. — The fear of Death starved and 
 frozen out of me. — The shortest and darkest JJay. — Christmas Page 225 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Taking account of Stock. — Hope lies to the Sor'h. — Eating Seal-skin. — Find it very 
 tough. — How to divide a Seal a la Escpiimau. — Give the Baby the P>es. — Differ- 
 ent Species of Seal. — New-yea's Day, 1873. — Economizing our Lives away. — Just 
 see the Western Shore. — "I'lenty at Disco." — Thirty-six below Zero. — Clothing 
 disappears. — A glorious Sound. — "Kyack! Kyackl" — Starvation postponed. — 
 Thoroughly frightened. --Little Tobias sick. — Oh, for a sound-headed Man! — 
 Four ounces for a Meal. — The Sun re-appears after an Absence of eighty-three 
 Days 234 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Belated Joe. — Wrong Calculations. — Drift past Disco. — Beauty of the Northern 
 Constellations. — Hans unreliable. — "Where liuni and Tobacco grow." — Forty 
 below Zero. — An impolite Visitor. — One hundred and third Day on the Ice. — Per- 
 severance of the Natives in hunting. — Hans loses a good Dog. — Beautiful Aurora. 
 — The Mercury freezes. — Too cold for the Natives to himt. — A little Blubber left. 
 — Trust in Providence. — Effects of Refraction. — Relieving Parties on the Ice. — 
 Our Lunch, Seal-skin with the Hair on. — A natural Death. — One hundred and 
 seven Days without seeing printed Words 246 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 A solemn Entry made in the Journal, in View of Death. — More Security on the Ice- 
 floe than on board the Polaris. — Eating the Offal of better Days. — Tobias very 
 low. — Anticipations of a Break-up. ^Hope. — -foe, Hannah, and little I'nney. — "I 
 am so himgry." — An interior View of Hans'sIIut; his Family. — Talk about reach- 
 ing the Land. — Inexperience of the Men misleads their Judgment 259 
 
 CHAPTER XXIL 
 
 Dreary, yet beautiful. — The Formation of Icebergs. — ^Where and how they grow. — 
 Variety of Form and History. — "The Land of Desolation." — Strength failing. — 
 Travel and Rations. — Unhealthy Influence of mistaken Views. — Managing a Kyack 
 on young Ice. — Secures the Seal. — "Clubbing their Loneliness."'— Poor little Pu- 
 ney's Amusement. — Any Thing good to eat that don't poison. — Narwhals, or Sea- 
 uniooiTis. — A royal Seat. — Hans criticised. — Cleaning House. — "Pounding-day." 
 — Our Carpet. ^Lunching by the Yard on Seal's Entrails. — "Oh I give me my 
 Harpoon." — No Clothing fit to hunt in. — Inventory of Wardrobe. — Narwhals use- 
 ful in carrying off Ball and Ammunition. — Pleasant Sensations in Retrospect. — 
 The Skin of the Nose. — Castles in the Air. — Violent Gale and Snow-storm. — Dig- 
 ging out. — Three Feet square for Exercise. — Dante's Ice-hell 266 
 
 CHAPTER XXIIL 
 
 Patching up Clothes.— Captain Hall's Rifle.— Cutting Fresh-water Ice for Drink. — 
 Salt-water Ice to season Soup. — Four months' Dirt. — Sun Revelations. — "You are 
 nothing but Bone."— That chronic Snow-drift. — Sei.!-flipper for Lunch. — Watch- 
 ing a Seal-hole.— Eating his "Jacket."— Dovekies.— The Solace of a Smoke.— 
 Native Mode of cleansing Co(^king Utensils.— The West Coast in Sight.— Joe's 
 
12 CONTENTS, 
 
 Valuation of Seals. — Prospects dark and gloomy. — Bill falls Overboard. — Death 
 to the I'ront. — Evidences of Weakness. — The Natives alarmed. — Washington's 
 Birthday. — A novel Sledge. — The "right Way of the Hair." — Discussions about 
 reaching Shore Page 279 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Decide to make the Attempt. — Foiled by successive Snow-storms. — Down to one 
 scant Afeal a Day. — Land thirty-five Miles off. — God alone can help us. — Canary- 
 bird nations. — Bear-tracks. — A Bird Supper. — A Monster Oogjook. — Six or sev- 
 en hundred Pounds of fresh Meat! Thirty Gallons of Oil I — Oogjook Sausage. — 
 Our Huts resemble Slaughter houses. — Hands and Faces smeared with Blood. — 
 Content restored. — Taking Observations. — Out of the Weed. — A I'resent from 
 Joe. — Heat of Esquimaux Huts. — Desponding Thoughts. — "So I sit and dream 
 of Plans for Keleasc.'' — Terrific Noises portend the breaking up of the Floe. — An 
 unbroken Sea of Ice. — Hans Astray again. — That "Oogjook Liver." — The Stew- 
 ard convinced. — An Ice-quake in the Night. — The Floe breaks twenty yards from 
 the Hut. — Floe shattered into hundreds of Pieces. — Sixty Hours of Ice, Turmoil, 
 and utter Darkness. — The "Floes" become a "Pack." — Storm abates. — Quietly 
 Drifting. — A Choice for Bradford. — Our Domain wearing away. — Twenty Pace-s 
 only to the Water. — Whistling to charm an Oogjook. — A Kelapse into Barbar- 
 ism 28t< 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 A Bear prospecting for a Meal. — The Ice in an Uproar. — Seven Seals in one Day. — 
 Spring by Date.— The "Bladder -noses" appear. — Ofi" Hudson Strait. — A Bear 
 comes too close. — A lucky Shot in the Dark. — Description of I'rsiis mnritimus. — 
 Milk in the young Seal. — Fools of Fortune. — We take to the Boat. — Rig W^ash- 
 boards. — A desperate Struggle to keep AHoat. — Alternate between Boat and Floe. 
 — Striving to gain the west Shore. — Dead-weights. — Ice splits. — Joe's Hut carried 
 off. — Rebuild it. — Ice splits again, and destroys Joe's new Hut. — Standing ready 
 for a Jump. — Our Breakfast goes down into the Sea. — No Blubber for our Lamps. 
 —The Ice splits once more, separating Mr. Meyers from the I'arty.— We stand 
 hel|»less, looking at each other. — Meyers unable to manage the Boat. — Joe and 
 Hans go to his Relief. — All of us but two follow. — Springing from Piece to Piece 
 of the Ice. — Meyers rescued. — He is badly frozen. — Mishaps in the Water. — High 
 Sea running. — Washed out of our Tent by the Sea. — Women and (liildren stowed 
 in the Boat. — Not a diy Place to stand on. — Ice recloses. — Sea subsides. — Land 
 Birds appear. — No Seal. — Very Hungry 30.". 
 
 CHAPTER XXVL 
 
 Easter-Sunday. — Flashes of Divinity. — Meycrs's Suffering from want of Food. — Men 
 very Weak. — Fearful Thoughts. — A timely Relief. — Land once more in Sight. — 
 Flocks of Ducks. — Grotesque Misery. — A S'atue of Famine. — A desolating Wave. 
 — A Foretaste of worse. — Manning the Boat in a new Fashion. — A Battery of 
 Ice-blocks. — All Night "standing by" the Boat. — A fearful Struggle for Life. — 
 Worse off than St. Paul. — D.vylight at last. — Launched once more. — Watch and 
 Watch. — The Sport and Jest of the Elements. — Lack of Food, — Half drowned, 
 
CONTENTS, ii 
 
 cold, and hungry. — Eat dried Skin saved for Clothing. — A Bear! a Bear! — Anx- 
 ious Moments. — Poor I'olar! God has sentusp'ood. — Ilecuperating on Bear-meat. 
 — A crippled, overloaded Boat. — A Battle of the Bergs. — Shooting young Blad- 
 der-noses, — Hoping for lielief, Page 317 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII, 
 
 A joyful Sight I — A Steamer in View, — Lost again, — She disappears, — Once more 
 we seek liest upon a small Piece of Ice. — The Hope of Rescue keeps us awake, — 
 Another Steamer. — We hoist our Colors, muster our Fire-arms, fire, and shout. — 
 She does not see us.— She falls oft'. — Re -appears, — Gone again. — Still another 
 Steamer. — Deliverance can .lot be far off. — Another Night on the Ice. — Hans 
 catches a Baby Seal. — "There's a Steamer!" — Very Foggy, and we fear to lose 
 her. — Hans goes for her in his Kyack. — She approaches. — We are saved! — All 
 safe on board the Tigress. — Amusing Questions. — A good Smoke and a glorious 
 Breakfast. — Once more able "to wash and be clean," — Boarded by Captain De 
 Lane, of the Walrus. — Meyers slowly recovering, — A severe Gale, — Six hundred 
 Seals killed. — Captain Bartlett heading for St, Johns, — The Esquimaux Chil- 
 dren the "Lions," — Awaiting the Tailor, — Going Home in the United States 
 Steamship Frolic 326 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII, 
 
 THE 8EABCH FOB THE POLARIS AND THE SURVIVORS OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 The News of the Rescue, — Captain Tyson and Party arrive at Washington, — Board 
 of Inquiry organized. — Testimony given as to lax Discipline. — The Juniata, Com- 
 mander Braine, dispatched, with Coal and Stores, to Disco. — Captain James Bud- 
 dington, Ice-pilot. — Captain Braine's Interview with Inspector Karrup Smith, of 
 North Greenland. — Juniata at Upernavik. — Small Steam-launch Little Juniata 
 essays to cross Melville Bay. — Repelled by the Ice. — President Grant in Council 
 with Members of the National Academy of Sciences, — Purchase of the Tigress. — 
 Description of the Vessel, — Necessary Alterations. — List of (Jflicers. — Captain Ty- 
 son Acting Lieutenant and Ice-pilot. — A Reporter to the New York Herald ships 
 as ordinary Seaman. — Esquimau Joe ships as Interpreter. — Several Seamen be- 
 longing to the Ice-floe Company ship in the Tigress. — Extra Equipments 340 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX, 
 
 The Tigress, Commander Jamos A, Greer, sets sail,— Enthusiasm at her Departure, 
 — Hans and Family as Passengers, — "Knowledge is Power," — Amve at Tes- 
 suisak.— Governor Jansen, — Tigress proceeds North, — Approach Northumberland 
 Island.— Not the place of Separation. — Make Littleton Island.— Excitement on 
 Board on hearing Human Voices. — Encanijjment of the Polaris Survivors found. 
 — Commander Greer's Success, — Esquimaux in Possession of the deserted House, 
 — Captain Tyson's Advice to seek the Whalers 350 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 CAPTAIN Tyson's cruise in the tigress. 
 
 Captain Tyson's Journal on board the Tigress. — "Too late," — Fire training on 
 board. — Mai de mer. — A tall Story. — Angling for Porpoises with Pork. — A nautic- 
 al Joke. — Beware of the Tigress. — Fog at Sea, — Naive Comments on Icebergs. — 
 
14 CONTENTS. 
 
 Tender Hearts among the Blue-jackets. — Illusions. — Aurora. — Whistling to fright- 
 en the Bergs. — Splendid Northern Lights. — Heavy Gales. — The Doctor's Clerk. — 
 Two old Whalers. — We leave Night behind us. — J'our Hans's Affliction. — Family 
 returned to Greenland. — The Tigress pitching and -: I'ing. — The Fog-bknket. — 
 Cheese tor Bait. — An Iceberg turns a Somersault. — A beautiful Display. — A 
 slight Accident. — Meet the Steam-launch. — (Jfficial Correspondence with Com- 
 mander Greer. — Ashore at Littleton Island and Life-boat Cove. — Sounding for 
 the foundered Polaris. — Abundance of Food abandoned by the Polaris Sur- 
 vivors Page 350 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Homeward-bound. — Fire! Fire I — An h-^nored Custom. — Contrast of the Sailor's 
 Life. — A Set-oif to the Midnight Sun. — Heavy Gale. — All want to shoot a Bear. — 
 Executive Officer White the "killing" Man.— A narrow Escape. — Thoughts of 
 Home. — At Upernavik for Repairs.— The Danish and half-breed Girls. — Dress. — 
 Dancing. — A startling Record. — AtGoodhavn Harbor. — Captain Tyson visits the 
 Juniata. — Continued bad Weather. — Sight Cape Mercy. — The Sea sweeps the Gal- 
 ley. — The ("ook disgusted. — Effects of the Gale in the Wardroom. — "At home" 
 in Niountelik Harbor, Cumberland Gulf 368 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 A Change for the better. — Repairing Damages. — Company in the Gulf. — Looking 
 for Scotch Whalers. — The Natives bring Deer-meat to the Ship. — Arctic Birds 
 flying South. — Captain Hall's old Proteges. — Demoralization of the Natives of the 
 west Coast. — Collecting "Specimens." — Bad Case of "Stone Fever." — "Time 
 and Tide wait for no Man." — Billy's Curiosities. — Captain Tyson meets his late 
 Rescuer, Captain Bartlett. — Mica Speculation. — Short of Coal. — How we lost our 
 Dinner. — A saltatory Dining-table. — Sight a Scotch Whaler. — Arrival at Ivgi- 
 tut, South Greenland. — Meet the Fox, of Arctic Fame. — Kryolite, Coal, Fish, 
 and another Gale. — Friend Schnider, the fat Dane. — Canaries, Pigeons, etc., do- 
 mesticated here. — The Crew overworked. — A Hurricane. — Antics of the Furni- 
 ture. — Force of Sea-waves 376 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 The Gale abates. — Consultation as to Course. — Useless Cruising. — Start for Home. 
 — More bad Weather. — Land-birds blown out to Sea. — Reminiscences of the Ice-floe 
 Drift. — A narrow Escape. — A black Fog. — Interviewing a Hawk at the Mast- 
 head. — Arrive at St. Johns. — News of the Polaris Party. — Return to Brooklyn. — 
 What the Tigress accomplished. — Lessons in Arctic Navigation. — Braverj' of the 
 Officers. — A stormy but agreeable Cruise 383 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 THEORY OF NORTH POLAR CURRENTS. 
 
 The Hydrography of Smith Sound. — The Currents forhid the Theory of an "Open 
 Polar Sea." — Movements of the Ice. — A northern Archipelago a reasonable Sup- 
 position. — Velocity of Current along the east and west Coasts. — No Current in 
 the Middle. — Experience of the Polaris. — Absence of large Bergs in Smith Sound. 
 — Open nearly all Winter. — Radiant Heat preserved by Cloud Strata. — Deflection 
 of the Current at Cape York. — Robeson Channel described. — Land seen from the 
 
CONTENTS. 15 
 
 Mast-head both east and west. — Coast -line l>eyond Cape Union. — Two Headlands 
 to the east-north-east of Kepulse Harbor. — Absence of Snow on Coast of North 
 Greenland above Humboldt Glacier. — Elevated Tlateaus in the Interior. — The 
 Land around Polaris Bay. — Clam-shells at an Elevation of two thousand Feet. 
 — Variegated but odorless Flora. — Animal Life. — Insects. — Skeletons of Musk- 
 cattk Page .388 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 How to reach the North Pole. — Smith Sound the true Gate-way. — This course of- 
 fers the Alternative of Land Travel. — Plenty of Game in Summer. — April and 
 May the Months for Sledging. — Proper Model of Vessel's Hull. — Twenty -five 
 Men enough. — A Tender necessary. — A Depot at Port Foulke with a detail of 
 Men. — Ice at liensselaer Harbor. — Avoid I'aci-ice in Smith Sound. — Go direct 
 for west Coast. — Form Caches at intervals of fifty Miles. — Deposit Reserve Boats. 
 — Style of Traveling-sledge. — Native preferred. — Selecting Dogs. — Keep them well 
 fed. — Keep Sto'.ss on Deck. — Winter as far north as the Ship can get. — How to 
 get out of a Trap. — Provision a Floe, and trust to the Current. — Take yonr Boats 
 along. — Replenish at Caches. — Two Months from a high Latitude sufficient. — It 
 will yet be done 393 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 THE FATE OF THE POLARIS. 
 
 The Polaris Survivors. — Ship driven to the North-east. — Her Position on the Night 
 of October 15. — Darkness and Confusion. — Anchors and Boats gone. — The Leak 
 gains. — Steam up. — Roll-call on Board. — 7jOokout for the Floe Party. — Storm 
 abated. — Inspection of Stores. — The Polaris fast to grounded Hummocks. — " Let 
 her fill I" — Life-boat Cove. — The Polaris left a Legacy to an Esquimau Chief. — 
 She founders in his Sight 398 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 THE FORTUNES OF THE FOLARIS SURVIVORS. 
 
 Life on Shore. — A House built. — Visitors. — Womanly Assistance. — Scientific Ob- 
 servations. — Amusements. — Old Myoney. — Hunting. — Boat built. — Starting r^r 
 Home. — A Summer-trip. — Sight a Vessel. — Rescue by Captain Allen, of the Ra- 
 venscraig. — Romance of the Polaris Expedition. — Safe Arrival of all the ^un'ivors 
 at New York. — Consul MoUoy 402 
 
 - CHAPTER XXXVm. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC NOTES. 
 
 The Pacific Tidal Wave. — Meteorological and Magnetic Records. — Glaciers. — Fauna. 
 — Entomology. — Flora 410 
 
 Appendix 423 
 
 Index 481 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 - V . Paob 
 
 A FEARFUL STRCGGLE FOR LIFE Frontispiece. 
 
 TRACK OF THE POLARIS, AND VELOCITY OF CURRENTS Map. 
 
 SEBASTIAN CABOT 26 
 
 HALL DISCOVERING FROBISHER RELICS 28 
 
 BARENTZ'S WINTER-QUARTERS 29 
 
 HENRY HUDSON 31 
 
 BARON VON WRANGEL 33 
 
 WILLIAM SCORESBY 36 
 
 CAPTAIN PARRY 39 
 
 SIR JOHN ROSS 46 
 
 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN 52 
 
 ADVANCE AND RESCUE 57 
 
 ARCTIC DISCOVERY SHIPS 58 
 
 FINDING REMAINS OF SKELETONS IN A BOAT 65 
 
 DR. KANE 68 
 
 DR. HAYES 70 
 
 ESQUIMAU woman's KNIFE , 74 
 
 CAPTAIN TYSON 76 
 
 CAPTURING THE SEAL 79 
 
 CONGRESS AND POLARIS AT GOODHAVN 82 
 
 THE "devil's thumb" 84 
 
 eider-ducks 88 
 
 "every thing presented a mouldy appearance" 94 
 
 the polaris 101 
 
 a snow-squall 106 
 
 charles francis hall 114 
 
 joe, hannah, and child 118 
 
 RELICS OF franklin's EXPEDITION 120 
 
 FAC-SIMILE OF CAPTAIN HALL's WRI-'ING 128 
 
 DR. EMIL BESSEL 129 
 
 SIDNEY O. BUDDINGTON 130 
 
 HUBBARD C. CHESTER 131 
 
 EMIL SCHUMAN 132 
 
 WILLIAM MORTON 133 
 
 UPERNAVIK 138 
 
 THE FISCANAES PILOT 143 
 
 ICE BREAKING UP 151 
 
 POLARIS AT CAPE LUPTON — WINTER-QUARTERS, 1871-72 152 
 
 CAPTAIN hall's SLEDGE-JOURNEY 156 
 
18 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Paoc 
 
 gothic icebkrg 158 
 
 burial of captaik hall 164 
 
 HEAD AND ANTLKRS OF THF: ARCTIC REINIJ ER 173 
 
 SEALS 178 
 
 MUSK-OX 180 
 
 ESQUIMAU DCO 184 
 
 ARCTIC WOLVES 189 
 
 OBAVE OF CAPTAIN HALL 190 
 
 THE LUMME OF THE NORTH 196 
 
 "the ship broke away IN THE DARKNESS, AND WE LOST SIGHT OF HER IN 
 
 A moment" 199 
 
 NATIVE LAMP 210 
 
 THE GREAT AUK 214 
 
 JOE WATCHING SEAL-HOLE 216 
 
 A PERILOUS SITUATION 224 
 
 AN AURORA 227 
 
 PLACING STORES ON THE ICE 233 
 
 CAPTAIN TYSON IN HIS ARCTIC COSTUME 239 
 
 GOING THROUGH AN ICEBERG 245 
 
 HANS, WIFE, AUGUSTINA, AND TOBIAS 249 
 
 ARCTIC HOSPITALITY 258 
 
 HANNAH AND JOE PLAYING CHECKERS 262 
 
 SURROUNDED BY ICEBERGS 265 
 
 HANS GOING FOR A SEAL ON YOUNG ICE 270 
 
 NARWHAL 273 
 
 BREAKING UP OF ICE-RAFT 300 
 
 AN ESQUIMAU PILOT 304 
 
 OOMIAK, OR woman's BOAT 316 
 
 ICE-DRIFT OF THE TY'SON PARTY 327 
 
 THE RESCUE 329 
 
 THE COMPANY WHO WERE ON THE ICE-DRIFT WITH CAPTAIN TYSON 338 
 
 THE JUNIATA 342 
 
 THE TIGRESS... 345 
 
 GOVERNOR JATTSEN AND FAMILY 352 
 
 POLARIS CAMP, 1872-73 3.'>4 
 
 SCENE IN SOUTHERN GREENLAND 367 
 
 ENCAMPMENT NEAR IVGITUT 375 
 
 KRYOLITE MINE 380 
 
 A SUMMER ENCAMPMENT 401 
 
 XHB LATEST STYLE 409 
 
M 
 
 1 
 
 EXPLANATION 
 
 Oiitirdnl Track of l.S.S.rolarU 
 Hetiirn " 
 Direction of CurrentH ■ 
 
 Thi^ figurtu in Smith fvjund.Kdiri'iIy , »tii1 
 Holiettnn Channtria, indicate the ^>' 
 I >rity of tlie currents />«r Axmf* \ 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 
 rF^^^vji 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 7S- 
 
 18 
 
 63 
 
 i:nff.ty Kilt &8e€,N. Y. 
 
 MAP SUOWniO THK TBAOK OF UNITKD STATES 6TEAMEB " POLARIS," AM) TELOOITY OF OTTBBENTS. 
 
ARCTIC EXPERIENCES 
 
 BY 
 
 LAND AND SEA. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER 
 
 The Northern Sphinx. — Arctic Nomenclature. — Geographical Mistakes. — The Hy- 
 perboreans. — The Pre-C'olumbian Era. — Frobish ;r's Gold. — Gilbert and Others. — 
 Henry Hudson. — Russian Explorers. — Government Rewards. — Early American 
 Enteri)rise. — The Whaler Scoresby. — Remarkable Land Journeys. — Combined Sea 
 and Land Explorations. — The Era of Modern Discoveries. — Parry's Drift. — Steam 
 first used in the Arctic Seas. — The Magnetic Pole fixed. — Back's Discoveries. — 
 Dense and Simpson. — Rae on Boothia. — Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition. — 
 Relief Parties. — A glorious Spectacle. — First Grinnell Expedition. — Ten Explor- 
 ing Vessels meet at Beechey Island. — Dr. Kane. — Rumors of Cannibalism. — The 
 Problem of the North-west Passage solved. — Bellot. — Obtuseness of the British 
 Naval Board. — Providential Mental Coercion. — Tiie Forlorn Hope. — Dr. Hayes. — 
 Profit ana Loss. — W.'iat is the Use of Arctic Explorations ? — Remote Advantages. 
 — Ancient Gradgrinds. — Arctic Failures and Successes. — Unexplored Area. — 
 Modern Chivalry, — A pure Ambition. 
 
 The invisible Sphinx of the uttermost North still protects with 
 jealous vigilance the arcana of her ice-bound mystery. Her fin- 
 gers still clutch with tenacious grasp the clue which leads to her 
 coveted secret ; ages have come and gone ; generations of heroic 
 men have striven and failed, wrestling with Hope on the one side 
 and Death on the other ; philosophers have hypothesized, some- 
 times truly, but often with misleading theories : she still clasps, 
 in solemn silence, the riddle in her icy palm — remaining a fas- 
 cination and a hope, while persistently baffling the reason, the 
 skill, and the courage of man. 
 
 Skirmishers have entered at the outer portals, and anon re- 
 treated, bearing back with them trophies of varying value. Whole 
 divisions, as of a grand army, have approached her domains with 
 all the paraphernalia of a regular siege, and the area of attack 
 
20 AKCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 been proportionably widened ; important breaches have been ef- 
 fected, the varied fortunes of war befalling the assailants; some 
 retaining possession of the fields they have won; some falling 
 back with but small gain; others, with appalling loss and death, 
 have vainly sought escape and safety from her fatal toils. Nor 
 has the citadel been won. " Undiscovered" is still written over 
 the face of the geographical pole. 
 
 Yet as brave men as ever trod the earth or sailed the wide salt 
 seas have time and again returned to the encounter, defying this 
 Polar tyrant, who hurls from her mysterious abode the vengeful 
 storms of wind and hail and snow; smiting some with ice-blind- 
 ness, and others with the dread consuming scurvy; while others 
 still she decoys into the perils of a frozen solitude whence there 
 is no return, and the terrors of starvation meet them ; for still others 
 she spreads the treacherous crevasse, or sets upon them the cruel, 
 unpitying savage; while the rotting ribs of noble vessels lie scat- 
 tered through all her borders. Worst fate of all, some noble souls 
 have been sent empty-handed back, to die of disappointed hof>es, 
 and grand ambitions quenched ! Uitherto repulsing all — victor 
 over all — save the indomitable will; but that, enduring, man 
 shall yet overcome even the terrific elemental forces with which 
 she defends her domain. 
 
 For, strange as it may seem, while she defies, she tempts; 
 while baffling efibrt, she encourages hope; while foiling the 
 bravest, she holds out inducement to renewed attack. As with 
 one hand uplifted, she swears, " ilitberto shalt thou come, and no 
 further," with the other she beckons delusively to the next aspir- 
 ant. So that each brave enthusiast says to himself, " I shall con- 
 quer — she has betrayed all others; I shall win;" and thus the 
 hope of final success never has been and never will be quenched, 
 until full fruition satisfies the questionings of science and the long- 
 ings of adventure. 
 
 That we may be the better prepared to judge what will be the 
 future of Arctic exploration, we will take a retrospective view of 
 what the ancient mariners of other centuries have accomplished, 
 and what the scientists of our own age have endured, in the hopes 
 of solving the Polar mystery. And we may be assured that ter- 
 rors which could not repel the little shallops of the early advent- 
 urei-s, will not dismay the better-equipped explorers of the pres- 
 ent and the future. 
 
COMPLICATIONS. 21 
 
 ARCTIC NOMENCLATURE. 
 
 But it is well to premise that, unless the reader is familiar with 
 the details of Arctic explorations, he is very apt to get bewilder- 
 ed with the mixed nomenclature which he encounters, with each 
 successive publication; and this is no fault of the authors, but the 
 result of peculiar circumstances and conflicting vanities, added 
 to the fact that the Arctic region is unlike every other portion of 
 the earth, except its southern antipodes, in the fact that much of 
 its surface, both land and water, has no aboriginal names, being 
 destitute of inhabitants; while those places which have received 
 names from successive explorers have, in many instances, been 
 given titles unknown to the old geographers. 
 
 This has sometimes arisen from the fact that what has been 
 named as an island turns out, on more accurate survey, to be a 
 peninsula, or a portion of the main-land, and, of course, the re- 
 verse experience is liable to occur. What some early voyager has 
 called a strait or a channel, a later explorer determines to be a 
 bay, and then that gets a new name. But what complicates the 
 Polar geography and hydrography much more than these simple 
 reversals of contour or superior accuracy, results from the prac- 
 tice — especially with modest travelers, of naming their discoveries 
 for friends and patrons — often obscure in every thing but wealth: 
 and then, later in history, the explorer's own name is considered 
 more suitable, and influential admirers bring it to the front and 
 affix it, like the writing on an ancient palimpsest, over those which 
 he selected — the patron's name giving way, with various prefixes 
 or suffixe3, to that of the discoverer. 
 
 Thus one needs to be familiar with each successive addition to 
 Arctic literature; indeed, to be able to carry in the mind's eye 
 the contour of headlands, islands, shore lines, gulfs, bays, and riv- 
 ers, in order to be enabled to trace the minuter history and daily 
 movements of any particular party. To exemplify. In a map 
 published in a work on Arctic affairs, just previous to Parry's 
 first voyage, Baffin Bay was treated as a " phantom," and found 
 no place, though it had been accurately described by the dis- 
 coverer. In the chart furnished to Sir John Franklin, in 1845, 
 the name of Barrow Strait is given to all the water-course extend- 
 ing from Lancaster Sound to Banks Land. In a map drawn from 
 official documents, published by J. Arrowsmith, of London, in 
 
22 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES, 
 
 1857, we have this same water subdivided into Barrow Strait, 
 Parry Sound, and M'Clure Strait; while in "Monteitb's Phys- 
 ical Atlas," dated 1866, we find Melville Strait substituted for 
 Parry Sound; and, instead of M'Clure Strait, Banks Strait and 
 M'Clintock Channel; while in "Guyot's Atlas" Baffin Land sup- 
 pleinent'4 and obliterates Cockburn Land, What were former- 
 ly called the Parry Lslands are now termed the Arctic Archipel- 
 ago; and the new edition of " Appleton's Cyclopedia" has changed 
 the well-known Pond Bay of the whalers to Eclipse Sound, 
 In many English maps Grinnell Land is called Albert Land, it 
 being so named by Captain Penny, who did not know that De 
 Haven had been before him ; and the error, though sufficiently 
 exposed, has been persisted in. Thus the whole Arctic regi'.'ns 
 have been subjected to a continued change of nomenclature, and, 
 of course, where hundreds of names are concerned, a familiar 
 knowledge of events, and great care in transcription is requisite 
 to a clear understanding of the position of a given party at a defi- 
 nite period. Without such circumspection, writers on Arctic af- 
 fairs are apt to sadly confuse their narratives and bewilder their 
 readers. 
 
 Then, too, voyagers themselves make mistakes of this descrip- 
 tion which mislead the chart-makers. Though this is embarrass- 
 ing, it is not surprising, when we consider the difficulties under 
 which surveys are often made in that intensely cold climate ; and 
 the fact, too, is considered, that very often the whole of the land 
 visible, as well as the ice-closed waters, are all of one nearly uni- 
 form whiteness, so that it is exceedingly difficult to distinguish at 
 any great distance the one from the other. 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL MISTAKES. 
 
 In illustration of these possible mistakes we will only refer to 
 a few of those which are well known, and have been made by 
 usually careful and experienced travelers. In 1819, Buchan and 
 Lieutenant (afterward Sir John) Franklin sailed for a considera- 
 ble distance through Lancaster Sound, and then concluding it to 
 be a bay, "seeing land at the end," they turned back. Captain 
 John Ross also made the same mistake. 
 
 The famous Captain Kellet reported a mythical land off the 
 Herald Islands, Speaking of Wrangel Sea, or what we should 
 call the Polar Sea, he wrote, so late as November 15, 1851: " We 
 
GEOGRAPHICAL MISTAKES. 23 
 
 have certain proof of there being land in this sea (Wrangel's), for 
 on August 17, 184P, I landed on an island in lat. 71° 19' N., long. 
 175° W. ; it is almost inaccessible, and literally alive with birds. 
 From the neighborhood of this island I saw, as far as a man can 
 be positive of his sight, in those seas to the westward an exten- 
 sive land, very high and rugged, distant from my position I con- 
 jecture fifty or sixty miles. I could not approach it with my ship, 
 but might possibly have done so with a steamer." 
 
 Three years later the United i^tates steamer Vincennes, Commo- 
 dore Rogers, visited Herald Island, and sailed around in all direc- 
 tions, as well as to the westward, looking for the "extensive" 
 land describ' i by Captain Kellet, of the Royal Navy, but found 
 none: neither ttiao above described, nor some other land report- 
 ed in the Vrctic Parliamentary papers of 1849-51. Well might 
 Captain Fellet say, as he did in his report: "It becomes a nerv- 
 ous thing to report a discovery of land in these regions without 
 actually landing on it; but, as far as a man can be certain who 
 has one hundred and thirty pairs of eyes to assist him, and all 
 agreeing, I am certain I have discovered an extensive land. I 
 think it is also more than probable that those peaks we saw are 
 a continuation of a range of mountains seen by the natives off 
 Cape Jaken, and mentioned by Baron Wrangel." — Par. Papers, 
 107. - ^------ ^^ '■-,.- ■ ■' K -.-^....-.v .^.-^:v.: 
 
 And yet he was mistaken — there was no land there ! 
 
 Again, Captain Kennedy, of the Prince Albert, in his report to 
 Lady Franklin, in October, 1852, describes how he and the young 
 French officer, Ren^ Bellot, walked over the land which Sir J. C. 
 Ross, the great Antarctic as well as A^-ctic traveler, had reported 
 to be a sea. This place was between 72° and 73° N. lat., and 
 about 100° W. long. R^ne Bellot, with the instinctive politeness 
 of his nation, wrote in his journal : " Hitherto I had hoped Sir 
 James Ross was right in his conjectures, but there can be no 
 doubt now that he was mistaken, for we have walked over the 
 land." 
 
 And then this same careful Kennedy, at Cape Walker, himself 
 walks over a cairn erected by Captain Austin, and mistakes it for 
 a natural production of the cliff. 
 
 Among the more modern explorers. Dr. Kane frequently refers 
 to the mistakes of his predecessors. He says (Appendix, page 
 303): "The island named Louis Napoleon by Captain Inglefield 
 
24 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 does not exist; the resemblance of ice to land will readily explain 
 the mistake." 
 
 Again he says: "There is no correspondence between my own 
 and the Admiralty charts north of 78° 18' N. Not only do I re- 
 move the general coast-line some 2° of long, to the east, but its 
 trend is altered 60° of angular measurement. There are no land- 
 marks of my predecessor recognizable." ' - . 
 
 These mistakes he attributes in part to the " sluggishness of the 
 compass, and in part to the eccentricities of refraction." 
 
 Dr. Kane's successor — Dr. Hayes — corrected the western coast- 
 line of his friend, saying also of the opposite coast: "lie was much 
 tempted to switch it off twenty miles to the eastward." While 
 the Polaris has sailed into what he and others thought to be the 
 Polar Sea, north of Kennedy Channel, finding a strait and bays, 
 obliterating the Polar Ocean in the latitude where it was supposed 
 to exist, but confirming the idea that it will yet be found, only 
 farther to the north than any human eye has yet penetrated. 
 
 But, though many mistakes have been made, much more of 
 tangible fact has been revealed. Certain lands and waters, once 
 as mythical as the "Hyperborean" of the ancients, are now as 
 familiar to the geographer and Arctic mariner as the coasts of 
 Europe, or our own Atlantic sea-board. 
 
 There is also an additional perplexity arising from the pecul- 
 iar refracting power of the atmosphere, which at times throws up 
 the lowlands into plateaus, and slight elevations into precipitous 
 capes and headlands, so that the most careful observers have been 
 deceived by a phenomenon not suspected to exist. In view of all 
 these embarrassments likely to affect the accuracy of the Arctic 
 explorer, we heartily concur in the wisdom of that energetic and 
 successful navigator, Captain Kennedy, when he declared that he 
 " would never report any thing as land which he had not walked 
 over, nor any thing as water which he had not sailed through." 
 
 THE HYPERBOREANS. 
 
 What has been really discovered, instead of only imagined, we 
 shall now briefly note. 
 
 Without going into the details of the old Norwegian coloniza- 
 tion of Greenland, and the exploration of the American coast by 
 the Norsemen of the tenth and eleventh centuries, via Iceland, 
 which are matter of separate record, and have no direct bearing 
 
RIVAL EXPLORERS. 25 
 
 on the history of modern Arctic exploration, we will only briefly 
 advert to the fact of such communication with the Old and New 
 World having taken place, showing that in those comparatively 
 early ages, while the rich southern plains of Europe and Asia were 
 but sparsely populated, and millions of square miles lay opon to 
 the natural pre-emption of the first comer, there were still always 
 to be found whole nationalities who preferred the cold and rug- 
 ged districts of the North wherein to build their homes, to what 
 would seem to us the more attractive regions of the temperate 
 zone ; but as the white whale and the Polar bear would perish 
 in a warmer clime, so there have ever been races of men who 
 have courted the Polar cold, and avoided, as a stifling furnace, the 
 genial breezes of the luxurious South. 
 
 THE PRE-COLUMBIAN ERA. 
 
 Approaching the era of the modern discovery of America, but 
 preceding it by little over a century, we find that the north-west 
 passage to India was attempted by two Venetian brothers named 
 Zeni, who were but the precursors of a long list of mercantile ad- 
 venturers who essayed the same course; for at first it was not 
 scientific enthusiasm or even a morbid curiosity which sent so 
 many ships and expeditions vainly beating out their strength 
 against the north western barrier. Gain was the motive power 
 which mainly ruled all these efforts for more than two centuries. 
 
 RIVAL EXPLORERS. 
 
 The English, Dutch, Danes, and Kussians were, with reason, 
 anxiously jealous of the rapid strides which Spain, in the six- 
 teenth century, was making toward universal dominion ; and to 
 offset her power and gains in Mexico, Peru, and elsewhere, the 
 English in particular made desperate efforts to find a shorter and 
 easier way to the East Indies than that which the tedious sail 
 round the Cape of Good Hope afforded; and what the English at- 
 tempted by the north-west, Eussia, somewhat later, tried to secure, 
 both by land and sea, following a north-east course. 
 
 And even after this fanciful idea, based on geographical igno- 
 rance, was finally exploded, mercantile enterprise mingled with 
 the pride of national acquisition in stimulating Arctic explora- 
 tions. For though in all, or nearly all of the more modern at- 
 tempts, scientific results were recognized as subordinate subjects 
 
26 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 of interest, it was not until the time of Franklin and Parry that 
 any expedition was fitted out for the sole purpose of geograph- 
 ical and scientific inquiry. 
 
 8EUABTIA.N OABOT. 
 
 Sebastian Cabot made his first voyage to the north-west coast 
 of America under letters patent from Henry VIII., empowering 
 the elder Cabot (John) and his three sons " to discover and con- 
 quer unknown lands," they being the first (of the Columbian 
 era) who ever saw the main-land of North America, and on these 
 north-western voyages he was the first to note the variations of 
 the needle ; but the subject of trade and commerce was always a 
 prominent object with himself u.ir\ royal patron. Later he pro- 
 jected a voyage to the North Pole; but though he penetrated 
 the Arctic circle he succeeded in getting only to 67° 80', sailing 
 through Davis Strait; but neither he nor John Cabot had divest- 
 ed themselves of the idea that the ancient Cathay might be thus 
 reached. 
 
 After the Cabots came the Cortereal brothers, who, from 1500-03, 
 made three voyages, disastrous in loss of life, and not attaining 
 any higher latitude than 60° N. 
 
 The results of these voyages were not particularly encouraging, 
 and the thoughts of kings and the merchant princes of those times 
 
FROBISHER'S GOLD. 27 
 
 began to dwell on other means and routes to the spice lands of 
 the Orient ; and in consonance with this change in the tide of 
 public opinion, an expedition was prepared by the Muscovy Com- 
 pany of London, under the leadership of the ill-fated Sir Ilugh 
 Willoughby, with instructions to find a north-east passage to 
 Cathay and India. Ue succeeded in reaching Nova Zembla; 
 there he encountered the formidable ice-fields of the Arctic Ocean, 
 was forced back in a south-westerly direction to the coast of Lap- 
 land, where he and his whole ship's company were found frozen 
 to death ! 
 
 Richard Chancellor, who was the real navigator of this expe- 
 dition, and sailed in one of the three vessels composing it, reach- 
 ed the north coast of Russia, landed and made his way to the 
 presence of the Czar, from whom he obtained the mercantile privi- 
 leges which resulted in founding the famous "Muscovy Com- 
 pany" of London. 
 
 frobisheb's gold. 
 
 The next movement of importance were the voyages made in 
 1576-78 by the renowned Frobisher. He was an early and zeal- 
 ous advocate of the north-west route, and spent many years in 
 fruitless attempts to get his mercantile friends to invest in the 
 project of a voyage of exploration, which he believed would be 
 successful under his leadership ; but so many of this class had 
 suffered pecuniary losses in previous expeditions that he was un- 
 able to procure a ship. 
 
 Failing with the " mercenarie men of trade," he next turned to 
 the Court, and finally succeeded in enlisting the sympathy and 
 aid of Elizabeth's ministers. On his first voyage he collected, 
 from the shores of what he called a strait, but what Charles 
 Francis Hall discovered to be a bay, a quantity of black ore, 
 thinking that it contained gold, and with this treasure returned 
 to England. 
 
 To those who have read Captain Hall's work, narrating his ex- 
 plorations in that vicinity, the whole subject of " Frobisher's gold" 
 must be familiar. Some of the metallurgists of London appear 
 to have been either deceived themselves, or connived at deceiv- 
 ing others into the belief that mining could be profitably con- 
 ducted in the country north of what was then called Frobisher 
 Strait ; and for a while Sir Martin Frobisher and the riches of 
 
28 
 
 ARCTIC KXPERIENCES. 
 
 HALL DISOOVEBINa FKOUISUEB BELIOB. 
 
 the new Cathaj was the latest sensation of the Court circle. He 
 received the encouragement and patronage of Elizabeth herself 
 on two succeeding voyages ; but neither his own private fortune 
 nor the royal coffers appear to have been replenished by the 
 " witches gold." It is proper to add, that scientific observations, 
 as understood in those days, were not neglected. 
 
 GILBERT AND OIHERS. 
 
 The chivalrous and courtly Sir Iluniphrey Gilbert was anoth- 
 er of the Elizabethan courtiers who was persuaded of the prac- 
 ticability of a north-west passage to China, if not India. He was 
 a navigator of great skill and experience, and made two voyages 
 of discovery to the north coast of America ; and, on his second, 
 he took formal possession of the island of Newfoundland in the 
 name of the British Queen. But he was not permitted to partici- 
 
GILBERT AND OTHERS. 
 
 29 
 
 pate in the honors which awaited him in his own country. His 
 ship foundered at sea, and ail on board perished, thus experien- 
 cing, as the poet sings of him in the ballad, 
 
 " It was as near to heaven 
 By water as by land." 
 
 John Davis, the discoverer of the strait which bears his name, 
 also surveyed a considerable part of the coast of Greenland as fai- 
 north as the seventy-third degree. 
 
 During all this time the Dutch, the French, and the Danes were 
 not idle; but they went principally to the north-east. Barentz 
 made three voyages, 1594-96. He started under great disadvan- 
 tages, being inexperienced and far from properly furnished ; but 
 he was brave and persevering, and what man could do under such 
 circumstances he did ; on his third voyage he had to abandon his 
 
 BABEMTZ'S WINTEB-qUABTEBB. 
 
30 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 ship, and with his crew take to the boats, but unfortunately per- 
 ished from exposure and xhaustion when near Icy Cape, a head- 
 land of Russian America, i.i the Arctic Ocean. Ilis house, which 
 he built on land for winter-quarters, was d'scovered by a Norwe- 
 gian whaler, named Carlsen, in 1871, on an island E.S.E. of Nova 
 Zembla. . 
 
 Many others, whom we have not space to mention, fill out the 
 long list of bold and hardy adventurers whom neither continued 
 disaster nor threatened death could turn from their purpose; and 
 no doubt some nameless heroes, who did not happen to rank high 
 enough to catch the "sounding trump of fame," might, if we knew 
 their humble history, their faithful courage and endurance, out- 
 shine in merit all the rest. 
 
 But, regardless of individual virtue, history inexorably fixes 
 her pivotal points upon those men and events which form a nec- 
 essary connecting link with the times past and the time coming. 
 In accordance with this mode of selection, the name of Henry 
 Hudson starts to the front as a prominent standard-bearer in the 
 work of Arctic exploration. His first voyage was made under 
 the direction of the old Muscovy Company, in 1607. Considering 
 the previous history and the many failures of preceding explor- 
 ers, he received the somewhat astonishing order " to go direct to 
 the North Pole !" He did what he could to obey orders, and 
 reached 81" 30', steering due north along Spitzbergen, until he 
 proved that course to be impossible. The next year he started out 
 again, with the intent, we presume, to accomplish indirectly what 
 he had failed to do directly ; at least, on this voyage he stood to 
 the north-east, but got only to 75° N. Once more, in the suc- 
 ceeding year, he tried the same course, but meeting with heavy 
 ice, he turned about and sailed toward the west, and, reaching 
 the American coast, began anew the search for a north-west pas- 
 sage. He did not find that, but he found something better; he 
 discovered New York Bay and the Hudson Eiver, and then, 
 needing to be reprovisioned, sailed for home. 
 
 Returning in 1610 — his fourth voyage — he directed his course 
 farther north, struck the straits, and sailed through to the mag- 
 nificent bay, both of which waters bear his name. On the great 
 bay he sailed several hundred miles, farther to the west than any 
 one had yet penetrated, and wintered on an island in its mouth — 
 Southampton Island ; and then tried again, in the spring, to find 
 
HENRY HUDSON. 31 
 
 ilBNBY UaUBON. 
 
 tbe long-sought passage to the Pacitic. But the long cold winter, 
 with insufficient food, had told on the moral as well as physical 
 condition of the men, the hardier portion of whom were com- 
 pletely demoralized, and finally mutinied against any further de- 
 tention in these Western waters. The end of this noble man was 
 sad indeed: with his son and several sick sailors he was turned 
 adrift in an open boat, while the mutinous crew took possession 
 of the vessel and stores. One noble-hearted, faithful man, John 
 King, the ship's carpenter, voluntarily accompanied him, and 
 shared his fate. The ringleader of the mutinous crew, with five 
 others, was killed by the natives : several others died, some of 
 starvation ; and the rest managed to get the ship back to England ; 
 but Henry Hudson, with his seven companions, was never heard 
 of more. 
 
 As the sad story finally leaked out, there arose, mingled with 
 pity for Hudson's fate, and indignation against the mutineers, a 
 buoyant feeling of expectancy over the great discoveries which 
 had been made. It was now confidently believed that the pas- 
 sage was absolutely found, that it was only necessary to sail on 
 and on through the water which we now know to be a bay, to 
 reach the China Seas. In consequence of this impression, the 
 next few years saw several other voyagers sailing for " Hudson's 
 great sea," in the pursuit of which several minor discoveries were 
 achieved. Fox Channel, Sir Thomas Kowe's "Welcome, and 
 
32 ARCTIC EXI'ERIENCES. 
 
 Other waters were partially explored ; the excitement was kept up 
 to an exceptionally high tone ; and this prolific period culminated 
 in the discovery of the great bay to the north of Davis Strait by 
 William Baffin in 1616. lie explored the western coast of this 
 water to the mouth of Lancaster Sound, and none went farther 
 than he to the north-west for another half-century. 
 
 The hopes and expectations which the discovery of Hudson's 
 Bay had excited finally faded, until anticipation was extinguish- 
 ed by the ever-recurring fact that all the discoverers eventually 
 came back to England, and, whatever else they found, they did 
 not find a practicable passage to the Indies. In addition to these 
 rear: -T; > enterprise was now in a measure directed to the coloni- 
 zation of the Atlantic coast, now within the limits of the United 
 Slates; and though voyages continued to be made, both to the 
 north-east and the north-west, and in the former direction many 
 sledge expeditions were planned, yet no important discovery for 
 many years again aroused the enthusiasm of the English nation. 
 
 RUSSIAN EXPLORERS. 
 
 During this time the Russians were particularly active in their 
 scientific experiments upon the variation of the magnetic needle, 
 and in the examination of other phenomena in such portions of 
 the Arctic regions as lay accessible to them. The most enduring 
 results obtained by the Russians in the early part of the eight- 
 eenth century was achieved by Vitus Behring, a captain in the 
 Russian Navy, who, for his tried courage and skillful seamanship, 
 was appointed by Peter the Great to the command of a voyage 
 of discovery. In 1728 he explored the northern coasts of Kanit- 
 schatka as far north as 67° 18', thus making the discovery of the 
 straits which separate Asia from America, previous to which, the 
 impression prevailed that the continents were there united. But 
 it was still uncertain whether the land to the east of the straits 
 was a part of the main-land, or only islands scattered along the 
 coast. To determine this, in 1741 he sailed from Okhotsk, intend- 
 ing to explore the American coast ; he twice made the land, but 
 was driven back by violent storms, and at last he was cast upon 
 a desolate ice-covered island, since named for him, where he died. 
 The crew managed to subsist with the aid derived from the 
 wrecked vessel, out of which, in the spring, they built a small 
 sailing craft, and in August reached the coast of Kamtschatka; 
 
GOVERNMENT REWARDS OFFERED. 
 
 33 
 
 BABOK VON WBiLNUEL. 
 
 but the gallant Behring lives only in the straits and island which 
 preserve his name. Other Russian expeditions followed, among 
 which was that of Shalaeloff in 1760, who died of starvation, and 
 some others, which accomplished little, concluding this series with 
 the important sledge journey of Baron Von Wrangel and Anjou 
 in 1820-23, which had a marked influence upon the opinions and 
 subsequent course adopted by nearly all of the succeeding British 
 explorers. These intelligent and persevering Russians attained 
 to lat 70° 51' N., long. 155° 25' W., then met the open sea, for 
 which they were not prepared. Thus, in all the expeditions so 
 far sent out in ships, the way had been barred at different points 
 by impenetrable ice, while those who had essayed the trans-gla- 
 cial plan had been met with interposing arms of the sea which as 
 effectively stayed their progress. 
 
 GOVERNMENT REWARDS OFFERED. 
 
 As early as 1743 the British Parliament had offered £20,000 
 for the discovery of a passage by the Hudson Bay route, which 
 
 3 
 
84 AKCTIC EXl'EKIEXCES. 
 
 Stimulated once more the flagging enthusiasm, and several voy- 
 agers sailed ; some through Behring Strait to the east, hoping 
 thus to reaeh Hudson Bay by the imaginary oeean, vvhieh then 
 existed in the brains of nearly all Aretie explorers. 
 
 Between 1769 and 1772, Ilearne made three land trips, on the 
 last of whieh he discovered the Coppermine Kiver, which he 
 traced to its sourv 3. The next year Captain Phipps, afterward 
 Lord Mulgrave, was sent out by the Admiralty, with orders to 
 make for the North Pole — this object to take precedence of all 
 others; meteorological, magnetical, and other scientific observa- 
 tions were also to be made objects of investigation ; and thereaf- 
 ter geographical science became a successful rival to the mercan- 
 tile spirit, which had hitherto dictated the instructions given in 
 previous expeditions, Phipps went the Spitzbcrgen route, but 
 reached only 80° 48' — not as far north as Hudson attained sixty- 
 six years before. 
 
 Undiscouraged, the British Parliament again took up the sub- 
 ject, and, though now involved in the preliminary quarrel which 
 resulted in the loss of her American colonies, her ministry had 
 still eyes, ears, and thoughts for discoveries in the far North. In 
 1776 the British Government offered, in addition to the standing 
 reward of £20,000 for the actual discovery of the pole, the same 
 sum for any through route, and £5000 to any one who should 
 reach to within one degree of the pole. 
 
 In the mean time, the famous Captain Cook was ordered to 
 the search for the pole. lie went through Behring Strait, and 
 got only to 70° 45'. A vessel had gone out to Baffin Bay in the 
 hope of meeting him, but, as is well known, his voyage terminated 
 fatally to himself, and unsuccessfully as regarded the object in 
 view. 
 
 The next important discovery was that of the Mackenzie River 
 in 1789. 
 
 . ■ EARLY AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. 
 
 In the American colonies, too, emulation was ripe, though the 
 means of fitting out large expeditions did not exist; but as early 
 as 1754 we find that private enterprise was directed to the same 
 point of attraction.' In the Qentleman^s Magazine of that year is 
 an account of the voyages of the Jr/zo, of Philadelphia. Captain 
 Charles Swayne had made two voyages in search of a north-west 
 
THE WIIALEU SCUUKSBY. f^ 
 
 f)ai?sage, obtaining valuable information of the coast of Labrador 
 and Hudson Bay, but failing to get north of hit. f>r>^ 
 
 In 1772 some gentlemen in Virginia, moved by the same desire 
 whieh had actuated the enterprise of the civilized world for cen- 
 turies, fitted out the brig iJi/igence, under the command of Captain 
 Wilder, who also made Hudson Bay, and sailed about its broad 
 waters north and west, thinking to find a passage, and believing 
 there was one ; but, repelled by the ice, he retreated, and afterward 
 made the latitude of 69° IT in Davis Strait. 
 
 THE WHALKK SCORESBY. 
 
 The name of William Scoresby may justly be considered as 
 the connecting link between the old explorers — the adventures 
 made almost solely in the interest of commerce, and those more 
 liberal modern enterprises, conducted in the spirit of the newly- 
 dawning scientific era. 
 
 And yet Scoresby's name scarcely figures, even incidentally, in 
 any general record of Arctic heroes, for the simple reason that 
 the British Government, though availing itself of his knowledge 
 and experience, was unwilling to confer its honors on any except 
 those of the Koyal Navy. 
 
 William Scoresby, though an eminently learned and scientific 
 man, was for many years known only as a successful and enter- 
 prising whaler. It was on one of these voyages, in the year 1806, 
 while lying-to for whales in what is known as the "Greenland 
 Seas," on the east side of Greenland, ii\ lat. 78° 46' N., that he 
 thought that he would venture to deviate from the usual whale- 
 man's track, and penetrate, if possible, to the " Polar Sea," in 
 which he fully believed. Spreading nis sails, and with a good 
 wind, he soon left the whaling fleet behind him, and shortly after 
 encountered the heavy ice which he knew he must penetrate to 
 reach the open water beyond. With consummate skill, tact, and 
 boldness he bored his way through the pack-ice, and, undismayed 
 at the novelty of his position, separated from his companion ves- 
 sels; with the great ice barrier between him and civilization, he 
 bravely pushed on toward the north, where his hopes were grati' 
 fied, and his opinions confirmed, by finding a "great openness or 
 sea of water." He reached the high latitude of «1° 30' N., 19° E. 
 long., seas ne er before visited by whalemen, and never previous- 
 ly attained in either hemisphere except by Hudson. Parry after- 
 
S6 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 WILLIAM HUUUiClillV. 
 
 ward went higher in his sledge journey, but not in a sailing ves- 
 sel. But Scoresby was something more than a whaler. On each 
 voyage he added something to accurate geographical knowledge 
 by surveying the coast and islands which he visited, and by him 
 a large portion of the eastern coast of Greenland was first accu- 
 rately traced, and prominent points named. lie corrected the ther- 
 mometrical statements and other incorrect so-called scientific in- 
 formation of his day; he experimented on the temperature of 
 deep-sea water, on terrestrial magnetism, and other natural phe- 
 nomena, and published many interesting papers relating to the 
 meteorology and zoology of the Arctic regions. 
 
THE WHALER SCORESBY. 37 
 
 Ross and Franklin had both dilated upon the curious phenom- 
 enon of red snow observed in their Arctic voyages ; and in 1828 
 Scoresby analyzed a portion of the colored snow of Greenland, 
 and found that the coloring matter consisted of exceedingly mi- 
 nute marine infusoria. 
 
 As early as 1814 he had published a paper on the " Polar Ice," 
 including a "Project for reaching the North Pole." He made 
 fifteen voyages, in which he touched 80° N., the results of which 
 were made public in a book entitled the "Arctic Regions," in 1816. 
 At this time he was considered by all the intelligent friends of 
 Arctic exploration as an authority upon all matters connected 
 with the Polar region. 
 
 It was out of a correspondence which he held with Sir Joseph 
 Banks in 1817, that was evolved the combination of events which 
 led to the equipment of those mixed land and water explorations 
 commanded by Parry, Ross, and Franklin. 
 
 The eminent French savant, M. de la Roquette, in his memoirs 
 of the latter, addressed to the Geographical Society of France, 
 says : " In spite of previous discoveries, the subject of Arctic ex- 
 plorations was again almost forgotten, when an English rhaler, 
 an intelligent and intrepid sailor, who had for many years navi- 
 gated the Greenland seas, demonstrated the possibility of effecting 
 a per-glacial voyage across to the Pacific. In a letter written by 
 him to Sir Joseph Banks, this ivlialer^ Scoresby the younger, nar- 
 rated a remarkable circumstance which he had witnessed during 
 his last voyage in 1817." (This statement referred to a great dis- 
 ruption or removal of the usual ice barrier, which occurred in 
 1816-17, in the parallel of the island of Jan Mayen, and near the 
 eastern coast of Greenland.) 
 
 " This information, a similar condition of the ice occurring also in 
 1806, awakened in England the long-dormant projects for attain- 
 ing the North Pole, and for opening up the north-west passage." 
 
 In 1835 Sir John Ross made the same admissions in the preface 
 to a work on his own voyages, observing, "that a sort of renais- 
 sance of public interest in Arctic affairs had followed upon the 
 publication of Scoresby's views, as given to Sir Joseph Banks." 
 From one of these letters we extract the following : 
 
 "Scoresby says: 'I mentioned the fact of a large body of the 
 usual ices having disappeared out of the Greenland Sea, and the 
 consequent openness of the navigation toward the west, whereby 
 
38 •• ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 I was enabled to penetrate, within sight of the east coast of Green- 
 land, to a meridian which had been usually considered quite inac- 
 cessible. After some account of the state and confitruration of 
 the ice, and our progress among it, I proceeded to remark on the 
 facilities which on this occasion were presented for making re- 
 searches in these interesting regions, * * * toward decidinrj wJieth- 
 er or not a navinatiori into the Pacific, either by a north-east or north- 
 west passage, existed. I also expressed a wish to be employed in 
 such researches through a series of voyages, that the most favor- 
 able seasons might be improved to the best advantage, and that 
 the most complete investigation might be accomj)]ished ; and, by 
 the way of avoiding unnecessary expense, I proposed to combine 
 the object of the whale-fishery with that of discovery, on every 
 occasion when the situation of the ice was unfavorable for scien- 
 tific research. Since no one can possibly state, from observation 
 of the ice in any one season, what opportunity may occur on a 
 subsequent occasion, it would be well to have this reserve bal- 
 ing) for the reduction of the expenditure, in the event of the op- 
 portunity for discovery failing.' " This was evidently too sensible 
 an idea to penetrate the brains of the British Naval Office. 
 
 Seven weeks after this letter was written, a notice appeared in 
 the public prints of the day, " that, owing to the statements of the 
 Greenland captains respecting the diminution of the Polar ice, the 
 Royal Society had applied to ministers to send out vessels in the 
 Polar Seas." 
 
 It was reasonably expected by Scoresby and his friends that 
 he would have been appointed to the command, if an expedition 
 was planned; but red tape prevailed: the Admiralty were fixed 
 in their opinion that none but officers of the Eoyal Navy were 
 capable of commanding an exploring expedition. Scoresby was 
 offered a subordinate position ; but this he naturally refused to 
 accept. 
 
 In August the British expedition entered Lancaster Sound, 
 and sailed up it for sixty miles, when they thought they sa^v land 
 at the end, and thence concluded it to be a bay. The weather was 
 bad, which prevented their examining its contour more closely, 
 and they put about, exploring the sound to the south and east, 
 and then returned to England in October of the same year. 
 
 Captain Ross, who also visited the sound, likewise thought it a 
 bay, but some of his officers, including Parry, were of a different 
 
CAPTAIN PARRY. 
 
 39 
 
 opinion, and, on the return of the expedition to England, the 
 question of " sou-^d" or " bay " was the topic of much interested 
 and not a little ; -gry discussion. The English public were dis- 
 satisfied, and Parry's followers being the more energetic party, 
 aided him in preparing a private expedition to go back, and, by 
 actual survey, to settle the point. 
 
 He sailed in May, 1819, in the Uecla, with a consort, the Oriper^ 
 under command of Lieutenant Lyon ; these vessels carried a com- 
 bined crew of ninety-four men, and were furnished with provisions 
 
 CAPTAIN PAREY, 
 
 for two years. On their way up Baffin Bay, they encountered 
 ice on the 18th of June, and were temporarily "beset" on the 
 25th ; but a lead opening, they reached Lancaster Sound on the 
 30th of July, but not without trouble, though they were fortunate 
 enough, early in August, to find the sound free, and a channel, 
 which they followed to the mouth of Barrow Strait, thus finally 
 exploding the idea of its being a bay. The strait Parry entered 
 and sailed through as far as Prince Regent Inlet, which, with 
 many other capes, points, bays, headlands, and so forth, he named. 
 As he approached the magnetic pole, he found his compasses of 
 
40 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 but little use, so great was the dip of the needle. The hopes of 
 officers and crew were greatly excited, and when, after encount- 
 ering immense difficulties, he, on September 4, crossed the one 
 hundred and thirteenth degree of west longitude, he told the men 
 that the Ilecla had earned the reward of £5000 offered by the Gov- 
 ernment, the enthusiasm knew no bounds. Two weeks later he 
 was beset ; but the crew cut a passage through the ice till a lead 
 was reached, and the party attained Melville Island in safety. 
 Here Parry wintered, using every opportunity to explore the 
 country in different directions, and adding largely to the topo- 
 graphical and hydrographical knowledge of the day respecting 
 that region of country. In June of that year (1820) it was yet 
 very cold ; but a thaw set in early in July, and on the 2d of 
 August the ice broke up and set them at liberty. Two weeks 
 later they were again beset for a time ; but getting clear with 
 great exertions, they started for home, where they were received 
 with hearty welcomes ; and on a report of the discoveries made 
 being published, the utmost satisfaction was expressed both by 
 the Government and the public press. 
 
 The successes of Parry had, however, but whetted the public 
 appetite, and the next year he sailed again, with instructions to 
 go to Kepulse Bay by the way of Hudson Strait, with the 
 hope that thus the dangerous encounters with the "middle ice" 
 might be avoided. On this occasion he again sailed in the Ilecla, 
 with the Fury as consort, of which Captain Lyon was in com- 
 mand. They reached the terminus of Hudson Strait in August, 
 1821, and from there sailed north to Fox Channel, and thence 
 to Repulse Bay, in hopes of finding an outlet to the north or 
 west, and for that purpose made careful and extensive explora- 
 tions; but were early beset in the ice, and in September cut a 
 dock for the vessels in a heavy floe, from which they were not 
 released until the next July. During the winter they occupied 
 the time in sledge journeys of exploration, and in recording the 
 results of their scientific experiments. They went carefully over 
 the course, including Lyon Inlet, then through Fox Channel to 
 the strait uniting the latter with Boothia Gulf, naming the strait 
 Fury and Hccla. They reached the middle of these straits in 
 September, 1822. Here they wintered, remaining until August, 
 1823, when they returned to England. 
 
REMARKABLE LAND JOURNEYS. 41 
 
 EXPLORATIONS CONDUCTED ON FOOT. 
 
 During the period in which Parry had made two voyages, the 
 other expedition (overland), which had started in September, 
 1819, from York Factory, on the west side of Hudson Bay, and 
 which was expected to explore the coast from the Coppermine 
 River east, was undergoing a fearful experience. The leaders 
 were Sir John Franklin (then lieutenant), and Dr. Richardson. 
 There were also two midshipmen, Messrs. Hood and Back 
 (afterward Sir George), and a seaman named Hepburn. It had 
 been arranged in England that if Parry made the coast on his 
 first voyage, he was to co-operate with this small but energetic 
 land party. 
 
 The latter, leaving York Factory in September, after almost un- 
 paralleled suflferings — with cold beyond measurement, for their 
 thermometer was frozen — finally reached Chipewyan, a d6p6t of 
 the Hudson Bay Company, after a foot journey of eight hundred 
 and fifty-six miles! Resting here for a while in Jul}', 1820, they 
 traveled to Fort Enterprise, where was a small hut containing 
 stores, making five hundred miles more. Here they wintered, 
 while Mr. Back returned to Fort Chipewyan to hurry on supplies 
 for the next season. It was during the absence of Mr. Back that 
 an Iroquois hunt-, in the employment of the party, shot Mid- 
 shipman Hood, with the intention, as Franklin and Richardson 
 supposed, of eating him ; whereupon Dr. Richardson took the re- 
 sponsibility, and deliberately shot the Indian through the head. 
 
 The hardships which they had endured had reduced their 
 strength of body and mind almost to inanity ; and Mr. Back 
 also suffered great hardships on his journey, but his indomitable 
 will and great physical endurance brought him through, and 
 he reached Fort Enterprise, with supplies of provisions, on the 
 17th of March, 1821. He traveled eleven hundred miles on this 
 journey, sometimes for two or three days without food, and at 
 night having for covering but one blanket and a deer-skin, the 
 thermometer much of the time registering from 47° to 57° below 
 zero. 
 
 Mr. Back having rejoined his party with supplies from Fort 
 Chipewyan, they started again from Fort Franklin, where they 
 had halted, dragging their provisions and canoes to the Copper- 
 mine River, eighty miles distant. Embarking in these frail boats, 
 
42 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 they sailed seaward, and reached the coast of what they supposed 
 to be the sea about the middle of July. They then turned to the 
 east, sailing and paddling alternately, as circumstances required, 
 for five hundred and fifty miles — all the time thinking they were 
 going toward the Arctic Ocean : at the end of that time they 
 found they had only been navigating an immense bay. Con- 
 vinced at last of this, on reaching Dease Strait they called the 
 headland Cape Tuiuuguiij, auu sadly prepared to retrace their 
 course. A more disappointed party could scarcely be imagined. 
 To add to their perplexity, they found they had only food for a 
 few days, and no signs of animal life which promised them a sub- 
 stitute. However, they manfully set to work and built two ca- 
 noes, with which they entered Hood River a short distance west 
 of Point Turnagain. Food failing them, they were reduced to 
 the utmost extremity, and became so weak in consequence that 
 they abandoned the canoes they had con.structed, being unable 
 to drag them around certain rapids which they encountered. 
 Some days they managed to gather a little rock-tripe or moss, 
 and finally ate their old shoes and scraps of leather attached to 
 other articles. Two of their number died of exhaustion ; but at 
 last, when all were nearly at the point of death from starvation, 
 their eyes were cheered by the sight of York Factory, from which 
 they had started out three years before, having in their absence 
 traveled over fifty-five hundred miles — notable specimens of what 
 the human frame, when controlled by an intelligent will, is capa- 
 ble of enduring. They brought up at this haven of rest in July, 
 1823, and soon after returned to England. 
 
 COMBINED SEA AND LAND EXPLORATIONS. 
 
 A few months only elapsed before another expedition was pro- 
 posed, on a larger scale than any which had yet been projected. 
 This consisted of four divisions. 
 
 One vessel, under Parry, was destined for Prince Regent In- 
 let, which it was thought opened at the south. The second party, 
 under Franklin, was ordered to go down the Mackenzie River to 
 the sea, and then divide, part to travel to the eastward, and. the 
 others with Franklin to the westward until they struck Behring 
 Strait. Captain Beechey was ordered to sail round Cape Horn 
 .to Behring Strait, and thence to make Kotzebue Sound, and 
 wait there for Franklin. The fourth party, 'inder Captain Lyon, 
 
COMBINED SEA AND LAND EXPLORATIONS. 4$ 
 
 in the Griper, was to go to the south of Southampton Island, up 
 Rowe's Welcome to Repulse Bay, then cross Melville Isthmus to 
 Point Turnagain. The object of the whole expedition being to 
 secure, if possible, a thorough exploration of the space between 
 the eastern and western shores of the North American continent, 
 and the correct configuration of its northern boundary, the ex- 
 pedition, therefore, contemplated and was prepared for both land 
 and sea travel. 
 
 Captain Lyon's part was soon finished. His vessel was twice 
 nearly wrecked, and he abandoned the further pursuit eighty 
 miles from Repulse Bay. 
 
 Parry sailed in May, 1824, in the Funj, with the Ileda as con- 
 sort, and reached Lancaster Sound ; but was there caught in the 
 ice and had to winter at Port Bo wen. The Furi/ was afterward 
 wrecked, and Parry took both crews back to England in the 
 Ilecla. 
 
 Franklin's party had a more extended service. With him was 
 Dr. Richardson, Lieutenant Back, and Messrs. Kendall and Drum- 
 mond, the latter a naturalist of reputation. They got to Fort 
 Chipewyan in July, 1825, and from there went to the Great Bear 
 Lake to winter. From thence, in pursuance of orders, Franklin 
 undertook the descent of the Mackenzie River, which he accom- 
 plished, reaching the sea at lat. 69° 14' N., long. 135° 57' W., a dis- 
 tance of one thousand and forty-five miles. 
 
 On the 28th of June, 1826, the whole remaining portion of 
 Franklin's party also went down the river to its mouth, and there 
 separated, Franklin going to the west, and Dr. Richardson to the 
 east. The former skirted the coast, which trended to the north- 
 north-west till he reached lat. 70° 24', and long. 149° 39' W. 
 Here his further progress was barred, and he named the place 
 Return Reef. The weather was excessively bad, and, as usual, 
 provisions were short. He was also unaware of the fact that 
 Captain Beechey was waiting for him only one hundred and 
 forty -six miles farther west; for Beechey, in the Blossom, had 
 passed Behring Strait, had gone to Chamisso Island, in Kotze- 
 bue Sound, where, getting no information of Franklin, he went 
 north -north -east to Point Barrow, and from there, forwarding 
 boat parties, he awaited their return until it became dangerously 
 late in the season, when he put off for winter-quarters in Petro- 
 paulovski. One of his boat parties returned in time to accom- 
 
44 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 pany him; the other proceeded to the south-east (overland) to 
 the posts of the Hudson Bay Company. 
 
 In the mean time Franklin returned to the Mackenzie, hav- 
 ing explored the whole coast for three hundred and seventy-four 
 miles to the north-north-west, wLich in its intricacies involved, in 
 coming and going, over two thousand miles. 
 
 Dr. Kichardson had during the time made an extended jour- 
 ney to the east, but without developing any special points of in- 
 terest. 
 
 The whole expclition once more met and wintered at Great 
 Bear Lake, where they established a series of valuable observa- 
 tions on terrestrial magnetism. And it was a curious incident 
 that Parry's quarters, at only an interval of one year apart, were 
 situated at the oppos'te side of the magnetic pole, just eight hun- 
 dred and fifty-five miles distant, bot^ parties making the same 
 observations. And thus, while the needle at Port Bowen was 
 regularly increasing its western direction, that at Fort Franklin, 
 pointing directly toward it, was increasing its easterly — a beauti- 
 ful and conclusive proof of solar influence upon the daily varia- 
 tion. Captain Beechey returned to his appointed rendezvous the 
 succeeding year ; but he and Franklin never again met. 
 
 THE ERA OF MODERN DISCOVERIES. 
 
 In 1818 commenced what may be called the modern era of 
 Arctic exploration, primarily induced, as we have shown, by the 
 writings and influence of Scoresby, and aided to the last by Sir 
 John Barrow, the faithful advocate of Arctic explorations. In 
 this year two expeditions were fitted out by the British Govern- 
 ment, the one under Captain Eoss and Lieutenant Parry, the oth- 
 er under Captain Buchan and Lieutenant (afterward Sir John) 
 Franklin, the last being more particularly devoted to scientific 
 investigations. 
 
 The orders of the scientific party were to go, between Spitz- 
 bergen and Greenland, as far north as possible. Here they found 
 the temperature far milder than they expected, and attained the 
 highest latitude yet reached ; but it was not without great dan- 
 ger — the ice floes surrounded them on all sides, and one ship, the 
 Dorothea, was completely shattered. Nevertheless the philosoph- 
 ical experiments, on the elliptical figure of the earth especially, 
 were conducted with very interesting results; also experiments 
 
PARRY'S DRIFT. 45 
 
 in refraction and magnetic phenomena. In April they started 
 to return, and were beset with ice not far from Waggat Isl- 
 and, but cleared themselves, and made for the coast of Green- 
 land. 
 
 parry's drift. 
 
 The year 1827 saw Captain Parry at the head of another expe- 
 dition destined for the north shore of Spitzbergen, supplied with 
 two well-built covered boats, so arranged that they could be put 
 on runners, and thus dragged as a sledge where they could not 
 be floated. Arrived at Spitzbergen, he started on the ice, pro- 
 vided with food estimated for seventy -one days; but the journey 
 was not to prove so easy in reality as it did in the instructions of 
 the Naval Office. First, they were impeded with thin ice, through 
 which the boat could not sail, and which was not strong enough 
 to travel over; next, it was rough ice, which threatened contin- 
 ually to rack the sledge-runners to pieces — and worse, snow- 
 blindness attacked nearly the whole party. This evil they en- 
 deavored to circumvent by abandoning day travel entirely, and 
 moving forward only at night — a night, however, which was by 
 no means dark in that latitude in summer. 
 
 Considering the outlay of exertion, the gains appeared insig- 
 nificant. The first five days they had made only ten miles. 
 They had hoped this time surely to reach the Pole; but appre- 
 ciating the difficulty with every step, the leading officers agreed 
 with Parry that they would be content could tbey make the 
 eighty-third parallel ; but in their problem was an unknown quan- 
 tity which they had not taken into the account. Unperceived by 
 them for a while, and still longer unaccounted for, was the strange 
 fact that, no matter how many miles they traveled toward the 
 north, at each observation they found themselves steadily moving 
 south. The ice was moving beneath them, carrying them south 
 with every hour. This was an obstacle which no human inge- 
 nuity could remove. At 82° 45' they gave up the contest, find- 
 ing that, though they had traveled nearly three hundred miles 
 over ice and through water, they were yet but one hundred and 
 seventy-two miles from the Hecla. Burying their great hopes in 
 a sad but blameless failure, they got back to the ship on the 
 21st of August, and returned to England. 
 
 It was no wonder that the zeal of the Government officers be- 
 
46 ARCTIC EXI'EKIENCES. 
 
 gan to flag under such repeated disappointments, and that in 
 consequence we find that the next serious effort was made under 
 the auspices and with the means of a private enthusiast. 
 
 STEAM FIRST USED IX THE ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
 Sir Felix Booth, an ardent friend of Arctic exploration, fitted 
 out the Victory, putting her under the command of Captain John 
 Ross, who was accompanied by his nephew, Sir James Koss. With 
 
 BIB JOHN BOSB. 
 
 the Victory a new element appears, hitherto a stranger to Arctic 
 waters — steam. The Victory was fitted with a steam boiler, to 
 be "'!sed in calm weather." The expectation still was that a 
 north-west passage could be made through Prince Regent 
 Inlet. 
 
 The Victory soiled in May, 1829, and reached the inlet on the 
 9th of August, and came up with the wreck of the Fury on the 
 12th ; on the 15th they got to "Parry's farthest;" here they en- 
 
SEVEN MILES IN TVVO YEARS! 47 
 
 countered serious difficulty with ice, but, persevering, managed to 
 work along three hundred miles on a coast-line not hitherto ex- 
 plored, reaching to within two hundred miles of the extreme 
 point reached by Franklin on his last expedition. 
 
 Ilere the shore trended to the west, and though now closed by 
 ice, Ross thought that these two hundred miles would be navi- 
 gable at some time of the year, and he would await his oppor- 
 tunity; but the present season was now over. October had 
 overtaken them, and on the 7th inst. they went into winter- 
 quarters at what is now known as Felix Harbor. There ice 
 fetters held them fast for eleven months. Not until Septem- 
 ber, 1830, did they get under way, and then only made tliree 
 miles, when they were again beset, and obliged to winter until 
 August, 1831, when they made /owr miles more; and on the 27th 
 of September they were once more fast for the season. Seven 
 miles in two years ! -:. - . ; >, :, 
 
 ROSS KEACHES THE MAGNETIC POLE. 
 
 Ross could stand that rate no longer. In April of 1832 his 
 nephew, James C. Ross, made a sledge excursion to the west, and 
 reached and fixed the magnetic pole in lat. 70° 5' 17" N,, 
 long. 96° 46' 45" W. 
 
 But two Arctic winters had told upon the health of the crew ; 
 the scurvy broke out, and with it the despondency which usually 
 accompanies, and is often the precursor of, that disease. The ship 
 was obliged to be abandoned, and the whole company started 
 east, taking their boats on sledges. Their first objective point was 
 the wreck of the Fury^ where at least some shelter could be ob- 
 tained, and also material, and possibly stores; they endured ter- 
 rible hardships on the way, but managed to get there on the 1st 
 of July, but were too much reduced to go farther at that time, 
 and before they were recuperated sufficiently, winter weather was 
 upon them, and at Fury beach they were compelled to remain 
 through the season of 1832-33. The suffering among all parties, 
 especially the crew, was intense ; many were fearfully sick, and 
 several died. With the opening of early summer they made des- 
 perate efforts, and on July 8 they reached the open sea. Here 
 they launched their boats, which they had dragged much of the 
 way, trusting that they might be seen and relieved by some 
 whaler. This fortunately happened ; they were picked up on the 
 
48 ARCTIC EXl'EUIENCES. 
 
 26th of August, 1833, by Captain Humphreys, of the Isabella. 
 Though he willingly received them on board, he did not recog- 
 nize the identity of Ross, nor at first believe their story: he 
 "thought Captain Ross's party had all been dead for two years," 
 but was finally convinced of his error, and in September landed 
 them at the Orkneys, whence they might get conveyance to En- 
 gland. They had been absent four years, from 1829 to 1833. 
 
 DISCOVEIty OF GREAT FISH KIVEK. 
 
 Seven months previous to their rescue and return, Lieutenant 
 Back, accompanied by Dr. King, naturalist, hud left England in 
 search of Ross and his party, and reached Fort Resolution, on Great 
 Bear Lake, in August, and from there went on to Musk Ox Lake, 
 to the north-east. Finding nothing of the parties, they returned to 
 winter at Fort Reliance, suffering much from lack of suflicient 
 food and the intensity of the cold. In April they had just plan- 
 ned a movement to the sea-coast, when they learned of Ross's 
 safety. In June they started on a boat excursion down the 
 Tlikw-ee-choh River, which he called the Great Fish River, since 
 named Back, which they hoped would lead them to the Polar 
 Sea ; and on July 29, after a hard and fatiguing journey of five 
 hundred and thirty miles, they reached the open water, at lat. 67*^ 
 11' N., long. 94° 30' W. ; but it was not the Polar Ocean. The 
 river they had followed led through a most desolate country : 
 neither trees nor vegetation were visible, except of diminutive 
 Hichens and mosses. But as game was sometimes observed, it is 
 quite possible that in the sheltered valleys, which the rocky bluffs 
 of the river hid from their siorht, the aspect of the country was 
 less forbidding. 
 
 After exploring the shores for some distance, meeting with 
 many obstacles, they turned back, and after four months of con- 
 tinuous travel reached again Fort Reliance, on Great Bear Lake, 
 in September, and from there returned home in the autumn of 
 1835. 
 
 DBASE AND SIMPSON'S EXPLORATIONS. 
 
 Two years later the Hudson Bay Company sent out two men, 
 Dcase and Simpson, with orders to go down the Mackenzie River 
 to the sea, and then to move along the coast to the west until 
 they reached the point where Beechey had waited for Franklin : 
 
DEASE AND MIMI'SONS EXPLORATIONS. 49 
 
 this they considered would complete the survey of the north 
 whore of the North American coast. They reached Return lieef 
 (Franklin's farthest west) in July, 1826, and up to this time no 
 one had been beyond this point from the east. They pushed on, 
 and finally got to Point Barrow (Heechey's extreme east), and thus 
 their task was happily completed. On their way they discovered 
 two large rivers, wliich they named respectively the Colville and 
 Garry; then returned to winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake. 
 
 In June of 1838 Messrs. Dease and Simpson, with others, start- 
 ed again for the north coast, by way of the Coppermine River. 
 intending this time to travel toward the east, but found them- 
 selves stoj)pcd by accumulations of ice. On this the party di- 
 vided : some took sledges and j)roceeded overland. They passed 
 Point Turnagain, the farthest point reached on the west on that 
 route; found Deasc Strait filled with ice, and at the eastern ter- 
 mination of the straits a large, bold headland, and to the north 
 an extensive tract of land, new to explorers, which they named 
 Victoria. There they clambered with great difficulty to the top 
 of a high, ice-bound cape, from which they were surprised to see 
 a broad sea beyond free from ice. Tliey explored forty miles of 
 Victoria Land to the east-north-east, concluding their survey in 
 the summer of 1838. 
 
 The next year they sailed through Dease Strait, and settled 
 the exact coast-line up to the point which Back reached in 1884, 
 and beyond found that the estuary of Back's, in which they 
 saihd, separates Boothia on the west from the American conti- 
 nent. They almost joined their discoveries to Ross's, and came 
 within ninety miles of the point he had fixed upon as the mag- 
 netic pole. These excursions of Dease and Simpson were among 
 the most useful which had been made, yet their names and labor 
 have been almost completely overshadowed by some who had 
 led much more expensive and sensational expeditions, but who 
 really added little to the general fund of geographical informa- 
 tion. Indeed, all the American coast north was now explored, 
 except that portion lying between Dease and Simpson's ex- 
 treme point west of Boothia and Ross's winter-quarters, on the 
 east of the same land, and that tract between Ross's quarters and 
 the extreme point reached by Parry in 1822, at the entrance of 
 Fury and Hecla straits. 
 
 4 
 
50 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 ir. BOOTBIA A PENINSULA OR AN ISLAND? 
 
 The question now to be settled was this: Could ships pass 
 betweii Boothia and the main-land ? On this parties were formed, 
 and while many book-geographers and parlor-sailors were quite 
 sure that they could, and vehemently argued that " nothing was 
 easier than to sail through Prince llegent Inlet and round the 
 southern coast of Boothia through to tiie north-west," others, and 
 these mostly Arctic travelers, held the matter in much doubt; 
 some affirming that Boothia was a peninsula, and not an island. 
 To settle the point, the Hudson Bay Company, which had now 
 become a steady patron of Arctic explorers, sent out Dr. John 
 Rae in the summer of lb46, he and his party reaching Chester- 
 field Inlet in July of that year. This expedition was prolific of 
 stupid opinions put forth by the British Board of Admiralty, as 
 will be seen by the context. 
 
 From Chesterfield Inlet Dr. Rae passed on to Repulse Bay, 
 then conveyed his boats to the Gulf of Akole. Being unable to 
 get farther that season, he returned to winter in Repulse Bay; 
 but in April of 18-47 he reached the inlet which Ross had found 
 on a land trip while wintering on the coast of Boothia, and on 
 which occasion the latter had proved the continuity of the coast 
 to that point; and thus, between them, it was proved beyond a 
 doubt that Boothia is joined to the main-land. 
 
 We said without a doubt, but it was not exactly so. Dr. Rae, 
 in a letter to Charles Dickens, then editor of Ilouscliold Words, 
 and published in vol. x., No. 19, says: "The Esquimaux tracing, 
 or delineation of coast, was entered in the Admiralty charts in 
 dotted lines [indicating doubt], until my survey of eighteen hun- 
 dred and forty -seven, which showed that in all material points 
 the accounts given by the natives were perfectly correct When 
 Sir John Ross wintered three years in Prince Regent Inlet, the 
 natives drew charts of the coast-line to the southward of his posi- 
 tion, and informed him that in that direction tJiere teas no tvater 
 communication leading to the western sea. Sir John Ross's state- 
 ments, founded on those of the natives, were not believed at the 
 Admiralty, nor were my oivn, in eighteen hundred and forty- 
 seven, although / saw the land all the way, and in which I was 
 supported by the Esquimaux information. The authorities at 
 the Admiralty would still have Boothia an island. Last spring 
 
FKANKLIN'S LAST EXrEDlTlON. 51 
 
 I proved beyond the possibility of a doubt the correctness of my 
 former report, * * * for luliere partien of la'yh standing at home 
 would insist on having nothing hut salt-water, I traveled over a neck 
 of land, or isthmus, sixty miles broad.'"' This was in accordance 
 with the spii'it which treated Baffin Bay as a myth when its ex- 
 istence was first announced by the original discoverer, and which 
 excluded it from the maps until rediscovered by Eoss. 
 
 It was on the 29ih of May, 1814, that Dr. Rae saw, during a 
 break in the clouds, which seemed to lift during a fearful storm 
 for the very purpose, a headland, which he named Cape Ellice, 
 in lat. 69° 42' N., and 85° 8' W., and which was within ten miles 
 of Fury and llecla straits; and this made the entire survey 
 complete, with the exception of the straits, and they were par- 
 tially known by the accounts of Dease and Simpson as well as 
 Parry. 
 
 SIR JOHN franklin's LAST EXPEDITION. 
 
 We now approach the most exciting era of Arctic research. 
 In May of 1845 the far-famed expedition of Sir John Franklin, 
 in the Erebus, with Captain Richard Crozier, in the Terror, start- 
 ed from England — that swarming place of Arctic adventurers. 
 Accompanying them was a tender, which, however, after un- 
 loading her provisions, was sent back from Davis Strait, The 
 Erebus and Terror were supplied with every thing which the 
 ample means of the Government could at that time provide. A 
 long detention was anticipated, and they were fully provisioned 
 for three years. 
 
 On the 26th of July, 1845, these ships were last seen by civil- 
 ized man. The master of the whaler Prince of Wales, Captain 
 Dannet, met them in lat. 74° 48' N., long. 66° 13' W. They were 
 then moored to an iceberg, apparently waiting for an opportunity 
 to get into Lancaster Sound. This was the final glance of rec- 
 ognition between those brave explorers and the representative 
 sailor of the race to which they belonged — the last intelligence 
 which reached the civilized world for years respecting them. 
 Where they went, how they reached Cape Riley and Beechey 
 Island, and what became of the two noble vessels, is yet a mystery 
 only partially solved. 
 
 The general instructions of the Admiralty to Franklin direct- 
 ed him to go to Baffin Bay, then through Lancaster Sound, on 
 
52 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 sill JOHN KHANKI.IN. 
 
 through Barrow Strait, which the Admiralty "thought would be 
 free ;" to Cape Walker, about 98° W. long. ; and then, turning to 
 the south and west, to use his best judgment in getting through 
 to Behring Strait. This course would have led him through 
 Melville, then Parry Sound. 
 
 Much was expected from this expedition. The previous ex- 
 perience of the commander, and of many of those who accom- 
 panied him, -was such as to inspire the greatest confidence in the 
 results; but when two years had elapsed, and no tidings were 
 received of even the whereabouts of the travelers, anxiety for 
 their safety began to be excited ; and as the winter of 1848 wore 
 
FIRST KKLIEF EXPEDITION. 53 
 
 away without intelligence, the painful silence became intolerable. 
 Inaction was no longer endurable, and with a bound of enthusi- 
 asm a noble expedition was planned to go for their relief, scarcely 
 any doubt at this time being entertained but that they could be 
 found, and the survivors rescued. 
 
 FIRST KELIEF EXPEDITION*. 
 
 Early in the spring of 1848, tiie Plover, Commander Thomas 
 Moore, and the Iltndd, Captain Kellet, started to go by the Behr- 
 ing Strait route to Chamisso Island, in Kotzebue Sound, with 
 orders, if Sir John had not arrived there, to go thence to the east- 
 ward as far as they could in their ships, and then to forward par- 
 ties in boats, in the hope of meeting him. This expedition was 
 accompanied by an amateur Arctic explorer, Mr. Robert Shed- 
 don, in his pleasure-yacht, the Nancy iJaioson. 
 
 Mr. Sheddon was an active, energetic man, who rendered very 
 acceptable aid to the expedition. Tiiey reached Chamisso Island 
 on the 14th of July, 1849, and with their boats got as far east as 
 Icy Point, and then sent a party forward to try and reach the 
 Mackenzie River. The vessels got north to lat. 72° 51', and to 
 long. 163° 48' W., and were then beset in the ice ; however, they 
 sent out land expeditions, discovered new lands and islands — 
 one large tract of land about lat. 71° 30', long. 175° W. On the 
 24th of August a portion of the boat expedition returned, report- 
 ing no signs of the lost ; but two whale-boats had still gone on 
 up the Mackenzie River, not intending to return to the ships, 
 but to work homeward by the way of Fort Hope and York Fac- 
 tory. 
 
 Those who came back had been as far as Dease Inlet. The 
 expedition remained until the summer of 1850, exploring in dif- 
 ferent directions, and the next season Captain Kellet, with th»' 
 Plover, wintered in Grantley Harbor, and the Herald returned 
 home. 
 
 While these parties had been operating from the Behring 
 Strait side of the continent and toward the north-east, Sir John 
 Richardson, the friend and late fellow-traveler of Franklin, had 
 gone with a land searching expedition down the Mackenzie River 
 toward the Polar Sea, which he reached August 4, 1847, leaving 
 depots of provisions at intervals all along the route, so that if any 
 of the lost party should stray that way they might at least find 
 
54 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 some food to sustain them. They traveled eight hundred miles 
 on this journey. In the summer of 1849 Dr. Sir John Eichard- 
 son returned to England. At or nearly the same time Dr. Eae 
 was exploring the shores of Wollaston Sound, and repeated the 
 exploration in 1850. 
 
 SIR JAMES HOSS. 
 
 The third expedition, under Commander Sir James Ross, left 
 England on the 12th of May, 1848, for the express purpose of 
 searching the south side of Lancaster Sound to Cape York, and 
 then, if nothing was found, to cross the mouth of Prince Regent 
 Inlet, which they did, wintering at Leopold Harbor. The North 
 Star, a transport ship, also followed in the summer of 1849, with 
 stores for Sir James Ross, and wintered at the head of Wosten- 
 holm Sound, in hit. 76° 33', the farthest north in that direction 
 any English vessel had then ventured, returning to England the 
 next September. 
 
 In the spring of 1849 Sir James Ross extended his search to 
 the shores of North Somerset, lat. 72° 38' N., long. 95° 40' W.; and 
 though he found not Sir John Franklin, he discovered the fact 
 that North Somerset and Boothia were united by a narrow isth- 
 mus ; he also explored part of the shore north of Barrow Strait, 
 and both sides of Prince Regent Inlet; but all the evidence col- 
 lected was negative as to those parts having been visited by 
 Franklin. lie, too, returned to England in November, 1849. 
 
 As the various searching parties reached home, all with the 
 same tale of ill success, the heart of the British public was chilled 
 with the growing certainty that serious disaster must have over- 
 taken the unfortunate Franklin. And in this the interest and 
 sympathy of all intelligent persons in the United States, and we 
 may add the civilized world, was deeply aroused. 
 
 SPECULATIONS ON FRANKLIN'S COURSE. 
 
 Speculation was rife conjecturing what possible course he could 
 have taken to thus elude the search of so many indefatigable 
 seekers; and, finally, the opinion worked uppermost, at least in 
 England, that he was probably ice-bound among some of the 
 many small islands west of Melville Island. 
 
A GLORIOUS SPECTACLE. §5 
 
 REWARD OFFERED BY THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT. 
 
 In March of 18i9 the British Government offered a reward of 
 £20,000 to any private exploring party, belonging to any nation, 
 which should render efficient aid to the lost wanderers. Lady 
 Franklin at the same time sent a large supply of coals and food, 
 which were placed at Cape Ilay, on the south side of Lancaster 
 Sound, with the merest chance that some survivor might wander 
 to that vicinity. 
 
 A GLORIOUS SPECTACLE. 
 
 Had some intelligent inhabitant from another sphere ap- 
 proached our globe in the direction of the North Pole in the 
 year 1850, a sublime spectacle would have met his vision, and 
 one which would have given the strange visitant an impression 
 that the human race was endowed with the keenest sympathies 
 and the noblest sentiments. No less than twelve vessels, besides 
 sledge and boat parties, led by such men as Koss, liae, Collinson. 
 M'Clure, Osborne, Austin, Ommany, Penny, Forsyth, and De 
 Haven, with many as noble companions, might have been seen 
 all wending their way over the land and ice and snow, and 
 through the waters of the Arctic regions, in search of a lost broth- 
 er! Surely, if there was ever an exemplification of the human- 
 izing effects of scientific pursuits, we have it in this evidence of 
 chivalrous self-sacrifice. Volunteers had sprung to the rescue on 
 the first intimation from the Government that relieving parties 
 would be organized, and in the year named Great Britain had 
 eight different expeditions abroad in search of Sir John Franklin 
 and his companions. 
 
 Dr. Rae was instructed to go farther north than he had yet 
 been ; to get, if he could, to Banks's Island, and also to Cape 
 Walker, on the north side of Victoria Land ; and at the same time 
 two small parties were to follow the main-land west to Point Bar- 
 row — one by the Mackenzie River, and the other by the Colville. 
 
 Then there was the Behring Strait expedition, consisting of 
 the Enterprise, under Captain Collinson, and the Investigator, with 
 M'Clure. These were expected to keep together, sailing to the 
 eastward as far as they could, with special instructions to make 
 friends of the natives, with the view of learning from the Esqui- 
 maux if they had any knowledge of the missing party. They 
 
56 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 were also ordered to place caches in all suitable places, and par- 
 ticularly warned against allowing their vessels to get beset in 
 the ice. 
 
 The Plover, it will be remembered, was still on the Pacific side, 
 and all three were well provisioned, and officered by capable and 
 determined men. 
 
 On the other side of the continent, bound for Baffin Bay, was 
 Captain Austin with the Resolute, Captain Ommany in the Assist- 
 ance, Lieutenants Cator and Osborne with the Pioneer and Intrepid 
 — the two latter being screw-propellers. These all sailed in the 
 spring of 1850. 
 
 All thus far named were Government vessels. Then there was 
 raised and fitted out by public subscription the schooner Felix, 
 with a small tender, the J/ary, under Captain (Sir John) Koss. 
 He started in April, and was provisioned for eighteen months, 
 expecting to take, as he did, an entirely different course from the 
 rest — going b, Cape Ilotham, on the west-side entrance of Wel- 
 lington Channe.. and intending to search all the headlands west 
 to Banks's Land; 'hen, unless he was happily successful, he was to 
 send back the tender, and go on himself in the Felix, and to win- 
 ter as far west as he could get. 
 
 LADY FRANKLIN. 
 
 Lady Franklin also fitted out a vessel, bearing her own name 
 and title, officered by Captain Penny, having the brig SojAia in 
 company. Captain Penny had no positive orders as to his course, 
 which was left entirely to his own judgment. Lady Franklin 
 also bore a considerable portion of the expense of fitting out the 
 Prince Albert, commanded by Captain Charles Forsyth, who was 
 accompanied by Mr. W. P. Snow, of New York, who went to 
 England for that purpose — he as well as the commander being 
 a volunteer in the humane work. They went to the shores of 
 Prince Eegent Inlet and the Gulf of Boothia. They also sent 
 out overland parties to explore the west; side of Boothia to Dease 
 and Simpson straits. This expedition sailed in June of 1850. 
 
 THE FIRST AMERICAN EXPEDITION. 
 
 The first American expedition recognized by the Government 
 was chiefly indebted, both for vessels and equipment, to the lib- 
 erality of Mr. Henry Grinnell, a merchant of New York — the 
 
FIKST EVIDENCES OF THE MISSING rAKTY. 
 
 57 
 
 United States Naval Department furnishing an able commander 
 for the two vessels, Advance and Rescue, in the person of Lieu- 
 tenant De Haven. This expedition sailed from New York on 
 the 2-ith of May, 185U. De Haven's plan was to reach, if pos- 
 sible, Banks's Land and Melville Island, and then to use his dis- 
 cretion, as events indicated, as to going west or north. 
 
 DISCOVERIES AT CAPE RILEY. 
 
 Of all these parties, Captain Ommany was the first to find any 
 evidences of the missing party. At Cape Riley, August 23, 1850, 
 he came upon the site of what had evidently been an encamp- 
 ment, namely, the stone flooring of a tent, a quantity of birds' 
 
 AUVAJiOB AND EE80LB. 
 
 bones, and the indubitable proofs of civilization in a number of 
 empty meat-canisters, with other small relics; and this occurred 
 in the fifth year since Sir John bad been absent and unreported. 
 
 DISCOVERIES AT BEECHEY ISLAND. 
 
 At Beechey Island, three miles west of Cape Riley, at the en- 
 trance of Wellington Channel, Lieutenant Osborne found the first 
 winter-quarters of the missing expedition. First, there was an 
 embankment for a house, with carpenters' and armorers' work- 
 shops, the inevitable empty meat-cans, and, most conclusive of 
 all, the graves of three men belonging to the Erebus and Terror 
 
58 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 These bore the date of the winter of 1845-46. Farther inland on 
 the island were found some articles of wearing apparel. 
 
 Lieutenant De Haven arrived at Beechey Island on August 25, 
 just two days after Lieutenant Osborne, and continued the search, 
 as did also Captain Penny and the officers of the Prime Albert. 
 
 TEN EXPLORING VESSELS MEET. 
 
 On the 27th of August, 1850, there met at Beechey Island, as 
 if drawn by an irresistible instinct, ten of the searching vessels. 
 Besides those already named, were Sir John Ross, Austin, and 
 
 AUOTIO DISOOVEBY BIIII'B. 
 
 M'Clintock. But though the debris of Sir John Franklin's party 
 was unmistakable, the searchers looked in vain for any record or 
 document of any description. Nothing was found to indicate 
 which way they had taken when breaking out of their winter- 
 quarters. It was consequently inferred that their departure had 
 been sudden — hastened, perhaps, by some unexpected movement 
 of the ice — though the greater probability is that there was noth- 
 ing special to record, or time would certainly have been found to 
 deposit some writing. 
 
DR. KANE'S DISCOVERY. 59 
 
 But it is not impossible that some writing, really existing and 
 concealed by the snows and dtbris of five winters, remained un- 
 discovered; for we know that on another occasion, when a party 
 landed from the Prince Albert^ an experienced officer walked over 
 a cairn, much more recently constructed, and mistook it for a part 
 of the cliff. 
 
 Several vessels lay by Beechey Island during the winter, so as 
 to be ready in the spring t)f 1851 to renew the search, organizing 
 land expeditions in the mean while to explore the shores of Wel- 
 lington Channel, the coasts of Banks's Land, and the waters lead- 
 ins: from Barrow Strait to Melville Island. Different routes were 
 selected, and six hundred and seventy-five miles of new coast- 
 land was discovered and examined. But Franklin was not found. 
 
 Of all the explorers entering through Baffin Bay, M'Clintock 
 got the farthest west of these expeditions — namely, to 114° 20' 
 W. long., and to 74° 83' N. lat. In this region the animals were 
 so tame that it was quite evident they were unused to the pres- 
 ence of naan, and hence the inference that the natives did not 
 hunt in that direction. 
 
 The search in Wellington Channel having developed no signs 
 of Franklin's presence, it was now thought by the most experi- 
 enced that he had probably moved toward the south-west (rather 
 late to come to the conclusion that he had gone where he was or- 
 dered). Captain Penny had gone to the northern limits of Wel- 
 lington Channel until he found another stretch of water, which 
 he called Victoria Channel. 
 
 : ■: ■ DR. KANE's DISCOVERY. .-V' ^ 
 
 Dr. Kane, who at this time accompanied Lieutenant De Haven 
 as surgeon, discovered what he thought to be traces of heavily- 
 laden sledges, and judged from their direction that P'ranklin had 
 certainly gone north from Cape Riley with his ships on the break- 
 ing up of the ice in 1846, and that through Wellington Channel 
 he had reached the Polar basin, and in this direction the Advance 
 sailed as far as it was possible to proceed. Dr. Kane's daring on 
 this occasion earned for him among the British officers the sobri- 
 quet of the " mad Yankee." But no more relics were discovered 
 at this time, though the record afterward found at Point Victory 
 proved that Kane was right, and that Franklin did attempt that 
 course, but was turned back. 
 
60 AUCriC EXPElilKNCES. 
 
 • 
 
 The Advance returned to New York September 30, and the 
 Rescue, under Lieutenant Griffitli, October 2, 1851. 
 
 When the discoveries on Beechey Ishmd were first made, the 
 Prince Albert had been sent home to carry the news to England, 
 but was almost immediately dispatched back again to search on 
 the shores of Prince Regent Inlet and the neighborhood of Fury 
 Beach and Cape Walker. 
 
 In the mean while Rae's search, in 1851, had been to the south 
 of the others, and as his search had been very thorough, upon his 
 report, it was concluded that Franklin had at least not been south 
 of the American main-land coast or its connecting peninsulas. 
 
 RUMORS OF MURDER AND CANNIBALISM. 
 
 Sir James C. Ross reported a rumor to be current among the 
 Esquimaux to the effect that Franklin's party had been murdered 
 by the natives in Wostenholm Sound, and that cannibalism had 
 been resorted to; and to verif)'^ or dispose of this story. Lady 
 Franklin dispatched the IsaU-l, Commander Inglefield, to the 
 section indicated. He found nothing to confirm the report, and 
 subsequently went up Smith Sound to lat. 78° 28' 21"— one hun- 
 dred and forty miles farther than any one had yet been in that 
 direction. 
 
 He brought back the encouraging statement that in the highest 
 latitude he had attained he had found the climate more genial, 
 and that the winds from the north were less cold than those from 
 the south. He established the hitherto only suspecied fact of the 
 existence of Kennedy Channel. 
 
 Dr. Kane's theory in regard to the Wellington Channel route 
 appears to have made a deep impression in England, for we next 
 learn that in April, 1852, Sir Edward Belcher, with five vessels, 
 namely, the Assistance, Resolute, North Star, Pioneer, and Intrepid, 
 with several tenders, were sent out ; the Assistance and Pioneer 
 were especially detailed to proceed to the extreme limits of Wel- 
 lington Channel. 
 
 In the spring of 1853 Messrs. Henry Grinnell, of New York, 
 and George Peabody, of London (the latter furnished $10,000), 
 with other private parties, fitted out another expedition under the 
 command of Dr. E. K. Kane — he who had been "surgeon, natu- 
 ralist, and historian " of the first Grinnell expedition under De 
 Haven. 
 
BKLLOT.-THE HRITISH NAV^VL FlOARD. 0| 
 
 ' Liidy Franklin, in that year, also sent the liaitksnake and Isa- 
 bel to Behring Strait to assist Captains CoUinson and M'Clure; 
 and Dr. Rae again went to Boothia ; and, lastly, the Ladij Frank- 
 lin at)d Phduix, under Cajjlain Inglefield, was sent to Barrow 
 Strait to aid Sir Edward Belcher. 
 
 THE NORTH-WEST PROBLEM SOLVED. 
 
 This year witnessed the actual accomplishment of the passage 
 from the west by M'C'ure, and from the east by Captain Kellet, 
 one of whose officers, Lieutenant Pim, met M'Clure on the ice 
 between the latter's ship and Dealy Island. Twenty days later 
 Captain Collinson came up in bis ship; found the north-west pas- 
 sage solved, and turned to the south-east, completing the passage 
 in another direction. M'Clure, having wintered in 1850 near 
 where the connecting waters could be traced, had, by observation, 
 established the passage as early as October 31 of that year. 
 
 After reaching England, Captain M'Clure was knighted by the 
 Queen; but Collinson. who equally deserved the credit, received 
 but an honorary medal. 
 
 BELLOT. • ; 
 
 Out of the mass of records of suffering, danger, and death 
 which had attended many of the expeditions, the imagination 
 and sentiment of nearly all the Arctic historians have singled 
 out for special sympathy and commiseration the fate of a gallant 
 young Frenchman, named Rene Bellot, who accompanied Cap- 
 tain Kennedy, and afterward Captain Inglefield, as a volunteer 
 explorer; and who, during a violent gale of wind, was blown 
 from a piece of floating ice and drowned, August 18, 1853. On 
 September 4, a boat, containing his chart, journal, and other per- 
 sonal effects, was floated down into the hands of Sir Edward 
 Be' her, by whose party they were picked up and preserved. 
 
 OBTUSENESS OF THE BRITISH NAVAL BOARD. 
 
 Of all the inexplicable occurrences with which the history of 
 Arctic expeditions has at times astonished the world, none ap- 
 pears to us so utterly unintelligible as the course of the English 
 Admiralty in its instructions to the rescue parties sent out dur- 
 ing the first six or seven years in search of Sir John Franklin. 
 The amazing fact confronts us that not one of these exploring 
 
(J2 AKCTIC KXl'KUIENCEH. 
 
 parties, ostensibly sent ibr his relief, were directed to that section 
 uf country where he wa^.- most likely to have been found. 
 
 The Admiralty instructions by which Franklin was to be 
 guided, directed him to go {vide Sec. 5 of the "Instructions") 
 " through Lancaster Sound and Barrow Strait, ivithoui stojtpiny 
 to examine any openinfja to the northward or southward of the 
 latter; but to push on to the westward without loss of time on 
 the parallel of about 7-A|'^ to Cape Walker. From that point we 
 desire that every cllbit be used to penetrate to the southtvard and 
 westward in a course as direct to Behring Strait as the position 
 and extent of the ice, or of land at present unknown, may admit." 
 
 Yet, in the face of these instructions, not one of all the search- 
 ing expeditions, whether fitted out by the Government, the Hud- 
 son Bay Company, or by private generosity, either from England 
 or America, were directed to Melville Sound the only spot where 
 these instructions could, if followed, have carried him. Almost 
 every other accessible part of the Arctic regions was faithfully 
 scoured from Baffin Bay to Beliring Strait, but not the place to 
 which he was sent ! : .» i 
 
 PROVIDENTIAL MENTAL COERCION. 
 
 The extraordinary obtusencss on this point existing among so 
 many men of intelligence, and many also of ])ractical Arctic ex- 
 perience, accustomed to obey Admiralty orders, really looks like 
 one of those Providential coercions by which the minds of men 
 are controlled for purposes not perceived until the time has long 
 passed, with all its exciting discussions and prejudiced interests. 
 
 We may now possibly perceive a utility in this abnormal con- 
 dition of the reasoning powers which led the British Admiralty 
 continually away from their own instructions to Sir John Frank- 
 lin. '-■■ •- ' '*•■■. 
 
 Let us suppose that tlie first rescue party had been sent to 
 where he was — south of Melville Sound, and the whole mystery 
 had been at once cleared up. It is quite possible that, there and 
 then, Arctic explorations would have received their quietus for 
 many years, and the splendid series of discoveries which have 
 .since followed by Ross, Parry, Rae, Back, Penny, De Ilaven, 
 Kane, Hayes, Hall, and others — nearly all looking in the wrong 
 direction — would have remained in silent obscurity, their thrill- 
 ing stories all untold. On the theory of an ulterior Providential 
 
ANOTUKIi KESCUK SHIP. 6;^ 
 
 intent can we alono expUiin the singular conduct of the Naval 
 Board. 
 
 It was not until five years after the question of Franklin's 
 safety was mooted that Dr. Hue penetrated to Cai)e Walker; and 
 beyond that there seemed a fatality, brooding over all the ex- 
 plorers which tabooed the only true and proper course to the 
 south and west of Melville Sound. Every plucc to which he 
 was not sent was thoroughly ransacked; whither he was sent 
 not a single ship or man wa.s ordered by the British Admiralty. 
 
 The region referred to lies between 103° and 115° W. long., 
 and between the 73° and 74° parallels of N. Int. 
 
 THE FOULOUN HOPE. 
 
 After there was none, or the faintest possible liope, that any 
 survivors of the party remained, Lady Franklin succeeded in get- 
 ting the little steam-yacht Fox fitted up for a final conclusive 
 search. This vessel sailed from Aberdeen on the 1st of July, 
 1857, under the command of Lady Franklin's devoted friend, the 
 experienced Arctic explorer, Captain M'Clintock. He met with 
 a most unparalleled and provoking delay during his first sea- 
 son, by getting entangkj in the pack-ice off Melville Bay, in 
 which he was inclosed, and finally drifted to the vicinity of 
 Disco, and southward. 
 
 Reaching free water on the 2'ith of April, 1848, after a drift of 
 two hundred and forty-two days, and, as he estimated, eleven 
 hundred and ninety-four geographical miles — the longest and 
 most extraordinary on record until we come to that of Captain 
 Tyson's, whicLi was fifteen hundred miles, and under the greatest 
 contrast of circumstances. The drift of De Ilaven had approach- 
 ed it in length, and that of the abandoned ship Resolute exceeded 
 it in romantic interest; while the ice-floe drift of the captain and 
 crew of the German exploring ship Ilansa alone affords any sort 
 of parallel to the ice-borne waifs of the Polaris. 
 
 Refitting at Disco, Captain M'Clintock started to recover his 
 lost ground as early as the ice would permit. lie had taken 
 from Goodhavn the tombstone commemorative of Sir John 
 Franklin, which was prepared in New York under Lady Frank- 
 lin's orders, and which had been originally put in charge of Lieu- 
 tenant Hartstene when he went to the relief of Dr. Kane, and 
 which had been left by him in Greenland. 
 
64 AUCTIC KXI'KIUENCES. 
 
 Proceeding direct to Becclicy Island, Captain M'Clintock erect- 
 ed the monument in a suitable and conspicuous spot, and tlien 
 proceeded, vi<t Prince Kegent Inlet, Bellot Strait, and Franklin 
 Channel, to King William Land, whicli he searched as thorough 
 ly as time permitted. At Erebus Bay be found a boat contain- 
 ing two skeletons, which were identified as belonging to the miss- 
 ing explorers; and while he was thus encouraged to liope that 
 the solution of" the mystery was close at hand, his lieutenant, Mr. 
 Ilobson, had actually found at Victory Point the record which 
 told of the death of the gallant Sir John, for whom two nations 
 had been in search for ten successive years. The date of Sir John 
 Franklin's death was given as occurring on the 11th of July, 
 1847 — two years from the time of his leaving England, But 
 what became of the one hundred and five men living at that time 
 remained, to a great extent, as mysterious as ever, until Captain 
 C, F. Hall's explorations of 1864-69. The Esquimaux story of 
 the death of the greater part by exhaustion and starvation, and 
 probable cannibalism, as reported by Ross and Dr, Rae, might be 
 true, but up to the time of Hall's researches they bad not been 
 positively proved, or that all who composed the expedition of the 
 Erebus and Terror were dead; and of the ships no certain knowl- 
 edge was obtained till Hall's visit. After collecting ample sup- 
 j)lies of relics belonging to the lost party. Captain M'Clintock re- 
 turned to Aberdeen, and thenceforward the search w^as consid- 
 ered ended by the English Government and people. 
 
 Not so in this country. There was one man, at least, in the 
 United States, away to the westward, in the noble State of Ohio, 
 who was pondering by day and dreaming by night of the possi- 
 ble fate of some poor soul yet surviving among the Esquimaux; 
 that man was Charles Francis Hall. What he did tow%ard clear- 
 ing up the mystery will be found narrated in the chapter entitled 
 "Biographical Sketch of Captain Hall." 
 
 Daring 1853-55 Dr. Kane was pursuing the search in a north- 
 erly direction, via Smith Sound, making extensive discoveries on 
 the west coast of'Greenland — once attempting to reach Beechey 
 Island on a sledge-journey, but driven back by an impenetrable 
 barrier of hummocky ice. But his own account is too recent 
 and familiar to need extended notice here, except to say, in ex- 
 planation of his taking what appears, at the first thought, so un- 
 likely a route as Smith Sound to find Franklin, who was known 
 
■-fSl^S* 
 
PROFIT AND LOSS. 67 
 
 to have gone to the west ; that having discovered, as our readers 
 will remember, the sledge -tracks at the mouth of Wellington 
 Channel, he believed the missing party had sailed north through 
 those waters until they had reached the Polar Sea, and that they 
 were there detained ; and that, consequently, the most direct way 
 of reaching and aiding them was to get to the same place by the 
 most feasible route, which he believed was Smith Sound cind con- 
 necting waters. 
 
 Dr. Hayes's journeys and subsequent publications have famil- 
 iarized the reading public, not only with the history and resources 
 of Greenland, but also with the contour of the western shore of 
 Smith Sound and Grinnell Land, and beyond up to Cape Union, 
 the most northern point observed up to that period, or until the 
 observations made from the Polaris. 
 
 While Hall was searching Frobisher Bay, Hayes was heading 
 due north along the shore of Grinnell Land with a perseverance 
 and courage which, since the death of Captain Hall, leaves him 
 with scarcely a rival in Arctic research. 
 
 PROFIT AND LOSS, 
 
 Among those general readers who have not made a specialty 
 of Arctic literature, but are familiar only with the widely-bruited 
 failures of certain unfortunate explorers, it naturally enough ap- 
 pears that the expense, suffering, and loss of life far outweigh any 
 possible benefits to be derived from continued explorations. But 
 the degree of publicity given to Arctic expeditions has usually 
 followed the reverse rule which prevails in other more or less 
 speculative enterprises. In most of these, the successes, like the 
 drawing of a grand prize in a lottery, is heralded throughout the 
 land, while the failures are quietly kept in obscurity. The very 
 opposite course has habitually occurred in the matter of Arctic 
 explorations — the disasters, the losses, the deaths have all been 
 made the most of, published with every setting and surrounding, 
 to make them appear the main results of an expedition, when, in 
 fact, they have been but the accidents, the unavoidable incidents, 
 of traveling over new and unknown lands or seas. All the dis- 
 asters which have befallen Polar voyagers are not to be attribu- 
 ted to the climate. The latitude has been innocent of many mis- 
 fortunes attributed to it. Very often has an expedition been 
 marred by bringing together, without sufficient discrimination. 
 
68 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 »B. KAME. 
 
 ill-assorted companions, whose incongruity has only become the 
 more apparent the longer they were kept together; and still 
 more frequently has their efficiency been greatly impeded by the 
 continued use of disease-inducing food, and other reasons which 
 may now be regarded as belonging to the past, and in no way 
 necessary of repetition in organizing future expeditions. 
 
 WHAT IS THE USE OF ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS? 
 
 Notwithstanding the immense additions which Arctic explo- 
 rations have made to our scientific knowledge, there are still 
 people left who persist in asking, "What is the use of Arctic 
 explorations?" and though we mighi attempt to answer them, 
 we conceive that, to minds capable of propounding the above 
 proposition, whatever the answer, it would prove unsatisfactory 
 to these querists; for that sort of intellectual apathy which can 
 regard any kind of knowledge as useless makes hopeless the dis- 
 cussion of its value. 
 
 If all study, inquiry, and experiment were suspended, except 
 such as promised immediate and profitable return, a large pro- 
 portion of the brain-force eventually prolific of the most inter- 
 
THE USE OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION. (fy 
 
 estiag and valuable results would be incontinently obliterated. 
 Had the scientists of past ages been obliged to show a presert 
 paying application of the crucial tests with which they endea\- 
 ored to force open the sacred arcana of nature, the nineteenth 
 century would scarcel}' have reached to the mental condition of 
 the Dark Ages ; or, rather, the nations would never have emerged 
 ^rom the sensuous bonds of barbarism — a showy and luxurious 
 barbarism, perhaps, but certainly resting in a condition devoid 
 of any high culture or worthy mental effort. 
 
 But to those, on the other hand, imbued with a genuine love 
 of knowledge for its own sake, no expense, toil, or suffering 
 seems too great to purchase even the slightest addition to our 
 sum total of facts; still more valued is iae elucidation of those 
 suggestive ideas which lead to the discovery of governing laws 
 and fixed principles in art, science, morals, or philosophy; and 
 thus the answer to the query, " What is the use of Arctic explora- 
 tions?" will be as different as the life aim of those who discuss it. 
 
 REMOTE ADVANTAGES. 
 
 Some brains appear organically incapable of comprehending or 
 grasping remote and contingent uses ; they must see the finished 
 product turned out by the complicated machinery, or they can 
 perceive no virtue in belts and wheels, cams and eccentrics; and 
 to such as these the fact that a north-west passage through the 
 Polar regions is obviously impracticable for commercial purposes, 
 settles the question that all geographical and scientific research 
 in that direction is a mere senseless battering of human endur- 
 ance against the elemental forces of cold and ice and sunless at- 
 mospheres. 
 
 ANCIENT GRADGRINDS. ... 
 
 This sort of people, had they existed, as no doubt many did, in 
 the B.C. eras of the world, would have stood mocking at the sim- 
 ple gnomon, and the apparently demented individuals who, hour 
 by hour, day by day, month by month, and year by year, con- 
 tinued, with enthusiastic and tireless vigil, to watch, measure, 
 mark, and record the exact length of the shadow which it cast. 
 " What is the use of knowing the length of that shadow ?— what 
 a fool to spend life in that way!" cried the old Gradgrinds of 
 China, Arabia, and Egypt. Yet out of this seeming frivolous 
 
70 
 
 ARCTIC EXrERlENCES. 
 
 DB. HAYES. 
 
 proceeding grew up the noble science of astro, \ my, without a 
 knowledge of which our mariners would still Ll "reeping around 
 the shores of continents, not daring to ■''■enture out of sight of 
 land. 
 
 PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS. 
 
 Early in the present century various stations in the Old and 
 New Worlds, ranging from the equator to Nova Zembla, were 
 visited by a veteran traveler, who was looked upon by the igno- 
 rant as " crazy." He always carried with him various clocks and 
 detached pendulums ; and when he landed at any point, his first 
 object was to secure a solid foundation whereon to place his 
 clocks ; his next, to find or construct, partly underground, a 
 small building, within which to suspend his pendulums, and this 
 inclosure he always insisted must be so contrived as to secure a 
 perfectly equal temperature during the whole period of his ob- 
 servations. :<- :, - ,; > . 
 
THE DEVOTE^'.S OF SCIENCE. 71 
 
 He came and went in a vessel of the British navy, and much 
 the seamen wondered ; and the natives of various half-civilized 
 countries looked on in astonishment, asking, " What could be the 
 use of that old man burying his clocks and pendulums for weeks 
 at a time, when no one but himself and assistant could see them?" 
 But the scientific world has long known that the "crazy man "^ 
 was the renowned Sabine, and that through his pendulum exper- 
 iments was obtained the exact difference of clock rates at the 
 equator and successive parallels of latitude approaching the poles, 
 and thus was secured the necessary data for calculating the ob- 
 lateness of the earth, and sequently accounting for the precession 
 of the equinoxes. ; , 
 
 SCIENTIFIC DEVOTEES. 
 
 The ultimate uses of scientific research, under which head may 
 now be classed all Polar explorations, is scarcely ever realized in 
 its fullness even by those most devoted to the pursuit; but it may 
 safely be asserted that no kind or degree of positive knowledge 
 has ever been obtained without yielding valuable fruit — yes, a 
 hundred-fold as compared with the toil of obtaining it; not often, 
 however, does the reward fall to the immediate discoverer, but 
 more frequently on the world at large is the eventual benefit con- 
 ferred. Thus it has been in mathematics, and notably in chem- 
 istry, in geographical research, and in every branch of science. 
 The way is strewn with willing martyrs, whose enthusiasm has 
 been inexplicable to those of cooler temperaments, greater cau- 
 tion, and lacking that insight which enables the scientific devotee 
 to count a perilous or toilsome life-long effort as nothing, if the 
 truth be learned, the experiment succeed, the end be gained, the 
 victory won, and at last the doubters and mockers be over- 
 whelmed with the practical benefits evolved, making the uses of 
 science intelligible even to them. ' i . 
 
 ARCTIC FAILURES AND SUCCESSES. 
 
 In regard to Arctic expeditions, though all have so far failed 
 of reaching the geographical pole, yet none have been wholly 
 failures; from each something has been learned, by which suc- 
 ceeding ones have profited. And though to the inconsiderate, 
 who draw their deductions rather from the great hopes of Cap- 
 tain Hall than from the actual results, the Poland expedition has 
 
72 ARCTIC exi'euip:nces. 
 
 been called a great failure, we think it will be found by all who 
 peruse these pages that, instead of being a failure in any scien- 
 tific sense, it has been a great success, not only in the fact of Cap- 
 tain llall having reached with his ship a higher latitude than any 
 ever yet attained in that direction, but also in the added stock 
 of scientific observations made on board, especially those which 
 show entirely unsuspected conditions of magnetic polarity, as 
 evidenced by the dip, and the amount of variation in the needle 
 in the high latitudes reached by the Polaris, with many other 
 facts of value secured by the Scientific Corps. 
 
 MODERN FACILITIES. 
 
 The probability is now becoming every year more apparent 
 that, with the increased resources of modern art, difficulties to 
 which the earlier navigators succumbed will be effectually sur- 
 mounted. The art of preserving, by hermetically sealing, so 
 many varieties of food, has already reduced the dangers of sick- 
 ness in uninhabited regions to its minimum, while each year adds 
 something to the mechanical contrivances which makes an ex- 
 tended residence in the Polar regions less and less hazardous; 
 and there appears no reason why success in the now limited ob- 
 ject of search should not, within a comparatively brief period, 
 perch upon the banner of some succeeding Arctic explorer. 
 
 The famous navigator Captain Cook thought that no one would 
 ever get nearer to the South Pole than he had done; yet Sir 
 James Ross and our own Wilkes have made his discoveries in- 
 significant by their greater daring. Pigafetta, the companion of 
 Magellan, when he had circumnavigated the globe, thought he 
 laad performed a feat which " would never be repeated by mortal 
 man!" while the larger -brained and larger -hearted Columbus, 
 when be first touched the shore of San Domingo, exclaimed, " El 
 inundo es poco!" — the loorld is Utile J — as if in his soul he longed 
 for greater dangers to overcome, and wider seas over which to 
 sail. 
 
 This was the true spirit of progress, he the true enthusiast; 
 while the men who are forever asking "What is the use?" are 
 the drag-anchors of society, who, if listened to, which, happily, 
 they are not, would keep the world forever in its swaddling- 
 clothes. - ' . • ' , 
 
MODERN CHIVALRY. 73 
 
 UNEXPLORED AREA. 
 
 Of the land surface of the earth, 11,600,000 square miles, or 
 one-seventeenth of the whole, is grouped within the Polar regions 
 — a tract, as the French savant, lieolus, points out, sixty times the 
 area of France. Now, should it not convince the most obtuse 
 that, while scientists remain practically unacquainted with so 
 much of the land surface of the planet, that there must necessa- 
 rily remain many problems, not geographical only, but meteoro- 
 logical, tidal, and especially electrical and magnetic, unanswered? 
 ilow give a true solution of any complex scientific subject, while 
 so many of its component parts remain unknown quantities? 
 
 That the north Polar region, with its grand focal problem, will 
 yet be conquered by the courage of our navigators and the self- 
 sacrificing spirit of science, during this or a near succeeding gen- 
 eration, we have not the shadow of a doubt. 
 
 MODERN CHIVALRY. ; . , . 
 
 There is one other part of this subject which we can not over- 
 look, namely, the development and encouragement of a noble, chiv- 
 alrous sentiment, which in these latter days has but few opportu- 
 nities for exercise. The giants and the dragons are all dead, and 
 the chivalry of the Mediaeval Ages is no longer needed by the 
 gentle dames, who are learning so rapidly how to fight for them- 
 selves. Livingstone and Baker are bound to exhaust Africa, and 
 \vhat is there left? The Arctic regions alone remain a terra in- 
 cognita, so attractive to the knights-errant of science. Where, 
 then, shall the Mr. Greathearts disport themselves, if not in the 
 land of the Aurora? Away with your calculating financiers, who 
 count the cost of every thing to the uttermost farthing; and give 
 place to the royal enthusiasts who are ready once more to try 
 again— ready to attack and demolish the only geographical mvs- 
 tery left to this book-whelmed generation. 
 
 Do you doubt the courage? do you doubt the chivalry? 
 Hunt up your books of travel, bring out your biographies, and 
 see if you can find a parallel to the courage, skill, endurance, tact, 
 self-control, and Christian trust in an ever-guiding Providence 
 which enabled the chief officer on the ice-floe, Captain Tyson, to 
 maintain, without any positive exhibition of authority, a tranquil, 
 firm, and careful oversight of the eighteen persons providentially 
 
74 ARCmC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 thrown upon his direction. "He cjuld liave made hi.s own way 
 back to the ship, but he would not desert the women and chil- 
 dren," said one. "There was not much commanding done on 
 the ice; but if we went contrary to what he advised, it always 
 turned out v/rong," said another; and this fur six months, on a 
 voyage of over fifteen hundred miles on broken and shifting ice! 
 "For eighty days the sun did not show itself above the horizon: 
 and when it did, only for a few hours at a time:" denying him- 
 self needful food, tiiat others might not lack; encouraging and 
 supporting the desponding, and with his great j)hysical strength, 
 acquired by long acclimatization, holding the weaker to their 
 places while the winds and waves contended for their hunger- 
 smitten bodies. 
 
 A PURE AMBITION. 
 
 No; if it is recorded within the archives of fate that Arctic 
 explorations are to be forever balUed of their great purpose, let 
 us take no hand in crushing out the spirit which inspires them. 
 It is a pure and healthful ambition to add to the world's knowl- 
 edge; to carry the flag of our country where human foot has 
 never trod; to unravel the mystery of ages, and to close up the 
 hopes and eflbrts of the centuries with a successful invasion of 
 those hidden realms which kings and princes have desired to see 
 unveiled. How much nobler and purer is such an ambition than 
 is the unceasing strife for gain, or the petty jealousies of ofBce- 
 hunting, or the belittling pursuit of ease and pleasure, as the end 
 and aim of life? Instead of discouraging and repressing the spirit, 
 of adventure and research, it becomes oyery Government, and 
 brings honor to every people, who systematically cherish and 
 foster it; and that life is not lost which is sacrificed in such pur- 
 suits. 
 
 E8<)riMAC WOMAN 8 KNIFK. 
 
KEFLECTIONS ON THE ICE-FLOE. 75 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 CAPTAIN Tyson's early arctic experience. 
 
 (^aptain Tyson's Reflections on the lee-floe. — Nativity. — Early Life. — Ships a.« a 
 Wlialer. — Death of Shipmate. — Arrives at the Greenland Seas. — The "Middle 
 Ice." — The "North Water."— First Sight of Esquimaux. — The Danes in Green- 
 land. — The Devil's Thumb. — Meets De Haven. — Whales and their Haunts. — A 
 prolonged Struggle with a Whale. — Sailors' Tricks. — Cheating the Mollimokes. — 
 Young Tyson volunteers to winter ashore at Cumberland Gulf. — The Pet Seal. — 
 Life Ashore. — Relieved by the True Love. — Is taken to England. — Returns to 
 the Arctic Regions. — Sights tlie abandoned British Ship Resolute. — Witli three 
 Companions boards the Resolute. — Finds Wine in the Glasses. — All have a good 
 Time. — Don the Officers' Uniforms. — Returns to his Ship. — Ships as Second Mate 
 in the George Henry. — As First Officer. — As (^aptain of the Brig (ieorgianu. — 
 Meets Captain Charles F. Hall. -^Witnesses and tries to prevent the Loss of the 
 Rescue. — Sails as Master of the Orray Tnft, of New Bedford. — Of the Antelope. 
 — Sails to Repulse Bay, and takes the first Whale cap urcd in those Waters. — 
 Again meets Captain Hall, and supj)lies him with a Boat. — Peculiar Electrical 
 Phenomena at Repulse Bay. — Sails in tlie Top-sail Schooner Era. — Meets Cap- 
 tain Hall, then "in training ' with the Es(iuimaux. — Log-book Records. — Winters 
 asiiore at Niountelik Harbor. — Removes from New London to Brooklyn. — Sails in 
 the Polaris as Assistant Navigator. 
 
 '• While floating down on the ice-floe, in the midst of dirt and 
 darkness, hungry and cold, I often thought of friends at home, 
 and wondered how many of them would have been able to en- 
 <lure the exposure to which our whole party was subjected; and, 
 most of all, I wondered at myself that I could have learned, in a 
 few short month.s, to have eaten such things, and submitted to 
 .such practices, as but few civilized persons have ever been called 
 to endure. In regard to the physical strength and vital resist- 
 ance of my system, that is no doubt to be accounted for, in great 
 measure, by my previous life. 
 
 " I had been for twenty-three years sailing the Northern and 
 Arctic seas ; I had not seen a Fourth of July within the United 
 States for twenty years, and but a few days of summer weather 
 in this latitude for the same period; a part of the month of June, 
 1871, just before the Polaris sailed, was all the summer I had ex- 
 perienced in the temperate zone for ■. d ^^-ades. I bad plenty 
 
(6 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 4<''*rff*i« 
 
 M tiw itt. b«t» ■■fcifiiimiiljf, mam ef iJm usm. 
 
 ft griiwliiig. iBKntif kwpK. mm muAA (iuitlc «€ asulttflf 
 
 «• ImI irfl IwMi dM^ m MM^ ««r Imnpi' toff ft iw in i M w i M 
 
 #» iMMwIi 'MiM l» fiigMlMi: ftMl i» ai MMirwii f jfatmi 
 
 II liMit jiimlii «f Mfr fmwia i ii ymfi i p* ; «•# ■• limf tM 
 
 m hm» «iC ft mmmm m»k Hh* iW'iMMl, mui vtU Iwjfi 
 
 m^ ■HMw«'iitf iir *m4jmmmm, ti mug ftft Mil gp tft t# ft 
 
SHIPS AS A WHALER. 77 
 
 '• I was born in the State of New Jersey ; but in early infancy 
 my parents removed to New York city, where I received my 
 early education, and when of suitable age I commenced work in 
 an iron-foundry — my parents, like nearly all others, desiring to 
 keep their sons upon the land. But my heart was always on 
 the seas, and particularly I longed to see something of the Arctic 
 world; the naiiies of Hoss and Parry and Franklin had seized 
 u})on my imagination, and I longed to follow in their track. To 
 witness the novel scenes, and to share in the dangers of Arctic 
 travel, was at that period the height of my ambition ; and while 
 watching the fiery liquid ore that was presetitly to apj)ear in the 
 shape of grates and fenders, my fancy wa.s off among the ice- 
 bergs; and, despite the dicta of Shakspeare. 1 sometimes almost 
 managed to cool my heated brow^ with 
 
 'Thinking of the frwty CaucaMUH,' 
 
 I was di.sgu.<?te<i with shop labor; and aH no ofifw)rtunitv r>ff«Te<l 
 for joining any A' jc exploring party. I concluded trj» do the 
 next bei^t thing, anu rfhip in a whalrr, which at leant would bear 
 me a lew degrees toward the coveUni regionit f)f perpetual lee, 
 
 ** In execution of thu* inti-niion. I i»hif»fM*d on l«rtird a Sew 
 London whaler, the Iwirk J/ C'^'"". <"a}'t.i!ti William (^nayle. in 
 l^5<», when [ wju« about twenty ow ym)* ..] a^,-, 'I'jie SlCUUmi 
 wsM Uiunrl U) <> > u .uid and a<ijae<.'tit msam. ft wan CftpUun 
 <4(iayle'a intention. h«>W4»irer. to Utkv i\w wm\m%tm tin? miMt nf 
 Lahratii^r fimt, and (or that purfMiw Mnk^l v«fy miAf m ikim mm- 
 tmu ^vi^ lf«w Uemion tm ^ lik ni F«bfiiiirjr, tiift 
 
 ' AAir iMMf mm Ufw wmkM, mm of mut Aifmmtm #ii. Mil 
 wm kmmi m mm. Tliia mmm m Jlg j n ^bm§ it inmnt 
 
 VaO Mi Mt 4n^NNfMSIIM■l It QM racilflp mi IpiM tHMlMMMItir flf t 
 
 m MM, mfmm^f «Im9 wiim M ii for iJm §m ^m- 
 pmwm miwiirn 1 1» iht mmmmim of tiii. Whm «• 
 .mm kkmiB m ^ #MNi4. tlM>f«« mmm nwi^tiiii m «f 
 
 MM MM|r HMa wMy MMHV MB HHB MM! wm MMM , iMt 
 'il Mlllllii >ii# iMiM iMif tfM m$k M4i>, 1^ 
 
 »*tib iImi tiiMinHiiiiiiMiiim iMl n 
 
 
78 ARCTIC EXl'EIilENCES. 
 
 while, along uie known currents which set to or from the ship, 
 but beyond that we know not its journey, or whither it is carried 
 — wliether it ever comes to rest, or is ceaselessly borne about by 
 the ever-shifting waters, until the continual friction first denudes 
 the body of its covering, and then the bones of its llesli, or, per- 
 hajjs. that it is destined to furnish a ghastly meal to some mon- 
 ster of the deep. 
 
 ** * A |iluri;{(' anil a •|ila«>h. and oiir fa-k whk o'er; 
 The billiiw^ iuIIimI u« iIkm nillcl iH-rnrc. 
 Aixl nuiny a rude pravcr halliiv«<i| iln- wave 
 Am it roiled uInj\c hin ix-euii ifruve.' 
 
 NevorthelcHB we know that at th** hu*t they nhall not be forgot- 
 ten, VV'c have th*- [ironiitM' that 'th*- wea Mhall give up itj« dead.' 
 
 '* We had a rough paitKnge to N<wfouhdlarid : buton getting in 
 th<* ice oil' th»' eita!*t o( I^ibrador, ht lound much <«iii<Kith<T wui- 
 Mjg, but very eoid. Ilf-n- w inrt u veiwel in the we (I forget ber 
 name^; hIii; wm out of pruviiiiotits, niid » {niri of ber crew cmih' 
 over Um? brok< *; i. . Ut «t>lidt «m1, fliid mrt in vain. CapUun 
 <^imvle |piy« ili«ra aJJ tlM fetxi tliey oimki mrrv, frith whmh liter 
 joyfully n^mmaA U» tkmr tmn vfiiadL 
 
 ** Kimitiig nn mwI*. w** mmm }cfl (irir iW C«fw«»ti^MHl Uttm. nrnv- 
 m^&K ttm^mkm Ukmd iti tW «^rlv |«rt t4 MmmIi: mnA I <tMl 
 mmif fti^gi* A* HarrMM* wc^titer *<- «'X|i(*fr-«iii«i m ^m itm»ttf 
 -kn ilf' M ., kMi^. aboNH «r to «r #., *• MWii end «-*«<«# 
 HH^wvi^iii msHn. I uuiiis vn^ Mmm MiiHN^ nnnti 
 
 MMML IPwMI WmMt Wir f*ttCMiHNi ^Hiir' 'WHflff^^. WttMt 
 
 ■I^^^V ^WF Iff ^H^^^^Kv ^nHiffV IB^^^ ^^W^^p w^Wp WRHT HB^HW^^f ^pB^^ liPflF 
 
 ^^ < lifjnfk <i < ^Ni I 4mmm$ mm li^ i iplrtti* - .:# g# 
 
 '1H^^V1|PIP ^iMV -^iw^^^p .^•iWMIHP ^mniMi<.. sIMp iMMHHiVlw SMV Sir 3|B||IP -^HP 
 
SEAL HUXTIXG. 
 
 79 
 
 encouragement to the rest of the party while we were on our 
 long drift, knowing that once we could reach this latitude, all 
 fear of starvation would be at an end. 
 
 "On this my first voyage we killed numbers of these seals, and 
 many a good battle we had with them. The male, in partioilar. 
 will dclerid his family to the death. Th<.'.se seals are quite large, 
 and are taken, like the whale, mainly fi>r the oil. 
 
 •' Finding no whale oft' Ucsolution J^Iand, we next bore away 
 
 ■m,- ' m mmim^ pm 4i mmm Urn md t 
 
80 ARCTIC EXPERIEXCES. 
 
 York. Sometimes the belt is wider than at other times; tiiere 
 is a difference in seasons. Sometimes it extends as far south 
 as Cape Walsingham. North of this ' middle-ice' is what whale- 
 men call the ' north water,' which is always free in summer. 
 
 "The whalemen always work their ships up the coast of 
 Greenland between the fast bay-ice and this middle or pack-ice, 
 when making for the north water, because there is less ice there 
 than on the westerly side of Batlin Bay ; then, having reached 
 the north water, and crossed to the west, make their catch of 
 whales, and start to return home in the latter j)art of August 
 or early in September, so as to avoid being caught in the fall 
 'pack,' V hich at that time of the year is canning down. There 
 are alwjys two packs: one in the spring, cau.sed by the early 
 breaking ice, and the other in th<; full, caused by the breaking 
 up of lh«? ice. which ha« rt'<piired the accumulated heat of the 
 whole Arctic 8umm<'r to »Uiri it from iIm- sounds, fiords, and in- 
 l«'t.-. which are leas inllucnced bjf the warmer uuder-current» of 
 tiie ojM-n t«y. 
 
 *^Bnt tr> return U) our vnft^. W« fn( flg^ted the land at 
 n -• uUtrji, a settiemint in the MMid^i ofOn-i-uland. The land 
 in Uiat VKrinitv, and, an I afterwaftl dmsitvrrtid. n«»rlv the whole 
 QCMMt, M ktiih and nK)Qnt«tn«NW, |i will ting a numt lUmAatm a^ 
 If I )»A not knovn tiwp het, I mrnld mmmlf kmm 
 ■t it aartiin«^i any inii«iHtj»tK. B«t «• wmm ImhI m^ 
 <«f tliM : Air. puinf iIm akif M tl« iee, «e 
 itnmed^plv *hHH^' mA verjr ■ i w i tly iAvs mam 
 htr«#tlMW Iwiffiiy mm •4' thm Hortli ««• mmm mmLa§ dv«r d» 
 t» M» ptf «• A VIM '. ami diMT irat 
 r mnli mmm mm m mafmamd hf amivp Ami ^r 
 Ofmmm t hmi ifcrayv hmt4 at Hm mmB 
 
 ^m VBv mHIBVMHHHmK* XBHp HWPBWpWI Jl W^tK^^ HHHr H^Mv alBI^V v^^MH^V i 
 
 <tf&M^M ^^t^A ^M^mA ^I^Mlk ^Hitf^^^^flMlfe MHfMt Al^tfMIWk '^AftAflft 4&MMiL— — JB MHHIlMlMIIMI^B 4HMIk 
 WKfW wSm9titf mPMv w**"^" iPwwHH^^w *!*** SmPiW^ wBHBBB ^^^W^"-'-'"' "• mESHRRB^BI «WBr 
 
 ^ai fVMP M % Hhi'W MMI iEMMI HM 4m^ VMHMMt INMMjjJ^ v-- 
 
;|i |!|n iii'^ 
 
 il 
 
 
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 1 
 
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 lii 
 
 : ij!!:ii III 
 
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 M '^,-i' 
 
 i'ldi 
 
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 1' ' i \\'\ 
 
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 ¥^'m 
 
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 My 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
THE "DEVIL'S THUMB." 83 
 
 were dressed in seal-skins, with round seal-skin caps on their 
 heads — and, when laid horizontal on the ice, about the length 
 of the smaller kind of seals — I could not help thinking but 
 that God had made them thus, with their brown faces, so that 
 they could imitate the creatures, and so decoy and catch them, 
 which they often do. llolsteinborg, I afterward found, consist- 
 ed of about a dozen huts, or houses, and less than tifty inhabit- 
 ants. 
 
 ''The ice did not detain us long here. It soon opened, and we 
 proceeded northward to Di.sco, where we were again su^pped by 
 the ice. Disco is a regular rendezvous of the English whaling- 
 fleet, as well a-s being frequently visited by the American whalers. 
 It is on an i.sland, and is a larger settlement than Ilol.steinborg: 
 the place of the anchorage is called Goodhavn. There are over 
 twenty hotises here, and. I was told, .seventy or eighty |)COple. 
 I have since ascertained that the Danes who come out here in 
 the governor's suite, and others who visit the country for com- 
 iiHfrcial purposes, and atop any length of time — e8j>ecially thow 
 who intf.'nd to make it their home — not infre<|ijently marry na 
 tive women : m that at some of tbe mtdementM you may nee a 
 family where the chiklMtii b«ve tbe light, flaxen hair of the Dane, 
 and the dark, bronzed eheek of tbe mUive. Thm mixtan* mainv 
 » mntMm yiiywfnomy. 
 
 **'n» \^^mA point to which we Muled on rov 6m. royage wm 
 mBmA tkm ' Devil'a flMWib. in Mel vi 1 le Iky. ThM ' Thumb ' m a 
 \mw ptMBied rodt like an nnmewm Bunker lliU Monumfnt, tiMt 
 nmt pwpsMimiMijf to ISA iMiiipit- of s#e or mx iHMMBira fbet; 
 md m n fMiii os m mef bif|k Kikf wkmi, m inymm pmm 
 m pmlkMf mtm or mmm hnimi tm tkmm ^ levtl of 
 ^ nk fliM»l»« ffvat ^fH of ■niimiaim aHmm ^mUmtV^ 
 
 the 4i gi«iif ^ nwfi w j mumg tlw m k mrnt irtaefc t knmfA 
 
 Imm, mm ik» xremrmwrnm vimtk mmH A» iMffp dbnat. mA «i 
 
84 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 
WHALES AND THEIR HAUNTS. 35 
 
 Captain Quayle supplied them with potatoes, and whatever else 
 he could 8pare. I)e Haven returned home that fall. 
 
 "After parting with the explorers, we took the ice oft" Disco 
 about lat. 69° 14' N., long. 53° 30' W., and endeavored to get 
 west bv taking advantage of every opening in the ice, and soon 
 after sighted the west coast of Davis Strait. Then a thick fog 
 set in on us. At this time we were surrounded by whales ; but 
 it is almost impossible to take them when the ice is loose and 
 broken, on account of their runtiing under the large heavy floes 
 to escape, taking the line with them. But we tried our luck, 
 and fortunately captured two. 
 
 ''There are .several .»*pecies of whales: but those most sought 
 within the Polar Circle arc usually either ♦he 'right whale' or 
 the 'white whale:' the former is much larger than tin; latter. 
 There is also the *bow-hea«l' whale, and 'sulphur-bottoma' All 
 the large whales of this region are ' balieeiierM :' that i». the mouth 
 and upper jaw are furnished with th^' balleen, or whaleljone, of 
 fv>fnm<*rce. When a whale i.»* fai«Uned to the ship, and the cat 
 ting and wtripprng of the binblx i - i"-v.<j on. the head w u.Hiially 
 firi«t j«evereti from the UkIv lor eonvi-ni. -nee in gettuig at the \ml- 
 l«^n : but a bfwil c'//< « filer til.' rfir.n'l, r,rfl.<. Atia!<-. and. if necnh 
 mry.mrend men etwiUI at t, .pright ami be at 
 
 Wf>rk. renH»vtt^ tlw whah'brm^ frr»tn the upftpr jaw. the bea<i of 
 tbe vkait hmm§ ahnnt one thmi ot the balk tA tiw ereature. Tbi- 
 »liati« Hiiiiifr' tlwar ' tlr. When thry an? too eiaw> 
 
 ifkikmrniv umHimk/ In WW, mi 
 
 a !inli* kii.*r. « t..,r^ P v mmI ak*^ dM wtm 
 
 *mmf4Unrnimi4: :.. ...^ ..- ^-...ij-.^. uAUmwA, ikmf ■!§» ■ 
 
 t«4 to Umimm Bar n*^ wbra tlirjr •«•« fit4lo«M tlwiii Hh^ Im^ 
 
 %BaiP m ilMMilfwi? i wmmmktw thm htmn^ mki 
 
 mi^v ^pM»^ ^m •^w^Ki ^^rimshi hrhhmi ^wbbiw ^^ wp^sh^ bhw* 
 Mil fhmAmm Wmmmt m km ■ <l««iptfiMr «i Am ' 
 
1^ ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 in both directions ; for not many years after they were reported 
 plenty in Behring Strait they were back again to the north-w st 
 part of Hudson Bay and Davis Strait, But certain it is, that no 
 whale has ever been found on this side of the continent bearing 
 any evidence that it had traveled from the Pacific. I think the 
 scarcity and plenty, and, within certain limits, the changing of 
 their haunts, is explained by the foct that when they become un- 
 profitably scarce in one location the whalers go to another ; and 
 thus give them, for two or three seasons, a chance to breed again. 
 
 " The right whale is often fifty or sixty feet long, but the white 
 whale does not average more than fifteen — from twelve to twen- 
 ty. The blubber produces a very superior kind of oil, and its 
 texture is more gelatinous and less gross than that of the larger 
 whales. In the water this fish is a brilliant, shiny white. A com- 
 mon harpoon is scarcely fit for this fish, for it is necessary to pen- 
 etrate through the blubber to the flesh to have it hold. The Es- 
 quimaux consider the flesh of the white whale excellent eating, 
 
 "I once had, when I was boat-steerer, quite an adventure with 
 a whale which was determined not to die. It was a large and 
 valuable balleener. Soon after the boat was lowered we got 
 alongside. As I rose to heave the harpoon, it seemed, almost in 
 an instant, that the whale had plunged down to the bottom of the 
 bay ; as the rope uncoiled and went over the gunwale it fairly 
 smoked with the intense rapidity of the friction, and I had to or- 
 der it 'doused' to prevent its taking fire. It came, too, within a 
 hair-breadth of capsizing us. Fortunately the line was over sev- 
 enty fathoms long, and of the strongest kind. After she plunged 
 we followed on, it taking all our strength to bring the boat near 
 enough to her to keep the line slack. She staid under water 
 the first time so long that we thought she was dead and sunk. 
 It was nearly an hour before she rose ; and when she did, the 
 jerk almost snapped Ovir strong line, already weakened by the 
 friction and unusual tension, 
 
 " As soon as she appeared she began to beat t' water with 
 her flukes, and swirled around so that it appeared .; possible to 
 get a lance in her; and, while I was endeavormg to do this, our 
 line parted, and away she went, carrying the harpoon ' tb jer. 
 We followed with all the speed we coald force, and al iasit, after 
 several hours' hard pull, came up with her. She seemed to know 
 we were following, and several times disappeared, and then com- 
 
PROLONGED STRUGGLE WITH A WHALE. 87 
 
 ing up to blow, perhaps half a mile off; but we were bound to have 
 her. On and on she went, on and on we followed. The moon 
 was shining, and the Arctic summer night was almost as light as 
 day, and deep into the night we followed her. Down she went, 
 for the sixth or seventh time, but fatigue was getting the better 
 of her. She was weakening, while, with all the fatigue, our spir- 
 its and strength too were kept up by the excitement. At last, 
 when we had been nearly twenty-four hours on the chase, I got 
 another harpoon in her. This seemed to madden her afresh. 
 Another plunge, which had nearly carried us with her ; but this 
 tiiae she did not stay down more than ten or twelve minutes. 
 Up she came once more, the water all around covered with blood, 
 and we knew she was done for. Three or four lances were hurled 
 into her ponderous bulk, and at last our exertions were rewarded 
 by seeing her roll over on her side. She was dead. We bent 
 on another strong line, and soon towed her to a floe. But we 
 found ourselves, with our prize, a good nine miles from the ship. 
 We could not, therefore, save the blubber, but we made a good 
 haul of balleen, with which we loaded our boat to its utmost ca- 
 pacity, and then dragged her, with her heavy cargo, the whole 
 distance over the ice to the ship, which is what I call a fair day's 
 work. 
 
 " Sailors have a rough life of it, but they often contrive to 
 amuse themselves in circumstances which most landsmen would 
 consider very miserable. Often when the ice was too thick to 
 bore through with the vessel, and we had to lie to, awaiting a 
 break up of the ice, there would be discovered openings here and 
 there, around which would be gathered flocks of aquatic or semi- 
 aquatic birds. On the small islands, and inshore about the base 
 of the rocks, they chiefly congregated. There were the eider- 
 ducks, the little dovekiea, the beautiful ivory gulls, and the vora- 
 cious, thieving, burgomaster gull? — so named by the Danish set- 
 tlers, which appears to be a reflection upon the unamiable traits 
 of their oppressive burgomasters at home. 
 
 " The la3t-named birds the sailors are always fond of tricking, 
 because they get so much of their living by snatching food from 
 other birds, sometimes even out of their very mouths, and they 
 also steal the eider-ducks-eggs. But there is another bird equal- 
 ly or more voracious 
 
 "One day I saw a messu.. '^ fixing a lot of strings about six 
 
88 
 
 ARCTIC KXrERIKNCES. 
 
 feet long, to the ends of which he affixed a bait of seal blubber : 
 then, tying all the strings together at the other end, and also 
 across the middle, he flung the baited ends overboard. Presently 
 a lot of mollimokes espied the food, and one and another seized 
 a morsel, when, suddenly, jerk went Jack's arm, and out flew the 
 blubber from the beaks of the ' mollis.' Over and over they tried 
 it, until at last, bafiled and disgusted, away they flew. But to 
 return to our voyage. 
 
 "The fog clearing, we pressed our way along through the 
 
 BIVEB-UUOKS. 
 
 broken ice till we got near shore, where we found clear water, 
 and went into harbor, some sixty miles north of Cape Walsing- 
 ham ; but after a few days, finding no whales, we steered for the 
 cape, where we found most of the English and Scotch whaling- 
 ships. Here we were also unfortunate, and soon left for Cumber- 
 land Gulf, in the latitude of Cape Mercy, being at the north side 
 of the gulf, 64° 45' N., long. 64° 30' W. 
 
 '' It was in the early part of September, 1850, when the M^Ckl- 
 
WINTERING AMHORE. 89 
 
 Ian arrived in Cumberland Gulf, and there had never been but 
 a few ships in those waters, except Captain Penny a short t'nrie 
 before, and some few Scotch and English whalemen. But little 
 was known of the gulf at that period. 
 
 "Captain Quayle, hearing from the Esquimaux that early in 
 the spring, before the ships were able to get in the bay, there 
 were plenty of whales there, called for volunteers to go ashore 
 and stop through the winter, concluding that the vessel should 
 now go home and return for the shore party when they came up 
 again next year. Twelve men volunteered, of whom I was one. 
 We took our traps out of the APCldlan, went ashore, and pre- 
 empted a section of land whereon to build a hut or house. The 
 captain gave us what provisions he could spare ; but it was not 
 much, for the vessel had only been provisioned for the usual 
 trip, and the owners had not anticipated that twelve men would 
 require food for eight or ten months longer than was customary. 
 There was very little lumber either that we could get from the 
 ship, so we built the house of stones, filling the crevices with 
 earth and moss, and making the roof by laying poles across and 
 covering these with canvas; inside we built berths, or bunks. 
 Before winter was over we got very short of food, and could not 
 have survived if it had not been for the game we shot and the 
 seals we caught. We had to learn the Esquimaux ways of eat- 
 ing and cooking, and before spring I was pretty well acclimated ; 
 and though the life was so rough and so different to what I had 
 been accustomed to, having lived all my previous life in New 
 York city, yet my health was good ; in fact, the whole party 
 kept well. 
 
 "We had not many opportunities of making pets of any thing 
 out there; the dogs were too fierce, and small animals of any kind 
 were scarce ; but one day I saw a young seal ; it looked so pretty, 
 with its pure white coat (the young of the Greenland seal is en- 
 tirely white) and bright hazel eyes, that I took it up in my arms 
 like a baby, and carried it along, talking and whistling to it by 
 the way. The little creature looked at me, turning its head 
 round to look up in my face without any apparent alarm, and 
 seemingly soliciting me to give it something to eat. I thought 
 I should take a great deal of comfort with my little pet, for I had 
 not then got accustomed to seeing the young ones killed, much 
 less eating them myself. 
 
90 ARCTIC EXrEKIKNCES. 
 
 "Arrived at our house, I carefully deposited it outside in a 
 suitable place and went inside to get my supper, hurrying through 
 my meal to get out and look after my treasure. I looked around, 
 but it was not where I had left it. 1 began to suspect mischief^ 
 and, sure enough, there it was, a little way off, dead, with its back 
 broken by the heavy heel of a whaler's boot ; one of the men, 
 with a malignancy impossible for me to understand, had pressed 
 the life out of my only pet simply to gratify a brutal nature. 
 Had I been quite sure who was the perpetrator, my indignation 
 would have found other vent, I suspect, than words. 
 
 "In the spring we had the satisfaction of knowing that we 
 had not wintered there in vain, as we killed seventeen whales; 
 and, had we been more experenced, we could have captured 
 many more; but this was the first season that any whalemen 
 had passed the winter in that region, and we had every thing to 
 learn. 
 
 "As summer approached, we began to look anxiously for our 
 ship. All our original stock of provisions had been long con- 
 sumed, and we had to hunt hard to get enough to eat; and I 
 scarcely believe we should have succeeded in securing enough to 
 sustain so large a party if it had not been for the help of the 
 friendly Esquimaux. 
 
 "While we were busy whaling in the spring, and before we 
 had learned to eat whale-meat — for whalemen only strip off the 
 blubber, and abandon the carcass (having also taken the valuable 
 portions of the bone) — the natives would seize upon the latter 
 and strip off all the meat. What they could not eat they put in 
 .seal-skin 'drugs,' or bags, and these they stowed away for future 
 use, hiding the bags by covering them up on the various islands 
 in the gulf or inlet. Subsequently, in our hunting excursions, we 
 often came across these 'drugs;' and if our chase had been unsuc- 
 cessful, and ourselves very hungry, as was frequently the case, 
 we helped ourselves to these reservoirs of old whale-meat; and as 
 much of it had been lying under the stones for several months, 
 it was not particularly savory ; but we were often very glad, in- 
 deed, to gel it. 
 
 " it was not until the month of September — a whole year hav- 
 ing passed — that we were rejoiced by the sight of a vessel. On 
 boarding her, we found that she belonged to Hull, in Yorkshire, 
 England, and was named the True Love; her captain's name was 
 
RELIEVED BY THE TRUE LOVE. 91 
 
 Parker. She had formerly been a privateer in the American war 
 of the Revolution, and was at the time I speak of about nineUj 
 fjears old; and the good old bark was still afloat but a few years 
 ago, and Captain Parker was still in her as late as 1860, and is 
 nearly as old as the vessel. She has since been lost. The fact 
 is, no vessel will last so long as a whaler, unless accident destroys 
 her; for once get a ship soaked with whale-oil, and it is impos- 
 sible for her to rot. 
 
 "On board of her we were surprised to find our old captain, 
 Quayle. He had lost the M^Clellan in Melville Bay; and having 
 put his crew on board of different whaling-ships, and sent them 
 home, via England, he, with his boat's crew, was taken up by the 
 True Love, Captain Parker kindly consenting to come round and 
 pick us up too ; and right glad we were to get a good keel under 
 us again, and some civilized food to eat. But still we could not 
 get home. The True Love was bound for Hull, and on the 4th 
 of October sailed for England. Nothing worthy of special notice 
 occurred on the V03 age until we reached the Scottish coast, where 
 we encountered a terrific gale, which the good old Trne Love 
 weathered; but another whaler which was in our company went 
 ashore and was lost. Being anxious to get home, I went to Liv- 
 erpool, and sailed from thence in December, in the Cnarles Holmes, 
 Captain Crocker, an American vessel bound for New York. 
 
 " When forty days out, we experienced a heavy gale from the 
 north-west ; we were still to the eastward of the Banks of New- 
 foundland. Having had nothiiig but westerly gales the whole 
 passage, and our vessel having lost nearly all her sails, and, though 
 a new ship, having made considerable water, and there being 
 nearly three hundred passengers on board, some sick, some dy- 
 ing, and all in a most wretched condition, the captain finally con- 
 cluded to turn back; and though we had been forty days beat- 
 ing to the east of the Banks, the strong westerly gales carried us 
 back in eight days to QuefiiStown, where the vessel put in for 
 repairs. I staid by her unti dhe was ready for sea again, which 
 was not until March, and once more set sail for home, where I 
 arrived in the ensuing April. 
 
 "Having had such a hard experience, and my friends strongly 
 urging the point, I concluded to give up going to sea, and re- 
 turned to my old business in the manufacture of iron-ware, but 
 very soon grew tired of it, and again longed for the sea. It has 
 
92 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. 
 
 its hanlships, but it has its compensations too: at least I was sure 
 that I could never spend my life in the stifling atmosphere of an 
 iron-factory ; and so, in the spring of 1855, I went again to New 
 London, and shipped as ' boat-steerer ' in the bark George Henry, 
 Captain James Buddington (uncle of Captain S. O. Buddington, 
 sailing-master of the Polaris). 
 
 On arriving once more on the scene of my old adventures off 
 the entrance to Cumberland Gulf, where we were bound, we en- 
 countered an extraordinary heavy pack of ice. It extended over 
 a hundred miles to the eastward, and it was impossible to get into 
 the gulf while this pack remained along the coast. So, to pass 
 away the time until the ice cleared away, we sailed for Disco 
 Bay, where we were pretty sure to find the ' humpback ' whale, 
 which we did, making a good catch. In August we sailed again 
 for Cumberland Gulf, expecting, of course, by that time, that the 
 pack would be gone; but, to our surprise, it was still there. 
 Never in all my experience have I seen any thing equal to it; 
 but, forbidding as it was, we must 'take it' to get into the gulf, 
 though it was so compact and heavy that the July and August 
 suns seemed to have made no impression upon it. But ' nothing 
 venture, nothing have.' We took the ice off Cape Walsingham: 
 and on penetrating the pack about forty miles, it closed on us, 
 and we were regularly 'beset,' our drift being to the southward. 
 
 " In the latter part of August I sighted a vessel, which at first 
 we all supposed to be a whaler, as we knew there were several 
 trying to get in the gulf. This vessel remained in sight several 
 days. At times we imagined she had all sail on, and was work- 
 ing through the ice. No one for a moment thought that she was 
 an abandoned vessel, but there was something about her which 
 aroused my curiosity ; I seemed to feel that there would be a story 
 to tell if I could only get at her; and when she had been in sight 
 about two weeks I asked the captain for leave to go over, with 
 two or three companions, to see what she was made of. He ob- 
 jected at first ; thought ' we should never get there ' (she was 
 about ten or twelve miles off>; and if we succeeded in reaching 
 her he was sure ' we would never get back ;' but I was deter- 
 mined, and so at last, in company with the mate, John Quayle, 
 the second mate, Norris Havens, and Mr. Tallinghast, a boat- 
 steerer like myself, we started off for the phantom ship, 
 
 " It was eariy morning when we left the George Henry^ for we 
 
BOARDING THE RESOLUTE. ^ 
 
 knew we bad at least ten, and perhaps more, miles to walk. The 
 task we had set ourselves was no light one ; the pack was very 
 rough, and every little while we came to patches of open water; 
 and as we had no boat with us, we were obliged to extemporize 
 a substitute by getting on small pieces of ice and making pad- 
 dles of smaller pieces; and thus we ferried ourselves across these 
 troublesome lakes and rivers. We were all day on our journey, 
 it being nearly night when we reached the stranger. As we 
 approached within sight we looked in vain for any signs of 
 life. Could it be that all on board were sick or dead? What 
 could it mean ? Surely, if there were any living soul on board, 
 a party of four men traveling toward her across that hurnmocky 
 ice would naturally excite their curiosity. But no one appeared. 
 As we got nearer we saw, by indubitable signs, that she was 
 abandoi. d. 
 
 " ' Toward the shape our steps are bending, 
 Northward turns our eager gaze, 
 Wliere a stately ship appearing, 
 Slowly cleaves the misty haze. 
 Southward floats the apparition ; 
 
 "Is it, can it be the same?" 
 Frantic cries of recognition 
 
 Shout a long, lost vessel's name I' 
 
 By this time Mr. Quayle was so tired that I had to assist him 
 in boarding the ship, myself and the other two following. We 
 found the cabin locked and sealed ; but locks and seals did not 
 stand long. A whaler's boot vigorously applied to a door is a 
 very effective key. We were soon in the cabin. This was no 
 whaler, that was plain ; neither was she an American vessel, it 
 was soon discovered. English, no doubt of that. Every thing 
 presented a mouldy appearance. The decanters of wine, with 
 which the late officers had last regaled themselves, were still sit- 
 ting on the table, some of the wine still remaining in the glasses, 
 and in the rack around the mizen-mast were a number of other 
 glasses and decanters. It was a strange scene to come upon in 
 that desolate place. Some of my companions appeared to feel 
 somewhat superstitious, and hesitated to drink the wine, but my 
 long and fatiguing walk made it very acceptable to me, and hav- 
 ing helped myself to a glass, and they seeing it did not kill me, 
 an expression of intense relief came over their countenances, and 
 they all, with one accord, went for that wine with a will; and 
 
94 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 there and then we all drank a bumper to the late officers and 
 crew o( the Besohite. 
 
 "It was now too dark to attempt to travel back that night 
 over the broken ice, and we prepared to stay where we were. 
 Possibly the wine we had taken, being at that time unused to it, 
 partly influenced us to this conclusion; but sleep in the vessel 
 we did. 
 
 " In the morning we found it snowing, and blowing very heavy 
 
 "EVEBY TUIMU FBE8EMTKD A llOVLUM Al'I'EAKANCE." 
 
 from the south-east. We could not hope ever to find our way 
 back to the George Henry in such a storm, and so, having made 
 a fire, we were prepared to pass the time as comfortably as possi- 
 ble. Among other things, we found some of the uniforms of the 
 officers, in which we arrayed ourselves, buckling on the swords, 
 and putting on their cocked hats, treating ourselves, as British 
 officers, to a little more wine. Well, we had what sailors call a 
 'good time,' getting up an impromptu sham duel; ajid before 
 those swords were laid aside one was cut in twain, and the others 
 
RETURN TO THE SHIP. 95 
 
 were backed and beaten to pieces, taking care, however, not to 
 harm our precious bodies, though we did some hard fighting — 
 we, or the wine ! 
 
 "The storm continued for three days, during which we had 
 ample time to investigate the condition and inspect the contents 
 of the good ship Rtsolute. We found food on board, and were 
 enjoying ourselves so well that we should not have cared if it 
 had lasted six. But the weather cleared up, and ^ e saw that the 
 Oeorge Henry was still at about the same distance from us ; so we 
 took all we could carry on our backs, and started to return, arriv- 
 ing at our ship all safe, though some of us got a good ducking 
 by jumping into the water while attempting to spring from one 
 piece of ice to another. Being so heavily laden, we often fell 
 short of the mark, and went plump into the water; but we were 
 in such good spirits that these little mishaps, instead of inciting 
 condolence, were a continual cause of merriment 
 
 'On arriving at the Georrje Henry, we made our report to Cap- 
 tain Buddington, describing oar treasure-trove in glowing terms. 
 After a good rest, we again started for the Resolute, and staid sev- 
 eral days on board. At this time the two vessels were nearing 
 each other — the one voluntarily, the other drifting, as she had 
 already done, for a thousand miles. We did not know this at 
 the time, but learned afterward that the Resolute had been aban- 
 doned, by Sir Edward Belcher's orders, on May 15, 1854, near 
 Dealy Island, and had drifted all the way to Cape Mercy. 
 
 "At last the two vessels were only about four miles apart. 
 We were still having a nice time, when, one morning, we saw 
 several persons coming over the ice, and, to our discomfiture, 
 they proved to be the captain, with several of the crew. We 
 very soon got orders to return on board the Qeorye Henry, while, 
 to our chagrin, the captain took possession of the Resolute. 
 
 " We had now drifted as far south as Cumberland Gulf, Cape 
 Mercy bearing west about twenty-five miles distant; but the ice 
 was still close and compact. Had we now caught a good gale 
 from the south-east, we were just in the right position to have 
 been drifted where we wished to get, up into the gulf But no; 
 instead, we got a gale from the north-west, blowing us directly 
 out of the gulf, and away we drifted past it, and once more to 
 the south of it. 
 
 " There was no Jiope of getting back while the pack-ice lay 
 
96 ARCTIC KXl'EKIENCES. 
 
 along the coast; and our only hope now was to get out of the 
 pack as quickly as po.ssible, and return home. The Resolute, get- 
 ting a lead through the ice, got out on the 14th of October, but 
 the Oeorge Uenry was still fast, and drifting slowly southward; 
 though we too were soon to be released from the pack, but such 
 a release as one would wish to see but once in a lifetime. 
 
 'On the 25th of October a strong gale commenced to blow 
 from the north-east, and continued with great violence. On the 
 26th there was a very heavy sea running under the ice; all 
 through the night, and to the morning of the 27th, it was dark 
 and stormy, with danger all the time ol" drifting upon great ice- 
 bergs. Many heavy spurs, rough and jagged, projected from 
 these bergs, cutting fearfully into the vessel, and finally she 
 pounded her keel off, tore her rudder, and injured her stern-post. 
 
 *' On getting clear of the bay, we went to the pumps, and found 
 the vessel making a great deal of water. On the abatement of 
 the gale, we repaired our rudder as best we could, and then start- 
 ed for home, short of men, of course, as more than half of the 
 crew was with Captain Buddington, on board of the Resolute. 
 But with pumping day and night in heavy weather we could 
 not keep the vessel free of water — it would gain on the pumps 
 hourly ; but. when the weather was moderate we could keep her 
 nearly free. After a most laborious passage, we made out to keep 
 her afloat until we reached New London, in forty days from the 
 start. The Resolute did not arrive until some time after — her pas- 
 sage being sixty days, 
 
 "I next went as second mate, in 1856, with Captaif. James 
 Buddington, in the George Henry, having the Ameret, a top-sail 
 schooner, as tender, and wintered in Cumberland Gulf, lat, 65° 25' 
 N., long. 67° W. ; returned in August of 1857, and sailed again 
 as first mate, and arrived in the gulf October 14; and this season 
 passed another winter there, returning in the fall of 1858. 
 
 "I bad now become so accustomed to the northern climate 
 that it seemed more natural to me than a more southern one. 
 Sailed again in the spring of 1859, as first officer, but started to 
 return home in November of the same year, as our vessel was 
 dismasted off Cape Charles, and we got into St. Johns, New- 
 foundland, where we repaired, and arrived home in February. 
 
 "In the spring of 1860 sailed as master of the brig Oeorgiana. 
 Previous to my departure, I made the acquaintance of Captain 
 
• MEETS CAPTAIN C. F. HALL. 97 
 
 C. F. Hall. He was then writing to the papers and lecturing 
 through the country, endeavoring to interest and stimulate the 
 public on the subject of his projected expedition. I lent him the 
 model of an Esquimaux kayack, which he used in several of his 
 lectures. I afterward met him just north of Frobisher Bay. I 
 was in that vicinity at the time he lost the schooner Rescue, and 
 at that time I came near losing my vessel, as reported in his work 
 in 'Arctic Researches;' but though she was beating on the rocks, 
 during a violent storm, for twenty-four hours, myself and crew 
 having to get ashore on spars to save our lives, I finally saved 
 both vessel and cargo. Returned home in the fall of 1861. 
 
 "Sailed again, in the spring of 1862, in the bark Orray Toft, 
 of New Bedford ; wintered once more in the North, and returned 
 home in the fall of 1863. The Orray Tafl was wrecked and lost 
 near Marble Island, in September, 1872, while I was in the Polaris 
 at Thank God Harbor; and a sLct time after the Ansel Gihbs, a 
 whaler known to many Arctic explorers, was lost at the same 
 place. The men had to winter on Marble Island, and were not 
 rescued till August, 1873, at the time I was on board the Tigress 
 searching for Captain Buddington. Many of the men were lost ; 
 some at the time of the wreck, and fourteen from scurvy, brought 
 on by exposure and insufficient and improper food. 
 
 "Sailed again, in the spring of 1864, in the bark Antelope, of 
 New Bedford, and on this vovajre staid out two winters — one in 
 Hudson Bay, and one in Cumberland Gulf. On this trip I took 
 my vessel farther north than any of the whalers had been before. 
 I sailed right ahead into Repulse Bay, and took the first tvhale 
 there that teas ever caught in those waters — the whalers having 
 previous to that limited themselves to the latitude of Wager Riv- 
 er. Since, however, they have freely visited Repulse Bay. This 
 bay probably offers, on its north shore, more and better harbors 
 than any place within the whaling regions ; but the south shore 
 is clean and level, without harbors ; and there is a peculiarity 
 about this locality which I have never found elsewhere so near 
 the Arctic Circle, and that is the frequency of thunder-storms, 
 accompanied by vivid lightning. 
 
 While I was in winter-quarters in Hudson Bay, Captain Hall 
 visited the bark Mbnticello, which had brought him out, and also 
 other vessels wintering there, including the Antelope. 1 then had 
 long talks with him about getting up another expedition after he 
 
 7 
 
98 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 had found out all he could about Sir John Franklin's expedition, 
 and he always wound up by saying he wanted me to go with 
 him, lie was badly off for boats at that time, and I let him have 
 one of mine. The Antelope was lost in a severe storm in the year 
 1865, and I returned to St. Johns, Newfoundland, in the steamer 
 Wolf, Captain Skinner, and from there got home. 
 
 " Sailed again, in the spring of 1867, in the top-sail schooner 
 Era, on which voyage the schooner broke out of winter-quarters 
 in December, and drifted out to sea. We had two vessels in 
 company caught in the same drift; one was abandoned, the other 
 run ashore. The Era, finally drifting in among some bergs, was 
 frozen in for the winter. During thia voyage I met Captain 
 Hall again. He was living with the Esquimaux; in 'training,' 
 as the sportsmen would say, for the great work which he even 
 then had in mind. I supplied him with provisions of various 
 kinds, and he, when he had opportunity, sent the natives with 
 fresh meat to the ships. 
 
 "Sailed again, in the Era, in the spring of 1869, returning in 
 the fall of 1870. 
 
 "In referring to my old log-books, as well as in recalling the 
 events themselves, I find that the experiences of whaling are not 
 essentially different from those of the Polar exploring parties — 
 80 far, I mean, as the exposures and dangers are concerned. We 
 were in continual risk of getting ' beset,' and often were closed 
 in, and unable to move for days or weeks, and sometimes com- 
 pelled to remain and winter, being unable to break out or bore 
 our way through. The olu log-books are full of such entries as 
 these : 
 
 '• 'Schr. Era, July 17, 1867. Beset in the ice, North Bluff bearing E.N.E. 
 
 " ^July 18. Laying by ; ice-anchor out ; all sails furled ; no water in sight. 
 
 " ' Ja/y 23. Working slowly through the ice to the westward. 
 
 " ^Sept. At anchor at Black-lead Island. 
 
 " 'Or^ 2'.). Bay fall of drifting ice. 
 
 " ^.Tuly 6, 1869. All hands employed breaking out vessel. 
 
 " ^July 27. Working in the pack, Cape Misery bearing N.N.E. 
 
 " ^July 29. Beset ; no water visible. 
 
 " ^Nov. 18. At winter-quarters at Niountelik Harbor. All hands employed saw- 
 ing ice; eight ships in company. 8 p.m. ; blowing hard; ice commenced to break 
 up. Worked all night to try and save the vessel. At 12, midnight, let go the star- 
 board anchor, and got the larboard chain ashore ; thick snow. 
 
 " ^Nov. 19. Thick snow; one anchor down; ice all broken up; expecting to go 
 ashore. If wind hauls N.W., we are saved ; otherwise the chance is small. 
 
WITH THE POLARIS AS ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR. 99 
 
 " ^Dec. 8. Ice on the move, and forcing the schooner inshore, broadside to, 
 through ice nine inches thick, 
 
 '• ^ Dec, 9. Drove in between grounded icebergs; took out provisions; took ashore 
 square-sail and mainsail to make a house. Two teams of dogs from Niountelik help- 
 ed haul our things ; 20^ below zero.' 
 
 "On this last occasion the ship remained frozen in until Feb- 
 ruary, and myself and the crew lived ashore in the house or hut 
 we had built with stones and covered with the sails taken from 
 the ship, watching anxiously all the time for a break up, which 
 might either relieve the ship or crush her to pieces. I could not 
 tell what would happen ; but, fortunately, in February the ice 
 began to break, and I got over to my ship, found she was still 
 sea- worthy, repaired damages, got our provisions and other arti- 
 cles aboard again, and, getting a lead out, finished my intended 
 trip, making, after all, a very fair voyage. 
 
 "On arriving at home, New London, in October, 1870, Captain 
 Hall called to see me. lie informed me that he had succeeded in 
 getting an expedition started for the North Pole, and wished me 
 to go with him in the capacity of sailing-master and ice-pilot; 
 but at that time I had a project of my own on hand, and had 
 opened negotiations with a party, expecting to get a vessel for 
 the white whale-fishery, and I so stated to Captain Hall. lie call- 
 ed on me several times to persuade me to go, but I felt obliged 
 to decline, having commenced negotiations with other parties. I 
 then heard that he had engaged S. O. Buddington. 
 
 "As I did not succeed in effecting an agreement about the 
 whale-fishing which I had had in view, I concluded to remove, 
 with my fiimily, from New London to Brooklyn ; and shortly 
 after, the Polaris coming to the Navy Yard there, I called to see 
 Captain Hall. He again requested me to join the expedition, 
 making me many promises: at that time all the positions were 
 filled ; but he was not to be denied, and he declared he would 
 make a position for me, for go I must. 
 
 "At last I consented to go; and in forty-eight hours from the 
 time I agreed to accompany him, I had made all my arrange- 
 ments, procured my outfit, bade farewell to friends, and was on 
 my way to the North Pole. The rest of my Arctic experiences 
 will be found narrated in the history of the Polaris expedition, 
 the ice-floe voyage, and in the journal of my trip in the Tigress, 
 in search of Captain Buddington and party." 
 
100 AKCTIC EXI'ERIENXES. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE POLARIS EXPEDITION. 
 
 Tlie North Polar Expedition authorized by Congress. — Captain Hall's Commission. 
 — The Periwinkle, afterward Polaris, selected. — Letter of Captain Hall's. — De- 
 scription of the Steamer Polaris. — Liberal Supplies. — A patent Canvas Boat. — 
 Books presented by J. (Larson Brevoort. — A characteristic Letter of Captain 
 Hall's. — An Invitation to visit him at the North Pole. 
 
 The Polaris expedition, or, in official language, the "United 
 States North Polar Expedition," which sailed from the Brooklyn 
 Navy Yard on Thursday evening, June 29, 1871, was under the 
 general command of Commander Charles Francis Hall, whose 
 previous explorations in the Arctic and high northern latitudes 
 will be found summarized in the sketch of his life, to be found 
 in its appropriate place, as descriptive of the chief officer of the 
 Polaris. 
 
 On the 8th of March, 1870, Hon. Mr. Stevenson, of Ohio, intro- 
 duced into the House of Representatives a bill authorizing the 
 President to appoint Captain Hall to the command of an ex- 
 ploring expedition to the Arctic regions, reciting the facts of his 
 previous successful journeys, experience, and acclimatization. 
 An identical bill was introduced into the Senate by the Hon. Mr. 
 Sherman, of Ohio, on the 25th of March, and which, after being 
 twice read b}'' its title, was referred to the Committee on Foreign 
 Relations, of which the late Hon. Charles Sumner, of Massachu- 
 setts, was chairman. *, . 
 
 On the 19th of April Mr. Sumner reported back the bill with 
 an amendment striking out all personal reference to Captain 
 Hal], and substituting the phrase "one or more persons." The 
 bill, as amended, finally passed both Houses of Congress on the 
 11th of July, 1870, and was signed by the President on the 12th. 
 See p. 101. 
 
 On the 20th of the same month Captain Hall received his 
 commission from President Grant, of which the following is a 
 copy : 
 
CAPTAIN HALL'S COMMISSION. 
 
 101 
 
 Executive Mansion, Washington, D. C, July 20, 1870. 
 Captain C. F. Hall : 
 Dkau Sik, — You are hereby appointed to command the expedition toward the 
 North Pole, to be or^'anized and sent out pursuant to an Act of Congress approved 
 •fuly 12, 1870, and will report to the Secretary of the Navy and the Secretary of the 
 Interior for detailed instructions. U. S. Gkaxt. 
 
 By a section of this Act the President was authorized to fit 
 out one or more expeditions, and dispatch them toward the North 
 Pole, appointing one or more persons to the command, and also 
 to detail any officer in the public service to take part in it; like- 
 wise to give the use of a public vessel suitable for the purpose 
 {vide Sec. 9 of the Act, in Appendix, page 428). 
 
 TUE roLABia. 
 
 The. scientific operations connected with the expedition were 
 to be directed by the National Academy of Sciences, of which 
 the well-known and widely esteemed Professor J. Henry is pres- 
 ident.* 
 
 Captain Hall was allowed to inspect a number of United States 
 vessels, and it was at his desire that the PeriwinkL, to which the 
 iiame of Polaris was subsequently given, was selected. 
 
 The Polaris was partially fitted out at the Washington Navy 
 Yard ; but it being, on some accounts, more convenient for her 
 
 ♦ See Appendix, p. 431, 
 
102 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 to be completed at Brooklyn, she left Washington on the 10th 
 of June, 1870, and arrived at the Navy Yard, Brooklyn, N. Y,, 
 on the 14th. Here she received the last alterations deemed nec- 
 essary, completed her outHt, received her stores, and shipped her 
 crew. 
 
 While lying at Brooklyn, Captain Ilall addressed the follow- 
 ing letter to the Secretary of the Navy : 
 
 steamer Polaris, Navy Yard, Brooklyn, N. Y., June 2.", 1S71. 
 I have the honor to apply for the appointment of Captain George E. Tyson, navi- 
 gator and master of sledges for the North Polar Expedition, after full consultation 
 with Captain Buddington and First Mate Chester, who agree with myself that the 
 services of Captain Tyson, who has been engaged for over twenty years in voyaging 
 to and from the Arctic seas, would be of great value to the expedition. * * * Cap- 
 tain Tyson is well known to me, and to the whaling-houses of New Bedford and New 
 London, as an experienced, trustworthy navigator and dog-sledge traveler in the 
 
 Arctic regions * I have the honor to be, 
 
 Yours, respectfully, C. F. Hall, 
 
 Commanding U. S. Surth Polar Expedition, 
 Hon. Geo. M. Roiiebon, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 The Polaris was a screw-propeller of only three hundred and 
 eighty-seven tons ; but, in addition to her steam-power, she was 
 fitted with the rig of a foretop-sail schooner, so that, as circum- 
 stances dictated, she could be propelled by steam or wind. Did 
 any irreparable accident happen to her machinery, she could still 
 make fair headway under canvas. To guard against accident to 
 the propeller by contact with the heavy ice it was known she 
 must encounter, the .screw was so arranged that it could be un- 
 shipped and raised to the deck through a shaft in the stern ol 
 the vessel, which, as will be narrated hereafter, was done on the 
 1st of September, 1871. Extra blades were also provided, with 
 which to replace the originals, should they be broken. Her en- 
 gine was considered exceptionally good, and was the product of 
 Neafles & Levy's establishment in Philadelphia. For its size, 
 it was a powerful worker; and space, in this case, was a prime 
 consideration, as so much room was needed for coal and other 
 stores. 
 
 In regard to her boilers, there was an arrangement unique as 
 to United States vessels, one of them being fitted for the use of 
 whale or seal oil as a steam generator; and this was expected 
 not only to be used for the general purpose of propulsion, but 
 
 * See extract of letter from Captain Edwin W. White, in Appendix, p. 42.']. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE POLARIS. 103 
 
 also as a means of heating the vessel when in winter-quarters. 
 Thi;j boiler, as will be subsequently described, was willfully de- 
 stroyed just after leaving Disco. 
 
 The hull of the Polaris was specially prepared for her Arctic 
 voyage by being planked all over with solid six-inch white-oak 
 timber, the bows being made almost solid, and then sheathed 
 with iron which terminated in a sharp prow, with which to bore 
 her way through the ice. Another peculiarity was a new style 
 of life-preserver, in the shape of a buoy, to be kept slung over 
 the stern, but which could, when occasion required, be instantly 
 detached and lowered to the water by means of a connecting 
 spring which could be reached from the pilot-house ; and, by an- 
 other spring conveniently placed, an electric light, kept secured 
 to the buoy, and rising above it between two and three feet, 
 could be instantly lighted by means of a galvanic battery in the 
 cabin. 
 
 In a region where parties are subject to the constant liability 
 of being separated from their ship by the breaking up of the ice, 
 and especially during the dark months from October to February, 
 a contrivance of this kind for forming a beacon-light to those sep- 
 arated by any cause from the ship, might well be termed a life- 
 preserver; and that it was not called into -equisition when Cap- 
 tain Tyson and party were separated from the Pohris on the ice- 
 floe, shows either that due care had not been taken of the appa- 
 ratus, and that it w.ns unusable from neglect, or that those in com- 
 mand did not take the trouble to give this aid to their imperiled 
 companions. 
 
 Extras of all kinds likely to be needed were amply supplied; 
 every sort of running gear, cordage of different sizes, spare sails, 
 spars, and even an extra rudder. She also carried one small 
 howitzer. 
 
 She had also four boats — similar to whale-boats — one flat-bot- 
 tomed scow, and a patent portable folding canvas boat, intended 
 for the use of transglacial parties. This boat was about twenty 
 feet long, four feet wide, and two deep ; and though it weighed 
 only two hundred and fifty pounds, had an estimated carrying 
 capacity of four tons, and was expected, in case of necessity, to 
 carry twenty men, though five or six would be her complement 
 on a surveying trip. 
 
 The skeleton, or frame-work, was constructed of ash and hick- 
 
104 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. 
 
 ory, and over this was aiBxed a water-proof canvas cover, some- 
 thing on the principle of the oomiaks, or seal -skin "women's 
 boats," of the Esquimaux. The boat could be readily disjointed 
 and folded, so as to occupy but a small space, and could thus be 
 laid upon a sledge for portage when no longer needed as a boat ; 
 and, on reaching water again, could be as suddenly retransformed 
 into its original shape. 
 
 Theoretically, it was perfect; but, practically, it was found of 
 little use, being excessively slow. It was used on an exploring 
 trip, and finally abandoned by Mr. Chester, being left at Newman 
 Bay, Mr. Chester and party walking back to the Polaris, then 
 distant from the ship about twenty miles. 
 
 In the cabin, in addition to the small but select library which 
 Captain Hall always had with him, was a cabinet organ, which 
 had been generously presented to the late commander by the 
 " Smith Organ Company," with the hope that its sweet strains 
 would not only assist the regular Sunday service on board the 
 Polaris, but that on other occasions it would help to while away 
 the tedious hours, when prevented from the exercise of more 
 active duties, during the long Arctic night. 
 
 Some very valuable books were lost when the Polaris found- 
 ered. That generous and long-tried friend of Arctic exploration, 
 J. Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn, New York, bad, among other 
 volumes of interest and value, placed on board of that vessel for 
 Captain Hall's use, an entire set of the British Parliamentarj' 
 Blue-books relating to the English Arctic exploring expeditions. 
 There was also a copy of Luke Fox's "Arctic Voyage of 1635," 
 much valued by its owner,* partly from its bearing the following 
 indorsement in Captain Hall's own handwriting, it having been 
 loaned to him also in 1864 : 
 
 This book belongs to my friend, J. Carson Brevoort. 
 
 To-morrow, March 31, myself and native party, consisting of 13 souls, start on 
 
 my Hledge-joumey to King William Land. 
 
 C. F. Hall, 
 Sflth (Snow House) Enc't., near Fort Hope, Repulse Bay, 
 Lat. 6C' 32' N., long. 86' 66' W. 
 Friday, March 80, 1866. 
 
 Part of his library Captain Hall saved — a few books — by 
 leaving them in Greenland with Inspector Karrup Smith, but 
 
 • See interesting letter of Mr. Brevoort's in Appendix, p. 467. 
 
A CHARACTERISTIC LETTER. 105 
 
 many others went down with the good ship Polaris in si.'^ht of 
 Life-boat Cove, while others were mutilated, destroyed, jr aban- 
 doned. 
 
 To show the watchful interest which Captain Ilall took in the 
 proper outfit of his vessel, we introduce the following letter, 
 which is characteristic of the man, and explains itself. It was 
 addressed to a friend who had previously discussed the subject 
 of provisioning the Polaris with him : 
 
 Wabuinoton, D. C, May 28, 1871. 
 Dear Sir, — Your letter of the 26th came to hand, and then I telegraphed you 
 as follows : " Do not purchase any Texas corned beef. Don't like it. Letter by 
 mail." 
 
 The letter promised I purposed to write and send by last night's mail, but some- 
 how I was so completely hemmed in by callers that I couldn't do it. 
 
 I simply say here, relative to the Texas beef, * * * that it does not bear so favor- 
 able a reputation among some that have used it as to justify my having it on so im- 
 portant an expedition as the one we are preparing. Indeed, from an examination 
 and use of the article, I am not favorably impressed with it. 
 
 I think it quite advisable to have half the bread made of the Graham flour. 
 Am pleased that the same can be done. * * * Am quite sure that the flour will 
 not "heat" when over in the North I'olar country. Should there be any danger 
 that it would, before getting out of this melting weather, then it would be wise to 
 liave the wheat kiln-dried before it is ground. This process could not cost more 
 than one-half cent or so per pound. But some miller ought to be able to tell us 
 whether Graham flour will keep or not. I think it will. 
 
 You state as follows : " I do .lot notice in the list any salt beef." Of course, 3'ou 
 can not find such a rank scurvy-breeder in any list I have prepared. It may be that 
 just as we get about ready to start, I shall get you to order the putting up of a few 
 barrels of slightly corned beef. This article, put up in this way, will keep in the 
 climate the expedition is going to, and not give us any scurvy, while the ordinary 
 salt beef of the market will. * * * 
 
 I thank you for your kindly offer to make your house my home when I come 
 there. In response, let me say that when I get well settled doivn at the North Pole, 
 which I hope and believe will be about the middle of next May (1872), then I may 
 send down word to you to come and see me, and make that objective point your 
 home. Methinks I see you shiver at this suggestion. * * ♦ 
 
 The Secretary of the Navy is going to let the Polar Expedition have the store- 
 ship Supply, now on its way from France, as a transport. [United Stales steamer 
 Congress substituted. — Ed.'] All the senators I have spoken with are quite in favor 
 of his doing so. Senators Morton, Patterson, Nye, Thurman, Sumner, Fenton have 
 each indorsed my written request for a transport to Greenland by adding favorable 
 written sentiments they entertain in behalf of this movament. 
 
 If it would help the case at all, / could get nearly every Senator and Representative 
 to indorse so reasonable a petition. But, really, yours and your brother's action, 
 before you left Washington, [sufliciently] contributed to show the Secretary the ex- 
 pediency of sending along a transport. 
 
 I am blessed with having so noble a soul as is Secretary Robeson to aid me in 
 
106 
 
 ARCTIC EXI'ERIENCLS. 
 
 accomplishing the great work of my life. / love the man, and therefore his most 
 intimate friends from early days, as are you and your brother, I profoundly respect. 
 I rejoice that the Secretary has selected you to attend upon me, for now, without 
 difficulty, I can have whatever, in reason, I shall recjuire to help me to make geo- 
 graphical discoveries from lat. 80'' N. up to the North Pole — a feai that has baffled 
 the civilized world for more than three centuries. The President has promised to 
 visit the Polaris on Wednesday next. Yours, etc., 
 
 C. F. Hall. 
 
 A BN0W-B4TTALI. 
 
THE I'OLARIS I'UT INTO COMMISSION. 107 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Polnrix\mi into rommission. — Official Instnirtions to the Commander. — Scien- 
 tific Diieitions. — Letter of Captain Hall's. — List of the Officers and Crew. 
 
 Previous to sailing, the Secretary of the Navy, Hon, George 
 M. Robeson, put the Polaris formally in commission, placing the 
 command of the expedition, the '^vessel, officers, and crew,^^ under 
 the orders of Captain Charles Francis Hall. This point it is well 
 for the reader to observe, as on its subsequent interpretation the 
 welfare and success of the whole expedition turned. 
 
 Captain Hall was ordered to make the ^rst favorable port 
 on the west coast of Greenland, leaving it to his judgment to 
 stop at St, Johns, Newfoundland, if he thought best for any rea- 
 son to do so. It was further ordered that, if the first Greenland 
 port made was south of Holsteinborg, the Polaris should from 
 thence go to the last-named settlement, and from Holsteinborg 
 to the harbor of Goodhavn, on the island of Disco, where the 
 transport -ship, the Congress, was expected to bring him addi- 
 tional stores, and establish a depot for future use. At the two 
 most northern settlements, Upernavik and Tossac, dogs and any 
 other Arctic necessity were to be called for. 
 
 After leaving the last of these Greenland ports, the Secretary 
 directs that the Polaris shall go to Cape Dudley Diggs (about 
 76° N.), " and thence you will make all possible progress, with 
 vessels, boats, and sledges toward the North Pole, using your' 
 own judgment as to the route or routes to be pursued, and the 
 locality for each winter's quarters." The Polaris expedition, 
 having been provisioned for two years and a half, it was ex- 
 pected that Captain Hall would continue his explorations for the 
 whole of that period, unless "the main object of the expedition, 
 viz., attaining the position of the North Pole, be accomplished at 
 an earlier period," in which event it was of course expected and 
 ordered that the Polaris should return to the United States. 
 
 The law of Congress having provided for a Scientific Corps to 
 be attached to the expedition, and also provided that the Nation- 
 
108 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 al Academy of Sciences should prescribe their duties and modes 
 of operation, the Secretary included in his instructions to Captain 
 Hall this clause : " The charge and direction of the scientific op- 
 erations, will be intrusted, under your cominnnd, to Dr. P]mil Bes- 
 sel ; and you will render Dr. Bessel and his assistants all such 
 facilities and aids as may be in your power." 
 
 The Secretary further orders that all objects of natural curios- 
 ity collected by any of the individuals of the company should be 
 carefully preserved, and considered the property of the Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 Again : "You will give special written directions to the sailing 
 and ice master of the expedition, Mr. S. O. Buddington, and to the 
 Chief of the Scientific Department, Dr. E. Bessel, that, in case of 
 your death or disability, * * * they shall consult as to the pro- 
 priety and manner of carrying into further effect the foregoing 
 instructions — which I here urge must, if possible, be done. * * * 
 In any event, however, Mr, Buddington shall, in case of your 
 death or disability, continue as the sailing and ice master, and 
 control and direct the movements of the vessel." 
 
 It was directed that Buddington should consult with Dr. Bes- 
 sel, but the former alone, the commander being dead or disabled, 
 should decide on the propriety of returning to the United States. 
 
 The usual directions are given, "to report at all convenient 
 opportunities to the Navy Department," to erect monuments in 
 proper positions, inclosing records of progress and general con- 
 dition of the party; and to establish caches of provisions, accord- 
 ing to judgment. After passing Cape Dudley Diggs, no ordina- 
 ry mode of communication with the civilized world could be ex- 
 pected. It was therefore ordered that bottles closely sealed, or 
 small copper cylinders, containing a statement of the latitude 
 and longitude, with any other facts of special interest, should be 
 thrown overboard daily, if open water or drifting ice promised to 
 convey them to sea. These papers were provided by the Gov- 
 ernment, printed in different languages, with blanks to be filled 
 in with the occasion of using. 
 
 In addition to the instructions of Secretary Eobeson, Professor 
 Henry, through the former, requested that "one point should be 
 specially urged upon Captain Hall, namely, the determination, 
 with the utmost scientific precision possible, of all his geograph- 
 ical positions, and especially of the ultimate northern limit which 
 
SCIENTIFIC DIRECTIONS. 109 
 
 he attains. The evidence of the genuineness of every determina- 
 tion of this kind should be made apparent beyond all question." 
 
 To as.sist in this being done, the Polaris was liberally supj)lied 
 with all needed instruments of the best quality, as also with 
 charts and books, and whatever else was needed to command 
 success. 
 
 The instructions to the Scientific Corps were prepared by Pro- 
 fessor Joseph Henry, President of the National Academy of Sci- 
 ences, assisted by Professors Baird, Agassiz, Ililgard and Meek, 
 at Washington, and are of the most elaborate description, as will 
 be seen by referring to the Appendix. 
 
 The most prominent point insisted upon was absolute accuracy. 
 It is ordered, say the instructions, " in all cases, that the actual 
 instrumental readings must be recorded, and if any corrections 
 are to be applied, the reason for these corrections must also be re- 
 corded." Again : " The evidence of the genuineness of the obser- 
 vations brought back should be of the most irrefragable charac- 
 ter. No erasures whatever with rubber or knife should be made. 
 When an entry requires correction, the figures or words should 
 be merely crossed by a line, and the correct figures written above." 
 
 As to the subjects committed to the observation and record 
 of the Scientific Corps, we shall merely indicate them in general 
 terms, referring those who desire to make themselves acquainted 
 with the details to the originals in the Appendix. 
 
 The first order relates to the keeping of a full and accurate 
 log -book, of all transactions concerning the expedition; and a 
 journal of similar import, to be filled up daily, when on sledge- 
 expeditions. 
 
 The astronomical observations were to be made four times a 
 day, and each operation repeated three times to guard against 
 mistakes. 
 
 The variations of the compass is to be continually watched and 
 recorded, and on sledge-journeys particular attention to be paid 
 to the dip and relative intensity of the magnetic force; and at 
 winter-quarters, " the absolute horizontal intensity to be deter- 
 mined with the theodolite magnetometer, including the determi- 
 nation of the moment of inertia.*' 
 
 Notes to be taken of the various features of the aurora borealis. 
 Also pendulum experiments, to determine the force of gravity in 
 diflferent latitudes. 
 
no ARCTIC KXrKUIFNCEf]. 
 
 Tides, currents, sea-soundings, bottom-dredging, and the den- 
 sity of 8«'a water in different localities, to be tested. 
 
 Registers of temperature, the pressure of the air, and the j)ro- 
 portion of moisture contained in the latter, are all to be made the 
 subject of careful experiment. 
 
 The velocity of the winds, observations on the clouds, the pre- 
 cipitation of water, the form and weight of hailstones, the char- 
 acter of snow, and any peculiarities of crystallization, all to be 
 noted. 
 
 Electricity in all its multiform developments, the polarization 
 of light, as also optical phenomena, mirage, halos, parhelia, lu- 
 minous arches, and meteors of all kinds, to be looked after. 
 
 Experiments for the detection of ozone in the atmosphere were 
 provided for, by supplying Dr. Bessel with sensitized paper, and 
 with directions how to extemporize the necessary apparatus. 
 
 In natural history and geology, it is only necessary here to ob- 
 .serve that the scientists were expected to improve all opportuni- 
 ties to make collections of specimens, and to take the utmost care 
 so to label and arrange them that no false deductions might be 
 drawn through errors of fact. 
 
 The course and growth of glaciers being of exceptional inter- 
 est receives large notice, and every suggestion is made to induce 
 :i thorough scientific examination of such portions of any as may 
 i>e traversed by the sledge-parties. The late lamented Professor 
 Louis Agassiz furnished the remarks on this point, indicating to 
 Dr. Bessel the great importance of comparative examinations of 
 the Greenland or other Arctic glaciers with the known history 
 of the Alpine rivers of ice. He wisely forbears giving utterance 
 to any dictum on disputed points. He says : " I have purposely 
 avoided all theoretical considerations, and only call attention to 
 xhe facts which it is most important to ascertain, in order to have 
 a statement as unbiased as possible." 
 
 While in Washington previous to sailing, a want of mutual 
 respect was known to exist between Captain Hall and Dr. Bes- 
 sel ; and so far was Dr. Bessel's discourtesy carried, on several 
 occasions, that Captain Hall would have been quite justified in 
 refusing to take him in his company, and calling for a volunteer 
 in his place. 
 
 It had originally been the intention of Captain Hall, after reach- 
 ing the head of BaiSBn Bay, to strike across to the west and sail 
 
LETTKU TO THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVY. HI 
 
 through Jones Sound, and thence to the North Polrxr Sea, which 
 had inspired Sir Edward Belcher with such abject fears; but, 
 after careful consideration and consultation with Arctic experts, 
 he finally concluded to sail as nearly due north as possible 
 through Smith Sound and connecting waters. 
 
 The day before the iVum sailed. Captain Ilall expressed his 
 gratitude, in the following language, for the thorough manner in 
 which the expedition had been fitted out: 
 
 steamer PolarU, Brooklyn Navy Yard, Jane 2S, 1871. 
 
 Sm, — I have the honor to report that the steamer Polaris, selectetl by jou for the 
 expedition toward the North Pole, under my command, is now ready for sea, and 
 will sail to-morrow. 
 
 JJefore leaving p<jrt, I can not forbear expressing my great obligation to you for 
 the intelligent and generous manner in which you have provided for the exjMidition 
 in all resjiects. The ship has been, under your directions, strengthened and pre- 
 pared for the special sen ice upon which she enters in the most approved manner; 
 and is supplied with every appliance to make the expedition a success. 
 
 The officers and crew of the ship are all I could desire, and the provision made for 
 the subsistence and protection of all on Iward is the l^est that could be devised. 
 
 Your generous response to every legitimate request I have made in regard to the 
 ship's outfit demands the expression of my warmest gratitude. The only return 1 
 can make now is the assurance of my determination, with God's blessing, that the 
 expedition shall prove a success, and redound to the honor of our country, and to the 
 credit of your administration. ♦ * * With an abiding faith that the results of the 
 expedition will prove the wisdom of Congress in providing for it, and justify the gen- 
 erous manner in which you have performed the duty assigned you, I am, 
 
 Very respectfully, i ju. obedient 8er\'ant, 
 
 C. F. Hall, 
 Commanding U. S, Xorth Polar Expedition. 
 
 Hon. Geo. M. Rouebon, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 The Polaris sailed from the Brooklyn Navy Yard at seven p.m. 
 of the 29th of June, and made a pleasant run of seventeen hours, 
 and then dropped anchor in New London Harbor at eleven a.m. 
 of the 30th of June. 
 
 The especial object of putting in to New London was to get an 
 assistant engineer,* the one engaged in New York, Wilson, hav- 
 ing deserted. His p!'-^ was supplied by a better man, Mr. 
 Odell, who had served in the United States Navy during the 
 late war. 
 
 The carpenter of the ship had also been taken sick in New 
 York, and had been sent to the hospital just before the Polaris 
 
 * See letter of Captain Hall's in Appendix, p. 453. 
 
112 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 sailed, and it was thought that one might be obtained at New 
 London. V 
 
 From this port Captain Hall also reported the desertion of 
 three other men — a fireman, seaman, and the cook — and the dis- 
 charge of the steward for incapacity. These positions were all 
 refilled at New London, except the carpenter, who recovered, and 
 was subsequently forwarded by the tender Congress. 
 
 The following is the corrected muster-roll, as made out by Cap- 
 tain Hall, on July 2, and forwarded by him to the Secretary of 
 the Navy : 
 
 C. F. Ilall Commander. 
 
 Sidney (). Huddington Sailing and Ice Master, 
 
 George E. Tyson Assistant Navigator. 
 
 H. C. Chester First Mate. 
 
 William Morton Second Mate. 
 
 Emil .Sthuman Chief Engineer. 
 
 Alvin A. (Well Assistant Engineer. 
 
 Walter F. Campbell Fireman. 
 
 John W. Booth " 
 
 John Ilerron Steward. 
 
 William Jackson Cook. 
 
 Nathan J, Coffin. Carjjenter. 
 
 Seamen. 
 
 Herman Sieman. Joseph B. Mauch. 
 
 Frederick Anthing. G. W. Lindquist. 
 
 J. W. C. Kruger. > I'eter Johnson. 
 
 Henry Hobby. Frederick Jamka. 
 
 Willlani Lindermann. Noah Hays. 
 
 Emil Bessel Surgeon and Chief of Scientific Corps. 
 
 R. W. I). Bryan Astronomer and Chaplain, 
 
 Fretlerick Meyers Meteorologist. 
 
 Esquimaux. 
 
 Joe Interpreter and General Assistant. 
 
 Hannah 
 
 Tuncy Child. 
 
 ^ ( Hans Christian Dog-driver, Hunter, and Servant. 
 
 fc^ \ Wife of Hans 
 
 « ••: / Aiigustina Child. 
 
 I H J Tobias. 
 ( Succi 
 
 u 
 
BlUGUAi'UlC^VL SKETCH OF CAl'TAiN HALL. HJJ 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF CAPTAIN HALL. 
 
 Nativity and early Life of Charles Francis Hall. — Leaves liis native State of New 
 Hampshire and settles in Ohio. — Takes to Journulistn. — Attracted by Arctic Lit- 
 erature. — Unsucces^;iul litfbrt to join M'Cliiitock. — Sails for the Arctic Regions in 
 the (leorge Henri/, of New London. — The Tender Rescue and the Expedition Bout 
 lost in a Storm. — He explores Frobisher Bay and ('ountess of Warwick Sound. — 
 Collects lielics of Franklin's Expedition. — Returns to the United States, — His 
 Theories regarding the Franklin Exj)edition. — Sails for the North, 1804, in the 
 Bark Monlicello. — His Discoveries. — Skeletons of Franklins Men scattered over 
 King William Land. — Annual Reports. — His Life with the Esquimaux. — Return 
 to the United States. — Physical Apjiearance. — Mental Traits. — In the Innuit Land 
 he did as the Innuits do. — Persevering Efforts to organize the North Polar F>xpe- 
 dition. — President Grant personally interested. — "That Historical Flag." — How 
 he would know when he got to the Pole. — His Premosiitions. — His last Dispatch. 
 
 Charles Francis Hall, though long a resident of Ohio, was 
 born in the township of Rochester, in the State of New Hamp- 
 shire, in the year 1821, His early life was far from luxurious, 
 though not lacking in the ordinary comforts of country homes. 
 He was early inured to work, and received only the usual com- 
 mon-school education of the period, which was far more limited 
 then than now. 
 
 But a lad fond of reading will readily make amends for the 
 limitation of school facilities, and young Hall was omnivorous in 
 this respect, so that not only the books in his own family but 
 those of his friends and neighbors were sought out, borrowed, 
 and read. He thus became pos.sessed of a curious conglomeration 
 of information, over which he brooded, without, it would seem, 
 any proper direction as to systematic study. And thus he plod- 
 ded his way along, like many another dreamy lad, whose heart 
 and aim is all beyond, and outside of, his every-day occupations. 
 
 As his school-days ended the unattractive labor of a black- 
 smith's shop opened before him; and though not much to his taste, 
 this heavy work assisted materially in developing his muscles and 
 hardening his constitution, thus indirectly helping to fit him for 
 the arduous adventures of his later years. 
 
 8 
 
114 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 
 0UABLE8 FBANOIB UALL. 
 
 While yet a young man, he left his native place, and with it 
 the blaclvsmith's trade. Setting his face westward, after some 
 experiments elsewhere, he settled in Cincinnati. Here he made 
 arrangements to learn the seal engraving, and in this business he 
 continued for some years ; but he had not yet found his forte. 
 This sort of work, though more artistic than shoeing horses or 
 welding iron, did not satisfy him. 
 
 He took to journalism, and published at Cincinnati, first the 
 
ATTRACTED BY AKCTIC LITERATURE. 115 
 
 Occasional, and subsequently the Daily Penny Press; and both 
 of these periodicals amply prove that, though Captain Hall was 
 not a college graduate nor a professed scientist, he was very far 
 from being an ignorant man. lie was well-read, intelligent, 
 thoughtful, and a persevering student of whatever he undertook 
 to make himself acquainted with. 
 
 For nearly ten years before he sailed on his first Arctic voyage 
 he had been an enthusiastic reader of Arctic literature. Natu- 
 rally attracted by the subject, which has fascinated so many brill- 
 iant minds, he searched out, read up, and carefully studied every 
 thing relating to Polar affairs which he could get hold of; and 
 by the time that England and the United States were fully 
 awakened to the necessity of sending relieving parties to search 
 for Sir John Franklin, young Ilall was fully aroused, eager and 
 anxious to join in the search. The first Grinnell Expedition 
 especially excited his enthusiasm, but no way then appeared 
 open to him by which he could join it. Disappointed in that, he 
 made another unsuccessful effort to go out with M'Clintock, in 
 1857. 
 
 At this time his mind was so unsettled between his desire to 
 go on a Polar expedition and the necessary claims of his family 
 — for he had married in Cincinnati — that his business, never very 
 profitable, became more and more embarrassed. To his eye, the 
 Polar regions had all the attraction of a terrestrial paradise ; its 
 glistening icebergs and snow-clad plains were as enchanting to 
 his imagination as the fairy-tales of younger days ; and, above 
 all, he had that impression of fatalism, that inspiration of a per- 
 sonal mission, which looked to some of his friends like a mania, 
 but which was a convincing voice to him that success was possi- 
 ble, and that he was the person to succeed. 
 
 But he had no money, no means whatever of fitting up a pri- 
 vate expedition, no influence at Washington, at that time, by 
 which he might hope to attain his purpose, nor, after De Haven's 
 return, did the Government appear inclined to invest further in 
 that direction. But here and there our enthusiast gained friends ; 
 touched the heart of one man by his pictures of some stray wan- 
 derer of that fated expedition dragging out an isolated and half- 
 savage existence among the Esquimaux; interested the imagina- 
 tion of another by narrations of the wonderful scenes which had 
 met the wondering gaze of preceding explorers; reached even 
 
116 ARCTIC EXl'EUIENCES. 
 
 to the pockets of others, who believed that such devotion would 
 accomplish something, if the right start was given ; and offers of 
 aid at last cheered and encouraged him to hope that his heart's 
 desire might yet be fulfilled. • 
 
 But it was not until the year 1860 that he was at last enabled 
 to put his long-cherished plans in operation. In pursuit of in- 
 formation among practical men, who knew the modes of life 
 among the Esquimaux, and the resources for living on the shores 
 north of Hudson Bay, and north and west of Cumberland 
 Sound, Captain Hall visited New London, Connecticut. Here 
 he was fortunately introduced to the firm of Williams & Haven, 
 who generously tendered him a free passage in their bark, the 
 George Henry, to which was* attached as tender the famous Res- 
 cue, a schooner once known as the Anaret, and which had been 
 consort to the Advance in 1850-51, in the De Haven Arctic ex- 
 pedition. 
 
 A fund was raised by his friends in New York, Cincinnati, ; 
 New London, and elsewhere, to provide the necessary outfit; and 
 on the 29th of May, 1860, he had the inexpressible pleasure of 
 at last finding himself sailing toward the goal of all his hopes. 
 
 An "expedition boat," a fine large sail-boat, had been express- 
 ly built for him, and in this he expected, by portage and other- 
 wise, to reach King William Land, to prosecute his researches 
 in shallow waters which the bark could not enter, and farther to 
 the north and west than the whaler was destined to go. 
 
 He reached Cyrus Field Bay without special incident, and 
 made some interesting trips in his expedition boat; but his hopes 
 were fearfully dashed by its wreck and entire loss, during a vio- 
 lent storm, which occurred on the 27th of September, at which 
 time the Oeorge Henry was endangered, and the Rescue went 
 ashore and became a total loss. Captain Ty^on, then master of 
 the brig Qeorgiana, was involved in the same storm, and, though 
 for some time expecting the certain destruction of liis own ves- 
 sel, he sent a portion of his crew to try and save Hall's precious 
 expedition boat; but their efforts were ineffectual. Though sadly 
 disappointed by the loss, it did not wholly dishearten him. He 
 could not do as he had predetermined, but he decided to stay and 
 do what he could. His aim had been to proceed north and west 
 in search of possible survivors of the Franlilin expedition, through 
 the connecting waters north and west of Fox Channel ; but the 
 
FIRST VISIT TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 117 
 
 loss of the Rescue and his expedition boat completely frustrated 
 this intention. He was for a moment cheered by the promise of 
 a stout whale-boat by old Captain Parker, of the British whaler 
 True Love^ but ficcident prevented his receiving it. He then re- 
 solved to make what explorations he could with dog-sledgoa, and 
 subsequently, with the aid of these and an "old, rotten, leaky, 
 and ice-beaten boat" obtained from the George Ilenry^ made that 
 thorough examination of both shores and the terminus of Fro- 
 bishcr Bay and Countess of Warwick Sound which has since be- 
 come a part of Arctic history. The account of the reliquiae be- 
 longing to the visits of that ancient voyager, collected and brought 
 by Captain Hall from that region, is fully detailed in his graphic 
 and entertaining work entitled "Arctic liesearches." 
 
 On this expedition he wag absent two years and a half, return- 
 ing with accurate charts, and much other valuable information 
 regarding the inhabitants and resources of the country. His 
 crowning geographical discovery on this trip was that of proving 
 the water named by Frobisher as a strait, and which had been so 
 designated on the maps for two hundred and eighty-four years, to 
 be a bay. But still mindful of his original object, Captain Hall 
 had no sooner returned to the United States, than he set about 
 planning another journey to the north-west. He had brought 
 home with him two of the natives, Ebierbing and Tookoolito — the 
 "Joe" and "Hannah " of the Polaris Expedition. These Esqui- 
 maux, orlnnuits, as they prefer to call themselves, had been taken 
 to England in 1858; and the woman especially had acquired 
 many of the habits of civilization, spoke sufficiently good English 
 to act as an interpreter, and could read a little. "Joe" was an 
 excellent pilot, and could also speak some English. 
 
 From what Captain Hall had learned from the natives during 
 his sojourn and explorations around Frobisher Bay, he had be- 
 come fully convinced that the Esquimaux held the secret of the 
 fate ^ Sir John Franklin's company, and that by living with 
 them .)ng enough to gain their confidence he should be able to 
 extract all the truth from them. 
 
 These ideas were so inwrought in his mind that he determined 
 to return to the Arctic regions as soon as a new outfit could be 
 secured, and to remain there expatriated for half a decade; to 
 live with and among the natives, making himself completely one 
 of them — all with the benevolent hope that he might be able to 
 
118 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 m^- iii%,.,,. 
 
 iOe, UANNAU, AMD OUILU. 
 
 tiiid. ijlieve, and bring back to civilization some possible sur- 
 vivor of the lost expedition. 
 
 All of his old and many new friends came forward to his sup- 
 port. The winter of 1863-64 was principally spent by him in 
 lecturing, writing, and visiting where he could create or renew 
 an interest in his new expedition. 
 
 New London again furnished him a passage. This time it 
 was made in the bark Monticello, of which Richard W. Chappel 
 was agent. In the log-book we find the following entries: 
 
HALLS DISCOVERIKS. 119 
 
 "■June .30, 1804. The Arctic expedition: Mr. Hull and his two natives take pas- 
 sage for Repulse Bay." [The two natives were Joe and Hannah.— /;"</.] 
 
 •Mu^. 21. Anchored close to Dqjot Island, and landed Hall's expedition. 
 
 ''Dec. 14. Two sledges, with eight natives on one, and Mr. Hall's Joe and a white 
 man on the other, came to the ship and brought 225 lbs. of deer and musk-ox meat 
 and some suits of native clothing ; they were five days coming. They also brought 
 five ox, six bear, and ten deer skins. Mr. Hall sends a letter saying he has heard of 
 six men living with Esquimaux north of Repulse Buy. He will visit the ship in 
 January. Mi" below zero. 
 
 '■'■Dec. 19. Natives returned to Mr. Hall. Will come again at full moon. 
 
 "■Jan. 13, 1865. Mr. Hall and Esquimaux, seventeen in number, came to the ship. 
 Five days on their journey down. Mr. Hall is not looking verj- well, but I bclie\e 
 he is enjoying good health. 
 
 '■'■Feb. 10. Mr. Hall, two natives, and one woman left for their homes at the north. 
 Three hearty cheers from ship's company, and all the good wishes that could be ex- 
 pressed for his welfare. I think it will be doubtful if he will be able to reach Re- 
 pulse Bay before midsummer, as the natives don't want to get there before July or 
 August. Think Mr. Hall will not go without them. 
 
 "March 22. Mr. Hall sent a dog-team to the ship, with 600 lbs. of ox-meat, to 
 divide among the ships. 
 
 "March 25. Albert and Jack left f:,i Mr. Hall. Took a boat from the Antelope 
 [Captain Tyson] for Hall. Albert loath to leave, as he does not know when he 
 would see ships again, as he was going tt* travel with Hall. " 
 
 hall's discoveries. 
 
 Ilall pursued his investigations in pursuit of information re- 
 garding Franklin's party with unsparing devotion and great suc- 
 cess. Ke gathered, from evidence collected among the natives, 
 that one of Franklin's vessels had actually made the North-west 
 Pas.sage while yet five living men remained on board ; also that, 
 when abandoned by the crew, the vessel had been left in perfect 
 order, and was found by the Esquimaux, in the spring of 1849, 
 near O'Reilly Island, lat. 68° 30' N., long. 99° 8' W., where it had 
 been frozen in. 
 
 Captain Hall said that the skeletons of Franklin's men were 
 scattered over King William Land; and he explains that the 
 Esquimaux of that region are very different in character and dis- 
 position from those of Repulse Bay; and that, with one or two ex- 
 ceptions, they had refused to render the lost explorers any as- 
 sistance, though they were well able (having enough food them- 
 selves) to have saved their lives; but instead of aiding them, not 
 only allowed them to perish, but also plundered them of every 
 thing they could make use of, and even suffered their dogs to 
 eat them. He also heard and believed the native statement that 
 
120 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Bkl.IOS OP FBANKLIN 8 KXl-KIIITION. 
 
 some of Franklin's men had eaten their companions. Captain 
 Hall believed also that the original records of the Erehus and 
 Terror are still in existence, and can probably still be found in a 
 vault eastward and inland from Cape Victory. He was unable 
 to reach that point himself, on account of a war which was then 
 in progress between the native tribes of that region. 
 
 During the five years which Captain Hall spent in these ex- 
 plorations, he made no definite attempt at purely Polar discov- 
 
HALL'S LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. 121 
 
 eries, though incidentally making many.* He did not go above 
 70° N. ; but he searched very thoroughly Melville Peninsula, 
 Fury and Ilecla straits, Pelly Bay, Boothia Peninsula and Gulf, 
 and part of King William Land, connecting these with his Fro- 
 bisher Bay exploration;?. He procured from the natives as many 
 as one hundred and fifty relies of the Franklin Expedition, con- 
 sisting of articles which had belonged either to the officers or 
 ships of the lost expedition, and, with full records of his sojourn 
 and journeys in the Innuit land, returned to the United States 
 September 1, 1869. 
 
 CAPTAIN hall's ANNUAL REPORTS. 
 
 At various times, through the courtesy of whaling captains, 
 Captain Hall sent home news of his progress. In 1865 he had 
 learned that Captain Crozier of the Terror, with Parry, Lyon, and 
 one other whose name he could not obtain, had survived the oth- 
 ers, who earlier succumbed to cold and starvation ; and that the 
 three latter lived for some time on the flesh of their dead com- 
 rades. One Innuit (Hall uses this word to express Esquimaux, as 
 generally understood) had sheltered and fed one of the Franklin 
 party until he died. The evidence gathered went to prove that 
 Crozier and one other was alive in the fall of 1864. It was also 
 affirmed by the natives that Franklin's men had engaged in a 
 battle with a tribe of Indians — not Esquimaux — near the estuary 
 of Great Fish Eiver; that none of the whites were killed, but 
 many of the Indians; and that after this Captain Crozier and two 
 others had gone to the south-west by land, to try and get to Fort 
 Churchill or York Factory, and that then they had food, and ei- 
 ther skin or rubber boats. 
 
 In the fall of 1866, Captain Hall wintered on Repulse Bay : 
 and during the winter of 1866-67 he made a six weeks' journey 
 with dog-sledges to the north-west, mainly to secure an ampje 
 supply of dogs for the next season. He took with him on this 
 journey five white men — selected from the crews of whalers 
 then lying at Repulse Bay— the .v.o natives, Joe and Hannah, 
 and thirty dogs. 
 
 On this occasion he met a small hostile tribe, but finally con- 
 ciliated them by presents of old knives and tin pans, and re- 
 
 * See letter to Judge Daly, in Appendix, p. 424. 
 
122 AUCTIC EXrEKIKNfES. 
 
 ceived in return forty dogs. Ue experienced very cold weather, 
 and many hardships and inconveniences, but all kept their health 
 through the jourr)ey. These nanves said that some of the white 
 men had been with them, and one had died, and was carefully 
 buried. 
 
 On his return to Repulse Bay, Captain Hall expressed himself 
 so certain of finding some of Franklin's party still alive, that he 
 offered five hundred dollars in gold to each white man who 
 would accompany him in the search during the season of 
 1867-68. Five seamen from the whaling fleet then in harbor 
 offered to go, and, commencing their engagement in August, em- 
 ployed about two months in hunting, so as to secure a stock of 
 provisions f ,r their journey, while awaiting the hardening of 
 the snow until it was fit for sledging. Captain Ilall seemed to 
 feel the pressure of a special call in this direction. To the cap- 
 tains in Repulse Bay he frequently remarked, "If I die, I shall 
 die doing my duty." 
 
 In 1868, Captain Hall had procured additional evidence that 
 Captain Crozier and one man had survived until 1864, and heard 
 of others in King William Land ; but he was not made happy 
 by finding any white man alive who had belonged to that unfor- 
 tunate company. Convinced at last of the fact that there were 
 no survivors to rescue. Captain Ilall returned to the United 
 States in the bark Aiisel Gibbs,* of New Bedford, with the full 
 determination to secure a vessel and outfit to go in search of that 
 geographical point which has so long eluded the efforts of Arctic 
 adventurers, the North Pole. 
 
 PHYSICAL APPEARANCE. 
 
 Physically Captain Ilall was well adapted for his chosen work. 
 He was a well-proportioned, powerfully built man, about five feet 
 eight inches in height, muscular rather than stout, though weigh- 
 ing not far from two hundred pounds. Life and vigor seemed 
 inseparable from the thought of him. His head was well shaped, 
 large, and covered with a profusion of wavy, brown hair; the 
 beard also was thick and heavy, evincing utill more of an inclina- 
 tion to curl. A phrenologist would have admired the ample de- 
 
 * The Ansel Gibbs was lost on the 19th of October, 1872, near Marble Island, 
 her crew being forced to winter on shore, and were not rescued until August of 1873. 
 
MENTAL TUAITS. 123 
 
 velopment of the coronal and temporal regions, and the broad, 
 
 ample, reflective forehead, while a poet would have found in his 
 
 expressive blue eye the very counterpart of the good knight 
 
 Arthur, 
 
 "Of the 
 Frank and azure eyes," 
 
 His general expression was pleasant, but somewhat dreamy with- 
 al, when in repose, but kindling into a brilliant enthusiasm when 
 his favorite topics were discussed ; but possibly a skilled physi- 
 ognomist would have descried too much of a poetical tempera- 
 ment in our Polar knight-errant, to have had much faith in him 
 as a discriminator of, or successful commander of men. 
 
 MENTAL TRAITS. 
 
 Much — far too much — has been said in disparagement of Cap- 
 tain Ilall, on account of his lack of what is technically called a 
 '' liberal education." lie had all the education which was needed 
 to have carried him to the end of his enterprise, had he not been 
 thwarted by the cowardice of one, and the jealousy of others. 
 One of the most intelligent and generous friends of Arctic re- 
 search, who for years befriended Captain Hall, has assured the 
 writer "that Hall knew 'Bowditch's Navigator' by heart — ev- 
 ery line of it, and was perfectly competent to navigate a vessel ;" 
 while another friend of many years' intimacy, and perfectly com- 
 petent of judging, writing to the Cincinnati Commercial {OcUih^r 
 16, 1871), says, "Self-taught, to a considerable extent, as was 
 Franklin, nevertheless Hall excels in the exactness and precision 
 of his field-work, in the determining of latitude and longitude, 
 and in his careful, conscientious record of magnetic and astro- 
 nomical observations ; for these, as well as for his accurate and 
 reliable charting out of coast-lines. Hall has been complimented 
 by the British Admiralty, and his work has stood the severest 
 tests of our own Coast Survey Office, and of the Smithsonian In- 
 stitute." 
 
 If Hall had not the advantage of a severe and systematic train- 
 ing in mathematics or science, he had at least thoroughly fitted 
 himself for the work he had set himself to do. He did not pre- 
 tend to be a scientific naturalist, but he was thoroughly compe- 
 tent to make and record geographical discoveries, and that was 
 the object of the Polaris expedition ; all else should have been 
 
124 AKCTIC EXI'KRIENCKS. 
 
 subordinate to that. He was, despite his temperament, energetic, 
 persevering, and courageous, and, above all, unselfish. The ex- 
 ten*, to which he was able to overlook the insolence and imperti- 
 nence of those who owed him duty and allegiance is something 
 marvelous to consider. Indeed, he carried this too far. Had he 
 dealt more sternly with the beginnings of insubordination, we 
 might have had a fi r different story to tell ; but every other feel- 
 ing and sentiment seemed swallowed up, in the absorbing desire 
 to get north, and it is somewhat difficult to realize how, for in- 
 stance, he could, under the circumstances, have used such lan- 
 guage as the following, which he did on the occasion of a public 
 reception given him by the Geographical Society of New York: 
 " I have chosen my own men — men that will stand by me through 
 thick and thin. Though we may be surrounded by innumera- 
 ble icebergs, and though our vessel may be crushed like an egg- 
 shell, I believe they will stand by me to the last.'' Here, certain- 
 ly, was either a sad lack of discrimination, or a wonderful power 
 of ignoring disagreeable facts when their recognition threatened 
 to interfere with the progress of the expedition. 
 
 One pleasant feature of Captain Hall's character was his ever- 
 abounding gratitude. His heart overflowed toward those who 
 assisted him in any way, even the most trifling. Words seemed 
 all too tame to express his sense of obligation to those who had 
 forwarded his Arctic exploration schemes; and mingled with this 
 recognition of friendly human help, was the ever-present senti- 
 ment of gratitude to God that he had been permitted to do some- 
 thing toward elucidating the fate of Franklin's expedition, and 
 to add to the geographical knowledge of the Polar regions. 
 
 During the period of his stay in the land of the Innuits, Captain 
 Hall had become so habituated to the usages of that people that 
 he bad actually learned to enjoy his residence among them. He 
 liked them, believed in them, and thought them more intelligent 
 and trustworthy than most Arctic travelers are willing to con- 
 cede. The truth is, that they trusted and believed in him more 
 than other travelers had permitted them to do, and hence the 
 feeling of trust and confidence became reciprocal. He learned to 
 like the repulsive food they live upon ; fasting, when it was 
 scarce, with the sang froid of "one to the manner born," and rel- 
 ishing the blubber, when it came, with the best of them. 
 
 It will thus be seen that the experience of Captain Hall in the 
 
I'KItSKVKUINC KFFOUTS. 125 
 
 Arctic regions jusufied the Lopes of his friends and the confi- 
 dence of Government in intrusting him with the command of the 
 Polaris expedition, lie was thoroughly acclimated, was well 
 known, and had friends among the natives at many stations, par- 
 ticularly on the western bays and shores of Davis Strait and Baf- 
 fin Bay ; having lived with them in their " igloos," or snow huts, 
 in winter, travt-led with tliem on their dog-sledges, shared their 
 summer tents, and used, when necessary, their "oomiaks," or 
 family boats. In the " Innuit land he did as the Innuits did." 
 
 After his return, in September, 1869, until the spring of 1871, 
 Captain llaL' was indefatigable in his endeavors to enlist public 
 sympathy, and Congressional and other aid, for his new enter- 
 prise. In his previous voyages private parties had furnished, by 
 subscription and donations, both vessels and outfit ; but now the 
 national aid was to be secured, the sympathy of the Government' 
 enlisted. IJ'therto the United States had not officially done 
 much in the way of Arctic explorations. When the liberality 
 of Mr. Henry Grinnell had presented two vessels ready furnished 
 for an Arctic voyage, the Navy Department ordered to the com- 
 mand Lieutenants De Haven and Griffith, to officer the Advance 
 and Bescne. The second, under the auspices of the United States, 
 and this wholly at the national expense, was the relief searching 
 expedition under Lieutenant Ilartstene, who went to the aid of 
 Dr. Kane, and brought him back. The third is that which we 
 have under consideration. Others wholly American, though un- 
 aided by the National Government, will be found recorded else- 
 where. The Polaris expedition may truly be described as Captain 
 Hall's, in its inception as well as execution ; fo;, though the ex- 
 pense was borne wholly by the L^nited State?, and its late com- 
 mander was most faithfully assisted by devoted and energetic 
 friends, yet had it not been for the untiring perseverance with 
 which the late commander of the Polaris canvassed the country., 
 lecturing, writing, and by personal interviews with intelligent men 
 of all classes who could by any possibility bring influence to bear 
 in forwarding his plans, the expedition would never have sailed. 
 
 To those who saw him in Washington during the winter of 
 1869-70, he appeared like the embodiment of a single idea, and 
 that idea was how to get aid for his projected Polar expedition. 
 Here, fortunately, as in all large cities, there are always found 
 men of brains and comprehensive intellecti^, to whom appeals of 
 
126 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 this nature come with the certainty of a sympathetic response. 
 It is not always so in country places. Great men may be born in 
 the rural districts, but they are almost certain to gravitate to cities. 
 
 Among those most ready to listen to the Arctic enthusiast — 
 for such Captain Hall was, nor did he take any pains to conceal 
 the fact — were such men as Senator Sumner, of Massachusetts ; 
 Sherman, of Ohio; Fenton, of New York; and others of that 
 stamp, some of whom we may have occasion to refer to hereafter. 
 The I*resident, also, was personally interested in the project, and 
 favorable to it; but though Senators and Representatives may 
 feel great sympathy with many appeals and plans which come 
 before them, they do not always consider themselves at perfect 
 liberty to vote appropriations of the public money for carrying 
 them out. A certain respect is usually paid to the supposed 
 wishes and opinions of constituents. Hence it was no light task 
 for Captain Hall and his immediate coadjutors to secure the vote 
 of $50,000, which was finally granted by Congress for the outfit 
 of the expedition. 
 
 A few days previous to the sailing of the Polaris expedition, 
 the "American Geographical Society " of New York tendered a 
 public reception to Captain Hall and his officers. On this occa- 
 sion Mr. Henry Grinnell presented to Captain Hall the historic- 
 al flag which, in 1838, Lieutenant Wilkes, of the United States 
 Navy, had borne nearer to the South Pole than any American 
 flag had ever been before. This flag had also gathered interest 
 in every fold by subsequently being carried by Lieutenant De 
 Haven to a higher northern latitude than any flag had ever been; 
 next it passed into the hands of Dr. Kane, who bore it, still on- 
 ward and upward, beyond l)c Haven'r, highest ; and then Dr. L 
 L Haye.s, *"mid snow and ic?, ' mentally, if not vocally, shouting 
 " Excelsior," pitched it thirty-'.?' :n miles nearer the pole than 
 lis lamented predecessor had t'ttiined. It was again exhibited at 
 the " reception given by the Geogiaphical Society of New York to 
 the officers and crew of the Polaris''^ on the eve of Feb. 16, 1874. 
 
 Captain Hall, in accepting this already glorified bunting, said he 
 "believed that this flag, in the spring of 1872, would float over 
 a new world, in which the North Pole star is its crowning jewel." 
 In continuing his remarks, he declared that he did not expect 
 during the first winter to reach above 80° N., and from thence in 
 the spring to make sledge-journeys toward the pole. 
 
HALL'S ADVENTUROUS SPIRIT, 127 
 
 Anticipating the criticism which some astronomers have made, 
 " that he would not know when he got to the pole, even if he 
 should really reach it," Captain Hall remarked: "On reaching 
 that point called the North Pole, the north star will be directly 
 overhead. Without an instrument, with merely the eye, a man 
 can define his position when there. Some astronomers tell me I 
 will find a difficulty in determining my position. It will be the 
 easiest thing in the world. Suppose I arrive at the North Pole, 
 and the sun has descended. Suppose there is an island at the 
 North Pole ; around it is the sea. I see a star upon the horizon. 
 If I were to remain a thousand years at the pole, that star will 
 remain on the horizon without varying one iota in height. Then, 
 again, when I am at the pole, on the 23d of June I take the lat- 
 itude of the sun ; just 23^° high at one, and all hours. Five days 
 before the 24th of June, and five days after, with the finest in- 
 struments we have, you can not determine one iota of change. 
 Therefore you will see that it is the easiest thing in the world to 
 determine when you arrive at the North Pole. The phenomena 
 displayed there will be deeply interesting, provided there is land 
 there; and I am satisfied, from the traditions I have learned from 
 the Esquimaux, that I will find land there." 
 
 Had Hall reached the pole, it would be safe to say he would 
 have been the happiest man alive. His enthusiasm was bound- 
 less; this was his spirit, as expressed in his address: "Many who 
 have written to me, or who have appeared to me personally, think 
 that I am of an adventurous spirit and of bold heart to attempt 
 to go to the North Pole. Not so. It does not require that heart 
 which they suppose I have got. The Arctic region in my home. 
 I love it dearly — its storms, its winds, its glaciers, its icebergs ; 
 and when I am among them, it seems as if I were in an earthly 
 heaven, or a heavenly earth !" 
 
 It was indeed a cruel fate which baffled and prevented the ex- 
 ecution of the cherished hopes of such an exuberant spirit as this. 
 
 CAPTAIN hall's PREMONITIONS. 
 
 Captain Hall had made voluminous notes of his second expe- 
 dition, 1864-69 ; but these records have not yet been published ; 
 he was too busy, during his short stay at home, to write them up, 
 being occupied the whole time in securing the necessary influence 
 and means of organizing the Polaris expedition. But the man- 
 
128 ' AKCTK: EXrEKlENCES. 
 
 uscript notes of his "Franklin Search" journey he took with him 
 on board of the Polari.s, intending to prepare them for publication ; 
 but some sad premonition of evil — 
 
 " A strange and weird and phantom-seeming thing, 
 Which stood dim outlined in a sable sfiroiid, 
 Though shapeless, as in noonday hangs a cloud " — 
 
 hovered before him, hinting at the insecurity of the fate which 
 might be his; and he left these valuable papers with the inspec- 
 tor-general of North Greenland, Mr. Karrup Smith, at Disco. 
 
 A very fortunate providential monition, it would seem, as, had 
 he taken them with him, they would probably have gone down 
 in the foundered Polaris. It was that he might have time to pre- 
 pare these records for publication that he sought the assistance 
 of Mr. Meyers in writing up the journal of the day; but as Mr. 
 Meyers refused his aid. Captain Hall foresaw that he must post- 
 pone his literary work ; and this was one of the things which 
 seriously annoyed and troubled him. The account of his last '11- 
 ness and death will be found in its appropriate place in Capta.u 
 Tyson's journal, as part of the history of the Polaris expedition,' 
 
 The last dispatch which Captain Hall indited for transmission 
 to the Secretary of the Navy (a fac-simile of a portion is given be- 
 low) was written at lat. 82° '6' N., at Cape Brevoort, and a copy 
 of it was placed in a copper cylinder, and left there, protected by 
 a covering of stones. It will be found entire in the Appendix. 
 
 ej^A 
 
 FAO-BIMILE OF OAITAIN UALL 8 WBITIMO. 
 
THE CHIEF OF THE SCIENTIFIC CORPS. 
 
 129 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Dr, Emil Bessel. — Sergeant Frederick Meyers. — Mr. R. W. D. Bryan. — Sidney O. 
 Biiddington. — Hubbard C. Chester. — Emil Schuman. — William Morton.- -Letter 
 of ("a|)tiiin Hall's. — The Polaris sails. — Disaffection on Board. — Meets the Swed- 
 ish Exploring Expedition. — Favorable condition of the Ice. — United States Ship 
 Congress arrives at Disco with Supplies for the Polaris. — Insubordination on Board. 
 — Captain Hall's Idiosyncrasy. — He "bids Adieu to the Civilized World," 
 
 Dr. Emil Bessel, the chief of the Scientific Corps, was a na- 
 tive of Germany. Though a comparatively young man, he had 
 already established a reputation in his native country, lie was a 
 
 nn. KMIL IlKHHBT.. 
 
 graduate of the famous university of Heidelberg. His researches 
 in zoology and entomology had brought him into close friendly 
 
 9 
 
130 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 SIDNEY O. BCVDINOTOIC. 
 
 relations with Dr. August Peterrnan, of Gotha, who appointed 
 him as scientist on board the Albert, belonging to M. llosenthal, 
 a walrus-hunter, which sailed in the year 1869 to the north of 
 Spitzbergen. lie was considered an accomplished surgeon and 
 an enthusiastic naturalist, and was also esteemed in every way in- 
 tellectually fit for the position. 
 
 In person he was slight, somewhat delicately built, and of quick, 
 nervous temperament. The shape of the head indicated predomi- 
 nant mentality, while the features were regular and pleasing in 
 their contour; hair and beard dark and heavy, with a bright, 
 dark eye, which was susceptible of very varied expression, com- 
 pleted the tniit ensemble of what would pass for a handsome man, 
 built on rather too small a scale. 
 
 Mr. Frederick Meyers, the meteorologist, was a native of 
 Prussia, and a sergeant of the United States Signal Corps, estab- 
 lished in Washington. He had received a thorough education, 
 and was considered especially fitted for the position to which he 
 was appointed. 
 
PERSONNEL OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 131 
 
 HUBUABD O. 0UE8TBB. 
 
 Mr. R. W. I). Bryan, astronomer and chaplain to the expedi- 
 tion, was a young man of very superior talents, a graduate of 
 Lafayette College, in Easton, Pennsylvania. 
 
 Sidney 0. Buddington, sailing-master, was a native of Gro- 
 ton, Connecticut, and had been captain of various whalers for 
 over twenty years. lie was familiar with the perils of ice navi- 
 gation, and was generally esteemed a capable navigator. 
 
 IIUBBART) C. Chester, first mate, is a native of Noank, Con- 
 necticut, and made a good officer. 
 
 Emil Schuman, the chief engineer, was a German, regularly 
 educated for his profession, and a draughtsman of considerable 
 skill. 
 
 William Morton, second mate, has spent most of his life at 
 sea, having served thirty years in the United States Navy as yeo- 
 man, and having made at least one memorable Arctic voyage 
 with Kane; on which occasion he crossed the great Humboldt 
 Glacier in company with the native Hans, and, looking out upon 
 the waters since visited by the Polaris, thought he had discover- 
 
132 
 
 ARCTIC exi'p:riences. 
 
 KMIL HOMUMAN. 
 
 ed the Polar Sea. lie was an efficient helper of Kane's ; and 
 though he made his Arctic reputation upon a visual mistake, in 
 that ho has good company; nor does it detract from his faithful 
 service to Kane and Hall. He is a native of Ireland, but has re- 
 sided for many years in Jersey City, in the State of New Jersey. 
 Just before sailing, Captain Hall addressed the following letter 
 to a friend on whom he greatly relied : 
 
 Left New London Harbor, 4 a.m. this day, 
 July 3, 1871. 
 
 On board the PnlarU, now Btopped to let off the pilot. 
 This my last letter. 
 
 My deab Friend, —Inclosed please find a document that will explain itself. I 
 wish you to see tlie Secretary of the Navy in person, and have all done for Captain 
 Tyson that can be done. Try and have a position given him such as will command 
 a commission. In proof that Captain Buddington is anxious to have all done that 
 can be for our old friend, he will sign this letter with me, which will have an earnest- 
 ness that can not be better expressed. 
 
 To Captain Tyson I have paid $ in advance out of my own pocket. * * * 
 
 Government now allots me f per month for my family ; I ask if I am to pay 
 
 Captain Tyson for his valuable services. * * * 
 
 I have neglected to report to Governmer.t that James M. Buddington, of Pequan- 
 
THE POLARIS SAILS. 
 
 133 
 
 WILLIAM MOUTON. 
 
 nock, New London, Conn., will be ice-pilot to the transport to Disco, Greenland, for 
 
 f per month. Much more I will soon write you, my noble and attentive friend ; 
 
 but now I cease my incoherent, hasty work. 
 
 Do all you can for Tyson. Let as good a position as possible be given. ♦ * * 
 The ship's company is now of the best material. Glorious is the prospect of the fu- 
 ture. C. F. Hall.* 
 
 The Polaris left New London at 4 p.m., on the 3d of July, and 
 proceeded without especial incident, except a severe storm, which 
 occurred on the evening of the 3d, to St. Johns. 
 
 Mr. Noble, one of the companions of the artist Bradford, when 
 he went " after icebergs," made the remark that " there was stu- 
 pidity somewhere," because the beauties of St. Johns harbor and 
 vicinity had not been written up by summer tourists; and the 
 same feeling occurs to all who have an eye for natural beauties 
 who visit Newfoundland for the first time. 
 
 The harbor is completely land-locked, and is about a mile long, 
 and half that distance in width, and is entered through a narrow 
 
 Captain Buddington's signature is not attached to the letter. 
 
134 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. 
 
 channel flanked with high rocks, picturesque in the extreme. 
 Here, as elsewhere, the " west end" is the fjishionable part of the 
 town, which is terraced along the hill-side, showing its whole ex- 
 tent to the approaching visitor ; while the east side is devoted to 
 business, and that business principally the storage of oil, in bright 
 red warehouses. 
 
 Wliile lying in th'> pleasant port, a point of discussion arose 
 as to the authority of the commander over the Scientific Corps. 
 Strong feeling was mutually exhibited, which extended to the 
 officers, and even the crew, among whom was developed an un- 
 mistakable feeling of special affinity on the score of national af- 
 filiation. At this point it really appeared as if the foreign ele- 
 ment were far more in sympathy with each other, as fellow-coun- 
 trymen, thar they were with furthering the hopes of Captam 
 Hall, and the main object of the expedition. However, matters 
 were smoothed over ; the Scientific Corps were left free to follow 
 their own course, and the threatened disruption of the party 
 avoided. 
 
 The vessel laid at St. Johns for a week, some repairs being 
 found necessary for her machinery. Effi^rts were also made to 
 secure a carpenter, but without success; and Captain Hall no- 
 tified the Secretary of the Navy that he should leave without 
 one, deeming longer delny inexpedient. 
 
 Touching first at Fiscanaes, and then at Holsteinborg, Green- 
 land, Captain Hall was agreeably surprised to meet at the latter 
 port the Swedish Arctic exploring expedition, consisting of a 
 brig and steamer, under commander Frederick W. Von Otter. 
 This expedition had been up as far as Upernavik, but was now 
 homeward bound, and the commander kindly offered to take and 
 forward dispatches for Captain Hall. 
 
 Commodore Von Otter reported the navigation in Baffin Bay 
 to be exceedingly favorable, he having seen no ice, except occa- 
 sional bergs, between Disco and Upernavik. He also furnished 
 Captain Hall with a tabular statement of the results of some 
 thirty deep-sea soundings and sea temperatures, obtained on 
 board H. S, M. steamship Inge/jera between Holsteinborg and 
 Upernavik (for which see Appendix, p, 457), with other pleas- 
 ant courtesies, di^iy acknowledged and thoroughly appreciated 
 by the commander of the Polaris. 
 
 The favorable reports of the Swedish expedition inspired Cap- 
 
KINDNESS OF GOVERNOli ELBERG. 135 
 
 tain Hall with new hopes and increased enthusiasm, as the pros- 
 pect of making good progress northward during the present sea- 
 son was thus confirmed. Governor Elberg, of the Holsteinborg 
 district, also very kindly offered to aid the purposes of the ex- 
 pedition in any way that he could. Hall and he had met before, 
 and they now greeted each other as old friends. 
 
 There were two objects in putting into Holsteinborg; one was 
 to get a supply of coal, and the other, a stock of reindeer furs, to 
 make up into winter garments ; but neither of these could be 
 obtained. The supply of coal on hand was only fifteen tons ; 
 and though the governor generously offered to let Captain Hall 
 have two-thirds of it, yet the latter very properly declined to 
 strip the settlement, and concluded to await the tender which he 
 knew was to bring a supply, and for which he was now every 
 day hopefully looking. No reindeer skins could be had either, 
 for the reason that none of these animals had recently been ob- 
 tained. The deer formerly visited that part of Greenland in 
 large herds, but of late years they had totally disappeared ; and 
 hence no skins could be found for sale. 
 
 The Polaris lay at Holsteinborg until the 3d of August, await- 
 ing the tender Congress, and then sailed for Disco, reaching the 
 harbor of Goodhavn on the afternoon of the 4th, twenty-four 
 hours' sailing-time. 
 
 On inquiry it was found that the inspector of the district, Mr. 
 Karrup Smith, was away on his annual tour through the district, 
 and might probably not return for two or three weeks; and 
 though his lieutenant was very cordial and kindly disposed, he 
 hesitated to assume the necessary responsibility. In this dilem- 
 ma, the wife of the inspector, Mrs. Smith, came to the rescue; 
 and expressing herself warmly in behalf of the expedition, and 
 the propriety of the Danish officials doing all in their power to 
 assist the party from the "great and glorious country of the 
 United States," she suggested that a boat-party be sent off to 
 seek the inspector and request his return to Goodhavn. Captain 
 Hall promptly adopted the advice, and detailed his chief mate, 
 H. C. Chester, for the duty. 
 
 After a search up and down the coast, involving a distance of 
 one hundred and seventy-five miles, almost entirely by oars, Mr. 
 Chester was fortunate enough to find the object of his inquiry at 
 Eittenbek, a station to the north of Disco, and the inspector, in- 
 
136 ARCTIC EX1'EUIP:NCES. 
 
 stantly acceding to the request, returned with his boat, in com- 
 pany with Mr. Chester, on the 11th instant. During the absence 
 of the boat, however, the United States steamer Congress, Cap- 
 tain Daven{)ort, had arrived at Disco (August 10), and thus re- 
 lieved Captain Hall of a " mountain-load of anxiety," and mak- 
 ing the presence of Mr. Smith less necessary, though no less 
 agreeable. It was, however, desirable to have his sanction for 
 the use of the Government store-house, as a depot for the extra 
 supplies brought out by the Congress, for the future use of the 
 expedition ; and this was readily granted by Mr, Smith, who also 
 engaged to have the stores carefully preserved till called for, and 
 this gratuitously. The Polaris was here replenished with all the 
 extra stores and coal which she could carry, and the balance 
 was placed in the offered store -house belonging to the Danish 
 Government. 
 
 Besides the stores and dispatches, the Congress had also brought 
 out Captain Tyson's commission as assistant navigator to the 
 expedition, and he was henceforth a regularly enrolled officer. 
 Captain Hall still wanted two men to thoroughly complete his 
 Arctic party. Of these, one was a resident Dane, named Jansen, 
 and enjoying the grand title of "governor" at Tossac, and the 
 other a native Esquimau, Hans Christian. Both of these had 
 been attached to Arctic exploring expeditions before, with Drs. 
 Kane and Hayes, and it was naturally thought that their knowl- 
 edge and experience of Arctic resources would add to the effi- 
 ciency of the expedition, especially as Hans was reputed a good 
 hunter and dog-driver. The last accomplishment is not easily 
 lear.ied, while at the same time it is essential to the success of 
 sledge-traveling. In addition to these, there were still dogs and 
 furs to be obtained. Jansen was to be found at Tossac, and Hans 
 at Proven, a little to the south of the former. 
 
 Leaving Goodhavn on the 17th of August, where also the 
 Polaris parted with the Congress, the former made all sail for 
 Upernavik, which was reached on the 18th; thus making two 
 hundred and twenty-five miles in little more than thirty-three 
 hours. 
 
 While lying at Goodhavn, it leaked out that furtive raids had 
 been made on the liquors and other stores by unauthorized par- 
 ties, and for a while it seemed that an open quarrel would be the 
 outcome of the discovery. But Captain Hall's patience and for- 
 
DISSENSIONS ON BOARD THE POLARIS. 187 
 
 bearance were equal to the emergency, and the misdemeanor was 
 condoned. 
 
 Ilere he had hoped to meet Dr. Rudolph, the late Governor of 
 Upornavik, who had been thirty years in Greenland, but who 
 wa.s now expecting to return on a visit to his native place — Den- 
 mark — and by whom he expected to be able to send to the 
 United States his latest dispatches. 
 
 Doctor, or now ex-Governor, Rudolph — for his successor, Mr. 
 Elberg (son of the Governor of Ilolsteinborg), had arrived — imme- 
 diately offered every facility within his power to aid Captain Hall, 
 lie sent two men in kyacks — small native boats — one to find 
 Janscn, and the other to find Hans. The former was unsuccess- 
 ful, as Jansen declined to come ; but Hans, who was at .Proven, 
 fifty miles to the south of Upernavik, was secured. A boat from 
 the ship had to be sent for Hans, and, under the pilotage of Mr. 
 Chester, he made the Polaris on the 20th of August. Mr. Ches- 
 ter made this trip of a hundred miles, rowing, between noon of 
 August 19th and eight p.m. of the 20th. 
 
 Captain Hall appears to have had very decided premonitions 
 of disaster, from the fact that he left here in charge of Inspector 
 Smith a quantity of valu.ible papers relating to his second expe- 
 dition, and particularly to his search for Sir John Franklin — an 
 extraordinary step to take under the circumstances, as his object 
 in taking them with him was to write them up for publication on 
 his return. 
 
 Why Captain Hall studiously avoided all allusion to the dis- 
 sensions on board — why he even compliments the " material" of 
 the expedition, when he was all the while suffering from inso- 
 lence and disaffection — can only be explained by his idiosyncrasy, 
 which enabled him to sink evenj thing else in the one idea of pushing 
 on to the far north. He dreaded nothing so much as being de- 
 layed, or compelled to return. He was willing to die, but not to 
 abandon the expedition. Not being able to get deer-skins as he 
 expected. Captain Hall procured supplies of seal and dog skins 
 for extra clothing, which answers nearly or quite as well, except 
 for boots. 
 
 The last dispatch from Greenland received by the Secretary of 
 the Navy from Captain Hall was dated at Tossac, and forwarded, 
 through the courtesy of the Danish governor, by a vessel bound 
 to Copenhagen. It was, however, too late for that year. The 
 
138 
 
 arctic; expekien'ces. 
 
 communication with Denmark is by an annual visit of a ship in 
 the curly suinnier, which remains on the Greenland coa.st for a 
 few weeks only, touching at diftercnt settlements, and then return- 
 ing. When the following dispatch was written the vessel had 
 sailed ; and there being no other means of sending it, a whole 
 year elapsed before it could be forwarded, which was done on the 
 next annual visit of the Danish ship. It was not received in 
 
 rPBENAVIK. 
 
 Washington until August of 1872, at which time Captain Hall 
 had been nine months in his solitary Polar grave. The follow- 
 ing is the dispatch : 
 
 Position by my observation, lat. 73° 21' 00 " N. ; long. 56' 5' 45" W.— Hall. 
 
 Urlted States Steamship Polaris, Tossac (or Tes-BU-l-sak), 
 Greenland, August 22, 1871. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honor to report my proceedings since the date August 20 and 21, 
 of my last communication written at Upernavik. 
 
 It was 8.30 P.M. of August 21, when we left the harbor of Upernavik, having on 
 board Governor Elberg, of whom I made previous mention, and several of his people, 
 
DISrATC'II TO THE SECRETAHY OF THE NAVY. 189 
 
 kiound for this jilace o-i a visit. After Hteaining twelve miles to the northward and 
 westward, we hauled up in front of a small island settlement, called KinK-i-toke, 
 where Governor Elt)erg and myself, with a boat's crew, went aahoro to purchase 
 dogs, furs, and other reiiuisites f»jr the expedition. 
 
 Not a little was I clmgrined, at this place, to find the resident governor perfectly 
 immovable in his purpose not to(orn|»iy v itii my tlesire to purchase some of his dogs, 
 although he had many of the best sledge and seal dogs I had ever seen. All my ef- 
 forts in liberal otlers and otherwise, combined witli the persuasive language of (iov- 
 emor Elberg, failed to induce the honorable otKcial of King-i-toke to sell even a 
 single one of his tine dogs. However, I was able, after considerable difficulty, to 
 get from his people eleven dogs, to add to the number already possessed by the 
 Polaris, 
 
 Having spent two hours at Kiiig-i-toke, we retunied aboard, and at once (1 a.m. 
 of August 22), resumed our voyage for Tossac, threading our way, by the aid of good 
 native pilots, among the numerous reefs, rocks, and islands: with which Upernavik 
 and vicinity abound. At 'i.'M) a.m. of fhe 22d we arrived at Tossac, hit. T.i^ 21' 18" 
 N., long, ftti" W. At once I called on Jansen, and, to my astonishment and disap- 
 pointment, found that a mistake had been made in any one of us expecting that his 
 consent had been, or could be, obtained to leave his home at the present time ; * * * 
 but at the same time he has the desire to do all he can in supplying the expedition 
 with dogs, furs, etc. This desire, however, I find to be combined with a face of 
 brass, for he charges unheard-of prices for his dogs, and will not deviate a hair, know- 
 ing as he does, and as I do, that this is the last jilace, and the only j)lace, I can now 
 depend upon with any hope of getting the supply to make up the number needed for 
 our expedition. 
 
 By tlie consent and co-operation of the Government authorities of Denmark res- 
 ident in Greenland, I have concluded to contract with Hans Christian, by which he 
 enters into the service of the United States North I'ole Expedition, as dog-driver, 
 hunter, and servant, at a salary of l|;i(JU per annum. * * * His wife and three chil- 
 dren are to accompany Hans. 
 
 The prospects of the expedition are fine; the weather beautiful, clear, and ex- 
 ceptionally warm. Every jireparation has been made to bid farewell to civilization 
 for several ye. rs, if need be, to accomplish our purpose. Our coal-bunkers are not 
 only full, but we have full ten tons yet on deck, besides wood, planks, and rosin in 
 considerable quantities, that can be used for steaming purposes in any emergency. 
 Never was an Arctic expedition more completely fitted out than this. 
 
 The progress of the Polaris so far has been (juite favorable, making exceedingly 
 good passages from port to port. * * * The actual steaming or sailing time of the 
 Polaris from Washington to New York was sixty hours ; and from the latter place 
 to this, the most northern civilization settlement of the world, unless there be one for 
 us to discover at or near the North Pole, has been twenty days, seven hours, and thirty 
 minutes. Had I known, on leaving New York, that the United States transport 
 would be at Goodhavn, Greenland, as soon as the Polaris could reach that port, the 
 Polaris Viould have been here in advance of the present time just eighteen days; but 
 there is no cause of any regret— indeed, thi./e is every reason to rejoice that ever}- 
 thing pertaining to the expedition, under the rulings of high Heaven, is in a far more 
 prosperous and substantially successful condition than ever I have hoped or prayed 
 for. Every effort we are making to get ready to leave here to-morrow. I will at 
 the latest moment resume my place in continuing this communicatioo. 
 
140 AllCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Evening, August 23, 1872. 
 We did not get under way to-day as expected, because a heavy, ilaik foj^ lius prevail- 
 ed all day, and the Hume now continues. The venture of steaming out into a sea of 
 undefined reefs and sunken rocks, under tlie present circumstances, could not be 
 undertaken. The full number of dogs (sixty) required for the expedition is now made 
 up. At the several ports of Greenland where we stopped we have been successful in 
 obtaining proper food for the dogs. 
 
 AuRust 24, 1 r.M. 
 
 Th(( fog still continues, and I decide we can not wait longer for its dispersion, for 
 a longer delay will make it doubtful of the expedition securing the very high latitude 
 I desire to obtain before entering into wiiiter-(juarters. A good pilot has ottered to 
 do his very best in conducting the Polaris outside of the most imminent danger of 
 the reefs and rocks. * * * 
 
 November, 1.30 p.m. 
 
 The anchor of the Polaris has just been weighed, and not again will it go down 
 till, as I trust and pray, a higher, a far higher, latitude has been attained than ever 
 before by civilized man. Governor KIberg is about accompanying us out of the har- 
 bor and seaward. He leaves us when the pilot does. Governor Lowertz Elberg 
 has rendered to this expedition much ser\ice, and long will I remember him for his 
 great kindness. I am sure you and my country will fully ai)preciate the hospitality 
 and co-operation of the Danish officials in Greenland us relating to our North I'olar 
 expedition. 
 
 November, 2.16 P.M. 
 The Polaris bids adieu to the civilized world. 
 
 Governor KIberg leaves us, promising to take these dispatches back to Upernavik, 
 to send them to our minister at ('openhagen by the next ship, which opportunity may 
 not be till next year. God bo with us. Yours ever, 
 
 C. F. Hall. 
 Hon. Geo. M. RoiiisBOfi, Secretary of the Navy, Waehington, D.C. 
 
 As we thus bid farewell to Captain Ilall, as he sails, with his 
 bright hopes clouded by insubordination, but with a brave, un- 
 daunted heart, northward to unknown seas, we drop the general 
 narrative, and now take up Captain Tyson's notes of events as 
 they occurred, going back a few days to recover some details of 
 interest occurring between New York and the Greenland port. 
 
CAPTMN TYSON'S SOLILOQUY, 141 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 NOTES BY CAPTAIN TYSON ON BOARD THE POLARIS. 
 
 Captain Tyson's Solilociiiy on leaving Harbor.— A Thunder-storm.— Arrive at St. 
 Johns.— Icebergs in Sight. — Religious Services on board the Polaris by Dr. New- 
 man, of Washington. — Prayer at Sea. — Esquimau Hans, with Wife, Children, 
 and "Vermin." taken on board,- Firing at Walrus,— The Sailing-master wants to 
 stop at i'ort Foulk. — The Polaris \nisseH Kane's Winter-quarters.- An impassable 
 Barrier of Ice,— Misleading Charts.— The open Polar Sea recedes from Sight,— 
 Afraid of "Symme's Hole:'— Polaris enters Robeson Channel.— Surrounded by 
 Icefields.- CJouncil of Ofticers.— Puerile Fears.— Sir Edward Belcher.— The Ameri- 
 can Flag raised on "Hall Land."— Seeking a Harbor.— Repulse Harbor.— Thank 
 God Harbor,— Providence Berg,— Housing the Ship for Winter-quarters. 
 
 *^Jutte 29, 1871. As we left the Navy Yard and steamed to- 
 ward the Sound, the vision of friendly faces from which I had 
 just parted seemed to follow me with an intensity I have not 
 always had time to realize. When acting as master the thoughts 
 must be quickly withdrawn from all on shore, and concentrated 
 on the business of the ship. But for once I find myself sailing 
 without a designated position and toward unknown seas, and 
 with leisure to think of the past and to anticipate the future. 
 To observe others, instead of commanding them, is a new sen- 
 .sation on leaving port, and I gave myself up to the novel em- 
 ployment. 
 
 "As we passed through the East River, with the great city of 
 a million souls on my left, and half a million on the right, I could 
 not help thinking how few of all these took any interest in our 
 peculiar mission ; and of those who knew of the outfit of the 
 Polaris, the majority, no doubt, thought we were wild and reck- 
 less men, willfully going to our own destruction. But some there 
 were who bade us God-speed— some large souls who could look 
 through the danger to the honor, and who sympathized with that 
 mysterious attraction which ever draws us on to seek the un- 
 known. I hope this expedition will repay the cost and trouble 
 of its getting up. 
 
 " On we sail — the sunset behind us, the bright summer night 
 
142 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 beckoning us to the familiar waters of Long Island Sound. Ilell 
 Gate is passed, and all looks well for a good night. 
 
 "e/wne 30. At 11 A.M. dropped anchor in New London harbor 
 — so recently my home. Some of my old friends here will think 
 I have started on a wild-goose chase. But as to that all depends 
 on good management. If we have that, I think we can get farther 
 north than any one has been yet. In the evening some members 
 of the Baptist congregation came on board, and a religious service 
 was held. I have heard that Captain Ilall always favored the 
 cultivation of a religious sentiment among his ship's company. 
 
 '^We remained at New London until Monday, July 8. When 
 we left it was fine weather, but the next day we were surrounded 
 with fog, which continued for three days. On the evening of the 
 3d, during the first watch, a great change came over the sky; 
 dark clouds, changing every moment to a deeper blackness, were 
 massed above the horizon to the south-west, and in almost less 
 time than it takes to describe it the entire sky was covered as 
 with a pall; a sudden rain-squall, with violent thunder and brill- 
 iant lightning, quickly succeeded each other. The lightning 
 seemed almost continuous, so incessant were the flashes. The 
 very firmament was in a blaze from horizon to zenith, while 
 peal after peal of deep reverberating thunder echoed and re- 
 echoed across the sky like the cannonading of contending ar- 
 mies. But the Polaris, undisturbed, moved serenely on her 
 way. The storm continued until midnight, and then gradu- 
 ally subsided. 
 
 "The 9th being Sunday, service was held in the cabin, Cap- 
 tain Hall taking occasion to remark that it was his intention, 
 whenever weather permitted, to hold Sunday services. 
 
 " The next day we sighted the coast of Newfoundland, encount- 
 ering some loose flioating ice as we approached St. Johns. In the 
 harbor, which we made on the 11th, were two good-sized icebergs. 
 
 "I see there is not perfect harmony between Captain Hall and 
 the Scientific Corps, nor with some others either. I am afraid 
 things will not work well. It is not my business, but I am sorry 
 for Hall : he is fearfully embarrassed. 
 
 ^'■July 19. Bade farewell to St. Johns. In the evening a very 
 fine show of northern lights commenced about 10 P.M., and con- 
 tinued till past eleven. The sailing-master talked of resigning 
 and going home, but matters have been smoothed over. 
 
ICEBERGS IN SIGHT. 
 
 143 
 
 "On the 26th we passed a heavy piece of ship's timber; it 
 looked as if it had been a long time in the water — a piece of 
 some wrecked whaler, I suppose. If it could speak, who knows 
 what a romance it might have to tell? We are now well up to- 
 ward Fiscanaes; ought to see the coast to-morrow. 
 
 " Thursday^ July 27. Many icebergs in sight; a great many to 
 the southward, and some to the east. Can see the coast plainly, 
 lat. 63°. In the afternoon, about three o'clock, a native pilot came 
 out in his kyack from Fiscanaes and boarded us; these fellows 
 are very daring, and risk themselves in their little, dancing, feath- 
 er-like boats far out of sight of land. 
 
 "Only remained at Fiscanaes until the 29th, leaving at 3 A.M., 
 
 '^m^ 
 
 TUB FI8CANAKB PILOT. 
 
 not finding Hans here, as expected. Weather delightful. A few 
 hours later we passed Lichtenfels, a missionary station. In the 
 latter part of the afternoon the weather changed ; a fresh breeze 
 sprang up, and it commenced to rain. A heavy gale of wind 
 from the south-west created much sea, and, darkness coming on, 
 it was deemed prudent to stop the engine, as there was danger 
 of running on bergs in the uncertain light; also shortened sail. 
 The storm lasted about four hours. 
 
 ^''Juhj 31. Reached Ilolsteinborg. Like most of the Green- 
 land settlements, this is a small place. You can stand on the deck 
 of the PoUiri^ and count not only all the houses, but almost all 
 the people, for every one that can walk gets out to look at a ves- 
 
144 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 sel in the harbor. Captain Hall thought he might perhaps find 
 Hans here, but he was up to the northward. Left Uolsteinborg 
 on the 3d of August, about 2 P.M., and next morning sighted 
 Disco. Icebergs in plenty here. Many of them are from one 
 hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high. To those who see 
 icebergs for the first time the size seems to make the greatest im- 
 pression, but afterward the beauty of many of them keeps the eyes 
 fascinated ; but to the Arctic sailor the permanent feeling is — 
 look out ! there is danger ! Early in the afternoon we received 
 a pilot, and at 3 P.M. of the 4th of August we cast anchor at 
 Goodhavn. 
 
 " Some one has been at the stores. Captain Hall told me he 
 would not have any liquor on board; but Dr. Bessel procured an 
 order for some for medical purposes, and the "thirsty" have 
 found out where it is stowed. 
 
 " On Sunday, August 6, went to church, which, considering 
 the size of the place, was well attended both by resident Danes 
 and Esquimaux. Here, I suppose, we shall wait for the Comjress, 
 
 United States store-ship. Mr. told me that my commission 
 
 would be sent out by her. After seeing what I have, it would 
 suit me just as well if it did not come, for then I should have a 
 decent excuse to return home. There is nothing I should like 
 better than to continue the voyage if all was harmonious, and 
 if each person understood his place and his proper duties. 
 
 ^'■Aug. 10. United States store-ship Congress arrived from New 
 York with provisions and coal. After storing the Polaris to 
 her utmost capacity, the rest was landed at Disco, as a depot, 
 in case the expedition should need it hereafter. Captain Daven- 
 port and Eev. Dr. Newman, who came up in the Congress^ have 
 had their hands full trying to straighten things out between Cap- 
 tain Hall and the disaffected. Some of the party seem bound to 
 go contrary anyway, and if Hall wants a thing done, that is just 
 what they won't do. There are two parties already, if not three, 
 aboard. All the foreigners hang together, and expressions are 
 freely made that Hall shall not get any credit out of this expedi- 
 tion. Already some have made up their minds how far they will 
 go, and when they will get home again — queer sort of explorers 
 these ! 
 
 ^'■Aiig. 17. Captain Hall has purchased a number of dogs for 
 our sledge -excursions. The Rev. Dr. Newman, of Washington, 
 
DIVINE SERVICE ON BOAKD THE POLARIS. 145 
 
 came aboard the Polaris and held a service, using the following 
 prayer, one of three which he has written expressly for the ex- 
 pedition : 
 
 PRAYER AT SEA. 
 
 " ' O God of the Innd and of the sea, to Thee we offer our humble prayers. The 
 whole creation proclaims Thy wisdom, power, and goodness. The heavens declare 
 Thy glory, and the firmament showeth Thy handiwork. Day unto day uttereth 
 speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge. There is no speech nor language 
 where their voice is not heard. And we thank Thee for the clearer and fuller reve- 
 lation of Thyself to man in Thy precious Word. Therein Thou hast revealed Thy- 
 self as our Sovereign and Judge. Thy law is perfect, converting the soul. Thy 
 testimony is sure, making wise the simple. Thy statutes are right, rejoicing the 
 heart. Thy commandment is pure, enlightening the eyes. Thy fear is clear, endur- 
 ing forever. Thy judgments are true and righteous altogether. Although far from 
 home and those who love us, yet we are not far from Thee. We are ever in Thy 
 adorable presence ; we can never withdraw from Thy sight. If we ascend up into 
 heaven, Thou art there ; if we make our bed in hell, behold, Thou art there ; if wc 
 take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea, even there 
 shall Thy right hand lead us, and Thy right hand shall hold us. Oh, help us to be 
 ever conscious that Thou seest us, and knowest us altogether. Though the darkness 
 may cove*- us, yet the night shall be li^^ht about us ; for the darkness and the light are 
 both alike unto Thee. While on liie mighty deep, be Thou our Father and our 
 Friend ; for they who go down to the sea in ships, that do business in the great 
 waters, see the works of the Lord and his wonders in the deep. It is Thee who rais- 
 eth the stormy wind which lifteth up the wave^; it is Thee who niaketh the storm a 
 calm, so that the waves thereof are still. 
 
 " 'Oh, hear us from Thy throne in glory, and in mercy pardon our sins, through 
 Jesus Christ our Lord and Saviour. Give us noble thoughts, pure emotions, and 
 generous sympathies for each other, while so far away from all human habitations. 
 May we have for each other that charity that suffereth long and is kind, that en- 
 victh not, that vaunteth not itself, that is not puffed up, that seeketh not her own, that 
 is not easily provoked, that thinketh no evil, but that beareth all things, hopeth all 
 things, endureth all things ; that charity that never faileth. 
 
 " ' May it please Thee to prosper us in our great undertaking, and may our efforts 
 at this time be crowned with abundant success. Hear us for our country, for the 
 President of the United States, and for all who are in authority over us. And hear 
 us for our families, and for all our friends we have left at home ; and at last receive 
 us on high, for the sake of the gi'eat Redeemer. Amen.' 
 
 "After the service we weighed anchor and steamed out of the 
 harbor. The men on board of the Congress cheered us as we 
 went off, and the most of us returned it. The weather is fine, 
 but many icebergs are all around ; some nice steering is required 
 to avoid running afoul of them, 
 
 "Upernavik,^?^^. 18. Captain Hall, being disappointed about 
 getting the deer-skins at Holsteinborg, has now to try and buy 
 
 10 
 
146 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 dog-skins. They make up into very warm clothing, and are a 
 great deal better protection against cold winds than almost any 
 amount of our woolen clothing. Civilized clothing will keep off 
 still cold, but it takes skins to protect against the searching Arc- 
 tic winds. 
 
 "Ilall now tells me that Davenport was prepared to take one 
 party home in irons for his insolence and insubordination, but 
 that another said he would leave if he did, and that then all 
 the Germans of the crew would leave too ; and that would break 
 up the expedition. Was ever a commander so beset with em- 
 barrassments, from which there seems no way to free himself 
 except by giving up all for which he has worked so long and so 
 hopefully ? 
 
 "p.m. Mr. Chester has got back with a nice load — not only 
 Hans, but his wife and three children, with all his household 
 goods, and skins alive with vermin. Hans, it seems, would not 
 come without his family. 
 
 "Yesterday several sections of our 'oil boiler' were ordered 
 to be thrown overboard; so, when our coal gives out, we shall 
 be unable to raise steam. 
 
 " KiNGiTUK, Aurj. 21. We left Upernavik at 8 a. m., and ar- 
 rived at this little settlement at 11. I'he captain could not get 
 dogs enough at our last port, and hopes to find some here. The 
 Governor of Upernavik, who came up on the Polaris^ intending 
 to \fo as far as Tossac, accompanied the captain ashore — I suppose 
 to 'nfluence the natives to sell their dogs. Succeeded in getting 
 about a dozen, 
 
 "ylw/7. 22. i. rrived at Tcssuisak, or Tossac; here Captain Hall 
 completed his "ipply of skins and dogs — have got about sixty 
 altogether; but ihe man Jansen, whom he hoped to get, would 
 not come. He ha 1 grown too big ; he is governor (!), or some 
 such thing, of this collection of huts. lie was a good man with 
 Dr. Hayes. 
 
 ^'Antj. 23. Can't get away for the fog. 
 
 ^'■Aufj. 24. Sailed to-day. This is the last settlement we ex- 
 pect to stop at. Now we may say we are at the entrance of our 
 work. Only a few days more, and, if the ice does not beset us, 
 we shall be through Smith Sound. 
 
 ^^Aug. 27, Evening. We have reached lat. 78° 51' N., past 
 Kane's winter-quarters. It was on Thursday, three days ago, that 
 
AN " IMPASSABLE BARKIER OF ICE." 147 
 
 we left Tessuisak. We steamed out after dark, and almost ran 
 afoul of an iceberg, and afterward encountered a great many of 
 them, and also considerable ice ; but the Polaris worked through 
 very well. Yesterday saw a party of walruses on the ice ; fired at 
 them, but they got out of the way. It is almost impossible to kill 
 a walrus with a ball fired toward the front, unless the eye is hit. 
 The skull is very thick, except on the crown of the head, which 
 is a difficult point to strike. 
 
 " The sailing-master wants the Polaris to go into Port Foulke 
 and lie up ; then he can stay there and take care of the ship, and 
 the others can go up north '.n sledges if they want to. But I am 
 glad to see that Hall perseveres, and will have his way about 
 that ; and indeed there is nothing to hinder. 
 
 " One revelation after another. Seeing Captain Ilall very con- 
 stantly writing, I asked him if he was writing up his Franklin 
 search-book, about which he had often talked to me. He said, 
 ' No ; I left all those papers at Disco !' I did not like to ask him, 
 but I looked ' Why ?' A sort of gloom seemed to spread over 
 his face, as if the recollection of something with which they were 
 associated made him uncomfortable, and presently, without rais- 
 ing his head, be added, ' I left them there for safety.' I saw the 
 subject was not pleasant, and I made no further remark ; but I 
 could not help thinking it over. 
 
 " It was about half-past three o'clock to-day when we came up 
 to Kane's winter-quarters of 1853-55, and this evening to the 
 point where he abandoned the Advance. But he went much 
 higher by land. 
 
 "■Ang.2^. Last night, just before midnight, at which time it 
 was my watch, Chester came down and reported that an ' impass- 
 able barrier of ice' lay ahead of us. I went up; found the ves- 
 sel had been slowed down ; met our sailing-master, who was in a 
 fearful state of excitement at the thought of going forward. I 
 went up aloft, and looked carefully around. There was a great 
 deal of ice in sight, which was coming down with a light north- 
 erly wind. It looked bad ; but off to the westward I saw a dark 
 streak which looked like water, and I believed it was ; went 
 down and reported to Captain Hall that the ship could skirt 
 round the ice by sailing a little to the south, and then steering 
 west-north-west. At this time the sun set about 11. p.m., and 
 rose again by 1 a.m., so that it was nearly light all the time. 
 
148 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 '' During my watch I got the vessel over to the west side, and 
 found a passage of open water varying from one to four miles in 
 width. During my watch below we reached Cape Frazier, in 
 latitude about 80° N. The obstructing ice which we sailed 
 round to avoid was very thick — from ten to forty feet — showing 
 that it had been formed on the shore plateaus, or shoals, as no 
 such ice ever forms in the open water. 
 
 " We are now on the west side of the sound. It was from about 
 here, I think, that Dr. Hayes traveled with dog-sledges up to 81° 
 35' N. I hope we shall get much farther. But there is one, at 
 least, on board who thinks we have come too far already. Out 
 on such cowards, I say ! I keep aloft much of the time. All 
 the points about here are ivrong on the charts. Here Captain 
 Ilall went ashore and coasted around a little in the boat. 
 
 " Moved on again ; passed Carl Kitter Bay ; and when we got 
 to Cape George Back the ice led us off to the north-east, and we 
 crossed Kennedy Channel, and then over again to Cape Lieber, 
 where we brought up in a fog about fifteen miles from land. 
 Here a copper cylinder was thrown overboard, containing a rec- 
 ord of our progress. We Lave now gained lat. 81° 35' N. CanH 
 make any tlung out of the charts. As old Scoresby says, ' They 
 are more of a snare than a guide.' But we are now at the head 
 of Kennedy Channel, and ought soon to see Kane^s open sea ! 
 
 "Still sailing north; some trouble working through the ice. 
 Here should he the open sea, but there is land on both sides of us! 
 To-day we have sailed into a bay which Morton and Ilans must 
 have mistaken for a sea ; this bay lies to the eastward, inclining to 
 south. Captain Hall calls it Polaris Bay. We are not deceived ; 
 we have sailed right across it. It is not surprising that Morton 
 made this mistake if it was foggy, for on many days one could 
 not see across it; it is about forty -five miles wide. The land, 
 though, is plain enough to be seen, for it is high, quite high land. 
 
 " Still sailing on. We have now got into a channel similar to 
 Kennedy's, only wider, and must be part of the water mistaken 
 for the open sea. This channel is seventeen or eighteen miles 
 wide, and obstructed by heavy ice. I hope we shall be able to 
 get through, but it don't look like it now. I see some rueful 
 countenances, I believe some of them think we are going to 
 sail off the edge of the world, or into ' Symme's Hole.' But so far 
 we see no worse than I have seen scores of times in Melville Bay 
 
PUERILE FEARS. 149 
 
 — ice. Captain Hall has called this new channel, after the Hon- 
 orable Secretary of the Navy, Robeson Channel — a good name : 
 without the good-will of Secretary Robeson we should not have 
 been here ; and if the Polaris should get no farther, her keel has 
 plowed through waters never parted by any ship before. 
 
 **^?/^. 29. Surrounded by ice-fields, and a thick fog has set- 
 tled down on us ; all last night working through the ice, but fear 
 we shall get no farther. Ilave had to fasten to a floe untii about 
 7.30 P.M., when we made a lead near the eastern coast, in hopes 
 to find a harbor here. A second cylinder has been thrown over- 
 board. Went ashore in the boat with Captain Hall, and exam- 
 ined a bight inshore to see if it would do for a harbor. No pro- 
 tection ; would not do. The ice is pressing heavily upon the sides 
 of the Polaris. The captain has ordered a quantity of provisions 
 to be taken out and put on the ice. 
 
 ^^Aug.ZO. Put the provisions aboard again; drifting out of 
 Robeson Channel to the south-west, wind from the north-east 
 Steamed in under the land, and came to anchor behind some 
 bergs. It is blowing a gale. 
 
 " Sept. 1. Unshipped the propeller to save it from injury. 
 
 " Sept. 2. Captain Hall requested Captain Buddington, Mr. 
 Chester, and myself to come into the cabin ; wanted to consult 
 about attempting to proceed farther north. Mr. Chester and I 
 wanted to go on as far as it was possible to get, but the senior of- 
 ficer was opposed. I could have told that before. He was very 
 set, and walked off as if to end the discussion. Captain Hall fol- 
 lowed him, and stood some time talking to him. After a while 
 Captain Hall come toward us, and ordered us to see to the landing 
 of some provisions. I said nothing more, neither did Chester. 
 
 " These puerile fears remind me of Sir Edward Belcher's ex- 
 pressions when discussing the possibility of M'Clure and Collin- 
 son having ventured into the Polar Sea north of the Victoria Ar- 
 chipelago. He says : ' If they entered the Polar Sea on the range 
 of these islands, with comparatively open water for one hundred 
 miles, they might drift to and fro for years, or until they experi- 
 enced one of those northern nips which would form a mound 
 above them in a few seconds! The more I have seen of the 
 action of the ice — the partially open water and the deceitful leads 
 into the pools— the more satisfied I am that the man ivho once ven- 
 tures off the land is in all probability sacrificed!' That man, and 
 
150 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 all like him, ought to have staid at home. The channel was at that 
 very time open to the north-east, and we could have gone on, 
 
 ^^Eveninrj. This afternoon Captain Hall spoke to me again 
 about our going north. Ue seemed to feel worried. I told him 
 that I should gain nothing by it, but that it would be a great 
 credit to Jam to go two or three degrees farther. He appears to 
 be afraid of offending some one. I don't speak all my mind ; it 
 might be misapprehended, and mistaken for self-interest. God 
 knows I care more for the success of the expedition than I do for 
 myself. But I see it's all up, and here we stop. Have ascer- 
 tained that the highest latitude made by the ship was, by dead 
 reckoning, 82° 29';* but we have drifted nearly a degree since 
 then. 
 
 '"'■Sundaij. Our usual Sabbath service in the forenoon. Snow- 
 ing to-day. Can scarcely see the land, though so close to it. 
 
 ">SS?^9^4. This morning there was water making all around; 
 every thing to be got aboard again ; and the shipping of the pro- 
 peller again was not so easy, as it was all frozen over ; but at last 
 it was got into position, and in the evening got up steam, and 
 tried to work nearer inshore to the water. About 11 p.m. we 
 had got through, and free of the ice. Lowered a boat, and I went 
 with Captain Hall ashore to examine the place for a harbor. 
 
 ''^Sept. 5. At midnight, last night, Captain Hall raised an Amer- 
 ican flag on this land — the most northern site on which any civil- 
 ized flag has been planted. When it was run up, Captain Hall pro- 
 nounced that he took possession 'in the name of the Lord, and 
 for the President of the United States.' He then returned on 
 board, and we let go the anchor at half-past twelve, low meridian, 
 on the 5th of September. Tiiis place, which we had examined, 
 was only a bend in the coast, and afforded no protection as a har- 
 bor; we therefore steamed through the open water, and resumed 
 our search to the southward; but not finding any better place, we 
 returned to our former anchorage, and began immediately to land 
 provisions again ; snow still falling. Captain Hall named the 
 bight we examined 'Kepulse Harbor.' 
 
 " On the 7th of September we weighed anchor and steamed in 
 nearer to the shore. There was some discussion as to going over 
 to the west side to look for a harbor, but the sailing-master de- 
 
 * Subsequently corrected. Real latitude, 82' 16'. 
 
THANK GOD IIAHBOU. 
 
 151 
 
 clared she should not move from there, and so Captain Hall gave 
 up. We have now brought the ship round behind an iceberg, 
 which is aground in thirteen fathoms of water. This iceberg is 
 about four hundred and fifty feet long, three hundred feet broad, 
 and sixty feet high. Our latitude, by observation, 81° 38' N., 
 long. 61° 45' W. We had been, I should think, nearly fifty 
 miles farther north, but the current had set us down. We are 
 now preparing to put permanent stores on shore, so that if the 
 vessel gets nipped we shall have something to depend on, 
 
 ^''Sunday. After service thi'=- morning. Captain Hall announced 
 that he would name our winter-quarters Tliank God Ilarhor, in 
 recognition of His kind providence over us so fur. lie also 
 named the iceberg to which we fastened 'Providence Berg.' 
 Came near having an explosion the other day, when coming into 
 harbor, by the fireman neglecting to feed the boilers; just dis- 
 covered in time. 
 
 'SSt^j/. 11. Commenced housing the ship with canvas, and, after 
 the ice becomes strong enough, we shall bank her up. 
 
 lOE UBEAKIMO UP. 
 
162 
 
 ARCTIC EXl'EUIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 A IIunting-party.-A cold Survey.— Description of ("oast-hills. — A Musk-ox shot. — 
 Landing Provisions. — Arctic Foxes. — Captain Hall prepares for a Sledge-jour- 
 ney. —Conversation with Captain Tyson.— Off at last.— Captain Hall "forgets 
 something," — Twenty "somethings." — The Sun disappears. — Banking the Ship. 
 
 Dr. Bessel and Mr. Chester, with Joe and Hans, went off to- 
 day on a hunting-excursion. Shot a musk-ox and some hares. 
 These hares in winter are almost entirely white, having but a 
 small black spot near the ears, and they can cover even that spot 
 
 POLABIB AT OAPK lUPTON— WIMTEB-tllTAETEBS, 18T2-'73. 
 
 with their ears. In consequence of their being colorless like the 
 ice and snow, they can not be readily distinguished if they keep 
 still. The ice, which had been broken up by a southerly gale, is 
 beginning to pack. 
 
 " Sept. 16. To-day has been the most wintry-feeling day we 
 have had. This morning Mr. Bryan, Mr. Meyers, and Mauch 
 went out to make a survey. They got to a mountain about fif- 
 teen miles off in a south-east direction, intending to start a base- 
 line from it; but they returned, between one and two o'clock, 
 nearly frozen, as they had broken through some thin ice and got 
 wet; there was a sharp wind, which helped to discomfit them. 
 
ESQUIMAUX RELICS. 158 
 
 Have been out to see what this country is like where wc must 
 spend our long winter nights. The coast-hills are very high — 
 from nine to thirteen hundred feet or more in height — and the 
 great scars and cracks in the rocks look as if wind and weather, 
 frost and ice, and sudden changes of temperament, had done their 
 worst with them ; at the base of these rocks there is a large 
 amount of dt-bris — stones and sand, great scales from the rocks 
 which have been split off by the frost Off to the south there is 
 a large glacier, which sweeps round in a wide circuit and falls 
 into the bay north of us. There was no snow on these hills 
 when we came to anchor here; what fell the first few days ran 
 off and dried up fast. The mountain ranges which we can see 
 in the interior, so far as I can tell, were also clear of snow; and 
 the land, this 20th of August, is bare, except what eun be distin- 
 guished of the distant glacier, which is white. The soil very 
 rapidly absorbs any moisture. The hot summer has heated the 
 ground so that the snow does not lie. The soil is a light 
 clay. 
 
 " This bay of Thank God Harbor is about twelve miles long 
 and nine wide. The Polaris lies at lat. 81° 38'. 
 
 "Esquimaux have evidently lived here; saw their traces to- 
 day ; circles of stone, indicating where their tents had been placed; 
 but we have seen none of them. Perhaps they used to come here 
 in the summer, and have now emigrated permanently to the south. 
 Have found some spear-heads made of walrus teeth, some pieces 
 of bone, and other little things which only Esquimaux use. All 
 we pick up we give to Dr. Bessel. The landscape is all of a dull 
 neutral tint — a sort of cold gray. It will soon be all of one color, 
 and that white. The frame-work of the observatory which was 
 set up had to be strengthened and braced ; the wind almost blew 
 it down. 
 
 " Sept. 23. A large halo round the sun. We shall probably 
 have a change of weather soon. 
 
 " Sundcvj. Mr. Bryan read a sermon and one of Dr. Newm^an's 
 prayers. Mr. Bryan is quite a favorite aboard, and deservedly 
 so. He never makes any trouble. 
 
 " Dr. Bessel and the natives have returned from their hunting 
 excursion. They took with them a sleigh and team of eight 
 dogs. Hans is driver. The first part of the week they had fine 
 weather, but encountered a stiff gale on Friday — the same which 
 
154 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES, 
 
 almost shook down the observatory. They have brought home 
 the greater part of a musk-ox which they killed. The dogs 
 which draw the sledges are taught to bay these oxen, and keep 
 them at a stand us they do the bears. One of the dogs had been 
 thrown, but not much hurt. The musk-ox has been reported by 
 some writers to be extinct, but it seems they are not here; and 
 Captain Ilall certainly found them plenty west and north of Hud- 
 son Buy in 1865. The flesh of this one was good, and did not 
 taste of musk in the least — very much like other beef The meat, 
 head, and skin weighed over three hundred pounds. As they 
 stand, some of them will weigh twice that. The Labrador musk- 
 ox is so strongly permeated with the flavor of musk as to be 
 scarcely eatable. 
 
 " Sept. 24, Eveyiing. Captain Ilall has a very pleasant way of 
 getting along with the men ; they were highly pleased with some 
 remaiks he made to them on Sunday, and have got up a letter of 
 thanks, which they sent into the cabin. It was very well worded. 
 I have no copy of it, but this was Captain Hall's reply : 
 
 " • United States Steamship Polaris, C. F. Hall commanding. 
 " ' Sirs, — The reception of your letter of tlmnks to ine of this date I aclvnowledge 
 witli 11 heart that deeply feels and fully appreciates the kindly feeling that has jjrompt- 
 ed you to this act. I need not assure you that your commander has, and ever will 
 have, a lively interest in your welfare. You have left your homes, friends, and coun- 
 try ; indeed you have bid a long farewell for a time to the whole civilized world, for 
 the puri)ose of aiding me in discovering the mysterious, hidden parts of the earth. 
 I therefore must and shall care for you as a jjrudent father cares for his faithful 
 children. Your commander, 
 
 '"C. F. Hall, 
 
 •"United States Nortli Polar Expedition, 
 
 In wintcr-qiiartcrsi, Thank God Harbor, 
 
 Lat.81°38'N.,loug.Cl°44'W. Sept. 24, 1871.' 
 
 ^^S^pt. 27. At 11 A.M. commenced a violent snow-storm, which 
 has continued all day. This afternoon at 4 p.m. the ice broke 
 up and packed. We must expect winter weather soon, 
 
 'TAl 1. The snow-storm which commenced on the 27th of 
 September continued for thirty-six hours, and the following day 
 the pack-ice crowded against the ship badly. She ought to be 
 sheared up and banked. All day yesterday a strong gale from 
 the north-west. Weather fine to-day (Sunday). Hour of service 
 changed from 11 A.M. to 8.30. 
 
 "Oc/. 2. In consequence of the pressure of the ice, a considera- 
 ble quantity of provisions have been taken ashore. To-day they 
 
PREPAKING FOR A SLEDGE-JOURNEY. 155 
 
 were all covered up with snow, and some of the men are ordered 
 to haul them off the flat ground and place them under the lee of 
 a hill. There ought to be a house built to shelter them. Some 
 seals have been seen, and some of the men have been out hunt- 
 ing for them, but they got none ; and a white fox which they saw 
 also escaped them. These Arctic foxes seem the most cunning an- 
 imals I ever saw. It is very difficult either to shoot or trap them. 
 
 " Try to do a little reading and writing, but the light is very 
 weak now. The sun makes us but short visits. The ice is now 
 so well hardened that Captain Ilall is talking of preparing a 
 sledgc-party to go north. 
 
 *'0c^. 3. Captain Hall is feeding the dogs up, and looking over 
 his things to decide what he will take. Had a conversation with 
 Captain Hall, lie told me that he would like to have me go 
 with him, and then he stopped, and, pointing to the sailing-mas- 
 ter, said, ' but I can not trust that man. I want you to go with 
 me, but I don't know how to leave him on the ship. I want to 
 go on this journey, and to reach, if possible, a higher latitude than 
 Parry before I get back.' I told him '1 would like to go; but, 
 of course, I was willing to remain and take what care of the ship 
 1 could.' I did not tell him how much I wanted to go. 
 
 "Oc<. 6. Preparations still going ca for the sledge-expedition. 
 Captain Hail told me to-day that he would take Chester with him 
 instead of me, giving as his reason ' that, if the vessel should break 
 out, it would be better for me to be aboard to assist the sailing- 
 master.' lie has been having every thing weighed, so as to know 
 exactly what weight the dogs will have to carry, and what rations 
 to allow themselves. Been examining the dogs' harness, and 
 preparing extra lines. It seems slow work. 
 
 '^Oct. 10. Every thing ready at last; they will get started to- 
 day at 12 M. There are two sledges ; each sledge has seven dogs : 
 Captain Hall and Joe in one sledge, and Mr. Chester and Ilans in 
 the other. This journey, I understand, is merely preliminary to a 
 more extended journey in the spring. lie wants to get a gen- 
 eral idea of which will be the best route; he hopes to find some 
 better way than over the old floes and hummocks of the straits. 
 
 ^^Evening. Saw Captain Hall well on his journey; went with 
 some of the men, and helped haul the heavy laden sledge up the 
 steep hill. They drove off the plains to the eastward, a little 
 north by east. I watched them as long as I could see them, and 
 
156 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 OAFTAIN hall's BLEDOB-JOUBNBr. 
 
 hope he will have a safe and successful trip ; but after all the 
 time spent in preparing and packing, I have no doubt he has for- 
 gotten something ; he is rather peculiar that way. 
 
 "Od. 11. As soon as this snow-storm is over, I shall try and 
 get material to build a house ashore to put our stores in ; other- 
 wise we shall have to dig them out of the snow whenever they 
 are wanted. Hans has returned with a letter from Captain Hall ; 
 it seems he has forgotten, not one thing, but several, and is now 
 waiting five miles off for Hans to return with them." 
 
 [A copy of the above letter or dispatch was found in the 
 
 writing-desk of Captain Ilall, and was preserved on the ice-floe. 
 
 We give it entire. — Ed.'] 
 
 " ' Sir, — Just as soon as possible attend to the following, and send Hans back im- 
 mediately : 
 
 " 'Feed up the dogs (14) on the seal-meat there, giving each 2 pounds. 
 " ' In the mean time order the following articles to be in readiness : 
 " ' My bear-skin mittens ; 
 " '3 or 4 pairs of seal-skin mittens (Greenland make); 
 
TWENTY "SOMETHINGS." 157 
 
 "' 8 fathoms lance warp ; 
 
 "' 20 fathoms white line, for dog lines ; 
 
 "' 1 pair seal-skin pants, for myself ; 
 
 •'' 12 candles, for drying our clothing; 
 
 "'' Chester's seal-skin coat ; 
 
 " ' 1 candlestick, 1 three-cornered file, 4 onions; 
 
 "' 1 snow-shoe ; 
 
 " ' 1 cup, holding just one gill ; 
 
 " ' 1 fire-ball, and the cylinder in which it is (this hangs up in my office) ; 
 
 " ' Have the carpenter make, quick as possible, an oak whip-handle, and send the 
 material for 2 or 'A more ; 
 
 " 'A small box that will hold the 1 pound of coffee which I have ; 
 
 " 'A small additional quantity of sinew; 
 
 " 'Try and raise, if possible, 2 pairs of seal-skin boots that will answer for both 
 Chester and myself. 
 
 " 'The traveling we found very heavy yesterday, the snow being veiy deep, and 
 just hard enough to allow ourselves, the dogs, and the sledge to break through at ev- 
 ery step. We were three full hours in making the first two and a half miles from the 
 ship. The dogs, being poor and weak, were more disposed to lie down and take a 
 nap than to work, but the whip, swung by the energetic iirm of our excellent dog- 
 driver, " My Joe," at length warmed them up, so that after a fashion we accomplish- 
 ed a hard day's work, but only the distance of five {'>) miles. These drawbacks and 
 obstacles, however, are nothing new to an Arctic traveler. We laugh at them, and 
 plod on, determined to execute the service faithfully to the end. 
 
 "'Have Mr. Bryan compare my watch with chronometer D; then, by a good 
 watch-guard attached to it, suspend it to the neck of "Hans," having the watch next 
 his wann bosom. 
 
 '"Do not omit sending my bear-skin mittens, which I left behind by mistake. 
 
 " ' Have Hannah make a small watch-bag to suspend to my neck, then place the 
 same on Hans's neck, with the watch in it. 
 
 " 'Tell Dr. Bessel to be very mindful that the chronometers are all wound up at 
 just the appointed time every day. 
 
 " 'Willie Hans is absent, we are to go on a hunt for musk-cattle. Hasten Hans 
 back without the loss of a moment. 
 
 " 'I should have sent Hans back last night, but I desired to first know that our 
 company apparatus was all complete. The "Conjuror"* works well. May God be 
 with you all. Respectfully, C. F. Hall, 
 
 " ' Commanding; North Polar Expedition, in snow hut B miles 
 east of Thauk God Harhor, on sledge-journey toward the North Pole, 
 and on a mnsk-ox hunt. October 11th, 1871, Oh. 25m. a.m. 
 
 " 'You wil. preserve this carefully, as I have not the time to copy It now. Tell 
 Hannah and little Puney to be good always. H. 
 
 " 'S. O. BuDDiNQTON, Sailing and Ice Master, North Polar Expedition.' " 
 
 "Od. 17. Our sun has set behind the mountains, and we shall 
 not see him again this winter from the ship ; we might, no doubt, 
 by going to the top of the hills, see the upper limb for two or 
 
 * A small stove, for use in traveling. 
 
158 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 three days longer; but their great height cuts him off from the 
 ship. Have commenced banking up the ship with snow, to keep 
 out the cold. Want to get all snug and taut before Captain Hail 
 returns. Set some of the men to fixing up the canvas housing, 
 covering in a portion of the deck, and making it almost as tight 
 as a room. The twilight deepens, and we have but a few hours 
 which can be called daylight. Yesterday (19th) it was exceed- 
 ingly cold, and blowing such a gale that the men had to stop 
 work on the banking, and get inside. 
 
 '■'■Oct. 21. The banking is not finished yet, but we have got the 
 deck housed in, and we now creep in and out through a small 
 opening. Been to work making a house on shore; I made it 
 out of hard- wood poles; tried to get some lumber out of the ship, 
 but could not, though there was some aboard. 
 
 UOTUIU lUEiiEBO. 
 
CAPTAIN HALL'S RETURN. 159 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Putting Provisions ashore. — Return of Cnptuin Hall. — "Prayer on leaving the 
 Sliijis." — Ciij)tain Ilali taken .Sick. — What was seen on his Sledge-journey.— Apo- 
 plexy ?— M'f'lintock's Engineer — Death of Captain Hall. — A strange Remark. — 
 I'reparing the Grave. — The Funeral. — "I walk on with my Lantern." — Thus end 
 his ambitious Projects. 
 
 "All the stores on shore, coal, clothing, guns, ammunition, ap- 
 parel, and a portion of every thing which we should most need, 
 are being packed in my little house. It could have been made 
 stronger if I had the lumber, but the poles do tolerably well. 
 
 "Oc/. 24. Still engaged in banking; it is heavy work, as we 
 are making the bank about ten feet thick. 
 
 '^AJhrnoon. Captain Ilall and the rest returned to-day about 
 one o'clock; all well, and have lost no dogs. Have been gone 
 just two weeks. Captain Hall looks very well. They expected 
 to go a hundred miles, but they only went f.fty. I saw them 
 coming, and went to meet them. Captain Hall seems to have 
 enjoyed his journey amazingly. lie said he was going again, 
 and tliat he wanted me to go with him. He went aboard, and 
 I resumed my 'banking.'" 
 
 [Among the articles found on the ice-floe was a small private 
 desk of Captain Hall's, Vv'hich Esquimau Joe took charge of. In 
 this was found a small book of nine pages, containing the three 
 prayers composed for the use of the expedition by Dr. Newman. 
 On the outside it was indorsed : 
 
 "C. F. HALL. 
 
 "Thank God Harbor ; lat. 81° 38' N., long. 61° 44' W." 
 
 On the upper margin of the first page was penciled, " By Dr. 
 Newman, for the North Polar Expedition." 
 
 The second prayer, "on leaving the ships," was indorsed as 
 follows, in Captain Hall's handwriting: 
 
 "Read 1st time Oh. irm. to 6h. r.Om. a.m., Tuesday, Oct. 17, 1871, in our snow- 
 house, .5th enct. (encampment) on the New Bay. Lat. N., long. W. 
 
 ''Oct. 90, 1871. Read a.m., 7h. Om. at our Gth enct., N. side entrance of what I 
 now denominate Newmuu Buy, after Rev. Dr. Newman, the author of the three 
 prayers of this book." 
 
160 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 The third prayer, which was to have been first used at the 
 North Pole, will be found in the Appendix. The second we give 
 entire. — EdJ] 
 
 PRAYER ON LEAVING THE SHIPS, 
 
 "Almighty Father in Heaven, Thou art the God of all ages, climes, and seasons. 
 Spring and autumn, summer and winter obey Thy command. In the tropics Thou 
 dost cause the sun to send forth Hoods of light and heat upon plain and mountain, 
 until the earth bums like a furnace ; and here in this far-oft' northern clime Thou 
 givest snow like wool and scattereth the hoar-frost like ashes. Who can stand be- 
 fore Thy cold ? But Thou art our shelter from the stormy blast, and our cover from 
 the storm. 
 
 " We return Thee hearty thanks f(jr our safe and prosperous voyage over the great 
 deep ; and now as we leave our ships, be Thou our guide and protection while we 
 traverse these mountains of ice. As unto Thine ancient people through the wilder- 
 ness so may it please Thee to be unto us, as a cloud by day and a pillar of fire by 
 night. We are here to explore the unknown regions of our earth, to enlarge the 
 scope of human knowledge, and advance the best interests of mankind. Others have 
 perished in the noble but perilous attempt, but may it please Thee to preserve us 
 amidst dangers seen and unseen, and bring our labors to a successful termination. 
 Grant us health of body, vigor of mind, and cheerfulness of soul. Save us from 
 doubts and fears and all misgivings. May our courage never forsake us, nor our 
 resolution falter for a moment. Send us the inspiration of Thy Spirit that will give 
 us warmth of soul and gladness of heart amidst these ice-bound regions. 
 
 " He pleased to suggest to our minds the direction we should take, and point out 
 to us tiie path which will lead us to the desired destination, that our hearts may be 
 glad and rejoice in the consummation of our plans. 
 
 " Helj) us to be kind and true to the people of this distant land, that they may 
 learn of Thee and of a better civilization by our deportment and example, and espe- 
 cially of that Divine Christianity which is the hope of the world. 
 
 " Unto Thee, Almighty Father, we offer our prayers for the health and happiness 
 of the dear ones at home, who arc now thinking of us, and may we meet them again 
 in peace and safety. 
 
 "Pardon all our sins, we humbly beseech Thee; keep our minds in perfect peace, 
 and at last, when life is over, may we behold Thee in Tiiy glory in Heaven, for the 
 sake of Christ our Redeemer. Amen." 
 
 "Oc^. 24, Evenirig. I kept at work till it was too dark to see, 
 and then came aboard. Captain Hall is sick ; it seems strange, 
 he looked so well. I have been into the cabin to see him. He 
 is lying in his berth, and says he feels sick at his stomach. This 
 sickness came on immediately after drinking a cup of coffee. I 
 think it must be a bilious attack, but it is very sudden, I asked 
 him if he thought he was bilious, and told him I thought an 
 emetic would do him good. He said if it was biliousness it 
 would, Hope he will be better to-morrow. 
 
 "Oc^, 25. Captain Hall is no better. Mr. Morton and Mr. 
 
CAPTAIN HALL DELIRIOUS. 161 
 
 Chester watched with him last night; they thought part of the 
 time he was delirious. 
 
 ^'■Eieniiirj. Captain Ilall is certainly delirious; I don't know 
 what to make of what he says. lie sent for me as if he had 
 something particular to say, but — I will not repeat what he 
 said; I don't think it meant any thing. No talk of any thing in 
 the ship but Captain Hall's illness; if it had only been 'the heat 
 of the cabin,' which some of them say overcame him, he could 
 have got out into the air, and he would have felt better. I can 
 not hear that he ate any thing to make him sick; all he had was 
 that cup of coffee. 
 
 "Chester has been telling me about this sledge-journey. He 
 says they went up to the large bay we saw to the eastward of 
 Robeson Strait, and they have discovered a lake and a river. 
 They went up on to the top of an iceberg near the mouth of this 
 nver, where they could overlook the lai'ge bay. From its south- 
 ern cape to its head it is thirty miles long. He says Captain 
 Hall has named this southern cape after Senator Sumner; the 
 bay itself after Dr. Newman ; and the north cape after Mr. J. 
 Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn." [Here he wrote his last official 
 dispatch. — Ed.'\ 
 
 " There was plenty of open water all around, and they could 
 see the seals at play. The ice in the strait itself was moving, so 
 they did not venture on it. They made six camps on the way, 
 and halted at Cape Brevoort, where they could see about seventy 
 miles farther to the north. Captain Hall thought their eyes took 
 in land as far north as 83° 5', but they could not be sure of any 
 thing at that distance, unless it was some very high mountain or 
 a familiar landmark. Where they stopped last, at their sixth 
 encampment, it was too hilly for the dogs to go any further. 
 
 "Joe built snow-huts for them, and they did not find it very 
 cold ; they saw musk-ox and the tracks of bears and wolves ; 
 and have seen foxes and rabbits, geese, partridges, and other 
 birds; so that Captain Hall is quite encouraged, thinking that, 
 when he goes again, their party can depend on getting game to 
 help subsist on. Joe shot some seals at their very last encamp- 
 ment. Mr. Chester says that Captain Hall wrote a record, and 
 put it in one of the copper cylinders, which was left at Cape 
 Brevoort, digging down and covering it up with stones. The 
 weather was warmer than it is here. 
 
 11 
 
162 ARCTIC EXPEUIENCES. 
 
 "iVby. 1. Captain Ilall is a little better, and has been up, at- 
 tempting to write; but he don't act like himself — he begins a 
 thing, and don't finish it. He begins to talk about one thing, 
 and then goes off on to something else: his disease has been pro- 
 nounced paralysis, and also apoplexy. I can't remember of any 
 one dying of apoplexy in the north except Captain M'Clintock's 
 engineer, and he died very suddenly ; went tv> bed well at 9 p.m., 
 and was found dead in his state-room in the morning. I always 
 thought that might have been heart disease. Hope the captain 
 will rally, 
 
 "iVoy. 3. Captain lEall very bad again. He talks wildly — 
 seems to think some one means to poison him ; calls for first one 
 and then another, as if he did not know who to trust. When I 
 was in, he accused and of wanting to pois- 
 on him. When he is more rational he will say, ' If I die, you 
 must still go on to the Pole ;' and such like remarks. It's a sad 
 affair; what will become of this expedition if Captain Hall dies, I 
 dread to think. 
 
 "iVby. 5. No change for the better — w^orse, I think. He ap- 
 pears to be partially paralyzed. This is dreadful. Even should 
 he recover his senses, what can he do with a paralyzed body ? 
 
 "A^oi'. 8. Poor Captain Hall is dead; he died early this morn- 
 ing. Last evening Chester said the captain thought himself that 
 he was better, and would soon be around again. But it seems he 
 took worse in the night. Captain Buddington came anc^ --'Id me 
 he ' thought Captain Hall was dying.' I got up immedj -ioly, and 
 went to the cabin and looked at him. He was qu'.te unconscious 
 — knew nothing. He lay on his face, and was breathing very 
 heavily ; his face was hid in the pillow. It was about half-past 
 three o'clock in the morning that he died. Assisted in preparing 
 the grave, which is nearly half a mile from the ship, inland ; but 
 the ground was so frozen that it was necessarily very shallow ; 
 even with picks it was scarcely possible to break it up. 
 
 "A^oi'. 11. At half-past eleven this morning we placed all that 
 was mortal of our late commander in the frozen ground. Even 
 at that hour of the day it was almost dark, so that I had to held 
 a lantern for Mr. Bryan to read the prayers. I believe all the 
 ship's company was present, unless, perhaps, the steward and 
 cook. It was a gloomy day, and well befitting the event. The 
 place also is rugged and desolate in the extreme. Away off, as 
 
:i II I ,ii ,. ", 
 
 'nil iiil|l 'II 
 ■,' " I 
 
 ''iii 
 ,'.!ii:i 
 'i 
 
THE FUNEKAL PROCESSION. 165 
 
 far as the dim light enables us to see, we are bound in by huge 
 masses of slate roek, which stand like a barricade, guarding the 
 barren land of the interior; between these rugged hills lies the 
 snow-covered plain; behind us the frozen waters of Polaris Bay, 
 the shore strewn with great ice-blocks. The little hut which they 
 call an observatory bears aloft, upon a tall llag-stafi", the only 
 cheering object in sight; and that is sad enough to-day, for the 
 Stars and Stripes droop at half-mast. 
 
 "As we went to the grave this morning, the cofTin hauled on a 
 sledge, over which was spread, instead of a pall, the American 
 Hag, we walked in procession. I walked on with my lantern a 
 little in advance ; then came the captain and officers, the engineer, 
 Dr. Bessel, and Meyers; and then the crew, hauling the body 
 by a rope attached to the sledge, one of the men on the right 
 holding another lantern. Nearly all are dressed in skins, and, 
 were there other eyes to see us, we should look like any thing 
 but a funeral cortege. The Esquimaux followed the crew. There 
 is a weird sort of I'ght in the air, partly boreal or electric, through 
 wliich the stars shone brightly at 11 A.M., while on our way to 
 ■'•. ave. 
 
 "uL's end poor Hall's ambitious projects; thus is stilled the 
 selng enthusiasm of as ardent a nature as I ever knew, 
 c might not always have been, but his soul was in this 
 \^.il; and had he lived till spring, I think he would have gone 
 us far at- mortal man could go to accomplish his mission. But 
 with his death I fear that all hopes of further progress will have 
 to be abandoned. 
 
 i 
 
l(je AliCTIC EXrEIllENCEb. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 l^aptain Tiuililington passes to the Command. — Scientific Obsen-ations. — The first 
 Aurora of the Season. — Sunday Prayers discontinued. — Dr. Bessel Storm-bound 
 in the Observatory. — Meyers to the He.^cue. — An Arctic Humcane. — Fast to the 
 Icei)erg. — Sawing through the Ice. — Electric Clouds. — Pressure of Fioe-ice. — The 
 Iceberg splits in two. — The Polaris on her Beam-ends. — Hannah, Haus's Wife, 
 and the Children put Ashore. 
 
 ''Captain' Bri)i)iN(iTON has passed to the command without 
 question, it being understood by all that such was to be the case 
 if Captain Hall died or wa.s disabled. 
 
 •' Bad weather. Observations continue to be made by Dr. Bes- 
 sel and Mr. Meyers on the temjMjrature, the force and vehxiity of 
 the wind, the deviations of the cotnpxss, and whatever else the 
 weather jwrmits. They work in the observatory. On board we 
 make frequent obm'rvations on the tides; usually every hour, 
 *>raetimes more frequently, I>r. Ik'!*.s<'l and Mr. Meyers say now 
 tliat the highest hititude the ship reaehid w.-t** «2 W. 
 
 ^' Suv. 15. Apf»«»arpd the iir.-«t aurora of th«' season, not very 
 briiliaiit The laini to the east of ItilM-sttn Strait north of \V:wh- 
 ingtoti I^anU w*- now i-ull 'llail's Uin«l.' Win is tin wiutlH r m 
 KSaXlR and xttry eold. tiie !<•»• in lixlw^m ('harir»l n* partially ijo?** d. 
 \m% with wery i»lr«>ng br< « /,*- that blows h ■ t..i juii. - 
 
 •lAMMlBii. If w«» could ;;i't through orii' oi t^Miltgaas, w« \u.j-u' 
 #»< A»0frfi wakr iit-youd. Thi* w4-ntli.r j« rrrr <»butij^i»J& 
 A ^awpi of 'M* m a ft'w hmm m tuo. mwumuum The l«it jpk 
 mm ill ii.i<fifiiii.i i u> h«v« a »«iwto riif fci^^iwww mi!?'* nor Immm'. 
 
 fVPB *wm qMNv |iRi^ WW wHmKKmf |wH ■■ w*-*! i i tBtna 
 
 mtvm^ hm m ffif «i m^kwumm- : k mmmm » pUf to <#•* 
 
 WKtHm mm V .JL^'m. miw 'lUiPPW' Vl^ 9-' -^^MPr mnrpMnMl^v WBf liPillnll W/mm ml^ PM 
 «'df ^ 4iillilir fitiif « fej^glBtii Milii'iiiit^ iiiii'iinin bi^ jMMIIft ^Al agiliiig^ ^gdugli* 
 
STOUM-BOUND IN THE OBSKRVATOKY. 167 
 
 keep bim prisoner there too long. At half-past nine Mr. Meyers 
 concluded to go and see if any thing had happened to him. It 
 was with the utmost difficulty that he made his way up the hill 
 toward the observatory. Several times he was driven back by 
 the force of the storm. Joe and Hans offered to go with him ; 
 and finallj', after an hour consumed in trying to get a few rods, 
 they succeeded in reaching the house. It was well they went. 
 Dr. Bessel had been without fire for eight hours, his coal having 
 given out; and he had not dared, in the storm and darkness, to 
 try and get to tiie ship for fear of losing his way. One of his ears 
 was frozen. . . 
 
 " Mr. Meyers got one of his eyelids frozen in the brief time he 
 had been battling the wind and snow, and even Joe's right cheek 
 was touciied. However, they all got back to the ship; and after 
 Dr. Bessvd had had somt' warm coffee and food, and his ear at- 
 tended to, he was all right again. This gale kept veering and 
 backing between ejust and north, an<l part of the time attained the 
 immense velfwity of sixrv miles {xt hour, the tiiermonieter sUmd- 
 ing at 24' Ik'Iow ; wii .1, if it had Ix'en calm, we should tliink 
 moderaU' w«>ather. 
 
 "One of the men, IL'rman .Si«'man. going out to examine the 
 ti<ie gauge, wjw lifuii up hy the sl4>rrn and eurri»'«j ijuitt- a (ii«- 
 tance, ami then thrown violently ufwin th<? ice, which wjw over- 
 iUviM with wattr; he h:i<l t4> give up. The miow drift wan a« 
 blinding an the gala wui* f'uriouM; it hflji Nhak<?n up the ice no ilup^ 
 ill.' till- night ttuit lietwecn on«' and two o'cl'N'k it lit'gan cra«;king 
 aruund tJi*' whip, and the Hiiow-wall which W(> hiui \mh'u at micIi 
 ^n« to biuid j.'M- ^-.y •!• .i mnk fully two f.it. 
 
 *'-*^'. fl. Y- - i tm bnAic ttil around tu, t^ unow 
 
 t kiUmg m» tfctt •#• wrtiUi mA mm omr erwdtiHm or Itow Uj> rmmdf 
 iMjr thin, n w*- |Mit out mw*i r : h«t iImi fU|i 
 
 MM ^Aarnr mmmA tiw bm§. Ttmurd tumm ^.tin- (if tkm atm 
 mumntditiA in gtmm§ <mm ibe iot Hi " >tii wttli tibr 
 
 .m qf hmnt iii m tlwy III i I i im ii i t itmm «• • ikm ^ 
 
 Hit wMMMMi wV IBW OTHIM.. W:. '.itf 
 
 : . ''f^'4»f lk» mr wl krr liMiii ii i i §m. km vmj mii : (iw wkti 
 hm mM- Whm «» imm *^ *>* wlnt limiigi lii tn^i 
 M MMi^» INMM||| '^■Ir minj|p.» inl MM w uttf ttttitfjB 
 
HJ3 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 were lost — probabl;^ drifted away when the ice broke. Most 
 of the do2r3 were foitunatclv on boan', having been brought in 
 when the gale came on. 
 
 " Aoi;. 25. Sawed an opening through the ice, so as to warp the 
 ship round under better shelter toward the centre of the berg, 
 as in our present position we are only protected in one direction. 
 Moved her along one hundred and twenty feet, to the middle of 
 the berg on its long side. 
 
 "Last evening some electric clouds were observed — a shining 
 white, and circular in form. There have been some seen before. 
 
 '■^Suiahuj. There was a brief service held, but the announce- 
 ment was made that attendance was not compulsory, though it 
 was desirable that all should attend, ^fr. liryan would like the 
 service to be regular, but 1 don't know who is head of the chap- 
 Uiin's business now. 
 
 "A'cr. 28. Fair weather and moderate temperature yesterday; 
 but the latter part of tlie day the barometer fell gradually, and 
 in the evening a snowstorm, with a gale, set in from the south — 
 south by west. The tl<x!-iee was pre8.sed against our berg so vio- 
 lently that it j>artoil in two. \V«' swung to our anchors, but the 
 (ihip was lorced Uj)on ttu; foot of the berg, which lay to the .south- 
 went of ij.«4, shaking an<l straining the vessel badly. At ebb tide 
 •be keeie<I over, and lay nearly on h<T Warn -ends; CAtKXUXUg tm 
 much that it \n diflieiilt to ki'<>)> onv* Awting on <]e *C 
 
 *• The foot of the m'\y^'^^ Ih now pttttbeti lum^'aU* '. raining her 
 two U'vi ami a half. Sent IJannaii and IInn»*ii wiA; with the 
 to 1^ ofaieryatory tat aafety. Ako mmi mnw more 
 wtHaoTP. in onw we htive to •«'■;•'■■ ''r- vf**,-}. Think Um 
 6oalil hs itMlfld ^, but nu u:-,. . If nhe in h§^ 
 
 m ^Hi wftjr tke will gi^ llirtber Mid &rtl ii« apii <tf tlM 
 
 yt^ mA fel mmk m mmmn% m will ^ -^^'''^ 
 
DR. BESSEL'S BAD LUCK. 169 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Thanksgiving. — A Paraselene. — Dr. Bessel's bid Luck. — "It is very dark now." — 
 Oppressive Silence of the Arctic Night. — Tiie Voracity of Shrimps. — "In Hall's 
 Time it was Heaven to this." — A natural Gentleman. — No Service on Cliristmas. 
 — The Polaris rises and falls with the Tide. — Futile Blasting. — The New Year. — 
 Atmospheric Phen(nnena. — The Twilight brightens. — Trip to Cape Lupton. — 
 Height (if the Tides at Tliank (jod Harbor. 
 
 "Thanksgiving was remembered at the table, but in nu 
 other way. Fair weather. 
 
 ■'On both Satunhiy ami Sunday evening there was a para- 
 selene — three moons showing besides the true one; the four so ar- 
 ranged a.s to Ibnn a beautiful cross. This curious phenomenon 
 is more common in tiiese latitudes than farther south, caused, 1 
 jMv.siunc, l»y some peculiar state of the atmosphere — a sort of 
 double refraction. 
 
 ^Dfc. 6. Dr. lk's.Hcl has bad luck. Yesterday was fair until the 
 middle of the day, but in the afternoon a gale sprung up from 
 the south, increa-Hing through the evening. Toward mi<hiighl 
 ih«; wind wulwided, but a muow- storm came on. About 2 a.m. 
 Dr. Ik'iuM'l Htarted for the olmTvatory, and. missing bin way, 
 wander*-4i ab<iut uil night until nix o'ehxjk this morning. It 
 iuiH juttt <ict:urre4i In htm that i» would Ije well u> run a w»pt? ewr 
 * win? fr<«fn th«- whip u* the obiervaUiry, lo m lo guidt* him in 
 tiw? darkm-**; anti it will be p«t up todAy. 
 
 •' Thire are uceiMonal 4i»fday»« c»f nortlwrn lightu, but nm very 
 Wilh«iit; )mv« Men a numUr of naHinUnff'mmk Ko ckwibt we 
 mtm imtr*' thati w« nee. The Um mtmra, ftiPMibwr 10^ itfh 
 pmm4 m ike fim« .^f m »fr mm ^ hMh aialwwtoy iteK W 
 ^mm i niil i mm y» mtf^wmL Whmmm *m« it of • 
 'mmm rfMMM 9«f|r fhMf, htmmm tfwm m mmkinff lUI 
 m m ^Mrnm^ tk* vImp. ewm^ m *• itiiiiiiiiii oT A« bMi, ind 
 
170 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. • 
 
 It is very dark now, but not totally dark. We shall soon reach 
 the shortest day, and can then look forward to a blessed change 
 from this gloomy, everlasting twilight; we can hardly tell day 
 from night, and, if it was not for our time-pieces, should get sad- 
 ly mixed up — the more so that there is so little regularity ob- 
 served. There is no stated time for putting out lights; the men 
 are allowed to do as they please ; and, consequently, they often 
 make night hideous by their carousings, playing cards to all 
 hours. 
 
 *' Can not get away from the ship much ; it is too dark to go 
 out of sight of the vessel, except for an hour or two at high me- 
 ridian ; and, once away from the ship, the gloom and silence of 
 every thing around settles down on one like a pall. There is no 
 whistling of t*'t wind among the trees, for none of these exist 
 here; and out on the open plain the wind strikes you without 
 notice. There is nothing to be ruffled or disturbed by it, so that 
 you ft-el it before you hear it, except you are near a gorge in the 
 hill.s, between which it .sometimes comes roaring loud enough. 
 
 "The other evening I had wandered away from the ship. di.«?- 
 gusted with the confusion and noi.sc, and longing for a moment's 
 (juiet. Once beyond range of the men's voices, there was abso- 
 lutely no other sound wljat^ner. It wai4 quite calm : no wind, 
 no movement of any living oreaturo; notliinj» but a leaden sky 
 abf)VP, ice beneath my f»H't. an«l fii/tHre eivri/u/H'n-. It hunj? like 
 a pall over every thinjr. So pninfully oppremiivi* did it Ix-com** 
 tt last that I wan fn-quiritly ti'mpt«'«l to nhout aloml mywif. to 
 bnmk Um i^sAL At Umlf i 4*tkg but. m F i mj^tm ^ame, not even 
 
 Am4 rtw (wtf f mnre mm Ife 
 
 kftr« ttiwl rmwoWen ami nUier fim-mrmm 
 ndcfl at tkmm I have iM«t trnt^nm^ 
 
 WHPfWm, Or PI'-ljl •^PBPIPia^ VW S^Hb A ■PHB'aK 
 
PREPARATION FOR CHRISTMAS. 171 
 
 he wished cleaned, was not only picked clean of every edible 
 speck, but almost polished by the shrimps. 
 
 '^'■Dec. 17. Another aurora reported last night ; very shifting 
 and changeable. < ' • ■ - 
 
 "i>ec. 18-24. Nothing occurring that is pleasant or profitable 
 to record. I wish I could blot out of my memory some things 
 which I see and hear. Captain Ilall did not always act with the 
 clearest judgment, but it icas /icaven to this. I have not had a 
 sound night's sleep since the 11th of November. Would he had 
 lived till spring! - 
 
 "Some preparations are being made for Christmas, and all 
 hands, I hear, are to be invited into the cabin this evening. We 
 have passed our shortest day, and that interests me most. If I 
 can get through this winter I think I shall be able to live through 
 any thing. Mr. Bryan does not say much, but I think he feels 
 it as much as I do. He is naturally a gentleman, with the true 
 instincts of right jiiid wrong. 
 
 "No service on Christmas. The ship continues to rise and fall 
 with the tide, her stem resting on the foot of the iceberg. At 
 neap-tide the leak might Ixi repaired — gradually, if not all at 
 once— by workifig a few hours at a time as tlie tide permit** ; but 
 no ordfTH are given to atU'mjit it. 
 
 *^J}tr. 28. A futile atu-mpt wm made Ut break tip the f«K)t of the 
 berg by blui«tin^, but it wjw too Ktronjj. The amount of |K>wder 
 necj'saary to blaMt it succeiwfully would endanger the nhip, an nhe 
 
 ''Jan, !,t«72. Tlie flm day of thf nf*w year, and «Mi/hty days 
 aiaee we lmv«* ««H»n thf *\m. Con«Ml«'ring Umj h'* •• ■■.•••i»«-«»n« <♦!<• 
 flMMi of whit-h tluM i-x^M-dtiioii ;« ornpoatdl, r . .methinK to 
 be tfuifikful for thM we all commt'tiotf Um> new year in giMMJ 
 
 M)tl wttlt>Mit any <^ti a:id tick now l«dpdl itiiiiiunii iil. 
 
 omMiilwniig^ im, vmm mmmmttmetm, I think remftrkablf . 
 ff Hr. fkmu X mmH brsr tlM an(m|p4iiiiefrti be felt mtnxtVi' 
 
 " Jlw. 1 Trwd tfM M i il ii if tpiH. wHk m htmt HMrik IRm 
 *»Jkm. i 7. It ». fm 99mmf'§Bm hmm ^m^ hm hem » 
 
172 AUCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 our dark days less gloomy. It is very cold ; the thermometer 
 stands at 48° below zero. Some of the atmospheric phenomena 
 are matters of dispute, or rather discussion, between the three 
 members of the Scientific Corps: for instance, on the 10th in- 
 stant, about 5 A.M., there was a bright arc observed in the sky, 
 extending from the western horizon toward the east, and reach- 
 ing up to the zenith ; it appeared to be about 12° from the 
 Milky Way, and parallel with it. This continued only about an 
 hour; but as it disappeared, there remained three cloud -like 
 shapes of about the same brightness, resting near the zenith. x\t 
 one time, some narrow, bright stripes were visible. Whether 
 this was to be considered as a true aurora, or as some unique 
 electrical phenomenon, was the query. 
 
 "f/a/i. 17. The twilight toward the south-east is visibly in- 
 creasing. How naturally every eye turns to that quarter, hop- 
 ing to see the arc of light extended. 
 
 '•«/«/i. 24. Can see water to ihe nortii, and perceive that the 
 ice is not closed, but drifting in the strait. Dr. Bessel has been 
 out this morning with two men and a sledge- team, to ascertain 
 if the open water extended any great distance — for it is too dark 
 to see far from the vessel, lie only made nine miles — to the 
 north ; he couKl not get fartiier on account of tlie headland, or 
 cape, being covered with smootii ice, over which the d<jgs could 
 not go nor the men climb. An far as he could see, it wa.s open 
 water. But it is yet too dark to accomplish any thing in the 
 way of exploration."*. On account of the darknesj*, they were un- 
 able to i'uul a j>a.**K. Tlje ice w;u4 ilrifting with the current. 
 
 *'./«»/*. 2*i. ^''■K^«•rday Mr. ClicsUr thought he wouM try. lie 
 tc»ok four lutM with iiiin, and a >\>>/.<m A<"" ♦'> draw the Mledges. 
 lie thought he ^vjtsl.i gel ov<m tin m.. , -. or fiml a imm 
 
 through tlM»m : i ut>uu( lo a.m.: i> 1 aljout four 
 
 o'ek^ck V baffled tu* I)r. IkagrI bwl \tw\i. Within 
 
 ite i.ust thnM*<ias vari«Hj fn«ii ^r t** 3r> 
 
 SI. A ▼IMHlaBoir iit4»nn the wind bhmtufi with hor- 
 
 mti #Mi mmm m m VMlMit §am k m mfmiikh fi»r tlir mm to 
 ii dmr : Ammktm, mmmMB to im^ tfw mmd ti«kl <ib> 
 
 ^. 1. 1971. Qilft i»iii—ig : Imm ammmti m vdbmjr 
 
THE HEIGHT OF TIDES. 
 
 173 
 
 miles per hour. To-day I went over to Cape Lupton to see what 
 I could make out. Cape Lupton is a bold headland, eighteen 
 hundred or two thousand feet high. I managed to get to the 
 top, and from that elevation saw that the ice was completely 
 cleared out of the channel ; in fact, there was free water every- 
 where except in the bay, the ship itself being firmly inclosed; 
 but for eighty miles to the north, had we been in the channel, we 
 could certainly have sailed in free water. 
 
 "/fi. 2. The tide-holes have been cleared out, and the usual 
 observations resumed. The tides vary from two and a half to 
 seven feet eight inches. The highest spring-tide yet observed 
 was seven feet eight inches ; the neap are from two and a half to 
 three feet rise. . ^ 
 
 •~-f«''-' t;?i " 
 
 i*. . 
 
 
174 AllCTlC EXPEiilENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 An impressive Discussion. — Daylight gains on the Night. — Barometer drops like a 
 Cannon-ball. — Four mock Moons. — Day begins to look like Day. — The P'ox-traps. 
 — Tlie Sun re-appears after an Absence of one humlred and tiiirty-five Days. — 
 Mock Suns. — Si)ring coming. — An Ex])loring-pariy in Searcii of Cape Constitu- 
 tion. — A Bear-tiglit with Dogs. — New light on Cartography. — Tired of canned 
 Meat. 
 
 "Last month sucb an astonishing proposition was made to 
 me that 1 liave never ceased thinking of it since. The time may 
 come when it may be proj)er for me to narrate all the circum- 
 stances. It grew out of a discus.sion as to the feasibility and ex- 
 pediency of attempting to get farther north ne.\t summer. My 
 own opinion is that we ought to do all we can to carry out Caj)- 
 tain Hall's wishes, and the just expectations of the Government 
 and the country. If the 8ea.son Hh<»uld prove as favorable as it 
 was last year, there is no reason why we should not reach the 
 pole itsi'lf It would l)e a lasting disgraw; not to utilize to tlie 
 utmost a ship tittctj out wiili such care and cxfK-nsi'. It is enough 
 to make Captain Hall titir in UIm ic^-cold gruvt; to hcur aoiiiu uf 
 the t^ilk that goes on. 
 
 '*The laitt gale madi' wild work with UiMMlftnd the bcrgf<; at 
 one time rlcaring tlx* Htniit of tli«' tioe-icf*, and driving it in a pack 
 bc&irt; It. The KM'lxTgM have aliio been drivcii togi'th<T. and the 
 htimmtx'kM thrown up in h<>af)ii m tf the very ice dttiiuttN lia<i 
 l>i'<'fi having one grand wt-t'». 
 
 A not))) .- utt* inpt to L"-t through or OVW ^M billa to Uie north ; 
 but Uie luKV party if"' r iIjmi tkm rmIL 
 
 " f^»4,. Th Tl»*' diivlifcfht ii« lifginnifiif i'» ga<ii 'm the n^()it a littie. 
 Ill < Amy w« AMI we to mnA wtikmAmMf^t, \mt 
 
 <am\f (m a litll« mUiim M a tint**, ine wmA Ham have tofii bttfti- 
 
 MMVv ^^VMMHI^K''HH9np 4 Wv ■■ W^^ I^^HW ■■Ww VIMH* QMHOI^t* 
 
 "M m. Ij^iite M^ 9m4 pimmmmt wmittim-^mAf tl* Mavr 
 
 fi*»tm tmtt>rm n^pnrtiHi. «b*^ i 4i<i MM 
 
FOUR MOCK-MOONS. 175 
 
 ^'Feb. 17. A sudden change ; barometer dropped like a cannon- 
 ball; sky suddenly overclouded, with violent squalls of wind 
 from the south-east, backing to the north-west, and then veering 
 again to the south-east; next, snow-drift. It is now blowing at 
 the rate of fifty-eight miles an hour. These gales last two or 
 three days; we have had them alternating with a few days of 
 pleasant weather nearly all the winter. 
 
 "/l/y. 21. The last gale continued with variable winds, and as 
 varying velocities, for three days. Last night there was another 
 paraselene, more complicated than the former. There were the 
 four false moons besides the true — five in all. The true nioo:i was 
 surrounded by a halo, which also embraced two of the false 
 ones ; while the other two had a separate halo, making a large 
 circle concentric with the first. The two mock moons nearest 
 to the true showed the prismatic colors. It was a beautiful and 
 cuiious sight 
 
 *'/W>. 22. Day is beginning to look like day, or rather dawn. 
 We do not see the stars any more in the middle of the day, but 
 neither do we see the sun yet For over three mouths we have 
 leen the stars in tiio day-time whenever thi; sky was unclouded, 
 and the moon wh<'n it was not stormy. Much of that time the 
 suirs were very bright and the ukhui also. 
 
 "Sumlni/, f-'ih. 2'k No tH?rvice; walked over to Captain Ilalli 
 KraTi'. Always Metm to walk lu that ilireetion. It is now get- 
 tinj< no mueh lighter that we »hall be able U) do -oin.tliing, I 
 hofM', iir»n. An yet, the hunting ban ainouiited t«i nolhin;; ; where 
 there in water an« <iay ict; in (bund the next. 
 
 ** Nothing Ui ri-etmi; tiriH a gale, thin a (inow itri#. ^«fi 
 m||ib11ii, tJwti fair weatbfr, and rt'peat Thw fc*rntula w«*uhl do 
 far the whtAe. winter, witli i*hght variilMimL 
 
 **M, m. A fi^anam iky. tkm Mm hm tkom^id himself onee 
 iBOfW. Hmn i i i i iii to be tk« ifM U» m-,' hirn. [f ii ha<i not imm 
 W9 Wtf wttm, we •nOIIICi MHNI MMM htm *. ur day \ti*§oife. 
 
 iMpMlM 0»***t tmm* warvniy *« '•*{, li m an*- 
 
 mm4 m»^'^ ^f> mmm mm kmn - P.kw 
 
176 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 ^^ March 2. 43° below. Variable weather until Wednesday the 
 13th, which was very pleasant, and in which we had a repetition 
 of the phenomenon of mock suns, instead of moons — a parhelia 
 of three false suns surrounding the true, and in this case, two of 
 the suns exhibited the primary colors. 
 
 "The hunters are very persevering, but they bring in nothing. 
 The animals have all migrated apparently either to the north or 
 south; but probably, as the sun gains strength, we shall find 
 something alive to repay our exertions. Since the appearance 
 of tiie sun our nights are less dark ; it can hardly be said to be 
 dark at all, but like a deepened twilight; and soon we shall not 
 have even that. 
 
 ''J/({/-cA 19. Have been removing the canvas housing from the 
 ship. Since the sun has a^ipeared, it has been discovered that 
 lantern light is very injurious to the eyes. It seems a little pre- 
 mature, for I sec a storm coming up. 
 
 ^' March 20. Last night a violent snow-storm. 
 
 "J/«/vA21. Gale continues. 
 
 " M'irch 22. Velocity of the gale fifty-three miles an hour. 
 
 '■'■ Murrh 23. Clearing ofV. Sent to examine the fox-traps; one 
 wiiite fox had been caught by the foot. The.*?*' traps have to be 
 {)laced .some distance from the siiip. The fo.xes an? very wary, 
 and readily scent <loga or men at a long distance. To-day, also, 
 Hans shot a female seal with embryo; Ijoth the skins and skele- 
 tons of th<»e have been prepare«l \\» Hpecimens, arnl will \ni pre* 
 nented to th(! Smithsonian Irmtitution at Wrtshington. 
 
 " M'irrh 27. WeatJK'r miid — alH>v»' z<'ro to-<lay. 1 to 3'' : much 
 wanner than we have ha*! it. A wind from th<* Houth-fa«t brinirf* 
 IM a light Mnow, but it dm'H not aj»fH;ar U* difn'jwe the t»nip< lu- 
 tart. Spring Im coming: mmwi bi.'-dn, thought to \n; partrid^iii, 
 were leMi yarttniay. AnotlM*r iJ«dfMnCMf«tiort, thm tiifie u> the 
 ncHttli, Ui examine tlw mxithcm f^m\—% fkm\ lying aliout twi-nty* 
 eifrhi mil«i uratli of Polartii Bay — Dr. BeiiBifl, Mr Bryari. and 4o*». 
 Timj Uikm ftinrtwii 40|^. an^i ' nUtwX Ui g»t aa fiv m C^pe 
 <?<iHi < it i iti<w i. 9mA to imkn mf^^j" ^m.! mmmmmmmk rihwiriaiioiiifc 
 
 **mmkm, ik M« wmm, km, 1 >" '^^ «tM«« Mm Ibr At iMi 
 
 wMPNt ^Mfft' 1V# 'MMhI MBMI IMMW ! ;j3MR0. 
 
 " S>nmiit% Mmtrk %%, flfffiaa i» it imMrt of tlir errw «# 
 
 ^konmm : kttt«i «iM Ihmw wmA mn - ti^mim TbaM lania if«» 
 
AX EXPLORING TAliTY. 177 
 
 the soutbern birds; feathers all white, so that they are not easily 
 seen, which is a great protection to them, but gives the gunner 
 much trouble. 
 
 " P.M. We were surprised to see Mr. Bryan and Joe coming 
 back without Dr. Bessel ; thought some accident had happened 
 to him. But it seems they had only broken their sledge, and had 
 come back for another, the doctor remaining on a little island in 
 the mouth of the fiord, where he had been made hajijiy by find- 
 ing some petrifactions. They had left all the stores with him. 
 
 ^^April 2. Yesterday Mr. Bryan and Joe, with Uans also, start- 
 ed off with two sledges to rejoin Dr. Bessel. Weather continues 
 fair, and we arc fitting up the boats for an exploring trip to the 
 north next month. 1 think myself it would be better to go in 
 .sledges ; for though there is open water there is also much float- 
 ing ice, and I am afraid the boats will be stove. But J am ready 
 to go any way that promises success, or chance it any way. 
 
 '•''April 8. Quite an excitement to-day — the party from the fiord 
 have returned, bringing with them a bear which Joe shot, and 
 also a seal. One of the dogs had been injured in the fight with 
 the bear, and is an object of great attention with the men. This 
 is a very [)lucky dog, and is called 'Bear;' it seems that it took sev- 
 eral severe blow.s from the pohir, wiiieh had made a better fight 
 than they sometimes do. Another dog hud been thrown with 
 such violence against an ice-hummock that it was left fur dead, 
 but the next day whowed itself at their camp nearly recovered. 
 
 "They have made some curiouH dineovrriea in regard to former 
 narveya. Having eroHned the HOutljern (iord, which i.s al>out 
 twenty-two mil<*i« wide, tlu-y traveled along ilu; ct>a.Ht for forty 
 inileH in !*<,'areh of (Ja|»e Cor»«titutiot», but did not (ind it it i*i 
 farther wiUth than it ih ftlactnl on the ehart: and a^ Dr. BesHcl 
 repo! ii;/ ^'oiK' -(oiith of the intitud<? whkli Dr. Kmm pstm 
 
 -m Morions hi'^hcKt without reaehinjr ih«' v:i\n-, it sbowM or>ncIu 
 •ively that tbefe was a mtiAake mad«' m xXw, iatituikt. Th<'y could 
 m^" the ialand, }iow?ver, which litai *M Uw mifm hr to Um? tioiith. 
 InUi ihe lint fiorci, whtch wi- ImkI mMtA dU * ii l« lliii n; they 
 «mI4 mitt pMMlnlt wmm than lmmt§ miiai an mmmm of tlie 
 
 nth wbk'h it waa filled ; but liaving mmtm^ 
 #1 mmm et ^b«t, A^f mtM tm tliat tlw fl9«4 turmitiMMi m m 
 
 m • tmtk I— <t rt y Mtmllm i» ter aa A» 
 flw ikmm 9«M Mgb md »»siijr. M mmm 
 
178 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 points the rocks were almost perpendicular, and from six to sev- 
 en hundred feet high. 
 
 " South of this fiord they found another, smaller — not named — 
 which was also beset with icebergs, and apparently between thirty 
 and forty miles long. Several glaciers were seen, but, I believe, 
 not examined. It was in this most southerly fiord that the bear 
 was killed. They went as far south as 80° 45' N. Hans, who 
 was with Morton when he supposed he had seen the open Polar 
 Sea, perceived on this occasion that he was farther north than he 
 had been then. The party would have pushed on to Cape Con- 
 stitution, but could not get their sledges over the steep hills along 
 the coast, and the shore-ice was so invaded by open water that 
 they could not venture to trust to it. As it was, they had to car- 
 ry their sledges at several points. 
 
 '■'■April 16. Mercury has fallen several degrees — getting much 
 colder; the strait now choked with ice, which has drifted in, 
 filling it as far as the eye can see. From the summit of Prov- 
 idence Berg there is no open water visible. The weather is fine 
 and calm, but cold. The sun is continually above the true ho- 
 rizon now, though at times hidden from our view by the hills. 
 We may now say it is always day. 
 
 '■'■April 19. The two Esquimaux have gone off on a hunt. 
 There is u general desire for some fresh meat. We have every 
 thing on board but this. There was nothing spared in the out- 
 fit of the Polaris. All the canned food has turned out good, and 
 some of iu is really excellent; but a change of diet is desirable, 
 and fresh meat is necessary for health in these regions. 
 
 BKAI.3. 
 
OFF ON A SLEDGE-JOURNEY. 179 
 
 CHAPTER Xlir. 
 
 Sledge vs. Boat. — What Chester would do when he got Home. — Photographing a 
 Faihire. — Off on a Sledge-joiiniey with Vr. Meyers, Joe, and Hans. — Habits of 
 the Musk -cattle. — Peculiar strategic Position. — Encounter a Herd. — How the 
 Young are concealed. — Dull Sport. — Newman Bay. — Preparing for Boat-jour- 
 neys. — What does he mean? — Climatic Changes. — Glaciers. — Wonderful Sports- 
 men. — The Ice thick and hummocky. — A dangerous Leak. 
 
 "Dr. Bessel wishes to go in sledges to the north. He has 
 made a formal request to the captain to that effect. I believe 
 he got for answer that 'he' (Bud.) 'intended to take the boats 
 and go north himself.' But no one thinks he will go. I wish 
 to go with a sledge myself, and shall soon make the proposition, 
 
 ^^ April 23. Joe and Hans have returned from their hunt. Have 
 had good success, having shot seven musk-oxen. They had to 
 leave three in the igloo they had built, as the dogs could only 
 haul four. A stiff breeze from the north-east. 
 
 "Had a talk with Chester about the astounding proposition 
 made to me in the winter. We agreed that it was monstrous, 
 and must be prevented. Chester said he was determined, when 
 he got home, to expose the matter. 
 
 '^ April 27. Mr. Chester, with the two Esquimaux and one of 
 the men, took a couple of sledges and went off for the musk-oxen 
 left in the hut; also to find open water, if they can. 
 
 "i/ay 1. Had a talk with Captain Buddington about a sledge- 
 journey to the north ; he did not think it practicable. Why he 
 thinks thus, I know not; it could not do any harm for me to 
 try. Perhaps he may change his mind yet. 
 
 "Dr. Bessel has been trying to get some photographs; so far, 
 not much success. He tried to photograph Captain Hall's grave; 
 but it was too dark then. 
 
 "Three days ago, a gale with snow-drift sent the ship against 
 the berg, causing her to careen considerably. Have set men to 
 cut away the i-^e so as to free her before high water, or worse 
 damage wi'- "ome of it, 
 
 "P.M. Mr. Cde^. - and party returned; they had started in the 
 
180 
 
 AKCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 direction of Newman Bay, but got only about twenty miles. 
 Could not tell about the water, whether it was open or not, as 
 they had taken an inland course. They had met with some 
 musk-oxen, and killed two. Bear -tracks have been observed 
 within half a mile of the ship, and consequently no one cares to 
 go fur unarmed. 
 
 ^'■Sunday. Yesterday a sharp storm from the north, with furi- 
 ous snow-drift, which continued until this morning. The veloc- 
 ity of the gale was rated at lifty-three miles per hour. 
 
 '•'' Matj 9. I have at last got a couple of sledges, to try and get 
 to the northward ; Mr. Meyers, Joe, and Hans will accompany me. 
 We start now (-i a.m.); shall get to Newman Bay, and farther, 
 if possible. 
 
 '■'■May^ Evening. Got back to the ship, having been gone six 
 days. We took an east-north-east direction inland, and succeed- 
 ed in reaching Newman Bay, and from thence went on in the 
 same general direction, inclining more to the north, until we reach- 
 ed lat. 82° 9'. Mr. Meyers surveyed the shores of Newman Bay. 
 At the end of this there is a glacier, such as is found in so many 
 of the bays and fiords of Greenland, I paid my principal atten- 
 tion to getting game, as the ship's company was in want of fresh 
 meat. There was plenty to be found ; I soon noticed the tracks 
 of musk-oxen, all showing that they had come from the south- 
 east. Newman Bay runs south-east and north-west, and the oxen 
 came from the interior — from the head of the bay. One day we 
 came upon a large herd of them. They act very curiously when 
 
SHOOTING MUSK-CATTLE. 181 
 
 attacked. They all form round in a circle, stern to stern, and 
 so await an attack. The dogs surround them and keep them at 
 bay. Now and then a dog gets tossed. Joe and I fired and re- 
 loaded as fast as we could; the animfils made no rush at us. 
 We killed eight, and the rest ran off. Having secured our slain, 
 we hauled one of them to the encampment. We had a heavy 
 piece of butchering to do to skin it, and cut up the best pieces to 
 save for the ship. 
 
 " The next day wc followed up the trail, and came up with 
 them ; bagged four more ; but we were too far from camp to get 
 them there without more help. These cattle develop their great 
 weight on what looks like very slender diet; their food is the 
 moss and lichens which grow on the rocks, and to obtain it they 
 have first to scrape away the snow with their hoofs. I forgot 
 to mention that there were some calves with the herd, three of 
 which were killed. We did not see them at first, for at the ap- 
 proach of danger the young ones get under the parents' body, 
 and the hair of the musk-ox is so long that, almost touching the 
 ground, it hangs like a curtain before t'le young, completely con- 
 cealing them from view. The musk-ox is a very heavy crea- 
 ture ; several of those which we shot would weigh from five to 
 six hundred pounds apiece. Their legs are very short in pro- 
 portion to their size and weight. It is not very exciting sport, 
 for there is no more chance of missing them than the side of a 
 house. When they have been checked by the dogs, and got 
 themselves in a circle, there is nothing to do but to walk up and 
 shoot them. 
 
 "Saw a few white foxes; they are very different from the 
 musk-ox, and will lead one a fine chase ; and it requires a skillful 
 marksman to hit them, for they are so swift in their movements, 
 and so cunning, you think you have them, and the next moment 
 they are out of sight. We saw no reindeer nor wolves. These 
 Esquimaux dogs are wolves enough for me. We saw very little 
 open water — a few leads in the floes, and that was all. 
 
 " Newman Bay would average seven miles in width, and is 
 sixty or seventy in length. There appear to be two small islands 
 near the head of it. 
 
 "Sent off the two Esquimaux and two of the men, to bring home 
 the rest of the musk-meat. We brought eight, and four calves. 
 
 "A few lemmings (the M. iorquatus) have been seen. One of 
 
182 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 the men caught a live one, and the carpenter found a dead one. 
 These lemmings are small gnawing mammals. Sometimes called 
 the Arctic mouse, they diflfer considerably from the common, in 
 having sharp sickle-shaped claws, the two middle ones of the 
 fore feet being extraordinarily long for a creature only about five 
 inches in its whole length. These creatures inhabit the southern 
 as well as the north Polar regions, but are not found elsewhere. 
 They do, however, work down a little below the Arctic circle to- 
 ward Hudson Bay, They burrow in sphagnous swamps in sum- 
 mer, and between stones and rocks in winter, where they feed on 
 roots and moss. When they travel they make a perfectly straight 
 course, and only an absolutely insurmountable obstacle is suffi- 
 cient to turn them aside. 
 
 ^'' May 20. One of the boats has been sent over the ice on sledges 
 to Cape Lupton, four miles to the northward, as that was the only 
 place to launch her. Between here and there, the channel being 
 narrower, the ice is still packed ; above Cape Lupton open water 
 appears earlier than in our vicinity. The ice up there looks 
 weak. Weather very pleasant now; the snow disappearing 
 from the mountains, and the pack-ice softening. Another sledge- 
 expedition, with Joe and Ilans, has gone to bring to the ship the 
 remaining musk-oxen, also the snow -tents and sleeping-bags, 
 which were left on the preceding trip. 
 
 '■^May 24, 25. Another boat has been transported to Cape Lup- 
 ton, and provisions and stores are now being forwarded. Noth- 
 ing will do but explorations by boat. I am going in one, though 
 I have expressed my opinion plainly that we could do nothing 
 with boats at this time of the year. The ice begins to move and 
 the water to show between the cracks, but the strong current 
 packs it in the narrow channel, 
 
 " P,M, Hans found a piece of an Esquimau sledge on some ele- 
 vated ground about three miles from the ship, to the northward 
 of our position, toward Cape Lupton, It had doubtless been 
 there a long time, but shows that the Esquimaux have formerly 
 inhabited this region. It may be that it was only a summer en- 
 campment, but every thing indicates that they have been here, 
 and most likely they came from the west coast. They would 
 hardly come overland from Southern Greenland, because they 
 could not pass the glaciers which pour down the eastern coast, 
 particularly the great Humboldt Glacier, which flows from an 
 
WONDERFUL SJ'ORTSMEN. 183 
 
 immense inland mer de ylace. There are many things which in- 
 dicate that the climate of North Greenland has altered since its 
 early history, and that it is much colder now than it was then. 
 
 '■^ April 30. Two of the men who had been off on a long walk 
 reported that they had seen tracks of bears near some fresh-water 
 ponds, and also musk-oxen. Two of the latter were resting on 
 the snow at the foot of a hill, near one of these ponds. At a dis- 
 tance of several hundred yard:^ the creatures perceived the men, 
 and suddenly rose, when the men fired at ihem. While Sieman 
 was reloading, Kruger called his attention to the fact that one of 
 the animals was making for him. in the rear, and was coming on 
 at all speed. Sieman retreated, to get an opportunity to reload. 
 In the mean time the valorous creature was joined by the others, 
 when they halted, and assumed their particular tactics, heretofore 
 described. The men, both of whom had retreated to a consider- 
 able disiat.cp, being surprised at the animal showing fight, fired 
 again, killing the female, which instantly fell, while the male, with 
 the calf, ^ook to flight. We afterward ascertained that in accom- 
 plishing this feat they had expended three hundred halls ! One 
 of the men admitted he had fired seventy shots. They did not 
 pursue the fugitive. After hearing their story, five of the crew 
 volunteered to go oat V7ith a sleigh and bring home the game, 
 and also to try and find the two which had escaped. 
 
 "i/a?/ 31. The men have returned with the three animals, hav- 
 ing discovered and killed the male and calf. Some bares were 
 seen, but none taken. Some of the men go out every few days 
 hunting. A partridge and snow-bird were shot to-day. The 
 Esquimaux have been off to Newman Bay, and brought back 
 fwo seals. 
 
 "e/wne 3. The ship has made so much water that the donkey- 
 engines have been started ; after four hours' work she was pret- 
 ty well freed for the time, but unless the leak is stopped it will 
 get worse. 
 
 "June 4. At the request of Captain Buddington, I went to-day 
 about twenty -five miles northward to examine the state of the 
 ice, and to report to him upon the prospects of success for a 
 boat expedition. Joseph Mauch accompanied me. I found the 
 ice closely impacted, very rough, thick, and hummocky; not 
 only filling the channel, but crushing against the land. I exam- 
 ined carefully for leads, but could see none ; continued on the 
 
184 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 search for about twenty- eight hours, and then returned to the 
 ship. I sent in my report in writing to Captain Buddington, ex- 
 pressing my opinion that nothing could be done with boats at 
 that time. 
 
 "e/wne 5. The continued warm weather is telling on the snow 
 ana ice which surrounds the vessel ; the ice is loosened, and the 
 vessel, feeling the water, is rising steadily. 
 
 " Discovered to-day a dangerous leak on the starboard side of 
 . the stern, at the six-foot mark ; two planks were badly split. No 
 wonder; the strain has been tremendous, with her stem resting 
 on the foot of the iceberg above the level of the stern all winter. 
 In the men's quarters, in the forepart of the ship, they say they 
 can hear the water entering at flood-tide. 
 
 ^'■June 6. Some attempt made to stop the leak; have not ''■et 
 succeeded. Chester has been out, and reports that there is now 
 a practicable opening for the boats. 
 
TWO BOAT-PARTIES AKllANGED. 185 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Two Boat-parties arranged. — A Disaster. — Chester's Boat crashed in the Ice. — The 
 "Historical Flag" lost. — Chester takes the patent Canvas Boat. — Captain Tyson's 
 Boat-party. — Reach Newman Bay. — Dr. Bessel's Know-blindness. — Drift-wood. 
 — Extinct Glaciers. — Unfavorable Condition of the Ice. — A Proposal rejected. — 
 Return to the Ship. 
 
 • 
 
 " Our parties arc now arranged, Mr. Chester will take charge 
 of one boat, and with him will go Mr. Meyers and four men : Fr. 
 Jamka, F. Anthing, II. Sieman, and Kruger. I shall take the oth- 
 er boat, and will be accompanied by Dr. Bessel and four men : II. 
 Ilobby, F. Jansen. William Lindemann, and G. Lindquist. 
 
 '■'■June, 7, 8 p.m. Mr. Chester's party left the ship with a sledge- 
 load of things for his boat, which is awaiting him at Cape Lup- 
 ton, 
 
 ^^ June 9, P.M. Chester's party have all returned, having had 
 the misfortune to lose their boat, and nearly their lives. This 
 boat was named the Grant, after the President. It happened in 
 this way: they got launched about noon yesterday, and after 
 rowing about a mile were stopped by a large floe, on which they 
 halted, and drew up the boat. Discovering open water ahead in 
 the afternoon, about a quarter of a mile off, they hauled her over 
 the floe, and again launched her in open water; but the ice clos- 
 ing about them, they only succeeded in getting a little over a 
 mile, when they were compelled to pull up again on to a floe — 
 this time between two icebergs grounded on the shore — a very 
 dangerous position ; for at this time of the year — indeed, at any 
 time during the continuance of warm weather — icebergs may ex- 
 plode at any moment. 
 
 " Here they set up their tent and prepared to spend the night, 
 F, Anihing had the watch ; Mr, Chester and Mr. Meyers I'ad 
 lain down about twenty yards from the boat; three of the men 
 were lying in the tent close to the boat. Suddenly the watch 
 shouted out, ^The ice is coming P All immediately sprang to 
 their feet and made for the shore. They had hardly cleared the 
 icebergs, when the heavy floe, full of hummocks, came on with 
 
ia6 ARCTIC EXI'KRIENCES. 
 
 such force as to shatter one of the bergs, which fell with a great 
 crash, crushing the boat to pieces; at the same time the })ack-iee 
 crowded in blocks, lapping and overlapping each other; and for 
 a time it seemed that they would lose all ; but after a while the 
 pressure ceased, and they managed to get out on the ice and save 
 some of their things. Mr. Meyers was very fortunate in saving 
 his, but the others lost every thing. Mr. Chester lost even his 
 journal, and the historical flag which Mr. Grinnell had presented 
 to Captain Hall just before the Polaris sailed." [This appears to 
 have been subsequently recovered. — Ed.\ " When this accident 
 happened they were only about seven milts from the ship, so 
 there was no difficulty in walking back; but they had to take 
 another boat. 
 
 " 1 called the cape near which they lost the boat Cape Disas- 
 ter, and the bay they were on, beyond Cape Luj)ton, Folly Bay, 
 which I believe was rather disj^leasing to Mr. Chester. He is 
 going to take the patent canvas boat and start again in a day .or 
 two. 
 
 '■'■June 10. I start this P.M., with Dr. Bessel and four men. 
 
 " Newman Bay, June 12. Arrived here without much trouble, 
 working at intervals as I could get a lead through the ice; we 
 are stopped here by a heavy pack to the northward. The chan- 
 nel is open southward to the ship, but completely closed ahead. 
 Must camp here, and have hauled up the boat until the ice opens 
 and gives us a lead. Have set up our tent, and await the move- 
 ment of the ice. Dr. Bessel's eyes are bad, and he can do noth- 
 ing; he is troubled with snow -blindness. I take my gun in 
 hopes of finding game, but dare not go out of sight of the boat, 
 lest I should miss a chance of working up, should a lead open. 
 The boat is heavy, and all hands are needed to handle her. 
 Shot some eider-ducks, gulls, and dovekies; saw some brent 
 geese. 
 
 '■June 17. Mr. Chester has at last arrived in that patent boat; 
 she is dreadfully slow — makes about three miles an hour. They 
 got started two days after I left, and have been all the week get- 
 ting up here. 
 
 " They started at noon on the 12th from north of Cape Lupton, 
 to which they were brought in dog -sledges by Joe and Hans, 
 who returned to the ship; but that day could not find a lead. 
 The next day they got launched, and worked along through a 
 
EXTINCT GLACIERS. 187 
 
 narrow opening for between two and three miles, when they had 
 to haul up, and draw the boat ashore on account of the ice. 
 Twenty four hours later they got another start, worked her 
 through a mile and a half, and then drew up on a floe, not be- 
 ing able to reach the shore on account of heavy pack-ice and 
 bergs, which kept them off. During that night a strong north 
 wind began to drift the ice they were on ; and being unable to 
 escape, they were drifted back on their couroe all night, and in 
 the morning found themselves south of Cape Lupton. About 
 7 A.M. the ice separated, and they got a lead to the north, and 
 joined us. 
 
 " At present we can get no farther, as there is no open water ; 
 but as the ice is setting south, we hope the channel will be clear- 
 ed before long. Weather is pleasant. Little willows, that are 
 more like a vine than trees, running only a few inches from the 
 ground, are found in the ravines. Mosses and flowers are now 
 to be seen everywhere. The doctor has been suffering from 
 snow-blindness, and will return to the "ship at the first opportu- 
 nity, lie is quite discouraged. A little drift-wood has been 
 picked up on the bay shore, apparently small branches of trees, 
 very much worn and wave - tossed. All the pieces are quite 
 small — the largest two or three feet long, and two and a half or 
 three inches thick ; most of the pieces much smaller. The men 
 burned some to make a fire, but Di'. Bessel has saved some speci- 
 mens. It was not easy telling what they were. The experts 
 thought they were black- walnut, ash, and red pine. There is 
 nothing which grows around here any thing like it. 
 
 ''Mr. Meyers brought with him a copper cylinder, and having 
 made a record of Captain Hall's death, with latitude and longi- 
 tude of the place of deposit, a hole was dug in the ground, into 
 which the cylinder was put, and then stones piled over it in such 
 a form as would at once be recognized as artificial, if any other 
 humun eyes are destined to gaze around on this solitary place. 
 
 " There appear signs around Newman Bay of extinct glaciers, 
 as the moraines may be seen on the shores ; but at present there 
 is only one at the head. 
 
 "June 24:. The ice-floes still fill the channel. One compact 
 field of ice stretched quite across, grazing the shoies both east 
 and west, as it went on its southerly course at the rate of nine 
 or ten miles a day. 
 
188 ARCTIC expp:kiexces. 
 
 "Chester's party are not very comfortable in their canvas boat. 
 She is not tit for such rough sailing as we have to encounter; it 
 is square fore and aft, and the slowest craft I ever saw. She 
 would do for a party of children to paddle about on a calm and 
 placid lake; but you might as well put an egg-shell in the way 
 of an ice-pack as this patent contrivance. 
 
 ^^June 27. Have made several attempts to get farther to the 
 north, but have not been able to force a way through the pack. 
 If we had sledges and the dogs, we might have done something. 
 We have not been above 81° 57' 26". The last two days, strong 
 northerly breeze, with snow-squalls. 
 
 "It becoming daily more apparent that nothing could be done 
 with the boats, I proposed to Chester to unite our two crews and 
 organize a pedestrian exploring-party. My plan was to go on 
 ahead, either alone or with one or two companions, and divide 
 all the rest of the company into squads, or rather couples, who 
 should follow in a given direction — as nearly due north as the 
 lay of the land permitted; and that each party following should 
 make caches at certain described intervals, so that we should have 
 had something to eat on the return journey. In this way, taking 
 our guns with us to assist in procuring food, we could have 
 walked to the pole itself if the land extended so far, without any 
 insuperable difficulty during the Arctic summer, when game of 
 various kinds is so abundant; but I could get no one to join. 
 Some were indisposed to the exertion of walking, and some did 
 not know how to use the compass, and were probably afraid of 
 getting lost; and so that project fell through. I then consulted 
 with Mr. Chester about waiting and trying to get farther north. 
 He, as well as I, was anxious to get up to the 83°, if possible. If 
 the ship would have waited for us, there might have been an op- 
 portunity; but Captain Buddington had told me plainly, if he 
 ' got a chance to get out he would not wait ;' so that there seemed 
 no other course to pursue but to get back to the Polaris. 
 
 '■^ July 4:. Keceived orders uom Captain Buddington to return, 
 to the ship. Mr. Chester says ' he won't go.' He had sent two 
 of his men for additional provisions, and Buddington wished to 
 detain them, but, at their urgent request, allowed them to return, 
 and sent the order by them. They report the ship leaking badly. 
 
 "Overheard two of the men talking; they 'thouglit, if the 
 captain got a good chance, be would sail south without waiting 
 
RETURN TO THE SHIP, 
 
 189 
 
 for any one.' They were very cool, and said they ' didn't care,' 
 appearing to think they could get down the coast in boats before 
 cold weather set in. 
 
 '"''Juhj 6. Uans came up on a sledge, brin^nng a written order 
 to Chester to return, which he passed to me. Dr. Bessel took the 
 opportunity of going back on the sledge with Hans. The state 
 of the ice is such that we can get neither north nor south with the 
 boats. It has turned out just as I said it would; with sledges 
 we might have done something. As there was no using the boat, 
 I concluded to haul mine up in as safe a place as I could find, 
 and then walk back to the ship. Our boat was so heavy, with 
 its contents, that my crew was not sufficient to haul it over the 
 rough hummocky ice, and Chester let me have some of his crew 
 to assist. We were between Cape Brevoort and Cape Sumner 
 when we started, and it took us nearly forty-eight hours of most 
 fatiguing labor to reach v, ravine near Cape Sumner, where the 
 boat could be partly protected, and there we hauled her up, 
 placing the tent, and what stores I was obliged to leave, as well 
 secured as possible, and, this accomplished, set out to walk to the 
 ship. 
 
 ^'Juhj 8. Back again on board the Polaris. Stood the walk 
 of over twenty miles very well. So did the men. 
 
 AEOTIC WOLVES. 
 
190 
 
 ARCTIC EXI'ERIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Engirjcer's Report. — A new Inscription. — A gentle Awakening. — Providence Berg 
 disrupted. — Having "enough of it." — Lost Opportunities. — The Advent of little 
 Esquimau "Charlie Polaris." — Beset near ('ape Frazier. — Alcohol Master. — 
 Interruption of his morning "Nip." — Drifting with the Floe. — Pack-ice in Smith 
 Sound. — The Oil-boiler. — The bearded Seal. — Preparations for spending another 
 Winter in the North. — A south-westerly Gale. 
 
 "Mr. Sciiuman, the engineer, reports that the pumps had be- 
 come clioked, and that some water had got into the lower hold, 
 and injured a quantity of provisions. 
 
 OBAVE OF OAPTAIN UALU 
 
 "As there is no probability that we shall be allowed to do any 
 thing more — the captain being in waiting for an opportunity to 
 get south — I have been over to see if Captain Ilall's grave had 
 
A NEW INSCRIPTION, 191 
 
 been put in order ; when he was buried it was too dark to work, 
 and the ground frozen too hard to do much except cover it with 
 stones for security. There was a board at the head, with the in- 
 scription, written in pencil, by the engineer, Mr. Schuman : 
 
 '"TO THE MEMORY OF C. F. HALL, 
 
 LATE COMMANDER OF THE NORTH POLAR EXPEDITION. 
 
 Died Nov. 8, 1871. 
 
 Aged 50 Years.' 
 
 Some of the men, particularly Sieman, took great interest in se- 
 curing the grave. Captain Ilall was generally liked by the men. 
 
 "Mr, Chester has sent in three of his men. They walked the 
 distance in twelve hours; but Mr. Meyers was twenty-eight hours 
 on his way. He got caught in a snow-drift shortly after starting, 
 and, being in danger of losing his way, was obliged to seek the 
 shelter of a rock until the storm abated. The men report that 
 Mr. Chester, with one man, Sieman, remained to try and save his 
 boat. Perceiving that he could not get north, he started to get 
 his boat ashore, which the roughness of the ice made very diffi- 
 cult; on the way they dropped many things, and had to go back 
 for them. After about ten hours' hard labor and travel, they 
 reached the ^and where I had left my boat, pretty well broken 
 down, Howe er, they got to the shore, and leaving the boat as 
 it was, made th ^ best of their way to the ship, bringing such 
 clothing and other things as they could carry, 
 
 "Jwty 24. A gale from the north, which I hope will blow the 
 ice out of the bay, 
 
 '■'■Julli 25. Cleared off; the bay partially opened; much water 
 in the hold. I wanted the captain to divide the crew into three 
 watches, and so have all hands take a turn at the pumps, to save 
 fuel. Shortly after there was a sudden accession of water in the 
 hold, and it was suggested to the captain that some one in the 
 engine-room had willfully opened the stop-cocks and flooded her, 
 so thfit those in favor of hand-pumping 'should have enough of 
 it' Captain Buddington went down to the engine-room to see 
 about it, but had the door shut in his face for his pains! lie has 
 now divided the company into two watches for pumping; but 
 after the first flood was got rid of, the ship was easily kept free 
 with from two to four minutes pumping every hour. Some of 
 the timbers appear to have swollen and closed the seams. 
 
192 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 " I talked with Chester about fixing Captain Hall's grave ; and 
 he got a board and shaped it out properly, and cut the inscrip- 
 tion in very nicely ; and then we fixed it up, so that the grave 
 now looks, though dreary enough, not quite so neglected as it did. 
 
 " The channel still full of pack-ice and heavy floes. 
 
 ^^Atig. 1. Still in Polaris Bay. What opportunities have been 
 lost! and the expedition is to be carried back only to report a 
 few geographical discoveries, and a few additional scientific facts. 
 With patience we might have worked up beyond Newman Bay, 
 and there is no telling how much farther. Some one will some 
 day reach the pole, and I envy not those who have prevented 
 the Polaris having that chance. 
 
 " Several of the men have gone back to Newman Bay to try 
 and recover some valuable instruments of Meyers's, and other 
 things which were left there. They brought back all they could 
 carry, and reported the channel off the bay to be full of ice. The 
 tent they left. Three boats lost on that ill-considered trip. 
 
 ^^Aug. 12. The wife of the Esquimau, Ilans, has added a male 
 member to the expedition. These natives have not outgrown 
 some of their savage customs. Like the squaws of our Western 
 Indians and other uncivilized people, the women are left alone 
 in the exigencies of childbirth, and free themselves, like the in- 
 ferior mammals, by severing the umbilical with their teeth. They 
 very soon recover, but in the settlements various customs sup- 
 posed to conduce to the welfare of the child are deemed neces- 
 sary. Among other things, the clothes of the mother are always 
 abandoned or destroyed, and are never worn again. The boy 
 has been named, by acclamation, 'Charlie Polaris;' thus combin- 
 ing a remembrance of our late commander and the sh^p. 
 
 " P.M. This afternoon, the ice opening, and a good lead of wa- 
 ter appearing, with a northerly wind, we weighed anchor, and 
 steamed out of Polaris Bay about five o'clock. 
 
 ^Aug. 15. Last night, at midnight, in Kennedy Channel, head- 
 ing for Cape Frazier, during my watch, Mr. Bryan, with Chester, 
 was out on the ice making some astronomical observations. 
 When I went below, instead of the ship being kept to her course, 
 she was allowed to fall off, and thus got beset in the broad wa- 
 ters of Peabody Bay, or Kane Basin, as it is sometimes called. 
 About 8 A.M. we were enabled to get her headed right again, but 
 could make no progress, and anchored to a floe in lat. 80° 2' N. 
 
DRIFTING WITH THE FLOE. 193 
 
 " We have only ice-anchors now ; our ground-tackle has been 
 broken or lost. One was broken when Providence Berg split 
 up, by the weight of a heavy mass of ice which fell on it, and the 
 other was lost under grounded ice when the berg pressed us in- 
 shore. 
 
 " Fuel we are rather short of. A great d-^al was used in work- 
 ing the donkey-engines, when hand -pumping would have an- 
 swered, and the men were willing to pump ; some of them even 
 commenting on the waste of coal. There is a quantity of pro- 
 visions left ashore at Polaris Bay, 
 
 " Our floe is drifting, and taking the vessel with it, slowly to 
 the southward ; we are at present in charge of the current, as 
 there is no wind. Open water appearing to the south during the 
 night, got up a good head of steam, and tried to force the vessel 
 through the ice which beset us, but did not succeed, and had to 
 tie up to the floe again. Got a start about noon, the ice loosen- 
 ing. We hauled in our ice -anchors, and made good progress. 
 Weather fair, and wind southerly. Passed Cape Constitution, 
 and proceeded until near midnight, when the ice closed around 
 us again, and we anchored to the floe. 
 
 " Oct. 16. Still drifting with the floe. Ice opening here and 
 there, but we get no chance ; but probably shall soon, as nar- 
 whals have appeared, and they always breathe through the large 
 ice-cracks. Saw several to-day. 
 
 " P.M. Thick and fofjgv. Bv observation at noon lat. 79° 59'. 
 
 " Oct. 19. Fog hung about us for twelve hours, then cleared by 
 a fresh northerly breeze. No lead visible, and we still drift with 
 the floe. 
 
 " 12 M. Tried to shift the position of the vessel, as we are in 
 danger of being nipped ; the ice is very heavj/, and strong press- 
 ure. There is now a quantity of stores, clothing, and some bags 
 of coal kept on deck, so that they may be at hand to throw over- 
 board in case of necessity. The ice in Smith Sound varies very 
 much in diiferent seasons. This sort of pack-ice baffled Kane in 
 July and August, between Cape Parry and the Gary Islands, but 
 it has been traversed in August by several explorers without 
 difficulty, from the time of old William Baffin down. There 
 seems no rule about it ; probably depends on the force and direc- 
 tion of the winds when the ice begins to break up in the north. 
 The weather is fine, 
 
 18 
 
194 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. 
 
 " Oct. 23. Made a few miles, then found something was the 
 matter with the boileis, and had to draw the fires. The ship 
 making considerable water, the hand-pumps were kept going: if 
 this veisel had not been very strong she could not have gone 
 througii what she has. Boilers repaired; and on ihe morning of 
 ;;he 26th got up steam again, and pushed forward about half a 
 mile, working toward the shore, as the heavy pack is in the mid- 
 ' die, and we hoped to find a lead between it and the shore ice. 
 
 " P.M. Towed the ship through a narrow opening for a short 
 distance, but beset again, and oblig.u to desist. So we pass the 
 days — boring a few rods or a quarter of a mile, then tying up 
 again, to repeat the process, with slight variations, through the 
 days and nights. All around us lies the pack-ice, with large 
 bergs in sight, some grounded, and others like sentinels watch- 
 ing the progress of the floe to which we are fast. Young ice has 
 formed over the open water, strong enough to bear. Snow and 
 rain and fog have succeeded each other. Kain is rather a cu- 
 riosity; but we have had a little to vary the meteorological 
 changes. 
 
 '■'■Sept.X. Our summer is almost over; the days are visibly 
 shortening. A steady, slow drift to the southward. Some seal 
 have appeared. Nothing to record. 
 
 "-&p^. 13. Have reached lat. 79° 21' 30". Some walruses 
 have been seen ; Hans has shot a seal, and Joe fired at a walrus, 
 but their hides are so thick, and their heads so impenetrable that 
 it is difficult to either kill or secure them without lance or har- 
 poon. 
 
 " Sept. 21. Our coal is getting so short that I think the destruc- 
 tion of the oil-boiler will yet be regretted. This boiler was made 
 expressly for the use of the expedition, on the presumption that 
 we should be absent two years or more, and of course we could 
 not store coal enough to be absent all that time ; and it was ex- 
 pected that blubber or seal-oil could be used for fuel. But what 
 portion of it that did not go overboard between Disco and Tossac 
 was left at Polaris Bay ; and that was the end of our ' oil-boiler.' 
 
 " The meat of the seal is now very welcome to the men, as a 
 change from the canned food. And the blubber, too, will soon 
 be needed, for cook and steward have used up the kerosene ad 
 libitum to kindle fires. 
 
 " The last day of September has come, and though the open 
 
THE BEARDED SEAL. 1C;5 
 
 water can be seen to the southward, we can not get to it; water 
 is also visible to the north, but we are kept in the p.ick. But 
 the ice keeps working, and a strong gale, I think, would open it. 
 During the last six weeks we have done little except dril't, wich 
 now and then a spurt at the engines. In this time we have made 
 about sixty miles — about ten miles a week, and mostly drifting. 
 At 12 M. our latitude was found to be 70° 2' N. ; and the tempera- 
 ture begins to suggest the coming winter: it is a little below zero. 
 
 " Oct. 4. October came in fair and clear. Have passed Rens- 
 selaer Harbor, where Dr. Kane wintered during 1853-55. I am 
 surprised that in the latitude of Eensselaer Harbor he should have 
 found the darkness so intense as he describes it. It was not to- 
 tally dark with us at high meridian at any time in clear weather, 
 but it was too dark to travel about much, or do any shooting, 
 unless it was full of the moon. The ice keeps groaning, as if a 
 change of some kind was impending. There is little chance of 
 getting home this fall. We shall have to spend another winter 
 here, I expect. If we were heading the other way, I should not 
 mind that; but to go home without having done all we could is 
 galling. 
 
 "Yesterday Joe shot a large bearded seal of uncommon size 
 even for this species — eight feet long and six in circumference. 
 
 " Mr. Meyers is not very well — looks as though he had a touch 
 of scurvy, fe jal meat and blood is a specific against that disease ; 
 the Esquimaux rarely have it, and they live nearly altogether on 
 seal-meat. 
 
 " Have commenced work on a house in which to store provis- 
 ions, as there is no telling when the ship may get nipped. I 
 wanted some lumber from the ship to build it, but could get 
 only poles and canvas. Into this house we shall remove a quan- 
 tity of provisions; and keep clothing, guns, and ammunition 
 ready on deck to heave over at the shortest notice. 
 
 " Oct. 4, 5. Four more seals killed ; house nearly finished ; 
 light snow. There is no more doubt that we must winter here. 
 The men are cutting fresh -water ice for the engineer to use in 
 the small boiler which supplies steam for the pumps. This boil- 
 er is badly crystallized inside from the use of salt-water. 
 
 "A bear has been tracking round the ship, but was not seen 
 or scented by the dogs. 
 
 "Oc^. 9. The bear was seen to-day on the ice-floe, about a mile 
 
196 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 from the ship; the ice was not in a condition to go in chase of 
 him. 
 
 "Oc^. 12. There has been a large number of seals killed ; they 
 become plenty as the water opens. We are now drifting much 
 more rapidly than we did, and within sight of the eastern shore. 
 Symptoms of a gale from the south-west. 
 
 TiiK LUMME OF THE KOBTU. 
 
NIPPED IN THE ICE, 197 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 JOURNAL OF GEORGE E. TYSON, ASSISTANT NAVIGATOR ON UNITED 
 STATES STEAMER POLARIS, KEPT ON THE ICE-FLOE. 
 
 Adrift. — The fatal Ice Pressure. — "Heave every thing Overboard!" — The Ship 
 breaks away in the Darkness. — Children in the Ox-skins. — First Night adrift. — 
 Snowed under. — Roll-call on the Ice-floe. — Efforts to regain the Ship. — The Po- 
 laris coming! — A terrible Disappointment. — The overladen Boat. — Three Oars, 
 and no Rudder. — The Ice breaks beneath us. — Drifting to the South-west. — Re- 
 gain the large Floe. — Hope of regaini ig the Polaris abandoned. — Building Huts. 
 — Native Igloos. — Estimating Provisi(jns. — Locality of the Separation. — Meyers's 
 and Tyson's Opinion. — Two Meals a Day. — Mice in the Chocolate. — Too cold for 
 a Watch. — Too weak to stand firmly. — Hans kills and eats two Dogs. — Natives 
 improvident. — Lose Sight of the Sun. — The Dogs follow the Food. 
 
 ^^ Adrift^ Oct., 1872. Blowing a strong gale from the north-west. 
 I think it must have been about 6 p.m., on the night of the 15th, 
 when we were nipped with the ice. The pressure was very 
 great. The vessel did not lift to it much ; she was not broad 
 enough — was not built flaring, as the whalers call it; had she 
 been built so she would have risen to the ice, and the pressure 
 would not have affected her so much ; but, considering all, she 
 bore it nobly. I was surprised at her great strength, 
 
 "In the commencement of the nip, I came out of my room, 
 which was on the starboard side of the ship, and looked over the 
 rail, and saw that the ice was pressing heavily. I then walked 
 over to the port side. Most of the crew were at this time gather- 
 ed in the waist, looking over at the floe to which we were fasten- 
 ed. I saw that the ship rose somewhat to the pressure, and then 
 immediately came down again on the ice, breaking it, and riding 
 it under her. The ice was very heavy, and the vessel groaned 
 and creaked in every timber. 
 
 "At this time the engineer, Schuman, came running from be- 
 low, among the startled crew, saying that 'the vessel had started 
 a leak aft, and that the water was gaining on the pumps,' The 
 vessel had been leaking before this, and they were aiready pump- 
 ing — Peter and Hans, I think, with the small pump in the star- 
 board alley-way. 
 
198 ARCTIC EXPERIENC-vX 
 
 " I then walked over toward my room on the starboard side. 
 Behind the galley I saw Sailing-master Buddington, and told him 
 what the engineer said. He threw up liis . rms, and yelied out 
 to 'throw every thing on the ice!' Instantly every thing was 
 confusion, the men seizing every thing indiscriminately, and 
 throwing it overboard. These things had previously been placed 
 upon the deck in anticipation of such a catastrophe; but as the 
 vessel, by its rising and falling motion, was constantly breaking 
 the ice, and as no care was taken how or where the things were 
 thrown, I got overboard, calling some of the men to help me, and 
 tried to move what I could away from the ship, so it should not 
 be crushed and lost ; and also called out to the men on board to 
 stop throwing things till we could get the things already endan- 
 gered out of the way ; but still much ran under the ship. 
 
 "It was a dark night, and I could scarcely see the stuff — 
 whether it was on the ice or in the water. But we worked away 
 three or four hours, when the ice on the starboard side let the 
 ship loose again. We had been tied to the floe of ice by ice- 
 anchors and hawsers, but when the piece on the starboard drifted 
 off she righted from her beam-ends and broke away. I had 
 been on board just before she broke loose, and asked Budding- 
 ton 'how much water the vessel was making?' and he told me, 
 'no more than usual.' 
 
 " I found that the engineer's statement was a false alarm. The 
 vessel was strong, and no additional leak had been made; but as 
 the ice lifted her up^ the little water in the hold was thrown over, 
 and it made a rush, and he thought that a new leak had been 
 sprung. When I found she was making no more water, I went 
 on the ice again to try and save the provisions, if possible. 
 While so engaged, the ice commenced cracking; I told Budding- 
 ton of it, he meantime calling out to 'get every thing back as far 
 as possible on the ice.' Very shortly after, the ice exploded 
 under our feet, and broke in many places, and the ship broke away 
 in the darkness, and we lost sight of her in a moment. 
 
 '"Gone! 
 But an ice-bound honor 
 Seemed to cling to air.' 
 
 " It was snowing at the time also ; it was a terrible night. On 
 the 15th of October it may be said that the Arctic night com- 
 mences; but in addition to this the wind was blowing strong 
 
THE rOLAIilS BREAKS LOOSE. 201 
 
 from the south-east; it was snowing and drifting, and was fear- 
 fully dark; the wind was exceedingly heavy, and so bad was 
 the snow and sleet that one could not even look to the wind- 
 ward. We did not know who was on the ice or who was on the 
 ship ; but I knew some of the children were on the ice, because 
 almost the la^t thing I had pulled away from the crushing heel 
 of the ship were some musk-ox skins; they were lying across a 
 wide crack in the ice, and as I pulled them toward me to save 
 them, I saw that there were two or three of Ilans^s children rolled 
 up in one of the skins; a slight motion of the ice, and in a moment 
 more they would either have been in the water and drowned in 
 the darkness, or crushed between the ice. 
 
 "It was nearly ten o'clock when the ship broke away, and we 
 had been at work since six ; the time seemed long, for we were 
 working all the time. Hannah was working, but I did not see 
 Joe or Ilans. We worked till we could scarcely stand. They 
 were throwing things constantly over to us till the vessel parted. 
 
 " Some of the men were on small pieces of ice. I took the 
 'little donkey ' — a small scow — and went for them; but the scow 
 was almost instantly swamped ; then I shoved off one of the 
 whale-boats, and took off what men I could see, and some of the 
 men took the other boat and helped their companions, so that we 
 were all on firm ice at last. 
 
 " We did not dare to move about much after that, for we could 
 not see the size of the ice we were on, on account of the storm 
 and darkness. All the rest but myself — the men, women, and 
 children — sought what shelter they could from the storm by 
 wrapping themselves in the musk-ox skins, and so laid down to 
 rest. I alone walk the floe all night. 
 
 "Morning came at last; I could then see what had caused the 
 immense pressure on the ship, though I knew she must go adrift 
 when I heard the ice cracking. The floe to which the ship was 
 fastened had been crushed and pressed upon by heavy icebergs, 
 which was the iiuuiediate cause of its breaking up. This I could 
 not see last night, but I saw all in the morning. 
 
 " Fortunately, we had the two boats on our piece of the 2oe. 
 This was a nearly circular piece, about four miles in circumfer- 
 ence. It was not level, but was full of hillocks, and also ponds, 
 or small lakes, which had been formed by the melting of the ice 
 during the short summer. The ice was of various thicknesses. 
 
202 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Some of the mounds, or hills, were probably thirty feet thick, 
 and the flat parts not more than ten or fifteen. It was very 
 rough ; the hillocks were covered with snow ; indeed, the sur- 
 face was all .sDow from the last storm. Some of the men whom I 
 now found on the ice were those whom I had picked off of the 
 smaller piecjs last night in the darkness. I could now see who 
 they were. These men were thirty or forty yards from the main 
 floe, and I pushed off the b )at and went for them. Some of the 
 men, too, had taken ther shipmates off of small pieces. I do not 
 think any body was lost last night I think all that are not here 
 are on the ship. I should think they would soon be coming to 
 look for us. 
 
 " Those who laid down on the ice were all snowed under — but 
 that helped to keep them warm. Perhaps I should have lain 
 down too, if I had had any thing to lie on ; but the others had 
 taken all the skins, and I would not disturb them to ask for one. 
 
 " Oc^. 16. Why does not the Polaris come to our rescue? 
 This is the thought that now fills every heart, and has mine ever 
 since the first dawn of light this morning. I scanned the hori- 
 zon, but could see nothing of the vessel ; but I saw a lead of water 
 which led to the land. The gale had abated ; it was almost 
 calm. I looked around upon the company with me upon the 
 ice, and then upon the provisions which wc had with us. Be- 
 sides myself there were eighteen persons, namely : 
 
 '"Frederick Meyers, meterologist ; John Ilerron, steward ; William Jackson, 
 cook. — Seamen : J. W. C. Kruger (called Robert) ; Fred. Jamka ; William Linder- 
 mann; Fred. Anthing; Gus. Lindquist ; Peter Johnson. — Esquimaux: Joe; Han- 
 nah, Joe's wife; Puney, child; Hans; Merkut or Christiana, Ilans's wife; Augus- 
 tina, Tobias, Sued — children ; Charlie Polaris, baby of Hans's.' 
 
 " Now, to feed all these, I saw that we had but fourteen cans 
 of pemmican, eleven and a half bags of bread, one can of dried 
 apples, and fourteen hams; and if the ship did not come for us, 
 we might have to support ourselves all winter, or die of starva- 
 tion. Fortunately, we had the boats. They were across the 
 crack where I had hauled away the musk-ox skins and found 
 the children ; we had hauled both the boats on the ice to save 
 them. I had shortly before asked Captain Buddington if he 
 would haul the boats on board ; but he had only answered by 
 ordering every thing to be pulled as far back on the ice as pos- 
 sible. 
 
EFFORTS TO REGAIN THE SHIP. 203 
 
 "As soon as I could see to do so, I walked across the floe to 
 see where was the best lead, so that we could get to shore ; and in 
 the mean time I ordered the men to get the boats ready, for I 
 was determined to make a start, and try and get to the land, from 
 which I thought we might find the ship, or at least, if we did not 
 find her, that we miglit meet with Esquimaux to assist us. I 
 thought that perhaps the Polaris had been lost in the night, as I 
 could see nothing of her. 
 
 "I bad called to the crew to rouse up and see to the boats, 
 and at last succeeded in geiting them out of the snow, and fairly 
 awake. I told them we must reach the shore ; they thought do 
 too, but they seemed very inert, and in no hurry ; they were 
 'tired' and 'hungry' and 'wet ' (though I think they could not 
 have been more tired than I, who had been walking the floe all 
 night while they slept); they had had nothing to eat since three 
 o'clock the day before; and so they concluded they must get 
 something to eat first. Nothing could induce them to hurry; 
 while I, all impatience to try and get the boats off, had to wait 
 their leisure. I might have got off myself, but I knew in that 
 case, if the Polaris did not come and pick them up, they would 
 all perish in a few days; so I waited and waited. Not satisfied 
 to eat what was at hand, they must even set about cooking. 
 They made a fire out of some wood which they found upon the 
 ice. They had nothing to cook in but some flat tin pans, in 
 which they tried to cook some of the canned meat, and also tried 
 to make some coffee or chocolate. Then some of them insist- 
 ed on changing their clothing; for several of them had secured 
 their bags of clothing. But every thing has an end, and at last 
 I got started about 9 A.M. ; but, as I feared, it was now too late; 
 the leads were closing, and I feared a change of wind which 
 would make it impossible to reach the shore. 
 
 " The piece of ice we were on was fast, between heavy icebergs 
 which had grounded, and was therefore stationary. The wind 
 had now hauled to the north-east. I had no means of taking 
 the true bearings, but it was down quartering across the land, 
 and it was bringing the loose ice down fast. But though I feared 
 it was too late, I determined to try. And at last we got the boats 
 off, carrying every thing we could, and intending to come back 
 for what was left ; but when we got half-way to the shore, the 
 loose ice which I had seen coming, crowded on our bows so that 
 
204 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES, 
 
 we could not get through, and we had to haul up on the ice; 
 and soon after I saw the Polaris! I was rejoiced indeed, for I 
 thought assistance was at hand. 
 
 *' She came around a point above us, eight or ten miles distant 
 We could see water over the ice that had drifted down, and we 
 could see water inshore. I wondered why the Polaris did not 
 come and look for us. Thinking, perhaps, that she did not know 
 in which direction to look — though the set of the ice must have 
 told which way it would drift — and though the small ice had 
 stopped us, it was not enough to stop a ship, I did not know 
 what to make of it. But, determined to attract her attention, if 
 possible, I set up the colors which I had with me and a piece 
 of India rubber cloth, and then with my spy-glass watched the 
 vessel. She was under both steam and sail, so I went to work 
 securing every thing, hoping that she would come for us and 
 take us aboard. I could not see any body on deck; they, if 
 there, were not in sight. She kept along down by the land, and 
 then, instead of steering toward us, dropped away behind the 
 land — Littleton Island, I suppose it is. Our signal was dark, and 
 would surely be seen that distance on a white ice-floe. I do not 
 know what to make of this. 
 
 " I wanted some poles to help build a house or tent, and I sent 
 some of the men to the other side of the floe to get some ; I knew 
 there must be some there belonging to a house I had built of 
 poles in which to store provisions. In going to this portion of 
 the floe they saw the vessel behind the island, and so came back 
 and reported ; they said she was ' tied up.' I did not know what 
 to think of it; but I took my spy-glass, and running to a point 
 where they said I could see her, sure enough there she was, tied 
 up — at least, all her sails were furled, and there was no smoke 
 from her stack, and she was lying head to the wind. I suppose 
 she was tied up to the bay-ice, which I could see with the glass. 
 
 "And now our piece of ice, which had been stationary, com- 
 menced drifting; and I did not feel right about the vessel not 
 corning for us. I began to think she did not mean to. I could 
 not think she was disabled, because we had so recently seen her 
 steaming ; so I told the men we must get to the other side of the 
 floe, and try and reach the land, perhaps lower down than the 
 vessel was, but so that we might eventually reach her. I told 
 them to prepare the boats. I threw away every thing to make 
 
A TERRIBLE DISAPPOINTMENT. 205 
 
 them light, except a little provision — enough to last perhaps two 
 or three davs. 
 
 " I told the men, while they were getting the boats ready, I 
 would run across the ice and see if there was an opportunity to 
 take the water, or where was the best place, so that they would 
 not have to haul the boats uselessly. I ran across as quick as I 
 could. I was very tired, for I had had nothing but some biscuit 
 and a drink of the blood-soup to eat; but I saw there was an op- 
 portunity to get through, and that seemed to renew my strength. 
 The small ice did not now appear to be getting in fast enough to 
 prevent our getting across. But in these gales it is astonishing 
 how quickly the ice closes together, and I knew we were liable 
 to be frozen up at any moment ; so I hurried back to the boats 
 and told them ' we must start immediately.' 
 
 " There was a great deal of murmuring — the men did not seem 
 to realize the crisis at all. They seemed to think more of saving 
 their clothes than their lives. But I seemed to see the whole 
 winter before me. Either, I thought, the Polaris is disabled and 
 can not come for us, or else, God knows why. Captain Budding- 
 ton don't mean to help us ; and then there flashed through my 
 mind the remembrance of a scene and a fearful experience which 
 had happened to me before, in which his indifference had nearly 
 cost mc my life ond those of all my crew. But I believed he 
 thought too much of Puney and the cook to leave us to our 
 fate without an effort. Then the thought came to me, what shall 
 I do with all these people, if God means we are to shift for our- 
 selves, without ship, or shelter, or sufiicient food, through the 
 long, cold, dark winter? I knew that sometime the ice would 
 break up; that at last it would break up into small pieces — too 
 small to live upon. From the disposition which some of the men 
 had shown, I knew it would be very difficult to make them do 
 what was needful for their own safety. And then there were 
 all those children and the two women ! 
 
 " It appeared to me then that if we did not manage to get back 
 to the ship, that it was scarcely possible but that many, if not all 
 of us, would perish before the winter was over; and yet, while 
 all these visions were going through my brain, these men, whose 
 lives 1 was trying to save, stood muttering and grumbling because 
 I did not want the boats overloaded to get through the pack-ice. 
 They insisted on carrying every thing. They were under no dis- 
 
206 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 cipline — they bad been under none since Captain ILill's death. 
 They loaded one boat full with all sorts of things, much of which 
 was really trash, but which they would carry. We were going 
 to drag the boat across the floe to where we could take the water. 
 I went on, and told the Esquimaux to follow me across the floe. 
 I had not gone more than two hundred yards before a hurricane 
 burst upon me. I nevertheless persevered and got across the ice, 
 and when I got to the lead of water saw that the natives had not 
 followed me! Whether they thought too much of their proper- 
 ty, or whether they were afraid of the storm, I do not know ; but 
 the cook had followed me, and when he saw they had not come 
 he ran back for them. 
 
 " The men still murmured about getting into the boat which 
 they had dragged over so overloaded, but I would have shoved 
 off as long as I had the strength to do it ; but when I looked for 
 the oars, there were but three, and there was no rudder/ I had 
 told them to prepare the boat while I was gone to look for a lead, 
 and this was the way they had done it. 1 had told them to see 
 that all was right, including sails; but they did not wish to go, 
 and that probably accounts for it, I am afraid we shall all have 
 to suffer much from their obstinacy. 
 
 " Perhaps if we had started we could not have reached either 
 land or ship, but it was certainly worth trying. Why they pre- 
 fer to stay on this floe I can not imagine; but to start with only 
 three oars and no rudder, the wind blowing furiously, and no 
 good, earnest help, was useless, I tried it, but the men were un- 
 willing; and in the crippled condition of the boat it was no won- 
 der that we were blown back like a feather. I was, therefore, 
 compelled to haul the boat back on the ice. The men by this 
 time were really exhausted, and I Ccld not blame them so much 
 for not working with more energy. 
 
 "Night was now coming on; our day was lost, and our oppor- 
 tunity with it. We must prepare for another night on the ice. 
 
 " We had to leave the boat where she was ; we were all too 
 tired to attempt to drag her back. We also left in her the cloth- 
 ing and other things the men had been so anxious to save in the 
 morning, 
 
 "I went back toward the centre of the floe, and put up a little 
 canvas tent, and then, eating a liitie frozen meat and a little ship- 
 bread, I was glad enough to creep in, pull a musk-ox skin over 
 
BREAKING OF THE ICE-FLOE. 207 
 
 me and get a little rest, drifting in the darkness I knew not 
 wliitiier; for I had had no rest since the night of the 14th — the 
 night before we parted with the ship. All. of the afternoon of 
 the loth I was at work, and all of that night I walked the floe. 
 All the next day I was going and coming across the ice, and la- 
 boring with the men and boats, trying to work through the pack ; 
 and when night came the ice-floe proved a refreshing bed, where 
 [ slept soundly till morning, when I was suddenly awakened by 
 hearing a loud cry from the natives, which made me quickly 
 crawl out from between my wet ox-skin? 
 
 "It had snowed during the night; but that was nothing. TJie 
 ice had broken f separating us from the boat which we had left, 
 being unable to haul it the night before. The old house, made 
 of poles, in which thco was also six bags of bread, remained on 
 the old floe, and we were left on a very small piece of ice. The 
 Esquimaux, Mr. Meyers, and myself had made our extemporized 
 lodgings on the thickest part of the floe, and when the ice parted 
 we were all on this portion. As soon as I saw the position of 
 affairs, I called the men out, desiritig them to go for the boat and 
 bread. It could have been done with safety, for there was no 
 sea running between the broken floe, and they had not separated 
 much at that time ; but I could not move them — they were afraid. 
 At least they did not go, 
 
 "So we drifted, having one boat on our piece of ice, while one 
 of our boats, part of the provisions, and the house of poles, re- 
 mained on the main part of the original floe. And so we drift, 
 apparently to the south-west, for I have neither compass nor 
 chronometer with me; my compass is in that other boat, and 
 even my watch is on board of the Polaris. Our piece of ice is 
 perhaps one hundred and fifty yards across each way. 
 
 "Od. 17. Quite a heavy sea is running; piece after piece is 
 broken from our floe. God grant we may have enough left to 
 stand upon ! The vessel could now come to us in clear water, if 
 she is in condition either to steam or sail. I told the natives 
 who are with me they must try and catch some .seal. Hans was 
 engaged as hunter, servant, and dog-driver; and Joe is one of the 
 best hunters to be found, if there is any thing to catch. If we 
 can only get seal enough, we can live ; but without seal we can 
 have no warnr food, for we shall have to cook with the blubber- 
 oil, as the natives do. The natives have caught three seals, and 
 
208 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 could have caught more, but for the thoughtlessness of the men 
 who gathered around and frightened them off; then the weather 
 set in so bad they could do no more; it was thick and heavy. 
 Weather continued bad, but the gale moderated toward the 
 morning of the 18th. When it cleared, I could see the land — 
 about six miles away. I thought it might be the east shore ; but, 
 having no compass and no chart, could hardly be sure where we 
 were. ' Young ice,' or new ice, had formed between us and the 
 land ; but it was not strong enough to walk upon. I was in 
 hopes it would get firmer, and then we might perhaps get to land. 
 
 "One morning — the 21st, I think — Joe was spying around, 
 and saw the end of our abandoned boat on the same floe where 
 we had left it. He called to me, and as soon as I saw it I started 
 off with him to try and recover it. It was about twelve o'clock 
 in the day, and we had not yet had our breakfast. But I was 
 afraid we should not have so good a chance again to get it, and 
 would not wait for any thing, for we could now get across to the 
 old floe from our own piece of ice. Joe and I started, and got it 
 back, with all the things, and also loaded in what bread I could 
 carry. I fortunately had five or six dogs with me. We har- 
 nessed them to the boat, they dragging and we pushing over the 
 bad places. We at last got it back safely to the piece of ice we 
 were encamped upon. We saved all. We have now both boats, 
 the natives' kyacks, and are together again. 
 
 '■^Od. 23. We have now given up all hopes of the Polaris com- 
 ing to look for us. All we can do is to vmit for the ice to get 
 strong enough for us to get on shore. The worst of it is, we have 
 no sledges; and hauling the loaded boats over the rough ice is 
 likely to injure them, so that they would be unfit for use, should 
 we need to take to them ; but it is the only way we can do to 
 get them over to the large floe, which now lies halfway between 
 us and the shore. There is, too, but little time to see to work ; 
 all the light we have now is about six hours a day, and not very 
 clear then. On cloudy and stormy days it is dark all the time. 
 But this piece of ice will not do to winter on. So to-day, the ice 
 appearing strong enough, I got the boats loaded, harnessed on 
 the dogs, and started to regain the large floe ; succeeded with the 
 first, and then went back for the second. It is fortunate, indeed, 
 that we have the boats. Humanly speaking, they are our salva- 
 tion, for on an emergency we can use them either for the water 
 
AN ENCAMl'iMENT ON THE ICE. 209 
 
 or as sledges. Got the second one over safe, and am rejoiced at 
 that; and tbey do not appear to have received any injury ex- 
 cept what can be readily repaired. There are still two kyacks 
 on the small floe. A native will stick to his kyack like a white 
 man to his skin, and Joe and Hans got theirs out of the ship 
 when Captain Buddington ordered them off. 
 
 "We had now got all our principal things on the large floe, 
 except a little stuff and these kyacks. I wanted the crew to 
 try and help save them, but could not get them to do any thir.g 
 toward it. At last Joe started alone, and then two of the men 
 ventured over : one was the negro cook, and the other William 
 Lindermann. One of the kyacks was saved, but the other was 
 lost. These little boats are invaluable to the Esquimaux, who 
 are accustomed to manage them; but no one else can do an}' 
 thing with them. One might almost as well launch out on an 
 ostrich feather and think lo keep afloat, as in these unballast- 
 ed little seal-skin shelLs. But I'm glad enough they have go' 
 one of them. 
 
 " The weather has come on very bad ; but, fortunately, we 
 have got our snow- houses built. We have quite an encamp- 
 ment — one hut, or rather a sort of half-hut, for Mr. Meyers and 
 myself; Joe's hut for himself, Hannah, and their adopted daugh- 
 ter, Puney ; a hut for the men, a store-hut for our provisions, and 
 a cook-house, all united by arched alley -ways built of snow; 
 one main entrance, and smaller ones branching off to the sev- 
 eral apartments, or huts. Huns has built his hut separately, but 
 near by. 
 
 "Joe did most of the work of building these huts — he knew 
 best how to do it ; but we all assisted. They are made in the 
 regular Esquimau style, and the natives call them igloos. The 
 way they go about it is this: the ground is first leveled off, and 
 then one-half of the floor toward the end farthest from the en- 
 trance is slightly raised above the other or front half. The 
 raised part is parlor and bedroom, and the front p ''.rt is workshop 
 and kitchen. The walls and arched roof are composed of square 
 blocks of hard snow, packed hard by the force of the wind. A 
 square of about eighteen inches of thin, compressed snow or ice, 
 or sometimes a piece of animal membrane, is fixed in for a win- 
 dow. The entrance is very low, and is reached through the al- 
 ley-way, so that one has to almost crawl in. At night, or when- 
 
 14 
 
210 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 ever it storms or is very cold, the entrance is closed up, after the 
 inmates are all in, by a block of snow. 
 
 "There is hardly room to turn round in these huts, and an 
 ordinary -sized white man can only just stand up straight in 
 them; it is as much as an Esquimau can do in some of them; 
 but from their form they stand the weather well. A hut is often 
 snowed under, so that it can not be distinguished from a natural 
 hillock ; but it can not be blown over; and when there is a suffi- 
 ciency of oil to burn in the lamps, these kind of huts can be kept 
 warm enough. But from their arched form, and the material of 
 which they are constructed, it can easily be seen that they can 
 not be made spacious enough to properly accommodate a large 
 party of men. The centre of the dome only admits of the up- 
 right position being maintained, as from that point the walls 
 slope gradually, until they meet the ground. In the men's hut, 
 for instance, the dais, or raised platform, on which they sleep, just 
 accommodates them, lying like herrings in a box, with no super- 
 fluous room in which to turn ; and only two or three of them 
 can stand up at a time. 
 
 "These huts are only used by the natives in winter. The 
 summer sun is as fatal to them as rain would be if it fell there; 
 but when they begin to thaw and melt, the Esquimaux take to 
 their seal-skin tents for shelter. 
 
 "The ordinary lamp in use among the natives is made out of 
 
 ^ w!a$*^,^^f^ 
 
 NATIVE LAM I'. 
 
 a soft kind of stone, indigenous to the country ; it is hollowed 
 out, like a shallow dish, with an inverted edge, on which they 
 place a little moss for wicking, which, when lighted, sucks up 
 the oil from the blubber; and this is all the fire they have in this 
 
ESTIMATING I'KOVISIONH. 211 
 
 cold country, either for heating their huts or for cooking. To dry 
 their clothing, they put them in nets suspended over the lamp, 
 
 " We, however, did not have even a proper lamp ; but we soon 
 contrived one out of an old pemmican can, and having no moss, 
 we cut up a piece of canvas for wicking, and it answered very 
 well for us; but somehow the men could not seem to understand 
 how to use it; they either got the blubber all in a blaze, or else 
 they got it smoking so badly that they were driven out of their 
 hut; and so I am sorry to say that they have begun to break up 
 one of the boats for fuel. This is bad business, but I can not 
 stop them, situated as I am, without any other authority than 
 such as they choose to concede to me. It will not do to thwart 
 them too much, even for their own benefit. 
 
 " These boats are not designed to carry more than six or eight 
 men, and yet I foresee that all this company may have yet to 
 get into the one boat to save our lives, for the ice is very treach- 
 erous. But they will do as they like. 
 
 "I have been taking account of stock. By our succes.sive ex- 
 peditions, in which we gathered nearly all together which was on 
 the ice when we were first drifted off, I find that we have our 
 two boats (but one is being destroyed) and one kyack, and, thank 
 God, plenty of ammunition and shot. 
 
 "Of provisions we have eleven and a half bags of bread, four- 
 teen cans of pemmican, fourteen hams, ten dozen cans of meats 
 and soups, one can of dried apples, and about twenty pounds of 
 chocolate and sugar mixed. The pemmican cans are large, each 
 weighing forty-five pounds; the meats and soups are only one 
 and two pound cans; and the hams are small ones; the dried- 
 apple can is a twenty-two-pounder. Divide that into portions 
 for nineteen people, with a certainty of not getting any thing 
 more for six months (unless we reach the land, or can catch seals 
 to live on), and it is plain we could not exist. And if we have 
 to keep to the floe, it will be April or May before we shall drift 
 to the whaling-grounds. 
 
 " We must try once more to get on shore. To-morrow, if the 
 weather permits, I will try and get the house and the lumber 
 where we can have the use of it. 
 
 " Have had a talk with Mr. Meyers about the locality of our 
 separation from the Polaris; he thinks we were close to North- 
 umberland Island, but I believe it was Littleton Island ; he says 
 
212 ARCl'C EXPERIENCES. 
 
 * he ought to know, for that he took observations only a day or 
 two before,' and of course he ought to be right; but still my im- 
 pression is tiiat Northumberland Island is larger than the one the 
 Polaris steamed behind. I wish I had a chart, or some means 
 of knowing ibr certain. 
 
 ^^ O'-t. 24, Morniiiy. Blowing strong from the north-east, and 
 the snow is drifting; quite cold. Hobcrt and Bill have started 
 for tlie old house to get two {)lanks to make a sledge to haul the 
 rest of the house over on, and for general use. If it is a good 
 day to-morrow, I hope to get all the lumber and the remains of 
 the canvas from the old place. 
 
 "4/i!r .( '■'. The men came back with the planks ; they were 
 very hungry — so hungry I was compelled to break the rules, and 
 give them some bread and pemmicun to eat 
 
 "We only allow ourselves two meals a day, and Mr. Meyers 
 has made a pair of scales, with which to weigh out each one's 
 portion, so that there should be no jealousy. We use shot for 
 weights. Our allowance is very small — just enough to keep body 
 and soul together; but we must economize, or our little stock 
 will soon give out altogether. 
 
 "One bad symptom has appeared: we have only had choco- 
 late prepared for the party four times, and it is nearly all gone ! 
 Some one has made free with the store-house. It is too cold to 
 set a watch ; but it is plain enough to be seen that things have 
 been meddled with. 
 
 "The wind is mostly from the E.N.E. Have succeeded in 
 getting a sledge made, and the men have brought in a load of 
 lumber and poles from the old house; no doubt we shall be able 
 to get it all. But our blubber is almost out, and we see no seals; 
 if we do not get some soon we shall be in darkness, and have to 
 eat our frozen food without thawing it — to say nothing of cook- 
 ing it. We need it, too, very much to melt the fresh -water ice 
 for drink. Fortunately there is enough of this ice in the ponds 
 on this floe, if we can only get the means of melting it. 
 
 "Our present daily allowance is eleven ounces for each adult, 
 and half- rations for the children. I was obliged to establish a 
 regular rate, and insist upon its observance, or we shoald soon 
 have had nothing. There appears to be a good deal of discon- 
 tent in some quarters, but I fear they will get less before any of 
 us get more. Before this rule was established, some got a great 
 
ESQUIMAUX IMPROVIDENCE. 213 
 
 deal more than others. It was hard for some of them to come 
 down to it in consequence ; and in fact it has weakened them 
 down ; but it is absolutely necessary to be careful of what we 
 have. I am so weak myself that 1 stagger from sheer want of 
 strength; and, after all, the men bear it as well as could be ex- 
 pected — considering, too, that they do not realize, as I do, the 
 absolute necessity of it. 
 
 "Hans has just taken two of the dogs, killed and skinned 
 them, and will eat them. I give each of the natives the same 
 amount of bread, and whatever else we have, as I deal out to my- 
 self. But the Esquimaux are, like all semi-civilized people, nat- 
 urally improvident; while they have, they will eat, and let to- 
 morrow take care of itself I do not suppose an Esquimau ever 
 voluntarily left off eating before his hunger was fully satisfied, 
 though he knew that the next day, or for many days, he would 
 have nothing. Sailors have some kind of an idea that a ship's 
 company must, under some circumstances, be put on 'short al- 
 lowance;' but that is an idea you can never beat into the head of 
 a native, and yet of all people they are the most subject to fluctu- 
 ations of luck — sometimes having abundance, and then reduced 
 to famine; but there is no thrift in them. They will sometimes 
 store away provisions, and build caches on their traveling routes; 
 but this is always done when they have more than they can pos- 
 sibly consume at the time — as when they have been fortunate 
 enough to kill a whale or a walrus, and by no possibility can eat 
 it all. 
 
 " Oct 26. We lost sight of the sun's disk three days ago — 
 
 " 'Miserable we, 
 Who here entnngled in the gathering ice, 
 Take our last look of the descending sun ; 
 While full of death, and fierce with tenfold frost, 
 The long, long night, incumbent o'er our heads, 
 Falls horrible.' 
 
 *' May the great and good God have mercy on us, and send us 
 seals, or I fear we must perish. We are all very weak from hav- 
 ing to live on such small allowance, and the entire loss of the sun 
 makes all more or less despondent. But still we do not give up; 
 the men have got another sled-load of poles in to-day ; but the 
 ice is very rough, and the light so dim that they can fetch but 
 little at a time. There seems now no chance of reaching the 
 
214 
 
 AKCTIC KXPERIENCES. 
 
 land — we have drifted so fur to the west. We are about eight 
 or ten miles offshore. Northumberland Island bears about east 
 from us — should think forty or fifty miles off. Should judge 
 the latitude to be about 77° 30'. Have not drifted any the last 
 three days. The sled has come in with two additional dogs — 
 'Bear' and 'Spike:' these dogs were on the large floe, where the 
 most of our provisions were. I suppose, since we brought the 
 food away, they thought best to follow it. A portion of the sun 
 just showed for a little while to-day — his upper limb about T 
 above the horizon. 
 
 TU> GREAT AUK. 
 
A VAIN HUNT FOR SEAL. 215 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 A vain Ilnnt for Seal. — Pemmican. — The Dogs starving. — Blowholes of the Seal. — 
 Mode of Capture. — Sight Cary Island. — Hans mistaken for a Hear. — Down with 
 Uheiimatism. — One IJoat us-cd for Fuel. — Th ■ Children crying with Hunger. — Joe 
 the l>est Man. — The Bread walks otf. — One s(iuure Meal. — Bear and Fox-tracks. — 
 FiG'ects of lax Discipline. — Joe and Hannah. — Our Thanksgiving-dinner. 
 
 " Oct. 27 comes in with u clear, strong breeze from the north- 
 east. The two natives and Robert have gone to look if they can 
 find any thing more worth bringing away. There are two bags 
 of ccai in the old house, or what is left of it, which was thrown 
 over with the rest of the things from the Polaris; it is probably 
 the coal Robert wants, as they have not yet learned to use a lamp 
 to cook with. It is so clear to-day that we can see to the west 
 shore. If the ice remains firm, shall still endeavor to find the 
 vessel. At noon to-day the sun showed about a quarter of his 
 diameter above the horizon. We shall soon lose sight of him 
 altogether. Joe and Hans have been out all day hunting for 
 seal, but have found none. 
 
 " Oct. 28. Wind still blowing clear and strong from the north- 
 east. Have found the dog-tracks, and the natives have secured 
 the dogs, harnessed them to the sled, and taken them with them 
 on the hunt. If they should be so fortunate as to meet a bear, 
 the dogs would keep him at bay till the men could get a shot at 
 him. We are out of seal-meat, and to-day dine on pemmican 
 and bread. The bread, of course, is simply biscuit; it is 'bread' 
 on board ship, and 'biscuit' to landsmen. Some people like this 
 pemmican ; it is made of beef cut in thin slices and dried, then 
 either cut up fine, or, as some firms prepare it, ground up and 
 mixed with an equal quantity of fat. I can eat it here ; but if I 
 was ashore it would not enter largely into my cuisine. It is. 
 however, a very proper compound to take on Arctic voyages, 
 being very ' heat-giving,' which is quite a desideratum in these 
 regions. 
 
 "Another day passed and no seal caught. Have no seal-meat 
 left, and very little blubber ; must try and save what there is for 
 
216 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 the lamps; but when hungry natives are around, it disappears 
 very rapidly down their throats. The ice keeps firm, and I am 
 only waiting for the change of the moon, so that we can be sure 
 of light to make another effort to reach the shore. 
 
 "In consequence of there being no seals caught, 1 have noth- 
 ing to give the dogs to eat. The poor things are almost dead. 
 I can not afford to give them our canned meats. They will have 
 to go. 
 
 ^^ Oct. SO. Wind lighter, bu*- from the same quarter. Our al- 
 lowance for the whole company is now two pounds of pemmican, 
 
 JOE WATOIIING SEAn-IIOLB. 
 
AN ATTEMPT TO REACH THE SHOUE. 217 
 
 six pounds of bread, four pounds of canned meut — twelve pounds 
 in all, to furnish eighteen persons for the day. The natives still 
 continue hunting, but have had no success. 
 
 "It is not easy to find the seal in winter; they live princi- 
 pally under the ice, and can only be seen when the ice cracks; 
 an inexperienced person would never catch one. Being warm- 
 blooded animals, they can not remain always under the ice with- 
 out breathing; and in consequence they make air-holes through 
 the ice and snow, through which to breathe ; but at the surface 
 these holes are so small — not more than two and a half inches 
 across — that they are not easily distinguished, especially in the 
 dim and uncertain light which we now have. They are very shy, 
 too, and .seem to know when thev are watched. A native will 
 sometimes remain watching a seal-hole thirty-six or forty-eight 
 hours before getting a chance to strike, and if the first stroke is 
 not accurate the game is gone forever. 
 
 " The natives use barbed spears, and, as the skull of the seal is 
 exceedingly thin, if the blow is well aimed it is sure to penetrate, 
 and the seal can then be held securely until the hole is enlarged 
 sufficiently to pull the body through. 
 
 "The natives have come in empty-handed, and report the ice 
 very rough. But I will try it to-morrow, should it not blow a 
 gale of wind. 
 
 "JV^oy. 8. I started on the morning of the 1st of November to 
 try and reach the shore. We had loaded the boat with provis- 
 ions and the most necessary articles, and succeeded in dragging 
 it nearly half-way to the shore on the old piece of floe ; then the 
 ice broke, and we were adrift again. Saw Gary Island, about 
 twelve miles to the south-east of us. Since then it has been such 
 thick weather I have seen nothing. We had started very early 
 in the morning, having with us also the dogs and sled, and these 
 were nearly driven into the water before it was discovered. 
 There was a wide crack right across the ice that in the dim light 
 was not discerned; some of the men had crossed over before it 
 cracked, and had a good jump for it to get back. 
 
 " Fate, it seems, does not mean that we shall either get back to 
 the Polaris, or even reach the shore. To help the matter, bad 
 weather came on, and it has been so bad ever since there has 
 been no possibility of making another attempt. Here we are. 
 and here, it seems, we are doomed to remain. 
 
216 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 " We have had to rebuild our huts, and are again sheltered as 
 well as circumstances will permit I have been sick on my back 
 for the last three days; the exposure and exertion, with insuffi- 
 cient food and clothing, completely prostrated me ; but now I 
 am at home (!) again, and have had a little rest, and am better. 
 
 " On the 6th, Joe shot a seal, for which I was truly thankful, 
 for our blubber was almost gone. The weather is so bad no one 
 pretends to leave the hut. We are all prisoners. 
 
 " On the 10th, Joe and Hans went out hunting. After they 
 had been out some time they got separated, and Joe, after trying 
 his luck alone, made out to get back to the hut before it was 
 quite dark ; he fully expected to find that Ilans had preceded 
 him, and was much alarmed when he heard that he had not ar- 
 rived. He persuaded Robert to go back with him to try and 
 find Hans. It seems he had left our floe, thinking there might 
 be better chance for game on another, and had not been able to 
 find his way back. As Joe and Robert were going along - er- 
 ing through the fast, coming darkness, they »aw what they took 
 to be an ice-bear approaching them ; they loaded their pistols, and 
 made all ready to give him a warm reception; when, fortunately, 
 the creature coming a few steps nearer, they saw that, instead of 
 a bear, it was poor lost Hans, His fur clothing covered with 
 snow had, perhaps aided a little by their imagination, or their 
 fears, completely deceived them — though, as the ice was very 
 rough, and probably Hans used both hands and feet in climbing 
 over the hummocks, the mistake was not so surprising. They 
 were very glad they had not hurried their fire. The wind is 
 now very strong, and the snow drifting. If Hans had not come 
 in, he would have fared badly such a night as this. 
 
 "iVW. 13. The men are building a large snow -hut, for what 
 they call a reserve. Peter is sick to-day. The rest all well, 
 
 '*iVbv. 15. Change in the weather. It is spring-tide, and the 
 water rises all around our floe; it is beautifully clear, and the 
 moonlight very bright. Our poor dogs are suffering; they got 
 nothing at all to-day. Five have been shot altogether, leaving 
 us only four ; I regret it, but it can't be helped. We are now 
 drifting very fast. The men are lining their new hut with can- 
 vas. Joe got on a fox-track yesterday, but did not come up with 
 his game ; and he also saw three seals, but was not able to secure 
 either of them. 
 
DOWN WITH RHEUMATISM. 219 
 
 ^^Nov. 19. I am down sick with rheumatism, hardly able to 
 hold a pencil. 1"^ the movement of the ice, I judge we are drift- 
 ing to the soutLward very fast. The natives tell me that they 
 saw two bear-tracks and five seal-holes ; but they brought home 
 nothing. I wish they had better fortune, for we need the fresh 
 meat very much. 
 
 "JV^oy. 21. The last few days the weather has been clear and 
 cold; but I have been confined to the hut with heavy cold and 
 rheumatism ; but, thank God, I am around again. It has been 
 very difficult for the natives to hunt this month, except the few 
 times the moon shone, on account of the darkness. Some days 
 it was quite impracticable, there being absolutely no light; jut 
 to-day, thank God, they have brought in two seals. Without 
 them we should have no fire, one boat being already cut up. 
 We must go without fire or warm food if there are no seal caught. 
 It will never do to touch the other bout; the time must come 
 — if we live to see it — when the boat will be our only means of 
 safety. 
 
 *' We are living now on as little as the human frame can en- 
 dure without succumbing; some tremble with weakness when 
 they try to walk. Mr. Meyers suffers much from this cause ; he 
 was not well when he came on the ice, and the regimen here has 
 not improved him. He lives with the men now ; they are most- 
 ly Germans, and so is he, and the affinity of blood draws them 
 together, I suppose. Since he has housed with the men, I have 
 lived in the hut with Joe, Hannah, and Puney. Puney, poor 
 child, is often hungry ; indeed, all the children often cry with 
 hunger. We give them all that it is safe to use. I can do no 
 more, however sorry I may feel for them. 
 
 " The seals which Joe got to-day will help us very much. In 
 our situation he is the 'best man,' for without him we should get 
 little enough game, I fear. Hans is not so good, though he does 
 well at times ; and, as for the rest, they have had no experience. 
 I am the worst off of all, for I have neither gun nor pistol of my 
 own, and can only make a shot by borrowing of Joe. This is 
 a disadvantage in other respects; the men know it; they are all 
 armed, and I am not. Afler Captain Hall's death, for some rea- 
 son unknown to me, arms were distributed among the men, per- 
 haps to organize hunting-parties ; but, at any rate, while I was 
 looking after the ship's property, the men secured their guns and 
 
220 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 pistols. Joe has both a shot-gun and a pistol; but he didn't 
 seem to care to give either up, and I will not force him to. 
 
 "The men have now moved into their large new but, and I 
 shall appropriate the other to store provisions. The bread has 
 disappeared very fust lately : more of tJds hereafter. We have only 
 eight bags left. God guide us ; He is our only hope. 
 
 " We have about three hours' fair light yet on a clear day — 
 like twilight in cloudy weather; but I scarcely know day from 
 night. But, thanks be to God, we are all well, with keen appe- 
 tites, though scarcely any thing to satisfy our hunger with. For 
 the first time since separating from the ship) I have eaten enough ; 
 but it was of raw, uncooked seal-meat — skin, hair, and all. For 
 the last few days, being sick, I had eaten nothing — scarcely any 
 thing for about a week ; and I was so very weak on getting up I 
 found I could hardly stand ; and I needed this food very much 
 to give me a little strength. I really need and should have more, 
 to make up for the days I ate nothing; but beyond this one meal, 
 shall not ask for or take it, but will subsist as well as I can on 
 the regular allowance. But this one night I have eaten heartily 
 of seal — yes, and drank its blood, and eaten its blubber, and it 
 will give me strength, I hope. I need strength for many reasons 
 besides my own use, 
 
 "We have discovered bear -tracks on our floe, but have not 
 seen the bears. Our four remaining dogs are very thin and poor, 
 and unless we get more food, they will either have to be killed or 
 must starve. It is a great pity, for they would be very useful in 
 bear-hunting. 
 
 ^^Nov. 22. Cloudy ; wind from the north-east in the morning, 
 shifting to the south-east toward evening. There are plenty of 
 seals around, but it is too dark to shoot ; we can't afford to waste 
 ammunition on doubtful shots; besides, a false fire scares away 
 the game, and does no good. Hans made out to get one seal to- 
 day. 
 
 " Yesterday and to-day have been very fine ; to-day clear and 
 cold, with light north wind. The natives have been out hunting, 
 but got nothing ; water all frozen over, and very dark for shooting. 
 
 "At midday the stars are visible, even with the moon shining. 
 Saw a fox to-day; he approached the hut, and could have been 
 captured if the men had kept quiet. But they are under no dis- 
 cipline, and have been under none since Captain Hall's death. 
 
EFFECTS OF LAX DISCIPLINE. 221 
 
 " My situation is very unpleasant. I can only advise the men, 
 and have no means of enforcing my authority. But if we live to 
 get to Disco, there they will have to submit, or I shall leave them 
 to shift for themselves. I will not live as I have lived here. But 
 here I am forced to live for the present: there is no escape. It 
 is not altogether their fault either; they were good men, but have 
 been spoiled on board the Polaris. For the last year nearly they 
 have been allowed to say, do, and take what they pleased. Such 
 as they were, had they been under good discipline, and left on 
 the ice like we are, I could have saved them ; but I don't know 
 how it will be now. But as to that, had there been any discipline 
 we should all have been on the Polaris now. And then, too, 
 there appears to be some influence at work upon them now. It 
 is natural, no doubt, that they should put confidence in one of 
 their own blood; but they will probably find out that 'all is not 
 gold that glitters' before they get through this adventure. 
 
 " We begin to suffer much with the cold ; when the body is 
 ill-fed the cold seems to penetrate to the very marrow. The hu- 
 man system can not repel cold well without a certain quantity of 
 fresh meat, and there is no meat better for the purpose than seal- 
 meat, if we can get enough of it. 
 
 "iVoi'. 27. Yesterday and to-day have been very unpleasant; 
 dark and cloudy, with a strong breeze from the south-west. The 
 natives have not attempted hunting; it is entirely too dark to see 
 to shoot. Joe has used the time well, however, in enlarging our 
 hut, I prefer living with him, as both he and his wife, and even 
 the child, can speak English, while in the men's hut I hear noth- 
 ing but German, which I do not understand ; and there are many 
 other annoyances, 
 
 "Joe and Ilannah have lived for years with and among civil- 
 ized people. Their native names are Ehierbiiig and Tookoolito; 
 they had traveled with Captain Hall on both his previous jour- 
 neys, and are frequently referred to in his book on 'Arctic Re- 
 searches.' They had also both been to England, and had been 
 received and entertained by the Queen ; they had also lived for 
 some time in Groton, Connecticut. It was, therefore, possible for 
 me to communicate my plans and wishes intelligibly to them, and 
 they to express their ideas to me; while the most of the crew, 
 either could not, or would not, speak any thing but German, with 
 which language I was wholly unacquainted. 
 
222 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 "Ilaving to live all the time on such small rations keeps the 
 subject of food constantly before one. It is one of the worst ef- 
 fects of excessively 'short allowance' that it causes the mind con- 
 stantly to dwell on the matter of eating. While the stomach is 
 gnawing, and its empty sides grinding together with hunger, it is 
 almost impossible to fix the mind clearly, for any length of time, 
 upon any thing else. The scenes that have passed before my 
 eyes during the last weeks were, many of them, worthy of the 
 best efforts of the most accomplished artist, and worthy of de- 
 scription by a poet's pen, but I have not the heart to enjoy or 
 record them ; for disgust at the mixed-up way in which I have 
 to live overpowers every other sentiment. 
 
 "The spare wood is giving out, and the difficulty of cooking 
 for so many in nothing but fiat tin pans is very great; and be- 
 sides, the lamps, which can only be used with blubber, there is 
 nothing to cook over but a * stove ' made out of an old reflector ; 
 but it is something to get the food even thawed, if it can not be 
 cooked. 
 
 "To-morrow will be Thanksgiving- day in the States. We 
 shall keep it, too, in our way, thanking God that he has guided 
 us so far in safety, and praying that he will continue to watch 
 over us. 
 
 '■^ Tlianksgiving -day, Nov. 28. It is very dark, and the day 
 comes in cloudy, with a strong breeze from the north-west. I 
 can just see a faint streak of twilight to the south (11 A.M.). The 
 cook has just turned out to prepare his Thanksgiving breakfast 
 for the men — nine in number, including Mr. Meyers, who lives 
 with them. He is cooking with the remains of the wood in the 
 shallow tin pans, and, as it is not easy to cook in such utensils 
 for so many, our company is divided into three messes. Ilans 
 cooks fur himself and family, and Hannah for herself, Joe, Puney, 
 and I. The natives use and prefer the lamp ; it consumes more 
 oil than we can well spare, but there is no help for it — we must 
 have something warm to eat if it can be had. 
 
 " We saved the can of dried apples for Thanksgiving, or what 
 was left of them. My breakfast consisted of a small meat-can full 
 of chocolate — it was not a very delicate 'coffee-cup,' but I had 
 used it before ; two biscuits, of a size which takes ten to make a 
 pound, with a few dried apples, eaten as they came out of the 
 can. This was the 'thanksgiving' part of the breakfast. To 
 
OUR THANKSGIVING DINNER. 223 
 
 satisfy my hunger — fierce hunger — I was compelled to finish 
 with eating strips of frozen seals' entrails, and lastly seal-skin — 
 hair and all — just warmed over the lamp, and frozen blubber; 
 and frozen blubber tastes sweet to a man as hungry as I was. 
 But I am thankful for what I do get — thankful that it is no 
 worse. If we can only get enough of such food as this we can 
 live, with the aid of our small stores, with economy, until April, 
 and then we must rely on game. 
 
 "No doubt many of my friends who read this will exclaim, 
 'I would rather die than eat such stuff'!' You think so, no 
 doubt; but people can't die when they want to; and when one 
 is in full life and vigor, and only suffering from hunger, he don't 
 want to die. Neither would you. 
 
 '■'■Ecening. I have been thinking of home and family all day. I 
 have been away many Thanksgivings before, but always with a 
 sound keel under my feet, some clean, dry, decent clothes to put 
 on, and without a thought of what I should have for dinner ; for 
 there was sure to be plenty, and good too. Never did I expect to 
 spend a Thanksgiving without even a plank between me and the 
 waters of Baffin Bay, and making my home with Esquimaux ; but 
 I have this to cheer me — that all my loved ones are in safety and 
 comfort, if God has spared their lives; and as they do not know 
 of my perilous situation, they will not have that to mar their en- 
 joyment of the day. I hope they are well and happy. I wonder 
 what they have had for dinner to-day. It is not so hard to guess : 
 a fifteen or sixteen pound turkey, boiled ham, and chicken-pie, 
 with all sorts of fresh and canned vegetables ; and celery, with 
 nice*white bread; and tea, coff'ee, and chocolate; then there will 
 be plum -pudding, and three or four kinds of pies, and cheese; 
 and perhaps some good sweet cider — perhaps some currant or 
 raspberry wine ; and then there will be plenty of apples, and 
 oranges, and nuts, and raisins; and if the children have been to 
 Sunday-school in the morning, they will have their little treas- 
 ures, besides all their home presents spread out too. How I wish 
 I could look in upon them ! I would not let them know I was 
 here, if I could. How it would spoil their day ! 
 
 " Well, I set down what I had for my Thanksgiving break- 
 fast; I will give my bill of fare for my dinner also. For the 
 four of us in this hut we had six biscuits, of the size above de- 
 scribed ; one pound of canned meat, one small can of corn, one 
 
224 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 small can of mock-turtle soup — each one-pound cans — making 
 altogether a little over three pounds and a half, including the 
 bread, for four persons; and this is an extra allowance, because it 
 is ' thanksgiving.' Mixing all the above in one mess together, it 
 was just warmed over the lamp, and our dinner was announced. 
 "The men had their cans of mock-turtle soup and corn, and 
 whatever there was that was extra just the same; there are no 
 officers' messes aboard the floe. It would have been pleasant 
 and appropriate to have had some general religious service in rec- 
 ognition of our national Thanksgiving; but, perceiving that it 
 could not be unanimous, I did not attempt it. The Germans 
 appreciate Christmas, but are not familiar with our 'Thanks- 
 
 giving. 
 
 A TEBILOITB HITUATION. 
 
m SlUUT OF LAND. 225 
 
 CHAP' ER XTIII. 
 
 Can sec the Land. — Hanss Hut, — Nearly dark : two Hours of Twilight. — Economiz- 
 ing Paper. — Northern Tjghts. — Lying still to save Food. — "All Hair and Tail. ' 
 — Weighing out Kations by Ounces. Heavy Ice goes with the Current. — The Es- 
 quimaux afraid of (.'annibalisni. — Fox-trap. — Set a Seal-net. — Great Responsibil- 
 ity, but little Authority. — All well, but hungry. — The fear of Death starved and 
 frozen out of me. — The shortest and darkest Day. — Christmas. 
 
 "iVby. 30. Yesterday it was cloudy, with a westerly wind; to- 
 day it is also cloudy, but almost calm and comparatively bright, 
 with a streak of twilight to the southward at noon. We can see 
 the land, for our eyes have become accustomed to this kind of 
 dim light, and partially adapted to it; as it comes on gradually, 
 of course it does not appear so dark to us as it would to one sud- 
 denly dropped down on our floe from the latitude of New York. 
 They would find it perhaps as dark as some of the shiit-up par- 
 lors into which visitors are turned, to stumble about until they 
 can find a seat, while the servant goes to announce them. 
 
 "It is a long time — nearly a month — since we lost sight of the 
 land. All hopes of seeing the Polaris have also long ago vanish- 
 ed; but the hope of getting to the land is not entirely abandon- 
 ed. I have been over the floe to the old house to-day after can- 
 vas. I called on the men for some of them to go with me. Four 
 responded to the call — the steward, the cook, Peter, and Augus- 
 tus. I wanted the canvas to line the hut of the native, Hans. 
 He has worked late and early to make the men comfortable, and 
 they have their hut comfortably lined, and the Esquimaux ought 
 to be too, especially as the little children are there ; and Hans'.s 
 wife is continually working for the men, by mending and mak- 
 ing for them. More of this hereafter. 
 
 "Z>tc. 2. Yesterday, the first day of winter, according to our 
 almanacs — our winter commenced on the 12th day of August, 
 when we, in the Polaris, were beset in the ice near Cape Frazier. 
 To-day Hans, poor fellow, is sick, and can not hunt; but Joe has 
 been out sealing, in spite of the increasing darkness, but he can 
 find no water. We have a very little light from 11 a.m. until 
 
 15 
 
226 AiKmc; kxpeuiences. 
 
 about 1 P.M. — two hours of glimmering light, so that we can just 
 make out to walk over the uneven ice, and then total darkness 
 is on us again. It must be still darker on the Polaris, if she is 
 still afloat; for we are farther to the southward than she. If we 
 keep drifting to the south, as I have no doubt we shall, because 
 thai is the set of the current, to the S.S.W., the light will in- 
 crease in proportion to the rate at which we float. 
 
 "I do not write every day — it icould take loo much paper. I 
 had some blank note-books in one of the ship's bags. On look- 
 ing for them a few days ago, found they were all gone. Some 
 of these men seize hold of any thing they can lay hands on and 
 secrete it. But no wonder ; they were taught that on board the 
 Polaris; they saw so much of pilfering going on there. It would 
 have demoralized worse men than these. 
 
 "I can scarcely get an order obeyed if I give one; and if I 
 want any thing done, I try to do it myself, if it is within the 
 compass of one man's strength. One thing, there is not much to 
 do, and hence not much necessity of giving orders or subjecting 
 myself to unwilling obedience. 
 
 ^''Dec. 6. Last night there was a fine display of northern lights; 
 the first I have seen since we have been on the floe. There may 
 have been others while we were all asleep. What first attracted 
 my attention was a peculiar dark segment immediately over the 
 horizon ; and as I had often seen the aurora borcalis spring from 
 just such a beginning, I watched it closely, and soon intensely 
 luminous streamers sprang from it, rising to a height of about 
 thiriy degrees ; it was a bright and beautiful sight, but not so 
 brilliant as many which I have seen. The wind was light, from 
 the N.W., and I should judge the temperature to be ton or twelve 
 below zero. I have no thermometer, and can not tell exactly. 
 
 "7>c. 7. Last night, being clear, Mr, Meyers was enabled to 
 take an observation. He has, fortunately, some instruments — a 
 sextant and ice-horizon, and also a star chart; and so he took 
 the declination and right ascension of y, Cassiopeaj, But he has 
 no nautical almanac to correct his work by, so that he can only 
 approximate our real latitude. He makes it 74° 4' N. lat,, 
 67° 53' W, long.; but I do not think it is any thing like that. 
 If we are as far south as that, we have drifted faster than I think 
 we have, 
 
 " There is no change in our way of living. We lie still in our 
 
AN AlUOEA. 
 
LYING STILL TO SAVE FOOD. 229 
 
 snow burrows much of the time, partly because there is nothing 
 to do — it is now loo dark to do any thing, if there was — but aiso 
 because stirring round and exercising makes us hungry, and we 
 can not afford to eat. The stiller we keep and the warmer, the 
 less we can live on ; and, moreover, my clothing is very thin and 
 light, quite unfit for exposure in this cold. Being hard at work 
 when the Polaris parted from us, and that event being so unex- 
 pected to me, I had not on even the usual amount of clothing 
 worn in this climate. The natives have been endeavoring to 
 hunt, but it is in vain. 
 
 " The darkness is on us ; we must wait for light. The day 
 before yesterday, one of the men — Bill, I think it was — shot a 
 fox ; it was a poor, thin creature, with hardly a pound of flesh on 
 its bones — 'all hair and tail,' as one of the men said; however, 
 they ate what there was of it, and picked his bones clean. 
 
 "Our allowance is now divided out by ounces. For a day's 
 rations, we now have six ounces of bread, eight of canned meat, 
 two of ham, and can only allow half of this for the children. 
 These ingredients are mixed with brackish water to season it, 
 and warmed over the lamp or fire; and this is all we have, and 
 it is more than we can really spare from our fast-decreasing 
 store. While the darkness lasts we can not hope to get seals, 
 and bears only come where seals are to be caught; so we need 
 not look for them ; and foxes are usually in the trail of bears. I 
 was in hopes, when that poor, thin fox was caught the other day, 
 that a bear might come along, but we have seen none. 
 
 "A few days ago it appeared as though we were nearing Cape 
 York; but I am satisfied it is not so. We are surely going to 
 the west side. Mr. Meyers thinks we are going to the east. He 
 judges, I suppose, by the winds being mostly from the north- 
 west; but the ice does not obey the winds — heavy ice, I mean, 
 like this; the loose floating surface-ice often does. But if the 
 currents have not changed their natural course, we must go to 
 the S.S.W. 
 
 "It would not matter in the least what opinion was entertained 
 as to the course of the floe, only that it makes the men uneasy ; 
 thinking that they are approaching the east coast, and nearing 
 the latitude of Disco, where they know there is a large store of 
 provisions left for the expedition. I am afraid they will start 
 off, and endeavor to reach the land on that side ; and if they do, 
 
230 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 it means death to some or all of them. None of us, after living 
 on such short allowance for nearly two months, could hope to 
 bear up under the fiitigue of walking and dragging a boat-load 
 of things over this rough hummocky ice. The thought has oc- 
 curred to me whether they might not take the boat, load it with 
 what provisions we have, and leave us and Hans's family with- 
 out resource ; but I will not harbor such thoughts without proof 
 
 "One thing set me on this train of thinking: Joe, who has 
 all along kept his gun and pistol, and did not seem willing even 
 to lend me the latter, has voluntarily brought it to me. lie says 
 ' he don't like the look out of the men's eves.' I know what . e 
 fears; he thlnls they v: ill first kill (ind eat Hans and fiimibj^ and 
 then he knoios IIannah''s, Punci/s, and his turn would be next. God 
 forbid that any of this company should be tempted to such a 
 crime ! However, I have the pistol now, and it will go hard with 
 any one who harms even the smallest child on this God-made 
 raft. Hannah seems much alarmed. 
 
 "Setting aside the crime of cannibalism — for if it is God's 
 will that we should die by starvation, why, let us die like men, 
 not like brutes, tearing each other to pieces — it would be the 
 worst possible policy to kill the poor natives. They are our 
 best, and I may say only, hunters; no white man can catch seal 
 like an Esquimau, who has practiced it all his life. It would 
 indeed be 'killing the goose which lays the golden cgg.^ 
 
 "/^ec. 12. No change the last five days; the wind still westerly, 
 and very cold — from 21° to 22° below zero. The cold is more 
 piercing and penetrating, from the little heat in our systems, from 
 lack of food. If we had enough to eat, we could do without fire ; 
 but no fire, and hardly enough to eat to keep from starving, puts 
 us in such a condition that we can not resist the cold. Probably 
 no one suffers more than I do in this respect, as 1 have less cloth- 
 ing than any of the others; but Mr. Meyers feels it badly too, 
 for he is not well. The intensitv of the cold has frozen over all 
 the cracks, so that no seal can be found, and there is too little 
 light to see them anyway. 
 
 " Hans is better. He had fixed up an ice-trap, and yesterday 
 he caught a fox ; it was a small white one. If there is any way 
 to catch an animal, these Esquimaux will do it. Now he has 
 made a hole in the ice, and set a seal-net, but, so fjir, without suc- 
 cess. If a seal is not caught soon, we shall be without even a 
 
FIRMNESS NECESSARY. 231 
 
 light in our hut; and as there is but a remnant of the boat left, 
 all will have to eat their rations cold. As if, too, all these mis- 
 erable circumstances were not enough to bear, the men begin 
 to complain, at least the German portion, which is the majority. 
 Thev do not seem to have self-control or the true courage of en- 
 durance. If there were any thing that could be done to relieve 
 us from our uncomfortable position, God knows I would be the 
 first to do it; but at present we are powerless to alter any thing 
 for the better. If they had moved a little sharper, and been will- 
 ing to abandon their traps the morning after we parted with the 
 Polaris^ they and we might all have been on board of her now. 
 
 " I have since understood that they had heard of the drift of 
 the Hansa crew, and the gratuity of one thousand thalers do- 
 nated by the Government to each man of that party, and that 
 they thought if they should drift likewise thoy would get double 
 pay from Congress. But little did t>ey realize the difference in 
 the circumstances! The ^fansa party had ample time to get all 
 they wanted from the vessel — provisions, clothing, fuel, and a 
 house-frame. And then the climate on the east coast of Green- 
 land is moderate in comparison to that of the west. If this did 
 influence them, I fear they will realize, by months of suffering, 
 the sad mistake they have made. However, they are organized 
 now, and appear determined to control. They were masters of 
 the Polaris, and want to be masters here. They go swaggering 
 about with their pistols and rifles, presented to each of them 
 after the death of Captain Hall. 
 
 " I see the necessity of being very careful, though I shall pro- 
 tect the natives at any cost; any disorder now would be ruinous, 
 I must be wary as well as firm. Situated as we are, there must 
 not be the beginning of quarreling. That would be fatal. They 
 think the natives a burden, particularly Hans and his family, 
 and they would gladly rid themselves of them. Then they think 
 there would be fewer to consume the provisions, and if they 
 moved toward the shore, there would not be the children to lug. 
 With the return of light and game, I hope things will be better, 
 if I can manage to keep all smooth till then. But I must say I 
 never was so tried in my life. 
 
 ^^Dec. 16, No material change ; still getting on in the old style; 
 wind mostly westerly and very light. To-day there is a strong 
 breeze from the same quarter. It is now noon, and we can see 
 
232 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 tolerably well to make our way over tbc jagged ice, but every 
 once in a while some one falls; but it is partly from weakness. 
 We are all what may be called well, yet some complain of pains 
 in the stomach. No wonder! — six ounces of broad, and five 
 ounces of meat per day in this climate! Few could stand it 
 without pain. How long we shall be able to bear it I can not 
 foresee ; but we can not use more with any regard to our ul- 
 timate safety. If we can weather it till the end of March or the 
 first of April, we can then rely on our guns; but game failing us 
 then, we perish. 
 
 '''' The fear of death has long ago been starved and frozen out of me; 
 but if I perish, I hope that some of this company will be saved to 
 tell the truth of the doings on the Polaris. Those who have baf- 
 fled and spoiled this expedition ought not to escape. They can 
 not escape their God ! 
 
 "Z>6c. 20, To-day seals have been perceived under the ice 
 by Joe and Hans, but they could not get at them. It gives all 
 courage, however, to know that there is life-giving food right 
 under us, only we must wait a little longer for light, so that we 
 can see to shoot them. To-morrow is the shortest day, and then 
 in about three weeks we may hope to see the sun once more. 
 
 "J9fc. 22. We have turned the darkest point of our tedious 
 night, and it is cheering to think that the sun, instead of going 
 away from, is coming toward us, though he is not yet visible. 
 The shortest and darkest day has gone, and I am thankful. 
 Friends at home are now preparing for Cliristmas, and so are we 
 too. Out of our destitution we have still reserved something 
 with which to keep in remembrance the blessed Christmas-time. 
 
 ^^Dec. 23, 24. Strong northerly winds. Both nights there was 
 quite a brilliant aurora; it seems to come timely to lighten up 
 our Christmas -eve. We shall have a slight addition to our ra- 
 tions to-morrow, and a slight change of diet too. All of our 
 iiams were used up about a month ago, except one ; this wc de- 
 termined to save to celebrate our Christmas. It will be but a 
 small portion for each, but it will be a change, and mark the day. 
 It is not very cold — about zero, 
 
 ^^Christmas-day! All the civilized world rejoicing over the an- 
 niversary of our Saviour's birth — and well they may ; but, 
 though we are out of the civilized world, and in a world of ice, 
 storms, cold, and threatening starvation, we are still trying to re- 
 
OUR CHKISTMAS DINNER. 
 
 288 
 
 joice too. Wo know and feel that God has not forgotten us, 
 that wc are his children still, and that he watches over us here, 
 as well as over those who dwell in safety in the cities and in se- 
 cure country homes, lie is trying us by a peculiar providence 
 indeed, but he has not deserted us. We will praise his name 
 forever. 
 
 " It is now 12 noon, and the twilight grows a little clearer. I 
 have just finished breakfast. We breakfast late because we only 
 have two meals a day, and the day is better so divided. My 
 Christmas breakfast consisted of four ounces of bread, and two 
 and a half ounces of pemmican warmed over the lamp. Some of 
 the men call this 'soup,' and some call it 'tea,' This is a full 
 ounce over the usual allowance of bread. Even that additional 
 morsel of bread was a treat, and very welcome. Our Christmas 
 dinner was gorgeous. We had each a small piece of frozen ham, 
 two whole biscuits of hard bread, a few mouthfuls of dried ap- 
 ples, and also a few swallows of seals' blood ! 
 
 " The last of the ham, the last of the apples, and the last of our 
 present supply of seal's blood! So ends our Christmas feast! 
 
 ^^=~?) 
 
 PLACINO HTUREH ON TIIK lUK. 
 
23-i ARCTIC EXI'ERIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Taking account of Stock. — Hope lies to the Hoiith. — Eating Seal-skin. — Find it ver)' 
 tough. — How to divide a Seal (i la Esquimau. — Give the IJaby the Eyes. — Differ- 
 ent Species of Seal. — New-year's Day, 1873. — Economizing our Lives away. — Just 
 see the Western Shore. — "Plenty at Disco." — Thirty-six below Zero. — Clothing 
 disai»]iears, — A glorious Sound. — " Kyack ! Kyack I" — Starvation j)ostponed. — 
 Thoroughly frightened. — Little Tobias sick. — Oh, for a sound-headed Man I — Four 
 ounces for a Meal. — The Sun re-appears after an Absence of eighty-three Days. 
 
 " I HAVE been examining what we have left in the store-house, 
 and which I have estimate^ must last us until April. We have 
 nine cans of pemmican, and six bags of bread. At our present 
 rate of allowance the pemmican will last two months, and the 
 bread three. By that time I hope we shall be where we can get 
 game. 
 
 ''The natives arc wonderfully persevering in hunting, but they 
 can't catch any thing so long as there is no open water. I can 
 just .see land to-day, but it is forty or fifty miles off; it is the 
 west coast, and latitude, I should think, about 72°. There is a 
 bright streak of twilight over it. We are gaining fast now on 
 the liglit; it travels toward us, and we are drifting toward it. I 
 have often thought, while 1 have been on the floe, liow different 
 my feelings would have been if we had been drilling the other 
 way, into the night and north, instead of aw;ty from it, as we are. 
 That would have been cheerless, indeed — I may say absolutely 
 hopeless. A.s it is there is some hope, if we can keep together 
 harmoniously, and are able to get some game. I hope yet to 
 land safely o.i the coast of Labrador, or, better yet, if we drift 
 safe to the whaling-grounds, we may have the good fortune to be 
 rescued by a whaler. 
 
 "I hope we will have the sun by the 20th of January. Our 
 drift, I think, has been about six degrees in two months, and in a 
 south-west direction. There is a strong breeze blowing. 
 
 "/>c. 26. Yesterday, toward evening, our strong breeze in- 
 creased to a gale, and is still blowing with a heavy drift of snow; 
 the wind is from the north-north-west. This is our first gale 
 
"WELL, BUT VERY rOOll IN FLESEI.' 235 
 
 since the latter part of November. It is now two o'clock (after- 
 noon), and the men have not yet turned out to get their pem- 
 micun tea. The Esquimaux are off, looking out for their traps. 
 They have two seal-traps set in the ice, and two fox-traps. 
 
 "/>>ec. 27. The gale has moderated, but still a strong breeze; 
 wind from the same point. Natives out as usual, looking for 
 seal; and they found the ice broken in many places: they saw 
 two seals, but could not get them. There is still so little light 
 that they can only see to shoot plainly for about two hours in the 
 middle of the day — an hour before and an hour after noon. To- 
 day, even at 12 M., it is dark, being cloudy. 
 
 " We are fortunately all well, but very poor in flesh, and on 
 attempting to do any kind of work find ourselves very weak. I 
 think this is the secret of the men keeping so quiet. They are 
 evidently uneasy, and from the talk which goes on in their hut, 
 and which I sometimes hear of, they plan great things; but when 
 they get outside and face the cold, and feel their weakness, they 
 are glad to creep back again to their shelter and such safety and 
 certainty as we have. 
 
 "We had, in our hut, saved a few pieces of dried seal-skin for 
 repairing clothing, but Ilannah has just cooked some pieces, and 
 we are trying to make a meal of it. The natives have very 
 strong teeth, and can go through almost any thing. I ate some 
 of it, but it made my jaws ache to chew it, it was so very tough. 
 We ate up all the refuse of the oil-lamp — tried-out blubber; in 
 fact, we eat any thing we can get that the teeth can masticate, 
 and which will aid in sustaining life until we can get seals to 
 help out our allowance. 
 
 "i>ec. 29. Strong breeze from the west yesterday, and to-day 
 ligbt breeze from east by south. Yesterday Joe and Hans were 
 out sealing ; Hans shot one seal yesterday, but lost him. It 
 seemed very stupid, but I suppose he could not help it. If we 
 were getting plenty we should not notice such an accident. Joe 
 also shot a seal to-day, but as it floated away from him, he shout- 
 ed out as loud as he could call ft)r his kyack, and some of the 
 men carried it over to him. He got in, and was fortunate enough 
 to bag his game; and we have all dined on it this evening. 
 
 " When a seal is properly divided, there is but one way to do 
 it. First the 'blanket' is taken off; that is, the skin, which in- 
 cludes the blubber — it is all ' one and inseparable ' as it comes 
 
236 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 from the creature ; then it is opened carefully, in such a way as 
 to prevent the blood being lost : it is placed in such a position 
 that the blood will run into the internal cavity; this is then care- 
 fully scooped out, and either saved for future use or passed round 
 lor each to drink a portion. The liver and heart are considered 
 delicacies, and are divided as equally as may be, so that all get 
 ;i piece. The brain, too, is a tidbit, and that is either reserved or 
 divided. The eyes are given to the youngest child. Then the 
 llesh is cut up into equal portions, according to the size of the 
 company; with us it was weighed out. Sometimes the person 
 who distributes it cuts it up as fairly as he can, and then, stand- 
 ing with his back to the pieces, another person calls out the 
 names of the company in succession, and each receives his por- 
 tion, without the distributer being able to show any favoritism. 
 The entrails are usually scraped, and allowed to freeze, and are 
 jifterward eaten. The skins are usually saved by the natives for 
 clothing, and also for many other domestic purposes, such as ky- 
 acks, oomiaks; the reins and harnesses for dog-sleds, tents ; and, 
 in fact, to almost every thing which is worn or used by the Es- 
 quimaux, the seal furnishes something. Even the membranous 
 tissues of the body are sometimes stretched and dried, for the 
 purpose of making semi-transparent windows to their huts. 
 
 "But we had only two uses for a seal; we ate the whole, ex- 
 cept such portions of the blubber as had to be reserved for the 
 lamps. This seal that Joe had shot was but a small one, and 
 when eighteen hungry people had dined there was nothing left 
 but the skin and entrails; we shall eat that too, but not to-night. 
 The blubber derived from this little seal was almost invaluabij 
 to us for our lamps ; and then its flesh saved so much out of our 
 bread and pemmican ; it seems also to put new strength into 
 every body. The blubber will last us for three weeks to warm 
 our food. 
 
 '* The small Greenland seal {Phoca vituUna) is a very pretty 
 creature in the water; its fur is a shiny white, beautifully spot- 
 ted with obscure dark and black spots on the back and sides, 
 the under part being white ; its ordinary weight fifty or sixty 
 pounds. These kinds of seal appear singly or with families, but 
 do not go in shoals, as the ' springing seal ' {Phoca hispkla) does. 
 These appear much more frolicsome than the others, and they 
 play together in the open water very much like the porpoise, 
 
NEW-YEAR'S DAY, 1873. 237 
 
 except that their movement is more like springing, and not so 
 much rolling as the latter. The large ' hooded ' or ' bearded ' 
 seal {Phoca barbata) is immensely larger than the others, and its 
 movements more ponderous. When assailed it makes a revolu- 
 tion, and goes down head first, like a whale; while the small seal 
 drops backward, tail down, the head disappearing last. The 
 brown seal's fur of commerce is mostly taken from the seals 
 found in Southern or Pacific waters, and is totally unlike the 
 Greenland seal. 
 
 '■^ New-year'' s Day^ Jan. 1, 1873. ' Happy New-year !' IIow the 
 sound, or, rather, the thought — for the sound I do not hear — 
 reminds one of friends, and genial faces, and happy groups of 
 young and old ! We shall not make many ' New-year's calls ' 
 to-day; nor will the ladies of our party have any trouble, in 
 ciphering up their 'callers !' Some of our young men, it is true, 
 may be troubled to keep their footing, but it will not be witli 
 overmuch winu and revelry. A happy New -year for all the 
 world but us poor, cold, half starved wretches. It is the coldest 
 day we have had since we have been on the floe — 29° below 
 zero. If well fed and clothed, would think nothing of that, but 
 as it is, this bitter wind searches one through and through, letting 
 you know every weak and sore spot in the body. 
 
 ^''New-year's dinner. I have dined to-day on about two feet of 
 frozen entrails and a little blubber; and I only wish we had 
 plenty even of that, but we have not. In addition to the above, 
 we had a little pemmican tea. 
 
 "The natives are out every day hunting, but as constantly fail 
 to find any thing. There is no water, and therefore no seals. 
 
 "Jan. 3. Joe found three seal-holes to-day, but it was so in- 
 tensely cold that he could not stay to watch them. Strong breeze, 
 and 23° below zero. The west land can be just picked up in the 
 twilight. 
 
 "The men seem quieted down. They have learned at last to 
 use a lamp for cooking; in fact it was absolutely necessary that 
 they should, after the boat was used up, with every bit of spare 
 timber and even the boards they laid on. There was no other 
 resource. Our one remaining boat must be -preserved at all 
 hazards. 
 
 " Jan. 7. Been very cold for the last four days ; the ice very 
 firm and compact in consequence, and inconsequence of that, 
 
288 AlKTIC EXPKKIKNCES. 
 
 too, there is no water, and no more seals caught. We have good 
 twilight now about six hours daily. Our pcmrniean is nearly 
 gone — about eight cans left, and five bags of bread; with econo- 
 my this could be made to last two months and a half Well, we 
 have economized our lives almost away already. The question 
 is how we shall hold out. 
 
 "The west land can just be seen in the distance — about eighty 
 miles off. We are now in the wide part of IJaflin Bay. It still 
 keeps very cold, ranging from 20° to 29° below zero. 
 
 "f/a?j. 9. Land still in sight, and just visible in the bright twi- 
 light. Tee continues firmly closed, and no water anywhere. 
 
 " The provisions are disappearing very fast — faster than the 
 distribution of rations will account for: there must be some leak. 
 1 would set a watch if it was possible for us to stand outside in 
 the cold nights, but in our reduced condition of flesh it would be 
 fatal; and my own clothing is too wretchedly thin to think of it 
 The men are under no control. They keep talking of trying to 
 start overland, and say they are determined to go next month ; 
 and if they do, the poor, deluded wretches will go to the east, mis- 
 led by false advice, thinking they can reach Disco and 'plenty,' 
 when we are all the time, and have been, except i)erhaps a little 
 while at the start, drifting to the western shore; but they have 
 full faith in their chosen adviser, and will not listen to reason. 
 If they were only risking their own lives it would be bad 
 enough; but, by divided counsels and divided action, the safety 
 of the whole is imperiled, and especially as they are determined 
 to take our only boat. Having burned up one, they now do not 
 hesitate to appropriate the other. I am alone ; no one to assist 
 me in case of need. I think even Joe fancies he could reach the 
 shore; but none of them could do it — no more than they could 
 walk that distance over hot coals of fire. If they persist in tak- 
 ing the boat, we shall all have to go too, for what can we do on 
 the ice, when it breaks up, without a boat? We must all inevi- 
 tably perish. We have no sled, as they have burned the old one 
 and all the pieces of plank out of which one might be made; so 
 we shall have to drag the loaded boat, with the children and wom- 
 en in, besides provisions, over this rough, hummocky ice — and 
 we are all too weak to stand that kind of work now, at least 
 most of us : there are a few strong ones, who have kept them- 
 selves so by pilfering the food from our store-house. They are 
 
DAVIS STKAIT. 
 
 239 
 
 very troublesome men. Much as it goes against me, I must try 
 and conciliate them, and turn them from their purpose. There 
 i.s some little time yet to operate; for they dare not start in 
 January. 
 
 " We are now in lat. 72°, and about in the middle of the strait — 
 Davis Strait. There is more chance of open water on the Green- 
 
 OAI'TAIN TYSON IN lUH AUOTIO OOBTUME. 
 
 land or eastern side, but little or no chance of our drifting toward 
 it, either this month or next. To the westward all looks solid 
 ice, so compact there is no chance for a single seal. Could we 
 only have a good strong southerly gale to break up the ice, there 
 would be some hope. Fresh food is what we want, and we can 
 
240 ARCTIC EXPEUIENCES. 
 
 not get it with this condition of the temperature — thirty-six helow 
 zero at noon. How would those poor, {'oolish men stand the night 
 without their huts, and exhausted witli travel and hauling the 
 boat? But I have no one to co-operate with me. All in the 
 men's hut are Germans but two — IJerron, who is English, and the 
 cook, colored. 
 
 "e/a/j. 12. The last three days it has been very cold ; thermom- 
 eter standing I'rom 35° to 37° below zero. To-day I thought of 
 looking for some little clothing — a few shirts and drawers, which 
 I had in a bag; there were also a pair of pants, and a vest and 
 several pairs of stockings. This bag was thrown over with the 
 other things on the ice almost by accident, and I had saved them 
 thus far, thinking, whenever we took to traveling over the ice, I 
 should need them still more than while I had the shelter of the 
 hut. But they are not to be found ; bag and all is gone. All 
 my little additional store, which I had relied on lor traveling, has 
 been stolen. It was very little, but I needed it so much, being 
 but half clau at the best. 
 
 " I have thus far wintered without either coat or pants, hav- 
 ing only short breeches. I was &.iving the pants to walk in. 
 What clothing I had on me when we parted from thp Pularis I 
 have still, not having had them off my back, realizing how much 
 more I should need the change when traveling; and now, when 
 they have made up their minds to travel, without consulting me, 
 they have robbed me of every thing. 
 
 "There is no alteration in the ice, and as there has been so 
 much provision stolen we may be compelled to risk the attempt 
 to get to the land in search of water and game. I do not sup- 
 pose we can hold out ; but I fear it will have to be tried if no 
 seal are caught, which at present there is no prospect of; and if 
 we fail, we simply perish. But as things are going now, we shall 
 perish here if we stay. It ivill be a struggle for life. 
 
 '■'•Jan. 15. Very cold the last few days; day before yesterday 
 the glass (Mr. Meyers'y thermometer) stood at 40° below zero. 
 Yesterday it was cloudy and thick, and toward evening a strong 
 gale sprung up from the westward, and is now (noon) blowing 
 very heavy, with a thick snow-drift. Hence we are compelled to 
 keep in our snow burrows. The weather, however, is not so 
 cold ; it has moderated considerably since the gale came on. Yes- 
 terday it was only —14°, and to-day it has ranged from 14° to 
 
A HKAL SHOT. 241 
 
 — 17°. I am greatly in hopes that this gale will open the ice, so 
 that we can get a lew seals. We have been very saving of our 
 oil, so we have a little lelt, enough, perhaps, to warm our food for 
 two or three clays. 
 
 "«/a«. 16. The gale Las abated ; it is calm this morning, but 
 quite thick ; the change of weather has, 1 trust, been favorable 
 for us. The Esquimaux went oil' early looking for seals, which 
 I hope in God they may find. 
 
 " I hear a pleasant sound, because it is a promising one for 
 water; the ice is pushing and grinding, which will surely open 
 cracks. It seems strange to think of watching and waiting with 
 pleasure for your foundations to break beneath you ; but such is 
 the case. In our circumstances food is what we most want; with 
 enough of seal -meat we can face all other sorts of danger, but 
 with empty stomachs we are ill prepared to meet additional dis- 
 aster. 
 
 "11.80 a.m. a glorious sound — a life- inspiring shout! I 
 heard the natives calling for their ' kyack !' That means they 
 have found water, and water means seals. I called to the men 
 to help get the kyack ; they had not yet turned out, and it 
 seemed to me a long time before there was any response to my 
 call. But I was so impatient that, even moments seemed long. 
 We had to carry the kyack about a mile. Found the natives 
 had shot a seal, which we got, and with which we returned in 
 triumph. 
 
 " It seems as though God lets one get just to the verge of de- 
 spair, and then sends some mitigating circumstance to relieve the 
 gloom. But I have never quite despaired yet, and don't mean 
 to while life remains. This seal appears to have come just in 
 time to turn the men from their purpose of traveling. If they 
 can get enough to eat they will be content. 
 
 "I ordered the seal to be taken into Joe's hut. As he did 
 the most toward getting food, I thought this was right. One of 
 the men, however, took upon himself to take it into their hut. 
 What with the evil counsel of this man and three or four others, 
 I sometimes fear it will be impossible to save this party of dis- 
 obedient and lawless men. They have divided the seal to suit 
 themselves, and I hope they are now satisfied ; but it does seem 
 hard on the natives, who have hunted day after day, in cold and 
 storm, while these men lay idle on their backs, or sat nlaying 
 
 16 
 
242 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 cards in the shelter of their huts, mainly built by these same 
 natives whom they thus wrong. They are anxious to get to 
 Disco, and would peril their lives for the rum which they think 
 they could get there, I should be as glad as they to get to some 
 civilized station, if it was only to get clean clothes; but reason 
 tells me we could not accomplish that journey. 
 
 "Our dogs — we have two left — came in somewhat disabled; 
 they appear to have had a skirmish with a bear. A bear would 
 not be a bad addition to our impoverished larder. 
 
 "'/ari. 17. There is a strong breeze from the north ; quite cold, 
 with a slight snow-drift. The natives are out as usual, hunting 
 for seal. They only got a small portion of the meat and a little 
 blubber of the one last caught, the men keeping an undue pro- 
 portion for themselves. This way of managing discourages the 
 natives very much ; they labor, and see others consuming the 
 fruits of it. But they dare not say much, for they are afraid of 
 their lives; but I know how they feel, for they have less reserve 
 with me. There does not appear much difference among the men, 
 excepting the English steward, Ilerron — he I believe to be more 
 conscientious. . : • . . 
 
 "These men brought themselves into this scrape last fall by 
 not obeying orders, when I endeavored to get back to the ship. 
 I have since learned that some of them thought to get notoriety 
 by drifting down on the ice, and persuaded themselves that they 
 would get double pay, which accounts to me now for their inert- 
 ness then, and their not having the rudder shipped, and only the 
 three oars in the boat ; but they find drifting on an ice-floe not 
 so pleasant. The provisions not holding out as they supposed, 
 they arc now thoroughly frvjhiened. 
 
 "I expect to get within forty or fifty miles of the land next 
 month, and hope to save most of the party. Ilans's little boy, 
 about six years old, is sick now, but all the rest are well. But 
 to travel one hundred or one hundred and fifty miles, which we 
 must do to reach a settlement, dragging the boat on her bottom, 
 with sleeping-gear, guns, ammunition, provisions, and the chil- 
 dren, who are too young to walk, but must be carried over the 
 rough ice — it simply can not be done: it is impossible. In a 
 few days we should have no boat; her bottom would be torn 
 and destroyed. Yet the men appear to hold their determination 
 to unshelter the women and children in the month of February. 
 
SCARCITY OF FOOD. 24ii 
 
 If I had even one sound-headed man to assist me, I might possi- 
 bly prevent them; but situated as I am — powerless against nine 
 — except so far as words have power; and just now they seem 
 insensible to reason. 
 
 " There has been, I suspect, an error of sixty or seventy miles 
 in Mr. Meyers's brain as to latitude from the start. It could not 
 have been, I think, Northumberland Island, after all, from which 
 we started. Yet how he could be so far out I don't see ; but he 
 has been wrong all the way as to our being near the Greenland 
 coast. But then, as he says, he has made ' observations ;' so that 
 ends the matter — for the present There is probably some fault 
 in the instruments. 
 
 ^^Evening. The Esquimaux have returned ; they found water 
 and saw some seals through the cracks, but did not get any. It 
 was so very cold standing watching for a chance to shoot, that even 
 they could not bear it, and returned. The glass marks 38° below 
 zero, and with a strong wind blowing, the cold is very piercing. 
 
 "It is remarkable how soon men become accustomed to hun- 
 ger, dirt, and cold. I do not suffer so much as I did with hunger, 
 though I have even less to eat than at first; dirt I have become 
 in a measure accustomed to ; and the cold would not conquer me 
 had I a fair allowance of clothing. But as it is, I suffer very 
 much from this cause. 
 
 " We are living on less than twelve ounces of food daily ; that, 
 if divided in three meals, would be but four ounces to a meal, 
 which is not enough to furnish heat or enable the system to re- 
 sist this Arctic cold. Joe and Hans say that they have very 
 often suffered before for the want of food, but they have never 
 before been obliged to endure any thing like their present ex- 
 perience. Considering that they are out of the huts so much 
 more than the rest, walking and hunting around, they really 
 ought to have a larger allowance of the food. I would gladly 
 give it them, but it would cause open mutiny among the men : 
 and such harmony as can be preserved I am bound to maintain, 
 for the good of all. Notwithstanding all my discomforts, my 
 dark and dirty shelter, my bed of wet and musty musk-ox skins, 
 fireless and cheerless and hungry, without one companion who 
 appreciates the situation, I shall be well content, and even hap- 
 py, if I can keep this party — worthy and worthless — all togeth- 
 er without loss of life until April, when I hope for deliverance. 
 
244 ARCTIC EXl'EKIENCES. 
 
 "e/c«j. 18. Blowing strong from the north-west; thermometer 
 —28°. Esquimaux sealing. We can see a few holes of water 
 in a northerly direction. If the ice is propelled by the wind 
 we should be making considerable drift to the south-east, but the 
 current will prove the stronger, I think, and take us the other 
 way; but the wind may possibly prevail, for we lost sight of the 
 west coast several days ago. If we are drifting with the wind, 
 I shall hope to raise the east coast as the sun comes to the hori- 
 zon. I think he will appear about the 24th — six days more. It 
 will be a blessed sight, ? ■ . « ^ i . 
 
 " How our two dogs live I know not. A few days ago Joe 
 discovered where one of them had been off hunting on his own 
 account, and had evidently encountered two bears, indicated by 
 the appearance of the ice, and held them at bay for some time. 
 One of the bears must have hit him, for he came bleeding to the 
 hut. The wound is but a slight scratch, however, and will soon 
 heal. ; , :/ 
 
 "«/an. 19, A.M. Fair, with light, variable winds. Joe and Hans 
 hunting. Yesterday they found water, and saw a number of 
 seals; but it was blowing heavy, and was very cold. Joe says 
 he tried to shoot, but that he shook so with the cold that he 
 could not hold his gun steady, and that his fingers were so numb 
 that he could not feel the trigger of his gun, and so the seal es- 
 caped. The Esquimaux work hard for themselves and for us; 
 but to-day there is little prospect that they can find water. The 
 wind moderated in the night, but it was so cold that all the holes 
 froze up, 
 
 -'■Afternoon. Since writing the above, at 9 a,m,, the great event 
 has occurred : the sun has re-appeared, after an absence of eighty- 
 three days. The very sight gives happiness such as those can not 
 know who see his cheering beams every day. The sun means 
 more than light to us: it means better hunting, better health, re- 
 lief from despondency; it means hope in every sense, for his 
 beams will lead us, God willing, in the; path of final rescue. He 
 has come this time earlier than I expected. We must have drift- 
 ed faster than we have realized. Last year, when we were on 
 board the Polaris^ the sun was absent one hundred and thirty-five 
 days ; but that was in our winter-quarters, in lat. 81° 38' N. ; and 
 we are now so much farther south that the sun comes to us ear- 
 lier. The sun remained above the horizon about two hours, dip- 
 
THE SUN RE-APPEARS. 
 
 245 
 
 ping a little after one o'clock, Mr, Meyers reports, having taken 
 an observation of Polaris (the 'north star'), and of y (Cassiopeia) 
 at their lower culmination, that our latitude is about 70° 1' 40" 
 N., and our longitude 60° 0' 3^" W. We should probably have 
 seen the sun even yesterday, had it not been for some interven- 
 ing icebergs of great height, which limit our view in the direction 
 in which he appeared. The sun will now continue to cheer us, 
 and God in his goodness has sent us a seal to-day, to warm and 
 lighten our dreary hut. 
 
 UUING TliROCOH AN lOSBEBO. 
 
246 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Belated Joe. — Wrong Calculations. — Drift past Disco. — Bcaiitj- of the Northern 
 Constellations. — Hans unreliable. — "Where Kum and Tobacco grow." — Forty 
 below Zero. — An impolite Visitor. — One hundred and third Day on the Ice. — I'er- 
 severance of the Natives in hunting. — Hans loses a good Dog. — Beautiful Aurora. 
 — The Mercury freezes. — Too cold for the Natives to hunt. — A little Blubber left. 
 — Trust in Providence. — Effects of Kefniction. — Believing Parties on the Ice. — 
 Our Lunch, Seal-skin with the Hair on. — A natural Death. — One hundred and 
 seven Days without seeing prini,?d Words. 
 
 "Joe shot two seals to^-day, about five miles from the hut, 
 where he found a hole of water, but was only able to land one ; 
 the young ice carried the other away. Encouraged, I presume, 
 by the appearance of the sun, he staid out later than usual, and 
 it was very dark — perhaps seemed all the darker from contrast 
 with our two hours of sunlight. I had a light of burning blub- 
 ber set outside for him to guide him to the hut; for it is very 
 easy to lose one's self on the pack-ice, Hans has already done 
 so once, and it was considerable trouble to find him. 
 
 *' Joe has got in all right, and I have had a feast of seal-skin — 
 hair and all; also a piece of 'lights,' and my share of pemmican 
 tea. And now to bed, such as it is, 
 
 ^'■Jan. 20. The natives off before there was any light, sealing. 
 It is now 9 A.M., and I can see very well. What a satisfaction it 
 is to know that we shall now have the sun every day, for a few 
 hours at least, unless it storms. To-day it is fair, with a light 
 north wind. 
 
 ''11 A.M. The sun is here, and right welcome. Last year, on 
 board the Polaris, I was the first to see and greet him after his 
 long absence. This year I was also the first to salute him on his 
 return. I was outside, banking up our snow-hut, and was alone ; 
 the men had not turned out yet, not knowing of the pleasure in 
 store for them. I did not expect to see sunlight for four or five 
 days, and was, therefore, almost as much surprised as delighted. 
 We must have drifted rapidly during the last two north-west gales. 
 
 " Many people complain at home if they have but one week 
 
BEAUTY OF NOKTHERN CONSTELLATIONS. 247 
 
 of dull, sunless, or rainy weather; how do they imagine they 
 would like to spend three months without a sight of the sun, and 
 then only see him for an hour or two in tlie day for nearly as 
 long a time preceding his disappearance and following his return. 
 
 " I thought yesterday I could see the west coast, but am not 
 quite sure. Mr. Meyers, who is the fountain of all knowledge 
 for his German brethren, places us within a few miles of the land, 
 and that on the east coast. Ilis inexperience in these waters, and 
 the inexactness of the instruments, or his handling of them, has 
 made great trouble in misleac'ng the men, and inspiring them 
 with a confidence of what they can do, which has no basis in fact 
 When Meyers says ' we are within a few miles of the east coast,' 
 of course they believe him; and some of them think that if they 
 should start now they could get to the coast of Greenland in two 
 days. They little know the labor before them ; they would get 
 to their deaths — that's where they'd get. 
 
 " I expect we shall drift by, if we are not already passed. Dis- 
 co ; but if the weather permits, I hope we may be able to make 
 Holsteinborg in the boat some time in March, if they will have 
 patience till then. It is not safe to start either this month or 
 next — not with these men. They have been housed all winter, 
 and when in their hut are valiant and brave, and talk of the 
 great things they will do ; but let them get out in the cold for a 
 short time and the pluck is all gone. This is the explanation, 
 no doubt, of why they have not as yet attempted to carry out 
 the plan they have so often discussed. 
 
 " Jan. 21. Clear and cold. I stopped outside as long as I could 
 stand it to-night, admiring the beauty of the stars. The northern 
 constellations seem to me more brilliant here than I have ever 
 noticed them at home. Ursus Major and Minor — if I remember 
 right, these regions are named for the Northern Bear — apicrog, 
 Orion, Andromeda, Cassiopeia, the Pleiades, and Jupiter, so 
 bright — part of Draco too. What a splendid night it would be 
 for telescopic observations! The air is so clear and pure, there 
 is neither cloud nor fog, nor any visible exhalations from this icy 
 land, or frozen sea, to mar the crystal clearness of the atmos- 
 phere ; but the cold pinches, and I had to leave the stellar beau- 
 ties above me, and crawl into my dirty burrow and horrid ox- 
 skins, to keep from freezing. The glass to-day has showed from 
 35° to -38°. 
 
248 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 " The Esquimaux saw seals yesterday, but could not shoot 
 them, or get at them, on account of tlic young ice. Tliey saw 
 also a great many dovekies, but they had no shot with them to 
 kill small birds. The dovekies are a good sign ; with proper 
 shot, we may soon be able to diversify our fare with these birds. 
 I have seen no land to-day either east or west, so the prospect 
 of an early release looks doubtful. If all would be content with 
 the regular allowance, our pemmican and bread would still last 
 two months. Then we must shoot game or starve. 
 
 ''^Jan. 22. Yesterday the sun appeared at the horizon at 10.45 
 A.M. Joe saw two bears, and could have shot them if it had not 
 been for Hans. This Ilans acts like a fool sometimes. He is the 
 same Hans who deserted Dr. Kane, and the same who was the 
 cause of Dr. Hayes losing two good men on his expedition. He 
 played the 'pious Moravian' on the good-hearted Kane, and 
 Hayes could not bring the conviction home to him of what he 
 suspected; but I never could read the account of the death of 
 Sontag, and the profit to his own family which Hans made out 
 of it, without feeling a little shaky about him. But he has work- 
 ed well for us, and is now older, and ballasted with a wife and 
 four children, which may add to his reliability. 
 
 " Meyers now states to his small constituency that they are 
 only thirty-eight miles from Disco; so they renew the project of 
 starting eastward as soon as the cold moderates a little, which 
 they expect it will do when the sun is ten or fifteen days high. 
 They have no notion of passing Disco, where they say ' rum and 
 tobacco grows.' No other place will suit them. There they ex- 
 pect to take what they please out of the stores left by the Con- 
 gress for this expedition. They say 'it is all paid for,' and as 
 much theirs as any body's. 
 
 " One or two gales from the north or north-west, and we shall 
 certainly be drifted past Disco ; for I can see no land on either 
 side, and therefore judge we continue in, the middle of the strait, 
 and not far from 70° N. 
 
 "The Esquimaux took the two dogs with them to-day, so that 
 if they should have the luck to see another bear they can make 
 sure of him. They started at daylight. It is very cold, —40° 
 hehw zero at 10.15 a.m. The sun makes his appearance a little 
 earlier every day, and continues in sight a little later. Joe is 
 not very well. I hope he will not get down sick, for we depend 
 
PERSEVERANCE IN HUNTING. 
 
 2-19 
 
 greatly upon him. Though such a little fellow, he is *a mighty 
 hunter' in hi.s way. 
 
 '•'■Jan. 23. Clear; light west wind. No success yesterday with 
 the huntens, but their motto is nil desperandum. Off again at 
 daylight this morning; but, from the still cold, no wind to ruffle 
 
 UANS, WIKB, ACGU8T1NA, AND TOBIAS. 
 
 the surface, I fear they will find no water. It is now,. 9 a.m., 
 quite light to the east and south-east; but I see no land any- 
 where, though the man of tvisdoni locates us within a few miles 
 of Disco. This same party caused Hall considerable trouble in 
 his time on board the ship, and he seems bound to do the same 
 for me. Hall put him down, for he had the power; but after 
 
250 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 that unfortunate death the foreign element had the real control, 
 though the nominal was in other hands. I do not know that he 
 wishes to make me trouble, but his illusions have that effect on 
 the men. 
 
 " The provisions are going fast. I know they are stolen, but 
 can not stop it without shedding blood ; r^nd I shall avoid that, 
 unless to prevent a crime that I suspect has been more than once 
 contemplated. I hope to linger on until March, when open wa- 
 ter and game may be looked for with greater prospect of success. 
 
 "4 P.M. Joe has just returned, bringing a small seal. He had 
 found no water; but after watching at a 'blow-hole' for a long 
 time, this fellow came and put up his snout to breathe, and Joe 
 was fortunate enough to spear him. He is now divided up, and 
 I have eaten a little of the raw meat. A seal of this size, divided 
 into eighteen parts, gives only a small piece to each ; but, small as 
 it is, we are very glad to get it. This is fine weather, though so 
 cold; thermometer —34°. Yet one could enjoy a walk in such 
 an atmosphere if well fed and clothed. 
 
 " I was thinking the other evening how strange it would sound 
 to hear a good hearty laugh ; but I think there never was a par- 
 ty so destitute of every element of merriment as this. I can not 
 remember ever having seen even a smile on the countenance of 
 any one on this floe, except when Herron came out of his hut 
 and saw the sun shining for the first time. Well here is little 
 enough to be merry over; but yet, if there had Vren a more con- 
 gruous company and less disaffection, it need haidly have been 
 quite so dismal. 
 
 "I have just breakfasted on a small piece of seal-meat, one 
 biscuit, and a small pot of seal's-blood soup. No one can tell, ex- 
 cept by experience, how much heat this seal's blood furnishes to 
 the body. I am not surprised at the well-fed Esquimaux endur- 
 ing cold so well. 
 
 "I am now compelled to record an event that occurred last 
 evening. Disgraceful though it be, it is part of this story, and 
 must go in. It will also show the animus of some of the men, 
 and is a specimen of what I have had to endure from them. 
 Robert — I forget his other name — entirely unprovoked, entered 
 my hut, and commenced to abuse me in the most disgusting 
 language, even threatening personal violence; but perceiving, 
 though I said but a few words, that I was entirely willing to af- 
 
CAPTURE OF A SEAL. 251 
 
 ford him every facility for trying his skill in that line of busi- 
 ness, he did not attempt to put his threat in execution; and find- 
 ing he could not provoke me to assault him, he shortly subsided 
 and left. I suppose the foolish fellow had probably been boast- 
 ing of what he could do, and the others had set him on by ' dar- 
 ing him' to do it. However, he walked off feeling a good deal 
 smaller, I think, than when he came in. He came back soon af- 
 ter and offered an apology — such an apology as a muii of his 
 character can offer. If he had stood alone, the incident would 
 have had less significance; but it was evident that he had his 
 backers. Meyers, of the Scientific Corps, is their chief counselor ; 
 but whether he was knowing to this, or had any hand in it, I 
 can not say, I hope not, for his own credit's sake. 
 
 " I know not how this business will end ; but, unless there is 
 some change, I fear iu a disastrous manner. They are like so 
 many willful children — all wanting to do as they please, and none 
 of them knowing what to do. If four, or perhaps five, of these 
 men were out of the road, the others, I think, would do well 
 enough. 
 
 "Since writing the above, the weather has come on thick; 
 light southerly wind, with snow, and temperature moderating. 
 
 "4 P.M. The Esquimaux have returned from their day's hunt, 
 bringing a fine seal. He is considerably larger than the one 
 caught yesterday, and will furnish us a fine meal; and, with full 
 stomachs, I hope the men will find themselves in a better frame 
 of mind. 
 
 "I have just dined on a small piece of liver — raw, of course, 
 about one yard of seal's entrails, and my pemmican tea, with a 
 little blood and blubber for dessert. And now I shall smoke my 
 pipe — for I have that comfort yet — and then there is nothing for 
 it but to kick my heels together till I get a little warmth in my 
 feet, and then to bed, 
 
 "Had I more paper I might write more ; but I have to be very 
 saving, and just jot down the events of the day and my thoughts 
 in a sort of short-hand of my own, to be written out, possibly, for 
 my family hereafter, if I ever get where there are stationers and 
 pen and ink. All the writing I do here is with a lead-pencil, 
 which I fortunately had in my pocket. Whether I shall be able 
 even to read it myself, if I ever get ashore, is somewhat doubtful. 
 
 '■^Jan. 25. I should like very much to accompany the natives 
 
252 AliCTIC EXrEKIENCES. 
 
 in their hunting excursions, but T can not, for the want of cloth- 
 ing. Like Miss Flora M'Flimsy, ' I have nothing to wear,' I 
 may say that 1 am almost without clothing — at least, anyway 
 suitable to be exposed all day to a temperature of 30° or 40° be- 
 low zero. Joe and Hans have deer and dog skin clothing, and 
 even they complain of the cold; and they have a change too, 
 which I have not. They can take theirs off and dry them over the 
 lamp ; but I have not been able to change mine for nearly three 
 months. It sickens me to think of it, saturated as it is with all 
 the vile odors of this hut. I have to sleep in them as well ; 
 for I should freeze to these wretched skins under which I sleep 
 if I did not. 
 
 "To-day is our one hundred and third day on the ice — the 
 most wretched of my life. The monotony is fearfully weari- 
 some ; if I could get out and exercise, it would help to relieve 
 the tedium. But, while this severe cold lasts, it is not to be 
 thought of There has been more grumbling to-day, but I can 
 get no clear idea of the cause. Idleness is probably the root of 
 much foolish talk that goes on; and there is neither authority, 
 nor any object or motive, to induce them to do any thing. But 
 if I was clothed as well as they are, I would at least go out and 
 assist the two natives in bringing home the game, if I could not 
 capture any — which any one could do, except probably spearing 
 the seal, which requires long practice and great skill. 
 
 "The two Esquimaux have hunted nobly all the winter, 
 through the darkness, cold, and storm. They saw the necessity 
 of it as well as I. They knew the men could not live without 
 fresh meat, or without fire to warm their food and melt ice for 
 water to drink ; so they have worked hard. Joe has been of 
 great service — Hans not. He is no great hunter, and, in fact, is 
 a little foolish ; but he has traveled early and late, and has done 
 what his natural abilities permitted. When they catch a seal, I 
 now take it in Joe's hut and have it fairly divided. Atone time 
 the men saw fit to lug them off into their hut, and undertook to 
 cut them up. But skinning a frozen seal is not pleasant work, 
 and they soon got tired of it, and are now willing to have it done 
 for them. The two last seals Joe brought into his hut, where I 
 live also. But I took the precaution to ask two of the men to 
 come in and see that it was equally divided, but they would not 
 come. So I told the natives to give them half of the meat, half 
 
LOSS OF A BEAU-DOG. 253 
 
 of tlio blubber, and half of the skin, and the other half was di- 
 vided between Ilans's family and ours. 
 
 "Now it has sometimes haj)pened that when the Esquimaux 
 have been tramj)ing about for hours on the hunt for seals, and at 
 last get one, they are by that time very hungry ; and as, when they 
 bring it in to the party, they know they will get no more than 
 those who have been at home all day, they sometimes open the 
 seal, and cat the entrails, kidneys, and heart, and perhaps a piece 
 of the liver; and who could blame them? They must do it to 
 keep life ia them. They could not endure to hunt every day 
 without something more, occasionally, than our rations. Yet the 
 men complain of this, and say they do not get their share : so un- 
 reasonable and unreasoning are they, or so selfish. When it is 
 caught and skinned for them, they ought to be wiliirg to give 
 the hunters a generous portion, 
 
 "It is a beautiful day — no wind ; and, on going out, I thought it 
 much warmer than it really was. The cold soon began to pene- 
 trate. The glass tells 40° below zero. The natives returned 
 about six o'clock. They have been a long distance to-day, and 
 discovered signs of water to the eastward, and tried to reach it ; 
 but it was too far off, and therefore failed. They had no success 
 in getting any game. 
 
 " Jan. 26. Fair ; light north-west wind, and very cold. Joe and 
 Hans have started off early, to try and reach the water they saw 
 to the eastward yesterday, if they can perceive any evidence of 
 its being there to-day. 
 
 " 1 fear we have lost our best bear-dog. Hans, the simpleton — 
 for he seems little better — had the dog out with him yesterday ; 
 and instead of keeping his harness on, to have control over his 
 movements, and also the means of bringing him back, when quite 
 a long distance away, took the harness off and let the dog go ; 
 and he has not yet found his way back to us. I fear he is lost. 
 Joe had the other dog with him, hoping they might meet a bear. 
 The dogs are very useful in bringing tliem to bay, giving the 
 huuter time to make aim and shoot. It is now near noon, and 
 the breeze freshens. The thermometer is —42°, the coldest day 
 yet we have had on the floe. 
 
 " Last night, at midnight, there was a brilliant aurora. No 
 doubt many interesting natural phenomena occur without our 
 observing them ; for we are too wretched, and I am unable, for 
 
254 ARCTIC EXPKUIENCES. 
 
 want of clotliing, to stay out long at a time, and I have no means 
 of taking measurements or of reeordin^' observations wliich would 
 have any scientific value. If I had, I would try and endure the 
 cold sufficiently long to make them. But as 1 came out of our 
 hut at just about 12, low meridian, the heavens appeared to be all 
 on fire; from the south-west to the north-east, from the horizon 
 to the zenith, it was shooting here and there, like flames of fire in 
 a strong wind. The light was at one time almost overpowering. 
 I wish there had been some artist present capable of represent- 
 ing it, or at least who could have given some faint idea of the 
 scene, for which words are totally inadequate. I dare say we miss 
 many such sights, and also others of meteors and shooting-stars ; 
 but if this life should last much longer we shall forget that we 
 have brains, and remember only that we have stomachs. 
 
 " 3 P.M. Joe has returned, bringing a fine large seal. We al- 
 ready have our pemmican tea, made over the lamp ; so we thank- 
 fully divide the seal, which is such a welcome addition to our 
 meal, and eat a little of the raw meat, and a few inouthfuls of 
 blubber with it, and then have a smoke. But that luxurv will 
 not last long; I am on my last plug of tobacco to-day. The mer- 
 cury is frozen, so we know not how cold it is. 
 
 '■'■Jan. 27. The day-break comes to us now at about 8 a.m. on 
 a clear day ; and, that all the daylight may be used, we get our 
 breakfast much earlier than we did. It makes the day seem verv 
 long to us who have nothing useful with which to fill up our 
 time, as there are very long intervals between our meals. We do 
 not get game enough to allow ourselves three meals a day. Per- 
 haps that happy time may come, but it is not here yet. The men 
 breakfast about eleven. They do not go out much, it is so very 
 cold. The moon changes to-day or did last night, and there are 
 now fall tides ; so I hope the ice will open, which will enhance 
 the probability of our getting a supply of seal-meat. I had my 
 seal's-blood soup, a bit of the meat, and one-tenth oi" a pound of 
 bread. The mercury continues frozen. 
 
 " 1 P.M. The Esquimaux have returned, the severe weather 
 proving too much for them, inured to it from childhood though 
 they be. If they could have enough of the seal-meat to keep up 
 a proper circulation of the blood, quickening its course through 
 the veins, for which this kind of food is remarkable, they would 
 have gone on, but possibly without success, as the water is of 
 
THE "GERMAN COUNT." 255 
 
 course all frozen over, and the chance of spearing a seal over its 
 breatliing-hole seems slight indeed. We have, I arn thankful to 
 say, quite a little store of blubber, which will last us, I hope, 
 until the weather moderates, and also some seal-meat left. And 
 I believe God is watching over us, unworthy though we be, and 
 that he will guide us into safety, and where there is abundance. 
 Ilis providence has evidently been over us so far ; for v/hen we 
 have been reduced to the greatest extremity, and thought we 
 could endure no longer, then he has sent a seal to give us fresh 
 strength and hope. So I will trust Ilim for the future who has 
 preserved us so far on this perilous journey. 
 
 "e/(Oi. 28. Fair; light wind from the south-west. Joe and Hans 
 off again this morning hunting for meat to feed the hungry. 
 Very cold still ; -40°. 
 
 " I do not see my way clear yet. Can see no land either to the 
 east or west, so we must be for from both shores, and are proba- 
 bly near the middle of the strait, with a slight set to the west. 
 We can not be near the east coast, that is certain, for they have 
 not so low a temperature there in this latitude. They catch 
 whales off the coast there in February, ordinarily at Holstein- 
 borg, and sometimes even at Disco. Yet the ' German Count,' 
 as the men begin to call Mr. Meyers in jest, makes his country- 
 men believe that we are near to the east shore. 
 
 " What convinces me that we are a long way from Disco, which 
 I know so well, is. that Disco is a very high rocky island, which, 
 if we were near it, could certainlv be seen. I have been there 
 many times, and know all the coast south of it well. Disco can 
 easily be seen on a clear day eighty miles distant, and I have seen 
 it when one hundred miles off, raised by refraction — not an un- 
 common phenomenon on the Greenland coast. 
 
 " If Meyers had been left on board the Polaris, these foreigners 
 would probably have behaved better, for then they would not 
 have had any one to mislead them about our position. His in- 
 fluence is naturally considerable over them, because they think 
 he is educated, and ought to know ; and being also their country- 
 man, they probably fancy he takes more interest in their wel- 
 fare; just as if it was not as much my interest to get to dry land 
 as theirs ! But I have sailed these seas too often to be much de- 
 ceived about our course. 
 
 " I know liOt whether I can keep these men quiet until the 
 
256 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 temperature rises. Perhaps it may moderate in March, and then 
 they may yet be saved ; but, should they start for the shore in 
 February, tliey are lost. The sun has not yet much influence. 
 They will find no water to drink, have but little to eat, must 
 sleep unprotected except by their wet ox-skins, if they have the 
 strength even to drag them along; in fact, they must perish. But 
 if they can be induced to hold on until the season is further ad- 
 vanced, many cracks will be found in the ice, and some of them 
 may lead us near the coast, or at least to open water ; and in these 
 cracks we shall find plenty of seals, and on them we can live till 
 it is a suitable time to attempt reaching the land. At our pres- 
 ent rate of drift, we may even be picked up by some whaler. 
 
 " I have relieved parties on the ice. They had not drifted so 
 long, to be sure, nor come so far, nor so many of them; they were 
 all men, too — not a boat-load of women and children — but the}^ 
 were far away from their ships, hungry and destitute. There 
 were some runaways from the Ansel Gihhs, and also another party 
 — I forget the circumstances now — from the brig Alert. I have 
 also relieved Captain Ilall two or three times on his former voy- 
 ages ; so I hope Providence may send us a rescue before it is too 
 late. 
 
 "It is new, past 3 p.m., quite light. The mercury is frozen 
 again. It is extremely cold. Joe and Hans have not returned 
 yet. The men are cooking, or, rather, trying to warm, some seal- 
 shin, which serves us all to-day for luncli. We eat it hair on, as 
 there is not sufBciont heat to scald it off. Boiling water will take 
 it ofl', but we can't get that. It is very tougli. My jaws and 
 head too ache with the exertion made to masticate it. The dogs 
 have the advantage of us there ; they will bolt down long strips 
 of it. if tliey are so well off as to get it, without a{)parently any 
 chewing at all. Thev will eat any thing but stone or metal, and 
 make very sisort work of their harness, or any thing of tiiat kind, 
 whi<'h is left in their way. 
 
 "<J P.M. The nativi's have returned; liav<> had no Hueeetw, and 
 we have now l()St «»ur only dog. .Kk" had him *iih him t<i-day. 
 On returning, the fKK)r animal was takt^n «ick and difd. I fetl 
 biin hi>*t night on what I wum eating mvjwll', ^I'ulhkin and pn-tty 
 trell-fH«'ked iKnicH; it may \Hi that the Ixxieti cautwtd hit4 dcufh. tjc 
 -^i<*v nwallow iHiek Im^h* yiufv'H, or it may Imj iKiiuetbuig hu« ha|j- 
 ftetml to Itiin that I do nut know of. Well, it in the fimt and 
 
"LITTLE JOE."' 257 
 
 only natural death that has occurred, and that, surely, is wonder- 
 ful : but it is astonishinc' what men can endure. It must be that 
 the hoiye keeps us alive, and the poor beasts have not that to sus- 
 tain them. They feel all their present misery, and can not an- 
 ticipate relief. It will be a very difficult matter to capture a 
 bear now, without a single dog. 
 
 '■''Jan. 29. Foggy, with light east wind. The Esquimaux off, 
 as usual, on the hunt. They do not stop for fog, cold, or wind. 
 They understand the situation they are in, and consequently 
 they are the only ones here I can in any measure rely on. Were 
 it not for 'little Joe,' Esquimau though he be, many, if not all, 
 of this party must have perished before now. He has built our 
 snow-hut?, and hunted constantly for us; and the seals he has 
 captured have furnished us not onl}' with the fresh meat so es- 
 sential to our position, but without the oil from the blubber we 
 could neither have warmed our food nor had any means of melt- 
 ing ice for drink. We survive through God's mercy and Joe's 
 ability as a hunter. 
 
 " We are all 11 but one — Ilans's child, Tobias. I can doctor 
 a sailor, but I don't understand what is the matter with this poor 
 little fellow. His stomach is disordered and very much swollen; 
 he has been sick now for some time. He can not eat the pemmi- 
 can ; so he has to live on dry bread, as we have nothing else to 
 give him. The wonder is not that one is sick, but that any are 
 well. 
 
 " The mercury is still frozen. The men are seldom outside of 
 their hut now. From the nature of tlii^ food we live on, and the 
 small quantity of it, tliere is no imperative necessity whieh calls 
 them outi^ide — perhaps* not m<»re than oiice in fourteen days. 
 Oh, it iH deprcHHin;; in the extreme to sit crouched up all day, 
 Ife'jth nothing to do but try and kee[> from freezin>.j! Sitting long 
 at a lime in a chair is irkHomc enou};h, l)Ut it is fur more vvcari- 
 iwnne whi-ti th«'n* in no proper \n\wv lu Kit. No lxK>kH either, no 
 J0ibl<% no I'ravcr b<Mik, no magnyiincM or nrwepaperM not i-ven a 
 fittrj^rx IJVW./// -wu» unvinl by atiy one, though there are almost 
 aiwayN mon* or Inw of them' to Ik* found in a lihip'ii company 
 m\urt' thin- are any r«*iiiliiig hhmi. Ni'Wi«[)a|H'rn I have leariuMl na 
 do without to {i grent I'Xtitit, having Iwfn at wa no mu<'h of my 
 life, where it i« im}Hii«i{!»k* lu gel theiii ; but mmte iKirt of n mlinff 
 i al w!is » liM'l U'Torf. h is tmu: «m ffnili.,1 ,t,ui *< »>i« Uu^ aimx i 
 
 IT 
 
258 ARCTIC EXPEKIEXCES. 
 
 have seen printed ivords f What a treat a bundle of old papers 
 would be! All the world over, I suppose some people are wast- 
 ing and destroying wiiat would make others feel rich indeed. 
 
 "As it is, the thought of something good to eat is apt to oc- 
 cupy the mind to an extent one would be ashamed of on ship- 
 board or ashore. We even dream of it in our sleep ; and no 
 matter what I begin to think about, before long I find, quite in- 
 voluntarily, as it were, my mind has reverted to the old subject. 
 Some of the ancients, I believe, located the soul in the stomach. 
 I think they must have had some such experience as ours to 
 give them the idea. I miss my cofifee and soft bread-and-butter 
 most. Give me domestic bread-and-butter and coffee, and I 
 should feel content until we could better our condition. 
 
 "Joe has returned (at 1 P.M.); the weather too thick and cold 
 for him to accomplish any thing. lie was, of course, very hun- 
 gry ; so was I. We had two or three yards of frozen seal's en- 
 trails left from the last seal, and on that we lunched, eating a lit- 
 tle blubber with it. Poor Captain Hall used to say he really 
 liked blubber. I like it a good deal better than nothing! To 
 men as hungry as we, almost any thing is sweet ; this that we 
 ate was frozen as hard as the ice we are on. 
 
 ^'J(UL 30. The change of the moon has not benefited us. There 
 is no opening in the ice; the weather is too calm and cold, —34°. 
 Could we get a heavy southeily gale, it wo Id rapidly break up 
 the ice ; but we have not had a strong ^ ■. Tom the south all 
 winter. 
 
 jkMtitUi mmnium. 
 
A SOLEMN ENTRY. 259 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 A solemn Entry made in tlie Joninal, in View of Death. — More Security on the Ice- 
 floe than on board the Po/uris. — Eating the Otf'al of better JJays. — Tobias very 
 low. — Anticipations of a Break-uj). — Hope. — Joe, Hannah, and little I'uney. — "I 
 am so hungry." — An interior View of Hans's Hut ; his Family. — Talk about reach- 
 ing the Land. — Inexperience of the Men misleads their Judgment. 
 
 "It is as well to look the future fairly in the face, and none of 
 us can tell who will survive to see this business out. Death is 
 liable to come to all men; and especially may one in my situa- 
 tion prepare himself for it at any moment; and therefore, consid- 
 ering the possibility, I wish here to set down a few facts, as well 
 as my own opinion, which, whether I live or die, I sincerely hope 
 will come to light. 
 
 * * * * * * * * 
 
 " I make the above statement not knowing whether I shall get 
 through this affair with life. I have told Joe and Hannah, should 
 any thing happen to me, to save these books" [this, with other 
 notes, was written on small pocket blank -books. — Ed.] "and 
 carry them home. It is very badly written with pencil, in a 
 dark hut, and with very cold fingers ; but, so help me God, it is 
 all true. 
 
 "My present life is perilous enough; but I can truly say that 
 r have felt more secure slce])iiig on this floe, notwithstanding the 
 disaffection of some of the men, than I did the last eleven months 
 on board the Puhiris. 
 
 ^^Jnu. 31. Fair; light east wind; the natives ofl' hunting very 
 »\irly. They found water yesterday, but got no seals. The 
 weatiier is mucli warmer — only 22" below zero this morning. 
 We are evi<lently drifting westwtird. 1 hope to .see the land 
 soon; but both ejwt and west there is a heavy mist, which the 
 HU!i has not power eiioii^di to dispt-rse. 
 
 ''■ Afli I'li'xin. It hus now come on thick; wind north-eant. I 
 have just lunched on scal-Hkin. Tliin time we have been e.'iaijlcd 
 10 cook it, and \ di»«ctiver that it in all the bettir --qtiitc tender. 
 \V.' tut only ate th«; «kin, but drank the greasy water it waw 
 
260 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES, 
 
 boiled in. The time occupied in heating five quarts of water 
 over the lamp is from two to three hours. 
 
 "Ilaniiuii is now pounding the bread, preparing our pemmican 
 tea. We pound the bread fine, then take brackish ice, or salt- 
 water ice, and melt it in a tin pemmican can over the lamp; 
 then put in the pounded bread and pemmican, and, when all is 
 warm, call it 'tea,' and drink it. It reminds me very much of 
 greasy dish-water; but in this climate a man can eat many things 
 which in a warmer latitude the stomach would revolt at. The 
 offal of better days is not despised by us now. As to dirt, we 
 are permeated with it; and the less I think about it the better I 
 feel, for L know not how it is to be remedied. We can scarcely 
 get water enough melted to serve for drink. 
 
 "The temperature this evening is 3-1° below zero — 6 P.M. 
 The Esquimaux have returned again without game. They have 
 been a lon<j; distance to the eai;tward in the direction where thev 
 discovered water yesterday, but to-day it was all frozen over. 
 They started at seven this morning, and have but just returned; 
 and they do all this traveling on a few ounces of food daily. It 
 is indeed a hard struggle for life, and the result doubtful. 
 
 '' We have just had our pemmican tea, and have each taken a 
 few scraps of refuse from the dirty lamp. It all helps to fill up, 
 and keep the blood circulating. Poor little Tobias is very low — 
 nothing but a skeleton ; he can eat seal-meat, but steadily rejects 
 pemmican. I wish I knew what to do for him. 
 
 ^^ Feb. 1. It is blowing very heavy from the north-west; too 
 much wind for any hunting to-day. We keep closely housed in 
 our dens. Should an accident hnppen to our fioe serioi;s enough 
 to turn us out of our burrows leaving us shelterless in such a 
 .>»tortn of wind, with our blood no tliin, we should none of us live 
 long. 
 
 "We are poorly off indeed to-day; not even a bit of skin or 
 entrails to appease the biting hunger. For the last six or eight 
 days we have had sonicffdnfj to lunch on — either skin or frozen 
 entrails; to-day we have neither; and now we realize the value 
 of those unsavory morsfls. and 'eel i!ie want of them more and 
 rnon* i-verv hour. S> do the most unappreciate<I ' hhsHingK 
 brighti'ti iw tht-y take tlu.'ir fliji;lit.' 
 
 "Tliis powerful wind wilt uundy cnrry us pn^t DtHCfi. Wt- 
 ought ti> be ruariy went of tin- mluiid now. The (j<Tnimi.'4 appear 
 
ANTICIPATIONS OF A BREAK-UP. 261 
 
 very sad at the thought that their ' promised land ' is gone from 
 them forever. They begin to think now that any land where 
 they can get something to eat is good enough. Wiio knows? 
 They may come to their senses yet before we get througii. 
 Wlien men refuse to take advice, they must see their error firsl 
 before they can repent of it. 
 
 "The Esquimaux inform me that the cracks in the ice wlierc 
 they have been sealing are not limited to the 'young ice,' but 
 cut clear through the old — which is ah intimation that our floe 
 may now split up at any time if the wind continues. As it is, 
 heavy pieces from the edge of the floe have gone; and the huge 
 icebergs which have accompanied us on our long journey are mov- 
 ing rapidly before the wind. Every thing feels its power, but as 
 yet we have not been disturbed, although surrounded by bergs 
 heavy enough, if propelled upon our encampment, to crush us to 
 atoms. We have thus far floated safely, yet it causes reflection : 
 the ice, we know, must break up sometime; and whether we shall 
 survive the catastrophe we can not tell. We are at the mercy 
 of the elements, and can do very little for our own protection. 
 
 "Even now the storm rages without, while tierce hunger rages 
 within; and though sometimes overcome with sad thoughts, as 1 
 think of family, children, and friends at home, I am not without 
 hope. God, in creating man, gave him hope. What a blessing! 
 Without that we should long since have ceased to make any 
 etfort to sustain life. If our life was to be always like these last 
 months, it would not be worth stru<jfiilinif for; but I seem to have 
 u premonition, though it looks so dark just now, that we shall 
 weather it yet. IIoi>(' wiiispers, 'You will see your home again. 
 The life -spark is not going to be extinguished yet. You shall 
 yet tell the story of God's deliverance, and of this long trial, and 
 praise him for his mercies,' 
 
 "Our old pemmican can. cut in half, wliich has served us for a 
 tHJoking- vessel this wiiiti'r, and in which all our food has been 
 warmed that has not bern oaten raw or frozen, got full of holes; 
 but Hannah has managed to doctor it up ho that it will liold out 
 a little lt)nger. I «lare not I«M>k t«> see wiOi what the holes have 
 been stopped. It iy dark enough inside of this ' igltM),'iis the na- 
 tives call it, but nevertheless I am comindhnl U> shut my eyes 
 on many tKurjisions. The wind still continues to blow vi»)l«ntly. 
 
 "t)<M; and IIun!udi are sitting in front of ihc lamp, playing 
 
262 
 
 ARCTIC EXPERIEN'CES. 
 
 checkers on an old piece of canvas, the squares being marked out 
 with my pencil. They use buttons for men, as they have noth- 
 ing better. The natives easily learn any sort of game ; some of 
 them can even play a respectable game of chess ; and cards they 
 understand as well as the ' heathen Chinee.' Cards go wherever 
 .sailors go, and the first lessons that the natives of any uncivilized 
 country get are usually from sailors. 
 
 UANNAH \M> Jut: IM.AVIMU UMItOIUUlM. 
 
 *' Little Piniey, Joo and Hannah's adopt***! child, a little ^'irl. 
 is sittinj;^ wraj>pt'd 'ii a nmsk-ox skin; overy few minute.** she 
 gays to her mother, 'I am m Uutv^ryl' The children ofi«n cry 
 with hunyrer. It makes my heart uehe, but tlmy are obliged to 
 b<mr it with tile rent. 
 
 "Still that Itrec/.' m Ijjowin^ from the north-wcNt ; but, in wpite 
 of id violi'iHM', .liM' and Huns are g<#ing to try and hunt, Vtnn 
 felluwK, iIh V kn«»w Ui«ir vitimiiort to b«* dvn^HmU: We Um¥e 
 Ar\fU^\ mpidly in thi* itnlt*, ami m^mi, i tlunk. im muiii u( liimm^^ 
 
 "An mum an the weather nunientea a littic, I nhali try {mmI (^t 
 
INTERIOR OF IIANS'S HUT. 268 
 
 a false keel on the boat, so as to protect her some when travel- 
 ing. I saved the keel of the other boat in view of this. It is 
 too cold as yet to work with tools, and we have but little to work 
 with. But we must get ready soon. Unless there is some 
 change, we must move or starve. We must find water, for game 
 will soon be our only reliance ; and right glad would I be if I 
 could be sure of getting enough seals to keep the breath of life 
 in eighteen souls — nineteen; for the baby, Charlie Polaris, can 
 not get nourishment if the mother remains unfed. 
 
 "On going into Ilans's hut the other day to see the sick boy, 
 the miserable group of children made me sad at heart. The 
 mother was trying to pick a few scraps of 'tried-out' blubber out 
 of their lamp, to give to the crying children. Augustina is al- 
 most as larj^e as her mother, and is twelve or thirteen vears old. 
 She is naturally a fat, heavy -built girl, but she looks peaked enough 
 now. Tobias is in her lap, or partly so, his head resting on her 
 as she sits on the ground, with a skin drawn over her. She 
 seemed to have a little scrap of something she was chewing on, 
 though I did not see that she swallowed any thing. The little 
 girl, Sueci, about four years old, was crying — a kind of chronic 
 hunger whine — and I could just see the baby's head in the moth- 
 er's hood, or capote. The babies have no clothing whatever, and 
 are carried about in this hood, which hangs down the mother's 
 back, like young kangaroos in the maternal pouch, only on the 
 reversed side of the body. All I coidd do was to encourage 
 them a little. T iiavo nothing that I can give them to make them 
 any more comfortuble. I was glad, at least, to see that they had 
 some oil Irft. 
 
 "It is vet vt'rv niMMTfiiin when w<' Khali have an (ippDrtunity 
 of reaching the l.uid. \V«' atv at th.' niircy of the eurnnt, and 
 it dcpiiMi- .iitiri'ly on how and wlien- Me drift thi.s month. I 
 do rifti think tii<' tl'"- will bn'iik u|> til! cnn.>*id»Tubly lat<r in iIm- 
 M;ttMm. W<- rnii.-'t ha\. -ali-s It'ntii tin' -ouiSi to dif^irite^'ruU- m>Ai 
 ft fliM- n» tloM TIh-o- 1- n.i ti'iiin'/ th<' sMU-un?* varv ho niuch : 
 but I think, <'v<';t i* w-' '';,ii not tnak • iIk- land, that th«' Hot* will 
 hufi" ..>"Hi||i>r iii'v<'rul w*. kn yt. and w niust drill UiwarU game 
 
 "Til. KwpiiftKinx h> 1 e«m** in. and f«»und no watpr. 
 
 T\if bfi-ii-u' lutkht Mil -tiu' uiiii «:u!« !tk<' a kijif' . tlMiU^ it ii «fi!y 
 Ml IhUiw '/ji.K T]it' i= » m ^i@k«i «mt c^KSi^ in many 
 
264 Aiicrnc expekiences. 
 
 by the pressure of the bergs ; but it is so cold that they freeze up 
 again almost instantly. The men scarcely show their heads out 
 of their hut. I think they have at last become convinced that 
 they can not carry out their project. 
 
 " We feel the want of seal-meat very much, and fully realize, 
 by its absence, what a benetit we derived from it. In comparison 
 with our present sensations, we were actually comfortable while 
 even a small portion of our last supply remained. Now the cold 
 takes fierce hold of our shrunken frames. 
 
 " We have only three bag" of bread left — about four hundred 
 pounds in all; a little over live cans of pemmican, weighing for- 
 ty-five pounds apiece; and this to feed eighteen souls for I know 
 not how long. It is now^ the 2d of February only. We must 
 count on six or eigiit weeks of very cold weather yet, and per- 
 haps with but very few seals to help spin out our little store. 
 
 "/('Z/. 3. The gale continued, with drifting snow, until yester- 
 day. The snow is very fine and penetrating, and so thick that 
 you can .scarcely tell whether it is really snowing, or whether it 
 IS simply being drifted about by the wind. The wind, too, has 
 been variable; for whichever wav I looked the snow came in 
 my face. To-day the wind is light, from the west, and cloudy, 
 but not snowing. We were all snowed under the other night, 
 and had .some little difliculty in digging our way out to air and 
 daylight. This morning the weather is more moderate. The 
 glass shows 15° below zero. 
 
 "Dark clouds hang low in tlie horizon, preventing one from 
 seeing tin; land, if there is any to be seen. The temperature ris- 
 ing .so much, after the strong north-west gale which we have had, 
 give me .some hope that the wind has mastered the current, and 
 forced u.s toward tlie (ireenland coast, it is always warmer on 
 the ea.st than it is on the west side of Davis Strait; but lus yet 
 the weather is to<i thick. 
 
 " The K.>v|uimaux are on the hunt once more, and we who stay 
 at home ( ! ) an* praying for their success. Tlie inr-n. knowitjg now 
 that they have los^t the long anticipati-d Disco. aj»}K'ar more rea- 
 •onuble. IJ« (on- we pa.xwd l)i.sco, M< y«TS and a part of the crew 
 thought th< y i-oult) manage this ixisinesr', and .ho wi>«he<l to eon- 
 WA- They have annoyed me very much: and ih«*ir asHuranec 
 of -Joon glutting t»» a lawl of ph?nty huM been the eau.«K.'. I fear, of 
 many mtdn ujion the |»rovi»ioni«, and uf more Jjcing eonnunMiJ 
 
LIVING ON LOW RATIONS. 
 
 265 
 
 than even they would have risked had they not been deceived 
 as to the course of our drift. It seems they were persuaded 
 that they would reach Disco in February, and so I suppose they 
 thought it hard to be put on such low rations. They could not 
 see the necessity of trying to make our little stock last until 
 April, or even March ; but now they begin to comprehend that 
 they did not know as much about these seas as they tliought 
 they did. 
 
 kLHUUUMiJJCIt liV llieUKiUM. 
 
266 AUCTIC EXl'Elilii^Clib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Drearj', yet beautiful. — The Formation of Icebergs. — Where and how they grow. — 
 Variety of Form and History. — "The Land of Desohition." — Strengtli failing. — 
 Travel and Rations. — Unhealtiiy InHuenie of mistaken Views. — Managing a Kyack 
 on young Ice. — Secures the Seal. — "Clubbing their Loneliness." — Poor little Pu- 
 ney's Amusement. — Any Thing good to eat that don't poison. — Narwhals, or Sea- 
 uniconis. — A royal Seat. — Hans criticised. — Cleaning House. — "Pounding-day." 
 — Our Carpet. — Lunching by the Vard on Seids Entrails. — "Oh! give me my 
 Harpoon." — No Clothing fit to hunt in. — Inventory of Wardrobe. — Narwhals use- 
 ful in carrying oft" Ball and Ammunition. — Pleasant Sensations in Ketrosi)ect. — 
 The Skin of the Nose. — Castles in the Air. — Violent Gale and Snow-storm. — Dig- 
 ging out. — Three Feet square for Exercise. — Uante's Ice-hell. 
 
 " This afternoon it has cleared off. The weather is beautiful : 
 the thermometer says only 13° below zero. I look anxiously for 
 the land, but all is ice and icebergs. The ice and the sky is our 
 only ' view.' Dreary, and yet beautiful ; when the sun shines 
 on the bergs, and lights up their massive or fantastic forms, some- 
 times through the crystal pendants or projecting peaks, we see 
 all the prismatic colors as in a rainbow. The forms, too, vary 
 to a surprising extent. Every berg appears to have had an in- 
 dividual history, and presents, in its contour, the effects of battles 
 with wind and water, rain and storm, and rough jostling with 
 its fellows which it has experienced from its birth. I say its 
 birth ; for icebergs do not grow in the water, as many imagine, 
 but originate at the foot or outlet of the glaciers which every- 
 where on the north-western coast of Greenland project them- 
 selves into the sea. 
 
 "The process seems to be something like this: nearly all the 
 interior of Greenland, or at least a very extensive tract of coun- 
 try, appears to con.«ist of an immense mer de glace, or sea of ice; 
 and this throws off a large number of rivers of ice, or glaciers, 
 and the.se slowly, very slowly, make their way to the coast, often 
 reaching the; shore over high rocks. Hut no matter what is in 
 ^their way. they ptjsh on, and even into the sea; the foot of the 
 glacier, which may ofton be measured by miles (you may sail 
 
ANTICS OF THE ICEBERGS. 267 
 
 along the face of the Great Iluinboklt Glacier for as many as six- 
 ty), projects under the water as well as above it ; and when it 
 gets beyond a certain height and depth the tides force themselves 
 under it, and this, combined with its own weight hanging over 
 the precipice, finally forces it off from the parent glacier, and at 
 its disruption it may be said 'an iceberg is born.' 
 
 "The berg then sails off, and, like the human race, each one 
 fulfills its own destiny. Some are grounded, perhaps, not man}' 
 miles from their birthplace; others travel on, and get shored up 
 on a floe like this, and keep it company, as ours have done, for 
 hundreds of leagues; others pursue their solitary and majestic 
 course toward the open sea, and gently melt away their lives in 
 the deep swell of the Atlantic; some, like desperadoes of the 
 highway, make straight for some noble ship, and send her found- 
 ering to the bottom, with all her precious freight of human 
 souls. And as they are different in their history, so are they 
 varied in appearance ; some being wall-like, solid ramparts, with 
 square, almost perpendicular, faces, impossible to scale, two or 
 three miles long, and half as many broad ; others might, at a lit- 
 tle distance, be mistaken for a splendid palace, a Turkish mosque, 
 or a Gothic church, 
 
 "' Whose spire 
 Chimes out to the breezes a song, 
 And glows in the sunset like fire.' 
 
 Occasionally a berg gets worn away at the water-line, while the 
 base below the water is intact, and supports an extended surface 
 on a comparatively narrow stem ; others are tunneled or arched : 
 in fact, there is no limitation as to form or size. The most beau- 
 tiful and the most grotesque may sail side by side ; one may be 
 a mile square, and the other only forty or fifty feet. Whether 
 large or small, but a small proportion of either is seen ; the great 
 mass is always below the water. The proportion varies accord- 
 ing to the amount ol salt in the water ; but a berg never shows 
 more than an eighth or a seventh of its size. But for the terror 
 and the beauty combined, if any one is interested in the birth, 
 life, and death of icebergs, let them read Dr. Hayes's book, called 
 'The Land of Desolation ' — meaning Greenland. 
 
 "As I stand, this beautiful morninj', and look up on the white 
 waste of desolation around me, with here and there a splendid 
 spectacle of illuminated ice spears, 1 think of Tennyson's words: 
 
208 ARCTIC EXPEUIKNCES. 
 
 '•' Break, break, break 
 
 (Jn tliese cold iee blocks, O scii I 
 And 1 w( uld that my tongue could utter 
 The thoughts tiiut arise in ine." 
 
 But language is too feeble. I give it up. 
 
 '• It is getting cold again; our one short, pleasant day has gone; 
 and the night comes on drear and cheei'less ; the mercury has 
 fallen to 26*^ below zero. Joe and Ilans have returned, too, 
 empty-handed. They did see cracks in the ice, but they were 
 closed over, and on the young ice they could see plenty of seal- 
 holes, but the ice was too thin to bear them. However, this gives 
 promise of seals as soon as the young ice thickens a little. 
 
 ^^Feh. -i. We are again confined to our huts by a strong gale 
 from the north, the snow drifting so much that it penetrates our 
 clothing from liead to foot ; so, as we all wish to keep as dry as 
 possible, there is very little going out-of-doors. This gale is 
 sending us fast to the southward, but we do not seem to approach 
 either shore, which makes the prospect of eventually saving all 
 this party very doubtful. If I succeed iji that with God's help. 
 I shall have something to be thankful for all my days. 
 
 ' My great fear constantly is that all our bread and pemmican 
 will be consumed before the season is sufficiently advanced to 
 get seals enough to keep the life in all these men, women, and 
 children. We are, I fear, but surely starving, though slowly. 
 The men have but little strength left. They th.emselves know 
 not how weak they are, as they are doing nothing. I try my 
 own strenjTth, when the weather is not too bad, bv walkinjif a lit- 
 tie, and it is pocr encouragement for attempting a fatiguing jour- 
 ney over the ice. I do not dare to commence traveling with such 
 an enfeebled company this month, when we may expect as cold 
 weather as any we have had. It would be an unjustifiable risk 
 to expose these people, who have been housed in some sort of 
 fashion all winter, to the piercing gales of an unprotected ice- 
 pack, while in their present half-starved condition. One storm 
 would probably be death to the whole party. If we phould start, 
 it would be absolutely nece.ssary to increase the ..l mis; they 
 could not move forward and drag the boat on their present al- 
 lowance, and then, with larger rations, how soon all wc I' be 
 2:one ! It is the east coast on which every mind is set. ' .ave 
 not the means of taking observations, and so gettiiig our correct 
 
MISTAKEN VIEWS. 269 
 
 position ; but I am quite certain we are very much nearer to the 
 west coast than we are to the east; Uiat \^: certainly a long way 
 off. It would taice a long time to reach it even by strong men 
 well fed and clothed, and unencumbered bv women and children. 
 
 "We could have been rescued, this whole storm-beaten, weary 
 party, with one hour's steaming or run under sail. Exhausted 
 it mu'st have been known we were, without shelter or fire; some 
 of us poorly clad, and without food; for in the darkness no one 
 could tell whether we had saved any provisions or not, or even 
 that we had a boat; unless they coulu see the boats from the Po- 
 laris; and if they could see them and lis, then could also be seen 
 the pack-ice, and all would know that it was too thick for a small 
 boat to get through.'"^ 
 
 "If God in his nv^'cy saves this party — for man can do but 
 little here — if a just God will grant us life, and send us seals to 
 sustain us, I care not toward what part of the coast we drift; I 
 know it all about here — north, east, and west. If we can only 
 get to land anywhere, the rest is easy. On the w^est coast I could 
 find ships, and on the east the Danish and Esquimaux settle- 
 ments. But the coast of Labrador is a barren, cheerless land. 
 
 ^'■Evening. The gale still raging without, and snowing, but the 
 thermometer has been as high as —10°. 
 
 "Mr, Meyers promulgates the statement that the straits in lat. 
 66° N. are only eight}^ miles wide! He would find it a long 
 eighty miles' walk over the ice. This man is very troublesome, 
 the more so that I have no chart to show them to the contrary. 
 His interference destroys all discipline. They think they are 
 going to escape easily, and this, of course, makes them less care- 
 ful and prudent than men ought to be in our precarious position. 
 We are so short of provisions now that I wish to impress each 
 one of the danger of using more than just enough to sustain life 
 until the season is further advanced, and there is a reasonable 
 probability of getting seals. 
 
 '■'■Feb. bth comes in with a strong southerly breeze : the natives 
 off hoping to find food. I shall now have the keel of the boat 
 repaired and made ready for traveling as soon as possible. We 
 have been so long without seals that the Esquimaux are very 
 much afraid of starving to death — it upsets them very much. It 
 
 • See T.etter of Mr. R. W. D. Biyan's, in the Appendix, 
 
270 
 
 ARCTIC EXPEUIENCES. 
 
 is not surprising; and sometimes I believe they fear worse: they 
 are afraid of some of the men. 
 
 ''It is not very cold this morning — only 17° below zero. 
 
 '■'Evenirnj. A streak of luck to-day, or, rather, I should say a 
 Providential gift. Joe has brought home a seal. lie shot two 
 others, but lost them in the young ice. Hans got the seal after 
 it was shot. It does seem as thousfh when we cfet to the last 
 gasp a seal just comes in the way to prevent a fatal catastrophe. 
 This seal is a very little fellow; but we shall make a better meal 
 on him than we have had for many days. There will not be 
 hide or hair of him left, or any thing inside or out but bone and 
 the gall; tliat even we throw away. All else is consumed. 
 
 HANS (iOlNG iOK .V SK.Vl. ON YOL'Ni; lOE. 
 
 "It has been pleasant to-day, and during the gale last night 
 there was plenty of water around us ; but as soon as the wind died 
 away the new ice made instantly, so thai the capture of a seal 
 was scarcely expected. Thermometer —24° to-day. 
 
 ^'■Feb. 6. Yesterday I helped carry the kyack over to Hans, to 
 help him get our little seal. There was no water, only young- 
 ice, and I was curious to see how he would manage. The seal 
 had, unfortunately for himself, just stuck his head through the 
 young ice apparently to gaze at the sun, and its glare, instead of 
 aiding his perception, appears to have dazed him, or charmed him, 
 so that he was less on the alert for enemies than he should have 
 been. We wanted him too badly to respect his sentimental ad- 
 miration of the great luminary, and Joe took advantage of his 
 
A SXUW-DUliT. 271 
 
 rapt attention to put a ball through his head. The body of the 
 seal lay some sixty yards distant from the old ice on which we 
 stood. Hans g<jt in the kyaek. I pushed him on the young ice; 
 he then, by sticking his paddle in the ice and by movements of 
 the body, propelled the kyack toward the seal. The ice would 
 not have borne him had he attempted to walk over it ; the weight, 
 being extended over a larger surface in the kyack, it bore him. 
 And then, too, had the ice broken, he was safe with the kyaek 
 under him. He finally reached the seal, and, making one end of 
 a line fast to its head and the other to the kyack, he turned the 
 latter with the same peculiar movements with which he had pro- 
 pelled it, and got back with the seal safe to the thick ice. When 
 Hans landed with the welcome prize he was perspiring freely, 
 for it was hard work. The natives usually drag the seals behind 
 them over the ice; and each one soon goes the way of i.il flesh, 
 only reserving the blubber for oil. 
 
 "This morning, as usual, the natives renewed their hunt; but 
 it had been blowing stroiig all through the night, and though it 
 cleared a little in the morning, it soon came up a thick snow-di'ift, 
 and in half an hour was too thick to see through. When I was 
 out yesterday, I noticed particularly the state of the ice of which 
 our floe and surroundings arc composed, it is very rough now. 
 piled and crushed up in every imaginable shape. How long it 
 will hold together is problematical, but I think some time yet. 
 Joe and Hans returned at 3 p.m. No success to-day. Wind now 
 from the north-east; thick and snowing. 
 
 "7 P.M. This evening the wind has suddenly hauled to the 
 south; still thick and snowing. Thermometer only —5° this 
 afternoon. I can see but a few yards before rac. The ice is in 
 our pan over the Are — that is, our little lamp. It is being melt- 
 ed to make our pemmican tea. Joe and Hannah at their usual 
 game of checkers. When I see people who don't know what 
 else to do resorting to checkers, it always reminds me of what 
 Dickens wrote of a forlorn old couple who tried to consider that 
 it was a social way of spending the evening. He said it was 
 more like 'clubbing their loneliness' thr.n indulging in sociality. 
 It is certainly so here. 
 
 "Little Puney, for want of occupation or amusement, keeps 
 dijrsing with a knife into the snow-wall of our hut. She has 
 had her share of seal -meat, and is not quite so hungry to-day; 
 
272 AKCTIC EXrElilENCES. 
 
 while I, having used all the paper I can aUbrd to date — for I 
 have to econoinize my only blank paper as earefully as our bread 
 — sit and bite my whiskers of some montiis' gi'owth, all of us re- 
 gardless of the storm raging outside, though it is quite certain 
 that some southerly storm, if it linds us later in the season on this 
 floe, will break us up and set us adrift, God knows where. 
 
 ''Feb. 7. The southerly gale did not last long; it abated at mid- 
 night, and this morning we have a light breeze from the west. 
 Fine weather, but I see the effects of the gale. Some of our win- 
 ter friends, the bei'gs, have changed their positions, and the ice 
 has opened in many places, though the young ice has formed over 
 the cracks. 
 
 '' I want, if possible, to get seal enough in the next forty days 
 so as to extend our bread and pemmican out until April. We 
 can do this with the allowance now dealt out, if we lie still, and 
 do not attempt to travel ; we can make it last, perhaps, until the 
 20th of March. If we get on our feet, it will disappear like chaff 
 before tie wind. 
 
 " Our last seal we ate partly raw and partly cooked ; latterly 
 we have cooked the skin and drank the greasy water. Joe says, 
 ' Any thing is good that don't poison you.' ' Yes,' I respond, 
 'any thing that will sustain life' — and down it goes; and re- 
 pulsive though it be, it is astonishing how this warm greasy 
 water, with a little seal's blood in it, stimulates the flagging en- 
 ergies. We save the blood by letting it freeze in hollows made 
 in the ice. The days are not very long yet. Day-break at 8 
 A.M., but dark at 4 p.m. It is quite cold again ; thermometer 26^. 
 and inclined down. 
 
 "3 P.M. Esquimaux returned, and we are all rejoicing over an- 
 other feast of seal-meat. Ilans shot one about noon. They also 
 shot two narwhals — Joe one, and Hans one — but could not get 
 them ; they both sank. There are now many openijigs in the ice, 
 and numbers of narwhals going north. 
 
 "Those narwhals are sometimes called sea-unicorns, or mono- 
 do7is. on account of the long horn — six to eight feet long — which 
 projects from the upper jaw. In realit}'-, however, this append- 
 age is not a horn, but an elongated tooth, including the ru ^iment 
 of a second tooth. This formidable weapon is quite straight, 
 tapering from base to point, and has a spiral twist from left to 
 right; the animal (for it is not a fish) is fifteen or sixteen feet 
 
THE NARWHAL. 
 
 273 
 
 loncj. On the back, instead of a dorsal lin, there is a lov; fattv 
 ridire, extending' i'ur between two or three feet. The usual color 
 of the skin is dark gray, with darker spots or patches on the sides; 
 some are lighter colored than others. The young of the narwhal 
 has a bluish-gray tinge. The narwhal usually go in schools of 
 ten or twelve, sometimes more ; they are migratory, and when 
 they come playing round the whale-ships are regarded as fore- 
 runners of tlie right whale. Thev feed on mollusks and other soft 
 animals. When attacked, they sometimes fight fiercely. They 
 are harpooned for their oil and ivory, and also, by the Greenland- 
 ers, for their flesh. The flesh is highly relished by them. The 
 oil is excellent ; the ivory is both hard and white, and takes a 
 good })olish. The Danes and natives work it up into many arti- 
 cles of domestic use. 
 
 
 N-\"^ 
 
 N.VUWllAl,. 
 
 "When these seas were first visited by Europeans, they car- 
 ried home all. sorts of fabulous stories about these 'sea-unicorns,' 
 as they always called them ; and the Danes relate that the throne 
 seat of the king of Denmark was made out of narwhal ivory. 
 There is nothing so improbable in that. If polished and carved, 
 it would make a very handsome, and certainly a very uncom- 
 
 mon, chair. 
 
 " We have had some little trouble over our seal this evening. 
 Hans, if he gets a seal — which is very seldom, for he has shot 
 but very few, wishes to appropriate it all to bis own and family's 
 
 18 
 
274 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 use, without considering that lie and his family get their daily al- 
 lowance of bread and pemniican with all the rest, lie must not 
 be allovvec to have more than an equal share. lie is a very 
 thoughtless Esquimau, or selfish ; he is not a successful hunter, 
 like Joe, nor has he his tense. lie does not know how to build 
 a hut for liimself, or, at any rate, he did not do it. Joe built it 
 lor him. He could not take care of himself in a country so sparse 
 of game as it is about here. 
 
 "I do not wonder at Sontag's (Dr. Hayes's astronomer) freez- 
 ing to death, or at any thing else happening to him, or to any 
 white man left in the hands of such a miserable creature as Hans 
 has proved. He threatened this evening ' not to hunt any more.' 
 Let him try it. He will go very hungry in that case, for I shall 
 not allow him any thing out of our stores should he persist. He 
 was hired (and will be paid, if we ever get home) for the very 
 purpose of hunting for the expedition. It is no favor on his 
 part. 
 
 ^''Feh.8. The westerly breeze did not last long this morning: 
 we have it now to the southward; very light breeze, however. 
 Morning clear, and fine weather. The ice is still open in many 
 places, the young ice forming fast. Seeing the narwhals so 
 I)lenty looks very favorable. There must be considerable open 
 water not many miles distant, and that open water should 1 ;ad 
 to land. The horizon, nearly every day, is dark and heavy to 
 the east ; as the sun gets more power we shall see better. Noth- 
 ing can as yet be done. Hans has come to his senses: he has 
 irone with Joe. Thermometer this morirno:, at 8 a.m.. —87°, but 
 inclined up. 
 
 "I think I have not heretofore recorded the fact that since we 
 have had sufficient daylight we have our 'cleaning-house' day; 
 or, rather, more accurately, cleaning -hut day. As may well be 
 imagined, the moisture which arises from cooking, as well as the 
 exhalations of our own lunafs, condenses and clings to the inside 
 lining of our hut. It gets so th'ck at times that it falls on our 
 Vjedding, making it very uncomfortable. So we have our 'pound- 
 ing-day,' when we attack the canvas tapestry of our apartment, 
 and beat off the clinging icicles, and all that has frozen to the sur- 
 face which we can get off. As we beat it from the walls, of 
 course it falls on the carpet. The 'carpet' is a bit of old canvas 
 which is spread over our floor of ice. This 'carpet' is a sight to 
 
LUNCH OF SEAL-SKIN. 275 
 
 behold, incrusted with the accumulated drippings of grease, blood, 
 saliva, ice, and dirt of four weary monihs — all of which can not 
 be removed by our limited means of cleaning, namely, taking it 
 out of the hut, and shaking and beating it. Any civilized being 
 would be astonished, on looking in upon us, that human beings 
 could have lived so long in such a wretched hole. We shake 
 our carpet every day, now that the weather permits. 
 
 "4p.m. The natives have returned; saw but few seals, and 
 could not get those ; but they saw plenty of narwhals, and shot 
 five, but did not kill them — thev all got awav. Some of the men 
 are discouraged now, because they think that the narwhals drive 
 away the seals; but they do not. A strong wind from the south- 
 v/ard, and very cold. Thermometer —20^ 
 
 ^'■Fth. 9. During the nioht the wind hauled from south to 
 north ; this morning blowing heavy, with a dense snow. It 
 drifts so that we are compelled to keep in our burrows. Our 
 huts are already nearly buried in the drift, and we shall have 
 some digging to do to get out. Should the gale continue much 
 longer, it will send us past Ilolsteinborg. We are making a rap- 
 id drift. Heaven only knows where ve shall get to before the 
 weather will permit us to start for the land. It would be follj 
 to start now. We can get nowhere until the water makes : then 
 we must rely on our rifles for a living. That resource failing, 
 we knoiu our fate f 
 
 "2 P.M. The wind has changed to the north-west, but still 
 blowing heavy; but it is warmer — mercury just beginning to 
 fall again, however. I have just indulged in a lunch of seal- 
 skin: two small pieces, with a little cup of the greasy water it, 
 was boiled in, Joe, Hannah, and little Puney lunching with me 
 on the same delicacies. To-morrow we anticipate the pleasure 
 of varying the bill of fare with a yard or so of entrails and a 
 piece of ligiits which is in reserve. 
 
 "5.30. Wind moderating; snow stopped drifting. Joe discov- 
 ered a hole of water close to our floe. He and Hans instantly 
 started with their rifles. On .'^..-riving at the water, found nar- 
 whals very plenty. Each shot a narwhal, but they both sank. 
 
 " Wher we started on this ice-craft we had with us one of the 
 ship's whaling harpoons, but, like every thing else, it has been 
 destroyed — one of the men cutting it up for a spear. Had I 
 that harpoon with the boat-warp now, it would be comparatively 
 
276 AUCTIC KXl'KUIKNCKS. 
 
 easy to get u narwhal, one or more — as they lie in temptinir 
 proximity alongside of the ice. One of them woulil sn)>j)ly us 
 with meat, and blubber too, for a long time. By throwing the 
 barj)oon in one with the line attached, the men holding tlie line, 
 we could then get across the rough ice, and kill them with u 
 spear: but though they may be killed by a shot, they almost 
 uniformly sink, and are thus lost. 
 
 "/l/v. 10. The gale has been verv severe during the night from 
 the north-west, with another heavy snow-drift; it is still strong, 
 though moderating;. Joe and llans are waiting lor the snow to 
 cease, when they will be off t') the holes of water, if they have 
 not closed over, while I have to stay at home, because 1 have not 
 clothing fit to face such weather in. In fact, I have scarcely any 
 clothing with me fit for the climate; and that which 1 have on 
 my back has not been off tor four months. All 1 have is draw- 
 ers and an old seal-skin pair of breeches, three years old, and very 
 much worn, full of holes; an under and over shirt; a light cot- 
 ton jumper; and a Russian cap, and all of this as greasy and 
 dirty as it is possible to imagine, after the length of time I have 
 lived in this suit, the sort of work I have done in it, including 
 cutting and handling dead seals and greasy blubber. As foi' 
 washing face or hands, there has been no means of doing either; 
 and I have been deprived of that luxury for the whole period 
 we have been on the ice, not having even a pocket-handker- 
 chief to use for a towel. I comb my hair with the only comb in 
 the encampment — Ilannah's coarse comb — and call it my morn- 
 ing wash. 
 
 "1 P.M. We hear the loud call of Joe fci' 'kyack! kyack !' I 
 rush out, and, mustermg up seven of our party — the others are 
 'sick,' but not too sick to eat — we take the kyack and start to- 
 ward Joe. I also took with me Joe's lonsj knife and lonsr seal- 
 line, not knowing but he had shot a narwhal where he hoped to 
 secure it. On getting to him, however, found it to be two seals; 
 they were soon hauled out on to the firm ice, and dragged to 
 the huts, where there is at this writing some 'going in' on seal- 
 mea^<. This time they can all have a good meal. Joe and Hans 
 have gone back after some narv/hals, seen by them near by where 
 Joe shot the seals. The weather is quite pleasant this afternoon ; 
 onl}'' 12° below zero. 
 
 "5 P.M. The natives returned, having had no further success. 
 
WANT OF CLEAN UNDKR-CLDTIIING. 277 
 
 Joe shot one narwhal; l)iit, like the others, it got off, carrying 
 the ball, or sank. I'o-day I iiave I'ared well, luiving had some 
 cooked seal -skill and cooked entrails with the soup, and this 
 evening some raw meat and my pemmicaii tea. I hope there 
 will be no worse fare than that while on the ice. The most I 
 concern myself now about what 1 eat is, to get something, and 
 suilieient of it, to keen from getting any weaker; I should like to 
 feel that 1 was ffaiiiing strencrth. I don't know what draft will 
 be made upon our endurance yet, or what I may need my 
 strength for. 
 
 "/'(/>. 11. Have heard the narwhals all night 'blowing' in the 
 holes and cracks. As the weather will, I trust, soon permit me 
 to keep out, at least a few hours at a time. I must, if possible, get 
 hold of a rifle, and then I can help do something to support this 
 party. But through February this old dirty clothing will do lit- 
 tle to protect me from the strong piercing winds. I am trying 
 to recall the pleasant sensation of putting on clean clothing, and 
 how, while whaling, when I got my feet wet and cold, what a 
 comfort it was to get on a clean pair of stockings or socks — how 
 much warmer they felt than the damp, soiled ones ; vet, perhaps 
 I had only \.'orn the discarded ones a few hours, and now I am 
 sitting with ibur months' dirt clinging to me, and no way of rid- 
 ding myself of it. Oh, for a good wash and some clean under- 
 clothing! I would care nothing for my old torn breeches and 
 my filthy cotton jumper if I could get something clean beneath. 
 Well, perhaps the waters of Davis Strait will yet wash r/ic- clean ; 
 so I won't grumble too much. 
 
 "The thermometer is at 16° below zero; but I do not feel 
 cold at all, having had a good meal of raw seal-meat, a drink of 
 the blood, and some blubber. Nearly all the men have what is 
 called 'the skin of the nose' — skinning, it should be; and Ilans's 
 liice is much swollen and sore from being frost-bitten. 
 
 " I hear nothing lately from the men of Disco and Copenhagen. 
 They have come to a realization of their situation — some of them, 
 at least. Through the long dark winter it was all they could 
 think or talk of They were 'sure of getting to Disco in Febru- 
 ary.' There there w\as abundance to eat and drink; they 'could 
 take what they pleased — clothing, liquors, eatables' — and from 
 Disco to Copenhagen, where 'liquor was cheap,' cigars were 
 'cheap,' ever\^ thing was 'chenp,' in fact — or rather in their im- 
 
278 AKCTIC KXPKRIENrES. 
 
 aginations. Eacli was to buv a sroUl watch, and then thcv were 
 to go home by steamer, passengers — the 'Government paying 
 their passage' of course — and each a hero in his own estimation. 
 It was a pretty dream, these castles in the air, but somehow the 
 elements did not favor its eonsuinniation ; and here they are yet, 
 •clothed and in their right minds," comparatively .sjjcaking. But 
 I know not when or how the delusion may appear again. 
 
 "The wind has increased to a gale, and is accompanied with 
 the usual si;OW-drift. 
 
 "2 J'.M. Joe and Ilans returned without success to-day; they 
 sav,' many holes in the young ice, where the narwhals had been 
 during the night. But they could not stay out long on account 
 of the weather. 
 
 "/1V>. 12. The gale or hurricane, as it might be called, has been 
 very violent during the night, moderating some, but still a strong 
 gale this morning. We are completely buried in the snow-drift. 
 It will require long digging with our little wooden shovel to get 
 out into daylight. Joe attempted to go out this morning, but 
 failed. Our general passage-way is in a most filthy condition. 
 Joe came back into the hut very indignant, saying, 'They talk 
 about Esquimaux being dirty and slinking, but sailors are worse 
 than Esquimaux.' His indignation was not without reason. 
 
 " It is evening once more, after a long and dreary day, blow- 
 ing and drifting so one could not get out to exercise; and the 
 only space in our little hut in which one can turn round is just 
 about three feet square ! Time hangs heavy — hungr}^, cold, and 
 dirty; and the last is the worst. I, at least, feel it wretchedly. 
 
 "If a man ever suffered on earth the torments of wretched 
 souls condemned to the ' ice-hell' of the great Italian poet, Dante, 
 I think I have felt it here. Not a countryman of my ow^n on 
 the ice — all foreigners. Not one to talk to or counsel with; a 
 load of responsibility, with an utterly undisciplined set of men; 
 impossible to get an order obeyed or to have an}^ thing preserved 
 which it is possible for them to destr jy. They take and do what 
 they please. 
 
 i* 
 
CAl'TAIN HALLS UiFLE. 279 
 
 CnAPTER XXTIT. 
 
 I'atdiing up Cloth'-s. — ra])t:iiii Hall'- Uitic. — Cutting Fresh-water Ice for Drink. — 
 Salt-nali'r Ice to si'asoii Smi]i. — I-Dur iiioiitlis' Dirt. — Sun Revelations. — "You are 
 notliiiij; liut Hone." — 'J'liat chronic Snow-drift.— Seal-tiijiiicr for Linicli. — Watch- 
 ing a Seal-hole. — Eatin;^ his '•, Jacket." — Dovekies. — The Solace of a Smoke. — 
 Native Mode of cleansing Cooking Utensils. — The West (oast in Sight. —Joe's 
 Valuation of Seals. — rri^sjiects dark and gloomy. — liill fal's Overboard. — Death 
 to the Front. — I'-vidences of Weakness. — The Natives alarmed. — Washington's 
 Hirtlul.iy. — A novel Sledge. — The "right Way of i lie Hair." — Discu.ssions about 
 reaching Shore. 
 
 " I WAS preparing myself for hunting, patcliing up my old thin 
 elothcs as well as I could, llans bad a very nice rifle, which he 
 did not use, preferring his old Danish rille. Joe has one of the 
 same make. One of these rifles belonged to Captain Hall, the 
 other to Dr. Bessel. On the death of Captain Hall nearly all of 
 his things went to destruction. His rifle is the one Hans had. 
 [ charged him to keep it safe until such time as I could use it. 
 On inquiring for it now, I fnid one of the men has it, and it is 
 broken. It could be used notwithstanding, but he refuses to give 
 it up. They took possession of every thing from the first, and 
 are very insolent and do as they please ; and as I am entirely 
 alone, I seen no way to enforce obedience without shedding blood; 
 and should I do that and live, it is easy to see my life would be 
 sworn away should we ever gc* home. These wretched men will 
 bring ruin on themselves and the whole party yet, I fear. 
 
 '■'■Fth. 18. Clear and cold in the morning; before 3 p.m. it was 
 blowing a gale once more from the north-west, accompanied b}- 
 the usual snow-drift. Perhaps Providence is showering this snow 
 ii]-)on us with mighty winds, to prevent these foolish men going 
 off to court their ov;n destruction. Fortunately, this morning, 
 while it was calm, I laid in a store of both fresh and salt wa- 
 ter ice which can be got from different parts of the floe. The 
 fresh has to be cut from the ponds which formed during the 
 summer bv the rain and ice meltinj? from the hisjh hills and hum- 
 mocks and running into these depressions. The salt ice we melt 
 to season our 'soup,' or 'tea,' and the fresh to drink as water. 
 
2bO ARCTIC expekip:nces. 
 
 "Joe and Ilans arc still out. I wish they would return, for 
 the drift is so thick I fear they will lose their way. 
 
 " February thus far has been a wTctched month — rrale upon 
 gale; and, in consequence, we mus't,be southing fast. It was 22° 
 this morning, but inclined up. 
 
 "4 P.M. Joe and Hans returned safe; had found no water, but 
 had seen many narwhals in the young ice; but had no opportu- 
 nity to shoot, as they could not get near enough, the ice being 
 loo weak to bear them. 
 
 "Ff^i. 14. The snow-drift and gale not quite so bad as yester- 
 day. The natives, being well clad, do not mind the weather, and, 
 as we are entirely out of seal-meat, they have started out, despite 
 the drift. We have part of a skin left, which will serve for lunch. 
 Oh, the fdth, the utter filth one is compelled to eat in order to 
 appease the fierce hunger, and to secure a b'ttle life and warmth 
 to the body! To-morrow night it will he foirr months smce we 
 were set adrift on this ice. It is a long time to be starving and 
 suffer as we do, and 3'et there is no prospect of escaping for a 
 long time to come. There is only one month's provisions left 
 at our present rate of consumption ; but we could very easily eat 
 it all in eight da3-s, and not have too much — not have enough. 
 
 "Joe took his narwdial line and spear to-day. If the wind was 
 not so strong, I would have gone with him; but through my 
 clothing, or any kind of civilized clothing, this wind would cut 
 like a knife throu<ih tender meat. 
 
 '• 12 M. The sun is shining through our little ice-"window, made 
 from fresh -water ice. It is about twenty by twenty -six inches 
 in length and breadth. It is the first day that the sun has reiched 
 and penetrated our little hut; but there is no blessing without its 
 drawback ; though the sun is so welcome, it reveals too plainly 
 our filthy condition, I thought I knew the worst before, but the 
 searching sun has made new revelations. 
 
 "The men are actuall}^ infected with the spring-fever, and are 
 cleaning house. 1 should think a good cart-load of black, smoky 
 ice was taken from their hut to-day. This morning, too, Puney 
 seemed to be enlio-htened by the sun. She sat lookinsf at me for 
 .some time, and then gravely remarked, ^You are nothing hut honeP 
 And, indeed, I am not much else. 
 
 "4 P.M. That same chronic snow-drift has re-appeared wnth a 
 strong breeze. I varied my lunch to-day, by compulsion, with 
 
SKAL-FLIlTEll FOR LUNCir. 281 
 
 a few dirty scrnps of nTiise blubber from the oil-lnmp. At six 
 o'clock I vras cheered by the sight of Joe and Hans bringing 
 along one seal. Joe had shot two narwhals, but, as usual, both 
 sunk. They seem principally serviceable in carrying off our am- 
 munition. I had some frozen seal to-night, and, the weather 
 moderating, I feel more like a normal human being. Foxes, too, 
 have re-a})peared ; three were seen to-day. We have not seen 
 any before for a long time. 
 
 "/IZ*. 15. Snow and blow, blow and snow, that is the order 
 again to-day. I was so fully determined to go with the natives 
 on their hunts by the middle of February, that I started despite 
 the drift this mornins:; but the wind, shortlv after increasing, 
 went throuuh mv clothing as if it had been jzossamer, and struck 
 to the very marrow, if there is any in my bones, which I doubt. 
 My apparel is too poor and thin, and full of holes. I must try 
 and patch up again this evening; for I was soon compelled to 
 I'eturn this morning. While I was out I saw no opportunity 
 of shooting either seals or narwhal. The young ice had formed 
 through the night, but too weak for walking on ; but I saw plen- 
 ty of the narwhals, and one or two seals. After I returned Joe 
 and Hans went on, but they got nothing; shot at narwhals with 
 the usual result — a loss to our powder and shot. Joe got adrift, 
 too, on the young ice, and was very near spending a night out, 
 but toward evening succeeded in reiraining our floe. The wind 
 subsided in the cvenino-. 
 
 ^'Fth. 1(). Same sort of weather. Very little water to be seen. 
 Yesterday I ate neither bread nor pemmican. I dare not eat it 
 now every day, if there is a morsel of any thing else to substi- 
 tute. For breakfast this morning I had a little pemmienn tea, 
 with a strip of frozen entrails and a few mouthfuls of blubber. 
 We have a seal-flipper in reserve for lunch. 
 
 " I can not resist sometimes giving poor little Puney a part of 
 my scanty rations. 
 
 "I have been cleaning house again this morning, shaking car- 
 pet, and bringing ice to cook with: the most of such work I do 
 m.vself. It is here the same as on board the Polaris — one man 
 is as good as another, and a little better! I got through my 
 house-work about 10 a.m. The wind was quite moderate, so I 
 started with my rifle (I had at last obtained the loan of one), to 
 see if I could get a seal. Saw signs of water to the north-west 
 
282 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 about two miles distant. On getting there, found it a very fine 
 place for shooting, providing there had been anv thing to shoot. 
 Staid two hours, and saw two or three narwhals, but at too long 
 a distance off", and then the wind came on again and drove nie 
 home. 
 
 '■ On arriving at our hut, found Hannah had lunch ready — a 
 piece of seal-flipper, and, what refreshed ine very much, a pot of 
 seal-blood soup. It was quite a heavy lunch. 
 
 "The natives came in at dark; they had not had any better 
 luck than I ; had seen the narwhals and a few seals, but had not 
 <jjot anv thincf. 
 
 ^'' Ft'b. 17. Joe and Hans and m^'self got oft' at sunrise this 
 rnornin2;; very little water to be found. Thermometer at 20° 
 below zero, but, not being so windy, I stood it better. 
 
 " While I was watching a narwhal-hole this morning, one came 
 along; but there was no chance to shoot with any prospect of 
 killing him, so I saved my ammunitioii. Hans was more fortu- 
 nate. A seal came to his water- hole, and lie firing, the seal 
 quickly lay dead, floating upon the cold water. We soon had 
 him out, and now he is skinned and dressed up. He is quite a 
 small fellow, as all the seals we get are. But he will make a 
 meal, eating him 'jacket' and all. Joe missed two seals to-day. 
 I had his favorite rifle, he taking another; and to this I attribute 
 his failure. There were only four seals seen to-day. At the 
 best, in this weather it is haid v^ork to stand hour after hour, 
 scarcely moving, watching an uninteresting orifice in the ice: 
 and with the temperature from 20^ to 30° below zero it is scarce- 
 ly endurable, clad as I am. I have passed twelve winters in the 
 Arctic regions, and I have been considered 'tough,'* but if we 
 were not in danger of starving, I would rot stay outside, in my 
 present habiliments, when there is a strong wind, a moment. 
 
 " Joe shot a dovekie, and one of the men shot tv/o of them. 
 These little speckled birds only weigli about four ounces; thej' 
 have a very plaintive cry, and, as they paddle about in the icy 
 water, do certainly look more 'forlorn,' as Dr. Hayes says, than 
 the strong and voracious gulls or the comfortable eider-ducks; 
 but we are not in a position to indulge the pathos of sentiment, 
 like Dr. Hayes, who, if I remember rightly, was so impressed by 
 
 * See Captain White's letter in Appendix. 
 
THE SOLACE OF A SMOKE. 283 
 
 this friendless appearance tluit he dcchned to make a 'specimen' 
 of one, though lie-sirinf? it srrtatlv. In fact, I beheve we are be- 
 ginning to look upon all living things, without a thought of 
 science, only as so much life-sustaining matter. 
 
 ^^Feb. IS. The monotonous western gale and snow-drift. There 
 will be no success in hunting, I fear, to-day, unless the gale abates. 
 
 "2 P.M. Gale still blowing, but Joe has been off since 11 a.m., 
 hoping to find more dov'ckies, or a seal, but it is very unpromis- 
 ing weather for either. Hannah, Puney, and I have just had 
 our lunch of seal-skin, and there is a piece over the lamp for Joe 
 when he returns. 
 
 " Sitting in the hut (though less dangerous to health and life, 
 than exposure to the sharp winds in a cotton jumper), knocking 
 my feet together to get a little heat into them, is far more weari- 
 some than hard work outside. If I had clothinc: like Joe, I think 
 [ could stand it about as well as he. Could I have foreseen the 
 soit of voyage I was to make, I would have looked out and had 
 at least two things, a warm suit of clothes, and a rifle I could 
 call ' my own.' 
 
 *' I have about three pipes more of tobacco. "When that is 
 gone, I shall feel more lonesome still. It is the only companion 1 
 have; and I think the most fastidious ladv or the most inveterate 
 'anti-tobacconist' would hardlj^ object to smoking on an ice-floe. 
 At any rate, I am not afraid of discoloring our curtains: it would 
 be hard to tell what color our canvas hangings are bv this time. 
 
 "At 4 P.M. Joe returned ; saw nothing but one narwhal, thousrh 
 he found considerable water on the north-east side of our floe. 
 
 "6 p.m. Have just had some pemmican tea. In the act of 
 drinking it, my lips came in contact with something which I 
 knew did not belong to it, as the pemmican dissolves when warm- 
 ed. It was not bread, for it felt long and slender ; I examined 
 it, and ibund it to be an innocent piece of seal's entrails, which 
 had doubtless remained in the uncleansed pan. Put it in m}^ 
 mouth again, from whence it descended of course to mv stomach. 
 Nothing is icasted hy me! Hannah had cooked some seal-meat 
 for breakfast, the entrails with the meat, and had neglected the 
 usual cleaning. Do not imagine that our pan is ever washed. 
 It is cleansed as well as ma^^ be with the Jiugers, and I doubt 
 not sometimes with the tongue, for that is the true Esquimaux 
 fashion. But I can not allow myself to dwell on this subject. 
 
284 AliCTIC KXl'KHIKXCKS. 
 
 '■'■Fch. 19. Clear and cold at «> a.m. The icest comt in sijlt! I 
 think it to be in the vicinity of Caj)e Seward, and distant thirty- 
 eight or forty miles. If the ice were in condition to-day, I would 
 try to reach the t^hore. In this latitude I could find Esquimaux, 
 and we could live ns they do until June; then we could .jret to 
 Pond Bay, and find Engli.sh whalemen. But these aK' castles in 
 tlic air; the state of the ice forbids the attempt. We must bide 
 our time. 
 
 "It has been a fine, pleasant day. Joe, Hans, and myself off 
 at sunrise to hunt for seals. They were very scarce ; saw only 
 one to-day, and Joe shot him, and he is no-" divided into eight- 
 een portions. It is a small seal, but we shall try to make a meal 
 of him for all hands; each person having with his share one- 
 tenth of a pound of bread. This seal the men took possession of, 
 in one of their freaks, skinned, and divided it as they pleased. 
 Joe was very angry, which was no wonder; he and Hans do all 
 the traveling and labor, and drag the seals home, and -t is natu- 
 ral that they should be provoked to have it seized upon in this 
 way. The men are seldom out of their huts, or off their beds 
 before eleven or twelve o'clock. Joe, Hannah, and myself break- 
 fast about day-break, and have but one meal in the day besides 
 that. Joe and Hans are exposed many hours every day to the 
 wind and cold, and it comes very hard that these idle men should 
 take the seals from them. Joe always expected me to divide the 
 rations, and he is willing for the men to have their share of what- 
 ever he brings in; but he don't like this way of theirs. AVhcn 
 they take it into their heads to do the cutting up, they never say 
 to him or to me, 'Can I do it?' or 'Shall I do it'?' but just lay 
 violen ; hands on it. Joe says, 'I think they ought to be made 
 to pay a hundred dollars apiece for each .^^eal they have taken 
 from me, for their bad conduct.' If seals were to be had for the 
 buying, / would gladly give a hundred dollars apiece for them; 
 but money, if we had it, would briy notliing in the ice-pack. 
 Thermometer to-day at 6 a.m. —25°; later, —14°. 
 
 'yFeb.^O. Cloudy; light south-east wind; —4" to —11^ It is 
 cpiite warm, and evidently plenty of water, Joe, Ilans, and my- 
 self off early to the openings, looking for seals. Saw no nar- 
 whals to-day : and neither Joe nor I saw any seals. Hans says 
 he saw three. Shot eleven dovekies. It is dreadftil to thiidc 
 that trr.rne is so scarce ; winter not over vet, and onlv two bans of 
 
I'UOSl'KCTS DAIIK AM) GLOO.MV. 2So 
 
 bre;ul and tlireo cans of {)emniican Jef't, and no hope of an early 
 escape. It may prove to be Juiic or July before we are relieved 
 from this isolated and dangerous position, it depends on the 
 weather, which varies very much in dill'erent seasons. 
 
 "It is snowinijf auain this evenincr. I feel more than iisuallv 
 weak, and, as a natural consequence, somewhat desponding. The 
 boat is undergoing repairs, and will soon be ready, shoidd a ta- 
 vorable change occur; but I do not look for anv chaniie for a 
 lonu: time to come, uidess it is the change of absolute starvation, 
 which will soon be on us unless game of some sort appears more 
 abundantly. 
 
 "/17>. 21. The thermometer to-day, for the Srst time since we 
 have been on the ice, stands above zero. I read, to my astonish- 
 ment, -f- 3° at 6 A.M. At that hour the natives and myself started 
 on our usual tram[>, in hopes of getting some fresh Ibod : but we 
 had no succes.s. I saw one seal and two narwhals in the course 
 of the day, but neither of them where they could be reached. 
 We know that food is undei' and around us, but day after day 
 passes and the j)rey escapes us. On leturning, lunched, or dined, 
 whatever our second meal may be called, on a dovekie and piece 
 of blubber. At 4 r.M. Joe and Ilans returned as light-handetl as 
 they went. The prospect looks dark ar.d gloomy — eighteen to 
 feed, and nothing, as it were, to feed upon. The little allowance 
 of pemmican anil bread will not keep the breath of life in us 
 much Ion lie r, and we have not even a bit of skin or entrails to 
 eat. AVe have, and are willing still, to eat such stulf; but we 
 can not get even that. 
 
 "/I/'. 22. Thermometer reads +20°; cloudy, with light south- 
 east wind — very comfortable weather. We were off, as usual, 
 this morning as soon as it was light. I have watched at one seal- 
 hole since morning, but have seen no living thing. One of the 
 men, Bill, was out to-day, and shot two dovekies, and varied his 
 adventures bv ft\lling overboard. lie has been out of the hut so 
 little, he is not sure of his feet. lie could not sw-im, but some- 
 how manafred to ffet on to the floe again. 
 
 "Our situation is getting desperate — plenty of ammunition, 
 but no game. Every thing is now ready to push for the shore, 
 but how to get there I know not ; there seems no feasible way 
 either by boat or foot. The ice is in such a fearfully rough con- 
 dition, that it could not be traversed with even a light back-load ; 
 
286 AKCriC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 and here we liave not only our own safety to consider, but women 
 and children to be cured for. If it was only us men, we niii^ht 
 risk more ; but I can not advise a course wiilch would make the 
 death of these poor creatures almost inevitable. 
 
 '• The men are fri2:htened ; thev seem to see Death staring them 
 in the face and savintr, 'In a little while vou are mine.' Joe is 
 frii-hteiied too. lie I'eels that if be and his familv were alone on 
 the shore, without this company of men to feed, he could catch 
 game enough for his own u^e, until it was more abundant; but 
 to catch a living for eighteen discourages him, and indeed it seems 
 impossible, without some great change occurs. 
 
 "If we had drifted toward the east, as Meyers thought we were 
 doing, I should consider it far less I'isk to make the shore; be- 
 cause, if we once got there, we should be almost certain to get as- 
 sistance from the natives, and game is plenty ; but on this side 
 of the strait it is different. I know well wliat this barren and 
 wretched coast is in winter; but to satisfy all parties, I think 1 
 shall have lo make the attempt. It is a poor outlook ; we shall 
 probably fail, for want of strength, in dragging the boat; and if 
 we should even succeed in making the shore, we should be as 
 likely to starve there as here, for it is most emphatically an ice- 
 bound coast, drearv and devoid of life at this time of the vear. 
 If it was spring it would be different. 
 
 ''To show how little strength the men have, I will relate what 
 occurred this morning. Being about a quarter of a mile off from 
 the men's quarters, I had shot a seal ; and. as it was in the water 
 out of my reach, I ascended an elevated liummock with a pin- 
 nacled top, and shouted out to the men to bring the kyack. 
 Though weak in other ways, my lungs were sound, and my voice 
 had not, I thiidv, lost any of its power. A kyack is so light that 
 it can easily be picked up and held in the hand ; yet several of 
 the men had to take hold to help bring the kyack to me, and 
 were comjiletely tired out and exhausted by the effort. This 
 seemed in a measure to open their eyes as to their unfitness for 
 travel, and discouraged them about setting out. Once before I 
 had seen three or four of them trying to move the barge boat, 
 and, though it was then empty, they could not stir it from its 
 place. 
 
 "Joe and Ilans returned at 4 p.m. They had seen one seal 
 and four narwhals, but got nothing. They, like the men, are 
 
WASHINGTON'S HIHTIIDAY. 287 
 
 nnxious to start for the ];iiul ; so I shall eiuloavor to clo so as soon 
 as the wind abates, which is now (evening) increasing *Vora the 
 south-east. 
 
 "There is a double game working around me. I must be on 
 the watch. It is ])lain to ine that the Esquimaux are anxious to 
 get on shore to preserve their own lives from other dangers than 
 scarcity of game. I shall protect them to the utmost extent of 
 my ability. 
 
 "/tA 22, Ecriii/it/. To-day, all over the United States, I su])- 
 pose there iiave been military parades and rejoicitig, and balls 
 and other festivities in the evening being 'Washington's birth- 
 day' anniversary. We might have raised a flag, had I been in 
 .spirits to do so. But I forget ; there is no one here wlio knows 
 or cares anv thintf about Washington — foreirrners all. 
 
 ^^Fcb. 23. This morning there is a strong breeze fnmi the north- 
 west; thick weather and snowing. I have just been in the hut, 
 and had a talk with the men. Thev have not been inclined to 
 listen to me heretofore, but I hope they will now. 1 have told 
 them that, when the weather will {)erniit, we will start for the 
 shore, but it would be madness to do so now, drasofing boat, am- 
 munition, and slee{)ing-'gear. I told Ilerron that it might be pos- 
 sible to make a light sleigh out of some of the skins, and put our 
 provisions and clothing in that, which would be easier dragged 
 than the large boat, and that the kyack would answer the pur- 
 pose of ferrying us across the cracks. He knew that we could 
 not get the boat along ov'er the rough ice with the little strength 
 we have left. But neither he nor any of the others seem to con- 
 sider that the women and children could scarcely be cared for by 
 this arrangement, nor the great risk we should all be in by aban- 
 donins; the boat. That is our onlv anchor of salvation if the ice 
 should suddenly break up, wdiich it may do any time under a 
 strong southerly gale. Separated from our boat, if we did not 
 make the land safely, wo should be at the complete mercy of 
 every wave that rolled. 
 
 "Either a bear or seal skin will answer the purpose of a sledge 
 without any frame-work whatever, if the dogs can be tackled to 
 it; placing it, of course, the right ica>/ of the hair, it will run very 
 smoothly over ice or snow, better than any runners, as long as 
 the hair lasts. I have seen it done by the natives, and have 
 tried it mvself. 
 
288 AKCTIC EXriLltlENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXTV. 
 
 Decide to make tlie Attemjit. — Foiled l>y successive Snow -storms. — I)own lo one 
 scant Meal a Day. — Lund thirty-five Miles otl'. — (iod alone can help us. — ("anary- 
 hird Rations. — l?car-tracks. — A Hird Sujtjjer. — A .Mon>tcr ( )o^'jook. — Six or sev- 
 en innulreil rounds of tVesh Meat I Thirty Gallons of Oil! — Oojrjook Sausage. — 
 Oar Huts reseinhle Slauj^hter- houses. — Hands and Faces smeared with Wood. — 
 Content restored. — Taking; Oi)servations. — Out of the AVeed. — A Present from 
 Joe. — Heat of Fs<|uinuiux Huts. — Des|)ondin^ 'rhouj.;lits. — "So I sit and dream 
 of I'lans for Kelease." — Territic Noises portend the Ineakinj; up of the Floe.— An 
 tnibrf)ken Sea <jf Ice. — Hans Astray again. — That "Oofrjook Liver." — The Stew- 
 ard convinced. — An Ice-fpiake in the Nij;ht. — Tlie Fhje l)ieaks twenty yards from 
 the Hut. — Floe shattered into hundreds of I'ieces. — Sixty Hours of Ice, Turmoil. 
 and utter Darkness. — The "'Floes'" become a '"Paek.'" — Storm abates. — Quietly 
 Drifting. — A Choice for Bradford. — Our Domain wearing away. — Twenty I'aees 
 only to the Water. — Whistling to charm an Oogjook.— A Kelapse into Barbarism. 
 
 ^'Eroiuig. It is at last decidtHl that when the ice permits we 
 start, taking the boat with us. ^Ye will try to reach a place call- 
 ed by the Esquimaux Shaumeer, a little to the nortli of Cape 
 Mercy, in lat. 65° N. There is game there, and sometimes Es- 
 quimaux. Should we start and fail to get on the land, we must, 
 of course, return to the floe, and continue to drift; and then we 
 shall probably have to take our shot and cut up all the spare 
 balls into slugs, shoot all the dovekies we can — and seal, if there 
 are any — living as best we may until we drift to lat. 62° or 
 68° N., which will bring us to March, when I hope to find the 
 bladder -nose seal on the ice. Mr. Meyers, on this occasion, 
 agreed with me that it was unsafe to leave the lloe at present. 
 If he had worked with me from the first, we should all have been 
 better off. If all fails — well, we perish ; and there is one man 
 up north that can go home rejoicing. 
 
 "The day has been stormy, and the wind is now north-east, 
 and still snowing. I have had the tent enlarged, and the ammu- 
 nition divided and put into several bags of ten or twelve pounds 
 each, so that, in case of an accident to a part, some may be saved. 
 It wnll be bread to us very soon. We are doing every thing 
 that we can to prepare for our contemplated journey. If I start, 
 I shall do my utmost to succeed ; but we ail need heavier ra- 
 
ONK SfAXT MKAL A DAY. 289 
 
 lions than we can afTortl to use. It has been warm to-dav — 
 + 2tl^; but it is growing coKler, and beginning to snow. 
 
 ''/e/y. 24, The deep (all of snow has rendered it impossible for 
 the most fool-liardy to think of starting to-day; so went off 
 hunting instead. About noon found one little hole, and Joe shot 
 the one seal that has been seen to-day. After a fall of snow it 
 is very diflieult to find the blow -holes of the seals, especially 
 without a dog. They will scent them when men can not find 
 them. .The breathing- holes are very small, and scarcely distin- 
 guishable in the snow, 
 
 "I have had a long talk with the men again this eveninir. I 
 have explained to them that I hope soon to get to the ground of 
 the bladder-nose seal, which in March come on to the ice, not far 
 from where we are now, to breed. This seal is sometimes called 
 the 'hooded," or 'bearded,' seal, I have told them — what the}' 
 know as well as I — how little bread and pemmican we have left; 
 and, that we may not find ourselves perfectly destitute, if we are 
 a little later than I expect reaching the new sealing-ground, that 
 we ought to live on still less than we have been doiiisr. Il seem- 
 ed hard to ask them to live on one sliort meal a day, but they 
 have consented to come down to that allowance. I think the snow 
 to-day was a great damper to them in regard to our projected 
 journey. God knows we have been living on little enough, but 
 we must try and have a morsel saved to last until April. 
 
 "The land is visible about thirty-five or forty miles off. But 
 it is simply impossible, in the condition of the snow and ice, to 
 get even as far as that, carrying sufficient with us to sustain the 
 company; and at least three or four of the children must be car» 
 ried also, as they are too young to walk. The women, I sup- 
 pose, could walk almost as well as ihe men, if they were not en- 
 cumbered with these young children. And without carrying 
 some night-gear to shelter us, we should freeze. If it was April, 
 I would go for the land, carrying nothing but guns and ammu- 
 nition. 
 
 ^^Fd). 27. Clear and cold. The mercury has gone down again 
 to 24° below zero. Such a set of skeletons as w^e would have 
 had a poor chance camping out such a night without the shelter 
 of our huts. We may be thankful for the snow which prevent- 
 ed our starting, God alone can help us. AYe seem placed where 
 we can neither move one way nor the other to help ourselves. 
 
 19 
 
290 ARCTIC KXI'KKIKNCKS. 
 
 Tht; wind is very strong, but i went with tlie natives to hunt at 
 daylight. Saw a few seals, narwhals, and tlovekies, but the 
 young iee would not allow us to get near enough to shoot. 
 
 "We are now on our allowance of one nifiil a day; and all 
 that is allowed for the whole eoinpany of eighteen — for we don't 
 eount the baby in the matter of eating — is five and a half pounds 
 of bread, and four pounds of pemniiean. Well, a man can be 
 trained to live on the rations of a canarv ; but 1 do not like the 
 training. 
 
 •'/■'A. 28. Cold, and strong breeze from the north-west; ther- 
 mometer reads 28" below zero, ajid I can see no water anywhere 
 this morning. Joe and Uans, however, thought they would go 
 and look as usual. 
 
 "Yesterday I forgot to mention that a large bear had passed 
 close to our liuts, knocking down a spear and gun. We can tell 
 the size and weight of a bear bv the tracks of his feet on snow: 
 they are so heavy they sink deep. Having no dogs to give the 
 alarm, he escaped u.s. A bear would have been a splendid addi- 
 tion to our present limited allowance. The hunters gladilened 
 our eyes with thirty-seven dovekies. Vv^'e take two apiece, and 
 having these, use no bread. We cooked them, eating every thing 
 but the feathers. The children had one dovekie apiece. 
 
 ''March 1. Clear, and very cold. Thus Maich begins with 
 winter weather. We had not been so gluttonous as to eat all 
 our share of dovekies at once, and so had part for our breakfast 
 this morning. We had cleaned the birds, and then replaced ev- 
 ery thing but the gall, and then w^e had the water in which they 
 were cooked to drink. Joe, Hans, I, and two of the men went 
 out with our rifles this morning. Altogether there were sixty- 
 six shot. This is a good deal better than nothinsr, for it saves 
 our bread, though the flesh is not heat -giving, like seal -meat. 
 We all returned at H p.m., glad that the dav had brought us 
 something to eat. This morning when we went oft" it was 34° 
 below zero; this evening it is 25° below. 
 
 "J/'orcA 2. We were off to the cracks again this A.M., bunting 
 for either seal or dovekies. The men say after they have had 
 their breakfast they will come too. I shall try hard to get a nar- 
 whal — one narwhal w^ould set us up in meat for a long time, com- 
 pared with all the dovekies that we can shoot. 
 
 "5 P.M. I did not get my narwhal, but Joe has shot a monster 
 
A MONSTKU OOGJOOK! 201 
 
 oogjook — a large kitul of seal — the largest, I have ever seen. It 
 took all haiuls to drag him to the huts. Peter fairly tlaiicetl and 
 sang for joy. No one who has not been in a siinilar j)osition to 
 ours can tell the feeling of relief which his capture produced. 
 How we rejoiced over the death of this oogjook it would be im- 
 possible to describe. It was, indeed, a great deliverance to those 
 wlio had been reduced to one meal of a few ounces a day. 
 
 "Hannah had buf two small pieces of blubber left, enough for 
 the lamp for two days; the men had but little, and Hans had 
 only enough for one d:iv. And now, just on the verge of abso- 
 lute destitution, comes -ilong this monstrous oogjook, the oidy 
 one of the seal species seen to-day ; and the fellow, 1 have no 
 doubt, weighs six or seven hundred pounds, and will furnish, 1 
 should think, thirty crallons of oil. Trulv we are rich indeed. 
 Praise the Loril for all his mer.ies! A few dovekies were also 
 shot, but the oogjook is the joy of our eyes ; and dovekies, so 
 prized only yesterday, are scarcely regarded to-day, 
 
 "March 3. We eat no bread or pemmican now — oogjook is the 
 only dish : and it does me good to see the men able once more to 
 satisfy their appetites. And they are bound to do so — they are 
 cooking and eating night and day. We have had oogjook sau- 
 sages for breakfast, the skins being stutfod with blubber, and with 
 this some of the meat boiled. Our 'civilized food,' as we call 
 our bread and pemmican, is being kept for a 'rainy day.' 
 
 "The men, after such long fasting, can not restrain their appe- 
 tites, and some of them have eaten until they are sick. But one 
 can not find fault with them, knowing that they have been living 
 on nine ounces of food a day. When first killed, the warm blood 
 of the seal is scooped up in tin cans, and is relished like new 
 milk. The mammary glands of the female seal, especially when 
 distended with the lacteal fluid, is a very delicate morsel. Our 
 glorious oogjook proved, on measurement, seven feet nine inches 
 in length from head to tail, excluding the latter; adding the hind 
 flipper, he measured fully nine feet. What a godsend! 
 
 "Our huts now look like slaughter-houses. Meat, blood, en- 
 trails — dirt all over every thing. Our hands and faces are smear- 
 ed with blood, and one coming among us now would take us for 
 carnivorous animals just let loose upon their prey. We have 
 plenty now for a few days, at least ; both oogjook and dovekies, 
 I hope, for a week to come. 
 
292 ARCTIC KXl'KKIENCES. 
 
 "And yet — and yet — now we have enough of this for a little 
 whilf, we discover that it is hard living — 'nothing but meat, 
 blubber, entrails and blocxl.' Like the Israelites witli their quail, 
 some murmur at the monotony of the diet. Well, it /s monoto- 
 nous, very : but it will give us strength. 1 thaidv (iod for it. A 
 few such will .save this party, at least from starving. The men 
 are all feeling more contented ; and they see now that, if they 
 had started when they wished to i'or the siiore, they would all 
 probably have perished. 
 
 "We are now approaching the Cumberland Gulf — my old 
 whaling-ground. Shouhl the weather pn)ve favorable, 1 shall 
 have no hesitancy about trying to get clear of the iloe; U)r there, 
 liiiding ships, we should end our misery. But should we be tirift- 
 ed past the gulf, why then we can try Ilud.son Strait, and, getting 
 on Kesolution Island, could safely wait there for Hudson Bay ves- 
 sels or American whalers, who now go there every year. But of 
 course we should be obliged to depend on our rifles until succor 
 arriv(Ml. 
 
 "The day has passed; cold, windy, and drifting snow. We 
 have dovekies for supper this evening. With two meals a day, 
 which we have had since the capture of the oogjook, it takes 
 sixty-six dovekies per diem for the party — not very full meals, 
 about eight ounces. A well-kept dog receives more, ana many 
 a one would reject food that I have had to eat this winter. 
 
 "J/'^/r/i -1. At sunrise mercury down to 30° below zero. 
 Started on the hur)t, but fmind no water, and returned at noon. 
 Joe and Ilans did not come up till -i p.m. ; had seen one seal. 
 One of the men shot four dovekies. It is quite clear to the west- 
 ward, but I can see no land. There is no more thought nor talk 
 of the east coast; that is seen to have been all a delusion, in- 
 spired by the desire to have it so. What some people wish they 
 soon believe. 
 
 " Meyers, I believe, has given up taking observations, his 
 countrymen having lost all confidence in him since finding how 
 his prophecies have failed. If they had been in this state of 
 mind four months ago, we should have had at least one month's 
 more provisions on hand than we have now. 
 
 ^'•March 5. Wind from north-west, and cold, accompanied by 
 the ever-attendant snow-drift. Unless the wind moderates, there 
 can be no hunting to-day. Ttie weather is indeed very bad, 
 
rOMKOKT OF TctUACCO. 293 
 
 blowing continually, and intensely cold at night — mercury going 
 from J{a° to 40° below zero, rising perhaps at noon to 25° or 20° 
 below. We must be drifting southward very fast. I think that 
 we are in lat. t)5° N. This wind continuing will soon carry us 
 to the coast of Labrador, 
 
 "A great many pei'sons in this world of ours cry out against 
 the use of tobacco in any form ; but should they ever have oc- 
 casion to live as we do, which God forbid, they would tind out 
 the comfort of it — how consoling it is to a cold and hungry man. 
 I have been out of the weed about twelve days, and 1 feel the 
 deprivation very much. Perhaps I may get used to it — in fact, 
 1 must ; but it is an additional hardship, not easy to get recon- 
 ciled to. Had I any thing pleasant to occupy my miml, or any 
 thing really to do — any active employment, which was of any pos- 
 sible use to any body — I inight more easily forget it ; but when 
 the weather forbids hunting, and one must sit still in a cold ice- 
 hut for twelve hours at a time, it is an immense solace to have 
 one's tobacco hold out. If any one don't believe this, let him try 
 it. Joe has just given me out of his limited store two pipefuls, 
 for which I am truly grateful. The men — the most of them — 
 have got tobacco yet, 
 
 "That happened in this way: after we found ourselves left on 
 the floe, 1 was looking in every direction for some possible chance 
 of escape and return to the ship, about which several of them 
 seemed very inditferent, at the right time to have availed our- 
 selves of the oj)en water; and while I was thus on the lookout 
 for release, they were looking out for the contents of the bags 
 which had been thrown on the ice. So, when all hope of escape 
 from the floe was lost, I looked round too, to see what there was, 
 and then found that all the good clothing and nearly all the to- 
 bacco had disappeared, and I was left with nothing. All ni}- 
 thinus were left on board the Polaris. 
 
 " We are now getting some meat ready for lunch. Joe is 
 separating the pieces with a hammer, they are frozen so hard; 
 though the pan in which it was placed has been setting within 
 one foot of our lamp-fire for the last thirty hours, which conveys 
 some idea of the coldness of the hut in which we are now spend- 
 insr our davs and nights. Our inside lining is white with frost, 
 I have just tried to eat a piece of this frozen meat, but it was too 
 hard, and I gave it up. I have seen written descriptions of the 
 
294 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 heat of an Esquimaux hut, but I have never felt it. It keeps off 
 the wind, but it is cold — cold. Ours is not crowded suiUciently, 
 I suppose, and we have only one lamp giving out a flame as large 
 as an ordinary gas-jet. 
 
 ^'■Ei-eiiiu'/. The gale has been very severe through the day, and 
 still continues to blow with great violence. Thermometer —32°, 
 and the snow-drift very heavy. We dined on part of the oog- 
 jook's head this evening; it was very tough, but with it and the 
 addition of a pot of blood we contented ourselves, 
 
 "Oh what a wretched life to live! Sometimes I feel almost 
 
 tempted to end my misery at once, but thoughts of the divine 
 
 restriction hold me back. liad our Maker left us free to choose 
 
 — had not 
 
 " 'The Everlasting fixed liis canon 
 
 'Gainst self-slaugiiter,' 
 
 I think there would soon be one wretched being less in this 
 world. God alone knows what we suffer ; no pen can describe 
 it — at least I can not, but I c^\\f<-el it. 
 
 ''■ Marclt 6, This gale has been the most severe of any that we 
 have had while on the ice, and it still continues. We are agian 
 completely buried in the snow-drift, and can not get out of the 
 outer passage-way until it abates; and then in time we can dig 
 out with our little shovel. 
 
 ** Had it not been for the providential supply of that oogjook, 
 we should now be in a still more deplorable condition, living on 
 a few ounces of bread and pemmican, without oil enough even to 
 warm it. But the meat we have left of it yet wmII last us for 
 eight or ten days to come, and there is blubber for a month ; and 
 by then I hope to be where tli^jre are more large seals — in lat. 
 62° N. 
 
 " In March and April these large bladder-nose, or hooded, seals 
 are usually found in great numbers on the ice; and if we drift 
 there in the right season for them, all danger of starvation will 
 be at an end ; but about that time other dangers will assail us. 
 We can not foresee what will occur when this floe breaks up : it 
 will be miraculous if the whole of this party can be saved when 
 that happens, and come it must. There is no hope of escape 
 while these w-hirling winds and snows continue, and when they 
 cease a southerly gale may break us up at any time, 
 
 " We are drifting southward very fast, and I am sincerely glad 
 
GODS WILL BE DONE. 295 
 
 of it, for if we can make the sliore at all, it would oe much better 
 that we do so on the coast of J.abrador. Could Wc even cfet 
 ashore where we are now, it would be summer, or quite late in 
 the spring, before we could hope to get to the whuling-ships — it 
 might even be July or August. But should we make a rapid 
 drift to the coast of Labradoi-, there would be some hope of find- 
 ing a 'fishing station' by May, and at any of these we could get 
 temporary relief; and from there we could reach St. Johns, and 
 thence easily get to my own hajip}'' land. 
 
 "So I sit and dream of modes of escape, and all the minutiae of 
 travel, and the management of the party — if they would consent 
 to be managed : thoughts such as these fill my mind. One day 
 one mode seems feasible or possible, tlien all the difficulties pre- 
 sent themselves before me, and the result looks disastrous. Then 
 I turn over in. my mind some other plan, and all the while I know 
 that, plan as wisely as I can. all may come t<^ naught; for we are 
 entirely at the mercy of the elements. A gale and a heavy sea 
 ma}^ totally prevent my carrying out any one of these schemes 
 for release. God's will be done. lie alone can lead us out of 
 this perilous condition, and 'set our feet upon a rock,' if be sees 
 fit. 
 
 " The day has passed, and a bitter cold day it has been. No 
 one has been out but Joe, who cut his way out, but was driven 
 back in a few minutes, with a frozen face. The gale still con- 
 tinues, though it has somewhat moderated. We are closely 
 housed, and the lamp burning continually; but all things in the 
 hut, except the human beings, are frozen as iiard as the ice we 
 are on. Many of the Esquimaux huts have two or three large 
 lamps, whicli combined give out^ considerable heat — very unlike 
 ours. 
 
 "i/arc/i 7. The weather is better this morninsf, but there is a 
 good strong breeze still, and some snow drifting yet. But the 
 sun is shining orightly, and I hope for better weather before 
 night. It is a relief to see the sun once more, and be able to put 
 one's head out-of-doors. For some days past, and all last night, 
 the ice has been cracking and snappirig under us, sounding like 
 distant thunder. This betokens the breaking up of the floe; but 
 it may freeze together again. It received a severe shaking last 
 night several times. I tiiink the noise and commotion is caused 
 partly by loose pieces of ice getting underneath our floe, and roll- 
 
296 AUCTIC EXl'KHIENCES. 
 
 ing along until they come to an opening, when they eonie giind- 
 ing up, and rise to the surface. These noises startled me from 
 my sleep; several times I thought our ice was breaking in frag- 
 ments. I begin to have some idea of how people in earthquake 
 countries must feel when the ground is trembliiio- and shakin<i 
 beneath their feet, especially in a dark night, when one can not 
 see a foot before him, and knows not which way lies danger and 
 which safety — if, indeed, there is safety anywhere. It is impos- 
 sible to describe, so that, without the actual experience, the sounds 
 of breaking ice floes and bergs can be realized. No two sounds 
 appear alike, excejit the repetition of the grinding and explosive, 
 which are a horrid sort of refrain. But somewhere I have read 
 words like these, which partially give an idea of their variety and 
 fearful uess: 
 
 " ' Hark I a dull crash, a howling, ravenous yell. 
 Opening full syniithonv of ghastly sound ; 
 Jarring, yet l)lunt, as if the dismal hell 
 
 Lent its strange anguish from the rent jtrofound. 
 Through all its scale the horrid discord ran : 
 Now mocked the beast — now took the groan of man.' 
 
 And even this does not begin to convey an idea of the over- 
 whelming power of these pushing and grinding masses. Their 
 force and human helplessness compared, makes one realize that 
 there are yet elements in nature which man's ingenuity can never 
 control. 
 
 "Joe and Hans went out to try and find water, and found one 
 little hole; but all they shot was two dovekies. Wind still 
 strong from the north-west; thermometer —24°. 
 
 '■• March d). Fair; light west wind. I have roamed some ten 
 miles over the floe to-day, back and forth, in search of water, 
 going in every direction, and necessarily retracing my steps many 
 times ; but I find only a solid, unbroken sea of ice — not one little 
 hole where a seal might pop his head up and receive the wel- 
 come of a bullet. Joe has also been looking, but found none. 
 Hans may have been more fortunate: he has not yet returned, 
 and it is 5 r.M. 
 
 "Our cheerful day is short-lived ; there is another storm brew- 
 ing; the sun looks pale and sick. It is now near 6 P. if., and 
 Hans has not returned. Joe fears he is lost, and is getting ready 
 to go out and look for him. This Hans is a plague. 
 
ANOTHER STOUM. 2U7 
 
 "Ilaiis just come in all right. lie says he has been a long 
 distance to the north-west, but could lind no water; he had shot 
 at one seal in a crack, but lost him ; had seen several others, but 
 got nothing. 
 
 "J/a/c/i 9. Cloudy; latter part of the day strong breeze from 
 the north-east, and snowing. Joe, Ilans. and myself went oft' 
 early looking for soinetiiing to eat. I discovered a fresh bear 
 track, and followed it for some distance, but did not .'■:ee him; and 
 not feeling well to-day, I returned home. Our exclusive meat 
 diet does not agree with me. In fact, it is surprising that any of 
 us keep as well as we do. Ilans's little boy is the only one who 
 has been really sick for any length of time, though Meyers has 
 not been well ; he is not down ^ick. Now and then one of the 
 men will comnlain, but they soon get better. 
 
 ••Joe and Ilans returned at 5 p.m., Joe bi'inging a small seal. 
 Water, I am glad to state, is making again. Thermometer in the 
 morning, —20^; at noon, 11°. 
 
 "J/'.^/r//, 10. AVe have another storm on us. These storms 
 seem endless. Snowing again, and drifting. There will be no 
 hunting to-day. Another long day of misery. We have passed 
 through many such, and I have survived ; but I can not reconcile 
 myself to this life, or this way of living. Captain Hall learned to 
 enjoy it, but I can not. What tilth and dirt I am compelled to 
 eat! But if this was necessary to accomplish any valuable pur- 
 pose, I could bear it as well as any one — except, perhaps. Captain 
 Hall. Since it has come light, I can see it more plaiidy, and it is 
 horrid! But I must endure, and say nothing. 
 
 "I have a little incident to note about the oogjook and the 
 men. 
 
 " When this great creature was shot, the men were, naturally 
 enough, all happy, thinking of the feast they were going to enjoy. 
 Now, in the common seal, as in most animals, the liver is consid- 
 ered a delicacy, and the men were always anxious for their share ; 
 but I knew the liver of the oogjook, like that of the bear, to be 
 poisonous, and told the men they must not eat it, and that the 
 liver of the full-grown animal, like the one we had, was espe- 
 cially dangerous. What they thought I don't know ; perhaps 
 they suspected it was a rare tidbit, which they were being de- 
 prived of — many sailors have that sort of chronic jealousy. But 
 perhaps it will be better to give the conversation about it, as 
 
298 AlUTK" EXl'KKIKNCES. 
 
 it occurred. It will ohow what sort of persons I have to ileal 
 with. 
 
 " ' Yon must not eat the liver, steward.' 
 
 '•'Why?' 
 
 " 'Because it is poisonous.' 
 
 '• ' Oh, d — n the odds ; we'll eat it, w^on't we, Fred ?' 
 
 " 'Well, you can do as you please. I give you liiir warning 
 that it will make you sick.' 
 
 "They took the liver, thinking, no doubt, that they had de- 
 prived our hut of a great luxury, and I heard nothing concern- 
 ing it for some time. It had been stormy, and it was no uncom- 
 mon thing for the men to keep within their hut. Not a word 
 about the liver until yesterday, when the steward came in to see 
 me. We have none of us washed while on the ice, and of course 
 we are all very dirty ; but 1 saw, through the dirt of five months' 
 accumulation, that the steward looked sick, and I saw some i)e- 
 culiar white spots on his face; so I asked, 
 
 " ' What is the matter, steward ?' 
 
 " 'Oh, captain, that oogjook liver played the d — 1 with me.' 
 
 '* ' Well, you know I told you not to eat it.' 
 
 "'That's so; and I'll bet I eat no more of it, or bear's liver 
 either, unless — yes, we might get a youmj bear, and then, perhaps, 
 the liver would be good ; but no, I'll be d — d if I trust it. No 
 more liver for me.' 
 
 "Finall}^ I found out that they had eaten that oogjook's liver 
 a week ago, and that the most of them have been sick ever since ; 
 but the only one to acknowledge that the liver was the cause of 
 the sickness was Ilerron. Yet the skin is all coming off their 
 faces, hands, and breasts. 
 
 "J/arc/; 11. Last night was one of great anxiety. The gale 
 raged fiercely through the day ; about 5 P.M. the ice began a 
 great uproar; our heavy floe commenced woiking, cracking, with 
 a constant succession of dismal noises, mingled with sharp reports 
 and resounding concussions, and these noises seemed to have their 
 centre immediately under our huts. These sounds commingling 
 with the raging storm, the crushing and grinding resulting from 
 the heavy pressure of the bergs, and heavy ice around us, gave 
 us good reason for alarm. Blowing a gale, with a thick swirl of 
 snow so that one could scarcely see their hand before them, and 
 knowing not but each succeeding moment would bring our snow 
 
AN ICK-QUAKE IN TIIK NIGHT. gQl 
 
 tcncrnonts tumbling about our oars, we liatl <r<)l cvorv tiling ready 
 to eatch ami run — but where to? That was the question. 
 
 "About nine o'clock, hearing a heavy explosive, and then 
 grinding sound, Joe and I felt our way down in the darkness 
 some twenty yards from the entrance to the hut, and there found 
 the floe had broken. The sides of the severed pieces swaying back 
 and forth, then rushing upon each other ami grinding their sides 
 with all the f(jree which the sea and the irale could uive them, 
 caused the alarming noises I had iieard. We crept back and 
 watched through the night, but nothing more serious occurred. 
 
 "The gale still blows this morning, and there is some sea un- 
 der the ice. Should the ice break up still farther, and should we 
 be obliged to abiindon our little snow -burrows, or be actually 
 turned out of them by farther disruption, it would be hard upon 
 the party, with such weather prevailing. But a kind and merci- 
 ful God has thus far guided and protected us, and will, 1 trust, 
 yet deliver us. 
 
 ^'■MarcJi 12. Another twenty-four hours of care, watching, anx- 
 iety, and great peril. The gale has been terrible. Yesterday 
 evening, our large floe-piece, on which we have lived all winter, 
 was suddenly shattered into hundreds of pieces, leaving us on a 
 piece about seventy-five by one hundred yards. We passed a 
 dreadful night, expecting every moment that our little piece 
 would follow tiic fate of the larger, and be broken into yet 
 smaller fragments. But, thank God, it still holds together. 
 
 •' When I selected the place for erecting the huts, I picked out 
 what seemed to be the thickest and most solid spot, which was 
 not far from the centre; and if it is thick enough, it may be able 
 to endure the shock of riding amonu" these loosened bersrs and 
 other frngments, without further disruption; but it is all uncer- 
 tain ; and 1 almost fear it can not hold together, after the heavv 
 thumping it has already received, and which it still must bear 
 with such a heavy sea as is now running. Most fortunately, our 
 boat remains uninjured. 
 
 '•The morning of the 12th came at last, and with it the wind 
 moderated. For sixty hours, amidst this fearful turmoil of the 
 elements, with our foundations breaking up beneath our feet, we 
 could not see ten yards around us. But at last the wind has 
 abated, the snow has ceased to fall, and the terrible drift stop- 
 ped. W'e can now look around and see the position we are in. 
 
302 AKCIIC l.XI'KHIKXCES. 
 
 Ill a vessel, after sueli a storm as this, tlie first work, with re- 
 turning liglit, would be to clear the decks and set about repair 
 iug damages. Hut \u)\v shall we rcj-air our shattered ice-cratt? 
 We can look around and take account of loss and damage, but 
 can do nothing toward making it more sea-worthy. 
 
 *' We see a great change in the condition of the ice ; the 'floes' 
 have become a ' })ack,' and great blocks of ice, of all sizes and 
 shapes, are piled and jammed together in every imaginable posi- 
 tion. On my last extended walk before this storm, the iloes had 
 appeared to extend for many miles ; they are now all broken 
 up like ours, and the pieces heaped over each other in most ad- 
 mired disorder. 
 
 " Willi the reii.rn of moderate weather we recommenced 
 shooting. Seals are scarce, but, there being open water around 
 us and between the cracks, we can now shoot all we see. To- 
 day Joe shot two, Ilans one, and I one. So we iiavc four seals 
 this evening. 
 
 '^MarvJi 13. It is again blowing strong from the north-east. 
 The weather is much warmer, and I hope the winter is broken. 
 \[r. Meyers took an observation yesterday, and makes the lati- 
 tude iSA° 32', which would place us directly east of Cumberland 
 Gulf. I have no sextant, and no means of accurately a.scertain- 
 ing our position. 
 
 "Our redaeed piece of ice is now quietly drifting along, and 
 we feel safer: we are surrounded by icebergs which have drift- 
 ed with us all winter. If Bradford was here now, he might have 
 his choice of bergs to paint. I know well I am not in a condi- 
 tion of mind or body to appreciate the scene surrounding us to- 
 day; but I realize, nevertheless, that an artist would, provided 
 he was on board of some safer craft than this self-navigated frag- 
 ment of floe. 
 
 " Notwithstanding the exciting and dangerous events which 
 we have just passed through, we are all well — which I consider 
 really astonishing. Even Ileus's little bo}'', Tobias, is around 
 again. 
 
 ''March 14. Yesterday and last night it was blowing heavy 
 from the north again ; this morning it suddenly ceased, and the 
 day has been fine, with a light south wind. Joe and myself were 
 out looking for seals before any one else was up. But our do- 
 main is wearing away at the edges. We can stand in our own 
 
HKLAl'SINd INTO HAKHARrsM. 303 
 
 hut iloor and slioot seals now, for our piece is so reduced that it 
 is oulv tvveiitv paces to the water! 
 
 "Soon at'tor suuriso 1 e.->i>ietl a large oogjook. Joe was at a 
 distance; and not having had so much practice as he, and fear- 
 ing I might not kill it witli my inffrior rith', I bockoiKHl to .J;)e 
 to come along with his ' Springtield.' In the mean time, to keep 
 the creature from slipping away, I commenced whistling. Seals 
 are really attentive to such sounds, whatever some writers say 
 to the contrary ; if they hear music, singing, or whistling, or 
 even a pleasantly-intoned voice, they will keep still and listen. 
 So I whistled away until Joe crept along to within shooting dis- 
 tance, and killed my oogj(X)k. He has also killed three seals to- 
 day, but one sank and was lost. 
 
 "The thermometer to-day has been uji above zero; in the 
 evening +()'''. Our latitude now is said to be H4° 19' N., which 
 would make thirteen miles' drift southward in the last forty-eight 
 hours. 
 
 ^'Mmrh 15. A strong breeze from the west, but clear and 
 pleasant. No seals to-day. I thiidv the strong wind unfavora- 
 ble for seal-hunting. No doubt they scent the hunters when the 
 wind sets toward tiiem ; and when it snows, with wind, and is 
 otherwise bad weather, they appear to keep out of sight — don't 
 like it, perhaps, any better than we do to be out in a snow-drift. 
 Thermometer at sunrise —2°; at noon rose to -f 10°. 
 
 "I am looking around our snow-hut this evening, and can not 
 describe how nasty and dirty it is. I know it is impossible to 
 be really clean living as we do, but one would hardly think that 
 any one could relapse into quite such horrid practices who had 
 ever lived among civilized people, as Hannah has done for years. 
 But among the Americans Hannah learned one thing that has 
 been of no benefit to her, and which has added many annoyances 
 to our inevitable discomfort the past winter. She observed 
 among the white folks that it was the custom for men to support 
 their wives, instead of using them as slaves, as her own people 
 do in their natural condition ; and, in order to be as much like a 
 white woman as possible, she has positively declined to do — has 
 certainly omitted to do — many things which would have made 
 this hut more tolerable. Perhaps, however, should a new-comer 
 see me, he might criticise my enforced habits, as I am now crit- 
 icising: hers. 
 
304 
 
 AKCTIC KXl'KHIKN'CKS. 
 
 yfarrh 16. No luck to-day. B.-forc sunrise Ilan.s shot one 
 soul, but lost Imn m the iee, whieh has been moving rapidly all 
 day. ^o otlier seal has been seen. Cloudy this inornin.^ with 
 strong north-west breeze. ° 
 
 ''A/hniooN. Clear; wind has shifted to the north -cast This 
 afternoon 1 srw several narwhals; put three balls into one but 
 1)0 carried th ^m all off. The harpoon is the only thing for a 
 narwhal, and that wc have not got. Had one, but it was made 
 over into a spear by one of the men. A spear supplements a 
 harpoon remarkably well, but it is no substitute for one. Ther- 
 mometer did not get above xero to-dav, —5°. 
 
 ^'Jlarch 17. Cloudy, and wind to the east; snowin<'. 
 
 AN EB(iLlMAU riLOT. 
 
fHASE AFTKH A HEAR. 305 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 A Rear proopcrfinK for a Meal. — TIr' Ice in an Tproar. — Seven Seals in one Day. — 
 Spiinj^ by Date. — The '■ UlaiUler-.n sc-" ajipear.— OtI" Hudson Strait. — A Hear 
 comes too close. — A lucky Shot in the Dark. — Description of Crsus morifitnus. — 
 Milk in the youn;;; Seal. — J""o(j1s of Fortune. — We t ike to the IJoat. — liif; Wash- 
 hoards. — A desperate Struggle to keep Afloat. — Alternate b» tween Uoat and Floe. 
 — Striving to gain the west Shore. — Dead-weights. — Ice splits. — Joe's Hut carried 
 off. — Hehnild it.- Ice sjilits again, and destroys Joe's new Hut. — Standing ready 
 for a .Jump. — Our Hreakfast goes down into the Sea.— No Hluhher for our Lamjis. 
 — The lee splits once more, separating Mr. Meyers from the Tarty. — We stand 
 helpless, looking at each other. — Meyers iniahle to manage the Hoat.— Joe and 
 Hans go to liis Relief. — All of us hut two follow. —Springing from Piece to Piece 
 of the Ice. — Aleyers rescued. — He is badly frozen. — Mishaps in the Water. — High 
 Sea running. — ^ Washed out of our Tent by the Sea. — Women and Children stowed 
 in the lioat. — Not a dry Place to stand on. — Ice recloses. — Sea subsides. — Land 
 Birds ai)i)ear. — No Seal.— Very Hungry. 
 
 "No seal - meat • to - day. This morning I discovered a bear, 
 about five o'clock; had quite an exciting chase after him, but he 
 got away. Both Joe and Ilans fired at him, but missed. The 
 bears have been within twenty paces of our hut through the 
 night. Their tracks arc everywhere around us, but we have not 
 yet succeeded in getting one. These bears are almost as much 
 water animals as the seals. I have seen 'hem swimming among 
 the loose ice a hundred miles from any land. 
 
 "At meridian our latitude was 63° 47' N.. showing a drift of 
 thirty-two miles in three days. 
 
 '■'March 18. No game to-day, and nothing seen but two or three 
 narwhals, which it appears impossible to get. The weather is 
 quite cold again, —15°. 
 
 "J/a/r/i 19. The ice is commencing another uproar, crushing 
 and grinding — berg against berg, and bergs against the pack-ice, 
 and the separate portions of the pack crowding and pushing as 
 if each separate block was determined to get to the front. Cold- 
 er than yesterday by one degree. 
 
 ^^ March 20. These ^[arch winds have been very cold. We 
 have another north-wester. Though the ice is continually open- 
 ing, it freezes over again in a few hours strong enough to bear. 
 
 20 
 
306 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 The ice opens more or less every day now, keeping us constant- 
 ly on the lookout fur the safety of our huts. Have seen a few 
 seals to-day. llans fired at several, and got one little fellow. 
 Joe also fired several times, but the wind seemed to carry the 
 bullet from its course. The wind is both strong and cold, and 
 unfavorable for shooting. 
 
 " February and March have been two dreadful months, blow- 
 ing and snowing almost continuously, but, with all the bad 
 weather, we have been mercifully provided with enough meat 
 during March. Had it not been for the oogjooks I know not 
 how we could have subsisted, for our bread and pemmican would 
 then have had to be eaten, and, on the smallest allowance, would 
 have been gone by the 1st of April. But now we eat nothing 
 but meat, and wc consume every part of these creatures, except 
 such as is dangerous to health and life. The diet is not agree- 
 able, but it is sti'engthening. 
 
 ''■Marvli 21. Clear and cold. Strong breeze from the north- 
 west, Joe and Hans have been sealing, and have had a fortunate 
 day. The hole where they found the seal was a mile off. They 
 traveled over the newly cemented ice, and succeeded in shooting, 
 Joe six, and Ilans one — seven seals! Our stock is increasing 
 fast; we have enough meat now to last through ^larch, and I do 
 not fear for April as to the matter of game, as we are approach- 
 ing still better hunting-ground. But what a gory appearance 
 our little hut presents — a perfect shamble ! The blankets of the 
 creatures are, of course, mainly saved for oil ; and when we eat 
 enough, it takes two of these small seals to supply the whole 
 compan}'. 
 
 '■'■March 22. An agreeable variety in the weather; it is both 
 clear and pleasant, with a light wind from the west. Joe, Hans, 
 and myself went off early to the sealing-holes. Considerable 
 young ice had formed through the night, and Joe shot two seals 
 — only one day's fare if there is no restriction put upon the men. 
 These Germans are tremendous eaters and outrageous grumblers. 
 They seem to be possessed with the idea that they can improve 
 every thing — as they did the useful harpoon into a useless spear, 
 and, in consequence, nearly every rifle we had upon the ice but 
 Joe's, which they could not get hold of, has been ruined by their 
 tinkering. They must work away at every thing, and never 
 stop till it is rendered useless. 
 
THE "BLADDER-NOSES.' 307 
 
 " The sun entered the first point of Aries yesterday, and is 
 now on bis upward course. Spring is here, according to the 
 astronomers, and the weather shows that it is at least approach- 
 ins:. The thermometer has marked 10^ to 15° above zero. Oh 
 how I wish that two months more wcm'c passed ! This is a dread- 
 ful life, and we have been a long time in it — over Hve months 
 now ; but we 'still live.' 
 
 "J/«/t/< 23. Our promised spring appears to have deserted us 
 again. It is blowing strong and cold from the north, and tb.e ice 
 appears to be frozen together again everywhere within seeing 
 distance. There has been no hunting to-day. 
 
 " J/«/-c/i 24. We started about 8 a.m. for a hole of water, which 
 Joe discerned in the d" 'xnce to the eastward. Saw a few seals; 
 Joe shot one. We also discovered bear-tracks in the vicinity 
 of our huts; we see them now frequently. It has been cloudy 
 to-day, with strong breeze from the north-west. Thermometer 
 varying slightly in the vicinity of zero. 
 
 " J/a/'c/i 2o. Olf huntinor; "ot two seals. Ice remains the same, 
 and no water within a mile. I went over to the water to-day, 
 but rheumatism compelled me to return at noon. By observa- 
 tion to-day our latitude is 61° 59' N. — the cold strong breeze 
 still blowina; from the north-west. We are down now where I 
 expected to tind the large hooded seal, or, as we call them, ' biad- 
 der-uoses.' The weather is so very cold, I think it prevents 
 them showing themselves on the ice. A very few of these large 
 seals, and there would be no more risk of starvini?. 
 
 ''■March 26. The bladder -noses are here! I thought they 
 could not be far off. Shot nine large ones to-day, and saved 
 four — five of them sank. Joe shot three, and Hans one. Thank 
 God, we have now meat enough for eighteen or twenty daj's. 
 Saw one whale to-day. 
 
 "J/rtrc/i 27. Our whole company feel cheered and encouraged, 
 knowing we have now got to the promised seal-grounds, where 
 plenty can be obtained; and our ammunition holds out well. One 
 of the men, Fred, got a bad, but not dangerous, cut in the thigh; 
 it was an accident, and I thiidv will soon heal up. 
 
 "We are now in the strong tides off the mouth of Hudson 
 Strait ; but we can see no land. The ice is on the move, but 
 without any present signs of disruption. 
 
 '■'■ March 2y. We have got a bear at last! Shortly after dark 
 
308 ARCTIC EXrERIENCES. 
 
 last evening, we heard a noise outside of our but. I had just 
 taken off my boots, preparing for rest. Joe, too, was about re- 
 tirincr, but on hearinir the noise thought it was the ice breaking 
 up, and that he would go out and see what the situation was. 
 lie was not gone more than ten seconds before he came back, 
 pale and frightened, exclaimir j, 'There is a bear close to my 
 kyack !' The kyack was within ten feet of the entrance to the hut 
 Joe's rifle, and also mine, were outside — mine lying close to the 
 kyack — Joe's was inside of it; but Joe had his pistol in the hut. 
 I'uttiiig on my boots, we crept cautiously out, and, getting to the 
 outer entrance, could hear the bear distinctly eating. There were 
 several seal-skins and a good deal of blubber lying around in ail 
 directions. Some of the skins we were drying for clothing, and 
 some were yet green. Getting outside, we could plainly see his 
 bearship. He had now hauled some of the skins and blubber 
 about thirty feet from the kyack, and was eating away, having 
 a good feast. Joe crept into the sailors' hut to alarm them. 
 While he was gone, I crept stealthily to my rifle, but in taking 
 it I knocked down a shot-gun standing; bv. The bear heard u, 
 but my rifle was already on him ; he growled, 1 pulled the trig- 
 ger, but the gun did not go; pulled the second and third time — it 
 did not go; but I did, for the bear now came for me. Getting in 
 the hut, I put another cartridge in, and put two reserves in my 
 vest-pocket, and crept out again, getting a position where I could 
 see the animal, although it was what might be called quite dark. 
 He saw me, too, and again fliced me ; but this time, to my joy 
 and his sorrow, the rifle-ball went straiiiht to its mark — the 
 lieart I aimed for. Joe now came out of the men's hut, and 
 cracked both a rifle and pistol at him. The bear ran about two 
 rods, and fell dead. On skinning him in the morning, I found 
 that the ball had entered the left- shoulder, passed through the 
 heart, and out at the other side — a lucky shot in the dark ! 
 
 " This bear will at least give us a change of diet, if it is still 
 meat. He is a fine large animal, and every part good but the 
 liver. The meat tastes more like pork than any thing we have 
 had to eat for a long time. 
 
 "It may be thought strange by those who have never lived in 
 this climate in an igloo, that we should leave our guns outside 
 of the hut,'instead of keeping them by us; but if brought in they 
 would soon be spoiled, because the exhalations from the lungs 
 
A GALE OF WIND. 309 
 
 condense in this atmosphere, and form moisture, wliich settles 
 on every thing, and would sjjoil fire-arms, unless carefully cased, 
 and we have no casings. 
 
 "This bear was ^vuat is called by the whalers the 'sea bear' 
 {Ursiis maritimus), and it is almost amphibious, as it swims quite 
 as well as it walks, only I suppose it could not live entirely in the 
 water; and it might live exclusively on land if it could get suf- 
 ficient food. It is a modification of the common Arctic bear, and 
 necessity makes it seek its food, which is princijially seals, either 
 upon the ice or in the water, as opportunity olfers. 
 
 ''March 80. Night before last the wind sprung up strong from 
 the north-west. Yesterday it increased to a gale. Iluge beigs — 
 and I do not in the least exaggerate when I say hundreds in 
 number — were plowing their way through the ice : there was quite 
 a heavy swell under the ice, and the broad bases of these bergs 
 are sunk many fathoms deep in the water. The floe-ice had re- 
 frozen mostly together again, after the break-up in the middle 
 of !March, and was now once more in fragments. The gale con- 
 tinued heavy through the night of the 29th, keeping us on the 
 lookout for the safety of our piece. It is still blowing heavy, 
 with considerable swell. In the night I felt a great thump, as if 
 a hammer a mile wide had hit us, and getting out to see what 
 was the cause, found we had drifted foul of a large berg, and the 
 collision had produced the sensation I have described. Well, 
 we thumped a while on the berg, and I did not know but we 
 should go to pieces and founder; but after finally we cleared it, 
 and sailed on, apparently without serious injury to our brittle 
 craft. 
 
 "This morning it is snowing again, with heavy drift. We 
 can see but a short distance before us. We arc somewhere off 
 the mouth of Hudson Strait, but how far from shore I have no 
 means of ascertaining. Our little ice-craft is plowing its way 
 through the sea without other guide than the Great Being above. 
 
 " 6 P.M. Still blowing strongly, but little snow drifting. This 
 afternoon saw two "bladder-noses"' floating on the ice; got the 
 boat launched, and went for them. The male escaped to the wa- 
 ter, but we 2"ot the female and her little vounoj one. Hans, later 
 in the day, shot another young one. When the young of the 
 seal can be secured without shooting, it is customary to press 
 them to death by putting the foot down heavily upon them, as 
 
310 ARCTIC EXPERlENXES, 
 
 by this means not only all tlic blood is saved, but the milk in 
 the stomach; and among the PJsquimaux this milk is highly rel- 
 ished. The men put sonic of the milk in their blood -soup. 
 These bladder -noses, when attacked, often show considerable 
 fight, if approached with spears or clubs. But they can do noth- 
 ini;: acrainst bullets but u^et out of the way. 
 
 ''Our piece of ice is gradually wearing tu-^ay; last night there 
 was a heavy sea, water all round us, and scarcely any ice to be 
 seen ; but it may close again. Latitude at noon reported 59° 
 41' N. 
 
 ^'' April 1. We have been the 'fools of fortune' now for five 
 months and a half. Our piece of ice is now entirely detached 
 from the main pack, which is to the west of us, and which would 
 be safer than this little bit we are on, and so we have determined 
 to take to the boat and try and regain it. To do this we must 
 abandon all our store of meat, and we have sufficient now to last 
 us for a month, and many other things. Among the most valu- 
 able, much of the ammunition will have to be left, on account of 
 its weight — all the powder being put up in metallic cartridges, 
 for preservation against damp and other accidents. 
 
 " We got launched, and made some twenty miles west, but were 
 very nearly swamped, for, notwithstanding all we had abandon- 
 ed, we were still excessively overloaded, what with nineteen per- 
 sons and the heavy sleep! ng-gear. When it is considered that 
 the boat was only intended for six or eight men, and that we bad 
 to carry twelve men, two women, and five children, with our tent, 
 and with absolutely necessary wrapping of skins for protection 
 from the weather, it is not surprising that v/e did not make much 
 headway. We were so crowded that I could scarcely move my 
 arms sufficientl}^ to handle the yoke-ropes without knocking over 
 some child — and these children frightened and crying about all 
 the time. Having got about twenty miles, we were compelled 
 to hold up on the first piece of good ice we could find. It was 
 with much difficulty that through these changes I preserved 
 Captain Hall's writing-desk from destruction; some of the men 
 were bound to have Joe throw it overboard, but I positively for- 
 bade it, as it was all we had belonfring to our late commander. 
 
 "On this ice we spread what few skins we had, set up our tent, 
 and ate our little ration of dry bread and pemmican. Ilans and 
 his family had the boat for sleeping-quarters. . 
 
ABANDONING THE SMALL FLOE. 311 
 
 "On the morning of the 2d we stavted again, still pushing to 
 the west; but tlie wind, with snow-squalls, was against us, being 
 from the quarter to which we were steering, and we made but 
 little progress; what we made was S.S.W. Hauled up on an- 
 other piece of ice, and encamped. 
 
 ^^ April 3. Spent part of the day repairing the boat, and fitting 
 her up with wash-boards of canvas, to keep the water from dash- 
 ing over the sides. Seals are so plenty around us now that I do 
 not hear any more croaking about the want of meat. We can 
 get all we want as long as our ammunition holds out. After rig- 
 ging our boat up, started again, heading to the west. 
 
 ^^Ajml 4. After a desperate struggle, we have at last regained 
 the 'pack," and are now encamped. The sun showed itself at 
 noon, but we are again blessed with a heavy wnnd from the north 
 and snow-squalls. Our tent is not as good a protection from the 
 wind as the snow-huts. Joe, with a little help, can l;uild a hut 
 in an hour, if the right kind of snow-blocks can be procured. If 
 we were on land we could find stones to help make them of. Mr. 
 Meyers has saved his instruments, and gives us the latitude of our 
 new home as 56° 47' N. 
 
 "We are now on a heavy piece of ice, and I hope out of im- 
 mediate danger: it looks conipact to the westward, but there is 
 no ice to be trusted at this time of the year. We have had a 
 hard battle to reach it, however, and we are all pretty w^ell tired 
 out. 
 
 " I did not make any conversation with either Meyers or the 
 men about abandoning the small floe; for the time had come 
 when it was absolutely necessary to do so. I told them in the 
 evening that if the wind abated through the night we must leave 
 in the morning. Some objected to go back into the pack-ice, but 
 wanted to take to the water in the boat. Had I consented to 
 that, most would probably have been lost in the first gale ; for 
 we should have had to throw overboard every thing, sleeping- 
 gear, even guns and ammunition ; and some of the men, by their 
 expressions, seemed to intimate that they would not have hesi- 
 tated to throw over the women and children to save their own 
 lives. Then, also, we should have had no water to drink, nor 
 any opportunity to catch game, and, getting once thoroughly wet, 
 our clothes would have frozen on us in the night, and we proba- 
 bly have frozen too, as it is still very cold. 
 
312 ARCTIC KXl'EItlENCES. 
 
 " When we finally got into the boat to try and reach the pack- 
 ice, some again insisted, instead of sailing west, on getting out to 
 seaward, by trying to work south in the boat, which was laden 
 very heavy, and was, of course, low in the water, with nineteen 
 souls aboard, ammunition, guns, skins, and several hundred 
 pounds of seal-meat ; and, consequently, the sea began to break 
 over us, and the men became frightened, and some of them ex- 
 claimed that ' the boat was sinking.' Of course, I wished to reach 
 the pack without losing any thing more than was absolutely nec- 
 essary, for we really had nothing to spare; but the boat took 
 water so badly that I saw we must sacrifice every thing, and so 
 the seal-meat was thrown over (the loss of which nearly caused 
 our ruin), with many other things we sadly needed ; but the boat 
 had to be liglitcned, and so I set the example of throwing away 
 some things I prized most highly, that the men might be induced 
 to rid themselves of ' dead-weights ;' and after all was done, the 
 boat was still overloaded fearfully; but, turning to the west, by 
 careful management we reached the pack as I have narrated, 
 through great peril and much loss, but with all our company 
 saved. 
 
 ^'' April 5. Blowing a gale from the north-east, and a fearful 
 sea running. Two pieces broke from our floe at five o'clock 
 this morning. We had to haul all our things farther back to- 
 ward the centre. Soon after another piece broke off, carrying 
 Joe's hut with it. Fortunately, the snapping and cracking of 
 the ice gave some warning, so that they had time to escape, and 
 also to throw out and save some few things. No telling where 
 it will split next. It has been a dreadful day — the more so that 
 we can do nothing to help ourselves. If there was any thing to 
 be done, it would relieve the mind of much anxious watching. 
 If the ice breaks up much more, we must break up with it. We 
 shall set a watch to-night. Joe has rebuilt his hut, or rather built 
 another. This sort of real estate is getting to be ' very uncertain 
 property.' 
 
 ^'' Aprils. Blowing a gale, very severe, from the north-west. 
 We are still on the same piece of ice, for the reason that we can 
 not get off — the sea is too rough. We are at the mercy of the 
 elements. Joe lost another hut to-day. The ice, with a great 
 roar, split across the floe, cutting Joe's hut right in two. 
 
 " We have such a small foothold left that we can not lie down 
 
NO BLUBBKll FOK OUR LAMl'S. 313 
 
 to-night. We have put our things in the boat, and are standing 
 by for a juni]). 
 
 ^'Ajiril 7. Wind still blowing a gale, with a tearful sea running. 
 At six o'clock this morning, while we were getting a rnorsel of 
 food, the ice split right under our tentl We wt re just able to 
 scramble out, but our breakfast went down into the sea. W^e very 
 nearly lost our boat — and that would be equivalent to losing 
 ourselves. 
 
 "Of course, while this storm and commotion has been raging 
 around us we could not shoot any seals, and so are obliged to 
 starve again for a time, hoping and praying that it may not be 
 for long. The worst of our present dearth of seals is that we have 
 no blubber to feed the lamp, so that we can not even melt a piece 
 of ice for water. AVe have, therefore, no water to drink. Every 
 thing looks very gloomy again. All we can do is to set a watch, 
 and be prepared for any emergency. We have set the tent up 
 again, as we held on to that and saved it. Half of the men have 
 sot in under it to <>;ct a little rest, while the otheis walk around 
 it outside. This is a very exciting period. If one atucmpts to 
 rest the body, there is no rest for the mind. One and another 
 will spring up from their sleep, and make a wnld dash forward, 
 as if avoiding some sudden danger. What little sleep I get is 
 disturbed and unrefrcshincf. I wonder how long we can tio'ht 
 through this sort of thing. 
 
 ".Iy>/v7 8. Worse and worse! Last night at twelve, midnight, 
 the ice worked aaain ri^ht between the tent and the boat, which 
 were close together — so close that a man could not walk between 
 them. Just there the ice split, separating the boat and tent, and 
 with the boat was the kyack and Mr. Meyers, wdio was on the ice 
 beyond the boat. We stood helpless, looking at each other. 
 
 '"The weather as usual, blowing, snowing, and very cold, wuth 
 a heavy sea running, the ice breaking, crushing, and overlapping. 
 A sigiit grand indeed, but most fearful in our position — the help- 
 less victims of this elemental rage. 
 
 '' Meyers can manage neither the boat nor the kyack — the boat 
 is too heavy, the kyack of no use to any one unaccustomed to its 
 management. Should he get in it, he would be capsized in an 
 instant. So he cast the kyack adrift, hoping it would come to 
 us, and that Joe or Hans could get it and come for him, and 
 bring him a line, or assist him some way. Unfortunately, the 
 
314 AKCTIC EXPKKIENCES. 
 
 kyack diiftetl to the leeward. However, Joe and Hans took their 
 paddles and ice-spear and went for it. springing from one piece 
 of ice to another, and so they worked over. It looks like danger- 
 ous business. We may never see them again. But all the rest 
 of us will be lost without the boat, so they are as well off as we. 
 They are lost unless God returns them. After an hour's strug- 
 gle through what little light there is, we can just make out that 
 they have reached the boat, which is now half a mile off. There 
 they appear to be heli^les.-*. 
 
 " It is getting too dark to see the end ; it is colder, and the ice 
 is closing around us. We can do nothing more to-ni<:ht. It is 
 calmer, and I must venture to lie down somewhere and get a lit- 
 tle rest, to prepare for the next battle with ice and storm. 
 
 "Davliirlit at last! We sej them now with the boat, but thev 
 can do nothing with her. The kyack is about the same distance 
 away in another direction. They have not strength to manage 
 the big boat. We must venture off and try to get to them. We 
 may as well be crushed in the ice as remain here without a boat. 
 So I determine to try and get to them. Taking a stick in my 
 hand, to help balance and support myself on the shifting ice-cakes. 
 I make a start, and Kruger follows me. We jump or step, as the 
 case may be, from one slippery wave-washed piece of ice to an- 
 other — a few steps level, and then a piece higher or lower, so that 
 we have to spring up or down. Sometimes the pieces are almost 
 close together; then we have a good jump to reach the next, and 
 so we go, leaping along like so many goats. On arriving where 
 the boat was, we found our combined strength — Mr. Meyers, well, 
 he was too used up to have any — Joe, Hans, Kruger, and myself 
 — could not stir it. I called over to the other men, and two oth- 
 ers got over in the way we had, and still our strength was insuffi- 
 cient. At last all came over but two, who were afraid to vent- 
 ure, and after a long struggle we got her safe back to camp again, 
 bringing Mr. Mevers with us. Both he and Frederick Jamka fell 
 in the water, but were pulled out again. Luckily for them, there 
 were two or three dry suits among the men, so that they could 
 change. We are all more or less wet, and Mr. Meyers badly 
 frozen. 
 
 " We have taken our tent down once more, and pitched it 
 nearer to the centre of our little piece of ice, and the boat is 
 alongside, so that we feel comparatively safe once more. Joe 
 
CLEAR Sl'NSKT. 315 
 
 has built another hut alongside the tent, anil we have breakfast- 
 ed on a few morsels of peininican and bread. We have also set 
 a wateh to observe the movements of the ice, and the remainder 
 of the men are lying down to get some sleep, of which we are all 
 much in need. Where we are the wind is west-north-west, but 
 outside of the 'pack' there is no wind. 
 
 '•^AprU 9. Things have remained quiet the last twelve hours. 
 Durintc the night the wind was north-west; now blowing a 
 north-east gale outside of the 'i)ack.' The sun shone for a few 
 minutes — about long enough to take an observation : lat. oo^ 01', 
 approximates to that. The sea is running very high again, 
 and threatening to wash us off every moment. The ice is much 
 slacker, and the water, lilce a hungry beast, creeps nearer. Things 
 look very bad. We are in the hands of God ; he alone knows 
 how this night will end, 
 
 '■'•Ea'iiin'j. The sea washed us out of our tent and the natives 
 from their hut, and we got every thing into the boat once more, 
 ready for a start; but I fear she can never live in such a sea. 
 The sun set clear in a golden light, which has cheered us up 
 with the hope of better weather. The women and children now 
 stay in the boat for safety. The ice may split so suddenly that 
 there would not be time to get them in if they were scattered 
 about. The baby is kept in its mother's hood, but the rest have 
 to be picked up and handled every time there is a change of 
 position on the ice ; but we have got thus far without losing any 
 of them, 
 
 "The sea keeps washing over, so that there is not a dry place 
 to stand upon, nor a piece of fresh-water ice to eat. We have 
 suffered badly with thirst. The sea has swept over all, and fill- 
 ed all the little depressions where we could sometimes find fresh- 
 water ice with sea-water, 
 
 " 10 P,M, The ice closing around ns fast. The wind and sea 
 going down. 
 
 ^^ 12 rj clock, M((liv'f/7it Things look so quiet, and the ice is so 
 well closed, that we have risked setting up the tent once more, 
 and intend to try and get some sleep, for we are quite worn out, 
 
 ^^Apn'l 10. Last night it was quite calm. To-day it is cloudy 
 and very warm. The ice is closed around, and we are prisoners 
 still, 
 
 "The othei morning Mr, Meyers found that his toes were froz- 
 
316 
 
 AIUTIC KXrKKIKXCKS. 
 
 en — no doubt from his exposure on tlie ice witlioul shelter the 
 day he was separated from us. He is not very strong at the 
 best, and his fall In the water has not imj)roved his condition. 
 
 ^'' April 11. Cahn and eloudy. We ean not, I tliink, be far 
 from shoi 2. We have seen a fox, some ravens, and other land 
 bird.s. The ice is still closed around us — nothing but ice to be 
 seen. We have two large bergs almost on top of us ; but, for- 
 tunately, there is no movement of the ice, or a portion of these 
 overhanging bergs might fall upon and crush us. It is at pres- 
 ent calm and still, 
 
 ^'AprU VI. Light wind from the south-east; nearly calm at 
 times. Have seen some seals, but can not get them. Are very 
 hungry, and are likely to remain so. The sun is shining for the 
 tirst time in a gooil many days, and the weather is very pleasant. 
 Got an observation to-dav : lat. 55° 85' X. 
 
 OOMIAK, OE WOMA^j'li BOAT. 
 
liAbTEK-MNDAV. yi7 
 
 ('II AFTER XXVI. 
 
 Eiister-Siiruliiy. — FIa«lios of Divinity. — Moyers's SiirteriiiK from wiint of Food. — 'Men 
 vorv Wciili. — Foarfiil Tlioiijilits. — A timely Kclii;!'. — Laiul uiicc more in Si;,'lit. — 
 Flocks of Ducks. — Grotcsijiie Misery. — A Statue of Famine. — A desolating Wave. 
 — A Foretaste i>f wurse. — Maniiintj the I'oat in a new Fasliiun. — A Battery <»f 
 Iee-l>l(i(ks. — All Ni!,'lit "standing,' liy '" the IJoat. — A feartnl Siriij,'i,'le for Lite. — 
 Worse ort" than St. Paul. — Daylij;ht at last. — Laimehcd once more. — Watch and 
 Watch. — The Sjiurt and Jest of the F.leinents. — Lack of Food. — Half d.owned. 
 cold, and hunj,'ry. — Kat dried Skin ^aved for (.'lothint;. — A Hear I a Hearl — Anx- 
 ious Moments. — I'oor I'olurl God has sent us Food. — Hecui)erating on Bear-meat. 
 — A crippled, overloaded I$oat. — A Battle of the Bergs. — Shooting young Blad- 
 der-noses.— Hoping (iH- Keliel'. 
 
 '*. !/)/•// 13. I think this mu.st be Easter- Sunday in civilized 
 lands. Surely we have had more than a forty days' fast. May 
 we have a glorious resurrection to peace and safety ere long ! 
 
 "The ice opened again last night, but closed in the morning. 
 It remained open but a few hours, slackening a little to-day. But 
 we can neither travel over it nor use the boat : we can do nothing 
 with it; we might as well be without volition. Our fate is not 
 in our own hands. 
 
 "Last night, as I sat solitary, thinking over our desperate situ- 
 ation, the northern lights appeared in great splendor. I watched 
 while they lasted, and there seemed to be something like the 
 promise accompanying the first rainbow in their brilliant tlashes. 
 The auroras seem to me always like a sudden flashing out of 
 the Divinity: a sort of reminder that God has not left ofY the 
 active operations of his will. This, with my impression that it 
 must be Easter-Sunday, has thrown a ray of hope over our 
 otherwise desolate outlook, 
 
 "Saw some seals to-day, but the ice being in such a condition, 
 we can not secure any. We should be very glad now of some 
 of the meat we w^ere obliged to abandon. Our latitude is 55° 23', 
 approximate. 
 
 ^'■April 14. Wind light, from the north. The pack still close. 
 No chance of shifting our position for a better yet. See seals 
 almost every day, but can not get them. We can neither go 
 
3l!> AUtTK' KXI'KKIKXCKS. 
 
 through the ice nor over it in its present condition. The weath- 
 er is tine and the sea calm, ur, ratlier, 1 should say, the ice is cuhn, 
 for I see no water anywhere. Lat. 55^ 13' N. 
 
 "Our small piece of ice is wearing away very fast, and our 
 provisions nearly linished. Things look very dark, starvation 
 very near. Poor Meyers looks wretchedly ; the lo.ss of food tells 
 on hiin worse than on the rest. lie ]ot>ks very weak. I have 
 much symptitliy for liim, notwithstanding the trouble he has 
 caused me. I trust in God to bring us all through. It does not 
 seem possible that wc should have been j)rescrved through .so 
 many perils, and such long-continued suffering, only to perish at 
 last. 
 
 '^April 15. Nearly calm; very light north wind. The ice still 
 the same. No change except that it was much colder — 8° to 10^ 
 below zero. Snow is falling very thiek, but without wind. 
 Stopped snowing, and sun shining as bright as ever again — a 
 spring 'spurt' of snow. This would be splendid weather to 
 travel now ; but we are stayed and can not stir. Meyers looks 
 very bad. Hunger and cold show their worst effects on him. 
 Some of the men have dangerous looks; this hunger is disturb- 
 ing their brains. I can not but i'ear that they contemplate crime. 
 After what we have gone through, T hope this company may bo 
 preserved from any fatal wrong. We can and we must bepr 
 what God sends without crime. This party must not disgrac- 
 humanity by cannibalism. 
 
 ^^April 16. One more day got over without a catastrophe. The 
 ice is still the same. Some of the men's heads and faces are 
 much swollen, but from what cause I can not discover. I know 
 scurvy when I see it, and it is not that. We keep an hour- 
 watch now through the night. The men are too weak to keep 
 up long together. Some one has been at the pemmican. This 
 is not the first time. I know the men ; there are three of them. 
 They have been the three principal pilferers of the party. One 
 of them was caught at it on the 7th of this month. I should not 
 blame them much for taking food, but of course all the others 
 will have less in consequence. We have but a few days' pro- 
 visions left. We came down still lower on our allowance this 
 morning. Rather weakening work, but it must be done to save 
 life in the end. The^ idea that cannibalism can be contemplated 
 by any human being troubles me very much. 
 
A JUYFUL SIGHT-LAND. 319 
 
 ".l^>>v7 1". Light breeze; S.S.W. The ice the; same ; no open- 
 ing yet. La t. 54^27'. 
 
 ^'A/>ri/ L^. Very li.^lit breeze from the north. 
 
 '"11 A.M. Joe .sj)iL'd ;i sinaU hoU' of water about luilf a mile 
 off. Ill' took his gun, imd ventured over the loose iee. Joe is 
 very .«niall and light, and can go where an American can not. 
 lie had no sooner reached the spot than we heard the welcome 
 sound of his rifle, lie had shot a seal, and called loudly for 
 the kyaek, for the water was making rapidly. It took an hour 
 to get the kyack there — an hour of intense anxiety, for we were 
 afraid the seal would float away; but at last, with trouble and 
 risk, it was accomplished, and a nice-sized seal, enough for three 
 meals, rewarded our exertions. We shall have to eat it raw, but 
 we are thankful to get that. It will save us from starving, per- 
 haps woise. 
 
 "The water is making quite a lead, and this morning at day- 
 light the joyful sight of land greeted our eyes. It bore to the 
 south-west. We saw it very plainly in the morning, but the 
 weather has become so thick since that we have lost sight of it 
 for the present. It is as if God had just raised the curtain of 
 mist and showed us the promised land to encourage us and keep 
 us from despair. The seal, too, has put new life in us. We have 
 only a few pounds of bread and pemmican left — enough for to- 
 night. The lead has closed up again, but the 'pash' seems to 
 slacken. 
 
 " We had visitors to-day — a raven, some other land birds, and 
 a large flock of ducks. I should think there was a hundred and 
 fifty. I wish we could shoot some of them for a meal or two ; 
 but they keep off a mile or more. We have eaten up every 
 scrap of that seal, every thing but the gall. 
 
 "Poor Meyers, he is tall and very thin. He has on his hands 
 a monstrous pair of deer-skin gloves, ever so much too large for 
 him. It looked quite pitiable, though almost grotesquely amus- 
 ing (if the case had not been so serious), to see him striving to 
 gather up some bones, once abandoned, to pick at again for a 
 scrap of meat. The gloves were so large, and his hands so cold, 
 he could not feel when he had got hold of any thing; and as he 
 would raise himself up, almost toppling over with weakness, he 
 found time and again that he had grasped nothing. If Dore had 
 wanted a model subject to stand for Famine, he might have drawn 
 
32U ARCTIC EXrERIEXCES. 
 
 Meyers at that moment and made a success, lie was the most 
 wretched-looking oliject T ever saw. 
 
 ^' Ertidn'j. It looks very threatening; breezing up from the 
 north-east, and the swell increasing. 
 
 ^'■Aijril 20. Blowing strong from the north-east. There is a 
 very heavy swell under the ice. 
 
 "At 9 P.M., while resting in our tent, we were alarmed by 
 hearing an outcry from the watch; and almost at the same mo- 
 ment a heavy sea swept across our piece, carrying away every 
 thing on it that was loose. This was but a foretaste of what was 
 to follow ; immediately we began shipping sea after sea, one after 
 another, with only from five to ten minutes interval between each. 
 Finally came a tremendous wave, carrying away our tent, skins, 
 most all of our bed-clothing, and leaving us destitute. Only a 
 few things were saved, which we had managed to get into the 
 boat; the women and children were already in the boat, or the 
 little ones would certainly have been swept into watery graves. 
 All we could do now, under this new flood of disaster, was to try 
 and save tlte boat. So all hands were called to man the boat in a 
 new fashion — namely, to hold on to it with might and main, to 
 prevent its being washed away. Fortunately, we had preserved 
 our boat warp, and had also another strong line, made out of 
 strips of oogjook-skin, and with these we secured the boat, as well 
 as we were able, to projecting vertical points of ice; but having 
 no grapnels or ice-anchors, these fastenings were frequently un- 
 loosed and broken, and the boat could not for one moment be 
 trusted to their hold. All our additional strength was needed, 
 and we had to brace ourselves and hold on with all the strength 
 we had. 
 
 "As soon as possible I got the boat, with the assistance of the 
 men, over to that edge of our ice where the seas first struck ; for 
 I knew if she remained toward the farther edge the srathered 
 momentum of the waves as they rushed over the ice would more 
 than master us, and the boat would go. It was well this precau- 
 tion was taken, for, as it was, we were nearly carried off, boat 
 and all, many times during this dreadful night. The heaviest 
 seas came at intervals of fifteen or twenty minutes, and between 
 these others that woidd have been thought very powerful if 
 worse had not followed. 
 
 " There we stood all night long, from 9 P.M. to 7 a.m., endur- 
 
A FEARFUL STRUGGLE FOR LIFE. 321 
 
 ing what I should say few, if any, have ever gone through with 
 and hved. Every little while one of these tremendous seas 
 would come and lift the boat up bodily, and us with it, and car- 
 ry it and us forward on the ice almost to the extreme opposite 
 edge of our piece ; and several times the boat got partly over, 
 and was only hauled back by the superhuman strength which a 
 knowledge of the desperate condition its loss would reduce us to 
 gave us. Had the water been clear, it would have been bard 
 enouirh. But the sea was full of loose ice, rollinGf about in blocks 
 
 O JO 
 
 of all shapes and sizes, and with almost every sea would come an 
 avalanche of these, striking us on our legs and bodies, and bowl- 
 ing us off our feet like so many pins in a bowliug-alley. Some 
 of these blocks were only a foot or two square; others were as 
 large as an ordinary bureau, and others larger ; in fact, all sorts 
 and sizes. We all w'cre black-and-blue with bruises for many a 
 day after. 
 
 '"After each wave had spent its strength, sometimes near the 
 farther edge and sometimes on it, we had then, whenever the 
 boat had got unmoored, to push and pull and drag it back to its 
 former position, and stand ready, bracing ourselves for the next 
 sea. and the battery of the loose ice which we knew would ac- 
 company it. And so we stood, hour after hour, the sea as strong 
 as ever, but we weakening from the fatigue, so that before morn- 
 ing we had to make Hannah and Ilans's wife get out and help 
 hold on too. I do not think Mr. ^Meyers had any strength from 
 the first to assist in holding back the boat, but that by clinging 
 to it he simply kept himself from being washed away; but this 
 was a time in which all did their best, for on the preservation of 
 the boat we knew that our lives depended. If we had but 'four 
 anchors,' as St. Paul describes in the account of liis shipwreck, 
 we could have ' awaited the day ' with better hojie ; but ' when 
 neither sun nor stars appeared, and no small tempest lay on us, 
 all hope that we should be saved was then taken away ' — nearly 
 all. That was the greatest fight for life we had yet had. Had 
 it not been for the strength imparted to us by the last Providen- 
 tial gift of seal-meat, it does not seem possible that our strength 
 would have sufficod for the night; and how we held out I know 
 not. God must have given us the strength for the occasion. For 
 twelve hours there was scarcely a sound uttered, save and ex- 
 cept the crying of the children and my orders to ' hold on,' ' bear 
 
 21 
 
322 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 down,' 'put on all jonr weight,' and the responsive 'ay, ay, sir,' 
 which for once came readily enough. 
 
 '• Daylight came at last, and I thankfully perceived a piece of 
 ice riding quite easy, near to us, and I made up my mind that we 
 must reach it. The sea was fearfully rough, and the men hesi- 
 tated, thinking the boat could not live in such a heavy sea. But 
 I knew that the piece of ice we were on was still more un.safe. 
 and I told them they must risk it, and to 'launch away!' And 
 away she went, the women and children being all snugly stowed 
 in first; and the rest all succeeded in getting in safely but the 
 cook, who went overboard, but, managing to cling hold of the 
 gunwale of the boat, was drairsred in and saved. Working care- 
 fully along, we succeeded in reaching the piece without other ac- 
 cident; and having eaten a morsel of food, we laid down on our 
 new bit of floe, in our wet clothes, to rest. And we are all to 
 day well and sound, except the bruises we received from the 
 blows and falls. 
 
 ^^ April 21. There are no dry clothes for any one to put on, for 
 every sea washed over us, and there is not much sun to-day and 
 but little drying in the air. We have taken off all we can spare 
 to try and dry our clothes. 
 
 ''The men are now divided into two watches, and part sleep in 
 the boat as best they can, stowing themselves here and there in 
 all sorts of positions. The ice around us is ver}^ pashy and thick : 
 we can not force the boat through it, and so must wait for a 
 change. The sun showed himself just long enough to take an 
 observation, Lat. 53°57'. 
 
 ^^'April 22, The weather very bad again last night; snow- 
 squalls, sleet, and rain ; raining until twelve noon. The ice is 
 closing around us. What we want most now is food. We be- 
 gin to feel, more than at first, the exhausting effects of our over- 
 strained efforts on the night of the 19th-20th, 
 
 ■'Now, as I recall the details, it seems as if we were through 
 the whole of that night the sport and jest of the elements. They 
 played with us and our boat as if we were shuttlecocks, ^fan 
 can never believe, nor pen describe, the scene we passed through, 
 nor can I myself believe that any other party have weathered 
 such a night and lived. Surely we are saved by the will of God 
 alone, and I suppose for some good purpose of his own. The 
 more I think of it, the more I wonder that we were not all wash- 
 
rOOR POLAR! 323 
 
 ed into the sea together, and ground up in the raging and crush- 
 insf ice. Yet here we are, children and all, even the babv, sound 
 and well — except the bruises. Ilalf-drowned we are, and cold 
 enough in our wet clothes, without shelter, and not sun enough 
 to dry us even on the outside. "We have nothing to eat ; every 
 thing is finished and gone. The prospect looks bad enough; 
 but we can not have been saved throucfh such a nisfht to be 
 
 o o 
 
 starved now. God will send us some food. 
 
 '^Afternoon. If somethinsr does not come alonij soon I do not 
 know what will become of us. Fearful thoughts career through 
 mv brain as I look at these ei^^liteen souls with not a mouthful 
 to eat. Meyers is actually starving. He can not last long in 
 this state. Joe has been off on the soft ice a little way, but can 
 not see any thing. We ate same dried skin this morning that 
 was tanned and saved for clothing, and which we had thrown 
 into the boat when the storm first came on — tough, and diffi- 
 cult to sever with the teeth. Joe ventured off for the fourth 
 time, and, after looking a while from the top of a hummock, saw 
 a bear coming slowly toward us ! Joe returned as fast as possi- 
 ble for his gun, all hope and anxiety lest the creature should turn 
 another way. All the party were ordered to lie down (in imita- 
 tion of seals), and keej) perfectly still, while Joe climbed to the 
 top and Hans secreted himself behind the hummock, both with 
 their rifles ready. It was a period of intense, anxious excitement. 
 Food seemed within our reach now, but it might yet escape. 
 The bear came slowly on, thinking, undoubtedly, that we were 
 seals, and expecting to make a good dinner upon us. A few 
 steps more, and he was within range of the rifles; both fired, 
 killing him instantly. We arose with a shout. The dread un- 
 certainty was over. We all rushed to the spot, and bending on 
 a line, dragged him, in grateful triumph, over broken ice tc camp 
 — 'camp' meaning now our boat and the point of ice where we 
 'most do congregate.' Poor Polar! he meant to dine on us, but 
 we shall dine on him. God has sent us food. 
 
 "The blood of the bear was exceedingly acceptable ; for though 
 we had more water than enough on the outside, we had nothing 
 to drink, and were very thirsty. This bear was farther to the 
 south than Arctic bears usually come. His stomach was empty, 
 and he was quite thin ; but his flesh was all the better for that. 
 When permeated with f^U, it is gross feeding, and very strong. 
 We had no hope of seeing a bear in this latitude. 
 
324 ARCTIC EXPEKIENCES. 
 
 '■'April 23. Wind east-nortb-east, and later in the day nortb- 
 nortb-cast, wbere I bope it will remain. Tbe weatbcr is still dis- 
 agreeably full of rain, sexually and cloudy. We are now living 
 entirely on raw bear-meat. Every tbing wet still, but looking 
 for bri<fbter davs. Tbis can not last long at tbis time of tbe 
 year; but we are still surrounded by tbis miserable pasb, and 
 can not get free. All well. Mr. Meyers recuperated since re- 
 fresbed bv tbe bear-meat, 
 
 ^'■Aprll 24. Wind still nordi-nortb-east, sometimes backing to 
 tbe nortb ; raining all lust nigbt, and still continuing; every tbing 
 wet tbrougb for several days now; no possible means of drj'ing. 
 
 " Saw a large flock of ducks tbis morning, and anotber later 
 in tbe day. Can not be far from land, of wbicb we get glimpses 
 now and tben, wben tbe falling weatber bolds up a little, and 
 tben, again, we seem to be driven from tbe coast. 
 
 "Tbere w\as a fine lead of water last nigbt, and I tbougbt we 
 were sfoing to bave a cbance to take to tbe boat and net to sbore. 
 but it soon closed up again, Anotber lead to-day, but fartber ofi'. 
 
 ^^ April 25. Wind increased to a gale last nigbt from tbe nortb- 
 east; raining all nitrbt and all dav, "fit was not for tbe bear- 
 meat we sbould bo cbilled to deatb — tbat keeps some beat in us: 
 but it is not equal to seal-meat for tbat, tbougb it is tender and 
 good. Now and tben, for variety, we bave a snow-squall. We 
 launcbed our boat tbis morning about five o'clock, determined to 
 try and get to bind, tbougb tbe attempt was dangerous in tbe ex- 
 treme; for tbe boat was badl}' damaged, wiib ber struggle on tbe 
 ice and otber bard usage. Sbe was scratcbed and patcbed, but 
 we bave no means now of putting ber in repair. It seemed like 
 putting to sea in a cracked bowl. But wbat were we to do? 
 
 "Tbe piece of ice we were on bad wasted away so mucb tbat 
 we knew it coukl never ride out tbe gale. Tbe danger was very 
 great eitber way, Tbe ligbt, overladen, damaged boat looked as 
 if sbe would founder; but tbe ice certainly v;ould before long. 
 if not founder, be broken up into pasb, aflbrding us not even a 
 footbold. 
 
 "So, witb tbis cripplcnl, overloaded boat, we start, the wind 
 blowing a gale, and a fearful sea running, full of smaU ice as sbarp 
 as knives. But tbank God we came safe tbrougb it, and, after 
 cifrbt bours' fruitless labor at tbe oars — for we made no westinsr 
 — bauled up on a piece of floe, and prepared to camp for tbe 
 
A BATTLE OF THE BEUG«. 325 
 
 night It snowed all night and this forenoon ; it stopped snow- 
 ing in the afternoon. We sec plenty of water some distance off, 
 but can not get to it. Can take no observation, the sun being 
 absent, and know not how far we have drifted, the weather being 
 too thick for me to recognize the coast. We are all well. 
 
 ^''April 28. A gale of >vind has sprung up from the westward, 
 and a heavy sea is running. Water again washing over our little 
 bit of floe. Had to stand ' all ready' by the boat again all night, 
 Not quite so bad as the other night, but had snow-squalls all the* 
 time, and the following forenoon. The ice seeming unsafe from 
 the effects of the gale, we again launched our boat at daylight, 
 but could get nowhere for the small ice, a heavy sea, and a head 
 wind blowing a gale right in our teeth. Had to haul up on a 
 piece of ice, after an hours exhausting but useless effort. Laid 
 down and had a few hours' sleep on the ice. 
 
 "8.10 P.M. Threatened by some heavy bergs to be smashed to 
 pieces. These bergs were having quite a battle among them- 
 selves, and bearing all the time right for us. The gale has set 
 every thing that can float moving — a grand and awful sight. 
 The sounds accompanying these collisions are frightful, combined 
 with the roar of the waves, and the actual danirer to such frail 
 supports as either our bit of floe or slender boat. Seeing they 
 were coming too near, I called the watch, and launched the boat 
 to try and get out of the way of these approaching hostile bergs. 
 We left our floe at one o'clock in the afternoon, the ice very 
 slack, and more water than I have seen for a long time. 
 
 "Joe shot three voung bladder-nose seals as we were coming: 
 along, and, not being very large, we took them into the boat. 
 Hope soon to see whalers. 
 
326 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 A joyful Sight I — A Steamer in View. — Lost again. — She disappears. — Once more 
 we seek liest upon a small Tiece of Ice. — The Hope of Kesciie keeps usa\vake. — 
 Another Steamer. — We hoist our Colors, muster our Fire-arms, fire, and shout. — 
 She does not see us. — She falls off. — Ke-appears. — Gone again. — Still another 
 Steamer. — Deliverance can not be far off. — .Vnother Night on the Ice. — Hans 
 catches a Baby Seal. — "There's a Steamer 1" — Very Foggy, and we fear to lose 
 her. — Hans goes for her in his Kyack. — She a])proaches. — We are saved! — All 
 safe on board the Tigress. — Amusing Questions. — A good Smoke and a glorious 
 Breakfast. — Once more able "to wash and be clean." — Boarded by Captain De 
 Lane, of the Walrus. — Meyers slowly recovering. — A severe Gale. — Six hundred 
 Seals killed. — Captain Bartlett heading for St. Johns. — The Escpiiniaux Chil- 
 dren the "Lions." — Awaithig the Tailor. — Going Home in the United States 
 Steamer Fro/i'c. 
 
 "4.30. A JOYFUL sight — a steamer rio;ht ahead and bearino 
 
 O O C 
 
 north of us! "We hoisted our colors, and pulled toward her. 
 She is a sealer, going south-west, and apparently working 
 through the ice. For a few moments what joy thrilled our 
 breasts — the sight of relief so near ! But we have lost it ! She 
 did not see us, and we could not get to her; evening came down 
 on us, and she was lost to sight. 
 
 " We boarded, instead of the hoped-for steamer, a small piece 
 of ice, and once more hauled up our boat and made our camp. 
 The night is calm and clear. A new moon, and the stars shining 
 brightly — the first we have seen for a week. The sea is quiet 
 too, and we can rest in peace ; for, though one steamer has pass- 
 ed us, we feel now that we may soon see another — that help can 
 not be far off. "We take the blubber of the seals, and build fires 
 on the floe, so that if a steamer or any vessel approaches us in 
 the night she will see us. 
 
 " We are divided into two watches, of four hours each. "We 
 had a good pull this afternoon, and made some westing. The 
 hope of relief keeps us even more wakeful than does the fear of 
 danger. To see the prospect of rescue so near, though it was 
 quickly withdrawn, has set every nerve thrilling with hope. 
 
 '■'■April 29. Morning fine and calm ; the water quiet. All on 
 the lookout for steamers, except those who had 'turned in,' as 
 we still call it. Sighted a steamer about eight miles off. Called 
 
A STliA.MEli IN .SIGHT. 
 
 327 
 
 lOE-liUltT OK THE TYSON PARTY. 
 
 the watch, launched the boat, and made for her. After an hour's 
 pull, gained on her a good deal ; but they did not see us. An- 
 other hour, and we are beset in the ice, and can get no farther. 
 
 "Landed on a small piece of ice, and hoisted our colors; then, 
 getting on the highest part of the ice, we mustered our rifles and 
 pistols, and all fired together, hoping by this means to attract 
 their attention. The combined effort made a considerable re- 
 port. We fired three rounds, and heard a response of three 
 shots; at the same time the steamer headed toward us. Now 
 we feel sure that the time of our deliverance has come. 
 
 "AVe shout, involuntarily almost, but they are too far off yet 
 to hear voices. Presently the steamer changes her course, and 
 
328 AUCTir EXPEIUENCES. 
 
 heads south, then north again, then west; we do not know wliat 
 to make of it. We watch, l)ut she does not get materially near- 
 er. So she keeps on all day, as though she was trying to work 
 through the ice, and could not force her wav. 
 
 "Strange! I shouKl think any sailing ship, rr.ueh more a 
 steamer, could get tluDugh with ease. We repeated our experi- 
 ment of firing — fired several rounds, but she came no nearer, be- 
 ing then four or five miles oft". All day we watched, making ev- 
 ery elfort within our means to attract attention. Whether they 
 saw us or not we do not know, but late in the aftern(>t)n she 
 steamed away, going to the south-west; and reluctantly we aban- 
 doned the lu){)e which had upheld us through the day. For a 
 while she was lost to sight, but in the evening we saw her again. 
 but farther olf. 
 
 '• While looking at her, though no longer with the hope that 
 she had seen us or would reach us, another steamer hove in 
 sight; so we have two sealers near — one on each side of us. 
 And though as yet neither have made any sign (except the fir- 
 ing in the morning, the cause of which now appears doul>tful), 
 yet we are beginning to count the hours which we can not help 
 hoping will bring us help. Some of these sealers will surely 
 come by us, or we may be able to work down to th'Mu. What 
 if we had abandoned our boat, as the men proposed in February! 
 
 '■''SuDset. Sighted land this evening in the south-west, about 
 thirty-five miles distant. Mr. Meyers thinks we are in lat. 49°. 
 We are not so for south as that. 
 
 "Hans caught a baby seal to-day. the smallest I have seen this 
 season. Our latitude, approximate at noon to-day, 53° 0' 5" N. 
 
 "April 80. The last day of April, and the last, I hope, of our 
 long trial. 
 
 '■'Eveiiittg. At 5 A.M., as T was lying in the boat, it being my 
 watch below, but which had just expired, the watch on the look- 
 out espied a steamer coming through the fog, and the first I heard 
 was a loud cry, " There's a steamer ! there's a steamer !' On hear- 
 ing the outcry, I sprang up as if endued with new life, ordered 
 all the guns to be fired, and set up a loud, simultaneous shout; 
 also ordered the colors set on the boat's mast, and held them 
 erect, fearing that, like the others, she might not see or hear us, 
 though much nearer than the others had been. 
 
 "I also started Hans off with his kyack, which he had himself 
 

ALL SAF1-: ON IJUAUD TIIK TKJUKSS. 331 
 
 proposed to do, to intercept her, if possible, as it was very foggy, 
 and I feared every moment that we should lose sight of her; but, 
 to my great joy and relief, the steamer's head was soon turned to- 
 ward us. But Hans kept on, and paddled uj) to the vessel, sing- 
 ing out, in his broken English, the unmeaning words, 'American 
 steamer;' meaning to tell them that an American steamer had 
 been lost, and he tried to tell them where we came from ; but 
 they did not understand him. We were not more than a quar- 
 ter of a mile off when we first sighted her. In a few minutes 
 she was alongside of our piece of ice, 
 
 " On her approach, and as they slowed down, I took off my old 
 Russian cap, which 1 had worn all winter, and, waving it over my 
 head, gave them three cheers, in which all the men most heartily 
 joined. It was instantly returned by a hundred men, who cov- 
 ered her top-gallant-mast, forecastle, and fore rigging. We then 
 gave three more and a 'tiger,' which was appropriate, surely, as 
 she proved to be the sealer Tvjress — a barkentinc of Conception 
 Bay, Newfoundland. 
 
 " Two or three of their small seal-boats were instantly lowered. 
 We, however, now that relief was certain, threw every thing from 
 our own boat, and in a minute's time she was in the water, while 
 the boats of the Tifjress came on, and the crews got on our bit 
 of ice and peeped curiously into the dirty pans we had used over 
 the oil-fircs. We had been making soup out of the blood and 
 entrails of the last little seal which Hans had shot. They soon 
 saw enough to convince them that we were in sore need. No 
 words were required to make tltat plain. 
 
 "Taking the women and children in their boats, we tumbled 
 into our own, and were soon alongside of the Tigress. We left 
 all we had behind, and our all was simply a few battered smoky 
 tin pans and the (.Uhris of our last seal. It had already become 
 offal in our eyes, though we had often been glad enough to get 
 such fare. 
 
 " On stepping on board, I was at once surrounded by a curious 
 lot of people — I mean men filled with curiosity to know ouv 
 story, and all asking questions of me and the men. I told them 
 who I was, and where we were from. But when they asked me, 
 'How long have you been on the ice?' and I answered, 'Since 
 the 15th of last October,' they were so astonished that they fair- 
 ly looked blank with wonder. 
 
332 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 '• One of the party, looking at me with open-eyed surprise, ex- 
 ck.imed, 
 
 " 'And icasyou on it night anddaij?'' 
 
 " The peculiar expression and tone, with the absurdity of the 
 question, was too much for my politeness. I laughed in spite of 
 myself, and my long unexercised risibles thrilled with an un- 
 wonted sensation. 
 
 "At this time the captain came along and invited me down 
 into the cabin, I then told him that there was another officer 
 in the party — Mr. Meyers, of the Scientific Department — and he 
 then invited him also to the cabin. 
 
 " We had been sitting talking of our ' wonderful,' or, as he 
 called it, 'miraculous' escape, some half an hour. I was very 
 hungry, having eaten nothing since the night before, and I want- 
 ed a smoke so much ; but I saw no signs of either food or tobacco. 
 So I finally asked him if he would give me a pipe and some to- 
 bacco. 
 
 " He said he ' did not smoke.' 
 
 " However, I soon procured both from one of his officers, and 
 had a good long smoke — the first I had had since Joe gave nn.' 
 the two pipefuls, one of those dreary days in our snow-hut. In 
 course of time breakfast came along — codfish, potatoes, hard 
 bread, and coffee ! 
 
 "Never in my life did I enjoy a meal like that; plain as it 
 was, I shall never forget that codfish and potatoes. Ko subse- 
 quent meal can ever eclipse this to my taste, so long habituated 
 to raw meat, with all its uncleanly accessories. 
 
 " On hoard the Tigress^ May 1. Captain Bartlett has all his boats 
 down this morning, sealing. Numbers of seals are to be seen 
 lying on the ice. We see also two other steamers not far off" en- 
 gaged in the same business. Joe has joined in with them, and is 
 in all his glory. Captain Bartlett spoke one of these steamers 
 last night, so that, should they arrive home before us, the captain 
 will telegraph the news of our rescue home. God bless the good 
 and kind Captain Bartlett ! He is very kind indeed ; so are all 
 the ship's company. ■ 
 
 " How stransre it seems to lie down at night in these ^.lua; 
 quarters, and feel that I have no more care, no responsibility. 
 To be once more clean — what a comfort! 
 
 " We were picked up in latitude oS"^ 35' N. I have learned 
 
MYERS SLOWLY RECOVERING. 333 
 
 that the steamer we saw on the 29tli ult. was the Earjle^ belong- 
 ing to St. Johns, Captain Jackman. Captain Bartlett says he 
 could not have seen us, or ho would have come for us, or, if he 
 could not, he would have stood by, or in some way tried to save 
 us ; that he was noted for his humanity, and had more than once 
 received medals for saving life in these waters. I am glad to 
 know this. 
 
 '■J/('_y2. There is a strong breeze from the north-east this 
 morning. Many seals in sight on the ice, but on the approach 
 of the steamer they instantly take to the water. Three more 
 steamers are now in sight. 
 
 " Captain Delane, of the steamer Walrus, came on board of 
 the Tl'jress to-day. He was as much surprised as the others had 
 been on hearing my statements. As he is likely to return home 
 before us, he wull probably telegraph the news home this even- 
 ing, "Wish I could get a telegram from home to-night. 
 
 "It is blowing a gale from the north-east, and snowing; but 
 it is so comfortable in this snug little cabin, that it is almost 
 pleasant to know that there is a storm outside, and that we are 
 sheltered from it — that it may rage without, but can not reach us. 
 
 " Mr. Meyers is slowly recovering. lie could not have lasted 
 much longer on the ice. 
 
 " The boat which has carried us so far, and has served us for 
 store-house and home orx the floe-bits, I have made a present to 
 the captain's son — a fine young man here on board. When 
 obliged to leave the floe, I had her fitted up with canvas wash- 
 boards, to keep out the water. These the men, true to their na- 
 ture, have commenced destroying. So, to save her from further 
 mutilaiion. I have given her away; but she is badly worn, and 
 of little use to any body. 
 
 ''Xo one, unless they have been deprived of civilized food and 
 cooking as long as I have, can begin to imagine how good a cup 
 of coffee, with bread and butter^ tastes. When I look back at 
 what we have passed through, I fairly shudder at the recollection. 
 
 "J/ay3. The gale has been very violent through the night, 
 and still continues. The good steamer thumps bravely against 
 the ice. Captain Bartlett this morning steamed to the westward, 
 to escape the swell. He says it is the heaviest gale he has expe- 
 rienced this season. Could we have outlived it had we remained 
 exposed? 
 
334 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 ^^Eveniufj. The gale continues with unabated violence. The 
 captain has been steaming to the south-west all day, to get clear 
 of the swell which is running under the ice. 
 
 "M/^ 4. The sun shines brightly this morning, and the wind 
 has hauled to the west, blowing strong and quite cold. Captain 
 Bartlett tells me that he has not experienced any thing like it 
 through March or April. We are now fast in the ice, under 
 which there is a slight swell runninof. Our latitude at noon was 
 53° 27' N. How we would have fared on the ice throughout 
 this long, cold gale, I know not. It is the general opinion on 
 board that we should have perished, being so near the ocean. 
 But He that guided us so far was still all-powerful to save. 
 
 " There is no steamer in sight to-day. Captain Bartlett thinks 
 of returning home soon. I hope he will, for I feel sadly worn. 
 
 "J/a^ 5. We had a light fall of snow this morning. But in 
 the afternoon it cleared of!', with a light southerly wind. The ice 
 remains close and compact around us — the ocean not far oft". 
 Can see four steamers in that direction now. Nearly all the 
 ship's company are off, with gun and gaff-book, after seals. Saw 
 some four or five miles to the east. 
 
 " I had the pleasure last evening of attending divine service. 
 It was a pleasure to me to see the rough men attend so respectfully 
 to the good old captain while he read the Episcopal service. The 
 boys and most of the men kneel nightly in prayer. The Episco- 
 pal service has this advantage, that it can be used with sincerity 
 and devotion by men in circumstances where, perhaps, no one 
 would feel competent to lead their companions in extempore ex- 
 ercises. And there can always be found in that Prayer-book a 
 prayer which will suit the circumstances. To any one who has 
 been deprived of united leligious exercises for sixteen or eighteen 
 months, it is indeed refreshing to hear the grand old prayers of 
 the Church read by lips that you know are sincere and true. 
 
 " May 6. It is blowing strong from the north ; snow-squalls 
 and cold weather. The crew of the Tigress did not get on board 
 till midnight, but they had killed about six hundred seals. The 
 Newfoundland sealers have learned of late years to stow seal-skin 
 cargoes better than they used to. I have heard old sealers tell of 
 having to abandon their ships from the oil making in the hold, 
 and rising so as to flood not only the forecastle, but the cabin ; for 
 oil will work through any thing. 
 
CAPTAIN BAKTLETT BOUND FOR IIUME. 335 
 
 "After stripping the seals, instead of trying the oil out im- 
 mediately, they used to put the skins containing all the blubber 
 loose in the hold, and sometimes, if they met with continued 
 rough weather and storms, the skins would shift and roll about, 
 so as to work out the oil, and the oil, of course, being lighter than 
 the skins, would rise and work through as described. Cargoes 
 would be spoiled, and sometimes the vessel too. But after a while 
 they learned better. It is now their custom, if try-works are not 
 set up, to lay the skins compactly, and secure them from shifting 
 by stakes and beams properly fixed. The seal-fishery is of great 
 value to the United States, and ought to be encouraged. Seal- 
 oil is excellent for light-house lamp.s. 
 
 "This morning the captain forced his vessel to where the dead 
 seals were, but oidy succeeded in getting between two and three 
 hundred out of the si.x which his men had killed. The greater 
 ]iart had been taken by another steamer belonging to St. Johns, 
 Newfoundland. 
 
 "I regret to record that the captain's son injured his hand by 
 the premature discharge of a Kemington rifle — one that was 
 brought on board by the Esquimaux. 
 
 "JAr/ 7. Captain Bartlett has concluded to go home. We 
 have been going south since morning. It is cloudy, with a 
 strong breeze from the north, and snowing. Several of our men 
 are complaining; two are down sick; Joe and Hannah are also 
 ill. Both ]\[r. ^fevers and myself are troubled with swollen feet 
 and ankles. Mr. ^feyers's hands are frozen, and need attention. 
 
 " M<oi 8. The breeze is still strong from the north. Cloudy 
 this morning. Sighted Fogo Island, one hundred and thirty 
 miles from St. Johns. 
 
 "Owing to a defect in one of the boilers, we have been run- 
 ning under canvas. Should the weather prove fiivorable, we 
 shall get to St. Johns to-morrow. We have all been troubled, 
 since coming on board, with colds, swollen feet, sore-throat?., and 
 rheumatism ; but my appetite is good, and I somewhat astonish 
 our good captain by my able performance at table. 
 
 "Captain Bartlett altered his mind during the night, and, in- 
 stead of going to St. Johns, he put in to Conception Bay, some 
 thirty -five miles north of St. Johns. lie will stay here until 
 Monday, landing the boats and sealing-gear and various things 
 from his vessel, preparing her to be hauled out at St. Johns for 
 
S'66 AKCTIC KXl'LUILNCES. 
 
 repairs. The particular port or harbor where we landed is called 
 Bay Koberts. 
 
 "J/"'/ S. While dining on shore with tiie captain to-day, we 
 were visited bv the American consul ol' Harbor Grace. We trave 
 liim the particulars of our journey ou the ice, to telegraph to Mr. 
 Molloy, our consul at St. Johns. 
 
 "I have furnished the crew with quarters on shore with Mr. 
 J. Kelpanj, who is very kind to them, and has taken them out 
 riding to see the country — those who are able to go. They are 
 all nioie or less complaining, and several of them sick. They 
 will remain on shore till the vessel is ready to start. The consul 
 here furnished mc with sixteen dollars to divide among the crew. 
 
 '"J/"// 10. Fine weather. Captain Bartlett is busy lightening 
 his vesijcl, preparing her for hauling on to the ways. I have re- 
 ceived many kind invitations to visit the shore, but not feeling 
 well, and not being suitably clothed, they are of course declined. 
 
 '■" Sii,,i.hi;/. Mi.nj ii. A bright, beautiful day. Pressing invita- 
 tions to iline on shore are sent to me from many quarters; all of 
 which I decline, for reasons named above. Besides, I feel little 
 inclineil to mix in general company at present. But I appreciate 
 the good feeling which dictates the invitations. 
 
 ''Caj)tain Bartlett's wife sent me a basket of apples this morn- 
 ing : quite a present here, and very acceptable. Apples must 
 be very .scarce here at this time of the year. I have been jotting 
 down a i'ew dates, and making iif'iiiii. bv which 1 mav be able to 
 reconstruct my lost journal in case the Po/an's is abandoned. 
 
 " J/"// 12. It is a splendid morning. a.m., I am waiting pa- 
 tiently lor the captain and crew to come on board, and get under 
 way for St. Johns. I wish once more to get clean clothes on me, 
 to get j)ro)ierly shaved, and thoroughly cleaned. Many persons 
 from Harbor Grace were on board yesterday, to see the men who 
 had drifted fifteen hundred miles on the ice. 
 
 "The Esquimaux and their families, aVi'l all of the men, are 
 troubled with heaw colds, swollen feet and less, since coming on 
 board. It is the scurvv coming out. 
 
 "8.3.") A.M. We are under way. Several lady passengers are 
 on board, on their way to St. Johns. We have a southerly wind 
 and fine weather. Arrived at St. Johns at 8 p.m. Crowds of 
 peojile on the wharf, to sec the waifs who have drifted so far ou 
 the ice. The Escjuimaux children attract much attention, espe- 
 
_. ' lll'J.. .1 i.. . II 1 1 ' : I .' ..'. !1 
 
 l^_''L'li..LL*luU 
 
THE Es'iUIMAUX CHILDREN THE "LIUNS." 339 
 
 cially the baby, Charlie Polaris. Collections of money were con- 
 stantly be'ng made by successive visitors to the Tojrea'i^ for the 
 benefit of these little ones. The American consul, Mr. Molloy, 
 was soon on board, and appears ready to do any thing and every 
 thing for our comfort. 
 
 "The men are already (8.30 a.m.) a.shore, and I hope provided 
 for. Mr. Meyers and I remain on board, awaiting the tailor to 
 make us presentable. 
 
 '• J/jy 13. Cloudy; wind easterly. The harbor of St. Jolms is 
 full of drifting ice and bergs in sight. This afternoon received a 
 telegraphic dispatch from Messrs. Harper & Brothers, requesting 
 a photographic group of our party for the Weekly. Have also re- 
 ceived a dispatch from Mr: Kobeson, Secretary of the Navy, or- 
 dering me to take charge of the men and of the Esquimaux on 
 their passage home. 
 
 ^'May 1-i. The consul has furnished all necessary funds for new 
 outfits, etc., for the men ; and whatever !\rr. Meyers and myself 
 required to draw on him for was promptly responded to. 
 
 " Many ladies call at the hotel to see Joe, Hannah, and the child, 
 who are stopping with us — some knew of them before, through 
 Captain Ilall's book. Ilans and family are stopping in a house 
 opposite. Many go to see them also; and almost every one asks. 
 ' IIow she took care of the baby on the ice ?' 
 
 " It is little care Esquimaux babies get. They are pulled out 
 of the hood for nursing, and not much else ; the only washing 
 they get is such as a cat administers to a kitten; and, while in 
 the hood, they have no clothes on. 
 
 " I have been obliged to prohibit visitors to the Esquimaux. 
 Most of the children are sick, partly from the effects of cakes and 
 candies given them by visitors — things they are not used to, and 
 can not bear all at once in profusion, after such diffeienc diet. 
 They all need rest and quiet. 
 
 '■'■May 16. Many visitors to-day. The governor's wife, Mr. 
 and Mrs. Oliphant, and many other distinguished gentlemen and 
 ladies, came to see us. 
 
 "Eeceived the intelligence that the Secretary of the Navy has 
 ordered the United States steamship Frolic to come for us to St. 
 Johns, and convey us direct to Washington. 
 
 " I shall always remember the kindness of Captain Bartlett and 
 the people of St. Johns. And thus ends our strange, eventful his- 
 tory." 
 
340 AKCTIC EXrEUIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 THE SEARCH FOR THE POLARIS, AND THE SURVIVORS OF THE 
 
 EXPEDITION. 
 
 The News of the Rescue. — Captain Tyson and Party arrive at Washington. — Board 
 of Inquiry organized. — Testimony given as to lax Discipline. — The Juniata, Com- 
 mander Braine, dispatched, with Coal and .Stores, to Disco. — Captain James Bud- 
 dington, Ice-pilot. — Ca))tain Braine's Interview with Inspector Karrup .Smith, of 
 North Greenland. — Juniata at Upernavik. — Small Steam-launch. — Little Juniata 
 essays to cross Melville Bay. — Rejielled by the Ice. — President Grant in Council 
 with ]Members of the National Academy of Sciences. — Purchase of the Tigress. — 
 Description of the Vessel. — Necessary Alterations. — List of Officers. — CajJtaiu Ty- 
 son Acting Lieutenant and Ice-pilot. — A Reporter to the New York Herald ships 
 as ordinary Seaman. — Es(iuimau Joe ships as Interpreter. — Several Seamen be- 
 longing to the Ice-floe Company ship in the Tigress. — Extra Equipments. 
 
 When the first news of the rescue of the weary waifs of the 
 ice flotilla was flashed over the wires from Newfoundland, a thrill 
 of mingled astonishment and incredulity swept through the com- 
 munity ; but to those who put faith in the first telegram sorrow 
 for the death of Captain Hall was added to the first emotion of 
 surprise. It seemed almost incredible that nineteen persons, in- 
 cluding women and small children, with a babe of two months 
 old, could possibly survive a journey of six months through the 
 darkness and cold of an Arctic winter. The telegram was brief, 
 and read thus: 
 
 St. Johns, Newfoundland, May 9, 1S73. 
 The English whaling-ship Walrus has just arrived, and reports that the steamer 
 Tigress picked up on the ice at Grady Harbor, Labrador, on the 30th of April last, 
 fifteen of the crew and five of the Esquimaux of the steamer Polaris, of the Arctic 
 expedition. Captain Hall died last summer. The Tigress is hourly expected at St. 
 Johns. 
 
 Even after the general outline of the story had been given, 
 with cufficient details to convince any reasonable person that it 
 could not be a fabrication, Arctic experts were found who pro- 
 nounced the story ' impossible ' and ' ridiculous.' So wonderful 
 was the preservation, and so fearful the difficulties to be over- 
 come, that some of those who knew those regions best were the 
 last to be convinced of the truth. 
 
BOARD OF IXyUIHY ORGANIZED. 341 
 
 Tmmediatcly on receipt of the news, the Secretary of the Navy 
 dispatched the United States steamship Frolic^ Commander 
 Schoonmaker, to the port of St. Johns, with orders to bring all 
 the survivors to Washington. 
 
 On the 27th of May, Captain Tyson, with the whole of the 
 rescued party, went on board the Frolic, which sailed on the next 
 day, arriving at Washington on the afternoon of the 5th of June. 
 In his official re})ort, Commander Schoonmaker speaks particu- 
 larly of the favorable impression produced upon him by Captain 
 Tyson. 
 
 At once a board of inquiry was organized on board of the 
 United States steamship Tallapoom, composed of Commodore 
 William Keynolds, the senior officer of the Navy Department. 
 Professor Spencer F. Baird, of the National Academy of Sci- 
 ences, and Captain 11. W. Ilowgate, of the Signal Service Corps, 
 and presided over by the lion. Secretary of the Navy, George 
 M. Kobeson, and an examination of all the adults of the rescued 
 party took place (except Ilans's wife, who can not speak English). 
 As the painful details were revealed in the plain, unvarnished 
 tale of Captain Tyson and the rest, incredulity as to the main 
 facts was no longer possible, while still the wonder grew at the 
 miraculous preservation of the party. 
 
 On the examination it was learned that, when the vessel was 
 separated from the floe, there was left on board of the Polaris 
 fourteen persons: 
 
 Captain Sidney O. Buddington, sailing-master ; Dr. Erail Bessel, chief of the Sci- 
 entific Corps : R. W. D. Bryan, astronomer and chaplain ; II. C. Chester, first mate ; 
 William Morton, second mate ; Emil Schuman, chief engineer ; A. A. Odell, second 
 engineer ; W. F. Campbell, fireman ; John W. Booth and N. .J. Coffin, carpenters ; 
 Jos. B. Mauch, Herman Sieman, Henry Hobby, and Noah Hays, seamen. 
 
 The Polaris was also reported to be in a leaking condition. Six 
 persons, including Captain Tvson and Mr. Meyers, testified to the 
 drinking habits of Captain Buddington, and all the rest to the 
 lack of discipline in the vessel under him, and several to the fact 
 of his having expressed himself "relieved," and having "a stone 
 taken off his heart," by the event of Captain Ilall's death. 
 
 Others threw a doubt over the cause of the commander's 
 death, which Dr. Bessel had pronounced apoplexy. Six days 
 were occupied in the examination of these parties, and the result 
 was that the Secretary of the Navy decided to send out immedi- 
 
;^42 
 
 ARCTIC EXrEIilENCES. 
 
 atcly a relieving party to search for and bring back the remnant 
 of the Pubrris expedition. While negotiations were pending for 
 a suitable vessel to send on the search, the head of the Naval De- 
 partment utilized the intervening time by sending forward the 
 United States steamship Juniata, Commander Braine, to form a 
 depot of supplies on the coast of Greenland, with orders there to 
 await the coming of the relief party. 
 
 THE JUNIATA. 
 
 l^he Juniata took with them a small steam-launch about thirty- 
 two feet in length, for the use of parties penetrating the fiords and 
 small inlets along the coast, Commander Braine and his whole 
 party entering with commendable zeal upon the duty of making 
 preliminary search, so far as their means, inexperience, and limit- 
 ed orders permitted. On board of the Juniata was Captain James 
 Buddington, an uncle of Sidney O. Buddington, the missing cap- 
 tain of the Polaris; the former sailed in the capacity of ice-pilot 
 to the Juniata. This vessel was a screw-propeller of some eight 
 hundred tons; and on account of her size, which exposed her to 
 great risks on the imperfectly charted coast of Greenland, and 
 the fact that she was not built to contend with Arctic ice-packs, 
 she was ordered to remain at Disco, or, at the farthest, Upernavik, 
 whence it was hoped news might be received of the missing party. 
 
 ^^^Q Juniata arrived at St. Johns, Newfoundland, early in July, 
 making the run from New York in five days and eighteen hours. 
 
TIIK JUNIATA AT Ul'EUNAVIK. 343 
 
 While lying in harbor there, some extra iron sheathing was put 
 oil lier bows to strengthen her, as she would necessarily meet 
 more or less ice, even in getting to Disco. The steum- launch 
 wi's also partially iron-clad. 
 
 The Jnniuta left St. Johns on the lltli of July, and reached 
 Ilolstcinborg on the 21st, having touched at Fiscanaes and 
 Sukkertopj)en. At Ilolstcinborg dogs for sledges and seal-skins 
 for clothing were purchased iov the use of the searching party 
 expected to arrive. From Ilolstcinborg the Juniald went to 
 Disco, and from thence to Upernavik, which she reached on the 
 81st of July. Here Commander Braine learned from the in- 
 spector, ^[r. Karrup Smith, that be had in his possession certain 
 records of Captain Hall's (referred to in Captain Tyson's journal), 
 relating to his search for Sir John Franklin. Inspector Smith 
 stated that Captain llall had fears that he might not return, and 
 wished these records preserved. Considering Commander Braine 
 a proper custodian, Mr. Smith transferred the records to his care. 
 
 While the Juniata remained at anchor at Upernavik, the 
 ^•^im-launch, the LMe Juniata, was brought into use. She was 
 
 >visioned and coaled for two months, and a party of eight — 
 olunteers, under Lieutenant De Long, and the ice-pilot — 
 J off on a searching trip on the 2d of August, reaching 
 '.tcst:ac the next day ; and, without special event, made the Duck 
 Islands on the evening of the -ith. Pushing on to Wilcox Point, 
 they encountered some pack-ice, and their fuel getting short, they 
 worked up, under sail, across Melville Bay, until within sight of 
 Cape York, when first a heavy fog and then a severe gale com- 
 pelled their return, and on the 11th of August they were back at 
 Tossac. Considering that nearly all of this little party were new 
 to Arctic scenes, and inexperienced in the peculiar dangers and 
 difficulties of navigation in the ice-beset waters of Melville Bay 
 and vicinity, we can not forbear our meed of praise for the cour- 
 age and perseverance displayed under such novel circumstances. 
 
 From the first inception of the Polaris expedition, President 
 Grant had taken much interest in all that related to it, and after 
 the close of the official examination of the ice-floe party by the 
 Board of Inquiry, the President held a consultation with the 
 Secretary of the Navy, and subsequently a conference was held 
 with President Henry, Professor Spencer F. Baird, Professor 
 Ililgarde, of the Coast Survey Office, ' "^ ofessor Newcomb, 
 
344 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 of the Naval Observatory, for the purpose of devising a more 
 thorough search than the Juniata could make for the rescue of 
 the remainder of the Polaris party. All the gentlemen above 
 named were members of the National Academy of Sciences, 
 which had furnished instructions to the Scientific Corps of the 
 Polaris. The result of this consultation was, that the President 
 authorized the Secretary of the Navy to purchase the steam- 
 sealer Ti'jress, and to fit her up for a thorough search in the Arc- 
 tie seas for Captain Buddington and his companions. 
 
 The Tbjress was bought for sixty thousand dollars, with the 
 privilege granted her owners of repurchasing her from the 
 United States at the reduced price of forty thousand. She 'vas 
 a Canadian vessel, built at Quebec in 1871, expressly for the 
 sealing trade, and was rated at three hundred and fifty tons, 
 though her carrying capacity was something over that. It was 
 the supposed strength of the vessel, and her peculiar adaptation 
 to the Arctic regions, which induced the Government to pur- 
 chase her, instead of employing one of the vessels lying idle in 
 the Navy Yards. Her build differs from ordinary vessels prin- 
 cipally in her keel lines and deck sheer ; her bow makes a very 
 acute angle ; her cutwater is flat, and widens srraduallv below her 
 water-line. In other words, she flares more than is usual, which 
 enables her to rise upon the floe-ice, breaking it through by sheer 
 weight. As originally built, she was very strong. Her sides 
 forward, for a distance of twenty feet, were over three feet thick, 
 and for twelve feet she was incased in half-inch iron ; her whole 
 frame was iron-braced, and covered with a sheathing of wood ; 
 while still further to strengthen her against the force of the ice- 
 packs, there was fixed inside at her water-line a number of heavy 
 beams running from rib to rib. In most respects she was as 
 good a vessel as could be found ready-made for the purpose in- 
 tended ; but, unfortunately, her boilers were made for soft coal, 
 and consequently her flue-room was too contracted to burn an- 
 thracite; and as the Juniata had carried nothing but hard coal 
 to deposit at Disco for the use of the Tigress^ this arrangement 
 had to be altered. After a short trial-trip the vessel was brought 
 to the Brooklyn Navy Yard, where the necessary alterations 
 were made. Her cabin was enlarged, and two deck-houses con- 
 structed, to accommodate the necessary number of officers, and 
 some other changes were introduced. Her sailing-rig is that of 
 
LiurfiL^'i ^4t__jyyiii _..::!_MI 
 
 
LIST OF OFFICERS. 347 
 
 a barkcntine, and she makes lier best time close to the wind. She 
 has two engines, direct-acting, compound high and low pressure, 
 of twelve hundred horse-power. Her propeller is set down very 
 low, so that she can work under the ice. 
 
 ^\fter all the necessary alterations and repairs were completed, 
 another short trial -trip was made to the compass station near 
 Sandy Hook, for the purpose of correcting the deviation in her 
 compasses. She had also an entire set of new rigging, sails, and 
 topmasts, and steam pipes had been adjusted for the purpose of 
 heating the vessel, as it was uncertain whether she might not 
 have to winter in the north. 
 
 The Tigress carried a complement of eleven officers and forty- 
 two men, including petty ofncers and crew, as follows : 
 
 OFFICERS. 
 
 Ci'iiimnncler — James A. Greer, commanding. 
 Lii utenant-commamler — Henry C. White, executive officer. 
 Lieutenant — George F. Wilkins, navigator. 
 Lieutenants — Robert M. Berry and U. S. Sebree. 
 Aiting Litutemmt — George E. TS'son, ice-master. 
 Artiny Master — Elisha J. Chipman, assistant ice-master. 
 
 Llngineers — George W. Mellville, first assistant (chief engineer) ; William A. Jlint- 
 zer, second assistant. 
 Assistant Pay-master — George E. Boughman. 
 Acting Assistant Surgeon — J. W. Elston. 
 
 PETTY OFFICERS AND CREW. 
 
 Frank Y. Commagere,* yeoman ; John P. Britton, master-at-arms and captain of 
 the hold: W. E. Bullock, apothecary; Jose})h Brewin, boatswain's-mate ; William 
 Sheritl', cliief quartermaster ; Samuel Randall and George Gray, quartermasters: 
 Henry Clifford, captain of the forecastle; Thomas Ilovington, captain of the foretop: 
 Gustavus W. Lindquist, captain of the maintop ; Charles Cooper, captain of the miz- 
 zentop : George R.Willis, captain of the afterguard ; William Boyer, carpenter's mate ; 
 William Hurley, cabin cook ; John P. Wallace, steerage steward ; Richard Davis, 
 ship's cook; John M'Intyre, David M, Howells, and John M'Ewen, machinists; 
 Christopher T. White, James Iloran, Samuel S'litor, Richard Brenen, Daniel Lynch, 
 and Patrick Devaney, first-class firemen ; Frederick Howlett, Jeremiah IMurphy, 
 Edward Jokish, John W. Smith, S. \\". Harding, William Lindermann, J. W. C. 
 Kruger, and Joe Ebierbiug (Esquimau Joe), seamen. 
 
 * Mr. Commagere was one of those energetic correspondents of the Neto York 
 Herald wlio are ever ready to do and dare in any field where reportorial honors are 
 to be won. Finding there was no other way to secure a passage, he shipped as or- 
 dinary seaman, and was very consiuerately appointed to the position of "yeoman" 
 by Commander Greer. Mr. Commagere was much esteemed on board, and added 
 not a little to enliven, by his intelligence and humor, the short though stormy voyige 
 of t'l e Tigress. 
 
348 ARCTIC EXi'ERIENCES. 
 
 If the Polaris bad been found in a sea-wortby condition, it was 
 arranged that sbe sbould be put in the charge of Lieutenant 
 Commander White to bring to Washington. 
 
 Captain Tyson {pro tern, lieutenant) -.vent on the Ti'jrcss as ice- 
 pilot, and Mr. Cbipman, of New London, was his assistant. 
 
 The Esquimau, Joe, also went on board the Ti'/re?-'^ as inter- 
 preter, that be might act in the very possible contingency of 
 seeking information from the natives on either coast of Davis 
 Strait. Including the crew, there were fifty -three persons on 
 board. 
 
 Joe bad sent his wife Hannah down to Wiscasset, Maine, but 
 she has spent most of the summer with their adopted child, 
 Puney, in Groton, Massachusetts; and Joe intends to spend the 
 remainder of his life in the United States, lie owns a little 
 house and a bit of land near New London, Connecticut, where 
 be can make a living by fishing. All the other Esquimaux. 
 and Ilans and family, were taken on board, to be returned to 
 Disco, Greenland, which they preferred to remaining in this 
 country, as they found it uncomfortably warm. 
 
 It will be seen by Captain Tyson's journal that the fact of hav- 
 ing only thirteen seamen, with such a large number of superior 
 and petty officers, was the cause of much suffering and unusual 
 hardship to the dozen men who bad to do the main work of the 
 ship. In consequence of being thus short-handed, there could 
 only be two watches formed. The cruise proving a stormy one, 
 involved much extra work. It bore very hard on the crew. 
 
 In regard to stores, the Tigress was supplied with a large vari- 
 ety of food, and, wnth wbat the Juniata took for her use, an am- 
 ple store for two years. Pork was substituted, to a considerable 
 amount, in place of the regular navy beef, as the former article 
 is considered better adapted to an Arctic climate ; and this was 
 complemented by large quantities of antiscorbutics, in the shape 
 of canned potatoes, onions, tomatoes, pickles, and fresh meats. 
 
 Some unwonted articles also appeared in her equipment. 
 Am.ong these were three tripod-derricks, iron-shod and spiked. 
 These derricks were for the support of large "cross-cut" or 
 "gang" saws, several of which were taken for the purpose of 
 cutting through heavy ice. Like some other patent articles, the 
 practical value was thought to be scarcely equal to the ordinary 
 mode of sawing by one man-ix)wer. 
 
GEOLOGICAL AND MINERALOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 349 
 
 Sledges built on tbe Esquimau plan, with modern and Cauca- 
 sian improvements, were taken for the use of searching parties ; 
 the bottoms of these sledges were made of slats of very tough 
 wood, curved at the ends, and about five feet in length ; the run- 
 ners were sixteen feet long, and nearly a foot deep, and were 
 made of spruce planking; and their whole length shod with 
 whalebone, except the tips, which were iron-bound. The seats 
 and runners were bound tightly together with leathern thongs 
 inserted through holes drilled in the wood. A large load could 
 be carried on one of these sledges — four or five persons, with 
 food for several days ; but it needed a strong team of dogs, a doz- 
 en or more, to carry such a sledge fully loaded over the ice. 
 
 The officers on board the Ti'jress did not expect to make any 
 scientific observations. Their orders were to "find the Polaris^ 
 and relieve her remaining company " if they could ; and every 
 thing else was to be subservient to that. Yet time was found to 
 make some very interesting geological and mineralogical collec- 
 tions, particularly in the neighborhood of Ivgitut, where large 
 works are in operation for the excavation of the kryolite of com- 
 merce, and also of mica, which exists in that locality in large 
 quantities. 
 
 Three of the seamen who had come down on the ice-floe form- 
 ed part of the company : these were Lindquist, Kruger, and Lin- 
 dermann. Some of the others who agreed to go back failed to 
 appear when the Ti'jress sailed. While she lay at the Navy Yard, 
 a constant concourse of visitors, anxious to see the sealer which 
 had rescued Captain Tyson and company, were constantly ebb- 
 ing and flowing through the gates, and overrunning the vessel, 
 to the serious embarrassment of the workmen. 
 
350 ARCTIC EXl'ERIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 The Tigress, Commander James A. Greer, sets sail. — Enthusiasm at her Dejiartnre. 
 — Hans and Family as Passengers. — "Knowledge is Tower.' — Arrive at Tes- 
 sui.-aii. — Governor Jansen.— r/^rcss j -oceeds North. — A])])roach Northumberland 
 Island. — Not the place of Scjiaration. — Make Littleton Island. — Excitement on 
 Board on hearing Human Voices. — Encampment of the Polaris Survivors foimd, 
 — Commander Greer's Success. — Esquimaux in Possession of the deserted House. 
 — Captain Tyson's Advice to seek the Whalers. 
 
 The Tigress cast off bcr lines about six o'clock on Monday 
 evening, July 1-1, and, amidst the cheers of the thousands as- 
 sembled to witness her departure, steamed away through the 
 East River and toward the Sound, saluted on all sides by the 
 shrill whistles of passing steamers, who recognized her, and knew 
 the service she was detailed to perform. Her departure created 
 far greater interest and attention than did the sailing of the Po- 
 laris two years earlier. 
 
 " The Hell Gate pilot gave place to the Sound pilot, and the 
 latter left, them at Pollock Rip, off Cape Cod, from whence many 
 sent letters home, and then turned their faces bravely to the 
 north. All possible speed was made with sail and steam ; the 
 Tigress proving an excellent sea-boat going before the wind, but 
 not so comfortable head to it, under which course she wa^ slow, 
 and given to rolling and pitching. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ilans Christian, with their interesting progeny, 
 did not commend themselves to the dainty olfactories of the na- 
 val officers, and they were quartered in the forward deck-house, 
 having for companions the surgeon, pay-master, and a Herald cor- 
 respondent. All the children had fatted up since their sojourn 
 in Brooklyn, and had assumed their normal condition of rotund- 
 ity. Many persons had given this family articles of clothing for 
 the children, and no matter what the garment was, it was im- 
 mediately put to use ; consequently, though the thermometer 
 was ranging, just before the Tigress sailed, between the eighties 
 and nineties, the children, baby and all, were enveloped in num- 
 berless dresses, sacques, and shawls wonderful to behold. Mrs. 
 
GOVEUXOR JANSEX ACTlNCi AS PILOT. 851 
 
 Ilans appeared to have no idea of keeping any tbing in reserve. 
 It is no wonder they found it warm ! 
 
 Joe had shipped as interpreter, but was put to work on board 
 as a seamen, while Hans was a gentleman passenger ; but as it 
 happened, the hitter could speak but little English, or understand 
 it, so Joe took advantage of his superior knowledge, and led the 
 simple-minded Ilans to become his drudge, by gravely informing 
 him that both were equally expected to work; thus exemplify- 
 ing the old adage, that "knowledge is power," even to an Es- 
 quimau. 
 
 The Tigress had very favorable w^eather until nearing Cape 
 Race, when the inevitable fog settled down over the ship and her 
 company ; and on the afternoon of July 22 they had a narrow 
 escape from running afoul of a large iceberg, which was fortu- 
 nately revealed on their starboard bow by a sudden lifting of the 
 fog. Early the next morning they dropped anchor at St. Johns. 
 
 Under date of August 25, Commander Greer, of the Tigress, re- 
 ported to the Secretary of the Navy that, having met the Juniata 
 at Upernavik on August 11, and shipped a supply of coal, he 
 had taken on board a Danish pilot and sailed for Tessuisak, and 
 that, while forging slowly ahead, the engine had caught on the 
 centre; that he had let go his anchor, which failed to bring the 
 vessel up, and she ran, without great force, on a smooth rock, but 
 was backed off in a few minutes without injury. 
 
 At this place Governor Jansen came on board and acted as 
 pilot, clearing them from the islands which abound in that vicin- 
 ity. We may as well here explain that the term governor in 
 Greenland is not the highest title, but is better expressed by the 
 Danish term " colonibestyrere," or steerer of the colony — that is, 
 the head man, or chief, of the settlement. This "Governor" 
 Jansen had been with Hayes, and had proved himself a valuable 
 and faithful companion and assistant ; he knew the waters thor- 
 oughly, and soon set the Tigress on her northward course. 
 
 On the same night, at two o'clock (August 12), the Tigress met 
 the steam-launch Little Juniata; but they had seen nothing of 
 the Polaris or Captain Euddington's party. Near Cape York the 
 Tigress encountered the heavy pack-ice which had repelled Lieu- 
 tenant De Long; and they were prevented by it from getting 
 close to the shore, but went near enough to have observed any 
 flag or signals, if such had been displayed. A bright lookout 
 
352 
 
 AUCTIC EXrElUtNCES. 
 
 -ii^/ 
 
 GOVERNOR JANSES AM) FAMILY. 
 
 was kept up all the time. Clearing tlie pack, they skirted the 
 eastern shore, examining Xorth Star Bay on their course, and on 
 August 14 found themselves opposite the Esquimau settlement 
 of Netlik. 
 
 They were now approaching Northumberland Island, the gen- 
 erally supposed location of the Polaris at the time of ?vjr separa- 
 tion from the ice-floe, though Captain Tyson had always suspect- 
 ed it to have been Littleton Island, as he states in his journal on 
 the ice-floe, "supposing"' it only to be Northumberland, as he 
 stated in his testimony, because Mr. Meyers, who had the means 
 of accurately knowing, asserted positively that it was. Of course 
 he and others of his party who were on board were keenly on 
 the alert to detect any familiar objects ; but as they came within 
 range, it being full daylight too, they found the scene quite unfa- 
 miliar. It was evidently not the place ; and as they were quite 
 certain they had not passed it — it being in August hght through 
 the whole twenty-four hours — they knew they must sail farther 
 north to find it 
 
C()M5IANDEU GKEEIfS SUCCESS. 353 
 
 They sailed by capes Parry and Alexander, looking sharply 
 around Ilartstenc Bay not only for Buddingtou and his comi)an- 
 ions, but also for the missing locality of the separation. At last 
 Littleton Island, with its lesser companion, M'Gary Island, came 
 in sight, and, with a simultaneous sliout of recognition by all on 
 board who had parted from the I\ilari-'<^ this was declared to be 
 the spot where the separation took place. All was now excite- 
 ment as one and another pointed oiU the familiar rocks and oth- 
 er jHjints in the view, indelibly impressed upon their memories. 
 
 Here the Ti'jress hovered around, in hopes of seeing some signs 
 of the missing ship and men. Between 9 and 10 I'.M. a boat was 
 lowered for the shore with Lieutenant "White, Captain Tyson, and 
 other officers, and then the distant sound of human voices appear- 
 ed to come from the shore, and the wildest excitement prevailed ; 
 when, Commander Greer ordering " Silence !" the sounds were 
 distinctly recognized as human speech, and in a few moments 
 more the commander was heard to exclaim, from his elevated 
 position on the bridge, " I see their house — two tents; and human 
 tififures are on the main-land near Littleton Island !" 
 
 Ko one on board doubted for a moment that these human fio-- 
 ures were Buddington and his party, and each one felt that their 
 mission was nearly accomplished; but those in the boat soon 
 discovered the mistake. The "human figures" were not the lost 
 men of the Polaris, but native Esquimaux, whose language was 
 unintelligible to all the officers except Captain Tyson. Some of 
 them wore the clothing cf civilized men. Captain Tyson obtain- 
 ed some facts from them when the boat returned to the ship, and 
 Esquimau "Joe" was then taken back with them to the shore to 
 act as interpreter, for fuller information. lie confirmed what had 
 been learned by Captain Tyson, that Captain Buddington had 
 abandoned the Polaris on the day after she was separated from 
 the floe ; that his party had built a house on the main-land, where 
 they had wintered ; had fitted it up with berths, or bunks, for 
 sleeping, fourteen in number (showing that none of the party had 
 died) ; and had also furnished it with a stove, table, chairs, and 
 other articles taken from the Polaris ; that during the winter the 
 party had built and rigged two sail-boats, with wood and canvas 
 taken from the ship, and that "about the time when the ducks 
 begin to hatch" Captain Buddington and the whole party had 
 sailed southward in these boats, 
 
 23 
 
354 
 
 ARCTIC EXrERIENCES. 
 
 The chief man among these Esquimaux al^o said that Captain 
 Buddington bad made Irim a jvesent of (he Polaris, but that soon 
 after the former left the vessel broke loose from the ice in a gale 
 of wind, and, after drifting about one mile and a half toward the 
 passage between Littleton Island and the main-land, had founder- 
 ed. The chief told in sorrowful accents how he had watched her 
 sinking — sinking, until down she went, out of his sight forever, 
 to his great sorrow and loss. 
 
 POLARIS CAMP, 1S7"2-'T3. 
 
 Commander Greer, in his report, states that exactly " one month 
 and four hours after leaving New York,'" he had found and vis- 
 ited the winter-camp of the Polaris crew. The Esquimaux were 
 in possession of the deserted quarters, and also had two tents 
 made out of canviis belonging to the Polaris. 
 
 The camp was found to be situated in lat. 78° 23' N., and in 
 long. 73° W W. On entering, a scene of disorder and wailful 
 destruction presented itself; articles of furniture, instruments, 
 books, the stove, medical stores, and an ample stock of provisions, 
 were scattered about in the utmost confusion, llow much of this 
 was the work of the retreating ; '. ^ty, and how much of the Es- 
 quimaux present, it was not easj determine ; but its condition 
 showed at least that no pains had been taken to seal up or pre- 
 serve in any way the records, book o' scientific instruments. 
 The most diligent search failed to revea. any writing which indi- 
 cated the time of their breaking up, or what route they meant to 
 pursue. One expressive article was found, namely, a log-book, 
 out of which was torn all reference to the death of Captain Hall. 
 
SEEKING THE AVIIALEU8. 355 
 
 Commander Greer took possession of all the manuscripts, the 
 log-book, the medical stores, and remains of instruments, and 
 whatever else was of any use or value, either intrinsically or as 
 relics, and then returned on 'ooard the Ti'jrtss. 
 
 As there was no further object in going north, the Tigress was 
 once more headed for Tossac, on the supposition that news of the 
 Polaris survivors might have reached that settlement. On their 
 southward course a continual and close watch was kept along 
 shore and in every direction for the Polarises boats, but nothing 
 was seen of them. ISTor, when the Tigress touched at Tossac, was 
 any news obtained. 
 
 Passing down to Upernavik, the Tigress dropped anchor there, 
 for the purpose of overhauling and repairing her machinery; but 
 could still hear no news of Buddington's party. Commander 
 Greer, therefore, decided to keeji to the south as flxr as Goodhavn, 
 where intelligence was more likely to be obtained. Leaving 
 Upernavik at 2 p.m. of the 2od of August, the Tigress arrived at 
 Goodhavn at 2 a.m. of the 25th. Here it was ascertained that the 
 whaler Arctic, of Dundee, and the Aseel; with seven others, had 
 gone northward, all expecting to sight Cape York. Ilence it 
 seemed certain that, if Captain Buddington had kept to the east 
 coast, he had already been rescued by some of these vessels. 
 
 But the duty of the Tigress could not be considered fulfilled 
 while there was no absolute information obtained as to the safety 
 of the missing men. Captain Tyson's familiarity with the habits 
 of the whalers convinced him that the vessels would at that time 
 of the year be found on the west coast, and he so explained to 
 Commander Greer, who then determined to strike over to the 
 west to try and intercept the whalers, who invariably take that 
 course in working down from ihe " north w^ater." At the time 
 of writing his dispatch he had one hundred and fifty-five tons of 
 coal aboard, and while that lasted he expressed his intention to 
 continue the search, unless sooner receiving positive intelligence 
 of the parties he had gone to seek. 
 
 Official reports are usually dry reading. "With all due respect, 
 therefore, for Commander Greer's official communications, we pre- 
 fer to give Captain Tyson's journal of the daily incidents of this 
 cruise; and in it we are sure that the intelligent reader will per- 
 ceive many valuable suggestions, intermingled with incidents of 
 an •^•..'ising character, though these were not infrequently immi- 
 nently \bi^'^^ toward tragic catastrophes. 
 
356 AKCTIC EXTERIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 CAPTAIN Tyson's cruise in the tigress. 
 
 Captain Tyson's Journal on board ihe Tigress. — "Too late." — Fire training on 
 board. — Mai de titer. — A tall Storj-. — Angling for rorjioises witli I'ork. — A nautic- 
 al Juke. — Beware of the Tigress. — Fog at Sea. — Naive Comments on Icebergs. — 
 Tender Hearts among the Blue-jackets.— Illusions. — Aurora. — Whistling to fright- 
 en the Bergs.— Splendid Northern Liglus. -Heavy Gales.— The Doctors Clerk.— 
 Two old Whalers. — We leave Night behind us. — Boor Hans's AtHiction. — Family 
 returned to Greenland. — Th;; Tigress pitching and rolling. — The Fog-blanket. — 
 Cheese for Bait. — An Iceberg turns a Somersault. — A beautiful Display. — A 
 slight Accident. — Meet the Steam-launch. — (Jtlicial Correspondence with Com- 
 mander Greer. — Ashore at Littleton Island and Life-boat Cove. — Sounding for 
 the foundered Polaris. — Abundance of P^ood abandoned by the Polaris Sur- 
 vivors. 
 
 ^■tSaiurdaj/, July 12, 1873. The Secretary of the Navy, lion, 
 George M. Eobeson, visited tlie Tigress tbis afternoon, put the 
 ship in commission, and made a sbort address to the crew. At 
 5 A.M. got under way for the purpose of correcting tbe deviation 
 of the compass at tbe buoys at Sandy Hook. Tbe weather fine 
 and pleasant, with light breeze from the south-west. Several of 
 the men quite nervous this morning, the vessel making consider- 
 able water. As I am requested to stand a watch (though no part 
 of my duty), I do so to give others an easier time. 
 
 '■'■July 13. Started at 1.28 p.m. to return to the Brooklyn Navy 
 Yard. I feel that we are too late getting off to accomplish the 
 object for which we are going. The Juniata will most likely 
 succeed, having so much the start of us. 
 
 '•'■July 1-4, 5.10 P.M. Started from the Brooklyn Navy Yard. 
 The United States steamship Brooklyn, and also the United 
 States steamship Vermo7it, manned their yards and rigging as we 
 left, while cheer upon cheer rent the air all along up tbe East 
 River; from every ferry-boat and steamer which we passed we 
 received a salute. The waving of handkerchiefs by the lady 
 passengers, and the ' hurras ' of the men, showed the deep feel- 
 ing of the people, and the interest which they took in our mis- 
 sion. It was as much as to say, ' God be with you ; rescue those 
 people, and a safe return home to you ;' so at least I felt it. The 
 
SICK BLUE-JACKETS. 357 
 
 cheering from passing boats and the waving of handkerchiefs 
 continued until darkness closed around us. 
 
 '■'■July 15. Light breeze from the south-west. "We arc pressing 
 along under both steam and sail as fast as possible, but our ves- 
 '>ol is far from fast. I ho})e, if slow, she will be on the 'sure' 
 principle, and arrive in time to get those people before the Ju- 
 niata. It is extremely hot this morning; very little wind, scarce- 
 ly enough to ruffle the quiet waters of Long Island Sound. 
 
 "6 P.M. We are now between Block Island and Point Judith, 
 going along about seven knots an hour. Hans and his family 
 were the centre of attraction yesterday, but this morning, on go- 
 ing into the apartments they occupy, the stench drove every one 
 out; so their attractions are much diminished to-day. 
 
 "We had 'fire-training' this evening. All were stationed at 
 quarters, my station being at the magazine. I stood at my post 
 boldly and fearlessly, knowing it did not contain any thing more 
 explosive than canned meats and fruits ! 
 
 '■^Jidy 16. Fair, with just enough wind from the north to kick 
 up a lively sea. The pilot left at 8 a.m., and we are now fiiirly 
 at sea. I have sent the last good-bye to wife and family for a 
 time (God willing). There are many sick this morning among 
 the men, and it is laughable to see how they try to aide their 
 weakness. They bear up against it manfully, put on a stprn and 
 sober face, and say, ' I"m not sick ; but I don't care for any break- 
 fast this morning.' Some are inclined to sit on or near the rail, 
 and every once in a while their heads will disappear over the 
 side. What engages their attention just then I am not anxious 
 to observe. Ilans's family are all sick too, and every body else 
 is sick of them. We are ffoing along this evening at the rate of 
 five knots, through the stormy tide rips of George Shoals. 
 
 ^'■Juhj 17. It is a fine pleasant day, the sun shining brightly; 
 a cool but gentle breeze from the N.N.E. All now appear hap- 
 py and contented. Some amuse themselves with the violin, oth- 
 ers telling yarns. One by our yeoman, who, by-the-way, is a 
 man of some account, he being no less than a ^Herald correspond- 
 ent,' but who shipped before the mast, finding no other way to 
 get a passage on board — he, speaking of tall men, outdid the ex- 
 perience of the others b}^ declaring that an acquaintance of his was 
 so tall that he could stand on one side of a carriage, reach over 
 the top, and open the door on the opposite side. That was rath- 
 
358 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 er u long stretch, even for a sailor's yarn. We see many little 
 fisliing-sinacks, little fellows which look as if one good sea would 
 annihilate them; but they are like the ducks, always on the top 
 of the rising crests. Indeed, accidents seldom haj>pen to them. 
 
 •' Our hours for meals are : breakfast at a.m. ; dinner at 3 P.M. : 
 tea at 6 p.m. 
 
 ''•Jahj 18. Cloudy and cool. AVe arc making very slow prog- 
 ress indeed this morning — only two miles an hour. There is a 
 strong east wind, and, as our course is east, it is consequently dead 
 ahead. There is, too, a dirty little short vsea running, which hin- 
 ders us very much. The men are very busy at work, cleaning 
 paint, scraping, and scrubbing decks. Lat. at noon, -17" 17' N., 
 long. 64° 19' W. 
 
 "An anmsing incident occurred this afternoon. ^Fany por- 
 poises were playing about the ship — quite a novel sight to those 
 on board who have not been to sea befoie. Our doctor's clerk, 
 or apothecary, was running around the deck preparing a line and 
 hooks. Finally, coming up to ]\Ir. Chipman (assistant ice-pilot), 
 he asked ' w'hat kind of bait they used to catch these porpoises 
 with?' Mr. Chipman told him by all means to 'bait his hook 
 with pork.' To those wdio understand that porpoises are cap- 
 tured with the harpoon and lance, it will readily be seen where 
 the joke comes in. 
 
 '•'Jiibj 19. Beautiful weather, with light south-east breeze; 
 numerous porpoises still playing around the Ti'jress, which, now 
 we have got all sail on, is going through the water at the rate of 
 seven knots an hour. This evening the breeze is strong, and it 
 looks like rain. We have all come away without rubber coats. 
 It was supposed that w^ater-proof suits were among the stores, as 
 a supjily had been ordered, but they can not be found. So, when- 
 ever it rains, whoc^^T has the watch on deck will have to take a 
 good wetting. It has been quite cold the last three days — cool 
 enough to bring out the overcoats. We work hard every day, 
 trying to get the vessel in presentable condition before arriving 
 at St. Johns. 
 
 "e/»///20. It has been a wretched day, so far as weather is 
 concerned. It rained through the entire night, and continued 
 up till noon, when the wind changed from S.E. to S.W., bring- 
 ing a thick fog. We go along carefully, sounding our way ; in- 
 deed, have done so since leaving Brooklyn. We are now this 
 
FOG AT SEA. 359 
 
 evening (S P.M.) three Imndred miles from St, Johns. It is 
 densely thick to-night; so the steam-whistle is kept constantly 
 screaming every five minutes, warning all ocean travelers to be- 
 ware of the Ti'jress. But we do not mind bad weather, for our 
 wardroom, is very comfortable. Some of the officers — we are 
 eleven in number — are enjoying themselves with a violin, while 
 others are reading, the propeller thumping away, and the 
 whistle screaming, so that sleep is scarcely obtainable at present. 
 
 "e/^///y 21, It was densely thick last night, and the fog so very 
 wet that we needed the missing rubber outside garments very 
 much. The wind is fair, and we go along at a good jog, with a 
 long, heavy swell from the southward, which keeps the Ti'jress 
 rolling in a very uncomfortable manner. This morning tl e sun 
 forced his way through the fog and finally dispersed the mist, 
 for which we are truly thankful, Nothing is more annoying 
 than fog at sea. It is worse than the darkness of night — for the 
 eyes become partiall}^ accustomed to that sort of darkness, and 
 can see something; but in foggy weather one can discern abso- 
 lutely nothing a few feet off". 
 
 '■'•July 22. This morning at 8 a.m. the westerly breeze brought 
 down another thick fog upon us; it continued very dense until 
 4.10 P.M., when, just as we had stopped the engine, and brought 
 the ship's head to the wind to sound, behold the fog disappeared, 
 blowing away to the eastward, and as it lilied w^e discovered the 
 coast — the coast of Newfoundland, just above Cape Hace, about 
 forty miles from S*^. Johns. Nearly at the same moment I per- 
 ceived an iceberg about four miies ofl:* to the eastward. This 
 w^as the first berg seen by us, and the first ever seen by many 
 on board, and it consequently attracted much attention. Some 
 wanted to know ' if it was as large as the one I had drifted on so 
 far?' not reniizing the difference between o. ffoe, which is com- 
 paratively flat, and a herj, which is of an elevated structure. 
 Some thought it 'beautiful,' others that it 'looked cold,' They 
 will see many more of these beautiful, cold bergs before they get 
 back. To-night we shall arrive at St. Johns, making our passage 
 nine days from Brooklyn. 
 
 " July 23. We arrived at St. Johns at 6.30. The wej.ther quite 
 pleasant for this part of the world, although it is clocidy, and 
 some little rain falling. The pilot boarded us as usual, after we 
 got into the harbor. I have been on shore, but soon returned, 
 
3 GO ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 it being my watch. As we are about to take our departure from 
 St. Joiins to the far north, every body is busy writing home. 
 How much the sailors tliink of home — their hearts are not all 
 hard! The steamer from Europe touched here this afternoon, 
 staying but to take the mail. I hope my letters have gone by her. 
 
 "«/?//// 27. Since 8 a.m. the weather has been beautiful. We 
 left St. Johns last evening at 6 P.M. At eleven this mornine, it 
 being Sunday, we had divine service, all the officers attending. 
 
 " We have laid in an abundance of stores, such as fresh meat, 
 potatoes, eggs. Bass's ale, chickens, and three little pigs, two of 
 which, how^ever, died last night. We have also a cat, purchased 
 by one of the officers. We lost two men at St. Johns, and ship- 
 ped three: one of the men who escaped, the carpenter's mate, 
 went off in double -irons, he having been discovered with his 
 trunk packed, preparing for desertion. We have already started 
 our steam in the wardroom, some complaining of the cold already. 
 
 '■^Julij 28. Some little rain this morning, but otlierwise pleas- 
 ant. There is nothing doing but the usual routine on board 
 ship. Some of the boys who indulged too freely of the good 
 things at St. Johns are feeling the effects now. One discovered 
 last night a very large white rat, which, on investi^Ption, proved 
 to be the innocent cat before mentioned. Another, .vhose watch 
 did not commence until daylight, got up at midnight, and c'^)uld 
 scarcely be convinced that it was not morning. 
 
 "Last night, about low meridian, there was a beautiful aurora, 
 extending from west to east, and covering the whole heavens to 
 the northward. The display was very brilliant, showing all the 
 colors in nature; vivid flashes resembling lightning followed 
 each other in quick successioUj the electric clouds encountering 
 and running together as if endowed with life. While writing 
 the above the wind hauled from the south-west to the north-east 
 again, bringing our old enemy, the fog. As soon as it gets foggy 
 there is a great -vorry in some quarters about bergs. Overcoats 
 are called for, and some have even taken to mittens. 
 
 ^'"Ecening. It is again cool but clear; the wind is ahead, greatly 
 retarding our progress ; for without a fair wind and sails to help 
 we get along very slowly. But, slow as we are, we are constant- 
 ly increasing the length of our day. Ai this date there is not 
 more than five hours of darkness out of the twenty-four. This 
 evening our latitude is 52° 1-i' N. 
 
AUKOKAL DISPLAY. 361 
 
 ^^Jultj 29. Foggy again, but thanks for a fair wind. All .sail 
 set, and steam propelling us along as fast as possible. We sound 
 our steam-whistle every five minutes, but for what purpose I 
 know not, unless to frighten the bergs; for in this vicinity there 
 are no ships to run into. The sun set this evening at b.lO p.m. 
 Now it is nine o'clock, and yet there is good light, as the fog has 
 cleared off, leaving us a fresh breeze from the south-west. We 
 are now going along at from seven to eight knots per hour. Lat. 
 at 8 P.M. 55° 18' N. 
 
 ^'■Julij 30. It is a cloudy day, the sun showing himself occa- 
 sionally through the clouds; pleasant breeze from the westward. 
 With all sail and steam on, our little craft gets along merrily — 
 making, from twelve, noon, yesterday to noon to-day, one hun- 
 dred and ninety-six miles on our northward course. Last night 
 there was another auroral display, covering nearly the whole 
 heavens. The electric flashes were very brilliant; at first the 
 undulations were of a graceful and tremulous motion, and then 
 
 " 'Anon, as if u sudden tvumiict spoke, 
 
 Banners of gold and pmple were tlung out ; 
 Fire-crested leaders swept along the lines, 
 Which from the gorgeous depths, like meeting seas, 
 Rolled to wild battle.' 
 
 The scene was one which could scarcely be excelled for spirit 
 and beauty. 
 
 " J«<(y 31. We have a very bad morning; dirty, rainy, blow- 
 ing weather, with a head wind, our little vessel pitching and roll- 
 ing in a very uncomfortable manner. Steam is on," full power, 
 and we are battling against wind and sea, but making no head- 
 way. 
 
 ^^Aug. 1. The gale still continues, but the wind has hauled 
 more to the west, and the rain has ceased, but leaves a very bad 
 sea running; it is also quite cold: thermometer -|-47°. The tem- 
 perature of the sea- water is the same as the air. No accident has 
 yet occurred worth_^ of note, except during the late gale a slight 
 one, which might have proved serious. The doctors clerk, who 
 goes by the inelegant sobriquet of the 'puke-jerker,' was lying 
 on the transom locker asleep, when his medicine-chest from above 
 gave a lurch and came down on him. Had it struck him on the 
 head he would certainly have been killed— by his own drugs. 
 It was a narrow escape. 
 
3(32 ARCTIC EXl'KHIEXCES. 
 
 ".l»y. 2. The weather still remains cloudy, but the wind is 
 fair, and we are making our way northward at the rate of six or 
 seven miles an hour. Before leaving Brooklyn, I had explained 
 to Commander Greer and Executive Officer White what my views 
 were about the position of the Polaris at the time of my separa- 
 tion from her. From an examination of the ciiarts, I felt quite 
 sure that Sergeant Meyers had made a mistake, and that my orig- 
 inal impressions were correct. 1 have told Commander Greer that 
 he would not find the Polaris at Northumberland, but at Little- 
 ton Island. 
 
 "10 r.M. Eaining again, but the wind is fair, and the coast of 
 Greenland about forty miles distant; but as yet its lofty, rugged 
 mountains can not be seen, on account of cloudy and hazy weath- 
 er. Lat. 62° 5-i' N,, long. 58° 50' W. at noon, which at our pres- 
 ent rate will bring us this evening abreast of Fiscanacs. ^[any 
 species of gulls are sporting around the little Tigress, also whales — 
 the fin, the hump-back, the bottle-nose, and the huge sulphur-bot- 
 tom — large numbers of them. It reminds me of my old whaling 
 days; and Mr. Chipman, forgetting for the moment that he was 
 in the United States service, and consequently ought to conserve 
 bis dignity to the utmost, could not forbear exclaiming, in whaler 
 plirase, as he caught sight of a spout, 'There she blows!' w^hile, 
 I, to foster his momentary illusion, promptly responded, 'Where 
 away ?' But dignity and silence were soon resumed. 
 
 " We have now left night behind us, though not quite within 
 the Arctic circle yet. But it is twilight at midnight. Poor 
 Uans and his family were subjected to a severe afUiction to-day, 
 being compelled to strip off their vermin-infested clothing and 
 put on clean, than wh;';li I suppose no greater discomfort could 
 be imposed upon them. The discarded clothing was put into a 
 strong pickle, to destroy the parasites with which it was all infest- 
 ed. Hans and flimily will have a grand rejoicing on getting once 
 more to 'Greenland's icy mountains,' their 'native heath,' where 
 they can enjoy their dirt, with none to molest or make them 
 afraid. 
 
 ^'Ai^'j. 3. This morning, the weather having partially cleared, 
 we sight the coast of Greenland, just abreast of Sukkertoppen. 
 The lofty mountains were covered with snow, with here and there 
 a glacier, making a very picturesque, though a grand and almost 
 terrible, coast scene. We have passed several bergs this evening ; 
 
ICEBERG SOJIEUSAULTS, 363 
 
 and the weather is wretched again, fog, rain, blowing, and a head 
 wind at that. 
 
 ^^Vl.Midnt'jJd. I liave just come from deck. The short sea, 
 and pitching and rolling of the vessel, has made it any thing but 
 pleasant; besides, I iiave had a thorough soaking in the last four 
 hours. I must say wc have had a very unpleasant passage as far 
 as weather has been concerned. It has been rainy, foggy, or head- 
 winds a great part of the time. The excitement on board on 
 passing a berg is quite ludicrous, at least it ap})ears so to me. 
 One would think the Day of Judgment was just at hand, to see 
 some of the pale faces. 
 
 ^^Au'j. 4. The rain has ceased, the fog has cleared, but it is not 
 settled, clear weather; it is so cloudy one can almost feel the 
 heavy cloud-atmosphere enveloping us — much, I should thinlc, as 
 aeronauts describe their sensations on passing through a cloud- 
 belt. The coast of Greenland, in the distance, is covered as with a 
 heavy pall, the mountain peaks occasionally showing themselves 
 above the dark clouds which enshroud the land. 
 
 '•'•An'j. *J. Well, we have been to Disco — arrived there on the 
 morning of the 6th ; coaled the ship, and off again on the 8th. 
 The Jnniata had gone on north, I suppose, as far as Upernavik. 
 taking a full supply of coal belonging to the Polaris, and leav- 
 ing fifty or sixty tons for the Tigress. We had a very })]easant 
 tune at Disco, going on shore and having a dance, and the officers 
 of the Ti'jress are very much gratified with their visit The doc- 
 tor's clerk has been fishinsr, using cheese for bait! 
 
 "At last we have had a beautiful icebenir exhibition. As I 
 was going on shore in the boat, my attention was attracted by 
 the oscillatory motions of a large berg of irregular formation, 
 only a short distance from me. I watched it with much inter- 
 est, for, appreciating its peculiar movements, I anticipated the re- 
 sult. At first it swayed backward and forward with a gentle in- 
 clination for a few moments ; then I perceived that it was losing 
 its balance, when, as if endued with the consciousness that it had 
 lost its original poise, and was seeking to re-establish its centre 
 of gravity, it trembled for an instant, as if uncertain which way 
 to plunge, and then turned over toward me in the most graceful 
 of somersaults. As the immense mass struck the water, many 
 large pieces were shaken from the top; the white foam swirled 
 around the vortex formed by the descending mass ; there was a 
 
364 ARCTIC KXPEKILXCES. 
 
 shiver and a struggle, as if some sentient creature were in dan- 
 ger of drowning; the waves sent out by the disturbed waters 
 rocked my little boat with a heavy swell. But in less time than 
 I have taken to describe it, the beautiful berg, with somewhat 
 altered proportions, had arisen from its bath, readjusted its centre 
 of gravity, and presented to my view another fa(;ade, on which 
 the summer's sun enkindled a marvelous combination of hues, 
 and av/ay sailed my lovely berg, calm and majestic as a queen in 
 new tiring robes. Those on board of the Tirjress who were on 
 the lookout had the full benefit of the display, 
 
 ^^Awj. 10. This morning we arrived at Upernavik ; it was cloudy 
 and raining. Many large bergs around, some of huge propor- 
 tions, and, I must sny, some of them very beautiful, particular- 
 ly several which appeared like artistic architectural structures. 
 Getting near the harbor, the tall spars of the Juniata were dis- 
 covered; also a Danish bark, the llioncahls'm. In a few minutes 
 we were at anchor, and in a few more had all the news. The 
 Juiii'ita, or, rather. Commander Braine, has dispatched the steam- 
 launch across Melville Bay. 
 
 ^^Ai(f/. 11. Fine weather; preparing to get under way, and it 
 looks like preparing to winter. We left Upernavik at o p.m. 
 The crew of the Juniata cheered us as we got otl". Away we 
 steamed, through i.slands and bergs — bergs in thousands. Six 
 hours carried us to Tessuisak. On going into harbor, the engine 
 caught on the centre ; therefore could not back the vessel, and she 
 ran on the rocks, but was soon got off again, and, having dis- 
 charged the pilot, started for the farther north. AVe had gone 
 but a short distance, when the launch of the Juniata was dis- 
 covered heading toward the south. How far they have been I 
 could not ascer^ain, but I judge not far. They had no intelli- 
 gence of the Polaris. 
 
 '■^AiiQ. 12. Fine weather. "We are steaming gayly along, and 
 are about entering Melville Bay, the dread of whalemen ; bergs 
 are in sight, but no pack-ice. 
 
 '■'■Aug. 13. Clear and pleasant. Last night we saw the mid- 
 night sun. This morning sighted Cape York, getting within 
 about six miles of the cape ; found it surrounded by a pack. 
 Seeing no signals, the commander concluded to keep on ; so we 
 rounded the west end of the pack, and are now steering north 
 again. 
 
OFl'ICIAL CUUKKsroNDEXCK. 365 
 
 '',h<y. 14. This morning I received the following communica- 
 tion from Captain Greer : 
 
 " ' United States Stcam.ohip Tirirem, Smith Sonnd, Aug. 14, 1^73. 
 
 " * Sin, — Having this morniiif; passeil near to Noitlniinljcrland Island, art'ording a 
 
 good view ol tlie same, I desire you to ^tate to me in writing whetlier in your oiiinion 
 
 the said ishmd was the one whieh was seen by you w Ik ii you were separated from the 
 
 Pii/uiis, in October, is'-j. It' in your ojiinion it is not the i^lalld, you will statu to 
 
 me in detail the reasons why you tbrm that opinion. 
 
 "'Kespeetfully, etc., .I.\s. S. Gkker, 
 
 "'Commiiudaut, commanding. 
 '"Geo. E. Tyson, Ice-maater, United States Navy, 
 
 Uuited States Steamship Tiiji-eitn.' 
 
 " To which I made the following reiAy : 
 
 "Tnited States Steamship Tiarrfi^, at Sea, Ang. 15, 1^'". 
 
 '••Stii, — My reasons for thinking Northumberland Island is not the island where 
 
 the Polnris separated from me are as follows, viz. ; the island is much larger than 
 
 the one I saw the PiJarifi go behind ; and Ilakliiyt Island, off tlie north-west end of 
 
 Niirthumlierland Island, is larger than the island — or rock— olf tlie island where I 
 
 last saw the Polaris ; and the surrounding land in the vicinity of Northuinberhmd 
 
 Island does not correspond with that I saw at the time of separation. 
 
 " ' Very respectfully, tJKo. E. Tyson, 
 
 " 'Ice-master, Uuited States Navy. 
 'Commander James A. Gbeek, United States Navy, 
 
 commanding United States Steamship Tigress.' 
 
 ^''An/j. 14. Blowing a strong gale from the soutli-cast. We 
 are now abreast of Northumberland Island, and it has turned 
 out as I anticipated — the Polaris is, or was, at Littleton Island. 
 We have steamed along the land within three miles of it, since 
 leaving Ctipe York, colors flying all the way, so as to attract 
 the attention of the wanderers, if they are anywhere within sight; 
 but we have seen no natives, nor any thing denoting the exist- 
 ence of human beings. We are now on the classic ground of 
 Kane and IIa3'es. 
 
 " This evening the weather is much better ; snow-squalls, but 
 very little wind. As we approached Littleton Island, I recog- 
 nised at once the scene of our separation from the Polaris. 
 Though the season of the year is so difterent, being then in al- 
 most continuous darkness ; though the weather is now compara- 
 tively warm, and the rocks bare of snow, yet the shape of the 
 islands, the forms of the rocks, the contour of the 'everlasting 
 hills ' had not changed. I perceived without a doubt that it was 
 from this point that I had been floated olf on that marvelous 
 God -built raft, which, with his aid, had borne our company, 
 through fearful perils and suffering, to safety, home, and friends. 
 
36G ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 As we ncarcd tlie exact spot, I could not but give thanks to God 
 that he had preserved mc to come back and see by the light of 
 the summer's sun the scene of desolation where the Polaris had 
 drifted awa}'' from us. But where was the ship? Nothing was 
 to be seen, of her. By 7 p.m. we were steaming round the north 
 side of Littleton Island, which had last shut out the Puhiri'i from 
 mv siuht. The thouuht came to me, with significant meaning 
 now, of that devilish proposition which I recorded at the time in 
 my private journal. The engines were now stopped, a boat low- 
 ered and manned by all the officers of the vessel, including my- 
 self; and we had scarcely got clear of the ship, when cries from 
 human beings were heard on shore. "VVe were about one mile 
 and a half from the beach ; and as these voices reached our ears, 
 the excitement of anticipation put double speed into the strokes 
 of the oarsmen. Our boat fairly sprang through the water: but 
 on getting nearer to the shore, I was convinced by the actions of 
 the party that they were not those whom we sought, nor white 
 men of any description. Their actions and antics proclaimed 
 them Esquimaux at sight. A few moments more and we were 
 on the rock-strewn beach ; and there the first thing which caught 
 my eye was an old hawser, evidently belonging to the Polaris, 
 one end fiist to a rock, the other afloat in ihe water. 
 
 " The natives — four or five — gathered around us, and I was 
 soon in conversation with them. From these simple-minded but 
 truthful Esquimaux I learned that the fourteen men of the Polar/'s 
 had gone south some two months ago. Thev had built two boats 
 with material taken from the ship. After Buddington and his 
 party had left, the Polaris broke out of the ice, had drifted off 
 and sunk, to the great grief of the chief to whom it had been left 
 a.^ a legacy. We next sighted a large canvas house. On ap- 
 proaching it, we saw the wreck and ruin of the fore -doomed 
 ship — spars, doors, paneling, sails, rigging, stores, pork, meal, 
 tea, corn, potatoes, books, broken compasses, and instruments of 
 various kinds. Eeturning on board the Tigress, we reported the 
 condition of affairs to Commander Greer, who instantly started 
 for shore, returning again in about two hours. The executive 
 officer. Lieutenant White, then went, and I accompanied him, 
 but gained no additional information. We picked up many rel- 
 ics of the Polaris, such as books, tools, and manuscripts, which 
 Captain Greer has now in his possession. 
 
LOSS OF THE POLARIS. 367 
 
 '•One of the natives informed me tbat before Captain Biukling- 
 ton left he had presented the Po^'iris to him. The native was 
 much grieved that his prize had sunk and was lost to him. We 
 spent the whole night sounding for the wreck, but sounded in 
 vain ; no trace of her could be found. But there, on shore, was 
 evidence enough. All were satisfied that the Polaris no longer 
 remained afioat. 
 
 "Captain Greer now decided to return at once, as nothing 
 toward the rescue of the party could be done here ; so we bore 
 away to the southward. The latitude oi Littleton Island is 
 78° 24' N. 
 
 " There is one thing certain : these men did not suffer from the 
 want of food or fuel, as discarded provisions were lying scattered 
 all among the rocks, and, of course, the natives had eaten all they 
 wanted in the interval besides. 
 
 SCENE IN SOUTHERN GREENLAND. 
 
368 ARCTIC EXPEKIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Ilomeward-bound. — Eire I Fire I — An lionored Custom. — Contrast of tlie Sailors 
 Life. — A Set-oti' to the Midiiigia Siin.^ — Heavy Gale. — All want to shoot a Bear. — 
 Executive Officer White the '"killing" Man. — A narrow E>cape. — Thoughts of 
 Home. — At Upernavik for licpairs. — The Danish and half-breed Girls. — Dress. — 
 Dancing. — A startling J\ecord. — At Goodhavn Harbor. — Captain Tyson visits the 
 Juniatd. — Continued bad Weather. — .Sight Cape Mercy. — The Sea sweeps the Gal- 
 ley.— The Cook disgusted. — Etlects of the Gale in the Wardroom. — '"At home" 
 in Niountelik Harbor, Cumberland Gulf. 
 
 "^•Iwy. 15. nomeward-bound. The day is fine; all appear in 
 good spirits, Commander Greer especially, lie has been very suc- 
 cessful, it being but one month since the Tigress went into com- 
 mission, before she was lying alongside of Littleton Island. I do 
 not think there is another passage on record equal to it ; but our 
 spirits are a little dampened at not finding the survivors. I have 
 no fears but that they are all alive and well ; but we should like 
 to have had the pleasure of picking them up. There is no difti- 
 culty at this time of the 3'ear in working down to Upernavik, or 
 even getting to the whaling-grounds. I feel sure, therefore, that 
 they are either at some of the settlements on the coast of Green- 
 land, or that they have already been picked u]) by some of the 
 English or Scotch whalers. 
 
 "^1",7 16. Cold to-day, with a strong easterly wind. At 1.15 
 P.M., as I was walking the bridge, guiding the vessel clear of 
 the many bergs in the vicinity of Cape York, the boatswain's, 
 mate came to me. 'Sir,' said he, 'there is a great deal of smoke 
 coming through the forward bulk-head.' I instantly mistrusted 
 fire. Going immediately to the cabin, I informed Captain Greer. 
 Captain and officers were soon on the berth-deck; the hatches 
 and store-room were opened, but the fire was not there. The 
 fire-bell was then rung, calling all hands to quarters. The main 
 hold was broken out, and th^ decks were soon covered with box- 
 es, barrels, etc., but the fire was at last found to be in the coal- 
 bunkers— the coal itself was on fire. We immediately com- 
 menced hoisting it out on deck, and after shoveling many tons 
 
AN HONORED CUSTOM. 860 
 
 from the starboard lo the port side, got at the fire and flooded it 
 with water. 
 
 " In forty-five minutes from the time all hands were called to 
 quarters the watch was piped below again. There had been no 
 unseemly excitement; all were v'^alm and cool as a summer's 
 morning after rain. Here we see the true American spirit of 
 self-control. The incident was one to make me feel proud of my 
 countrymen. 
 
 ^'■Aiiff. 17. We have a severe gale on us; thick — sometimes 
 hail, then rain. We are making but little headway against wind 
 and sea. 
 
 "It is a time-honored custom in the navy to devote Saturday 
 night to drinking to the health of sweethearts and wives. I gen- 
 erally honored this usage ' more in the breach than in the observ- 
 ance,' but last night I joined my brother-ofiicers. With the wild 
 storm raging over these northern seas, we all assembled in the 
 wardroom, and until midnight consoled ourselves for our en- 
 forced absence from the kind hearts we left behind us by drink- 
 ing to their health and happiness, and wishing ourselves a safe 
 and speedy return. But at twelve it was my watch on deck, and 
 out I tumbled, from the light and warmth and joviality of the 
 wardroom, into the cold and darkness of the storm. A very dif- 
 ferent next four hours awaited me — rain, hail, wind, icebergs, and 
 thick weather. Such are the sudden contrasts of the sailor's life. 
 Before my watch was out, at 4 a.m., I was thoroughly soaked 
 through, and it was with no gentle summer ruin either. 
 
 " On the l-lth inst. we had bidden adieu to the midnight sun. 
 On that occasion, Captain Greer had ordered the American ensign 
 set, and at precisely twelve, low meridian, gave the beautiful lu- 
 minary a set-oft" with three hearty cheers. It w^as a fitting fare- 
 well. IIow few, indeed, have ever seen a midnight sun ! 
 
 "J-w^. 17. The gale increases; the sea is white with foam. I 
 have been thinking all day about the loss of the Polaris : it ap- 
 pears to me she could have been saved. The more I think over 
 all the circumstances, the more T believe it to have been a pre- 
 meditated aftair. 
 
 ^^Anff. 18. The gale has abated, leaving us inclosed in thick 
 fog and drizzling rain. Many bergs to be seen, as the fog occa- 
 sionally lifts; then all enshrouded again in the dreary black en- 
 velop. This morning, about 7 30, as I was walking the bridge, 
 
 24 
 
370 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 something white appeared under the bows of the Ti'jrcss. The 
 vessel was going very slowly at the time. I was not long in 
 making out the white object to be a Polar bear. Now Captain 
 Greer, Lieutenant White, and indeed .ill the officers of the Tifjress, 
 were extremely anxious to shoot a Polar bear. As soon as I was 
 certain that it was a bear, and no illusion, I rang the bell to stop, 
 and sent the quartermaster to call the captain and Lieutenant 
 White. I also sent a messenger to the wardroom to inform the 
 other officers. Nobody vvas up as yet, but soon the captain ap- 
 peared, half dressed; then Commagere, the //(^/-aW reporter; next 
 the doctor; and in about five minutes there was at least a dozen 
 rifles cracking away at his bearship. The fog now lifted some, 
 but the bear was as yet untouched, although at least fifty rifle- 
 balls had been fired at him. The captain then ordered all to stop 
 shooting. A boat was lowered for !Mr. White; he get off in it, 
 and after a good long chase succeeded in shooting the bear, in 
 evidence of which we have had roast bear for dinner. 
 
 "This evening we had quite a narrow escape from collision 
 with a berg. T'lere are hundreds of bergs in sight — in fact, there 
 are so many it is impossible to count them, especially as it has 
 been foggy by spells through the day. But this evening, at 7.30, 
 the fog was so tliick, as the sailors sav, ' vou could cut it with a 
 knife,' It was my watch oii deck ; from six to eight it was very 
 dense, and the vessel going about five knots. I was keeping, 
 too, as sharp a lookout as ]io.«sible while walking the bridge. I 
 bad also a man on the top-gallant forecastle station especially to 
 watch closely, with orders to call out quickly should he discover 
 any thing. I was pacing up and down, thinking of home — 
 thoughts of home are all tlie pleasure a sailor has in his lonely 
 watches at sea. Suddenly, through the densest of Mack fogs, I 
 ])erceived a bright streak. I thought at first it was onh' the fog 
 breaking away; but I had little time to reflect. 'Hard a star- 
 board !' I thundered out, in tones so loud and sharp as brought 
 the captain and every body on deck in double-quick time. I 
 had rung the warning cry none too soon, for as the vessel swung 
 off, there, high above our masts — the top of the berg was indeed 
 invisible — but as hi";h as we could see. there loomed this cisan- 
 tic iceberg. We cleared her but by a few yards ; it was a nar- 
 row shave at that. '. 
 
 '■'■Axuj. 19. It is once more clear and pleasant. At 2. I'.M. en- 
 
AT UPEKXAVIK FOR REPAIRS. 371 
 
 tered the harbor of Tessuisak. Mr. Jansen met us just before tlu- 
 vessel arrived at the anchorage. Mr. Jansen, it will be remem- 
 bered, is 'governor' here — governor of three frame houses, and 
 about fifty Esquimaux, and perhai)s the same number of hall- 
 breeds. Mr. Jansen informed Captain Greer, on comimr on board, 
 that nothing had been seen or heard of the two boats containing 
 the P'J'iris survivors. Consequently, Captain Greer, will not an- 
 chor, but, getting a pilot, will at once proceed to Upernavik by 
 way of the inside passage. Governor Jansen also stated that the 
 Juniata had left for Disco. So we shall touch at llpernavik, and 
 then go on to Disco, sending home dispatches by the Jn/tialc. 
 From Disco the Ti<jress will go over to the west side, and seek 
 out the English and Scotch whalers, hoping to get some informa- 
 tion from them of the two boats and their crews. 
 
 ^'A>iij. 20. Dark and dismal. Fog, wind, rain, and snow- 
 squalls; but we arc safely moored in the little harbor of Uper- 
 navik ; anchor and three hawsers out to secure the vessel ; a Ions; 
 beavv swell rolling in from seaward. The weather is lookinii' 
 very bad; the barometer is very low; that, with the thick fog, 
 has induced Captain Greer to stop here two or three days; need- 
 ing, also, this opportunity to overhaul and repair the boilers, 
 which are sadly in need of it. It is evident to me that Budding- 
 ton must have got on board of one of the whale-ships. lie has 
 now been about two months on his southward passage. 
 
 '• Here wo are at Upernavik, which is next to the most northern 
 settlement (Tessuisak) in the civilized world. Here, too, still re- 
 mains good old Governor Rudolph, who, though a European, has 
 spent so many winters in this chill, rough, uncongenial part of 
 the world. There arc but few buildings here: some six wooderi 
 houses, occupied b}- Danes either as dwellings or store-houses. 
 The natives and half-breeds occupy stone or turf huts, and these 
 huts are but about six feet high in the interior. There they all 
 bundle in together — men, women, and children ; here on the 
 lonely shores of Greenland, with scarce a sound to listen to but 
 the crushing and grinding of the 2Tim and ghastly bergs; for in 
 one look seaward hundreds of bergs can be seen from this place, 
 varied only by the beating of the waves against this truly rock- 
 bound coast. Then, too, all through the winter such short days 
 and long nights, and ice everywhere. Yet these people appear 
 happy and contented ; yet they see nothing, and scarcely know 
 
372 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 any thing, of tbe outside world. But they have their own pleas- 
 ures and modes of amusement. They love music and they love 
 dancing, and are made supremely happy by the arrival of a chance 
 ship, like the Juniata or Tlijreas. Then out come the violins, 
 and the girls dressed in their best. Many of them, especially the 
 half-breeds, are quite pretty, and fair as the fairest of our own 
 belles at home. Some have the light hair and blue eyes of the 
 Danes. And ♦heir dress, too, is very picturesque : a pretty little 
 jacket, made, perhaps, of colored calico seal-skin pants prettily 
 trimmed, and, like the jacket, setting tight to the body ; white, 
 red, or blue boots complete the costume, while the hair is tied 
 up with bright - colored ribbons, and a necklace of beads is also 
 worn, if it can be obtained. We have just received an invitation 
 to come on shore this evening to a dance. 
 
 ^^Avg. 21. Clear and pleasant. Last evening the officers had 
 their dance in the old carpenter-shop of kind Dr. Kudolph. The 
 girls were all decked out in their very best, and they are really 
 excellent dancers; and as for waltzing, they would compare fa- 
 vorably with, if they do not excel, our own beautiful girls. In 
 one thing they certainly have the advantage — the freedom of 
 their limbs is not embarrassed with hoops or long trains. 
 
 ^^Ecenhvj. We have again danced the German, all joining — 
 Captain Greer, Executive Officer White, Lieutenant Wilkins, and 
 all the other ofliccrs of the Tigress — and had a very pleasant time, 
 an agreeable break in the monotony of our voyage, and such a 
 lone voj^age, on the very outskirts of the world! Certainly, 
 Greenland is but ' half made up.' 
 
 ^^Aug. 22. It is a dark, lowering day, and cold ; last evening 
 the frost was quite severe. We kept up our dance till midnight, 
 so to-day aching heads and aching limbs are in order. 
 
 ^^Au>/. 28. Cloudy and cool ; light north-west winds. At 2 P.M. 
 we weigh anchor for Disco, the governor firing a salute of three 
 guns on our departure. Our rigging was manned by the crew, 
 who gave three hearty cheers in return. The girls lined the 
 beach, like a fringe, to witness our departure. Poor things ! they 
 seldom see any body except those of their own settlement, and 
 must pass very lonely, but I hope not unhappy, lives. 
 
 "I had an opportunity last evening of looking over the mu- 
 tilated diaries and journals left in the deserted but off Littleton 
 Island. Not one but has the leaves cut out relating to Captain 
 
AT GOUDIIAVN IIAHBUU. 373 
 
 Hall's death ; but in one of them I read, ' CajMin IlaWs jxqycr-^ 
 tliroirn oixrhoard to-daij.'' Xor do any of them contain any ac- 
 count of my separation from the Polaris last October [1871]. It 
 may be that full journals have been carried home. "We shall 
 see. There is one thing which surprises me very much in these 
 records, namely, their selfish and egotistical character. 
 
 "yl»y. 24. We have had wretched weather since leaving Tes- 
 suisak and Upernavik. Last night snow and sleet, and it has 
 continued up to the present hour (5 p.m.). Disco is in sight. 
 We can see the lofty snow-clad mountains higli above the dark 
 vapor which hangs over and surrounds the island. 
 
 ^^Ai(;j. 25. Arrived at Goodhavn Harbor at 2.15 A.M. Here 
 Commander Greer reported the discoveries which had been made 
 to Commander Brpine, of the JvjiiaUt; and the latter subsequent- 
 ly signaled the 'fi<jress to send me on board, Commander Braine 
 wishing to consult me as to whether the Juniata could be service- 
 able in pursuing the search on the west coast. 1 advised that 
 the Jfriiiat't could probably do more good (if the Polaris party 
 had not already been rescued) by remaining at Goodhavn to re- 
 ceive them on their arrival there; and also that the Jiau'ala was 
 not fitted to contend with the ice and rough weather to be ex- 
 pected on the west coast ; but that the Tigress was so fitted, and 
 could cover the whole ground. 
 
 " Left again at twelve, noon, for the west coast. They are all 
 safe enough in some whaler long before this, so we shall go over 
 to the west side among the whaling-fleet, and may very likely 
 bear of their rescue. Shortly after leaving Disco, encountered a 
 severe blow, accompanied by rain. 
 
 "Aug. 26. Good weather this morning; many small patches of 
 ice in sight, but nothing as yet looking like a pack. 
 
 " This evening we have the west coast in sight, about twenty- 
 five miles distant ; many bergs and many streams of ice ; so that 
 we are compelled at times to go very far out of our course to get 
 around them. We are in lat. 67° 40' N, 
 
 ^^Ang. 27. Cloudy, and at times rain ; it has been blowing 
 heavy through the night ; it is a little more moderate to-day, 
 but still very bad weather. We, however, n.ake a smooth sea of 
 it by lying under the lee of the ice, holding the vessel there by 
 steam-power, and waiting for good weather. Our latitude same 
 as yesterday. 
 
374 AK( TIC EXl'EKILXCES. 
 
 ■'^1?/'/. 23. Cloudv, and at tiinei: fofrcrv. Wc have been steam- 
 ing tlirougli the pack all day; but Ca{)tain Greer is naturally very 
 nervous, fearing injury to the vessel, and wishes to get out, so 
 the y'/y/T-ss is headed to the eastward again. 
 
 "^'1(/'/. 29. Kaining and foiitrv, and I must sav about as mean 
 and dirty weather as one could desire. This morning we got the 
 vessel out of the paek. It was my watch, and a disagreeable 
 watch It was — raining, thick fog, and surrounded by ice: three 
 very unpleasant companions these. The way things are worked 
 here will make it almost impossible for us to ever find the whal- 
 ers. Our little 'J'i'jnss was built for ice navigation, but now she 
 is handled as if they were afraid of rubbing the paint off her. 
 
 ".-I'^y, 30. Another stormy night; snow, wind, high sea. Yes- 
 terday evening, just at dark, I succeeded in getting out of the 
 pack, but, once from under the shelter of the friendly ice. met a 
 heavy gale from the south-west; thick fog at times, then again 
 thick snow-squalls; fog again, squalls, pitch darkness, with all 
 the time a heavy sea rutming, made it a very unpleasant night. 
 This morning it is pleasant again ; the sea has gone down ; the 
 weather quite clear. Some ice is seen on our starboard beam. 
 We are now steaming in toward Cape Mercy, the northern cape 
 of Cumberland Gulf, not far from where I sighted the abandoned 
 British ship Resolute m 1855. 
 
 '•'■Aug. 31. We are again in bad weather, the pest of the north- 
 ern regions — fog, and, combined with this, ice, snow, sleet, and 
 a heavy sea; and the vessel is rolling badly, one sea this morn- 
 ing making a clean sweep through the galley, much to the dis- 
 gust of the cook, who was almost submerged under the various 
 compounds he had prepared for breakfast. The ice is scattering, 
 and I hope to-morrow will see the little Tigress safely harbored. 
 There is but little use in keeping under way out here, burning 
 coal, and with no hope whatever of finding the Scotch whalers, 
 as we do not lot^k where we should to find them. 
 
 "*St;;j/. 1. Yesterday and to-day have been about as uncomfort- 
 able as days can be. Last night the gale blew very heavy, with 
 a corresponding sea running. Xow one can get along with a 
 good stiff gale of wind, if it don't blow too hard ; but wind, sea, 
 snow, darkness, icebergs, and, worse still, hummocks and jiieces 
 of floe, with scarcely a possibility of perceiving them, make a 
 very disagreeable and not altogether safe combination. The 
 
•AT HUME.' 
 
 o "" •■ 
 
 force of the wind beat the poa into a white foam, which made it 
 the more diflicult to distinguish ice from the white-caps. The 
 Tigress fouled several pieces, but, fortunately, sustained no dam- 
 age. It is intensely dark to-night, the wind still blowing fresh, 
 and a heavy sea ; but it is far better than last night. Last night 
 one could not see for the blinding snow. To-night, as one of 
 those pleasant varieties which make the spice of life, we are in- 
 dulged with a smart rain. 
 
 '•Spf.2. Another day of tossing, pitching, rolling, tumbling: 
 in fact, one gets screwed and twisted into all imaginable shapes 
 in such vile w^eather. The gale still continues, but with miti- 
 gated fury, accompanied with a shade lighter snow. Our ward- 
 room is a complete wreck; broken chairs, crockery, with such 
 heaps of wet clothing, and dirty rubbisli, as would have a tend- 
 ency to si.ock the nerves of the refined. 
 
 "Cumberland Gulf, Sppl. -i. This seems like home — it is my 
 old whaling-ground, and here we arc, snug and comfortable, in 
 Niountelik Uarbor, so fomiliar to me. We arrived liere this 
 morning. The late gale was very severe, even for this region, 
 and we arc all '-lad to tret into harbor. 
 
 ENOA.MrHE.VT NEAH IVUITCT. 
 
a 70 AlitTIC EXJ'LUIEXCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 A Cliange for the better. — Kei)iiiriiig Damages. — Company in the Gnlf. — Looking 
 for .Scotch Whalers. — Tlie Natives bring Deer-meat to the Ship. — Arctic Hi.ds 
 flying South. — ('a]itain Hall's old I'roteges. — Deniorali/.atiou of the Natives of the 
 west Coast. — Collecting •• Sjiecinieiis. " — 15ad Case of ••Stone Fever."' — '•Time 
 and Tide wait for no Man." — Billys Curiosities. — Captain Tyson meets his late 
 Hc>ciior, Captain Hartlctt. — Mica S])cciilati()n.— Short of Coal. — ITow we lost our 
 Diiuier. — A saltatory ])iniiig-table. — Sight a Scotch Whaler. — Arrival at Ivgi- 
 tut, South Greenhuul. — Meet the Fox, of Arctic i'ame. — Kryolite, Coal, Fish, 
 and another (iale. — Friend Schnider, the fat Dane. — Canaries, I'igeons, etc., do- 
 mesticated here.— Tiie Crew overworked. — A Hurricane. — Antics of the Furni- 
 ture. — Force of Sea-wave.s. 
 
 '"Since arriving bere we have had most splendid weather, 
 calm, clear, and cold. The crew have been continually employ- 
 ed in getting stone from shore for ballast. The engineer.s are 
 very busy repairing boilers. The little iScotch brig Ahrf, Cap- 
 tain Walker, and the American brig Iltlfu F., Captain Palmer, 
 are here. Captain Walker sailed from home last April; has 
 been in the ice over two months, trying to force his way into the 
 gulf. Reports that he met a great deal of ice, heavy gales of 
 wind, and had many narrow escapes. Captain Palmer, of the 
 Il'/len F., had two schooners last fall, but lost one, she breaking 
 out of her winter-quarters in December last, and drifting out into 
 the gulf lie abandoned her, and, with his crew, reached the 
 shore. One man perished, and another was severely frost-bitten, 
 but recovered. One of the Esquimaux, who was hunting on the 
 ice last March, got adrift; and the ice carrying him southward, 
 he has never since been heard from, 
 
 " I know not what we are going to do on leaving here — wheth- 
 er we are going directly home, or north again, trying to find the 
 Scotch whalers. I think they could be found (if we went to the 
 right place) in about five days, and that would end our cruise. 
 
 '■'Sept. 11. Weather extremely bad; gales of wind, snow, and 
 rain. We are now lying with both anchors down — 75 fathoms 
 of chain on one, and 45 on the other. Two vessels have arrived 
 since the 7th inst, the Clara and the Perseverance, both Scotch 
 vessels. An expected American brig, belonging to New Lon- 
 
"BLIND GKOHGK," "BUB, AND "POLLY." 377 
 
 don, has not arrived yet, and fears are entertained concerning 
 her. Some of the Ksquitnaux have got back from hunting, bring- 
 ing a sujiply of deer-meat, for the skins uf whieh the oflicers are 
 ready to trade largely. 
 
 •' Still at work repairing boilers, "We dare not go anywhere, 
 as we have not coal enougii to carry us home, but must depend 
 chiefly on our sails. 
 
 '•iS'pt. 12. Weather good again. The Cldra and the I/'kn F. 
 left this morning for the other side of the gulf. "We are taking 
 in ballast still, and I fear the vessel will be so deep that there 
 will be little comfort in her. I suppose we shall remain here 
 until the captain is sure that news has been received of the Po- 
 laris crew at home, and that will not be later than the 10th of 
 October, as the Scotch ships arrive about that time in Scotland; 
 and this season they have left for home earlier than usual. 
 
 '^ Sept. 18. Dark, dismal, cold day. Ice made last night, and 
 it promises to be an early winter. The Arctic marine birds are 
 already on their way to a more genial climate. It will not be 
 many days before fast ice and the long Arctic night sets in. 
 Several boats' crews of Esquimaux arrived from hunting last 
 evening, bringing considerable deer-meat. They cany most of 
 it to the Scotch vessels, as there they can get red rum in trade 
 for meat and skins. 
 
 "Here is 'Blind George,' 'Bob,' and 'Polly,' who are all his- 
 torically embalmed in Captain Hall's book which describes his 
 Frobisher Strait expedition. Bob's course is nearly run. 1 
 found him lying on his back, in dirt and filth, wasted to a skel- 
 eton. Polly — sore-eyed Polly — is as talkative as ever, and looks 
 as young as she did twelve years ago ; she looked sixty then, and 
 she looks the same now. Many have died. Within the last 
 three years, as near as I can tell, there appears to have been 
 about three deaths among these natives to every two births; so 
 at this rate the Esquimaux will soon be extinct in this region. 
 The great mortality among the Esquimaux is caused, I think, 
 by contact with the whites. They introduced rum, tobacco, and 
 disease among these poor natives, who have no medicines or 
 medical practice to stop the spread of the evil ; so they transmit 
 it all unmitigated from one to another. There are no Christian 
 missionaries here. The country is too poor to support them, 
 I have often wondered how it was that the Christian world has 
 
378 AIUTIC EXPKUIKNCKS. 
 
 rio completely ignored ilie existence of thc?e tribes on the west 
 coast of Davis Strait. 
 
 "As wo are doing nothing, the officers spend most of their 
 time in collecting specimens. There are many garnets to be 
 found — very imperfect, however; and quartz of two or three 
 kinds: rose and white arc very plentiful. Some of the oflicers 
 claim to have found stones of some value, but I have not seen 
 any such. Mica is here in abundance, and its collection could, I 
 believe, be made to pay. One of our company got the 'stone 
 fever' bad this morning. Taking chisel and hammer, and a 
 good-sized canvas bag, in which to put the precious specimens, 
 he started off to make his fortune. This evening, just at dark. 
 he returned. The officer of the deck heard his hail, but the 
 shore-going boat was at that time away, some of the otHeers hav- 
 ing gone with her, about half a mile to the north, to some of the 
 natives' huts trading. No other boat was allowed to be lowered: 
 so Billy had to wait until it returned. lie sat himself down on a 
 rock, which happened to be on an extensive shoal. lie was on 
 the outer edge of it, looking wistfully toward the Ti'jrcss, and as 
 the inside of the shoal was lower than the off shore, and the tide 
 was setting in, he was, without knowing it, very soon surrounded 
 by water. Suddenly discovering that he was on an improvised 
 island of somewhat limited extent, he yelled most lustily for re- 
 lief, and we finally got a boat out to him. But poor Billy was 
 the most frightened man I have seen for many a day. 
 
 "After supper, Billy, who had by this time recovered his spir- 
 its, was showing his beautiful specimens, and among them he 
 handed around what he called a fossil; but the laugh was against 
 him, and his countenance blank with surprise, when an Arctic ex- 
 pert informed him, and that truly, that it was a fine specimen of 
 canine pxuviaj. 
 
 '■^ Sept. 14. Quite pleasant to-day, and at times calm. The New- 
 foundland steamer Hector arrived this morning from the head of 
 the gulf. Her master was Captain Bartlett, the good old man 
 who picked me off the ice on the last day of April. I was sorry 
 to learn that he came up here expressly to seine white grampus, 
 for it has proved a failure, and Captain Bartlett will consequent- 
 ly be a loser. I sincerely hope that a good and kind Providence 
 will take care of him to the end of his days. 
 
 "At 10.30 A.M. all bands were mustered for inspection; at 11, 
 divine service. So we spend our Sundays. 
 
SKillTIXG A SCOTCH WIIALIIR. 37J« 
 
 "A'/'/. ir». We are still engaged taking in ballast. Last night 
 considerable snow lell ; it is not snowing tliis morning, but there 
 is plenty of ice. Thiek icicles are banging from the gunwales of 
 the boats. 
 
 "The olTicers who are scientifically inclined are still making 
 their daily excursions on shore, but, remembering the fate of 
 Billy, arc very careful of the returning tides. That sufleiing in- 
 dividual felt so aggrieved by his enforced stay upon his little 
 island, that he made an official report, in the nature of a com- 
 plaint against the officer of the deck (I happened to be that un- 
 fortunate); but he has recovered his temper since then, and now 
 wishes to go into the mica business with me, he having discover- 
 ed great quantities on shore. 
 
 '■'■ Si'pt. 20. Fog, rain, and wind. Nothing of consequence has 
 occurred since the 15th. On the 16th we got under way, Captain 
 Greer being determined to still search for the English whalers. 
 He will try to get one hundred or one hundred and fifty tons of 
 coal at Ivgitut, on the coast of Greenland, which we are now 
 approaching. There is considerable ice and very bad weather; 
 our little Ti<irt^s still rolling and pitching, notwithstanding the 
 quantity of ballast we have taken in. 
 
 '■'■Sept. 21. Another day of rolling, pitching, and gyrating. 
 We are not the most comfortably situated of human beings just 
 at this moment. Our dining-table, with all the dinner, has just 
 turned topsy-turvy, smashing many of the dishes, and utterly de- 
 stroying most of the food. 
 
 "This morninir, about ten o'clock, we siohted a vessel ; we are 
 lyitjg to on the starboard tack under the fore and aft sails head- 
 ing north. The vessel, which I believe to be a Scotch whaler, is 
 directly to leeward. Report is made to Captain Greer of the 
 fact, but no notice is taken of it or the vessel. I suppose we 
 shall ma.._ a show of staying three or four days longer, and then 
 for home. 
 
 ''■Sept. 29. Here we are safely harbored at Ivgitut, South 
 Greenland, the famous place for kryolite. We arrived here on 
 the 27th. There is an English bark and a Danish barkentine in. 
 Here, also, is the celebrated little steamer Fox which Lady Frank- 
 lin sent out, under command of Captain M'Clintock, in search of 
 her husband. 
 
 " There is abundance of coal here, so that can no longer be an 
 
o«0 
 
 xUlCTIC KXPERIENCES. 
 
 KUYOI.ITE MINE. 
 
 excuse. We have here also an opportunity to get some fresh fish. 
 Cod are quite plentiful, and also another very large fish called 
 by the people here 'cat-fish ;' it is excellent eating, and I should 
 think some of them would weigh a hundred pounds or more. 
 
 " Oct. 3. A splendid day ; the land, or rather the mountains, 
 have their white winter coats on. The day before yesterday we 
 had one of the most severe gales we have experienced since leav- 
 inir home. Although in harbor, our situation was most danc^er- 
 
 CO/ o 
 
 ous, as the anchorage is so very poor. We parted our shore 
 moorings, and expected every moment to part from our port- 
 anchor, the only one then holding the vessel, except one little 
 kedge. Finally we succeeded, in the very teeth of the gale, in 
 carrying two hawsers ashore, one eight inches and the other six 
 inches in circumference. Making these fiist, we felt much more 
 secure. The gale abated toward evening, but settled down into 
 heavy rain, with some little sleet, and snow later in the night. 
 
 " The next morning proved fair, and we resamed our coaling. 
 In fact we never stopped work, even during the storm ; but the 
 
CANARIES, PIGEONS, ETC. 381 
 
 crew were kept at work exposed during the whole of the gale. 
 Never in my life have I seen men worked so hard, and that con- 
 tinuously. The officers are worked hard too, but they bear it 
 better than the men. 
 
 "Speaking of Ivgitut, the land of kryolite, we have here quite 
 a company of Danes. There is, first, the manager of the scien- 
 tific department, and the old fat Schnider, who looks more like 
 two barrels of beer than one ; there are also the doctor and 
 .several other official.^, and about a hundred workmen. Fat 
 Schnider I had the pleasure of meeting at Fiscanues two years 
 ago, when on the Pvh(ri>>, outward-bound. lie is the hugest mon- 
 ster in bulk I ever saw. but a jr;!ly good fellow, grotesque withal, 
 especially when laughing, as he then presents a prodigious cavity 
 quite devoid of teeth. Dentists do not abound in these regions. 
 
 '^Satiin/<tf/, Off. 4. We are off. All the coal is on board — one 
 hundred and ninety tons in all. Vv'e are now, at 2 P.M., heaving 
 up our anchor, and have been engaged at it the last three hours. 
 The water being forty fathoms deep, and our cable getting foul 
 of the rocks, caused a deal of trouble. So we leave the kind and 
 hospitable Danes of Ivgitut. May they always be happy, for 
 they have been most affable and genial, and the interchange of 
 visits with them has enabled us to pass the time quite agreeably. 
 
 " Here, in Greenland, one would not expect to see the canary, 
 the pigeon, and our common duck, rabbits, goats, and hogs do- 
 mesticated; yet all these birds and mammals not only exist, but 
 thrive here, in lat. 61° 10' N. 
 
 "The sea and fiords in this vicinitv, thousrh full of floating ice. 
 never freeze over, even in the coldest days of winter. Indeed, 
 it is seldom below zero here. 
 
 " As we are going out, the little steamer Fox is towing in the 
 bark BrilUant. She is after a load of krvolite. And so farewell 
 to the good people in the mountain homes of Ivgitut. 
 
 " Oct. 6. Yesterday we had what might be called a moderate 
 gale ; in face, we met it on the evening of the 4th on coming out 
 of harbor. The wind was north-west, wnth hail, snow, and at 
 times rain. This morning the weather is somewhat better. The 
 sea has gone down, and we have had a change of wind to the 
 .south-east. Going along finely now, about seven knots an hour, 
 riflfht in the track of the English whalers on their homeward- 
 bound passage. 
 
382 ARCTIC EXl'KKIENCKS. 
 
 *""\Ve liavc many of the crew down sick, on account of tlicii' 
 late liarJ work and exposure. The fact of the matter is, the 
 men are work<>.d to death. 
 
 " Ovt. 7. Last night proved one of the most disagreeable of the 
 whole vovasie so far. Toward evening the wind increased to a 
 gale, accompanied by squalls of snow. Shortened sail, and hove 
 the vessel to on the starboard tack. TLr(>".gh the night the gale 
 increased to a hurricane; the sea was very heavy, breaking over 
 our little bark, and keeping her decks continually flooded with 
 water. Xot only the deck but the ward and engine rooms were 
 flooded. The fire-room took so much water, that there was dan- 
 ger of the fires being put out; but, fortunately, nothing more 
 .serious occurred than the carrying away of the lower bobstay to 
 the bowsprit, and every body getting tlioroughly soaked. About 
 7 A.M. the gale abated, and the wind hauled to the westward some 
 four points; its former course was south-ea.st. Wearing, ship; we 
 arc now standing ofl' shore, as we are not. more than fifteen miles 
 Irom the Greenland coast. The weather is not })leasant yet; a 
 heavy sea is running, but not so bad as last night. It is impos- 
 sible as yet, however, to get an\- thing to eat. Tables think noth- 
 ing of turning over; the sea gay ly indulges in the pastime of ex- 
 tinguishing the galley-fires, keeping the cook and steward in a 
 chronic state of exasperation ; and such was the power of the seas 
 which broke over us that even the anvil and iron covers to the 
 eoal-bunkers — the latter weighing about seventy pounds and the 
 former two hundred — were found floating around the deck, di'iv- 
 cn hither and thither by the force of the descending waves. Lat, 
 (J3° 15' X., long. 52' 4l"' W. 
 
LiiELESS CKUI81XG. 3S3 
 
 CriAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 Tlie Gale abates. — Consultation as to {'oiirse.— Useless Cruising. — Start for Ilome. 
 — More bad Weather. — Lund-birds blown out to Sea. — Heniinisi'ences of tlie lee-tioe 
 Drift. — A narrow Kseajie. — A black Fog. — Interviewing u Hawk at ilie .Mast- 
 head. — Arrive at St. .Johns. — Xews of the J'ulnris I'arty. — Heturn to IJrooklyn. — 
 \Vhat the Tii/rfss aeconiiilisl.ed. — Lessons in Arctic Navigation. — Bravery of the 
 t)tlicers. — A stormy but agreeable Cruise. 
 
 " Wkll, the gale is over. Ail \Yere badly frightened, but. 
 sailor- like, tbey will soon forget it. Ca{)tain Greer thinks of 
 starting for home as soon as the wind comes from a favorable 
 quarter; he consulted me about it, and my advice was to j)roceed 
 lionie. Buddington Mid his party are safe enough on board some 
 whaler, if not long ago in a British port. They may even be 
 home bv this time. At St. Johns we shall be sure to hear of 
 them. 
 
 '■ Oct. 8. The weather is looking bad again : another south-east 
 s^ale, I fear. We have been standins; offshore from the Green- 
 land coast all yesterday and all night; the sea from the westward 
 beino; so heavv, we made but little progress — about four knots an 
 iiour. The gale of the 6tli and 7tli was south-east, but as soon 
 as the wind abated, a long heavy swell came from the southward 
 this morning. The captain ordered the vessel's head to be kept 
 north-east again, lie is still unsettled in his purpose what to do. 
 Well, I care but little; but I know it is useless cruising here 
 longer — only a wa.ste of time and money, besides destroying the 
 crew. They have been worked hard : many are now sick. The 
 few that are well are busy to-day securing every thing for the 
 next oale. * ' 
 
 " On breaking out to-day we find many of our stores damaged, 
 from the water finding its wav down the hatches in the late trale. 
 By observation at noon, lat. 63" 29' N., long. 53° o2' W. 
 
 "6 P.M. Ilave started for home; the long-looked-for time has 
 arrived. Captain Greer, after some little conversation with me, 
 has finally concluded to start for home, stopping at St. Johns, 
 Newfoundland, where I think he will hear of the Polaris sur- 
 
384 AllCTir EXPERIKNCES. 
 
 vivors. It is my opinion tbey are on, or near, the shores of bon- 
 7iie Scotland ero this. 
 
 '■'■Oct. 9. Blowing strong from the north-west. Sailing and 
 steaming eight and nine knots an hour. Last night spoke the 
 Seotch brig Clam, from Cumberland Gulf, homeward-bound. 
 
 "Od. 10. Cloudy, gloomy-looking day, but the wind is light. 
 and the sea quite smooth, so we take some little comfort; but it 
 is quite cold. Last night snow and hail squalls. Lat. at noon 
 58° 48' — about six hundred miles from St. Johns. 
 
 "Oct. 11. It is blowins? fresh to-dav from the eastward: con- 
 siderable sea running; otherwise it is quite pleasant. The sun 
 is shining brightly, the weather quite warm, and the air dry. 
 Generally the south-east winds arc cold, wet, and very disagree- 
 able ; this is an exception, so flir. Lat. 56° 39' at 8 a.m. 
 
 "Our barometer is foiling quite fast; and, as I sit writing in 
 the wardroom, I hear the quartermaster, who lias just observed 
 it, say to the officer of the deck, ' So we can look for more wind, 
 and perhaps rain.' "Well, we certainly have had very bad weath- 
 er, and abundance of it, this cruise. All the officers appear heart- 
 ily tired of the Arctic regions ; nor is it strange: this coun*;ry is 
 not very inviting to spend one's time in, unless there is a deliiiite 
 object to be accomplished, and a prospect of success. 
 
 "Oct. 12. The morninsf is beautiful; the sun rose briirht and 
 clear, and with that peculiar color which denoles fair weather, 
 and is also a forerunner of a southerly wnnd. 
 
 "The Sunday-morning muster of all the crew in clean blue 
 shirts and the morning service is over. We arc now (noon) in 
 lat. 55° 19' N., and about ninety miles to the eastward of the 
 Labrador coast, ^faiiy little land- birds visit us daily. Poor 
 thinirs, thev get blown ^)li' shore, and are clad enouch to find a 
 resting-place. Some alight on the deck, but only to die; for 
 they are overexhausted by their long tlight and struggle with 
 the winds. ,.- 
 
 "And here /am, traveling over the route — part of it — of my 
 long and terrible drift, but under what diffi^rent circumstances! 
 Then I was starving with hunger and perishing with cold; now 
 I am on a good staunch steamer instead of a bit of ice, with 
 plenty to eat and drink, and, when tired, a decent place to sleep. 
 The misery of that fearful drift will haunt me so long as memory 
 endures. 
 
A BLACK FOG. 3^5 
 
 •'Oct. IG. Last evening, just before 'eight bells,' or eight by 
 the clock, a heavy, dense black fog came sweeping down from 
 the S.S.W. Standing on the quarter-deck, 1 could scarcely see 
 the head of the steamer. It continued, thick as ever, until the 
 niidniiiht watch. 
 
 •' Mr. Cliiprnan, my assistant ice-pilot, had a very narrow es- 
 cape from colliding with a large berg. He just saw it in time to 
 clear it. These floating ice-hills are very dangerous to naviga- 
 tion. Many a good ship has gone down and never been heard 
 from ; but, could these icebergs speak, they might 'a tale unfold ' 
 which would solve the mystery. 
 
 " The night and the day have been very unpleasant ; it has 
 rained violently, and we have been going very slow — two or three 
 knots, and some of the time not more than one. Even a slight 
 head-sea and head-wind entirely destroys the steaming qualities 
 of the Tigress. 
 
 " Oct. 14. The fog, after enveloping us in worse than the black- 
 ness of night for upward of thirty-four hours, has cleared up with 
 a westerly breeze. Several large bergs are in sight. The sea is 
 still long and heavy, causing our little vessel to roll and pitch 
 very badly. We have sail up now, and are making good way, 
 God speed her ! I am tired, and want rest. 
 
 •'6 P.M. The wind is increasinGr, and it ascain looks like rain. 
 We certainly get our share of bad weather. Yesterday a little 
 land-bird came on board, and, as he has been treated kindly, con- 
 tinues to stay ; he is now so tame one can pick him up with the 
 hand. A large hawk, wanting a rest, lighted on our rigging this 
 afternoon. One of the sailors, thinking to capture it, went aloft 
 for the purpose. On getting near the bird, it turned and looked 
 at the man, as much as to say, ' Who are you, and what do you 
 want?' In consequence of this uncanny and unexpected behav- 
 ior of his hawkship, the sailor hesitated to touch him, and did 
 not venture to put bis hand on him, although his messmates from 
 the deck kept calling out to 'catch him, catch him !' There aloft 
 they eyed each other. The bird looked at the man, and the man 
 looked at the bird, and for some time neither moved. At last 
 the hawk concluded he had enough of that sort of visual inter- 
 viewing, and desiring no better acquaintance with the strange 
 sort of animal that continued to stare at him in a superstitious, 
 frightened sort of way, took wing and made his escape. Com- 
 
 25 
 
386 AUCTIC EXrilHIKNCKS. 
 
 ing down empty-liandod, iIr' man got well lauglicd at for iiis 
 failure. 
 
 "Our latiiud(» at noon to-day is 52° 49' N. — a little ov'cr three 
 hundred miles from St. Johns, and twelve miles south of wheie I 
 was picked up by this same Tojrcss on the last day of April, be- 
 tween five and six months ago. 
 
 '■'■Oct.ib. We have it. It eommeneed to rain this morning; 
 but we have not the usual aecompanying gale of wind which 
 has hitherto added discomfort to every fall of rain or snow. 
 
 "Or/. 16. This rnorninijf, at 4 a.m., siohted Buena Vista light, 
 wind blowing fresh from the north. With wind and steam-jiow- 
 er the Tvirci<x is making upward of eight knots an hour. At six- 
 sighted Baeelhoe light, thirty -eight miles fi'om St. Johns. So. 
 .should the wind not fail, we shall reach there this afternoon 
 about three or four o'clock. I have been quite sanguine all the 
 wav on our homeward vovage that on our arrival at St. Johns we 
 should hear from the Polaris crew from the w\'vy of Scotland. 1 
 have been in talking to Ca{>tain Greer about it, and have express- 
 ed very plainly my opinion that we shall certainly hear from the 
 Polaris party at St. Johns. lie does not share my contidence in 
 the safety of the /*o/((/7.*! party ; but he soon will. 
 
 "3.15 I'.M. Made St. Johns llaibor. The first words which 
 the pilot uttered were, ' The Polaris party are safe.' A look of 
 intense relief passed over Commander Greer's countenance, and 
 questions and replies soon made ns acquainted with the general 
 outline of the story of the relief of l^nddington and his party. 
 It had all happened just as I expected, with the difference that 
 they had got to Scotland even earlier than 1 had supposed. Our 
 cruise is now ended, and ' homeward-bound ' is the word. We 
 shall s*^op only long enough to make necessary repairs, and then 
 sail for Brooklyn Navy Yard. 
 
 " Sunda)/, Xov. 9. Arrived at the Brooklyn Navy Yard this 
 morning; and thus ends our cruise. Successful only in part, be- 
 cause success was rendered impossible by the lateness of the sea- 
 son when the Tigress sailed, Cajitain Buddington's party having 
 been picked up by the Ravcnscraig three weeks before the Tigress 
 was ready for sea. But the voyage was not eventless or useless : 
 the discoveries made at Littleton Island, Life-boat Cove, on shore, 
 at the winter-quarters of the survivors of the Polaris, and the infor- 
 mation gained from the natives as to the premature abandonment 
 
A STOKMY IJIJT AGUKKAHI,!-: ClU'ISE. 387 
 
 of tluit vessel, all were needful to elucidate doubtful points in the 
 history of the Pulnris expedition; as also in determining the to- 
 pography of the coast, and the correctness of observations made 
 in winter antl darkness bv the liirht and eertaintv of the summer's 
 sun. 
 
 "It has also given an opportunity to many worthy ofiicers of 
 the Unitetl States Navy to sec something of Arctic service, to 
 which some of them may again be called ; for though our voy- 
 age was brief as to the time occupied, and was favored as to the 
 season of the year, yet it proved exceptionally stormy, and was 
 well calculated to test the courage and endurance of ofticers as 
 well as the crew ; and it is one of the pleasantest duties of my 
 life to here record the perfect harmony and good-fellowship which 
 prevailed, the courage, manliness, and endurance exhibited; and 
 it is a satisfaction to feel that, though Providence had forestall- 
 ed the chief object of our vovas^e, there was not an officer on 
 board who was not ready and willing to winter in the Arctic re- 
 gions had there been the shadow of a reason for so doins;. Nor 
 would Captain Greer have turned his vessel's head to the south- 
 ward had I not positively assured him that, from my experience 
 in those regions, the search beyond a certain date was absolutely 
 useless. 
 
 " I shall always remember with pleasure and satisfaction the 
 brief period of my association with the commander and ofiicers 
 of the United States steamship Tigress^ on her searching cruise.'' 
 
 * Tlic Tiyress was subseciueiitly repurchased for the sealing business by Jfessrs. 
 Harvey & Co., of St. Johns, Xewfoinulland. On the 2d of April, of the present year 
 0874), as the steamer was working through the ice in the prosecution of her usual 
 occupation, an explosion occurred, which instantly killed ten of her crew — eleven 
 others being so badly injured that they died the next day. Captain Bartlett fortu- 
 nately esc!i]ied unhurt. The vcsel was badly damaged. 
 
a«J5 AKtTlC £X^EK1E^X•ES. 
 
 CUAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 TirEORY OF NORTH POLAR CL'RRKXTS. 
 
 The llydrograiiliy vi' iSmith Sound. — The Currents forlnd the Tlieory of uti ••Open 
 Poliir Sea." — Movements of the Ice. — A northern Areliipehiyo a reasoiiulile Sup- 
 position. — Velocity of ("lu'rent aloiii^ the east and west ('onsets. — No Current in 
 the Middle. — K.xperience of the Polaris. — Ahsence of large Bergs in Smith Sound. 
 —Open nearly all Winter. — Radiant Heat preserved by Cloud Strata. — Detleetion 
 of the Current at Cape York. — Roheson Channel des'jrilied. — Lund seen from the 
 Mast-head both east and west — Coast-line beyond Cape Union. — Two Headland> 
 to the east-north-east of Mv\ ulse Harbor. — Absence of Snow on Coast of Xortli 
 Greeidand above Humboldt (ilacier. — Elevated I'lateaus in the Interior. — The 
 Land around Polaris Hay. — Clam-shells at an Elevation of two thousand Feet. — 
 Variegated but odorless Flora. — Animal Life. — Insects. — Skeletons of Musk-cattle. 
 
 In describing the hydrography of Smith Sound I free myself 
 entirely of the geographer?!, chart -makers, and romancers, and 
 relate only what 1 observed with my own eyes. 
 
 Through the fall and winter of 1871-72 I noticed, while on 
 the ice in the mouth of Newman Bay, when on my boat-expedi- 
 tion, that the current through Eobeson Channel was about one 
 mile an hour; thi.*;, however, was very much accelerated by the 
 freshets of the spring and summer. I saw ice drifting at the rate 
 of four miles an hour, driven along by the heavy north-east gales 
 supplementing the natural velocity of the current. 
 
 I do not think there is enough current in Robeson Channel to 
 warrant the theory of an open Polar Sea. Neither such a sea. 
 nor a portion of such a sea, could empty itself through such a 
 narrow channel as Robeson. Any large sea to the northward 
 coursing through such a contracted passage would cause such a 
 powerful current as to make it unsafe for navigation by any but 
 the most powerful steamers, yet the Polaris overcame it without 
 difficulty. 
 
 I carefully watched the movements of the ice during the win- 
 ter, and in fact all the time from my first entering Smith Sound, 
 and I became fully convinced that there was no Polar Sea 
 through or beyond Robeson Channel. I believe the space north- 
 ward of that to be occupied by an archipelago, for, as I said be- 
 
ABSKXCE OF F.AKCK I( KHKKGS. 3^t» 
 
 lore, tl.o current, uninfliicncecl by winds or fresliots, is but about 
 one knot an hour; and at that rate the current continues througii 
 Robeson Channel, Polaris Bay, and Kennedy Channel, the cur- 
 rent setting uniformly from the north. This state of the current 
 I observed on coming southward in August, 1872. But on en- 
 tering Smith Sound, I found little or no current in the middle of 
 the sound ; but on the mst s/inri\ on my passage up, I observed 
 considerable current, which convinced me that constantly setting 
 from the north, after entering Smith Sound, it diverged toward the 
 shores, to both the east and west sides. This view was confirmed 
 on the Polaris getting beset in the ice in the vicinity of Cape 
 Frazier, about twentv-five miles to the east-north-east. Our drift 
 averaged from the first from one to four miles daily, and nearly 
 due south — a very little easterly-. 
 
 On approaching the cast coast in the vicinity of Rensselaer 
 Harbor — Kane's winter-quarters — which we drifted by at about 
 five miles from shore, our progress was more rapid, but at that 
 time the wind was verv stron" from the north, which jrreatlv ac- 
 ceiorated our drift, the fall gales having set in. But even then 
 I detected a stronger current near the shore than in the middle 
 of the sound. 
 
 Another point which attracted my attention, and interested me 
 greatly, was the total absence of large icebergs in Smith Sound, 
 and from thence as far north as 82° 16' the bergs were verv few 
 and very small, while in Baffin and ^rdville bays, and all along 
 the shores of North Greenland, huge bergs abound, especially be- 
 tween Disco and Kane's winter-quarters. But north of that the 
 ice formations should be called hummocks, rather than bergs. 
 
 Smith Sound is open nearly all winter, seldom closing until 
 Februarv or March. T know it to be so by the heavv north and 
 north-cast gales which prevail all winter. They blow with in- 
 describable fury; and I have seen Robeson Channel, Polaris Bay, 
 and as far as the eye could reach, north and south, with the ice 
 cleaned out from shore to shore during the months of November. 
 December, January, and February. In March we had a long 
 spell of quiet weather, and very cold; then the ice formed rapid- 
 ly. In the absence of the sun the weather was chiefly cloudy. 
 In fact, I never saw so much cloudy weather, nor so many gales 
 of wind in any previous winter. 
 
 When the sun was absent the temperature was usually more 
 
yyu AH( TIC KXI'KKIKXCKS. 
 
 moderate than wlicii it slioiic brightly. It was not s^ low bv 
 many degrees as I have found it twenty degrees south of Polaris 
 Bay — the thermometer often above zero, seldom 15° below. On 
 the return of the sun, in Maich and April it was very cold, the 
 lowest we experienced reaching to 08^ below zero, with very 
 little wind during those months. The fact ap[)ears to be that a 
 dense strata of cloud over the land intercepts and retains the ra- 
 diant heat of the earth; which, when the clouds are removed, 
 readily escapes into the upper atmosphere and is lost, the direct 
 rays of the sun not compensating in warmth for this cooling of 
 the earth by radiation. 
 
 After my separation from the Pohris, 1 found that, in the vi- 
 cinity of Cajie York, the current suddeidy dellects to the south- 
 west, and continues south-west down liaflin and ^lelville bays, 
 Davis Strait, and so along the coast of Labrador. 1 have other 
 reasons ft:»r thinking that Kobeson Channel does not lead to a 
 Polar sea. When the Polaris, under the command of Captain 
 Hall, penetrated these icy solitudes to hit. 82" 16' N. — but four 
 iiundred and sixty-four miles from the geographical pole — I was 
 much of the time at the mast-head, looking out for whatever was 
 to be seen, and I certainly saw plenty of water to the north. 
 Robeson Channel was at that time much obstructed, even block- 
 ed, with ice, but beyond it there was free water; and had we 
 got througli the channel, we should have been clear of ice for a 
 long distance. But I am sure that on the west side, above what 
 is called "Giinnell Land,"' far north of Hayes's Cape Union, there 
 is land; for I could trace the coast leading north as Axr as the 
 eye, with the assistance of a spy-glass, could see. 
 
 This coast-line north of Cape Union is to the westward of 
 the cape, but runs N. or N.N.E. ; and I think that between the 
 Cape Union of Hayes's and the land seen beyond to the west- 
 ward there is another strait or sound. On the east side there 
 was a dark, heavy bank, denoting water in that direction; and 
 [ am inclined to thiidv that tlu; land trends to the eastward at 
 about 82^ 20' or 25'; but the ajipearance may indicate only a 
 deep circuit or bay, as I am quite sure that from the mast-head 
 when we were farthest north I saw two headlands to the north 
 and east. However, as we never attainea the same latitude 
 again, probably those who saw only the masses of wide-spread- 
 ing water before them will still cling to the theory of an open 
 
AHSKNt'E OF SNOW. ijyi 
 
 l*oliir sen; but I have llic evidence of my eyes, long trained to 
 observation in the Aretic re<nons, to the eontnirv. 
 
 I liiivc seen u pubhe statement by one of oiii- number (^[r. 
 Chester), that op Captain llalTs hist sledge-expedition, Mr. C. 
 being one of liie l>artv, he went north of Newman Ihiy, up to 
 Hepulse Harbor; but Ca{)tain Hall, on his return, told me that 
 they went no farther than Cape Brevoort, in hit. 82^ 1' N., long. 
 01° 20' W. ; and from there his latest dispatch — in it misprinted 
 S2° 3' — was dated. .loe, the Esquimau, also accompanied Cap- 
 tain Hall, and when he, with ^Ir. Meyers and myself, were off 
 hunting and taking observations, .Joa pointed out the place where 
 HalTs party had stoppetl the fall before. Mr. C. must, thereibre, 
 be mistaken in thinking he went to Kepulse Harbor, or that 
 the land terminated just above there. It is not so. The land 
 certaiidy trends to the eastward a little north-east of Kepulse 
 Harbor; but it /■>■ again to be seen trending nurth. 
 
 The absence of snow along the entire coast of North Green- 
 land is worthv of remark; while as far north as Humboldt Gla- 
 cier one can see the snow and crlacier clad mountains, standin*; 
 but little back of the sea-coast, some, indeed, approaching close- 
 ly to the coast; but they are chiefly in the interior — the icebergs 
 Hnding their way to the sea by the many glacier-fed fiords with 
 which the coast of Greenland abounds. These fiords have proba- 
 bly been formed by ancient, and some by extinct, glaciers. 
 
 On getting north of Humboldt Glacier, I was astonished at 
 the entire absence of snow on both sides of the strait. The. land 
 looked dried up; even the rav" as I found on landing at Po- 
 laris Bay, had exhausted themselves, showing plainly that the 
 summer had been very warm. The coast is hiuh and rumored, 
 com})oscd principally of limestone and slate-rock; toward the in- 
 terior is aji elevated plateau, level and firm under foot, so that 
 traveling is quite eas\-. But these elevated plains, or plateaus, 
 are cut through in many places by ravines or water- courses. 
 The soil is a light clay, which absorbs the moisture very fast. 
 
 The whole land ai-ound Polaris Bay, and above and beyond, 
 both the phxins and the highest mountains, have at some remote 
 [>eriod been an ocean-bed ; for the entire land is covered with 
 marine fossils. I found three fossilized sea-snails, one on the top 
 of a mountain, near our winter-quarters; and at the height of 
 two thousand feet the clam-shells were so thickly scattered that 
 
392 ARCTIC EXrKKIENC'KS. 
 
 one could not put lii.s foot down without crushing them. Even 
 some of the j)onds are salt, tliougli fur away from the sea. 
 
 The flora found at Thank (rod Harbor, Newman Bay, and 
 vicinity I can not chissify, not having preserved any ; but tliere 
 were many species, highly variegated, and of most beautiful col- 
 ors, but odorless. They grow in small patches or clumps, and in 
 many spots these groups look like little fairy gardens, and are in 
 pleasing contrast to the generally rugged scenery of the country. 
 In taking up a moss-like substance from a fresh-water pool, and 
 bringing a microscope to bear on it, the most beautiful vegetation 
 was desciied. Not only were the forms most elegant and grace- 
 ful, but the colors were as brilliant as tropical flower.s. 
 
 In the farthest north to which the Polaris reached birds of va- 
 rious kinds abound. There are brent-geese, eider-ducks, ivory 
 and burgomaster gulls, ptarmigan, plover, mollemokes, and sev- 
 eral others which I had not an opj)ortunity to examine. In early 
 summer these birds are seen flying to the north-east. So I am 
 convinced there is a continuation of the land in that direction, as 
 they go there to breed; and in the fall they go southward again. 
 
 Of animals I saw the white hare and the little lemmimr, the 
 heavy musk-cattle, and the Polar bear, with his usual follower, 
 the white fox. Seals were found as far north as we went. The 
 fauna of the Arctic regions plainly shows that the vicinity of 
 the Pole can not be destitute of land, nor without some sort of 
 vegetation which will sustain animal life. 
 
 T^ie insects I discovered were large blue-flies, and a smaller 
 species very similar to our common house-fly. There were also 
 butterflies, some quite brilliant, and of course caterpillars. Bees, 
 mosquitoes, and spiders were also seen. On the plain abreast of 
 the ship there were many skeletons of musk-oxen, killed by the 
 Esquimaux who formerly inhabited these regions. 
 
SMITH iSUlNl) TIIK TliUE "GATE-WAY TU TIIK I'OLE.' 39;-, 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 How to reach the North Pole. —Smith Sound the tnio Gntevway. — This course of- 
 fers the AltLMtiiitive of Land Travel. — I'lenty of (Janie in Summer. — April und 
 May t!ie .Months for Sl('tlj;ii)g. — Proper Model of Vessel's Hull. — Twenty - live 
 Men enough. — A Tender nccessiiry. — A De'jiot at I'ort Foulke with a detail of 
 Men. — Ire at Rensselaer Harbor. — Avoid Pack-iee in Smith Sound. — (Jo direci 
 for west Coast. — Form Cu'ltcs at intervals of lifiy Miles. — Deposit Reserve Uouts. 
 — Style of Traveling-slciijfe. — Native preferred. — Suleeling Dogs. — Keeji them well 
 fed. — Keep Stores on Deck. — Winter as far north as the Ship can ge^ — How to 
 gt,t out of a Trap. — Provision a Floe, and trust to the Cinrent. — Take your Poats 
 along. — l{ei)Ienish a', Curhes. — Two Months from a liigii Latitude sufficient. — It 
 will yet be done. 
 
 It is not to be snppo.^ed that the search for the pole terminate.^ 
 with the loss of the Polaris and the death of her commander ; and 
 as I have given considerable thought to the subject, I will here 
 make some suggestions in regard to the furnishing and equip 
 ment of any future expedition. 
 
 There is no doubt in my mind that Smith Sound is the true 
 •'gate-way to the pole," if foi no other reason, because there is 
 land to operate on. To the Spitzbergen route is the fatal objec- 
 tion of ice-beset seas, without the choice of land to resort to in 
 case of need ; but the Arctic explorer by Smith Sound can at 
 least avoid the experience of Parry, in his journey on the ice in 
 the eastern Arctic seas north of Spitzbergen, in which he was 
 carried south by the ice faster than he traveled north with his 
 sledges. 
 
 Another advantage of the Smith Sound route is the abundance 
 of game to be found during a considerable portion of the year. 
 A party traveling on the land, if good hunters, could shoot 
 enough to keep both themselves and dogs from starving, and in 
 summer could secure enough to save some for future use ; for in 
 many localities the musk-cattle are quite numerous, with hares 
 and ptarmigans in plent\-. They are found as far north as our 
 winter-quarters, and probably farther, certaiidy at Newman Bay. 
 until late in the fall, and as soon as the sun re -appears in the 
 spring they are discovered again. 
 
•J94 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 On the land north of Wiishington Land, '' Hall Land," both 
 of which are but extensions of Greenland, though the coast is 
 rugged and mountainous, a short distance inland it becomes quite 
 level — is, in fact, so far as I traversed it, an elevated plateau, over 
 whieh a party with sledges, starting in early spring, about the 
 Lst of April, would have two full months to explore before the 
 melting snows caused them any serious inconvenience. There 
 is this advantage, also, in selecting this period of the year — it is 
 continually light; no darkness to contend with, which, in this 
 region, is a serious obstacle to travel, either by land or water. 
 
 The vessel — a steamer, of course — which is expected to prose- 
 cute with any hope of success the search for the pole must be 
 built as strong as wood and iron, properly combined, can make 
 lier: sharp bows, and stem sloping, so that on striking ice she 
 will run out on it. If the stem is straigiit or perpendicular, the 
 vessel brings up with u heavy thud, which is very damaging to 
 her. The hull should be so modeled as to allow the vessel to 
 rise or lift up in case of severe pressure by ice; neither should it 
 fall in above the water-line, or be wall-sided. 
 
 Twenty-live picked men would be enough to man her, and she 
 should leave New York, at the latest, by the middle of June, so 
 as to give time to stop at the Greenland ports for dogs, and such 
 (jther things as are needed and can not be obtained here. 
 
 Any exploring ves.sel ought to be accompanied a certain dis- 
 tance by a tender, with coal, extra provisions, and articles for 
 which theie may not be room in the steamer. A schooner ca- 
 pable of carrying about three hundred tons of coal, and a small 
 frame house, packed in sections, would answer. There are many 
 articles which would be useful which such a tender might con- 
 vey, but which would needlessly encumber a steamer. This ten- 
 der should go as far as Port Foulke — Hayes's winter-quarters — 
 and there leave her coal, house, and stores, the latitude of that 
 harbor being 78^ 17' 41'' N., and the longitude 72° 30' 57" W., 
 and twenty miles south of Rensselaer Harbor, Kane's winter- 
 quarters. The steamer should be at least capable of steaming 
 six to eight knots an hour, and should make under sail the same, 
 and be bark-risffred. That, 1 think, is the best rig for such service. 
 
 At Port Foulke the frame house should be erected, and the 
 coal landed, with provisions enough to last four men three years, 
 and also to last the whole party goii;^^ north m the steamer six 
 
TACK-ICE IX SMITH SOUND. 395 
 
 months. There should also be deposited Ikm'c tvo bouts. Four 
 men should be detaehed from the company to remain here to 
 take charge of the property, to take observations, and to assist 
 any returning party. These should be reliable, well-tried men, 
 or they would weary of waiting, and be tempted to leave. Sup- 
 posing this depot to be established, and the four men to be taken 
 from the steamer's company of twenty -five, would fetill leave 
 twenty-one to man the steamei", which, with core and good dis- 
 cipline, would be suOicient. All these arrangements should be 
 completed so th"t the steamer could leave Port Foulke and go 
 on her north wai . course by the loth of August 
 
 As above Port Foulke it is almost impossible to penetrate the 
 ice on the east side, we must now head to the westward, to Cape 
 Isabella or to Cape Fraser. The ice lies inshore, like a wall, 
 around the vicinity of Kensselaer Uarbor, Kane's winter-quarters, 
 extending from the harbor across toward Cape Isabella. So any 
 vessel ho})ing to make any progress must at this point go as di- 
 rect as possible across to the west coast, along the shores of which 
 they will find water, though they may not be able to see it until 
 they get nearly over. On no account must they take the pack- 
 ice in Smith Sound at any considerable distance from the shore : 
 tor, once getiing beset among the large, heavy floes which are 
 always found in the sound, it would be almost impossible to ex- 
 tricate the vessel during the same season, and the consequence 
 would be a long winter drift to the southward, such as delavcd 
 and exasperated Captain j\['Clintock, in the For, in 1857-'58. 
 Go direct for the west coast above Port Foulke, and if you can 
 not get through along the shore, be quite sure you can not get 
 through at all ; for the f;ill winds, the currents, and the pack-ice 
 settle that. But, unless the season is ver}' unfavorable, you can 
 work up on the west side. In going north, then, through this 
 westerlv channel — from one to four miles wide — at eveiv fiftv 
 miles' advance there should be caches formed, in which should be 
 deposited a certain amount of bread and pemmican. Eitlier bury 
 it, if the soil permits, or put it in the crevices of the rocks, crev- 
 ices which can always be found on these coasts, so deep and nar- 
 row that the bears can not get at it. On the surfiice, it is scarce- 
 ly possible to })roteet food from the bears. Of course some rec- 
 ognizable mark should indicate the spot. 
 
 There should also be two boats left at some more northern 
 
396 AUCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 point on the coast, for relief, in case of disaster to the ship. Boats 
 and provisions de]H)sited along the route in this manner would, 
 in case of necessity, ..lake a retreat comparatively safe and easy; 
 and would, in an\' event, if not needed, have a beneficial moral 
 effect on the crew, giving them courage and hope, and inspiriting 
 them to do their utmost, knowing they would have these reserves 
 to foil back upon in case of being compelled to abandon the ship 
 at a high northern latitude. Especially would this keep up the 
 spirits of the men, feeling assured that, however hard their jour- 
 ney back, they would find also succor, stores, and shelter at Port 
 Foulke. Then, with good skin clothing and sleeping-bags, which 
 may be made from sheep-skins in the States, no one need fear to 
 make their wav north. 
 
 For traveling-sledges I prefer those made in the simple fashion 
 of the natives; they are not so liable to break in traveling over 
 the rou2;h ice as the more complicated inventi "" of civi'ization. 
 In regard to dogs, two rules shv^uld be observed : first, to get tht 
 best : and, secondly, to feed them ivell on good wholesome food when 
 you have them. Better have ten picked dogs, healthy and of 
 the best breed, than forty young, weak, sickly mongrels, who con- 
 sume food and take up room, and do little or no service. It is a 
 great mistake, too, to feed these creatures, as many do, on putrid 
 meat, and keep them half starved at that. They are like human 
 beings to this extent, that ill usage incapacitates them for work 
 and breeds disease. They will eat almost any thing but iron or 
 rock, if they are hungry ; but their owners pny the penalty in 
 final loss and disaster. The rabies which decimated Kane's dogs 
 had no doubt some such origin ; they had suffered from scanty 
 and improper food. 
 
 Having, like a good general, made arrangements for an orderly 
 and safe retreat if Fate compels, it is next in order to get your 
 ship as far north as possible, and not be afraid of wintering at 
 the extremcst latitude which can be attained by steam. But 
 during the whole progress of the vessel, after entering the regions 
 of ice, provisions, ammunition, extra clothing, matches, medicines, 
 and, indeed, every thing absolutely necessary to sustain life and 
 health, should be kept on deck, with the boats in a position to 
 be lowered at a moment's notice: for in navigatinsr these Arctic 
 seas a vessel is liable to be nipped so suddenly that there is no 
 opportunity to save any thing which is below. Only that which 
 
TKUST TO THE CURRENT. 397 
 
 is or. leek, and in condition to be thrown overboard, can be re 
 lied jii. Ilonco every tbing which may be supposed to be need 
 ed in such an emergency should be carefully boxed, and read} 
 to be hove overboard at a moment's notice. 
 
 Now, supposing our vessel bound for the North Pole, and her 
 commander fortunately hits on a favorable season, and is thus 
 enabled to penetrate far beyond even the latitude made by the 
 Polaris, he will, of course, in the lall put his ship into winter- 
 quarters, without thinking of turning south to look for a harbor. 
 lie may thus possibly find himself in a trap, and must pass one 
 or two seasons watching for an oj)portunity to get out — availing 
 himself, of course, of chances to make land or ice explorations as 
 the season permits. On the worst supposition, if, after waiting 
 as long as his commissariat warrants, and he feels that he can not 
 risk the health and safety of those who depend upon his judg- 
 ment any longer, but that the time has come for him to extricate 
 them from a perilous position, what shall he do if his vessel is still 
 beset and can not be saved ? 
 
 I will tell you what I would do under such circumstances. I 
 would get every thing together that was necessar}- for a long so- 
 journ upon the ice, including boats, and, picking out a large, 
 strong floe, I would not hesitate to trust myself to that compara- 
 tively frail and ofttimes treacherous support ; for, frail as it might 
 be, as long as there was room to stand upon it I know that it 
 would carry me southward, for all the currents set from the north. 
 Then, knowing that along the coast I have provisions cached at 
 intervals of about fifty miles, and at Port Foulke comfortable 
 quarters, could I reach there, almost any decent company of men 
 might make the journey without cause for despair. 
 
 These plans might, of course, all fail through unforeseen acci- 
 dent ; but at least all the pre-arrangements would give a good basis 
 for hope, and the journey I believe to be not only possible, but 
 that in all probability it could be performed in safety. And I 
 know of no reason why a ship need be abandoned ; but I have 
 simply planned what could be done at the worst. The chances 
 appear to me reasonable that a ship might go far higher than we 
 did with safety and return, and that by ship or sledges the pole 
 might be reached with proper management in two seasons as 
 well as in two centuries. A good ship, a united company, and a 
 calm, courageous leader will yet do this thing. 
 
398 ARCTIC EXI'EKIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER xxxvr. 
 
 THE FATE OF THE POLARIS. 
 
 Tlie Polaris Survivors. — Ship driven to tlie North-east. — Her Position on the Night 
 of Octoher l."i. — Darkness and Confusion. — Anchors and Boats j;one. — Tiie Leak 
 gains.— Steam up. — Roll-call on Board. — Lookout for liie Floe J 'art v.— -Storm 
 abated. — Inspection of Stores. — The Polaris fast to grounded llumniocks. — " Let 
 her hill"' — Life-boat Cove. — The Polaris left a Legacy to an Esquimau Chief. — 
 She foimders in his Sight. 
 
 The south-west gale of October 15, wliich culminated in the 
 breaking up of the ice which surrounded the Polaris, and in leav- 
 ing the party under Captain Tyson adrift on the floe, was almost 
 equally disastrous to the vessel. All of a sudden, snap went the 
 bow-hawser, "like a pack-thread," slip went the anchors, and 
 away w^nt the Polaris none knew whither: for the darkness and 
 the blinding, drifting snow prevented all observation. 
 
 The floe remained grounded during the ni"ht between the 
 
 O CD <D 
 
 heavy bergs, which by their pressure had disrupted the ice sur- 
 rounding the Polaris ; but the vessel was driven by ihe force of 
 the wind in a north-easterly direction; and on the morning of 
 October 16 they found their position to be "a little north of Lit- 
 tleton Island, in Smith Sound — having been exactly abreast of 
 Sutherland Island during a portion of the night.'' 
 
 It will be remembered, as Captain Tj-son has described in his 
 journal, that all had been excitement and confusion on board ; the 
 darkness and the disappearance of the floe party greatly adding 
 to the very natural anxiety for their own safety; for, in follow- 
 ing the fortunes of the vessel (Oct. 15), it was related that large 
 quantities of provisions, stores, and clothing had been thrown 
 overboard ; and at first it was not known on the Polaris if suffi- 
 cient of these things had been retained for their own use; for 
 much of that which was put on the ice was known to liave been 
 lost. Boxes and bags had gone overboard, without discrimina- 
 tion as to whom they belonged. The clothing of those who were 
 on board was much of it thrown out, as all expected that they 
 might have to leave the ship either that night or the next morn- 
 
"STEAM UP." 31)0 
 
 ing. The wind was blowing with a velocity of forty miles an 
 hour, and at liulf-jiast seven the pressure of the heavy floe on the 
 starboard side of the sliip had keeled her over to port, so that it 
 was no longer eas}- to keep footing on the deck. The boats, too, 
 had been lowered — the only two remaining whale-boats — and the 
 little flat-bottomed square-ended scow. Hence two fears o{)press- 
 cd the Polaris comj)any: one that the water would reach the 
 fires; and the other that the party on the floe, with all the boats, 
 would be lost. The anchors, too, were gone, and vessel and crew 
 were at the mercy of the gale. All that could be done was to 
 try and reduce the water in the hold. The bilge-jtump was kept 
 at work, with the alley-way pump, but the water still gained, and 
 every probability was against saving the vessel unless the steam- 
 deck pumps could be started. The pipes were frozen, and the 
 pumps chocked with ice; but after a time, the fires being renew- 
 ed, sufficient hot water was procured fi'om the boiler to thaw out 
 the deck-pumps. Bucketful after bucketful was poured down, 
 and finallv thev were started. 
 
 Every one felt that life depended on those pumps, and all in 
 turn worked with an eiiergy commensurate with the gravity of 
 the occasion. At last Mr. Schuman reported "steam up," and 
 with this hopeful assurance all watched and waited through the 
 nidit, thankful that thev were still afloat. As the dim davliffht 
 of October 16 dawned upon the Polaris, the reduced company of 
 fourteen souls found themselves to the north of Littleton Island, 
 in Smith Sound, having drifted through the night, or rather been 
 forced by the violence of the wind, beyond the head of Baffin Bay. 
 
 Counting heads, it was found that there remained on board 
 the following officers and men : 
 
 S. O. Biuldington, captain ; IT. C. Chester, chief mate ; William ^lorton, second 
 mate; Kmil Schuman, chief engineer; A. A. Oilell, assistant engineer; W. F. Camp- 
 hell, fireman ; J. W. Booth, fireman ; N. J. Coffin, carpenter; H. Sieman, H. Hohbv. 
 N. Ilays, Joseph B. Mauch, seamen ; P'mil Bessel. chief of the Scientific Corps ; and 
 li. W. 1). Bryan, astronomer and chaplain. 
 
 The cook and steward were both gone, as well as the Esquimaux, 
 the assistant navigator, the meteorologist, and six seamen ; also 
 some of the dogs. 
 
 Mr. Chester* went up to the mast-head, and looked around in 
 
 * See letter of Mr. Bryan's in Appendix. 
 
400 AKCTIC EXPEKIKNCES. 
 
 all directions, but reported that be could see nothing of tbe lost 
 party or tbe boats. Tbe general opinion was, bowever, that they 
 bad ])robably saved the boats, as it was known that they bad 
 been dragged back to what seemed a safe distance from the ship. 
 It was now calm, tbe gale having abated. 
 
 The next thing was to see how much provision was left on 
 board, and if there was enougb fuel to get through the winter. 
 Tbe inspection was re-assuring, as of food plenty remained ; and 
 as it bad been determined by Captain Euddington to abandon tbe 
 vessel and make w'inter- quarters on shore, there could be no 
 scarcity of fuel while a plank or a timber of the Polaris remained 
 aOoat. There was also a lai'ue quantitv of coal still in the bunkers. 
 
 Toward noon a breeze sprung up from tbe north, and a lead 
 opened inshore to the eastward. The vessel, which was no longer 
 under perfect control, was drifting, with the set of the current 
 out of tbe strait. Fortunately the lead toward shore opened out 
 wide enougb to admit the vessel, and then, putting on full steam, 
 and also setting sail to assist her forward, the Polaris was run as 
 near shore as tbe ice permitted ; and tbe ground-tackle, and even 
 tbe ice -books, being lost, she was made fast by lines to some 
 heavy grounded hummocks in nine feet of water at bigb tide, but 
 aground at low. Al six p.m. orders were given to stop the steam- 
 pumps and let her fill. 
 
 Life-boat Cove — Kane's Life-boat Cove ! It seemed to give new 
 spirits to tbe party that Providence bad guided them to the shel- 
 ter which bad protected, under equally perilous, though different 
 circumstances, the beloved Arctic explorer whose fame is dear to 
 every American. This cove is in lat. 78° 23' 30" N., and long. 
 73°21'W. 
 
 On October 17 Captain Buddington surveyed tbe ship, and 
 found that her stem was entirely broken off below tbe six-foot 
 mark, with other serious injuries — so serious that be considered 
 it was only w'onderful that she had kept afloat so long ; and con- 
 cluding that she could not be repaired, preparations commenced 
 for permanently abandoning her. There was no difficulty in 
 doing this, as the Polaris lay so near shore. 
 
 The few succeeding days were passed in bringing from tbe 
 Polaris all tbe food, fuel, and the most necessary articles with 
 wbicb to build a iibelter for the party, and to sustain them through 
 tbe winter. TLiS done, tbe vessel was left to her fate. 
 
LAST OF Tin: rOLAUIS. 
 
 401 
 
 In the early summer, f(jr fuvors received, Captain Buddington 
 conveyed all the title to the Pularia he was able to give on a 
 native Es«|uimau chief; but shortly after she drifted out of the 
 cove, and foundered in the sight of her last (2?<«'i< owner, as de- 
 scribed in the cruise of the Ti'jress. And so ends the story of 
 the good ship Polan'-i, on which so many uufultilled liopes had 
 been centred. 
 
 A SIMMKU I:.N(:A.MI'.MENT. 
 
 m 
 
402 AliCTlC EXi'EIilENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 THE FORTUNES OF TliE POLAltlS SURVIVORS. 
 
 Life on Shore. — A House built. — Visitors. — Womanly Assistance. — Scientific Ob- 
 servations. — Amusements. — Old Alyoney. — Hunting. — Boat built. — Starting for 
 Home. — A Summer-tri]). — Sight a Vessel. — Rescue by Cajitain Allen, of the Ra- 
 venscrnig. — Romance of the Polaris Expedition. — Safe Arrival of all the Survivors 
 at New York. — Consul Molloy. 
 
 As soon as practicable a house was erected on the shore, com- 
 posed principally of portions of the Polaris, the spars of which 
 had all been hauled ashore, the bulk-heads of the state-rooms re- 
 moved, and the sails of the good ship assisted in forming a roof 
 for the new residence. The house was quite commodious, being 
 twenty-two feet in length by fourteen in width, and was perfect- 
 ly water-tight. It was very comfortable, but there was no at- 
 tempt to keep up any class distinctions. It was simply one open 
 space inclosed by four walls and a roof, without any subdivisions 
 for privacy or state. Like a ship in Arctic winter-quarters, it 
 was banked around with snow to keep out the cutting winds, 
 and was soon made warm and cheerful by the introduction of 
 a stove from the ship. A galley was established, and imple- 
 ments for cooking secured. Bunks, or sleeping-berths, were V^uilt 
 around the sides of the house, fourteen in number, to accommo- 
 date the whole company. A table, lamps, and whatever else the 
 Polaris afforded which could increase 'lie comfort of the party 
 were brought ashore and placed in position ; and all being thus 
 happily arranged, there was nothing more that could be done 
 until spring came ; for that they must wait before they could 
 hope to leave their present quarters. 
 
 The party were not long without visitors. Five or six days 
 after the Polaris was abandoned, a party of native Esquimaux, in 
 five sledges, came to the encampment, and greatly assisted the 
 crew in getting things out of the vessel, in cutting fresh-water 
 ice, and hauling it to the house on their sledges, and in various 
 other ways showing their friendliness to the part3% 
 
AMUSKMEXTS. 408 
 
 Of course their assistance was rewarded with presents of 
 knives, needles, pieces of wood and iron, and such little things 
 as they most valued ; and after a short time they returned to the 
 settlement of Etah, from whence they came. But ere long oth- 
 ers appeared upon the scene, and finally two or three families 
 built their huts in the vicinity, and prepared to spend the winter 
 as friends and neighbors of the whites. The women of these 
 families soon made themselves very useful by making and re- 
 pairing clothing, and performing other feminine courtesies for 
 the men ; and as the season advanced, and game became more 
 plenty, the native hunters brought to the house fresh meat, which 
 is always so greatly prized during an Arctic sojourn. The wal- 
 rus hunters, in particular, having good success, often brought 
 to the house a feast of Walrus liver, and by their good-natured 
 friendliness greatly aided the party, not only to maintain a con- 
 dition of physical health, but encouraged them through the Arc- 
 tic night by the feeling that, though cut oft" from the civilized 
 world, they were surrounded by friends, and not enemies. Among 
 the p]squimaux visitors was old Myoney, who hud also visited 
 Dr. Kane on board the Aili:ance. But he died during the winter. 
 
 Once established, and the routine of their winter life com- 
 menced. Dr. Bessel and Mr. Bryan resumed their scientific ob- 
 servations with such limited appliances as remained to them: 
 while the rest of the party amused themselves as best they might 
 in reading, writing, making up journals, and playing at chess, 
 draughts, and cards. Then there was house-work to be done, ice- 
 blocks to be cut for water, fires to be made, lamps to be trim- 
 med, food to be cooked ; and when, in February, the coal gave 
 out, wood for firing was to be cut from the Polaris, and brought 
 on shore. And then, as spring approached and light replaced 
 the prevailing darkness, favorable days would come, when some 
 of the party would tramp off in search of game, or set traps for 
 foxes or nets for seal. But, happily, there was no lack of food, 
 and no suffering from cold. They were well clothed, well fed, 
 and well sheltered ; and though ice-bound, there was really noth- 
 ing serious in their position — a striking contrast to the fate of 
 their late companions adrift on the ice-floe. 
 
 But one thing they lacked — namely, boats. But they had sea- 
 men to direct, a carpenter to execute, and plenty of materials 
 wherewith to build and rig one or more. As the season ad- 
 
4(>jL AKCTK' EXrKKIKNCKS. 
 
 vanced, and the topic of returning home began to be (liscussoil as 
 an event to prepare lor, it was decided that at least two boats 
 must be built to convey the party and necessary stores for con- 
 sumj)tion on the way. - 
 
 The sun had re -appeared on February 15, and from that 
 time forward the prospects and prej)arati<jns for traveling were 
 an almost daily topic of conversation. As the light increased 
 bunting-parties went out, and a large number of foxes and some 
 hares were killed, but not much other game was secured. There 
 were a great many deer seen, but all, with one exception, escaped 
 the aim of the huntsmen. 
 
 x\s April came in, Mr. Chester, with the aid of the carpenter 
 and others, commenced to build two boats. Each was twenty- 
 feet five in length, square fore and aft, and five feet beam, capable 
 of carrying seven men with provisions for about two months, in 
 which time it was calculated the i>arty could rcaeli a latitude 
 where assistance might reasonably be expected. The material 
 used was, of course, taken from the Po/aris. and chielly from the 
 ceiling of the alley -w^ays and after -cabin, as most of the light 
 material had been already consumed for fuel. Notwithstanding 
 the disadvantage under which the building progressed, two very 
 serviceable boats were produced, and also a third, a smaller one, 
 which was presented to the natives, who had been most friendly 
 in bringing fresh meat to the party. 
 
 It was the end of May before the condition of the ice was such 
 as to promise success to boat travel. Previous to the final ar- 
 rangements for leaving. Ca{)tain Buddiugton says, "A deposit of 
 certain valuables in boxes was made on the north shore of Life- 
 boat Cove, and these were protected with rocks," and there nec- 
 essarily left to the mercy of the natives and the elements. 
 
 On the 3d of June, a little after 1 a.m., the boats were laden 
 with food, and other necessary articles for the journey ; the party 
 equally divided into seven for each boat, and launching out into 
 the opened waters of Smith Sound, the survivors of the still float- 
 ing Polaris bade fiirewell to their winter liome, and turned their 
 faces southward, with high hopes and confident expectation of a 
 timely rescue. 
 
 With the exception of slight indications of scurvy in a few of 
 the men, all had retained their health through the Arctic winter 
 and the early spring. It was now summer, and continuous day. 
 
SKIIIT A VKSSEL. 40". 
 
 Neither cold nor darkiirss Ijeiiiunbc'il the frame or obsoiiro'l the 
 vision. The ;i4iiiitic birds, sea's, and otlier game conld now be 
 hud in abundanee wherever they put ashore; the e.izgs of the 
 cider and other ducks gave a pleasant variation to their diet: 
 and. but for the occasional interruption of their course by the 
 pack-ice. nothing occurred to discourage or dishearten them. 
 
 On the way they touched at the deserted native settlement of 
 Etaii-y-tancy, and at llakluyt Island, and subsequently landed 
 on the west shore of Northumberland Island. There the pack- 
 ice prevented their leaving until the 10th inst., and then enter- 
 ing a lead toward Cape Parry, they were subsequently drifted 
 back by the pack-ice to the place from whence tliey had started. 
 On the 12th a better prospect offered, and they .started again, and, 
 crossing the southern part of Murchison Sound, rounded Cape 
 Parry, and pulled up on Blackwood Point, near Fitz-Clarence 
 Rock. Proceeding again the next day, they reached and landed 
 on Dalrymple Island ; from thence reached Wolstenholme Isl- 
 and, Conical Rock, and (^ipe York. 
 
 Thus far the course had been comparatively easy; but they 
 must now face the ice of the glacier-fed ^Iclviile Bay ; and here 
 considerable more exertion was required, the leads sometimes 
 closing so that they had to haul their boats on the ice laid over 
 it to get another lead, and so on. But their troubles were not to 
 be of long duration. On the twentieth day after leaving Life- 
 boat Cove, and soon after enterimj on the ice-beset waters of 
 Melville Bay, their eyes were gladdened by the sight of a steamer 
 in the distance. They were at the time twenty-five miles south- 
 east of Cape York. 
 
 True, they perceiv'cd that the vessel was beset and could not 
 come to them, and she was some ten miles awav. But being be- 
 set, she was sure to remain until they could get to her, and the 
 relief appeared all the more timely, since one of the boats liad 
 been injured in its contact with the ice, and only about one 
 week's provisions remained. The party had apparently over- 
 eaten their rations, or had not rightly estimated them. 
 
 Two men were sent forward toward the steamer, but had trav- 
 ersed only a portion of the distance when they were met by a 
 body of eighteen men from the ship, which proved to be the 
 Ravenscraiff, of Dundee, Captain Allen ; lying in lat 75° 38' N., 
 long. 65° 35' W., Cape York being to the north-west, at about 
 twenty-five miles distance. 
 
406 ARCTIC EXrKUlENCES. 
 
 The party on the ice had been sighted by the lookout on the 
 vessel at about 1 a.m. (it being ligiit all the time then); they 
 were at that time about fourteen miles olV, and were supposed to 
 be Esquimaux. By nine o'el(.»ck it was observed that the party 
 were moving toward the vessel, but very slowly, tiot having 
 made more tlian two miles since lirst seen; and it was now dis- 
 covered that they were not natives, but white men. Tliis natu- 
 rally increased the interest on board. It was perceived that they 
 had two boats, and their colons on a pole. Volunteers were now 
 ready to go to their relief, and eighteen picked men v/erc chosen 
 for the purpose, Captain Allen also hoisting his ensign as an en- 
 couragement to the wanderers. 
 
 Captain Buddington and his party were intensely gratified to 
 see that they had been noticed, and all watched with the greatest 
 anxiety the progress of the two men who had gone forward 
 toward the vessel. But when the rescuers were seen returning 
 with them every heart was relieved, and weariness gave place 
 to Ihe joy of anticipated security. 
 
 The boats had been considerably injured by contact with the 
 rough, hummocky ice, and cue of them was slightly stove, but 
 had been repaired. The fatigue of dragging boats over such ice 
 may be partly imagined when we find that it took the combined 
 party of thirty-two from 6 P.M. until midnight to get to the ves- 
 sel — a rate of two miles an hour. The difficulty had been great- 
 ly increased by a deep, slushy snow, which was spread over thu 
 entire surface, and which was not only heavy and disagreeable 
 to wade through, but was not without its real dangers, as more 
 than one found by suddenly sinking into some treacherous hole 
 which was concealed by it. One of the men had great difficulty 
 in extricating himself from one of these hidden pitfalls; indeed, 
 without assistance the accident might have proved fatal. 
 
 Captain Allen received the weary men with open-hearted hos- 
 pitality, such as a Scotch whaler knows how to render to any 
 shipmate hoisting a flag of distress. Through him the party 
 learned, with unmingled astonishment, of the safety of the ice- 
 floe party — most, if not all, of whom they had supposed num- 
 bered with the dead. 
 
 The Polaris expedition had indeed proved exceptionally pro- 
 lific of startling and exciting incidents. From the time when 
 Captain Bartlett picked up the exhausted waifs of the ice-floe, 
 
KOMANCE (JF TllK POLAULS EXI'EDITION. 407 
 
 until the last scene in this thrilling drama was enacted, public 
 expectancy had been kej)t continually on the '/«/ rive by the 
 progress of events connected with the story of these Arctic ex- 
 I)lorers: the sailing and return of the Fru/ic with the nineteen 
 waifs; the developments of the examination at "Washington: 
 the lamentable and melancholy death of Captain Hall; the dis- 
 patch of the Jvniala; the purchase and fitting out of the Tiijress: 
 the finding of Buddington's camp; the story of the foundered 
 Polaris, r-nd the mutilated log-book; and the rescue of Budding- 
 ton and Lis men by a Scottish whaler, were events which suc- 
 ceeded each other with such rapidity that it almost seemed as 
 if an accomplished stage-manager was working the machinery 
 toward some rapid and astonishing transformation scene, and. 
 possibh', unexpected denouement. 
 
 After what had happened, the country would scarcely have 
 been surprised had the buried commander arisen from his frozen 
 grave and haunted some of the fugitives on their flight through 
 the Arctic zone, across the Atlantic waves, to finally confront 
 them in the very place and in the very presence where his great 
 hopes had been so nobly helped and cherished. 
 
 On September 19, 1873, the New York papers published a 
 telegram from London, stating that the day before ''the Dundee 
 whaling-steamer Arctic had arrived at Dundee, having on board 
 Captain Buddington and the remainder of the Pularis crew.'' 
 Later information disclosed the fact that it was not the Arctic 
 which had picked them up, but the whaling-ship Ravenscraig, of 
 the same port, on the 23d of July ; and that she had transferred 
 eleven of the party to the Arctic, and three of the Polaris surviv- 
 ors to the whaler Intrepid. The names of those who had already- 
 arrived in the Arctic are as follows: 
 
 Sidney O. Buddington, sailing and ice master ; Hubbard C. Ciiester, chief mate ; 
 William Morton, second mate ; Emil Schuman. chief engineer ; A. A. Odell, assist- 
 ant engineer; l/i'. Emil Bessel. chief of tiie Scientific Corps; Nathan J. Coffin, car- 
 penter ; Herman Sieman, Henry Hobby, Noah Hays, seamen ; \V. F. Campbell, 
 fireman. 
 
 These were all reported well, and that the parties who were 
 
 on the Intrepid were 
 
 Mr. R. W. D. Bryan, astronomer and chaplain ; Joseph B. Mauch, seaman ; John 
 W. Booth, fireman. 
 
 This information was received at Washington through the 
 
408 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 United States Consul at St, Johns, Newfoundland, Mr. Molloy, 
 to whom the first communication from Dundee was made — Dr. 
 Bessel, mindful of his European friends, announcing his safety 
 by telegram to Dr. Peterman, of Gotlia, Germany. United States 
 Consul Molloy, as soon as he received the information, without 
 waiting to telegraph to Washington for orders, took the respon- 
 sibility of hiring a swift steamer, the Cahot — and went in pursuit 
 of the Juniata^ which had sailed from St. Johns but a few hours 
 before the telegram from Dundee arrived, intending to still pros- 
 ecute the search. 
 
 Mr. ]Molloy knew that it was the intention of Commander 
 Braine to proceed, in the tirst instance, toward Cumberland Sound, 
 and from thence to take a northerly direction ; he had, therefore, 
 no difficulty in following his track. lie had wisely provided 
 himself with rockets and signal-lights to use, if necessary. At 
 11 P.M. of the same day the Caljot overtook the Juniata, attract- 
 ing the attention of those on board by throwing up rockets and 
 displaying all the light possible. 
 
 Commander Braine naturally thought that the vessel was the 
 Tigress, which was thus endeavoring to communicate with liim, 
 and concluded that the latter vessel had picked up the party, 
 or at least had information of them. The night was dark and 
 cloudy ; but as soon as the signals were observed the boat of the 
 Jauiaia was lowered, and, in cliarge of Lieutenant De Lontr, she 
 
 7 7 o ~7 
 
 came, like a streak of light marking the waves, toward the CahoU 
 which had been only seven hours in the pursuit. 
 
 As soon as the information was conveved to Commander 
 Braine that the Polaris survivors were all safe, he ordered the 
 head of the Juniata, to be turned toward St. Johns, and both ves- 
 sels were soon again in the port they had so recently left. 
 
 Mr. William Reed, Vice. United States Consul at Dundee, call- 
 ing the attention of the State Department, by telegram, to the fact 
 that the Polaris survivors were entirely destitute of means, the 
 Secretary of the Navy promptl}'- responded by requesting that 
 they be supplied by the consulate, and sent home as passengers 
 by the first steamer. On Tuesday, September 23. Captain Bud- 
 dington and his ten companions sailed from London for New York 
 in the steamer City of Antwerp, and arrived safely at New York 
 October 4, 1873. 
 
 It was some weeks later before Mr. Brvan and two others, who 
 
NAVAL BOARD OF INQUIRY. 
 
 409 
 
 had been transfei'red to the Intrepid, and from that to the Erich, 
 reached their homes, Mr. Bryan having asked and received a 
 rortni2;Lt's furlough. 
 
 As in the case of the ice-floe waifs, a naval Board of Inquiry 
 was convened in Washington, to which all the survivors v;ere 
 summoned, the results of which will be found in the Appendix. 
 
 This examination failed to elicit any additional focts of inter- 
 est beyond the information summarized in the preceding pages. 
 The testimony was so conflicting on certain points, that it was 
 obvious there was flilsehood somewhere; and as no good could 
 result from its ptiblication, the Secretary of the Navj' has very 
 prudently limited its circulation to a few official copies. 
 
 TUG LAIGtjT milLB. 
 
410 AKOTIC EXrEKIENCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC NOTES. 
 
 The Pacific Tidal Wave. — Meteorological and Magnetic Records. — Glaciers' Fauna. 
 
 — Entomology. — Flora. 
 
 The scientific observations made at winter -quarters during 
 1871-72 included records of the barometer, the force and veloci- 
 ty of the wind, the temperature of the air, and also the tension 
 of the aqueous vapor in the atmosphere (by the aid of Professor 
 August's psych rometer), and attention was paid to frequent meas- 
 urements of atmospheric precipitation and tidal registration. 
 ThrouLdi the latter, I)r. Bessel states, it was discovered that the 
 Pacific tidal wave reaches Kobeson Channel, and extends south 
 us far as Cape Ilatherton, the proof being that the tides rose ear- 
 lier at Newman Bay than south of it, a convincing proof of the 
 free circulation of the Polar waters from west to east above the 
 latitude of 82° N., if true. CajHain Tyson docs not coincide in 
 this view, nor as to the reported fact of the earlier rise of the 
 tides at Newman Bay. 
 
 The astronomical observations made by Mi-. Bryan were very 
 numerous, and were first directed to obtaining absolute certainty 
 as to the meridian of Thank God Harbor. On this meridian all 
 subsequent surveys were based, except such as were obtained by 
 triangulation; and these were also repeated with the utmost care- 
 fulness and exactitude. In connection with the astronomical ob- 
 servations, the pendulum observations were constantly recorded; 
 and during the months of February, March, April, and May hour- 
 ly observation? were made on the declination of the needle and 
 its variation, with other magnetic phenomena, such as the dip, the 
 horizontal intensitv, and the moment of inertia. 
 
 Every favorable opportunity was improved to examine into 
 the movements of glaciers; and as Greenland, and the whole 
 coast north and east of it, abounds in these rivers of ice, many 
 interesting observations were made, especially on the limits of 
 neve. 
 
 The fauna observed has been incidentally mentioned in Cap- 
 
BOTANIC^VL SPECIMKNS. 411 
 
 tain Tj'son's Journal and elsewhere; and the principal novelties 
 of animal life, it will be seen, consisted in the rediscovery of the 
 musk-cattle, which were supposed to be extinct in that country; 
 the other mammals and birds but little known were the lem- 
 mings, a small rodent, and the Arctic raven and falcon ; Sabine's 
 >'ull, and Tueston's sanderlinws. 
 
 Fish is comparatively scarce; but one specimen was secured of 
 the salmon species. Marine invertebrates of new and interesting 
 forms were also obtained. 
 
 In entomology Dr. Bessel added largely to his collections; and 
 among others v/hich have been incidentally mentioned in the 
 preceding pages were several varieties of iciineumon. 
 
 Of botanical specimens a full and curious collection was made; 
 fourteen varieties of pJiancronainic plants (those having visible 
 flowers, stamens, and pistils) were classified, and many species of 
 mosses, lichens, and fungi — the eflbrt being, of course, to secure 
 specimens of those not before obtained, or of which but few .spec- 
 imens have been previously secured. Some of the fungi under 
 the microscope reveal a beauty of form and brilliancy of color- 
 ing perfectly astonishing, suggestive rather of tropical suns than 
 Arctic cold. Much of Dr. Bessel's collection was lost, and the 
 more bulky articles were necessarily abandoned on taking to the 
 boats ; but his records being preserved, the scientific world will 
 yet receive a full detailed description of his work and discoveries. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 The Polaris expedition, combined with the pre -Arctic expe- 
 riences of Captain Tyson, prove conclusively several points : 
 
 1st. That white men can safely winter at as high a latitude as 
 Sl° 38' N. ; 
 
 2d. That a well-built and properly officered steam-vessel can sail 
 to 82° 16' N. with no insuperable impediment to farther progress; 
 
 3d. That no dearee of cold vet encountered bv Arctic travelers 
 impedes explorations, if the party is well fed and clothed; 
 
 4th. From the experience of Captain Tyson on bis whaling 
 voyages, with his observations of others engaged in the same pur- 
 suit, it is evident that there exists in the United States a large 
 body of men sufficiently acclimated to Arctic cold to make excel- 
 lent Polar explorers, without submitting themselves to greater 
 hardships than are common incidents of whaling voyages; 
 
412 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 
 
 otli. That it is of the utmost importance in exploring expedi- 
 tions to hiive bomo"enitv, not onlv of feeliiitf but of nice, in the 
 members of the party ; 
 
 0th. That tliere should be but one bead or commander; and 
 that all others, including the Scientific Corps, if any are present, 
 should be subordinate to the commander in chief; 
 
 7tli. That definite and severe penalties should be attached, by 
 competent authority, to the crime of willfully impeding or ob- 
 structing the purposes of an exploring expedition by any mem- 
 ber of it; 
 
 8th. Considering that the public interest centres in the discov- 
 ery of the pole and the settlement of that elusive mystery, we 
 believe that not only geographical but all alliliated sciences 
 would be in the end promoted by making the next expedition 
 purchj fjen(jrapJiical, and leaving it unembarrassed by a possibly 
 confHcting corps of officers under tlie name of ••scientilic."' An 
 ex{)edition oi-ganized for the sole purpose of reaching an object- 
 ive jioint would be far more likely to accomplish it if unim- 
 peded by discursive projects, however valuable per se. Lot a 
 good ice navigator find the pole first, and then all the scientific 
 men who are so disposec, can avail themselves of the opened 
 pathwav to make what investigations they please. 
 
 We have seen clearly where the weak points of the Pularis 
 expedition marred its efficiency. The members sailed out of the 
 Brooklyn Navy Yard already disintegrated by lack of mutual 
 respect, and divided by the line of native and foreign interests; 
 the commander also knowing that part of his company were not 
 to be relied on in an emergency; and from the fact of having so 
 large a number of Ibreigners on board, he had not that moral 
 support to lean upon which could alone nerve him to the exer- 
 cise of his ultimate authority in quelling insubordination. No 
 commander is justified in proceeding on an expedition with such 
 clearly defined elements of weakness patent to his observation. 
 
 Another weak iwint, and a ereat incumbrance in case of dis- 
 aster, was the presence of women and children ; these should 
 find no place in an exploring expedition ; they are drag-anchors. 
 at the best, and the source of discord and demoralization in al- 
 most every instance. , 
 
 So far as the vessel and her equipments were concerned, the 
 expedition reflects the highest credit upon the liberalitv of the 
 
ARCTIC CHKON()LOGY. 413 
 
 Government and the judicious arrangements of the Secretary of 
 the Navy. The fact that not one of the members were afUieted 
 with .scurvy, or any serious ilhiess, proves the excellence of the 
 provisions furnished and the discrimination with which thej' 
 were selected; and it is the plainest and most obvious deduc- 
 tion, that if this nartv had worked hannoniouslv togfether, and 
 the commanding oilicer had remained to winter another season, 
 by detaching exploring parties, and establishing caches of provis- 
 ions at distances of forty or fifty miles apart, that the interven- 
 ing distance — only four hundred and sixty miles from the geo- 
 graphical pole, a distance no greater than fiom New Yo.'k to 
 Halifax — could have been reached, and the great Polar mystery 
 solved. 
 
 In the possibilities which this expedition has revealed, there 
 is more encouragement to future explorers than tan be derived 
 from that of any preceding it; and the lonely grave of the brave 
 commander, instead of proving a warning beacon, will be but the 
 beckoning signal to his successor, ])ointiiig the way whither he 
 himself would have gone had not a treacherous fate struck him 
 down where he lies. 
 
 ARCTIC CHRONOLOGY. 
 
 From 1490 to 1857 there were one hundred and thirty -four 
 voyages, land journeys, and trans -glacial expeditions made to 
 the Polar regions. Of these, sixty-three went to the north-west, 
 twenty-nine tia Behring Strait, and the balance to the north-east 
 or due north. 
 
 AVithin tliG same period there were published two hundred 
 and tifty-seven volumes on Arctic research; to which may now 
 be added a host of American. p]nelish, and other foreis-n writers, 
 with a long list of scientilic and popular works germane to Polar 
 matters. 
 
 To those of our readers who desire an intimate acquaintance 
 with the scientific results of exploring-parties, and what was ac- 
 complished in this respect by the Scientific Corps of the Polaris, 
 we refer them to the publications of the Smithsonian Institution, 
 which, either in their "Keports" or "Contributions," conserves 
 all information of value relating to the meteorology, astronomical 
 observation.", experiments on magnetic influences within the Arc- 
 tic circle, with descriptions of the fauna and flora of those regions, 
 
414 ARCTIC EXrKRIENCES. 
 
 giving the details of work which would not comport with the pop- 
 ular character of this book. 
 
 We also think that it would be wearisome and useless to bur- 
 den our chronoloev with every name and date connected with 
 Arctic research. We have, therefore, carefully selected such as 
 will give the inquirer a general continuous outline and digest of 
 facts; sufficiently full, however, to enable any would-be student 
 of minutite to fill up the history by personal research with very 
 little trouble. 
 
 Giinniborn, a Norseman, from Iceland, visits Greenland 872 
 
 Eric the Ked, son of a Norwegian jarl, settled in Greenland near present site of 
 
 Julianashaal) 1)8.'{ 
 
 Eric visits Iceland, and returns with a number of emigrants, with the purpose 
 
 of settling a coloiiv- in Greenland, at IJrattalilid 985 
 
 liief, son of Eric, visits Norway, receives C'hiistiaiiity, retiu-ns, and proclaims 
 
 it in (ireenland toward the close of the ninth century, about 9!)8 
 
 Thjodhilda, wife of Eric, builds a church 100:.' 
 
 Bisiiop Eric, a Christian prelate, visits Greenland 1120 
 
 Bishop Arnold founds an Episcopal see at Garder, Greeidand, and builds a ca- 
 thedral 112»i 
 
 Colony attacked by the Skraellings, or Esquimaux, who burn and jjillage the 
 
 settlement, killing many inhabitants i:UO 
 
 Voyage of the two Venetian brotiiersZeni, who reported land in the north-west. 1380 
 Bishop's See abandoned m Greenland, and Eric's descendants utterly wiped out 
 
 and exterminated soon after by the Esquimaux 140',i 
 
 Voyages of John and Sebastian Cabot, passing the Arctic circle to the north- 
 west 14y()-"!)S 
 
 The brothers Cortereal made three voyages to the north-west ir>00-'08 
 
 Polar expedition, under Sir Hugh Willoughby, discovered i)art of Nova Zembla; 
 
 the whole party subsequently frozen to death on the coast of Lapland I.jOU 
 
 .T. Cartier, a French navigator, made several voyages of discovery to the north 
 
 and west ir.34-'42 
 
 Sir Iliunphrey Gilbert, on return from north-west voyage of exploration, foun- 
 dered at sea ir»"8 
 
 Captain John Davis ex]ilored the east and west coasts of Davis Strait ir)8ri-\s8 
 
 William Barentz made three Arctic voyages to the north-east lo!)4-'9(J 
 
 Captain Weymouth sailed from England, under a contract to find a north-west 
 
 passage to China, or forfeit all pay for his voyage 1G02 
 
 Ilemy Hudson made four voyages of discovery, sailing due north, north-east 
 and north-west ; found new and valuable lands, extending from New York 
 to north of Hudson Bay. On last voyage, deserted by mutinous crew, set 
 adrift in a small boat with six sick sailors, and voluntarily accompanied by 
 his carpenter, John King, he and his seven companions perished at sea. 1G07-'10 
 
 .Jan Mejan, a Dutch navigator, discovers Arctic island of that name Kill 
 
 Sir Thomas Button, the first to sail across Hudson Bay from east to west. His 
 
 name obliterated from modern maps 1G12 
 
 William Baffin and Fotherby, in 1(J14, and Baffin and Bylot, in 1G16, sailed 
 
ARCTIC CHRONOLOGY. 415 
 
 through Baffin Bay to mouth of Lancaster Sound. Their reported discover- 
 ies treated as mviiis 1G14-'1*> 
 
 Captain Luke Fox discovered Fox Ciiainiel, and penetrated otiier waters to the 
 noitii and west ; coidd iiave acc()nij)ii>hed much more had he not heen tram- 
 meled by official ''orders.'' Captain James sailed on a similar expedition 
 the same day in May U;',i\, '32 
 
 A Dutch navigator discovers and names, after himself, Gillies Land 1707 
 
 Vitus Ik'hring, a Russian naval officer, a Dane by birth, discovers Behriiig 
 Strait and Hehiiug Island 1741 
 
 Middletou ilisovers Wager Bay 1742 
 
 The British rarliament ottered A'2(),(M)0 for the discovery of a north-west pas- 
 sage to the I'acitic ria Hudson Bay 17i3 
 
 A private ex[)edition to the north-west, under Captain Charles Swayne, sails in 
 the Arffo from Philadelphia 17.")4 
 
 Hearne made three land-journeys north of American continent, discovered the 
 Copjierniine River, which he traced to its soiu'ce 1772 
 
 A private expedition, nnder Captain Wilder, in the brig Diligence, sails from 
 Virginia in search of the north-west passage 1772 
 
 Captain I'hipps (Lord Mulgrave) makes a voyage of I'olar discoveiy to the 
 north-east 1773 
 
 British Parliament oflers £20.0(10 for the discovery of any through passage to 
 the North Pacific, and i'lOOO to any ])arty getting within one degree west of 
 the magnetic pole 177t« 
 
 Captain Cook, the circumnavigator, attempts the passage by Behring Strait, 
 without success 1 7 7(i 
 
 Mackenzie found and traced the river of that name 17!^'.' 
 
 William Scoresby, a (ireenland whaler, makes a remarkable voyage due north. 
 
 Reports open water ''beyond the ice-barrier" ISOO 
 
 Scoresby stimulates Arctic research by numerous publications 180(5-'18 
 
 Expeditions under Cajjtain Ross and Lieutenant Parry 1818 
 
 Captain Buchan and Lieutenant (afterward Sir J.j Franklin sail with a thor- 
 oughly ecpiippod expedition, the first scientific party sent out by the British 
 Government 1818 
 
 Captain I'arry and Lieutenant Lyon, in the Ilecia and Griper; Parry sailed 
 north-west through Barrow Stiait and beyond, and claimed the Government 
 reward of £5000 1820 
 
 Remarkable land -journeys of Lieutenant Franklin and Dr. Richardson, also 
 Midshipmen Hood and Back (afterward Sir George), from York Factory to 
 Cape Turnagain 181<V22 
 
 Baron Von Wrangel makes his famous sledge-joiu'ney, and reported open water 
 in high northern latitude, known as "Wrangel Sea" 1820-'2:) 
 
 Clavering, with Colonel Sabine, go to Spitzliergcn and (ireenland in 1823 
 
 Captain Beechey, in the Blossom, goes through Behring Strait, and follows the 
 coast easterly to Barrow Point 182.'}, '24 
 
 Captain Parry made improvement in compasses to be used in Arctic navigation 1824 
 
 Franklin skirts the north coast of America as far west as Return Reef. 182t> 
 
 Franklin winters with Dr. Richardson at Great Bear Lake ; made interesting 
 experiments on terrestrial magnetism, etc 1826, '27 
 
 Captain Beechey makes a second attempt to meet Franklin from the Pacific side, 
 and fails 1827 
 
416 ARCTIC EXPKKIENCKS. 
 
 Parry makes anotlier voyage to the north-east ; travels in sledges north of Spitz- 
 lieigcn. and drifts faster south than he travels north 18L'7 
 
 A i)rivate ex])ediiion. nnder jiatroiiage of Sir Felix IJooth, sail.-, under ( 'ajitain 
 John Hoss ill the Vitorij. in whieh steuin was lirst used in Arctie ex|ilora- 
 tioii I,s2;» 
 
 Sir John Hoss finds and fixes magnetie jjule; English " union -jaek" jilaineil 
 upon it hy his nejiliew, James C. Ross 1S;!1 
 
 Captain llo^s ahandoiis his vessel, after wintering three years in the Arctic re- 
 gions, hiiilds boats, drags them overland to the coast ; put to sea; jiicked 
 up hy a whaler in July, 1833 
 
 Lieutenant Pack and Dr. King go overland from Fort Resolution in search of 
 Ross WX\ 
 
 Lieutenant Hack di.-c(^vers and traces the (ireat Fish, or Rack, River 1833-35 
 
 The Hudson Ray ('oini>any send out Messrs. Dease and Simpson, who make 
 valiiaiile discoveries on a land and boat journey 18.">7, "38 
 
 Sir John Franklin, in the Erebus, and Captain Crozier, in the Terror, sail in 
 the spring of 1 84r( 
 
 The Erehus and Ttrrnr last seen by Ca])tain Dannet, master of the Avhaler 
 Prince of W<i!es, in Raffin Ray, near Lancaster Sound July L't>, i84."i 
 
 Hudson Ray Company send Dr. John Rae to ascertain if Roothia is an island 
 or peninsula 18-K> 
 
 The Plover, (^ommander Thomas Moore, and the Herald, Captain Kellet. 
 with Mr. Robert Sheddon in his jileasure-yacht, the Xanctj Dmrson. sail to 
 Rehritig Strait, and make boat-journeys eastward, searching for Sir J. Frank- 
 lin , i8+8-r)(» 
 
 A searching exj)editi<in for Sir J. Franklin sails, under Sir James C. Ross, in 1848 
 
 The -Vor/A ^V<//- is sent out with su])i)lies 184!i 
 
 The Rritish Government otfer.s a reward of £20,000 to any party, of any nation, 
 relieving Sir J. Franklin's expedition 184!> 
 
 The Rritish Covenmient sends out eight vessels, with several tenders, to con- 
 tinue the search 18,")0 
 
 Mr. Ilenrv Criiniell. of New York, furnishes and e<iui]is the Advance iUid Res- 
 cue, to aid in the search for Franklin. Tlie United States Government orders 
 Lieutenants De Haven and Griffith to command the ves.sels 1850 
 
 Ca]>tain !M'Clure, in the Investujutor. and Captain Collinson, in xho. Enterprise, 
 go on the search through Rehring Strait. The north-west pa^ .ige solved by 
 M'Clure(by observation) October 31, 1850 
 
 The Ladi) Fninklin is sent out by wife of Sir J. Franklin, imder (\iptain I'enny 18r«) 
 
 Lady Frankiin organizes anotlier expedition to sail in the yacht Prin<:e Albert, 
 of 8!) tons. ilr. William R. Snow, of New York, goes to Aberdeen, anJ sails 
 in her as amateur exjilorer, with Captain Forsyth 1850 
 
 Captain Ommany, of the Assistance, discovers the first traces of Sir J. Frank- 
 lin's party at Cape Riley , August 23, IS.IO 
 
 At Reechey Island Lieutenant Sherrard Osborne first found debris of F/anklin's 
 first winter encampment, and three graves of sailors belonging to Erebus and 
 Terror August 2.5, 1850 
 
 Lieutenant De Haven, in Advance, arrived at Reechey Island August 27, 1850 
 
 Ten of the searching vessels, drawn as by a common instinct, without appointed 
 rendezvous, met at Reechey Island August 29, 1850 
 
 Leigh Smith, in English yacht, reaches lat. 81° 13,' sailing north-east 1851 
 
AUCTIC CIIHONOLOGY. 417 
 
 C'ai)t;iiii Wilkes, riiited States Navy, nicmori.ilized Crmgrcss for appropriation of 
 .*.">(t,(MM» to tit out a >U'(ige-('xpe(liiioii to aid in the search IH.'d 
 
 Captain Keiniedy. with younjj; Freiieh vuhniieer. Heljot. sails in /'rin<eAlfiirt. IS.'d 
 
 Captain William I'enny discovers sea to the iiortli of Wellington Cliannel : 
 names (irinnell Land Albert Land, thinking it nnkncjwn 1H51 
 
 Sir F.dward Helchcr >ails with a Heet of five vessels, to continue the search li^.'i:: 
 
 (-,ai)tain Inglelield, with Rene Jiellot, sails in the P/mnir lf<.")l' 
 
 Dr. K. K. Kane, hite singeon of the Adrnnri', is sent out in that vessel, fitted 
 up at expense of Mr. IL (irinnoll, of New York, and Mr. George Teubody, 
 of London: tlie latter jiaid ild.OOit 18.">3 
 
 Captain M'Clnre. in the Inrestiyatur. from Hehring Strait, meets Lieutenant 
 I'im near Dealy I^lan(l, the latter having entered the Arctic regions throiigli 
 Baffin Hay ..... Aiail I'.t, IH.'iS 
 
 Hritish searching shij) Resolute, of Sir Kdward Helcher's Heet, abandoned 1853 
 
 Cajitaiu Colliiison. in the Jinfirjirise. comiiletes the passage (solving north- 
 west) in his .s/tip twenty days after ^I "Cline : turns to the south-east, makes 
 many discoveries, and brings home relics of Sir John Franklm's ))arty l.S.")0-'">4 
 
 Sir .lohti Franklin's name stricken from the Navy List March IIJ. lS.'i4 
 
 Sir Kdward Belcher orders five good ships to be abandoned 1S.J4 
 
 The Resolute, one of Sir Edward Belcher's Heet, starts on a drift of a thousand 
 miles, from near Dealy Island to Cape .Mercy 1S.")4, '.">.■■> 
 
 Sir F.d« ard Belcher and othcers court-martialed in England : all honorably ac- 
 (luitted, except Sir F^dward, "whose sword was returned to him in signifi- 
 cant silence " 1S.J4, "">;") 
 
 Captain M'Clure knighted, and Captain CoUinson receives medal of honor 1)554; 
 
 Dr. Kane, in brig Adranre, explores cast coast of Smith Sound ; discovers and 
 names Iluniholdt (Jlacier; surveys eight hundred miles of coast of (jreen- 
 hmd and Washington Land, which he tiiuls and names : abandons Ailrawe ; 
 comes down with crew to I'pernavik in small boats, wliidi he reaches Au- 
 gust <; : announces uiscovery by ^lorton of the " I'olar Sea" lS,")3-'55 
 
 Lieutenant llartstene, in Uniteil States ship, searches for Dr. Kane. ])as-ing 
 above Kensselaer Harbor; returns to Upenuivik, and takes on board Kane 
 and his company 1855 
 
 Messrs. Anderscm and Stuart find relics r f the F'ranklin expedition at ^lotitreal 
 Island 1S55 
 
 Lieutenants Meacham and ^I'Clintock make separate Arctic land-journeys of 
 nearly fifteen hundred miles each 1854, "55 
 
 Captain Tyson, tlien boat-steerer on board bark George Henrif, of New London, 
 Ca])tain Jaines Buddington, first sighted the Resolute near Cape Mercy, and 
 visited it with three companions, bringing back relics to his vessel. . August, 1855 
 
 The Resolute taken possession oi by Caiitain Buddington, and brought to the 
 United States 1855 
 
 Resolute refitted, and presented to Queen Victoria by Lieutenant llartstene, 
 representing the United States, on December l(i, "in then.ime of the Amer- 
 ican people" 1856 
 
 Lady F^-anklin sends out the steam-yaeht For, Captain M'Clintock, to make 
 a final search for Sir John 1857 
 
 Private expedition of James Lamont. F'.G.S., to the north-east 1858 
 
 The Fox is beset in the Melville Bay ice-jiack, August and September, 1857, 
 and drifts southward until April, 1858 
 
 27 
 
418 AlUTIC KXl'KHIKNCES. 
 
 IJciiteniint Ilobson, of the Fmr. toiiiid llii- record ot' ttic (loath of Sir .Fohn 
 Franklin in a cairn at Victory I'oint. Date of death, .Jinic 11, lS47 18r>H 
 
 Captain .M'Clintoik tiiid- two skeletons in a I'oat, incinhersof Fraiikhn's party; 
 collects miMieroiis relics, and returns lf<.V,i 
 
 Dr. I. I. Hayes sailed in the steamer L'nited States, from Hoston ; made ex- 
 tcndeil land-journey on west coast of Smith Suiind and north of it; made 
 extensive disctiveries of new lands and connecting; waters ; planted the Amer- 
 ican fla;; on the most northern latitude attained on foot uji to that date. . ISOO, '(II 
 
 ("aprtain I'arker Snow sailed for IJcllot Strait and Kiiij; William Land l,HtJl 
 
 .V (i(>venune;it Swedish exjiediiion, under l'rol'es>or Torell, thi>rou;,'hly fitted 
 out, and having on hoard a large numher of scientists, natiiraiists, and stu- 
 dents, sailed for the seas nortli of Spitzhergcn May ',', ISGl 
 
 Hlomstand linds the sea free of ice to the north ot Spit/.liergen August 10, istjl 
 
 C'iiAi!i.i:s Kkancis Mali., an amateur exjilorer. sailed from .New Lonoon, Con- 
 necticut, in the hrig (leurtfe Henri/, to continue the search for survivors of 
 Franklin's i)arty ; lost his vessel, the Jiisrue: explored Froljisher Strait; 
 found the " strait" to he u hay : brought hack many relics of the old naviga- 
 tor lS(;0-'62 
 
 Charles Francis Hall makes a second vuyage to Hudson Hay. north shore, in 
 the hark Montirelli), with only two F'.sipiimaux companions; increases his 
 native com])any ; adds live white >ailors ; exjilores to the north and west. ;uid 
 gaii:s miu'h information respecting the Franklin jiarty 1;^(!4- 
 
 I'.dward Wliymper. a memher of the London ".Miiiiie Cluh." went to Green- 
 land, and made interesting expilorations liS(J7 
 
 Haron Schilling jirojected an exi)editioii hy the Hehring Stiait route, exjiecting 
 to skirt the Siheriaii coast, and tiiid the Polar Sea, or a I'olar continent, 
 which he helieves exists 1807 
 
 Captain Long, of hark Xile, in lat. 70 40' N., 17.S l.">' W., ex]ilored over .'5^ of 
 an extensive land, and examined an extinct volcano i;4so feet high 18G7 
 
 Captain Haynor, of ship lieiiulrer. ex]ilorod the same land for over ."i of lon- 
 gitude : thought it extended for more than s of longitude, aiul liorth for 120 
 miles. The south-west cape of this laud he re])orts L'."> miles from tlie Asiatic 
 coast 18G7 
 
 Cap.ain Lewis, of the Curinihian. landed on this coast in August; found tlcnv- 
 ers and birds, and indications of coal 1807 
 
 Lord Dntlerin, in schooner-yacht Faaui, made an Arctic voyage to north of 
 Spit/.hergen, ete 18(»7 
 
 A Swedish expedition, under Professor Nordeiiskiold. made interesting discov- 
 eries in nat;nal science to the nortli-east 18C8 
 
 A Kiissiau merchant — Sidgeotl" — sent out a scientific exploring exjiediiion in a 
 screw-steamer June, 18t!8 
 
 A priv.ite exjiedition. sent (tut by "SI. A. Hoscnthal. a merchant of Hremen, 
 with scientific conts. with eminent astronomer. Dr. .1. S. Doest. of .liilich..., 18C8 
 
 (^aptain IJIowen, of bark Nautilus, explored north of S])itzbergen to I'l' N. ; 
 observed land extending west as far as he coidd see 1868 
 
 The Gotha expedition, forwarded by Jlr. Koscnthal, with large screw-steamer 
 Albert, a walrus-hunter, with a crew of fifty-five men, provisioned for fifteen 
 months, with scientific cor])s. under Dr. Kmil Bessel (late of Polaris), re- 
 turned after an absence of only four months 18G9 
 
 Charles Francis Hall returns from his F'lanklin search expedition, after five 
 
AKCTIC CIIKDNOLOGY. 41i< 
 
 years' residence with the Ki<(juimaiix. with l."(» relics of the Franklin par- 
 ty Si'iiteiiiiitT 1. iH(;;t 
 
 Seven Arctic exf)cditions or^ani/ed and toruarded from different parts of Kii- 
 ro])e to Arctic re^rions ISO!" 
 
 Dr. A. I'ctcrinan organized ii party which sailed in the (ifriminiti, Captain 
 Ilcfjenian : and sailing-vessel Ilnnsn, C'a]>tain Koldewy — thirty-one officers 
 and men. anil six scientists. I^'ft Hreinurhsiven for North I'ole, rin ea-'t 
 coast of tJreenland. provisioned for two years IHO'.t 
 
 Cajitain I'alliser. |(ri\ate Kn^lish gentleman, goes to the north, between Spitz- 
 hergeii and Nova Zenilila l^t;^t 
 
 J. Lainont. F.(i.S., author of •"Arctic Zoology" and M.l'. for nnteshire. (its 
 out his own steam-yacht, at a c(jst of nearly !§.">(),0(M»; sailed for the noith 
 from ( 'aledi mian ( 'anal 1 8(>0 
 
 Mr. Kohert IJrown. an I'.nglish natiu'alist, explored extensively within Arctic 
 circle in (ireenland. Printed report on Arctic fauna IJ^Cilt 
 
 Steamship Panf/id-. from Boston, with Bradford, the artist and photographer, 
 Dr. Hayes, and otlicrs. penetrate the Melville ice-pack, in jmrsuit of artistic 
 icebergs IHCU 
 
 Dr. Hayes, in the steamer Pdutlur, in boats, and on foot, makes interesting 
 arcli;cological disco\eries relating to the early Norse .settlements in (ireen- 
 land, summer of 18fi!» 
 
 A French expediti(jn went from north of Eiu'ope to Arctic regions, to observe and 
 collect facts relating to the aurora borealis, with the follon:;)g eminent savants: 
 M.M. Lottin. Bravais. Lillcliook. and Silgestrom, with .M. Bevalct as artist. LS(;8, 'Gl* 
 
 The sailing vessel Iluitsti, of the Cierman ex])edition, was lost (jii the east coast 
 of (ireenland, in lat. 70^ oO', with a valuable collection of fauna and flora and 
 scientific records, on the L'.">d of ()ctob(>r, ls(;it. Her captain and crew, 14 in 
 mnnber, had collected provisions and fuel, with three boats, on the ice, on 
 which also was a small house. They saw the llnnsa sink ; then the ice drift- 
 ed with them to tlie south. On January 'J. 1S7(I. the ice-Hoe was liroken up 
 in a storm, and greatly reduced in size. The jiarty divided, each taking a 
 boat on January 11, to be ready for emergencies. They took to the sea 
 and worked southward in their boats, after drifting I'.K". days, and crossing 
 over !•' of latitude. Early in June they rounded Cape Farewell, and 
 reached the Danish mission station, at Friedrichsthal, and from thence ob- 
 taineii ]iassage liome to Bremen ISCiD, '70 
 
 An excellently planned French Arctic exploring expedition, under the savant 
 (iustave Lambert, was prevented from sailing by the outbreak of war with 
 (iermany ; its projector, Lambert, killed in battle 1870 
 
 United States Congress makes appro] )riat ion tor outfit of the United States 
 North Polar expedition, under Captain C. F. Uall, the authorizing act being 
 signed by I'resiilent (irant July 12. 1870 
 
 Polaris leaves Washington June 10; arrives at the Brooklyn Xavy Yard, to be 
 fitted for the voyage June 14, 1871 
 
 United States steamshij) Polaris sails from Brooklyn June 2!> ; touches at 
 New r.ondon, Connecticut: St. Johns, Newfoundland; and several Green- 
 land ports : and meets the United States steamship Congress, with supplies, 
 at Goodhavn August 10, 1871 
 
 A French gentleman. Octave l*avy, from San Francisco, sailed to go to the 
 Polar Sea, via the Kuro Siicv 1871 
 
420 AUCTic exi'i:uii:n(:i:s. 
 
 The Polaris reaches the hi;;hest northern liititiide ever attained l»v nnv ves- 
 sel AiiKii:.t ;t(». 1S7I 
 
 tJoes into winter-quarters at Thnnli (idil lIarlM)r, Septenilwr ;J, in hit;he>t win- 
 ter-(|imrters made hy Arctic explorers lf>71 
 
 l^ajitaiii Hall >taifs du a -li'cl^^c-iciiiiiicy tti the noith : i> absent two wecRs ; 
 ret 111 lis ill <,'i)(><l health tu the I'olnris Octoher L'l. lt<71 
 
 Is iniineiliately taken ill, partially ie( dvcis, lelapses, and ilies November .S, and 
 is hiiiied on the 11th 1H71 
 
 Captain Altniaii lanie near King Carl Land; saw no ice at 7'.> N IbTl 
 
 A Norwegian whaleman, KUing Carlsen, eircumnuvigatcd Nova Zcmlila; an- 
 choicii in Ice Haven, 71' li»'. on the i-oiitii-ea^t shore ot'niost eastern i>laiicl ; 
 found the house erected by ^\■illian. iJaieiiiz, the J)iitch explorer, two hundicd 
 and eighty-seven years before 1871 
 
 iV Kii->iaii (iovenmient expedition started from Archangel, and another from 
 the Vc'iii>ei Kiver 1871 
 
 •lames Lainont, of Kngland, made three Arctic voyages 1H('>1»'71 
 
 West Indian fruits and drift-wood found north of Nova Zenibja hy wl[alei->. 1871, '7-' 
 
 Swucli>h (icAeninient ex](eclitic)ii, under I'rcifes-or Noiclen>kiiiic|. sailed in the 
 I'vlhecn. an iron steamship, with a steam consort, and a brig, in the sum- 
 mer of 1872 
 
 Lieutenant Payer, of the Austrian army, and Lieutenant Weypiecht, oi the 
 Austrian navy, hired a Norwegian sailing-vessel, and sailed in .luiie for King 
 Carl Land; in 7."^' found the sea open, and made other valuahle discoveries... 1872 
 
 An Italian (.iovernment steaiuship accoin]panied the aliove expeditioii to the 
 north cape of Nova Zembla 1872 
 
 Ca])tain Nils Jansen. a Norwegian whaler, in a vessel of 'li\ tons, sailed east of 
 Spitzbergen to bay of King I'ail Laud: from to]i of high mountain saw 
 the open water east and north-east; no ice: to tiie N.N.W. land was visi- 
 ble fthe (lillis La'id of the old geographers^ ; saw birds, seals, large reindeer, 
 and iiuantities of drift-wood. Anchored in 7!'^ «' N 1872 
 
 Arctic exploring ship Polaris breaks, during a violent stonn, from the floe to 
 which she is anehored, and is driven in a north-easterly direction by the 
 wind, leaving nineteen persons adrift on the ice October 15, 1872 
 
 Captain Buddingtou beaches the Polaria (October K!) at Life-boat Cove, near 
 Littleton Island; abandons the shiji, and winters on the main-land 1872-7:? 
 
 (Captain Tyson with a party of eighteen souls drift away cjii an ice-flc^e ; lose 
 sight of the Polaris, and continue to drift a S.S.W. course from October 15, 
 1872, until the 30th of Apiil, 1873, without serious sickness or loss of 
 life 1872,73 
 
 Captain Tyson and party picked up by sealer Tigress, Ca])tain Bart- 
 lett April 30, 1873 
 
 The United States steamship Frolic sent to bring the party to Washington ; 
 took them on board at St. Johns, Newfoundland ; sailed thence May 28 ; ar- 
 rived at Washhigton June 5, 1873 
 
 Official examination of the officers, crew, and Esquimaux rescued by Tigress 
 before a Nav.il Board of Inquiry, held on board the United States steamship 
 TaIl<ipoosa at Washington, concluded June Ui, 1873 
 
 Imperial Geo.graphical Society of Russia sent sledtre exploring party, under the 
 experienced Siberian traveler, M. Tschekanowski, with a two-years' outfit, to 
 survey the coast of the Pokr Ocean in Arctic Siberia 1873 
 
AliCTIC CHRONOLOGY. 421 
 
 Captain Rii(l(lii)t;ton and jiarfy jiickcil up on June -';!, by tin- Scotch whuler 
 
 Jidrensrniif/, Captain Allen, twcnty-tive niilc-; south-west ot'Cajio York 1873 
 
 Captain Allen transfers Captain HiuldinKton. F.niil Ik'ssel. ami nine others of 
 the party to the whaler Ari'fir, of Dundee, which arrived with thcin at that 
 port Sejitemher IM, 1873 
 
 Mr. Bryan, the chaplain ami astronomer of the I'uhiris expedition, with two 
 others of the rescued |)arty, transferred to the Scotch whaler Intrepid, and 
 from that to the Krirh 1H73 
 
 News received from the Swedish expedition which sailed in 1H72: the spec- 
 trum analysis ajiplied hy this party to the aurora borealis; wintered in lat. 
 7'.»' .■).■!'. jirocec liiij,' north in July 1H73 
 
 Professor Nordcnskiold"s ex]iedition beset in the ice at Mosel Bay; relieved by 
 Leigh Smith's jiarty in the summer of 187o 
 
 The I'nited States steanishi]) Jiinidtn, Ciiinmaiider Braiiie, fitted out by Sec- 
 retary of the Navy, and ordered t(j sail as a tender and store-ship to the coast 
 
 of (jreenland, with su])plies for the Ti(/ress lune 12, 187;! 
 
 . The sealer Tit/ress, having; lieen purchased by the I'nited States, and fitted u\) to 
 go in search of the Polaris and the jiarry remaining in lier, sailed from the 
 Brooklyn Navy Yaril, under Comniande;' Greer, acconijiaiiied by Captain {pro 
 tern, lieutenant Cnited States Navy) Tyson as ice-pilot July 14, 187."> 
 
 The Tit/ress imd Juni<ttit meet at Cpcrnavik August Kt : the 'jr//7rp.w sails north 
 on the nth ; meets the steam-laimch Li/tle Jnnintit in Melville Bay 1873 
 
 Commamler Greer, of the Tiijress, finds Captain Buddington's deserted winter- 
 cani[>. August 14, near Littleton Island, at Life-boat Cove. Finds Polaris 
 sunk one mile and a iialf from shore 1873 
 
 The searching steamshii) Tit/ress returned, touching at Tofsac, L'jiernavik, and 
 G!,adhavn for news. August 25, sailed to the west coait to intercept whal- 
 ers : put into Cumberland Gulf. 1873 
 
 The whaler .flrc^/c, luiving on board Captain Mark'iam. IJ.R.X., and L^r. Emil 
 Bessel, visited Fury Beach ; found wreck of the British ship Fury, lost by 
 Captain Parry in 1S24 ; also canned provisions in good presen-ation, and 
 two English muskets bearing date of 18.50, probably left by Captain I'enny 
 in 1851 August. 1873 
 
 Commander Braine, of the Juniata, sends exploring party to north-west side of 
 Disco Island ; coal found in abundance September. 187;; 
 
 Leigh Smith's English expedition in l.irge screw-steamer Diana, at Trenerenberg 
 Bay, July 4. Keturned to Scotland in September. Discorered that North 
 Cape is an island 1873 
 
 Captain Buddington, Emil Bessel, and party arrive at New York October 4 ; 
 proceed under orders in the United States steamship Tallapoosa to Washing- 
 ton: examination ofthe party by Naval Board October-December, 1873 
 
 The Juniata returns to New York, arriving October 24, 1873 
 
 Steamsiiip Tigress left Cumberland Gulf September IG ; four days later ex])e- 
 rienced a heavy gale, which continued three days; made Cape Desolation 
 September 24 ; driven to sea in another gale ; next day anchored in a small 
 Fiord ; repaired engine ; took native pilot ; made Ivgitut Fiord on the 27th ; 
 refitted, and repaired boilers and engine ; sailed October 4 ; struck by heavy 
 gale on the 5th, which lasted till the 8th ; after a short abatement, another 
 gale. Returned to St. Johns. Newfoimdland October 16, 1873 
 
 Tigress arrived at Brooklyn Navy Yard November 9, 1873 
 
ATPENDIX. 
 
 Extract from Lettei- of Captain Edwin W. White, of Groton, Connecticut, to 
 a Friend in Bro<>kh/n. Xeic York, September 30, 1873. 
 
 "After liaviiii; ten years" experience in tlie Arctic reijions -with Captain 
 Tyson, I will say that I have ahvays founil him the best man to consult 
 with that I have ever met. 
 
 " I have also made several sledge-journeys with him, and have always 
 found hi;- power of endurance ahead of any one I ever traveled with. 
 
 " Yours truly, Edwin W. White.'' 
 
 To the llohorabU Secretary of the United States Navy, George M. Robeson. 
 
 Sixth Suow-house Encainpinent, Cape Brevoort, north S'ide entrance 
 to Kewman Bay, lat. Si'^ ii' N., lung. 61^ 20' W., October 20, 1S71. 
 
 Myself and party, consisting of Mr. Chester, tirst mate, my Esquimau, Joe. 
 and Greenland Escjuimau, Hans, left the ship in winter-quarters, Thank God 
 Harbor, lat. 8P 38' N.. long. 01" 44' AV., at meridian of October 10. on a .jour- 
 ney by two sledges, drawn by fourteen dogs, to discover, if possible, a feasi- 
 ble route inland fo" my sledge-journey next spring to reach the North Pole. 
 ])urposing to i!do])t such a, route, if found better than a route over the old 
 floes and hummocks of the strait, which I have denominated Robeson Strait, 
 after the honorable Secretary of the United States Navy. 
 
 We arrived on the evening of October 17, having discovered a lake 
 and a river on our way ; the latter, our route, a most serpentine one, which 
 led us on to this bay tifteen minutes distant from here, southward and cast- 
 ward. From the top of an iceberg, near the mouth of said river, we could 
 see that this bay — whicli I have named after Rev. Dr. Newman — extended 
 to the highland eastward and southward of tluit position about fifteen 
 miles, making the extent of Newman Bay. from its headland or cape, full 
 thirty miles. 
 
 The south cape is a high, l)old, and noble headland. I have named it 
 Sumner Headland, after Hon. Charles Sumner, the orator and United States 
 Senator; and the north cape, Brevoort Cape, after J. Carson Brevoort, a 
 strong friend to Arctic discoveries. 
 
 On arriving here we found the mouth of Newman Bay open water, liav- 
 ing numerous seals in it, bol)bing up their heads; this open water nmking 
 close both to Sumner Headland and Cape Brevoort, and the ice of Robeson 
 Strait on the move, thus debarring all possible chance of extending our 
 journey on the ice up the strait. 
 
424: AITKXDIX. 
 
 Tlio mountainous land (nont- otiicr alxnit hcrci will not admit of our 
 journcyinir farther north : and as the timi- of our expected alKcncc was un- 
 derstood to he for two weeks, we eomnienei! our I'eturn to-morrow mornintr. 
 To-day we are storm-hound to this our sixth eneamitnient. 
 
 From ("ape Brovoort we ean see land extendin<f on the west si(h' of tlie 
 strait t(> tiic north 22"^ W., anil distant aliout seventy miles, thus makinj; 
 land we dixover as far as hit. 8:^ •>' X. 
 
 There is appearanee of land farther north, and extendiiit; more easterly 
 than what I have Just noted, hut a peeuliar. dark nimhus cloud that con- 
 stantly liantrs over what seems may he land prevents my makini; a full de- 
 termination. 
 
 On Auitust ;50 the Pulnvix made her greatest northing, lat. H2- 2(t' N. ; 
 but after several attempts to get her farther north she became beset, when 
 we were di-ifteddown to about lat. HI' :>0'. AVhen an opening occurred, we 
 steamed out of the pack and made harbor September :>, where the I'ulnris 
 is. [Corner of the manuscript here burned oft'. | 
 
 Up to the time I and my party left the shi]) all have been well, and con- 
 tinue wi'.h high hopes of accomplishing our great mission. 
 
 We find this a much warmer country tlian we exjieeted. Fmm Cape 
 Alexander the mountains on eitiier side of the Kennedy Channel and Uol>c- 
 son Strait we found entirely bare of snow and ice. with the exception of a 
 glacier that we saw, covering al)out lat. SO' '.W east side the strait, and ex- 
 tending east-north-east direction as far as can be seen from the mountains 
 by Polaris Bay. 
 
 We have found that the country abounds with life — seals, game, geese. 
 ilucks, nuisk - cattle, rabbits, wolves, foxes, bears, partridges, lenunings, 
 etc. Our sealers have shot two seals in the open water while at this en- 
 campment. Our long Arctic niglit commenced Oct.)ber 1:5, having seen 
 (mly the upper limb of the sun above the glacier at meridian, ()ctol)er 12. 
 This dispatch to the Secretary of the Navy I fin'.shed this moment. 8.23 
 P.M., having written it in ink in our snow-hut, the thermometer outside 
 — 7=. Yesterday all day the thermometer —20' to 2:p ; that is, —"^0^ to 
 —33° Fahrenheit. 
 
 [Copy of dispatch placed in pillar. Brevoort Cape, October 21, 1871.] 
 
 To the Hon. Charles P. D.\ly. Pvexitlent of the American Oeogrnphical 
 
 ISocitty. 
 
 Washington. April 9, 1S71. 
 Dear Sir, — Continued occupation since my return has prevented me 
 from giving you, as you re(|uested. an account in detail of what I have ob- 
 served in respect to the geography of tlu; xVrctic regions. 
 
 With my first voyage you are sufficiently familiar, and I have nothing to 
 add to what is contained in the volume ])ul)lished l)y the Harpers. During 
 ihe last five years that I have spent in the Arctic regions I availed myself 
 of every opportunity afforded me for accurate observation, and I give you 
 the I'esults. 
 
Ari'ENDix. 425 
 
 You will rcnipmber that Waucr R;iy is an old <li«covcry of MiddlctonV 
 in l~4'2. when lif was in search of a iiortli-wcst jiassajjic. The ijciicral out- 
 line or rouLch sketch then made n mains unimproved to the j)resent day. I 
 explored this inlet for sixty miles, up and down, to its junction with Howe 
 Weleome, anil made -i series of oliservatiuns from astronomically tleter- 
 mined positions. 
 
 Repulse Hay. though visited l>y Middleton, and afterward Iiy I*arry and 
 by Hae, still remains hut imperfectly <letined. 1 have from my own olxerva- 
 tions the data for a more accurate delineation of the outline of this iiay. I 
 discovered and surveyed a new inlet, in lat. (»7 N.. hmg. H4" -W \\..:i few 
 miles north of Norman Creek, of which it may lie saiii to he a cc)unt<'rpart. 
 running from Lyon Inlet to the eastward. I may he excused for expre»ing 
 to y<m the <fratitieation I lilt in making this discovery. rememherinLT that 
 Parry, in \^'i\, when exi)lorini>- and surveying the opening to which he 
 gave the name of Lyon Iidet. determined, as he says in his narrative, to 
 leave no opening or arm unvisited; and yet. with all his care, and the aid 
 of his ()ttic(vs ami four lioats' crews, he overlooked the new inlet I found, 
 from the I'aet that a liiu'h island shut out from his view the entrance to it. 
 
 I discovered a hay on the west side of Fox C'iiamiel. lat. <j',l \ long. SI' :>(»' 
 \V'.. which makes west-south-west for lith-en miles. This Parry also missed, 
 which is not remarkahle when we consider that his was a marine survey, 
 along the west side of Fox Channel to Igloolik, an island near the eastern 
 eml of Fury and Ilecla Strait. 
 
 I discovered an important lake, twenty-five miles in length, in lat. 08^ 4.'>' 
 N., lonijf. H"'^ W. I call it important, as it abounds in salmon of large size 
 — some being six feet in length. It contains also many other species of 
 fish, s<mie of which, 1 think, have been hitherto unknown. Also anoihei 
 lake, lat. (liP li")' \.. runninu' ])arallel with Fury and Ilecla Straii. atiout 
 fifty miles in leiigth. It has two outlets. I followed up Crozier Hiver. t!se 
 mouth of which Parry ilisci>vered. and found its source to be the lake de- 
 scribed. At the west end of the lake is another outlet, forming a river, 
 which I followed down to the Gulf of Boothia, where the river diM-liarges 
 itself into a fine bay — another discovery. 
 
 It fell to my lot, also, to ascertain the nortu-westcrn part of Melville Pen- 
 insula, at and below the western outlets of Fury .and Ilecla Strait, which 
 may be said to eomi)lete the discovery of the American continent. 
 
 I discovered a long island, lying to the north-west and westward of the 
 western outlet of Fury and Ileela Strait, and also ihe coast of the main-land 
 <m the north side of the above-mentioned outlet of the strait: and I found 
 that the "Jesse Isle" laid down and so named on Dr. Hae"s chart, at the 
 north of Parry Ray. lat. (>9° W. long. 85 10 . is not there. 
 
 Although Parry had his vessels, the Furl/ .and the Iff r/a. near to Amherst 
 Island, in 1K22. and sent out from there exploring and surveying ))arties. 
 directing them to search, if possible, for the western outlet of Fury and 
 Ilecla Strait, they were unable to find it. In the following spring. 1823, 
 while his vessels were in harbor at Igloolik Island, lat. (59 21 N., long. 82^ 
 W., Lyon, Parry's associate, undertook to reach the western outlet of the 
 
426 AITENDIX. 
 
 >tr:iit l>y means of sldlircs and do'.'s; hut. after journcyinjr for nineteen 
 (lays, he I'ailctl to aceoniplisli it. In IslT Dr. Kac left liis lieud-(|Uarters at 
 fort lIo|ic. at the lieail of I{e|>iilse IJay. witii tiie intention of reachiiiL;' the 
 outlet of Fury and Hecla Strait: l»ut before lie eould i^et there his provis- 
 ions ;rave out. and lie was eoinpelh'd to turn haek. I hail some reason, 
 tlierefore. to feel L5ratitie<l when I found myself traversinj;' the very region 
 that sueli intrepid explorers as Parry. Lyon, and IJae had attempt* d to reaeh 
 in vain. 
 
 'I'he next impoitant e(Uitril>utioii to fieoiirapliy was my discoverinir an 
 importai.t i>iainl north of Ormond I>land, at the east end of Fury and 
 lleela Strait. What I'arry has put down upon his chart as the maindand 
 north of Ormond Island is, an island, hut somewhat less in size than Or- 
 mond I>land. 
 
 I think that if Parry had known of the existenee of the channel whieli is 
 on the north >iile of the new i>!ainl that I refer to. he would have suecoetl- 
 ed in ^'ettinu' Ids vessels mueli farther to the westward in tlie strait than he 
 did. 15y par-iiiix ihrouirh this new eiiannel. ami l)y kecpini: close to the 
 land on the north side of the .strait. Fury and llccla Strait, like the ])assage 
 leadinu into Waiter Bay, and like the Hudson Strait, in the navi<iai)le seu- 
 .son. may he penetrated l>y keeping on the north side, while the opposite or 
 south side is iiicumhered by heavy ice. 
 
 From intelliui'Ut Ksi|iHmaux whom I met at Ii,doolik, T olitaineil informa- 
 tion al)out, and sketches of the west const of Fox's Farthest, lat. (JU' oO' N.. 
 up to what Parry calls ".Murray Maxwell Inlet," whit'h is iica: the east end 
 of Fury anil 11 'cht Stra-*^ Murray Maxwell liUet is in reality a sound, or 
 strait, that swti-p-: around to the eastward, formini; a large island. If you 
 take your pen<'il. iind continue the so-called Murray Maxwell Iidet to the 
 eastward, and to the blank in Parry's chart, you will have the delineation 
 of the i>land that is there. To the eastward of the (althorpe Isles and 
 ('apt Konii: you will find the broken liiK's of the land that Parry discov- 
 ered. He could not determine whether it consisted of islands, or formed a 
 part of the main-land. From the Ksipiimatix who had been there I learned 
 that it consisted of two islands. The nearest approach I made to them was 
 on my visir to Fern Island, which you will tind upon Parry's cli.irt, at- 
 tached to the narrative of his second voyatre. 
 
 At iLrloolik I met Es(|uimaux who were natives of Cumberland Sound, 
 sometimes called Cum))erland Inlet, which you know is on the west .side of 
 Davis Strait, above Frobi:;|ier Bay. These natives made their way to Igloo- 
 lik by first making a portage froin ('umberland S>!und to a large lake, called 
 upon the charts Kennedy Lake, and which. 1)y-t1ie-way. I may remark, no 
 white man has ever yet seen, and then launching their oomiaks (women's 
 boats) upon the lake, which they traversed westwaril. entering a large riv- 
 er, and drifting down it with a swift current to Fox's Farthest, where the 
 river enters the sea. From there tliev turned north, and coasted alon«r up 
 to the ('althoq)e Isles, and from there crossed over to Tgloolik. 
 
 From Esipiimaux at Igloolik I also obtained important information of a 
 new bay, that will not only be of interest to geographers, but must, I think, 
 
APPENDIX. 427 
 
 cvontually lie of trroat valuo to our coiimiciTc. The cntnmoo to tliis Imy has 
 only Iji'on .seen, and is hidic-uted upon the Arctic charts as Adniiraity Inh-t. 
 NotiiinjT has been known, liowover. by civili/ed man of tliis bay or of its 
 character. The entrance is from Barrow Strait, hit. 7:^ 4:}' N., lont;-. 8:}' W.. 
 ami the !)ay extends very nearly in a southern direction to about 71^ N. lat. 
 Tlie west side |east '.\ has a coa.-t-line rm a i,n-adual curve from JJarrow Strait 
 to near its limit — tlie concave on tlie east, wliile tiie west side has many 
 bays, or h'ords, witli some aood harbors in them. Tlie bay is free from ice 
 every summer, and none of the ice from Barro\\ Strait ever tiiuls its way into 
 it. Tills bay abounds in whales {Bahina mysitieetm, or smooth-l)ack, the 
 n.ost im))ortant to civilized man), in narwhals (the sea-unicorn), and in 
 seals. So a!)uudant are the whales that the natives sometimes kill, in their 
 rude way, as many as five largo ones in a few days. 
 
 The information which I derived from the Esquimaux has convinced nie 
 that this new bay will prove as valuable to whalers as ('innl)erland Sound. 
 From l!S40 to tiie present time the product of whalebone and oil from 
 Cumberland Sound, by English and American waalers, has amounted to 
 !{! 15,000. 000; and as the are: jf the whale-fishery is gradually diminish- 
 ing, tlie fact of the existence of this bay I regard as of great value, as open- 
 ing up a new ground for tho prosecution of this important industry. 
 
 I also obtained valuable information from the Esquimaux at Igloolik re- 
 specting Pond Bay, the western prolongation of which u])on our jiresi'Ut 
 Arctic charts is miscalled Ecli])se Sound. If the testimony of the Esqui- 
 maux can be relied on — and 1 place the fullest confidence in it — Pond Bay 
 terminates in long. 81^ W. (approximately) : and the representation upon 
 the Arctic charts of a strait from Pond Bay to Prince Regent Inlet, on the 
 northern ])art of the Gulf of Boothia, is erroneous. 
 
 It has been the supposition of geographers that Davis Strait and Baffin 
 Bay are connected with Fox Channel by straits. This is not the fact. All 
 the intelligent Esquimaux that I have met in my two voyages assert that 
 the land bounded on the north by Barrow Strait, upon the east by Baffin 
 Bay. and Davis Strait, on the south l)y Hudson Strait, and on the west l)y 
 Fox Channel and Prince Regent Inlet, is one land, or one great island. 
 They know of a much smaller island that has Pond Bay on its south side, 
 Navy Board Inlet, or more properly strait, on its west, Lancaster Sound 
 on its north, and Baffin Sea on its east side. 
 
 My other contril)utions to geography are, that Dr. Rae's Colville Bay, in 
 lat. &%° X., long. 88° 20', is not a bay, but very low land ; that his Grinnell 
 Lake and Sim^json Lake, which he delineates as one continuous lake, are 
 in fact three distinct lakes; and, lastl\% that his Shej)herd Bay extends 
 northerly about twelve miles beyond the limit he lias assigned to it. 
 
 This, my dear sir, embraces all I have to communicate. You will reinem- 
 !)er that I went out with very limited resources, and was more circumscribetl 
 for the want of means than almost any Arctic explorer. Should I again go 
 out, as I trust to do, I hope to extend the rrea of geographical discovery, 
 an<I accomplish something that may redound to the credit of our conunon 
 country. Very respectfully yours, C. F. II.vll. 
 
428 APPENDIX. 
 
 Art Authorizing ^'orfh Puhir Expedition. 
 
 Under a poncral a])propri!iti()n ac-t "tor the y<'ar cndinir tlio tliirtictli 
 f)f.Tun(', citrlitccii liundicd ami seventy-one," we tind t]ie CoiiLrressionid au- 
 thority for tlie outtit oftlie '■ Umtkd 8tatks Nohtii Polai: KxPKnrrioN." 
 
 "Skc. !>. A till he it further enacted, That the President of the United 
 States be autliorized to or<j:ani/.e and send out one or more expeilitions 
 toward the Nortli Pole, and to appoint sueli person or persons as he may 
 deem most fitted to the command tliereof; to detail any otHe;.'r of the piih- 
 lic service to take part in the same, and to use any public vessel that may 
 l)e suital>le for the purpose; tlie scientific operaticms of the e.\pediti(ms to 
 be ])reseribid in acconhince with the advice of the National Acudemy of 
 Sciences; and that the sum of fifty tiiousand dollars, or such part tliereof 
 as may be necessary, be hereby a])proi)riated out of any moneys in the 
 treasury not otherwise appropriated, to be expended under the direction 
 of the President." 
 
 Instructions to Captain C. F. Hall, Commander of the United States North 
 
 Polar Expedition. 
 
 Navy Department, .Tune 9, 1S71. 
 Sir. — Having been appointed l)^^ the President of the United States 
 commander of the cxpcditicm toward the North Pole, and tlie steamshij) 
 Polaris having been fitted, equ'pped, provisioned, and assigned for tlie 
 purpose; you are placed in commanil of the said vessel, her officers, and 
 crew, for the purposes of t;ie said expedition. Having taken command, 
 you will proceed in the vessel, at the earliest possible date, from the Niivy 
 Yard in this city to New York. From New York you will proceed to the 
 first favorable port you are able to make on the west coast of Greenland, 
 stopj)ing, if you deem it desirable, at St. Johns, Newfoundland. From the 
 first port made by you on the west coast of Greenland, if farther south than 
 Holsteinborg, you will proceed to that port, and thence to Goodhavn (or 
 Lively), in the island of 13iseo. At some one of the ports al)ove referred to 
 you will probably meet a transport, sent by the Department, with addition- 
 al coal and stores, from which you will siijiply yourself to the fullest carry- 
 ing capacity of the Polaris. Should you fall in with the transport before 
 making either of the ports aforesaid, or should you obtain information of 
 her being at, or having landed her stores at, any port south of the island 
 of Disco, you will at once proceed to put yourself in communicatio i with 
 the commander of the transport, and supply yourself with the adciitional 
 stores and coal, taking such measures as may be most expedient and con- 
 venient for that iKirpose. Should you not hear of the transport before 
 reaching Holsteinborg, you will remain at that port, waiting for her and 
 your supplies as long as the object of your expedition will permit you to 
 delay for that purpose. After waiting as long as is safe, under all the cir- 
 cumstances as they may present tl'eniselves, you will, if you do not hear of 
 the transport, proceed to Disco, as above provided. At Disco, if you hear 
 
ArrKNDix. 429 
 
 notliiiifij of the transport, yoii will. al'tiT waitinii as lone as yoii deem it 
 .safe, sujiply yourself, as far as you may be alile. with such supplies and ar- 
 ticles as yoii may neeil. and proceed on your expcvlition without further de- 
 lay. From I)isc<i you will proceed to Upernavik. At these two last-named 
 places you will procure doys and other Arctic outfits. If you think it of 
 advantai^e tor the purj)osc of oi»taining dogs, etc., to stoj) at Tos>ae. you 
 will do so. From Ui)ernavik, or Tossac, as the case may he. you will pro- 
 ceed across ^lelville Bay to Cape Dudley Digtres. and tlienee you will make 
 all possible progress, with vessels, boats, and sledges, toward the North 
 Pole, using your own judgment as to the route or routes to be pursued and 
 the locality for each winter's (juarters. Having been provisioned and equij)- 
 ped for two and a half years, yon will ])ursue your exjjlorations for that 
 perioil ; but, shouUl the object of the e,\j)edition recjuire it. yon will con- 
 tinue your explorations to such a furtlier lengtli of time as your su2iplie.s may 
 be safely extended. Should, however, the main object of the ex])edition. 
 viz.. attaining the position of the North J'ole, be accompli^hed at an earlier 
 period, you will return to the United States with all convenient dispatch. 
 
 There Ijeing attaelied to tlie expeilition a Scientific Department, its oper- 
 ations are prescriijed in accordance with tlie ailvice of the National Acad- 
 emy of Sciences, as required l)y the law. Agreeably to this advice, the 
 charge and direction of tlie scientific operations will be intrusted, nnder 
 your connnund. to Dr. Emll Bessel ; and you will render Dr. TJessel and his 
 assistants all such facilities and aiils as may be in your power, to carry into 
 effect the said further advice, as given in the instructicms herewith furnish- 
 ed in a communication from the President of the National Academy of Sci- 
 ences. It is, however, im])ortant that objects of natural history, ethnology, 
 etc., etc., which may be collected by any person attached to the expedition, 
 shall be delivered to the cliief of the Scientific Department, to be cared for 
 by him, under your direction, and considered the property of the Govern- 
 ment; and every person be strictly proliibited from Ivceping any sudi ob- 
 ject. You will tliivet every qualified person in the expedition to keep a 
 private journal of tlie jirogress of the exjiedition. and enter on it events, ob- 
 servations, and remarks, of any nature whatsoever. These journals shall be 
 considered confidential, and read )jy no person other than the writer. Of 
 tliese journals no copy shall be made. Upon the return of the exj)edition 
 you will demand of each of the writers his journal, which it is hereby or- 
 dered he shall deliver to you. Each writer is to be assured tliat when the 
 records of the expedition are published he shall receive a copy; the private 
 journals to ])c returned to the writer, or not, at the option of the Govern- 
 ment ; but each writer, in the pul)lislied records, shall receive credit for 
 such part or parts of his journal as may be used in said records. You will 
 use evci7 opportunity to determine the position of all capes, headlands, isl- 
 ands, etc., the lines of coasts, take soundings, observe tides and currents, 
 and make all such surveys as may advance our knowledge of the geogra- 
 phy of the Arctic regions. 
 
 You will give special written directions to the sailing and ice master of 
 the expedition, Mr. S. O. Buddington, and to the chief of the Scientific De- 
 
430 AIM'KNDIX. 
 
 partinciit. Dr. E. HcsscI, t)i;il in case of your ilcalli or disaliilitv — a contin- 
 gency we sincerely trnst may not arise — tliey shall consult as to the propri- 
 ety and manner of carrying into further effect the forei,'oin<f instructions, 
 which I licrc urge must, if ])ossilile. be done. The results of their <;onsulta- 
 tions, and the reasons therefor, must he |)Ut in writing, and kejjt as part 
 of the records of the expedition. In any event, however, Mr. IJudiiington 
 shall, ill case of your death, or disaliilitv, continue as tlie sailing and ice 
 master, and control and direct the movements of the vessel; and Dr. Hessel 
 shall, in such caie, continue as, chief of the Scientific Department, directing 
 all sleilge-journeys and scientitic operations. In the possible contimicncy 
 of their non-agreement as to tlie course to he pursued, then .Mr. Hudiliugtoii 
 shall assume sole charge and conunund. and return with the e.\j)edition to 
 the United States with all possible dispatch. 
 
 You will transmit to this Department, as often as opportunity offers, re- 
 ports of your progress and results of your search, detailing the route of 
 your proposed advance. At the most prominent points of your progress 
 you will erect conspicuous skeleton stone monuments, depositing near each. 
 in accortlance with tlie contidential marks agreed upon, a condensed rec- 
 ord of your progress, with a description of the route upon wliicli you pro- 
 pose to advance, making cachea of provisions, etc.. if you deem iit. 
 
 In the event of the necessity for finally abandoning your vosel. you will 
 at once endeavor to reach localities freipiented by whaling or other ships, 
 making every exertion to send to the United States information of your 
 jiosition and situation, and, as soon as jiossible, to return with your party, 
 preserving, as far as may Ijc, the reeoiils of. ami all pos:~ilile objects and 
 sjjccimens collected in. the expedition. 
 
 All persons attached to the exjiedition are under your coninian<l. and 
 shall, uniier every circumstance and conditio] Iw subject to the rules, regu- 
 lations, and laws governing the discipline ,)i ;lie navy, to ))e modified, but 
 not increased, by you as t)ie circumstances <\ui\ in your judgment recpiire. 
 
 To keep the (Jovernment as well informed as possible of your progress, 
 you will, after passing (.'ape Dudley Digges, throw over! loaixl daily, as open 
 water or drifting ice may permit, a bottle, or small copper cylinder, closely 
 sealed, containing a paper, stating ilate. position, and such other facts as 
 yon may deem interesting. For this purpose you will have prepared pa- 
 pers containing a ri'fiuest. jirinted in several languages, that the finder trans- 
 mit it by the most direct route to the Secretary of the Navy, Washington, 
 United States of America. 
 
 Upon tlic return of the ex2)edition to the United States, you will trans- 
 mit your own and all other records to the Department. You will direct 
 Dr. Bessel to transmit all the scientific records and collections to the Smith- 
 sonian Institution, Washington. 
 
 The history of the expedition will be prepared by yourself, from all the 
 journals and records of the expedition, under the supervision of the De- 
 partment. All the records of the scientitic results of the expedition Avill be 
 prepared, supervised, and edited by Dr. Bessel, under the direction and 
 authority of the President of the National Academy of Sciences. 
 
Al'l'ENDIX. 431 
 
 Wishing for you and your brave comrades hcaltli. liappinoss, and success 
 in your dariuir intcrprisc, and coninicndini; you and tlicin to tla- protecting 
 care of the (Jod who rules tlie universe, 
 
 1 :ini, very respectfully, yours, Geo. M. Kotjeson, 
 
 Secretary uf the Navy. 
 CuAS. F. IIai.i., < 'ommanding Espeditiou toward the Xorth I'ole. 
 
 Lftter of Prnfemnr Joseph IIenuy {PveMent of the Nationnl Ai^oiJoni/ of 
 iSeieiicct), with Instructions fur the ^eitntijic Ojierutions of the L'.qudition. 
 
 Wiishiiii-'toD, D.C, June i>, 1S71. 
 
 Sir. — In acconhmce with the law of ('ongress autlii)rizing tlie exi)edition 
 for explorations within the Arctic circle, the scientific operations are to be 
 preseritied l)y the National Academy; and in behalf of this society I re- 
 spectfully submit the following remarks and suggestions: 
 
 The appropriation for this exjudition was granted by Congress princi- 
 pally on account of the representations of Captain Hail antl liis friends as 
 to the possibility of improving our knowledge of the geography of the re- 
 gions beyond the eightieth cU'gree of north latitude, and more especially of 
 reaching the ]h>\c. Probably on this account and that of the experience 
 which Captain Hall had accjuired by seven years" residence in the Arctic re- 
 yions. he was appointed by tlie President as commande- of tlie expedition. 
 
 In order that Captain Hail might have full opportu lity to arrange his 
 plans, anil that no impediments should be put in the way of their execu- 
 tion, it was proper that he should have the organization of the expedition 
 and the si'lection of his assistants. These privileges having been granted 
 him. Captain Hall early appointed, as the sailing-imistcr of the expedition, 
 his friend and Ibrmer fellow-voyager in the Arctic zone, Captain Budding- 
 ton, who has spent twenty-tive year.-' amidst Polar ice; and for the sub- 
 ordinate positions, persons selected especially for their experience of life in 
 the same regions. 
 
 It is evident from tlie foregoing statement that the expedition, except in 
 its relations to geograjjhical discovery, is not of a scientific character, and 
 to connect with it a full corps of scientific observers, wliose duty it sliould 
 l)e to make minute investigations relative to the physics of the globe, and 
 to afford them such facilities with regard to time and position as would be 
 necessary to the full success of the object of their org.inization. would ma- 
 terially interfere with the views entertained bv Captain Hall, and the pur- 
 pose for which the appropriation was evidently intended by Congress. 
 
 Although the special objects and peculiar organization of this expedition 
 are not primarily of a scientific character, yet many phenomena may be ob- 
 served and specimens of natural history be incidentally collected, particularly 
 tluring the long winter jieriods in which the vessel must necessarily remain 
 stationary; and therefore, in order that the opportunity of obtaining such 
 results might not be lost, a committee of the National Academy of Sciences 
 was appointed to prepare a series of instructions on the different branches 
 of physics and natmal liistory, and to render assistance in procuring the 
 scientific outfit. 
 
4;32 Ai'i'KXDix. 
 
 (Jri'at ilinittilty was met wiili in ohtaiiiiiii^ inon of tlic jiroper scioiitifir 
 a((]uiriiiHiits to tiiihark in an cntcriirisc wliicli must necissarily l>e attend- 
 ed witli niiicii privation, ami in whicli, in a nieasun', siicnce must be sub- 
 ordinate. This ditVicuity was, however, hapjiily olniated \>\ the offer of an 
 aceomi)li>lied phy.-ieist and naturalist, Dr. K. iJessel, of Ileiilellieru'. to taiie 
 charire of tlie seientilic operations, with sucii a-'xistanee as could be afforded 
 ]iim liy twtj or three intellii,''ent youuLT iii«'U that iniuht lie trained for the 
 serviee. Dr. Bessel was the seientifie direelor of the German e.xjiedition to 
 Spitzlieri,'en anil Nova Zembla, in 1S(»!), durinjj which he made, for tlie first 
 time, a most interesting series of ol'servations on the depths and currents 
 of the adjacent seas. From his character, aecjuirements, and entliusiasm in 
 the cause of science, he is ailmiraiily well (jualitieil for the arduous and la- 
 borious otHce for which he is a volunteer. The most important of the as- 
 sistants was one to lie intrusted, under Dr. Bessel, with the astronomical and 
 niauiietic observations, and such a one has been found in tlii' person of .Mr. 
 Bryan, a <rnuluate at Lafayette College, at Easton, Pennsylvania, who, under 
 the direction of Professor Hilgia'd, has received from 3Ir. Schott and 3Ir. 
 Keith, of the Coast Survey, practical instructions in the use of the instru- 
 ments. 
 
 The Academy would, therefore, earnestly recommend, as an essential con- 
 dition of the success of the objects in which it is interested, that Dr. Bessel be 
 ap])ointed as sole director of the seientilic operations of the e.\j)etlition. antl 
 that Captain Hall be instructed to atibrd him sucli facilities antl assistance 
 us may lie necessary for the special objects under his charijrc. and which are 
 not incomi)atible with the })rominent idea of the original enterprise. 
 
 As to tlie route to be pursued with the greatest probability of reacliing 
 the i)()le, either to the east or west of Greenland, the Academy foibears to 
 make any sug:;restions. Captain Hall having definitely concluded that the 
 route through Bathn Bay. the one with which he is most familiar, is tliat to 
 l»c adopted. One point, however, should be specially urged upon Captain 
 Ilall. nanuiy, the determination with the utmost scientific prccisiim possi- 
 ble of all his geogra])liical positions, ami especially of the ultimate northern 
 limit which lie attains. The evidence of the genuineness of every deter- 
 mination of this kind should 1)e made ajiparent beyond all (luestion. 
 
 On the return of the expedititm, the collections which may be made in 
 natural history, etc., ■will, in accordance with a law of Congress, be depos- 
 ited in the National ^luseum, under the care of the Smithsonian Institution : 
 and we would sug<rest that the scientific records be discussed and prejiared 
 for publication by Dr. Bessel, with such assistance as he may require, under 
 the direction of the National Academy. The imiiortance of refusing to al- 
 low journals to be kept exclusively for private use, or collections to be made 
 other than those belonging to the exiiedition, is too obvious to need special 
 suggestion. 
 
 In fitting out the expedition, the Smithsonian Institution has afforded all 
 the facilities in its power in procuring the necessary apparatus, and in fur- 
 nishing the outfit for making collections in the various departments of nat- 
 ural history. The Coast Survey, under the direction of Professor Peirce, has 
 
ArrKXDix. . 433 
 
 contriliutcd iistrKiiiiinical atvl miij,motical iiistninicnts. Tlif IIyilr()i,'rii|)liic 
 OtKci'. iiiuliT Ciiptuiu W'yniun, lias furnislud a transit instninicnt. sfxiants, 
 cliroiiiinictirs, cliai'ts, hooks, ct*'. Tlic Signal Corps, umlcr (Jciicral Mycr. 
 has siipplicil ant'iiioiiu'tcrs, tlicrinoinctcrs, ancroiil and nicrciirial liaronio- 
 li'rs, lu'siik's detailing a sergeant to assi>t in tiie meteorological observa- 
 tions. The nil inliers of the eonunittee of the Ac adeniy, especially Prot'osors 
 Baird and Ililgard. have, in disenssing with Dr. P>e^>el the scviial jxiints of 
 scientific investigation, and in assisting to train iii> oljscrvers, rendered iin- 
 ]»ortant service. 
 
 The liberal manner in \\ iiicii the Navy Department, unchT yonr direction, 
 has ])rovided a vessel and especially fitted it out for the pnrpose, witii a 
 liountiful supply of provisions, fuel, and all other retpiisites for the success 
 of the ex])e(lition, as well as the health and comfort of its memlters, will, we 
 doul)t not, meet the approliatinn of Congress, and he i'.iglily ap[>reciateil l>y 
 all persons interested in Arctic explorations. 
 
 From the foregoing statement it must he evident that the ]irovi~ions for 
 exploration and scientitic research in this case are as ample as those which 
 have ever been made for any other Arctic expedition ; and should the re- 
 sults net he commensurate with the anticipations in regard to them, the 
 fact can not l)c attributed to a want of interest in the enterprise or to in- 
 aile(iuacy of the means which have been afforded. 
 
 We have, however, full confidence, not only in the al)ility of Cajitain 
 Hall and his naval associates, to make important ;idditions to tlie knowl- 
 edge of the geogra[)hy of the Polar region, hut also in his interest in sci- 
 ence and his determination to do all in his power to assist and facilitate the 
 scientitic operations. 
 
 Appended to this letter is the series of instructions prepared by the com- 
 mittee of the Academy, viz. : the instructions on astronomy, by Professor 
 Newcomb; on magnetism, tides, etc., by Professor J. E. Hilgard: on mete- 
 orology, by Professor Henry; on natural history, by Professor S. F. Baird; 
 on geology, by Professor Meek; and on ghiciers, by Professor Agassiz. 
 
 I have the lionor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 JosKi'ii IIknuv, 
 Presiilcut of the Natioual Academy of Science?. 
 
 Hon. Geo. M. Robeson, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS. 
 OENERAL DIRECTIONS IN REGAllD TO THE MODE OP KEEriNG RECORDS. 
 
 Record of Ohscrvdtlom. — It is of tlie first importance that in all instrument- 
 al observations the fullest record be made, and that the original notes be 
 preserved carefully. 
 
 In all cases the actual instrumental readings must be recorded, and if any 
 corrections are to be applied, the reason for these corrections must also he 
 recorded. For instance, it is not sufficient to state the index error of a 
 sextant ; the manner of ascertaining it and the readings taken for the pur- 
 pose must be recorded. 
 
 28 
 
434 APPENDIX. 
 
 The l(>i,f-Iin(ik -Imulil ( ontaiii a ('(iiitiiiiioiis !iarnitivc of all that is done liy 
 tlic rxjxilitini), and ofall iiiciilciits wliidi occur on vliipKoaril. and a simi- 
 lar journal should lie kept i>y each sltMltre-purty. The actual observations 
 tor determining; time, latitude, the sun's hearintr. and all notes liaviii.n' ref- 
 erence to niaiipinsf the shore, soundinL,'s. temperature, etc., should l)e entered 
 in the loy;-lio()k or journal in the reirular order of occurrence. When s<.'ien- 
 titic oltscrvations are more fully recorded in the note-books of the scientitic 
 observer than can be conveniently transcriiied into the loir-book, the fact 
 of the observation and reference to tiie notebook should be entered. 
 
 Till' evidence of the genuineness of tlie observations brouiiht iiack should 
 be of the most irrefragable charaeter. No erasures whatever with rubber 
 or knife should be made. When an entry reipiires correction, the tii;ure> 
 or words should be merely crossed by a line, and the correct ligures written 
 above. 
 
 ASTUOXOMY. 
 
 Astronomical (>hxcrr(dions. — One of the chronometers, the most valuable, 
 if there is any ilitference, should be selected as the standard by which all 
 observations are to lie made, as far as practicable. The other chronometers 
 should all be conij)arcd with this every flay at the time of winding, antl the 
 comparisons entered in the astronomical note-book. 
 
 When practicable, the altitude or /.enith distance of the sun shu! I ' 
 taken four times a day — morniny anil eveninu; for time; noon .'i.i 
 niirht for latitmle. The chnmometcr or watch times of the latj;r.<' 
 servations, as well as of the time observations, should always be rex. ' 
 Each observation should always be repeated at least three times in all. 
 detect any nustake. 
 
 When the ujoon is visible, three measures of her altitude should be taken 
 about the time other i)assai;e over each cardinal point of true bearing, and 
 the chronometer time of each altitude. should be recorded. 
 
 As the Greenwich time deduced from the chronometers will be quite un- 
 reliable after the lirst si.v months, it will be necessary to have recourse to 
 lunar distances. These should l»e measuied from the sun, in preference to 
 a star, whenever it is practicable to do so. 
 
 If a se.vtant is used in observation, a measure of the semi-diameter of the 
 sun or moon should lie taken e\ery day or two for index error. 
 
 The ol servations arc by no means to be pretermitted when lying in port, 
 because tiiey will help to correct the position of the port. 
 
 The observations should, if convenient, be taken so near the standard chro- 
 nometer that the observer can signal the moment of observation to an assist- 
 ant at the chronometer, who is to note the time. If this is not found conven- 
 ient, and a comparing watch is used, the watch-time and the com])arison 
 of the watch with the chronometer should 1)oth be carefully recorded. 
 
 The observations made by the main party should be all written down in 
 full in a continuous scries of note-books, from which they may be copied in 
 the log. Particular care should be exercised in always recording i\vi place, 
 dute, and Jbnh of sun or moon observed, and any other particulars necessary 
 to the complete understanding of the observation. 
 
APPENDIX. 4^-, 
 
 OhMemitionx itt Wiiitir-qmn-tn-s. — TIic ;i~triiiioinical transit instrunifnt will 
 be set up in a suitalilc (ii»(rvatory. A mciiilian murk slioiild l)e ('stalili>ii- 
 eil as soon as practical )lc. and tlic instnitni iit kept witli i'onstant caro in 
 the vertical plane passing tlironirh the mark, in onler that all observations 
 may be brontfht to bear, on detcnninini;' the deviation of that plane from 
 the nu'ridian of the places. The transits of circiiin])olar stars, on both side> 
 of tile pole, and those of stars near the eijuiitor, should be fre(]Uentl.v oli- 
 served. 
 
 Moon culminations, inchidiiiij the transits of both first ami second limbs, 
 should be observed for the detennination (jf longitude independently of 
 the rates of the chronometers. Twelve transits of eaeli liml) is a desirable 
 number to obtain — niore, if practieal)le. If any occultations of bright stars 
 by the moon are visible, tiiey should be likewise observed. 
 
 The observations for latitude will be made witii the sextant and artiticiul 
 horizon, upon stars both north and south of the zenith. 
 
 All the chronometers of the expedition should be compared <hiily, as 
 nearly as practicable about the same time. 
 
 Whenever a party leaves the permanent station for an exploration, and 
 imuKHliately upon its return, its chronometer should be comijared with the 
 standard chnmometer of ih'- station. 
 
 Ofmrcatiotis duriinj Shd/jc or L'oaf Juiirnej/s. — The instruments to be 
 taken are the small Casclla theodolite, or a pocket-sextant ami artificial 
 horizon, one or more chronometers, and a jtrismatic compass, for takinsj; 
 magnetic bearings of the sun. In very high latitudes the time of the sun"s 
 meridian altitude is not readily determined ; it Avill be advisable, therefore, 
 to take altitudes when the sun is near tlie meridian, as indicated l)y the 
 compass, with regard to the variations of the compass, as derived from an 
 isogonic chart. The time when the observation is taken will, of course, 
 be noted by the chronometer. Altitudes should be taken in this way. both 
 to the south and north of the zenith : they will enable the traveler to ob- 
 tain his latitude at once very nearly, without the more laborious computa- 
 tion of the time. 
 
 The observations for time should be taken as nearly as may be when the 
 snn is at right angles to the meridian, to the east and west, the compass 
 being again used to ascertain the proper direction. This method of i)ro- 
 ceeding will call for observations of altitude at or near the four cardinal 
 points, or nearly six hours apart in time. 
 
 When the party changes its i)lace in the interval between their observa- 
 tions, it is necessary to have some estimate of the distance and direction 
 traveled. Tlie ultimate mapping of the route will mainly depend upon the 
 astronomical observations, ])ut no pains should be spared to make a record 
 every hour of the estimated distance traveled — by log, if afloat — of the di- 
 rection of the route, by compass, and of bearings of distant objects, such as 
 peaks, or marked headlands, by which the route may be plotted. 
 
 In case of a few days' halt being made when a very high latitude has 
 been reached, or at any tip " during the summer's exi)lorations, a special 
 object of cure should, be ' ;..( ;' ".n the actual rate of the chronometers 
 
436 APPENDIX. 
 
 witii tlic party. To this onil, u wcll-tletiiicil, fixt'd oltjict. in any direction, 
 ■iiioiild l)c selected as a mari<, the tiieodolite jiointtd on it. and tiie transit 
 of the sun over its vertical observed on everyday duriny the sojourn at tlie 
 place. Iftlie party he only provided with a se.xtant, then the same angular 
 distances oftlic sun from a fixed object should be ol)served on successive 
 days, the angles being cln^sen so as to be between ;50' and 4~). For in- 
 stance, set the sextant successively to '^0'", to 40 20', 40 ' 40', etc., and note 
 tlie time when tiie sun's limb conies in contact with the object. Tlie same 
 distances will be found after twenty-four hours, with a correction for change 
 in the sun's declination. The sun's altitude sliouldl>e oI)served before and 
 after these ol>scrvations, and its magnetic bearing should )«! noted, as well 
 as that of the mark. The altitude of the mark should also be observeil, if 
 practicable, either with the sextant or clinometer, but this is not essential. 
 
 MAGNETISM. 
 
 On the voyage and sledge-journey, at all times wlien traveling, the decli- 
 iiatk'ii or variation of the compass should be ol>tained by oliserving the 
 magnetic bearing of the sun, at least once every day on which tlie sun is 
 visible. On shipboard .)r in boats the azimuth compass is to be used; on 
 land the small theodolite will be found preferable. 
 
 When afloat, no valuable observations of the magnetic dip and inttnHity 
 are practicable. On the .sledge-journey the dip-circle may l)e carried, and 
 when halts are made longer than necessary to determine the place l)y as- 
 tronomical observations, the dip and relative intiiiaiti/. according to Lloyd's 
 methotl, should Ije ascertained. 
 
 At winter- quarters, in adilition to the above-mentioned ol)Servations, 
 tiiose of alu^olnte horizontal iiitetmtij should l)e made with the theodolite 
 magnetometer, including the determination of moment of inertia. Also 
 with the same instrument the absolute declination should be determined. 
 
 The least that the observer should be satisfied with is th.e complete de- 
 termination of the three magnetic elements — namely, declination, dip, and 
 horizontal intensity. At one period, say witiiin one week, three determina- 
 tions of each .should be made. 
 
 It is advisaltle that the same ol)servations l)e repeated on three succes- 
 sive days of each month during the .stay at one i)lace ; avul that on three 
 days of each month, ns the 1st, 11th, and 31st. or any other days, the varia- 
 tion of the declination-magnet be read every half-hor.r during the twenty- 
 four hours ; also tliat tlie magnetometer, or at least a theodolite with com- 
 j)ass, remain mounted at all times, tiiat tiie variation of the needle may be 
 observed as often as practicable, and especially when unusual displays of 
 aurora Ijorealis take place. 
 
 In all cases the time, which forms an essential part of the record, should 
 be carefully noted. . 
 
 Not long before starting on a sledge-journey from a winter station, and 
 soon after returning, the ol^servations with tiie loaded dipping-needles for 
 relative intensity should be repeated, in order to have a trustworthy com- 
 parison for the observations which have been made on the journey. 
 
APPENDIX. 437 
 
 FOIiCE OF GRAVITY. 
 
 As tlic- lonrr winter affords ample leisure, pendulum experiments may l>e 
 Tnade to determine the force of gravity, in comparison with that at Wash- 
 ington, where observations have been made with the Hayes j)endulum lent 
 to the expedition. The record of the Washington observations, u copy of 
 which is furnished, will serve as a guide in making the observ tions. Spe- 
 cial care should l)e taken while they are in progress to dctennine the rate 
 of the chrononu'ter with great ))re(ision, l)y observations of numerous stars 
 with the astronomical transit instrument, the pointing of which on a fixed 
 mark should be freciueutly veritied. 
 
 OCE.\N' PHYSICS. 
 
 Depths. — Soundings should be taken frequently, when in moderate depths, 
 at least sufficiently often to give some indication of the general depth of 
 the strait or sound in which the vessel is afloat at the time. If an open sea 
 be reached, it should l)e considered of the greatest importance to get some 
 measure of its depth, and since no bulky sounding ajjparatus can be carried 
 across the ice barrier, the Ijoat party should Ijc provided with one thousand 
 fathoms of small twine, marked in lengths of ten fathoms. Stones, taken 
 on board when the l)oat is launched, may serve as weights. 
 
 Bottom should be Iwought ;ip whenever practicable, and specimens pre- 
 serve' Circumstances of time and opportunity must determine whether a 
 dred(ji can be used, or merely a xpicimeu-n.ip. 
 
 Temperature of the sea should be observed with the " Miller protected 
 Inilb thermometer," made liy Casella. near the surface, about two fathoms 
 below the surface, ami near the bottom. When time permits, observations 
 ac an intermediate depth should be taken. These observations have a par- 
 ticular bearing on the general circulation of the ocean, and are of great im- 
 portance. 
 
 TUkii. — Observations of high and low water, as to time and height, should 
 be made continuously at winter -(juarters. The method adopted by Dr. 
 Hayes is recommended. It consists of a graduated staff ancliored to the 
 bottom, directly under the '• ice - hole." by a mushroom - anchor, or heavy 
 stone and a chain, which is kept stretched by a counter-weight attached to 
 a rope tliat passes over a pulley rigged overhead. The readings are taken 
 by the lieight of the water in the "ice-hole." In the course of a few days" 
 careful observations, the periods of high and low water will become suffi- 
 ciently well known to predict the turns approximating from day to day, 
 and subseciuently. observations taken every fi\ e minutes for half an hour, 
 about the anticipated turn, will suffice, provided they be continued until 
 the turn of tide has become well marked. 
 
 Tidal obsen'ations taken at other points, when a halt is made for some 
 time, even if continued not longer than a week, will be of special value, as 
 affording an indication as to the <lirection in which the tide-wave is pro- 
 gressing, and inferentially, as to the proximity of an open sea. If, as the 
 expedition proceeds, the tide is found to be later, the indication is that the 
 
438 AITENDIX. 
 
 open sea is far distant, if ■ndocd the elKinncl lio not closed. But if the tide 
 occurs earlier, a the ship advances, the proltability is stronnly in favor of 
 the near apjjroach to uu open, deep sea, conununicatiug directly Avith the 
 Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 In niakini^r such a comparison, attention must be paid to the semi-month- 
 ly ineijuality in the time of high water, which may be api)ro.\imately taken 
 from the observations at winter-quarters. Observations made at the same 
 age of the moon, in diflerent places, may be directly compared. 
 
 AVhen the Avater is open, the tide may l)e observed by means of a grad- 
 uated pole stuck into the bottom; or, if that can not be conveniently done, 
 liy means of a marked line, anchored to the bottom, and floated by a light 
 buoy, the observation being taken l)y hauling iij) the line taut over the 
 anchor. 
 
 Currents. — It is extremely desirable to ol)tain some idea of the currents 
 in the open Polar sea, if such is found. No s])ecial oI)servations can be in- 
 dicated, however, except those of the drift of icebergs, if any should be seen. 
 
 Demsit!/. — The dansiti/ of the sea-water should be frequently observed with 
 delicate hydrometers, giving direct indications to the fourth decimal. When- 
 ever j)racticable water should be brought up from different dejiths, and its 
 density tested. The specimens should be preserved in carefully sealed bot- 
 tles, with a view to the subsequent determination of their mineral con- 
 tents. 
 
 METEOROLOGY. 
 
 The expedition is well supplied with meteorological instruments, all the 
 standards, with the exception of the mercurial barometers, manufactureil 
 l)y Casella, and compared with the standards of the Kew Observatory un- 
 der the direction of Professor Balfour Stewart. Dr. Bessel is so familiar 
 with the use of instruments, and so well acquainted with the principles of 
 meteorology, that minute inst - "tions are unnecessary. We shall, therefore, 
 merely call attention, by wa^ ;; emembrauce, to the several points worthy 
 of special notice. 
 
 Temperature. — The registers of the temperature, as well as of the barom- 
 eter, direction of the wind, and moisture of the atmosphere, should, in all 
 cases in which it is possible, be made hourlj-, and when that can not be 
 done, they should be made at intervals of two. three, four, or six hours. The 
 temperature of the water of the ocean, as well as of the air, should be taken 
 during the sailing of the vessel. 
 
 Tile minimum temperature of the ice, while in winter-quarters, should be 
 noted from time to time, perhaps at diflerent depths, also that of the Avater 
 lieneath. 
 
 The temperature of the black-bulb thermometer in tciciio exposed to the 
 sun, and also that of the black-bulb free to the air, should be frequently ob- 
 served while the sun is on the meridian, and at given altitudes in the fore- 
 noon and afternoon, and these oljservations compared with those of the or- 
 dinary thermometer in the shade. 
 
 Experiments should also be made with the thermometer in the focus of 
 the silvered mirror, the face of which is directed lo the sky. For this i^ur- 
 
AITENDIX. 439 
 
 pocc the ordinary 1ilafk-l)ull) thormometcr may be used as well as the nakcd- 
 Imll) thennoinetcr. Tlie thermometer tliu:. ))hued will generally indieate a 
 lower temperature than one freely exposed to radiati(m from the jrround 
 and terrestrial ohjeets, and in case of isolated clouds will probably serve to 
 indicate those whieii are cohler and perhaps hij,dier. 
 
 Comparison may also be made between the temperature at ditl'erent dis- 
 tances above the earth, l)y suspending thermometers on a spar at different 
 heiiihts. 
 
 Tlie temperature of deep soundings should be taken with the thermom- 
 eter, with a guard to obviate the pressure of the water. As the tendency, 
 on account of the revolution of the earth, is constantly to deflect all cur- 
 rents to the right hand of the observer looking ilown stream, the variati<ms 
 in temperature in connection with this fact may serve to assist in indicating 
 the existence, source, and direction of currents. 
 
 The depth of frost shouhl l)e ascertained, and also, if jiossible. the point 
 of invariable temperature. For this purjjose, augers and drills with long 
 .stems for boring deeply should be provided. 
 
 Prfxxiire of Air. — A series of comparative observations should be made of 
 the indications of the mercurial and aneroid barometers, i'he latter will l)e 
 affected by the variation of gravity as well as of temperature, while the for- 
 mer Avill require a correction due only to heat and capillarity. 
 
 As it is known that the normal height of the barometer varies in differ- 
 ent latitudes, accurate observations in the Arctic regions with this instru- 
 ment are very desirable, especially in connection with observations on the 
 moisture of the atmosphere, since, tt) the small (juantity of this in northern 
 latitudes the low barometer, which is observed there, has been attributed. 
 I think, however, it will be found that the true cause is in the rotation of 
 the earth on its axis, which, if sufficiently rapid, would project al! the air 
 from the pole. 
 
 In the latitude of about 00°, there is a belt around the earth in which the 
 barometer stands unusually high, and in which violent fluctuations occtir. 
 This will probably be exhibited in the projection of the curve representing 
 the normal height of tlie barometrical column in different latitudes. 
 
 Moisture. — The two instruments for determining the moisture in the air 
 arc the wet and dry bulb thermometer and the dew-point instrument, as 
 improved liy Regnault. But to determine the exact quantity in the atmos- 
 phere in the Arctic regions will require the use of an aspirator, by which a 
 given (juantity of air can be passed through an absorl)ing sul)stance, such 
 as chloride of calcium, and the increase of weight accurately ascertained. 
 It may, however, be readily shown that the amount is very small in still air. 
 
 A wind from a more southern latitude will increase the moisture, and 
 may give rise to fogs. Sometimes, from openings in the ice, v;q)or may be 
 exhaled from water of a higher temperature than the air, and be immediate- 
 ly precipitated into fog. 
 
 The inconvenience which is felt from the moisture which exhales with 
 the breath in the hold of the vessel may, perhaps, be obviated by adopting 
 the ingenious expedient of one of the Arctic voyagers, namely, by making 
 
440 ■ APPKNDIX. 
 
 a numbpr of liolcs t1iroui;h the deck aiul invorting over tliom a largo metal- 
 lic vessel like a pot. Tiie exterior of this vessel heiiig exjxised to the low 
 temperature of the air without, would condense the in()i>ture from within 
 on its interior surface, and thus serve, on the principle of the ditVusion of 
 va]»or, to desiccate the air l)e'.)w. 
 
 The variation of nuM^turc in the atmosfihcrc performs a very important 
 part in all meteort)logie;d ch;inges. Its etlects. however, are proliably less 
 marked in the Arctic regions than in more soulln'm latitudes. The first ef- 
 fect of the introduction into the atmosphere of moisture is to expand the 
 air and to diminish its weight; but after an equilibrium has taken place, it 
 exists, as it were, as an indei)endent atmospliere. and tluis increases the press- 
 ure. These opposite etfccts render the phenomena exceedingly complex. 
 
 Wiin/!<. — As to these, the following observations are to lie regularly and 
 carefully registered, namely; The average velocity, as indicated by Ilobin- 
 son's anemometer ; the hour at which any remarkable change takes place in 
 their direction : the course of their veering ; the existence at the same time 
 of currents in ditferent directions, as indicated by tlie clouds; the time of 
 beginning and ending of liot or cold winds, and the eliriction from which 
 they come. Observations on the force and direction of the wiu(' are very 
 important. The form of tlie wind-vane should be that of which the feather 
 j)art consists of t\v() planes, forming between them an angle of altout 10". 
 The sensibility of this instrument, provided its weight l>e not too mucii in- 
 creased, is in proportion to the surface of the feather planes. Great care 
 must be taken to enter the direction of the wind from the true meridian, 
 whenever this can be obtained, and in all cases to indicate whether the' en- 
 tries refer to tlie true or magnetic north. Much inicertainty has arisen on 
 account of the neglect of this precaution. 
 
 In accordance witli the results obtained by Professor Coffin, in his work 
 on the resultant direction of the Avind. there are, in the northern hemis- 
 pliere. tliree systems roughly corresponding with the different zones — nanie- 
 1}% the tropical, in wliicli the resultant motion is toward the west ; the tem- 
 perate, toward the east ; and the Arctic, in which it is again toward the 
 west. 
 
 In vhe discussion of all the observations, the variation of the temperature 
 and the iiutisture will nnnear, in their connectio'i w-ifli fho direction of the 
 wind. Hence tlie importance of simultaneous observations on these ele- 
 ments, and also on the atmospheric pressure. 
 
 Precipitation. — The expedition will be furnished with a number of rain- 
 gauges, the contents of which should be measured after each shower. By 
 inverting and pressing them downward into the snow, and subsequently 
 ascertaining, by melting in the same vessel, the amount of water pro- 
 duced, they will serve to give the jirecipitation of water in the form of 
 snow. The depth of snow can be measured by an ordinary measuring-rod. 
 Much difficulty, however, is sometimes experienced in obtaining the depth 
 of snow on account of its drifting, and it is sometimes not easy to distin- 
 guisli whether snow is actually falling or merely being driven by the wind. 
 
 The character of the snow should be noted, w'hether it is in small round- 
 
ArPENUix. 441 
 
 (•(1 niassoH. or in rotrnlar rrvstals; also tlio conditions under wiiicli tliese 
 liiflVrent tbinis air piodiii-cd. 
 
 Tlie form and weiglit of iiailstones sliould he nottd, ivlK'thcr consir-tinj: 
 of alternate strata, the number of wliicli is im]i()rtant, of flocenlent snow, or 
 solid ice. or agiihitinations of antrular crystals, whether of a s))lierical form, 
 or that of an oldate splieroid. 
 
 The color of the snow should be oljserved in order to detect any ortran- 
 isms which it may contain, and also any seiliment which may n'm.,.ii after 
 evaporation, wiiether of earthy or vejietablc matter. 
 
 Clouds. — The cliaracter of the clouds .shoidd be described, and the direc- 
 tion of motion of the lower and the liii^her ones renistered. at the times 
 |)rescrii)ed for the other observations. Since the e.vpedition is well supplied 
 with photoiiiaj)hic apparatus, frequent views of the clouds and of the gen- 
 eral aspect of the sky shouhl be taken. 
 
 Airri))'(t. — Kvery phase of the aurora borealis will of course l>o recori^ed : 
 also the exact time of first ai)[icarance of the meteor, wlien it assumes the 
 tbrm of an aixli or a corona, and when any important change in its general 
 aspect takes place. The magnetic bearing of the crown of the arch, anil 
 its altitude at a given time, should be taken; also, if it moves to the south 
 of the ob.server. the time when it passes tlie zenith sliould be noted. Tlie 
 time and position of a corona are very important. 
 
 Two distinct arches have sometimes been seen co-existing — one in the 
 ea.st and the other in the west. In such an exhibition, the position of the 
 crown of each arch should be determined. Drawings of the aurora, witli 
 colored crayons, are very desirable. In lowc r latitudes a dark segment is 
 usually observed beneath the arch, the occurrence of which, and the degree 
 of darkness, should be registered. It also sometimes liappcns that a sud- 
 den precipitation of moisture in the form of a liaziness is ol)servcd to cover 
 the face of the sky during the shooting of the beams of the aurora. Any 
 appearance of this kind is worthy of attention. 
 
 Wave motions are sometimes observed, and it -would bo interesting to 
 note whether these are from east to west or in the contrary direction, and 
 whether they have any relation to the direction of the wind at the time. 
 The colors of the beams and the order of their changes may be important 
 in forming a tlieory of the cause of the phenomena. Any similarity of ap- 
 pearance to the phenomena exhibited in Geissler's tubes .should be noted, 
 especially whether there is any thing like stratification. 
 
 The aurora should l)e frequently examined by the spectroscope, and the 
 bright lines which may be seen carefully compared with one of Kirchoif's 
 maps of the solar spectrum. 
 
 To settle the (piestion as to the fluorescence of the aurora and its conse- 
 quent connection with the electric discharge, a cone of light reflected from 
 the silver-i)latcd mirror should be thrown on a piece of white ])ai)cr, on 
 which characters have been traced with a brush dipped in sulphate; of qui- 
 nine. By thus condensing the light on the paper, any fluorescence which 
 the ray may contain will be indicated by the appearance of the previously 
 invisible characters in a green color. 
 
44:2 APPENDIX. 
 
 Careful observations should bo uiude to ascertain wlictlier tlic aurora ever 
 appears over an expanse of tliielv ice, or only over land or open water, ice 
 beinuj a non-conductor of electricity. 
 
 The (piestion whetiier the aurora is ever accompanied witli a noise has 
 often been aijfitated, but not yet apparently detinitely settled. Attention 
 should bo given to this jjoint, and perhaps the result maybe rendereil more 
 detinite by the use of two ear-trumpets, one iri)plicd to each ear. 
 
 Accordin<f to Ilansteen, tlio aurora consists of luminous beams. ])arallel 
 to the dipping-needle, which at the time of the formation of the corona are 
 shooting up t)n all sides of the observer, and also the lower portions of 
 these licams are generally invisible. It is, therefore, interesting to observe 
 whether the auroral beams are ever interposed between the observer and 
 a distant mountain or cloud, especially wlien looking either to the east or 
 west. 
 
 The etlect of the aurora on the magnetism of the earth will l)e ob- 
 served by abnormal motion of the magnetic instruments for observing the 
 declination, inclination, and intensity. This ett'ect, however, may be more 
 strikingly exhibited by means of a galvanometer, inserted near one end of 
 a long insulated wire extended in a straight line, the two extremities of 
 which are connected with plates of metal plunged in the water, it may be 
 through holes in tlic ice, or immediately connectetl with the ground. 
 
 To ascertain whether the etfeet on tlic needle is due to an electrical cur- 
 rent in the earth, or to an inductive action from without, perhai)s the fol- 
 lowing variation of the ])receding arr:ingement would serve to give some 
 indication. Instead of terminating the wire in a plate of metal plunged 
 in the water, let each end be terminated in a large metallic insulated sur- 
 face, such, for example, as a large wooden disk, rounded at the edges and 
 covered with tin-foil. If the action be purely inductive, the needle of the 
 galvanometer inserted, say, near one end of the wire, would probably in- 
 dicate a momentary current in one direction, and another in the opposite, 
 at the moni'.nt of the cessation of the action. For the purpose of carrying 
 out this investigation, the Saiithsonian Institution has furnished the expe- 
 dition with two reels of covered wire, each a mile in length, one of which 
 is to be stretched in the direction, ])erhaps, of the magnetic meridian, and 
 the other at right angles to it. It would be well, however, to observe the 
 effect with the wires in various directions, or united in one continuous 
 length. 
 
 Ekrtricitij. — From the small amount of moisture in the atmosphere, and 
 the consequent insulating capacity of the latter, all disturbances of the 
 electrical equilibrium will be seen in the frequent production of light and 
 sparks on the friction and agitation of all partially non-conducting sub- 
 stances. Any unusual occurrences of this kind, such as electrical discharges 
 from pointed rods, from the end of spars, or from the fingers of the observ- 
 er, should be recorded. 
 
 A reg'-iar series of observations should bo made on the character and in- 
 tensif of the electricity of the atmosphere by means of an electrometer, 
 lurLislied with a polished, insulated, metallic ball, several inches in diam- 
 
APPENDIX. 443 
 
 otcr, and two piles of deluc to indirutc tlio character of the electricity, 
 whether + •»' — . and also suj)|)licd uitli a scale to nicasun-, l>y the diver- 
 gency of a neetlle, tJie degree of intensity. Tiiis instrnnient can be nsed 
 either to indicate the electricity of the air by induction or l)y conduction. 
 In the first case it is only necessary to elevate it above a normal jdane by 
 means of a llight of steps, say eight or ten feet, to touch the ball at this 
 elevation and again to restore it to its first position, when it will be found 
 charged with electricity of the same character as that of the air. Or the 
 ball may be brought in contact with tlie lower end of an insulated metal- 
 lic wire, to the upi)er end of wiiich is attaclied a lighted piece of twisted 
 paper whicli hud been dried after previous saturation in a solution of ni- 
 trate of lead. 
 
 Thunder-storms are rare in the Arctic regions, although they sometimes 
 occur; and in this case it is important to observe tlie point in the horizon 
 in which the storm-cloud arises; also the direction of the wind during the 
 passage of the storm over the place of the observer; and also the character 
 of the liglitning — whetiier zigzag, ramified, or direct; also its direction — 
 whether from cloud to cloud, or from a cloud to the earth. 
 
 Opticiil Phcninuenii. — ]\Iirage should always be noted, as it serves to in- 
 dicate the position of strata of greater or less densicy, which may be pro- 
 duced by open water, as in the case of lateral mirage, or by a current of 
 wind or warmer air along the surface. 
 
 The polarization of tlie light of the sky can be observed by means of a 
 polariscope, consisting of a plate of tourmaline with a slice of Iceland-sjjar. 
 or a crystal of nitre cut at right angles to its optical axis, on the side far- 
 thest from the eye. With this simjjle instrument the fact of polarization 
 is readily detected, as well as tlie i)lane in which it is exhibited. 
 
 Halos, parhelia, coronse, luminous arches, and glories should all be noted, 
 both as to time of appearance and any peculiarity of condition of the at- 
 mosphere. Some of these piienomena have been seen on the surface of 
 the ice by the reflection of the sun's beams, from a surface on which crys- 
 tals liad been formed by the freezing of a fog simultaneously with a similar 
 appearance in the sky, the former being a continuation, as it were, and not 
 a reflection of the latter. 
 
 In the latitude of Washington, immediately after the sun has sunk be- 
 low the western horizon, there freijucntly appear faint parallel bands of 
 colors just above the eastern horizon, which may very possibly be due to 
 the dispersion of the light by the convex form of the atmosphere, and also, 
 at some times, slightly colored beams crossing the heavens like meridians, 
 and converging to a point in the eastern horizon. Any apjiearance of this 
 kind should be carefully noted and described. 
 
 Meteors. — Shooting - stars and meteors of all kinds should be observed 
 with the spectroscope. The direction and length of their motion should 
 be traced on star maps, and special attention given at the stated periods in 
 August and November. A remarkable disturbance of the aurora has been 
 seen during the passage of a meteor through its beams. Any phenomena 
 of this kind should be minutely described. 
 
444 APPENDIX. 
 
 Ozone. — Tlio cxpcilitioii is I'limislicd witli a f|nantity of ozono test-paper, 
 observations witli wiiieh can oniy he rendered eoni|iaraI)le liy projeetin<r 
 ajrainst the sensitized paper a ^riven (inantity ofatnios|)iieric air. For this 
 jnirpose an aspirator should be used, wliieh may be maiie by fasteninir to- 
 getlier tno small easks. one of wliieh is tilled with water, with their axes 
 panillel. liy means of a pieei- of plank nailed aenws the heads, tiirounh the 
 middle of wliieh is ]iassed an iron axis, on which the two ea-ks nuiy be 
 made to revolve, and tlie full cask may reailily l>e placed above the empty, 
 so that its contents may gradually (k'scend into the latter. Durini; the 
 runnint;- of the water from the upjier cask, an etpial quantity of air is 
 drawn thn '"fh a small adjutage into a closed vessel and made to impinire 
 upon the te.-^t-paper. The ves.';el containing the test-paper should Ije united 
 with the as])irator by means of an India-rubber tube. 
 
 Mixal/aiuon.'i. — The conduction of sound diu'ing still weather, tlirough 
 the air over the ice, through the ice Jlself and through the w ater. may be 
 studied. 
 
 Evaporation of snow, ice, anil water may l)e measured by a balance, of 
 which the pan is of a given dimension. 
 
 Experiments on the resistance of water to freezing in a contined space at 
 a low temperature may be made with small bomb-shells closed with screw- 
 plugs of iron. The fact of the liipiidity of the water at a very low tempera- 
 ture may be determined by the percussion of a small iron bullet, or by sim- 
 ply inverting the shell, when the ball, if the lifpiid remains unfrozen, will 
 be found at the lowest point. It might be better, however, to em))loy ves- 
 sels of wrought iron especially prepared for the purpose, since the jiorosity 
 of cast-iron is such that the water will be forced through the jjores, e. tj.. 
 the lower end of a gun-barrel, whicli, from the smallness of its tliameter. 
 will sustain an immense pressure, and through which the percussion of 
 tlie inclosed bullet may be more readily lieard. Water, in a thin metallic 
 vessel, exposed on all sides to the cold, sometimes gives rise to hollow 
 crystals of a remarkable shape and size, projecting above the level surface 
 of the water, and exhibits phenomena worthy of study. 
 
 Ex])eriinents may lie made on regulation, tlie jilasticity of ice. the con- 
 solidation of snow into ice. the expansion of ice, its conducting power for 
 heat, and the various forms of its crystallization. The effect of intense cold 
 should be studied on potassium, sodium, and other substances, especially in 
 relation to their oxidation. 
 
 The melting point of mercury should be okserved, particularly as a means 
 of correcting the graduation of thermometers at low temperatures. The 
 resistance to freezing of minute drops of mercury, as has been stated, should 
 be tested. Facts long observed, when studied under new conditions. 
 scarcely ever fail to yield new and interesting results. 
 
 NATUKAI. HISTOKY. 
 
 Objects of natural histoiy c'^all kinds should be collected, and in as large 
 numbers as possible. For this purpose all on board the vessel, both officers 
 and sailors, should be required to collect, upon every favorable opportunity. 
 
APl'KXDIX. 44;-, 
 
 aiul to deliver the spcciimns olit;iinL'«l to tlioso appointed to liave cliarge 
 of tJRin. 
 
 ZooliKitj. — Tlie terrestrial inaninials of Greenland ari' i)retty well tmown, 
 lint it is still desiraMe that a sciics, as coniplctc as possible, of tlie skin> 
 should lie preserved, j^reat <-are heintr taken to always indicate, upon the 
 label to be attached, the sex and proliaiile ai,'e, as well as the h^eality and 
 date of eaptnre. Tlie skeleton, an<l, when it is not pos>ilile to get this 
 complete, any iletaehed bones. i)artienlarly the skull and attached cervical 
 vertebra-, are very desirable. Interesting soft i)arts, especially the brain, and 
 .also embryos, are very important. If it should be considered necessary to 
 record measurements, they should be taken from specimens recently killed. 
 
 Of walruses and seals there should be collected as many skeletons as 
 possible, of old and young individuals; also skins, especially of the seals. 
 Xotes should be nuide regarding the habits in geneial. food, period of eoj)- 
 ulation. '.luration of gestation, and time of migration, it being desirable to 
 tind out whether their migrations are periodical. 
 
 Of the Cefdcca, when these are too large to be taken on board the vessel, 
 the skull and cervical vertebrtv, the bones of the extremities and penis, and 
 whatever else may be deemeel worthy of preservation, should be secured. 
 All the animals should be examined for ecto- and ento-i)arasites, and the 
 means by which they become affixed to the animals noted. 
 
 Collect carefully the sj)ecies of MijoiUs (lemmings), AnioriDjx, and Artico- 
 la, so as to determine the variations with locality and season. The rela- 
 tionship of two kinds of foxes, the blue and white, should be studied to 
 <ietermine their specirtc or other relationship. Any brown bears shouhl 
 be ::areful!y collected, both skin and skeleton, to determine whether ideu- 
 tic.i! or not with the Old World Urmis Arctus. 
 
 Reference has already been made to the seals and cetaceans; of these the 
 Phoai eri!i(afa (the white whalej, IkliKju, and the Monodon are particularly 
 desired. 
 
 What has been said in regard to the mammals will ap])ly equally well to 
 the hinla — skins and skeletons being equally desirable. It is especially 
 imj)ortant that t\\Q fresh colom of the bill, cere, gums, eyes, and feet, or car- 
 uncles, or bare skin, if there be any, slxmld be noted, as the colors of these 
 parts all change after the preparation of a specimen. 
 
 Of birds, the smaller land species are of the greatest interest, and com- 
 plete series of them should be gathered. The northern range of the in- 
 sectivorous s])ecies should be especially inquired into. The Arctic falcons 
 should be collected in all their varieties, to ascertain whether there are two 
 forms, a brown and a white, distinct through life, or whether one changes 
 with age into the other. 
 
 Inquiry shoukl l)e directed to the occurrence of Bernida ki/copsis, Anser 
 '•inereiis, or other large gray geese, and the C(tmptol(vui>(s Labradoni ; and 'i 
 large number of specimens, of the latter especially, should be obtained. In- 
 deed the geese and ducks generally should form subjects ot si)ecial exam- 
 ination. Among the Laruhv the most important sj)ecies is the ]a<-us roxsii 
 or Wiodostethia rosea, scarcely known in collections. A large number of 
 
4-itJ ArrKNDix. 
 
 skiiiv Mini cLi^s will l>c a valual)lc aci|iiisiti<iii. Lurnx ilnrii-'in is aUi' 
 worthy iit'liciim cnllfctiMl. The A/ri'/n >li(nilil lie carct'iilly cxamiiUMl I'nr 
 any new tonus, ami ini|uiri('s ilircctcil in icnanl to tlu' A/rn li/ij,i uul.s. 
 
 Of all liirils" cu'^s an anij)le store siioiij.l he leathered; anil the skeletons 
 oTthc Arrfir nijif'urx and tiie Xatotnrtx licnerally. 
 
 It will he a matter of much iuii)ortanee to ascertain what is the extreme 
 northern ran^e of the continental species of hirds, and whether, in the 
 hiifhot latitudes, the European forms known to occur in (Jreenland cno- 
 liatlin Bay. 
 
 Eiiiis ami nests of hirds, in as larLre mimhers as possihlc, slu iild he pro- 
 cured, u'reat care heinij taken, iiowever, in all cases to identity them hy the 
 parents which may he shot, and some p(Utioii. if not all of them, preserved. 
 if not rcco^nizetl l)y the collector. All the en'^s of one set should lie mark- 
 ed witli the san\e numher, that they may not be separated; the parent 
 bird, if collected, likewise receiving the same numher. It should also he 
 .stated, if known, how long the eggs have been sat upon, as ineul)ation in- 
 fluences very much their color; the situation of the nest, also, is very im- 
 portant. Xotes on the manner of nesting, localities selected, and other pe- 
 culiarities of breeding, should be carefully kej)! ; whether they are jxilyga- 
 mous, whether there are struggles between t!ie males, and the manner in 
 which the old hirds feed their voung; and whether these remain helples> 
 in the nest for a given time, or whether they accompany the parents from 
 biith. A journal of the arrival and de])arture of the migratory species 
 should also be kept, to find out whether those which leave latest return 
 earliest, and tke versa. 
 
 Of fishes that are ol)tainod, the best specimens should be photographed. 
 the fresh colors noted, and then they should be 2>i'eserved in alcohol or 
 carbolic acid. 
 
 Among the tishes the Sdlmouiilr. C"ffiih(\ Gi'illdie, and Chqieida' will be 
 of most interest, and good series shouhl Iw secured. 
 
 The terrestrial inferior animals should be all collected, each class in its 
 appropriate way. 
 
 Try to get larva? of insects, and observe their life, whether they are well 
 adapted to their surroundings; fir in proportion to the insects are the num- 
 ber of insectivorous animals; and for that reason the struggle for life 
 woiild be more energetic, and. therefore, only those insects which are l)e>t 
 atlapted to the conditions will survive. 
 
 Inferior marine animals are usually collected by two methods, viz., witii 
 a pelagic net and by a dredge. IJoth these methods should he employed 
 whenever practical)le. Especial attention should be paid to the lar\;t, of 
 which sketches should he made. The results of the dredging sh<)uld be 
 noted in blanks printed for this purpose, the specimens to be preserved as 
 theii- constitutions require. MuUer's liquor, glycerine, solution of alcohol 
 and sugar, etc. 
 
 It would be of peculiar interest to study the several deep regions, ad- 
 mitted by Forties and others, to ascertain if in the Arctic regions the in- 
 tensity of color increases with the depth, as has been stated to hv. the case 
 
Ari'KNDlX. 447 
 
 with red and violet, wliicli, if true, would Ik- just the coiitnirv to wliat is 
 ol)st'rved in tlie temperate and tropical re!,'ions. 
 
 Ufslieli-i two sets should l)e |tre-(M\ ed, one dr\ and tiie other "•//// //„ ,/;). 
 itiKi/.m alcohol; tiie dry >iiell is necosary t'roni the fact that tiie alcohol. 
 l>y the acetic acid produced, is .apt to dotroy the color. 
 
 It is particularly important to yit as t'ull a series as possible of the nieni- 
 l)ers of the smaller families, with a view to the preparation of mono'.:rapli». 
 
 There should he paid as nuich attention as possilile to the fauna ot' fresh- 
 water hikes to ascertain whether tliey contain marine forms, .-is ha- hi in 
 fonnd to he the case witli some of those in North America, Scandinavia. 
 Italy, and other countries. From tiiis important conclusions rcirardinii' the 
 risini,' of the coast may he arrived at. 
 
 iSiitiiiiii. — Pliints are to he collcftcd in two ways. Of cacli species some 
 sjtecimens should he put in alcohol to serve for studyint,' the anatomy ; the 
 others to he dried l)etween sheets of hlottin;^'-paper. The locality of cad: 
 specimen shoiihl he noted, also its situatiini, the character of the soil and 
 heij^iit aI)ove the sea, the season, and whether there is hdintrnjiixinii^. etc.. 
 etc. In the ir<'ni'ral notes there should he remarks on the horizontal and 
 vertical ilistrihution. 
 
 OIvOI.OOY. 
 
 TIk' most important point in the collection of jjreolojiical specimens, 
 whether they consist of rocks, minerals, or fossils, is. that on hreakiny' or 
 di<,'<;in.iX them from the matrix or hcd, each individual specimen should he 
 carefully wra))ped separately in plialile l)Ut stroni;- paper, with a lal)rl des- 
 ij,ni!itim!; the exact locality from which it was obtained. If two or more 
 beils of rock (sandstone, limestone, clay, marl, or other material) occur at 
 the locality from which specimens are taken, thu label slionld also have a 
 number on it corrcs])on(lin!;- to the particular bed in which it was found, as 
 iksji^-iiated in a section made on the spot in a note-book. This should be 
 done in order that the specimens from eacii bed may Ijc separated from 
 those found in others, whether the beds are separable liy differences of com- 
 position or by differences in the <froui)s of fossils found in each; and it is. 
 moreover, often important that this care should be observed, even when one 
 or more of the beds arc of inconsiderable thickness, if such beds are charac- 
 terized by peculiar fossils. For in siich cases it often happens that what may 
 be a mere seam at one place may represent an important formation at another. 
 
 Specimens taken directly from rocks in place are, of course, usually more 
 instructive than those found loose; but it often hap])ens that much better 
 si)ecimens of fossils can lie found already weathered out. and lyiny dotai bed 
 about an outcrop of hard rock than can be broken from it. These can gen- 
 erally be referred to their jilace in the section noted at the locality, l)y ad- 
 liering portions of the matrix, or from tindinu more or less perfect examples 
 of the same species in the beds in place; but it is u-sually tlie better plan to 
 note on the labels of such specimens that they were found loose, especially 
 if there are any evidences that they may have been transijorted from some 
 other locality by drift agencies. 
 
 All exposures of rocks, and especially those of limestone, should 1 le care- 
 
448 APPENDIX. 
 
 fully examined for fossils, for it often Iiiippens that hard limestones antl 
 other rocks that show no traces of organic remains on the natural surfaces 
 (covered, as they often are, with liciiens and ni()s«cs). will he found to con- 
 tain fossils when brc'-.en into. In cases where fossils are found to e.xisc in 
 a hard ro(;k, if time and other circumstan(,'cs permit, it is desiral)le that it 
 should be vigorously broken with a heavy hannner provided for that pur- 
 pose, and as many specimens of the fossils as ])()ssibh' (or as the means of 
 trans|)ortation ^vill permit) should be collecte<l. 
 
 Fossils from rocks of all ages will, of course, Ijc interesting and instruct- 
 ive, but it is particularly tlesiralile that organic remains found in the later 
 tertiary and quaternary formations of these higli northern latitudes, if any 
 such exist there, should be collected. These, whether of animals or plants, 
 would throw nmch light on the questi(m resi^ecting the climatic conditions 
 of the Polar regions at or just preceding the advent of man. 
 
 Specimens illustrating the lithological character of all the rocks observed 
 in each district explored should also be collected, as well as of the organic 
 remains fcmnd in fossiliferous beds; also, of all kinds of minerals. Those 
 of rocks and amorphous minerals should be trimmed to as nearly the same 
 size and form as can conveniently be done — say three by four inches wide 
 and long and one and a quarter inches in thickness. Crystalline minerals 
 ought, of course, to be broken from the matrix, rather with the view of 
 preserving the crystals, as far as possib'e, than with regard to the size or 
 form of tiie hand s])ecimens; and the same remark applies equally to fossils. 
 
 On an overland journey the circumstances may not always be such as to 
 allow the necessary time to wrap carefully and label specimens on the .s])ot 
 wii(;re they Avere collected ; but in such cases numbers, or some other marks, 
 should b{! scratched with the j)oint of a knife, or other hard-pointed instru- 
 ment, on each, by means of which the specimens collected at different times 
 and places during the march can be correctly separated, labeled, and wrap- 
 ped when the party stops for rest. 
 
 All specimens should be packed tightly in boxes as soon as enough have 
 been collected to fill a Ijox, and a label should be attached to each box in- 
 dicating the particular district of country in which the collections were ob- 
 tained. For this purpose, empty provision boxes or packages can gener- 
 ally be used. 
 
 In examining sections or exposures of rocks along a shore or elsewhere, it 
 is a good plan to make a rough sketch in a note book, thus : " Section 1 : 
 
 Clay. 
 
 Shale. 
 
 8 feet. 
 
 T f jet. 
 
 Clay. 
 
 Sandstone. 
 
 12 feet. 
 
 12 feet. 
 
 LimestoD'?. 
 
 10 feet. 
 
APPENDIX. 449 
 
 Then, on the same or foHowing pages, more partieuhir descriptions of the 
 nature and composition of the several lieds shouUl be written, referri.ig to 
 eacli ))y its number. Sections ol'tliis kind should be niunbered 1, 2, H, and 
 80 on, in the order in which they were oljserved, and the specimens from 
 each bed ought also to be numbered on its lul>el, so as to correspond. That 
 is, specimens from the lowest bed of the tirst section should be, for instance, 
 marked thus: " Section No. 1, bed No. 1," and so on. The name of the lo- 
 cality, however, should also, as already sugg(!sted, be written on the labels 
 as a provision against the possil)le loss of note-books. 
 
 It generally ha])pens that an outcrop will show only a part of the beds 
 of which it is composed, thus : 
 
 5 
 
 Unexposed. 
 
 \. 10 feet. 
 
 7 feet. 
 X^^ 8 feet. 
 
 
 4 
 
 Limeatone. 
 
 
 3 
 
 Unexposed ppiicc. 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 Limestone. 
 
 
 
 11 feet. 
 
 1 
 
 Sandstone. 
 
 
 
 
 16 feet. 
 
 In such a case the facts should be noted exactly as seen, without any at- 
 tempt to guess at the nature of the material that may till the unexposed 
 spaces ; but generally, by com])aring different sections of this kind taken in 
 the same region, the entire structure of a district may be made out. 
 
 The dip and strike of strata should also be carefully observed and noted, 
 as well as the occurrence of dikes or other outbursts of igneous rocks, and 
 the effects of the latter on the contiguous strata. 
 
 All evidences of the elevation or sinking of coasts should likewise be 
 carefully observed and noted. 
 
 Especial attention should be given to glacial phenomena of every kind, 
 such as the formation, size, movements, etc., of existing glaciers, their abrad- 
 ipg and other efl'ects upon the subjacent rocks, their fonnation of moraines, 
 etc. ; also, the formation, extent, and movements of icebergs, and their pow- 
 er of transporting masses of rock, etc. 
 
 At Cape Frazier, between lat. 80° N. and long. 70° W., Dr. Hayes found 
 some upper silurian fossils in a hard gray limestone. This rock doubtless 
 has a rather wide extension in the country referred to, as other explorers 
 have brought silurian fossils from several localities fartiier southward and 
 westward in this distant northern region. Should the party visit the lo- 
 cality from which Dr. Hayes collected his specimens, it is desirable that as 
 complete a collection as possil)le should be obtained, as most of those found 
 by Dr. Hayes were lost. 
 
 For making geological observations and collecting geological specimens, 
 very few instruments are required. For determining the elevations of mount- 
 tiins and the general altitude of the country, a barometer is sufficiently ac- 
 
 29 
 
450 APl'ENDIX. 
 
 curate. For local elevations of leas extent, a pocket-level (Locke's) should 
 be provided. Tape-linos are also useful for measuring? vertical outcrops 
 and other purposes; and a <^ood pocket-compass is indispensable. The lat- 
 ter sliould have a clinometer attaclied. 
 
 A good supply of well-tempered cast-steel hammers should also l)e pro- 
 vided. They should be of various sizes and forms, and ought to l»c made 
 with large enough eyes to receive stout handles, of wliidi a good nmnlter, 
 made of well-seasoneil hickory, should be pre])ared. Chisels of different 
 sizes should also be prepared of well-tempered steel. 
 
 A pouch of leatlier or stout canvas, with a strap to pass over the shoul- 
 der, will be found useful to carry specimens for short distances. 
 
 GLACIEUS. 
 
 The progress of our knowledge of glaciers has disclosed two sides of the 
 subject entirely disconnected with one another, and requiring different 
 means of investigation. The study of the structure of glaciers as they ex- 
 ist now, and the phenomena connected with their fonnation, maintenance, 
 and movement, constitute now an extensive chapter in the ))hysic3 of the 
 globe. On the other hand, it has been ascertained that glaciers had a 
 much wider range during an earlier, but nevertheless comparatively recent 
 geological i)eriod, and have i)roduced during that i)eriod phenomena which, 
 for a long time, were ascribed to otlier agencies. In any investigation of 
 glaciers nowadays, tiie student sliould keep in mind distinctly these two 
 sides of the subject. He ought also to remember at the outset, what is now 
 no longer a mooted point, that, at different times during the glacial i)eriod, 
 the accumulations of ice covering larger or smaller areas of tlie earth's sur- 
 face have had an ever-varying extension, and that whatever facts are ob- 
 served, their value will be increased in proi)ortion as the chronological ele- 
 ment is kept in view. 
 
 From the physical ])oint of view, the Arctic expedition under the com- 
 mand of Captain Hall may render science great service should Dr. Bessel 
 have an opportunity of comparing the present accumulations of ice in the 
 Arctic regions with what is known of tlie glaciers of the Alps and other 
 mountainous regions. In the Alp:^, the glaciers arc fed from troughs in the 
 higlier regions, in which snow accumulates during the whole year, but mon; 
 largely during winter, and by a succession of changes is gradually trans- 
 formed into harder and harder ice, moving down to lower regions where 
 glaciers never could have been formed. The snow-like accumulations of 
 the upi)er regions are the materials out of which the compact, transparent, 
 brittle ice of the lower glaciers is made. Whatever snow falls upon the 
 glaciers in their lower range during winter melts away during sunnner. 
 and tiiC glacier is chiefly fed from above and wastes away below. The wa- 
 ter arising from the melting of the snow at the surface contributes only in- 
 directly to the internal economy of the; glacier. It would be su])crfluou8 
 here to rehearse what is known of the internal structure of glaciers and of 
 their movement; it may be found in any treatise; cm glaciers. Nor would 
 it be of any avail to discuss the value of ccmflicting views concerning their 
 
APPENDIX. 451 
 
 motion. Suffice it to say that an Arctic explorer may add jjreatly to our 
 knowledge l)y stating distinctly to what extent the winter snow, falling 
 ujton the surface of the great glacial fields of the Arctic, melts away <lur- 
 ing summer, and leaves Ijare an f)ld icy surface covered with fragments of 
 rock, sand, dust, etc. Such an iucjuiry will teach us in what way the great 
 masses of ice which pour into the Arctic Ocean are formed, and how the 
 supply that empties annually into the Atlantic is replenished. If the win- 
 ter snows do not melt entirely in the lower ])art of the Arctic glaciers dur- 
 ing summer, these glaciers must exhibit a nuicli more regular stratification 
 than the Alpine glaciers, and the successive falls of snow must in them be 
 indicated more distinctly by layers of sand and dust than in those of the 
 Alps by the dirt bands. Observations concerning the amount of waste of 
 the glaciers by evaporation or melting, or what I have called ahlathm of the 
 surface during a given time in different parts of the year, would also be of 
 great interest as bearing upon the hygrometric condition of the atmosphere. 
 A pole sunk sufficiently deep into the ice to withstand tlie effects of the 
 wind could be used as a meter. But it ought to be sunk so deep that it 
 will ser\e for a period of many months, and rise high enough not to be bu- 
 ried by a snow-storm. It should also be ascertained, if possible, whether 
 water oozes from below the glacier, or, in other words, whether the glacier 
 is frozen to the ground or separated from it by a sheet of water. If prac- 
 ticable, a line of poles should be set out with reference to a rocky peak or 
 any bare surface of rock, in order to determine tlie motion of the ice. It is a 
 matter of deep interest with reference to questions connected with the for- 
 mer greater extension of glaciers, to know in what manner flat sheets of ice 
 move on even ground, exhibiting no marked slope. It may l)e possible to 
 ascertain, after a certain time, by the change of position of poles sunk in 
 the ice, whether the motion follows the inecjualities of the surface or is de- 
 termined by the lay of the land and the exposure of the ice to the atmos- 
 pheric agents, heat, moisture, wind, etc. It would be of great interest to 
 ascertain whether there is any motion during the winter season, or whether 
 motion takes place only during the period when water may trickle through 
 the ice. The jiolished surfaces in the immediate vicinity of glacier-ice ex- 
 hibit such legible signs of the direction in wliich the ice moves, that wher- 
 ever ledges of rocks are exposed, the scratches and furrows upon their sur- 
 face may serve as a sure register of its progress ; but before taking this as 
 evidence, it should, if possiljle, be asceitained that such surfaces actually be- 
 long to the area over which the adjoining ice moves during its expansion, 
 leaving them bare in its retreat. 
 
 The geological agency of glaciers Avill no doul)t receive additional evi- 
 dence from a careful examination of this point in the Arctic regions. A 
 moving sheet of ice, stretching over a rocky surface, leaves such unmistak 
 able marks of its ])assage that rocky surfaces which have once been glaci- 
 ated, if I may thus express the ])eculiar action of ice upon rock.«3, namely, 
 the planing, polishing, scratching, grooving, and furrowing of their sur- 
 faces, can never be mistaken for any thing else, and 'may everywhere be 
 recogniz(!d by a practiced eye. These marks, in connection with trans- 
 
452 APPENDIX. 
 
 ported loose materials, drift, and boulders, are unmistakal)le evidence of 
 the great extension which glaciers once had. But here it is important to 
 discriminate between two sets of facts, wliich have generally been con- 
 founded. In the proximity of existing glaciers, these marks and these ma- 
 terials have u direct relation to the present sheet of ice near by. It is plain, 
 for instance, that the polished surfaces about the Grimsel, and the loose ma- 
 terials lying between the glacier of the Aar and the Hospice, are the work 
 of the glacier of the Aar when it extended beyond its present limits, and 
 step by step its greater extension may be traced down to Meyringcn, and, 
 in connection with other glaciers fr(mi other valleys of the Bernese Ober- 
 land, it may be tracked as far as Thun or Berne, when the relation to the 
 Alps becomes complicated with features indicating that the whole valley 
 of Switzerland, between the Aljjs and the Jura, was once occupied by ice. 
 On the other hand, there are evident signs of the former presence of local 
 glaciers in the Jura, as, for instance, on the Dent de Vaulion, which mark a 
 later era in the history of glaciation in Switzerland. Now the traces of the 
 former existence of extensive .sheets of ice over the continent of North Amer- 
 ica are everj'where most plainly seen, but no one has yet undertaken to de- 
 termine in what relation these glaciated surfaces of past agey stand to the 
 ice-fields of the present day in the Arctics. The scientific men connected 
 with Captain Hall's expedition would render science an important service 
 if they could notice the trcyid and bearing of all the glacial scratches they 
 may observe upon denudatcd surfaces wherever they land. It would be 
 advisable for them, if possible, to break off fragments of such glaciated rocks, 
 and mark with an arrow their bearing. It would be equally imjjortant to 
 notice how far the loose materials, pebbles, boulders, etc., diSer in their min- 
 eralogical character from the surface on which they rest, and to what ex- 
 tent they are themselves polished, rounded, scratched, or furrow-ed, and also 
 what is the nature of the clay or sand which holds them together. It would 
 be i)articularly interesting to learn how far there are angular boulders among 
 these loose materials, and what is their position with reference to the com- 
 pacted drift made up of rounded, polished, and scratched pebbles and 
 l)oulders. Shoulil an opportunity occur of tracing the loose materials of 
 any locality to some rock in situ, at a greater or less distance, and the na- 
 ture of the materials should leave no doubt of their identity, this would af- 
 ford an invaluable indication of the direction in which the loose materials 
 have traveled. Any indication relating to the differences of level among 
 such materials would add to the value of the observation. I have purpose- 
 ly avoided all theoretical considerations, and only call attention to the facts 
 which it is most important to ascertain, in order to have a statement as un- 
 biased as possible. 
 
 ■f Ueports from Captain C. F. Hail to the Secretary of t?ie Navy. 
 
 United States Steamship Polaris, Brooklyn Navy Yard, 
 June 16, 1S71. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honor to report, agreeably to your instructions, that the 
 
 steamship Polaris, under my command, left Wasinugton Navy Yard at 12.30 
 
APPENDIX. 453 
 
 P.M., Saturday, 10th inst,, and arrived at the Brooklyn Navy Yard at 7 
 o'clock A.M., VVedne.sday, 14th inst., in sixty-two hours runninf^ time, hav- 
 injj anchored two niffhts und laid over another ni<^lit at Quarantine. The 
 working of the engine was (juite eiiual to my expectations, and with some 
 slight alterations of machinery, suggested l)y Mr. M'Kean, who will have 
 reported to the Department, will, it is helieved, prove entirely satisfactory. 
 The officers and crew have taken hold of their work with energy and ex- , 
 emj)lary conduct. * * * j Jiope to be in readiness for sailing within a 
 week or ten days. 
 
 I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 C. F. II.\ix. 
 Commandiiij; United States North Polar Expedition. 
 
 Hon. Geo. M. Robeson, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Steamship Polaris, Brooklyn Navy Yard, •June 27, 1B71. 
 Sir, — I have the honor to report the due receipt of my official instruc- 
 tions, bearing date 9th inst., and waiting my arrival here on the 14th inst., 
 but not heretofore formally acknowledged. I have also received official 
 letter, 24th inst., witli printed copies of the official instructions ; likewise, 
 by preceding mails, the printed blanks, in six languages, for deposit in 
 copper cylinders, etc. In reply to in(iuiries, 24th inst., I beg to state that I 
 hope to have tlie expedition in entire readiness to sail on the 29th inst., 
 having had two or three days' unavoidable detention, and shall spare no 
 exertions to tliat end. I shall then hope to reach St. Johns, Newfoundland, 
 on or before the lOtli of July, and II()lsteinl)org, Greenland, on or about the 
 25th of July prox. Before sailing I shall have the honor to report some- 
 what more in detail. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 C. F. Hall, 
 Commnnding United States North Polar Expedition. 
 Hon. Geo. M. Robebom, Secretary of the Navy, Washington. 
 
 United States Steamship /»o?arj«, Harbor of New London, 
 Connecticut, July 2, 1S71. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that * * * * i left New York 
 with the Polaris on the 29th of June, at 7 o'clock p.m., and passing through 
 Hell Gate came to this port, where I arrived at 11 a.m. of the ;iOth. 
 
 It was my intention to proceed on my cruise directly from New York, up 
 to the middle of the afternoon of the 29th, but finding that my assistant 
 engineer, Wilson, had really run, that it was difficult to get a reliable en- 
 gineer with whom I was acquainted to fill his place at New Yo'-k, and 
 thinking it would be imprudent to go to sea with only one engineer, I re- 
 solved to run into tliis port and procure one, where I was well acquainted, 
 and where I knew T should succeed in getting one to suit me. In this I 
 have been entirely successful. I have employed m Wilson's place Alvin A. 
 Odell, who served during the last war of the rebellion as an acting assistant 
 engineer of the navy, and was honorably discharged. 
 
 While at New York, it became necessary to turn into hospital Nathaniel 
 
454 APPENDIX. 
 
 J. Coffin,* our carpenter. His place is not filled. It is my intention to fill it 
 with a serviceable man at St. Johns, Newioiuulland, at the same rate that 
 was to be allowed him. 
 
 The following changes in my muster-roll have occurred since I left Wash- 
 ington with the ship : 
 
 1. T. L. Herggien, fireman, deserted. 
 
 2. William Jessup, seaman, deserted. 
 
 3. John I'orter, steward, discharged for incapacity, 
 
 4. Charles Branett, cook, deserted. In the placL' of Branett I shipped 
 Joseph W^olf, who also deserted. 
 
 5. I have shipped an excellent cook here at New London, by the name 
 of William Jackson, of Arctic experience. 
 
 6. William Lintlermann, seaman, shipped in pla(;e of W'illiam Jessup. 
 
 7. By consent of Admiral M. Smith, I shipped Frederick Jamka, as ad- 
 ditional seaman, on the 37th of June. 
 
 8. In the place of Berggren, I shipped at New York John W. Booth, an 
 experienced fireman. * * * 
 
 It is my purpose to go to sea to-morrow morning at 3 o'clock. ♦ * ♦ 
 Inclosed is muster-roll of the oflUcers and crew. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, C. F. Hall, 
 
 Commanding North Polar Expedition. 
 Hon. Geo. M. Rousson, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 
 
 [B'/ Telegraph from New London, " 'necticut.] 
 
 Jnly3,1871. 
 To Hon. Geokge M. Robeson : 
 
 Sir, — The Polans, at this hour, 4 o'clock a.m., under way, going out of 
 
 New London harbor for sea. Tlie company now all of glorious material, 
 
 and with bright hopes. Letter by mail. C. F. Hall, 
 
 Commanding North Polar Expedition. 
 
 United States Steamship PoZam, St. Johns, 
 Newfoundland, July 19, 1S7L 
 SfR, — I beg to advise you that the ship is now all ready to proceed. For 
 the last two days I have been detained in endeavoring to obtain a carpen- 
 ter, but have not succeeded, and therefore leave without one. It has taken 
 a full week to repair the steam machinery. * * * 
 
 Your obedient servant, C. F. Hall, 
 
 Commanding North Polar Expedition. 
 Hon. Geo. M. Koblson, Secretary of the Navy, Washinfiton, U. C. 
 
 Holsteinborg, Greenland, August 1, tS71, 
 Lat CC° 57', long. 53° 6i>' 46". 
 
 Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that, in accordance with my letter 
 dated July 19, 1871, at St. Johns, Newfoundland, the Polaris left that port 
 
 •Natlianiel J. CoflBn was sent in the Congress to rejoin the Polarix. 
 
AITENDIX. 455 
 
 at 3.30 P.M. of the same day, and proceeded direct to Greenland, in compli- 
 ance with your orders. On the afternoon of July 27, we dropped anchor in 
 the harbor of Fiscanacs, (ircenland, one of the Danish ])orts, lat. 03' H' N., 
 where the expedition remained until the mornin<^ of Jjly 29, when we took 
 our course alons? up the coast to this place, arriving here at 10 o'clock a.m., 
 July 31, yesterday. 
 
 We were aj^rceahly surprised, on entering ITolsteinhorg harbor, to find in 
 it the Swedish exjjcdition, consisting of a brig and a small steamer, under 
 the command of Fr, W. Von Otter, which had been to Disco and Uper- 
 navik, and is now on its return, ])rop()sing to resume the homeward voyage 
 to-day, via St. Johns, Newfoundland. The commander kindly offering to 
 forward any dispatches I may have for you, I gladly improve the oppor- 
 tunity. 
 
 With the exception of a gale that broke upon us on the evefiing of the 
 day we left Fiscanaes — a gale that made the sea, with its icebergs all around 
 us, vie in wild grandeur with " Greenland's icy mountains," along which 
 we were coasting — the weather has been exceedingly line from W^ashington 
 to Ilolsteinborg. 
 
 I should sooner than this have remarked that the object of stopping at 
 the port of Fiscanaes was to secure, i ♦"possible, Hans Christian, the Esquimau 
 dog-driver and hunter of Dr. Kane's expedition up Smith Sound, and later, 
 of Dr. Hayes's expedition, 18G0-'G1, in the same direction ; l)ut there we as- 
 certained that this native was at Upernavik. The Swedish expedition not 
 only confirm the news that Ilans is at Upernavik, but add that he is anx- 
 iously awaiting the arrival of the American North Polar expedition, that he 
 may join it. 
 
 From St. Johns to this place the Polaris has been under steam, with the 
 exception of a little over two days, one of which we were becalmed, and 
 waited through the day for a Ijreeze. Tifty tons of coal were consumed 
 from St. Johns to this port. Northerly winds have prevailed, but what has 
 l)een unfavorable to our sailing has cleared the west coast of Greenland of 
 the ice-pack, leaving us, beyond all doubt, a clear passage to the northward 
 of Baffin Bay. 
 
 The Swedish expedition bring highly favorable news from Upernavik : 
 that the season for Arctic navigation is better than known for several years ; 
 that no ice, save occasional bergs, is to be found between here and Disco, 
 and between the latter place and Upernavik none has been seen for several 
 weeks. 
 
 Governor Elberg, of the Ilolsteinborg district, residing here, has proffered 
 our expedition all the aid he can. I flwl in him the same genial soul as in 
 1860, when I spent seventeen days in this harbor. 
 
 Your orders anj that, if I do not hear of the transport before reaching 
 Holsteinborg, for me to remain at that (this) port waiting for her and the 
 supplies as long as the object of the expedition will permit a delay for that 
 purpose. After waiting as long as is safe, undjr all these circumstances, as 
 they may present themselves, I am, if I do not hear of the transport, to pro- 
 ceed to Disco. 
 
456 APPENDIX. 
 
 In ronipliancc witli those instnictions, I remain here wiiiting for the 
 transport, say till Saturday niorninfr, Auf,'i]st 5; then, if nothinj? is seen or 
 heard of her, the anclior of the Polnrin will he weighed, and our course 
 taken for Goodhavn (Lively), in the island of Diseo. 
 
 On arriving there my plan will he to make arrangements for sending on 
 a native force hiiraediately, to raise about tifty tons of coal at the Rittenhek 
 mine, situated near the extreme eastern angle of Diseo Island. Specimens 
 of this coal, whicli is bituminous, Baron Von Otter has just exhiliited to me. 
 It is found to he of fine (juality for steaming pui-poses, and must be made 
 to answer our necessities in case the transport does not arrive at Goodhavn 
 by the loth of August, the latest day I can prudently delay in resuming the 
 voyage for the North Pole. I am confident, however, that the transport will 
 be in time for the expedition at the proposed places of rendezvous. Gov- 
 ernor Elbcrg has only fifteen tons of coal (brought here in a Danish sliip) 
 on hand, and signifies his willingness to let me have two-thirds of it. He 
 informs me that it is quite doubtful our getting a supply at Disco, other- 
 wise than by mining it, as already foreshadowed. 
 
 I expected to get a supply of reindeer furs here, but none are to be had. 
 the reindeer, of late years, having been nearly all killed ofl"in this neighbor- 
 hood. On Disco, Upernavik, and Smith Sound, we must depend for our 
 winter furs and our sledge-dogs. 
 
 Baron Von Otter, of the Swedish expedition, has paid two visits to the 
 Polarln, taking deep interest in its object. He has kindly furnished me, 
 for you, an abstract of his work performed since leaving Upernavik. [See 
 table on opposite page.] 
 
 The columns of latitude and longitude will show to you the eastern limit 
 of the ice-pack in Davis Strait, a matter in Avhich you will be interested, 
 as it demonstrates the wide iceberg channel for the PoUiris to navigate 
 through in her u])ward course. * * * 
 
 The whole ship's company have continued in good health and spirits 
 since leaving New York, and all remain sanguine tliat next year our dis- 
 covery will be the North Pole. I have the honor to be, (<ir, 
 Your obedient servant, C. F. Hall, 
 
 Commanding United States Nortli Polar Espedition. 
 Hon. Geo. M. Roueson, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 United States Steamship Polaris, Goodhavn, Greenland, Atigust 17, 1S71, 
 Lat. 69° 14' 41" N., long. 53° 34' W. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honor to report the proceedings of the North Polar ex- 
 pedition since sending you my dispatches from Holsteinborg, dated August 
 1, 1871, which dispatches were forwarded by the hands of Baron Von Otter, 
 commanding the Swedish expedition. Therein I indicated to you my 
 purpose to remain at Holsteinborg till Saturday, August 5, for the trans- 
 port, and then, if it had not arrived, to weigh the anchor of the Polaris and 
 proceed at once to this port. I, however, only waited till the p.m. of Au- 
 gust 3, when I took my departure, arriving here at Goodhavn at 2 p.m. of 
 the 4th, just twenty -four hours from the time of leaving Holsteinborg. I 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 467 
 
 DEEP-SEA SOUNDINGS AND SEA TEMPEUATrRES OBTAINED ON BOARD OF HIS 
 SWEDISH MAJESTY'S STEAM VESSEL /.V(.A,V;/i7M, BETWEEN THE LATITIDES 
 OF HOLSTEINBORO AND UPERNAVIK, JULY, 1871. 
 
 
 where 
 t% were 
 1. 
 
 
 s 
 
 TEMPEBATUHE. 
 
 
 
 Surface. 
 
 Bottom. 
 
 Date. 
 
 «|i 
 
 4 
 
 a 
 
 
 RiMiKKi: Intermediate larfue tempenture. 
 
 
 
 si's 
 
 ~ 
 
 'Z SwriliKh 
 
 Mill Cm. 
 
 
 
 
 = ll 
 
 a 
 
 a. ttierrnoiii- 
 
 thertnulU' 
 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 i 
 
 & , «'«'• 
 
 eter. 
 
 
 
 July. 
 
 (Di wo.) 
 
 c. 
 
 F. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Mouth of X. Fiord, 
 
 M + 6.6 
 
 80 
 
 + 6.!i. 
 
 
 10 
 
 8 miles off tlie eald 
 Fiord. 1 
 
 27 , + 4.6 
 
 35.5 
 
 + 0.0, 0.0, 6.2, 6.8, 6.6, 6.0, 0.0. 
 
 
 10 
 
 70 22 N. 64 22 W. 
 
 146 + 6.0 
 
 27.0 
 
 + 6.0. 6.8. 2.0. 2.0. 3.0. 4..5. 
 
 
 11 
 
 70 -ie N. 54 20 W. 
 
 161 -j- 4.6 
 274 + 7.0 
 
 28.6 + 4.5; 5.0, C.O, 5.0, 7.8, 8.0, 8,5, 4.3, 4.0, 
 
 7.0. 
 
 12 
 
 70 :« N. 52 00 W. 
 
 26.75 + 7.0, 8.0. (Amonc tilacier-ice.) 
 
 
 13 
 
 70 43 N. 52 0:t W. 
 
 410 + 7.0 
 
 24.26 
 
 + 7.0, 8.0, 8.2, 10.0. 
 
 
 13 
 
 70 r,3 N. 52 IS W. 
 
 ;i97 + 8.0 
 
 27.0 
 
 + 10.0, 10.0, 10.0, 6.0, 10.0. 
 
 
 13 
 
 71 07 N. 52 42 W. 
 
 2;!5 
 
 -j-4.0 
 
 20.76 
 
 + 10.0, s.O, 6.0, t<.S, 9.0, 4.0. 
 
 
 14 
 
 71 27 N. 53 58 W. 
 
 122 
 
 27.0 
 
 + 6.0, 9.0, .5.0, 6.0, 4..5, 7.5, 8.2, 8.6, 7.0, 
 
 0.0, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 7.0, 6.2, 6.0. 
 
 ) 
 
 IS 
 
 72 37 N. 66 62 W. 
 
 67 
 
 -i- 6.8 
 
 26.0 
 
 + 6.0, 4.2, .5.3, 5.0, 6.6. 
 
 i 
 
 18 
 
 72 32 N. 58 OH W. 
 
 116 
 
 + 4.2 
 
 26.76 + 4.2, .i.e. 2.B, 3.4; 
 
 
 10 
 
 72 20 N. 69 'M W. 
 
 172 
 
 + 3.4 
 
 2,5.75 + 1.5, 0.8, 0.,5, 1.5. 1 
 
 
 19 
 
 72 04 N. 59 .'.O W. 
 
 227 
 
 + 1.2 
 
 26.75 + 1.8. 5.0, 4.5. .^0. 
 
 oi 
 
 20 
 
 71 10 N. 58 M W. 
 
 1(19 
 
 -f 6.2 
 
 25.75 
 
 + 6.0, 6.0, 0..5, .5.6, 6.O., 2.6, 3.8. 
 
 s 
 
 21 
 
 70 23 N. 59 01 W. 
 
 j 
 
 276 
 
 + 1.6 
 
 23.76 
 
 + 1.5, 1.0, 0.2, 0.2, 0.8, 1.6, 0.8, 0.0, 0.5, 
 
 1.5. 
 -- 1.5, 2.4, 0..5, 0.2, 1.0. 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 69 62 N. 68 32 W. 
 
 199 
 
 + 1.6 
 
 26.0 
 
 ■ l 
 
 82 
 
 1 
 
 69 19 N. 68 IS W. 
 
 183 
 
 -- 1.2 
 
 26.0 
 
 - - 1.0, 5.0, 3.0, 4.0, 3.0, 2.0, 2.6, 3.6, 4.0, 
 0.2, 4.0, 2.0, 0.0, 0..5, O.S, 0.2, 1.0. 
 
 i 
 
 24 
 
 68 08 N. 68 47 W. 
 
 169 
 
 + 1-4 
 
 27.26 
 
 -- 1.4, 0.5, 0..5, l.!5, 1.0, 0.0, 1.0, 1.8, 0.8, 
 -- 1.(1, O.S, 1.0, 3,(t, 0,2, 1,2, 0.0, 0.0. 
 
 tt 
 
 24 
 
 67 57 N. 5!) 07 W. 
 
 279 
 
 + o.s 
 
 26.0 
 
 c 
 
 25 
 
 67 26 N. 5S 45 W. 
 
 930 
 
 ± 0.0 
 
 25.0 + 0.0 (amoiicr hfiivy ice), 0.5, 0.0. 
 
 < : 
 
 26 
 
 67 20 N. 68 29 W. 
 
 692 
 
 + 0.4 
 
 25.5 + 0.4, 2.0, 2.0, 2.5. J 
 
 
 26 
 
 67 43 N. 57 27 W. 
 
 128 
 
 + 3.2 
 
 31.0 ± 3.4, 4.8, 4.2, 0. 
 
 
 26 
 
 67 50 N. 67 04 W. 
 
 132 
 
 + 4.0 
 
 31.0 + 4.2, 4.8 6.0. 
 
 
 26 
 
 67 59 N. 56 33 W. 
 
 98 
 
 + 4.8 
 
 31.76 + 5.(1, 4.8. 
 
 
 ye 
 
 68 08 N. 66 03 W. 
 
 48 
 
 + 6.1 
 
 30.75 + 5.0, .5.2. 
 
 
 27 
 
 68 20 N. 64 .65 W. 
 
 264 
 
 + 6.4 
 
 31.76 + .5.0, .^..-i. 
 
 
 27 
 
 68 27 N. 6t Hi W. 
 
 215 
 
 + 4.6 
 
 31.76 + 5.5, 4.6. 
 
 
 2T 
 
 68 01 N. 54 47 W. 
 To Holsteiubdig... 
 
 131 
 
 + 6.9 
 
 32.0 + 4.6, 6.9. 
 + 5.9, 4.8. 
 
 
 Holsteinborg, August 1, 1S71. 
 
 Fb. W. Von Ottkr, 
 Commanding Swedish Greenland E.^pedition. 
 
 soon found that the highest official of North Greenland, Karrup Smith, 
 chief inspector, was not at home, but was on his annual tour to the princi- 
 pal settlements of his district, and was not expected to return for two or 
 three weeks. I lost no time, however, in paying ray respects to the inspcci- 
 or's lieutenant, Fr. Lossen, who received me very cordially. As he could 
 converse only in the Danish tongue, the wife of Inspector Smith became our 
 interpreter. On explaining to Lieutenant Lossen the object of the expe- 
 dition visiting this port, he exhibited some degree of hesitation in render- 
 ing to it that aid and co-operation we had a right to expect ; but great 
 was my success when the Hon. -Mrs. Smith voluntarily took upon herself 
 the task to advocate warmly the necessity of the Danish Government, 
 through all its officials, to aid, in whatever way and to whatever extent 
 might be desired, so f^reat and glorious a country as the United States. 
 By the advice of the chief inspector's wife, Mrs. Smith, I sent off a boat- 
 
458 APPENDIX. 
 
 party to atti'inpt to find and recall her husband. First Mate II. C. Ches- 
 ter was till' orticer I dotailod for tills service. He l^'ft here at meridian of 
 Aufjust G for Jucol) Iluvcn, hit. Mf lij' N., lon^'. r,V 00' W., and not tind- 
 injf tlie inspector there, proceeded northward to Rittenbek, lat. 09- 41' N., 
 lou^'. 51" 13' W., where he was found. The inspectoral once responded 
 to my rcf[uest, and arrived here with his boat, in company of Mr. Chester's, 
 at 2 A.M. of Auf^ust 11. Mr. Chester performed this service with alacrity 
 and fidelity. The whole distance voyaged was one hundred and seventy- 
 tive miles, and performed entirely under oars, except two hours' sailing. 
 
 Before the return of Mr. Chester and the arrival of Inspector Smith, the 
 United States steamship Cf/itgrtHX, under the command of Captain Davenport, 
 came into port, relieving me of a mountain load of an.viety. This eventful 
 day was August 10. I have omitted to state that, before leaving Ilolstein- 
 borg, I wrote out full particulars of my puq)oses and plans for infonnation 
 of the commander of the transport on her arrival there, and left the same 
 in charge of Governor Elberg, with instruction.s that the same should be 
 dispatched by ])oat to the transport the moment she should appear in the 
 ofting, that the delay in making harbor at Ilolsteinborg might be obviated. 
 Captain Davenport, in his zeal and great go.yd judgment, had decided, how- 
 ever, to crowd on all sail direct from St. Johns, Newfoundlanil, to Good- 
 havn (this port). I had made uj) my mind, and had so stated it in my let- 
 ter left at Ilolsteinborg for the commander of the transport, to prolong our 
 stop at this port to August 15, and not later, for the trans|)ort ; in the mean 
 time to obtain coal, as indicated in my letters to you from Ilolsteinborg. 
 
 On the arrival of the inspector of North Greenland, Karrup Smith, he 
 signified at once liis readiness to extend to the North Polar expedition all 
 fhe aid and co-operation as desired by your letters to him. The large Gov- 
 ernment store-house he has thrown open for the stores and provisions to be 
 left here on deposit for tlic future use of the North Polar expedition, and 
 take the same in trust, promising to have all possible care taken of them 
 by his people till called for. In proof of the spirit with which Inspector 
 Smith enters into this expedition, in behalf of the Danish Government he 
 represents, all com))ensation is refused for the use of said store-house and 
 for the trust referred to. 
 
 There are two persons in the employ of the Danish authority at Uper- 
 navik, the same being within the district of Inspector Sm.ith, that I con- 
 sider will be of great service to the expedition I have the honor to com- 
 mand, and therefore, after mature consideration, I have concluded that I 
 shall meet your approval in trying to secure their services. The one is 
 Hans Christian, the dog-driver and hunter of Dr. Kane's expedition of 
 1853-'55, and the other a Dane, by the name of Jensen, formerly of Dr. 
 Hayes's expedition. Hon. Inspector Smith, although short of help in Gov- 
 ernment service, assures me that every possible exertion will be made by 
 him, and by those in authority under him, to supply these men to this ex- 
 pedition. * * * 
 
 At meridian, the anchor of the Polaris will be weighed, when her prow 
 will be turned to the north. 
 
Al'I'KNDIX. 459 
 
 In two (lays wc oufjlit to bo, and shall most likely 1)0, in tho port of 
 Upernavik ; on concludinf^ Imsinoss thoro, which will occupy two or three 
 days, the only work remaining to be done will be to push on directly for 
 tho North Pole. 
 
 The season being so far advanced, my plan and purpose is now, that on 
 arriving at the cape, your orders direct me to make Cape Dudley Digges, 
 to steam directly for Smith Sound, and thence make all i)ossiblo attempts 
 to find passage on the irat side of the sound from Cape; Isabella, up to 
 Kennedy Channel, and thence on and up to the very pole itself. It is ad- 
 visable that a deposit of j)rovision8 and ammunition should l)e made from 
 the Pohtrin on some island near Cape Alexander, at the entrance oast side 
 of Smith Sound, for our preservation in case she should become ice-wreck- 
 ed in the desperate battle she is about to engage, and for which she has 
 been so thorougldy prepared by a most thoughtful and liberal Government. 
 This is a most extraordinary open season for Arctic navigation, as reported 
 l)y all who have already tried it, therefore your honor may rest assured that 
 this expedition will imjjrove the opportunity to its fullest extent. 
 
 I close this hasty dispatch by acknowledging the reception of your letter 
 of Juno 18, inclosing the appointment of Mr. Geo. E. Tyson as assistant 
 navigator, also that of ilr. Odell as assistant engineer of the Polaris, which 
 appointments I have delivered to these; parties, giving them great satisfac- 
 tion and encouragement. I have the honor to be, yours, respectfully, 
 
 C. F. Hall, 
 Commanding the ITnited States Polar Expedition. 
 
 Hon. Geo. M. Robeson, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Note. — I ought not to close this dispatch without expressing to the 
 Preddent, to yoit, and to my God, my heart's gratitude for the perfect man- 
 ner in which every thing has been carried out by your Department to in- 
 sure success in the object had in view by the Congress of the United 
 States. Your obedient servant, C. F. Hall. 
 
 IIou. Geo. M. KoiiESON, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 United States Steamship Polaris, Upernavik, Greenland, August 20, 1S71, 
 North lat. 72° 46' ; west long., 50° 02'. 
 
 Sir, — I have the honor to report the progress of the United States steam- 
 ship Polaris since August 17, 1871, the date of my las', dispatches, which 
 were to be delivered to you by Captain Davenport, commanding the United 
 States steamship Congress. 
 
 I heaved anchor and left the harbor of Goodhavn at % p.m., August 17, 
 after an aifectionate farewell from the commander and officers of the Con- 
 gress, who, by your order, have given me all possible assistance in carry- 
 ing out the final arrangements of the expedition. 
 
 At the moment of starting, Hon. Karrup Smith paid me a short visit, 
 bidding farewell, and intrusting to my care a package to the address of Dr. 
 Rudolph, governor of Upernavik, whom he acquainted with the character 
 of the expedition, and instructed in regard to my wants. 
 
4f;0 AITENDIX. 
 
 Hon. Karriip Smith also infortnc*! me Jic lia<l Ifamr-d from a DaniHti ves- 
 Hcl at an(hr»r onthido the harbor, that Dr. Kiidolph was about to h-ave 
 Upcrnavik and rr-turn to Denmark on a Danish vessel loaded with Idiibber 
 and skins, aceuniulated at Upernavik diirinj^ the preeedinj^ year. Know- 
 inf; my prineipal object in proceeding to Upernavik, whi(;h i.4 tliat of pro- 
 eurinf^ skinH and Hecurinf^ the services of Hans Christian and Jensen, he 
 adviscil me to mak(; all possible speed diirinf^ the voyrtj^e tf» Upernavik in 
 order to liave an interview \vith (ioverr.or Itiidolph, in whose wiliin^^ness 
 and capal.»ility of (-omplylng with my wishes he placed the fullest con- 
 fidence. 
 
 Traversing a distance of two hundred and twenty-five miles in thirty- 
 three and a half hours, W(! arrived at 11, W I'.M., August IH, at Upernavik. 
 where, after experiencing some difficulty in arousing the inhabitants from 
 their deep slumbers, Mr. Elberg, tlnf new governor of the settlement and 
 son of the well-known governor of Holsteinborg, immediately arrived on 
 board the vessel with the hoped-f<jr tidings of Dr. Kiidolph's presence at 
 Upernavik. To him I intrusted the letters of Hon. Karruj) Hniith to Dr, 
 Rudolph, whf; sof)n afterward gave me the pleasure of his amiable ac- 
 ()uaintanee in company with Governor Elberg. 
 
 Most readily and cordially (Governor liudolph complied with all my 
 wishes, and agreed to dispatch two kyactks (one-man boats of tlu; natives), 
 with letters to Hans (Jhristian, of Proven, about fifty miles to the south- 
 ward, and to Jensen, of Tossac, the same distance to the northward, in- 
 forming them of my desire of their services, and to secure their readiness 
 of leaving their respective residences whenever one of our boats should 
 call on Hans, and the steamship on Jensen. 
 
 Governor Kudolph also proposed that Governor Elberg should accom- 
 pany me on our voyage to Tossac, in order to assist me in se(!uring the 
 services of Jensen, procuring dogs, dog and seal skins, and whatever might 
 be required, and also to enable Jensen, who holds the position of govern- 
 or of Tossac, t<^) leave his post by transferring the public ])ropeity and ac- 
 counts to some other suitable person. 
 
 I have also, by the courtesy of Dr, Rudolph, l»cen enabled to procure 
 some dogs, dog and seal skins, as also a small addition of coal. 
 
 At Ji'^on of August 19, 1 dispatched a boat and boat's crew, under com- 
 mand of Mr, Chester, the first mate, with orders to proc(!ed to Proven and 
 return with the utmost speed with Hans Christian and family, when I at 
 on(;e shall heave anchor and start for Tossac. 
 
 P,8. — The Danish brig, which is to return to Denmark with Governor 
 Rudolph, and also to carry our mail, starts at midnight, and I therefore am 
 compelled to close my report ; but I may nmiark that Governor Rudolph, 
 who has been in this portion of the country for a period of over thirty 
 years, thinks this year to be more favorable for any northern voyage than 
 any year gone or to come. 
 
 Mr, Chester has returned with Hans Christian and family, traversing a 
 distance of one hundred miles in a remarkably short time, considering that 
 he had to depend upon oars, the wind being most unfavorable during the 
 
APPENDIX. 461. 
 
 I'Dtin: time. He reached Proven iit 11 r.M., AtigUHt 19, and wtartcd on his 
 return at H a.m., August 20, arriving here at H.'M) 1'..m. 
 
 My intention to Htart on the arrival of Mr. Clienter I am eom])clled to 
 nUamhm, an Governor Klberg, who will kindly assist me in securing tlie 
 services of Jensen, and procuring an a<lditional supply of furs, can not 
 leave this place before 12 o'clock to-morrow, and I therefore liave set this 
 time for our departure. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 (.". F. IlAi.r,, 
 Commaiuliog United States Nuvul I'ulur Expedition 
 lion. Geo, M.Roiiehon, Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 Augmt 21, 12,;}0 a.m. Just received news from Tossac that Jensen is will- 
 ing to uccoui|)uny the expedition. 
 
 C. F. Hall. 
 
 Imtructiom to Captain Davenpout, 
 
 Navy Department, July 18, 1871. 
 
 8in, — As soon as the United Ptates steamship Congrcm, under your com- 
 mand, is ready, and lias re(;eived on board the stores for the use of tJie ex- 
 pediti(m toward the North Pole, you will proceed with her, with all dis- 
 patch, l)y such route as you may find most expeditious, to the coast of 
 Greenland. 
 
 If you can make, without any extraordinary risk, tlie port of Jiively, in 
 the island of Disco, you will proceed to that place and deliver to the steam- 
 ship J'olur'iH the stores you have for the use of the expedition, taking the 
 receipt of Captain Hall for the same, if you fin<l the Polarin there, of if sho 
 arrives within a reasonable time. Should she not arrive at Lively, how- 
 ever, within a reasonable time after your arrival there, you will land your 
 supplies for her, and see them stored, if jiossible, under the direction of the 
 authorities, to be delivered to Captain Hall on his arrival. 
 
 If you lind that you can not safely enter the port of Lively, in Disco, you 
 will make the best of your way to Holsteinborg, and there deliver your 
 stores to tlu; PohiriH, or leave th(!m for her in like manner as above directed, 
 after waiting for her there for a reasonable time. If you find the Polaris at 
 IIolst(!inborg, an<l learn that tlie (hmfjrcHii can enter Lively, jiroceed in com- 
 pany to that port; or if you should at Holsteinborg, or otherwise, learn that 
 she has proceeded to Lively, you will endeavor to reach her there, as it is 
 the earnest wish of the Department that the Polarin receive on board her 
 stores at that port, if possible. In case of the happening of any contin- 
 gency not contemplate*! by these instructions, the Department must leave 
 the course to be pursued to your judgment, with the understanding and 
 direction that you are sent for tlu! puqmse, if practicable, of actually com- 
 municating and leaving the supplies with the PohiriH at Lively, and \f ^ot 
 practicable there, then at Holsteinborg; and that it is of the greatest im- 
 portance that she should receive the supplies, and at a port as near Lively 
 as possible; and that if, for any n^ison, you should not be able to commu- 
 nicate with iier or hear of her before the season makes it necessary for you 
 
462 AITENDIX. 
 
 to leave, you arc to leave the supplies for her, as above directed, at Lively, 
 if possible, and if not, at Ilolsteinhorg. 
 
 In any event, it may be well, if you can do so without too much delay, 
 to endeavor, on your way to Lively, to conimunicate with Ilolsteinborjj, 
 and ascertain the whereabouts t<f the Polnrin. If she has not arrived there. 
 you can leave word of your departure to Disco, and instruct Captain Hall 
 to follow you without delay. 
 
 I inclose, for your information and guidance, a pamphlet which contains 
 the orders issued I)y the Department to Captain Hall. I nlso inclose a let- 
 ter to tlie Danish authorities at Lively or Holsteinborg, requesting them to 
 render you assistance and facilities in prosecuting your duties under these 
 orders. * * * Very respectfully, etc., 
 
 Geo. M. Robeson, 
 
 Srcretary of the Navy. 
 Captain II. K. Davknpobt, 
 
 Commanding United States Steamship Congress, New York. 
 
 The Secretary of the Navy to the Danish Authorities. 
 
 Navy Uepartmeut, July 18, 1S71. 
 Sin, — The United States steamship Congregx, under the command of Cap- 
 iain II. K. Davenport, of the United States Navy, visits the port within your 
 jurisdiction for the purpose of delivering supplies to the expedition to- 
 ward the North Pole, under the charge of Charles F. Hall. 
 
 In the event of the CongresH not meeting the PohtriH on her arrival, and 
 of her being compelled to return to the United States before the vessels can 
 communicate, I have given directions that the supi)lie8 be stored until Cap- 
 tain Hall iirrives in the port to receive them. 
 
 I have the honor to request that you will afford to the commander of the 
 CongrcsH such assistance and facilities as may be in your power and consist- 
 ent with your duty toward your Government to enable liim to oliey the 
 orders from this Department. Accept the assurance that any and all helj) 
 you may be able to render Captain Davenport will be appreciated and ac- 
 knowledged by the Government of the United States. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, Geo. M. Robeson, 
 
 Secretary of the Navy. 
 Ills Danish Majkstv's Govkbnob, at Lively, or Holsteinborg, 
 Coast of Greenland. 
 
 Letters from Captain H. K. Davenport to the Secretary of the Navy. 
 
 United States Steamship Conr/resa (second rate), 
 St. Johns, Newfoundland, August 2, 1871. 
 
 Sib, — I sent you a telegram announcing ray arrival at this port on the 
 let inst. 
 
 I made the passage from New York in five days and eighteen hours, un- 
 der steam and sail. The weather was light, dense fog prevailing most of 
 the way, so much so that I got observations of the sun but on three occa- 
 
APPENDIX. 463 
 
 sions. I have filled up with coal, and lioi)c to do as well the remainder of 
 the voya<^e. * + * 
 
 I expect to return to this port about the first week of Sei)toml)('r ; but if 
 I am not "up to time"' there need be no cause for anxiety, as the winds 
 may be unfavorable for a quick passaj^e, in addition to detention at Disco. 
 
 I was surprised to learn that the I'olnvin left here only six days prior to 
 my arrival. She will not be many davs ahead of me in arriving at Disco, 
 unless some imforeseen occurrence impedes my progress. 
 
 Tiie first icebergs which we have seen were otf this port. There were 
 about fifteen in sight at one time ; .something of a i»remonition of what we 
 are to expect. I shall telegraph you inunediately on my return. 
 
 As the mail leaves here but once a fortnight, the consul will telegraph 
 you when we get off. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, II. K. Davknpoht, 
 
 Captain, CommaudiDg Congress. 
 
 Hon. Geo. M. Robkhon, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 
 
 United States Steamtihip CoMjrcHit (second rate). At sen, August 21, 1871, 
 Lilt. 03° 48' N. long., 58° 3' W. 
 
 Sib, — I inclose copy of a correspondence between liis Danish Majesty's 
 inspector at Gpodhavn (Port Lively) and myself, which speaks for itself. 
 
 If what I said meets Avith the ajjproval of the Department, I trust that 
 the recognition of the civilities extended to the Congress and the Polaris 
 will not be lost sight of by the Government. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, H. K. Davenport, 
 
 • Captain, Commanding Congress. 
 
 Hon. Geo. M. Roubso.v, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 
 
 GoodhavD, August 12, 1871. 
 
 Deak Sik, — I intended this forenoon, accompanied by Mrs. Smith, to pay 
 a visit to you and to Captain Davenport, but feeling myself not quite well, 
 and adding to this the bad weather, I beg you to excuse me for not paying 
 my respect.s to-day. You would oblige me very much by giving Hon. Cap- 
 tain Davenport my compliments, and pray him to excuse this delay. 
 
 At home I am at your service, if you should wisli any information that I 
 am able to give. I beg you, .ir, to give ray thanks to Dr. Bessel for the 
 great care he takes of our sick peoph;. 
 
 The store-house of the opposite shore is open to you — when you address 
 to Mr. Lessen — whenever you wish to commence removing the provisions ; 
 but it is necessary to r 'ace lowest such things that are not damaged by 
 moisture. 
 
 I beg you be so kind as to tell me at what time the service of the Sunday 
 will be over, as I hope then to have the honor of visiting the Polaris and 
 the Congress, I am, dear sir, very res2)ectfully yours, 
 
 Earkup Smith. 
 
 Hod. Captain C. F. Hall, United States Steamship Polaris. 
 
464 APPENDIX. 
 
 Ooodhuvn, August IS, IsA. 
 Sin, — It was a groat honor and satisfaction to mc, l»y your letter of ye»- 
 tcrdiiy, to receive your acknowledj^nient of our good will concerning the 
 ships of the United States, Co/i'jnm and Pottirin. 
 
 By tills I assure that every effort shall be made to keep the deposit for 
 Pol^iriH 'nstrusted to our care as safe as our own stores. 
 
 I am, sir, with the highest respect, your obedient .servant, 
 
 Kauuup Smith, 
 
 Inspector in North Greenland. 
 Flon. Captain Da vknpobt, etc., etc., etc. 
 
 Commanding' United States Steum»Iiip Congress. 
 
 United States Steamsliip Conjfrc** (second rate), 
 Goodiiavn, Disco, Au;,'ust 7, ls71. 
 
 Siu, — On the eve of my departure for the United States, I embrace the oc- 
 casion to exjjress my warmest acknowledgments for the kindness and court- 
 esy which you have been good enough to extend to myself and those under 
 my comuiand, as well as to Captain Hall and the expediti(jii which he has 
 in charge ; but more than all, for the promptness with which you placed 
 the Government store-house at my disposition for the stores of the Polaris. 
 
 I shall not fail to luring to the attention of the Government these mani- 
 festations of good will which have characteri/.cd Ills Danish Majesty's rep- 
 resentative in this part of his dominions, and 1 am sure that I but antici- 
 pate the recognition of these civilities l)y the Secretary of the Navy of the 
 United States, through our minister at Copenhagen. 
 
 In bidding you adieu, I beg leave to subscriijc myself, with high respect, 
 your obedient servant, II. K. Davenpout, 
 
 Captain United States Navy, Commanding Congress. 
 
 His Danish Majesty's Inspector, 
 
 Kaukit Smitu, Esq., etc., etc., etc., GoodhavD. ' 
 
 United States Steamship Cow^rew (second rate), 
 St. Johns, Newfoundland, Au;^ust 28, ISTl. 
 
 Sm, — I beg leave to submit the following detailed report of my proceed- 
 ings since leaving this port on the 3d of August. 
 
 I left St. Johns early on the morning of that date and proceeded, under 
 steam or sail, or both, as circumstances warranted, direct for Goodhavn* 
 (Port Lively), in the island of Disco. 
 
 Nothing of special interest occurred during the passage. We passed 
 numerous icebergs, but, fortunately, fell in with no " pack-ice," the season, 
 so I am informed, being unusually open. 
 
 I arrived at Goodhavn on the 10th of August, seven days from St. Johns, 
 and fifteen from New York, including two days' stoppage here, coaling 
 ship — less tlian thirteen running days. 
 
 On approaching the harbor, a boat was observed coming out, on board 
 of which was Captain Hall, of the Polaris. He came on board, and accom- 
 
 * Ooodbavu is the proper name of the port. The Danes do not call it Port Lively. 
 
AITENDIX. 465 
 
 panicd mc in to tlio ancliomgc. His di'lijfht at seeing the Congrem was 
 unspeakable; but it fell sliort of liis astonishment at the rapidity of my 
 passage, and the dispatch of the Department in forwarding the supplies for 
 his expedition, particularly as he himself had arrived at Goodhavn but six 
 days before nie. * * * 
 
 As soon as I ancliored, I rccptostcd Captain Hall to call upon the Inspect- 
 or of North Greenland — this is the proper title of the chief functionary of 
 tlie Danish Government in that part of tiie world, the title of governor re- 
 ferring to the local magistrate of the settlement — and inform him that 1 
 would call the next day to pay my respects to liim, etc., etc. 
 
 Accordingly, the next morning, the 11th, at 11 o'clock, accompanied by 
 Captain Ilall, I landed, in full uniform. As soon as I touched the shore, 1 
 was saluted by a battery of six-pounders, and was met by the governor, or 
 local magistrate. The inspector received me at his door, with eveiy mark 
 of official and personal respect and consideration. Upon entering his 
 house we were presented to his wife, who was our inter{)reter throughout 
 our visit, although her husband, to a limited degree, understood and spoke 
 English. After being seated and the usual piirases of common politeness 
 had been interchanged, I presented liini with your letter, and took occasion 
 to make a few remarks touching the object of my visit; the interest of our 
 Government and people in the expedition of Captain Hall ; and assured 
 him that any attention, civility, or courtesy, extended to Captain Hall or 
 his associates, by the Dani.sh authorities throughout Greenland, would be 
 heartily appreciated by the President of the United States, and would be 
 duly acknowledged by our Government. I did not say much, but I en- 
 deavored to " speak to the point " — Hall's expedition. 
 
 Inspector Smith, after expressing his pleasure at seeing mc, replied that 
 he would do all in his power to further the views of our Government ; that 
 he would assist Captain Hall in every possible way in his power, and that 
 he was sure the authorities throughout Greenland would, with pleasure, 
 give him a helping hand ; anil added that the Government store-house was 
 at my immediate disposal, for the stores which I had on board for the Po- 
 laris. * * * 
 
 My visit was agreeable in every respect, and I left with the assurance on the 
 part of the inspector that every thing which we wanted would be granted, 
 in so far as their means would admit, with promptness as well as pleasure. 
 
 On the 12th — the day after the above — I hauled the Polaris alongside of 
 the Cimgress and put on board of her all the coal, provisions, and stores she 
 could carry. After disposing of her, I landed the residue, putting the pro- 
 visions and stores in the Government store-house ; and built a " crib " out- 
 side, into which I stored the coal. 
 
 On the 17th, the Polaris being ready for sea, I went on board, made a 
 few remarks to the officers and crew, at the request of Captain Hall, and 
 bade them farewell. She got under way at 2 o'c ick p.m., and, amidst the 
 cheers of my ship's company, took her departure for the Polar regions. 
 The day was beautifully bright, and the temperature that of a May morn 
 in the latitude of Washington. 
 
 80 
 
466 APPENDIX. » 
 
 On the 19th of August, at 7 o'clock a.m., I got under way, and left Good- 
 havu for this port. Throughout my stay in tiiat hospitable though hyper- 
 borean region, every thing was done by the authorities whicii courtesy or 
 politeness could indicate. * * * 
 
 Inspector Smith kindly volunteered and accompanied a p^.rty from the 
 ship to visit a glacier, some nine miles from the anchorage. VVc had to 
 go four miles in a boat, and proceeded thence on foot, five miles, over 
 the worst imaginable route, through bogs, over hills, mountains, and down 
 rocky valleys, enough to appall one who had never seen such a country; 
 and all this, too, with a knowledge of what he would have to encounter, 
 having been over the route before. He led the way, as our guide, witli a 
 degree of modesty and perseverance which won not only our admiration 
 and astonishment, but also our warmest regard, respect, and esteem. 
 
 On the 17th I had the honor of ente/taining the inspector and wife at 
 dinner in my cabin, and tried as best I could to reciprocate, in my feeble 
 way, the civilities of which I had been the recipient. They had previous- 
 ly aiforded me the pleasure of their company to a luncheon, u])on which a 
 number of the officers of the ship were good enough to assist me in enter- 
 taining them. 
 
 The Department will, I trust, overlook the prolixity of this letter, when 
 it is remembered that it is a " detailed report," which I hoi)e may not be 
 without interest. * * * 
 
 I am happy to say that all were in good spirits, and perfect harmony 
 prevailed on board of the Polaris when she left Goodhavn ; and I may add 
 that the presence of the Congress — there may be something in iier name — 
 had a charmingly beneficial influence upon the entire ship's company of 
 that little craft, in addition to the impression which she made upon the in- 
 habitants of Goodhavn. She is the largest ship which has ever entered 
 that port, either man-of-war or merchantman, and the largest they had ever 
 seen, and her dimensions filled with admiration and amazement all who 
 visited her, from the chief functionary to the most humble Esquimau. 
 
 When I left Goodhavn, I had but three and a half days' coal on board, 
 and for the first twenty-four hours after leaving carried both steam and 
 sail to drive me through the narrow part of Davis Strait, where I stopped 
 the engines, put out fires, and made the rest of my way under sail alone, with 
 variable winds, calms, and gales, until I got within two hundred miles of St. 
 Johns, when I lighted fires and ran into port, arriving here at 3 o'clock p.m. 
 i In conclusion, I beg leave to say that I have carried out the views and 
 instructions of the Department, with an honest zeal, to the best of my abil- 
 ity and understanding, and with all the dispatch of which I was capable. 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, H. K. Davenpokt, 
 
 Captain, Commanding Congress, 
 Hon. Gio. M. RoBEBOK, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Note. — I omitted to mention, in its proper place, that the salute fired in 
 my honor, on landing, was duly returned, and also that the inspector was 
 received with proper military honors when he visited the ship, and a salute 
 of fifteen guns was fired on his leaving, H. K. D. 
 
APPENDIX, 467 
 
 Prayer at the North Pole. 
 
 Written for the use of the North I'l.lur Expedition, by Kev. Dr. Newman, of WashinRton, to be 
 
 used only on reaching the Pole, 
 
 Great Gofl of the universe! our hearts are full of joy and gladness for all 
 Thy marvelous goodness unto us. We have seen Thy wonders upon the 
 deep, and amidst the everlasting hills of iee, and now we beiiold the glory 
 of Thy power in this place so long secluded from the gaze of civilized man. 
 Unto Thee, who stretchest out the north over the empty place, and hangest 
 tiie earth upon nothing ; who hath compassed the waters with bounds until 
 day and night come to an end ; we give Thee thanks for what our eyes now 
 behold, and for what our hearts now feel. 
 
 Glory he to God on high, and on earth peace, good will toward men ! We 
 praise Thee ; we bless Thee ; we worship Thee ; we glorify Thee ; we give 
 Thee thanks for Thy great glory, O Lord God, our heavenly King ! God the 
 Father Almighty! Praise Him all ye His works. Praise Him sun, moon, 
 and stars of light. Praise Him ye heaven of heavens, and ye waters that be 
 above the heavens. Praise the Lord from the earth, ye dragons and all 
 deeps, lire and hail, snow and vapor, stormy winds fulfilling His word; 
 praise Him frost and cold, snow and ice, day and night, summer and win- 
 ter, seas and floods. Praise Him all ye rulers and peoples of the earth. 
 Let every thing that hath breath praise the Lord. Glory be to the Father, 
 and to the Sou, and to the Holy Ghost, as it was in the beginning, is now, 
 and ever shall be, world without end. 
 
 In Thy name, O Lord, we consecrate this portion of our globe to liberty, 
 education, and religion, and may future generations reap the advantage of 
 our discoveries. Bless the nation that sent us forth ; bless the President of 
 our great republic ; bless all the people of our favored land, whose national 
 banner we now wave over this di.stant country. 
 
 And now may the God of our fathers guide and direct our returning foot- 
 steps to those who wait to greet us with joy in the homes and land we love. 
 May no evil befall us ; no sin stain our souls ; no error lead us astray from 
 Thee and duty. Hear us for the sake of Him who hath taught us to pray : 
 Our Father who art in Heaven, hallowed be Thy name; Thy kingdom 
 come; Thy will be done on earth as it is in heaven ; give us this day our 
 daily bread; forgive us our trespasses as we forgive them who trespass 
 against us ; lead us not into temptation, but deliver us from evil ; for Thine 
 is the kingdom, the power, and the glory forever. Amen ! 
 
 Extract of Letter from J. Carson Brevoort, Esq.., to the Editor. 
 
 " Brooklyn, December 20, 1873, 
 * * * "The Polaris expedition was an official one, and I had nothing 
 to do with it beyond lending to Captain Hall a few books, and consulting 
 with him about his pmosed line of search. I do not know whether the 
 ' Blue-books ' were saved or not. * * * Kane had a lot of my books with 
 him in the Advance, which he abandoned in Rensselaer Harbor ; Hayes had 
 
46S APPENDIX. 
 
 some, which have been returnod. Hull had a copy of * Luke Fox's Voyage 
 of IB^o,' uiul it bears an indorHcmeiit as follows : 
 
 " ' This book belongs to m^ friend, J. Carson Brevoort. 
 
 " To-iiioirow, Ma'cli ',i\, niysolf ami native party, consisting of 13 souls, start 
 
 on my ledge-journey to King William Laud. 
 
 ♦"C. F. Hall, 
 
 " '29th (Snow-house) Enc't, near Fort Hope, Repulse Bay, 
 
 Lat. C(i° 32' N., h)Ug. 86° SC W. 
 " ' Friday, March 30, 1866.' 
 
 " I value this highly, as yon may snpposo. TTall brought me a pair of 
 walrus-teeth, from King William Land, and a nmsk-ox skin and horns. Ilia 
 object, as you perhaps know, on this trip was to discover the records of the 
 Franklin expedition of 1845 by ])assing a summer on King William Land. 
 But his i)lans were frustrated by the hostility of the natives, and the timid- 
 ity of some of his own party. 
 
 " Soon after his return he announced to me his determination to induce 
 the Government to send out a Polar expedition, and he jjushed the scheme, 
 like another Columbus, untiringly and i)atiently. He was the only real 
 and genuine leader of the Polarin expedition. Had all the others been, like 
 himself, enthusiastic, and im])ressed with the like ambitious purpose, the 
 Polaris would have wintered near the pole itself, and have co7ne out tunr 
 Spitzhergen or Ik/iriiuj /Strait. He was a prudent, far-seeing leader witl.;»l, 
 counting on having to meet all possible obstacles from natural causes, but 
 had left out of his calculations the opposition he might meet from those 
 less zealous than himself. I warned him on this last point, and cautioned 
 him about his companions. If you liave read the story of Columbus and 
 of the Pizarros, or of Sebastian Cabot and Captain Sperts, you will under- 
 stand what he must have felt when forced to turn away from the thresliold 
 of the Polar basin. 
 
 " Hall never put his full thoughts on paper, and his letters are more of a 
 business than of a scientific nature. He preferred talking over his plans 
 with those who understood him. His nature was gentle, kind, and patient. 
 His companions, Ebierbing and Tookilooto (Joe and Hannah) now at Gro- 
 ton, near New London, can bear testimony to his uniform gentleness and 
 sympathetic, unselfish disposition. His own published book is full of out- 
 pourings of this description, and further testifies to his deep and fervent 
 Christian convictions. 
 
 " I could write much more about Hall, whom I admired, respected, and 
 loved, both as a leader and as a man, but I must close. 
 
 " Any thing that I have here said you may use ; but I feel that it is not 
 much to the purpose. Yours respectfully, 
 
 " J. Carson Bkevoort." 
 
 To E. Vale Blake. 
 
 Carbondale, Peun., December 22, 1ST3. 
 Your letter was received quite recently, having laid a long time in the 
 Secretary's office, and this will excuse my not answering it before. 
 
AI'l'ENDIX. 469 
 
 In ansv.pr to your question respect iii!? tlic "lookout kept up for those 
 sepiuate<l from tlie ship on the eve of the l.'itli of Oetoher, 1872," I will 
 state the facts as far as they came under my observation. As soon as it 
 was lifj^ht enou<rh to ce, Mr. Chester was sent to the mast-head with a 
 glass to look for onr comrades. He reporteil tliat he s.tw on a piece of ice 
 what appeared like barrels and boxes of provisions, but could not see any 
 thin<j that looked like men. I believe that Henry Hobby also went to the 
 mast-head with like success. We were not at all surprised when we lieard 
 that they could not be seen. * * * During the winter I greatly regretted 
 that I did not go up to the mast-head myself, but I never had an idea that 
 I would have seen them. * * * We might have interested the natives in 
 their iiehalf, however. Give my regards to Captain Tyson, whom I hope 
 soon to ste. Kespectfully yours, 
 
 R. W. D. BUYAN. 
 
 OFFICIAL EXAMINATION OF THE POLARIS SUR- 
 VIVORS. 
 
 Wnshinfrton, October 11, IST.l, 
 On Board United States Steamship Tallapoosa. 
 
 Present, Hon. Geo. M. TJobeson, Secretary of the Navy ; Commodore Rey- 
 nolds, and Captain Howgate, of the Signal Service. The principal queries, 
 addressed to all the parties examined, related — 1st, to the possibility of get- 
 ting farther north than 82'^ 16'; 2d, to the circumstances of Captain Hall's 
 death ; JJd, to the abandonment of the Polaris; 4th, to the kind and amount 
 of effort made by the party on shore to get sight of their late companions 
 left adrift on the ice-floe; and, 5th, as to special facts of interest, scientific 
 or otherwise, observed by the witnesses. 
 
 The first examined was Captain S. O. Buddington ; he testified to the ef- 
 fect that he did not think the Polaris could have made any farther north- 
 ing than she did ; that he " did not see any chance to get north " of lat. 
 83° 16' ; also, tjiat it was impossible to keep the Polaris afloat after the 
 storm on the 15th of October, 1872. The journal of events which he pre- 
 sented to the Board of Inquiry was written for him by Mr. Mauch. "No 
 formal survey of the ship was held " to decide c/n her sea-worthiness after 
 they got ashore; that the "original log-books were buried at Life-boat 
 Cove," and only copies brought home. In regard to Captain Hall's death, 
 he thought it resulted from natural causes. As for the ice-floe party, he 
 said that Mr. Chester was up aloft " nearly the whole time, from the time 
 we started in until we got ashore," and that he sent Mr. Hobby up ; that if 
 the ice-floe party had been seen, he could not have reached them. He " did 
 not think there was any refraction " on October 16. In regard to the charges 
 which had been made against him by members of the ice-floe party, he ad- 
 mitted nearly every thing except as to Lis unwillingness to go north, which, 
 
470 APPENDIX. 
 
 ID his opinion was impossil>lo ; lie admits, however, sayinp to Noah Ilays, 
 in re<;ur(l to some carpenter's shavin^^s, "Tliey will do for the devilish fools 
 on the sledge journey." This he says Captain Hall, to whom it referred, 
 overheard. lie also admitted the oeeurreiice of a ditliculty with Captain 
 Hall at Disco; also breaking open a locker, which broiiglit on himself a 
 reprimand from Captain Hall; also that Captain Hall had written a letter 
 addressed to him containing strictures upon his comluct, which letter Cap- 
 tain Hall subsequently i)urned; also admitted the general charge of drink- 
 ing, and the specific charge of taking surreptitiously Dr. Hessel's alcohol, and 
 of an altercation with the doctor al)')nt it ; did not tiiiiik lie was at any time 
 incapacitated for duty in consequence. Speaking of Captain Tyson, he .said 
 that the latter was in the habit " of complaining bitterly about the manage- 
 ment generally," but they had no trouble to speak of Captain Budding- 
 ton .stated distinctly that "he never left the ship" to travel, or otherwise; 
 did not discover that any tidal wave came from the Pacific ; thought he 
 saw land to the north-east of Repulse Harbor ; saw land to the west, above 
 Cape Union ; thinks the North Pole might be reached by the route taken 
 by the Polaris; did not agree very well with Dr. Bessel. He also stated 
 that some wheat, accidentally spilled on the ground, took root on shore of 
 Polaris Bay, and grew to the height of two or three inches. 
 
 Mr. H. C. Chester, first mate, stated that at the highest point the Po- 
 laris reached he could see a dense water-cloud to the north ; that when the 
 consultation of officers was held (August 30, 1871), near lat. 83° 16' N., the 
 man aloft sung out that there was a lead close to the east shore ; thinks the 
 vessel could have gone on; that both he and Tyson gave that as their 
 opinion; thought '"if some one else had been sailing-master the ship would 
 have gone farther north. If he had had command, he would have tried 
 it." On his sledge-journey with Captain Hall, in the early part of October, 
 1871, they staid two days at Cape Brevoort; also stated that at that point 
 the sledge-journey ceased, but tiiat he and Captain Hall walked northward 
 for eight and a half hours to the highlands at Repulse Harbor [Captain 
 Hall does not mention this in his last dispatch to the Secretary of the Navy, 
 dated at Cape BrevoortJ ; that from these heights he saw a cape on the 
 north-west coast, extending sixty miles north, and also land trending off to 
 the east of Robeson Channel ; it was a clear day ; " a dense water-cloud 
 that extended round in a sort of semicircle, some parts lighter than others," 
 was seen to the north. Captain Hall's health was " first-rate " while on this 
 journey ; thought Hall's death natural. After separation of the party, " did 
 not know of any one being at the mast-head to look out for their late com- 
 panions but himself," but thought one other man went up when he was 
 not there. In the course of the day, October 16, thought he was up al- 
 together an hour and a half; was up and down the mabt-head every ten 
 or fifleen minutes, until they neared the land. Saw a piece of floe with 
 provisions on it, but no men. He copied the log-books, and re-copied his 
 first copy into a smaller form, because the large books were too heavy to 
 take in the boat. Thinks Captain Buddington " a good whaling-captain, 
 but that he has. not enthusiasm for the North Pole ;" he at times " depre- 
 
Ari'KNDIX. 471 
 
 oiatcd Captain Ilall, usin£» improper lan<jua<»e amoriff the soanion on the 
 main deck; he diil not spt-iik ri'spi-cttuUy of tin; cominandiT or tlie expedi- 
 tion,"' being sober at the time. "lli.s" (Captain liuddinj^ton's) " idea was. 
 tiiat tlie enterprise was all d — d nonsense; thoiiijht tlie scientific work 
 was all nonsense, too; he re<;arded the wliole thini; as foolishness. Mr. 
 Chester could not decide in his own mind which way the tide came from 
 — whetlier from the north or south. 
 
 Mr. MouTON, second mate, thought it was danirerons to attempt to get 
 north after coining to anchor in Polaris Hay. Watched with Captain Hall 
 during his sickness; confirms the statement concerning Captain Hall's sus- 
 picions of foul play; thinks he was delirious at the time; says Dr. Bessel 
 was kind to him; thinks that after the storm of November 37, 1871, the 
 Polam might have been prevented from resting on the spur of the berg 
 which so wrenched and strained her. After Hall's death, resigned his 
 charge of the provision-i; "found it would I>e an unpleasant situation ;" says 
 Captain Buddington "had not firmness enough to send an order to Chester 
 when the latter was at Newman Buy, but he sent a requests At the time 
 of the separation of the party, thought the ice was safer than the ship. 
 Saturday, June 1, 187:3. was the day agreed upon for leaving Life-boat Cove 
 in the boats, but they were prevented l>y a gale, which continued over Sun- 
 day. They started the ;3d, and reached Northumberland Island at mid- 
 night of that day ; " thought some people were not very sorry at Hall's 
 deatli;" heard Captain Buddington "mutter disrespectfully about him," 
 and use a " good many careless expressions ;" thinks the lookout on the Kith 
 of Octol)er might have amounted altogether "to au hour during the day;" 
 thinks the tide at Robeson Ciiannel comes from the south, and that the 
 climate is milder at Polaris Bay than at Kane's winter-quarters ; less snow 
 at the higher latitude. He " found grass in patches as high as your 
 
 ankle." 
 
 Washington, October 16, 1873. 
 
 By invitation, Surgeon-general Barnes, of the United States Army, and 
 Surgeon-general Beal, of the United States Navy, were present to listen to 
 such statements of Dr. Bessel's as related to the sickness and death of 
 Captain Hall. 
 
 Dr. Emii> Bessel : At Disco, at the time of the difficulty between Captain 
 Hall and Meyers, " I told him " (Captain Hall) " I preferred to go on shore 
 myself if Mr. Meyers was dismissed." On the day we reached lat. 82° 16', 
 Captain Buddington showed me a dark cloud hanging quite low over the 
 horizon at a pretty good distance to the north, ahead of us; could get 
 some glimpse of land north. I placed it in lat. 84° 40' N. "At the con- 
 sultation among the officers, Messrs. Chester, Tyson, and Morton suggested 
 going ahead ;" he (Dr. Bessel) did the same, only suggested going over to 
 the west coast. Captain Buddington said he " did not see any chance to 
 go farther ; Captain Hall was very anxious to go on." Captain Tyson and 
 one of the mer from the mast-head reported they " saw plenty of open 
 water ;" it could not be seen from the deck. Of Hall's sickness he says : 
 
472 AITENDIX. 
 
 Before I saw liim, tliero had hovn vomiting; the cul)in was very warm; 
 it was alioiit tit'tccii fvi{ Ion'? ami fiLrlit wide; tlicrc \v«'r(' cij^'lit lurtlis in 
 it; Hi'vcu people slept tlierc, iri<liiilinj^ tiie capfaiii ; tliey all slept there 
 liurinjif his sickness. [One of these was the colored cook.) His pi:lse was 
 very irreirnhir— from sixty to eighty — he all at once hecaine comatose. I 
 apj)lied inu-^tard poultices to his le<;s and breast, put blisters on his neck, 
 and cold-water applications to his head; in twenty-live minutes he recover- 
 ed consciousness; then found n condition of hemiplej^ia; the letl side of 
 the face, and the left arm and si(h', were paralyzed, also the muscles of the 
 ton<jue, the point of which deflected to the lell ; ^Mve him castor-oil, anil 
 three or four drops of croton-oil ; he slept durinj; that nii-ht; C()m|>lained 
 next day of ditticulty of swallowinj^. and numbness of the tonjifue; part of 
 the time he couM not speak distinctly; ^'ave more castor and croton oil. 
 and he recovert'd pretty well from the paralysis. 
 
 Oct. 28. He was restless, with l)Ut little appetite; ate, I think, some pre- 
 served food, jjeaches or pine-apple; complained of chilliness; the tempera- 
 ture of his body varied from H:i to 111 ; at tiiis time his mind was unaf- 
 fected; fjjave him hypodermic (under the skin) injection of one and a half 
 grains of fiuinine, to see the effect ; better in the evening ; took some arrow- 
 root and soup. 
 
 (Jet. 27. Appetite improved, but still numbness of the tongue. 
 
 Oct. 28. First symptoms of mind wandering ; thought some (me was going 
 to shoot him ; he accused every body; thought he saw blue gas coming out 
 of persons' mouths; woulil not take clean stockings from C'hester ; thought 
 they were poisoned; appeared to trust Joe and Hannah most; made one 
 and another taste the food, even that which came out of the sealed cans 
 opened in his cabin ; he continued thus till Saturday, November 4 ; he would 
 not let nie see him from October 2!) till November 4; gave him no treat- 
 ment during that time; he took pills and metlicines of his own; he asked 
 me for pills, and to satisfy him I made some of bread, and Hannah gave 
 them to him; partial paralysis of tongue continued; in showing his tongue 
 it was always deflected toward the left. 
 
 Nov. 5. I bathed his feet with warm mustard water; tried to do so on the 
 6th ; he thought I was going to poison him with the bath, 
 
 NoTi. 7. 1 A.M. He jumped out of bed, asked for Captain Buddington and 
 Hannah ; Mr. Hays called me from the observatory ; when I came, he asked 
 for water, and drank some ; I found the pupil of his left eye dilated, that of 
 the right contracted; he went back to bed; said he felt worse, and spoke 
 with more difficulty; he then became comatose; you could hear gurgling, 
 or rdle, in his throat; tried with a pin if sensation remained; there was 
 some on the right side, but none on the left; finally there were reflectory, 
 or spasmodic, motions of the muscles of the left side, and occasionally on 
 the right; this was Novembers; he died at 3.25 a.m. of that day. Thinks 
 the tides at Thank God Harbor came from the North Pacific ; thinks Cap- 
 tain Tyson could not have traveled overland in sledges, because there was 
 not snow enough; the ground was too bare. [See testimony of the carpen- 
 ter, Mr, Coffin, as to wheels.] During his stay at Newman Bay (with the 
 
APrENDix. 478 
 
 Tyson bfmt-party) there was not water ('n()ii«^!i to float the boat; the ice 
 kept poiirinj; down the whole time through UolK>son Channel in Hmall 
 pieces, iiiiniinoeks, and at last heavy fields. Koheson Channel was nit 
 frozen during the w hole winter, except a few days in March. The ice 
 poured down from n<»rth to south, with two exceptions. On one occasion 
 it went north for thirty minutes, iind on anotluT for fifteen minutes; he 
 tliinks, from geological features, that (Jrcenland has been split otf from the 
 west land at some period; thinks that the observations made by the PoUirin 
 party prove the insularity of (Jrcenland. [No surveys were made far enough 
 to tlie north-east to prove; that.) All tlie geological specimens, the skins, 
 the skeletons of musk-cattle, and most of the photographic apparatus, were 
 lost, with many instruments of difl'erent kinds; saved some instruments, anil 
 part of the records of the scientitie work performed; the wide-bore ther- 
 mometers, supplied by the Unite<l States Signal Corps, indicated correctly 
 temperature to —40'; the Cassella (English), narrow-bore, would stop at 
 —35°. Could not account for the fact that the ice-floe party were not to be 
 seen, though the latter could distinguish the smoke-stack of the Pohirix. In 
 the spring of 187:5 attempted to go overland to Thank Goil Harbor; did not 
 succeed, because neither natives nor seamen would accompany him; went 
 to " Brother John Glacier," and staid four days, making observations on rate 
 of progress, limits of neve, etc. After being picked up by the Itdi-emenng 
 on June ^;], remained on board of that vessel, which was beset in the ice, 
 until July 4; then Captain Allen crossed to the westward near Lancaster 
 Sound ; on the 7th of July was transferred, with others of the party, to the 
 Scotch whaler Arctic, Captain Adams; on board of tliis vessel was Captain 
 Markham, U.N. The Arctic sailed down Prince Regent Inlet to Fury 
 Beach; landed there, and examined tlie remains of the wreck of the British 
 ship Fvrii, lost by Captain Parry in 1824 ; found a lot of the canned pro- 
 visions supposed to have belonged to that vessel ; tested them, and found 
 them still good; also saw two finglish muskets, marked 1850. [These and 
 the provisions were proi)ably left by the Prince Albert, Captain Penny, who 
 was at Fury Beach in 1851.] He, in company with Captain Markham, also 
 went on a boat excursion to the south side of Creswell Bay ; saw there 
 thirty deserted huts made of the skulls of the Greenland whale ; saw ninety- 
 six skulls. During the appearance of the aurora borealis, in no instance 
 could the least amount of electricity be detected ; the record or journal he 
 kept was miscarried in England, and he had not yet recovered it. He had 
 kept no '"sick-list" during the entire cruise, because no one was sick. 
 
 Emu. Sciiuman, chief engineer : Heard Captain Hall thank Dr. Bessel for 
 his kindness to him during his sickness; also heard him (Captain Hall) say 
 to Captain Buddington, five or six days before he died, that, " in case he died, 
 he (Captain Buddington) should go to the North Pole, and not come back 
 till he had reached it ;" and Captain Buddington had to promise that he 
 would. After Captain Hall died, '' Captain Buddington took charge of the 
 papers," and read them, " and we all read them." I could not read Captain 
 Hall's handwriting; I tried to do so. There was no disorder in the ship; 
 there may have been in the forecastle, but I did not know it ; I am &o con- 
 
474 APPENDIX. 
 
 Mtitutf^d that I would not have heard any, if it were to take place; I would 
 go away; thought (.'aptain Huddington did all he could; went up aloft 
 once to look for the; loHt party; the maehincry of the Pol/triit worked well. 
 
 If. IIoiUiY, Heaniuii : During (Ja|.'t!ii;i llall'H ilincHH, Maueh, the eaptain'fl 
 clerk, came into the cabin and told tl)e chief engineer and mywjif " that 
 then; had been «onie poiHoning round there," not meaning that (y'aptain 
 Hall hud taken it, but '"that the HineP was in the cabin." Captain Hud- 
 dington told me Captain Hall was dead, and said, •' We are all right now." 
 I Huid, "How do you mean ]»y that?" He Hays, " You sha'n't be starved to 
 death now." I told him " I never believed I would." At DIhco we heard 
 that Cai'tain Budilington, Dr. BchscI, and Mr. H(;human wen; going to leave ; 
 some of tl:e men Haid they were going to leave foo. Captain Buddingtop 
 told 11. ri Washington, at the Navy Yard, "that in regard to all niatterH of 
 satin ^ ive iiad to come to him. From Disco on, the rations were short- 
 ened. We spoke about it to Cai)tain IJuddington. We never g(jt the thing 
 made better till Captain Hall found it out himself. After he found it out, 
 we then had alfundance. About 12 o'clock (of October W) went u\) to the 
 topmast and looked for the party on the ice; could see nothing of them. 
 In the spring Dr. Ik-ssel want(!d me to go to the North Pole with him on a 
 h'ledge-journey, with fifty pounds of pork and sixty pounds of bread. 1 
 thought that a very foolisli idea. He promised me two htmdred dollars if 
 I would go higher with him than Parry ha«l been. After tlu; Polwin was 
 beactied, we (some of the seamen) made fast only a single hawser; w(! 
 were not told to do this, but we took the responsibility. If I had had any 
 thing to say, I would have secured her properly at that time. On meeting 
 the Jiavenncraif/, I and some of the men and >Ir. (Jhester would have pre- 
 ferred to remain with the boats, feeling sure we could get to Disco witVi 
 them, (.'aptain Buddington and some others wanted to go aboard the ves- 
 sel. When the ship went on Providence Berg in November, 1871, Captain 
 Buddington said it was the safest j)lace we could have. All of us said the 
 contrary. I had never seen a ship setting on the ground the whole winter, 
 and this was the same; she soon comnKmced to keel over. When she had 
 set about a fortnight, then the captain thought it would not be a good i)lan 
 to leave her there ; if he had come to this c(mclusion before, she could 
 have been gotten otf in about an hour's time ; we could have sawed her 
 off; there were only two or three inches of ice on the port side ; that is, 
 where she got her break in the stem, I M'cnt up twice to look for the sep- 
 arat<;d party ; there was no one looking from the mast-head alxjut 4 p,m. 
 (The time when the ice-floe party saw her tied up.) I think we could have 
 gone farther north after we got into winter-quarters. The reason we did 
 not go was because Captain Buddington said "it was not safe to go farther 
 north ;" this was spoken in the prest;nce of every one. When the consul- 
 tation was had, they all said they wanted to go north, with tlie exception 
 of Captain Buddington. There was open water to the northward at that 
 time. I know there were a couple of officers who were greatly njlieved by 
 his (Captain Ilall's) death ; the doctor was one of them; I think Captain 
 Buddington was also ; I never heard them say so ; I could see it by their 
 
APPENDIX, 475 
 
 workfl ; Mr, Meyers said " that now the officerB would have something to 
 Huy." 
 
 H, SiKMAN, 8eumun : Tlio thing I did not liite was there not being any 
 siedge-jonrneyH, I did not see Captain Hull during liiw Kickness. I aHkcd 
 Captain HiKhiington ior pcrmiHsion, l)iit never had tiu; privih'ge. I asked 
 Dr. Uesw;! about (.'aptain Hall, and he told nie that he would not get over 
 his sickness; this was before he got so very siek the second time. In my 
 opinion, the expedition died witli Captain Hall ; was on shore with a tele- 
 scope some miles behincl Ca[)e IJrevoort. I think I saw land northward on 
 the east and west sides, I h(!ard a glacier discharge below our winter- 
 quarters, where tlie place called Houtliern Fiord is, 
 
 A, A, Odkm., second enginciir: We had a very good crew; every thing 
 went on peaceably ; do not think the Polirk was exactly of the right build 
 for a ship to go north, but slie was very strong. The machinery was in 
 good condition. It was as much as we could do to get into shore at Life- 
 boat (Jove, 
 
 N. J, CoKKiN, carpenter : At Disco, when Captain Davenport came on 
 board the Polirin and read the object of the voyage, Captain Hall stated in 
 the (!abin Ijeforc all of us that he had been insult(!d by Dr, Bessel. This 
 was the time he read off the duti(!s of every man. When Captain Hall 
 came back from his sledge -journey, / IkuI m'den to make sovie whceh. I 
 nutde three of tfiem ; then, at hk death, I was ordered to discontinue them. 
 Captain Hall encountered a great deal of bare ground, and he wanted to 
 go over that, when he could not use the sleds on account of there being no 
 snow. He was calculating upon another journey right off, I saw him 
 twice while he was siek. I had a piece of furniture to fix, and made that 
 un excuse to go into the cabin ; and Mr. Morton asked me once to go in 
 and open a keg of tamarinds. I asked if it would do him any harm if I 
 were to call in ; they thought it not advisabh; to disturb him. I asked 
 Hans (who was with him on his sledge-journey) what he thought of his 
 sickness. Hans said that he traveled hard on the journey ; and while they 
 were building houses (snow-huts; Captain Hall did not do any work in the 
 cold, and that <lid not do him any good. I heard Mr. Mauch talking with 
 Hays; he (Mauch) was s(miething of a chemist; he was telling Hays that 
 the alcohol they burned had tartar-emetic in it, and that the fumes of it 
 acted as a poison when burned. He said he thought that hurt Captain 
 Hall, I asked him what he was saying, and he told me the same thing. 
 He told me he thought it had a great deal of effect on Captain Hall's 
 health. 
 
 I do not think there was a piece of the stem torn out below the six-foot 
 water-mark. There was not, to my knowledge, and I made several surveys 
 of the vessel. In regard to the ice-floe party, I had an idea — whether it was 
 only imagination or not I do not know — but I thought I saw a large number 
 of men on the piece of ice that was nearly like a berg, and a number suffi- 
 ciently great to indicate that it was our party, I saw no provisions, or 
 any thing else ; they were near enough for me to take in the whole outline 
 of them ; they were on a piece of ice that was floating— movng with the 
 
476 ^U'PENDIX. 
 
 current very rapidly ; tlio time T thouglit I saw these men on the ice was 
 just before dark. Uurinj; tlie day we had looked, but did not see them, 
 jTliis was no <l()ubt a reality, and tlio time corresponds witli that wlien all 
 of the ice-floe party were collected together lookinj; at the Polarin tm\ up.J 
 Tliought it was i)erlia|)s a mirage, I reported tiiis fact to Mr. Chester, 1 
 think, I went in bathing at Polaris Bay ; did not feel uncomfortable until 
 about an hour after; a storm came up, and it became quite chilly before I 
 got on board. 
 
 N. IIayh, rated as seaman, but employed as coal-passer in the fire-room : 
 I was below a good deal, and did not know as much of what was going on 
 as those di<l who were on deck, I presume no one knew less than I did. 
 I hail no chance to observe any thing. Seven hours 1 was on duty, to five 
 oflf, while the vessel was under steam. I did not go on deck at all to do 
 any duty ; I do not rememljcr any thing very distinctly ; I kept a sort of a 
 Journal; I saw Captain Hall when lie came Ijack (from his sledge-journey) ; 
 I had it in mind uj) to a little while ago that he said he had been unwell 
 tw(j or three days ; but I found, on inquiry among the rest, that he had told 
 them no such thing, and therefore I must be mistaken about that. After 
 the separation, when morning came, I do rot know that we looked for our 
 comrades right away ; I thought of them all the time, but our attention was 
 drawn to the shore; I was that morning at the wheel ; there was a marine- 
 glass lying there ; I took that, and scanned the horizon two or three times 
 to the southward, to Littleton Island, and to the shore, but I could see noth- 
 ing of our comrades ; others looked also. Mr. Chester was at the mast-head 
 once or twice, I believe, but he was o:i deck most of the time ; no one was 
 at the mast-head continually ; Mr. Chester said he saw something on the 
 ice ; the general opinion seemed to be that it was " l)lack-i(,'e " (/. c, a cavity 
 in the ice which at a long distance looks black) ; I should think that was 
 fifteen miles off; we could not have got to them. Dr. Bessel said he would 
 make a confidant of me in regard to his enterprise of going up north. He 
 was gone about a day and a half He told us he had crossed the channel 
 (Smith Sound), and had been a little over a degree above the position of 
 the house (at Thank God Harbor), but I don't think it was possible by any 
 means. He told Captain Buddington he was going inland to examine a 
 glacier. The discipline was good under Hall ; afterward I think the men 
 did what they were ordered from principle, and not from what they consid- 
 ered necessity. One day I was over at the observatory with Dr. Bessel ; I 
 was there a good part of the time then, in the winter. He appeared to be 
 very light-hijarted, and said " that it " (Hall's death) " was the best thing 
 that could happen for the expedition." I think those were the words he 
 used. The next day he was laughing when he mentioned it. I was much 
 Inirt at the time, and told him " I wished he would select somebody else as 
 an auditor if he had any such a thing to say." I never passed a day in the 
 Arctic regions l)ut what at some time of the day, in the shade, I observed 
 salt-water ice making, though at the same time the sun was pouring down 
 incessantly for twenty -four hours in the day, and the thermometer at that 
 time, 40° to +50°. 
 
APPENDIX. 477 
 
 W. F. Campbell, fireman : The coffee tliat Captain Ilall drank, on return 
 from ills .sledge-journey, was made purposely for him, though scvenil others 
 had some at the same time. I saw him several times during his sieknesa, 
 but did not speak to him. I heard that some of the men asked Dr. Bessel 
 what he thought, and the doetor told them that " he would never get over 
 it;'' this was when he was tirst siek. Think he died a natural death. Af- 
 ter the separation, saw some provisions on the ice, but no human beings. I 
 went up to the mast-liead about ten o'clock in the morning. I had a cat 
 on board that we took from Washington ; it staid with us Iwth winters in 
 the ship, and finally ran away from us at Ilakluyt Island, as we came down 
 in our boats. The Esquimau.x at Life-boat Cove had never seen a cat be- 
 for.', and were mucli interested in it. They have a name for it in tlie Es- 
 quimau language, though they have not the animal. 
 
 Washington, December 24, 1913. 
 At 12 M. Hon. Geo. M. Robeson, Secretary of the Navy ; Admiral Rey- 
 nolds, Professor Spencer F. Baird, and Captain Ilowgatc assembled at the 
 Navy De2)artment, for the purpose of taking the statements of the last three 
 of the survivors rescued from the steamship Polaris, who arrived in New 
 York November 6, 1873. 
 
 R. W. D. BiiYAN, astronomer and chaplain : On reaching our highest 
 latitude, August 80, 1H71, I believe the consultation was called, Ijecause 
 Captain Buddington had told Captain Hall that they had gone as far as 
 they could. A good j)art of the time it was foggy, and it was snowing; for 
 a short time we had very clear weather ; then I could see the land on the 
 east side, which seemed to end in a point ; I saw also the land on the west 
 side ; I did not go up aloft ; far ahead we saw what the sailors call a 
 " water sky ;" right around the vessel there was quite a space between the 
 different floes, so that I was personally very much provoked that they did 
 not go up farther. Afterward I learned that a correct judgment could not 
 be formed by looking from the deck. I suppose even now they could have 
 gone on for perhaps half a mile, but I am very well satisfied they could not 
 have gone any farther. 
 
 I never supposed that Captain Hall was so sick that he would die until 
 he did die, although Dr. Bessel used to say that " if ho had another attack 
 he would die ;" but then I did not believe it. The doctor at one time 
 wanted to administer a dose of (juinine, and the captain would not take it. 
 The doctor came to me and wanted me to persuade Captain Hall to take it. 
 I did so, and I saw him prepare the medicine ; he had little white crystals, 
 and he heated them in a little glass bowl ; heated the water apparently to 
 dissolve the crystals. That is all I know about any medicine. It was 
 given in the form of an injection under the skin in his leg. The night be- 
 fore he died, as he went to bed, he appeared very rational indeed ; I remem- 
 ber this very distinctly. The doctor was putting him to bed, and tucking 
 his clothes around him, when the captain said, " Doctor, you have been 
 very kind to me, and I am obliged to you." I noticed that particularly, 
 
478 APPENDIX. 
 
 because it was a little different from wliat he had been saying to the doc- 
 tor. Mr. Morton told me tliut all the evidence that he had that he was 
 dead was a cessation of breathing. Just before he died, he had heard his 
 regular I»rcathing, and then all of a sudden it ceased, and then commenced 
 again : it ceased twice, and then altogether. The separation of the ice-floe 
 party was entirely accidental, unless some person maliciously cut the rope, 
 whi<;h I have no idea was the case. The morning after, Mr. Chester came 
 down from the mast-head and reported that he could see a piece of ice, 
 witli provisions, but not any signs of the men ; that satisfied us all, because 
 we had an idea that the wind drifted us away from them, and the current 
 took them down. We had no idea at all tliat any one could see them. It 
 just satisfied us at once that they were too far off to be seen. That is the 
 reason no one else went up to look. 
 
 Q. " Didn't any body else go up to the mast-head ?" 
 
 A. No, sir, not that I recollect of; and I think I recollect pretty accu- 
 rately, because I remember I reproached myself all winter that I did not do 
 it. Henry Hobljy might have gone up when I was not looking, but I do 
 not remember any body else but Mr. Chester. I was transferred from the 
 Ravenscraig to the Intrepid, with Mr. Mauch and Mr. Booth ; then, when 
 Captain Walker, of the Brick, was ready to sail, he offered to take us, and 
 we went in her. Had heard after Captain Hall's death that both Bessel 
 and lhiddingt(m had expressed "relief," as though they had been under 
 some kind of restraint which was not pleasant, and they were glad it was 
 over. There was no difiiculty between Captains Buddington and Tyson 
 in regard to the business aboard the sliip. After some lengthened conver- 
 sation, perhaps, there would be a want of some little cordiality; but after a 
 short time they would be very friendly ; think some excuse ought to be 
 made for Buddington's appearing occasionally under the influence of liq- 
 uor, " because so little affected liim." Others took the liquor when they 
 could get it ; I frequently saw a person with a key belonging to a closet in 
 the cal)in where the doctor had stored liquor open the door to get some of 
 it. It was Mr, Schuman, the engineer ; he made a key to that door. I do 
 not remember any other one. I believe the doctor medicated, several of his 
 cans of alcohol — put in some tartar-emetic. I put all my records out on the 
 ice, containing astronomical, magnetic, and other observations; they are all 
 lost. I had one little plant that Dr. Bessel did not have in his collection. 
 No records or instruments were left on board the Polaris. Some of these 
 v:^TL put in the cairn it Life-boat Cove ; I think I can answer that there is 
 not much there. We did not leave any thing valuable. The log that has 
 been spoken of that was preserved was the log that Mr. Chester wrote. He 
 found he had made a mistake in the first one ; that he had left out a day 
 in it, or something of that kind ; and so, instead of correcting the mistake, 
 he started a new one, and copied the whole thing up to that date ; then he 
 kept on writing the log. lie had two large books ; then he condensed these 
 large books into a log-book that he brought back here, and those two large 
 books (his first copy) were buried,when we left the house,with the instruments. 
 The old log, that had been copied twice, was left knocking around the house. 
 
APPENDIX, 479 
 
 J. B. Mauch, shipped as seaman : Acted part of the time as captain's 
 clerk. I kept Captain Buddinf^ton's journal, and Captain Hall's; that is, I 
 kept my own, and Captain Hall copied his from mine. He did not write 
 much. The record which he made at Cape Brevoort I copied. He dictated 
 to nie from the original. I put tiiat among his records. In his writing- 
 desk was the original paper from which he dictated to me. [This desk, 
 with the paper referred to, was saved on the ice-floe ; an extract from it is 
 given in the fac-simile writing on page 128 of this volume. The whole 
 document is in the Appendix.] Do not know whether any of Captain 
 Hall's papers were destroyed or not. At Life-boat Cove we had as many 
 as one hundred and one natives with us at different times. The old log- 
 book was buried. Mr. Chester wrote a new one. I think you can get the 
 correct' ons, barometrical and thermoinetrical, from the observations in my 
 records. 
 
 J. W. Booth, fireman : Only one little accident happened to the engine; 
 the blow-off pipe gave out at St. Johns, and one of the nuts of the revers- 
 ing-link came off. When at our highest latitude, we had from one hundred 
 and ten to one hundred and twenty tons of coal left. In coming up Ken- 
 nedy Channel and Smith Sound, the propeller was making about sixty-five 
 turns. After going into winter-quarters, the machinery was all taken apart 
 to preserve it, and to keep the pipes from bursting ; and it was put in or- 
 der, so that it might be put together again in the spring. The engine was 
 working better when we beached her than it ever did before. The appa- 
 ratus which was put on board to burn blubber was never used after it was 
 tried in Brooklyn. I helped to put it together for them. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Admiralty, British, 62. 
 Advance, the U. S. steamship, 67. 
 Agassiz on glaciers, 450. 
 All ice and Icebergs, 2GG, 
 Allen, Captain, 405. 
 Allowance per diem on floe, 221) ; re- I 
 • duced, 28!). 
 
 Ambition, a pure, 74. i 
 
 American expeditions, 34, 64. , 
 
 American flag raised, 150. ' 
 
 Annual reports of discoveries bv Captain I 
 
 Hall, 121. 
 Amel Gibbs, the whaler, 97. 
 Antelope, the bark, {)7. 
 Apoplexy, cases of, 162. I 
 
 Appropriation for North Polar Expedi- j 
 
 tion, 100. 
 Ajctic adventurers, 20, 
 Arctic chronology, 413-421. 
 Arctic, the whaler, 407. 
 Augustina, 2G3. 
 
 Aurora borealis, 172, 220, 254, 361. 
 Austin, Captain, 55. 
 
 Baby bom on Polaris, 192 ; named Char- 
 lie Polaris, 192 ; on the ice-floe, 263. 
 
 Back, Lieutenant (Sir George), 48. 
 
 Baffin, William, 32, 
 
 Baird, Professor Spencer F., 2, 433. 
 
 Bait, cheese for, 363. 
 
 Baiting porpoises, 358. 
 
 "Balleeners,"85. 
 
 Barrow, Sir John, 44. 
 
 Battery of ice-blocks, 321. 
 
 Battle between bergs, 325. 
 
 Bay, Newman, 180. 
 
 Bay, Polaris, 148. 
 
 Bay, Roberts, 336. 
 
 "Bear" and "Spike," 214. 
 
 Bears, habits of, 290, 309 ; liver poisons 
 crew, 298 ; shot by Joe, 177, 323 ; shot 
 by Captain Tyson, 309 ; shot by Lieu- 
 tenant H. C. White, 370. 
 
 Beechey, Captain, 42 ; Beechey Island, 57. 
 
 Belcher, Sir Edward, 60, 149. 
 
 Bellot, Il^ne, 61. 
 
 Heset in the ice, 98. 
 
 Bessel, Dr. Emil, 129; storm-bound, 166; 
 
 31 
 
 lost in the darkness, 169 ; snow-bltnd, 
 
 187. 
 
 " Billy's " adventure, 378. 
 
 Birds, Arctic, 87, 392 ; blown out to sea, 
 384 ; in the rigging, 385. 
 
 Bladder-nose seal, 289. 
 
 " Blanket," the seal's, 235. 
 
 Blow-holes of seal, 217; of narwhals, 
 282. 
 
 Blubber, value of, for lamps, 210 ; as food, 
 281. 
 
 Boat-journeys, 185-188. 
 
 Boat-steerer, 92, 
 
 Boats on Polaris, 103. 
 
 Books, none on ice-floe, 257. 
 
 Booth, Sir Felix, 46. 
 
 Biiothia Peninsula, 50. 
 
 Braine, Commander, 342; Bradford, his 
 choice of bergK, 302. 
 
 Brevoort, Cape, 161 ; J. Carson, 104, 
 467. 
 
 British Naval Board, obtuseness of, 61. 
 
 Bryan, li, W. D. , astronomer to Polaris 
 expedition, 131 ; letter of, 469 ; testi- 
 mony of, 478. 
 
 Buddlngton, Captain James, 342; Sid- 
 ney O., 131,406,407. 
 
 Burial at sea, 77. 
 
 Cabot, John and Sebastian, 26. 
 
 Canaries in Greenland, 381. 
 
 Canary-bird rations, 290. 
 
 Cannibalism, rumors of, 60 ; feared, 230. 
 
 Cape Constitution, 177. 
 
 ('ape Mercy, 95, 97. 
 
 Chamisso Island, 43. 
 
 Charts, defective, 148. 
 
 Children imperiled, 201; in snow-hut on 
 floe, 263 ; in the boat, 310 ; at St. 
 Johns, 339 ; at Brooklyn Navy Yard, 
 350. 
 
 Chipman, Assistant Ice-pilot, 358. 
 
 Chivalry, modem, 73. 
 
 Christmas on Polaris, 171 ; on the ice- 
 floe, 232, 
 
 "Cleaning house" on the floe, 274. 
 
 Cleanliness impossible, 303. 
 
 Clothing in Arctic regions, native far, 83 ; 
 
482 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Bheep-skin good substitute, 390 ; civil- 
 ized, 140, 2,"):^, 280; inventory of Cup- 
 tain TvMMi'.s, 270; luxury of clean, 
 277. 
 
 Coal near Disco, 421 ; at Ivgitut, South 
 (Ireenliuui, ;}7!», .'Wl. 
 
 Cold, excessive, 7H ; iio barrier to travel, 
 411 ; ertect on crews' courage, 204. 
 
 Collinson, C'liptaiii. 01. 
 
 Commagere, Frank Y., .'J47 ; his yam, 
 
 ;jr.7. 
 
 Compasses, variation of, 44 ; deviation 
 
 corrected, 3.">(!. 
 Conclusions arrived at, 411, 412. 
 Congress, U. S. steamship, 144. 
 (/ongressional action, 100. 
 (/onstellations, beauty of the Arctic, 247. 
 C<x)k, Captain, 34. 
 Crozier, Captain. 122. 
 Cumberland tJulf, !>") ; Captain Tyson "at 
 
 home " there, 375. 
 Curious record, 373. 
 Cylinders, copper, thrown overboard, 148, 
 
 141) ; buried on shore, 101, 187. 
 
 Dai.v, Judge Charles P., letter to, 424. 
 
 Danes in (ireenland, 83, 371. 
 
 Danish officials, 1.35, 137. 
 
 Dannet, ("aptuin, 51. 
 
 Dante's ice hell, 278. 
 
 Davenport, Captain, 146, 
 
 Davis, Joim, 20. 
 
 De Haven, J^ieutenant, 57, 85. 
 
 De Long, Lieutenant, 343. 
 
 Dealy Island, 01. 
 
 Dease's jouniev overland, and bv boat, 
 4H. 
 
 Death of Captain C. F. Hall, 102, 472. 
 
 Deer-meat plenty, 11!); deer seen, 377. 
 
 "Devil's Thumb," 83. 
 
 Dirt in snow-huts, 280, 297 ; unavoidable 
 on floe, 303. 
 
 Discipline, lack of, 221. 
 
 Disco, description of, 83, 225 ; hopes cen- 
 tred on, 242. 
 
 Discoveries of Captain C. F. Hall, 424 ; 
 discoveries, real and supposed, of oth- 
 ers, 22-24. 
 
 Doctor's clerk, 301. 
 
 Dogs, Esquimaux, 154, 177, 215, 896. 
 
 Dovekies appear, 282. 
 
 Dramatic series of events, 407. 
 
 Drift of the ice-floe with Captain Tyson 
 and party, 197-331 ; De Haven's, 84 ; 
 M'Clinto'ck's, 63; Parry's, 45; British 
 ship liesolute, 95 ; crew cf the Hansa, 
 419. 
 
 Drift-wood, at Newman Bay, 187. 
 
 Drink bear's blood, for want of water, 323. 
 
 Drving-nets of Esquimaux, 211. 
 
 Du'ck Islands, 84 ; ducks, 87. 
 
 Dundee, news from, 407. 
 
 Eastkr-Sundat, 317. 
 
 Eating frozen seal entrails, 237, 258 ; ev- 
 ery jjart but bones and gull, 270; his 
 "jacket," 282 ; seal-skin, hair on, 250; 
 Bcraji blubber from lamp, 200. 
 
 Ebierbing, "Joe," the Escpiimau, 221. 
 
 Economizing paper, 226, 251. 
 
 Eider-ducks, 88. 
 
 Elberg, (iovenior, 137. 
 
 Electric clouds, 1()8. 
 
 Era, schooner, voyages in, 98; log, rec- 
 ords from, 98. 
 
 Erebus and Terror, 51 ; last seen by white 
 men, 51 ; fate of, 119. 
 
 Es(piimaux, first impressions of, 80 ; huts, 
 209; tents and dress, 83, 401, 409; 
 nursery usage, 339 ; half-breed belles, 
 372; music and dancing, 312; boats, 
 143, 270, 310 ; sledges, 287, 349, 390 ; 
 dogs, 154, 177; lamps, 210; unthrifty, 
 213 ; tribes of west coast of Davis 
 Strait neglected by Christian world, 
 377 ; civilized vices, 377 ; difference of 
 disposition in tribes, 121. 
 
 Tixercisingin a space three feet square, 27H. 
 
 Expeditions, jne-Cohimbian, 25 ; mercan- 
 tile, 25 ; early English, 27 ; to the east- 
 ward, 27 ; due north, 35, 30 ; overland, 
 33, 41, 50; modern, 44; early Ameri- 
 can, 34; modern American, 04; Polaris. 
 100 ; first and second Grinnell, 56, 64 ; 
 via Behring Strait, 34,413; to the north- 
 west, 413 ; via Spitzbergen coast, 34, 45 : 
 scientific, 44, 419 ; relief, 53-03; sledge, 
 155, 170, 180; boat, 41, 45, 186. 
 
 Explorers, rival, 25. 
 
 Failures and successes, 71. 
 
 P'auna, Arctic, 392. 
 
 Fiords of Greenland, 177, 178, 381. 
 
 Fire in coal-bunker, 308 ; fire " training." 
 357. 
 
 Firing signals, 327. 
 
 Fiscanaes, 143. 
 
 Flag presentation, 120 ; raising, 1.50. 
 
 Floe separates from Polaris, 197 ; list of 
 persons on the floe, 202 ; size of, 201. 
 207, 312; floe breaks up, 312-324: 
 becomes a " pack," .302. 
 
 Fog, pest of northern regions, 374 ; a 
 black, 385. 
 
 Forlorn Hope, the, 03. 
 
 Fox, Captain Luke, 104, 415; Channel, 
 31, 415 ; Arctic, 155, 181, 229 ; voy- 
 age of the, 63. 
 
 Franklin, Sir John, 44 ; last expedition 
 of, 51 ; date of death, 64 ; name strick- 
 en from British Navy List, 417; relics 
 of, 57, 04, 120 ; Lady, 56, 60, 63. 
 
 Frobisher's gold, 27 ; relics collected by 
 C. F. Hall. 120 ; "strait " resolved into 
 "bay," 117. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 483 
 
 Frolic, U. S. steamship, brings floe waifs to 
 Washinj^ton, 341. > 
 
 Frozen nienury, 'J'A. 
 
 Fury, British steamship, consort ofllecla, ] 
 40; wrecli of, 4;5 ; beach, 421. 
 
 Gales, violent, IfiS, 174, 107, 320, 382. ! 
 
 Game plenty, 392 ; scarce on floe, 230- 
 232; at extreme north, 181, 3!)2. 
 
 Geographical Society, 124; (Captain Hall 
 addresses the, 12(5 ; reports to, 414. 
 
 George Henry, the whaler, 92. 
 
 (Heorgiana, the brig, 9(J. 
 
 German efficiency, 30G. 
 
 German element on Polaris, 134 ; on 
 floe, 231 ; expeditions, 418, W.). 
 
 Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, 28. 
 
 Glaciers, how to observe, 4r)0 ; in Green- 
 land, 2(J6; extinct, 187, 3!»1 ; extent 
 of the Humboldt, 2GG; discharge of,475. 
 
 Glorious spectacle, a, ru>. 
 
 Goodhavn, harbor of, 83, 135. 
 
 " Gradgrinds," ancient, G9. 
 
 Grant, President, 343. 
 
 Grave of Captain Hall, 190 ; re-arranged, 
 192. 
 
 Greenland, early settlement of, 24 ; rug- 
 ged coast, 3G2; interior plateaux of, 
 394; mer - (/e - 9/ate, 2GG ; inhabitants, 
 80, 371; officials, 135, 137; "cap- 
 tains," 38. 
 
 Greer, Commander James A., 347; his 
 success, 354. 
 
 Grinnell Land, 22 ; first expedition, 56 ; 
 second, GO. 
 
 Ground-tackle lost, 193. 
 
 Hall, Captain Charles Francis, G4 ; 
 early life and traits, 113; Arctic expe- j 
 ditions of, 1 16, 118 ; lives with the Es- j 
 quimaux, 125; letters of, 102, 105, 111, ' 
 132; his last public address, 127; idio- i 
 syncrasy, 137 ; geographical reports, j 
 121 ; his early discoveries, 119 ; at New 1 
 London, Conn., 99 ; persevering efforts, i 
 125; appointed to command U. S. steam- j 
 ship Polaris, 101 ; his sledge-journey, ' 
 155; his premonitions, 127; his illness ; 
 and death, 162, 472 ; facsimile of his 
 writing, 128. i 
 
 Hall Land named, 166. ; 
 
 Hannah, wife of Ebierbing, 221 ; leaims 
 white manr.ers, 303 ; afraid of being 
 eaten, 230. 
 
 Hans, native Esquimau, 136 ; mistaken 
 for a bear, 218 ; kills and eats two 
 dogs, 213 ; his family hut on the floe, 
 263 ; at St. Johns. 336 ; reminiscences 
 of, 248, 274 ; Mrs. Hans's summer ar- 
 rangements in Brooklyn Navy Yard, 
 350; returns to Greenland on Tigress, 
 850 ; compelled to wash, 362. 
 
 Harbor, Thank God, latitude of, LIS. 
 
 Ilarjioon metamorphosed, 275. 
 
 Ilartstenc, Lieutenant, G3. 
 
 Iliiwk. interviewed aloft, 385. 
 
 Hayes, Dr. I. L, 24, G7. 
 
 Henry's, Professor, instructions to Scien- 
 
 tific ('orps, 431. 
 Hili^ard, Professor, 433. 
 n()i)soii. Lieutenant, 64. 
 Holsteiiiborg, 80. 
 Hojie abandoned, 208 ; the preserver of 
 
 man, 2G1. 
 Hudson, Henry, 31 ; Bav Company, 48. 
 
 Hunger, pains of, 232. 
 
 Hunting bears, 177; musk -cattle, 180: 
 
 seal, 79; for "specimens," 378. 
 Hurricane, Arctic, 175, 278. 
 
 IcK, groaning, 195 ; fresh-water ice melt- 
 ed to drink, 195, 279, 402 ; salt-water, 
 to season soup, 279 ; pash, 204, 322 ; 
 young. 270; frightful noises of break- 
 ing, 296. 
 
 Icebergs, how formed, 2G6 ; their differ- 
 ent forms, 267 ; various histories, infi- 
 nite variety, 267 ; excitement on near- 
 ing, 3(i3; narrow escape from, 385; a 
 beautiful sight, 363; naive comments 
 on, 359, 
 
 Igloo, or native hut, 209. 
 
 Igloolik Island, 426. 
 
 Illusions, Arctic, 24. 
 
 Inglefield, Captain, 61. 
 
 Insects, Arctic, 392. 
 
 Instructions, official, to Captain Hall, 
 108 ; to Scientific Cor|)s, 109. 
 
 Intrepid, the whaler, 407. 
 
 Isabel, voyage of, 60, Gl. 
 
 Isabella, the, 48. 
 
 Ivgitut, South Greenland, 379. 
 
 Ivory, article of commerce, 273; royal 
 chair of Denmark made of, 273. 
 
 Janskjj, Governor, 146 ; sharp on a trade. 
 139. 
 
 "Joe" and Hannah, 348; his hunting 
 qualities, 219, 249 ; his valuation of 
 seal, 284 ; his opinion of sailors, 278 : 
 shoots a bear, 177, 323; his shrewd- 
 ness on Tigress, 351. 
 
 Kane, Dr. E. K., 59, 60, '^4. 
 
 Kellet, Captain, 53. 
 
 Kennedy, Captain, 23, 24, 61 ; Channel, 
 
 148. 
 King, Dr., 48. 
 KiTigituk, 146. 
 Krvolite, 379, 281. 
 Kyack, 270, 286, 287, 314. 
 
 Labrador, coast of, 269, 295. 
 
484 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 liake discovered l)y Captain Ilidl, 101, 
 
 4'-'.-. ; ( Jreat Hear. 48 ; Musk Ox, 48. 
 Lainont, James, F. U.S., 4r.t. 
 Lamps, native, 210; itnpi<)vi<oJ nn floe, 
 
 211 ; heating power ut', 2'J'.i, '2'Ji. 
 Latitude, highest attained by Polaris, l."»0; 
 
 of Thank (iixi Harbor, 153; of ice-floe 
 
 party when rescued, '6'i'i. 
 Lenunings, 181. 
 Life-l»oat Cove, 400. 
 Littleton Ishind, :{(;.">, 300. 
 Livers of bear and oogjook poisonous, 298. 
 I^og-book records, 08, 111); inutihitions 
 
 of, 3.->4. 
 Lupton, Colonel James, 2 ; Cape, ir>2. 
 
 .VI'Clellan, the bark, 77. 
 
 M-Clintock, Captain, 68, 59, G3. 
 
 .MHMure, (Captain, Gl. 
 
 .Mackenzie Kiver, 42. 
 
 .Magazine, guarding the, 357. 
 
 .Magnetic pole discovered, 47; effect on 
 
 compasses, 44. 
 Magnetism, terrestrial, 410, 436. 
 Meek, Professor, 433. 
 Melting ice for drink, 279. 
 Melville Bay, 79, 80, 343; ice-pack in, 
 
 389 ; Island, 54. 
 Mental coercion, providential, 02. 
 Mtr -de -glace, the feeder of Humboldt 
 
 Glacier, 2GG. 
 Mercury frozen, 254. 
 .Meteorology, 438. 
 Meyers, Fred., 130 ; surveys Newman 
 
 Bay, 180; separated from party, 313; 
 
 frozen, 314 ; a ])icture of famine, 318 ; 
 
 grotesque misery of, 319. 
 .Middle ice, 79. 
 
 Miik, how procured on the ice-floe, 310. 
 .Mineralogy, 349, 378, 379. 
 -Mistakes of explorer, 22. 
 .Mock moons, 175; mock sans, 176. 
 .Modern facilities for Arctic research, 72, 
 Molleinokes, tricks on, 88. 
 Monticello, the bark, 118. 
 Musk-cattle, habits of, 181 ; Labrador 
 
 species, 154 ; skins used for bedding, 
 
 201 ; peculiar strategy of, 181 ; found 
 
 far north, 392. 
 
 Narwhals, description of, 272, 273; good 
 
 to carry otr shot, 277, 281. 
 National Academy of Sciences, 428. 
 Newcomb, Professor, 433. 
 Newman Bay, IGl, 181 ; Dr. at Disco, 
 
 144; writes three prayers for Polaris 
 
 expedition, 145. 
 New-year's-day on the floe, 237. 
 New whaling-ground, 427. 
 Night, Arctic, 220, 247 ; a fearful, 321. 
 Nipped in ice, danger of, 168. 
 Nomenclature, Arctic, 21. 
 
 North Pole, orders to reach, 30, 34 ; invi- 
 tation to visit, 105; probable geograph- 
 ical features of, 388 ; how to recognize 
 the spot, 127; Chaplain Tyson's plan to 
 ' get tliere, 393. 
 
 Northumberland Island, 352, 3G2. 
 i North-west passage, 28 ; made by Captain 
 M'Clure over ice, Gl ; by Captain Col- 
 linson in bis ship, Gl ; probably made 
 by Franklin, 1 19. 
 
 Nothing to read on the floe, 257. 
 
 OnsKKVATioxs, proof of genuineness, 109; 
 
 faulty, 229, 243, 247. 
 Oil-boiler, 194, 479. 
 Oo^gook, or monster seal, 291 ; thirty 
 
 gallons of oil taken from, 291 ; liver 
 
 poisons the crew, 298." 
 Oomiak, or woman's boat, 104, 316. 
 One full meal, 220. 
 
 One short meal a day. reduced to, 289. 
 "Open Polar .sea" non est, 148. 
 Orray Tuft, the whaler, 97. 
 Osborne, Lieutenant Sherrard, 57, 58. 
 Overhanging bergs, 316. 
 
 Pains of hunger, 222. 
 
 Paraselene, 175. 
 
 Pariielia, 17G. 
 
 Parker, Captain, 91. 
 
 Parry, Captain, 37, 42, 45. 
 
 Peabody, George, GO. 
 
 Pemmican, how composed, 215; made 
 into "tea" or "soup," 233. 
 
 Pendulum experiments, 70. 
 
 Penny, Captain, 55, 5G. 
 
 Periioinkle, U. S. steamship, 101. 
 
 Pim, Lieutenant, Gl. 
 
 Plateaux of Hall Land and Greenland, 
 394. 
 
 Plover, British steamer, 53, 56. 
 
 Polar Sea discussed, 148, 388. 
 
 "Polaris, Charlie," Hans's baby, 192, 263, 
 323. 
 
 Polaris, U. S. steamship commissioned, 
 101 ; description of, 102-104 ; officers 
 and crew, list of, 112 ; reaches highest 
 latitude, 150 ; drifts southward, 193 , is 
 abandoned, 400; presented to Esqui- 
 maux chief, 401 ; founders, 367; a 
 twice-copied log brought home, 478. 
 
 Pole, magnetic, 47 ; geographical, 127. 
 
 Pond Bay renamed, 22. 
 
 Porj)oises, angling for ; how taken, 358. 
 
 Port Foulk as base of supplies, 394. 
 
 "Pounding-day" on the floe, 274. 
 
 Prayers used by the Polaris expedition, 
 145, 160 ; composed by Dr. Newman, 
 159. 
 
 Profit and loss of Arctic exploration, 67. 
 
 Providence Berg named by Captain Hall, 
 151 ; it splits in two, 168. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 486 
 
 I'rovisions on the ice-floe, 202 ; how di- 
 vidcil, 212. 
 
 Punev, Joe and Hannah's adopted daugh- 
 ter^ 211,202. 
 
 QcATLE, Captain, 85 ; John, 92, 93. 
 Questions, curious, 332. 
 
 Rak, Dr. John, .lO. 
 
 Itations weighed out hy the ounce, 212 ,* 
 effect of insufficient, 222. 
 
 Ravenscraiff, the wiialer, 40'). 
 
 Records, orders for keeping, 109. 
 
 Reindeer, 173, 404. 
 
 Reliance on God alone, 26!t. 
 
 Relics of Frobisher's expedition, 117; of 
 Franlilin's, 120; of Captain C. F. Hall, 
 1.19 ; of U. S. steamship Polaris, 3'>r>. 
 
 Refraction, curious efiects of, 24 ; causes 
 mistakes, 24. 
 
 Relief parties, r)3-f.3, 04, 119. 
 
 liensseluer Harbor, ice encumbered, 39.'». 
 
 Reporter of New York Herald on Ti- 
 gress, 347. 
 
 Rescue, the tender to Advance, r>7 ; lost, 
 97 ; rescue parties (see Relief) of ice- 
 floe party, 331 ; of Polaris survivors, 
 405. 
 
 Resolute, British ship, finding of the, 93 ; 
 drift of, 95. 
 
 Resolution Island, 78. 
 
 Repulse Bay, 97 ; harbor, 150. 
 
 Robeson, Hon. George M., Secretary 
 United States Navy, 2 ; Channel, 149. 
 
 Roquette, M. De la, 37. 
 
 Ross, Sir John, 37, 47; James C, 47, 
 .54. 
 
 Rudolph, Governor, 137. 
 
 Sailors' tricks, 87 ; parlor, 50. 
 
 Saturday-night usage, 309. 
 
 Scarcity of game on floe, 275. 
 
 Scenery, Arctic, 153. 
 
 Schoonmaker, commander U. S. steam- 
 ship Frolic, 341 ; report of, 341. 
 
 Scientific instructions, 431 ; notes, 410; 
 devotees, 71. 
 
 Scotch hospitality, 406; whalers, 371, 
 377. 
 
 Sea-drenched, 315. 
 
 Seals, different species, 236 ; meat heat- 
 giving, 290 ; blubber of, 210 ; how 
 caught, 217, 230; blood -soup, 250; 
 saving the blood on floe, 272 ; a pet, 
 89 ; small Greenland, 286 ; divided a la 
 Esquimaux, 235; bladder- nose, 78, 
 289 ; size of a rare specimen, 195 ; on 
 the ice-floe eat the whole but gall and 
 bones, 270 ; six hundred killed by the 
 crew of the Tigress, 334. 
 
 Separation of floe from Polaris, 198 ; lo- 
 cality of, 398. 
 
 Sheddon, Rolwrt, 5.^. 
 
 Shot used for weights, 212. 
 
 Signal set on tlie floe, 204 ; fire, of blub- 
 ber, 326. 
 
 Silence of Arctic night, 170. 
 
 Simpson and Dease's journey, 46. 
 
 "Sick-list," none kept on Polaris, 473; 
 all hands after the rescue, 335; crew 
 on the floe from eating oogjook-liver, 
 298. 
 
 Sixty hours of storm-turmoil, 301. 
 
 Sledges, native, 396; improved, 349; of 
 unfranied skins, 287; excursion of Cap- 
 tain Hall, 155; of Dr. Bessel, 176 ; of 
 Captain Tyson, 180. 
 
 Smith Sound, currents of, 3H8 ; pack-ice 
 of, 395 ; little ice in winter in, 389 ; In- 
 spector Karrup, 1,35. 
 
 Smithsonian Institution, 413. 
 
 Snow, red, analyzed, 37 ; snow-blindness, 
 189 ; huts, how built, 209 ; Mr. W. P., 
 56. 
 
 Snf)wed under, 202 ; in, 264. 
 
 Solemn entrj' in jonrnid in view of death, 
 259. 
 
 Soup, ice-floe recipes for, 223, 224, 310. 
 
 Southern fiord, 177. 
 
 Sphinx, the northem, 19. 
 
 St. Johns, port of, 1.33 ; trouble at, 134. 
 
 Stars, beauty of, 247. 
 
 Stealing food, 250, 318. 
 
 Steam first used on Arctic waters, 46. 
 
 Steamship sighted from floe, 204, 326. 
 
 "Stone- fever, "a bad case of, 378. 
 
 Succi's chronic cry, 263. 
 
 Suicide, reflections on, 294. 
 
 Summer tents of natives, 125, 401. 
 
 Sumner, Senator, 100 ; head-land, 423. 
 
 Sun, Arctic summer, 153, 187, 188; dis- 
 appears, 157 ; re-appears, 175, 246 ; 
 mock, 176. 
 
 Sunday on Polaris, 142, 166 ; on Tigreu, 
 360. 
 
 "Symmes's Hole," 148. 
 
 " Table-turning" without spirits, 379. 
 
 "Tea," pemmican, 233. 
 
 Terror, British steamship (see Erebus), 51. 
 
 Tessuisak (or Tossac), harbor of, 138. 
 
 Thanksgiving-day on Polaris, 169 ; on the 
 floe, 233. 
 
 Thermometer useless; mercury frozen, 
 254. 
 
 Tides, 173, 410. 
 
 Tigress, the, rescues ice-floe party, 335 ; 
 bought by United States Government, 
 344 ; sails in search of Polaris and sur- 
 vivors of expedition, 350 ; reaches Lit- 
 tleton Island, 353 ; a stormy voyage — 
 returns to Brooklyn Navy Yard — pleas- 
 ant remembrance of officers, 387 ; list 
 of ofiBcers and crew, 347. 
 
4m 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Tobacco, praise of, 28.'1, 29:1 ; n present 
 of, '_'!•:» ; out of, a:i2. 
 
 Tohiiis, the little Ihjv, stick on the floe, 257, 
 2t>;{ ; recovered, .'{02. 
 
 Too-k(K)-lito (see Iliinnuh). 
 
 TosHjic (see Tcssuisuk). 
 
 Toiijjli eating, 2.'<.">. 
 
 True Lore, the, an old English whaler, 91. 
 
 "Turning in " on the floe, ol'G. 
 
 Tyson, ('«i)tain (Jeorge E., 7*i; early life 
 and first whaling voyage, 77 ; as boat- 
 steerer on the lieorife Ilenrij ; sights 
 the Hritish ship Resolute, !»2 ; goes 
 over the ice to her with three com- 
 panions, lt;{ : rcftorts his treasure-trove 
 to his captain, 9.') ; sails as master of 
 brig (teurjfiann, 'Mi ; takes the first whale 
 ever caught in llepulse Bay, 97 ; subse- 
 (pient voyages of, 98 ; meets Captain C. 
 F. Hall in Arctic regions, 97; supplies 
 him with a boat, 98 ; joins Polaris 
 e.xpedition, 99; makes sledge -journey 
 north, 180 ; goes on boat exjjcdition \ 
 to Newman Bay, 18(! ; proposes i)e- 
 destrian trip, 188 ; separated from Po- ' 
 laris, 198 ; his fortunes on the ice- 
 floe, 198-328 ; drifts one hundred and 
 ninety-six days, lilU ; sails in searching 
 steamship Tigress, 'Si>6 ; visits Budding- 
 ton's deserted camp, 3GG; journal of 
 cruise, 35G-38C. 
 
 Unexi'i.ored area, 73. 
 
 United States Arctic expeditions, 125. 
 
 Upernavik,138,371 ; agoodtimethere,372. 
 
 Useless cruising, 383. 
 
 Uses of Arctic exploration, 68. 
 
 Vki,(K'itv of Arctic winds, I7<;. 
 Victory, the first steamship in Arctic 
 
 seas, 4f!. 
 Visited by land-birds, 319, .184. 
 Visitor, an unmannerly, 250. 
 
 Walk to Captain Hall's grave, 175; a ten- 
 miles' walk on the floes, 29(5. 
 
 Walker, ('ape, 00, 02. 
 
 Walrus, hanl to kill, 147 ; the sealer, .340. 
 
 Water, drinking — how obtained on floe, 
 279. 
 
 Waves, force of, 382. 
 
 Weakness, evidences of, 213, 28C. 
 
 Wellington Channel, .59. 
 
 Whale-meat " drugs," 90. 
 
 Whales, tlitt'erent species, 85; "right " 
 and white, size of, 80 ; prolonged strug- 
 gle with a, 86. 
 
 White, Lieutenant, I'^nited States Navy, 
 370; Captain E. W., letter of, 423. 
 
 Winds, Arctic, 107, 440. 
 
 Winter-quarters, of Barentz, 29, 420 ; in 
 Cumberland (Jnlf, 89; jireparing for, at 
 Thank (iod Harbor, 158; Biiddington's, 
 402; Dr. Hayes's, 394; Dr. Kane's, 389; 
 at Niountelik, 98. 
 
 Without water to drink, 313. 
 
 Woolen clothing in Arctic climate, 146. 
 
 Wrangel, Baron, his open I'olar sea, 
 33. 
 
 York, Cape, 364. 
 Young ice, 201, 271. 
 
 Zero, forty degrees below, 255, 473. 
 Zoology, Arctic, 390, 412. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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