IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ 128 1 2.5 " 1^ 12.2 ^ lis IIIIIM 1.8 lA ill 1.6 V] <^M e. %. .V %' /a V M Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / fnstitut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag^e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pelliculde I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes g^ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Relid avec d'autres documents Tight binding may causa shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6x6 film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m^thode normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. Thi to 1 I I Coloured pages/ D D D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es piqudes □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur6es et/ou pellicul^es H Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcolordes, tachetdes ou piqu( □ Pages detached/ rb^**** ddtach^es 0Showthrough/ Transparence Transparence Quality of prir Qualit^ indgale de I'impression Includes supplementary materia Comprend du materiel suppldmentaire I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film6es d nouveau de faqon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. Th< poi of filnl Ori be( the slo oth fira sio or Th) shf Tl^ wh Ma dif ent be{ rigl req me This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de rMuction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grAce d la g6n6rosit6 de: La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in iceeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetA de l'exemplaire filmi, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimie sont film6s en commengant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmis en commengant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par ia derniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol •^►(meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN ". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 A partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 .V a ji^tl H\ ^r ,.,,„*-^ 11 or -^^ V''jLy^ '"'•T-^Y'- ■fauvltiii BRITISH -I L o jco too .100 too JOO lonaUuae Wnrt liivefOfii-A XtTidon ■ I^tb. bi/ ifie i-t'ovf tor promoting CfTru-iiari KncwUiL \ N m>^^«^'^^ 7honi promotiiio I'MtHian Knowledge ■ 13-f7. £l,u\ 1^-' xi^' Eehhrbmf limestone OTiondaita Salt- tTf,n4f> 2niUfani limestone MtUftmt Shaie Clinton lh\mp MetHtia Sandftone /• Sectiaa from L.Ei-ie '»tfwr i \ L .^)nuTU>r. ,'f(>0 oiiiufr rni/tv lonn. iSV ■ ' '■ ^' / •- • Z V .S "^ S Jtidtftw oht'w'^L. O'lfitrio! ^^ I 4 i§ ' '^ ' fiorul Liiki •3 5 lake Sintio \ Ifvt'l or Huron. ,W ntih'.s u » ^J / /• ■>." -i '-'* S; y ^ ^)jl*Hul ,>t tUlLf I \ M /■ ('"f{ifi*f Jri'niiUs I luk'c Siifni'u-r ('"-.T i'lft uboyc the Siti , J'^'OO t\ti deij* , d'- .'fL' Irti above Lake Huron. Huron .;.<'.»' l':00 :iO trie J-: lie J(>S 1'70 JM Ontario Ontario -IJi .WO 1i> K%>0 dcff Hoiixonlal Seale . i ihs of an Inc/i to li'V lh%>onif>/uta/ J/i/e.v: I'etiiciil , about ihth of im Lu-h to JCV f-'eet I 1 1 I i I Ski'tcli of tlio LAKE DISTRICT K- jvinx'tKni nf" the Jth-pi-s Ottawa K" S*. Lirwifjue. (it^tttfuphuiil A/iltw I ■ ' ■ ■ i' 1 L . Ontario^ A'tuf/irft Jfi'ffs. /.,>iult>n liih. hti thi- .foe" for proniotitM CItrixtitU) £ni>wlittur • i Inkv Sinu^*e I ifitUf a,,)/ ■ ('nf{imf, ir'Jtnites. L . ibit ilinhm im'Up ^plfe e 11 1 a J- i c) Soctian fraiu L. Ei-ie to L . ()iit al- io. _i TK. Hiutfux, .sc. ■tn'titio iJirutiatt £howltthtr , Ifl47. s^ i A V 1 l^RlTrsil COLONIES IN NORTIT AMEIIICA. I CAxXADA. 1 lir.LlSIIEl) INDKK THK 1) 1 K !•( I K.N (M' iUi; (OM.MITTEE OF (iKNLRAL LlTKRATl'BE AND K DU( A TloN . Ai'iOlNTKl) ]?Y THE SOCIETY TOK I'UOMOTINli to HISTIAN KNOWLEDGE. L O iN I) () N : PUINTED FOR THE SsOCIF/rV FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWl.ELHi K; SOLD AT THE DEPOSITOHY, (JKEAT ftUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN Fir.LDS, AND 4, ROYAL EXCHANGE; AND nV ALL BOOKSELLERS. ^' 1847. c '/ ' // /■ /I J ^ ^ ^J /-> / ''Z ^ ■/- / /■ ■; ^ /? / ^^ ■'' '/ /- ^ / / /:. ^ i>^. ■ I / J ^ / ,/ / V < zn. i// V ' / c/ / / /. / LONDON -. R. CIAV, rhiNlEU, BKF.AD STRERT IHM r 11 E F A C E. iX' yi'/ r a The sketch of the History and Topo- grapliy of Canada, her past and present condition, and futnre prospects, contained in the following pages, liad its origin in tlie want of some snch manual experienced by the writer when in the Colony, and expressed by him to the Society for Promoting Chris- tian Knowledge. As, therefore, it has been compiled prin- cipally as a hand-book for the emigrant and settler, it in some measure partakes of the utilitarian spirit that prevails in the western world, aiid has been arranged rather with a view to usefulness than amusement. To those, however, already resident in the Colony, or about to become so, this will not perhaps prove its least recommendation, for that which is really useful cannot but be interesting ; and it is presumed that it will IV PREFACE. / // be found to contain all necessary information, whether general or local, historical or topo- graphical : while to those who remain at home it is hoped it may not ]n*ove less acceptable as a concise account of a conntry already raised to an important position by the energies of the British race, and destined, donbtless, hereafter to occnpy a prominent phice in tlie affairs of the world. It needs but to be known to be appreciated ; and the slight knowledge hitherto possessed by the many has oi)erated very much to its disad- vantao'c. If the information collected in this little Work shall tend to liohten the labours of any of its inhabitants, or soothe the anxieties of their friends at home — to give the former more confidence in its future prospects, or interest tlie latter more deeply in its welfare, the object of the AYork will have been sufficiently attained. I 4 i C. G. N. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. OUTLINES OF DESCRIPTION. m m the N. The importance to which the Anglo-Saxon Colonies in North America have risen, great as it already is, can be considered but a par- tial fulfilment of the sanguine anticipations of those through whose labours they were first established on her shores, or who fos- tered their infancy. It is true, that the hope of obtaining, like the Spaniards in Mexico and South America, an abundant supply of the precious metals, and of discovering a direct passage to the Indies, incited the first colonists and explorers of the Northern Continent to their arduous undertakings, so that even Sir Walter Raleigh was carried away by these B I / 2 BRITISH DOMINIONS fallacies of the age, which, indeed, were con- stantly strengthened by the reports of disco- verers who feigned to have sailed from one sea to the other, or to have reached in their travels countries abounding in the much-de- sired riches ; nor were these dreams entirely dispelled until the last generation by the dis- coveries of Vancouver.* Yet, when the eastern coast of the Continent came to be better known, and its natural capabilities more justly estimated, its gigantic resources for commercfi^and agriculture began to be esteemed by its inhabitants more than a suf- ficient compensation for the loss of those phantom treasures which had allured their ancestors to their western home. The feelings arising from this are embodied in the often quoted verses of the philosophic Berkeley^ published fifty years previous to the declara- tion of independence, by those now de- signated the United States. " There shall be sung another golden age. The rise of empires and of arts; The good and great inspiring epic rage, The wisest heads, the noblest hearts. * Vide Appendix A, ^ tt IN NORTH AMERICA, Not such as Europe breeds in her decay ; Such as she bred when fresh and young, When heavenly fame did animate her clay, By future poets shall be sung. " Westward the course of empire takes its way ; The four first acts already past, A fifth shall close the drama with the day. Time's noblest offspring is the last." And if we consider the rapid strides with which those countries have attained their present position among the nations of the world, we shall not esteem his expressions altogether hyperbolical.* We are not, perhaps, in a condition to institute a fair comparison between their progress and the advance of any others of which history informs us, the knowledge it affords on this subject being insufficient; nor can we, it may be, estimate the advantage these have derived from the rapid develop- ment of the sciences and diffusion of knowledge which have so conspicuously marked the present generation : still it may be asserted, without fear of contradic- tion, that the history of the world offers no * Vide Appendix B. '; 11 m 4 'A lWa\ 1, • i«v, 4 tt, u BRITISH DOMINIONS • fl 10 BRITISH DOMINIONS . •) \ A I. m I ;' By this test the limits of New Caledonia "would be confined by a line drawn from Mount St. Elias, in a south-easterly direction, round the head waters of the Turnagain, Finlay, and Peace rivers, to that part of the E-ocky Mountain chain, where the 54th pa- rallel of latitude cuts the 120th meridian of longitude, (avoiding fractions,) from whence those mountains, assuming a more definite character, divide the eastern from the west- ern waters of the continent. In the same manner may be traced the limits of the next district. Bounded on the west by the Rocky Moun- tains, it wants in other directions, such lofty bulwarks; its surface, comparatively flat and destitute of hills, is overspread with lakes and their tributary rivers : these will, however, upon inspection, be found to re- solve themselves into two systems; — those which, by the Slave Lake and Mackenzie Eiver, and the smaller rivers on the north coast, fall into the Arctic Ocean : and those which supply Lake Winipeg, and fall into Hudson's Bay; and being entirely distinct from those which belong to the great lakes of hf '.',"' — IN NORTH AMERICA. 13 and tributaries of the St. Lawrence to the east, and the Missouri to the south, serve to indicate natural divisions of the country. The third division, consisting probably for the most part of Islands, and to which the adjoining coast of Labrador may very properly be added, is kept sufficiently distinct by Simpson's Straits, the Gulf of Boothia, and the waters of Hudson's Bay; and the fourth is indicated by the course of the great chain of lakes, (the most remarkable feature of North America,) and their outlet, the river St. Lawrence, to which the Island of Newfoundland, lying within the mouth of the gulf formed by its waters, as well as Prince Edward's Island, the province of New Brunswick, and peninsula of Nova Scotia, its southern boundaries, naturally attach themselves. The northern parts of this immense tract of country lying within the Arctic circle, extend their chilling influences even over the southern, so that the temperature in them is much colder than in the same latitude in Europe ; both the mouth of the St. Lawrence and James's Bay, the southern extremity of c f. ■ i: i n .fp'l \W .)* 14 BRITISH DOMINIONS I i- ■ '!■ ■' i' 4 I :! :|:[ I ] i li i 5' / Hudson's Bay, though in the same latitude as the south of England, are locked up in ice during the winter, as are also the great part of the lakes lying still further south. This, however, does not extend to the western coast, where the navigation is open during the whole year. It has been said, that this difference of temperature is in a great degree conse- quent on the course of the currents in the sea, which, originating generally in the cold northern regions, flow down the eastern shores of the continent, reducing the temperature of the countries which border them ; but heated by the vertical sun between the tropics, im- part a more genial warmth to the western coasts by which they return to the place of their origin. However this may be, the line of tempe- rature seems to rise with a gentle inclina- tion to the north-west in Europe and Asia as well as in America, though perhaps it is at present more evident in the latter. The cold generated in this country by its proximity to the ice of the Arctic regions, kept as it is continually compacted for want 'p:;i IN NORTH AMERICA. 15 of open sea, does not however seriously in- terfere with vegetation; the greater part being clothed with a luxuriant growth of forest trees, which extend from the southern regions, to the west of Hudson's Bay, gra- dually diminishing in size, as far as the edge of the Arctic circle; indeed few countries are more generally fertile than the southern portion of these ; nor are they wanting in anything requisite for the use of man, having abundant supplies of minerals and metals, not omitting coal. This, though only partially known of the northern and western districts, is well ascertained in the southern and eastern. Forming part only of the lake district, to which equally belong those portions of the states of Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York, which border on them, they contain in themselves a regular geological series, from the primitive granite, gneiss, &c. to the later rocks, and coal. The latter now indispensible mineral, abounding in Michigan, is also found plentifully in New Brunswick and Prince Edward's Island, 1: '"' i •!" i ' ' '. ■ I 'M i ] > I : vi i' iir f J' HP 16 BRITISH DOMINIONS I IJ ^^U- as also in Nova Scotia, in which districts are contained great mineral treasures. But as the most remarkable feature of the country is its waters, so are these the great means of developing its resources, whether natural or artificial, and are therefore worthy of particular attention. They may be con- sidered in two divisions : — external and in- ternal. If the British dominions in North America be considered with reference to the Atlantic, they will be found to possess all facilities re- quisite for commerce, even to a superabun- dance. From the Bay of Fundy on the south, with its tributary harbours of Passa^- maquoddy, the waters of which separate New Brunswick from the United States, St. John's, Cumberland Basin, the Bay of Mines, and Annapolis, to which, as yet, trade is for the most part confined, round the east coast of Nova Scotia, where that of Halifax is of sufficient importance to prevent the necessity of mentioning others, we pass to Cape Breton, with its innumerable havens and inlets, and the extraordinary arm of the IN NORTH AMERICA. 17 sea called Bms d'Or,* which divides it into two parts, thence by Prince Edward's Island, having on the south Hillsborough Bay, and on the north Richmond Bay, and the harbours of Miramichi and Cha- leurs, to Cape Gaspe. Here commences the entrance to the St. Lawrence, by which admission is at once gained to the heart of the country, and which has, especially on its north side, several promising ports; — and further north, round the coasts of Labrador, the deep indentation formed by the waters of Hudson's Bay, gives a sea- board and water communication to the greater part of the country ; and if the navigation be, as yet, in the less frequented parts, difficult and dangerous, it is only be- cause they are so, and just in the same propor- tion. What coast would be otherwise with- out lights, buoys or pilots, and but partially and imperfectly surveyed ? Indeed if this * The Bras d'Or is about 50 miles long and 20 broad, "v^ith an average depth of 30 fathoms, everywhere secure for the navigation of large vessels, and abounding in coves and inlets, where they are now loaded with timber 40 miles from the ocean, and which "afford the benefit of inland navigation to almost every farm in the country." c 3 I '') V i ( ! .' I It . > li ■« •' s 4, i !; ' I 18 BRITISH DOMINIONS M: •1;; 1 ' I 4 i '.1 ht i I f ¥ m presents some dangers and difficulties, they should be thought more than compensated by the abundance of harbours and natural faci- lities it affords. But if the water communication on the east side be, as represented, excellent, it is equally so on the west. It is true, that the best part of the waters on that coast have been ceded to the Americans, but still suffi- cient harbourage remains for all commercial purposes. The Island, or, as they are now known to be. Islands of Quadra and Van- couver, afford many excellent harbours, both on the western coasts, by Nootka Sound, and on the eastern, which are closely connected by the channels which separate the Islands ; while, to the north, Vancouver found many of great excellence, which has been since fre- quently tested by the fur-trading vessels ; and although the tides are rapid and the channels of extreme depth, yet he bears willing testimony to their sufficiency for all the purposes of commerce and nr^vjcation.* * The Island of Vancouver and Quadra was so named by the English navigator at the request of Senor Quadra, the Spanish commandant at Nootka. Its eastern coasts having been surveyed by the Spaniards, Vancouver copied IN NORTH AMERICA. 19 The harbours on the east coast admit the trade of central and southern America and the West Indies, as well as Europe, Africa and Western Asia; while those on the westerii jimst ultimately abound with the rich mer- chandize of eastern Asia and the Pacific. To estimate rightly the value of the internal water communication of this country, it is necessary to consider i^ also in two rela- tions : 1st. As to the harbours, connecting them with the interior, and, 2d. As to the connexion existing between the various systems of rivers and lakes, by which that communication is kept up ; — but this, to be appreciated, must be extended beyond the limits of the countries under consideration, indeed over the whole of the northern continent, for otherwise all the varied produce of the southern states of the Union, Mexico, and California, would now. :i.<.^i their charts, from which it was concluded that the coast was continuous. Succeeding navigators have, however, ascertained that it is in most places covered by Islands, small Archipelagos of which lie recessed in deep sounds, if indeed some of the channels do not penetrate entirely through. >i 20 BRITISH DOMINIONS u ^ ill Mi and hereafter as it increases in importance, be virtually excluded. And first, the connexion between the har- bours and the interior, so necessary to the development of the resources of the country, is not wanting. The river St. John, which, with its tribu- taries, waters the greater part of New Brunswick, flows into the harbour of the same name, and is navigable to Fredericton, the seat of government; the St. Croix, which divides that province from the State of Maine, and several other smaller rivers, all navigable for some distance, empty them- selves into Passamaquoddy Bay. The water communication between the Bay of Mines and Halifax is all but continuous. The Bay of Miramichi has its tributary waters; that of Chaleurs stretches deeply into the land, and receives those of the Resti- gouche ; while the many streams which unite with the St. Lawrence, all afford means of communication, of various degrees of facility, with the interior. Of these the most re- markable are the Saguenay and Ottawa, the former having a channel of extreme a c IN NORTH AMERICA. 21 depth for upwards of 60 miles, and the latter having afforded the means of connecting by a canal the great river with Lai^e Ontario. But all these sink into insignificance before the unparalleled inland navigation, developed by those mighty lakes, from whence the St. Lawrence derives its vast volume of waters. To estimate this by comparison, — it may be said to extend further on a direct line than from New Orleans to St. Louis, or the junc- tion of the Missouri and Mississippi, on the latter of which rivers the navigation is in- creased to four times the distance, by its cir- cuitous course; so that by this access is at once obtained as far into the interior, in about one quarter of the distance ; to say nothing of the great extent of coast laid open by the length and breadth of the lakes, — and when to this the river St. Lawrence itself is added, it may be said with truth, that no inland navigation at present in use, or indeed that is known to exist, can be placed for one moment in comparison with it.* * The navigation of the Mississippi is constantly im- peded by trees, &c., brought down by its current, when at n 1 4 i! m 1 1 ^^ (J 22 BRITISH DOMINIONS I m I Extending on a base of 650 miles, by a circuitous course for upwards of 1,000 miles, independent of Lake Michigan, which stretches southward for upwards of 300 more, they offer the benefits of water com- munication to a greater extent of country than can be found in any part of the known world within the same limits, which is greatly increased by the tributary waters of the numberless streams flowing into them. Nor will the countries round Hudson's Bay, the Arctic Ocean, or on the Western Coast, be found deficient in this particular when the necessities of commerce shall direct at- tention to them. But if the connexion existing between the interior and the sea be found thus per- fect, what shall we say of that which unites the various systems of inland navigation throughout the Continent ? It must be con- fessed as remarkable as the other. It is evident, upon the consideration of the its height ; these have occasioned alterations of the chan- nels at its mouth, and extended the lands about them far into the sea. On account of these impediments and its rapid current it is chiefly navigated by steam vessels — another point of inferiority. IN NORTH AM£ .1. \. 23 internal water communicatu n, tha North America is yet in the transition state, ] o- (luced by the partial draining of the tt )le lands and ranges of hills ; these latter are not of much consequence of themselves, except as indicating the watershed of the country. Of them, next to the liocky Mountains, the most important is that which extends along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, and northward of the great lakes, a branch of which stretches to the north-east through Labrador. The whole extent of this range shows a gradual subsidence of the water level, and consequent gradual draining of the table lands, a circumstance in the world's history that may be traced in every country, but here is more particularly evidenced; as it has not as yet proceeded far enough to separate, by any serious distance, the head waters of the rivers. This is probably owing, in a great measure, to the want of any very lofty ranges of hills, and, generally, of consi- derable elevation in the undulations of the ground. This, however, must not be understood as ■1%. \ ■lit KiXeJj^- 24 BRITISH DOMINIONS ^ y III 'M. if the country had a flat appearance, for we measure eminences, for the most part, by the standard of the human body, and not by the relation they bear to the l)ase on which they stand ; so that, although speaking with re- ference to man, there are hills, and indeed the scenic effect of the country is often highly diversified, yet, if their height be compared with the extent of country to which they are related, or the waters of which they arc the boundaries, it will appear extremely in- significant* Consequent upon this inconsiderable ele- yation of the land dividing the waters of the country, is their general proximity and diffusion over its surface ; so much so, that those flowing into the North Sea, Hudson's Bay, and Lake Superior, approach within a very few miles of each other, and those flow- ing into the North Sea within a few hun- dred yards of those falling into the Pacific ; indeed, it is not without diflSculty that their separate courses are distinguished on the map. Taking Lake Winipeg, and its system of waters, as a centre, we observe on every side I if m^ IN NORTH AMERICA. 25 rivers spreading in opposite directions, from the more elevated lands among which it is situated. To the north, those of the Mackenzie and its tributaries ; to the east, those connected with Hudson's Bay and the great lakes; to the south, the Missouri and its tributaries ; thus uniting the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic with the Arctic Ocean. Nor is this all; for, separated as the territory west of the Rocky Mountains appears at first sight to be from that to the east, it will be seen, on examination, that their waters, as has been remarked, approach closely to each other ; insomuch that the south branch of the Columbia is no less closely connected with the Missouri and its tributaries, the Yellowstone and Platte, which unite it to the Mississippi, than with the Rio Grande del Norte, which flows through the northern province of Mexico, and the Colorado, which empties itself into the Gulf of California; while the northern approaches closely to the tributaries of Lake Winipeg and the Mac- kenzie, as do also the more northerly waters of New Caledonia and those of Eraser's, D f' I lliiiij I ' i .tp m k i il 26 BRITISH DOMINIONS" ii : ^1 River; thus completing the union of the whole with the Pacific. It will thus appear, that of this water communication the British dominions In North America have their full share, and although the Inhabitants of them are, by the late treaty with the United States, deprived of the facilities offered by the Columbia, yet Mackenzie's journey has demonstrated the possibility of finding a passage to the Pacific further north; so that, while they possess water communication between the Atlantic, Pacific, Hudson's Bay, and the Arctic Ocean, they derive great prospective advantages from that which exists to such perfection In the southern part of the continent, by which, under a commercial system of reciprocal ad- vantages, they may have the produce of the warmer latitudes conveyed to them with ease and expedition ; and by means of these natural thoroughfares, facilities are afforded for the colonization of the central portions of the country, which are in many respects peculiarly fitted for it. And though It be urged that a great part of this is only available for canoes and batteux, ti' 1^^ IN NORTH AMERICA. 27 it must be remembered, that these are of necessity the only vessels within the means of the first settlers, and that their passage opens the path into the wilderness at once, which could otherwise be trodden but by the slow process of road-making, while on the other hand it may be asserted with truth, that the greater part of it is now open for and navigated by large vessels. Canals have done much, and may do more, to complete what nature has left unfinished; and it is sufficient to point to the rapid spread of colonization over the more southern parts of North America, to convince the most scep- tical of the immense value of this inland water communication. It is also to be remembered, that this pecu- liar character of water, viz. rivers of mode- rate size, flowing through undulating country, swelling out frequently into lakes, and inter- secting the whole by their numerous branches, offers each new settler the means of supply- ing his immediate w^ants, which no other could afford; the more rapid waters will give power to work his saw and grist mills, and about the lakes and more moderately inff 1 ■!! ! : M J il i:-l V ^?. . 28 BRITISH DOMINIONS i I ■ ii- ' in r ii t flowing streams, the rich '^ interval"* is never wanting with its naturally luxuriant crop of grass, affording plentiful fodder for his cattle in winter, for the labour of cutting and pre- serving; nor is it less to be desired as the abode of abundance of game, from which his natural wants may be supplied, or as afford- ing in winter a more practicable road than even in summer. It is the source of all his early comforts, as of his subsequent wealth — and that which ultimately subsides before the progress of cultivation will be long remembered with gratitude, as the origin of fertility and abundance. To sum up these advantages, it is in short, a country that has only one want — a want which has indeed been supplied with an extraordinary rapidity, but still utterly beneath its power of con- sumption, for, although the rifle of the settler has rung in the woods of the Columbia, and among the wilds of New Caledonia, and his axe and canoe have explored the paths by wood and water from the Atlantic to the * Interval, or intervale, low or alluvial land on the margins of rivers ; so called in the New England States. — Worcester's Dictionary. — Vide Appendix C. IN NORTH AMERICA. 29 Pacific, yet have the pioneers of civilization far outstripped her — while she lingers over her yet unfinished work on the shores of the Atlantic. In reviewing this, we shall be struck, not so much with what has been, as with what remains to be done ; and the remem- brance of things foregone, so far from satis- fying, should but act as a stimulus to further exertion, because it is written, the "earth shall be filled with the knowledge of the glory of God, as the waters cover the sea ;" and whatever impediment the ambition or avarice of man may place in the way, the progress of colonization and civilization, and by con- sequence of religion, can never cease till that word be accomplished. But though, doubt- less, the future destinies of this vast empire must be completed, by whom and in what manner may depend much upon ourselves. From an early period these views of inland commerce and navigation have occupied the attention of men of enlarged minds, connected with the trade of the Canadas; foremost among whom stands Sir Alexander Mac- kenzie, who, from being the first to cross the continent to the Pacific Ocean, and being d3 I .; :' ji 19 ' ■ f r :ii ■ *^' i, ill I m 30 BRITISH DOMINIONS ^1 I m i 'ifr %] 'i •*' If fi* perfectly conversant with the fur trade In all its branches, would of necessity have his at- tention much directed to the subject. From the example of the Russians in Asia, he suggested the establishment of a communication between the opposite shores of the continent, to be carried on by means of the rivers and lakes of British North America. This has been in some sort com^ pleted, i. e. as far as the Pacific, by the Hud- son's Bay Company, whose servants annually journcj between Hudson's Bay and the river Columbia : it yet remains to bring back the merchandise of the east by the same route, which will not, in all probability, be accom- plished till an English colony is established on the western coasts of North America, which, if only on account of the Canadas, is much to be desired. But in these countries every thing should be considered with reference to the future ; all should be looking forward, and if they reap not themselves the benefits of their foresight, they know at least they bequeath them to their children. A new country can never be the place of rest ; man is not placed w^H^^'^w-'mfmf IN NORTH AMERICA. 31 I .? there as in the garden of Eden to dress it and keep it, but to be the pioneer of civiliza- tion and religion, the advanced guard of the mighty army that is hereafter to bring the whole into subjection, and those who take up their abode in it must be content to receive their reward in proportion ; and whether their labour be bodily or mental, whether it be bestowed on the soil or the inhabitants, the increase of wealth or ad- vancement of knowledge, morality, or above all, religion, by which indeed alone can the others be obtained and secured, it should be sufficient to know, that however small the re- sult of their endeavours may seem at present, iv will not, if undertaken in dependence on the providence of God, seem of little import- ance to those who shall rise up after them and call them blessed. Of this, sufficient evidence will appear in the sequel, but it may be noticed here as accounting for the more rapid spread of settlements towards the west in the United States than the British dominions, so often remarked upon. The former, with the fervid anticipation of I ':i ii 5^;: 32 BRITISH DOMINIONS \n si) ■i''' I: 1^^ youth, already extend In imagination their influence over the whole of North America, and in reaching forward to this shadowy dominion they are content to forget in some degree their owni identity, and for its sake to renounce not a little of their owm present comfort; while the latter, confining their desires within a smaller compass, achieve indeed a less considerable advance, but at a proportionately smaller sacrifice. How far the one has any advantage over the other, may be doubted, and can only be decided Avhen the importance of the younger members of that commonwealth shall induce them to become their own legislators, and the seeds of disunion sown far and wide over the country by the so rapid dispersion of such different elements, entirely preventing their amalgamation, bear a plentiful harvest. At present it is principally observable in their successful contests for an advantageous boundary along the whole line of their terri^ tories, and by hints and inuendos plentifully distributed in public speeches, newspapers, books, and even conversation, not unfre- quently in a very entertaining manner, as IN NORTH AMERICA. 33 when in a guide book we read — " Canada, a vast territory, belonging at present to Great Britain." Nor would it be worth remarking upon in this place if it were not likely to in- fluence the new settler, who therefore requires this warning against it, as well as against the temptations held out to him on this account to locate in the Michigan territory, the valley of the Mississippi, or even the far west. These, although tolerably suited for loca- tion by Americans, present a soil and climate, to say nothing of inhabitants and institu- tions, totally different from any thing to which natives of any part of the old country have ever been accustomed, while in the British dominions it is found by experi- ence that they get "acclimated" in a very short time ; and there nothing but want of capital can prevent the introduction of any of the scientific improvements of modern farming with profit to the speculator, in the more advanced districts ; while in the western parts of the Union they would be entirely misplaced, and in the competition with the rugged and comparatively lawless settlers of -!, ,il 1 'li i I .'i :t T' ;, W.t//.4 34 BRITISH DOMINIONS ^-'i those regions, the advantages of education, and a residence in a country in a higher state of civilization, would be entirely lost. The British North American colonies offer the labourer and artisan a sufficiency for the present, and establishment for the future; the small capitalist, whether farmer or trader, a larger and more certain return than can be hoped in the contention against those of greater wealth at home ; and to all, what all desire, "property;" and if we add to this the security of English laws, the profits of English commerce, the protection of English arms, and, may it not be said, the teaching and offices of her Church, — what English- man would go elsewhere to seek further ad- vantages, which can only be obtained by the loss of some of not the least important of these, and the attainment of which must ever be in the highest degree problematical? Moreover, an inquiry into their history will convince us that their progress has been com- mensurate with their age, and that if it be carried on In the same ratio will leave nothlnc: to be desired. %, IN NORTH AMERICA. 35 CHAPTER II. DISCOVERY AND HISTORY. The genius and courage of Columbus hav- ing opened a new world to the enterprise of Europe, his example was speedily followed by other navigators, second only to himself in the importance of their discoveries. Foremost among these, John Cabot and his sou Sebastian, Italians in the service of Henry VII. of England, first essaying the dangers of the more northern seas, were rewarded by the discovery of Newfoundland, in 1497, which was named by them Nova Vesta ; they examined the coast as far as 67^ 50' N. latitude, and entered and explored some part of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is probable that they also first entered the strait since known as Hudson's Strait, although Caspar Cortereal was the first to land on the coast of Labrador, in 1499 or 1500. But, in 1506 and 1508, the French navigators Denys and Aubert traced the i^j- ft I V If m :! ^rM^ ? .1.1. •" , m M.ri. ■'■±1' -i!.'! is 'ttti V. f — tl? f'.'k 36 BniTISH DOMINIONS i.l * J; coasts more particularly, and the value of the fisheries having become generally known, the number of European ships engaged in them nine years after amounted to fifty. To the two Italian navigators already mentioned, Columbus and Cabot, was now to be added a third; for, in 1522, one by name Verazani, under the patronage of Francis the First of France, discovered much of the continent hitherto unknown, and taking possession of it for his sovereign, gave it the name of " Nouvelle France." In 1535 Jacques Cartier, of St. Malo, dis- covered the river St. Lawrence, which he ascended to Hochelaga,* a town of the native Indians, where he established a fort, which he named Mont Eoyal, where the city of Montreal now stands. Cartier had been engaged in the cod fishery, and was therefore considered by Philippe Chabot, then admiral of France, a fit person to lead such an expedition. His choice was in a great measure justified by the result. He sailed on his first expedition the 20th of April, 1534, with "two ships of * Pronounced by the Hurons, Hoh-el-luga. ;4v« IN NORTH AMERICA. 37 threescore tons apiece burthen, and sixty well appointed men in each." Having reached Newfoundland In twenty days, and passed through the Straits of Belleisle, he crossed the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to a bay which he named ^^Des Chaleurs," on account of the great heat of the summer, and from thence proceeded to " Gaspe " or ^^Gachepe" Bay, when having taken possession of the country by erecting a cross, and persuaded two of the natives to return with him, he left it and arrived in France in the Septem- ber following. The next year he obtained a new com- mission, and sailed with three vessels, on the 19th May, 1535. Having been separated by a storm, the fioet was united again in July on the coast of Newfoundland, and proceed- ing westward, came to a *^goodly great gulf, full of islands, passages and entrances, to- wards what wind soever you please to bend." It was the 10th of August, and being the festival of St. Lawrence, he gave it the name of that saint, which has since been applied tiot only to the whole gulf but the river as well. E I. • 38 BRITISH DOMINIONS He entered the Sagaenay, and proceeded thence up the river until he arrived at the Isle of Orleans, named by him, from the luxuriance of the vegetation generally, and especially of the vines, the Isle of Bacchus. Here he was visited by Donnacona, pompously styled by him the " Lord of Canada," whose resi- dence was at Stadacona, a fort situated on the site of the present city of Quebec. Leaving his vessels in the safe harbour of Port de St. Croix, on the river St. Charles, and having learned that there existed up the river a town of much greater importance, he determined, regardless of the distance and lateness of the season, to attempt to reach it. For this purpose he took the smallest of his vessels, the Hermerillon, and two long boats, with provisions and ammunition. He was everywhere well received and assisted by the natives. The chief of the district of Hochelai, now Richelieu, visited him, and gave him one of his own children, about seven years old. After some diffi- culties, incident to their ignorance of the best channel, they arrived, on the 2nd of October, about six miles below the town. IN NORTH AMERICA. 39 The natives received tlicm with every de- monstration of joy, and Cartier distributed presents among them. The next day, passing through large fields of Indian corn, he entered Hochelaga, for so the town was named. He found it circular in form, composed of three rows of palisades or pickets, well joined together; it contained fifty cabins or lodges, each fifty feet long by fif- teen broad, formed of wood covered with bark. The fort had but one entrance; and, as well as the lodges, was surrounded by gal- leries, for the discharge of missiles. The lodges formed a circle, in the centre of which the fire was kindled.* From the town Cartier proceeded to the mountain in its vicinity ; he found the ground tilled all around, and giving evidence of its fertility. The splendid panorama of thirty leagues radius, which lay expanded beneath him as he stood on the eastern summit, excited his admiration and gratified his ambition. He named the hill Mont Royal, in honour of the king his master; * The description of this town accords closely with those given of the Indian towns on the north-west coast. m I ! ; li %4 50 BRITISH DOMINIONS r«:'"ii fili m m m treaty of St. Gormam-en-Laye, resigning to France all his title to Canada and Nova Scotia, Champlain returned to Quebec as viceroy, with extended powers and a consider- able accession to the numbers of the colonists. He died, however, two years afterwards, universally regretted; and celebrated no less as a historian, traveller, seaman, and mathe- matician, than for his able management of the aifairs of the colony. He was succeeded by M. Montmagny. The exertions of the priests and Jesuits for the spread of the Roman Catholic faith now became most energetic, and were actively seconded by the inhabitants. A College was founded at Quebec by Rene Rohault, a priest, and the Ursuline convent by Madame de la Peltrie ; the Hotel Dieu at Sillery was also erected at this time; and the necessity of occupying the Island of Montreal, if the propagation of the faith among the Indians was to be attempted, soon became apparent* They, however, met but little encourage- ment from the Company, not singularly more attentive to its commercial interests, for it made full use of its privileges and monopoly. C6 IP 'I IN NORTH AMERICA. 51 A society, thirty-five In number, was there- fore formed in France, in 1640, to colonize that island ; andM. de Maisonneuve and seve- ral families proceeded to take possession, with authority as governor ; this he did the year following, with such ceremonies as it was supposed would give the natives a lofty idea of the Christian religion ; a chapel was built, and the island consecrated by the supe- rior of the Jesuits, on the 15th of August, the day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The village then built on the site of the Indian town Hochelaga, and called Ville Marie, the entire expedition being under the patronage of the Virgin, styled by them " Queen of Angels," was the origin of the city of Montreal. In 1644, it was however transferred to the order of St. Sulpice, in Paris, and by it, subsequently, to the semi- nary of the same order at Montreal, in whose possession it still remains. The aifairs of the colony progressed but slowly, the wars with the Indians con- stantly retarding them, and this sad conse- quence of Champlain's single false step led illl' , !: .!■; \m 52 BRITISH DOMINIONS r fi to a proposition as mischievous. In i647, M. Daillebont proposed an alliance with the British settlements in New England, against the Indians, which was rejected on account of their amicable relations with the Mohawk tribe. . The next year a proposition of a less ques- tionable nature was made by that colony, viz. that peace should be maintained be- tween them, even when the parent States were at war; this, however, the Canadians rejected. The Iroquois continued their wars with the other tribes; massacring the Hurons, and exterminating the Indians of Lake Erie ; and the state of the colony brought down on the governors the rebuke of the French monarch ; until, in 1663, the Baron d'Avengeour, who had been appointed to that office, had sufficient influence to get an enquiry instituted, which ended in the resig- nation by the Company of their privileges, and the erection of the colony into a royal government, to which M. de Mesy was first appointed. i On his arrival at Quebec, he put in exe- Jing ul IN NOUTIl AMERICA, 53 cutlon a royal edict ; appointing a sovereign council for the government of the province. It was to consist of seven members, includ- ing the Governor, the Bishop, and the In- tendant. A Bishop, Francis de Laval, abbot of Montigny, had been appointed three years before Louis XIV, ha\ing granted to the West India Company all the ioreign territories belonging to the French crcvn, in 1666, M. de Tracy, their governor ^>eneral, arrived in Canada, built three fo a on the Lhambley, and made successful incursions amon<^ *^^he Mohawks ; but the monopoly of the fur trade enjoyed by the Company, being ex- ceedingly irksome to the colonists, they were granted the privilege of trading in furs, sub- ject to a payment of one-fourth of all beaver. The wars with ihe Iroquois were fostered by the jealousy existing between the Cana- dians and British colonists. The French governor, De la Barre, entered into a treaty with them, after a not verv successful inroad into their territory ; but this was not last- ing : M. Denonville attempting to renew it f3 ^'liiil I' \ I. 54 BRITISH DOMINIONS h^ .'■•d ' \yf m without consulting the wishes of the Hurons^ who had so long been in league with the French, led to a tragedy that affords an apt illustration of the state of the colony and manners of the time. Kondearouk, chief of the Michillimakinac Hurons, better known in Canadian history by the name of " Le Rat," determining in consequence to put an end to the nego- tiation, and learning that the governor was at Cataraqui, where now the town of Kingston stands, awaiting the arrival of the ambassador and hostages, lay with a chosen band in ambush, killed some, and made the others prisoners. For this he pleaded the orders of the French com- mander ; but, releasing all his prisoners except one, he proceeded to Michilima- kinac, and so represented the affair to the, commandant there, as to cause him to be put to death. ■ When this was done he released an old Iroquois, who had been for some time in captivity, charging him, on his return, to inform his countrymen of the treatment they were to expect from the French, who, while IN NORTH AMERICA. 55 to lie pretending to negotiate with them, were really compassing their destruction. This diabolical deception had the desired effect. The Iroquois seized with avidity the pretext afforded by it, to break off the treaty, and Le Kat attacking Montreal by surprise, massacred 1,000 colonists, and destroyed all the houses, crops, and cattle of the island. The Indian war, thus renewed, and sup- posed by the Canadians to have been so at the instigation of the New Englanders, was the signal for war between the Pro- vinces. M. de Frontenac marched to Senec- tady, and revenged the misfortunes of Mon- treal by the massacre of its inhabitants. On the other hand. Sir William Phipps sailed to attack Quebec ; but finding the French prepared, returned to Boston. But the details of such warfare can seldom be either pleasant or profitable ; and whatever excuse can be found for the Indians, we can only blush at the imitation of their atrocities by men calling themselves civilized, and pro- fessing Christianity. Traits of individual heroism are indeed to be found on all sides* t':i i ft f- 1 m > ' '''\ II; : li 56 BRITISH DOMINIONS '11 «; i ■ I ^n. m. i: M J^^? '■'ff but they are usually such as result from mere animal courage ; and when was that ever found wanting in time of war ? M. de Callieres, who succeeded Fron- tenac, made peace with the Iroquois inde- pendently of the British colonists ; ana his successor devoted his attention to the de- struction of their interest and influence with the Indian tribes. War, however, still con- tinued between the colonies, till it was ter- minated by the treaty of Utrecht, which left the French in undisputed possession of Canada. The fur trade, which had been always the great source of wealth to the French colo- nists, seems to have been singularly adapted to the development of their energies : they extended their trading posts in all direc- tions; and later governors built forts to protect their operations. It was through the prosecution of this trade that the greater part of the interior was made known. But, in 1678, Robert Cavalier de la Salle, a native of Rouen and pupil of the Jesuits, having been long em- ployed by the Canadian government in IN NORTH AMERICA. 57 negotiation with the Indians, and explora- tion, and being commandant and proprietor of Fort Frontenac or Cataraqui, went to France, to make proposals to the government of Louis XIV. to descend the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico, and there to establish a settlement, from whence they might harrass the Spaniards, and prosecute if possible con-^ quests in that country. Marquette and Joliet had, in 1673, navi- gated that river as far south as the Arkansas, and had found ^^ genial climes, that have almost no winter but rains, beyond the bounds of the Huron and Algonquin lan- guages, to the vicinity of the Gulf of Mexico, and to tribes of Indians that had ob- tained arms by traffic with the Spaniards or with Virginia." La Salle received the desired commission, and was fortunate enough to associate with him the Cavalier Henri de Tonty, a soldier of fortune, whose assistance was subse- quently of the first importance, and who performed every service required of him with the greatest alacrity, and most devoted courage. tn '{■]:r- S8 BRITISH DOMINIONS . ' ' if' (if :^i % I '1 I i , V,. * Whatever may be thought of the objects of this expedition, the patience and cour- age displayed by these brave men cannot be contemplated without admiration ; and turn- ing from the details of the savage warfare recorded in the history of those times, the mind dwells with satisfaction upon their labours which gave the Illinois and Louisi- ana to France, and extended the boundaries of its North American provinces, from the Great Lakes to the GuK of Mexico. The expedition left Quebec in September 1678, and being joined by the RecoUet Fathers, Gabriel Louis Hennepin, and Ze- nobe Membre, proceeded to the Falls of Niagara, above which they built a vessel, and set sail across Lake Erie, 17 th August, 1679. They sailed through the lake which separates it from Lake Huron, named by them St. Clair, after the saint to whom the day on which they entered it was dedicated, and landing at the Miamis, since called St. Joseph's river, sent the vessel back to Nia- gara, and crossing to the Illinois, on the 1st of January, 1680, reached Lake Pimiteouy, now termed Peoria. From hence Father IN NORTH AMERICA. 59 Hennepin was sent on a mission to the Sioux, and here his connexion with La Salle ended. The account of the expedition which he published cannot, therefore, be depended upon for a correct narrative of events south of the Illinois. In 1681 they returned to Montreal, from whence, starting in the month of August the same year, having again reached the Missis- sippi on the 16th Feb. 1682, by way of the Illinois, with a party of twenty-three French- men, and eighteen Indians, some women and children ; following the course of the river, they came to the sea, on the 7th April ; and took formal possession of the country, in the name of the king of France, calling it, in honour of him, '^ Louisiana." La Salle remained some time in the Illi- nois, and subsequently returning to France, conducted an expedition to the Gulf of Mexico, where he established a fort; bu^i not long afterwards was murdered by some of his own men, and the fort was destroyed by the Spaniards. In 1697, the French established themselves again at the mouth of the Mississippi, under I I: \m m 1 il 60 ISRITISH DOMINIONS f 'iii the illustrious Canadian Lemoyne d'lber- ville, of the family of the Baron de Longeuil ; who, like La Salle, having been long engaged in colonial warfare and expeditions into the Indian country, proved himself admirably adapted for it. He was joined at the mouth of the river by De Tonty, with whom he proceeded a hundred leagues up the river, through the lakes named by him Maurepas and Pontchartrain. He made four voyages from France to the Gulf of Mexico, as De Tonty did several down the Mississippi, and nothing can exceed the determined bold- ness and indomitable energy which marked the French discoveries in the Illinois and Louisiana ; had the same qualities been dis- played by those subsequently concerned in their preservation, the whole of that im- mense and fertile valley might now have been in their possession, as well as Canada; and the United States, (if ever separated from Great Britain,) been confined to the regions east ofi the AUeghanies. ) It was, however, otherwise decreed in the course of Providence. The success of the English fur traders IN NORTH AMERICA. 61 provoked offensive hostilities on the part of the French, and thus commenced the war which ended in the conquest of Canada, a result probably much facilitated by the internal dissensions and weakness of the colony, incident to the rapacities and profli- gacy of the intendant, M. Bigot, whose bills were consequently dishonoured by the French Government, by which a loss ensued to the Canadians of 400,000/. In 1755, General Braddock was defeated in an attempt on the French frontiers, from his want of precaution, but the army brought off by the afterwards so justly celebrated General Washington; and he, being joined by the provincial troops under Governor Shirley and General Johnson, repulsed the French army under Baron Dieskaw, at Lake George,; and drove it back to Crown Point. The following year the Marquis de Mont- calm arrived from France at the head of a powerful army, and having reduced Fort George, suffered 2,000 of its inhabitants and garrison to be massacred by the Indians, in the face of his own army, while marching out after the capitulation without the means G 'I ''»iIHb ' 62 BRITISH DOMINIONS it -M ij I' < of defence ; an iniquitous action, the remem- brance of which nothing can ever efface, and which, by exciting, to the highest degree, the feelings of the British, served materially to hasten the conquest of Canada. In 1759, France being fully occupied In her European wars, and the hitherto dormant energies of the British nation having been roused by the heroic patriotism of Chatham, it was determined to attack Canada In three points, and utterly extinguish French domi- nion in North America. To General James Wolfe was assigned the attack of Quebec by sea, to Sir W. Johnson the reduction of Fort Niagara, while General Amherst was to proceed against the fortresses at Crown Point and Ticonderoga, and in the event of success, a junction was to be effected at Montreal. The result of the first is familiar to every Briton. Wolfe, with 8,000 men, landed in June on the Island of Orleans. To him was opposed Montcalm, with an army of 9,800, and a re- serve of 2,200 men, besides the garrison of Quebec. His first attempt at MontmorencI was un- ,M't IN NORTH AMERICA, 63 i successful, but having with the greatest bold- ness planned and achieved the ascent of the Heights of Abraham, he defea fced the army of the French the day following, the 13th of September, on the plain above, in a decisive victory, in which the leaders of both armies lost their lives. Their memories are united in a monument raised to them by a late governor of Canada. The capitulation of Quebec followed, and the other expeditions having been equally successful, the conquest of the whole country was speedily accom- plished. It is admitted on all hands, to the honour of the conquerors, that their valour and conduct in war were only exceeded by their moderation and generosity in victory. By the treaty of Paris in 1763, the whole of the French dominions in North America were surrendered to Great Britain. Undoubtedly this proved a blessing to the Canadian colonists, and as such they acknow- ledged it at the time, and have continued to do, by their loyalty, on every occasion, until within the last few years. Formerly they had been at the arbitrary disposition of their governors ; now established laws were duly if U '■ US; ( 'V- 64 BRITISH DOMINIONS ill; ! • I (. 1 enforced, while their trade was increased by their connexion with the the greatest mari- time nation in the world, and their domestic energies by the accession of English emi- grants and English capital. Until 1774, the laws of England were in force by royal proclamation, but in that year the first act of Parliament relating to Canada was passed, by which authority was invested for the control of the province in a governor, aided by a council of not less than seventeen, and not exceeding twenty- three persons, who had power to frame laws and levy taxes for local purposes. By it English criminal law was preserved, but it was ordained that in all matters of contro- versy relative to property and civil rights, resort should be had to the rule and decision of the laws of Canada. The British colonies in North America being then in rebellion, it has been considered that this Act, in all human probability, saved Canada to the British crown. The loyalty of the province was further confirmed by the restoration to the Roman Catholic clergy, of the power of enforcing payment of tithes, which, since the !S IN NORTH AMERICA. 65 conquest, had been left optional ; this, when the power of that body is rightly esthnated, will not be thought to have had a trifling effect in inducing such a result. The follow- ing year, 1775, the declaration of the inde- pendence of the New England Colonies, since called the United States, was published. The Canadians had been invited to send delegates to the Congress at Philadelphia, and on their refusal the invasion of the country was im- mediately proposed. Success followed the first operations, Chambley, St. John's, and Longeuil, falling into the hands of General Montgomery, who, in November, took pos- session of Montreal, which had previously resisted an attack of the partisan leader, Ethan Allen. Another body under General Arnold, after penetrating the woods between the Kenebec and Chaudiere rivers, in an extraordinary march of thirty-four days, joined Montgo- mery before Quebec, but failed in an attack made on the city by night, in which Montgo- mery was killed. This attack was made on the Prescott gate, under cover of a furious snow-storm. The American troops G 3 r .'li m Tf 1 W 'JlW 1;, 'w^. 1 V y 1 1 UHi'' ^k a' 66 BRITISH DOMINIONS got crowded together in the winding road leading from the lower ^; the upper town, and the contused noise o; loir advance be- trayed them to the sentinel; ihe guard of British troops and American militia opened a deadly fire on the Americans, who, under Montgomery, rushed forward with ardour ; but the path was commanded by artillery, which was served with unremitting energy tmd precision till every other sound ceased ; none were left to tell the tale of carnage, but, in the morning, every trace of it was effaced by the snow which had fallen during the night. The sun glanced brightly over its pure and spotless surface, and knew not that it was the " winding-sheet" of the brave. The numbers opposed to each other were nearly equal, being about 1,500, but in the spring that of the besieging army was raised to 8,000 : reinforcements, however, arriving from England before the end of June, the whole province was evacuated by the Ame- ricans. In 1783, Canada contained 113,000 inhabitants, exclusive of 10,000 loyalists, IN NORTH AMERICA. 67 who had located in the upper part of it, to preserve their aUegiance. About a century previous, in 1685, the population amounted only to 10,000, of which 3,000 only were capable of bearing arms. In 1790 the province was divided by Act of Parliament, giving to each part a legisla- ture, consisting of a Governor, or his repre- sentative, a House of Assembly and Legis- lative Council. The first parliament of the Lower Province was opened two years after, under Lieutenant Governor Clarke; Mr. A. Panet was elected Speaker. It consisted of thirty-nine knights, eight citizens, and three burgesses, in all fifty members. The constitution thus given to Canada enabled the colonists to apply themselves to local improvements of all kinds, but the un- settled state of the world consequent on the French Revolution, and of these colonies in particular, from the daily increasing proba- bility of war with the United States, in some measure retarded the progress of them. The union of feeling existing between those two countries on political matters, and the desire felt equally by both to deprive '■(' i It n 68 BRITISH DOMINIONS i :fi ■ .'!:'> England of the Canadas ; by the French, as being colonized by their own countrymen, and by Americans, from their ambition, ori- ginating at the birth of their commonwealth, and existing in full force up to the present time, to let no European power have one foot of land in that continent, induced both to send political emissaries to instruct orally the more ignorant among the colonists, in tlie doctrines of liberty and equality ; but their loyalty, confirmed by the recent Acts of the imperial Parliament, was not to be so shaken, and the local authorities took effec- tual means to expel the intruders. These feelings prompted the United States to declare hostilities against Great Britain in 1812, when the war in Europe was exhaust- ing all her means of offence, and when, on this account, as well as from internal dissen- sions between the Executive and Local Go- vernment, the Canadas were supposed to be particularly exposed to the attack of an enemy. The whole force then in Canada amounted to only 4,000 men, but such were the exer- tions of the Legislature, that in less than 4 IN NORTH AMERICA. 69 month, the lower province was prepared for defence. In July, General Hull entered Upper Canada with an American army, but hearing of resources at Detroit and Michilimakinac, retired; and General Brock, governor of Upper Canada, having attacked him on the 16th of August, brought the whole of his army prisoners into Montreal, within two months from the breaking out of the war. By November, however, the enemy had assembled in force on the Niagara frontier ; they crossed into Upper Canada, and were met and completely defeated at Queens- town by Brock, who died of the wounds he received in the engagement. A monument has been erected to his memory near the field of battle. Other engagements followed with various success, and in January 1813, the American General Winchester was taken at Detroit, by General Proctor, with five hundred other prisoners ; but the British failed in an attack upon Ogdensburgh. On the 27th of April the Americans landed at York, and burnt the town ; and in Mtiy the whole m 70 J311ITIS1I DOMINIONS ir 4 1 ■| i ii*?!\ ^i W: M: \y I I'l * :1 ' M' Niagara frontier was in their possession ; but on the 6th of June, they were defeated by Lieut. Col. Harvey at Burlington heights, driven back to Fort George, and the Niagara frontier restored to its integrity. In the interior, General Proctor had captured another body of about five hundred Ameri- cans on the Miamis river. Sir George Prevost failed in an attack upon Sackett's harbour, but on the 3rd of June, Lieut. Col. Taylor captured two vessels at Isle aux Noir ; and in July, Black Rock and the barracks at Plattsburgh were destroyed by the British troops. On the 10th of September the entire British force on Lake Erie under Captain Barclay having been taken by the American Commodore Perry, and General Proctor having suffered a partial defeat at Detroit, the British were obliged to retreat to Burlington heights. Lower Canada now became the theatre of war, and Montreal was threatened with a double invasion. General Hampton, with an army of seven thousand men, entered the province by the Chateauguay, on the banks of which he was met, defeated, and obliojed IN NORTH AMERICA. 71 to retire to Plattsburgh, by the provincial Militia under Lieut. Colonel de Salaberry. General Wilkinson did not commence his descent till November, on the 11th of v/hich month, General Boyd having been attacked at Chrystler's farm by Col. Morrison, with about eight hundred men, and driven to their boats, the whole army retreated by Salmon river to Plattsburgh and Sackett's harbour, and before the close of the season the Americans had deserted their own fron- tier and burnt Newark, while the British had taken Niagara and destroyed Black Rock and Buffalo. In March 1814, the Americans under Wilkinson again entered lower Canada, but were defeated at LacoUe by Major Hand- cock, and retired ; and General Brown, in July, having crossed into the upper province, captured Fort Erie: the Niagara frontier was during that and the following month the scene of several encounters between that General and Generals Drummond and Eiall, in which success upon the whole favoured the American arms, but reinforce- ments arriving strengthened the British. II ^ streams flow into the St. Lawrence, the one above, and the other into th ^ Lake St. Peter. The Richelieu being the outlet of Lake Champlain, and the Yamaska having its rise near the borders of the state of Vermont, the " habitans" residing on them, of course, lie particularly open to American influence. On the 23d of October, a great meeting took place at St. Charles, which was at- tended by M. L. J. Papineau, the Speaker of the house of Assembly, and twelve more of its members ; all allegiance was discarded, the cap of liberty raised, and an oath ad- ministered to be faithful to the revolutionary principles of which it was considered emble- matical ; and on the same day a meeting of the loyal inhabitants was convened to pre- serve the peace of the province, and the " connexion happily existing between it and the United Kingdom." On the one hand, bands of armed men paraded the disturbed districts, spreading terror and consternation on ail sides ; on the other, a gradual concen- tration of militia, loyal volunteers, and military from the upper province and Nova Scotia, while the Attorney General came IN NORTH AMERICA. 75 1 ffi. r 1 down from Quebec to take legal measures against certain foreign military officers sup- posed to be instigators of the rebellion : of these we are bound to say that none were dis- covered, yet sufficient evidence was found to justify the apprehension of such interference, if not on the part of European nations, certainly by the Americans. It was on the 5th of November, at Mon- treal, that the two parties first came into collision, but the military having been called out peace was restored. This outburst of popular feeling in the city was but the pre- lude to more serious demonstrations in the country ; so that on the 10th, Sir John Colborne, commander of the forces, re- moved his head quarters from Sorel to Montreal, and established outposts in the neighbourhood ; but two of the leaders being arrested under warrants of high treason, were rescued by the insurgents. This partial success gave them, fresh courage, and became the signal of war. The greater part of the district about St. Hya- cinth was in arms, and T. S. Brown had collected a force on the Bichelieu, and li i m i hij I 76 BRITISH DOMINIONS I , ■i!^ I :•; ii Papineau with O^Callaghan and Wolfred Nelson were in the neighbourhood. In conse* quence Colonel Gore was ordered on St. Denis, and Colonel Wetherall on St. Charles; the first expedition signally failed, but Colonel Wetherall, although he found a stockade erected and defended by two guns, after displaying his force in the hope of inducing a surrender, stormed, carried, and burned the works. Colonel Gore afterwards marched again to St. Denis, which he found deserted, and thence to St. Hyacinth. The insurgents had retreated towards Ver- mont, showing from whence they looked for sympathy and assistance, but were met and defeated by the loyal inhabitants of the border country of Mississqui : this restored order in the south. The rising there is not, however, to be considered as isolated, but as part of a general insurrection which had been planned, and the object of which was to obtain possession of Montreal, and consequently the whole province ; but there Sir John Colborne had established his head quarters, and having subdued them in the south, proceeded. El in M A mi th( IN NORTH AMERICA. 77 without delay, against those in the north, who had assembled in great force at St. Eustache, St. Benoit, and St. Scholastique, in the country of the Lake of the Two Mountains, at the entrance of the Ottawa. A strong body of regulars, supported by militia and volunteers, was directed against them with complete success. Dr. Chenier, one of the leaders, was killed; and the church at St. Eustache, as well as that at Benoit, together with many houses, were destroyed by the excited loyalists, many of whom had been driven from their homes by the insurgents. Such excesbcs are much to be regretted, but it had before been shown how little they regarded the lives and pro- perty of others. A tragical event occurred in the early part of the contest, that sufficiently proved this : Lieutenant Weir, having been sent to Sorel with a despatch to the officer in com- mand, did not reach that place, in consequence of the badness of the roads, until after the departure of Colonel Gore; taking a fresh caliche, he hastened after the troops, but arrived at St. Denis before them by a diffe-' H 3 1 J L "it m 78 BRITI>H DO.MINIONS ^1 I rent road ; there he was made prisoner, and being pinioned, was sent forward to St. Charles, but on the road was barbarously murdered. His body was found in the Kichelieu on the second advance of the troops to St. Denis, and interred at Mont- real with military honours, followed to the grave by nearly the whole of the population of the city. During the absence of the troops in the country of the Lake of the Two Mountains, a force had been assembled at La Chine. Colonel Maitland's battalion of volunteers immediately marched against them from Montreal, but they did not await their ap- proach ; and, for the time, order was restored to the province. The upper province had her share of trou- bles ; the " sympathies," so called, of per- turbed spirits in the United States, induced them to invade it, to draw off, probably, the attention of the loyal inhabitants, and pre- vent assistance being given to the lower province, to which the regular troops had already been sent. Taking advantage of this, a party hastened to attack Toronto before ■fi i IN NORTH AMERICA. 79 the mllltla could assemble, but found the Governor, Sir Francis Head, prepared to receive them; and Sir Allan Mac Nab, Speaker of the House of Assembly, having brought the men of Gore to his assistance by water, they quickly fled, and the loyal militia, flocking in from all quarters, restored the internal peace of the upper province* But another body soon assemble 1 at Navy Island, ab'"^ e the falls of Niagara, under the command of Rensellaer van Rensellaer, a self-styled general, and were joined by between three and four hundred men from the United States and Canada, the latter, however, being principally Americans who had located there. The militia succeeded in preventing their further progress, with- out any engagement; but a steam-boat, called the Caroline, having been seen plying between Navy Island and Schlosser, on the American shore, for which there could have been no object but to render assistance to the pirates (for such, in every sense of the term, they must be considered), was, during the night, cut out, burnt, and floated down the river by the Canadians— a beacon of f ij I 'ii I ill •m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) z 1.0 I.I 1.25 28 I!: 1^ 2.5 2.0 6" lA. 1116 v] <^ /i ^> "^ ■> '/ a Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ,\ '9> V ^ ^^^ \ .- ^^ :\ 6^ ^ C/a \ iV '^ 80 BRITISH DOMINIONS (!'. i I ■ t. i ' 5 ti -. - I # 1 \ \y. f assurance to them, and a warning to all who would tamper with the liberty or loyalty of Britons, — until she disappeared over the falls of Niagara. It is disputed whether the seizure was defensible, and some among the Americans yet call loudly for compensation; but, with- out entering upon the question of her cha- racter or cargo, the simple facts above stated sufficiently vindicate the colonists from the charges made against them. In the summer and autumn of 1838 an unusual run on the banks was the prelude to another insurrection; the lenient measures adopted with respect to the prisoners taken in the last, having prevented the salutary fear their seizure would otherwise have induced. This was marked principally by attacks on the houses of the loyal inhabitants, who were most cruelly treated, so that some ^ven died of their wounds. At this time a remarkable incident oc- curred, illustrative of the effect of the Chris- tian religion on the hearts and conduct of its converts. The Indians of Chawanaga t were assembled at morning service on Suur IN NORTH AMERICA. 81 day the 4th of November, when a party of insurgents having surrounded the church, the Indiana immediately sallied out, and the whole were made prisoners by them to the number of sixty-four, and marched unhurt into Montreal. The steamer, Henry Brougham, was taken possession of by the insurgents at Beauhar- nois, and all the passengers were secured by them, but were rescued soon after. Dr. Cote, with 400 men, made an attack, at LacoUe on the loyalists, but was signally defeated, as was Dr. Nelson, in his advance on Odell-town, where he attacked 200 volun- teers, commanded by Colonel Taylor. This small force taking refuge in the church, lefended it for two hours and a half against 1,000 of their assailants, who retreated,; with the loss of fifty killed and many wounded. These were the principal events of the ten days' insurrection of 1838. How much they were excited by enemies beyond the borders, may be judged by the continued descents made by them, in which they exercised most atrocious cruelties, setting fire to the houses IW^ n'f i 82 BRITISH DOMINIONS I $ :'"« |i''« I hji s ■•1 ■i: of the loyalists, destroying the produce of their farms, and exposing themselves, their wives and children, to the inclemencies of the nights of a Canadian winter. Doubt- less the government of the States did not assist them, and the better-disposed part of the community would have restrained them ; but such actions cannot be controlled, except by a powerful executive, and, where repub- lican ideas of liberty and equality are con- cerned, that of the United States is powerless. Several of the rebels taken in these con- tests were executed, with one exception con- fessing the justice of their fate, and lamenting that they had followed the bad advice of in- terested and designing men. The causes of these events are to be found, as has been suggested, in the disunion of the provinces, and consequent superiority given to the French element in the lower, as well as the incitements offered from the United States, if not from other countries; and, perhaps, they may be traced, in no small degree, to those very concessions by which, in all human probability, the Canadas were preserved to the British crown, during the r IN NORTH AMERICA. 83 first American war. So short-sighted and imperfect are human endeavours, unless dic- tated solely by justice and truth, and the consideration of the community of interests which exists among all men, and which can be maintained only by the exercise of Chris- tian charity and brotherly love. The result has been the union of the colo- nies under one government, an act which, by uniting the interests, political and com- mercial, of both, as well as opening the lower province to British interests, pro- mises to exercise a beneficial influence over the future destinies of Canada.* ♦ I or List of Governors, vide Appendix D. I :!' I I'/ M 84 BRITISH DOMINIONS P £ ti » ,■ 'I CHAPTER III. 4 I TOPOGRAPHY — CANADA EAST. That part of British North America for- merly comprising the province, and still commonly known by the name of Lower Canada, extending from the river Ottawa, by the northern boundary of the United States and province of New Brunswick to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, was originally divided into five districts for judicial purposes, having in them superior courts of civil and cri- minal jurisdiction, which are limited in the inferior to civil causes with power of appeal. The superior are Quebec, Three Rivers, and Montreal, ha\ing the seats of jurisdic- tion at the towns of the same name. The inferior are St. Francis and Gaspe, having their courts at Sherbrooke and New Carlisle. IN NORTH AMERICA. 85 These are again subdivided into counties, seignories, fiefs, and townships. The district of Quebec is separated from that of Gaspe, which contains only the counties of Gaspe and Bonaventure, by their boundaries, commencing at Cape Chat. It is divided from those of Three Rivers and St. Francis, by the boundary lines of the coun- ties of Sherbrooke, Drummond, and Nicolet on the south, and Portneuf on the north, where it is met by the territories of the Hudson's Bay Company, but extends to Point Sablon on the coast of Labrador. The district of St. Francis is included in that of the Three Rivers, and is in the form of a parallelogram, more than fifty miles in width from east to west, and above one hun- dred from north to south. The entire district of Three Rivers ex- tends from the Hudson's Bay Company's territories on the north, by the western boundaries of the counties Portneuf, Lot- biniere, and Megantic, the river Chaudiere, lake Megantic, and Arnold's river, to the southern boundary of the province, and is separated from that of Montreal by the I i i 86 BRITISH DOMINIONS n ,■■1 north-eastern boundaries of the counties of Stanstead, Shefford, St. Hyacinth, and Richelieu, on the south of the river St. Lawrence, and on the north by that of the county of St. Maurice ; while the district of Montreal extends from the forty-fifth parallel of latitude on the south, and is divided from Upper Canada by the Ottawa river : but it is evident that these divisions are of a purely arbitrary nature, and in no respect indicative of the character of the country. It has been already remarked that a range of hills runs from the great lakes to the northward of the river St. Lawrence. Commencing in the lower province at Gren^ ville, on the Ottawa, they run at a varying distance of from fifteen to forty miles from the river, until they strike its banks at Cape Torment, thirty miles below Quebec ; from hence the north shore of the river assumes a mountainous character. On the south side the highlands recede to a greater distance. Viewed from the north these have a dis- tinct outline, but on the south the table elevation of the country prevents it from appearing mountainous. Connected with t^vi IN NORTH AMERICA. 87 the Green Mountains in the state of Ver- mont, and by them with the AUeghanies, they take a semicircular north-western course round the head waters of the Chaudiere, and about the sources of the St. John's river, diverge into two spurs, one running nearly parallel to the shores of the St. Lawrence, through the centre of the country; the other taking a more northerly course, extends along the river to its mouth, at a distance of from thirteen to thirty miles, until it " sub- sides on its banks and confines its waters." It appears from this that the St. Lawrence from its union with the Ottawa flows through an extensive valley, wider on the south than the north side, but gradually narrowing until, below Quebec, it is confined to little more than the breadth of its water*^ The districts of Lower Canada, therefore, divide them- selves naturally into three parts, the fertile western valley, the table lands and high- land district by which it is surrounded, and the narrow slip of cultivated country in the south, prolonged into the district of Gaspe. If we turn from the course of the hills to those of the rivers, we shall « J ,/. 88 BRITISH DOMINIONS I' 1; ii ■ I r I I I'll 4 ;• II 2 i~ t. ri observe the Ottawa, and the tributaries of the St. Lawrence on the north, expanding themselves in radii from its mouth to Quebec, their principal waters flowing through the valley before spoken of. The Ottawa, as already specified, forms the old boundary of Lower Canada, but it must also be considered as the great highway into the interior towards the north and north- west, and a future line of communication with Hudson's Bay, as well as Lake Huron. Having its sources above one hundred miles to the north of Lake Temisceming, it issues from it at more than three hundred and fifty miles from its junction with that river, flowing through a country in every respect well adapted for cultivation, but as yet for the most part in a state of nature, and little known to any but fur traders and timber contrac- tors; a trading port for the former is estab- lished on the shores of the lake. At the AUumettes the river expands and is divided into two channels by islands, below which it forms the Lake des AUumettes ; here the land begins to be cultivated, and affords every proof of fertility. Lower down IN NORTH AMERICA. 89 the river Is ap-ain divided by the large island of Calumet, in length twenty and in breadth Beven miles. The stream is broken by a ridge of rugged mountains into rapids and cascades, and although they vary only from six to ten feet, the scenery is of an extremely wild and romantic character. Below this it is sin- gularly diversified by numerous islands clothed with luxuriant foliage, whose fertile beauties contrast picturesquely with the banks of white marble confining the river, which soon expands again into the Lake des Chats. The Ottawa is esteemed for the softness of its waters ; its calms are particularly glassy and beautiful. The shores of this lake in some parts form deep indentations, and its surface is studded with islands, while both being well wooded, the whole presents a scene of soft and sweet beauty, peculiar indeed to the country, but of which this is a specimen that can hardly be surpassed. In this so congenial a locality, where the more beautiful and fer- tile features of their own land present them- selves without the harsher and more desolate, a Scottish chieftain has taken up his abode among emigrants of his own clan. i3 'if 90 BRITISH DOMINIONS ,1 : I i If SI a If i| I m ar i: ?1, Here the waters of the Madawaska join those of the Ottawa, and below the lake from the rapids dcs Chats, their united waters dart rapidly along amidst a labyrinth of islands, until they precipitate themselves over rocks about twenty feet in height, forming the falls of the same name : here are seen fifteen or sixteen cascades stretching in a curved line across the river divided by wooded islets. Six miles lower down, Lake Chaudiere, exceeding Lake des Chats in magnitude, but less diversified in its scenery, opens to the view. It is eighteen miles long by seventy-five broad. Here the shores to the north of the river begin to increase in elevation, while to the south they are still higher, and from the foot of the lake the river is again obstructed by rapids to the Chaudiere falls at Wright's Village, in the township of Hull, where its waters are divided, and rushing headlong over the rugged limestone rock, form cascades of unusual beauty. Above, the river is five hundred yards wide and studded with ver- dant islets; below, the chord of one of the principal falls is two hundred and twelve feet, its height sixty. f IN NORTH AMERICA. 91 The usual peculiarities of limestone, per- pendicular fissures, caverns and subterrauean channels, are not wanting here, and the whole presents a scene worthy the admi- ration both of the lover of the picturesque and the man of science, and which is diver- sified and heightened by the chain of the Union bridges. The truss bridge over the broadest channel was constructed from a temporary suspension bridge of rope, and a handsome one of iron now supersedes it. Bouchette commemorates the courage of Lady Dalhousie as the first female who ven- tured over it. Below the falls the river is navigable for steam-boats for sixty miles to Grenville,. where there is a military establishment, a population of above two thousand, and a con- siderable breadth of land in cultivation. Here, as has been remarked, the chain of hills enters Lower Canada, which bounding the valley of the St. Lawrence, forms its northern bank below Quebec ; and here, granite crops out from below the limestone. Black-lead is found in the district. Below Grenville is the long Sault, an im- r (. i If I'll If t 1 , M ~i »i5 92 BRITISH DOMINIONS petuous rapid, around which a canal has been cut, and from thence to Point Fortune the river is much broken ; but then expanding, it forms the Lake of the Two Mountains, and flows into the St. Lawrence below the cas- cades. It is, however, remarkable that their waters do not unite until they reach the Three Rivers, ninety miles below Montreal, the black waters of the Ottawa being dis- tinguishable from the bluish green of the St. Lawrence. The valley of the Ottawa presents a decided superiority to the country along the St. Lawrence below Montreal, its fron- tage being considerably south of Quebec, and its average latitude 45° 30' N. It is Watered by several fine rivers, tributaries to the main stream, generally navigable, at least for canoes, and having their rise at great distances from it, frequently in lakes, afford- ing advantageous internal water communi- cation; its surface is undulating and covered with a heavy growth of wood, generally in- dicating a rich and fertile soil: it may be esteemed the best district of Lower Canada, fiorth of the St. Lawrence. IN NORTH AMERICA. 93 Below the junction of the Ottawa, the St. Lawrence is divided into three principal channels by two islands, at the north Isle Jesus, at the south the island of Montreal, on which stands the capital of the province. The north shore from the Ottawa to the Three Rivers at the mouth of the St. Maurice consists, as has been remarked, of a narrow slip of about fifteen to twenty miles in breadth at the base of the table and high lands: it is watered by several rivers, along the banks of which settlements have very generally been made, but it labours under the disadvantages of a light sandy soil and want of internal communication. The table land to the north presents an example of the facilities of water communica- tion to be found only in these countries; a glance at the map will show a chain of lakes, in some places forty fathoms deep, at the head waters of the St. Maurice and Aux Lievres rivers, by which an immediate com- munication might be opened between Hull, at the head of the steam-boat navigation of the Ottawa and Three Rivers, and inclosing a tract of 11,500 geographical miles. Ou 94 BRITISH DOMINIONS i I I ■ , S ; ' i I IN ;li • ^i ru D account of the quality of the land, it is not however probable that this is of much impor- tance in an agricultural point of view. Isle Jesus, and the islet Bizard, with the lands adjacent to them, are, though scarcely- above the level of the river, covered with fertile soil, and generally under good cultiva- tion ; the former is a seignory belonging to the bishop and ecclesiastics of the seminary of Quebec ; it is twenty-one miles in length, and six at its greatest breadth. Isle Perrot, to the south-west of Montreal, is rocky, with light sandy soil, and but partially cultivated ; the principal value of this and the other islands results from their position as the centre of the water as well as land communi- cation of the province. The island of Montreal is of a triangular shape, thirty-two miles long by ten and a half broad, and forms a county of itself: it is separated by the river Des Prairies from Isle Jesus ; it was wholly the property of the seminary of St. Sulpice, in the city of Mont- real. Its surface is generally level, but there is one remarkable isolated elevation called " the Mountain," besides one or two smaller ridges. II IN NORTH AMERICA. 95 Taken as a whole, its fertility can scarcely be exceeded, and it is watered by several streams and rivulets of sufficient power to turn saw and grist mills. The shores, from the city of Montreal to the eastward, are from fifteen to twenty feet above the level of the river, but in the oppo- site direction, towards La Chine, they are low, and here a canal has been cut to afford a direct communication with the city, and avoid the difficult rapids of St. Louis. The city of Montreal stands on the south side of the island, in latitude 45" 31' N. and longitude 73° 34' W. ; its form is a prolonged square, covering about 1,020 acres of ground; its situation fits it to be, in every respect, the first city of the province. It is divided into the upper and lower town, the streets are generally wide, the houses are built of greyish stone covered with sheet iron or tin;* it possesses some com- paratively fine buildings, among which the Boman Catholic cathedral, St. Mary's epi- * From the dryness of the atmosphere the tin retains its freshness for a long time, and glitters brilliantly in the sunbeams. f '■M iVf 96 BRITISH DOMINIONS I t-; (U IB- -' scopal church, the Customs and Court-houses, St. Anne's market, and the seminary of St. Sulpice, are, perhaps, most worthy of mention. The cathedral stands in the Place d' Armes, an open space of considerable size ; it is, probably, the largest church in British North America ; it is a gothic structure, but entirely destitute of ornament ; it consists of a nave and side aisles, 255 feet in length, and 134 in breadth. It was intended to have six^ towers, those at the west end were to be 220 feet in height ; between them there is a triple arcaded porch, and battlemented screen above, pierced with windows to correspond to the arches. Montreal has several schools, besides the Roman Catholic places of education ; among which is a National School, founded in 1816, with an average attendance of above 200, and Sunday-schools of all the numerous denomina- tions whose places of worship are to be found in the city ; water and gas works, a hos- pital, mechanics' institute, and many religious and benevolent institutions. In the market- place has been erected a monument to the IN NORTH AMERICA. 97 '1111 ses, ' of of d' memory of Lord Nelson ; it is a Doric column, with a statue of the hero on the top, and his- torical bas-reliefs on the pedestal. The shore of the St. Lawrence has, since 1832, when Montreal was made a port of entry, been furnished with a line of wharfs stretching toward the Lachine canal, and affording every facility for commercial pur- poses. The population of Montreal was stated in the census of 1831, as 31,783 ; in 1840 it was computed at above 35,000. Since it has become the seat of the government and legislature its population has probably ex- ceeded 60,000. The St. Maurice river, already mentioned, is the next river of importance to the Ottawa; it drains an extent of country from twenty to one hundred miles in breadth, in a course of about one hundred and fifty miles in a direct line, or of about 8,400 square miles. It rises in Lake Oskelanaio ; the upper part of its course is much broken by falls and rapids, but it is practicable for boats thirty- eight leagues, to La Tuque, although with seven portages. iM 98 BRITISH DOMINIONS ^^fli I ill 1 1 f -.>! Its banks are generally high, and covered with majestic trees. The land near the mouth is light and sandy ; at the falls of La Gabelle limestone predominates, but at those of La Grais, six leagues from Three Rivers, and for some distance beyond, it presents a favourable appearance, to the portage Aux Hetres, one league above; from whence it assumes a more sterile character, becomes rug- ged and broken, until, opposite the river Batis- can, the precipitous banks rise for more than two hundred, and, further still, three hundred feet in height. In this district are the stu- pendous falls of the Shewenagan, where the river, divided into two channels, rushes over a perpendicular rock one hundred and fifty feet high, and at the base forces its united waters through a channel of only thirty feet in breadth. The town of Three Rivers is situated in the seigniory of St. Marguerite, at the mouth of the river St. Maurice. The third in im- portance in Lower Canada, in point of antiquity it is the second, having been built before Montreal, as an emporium for the fur trade, in which the latter city. IN NORTH AMERICA. 99 very shortly after its foundation, very far outstripped it. It derives its name from the division of the river into three channels, by two islands which lie in its mouth. It does not contain above 4,000 souls, but is well situated for trade, having depth of water for ships of large tonnage, close to the wharfs. It is a depot for British goods especially. Its principal buildings are the Ursuline con- vent, containing a parochial church and hos- pital, the Protestant and Roman Catholic churches, court-house, and gaol. There is also a ruined monastery of RecoUets. Below the St. Maurice, the only impor- tant river on the north bank, is the Sague- nay. Between them Quebec occupies an intermediate position. The tract of country they inclose, in length 190 miles, contains about 70,000 souls, occupying an average depth of land of about three leagues from the mouth of the river. The country to the westward of Quebec is by far the most populous. It is watered by the powerful tributary streams of the Jacques Cartier, Portneuf, St. Anne's, and * f'. 1 ''■ i I , I I 1 Ha 100 BRITISH DOMINIONS Batiscan ; but they are of little use except to turn saw and grist mills, and to bring down lumber, their mouths affording sufficient shelter for the shipping employed in that trade. The soil of this district is generally rich, and not confined to the banks of the rivers. The scenery is picturesque in the extreme ; the fertile vallies and streams, which flow through them, being backed to the westward by a bold mountain range, whose purple peaks glow beneath the beams of the setting sun. It is also sufficiently provided with roads. Quebec was the capital not only of Lower Canada, but of the whole British dominions in North America. There is, perhaps, no city in the world, whose appearance is more striking, and next to Gibraltar, it is pro- bably, by the united efforts of nature and art, the strongest fortress in the world. It is built on a promontory on the north- west side of the St. Lawrence, formed by the river St. Charles, the extremity of which is called Cape Diamond, and rises 345 feet above the level of the river. It is composed of grey granite, containing numerous crystals IN NORTH AMERICA. 101 of quartz, from whence It has been supposed its name is derived. The front of the line of fortifications is 1837 yards; their circuit within this, about two miles and three quar- ters : forty acres of which is allotted to mili- tary works. From the summit of the cape there Is an easy and gradual descent of 115 feet to the castle of St. Louis and the Grand Battery, which crowns the perpendicular rock of 200 feet, overlooking the lower town. This height is continued nearly round the town, which lies embosomed as in an amphitheatre, as far as the entrance called Palace-gate, where it sinks to the Coteau St. Genevieve, 100 feet above the river, and continues its course at nearly the same elevation, forming the boundary of the valley of the St. Charles, that river forming, for some distance, but a very small angle with the St. Lawrence and the valley under Cape Rouge, with which this line is connected, and which is seen rising above the general level like an island in the water. The population of the upper and lower towns, besides the suburbs, may be computed K 3 m Il '■{ i"! i I ' !:( ? I ''ill! II f ' ! 102 BRITISH DOMINIONS. at 35,000. Its principal public edifices are the castle of St. Louis, Hotel Dieu, convent of the Ursulines, two cathedrals, Church of England and Koman Catholic, besides suffi- cient military and civil edifices. The castle of St. Louis, forming the governor's residence, and seated on the edge of the precipice, is, from situation and structure, a most striking object ; it is 162 feet long, by forty-five broad, and three stories high, though it appears more lofty. There are wings at each extremity, and it forms part of the old fortress of St. Louis, which covered four acres of ground in the form of a parallelogram, with curtain and bastions. Here are two large gardens, and a public promenade between them, in one of which was erected, by Lord Dalhousie, the monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, already mentioned. It consists of a solid rectangu- lar column of grey stone, gradually tapering from the base to the apex, of sixty-five feet in height: the inscription commemorates their union in their death and fame, as well as in their monument. The Protestant cathedral is a handsome building, with a lofty and elegant spire, and IN NORTH AMERICA. 103 has a very conspicuous and striking appear- ance from a considerable distance. The Roman Catholic cathedral is a larger building, remarkable for solidity of appear- ance. It has only one spire at the angle of the front, the corresponding one never having been built, which weakens the effect of the original design. Near it is the semi- nary, now the residence of the bishop and principal clergy. The Bishop's Palace, formerly the resi- dence of the Roman Catholic bishop, was afterwards occupied by the Legislative Coun- cil, and an annuity was granted to him in lieu of it. The collection of arms and military stores is very considerable, Quebec forming the arsenal to the British provinces on the main land; a railway, on an inclined plane, has been constructed, 500 feet in length, on the face of a rugged cliff, 345 feet in perpendicu- lar height from the wharfs below,' for their conveyance to the citadel, where arms for 20,000 men are kept in a state of complete fitness for immediate use. ^ Here also is a literary and historical I * " It Pt: il 104 BRITISU DOMINIONS li if I m i MiF"' society, formed under the auspices of Lord Dalliousie, in 1824. It has a library, museum, and collection of paintings, all worthy of notice, with rooms for reading, lectures, and meetings of the members. The situation of the upper town, or city, occasions the streets to be steep, irregular, and often narrow, but art has of late suffici- ently remedied its natural inconveniences. Besides the buildings already mentioned it has a market place, 250 by 165 feet, a Place d'Arms, forming an agreeable prome- nade, and an esplanade, where the troops and militia are reviewed, of 273 yards long, by a breadth of from 80 to 120. The lower town, standing at the foot of the rock, has been for the most part built upon wharfs, which, stretching into the river, have been added to as the increase of com- merce required, so that streets and houses now occupy the place where not only boats, but ships of burden, used formerly to ride at anchor. Here are extensive stores and docks, from whence vessels of large tonnage are constantly launched.^ ; The principal buildings are the Bank, IN NORTH AMERICA. 105 containing the Insurance Office and Quebec Library, the best collection in the provinces, the Exchange, and Custom-house. The two extremities of the lower town, Brehauts wh.'rf, near Presdeville, and Sault au Matelot, were the scenes of the repulses of the American generals Montgomery and Arnold, in which the former was killed. The suburbs of St. John's and St. Roch extend, the one on the irregular ground of the Coteau St. Genevieve, and the other from thence to the river St. Charles, on the bank of which river the general hospital stands. It was founded in 1693, by M. St. Vallier, bishop of Quebec, and governed by a supe- rior and forty-four nuns. The front, which is regular, is 228 feet in length. The whole building forms nearly a square. Quebec is the centre of the steam navi- gation of the British North American do- minions ; steam-boats running from thence to Montreal in about thirty-five hours, as well as to Halifax, from which place there is a constant communication with New Bruns- wick, by Digby and Annapolis, as well as with England, Boston, and New York. 106 BRITISH DOMINIONS t- y \> < I :h :'-•■■<■ There is a regular ferry between the city and Point Levi on the opposite side, and a bridge over the St. Charles. When the ice is making in the river, the passage is exceedingly difficult, and would be as dan- gerous, but for the courage, self-possession, and experience of the boatmen. In winter the river is sometimes frozen across, and as soon as the surface is sufficiently solid, a road is laid out under the inspection of the Grand Voyer of the district. This has not, however, happened so frequently of late; but the North Channel, between the island of Orleans and the main, forms the road by which the Quebec market is supplied from that fruitful spot, where, on that account, the produce is reserved until this period of the year. The scenery about Quebec is not only majestic, but picturesque in the extreme, and cannot fail to make a strong impression on the memory of all who pass it on their way to the upper districts. The island of Orleans, or St. Lawrent, situated immediately below the deep inden- tation formed between Quebec and Beau- IN NORTH AMERICA, 107 port, by the river of the same name and the St. Charles, is nineteen miles long by five and a half broad. Its western extremity is only four miles from Cape Diamond. It is the most fertile spot in the district of Quebec, and is covered with fruitful fields, orchards, and gardens. But this island, fruitful as it is, does not equal in fertility that of Montreal. Here was launched that absurd attempt at naval architecture on an extended scale, the ship Columbus, afterwards lost on the coast of Wales. She was 3,700 tons register, about 300 feet in length, fifty in breadth, and thirty in depth. The line of hills which commences at Grenville on the Ottawa, strikes, as has been remarked, the St. Lawrence at Cape Torment, which, rising 1890 feet above the river, forms a most remarkable and magnificent headland. It is the first and highest of a succession of granitic mountains, called, *^ Les Caps," that rise abruptly from the river, and continue the mountain range un- broken, but by the course of rivers, to within fifteen or twenty miles of the river Saguenay, where the land assumes m I i ill I Hi i: hM I 1/" ')h ; , f ■!f't 108 BRITISH DOMINIONS a degree of flatness and regularity of surface, contrasting singularly with the mountainous character that is developed on the southern shore. The rivers in this district are not of large size, the most remarkable being the Montmorenci, celebrated for its great rapi- dity and magnificent fall of 240 feet in one unbroken sheet, over cliffs rising vertically many feet above it, and forming a deep bay at its base, their heads and upper part of their sides, clothed in summer with verdant foliage, contrasting beautifully with its snowy whiteness. In the winter the scene is very singular; the frozen bed of the river becomes a platform, on which the water descends in sheets, making a conical mound of congealed particles, on the inner side assuming a sta- lactitic character, slightly tinged with the exceedingly minute particles of earthy matter conveyed into the atmosphere with the spray ■)€• * From their proximity to Quebec, the falls of Mont- morency are much frequented, and are the scene of con- stant festivities; both winter and summer parties are made to them, and in the latter season perhaps not less IN NORTH AMERICA. 109 At the foot of the falls is an extensive tuTiber establishment. Vessels of from 150 to 200 tons are launched from the mouth of the rivers St. Charles, Gouffre, Mai Bay, and Petite Ri- viere, whose estuaries, nearly dry at low water, form convenient strands. The settlements of Charlesbourg, Beau- port, and Cote Beaupre in this district, are fertile and flourishing. The last river of importance on this coast is the Saguenay, already named as one of the most singular, perhaps, in the world. Its head waters flo «ving into Lake St. John, are in close communication with those of the St. Maurice, as they are also with the Ottawa, and complete a chain of inland navi- gation of great extent and peculiarity, and the development of the resources of the country in which it is situated must be of tlie highest importance to the province. Situated at the north of the range of hills !^ m \i I! t joyous after the excitement produced by the rapidity with Avhich the sleigh glances over the frozen snow. Few have sojourned at Quebec who do not associate these falls with some of their happiest hours. 110 BRITISH DOMINIONS ■M ifA M ^^- i ..< I before mentioned, which approach within less than ten leagues of Quebec, and having extensive tracts of cultivatable land among hills of limestone, and well-wooded, although despoiled of its native inhabitants, birds and quadrupeds, by the rapacity and improvidence of the fur-traders, its settlement cannot but be effected at no very distant period. The river itself, issuing from Lake St. John by two " decharges," unites at Chichoutimi, below which place it is navigable for the largest vessels, to the St. Lawrence, Jiaving a depth of above 200 fathoms. The Bay of Ha Ha, a short distance below that place, and sixty miles from the river's mouth, seems marked out by nature for the princi- pal seat of trade and commerce of the dis- trict. It is surrounded by arable lands of vast extent, and its double harbour is capable of holding in security a large fleet of ships of the line. Here the Sienite cliffs rise preci- pitously 500 feet above the river. An expedition was fitted out to explore the Saguenay in 1543, under the command of M. de Roberval; in 1599, the Sieur de Chauvin made a futile attempt to form a IN NORTH AMERICA. Ill thin ving long )Ugh and ence : but The 1 by timi, for ence. The that outh, rinci- dis- ds of pable ips of preci- ^plore mand ur de )rni a settlement there, but died at Tadousacat the mouth of the river, which seems since then to have been considered only of consequence with reference to the fur-trade, but late surveys have proved the entrance of this river and the Port of Tadousac to be much better than they have hitherto been esteemed. The country from the Saguenay to Labra- dor is but little known, except to fishers and fur-traders; its promise for the future is principally in its mineral wealth, which is by no means problematical. Having thus surveyed the northern shores of the St. Lawrence, and the interior of the country, the districts to the south next claim our attention. The country from the Ottawa to Quebec, on the north side of the river, is opposed by that highly valuable tract between the south- ern boundary of the province, and the Kiver Chaudiere; it includes seventeen counties, and in superficial extent may be said to con- tain about 13,864 square miles; its popula- tion may be stated as about 200,000. It has been already remarked that a i! I i ' "1 ■I , i t 112 BRITISH DOMINIONS f li hi\ branch of the Green Mountain range in the state of Vermont, runs to the northward of Lakes Champlain and Memphremagog, where this district assumes a highland character^ which is continued to the banks of the Chaudiere : but to the north-west the coun- try has a level aspect, varied by occasional bold eminences, the principal of which are Rouville or Beloeil, Yamaska, Boucherville, Chambly, Kougemount, and Mount John- ston. This fertile tract is profusely watered by the Rivers Nicolet, St. Francis, Ya- maska, Richelieu, Chateauguay, Salmon, and their tributary streams. All these have their rise within the highlands of the pro- vince, except the Richelieu, which on this, as on every account, deserves particular mention. Having its source in the United States, it collects its waters from a surface of 4,800 square miles, concentrating them at Lake Champlain, and flows through the province seventy miles to Fort William Hi r;ry, or Sore], in the countv of the same name ; its influence in the British territory extends over 1,050 miles. From its junction with IN NORTH AMERICA. 113 the St. Lawrence, decked vessels of 150 tons can ascend from twelve to fourteen miles ; its width is about 250 yards as far as the basin of Chambly, to which point generally small steamers may ascend ; from thence its width is 500 yards to St. John's, and from that place it gradually widens the whole way to Lake Champlain, affording a ship navigation to the towns on that Lake, and offerino; to notice the peculiar feature of a greater width in its upper than in its lower waters. From the Lake the stream is hurried and broken ; from the basin to the St. Lawrence, regular and gentle : by it immense quanti- ties of timber, and upon the rafts formed by it many hundred tons of pot and pearl ashes, as well as large quantities of flour, exclusive of what is conveyed in boats, are brought down to the St. Lawrence. The rich and verdant plain through which this river flows, from the exuberance of its crops, justifies its appellation of the Granary of Lower Canada, affording not only suffi- cient for a large population, but being the principal source from whence grain is ex- ported to the British market. Its soil is 1 » '; l^i:, 11 H l3 h'M m m 1,1 i 'Hi 114 BRITISH DOMINIONS chiefly clay, combined with marl, and black vegetable earth. The most delightful part of this highly-favoured tract is about the Basin of Chambly, where the fertility of the soil is increased by the mildness of the climate, which is sensibly warmer than even that of the country lying between it and the St. Lawrence : through it is a great thoroughfare to the United States. The villasce of La Prairie is a central station for steam-boat navigation, both v ith the western districts and the States; it is eight miles from Montreal, and has a popula- tion of about 2,000. From it, through Chambly, runs the high road to the American States; it is close to the fort of the same name, which stands at the edge of Chambly Basin, a sheet of water, though only about a mile and a half in diameter, singularly ornamental in its features. The islets of St. Jean, covered with dark-hued foliage, in the descent of the rapids of Cham- bly, have a very picturesque effect. The fortress was, during the late American war, considered a point d'appui of such im- portance, that a force of 6,000 men was as- igh IN NORTH AMERICA. 115 scmbled beneath It. At that time the stores and buildings necessary to make It a military depot were erected. Here Is als a flourish- ing college, established by M. MIgnault, the Cure. The other rivers are generally navigable for bateaux, the Chateauguay and NIcolet for some distance. The latter derives some importance from Its situation opposite the. town of Three Rivers, on the north bank of the St. Lawrence. Next in Importance Is the St. Francis, a riverof very peculiar character, which derives its waters on the south, from lakes Memphre- m«igog and MassawhIppI among the Con- necticut hills, and on the north from those of St. Francis and Meudon, which are fed by streams rising in the hills, from whence flow the tributary waters of the Chaudiere, and the rivers Becancour, Blanche, and Ni- colet ; its entire course cannot be less than 100 miles, with an area of 1,500. Its northern and southern sources unite near Sherbrooke, and from thence to its mouth is seventy miles. The navigation is difiicult and laborious, but offering a direct t! i I!: !. II ■ r! ■\-i^ :.'l! IP |:'' -■ If t:l 6. i ri [if: 116 BRITISH DOMINIONS t,.i m \>] iii road from the United States, is much in use, more than 1,500 barrels of ashes have been brought down in one summer. Its course is much broken by rapids, and presents ex- tremely picturesque effects. One feature of it recalls to mind the Dalles of the Colum- bia, and Canons of the Missouri and its tri- butaries.* It is situated about a mile from the confluence of the waters, issuing from lake Memphremagog. It is termed a fall ; and, indeed, the water descends withm that distance 180 feet, (not indeed from perpendi- cular height, but the contraction of the bed of the river between high walls of rock) with so much violence, that single s\:cks of timber, if permitted to pass down this channel, are often shivered to pieces. The Becancour is a stream of a highly picturesque character. The great falls may vie with those of the Chaudiere. These are situated in front of Blandford ; the main fall being twenty-four feet high, and the cascades above about thirty-six, and the i: * Names applied in those localities to deep and narrow chasms in the rocks through which the waters are forcibly compressed. IN NORTU AMMRlv 117 li course of the whole river in oken >y ut- merous falls and rapids, of a wild and j - jnantic character. The Yamaska winds through a fertile country for upwards of ninety miles; it waters about 700 square miles ; its average width is 400 feet. The Chaudiere is equal, if not superior in extent to the St. Francis, and its waters must be collected from a surface of not less than 3,000 square miles. In breadth it varies from 400 to 600 yards, and is frequently divided by islands ; some of them of many acres, and covered with timber trees. The banks are in general higli, rocky, steep, and clothed with wood, and which jutting out into the stream and contracting its channel, occasion a rapid and broken course, highly favourable to the picturesque character, but destructive of the utility of its waters ; it, however, forms one road into the States. It is, perhaps, the most varied in scenery of any of the southern tributaries of the St. Law- rence. It has many falls ; the Chaudiere falls, about four miles from its mouth, are most celebrated. The river is here narrowed to < I 1 r 118 BRITISH DOMINIONS I. I II ! hi about 130 yards, creating a great rush of waters, and is divided into three portions by masses of rock, forming partial cataracts, which uniting in their descent, fall together into the basin beneath. Although so near Quebec, the country around it maintains its pristine character; and the glancing water, the snowy foam, and the deep shadows of the woods, combine to enhance the brilliancy of the prismatic colours which play above it* The banks of the St. Lawrence from the heights of point Levi, opposite Quebec, gra- dually subside into the flats of Baie du Febvre and lake St. Peter eastward. Between the high lands which separate the tributary waters of the Chaudiere from those of the St. John, a narrow tract extends along the bank of the river. From the high grounds opposite Que- bec, which gradually descend to the mouth of the river du Sud, 35 miles lower down through the more elevated country flows the river Etchemi, whose head waters approach closely to the St. John, and being more na- vigable than the Chaudiere, ofters an imme- diate communication with New Brunswick. if. IN NOllTII AMERICA. 119 A consklerablc portion of its course is through fine iiUuvial soil as yet uncultivated. The river du Sud, rising in the highlands before mentioned, is in its early course rapid and impetuous; but near its mouth meanders through a valley, yielding only to that of the Richelieu in fertility : it forms at its mouth a basin, and is crossed by two bridges. Here first commence those isolated cliffs that form such conspicuous features in the landscape. Composed of granite, they rise in abrupt slopes, presenting rugged faces thinly clad with dwarf trees. This populous and fertile valley boasts of the chief watering place in Lower Canada, Kamouraska, 90 miles below Quebec. It is remarkable for the salubrity of its air, and perfect salt of its waters, the St. Lawrence being here six leagues in length. Below this the nearer approach of the highlands nar- rows the breadth of land between them and the river. Here, crossing the rivers du Loup and Verte, is the Temiscouata portage of 12 leagues in length, uniting the St. Lawrence with Lake Temiscouata, by which is the high road to Fredericton, St. John's, New II 120 BRITISH DOMINIONS ■If *ii ' lU Brunswick, and through them to Halifax : by it the mail is carried. On the river du Loup below the portage is a very extensive timber establishment. From hence the coun- try is steep and rugged over the highlands of Bic to the Kimouski, where there are exten- sive settlements, fisheries, and salt works. Below this the coast is of more moderate elevation until it rises abruptly at Grand Mitis, twenty-four miles from Rimouski. About the Grand and Little Mitis, distant only six miles, the soil though light is fertile. The bay, from its depth and breadth, posi- tion and soundings, is esteemed favourable for the temporary resort of vessels for pilots, &c. ; and here also are extensive fisheries of cod, halibut, salmon, and herring. Seals abound in great numbers, and are seen bask- ing on the rocks in all directions. The river Mitis is closely connected with a tributary of the St. John's, and the Metape- diac, a feeder of the Eestigouche, approaches closely to its neighbour, the Tirtigo. Here, therefore, is the connexion between the St. Lawrence and Bay des Chaleurs by the Kestigouche. IN NOHTII AMERICA. 121 X : (lu ive in- 3 of en- rks. cate and • itant ftile. posi- ^able ilots, es of eals ask- itha [tape- laches ^ere, le St. the The country between the MItIs and Malane still continues a wilderness, but offers many advantages to the settler : it is watered by the rivers Tirtigo, Blanche, and other inferior streams. At Matane there is a small settle- ment, and twenty-seven miles below, at Cape Chat, is a depot for tlie relief of shipwrecked seamen. Nine miles further on is St. Anne's, the last settlement on this coast. These are in the district of Gaspe, a peninsular tract lying between the St. Lawrence and Bay of Chaleurs. From recent surveys it appears that this consists of an elevated valley, supported by lines of hills from the St. Lawrence and Restigouche, and containing numerous lakes and rivers, their tributaries, discharging themselves into the sea on the east of Gaspe Bay. The surface of the coun- try is uneven, in some parts mountainous, covered with a fine growth of timber, and well adapted for agriculture : but little is known of the interior, the settlements being confined to the coast. It abounds with lime and coal. Its fisheries, prin- cipally of cod, are most extensive, as are also those of herring and salmon : the whale M in I ri .1;. 4 t m ■ : I' i( 122 BRITISH DOMINIONS i . .1 . }:• i » ! i '' »it : 1 r P ■ f < i' 1 Pi ' V : ■ ; m 1 i I 5 '^-l n fishery Is also productive. Its timber trade, though In Its Infancy, and susceptible of great augmentation. Is very flourishing. Gaspe Bay is one of the best harbours on the coast, and capable of containing 300 or 400 sail at a time : It Is easy of access, secure, and has good anchorage. :'« IN NORTH AMERICA. 123 CHAPTER IV. TOPOGRAPHY — CANADA WEST. Upper Canada, separated from the lower province in 1791, but now again joined to it, is divided from the United States by the river St. Lawrence, the Great Lakes, and their connecting waters. On the west it is bounded by the Indian or Hudson's Bay ter- ritory, while its eastern limit is the river Ottawa to lake Temiscaming, and thence by a line along the southern extremity of the Hudson's Bay Company's territories, generally understood to indicate a range of highlands dividing the rivers and streams falling into Hudson's Bay from those which have their outlet in the lakes and river St. Lawrence. Within these limits its superficies may be estimated at 141,000 square miles. Of this about one-third is laid out in townships, be- sides the Crown lands, and above 1,500,000 acres on Lake Huron, formerly known as ^ 1?: \ I 124 BRITISH DOMINIONS I ■f § 1 i 1 i ■^■m^ W .-ill! i '■ t ■ the Indian country. In 1788 it was divided into four districts by Lord Dorchester : Lu- nenburg, Mecklenburg, Nassau, and Hesse ; but these denominations were changed in 1792, into those of the Eastern, Midland, Home, and Western, and afterwards the number of districts was increased to eleven, containing twenty-six counties, and six ridings : these are extended in number in proportion to the increase of population. The districts are named respectively, Eastern^ Ottawa, Bcthurst, and Johnstone, lying between the Ottawa and St. Lawrence; Midland, Newcastle, Havre, and Gore, on the shores of Lake Ontario ; the Home dis- trict, stretching across to Georgian Bay, Niagara on the river of that name, London stretching from Lake Erie to Lake Huron, and in which lie the lands of the Canada Company ; and Western, in the angle formed by those lakes, and abutting on the river Detroit, or more properly the Detroit and the lake and river St. Clair. Of the country thus laid out there is an aggregate of 16,816,800 acres. Of these 7,000,000 are ^-ranted in free and common. IN NORTH AMERICA. 125 soccage, and 4,805,400 reserved for crown and clergy lands, part of which have been granted to the Canada Company, and the rest remain available for sale or grant. This extent of surface, stretching above 550 miles west, and from fifty to eighty miles north, and lying between parallels 41 1 and 45^ north latitude, has a soil and climate which, for productiveness and fertility, may challenge competition with any part of North America. The allotted part of Upper Canada Avill appear, on reference to the map, of a triangu- lar shape, having its base on the Ottawa, and its sides to lakes Erie, Ontario, and Huron. Carrying out the principle that a country is bost described by its natural features, and that these resolve themselves for the most part into two, viz. hill and water, we find, commencing at the Ottawa, a range of hills separating the tributary waters of that river from those of the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, between which it pursues a westerly course. This, however, should perhaps be rather considered as an elevated table-land, and has M 3 if' f 126 BRITISH DOMINIONS m ii ii i if :.! h; t. Ii (If ■ li this singular character, that with a base on one side of eighty and on the other of fifty miles, it has the same ratio of descent towards both, viz. four feet one inch to a mile ; which is accounted for by the fact ascertained by actual survey, — that the waters of Lake Ontario are about 130 feet above the level of those of the Ottawa, the effect of which will be seen when considered with reference to the lakes as a system. Dividing the head waters of the liideau from those of the Napannee, and those of the Mississippi from the Moira, and thence pur- suing a westerly course along the heads of numerous streams, tributaries of the Trent river, and a chain of small lakes, stretching towards Lake Simcoe, it passes eighteen miles north of Balsam Lake, the most westerly of these, from whence the water communication, in a north-westerly direc- tion, nearly reaches the Madawaska river, from the head waters of which it is divided by another range, raised above that already spoken of, which first taking an eastr erly direction divides the waters falling into the Ottawa from the feeders of Lake Huron^ f IN NORTH AMERICA. 127 and then, bending north-west, separates the waters of that hike from those of James' and Hudson's Bay, and joins the grand ridge of higMands between the latter and the great lakes. From the Bay of Quinte another range runs along the north shore of Lake Ontario, in some places not more than nine miles dis- tant, dividing the streams flowing into that lake from those which empty themselves into Rice Lake and Trent River, — Pigeon Lake and Otanabee River. Receding northward, it separates those falling into lakes Simcoe and Huron from those of Ontario, and bending round the Toronto and its tributa- ries, which it separates from those of the Grand or Ouse River, pursues a south-east- erly direction, till it is merged in Burlington Heights, at Burlington Bay, whence it runs along the south side of Lake Ontario, be- tween four and eight miles from its shores, and continuing its easterly direction, passes along the southern shore of the lake, at a distance of about twelve miles, subsiding at Rochester on the Gennessee. This ridge, thoucrh the source of the mailer streams i I n M ■r i i I 128 BRITISH DOMINIONS *^^' 1 1 ( - 1 i; 1 i 1 ,■%' 1 fl ft ,• .1.,' f- ' falling into Lake Ontario, does not affect tlie larger, but is, nevertheless, a well-defined and striking feature, pointing out the original boundary of the lake. From this it will appear, that the country- lying between the two chains thus described, and comprising the Newcastle, Midland and part of the Home districts, consists of an elevated table land, containing several lakes of considerable importance, discharging them- selves respectively into the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, and by the Trent into the Bay of Quint e, in Lake Ontario. To the south and west of this, lies a com- paratively level tract of alluvial land, narrow indeed, on the northern shore of Lake Onta- rio, but beyond it spreading into the exten- sive triangle containing the London, Western, and Gore districts, while to the north it is separated from the valley of the Ottawa by the range of hills in which the respective tributaries of that river, and those by which it Is so plentifully watered, take their rise. The connexion thus indicated between the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, and the Bay of Quinte, cannot escape obser* IN NORTH AMERICA. 129 vation, and will be hereafter referred to, as well as its importance in predisposing the future character and prospects of the districts with which it is connected. Upper Canada, or, as we should now call it, Canada West, naturally divides itself with reference to the allotted districts into three parts : — 1. That between the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. 2. On the shores of Lake Ontario, 3. In the angle between Lake Erie and Lake Huron. From its position between the two principal rivers of British North America, the first of these enjoys important natural advantages. These have been heightened by art in the construction of the Kideau Canal, by which a junction is effected between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa. Its surface is a table-land of moderate ele- vation, and the soil extremely rich and fer- tile, consisting chiefly of brown clay and yellow loam, and the growth of its woods attests its quality. It is intersected by nu- merous rivers, generally having their sources (!*': M [li *- 130 BRITISH DOMINIONS in the higher parts of the district, wliich are found nearer its western extremity, and fall- ing either into the Ottawa to the north, or the St. Lawrence. The latter are compara- tively unimportant, and have their rise only in the side of the table-land, while the former extend over its surface, and spread into numerous lakes, and if they occasionally render it marshy, they yet increase its ferti- lity and adaptation for settlement ; the prin* cipal of these are the Madawaska and Ri- deau, and the lakes for the most part form their head waters At the eastern angle of this division is the oounty of Vaudreuil, belonging to the old province of Lower Canada, the situation of which gives it great advantages. Coteau du Lac is a military post, and port of entry. This district has received great improve- ments, and precents a more finished aspect than either of the others. At its south- w^estern angle is situated the town of Kings- ton, next to Toronto the largest and most populous in the province. It was built on th'^ site of the old French fort Frontinac, in 1783. Its position at the junction of Lake Ontario IN NORTH AMERICA. 131 and the St. Lawrence is of great importance, and it is the centre of botli water and land communication with tlie western districts. The harbour is well sheltered, and convenient for ships not exceeding eighteen feet draught. It is defended by two batteries, one on Mis- sissagee point, and the other on Point Fre- derick, which is connected with the town by a handsome wooden bridge. Opposite it is a long, low peninsula, forming the eastern side of Navy Bay ; its western is formed by an- other; the extremety of which is Point Henry. Here is the principal depot of the Royal Navy on Lake Ontario. On its western side are the dockyards, storehouses, slips for building men-of-w^ar, naval barracks, and houses for the authorities and workmen ; and here was built the St. Lawrence, of 120 guns. The existence of so large a vessel so far from the sea is not a little singular. The approach to the harbour is by three channels, Batteaux Channel, between Wolfe and Forest Island, used principally by small craft; South Channel, between the latter and Snake Island, which is surrounded by sand-banks ; and the North Channel, between tr ii;:| m f. i .i tmrntf 132 BRITISH DOMINIONS M ! H i .!'! ■ Snake Island and the main ; this, though the longest, is by far the best. Opposed to Kingston is the American sta- tion of Sacket's Harbour, where every exer- tion is made to maintain a naval force of jrreater magnitude than the British. Kingston is fast rising into importance, notwithstanding the removal of the seat of government to Montreal, and her short enjoyment of the honours and profits attend- ing her possession of it. The public buildings are particularly handsome; especially the Town-hall, and Roman Catholic cathedral. The Public Hospital irf also an important and extensive edifice, and the churches worthy of notice. The population probably exceeds 12,000; the number of tons of shipping entering its port annually, is not less than 400,000; the value of goods imported, considerably up- wards of 200,000/. Ten first-class steamers run daily to and from Kingston; and its trade is carried on by a fleet of 250 smallet steamers, propellers, schooners, and sailing barges. ^ Its progress is not to be wondered ati IN NORTH AMERICA. 133 the sta- xcr- e of mce, it of ihort iend- larlv ft- and ublic nsive Dtice. 000; g its the up- iiners id its lallef ailing d ati when it is considered that Kino:ston is ^' the key of the great lakes," the St. Lawrence and Itideau Canal bearing the whole stream of the inland trade into and from its port; but the enlargement of the canals communi- cating with the St. Lawrence, to a sufficient size for the admission of vessels of burden, will probably deprive her of the profits now attend- ant on the necessary unshipment of bulky goods; promptness and activity on the part of her inhabitants will, however, suffice to coun- teract this, as well as the opposition of the Erie Canal, by which a large proportion of the trade of the lakes is diverted to the United States ; this latter presents the less difficulty, as the harbour of Kingston, and entrance to the Rideau Canal, is open much longer than those on the southern shore of the Lake, being usually free from ice from the begin- ing of April till the end of November. Its importance as a naval station cannot, from its position, ever be lessened ; and if a canal is cut through the isthmus which unites Prince Edward's Island to the main, both its politi- cal and mercantile ascendancy will be insured by affi^rding a direct passage to the western N tj 'f 134 BRITISH DOMINIONS ii M i ■■-■I F' «/■! h districts, secure from danger, either from an enemy, or the winds, waves, rocks and cur- rents that impede navigation around the shores of that island* Two of the most remarkable settlements in this district are Perth, situated on a branch of the Rideau, in a commanding situ- ation, the first establishment of which in 1815 was fostered by government, and its present condition fully justifies the experi- ment, — and Bytown, so named after Colonel By, the commanding Royal engineer of the station, standing on a high and bold eminence, on both sides of Canal Bay, on the Ottawa, at the north-eastern entrance of the E-ideau Canal, in a position of the very first import- ance, as it is one of the greatest beauty, being close to the Chadiere falls ; it is, in conse- quence, rapidly increasing. Along the north bank of the St. Lawrence stand Cornwall, Johnston, Brookville, and other rapidly im- proving towns and settlements. The fron- tier of the district is defended by Fort Wellington, formerly Prescott, which is op- posed to the American fort, Ogdenburgh, or Oswegatchie ; it is situated at the head of IN JiORTH AMERICA. 135 the boat navigation of the St. Lawrence, and the foot of the steam navigation of the lakes, in a position offering important ad- vantages that cannot fail to accelerate its progress. This district, as the centre of the provinces, whether by land or water communication, for commerce or agriculture, does not, perhaps, yield in consideration to any; nor will it lose its importance when the western line of traffic is brought from Georgian Bay by the tributaries of the Ottawa, and through its waters to the St. Lawrence, its base on the first-named stream fully securing them. The most remarkable feature of the second district is the Trent River, and chain of lakes from whence it derives its waters. These form an intimate connexion with Lake Sim- coe, whose waters are discharged into Gloster Bay, at the south of Georgian Bay, in Lake Huron, and stretching far to the north-Avest, as has been remarked, are as closely united to thp head waters of the Madawaska and its tributaries. . ^^3^e colonial government commenced open- fm^ the navigation of this river, but in a in m I I M'l t 13d BRITISH DOMINIONS i: i \::i '.t I most unaccountable manner changed their first intention, and remained content with forming slides for timber round its principal falls. This has, however, been the means of raising into greater importance the dis- trict through which it flows, and the trade in timber is in consequence very considerable ; but it is to be hoped that the original design will now at length be fully carried out ; that the labours of the agriculturist may take the place of those of the lumberer. Trent Port is situated at the mouth of the river ; and although at present only im- portant on account of the timber trade, must rise into notice with great rapidity when the canal is opened. The character of the Trent varies ex- tremely; here slow and tortuous, there rapid and broken; in some places spreading into beautiful lakes, in others forming picturesque cascades. The country through which this river flows offers a fine field for the settler; its forests, formed of the finest timber, indicat- ing the fertility of its soil ; and nothing is wanting that unassisted nature can supply. The woods abound with game ; the waters IN NORTH AMERICA. 137 teem with fish ; and the borders of the lakes afford a plentiful supply of wild rice of an excellent quality, from which, indeed, one of them takes its name. Near the roads which cross the Trent, the price of land is rapidly rising, and more than one flourishing settlement attests the desir- ableness of the location. And indeed, if the future be considered, scarcely any part of the province seems to afford so inviting a prospect, although ague prevails among the low lands. This, however, will disappear before the axe " the settler, and has not, even now, pre- vented the establishment of a considerable settlement on Rice Lake, which is daily increasing, in consequence of the advantages afforded by steam communication, which has already been effected in this retired district. This river having thus plentifully watered the table-land situated between the high land to the north and the former boundary of Lake Ontario, falls into the Bay of Quinte, which, with a deep and sinuous course, stretches into the land to the west, being separated at its mouth from the harbour of Kingston by Amherst Island. The shores of the bay of Quinte present a .1 !J i i N 3 jiM i ] 1 1 1 1 »i II I r 'smm^ I- HI HIIBB 138 BRITISH DOMINIONS 'i.i' p! li! ;m- ;) hi "^^ scene of the greatest fertility and beauty, being covered with thriving, and, for the most part, long established settlements. " It is, indeed," says a recent v^rlter, " a glad and a rich country." At the Mohawk village of Tyendlnaga has been lately built, at the expense of the Indians, a substantial stone church, of Gothic architecture. Its s;ire, 107 feet In height, rises gracefully from the heavy foliage of the surrounding woods, and it is, altogether, no less an ornament to the scenery than a credit to that nation. On the north shore of the bay, the village of PIcton, with Its handsome church, occupies a beautiful indentation, embosomed in hills; while Belleville, the capital of the Victoria district, has risen, in the short space of ten years, to be a large and flourishing town, containing above 4,000 inhabitants, three handsome places of worship, besides public buildings ; while the habitations which sur- round them indicate its steadily increasing wealth and prosperity. The isthmus between this bay and Lake On- tario is but three furlongs broad, and its deep indentations In a course of fifty miles afford secure harbourage for vessels. Besides the IN NORTH AMERICA. 139 le I Trent, it receives the waters of the Nap- panee, the Shannon, and the Moira. On the south of the Trent, in the township of Percy, are salt-springs, from which that article is manufactured : it does not, however, possess the preservative qualities of sea-salt. The land on the borders of the bay is thickly in- habited and well cultivated, producing abun- dant crops of grain. The chain of lakes before mentioned, which water the district of New- castle, and connect themselves with branch lakes, form in reality the head waters of the Trent, the Otanabee uniting that lake to Eice Lake, from whence it flows to Lake Ontario. It may be remarked, that few maps have the waters carefully and cor- rectly marked ; but Bouchette's large survey shows the connexion '^ery clearly, and in- dicates the course of the tributaries. Both the Otanabee and Trent are navigable for boats. Rice Lake is about twenty-five miles long, by four or five wide ; its margin is covered with wild rice, which is gathered by the Indians for their own uses, as well as for sale, and it forms the food of abundance of wild fowl, being common in the low lands of this district. Here government has lately ill I W' 140 BRITISH DOMINIONS Indians desirable If 1 " li '•i '\'^ '■' i' - ^4 -^-i: located a body c situation. The Severn, having its source in Lake Simcoe, is rapid and broken in its current, the lake being raised above 100 feet higher than Lake Huron : this seriously interferes with the otherwise important connexion which exists between it and the head waters of the Trent. Lake Simcoe covers a surface of 300 square miles ; the lands around it are re- markably fine, the soil being deep and easily worked, as indeed are the greater part of those in this district, if a sandy plain between the Ontario and Rice Lake be excepted, and yield luxuriant crops of wheat, rye, maize, or Indian corn, as it is called in Canada, peas, barley, oats, and buck- wheat, as well as fruits and gai^den vegetables. Lake Simcoe affords the means of transit from Toronto to Lake Huron, by Holland river. This has been described " as a natural canal, flowing through a vast marsh, w^ith most serpentine convolutions, often doubling on itself." Nevertheless, it is navigated by a steam-boat, which plies regularly on the lake. Holland river *^ creeps " into Lake Simcoe, IN NORTH AMERICA. 141 Avhich again discharges itself by the rapid and broken stream of the Machedash or Severn river into Lake Huron. On the elevated shore of Kempenfeldt bay a deep and extremely beautiful inlet of this lake, the rising village of Barrie is admirably situated for communication with the extreme western settlements, and promises to be a place of considerable importance, at no very distant period of time, affording every faci- lity for the transit trade, and having the command of Lake Simcoe. All the improve- ments in this part of the country date within the last ten years. To this district naturally appertain the settlements on the shores of Georgian Bay. Of these, Penetanguishene is the most im- portant. This was originally selected as an asylum for such Canadian French as would not transfer their allegiance, when, after the peace, Drummond's Island was ceded to the United States. Here they located in a body, but, like all other Canadian settlements, it w^anted Eno-Hsh influences for its advance- ment. Situated at the extremity of the line which the British emigrants have carried from the shores of the bay of Quinte to those ;il^ ! i l| iiwumiiBiiiU mes J 142 BRITISH DOMINIONS 'i ' h' It 3 v:^l ' :'1: of Lake Huron, it Is now, both politically and commercially, rising into importance; as is also that at Owen's Sound. The yearly presents to the Indians were formerly dis- tributed here, as they are now at Manitoulin Island, in Lake Huron, where government has succeeded in locating a large number of the aborigines. At Penetanguishene a steam vessel of war is maintained. The population is upwards of 1,000, independent of the gar- rison, which is situated three miles from the villao-e. Here Lord Seaton located destitute soldiers who had commuted their pensions, but his laudable attempt failed. Not so, however, a military settlement since made in the vicinity, which is prospering most satis- factorily. The location of the Indians on the Mani- toulin Islands, and the recentdlscovery of cop- per about Lake Superior, will, no doubt, effect the rapid spread of civilization and commerce westward : and the communication with the settlement on the Red River may now be con- templated at no very distant period of time. The climate, however, of these regions, offers a serious obstacle to this progress ; the length and severity of the winters, from the extent ^*, I BRITISH DOMINIONS 143 of surface covered with water, being con- siderably greater than in Canada. York, or Toronto, is a handsome and well- situated town, on the north side of an excel- lent harbour, in latitude 43® 30' N.; it was founded by Governor-General Simcoe, in 1793, and may now contain upwards of 20,000 inhabitants. Here was the seat of government of the upper province, for which it contains the necessary edifices, and it is remarkable for having a college for the education of the youth of the colonies, under the auspices of the Church of England. It is also the seat of a Bishop of the Established Church of England, and of the courts of law of Western Canada. The garrison is situated to the westward of the town. The harbour is nearly circular, and formed by a very narrow peninsula stretching to the westward, and terminating in a curved point nearly opposite the gar- rison, which incloses a basin about one mile and a half in diameter, capablr- of holding a great number of vessels, and where ships may lie in security during the winter. The peninsula is a narrow slip of land, in some places not more than sixty yards in I m t I 144 BRITISH DOMINIONS :i ¥'\ 11 i W ' ^Ri f H^l breadth, but widening «at Its extremity to nearly a mile. Here has been erected a fort and lighthouse. It is also intersected by many large ponds, the haunt of abundance of wildfowl. The peninsula is of sand, on which is a coarse growth of grass and a few scattered trees. From Toronto, Yonge-street, the line of communication with Lake Simcoe, ascends gradually by a succession of terraces 750 feet above Lake Ontario, through a country af- fording indisputable evidence of a rapidly increasing population ; the land is fertile, and Toronto affords a market for its produce. The sides of the hills show plainly the successive and gradually decreasing water level of the lake, the boundary of which must have been at one time the range of hills which now divides the waters falling into Georgian Bay from those which flow into lakes Huron and Erie. This evidence of the former enormous volume of these lakes is to be found on all their shores, and enables us to form some idea of the stupendous power which has been brought into action to produce the present features of the country. IN NORTH AMERICA, 145 Four miles from Toronto is Montgomery's tavern, where the loyal inhabitants under Sir Francis Head, their governor, defeated the insurgents and American sympathizers ; the tavern was burned to the ground, in revenge for the inhuman muider of Colonel Moodie, who was shot by them while pass- ing on the road to Toronto, and died there, but has since been rebuilt, and restored to its original owner. The soil in this neighbourhood is a brick clay, which is coming into extensive use for building, being found to resist the action of the weather and the frost better than the limestone of the district, as well as proving warmer in winter. Toronto is the entrance to the western districts generally, as well of Gore and Wellington as those to the north. The triangular district which completes the organised portion of Upper Canada, lying between lakes Erie and Huron, is separated from the United States on the east by Niagara River, and on the west by the river Detroit and the lake and river St. Clair, and assumes, from its position, both politically and physically, a most im- ^ I h'( >I 146 BRITISH DOMINIONS s M V\ . ' I, (J tilt ■^ ' J. ^^^-SJI portant aspect with reference to Upper Canada. Politically, because the close ap- proach of its extremities to the United States lays it open to invasion in case of hostilities, and in consequence it became a frequent scene of conflict during the two wars in which Great Britain has been en- gaged with them. Physically, on account of its fertility, favourable position for in- ternal commerce, and salubrity of climate. The whole tract lies south of the latitude of Montreal, and its southern extremity, Pelee Island, is in latitude 4P 45'. Its entire surface, excepting the districts of Erie and Niagara, traversed by the range before men- tioned as extending thence along the southern shore of Lake Ontario, exhibits a uniformly level or slightly undulating country, where the highest eminences do not exceed 150 feet; and although from this cause the scenery is less picturesque than that of other parts of Canada, yet, the still course of its waters, and the depth of its majestic woods, give a sublimity to its character that must be felt to be appreciated. This district is alluvial in its formation, IN NORTH AMERICA. 147 )cr ip- ted of e a :wo en- unt in- :e. bude lity, itire and nen- hern rmly ^here feet; iry 18 rts of aters, five a )e felt ation, and principally consists of a stratum of black or yellow loam, above which is deposited a rich and deep vegetable mould, the subsoil consisting of a tenacious grey or blue clay. There is through the whole of it a general want of stone, although limestone is found in many districts, and freestone along the shores of the lakes. The hard woods pre- dominate, there being scarcely sufficient pine and cedar for building and fciicixig. In the heart of the dense woods extensiv plains present themselves, agreeably diversified v ith clumps of trees, and frequently of several thousand miles in extent. The largest of these are found near Long Point on Grand River. Broad and beautiful meadows are also found, which prevail more generally in the London district. The whole is well watered. Its principal : ; ers are the Thames, the Ouse or Grand River, the Welland or Chippewa, the Big Bear, and the Maitland. The Welland, rising most to the eastward, flows through the district of Niagara from Brisbrooke, about fifty miles from its mouth, which is but three miles above the stupen- dous falls of the same name, its navigation u II 148 BRITISH DOMINIONS I :m ■'M. i iX . V \ wholly unobstructed, and for twenty-five miles varies in depth from nine to fourteen feet. It is connected with lakes Ontario and Erie by the canal bearing its name. Thriving settlements, amongst which Hamil- ton is conspicuous, are scattered over this part of the country. Fort George, or Niagara, formerly called Newark, occupies a most advantageous posi- tion between that river and Lake Ontario, which unite from Mississagua Point, where a lighthouse has been built. It has a good harbour, and is rapidly rising into importance. Dundas, about forty -five miles from Toronto, is well situated at the head of Burlington Bay, which is a lake formed by a sandbank, through which a canal has been cut, and thus an excellent harbour formed. Queenstown is built on the fertile plain, beneath the heights of the same name, at the foot of the portage below the falls. Here is erected a monument to General Brock, whose memory is still cherished in the province as the hero of Upper Canada. It is a lofty pillar, and placed in a conspicuous position. The Ouse, or Grand River, is navigable for IN NORTH AMERICA. 149 an small vessels upwards of twenty-five miles, and for large boats much further. Its mouth is obstructed by a bar, on which is only eight feet of water, but oifers an improvable har- bour. The navigation is now open for steam- boats to Brandford, a place rapidly rising into importance as the centre of a rich arable district. Its banks abound with gypsum and iron ore, which supplies the works at Char- lotteville. Having been originally appro- priated to the Indians, their villages are dispersed along its course —the Senecas, near the mouth ; then Delawares, Mississagas, Onondagas, Tuscaroras, and Cayugas, There are also some settlements of the Mohawks. The northern shores of Lake Erie are generally low and level, but irregular, and varied with projecting points, which render navigation more difficult than in the other lakes. Of these points Abino, Long Point or North Foreland, Point aux Pins or Land- guard, and Point Pelee or South Foreland, are most conspicuous. Point Abino and Port Talbot offer stations for shipping, and Landguard incloses a sur- face of water equal to eight square miles, o 3 h ? 150 BRITISH DOMINIONS 1: i ) !i Til i ^'v. ' I communicating with the lake by a small out- let. Pigeon Bay, to the west of South Fore- land, as well as another on the east, afford good anchorage. It is thirty miles from the entrance of Detroit River. The Thames, formerly denominated Riviere a la Franche, has its sources on the south, near the head waters of the Ouse, and on the north, near those of one branch of the Mait- land, and after a sinuous course of 150 miles, discharges itself into Lake St. Clair. At the mouth of this river there is also a bar, but it is navigable for large vessels for fifteen miles to Chatham, and for boats nearly to its source. It flows through an alluvial district, rich in every requisite for a new settlement. It presents fine plains and na- tural meadows, and the woods growing about it are of the first quality. Chatham is odvantageously situated for trade and commerce ; and London, from its central situation, may hereafter take the lead among the many rapidly improving places in this district. It is already a large and flourishing town, has wide streets, brick houses, and is a military station. ) IN NORTU AMERICA. 151 Big Bear Elver or **' Creek," as it is usually called, runs nearly parallel to the Thames, and in one r jtrt approaches it within four or five miles. Its course of 100 miles is throu^jh a district of similar character. The country about the rivers Ouse, Sable, and Maitland, on the south and north of the Huron tract of the Canada Company, is recently settled and comparatively but little known. It is, however, among the most pro- mising districts in Canada West, yielding to none in fertility, and having the advantage of systematic allotment, and the expenditure of considerable sums by the Company in public works, mills, roads, and harbours ; so that already Goderich has become a port of some consequence, and trade and agriculture are rapidly progressing. That town is beauti^ fully situated at the mouth of the river Maitland, on the banks of Lake Huron, which rise to the height of 130 feet, and may contain 1000 inhabitants. Bayfield, situated on the river of the same name, is also a con- siderable town. The whole district is fast settling, and already contains several thou- sand inhabitants. ^1 wm WS ji p I' ■ ' 4' ' 1- '^ It'll m ft iii.- 152 BRITISH DOMINIONS The channels of the rivers in the Huron tract are principally limestone, and the water consequently excellent. The surface is gene- rally undulating ; and the scenery, from the magnificence of the trees, their size and dis- tance from each other, has frequently a park-like appearance. Amherstburgh, a frontier town and mili- tary post, is situated on the banks of the Detroit, in perhaps the most delightful part of this highly favoured district ; wnere the salubrity of the climate, the clearness of the atmosphere, the crystalline purity of the waters, the exuberant fertility, richness, and delicacy of its vegetable productions, the variety of game with which its magnificent woods abound, enlivened as they are by the cheerful notes of the feathered warblers which inhabit them, and the numerous fish which play in its waters, combine to afibrd not only every necessary, but every luxury to man. It is, therefore, no wonder that it should rank among the most respectable and wealthy of the towns of the province, or possess, though removed so far from the capital, " the plea- sures of good society and charms of social *k IN NORTH AMERICA. 153 refinement." Indeed, of the whole of this district, It would be difficult to convey a correct idea without seeming exaggera- tion. A monument has been erected in this town to the memory of those who fell In repelling the piratical invasions of the citizens of the United States. Conspicuously placed on the frontier, it will serve to remind succeeding generations of the folly, no less than the wickedness, of acting In opposition to the laws of nations, as well as those of morality and religion. The rapid settlement of Canada West has been accompanied by a corresponding development of Its recources for trade and commerce, which its superior internal water-: communication has powerfully assisted ; and where this is defective, art has applied sufficient remedies in the Welland and E-i- deau canals, with their auxiliary cuttings on the Ottawa and St. Lawrence. The former of these was originally under- taken by a Company incorporated in 1825, with a capital of 180,000/., and was pro- jected by Mr. W. H. Morritt, a resident iu i1 "i I 154 BRITISH DOMINIONS m r-' w A . ^>-k I I'lvM'- if :.H' I .'.;*■ ■•■ a . I fr the village of St. Catherine's, through which it now passes. It is forty-two miles in length, and con- sists of three sections ; the first extending from Grand River to the Welland, sixteen miles ; the second being part of that river, ten miles ; and the third connecting it with Lake Ontario, sixteen miles. It joins the Ouse, or Grand River, about one mile and a half from its mouth, where the inconvenience of a shifting bar is remedied by piers extend- ing into the deep water of the lake. This canal has, however, another outlet into Lake Erie, through the Niagara river ; which affords greater facilities for the com- merce of BufFaloe and the more easterly shores of the lake, while that from the west and south is more readily directed into the mouth of the other channel, which has this advantage, that the preva- lence of westerly winds in the spring, pack- ing the ice on the eastern shores of the lake, leaves its entrance free from that obstruction at a much earlier period. This also operates, as has been remarked, to give the Welland a superiority over the Erie canal, in ad- IN NORTH AMERICA. 15^ dition to those it has always possessed in depth and breadth. Their relative proportions were, originally. The Welland, breadth, 56ft. depth, 8ift. The Erie, „ 40ft. „ 4 ft. In the former, the chambers of the locks were 100ft. by 22ft. ; in the latter, 90ft. by 12ft. ; and as it has seventy-seven, in its course of 353 miles, and those of the most solid construction, any alteration must be attended with immense expense. To secure the transit trade of the lakes with the Atlantic is, of course, the object of these canals ; and in their efforts to accomplish this, the Canadians have surpassed their southern rivals ; so that their artificial waters being accommodated to the demands of a rapidly increasing trade, and the admission of vessels of large tonnage, they may look forward to reaping the fruits of their indus- try and perseverance. The importance of this will best be seen by an estimate of the tonnage employed in this trade. In 1844, it exceeded 80,000; and, calcu- lating at the same ratio of progression as the i i\ 156 BRITISH DOMINIONS •V'' W w i if! f five preceding years, it has now in all pro- bability reached 100,000 ; its increase in that time having been three-fold. The rapid advance of trade is demonstrated by the fact, that, while in 1830 some six or seven steamers only were to be found on Lake Erie, its waters are now furrowed by the constant passage of upwards of sixty vessels, not less remarkable for their enlargement in size than in number. To these must be added, some ten smaller boats, besides pro- pellers, fifty brigs, and nearly three hundred schooners. The excellence of the packet boats on this lake is evidenced by the customary passage from Kingston to Toronto being made in eighteen hours, or about ten miles an hour including stoppages of all kinds. Ontario is not far behind her sister, but the westward stream of settlement is in favour of Lake Erie. The Welland canal has probably exceeded Its originally estimated cost by double its amount; and it was found necessary that upwards of 200,000/. should be laid out upon it by Government. The total cost has pro- IN NORTH AMERICA, 157 iro- in ^pid the ven lake the sels, it in : be pro- dred s on nary )eing miles :inds. but IS in eeded le its that upon s pro- bably exceeded 500,000/. This has, however, been consequent on the great difficulties that presented themselves, the water-level of Lake Erie being 334 feet above that of Lake On- tario, and the consequent necessity of con- structing thirty-seven locks to overcome them, thirty-two of which are in almost immediate succession. But the Welland canal thus uniting the waters of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and aiford- ing an easy mode of transit to the south- western districts of Canada, has another element of national importance too great to be omitted. The Niagara frontier must always be greatly exposed in the event of war, and by it vessels may pass in safety through the heart of our own territory, instead of being subject to any attack in their passage down the river. This afforded one great induce- ment to its extension to Grand River, and is an advantage possessed to a still greater extent by the Rideau, which is carried even further inland, and is protected at its junction with Lake Ontario, by the fortifi- cations of Kingston, while the mouth of the p I 158 BRITISH DOMINIONS II . i'.' 1 i ! i i ■/ -'i' f liS) Ottawa river, with the waters of which it communicates towards the east, is entirely surrounded by British territory, and covered by the island and city of Montreal. The events of 1837-8 having shown how little the authority of a democracy can control the people it professes to rule, afford suf- ficient evidence of the necessity of such a provision. The Rideau canal crosses the country between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, in a transverse direction, and unites with the latter river below the Chaudiere falls : a little above it are the Eideau, near the mouth of the river of the same name, and which aptly expresses their character. The formation of this canal is singular; presenting rather the appearance of a series of lakes, some natural, but for the most part artificial, the valleys being flooded by dams built across the course of the rivers, and united together by aqueducts and locks. These not unfrequently have more than one perceptible channel, and the decayed vege- table substances with which the surface of the ground was covered, floating to the top. . ii IN NORTH AMERICA. 159 h it relv ered The ittle itrol suf- ch a mtry a, in I the Is: a the and ular ; series most d by ivers, locks. ,n one vege- xce of e top, clothe the waters with a green mantle, and offer an appearance the peculiarity of which has been so graphically described in a recent publication.* Rideau Lake, which is about twenty-four miles long, with an average breadth of seven, is the highest level of its waters, being 283 feet above the Ottawa, and 154 above the surface of Lake Ontario ; to over- come this difference of height, seventeen locks are required from Kingston to that lake, and thirty between it and the Ottawa. There are twenty dams throughout the whole length of this canal, and their effect is surprising. " In several instances a dam not more than 24 feet high and 180 feet wide will throw the rapids and rivers into a still sheet above it, for a distance of more than twenty miles." So that the face of the coun- try through which it is carried is strangely altered. The land thus drowned was not, generally, of much value, the beavers having of old carried out the same principle for their own purposes, and created large swampy wastes, which, if they did not suggest its ^ * Sir F. Head's " Backwoodsman." m ill Wd m 160 BRITISH DOMINIONS li application to the purposes of corner lal intercourse, at least serve to show hov. '\uu* the unassisted efforts of instinct approach those of reason. The locks on this canal were originally planned upon the same scale as those of the Grenville and La Chine canals, but afterwards increased to 142 feet in length by 33 in width, with a depth of five feet water. The estimated expense of constructing the works was little short of half a million sterling ; this however, has been already much extended. The Grenville and La Chine canals com- plete the union of the lakes and St. Lawrence; the former consisting of three sections ; one at Long Sault, on the Ottawa, another at Chute a Blondeau, and the third at the Carillon rapids. By these an uninterrupted navigation is opened to La Chine, nine miles above Montreal; and by them, and the Eideau, all the difficulties presented by the River Ottawa, and the Iroquois or Cataraqui channel of the St. Lawrence, (which, however beautiful and accessible through its intricate windings among the Thousand Islands, inter- poses, below them, insuperable barriers to IN NORTH AMERICA. 161 5 lal navigation), have been overcome. A canal has been projected to do so more Imincdiatcly, which would doubtless return a satisfactory interest on the capital embarked. Kail- roads, however, seem likely for the present to supersede canals, and absorb the capital to be devoted to internal communication, which, nevertheless, appears more perfectly developed in the infancy of the Canadas, than in many long established kingdoms ; so great are the effects of capital and energy, when brought to bear on a country whose natural '^ capabilities " are of so high an order. That large vessels are preparing to carry the timber of Canada West direct to the West Indies, and that, at present, sufficient vessels cannot be found to transport the pro- duce of those favoured lands for the supply of the mother country, while attention has been directed to the reopening of the fish- eries, the smelting of iron in the Ottawa and Trent districts, and the production of copper from the shores of Lake Superior, are facts which require only to be known, to induce the conviction that what has been done is only the jrrelude to greater things, and that ^3 f. !* IN NORTH AMERICA, 163 CHAPTER V. THE LAKES AND RIVERS OF CANADA. Having traced the connexion of the *^ Great River of Canada," as the St. Law- rence was originally called, through its tributaries, by which the lower part of the province is watered both to the north and south, and with the upper by the shores of the Great Lakes, which form its southern land boundary, it remains only to give a more particular account of this mighty mass of fresh water, far exceeding in superficies and contents, if not in length, the rivers Amazon and Mississippi, although from thq depth of the lakes it does not probably carry to the ocean a larger volume of water.* * The Tables of Physical Geography give the following comparison : — miles. Amazon, length . 4,095, proportion 22f Mississippi „ • 3,420, „ 29 St. Lawrence „ . 4,050, But this has only reference to length. ?> }) 22^ '% m ii rt » li'« "f Hi ;i' I ' i :t 1< ' 164 BRITISH DOMINIONS Without this the topography of Canada would indeed be incomplete, more especially as it has been the basis of the previous descrip- tion; as it is the natural link between its two divisions, and the source of the beauty, fertility, and prosperity of the province. If the St. Lawrence be considered as flowing through the lakes, its source must be sought in the river St. Louis, which falls into the western extremity of Lake Superior, to the south of the boundary of the United States, through which, by an easterly and south-easterly course it reaches Lake Erie, and thence, with a gradually increasing north- easterly direction, flows through Lake On- tario to the Atlantic, above two thousand miles from its source. The name of the river, thus considered, varies in different places ; between Lake Su- perior and Lake Huron, it is called the Nar- rows, or the Straits or Falls of St. Mary's ; from the latter lake to Lake St. Clair it is termed the River St. Clair ; and thence to Lake Erie, the Detroit or Eiver Detroit; be- tween Lakes Erie and Ontario the River Niagara, and from Lake Ontario to Montreal IN NORTH AMERICA. 165 the Cataraqui or Iroquois; below this it assumes its more common appellation, de- rived from the gulf into which it flows, viz. the St. Lawrence. Lake Superior, the most northern of these fresh water inland seas, being situated between the parallels 46° 25' and 49°northlat. is unequalled in magnitude by any other in the world; its length, measured on a curved line through the centre, is about 360 geo- graphical miles, its extreme breadth 140, and its circumference 1500. The surface of its waters is 627 feet above the level of the Atlantic, while its greatest depth exceeds 1,200, or nearly 600 feet below the level of that ocean. Its shores, however, sufficiently indicate that the former height of its waters must have exceeded the present by at least forty or fifty feet, while its basin, extending in some places fifty miles from its present limits, was bounded by those mountain ridges, in which the rivers tributary to it have their rise. The summits of these hills in many places attain an elevation of 1500 feet above the level of its waters, and the sources of the rivers have in some instinces been ascer- ■■f.i I ''•'■4 ill ■'■'ii '41 166 BRITISH DOMINIONS M 'il ■A ! % -i-V 'A um . -I ^i i 1 !!, I i*: tained to be from 500 to 600 feet above their mouths. These are indeed numerous, but not remarkable for their length, although they contribute in the aggregate a vast volume to its waters. Worthy of comparison with seas, and like them exposed to the power of storms and tempests, it exhibits in their effects the same appearances, and its raging billows lose nothing of their terror by the comparison. It is not, however, like them, aifected by a periodical flux and reflux, and the only changes in its apparent level are conse- quent upon the spring freshets, particularly after a more than usually rigorous winter, or upon the long continuance of a strong breeze in one quarter. The waters are remarkable for their ex- treme purity, which permits the bottom to be seen at extraordinary depths. That they were once salt, is by no means improbable, from the nature of the fish that inhabit them, and the marine shells that are found along the beaches or imbedded in the shores. It has indeed been asserted that they are so at present in the lowest depths. ^^SSBSmtg^f^m IN NORTH AMERICA. 167 On the north and north-east it has several islands ; of these Isle Koyal is the largest, measuring above 100 miles in length, by 40 in breadth. The waters of Lake Superior are discharged through the Strait of St. Mary, or, as it is more familiarly termed, the Narrows, which are about fifty miles long, and connect it with Lake Huron. About midway between the lakes there is a rapid fall of twenty-two and a half feet in the bed of the river, causing the confined mass of waters "^o rao-e in their narrow channel with tumultuous and unceasing violence, creating a scene of con- fusion, which, from the noise and turmoil of the waters, and the dazzling whiteness of the surge, is not deficient in grandeur of effect, althougii it cannot be compared with others more worthy the term of ^' fall," which has been applied to this. It is called the falls of St. Mary, and has been descended by intrepid and experienced vc^yagers, but is generally avoided by a portage of two miles. The boundary line between the British dominions, and those of the United States, commencing at the mor.th of Pigeon River, and I i !i.; .'■'A'. = ,.i -.4 \\i \i i'fi I : ij ! 168 BRITISH DOMINIONS running to the north of Isle Royal, is carried through the centre of the Lake and Strait of Saint Mary, leaving Sugar Island and Isle Joseph on the north, and Isle Neebish on the south, and passing between Drummond and Cockburn Islands, into the centre of Lake Huron. On Isle Joseph, a military detach- ment anci depot was formerly placed. It formr d the most remote station on the British BkTe of the frontier. An American detach- .i»e>;i was also established on Drummond Islaiiv* These islands abound in geological and fossU curiosities. Lake Huron, next to Lake Superior in size as in position, is about 240 miles long, by 220 broad. It is about thirty-two feet lower than Lake Superior, and about thirty above Lake Erie ; its depth, and the character of its waters, is the same as the former. This lake appears neniiy divided by a cham of islands ; the laigest of which is above seventy -five miles long, by twenty-three in extreme breadth; from position it completely commands the navigation, while its deeply indented shores will probably be found to fit it no less for an important naval station. IN NORTH AMERICA. 169 rried lit of Isle 1 the [ and Lake tach- It ritish tach- Qiond )gical nsize y 220 r than Lake of its L ch^m above iree in )letely leeply md to tation. It is called the " Grand Manitoulin," from the Indians supposing it to be consecrated to the Great Spirit, or " Manitou," and has been appropriated as the abode of scattered In- dians having no particular residence, as well as refugees from the United States, a plan originating with Lord Seaton in 1835, and patronized by his successors, who have, with the consent of the natives, authorized the sale of Indian lands in certain localities, and on these islands afforded to their owners an asylum in less dangerous proximity to the civilization of the white man. Commencing at Drummond Island, this chain of islands, remarkable for the beauty and variety of their scenery, takes its name from the largest. The Manitoulin series nearly reaches Cape Hurd, the northernmost point of Cabot's peninsula, forming an inner lake of about 250 miles in length, by fifty in extreme breadth, but rocky, and exposed to fogs, gales, and currents. This has been named Georgian Bay, and at its southern extremity, Machedash Bay, receives the waters of Lake Simcoe, by the Severn river, while the rivers watering the Huron Q 'I' m .' 1' ; .''"'7'] ) iii ir 170 BRITISH DOMINIONS It ' ^ t I I » tract of the Canada Company, fall into it from its eastern shore ; but the inland com- munication thus afforded, as well as the com- munication between Georgian Bay and the Ottawa, by Lake Simcoe, and the Madawas- ka, and by the French river, with Lake Nis- pissing, which discharges itself into the Ot- tawa at Mataouin, has been already noticed. The shores of the lake, especially to the north, where the Cloche mountains rise conspi- cuously, exhibiting for forty miles their lofty summits, are, for the most part, barren and broken. Clay cliffs, boulders, abrupt rocks and wooded steeps, of from thirty to eighty, and one hundred feet in height, constitute their general features : nevertheless the lands above, especially to the eastward, are of a most excellent quality. To the south is the deep bay of Saginaw. Lake Michigan, which is united with Lake Huron by Michilimackinac, is entirely within the territories of the United States; between the two is situated the state of Michigan, r^. vailing in fertility the opposing district of Canada West. The outlet of Lake Huron is the river IN NORTH AMERICA. 171 it com- com- 1 the St. Clair, which, flowing between high and picturesque banks, is navigable for small vessels to Lake St. Clair, into which it ex- pands after a course of thirty miles. It is nearly circular, with a diameter of about thirty miles. The waters are generally shoal, but admitting, in the channel, the navigation of steam-boats or vessels of light draught. Its banks are low and level, and at its nor- thern extremity, a group of low islets forms various channels for the admission of the waters of the St. Clair river. These, with the lands in the immediat- neighbourhood, which to the east are watered by the Thames and Big Bear rivers, are, as has been remarked, alluvial in their forma- tion, and from their fertility invite the settle- ment of a rapidly increasing population. The Detroit or strait, of late called De- troit River, connects Lake St. Clair with Lake Erie. The course of the St. Clair river is nearly north and south, but the Detroit assumes a semi-circular shape, rang- ing from south-west to south. It is twenty- nine miles long, broad and deep, and divided into two channels for more than half its M ' 1 172 BRITISH DOMINIONS 1^ ^^1 course by elongated islands; of these the largest are Grosse Isle, about eight, and Turkey Island, about five miles in length, the first on the American and the last on the British side ; but the most important is Isle au Bois Blanc, the Navy Island of the western district, situated nearly opposite to Amherstburgh, on the eastern side of the boundary between the two countries, which follows a middle course down the stream, and having the deepest channel to the east- Avard, commands the entrance of the river, which is navigable for the vessels in use upon the lakes, and covering the harbour of Am- herstburgh, affords them excellent shelter and anchorage. Detroit, on the American side of the river, is a place of importance from its trade and population, as well as its fortifications ; it was taken and burnt by the British under General Brock, when General Hull and his army surrendered themselves prisoners of war in 1812. Since it was rebuilt, it has been and is still a rapidly pro- gressing and prosperous town. The fertility and beauty of the shores of this river have already been spoken of. IN NORTH AMERICA. 173 Lake Eric receives the Detroit about thirty miles from its western extremity, and here the course of the chain varies from north and south to nearly east and west. The ex- tensive promontories on its northern coast have already been noticed ; and these, toge- ther with a current constantly running to the eastward, add to the difficulties of the upward navigation. It may, how^ r, be here men- tioned, that a natural channel was formed during a heavy gale through Long Point or North Foreland, close to the mainland, 300 yards wide, and from eleven to twelve feet deep, requiring nothing but the construction of a pier at the west end to secure a good channel and safe harbour on both sides. Some time since it was actually in contem- plation to cut a canai near the same spot, the cost of which was estimated at 12,000/. The islands on the lake, exclusively con- fined to the western part of it, are, Pelee Island, St. George's, La Fleur, Bass, and Cunninocham. The former is remarkable as being the most southern territory in North America belonging to Great Britain. Lake Erie is abore 260 miles long, and irl :-t,!" .17 i\ I q3 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ML// / '^ y 1.0 'U|28 |2.5 ~ lis 12.2 I.I 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1 \h < 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 174 BRITISH DOMINIONS i! ! 1 m * i> 63 miles broad at its centre, with a circum- ference of 658 miles. Its position makes it the common centre of the inland navigation of North America, and perhaps the whole globe does not present one so peculiar. Steam-boat communication having been established between the Mississippi and Al- leghany, has been carried as far up the latter as Warren, and, with only slight improve- ments, might be extended to within three miles of Portland harbour, in latitude about 42° 30', on the south-eastern shores of the lake. The Ohio and Pennsylvanian canals offer an immediate communication through the Ohio river, while towards the east it is now uninterrupted to the Atlantic, both by the St. Lawrence and by the Erie Canal to Albany* On this water, during the American war^ the navies of the opposing parties were often engaged, but since the peace it has been the theatre of a more honourable contest for the spread of commerce and internal com- munication, and now bears upon its expansive bosom numerous fleets both of steam and sailing vessels, constantly occupied in the^ trafiic of the country, or in bearing westward »;i, 1 IN NORTH AMERICA. 175 ircum- ikes it gation whole • been idAl- latter prove- three about of the canals rough s now he St. bany. war^ often n the t for com- nsive and 1 the ward its adopted children to their future homes. The southern shores of Lake Erie are gene- rally low, except about Lake Chateaughue, and the head waters of the Alleghany, near Portland. The only important naval stations on this coast are at Presqu-isle, opposite the North Foreland, a harbour similar in every respect to that of York, on Lake Ontario. On its south side is the town of Erie, a naval station and depot for ship-building; on the east, Portland, Cataragus, and Buffalo, the latter rising fast into import- ance ; and on the west, Sandusky Bay, and the Miami as well as Cunningham Island, offer naval and commercial advantages. Lake Erie is 565 feet above the nearest tide- waters of the ocean, and 334 above the level of Lake Ontario ; it is only 270 feet in depth, T)eing by far the shallowest of these lakes, and it will therefore appear no impossibility that at some future day the larger portion of its present surface may become dry land, its greatest depth not reaching the surface of the waters of the Ontario, while that, as well as Lakes Superior and Huron reach far below the level of the sea. This will be seen more r '1 ' i i i i • i ■ vl k H '1 1 1 1 1 1 1i H m IH ! II IP !i I 17G BRITISH DOMINIONS plainly by reference to the map of the lakes facing this chapter. As the St. Clair and Detroit channels form the only outlets of Lakes Superior and Huron, so Lake Erie discharges all Its super- fluous waters through the Niagara, which, commencing at Its north-eastern extremity, having Its course generally from south to north. Is In a direct line barely twenty-eight miles, but by the bends of the river thirty- three, In length ; and scarcely can any slirilar extent of water oiFer the same amount of In- terest, whether natural or adventitious. Connecting as yet, If they do not always continue so, the two most Important lakes^ In the chain with respect to the Inland navi- gation of North America ; dividing the terri- tories of two nations the most powerful, at least commercially, on the globe ; separating, even under a change of masters, lands the Interests of the Inhabitants of which have always been opposed, and presenting natural features of such stupendous magnificence that the world does not afford their parallel, these waters may well claim more than ordinary attention. IN NORTH AMERICA. 177 lakes xnnels )r and 3uper- (Vhich, 3mlty, ith to -eight ;hirty- ilirilar of in- >• Iways lakes* navi- terri- !ul, at [ating, is the have itural icence •allel, than The Niagara first assumes the character of a river at Fort Erie ; having there a breadth of one mile, below this, contracting its channel to one half, it becomes rapid opposite Black Rock, where it expands to its original width, and dividing into two channels, forms four flat islands, the last in succession being six miles and a half below Fort Erie : they are named respectively, the two smallest Squaw Islands, and the other two Snake and Straw- berry Islands. From the south point of the latter the shores diverge north-east and south-east, and encircle an island containing 11,200 acres, well wooded and fertile, and having some settlements upon it. It is twelve miles long and two miles broad, and below it is Navy Island, noted in future history as the strong- hold of the American "sympathisers," and the scene of the capture and burning of the Caroline. It is the only one in the river belonging to England, the Commissioners having found the deepest channel to the west of the others. Navy Island lies at the foot of the west channel and north-east end of Grand Isle. From it the course of the river ii ;.'! li I I r ■ m .,ri • i I mw ili: *:l 178 BRITISH DOMINIONS is due west, and the distance to the head of the falls three miles and a half. Its breadth is rather more than one mile. The river is navigable from Lake Erie to Chippewa, a village on the British side at the mouth of the river Welland. Here com- mences the portage, as that on the American side does at Fort Schlosser on the opposite bank, near which place, at Gill Creek, is a convenient harbour for small vessels navi- gating Lake Erie. The shores of the river are low, and toward the eastern side of the lake more particu- larly so, rising but little above its level. To the east of Grand Island is Tonewanta Creek, affording depth of water for boats twelve miles from its mouth, and forming the en- trance to the Erie Canal. Below Navy Island the river forms a deep bay to the NN.E., and from Lake Erie to this place the fall is but fifteen feet, while from it to the head of the cataract, a distance of only half a mile, the fall is fifty-one feet. Here the river also rapidly contracts, the bay above being two miles across, while at the head of the falls it is barely three quarters m i I mssm icad of ireadth Erie to side at •e com- aericaii pposite ek, is a s navi- toward ^articu- el. To . Creek, twelve the en- a deep Lrie to , while istance He feet, the bay at the uarters IN NORTH AMERICA. 179 of a mile, and in other places does not exceed 450 yards. About half a mile above the falls, the river descending on a deeply in- clined plane, its waters begin to ripple a short distance below the Welland river, and are gradually broken by their accelerated course over the rocky channel, where, accu- mulating their forces, they sweep along in one broad majestic current, till, divided by Goat Island, they are projected over the precipice upon which it hangs, an un- broken height of 162 feet, into the abyss below. Goat Island divides the falls in two un- equal parts ; the English or Horseshoe-fall exceeding the American in breadth by more than two hundred yards, while it is sur- passed by it in height thirteen feet. They form, together with the Island, the chord of an irregular arc of about 1,100 yards, the di- mensions of which may be thus estimated :— ; YARDS. < The Great or Horseshoe Fall ... 700 Goat Island 330 American Fall 375 Length of arc 1,405 h ' ' f';il 180 BRITISH DOMINIONS Hi ■l' i ;! 11 • ii The American fall is again subdivided by a small island cutting off a minor portion of the waters, to which, probably from the con- trast of its height to its breadth, as compared with the Great fall, the name Montmorenci has been given. No greater contrast can be imagined than that afforded by the banks of the river below and above the falls ; there, it flows smoothly between low and verdant banks smiling fruitfully under the labours of the husband- man; here, the limestone precipices sink sheer down in a dark chasm hundreds of feet below, through which the river rushes with impetuous course, foaming and boiling ; the whiteness of its froth, as it breaks over the rocks which impede it, heightened by the dark depths of its whirlpools. At the base of the falls it is 1,000 feet in breadth and 200 in depth, but soon narrows to about half; yet, notwithstanding its contracted channel, the mass of waters that are forced through it^ and the rapidity of the current, a ferry, by , which passengers can cross in perfect safety, is established only 900 yards below the falls. "tli I IP IN NORTH AMERICA. 181 i by a :ion of e con- ipared orenci d than below loothly iiniling Lsband- 38 sink reds of rushes oiling ; [s over led by At the )readth ) about tracted forced urrent, 088 in yards To offer a description of this stupendous effort of nature would be without the limits of the present work; and it is doubtful whether the attempt, which has so often been made, has ever produced so just an idea of the extraordinary scene as a simple detail of the facts connected with it, aiding and assisting the imagination. But yet it is cer- tain, that however lively, and however hardly tasked, not even the imagination has ever been able to attain to it ; for this is perhaps one among the few of nature's wonders, from the contemplation of which none have returned disappointed, the only drawback experienced resulting from the operations of that utilitarian spirit which, especially throughout the union, seems to take r»leasure in marring the fairest features of nature, and which is here rampant. Five miles below the falls is " the whirl- pool," formed by a sudden bend of the river, where the rapid torrent is hurled against the face of the opposing precipice, recoiling with a force even more destructive than that exerted by the falls themselves, and in its reaction en gulphing everything into its watery depthsr li R 182 BRITIsn DOMINIONS \!< \ 1 1^ !l i '!i I', i ' ■; It is, however, productive of one great advantage, by checking the rapidity of the water, which, subdued and chastened by the direful conflict, flows with a more tranquil course towards Lake Ontario, and affords one among the innumerable proofs to be found wherever nature has been at work on a great scale, of the superintend- ing hand of God ordering all things in sub- servience to his good intentions toward man. Nine miles below it emerges from the chasm, and with a deeper tide and more moderate current, is discharged between banks of in- considerable height into the wide expanse of the lake. From the base of the falls to Queenstown, at the foot of the gorge, the descent of the water is 104 feet, from thence to Ontario only two. The following table will show at a glance the differences of elevation between the mouth and source of the Niagara river. From Lake Erie to head of rapids . , 15 feet. Thence to head of falls 61 Fall on American side 162 From base to Queenstown . . . ,104 Thence to Lake Ontario 2 ft » j> Difference of level between the lakes 334 1 1 ;■ i'l IN NORTH AMERICA. 183 great of the ed by- more O5 and proofs 3en at ntend- 1 sub- i man. ^hasrn, derate of in- mse of stown^ of the Ontario wat a tween iver. eet. y» if This difference of 334 feet in thirty-three miles, presenting insuperable obstacles to na- vigation, has been overcome by the Welland Canal, as before mentioned. Lake Ontario, the last and lowest of this wonderful chain of inland waters, is about 172 miles long by 59$ in extreme breadth, with a circumference of 467, and follows the same direction as Lake Erie. The depth of its waters is said to vary exceedingly, being seldom less than three or more than fifty fathoms, except in the middle, where at- tempts have been made with three hundred fathoms, without reaching the bottom. Its surface is 231 feet above the tide waters, at Three Rivers. This lake, better known than the others to travellers in Canada, being of necessity the path to the western districts, presents, in the variety of its shores, scenery of a highly picturesque character ; the most striking points of which are the white cliffs of Toronto, and the highland called the Devil's Nose, above Presqu'ile; while, to the south, " Fifty-mile-hill," so called on ac- count of its distance from Niagara, raises its conical head above the ridge that, after hi I n 184 BRITISH DOMINIONS ■''■ ■■' »• ' • , . f 1 ' ? - ' ■ . m i forming the barrier over which the river is precipitated, stretches away to the eastward. Through this, near the centre of the lake, the Genessee forces its way from the south, broken into the romantic falls which bear the same name. The harbours on this lake have already been noticed as naval stations; the islands lie principally towards its eastern extremity, about the entrances of the two most impor- tant, Kingston and Sacket's harbours, situated on its opposite shores. The waters of the Ontario, like those of the other lakes, are limpid and transparent, and suitable for domestic uses ; but they are sometimes covered with a yellowish scum in the .month of June, which renders them inapplicable to that purpose for the time. Here is also seen the Mirage which, as well as on the shores of the Mediterranean and in the desert, produces such extraordinary optical delusions. This lake is subject to violent squalls, which raise waves of formidable appearance, but not often greater than can be overcome by the exercise of ordinary skill and presence of ii'j.' %. IN NORTH AMERICA. 185 vcr IS ward. lake, lOUtll, ir the ready lands mity, npor- uated )se of irent, they )wish ciders r the hich, -nean inary lalls, mce, eby ce of mind. The connexion of its waters with the Ottawa, by the RIdeau canal, has been al- ready noticed. The eastern extremity of the lake assumes a highly diversified character ; the discharge IS known by the names of Iroquois and Ca- taraqui, and flows in so broad and full a stream for thirty-nine miles, as to have the appearance of an extended lake. It is studded throughout this distance with islands nume- rous enough to entitle it to the indefinite ap- pellation of the Lake of the Thousand Islands. Their number has, however, been ascertained to be one thousand six hundred and ninety- two, forming an intricate labyrinth of every variety of form, shape, and appearance ; and in conjunction with the varied channels of the waters, and the highly cultivated and well peopled district through which it flows, pre- senting a tout eiisemble more pleasing than can well be Imagined, and realizing the Jreams of romance, or the imaginative de- scriptions of Eastern story. From hence to Prescott the course of the river is still diver- sified by islands, and wears a most pleasing aspect, and to this point it is navigable. Here, r3 ^ I ill : ■« III, .1 ■:l''l M I f ■I! ■ i J ;; '7 , 1! 'is! J ; 1 !(:#■ i V. : 186 BRITISH DOMINIONS however, the rapids commence, and its cur- rent to Montreal is only practicable for canoes, batteaux, rafts, &c. The most diffi- cult and picturesque of these rapids is the " Long, Sault," above Cornwall, forty-six miles from Montreal. It is about nine miles long, and intersected by several islands, through the channels formed by which its waters rush with great impetuosity, at the rate of twenty-seven miles an hour, until, arriving at the lower extremity, they take a sudden leap over a slight precipice, and from this the rapid derives its name. Above Montreal the lakes of St. Francis and St. Louis, broad expansions of the river, studded with islands, present somewhat simi- lar features below to those already described above the rapids, the former being twenty* five miles long by five and a half broad, and the latter twelve miles long by six broad- The shores of both are low, the latter being formed by the junction of the Ottawa with the St. Lawrence ; into this merges the lake of the Tv/o Mountains at the mouth of the former river, in extreme length twenty-four miles, but varying in breadth from one to six; IN NORTH AMERICA, 187 s cur- ie for t diffi- is the •ty-six I miles jlands, Lch its at the untily take a i from Vancis river, t simi- cribed vrenty- d, and broadj being a with e lake of the y-four to six; At the confluence are the islands of Montreal, Jesus, Bizard, and Perrot, already described. Between lakes St. Francis and St. Louis is a singular scene, termed the Cascades ; where an extraordinary agitation of the waters is observable, and waves thrown up to a height of several feet, exhibiting nearly the same effect as would be produced by a violent tempest, the result probably of a sudden fall in the bed of the river, precipitating its waters with great velocity between the islands on a hollow and rocky bottom. A canal, 500 yards in length, enables boats to avoid its dangers. Below Lake St. Louis is the beautiful Sault St. Louis, with the picturesque Indian village of Chawanaga on the south (memo- rable in modern Canadian history as the scene of the capture of a body of insurgents by the inhabitants, as has been before related, while assembled at divine worship on the Lord's day) and La Chine on the north ; it is very violent and dangerous, but the La Chine Canal obviates its difficulties. The shores of the river from Montreal to Quebec have been already described in their .1 ■ * .-'ill '■ J; ii! 1 ! I i '!! h ; 188 BRITISH DOMINIONS general features ; to this point ships of any burden can ascend. About forty-five miles below it the river expands into lake St. Peter, similar in most respects to the others. A group of islands covers about nine miles of its western surface. At Three Rivers the tide is first felt, and below it are the rapids of Richelieu, where the rocky bed of the river so breaks the stream, and the contracted channel so in- creases its velocity, that a proper time of tide and due caution are required to secure safety in passing them. From Montreal to this point, as has been noticed, the shores are low ; from hence to Quebec they gradually increase in altitude, and produce a very striking effect. At Quebec the depth of water in the basin is twenty-eight fathoms, with a tide rising eighteen feet, and at the spring twenty-three to twenty-four. The river is here 1314 yards wide, but the basin is two miles across, and from hence gradually extending till, at the Mingan Settlements, on the Labrador coast, it reaches to above 100 miles in the gulf of the same name. li III- 1 •JiililMrTilf T ffl rq IN NORTH AMERICA. 189 Df any 3 miles Peter, rs. A liles of It, and where is the so in- line of secure 8 been nee to itude, basin rising -three yards s, and it the coast, ulf of The waters of the St. Lawrence begin to be brackish twenty-one miles below Quebec, increasing in saline properties to Kamou- raska, seventy-five miles lower down. Of the two channels formed by the Isle of Orleans, below Quebec, the southern is always used by shipping. Beyond this are several others, as Goose Island, Crane Island, &c. ; these two are under cultivation, and remarkable for the extent and richness of their natural meadow pasturage. The others are uninhabited. Beyond Riviere du Sud, where the stream is eleven miles broad, is the remark- able channel, the Traverse, formed by Isle aux Coudres, the shoal St. Roch, and the English bank, of only 1320 yards broad, although the river swells to thirteen miles : it requires a proper state of the tide to navi- gate it securely. Until lately it was the only one in use; but two others, sufficiently practicable, have been re-opened nearer the middle of the river. The Isle aux Coudres is well cultivated, and below it in succession appear those named Kamouraska, the Pilgrims, Hare Island, and :n 'If •I 1 ? : u h ; I III lli 190 BRITISH DOBIINIONS a cluster well known as a naval rendezvous, called the Brandy Pots ; they are reckoned 103 miles from Quebec. Lower still is Green Island, on which a lighthouse is erected, and light displayed from the 15th of April to the 10th of December ; near Green Island is Red Island ; and a little lower down, the Saguenay pours its tributary waters into the St. Lawrence ; remarkable, even among American rivers, for their depth and volume. The Isle of Bic, noted for its good anchor- age, comes next, then Isle St. Barnabie, and Point aux Peres: here the river being clear, the gulf pilots resign their charge of vessels. Below Point aux Peres are two remarkable mountains, called the Paps of Matane, and nearly opposite, the bold pro- montory of Mont Pelee, where the river, from twenty- five miles, by a sudden northerly trending of the coast, becomes at the Seven Islands increased to seventy-three in breadth: below this, the Island of Anticosti indicates the mouth of the river. It is in length 125 miles, and in breadth 30, containing about 1,530,000 square acres. It has neither bay nor harbour, and the reefs which extend '^■Mmftifi ■'?V/i»'V/v!''.-,««^l!4« IN NORTH AMERICA. 191 lezvous, Bckoned still is puse is 15th of ' Green r down, ers into among volume, anchor- irnabie, )r being large of ire two Paps of Did pro- 3 river, )rtherly 3 Seven readth: idicates ;th 125 ; about ler bay extend from it have been found highly dangerous for vessels. The correct surveys, however, recently taken by Captain E ay field, and the two lighthouses erected upon it, will have diminished them much. Upon it are stations where provisions and other necessaries are deposited for the shipwrecked mariners ; and boards erected on the beach, giving directions to them. The surface of the island is not high, but rises in well defined peaks; it is generally covered with a dwarf growth of fir-trees. The other islands in the lower part of the St. Lawrence are of no importance further than by adding to the diversity and increas- ing the effect of the scenery. Beyond, the gulf extends to above 300 miles in width, having the Island of New- foundland, separated from the coast of Labrador by the Strait of Belle Isle on its north-eastern, and those of Prince Edward's }a>nd Cape Breton, divided by Northumber- land Strait and the Gut of Canso from the provinces ofNew Brunswick and Nova Scotia, at its south-eastern extremity, to the marine topography of which its description there- fore more properly belongs. m I 192 BRITISH DOMINIONS li i. It ! ill i 1.1;: Ml. k it!' Pi iir : 11:1 I.;- E lis 1''' •1 : e .it: w. ill ■lii V ' ■ '■ '- : ■ ■( .' . ■ ; 1 1 1 I 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 i i ! |i The conclusion of the topographical ac- count of the province, by an extended notice of the "great river of Canada" and its parent lakes, affords a fitting opportunity for some mention of the geological features of the great basin in which that mighty system of waters is contained, as well as its physical peculiarities. The prevailing rocks on its northern side are granite, gneiss, &c., which, extending westward to the head waters of the Mississippi and tributaries of the Missouri, encircle Lake Superior, on whose southern shore a narrow strip of sandstone is superincumbent. This Is extended to the Manitoulin Islands, where limestone commences, and appears again at the south-eastern extremity of Georgian Bay ; whence, stretching across the isthmus which separates it from Lake Ontario, by Lake Simcoe and the Trent valley to the Lake of the Thousand Islands, it trends to the south, and impinging upon the great Alleghany coal field, is at length absorbed into the chain of mountains of that name. Below this, sandstone prevails, as far as Montreal, where the original series reappears, and usurps both IN NORTH AMERICA. 193 cal ac- notice parent ►r some of the item of hysical rn side ending sissippi e Lake narrow This where gain at nBay; which Lake ake of south, ghany 3 chain T this, where s both banks of the river throughout its whole extent, although covered, especially on the south bank, by rich alluvial deposit. The triangular district between Lake Huron and Lake Ontario has been already mentioned as for the most part alluvial ; but to the north of it, bounding the table land of Lake Simcoe, and the Trent Lakes on the south, a range of the Silurian series follows a serpentine course to the Niagara, and, deve- loped in the steep escarpment of Queenstown heights, stretches across the river, and form- ing the southern boundary of Lake Ontario, unites with the northern part of the Alle- ghany coal basin. Another series, of a similar character, commencing at the falls of St. Mary, encircles the Lakes Michigan and Huron to the south, and includes the Michi- gan territory situated between them, with its sandstone, carboniferous limestone, and coal, in regular succession, and forms the northern shore of Lake Erie, whose southern boundary is the sandstone of the Alleghany coal series. The stratification at Niagara will be seen on referring to the maps and diagram an- nexed to this chapter, originally adopted by s ■::;^ 194 BRITISH DOMINIONS ' i;!i Mr. Lyell to illustrate his views respectiDg the origin of the falls. ) Without entering into a discussion fo- reign in every respect to the object of this work, it may not be improper to remark, that in developing favourite theories, scientific men are but too liable to overlook the in- ferences to be deduced from facts obvious to the most moderate capacity. The gradual rise of the land from the falls to Queenstown heights, near forty feet, and the existence of an old watercourse 300 feet above the present bed of the river, which Mr. Lyell has himself pointed out, might serve to show that greater powers, at least of water, have been formerly at work, than are now appa- rent, and should make us hesitate before ex- pressing any opinion as to the rapidity with which the now usually admitted recession of the falls may have proceeded, more particularly, as, although calculating it himself at the rate of only one foot per annum, he yet admits that Goat Island has lost several acres in area within the last four years, and that this great waste neither is nor has been a tempo- rary accident. a. IN NORTH AMERICA. 195 JCtiDg .) n fo- f this :, that mtific le in- 3US to •adual stown itence e the Lyell show , have appa- re ex- with L of the ilarly, e rate idmits jres in .t this empo- • Mr, Roy, a resident in the country, was the first to advocate the opinion that this basin had formerly been an enormous inland sea, and although geologists may reject such a conclusion, certain it is, that to do so, they must account for the existence of appear- ances, strongly corroborative of it, and the production of which must have required far more extraordinary exertions of the powers of nature. The presence of marine animals and shells indicate, at least, the former saltness of the waters of the lakes, although accurate ad- measurements can alone supply data suf- ficient to satisfy the impartial observer, as to their entire character. In the absence of this, however, it may not be uninteresting to observe how far later observations appear to confirm Mr. Roy's opinion. When examining the hills to the north of Toronto, which form the watershed between the tributaries of Lakes Ontario and Simcoe, and the southern boundary of the Trent valley, Mr. Lyell observed two ridges ; the first rising from a base 108 feet above Lake Ontario, in a steep slope of twenty to thirty feet, the existence of which, eastward and 196 BRITISH DOMINIONS il ■ i' ll mm' •ami il t i ' » iiiil n ! M u 1 1^ i«; westward, might easily be traced by its dis- tinguishing belt of dark green pine trees ; while a mile and a half inland, another ridge, having its base 208 feet above the lake, rises abruptly from fifty to seventy feet ; and two miles and a half further north, five miles distant from the lake, a third presents a scarcely perceptible terrace, of about ten feet in height. These he was satisfied existed continu- ously, and with an uniformity of level in their base lines. Mr, Roy found correspond*- ing ridges on the northern shores of Lake Erie, and the valley of the Ottawa. The highest of these ridges, in number eleven, is about 680 feet above the lake, and the watershed between it and Lake Simcoe, 762 feet; from whence the descent to that lake is 282 feet, on which the ridges correspond to those on the southern slope.* * Recent barometrical observations give the following elevations : — Above Lake . Ontario. Bond Lake, at the height of land between Lake Ontario and Huron 783 ft. Holland landing, Lake Simcoe .... 498 Penetanguishine 365 See Journal of Royal Geographical Society, 1846, p. 263, et ieq. IN NORTH AMERICA. 197 :s dis- rees ; ridge, rises d two miles nts a n feet itinu- rel in pond*- Lake imber e, and mcoe, ,t lake spond llowing )ve Lake . ntario. 783 ft. 498 365 p. 263, It has been ascertained that similar slopes and ridges exist on the shores of Lake Superior, fifty feet above the level of its waters, which are about 400 feet above those of Lake Ontario ; showing a greater height in the ridges on the shores of that lake than has been observed oh those of Lake Superior. Now the hills which form the watershed to the north of Lake Superior rise 1500 feet above its surface, and are supposed to form a continuous line, dividing the head waters of the rivers falling into the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence, and among them of the Ottawa, from those flowing north- ward into Hudson's Bay, and continuing through Labrador. The highest sources of the rivers falling into Lake Superior have been stated as about 500 feet above its waters, and the high lands to the south rise above 400 feet, so that there appears nothing to prevent this vast basin having once contained the volume of water thus indicated in breadth, if not in height, before drainage or upheaval of the soil had left it in its present state, s3 198 BlUTISU DOMINIONS ::i'^ M '■.5 ■I'' ; is I i::il a': ! lilt ^^li! i I IK though the latter supposition seems quite unnecessary. But why, it may be asked, enter at all upon a subject confessedly so obscure, or seek the origin of those natural features whose gigantic outlines mock the efforts of our puny minds ? Because, by so doing, their greatness and our littleness are best to be perceived, and we shall more readily attain to that modesty which becomes the creature when labouring to obtain an insight into the workings of the Creator ; and those who offer other explanations of the natural features presented in the face of any country than Nature herself seems to indicate, are at least concerned to show that the more apparently simple solution of the prob- lem presents insurmountable difficulties, be- fore they seek the more abstruse ; and that the known period of the physical existence of the world cannot suffice to produce the changes apparent upon its surface, before they speculate upon the number of those ** ages of ages," which existed in foregone eternity, and witnessed the birth of time^ that are required for the purpose. IN NORTH AMERICA. 199 quite at all e, or itures rts of , their to be attain ature into those itural untry licate, t the prob- 3, be- that tence e the lefore those 3gone time^ It is, however, generally admitted that the waters of North America arc gradually di- minishing. Not only is sufficient evidence of this afforded along their shores, but is apparent in themselves, and has become a serious impediment to commerce. In 1845, at Kingston, the water was, at the com- mencement of the frost, three feet below the ordinary level. The general course of the lakes and valleys of North America being north-east or south- west, and the rainy winds having their origin in the latter quarter, it has been suggested that a cycle of north-easterly winds would rob the lakes and rivers of much of their water, which a return of south-westerly winds would restore, and some have stated this to occur at intervals of about seven years; but no one can have examined the newly settled dis- tricts in that country, without having fre- quently observed the channels of small rivers and streams deserted by those waters, whose place will know them no more; and when we consider the aggregate amount these must once have contributed to the contents of the lakes and larger rivers, the gradual diminution of i 200 BRITISH DOMINIONS P\ the waters of the continent may be easily- accounted for. Lake Erie is undoubtedly becoming shallower, insomuch that the har- bour of Kingston is obstructed by sand- banks, of recent formation, and this decrease in its level is supposed by some to be con- sequent on the diminution of the rocks at the Falls of Niagara — indeed Lake Erie has varied five feet, and Ontario as much as eight. The waters of those lakes impregnated with ^''aluminous and calcareous matter," are fresh, bright, and sparkling; those of the St. Lawrence are blue in colour, but of the same character, and contain so large a pro- portion of those ingredients, that vessels in which it is heated become rapidly furred and incrusted. "Ottawa's tide" is, as has been before remarked, brown. The preponderance of lime as an ingredient in the waters of the St. Lawrence affects those newly arrived in the province, not unfrequently to an incon- venient extent. Canada is essentially a blue country, the waters generally of that colour, and the sky *^ intensely blue," insomuch that the atmo- IN NORTH AMERICA. 201 5 easily ibtedly be har- ' sand- ecrease )e con- 3cks at e Erie \ much jgnated aatter," I of the ; of the a pro- sels in red and IS been ierance s of the ived in incon- try, the the sky ; atmo- sphere imparts a faint blue tint to all dis- tant objects, giving a softness and deli- cacy, as well as a depth and brilliancy, to the tone of* the landscape, the effect of which is wonderfully beautiful when the woods assume the rich and varied livery of autumn. The peculiar dryness of the atmosphere in the western districts is a constant theme of admiration, contrasting advantageously with the humidity of the country at the mouth of the St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, &c. The extremes of cold in winter, and heat in summer, ranging from a tropical to an arctic temperature, have not, on this account, so serious an effect on the animal economy as might at first be supposed ; for though exposure to them is frequently serious in its results, yet with ordinary precaution they are not more felt than the moderate changes of European seasons, and it must be remembered that the bounty of Nature has provided in abundance the means of counteracting her own severities. These are no doubt consequent in a great W IP i» - i A ■ : u fe! m lit' HI' Ml If i ii If' ,ii m •w 202 BRITISH DOMINIONS measure, the one on the proximity of the enormous body of water contained in the Great Lakes, and the other on the gradual rise of the land from the Gulf of Mexico to their southern shore, which does not much exceed 600 feet in the whole distance, offering no opposition to the warm winds from the tropics, nor affording any means for their refrigeration. Fogs are not unfrequently of great density on the upper lakes, and the mirage offers to the admiration of the spectator its beautiful illusions : the brilliancy of the heavenly bodies is unrivalled in any climate, both moon and stars shining not only with intense lustre, but apparently increased volume; while the bright gleam of the passing meteors, and coruscations of the Northern Lights, add greatly to the beauty of the nocturnal heavens. The thunder storms rival in violence those of the tropical regions. The climate is undoubtedly healthy in the extreme, the only diseases prevalent being fever and ague, which are generally conse- quent on the proximity of newly cleared Y of the in the gradual Mexico LOt much , offering Tom the for their t density- offers to beautiful leavenly te, both 1 intense volume ; passing Northern of the storms tropical y in the it being y conse- cleared IN NORTH AMERICA. 203 lands, lakes, or swamps. In the former case they might be prevented by securing a good drainage before clearing, an operation that would doubtless be looked upon by backwoodsmen as savouring of insanity, but which would well repay the expense and toil of effecting it, by the security it would afford against diseases which are so apt to become unpleasant accompaniments to a life in the woods. There can be no doubt that the gradual draining of the lands will also effect an amelioration of the intensity both of heat and cold ; of this evidence has already been afforded, not indeed in any reduction of the extremes of temperature, which still range from less than nothing to above one hundred degrees, but in the longer duration of mild seasons. In Canada East, the winter extends from the end of November to the end of April, and during the whole of this period, the " sleighing" season lasts, while in Canada West it continues scarcely two months ; and the same operations may be commenced in the latter in February, which must be de- layed in the former till May. Between these f^ S( 'It! Ull 1 •/'.I -,i IN h : ■1 i 1 1 i '11 1 i I if 1 ' ' I' 1 204 BRITISH DOMINIONS extremes, difference of latitude and situation afford every variety of mean. The extraordinary rapidity with which the warm sun, acting upon a fertile soil, saturated with the melted snow, causes vegetation to tt Spring to life bedecked with merry green,'* especially in the Western districts, must be seen to be conceived ; not unfrequently a fortnight will suffice to clothe the woods and fields with luxuriant verdure, and in one short month the comparatively dreary garb of winter will have been succeeded by the bright and cheering colours in which spring delights so bountifully to apparel the vege- table world. To the freshness of spring the rich weight of summer foliage succeeds with equal rapid- ity, and as the sun gains power and the earth loses every trace of its former bondage, flowers of varied hue, and the many fruits indigenous to the country, burst forth in spontaneous abundance, and the woods and waters that during the reign of the Ice King had in comparative silence done homage to the sombre grandeur of his presence, become IN NORTH AMERICA. 205 situation hich the aturated tlon to een," must be lently a )ods and In one iry garb by the ii spring le vege- 1 weight al rapid- he earth pondage, ly fruits forth in ►ods and ce King mage to , become vocal with sound and instinct with life, affording on every side examples of industry and gratitude, of happiness and contentment : all animated nature, from the merry grass- hopper, busy humming bird, and active but mischievous squirrel, to the more apparently unimportant works of the Creator, labouring in their vocation, looking to Him for the meat which He supplies in due season, and showing forth His praise in the fulfilment of those objects for which He created them, and which, doubtless, although we per- ceive it not, occupy, individually, positions of equal importance in the economy of the universe. Summer, thus matured in its commence- ment, maintains its rule until, after a short struggle, it is again usurped by winter ; the season of autumn being distinguishable only in the varied richness of colour assumed by the vegetable kingdom, a variety of richness that far surpasses anything to be witnessed in the old world, and by the gentle admoni- tions of its preparatory frosts. To the colonist each season brings its labours, its. profits, and its pleasures; of T 206 BRITISH DOMINIONS I'M Pi which latter winter has, perhaps, more than her due share ; the beautiful track formed on the frozen snow offering a most powerful temptation to locomotion, and indeed fre- quently affording the means, unattainable by any other, of visiting friends, who although perhaps among his nearest neighbours, yet live, in more senses than one, indeed afar off. Formerly the winters were altogether de- voted to festivity, and are so even now, to a great extent, by the French "habitants;" among the Saxon races, however, although hospitality and hilarity abound on all sides, and more especially mark this season, yet the labours of clearing the ground and making such preparation for the ensuing spring as the weather will permit are carefully per- formed, to their great advantage when it arrives ; nor does the lively tinkle of the sleigh bells sound less harmonious in their ears from the recollection that the occasion has not been neglected. Beautiful at all seasons, but perhaps most characteristically so when bound in "dark winter's icy chain," the scenery of Canada IN NORTH AMERICA. 207 re than formed )werful ed fre- able by though rs, yet ed afar hier de- ►w, to a tants ; " though 11 sides, yet the making ring as [ly per- kvhen it of the in their occasion ps most dark f^ (C Canada fully satisfies the eye of the spectator ; it may, however, be doubted whether it can be called picturesque, or whether a just idea of it can be attained by the inspection of draw- ings and sketches, except it be in very minute detail ; for the proportion of the elevation of the land to its superficies is so small, and the general features of the country and its productions are on such an extended and magnificent scale, that attempts to depict them fail in their intention, from want of a relative scale in the mind of the beholder. The greatest elevation being only about 1,500 feet, affords a comparative scale of 1 vertical to about 16,000 horizontal ; so that even Niagara, the " thundering water " itself, when estimated by it, sinks into utter insig- nificance ; indeed when taken by itself the same rule applies, and its great extent deprives it of the effect that would otherwise be due to its elevation : in short, to arrive at any esti- mate of the gigantic workings of nature in this country, it is necessary to examine them both separately and collectively, and it will then become apparent that if they have not I j ■;fi ^ I'i " 1 I. I ll i fil ■I 208 BRITISH DOMINIONS been appreciated, it has been, not from defi- ciency in them, but from the impossibility of containing objects so extensive in our limited field of vision. |: ijiijl f^ :' ijlil ^^1 '! U IN NORTH AMERICA. 209 I m defi- )ility of limited CHAPTER VL PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. The history and topography of Canada afford satisfactory evidence of the truth of the posi- tion assumed in the first chapter of this volume, viz. that nothing is requisite to the attainment of the summit of power and pros- perity by this magnificent colony, but the development of its natural resources by in- crease of its population ; and that, although the rapidity with which this may be effected must depend in a great degree on the judg- ment displayed in distribution, it is in the end most certain. With reference to this it has been remarked that particular districts offer greater advan- tages for immediate settlement than others, although scarcely any can be found where the labours of the industrious would not be suffi- ciently rewarded : of these the most worthy of notice appear to be — 1. The head waters of the Ottawa and Trent rivers, as the future channel for deve- t3 ! ;l w, 210 J3RITI8H DOMINIONS 'i { :•= "f i: ' i„ >' ' iijii. lopment of the inland navigation of the pro- vince. The shores of Lake Huron as the advanced stage of its progress westward, and the Saguenay, as the outlet of the dis- trict surrounding it, and the probable future depot for European produce. 2. The territory bordering upon the Maine and New Brunswick boundary, on account of its political importance, consequent on ita intermediate position, as well as that of the State of Vermont and New Hampshire, the fertility of which offers an additional in- ducement. 3. The Gaspe district, for fisheries and coal, and the Ottawa, Trent, and especially the shores of Lake Superior, for minerals and metals. 4. For the pursuits of agriculture the trian- gular district between Lakes Erie and Huron, and the Huron tract of the Canada Company, perhaps afford greater advantages than any, but by no means to the entire exclusion of many other parts ; the fertility of which is only second, if it be at all inferior, to theirs^ And as topography points out the most desirable positions for future location, so does IN NORTU AMERICA. 211 e pro- is the ;ward, le dis- Future Maine 5C0unt on its of tho e, the al in- ss and ecially nerals trian- luron, ipany, n any, ion of lich is theirs^ 1 most ;o does history present to us every encour:.^emeT\t to their occupation : indeed the later history of Canada is but that of successful emigration ; and to the credit of the untiring energies of our race be it recorded, that its success may be dated from the presence of British ingre- dients, whether of forethought in planning, or determination in executing. It is true, indeed, that the French Canadians had extended their settlements over the valley of the St. Lawrence, but latterly, under their influence, the colony seemed rather to retro- grade than progress : while, since it has been a British province, its onward march towards prosperity has been not only steady, but rapid beyond all precedent, even in the headlong impetuosity of the western progress of the United States. The lessons which the past teaches us cannot fail to be profitable for the future ; and among them, perhaps, none is more striking or useful than that to be derived from the comparison of the different methods pursued under the two governments in their attempts to people the province. Estimated by their magnitude, they show their mutual m I 212 BHITISII DOMINIONS n 13 I :' , ^s„ M appreciation of the importance of the colony, and by their results their relative fitness for the purpose. The various efforts of the French have been already detailed, and when, after more than one narrow escape from entire failure, the last and most important was organized, the narrow-minded policy by which it was directed, in the exclusion of all but one class from the emigration, made it fall far short of the effect contemplated; so that, although French settlements were extended from the mouth of the St. Lawrence to that of the Mississippi, yet wanting the true progressive impetus, and like exotics requiring unnatural care and protection, their blossom had little promise, and their untimely fruit withered. After the lapse of a century, so little had the colony realised the anticipations of the home government, that the increase of popu- lation was only as twelve to one ; while under the more enlarged and liberal system pursued since its annexation to the British dominions, it has in sixty years increased in the ratio of twenty-five to one ; a progress which, if it does not remove all objections raised against IN NORTH AMEUICA. 213 olony, es3 for 1 have • more kilurc, inized, it was le class liort of though om the of the ;ressive natural id little bered. ttle had I of the >f popu- e under pursued ninions, ratio of ch, if it against it, must at least be admitted as most satisfac- tory by comparison. Of the various efforts for colonization made since the establishment of British rule, the history of the Canada Company affords, per- haps, the best illustration, as the means pursued have been for the most part similar, not less to those of government than of individuals, as Colonel Talbot and others ;* and more especially as whatever hindrance it may have been to the latter, it has been of important assistance to the former, and there- fore may fairly lay claim to be noticed with it. This Company was established by royal incorporation, on the 19th August, 1826, under the provisions of an act passed to authorize the sale of one moiety of the clergy reserves, with a capital of one million sterling. It immediately entered into extensive en- gagements for the purchase of reserved and other lands in the Upper Province, and shortly became possessed of 2,300,000 acres : of these 1,300,000 are held in dispersed blocks of from 200 to 2,000, 10,000, and in some cases from 12,000 to 14,000 acres; the residue * This officer colonized a large tract of land on the northern shore of Lake Erie. i 214 BIIITISII DOMINIONS km being comprised in one vast tract on the shores of Lake Huron, which was granted in lieu of one moiety of the clergy reserves scat- tered through the townships of the province. In consideration of these extensive grants, the following payments were to be made by the Company, viz. — £ Onthefirstof July, 1827 , , . 20,000 Three following years, each , . 15,000 1831 . . 16,000 1832 ........ . . 17,000 1833 . . 18,000 1834 . . 19,000 1835 . . 20,000 And thereafter the sum of 20,000Z. annually, until sixteen years shall have expired from 1st July, 1826 ; at which time the amount would, consequently, have reached 295,000/. sterling. Of this the Company was authorized to apply 45,000/. in the construction of works of public utility within the Huron tract, and to this large additions have been made from its private resources, so that it may be pre- sumed that no means have been wanting to promote tho desired end ; and we find that district, under its auspices, among the most flourishing in the province, if it be not in advance of others. Of this some estimate may be formed from the account already IN NORTH AMERICA. 215 on the nted in es scat- ovince. grants, ade by My, until 1826 ; at re reached •ized to f works act, and de from be pre- Qting to ind that he most not in 3stimate already given. Of its future prospects it is almost impossible to predict too liberally. From the amount thus received the ex- penses of the civil list of the province have been liquidated, leaving a considerable surplus applicable to local improvement ; the yearly payments, on this account, give some idea of the relative value of money, and are therefore subjoined, in their original form. To the Lieutenant Governor . . 3,000 — Chief Justice 1,500 — Two Puisne Judges . . . 1,800 — Surveyor General .... 300 — Five Executive Council . . 500 — Clerk of Crown and Council 200 — Receiver General .... 300 — Secretary and Registrar 300 — Attorney General .... 300 — Solicitor General .... 100 The success of the Company has enabled it to fulfil its engagements, and the population located on its lands are among the most loyal and prosperous in the province. On the union of the province under Mr. Poulett Thomson, afterwards Lord Syden- ham, the sources of income were consoli- dated, amounting in all to 430,000/. ; being [:ff I : ft ^r-rr^ :|^ '''^' iiiii i : ■a' til 216 BRITISH DOMINIONS now principally derived from the customs duties. They were charged, 1. With the expenses of collection. 2. With interest of public debt at the time of union. 3. With payments to be made to the clergy of the United Churches of England and Ireland, and of the Church of Scotland, and to ministers of other Christian denominations usually paid out of the public revenue before or at the time of passing the act. 4. With the sum of 45,000^. 5. Do. do. 30,000Z. 6. Other charges already made on the public revenue. The sums of 45,000/. and 30,000/. respec- tively, were thus appropriated: — £ 7,000 1,000 1,500 3,600 1,125 Governor Lieutenant do ' UPPER CANADA One Chief Justice . . . Four Puisne Judges at 900Z. Yice Chancellor .... LOWER CANADA One Chief Justice, Quebec . . . 1,500 Three Puisne Judges at 900?. . . 2,700 One Chief Justice Montreal . , . 1,100 Three Puisne Judge, ditto . . . 2,700 One Resident Judge, Three Rivers 900 One Judge, inferior District Gaspe 500 One ditto ditto St. Francis . 500 Pensions to Judges, Salaries of Attorney and Solicitor General 20,875 45,000 IN NORTH AMERICA. 217 ustoms union. y of the md, and listers of paid out e time of revenue. respec- Civil Secretaries, w* li their officers 8,000 Provincial ditto ditto . 3,000 Receiver General ditto . 3,000 Inspector General ditto . 2,000 Executive Council, seven . . . 3,000 Board of Works 2,000 Emigrant Agent 700 Pensions 5,000 Contingencies 3,300 30,000 By the Act of Union the government of Canada was committed to one Legislative Council, and one Assembly ; whose acts, having received the sanction of the Crown, become binding within the province. An Executive Council of seven is appointed to assist the Governor. These form the ad- ministration, and are, at present, irresponsible as far as the colony is concerned. The Legislative Council is summoned by the Governor, by writ under the great seal, and at present consists of thirty-four mem- bers, eighteen from the w^estern, and fourteen from the eastern districts. The Speaker is likewise appointed or removed by him at pleasure ; a prerogative which, as that officer u 11 ifi mmmm 218 BRITISH DOMINIONS 11 VI HI m m. ii'irff m is !■ i Mmy 'Pf iiiiii ' :!' I ; has a casting vote, Is of no little Importance. In It no business can be transacted except ten members be present. The qualifications required for a member are, that he should be of the full age of twenty-one years, and a natural born or legally naturalized subject of the British crown, for which latter an act of the Imperial Parliament or provincial legis- lature is requisite. For It the leading men in talents and education, no less than in station and property, are generally selected. The tenure of office Is for life, but subject to vacation by resignation, by absence without permission of the Crown for two successive sessions, or by taking any oath of allegiance to, or becoming a subject or citizen of, or ac- quiring the rights and immunities of a citizen of any foreign power, or becoming bankrupt, or taking- the benefit of the act for the relief of Insolvent debtors, or becoming a public defaulter, or being convicted of felony or any infamous crime. The legislative assembly forms the popular element in the representation ; to it every county and riding sends one member, as well as the towns of Kingston^ Brockville, IN NORTH AMERICA. 219 irtance. except [cations ould be , and a bject of a act of il legis- no- men than in selected, ibject to without ccessive legiance f, or ac- a citizen ankrupt, :he relief a public y or any ; popular it every mber, as rockville. Hamilton, Cornwall, Niagara, London. By- town, in the western division, and Three Eivers and Sherbrook in the eastern ; while the cities of Montreal, Quebec, and Toronto, send two members each : it numbers eighty- four members, of which each division returns half. The suffrage by which these are elected is nearly universal ; every possessor of a freehold of the annual value of forty shillings, and every one paying 10/. yearly rent, having the privilege of voting. The qualification of members was fixed at the bond fide possession of lands held in fief or roture, as the case may be, of the value of 500/. sterling, over and above all mort- gages or incumbrances affecting the same, and to oe so returned upon his own declara- tion ; but a false declaration is open to the punishment of perjury. The members are elected for four years ; and upon first assem- bling, proceed to the election of a Speaker, who has a casting vote. The presence of twenty members is necessary to the despatch of business. The parliament of the province thus con- stituted must be assembled every year, but 1^ I ! 220 BRITISH DOMINIONS i!:;! itm P ii, the time and place of assembly and duration of session are dependent on the judgment of the Governor. All members must take the oath of allegiance, or make affirmation, if legally permitted to do so, to the same effect. From the establishment of the present Government the English language became the only legal medium of communication, and, consequently, it is used in all laws and official documents. This will doubtless tend much to the amalgamation of the French and English races, as will also other pro- visions made at the same time ; namely. The securing the privileges of the Roman Catholic clergy, by confirming an Act made in their behalf in the reign of George IV. as already mentioned, and of the clergy of the Church of England, by making the con- sent of the Imperial Parliament necessary to the legality of any bill affecting their inter- ests, or those of the ministers of any other denominations, either with respect to their forms of worship, or their temporal rights, privileges, or possessions. To this was added the declaration, that the Crown and Imperial Parliament would not impose any duty or IN NORTH AMERICA. 221 iration lent of ke the ion, if effect. )resent )ecame cation, ws and ss tend BVench jr pro- lamely, Roman t made ^elV. rgy of le con- sary to inter- f other their rights, added nperial iuty or assessment on the colony except for the re- gulation of commerce, and tliat the net pro- duce of such duties should be always applied to the use of the colony in the same manner as taxes authorized by the colonial legisla- ture ; and, moreover, the Crown resigned all its hereditary revenues in the province, ac- cepting in lieu the sums of 45,000/. and 30,000/. already mentioned, as applied to the purposes of the colonial government. It will thus appear, that under British government, not only has colonization been carried on with success, as regards increase of population, but that this has been accom- panied by a corresponding increase of revenue ; — an increase which promises yearly aug- mentation, as the natural resources of the colony become developed. Indeed, nothing but the immediate proximity of so uncertain a neighbour as the United States could neces- sitate or authorize any expense beyond what it could well afford for its own government. The result of the insurrections and pirati- cal incursions of 1837 and 1838, have suffi- ciently proved that these expenses are not incurred except for defensive purposes ; for u 3 i m .j«n>M»i'-n^'Tir-ifrn~^—1f^ Villi h<: 222 BRITISH DOMINIONS MM \\ . whatever scum political agitation may have raised, it is no more to be considered an in- dication of the real character of the people than the waves which break the surface of their lakes are of the tranquillity of the mighty depths below. And, indeed, if we consider that these troubles were caused by the attempt to sub- vert English institutions, — that the leaders in them were either French Canadians, who, educated in their colleges, considered any- thing but "professional" avocations beneatli them, and yet were unable to obtain such a maintenance as they desired, either by law or physic, — and to whom therefore every political change afforded promise of advan- tage, or a few Amencan " sympathizers," and their still fewer disciples in the province, we shall have sufficient proof that it is to the exclusion of the elements which they repre- sented that we must look for the future prosperity of the colony ; and a due consi- deration of the facts of the case, cannot fail to satisfy all that their strength will not be found in exaggerated excitement, but in quietness and confidence. IN NORTH AMERICA. 223 ' have an in- people ace of of the these to sub- leaders s, who, id any- eneath in such by law 5 every advan- :hizers," rovince, s to the Y repre- 5 future LC consi- inot fail il not be but in Still, in contemplating the history of Ca- nada, and the relations which exist between it and the United States, we cannot but esteem them not a little singular ; and if an illustration of them were desired, none per- haps could be found more apt than that afforded by General Brock's monument on Queenstown Heights. Few men, in proportion to the opportu- nities afforded them, have done better service, or have deserved a more lasting memorial, and accordingly a monument was erected, as has been duly related ; — but let us mark the sequel. An American "sympathizer," by name Lett, who may thus, like the incendiary of Ephesus, have preserved his memory to posterity,* under cover of night, attempted, and partially effected its destruction by gun- powder ; and although amenable to the laws of his own country for offences committed against them, and to those of nations for this, still walks at liberty, and glories in his shame. * Herostratus burnt the Temple of Diana for that pur- pose, B.C. 356. 224 BRITISH DOMINIONS I Hi i«l ,4 *■ Let then the tottering monument of the Hero of Canada- for the fame of Brock is enshrined in every heart, as his name is on every tongue — proclaim to all, that under monarchical institutions, on one side of the border, are found a delicacy of offending, and more than paternal mildness towards offenders ; while on the other, a democracy has developed in inverse proportion a morbid sensibility to insult, and an unscrupulous aptitude for aggression, and it is made apparent that in its vocabulary, liberty as much authorizes the attainment of the possessions of others, as the preservation of its own, in either case without reference to the means employed, and that equality is, like the Irishman's reciprocity, all of one side — in short, a return to " The n^ood old rule, the simple plan, That they should take who have the power. And they should keep who can." This is further illustrated by the affair of the Caroline, and the all but universal outcry raised against the violation of American ter- ritory, while the piratical incursions of citi- zens of the United States have been applauded r*i i k:> IN NORTH AMERICA. 225 of the rock is e is on under of the ending, owards locracy morbid apulous 1 made liberty of the ation of jference ality is, of one iwer, affair of 1 outcry [can ter- 3 of citi- )plauded by the majority throughout that country, and the destroyers of public monuments and murderers of peaceful inhabitants of a country in amicable relations with them, stalk at large unexecrated by the people, and unattached by the Government ; while not only is the so called tyrannical monarchy willing to receive the weakness of their executive as an excuse, however insufficient, but to express regret for the necessary violation of their territory by its officers, although the one was the result of disorder requiring coercion, and the other of order commanding our best sympathies. It must, not, however, be forgotten that those aggressions were consequent not so much on any direct evil intention on the part of a few, as the overweening confidence in the merits of democratical institutions so loudly proclaimed by the many, and which, generated in republican vanity, has led to the claim by them of the monopoly of the whole continent of America, to the exclusion of every European power^ and of Great Britain in particular. This fallacy can perhaps only be removed li 1 1 226 BRITISH DOMINIONS ' f •, , filler I I'. ' 'iiSi! ■f-^ 'i by experience and knowledge, and when they shall have been instructed by the uses of adversity, may cease to operate. But as it has already been the cause of aggres- sion, and may again interfere with the peace of the country, it is satisfactory to know that the stake of the loyal in Canada will be preserved. For this there are ample means provided. A recent writer, whose op- portunities of information are most ample, thus enumerates them: 7 companies of artillery, 11 regiments of infantry, 3 troops of pro- vincial cavalry, and a Negro company on the frontier, of 100 men, constitute a regular army of 8,000 effective men, a number equal to that of the United States. The militia of the province muster 140,000, and of these about 5000 are imme- diately effective, as the rest are on any emergency. Of their character it is unne- cessary to speak, or to contrast them with those of the democracy ; it may be sufficient to record the confession of an enemy, that any attempt upon Canada with less than 100,000 men must prove a failure. Moreover, Quebec is impregnable, and its IN NORTH AMERICA. 227 when lie uses . But iicrcrres- B peace know ida will ample lose op- )le5thu8 rtillery, of pro- )any on regular number muster e imme- on any IS unne- lem with sufficient ny, that ess than 3, and its arsenal affords abundance of military stores ; Montreal strongly fortified; Kingston and Toronto secure against surprise ; the frontier sufficiently protected by forts, and the coun- try no longer so thinly populated as to invite aggression, but affording a sufficient number of hearts and arms willinc: and able to chastise it. It must also be remembered that the sys- tematic oppression of the slaves and native Indians by the United States, cries aloud for vengeance, and their ignorance will point out no avenger but themselves, or men like themselves ; and that while the south and west are exposed to their at- tacks, over a long detail of frontier, incapable of protection, the Atlantic sea-board lies open to the aggressions of the British navy, which by sea and river would bear suc- cours and supplies in aid of the loyal Colo- nists. But, in truth, such contest for the empire of the western world cannot be con- templated without shuddering. The spec- tacle would be sad enough if it only exhi- bited the opposition of republican energy and monarchical firmness, and that in 228 BRITISH DOMINIONS II m' ;( M •I'^j M !.m im .ml ri 1 1 brethren ; but the additional elements of destruction afforded by African cruelty and Indian impassibility — and in such an event they would want no stimulants — make it frightful. How, then, is it to be avoided ? Under the divine providence, by the spread of internal communication, and the development of the natural resources of the colony ; by increasing the number and im- portance of the commercial relations between the two countries, and by improving the means of communication with England. And to these, the army now maintained in the colony contributes in no small degree, not only by the money circulated for its support, but by the diffusion of English habits, manners, and modes of thinking, and by the connexions formed, not unfrequently of the most intimate nature, between its members and the inhabitants, affording them a present proof of the truth so often insisted on, that in English influence is only to be found the germs of future prosperity, and putting in the strongest light the anomalous character of those who may still desire to oppose it, or risk the tangible and present IN NORTH AMERICA. 229 nts of ty and event ake It ded ? the ad the of the id im- etween ng the ngland. lined in degree, for its English ng, and quently een its ig them insisted [y to be ity, and omalous esire to present for a prospective, and most probably vision- ary advantage. But there is one most important among the "things that make for peace," which must not be overlooked — viz. the Church : the Established Church of England and Ireland, even in Canada, where that epithet is scarcely appropriate, is essentially loyal and constitutional; and as the flames of anarchy and rebellion were originally lighted by itinerant incendiaries, and stimulated by the breath of schism, so were they in a great measure allayed, if not extinguished, by the efforts of resident clergy, and the effects of Catholic doctrine ; not, indeed, that the more orthodox dissenters were wanting to themselves and their country, or derelict of their duty at the crisis, but that the necessary tendency of sectarianism was then most apparent, when its extreme sec- tions were in immediate and unholy alliance with republican violence, fraud, and faction. The following testimony to the truth of this, as respects the Church, is afforded by a recent writer. "In the various political troubles which X I- !i li 230 BRITISH DOMINIONS 11 li m 11 have arisen, at diiferent times, there was one quality in which the members of the Church were always conspicuous — that of loyalty : wherever they are found, they are as it were a garrison against sedition and rebellion; every holy spire that rises among the dark woods of Canada, stands over a stronghold for the British crown, and every minister who labours in his remote and ill-rewarded calling, is a faithful and zealous subject; the feelings and interests of loyalty are vitally interwoven with the system of the Church; wherever one of those worthy men is esta- blished, he is a centre, and acts as a stimulus for improvement, as far as his means go. " The Church, in the influence of its fixed principles, is a happy barrier against the wild and turbulent enthusiasm of dissent; in many instances, the various sects have joined its fold, to save themselves from their own ex- travagances." Wanting those endowments which procure her so much envy at home, the Church in Canada cannot be accused of being loyal from interest; indeed her history is one of neglect if not injustice, in the mis- IN NORTH AMERICA. 231 management of property originally appro* priated to her use.* Under the old French dominion, the Church of Rome was richly endowed, the Seigneurie of the island of Montreal was alone a noble inheritance. Large funds were appropriated to convents and religious houser,^ which were enlarged by gifts and benefactions on the part of their members, as well as other persons, and a general tithe afforded a certain income. The number and magnitude of their bi-J ungs sufficiently attest this, and we fiiki^ tJie establishment of religious as much an object with the original founders of the colony, as that of civil polity. Now if we contrast this with the results of British rule in spiritual matters, it will appear as unfavourable as that in poli- tical affairs has been advantageous; for although the good King George III. des- tined a reserve of land, in some measure sufficient for the supply of this want, yet the greater part has been diverted from the ori- ^ Vide Extract from Report of Committee of Clergy Reserves, Appendix E. 232 BRITISH DOMINIONS If Ijl •i' ;', 'C ginal intention of that monarch, and instead of going to the support of the Church of England, is applied to the uses of the Kirk of Scotland, and other Christian denominations, in the proportion of seven-twelfths of the whole. This arrangement, while it is, perhaps, to be considered the best that under the cir- cumstances of the case could have been nipde, has left her in a great measure dependent on the individual zeal and liberality of her members. In education the contrast is as great as in religion. It has been already remarked, that the agitations before the troubles of 1837 were generally found among the super- abundant students of the Roman Catholic schools and colleges. In Lower Canada there are twenty schools and colleges for Roman Catholics, but only two Protestant, at Len- noxville and Montreal; the latter, M^Gill college, was endowed by its munificent founder with 10,000/. in money, besides lands and buildings. In Upper Canada there are two colleges, endowed respectively with considerable property in land. As, however, education affects temporal IN NORTH AMERICA. 233 interests, private means for supplying defi- ciencies in the matter are not wanting, at the principal towns on a large scale, and at others, in some proportion to their wants. The Society for the Propagation of the Gos- pel, has been the great support of the Church in Canada ; in the year 1843 alone, upwards of 12,000/. was contributed from its funds. Like everything else in the colony, the progress of the Church is of recent date : in 1786, Dr. Stuart settled at Kingston, in Upper Canada ; in 1792, two more clergymen arrived ; in 1803 the number only amounted to five, and it was not till 1819, that it had reached ten, in 1833, forty-six; while now the clergy of the Church of England, in the diocese of Toronto, muster 120; of these, 49 are wholly or in part supported by the Venerable Society. In the diocese of Quebec, where of course Roman Catholics predominate, the number is only 70. It may be truly said, the harvest is plen- teous, but the labourers are few; the 120 clergy of the upper province labour among 300 churches, and a population increasing with amazing rapidity. In 1685, it amounted x3 ih, ■ s. (L Transport to location 7^207 7 10 Provision 782 19 7 Medical 551 le 3 Contingencies 265 £8,807 3 8 Deduct emigrant's tax 6,729 10 10 Total £2.077 12 10 Comparative Statement of number of Emigrants at the Port of Quebec from the year 1829 inclusive. 5 Years. 1829 to '1833. 5 Yptirs. 1834 to 1838. 5 Years. 1839 to 1843. 1844. 1845. 1846. From England... 43,386 28,624 30,813 7,698 8,833 9,163 Ireland ... 102,264 54,898 74,981 9,993 14,208 21,049 Scotland... 20,143 10,998 16,289 2,234 2,174 1,645 Germany.. • •# • • • • a. • •« 896 122,08^ /*;-. 165,793 94,520 19,925 c« 25,215 32,753 54,655 2,864 57,519 7,000 18,000 Abstract of Trades and Callings of Emigrants arrived at Quebec and Montreal, 1846. Mechanics and tradesmen 715 1 Farmers and farm labourers 4,831 [^ Common labourers 6,733 | "'' ' Servants (male) 87 J Ditto (female) 379 2o2 APPENDIX. Note G, page 236. To the Bight Rev. the Lord Bishop^ and the Reverend the Clergy of the Church of England, [or, of the American Church,"] in the Diocese of I DESIRE herewith to commend to your pastoral care, and brotherly good offices, of the Parish of in the Diocese of who, with his family, is about to settle in and 1 certify that he is a member of the Church of England, and that his children severally named have been baptized. Minister of Diocese of Dated this Copies of this form, which has been provided for the use of those Clergymen who may be prevented from enteritig more particularly into the cases of the families emigrating from their several parishes, maybe had at the Office of the Society for the Propagation OF THE Gospel, 7d, Pull Mall, London. 1 .». — ^T in t-11 R. CLAY, PRINTBR, BREAD STREET HILL. and the 'Jngland, Hocese of pastoral e Diocese , is about i 1 certify rland, and aptized. ;use of those particularly lal parishes, ROPAGATION otutg FOR romotiiig Christian |^«0{»leb||t, BOOKS SUITABLE FOR PRESENTS. The whole of these Works may he had in ornamental bindings, with gilt lodges f at an extra charge of 6d» each. Price. 8. d. ALICE GRAY ; or, the Ministrations of a Child . 2 AMY'S TRIALS; or, a Character misunderstood 2 ANCIENT EGYPT. By P. H. Gosse, Esq. ..20 ASSYRIA. By P. H. Gosse, Esq 8 BINGLEY'S EMINENT VOYAGERS ... 4 BOOK of BOA^S 2 8 BRITISH SETTLEMENTS in INDIA, His- toryof 2 8 BROKEN ARM, The ,..24 BUT ONCE. A Tale 1 6 CHANNEL ISLANDS, Rambles among the . . 3 CHAPTERS on COMMON THINGS by the SEA-SIDE. By Anne Pratt 4 CHEMISTRY of CREATION. By R. Ellis, Esq. . • • .50 '# '■•% .' :y^. . jtti^ti' BOOKS SUITABLE FOR PRESENTS. ..... .j J ^ ' CONTRAST; or, Life at Home and in Service . ' 6 ELDAD the PILGRIM ..30 ERRAND BOY, The. By Charlotte At>ams . 1 f* EVENINGS at the MICROSCOPE. By P. H. GossE, Esq 8 FIRESIDE TALES. First & Second Series each 1 « FLOWERS of the FIELD. By Rev. C. A. Johns C 8 FOREST TREES, 2 Vols. By Rev. C. A. Johns 7 8 GARDENING for CHILDREN. By Rev. C. A. Johns 2 6 HANNAH LAVENDER ; or, Ladyhall .... 18 HISTORY of the JEWS. By P. H. Gosse, Esq. 2 JOHNSONS, The. A Tale 14 LIFE of NELSON 2 8 LIFE of WELLINGTON 2 LET WELL ALONE. A Tale 14 MARGARET ARNOLD. A Tale 2 MARY GROVE 2 8 MARY MORTON and her SISTER .... 1 6 MILITARY LIFE, Tales of 2 4 MOUNTAINS of SCRIPTURE 2 8 NATURAL PHENOMENA : the Rainbow, &c. . 2 NICHOLLS' HELP to READING the BIBLE . 2 8 NO LIE THRIVES. A Tale 18 ^1 BOOKS SUITABLE FOR rRE.SENTS. ft ca. » o 3 1 r I. 8 ch 1 » NS C 8 NS 7 8 A. • 2 6 • 1 8 iSq. , 2 .14 . 2 8 . 2 . I 4 . 2 . 2 8 . 1 6 • . 2 4 • . 2 8 ^' B. . 2 F E. 2 B 1 .18 OCEAN, The. By P. II. Gosse, Esq OLD ARM CHAIR, The. A Retrospective Panorama of Travels by Land and Sea . . . OUR NATIVE SONGSTERS. By Anne Pratt. 73 Coloured Plates ". . . . PARIS, RAMBLES ROUND. By Rev. C. A. Johns PITCAIRN: the Island, the People, and the Pastor. By the Rev. T. B. Murray, M.A. Ninth Edition Price. 8. d. 4 U 3 8 3 2 POISONOUS, NOXIOUS, and SUSPECTED PLANTS. By Anne Pratt. 44 Coloured Plates RAMBLES in the BRITISH ISLES . . . . ROBINSON CRUSOE SCENES in the CAMP and FIELD; being Sketches of the War in the Crimea SCRIPTURE NATURAL HISTORY . . . . SHORT STORIES founded on EUROPEAN HISTORY.— FRANCE, ITALY, SPAIN, SWEDEN ^ctch SISTERS, The. By Mrs. Tomlinson . . STORIES from ROMAN HISTORY . . of the NORSEMEN .... for the NURSERY SKETCHES of RURAL AFFAIRS n I 8 4 2 * 4 2 3 3 1 G 2 3 4 \ IS 1 I ' 'I'll f i ! * t t' \ i •H'i ? i'{ I ' t I I Hi 1 » ;!f I 4 Mi It!; :■ 1 ■! •i^l '^m! BOOKS SUITABLE FOR PRESENTS. Price. SUMMER in the ANTARCTIC REGIONS. With Map ..20 TEMPEST, The; or, an Account of the Nature, Properties, Dangers, and Uses of Wind, in various Parts of the World 2 8 TEXT BOOK of ZOOLOGY. By P. H. Gosse, Esq. 3 4 THREE CRIPPLES, The ........ 1 TWINS, The; or, Home Scenes 18 TWO FIRESIDES, The. A Tale 2 WALTON'S LIVES of HERBERT, HOOKER, SANDERSON, DONNF, and WOOTTON. With Portraits 4 WANDERINGS through the CONSERVATO- RIES at KEW GARDENS 2 8 WILD FLOWERS. By Anne Pratt. 2 Vols. 192 Coloured Plates 160 WINTER in the ARCTIC REGIONS. With Map , 2 YEAR of COUNTRY LIFE; or, Chronicle of the Young Naturalist 2 8 V An Allowance of 25 per Gent, to Members. '1 ' *i DEPOSITORIES : 77, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields ; 4, Royal Exchange ; 16 , Hanover Street, Hanover Square. \ [TS. Price. s, d, INS. ..20 iure, , in ..28 Esq. 3 4 ..10 ..18 ..20 ER, 3N. ' ..40 TO- ..28 ^ols. . . 16 ..20 e of ..28 ers. 1 Exchange ;