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Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est fiimA A partir de I'engle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iliustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 KOAD NtAR NkW \V| STMINSI KR, llklTiSH CoLLMHlA. DotlGI.AS Flk A\Ii (IkiaNTIC Cl OAR. {Ftvm a Sketch fy the Maiquis of Lome.) mmummmsm^^^^ti fjj*u-*f v- r-njt.inhiiTy^d-i 1^ ftWIirli'jiBitrfrrirrt t iivi ' ' i 1/ "i Ti..-ihi Canadian Pictures Drawn with |p»eii an& ipencd. BY THE MAROUIS OF LORNH, K.T. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTKATIONS From Objects and Photographs in the Possession of and Sketches by The Marquis of Lorne, Sydney Hall, Etc. Engraved uy Edward VVhvmper. LONDON : THK RELIGIOrS TRACT SOCIETY, 56, Paternoster Row, and 65, St. Paul's Churchyard. i:i5204 /^^■^'V^-i, ^. LONUu.-: : K. Cuv, Sons, and Taylor, I'kintkhs, llKtAD STKtKT MILL. Tin: KucKY Mountains krom oi r Cami' ox I'.i.iiow Kivi.k. {From II SietiA ly the Mnrguis of Lome.) CONTENTS. Rciail near New NVL'stniinsltr, Hrilisli Cohimbia. Pmiglas Fir ancKiiijantic Cttlar . FrontUpiece. Tlu' K.jcky Mcmntains, from our Camp on Klbow Riv?r page v CHAPTER I. THE DOMINION OP" CANADA. Tnii Sktti.kmint of Canada- Tin- Form of CovERNMi-.N-r— Tin-. Confederation of 1867— The French AND Enc.i.isu Communities— liiK Law of Political Division on the American Continent— The Fektile liii.T OK Canada— Tim; Maritime 1'kovinces— Their Settlement anii Government-Quebec —Ontario -Manitoiia and tiii. Wist /".?" '"'^ Shad Fisliinj; New W'cslniinslcr, lirilisli Columbia Canadian Rolling Slock Illustrations : page 2 Indian Hiintiny; Kquipmcnt Horse in Snow-Shoes The Great Bliiri, Thompson River past- 9 II • «7 VI Contents. CHAPTER II. RELATIONS BETWEEN CANADA AND ENGLAND. Genkral Ignorance of Canada in Enciland— Strength ok Canadian Sentiments— The Takikf Question - IMI'ORTANCE OF KEEPING UI> ERIENDI.V RELATIONS WITH THE COLONIES— TlIK HlCH COMMISSIONER FOR CANAr>A— Feeling in Favour of the Connection wii ii the IIritish Kmi'Ike (lages 1928 C.inadian Farm Snuvvcd-up Cariboo Horns . Illuilrntioiit : pagt 20 Canailian Snow I'loiigh ai Snow-Slioe Club in Indian File 36 CHAPTER HI. THE CLIMATE OF CANADA. Comparison between the English amj Canadian Climates-Canadian Winter— Fuel-Clim\tf of British Columbia— Emigration-Its Facilities and Advantages fages 29-38 Illustrations : Children Tobogganing pa^e^o Vineyard in Canada . . *a,.^ ,. ^°e Sledge 3, ,^„ ,„,,;,„ (.^„,|, „„ ^,,^ ,,,^i^^ . ' . 36 On the Homalhco Kivcr, British Columbia ■)„„, 3- CHAPTER IV. THE MARITIME PROVINCES. The Bay of Findv— Annapolis- Louisbikg— Shipbuilding in Nova Scoiia-Nkw Brunswu k— The Cascapldia— rRiNCK Edwakd's Island— The Fishekies— Newfoundland /"a'" 39-62 Canadian Forest I'alli in Winter Cape Blomidon Halifax The " Grafton '' with TcmiKuary Kuddcr The Moose .... llhutnitions : P"S'¥> -^ View on the Hay of Fundy . . . . 41 Cascapedia Cottage 43 A S.-ilnion River, New B'....3wick , 46 Canadi.in Flowers 47 Going to Church in Canada during a Flood The " .Sardinian " in the Ice off Newfoundland . fiigc 6 1 S2 ■ 54 55 • sy Contents. VII CHAPTER V. ONTARIO. OSTARIO-NlAOARA-OTTAWA-KlNOSTON-TlIK TircUSANI. Isl.ANI.S-ToRONTO-Ml.SS Rvk's IIoME-RELIOtON IN THE I'RDVINCE- Till-. Fair at ToRONro-O.NTARIA.N AliRICHl.TIIRK-Kool) A Siiii<>TiN(! -I'liK Heaver— Wkstern ( )ntakh) Fri'it Supplv— Duck The Tlunisand Islands I'ai'lianient lliiilclin);s, Ditawa Ningnrii l.iimhcr riles, Oiiawa I.umlicrers at Work Kidcau Falls . . , , Sir Joliii A. Macdonald Running the I.achine Rapids Illustralipns : The Wapiti /fliv64 Indian I'ilnt on the St. Lawrence . 65 Miss Rye's Home as it was ... . f>7 Miss Rye's Home as it is . 70 (iirls as Taken ofl" the Streets . 7^ After Eleven Years in the Home . 74 Cedar Il.iy, near Ottawa • 75 A Heaver Village gj 76 (lardiner Canal fagt 96 M"*- 77 7« • 79 80 . 80 85 95 CHAPTER VI. QUEBEC. Q.^KHKC KROM TM,.. II.ar.H.S ,..• A HK AH AM-M„M MuKEN,;, FaUS -CAP. URE OK (JUEHEC IN I759-EAR.V H..M..H.S.S- ,„.: lKon,.,„S I.MMANS-T.tE FRENC, CANAX.ANS -T„K l.AKE St. Jo„N I.,.STR,C T-ioR.CU, - T.-KK A,„.„r ...KK Sr. J..„^ -THE SA.;n.:XAV-T,.E Gut.K ok St. I,AWRE.NCE-T..E I-ORCt-.-tNE-MoNTRKAE -IHE M,(.M.>, lMVEKSIIV_|„, W.NIKK CAKM VAI.-ICK HARVESTINT.-I.ACRO.SSE-THE VICTORIA Hkiix'.e Ice Cutting on the St. Lawrence nN CRu;i,Tit.H -Indian Customs — Iiik Ciirishan Indian /.li'ii 15117^ Illuslradtiiis : liLickfect Imliaiis Cro 'unR .1 Kivcr . . /-igt IJl Ulackfont Cinssing. Indian I'owwuw with Governor- An Indian "f llio North-West 153 (icniTal pnicceilinij in the I'hiin . /''iv l6j I'ljly CustonKMs 157 (Jroiip nt the I'owwow 163 A View on the KIbow Kiver 159 An Imlian Siniaw with I'apoosc .... 168 Indian lluiial on the Plains .... /i/i,v 170 C.uihoo Horns 172 CHAPTER IX. THE NEW TERRITORIES. Tin; Sti-;rn-\vhkki. Sti-amik -Trinck Ai.iiirt— Cari.iton— Tort ICdmonton- Tm-; I'i.At:K Kivkr— .\thaiiasca - I'liK Hki.i, I''arm — Tiir. Sv>ti;m oi-' Land .Vt'i'RorRiATioN in tiik Noriii-\Vi-.mT -Comtarativk I'ro- DICTION ur TIIK NdK I ll-\Vl SI AND olilKR I'AR IN -Al.llKRTA -IllMI- \I.(> 1 1 1 KliS -I-"lKST VllW UV TllK koCKY MmiNTAINS /,!,« I7J-I9-2 Jlliislialioin : Indi.an Ureases, Weapon-;, and < Mnanunls . /i;,y 174 HulValo Iluiilinj; /'a'<' iSl A North Siiskatchewan Slennur . • '75 Slalhint; .\nteIo|.es . . . 188 l-'cirt I'.dninnton . 179 Cliief Mminlain 19I CHAPTER X. BRITISH COLUMBIA. .•\ckoss THE RccKiLS— The Goi.t) Colktry— The Chinfse in Uritisii Coli'Muia- Kami ktk— Tin. CahaiiE Mountains— Salmon KisiitRits— British Coi.umhian Indians— Vancouvik's Im and- Nanaimo— Victoria — lisfji'iMAULT-WAPni— Seal Hunting Concludini; Summary /at;is 193-222 Ii/us/ratii'its : View from Esciuiinault /iv i6i . . i6j 168 188 191 . J04 206 . 209 I l^;'*^-??^?^ " "'-nvw*"" •rftt, ■#^ THE DOMINION OF CANADA. ' f lake % T 7R THE II-. ^ i Fact(r\- OMiNioN OF cana: aJrEDUCTICN of the map prepared & ISSUED UNDER THE 0IRE| OF THE MINISTER OF RAILVfAYS & CANALS (l88Z) ■o uo Engliah Miles 4^ fc*»»«« wt/ Bo. ^: r^_r- — — Tmi^wi Ell' i' '^BflT" '-'l^lm? * ^v\ T E R B^ 1^ TtTR^ B XAi I..S!.lo»a U^l \e ^^ 'V >v^" r.ibia*'' ^::t> .111.""'] ' Minm-Bi)!!??! j[£»i^l -J- J^IU (;rv«-n biyj -/ l^ XV W: v.. \Q (■ \ Jtfi [lOiioititili* W«»Kt tifjiii (JitHniwif'li MO H '. "^ cl"-, J nw'0' ^■■^' .J5«^anau.i' ^ '?^ T tolSl THE DOMINION OF CA A REDUCTICN OF THE MAP PREPARED & ISSUED UNDt OF THE MINISTER OF RAILWAYS fc CANAL ^- I So. B ^ iisw i^ ^\^ r , '■ ) Kfeh-nriihii IdhndnS I Mhinea|M>lil Kobi ia.sl'<':^^ m Umdituiti- West tL'oiu (ii'<>n»»i'i>_ ^•"_ M o«%'?.'*i t > ;• . iN(»r'"pu. "^ -i-i-* h A Ni:w \Vi;stminsti;r, Hkiiish Columbia. /•>,'/« a/hotograJ.h in llu fossnsion of the Man/„h o/I.onu:) CHAPTER I. The Dominion of Canada. -Man,to..a an,, ■vnv. ^^,^^^;''"^ "^"^""^'^'-''-'"'^■R •'"-TiLEMENr and Govkrnment-Quebec-Ontar.o -T-HE name "Dominion " vyas first used in the New World to designate Queen diincuthtr r^"^; <^alled after her. Virginia; and the Americans now Ne ' n ''';An'""u ?/' ^'•'^^'"'■^ '^>'^^"'"g ^he British possessions. "The New Dommion. When the French began to desert their colonists from Br ttany! who hacl founded the early settlements in Canada. Voltaire, the great sneere' at all thmgs human and d.vme, with an ignorance which, to give him justice he rarely showed said that the French territory in Canada was^ot worth fighdng h^d \IT ^^^,S^°^'"S: accounts of the journeys of Cartier and of Champlain. ltd of whTch he '" r ^"''^ '^' S^"^"' ^"-^"^^"^^ -'^ ^^-^-^- ^hat the and of which he spoke so disparagingly was destined to maintain a population hof. h' r -'r,""". ^""'^^' '^^-^"'^ have directed his satire ^agans" devoted r T\^^^'^y f ^>- ^--"- -hich these first discoverers and^these devoted soldiers knew to be of such value that they were willing to give their lives, If only France might become possessed of it. The French were earliest 1! 2 Canadian Picturk.s. 'i I 1. in the field, and for many years a bitter warfare raged between them and the Engh'sh, who had landed in New England. Each nation dreamed of the conquest of the whole continent, and King Louis's officers, dominant on the St. Lawrence, and with a settlement at the mouth of the Mississippi, thought that by military posts along the Northern Lakes, and down the valley of the Missouri, they could ring the English round, and ultimately expel them. But the genius of their people was not for colonization. At the time of the conclusion of the war in 1760 they had but 60,000 souls in Canada, and that number became as nothing compared with the English population to the south of them. The Indians were, it is true, usually on the side of the French, but beyond embittering the war by the introduction of savage practices, they could do little. Had not other ambitions led the French court to neglect the interests of their army in Canada, our conquest of " New France " would have been long postponed. There were some good French regiments, and some strong places, but these were miserably provided with material of war. Louisburg, where great fortifications had been erected, soon fell, and Quebec followed. It is only near the Newfoundland coast that France has now any soil on which she may hoist her flag, and this consists of two little islands, called Miquelon and St. Pierre. The descendants of the leaders and of their followers who planted the golden lilies of the white banner of the Bourbons on the shores of the Gulf of the St. Lawrence are now the contented, free and loyal citizens of the British Empire. Numerous and prosperous, they enjoy the ancient rights guaranteed to them by treaty, in the exercise of their own laws, the stability of their own institutions, and the use of their own language. So numerous have they become, that many a county in New England, where of old the Puritans held sway. Is now peopled by them, and they find no rival along the shores of the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal. They are filling up the country to the north ; and as they are content to live on soils which are not sufficiently rich to attract other settlers, they are certain to maintain their customs, their religion, and their tongue in these regions, which form the summer gateways of the Dominion. Elsewhere the traveller will hear English. And what is the form of the government under which these races have mingled, and constituted a new nation ? First, let us look back a little way. It win be sufficient to remember that although the American colonies united together under the pressure of the necessity of offering combined resistance to the old and ill-advised dictation of the mother country, the colonies in Canada only began their existence at the time of the American Revolution. " Go to Halifax! "cried the Revolutionists in derision to the men who as Tories were known to remain faithful to the British Crown. And they w-ent to Halifax, and to other places, then mere wildernesses. They went north to the River St. John, in New Brunswick. They went across Lake Ontario, and landed at " muddy little York," now the great city of Toronto. They went, In poverty and wretched- ness, away into the forest, and to them came others, until eighty years had 111 The CoNKEDEUATroN OK 1867. - passed away, and then their descendants were seen to have thriving cities towns, and villages, and to have so cleared away the woods that men were th.ck upon the land IJut all were still in separate communities. Upper and Lower Canada, as the regions along the upper and the lower course of the St. Lawrence were called, were joined under one governor, but with separate legislatures ; and by the sea Nova Scotia and New Brunswick had each its own ruler ; wh. e Prmce Edward Island and Newfoundland were tracts barren of life and little known. Difficulties between the French and English popu- ation culm.nated in an insurrection in 1857 and 1838, and led to the vL't of Lord Durham, appointed by the British Government to inquire into the c^^ses of the troubles. Although Lord Durham's conduct, duHng his short term of service was not approved by his employers, the report he drew up led o the grant of responsible government to the colonies. As each of these increased in the number of the inhabitants, the desire amona them for a complete system of railway communication, and for a union which'' mghT render to ct U': ItSir'^f f^'^Tr ^'^'^''"^ ^^^^^^" them, ana enable them to carry out public works designed for the benefit of all. arose and bore fruit. The confederation entered into in 1867 by alh except Newfoundland gave ^po^:: 'TCZT '" TT' ""''' ^hose Matters w'hich were of Ifonal m ortance. fhe defence of the country, the revenue arising from customs and excise, the regulation of the post, of navigation, of patents and of Tl things affecting any two of the several Provinces of the Union were ^o be placed in charge of the federal power. A Senate, composed of men nominated by the Government, and a House of Commons elected on the basisTf the La^h pro: nTe t^:! lu "^' ^°^^"^' ^^'^ ^ ^^^'^'^^ ^ ^" vitalquestions i^„- 1 . "-diic 01 property, and on education; and n each a local wSwUhThe ""'"'""'=''■ /''-S-ernors.huherto appointed by'he Crow, Canadian MMs.r"'Tr ""= Governor-General, to be appointed by .Ire sSesmen ' "°* °' *' '^"''"'' Government and of Canadian find an^herp", ""' ""r" " "'"'^'^'^^^^f"' one. It would be difficult now to unci anywhere a man of any mark who would vote for its repeal Each venr but e™h so vtT ,L" ^T/ °''^"'; *' *'■'='= »«""« "''"'■ '^'^^ ^ different, and va Ly-of Iwd, tS ''' "^ "«'"" "' <"""'■ *<= ^=Sion of mountai:; are respectivel J iLT , P'-°"n<:es, the central territories, and British Columbia be ofS' :X« ::• i "Th'r; '=""■ '° *= °*=^' ^"^ «='• '^ fe" » the American forts? n„ ■ " '' '=d<^'-.-">o- differs in many respects from i" CanadHvowlcS /ov^Ifir" '° '"'"''"^' '"'^^' °'' "^ ""^^ "^ -"=« Canadian Picturks. The jealousy and friction once existing between the French and English speaking sections of the community are fast passing away. This has been one of the results of the union. When Upper and Lower Canada stood alone, the one representing the I"'nglish and the other the I'Veuch race, the differences between the two races became accentuated when political questions, characteristic of the imperfect constitutional development of those days, occurred. The French element in the maritime provinces has alw.iys been respected by the majority consisting of other races, but it has never been dominant, as was and is the case in Lower Canada. There is no reason why this element should not in its own province remain dominant. The only race which increases as fast as the French is the Irish. With these, who are their co-religionists, there is no very cordial Canadian Koi.i.im; Stock. sympathy; but it is to be hoped that, just as the soldiers of Wolfe's Highland Regiment, when settled in the country, mixed with the Habitans until they became alike except in name, so will the Irish blend in harmony with their French-speaking neighbours. The Celt and the descendant of the Breton have this in common, namely, the power of living contentedly on comparatively poor land. Where an Englishman or a German will pass on, seeking a more gracious soil, they will settle, found comfortable villages, and, under the guidance of their priest, and the shadow of the church, happily cultivate their oats, buck- wheat, and potatoes, bringing up large families, who will yet further extend the area of cultivation to the northward. .it CiKowrri OF tiik NATioNAt, Idica in Canada, 7 The projrress of the national Idea, which has been the result of the imion advocated ch.et y f„r reasons of in,nie ';! o,'. approaching the mountains we hear that wheat flourishes at points removed ^00 miles from the American border. There is ^ Nova Scotia. q enouvrh land in this prairie world of Canada to su,)pl> ,nor., wheat than is now Krown m all the United States. Thus w see that the L)on,inion is likely to he no mere fnnK^«;ot settlements. Imt that almost thruUKhout its vast lenjrth of 3.COO miles there is nxMii for numbers of men to own and cultivate a country which IS favourable to our race, stroHi^r in its natural features for defence and capable of j,rivin;r «, its sons that love of home which is tl... birth uul life of l.atnotism. There is no fear that the country is too poor or too small to support a nation. I believe that its people will never show themselves lackinij '" '^P'rit Indian IIiiniinc; Kqi'ii'mknt. U-ivm llu- L\.ll,;li,n, 0/ !/„■ Mar,,,,!, o'' /..;»,■.) Let US see what the statistics tell us as to the material resources in area, and sho Ttim tl T '^"'" "''^'^ "' them-remembering always within how short a time the results enumerated have been accomplished. it w^ould be best tor the interests of the smaller maritime provinces, were they to be under one government legislating for •' Acadia "-such was the old name o the greater portion of these territories. As yet the wav o accomplish this has not been found. Taking Nova Scotia first it wHI be een ^ TO Canadian Pictures. S! 5; by the m ip to consist cf the great triangular island of C;ipe Breon, and a long-shaped piece of '.he mainland connected with New I3n"^P" • • the north by a narrow isthrnvs about eleven miles in width. 1 v 22,000 square miles of surface, almost the whole of which was in o.> ^ •: \, joa covered. Gold mining has been carried on with varying success along the Atlantic coast, and near Yarmouth this enterprise has paid fairly well. A range of picturesque hills runs through the mainland portion of the provmce, and has on each side of it a band of very good land The harbours are excellent, and only occasionally obstructed by <"ogs. The approach to the ports from the Atlantic is by no means difnciilt. If fog prevents a clear view, vessels have only co keep clear of Sable Island — a heap of sand in the ocean which occupies as regards Halifax much the position of Heligoland oft the Elbe. Soundings will tell the mariner where his vessel is, and if the weather be " dirty " there is plenty of sea-room to the ^outh, and the captain may stand away from shore until the gale abates. The inland fresh waters are computed to cover 3,000 square miles, so that there is much variety in the scenery, where the trees stand reflected in the calm lakes, the home of number- less trout, and the streams pour down in white rapids from the moose-haunted forests of the liills to the pleasant bays along the shore. In Cape Breton Island there are many Scottish settlers on the shores of the fifty-mile-long Bras D'or Lake. But where are there not " many Scots " throughout our Colonial empire ! In the county of Antigonish there are at least 3,000 of the name of Mac Donald. The chief county town lies pleasantly situated in a well-cultivated valley and near the strait dividing Cape Breton from the mainland. A great stone-built church, with the words " House of God " written in golden Gaelic letters on it, is filled each Sunday by a numerous Roman Catholic congregation. The Church of Rome has considerably over 100,000 adherents in the province, and the Anglicans have over one half that number. The Presby- terians are as numerous as the Roman Catholics ; and other Protestant bodies claim the remainder of the population, which, counting all heads in Nova Scotia, amounts to about 400,000. There are no Jews. Cabot was the first visitor from Europe, in 1497 ; and De Mont and the Jesuits settled in 1604 at Port Royal and other places, but were expelled by the English colonists who came from Virginia. It is well known how James the First desired to found a Scots colony here, like his Scots colony in the north of Ireland, but the people he sent were discouraged at finding the coasts already occupied. Charles the First tried to induce his subjects to send settlers to the country by the grant of the title of Baronet of Nova Scotia and an allot- ment of land, and Cromwell took formal possession for a time ; but a cessiori to F' ranee was made by the Treaty of Breda, and Nova Scotia remained under the P>ench crown until 17 13 Although there has been a considerable movement of its people to the Canadian western country and to the United States, the population steadily increases, .-ind the coal mines are worked bv an cver-crowinsr Nova Scot/a. II e<;on, and a "•' "-■> the , •: \. joa • s along- the Y well. A le province, arbours are •ach to the nts a clear sand in the :ligoland oft and if the captain may waters are riety in the of number- ose-haunted 'eton Island I Bras D'or iiial empire ! Viae Donald. [ valley and : stone-built c letters on I. ents in the he Presby- jtant bodies Jova Scotia, ant and the elled by the ' James the n the north asts already I settlers to id an allot- a cessiori to d under the t movement States, the I'er-QfrowinLi- number of mmers. who find remunerative employment at all times of the year I here are immense deposits of gypsum at several places. The plaster of Paris made from these supplies all Canada with this article. The gypsum quarries look hke the marble quarnes oi Carrara, so pure and white is diemateHal which in broken cl.ft-s nses at some points along the coast to a height of fifty feet In 1880 the miports amounted to a value of over seven millions of dollars the exports to seven and a half millions. There are 497 miles of railway. One Ime runs along the whole of the south side of the Bay of Fundy, with the exception of a small break in the bay at Dfgby, and to the east reaches the btraits of Canso The Intercolonial has 138 miles of rail in Nova Scotia and a railway takes the coal of Sydney in Cape Breton to Louisburg, and the line wiiJ be continued so as to connect with the mainland at the Straits of Can^^o Horse in Snow Shoes. Cove™lr:r?;™;ToTclr'r''' *-\°ffi-'-« ^^he Don,i„,-o„ persuaded ,oahoI,sh,herclves"',f"7; "'7'>-\(who have been nearly chamber only,; and an a«emhK f ,1 '"'^^''''^ ''=S"^''><"'-'= '<> ™„sist of one jears, forn, ,hV ,ovtnme tL!.' "^'">-"=W'" ™""'ers, elected every four error, and one of v™d„ irahv I " ' ^'T""i '"P'""" '"""• ^ ™»" "' edncation is provid.-d for hvl , T '^ .""''""' '^'^°'"'- ''''"= secondary .""del school, and l„,ost 'e,erv 1 " ""^"T- '^'""'^ '' " "<'™«l ^"^ - traminj;. ' "''>' ''cnom.natmn has its college for nniversity C 2 ' ! 12 Canadian Pictures. In New Brunswick a similar government machinery is provided, there being nine members in the executive council, eighteen in the legislative council, who are appointed for life, and forty-one in the popular branch of the legislature. In both provinces the common schools are free to all, and are supported by the provincial revenue, the rates being laid on all property. The people number about 300.000— a small population, considering the great size of New Brunswick, for there are 27,322 square miles within its borders. It has the Intercolonial line of railway traversing its eastern section from south to north. Another line connects it with the St. John Valley, and to the west it is in communication with New England. Montreal will soon be only 430 miles distant from St. John by rail, and Quebec will be only 388 miles from this sea-port, shortening the distance, as compared with the Intercolonial, by 200 miles. Ships, sawn lumber, cotton and woollen goods, leather, cheap furniture, paper and iron manufactures of all descriptions, are the staple productions ; and of raw material there is, as with the sister province, abundance of fish, timber, coal, iron, and gypsum. The extent of the coal-fields cannot be compared with those of Nova Scotia, but it has some veins wliich have proved most valuable, notably the beautiful " albertite." a very hard, glossy, and perfectly clean mineral, of which the supply has, alas, greatly decreased. As the treasure of other species of coal is so near and practically inexhaustible, New Brunswickers need not deplore the exhaustion of one kind, although unique and precious. The imports in general amounted in 1880 to 84.093.135, and exports to $5,863,955. The French were here again the first white men to land with the intention of founding a colony. The date of landing was 1639. When Quebec fell, the country was made over to us. Miramichi, upon the eastern side, was setded by Scots in 1764. The third province into which the ancient Acadia has been carved is Prince Edward s Island, with an area of 2, 134 square miles, formerly covered with wood, although the keen gales of the Atlantic make themselves everywhere felt. Here again we find the free-school system in force, and the relative numbers of the various religious bodies nearly that of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, the Roman Catholics heading ^he list. With the lieutenant-governor are associated five members of an executive council and twenty-two deputies in the legislative assembly. There is telegraphic communication by submarine cable. Cabot discovered the island, but the French claimed the discovery as due to Verazino ; and one of their naval ofiicers received it as a grant in 1663. Taken by the English in 1755, it was given back by the Treaty of Aix-la- Chapelle, and finally ceded to Britain in 1758. Ten years later it "received a government," although it is said at that time to have had only 150 families on its soil. To pass in our statistical review to the larger provinces, Quebec has 193,355 square miles, of which perhaps one half are habitable, and most of the remainder is valuable for minerals, tiinhcr, or fisheries. The threat laurentian rantre of ife range Quebec. 13 vided, there legislative ranch of the all, and are party. The jreat size of irs. It has im south to le west it is ly 430 miles ;s from this nial, by 200 ap furniture, ions ; and of timber, coal, 1 with those ible, notably mineral, of ther species rs need not rhe imports 5- _ IP intention Quebec fell, n side, was ed is Prince I with wood, felt. Here bers of the inswick, the s associated ies in the arine cable, ery as due It in 1663. of Aix-la- : " received 50 families ''^''s 193,355 i remainder m range of hills runs through it from east to west, reaching in Mount Logan, to the north of the Bay of Chaleurs, the greatest elevation in a conical mass— over 4,000 feet in height. Earthquakes of a mild type have not been infrequent. At Murray Bay, a place on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, I was shown a house which had been twice much shaken and partially destroyed by earthquake shocks, one havmg occurred on the i8th of August, while the second shock came on the same date, exactly ten years later. A marble chimney-piece broken across showed the strain to which the walls had been put. It is curious to note how the sea has retired from these regions in comparatively recent times The shells and marine fauna now inhabiting the gulf are found in the clays which me the banks and the bottoms of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers When the rivers are low in the " fall," or autumn, any one walking by the side ot the stream may pick up numerous nodules and rounded or elongated pieces of hardened clay. If these be carefully broken asunder, in their interior will be found the perfectly preserved form of the capelin, a fish now aboundino- in the sea-water 500 miles away. I have even found the feathers of sea-bTrds lookmg as though they had been but lately shed ; and the telina, a little shell-fish, together with several other species, and even the bones of the seal have again seen the day when the hammer laid open these curious mummy cases of the creatures which inhabited the ocean when it swept over all the surface now covered by land or river or great inland lake. Amongst the fossils we must take care not to reckon the legislative councils of one province. Quebec has a well-preserved set of very perfect specimens of the genus Senator in her 27 councillors. The executive council 'Soo iXf T'-f JT''^'"', ''''"^^^^' '5- There are at present about 1.800 miles of rail : the Intercolonial, coming over the hills of New Brunswick descends on the south side of the St. Lawrence, and follows the stream hi connection with the ine crossing to the north shore at Montreal, by the Victoria Bridge. Of the railway to Lake St. John, to the north of Quebec City mo e wi 1 be said hereafter. The other chief lines run to the south, connecting with he American system. A branch of the Intercolonial will form a channel for th. h ghway to a good and picturesque country, extending all the way to Gasi/e the Atlantic voyagers as the first part of the mainland shore seen after roundinn cities gives the right to vote. '« Reeve," and ''^ie^oity reev^ a"^^ the titles given to the township chief elected officers; the.e met as a count! h^'voinrir'^^'^^^^'^''-^''^^^^'^"-" ^-•-^•'^ibe.;otedthaTt:i lecto wl ich p"v" t H "' ""'""' '"^ '^'' '' " "°^ '^' ^^"^'^^'^^ '^^'^ ^he rate ^a ned^bv h "'''"""^ ''P'"'"'" ^" ^'^^'"^^ '^ ^V Fallot, and the secrecy .gained by the system is not far from complete. The steps and varie^v /f axes and T) ^ '''^'''''"'' ''"' '°^"''^'P "'' " ""'""■ ^^^^^^ '^-''' P^^LZl eo^rlen ■ ''' '"'"'°"' ^^P^-'^P'^ ''^'' ^'^'^ ^his very perfect municipal fux.r*"!" ^'^'^ ^°"^^^'^ ^he opinion that a local senate is an extravaZn eitrhtv ei IV ; ?^ ^' ^''^y ^'^ ^°"^^"^ ^^'^h an assembly composed of ™tas'r^;rf " elected every four years, while the lieutenant \\^tU I ^''^^^"^'ve council, five in number, to assist him. very difficiSeed ZT"' U "-"bers it may here be noticed that it would be y .mcult indeed to get a house together, were the members not indemnified ! \r 16 Canadian Pictukks. If I'M for serving. They have to leave their work, and travel in many cases hundreds of miles ; and men whom the country would desire as its best representatives could not attend, in the absence of payment, which is not so much remuneration for service as partial compensation for loss or interruption of their usual avocation. All schools are quite free, a minister of education being appointed by the provincial government to look after them. Each township is divided into school sections, with a board of trustees. The government inspectors never have charge of more than 1 20, or of less than 50 schools, and their pay comes partly from the province and partly from the local council. The Roman Catholics may, if they desire it, have separate schools, and are, in such cases where there may be a sufficient number of children for whom separate instruction is required, exempt from the general school rate, and have a separate government grant. There are excellent higher schools, the Upper Canada College at Toronto being especially noteworthy where nearly all are excellent. The system is to accord teachers their certificates through the agency of a central board at the provincial capital, where first-class certificates are granted. Each of the counties has its local board of examiners for the distribution of the second- and third-class certificates. There are no less than seventeen Protestant universities and colleges, and three Roman Catholic. Here the Protestants are greatly in the majority, there being about 480,000 Methodists, 370,000 Presbyterians, 340,000 Anglicans, and about 290,000 Roman Catholics, the remainder consisting of other creeds. The small number of Jews in Canada is remarkable, and is attributed to the large influence of Scots ! Exports in i88o amounted to over ^28,030,000. Imports in the same year to about the same sum. As with all the provinces, there is a supreme court, whose decisions are subject to the Dominion supreme court, which sits at Ottawa. The superficial area is vast, but reckoning only that of the portions which are certainly habitable, 40,000 square miles out of 108,000 may be considered good. The railway system, already constituting a most intricate network of lines, is being constantly extended. There are now about 4,000 miles of track laid. The great arterial line of the (irand Trunk goes from Montreal by Kingston to Sarnia, where it crosses into the States. The Canadian Pacific, running from Montreal, crosses at the city of Ottawa from the province of Quebec into Ontario, and runs up the Ottawa River to Lake Nipissing, and thence has a branch to Sault St. Marie, and extends its main line along Lake Superior. Between these highways are many others, so that there is little of the country left which is not within reach of railway communication. Of Manitoba we must speak more generally and further on in this book. Its growth is so rapid that there is little use in specifying its condition to-day, for to-morrow the change will have been so great that the statistics would be already stale. It has an area of about 100,000 square miles. The next two divisions, which have been named Assiniboia and Saskatchewan, have 90,000 square miles many cases as its best ;h is not so terruption of cation being 1 township is government schools, and ocal council. 3, and are, in lom separate 'e a separate )per Canada ire excellent. agency of a are granted. stribution of n seventeen Here the Methodists, an Catholics, vs in Canada le same year The Govkrnmknt of the Dominion. 17 each, and nearly all is fair land. Alberta has 100,000 square miles, and Athabasca 120,000, while Hritish Columbia has 200,000; but a great deal of this is good only for wood or minerals, whereas the names previously mentioned stand for or .■ .'\. ■ i ' ■ The Great Ulukf, Thomi'sun Kivkr. (Fnm a photogra/ih in the possession of the Marquis of Lome.) territories of great natural fertility of soil. Their surfaces too are not interrupted by great lakes westward of Winnipeg and Manitoba, and are almost everywhere available for habitation. It remains to us to close this chapter, which is necessarily a tedious one by a general statement of the total Dominion resources and government The governor-general IS nominated by the British Government, bu? is paid whollv by tl)e Ca. xd.an. I he cabinet usually consists of thirteen members-a numbe; too t|! i8 Canadian Pictures. great, but at present convenient because each important section of the people desires to be represented among the ministers of the crown. The Senate, nominated for hfe, consists of eighty members, and the House of Commons of 212. The legal duration of a Parliament is five years. As in Great Britain, all measures must, to become law, receive the assent of the head of the state and of both branches of the legislature ; the constitutional system of ministerial re- sponsibility is carried out to the full. Although in theory the governor-general is commander-in-chief, and has the power of pardon in criminal cases, the power so given to him should always be exercised by the advice of a responsible minister. The militia, which constitutes the whole military force of the country, with the exception of about 800 men, who are called the " embodied militia " and are really " regulars," has not been sufficiently attended to by the State. It is designed that at the stations where there are " embodied " artillery batteries — now three in number — the officers of the militia artillery shall be trained. The same plan is to be carried out for the infantry at three infantry schools of instruction. No ade- quate provision has yet been made for cavalry instruction. There is no kind of naval armed force on shore or afloat, and there are no engineers and no torpedo corps. It is to be hoped that the training of officers and non-commissioned officers will be steadily enforced, and no commissions be accorded to untried men. ~m RELATIONS BETWEEN CANADA AND ENGLAND. 1) 2 S I (Jarihuo Horns. (/•■«)«; the Colllilioii of llie ,M,in/uh of r.oriir ) CHAPTER II. 1 Relations hetwken Canada and England. Gkneral Ignorance of Canada in Enoland— Strkngtii ok Canadian Skntiments— Tiik Tariff Question- Importance OK KEEPING VV FklENI.I.Y RELATIONS WITH THE CoLoNlES-TllE IllCill COMMISSIONER FOR Canada -Feemnc. in Favour of the Connecth)N with the Hritish Empire. THE seventeen years which have passed since the confederation of 1867 have witnessed continued pohtical and material progress. Persevering and steadfast, and accustomed to self-government, the people show no restlessness, such as is seen in some small European and South American countries, where a new ministry comes in almost with each change of the moon. There has only been one change in the Dominion, and that brought a Liberal ministry into power for five years. The connection with the Empire is most jealously maintained. It may be as well to say a word on the relations between Canada and the mother country as they present themselves in the year 1884. Although Canada is now only eight days from our shores, and Australia can be reached in the time which a sailing vessel formerly took to reach America, yet there is still a vast amount of misconception of the position and prospects of our dependencies. It is, perhaps, a misfortune that men often begin to acquire a useful knowledge about the colonies when it is too late for them to make use of it for their own good. The information as regards the prospects of life in these great territories should be given in the schools and universities. To many a boy an accurate knowledge of how money can best be made, and the early years of manhood most profitably spent in Australia, New Zealand, and the Dominion of Canada, would be of far more use than much of the • f 33 Canaihan I'lcnuis. I) obsolete erudition still retailed to liim in our Hnj,'lish puljlic schools. The voyages of Cook, of Champlain and Vancouver are as interesting as are those of Ulysses, and the suhsecfuent history of the lands they discovered the most edifying for an luiglish buy. If true information were readily obtained, and colonial life were brought as familiarly to the minils of Hnglishmen as their own home life, it is difficult to believe that there would remain so many here who have no occupation but the proverbial privilege of grumbling at their own fate, and at all around them. In Canada, if it were nut for the constant bright sun- shine, and for certain improvements in the art of government, both central and local, the Scotch and English emigrants might imagine that they had never left the Old World, so good are the schools, so orderly are the people, so easy the communication from one district to another. To many a poor English labourer, who will find that good wages can be got for a gocxl day's work, and to many a poor English gentleman, who finds that he can obtain sport at small e.xpense among the fowl, the fish, and the deer, it would seem as though they had been set down in a better English world, and might imagine that some benevolent spirit had suddenly granted to them all their heart's most hopeful dreams. They will find that the people around them, and their own children as they grow up, remai-i English still in all essentials. They have become or are becoming part of a people who are sturdy, independent, who know their own ideas and necessities, and insist on acting upon these. Much as the Canadians continue to love the old land for its associations, they have no idea but that their own opinion as to what is best for themselves in their new land is better than any one else's opinion upon the same subject. They insist on making as much as they can of their own country in their own way, abandoning preconceived ideas or the ideas of their old friends who may wish to convince them that the soil of a new world is not favourable for knowledge of what is good for its people. They are, in short, as self-willed as children of John Bull may naturally be expected to prove. They may be wrong or they may be right, but, whether wrong or right, it is important that John Bull should remember that they mean to judge for themselves, and he and they must shape their transactions with each other accordingly. There is one matter, and that a very important one, on which it is by no means likely that he and they will soon agree. He is convinced that it is for his interest to buy in the cheapest market ; and the cheapest market for him is in all ways the world at large. They, on the other hand, think that, although they desire a cheap maket, the cheapest market may, in the long run, be found to be that where they may purchase partly from their own countrymen and partly from the world at large. They are apt to imagine that this will, as they call it, build up their new State, make it strong to resist enemies, cause it to have a pride in itself, and to be represented in all industrial branches of national being. They may be quite willing to pay for the luxury of this pride. The mode of life which it leads them to follow may not actually be the cheapest, but it is certainly not the most Canadian Iukas. 33 worthless. 1 he sentiment which hids thtMU ^'ivc their kinsman in the OKI I. and the best possible treatment remains : he is the customc-r, oi.tsid..- of their own brother- hood and proup of politically-associated coloni.-s, with whom tlu:y like best to deal rhe feelmj,^ that leads to the adoption of protective tariffs is one which it IS difhc.It for a Londoner to understand, perhaps, but it finds its closest parallel Canadian Snow I'l.oi.i y Ml th.Move the London householder has for a separate iiouse. Vol. ma ell a housewife m that great Ba])ylon that it would be much cheaper for her to live m a great house with other people-to have a flat, or some rooms in a llat, and to be supplied witii others from a common kitcheu-but she would '-■itf^-iVr n :ii«il I f l!i 24 Canadian Pictures. not hear of such a proposition. Perhaps the cause which has made London cover so much ground is the fact that each housewife insists on having her own separate property and house complete— the kitchen and parlour and sleeping- rooms being apart from all neighbours. Out of England, England's children maintain these prejudices. They often wish to live in a country which shall be, as far as possible, what the Scotch call self-contained — that is, as independent in resources as they can well make it. In Canada this feeling varies in degree. The Conservatives say they want a revenue tariff, and put a duty on outside- made goods of about half the amount placed by Americans on foreign imports — namely, about 30 per cent. If the Liberals came into power to-morrow, they would probably lower the tariff ; but it still would be a high tariff in the eyes of the English manufacturers. Thus both parties in the State are more or less compelled by public feeling, which does not at present allow direct taxation, to pur a comparatively high duty on all imported things which may be or are manufactured in the Dominion. We may have protection carried out in English-speaking communities of all sizes, from Australia to the Canadian Dominion, where, although the effect is to make certain goods dearer, the system is maintained ; and, whatever our opinion may be on the question involved in the science of political economy, we must take men as we find them, and we must not refuse to sympathise with our fellow-citizens who dwell in greater lands than Britain because their ways are not as our ways, and are adverse to the theories we may hold as essential to their welfare. These islands have thirty-five millions of people, Canada has now about five millions, Australia will soon have four millions. Britain has, for the small area she possesses, great resources in coal and other wealth ; but it m.ay be well for her to remember how little of the earth's surface she possesses in comparison with her children. The area of Canada and of the Australian States is so vast, the fertility of their soil is so remarkable, the healthfulness of their climate is so well proved, and the rapid increase of their white population is so certain, that within the lifetime of our children their numbers will equal our own. In another century they must be gready superior to us in men and material of wealth. How foolish, therefore, will our successors in England deem us to have been, if we do not meet to the fullest degree possible the wishes of these growing States! They have a filial affection for their Fatherland. They will retain a brother's feeling for us, if we are friendly to them in the critical time of their coming manhood. Days may arrive when we shall implore their assistance, and when the alliance of those Powers, grown into maturity and strength, and under very possible circumstances the strong arbiters of our own destinies, shall be ours through the wisdom we may show to-day, or may be lost to us, and become the property of our enemies, by the coldness of our conduct at this hour. If we do not reciprocate friendliness to-day, because they do not give us exactly what we wish, we indeed show ourselves to be penny wise and pound foolish. their may The Importanck of Canada's Friendshi F. 25 The first essential condition which may prevent coldness and want of sympathy is _ thoroughly to understand their position, and to look on our children s action, not only from our own, but from their, standpoint. All thin^^s ni this world, unfortunately, narrow down in the end to the question of gain and the question of strength. We should be only too glad if sentiment-a much-derided thing, but yet a power of marvellous force in politics-had sufficient mfluence to cause our friends to be content to gain less from us than from foreigners ; we should be content if they give to us the best treatment they can afford to give to any outside of their own countrymen. If they from neighbourhood or other exceptional causes, give the foreigner an apparent advantage over us in dealing with themselves, it is still vastly for our policy and to our interest to remain their closest and their best allies. The firsf step to keep them firm in their alliance is to work with them for the purpose of pushing their commerce. As long as they choose to entrust (partlyf at all events) to our diplomatic and consular service the interests which are principally heirs, we should instruct our consuls, and agents appointed to positions abroad, to treat any one who resides in a colony as though he were resident in Britain, and he should feel that his interests are the interests furthered by the Govern- ment of these islands. A colonist should find, wherever he is, that the most potent agent at work for him is the agency of the Fatherland. He should never be allowed to say that his claims were looked upon with lukewarmness because he was born m Montreal instead of in London. His interests are our interests, and so long as his Government works in alliance with the Imperial authorities-and this will be to the end of time if we manage matters well-his claims to attention to distinction, and to access to foreign marts, should be pushed equally with those of our own citizens. No matter that his Govern- ment niay wish to conduct such negotiation after methods which are not ours -that his Government may wish to erect a Customs Wall here and demolish one there, where you think there never should have been a wall at ail-that is the affair of his Government ; and if you wish to maintain your old colonists- alliance you must back up their views of what is best for themselves. To ei^deavour to interfere with the policy of fiscal affairs of such countries as Australia and Canada, to declare that they must shape their measures so as to give this to one sister colony, or that to the Fatherland, is to pursue a line which must result as disastrously as did the line followed by "lord Nor^ He and his King used all their means to preserve the integrity of the EnW on the old plan of dictation from the central hive. Thty Iho woukl e serve the integrity of their fiscal theories, and prove by other means than persuasion that free trade is good for all. as well as for England, delirinlto die ate political economy, are the Lord Norths of our dav. Persista ? n such dictation can only lead to one result, namely th^ breakin^of nn ■ V in 111 26 Canadian Pictures. The appointment of a High Commissioner, on the part of Canada, to reside in London, was by far the most important event which has occurred in the colonial history of the last few years. It was the first step taken by a colony, and cordially accepted by the Imperial authorities, which will lead to that ultimate council of envoys by which (perhaps early in the next century) the Imperial policy will be directly guided. It was a step which promoted unity, Snow-Shoe Club in Inbian File. although it seemed to some minds to define separation. When negotiations for trade with foreign Powers were made by England in former days, it was not her custom to consult her colonies. She made her own arrangements for her own good, and it was supposed that her good meant the good of the colonies. They had no hand or part in bargaining for trade. Of late it has been especially asked of Canada if she desires to be excepted or included in The High Commissioner, 27 any commercial treaty She is consulted whether she wishe7any social tr^aVv to be made m her behalf through the agencv of her own Hurl, r ^ ^ and the members of the Britislf Diplonfal^^od/a rrad^'^Th^^nTr^IJ boon to the colony, for she is spared the expense of maintaining any consds o any complete diplomatic representation abroad. By emplovinp- one mnn in I ^ she can obtain with certainty the assistince of thJ^] .^ ? , London. and Governmen, ,„ securing what he desires ; he becomes the selo" d se f of the for diCetro z- r„„de;.ire''::„,tfl"ar"u""^ '°"r", '•"-t p™^'^'°"^ of this island ^h»^ ,h, r„. ."f ^""'^ "='S- " 's manifestly to the advantage withhe eplsentaites I?'h '"'"'°"",''°"''' "^ '''"""'"^ '"'"^^'dy British n^renf nnrl . r ,. ^^"'^ °^ ^^'d by the colony at the door of the in hfn!^ r '^''"^^8^^'"''^h^P^^^"t land would be engendered in the new country ; whereas whpn th^ r^i^ • 1 c • " ^ "'^ cu^cnuerea appointed by the Bitish Government to do the ? " ' "=■" "'"'"^'''^ ^""^ own Amhns«nH„r ,1,. A- " . ™""^"' <" oo the work m conjunctbn w th its show that he had a fiir clvfn? f , "'^"'''P''"^ '<> his Government will sioned to complete tha hTZl Tf'""g. ""= '>"8-" "-^ »- commis- representing the m'pfrfal PoJer > , '\'"f Tl""'" by the Ambassador negotiationLrhecroe solZ'astedM t "' '"" ""P-^ '° ""='"" "'^ " r - ^oTr '° ^''-"'? -°" '-vr is-t: l;?: ■■"'--^ °^ better ilu^'rated ,Z"''dr T '", '"T""' P""""-"' •'''"--''- —•• ^-n Dominion of Canada h ^ ?,'"'; ^"^ ^'''"' °' '•"""'"vative rule in the be much he vt th „ tl Xve I ""= f ""'" '«"""' ""P°«^ ""' ""- object of the Canad ,n ' l'^ .'"'f '"";'' ^'"=<= -S?*. and it has been the avowed a classifies on onm; ^ '^""t '" '^?"" ""■■ '°'"""^"^'= ""'> "«= Dominion by would at once haXe" "per tn, h":,;; ^ 'T '«"'"^' ^"«''* ^oods most cases prove ibsnl,, J,, f? .'" "'•■"' *<=>' '■"■= "<>". ="d would in desire that T; „ t "ht^:'Ln,^''':7„, ?' T'^ /"''''" "'"^'- '^""^ "' '^ J naie lett tins country should still be citizens of our Empire, ". HBE^HHP*'***^**)'**^^ 28 Canadian Pictures. and continue hand-in-hand with us, and which prompts us to make sacrifices in order to do this, is not one of empty sentiment alone, but is based on material interest. If we only persuade Englishmen that this is so — say during the next twenty-five years— we may be sure that the essential unity of the Empire will be maintained, for in another generation it will be madness to question the utility of close alliance with the strong peoples who will then be rulers of the South, as in the case of Australia, or of the North, as in the case of Canada. How great a guarantee for the peace of the world will the expansion of the trade of each portion of our confederated Empire be ! for war, which shakes the trade of each part, would not be hastily entered into by any ; while, if it must come, how much stronger will that Empire be which, even if it cannot bring the forces of each of its members into the field, shall yet at least be able to count upon the friendship of all, and the probable active aid of one or more ! I have often been asked as to whether the feeling in Canada in regard to its connection with the Empire remains as strong as before. I believe it to be even stronger than it was formerly ; and the best test that this is the case is seen in the fact that no public man or public body have ever ventured to formulate in recent years with any success a contrary policy. I have often been asked, too, if I believed that the feeling of the United States with regard to the incorporation of Canada is not as strong as before ; and in reply to this I would say that it is an undoubted fact that the United States would gladly welcome Canada into their empire ; but the Canadians show, as yet, no sign that they desire this consummation, and, except under very great provocation, it would not be pressed by the public men of the United States. Their idea is that the pear when ripe will drop into their lap ; but, meantime, the pear is ripening with a tendency to sow vigorous seeds under its own old branches, and to live on in a more vigorous and extended life as a separate nationality, holding the alliance with England as its best guarantee for the same. i to count THE CLIMATE OF CANADA. H;i U iJoG Sledge. (From the Collection of the Marquis 0/ Lome.) CHAPTER III. The Climate of Canada. Comparison between the Ent.i rsir Av.r> /^.. -here Z2lt''l\.l1^^^ " "'"'l '" "*= "'"'" "' ""= ''"'"''^ P»" "< Canada, en^l^h^roT'to .r„,ro'f L".""'"'" °'*^ "f"^""' ~^''° ^>'"^ ^'^ h .ic 10 tell mc ot then experiences in their new homes. With il 3-' Canadian Pictures, )|i ! iiiil settlers from the Eastern Provinces were mingled others who hailed from England. Ireland, and Scotland. I had received satisfactory accounts of the year's excellent crops from all, and then put questions to them as to the advan- tage or disadvantage of the climate as compared with that of other places. Several had borne evidence of the healthfulness and purity of the air, and to their preference to it as compared to that of any region they had known, when up pushed a sturdy Irishman, who said : " I want you to tell this to my people at home, I come from the County Armagh, and I was thatching my house last year in the cold weather, and I felt it far less than I did the last time I thatched my house in Armagh." When agents of railway companies, and men interested in the South, try to persuade settlers to go down to the South, and settle in some parts which are notorious for their cyclones, snakes, and centipedes, or for ague and fever, it is well to remember how healthy the conditions of life in the North are, and to what a great age men usually live. Where, as in the case of some English and many of the French, a number of generations have lived on Canadian soil, we see the race more vigorous, if pos- sible, than in the days of the first settlers. Cold the weather certainly is durino- five or six months of the year, but the cold, except upon the sea-coasts, is dry. The saying of the old Scotchwoman is literally true. She wrote home to her people to say, " It was fine to see the bairns play in the snow without getting their feet wet." It is only near the sea that the bairns can make snowballs, until the spring thaws come to help them. Throughout the winter the snow is dry and powdery. The Canadian seasons are very certain. It is sure to be steadily cold in winter and steadily warm in summer, and throughout the twelve months a bright sun gives cheerfulness to the scene. There is a severe, but extremely healthy winter of less than six months, and a summer with sunshine so ardent and so certain that almost any fruit and crops are raised. Where old Voltaire said there was nothing but a few acres of snow, you may see each summer along the verdant and populous shores of the St. Lawrence in the little gardens of the yeomen proprietors fine plants of the broad-leaved tobacco, and the Indian corn raising its yellow crown above its sword-shaped leaves, while the sweet water-melon is abundant, and grapes will ripen in the open air. In Ontario, near Niagara, peach orchards cover the country, and wine is made from the vineyards. Strawberries, raspberries, currants, and many small berries are native to the land. Some of these grow on bushes. There is one in the west called the " high bush cranberry," whose red clusters of fruit cling near the stalks of the shrub, which has pretty silver-tinted green leaves. An excellent jelly is made from the fruit, and we found the ladies of the garrison of an American fort in Montana great proficients in making preserves from it. The size of the wild black-currant is extraordinary. In the Ou'Appelle valley I have seen them as fine as in any ^ '■'••' ' At the school established for the half-blood French- English kitchen-garden y m TiiK Fn:i. Sun'tv. 33 Canadians at th; t place, the fathers hud plantecTTi^months^ 1^7^^^;,, some of these plants taken from the woods, and it would have been difficu to but al hough the foxglove .s missing, there is the beautiful "golden rod " and throughout the woods there are masses of calmia and other flowers the lictrin espeaally makmg gay many a vista of the woodland. ' j^ry . . ruiiy j^'^'^^tri^^^s: n:i:^ i^ a v' t e. ion" f " n"'^ '^^"'^, ^'"^^''^ ^^'^"^' O"^-'^' -^ Q-^^-- • IbJndZ ^1 / """"["f "^ "^'" ^^^'■8^^'y ^'^'-"-^d of fo'-e^t, but having an se' led o/ZvLftle"°t '^^ '"' "'''" ^^^^'^ '' ^^^^>' ^^^^ ^^'^^^ maf has settled or may settle, hnormous stores of coal are being actively worked in prrnfint;: : 'T ^^ "'"^- ""T ''' ''''' ^"^^ hourly increasi-^l^ldll 1 presen immense. You may see in the mines near Pictou galleries twentv feet as t'': nZr f '''' '^^°" ^"""'' ^^°^^^^ •■" ^^- -'^ - "e when th '•'' •' '°"'^'''"^^' ^^^^--^ "^^^'- ^--"^ -^y J-k of fuel. At first' supply of fuel w^as thought to be more serious in those regions, for the timber miciceTsthh? " ^-r'"T^'""'P^^^= and although there is a 7a semicircle of such heavy woods to the north, the farther end of the arc comino- h rough which the new railways had begun their progress. The lands nre of "ooc r °''-'n r" "^^ ^''''■^'■>^ formation-that is of* a late age-and no very been dSco" . ' "''"'^^"^- '^'^^^ "^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ''^'^^ ^ound, and these 1 ave been discovered in greater quantity of late ; but the lignite, although very useful fcH- household purposes, and giving fair heat when it is of good qualkj canno 4 knmrth T^^h T '' '^'''^''''' ^" ^"^' ^^"^-^ f"^'- I^'-^her westw^ard it rin o^r h" ct. r::LTthr^" ^^^^^^^'^^^^ formation, gave p^ce to beds In crossing- the nV k t '''^ "^^""^ ^"'-''^"1 cretaceous measures appeared. thro Xhill er 1 T " f .^ f?"" ^'"^"^ ^'^^ •"°""^-"^' -"^ ^"^ ^heir way I^^s he h ,, ;tffs"' '^-'^--f-al have been observed, and in some AndnowL. ^^'fj^-'^ ^^^" to be streaked with dark bands of colour And now it is proved that throughout a great area there are abundant indication^ rW 34 Canakian I'k iruKs. t.r llir prcsciuc of iM.al ; and, still better, tlu! coal which has lu^cn sc(mi croppin^r out in various localities has l»een tried ami fomul to he excellent for all purposes. The new province, recently christened Alberta, will be the " black country" of the central continent. Anthracite; exists in thick seams. The railway entwines alniady use nothini,^ but the coal of the district. l'"roni north to south for a distance of fonr hundred niilis, ami alont; a tract at least two hundred miles in wiilth, experts believe that coal in any (pianlity exists beneath the loni^^ undulatini,' swell of the prairie. Hven if we had not found tliis exhaustless supply, the ;?rT^#^-., settler in the north-west would not have had lonj; to wait, for tin; railway would have brought him the coal o\' British (Columbia. Away beyond the mountains and down the Pacific C«ust we come upon a country whose climatic conditions are totally tlifferi'nt, namely, a land called British Columbia- an immense land of mountain, forest, ami Hood, the Alpine ranches soaring in some of their peaks to the heioht of Mont Blanc— a land in the main .so deeply and wonderfully forested that you may, on its sea coast, cut timber thirty and forty inches sipiare of a uniform size for one hundred feet- a country where the rivers rush impetuously throujj^h tremendous gorges to run in shorter navii^able reaches into harbours which art; defended by a gigantic natural break- water formed by the long n)cky island of X'ancouver. Here, on this island, we have a climate like that oi' the south of England. Th(; shrubs which CoMMUNMATION HKTWKKN CaNAI.A AVt. EncU.ANI.. 35 arc familiar to all in tl,<. ^.u-dcns ai.oui Lo.ulon. an.l many nunc which w.>uM '- t,.o dd.cat,- to jrrow tlu-re, thrive in this favoured island. A ^n-eat deal of i M-.nta.nous and practically unknown. To the north of it lie other great l.p <>( .slands and more mountainous coast, and the climate is attain mild but th^ .•a.nndl ,s heavy. In the mainland interior of this Canadian SwLerland y. av stranue var.at.ons of c in.atic condition within narrow areas ; you may have- a farm .n a iK.aut.fuI r.ch valley, surrounded hy uugniHcent woods, a'nd hve'n.ile.s'^ff yo "ay go ami pay a v.s.t to your friend who has another farm, ami find that his P ace as such dryness that not only will it not support the heavy tind.er g^wth v.th wh.cli you are fan„har on your own homestead, hut yo.u- fric:nd has even to l.rmg w.uers to u-rigate his garden, which, with this provision, will produce even more richly than your own. > i y.^ ^y^u A word before passing to the general features of the comitry as to e m g-afon. h.vcellent steamers ply between Liverpool and Halifax in winter, and between Liverpool and Quebec and Montreal in summer. The winte.' Ivrf!!, it' I T "'^'^V" ^^",:'^'>-«-^'^^ ^"'"'"-'- P^i^^^age is usually perfbr.ned from land to and m s.x days. No one doubts that very many in our large towns can bene ,t themselves by nioving. Very n)any in 'the country can do so also although for my part, and speaking more in the interests of England than of Lanada. I would rathe.- see departures from the towns than from the country for there are but few country districts whose population is too dense. In any case what we desire is that the advantages of Canada should be known, so as to mducc men to weigh them as compared with the United States. I. from personal knowledge, believe that Canada can more than hold her own in the comparison ill Climate she has in her various provinces vast areas as agreeable to men of our northern races as any the United .Stat<=s can offer. Her .^oils are as rich her goveinment is more tree, and the opportunities presented, not only for makimr a comfortable living, but for the attainment of comparative wealth, are as good oudden fortunes are. it is true, not so often made, but, on the other hand, there „'l 7 T- r^'^^'^y- ^ '^^-'■^' '■'^ '-1" equality of fortune, taking the people as a vvhole, which can hardly be matched elsewhere. Opportunities for the killing oi game are usually better than in the United States. All emigrants should go out in the spring. Now, taking first the ear. 1 he position of such a man is by no means unpleasant. He shares ' •!« ill ! ^'1 .^6 Canadian Picturks the life of the farmer, and is treated as one of tlie family. I'or farmers there is the powerful attraction of homesteads of all si?es. l' have known very many men who have succeeded well, and who have bej^nin with nothinji,', or next to nothin,L,r. Hut I should counsel all who contemplate emitfration, and the takin«r up of farm life, to have, if sinj^de men, from /50 to / 100, exclusive of the cost of the journey, and if married from £150 or ^250 to /500. There are good vacant places to be had almost anywhere. In the north-west you can get 160 acres of excellent land for /2. The land regulations under which these grants are made are to the full as favourable as those of the United States, and in some respects are to be preft;rred. For the north-west people of good physical ability only should be sent. If a couple go, man and wife should both be able to work An Indian Camp on the Plains. (Frj/ii a photograph in tht poisl$sioH of the Marquis of Lome ) and have ^60 to ^75, exclusive of cost of journey, at the least, if they have no knowledge of farming. If they have children, they should be provided with £12 more per head. If the children, are able to work, ^6 extra per head might suffice. Fine ladies and fine gentlemen will find themselves altogether out of the race. At the same tune, there is abundant scope for gentlemen's sons having modest fortunes, say from /200 to ^500 a year, for these men will have opportunities of making their living and of procuring sport which they cannot realise at home. It is most remarkable that of such men and of such women as those I have mentioned, one almost always hears that they have liked their new life. Por one letter containing the complaints of a grumbler I have seen six dozen speaking of the fullest contentment ; indeed, so curiously rare has any complaint been that I have taken some pains to investigate a few cases of alleged failure ; and I am sorry to say that in the case of several of these I have come Emkjkation. 37 upon indubitable cvitk;nc(; to show that th(;y wero trunip^x! up by intL-rcstcd IKirtics. and were not fiom tuk at all. Hut let this Ix; clearly understood that what Canada ofA^rs is not an I-l Dorado, such as that wliich inspired the dreams of the Spanish followers of Cortez and IMzarro, who went to the South American shores expectin.tr tribes of docile Indians to meet them brin-ing- heaps of ^M and silver utensils and curious works of art, and whose dreams were in many ive come On the lIuMATIlCcl KlVKK, liRlTlSH CoI.lMIIIA. (Itvm a /'lioh'gtvph in lh( pMsess!,m of tlu M.uyiih ,>/ l.mic) cases wonderfully near the truth. It is not such an E' T)on>lo that Canada otters. I ler offer is this : a comfortable home on his o oil to any man who has a .t,rood pair of hands and a decent knowledge how to use them ; if he have something ot his own to start with, so much the better will it be for him. I'or women there is plenty of space and places; but the women who Mill succeed must be women who will work. They who wish to go out as teach.-rs in ri :1. 3« Canadian Pictures. governesses. &c., had best stay at home. The Ladies' Committee of the VVomen s Emigration Society of Montreal told me lately that they could at once place i.ooo girls of goo-^ character, if sent out to them, and that the demand for hem was so great that they would be sorry to see them go past Montreal on to Ontario. But the ladies at Toronto are equally solicitous to procure good servant girls, who are excellently well treated in Canadian families. Even his excellent treatment is not sufficient to prevent them from marryin^., strange to say and the demand for wives fully keeps pace with the demand of house- wives for servants. Indeed, the number of girls who keep to the first resolution they may have formed to get as far as Winnipeg is small indeed, for if they loiter by the way they take up situations in the cities along the road to the west I have often tried to keep a household together when obliged to take them on distant journeys; but it is surprising to see how the female members of it are now scattered in happy homesteads stretching between New York and Victoria British Columbia, a distance of 4,000 miles. In short, this imported European article is so popular that no government has dared to fix any tariff rate upon it, but the local authorities have been obliged to help in getting it by sivinp- " assisted passages " to women as well as men. If girls are sent, they should always be under some person's auidance or have some lady to whom they may apply. Societies and clergymen can easilv correspond with Women's Emigration Societies at Montreal and elsewhere and only send the number required. The clergy may be relied on to report wisely and kindly as to the chances for working'women, and the Canadian report can be acted on by the clergy at home, who can raise funds to help deservina women Ihe cost of reaching settlements where there are no railways is unfortunatelv great, but if ^8 can be given to take women on from Winnipeg to places like Frince Albert they are certain to be welcome there. i,,^ tee of the mid at once demand for lontreal on ocure good es. Even ng-, strange 1 of house- : resolution they loiter le west. I :e them on s of it are d Victoria, European rate upon by giving lidance, or can easily /here, and lort wisely report can g women, artunately ilaces like THE MARITIME PROVINCES. I M i^M Mm \ %^H m Cai'E Hlomiuo.n. CHAPTER IV. The Maritime Provinces. The IJay ok Fundy— Annapolis— Louisburg— Shipbuilding in Nova Scotia— New Bkunswick— The Cascapedia— Prince Edward's Island— The Fisheries— Newfoundland. A WELL-KNOWN book, entitled Sam Slick, tells the story of a shrewd and enterprising clockmaker who goes about Nova Scotia selling his wares and turning a penny to his own advantage, but not always to that of his customers in the old province by the sea. In comparison with the push and go-aheadism of New England, he finds the provincial people but slow-coaches, and declares they are always talking of doing a thing, and never doing it. Since his day the character of the country and of the country people has con- siderably altered, and the railway locomotive may be seen ringing its bell and steaming through woodland villages and over fertile meadows and past rough forests, where even Sam Slick himself would not have thought it would be worth while to push a track. Before touching upon the newer regions of Canada, it is needful to refer to the country first seen after making a voyage to Canada ; and to show how, without going far from England, and while keeping within the reach of the daily post, of the telegraph line, and of the bi-weekly or tri-weckly communication Q 42 Canadian Pictures. % i with England, and at a distance of only ten days' journey from London, fair lands with fair opportunities for settlement can be found. Let us, then, take one or two scenes in each of the old provinces which are so easily reached. As John Bull, when he becomes a tourist, is always fond of getting up to the top of a hill to look around him, let me take you to the top of a steep isolated cliff at the end of a long ridge of volcanic rock which is covered with pine woods, and which overlooks a gulf of the sea on one side, and a fair, wide, and green valley, twenty miles in width, upon the other. If you wait until the tide ebbs, you will see that it leaves a vast stretch of red sand, for the tide goes back very far. It will come back again over tho>e sands with a rush which sends the water up as fast as a horse can gallop, until it surges against a lon'>- line of earth entrench- ments like the Dutch dykes, which prevents its further advance. If you look carefully upon the country mapped out beneath your feet, you may see certain other ridges which look like old earth walls. They are some distance inland now, and but just visible amongst villages, orchards, and country studded with white comfortable-looking wooden farmhouses having verandahs and gardens around, and you would be right in supposing that these old walls are ancient dykes. Formerly the mighty tide of the Bay of Fundy, now restrained by the outer walls, swept up to them. The inland dykes were made in old days— days which have been rendered familiar to many by th^ genius of Longfellow, who wrote the story of a time when the happiness of the old French Ackdian dwellers in this valley had come to an end, and the war which had racred between England and France had touched them too, and had compelled th^em to leave to others the well-loved Grand Pr(^, or Great Meadow, which they had tilled in security for some generations. " In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand-Prd Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward. Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. Dykes that the hands of the farmers had raised with labour incessant. Shut out the turbulent tides ; but at stated seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south were fields of flax, and orchards and cornfields Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain ; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft in the mountains Sea fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended." Longfellow's Evangeline. This valley is only two or three hours distant by rail from Halifax, one of the winter ports of the Dominion of Canada, a port to which steam vessels from the Mersey sail every week. Its white farmhouses and its orchards are types of many others to be found in various portions of the province of Nova Scotia which is a province singularly rich in varied geological formations, and havincr,' Halifax. 43 with a httle gold, what ,s far more valuable than any gold-field, great fields of coal If wages were only as low in Nova Scotia as they are in England and Scotland, one of her ports-the port of Pictou-would soon rival Glasgow or Belfast ZhTn '' \^T "■°" shipbuilding port. Near it are mines almost as vast as those of Lanarkshire. Close to the water are these great veins of coal of twenty or thirty feet m th.ckness, and the galleries of the mine are so spacious that full- grown horses are used, while the miner swings his pick, not crouched or cramped in a bending attitude, but standing at his full height. Close to the sea also, and close to the coal-mines, are hills full of excellent iron ore. Around almost every town in Nova Scotia farms may be had where the head of the family may be sure to have excellent schooling for his children, a church service exactly like his own at home to attend, and a ready market for any produce he may raise. The rich red soil is as deep and good at the head of the Bay of Fundy where a comparatively narrow strip of land separates its waters from those of Northumberiand Straits, as the Sound is called which separates the mainland and I nnce Edward's Island. Very many of the apples which come to the English market, and are sold as American apples, come from Canada. How delicious is this fruit, in the hot autumn days, and the appearance of the great orchards, when spring spreads G 2 44 Canadian Picturks. 1)1 ill ; I a cloud of blossom over the luxuriant ^rass chequered with pleasant shade ! The inland countries are rich in apple crops also, but there is no better tract thap the Vale of Annapolis, stretchinjr from Windsor south-eastward behind the sheltering hills which hide it from the northern winds. The little town called after Queen Anne, which gives its name to the valley, and is situated at its end at the head of a beautiful land-locked bay, has interesting associations with the past. It at one time had the dignity of being the capital town of Nova Scotia, and our governors used to reside there, troops occupied a carefully built fort, now in ruin, and the British squadrons rode on the bay. It is now shorn of its glory. It seemed to me to possess some wonderfully well-preserved old ladies, as well as many pretty young ones. Among the things told me by one of the former, were recollections of the days when she used to dance with the Duke of Kent, and when she remembered seeing a negro slave-woman bound to one of the trees near the court-house to receive a whipping ! The school where a promising lad used to receive his lessons and an occasional birching was pointed out, for the boy became Sir Fenwick Williams, the brave defender of Kars in Asia Minor against the forces of the Russian General Mouravieff, in the war of 1854. But Annapolis can tell, although not through the mouth of her living citizens, of other warriors. Above the present town, on the slope of the hills to the south, are the remains of an old earthwork. It is all that remains of a French fort, and from the grass-covered rampart was dug not long ago, one of the most beautifully shaped and wrought arrow-heads ever carved by man. It was cut from a perfectly pure piece of transparent quartz, and was finished like a gem. Point and sh.u-i) barbs and short shaft were all as perfect as on the day when it left the old Indian artist's hand, and was fixed to the feathered wood to be shot from a bow against the earliest white settlers. It must have missed the armour of the soldier against whom it was aimed, and have pierced only the turf, and there remained hidden until brought to light by the English fanner. Against whom was it thrown ? Probably against the palisades ^and ramparts erected by De Poitrincourt, Seigneur under the lilies of France of the Valley of Port Royal about the year 16 10. Delighted with the fair harbour and pleasant neighbourhood, a military colony was here established; but the natives for several years were unable to brook the presence of the strangers, and skirmishes were freciueiu. As with the Spaniards in the south, the first care of the Catholic adventurers was to beat the Indians, and then to persuade them to adopt the true faith. To the ceremony of the surrender of the Indians succeeded the ceremony of their admission within the pale of the Church. The savages remained on the side of the Frencli in the wars afterwards fought with the British, who in the time of Queen Anne conquered Port Royal and changed its name in honour of their Queen. This is the story which is repeated with varying incidents through all the long-drawn coasts of old Acadia. We see first the forest village of the Red Indians, with its stockades and patches LOUISBUKG. 45 ot maize around it ; then the landing from the ships under the white flag sown with golden hlie., of armoured arquebussiers and spearmen ; the skirmishing and the successful French settlement, to be followed by the coming of other ships, with the red cross floating over the high-built sterns, and then the final conflict, and the victory of the British arms. Leaving the richer parts of Nova Scotia's territory, let us look at a spot on the eastern shore of its great island. Cape Breton. This is Louisburg of old a fortress called after the French king, and defended by some of the best regiments of France. The shores are low and rocky, and the growth of wood in the neighbourhood does not show much fertility of soil. A few fishermen's houses at the head of a semicircular bay, guarded by low ridges of rock which just peep above the sea, alone show that men now care to live there. But there is a regularly shaped embankment at one place to the left as our vessel casts anchor, and on landing we find ourselves in the centre of a space yet hemmed in by the remains of a great rampart and ditch. Ruins of strong case- mates, shattered vaulted buildings, and the traces of the foundations of many structures are before us. These are all that remain of the key of New France. Some of our party went by rail to examine the fine coal-mines near Sydney, some miles away, and others took to digging for relics of old fights. A plentiful harvest of these was soon secured, and a curious collection it was! ihere was a copper coin of Louis XIII. and soldiers' buttons and buckles. There was a portion of an exploded hand-grenade, the remnant of an old sword, the brass-work of which around the hilt was unimpaired, although green with age ; there was even the breech piece of a small cannon, and the barrel of a musket. Had these lain buried ever since the day that saw the arrival of General Wolfe and the fleet bringing him to conquer in the enterprise which assured to him the command in the weightier operations undertaken subse- quently against Quebec ? We tried to realise amid the present loneliness and peaceful desolation the animated scene of the attack. We fancied the ramparts around us again square and trim with their masonry and earthworks. We watched the cannoneers and infantry massed in rear of the fortifications and alert behind the parapets and traverses. Again the British fleet, with high sterns and crowded sail, and accompanied by an armada of small craft, came gallantly into the bay. Then from the cloud of smoke vomited from the French lines and the towering sides of the ships flew the hail of rushing round-shot. But the water between the shore and the fleet is now alive with boats, and the patter of musketry is succeeded by a roar and rattle of guns which drown all other sounds. No one can hear his comrade's voice. The rain of fire has sunk several boats, and the surf on the beach will surely prevent a landing. But, no ! a slight figure stands up in the leading barge and waves his cocked hat. His com- panions in crowds leap into the white foam and, landing, form under the little cover afibrded by the first ridge of soil above the sands. More and more suc- ceed in effecting a lodgment. The French have lost their opportunity, and on 46 Canadian Pictukes. the blood-stained beach the Enghsh are firmly established. The fall of the town is only a question of days ; and the surrender of Louisburg gives over all but the St. Lawrence to the Anglo-Saxon rule. It was not long before the place was found inferior to Halifax, where a harbour which is never closed by ice has since become a flourishing town. A fine old frigate, the Grafton, lost her rudder in a storm off Louisburg in 1 758, and we see in the engraving how she was fitted with a temporary steering gear. Disabled as she was, she safely reached the English coast by the aid of this last contrivance, it was in such ships that Wolfe's army was conveyed to America, the larger vessels being furnished on their poops with great lanterns, to show the fleet their position. The "Grafton" with Tkmpukaky Rluuek. {From an ohl f>rint in the /osstwsion of the Mattjm's of Lonw.) Ni: The present capital of Nova Scotia has been retained as a station for imperial troops. A regiment of the line, with some artillery and engineers, are there at present, and the forts commanding the entrance from the sea are mounted with heavy guns, well protected. From the presence of the fleet in summer, and the residence of many ofificers, the society in the city is very pleasant, and nowhere are the winter sports of toboganning and skating carried on with greater zest. Other sports are followed with a suc- cess obtained with difficulty elsewhere, for within a day's walk of railways there is good chance of getting a shot at moose. This immense deer, ugly in form, but furnished with fine broad palmated horns, often five feet six inches in their lateral spread, was rapidly becoming extinct in the province, but a law Shipbuilding in Nova Scotia. a-j prescribing a close time has led to their increase. Of the^n^alitieT^ members established the first settlements, there are communities around Lunen- burg largely German m their composition ; and on the north shore, between Weymouth and Yarmouth, a colony of Acadians keep very much of their early manners and customs. The Highlanders, who are numerous in many places' and especially near the Straits of Canso and in the Island of Cape Breton, retain the Gaehc language m great purity. Sometimes an Acadian is to be found with a German w.fe, both using a queer English dialect, as might be expected, and one case is mentioned in which a man speaking only Italian was married to a woman who spoke only Gaelic ! Among natural curiosities the locality known as The Joggins is the best worth visiting, as showing in great perfection sections of the coal-measures, where great trees have been perfectly preserved, and may be examined along with the beautiful ferns and other plants which flourished in the hot marshes of the days when as yet the North- ern Continent had a climate warmer than that of Central America. Land is not dear in Nova Scotia, and a good farm may be had for /200 or /300, while tenancies can be had cheaply, the occupier having only to pay from two to five dollars per acre for the land. The industry of shipbuilding still occupies many skilful hands ; but it is likely to employ fewer as iron ships come mol-e and more into use. There is yet a vast number of vessels sent out, so that the Dominion stands fourth among nations in the possession of tonnage. Every few miles along the coast may be seen vesses m all stages of progress, and of all sizes, from the small yawl to the clipper of fifteen and sixteen hundred tons. The wi.vrfs at St John Wew Liverpool, Lunenburg, and Yarmouth are crowded with home-made cratt, smart, and stoutly built. You may even see large boats building in the back gardens of men whose ancestors came from Devon or other English seataring counties, and whose workmanship will now stand the test of the rudest gale. Let me now take the reader across the gulf into whose rushing tides we looked from the heights of Blomidon to its northern shore, and on inland, past The Moose. n B 48 Canadian Pictures. the ridges which shelter it from the sea, to a great valley, called the Vale of Sussex, in the province of New Brunswick. Beautiful trees are scatter-J in groups, such as those you see in an English park, over meadows and cornfields bright and golden under the unfailing August sun. Here too you have beauti- fully situated lands for sale, because the young man who owned them has taken a fancy for wilder life and still larger returns on the North-Western prairie ; and yet you wonder he couLl leave a place so enticing by its beauty, and so certain to give the comforts and requisites of domestic family life and of a civilised community; and as you go on down this valley to the south, and arrive at another great harbour which is never sealed in winter, and which is surrounded by the buildings of the flourishing and enterprising town of St. John, you marvel yet more at the restlessness of mankind, so conspicuously shown by your own race, which seems never to be content unless it is browsing like a horse against the wind, and \i\\ go on moving westward until it knocks its head agairst the Rocky Mountains ; and even then is not content, but wanders farther westward yet, until it comes to the distant Pacific shore, and there, finding often thai it cannot go farther westward without becoming sea-sick, returns by the nearest train again eastward. But there are fortunately many left who have not been invaded by the restless spirit, and who prefer their ease in older settlements, and are content with being the heirs of the labour of generations who have gone before them. Of such, perhaps, the reader may be one, whom I would ask to accompany me for a moment up the river which flows up the harbour of St. John, as far as the town of Frederickton. This is a delightful little city, ornamented with magnificent willow-trees in its principal streets, and having a beautiful, broad, and clear-watered river running past its comfortable and cleanly houses. The settlers round about have e.xcellent lands and are mostly of British descent ; but farther up stream you may see a most flourishing community of Danes, who, finding all they want he^re, have, like sensible people, recently settled down, and have written to many of their friends and kinsfolk to come out to them and do as they have done. Frederickton is ninety miles from the sea. Above the capital steamers may navigate the stream for about sevenCy miles further. The great cataract of the Grand Falls, where the river plunges down in " clouds of snow-white foam " a distance of eighty feet, is well worth seeing, but the distance is some- what great, as one has to travel 225 miles from the river's mouth to see its floods take their headlong leap among the upper forests. By canoe it is possible to cross from "^^he parent sources of the St. John River to those of the streams which flow into the Bay of Chaleur, at the other extremity of New Brunswick, with a comparatively short portage. The pleasure of such an expedition in fine spring or autumn weather is very great. When the waters become too strong for the canoe to be " poled up," or dangerous in their descent, the voyager lands and makes a " portage," that is, the canoe is hauled out, and, placed on an Indian's back, is borne at a trot through the shaded parts of the wood to the next piece The Forests of New Brunswick. 49 of water where .t can agam be safely launched. The camp fire at night throws out mto rehef the straight stents of the fir trees, and the showers ^of spark which start Irom the red logs whenever fresh fuel is added, rise to fade away overhead among the thick branches, through which the stars look down on the mystenous gloom of the forest, which hems in the little circle of life and lieht around the camp fire. The silence of these woods is remarkable. In sharp fros you hear the trees rrack, as though pistol shots had been fired, but at all other TfTerdure." ""'^ '"'^'"' ^'""'"'''^ '''' '"'' ''"'"^ '^'"^ '" '^'' g*-^^" ''^'^^ The feeling of such solitude is oppressive, and one is glad to sleep near the mus.c of runn.ng water. In travelling far. it is well to take plenty of food, for there is none to be obtamed from any botanical studies of moss, roots, or grass Berries may be found, but they will not sustain life. Professor Logan, in making such a journey was nearly starved to death, and had it not been for the good luck of shootmg a fisher or otter, might have left his bones in the woods. Where there ,s good soil the hard-wood trees, such as maple, elm, ash, and birch, abound, and marvellously beautiful is the autumn colouring of many of them. The maole especially flaunts her boughs in the most vivid green," crimson, gold, and scarlet. So intense are the colours that if attempted to be rendered by painting, the picture ooks unnatural. Sometimes the trees seem literally on fire ; but often you will see one part of the foliage of a tree still wearing its summer tint, while the leaves borne by other branches are blazing with saffron and vermilion. The oaks are not so often met with, but when they occur they wear a claret-coloured autumn dress, while the birch and poplar and elm prefer a light yellow. The effect of this colouring is wonderfi.l. especially when repeated in the still waters of a lake, and seen from your canoe, as your men, noiselessly dipping their paddles, keep you gliding over a surface which is dyed in all the hues of these was more or less known to gorgeous groves. All the New Brunswick coast ... u.u.. u. ,ess Known to Uiamplain, who gives a description, accompanied with maps, cf many of the harbours. He was particularly impressed with the advantages of St. John, and of he islands which he a ong the shore of the Bay of Fundy. One of these, now called Campobello, is a charming retreat from the heat of the interior. There is an excellent hotel, and there are pleasant roads along its shores, which are well sheltered by woods. Situated near the mainland railways, it is easily reached, and IS becoming a very favourite place for the enjoyment of bathing and summer amusements. With the exception of Dalhousie and Carlton, on the Bay of Lhaleur, it is one of the most accessible and pleasantly-situated places for a seaside sojourn. Some of the readers of this book who are interested in geology, and who may have read Hugh Miller's works on the old red sandstone of Scodind, shodd visit, near Campbeltown, the quarries where splendid specimens of fish have been taken from the Devonian measures in that neighbourhood. These fish belong to the great family which were provided with armour, somewhat in the H IV 50 Canadian I'icturks. nianniT of the nioilern sturgeon, and in these New Urunswick beds each plate and joint of their curious structure has been perfectly preserved. New Brunswick's fair lands are by no means confined to the St. John's and Sussex valleys, but belt the whole province along its seaward face wherever the forest has been cleared, or the rivers, tilled with salmon and sea-trout, run A ViF.w ON Till-; Hay / Lorne.) paradise, and it is not wonderful that for the season of 1.SS4 the fishing belong- ing to the Government has alone been let for i,2CX)/. The house shown in the engraving is one I put up at a spot ten miles from the sea, and close to the head- quarters of President Arthur, who in past seasons used to come every year to this river. \m A Nkw Brunswick Salmon Stream. Si The only drawback to the pleasure of Canadian sport in summer consists in the number of flies. There is a minute sand-fly which appears to enjoy its sport in feeding on man and other animals for an hour or two each sunrise and sunset, and makes the skin of the afflicted feel as though it were burning. There is the black fly, which has the sense to go to sleep at night, but which is very lively during the day. It is somewhat smaller than the common English house-fly, and enjoys its repast by taking a tiny bite of a wedge shape out of the flesh, and draws blood. Then there is the sleepless and scientific mosquito, with its odious pinging flight, and quiet settling on the part chosen by it for the insertion of its sucking proboscis and the pushing home of this implement of torture. Lastly, there is a formidable apparition, called the moose-fly, which one of our friends declared seemed to him so big that when one came into the canoe at one end he felt he must get out at the other, as there could not be room for both. The moose-fly too has great power of satisfying his appetite ; but in the case of all these pests, habit does a great deal to reconcile the fisherman to his lot, and with veils and tar-ointment he may defy the insect persecution. But it is worth while to experience some inconvenience, if accompanied by such enjoyment as that which can be gained by living for a time in summer among these beautiful wildernesses. What greater pleasure can man have than to recline in his canoe while his sturdy Indians propel the light little craft up the stream ? The clear current allows every stone under its gliding surface to be distinctly seen. Often it is too strong to allow any but the slowest progress to be made against it, but by taking advantage of the side eddies, and then deftly fronting the impetuous rush over gravel bank or rock ledge, the traveller is brought past the difficulty, and another quiet reach opens before him. And now he has time to look around him and to watch a couple of eagles, which have been soaring in circles high in the blue heaven, descend to perch on the withered top of a tall fir. Soon one swoops down to the shallows and darts at something in the water. There is a splash, a violent flapping of wings, and a desperate struggle, which ends in the great white-headed bird dragging to land a fine salmon. As the canoe swings along under the bank the grey kingfishers forsake the hanging thuya boughs on which they have kept their watch, and wiih a chattering cry pass over to the other side. You can hear the big owls lamenting from the thickets, and from the same quarter comes the loud drumming sound from the grouse as he stands flapping his wings, making music with them for his mate as she sits on her nest. The heron, with his great eye of crimson, and handsome plumes of white and black, is a more constant fisher than any furnished with rod, reel and artificial flies, and his leaden wings carry him with slow flapping away in front of you. There are mosquito hawks wheeling with pointed wings in sharp twists and curves, ai/d our wishes go with them that they may caich plenty of the common enemy. But there are many smaller birds of much beauty, the lovely vireos, warblers and fly-catchers, and the crimson finch and his smaller cousin, the indigo bird, decked out in Prussian li I liji 'f iH 1 1- w 54 Canadian Pictures. blue, and, if the eye be looking for them, the ruby- throated humming-bird may be detected perched on some branch end and seen against the sky. On one of the few bare spots on the hill-side where grass and copse are visible there are some dark specks moving, and these are bears, who are impertinent and hungry enough occasionally to come down to the camp kitchen. They are often caught in an ingenious trap. Within an inclosure to which there is but one entrance, a bait of honey is fixed to a piece of wood, which, when pulled brings down on the head or neck of the bear a heavy cross- bar weighted by thick logs, thus either killing or capturing him. But there is another kind of " large game " more easily secured, namely, the cariboo or reindeer. These may be A Salmon Kivkr, New liRi'Nswicn seen singly or in pairs during the hot weather drinking at the river-side, their palmated horns curving prettily forward, and their coat, dark-brown at this season, showing against the background of ferns and mosses on the bank. They have indeed here a sylvan paradise ; and if there are disagreeable insects, are there not also others of rare beauty ? The yellow butterfly, with black markings, known in England as the " swallow-tail," may be seen in great numbers, groups of from ten to one hundred being often clustered together on some rnck where they Canadian Flowers. 55 have found food. The Camberwell beauty and other kinds are common. Nor are flowers wanting in the rich grasses under the whitewood and mountain ashes. .'here the spring may be seen the lovely trillium, with its triple-leaved blossom spangling with white stars the moist and shady ground. Later in the year great yellow marigolds rise at the water's edge, and further up among the tangled jungle of the steep bank the white and crimson lady's ■^ \ ^ slipper may be seen, with A| ^^J anemones and the ivory-like (,\j flowerets of the Indian tea or partridge berry. Alas ! most of the Canadian flowers are scentless, and, beautiful as they are, they cannot com- pare with the wealth of England's spring in violet, primrose, foxglove, and hyacinth. It is now time to take a look at the is- land, famous for its horses and its oats, which lies at the other side of the narrow sea called the Straits of Northumberland, an island named after the Queen's father, Edward, Duke of Kent^ A summer voyage thither is a pleasant experience ; but an expedition across that same strip ^ ^^ , , of sea in the winter time can hardly be recommended as an amusement. The tides are strong, and the northern current bnng. the ice down m thick masses. The ice blocks float along, often piling up Canadian 1 i.owkrs. } Hi Si! 11:':' 1 k If';' 56 Canadian Pictures. against each other, jamming and crunching in white hummocks which remind one of pictures in the Arctic voyages of Franklin, Parry, and McClure. A fine steamer, sheathed with iron, was built some years ago, and this vessel makes the passage tediously, but generally with success, so that it is no longer necessary to trust to the disagreeable and uncertain mode of transit used in former days, when an open boat was hauled over an ice raft to be launched in the next clear lead of water, and then again tugged out, to be again launched, until the perilous passage had been accomplished. There are now over 110,000 people on the island, and no pleasanter place can be desired for a summer stay. It is considered certain that improved means of communication will be devised for this winter passage ; and as at one point there are only nine miles of water to be traversed, it will be surprising if this is not secured, for the ice never forms a bridge across, but is swept backwards and forwards by the strong tides. In summer the fresh breezes from the ocean insure coolness, and the long stretches of white sands give excellent places for bathing. A railway runs the whole length of the land, which is excellently cultivated, and many a hard-worked professional man forgets his toil and renews his energy among the swelling fields and picturesque coves near Summerside, or on the breeze-swept dunes of Rustico. In the bays and little river estuaries, the inhabitants have found a mine of wealth in the so-called mussel mud. This is a deposit varying from five to twenty feet in depth, formed by decayed oyster, clam and mussel shells. Rich in the remains of these shell-fish, this mud has proved a most admirable manure, and it is regularly dug out and carted on to the fields, whose crops and pasture show how well the care bestowed on them has paid the farmer. Charlotte Town, the capital of the little province, has fine wide streets, as yet insufficiently planted with trees, and a pleasant neighbourhood. There is a good deal of trade with the United States and Newfoundland, as well as with the opposite side of the Straits. The fisheries are well served by all our maritime popula- tion, who take naturally to the salt water. The chief catch is of mackerel and cod. The amount of these annually taken is enormous. Perhaps the best, fitted vessels for this fishery are the schooners which come from Gloucester in Massachusetts ; and it is to be desired that our people would imitate more the co-operation which makes the use of such fine boats profitable. The cod are dried and pressed and sent to South America and to the southern lands of Europe, where the consumption of them among the Roman Catholic population is very large. The mackerel is somewhat uncertain in its habits, frequenting certain parts of the sea in countless shoals i • many years, and then often disappearing for a time, to re-appear again as betore. In this it resembles the herring, which swarmed on some banks off Sweden, making towns which sent out its people for them prosperous. Suddenly, the herring vanished, and the towns decayed. Lately these towns have again seen trade revived, for the herring have again come, and are as numerouF. as before. So with the mackerel. At present the Newfoundland. 57 Massachusetts banks enjoy their presence, but they will return to their old quarters, and it is on this account much to be desired that regulations be made which shall preserve them for the benefit of the fishermen both of Canada and the United States, and that an international agreement be arrived at, which shall under specified conditions throw open the fisheries to seamen of both nations. The lobster is in great demand, and the capture of these again requires regulation, for in some localities their breeding season varies from What it is in other places. The factories where this crustacean is prepared for the market dot the coasts. They are caught in creels placed in comparatively shallow water, and are brought to the houses, where large vats await them. In these they are boiled, their meat e.Ktracted, and packed in hermetically sealed tin cases. The carapace is too often thrown away, for it makes capital manure, and the gravel or sand of the sea-shore is reddened in many spots by the cast-away armour. Off Prince Edward's Island there are capital beds of an oyster smaller than that procured further south, but of excellent quality. A commission composed of scientific men is wanted to go round -among the fishermen and others interested in the canning and fishing, to inquire as to the best means of preserving these valuable supplies of food. But there is another island to the north which we must not leave without notice, although, strictly speaking, it does not come within our range in speaking of the Dominion. This is the great island of Newfoundland, having a surface as great as that of England. She has not yet joined the Canadian union, showing the influence in this exerted by the " dividing seas ; " and although her progress has been great, she naturally suffers from the want of stronger backing than her own, to carry out the public works necessary for the development of her remarkable territory. People think of this country as a bare littoral, swept by glacial seas, and inhabited only by a tew fishermen. Nothing can be further from the truth —to be sure, she does smell of fish ; and a very good thing this is for her. But in the years to come she will have great mining communities, for copper, iron, lead, silver, and coal are all stored in good quantity beneath her .soil. She has large areas of fine land, beautifully varied by her woods and streams. Gypsum IS found on her western side, where the scenery is of peculiar interest. Long arms of the sea indent the coast, which is graced by the covering of pine and fir. Elsewhere on the American continent the Atlantic .seaboard is tame and fiat, but in Newfoundland the shores are bold and rocky, like those on the north of the St. Lawrence, and no man need complain of the tameness of the aspect. The colony has long burst the bonds which would have tied her down to be a mere producer of stock fish and .seal oil. Yet, stran^re to say, this was the fate which was deliberately sought to be imposed upon her by her early governors. They would not allow the erection of houses without written pernr'ssion, and this prohibition was maintained up to 1811. I 58 Canadian Pictures. In the year 1790 Governor Milbankc wrote to Mr. G. Hutchins: " I have considered your request respectin^r the alteration which you wish to make to your store-house near the water-side, and as it appears that the alteration will not he in any way injurious to the fishery, you have hereby permission to make it. As to Alexander Laig's house, which has been built contrary to His Majesty's express commands, made known to the inhabitants of this place by my proclamation of the 13th of last month, it must and shall come down. I shall embrace this opportunity of warning you against making an improper use of any other part of (what you are pleased to call) your ground, for you may rest assured that every house or other building erected upon it hereafter, with- out the permission in writing of the governor for the time being, except such building and erection as shall be actually and on purpose for the curing, drying, salting, and husbanding of fish, must unavoidalily be taken down and removed, in obedience to His Majesty's said commands. And it may not be amiss at the same time to inform you, I am also directed not to allow any possession as private property to be taken of, or any right of property whatever to be ac- knowledged in any land whatever, which is not actually employed in the fishery." The next governor, named VV^aldegrave, writes in 1797 lo the sheriff, "Your having suffered Thomas Nevan to put up. what you are pleased to call a few sheds is clearly an infraction of my orders ; you will therefore direct him to remove them immediately ; which if not complied with, I desire that you will yourself see the order executed. You will take good care that Jeremiah Manoty and John Fitzgerald do not erect chimneys to their sheds, or even light fires in them of any kind." And even now the same almost incredible state of affairs exists along what is known as the " French Shore." This " French Shore " is nearly the whole of the coast-line facing the St. Lawrence Gulf, namely, the western shore. By the treaties with France, the French have the concurrent right to use the shore for the purpose of drying and curing their fish. Neither they nor the Newfound- landers are allowed there to erect dwelling-houses, except as necessa/y for the fish-curing operations. No settler may have his farm on that forbidden territory, for it " would interfere with the fisheries." It is needless to go into the many disputes which have arisen from this intolerable arrangement. Naturally, the French have striven to get all they can, and have interpreted the words of the treaty to mean that they possess rights of exclusion of the natives, which could never have been intended. The evil is a great one, and most detrimental to the progress of the colony. The best plan w ould be to buy the French rights, or, if this cannot be arranged, certain definite spots should be given to them absolutely, as we left Pondicherry to them in India, and as the islands off the Newfoundland coast of Micquelon and St. Pierre were left to them. Such stations would serve their purpose in encouraging the fishermen of St. Malo to cross the seas in pursuit of their industry, and would free tlv remainder of the country from a condition of affairs through which it cannot be profitably used by .u\y one. St. John's, Newfoundland. 59 Where else in the world can it be found that it is considered necessary to keep a shore a desert in order that fisheries may not be interfered with ? 1 he capital, St. John's, has an excellent harbour, the entrance to which is in a jrap in bold masses of rock, which rise abruptly from the sea. About 30,000 people mhabit the place. In exchaii.t^e for their dried fish they get from Portugal the best port wine ; and it is really only in Newfoundland or from (ioiNG 10 Church in Canada uukinu a Flood. Newfoundland that the Englishman drinks the purest wine of this kind, unless he takes especial pains to procure it direct. Brazil and the Roman Catholic states of Europe all take large quantities of the island's fish ; but its exports ought to be far larger, considering the excellence of much of its land, its undoubtetl riches in metals, and the shortness of the sea passage to Europe. !t I 2 6o Canadian Pictures. was from Ireland to Cape Trinity that the first Atlantic cable was laid ; and it is across Newfoundland that the cheapest and quickest route must always be obtained. Whitticr finely expressed the hopes of the nations when the electric wire was first made to bind to.<,fether the two worlds. nil "() lonely Hay of 'Irinity, Ye bosky sliorcs untrod, Lean hrcathless to the white-lipped sea. Anil hear the voice of (Jod! From world to world His couriers lly, 'rhought-winj^ed and shod with fire; Tile angel of His stormy sky Rides down the sunken wire. What saith the herald of the Lord ? 'The world's long strife is done; Close wedded by tiiat mystic cord, The continents are tine. And one in iieart, as one in blood, Shall all the peoples be ; The hands of human brotherhood Are clasped benealii the sea. Through Orient seas, o'er Afric's plain, And Asian mountains borne. The vigour of the northern brain Shall nerve the world outworn. From clime to clime, from shore to shore, Shall thrill the magic thread; The new Prometheus steals once more The fire that wakes the dead. Throb on, strong pulse of thunder ! beat From answering beach to beach ; Fuse nations in thy kindly heat, And melt the chains of e.ich ! Wild terror of the sky above, Glide tamed and dumb below ! liear gently, (Kean's carrier dove, Thy errands to and fro. Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, Beneath the deep so far. The bridal robe of Earth's accord. The funeral shroud of war I For lo ! the fall of Ocean's wall. Space mocked, and Time outrun ; And round the world the thought of each Is as the thought of one ! The poles unite, the zones agree. The tongues of striving cease ; As on the Sea of (lalilee The Christ is whispering. Peace ! " Labrador. 6i " A glad prophecy " indeed ; but how for off yet is its fulfilment ! The wild and barren coasts of Lalirador are under the island's government. There may be some minerals here also, but up to the present it has not paid to work any veins found on that sterile coast. There is a beautiful spar called " Labradorite," found in boulders, possessing a gleam as of shot silk, and shining like a flash of blue light when exposed to the sun. 'i'his is the only marketable mineral exported ; but in fur and fish getting there is plenty to do. At the Fur Company's and fishing stations dogs are always kept for winter transport, a team being driven with four in a line, tandem fashion, and not, as with the Ksciuimaux, abreast. .Strange tales are told of the cleverness of the.se dog.s. It is even The "Sakuiman" in the Re off XtuEui'NULANi^. averred that they catch fish for themselves in the shallows during all the summer season, and are not fed, except in the winter. One gentleman gravely assured us that his dogs went out morning and evening for their fish breakfast and supper, and that he had seen that their manner of catching the fish was to dabble a paw gently on the surface of the water. The fish, innocent as they are in those latitudes, then come to see what is disturbing the surface, and are imme- diately seized in the clever dog's jaws. One dog, having a small white patch on a black paw, was noted as being especially successful in attracting the fish by this pied paw moving near the surface of the pool ! 6a Canadian Pictures. f1 Little as Newfoundland is known to the tourist, it is well worth his while to stop to explore its hills, valleys, and great open " barrens," the home of the cariboo deer, which luxuriates on the pastures round its lakes and morasses, and on the peculiar white mosses which make some parts look as though a white hoar-frost had lain on the ground, despite the hot sun of summer. Although so few people visit the country, the first si^^ht of an coast is hailed with joy by hundreds of thousands, for it assures then\ nfter their six-days' sea passage from Liverpool that they are about to enter through the Straits of Bellihle into t. . sheltered gulf; that the pains and perils of the open sea are past ; and that after two days' more steaming through calm waters, they will arrive at Quc-bec or Montreal. It is before they reach sight of land that the passengers on the steamships are refreshed and entertained by the beautiful and curious sight of icebergs and ice-floes floating southward to the warmer latitudes, to be scattered and dispersed off the American coast. The great glaciers of Greenland, ever pushing downwards from the interior towards the shore, descend in long cliffs into the sea, and, as the thaws exert their influence, bits of the ice-cliff become detached, and fall with a roar into the water, floating off to commence that summer voyage which causes occasional anxiety to the officers of the watch on shipboard. It is, however, only when there is a thick fog, or when the vessel is running quickly during a dark night, that there is any risk of collision with the bergs. The Arizona, on her passage from New York to Liverpool, lately ran full tilt at night against an ice-mountain, receiving a terrible shock, but luckily making no impression on her antagonist. Sometimes these bergs are shaped into overhanging peaks, which, with such a stroke, might topple down on the deck. But with the Arizona this was fortunately not the case, and so admirably did the vessel's water-tight compartments serve their purpose, that, although the bow was much damaged, the ship had not the slightest difficulty in putting into St. John's for temporary repairs, and in subsequently continuing on her course to England, r 'I I. : ' m^ ONTARIO. m 11 a; \i r4 m M '',.,j w ifc a I 3 o X H u s H I'ARI.IAMENT nuILDINGS, OTTAWA. s o s ■A S H CHAPTER V. Ontario. Ontario— Niagara— Ottawa— Ki.\nsTo\— The Tiiousanp Islands— Toronto— Miss Ryk's Home — Religion IN THE Province— I'HE Fair at Toronto— Ontarian Agriculture— Food and Fruit Supply— Duck Shooting— The Beaver — Western Ontario. LE)T US now look at a view in the great Province of Ontario, 900 miles to , the west, a province which is by far the wealthiest and the most poijiilous of any province in the Confederation. It has two millions of people, chiefly descended from Entrlish and Scottish stock. VVe will, if yoi please, place ourselves on a heiji^ht not far from the famous whirlpool in the Nia'^ara Rapids where poor Captain Webb recently met the death which it may be almost said he courted, for no livinjr being has ever come from those rapids alive. The roaring river flows along in a deep and wide chasm upon our rifht, and we are standing on a ridge which dips down to lower land along the river side in steep cliffs fringed with cedar and other wood. A tall monument in the shape of a gigantic column crowned with a statue is behind us. This was erected in memory of General Hrock, who gallantly led a force of Canadian militia and regulars against the steep heights on which were standing the Americans, who had crossed and got possession. It was necessary to dislodf^e them, and, like most British attacks of former days, it was delivered full in front. The General fell at the head of his troops before the ascent had been begun, but they, infuriat(Hl at his loss, swarmed up and gained the battle of Quecnstown Heights. From where we are, and still better from the top of the column, to K 66 Canadian Pictures. M M 'J. i I'll' which a staircase gives access, a wonderful view is obtained over the surrounding country. Looking up the river, we can see over wide stretches of orchard and woodland a vapour-like steam rising. This is the smoke-spray ascending from the great falls. Looking down the river, we see it flowing a few miles farther on into a wide stretch of water, whose horizon, blue and distant, looks as though it belonged to the ocean itself. This is the Lake of Ontario, which, great as it is, is among the smallest in that group of vast inland seas called the Great Lakes of America. Right and left along its shores the country has evidently been cleared of its forests, now only remaining in picturesque groups, and is smiling with cornfields, apple and peach orchards, and pasture. Far away, thirty miles off, we may just discern the smoke as of a city, and the dim gleam as of many houses. This is Toronto, one of the most prosperous of the young cities of the continent. It has 100,00c people, is becoming the centre of a rapidly extending network of railways, and has an importance already great, and which must become far greater in the future. And what is the condition of the people occupying this great territory, which, although it was reclaimed only eighty years ago from the primeval woods, is already as strong in population as some of the small European States, and is sending out its multitudes annually to people the Far West, while the places they have left are being filled by the settlers from the Old Worid ? It is a people essentially British in character, having an intense pride in the successes which have hitherto crowned their efforts and blessed their province, and possessing a very perfect system of self-government, providing admirably for the training of its youth. There is not a school throughout its broad expanse which is not placed under the supervision of a master specially trained in the art of teaching at two great central institutions, called Normal Schools, at Toronto and Ottawa. Each district is assessed in a school tax, always cheer- fully paid, and insuring for all the children the benefits of a free education. The Central Government has nothing to do with education in Canada. This is a matter which is entirely left to the Provincial Pariiaments, and regulated by them as they think best. With this universal assessment the rights of the Roman Catholic minority are carefully guarded. If at any place the Roman Catholics can show that they have a sufficient number of children to form the classes of a school they receive an adequate amount for the support of their separate educational establishment. No children are compelled to attend, but practically all do so, because men wish to obtain the benefit of the assessment they are compelled to pay. The universities of this land, although too numerous, are good, and the University of Toronto bids fair in time to become sufficiently wealthy to attract the best professors, and to be fully equal to the demands made upon it by the rapidly-increasing numbers of students, many of whom live in denominational colleges aroand, and receive the benefit of its examinations. Niagara has been so often described that we will only advert here to the plan now proposed to form an international park on both sides of the river near \ ''i'l'l-'iiirll'''! l:ii(:';i.i. ■111- Niagara. 69 the cataract. On the American side many ugly buildings have been erected, and some of these cannot be hidden by any scheme of tree planting. The great hotels are so placed that no one can look from the Canadian shore at that part of the falls which comes over the ledge of rock on the American side of Gc^t Island without seeing them. But many other structures could be hidden by a fringe of trees being allowed to possess the cliff edges. The island which separates the waters is clothed with fine timber, and has only to be left alone. If a strip on each side of the river were taken by the Canadian and United States Governments respectively, all buildings not necessary for the accommo- dation of visitors could be removed, and the dollars now exacted from all and sundry who may wish to see the falls from various points of view would no longer be levied. No one can visit this wonderful bit of scenery without desiring that some such arrangement may be made. It is provoking enough now that, when you wish to watch undisturbed the resistless blue sea which comes foaming over the limestone edges, to precipitate itself in a long curving ridge into the gulf full of thunder and of spray, the enjoyment of the sight should be interrupted by the reminder from touts that an oilskin suit awaits you, if you will pay a dollar to descend to the Cave of the Winds. If a man desires ,to get a conception of what the contemporaries of Noah must have felt when the open flood-gates of heaven sent the deluge over the land, let him place himself as near as he can to the spot where the waters strike with a ceaseless reverberating roar the rocks at the foot of the great Canadian Fall. He will then see the mass of the river apparently toppling upon him from the skies, and will have borne in on him an impression of the sublime strength of Nature's forces as successfully as if he had been witness of an earthquake. The summer time is the best for seeing the falls, for in the winter, wonderful as is the display of arcades of icicle and grottos of glittering ice stalactite, the falls are too much hidden by the load of ice which clings to every place where spray can reach, and leaves open only the parts where the rush of waters is too heavy to allow the encroaching frost to have much effect. Great huni mocks heap themselves along the base of the cataract, and a complete bridge oi hillocky ice forms below the great cauldron. It is said that the river froze to such an extent during one winter that the " ice jams " consequent on the spring thaws took up for a while the whole river channel above, and that so little water came down that a daring man ran out on to the limestone ledge a third of the way over to Goat Island and got back in safety before the river resumed its full width. So many "tall stories" are told at Niagara that one must accept all with caution. Let the Federal capital claim our notice here, as the official centre of this province, although a town conr ected with it on the opposite side of the Ottawa river is in Quebec. Now distant only two and a half hours by rail from Montreal, Ottawa is easily reached, and during the session of the Federal Parliament, from January to April or May, is crowded with legislators and others from all parts of the Dominion. It was of old a mere station where the Hudson's KH |;!:« Hay voyageurs halted on their annual trips to the forts of the north, when they went to take supplies, and to bring back furs collected during the winter. Excellent timber was, and is still, ob- tained from the country above it, and its first importance was derived from the lumber trade. It was called Bye Town, after a General Kye, but was a small place of no special attraction. The iealousy between its bigger sisters Montreal, Quebec, and Toronto, when, in 1867, each of these f\, cities desired to be named the capital of the Ottawa. 71 newly-formed Dominion, induced the British Govenr.at, to whom the Canadians referred the question, to name Bye Town or Ottawa as the best aid "lost central situation for the assemblina of the Federal Parliament. The city is placed on the banks of a broad stream, which narrows at one spot above the town and pours over a steep ledge of rock, to expand immediately afrerwards, to flo-v on in a channel navigable except at one place where there are rapids, until it empties itsel , about eighty miles away, into the St. Lawrence. Forty miles to the south, the last named mighty river is the boundary between Canada and the State of New York. To the north-west, the Ottawa stretches on far mto the wilds, having Its head-waters on the height of land which divides the basin of the St. Lawrence from that of Hudson's Bay. The Houses of Parliament are of good design, their outline of towers and high-pitched roofs being particularly effective at a little distance, for they are built on a clift jutting out into the stream. They contain a fine library the chambers of the Senate, and the House of Commons, and the offices for the use of the ministers, and the staffs of the various departments of the government. ^ These buildings will remain and be increased in number as long as the Canadian Parliament meets in the city ; but will the other buildings which we see by the Cho-idiere Falls, a few hundred yards away, long remain ? These structures are the saw-mills, which ,. jrk all night and all day during the spring, the summer and the autumn months, cutting the logs which are floated down to them into planks, for shipment to Montreal. These planks are stacked in thousands of square piles, many acres of ground being covered with them. It looks as though there were enough of them to roof in the whole world. But the wood of which they are cut has come from far, and each year sees a le-ser number of " sticks " of considerable size. There is enough to last for our generation, but the serviceable trees within reach of the upper water-courses must diminish, as year by year the army of the lumberers work through the winter in felling them, and in dragging them to places where they can be floated off by the spring freshets. The Federal legislators have nothing to say in the matter. The conservancy of the forests is, with all legislation affecting property, the affair of the local authority of each province ; but it would be well if some plan like that followed in India and in parts of Germany could be imitated in Canada, and the tracts be regularly cropped, and the laws which do exist against the felling of small trees were more strictly enforced. Meanwhile Ottawa is one of the greatest centres in the Nordi American contine n for the distribution of lumber. It is a picturesque sight to see the men guii-ii^ the trees as they come down the swift currents, to their doom of mutilation umkr the merciless saws of the mill. We will go a few miles up the Gatineau, a stream which joins the Ottawa opposite to the residence of the Governor-general. There are fine foaming rapids alternating with deep pools under the bluffs clothed with the fresh green of 72 Canadian Picturf.s. the youii :- birch, the rose colour of th(; budding maple, and the scattered blossoms of the wild cherry. The ice has departed only three or four weeks ago, and the stream is beginning to swell high with the water from the snows which are melting in the north. Booms stretch out from the banks, and on these are men with long nailed boots, and holding in their hands steel-pointed poles with a hook (. \i Lumberers at Wokk. lilll i W at the end. They watch the stream as it carries to their feet logs of all sizes, some with their bark entirely gone, from their rude contact with the rocks, some still sheothed in their rough covering, and all marked with a hieroglyphic which tells the practised eye to what mill they are destined. Accordingly they are either shoved further into the current to be caught at other booms placed further Kingston. 73 down, or they are tackled and drawn into the water lead which carries them to a side dock where are piled close agamst each other masses of logs, so packed that more men have to be detailed to detach single pieces and push them to the inclined planes, which, running under the water, are furnished with iron-toothed cradles. • These take up the floating trunks of pine and fir, and in another minute they are sundered at once by a dozen vertical saws into fair four- or two- inch planks. Besides the stacks oi' wood on the side of the Ottawa may be observed confusedly-heaped quantifies of a green-blue stone, evidently placed to await shipment. It may naturally be expected by the stranger that this country of hard old Silurian rock, with its covering of thin soil and grey clay, might produce the minerals which are found so frequently in Canada, namely a little gold, much iron, and veins of silver or lead ; but these heaps of pale-green stuff have proved as remunerative a produce of these old rocks as any. They are the broken remnants of great crystals of phosphate of lime, which are found projecting inwards at right angles to the line of the vein in which they have been formed, and are well worth excavating, for they make an admirable fertiliser for the land. So much valued is this mineral manure, that it is exported in large quantities to the British Isles and to other countries. We might be tempted to follow the Ottawa northwards, in order to enjoy for a time the hilly scenery through which the Canadian Pacific Railway is taken, until we leave the valley, and crossing slightly higher ground covered with the ever-green mantle of fir, reach the big Nipissing Lake, with its tufted islands and wild north shore ; but more ancient paths demand our presence, and we will enter a canal which, in a series of locks, descends near the Government buildings. This is the Rideau Canal, constructed by the Royal Engineers in days when it was considered important to have an interior line of watei communication between Ottawa and Lake Ontario. It traverses a series of lakes, and emerges at Kingston, a place worth visiting on account of its memories of Frontenac, of the war of i8 12-13, and for the Military Coll'ego founded in 1875. This is one of the pl^asantest of Canada's towns, enjoyin^^ a pi-ood winter and cool summer temperat re, from its neighbourhood to the lake and river. Its old importance, both as a military post and as a political centrfi (for it was once a capital) has now passed away ; but the country around is so agreeable, and the society of the place is so varied, although limited, that it will always be a favourite residence. The Queen's College — a Presbyterian University — has a large staff of Professors. There are many clergy, both Protestant and Roman Catholic. A Bishop of this communion resides here. The Grand Trunk Railway passes through it, and the steamers from Toronto and from Montreal call at the port. Picturesque martello towers rise from the water, and are posted along the environs of the town to where Fort Henry, on the hill to the southward, dominates the landscape. The streets of the limestone-built city are well planted. Ship- and boat- building, with the several manufactories, and the stir at the wharves caused by L ill 74 Canadian Picturks. ! the trans-shipment of ^rain, keep a good deal of Hfe in the locality, deserted as it is by troops and politicians. The traces of the old French fort built by Frontenac are yet visible. It was a stone-built fortification, and, like so many other military pc .3, was alternately in the possession of French and English, with the Indian allies of each party, until, in 1758, it was destroyed by the force under Colonel liradstrcet. A building now used as a hospital was the meeting-place of the Houses of Parliament when legislation was alternately conducted for the benefit of the United Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, at Quebec, Mont- real, and Kingston, it had for many years the distinction of returning the present Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald, to the House of Commons, At the Military College, which is supported by the Dominion Government, young gentlemen receive for four years an excellent military education, which provides them with knowledge alike useful to them if they wish to become soldiers or civil engineers. Some commissions are granted to them annually by the home authorities, which enable them to follow a career in the imperial army. The TirousANn Islands. 75 From Kingston the so-called "thousand islands" maybe seen by taking the steamer down the river to Montreal. It would he a pity to sec the islands only, and not the whole river course between these points, for the rapids are well worth seeing, and the sensations experienced in rushing down their foaming waves are more novel than are those felt when traversing the archipelago formed by the St. Lawrence. The width of the stream near Kingston is about seven Sir John A. Macdonald. {From n fhotogrnph in the possession 0/ tlie Mnrquis oj Lcrnc) miles, and the whole area for many miles down is a labyrinthine maze of water, the rocky wood-clad group of islets separating the deep, strong-running channels. Each island is much like its neighbour, differing only in size and shape. Each is lovely in the summer season, when countless pleasure-boats and yachts dot the surface of the waters, and merry parties, escaped from the heat, turmoil, and restlessness of New York, find breathing-space and leisure to enjoy the quiet I. 2 Ifi i: 1 1 ,! ! ■! 76 Canadian Pictures. beauty of each little paradise set in the silver currents. I prefer the archipelago of the Georgian liay of Lake Huron, for the same beauty of wood and rock fastness may be seen there, but the forms of the islands are often bolder. But, for those who love to see nature while they enjoy civilised comfort in sumptuous hotels and lodging-houses, there is no region more attractive than the " thousand islands." Below these the steamers run several rapids, the Cedars being the most exciting, until Lachine is reached; an Indian pilot is then taken on board, and some marvellous steering has to be accomplished before the big vessel has safely passed the ledges over which the cataracts roar in angry floods, and is safe beneath the arches of the Victoria Bridge. At one point the rocks are passed so near that it seems as though they could be touched with a boat-hook. No accidents have occurred in recent years, but one wonders at the temerity of the man who first proposed to take a vessel loaded with passengers down this broad RuNNiNU TiiK Lachi.m-; KAI'IDS. stair of waterfalls. VVhoe^ er he was, it was not he, but his successors, who reaped the reward in many passengers' fares, and if he be still alive he may console himself with the thought that his case is that of most inventors, and especially of the ingenious projectors of new things in America. The first combination too often consists of men who are ruined by laying foundations on which others successfully build. Both here and at Toronto the sport of ice-boat sailing is enjoyed in the winter. A cutter's rig is put up on a horizontally-placed triangle of wood furnished with metal runners. The speed attained when there is a good breeze is very great, and the amusement, though a cold one, is very popular. The slopes around Fort Frederick, an old citadel commanding Kingston Harbour and town, are capital for tobogganing, or snow-sliding. The toboggan is formed of thin Skating and Ice-«oat Sailing. n phmks of wood, curved up in front, and made to allow two or five persons one behind the other on the cushions placed on the slender boards ; the man placed last steers by his hands or by one foot trailed in rear of the Hying snow-sled. No runners are used with the toboggan. A yet faster but more dangerous instrument for sport is furnished by the bob-sleigh, which is like a cushioned ladder placed on runners fore and aft. A number of persons can be thus accommodated, but the speed attained makes steering a difficult task, and accidents are not infrecjuent. The ice so quickly gets thickly covered with snow that it is only occasionally that an extended space of good ice can be had, and the variety of figure-skating to be seen in Canad;: owing to the re- stricted area availablt: in covered rinks. Perhaps the most graceful skating in the world is to be seen in London at the Regent's Park Club, for there the strictest rules are practised with regard to attitude. In the Dominion the heels are not kept so carefully together, wide curves are not so much prac- tised, and a bent knee is not considered a defect. But the number of men and women who are perfectly at home on the steels is of course far greater, the intricacies of the figures far more astounding, and there are always many in the company present who can take part in complicated combined move- ments. There is no prettier sight to be met than a great night fete during the carnival time in the town.s. Six or seven hundred figures, clad in various costumes, can then be seen at one time upon the ice, and country dances, valses, and the pretty evolutions known as the May-pole dance, are performed with perfect accuracy and certainty. While speaking of athletic exercises, we must remember that one of Toronto's sons, Mr. Hanlan, has especially distinguished himself as the fastest oarsman in the world, for he has defeated in their own countries the acknow- ledged champions of the United States, of Great Britain, and of Australia. If Toronto had nought else to show to the stranger, it would well repay him to go there, if he could catch a sight of that supple swing, that lithe, strong, and regular movement which sends Hanlan's outrigger speeding over the blue waters of the bay. The harbour is excellent, and large sums are now being spent to secure the sandy spit called " the Island " from the effect of storms, which have made breaches in its long curved line, and threatened the security of the road- iNDiAN Pilot on the St. Lawrenxk. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ ,<^dg. Sf ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 tim ■ SO ■2^8 1 2.5 MUM MJ^HB 12.2 us Hi 1.4 lllim Piiotograpliic Sciences Corporation ?3 WES^ MAIN STREET WERSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 Hi if '■ i ; , 78 Canadian Pictures. stead. There may be seen on summer afternoons the fairy fleet of the members of the yacht club, whose house is charmingly placed on the island. Desperate are the struggles for victory between the cutters and schooners of Toronto and of Hamilton, and a regatta covers the bay with the flotillas of the friends of the rival cities. But there are other points of interest, as may be well imagined, about this flourishing city. It was only incorporated in 1834, and had then about 15,000 inhabitants. It has now over 100,000, and is rapidly increasing. There are many fine buildings and broad handsome streets, well paved, kept, and lighted. As in most of the Ontarian towns, brick is chiefly used, but there are stately fabrics of stone, as in the case of the numerous churches and colleges, and the fine mass of the Law Courts. New Parliament buildings are being erected, and these great public edifices well indicate the activity of the religious communities, and the Miss Rye's Home as it was. pride the men of this province feel in their limited, but sufficient system of " Home-rule government." The park, although small, is very prettily wooded, and contains a monument to the memory of the brave students of the univer- sity who perished in resisting the iniquitous Fenian raid in 1866. A double avenue leads to the park from King Street, the greatest and longest of the goodly highways of the " Queen City." Trinity, Knox, and Upper Colleges, as well as the normal schools, should all be examined, to gain an insight into the excellent system of education. There are other institutions near Toronto which deserve notice, and which do not receive it from the guide-books. Among these is Miss Rye's home for girls, thirty miles away by .steamer across the lake. The neat young lady, the untidy children, and the substantial house with its bread verandah, sh.jwn in the engraving, have all a special interest for English Miss Rye's Home. 79 readers, for they represent Miss Rye's girls' home, the result of the education she causes to be given, and the raw material which she takes in hand, and changes to such good effect. Miss Rye and Miss MacPherson have both shown how thoroughly successful such a system as theirs may be, when carefully worked. Personal care is essential, but how many ladies there are, both in Canada and England, who could well afford time to follow their example! Provided that the children are brought to Canada when young, and that proper establishments under good supervision be provided for them, too many cannot be sent. I have on several occasions visited the Home shown in the wood-cut and nothing can exceed the cleanliness and healthiness of the house and its situation. The girls looked as though thjy thoroughly appreciated the good done them, in the happy life they were leading. It promised to make them useful members of society, and from the accounts received of the pupils who had been already placed with families in town and country, the promise had the security of the experience of the past, to induce the belief that the careful m t 80 Canadian Pictures. Girls as Taken Off the Streets. individual attention and love be- stowed would not be thrown away. The official inspection had proved that the Government authorities were well satisfied with the institu- tion. The place where the house is situated is about a mile from the neat village, which is built near to the outflow of the river into the lake. Peach and apple orchards, groups of pine, hickory, walnut and oak, are scattered over the charming neighbourhood. The visitor cannot help regretting that there are not many more such " Homes " to which the uncared-for children in our great towns might be sent, with the prospect of becoming the wives of independent yeomen, instead of being allowed to grow up among the many dangers of the confined alleys of the crowded districts of our smoky cities. Among the subjects of general interest there is none more engrossing to our good people at home than the efforts of the Churches to cover the ground occupied by the advancing settlements, so that the con- solations and guidance of religion may ac- company the pioneers of civilisation. The first Christian missionaries to the aborigines of Canada were the members of tht ociety of Jesus, and other religious orders who accompanied the early French colonists, and many of whom were most earnest and self- denying men. Owing to their labours a large proportion of the remaining aborigines of the country prefers the Roman Catholic faith, though there are also many communities of Protestant Indians, and active missionary work is being carried on among the remaining heathen tribes. One of the most remarkable and successful Protestant missions is that of Mr. Duncan's at Metlakatla, in British Columbia. The French colonisation gave to the Roman Catholic After Eleven Years in the Home, Religious Work in Canada. 8i our Church the priority of occupation. It is true, however, that there were Huguenot colonists, as well as Roman Catholic; but this element was before long eliminated by the action of the French Government and of the clergy and leading men of the colony, so that only a few traces of it survive here and there. But although Roman Catholics were first in the field, hard upon them have followed the clergy and ministers of the Protestant denominations. The Presby- terians have been especially active, and the Church of England and others have manfully entered into the work. Although in the long-settled portions it may be expected that the contributions of local Churchmen shall suffice, yet there are not funds enough to send ministers to the scattered abodes of men in the back- woods and in the new clearings on the fringes of the provinces. Much work of the highest importance is done by the missionary agencies of the various Churches, and such societies as the British American Book and Tract Society, whose agents scatter copies of the Bible and New Testament, tracts, and religious books, over the widely separated villages of the Maritime provinces ; and this agency is largely and liberally aided by The Religious Tract Society of London, who do not confine their aid to any one channel, but also help to the full extent of their power all sections of the Protestant Churches in their efforts to bring all British North America under the power of the Gospel of Christ. In the lumber-men's camp, among the great gangs of labourers on the railroads, in the isolated colonist's log-hut, the visits of the representatives of the Church are eagerly looked for and warmly welcomed. It is therefore a duty on the part of Christian people in Great Britain to assist in giving their countrymen in Canada that needed aid without which rural work cannot be carried on by the Church in the Dominion. The labours of many of the bishops and missionaries is indeed very great. They are obliged to be perpetually on the move in order to attend to pastoral duties in outlying places. Long and weary journeys have to be undertaken, and it is not possible to visit all the numerous stations during the best time of year for travelling. Often winter storms must be faced, and wrapped in what warm clothing he may have, the minister of the Gospel must keep his appointment, in spite of all difficulties of weather and distance. A friend of mine, a bishop in Ontario, travelling alone in a gig, and driving his horse, found himself one evening, when the cold had become intense, so benumbed that he could not hold the reins. He got out and ran, but when again seated the numbness returned, and he finally lost consciousness, his last recollection being that he had no feeling of pain from the cold, but of great weariness. The horse pursued his way, his unconscious master retaining his seat in the half-covered vehicle. The animal stopped, after what must have been the lapse of two or three hours, at a small wooden house, and the settler, coming out, found the bishop frozen and apparently dead. He was brought in and revived with great difficulty, the frozen limbs being rubbed with snow and the coldest water. My friend M I ! ■ I 82 Canadian Pictures. described his return to life as the most agonising experience. The pain was intolerable. His face, eyes, and limbs were racked with torture, and he never quite recovered the effects of that night drive. There are still immense tracts in this province, as well as in many other provinces, where similar sufferings might be endured unless precautions are taken. But, to have proper precautions, it is necessary that the number of workers should be largely increased and more abundant funds supplied, for the means of travelling, as well as for the alleviation of the many wants constantly brought to their notice among the poorest of their widely-distributed flocks. Each man gladly contributes what he can to the comfort of his visitor, but all he can do is to provide him food and lodging, and he can often give nothing for his support except when under his own roof. Money must be got elsewhere, that there may be a man to pay the visit which is so welcome. None of the Churches are rich, although the Roman Catholics in certain parts of the countr)' have good endowments. The Anglican Church now shares with its brethren the provision made in early days for the sustenance of the clergy ; but the amount is small when looked at with the expanding needs of half a continent, and the constant calls for men and the erection of buildings. Everywhere it is the clergy who are seen taking the lead ; and although primary education is usually given to mix^d classes of children of all denominations, the colleges and academies are often under the ministers of religion, while there are large numbers of divinity students under instruction. The devotion shown by the mass of the men who have entered into the min- istry is very admirable, and they are led by good officers. The present Bishop of Algoma gave up all that a worldly man most values in place, pay, and society to take up the work in his wild diocese along the north of Lake Superior and the Georgian Bay of Huron. In Canada, as in Africa and the South Seas, the Gospel of Christ has won victories over ignorance and sin. The preaching of redemption through the death of Christ on the Cross has touched and cleansed savage hearts, and the Indian manifests, no less than the white man, the power of the Spirit of God. The Ojibbeway Indians were the most numerous people along these shores. Heathen savages as most of them are still, the labours of the mission have met with very fair success, and on Mamtonlin Island there is a flourishing community of native Christians. A touching story was told to us of a squaw, the wife of one of the chiefs. She had wandered too near the edge of the shore-ice at a time when thaws had loosened it. The block on which she stood parted from the rest, and a wind carried it out into the open water. She was found dead from the cold, but her last care had been for her baby, and it was found to have perished also, but had been covered by the mother with everything she had which might give it warmth ; and when she had herself lain down in the icy blast to die, she had arranged her body so that even in death it might be a shelter for her infant against the storm. The " Fair " at Toron-^o. 83 In respect of scientific and practical value, the meteorological office at Toronto may be accounted a worthy neighbour of the university, near whose buildmgs it stands. To the meteorologists come every three hours telegraphic messages from all parts of the North American continent. These record the temperature and barometric pressure at each place at the moment of sending the despatch. The officer marks on the copy of the continental map used for the day a line showing where these pressures and temperatures are alike. When the next despatches arrive, fresh lines are drawn, indicating the movements of the atmospheric wave, and in this manner it is possible to foretell for the next twenty-four hours with great certainty the course of storms, and the weather to be expected at any given point. This admirable system has already saved thousands of lives. From the tower of the university an excellent view may be had of the lake, whose shipping is guarded by the signals drawn from the science thus admirably employed. We see that the land rises to low elevations two or three miles back from the town, which spreads along the shore. The country is devoid of any marked feature, presenting a slope towards the water so gentle that it seems a flat expanse. Buildings are rapidly extending in all directions. There are men now living who remember the place when it was " muddy little York " —a mere shore-clearing with a good deal of marsh and some fever along the sedge-covered bank ; and very justly proud the Toronto men are of these recollections, for the Queen City, as they love to call it, is steadily growing in importance. They can boast of a large and cultivated society, counting among Its members names of eminence in letters, art, and science. Its factories employ thousands of skilful workmen. Nowhere is the abundance of wood turned to better account. The cheap furniture manufactured here is excellent, while taste and wealth find ornamental inlaid " marqueterie " and first-rate joiners' work in the more expensive kinds of " household effects." The so-called " fair " or exhibition of the products of the city and surrounding country, held every year in September, forms a good gauge of this centre of a population of over 2,000,000. Very interesting is it to see the objects most demanded by the people set out in order, either beneath spacious roofs or outside on the neatly-kept lawns. School benches, school desks and school books, take up much place, showing how dear to the whole community are the means of in- struction and the comfort of the children while attending the excellent educational establishments. Good pianos and organs send their music forth, and the com- petition among these, although satisfactory in a trade aspect of their rivalry, is not quite so satisfactory when looked at from a musical standpoint. Houses built of soap show that cleanliness, which we all know is next to godliness, is not neglected. Parquet floors of beautiful woods remind us of the wealth at once of the forests and of the citizens. Well-bound works prove that the public and lending libraries have not effaced the laudable custom of keeping a private treasure-store of knowledge. The white semi-translucent cakes and bars and columns of stearine, that is, of the refined wax of petroleum, demonstrate, along M 2 84 (;!anai)1an Picturks. l! with the long phials of the clear oil, that we need not go to the States for the best illuminating agents. It is not many years since oil was struck in Western Ontario. Some of the borings are now very productive. A rock filled with oil, as a sponge is filled with water, is reached by boring-machines at a certain depth, and up wells the seemingly exhaustless supply of petroleum. It is believed that it is derived from the remains of creatures which lived in past ages in countless numbers, and dying, have their substance preserved in this form. Lucky creatures, to be able to confer such benefits millions of years after their demise ! How many of the human myriads around us will be giving light of any kind millions of years hence ? In the meantime they can be happy enough in Canada without speculating on the chance of illuminating the beings of far-off ages. It is evident that their thoughts are at present much occupied with the proper housing and care of flocks and herds. Professor Tanner speaks thus of Ontarian agriculture to an English audience : — " The practice of agriculture has here received great care and attention, and there is just cause for satisfaction at the success which has been attained. The special influence of soil and climate have under skilful management secured results which are in some respects in advance of those obtainable in England. I must not, however, be supposed to convey to you the idea that agriculture is here free from difficulties, for such is not the fact. Agricultural products differ so widely in character, and in their requirements for successful growth, that those conditions which are favourable for some crops are proportionately unfavourable for others. We must not expect in any district to secure advantages which are wisely distributed, and we shall see, within the limits of the Dominion of Canada, that the special agricultural excellences of different sections of the country act and re-act upon each other, with marked advantage to the general prosperity of that great colony. " There are impediments at present existing which prevent Ontario from taking high rank as a wheat-producing district. Under specially favourable conditions the produce rises to thirty-five bushels per acre, as in the case of the farm belonging to the Guelph Agricultural College, although it is situated 900 feet above the Lake Ontario. In very favourable seasons, and under the stimulating influence of artificial manure, crops of forty-five bushels per acre are secured, but the average crop may be fairly taken as ranging about twenty bushels per acre. As good cultivation advances, this average will no doubt be raised ; but variations in climate make themselves felt here, as well as with ourselves. Any decrease in the fall of snow, leaving the autumn wheat unprotected, any imprudent clearing away cf woodland shelter, and any severe winter winds, exercise a very , punishing influence upon the wheat crop. In this way the plant is decreased, and the thin condition of the crop in the spring prevents a full average crop being secured at harvest. Up to AaKicuLTUHk IN Ontario. 85 the present time the use of the spring wheat has not satisfactorily overcome the difficulty, but there is much to encourage renewed efforts in this direction. In any case, I do not think that the older provinces of Canada are likely to become large producers of wheat for export purposes, although, as more farm- yard manure is added to the land, and greater care is taken in a judicious breeding of the seed-wheat used, the produce will be largely increased. The Cedar Bay, near Ottawa. character and quality of the produced differs in a marked that grown in the north-west, a fine flour, distinguished by an abundance of starch, which makes useful for blending with stronger wheat. "The growth of barley does not appear to be accompanied difficulties. An average of forty bushels per acre appears to be many farms, but thirty bushels would be a safe general average. wheat here degree from for it yields it especially with similar secured on The barley 86 Canadian Picturks. crop, being also more reliable and less subject to injury than wheat, is being more largely cultivated. The culture of the oat crop is in some districts carried out very successfully. It is said that as much as ninety bushels per acre have been grown, but thirty-five bushels may be taken as a fair average. Here again a prudent selection of seed effects a marked difference in the yield of the crop. By the judicious growth of seed corn, the produce of these provinces might be greatly increased, and I think it may be safely said that English farmers would inaterially improve the yield of each of these varieties of grain. The plain fact is that the numberless variations of climate and soil which cause so much diffi- culty with us, compel our farmers to think and reflect upon these impediments, and they have consequently gained important experience in doing so ; and this practical experience becomes especially valuable in a country like Canada. There is too often a want of finish observable about their agricultural operations, and it is perfectly natural it should be so. Where land is abundant, and yields good crops under a rough-and-ready system of farming, the higher care which is absolutely necessary in agricultural districts which have been long under the plough is not so urgently required. Higher skill and more perfect systems of culture are, however, very valuable, even when nature is most abundant in her provisions. This is clearly shown upon the farm of the Agricultural College at Guelph, where the wheat, oats, and barley range from 40 to 50 per cent, above the average of the surrounding district. As the pupils of this institution become settled upon farms in Ontario and the adjoining provinces, so we find improved results being secured. " The cultivation of Indian corn is carried out largely and successfully ; but here again the measure of success is greatly determined by the seed being properly acclimatised by being grown in the district one year before being used for seed. By thus keeping up comparatively fresh supplies of seed-corn, the crop is secured in its highest perfection. Indian corn is not only largely grown for the production of corn, but it is also very extensively used for fodder pur- poses. As the practice of preserving this fodder in silos becomes more largely carried out, still greater advantages will arise from the cultivation of this crop, and it will become a cheaper source of food than is now obtained by the growth of root crops. The cultivation which the root crops receive is fairly satisfactory, and whenever they are well managed the general produce of these farms is con- siderably increased. It seems to indicate a better general system of manage- ment, which indirectly leads up to more satisfactory results, quite as much as the direct advantages arising from the production of the root crops as food supplies. " A very large portion of the older settled provinces is well adapted for the successful production of meat and dairy produce. There is a steadily increasing number of thorough-bred cattle and sheep, and the influence of well- bred stock is becoming more generally acknowledged and acted upon. Those who are raising beef and mutton Tor export purposes, soon find that attention to Dairy Produck and Fruit Culture. 87 this detail of management is absolutely essential for success. It must, how- ever, be acknowledged that there is still room for a more general adoption of better-bred stock, even where the advantages are now admitted. It i' one of the usual consequences arising from easy success that we become indifferent to the attainment of the full measure of prosperity we might command. Without wishing to speak with any undue partiality for the farmers of Great Britain, I am still bound to acknowledge my conviction that they would make decidedly larger profits upon Canadian soil than are now made in that country, even by the more successful amongst the cultivators of that land. There is just that want of careful finish about the general conduct of the work which leaves a margin for greater profits being secured. "In the cultivation of fruit, Canada takes a leading position for the high quality of its produce. Unfortunately, however, this is one for which she gets far less credit than she deserves. Nearly all the Canadian fruit reaches us under the general description of American fruit, and consequently the United States popularly receives the credit for the fruit sent from both countries. This may appear to be a matter of small importance, but it is far otherwise. Fruit which is so grown that it has attained a rich and luscious condition, with a powerful natural aroma, indicates two very important conditions of growth, a good soil and a good climate, coupled with skilful management. Upwards of ;^90,ooo worth of fruit was exported from Canada in 1882. In the Ust Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society of England (xxxviii.), Mr. Whitehead gives a very able article upon fruit farming, from which the following quotation will be interesting: 'Very fine apples are grown in Ontario, better, it is alleged by Canadians, than those that are grown in the United States. . . . Canadian apples have undoubtedly a great reputation in the English markets. Not only do the Canadians exercise the greatest skill in the cultivation of apples, but they understand the art of storing them.' " But to return to our exhibition. A quantity of wire of various patterns curiously barbed is shown to the passer-by. This is to fence in the pastures. Outside we can see plenty of fine stock. High-priced cattle are being shown, many of them but lately imported from England. There are many splendid horses, used for the trotting-track, for general purposes, as beasts of draught, or for riding and carriages. The display of machinery for the farm is of amazing completeness, and showing implements for the saving of that labour which, fortunately for the labourer, commands so good a price. We have but little time to admire the great show of carriages, of poultry, and of honey. Other fairs are being held in every considerable town throughout the country. The epidemic of fairs is a wholesome one, and let us hope that the value and variety of objects, already so great, will annually increase. One kind of exhibition common to all towns should never be neglected by the visitor, and this is the food market. Here also he will get much insight into the habits of the country folk, and the kinds of fish and fowl to be found in the ?ii: I 111 8S Canadian Pictukes. land. He will note that the j^rain is chiefly wheat, and very good wheat is still raised in Ontario. I say still, for it has become so much the fashion to speak of the wonderful crops of the newer country, that there is some danger lest justice be not done to the more settled parts. It is true that the soil does not yield what it once yielded, when the woods were first cleared, but this is only because people were wastefully neglecting to use manures. Many a farmer has continually cropped his furrows without giving anything back to them ; but better customs have now been introduced, for a gradual impoverishment was neces- sarily visible under the old system, or rather want of system. But it is an ill-wind that blows nobody good, and harum-scarum agriculture, and consequent loans borrowed from trust companies, have sent many a good man on his march to the west, thus leaving a vacant place for the British settler, who finds the land still in good heart, and facilities in school and church neighbourhood which make the old homestead a place to be eagerly purchased. Another grain much used is rye, and the whisky usually drunk is made of this. It is not so strong as that familiar to the Scot and Irishman, and sometimes the refuse of the still is given to cattle, which thrive well upon it. Buckwheat is also largely grown, and much of what is emphatically called "corn," namely, the maize. This is seen of a golden and of a white colour, and rarely of a black tint. Of roots we have any number, of gigantic proportions ; if it be the autumn season, baskets full of many varieties of wild cranberries and blueberries, or, as they are called, " huckleberries," of delicious flavour. Fruits abound, grapes and sweet water-melons being of good quality ; and most interesting of all, to the sportsman, is the supply of game, fish, and birds. There are salmon, but they probably come from streams more distant than the city of Quebec. There are trout, and some of these are very fine, from the lakes to the north ; and there is another species of the order of Salmonidce, which has white flesh, and scales rather of a grey colour than of a silvery tinge. This is the famous white-fish, common to all the great inland fresh waters, and one of the best fish in the world for the table. Mightiest of its kind is the sturgeon, and there are many of these. Oddly enough, the taste for its roe, called caviare in Europe, has never developed itself here, and although, from a London, Paris, or St. Petersburg experience, a person would suppose that it would be eagerly sought and prepared, nothing is done to bring it into the market. Black bass, a capital game fish, must not be overlooked. There they are fresh from the swirling currents of the great river, in which at certain seasons they rise fast to the fly. Specimens may be seen of the ouaniche, or so-called land-locked salmon. Theory says that these are salmon which have been unable to get back to the sea, and have acclimatised themselves to their altered conditions, and have become peaceable but voracious citizens of the fresh water. Be that as it may, they are a very acceptable addition to an inland dinner, for they are five to eight pounds in weight, and of excellent flavour. Of wild fowl there is a great variety. The most striking to the stranger's Wild Fowl in Ontario. 89 imagination is the wild turkey- now becoming every day more rare— a fine bird, with its beautiful bronze plumajje. A somewhat distant excursion has to be undertaken to procure them, but they are still numerous in pdrts of the country, and were as common as is the wood-jrrousc or its darker and smaller cousin the "spruce partridge." There are woodcocks in long strings; but the bird is smaller and redder than that known in England. They and snipe are common, and they are to be met with until you get far west. There, strangely enough, their flight seemed stopped by the mountains, and it is declared that no woodcock live on the Pacific coast. I once met a man who said he had seen one in Oregon, but his story was frowned upon by his friends, and he confessed he had not shot the bird. Yet the " Pacific slope" would appear to be the best part of the whole continent for these worm-feeders, for there the ground fringing the sea is hardly ever frozen, and their long bills could be thrust into an abiding paradise of mud. Such fastidiousness in locality is inexplicable. The ducks have no such peculiarities. The members of their family are among the widest rangers known to ornithology. Many are common to liurope, Asia, and America. Indeed, like most of th(r birds which breed in the sub-Arctic regions, they find land over which they can journey southwards over the greater part of the northern hemisphitre. If even Laiiland buntings and the snow-finch, with their small power of flight, can make themselves at home on both continents, why not the stronger-winged ducks ? Still, there are some which are not known in England. The little teal, with the blue on their wing-coverts, is one of these. The red-head and his congener, the canvas-back, although seen in the London poulterers' shops, are not native, nor is the dusky or black duck. The canvas- back is supposed to be the best ; but where there is abundance of wild celery and wild rice, on which the birds may feed, there is no great difference. The celery grows so well if transplanted, and spreads so rapidly, that we may expect to have the English park-fed ducks have the flavour hitherto considered the peculiarity of the Canadian and American rivers and lakes. Loveliest of all is the summer or wood duck, with his iridescent head with hanging plumes, his white markings like a harness of snow, and his maroon-tinged breast. Some of the best duck-shooting to be had in the world may be enjoyed along the northern shores of the great lakes, and the marshes which in places are formed along the low coasts of Ontario and Erie are among the favourite feeding-grounds of the ducks when they halt for a few days' rest on their autumn migration to the south. There is one long promontory, twenty miles in length, which juts out into Lake Erie, and is called Long Point. This ground has been taken by a club, who have a charter from the Ontario Government, enabling them to preserve the game. The head-quarters of the club are situated several miles from the further end of the curious narrow ridge of land and marsh which forms the territory which is the property of the members. It is reached by steamer from Port Dover, and the voyager sees as he starts nothing but the blue horizon of the lake before Iiim. By and by dots are seen on the N % I! 90 Canadian Pictures. surface of the water, and on nearing them they are seen to be trees standinir on the Jiighesc ground of Long Point. Far as Jie eye can see on either hand aie great beds of high reeds ; among these stands a httle village, consisting of the sportsmen's huts, placed, like the houses of the old lake-dwellers, on platforms supported on piles driven into the shallow water. The platforms are connected by wooden causeways. Each morning the members breakfast in a common room, and draw lots for the stations each shall occupy during the day. Then, getting into their punts, each sportsman proceeds with his punter and his wooden decoy birds to his allotted place. The pole man shoves the light boat across the rustling beds of wild rice, and after half an hour'3 labour, during which time the duchs rise on each side from the thick mass of sedge around, an open place is reached. The decoys are then carefully scattered within easy gunshot, some sedges are pulled and stuck upright round the gunwales of the boat, which thus, completely concealed, looks like a natural tuft of sedge in the bare space of water. The birds now rise quickly, for other guns are at work, and teal .'n flights and the other ducks singly or in small parties are constantly flying over head, seeking where they may again settle in safety, and seeing the decoys they swoop down, and it is not uncommon for one gun to bag over 100 birds during the day. Although Long Point is reserved, there are plenty of other places where similar sport may be enjoyed. Before we quit the subject of the natural history 6f Ontario, a word should be said about the animal which has been adopted as a national crest for Canada, namely, the beaver. On the Canadian union jack he is seen at work, ?nd fitly wreathed with a circle of maple leaves. For any one curious to s^e the labours of the beaver, a journey to the backwoods is necessary ; but on thousands of streams their operations are yet visible, although the trapper has greatly dimin- ished the numbers of the Castor Americantts. There is only one other larger rodent animal now living, and that is the capybara of South America. The average weight of a beaver is about thirty pounds. The length of the body is usually forty inches, and the tail has a length of nine inches, with a circumference of eight. The fur is long, with a thick under-down, which is exposed by the plucking out of the longer hairs when the skin is sold for trade purposes. It is easy i.o see where the beast has been at work, for if a back-water or small stream be traced up its course it will be found barbed across at certain intervals by embankments made of mud, branches, or large slicks and scattered stones. The water stands at different levels in these chains of artificially- broadened reaches. The dam js usually so constructed that a lower space ii^; left in the centre, so that the water may run through without injuring the dyke on either side. The stems of the branches are laid as a rule up stre?m, and they are .so interlaced and filled in with mud that it is occasionally possible to drive a waggon over the h.ird-pressed earthwork of an old dam. In reaches containing islands I have seen the island cut clean thj-ough by a water-ditch, so that the animals and their young could swim from, the pool on one side of the island to that on Id O 3 n V 2 A Beaver Village. 93 the other. It is remarkable that although a regular system of embankments may be seen, showing that work must have been continued on them so as to keep them in repair and add to them for very many years, one family alone is usually seen in possession of an extensive lacustrine domain. Their habitation is probably placed in some large pond near the centre or upper portion of the series of works. A beehive-shaped mound is seen rising above the water and covered with sticks. The entrances to it are often three feet below the water level, and the reason of the care taken to repair the dams is to be found in the necessity of preventing the surface of the pond becoming so low as to leave bare the entrances in summer droughts, or to close them with ice in winter. There are usually two sub-aqueous entrances six to ten feet in length. An inclined plane leads up to the chamber, which is often six or seven feet in length, and of a round or oval shap'J. The floor of this little hall is made hard, and is raised a few inches above the pools level. The height from floor to roof is at most eighteen inches. The passages leading outwards are but just wide enough to allow one animal at a time to pass, and the course of one of the corridors is made straight, so as to allow of the provision of green sticks being brought^ into store in the central chamber. These sticks, after having been peeled of bark, are used for roofing or on the dams. It is said that the roof is sufficiently porous to allow of some ventilation, and that the snow on the top of " the lodge " is melted by the heated breath of the animals rising through the roof, the summit of which is not, like the sides, thickly plastered. Sometimes the beavers burrow in overhanging banks, and the arrangements are then much the same. As with the English badger, grass is carried into the abode for bedding. There is no sleeping through the winter months as with bears, so that the beaver must lay in sufficient nourish- ment for the whole of the season when snow is deep on the ground. He seems to thrive upon the wood as well as the bark, and it is not only to keep his teeth in proper order that he undertakes to cut down and carve round with wedge-shaped incisions sticks and standing trees. These last he sometimes fells in order to help him in his dam-making. Often he makes heaps of brush in the water, fixing the ends in the mud, as though to make a store outside of his house in the water. Sometimes the use of the canals they dig is not apparent. These are cut from a lake and run up into the land as far as the flat ground extends, sometimes for hundreds of feet. It has been supposed that this is to give them a frontage along the hard-wood groves, so that when beavers cut trees and bush they may transport the parts they can carry by water. Stones they are said to carry with their paws if small, and roll or push the larger ones with shoulders or tail. We must trust to the Indians for observation of the animal, for it is extremely difficult to watch them. Another way in which the earth and stuff is reported to be taken is to load the tail, as a workman would a hod for his mate. I confess that I shall not believe this until i see it done. They have several young at a birth, and the little ones ii,-; I) ' ill 94 Canadian 1*ictuui:s. tako, after ;i few weeks, to feeclinnr on bark, and the parents are reported never to allow tluMii to remain in the old lodore for more than two summers after birth, so that it is rare to fnul as many as ten in one house. The natives will tell you that lazy members of the family who will not work are driven forth into exile, and thest; outcasts are called " bank beavers," because they leail a solitary life, ami live in holes on the river sitle. They are probably individuals of an independent turn of mind, who desire to have time for relleetion and travel before they choose a wife and undertake all the cares of housekeepiujr and the consecjuent resi)onsibilities. The Canadian, like the beaver, loves to pair, and to pair when younjj;. He too travels much and lumbers often. Each of them works hard and happily in the healthy winters of his native land. Hoth of them are I'ond of turniuir the water "privileges" which so co[)iously abound throughout tlu-ir vast territories to the utmost use. We see therefore that the beaver is appropriately found sharing the honours of the national blazt)n. Near Port Dover is the ])rospering town of St. Thomas, dignified with the title of "city." a n mv; givtni to all towns in Ontario which have a population over 10,000. The country in its neighbourhood is like that of a great part of the; peninsula between lu-ie and Huron. Very fertile, and originally covereil with a fme growth of maple and other hard-wood trees, it has now been carved out into excellent farms, occupied by people mainly Scots and English in descent. The whole of this part of the country furnishes a type of the best parts of Ontario's magnificent province; easy railway communication ; enterprise and energy circulating through village, town and city ; healthy rural and thickly settled townshi[)s, sending their ^bronzed and manly farmers to the markets which give them their fu-st markets; a measured and widely distributed condition of conifort, visible in the number of wheeled private vehicles, of horses, cattle, pigs, sheei) and poultry -at all points the school-house, the church, and tlu- evitlences of the care for law and order. Who with heart, muscle, and brains, would not esteem his lot a hajipy one if cast among such a people and in such a country ? London, called after its great namesake, is not far off They who sigh for the original will find a lovely river called the Thames, a Hyde Park, a St. Paul's Church, and, if low spirits supervene on seeing that these are not quite so dingy as at home, they may cun? their spleen by a conscientious course of white sulphur baths, which London, (i. H. (C.reat Britain) has not! Here are a great number of factories, turning out refined petroleum, iron manufiotures, agricultural machines, mills, breweries, leather fabrics, aiul carriagx^s. with many more n;siilts, the products of the industry ofa!)out 20,000 people. Ingersoll, Gueli)h, Woodstock, Stratford, Whitby, Walkerti)wn, although smaller, are busy centres, having populations of from ten to five thousaiul. In or around each is plenty of room for emigrants from tlu? Old World. Cheese- making is an art on which some of these places much pride themselves, and with justice ; for although the American and Canadian cheese has not yet seriously V t a 4 s< C n a a West i: UN Ontario. 95 incnaced the sale of Cheshire chees. , ihe hoaie ranner must look to his laurels if he does not wish to be distanced in his own market. Guelph has an admirable Airricultural Collej^e, where instruction in the theory and practice of farmmg is g.vcn to a number of students. Collincrvvood, Owen .Sound, and Harne are towns m the north-west of the province, on or near the Georgian Hay. Ncwmark(;t should be mentioneil with them, if only because people make money there instead of losing it. as they do at its Cambridgeshire namesake Around these places the country is generally more broken into low hill and fruitful dale, and near Harrie the pine or fir takes the place of the hard-wood treses of the south. Lake Simcoe, on the banks of which the last-mentioned city stands, is a fine sheet of watcM", now well provided with steamers To enumerate all the Ontario towns must be a task left to the guide-books, of (iARUINKK CaNAI.. which there is an unfailing and excellent local supply. \\'e have hardly space to do them justice, but Bi-lleville. Cobourg. and Hamilton, must not be passed over, for the two first are most charming places on the north of Ontario's lake, and the last, which is m^ar Niagara, is a very important place, having about 40,000 people, who an; determined to make their cit\- rivrd Toronto, h is the seat of a Roman Catholic and of an Anglican bishopric. There is a considerable German element here; but where tlie children of the Fatherland are most numerous is at lierlin, where it is usually found that all the municipal officers are Germans. It is much to be desired, seeing how satisfied their countrymen are with their ,. . ;hat more Germans should go to Canada instead of to the States. No one travelling through Ontario, and observing the manner in which its 96 Canadian Pictures. wide surface is now so thickly studded with people, can fail to marvel at the work wrought in so short a space of time. The whole settlement of the country only began with the flight of the American Tories, or, as they were called, " United Empire Loyalists," at the time of the war of the Revolution. Born in hardship and suffering, the life of the province has exhibited an ever-increasing energy and success. Uiu The Wapiti. It the untry ailed, )rn in asing QUEBEC. o f I If Id U X w e< S H i', O o H 3 o o X H H 7) a H O o •A H H 3 o Id U Mn^ Quebec. CHAPTER VI. <^Ui:i!KC. (,)UKHl.;c FkuM Tins lIl:i(;lir.S OK AhKAIIAM-Mo.NTMUkliNCI Kai.^ ,■,, J!..i.,DlNos-T„E IROQUOIS lND,ANS-T..F !< RrNr r P.li, ^ P '''^' '''■- "" ^"^'"'■'' '''' '7S9-EARI.Y -Tl.E MCG.I... UMVERSITV-T.IE WiNTLK cIrv, ., 7 .r LaWRENCE-THE PORCUP.NE-MoNTREAL LIE \\i.MEKCAR.MVA..-lcEllARVESTiNG-LAcRossE-THE Victoria Bridge. ID EFORE quitting the old provinces let us take a look from another height U on a scene celebrated m story and in song. We look down this thne from no elevation guarded and crowned with verdure and forest, but from a giat cl.ff crcled With ramparts, which defend a citadel fashioned indeed accordTn^ wrought m heavy masonry, but yet even now, and against modern arms a Steamers are there from many a European port, and a large fleet of sailing merchantmen crowd the wharves and coves along the shor?, where they arf loadn.g w,th t.mbcr. On a point of land formed by the wedglshaped S and O 2 lOO Canadian I'ictukks. '<"' Hi alonjjf its flanks, is crowded a considerable town, the houses built chiefly of stone, and the roofs covered with plates dipped in tin, which makes them shine like silver in the sun. There are here many churches and reJij^ious buildinj^'s, from which at mornin^r and evening the sound of many bells rises. To the right the eye looks over leagues of country until it rests upon some low and distant hills, which we are told are near the American frontier. Helow the city, across the great river, we see the northern shore upon the left, shining green and gold. It is dotted with many white houses, and beyond is a background of mountains whose azure colouring is often broken with tints of green, when the sun brings out in stronger relief some shining forest-covered slope, for all these mountains are covered with wood even to the very summits. A white patch in the cliff- line of the shore shows where a hill-torrent leaps in foam over a height greater than that of the l'"alls of Niagara, to the sea-like river beneath. The scene we are looking at is that which met the eyes of Wolfe, before he fell in the moment of victory on the famous I'lains of Abraham, and this fortress city is Ouebec. Hut girt as it is with rampart and embrasure, with bastion and ancient cannon, modern Quebec gives more attention to arts than to arms. Hut the "arts "are those of learning, and not of painting or of sculpture. In the tall pile surmounted by the lantern towers which dominate all but the citadel, we see the university called after the Archbishop Laval.; There is here a large .school of medicine ; anil theology, law, mathematics, and the classics have each their followers. The students' dress, usually so sombre, is agreeably relieved when they attend the classes by long coloured ribbons, denoting the faculty to wliich each man belongs. There is a good library and museum, and ample lodging for the students. The building is joined to several more, the cathedral, the archbishop's palace, antl the seminary or high school being all connected, so that one can traverse some miles of corridor without emerging into the open air. One end of the great terrace is not a hundred yards from the archbishop's abode, the other ending only under the walls of the citadel. No city has a more charming promenade, or one where a purer air and a more striking view may be enjoyed. As you descend into the streets and listen to the talk of the people, you will hear sometimes an Irish accent, but as a rule the language spoken will be the tongue of Old I'Vance. It is not the speech of the Paris of to-day, but it is the speech heard among the fishermen who visit our English coasts from the neighbouring shores of Normandy and Hrittany. Their race, represented at the time of our conquest of Ouebec by a bare si.xly thousand, counts now over a million and a quarter. Their increase is so rapid that they have invaded like a Hood the old l*iu-itan districts of New England, in many of which the Puritan Church and congregation have wholly vanished, to give place to the richer ritual favoured by the Romish i-eligion. The number of children in the villages around is indeed astonishing. It is said that as it is the custom of the country to give the twenty-si.vth part of everything to the Church, the twenty- ScKNERY IN Tirr. Kasif.rn Townships. lOI sixth chilli of the family is oftt:n the portion of the parish priest! It is a thoroujrhly loyal and contented community— loyal to a system which rtispects the old treatic;s that in the day of the conquest of the province of (Juebec assured to the I-rcnch race their laws, their institutions, and their laiij,niage. 'Ihey demand little, and are not so restless as the people of our stock, who keup perpetually pressin^r westward, in hopes of gre.Uer ^'ain. It would indeed be a sad thm^r if all the people were to rush away to the west, and leave the beautiful shores of the St. Lawrence depopulated. To be sure, the land will not novv produce much wheat, and the crops chielly raised are buckwheat, potatoes, and oats ; but all kinds of fruit belongin^r to a northern climate are grown. The l-rench Canadian is a wise man to be content to remain in his home, in the country where the institutions he loves are carefully preserved, where the church in which he worships is ministered to by a prii-sthood sinj,niiarly earnest and pure, and where he will not be disturbed by the competition of many Americans, English, or Scotch. It is well for us that, instead of being a desert, the littoral of the St. Lawrence is garrisoned for us by a poi)ulation so orderly, contented, hardy, and enduring. Among them also we find the toleration in' religious matters (as shown in the education of the young) which prevails amongst their fellow countrymen in Ontario. Here the Roiiian Catholics have a large majority, and even a more extended toleration prevails, for all Protestant denominations may have the school assessment devoted to their use, if thev have to provide for a certain number of children. There are districts in this province where there are still a large number who speak English, as, for instance, the portion of the country near the frontier of Vermont, known by the name of the " Eastern Townshii)s." The scenery there is singularly attractive, and its lascinations, together with the good quality of the soil, have been sufficient to prevent the exodus to the west which has been so remarkable elsewhere. But for the visitor on pleasure bent there is no better residence than Quebec itself. Its neighbourhood has everything which makes a landscape beautiful ; great rivers and lakes, fine forests, waterfalls, valleys full of cultivated farms, lofty hills, and happy villages in turn delight the eye. For ten or twelve days in succession it is on each day possible to make an excursion in a different direction, and it is difficult to determine which road is the most beautiful. I here are fair roads traversing the country on both sides of the river and along its banks. Steam ferry-boats make the transit of carriages and horses vixsy The clean little inns, neatly kept by the thrifty Canadian housewives, invite the traveller to luncheon, where he may enjoy the trout he has caught in the lake during the morning, or feast in a grove of maple on syrup of that tree, eaten as a relish to the wholesome buckwheat bread, or he may prefer the well-made pancakes of his hostess, and the dish of freshly-plucked wild strawberries. In the winter there is peculiar tobogganing to be enjoyed at Montmorenci. The spray from the falls gradually freezes as the cold increases, until in January there is a huge cone of ice. seventy or eightv feet high. Steps are rut in the ice I I02 CANAfJfAN I'll TURKS. if there be not enou«:h snow to make the ascent easy. Little sledges (itted with two nietal-clad runners, and long enouKdi to allow the greater part of the body to he on them, are prejjared. A companion used to the exercise shows the way and lymg down like a seal, shoots instantly out of sight over the dome of the Ice-cone, and almost instantly after- wards is seen gliding rapidly with the im- petus of his fall away over the frozen flat below. It is difficult tor a beginner not to feel a little nervous at first, but once the venture has been made, there are few who do not wish to repeat it again and again. Although many are found to enjoy this favourite pastime, Ouebecers are heard with a sigh of regret to recall the days when the presence of a garrison of liritish regulars supplied numbers of young men who could devote their days to such amusements, and very gay were the parties whose members flew down the white slopes uiitii evening came, and time was founJ lur a Jance and supper at a country audcroc ,.,,.,, , , before the homeward s eigh drive had to be undertaken over the moonlit fields of the shore-ice of the frozen Sr. Lawrence. In the daN>. v. h. ,i the cannon of Wolfe were [)lanted on the river cliff opposite to the city, > -iJ l.is batteries sought to enfilade the French defences l)y fire from MONTMORLNCI KaI.LS. I'HI: CaI'IIIUI; (ih QuilHllC. '03 of the further side of the I'alls of Montinorenci, the houses were gathered within the old town h'nes, which still exist, and have recently had their walls and embrasures re-faced with masonry, not for purposes of d(rft.-nce, hut to preserve a striking feature which is not elsewhere to be found on this ;,ide of the " Big Water." A few citizens only dwelt outside of these ; but one of them was a very important personage. The Royal Intendant had a palace for his own use on the flat banks of the bay into which the St. Charles flows. He was a civil officer sent out by the Government of Versailles, nominally to work with, but too often to check, the military governor. If the two were friends, affairs were well conducted, and the colony throve ; but if the two officers disagreed, and the intendant was a rogue, his opportunities to enrich himself and beggar the community were used with disastrous (;ffect. Tradition declares that Higot was the worst of these offenders, and that he consjiired with the people of influence in the corrupt French court of the day. An indifference in regard to the proper supply of equipment for the use of the garrisons was the result. Montcalm's heart was broken by the treatment accorded to him, for the soldiers were allowed to remain in want of /ua/i'nW o( war. It was wonderful that he maile the fight he offered against the English general. Let us go back to that year of 1759, and imagine the scene. The white flag with the golden lilies floats over the citadel above the town, and on the highlands at the back, as well as over the intrenchments in the valley to the north, and along seven miles of the northern shore. At all other points the red, white and blue of the Union Jack is seen. On the wide waters of the great river, a numerous fleet of transports and men of war fly that ensign only. Of I'Vench vessels there are none. Hut the puffs of smoke from the long lines of the English are steadily answered by the concentrated cannon of the fortress and the isolated guns on the Heauport earthworks. Once already have the invaders tried that point, and a heavy loss and a retreat to the ships was the result of an eagerness which led one brigade to attack before the other detailed for the duty could properly support it. Hut that day of a hot July showed that the Canadian peasant with his " fusil " could take very good aim, and the fight- ing has been bitter but resultless since then, for only small numbers have met. So savage, however, is the temper of the men on each side, that the horrible custom of scalping the deid or wounded has been borrowed from the Indians. It is necessary to issue a general order on this subject in the Hritish camp, and the fiat goes forth that the troops are not to take the scalps of their white opponents ! By August and the beginning of September, the buildings exposed to the eighteen and twenty-four pounder round shot and the shells from the ships are grievously battered, whole streets being mere crumbling ruins. The .season is late, and November will not give a pleasant berth either to land or naval forces. It is resolved by the Hritish to make another effort. Their young general, although said to have been so boastful after a dinner at home, that the prime minister, who was one of the guests, was heard to mutter in 104 CaNADIAA PlCTURi..S. "ngland!" has "^^mething to boast of SV. m dismay, " To what hands have I committed the honour of already proved to his soldiers that he can give th' and determines to make his attack on the hei^ .,, river abov- the town. But this is hopeless, if Monicalm gets i . ...c mtention. The only chance is to get up on to the plateau while it is manned ori'y by a few guards ; the main body ot the gallant French army must be kept where they are. Therefore, nii-iiy ships are told off to make a strong I'eir.t in the Bay of the St. Charles, as though i^ were again -^he intention of the assailants to renew their tactics of the summer. Meanwhile, all is prepared for a silent move under cover of the darkness, as soon as the tide turns, and the voyage can be under- taken on the flood to the chosen point above. Il is a dark and moonless night the ships in dead silence feel the waters change their course, for the tide conquers the current, and they glide past the deeper shade in the blackness, which is all that can be seen of the crpe and its sleeping cannon. In that slow and solemn procession of vessels, carrying 5,000 men, not a sound is heard. Wolfe stands on the deck with some of his officers around him, and, moved by a prescience of his fate, talks in low tones, and yet, with the enthusiasm which made him great, speaks of Gray's wonderful poem composed in a country churchyard. One of his staff can repeat the lines, and as he recites the words — " The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power. And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave, Await alike th' inevitable hour, Tile J>tj//is of ;^lory lead but to the graved Wolfe exclaims, " I had rather have written those lines than take yonder heights !" A little later he himself descends the ship's side, and with a chosen party leads the flotilla to the shore. In the bows of his boat he has a young officer who can speak French well, and as the sentry at the foot of the steep bank challenges, a reply is given that they come from Montreal. A second after, a spring is made to the shore, a/id the sentry is down. Then comes the grating of the boats on the beach, the hurried rush on land, the scramble up the bluff, a few shots, and a short resistance, speedily overcome at the guard-house on the top, and the enterprise has succeeded. Before Montcalm can hurry up his surprised troops from the St. Charles valley and the St. Foy gate of the town, the red line is seen in the early morning, formed, and ready for battle. Montcalm, always impetuous, decides, against the advice of his commanders, for immediate onslaught; and most steadily and bravely the French regulars advance, the white flag waving over their blue uniforms, while on their rioht the hardy habitans and the burghers of Quebec are aligned so as to outflank an advance of the British. But orders are passed down the red ranks to load with two balls in each musket, and not to open fire until the hostile line has come near. Then a close and murderous file-firing begins, which annihilates the front ranks ; yet, for a time which seems an age, the French stand, and the Remarkable Eakly Buildings, 105 loss on both sides is dreadful ; but in a little more there is a wavering, the volleys on the invaders' side are repeated, and but feebly returned. 'Vhe British advance ; but their young leader is lying mortally wounded : they press on, and from this moment there is no doubt of the result. The general is surrounded by friends, but he is dying. " They run ! they run ! " shouts some one in his ear. " Who run ? " he faintly asks. " The French, sir/' is the answer. As the English general's spirit leaves the field of victory, his brave enemy, the Marquis de Montcalm, receives a painful wound, but rides on into the town hardly showing how grave is his hurt. The British have been too severely handled to follow swiftly. The Canadians and French retire into the city. The gates are closed, the ramparts manned : it is two days before Montcalm dies, and some more pass before the city surrenders. Thus was this eventful fight fought and won. But it is little known that in the following year we were nearly losing the prize so hardly won, for the Marquis of Levis, coming down from Montreal, was met outside the gates of Quebec by General Murray, and a battle ensued, which resulted in our defeat, and in the French ne£-rly entering the town along with our beaten troops. But Murray had no idea of capitulating, and the possession, of which so much is row said, and which forms the second greatest in our Empire, passed from the flag of France to that of Britain. The discussions now held as to the fertility of various territories of that vast country, and the testimony coming from so many widely scattered portions of it. will show what wondrous results can flow from small beginnings. The whole of the contending armies on that fateful field did not amount to more than about 10,000 men, a lesser number than you see nowadays drawn up on a volunteer field day near any con- siderable town in Britain. From such beginnings— from a French colony 60,000 strong, backed by five regular regiments, and from the conquest of these by a force of under 6,000— has sprung into existence the great Dominion of Canada. Several of the remarkable large stone buildings in the city date from the days of the early history of the French colony. Such are the Hotel DIeu and the convent of the Ursullnes. The first military adventurers, fired with the desire to discover new lands, and to place these under the dominion of the French crown, sought also the conversion of the heathen. Wherever they founded colonies, the religious communities came in their wake, sending forward devoted missionaries, and founding houses for sisters, where the sick might be tended and the children instructed. Of singular interest is the establishment under the Ursullnes, where most of the young ladies of Quebec receive their education. The skull of the Marquis Montcalm is reverently kept within these walls, and In the chapel Is a monument to him. The buildings have high roofs pierced with little gabled windows, and the long corridors and panelled halls and rooms of the Interior look on to courts where the children play during their daily rest Irom study. As in the case of most of the convents, the chapel which i ^! ill r. i ;it 1 06 Canadian Pictures. is open to the public is divided by a gilded lattice screen from the part of the church occupied by the sisters, who are buried under the flagstones on which they have knelt at prayer during their life. Of even greater interest, on account of the memorials it contains of olden days, is the " House of God " which over- looks the town rampart, where the cliff line allows it to have a full view of the river as it widens to girdle the Island of Orleans. In the Hotel Dieu, the marks of British cannon balls may yet be seen in the rafters in the passages. A fine bust of one of the first martyrs slain by the Indians, named Brebeuf, in silver, and autographs of Vincent de Paul and Francis de Sales, and of other great men who sent forward on their successful campaigns the soldiers of the Cross, are preserved. The names of each of the sisters who have lived here since the time of the foundress, the Duchess D'Aiguillon (whose coat of arms and portrait are conspicuously displayed), are written on tablets kept since the first of her followers died. Devoted to the cause of God, and intent on sending out missions, she and other women of her day appear to us now as among the brightest and best of the children of France of the time of Louis XIII. It is difiicult at this day to realise the dangers to which the first colonies here and in New England were ex- posed by the incursions of the savage Indians. Here it was the Iroquois whose threats of massacre kept the garrison at Quebec in alarm, and who became so bold that a large party of Hurons was actually attacked by them on the Isle of Orleans ; and the invaders passed the French town with the bleeding scalps of their victims displayed from the canoes as they paddled again up-stream. A state of siege was not uncommon. It was rumoured that the savages meant to destroy the town and carry away the sisters, who, for safety, were ordered to be lodged in the fortress of the Jesuit quarters in the square near the cathedral. The mother, superior wrote, " We are between life and death. No one can be assured of safety from the fury of the barbarians. All this, I assure you, gives me no fear. I feel my heart disposed to bear and to •""J-.Vj-'Lf. A Street in Quebec. The Iroquois Indians. jq^ suffer all that it may seem best to the good Lord to send to me. He knows what I am able to endure, and I have faith that He will not permit anything to happen which shall not be for the best." Tales were told, amid the distress of the colonists, of the power of religion. " Two French soldiers had been sur- prised in the woods by a party of Iroquois near the hamlet of Three Rivers and carried off to captivity in their country. One of the soldiers had. indefend- mg himseif, received a bullet which had remained deeply embedded in his body An Iroquois warrior, in the hope of taking him alive to the tribe, so that he might there undergo the refinements of cruelty which were inflicted on the prisoners, probed the wound, and making an incision, extracted the bullet with a dexterity unsuspected in a savage. He then bound up the wound, applying wild herbs to It, and tended him so well, that before the end of the journey was reached the wound had closed, and was in a state which promised a complete cure. On the approach of the party to the Indian quarters, one of the band was sent ahead to give notice of their arrival. All the Indians poured forth and ranged themselves in two lines at the entrance of the place. The two unhappy prisoners were, according to custom, divested of their clothing and made to run the gauntlet of these two lines amid a bail of blows. They were then left on the ground covered with blood and almost dead. At nightfall they saw furtively passing a human being, in whom they recognised a Huron Chris tian, who had been for two years with the French. He came to them and exhorted them m words of admirable faith to endure their pains with patience and to recommend themselves to the care of the God who had so marvellously protected himself. He then added that the time of their suffering was nearly past, and that they would soon receive their recompense. ' For ' said he as he departed, 'your fate has been decided; to-morrow at dawn you -vill be burnt ahve. Be of good courage until the end, and remember me when you are in heaven. The exhortations of this convert gave consolation to the two victims and made them look at their fate with resignation, for death seemed infinitely preferable than to live in such torment. They passed the rest of the night in prayer, and in mutually encouraging each other to suffer martyrdom for the love of Christ. At length came the dawn. The sun rose and the morning wore on without any unusual movement taking place in the village. The prisoners marvelled at the cause of the delay. An envoy from the district of Monlaau^ had arrived during the night, He had assembled the chiefs, and had with'all his eloquence endeavoured to persuade them to deliver the two soldiers to his tribe, to he used as a help in procuring a treaty with the French. Both prisoners were brought before the council, and heard with astonishment that instead of being tied to the stake to be roasted, they were to receive their liberty But they had hardly escaped from their first danger before another renewed their fears The authority of the chiefs was seldom accepted without question among the tribes. An Iroquois warrior, furious at hearing that the prisoners were to escape, went in pursuit of ihem, tomahawk in hand ; and they would certainly r 3 J III! 1 1 108 Canadian Pictuues. have perished had not a friendly Huron given them shelter and hiding in his hut. When this new peril was passed, they were conducted out of the village, and pursued their way to Montague. The first days of the march were uneventful. The two Frenchmen, in spite of the fatigues of the journey, their weakness, and the wounds with which they were covered, thanked God that the end of their captivity was near, when one morning, on awakening, they found to their consternation that their guide had deserted them. The savage who had served them as guide had thought that his companions might assassinate him when alone in the forest. Haunted by this idea, he had taken advantage of the shadows of night, and had fled. Not knowing in what direction to pro- ceed, the two soldiers became lost, and walked on at random, a prey to terrible anxiety, to privation, and to cold, for the time of the year was November. After wandering long they found themselves near a carnp, which they saw was full of Meionts, a tribe fiercely hostile to the French. Trembling lest they should be discovered, they entered a hut which seemed to them abandoned by its owner. They were about to hide in it when they found that it was tenanted by a squaw, who, at first surprised by their hurried entrance, recognised them, when she looked at them, as fugitives, and received them with kindness. VViih great astonishment they heard her address them in good French. She told them to fear nothing, and that she would take them under her protection. This Indian woman was named Margaret, and had been a Christian captive taken from the poor Hurons, who were at the time scattered among their enemies. She had formerly received instruction from the Ursuline sisters at Quebec ; often in her girlish days she had entered into the H6tel Dieu, and had been witness of the motherly care accorded to the patients in the hospital. Profoundly moved by the sight of this exercise of Christian charity, she had resolved to imitate the sisters, and so to earn grace in the eyes of God. She hid the Frenchmen from all curious eyes in a corner of the hut, and carefully nursed them. She warmed their frozen limbs by lighting a fire, gave them nourishing food, and applied to their wounds the medicinal plants of which she well knew the virtue. While so engaged she would constantly speak to them of what she had seen in Quebec, and of the nursing practised by the religious women. The memory of such an example was, she would repeat, her chief incentive to persevere in the Christian faith. But their presence in the village was suspected at last, and their retreat was discovered, fiut, wonderful as it seemed to them, they were well treated by the tribe, who had never been friendly to a white man before, and were conducted to the borders of Montague. There they came under the authority of a great chief, whose policy it was to be friendly to the French ; and he gave over to the governor, De Mesy, who was then at Montreal, the men who had so often given themselves up as lost." Very full accounts of the Iroquois are given by the old voyagers. We can imagine from their recitals their whole mode of life, as well as that of northern savages to the south and east. Some led a life giving them food only as they were The Iroquois Indians in 1608. 109 successful in hunting and fishing, but others had settled habitations. In 1608 Champlain describes them in the neighbourhood of Quebec as catching fish from September to October and making a winter store by drying the fish. In January or February they hunted the beaver, the moose, and other wild animals. He represents them as reduced sometimes to great straits by hunger, and obliged to eat their dogs, and even the skins which they used as clothing. They were reputed to be great liars, and very revengeful. The Christians were much shocked at hearing that they had no special form of prayer, but that each one prayed according to his own liking. Priests or medicine men among them were reported to have direct communication with the Devil, and no enterprise was undertaken without consulting the Author of all Evil. All dreams were considered to be revelations and realities. Half clothed in summer, they possessed excellent furs for winter wear, among which the skin of the seal is specially mentioned. They believed in the immortality of the soul, and carefully buried with the dead all the arms and other articles which belonged to him, a custom followed, as we shall see later, by other tribes now living. A feast was held two or three times a year around the grave of a departed chief, and his friends danced and sang in his honour. But there were villages inhabited by others who must have been well able to support themselves. They are uniformly described as of good stature. The head was shaved around the temples and high on the forehead, leaving the hair on the crown to fall in a long tuft, garnished with feathers, very much as many of the nomad tribes have shaved until quite recently. Like the present wild Indians, these also had the face painted with red and black. They planted the maize. They sowed in May and reaped in September. They burnt the trees of the forest, just as a modern settler does, in order to procure ground for planting, and sowed the seed among the charred stumps. They sliowed forethought also in sowing more than was required for one season, lest a bad year might come and no crop be gathered. The village itself consisted of wooden huts, surrounded by a strong palisade, behind which in case of trouble they retired, and discharged clouds of arrows on the assailants. Their arms were clubs, bows and arrows, and lances, and I have nowhere seen that the sling was in use with them, although it was a favourite weapon of the South Americans, for the Spaniards were much harassed by the fire of stones slung by the Aztecs during the wars of Cortez. The good Brittany soldiers thought the savages' dance was very much like one they had at home, called the Trioly de Bretagne. Their mode of fighting was of course no match for that of the Europeans, who, armed with arquebuse and in armour, were able to defeat greatly superior numbers. An amusing old drawing shows Champlain hard at work knocking over a whole hostile army, assisted by friendly natives. It will b^ seen that, like some good people in Europe to-day, the artist imagined palms to be one of the chief trees of the newly discovered wilds of Canada, and these ornaments of the tropics are plentifully scattered in the engraving among the Canadian woods. 1 lO Canadian Picturks. ■iir M. Suites admirable History of the Fraicli Canadians gives the best account of the first discoveries of the sixteentli century, and of the progress ot the colonies from early in the seventecMith century to the days of the cession of Canada to the Hritish. Champlain .lied in 1635. and the oldest buildings m Quebec were built about the time of his death. Durin.r the lapse ot more than a century the government was, in its nature, a military ''one The punishments dealt out to malefactors and traitors showed all the rigour of old iTcnch usage. Heating with rods to the effusion of blood, riding ihe wooden horse with heavy weights attached to the criminal's feet, breaking on the wheel ClIAMl'l.AI.N ATTACKING AN luOQUOIS KoRT. A. Iroquois Fort ; 1!, The enemy ; C. Caiu.e. of enemy, capable of lioUling ten, fifteen, or eirhteen men ; D E Two .lead cnefsand one «,,u,.d.>l. l,y Cl,nm|,lain's a„|uel,„so ; K. Sieur de ( ham dain ; G T^H. luVbus^Vrs of Chamidaiu. force; H. Muutayna.s, OclKVsta.yiun. and Al^'uume.iuins; I. Caiioei of our allies ''"'"'^''"''''" °' dismemberment, and torture, "ordinary and extraordinary," were penalties enacted for various crimes. In 1684 there were already six churches in the Upper Town, althougii the number of inhabitants cannot have been great. In i;2o there were only ;,ooo in the city. '"The gentlemen hunted much," and many of them had immense possessions nominally under their ownership. As seigneurs they had all the rights of feudal proprietors. To encourage them* to build mills, they had the power of making all their vassals take the grain to the seignorial mill to be ground, a custom which existed up to a late period also in Scotland, and was there called "thirlage." There were many other Tim: 1''kknc;h Kur.K in Canada. itr r j^hts. s.m.lar to those of J- n.ola.ui and of Scotland in olden days, notably that o demandm- rorra; or so many days' sraluitous lahonr. These lasted long alter the Conquest, and were only chanjjcd in our own time. I he century of 1-rench domination saw brave and successful attempts made to further discovery. La Veranderye penetrated further than Lake Winnin.nr and the o t.cers on the St. Lawrence knew that they had fomul a vast country which m.ght become a stron.t; support of l-' ranee. Hut, unlike their fellow Catholic adventurers, the Spaniards of South America, they had no LTolden booty to send home to excite the wonder of the cot.rt. obtain sidisidies for their enterpr.se. or tempt others to follow them. Corte/ was able to send home the curious work in gold and silver of the Mexican artists in the precious metals^ 1 i.arro could tell of temples whose interiors were one blaze of irold of an Lmperor of Peru. who. before bein.ir cruelly put to death, had actually p.ud a ransom to h.s treacherous captors, of over three nu-llion pounds sterlinfr m articles of sohd ..^old and silver. There was no such inducement offered to the Trench nobles to equip expeditions. The interest in Canada lauLmished Lven Louisiana had but sli,^rht attraction ; and so, althouirh Ouebec Three R.vers. Montreal, and a few other stations became prosperous, and a 'certain number of troops were sent from I'Mvopv. as soon as it was seen that English nvals meant to take possession of the land, the support of the mother- country was only given .grudgingly, and in a half-hearted manner. All honour then to those gallant men who in the midst of so much discouragement performed their duty devotedly, and with their whole heart and soul Old 1- ranee now remembers with honour and regret the names of Montcalm. Levis Vaudreuil, La GalissoniC:re, Veranderye, and Le Moyne. Most rcmiarkable was the manner in which the conquest was accepted by the vanquished. 1 heir rights and privileges were guaranteed to them, and no interference was attempted with their laws and customs. Th« criminil prcjcedure alone became Lnglish. A frank acceptance of the adverse decree of fortune proved the loyal nature of the men who had come under our flag Nor had they ever reason to regret the change. It is curious to contrast the fate of the Trench ,n old Trance and that of their cousins in Canada. Torn ^^^W^T", '' '" ^'"^' '"^ vain-glory and to ambitious passions, they of the Old World have never seen a generation pass without some violent storm of war or some dynastic and national catastrophe. They have founded no suc- tl etwr "''f' '" ""' '"''■'"'''• ^^" ^'^^ '''^''' h«-nd, the descendants of the Br ttany adventurers possess a power and a population ever augmenting and extending its induence ,n peace and in liberty. They have all they can desire ami so conscious have they been of their advantages, that the grandsons o( 1 tslces f7?V''T''"';'? ^'■''■^' '"^" '^^"^ '''''^^^ ^he bravest and the most successful defenders of the government which assured them their freedom he repulse of an American column at Chateaugay during the early part of this century was effected under the leadership of^one of a' remarkable family I 12 Canadian Pictures. of the old noblesse, namely, Colonel dc Salabcrry ; and not long ago a fine statue by Hebert of Montreal was erected to him near the old fort of Chambly, amid the acclamations of an assembly which included representatives of all the people of the province. A charming piece of country lies around this place. The Richelieu river winds along in quiet bends, bordered with clumps of fine elms. Many of the dwellings date from the old days, and their high roofs, widely-projecting eaves, picturesque proportions, and solid stone walls, recall the villages of France. The old windmill-towers are often of especially massive construction. 'Ihe houses of the present time are naturally more often built of wood, as the cheaper material, but in their case the architecture is the same. Note how much more graceful than the English houses are these, with the long slant and outward curve of the roof, protecting the windows and red-painted doors from the weather. How diverse are the lines and harmonious the colouring of the groups of them clustered round that church, complete in apse and transept and long nave, the high spire with its open belfry gleaming in the light by reason of the metal armour with which it is covered. Churches of the time of the first settling of the land were erected at every seven miles. The erection of a church and school is still the first care of the priests as soon as a few families have collected, It is remarkable how the overflow of the population has not gravitated only into the New England States, but also northward. Up the tributaries of the Ottawa, the Riviere Rouge, the Lievre, and others, colonisation roads are being constructed, and a good soil with heavy wood has tempted many a stout habitan. But by far the most successful instance of fresh colonisation is to be met with in the district about loo miles to the north of Quebec, alon"- the southern side of the Lake of St. John. This is a big sheet of water. On the north the country is higher, but stretching along the other side, from the point at which the waters are discharged into the Saguenay river, there is a vast amount of flat land, capable of keeping 150,000 to 200,000 souls, as it is estimated. Probably there are 20,000 there already, although these have found their way up the water-channels, there being no other road. A railway is now projected, and is already partly built. In 185 1 the first tree was cut where now stands a thriving village. " The case of the first settler at St. Jerome may be taken as a sample of what nearly all had to undergo. Charles Cauchon left Chateau Richer, near Quebec, in 1862, with £2 in his pocket, accompanied by his wife and a family of five little children. By the time he reached Lake Kenogami his little stock of money was exhausted, and he had to give a week of his labour to pay the passage of his family in canoes — ^then the only means of communication— to the southern end of Lake St. John, where he established himself and founded the flourishing parish of St. Jerome. It is unnecessary to rehearse all the hardships and privations endured by Cauchon ; he reaps his reward from the Lake St. John Country, "3 rich soil he has cultivated, and he now owns a good house, large barn, and an excellent farm, well fenced and drained. This year, although only one-fourtli of his farm is under cultivation, he has raised 250 bushels of wheat, 200 bushels of oats, 150 bushels of pease and buckwheat, 240 bushels of potatoes, and other vegetables in abundance. His barn is full to repletion, and he speaks in the highest terms of the productive nature of the soil, which yields twenty-five bushels of wheat to the bushel sown, and twenty-five bushels of pease, or thirty-five of oats, per arpent." This is just the country the thrifty Canadian likes ; and the gentleman who reports on M. Cauchon's farm continues : — " The lands on the River Peribonca, on the north side of the lake, have heretofore been considered unfit for settlement. A govern- ment surveyor has just completed a thorough survey of them, and I am told reports that fully ten parishes, if not more, can be established there, on the best of land. From the Peri- bonca to the Grande Decharge the soil is also said to be good ; in fnct, the north side of the lake is said by some to be superior to that already settled on. The country is so flat that it is generally impossible to judge of its extent, but at one point, a hill overlooking the village of St. Prime, an excellent view can be had. P>om this point, looking west and north for probably 100 miles, or as far as the eye can reach, not a hill is to be seen, nothing but one vast wooded plain— watered by noble rivers, the Ashuap- mouchouan and the Mistassini, each of them from half a mile to a mile in width— of the richest soil, only the fringe of which has been touched by the new settlements of St. Prime, St. Felicien, and Normandin. One cannot but bp struck hy the vastness of this grand territory; and everything goes to o THE 1 QUEBEC & LAKE CTJOHN I COUNTRY 10 50 r, ao ^0 40 ™.»» I- ' II 'I 14 Canadian Pictures. confirm the estimate made of its extent by Mr. Tache, tiie Assistant-Com- missioner of Crown Lands, whose reports indicate that it contains three million acres of arable land — an area greater than all the occupied lands of the maritime provinces. Truly the district is a province in itself. " The climate of the Lake St. John region is said to be that of Montreal ; there is no doubt of its being superior to that of Quebec. The snow-fall is certainly less ; protected from easterly snow-storms by the great range of the Laurentides, which intervene between the lake and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the quantity of snow is said to be moderate. In fact, farmers complain that they do not get good sleigh roads till late in the winter. On the 25th of September this year, I remarked that the leaves of the trees were very little tinted, and potato stems were still green. Wheat and all grains ripen and produce luxuriously. I was assured by a number of farmers that wheat can be sown up to the 15th June, and some years even as late as the 20th June, with the certainty of its ripening in the fall. " The soil is almost universally composed of a rich grey clay, and in the few places where this is not exposed, and where the surface appears sandy or of yellow loam, the clay is not more than three or four inches below. The land seems to be inexhaustible. At Pointe-aux-Trembles I was shown a field of wheat which had been producing that grain for the last fifteen years without the application of any manure, and the grain I saw this year was as fine as any to be found in this district. Truly one is struck with wonder at the richness of the soil, for I believe there is none richer in Canada. " Lake St. John is a magnificent sheet of water abounding in fish, such as the ounaniche (land-locked salmon), pike, dore, and other smaller kinds, for which there will be a ready sale in Quebec, when the railway reaches the shores of the lake. " Only on a very fine day can the other side of the lake be seen ; at all other times it conveys the impression of an inland sea. On a calm day its bosom ' i like a mirror ; but let a stiff north breeze blow for a couple of days, and white caps will be seen everywhere, and breakers roll on its shores which would do credit to the Atlantic. Following up the west shore of the lake, the scenery is very fine. A distant blue point, hardly visible at first, gradually resolves itself into a long coast-line, dotted with farms, villages, and churches, reminding one of the St. Lawrence below Montreal. The eye never tires of the beautiful landscape — on one side fields of wheat, rising gradually from the border of the lake, on the other the broad expanse of the lake. " Potatoes, carrots, and other vegetables yield abundantly and of immense size. " Wheat is of course the great test of the soil and climate of any agricultural country. Let us then compare its production at Lake St. John with the best Communication with Lake St. John. >«5 portions of the province, viz., the Eastern Townships, and we find that the census shows in 1881 : — Itushels per i,cxxj uf popiihitioii. 4,800 1,800 2,400 1,600 County. Population. IliishcU, Wheat. Chicoutiini . . . . 32,400 '04.589 Compton . . 19,581 34.181 Stanstead . . • • J5.556 n^i^i Huntington . • 15,495 24.378 " The rapid increase of dairy products is very striking. Already there are in the county of Chicoutitni no less than four cheese factories, and one for the manufacture of butter. The district bids fair to outstrip any other part of the province in this important product. " Farming is carried on on a scale which would not a little surprise our farmers in the district of Quebec. One farmer in the neighbourhood of Cliicoutimi has about 400 acres under cultivation, and raised this year some 4,000 bushels of grain alone — his enormous barns evidence the confidence he has in the productiveness of his land. A business is carried on in raising live-stock, and the Saguenay steamers bring a full complement of excellent cattle to the Quebec market. " The great, in fact, almost the only drawback, is the want of means of communication. The cost of cartage from Chicoutimi, the head of navigation, to Lake St. John is enormous. To St. Felicien, a distance of about 100 miles (and not the most distant point, for there are settlers twenty miles further in, and will be a hundred miles still further), it costs from §1 to $150 per 100 lbs. for cartage. This is a terrible tax, especially on heavy and bulky goods, and on all produce ; for example, coarse salt, which is worth from 50c. to 6oc. per bag in Quebec, sells at Hebertville for §i-6o to ?2, at St. Jerome for $325, and at St. Prime and St. Felicien for $3-50 per bag, and has even sold as high as $6. Iron and molasses are similarly afiected. Potatoes, when they can be sold at all, go for 20c. per bushel, and the best butter can be bought there for 15c. a pound, payable in store pay, on the encouraging basis of prices given above. In fact, if the soil were not extremely rich, it would not be possible for the people to live without better means of communication. " The railway from Quebec will of course change all this, and it is eagerly looked for by the people. Its advent will give an impetus to the settlement of this great country, which will exceed anything east of Manitoba." Yet, in spite of the disadvantage arising from the lack of roads, the problem of successful settlement here has been solved, and this part of Canada will no longer consist only of the St. Lawrence valley and its southern adjuncts, but will have a second line and an interior defence and resource. So the years pass, and northward and westward the living stream rolls into new regions, each race finding the place assigned and taking its appointed y 2 116 CaN.\I>1AN I'll riKKH. share of tlu' |).>ssL'ssi()ii n.sorvrjl for it from all lime in the ih'stinyof Providence. The Sai,Micnay, which h,is hitherto formeil the only approach to this fair hack- coiintry, is a must curious chasm in tlu; land. It is far deeper than the St. L.iwrence, and llows in its lower course; throuj^h sterile rouiuled hill masses, often .iliruplly l»roken into precipices i.ioo feet in hei^dit ami descenilin)i[ into loo fathoujs of water. It has been saiil that this gateway throu|;h the walls of the L.im-enti.in r.in^^c is lifeh>ss. Mut if the traveller looks not only at tin; s,iva;;e rocks around, but .it the dark blue tiilt;s. lu; will see their surface often brok«;n by a while m.iss which appears, and as sudtlenly vanishes. Tlu; white porpoise is the person guilty of intrusion on this sophisticateil dream of death. 'I"here is aboundinj; lifi; in reality Ih;Iow and al)ove. If this sinijular creature alone were there, its presence woidd be sufficient to redtcm the landscape; from this charge aj^ainst it. A most useful animal is tiiis snowy wh.ile. It i> found only in the ^nilf and in the .S,ij;iu;nay. In tin; shallow bays of the southern _i,nilf it is c.iuijht anil the oil used for the cnj^ines and ),frease-bo.\es of the trains. The method ^A' its c.iptiire is ingenious. A row of bushes is planted in the mud .uross one of tlu- b.iys. At llood-tiile this is invisible, and the while porpoises swim past it aiul disport themselves nt;ar the shore, tumblinj^^ throuj^h the tiile, and risinj,' momentarily to " blow." Hut the sea ebbs, and llie row of branches show their wavin^f twists above tlu" surface, moved by the movement of the water. The porpoises bej^in to think it lime to retire. lUit just in the path which their instinct tells them is the w.iy back to the depths there is a pu/./.liiij; fence of noddinj; trees. What can it mean .-• They j^o near it, and the nearer they jjo the more they dislike the look of it. So th(;y circle round, ami, hesitatinj;-, they are lost. There is soon not enoui^h water for them, and when they are helpless, out come the fishermen and slauj^hter them. Hut the whole detail of Nature on the Satjuenay is lovely. Of the immense family of woodpeckers which haunt the Canadian woixls, there are several to be foiiiul here, and the number of small birtis is threat. Anil for the botanist what cm be more interestiui;- than the >; ie.it variety of all kinds of northern mosses and shrubs which clinij to the rocks, and till each ledije ami plateau with venlure .■* The ileer much apppreciate one species of moss. This branchinj,»-, stiff and coral-like white kind is the favourite food of the reindeer or cariboo. Wherever it is to be found this .mim.il is most plentiful. S|)eakin_L|f of tlu; reindeer, is it not a curious thini;. that, althoui;h it is so universally used amonsji; the natives of Northern Asia, from Lapland f.ir on towards Hehring's Straits, yet as soon as those str.iits arc passeil, no native has been known to use them for domestic purposes.^ .And yet there is so <;ieat a simil.irity between tlu; tribes o( the .\si.ilio and .American sub-.Arctic zone, that it seems cert.iin the straits formed no barrier to migration. Must the inference be drawn that that migration took place before the deer was domesticated, and that the Asiatic use of it was borrowed by the Laps and others from the practice of which they had knowledt^c, o\ the employment of the horse and ox by mm livini^ to the south .■' I'lastwiinl from the Sa^'ucnay, the j^'ulf is well worth a study. As a rule the northern side is uncultivated and wiki, am! the south is well settled. I'or a yachting voya^'e no pleasanlcr cruise can bcohtaintil than her*-. Oftlu- settled parts we n<:ed not now speak so particularly. I'he character of these is the same. The lanils are often diviiled so much amou),' the f.imilies that each individual has only a very narrow strip. Potatoes and buckwheat with oats are the chief crops. Of the imsettled and less invitinj; parts on the north the chief features may soon be menlioui'd. A ilcnst! ijrowth of under sized forest clothes nu)st of it. Throu^^h this small lir thicket the rivers run, lull of sea-trout and salmon. An Indian tribe called the Montaj;nais come here in summer. It is a race which annually moves from these to the Hudson's Hay shores, and the same people are found near the Athabasca, in the f.ir north-west. They are a hardy, huntinj,' race, happy cnoui^h, unless the small-[)().\ j^'cts amonj^ them. Wlun this happens, as in the case of all savajj^es, the disease t.ikes a specially virulent form, and th(!y die helplessly. They make little birch canoes ; and one of our party purchased oue of these for a si;al hunt. Pailillinj^f alon^ and lookinj,' after seals, which are common, and of which wv. obtained several, it was curious to see how the terracetl ledj^es with which the shore; coast descemls into the river bottom were strewn with j^ij^rantic bouUlers of rock. These were probably brou<;ht by the winter ice. They are of hujje dimensions, often as big as a small house, and at half tide are only partly submerj^ed. l-'urther out into the stream, the canoe voyager looks ilown through the clear water and sees the next ledge below him equally strewn with these enormous blocks, often patched in fantastic forms with seaweed, looking as though some bear-skin or black robe were thrown over them. Hefore the d ;ys when lighthouses were planted, as they now are on every projecting promonto'-y, this was a terrible coast for ships. A whole squadron of I'^nglish men-of-war and transports lie buried at one place, and even now .ships' bells and other relics of the disaster are fished up. The e.xcellent arrangement^5 of the Dominion (iovernment have now made the channel as well lighted as are the streets of any great town. Pleasant enough places iu summer are these lighthouses. Then there is plenty to do in trimming the lamps, in keeping watch upon and reporting the vessels as they steam or sail in or out from the great estuary. The fleet of fishing schooners from New England, intent upon the mackerel catch, the square- rigged ships coming and going with timber, the great Transatlantic liners all glide by, or dot the sea-like expanse with their sails. There is shooting to be had in the woods also, and one keeper whom we visited had a little menagerie of tamed porcupines. He had amused himself by hunting these with dogs. The porcupines take to the trees, and become an easy prey, provided the man be armed with good gloves. But woe to him, and more especially to his dogs, should the attack be carelessly made. Although the Canadian porcupine's quills are not so thickly set over his body, and are not so strong and handsome as in the case of his southern cousin, yet he has :ju i if 1 'ii !: 111 i! i' ii8 Canadian Pictures. plenty of them, more especially on the lower part of the back, and he knows well how to use them. Erecting them into a palisade, he can detach them while he gives his body a jerk towards the enemy, so that the legend has arisen that he can throw them. The jerk has this effect, and directly the nose and mouth of the pursuing dog are thus met by a backward jerk of the animal's rump, the pursuit is effectually stopped, for the dog's head is full of quills, which give great pain, entering easily into the flesh, and then being very difficult of extraction, because they are barbed with minute back-set hairs. A gush of blood follows the extraction of each. When in captivity the porcupine becomes very tame, eating greedily apples or any vegetable given to him. Our friend the lighthouse-keeper was very proud of his porcupines, and insisted on our taking a pair of them away as presents. But his sports in winter he com- plained of as being much curtailed, and his loneliness often most hard to bear. Yet he shot partridges among the fir thickets, starting them out of the powdery dry snow in which they burrow ; and then seal-hunting was often exciting, but very cold work. Out at the edge of the shore ice was his hunting-ground for the seals, and in one winter he had managed to secure fifty, which was worth the trouble, for they brought as a rule a pound a-piece in the Quebec market. It is noteworthy that with the efficient but cheaply conducted lighthouse system here, there are only two keepers to each station. It was formerly the system also in England to have a couple of men only ; but where men had disappeared, suspicion attached sometimes to tlie survivor, and it was thought best to have three in each tower. The only case among the light- keepers I have heard of as suspicious of murder in Canada occurred where there were three men. A father and son and the father's assistant lived together. It was winter time, and the station was one on the south shore, near settlements. All three were out seal shooting, and the assistant arrived home alone. His story was that the other two, although it was known that they were better clad than himself, had become benumbed with cold, that he had tried to assist them, but that they had lain down, and been swept off the ice-raft on a broken piece. They were never heard of again. The survivor applied for the appointment held by the father. Suspicion was strong against him, and he was dismissed the service ; but there was no evidence, and the real cause of the disappearance of his two companions remained a mystery. We will now ascend this wide and illuminated channel, and pass Quebec and go onward through Lake St. Peter, and on until we reach the end of the navigation for ships of over 1,400 tons, at Montreal. Here is a goodly city. If the approach to it be made by night, a long line of electric lights marks the quays. But we would rather come up the stream in day-time, when the rapid river gleams bright and blue, and the Royal Mount behind the city shows itself fair and green in its bravery of maple and elm. A pretty island lies moored in mid-stream, and beyond, the Victoria Tubular Bridge, looking like a mere thin rope, tightly stretched from the tops of short posts, spans the great distance to the further bank, seen low and far across the water. Crowds of shipping lie along the heavily-built stone wharves. Steamers nearly 6,000 tons in burden are there, and fleets of three-masted sailing ships; but from year to year the steamers increase in number, and it is evident that the sailing vessels are doomed in public favour. The most prominent buildings on shore are the two tall square towers of the Catholic Cathedral, and a great market and customs building — a minor Somerset House. In almost all the buildings the grey limestone used gives an air of massive strength and a solidity and stateliness very different from the temporary appearance of the structures of many American towns. There is plenty of bustle and activity visible in the streets, and animation prevails in all the thoroughfares near the water-side. Away from that quarter, where all the Montreal. business seems to be transacted, the avenues of trees planted before the houses denote that greater space can be given, and mure attention paid, to purposes of adornment and pleasure. Many churches, handsome hotels, and well-built detached sesidences denote the district inhabited by the more wealthy of the citizens. Scattered among these are vast structures which are devoted by the Roman Catholic Church to the use of nuns, who are formed into communities having important duties assigned to then in the education of children and the care of the sick. Mdlle. Lajeunesse, known to all the musical world as Madame Albani, was trained in the largest of these, the immense building known as the Villa Maria, placed on the site of Lord Elgin's old house of " Monklands." The memory of a stormy political scene is associated with Lord Elgin's 120 Canadian Pictukks. residence at Montreal. When the Parliament met there, a Bill had been passed through the legislature, settling the claims of those who had lost property during the troubles of the rebellion of 1837-38. It was considered by the party whose strength lay In Ontario, that too much was done for those who had recently been insurgents, and they declared that the Governor-General should not assent to the Bill. Lord Elgin, resolutely abiding by the rule of constitu- tional government, announced his intention of acting on the advice of his ministers, and thus rendering the measure an Act of Parliament. He set out from Monklands with his staff, and was mobbed before entering the House, and again on leaving, so insolently, that his brother, Frederick Bruce, had his head cut by one of the stones thrown at the carriage. It was a happy accident that the Governor-General himself escaped unhurt. As soon as he was gone, the mob stormed the House of Assembly, and burnt it to the ground. As a loyal demonstration the tumult was a failure, but it was successful in banishing the seat of government from the commercial capital. A seat of learning, well worth visiting, is McGill University, whose honoured principal. Dr. Dawson, is well known to the men of science of Eui ope and America. By the generosity of Mr. Redpath, an excellent building has recently been added as a museum, in which may be studied all that is most remarkable in the geology of Canada, as well as a collection of the implements, weapons, and carved pipes of the aborigines. If the visitor wishes to see what IS supposed to be the oldest created thing preserved for us in the rocks he may here satisfy his curiosity, and decide for himself whether the coral-like structure to be distinctly traced in the interesting specimens in the cases is a mere accident of mineral form, or shows one of the family of marine insects which has built up a great part of the land we live on. McGill is a /ery popular university, with an ever-increasing roll of students in all the faculties, and fortunately also, with an ever-increasing roll of endowments. Besides the illustrious name of Dawson, those of Logan and Carpenter are connected with it. Formerly the National Museum of Geology was placed at Montreal, but it has now been removed to Ottawa, where additions to the collection have been recently made from Alberta, some great saurians' bones being especially remarkable. Manufactories flourish at Montreal, but these are necessarily like manufac- tories elsewhere ; and if the traveller wishes to be amused by a sight very unique on the American continent, he should attend a fox hunt, and see the Hunt Club. The members indulge in no idle mockery after a drag, but are successful in per- suadmg the farmers around to let the chase be one after wild foxes. During many seasons there are as many foxes killed as there are hunting days. At the club house are excellent stables and kennels, where horses and hounds enjoy the sensation of being brushed with rotatory brushes, as though they were New York or London dandies at a barber's shop. The animals appreciate the luxury, the hounds especially, scratching at the doors to be let out to get to the brushing place when the hour comes round. Winter in Montreal. 121 The winter carnival at Montreal gives enjoyment to thousands of strangers who come to see the sports. If they choose to have the unwonted s nsaTon of steaming in a railway train over the ice, they may take passage n he cars unning across the frozen St. Lawrence to Longeuil. If^hey^desire to see fairyland on earth, they should be present at a masquerade ball in he great btr^^ Tr V" "''^' l^' ^^''' ^'^^" '" ^"^ --"^ the palace bui t of^ ce blocks. If they wish themselves to share in exercise for which much prac ce IS not necessary, they should join one of the merry parties of the Snow shoe Club, and clad in coloured blanket coat, blue "Tuque" cap. and mocis sins tramp away into the country over the bright and poldery sn'ow. con^g home with their blood tingling from the healthy exhilaration of the keen and tlindess air. There is no need to fear insufficient accommodation either he eo a Toronto, for the hotels of both cities are excellent Almost every town in Canada, and the States, too, at one time or another has suffered from fire. Montreal, although .so solidly built, has been no excepTon The quantity of wooden buildings in most of the cities sufficiently accoJt f^r these conflagrations, and to this cause must be added the heating of the houses during winter with stoves and long hot-air pipes, making the. temperature very high and drying up everything in the dwelling. The water supply is too often insufficient, and the flames have their way. rushing before the wind, flying fron" roo to roof with the whirling shingles and burning M^S, roaring fvith a continuous thunder whose monotone is only broken by the louder crash of falling roofs. Such a conflagration is a grand spectacle, and a melancholy one I remember one instance where the people had piled their goods in the onlv comparatively open space available before a church. Articles of all kinds were heaped on the steps of the great central door, as though near the sanctuary a refuge might be found ; the alarm bells were pealing from the church towers and It was not unti! everything around had fallen that the people fled and the priests rang a last tocsin from the spires only a kw minutes before the whole fabric descended in ruin. During the winter, when the river is so well covered with strono- ice that a railway is laid upon it. and passengers and goods are taken across to the opposite bank at Longeuil, the operation of the ice harvesting may be watched \s the summer is warm enough at Montreal, and as its heat through the whole of New York State and the country to the south is most trying, a vast amount of ice is required for the markets. A mild winter brings dismay to those who are accustomed to get a "good ice-cup " from the fine waters of the Hudson But a sure supply of thick, well-frozen ice may always be obtained from Canada The harder the winter, and the greater the cold, the better is the quality of the ice. Men with .saws and ice-cutters may be seen carving square blocks from the white floor on which they stand and placing them on sledges for conveyance to the store-houses. In January the Montrealers erect a wondrous structure of towers, battlements and glistening walls, inclosino- R J 22 Canadian Pictures. s"^ kxu7 of'^i^cTb^cks. Water poured over the f^^-' ;f ;f:;;jj^,^;;^; up to the height of a hundred feet, cements uito one sohd mass the translucent stones o? crystal. The effect of such a buildh^g when lit from wuhm is very strikins? and beautitul. . . i i>. • • Handsome as is the city of Montreal, the most populous m the DomuHon it cannot boast of more than 150.000-a small number compared wi h those of the great Australian centres of commerce. Yet m Australia there is not half the total population there is in Canada. Is not this m favour of the northern colony, showing as it does how large a proportion of her people live on her land, 111 MiiNrMAi IN NMNTtR An let Jam rather than in her streets ? Montreal has more of the dignity of years than any white man's settlement, for of old it was Hochelaga, an Indian town, circled with palisades. Its people grew corn, and made pottery of ^^^ ^^jf J^';^'/"!^ fashioned pipes skilfully enough ; but their art and the.r works, hke ^lose of all d.e Red races of the far north, were neither beautiful nor enduring. In the Montreal of to-day art holds her own. There is a good picture galL.y and art school and several of the citizens have fine houses adorned altogether by Montreal artisans and artists. We shall probably see towns as wealthy arise in Canada, for the country is fast gaining in wealth. Lacrossp:. 133 Tlie game of lacrosse is frequently played at Quebec and Montreal, and should be witnessed if possible by any traveller desiring to see a peculiar national pastime.^ It is a game requiring great speed of foot and quickness of eye and hand. The Cauchnawaga Indians, living above the Lachine Rapids, are adepts at the sport, but are usually beaten by a well-selected team from the Montreal clubs. The game, like all those which are the prettiest to see, is played with a ball. This is made of porous india-rubber, and is rather smaller than a cricket ball. The players are ranged against each other in couples throughout the length of the field, so that wherever the ball alights there may be two con- testants for its possession. It must be sent through two goal posts. No player is allowed to touch it e.xcept with the lacrosse stick. This is a strong curved piece of ash or other tough wood, in shape like a hockey stick. From the end of the curve at the top a netting is stretched down towards the handle, so, that the ball may be caught in it. By giving the stick a peculiar swing the ball may be sent sling- fashion from this netting in the curve, and can be thrown for 150 yards. The attitude of the players would be fit subjects for sculpture, for both in slinging, and in running with the ball on the lacrosse, and in avoiding the pursuit of the opponent, there is no posture of agility, strength, and fleetness unrepresented. No game is more exciting to the spectators, for there is no pause or stay in the contest. At one moment the struggle is in front of one goal, and the next instant the ball has been caught and hurled away to the ether extremity of the field, and a fresh set of combatants are called into action. The teams now consist of twelve men on each side, but in old days the Indians played it in numbers, and " o-ood at game, good at war," was a saying with them much as it is with our fox-hunters, who call their sport a mimic war. Football IS our nearest approach to lacrosse, and knocks as hard are given in the one as m the other game, but the injuries at lacrosse are more likely to be in the head, as ,n followmg a man who has the ball, strokes are delivered at his stick which often fall on hands, arms, shoulders, and head. Catlin says that in his day tnese games afforded the squaws the only opportunity they had of paying f- Indian Lacrosse Pi.aykk. ( /•'/■<;/« t'aHm's '■ Aor/h Aiiinhnn IniUaiis.") M 124 Canadian Pictures. 1,'ii Uf ! !' i off their husbands for any injury they had received from them, for it was the women's privilege on these occasions to be allowed to Hog their husbands into the ball-Pght, and that lazy or timid men could be seen flogged into the contest by their down-trodilen women, who laid on the "birch " with a will. No such incentive is necessary with our Canadian brothers, who are as fond of manly sports as are the English at home. There is no finer game than lacrosse, now VICTUKIA HRIDGE. the national game of Canada, and there are, the world over, no finer young fellows to engage in such contests than our Canadian players. • 'v . 1 One of the chief objects of interest at Montreal is the Victoria 1 ubular Bridge, a wonderful structure, into which the Prince of Wales drove the last rivet^in 1861, this ceremony being the signal for the opening of the great viaduct to traffic. The winter cold and summer heat makes the iron-work contract and expand, and skilful provision is made for this in the building. When the train passes its cavernous entrance, and speeds on through the dark and sounding Religious Bodies in the Dominion. 12 = avenue, glimpses are caught through side openings of the mightv river hurling Its currents through the abutments of the piers below. The Roman Catholic Church is dominant in the Province of Quebec where It possesses much property held from the days of the anciai rc'qimc of France and contmued under British rule by the acquiescence of the majority as represented m the local legislature. In other parts of the Dominion it is in %"!i"°y"y' ^"* everywhere has the independence accorded in Canada to all sects of Christians. The number of its adherents, according to the last census, was 1,792,982. The Wesleyans and other Methodists rank next in number. The Wesleyan Methodists have a General Conference and six provincial conferences, and the Episcopal Methodists and Primitive Methodists are also considerable bodies. Ihe Wesleyans number 582,963, the Episcopal Methodists 103,272, the Primitive Methodists 25,680, and other bodies 3,830, or 715,745 in all. ' Next in numerical importance are the Presbyterians, the greater part of whom belong to the Canada Presbyterian Church, which has a General Assembly and five synods. Pew congregations are connected with the Established Church of Scotland a still smaller represents the Reformed . Presbyterian Ciiurch, and there are a few Presbyterians not conn(;cted with any of these. The adherents of the Canada Presbyterian Church number 629.280, those of the Church of bcotland 32,834, the Reformed 12,945. and the others 1,106, or 676,165 in all Next in order of relative number is the Church of England, which, in Canada, constitutes an independent body, having its own episcopate and synods distinct from those of the mother country. It has nine dioceses, and adherents to the number of 574,818. The Baptists number 275,290 ; the Lutheran Church, which is principally composed of German colonists and their descendants, 46.350, the Concrrejra- tionalists amount to 26,900. *■' The whole Protestant population of British North America may thus be reckoned at 2,436.334. and if to this we add 70,000 belonging to various denomination not previously mentioned, and a proportion of the 89,000 who are entered in the census as not having stated their religious belief and of whom it IS probable the greater part were Protestants, it might not be unfair to rate the whole Protestant population as somewhat over two millions and a half. All of the larger Protestant bodies have theological schools, many of them well equipped and attended by large numbers of students, and all have home and foreign missionary organisations, many of which are very active and useful Owing to the special circumstances of Canada, and to the rapid increase of new settlements, large demands are made on the congregations of the older districts for missionary work within the Dominion, and for this reason less proportionally has been done for foreign missions than in some older countries, but there are nevertheless missionaries sustained by the Canadian Churches in most of the leading mission fields. 'I I 126 Canadian Pictures. Much importance is also attached in Canada to the operations of rehgious societies. The British and Foreign Bible Society has numerous auxiliaries and branches throughout the Dominion. The Religious Tract Society and Sunday School Union have also done useful work, and in recent years the operations of Young Men's Christian Associations have assumed large dimensions, while Young Women's Associations exist in the more important cities and towns. As in the United States, Sunday schools are universal, and are conducted with great spirit and success. Throughout the Dominion, except in a very few newly-settled districts, Christian worship is maintained in every village and settlement, and even in the smallest and newest settlements the Sunday school affords means of religious instruction, and supplements the visits of travelling missionaries or of the ministers of adjoining centres of population. " On the whole," writes a friend, " there are few countries where the truths of the Gospel of Christ are more generally diffused or more accessible, and it has not been found that the absence of an established Church has tended in any way to diminish the Christian privileges of the people. On the contrary, there is an active competition between the different bodies for the possession of new localities, and a strong spirit of emulation with reference to the financial and spiritual prosperity of the several churches. There is also a healthy spirit of mutual helpfulness, or at least of forbearance and toleration between the different denominations, and where controversies and differences have occurred this has more usually been among the different schools of thought in the same denomina- tion than between different denominations. " There is as yet but little in Canada of open opposition to Christianity or advocacy of infidelity, and such influences when they exist are most usually represented by lecturers introduced from without. The churches are well attended, and desecration of the Sabbath has not assumed very large proportions even in the cities. It is to be hoped that this state of things may be permanent, and that the motto of Canada may be, ' Blessed is that naiion whose God is the Lord.'" To my friend's remarks I may add that, while the Churches are not "established" in the English sense by the State, both Protestants and Catholics have been allowed to retain large endowments. ■ 1 gious 5 and mday ns of while ucted y few 2 and ichool elling truths md it n any there f new l1 and irit of iferent is has »mina- FROM LAKE HURON TO WINNIPEG, ity or isually ; well )rtions anent, jod is -e not tholics Ill n ! 'I I' M "I "I y, o WiNNH'ic; IN 1S75. CHAPTER VII. 1'"K()M LaKI: Hl'KoN TO Wi.NMl'lXi. TllK Watkr.wav fkom Montrkai. t,i I.akk SiiTRiuR-AinoMA AM) Mamtoi'i.in- Wi.sMi'i;i:-TiiK Mamtoiu University- r»K Rkp-Rivir Sktti.krs-A Day's Jocrnky in tiik ^•oRTH■\VI:s^•-^tR. I'kacock I'Dwarh's Kei'ort on the Nortii-\Vi;st Tin, Canaiiian rAni'ic Kaiiavav. A LARGE revenue for the exiVencies of public works in Canada is neces- sary. Where you have a region of such tremendous extent, and an enterprising people pushing settlement here, there, and everywhere into the wilderness, and making that .same wilderness into flourishing districts, you will have demands for roads, telegraphs, and post-offices. We have scarcely space to show how these demands have been met in Ontario. Ihat province is now so well filled with people in the districts lying between Erie and Huron that the communities are self-supporting. Harrie, Collingwood, Newmarket, Brantford, London, Sarnia, St. Thomas, and Hamilton are names of well-known flourishing centres whose sons are forming fresh counties in the backwoods with every decadet But there are always heavy charges, which must be met throughout the whole country by the National Treasury. Some of these, and forming the principal items of expense, are great charges for the lighting of coasts, deepening and I making of li;irbours, increase !n the capacity of water channels, the construction of canals, and the guiding by dams and dykes tile currents of the different streams. Nothing gives a better idea of this than the ordinary holiday tourist's journey, undertaken by so many wlio wish to see part of the States and of Canada, and who ascend the St. Lawrence and go as fur as Cliicago. As they approach the shores from the sea, light after light beckons them on up the wonderful avenue of water, until the great river looks like some wide street in a well-lighted town, and the ship arrives at Quebec ; but she does not stay her course, but proceeds onward through the street of light-houses, pass- ing Lake St. Francis, whose whole central channel has been artificially deepened, until she arrives at the head of uninterrupted navigation at Montreal. But here again, if she be a ship under one thousand four hundred tons, her journey need not be terminated. Rapid waters flash over the rocky ledges in the stream above, and the continuation of these rapids, which are often almost cascades, bars her direct progress ; but at each and all of these she finds magnificent canals constructed, with fourteen feet of water over the sills of all the locks, and she can proceed until the majestic waters of Lake Ontario allow her again for 150 miles to proceed upon her course. Then, when the steam of the l*'alls of Niagara rises above the plains which seem to shut out further advance, she slips quietly into the Welland Canal, which carries her over thirty miles, until she passes out again upon the shallowest of the great lakes. Lake Erie, Onwards for another 140 miles, and then through similar works she reaches Lake Huron. Through a wonderful archipelago of islands, scattered on the water on its northern shore, she wends her way, until the old French post, called the Rapids of St. Mary, is seen upon the low and wooded shores. Here for the first time in her long inland voyage she has to leave Canadian territory, for the canal which takes her onwards is built on American ground. A grand work it is. And now at last she will have arrived at the ultimate stage of her wanderings, for before her stretch the 400 miles of the deeps of Lake Superior, 600 feet above the level of the sea. It is from thence that vessels take in an ever-increasing amount of grain from the exhaustless granaries of the interior, to the markets of Europe. One of the toughest jobs which the Canadian Pacific Railway has to encounter is to be found in the rock-bound and precipitous coast on the north of this vast lake. In a year or two the traveller bound for the West will go by the Canadian Pacific Railway along the upper courses of the Ottawa River, and, crossing over the wooded ridges, will traverse the deeply-forested country above Lake Nipissing. He will see nothing of Huron, for the line is some considerable distance from the Georgian Bay, and he will only see Lake Superior when nearly one half the distance of its north shore has been traversed. When he arrives on its shore line he will not again quit it until he gets to Port Arthur, whence he will strike inland through Keewaytin to reach Rat Portage and Winnipeg. If he prefer to see some of the northern country. Al.COMA. '3' and yet not to miss th<; v()).ij,'o on .Sii|) It is computed that there are si.x millions of acres between the Ottawa and the Georgian Bay and south of Nipissing which may be profitably used. Everywhere, however, the clearing of the woods must precede cultivation. Men from the Swiss cantons are actively promoting emigration from their country, and enthusiastically declare that their wines may be grown here also. There are parts where hard-wood takes the place of firs ; and although these inner recesses of Canada's old provinces are only now being opened up, there is no reason to doubt that they will, before another half-century has passed, be reckoned as containing many counties ecpi.U in importance to the most favoured in the " Peninsula," which was itself fifty years ago in the present condition of Kastern Algoma. The early settler's hut. the shant) of the railway navvy or lumber-man, the trapp^-r Intent on fox, marten, and beaver, will, before very many years are passed, have given way to th.e galleried farm-house and the well- cleared fields of the Ontarian farmer. It is perhaps pleasanter for the emigrant and tourist that the route is not an all rail one. For twelve dollars the settler may now be conveyed from Quebec to Winnipeg, and he will find it more agreeable in the warm May weather, that he has some change during the journey, and that a well-equipped steamer awaits him at Gravenhurst or Collingwood or Owen Sound, and that he is thus allowed to inhale the breezes which play over the lakes in summer instead of being obliged to submit withoi.r a break to the monotony of railway travel. After threading the very picturesque maze of islands of the bay, he will probably find that the vessel stops long enough at some point of Manitoulin Isl.uid to allow him a run on shore. He will probably see fishing-boats at the quay full of splendid white fish, for i- jrs are sent hence to the southern markets. The Indians catch these in i,.. strong currents as the fish head up-stream. Keeping the canoe end on to the rapid, the men watch their chance, anci with speed and remarkable certainty plunge a big "landing-net" beneath I, i Ml '• 'i nil ^^ i i i s 132 Canadian Picti'res. Settlkr's Hut. the canoe over the head of the fish, and with a rapid twist the net's mouth is closed, and the prize hauled on board, Manitoulin, called after Manito, the universal I ndian name for the Great Spirit, is one of a group. The largest has some good land, and is 100 miles long, very irregular in shape, with an estimated area of 1 ,600 square miles. With a mild winter and cool summer, its advantages had already in 1881 at- tracted 9,000 whites, and there are large Indian reserves, on which between 2,000 and 3,000 natives — Ojibbeways — live. Their chiefs keep up much of the old state, and here, for the first time on the journey westward, does the traveller see pure-blooded Indians. They have given up their heathen practices, and if there be curiosity to see feasts whose chief delicacy is the broth made of a white dog kept for sacrifice, such customs must be looked for further on, among their brothers in Keewaytin. But here fine men may be seen, with the true bold type of features of the Redskin, and the friendly smoke of tobacco is still offered to the stranger from pipes whose stems an; curiously wreathed and twisted. The missionaries have indeed been singularly suc- cessful in Manitoulin— a forecast of their success along the whole of the north of the lakes as soon as the sinews of Christian warfare be provided by the subscrip- tions of frifMids at home. Among the Anglicans, the Hishop of Algoma, who Sktti.kr's IIl'l'. LaKIC Sui'ERIOK. lives at Sault Ste. Marie. Ontario, has charge of this district, and there are many Methodist and Presbyterian ministers who may be helped by forwarding money to their respective head-quarters at Toronto. Garden River and Bruce Mines are places where halts are usually made by the vessels, and you will always hear from the hopeful settlers that there is a good prospect of the enlargement of their little colony, that the farms are doing well ; but as yet the content grows from little, for lumbering to procure wood for the towns on the American shore, and the raising of cattle and cereals for their own use, is all that is attempted. About rth of MlCllll'ICOTl-X, LaKK SuiiiRloK. (/•>IVH .1 Sketcli by the Mari/iiis of Lorii,- ) Algoma Mills and Sault Ste. Marie there will probably be considerable towns, as they are on the straightest road from east to west. The general characteristics of the scenery along this route, are the loveliness of the wooded islands, the shores low and rough and wooded, and northward the lower ridges of the hills, which stretch unbrokenly from Nepigon to Quebec. The Americans have a military post at "the Sault," and after passing this place, Michipicoten Island, of which the accompanying engraving gives an idea, is the first land seen on Superior. But if it can be managed, the captain of the steamer should be prevailed upon to make a slight change in the course, in order that the fine cliffs of Nepigon Straits may be seen. There the columnar basalts, which are very remarkable further on, are first observed. The rivers falling into the bay are full of excellent trout, and no better fishing can be had. From a point not far from this is the shortest road to James's Bay, at the head of Hudson's Mi ^1 « ^ ii "ti 134 Canadian Pictures. Bay. This will, however, not be the way by which that outlet for grain will be reached by rail. The mountain barriers are too formidable. From Winnipeg Lake by the Nelson River there is no such obstruction, the country being very flat, and it may be confidently expected that a line will put the prairie country into communication with the gulf. The basaU and trap hills which form so grand a gateway to Nepigon rise to still greater heights, and are seen in more striking forms where they are broken into islands guarding Port Arthur. Whoever has seen the Treshnish group of the Hebrides and the headlands of Mull, can form some idea of the appearance of Thunder Cape and its sister island. The Canadian trap formations are grander in scale, but they can show no such perfect gem of basaltic structure as Staffa. The copper mines around Lake Superior are the richest in the world, and have every kind of that ore. The best is that in which the copper is not in great masses of pure metal, for when found in this state it is most difficult to work, and the expense of labour greatly diminishes the value. At Michipicoten Island, and other places on the north shore, the percentage of ore is very large, but the stuff is procured in easily wrought rock. The races who in old days inhabited this country knew of the mines and worked in their rude fashion at them. Ancient shafts exist, and in these rude stone hammers, marked round the centre with a groove for the reception of the thong which attached them to a handle, are found. But the metal when procured was beaten only into rude plates, or used for roughly shaped vessels. It seems that silver was not thought worth getting. It does not shine in gold-like masses as does the copper when cut, or seen in the many-coloured beauty of green, purple, bronze, or yellow in the surfaces exposed to the action of the atmosphere. Yet silver, as shown in such ore as that procured from spots near the Kaministiquia River, is sufficiently striking in appearance. Often it exists in branch-like threads or strings of pure metal which, ductile and firm, cling like hemp strands to the portion of rock which has been broken off. Close to Port Arthur is a tiny islet called Silver Island. Before it was known as rich in silver some men bathing from its scanty ledges picked up a small piece of ore. The discovery became known, and a few gentlemen at Montreal formed a company to explore the place. It became necessary to have some crib-work put up to continue operations. Four of the gentlemen demurred to the expense, and thought the cost would not pay. One only remonstrated against this view, and against the proposal to get rid of the whole concern by a sale. He was over-ruled, and some Americans bought the property. In less than twelve months not only was the additional space gained by the crib-work on which to plant engines, houses, &c., paid for, but rich lodes had been struck and a small fortune had already been made. The further they dug, the richer was the silver. It came up in moss-like branches running through a white stone; it was found in blocks of grey ore, and in thick sheets of solid silver, so that it was often worth from 12,000 to 20,000 dollars per ton. Bitterly did the Montrealcrs Scenes on the Lakes. 135 bewail their own want of confidence ; but it was too late. Silver Island had become the most noted mine of the lakes, but it was no longer theirs ! Beautiful was the old canoe route through Keewaytin to the Lake of the Woods. It was that taken by Sir Garnet Wolseley's expedition. The Kaministiquia River is famous for some fine falls, and each of the myriad lakes o Keewaytin is an enchanted spot. Almost all of them are ornamented with islets, on whose breasts the wood, untouched by the fires which have too often deso ated the forest on the lake sides, remains in its first loveliness. From lake to lake the canoe is carried, and as it is again launched on another piece of clear water, time is given to watch the innumerable host of lilies encamped on the \Vl.NNlI'li(; AS IT WAS. Still surface of the inlets, the blaze of generous sunlight on the broad fringes of white pine, or the red stems of those called Norwegian. Often as the canoes proceed the voyager threads passages so narrow that the boughs almost meet overhead, and the bushes, mosses and lichens on the ripple-worn rocks, sprinkled with bright flowers, are so close that each may be distinctly recognised. A night- camp among such scenes, when the tawny birch-bark flotilla just floats with the painted prows resting on clean sands, and the fire's glow falls on the nearer pines and firs, and a clear moon shows the more distant forest slopes backed by some huge crag, remains in the memory as a joy for ever. '36 Canadian Picturks. .i::l! These canoe voyages are only memories, for nowadays at Port Arthur we enter the railway cars, and after passing for 400 miles through a wooded and rocky region we suddenly emerge upon the endless meadows of Manitoba. For miles and miles we now see the long grasses wave, and out of the treeless land rise the spires of the churches of the new city of Winnipeg. As we approach this creation of the last half-dozen years we cross a river which, like the Tiber at Rome, rolls rapidly in a turbid, tawny flood. We see that it is joined within the limits of the city by another stream, not quite so large but equally muddy. These are the Red River of the north and the Assiniboine. New cities are all much alike in general plan on this continent. There are the same very wide str'>ets, showing how prodigal the community may be of land. There are the same rough buildings of boards, with the front run up in a square shape, hiding the gable behind, which it would be r ich the prettier thing to show, but it is hidden because the square boarded front gives more room for some largely written name or advertisement. There are the same pre- tentious, and some- times very handsome " blocks," where a wealthy firm or an enterprising speculator has put his capital into brick, stone, and lime. There are the same variety of hotels, some great, some small, but all furnished with the largest bar-room and entrance hall they can afford to have. There is the same wooden " side-walk " along both sides of the street, the same car-tramway on the roadway, the same flight of light springy gigs or buggies, with their tall thin-spoked wheels, making it necessary to climb over the spider work before the passenger can be seated in the vehicle. There is the same lumbering along the highways o( loaded van and waggon. But two peculiarities Winnipeg has, the one a remnant of bygone days, the other a proof of how her citizens can well use the latest result of tolerance and culture. I allude to the Red River cart, and the Manitoba University. Let us look, first, at the cart. It is a very rough structure, but ingeniously made, for its wheels are put together without one piece of iron. There is neither nail nor metal tire. The thing creaks horribly, but answers its purpose well. Caravans of these conveyances have for the last thirty years taken the half-breed's goods C^EAl'- Kk.d-Kivkk Cakt. Education- and Farming in Manitoba. ^37 by the prairie trails to all parts of the great valleys, and often occupy ninety days in getting to Edmonton. Let us look, secondly, at an institution whose wheels, we hope, will never creak. This is the university. The governing body comprises Anglicans, Roman Catholics, Presbyterians, Wesleyans, Baptists, Methodists. Each religious communion has its own college, and they are all affiliated to the university in this, that the students all get their degrees through examinations approved by the heads of these colleges. The system has as yet worked admirably. It approximates to the plan adopted by the University of London, and is well worthy of the close attention of the stranger to Winnipeg. It is the most striking product of this productive land. If this institution last, as all must hope that it will last, the combination of the various religious bodies will prove most effective for the purpose of securing united contributions for the funds, without which it is impossible to secure the services of good professors. The fault in many cases of the university system in Canada is that the degree- giving establishment is supported only by the co-religionists of its founders, and they in most places cannot afford to give large endowments. Some earnest, eloquent, and influential man arises among the Anglicans or other religious community. He succeeds in obtaining enough to start a college ; and all must be glad that he does so. But his establishment is likely, unless it has relation to others, to survive his life as a comparatively weak institution, having often the right, through provincial legislative sanction, to confer degrees, but having, owing to the want of funds, a band of instructors whose attainments are necessarily commonplace. Higher education suffers from this. If the Manitoba model were generally followed, a long step would be taken towards the improvement of the universities. The provision for primary and generally for secondary schools is excellent throughout the whole country, and in the North-West one-eighteenth of all the land was originally set apart for school purposes." Many speak as though the experience of ftirming in the province of Manitoba dated only from yesterday, but this is not the case, for Lord Selkirk many years ago brought in a colony consisting of Scotchmen from his estates in the north, taking them by Hudson's Bay up the Nelson River to Lake Winnipeg, and then settling them not far from where the present city stands (then called Fort Garry), at a place named Selkirk. It is curious how few of the members of that force under Sir Garnet Wolseley which put down the Half-breed insurrection in 1870 seem to have been sufficiently impressed by the experience of the Selkirk settlers, for the soldiers were not desirous to take up the land allotment which was offered to every member of the expeditionary corps. Yet if they had remembered how the early pioneers had told them that the wheat grown on their lands came to a total of about thirty bushels per acre in each year, and that these crops were raised gi.'ing the land a time of rest every fifth year only ; if they could have realised within how short a time those places which ihey themselves had reached with so much toil by march and canoe T 138 Canadian Pictures. i:i n\ portage through woods and endless lakes, would not only be reached by railways, but become great railroad centres, they would not so carelessly have thrown away their chance of making a fortune. When I was at Winnipeg in 1881 the city had scarcely 10,000 people ; now it has 30,000. The streets are full of life. Excellent shops, large warehouses, and some handsome churches have been erected. The great want is a good pavement, for the soil is a tenacious black stuff which clogs and sticks to everything it touches after rain. Fortunately it soon dries, and in the neighbourhood of the town the prairie sod gives good surface for anything but heavy traffic. To the north and north-west are the lakes of Winnipeg and Manitoba, both great inland seas, the first of which is connected by the Nelson River with Hudson's Bay. It is proposed to export wheat during the short season of autumn, when the straits which give access to the bay are not full of ice. The time during which navigation is certain must be very limited, but it is possible that, as in the case of Archangel, it may be worth while to run steamers to Port Churchill, to carry away grain brought thither by rail. Around Lake Manitoba there is plenty of timber in forests, which stretch thence in a wide arch to the forks of the Saskatchewan, and thence north- ward until the pine and fir belts descend again, in the neighbourhood of Edmonton, to fill the valleys of the Rocky Mountains. But we arc wanderino- in our survey too far afield, and for the present let us see how some men who are not of our race, and who entered the country with but few of the appliances brought or bought at once by the English, Scotch, or Canadian settler, have found a prosperous home in the plains of the Red River. You see neatly-made houses covered with a heavy thatch along the railway line to the south, homesteads which are evidently occupied by farmers in com- fortable circumstances, who have their cow-byres and other outhouses neatly arranged in order near their dwellings. On a pole in the centre of the rustic courtyard hangs a bell, which is placed to summon the labourers from the fields for the noonday meal, or homeward when work is over for the day. If you go to their houses you will be hospitably welcomed, but the speech you hear is not your own ; it is German, and yet these men are not Germans. Their history is a remarkable one. Their ancestors lived under the Great Frederick in Brandenburg, in Pomerania. They had taken to the tenets of one Simon Menno, who preached, as did the great Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, that war is a crime. He went further, for he would not suffer his people to take arms in their hands even for the purposes of civil order. The sect increased, but you may imagine how distasteful these maxims were to the cast-iron military rule of the conquering Frederick. He would have none of them. What was the use of a man who would not even become a policeman .'* And so away from home and kindred they had to go, and finding in the Emperor Paul of Russia a man who could value them as good agriculturists, and who invited them as such to his Courland provinces, they settled down as subjects of the The Mennonitks. U9 Czar. But as their numbers increased so did also the mih-tary systems of the Great Powers ; and where every man must be a soldier, to refuse to wear the uniform of the country is to be a neglecter of the first duty of a citizen. So thought the Russian Government, and again these people were obliged to move this time across the whole width of European Russia to the shores of the Sea of Azov, near the Crimea, where they were again allowed to settle upon lands m what at that time was but little better than a Tartar wilderness. Here a^ain they throve and tilled and " replenished the earth," till " the desert blossomed like the rose. In recent times, however, the demand for military service in Russia determined the Mennonites-such is the name of this sect-io send pioneer colonists to make a greater journey than any heretofore accomplished- for this time they were to cross Europe and the ocean and half the continent' of America and find freedom beneath the flags of the kindred peoples who have fallen equal heirs to the grand liberty of the Far West. Some settled in Minnesota and some in Manitoba. Where the land on which any of their villages had been built needed draining they, with true German energy and thoroughness and true Russian perseverance, set about the work ; and nowher'- wil you see better cared for settlements, though perhaps on rather a humble scale, than among the Mennonites. Most comfortable are the interiors of their houses, though the floor IS often only the hard-pressed earth ; but there is a cleanliness about walls floor, and furniture, which tells of the presence of an excellent housewife' China m a corner cupboard, and books in another, add to the appearance of the apartment. As the wood was scarce a few years ago where they were they largely used straw as fuel, and 1 was assured by one of the men. who like all his neighbours spoke excellent German, that they had never sufibred in the east from any winter cold, having with a very little wood and much straw as luel obtained more heat than they wanted in the house. Althouc^h subject to and willing to obey, the laws of the Dominion of Canada, there" is practicallv no occasion on which these are enforced amongst them, for they have their own system of justice. A religious and God-fearing people, crime is rare with them, and when it occurs it is dealt with amongst themselves. The roads they have made from yil age to village, and their whole system of rural economy, are excellent, and they form by far the most satisfactory instance of any at you can dig ten feet without a pick. The snow is not more than one foot thick. The climate is ilry and bracinjr in winter ; not a drop of rain falls from October to March. He says that labourers can get $25 to $30 a month and board, and can work at lumber in winter. Servant girls who know dairy work are in great demand, and get ^lo a month and board. There is no summer frost. We drove this day for hours through a country of marvellous fertility, not an acre of which was tilled. Hour after hour the circle of the great plain keeps widening WiNNlPKi; IN 1S82. around, far advancing as you advance. There seem to be hay fields here enough to supply the world. At twelve noon the barometer marked 400 feet above Rapid City. Everywhere we see, where the grass is especially green, the process by which the soil was made. Silt forms on the surface of the waters in the hollows, grass begins to grow, and gradually a deep black soil is formed. In loassing the gullies the black soil sticks to the wheels like glue. Here, as elsewhere, a notable feature of the prairies, in striking contrast with all I have r^ 14a Canadian Pictures. seen of the forest, is the abundance of bird life. The loneliness of the woods is terrible, but here great buzzards and hawks are almost never out of si^ht. Thcv tell their own tale. We come almost daily across bittern, snipe, widgcc n. teal of two vanct.e. many kinds of duck, prairie hen or sharp-tailed grouse, plovers, and coot. 1 ijcre arc great llucks of a species of starling. T\v, gopher, or ground squ.rre. is met with every day. Scarcely a lake we pass but has the dom<:-shapecl dwelling of the musk rat. of which 70,000 skins were delivered lasc yea. at Carleton Fort alone. The flesh is eaten by the Indians, and the skins often form the ' sealskin ' coats of ladies in London and Pans At i "o we were passing Salt Lake, a beautiful sheet of water, but alkaline. These y/^*^^ •-./^w^^"!?^^ A Farm in the North-West. alkaline lakes are of frequent occurrence, the white salt showing in the soil. At 3, we camped at Shoal Lake. vege- , , Such grass, such tables, such potatoes, I have never seen as those in a garden at that place ;— the soil a black loam as friable as sand, "The settlers came to see the governor. I have their names, but it is enough to say that tlieir statements tallied exactly with those already recorded One of them gave thirty-five bushels of wheat to the acre, seventy-five of oats and said that the potatoes were an enormous crop. I have learned that hail- storms, though very limited in their range, were very destructive. They are one of the worst evils that settlers have to contend with. I could not find any who had suffered from locusts. Next day found us in a ro.iing plain, the view m all directions interrupted by clumps of poplar. M. R.. a typical farmer I r c f( I tl C Fair Prospkcts and Rmmvav PcuORicssroN. 143 had come from Ontario fourteen months before. He came in June ; broke in twelve acres from the sod. and cifrluf-en in the sprin- all now under crop • expects thirty bushels of wheat and seventy of oats from this new-turned land' I measured his oats, and they had strong straw four and a half feet high, with wcll-niled ears. His house, and especially steading, which was formcd^'of logs piled one on the other, and covered with his winter store of hay, were certainly plain enough. But they served his purpose, and his house was commodious enough to be used as a sort of run. He built them both with his own hands at a cost of .$30. He gets water at twelve feet, likes the climate, and thinks It better than that of Ontario. He says that the heights are warmer and more fertile than the hollows. '1 he settler can dispose of ah' the grain he grows for seed to the new-comer. In tlie afternoon we descended to the green and beautiful valley of the Birtle, whose opposite slopes were indented with wooded ravines. Some twenty houses nestling sweetly .,t the bottom of the long-drawn vale, which is sixty miles in length, constitute the little village, a year and a half old, with a mayor, a Presbyterian minister, a hotel, a general store, and a— town house. There were all the inhabitants assembled with an address and heartily singing ' God save the Queen '—a well-dressed company of ladies and gentlemen, a clear-Howing river passing their doors, and they themselves rejoicing in an unbounded hope in the future greatness of Canada, and Birtle I am not sure that my eyes ever looked on a fairer land than that on which we gazed soon after leaving these friends. I was on the edge of a vast plateau. The ground sloped evenly and gently down for about two miles to the rtssini- boine, 350 feet below, and on the high bank overhanging it were the white houses of Fort Ellice. A long, dark belt of wood, lost on either hand in the distance, marked the course of the river; while beyond it there stretched what looked like the finest plain in England, a light and sunny land, that has been waiting through all these long centuries to bless men with its wealth. There was the river which had cut that deep, broad groove for itself out of the level prairie, a tangle of ash, elm, and maple growing on its banks. And there in the very heart of this lone land was a three-decked, stern-wheeled steamer of 260 tons, which runs regularly from April to November, but takes a week to accomplish the 800 miles of tortuous watercourse between this and Winnipeg." Lines are being constructed to the north-west and south-west, and it is manifest that there is plenty of room, and a necessity for more railroads, for it is only by means of them that the farmers can bring their grain to market. The quickness with which even the least experienced in prairfe farming can provide for himself is well illustrated in the case of the Highland crofters sent out in 1883 by Lady Cathcart. Mr. Peacock Edwards was requested by her to visit them, and this is the account he gave by my request to a great meetino- at Glasgow, of his impressions of the country and of the condition of the settlers:— "I am satisfied, from personal observation, that a technical knowledge of farming, however desirable, is not absolutely necessary for new settlers in the w 144 Canadian Pktuues, Hi ill ■ t north-west. Tlip soil is so rich that it only requirt-s to bo scratched and the seed sown to yield an abundant harvest. In the ccnirse of my travels I met with men, formerly occupied in a variety of trades and professions, successfully carrying on farming operations. Among others I met a gentleman who had been in a bank at Sheffield, and after visiting South Africa, had ultimately settled in the north-west, and was successfully working a farm there with his own hands. Another, who had been a Methodist clergyman for twenty-one years in Ontario, had come up with his sons, and we found them reaping a fine crop of wheat on the farm on which they had settled. Another was an engineer who had not succeeded in business, another a coffee planter from Ceylon, and, indeed, men who had been in almost every trade you could mention — all successfully carrying on farms, contented with their lot, and full of hope for the future. So that, in order to succeed in the north-west, a practical knowledge of farming, such as is required in this country, is not at all necessary. No fertilisers are used, and, consequently, the farmer has not to balance nicely the relative values of dissolved bones and guano, nor has he a manure merchant's bill to meet when he sends his wheat to market. Machinery has been brought to such a degree of perfection that manual labour is reduced to a minimum. Everywhere the self-binding reaper is in use, and the plough has a raised seat, on which a man or boy is placed, driving it like a waggon team. I have seen a good deal of the practical operations of farming in this country, both on large and small holdings, and I can confidently assert, from personal knowledge, that the labour of the farmer in Canada is much loss arduous than in this country. Canada thus offers a comfortable home and an assured livelihood not only to those of the agricultural classes who cannot gain a living here, but also to the unemployed mechanics and labourers in our great cities, who, as I have said, can successfully undertake farming without previous experience, and who only require to cross thvi Atlantic to find themselves prosperous members of a rising community in this Land of Promise. "This leads me to the important question, what means should each family or individual contemplating a move to Canada possess ? I observed that Lord Lome, in his lecture at Birmingham, stated that a single man should have from /50 to ^100, exclusive of the cost of journey ; and if married, from /2C0 or ;^250 to /"soo; and I quite agree that such means would be suffi- cient, and insure the settlers immediate comfort and success, though I think he, speaking with official reserve and caution, probably stated the figures at a higher sum than is absolutely necessary. In carrying out the practical details of Lady Cathcart's colonisation scheme, I found that the average expense of transmitting a family of five (including infants) from Glasgow to Winnipeg was ;^22, being £4 Ss. per head, and with ^100 additional to start with on the free homestead farms, I believe each family could make a very fair start, though it certainly would be better if they had from ;^ 150 to / 200 to commence with. In regard to a single man I should say ^50, exclusive of the cost of journey, A N()i:otUctioH 0/ photogyafhs.) Ig i.ill i ■1 I ( I ip ill II liii O i, u o < j ^A ^ ^^H jF..>| riff An Indian of the North-West. (/•w« a Sketch by Sydney Hall.) CHAPTER VIII. The Indians ok the North-west. The North-West Mounted Police-The Prohibition of the Liquor Traffic-Horse Stealinc-Evils OF Whisky Drinkinc-Sitting Bull's Victory over General Custer-The Sioux-Thf Biackfeet -li.E Povv-wow IN 1881-lNDiAN Eloquence-The Sun Dance-Squaw Doctors-Canadian Policy WITH THE Indians— Indian Cruelties— Indian Customs— The Christian Indian. THE long levels of the prairie spread sea-like on each side of the Canadian Pacific Line, but there are sudden breaks caused hv "mni; ^ " ^^ r.,„;„„„ Pacific Line, but there are sudden breaks caused by "couli.: or ravines plains near the rivers ; and we pass one of the greatest troughs cut out of the pmuia when we come to the Assiniboine, and, crossing it, soon afterwards enter the territory of Assiniboia ; and here we leave Provincial Governments behind us and enter the lands which are under the genial but despotic rule of the Lieutenant- Governor of the North-West Territories, who, with his council, governs a country X 154 Canadian Pictures. bigger than France and Germany. You will soon observe at one of the stations a fine-looking trooper, clean, soldier-like, with white helmet and brass spike on head, scarlet jacket and broad yellow-striped trousers, boots and spurs, and carbine in hand. This is a member of the North-west Mounted Police— a force now five hundred strong, and having charge to keep order throughout ihe country between this and the Rocky Mountains. This cavalry regiment is well horsed and well officered, and woe to any whisky-trader whose barrels may come within their sight, for, owing to the trouble which spirituous liquors are sure to produce amongst the Indians, as well as amongst the white settlers in the initial stages of a country's development, none are allowed. Enterprising traders bring them in carts from the south, and often an exciting race occurs between the horses of the trader and the police, who have perhaps a long stern chase to undertake, but who finally ride up with pistols presented and make our friend disgorge his goods, which are forthwith spilt upon the ground. There are several points of politics and of social economy in regard to which it is very interesting to see the experiments made in Canada, experiments which may guide the statesmen of the old country in their legislation. It is well-known that throughout the North-West Territories there is an absolute prohibition of liquor selling. This prohibition, extending as it does to all who do not obtain a permit for the private or medicinal use of alcoholic drink, is not so difficult to enforce in the territories as elsewhere, for the channels by which merchants can introduce such commodities may be watched with comparative ease. But in the provinces, a Federal Law allows a district or municipality to vote by ballot on the requisition of a certain number of voters whether or no a prohibitory rule shall exist for a time in the district. The time during which no liquor can be sold on a vote of a majority approving the experime.it is three years. The success of this law depends upon the locality in which it is put in operation. In places where liquor is easily smuggled in it has not so much effect as in isolated districts where the regulations can be enijrced. But there is a natural tendency to adopt temperance if not abstention. In America it is not a common thing to have wine offered to a guest at country houses. In the woods the lumberers never drink anything stronger than tea, and no one works harder or to better effect than a lumberer in the forests. The air itself is a tonic, making it unnecessary to resort to stimulants. The legislation is a consequence of this and of the evil effects of drink, most notable with the Indians, who are driven crazy with rum and brandy, and who will take anything which even reminds them of "fire-water" — even the medicine called "pain-killer,' a compound sold as an antidote to rheumatism, being greedily drunk by them whenever they can obtain it. If an argument derived from the effects of over-indulgence in stimulants can be derived from the conduct of white men under their influence, a far stronger proof of their bad consequences may be drawn from the ruin they work on the Red man. Mr. Colmer, the Canadian Government Secretary in The Licensing Act of 1883. 155 England, recounts very concisely the general legislation in force in the provinces of Canada on the subject of the sale of liquor :— "An Act was passed during the session of 1883 of the Dominion Parlia- ment which provides that the country shall be divided into license districts, identical, so far as possible and convenient, with existing counties, electoral districts, or cities. A Board of Licensing Commissioners, consisting of three persons, will be appointed in each district. One member of the Board must be a county court judge, or other judicial official ; another the mayor of a city, or warden of a county, as the case may be ; and one is to be appointed by the Government for one year. A Chief License Inspector, and one or more inspectors, are nominated by the Board in each district. The Act determines the number of hotel and saloon licenses to be granted. In cities, towns, and incorporated villages one license may be issued for every 250 of the first 1,000 of the population, and one for each full 500 in excess of that figure, but there may be two hotels in any town or incorporated village where the inhabit- ants number less than 500. In county towns five licenses may be granted. Two hotels beyond the number the population may warrant may be licensed for a period of six months, commencing on May i in each year, in any locality largely resorted to in the summer by visitors. In incorporated villages, tt./nships, or parishes, no saloon licenses are granted. Shop licenses, which authorise the holders to sell and dispose of any liquors— not less than one pint in quantity— not to be drunk in and upon the premises, may be granted, one for each 400 up to 1,200 of the population, and one for each 1,000 beyond. Any person applying for a license who is not already a licensee under the Act, or under any previous Act, must be supported by a certificate signed by one-third of the electors of the district. Ten or more electors, and in unorganised divisions five or more, out of twenty householders, may object to any application, and can be heard by the Board, and it will be refused if two-thirds of the electors petition against it. Before any license is granted the applicant must enter into a bond in the sum of $500, with two sureties for $150 each for the payment of all fines and penalties which they may for infractions of the law be condemned to pay. No license will be granted by the Board within the limits of any town, incor- porated village, township, or other municipality, excepting counties and cities, if three-fifths of the qualified electors have declared themselves in favour of a prohibition. Hotels and saloons and shops are prohibited to sell liquors from seven on Saturday night till six on Monday morning, and from eleven at night till six in the morning on other days, except for medical purposes under proper restraint. Lodgers in hotels may, however, be provided on Sundays during meals, between the hours of one and three, and five and seven in the afternoon. The hotels and public-houses are closed on the polling days for dominion, provincial, or municipal elections. A provision enables two justices to forbid any licensees to sell drink to any person who ' by excessive drinking mis-spends, wastes, or lessens, his or ler estate, or greatly injures his or her health. &c./ in X 2 156 Canahian Pictures. L'f any city, town, or district in which the drunkard may be likely to resort. Another clause provith^s that any husband or wife, whose wife or husband may have con- tracted the habit of drinking intoxicating liquor to excess ; the father, mother, curator, tutor, or employer of any person under the age of twenty-one afflicted with the same weakmss, and uv manager or person in charge of an asylum in which any such p< ' xni r.-^^-'s or is kept may require the chief inspector of the district to give notice in writing to any person licensed to sell liquors that he is not to supply them to such interdicted person." Hut to return. The work which has to be undertaken by the members of the North-west Mounted Police in winter time has hitherto not been light, for the detachments are necessarily placed whcr, ^hc - can be available in case of any arrest of horsc-stealers being necessary. Horse-stealing is prevalent in those parts where settlement is scarce, and where the manners and customs engrafted on the half-breed population by their Indian ancestors still obtain. The western highwayman takes your horse— the most valuable possession he can obtain — and the summons may come at a moment's notice that a theft has been committed, and it may be necessary to send a party of men prepared to camp upon snow, and to follow up the trail of the marauders. We will suppose such a theft to have taken place, and the depredators to be Indians of the Cree tribe. The officer and his party, after two or three days' hard riding, have overtaken the redskins before they can cross the frontier. Now is seen of what advantage reputation or prestige- a thing sometimes derided nowadays— is in preventing bloodshed and maintaining order. The officer finds the Indians camped and numerous. Without a moment's hesitation he rides through the lodges to the chiefs tent. He enters, his handful of men waiting in the meantime. He finds the chief, with his councillors round him, smoking in silence, and hardly daring to look at him. As he enters he says through his interpreter, that he knows that horses not belonging to the tribe have been run off. Grunts and universal protestation that nothing of the kind has occurred proceed from the savages. The officer maintains his ground, says that he knows the horses are in the camp, and that they must be at his bivouac before morning. Finally the chief says that it is impossible to give up the horses, that the young bloods of the camp would not allow him to do so even if he wished it. The officer now declares that the tribe will not be allowed to cross the frontier or move from the ground they now occupy until the horses are surrendered ! He knows perfecdy well that he could not enforce the demand, that the Indians are well armed, and that his own men would be cut off in a moment should hostilities commence. Yet a whispered consultation now takes place among the chiefs, and in a short while a promise is given that the horses shall be in the officer's hands before the morning. Out of the tent strides the officer ; and sure enough at dawn the horses are brought to hi i. He insists upon the surrender also of the men who first took them, and he marches off with these men under guard back whence he came. The secret of his power VViij) Indians becoming Extinct. •57 is this— that the Indians know that the rod-jackets mete out equal justice to white man and to red man, that a white settler would be punished in exactly thi same way as the redskin for any crime he may commit, and that to set the Canadian authorities against th(; In(hans will he for the Indians the cuttinjr off of the only chance tiiey possess of livinjr in a country where they are treated with equal justice. It is confiihintly expected that in two or three years more the last hors(r-steaIinj,' (expedition will have inecome a malur of history. lUit the force of mounteil police will for a lonjr time be found useful or necessary because of the ease widi which they can move, and will form the surest guarantee that the evil-disposed among the white population shall not follow the old Indian cattle and horse " lifting" customs. "fer' l§i -'mm- " "' isttJ' uf-S^u t\;i.Y CusroMKKs. (From a Sketch hy Sydney Unit) In a few more years no wild Indians will be seen except in the far north ; and it is curious to observe them now, while as yet, in some tribes, their dress, manners and habits are what they have been for centuries. As a rule, they are well-made fellows, showing not so much muscle as a white man, but sleek and finely moulded in limb, and untiring in wind. Whisky is the bane which drives the savage wild, and is the fruitful cause of every crime amongst the white men in the American western villages ; and the prohibition placed upon its use does much towards preserving order among the young communities on Canadian soil. You do not hear in villages 158 Canadian Pictures. in our land, as you do hear It said further south, that " shootingf was pretty lively here last night." There is a story that in a Colorado ball-room it was necessary, on account of the manners and customs of the inhabitants, to write in large letters over the head of the unfortunate gentleman who had been detailed to perform music for the evening's amusement, " Please don't shoot the pianist — he is doing his best." If trouble occur in our Canadian West, it is promptly suppressed, and the guilty ruffian handed out. Ample provision is made, as the country settles up, for school purposes ; nor are the spiritual wants of the people left unheeded. The Roman Catholics were early in the field, but Anglicans, Presbyterians, and other denominational bodies have quickly followed in their steps, and many a devoted servant of his Church is at present labouring among the scattered population of every part of the Territories. It is interesting to see how originally wild savage bands are becoming tame and half civilised. It is only a few years ago that near our line a band of Sioux, under the leadership of a chief named Sitting Bull, achieved a victory over a civilised force which has no parallel in the annals of any recent war between civilised and savage troops, except the single case of Isandula. General Custer, one of the most gallant officers of that gallant Northern army — a man distinguished for intrepidity and skill in the war against the Southern Confederacy — had been appointed to a command of cavalry not very far from our frontier line. As is too often the case, unnecessary quarrels had led to unnecessary fighting between Uncle Sam's boys and the braves under Sitting Bull. Custer, coming upon their camp in a place chosen with rare skill by the savages, impetuously ordered an attack. Accounts vary of the struggle which ensued, but the' story must necessarily c* me from one side only, because no American soldier lived to relate the tale, 1 he Indian account, given in Sitting Bull's words, is as follows : — " During the summer previous to the one in which Cii;,ter attacked us, he sent a letter to me, telling me that if I did not go to an agency he would fight me ; and I sent word back to him by his messenger that I did not want to fight, but only to be left alone. I told him at the same time that if he wanted to fight, that he should go and fight those Indians who wanted to fight him. Custer then sent me word again (this was in the winter), 'You would not take my former offer, now I am going to fight you this winter.' I sent word back and said just what I had said before, that I did not want to fight, and only wanted to be left alone, and that my camp was the only one that had not fought against him. " Custer again sent a message, ' I am fitting up my waggons and soldiers, and am determined to fight against you in the spring.' I thought that I would try him again, and sent him a message, saying, I did not want to fight ; that I wanted, first of all, to go to British territory, and after I had been there and came back, if he still wanted to fight me, that I would fight then. Custer sent back word and said — ' I will fight you in eight days.' Preparing for General Custer. »59 wor M f \f. : ""'' ?.° "'"• "'•"' ^ ^°"''' ^^'^'^ ^" ^'«ht, SO I sent him word back, All rijrht ; get all your men mounted, and I will ^ret all my men mounted ; we will have a fight ; the Great Spirit will look on, and the side that 13 rn the wrong will be defeated.' " I began to get ready, and sent twenty young men to watch for the soldiers. l< ,ve soon came back with word that Custer was coming. The other fifteen stopped to watch his movements. When Custer was cmite close ten young men came in. When he had advanced still closer two more of them came in, leaving three still towatch the troops. We had got up a medi- cine dance for war in the camp, and just as it was coming to an end two of the young men who had stopped out came in with word that Custer and the troops were very close, and would be upon the camp in the morning. That night we all got ready for the battle. My young men all buckled on their ammunition belts, and we were busy putting strong sticks in our ' coup sticks.' Early at sunrise two young men who had been out a short way on the prairie, came to me and told me that from the top of a high butte they had seen the troops advancing in two divisions. I then had all the horses driven into the camp and corralled between the lodges. About noon the troops came up, and at once rushed upon the camp. They charged in two separate divisions, one at the upper end, whilst the other division charged about the middle of the camp. A View on the Ei.bow River. {Fnm a SitIcA iy tii Man/uis of Lome.) 11 Uiil ill "Wi ! ;,1 The latter division struck the camp in the centre of the 250 lodges of the Uncapapa Sioux, and close to the door of my own lodge. At the time that the troops charged I was making medicine for the Great Spirit to help us and fight upon our side, and as I heard the noise and knew what it was, I came out. When I had got to the outside of my lodge I noticed that this division had stopped suddenly close to the outer side of the Uncapapa camp, and then they sounded a bugle and the troops fired into the camp. " I at once set my wife upon my best horse, put my war-bonnet on her head, and told her to run away with the rest of the women. She did so, but in her hurry forgot to take the baby (a girl) ; after she had gone a little way she thought of the child and came back for it. I gave the child to her and she went off again. " I now put a flag upon a lodge-pole, and lifting it as high as I could, I shouted out as loud as I was able to my own men, ' I am Sitting Bull ; follow me.' 1 then rushed at the head of them up to the place where I thought Custer was, and just as we got close up to the troops they fired again. When I saw that the soldiers fired from their saddles and did but little damage to us, I ordered all my men to rush through their ranks and break them, which they did, but failed to break the ranks, although we suffered as little damage as before. I then shouted to them to try again, and putting myself at the head of my men we went at them again. This time, although the soldiers were keeping up a rapid firing (from their horses), we knocked away a whole corner and killed a great many, though I had only one man killed. After this we charged the same way several times, and kept driving them back for about half a mile, killing them very fast. After forcing them back there only remained five soldiers of this division and the interpreter alive, and I told my men to let them live. Then the interpreter, the man that the Indians called ' The White,' shouted out in Sioux and said, ' Custer is not in this division, he is in the other.' I then ordered all my men to come on and attack the other division. They did so, and followed me. The soldiers of this division fired upon us as soon as we got within range, but did us little harm When we had got quite close, and we were just going to charge them, a great storm broke right over us, the lightning was fearful, and struck a lot of the soldiers and horses killing them instantly. I then called out to my men to charge the troops and shouted out, ' The Great Spirit is on our side ; look how He is striking the soldiers down ! ' My men saw this, and they all rushed upon the troops, who were mixed up a good deal. About forty of the soldiers had been dismounted by the lightning killing and frightening their horses, and these men were soon trampled to death. It was just at this time that we charged them, and we easily knocked them off their horces, and then killed them with our 'coup sticks.' " In this way we killed all this division, with the exception of a few who tried to get away, but were killed by the Sioux before they could get very far. All through the battle the soldiers fired very wild and only killed twenty-five Sioux. Defeat of General Custer bv Sitting Bull. i6i I did not recognise General Custer in the fight, but only thought I did, but I would not be certain about it. I believe Custer was killed in the first attack, as we found his body, or what all the Indians thought was Custer's body, about the place that the first attack was made. I do not think there is any truth in the report that he shot himself. I saw two soldiers shoot themselves. The Sioux were following them, and in a few moments would have caught them, but they shot themselves with their pistols in the head. The body which all the Indians said was Custer's had its hair cut short. There were seven hundred and nine Americans killed. We counted them by putting a stick upon each body, and ^S Blackfoot Crossing. Indian Pow-wow with Governor-General proceeding -.n the Plain. (/•>■»« a S/alih by ike Morfuh ly Lome.) then taking the sticks up again and counting them. We counted seven hundred and seven carbines." It was greatly to the credit of the American people that when, years afterwards, we wished to get rid of Sitting Bull, who had taken refuge on Canadian soil, amnesty was granted to him and his people, and in reply to the query addressed by the Canadian Government as to his probable treat- ment should he surrender to the Americans, Mr. Evarts, United States Secretary, replied. " He will be treated as a great nation always treats its mataat 162 Canadian Pictures, iiffl I \\i ,M :■ prisoners of war." We were anxious to be rid of his presence, for he and his 5,000 were eating up the scanty game of our own Indians, and he himself, from his well-known astute and warlike character, gave anxiety to us, in that we never knew whether he were noi harbouring against our republican friends some evil design. He was often reported as about to embark in a raid or cattle-lifting expedition, an amusement for him which it would have been difficult for us, at that time, to prevent, and which might have yet led to a rupture of that friend- ship and excellent understanding which has most happily always prevailed along our north-western borders. The redoubtable Sitting Bull and his tribe aie now safely placed upon an American reserve of land, where the old warrior will be allowed to end his days in peace, and in whatever comfort the industry of his people and the generosity of the United States Government may bring him. After the Sioux, the most interesting people now left, and still retaining much of their aboriginal traits and customs, are the Blackfeet. Their braves say that their first ancestor received from the morning star, their war god, a magic ointment, wherewith if he anointed his feet, he would be endowed with such swiftness that the antelopes would flee in vain before him. There are many stalwart men amongst these people, and it was most interesting to observe them in the great councils held with them by the Governor-general in 1881. They were under the leadership of a chief named Crowfoot. He maintained good discipline among his people, listened attentively to the suggestions made to him to encourage them in agriculture, and while he complained that his allow- ance was not sufficient he always advised his tribes to remain friendly to the white man. The Indians came to the appointed place of meeting mounted, and in full battle array, firing their Winchester repeating rifles in the air, and shouting and waving their weapons. Behind them tripped in gay colours the women, bringing their children, for the children could not be left in camp, and the women must see what their lords and masters were after in their conference with the white chief. Arrived close to the tent where I awaited them, they sprang from their horses, and advanced to shake hands, which ceremony was performed by the chiefs and head men ; these then sat down in front of me, the chiefs in the front row, the head men behind, and ranged around in a deep half-circle was the rest of the tribe ; on the right an allied set of cousins, with their aunts and sisters behind them ; while on the left, in triple ranks, crouched on the ground, sat the warriors, round-limbed and lithe young fellows, clad with little but paint on the body, and with long warlocks, braided with brass, depending from their temples ; the rest of their hair — after being gathered up upon the crown, so that if an enemy wanted to have a good tug at the scalp, he could do so without trouble — being allowed to fall in long dark masses over their shoulders. From the flank of the line of braves, round in front to the right, stretched the ruck of the tribe and the women and children. A good deal of quiet sitting and smoking was indulged in before a word was spoken, and then it pi Indian Eloquence. 163 was always necessary to look on at a dance for some time longer before business was opened up, for nothing could be done until the pipe had been smoked and a dance had been performed. Strange and weird and uncouth these dances are; the magicians sit on the ground seating a tom-tom, and in a circle, fbllowmg each other in single file, strut, bow, howl, and jig the braves detailed for the duty ; pretending occasionally to be in pursuit or in flight, round and round they go until the music ceases, when all sit upon the ground. Sometimes the young men would insist on recounting their deeds m war, boasting of stealing cattle and of killing their foe. When by these processes the chiefs have sufficiently gathered together their thoughts to be able to detail their desires, each man rises in succession, and speaks Group at the Pow-wow. {From a Sketch by Sydney Hall.) while the interpreter stands listening, and at intervals turns to the white chief, and tells him in substance the eloquent and fervid harangue to which all are listening. Usually, amid much flowery rhetoric, the speech resolves Itself into a demand for more favours, and is, in short, nothing but an exclamarory beggar's oration. Often the interpreters will not take the trouble to render all the flowery language, although they themselves are lialt-breeds. On one occasion, after much eloquence had been exercised and the interpreters had said nothing, it was asked, "Why do you not interpret ?-what does he say ? " All the translation vouchsafed was-" Oh I he say grub!" The pleading for this very necessary article was backed Y 2 mm I IP I mmm i El 164 Canadian Pictures. 1 • SI by the certainly very cogent argument that the coming of the white man had taken from them their land, or rather, what they valued upon their land, that is to say, their great game, the buffalo ; each year the white man's presence had marked a decrease in the buffalo; and what was the Indian without the buffalo ? how could he get skins for himself, for his house ? how procure food or sinews to s«w the clothing together ? how live without his beloved buffalo ? The argument would certainly hold good, for although it is the improvement in the weapons of the chase, and the introduction of fire-arms, which has mainly contributed to diminisli the numbers of the buffalo, yet the very introduction of these fire-arms was due to the coming of the stranger. And what does the white man give in return for the evil thus inflicted ? He gives five dollars for every man, woman and child in the tribe every year to the chief, to be apportioned for the good of his nation ; he gives, also, when he is obliged to do so, a ration of flour ; and he gives above all, and every year to an increasing degree, that knowledge of husbandry which can alone save the red race. Already, in 1881, although these Blackfeet had but lately been engaged in hunting parties, some effect could be produced upon them by speaking of the advantages of potato growing. After haranguing them upon the subject, the chief warrior rose when the council had finished, and grasping my hand, and putting round my^ arm the bridle-cord of his horse, he asked me to accept the animal as a present (which of course could not be accepted), and repeatedly assured me that, although he had hitherto been the first in fighting, he would now be the first in working. I am sorry to say he did not stem very much pleased when he afterwards received a fowling-piece instead of a rifle for a present ; but the latter would have been of no use to him for duck shooting ; and I hear that he has kept his promise, and has cultivated his own potato patch this year. There is another great and scattered people, the Crees, and yet another with a stranger namp, dwellers in the rocky country on this side of Winnipeg, who call themselves the Ojibbeways. Differing in origin and language, the red men fought constantly against each other, and these wars, and the epidemic diseases to which, as they averred, they had become subject after contact with the whites, made them less numerous than the enormous extent of country over which they hunted would lead us to suppose. It is, however, only when the savage cultivates in some measure the ground that he can greatly multiply. Champlain and Frontenac found the Indians of the St. Lawrence growing corn. There is no evidence that the wild horsemen of the plains ate of any plant sown by their hands. In warfare they employed some methods of defence and communication which show that recent European army regulations enjoin practices long known to Sioux and Blackfeet. Thus, pits, whence the archers could discharge iheir arrows, are seen within the lines of old entrenchments, and when the Canadian mounted constabulary regiment first entered the " Lone Land," they found that their movements were signalled to the tribes by a very good "heliograph" The Feast of the Sun Dance. 165 system of " flashes." No such signalling was at that time known in our armies, and the troopers, as they rode along over the vast grass-covered plains, wondered what the twinkling points on th-r horizon could mean. Amongst all these tribes the custom, formerly universal, still obtains to have a great annual feast called the Sun Dance. This is the occasion appointed when the young mer may show of what mettle they are made, by undergoing a voluntary torture. The medicine man, the sage, herbalis-;, doctor, and mystery man, stands in a great circular tent made of boughs or skins.' Fantastically adorned with head-gear, and painted with streaks of on nge, crimson, or blue, he holds in his hand a sharp knife, and when he is about to perform the final ceremony, the victims have already fasted for many hours. They come one after another and stand before him, and on the chest of each he makes four cuts, so as to divide the flesh into two bands. In the bleeding wounds he places two long spigots of wood, lifting the muscles so as to pass these through the incisions of the flesh. He then attaches cords and ropes lo each end of each spigot of wood, run up round a central pole. Then the drums and tom-toms beat, and while all stand admiring their courage, one youthful warrior after another tries to break away from the attached, cords. The muscles start and strain, and the flesh is extended far from the chest ; the wounds gape, and the sight h- comes horrible, for the agony is dreadful. Still the wild dancing or hanging on the cords goes on, until the man falls exhausted, but free. It is almost inconceivable how much can be endured by these young men in their efforts to prove themselves worthy, in the eyes of the women and others of their tribe, of the manhood which gives important privileges, belonging to him who has shown himself bravest in the camp of the savage. Buflalo heads, guns, and other heavy objects are dragged about attached in the same horrible manner,' while it used to be considered a proof that the man would be the best at stealing horses who tied himself by the shoulder-blade to the bridle of a horse, whose every motion, as it stooped to feed, brought a fresh pang of pain. But enough of these^ terrible rites : they still continue, but the number who undergo the torture is diminishing year by year, and we may trust to the Gospel and to missionary efforts to put an entire stop to them before long. Much is said of the knowledge of simples possessed by the squaws. It is certain that they are very clever in producing decoctions and in making poultices from various trees and shrubs, whose healing properties are well known to science. Thus from the bark of a certain species of willow a preparation can be made which staunches hemorrhage, and quickly heals the woivid. Strange tales were told us of the efficacy of some of their medicines. u. g.ntieman employed in botanical research was puzzled by an application .i^^d^^ to a slight wound he had sustained. He had, when shooting, hurt his thumb by the accidental discharge of his gun, and for some days, having nothing but water with which to bathe it, he was in considerable pain, and the thumb became much inflamed. Lighting, in the course of his niarch, 1 I - ! ri'''' ^'^-^-^' -- °ften beautifully rrweatrL'fir-^''^^' ^-^ ^^"'^^ '- '-^ -^'^'^ ^'^ ^^^^^ — ' if Jl a'' "°' -"ter Jnto an Indians head to suppose that he is intruding .f he walks unannounced into your house, and sits down silently staring at you w/rf^'?rV- /''■ "^r ^' ^'^'"^ y"' ^"^^ 'f y°" -ter hi? abo'de We lifted the skins, and introduced ourselves to the chief's family as a ma^er of course We had walked through the rows of dusky tents, anc selected he best painted and ta lest, and the crowds of copper-coloured, weK-dressed Indians squaws, and children, together with the numerous dogs, ali looked on the visit of the party of white men in a most unconcerned fashion. So, in entering the chiefs quarters, the family did not seem either glad or the reverse. A young couple who had been exchanging confidences in one of the fur-strewn compartments on the floor ceased to talk, and gazed at us. The old chief sat on his bearskin and moked, h.s pipes, of beautilul red stone, being carefully arranged in order by his side Perhaps a more cordial greeting may sometimes be given • but these people had said their say at a great council on the previou! evem-ng and had not got all they desired. Hence, perhaps, the apathy ^' At a subsequent meeting with another portion of the same tribe the squaws came m long procession, riding their ponies, which had ^r'avovs harnessed to them. This is almost exactly the rude machine used in the Highlands for hay carrying. Two poles are fastened so that the butt ends rest on the ground, and the lighter ends project beyond the pony's shoulders to which they are attached. A cross-piece unites the ends near the ground knd behind the horse's hocks. On the cross-piece the goods or children are placed The woman mounts the horse, sitting man-fashion. Some of the dresses were I70 Canadian Pictukks. U{:i "^ very prettily adorned with beads and rows of the milk teeth of the wapiti, the ornaments being sewn on to robes of finely cleaned antelope and mountain sheep skin, v/hich descend nearly to the women's ankles. Their mode of disposing of the dead is seen in the engraving, where a corpse is raised on a platform, out of the way of wolves. Sometimes they place the wrapped-up body in a tree. But the manner of sepulture is various Many tribes bury. None burn the dead. Indian Burial on the Plains. At Brantford in Ontario and at Sault St. Marie may be seen excellent schools, at which Indian children are taught several trades as well as other branches of education. They are quick at learning, and i lake good carpenters, printers, and shoemakers. One of the Iroquois, Oroniateka, was, by the help of Dr. Acland, educated partly at Oxford, and has practised as a doctor of medicine with great success. He is a pure-blooded Indian. On the plains it is found that the half-white, if he has a French father, will take to the nomad Christianity the Foundation of Civi LISATION. 171 Ijfe of his Indian mother; but, on the other hand, if the father be of British descent he takes to the father's ways, and becomes a farmer. This reminds one of the devotion shown by the French in l->ance to their moihers, who often have more influence than has the father in shaping their character. 1 he few savage tribes which yet remain in possession of their old customs and manners do not form by any means a prominent feature of even the most unsettled portions of Canada. The talk is not of Indians, but of engines, of the plough, of the self-binder, of the reaper, of the hay-cutter. It is of the price of timber for building, of the advantages of the long grass for thatching, of the utility of straw for burning, and of the great output of coal which is Iready assured from the newly-opened mines of Alberta. The speculations are not of a visit from the wild man, but whether the splendid crop in the ground shall be visited by any early frost, of the further facilities in the way ot transport the railways shall afford, or projected lines may still further increase • or Shall a new steamer on some river be able to make her return trip in time to carry off some of the superabundant grain ? People often speak of the difference and inferiority in worth of the Christian Indian as compared with the native, untouched by jthe influences of the white man. lint this is not only a careless but singularly unhappy mode of speech It IS not, It need hardly be said, the conversion of the heathen which has bad ettects but the contact with a civilisation which has its debasing as well as its ennobling qualities. Nothing has kept peace among native tribes in their original wild state but the Christianity introduced by the missionaries, who have .sola ed and unsupported as they were in old days, yet produced a marked effect wherever they took up their residence. The early French missionaries prepared the way for the agents of the great fur-trading companies. They gave to them the example to treat kindly, considerately, and justly the red man It IS only too true that the fur traders at one time dealt with that worst of poisons, brandy, in exchange for skins; but in the main they followed the advice and precepts of the bringers of the Gospel. Bitter conflicts were thereby avoided and the foundation laid for the unhindered advance of civilisation It IS undoubtedly true that the first effects of the advance does no good to tne native Just as his appearance; and often his health suffers at the commence- ment for the change in his lodging and apparel, when instead of the birch bark or hide tent he takes to bad hovels, and wears, in lieu of his buffalo robe and embroidered " leathers," the cast-off clothing-incongruous and gaudy if he can only procure such-of the European; so at first, in manners and habits he mutates, not the best of the white man's ways, but what he sees the most of namely the worst. Although Cooper in his novels exaggerated the stateliness and virtues of the red man, yet in the main his picture of him is a true one angularly honest, the Indian would not touch the food supply of a friend although he himself might be almost starving. He spoke the truth, and was true in his friendship, however merciless, cruel, and crafty against his enemies z 2 m m m s^. .^^ii^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) * {./ ^.^M i^j^' z v.. W t 1.0 1.1 11.25 iai2,9 i«teJ 122 I 1^ 12.0 1.4 11.6 /. Phofejgfaphic Sdences Corporation 2S WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 miB 172 Canadian Pictures. i"! It is natural that the savage virtue should vanish when brought in contact with the manifold vices of civilisation. The leavening element of that civilisation is the Christianity which may, and does, touch the savage also, so that he becomes in time better, materially and morally, than before. For the proof of such assertion we need only look at such Indian communities as those at Brantford. The change in his condition when he emerges from savagery may bring him for a generation new troubles ; but it must be remembered that it saves him also from the old, and that the losses formerly suffered by him in the incessant wars and occasional famines are no longer to be feared by him. Absorption by the white races rather than extermination appears to be their destiny. Cariboo Horns. {Ftvm the colltction 0/ tht Mari/uis of Lome.) '■'I I i THE NEW TERRITORIES. ■#w»#iwiii*>iii I MWJa'BBiifciariawxaaiBrBii'iraa Bl ! |;1 iNIHAN DkESSES, WEAI'ONS, AND ORNAMKNTS. {/''r,'r/t the Collection of the Miiyiptis o/ Lottie.) ..MJMSliS^h: JLmkkJk. : A NoKTK Saskatchewan Steamer. (l-'roiii the Maniuis of Lome's collection o/ /itiolograflis.) K^ CHAPTER IX. The New Territories. The Stern-wheel Steamer— Prince Albert— Carleton— Fort Edmonton— The Peace River— Athabasca —The Bell Farm— The System .> Land ArpRopRiATioN in the North-West— Comparative Pro- duction OF THE North-West and other Parts— Alberta— Buffalo Herds— First View of the Rocky Mountains. BEFORE we go further along the Canadian Pacific Railway line, it will be well to tal: a a passing look at the two great provinces which lie to the north, namely, Saskatchewan and Athabasca ; called after the great rivers which, flowing from the Rocky Mountains, join their waters near Prince Albert, and pour their united flood into Lake Winnipeg. Each of the Saskatchewan River branches is roughly 800 miles in length, and when united they have a course of some 900 miles to run before they reach the lake. The province called after them has an area of 100,000 square miles. A railway will soon give access to the districts around the lower parts of these streams. Steamers have navigated for some years the North Saskatchewan, and on the southern branch more vessels are now being placed. The river rises in spring after the ice has broken up, an event which takes place about the 23rd of April. Until October the vessels can find water, but in the ai.tumn the stream becomes very shallow, and the numerous and ever-shifting sand-bars cause much delay. The Missouri and the upper portions of the Mississippi are very similar in this respect, and the difficulties in the latter are well known through Mr. Clemens' (Mark Twain) able writings. The first thing which seems odd to a European is that there is only one paddle wheel, and this single wheel is placed at the stern, so that the craft looks like an upturned wheelbarrow. The feature which will, secondly, seem the oddest is a curious erection of beams on the forward deck. Two things, like the gyns used in lifting heavy weights, are placed on N 176 Canadian Pictures. ■ r !■ m I each side. The heavy weight to be lifted in this case is the vessel itself. As soon as very challow water is struck, two long beams are put over the side, the wheel astern churns up the water, and the ship is fairly lifted on these, as a lame man is on crutches, for a few feet over the obstacle. The poles are then hoisted, and put forward again into the sand, and another step onward is made. Where such a rig is not provided, the only means of making progress consists in getting out a hawser and attaching it to something on the bank. The capstan is then manned and the hawser hauled upon, and with much shouting, rocking of the boat, and convulsive effort of the engines, step by step, way is gained, until deeper water is reached. Much time used to be lost in old days from the absence of the electric light on board. The want of such means of illumination made it necessary to " tie up " every evening at sundown, and remain stationary under the bank until morning showed the pilot the surface of the stream. To men to whom time was not a matter of importance these halts were not unpleasant. It gave time for an excursion on shore, for the shooting of the sharp-tailed grouse of the plain, or possibly for a shot at bear or buffalo. All big game have now vanished from the frequented routes, and the utmost excitement enjoyed by our dogs was a night chase around the state rooms after a flying squirrel, which had come on board from a neighbouring poplar thicket. Prince Albert is already a well-settled pface. A Highlander, Bishop MacLean, from the Isle of Mull, is the Anglican bishop. Parallel with the Saskatchewan and to the south flows the Carrot River, along whose valley there i abundance of fine land. Here too we meet the forest, which exists for 700 miles near the great river to the north, coming down to clothe its banks again in the neighbourhood of Edmonton. The bishop points out his first " palace," a little log-wood shanty. Nor is his present abode imposing. But there is real grandeur in the work he and his colleagues of other denominations have set themselves to do, and have already succeeded in doing so well. These early evangelisers and priests of the wilderness can often speak several Indian dialects. They have peacefully prepared the mind of the red man for the greater changes yet to come. Their place is no sinecure. Long before they can even hope to have civilised towns and farms around them, they must be prepared to undertake long journeys, and to toil ceaselessly with no expectation of any reward other than that their consciences must give them. And it has been for this only that they have striven. Now that Providence has directed towards their lonely habitations the throng of emigrants, they have an additional responsibility, and one that they will meet and accept, and a reward for which they have indeed unconsciously worked, for it was never expected. At Carleton, an old fort some way higher up the river, we heard, even in 1881, rei^orts of the excellence of the land to the north ; and now Colonel Butler, the author of that remarkably well-written book, the Grea^ Lone Land, has taken a district where experiments in farming have been begun with the best promise. Twenty years ago Lord Milton passed the winter here on the borders of the Fertiuty of the New Territories. i;7 northern forest. The buffalo herds were numerous to the south, and his party had plenty of s^ort, while the Wood Cree Indians proved themselves to be good neighbours. H.s most interesting book, The North-West Passage by Land IS well worth reading, for he passed through that portion of the country to the back of the northern branch of the Saskatchewan which will ultimately prove to be one of the most favoured tracts of the whole continent The grasses are green the whole summer through. No drought affects them, and the near presence of the trees proves the moisture to be greater than further south. He set out from Carleton on the loth October, crossing the horses, carts and baggage by scow boat to the north side of the river. " We were now travelling, he says, "through mixed country. The weather was still beauti- fully fine and during the day pleasantly warm. The nights began to be very keen and the lakes were already partly covered with a thin coating of ice. The wild fowl had taken their departure for the south, only a few stragglers remaining from the later broods Many of the latter fall victims to their procrastination being frequently found frozen fast in the ice. But this, the Indians assert, takes place in consequence of their excessive fatness, which renders them unable to rise on the wing and they are thus detained behind to suffer a miserable death. In four days we arrived at the Shell River, a small tributary of the Saskatchewan. The next day brought us to a lovely little spot, a small prairie of perhaps 200 acres, surrounded by low wooded hills, and on one side a lake winding with many an inlet amongst the hills and into the plain, while here and there a tiny promontory, richly clothed with pines and aspens, stretched out into the water. The beauty of the place had struck the rude voyagers, its only visitors except the Indians, and they had named it La Belle Prairie " Lord Milton tells us how fat and flourishing the horses of his party were in ^fr"'?" , • " ^^^ ^^^'' '"'"^"^ '°°'^ ^' -he commencement of the winter We had seen them or their tracks from time to time, and knew in what direction they had wandered. One of the party followed their trail without difficulty, and discovered them about eight or ten miles away. We were very much astonished at their fine condition. Although very thin when the snow began to fall they were now perfect balls of fat. and as wild and full of spirit as if fed on corn-a most unusual condition for Indian horses. The pasture is so nutritious that animals fatten rapidly even in winter-when they have to scratch away the snow to feed-if they find woods to shelter them from the piercing winds. No horses are more hardy and enduring than those of this country, yet their only food is the grass of the prairies and the vetches of the copses. The milch cows and draught oxen at Red River and in Minnesota, feeding on grass alone were generally in as fine condition as the stall-fed cattle of the Baker Street Show " He noticed at Fort Pitt, on his way up the Saskatchewan, how productive the farming was, although this was then on a very small scale. Potatoes were abundant, and attained an immense size. Carrots and turnips grew equally well, and wheat would, no doubt, flourish as well as on Red River A A ■ippiipi 178 Canadian Pictures. The country around he describes as "glorious "— not, indeed, grandly picturesque, but rich and beautiful ; a country of rolling hills and fertile valleys, of lakes and streams, groves of birch and aspen, and miniature prairies ; a land of a kindly soil, and full of promise to the settler to come in future years, when an enlightened policy shall open out the wealth now uncared for or unknown. He remarks on the beauty of the blue flowers which spring up in such numbers in the north. In the more open country to the south an orange lily is the flower which grows most luxuriantly after the disappearance of the snow, and this is followed by the little sunflowers which spangle the prairie, and in many places make it blaze with golden colour. For my part, I never tire of the summer aspect of the plains. In the v/inter they are often desolate-looking enough ; and what landscape is not ? There is at all events this to be said for the winter prairie, namely, that the sky is seldom only of a dull grey above it, and is oftener than in Europe of a bright blue, filled with the cheerfulness of sunlight. There is one drawback in summer, and this is the universal presence of the mosquito ; but take a day in autumn, and then see if you do not enjoy the prairie. If you are in the eastern parts, the long grass is nearly up to your hips as you stand in it, and its green blades are varied with purple vetches and tall asters. Your horizon is circumscribed, for poplar clumps, with their white stems trembling in the noonday mirage, are not far off, in whatever direction you look. Out of the netting of poplar you emerge into a more open world, with hardly a tree. The grasses are not 30 long, but still the lily or the sunflower is present in masses of blossom. There are marshes thick with tall sedge and long tawny grass around the margin. There are clear pools and lakelets fringed with reed ; and in September what numbers of wild fowl ! — swans, difficult to approach, and tall white cranes, and the small sand-crane in flocks. We hear cries in the air above us, and, looking up, we see against a grey cloud great white birds flapping heavily along. They are pelicans, white except the quill feathers; and behind them now, but rapidly overtaking them, is a long string of other birds, also white, except the wing feathers. These fly in waving curves, looking in the distance like rows of pearls waved in the air. They are snow-geese, coming, like the pelicans, from the far northern breeding-grounds, and they alight on a lake near at hand, making a long white band on its blue water. They are worth stalking, and an attempt is made, but only one is killed, and the rest take the wing and are no more seen that day. But the ducks are tamer, and come circling back, and afford excellent sport. What a variety ! The most common are blue-wing teal, shoveller, dusky duck, and mallard. Certainly there is no easier and better way of having wild-fowl shooting than by a visit to the North-west. Once out of Manitoba the land swells into waves, and from each ridge a marvel- lous extent of country is seen. The lakes are fewer, and a long march is sometimes necessary before a good camping-ground is found. The herbage, except in such spots, is poorer, and the general effect given by it is a dull grey-green, shading Aspect ok tiik Western Pi,ArNs. ,70 !!!;!!1h "^'JJ^'^^^;-!''''^"^^ !^ Srcy and ochre, and then far away these tints become m.xed wuh dehcate pinks and cobalt blue. •• Far away ?" Yes indeed the r^hlrvo: f ^'" ^°" ''-^•^^t ^'- '— cleameL or their ;:suchtha before Pbt"'''^ T"" ""? '" ^'f '""^'^ "•■ ^° ^^^ ^^^-^ ^^^ wide horizons before. Pla eaux, hollows, ndges and plains lie beneath yoi,, on and on and Th re'is" no '"' '' .'^'^ ?' ''' ^"' "'"' '^^"^ ''^^ ^^"^ °^ - •"d^fi-'^e vasVess those oin^nd'^M' T^ '\"'''''', '''' ^''''' ^"^ '' ^^'^"^^'-'^ ^"^ ^^-"^ers on to n harlnv of T -'''^^^^'^%"here the skies, light and beautiful in tint, are joined in harmony of colour to the endless swell and roll of the uninhabited world ;■**= i Fort EdmOxNton. (From the Afnrfuis of Lome s culleilioH 0/ fhologm/'hs.) beneath them. A wonderful sense of freedom, and yet of loneliness, is borne in upon you ; and you feel perhaps that you would like to keep the liberty and yield some of the loneliness and pitch your tent and live, if live in the wilderness' you must, away to the north, where the streams chime in swifter currents through the more varied lands, and forest succeeds meadow, and fertile dale and prairie have near them the whispering shelter of the firs, and morning and even ng ifthe terrnTi;': "^"^''"^^ ^"^^"^^ °' '^'^ ^"' ^^ ''^'^'^ °" ^^^ — «^"^' We will hurry on to Edmonton, and hear the reports there. Manv men from Ontario have got property here, and there is abundance of coa^ as well as of _ timber in the vicinity. Horses do well when left out in winter. This ,s now comparatively well-known ground, but there mav be some interest ,n endeavouring to see what lies beyond the paths which are already more or less beaten tracks. There is no stranger sensation than A A 2 '\ym li I M I' ' Tn^sm 1 80 Canadian Picturks. It that of carapinfj night after night in meadows which are full of such good grass that you f("c;l inclined to look round for their owner and to ask his leave. But there have been none from the beginning of time to say to you "nay." Even the sava;Te has here never molested the pioneer. No one having a taste for exploration, for sport, or for settlement in some far-away but fair region, where he may live as the pioneer of a community on land certain to rise in value, need fear to pursue his object on account of any native's hostility. There is no one to hinder him, if he wishes to break the soil where the great Peace River forces its way through the grand masses of the mountains, or settle near the Hudson's Bay Company's posts further down along the banks of the deeply-wooded stream. There is a singular charm in thus being among the first in a new land, but by and by more companionship is desired : and it is not to be doubted that each wave of emigration as it is poured westward will send many a stout fellow onward until he rests satisfied with his farm, from which he may see the giant and serrated ridges and peaks of the Rocky Mountains far away, cut clear and distinct, dark blue, against the western sunset light. But we must hear what our Edmonton friends say. " A party went in 1882 to Peace River from Edmonton. They went determined to farm, but having lost three out of their four oxen on the trip, and not being able to get in as early as they expected, they were unable to do anything the first summer, and were compelled to come back in order to get a new start. They are very much pleased with the country and climate, and consider both superior to Edmonton, They had erected a shanty and done some breaking on a claim a few miles from Dunvegan last fall, and two men remained on it until the 26th of February, when one left for Edmonton. The weather was very stormy and cold in January, the thermometer going down to 56° and 57° below zero on two days about the middle of the month. The snow was about three feet deep in the latter end of February. During the latter part of February and all March the weather was very fine. Snow began to go off about the middle of March, and the ground was bare in the first week of April. A very hard crust formed on the snow in March, but this did not prevent the Hudson's Bay Company's herd of horses which were wintering out from doing well. They kept along the north bank of the river, where the sun has more effect on the snow than on the plain behind. The Peace Rfver broke up about the middle of April, and grass began to turn green in the latter end of the month. The spring was somewhat later than usual. No horses died during the winter. " The piece of breaking, about three acres in extent, which had been done last fall was sown this spring with wheat, barley, and oats, and the grain was up on the loth of May. The crop sown at Dunvegan was also up at that time and looking well. " Rabbits and chickens are plentiful all over the country, also ducks and geese wherever there are any lakes or ponds. Of large game, bears, both black, brown, and grizzly, are the most plentiful. The grizzly is generally found near TlIF, Pl'Ari. RiVFK. i8i the mountains, and the black bear on the; plains. Moose are not as common as a few years ago, and are found principally around Fort St. John. There are a few timber wolves. Fo.xes, both red, cross, and grey, are very numerou.s, also marten and hsher. I he claim was left in charge of one of the men, who went to leace River m 1883. and intends to reside there permanently. He left Dunvegan on the loth of May on a raft loaded with Hudson's Bay Company goods for Battle River, which comes into the Peace below the mouth of Smoky River. The trip to Smoky River occupied a day. "The Peace is a grand stream, being half as wide again as the Saskatchewan at Edmonton, very deep, with a strong current and a few islands in it The banks are very high and slope back from the river, the northern being all praine and the southern all timber. There are no high-cut banks, as on the liitKtALO Hunting. (/■>!>;« CnliiM's '• Xalth American Indians."] Saskatchewan. The Smoky River is nearly as large at its mouth as the Saskatchewan." This letter refers to regions which are as yet far removed from any considerable settlement ; but, from the accounts received, the Province of Athabasca — such is the new name given to a country as large as France — will be one of the finest in the Canadian Union. To reach Edmonton it required, a few years ago, ninety days of travel across the prairies from Winnipeg. Slowly the old caravans of Red River carts traversed the trails over the sod of the vast plains. But, unless it were in places where small watercourses made a marsh, the trails formed good roads. By these or by the river, people have still to travel to Edmonton; but one of the proposed railways, which is certain to pay well, will be that which shall proceed by the forks of the Saskatchewan up the pr 183 CaNAPIAN 1*I( TURKS. :i northern branch of that river, and proceed from Hdnionton to Diinvejran, on the Peace River, and open up that ^^reat ^rrain country. It is ini|)ossible to estimate the amount of wheat which must be raised in the lifetime of many now here from these parts of the central coiuIneiU. The dryness which is present sometimes in the south is wholly absent from the richly grassed steppes that lie in an inunense arched zone from Kdmonton to Prince Albert, having on its northern »ulge the spruce forests, which end only when the sub-Arctic circle is reached. The American consul at Winnipeg. Mr. Taylor, says, " TIk! altitude of the Athabasca and Peace River districts is less, and the trend of the Pacific winds through the Rocky Mountains is more marked than at Battleford, a place once proposed as the capital of the North-West Territories, owing to its central situation between Edmonton and the eastern edges of the plains. It was on the banks of the Peace River, well in latitude 60", that Sir Alexander Mackenzie records on the loth May, the grass so well grown that the buffalo, attended by their young, were cropping the uplands. The climate is not matt;rially different west of Lake; Athabasca in latitude 60" to what it is west of Lake Superior in latitude 46°." Professor Macoun shows two heads of wheat, one from Prince AIb(>rt in latitude 53°, and another from Fort Vermilion on Peace River, latitude 59°, and from each cluster of the two he separated five well-formed grains, with a corresponding length of the head. " Here," he says, " has the perfection of the wheat plant attained, according to the well-known physical law, nearly the most northei-n limit of its successful growth. The line of equal mean temperature, especially for the season of vegetation between March and October, instead of following lines of latitude, bends from the Mississippi valley far to the north, carrying the zone of wheat from Minnesota away to the 60" parallel in the valley of the Peace River, and reproducing the summer heats of New Jersey, and Southern Pennsylvania, in Minnesota and Dakotah, and those of Northern Pennsylvania and Ohio in the valley of the Saskatchewan. Within the isothermal lines that inclose the zone west and north-west of Minnesota lies a vast area of fertile lands, from which a dozen great new states might be cut." Athabasca has 120,000 square miles within its limits. As long ago as the days of Franklin's journey across these plains, Richardson, who travelled with him as naturalist to his expedition, was struck with the fair soil, and the evidence of a comparatively warm climate in winter, along the banks of the vast Mackenzie River. It is evident that where a heavy wood growth can live by the water's edge, that there wheat can be grown. But as yet it is a land of much mystery. Hunters tread its vast woods and prairies for the sake of the fur- bearing animals, notably fox, fisher, marten, lynx, mink, wolverine, musk-rat, beaver, wolf, bear, and musk-ox. This last is a creature almost as grotesque in appearance as is the buffalo. It has much of the sheep in its characteristics. Its horns are sheep-like, in their rising from flat bases spread across the forehead, but the animal is a huge one, with a coat of hair six inches in length on the back. Fakmin(; r\ Assinihoia. 'S3 he colour is dark, uith a li^lu patch on the hack. Curious, too. are th.- fish of these coumries. most of the.n well and truly described hy old Richardson. To the list of natural leatur(>s wc must ,,rol,al,ly add the presence of petroleum. It at stalks, another is and 1,200 ids of the :ees boast t that can ighty-ono le States. ry line, or )eac them 185 The following diagram shows a township with the sections numbered :— N W 31 o3 34 35 36 30 29 28 27 • 26 25 19 20 21 22 23 24 18 17 16 15 1 14 13 7 8 9 1 10 1 1 12 — ■ 6 5 4 3 2 I S E The sections are apportioned as follows :— O/^cH for Homestead and Pre-eniptions.~'^o%. 2, 4, 6, 10, 12, 14, 16 18 -'o 22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 2,(>. Belongingto the Canadian Pacific Raihvay.~^09,.\, I. ^ 79 \x is 17 19.21,23,25,27,31,33,35. ' ' ' • ^' ^' Nos. I, 9, 13, 21, 25, :^i along the main line Winnipeg to Moose Jaw sold to the Canada North-VVest Land Company, the balance of their lands beine in Southern Manitoba. Hudson s Bay Company's Lands.— ^os. 8, 26. SWwo/ Sections.—NoH. 11, 29 (reserved by Government solely for school purposes). Here is a statement of comparative produce in the north-west, and other countries; but it is by no means to be assumed that all the country yields twenty-nine bushels : — an north- is square, 'ided into one chain on everv \\in:.vT. Manitoha, average yield per acre . Great Britain and Ireland ... I\linnesota (the Empire Wheat State of the Union) United States . • • • • Ontario ...... South Australia 29 bushels. 28-5 „ '4'5i .. 12-3 „ 1 1 "5 » 8 .. R B ■■II !!!ll 1 86 Canadian Pictures. The same, though to a less extent, applies to barley and oats. The averages of barley are : — BARLEY. Manitoba, average yield per acre Minnesota Wisconsin ,, Iowa Ohio ' .. Indiana „ Illinois ., OATS. Manitoba, average yield per acre Minnesota ,. Iowa , „ Ohio 39 bushels. 25 20 33 19 19 17 57 bushels. 28 .. 23 This remarkable growth is accounted for by the fact that the cultivated plants yield the greatest product near the northernmost limit of their growth. Hence the perfection of wheat in Manitoba, where, instead of being developed too rapidly, as is the case further south, the undue luxuriance of the stem or leaf is restrained by the cool, late spring, and the chief development of the plant thrown into the ripening period. The assertion of the distinguished American climatologlst, Blodgett, "that the basin of the Winnipeg is the seat of the greatest average wheat product on this continent, and probably in the world," has been proved correct by the record of a yearly average of over twenty-nine bushels per acre from 1876 to 1882. The following conies from the Canadian Pacific Railway's Handbook, and is useful, being accurate. An approximate estimate of the first outlay, in a moderate way, of the settler who has more than ^100 capital : — Provisions for one year, say . . . /50 Yoke of oxen 2>7 One CO"' ...... 7 16 Waggon ...... Plough and harrow .... 7 Sundry implements .... f Cooking stove, with tinware . . . s Furniture, &c., say 13 Sundry expenses, say .... 10 /I49 Advice to the Settler. 187 of th( To the above must he added first payment on land, unless he takes a home- stead and preemption ; but an energetic man will find time to earn something as an offset to a portion of his first expenses, either on the railway, or by working for neighbourmg farmers ; and in addition to this there is the chance of obtaining a partial crop the first year. A settler, therefore, who can boast of having ^500 on his arrival in Manitoba is an independent man, and cannot fail to succeed, with ordinary care and energy. Many settlers on arrival have not a tenth part of that sum, and yet they succeed. The cost of breaning, ploughing, sowing, and harvesting is estimated on good authority at from £2 45. to £2 ids. per acre which, of course, includes the settler's own labour and that of his family. The settler from older countries should be careful to adapt himself to those methods which experience of the country has proved to be wise, rather than try to employ in a new country those practices to which he has been accustomed at home. For instance, with respect to ploughing, or, as it is called, ••breaking" the prairie, the method in Manitoba is quite different from that in the old country. The prairie is covered with a rank vegetable growth, and the question is how to subdue this, and so make the land available for farming purposes. Experience has proved that the best way is to plough a shallow furrow, and turn over a furrow from twelve to sixteen inches wide. It is especially desirable for the farmer who enters early in the spring to put in a crop of oats on the first breaking. It is found by experience that the sod pulverises and decomposes under the influence of a growing crop quite as effectually, if not more so, than when simply turned and left by itself for that purpose. There are also fewer weeds, which is of very great importance, as it frequently happens that the weeds which grow soon after breaking are as difficult to subdue as the sod itself. Large crops of oats are obtained from sowing on the first breaking, and thus not only is the cost defrayed, but there is a profit. It is also of great importance to a settler with limited means to get this crop the first year. One mode of this kind of planting is to scatter the oats on the grass, and then turn a thin sod over them. The grain thus buried quickly finds its way through, and in a few weeks the sod is perfectly rotten. As for fuel, specimens of coal have lately been taken out from various parts of the- country, and the analysis and experience in the burning of the mineral show that although the coal of the tertiary formations in Manitoba and the eastern part of Assiniboia will provide fair fuel, it is not to be mentioned in the same breath with the coal found from Medicine Hat onward to the mountains, and northwards along the line near their " foot-hills." Alberta has 100,000 square miles, and was named after the Princess Louise, one of whose Christian names is Alberta. It is the great region embracing the head-waters of the two Saskatchewans. Its surface is, in the south and centre, a rolling prairie, treeless except near the water courses. On the west side of the foot-hills of the mountains, among the gorges, and in the north, there is a rich growth of spruce and pine. Anthracile has been found in a vein five n B 2 I % \\ i88 Canadian Picturks. II feet thick in one of the glens, and veins of excellent coal of the cretaceous period of geology seem to underlie the whole country near the mountains. Excellent mines have been opened near Medicine Hat. The one great necessity of the settler is thus bountifully supplied by Providence. There is also plenty of good clay for brickmaking. Principal Grant, in his interesting account of his journey from " ocean to ocean," thus speaks of the coal in the north and of the scenery. He knew only the stuff found on the surface or rolled in the streams, and says that the " men he met had been in the habit of making fires with it whenever they wished the fire to remain in all night. The exposure of the coal on the Pembina River was a mere nothing to that on the north fork of the North Saskatchewan ; that there the seams were eighteen feet thick ; that in one canyon was a wal Stalking Antelopes. (Fivm CalUn's " North .tmerkaH tnJinns.") :lf!-: of seams so hard that the weather had no effect on them ; and that on all the rivers east of Edmonton, and west to the Rocky Mountains, are abundant showings of coal." In the valley of the Athabasca River, which flows through part of Alberta, he describes the view near the Roche Ronde, which is a type of many others. " Roche Ronde was to our right, its stratification as distinct as the leaves of a half-opened book. The mass of the rock was lime- stone, and what at a distance had been only peculiarly bold and rugged outlines, were now seen to be the different angles and contortions of the strata. And such contortions ! One high mass twisting up the sides in serpentine folds, as if it had been so much pie-crust ; another bent in great waving lines like BUFFALOKS, ETC. 189 petrified billows. The colouring, too, was all that the artist could desire Not only the dark green of the spruce in the corries. which turned into black when far up but autumn tints of red and gold as high as vegetation had chmbed on the hill-sides ; and above that streaks and patches of yellow, green rusty red, and black relieving the grey mass of limestone ; while up the valley every shade of blue came out, according as the hills were near or far away ; and summits hoary with snow bounded the horizon." Some time will pass before travellers see these northern mountains, for the Inter-Oceanic Line, which was to have passed by the Tete Faune Cache 1 ass, has been taken far to the south, through the Kicking Horse Pass. We will iollow the line from the frontier of Assiniboia. Soon after crossing the South Saskatchewan on a long wooden bridge, we shall see upon the prairies herds ot cattle for the Government hcxs leased tracts of grazing land extending over all the south-west corner of the territory near the mountains. Many of the beasts are of the best Lnghsu stock, Mr. Cochrane and others having given large sums for high-grade bulls. The bulk of the herds are from the Western States. The ranchmen, as the lessees and owners of big cattle farms are called, will tell you in the United States that it will not pay to have cattle where they must be fed in winter, and no doubt it is far less expensive to keep them in districts where it is not necessary to collect winter fodder. But forage is easily procured, and shelter not difficult to provide, so that we may expect cattle- keeping to become an extensive business. As we have seen, horses can live out through the winter easily enough, and for them the area of good country is much greater than for unhoused cattle. Throughout this country we saw in 188 1 the dung of buffalo, although we only met a small herd of thirteen young bulls' Dr. Macgregor correctly describes " the boundless hay-fields, everywhere pitted with buffalo wallows ; seamed by furrow-like and parallel buffalo trails and thickly sprinkled with buffalo 'chips ' and their whitening bones You can never go far without seeing the horned skull of this once famous dweller of the prairie bleaching in the sun. The wallows are saucer-like depressions in the ground, made by the buffaloes rubbing themselves ; and so densely were these prairies at one time filled by these innumerable herds, that in many places you will find these wallows every few yards. They are an especial characteristic of the country, and will always be found to be deepest around a large stone which IS invariably utilised by the bull buffaloes for sharpening their horns for battle The narrow trails beaten by their hoofs as they follow each other in line of march from one feeding-ground to another, and from lake to lake are also of very frequent occurrence, as one painfully learns from the rough joitinjr they cause. Any one in difficulty about water can always find it by following these trails. Bu i. z herds once on the move are difficult to turn aside Thev have been known to go right through an encampment, and even to have broken a line of mounted policemen." When the herds of tlicsc creatures were so numerous that the earth was J90 Canadian Pictures. black with their moving masses, a ride among them and the slaughter of the bulls must have been exciting work ; but to run down a scattered band may be amusing at first, but is a sport which must soon pall on a man, for it is so easily accomplished. A good horse will always outrun a buffalo, and can easily lay his rider alongside of him, and then it is impossible to miss the huge, ungainly brute. When wounded he is formidable only to a dismounted man. Another denizen of these territories is as graceful as the buffalo is un- gainly. This is the two-pronged antelope, a lovely animal. They are seen in companies, usually from six to twenty or more in number. Cursed with an insatiable curiosity, they cannot resist examining every strange object, and it is common to attract them by a handkerchief on a stick, while the hunter lies among the grass awaiting their approach. A little grey wolf, called the coyote, is common. A most impudent beast he is, prowling round the camps, and possessing himself of any wounded game left unguarded. A ride after one usually results in failure to get within shot of him. With a native horse or " bronco," riding over the grassy plains is very pleasant ; but a strange horse from the east is apt to put his foot into one of the countless holes and roll over. These holes are the result of the united labour of several varieties of ground squirrel an4 of a little grey badger, and until these are exterminated there will be many a " cropper " for the horseman. They say that the badger's hole is a sure proof of water existing not far from the surface. If so, the augury is a happy one, for their dwellings are numerous enough. Few will forget the first view of the mountains. In 1881, after the long march across the plains, the effect was heightened to us by the length of time during which we had seen no steep ground except the cut banks of rivers, banks that, sloping quickly, faced each other at an interval of many hundred yards. Between these the prairie levels have been grooved out in past ages by the streams. On an evening in September, when the jaded horses had with difficulty accomplished their day's labour, they were halted at a place where there was a sudden ending of the flatter grass surfaces. Immediately below us was one of these valleys. The dip of the ground into it, and the rise out of it on the opposite side over a mile away, was not so great as at Red Deer River, but the fall was to a depth of roo feet, and then green level ground stretched in curves in the cliffs around a winding bright river, with bossy woods in great clumps along its margin. Three-quarters of a mile away, on the flat ground on the further side, and nestling under the further cliff, was a large Indian camp. There must have been 150 "tepees" or wigwams, and the smoke came from many fires, hiding the green valley in that place with a dull, blue vapour. Far up the stream more smoke mist showed that other camps were there also. This was one of the principal quarters of the nation into whose old territories we had entered. It was the old hpme of the Blackfeet, a people who were so hostile not many years ago that they would allow no white man into their country. The Rockv Mou.ntains. 191 Beyond and above this camp and the sheltering diffs stretched again the vast plains, rising to the westward in higher fold^ ; and there, just underneath .. M. 'S!%S y'^il^t.i-; I fe \'--^ri- a great, far-stretching distant line of cloud, what faint blue points were those which were growing momentarily plainer in the evening light ? They looked like the serrated black jags of some crocodilian reptile's spine, as he lay all hidden but his back, guarding a golden treasure from which yellow light poured out behind him. Field glasses were brought out and levelled at the western horizon. There they were, the Rocky Mountains ! Distinct although so far — 120 miles 'tr^ ys- =iy^ 7^^ s--->r"^'^ Chief Mountain. away, clear-cleaving that far air— towered right into the clouds a row of stupendous craggy peaks. Wc had come at last within sight of them. There 193 Canadian Pictures. was the back-bone — jagged like that of the old saurian monsters — of this gigantic continent. We watched and watched them until the sun had sunk behind the fire-lit clouds, and then before it grew dark we could see that the snow came far down those awful hill-sides — indeed, as far as we could trace their heights above the intervening country. In the train the view of the mountains comes quicker on the traveller, who will agree that the siyht of the 150 miles of Alps from the Bow River Benches above Calgarry is one of the most wonderful views in the world. From this point, although the nearest peaks are still forty miles away, they seem close, and look down from heights of 12,000 feet. From the square block of the Chief Mountain near the frontier, to the peaks to the north of Morleyville, the view is uninterrupted. The snow, early in the autumn, is low upon their flanks, and the tumbled series of icy cones, broken rock battlements, sudden rifted gorges, and unsealed walls, extending right and left in an even front of white, produces an impression which can only be compared to that made by the Alps from the Lombard plains. But the colouring here is finer, for the snow glory changes to a deep purple at their base, and then in successive waves of deep blue, pink, grey, and yellow-green each shade is blended, until at your feet you see the steel blue of the impetuous stream glancing in the golden setting of the rare and autumn-smitten woods of poplar. Where, as in the journey from Edmonton, men come upon the mountain chains more suddenly, owing to the dense forests, the surprise may be greater ; but nowhere can they see such a contrast as at Calgarry of mighty expanses of snow and of green sward. BRITISH COLUMBIA. c c 11 PQ io 'I } I. is II ■i '! H> VmAV KKOM I''..S(j1IIMA1I|.T, (/■>,!«< ,1 Si;/,/, l-y ihc Ar.tr,j,iii ,pean or ler very le every ose who rs. • she can tidy and trouble, las been mistress 1 of the Heathen t of the els, and by his iabolical Zelestial re from ■\ home. When they die, their friends see that the bones are carefully freed of the flesh (which is burnt) and packed, and forwarded by the next steamer to China. Several of their merchants have thriven well at Victoria, and are respected, although they are never looked upon as citizens. The wealthier wear a black silk dress, consisting of loose tunic and trousers, with thick and upturned white-soled shoes. i The open country about Kamloops has around it the Nicola and other valleys, giving good pastur- age to cattle and sheep on the famous bunch grass. No better beef was ever sent to market than that raised on the sum- mer pasturage of the Chil- coaten plains, or indeed gene-- ally in the interior, wherever an excessive moisture has not . made the forest cover Vai.k. The Fraskr Kivi k. (/•>,.«, ,, Sift,/, by the M„r,,„h 0/ L.<,„e.) everything. The contrasts in the character of soil and climate to be met n , ^'^'^ between the Selkirk range and the Cascade range near the sea are most remarkable. There is unfortnnnrX but too little land which can be cultivated. Wherever it dols' o"ct it of excellent quality and it may occur with great dryness close to a forest distric where the rainfall is evidently heavy and the vegetation luxuriant. In the space of hve miles you may see a farm which requires irrigation, and has upon it 'l e i^!" r h M '11 1 1 200 Canadian Pictures. signs of a dry climate in the growth of artcmisia and the sage plant, and another farm on ground which is evidently an old lake bottom, and requires no arti- ficially brought moisture, but has on its ancient shore land a heavy growth of Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. For a hundred miles north of the boundary line, the height above the sea is not great enough to make the winter severe, and men say they only have four months of cold. Settlers in these valleys desired nothing but better communication, their wheat and roots were magnifi- cent ; the presence of the coyote wolf as a pest for sheep and poultry, and the lonelmess of the mountain valley, formed their only grievances. There has been for many years a good road from Kamloops Lake down the South Thompson to Lytton, where it joins the Fraser River. Thence the waggon road on one side, and the Canadian Pacific on the other side of the canyon, lead to the flats of the delta, which afford the most accessible arable land in the whole province. Along the gorges of these two streams the so-called terraces, or ancient lake levels, are most remarkable. There are usually three of these to be traced on the mountain side. The first is perhaps not more than one or two hundred feet above the stream, and frequently has a large acreage of flat, while the second has, as a rule, very little level space, and the third and highest still less. Slips occur in the mass of the lowest, and a whole field which had fine crops of potatoes on one side of the river was bodily transferred on one occasion by such a movement to the other side of the valley, of course, damming for a while the torrent, which was too strong to be long pent up, and soon forced itself a channel. The pines which in the drier country stand like sentries on the ledges, or as skirmishers scattered singly along the ridges only, come down into the Cascade gorges, and cover, in close and dense array of dark green, the lower zone of the steep hills whose summits never lose the snow. The Cascade range does certainly not yield in beauty and grandeur to any other in this country of sublime scenery. The mighty rock masses are thrown against the sky in spire, tower, ruined wall, and snowy dome in wild con- fusion; the torrents are hurled more furiously down the deep clefts ; and this range has what the others have not, in the presence of the sea, which comes twining around its forest-covered feet, repeating in the shadowed and sheltered depths each and all of the wonders arrayed in the air above. It is difficult which to admire most— the approach to British Columbia on the one side from the prairies, or that to her alpine rampart where poised above the Pacific Ocean. And what marvels of marine wealth choke the estuaries and swarm up the water courses ! The annual migration of the salmon from the ocean to the far interior is a thing which almost requires to be witnessed to be believed. It is not a movement like that of the Atlantic fish, whose progress to the spawning- beds occurs in the spring, or whenever the rain floods the stream, but it is a continuous movement of apparently various tribes of salmon, lasting from the spring until late in the autumn. There is but little pause between the various " runs." People on the, spot will tell you that there are at least seven different Salmon Fishing. 30I varieties of fish. Perhaps it will be found that five kinds can be scientifically separated. 1 he pools are so full of the salmon that the appearance of the water can only be compared to that on our English coasts when the herring fry are forced ashore and wedged together in the shallows, floating so closely that a bucket put down among them would be filled with fish. The size of the Pacific fish IS on the average smaller than that of those caught in the Canadian Atlantic rhey average from ten to fifteen lbs. Their flesh is pinker, but has not so good a flavour as that of their eastern congeners, but is much appreciated when " potted • " and the " canneries," or factories where the fish is brought to be boiled down and sealed in hermetically-fitting air-tight canisters, are a profitable source of revenue. It is the local tradition that the fish never get back to the sea, that they ascend to the inland spawning-beds, and after depositing their eggs', die. This is no doubt the case with very many, and with all those which ascend very far ; for they become exhausted with their battle against the currents, their skin is hurt, and they shrivel into blackness and emaciation, and find themselves hundreds of miles from the life-giving brine, and die in thousands. But with many a safe return to the sea is possible. In the month of October I examined a net at New Westminster, not far from the river's m6uth, and found meshed in the net, on one side salmon fresh run from the sea, and on the other side fish which had evidently been long in the river, and were on their way down. In the Thompson River, above K-^mloops Lake, we saw hundreds of the feebler fish. The gravel on the river's bed was grooved across the direction of the current by the spawning fish, which had laid their roe in the furrows. In the Columbia, in the Stickeen, and other rivers, the same enormous migration occurs. There seems no limit to the swarms which come year after year from the exhaustless sea. The best are the spring salmon. There is one ugly race called " the humpbacked," apparently a very distinct kind from the others. Of other fish there is also abundance. The herring appear in great shoals, and deposit their spawn on anything in the tidal bays. The natives put bushes in the shallows at low tide, and the herring attach clusters of eggs to them ; then the roe is taken and made into food. Another fish, called the candle-fish, or oolaken, is also very common. It is said to be so oily that a half-dried specimen will burn like a torch. All these give provisions to the Indians, who subsist almost entirely on fish. The aboriginal British Columbian is not very nice in his tastes. All fish, in whatever condition, are palatable to him. Up country, the inhabitants of the camps along the streams arc seen spearing the blackest fish at the end of the season. They split them and smoke them in strings attached to poles, and a very ample store is laid in for the year's consumption. Sometimes, as in the engraving, the fish store is kept in the branches of a fir, to be out of the way of wild animals. No one could expect daintiness from the native. He is an ugly animal. There are tribes in the interior who ride, and hunt, and these men arc well made, but the coast man is squat, clumsily made, Ml ugly D D 303 Canadian Pictures. Indian Salmon Cache'. (From the Mtirqms oj Lome's colkctiaa of i/iol\>x> .//u.) in feature, and very un- like the strapping Sioux, Cree, or Blackfoot. But he has good qualities. He is much more docile when got to work, and he often works with a will. At Fort McLeod, in Alberta, I remember the commandant telling me that he once arrived home with his wife at an hour when a good many Indians were around the house. He carried his wife's travel- ling-bag into the fort, and heard a Blackfoot exclaim in contempt, "Just look at that warrior carrying — actu- ally carrying — his own squaw's traps ! ! ! " Such labour, or any labour, was undignified in his eyes. But in working up the river in a steamer on the west of the mountains, we frequently hailed a camp and asked for the loan of men to aid in working the boat. Several men at once came off, and during the days for which they were engaged they put wood on board, hauled at the ropes when we had to get over a sandbar, and made themselves gener- ally useful with a cheer- ful good will it did one good to see. On ar th P( W( ca tei su cai fac very un- ng Sioux, oot. But qualities. )re docile vork, and s with a McLeod, emember It telling e arrived s wife at I a good s were jse. He ;'s travel- the fort, Blackfoot ontempt, at that ig — actu- -his own ' ! " Such ^ labour, d in his working I steamer of the equently nd asked " men to the boat, at once jring the hey were tut wood d at the i had to Ibar, and ;s gener- a cheer- it did ;e. On Indian Carving and Architecture. _____ 203 returning again down stream, we disembarked them, and whe^r^d^Tn^ especaliy towards the north, and their tackle is well Tade*^ A h oThke tTe letter G ,„ form ,s used with a line woven of fibre. Capital nets are Inu factured of the nettle. The carvings with which they cover their large canoes; Carvings bv British Columbian Indians. (From the CoUeclion of the Marquis or Lome.) and the skill with which they cut plates and vessels and inlay them with bone or the nch mother of-pearl of the ^.&/,V or Venus' ear shell rlmtad one of the Polynes,ans and not of the red men of the East. Their hous;s are buHt of heavy ca^ed Qren"ch?rl':.r'""' °" =1 ""."" ^^ '" ^°-='- '" '"= ^^P °f '''-^s cailed yueen Charlottes, near the shore which belongs to the old Russian tern ory recently purchased by the Americans, the villages are of v^r^ substan ,al shape, and in front of almost every dwelling if a coLsal post "Is r'l '"'• '° ^T ""'' "■""^^'^ representations of anima faS menl faces. It ,s cunous that many of these carvings exhibit the forms of creatures D D 2 204 Canadian Pictures. i I I $1 unknown to North America. For instance, the hideous head and open jaws of the crocodile are frequently represented. These pillrrs have a heraldic character, inasmuch as they relate in sculptured hieroglyphic the descent of the families of the Hydahs, as these islanders are named. Their race is said to be of finer mould than their brothers of the south. Besides fish they catch the valuable sea-otter, an animal twice as large as the British otter, and worth lOO dollars apiece at the least. The languages spoken are various. The conformation of the country must have always tended to separate the tribes, each residing in its own valley, but a mixed jargon called Chinook is much used and very generally understood. People yet manage a conversation well enough by prefixing " Hy — u," which means , " much," or " very," to the English word for an object ; and if the subject-matter of conversation be sentimental, the word " tum-tum," which Indian liKincK. (/'><•/« tlw Mafiitih of Lonic*s toliei/iim 0/ fflotogra/'hs.) Stands for every sentiment of heart or mind, can always be relied on for effect. Demands from these Indians for schools and instruction were constantly preferred in 1882. The colony when under Crown government wisely encouraged the natives to become citizens, instead of treating them as wards of the State, a practice still pursued by Canada, whether the men be savages, or civilised for several generations. Who would have thought that one of the latest inventions of civil engineer- ing is an old Chinook idea ? We have seen that the " aesthete's " dado in house decoration is the ancient adornment of a Blackfoot's lodge ; but ought not our respect fo/ the Pacific slope aboriginal to increase when we find that he 1 jaws of :haracter, ^ families i of finer valuable )0 dollars Illation of ling in its generally WX phohgraphs.) 2cl on for constantly ncouraged the State, r civilised engineer- " dado in but ought id that he Indian Provision for the Deao. 205 had suspension bridges long before such viaducts were known in Europe ? The illustration of such a bridge is taken from a photograph, and therefore may be trusted. In this case the supports on each side of the chasm to be crossed are big firs, and from these depends the rest of the structure. As with all the North American peoples, careful provision was made for the welfare of the spirits of the departed. A curious set of likenesses of the dead are put up over the graves, and the weapons, utensils, and clothes which may be of use to them in the next world are carefully placed near them, but are not usually buried with the corpse. Irreverent travellers in recent years were so much addicted to stealing any good pots and pans or guns so placed for the benefit of the departed, that it has now become the custom to bore a hole in such metal vessels, and to place them in this state on a pole. For an immortal, a pot with a hole through it, or a gun with the lock removed, is apparently supposed to be as good as new. The British Columbian Indians are to be seen labouring at the saw-mills as well as at other industries, and are to be hired at a cheaper rate than the whites or Chinese, but are not trustworthy in fulfilling their bargains, being apt to go off whenever it suits them. The task of cutting down some of the Douglas fir to be seen on the coast is certainly sufficient to employ a good axeman for some time. I saw one tree over 300 feet in height, and ten feet six inches in diameter, and am informed that there are single specimens of an even greater size. All around this giant at Burrard's Inlet were others nearly as large. There is no finer woodland scene than a glade of such mighty timber. Mixed, as the Douglas fir is, with the gigantic cedar and some other kinds, there is no monotony in the solemn groves which soar upward on each side of the road, as it winds below among the wondrous stems and amid thickets of evergreen shrubs. The Douglas and Thuya gigantea require shelter ; but as their native climate is like that of England, these trees will probably be most profitable for planting, the first grow- ing faster than larch, attaining a far greater size, and giving superior timber. Among the animals which haunt these woods is a fine puma. The settlers aver that where they are common the wolves disappear. This so-called Californian lion is a powerful beast, but it is not dangerous unless wounded and hard pressed. By far the most dangerous of all the denizens of the wilds, namely the grizzly and tawny bears, are found only too frequently in the interior. The grizzly is an immense bear, and a very tartar when caught, wounded, or angry ; but all accounts agree that the tawny bear, often found with him, is the worst. He is one of the very few of earth's creatures which will wantonly attack man. He is thinner and uglier and hungrier-looking than the grizzly, and more savage. The sportsman need not lack occupation, for if not inclined to go after these monsters, he can find plenty of exciting work among the crags and glens, where in the rocky solitudes he may also pursue the big horn, or mountain sheep, and the wild white goat. The sheep often come down to the valleys, and are more easily reached than are the goats. Both are well worth n 2o6 Canadian Pictukks. the labour of stalking thcin. The sheep is coiourecl like a deer, and has a coat like a deer s. with white rump and nose, and strong, curving, gr(>at rani's horns The goat is pure white, and on the saddle of the hack has a woolly Ikvce which changes to hair on the Hanks. To hunt these, a fur bag or good blankets'should be earned with the hunting party, as the nights on the hills are very cold, and fre- (luent campings out at high latitudes are necessary. It is fitting that we should keep to the last a notice of Vancouver's Island if it be fitting to reserve for I -3- -"'^Mp^'' Indian Gravks. (/Vow ///,• Afntyuis , i 208 Canadian Pictukes. are not of the carboniferous era, but of the cretaceous period in geology, the coal is as good as man can desire. In the San Francisco market it obtains the highest price, and competes more than successfully with the imports from Australia. It is a strange sight to see a mining community, and the great black heaps of refuse from the shafts, in the midst of the primeval woods. Most of the miners are Scots, and one of the best-danced reels I have ever witnessed was joined in by all present at a ball given here. The rail from this place to Victoria traverses country only partially cleared, but which will support many people, and being well situated, both as regards climate and the ease with which its products can be taken by rail or ship to market, will be much sought after. The capital itself has wide streets, and comfort- able, although unpretentious buildings, good shops under wooden arcades, some prosperous factories, notably for cigars, soap, furniture, and matches, plenty of churches, a pleasant society, and mixed white population of Europeans, Canadians, and Americans, with a larger number of Indians and Chinese. It will be the favourite abode of the wealthy who desire to pass the winter in a mild climate, where daisies, roses, and lauristinus may be seen in flower at Christmas. The rich marine life of the Pacific gives endless matter of interest to the naturalist, and for the yachtsman and sportsman the country is perfect. Close to Victoria lies the quiet little harbour of Esquimalt, the winter station for vessels of our Pacific squadron. There is a fine dry dock hidden away in a branch inlet, and a dockyard well provided with spare stores. No- where are the officers and men of Her Majesty's Navy happier than here, for the hospitality of the Victorians knows no bounds. Within five minutes' journey from the anchorage in a steam launch, lies a strip of shore with a salt water lagoon behind it, where excellent duck shooting may be enjoyed every evening, and there are other places like it only a little further away. The engraving at the head of this chapter is from a sketch of the hills on the American coast, and shows the waters the sportsman watches from the shore as he waits for the landward-flying ducks. It is a pity that the Navy does not use the fine " sticks ' to be procured in British Columbia. Although " the masts of some tall admiral " are now of iron, there is plenty of use in smaller vessels for the wonderful wood of this northern colony of ours. Nanaimo and Esquimalt might be made strong places, and Nanaimo especially is easily defensible, and of much value as a coaling station. The capital itself is built along the shores of a secure but small harbour, from the mouth of which one sees across the straits, named after Juan de Fuca (here sixteen miles wide), the lofty Olympian range in Washington Territory. These have very fine outlines. Towards the east they sink to lower levels, as they near the great inlet of Puget Sound, on whose further side again, yet more to the left, can be descried above the sea the needle-like summits of some of the Southern Cascade chain ; while nearer and soaring above all across the island-studded gulf, is the magnificent white cone of Mount Baker, nearly 11,000 feet in height. These peaks have evidently 1 WaI'ITI. ao9 been parts of old volcanoes, but they have slept long, and their brethren far away to the south in the same earth-spanning di-n-they of the Cordilleras —are the only active fire-hills of the western world. Hut the earth's agonies of those old days are seen in the contorted strata, in the masses of granite upheaved here and there, m the lava flows, and the strange collection of measures on the edges of many rock basins, where you will see the newest and the oldest Ivinir in torn patchwork side by side. In those ranges of Washington Territory we are told that there are herds of the great red deer — the wapiti — and that three or four hundred may be seen on theirtravels in autumn from one feeding-ground to another. In the stores of Victoria splendid heads may be bought, but it is difficult to procure any set of which the left and right antlers exactly match. The fur depots are well worth a visit, for there may be seen not only the furs of bear, wolf, sea-otter, and silver fox, but those also of the strange seals of Alaska. Where the northern coast trends away to the westward are a remarkable series of islands, the remains of what must have been a continuous chain of land binding America to Asia. Thick fogs prevail in these seas, and under their canopy of cloud is the very climate best loved by the Phocidee~?i climate sunless and cool. Here they are found in countless thousands on the land near the sea. " In 1810 to 1820," E E Wai'iti Horns. (Fnni the cMi-ction of tht Ular^uU o/ I.criu:) 310 Canadian I'ictukes. m ! il says Sir George Simpson, who was for so long a time head of the Hudson's Hay Company, " there was a most wasteful destruction of this seal, when young and old, male and female, were indiscriminately knocked on the head. This im- prudence, as any one might have expected, proved detrimental in two ways. The race was almost extirpated, and the market was glutted to such a degree — at the rate for some time of 200,000 skins per year — that the prices did not even pay the expense of carriage. The Russians adopted the plan of killing only a limited number of such males as had attained their full growth, a plan peculiarly applicable to the fur seal, inasmuch as its habits render the system of husbanding the stock as easy and certain as that of destroying it. In the month of May, with something like the regularity of an almanack, the fur seals make their ap- pearance at the island of St. Paul, one of the Aleutian group. Each old male brings a herd of young females under his protection, varying in number according to his size and strength. The weaker brethren are obliged to content themselves with half-a-dozen wives, while some of the sturdier and fiercer fellows preside over harems that are 200 strong. From the date of their arrival in May to that of their departure in October, the whole of them are principally ashore on the beach. The females go down to the sea once or twice a day, while the male, morning, noon, and night, watches his charge with the utmost jealousy, post- poning even the pleasures of eating, drinking, and sleeping to the duty of keeping his favourites together. If any young gallant ventures by stealth among any senior chief's bevy of beauties, he generally atones for his impu- dence with his life, being torn to pieces by the old fellow ; and such of the fair ones as may have given the intruder any encouragement are pretty sure to catch it in the shape of some secondary punishment. The females devote most of the time of their sojurn to the rearing of their young. At last the whole band departs, no one knows whither. The mode of capture is this : at the proper time the whole are driven like a Hock of sheep to the establishment, which is a mile distant from the sea, and there the males of four years, with the exception of the few that are left to keep up the breed, are separated from the rest and killed. In the days of promiscuous massacre, such of the mothers as had lost their pups would ever and anon return to the establishment, absolutely harrowing up the sympathies of the wives and daughters of the hunters, accustomed as they were to such scenes, with their doleful lamentations. The fur seal attains the age of fifteen or twenty years, and not more." The reason that all the skins are sold in London is that labour is too expensive on this coast to make the dressing of them profitable. Therefore nine-tenths of the seals annually taken are sent to England, and are distributed thence. Mr. Elliott has lately furnished to the United States Government a very interesting account of the capture of these seals, and the cut, as well as the information given here, is given on his excellent authority. He estimates that there were in 1874 over 3,000,000 of seals on St. Paul's Island alone. Thev The Seal. ail son's Hay oun^ and This im- wo ways, degree — not even ng only a peculiarly isbanding of May, their ap- old male according lemselves s preside ay to that ire on the the male, isy, post- duty of th among lis impu- and such iragement mt. The ir young. )f capture ip to the ^s of four breed, are acre, such •n to the ives and A^ith their nty years, ur is too Therefore istributed jrnment a IS well as estimates le. Thev nbu 6 to V? H ' 7""^7'-' " T^he full grown male is," say., Mr. f^ll'ott, 6i to 7i feet long, and we.ghs 400 lbs. The .)ld bulls will nuiintain their hosen pos.t.on on the shore among the countless herds. A constantly s stained g t between new-comers and the first arrivals goes on incessantly' A well imderstood pnnc.ple seems to exist among them, that each shall remain on a pec.al spot, usually about eight feet square, provided that at the start and from the first commg untd the advent of the females, he is strong enough to ho Id th^ ground aga.nst all comers, as the crowding of the fresh arrLls often cause he removal of those who though equally able-bodied at first, have become wllby constant fightu^g. They are finally driven by fresher animals higher up n the Ten!!' T r'"'"" "^ •'^'^°^^"^^'''- '^'^"y °^ 'he bulls exhibit wonderful s rcngth and desperate courage. I remarked one veteran who was the first to iTJZ'u r ^^"^^'" "' '""^' ^°"y °'- fifty ^'^^P^'-^te battles, and fought off h,s assailants every time, and when the fighting .season was o^er I saw h.m st.Il there, covered with scars and frightfully gashed, raw, festering w L ^ /' nt", "^"^ T^"""^ ""'- ^"' '"'■^""^ •' '^••^^^'y «v«'' his harem, who were all huddled together around him. «,.. J' ^ u ^°"';? '^'''' " ^'■°'" 'he moment of his birth until he is a month or six weeks old unable to sw.m. If he is seized by the nape of the neck and pitched out a rod mto the water from shore his bullet-like head will drop instantly below the surface, and his attenuated posterior extremities flap impo- tcntly on ,t ; suffocation .s a question of only a few minutes-the stupid liStle creature not know,:.g how to raise his immersed head. After the age of a month to .X weeks the.r mstmct drives them down to the margin of the surf, where the ebb and flow of the waves covers and uncovers the rocky beaches. They first smell and then touch the moist pools, and flounder in the upper wash of the surt. After this begmnmg, they make slow and clumsy progress in learning the knack of swimmmg. For a week or two they thrash the water as little dogs do with their fore feet, making no attempt whatever to use the hinder ones Look at that pup launched for the first time beyond his depth, see how he struggles-h.s mouth wide open and eyes staring. He turns to the beach, the reccdmg swell which had taken him out returns and leaves him high and dry t^or a few minutes he seems so weary that he weakly crawls up out beyond the swift-returning wash, and coils himself up for a recuperative nap. He deeps perhaps half an hour, then awakes ' as light as a dollar,' and to his swimming happ"ners^°'' ''^'""' ' ^"''^'^ swimming, the pup fairly revels in his new "The fur seals after leaving the islands in the autumn and early winter do not visit land again until their return in the spring or early summer to the same rookery grounds. They leave the islands in independent squads ; apparently all turn by common consent towards the south, disappearing towards the horizon. and are soon lost in the expanse, where they spread themselves over the entire E E 2 212 Canadian Pictures. North Pacific as far south as the 48th and even 47th parallels of N. latitude. Over the immense area between Oregon and Japan doubtless many extensive submarine fishing shoals and banks are known to them ; at least, it is definitely understood that Behring's Sea does not contain them long when they depart from the breeding-places. While it is remembered that they sleep soundly and with the greatest comfort on the surface of the water, and that even when on land in summer they frequently put off from the beaches to take a bath and a quiet snooze just beyond the surf, we can readily agree that it is no inconvenience whatever when their coats have been renewed to stay the balance of the time in their most congenial element, the deep. " The seals are driven slowly to the slaughter. Men get between them and the water, and the poor beasts turn, hop and scramble up over the land. The natives then leisurely walk in the flank and rear of the drove thus secured, directing and driving it to the killing grounds. An old bull seal, fat and unwieldy, cannot travel with the younger ones, though it can go as fast as a man can run for a 100 yards, but then fails utterly, and falls to the ground entirely exhausted, hot, and gasping for breath." In taking such a rapid review as that we have now completed of the provinces of the Dominion, it is felt how little of this magnificent country we have even glanced at. Any such account must be a mere skeleton outline, to be filled in by local books, giving flesh and blood to the meagre knowledge any rapid survey can afford. In each part there is abundant scope for fresh examination, for the discovery of fresh resources, and for the certainty that they will give large populations an assured support and comfortable home. Yet we have taken a view of each, and have spoken at some length on their different characteristics. They afford a great variety of domicile, and their rival Concluding Summary. 213 claims to attention arc being liberally examined and appreciated. Together they form a united country, for there is not any serious cause for discontent and quarrel among any of the members of this great family. They have a population of about five millions, and soon will possess a far greater number— indeed, it has been calculated that in all probability within the" next hundred years they will have more people than we have in these islands to-day. They are thoroughly devoted to the connection which exists between them and the mother country a parent land which has allowed to its children the utmost liberty. If it had not been so, they would long ago have cast off the allegiance of which they are now proud, and which is so useful to them, and will in the future be of such vaiue to ourselves. It is our duty to cherish and to foster to the utmost those feelinrise whenever he ei! poht,ca excitement ,n Ireland. Several of the Dominion's former statesmen thev put before L '"^ "'"^'^^^ any proposition which they put before the Canadian Parliament as likely to benefit their brethren in tZ °Gen::ir'.riero^"i.rnr-^^7'^''^''*.^^"''°-' --= ^"'-"^ will suit anoth : Uhough nrbted S:rofTh """'" "". f" ""^ ^°™'^^ present vvidelydi,fere„tiaturetrsi^rc;r:ata,:.rs:urer^™ the case as between Canada and the old countries. Th. r / especially exnariQP of lor.^.- u "^'^ oia countries. 1 he first possesses a vast expanse of lands whose geographical interests may be alike but which w^. doms have, on the other hand, a very small area of country. .Itl geogl^hicS powers of self-government, ventures to express a hoi .W v '^ '"'' ^""'""^ '° ""''' '''■°^'"" considerable exi>r«»ccl desire of ..o man/of Her Al.njei's^u^eclsf&c "''"' ''"'' "'''"" '"'^ ^' ^"""^ °^ °'"''"g "'^ 1 !• ai8 Appendix. interests must of necessity be identical, and they have a population which already swarms upon almost every tract where man can live in comfort. It is these facts which disclose the vast difference between the two countries. It is of the greatest importance to remember that the Central Government of both the United States and the Dominion were created by the several separate colonies, which agreed to relegate certain powers only to the Federal Chambers. The Central Government of Great Britain and Ireland, on the contrary, is the out- come of centuries of successful effort to unite in London the Imperial Legislature. It was but the other day that the Unif.' '■ 'tcK fought for stronger Federal powers ; it was after the successful issUw, ■> :. war, and the strengthening of the Federal Government at Washington, ti; Canada « legislation for the Union, provided that education should be dealt with by each Province ; but the rights existent at the time of Union pe^tainine to mmorihes were guarded, and it was provided that Federal interference might be had should new legislation threaten these rights In New Brunswick, after the Union had been some years in force, the Roman Catholics complained of a Provmcal law which denied them public fund, for separate schools. The appeal provided for at the Union to the Ottawa Legish-iture was urged, and the Dominion House of Commons were inclined to interfere. The Ministry were however, agamst this, and on the question being referred to the British Privy Counci!, it wa« decided that the Province should arrange for .tself .ts own difficulties, and that warrant for interference did not exist. This decision, therTre trends to this effect: "give certain limited powers to limited areas, and let the storm, if it arise, be confined to Lhal F F 2 220 ArPKNDIX. Council, — not to mention tiie Supreme Court of Canada ; and either of these may be used to fall back on as an anticns ciiruc, whose decision can settle any dispute. So that there is little on which that guarantee of order among the people beneath one Hag — namely, " the common sense of most" — can be severely tried. We see, therefore, that our communities in this Greater Britain have fined down to a minimum their demands for Home Rule in the separate Provinces, and practically retain only those questions for local decision of which the Central Parliament is glad to be rid, and of which it may be profitably relieved. No question can be raised which shall unite a race, section, or geographical part of the country, as a unit against the Central Government. This is an important lesson, and one not lightly to be passed over. Even in the subjects left to be dealt with by the Local Governments, if internal Provincial trouble came, the whole Commonwealth might think it necessary to interfere, and in any such event the troops to keep order would be Federal, for there are no others. In New Brunswick there was once a serious conflict on the subject of education ; but the affair was settled without the intervention in any form of Federal agency. No Local Government has proposed to change its Provincial laws relating to devolution or tenure of property ; but this could be done by Provincial enactment. VVe must go back to the past and to an era before Confederation for any great change in agrarian conditions. There is no instance in the history of the United Province ; but there was a case of the kind when Ontario and Quebec were united under the appellation of Upper and Lower Canada, and a single Legislature endeavoured to meet the wants of both, in those days the old seignorial tenure, derived from pre-revolutionary France, existed in Lower Canada, and troubles arose. An enactment was passed by the Parliament in which Ontario was represented along with Quebec, and the principle adopted was practically one of compensation for abrogated privileges. The rights of superiority were in the main abolished by the grant of a fee simple to the superior over a proportion of the lands formerly held in feu, while the vassals were freed from their onerous dues, and their vassal tenures practically converted into a tenancy at a statutory rental which could at any time be converted, by capitalizing such rental, into a tenure in fee simple. Unlike the process adopted in the last Irish Land Act, whereby two men are obliged to have partnership in one property, the Seignorial Tenure Act loosed the two men who had been tied together as vassal and superior, and gave each a definite proprietorship. Some feudal dues were retained for the superior, but these were of a certain kind, and did not include casual or accidental payment. Quebec is the only Province in Canada, and, indeed, the only State on the American Continent, in which a race and language different from the Anglo-Saxon survive. The P>ench Canadian rules by his majority in the local Chambers, and he takes care that the population shall remain as far as possible French Canadian, and that in any Al'I'F,Nt)fX. aai Icderal question that vote shall have its separate value. The old treaties gave hem a nght to an autonomy which has not only never been disputed, but which has become the model for ec,ual rights given to other States, whose area, as they lhat"of Quiz '" ^'°^*"'""""' '''" ^'■"^^'^'y ^^ '""^'^ '»'' '■^^r as possible equal to . J*"? /'•■''"''' ^'^'"'■•f-^'^ '•ace. therefore, occupies a very important place in he Confederation ; yet from the.r position they cannot demand too much! so that he danger of a separate Commonwealth is avoided. They are thorougidy loyal to Canada: for that great Anglo-Saxonizing amalgamation n,ill. the United States, would soon efface their language, should their fortune be cast with the States. I he.r loyalty to the Empire is born both of inclination and of the knowledge that Canada could not stand alone, but would be annexed to the United States on the first pretext, were there not behind her the majestic form of a United hmp.re^ Because no hand has ever sought to touch their rights, they are loyal to the framework of the Power which gives them these and ensures them a place which makes them a moving force in larger politics. Their position Ks never likely to be menaced ; for. unlike the population of old France their people increase in an astounding ratio. But they must in the future be content, as they are now content, with the privileges they possess. They cannot get heir I rovince. or another carved afresh, to suit the French-speaking population. Suppose an improbable case-namely, that the English-speakinL^ people obtained a m.yority in the west part of the Province. No Canadian would propose to re-adjust the Province so as to erect a French-speakinelort on nuo a separate entity. Each I-^ederal Government would desire tc avoid Cing any single homogeneous State made inconveniently strong for the Cen Tal .overnment. or else any disallowance of legislation, however u/^ru vires it S be. could be resisted. Divide ei impcra must be the true Federal motto, as was the motto of ancient governments of other forms We. therefore, see that Canadian provincial right means only the right to make laws on purely domestic matters ; such, namely, as are mainly coir sed ..J educational and c.v. right legislation ; and any demands arising from ethnic differences have proved capable of treatment, because the case has^een treated I rovincally. the tempest being thus confined to the teapot. The troul le tT not affected the country at large, but a Province only It may be urt e remarked that the limits of the Provinces and the StaL into wL'ch An e ca and Canada have been divided have been almost always accidental or a^ ficll and hat the boundaries are often represented by a mere imaginary 1 ne of longitude or atitude The abolition of the S.gnorial Tenure iL been mentioned as having been the work, not of a Provincial Government, but of the Government of the United Provinces of Upper and of Lower Canada, previous to the great Confederation movement of 1867. As the Act affected riizhts of property sanctioned and recognized by Crown Treaties, it is probable tl^a^ no i>rov,nc,al Government would, even nowadays, have been allowed exclusively o 23: Ai'i'KNnix. deal with them. It may be aiklcd that, in the case of tht? abolition of the proprietorships over the ^^reat estates in Prince Eaward Island, legislation took place before the Canadian Union came into existence, anil the case had to be dealt with by the advisers of the Crown in England. There is but little to be learned from the Prince Edward Island enactment. Compensation was given to the proprietors, but it was doubtful whether they had a right to anything, as the provisions of the charters by which the lands were held had exacted conditions vvhich had been rarely fulfilled. It will, therefore, be seen that before Provincial Government obtained its present form in Quebec and in Prince Edward Island, all agrarian trouble had been settled by a Parliament representing higher powers than those of the Province only ; that compensation had been given for rights abolished ; and that on confederation each member of the Union continued its autonomous powers with a blank sheet, as far as any ugly race or land question was concerned. Thus experience on the American Continent shows that, while local matters may safely be left to Provincial Assemblies, it is all important that no section of a country shall be organized in such strength as to be able to formulate a policy leading to conflict with the rest of the people under the same flag. If there be ethnic or religious dififer^nces, the troubles arising from them should be dealt \v\t\} by the Central Government, whose best policy is, after clearing the ground, to divide it under several local authorities and give to them a definite and limited power. Nature's Monumicnt, Canadian Pacific Coast. INDEX. A'lRicuLTURE in Ontirin, 84; at Lake St. lotin, in ; in the North-Weit, I40 ; at Edmuiit.m, 179, l8i : at Hell Karm, 183 Altjerla, 187 Algoma, 131 Annapolis, 44 Apples, 43 Ashiiapmouchouan, the, 11 j Assiniboine, Ihc, 148 Athabasca, iP,i Bass, black, 89 Hear-traps, 54 Hears, 205 Heaver, 90 Hell Farm, 183 Klackfeet IiKliaus, 16a Urnndon, 140 lirock. General, 65 BiilTalo, the, 189 Huttcrflies, 54 Campobei.lo, 49 Canadian Ideas, 22 Canadian Pacific Railway, 148 Carlelon, 176 Cariboo mines, 196 Cascade range, the, 200 CaKcapedia, the, 52 Cnssian mines, 196 Cathcart, Lady, emigrants sent out by, 145 Chaleur, Hay of, 48 Champlain defeats the Indians, 109 ( harlotte Town, 56 C!hateaugay, battle at, 11 1 Chinese in Columbia, 198 Chinese miners, 198 Chinook jargon, 204 Climate of Canada, 31 Coal, 187 Cod, 56 Columbia River, the, 196 Confederation of 1867, 5 Copper mines, 134 Dkad, Indian mode of disposing of the, 170; provision for the, 205 Dominion Government, the, 17 I )ouglas fir, 205 Ducks, 89 Dunsmuir, Mr., discovers coal, 20J Dunegan, 180 Kdmonton, 179 Edwards, Mr. Peacock, on emi|{ration, 14J Klgin, Lord, 120 I'.migration, hints on, 22, 35, 13 Usquimault, 208 I'ertiie llelr, the, 8 Kires in Canr»ln, 121 I'lies, 53 Mour, Canadian, 146 i'"lowers, 32, 55 Kort Pitt, "177 Kraser River, the, 196 Krcderii'klon, 48 Krencii and iMiglith com.nuiiiiics, 6 French in Quebec, lOO Fruits, 32, 43 Fuel, 33 Fundy Hay of, 42 (Jeorgian Hay, 13I tioat, wild, 205 Gold-mining, 196 Government, form of, 4 Government of (Quebec, 1 10 Grand Falls, the, 48 Grizzly, the, 205 Halipax, 42 Hamilton, 95 Herring, 201 Highlanders in Canada, 47 llorse-stcaling, 156 Ice-boat sailing, 76 Ice harvest, I2( Indian biby, i68 Indian bridj^e, 204 Indian camp, 158 Imlian carvings, 202 Indian cruelties, 167 Indian lodges, 169 Indian manners, 162, 169 In-lian medicii\es, 165 Indian mode of disposing of the dead, 170; provision for the deaH, 205 Iroquois, the, ig6 JOOGINS, the, 47 Kaministiqitia, the, 135 Kamloops, 196 Keewaytin, 135 Kingston, 73 Lahrador, 61 Lachine rapids, the, 76 334 Index. (J l.ncro««e, iij I.akc of the U'iukIs, i 55 Lttiul, system nf lnyinj; i.\il, 184 License Inw, the, 155 I.ix'illiouMes, 117 Little SaskBtchewnn, the. 1.(11 l.obj|er», 57 London, 04 l.onp Point, sliijcilinj; a*, 89 Loiiishiir({, 4 J LoynlistK, llic, i)6 Mackk.rel, 56 Mac I, fan, llishop, 176 Afanltoba, Lake, 13S Manitoba I'niversily, 1 {7 Manitoulin Island, 131 ' Matiiinie provljices, tlie, >> Mc(!ill Univer^ity, 120 Mennonilos, the, 1^8 Micliipicolen Island, ijj Milicitcs, legend of, 51 Milton, Lord, traveln of, 176 Miramichi, citastrophe ;it, 51 Missionaries in Canada, 81 Mistassini, the, 113 Montagnais, the, 117 Montreal, 118; buildings of, 119; McCill University, 120 J carnival at, 121 ; ice harvest, 121; Victoria Tubular Hridge, 124 Mosquito, the, 178 Mount Baker, 208 Murray, General, defeat of, 105 Musk rat, 142 Mussel mud, 56 Nanaimo, S07 Nepigon Straits, 133 New Hruiswick, description of, 12 Newfoundland, descrijition of, 57; restrictions in, (S; the French shore, 58 ; the capital, 59 Niagara, 65 Nipissin? Lake, 130 North- West mounted police, n;4 Nova Scotia, description of, 9 On. in Ontario, 84 Ojibbeways, 132 Ontario, description of, 13 Oroniateka, 170 Ottawa, 69; llou.'cs of rarliaincnl, 71; saw mills, 7' Ouaniche, 89 Oysters, 57 Pacific Railway, Canadian, 148 T'eace River, the, 181 Pelicans, 178 Peribonca, the, 1 13 Pictou, 43 Porpoise, white, 1 16 Portage la Prairie, 140 Prairie flowers, 178 Prince Albert, 176 Prince Edward's Island, dcsciiption of, 12, 55 Prohibitory liquor law, 154 Puma, the, 205 Quebec, Government of, 13 Quebec, city of, 99 ; population of, ico ; capture of, 105 Quecnstown heights, battle of, 65 59 KAit.wAv construction, r«pid, 141; Ktnids of St. Mury, 130 Ked River carl, 136 Rcli^ioui census, 125 Resligiiuche, the, 51 Richelieu River, 113 Rideau Canal, 73 Kye'» Miss, Iloiries, 79 Sauienav, the, 1 16 St. Francis, Lake, 130 St. Jerome, first tcttfemeiit nl, \\i St. , ohn, N.H., 48 St. ^ihn's, Newfoundland, St. , ohn. Lake, 112 St. Lawrence, the, 130 St. Thomas, 94 Salaberry, Colonel de. It J .Salmon, Atlantic, 51 Salmon, Pacific, 200 Salmon cache, Indian, 202 Saskatchewan, the, 175 .S.Tult Ste, Marie, 133 Schools in Canada, 66 Seals, 209 Selkirk, 137 Selkirk range, the, 199 Settlement of Canada, 4 Settler, advice to the, 186 Sheep, wild, 205 Shipbuilding in Nova Scotia, 47 Silver Lsland, 134 Silver mining, 134 Sitting Hull, victory of, 158 Sioux Indians, 158 Smoky River, the, 181 Snow geese, 178 South Thompson, the, 201 Sturgeon, 88 Sun dance, the, 165 Superior, Lake, 130 Sussex, Vale of, 4S Tayi.ok, Mr,, mioted, 182 Thousand I.slands, the, 75 Tobogganin?, loi Toronto, 78; sports at, 78; Miss Rye's Homes, 79; meteorological office, 83 ; fair, 83 Townships, division of land into, 184 Travoys, 169 Trinity, Bay of, 60 Turkey, wild, 89 Ursuunes, convent of, Quebec, 105 Vancouver's Wand, climate of, 34; description (jI, 200 Victoria, 208 Victoria Tubular Bridge, 124 Wapiti deer, 209 Welland Canal, 130 Whittier, poem of, 60 Wild fowl, 89 Winnipeg, 136 Wolfe, victory of, 104 \\'oodcock, 89 VS'oods, solitude of, 49 n.LUSTRATnn books of travel. 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