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M rirn — n u i i ijt mw" -ar vo: Ni ,itv**««K K-.1 f -«iiM*«esrf?S / VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD; •BUT MORE PARTICULARLY TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA: PERFORMED IN 1785, I786, I787. AND I788, I N THE KING GEORGE AND ^'E EN CHARLOTTE. CAPTAINS PORTLOCK: and DIXON. DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart. ^ " v« By CAPTAIN GEORGE DIXON. THE SECOND EDITION. LONDON: PUBLISHED BY GEO. GOULDING, HAYDN'S HEAD, NO. 6, J.^MI^STREET, COVENT GARDEN. ,789. "* ..J*.. L ^54 T O Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart. PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY S 11^, j^ MIDST the doubt and apprehenjhn which natu- rally attend an author on fuhmittlng his publica- tions to the worlds 1 have the pleafure of reJieBing^ that by your permijfion I prefix to the following ffork the name of a Perfon eminently dijlinguified in the literary ivorldf and zvho, not fatisfied with theoretical know- ledge, has traverfed the globe in purfuit of ufeful fcience. This permijfion, Sir, mujl flamp a value on the Work, and makes me lefs apprehenfive for its fuccefs. 1 beg 51 VI D EDICATION. I beg leave to prefent my mojl grateful achowledg- ments for this public teflimony of your favour ; and am. With great refpeB, SIR, Tour mofl obedient Humble Servant, London, 1 Jan. 1789. \ George Dixon. "^JS^"^' INTRODUCTI ON. am of the enterprizing Adventurer; and thoLh Jen rally patron,zed by the reigning Powers, where del de SliZfTdd''"' ^ '!■'■■" ^''^^ ''°'>'' -'^ ^ ^— ^^ ^imoition oi adding: to the flrenof-l. , ^ .„ , ^ inength and extent of terri wealth, or, perhaps the fame of making diico^-eries on the other, appear to have been the only' bjeas b vi;w There cannot be a greater proof of the truth of tim pofifon, than the uniform behaviour of the Sp Lrl 1 01 tuen annals, as //;;/, can ne^'cr obliterate. To VIM INTRODUCTION. To the honour of the Britip Nation be it fald, their condu£t has uniformly been the reverfe : whatever un- known tra£ls of land they have explored ; wherever they found inhabitants, their attention and humanity towards them have uniformly been fuch, as to gain their affetlioriy and conciliate their ejleem, inftead of exciting their refent- mcnt, or incurring their hatred. Indeed, if we regard adventurers from our own Coun- try in a commercial point of view, even fo lately as the latter part of the lait, or beginning of the prefent cen- tury, we lliall find the generality of them little better than free-hooters ; but on the other hand, were we to. take a retrofpedive view of the feveral voyages made immediately under the patronage of Government, durino- the fpace of the laft fifty years, we fliall not only find them fet on foot for the benefit of mankind in general, but that their endeavours to improve Navigation, and the different Sciences conneaed therewith, have been attend- ed with the moll brilliant fuccefs ; and it is not eafy to fay, whether that zeal for the general good which firfl projeaed thefe voyages, or the conftant wifh to have the refult of them made univerfally puWic, reflets the grcatcft luflre on tlieir royal and munificent patrons. Witl lulls. 'Ksrs- 1^^ I N T R O D U C T I O N. Without entering into a particular enumeration of tliefe Voyages here, which would be lliperfluous, let It fufllce to fay, that during the late Captain Cook's lali Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, befides every fclentlfic advantage which might be derived from it, a new and inexhaulHble mine of wealth was laid open to future Navigators, by trading for furs of the moli: valuable kind, on the North Weft Coaft of America. IK This difcovery, though obvloufly a fource from whence immenfe riches might be expeded, and communicated, no doubt, to numbers in the year 1780, was not imme- diately attended to. The profecution of any effeaual plan to carry on this novel undertaking, required not only patience and perfeverance, but a degree of fpirit and en- terprlzc which does not often fall to the lot of individuals : however, in the Spring of 1785, a fet of Gentlemen pro- cured a Charter from the South Sea Company, (to whom the exclunve privilege of trading in the Northern Pacific Ocean belongs) for the fole right of carrying on this traffic to its utmoft extent ; to facilitate which, two vefiels were lir.mediately purchafed, and fitted out with all expedition, m order to proceed on a Voyage to the North Weft Coaft of America, an account of which is the fubjea of the fol- lowing Oicets. So INTRODUCTION. So laudable a def.re of embarking In tins new cbannel of commerce, naturally engaged the attention of the world i„ general, and the undertaking was approved of, and en- couraged by Gentlemen whofe names alone ^vere effi- cient to bring the Voyage intopublienot.ee. The Rrg^^t Honourable Lord Mulgrave, Sir Jofeph Banks and Mr. Rofe, lronoured.us with a vlCt on board; and with that de- gree of goodnefs which ever diftinguiihes their eharaaers, fignified their approbation of the plan, and beft wiil.es for its fuccefs. Thefe very flattering encouragements were additional inducements for the Owners to profecute d.e undertaking with vigour ; and nothing was left unattempted, that could poffibly be thought of, to render it fuccefsful Whatever furs might be procured in our traffic on the American Coatt,were to be difpofed of in China, fubjea to the im- mediate controul of the Eaft India Company s Supercar- goes, and in confequence of this confignment, both veffels were to be freighted home on the Company s account. But pecuniary emolument did not altogether engroft the attention of the Owners on this occaf.on ; lor in acldi- tion to the provifions ufually allowed in Merchants fei- vice, (and of which the greateft care was taken to proctn. INTRODUCTION. the very hci\ of every kind) a plentiful ftock of all the various antlfcorbutics was laid in which could be thought of, as prefervatives to health. Thefe, and an unremitting attention to the rules obferved by Captain Cook, jiave, under Providence, been the means of preferving the health of the people, in every variety of climate ; for dur- ing the prefent Voyage, which has been of more than three years continuance, the Queen Charlotte, out of thirty-three hands, loft only one perfon. Though a knowledge of this circumftance is of the ut- moft importance to all perfons who are engaged in a fea- faring hfe, and therefore can never be made too public, yet that alone would fcarcely have been thought a fuffi- cient inducement to publifti the following Work ; but it is prefumed that the advantages which both Geography and Commerce will derive from this Voyage, are neither uninterefting or unimportant ; fo that there perhaps will need no apology for laying the refult of it before the world. x\ In order tliat tlie Reader may form a better idea of the advantages which may be derived from this publication, a brief recapitulation of v(^hat has been done by former Navigators on the American Coail, and particularly what b 2 addition xu INTRODUCTION. addition we have made to the late Captain Cook's Difco- veries, together with a lliort account of the fur trade, may perhaps not be improper in this place. The Ruffian Navigator, Beering, feems to have been the firll who explored this inhofpitable coaft to the North- ward of King George's Sound : he is faid to have fallen in with the land in 58 deg. 28 min. North latitude, and to have anchored in 59 deg. 18 min. Tfcherikow, in 174 1, anchored about the latitude 56 deg. That both thefe Navigators fell in with the A.merlcan Coaft, is beyond a doubt ; but in what fituation they made the land, or where they anchored, is by no means equally certain. The beft accounts we have of thefe Voyages are very inaccurate ; and it Ihould be remembered, that Navigation at that period of time was by no means brought to the perfealon which it is in at prefcnt : add to this, the coaft in the fttuation which Beering is laid to have anchored in, viz. 59 degrees 18 minutes North la- titude, trends nearly Eaft and Weft ; fo that in the ftate Navigation was in at that time, a mlftake of fix or eight degrees in longitude might be cafily made ; and there is o-reat reafon to fuppofc, that though this celebrated Navi- gator might be corrca in his latitude, yet the place be * aftuallv INTRODUCTION. aaually anchored In is much nearer Cook's River than is ufually laid down in the charts. But whiU^ we lament the imperfea ftate of Navigation, and the ftill more imperfeft accounts given to us of this famous Ruffian's Voyages, which entirely prevent us to Hiy what part of the coaft, at leaft within our limits, he furveyed with any degree of precifion, it is no lefs incumbent on me to detea the fallacy of a more modern Navigator on the fame coalL In the Journal of a Voyage to the North Weft Coaft of America, by Don Francifco Antonio Maurelle, pub- liflied by the Hon. Mr. Daines Barrington, after ftatino- what they had already done, is the following paftage : *' We now attempted to find out the Straight of Admiral Fonte, though as yet we had not difcovered the Archi- pelago of St. Lazarus, through which he is faid to ha^e failed. With tills intent we fearched cvsrj' hav and re- cefs on the coiiil, and failed round every head-land^ lyin7' to in the night, that we might not lofe fight of this cji- trance. After thefe pains taken, and being favoured by a North Wcjl ivind, it may be pronounced that no fuch Straights are to be found." ^■' Why " Sec ijarrip{^tc::'^ Mifai! mios. page qc<^. x\v INTRODUCTION. Why Maurelle fliould (o pofitlvely alTert a palpable falfehood, it is not eafy to conceive. Indeed the incon- fiftency of this affertion may be eafily feCn, if we confider it but for one moment ; for if he aaually had '-'- fearchcd e'very bay and reccfs on the coajl^ and Jailed round every head-land^ lying-to in the night ^' even with the fair wind he fpeaks of, all this, I fay, could not polTibly have been done during twice the fpace of time he was on this part of the coaft. But the difcovery of Queen Charlotte's Illands during the prefent Voyage, inconteftibly proves that Don Francifco Maurelle was never near the place- which he boafts of having *' looked for in vain:' The fituation of thefe Iflands, viz. from 54 deg. 20 min. to 51 deg. 56 min. North latitude, and from 130 to 133 dco-. 30 min. Weft longitude, evidently lliews that they are the Archipelago of St. Lazarus, and confequently near the Straight of De Fonte, though farther refearches muft be made before any degree of credibility can be given to his pompous account of the place. However, if the Spaniards on this occafion could find no iflands where they actually cxift, at other times they have difcovered land which we now find to be imaginary. The iflands Los Majos, La Mafo, and St. Maria la Gorta, laid down by Mr. Roberts, from 18 deg. 30 min. to 28 INTRODUCTION. deg. North latitude, and from 135 deg. to 149 deg. Weft longitude, and copied by him from a Spanifti M.S. chart, were in vain looked for by us, and, to ufc Mau- relle's words, " it may he pronounced that no fuch IJlands are to he found ;" fo that their intention has uniformly been to miflead rather than be of fervice to future Na- vigators. To expatiate on the abfurdity, not to call it by a worfe name, of fuch condua, would be painful ; let us then turn from fo difagreeable a fubjed, and fay a few words refpeaing the Difcoveries of our immortal coun- tryman, the late Captain Cook. This celebrated Navigator fell in with the American Coaft in 44 deg. North latitude, but had no opportunity of coming to anchor till he arrived at Nootka, which he named King George's Sound. It is fituated in 49 deg. 36 min. North latitude; and 126 deg. 42 mln. Weft longitude. XV On leaving this harbour, he was prevented by bad wca-^ ther from keeping in with the coaft,* and did not again fee '' At noon on the 28th April, 1778, the latitude by obfervation was 51 cleg. I niin. North J longitude 229 deg. 26 min. Eaft. I now fleered Nortii XVI INTRODUCTION. lee the land till he was In the latitude of ^j deg. 20 mui. North. After this, Captain Cook had generally an opportunity of keeping the coaft a-hoard ; he afcer- tained the fituation of Cape Edgecumhe, difco\'cred Kave's Illand, Prince William's Sound, and Cook's Ri- ver, in which two lall mentioned places he came to an- chor. To fay that thefe different harbours are laid down with accuracy and precifion, would be unneceffary ; it is fuffi- cient to obferve, that they were furveyed by Captain Cook. It North Weft by North, with a frefli gale at South South Eaft, and fiiii' weather ; but at nine in the evening it began again to blow hiird and in fqualls, with rain. With fuch weather, and the wind between South South I'Laft and South Weft, I continued the fame cuurfc till the 30th, at four in the iporning, when I ftcered North by Weft, in order to make the land. I regretted very much, indeed, that I could not do it fconcr ; for this obvious reafon, that we were now pafTmg the place where Geo- graphers have placed the pretended Straight of Admiral de Fonte. For my own parr, I give no credit to fuch vague and improbable ftories, which carry their own confutation with them. Neverthelefs, I was very dcfirous of keepirg the American Coaft a-board, in order to clear up this point beyond difpute. But it would have been highly imprudent in me to have engaged with the land in weather fo exceedingly tempeftuous, or to have loft the advantage of a fair wind, by waiting for better weather. This fame day at noon we were in latitude 53 deg. 22 min. North; and longitude 223 deg. 14 min. Eaft. See Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Vol. ii. page 343. INTRODUCTION. It is needlefs to trace this excellent Navigator's Difco- veries any farther to the Northward, as they are uncon- nefted with the prefent Voyage, and their importance is well known to the world ; but it may be necefTary to obferve, that Captain Cook met with furs only in Cook's River, Prince William's, and King George's Sounds, fo that thefe places were moft likely to engage the attention of any perfons wholliould engage in that branch of com- merce. xvu Who the Gentlemen were that firft embarked in the fur-trade, is perhaps not generally known, though it is certam they were not hardy enough to fend veffels in that employ dire£tly from England ; for we find, that the firlt velTel which engaged in this new trade was fit- ted out from China : flie was a brig of fixty tons, com- manded by a Captain Hanna, who left the Typa in April, 1785. • His deftination was for King George's Sound,' where he arrived the following Auguih Soon after his arrival, the natives attempted to board his ^-eirel in open day, but were repulfed with confide- rable llaughter : this affair fecured the friendfhip of the Indians, for they afterwards traded quietly and peaceably. Captain Hanna is faid to have procured a valuable cargo c of 3li^lU INTRODUCTION. of furs, though the number has never been mentioned.''^ He left Nootka tlie latter end of September, and arrived at Macao the end of December of the fame year. The iime Gentleman failed again from Macao in May, 1786, in the Sea Otter, of one hundred and twenty tons, and arrived at King George's Sound in Augulh The fuc- cefs he met with in this expedition was never made known, but no doubt it was greatly inferior to that of his former voyage : he arrived at Macao in February, 1787. The fnow Lark, Captain Peters, of two hundred and twenty tons and forty men, failed from Macao in Julv, 1786. Captain Peters had orders to make the North Weit Coall, by wav of Kamfchatka, and was dirc6ted to examine the illands to the Northward of Japan. He ar- rived at Kamfchatka the 20th of AugufV, and left that place the 1 8th of September. Accounts have iince been received, that this velfcl was loil on Copper Illand^ and tliat rnly two of the people were laved. In the beginning of 1786, the fnow Captain Cook,, of three hundred tons, and the fnow Experiment, of one hundred * A particular account of the furs which have been coUcdcd on the- Noith Weil Coail, will be given in the following W'oik. INTRODUCTION. Imndrcd tons, were fitted out from Bombay. Thefe vcf- fels arrived at Nootka the end of June following ; from thence they proceeded to Prince William's Sound. After fomc flay there, they left the coail, and afterwards ar- rived fafe at Macao ; but the quantity of furs they pro- cured is fuppofed to have been very inconfiderable. In the Spring of the fame year, 1786, two veflels were fitted out from Bengal, viz. the Nootka, of two hundred tons, Captain Meares, and the Sea Otter, of one hundred tons, Captain Tipping. Captain Meares failed from Bengal in March, and an account of his delHnation is given in the following Work, as he was met with by us in Prince William's Sound. The Sea-Otter, Captain Tipping, left Calcutta a few- days after the Nootka. Her deilination was for Prince William's Sound, where ilie arrived in September, whUft the Captain Cook and the Experiment were there. She left the Sound the day after, fuppofed for Cook's River, but having never fmce been heard of, there can be but little doubt of her beinir loll. xiz c 2 The ?x INTRODUCTION. The Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley, left Oftend the latter end of November, 1786, and arrived at Nootka the beginning of June, 1787. Some account of his ex- pedition will be met with in the prcfent Voyage. Having given a brief ablhaa of the different Voyages, which have hitherto been made to the North Weft Goaft of America, I cannot help noticing an expedition that was planned prior to any of them, and which, had it. been carried into execution, muft have proved exceed- ingly advantageous to the Proprietors, and very proba- bly would have entirely engroffed this lucrative branch, of commerce. So early as 1781, William Bolts, Efq; fitted out the. Cobenzell, an armed fliip of 700 tons, for the North- Weft Coaft of America. She was to have lliiled from Triefte (accompanied by a tender of forty-five tons) un- der Imperial colours, and was equally fitted out for trade or difco.very : men of eminence in every department of fcience were engaged on board ; all the maritime Courts- of Europe were written to, in order to fecure a good re- ception for thefe vefifels, at their refpeftivc ports, and favourable anfwcrs were returned; yet, after all, this expedition, fo exceedingly promifing in every point of view, INTRODUCTION. view, was overturned by a fet of interefted men, then in power at Vienna. This fl-iort fketch of what has yet been done in the fur trade, will ferve to fliew that the attention of every trader for ikins on the American Coaft has been fixed on Cook's River, Nootka, and Prince William's Sound ; but the Reader will find, on perufing this Voyage, that a greater quantity of furs may reafonably be expefted in many parts of the coafi, than at the harbours juft mentioned, and will not, I hope, accufe me of vanity in affertino-, that a more fpirited undertaking was never fet on foot by individuals, oi\ true commercial principles-. What additions we have made to the difcoveries of Captain Cook, may eafily be feen, by cafiing an eye on die annexed general chart. However, as the whole of it is not laid down from my ownfur\'ey, it will be but juf- tice for me to mention the different authorities from which I ha^■e taken the remainder. XXI From the Kodiac of Captain Cook, (which is the Wef- termolt part of the chart) to Whitfunday Bay, is tlie fame as publilhcd from Captain Cook's furvey ; from thence to Cape Douglas I have taken from the track of the fnovv Nootka, XXll INTRODUCTION. Nootka, Captain Meares, which chart was put into my hands by Mr. Rofs, Chief Mate, and the track is marked with a dotted hne. From Cape Douglas to Cook's Ri- ver, and as far to the Southward and Eaftward as Port- lock's Harbour, is laid down from Captain Portlock's and my own furvey ; and here we differ in feveral places from the general Chart of Captain Cook. From Portlock's Harbour as flir Southward as Beres- ford's Ille, is entirely laid down from my own furvey. The undiaded part of the chart, from Woody Point round to Cape Cox, is. taken from two charts which Mr. Cox very obligingly favoured me with ; the one by Cap- tain Gnife, Commander of the Ihow Experiment ; the other by Captain Hanna, Commander of the fnow Sea- Otter ; and from Point Breakers South, is from a chart by Captain Berkley, Commander of the Imperial Eagle. It yet remains for me to befpeak the candour and in- tlulgcnce of the reader, in perufing the following Work, as it was written by a pcrfon on board the Queen Char- lotte, who has been totally unufed to literary purfuits, and equally fo to a fea-faring life. However, to obviate any ubjeaion that might poffibly arifc from his deficiency in I nautical INTRODUCTION. nautical knowledge, I have been particularly careflil in correaing that part of the Work, and by way of Appen- dix, have given every thing of the kind which, in my opi- nion, can be any way interelHng to a feaman ; as alfo a lliort iketch of the few fubjefts we have met with in Natural Hiilory, that are likely to engage the attention of the curious ; and I hope that a plain narrative o^ faBs, written at the time when the dliferent occurrences' hap-- pened, will prove intererting, though deficient in fmooth- nefs of language, or elegance of compofition. G, D. XXIU CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION ■* LETTER I. RE A SONS for writing an account of the Voyage II. Account of the vefels and their dejlination III. Leave the River— anchor at Gravefend— leave that place-^ meet with a heavy gale of wind in the Downs— Arrival of the Jlnps at Spithead - - - _ . IV. Short account of Spithead and Portf mouth V. Pafagefrom Spithead to Gucrnfey—In danger off the Cafketts — arrival at Gucrnfey — defer iption of it VI. Departure from Guernfiy—pick up a cafk of wine at fea— pafs by Madeira, and fend letters from thence to London - VII. Pafi by Raima, Ferro, and Bonavijla— arrival at St. Jago, and tranfaBions there VIII'. Account of St. f ago and the inhabitants IX. Departure from St. f ago— an account of crofjing the line, and fundry other occurrences - - _ X. Continuation of the pafige from St. Jago to Falkland's yiands — arrival there - - _ _ XI. Employments engaged in whilji at Falkland's Ifands—an account of them and their produ5lions XII. Pafiigefrom Falkland's I/lands round Cape Horn XIII. The paffage from Cape Horn to Oivhyhee XIV. Difappointed in water i/!g at Owhyhee—purcbafe water at JVhahoo—leave that place— proceed to Onjchoxc, and there procure a Jhck of yams - - - _ i\ O I 8 i6 J? 27 4J 46 51 S$ ^xvi I '4 CONTENTS. Page LETTER . , ^ c,,j,^, jn^er-^meet there ■with ., party 'f^f" i; i„ Crf. Rher, tcge- ther ■with a fiort Jefinptton of the Mja XVIII. Continuatton of the prcceeai^ Sound^ReJJcmons thereupon ' j„ fi,e paf^ 'ipnds-Ccme to anchor at tVhaboo jj^j-^,;f,h„ ,/ the Kitig's Kcphe^ws-An attempt^ t j ^ frujirated - - i^^„f^aions at Wbahoo-tbe vviii Further account of tue irfuji "^id^that ifl^^^^fP^;:X'P:ha,d at Atoui- XXlV. P-.>"^ ;i:7;.W i OnUo^^he Kin, i!:i'::z:t!^::^rjdtocut_hc^ avaliitojl-a ' ' ^,^j arrive at Atoiil— Friend- ,;,;,/ 'varioin ether tranja^tons^ ^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^ Omiww-recover XXVII. 6i 65 78 96 109 117 123 132 the i:r.cr:ors Jail again for '[^j, .u,rc b^ the King George nd Atom C O NT E N T S. XKVU 7 3 LETTER Pagp XXVIII. Rcafons ghen for not Jiopping at Oneehow—^nfagt from the Sandwich I/lands to the North Weft Coaji — mifiake difcovered in Captain Cook's general Chart — come to anchor at Montague IJland - _ _ - 14^^ XXIX. Indians come into the harbour who fpeak Engllfh — the Jhips proceed towards Prince William's Sound — Captain Dixon ' makes an excurfon to Snug Corner Cove— finds a vefel there , from Bengal — account of the difirefs they had undergone 15$ XXX. The King George's long-boat fent to Cooks River — a fifring party in danger of being cut off by the Indians — the veffels leave Montague Ifland^ and afterwards feparate — the ^een Charlotte arrives at Port Mulgrave XXXI. 'TranfaSiions at Port Mulgrave — account of the inha- bitants — their method of fijloing — cooking — burial places — ar- ticles not liked in traffic _ _ - XXXII. Departure from Port Mulgrave — arrival at Norfolk Sound, and tranfaSlions there _ _ _ XXXIII. Defcription of Norfolk Sound — the number of inha- bitants — their manners., cufioms, and method of trade XXXIV. Leave Norfolk Sound — proceed along the Coa/l — ar- rival at Port Banks — defcription of that place^ and tranfaSlions there — leave Port Banks and proceed alotig the Coajl — meet with Indiatis who poffefs fame very fine furs - 19^ XXXV. Trade with various tribes of Indians along the Coafi — g^eat number of excellent furs procured — Hippah Ifiand dif- covered — various articles ufed in barter — a lip-piece pur- chafed - _ - _ - 209 XXXVI. Continuation of traffic with the Indians along the Coafl — reafons for fuppofing that the land now cruifmg along is a ^ roupe of ifiands not before difcovered — dtfcription of one of lb: Lhiefs - = - =- =21 cl 2 166 J 77 184^ 192 W 3 '1 i xxviH C O N T E N T S. M'TTKR • P-'S«' XXXVII. A'fciiipt of tlh- JmliiWs to pal fun-— in danger rff Ctipf St. y^mcs — the laud now fallen in ivith, named S^ueen Cl.wlottes JJlands— general dejiription of the inhahitants — fall in li'itb t-ico Englijh ve/feh icho had been in King George's Soundy and found there a jhip from Ojlend - 234 XXXVIII. Ceneral account oj the ylmerican Coafl—tbe num- ber of inhalntants — their temper — difpoftion — nieth'J of traf- fn: — r,irious fpecimens of their language - - 246 XX XIX. Departure from the Coajl of America— pnfage from thence to the Sandwich //lands — arrival at Oichyhce — tranf- atlions there — come to anchor at Whahoo—purchaf ivood and ivater there - - - - - 254 XL. Depart from If'hahoo, and proceed to Atoui — tnwfadlions then — a remarkable infance of feeling in one of the Chiifs— general account of the Sandicich J/lanJs XL I. Account of the Sandicuch JJlands continued— their man- ners— cujloms—drefs— diver/ions, and a fpecimen of their lan- guage - - - - - XLII. Departure from the Snndwich IJlands—pafs by finian — Arrival at Macao - - - XLIII. Proceed to Wampo—tranfatTions then — arrival of the King George— death of Mr. M'Leod, Captmtt Port lock's Chief Mate ' - - - - 298 XLIV. Further account of tranf anions at Canton— the furs fold — reafons given for their not fetching a better price— the Jhips leave l^ampo and proceed '5 Macao - - 305 XLV. General account of Canton— defcription of the inhabi- tants — their manners and cujloms— their commerce— the produce cf the country— religion, (^c. - - '3^4 X1.A'I. Particular account of the fur-trade - 322 264 280 288 CONTENTS. LETTER „ P.igc XL VII. rhe fiips leave Macao— death of Mr. Lauder, Sur- geon to the ^ecn Charlotte— proceed through the Straights of Banca and Sunda—anchor at North IJland—in danger off Java Head _ _ _ _ , XLVIII. Ihc vrfch part company— a heavy gale of wind— the pumps choakcd with fand~got up and cleared- double the Cape of Good Hope - _ _ - ■?4.8 XLIX. Arrival at St. Helena— fnd there the King George- departure from thence and arrival in England - 352 XXIX NATURAL HISTORY. Crab from the Sandwich IJlands defcribed - - , -^ New genus of Jliell from ditto - - _ . . New genus of JJ.ells from the Coajl of America, with a defcrip- 355 356 357 358 359 360 tion of each Ditto from Falkland s IJlands The Yellow tufted Bee-Eater from Sandwich IJlands defcribed The White winged Crofs-Bilffrom Montague IJland defcribed The Patagonian Warbler from Falkland's IJlands defcribed The JocoJe Shrike from Chiiia defcribed ERR A i A. ir: U E R T A. X AGE 56, line 23, for longitude 152 deg. 14 min. read 150 deg. 10 min. P. 57, 1. 2, for latitude 51 deg. read 51 deg. 24 min. and IongI« tude 149 deg. 35 min. Ibid. 1. 13, for longitude 147 deg. 18 min. read 148 deg. 34 minv Ibid. I. 18, for longitude 149 deg. 50 min. read 149 deg. 22 min. Ibid. 1. 24, for longitude 151 deg. 13 min. read 151 deg. 4 min. and for latitude 58 deg. 14 min. read 58 deg. 34 min. J*. 73, 1. 22 and 23, for latitude 58 deg. and longitude 137 deg. 38 min. read lat. S7 deg. 35 min. and long. 137 deg. 12 min. P. 76, 1. 14, for longitude 134 deg. 22 min. read 133 deg. 53 min. P. 86, 1. 25, for longitude 154 deg. 14 min. read .151 deg. 24 min. P. 196, 1. 13, for longitude 134 deg. 54 min. read 135 deg. 12 min, P. 197, I. 19, for longitude 134 deg. 56 min. read 134 deg. 30 min. P. 198, 1. 20, for longitude 133 deg. 50 min. read 134 deg. P. 205, 1. 10, for latitude 53 deg. 16 min. read 53 deg. 28 mi». P. 212, 1. 3, for latitude 51 deg. 46 min. read 51 deg. 56 min. P. 214, 1. 17, for latitude 51 deg. 56 min. read 51 deg. 48 min. P. 216, 1. 1 1, for " our foundings lejfened" read " our foundings increafed." P. 222, 1. 3, for South 5 deg. Eaft, read South 5 deg. Weft. P. 247, 1. 14, for " animal and vegetable fubftances," read " ani- mal fubftances." p. 363, 1. 25, read " cocoa-palm, banana, and paper-mul,berry trees. Direalons for the Binder. m^ THE Chart to face Sketch of a Bay South fide of Whahoo A View in the Bay of Whahoo A view of the Volcano in Cook's River Views of Cape St. Hermogenes, Staten's Land, iQand Sketch of Port Mulgrave Ditto of Norfolk Sound The Difli and Daggers View of Cape Edgecumbe Sketch of Port Banks View of Hippah Ifland The Lip -piece and Spoon View of Cape St. James, &c. - The V^oman from Queen Charlotte's lUes The Indian's Song Cancer Raninus, upper fuU Ditto ditto, under fide Apex Fulva Yellow tufted Bee-Eater W^hite winged Crofs-Bill Patagonian V/arbler Jocofe Shrike Title-page, Page S4f - SS 62 and Montague 72. 170 184 188 192 19s 205: 208 214 226 24s 35J 354 355 357 35» 359 360 I j VOYAGE, &C. LETTER I. DEAR HAMLEN, WHEN I took leave of thee at my departure from London^ thou prefTedft me with all the warmth of friendfhip, to fend thee not only a defcription of every country and place I might have an opportunity of feeing, but a minute account of every circumftance, however trivial, that fiiould occur during my naval peregrination. I fliall endeavour to fulfil thy requeft with the •greateft pleafure, and that not only for thy amufement, but for the employment of my own leifure hours. As thy nmtical excur- fions, if I miftake not, never reached farther than Deptford or Black- wall, I am lefs apprehenfive of any blunders I may make in the ufe of terms relating to navigation, as it will not be in thy power to laugh at my expence ; and I know thy generofity too well, to thmk thee capable of expoling my ignorance to the ridicule ^ A of 1785. Augulh ^ A VOYAGE TO T H€ » ,78s. of profefllonal men. However, what I may f ^'.^l^^^^^^ f^f^. A">?«' or bad, wiU, I flatter myfelf, be acceptable to thee, if for no other ^"■"^ reafon but tliat it comes from affuredly tlime, Gravesend, 7 agthAugxift. J LETTER II. DEAR HAMLEN, ■O EF ORE I proceed to inform tliee of any fea occurrences, it 15 will be neceflary to mention a few previous particulars, for thv better information. Before I came on board, my idea of the Voyage was fo very imperfeft,, that it was out of my power to give thee any notion of oui- deftination. I now can tell thee, that during the late Captain Cook's laft Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, it was found that it would be eafily praaicable to eltablilh a valu- able Fur Trade on the American Coaft. and to difpofe of them to great advantage at China. Though this was fo long f.nce as the vear 1780, yet the profecution of any plan lay dormant till Spring laft when a fet of gentlemen procured a charter from the South Sea' Company, and were incorporated for the exprefs purpofe of carrying on this trade to the beft advantage ; to facilitate which they purchafed two veflels, and got them ready for failing with all expedition. The NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Tlie bsgev Hiip is called the King George, and commanded by Captam Portlock (who is Commander in Chief for the voyage) and the fmallcr vefTel (which I am on board) the Queen Charlotte commanded by Captain Dixon. Thefe gentlemen were appointed to the command of this expe- chtion wuh peculiar propriety, not only as able navigators, but (having been this voyage with Captain Cook) they well knew what parts of the Continent were likely to afford us the beft trade • and could alfo form a tolerable idea of the temper and difpofition of the natives: add to this, they are men of feeling and humanity and pay the moft ftria attention to the health of their fhips com- panies, a circumftance of the utmoft confequence i« a voyage of fuch ength as^this feems likely to be. Having premifed thus far. I fhall proceed to acquaint thee of every circumftance relating to the Voyage ; but having an opportunity of forwarding this, I have only time to fay, that I am well and truly thine Gravesend, \ Jtgth Auguft. J W. B. 1785. Auguft. LETTER HI. J G O T on board the Queen on Saturday evening, the 27th X Auguft and was received with great civility by my mefs-mates, who were the Firft, Second, and Third Mates, the Surgeon, and A 2 the K" 1i1 ^ A VOYAGE TO THE i7?5. the Captain's Clerk. The Doaor (a young Scotchman of two ^"S"ft- and twenty) very kindly explained to me the nature and ceconomy of our mefs, and every other particular as far as time would permit. When bed-time came on, I was in a fad dilemma, for my cot had been fent by miftake on board the King Geoi'ge ; but my friend the Doaor very kindly offered me part of his, which I accepted with reluftance, as I was fenfible it would greatly incommode h'm : however, we made tolerable fliift. About midnight, the cot broke down, and my fituation was truly difagreeable ; but I chofe to bear it patiently, rather than difturb my companion ; but " the grey morn in ruffet mantle clad," was never more welcome to any one, than the approach of this was to me. The fituation of life which I am now entering upon, being altogether new to me, 1 muft inform thee of the plan I have laid down for the regulation of my future conduct: ; and I hope thou wilt join with me in thinking it the moft probable method of fecuring to myfclf a tolerable ihare of happinefs and tranquility during my voyage. As I am a perfe6l ftranger to eveiy perfon on board, and equally fo to the manners and cuftoms of a fea-faring life, I am determined to affimilate myfelf as much as poflible to both, or, as Chefterfield phrafes it, to be " All things to all men." This, I am afraid, will be no eafy talk, but fureiy the objea in view is well worth any pains I can take to attain it. I know thee to be fo fond of characters, that thou art already impatient to be acquainted with thofe of my fhip-mates ; but don't be too much in a hurry ; at a future opportunity I perhaps may oblige thee with an attempt of the defcriptive kind. * Our NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Our pilot being come on board, and every thing being ready for failing, we weighed anchor on the 29th, at nine o'clock in the morn- ing, and ftood down the river for Gravefend. The profpeft on each fide the river, though not fo enriched with gentlemen's feats or pleafure grounds, as beyond London the other way, is truly pleafing : it affords many extenfive views, which are agreeably variegated, and inconteftibly prove, that Nature alone is often fuperior to the utmoft refinements of Art. The wind and tide being in our favour, we came to anchor at Gravefend about two o'clock. Near this place is Tilbury Fort, the fight of which reminded me of G. A. Stevens's Politician, in his celebrated Lec- ture on Heads. After dinner, I went with the Surgeon in one of our boats to Gravefend, to purchafe fome neceflaries for our mefs and to gratify my curiofity with a fight of the place : but I can give thee no farther defcription of it, than that the ftreets are narrow and dirty, and the inhabitants chiefly thofe who gain a livelihood by employment either at fea or on the river. Though we were got thus far, yet our voyage had like to have been greatly retarded, on the following account. The articles of agreement being read to the people this evening, they refufed to fign them without a greater advance of wages than is ufually given ; but this Captain Poi tlock abfolutely refufed to comply with, and after reafoning with them fome time, they chearfully agreed to proceed on the voyage : thus, by the addrefs of Cai)taiii Portlock, was this hiatus got over, which otherwifc would have proved very difagreeable, and polfibly have loft us the feafon. On the 30th in the morning, the people of both fliips were paid what wages were due to them, together with a month's advance which they prefently laid out in purchafing neceliaries of the (lop^ boats 1785. Auguft. !!)-; !■ 'U! •!';•' :ii|i! ^^^!!i :!!ll liii 1785- Au^hght in our favour, and at a confiderable dirtancc from iand. Towards the evening the ftorm abated, which eafed mv ^pprcheniions, and I ventuied on deck ^ but, good God ! how was I amazed ? AVOYAGETO THE 1785. I amazed to fee the fea rolling in billows mountains high, and September, ^.^^^.-j^g -^^ ^ j^^ft tremendous manner, every wave fufRcient to fwallow up our little veflel. .J The next day the waters had recovered their ufual ferenity, and all Nature feemed to be as it were renovated. How forcible is that fimile of the good old Patriarch, when defcribing the fickle- r.efs of his fon : " He (hall be (fays he) unftable as water." Thou wilt forgive me thefe trifling digreffions ; when they rife to the end of my pen, (if I may be allowed the expreffion) I never check them ; and thou, perhaps, wilt like them better than the moft ftudied paragraphs. My letter feems fwelled to an unreafonable length, tlierefore I fliall only obferve at prefent, that we came to anchor at this place on the 8th in the afternoon, after a very agreeable day's fail. Thou mayeft exped a further continuation the firft opportunity Thine, &c. W B Spithead, 7 9th September. J m LETTER IV. li THIS place is fituated betwixt Portfmouth and the lAe of Wight, and is about eight or ten miles over. It is only a harbour for vellels that drop in occafionally, or fuch of his Ma- jelty^s NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jefty's flilps as are deftined for immediate fervice. The place for ^7^S- vefTels thit are laid up, or repairing, being up a narrow creek, ^'C^ which divides Portfmouth from Gofport. '— v-w One of the firft objeas that prefentcd itfelf to my view, on our firfl coming to anchor, was the marts of the Royal George, which ihip, thou mayeft remember, went to the bottom a few years ago It 13 a melancholy reflexion, that near fifteen hundred poor fouls Ihould penfli in a moment, many of whom were of the firft fami- lies. There are a number of line of battle Ihips at anchor here, the fight of which is quite a novelty to me j but that which renders the profpea from hence completely charming, is the beautiful land- fcape which the Ifle of Wight affords. Nothing in Nature can prefent a more deleftable appearance, than the enchanting verdure of Its fields and meadows. I can fay nothing of its infulated ap- pearance, but am told, that it is at leaft equal to the coaft • if fo It muft be a moft defirable refidence for thofe who are fond of a country retirement. Spithead is a moft excellent market for the farmer to difpofe of his various produce, the number of fhips conflantly lying here confuming more than they can poflibly furnifii them with, and for which they in general obtain good prices, (particularly in time of war) though we laid in both live ilock and other neceflarics for our mcfs very reafonable, fuch as hogs, geefe, fowls, rabbits, ducks, and hams J cheefe, butter, onions, potatoes, &c. 6cc. Amongft the men of war at anchor here, is the Goliah of -. guns Captain Sir Hyde Parker. Mr. Lauder, (our Surgeon) had been burgeon's Mate on boaal her, and having a number of ac- quaintance there, he very kindly invited me to go on board along with Lx-ii 10 A VOYAGE TO THE 1785. September. Mr with hull. Thou mayefl: be fare that I was greatly pleafed with fuch an opportunity ofgratifyuig my curiofity, and readily accept- ed his invitation. Wc were on board fevcral hours, but I am too great a novice in fea matters to give thee any tolerable dclcription of a man of war : indeed I had it not in my power, if 1 had ability, for, being an abfolute ilrangcr to every body, (the Doctor totally engrofl'ed by his old Ihipir.ites) I could not with propriety alk any particular qucilions. Thus far I can tell thee, that the decks, and indeed every paliags and gangway, are kept as neat and clean as a good country houfewife would her trenchers : they have not near fo many people on board as In time of war, but even then, I am told they are equally attentive in regard to clean- linefs. This, I believe, was far from being the cafe formerly, till abfolute necelTity convinced them of its utility. In abfolute governments one, perhaps, might fee inferior ranks of people kept in due fubordination, though an Englilhman can ill brook it, liberty and freedom being with him innate principles ; but the Captain of a man of war is, I underlland, more abfolute than the moll defpotic monarch. Prudence may, fometimes, make this exertion of power neceflary, as a man of war, (like a common fewer) is the receptacle for the moft profligate and abandoned of mankind. We dined on board, along with upwards of twenty Midfliipmen, Doctor's Mates, &c. and every thing was conducted with the utmoft regulaiity and decorum, accompanied with a politenefs which I was far from cxpecling at lea, and which, I believe, is not always the cafe; harmony and decorum, nay, com- mon decency, being pretty often kicked out of doors, in regaid to Portfmouth I can fay but little, being there only a few hours. I am told it is the bell fortified of any place in the kingdom, aud I am apt to believe it. Exclufive of the dock-yard, and other pub- lic works carried on here, the town is inconlidcrable, though it is I the 'l§ NORTH-V/EST COAST OF AMERICA. II Aelaigeft ■„ this part of the country. In timeof war, the people '78,. m inns, and places of public refort, are particularly exorbitant ^''"""•'■'•• m therr charges, finding, 1 fuppofe, .hat proverb verified, that Sadors get their money like horfes, and fpend it like alles " This however, is notaKv,,ys the cafe, for I fupped and (pent a very con. viyial evening with our Firft Mate, and a relation of Captain Dixon s at the Star and Garter, which is reckoned one of tT deareft houfes. and we found every accommodation excellent, and' their charges very moderate. Here are a number of Jews, who principally live m one ftreet, called Jews-ftreet, and a great many proftitutes of the lowed clafs. who always have a plentiful harveft m time of war. from the wages and prize-money of unwary Our bufinefs at this place (fiich as filling up our water dio curmg flnp, ftores. &c.) being complea.ed, we Iharf I Cm hence the firft fan- wind ; but thou mayeft expeft a continuarion from Guernfey. at which place we fliall touch """""«'™ S„T,„»„, , ^*"'' '^'"'- «"^- W. B. 14th Sept. J LETTER V. A GREE ABL Y to my rromlfc, I now fit down to give thee -TV a continuation of our progreis, tliough it blows fo very b htr H, ^'^: ':" ""^'^ "^^^^°"' (notwithdanding o^ being at double anchor) tliat I fcarcely can write intelligibly We ^ ^ left 12 1785. September. A VOYAGE TO THE left Spithcad on the 16th inft. at eight o'clock hi the morning, and pafTed by St. Helen's at eleven ; but the wmd proving contrary, and the weather wet and hazy, we returned to St. Helen's Road, and came to anchor there in the evening. At feven the next morning we weighed, and made fail. 1 he weather during this, and the two following days, was moderate, and the winds variable. On board the King George were feveral ladies, who were going to Guernfey on a jaunt of plcafure ; and a cutter, from Gofport, belonging to our owners, accompanied us for the purpofe of bring- ing them back. On the 19th, in the evening, we were at anchor with what is called the kcdge, (which is one of the fmall anchors) and the cutter was moored to our flern with a llout rope ; but though the weather was very moderate, the tide run fo ftrong, that the rope prefently broke, and the cutter ran adrift : the fluke of our anchor was likewife carried away; this, however, was attended with no great inconveniency. Though I am fo young a failor, yet I had already been in fome danger, as thou mayelt recoi- led when we had a heavy gale of wind off Beacliy ; and i was again deftined to be in a much worfe lituation, from (juitc a con- trary caufe, viz. a calm. This, to one like thee, will feem a paradox, ^s you people who never faw fait water muft needs think it the beft weather when the fky is clear, and the water linooth. On the 20th, in the afternoon, we faw the Calketts, which are a heap of rocks, fo called by failors, on account, I fuppofe, of their like- nefs. Thefe rocks have been, perhaps, more fatal to mariners, than ever were the famed Scylla and Charibdis of tlie ancients. The tide drifted us right upon them : we were quite becalmed, fo that our veil'el was unmanageable ; and at eight in tlie evening, they were within little more than a mile of us : we had foundings indeed in eighteen or twenty fathom water, but the bottom was nothing but iharp rocks, fo that had we been reduced to the necef- fity *» NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. r^- fity of letting go our anchor j there was fcarcely a poflibility of 1785. Its doin^ us any fervice ; but at nine o'clock the tide turned, and ^'P^*-"'^er. all our apprehenfions were quickly over. This circumftance' will at once fhew thee, that calm, when near land, are oft times more dangerous than violent gales of wind. On the 2 1 ft. about one o'clock, our owners brought us a pilot on board (the harbour of Guernfey being right a- head of us) to take us m ; and it was rather a laughable circumftance, that the man pretended he could not fpcak any Englifli, and we had nobody on board who undeiftood French; but we foon found Monfieur knew fomethmg of Englifh, when he underftood, that if he was Ignorant of our language, we muft provide ourfelves with another pilot. We came to anchor in Guernfey Road about fix o'clock in the evening, the weather wet and hazy. Thou wilt expeft me to fliy fomething about this place, and I Ihall give thee every information in my power with the greateft pleafure, though my account will be much more circumfcribed than I could wifh, notwithftandin<^ this, thou mayeft be alfured, that for the fake of fwelling my nar'' rative I never will forfake the regions of truth, or overleap the bounds of probability. On a rock entirely furrounded by water about three quarters of a mile from the town, ftands the Caftle but Its appearance has nothing of that Gothic caft, which edifices of that kind generally have 3 it is exceeding low, and 1 fancy very ancient the greater part having been recently repaired, which makes it look hke a piece of patch- work. It is defended by a number of guns, and a guard of foldiers ; but what quantity of each I canncft in- form thee. It is likcwife the prifon for all the ifland, either la civil, or criminal cafes. The only thing to recommend the lload where j^ A V O Y A G E T O T H E 1785. where we lay, as a place for Oiips to anchor in is, its excellent Sei'tembcr. ^^^^^^J„^ . ;„ other reCpects, the lituation is very bad, being very much expofed to the winds; but the inhabitants have an excellent place clofe to the town, for their own velfels to lay in, well fecured againft any violent wind or weather whatlbever. Guernfey is liuiated on the fide of a pretty fteep hill, with a Ooi.y, or rather rocky bottom : it confifts of feveral ftreets, wiuch are dark, nar- row, and inconvenient, but always clean, not only on account of fheir hard bottom, but alfo their declivity ; fo that any dirt or filth is always walhed away by the lafl lliower of rain. The houfes in general are built of a coarfe kind of free-ftone, and feldom appear commodious, but never elegant : indeed con- venience alone feems to have been principally attended to, even in the moft modern ones. The iHand, I believe, is not very populous, and moft of the inhabitants are brouoht up to a fea-faring life ; fo that the place, not affording every ncccifary of life in plenty, may, perhaps, be owing to proper want of cultivation, more than its natural llerility. This inconvenience is little felt, as the Gultu- ley cruizers, being alwavL- on the coail ci" England,, (vvhole fertile plains fo amply reward the careful farmer's toil) bring back every thing they want at ^ cheap rate. The merchants who refide at Guernfey are pretty nurrerous, and fome of them confiderable. In tune of war, they at out a number of privateers, and, in general, are pretty iuccefsful; but I am inclined to think, that a Icve of gain prompts them to :hefe undertakings more than love of their countrv. In regard to their trade, it is chiefly of the contraband kind, and that on a very exten- five plan, not being confined to their neighbours, the French alone, but extending to Spain, Portugal, and the Streights. In their reli- gion NORTPI-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. '5 i gici^ (wiMch ,s tl;e Church of England) they are, I am told, very ,,s. exacl, and pay a moft ftria attention to tlie obfervance of the Sab '^P^'"'^^' bath : t,ns diou wilt fay but ill agrees with their living in con- ""^ f^nt;t violation ot Jaws both divine and Junnan. I am rather of the fame opnnon , but I endeavour to reconcile thefc contradidions by mppoHng^ that tne text of fcripture about " rendermg unto Cjcfar. xc. :s left out of their edition of the Bible, and that lib^nv property, and ;;. ,xc//r, is the fu,.damental axiom of their Ma^iua Charta. One benefit which they reap from their encoun- ters vv.t..i the myrmido.is from the LngUlh Cufioms is, that know- ing they are ac^mg conti'ary to law, their men become totally cal- lous to the feelings of humanity, and being thus entirely divefled of tne milk of human kindnefs. they f^ght like devils/ and this may, in a great meafure, account f^^r the great fuccefs the Guernfey privateers generally n.-et with. Wines, brandy, &c. &c. are the principal commodities they trarfick In. Thefe articles, tliou well knoweft, pay heavy duties m England, therefore are belt worth their attention. Till lately the article of tea was a kind of flaple commodity here, but Mr. Pirfs late bill having fo greatly lowered the duties, It IS no longer an objccl woah their attention. What few women I L , v.ere very ordinary , indeed it was no eafy mat- tei to teh v.aut c.vnplexion they wen: of, lb liberally were they bedaubcu wva paint and powder. Then- language teems to be u mixture of .ad Freach, with a provincial diaka, which renders it unintelhgibL .a, :i to every body but themfelves ; however, the gieater part ( .:, people in town fpeak pretty good luirdifh Our principal f..,iaels here was to take fbmc articles from the King Geo;,;- ou ooard our veifel, and to lay in a flock of lic.uor tor the people during the voyage, both which are compleated, and we only wait for a fair wind to weigh anchor, and proceed on our voyage. i4 sir ,g A VOYAGE TO THE ,78s. voyage.— Heigh-ho— I cannot help fighing to thhik what a dlf- Scptember. ^^^^^ j ^^^^ (^^^^ be from— but a truce with all melancholy re- '"""'^ ' fleaions, and whilft I exift. believe me to be, 6cc. W. B. Guernsey, 7 25th September. J LETTER VI. A T the conclufion of my laft I informed thee, that we only J\ waited for a fair wind to leuve Guernfey, which fortunately happened the next day. viz. the 26th September, when we weighed and made fail. On the i 7th, we faw feven iflands, at about feven leagues diftance. On the 28th, fait provifions were Served out to the Ihip's company. I already forefee, that in fulhUihg thy requeft of mentioning every occurrence, I fliall make my letters nothing but a dull repetition of tirefome and uninterefting cuxum- ftances Here methinks I fee thee make a full ftop, and with a fmile mutter to thyfelf, " What the devil does the fellow mean ? He furely has not the vanity to think that the ^^f «^,l"^j^;;^';*^ are any thing elfe than a heap of dull, tedious ftuft ? W ell, it this is thy opinion, 1 mod cordially agree with thee : however were my abiUties greater, it would be out of my power to avoid tautology at all times. On the 30th, grog was ferved out, which made all hands look brilk and choaiful ; thou art not to imagine that I include our mefs in this obfc-rvation, as we had a plentiful ftcck of our own. indepen.dent of the fhip's allowance. We had a !lron^ pie of wind lince our k.vmg Guernfey ; thn I was * "■> ^' famihai- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. familiar to. Before I mention a circumftance that happened on Sunday the 2d of Oftobei-, I mult inform thee that we keep the Sabbath-day in a decent and orderly manner j all hands appearing as the Speaator fays of country villages on the fame occafion' " with then- cleaneft looks and beft cloaths, clearing away the ruft ot the week," and employ thcmfelves in reading good books, no duty beuig carried on that can be avoided. On the 2d, about noon, one of the people faw fomething at a diftance, floating on the water; this immediately excited every one's curiofity, and we wilhed to have a nearer view of it, but havmg little or no wind, the fliip would not obey the helm'- we prepared to hoift out our boat, but the tackles for that purpofe were not at hand. In this dilemma, feveral of the people wiHied to jump over-board, in order to fee what had fo engaged our attention, and to fave it if worth the trouble. At firft Captain Dixon objedbed to this, for fear of fharks, or other accidents ; but there was no alternative, as the expefted prize drifted from us every moment; fo giving leave, two of the people were in the fea in a moment, and found it to be a large caik, entirely covered with a kind of fliell-fifli, called barnacles. They prefently broug;. t it along-fide, and we hoifted it on board. There is no doubt but it had been in the water a long time, as the fifli were with difficulty fcraped off, having nearly eat holes through the calk : on exami- nation it proved to be a hogfliead of claict. This might juftly be reckoned an acquifition, yet it is a melancholy reflexion to think, that no veliel would part with it but in the greateft exigency, and that we only profited by the dilh.:fs of others. Till the 13th, nothing particular occurred ; (we had feen Itrangc fiups at two or three difterent times, but not near enough to dif- C cern 1-7^ 1785. October. II I SI ?J-fl !!■: 1« 1785- October. '] ^ !• A VOYAGE TO THE cern what country they were from) but early in the morning we faw the Ifland of Porto Santo, at about fix leagues diftance ; (thou art to unclerftand, that a league at fea is three miles) and Madeira fometliing nearer : the day being very fine and clear, we kept Handing along the Ihore, within a mile of the land. This ifland, fo famous in the commercial, or J might rather fay, voluptuous world, for its wine, appears mountainous, but not difagreeably fo, as the land flopes down by gentle declivities to the water's edge. The numerous vineyards teem with ripe clufters of the juicy grape, which feem to invite the prefliire of the careful vintner : thefe are ever and anon interfered by various plantations of other kinds, together with convents, and other public edifices, dedicated to reli- gious feclufion, which appear to be very numerous here, and put me in mind of Foote's Mother Cole, when flie complains of the cruel villains " immuring for life fuch fweet young things, &c." Funchall, the capital of the iiland, appears very full of places dedicated to public worihip ; and the ftreets feem regular. With this thou muft be contented, for I have no other opportunity of feeing it than through a perfpe6live glafs, at three miles diftance. When I firft began to write, I was not certain whether fortune would favour me with an opportunity of fending it from Madeira, but on our coming a-breaft of this bay, we found here two of his Majefty's fliips, bound for England ; and we are now laying to, whilrt the packets are getting ready. If I recoiled right, when I firft gave thee an account of our veflels, and their deftination, I did not mention what number of hands we had on board. In our fliip we are tliirty-two in all, including Captain Dixon. On board the King George, they are nearly (if not quite) double that numbcj- ; but fome of thcni are NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. mere children, and belong to people of confequence. who, intend- mg them for the fca, I fuppofe, thought they could not do better than embrace this opportunity of initiating them early in their proreffion ; to do which more complcatly, Captain Portlock has on board a youth from the Mathematical School in Clirift's Hofpital to inftrua them in the theoretical, whilft he steadies them the practical part of navigation. Amongft the « changes and chances of this mortal life," behold thy friend, doomed to fpend fome years of his, if Providence allows lum to exift, entirely fecluded from the bufy world. To the her- mit, this might perhaps be a defirable event: I cannot fay that is by any means the cafe with me. Thou mayeft, indeed, fay, that I am not entirely diverted of the comforts of fociety j-true-buc thou art to underftand, that I have very little converfation witb any except my mefs-mates, and as failors generally introduce M-water fubjedls, and thof. handled fo as to Ihew they have excluded logic from their iludies, my entertainment cannot be great. » , I frequently walk the deck for four hours, without fpeaking as many woMs: at thefc times my thoughts are employed oVa variety of fubjefts, and I propofe committing them to paper, both for my amufement, and to have the pleafure of thy remarks, which I beg thee always freely to make. Our Captain's letters are ready, and the boat is waiting.-Adicu.-Believc me thine, Fun-chali..Rav, (Maddra) 1 ^' ^' 14th Oaobcr. \ ig Ca L i^ T T E R \p; r £0 1785. Odtobcr. A VOYAGE TO THE LETTER VII. IF any thing can exceed the pleafure I have in writing to thee, it is that I have jufl: experienced, viz. the fetting my feet oa terra firma. By this thou wilt conclude I have been on fhore, and confequently expeft a defcription of this Ifland. As good a one as I can give is at thy fervice j but let me refume my narrative where I lad left thee. After fending our letters on board his Majefty's Ihip, we left Funchall-Bay, and .Peered for this place, with moderate breezes, 4nd fine weather.. On the 1 6th we faw Palma and Ferro, (two of the Canary Iflands) bearing South by Eaft, at about twelve leagues diftance. Perhaps thou wilt fmile at my mentioning the hearings and dif- tances j but give me leave to tell thee, that it is methodical and feaman-like : this, I hope, will not only fecure me from thy ani- madverfions, but merit thy approbation. On the 19th, we were in 22 degrees North latitude, and the weather being pretty clear, it was very hot and fultry. Our decks leaked veiy bad, and the carpenters were very bufily employed in- caulking. Early in the morning of the 24th, we faw the Ifland Bonavifta, at feven leagues diftance. If I miftake not this is the Uland which tjie renowned Columbus firft faw, when he failed in queft of a new NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 21 world. At ten o'clock the Ille of Mayo bore N. N. E. four leagued, i; . ^and St. Jago, (our intended port) at eight leagues diftance. ' O-^ober.. Thy knowledge in geography will inform thee, that thefe are part of the Cape de Verd Iflands, and arrfubjed to the Portugueze. At noon we came to anchor in Port Praya Bay, St. Jago, in eight fathom water. The extremes of the land which forms the Bay bore from Eaft by South, to South-Weft. The Caftle and Fort' North-Weft by Weft, diftance from fhore near two miles. ".'i The Ifland St. Jago^is fituated in n'.-ar 14 degrees 54 minutes North latitude; and zj'degrees agminutcs Weft longitude : lean- not fpeak with any degree of certainty in regard to its extent, but I think its utmoft circumference cannot be one hundred miles' It is natural to fuppofe, from its fituation, that the climate i« very hot, and this is greatly increafed by Eafterly winds, which are generally prevalent here ; thefe conftantly blowing from the fandy defarts of Africa, greatly add to the natural heat of the cli- mate. Our bufmefs at this place was to water our veflels, procure frefh provifions, and whatever neceflaries the place afforded, that could by any means conduce to our prcfcnt or future accommodation ; in order to do which, our Captains took the firft opportunity of going on fliore to find out the beft and ealieft method of facili- tating their purpofe. The Commander of the Fort treated them at firft in rathe: a haughty manner, but on having a trifling prefcnt made him, he grew civil, and gave them leave to water the ftiipsi this, it rcems-. being 22 A VOYAGE TO THE Hi J '• ' ir.'i" i -lii ,78s. being all that is in his power, all other necefl-aries being fumiflica ^'■^"^"' by a Portugueze merchant, who reiides within a quarter of a mile from the beach. Every thing for our difpatching bufuiefs being fettled, I had the pleafure of going on ihore with our Captains. An old Negro (a native of the Illand) received us on the beach ; he could fpcak a little broken Englifli, and on underilandlng our bufmefs, went along with us to the merchant's houfe, and proved very ferviceable, for none of us knew a word of Portugueze, and he could fpeak no Englilh, fo that the old man ferved as an interpreter. We were received with great civility and politenefs, and treated with fome excellent Madeira, capilaire, oranges, &c. We paid a guinea for each veffel, as a kind of port charge, and entered their names in a book kept for that purpofe, together with their defti- nation, and fiom whence they came. Captain Portlock agreed with this gentleman for fome beef, and a few other nccelVaries ; but our interpreter informed us, that the country people would furninius with many thmgs we wanted, on cheaper terms than this gentleman. On going to Praya we found a kind of market held there, a number of people being allcmblcd from various parts of the Illand, with different articles to fell, fuch as hogs, fhecp, goats, fowls, turkies, &c. together with oranges, lemons, limes, cocoa-nuts, bananas, a few^ pine-apples, and fmall quantities of clayed fugar, which they make up in parcels like our balkets of fait. The fruit of everv kind was fine, and peculiarly acceptable to us, not only bccaufe '1 fl NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. becaufe they fcrved i„ . moft agreeabie mann.,- to quench thirft. .,85. but likewtfe as they are excellent anti-fcoi butics. .0«r. Of their live ftock, the hogs and tuikies are by far the beft • hen- goats and iheep being very thin and fpare, and their bullocks' (fc. lo .t feems they call them) not fo large as an EngUrh year-oM calt : yet fo poor are the people, that none of them Lid fu „Hh t.sw,tha„y/«y, the merchant, it feems. being the only p f" here able to carry on that traffic. We found old cloaths anfl oy m greater eft,mat,on than cafl, amongft thefe people, efpecially i„ exchange fortharlels valuable articles, fuch as goats, fo'wls, fruit! &c. Th,s was a lucky crcumftance for us, as Englift coin is no current here; however, it was neceflhry .0 have >.. cafl,, whkh we got byappynrg to the merchant, who exchanged our Ldn as fo Spandh dollars, giving us four dollars, equal itere to fiv ft ng cad,, forag„,„ea, fo that the courfe of exchange he el nearly fifteen per cent, againft as. The beft way for any Captai , whopropo.es ,0 touch at this place for a fupply of proviLnf &c would be, to bnng a few articles of hard-lare, fuel, as kLI ' buckles, razo,s. &c. 6cc. thefe woul.l fetch a good profit, and furl nifli hin, with whatever cafl, he might want. cou„t7t'r ' I""' '° ''" """■' '' l'"''^"'- •'"' "i" fi"!* n,y ac- count of this place in my next. Thine, fee. PoRT-PraVA, (St. y,,.; )1 W. B. 36th Otlgbtr. j *J I I LETTER 1785- Oaober. A VOYAGE TO THE LETTER VIII. S INCE the date of my laft, fcvcral fliips have arrived here, viz. three fail from London, and an American brig. 1; I ,. : ^i The American's bufmefs, it feems, was to pick up horfes. or any cattle he could lay hands on j but none being here, he weighed- anchor after flaying a few hours. The London veflels are em- ployed in the Southern whale fifhery ; one of them, ju(t come out, belongs to a Mr. Montgomery, in Prcfcott-ftreet, Goodman's- Fields : the brig I have heard nothing about > and the other Ihip, to — — Hamet, Efq. now Sir Benjamin Hamet. She is called the Hamet, after her owner, and commanded by a Captain Clarke, who is a good hearty kind of man, and fo obliging as to take the charge of our letters. I fliall now proceed to finifh what furtlier account I am able to give thee of this place. The Fort and Caftle, or rather the p;iitry places which ferve as an apology for tliem, are fituated on an emi- nence, near half a mile from the watcr-fide, and commanded by a Captain, with a detachment of foldiers, fufficient, no doubt, to keep the Illand in proper fubjugation, but furely unable to repel any foreign armament. Immediately behind this fortrefs, on a large plain, ftands the town of Praya, confifting of about fifty or fixty huts, ftanding at a good diftance from each other, and form a large quadrangle, Nvhcrc the market is held : near the center is a pile of ftones, which "!| NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. which ferve as a crofs. Thefe huts (for I can call them no better) are built with ftones, without any cement, and are perhaps as poorly conftrufted, as the moft miferable out-houfe belonging to an Englifli farmer. They confift only of a ground-floor, which is generally divided into two, or at moft three rooms. Beds are a luxury not known in general here, the people flcep- ing on mats : indeed I faw one at the merchant's before-mentioned, but fcarcely a menial fervant in England would flcep in it. The natives are blacks, and generally fervants to the Portugueze, many of whom refide here. They profefs the Roman Catholic religion, of which they feem very tenacious. One day when I was at Praya, the people ware going to public worfliip, and, impelled by curiofity, I was polling to the chapel, in order to fee their method of faying mafs $ but the Commander of the Fort hap- pening to fee me, fent one of his foldiers to order me back. The Portugueze behave kindly to ftrangers; but, perhaps, this may proceed from interefted motives, as we went to their houfes to purchafe fruit, &c. A good woman at one of the houfes made me a mefs of boiled Indian wheat, mixed up with goat's milk, and fweetened with fugar, much like a good Englifli houfe wife's firmity : this flie prefTed me to partake of with fo much good-nature, that I could not refufe eating, and found it a very agreeable mefs. It might be imagined from the warmth of the climate, that the fe- males are naturally amorous; yet both the natives and Portugueze conftantly refifted every felicitation of that kind from our gentle- men, though they enforced their rhetoric with very tempting pre- fents: whether thefe conftant^ denials proceeded from a real love of chaftity, I lliall leave thee to determine. ■25 1785. Oaober. Mi D I judge •26 Oaober. 11 A VOYAGE TO THE I judge the foil to be muc^^ ' ' ■. urne with that of tropical iflanclr in general ; indeed, were it capable of improvement equal to that of England, the people arc too lazy to cultivate it. I have before mentioned the principal articles this place produces. Thefe, in general, require little or no labour, except the cultivation of In- dian wheat, and the manufefturing the fmall qu-mtity of fugar- cane which the ifland affords : from this taey make a kind of fpint, which is here called rum, but by failors aqua dente. This they make into punch, and render it palatable by infufms plenty of lemon, or lime-juice and fugar. This inand abounds with goats, and tlieir milk feems to be a confiderable part af tlie people's fuftenancej for I obferved in all the huts I went into, bowls filled with it, and generally a number of cheefes. 1 am the more apt to believe this, as I could fee no preparations for cooking vicluals in any of the houfes, not even fo much as a fire> though I vifitedmany of them at different times ot the day. The heat of the climate requires but little cloathing, and in thia refpea fuits the purfes of the inhabitants > for the few cloaths they have, the foldiers excepted, feem to be purchafed at fecond- hand, from (hips that touch here for refrelhment. 1 ought not fo include the women, however, (the>z>>x I had like to have faid) in this remark : they wear a loofe wrapper, of cotton manufadure. the produce of the ifland, generally flriped with blue, after various patterns, as their fancy fuggefts; this wrapper, with a light petti- coat and a cap, chiefly conftitute the womeii^s drefs. By way of ornament, their ears and neck are decorated with beads, or fome toy of trifling value, and from the neck a crofs is generally fufpend> cd. The Portugueze Look the pidure of ill-health j their coun- tenancea I' I'. •m North-west coast of America. tenances are wan, meagre, and fallow : whether or no this is pecu- liar to the people of that nation, or occafioned by the climate, I cannot fay: the natives, however, in general are healthy looking people. Their government I can fay nothing about, but I ihould ^uppofe it in fome meafure fimilar to that of Portugal. So much for St. Jago. Our time will not permit us to ftay longer than is necelTary to compleat our water, and let the people have a little recreation on fhore, which is very neceffary for the prefervation of their health : mod of this being already done, I cxpea every minute to hear «' AH hands up anchor a-hoy" vocife- rated by the Boatfwain, with all the noify bawl that a good pair of lungs can afford; fothat Ifhall finifli with the words of Hamlet's father, « Farewell — remember me I Thine ever, St. Jago, l ^* ^' »8tliOaober.f «r Odteber. I LETTER IX. Y HA VE before obferved, that I correfpond with thee as much X for my own amufement as thy information— 1 beg pardon — - I mear to fay the gratification of thy curiofity : fo that thou'art not to wonder at feeing my letters frequently dated at feaj for, in committmg our daily occurrences to paper, I am totally governed by good weather and opportunity. Indeed I know thee to be fo ready to make every kind allowance, that this preamble was fcarcely ^ ^ neceffary, "^IWW aS A VOYAGE TO THE ■'il;!l 1785. neceflary; I fhall therefore refume my narrative withour further November, ceremony. Having compleated every obje^ we had in view at St. Jago, and a favourable breeze fpringing up, we weighed anchor at ten o'clock in the morning of the 29th Odlober, after taking leave, with three hearty cheers, of our good friend Captain Clarke, whom we left at anchor. We alfo left the fliip belonging to Mr. Montgomery riding in the bay. The live flock we brought from the Ifle of Wight being nearly expended, we had purchafed feveral goats, tur- kies, and flieep here, in order to make our voyage more comfort- able, and to preferve us from the fcurvy. . I have already mentioned the great heat of the weather at St. Jago, and endeavoured, in fome meafure, to account for it. Thou mayeft eafdy imagine, that the nearer we approached the Equi-r no6lial Line, the weather grew more intenfely hot ; and this is greatly increafed by calms, which are very frequent in latitudes near the Line, whilfl a frefli breeze always renders the heat more tolerable. ilil On the 3d November, being in eight degrees North latitude, and the weather moft intenfely hot, our people were bufily em- ployed in fcrubbing and cleaning between decks, and every part of the veffel with care, and afterwards waflied it well with vinegar. This method was always ufed by the late Captain Cooke, in his long voyages, and he ever found it attended with the happieft efFe6ts, in regard to the prefervation of health. Such kind and humane attentions to the health of people under the care of any' Commander, muft certainly place his character, as a man and a NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 29 thrijlian, high in the eftimation of every perlbn of feeling and ,78. humanity. ^ November. Indeed I cannot help confidering this attention as a duty abfo- lutely incumbent on him ; for, if the mafter of a family on fliora confiders it his duty to take care of his fervants during ficknefs when they have it in their power to procure relief by various other methods, how much more does it behove the Captain of a fhin to beftow. every attention in hi? power on his fervants welfare? In Ae midft of the wide ocean, to whom can they feek for fuccour ? They have no kmd friend, no tender parent to apply to for relief ' No generous Public, whofe charity they might implore, and who rarely fad to afJift the helplefs in their diftrefs! Yet notwith- ftanding thefe powerful motives, there are. I am afraid, too many Captains who do not trouble thcmfelves about fuch (to them) tri vial matters, but trufl to chance for the health or ficknefs of their- people. " From the 4th to the ,2th of November, the weather was verv ^■anab le, fometimes it was clear, and nearly calm, and prefently It would change to ftrong fcpialls and heavy rain, attended with conftant thunder and lightning. I had omitted to mention, that on the 9th the (hip's company wereferved with peafe, at an allow- ance of half a pint per man, for three days in the week: this addition to our fait pork, made a very comfortable niefs. Bv the 13th we were in the latitude of 2 degrees North, and the weather grew more fettled and favourable : we had a frefh Eafterly breeze with a clear Iky, unattended with any fudden fqualls, ov xhund<^ -l;^^ng.Onthe.6t^^ It 1785. November. A VOYAGE TO THE It perhaps may be neceffary to inform thee, th^t the methocl of finding what latitude the fhip is m, is, to take an altitude of the Sun when he is in the meridian, which is always twelve o'clock at noon, and this altitude, after being wrought by an eafy procefa» gives the latitude. Sailors on croffing the Line, have a cuftom of plunging every perfon on board, who have never been to the Southward of it, over head and ears in a tub of water. This ceremony being but ill rclifhed by fome of our people, Captain Dixon promifed all hands a double allowance of grog if they wbuld defift : this was very willingly accepted, and harmony was foon reftoredt but alas 4 grog and good humour foon were at variance, and fome of the people grew fo quarrelfome and turbulent, that they were put in irons : this brought them to reafon in a fhort time, and they were fet at liberty on promife of better behaviour. I was exprefling my furprize and forrow to my meft-mates, that fodiflurbing a circumftance fhould happen^ but they laughed, and faid, that things of this fort were fo common at fea, that they were not worth taking tlie leaft notice of. On this I could not help refle6V.ing with Solomon, that " there is nothing new under the Sun." At two o'cloclc in the afternoon of the 21ft, vye faw a fail to the Eallwaid, but at too great a diftance to difcern what country (he belonged to. On the 24th, vinegar was ferved out to the fliip's <:ompany, which made our fait provifions more wholefome and agreeable : it likewife proved a very good ingredient to eat with filh, which we frequently caught, fuch as boncttas, albacours, tlolphins, 6cc. On the 25th, the people were ferved with what 2 flops NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. » our fiift fa,hng. vu. that they Ihould not be able to procure a fun ''"''"^'■ ^o cloath. w!,e„ ,h^, fto^fc „,, „„„ „„^_ ^ P;-"- %" cttt;:Xat:^;;:t^/:^"7r^^"" "~^^^ o^^-.- . ''^^ f very morning. This made a very comfortahlp addition to our viftual.! an,! ,„o. « , , ^"""oriaoje wa.^,-,reattre -itfilt: rrr"'^ »" "-■=• "^ By the 6th of Decembe. we were well out of the Tm, ■ u- ' in 26 deg. ,6 min. South latitude Th? u '^'"' ""'"S be agreeable and pleafant. Jhh frl ftldv Eat/I """ "'''" '" nine in the morning of the 7th the Kinl r '^="*^' '^;'«"«- At feeing a fail to the South W ft\ tuH fd 7^' m=d^a fignal for for us to difcern what -oZTl';:!^^^:: ^^ "^ -™S" iflL';!t;foTu".aKi;'d? 7^°'? '"-^'"-^ '^ ^^""»<''^ that phce. Th- ; ever! ""' ' *"' '™""-ri°" fro™ ] LETTER Kl T 1785. December. ^mmm A VOYAGE TO THE LETTER X. r-p^ HOUGH a fea life is in fome degree become familiar to JL me, yet the fight of land fills me with a temporary pleafure ; I fay temporary, becaufe it is foon Hopped by refle6ling, that fome years muft elapfe before I fliall have the heart-felt fatisfaaion of beholding my native country. I am afliamed to trouble thee with fuch trifling digrefllons ; but in future I will endeavour entirely to fupprefs them, and write nothing that concerns the paft, or future, but confine myfelf to the prefent time. On the I ith of December, being in 33 deg. 16 min. North lati- tude, we had a heavy gale of wind, which obliged us to clofe-reef our top-fails and main-fail : however, in a few hours the weather crrcw moderate. We have found the variation of the compafs to be ^ I deg. 16 min. Eafterly. The i6th, being moderate and fine, we had a great quantity of fpermaceti whales about the fliip, latitude 41 deg. South. On the 2ilt, we had a very heavy gale of wind, which obliged us to hand our top-fails, and reef our courfes : we alfo reeved preventer braces for the top-fr' yards, and preventer lalhings to fecure our boats : the main ana fore hatches were bat- tened dov^'n, and every precaution taken to keep the vefi'el fnug and dry. this in all parts to the Southward of the Line, is the longeft day': it would have been a matter of furprize for thee to have feen the Sun before four o'clock in the morning ; and I dare fay that there i NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. there are number-s in London who will never be perfuaded that the >7S5. Sun riics before four o'clock m December. December, mu?Wv'''l',^''' ''""S'"*^''^S- So«tl> latitude, the feahada very muddy d,rty appearance ; we faw a feal. and a great quantity of various kmds of filh playing about the Ihip. ^ ^ Early in the morning of the 24th. we had a heavy ftorm of fnow and fleet: rndeed, fincc the a, ft we had very li tie intermiffion uTiaftt?, : , "T" "'" '■^-"y--*-- Thisforel: oui laft goat died, being literally ftarved to death with cold thouel we had taken every precaution in our power to keep he all We telt her lofs very fenfibly for fome time, as llie had given mTlk rrn'iTdS'f mr °" '-- ''-' -^ «'y i^~ On the former part of the a5th we bad frefl, breezes, and prettv c ear weather ■ but .at four in the afternoon a heavy g le of wt d obhged us to hand our top.fa,ls and reef the courfej. Thi bif C urtmas-day. we celebrated it as well as our lituation o .H 2 foul, and more particularly as it is accounted by failors a^ea„: feftrval than even the .Sabbath-day, though their obfervance of .s not conhftent with this opinion, as they Knerallv II , . • nor y mirth, and tumultuou^ jollit'y. occaLl^r ' i*t;,r Te e r'";:,^''^","'^"""' "' "-->"■»« friendf and iweetnciits. Latitude 48 deg. ,4 min. South. wo;;::::': l: ude'w::.: :/;:r;or' '-' ■'"'' '-"" '"= were in (viz. 50 deg, 30 „vn. .South) being nearly 9f a ■•^^ili liH, H i r. t A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. nearly the fame climate as part of England j yet the weather here ■^''"""^'- is more like March than Midfummer. On the ift January, 1786, we had great numbers of feals and penguins, about us, and a great variety of birds, which plainly indicated that we were not far from land. At three o'clock ?n the morning of the 2d, wc faw land, the extremes of which bore from South Eaft by South to South by Weft, at about nine leagues diftance. At ten o'clock we founded in feventy-eight fathom water, over a fine fandy bottom, inter- mixed with black fpecks : the extremes of the land at noon bore from South Eaft to South Weft ; the weather thick and hazy with rain. During the afternoon we had light winds, inclining to calm. In the evening we founded, and had again fcventy-eight fathom water, with much the fome bottom as before. At eight in the morning of the 3d, we faw the land bearing Eaft by North ; and at ten, the extremes of the land in fight bore from South Eaft to South Weft by South, diftant from fhore nine or ten leagues : the water appeared very black and muddy. At eleven o'clock we faw a rock, bearing South Eaft, at about fcven leagues diftance, which had very much the appearance of a (liip under fail, and indeed we at firft took it for a vcliel. We have fince learnt, that this rock is called the Eddyftone, Our latitude at noon was 51 deg. 2 min. South j and the longitude 58 deg. 48 min. Weft. I mention the latitude moi-c frequently, that tliou maycft form an idea of our progrefs ; and alio, by that and the longitude, which I will mention in future at every opportunity, thou mayeft' nnd with eafe the very fpot of the globe that we are upon. During i NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. During the afternoon we had frefli breezes and cloudy weather, and, not willing to lofe fight of the land, we Hood in Ihorc, and tacked occafionally. At eight o'clock in the evening, the Wefter- moft land bore Weft South Weft, and the Eddyftone North-Eaft. Wc had frefli breezes, with thick hazy weather; at times a thick fog. In the forenoon of the 4th we faw two fmall iflands, bearing South by Eaft and South by Weft, with high land behind them At noon, the Weftermoft land in fight was about four leagues' and the Eaftermoft near eight leagues diftance, latitude 51 deg 10 mm. South. During the afternoon we ftood along fliore as we" judged Port Egmont (the harbour we intended to anchor in) not to be far off About midnight, being within three miles of the Weftermoft land, Captam Portlock madefignal to ftand off ftiore 1 have before obferved, that we had very long days 3 in fad, we had no night, and the weather being moderate, might juftly war rant our ftandnig near the land during the night time. At two o'clock in the morning of the 5th, we wore and made M. At three Captain Portlock fent his whale-boat with Mr Macleod. his Firft Mate, to found a-head, and look out for a har' hour. Mr. Macleod left a copy of the various fignals he was to make on board the Queen, as a guide for us, our veffei being a-head of the Kmg George. ^ At half paft feven Mr. M.deod fi-ed a mufquet, as a fignal for danger, which occahoned .: .. ftand off the land, and tac'k occa- fionally the better to obf.rv. , ue motions of the boat. Towards "Jne ocIocK, bang pretty near the place where Mr. Macleod made ^' the 3-5 1786. January. ^— — > 1 9 1-4 ^1 36 A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. the fignal for danger, our whale-boat was hoifted out, and fent January.^ a-head to found. About half part: nine Mr. Macleod hoifted a flag at the top of the high land, which was a fignal for a harbour : on this, both veflels flood in for the found, and Captain Portlock fired -a gun as a fignal for his boat to return. Mr. Macleod informed us, that he had feen a fmall reef of rocks, which occafioned him to fire the mufquet ; and that the harbour afforded an excellent place for watering. At eleven o'clock both fhips came to anchor in Port Egmont, in feventeen fathom water^ over a fandy bottom, I have endeavoured to mention every circumftance, however trivial ; and I hope fo flricl an attention to minutiae will not only pleafe thee, but in fome meafure atone for the defers that conti- nually occur in the courfe of my narration. Thou mayeft expe6l fome account of this place, 6cc. in my next. Thine, &c. W. B* Falkland'sIslands, 7' 7 th January. y LETTER XI. HAVING handed the fails, and put every thing to rights, we moored with the Iheam-anchor and tow-line j but the next day, (the 6th) finding the wind blow frelh, and a heavy fwell, we I took NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. took the ftream-anchor up, and moored with both bowers. The principal objeft we had in view, was to water the {\Vips ■ for this we were lituated very conveniently, as I have before 'obferved. We had alfo found during our cruize, that the Queen was notfuf. ficiently deep in the water^ fo that fome hands were employed in fetching ftones to put in the hold, by way of ballaft. Thefe em- ployments were fet about without delay, and both would have been compleated in three or four days at fartheft, had we not been frequently mterrupted by blowing fqually weather: however, by the 14th both thefe obje^s were entirely compleated, bef.des frelh ftowmg the hold. During^hi. time all the people had been on ftere to recreate themfeives, land air being reckoned exceeding iaiutary and wholfome for i^ulors. ^ On the 14th, the people were employed in fetting up the riggln. fore and aft, and other neceflary bufinefs. On the , 5th, an En/ hfli Hoop came to anchor in the harbour, and her boat going on board the King George, we le^nt that fhe belonged to a L com- manded by a Captain Hufley, called the United Ltes, but Brit^ property, which lay in Huiiey Harbour, States-Bay, Swan-Idand m company with a flup ft-om America. The United States was' .he property of Mrs. Hayley, relia of the late George Hayley E^o and filler to the celebrated Mr. Wilkes. ^' '' Thefe veflels had been at Falkland's IHands occafionlly for more than a year and had wintered in Hufley Harbour before m'en- tioned J fo that they were perfectly acquainted with the tide^ the Z!^' '""Ii •" '""'' '"''^ circumftancc neceflary for the ftfely 37 1786. January. ■1 During J8 1786. January. A VOYAGE TO THE During the time our neceflary bufincfs was carried on, both our Captains were employed in lurvcying the port, and various parts of tlie land. In one of thefe excurlions, they fell in with a birth for the fliips, greatly preferable to that we lay in, on the Weft fide of the bay > and as they propofed flaying here a few days longer, it was determined to take the veflels there : fo early in the morning of tlie 1 6th we unmoored, and at eight o'clock made fail : at ten we came to anchor in feven fathom water. \\'e loon found that our fituation was changed for the bell, being well Iheltered from the wind, and no fwell to incommode us. 'Tis moft probable that this was near the place where Captain Macbride lay in the year .i''66, when he wintered here, as we found on the adjacent Qiore the ruins of feveral houfcs, faid to be built by him, but deftroyed fmce by the Spaniards. From the 16th to the 19th, the people of both fliips were alter- nately on fliore, to recreate themfelves, land air (as 1 have already obferved) being very falutary, and wholfonie for people in our fituations : indeed this place affords little refrefhment of any other kind, as I fhall take notice by and bye. Havino- learnt from Mr. CofTin, Mafter of the floop, that there was a good paHage for us through the iflands, and he kindly undertaking to lead the way as our ])ilot, our Captains determined to get to fea the iirll opportunity, as the feafon was already too far advanced for us to expect a good paflagc round Cape Horn. Ac- cordingly we weighed anchor, and made fail early in the morning of the 19th of January. At eight o'clock, the flag-flafF on Kep- pel's Illand (the fame on which Mr. Macleod hoifted the fignal the morning we made Port Egmont) bore Eafl by South -, Sandy Bay, I South- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 39 South Eaft by South, and the VVcftermoft point of land, South- 1^86. Well:, at about four leagues dirtance. January. We came to anchor at half part eight in the evening, without any material occurrence, off the Eaft end of Carcafs Iftand, in twelve fathom water. In the morning of the 20th, we weighed and made fail, and came to anchor at noon in Weft-Point Harbour, in eight fathom water. On the 2 1 ft, in the morning, we again made fail. Mr. Coffin cautioned us to be on our guard, in rounding Weft-Point, as the wind would pour upon us from the high land like a torrent. The morning was fine and clear, and the wind moderates yet luckily we did not defpife his precaution, but had all hands ready to clue up the fails ; and well it was that we had, for before we got well round the Point, the wind poured down upon us like a hurricane, and continued to biow with amazing ijnpetuofity for near an hour, during which time we durft notujfhew a fmgle yard of canvas ; but as we got clear of the high land, the wind grew moderate. At one o'clock we faw the two ftiips before-men tioned, riding at anchor in Hufley Harbour j and at tJiree o'clock we came to anchor in States Bay, Swan llland, off Elephant Poin^ m feventeen fathom water, and about a mile from the American velfels. Before I conclude, let me give thee as good an account of tliefe Illa.jds as I am able, from what obfervations I have made durin- our ftay here. ** Thcfe lilands were firft difcovered by Sir Richard Hawkins in 1594' but Captain Strong probably called them Falkland's liland', or more. *"P> ■mvi 40 1786. January. .|i,i'.. r! ij I i 1; A VOYAGE TO THE more properly, Falkland's iQands, as there are a conficlerable num- ber (;f them. It fliould feem as if the Englilh propofed fettling a colony here, by Captain Macbride's (laying here a whole feafon, and ereding feveral houfcs : thefe, however, were deftroyed by the Spa- niards, who difpofleffcd us of the place in 1770. This atTairmadc a great noife in London, and occafioned much clamour amongft the politicians at that time : but I fliall fay no more on this head, as thou art much better verfed in the political hiftory of this place than myfelf; only jull obferve, that we need not wonder at the Spaniards envying us the poiTeffion of thefe illands, as their fituation commands the paflage to the Spanifli Set- tlements in the South Seas. Port Egmont, (viz. that part of it where we lafl: lay at anchor) is fituated in 51 deg. 12 min. South latitude, and 59 deg. 54 min. Weft longitude, and is a n.oft fpacious harbour, perhaps large enough for all the Ihips belonging to Great B'itain to ride at an- chor. How far thefe iflands extend, I cannot pretend to fay with any degree of certainty ; but I imagine more than one degree in lati- tude, and two degrees in longitude. The fituation of Port Egmont feems to be nearly central ; fo by that, and the former conjeaure, thou maycft form a pretty good idea of their extent. Thougli thefe illands are univerfally known by the name of Falkland's, yet many of them are called by difterent names, juft, I prefume, as the fancy of different cruifers have fuggefted : I juft men- NORTH-WEST COAST OP AMERICA. mention this ciicumflance to prevent thy furpri/l, on feeing fuch r-86 names as Swan Ifland, Keppel's Illand, 6cc. &c. ^ Ja/u!^. One would naturally fuppofe from the fituation, that the climate here . much the fame as that of England : this, however, feen far from hemg the cafe. Though this is nearly the height of Sum- mer here, yet the weather is frequently cold and wintert the the^ mometer ba..g never higher than 53 deg. The winds Lve gene-" rally been Weftcrly, with frequent fqualls and heavy rain. The foil feems of a light, free nature, and well calculated for meadow or parture land , indeed in many places it is no eafy mat- ter to tell what nature the foil is of, for the vegetation has grown and rotted and grown again, tUl great numbers of large hilS e formed, from the tops of which grow large blade! of grafs- hefe naturally mchnmg to each other, form a kind of arch! and ^7:!:rL:r''' ^^^ '-'' '--''-' ^-^^-^ ^^•^^• Near the ruins of the town are a number of fmall pieces of ground, mclofed wath turf, which, no doubt, were intended for gardens, as it might eafily be perceived that they had been in a cul ivated ftate. In one of them I found feveral forts of flowers, and fome fine horfe-reddiflu 'Tis fomething remarkable, that there grows not a tree, or any thing like it, on thefe iflands : our people, after much fearching, found fome brufh-wood, but fo fmall, that it would fcarcely ferve to make brooms for the (hip's ufe. There are few or no infers to be met with here, though Mr. Hogaii, Surgeon of the King George, who is a confiderable pro- ficient m Natural Hiftory, took infinite pains to procure fome ^ On 4r iJUl .^1 ^... \^>^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) ^v ^/ /. .sr \ M/.A z ^ ^ 1.0 I.I 11:25 ill u UUU 1.6 — 6" v <^ /y # ^> Pnotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 s A ■^ V \\ ^V^ ^ O^ ^v /i/.. i 42 1786. January, A VOYAGE TO THE On the beaches are great numbers of geek and ducks, but mucli fmaller, and of a different fpecies from our's : they are pretty tame and eafily run down. Our people were greatly elated on feeing them, imagming they fhould live luxurioufly during our ftay • but here they were grievoully difappointed, for both geefe and ducks eat exceedmgly rank and fifty, owing, no doubt, to their conftantly teedmg on marine produ61ions ; fo that they foon grew heartily tired of them as food, though the exercife of running them down was both agreeable and healthy. Befides thefe, here are various other kinds of the feathered tribe the prmcipal of which are the Port Egmont hen, (called the fkua- gull by Pennant) and the albatrofs. Pennant diftinguiflies the Ipecies found here by the name of the wandering albatrofs, though at what tmie of the year they migrate I cannot fay : however I am certani that this is the time of tiieir incubation, as I faw feveral hundreds of them fetting on their nefts, and great numbers of young fcarcely fledged. The Port Egmont hen is a very ravenous bird, fomethmg hke a hawk, only larger : they are veiy numerous here; indeed fo are many other kinds, though it is not in mv power to particularize them. I ftall, therefore, conclude this article with obferving. that the only bird we caught here, which eat without any rank fifhy tafte, is called by failors a feapie- this bird IS. not web-footed, but has claws much like our fowls, and fubfifts chiefly on worms, &c. feldom or never going far from tlie iea-iide. Our people frequently attempted to catch fifli, but were always difappointed, fo that we began to conclude thefe iflands were not blefled with that capital part of the creation , but Captain Hufley making us a prefent of Ibme fine mullet, convinced us of our mif- take. ■ fl NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. take It feems thefe are almoft the only kind of Mi found here and they often caught tliem in large quantities. On many of the beaches are large beds of nuifcles and iimputs, and various other marine produdions, fome of which ferveas food for the penguins geek &c. &c. Indeed there is no doubt but every one of them has' Its ufes as we are well alTured, that the Almighty Creator of the 'Jniverfe made nothmg in vain. • I have endeavoured to take fome notice of every thing that has come withm my obfervation , and thou muft attribute my not giving thee a better account of this place, not only to want of op- portunity, but to a much woife, viz. a want of ability. us?o"out ?of " f r'^If''^'' ^"' '^'^y ^^"^S - r^^dinefs for us to put to fea, fo that the firft fair wind carries us from this place, m order to double Cape Horn, that place fo much did d by many adventurers in the voyage of matiLony. and on whth numbers or them founder: however, it is to be hoped tliswU never be the fortune of thine, &c. Falkland's Islands, 7 .22J January. 5 W. B. 43 1786. January, LETTER |c: .;,v M 44 1786. January. w ■If!; A VOYAGE TO THE LETTER XIL EARLY in the morning of the a 3d January, we weighed anchor and made fail. At nine o'clock the North Weft end of New IHand bore South Weft by South, diftance five miles. Our latitude at noon was 51 deg. 35 min. South ; and longitude 60 deg. 54 min. Weft. During the afternoon and evening, the wea- ther was thick and hazy, with fmall drizzling rain. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the Weft end of Falkland's Iflands bore North Eaft, at ten leagues diftance : our latitude at noon 52 deg. 3 min. South. We kept ftanding to the Southward, it being our intention to get well clear of Cape Horn, that in cafe of contrary winds, we might double it with fafety. From the 24th to the 26th, we had moderate hazy weather, with North Wefterly winds : latitude on the 26th, ^^ ^^S- 39 mi". South. We here found the variation of the compafs to be 25 deg. to the Eaftward. At ten o'clock in tlie evening of the 26th, we faw Staten's Land, bearing South Eaft. During the night we had frequent fqualls, attended with lightnin« ig- At eight in the morning of the 27th, the extremes of Staten's Land bore from South a quarter Weft, to Weft half South, diftance from the fliore about five miles. Towards nine o'clock we faw a ripling a-head, which occafioned us to ftiorten fail, and bear up j but foon afterwards we found it was occafioned by the current, on which we again hauled to the Southward and made fail. The NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. « The North-Weft Me of Staten's Land k very mountainous and „86 appear, extremely barren, but I am informed the EaHdet '^^■ woody and tolerably level. In the evening, the extremes oh ' ' and bore from Weft North Weft to North by Weft at nine leagues d,ftance. From the .8th to the 30th. we'halhe'avy ^Te Eaft ; wS '"'"" "^"^"^ ■■ *^ -"" -""s fr- sou7h b; The 31ft and tothe 4thofFebruary, was more moderate. We now had made a good offing from Cape Horn, our latitude at noon on the 4.n bemg 60 deg. 14 min. South , and our longitude 67 d^. 30 mnr. Weft. Our courfe now changed to Nonh-Weft, our Captau,, w:n,mg to get ftiU further to the Weftward, that iV we mould uave Werterly winds, we might keep well elear rf the Co" tment. S.nce our leaving Falkland's Iflands. the weather has been very cold and fevere. with frequent ftorms of rain and ftee the thermometer generally at 44 deg. Indeed we are later in the feafon than could have been wilhed, yet this is the Summ Lfon m tins part of the world. During the greateft part of Februa^ we "dconftant and fevere gales of wind from the North ^nd Nor h-Wei t. w.th very heavy crofs feas, which retarded ou. p "' grefs exceedingly, our latitude on the 28th being 5a deg. ,4 mi" South i and our longitude 84 deg. 34 min. Weft ^ * I have often admired that emphatic defcription of perfons in a ftorm, receded in the ,07th Pfalm, but its^eauty now Ikes ' •' Ll'li'l'reftVar Vul'^'^'^T '"" """^ "'- " and hU - T '^ "'" ^^ "'^ ™''''S °f the Ln,vf -. andhrs wonders m the deep. For at his word, the fto™'; " wind 111 46 1786, March. 111::' A VOYAGE TO THE " wind arifeth, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They are " carried up to the Heaven, and down again to the deep. Their " foul melteth away becaufe of the trouble. They reel to and fro, " and ftagger like a drunken man, and are at their wit's end." I fliall make no apology for troubling thee with this pafTage from Sacred Writ, not only becaufe I know thou canfl: be ferious upon occafion, but as it defcribes the feelings of people in dillrefs at fea, better than a volume on the fubjedl. I forgot to mention, that on the 27th we found the gammoning of our bowfprit gone, on which we Ihortened fail, and got it fe- cured with a new one. The weather now grows more moderate, with frefh Wefterly breezes, fo that we proceed on our voyage a-pace. After I am a little recovered from the fatigue of the late tempeftuous weather, thou wilt again hear from thine, &c. At Sea, J 6tli March. 5 W. B. LETTER Xni. I OBSERVED to thee in the conclufion of my laft, that the weather grew moderate, and tolerably fine, and every thing fcemed now to promife a continuation of it. It being uncertain how NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. "^XZ^^ ptli -'^' " '''''-' ''^'-'^ ^^-' waff r /, , '^ ""P ' '^°'"P^"y to an allowance of water at ,„o quarts a man per day. befides an allowance for peafe sf.^;::=i'x-Li^:j;^::d-^^^ little out of our courfe-. ' ""' '^""' '""^ "^« very wee.pe«edlHe vv^uMl^r^^oStt rSe:i!^: t = ou d not fee her diftinftly enough to know what ou t; t cam hot and fultry ; the wkd from Eaft to North Eaft. ^ up°"Htl,f*:l;t:r""'' "'^^r ^^^ Sotupo„ deck, and fi.ed -e long flat p.eces of non. notmuch unhke a carpenter, plane iro," only 47 «|: ! 4S 17S6. May. A VOYAGE TO THE only narrower : they are held in great eftimation by the Indians, and as fuch we expeft them to be fnigularly ufeful in our future trade. On the 6th, the Carpenters were employed in making ports for guns, and fixtures for fwivels ; and on the loth we had two guns (four pounders) and eight fwivels fixed on the quarter-deck. On the 20th, being in i deg. North latitude, and the weather extremely fultry, our allowance of water was iiicrcafed to three quarts a man per day. The latter end of this month we caugnt a number of fliarks : thefc are reckoned very coarft, rank food, and they certainly are fb j but to us, who had been 16 long on fait pro- vifions, they were a prize, and by making a meis, which failors call chouder, of them, they eat very palatably. The weather was very hot and fultry, with frequent light airs, fometimes inclining to calm. r 1^1 From the ift to the 3d of May, we faw numbers of turtle, which gave us reafon to hope that we fhould fall in with a turtle ifland, efpecially as Captain Cook, in his laft voyage, fell in with one not many degrees from us j but in this we were difappointed. With all our endeavours, we only caught one j but Captain Portlock was more lucky, owing to his whale-boat being fixed on the fliip's quarter ; fo that when they faw any turtle, his people could launch the boat, and be after them in a minute ; by which means they caught from ten to fourteen per day, part of which was always fent on board us : fo that though turtle was a kind of luxury, yet we began to be pretty well fatiated with it : this refpite from fait provifions muft, however, have been of fingular fervice to botli fliips companies. On NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Ourobfervation at noon, on the 8th of May. gave ,7 deg. 4 min. North latitude J and ,29 deg. s7 min. Wefl longitude f in this fituation we looked for an Iliand called i,y the Spaniards Roco Par- t^da hut in vani J however, we flood to the Northward under an eafy fad, and kept a good look out, expecting foon to fall in with the group of iflands already mentioned. From the nth to the 14th, we lay tocvery night, and when we made lail m the morning, fpread at the diftance of eight or teii miles, ftanding Wefterly : it being probable that though the Spaniards might have been pretty correft in the latitude of thefe iHands, yet they might eafily be miftaken feveral degrees in their longitude : but our latitude on the ,5th, at noon, being 20 de^ 9 mm North and 140 deg. , min. Weft longitude, which is con-' fiderably to the Weftward of any iHand laid down by the Spania" we concluded, and with reafon, that there muft be fome grofs mif' take m their chart. ^ Hitherto the people in general on board the Queen had enjoyed .pretty good ftate of health, except Mr. Turner^ur Second Mate who latterly had been attacked by a complication of diforders , bu now the fcurvy began to make its appearance amongftus, many of w tl'r Th"^ n.ore or lefs. and one man fntireiy laid'up with It. Though every anti-fcorbutic on board was u fed with the greateft care and regularity, yet we found all would be inefFeftual without the amftance of frefl. air, frefh water, provifions ^1 ^on afpo^i^' '' ^^^ ^^"-"^^"^^^^ -''^ ^-^^^^'^ ^^-'-^ 49 1786. May. Seiner- mmm m m wmm 5« 1786. May. A VOYAGE TO THE Being already in our proper latitude, we kept Handing to tlie Weftward, with a fine leading breeze ; and at feven o'clock in the morning of the 24th, we faw Owhyhee, the principal of the Sand- wich Jflands, bearing Weft, diftance about fourteen leagues. At noon, the North-Eaft point bore North, at three leagues diftance. As it was well known that this illand aiiorded every thing we wanted in abundance, the fight of it put every perfon on board in frefli fpirits. After ftanding along tb** fliore two days, with light winds, frequently inclining to calm, we came to anchor on the Weft fide of the ifland, in Karakkakooa Bay, at one o'clock on the 26th, in eight fathom water, the Weft point of the Bay bearing Weft by North, and the South point. South half Weft, at about a mile diftant from fhore. In the afternoon we were furrounded by an innumerable quantity of canoes, and vaft numbers of both fexes, in the water ; many of thefe, no doubt, came to fee us througli curiofity, but numbers brought various commodities to fell, fuch as hogs, fweet potatoes, plantains, bread, fruit, &c. thefe we pur- chafed with toes, fifh-hooks, nails, and other articles of trifling value : the people bought fiftiing-lines, mats, and various other curiofities . Early in the morning of the 27th, we began to prepare for watering, intending to difpatch that vvitli all expedition ; but Captain Dixon going on boaid the King Geoige, was informed, to our very great difappointment, that tlie inhabitants were growing troublefome, and that they had already tabooed the watering place. This ceremony of tabooing is performed by their priefts, and is done by ftickinga number of fmall wands, tipt with a tuft of white hair, round any place they want to keep private, after which, no perfon prefumes to approach the place, and 1 believe the punifliment is death for an offence of this kind. We were afraid '«!' NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. afraid at firft, tluat this treatment might proceed from a remem- brance of the loflcs they fuftained after the melancholy death of Captam Cook, who was killed in this harbour; but that was not he cafe : the reafon they gave for this proceeding was, that all mZ I \ T^ '^''"'' '"^'^'^ "^ "^^' ^''^' ^ neighbouring ^Hand, they durit not, on any account, fufFer ftrangers to come on 5* 1786. May. One of our principal objcSs being thus fraftrated, our Captains are determined to leave this plaee as foon as poffible , mean while vv-e keep purchaHng hogs, fowls, vegetables. &c. in abundance i and I beheve every perlon on board has already began to feel the good efteas of freflt viduals. but fcarcely an'y „L morrlh',: Sandwich Islands, 1 28lh May. } W. B. LETTER XIV. T> EFORE 1 proceed with my narration, give me leave to AJ obfeive to thee, that the Sandwich Iflands were difcovered by the tee Captain Cook, in his laft Voyage to the Pacific Ocean Owhyhee, the principal, is the firft to the Southward and Eaftward • the reft in a direaion nearly North-Weft. The names of tl,; principals are^ Mowee, Moretoy, Ranai. Whahoo, Attoui. and I At s» 1786. June. A VOYAGE TO THE At eight o'clock in the evening of the 27th, we vveiglied and made fail, tacking occalion.'liy (lining the night, and the whole of the 28th, having li._,ht variable winds. Tlie people were employed in killing hogs, and faking them for the (hip's ufe. A number of canoes ftillkept following us with hogs, vegetables, i5cc. At neon, on the 29th, Karakkakooa bore North-Eaft by Eafl:, diftance feven or eight leagues ; and the high land of Mowee (the Illand we intended next to touch at) in fight. A ftrong breeze during the whole of the 30th, prevented our touching at Mowee. In the morning the Illand of Ranai bore North North-Weft, at fix kagues diftance j and at noon a high bluff" to the Weft ward bore North by Weft, diftance one league. We kept ftanding for Wha- hoo with a good Eafterly breeze. At eight in the morning of the 31ft, the North Eaft end of Moretoy bore North North Eaft, diftance about fix leagues. At noon we favv Whahoo ; the South Eaft part bore Weft South Weft, and the North Eaft part North Weft ; latitude 21 deg. 14 min. North, m i On the ift of June, atone in the afternoon, we came to anchor in a bay on the South fide of Whahoo, in eight and half fathom water, over a fandy bottom ; the extremes of the land bearing from Eaft South Eaft to Wefl by South, diftance from fhore near two miles. We had prefently a number of canoes along-fide, but hogs and vegetables were much fcarcer here than at Owhyhee. Early in the morning of the 2d, our Captains went on ftiore, in order to find a watering place, and procure accommodations for the lick : they foon met with good water, but the accefs to it v/as very NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. very difficult, occafioned by a reef of rocks which run almoft the length of the bay, .u a confiderable diftance front the (l.orc, and fo high, that ,t was fcarcely practicable, and by no means fafe for a laadcd boat to venture over : this eircumtonce ma.ic us dcfpair of tZl 7>'' fT' "' ',"• '"•■""'' •'"' ^'"'""■"' '^'^^ t^'kinS notice hat ntoft of the people m the canoes had fcveral gourds, or cala- lahcsful of water, he direScd us to purchafc them, which wo eah.y d.d for nails, buttons, and fuch like trifles : inclee.l fo fond were they of this tiaffic. that every other objeft was totally aban- doned, and the whole Ifland, at Icaft that part which lay next us were employed m bringing watc. . for a fmall, or a mid.lling. r,«d calabafl, eonta.nmg perhaps two or three gallons, we gave a fmall md i and for larger ones in proportion. Thus, in this very fin- gular, and I may venture to fay, unprecedented manner, were both %,s compleatly fupphed with water, not only at a trivi I expenc bu, alfo favntg our boats, calks, and tackling, and preferving , .^ people from wet, and the danger of catching cold.' During e ,me we were takmg in water, &c. otn- people were buhed in ii,. tn g up the ,-,ggmg fore and aft, fcraping the fliip's fi.les and other neeellary en.ployments. The Surgeon took tl e ,i peo them T: T ''■ ?'"''"« '"^ '^"'' ""■ -°""' ^^ "f '•^■"^" - them , but the weather was veiy fultry, and the inhabitants CH,wded about them in fuch numbers, that they were oblige it come on board, fatigued inflead of being refreflted by their j!tnlt One of our grand ol>ieas w.as now compleated. and our fick peo- ple m fome meafure recovered ; but wc wiflied. if portible, to pro- cure a farther fapply of hogs, vegetables, &c. and Whaho^ afford- .ng but httleof e,ther, it was determined to make Attoui w^rdl exped.t.o„, tl>at tlland abounding with every thing we wiihed fo is 1786. June. At p , ii 1 1 'I,' 1,., i4 JuilL'. A VOYAGE TO THE At fcven in the morning of the 5th, we weighed anchor, and ilood for Attoui, with moderate hreezes and cloudy weather. At noon the South point of Whahoo bore Eaft South EaO, diftance lix leagues; latitude 21 deg. 15 min. North. In the morning of the 6th, we faw Attoui ; and at noon, the high point upon the South-Eaft end bore Weft North Weft, at nine leagues diftance, Whahoo ftill in fight. By three o'clock in tlie afternoon of the 7th, we were a-breaft of Wymoa-Bay, Attoui, the place we propofed coming to anchor in; but the wind blowing pretty ftrong from the South Eaft, and the bay quite open to that quarter. Captain Portlock declined coming to here, and propofed ftanding for Oneehow, which at four o'clock bore Weft North Weft, at about five leagues diftance. During the n'ght, we tacked occafionally ; and at ten in the morning of the 8th, 'came to an anchor in Yam Bay, Oneehow, in fevcn- teen i^ithom water, over a fandy bottom. The North point of the bay bore North North Eaft, and the South j^oint South by Eaft, at one and a half mile diftance from ftiore. This Kland pro- duces great quantities of excellent yams, and the inhabitants brought us a plentiful fupply, which we purchafed for nails, and fuch tike trifles : indeed this place produces no great ])lenty of any thino- befides, there being but few inhabitants here, compared with Attoui, Whahoo, &c. &c. Our fick were taken on ftiore here, and found great benefit from the land air, as they could walk about at their eafe, without being molefted by the inhabitants. The i)rin- cipal Chief at this ifland is called Abbenooe ; he feems a very aftive, intelligent perfon, and Captain Portlock making him fome trifling prefents, he was wholly attached to us ; fo that our fick were much better accommodated on his account. Wc got very few hogs 'i- f» ^. w § s- k •r bs h. "^ ^ ^f '^ ^ m. I ') i^i » I" \"' ! > .t^ .tf li IB' % iawj: m ^■l-* ?* »• ■U.4 ^^ ttf n ^f 1 ■ ' ■■ {'■ 1 I'l •1 I ^ # i| ^^^1 1 ^M. iMn I f . ■M NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. asTul-T T' *""' ""' '''""^ '''™S''' ^"•o'" Attoui: however cution of our vovape hut o-^*- ^^^ r r pioie- vuydgi., out get to lea as foon as r>nfflKi« t-u ^ft depend on . W con^inuaHon Je::.!^:^^^;: Sandwich Islan I2th JuiJC, DS. I W.B. S5 . l\ h "I i^^- ' 3> LETTER XV. T'!v?,,Tr" '''' ^^ "■' P'"'^ ^™'" "•>'* 'h- i^ dated .hat X we at laft are arrived at the bufy ftene of afflnn j haps thou wilt infer, at the fummit of T V '■ "'^ ^'- cxpeaations, but ha;e a 1 t e paZ L „ '"odT :*«■ ,-" wilt perceive, that " all i. not gold uS gTttS!" ' "' """' I informed thee at the conclufion of my laft that w. ting ready for fea with all expedition ouTJ^nV >, '' ^''- Jiably fixed on the American'coaftL t^ete ^C t'ZTT Havmg procured as many hogs as our time wou per nit to T, with an excellent ftockof yams, we weighedTnc 1 T ' ^' '' June, at ten in the forenoon and made f il ft '' ' ^''^ "^ WelJ, with moderate breezes?:^ fi,t wlen"' " *^ ^'°''''- n><^e\L;;!;::ti„rth'^eot"r"V''™''"'"'-^"''"''M-i.ap, ac.ount ot them at piefent, as in that eafc I Ihall fJ * ' ;!•? >}• hV \k4'* 3^\ A VOYAGE TO THE ill 1786. fliall be able to defcribe them more particularly than J now have it J^J'. ^ m iTjy power to do. No very material occurrence happened during the greateft part of our paffage from the Iflands to Cook's River: however, as thou ait fond of particulars, though ever To trifling, I will endeavour to oblige thee in that refpeft. On the 15th, being well clear of the land, we changed our courfe to North and North by Eaft, and fj-om that to the 2 2d, had mode- rate breezes, with fine weather. Fiom the 23d to the 28th, frequent fVrong breezes with rairtf the wind veering from South Weft to North Weft, but more fre- quently fmce the trade winds left us, which, they did about the latitude 26 deg. North. From the 29th of June to the ift of July, we had light variable winds, with thick fogs, and drizling rain ; latitude on the 30th of June 40. deg. 30 min. North ; longitude 151 deg. 42 min. Weft, On the 2d of July, the water changing its colour, and a number of feals being feen playing about us (one of which was ftruck and got on board the King George) we founded with a line of 120 fathom, but got no bottom. On the 3d, we faw a piece of wood floating on the water, with a number of birds on it : we had fre- quent gales from the North Weft, with rain. On the 4th, being in 45 deg. 2 min. North latitude, and 150 deg. 10 min. Weft longitude, we found a ftrong current fetting to the South Weft. From, the 5th to the nth, we had variable winds from South Eaft to South Weft, fometimes ftrong breezes, with foggy weather 2 and NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA, and much rah,. On the ,oth, our obftmtion at noon gave rr We frequently faw great quantities of fea-weed calleH hv r.M fea leek, and a fpecies of birds .uch refe:b"p?^^^^^^^ The I ith, m the evening, the moon was totally S:liDfed Zl ^' venicVhth r,f,:t; c:rr T""r- - '-- ^«r« u *u r ^ "eaviiy, as they anfwered everv niir pofe both of potatoes and bread. We freminnH , n J- ^ min. Weft. ^ " ^'""' ' '""S""''' '48 deg. 34 On the ,5th the colour of the water altering very much the K,ng George frequently founded with 90 to , .0 fathom hfe' bu found no bottom. Latitude at noon, 57 deg. 4 mi.,. NortLTlon gitude 149 deg. 22 mm. Weft. On the 1 6th, we had a number of ouffin^ m,iio r other birds about us • lea-leeks .n f ^r ' ^'^"P^^'^^ts, and pamngus: on this^; tmfd fteT:^^^^^ with :2o fathom line, but got no bo^m Our^bl^^^^^^^^^^^ noon gave 58 deg. 34 min. North latitude ; and ouflonZde was iji degrees 4 minutes Weft. At fix in the .Zr rounded with ss fathom line, over ^^l^XuTr^kZ fand, intermixed with a kind of black fhells. At Len o dol bemg then ftanding nearly North, we faw the land Hur S joy, bearing North Weft by Weft, at about eight leagues ^^0^ " and 57 1786. July t .T^ '■•■ !!f ^fl ^& ' it 58 1786. July. liif A VOYAGE TO THE and which We judged to be near Cook's River. During the evening, we had a number of whales playing about the fliip. I forgot to obferve before, that our original deftiriation was firft to King George's Sound : but as we were confiderably later in tlie feafon than we once expcded to be, our Captains judged it moft prudent to make Cook's River firft, and ftand along the coaft to the Southward, as the feafon advanced. The wind being right againft us, we phed to windward during the 17th and i8th, when we found the land feen on the evening of the 16th, to be a group of iflands, called by Captain Cook the. Barren Idands, and fituated at the entrance of Cook's River. At four in the afternoon of the i8th, we faw the Ifland St. Ilermogenes, bearing from South South Weft to Weft, at three leagues diftance. The whales near the land were fo numerous, that their blowing refembled a large reef of rocks. At eleven o'clock in tiie forenoon of the 19th, we made the en- trance of Cook's River, leaving the Barren Illes to the Southward and Eaftward. Both wind and tide being now in our favour, we kept ftanding along the Eaftern fliore, intending, if polTible, to make? Anchor Point before we let go our anchor; but at feven in the afternoon we were furprized with the report of a gun, which proceeded from a bay nearly a-breaft of us, at about four miles diftance. Captain Portlock immediately fired a gun, by way of anfwering this lignal, and there being every appearance of a good harbour, he determined to ftand in, and come to anchor, in order that we might know what nation had got the ftart of us. Various were our conjeclures on this head ; fome thinking they might poflibly -be our own countrymen j others, that they vvei-e French, *»^ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. French ; and indeed this latter conjeaure had a good deal of weight with us, as we had heard of two French fliips fitting out for this coart. at the time we left England. However, all our furmifes were foon changed into certainty, for as we were ftanding into the bay with a light breeze, a boat came from the fhore to the King George, and the people proved to be Ruffians. At eight o'clock, being well into the bay, we came to anchor in thirty.five fathom water, Point Bede bearing Eaft North Eaft at three miles diftance ; and Mount St. Auguftine South Weft 'by- Weft. ^ Soon after our anchor was gone, four or five canoes, with a fingle perfon m each, came along-fide us. We were fo elated with this promifing appearance, that an aflbrtment of our various articles of trade was immediately got to hand, and abundance of furs were already on board, in our imagination : but thefe pleafing ideas foon vanifhed, for we foon found that thefe people belonged to the Ruffians. 59 1786. Though our expeaations of finding inhabitants here were dif- appointed, yet as the place was found very convenient for procuring a fupply of wood and water, every neceflary preparation was made tor that purpofe, and parties fent on fliore in the morning of the 20th, to cut wood and fill water : in the mea.i time, our Captains went in the King George's whale-boat to the Ruffian Faftory, in order to pick up what intelligence they could, refpeding their bufinefs on this coaft. It feems the Ruffians had no fixed fettlement here, and, in fhort no other refidence than a mere temporary one, which they had ^^ 2 made « ? " ''' ' I^F IP ■ f; ' ' '?' f!' ': 60 A VOYAGE TO THE made by hauling their boats on fliore, and laying them on their beam-ends, with ikins drawn fore and aft, to flielter them from the inclemency of the weather. All that could be learnt from them was, that they came in a floop from Onalalka, and that the people we had feen in the canoes were Codiac Indians, which they had brought with them, the better to facilitate their traffic with the inhabitants of Cook's River, and the adjacent country j but not- withftanding this, they had frequently quarellcd and fovight with the natives, and were at prefent on fuch bad terms with them, that they never went to fleep without their arms ready loaded by their fide. However, the accounts we got feldom agreed, and gave us but an indifferent idea of their proceedings, though this might arife, in a great meafure, from our having but a very imperfect knowledge of the Ruffian language : thus much we were pretty certain of, that they had met with very few, if any Ikins, though , they had got nankeens, and Perfian filks to traffic with. The watering place here is fo very convenient, that we com- pleated our water in one day, viz. the 21ft : from that to the 26th, the people were employed in cutting wood, and recreating them-- felves on fhore. On the 24th, our Captains virent to furvey the bay, and land- ing on the South Eaft point, they found a vein of coals, fome of. which were brought on board. The . .vy. f'^jm this circumftance, , obtained the name of Coal Harbo' .! Our people frequently tried to catch fifli with a hook and line,, but to no purpofe : however, Captain Portlock having a feine on , board, it was equently hauled with fuccefs, and large quantities of fine falmon cauglit, which were generally divided between. the lliips. The 'A NO:!-r!T. WEST COAST OF AMERICA. nenT!^ TV *"'"' '" '"'^ ">»""'^'inous : ,hc hills rtoping down Birch, alJ.,, ana various other trees and Ihiubs, whilft the more d.fta„t mountams, whofe lofty futnmits outreach the o,^ ° e o> a countt ? ""' " '' """-P'^y farther defcriptioi^ of a country, which as yet I am fo little acquainted with • let h fuffice for thee at prefent to know, that though this is the latt end of July, the weather is in general cold, damp, and difarjate w.th frequent mowers of fnow or fleet, and th'e furr.uXp™- Cook's River, r 25th July. j. W. B. 6t 1786. Jt'ly. LETTER XVL. TJAVING compleated our water, and got on board a fuffi Xi cient quantity of wood for prefent ufe, we weigh d ancht early ^n the morning of the 26th, and flood out for the llln as o.jr Captains knew we fhould find inhabitant the JT Northward, and there was not the leaft doubt of "eel! j^^^ ui wherever we could find people. The tide in the r ve "is ^ ' ne^ mt^T"' •'' '"^ '^"^ '"^^^ P^^ h-^^ ^« *^-t there Zas a necemty of coming to anchor every tide unlefs ^ma.A u ^^ f^^ourable breeze : this, however, L LkTd ^^^^^^^^ : ^'f er of httle confcquence. as we expeded fuch i^enty^of traffiTuo the nver that our frequent anchoring would I Ji^^J i^ry i but in this we were difapppinted. . ^ li Durin ^1 iii m 6t 1786. June. i'i I '' ! i 'I -■l:\[ 1; i. A VOYAGE TO T II E During the 26th and 27th, we kept {landing up the 'river with variable winds, and moderate wtather : no inhabitants came near lis, nor any particular occurrence happened. At noon on the 27th, tlie Burning Mountain bore South- Weft by Weft. A confiderablc fmoke ilTued from its I'ummit, which is very lofty, but we faw no fiery eruption ; nor did I find, on enquiry of Captain Dixon, that they ever faw any greater appearance of a volcano from this moun- tain, during their cruize up this river, their laft Voyage, at which time it was difcovered. At thre€ o'clock in the afternoon of the 28th, wc came to anchor in eleven f.^thom water, over a fandy bottom, the adjacent coaft to the Weftward about three miles diftance, tolerably level, and likely, in the opinion of our Captains, to produce Furs. In the evening, a fmgle canoe, with one man in her, came along-fide us, but brought nothing, except a little dried falmon, which we bought for a few beads, with which he feemed perfedlly fatisfied. 'Tis moft probable this man came purpofely to reconnoitre us, and learn our intentions j for when he underftood that we came to trade peace- ably, and was fhewn various articles we had to traffic with, he was very well pleafed, and gave us to underftand that the people (point- ing the fhore) would bring us plenty of fkins by the next day's fun. Early in the morning of the 29th, we had feveral canoes along-fide us; fome fo fniall, that they hold only one or two men, and others with from ten to fourteen people in them : they brought us fkins of various forts, fuch as land and fca otters, bears, racoons, marmots, &c. &;c. for which they took toes apd blue beads, but the toes are held in the greateft eftimation, a mid- dling fized toe fetching the beft otter Ikin they had got. During the greateft part of the day, we traded with pretty good fuc- cefs, the inhabitarits behaving in a quiet, orderly manner, and w« ji^ttfl^ x $. g m *' 'KiL^.', *■ •t Wf Ik If 't ■ ,l-. # NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. we kept up this friendly intercourfe by every method in our power, being perfeffly convinced, that a kind and mild treat Z:Z,^' '""'' •"''"' of procuring what we wanted from Towards evening, the wind blowing freft, no canoes ventured to come near us , but the weather proving moderate on the oh a number of fmall canoes, and two large ones, came alongS' from whom we purchafed every thing they had worth picking up _ By our obfervation to-day at noon, the place where we now lav .s.n6o deg.48 min. North latitude, and .j.deg. „ mir Weft ongitude. From this to the 3d of Auguft, the wefther w ™T r te and fine : our friends kept bringing us ikins of variL "inds but gave us to underftand, that their own were all fold, and t"™ ' hey were obhged to trade with tribes in diftant parts of he col try, m order to fupply us. They alfo brought us great 2n,Tf excellem freflt falmon, which' we Lughtvery^hpfSfiLl bead for a large filh , indeed they were fo 'pl.ntif;,' ,h"f at "1 .me .f we refufed to purchafe. they would throw the fift L boa,T fooner than be at the pains ,0 take them back. T^,e fall ' come mto the river i„ innumerable Ihoals, at this feafon of .he year, and are caught by the natives in wears, with the greateft eafe , they are fmoaked and dried in their huts, and mafe .y confiderab e par. of their food during the Winter. What a f elh mftance th.s of the goodnefs of Divine Providence towards ht ' creatures How bouutifnlly he hath provided for fefe plo wretches, ,n th.s ba.re„ and inhofpitable part o' ,he world Lrel- after tlus, no one can a.k with the difcontented Ifraelites " cl' God fpread a table in the wilde.nefs !" ' ^"^ ■ On mi k SI 4l: M 1786. A VOYAGE TO THE Onthe 4th of Auguft, wehad a ftrong breeze from the South South Eaft, which prevented any canoes coming near us; but the weather, on the 5th, being pretty moderate, feveral canoes came along-fide, but the people had very few fkins, and they gave us to underftand, that the country was pretty well drained. We were moored with both bowers, but this morning we took up the bell, in order to be ready for fea, when Captain Portlock (hould make the iignal. In the morning of the 6th, we had ftrong breezes from the South South Wed:, with rain, which continued till noon on the 7th, when, the weather turned moderate. In the afternoon, Captain Portlock came on board us, and propofed weighing anchor at four o'clock the next morning. Accordingly we weighed, and were making fail, when Captain Portlock fent his Third Mate on board us, with .a meflage, intimating, that as the weather promifed very unfa- vourably, we had much better flay where we lay, than run the rifque of getting a bad fituation in a gale of wind ; accordingly, we again let go our anchor, and foon found his fuggeftion a good one, for in the evening there came on a very heavy gale of wind, which continued the greatefl part of the night. We again moored Ihip, with the beft bower ; but in the morning of the 9th, the weather growing moderate, we hove it up again, in order to be ready for failing with the firft fair wind. For feveral days paft, but few canoes had been near us, and thefe brought us nothing but old tat- tered pieces, the remnants of dirty Ikins which they had wore to defend themfelves from the inclemency of the weather : indeed, for fome time paft, what good Ikins they brought were cut into ftrips, probably with a view to obtain better piices ; but this practice we difcountenanced as much as poffible. Before NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Before I proceed farther. let me endeavour to give thee fome Idea of the country near the place we now lay j and furely a pro- Ipedl more dreary and uncomfortable can fcarcely be conceived, ^an that which prefented itfelf to our view to the North Weft! The land, nideed clofe by the fea-fide, is tolerably level, affords a few pnies which, together with flirubs and underwoods, inter- T,' r .^"^^''^'' '"'^^ thelandfcape not altogether difagree- able; but the adjacent mountains, whofe rugged tops far outreach the clouds, abfolutely beggar all defcription: covered with eternal fnow, except where the fierce North wind blows it from their craggy fummits, they entirely chill the blood of the beholder, and tto prodigious extent and flupendous precipices, render them equally inacceffible to man or beaft. I had forgot, that in my laft I prl mifed to attempt no more defcriptions of the country at preLt but the profpea jufl mentioned had fomething in it ? ^J dreadful, that I could not avoid faying a few words refpefting it and I know thou wilt readily forgive any little inadvertenciel of J ,. i:, "' ?? T^^ "^'^ ''' '° ""^"^^ ^"^ entcrtain.-I wim I very loon. Adieu. Thine, &c. Cook's River lotli Auguft, !R, ) W. B. 6$ 1786. Ayguft. LETTER $6 A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. Auguft. m LETTER XVII. I OBSERVED in my laft, that we held ourfelves in readinefs to fail with the firft fair wind i and at five o'clock in the morn- ing of the loth of Auguft, we weighed and made fail with mode- rate breezes and fine weather. At eight o'clock, finding the tide fet us ftrongly in for the land, and veiy near a long ridge of fand to the Southward, we let go an anchor in ten fathom water, over a ftony bottom ; an ifland to the Southward at little more than a mile's diftance. At five in the afternoon, we weighed and made fail, but the breeze not enabling us to flem the tide, at nine we were obliged to come to an anchor in twelve fathom water, over a rocky bottom j the North Weft end of the fmail ifland to the Southward, bearing Weft North Weft, diftance off fliore to the Northward five miles ; the weather moderate and fine. At five in the morning of the 1 itli, we weighed anchor, and kept ftanding down the river. At eight o'clock we perceived two Ruffian boats, with eighteen men in each, fleering for the ifland to the Southward. They, no doubt, were the fame people we faw in corning up the river. It feems to be their plan to fub- jugate the poor Indians, and afterwards to exact what flcins they can, by way of tribute; but the people are difperfed in fo many different parts, that this fcheme can furely never anlwer their pur- pofe. At eleven o'clock we came to in nineteen fathom water. Anchor Point bearing South by Eaft, diftance from fliore four miles. Our obfcrvation at noon gave 6q deg. 9 min. North lati- tude. . NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 67 tude. Having but light breezes, we were obliged to wait for the »786. tide in ftanding down the river. Auguft. At noon on the 12th, Cape Bedc bore Eaft South Eaft and Coal Harbour Eaft by South. At two o'clock we came to in thir- ty-nine fathom water, the barren Iflands bearing South South Eaft ; the Burnmg Mountain Weft North Weft • Mount St Auguftine South Weft ; and Coal Harbour Eaft. Our obfervation gave 59 deg. 28 min. North latitude^ and 151 deg. Weft longitude. The weather was moderate and fine, and we had great reafon to hope that the next tide, with a tolerable breeze, would carry us clear of the river. ^ In regard to the extent of this river, I cannot fpeak with any degree of certamty ; but we know that it reaches confiderably far- ther to the Northward than where we lay at anchor. With refpea to Its breadth, it is feldom more than twenty miles over. The inhabitants feem not to have fixed on any particular foot for their refidence, but are fcattered about here and there, as beft iuits their convenience or inclination. 'Tis moft probable they are divided into clans or tribes, as in every large canoe we faw there was at leaft one perfon of fuperior authority to the reft, who not only dircaed their traffic, but kept them in a proper degree of fubordination. In their manners they fcem harmlefs and inoff-en- live; but this might probably be occafioned by the different treat ment they met with from us, to what the Ruffians had ufed them to. The weapons we faw are bows and arrows, and fpears • thefe are veiy ufeful in hunting, as well as fighting; the fleffi of the various beafts they kill ferving them for food, as their Ikins do for " ~ cloath* 68 1786. AuguO. i Pit ?J ' A VOYAGE TO THE cloathlng. One would reafonably fuppofe that the fkins of large- beafts, as bears, wolves, &c. would be held in the greateft eftima- tion as doaths bv thefe people : this, however, is not the cafe, the greater part wearing cloaks made of marmot-fkins, very neatly fewed together, one cloak containing perhaps more than one hun- dred Ikins : it is moll likely that their women's time is principally taken up in employments like thefe. Befides the fea-otter, here are bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, marmots, or field-mice, mufquafli,. ermine, &;c. &c. but the marmot and fox feem to be in the greatelt plenty. Tlie trade thefe people are fondeft of for their fkins, is toes, and light blue beads,, fcarcely any other fort (though we. had. a very great variety) being taken the leall notice of. In their perfons, thefe people are of a middle fize, and well pro- portioned j their features appear regular, but their faces are fa bedaubed with dirt and filth, that it is impoffible to fay what fort of complexion they have. That perfon feems to be reckoned the greateft beau amongft them, whofe face is one entire piece of fmut and greafe, and his hair well daubed with the fame compofition. Their nofe and ears are ornamented with beads, or teeth, if they cannot procure any thing elfe : they have likewife a long flit cut in the under lip, parallel with the mouth, which is ornamented much ia the fame manner with the nofe and ears ; but tliis I could ob- fcrve was always in proportion to the perfon's wealth. We faw only one woman, and the people with her behaved with great civility, and attended her with great refpecl : her face, contrary to tlie general cuftom, was tolerably clean, and her complexion and features far from dlfagreeable : indeed I have often feen much worfe-looking women in England. Their fmall canoes are fo con- ftru6lcd, as to hold but one, or at moft two perfons j and both thefe and the large ones are covered with fkins. It polTibly may be . NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA, be in my power, before the conclufion of our Voyage, to sive thee .786 :r : ~ tr: s 2 rsSr -- ^ about two leagues diftance from the fliore At noL ^7.1 u fl>°e:'Ztr:.ro„';7/,f/ii^' -''r the weather grew doudy'a'nd hazy At T , "/ "^ '""""'"' ftood to the North Weft bu hL ° ''""'' *' •"''^''' ''"'» a.ea in regard to I^^X^^^lZ^n ^' r 'T we again tacked, and ft Joff more:m twdte o'cIoT ' '' ^'''" North North wZV:,"^:^^''''^^^^ ^^ bearing tVont. bottom wrth ,03 fathom line. mudTnd cla" ' "' '"""' % Light <7o 1786. Awguft. A VOYAGE TO THE Light airs and hazy on the 16th. Wc ftill kept frandlng along the Ihore, at about two leagues diitance ; the land bearing from Weft South Weft to North. On the 17th, we ftill had light baf- fling winds, and cloudy weather. Having had no meridian alti- tude fince the 14th, we could not be exadly certain as to our fituation, but concluded the land which we now faw to the North Eaft to be Montague Ifland. It being nearly calm, and our found- ings greatly leftened, we came to anchor at three o'clock, in forty- three fathom water, over a fandy bottom j diftance from ftiore about three miles. I fliould obferve, that for fome days paft our foundings had varied from one hundred and twenty to twenty eight fathom water, generally over a muddy bottom. An ifland to the Northward bore from North Eaft by Eaft to North North Eaft. Another point of land due North, at flx miles diftance. Whilft we lay at anchor, many of our people got out their fifli- ing-lines, thinking we lay on a cod-bank ; they caught fome fcul- pins, and a few halibut, but were difappointed in their expe6la- tions of catching cod. The weather continued thick and foggy, but at fix o'clock in the afternoon of the i8th, a breeze fpringing up from the South Weft by Weft, we weighed anchor, and ftood in for the fhore. At ten o'clock, we founded with forty-five fathojii fine, over a bottom of fand mixed with fliellsj at twelve, we had no bottom with eighty fathom line. The early part of the morning of the 19th was fo foggy, that we loft fight of land, but at eight o'clock we faw land bearing North Eaft by North. We kept plying to windward, in order to make, if pofiible, the South Weft paflage into Prince William's Sound, which, at four in the afternoon, bore North Eaft by North ; the I • Eaftermoft ii'r ; NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Eaftermoft point of land in fight Eaft by North , Foot Tfl.nd. from North by La(t to Weft North Weft , Leg Ifiand, Weft, to Nouh Weft by North , the Continent South Weft. The wind blew fiefh from the North Eaft, and a heavy fwell fetting to the Weft- ward we gamed little or nothing. At eight o'clock in the even ing the South Weft Point of Montague Ifiand bore Eaft No h Eaft, at four miles diftance. The wind being variable during the night, we tacked occafionally. At ten o'clock we had foundings in torty fathom water, over a fandy bottom. At eight in the morning of the 20th, the land in fight bore withal /^r'.^f to North half Weft, we had no b tlm 3 h no bLt r ' fT ''" "^ '^P^ P^^-S to windward, bu" Noith F .^ f '^? '" the preceding days, owing to frefi. Noith Eafterly winds, and a current fetting to the Weftward. The former part of the 21ft was hazy, with rain. Atfour in the afternoon we had great hopes of making a bay near the wXd for entrance being in feventeen fathom water, and within a mt ^.d half of the land . but we found a ftrong c'urrent fet s odj to leeward, in addition to the fwell from the Eaftward. In thl evening, and during the night, we had ftrong North Eaftel bieezes, with much rain ; and the former part of the ..d was tl kk and rainy, but the wind more moderate. We had a tolerable ob- fervation at noon, which gave 59 deg. 15 min. North latitude being the only one we could get for ten days paft. ' During the afternoon, and the whole of the 23d, the weather was thick and hazy, with frefi. variable brcezcs,\ ougi c^W from the North Eaft, and no land in fight. ^ 7' 1786. Auguft. k ' ^)il; 6 /'ill Hi *" 1 At 4 7* 1786. Aiigiifl. A VOYAGE TO THE At four o'clock in the morning of the 24th, the wind veered ta the South Eall, on which we Itood right in for the land, which we faw at three in the afternoon, bearing from North by Eaft to Weft by North, at ten miles diftance. We had foundings in feventy fathom water, over a nmddy bottom. At eight in the evening, the wind changed to the North Eaft again, and we ftood off the land during the night, it being veiy uncertain how the currents fet. I fliall refume the fubjecl very fliortly. Thine, &c. W. B. Off Montague Island, 7 27th Auguft. j LETTER XVIII. DU R I N G the 25th and 26th of Auguft, we had light winds, and hazy weather. At feven in the evening of the 26th, the wind ftiifted to the Southward, and we wereiii great hopes of get- ting in with the land next day. Towards ten o'clock it came on to blow very frefti, fo that we hove to till three in the morning of the 27th, when we made fail, and ftood to the Northward. At noon we faw the land, bearing due North. Our obfei-vation gave 59 deg. North latitude, being the only good one we had been able to make for the paft fortnight. Longitude 145 deg. 44 min. Weft. Finding ourfelves much too far to the Eaftward, to have any hopes of getting into Prince William's Sound by the South Weft palTage, our Captains deteriiined to try for the entrance by CapeHinchin- trooke, having a favourable breeze and moderate weather. 2 I fliould !|j Min ir Ml/. It 71 Slitirn 1, «J- (. xrin ir I S. Iliiiiioj-iiiii I, ,//,,'',•/ ,'/'/,,/./ -- v..'-' ■ ■ -.»-., .Sin, II \ MdiiIiioiii' llhiiiit Xi'i'.:iilllili;lU' llhlllll .\;i:'.i«>K.r<' /.■,>■: %lontii NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I fhould have obferved, that there are two palTases into the o ^^ wind hi f n°" """'^ "^ ^^'*' " ''" ">"" diftan tt wmd bIo» „,g frem, we taclced, and flood off ihore during tl; niJht not judging .t prudent to ftand in for the land. ^ ' In the morning of the 28th, the land bore Weft at fwelv. .. ourt«n .Ues diftance, and by noon, we had entty Tf^ rf br'eezl I,T '" ""/'•"f^' """ ™"' =""'' ^ ^^^^ ^orth Eaftel .rCrofssU^TCt-grre^rwr,^^^^^^^^^^ ward, where any /kins were lii^ely to beprocured "*'" No'rrEl?yt:Lt''ti;,:;"^^3^^ ciiy Dieezes, with fqually weather. On the ^i-h fl,. weather srrew moderate nn^ <-^i ui , ^ ^^"' "^^ nKu • J ^.^l^^^'^^^C' and tolerably pleafant, with liirht vin able winds, which continued much the fame fill tU. 1, , had a brilk gale fi-om the North llvT ? ^'''' ""^''^ ^^ nearly cahn. On tTi 8th f n u "'''^' '''""^S' ^^ ^"^'"^'l South South Weft Ouibfe [ ^i-ze fprung up from the li', -I '!(■-■ r K Having ,/^f " 74 1786. September. Ily A VOYAGE TO THE Having been at fea a month, when we expelled only a cruize of two or three days, thou mayeft imagine we were greatly elated with the profpe6l of fpeedily coming to anchor, and beginning to traffic j but all our expectations on this head foon vanilhed, for on Hand- ing in for the fhore till four o'clock, and at lefs than three miles diflance, we could not fee any appearance of the Sound mentioned by Captain Cook. The coaft, indeed, formed a Kind of bay, but afforded no place, in this fituation, where a vefTel could anchor^ with any degree of fafety. We founded with a line of 1 10 fathom, but found no bottom, neither was the colour of the water in the leaft changed ; fo that there is reafon to expect deep water quite: clofe to the fliore. Being difappointed in our expectations of falling in with Crofs Sound, it was judged a needlefs wafte of time to look for it in any other fituation, efpecially as Captain Cook never came to anchor there, but only faw it at a confiderable diflance j and we knew by experience, how deceitful the appearances of land are on this coaft, occafioned by a conftant haze, which perpetually changes its pofi- tion, and renders it next to impolTible to afcertain land at a dil- tance, with any degree of certainty. The Bay of IJlands was the next eligible harbour for us to make -, this lay about thirty miles to the Southward and Eaftward. A favourable breeze fpringing up towai'ds the evening, we flood un- der an eafy fail during the night, with every profpeCt of making this harbour foon ; but in the morning of the loth, a very heavy gale of wind came on from the Southward, which continued till evening, when we had a flat calm for a few hours. «i'TjE,i ;i ml A At NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 7S At two o clock in the morning of the i , th, the ga'e came on „S6 eaner than betore. with much rain, and continued itho, t Tta ^'P-'- pt..n « the ,3th, at noon, when the weather grew mode" te ' and tolerably clear. During the gale, we had wofe occafionX to prevent our getting on a lee-fhore, and when it fubfiZ '^' ound ourfelves more than ten leagues from Caje EdgllbT (he neareft pomt of land to the Bay of Jflands) our obCln at noon g.vmg 56 deg. jo min. North latitude. HoweverTrwas determmed to make this harbour if poflible our (^uTl' being pretty much damaged during t'heTr'm "'^'"^ i.t'T'fK" ^T'"^ ^^^ ^"''^ ^'^' ""h » "-oderate breeze from the Southward, and at fix o'clock in the morning ofl! .4th we raw land^bearing from Eaft by North to ~w:ft t fourteen n.les d.ftance. At noon. Cape Edgecombe borf^^ 60 deg. Eaft at ten miles diftance. Our obfem.ion gav 57 def 6 m'n. North latitude. We kept fleering to the Weftwfrd t expeaation of finding the Bay of Wands till five n th^afZl'o ^t could not fall in with any fuch place to th! wfft^S ^"e Cai«. That part of the coaft which we examined forms a kind of fl.a low bay. but affords not the leaft Ihelter for any veff 1 to J L anchor ne.ther could we perceive the leaft fign of inhabi ant We had mdeed heard that the Spaniards anchored very ne .h J place „. ,,75 but th,s account we were afraid was not abfo lutdy to be depended on At fix o'clock we hauled our wind to the Southward. u,-endmg to examine ,l,e South Eaft fide of the Cape , but at n„dn,ght a very heavy gale of wind fprung up from the South Eaft. which continued during .he who/e of'thf rT with heavy and contmued rain ; this made us glad to keep off , I' land as much as pofiible. fo that in the forenofn of theffi^lf e ^vere more than twenty leagues to the Southward of Cpc Edge- ^ combe. h! '■ %- .s * it . 1 T f.- ' "^1 ■ )! fir H 76 A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. combe. The wind grew more moderate, but variable, and fre- .^epLcrn^. q^jgj^^jy fquaiiy^ ^vith rain. The weather was thick, and fo hazy, that we could not fee a mile a-head. The feafon flip]>ing away- very faft, all hopes of making the Bay of Iflands were given up, and it was determined to fteer for King George's Sound, keeping in, however, with the coaft, that no opportunity of accidentally meeting with a harbour might be loft. The weather on the 17th grew moderate, and a fine Wefterly. breeze came on early in the morning : our latitude at noon was ^S degrees 15 min. Norths and our longitude 136 deg. 14 min. Weft. We ftill had a fine North Wefterly breeze, and at one o'clock on the 1 8th, being then fteering due Eaft, we faw land right a-head, on which we ftood diredly for it. Our latitude at noon was 53 deg. 46 min. North j and our longitude 133 deg. 53 min. Weft. At fix o'clock we were well in with the land J but finding no harbour, nor the leaft fign of any inhabi- tants, we bore up, and ftood to the Southward. The land we faw was high, and bore North 65 degrees Eaft, at four miles diftance. The evening was fine, clear, and feren. We faw a fpecies of bird quite different from any we had hitherto feen : his make was long and flender, yet his flight was very heavy. The tips of his wings . and tail were white, and his wings were finely variegated. Pie was nearly the fize of a fmall gnll. Wc likewife faw vvild-gcefe, of various fpecies, in great numbers. The frefli Northerly breeze continued during the 19th} the land: in fight at fix in the morning bore from North Weft to North Eaft, diftance off ihore about nine leagues. Our obfervation at noon gave 51 deg. 56 min. North -, and our longitude 133 deg.. Weft. I- TJie. NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^^ The ivcather during the ;oth and 2, ft was moderate and we „U Uep fta-,d,„g to the Eaftward^ the coaft in fight at eigh ^^ ^4lX. tegues diftance. On the 2,ft, at noon, being h, codL .0 m in """^ North laftude, wefawan ifland. bearing North 53'deg ^Eaft In he afternoon we had a large fl,ark along-fidc. I lemionthis as IS afifl rarely feen r„ f„ch Northerly latitudes.. At f.x o'clo Ic the inand or rather Wands we had feen at noon, bore from N^ h 2a deg. Eaft to North 43 deg. Eaft, at three leagues diftance During the 22d we flood to the Eaftward, for King George'. Sound, wnh a frelh breeze from the North Weft aT o-elock Woody Point bore North Weft by Werft' two T diftance. At fome diftance to the Weftw'aM o'f th ToinU: ' a rock wh,ch obtained the name of Split-Roek, a^d apl jonred by a low reef to the coaft. The Eaftermoft point of land bore North North Eaft, and from that to Woody plt he coaft forms a krn ofbay, covered with pines, fome'of whiA have a very beautiful appearance, the land next the fea being prettyTow and tolerably level The day being thick and hazy. ZZtZl able to get any obfervation to determine our latitude andlbein ' ■mpoffible for us to make the found by day-li.ht Cant„i„ n ^ judged it moft prudent toftand off the'^fl J-e dt^ng r gh;": tt abounds with rocks and breakers. Captain Porriock. howe'ver hojfted out h,s boat, and fent his Third Mate round the kaftermoft ponrt of land to look for an anchoring birth, but he not fucceed n>g, wehaued.o the South Weft, and ftood oft'ftiore till L ntornmg ot the 23d. At fun-fet, the neareft point of land w about fix nnles d.ftant. We founded in forty-five fathom wa^er over a Hard rocky bottom. vvaiei, f '■: ■ i This harbour being our dernier refource for thi^ fe.Crr th maycil i.a.i.e we are extremely anx.ous to n^akj it l^t 1Z cefs .7S A \'OYACE TO THE 1786. cefs wc may msct with, will be the fubje(5l of my next. Adieu. .rKptcua^cn Thine ever, W. B. Off King George's Sound, 7 24tli September, j VHm^l' LETTER XIX. AT tlie conclufion of my laft, we were flattered with hopes of fpeedily making our long willied for port : thefe hopes, I am finceicly forry to tell thee, are now all over, for this year at leaft : however, anticipation apart— let me proceed to give thee a regular account of our ill fortune. I obfcrved before, that we were within fix miles of the land in the evening of the 2 2d, and that we hauled to the Southward during the night. At fix in the morning of the 23d, we made fail, and flood nearly North Eaft, with a frefh breeze from the North Weft. At eight o'clock Split-Rock bore North 40 (\eg. Weft, at fix leagues diftance. Our obfervation at noon gave 49 deg. 50 min. North latitude; and our longitude was 127 deg. 52 min. Weft; fo that we were near twenty miles to the North- ward, and fifty miles to the Weft ward of our harbour. The bluff head to the Weftward bore North 69 d.eg. Weft, and the Eafter- moft land South 60 deg. Eaft, at fix miles diftance. During the afternoon, the breeze grew lighter, and towards five o'clock it was nearly calm, fo that it was impofllble to make the found, on which Ik" e found "^^ bore North 60 .leg. Eaft, diftancc f.xteen or feventeen m ies At e.ghtwe founded with a lino of fif.y-feven fathom, over a Iddv bottom. Dunng the night, we had light, variable wind^ ani fometmies fqually, with rain. ' _ In the morning of the 24th, we again flood for the land ftee,- mg North Eaft by Eaft, with a moderate bree.e from uh E ft The point of land .at the cturan:e^f hetn ^oltor^' E t at four leagues diftance ; and Point Breake, E ^6 S outh' Aftance f.x m.les. A, two o'clock we founded, w th a hie of 6 I fathom, over a rocky bottom. At fonr n'^i^^i, .1 i. ' North SS cleg. Eaft, di.bnce fouH a^^^, ". ' : ^^^ 1> ' '"'' of the land bore from Eaft ,, dec. So mh't, N , ' '^T""'""'' Nootka Point North Ea. by^ r^t^^t:::^;^^^- foundn,gs wuh a line of Hfty-five fathon., over a mjldy botm wi°:5ut srvLilr ^^^t-ni? ^:, "^'i -'-^^^ ^- n.ore than ten mile, di.ant from the' ZL^Z^^Z Z frequent calms, wuh light bartlingwind. in every d at tie ther w.th a heavy rolling fwcll fctting in right on th 1 " l" T' clerei 1 ' Ui So A VOYAGE TO THE 'lii Li 1786. ficfli at South Eaft; and by ten at night, increafed to a violent September. ^^^^^ attended with very heavy rain. About three in the morning of the 26th, a moft tempeftuous ftorm of thunder and lightning came on, the rain ftill continuing. The claps of thunder were aftonilhingly loud, and the lightning fo very fierce, that it blinded the people on deck for a confiderable time, and every flalli left a ftrong fulphurous ilench behind. I was upon deck during the grcatefl: part of the ftorm j and I nuift own to thee, that the awful and tremendous appearance of the elements, if I may be allowed the expreflion, affecled me greatly. How often have I thought, that nothing in nature could equal the thunder ilorm fo beautifully defcribed by Thomfon, in his Seafons : but here, every awful fituation in Thomfon 's pi6ture was brought on the canvafs in the moft confpicuous point of view, and the majcfty of the whole ftill heightened by the roaring of the wind, the raging of the fea, and a more than common darknefs, which overfpread the furrounding atmofphere. Towards fix in the morning the ftorm abated, and we again had light baffling winds, and a very heavy crofs fea, which prevented us from ftanding in for the fliore, efpecially as the morning was thick and hazy. At ten o'clock we faw the land, bearing from North Weft to Eaft, about nine miles diftant ; but frequent calms, and a heavy fwell fetting right in fliore, made us glad to keep from the land as much as poffible, and more efpecially, as from the point of the harbour, and at leaft two miles from fhore, there runs a reef of breakers, for two miles to the Northward. During the afternoon and night, we had light variable winds, with rain. At j^wlf NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. gj At four in the morning of the 27th, a frerti breeze fpringing up ,,0* from South South Wcit, wc made fail, and lood for the harbour SepVefnben but by ten o'clock the breeze died away, and we had baffling winds' ' ~ " with a heavy fwell from the Southward, which fet us direftly on the breakers juft mentioned; fo that our fituation, for fome time was rather alarming. However, foon after eleven o'clock, we were pretty clear of the danger. The King George was to the South- ward of us, fothat Captain Portlock was under no great degree of apprehenfion on his own account. At noon, the Weft point of the harbour bore North 60 deg.Eaft; and the extremes of the land, from Weft North Weft to Eaft by South. The afternoon and evening were fqually, with heavy ftorms of hail. At fix o clock, the entrance into Nootka Sound bore North, cc deg Eaft. twelve mdes diftant. During the night, we had^fglt vattble' IA»i m 1 for .1 r ''!, K ' '"r*' ""''"'"S °^""^ '^*- ^' ^Soi" bore up for he found, but unfortunately had the fame light aifs. and heav^ r^WM° r°T'V ?"'^'' preceding day, fo that finding it im- poffible to make the harbour, at eleven o'clock we hauled to the Southward At noon, the point of the harbour bore North 6 c deg. Eaft, feven miles diftant. The wind, during the afternoon bemgftdl light and variable, with aheavy fwell, le kpttnd„g o he Southward. At feven o'clock, Captan: Portlock fpoke J and mfbrnaed us, that he intended to quit the coaft, and ftand .mmed.ately for Sandwich Iflands. direfting us at tl,; fame .me mitted. The harbour at that time bore Eaft North Eaft, feven trfre ":'n °"'''"'M'" "='""^ '■^" "«'" variable wilds" w.d frequent lowers of hail and rain ; but at five in the morning of the a,;,h, a frefl> bree.e fprungup from the Weftward, which enabled 1 ~ Wf 1 1 f 4 C2 A VOYAGE TO THE O;--' : i^r. .rKt; I III 1786. enabled us to fliape our courfc agreeably to Captain Portlock's September, jircaion, though I muft own wc left the coaft reluaantly, and ^ the more fo, as the prefent wind was what we wanted to cany us into the Ibund. Indeed it fhould be remembered, that the wind for fome days part had been as favourable as we could wifli, when at a diftance from the Ihore, but always grew light and variable, as we drew near the land ; and there is every reafon to imagine this would have been the cafe at prefent : fo that on the whole, we probably may have caufc to rejoice at this unexpefted determina- tion. At noon, the harbour bore North 40 deg. Eaft, diftant about twelve leagues : our latitude was 49 deg. 15 min. North ; and the longitude 127 deg. 35 min. Weft. Before night we had entirely loft lisht of the coaft. Thus ended all our hopes of making King. George's Sound this fcafon. If we take a retrofpecl view of occurrences fince our leaving Cook's River, we fcem to have been peculiarly unfuccefsful in all our attempts to gain a fecond harbour on this inhofpitable coaft. Twice indeed, (viz. at Crofs Sound, and the Bay of Illands) our mifcarriage was owing, in a great meafure, to mifmformation j and that we did not make either Prince William's, or Nootka Sound, may juftly be attributed to unfavourable winds, and bad weather, things which muft ever baffle the ftrongeft efforts of hu- man wifdom ; and, though we were unacquainted with Captani Portlock's motives for leaving the coaft, yet he no doubt was con- vinced, that every attempt had been made that prudence could fuggeft, confiftent with the fafety of the veflels, or the lives of the people. Thus ends our firft trading campaign, and though not abfclutcly unfuccefsful, yet it affords a moft ufeful leflbn for many lituations in #•1 m • NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. in life, and would furnifh mc with an ample field for harranguing on the uncertainty and unltability of all worldly expedatlons, &c. &c. but thou wilt fufpea me of an attempt to palm a pack of rufty, thread-bare moral fentences on thee j fo that I fliall conclude at once. Thine ever. At Sha, I W. B. zdOaobcr. 5 8, 1786. Oftobcr. LETTER XX. HAVING pretty well reconciled ourfelves to the unavoidable difappointments we met with on the American Coaft, our thoughts, like the Ifraelites of old, were fixed on the tiefli-pots of Egypt ; or, to drop the metaphor, we comforted ourfelves with the hope of many a delicious regale among the hogs, yams, and other good chear of Sandwich Iflands. Perhaps from what I faid in my laft, refpeding our bad fuccefs thou wilt conclude we left the coaft without any thing worth notice. To fet thee right in that particular, I fhall juft obferve, that we colleaed in Cook's River near fixty prime otter-lkins • about the fame quantity of an inferior kind ; about twenty fine marmot cloaks, together with racoons, foxes, &c. &c. fufficient to fill three puncheons ; fo that our purchafes, if not very great, were far from defpicable. Captain Portlock's fuccefs was, I believe, nearly fimilar to our's. L 2 We lit ^r r.!i r "♦' 84 !V 1 1 f'l jTf^T" i jii 1 fi |i ' 1786. Odober. A VOYAGE TO THE We left King George's Sound, as I have already obferved, on the 29th of September, with a fine Wefterly breeze j but it fhiftcd to the Eaftward on the 30th, with moderate weather. On the 3 1 ft, the wind again blew from the Weft ward, the wea- ther was clear and fine. On the 4th of Oftober, wc had clofe foggy weather, with frequent fqualls. On the 7th, at noon,, our latitude was 43 deg. 8 min. and our longitude 131 deg. 59 min. Weft : we had variable winds, the weather ftill foggy. During the night, the wind blew a ftrong gale from the Weftward j but to- wards the morning of the 8th, it grew moderate. About eight o'clock in the evening of the i ith, there was a kind of fiery meteor feen playing about the (hip. As failors have a tole- rable fliare of fuperftition, an appearance of this kind is much dreaded by them, and is univerfally known by the appellation of Davy Jones. Davy's power is very great, but he is fuppofed to prefide more immediately over the winds and waves, tliough he feldom or ever appears for any good purpofe ; and this, I prefume, makes the honeft tars afraid of his Worfliip. 'Tis fomewhat ftrange, that a fet of men, who defpife real dan- gers, which might appall t\\QjlouteJl heart, fhould be terrified with ideal fears of their own creating, and thofe raifed by an object fit only for a bug-bear to children. During the night we had a ftrong gale of wind from the South- ward, with heavy rain. A circumftance of this fort happening fo foon after the appearance of Davy Jones, ferves greatly to ftrei)gthen the fuperftitious opinion which failors already entertain of him. la % NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. a; In the morning of the 1 2th, the weather moderated • and at ten ' ?»«• clock tl,e wind lifted totheNorthward. blowingafi-^efrl b^eze" ' °'°^^- JlnZZlTe h'""' T '''""* "" 37 deg. a min. North. anlourlon„.,tude, bemg the mean offeveral fets of lunar obfer vanons ,34 deg. 47 min. Weft. I„ this f.tuation we p cdved ," cuiR-nt fetting pretty ftrong to the Eaftward. P«'«'ved a. acc?2!ht '*"*' "" ""^]" ""■'' '"^S^ "«'■''*• "*i^'> were very ace ptAle, on account of the oil they afforded us, and which we gng, t.i. our o>l runnmg fl,ort. From the 14th to the 2 J, nothing occurred worth notice. During this time we had var ab e wmds, aud pretty moderate weather. On the 25th, ourlatitude was 33 deg. North, and the longitu.ie ■ had a fp ces of b.rds about the (Inp, which I take to be the ftri- atedfan<.-p,per of Pennant, two of which were fo tame, that our people had nearly caught them. From this to the 3, ft, we had little variety. The weather in g»era was tolerably fine, though fometimes'f^ually. w ' i riy over u. I"dccdweica.cdy e.xpea«!to n.eet with any fuch place, a. u ,s cop.ed by Mr. Roberts into the above Chart, f™„ "he lanic *f !^ S('' ..Jril 4 ■ J'i 8^6 17S6. NovcihIht. A \'OYAGE TO THE lame autliorlty which we had ahcady found to be erroneous refpccting Los Majos, and Roco Partida. On tlic 5th of November, at noon, we were In 24 deg. ^2 mhi. North hititude; and the wind blowing from the Eallward for fonie days yiail, gave us fomc liopcs of a Heady tiade ; but in tliis we wei-e (Ulappointed, for in the afternoon the wind hauled to the Southward, and we had a very material alteration in tlie weather, which was continually lijually, with rain. This time of the year feenis to be the llormy fcafon near the Sandwich Iflaiids ; for though we had often ftrong gales of wind, yet they were never fleady or lalHng, but came on us fuddenly, attended with impe- tuous torrents of rain. The weather on the 8th and 9th, was extremely fultry, with lightning almoll in every diredion, particularly in the evening of the 9th. About four o'clock in the morning of the loth, we had a violent gufl: of wind, which lalkd about half an hour, attended with exceeding heavy rain, wiiich greatly contributed to render the atnioipheie cool and pleafant. The fcarcity of birds for many days pall, was rather remarkable, and more particularly fo, as the Tropic birds are peculiar to the latitude we were in : indeed on the 9th, we faw one folitary man ot war bij-d, and the liimc day caught two dolphins, with hook and line, which were the only filli we had been able to lay hold of fnice our leaving the Continent. Our latitude at noon was 22 deg. 54 min. North J and the longitude 151 deg. 24 min. Well:. In the forenoon of the 1 ith, the wind veered to the Northward, and the weather grew moderate and fine. I On -^1 <^OAST OF AMERICA. land . and indeed L knL T ^ ,t d7f aT" "' '" '^°*" ^^ ke, our obfcvation at noon i J. 1. """"''"■ °"'- tude; and the mean of fevefal it. If i ^'.f """' "'"•"' '"i" 4™in. We. .onsitudj^wt tu^r;,: ~ T"^^" With clear weather. ^ EafterJy breeze. Towards the evening, feveral flocks; nF A., ? • about tl,e n,ip. Fof feme ti.e pat : T.Tl ''"^ '^"','^ Southward, having been greatly rctardelb,^ Sou^ 2 '" , " -e wel, to wintaM ^f TZtH''' °""~"^' "-' ^ On the 1 3th. at noon, our latitude was 20 de^ , ^ „ • ^, , and finding ourfeWes wel. to windward of Owtfj, ' ^ ilfn ' nrft intended to touch n wp fl-«o j ^^^jiynee, tlie ifland we a moderate Eallerly Lt.^^drwraZ" ^^ '^''^"■'' "'* and°:;;e';;^^:;rv:rlu^';v"*^■'™"•^°«•''^^^ iiicdu or itveial lunar obfervat bns o-iviiirr , . mn,. Wertlongitudc: wefteered WeftbvSoi W T,'^'- ^' fpeeies of birds flyin. about u, n, T /.,"''■ ^^^ ''ad various &c. The dolphin wae p , „, '"'''' ,"'"' "'' ""^ •^"■''»' flia,ks, one of wh.cl InS L ' ir'^' ""'^^^ "'"«'" '^^="' '-i'-ae on the • 5th waf ^o ^ '^ r 'Ch" 'p 7' f" part we had fulpefted a ftron. cu.ren .■. r . , "' ''^'^'=' between Owhyhc. and M ,, : " " 1 ° ci . ^ '''""'""■''■ ■--'■ I'eyond a doubt, as „.u- Jo t ' , r'.: ^^^ "« ''- «- -unoon. welaw h.gh land above the clouds, beanng'south i)outh 87 l.ii! i' J!- if A ' ■:< 88 1786. Novcmlicu. U . A VOYAGE TO THE South WcH, ten or twelve leagues diftant, which we immediately knew to be Monakaah, a high mountain on Owhyhee. During the niglit, wc ftood to the Weft North Weft, under an eafy faiU and at Icven in the morning of the i6th, Monakaah bore South 25 deg. Weft. A confiderable fpace on its fummit was covered with ihow ; and I have every reafon to think, that this mountain is never totally free. During the forenoon, we fteered nearly Weft by South, about three miles diftant from fhore, with a fine Eafterly breeze ; but the fea running pretty high, no canoes ventured off to us. At two o'clock we faw Mowee, bearing North 70 deg. Weft, about feven leagues diftant. The day being now very clear, we had an uninterrupted view of Monakaah, the higheft land in Owhyhee. This mountain, though undoubtedly very lofty, has nothing ftu- pendous in its appearance, the afcent to it on all fides appearing gradual and eafy. That part of the ifland which we now coafted along, is very beautiful. The land appears to be laid out in diftina plantations, every one of which feemed in a high ftate of cultivation. The higher grounds are covered with trees, which yield a never-failing verdure ; and in three or four places, there are abrupt breaks in the land. Thefe chafms being well fupplied with plentiful ftreams of fine water, render the landfcape truly delightful. As Karakakooa Bay had been found, on feveral accounts, an improper place to anchor in, it was determined to examine another bay, which lay round the South Weft. This bay had been looked into during Captain Cook's ftay here, and we expected it would afford a good harbour ; but about four in the afternoon the breeze died away, and feveral canoes coming from fliore, we hove to, in 2 ordtr NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA « our prefent ^tuatio!' ™a„; trr ."f • '"'T^'"^ '""^^'^ "' '""• fcu..y: indeed, when we confiderT'' .'^ ''*^^^''' """^ "'^ fince our leaving thefe ifland! I,t T u"""'' '""^ ''*' ''^'P^d frem p,.ovifions L ha bee"' '^^-f'^^'" quantity of is almoft a wonder that we V i. ?™""'' ''"""« 'h^' 'in'e, it - we Cid. bnt th s uLl ptTid?'"' '"" ' "''' "' "-'* fure, to a free ufe ;f variou anrir;-"' T "^' '" '"""'^ ■"- P'cuy on boanl. l„ the ev i, ^ f f," "''"'' "^ '"'' ■'" S'^^" ricad cah„, witl. hot ftiv wc f ' '."^ ''" '"S'>f. «'c lt. " ^^^ -'"■ would per.it,a. it wasLowntra^X^abrit^ 'i"S and faft'ing i:^l ,^^2::^'^ «- -^"fi'/ employed n. kii- ^1' M This t-wts ■» j 11^ r90 A VOYAGE TO THE I786'. Tj^ig p^j.^ Qf ^}^g ifland affords but few cocoa-nuts, or plantains: November. ,,., i, iir- ,,- vegetables m the grcateft plenty are bread-fruit, and fweet pota- toes. Among the various curiofities brought by the natives to fell, were a kind of balkets, about eighteen inches high, and five or fix inches in diameter, of a circular form, and exceeding neatly made. The wicker-work of which they were made was frequently varie- gated with twigs of a red colour, and had a pretty effeft. Thefe bafkets were quite new to us, having feen nothing of this fort •-when at the iflands before. The morning of the 1 9th being very fine, and the weather pro- miiing, Captain Portlock paid us a vifit, and propofed flaying the greateft part of the day j but a ftrong breeze fpringing up from South Weft> he went on board his own (hip early in the afternoon. Mowee at this time bearing Weft of us, it was determined to make the Eaftermoft point, and come to anchor there. I fhall conclude for the prefent j but notwithftanding the variety which furrounds us, will refume my pen very foen. Adieu. Thine, &c. W. B. Off Sandwich Islands, aoth November. m LETTER NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. LETTER XXL ft 1786. November. CONTRARY winds, and unfettled weather fruO,.f»^ defign of anchoring at Mowee • but lefr.' ^ , °'" difappointment in courfe ' "' ''^'* "'" *° ">i, Somh We'f "T °^ **-' ''* ^°^ '■■^^"- "'^ '^ind blew frefh at .ay to during theTS. u^ a Ir^re S^Vir"'' -^^ r r:i^MtSor Zdr*"/°P 2;"-:;^^^^ ly are fe.t anVn;^:^ Xandf" ""'' °' "'''"'' "-'''' "^^'^''- Mowee. ftee'ring wS "w^^ h^Tatf no? "" ''™' "^ under the Jee of the land, the breeze', etSLrhadn^rif: weatherwase^^ t-'ru.':";^^^^^^^^^^^ "'?." "« degrees. Having «gh't baffling w^d^ Z^^ZT' ""' '" M2 The ' 1; j;i ^^H ;'^''' 1 1 '' ^^^1 \t L •' < Wi il ■■■ ^ a^i •111, I' h^ 9J 1786. November. i A VOYAGE TO THE The Ifland Mowee has nothing peculiarly ftriking in its appear- ance. The Eaft end of the ifland is very high, but does not ap- pear mountainous, as it defcends in a pretty regular flope to the water's edge. The landfcape is prettily diverfified with trees of various kinds, plantations, &c. but thefe feem greatly inferior to thofe I faw at Owhyhee. About five in the afternoon, we had a ftrong breeze at South Weft, and the weather grew very fqually, on which we fhortened fail, and flood to the North Weft. At eight o'clock, the Weft end of Mowee bore South Weft, five leagues diftant. During thc- night the weather was pretty moderate. At fix in the morning of the 21ft, we wore and ftood to the Southward. At eight, the Eaft end of Mowee bore South 20 deg. Eaft, and the Ifland Moretoy Weft South Weft. Our obfer- vation at noon gave 21 deg. 12 min. North latitude; the extremes of Mowee bore from South 15 deg. Eaft to South 60 deg. Weft; the center of Moretoy South 76 deg. Weft. The weather during the afternoon and night was hot and fultry, with light variable- winds. In the morning of the 2 2d, we had a number of canoes along- fide, from whom we purchafed potatoes, taro, plantains, fiigar- cane, and many otlier article : for the fhip's ufe. The wind con- tinued light and variable, the fliip's head frequently round the compafs. At noon, the main land of Moretoy bore Weft by South, eight or nine miles diftant. I fliould obferve, that the people who came to us from Mowee and Moretoy, feemed to admire our vellels more than any we had hitherto NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 93 ^y5:l:?' ''"•"•""""-'— yofthe.hadneve.feen ... No'.etnber. /here, no canoes ct'ent'r^t noo^:^ ^t ""'"'' ^™- toy bo. South 8 ..eg. Ea.^L it^ ^ °t; U^^^^^^^^^^^ 21 deg. 30 mm. North. At f.x o'clock the bod; of^^^tov b""' South three-quarters Weft; and Mowee South Eaft by Sowh dY 5 Tht::^rrr:fti:„th°rrr^^"^^^^^^^ to procure a freih fupply. ,„ the c^ ntg o/ tK; "I Xt o the 6 r '"' '"•' '"' ""' ^7"'- «"'■ '^'"-'^ =>' noon' O" the 26.h was 2, deg. a, min. North. The Halt end of ti.e wea.hcrto.erab, L^^r rrilTLr^^^^^^ Tha wind amongft thcfe Iflan<.s fccms never to blow from one o tfo anj ,, ,h of tin,c, nor can a fteady tra.le wind. aTtli time of the year, by any means be depcn.lcd on : ibn.ctimcs wo- had Eaftcrly ^ .< . •* m i.' i f i iH 74 A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. Eafteiiy winds, then Southerly, South Weft, Weft, North Weft, Movrmbcr. -^qj.^^^^ ^,^^1^ j,^ (i^^rf^ all rouncl thccompafs, juft as we opened dif- feient points of land. The wind ftill hanging to the Southward, all intentions of making Owhyhcc were given up. On the 28th, being within four miles of Moretoy, we had feve- ral canoes along-fide, which brought us a few fmall hogs, together with fome taro and potatoes, but far from fufficient to fupply us, fo that it was determined tofteer for Whahoo. It unluckily hap- pened, that any frelh breezes we met with came on generally in the night, when prudence did not permit us to make much fail ; and in theday-tinie we had generally light baffling winds. At noon, on the 28th, the bluff end of Moretoy bore South Weft by Weft, about twelve miles diftant. In the afternoon, we had Ibmc fine cooling fhowers of rain, which made the weather much cooler, and more agreeable than it had been for fome time paft. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 29th, we faw Whahoo, and at noon, the Eaft Hummock bore Weft South Weft, about eiglit leagues diftant. Our obfervation gave- 21 deg. 26 min, Nortli latitude. During the afternoon, we kept ftanding along the Coaft of Moretoy. At eight o'clock the round hummock on Whahoo bore Weft South Weft, and the Weft end of Moretoy, South by Eaft. We tacked, and ftood to the North Eaft till twelve o'clock, when we again tacked, and fteered South Weft by Weft. In ?f: H i I NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. In the forenoon of the 30th, wc kept ftanding South Weft, with a fine breeze at South Eaft. Our obfervation at noon gave 21 tleg. 20 min. North latitude. The Weft end of Moretoy bore South 45 deg. Eaft j and Whahoo South Weft, diftant about two leagues. At five in the afternoon we came to anchor in eight fatliom water, in the bay we lay in before, and pretty near our old fitu- ation, the Eaft extrcnie of the bay bearing Eaft by South j and the Wefternioft land Weft by South, half South, about two miles dif« tant from /hore. In the evening we moored ftiip, with the ftream: anchor and cable. As It IS moi-e than a fortnight fince we firft made the iflands, thou mayeft think it fomewhat extraordinary that we did not get into a harbour before ; but thou muft confider, that hogs and vegetables, being what we chiefly wanted, could in general be as eafily procured, by plying oft' and on, as coming to anchor. Again, having a confiderable time to fpend among thefe iflands, we were loth to leave thofe to windward, as in that cafe it would be next to impoffible to fetch them again. If thefe reafons, joined to the contrary and light winds we have had lately, are not iufficient for thee, it is out of my power to give thee any better : indeed I give niyfelf little concern about the mat« ter, generally thinking with Pope, that « ivhatcvcris, is right." However, I cannot help congratulating myfelf on our prefent fituation, compared with what it would have been, had we win- tered in King George's Sound : perhaps by this time the greateft part of us but I will trouble thee with no perhaps's ; let it ^ fufficc,. 9tf 1786. November, KLu i'lp I* i-i IT t > ^-^ 1 ^ ^ r r- i- 96 A VOYAGE TO THE d- ^n ' 1786. fufficc, lliat wc are, to a man, in tolerable health, and excellent December. , fpnits. I fliall take the earliefl: opportunity to communicate our tran- factions at this place. Mean while believe me ever thine, W. B. Whahoo, } 2d Dec. 1 LETTER XXII. EARLY in the morning of the i ft of December, the people began to overhaul our rigging, fore and aft, it being very much out of order. By day-light we had a number of canoes along-lidc, chiefly loaded with water, which we purchafcd on the fame eafy terms as before, viz. a large calabafli for an eight-penny or ten-penny nail, and fmaller ones in proportion. Many of thefe gourds, or calabaflies, are very wide at the top, and ufed by the natives for various purpofes, and particularly to hold a kind of pudding made of taro. So eagerly did they purfue this profitable traffic, that they feldom waflied their vellels, and we unavoidably got taro pudding mixed among the water ; but we found it of little or no prejudice, though the fight would perhaps not have been altogether pleafing to an epicure. The people brought fome hogs, potatoes, and taro, but not a fufficient quan- tity to fupply us from day to day : on our enquiring the rcafon, I we NORTII.WEST COAST OF AMERICA. we were given to uiidcrfland, that tlie hogs and vegetables were tabooed, till the King had been on board the fliips, and that they cxi)eaed him to pay us a vifit very fhortly. If I remember right I mentioned the taboo when we were laft at the iflands I fliall now only juft obfcrve. that its operation is very extenfive, and regards not only places, but food, and, in fliort. every a^ion of In the afternoon of the ift, we had frequent fqualls, attended With a good deal of rain. By noon on the 3d, we had compleated our water, and could have procured a great deal more, the natives ftill bringing it with the greateft avidity. Indeed this is not to be wondered at, if we confider the great value they fet on iron, and that water cofts them only the trouble of fetching from fliore. Befides nails, we found buttons very ufeful in our traffic with thefe people. To the credit of the men be it fpoken, they looked on them as things of no value ; but the females law them in a very different point of view, and were exceedingly fond of wearing them round their wrifts and ancles as bracelets, calling them Booboo and fometimes Poreema. As gallantry is perhaps equally preva^ lent here, as in more civilized nations, the men frequently pre- ferred buttons to nails (contrary to their better judgment) in their traffic. This is an inconteftible proof, that the power of beauty is not confined within the narrow limits of our polite European cir- cles, but has equal influence all over the world. In the forenoon of the 4th, Teereteere, the King, paid us a vifit. He came m a large double canoe, attended bv two youncr men N *^hoi 97 1786. December. ( • H. i.hami P h 98 EU 1786. December. • i\' A VOYAGE TO THE who, we underftood, were his nephews, and a number of other Chiefs. The King is a good-looking man, and appears about forty-five or fifty years old : he is tall, ftraight, and well-made, but his eyes feem rather weak, and affedted with a kind of rheum ; but whether this is owing to difeafe, or to a temporary cold, I can- not fay. None of the Chiefs had any thing ftriking in their ap- pearance, though it was eafy to fee that they were above the com- mon rank. The King's nephews were by far the fineft men we had yet feeu at any of the illands : they are not brothers. Piapia, the elder, being, if we underftood right, fon to the King of Atoui j and Myaro, the youngti , fon to a fifter of Teereteere. Piapia is aboul: five feet nine inches high, ftraight, and well pro- portioned : his legs and thighs very mufcular, his ftep firm, and rathei graceful j and there is a dignity in his deportment which ftiews him to be a perfon of the firft confequence. His counte- nance is free and open, but rather disfigured by the lofs of three fore-teeth, which, as I underftood, were broke for the lofs of a relation, it being the cuftom here for the Arees, or Chiefs, to part with a tooth at the death of a friend ; his legs, thighs, arms, and various parts of his body, are tattooed in a veiy curious man- ner. Myaro is nearly as tall as his coufin, but caft, (if I may be al- lowed the exprelFion) in a more delicate mould : he walks creel and ftately, and his ftep is very graceful and majeftic. It would, I think, baffle the united powers of a Wilton, Bacon, and Roubiliac, to equal the exa^t fymmetry and fine turn of his legs and thighs, or NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 9^ or indeed his whole body ; in fhort, his figure has fomething in it i7«6. exceedingly prepofTeffing. December. Teereteere, having fatisfied his curiofity for the prefent, and Captain Dixon prefenting him with fome beads, and other trifles, left us about two in the afternoon; and we foon felt the good effefts of his vifit, the inhabitants bringing hogs and vegetables in much greater plenty than before, though from the little refpe6t they feemed to pay him, we were led to fuppofe, that his influence over them was not great -, in this point, however, we were mif- taken. To lead thee regularly to a circumftance, which I am now going to mention, it will be neceflary to refer fo far back as our fitting out. * When we left England, the quantity of coals our veflel was fup- plied with was very inadequate to a voyage like our's, though they were conftantly ufed with the moft fcrupulous care. As Falkland's Iflands afforded «o wood, the Coaft of America was the only place where we could procure any. Fully ex peeking to touch at feveral harbours, and perhaps whiter in King George's Sound, what wood we got in Cook's River was foon expended. It cannot be forgot, under what circumftances, and with what re- ludance, we left the American Coaft; and the more, as fuel was one of our „reateft wants ; for though we knew Sandwich Iflands af- forded moft of theneceflaries of life in great plenty, yet wealmoftde- fpaired of getting a fupply of fuel ; but in this refpeft we were moft agreeably difappointed ; for we no foontr made the natives under^ ^' 2 rtand ■•; -I ;rf1 pi ]00 A VOYAGE TO THE »786. (Vand what we wanted, than they brought us plenty of wood, fuch ^^"" ^' as anfwered our purpofe extremely well, and which we purchafed on the fame eafy terms as the water. During the 5th and 6th, were were all very bufily employed ; fome taking in wood from the natives -, others over-hauling the rigging, &c. and the reft killing and faking hogs for fea-ftore. The wea- ther fmce the I ft has been fine and fettled, with a fteady breeze at North North Eaft. From the 7th to the loth the wind blew frelh, at Eaft North Eaft J and the fea running pretty high, very few canoes came near us. This weather, however, did not prevent the King and his attendants from paying us frequent vifits ; but it was very apparent that intereft, more than curiofity, induced him to come on board fo often } for though he always brought fomething, by way of a Matano, or prefent, yet it was generally very trivial, fuch as a fmall hog, a few cocoa-nuts, and fometimes a few fmall barbel ; and Captain Dixon always gave him ten times the value. Indeed it would have been extremely impolitic not to have paid him this mark of our refpecSt and attention, as he could, by tabooing the inhabitants, have eafily prevented a fmgle canoe from coming near us ; but by thus feeding his avarice, and gmtlfying his ambition, he not only allowed, but encouraged the people to bring us what- ever the ifland afforded. The wind ftill continued at Eaft Norths Eaft ; the weather moderate and fine. Soon after v/e came to anchor, our whale-boat was hoifted out',, to be in readincfs whenever occafion required ; and was generally fecured by her painter to the fhip's ftcrn. A boy was ordered to look after her in the day-time, and in the night, the watch always kept; NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jo, kept a good look out j and having moon-light, the boat hitherto ,786. had been fafej but m the evening of the nth, fomeof the natives D^^™''^''- had formed a defign to fteal her, (the moon not rifmg till paft mid- night) and we faw feveral canoes bufy about her painter. On this, Captain Dixon fired two mufquets over their heads, which made them flieer off with precipitation, and we got her on board next day, for fear of a fecond vifit of the like nature. ^ In the forenoon of the 1 2th, we caught a large fliark, and know- ing It would be a very acceptable prefent to the King, Cdptain Dixon feiit to inform ionie of his people who happened to be on board the King George of it. Teereteere prefently fcnt his fon, with feveral attendants, in a large canoe, for the ll.ark, which fcemed to pleafe them verv much. The King fent a nne hog by his fon, as an equivalent for ou. prefent J but the young man, with a degree of honelly peculiar to his country, fold us the hog for a large toe. The laft time we were at Whahoo, in falling from thence to Atom, we pafled a bay to the Weitward of our prefent fituation which promifed to afford a good harbour; tlie fi.rroLmdincr coun' try fertile, and full of inhabitants. At that time we had no'oppor" tunity of examining it. but now, having fufficient leifure, on the 13th Captain Portiock fent his long boat,, (which had been decked and fchooner-ngged, fince we came to Whahoo) with Mr Ifiy' ward, his Third Mate, accompanied by our Third Mate, Mr White, to furvey the bay accurately., Mr Hayward returned in the morning of the 15th, and reported, that there was no convenient anchorage in any part of the bay , and ' if. - 4. ■ ^ri^i i;^-r ■. I !>i!C ■'t|j(i! fOX 1786. December. A VOYAGE TO THE and that there was ^rom fixty-fix to feventy fathom water clofe in fliore. We now learnt, that Teereteere generally refided in this bay, which is called by the natives Whitette Bay. Except the affair of the whale-boat, we had difcovered very few thefts ; but this, doubtlefs, has been owing to our keeping the veflel as clear of the natives as poflible, more than their honeft dif- pofition, which we are affured is not at all to be depended on. I fhall embrace every opportunity of acquainting thee with our future proceedings j mean while, believe me thine, &c. W. B. Wh kVhahoo, ? l6thDec. I 1 1 >''/: LETTER XXIII. AMONGST the few vifitors we admitted on board, (befides the King, and his attendants) was an old prieft, who feemed to have confiderable authority amongft the natives. He always brought two attendants with himj one purpoiely to pre- pare his Ava, and the other to be always near his perfon, whenever he fliould be wanted. The Ava is a root, fomevvhat refembling our Jiq ;orice in fliape and colour, but totally different in talle. None but the Arees, or Chiefs, are permitted to ufe it, and they never pre- pare it themfelveSj but always keep a fervant. whofe fole bufinefs is 2 (Gany- k 111 NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. (Ganymede like) to prepare and adminifter this delicious potation to his mafter. He firft begins by chewing a fufficient quantity, till It IS well mafticated 3 this is put into a neat wooden bowl, made for the purpofe, and a fmall quantity of water being poured over, It IS well fqueezed, and the liquor afterwards ftrained through a piece of cloth. The delicious beverage is now compleat, and is drank with the higheft relifli. This root is of ?- intoxicating nature, but feems to flupify rather than exhilerate the fpirits. Its effeds are very pernicious,' If we may judge by the old prieft. who appeared greatly emaciated, and his body was covered with a white fcurf, which had the appear- ance of the leprofy. The wind ftill kept at North Eaft, and Eaft North Eaft, but from the 13th to the i6th, a very heavy fwell fet into the bay from the South Eaft, which caufed tlie vefTel to. roll very much. On the 14th, we perceived the natives very bufily employed on the hill, at the South Eaft extreme of the illand j and by noon on the 15th, their work was fo far advanced, that we could plainly difcern they were ereaing a houfe, tliough the diftance from us was very confiderable. The fame afternoon, all the canoes left both (hips, and not one returned in the evening, which, till now had never been the cafe, for, as an i.Uercourfe with women was allowed, (indeed it could noteafily be prevented) our people never tailed to have a number on board every night. This made us fuf- ped: that the people were tabooed, and our conjeaures proved to be right; for during the whole of the j6th. not a fingle canoe ap- peared in the bay, but the funnnit of the mountain round the new ereaed edifice, was perfedly cro. dcd with people tiie whole day; 103. 1786. December. r ■ i 104 A VOYAGE TO THE ,786. day ; and in the evening, a number of fires were lighted as near December. ^^"^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^-j^jj would permit. In the morning of the 1 7th, we were in the fame quiet fituation ; not a canoe to be feen, but the hill fcemcd pretty well cleared of its vifitants. About ten o'clock in the forenoon, a man who was a ftranger to us, came on board, bringing with him a very fmall pig, as a prefent, and a branch of the cocoa-palm to fix at the maft head. This made us hope that the taboo was taken off, and the more, as all our hogs and vegetables were confumed. Soon after- wards our old acquaintance the prieft paid us a viiit, brmgmg a few trifles, as ulual, by way of prefent, and for which he always got five times the value. We had ftrong'y fulpecled this old man to be the caufe of the taboo, as he left the Ihip on the 15th, feem- ingly much diffatisfied with fomething or other, and had not been near us till now ; but we were convinced, that our i onjeaures were ill-founded, though he gave no fiitisfaclory account of the recent tranfaaions on fiiore; but kept repeating with great vocifcrnnon, and for a confiderable length of time, " reenfcerc pooncpccne, Teeretccre arreoura," or that the King was a liar, fcoundrcl, and deceitful perfon; Tconcpoone and arreoiira, being terms of re- proach. From this it was evident, that fomething had been tran- faaing contrary to eftabliflied cuftom, or the rules of the country. About noon, Teereteere came on board, bringing his ufual prefent of a hog, fome fifli, and a few cocoa-nuts. A number of canoes now came along-fide, from whom we bought a few hogs and vege- tables, but could obtain no fatisfaaory account from any of them why the taboo was laid on. Some of them gave us to underftand that there had been a folemn feftivai at the top of the mountam ; ' and, ir we underftood right, a human facriftce offered, but whether a man NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. la^ a man or woman, we could not learn. The women, however, 1786. were ftill tabooed, and none fufFered to come near the fir; 3» December. About midnight, our fmall bower-cable parted In a fudden guft of wind, on which we let go the beft bower. On heaving in the cable, we found it very much hurt, which we fufpefted to be done by the foulnefs of the bottom. The former part of the i8th was fpent in fearching for our anchor, which we did not find till noon, the buoy being funk. No time was loft in attempting to get it on board; and about fix in the afternoon, we had nearly effe^ed our purpofe, when a fud- den fquall coming on, fnapt the haufer which we had bent to that part of the cable remaining to the anchor, when it was almoft at the bows. This was a vexatious circumftance, and we were afraid that the recovering our anchor would be attended with difficulty, as the evening was lowering, and feemed to forebode tempeftuous weather J but as night came on, the fky cleared up, and the next morning proved fine, with little or no wind, fo that we got the anchor on board by eleven o'clock. We now were fupplied with hogs and vegetables, in tolerable plenty, but no women were fuiFered to come on board the (hips : the reafon for this, we underftood was, a woman had becndeteaed eating pork on board one of the vefi'els. It feems the women are always tabooed from eating pork on fliore, and breaking through reftriaions of this fort, is reckoned a crime of the firft magnitude ; nay, we were afllired, that the poor wretch had fallen a viaim to the laws of her country, and had aftually been offered as a facrifice, to appeafe, I fuppofe, the wrath of their gods, for fa hemous a crime. But befides this affair of the facrifice, there was. ^ anotheA*^ io6 1786. December. isi?! A VOYAGE TO THE ranotlier motive, it feems, for the large concourfe of people we had {o lately feen at the top of the mountain, and which accounts for the ftrict taboo laid on the natives, during the time of this general aflembly. Teereteere had caufed the houfe I have mentioned at the top of the hill, to be built as a kind of repofitory, or ftore-houfe, for fuch articles as the natives might obtain in the courfe of their traffic with our vefiels : when this was compleated, he caufed the bay to be tabooed, and convened a general afTembly of the inhabitants at the top of this mountain, direfting them at the fame time, to bring whatever trade they had got, that it might be deported in his new- erefted edifice. This being effeaed, he found means, on fome pretext or other, to appropriate one-half of thefe flores to his own ufe. We now no longer wondered at the old prieft venting his reproaches fo very liberally, as it was pretty evident Teereteere had 'exerted his authority contrary to the rules of jufticeand equity. Though the little we faw of thefe tranfaaions, or what infor- mation we got refpeaing them, is infufficient for me to draw any conclufive determination as to their laws j yet of this we are cer- tain, that the horrid cuftom of offerii-g up human facrifices, on certain occafions, aaually exifts amongft thefe illands, and that the King's authority is abfolute. It was evident, from our late misfortune, that we could not keep our prefent fituation without damaging the cables ; fo that it was determined to leave this iHand, and fteer for Attoui the firft oppor- tunity. At NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,0;^ At five o'clock in the afternoon of the 19th, Captain Portlock 1786. made the fignal for weighing anchor, which we did in a fliort ^^^"^i'^''- time, and flood out of the bay with a moderate eafteily breeze. ' ""^ After {landing on for fome time, we could fee nothing of the King George following us, on which we wore, and flretched again into the bay. On fpeaking Captain Portlock, we were informed that they had not yet purchafed their anchor, and were doubtful whe- ther they fhould be able to accomplifh it in the courfe of the even- ing. However, we kept under an eafy fail, making fhort boards, till pafl eight o'clock, when Captain Portlock made tlie fignal for us to anchor. About ten o'clock in the morning of the 20th, the King George- being a-weigh, we weighed and made fail, Handing out of the bay with a moderate breeze at North Eall. By noon we were about ten miles from the bay. We learnt from Captain Portlock that the Indians had cut his bell bower-cable which had occafioned his delay the preceding evening, and tliis morning. Captain Portlock had Piapia, the King's nephew, on board, accompanied with the man who ufed to chew Ava for Teercteere. It feems Piapia was fo exceedingly attached to Captain Portlock, that he was determined to go with him to Pritane, as tliey call England ; and the cup- beaier was inclined to follow the fortunes of his young mailer. The day being fine, feveral canoes, filled with the relations and friends of thefe new voyagers, followed the King George to a con fidemble dillance from Whahoo ; and when they took their leave of them for ever, as they thought, their grief was exprefled in the moll audible manner, wringing their hands, and making the moft bitter lamentations all the time they were in fight of the vefTel : neither did Piapia, and his fervant take leave of their friends and country, without exprelfing fome degree of concern ; but their regret •ii v: " io8 A VOYAGE TO THE 1 ^' • 1786, regret was lefs at prefent, as their attention was, in a great mea- Dccembcr. ^^^.^^ ^,,| „,^ ,,p ,,|jjj ^j^g novelty of their fituation. We had light baffling winds, till the evening of the 21ft, when a ftrong breeze came on at North Eaft, which brought us in fight of Atoui, in the morning of the 2 2d. At noon our latitude was 22 deg. 12 min. Noiil\, .:\:Eaft point of land bore Eaft North Eaft, about fix miles diftant from fliore. The Ifland Onehow Weft South Weft j Wymoa Bay, the place where we propofed to anchor, being to the Southward and Weft ward. About two o'clock, being as yet confiderably to the Eaftward of our propofed anchoring place, we paiTed over a good deal of ftioal water, having fcldom more than five fathom, over a fandy bottom j the adjacent fliore, which was not more than two miles diftant, appeared level and well cultivated. About three o'clock, Captain Portlock let go his anchor, and we having bottom in twenty-five fathom, and at a convenient diftance from the King George, prepared to do the fame, which, though we did with all expedition, and veered out fifty fathom cable, the anchor did not bring us up : this made us conjecture that we had drove off the bank, and our opinion was confirmed on heaving the lead over, as we found no bottom with eighty fathom line. Whilft our anchor was purchafing, we unavoidably drifted to lee- ward, fo that it was imprafticable to make the fituation we firft intended. On this we made feveral boards, and about five o'clock came to in a very good fituation, near three miles North Weft of the King George, in eighteen and half fathom water, over a fandy bottom, inclining to mud. A long, low, fandy point to the South Weft, bearing Weft by South j the Eaftermoft point of the bay Eaft South Eaft -, the mouth of a frefli water river North Eaft by Eaft, Vm'i NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. j^^ Eaft, rather more than a mile diftant from (hore. The Ifland ,786 Onehow South South Weft. Dccemlir. Our tranfadions at this place fhall be the fubjea: of mv next. Thine, '' Atoui, 7 22d Dec. J W. B. ft LETTER XXIV. y\ TOUI was the firft place Captain Cook anchored at, when jrX. thefe iflands were difcovered by him ; fo that it was known to afford great plenty of hogs and vegetables : the former we wanted to cure for fea-ftore, as the hogs we had bought fmce our leavmg Owhyhee afforded us little more than a daily fupply. Early in the morning of the 23d December, we were furrounded by a number of canoes, moft of them well loaded with taro, pota- toes, fugar-cane, and cocoa-nuts, and a good number of fine hogs. This plainly fhewed us, that the inhabitants knew we were come for a fupply of provifions, and had prepared themfelves accord- ingly. We found the roots much cheaper, and in greater plenty than at Whahoo ; but finding we were defirous of buying large hogs, they were at firft exorbitant in their demands, at leaft in proportion to what we had given at the other iflands, on which we feemed 4 .•I i. > iv ; V t * Sir. ■lltL-t, • -!W W' JJBJtit'i ■pi .*.};■ , .: •.qjl ''i i 1 If' jjo A VOYAGE TO THE 1786. feemed indifFerent about the matter, and by this means fooii December, i^o^ght the laigeft liogs for one large, or two middling-fizcd toes. On our afkmg for water, they prefently brought us fome very excellent, indeed the bcft by far we had hitherto met with. This kind of traffic was entirely new to them, and they very gladly fup- plied us on the fame eafy terms we bought it for at Whahoo. Cocoa-nuts we found in the greateft plenty j the lettled price for them was five for an eightpenny nail. The fugar-cane was ex- ceeding fine, and equally cheap. The taro here is by far the fined of any we met with, and very plentiful ; we commonly got five fine roots for an eightpenny or tenpenny nail.^ This illand pro- duces no yams, and very little, if any bread-fruit. The weather till the 27th was moderate and fine j but on that day, a ftrong breeze fprung up at Eaft North Eaft, and a heavy fwell fet in from Eaft South Eaft, right along ftiore : we were moored with the ftream-anchor, and rode much eafier than at Whahoo i befides, the bottom here being free from rocks, we were under lefs anxiety in regard to our cables. The 28th, and part of the 29th, were wet and dirty j but towards evening, the fky brightened up, and the weather grew moderate and fine. This being Chriftmas, that feafon of the year fo univerfally convivial throughout the civilized world, we fpent our time as agreeably, and with plenty of as good chear as we could procure, iuch as roaft pig, fea-pie, &c. &c. and to flicw our refined tafte, even in our liquor, wc no longer drank grog mixed with fimple water, but offered our Chriftmas libations in punch, mixed with t1 1^ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. HI the juice of the cocoa-nut, toafting our friends and miftreflls in 1787. bumpers of this hquor, which, peihaps, picafcd more on account J^'^- of its novelty, than from any other circumftance. The weather feldom continued fettled for more than a day toge- ther i ftrong breezes at Eaft North Eaft, with a heavy South Eaft fwell, frequently intervening. By the 4th of January, 1787, we had Hiked and packed five puncheons of pork for fea-ftore j but hogs now grew rather fcarce, not that we fuppofed the fcarcity real, but owing to fome fcheme or other of the petty Chiefs. We had for fome time expeded a vifit from the King, and been given to under/land, tliat his pre- fence, like a cornucopia, would teem with plenty ; but his Majefty had not as yet thought proper to favour us fo far. Abbenoue, the Chief, whom we met with at Onehov/ laft year, was generally on board the King George, and being attached to Captain Portlock, caufed plenty of fine hogs to be fent him ; but at prefent we found very little of his influence reach on board our vcfTel. From the 5th to the 9th, the weather was in an unfettled flate, the wind frequently fliifting to the Weftward, but feldom blew from that quarter twelve hours together, and then only a moderate breeze. During this time, we were daily vifited by the natives, who kept bringing us a few hogs, with taro, cocoa-nuts, 6cc. but barely fufiicient tofupplyus from hand to mouth. ^ Befides this traffic, which was carried on for neceflaries, the na- tives had a briik trade for curiofities of various kinds, fuch as cloaks. '¥t -'v. XI2 1787. January. A VOYAGE TO THE cloaks, caps, mats, fifhing-lines and hooks, necklaces, &c. &c. I probably may attempt to defcribe them at a future opportunity. They likewife brought great numbers of beautiful bird-lkins, in excellent prefervation : thefe were generally made up in parcels of ten each, by a wooden fkewer run through their beaks. On our wifliing to procure fome of them alive, we foon found plenty of bird-catchers, and the living birds were fold nearly as cheap as the preferved ones : they are near the fize of a robin, the breaft and throat of a moft beautiful lively red, with a long beak, the wings and back a deep brown. I am informed by Mr. Hogan, Surgeon of the King George, who I before obferved to thee, has ftudied Natural Hiftory, that they are a fpecies of the humming-bird. Thefe birds being purchafed by us with great avidity, the natives were induced to bring every thing of the kind they could lay hold of, among which was a fpecies of wild-duck. Captain Dixon, on feeing them, concluded the ifland afforded plenty of game, and being fond of fhooting, took two or three opportunities of going on fliore with his gun, attended only by a fervant, in one of the Indian canoes. The man to whom the canoe belonged had been very afTiduous in bringing off water, and fuch other articles for our ufe, as were in his power ; indeed he had been greatly noticed by many of us, and treated kindly, particularly by Captain Dixon,, on account of the great refemblance he bore to one of our people : the man feemed highly fenfible of the preference given to liim before his neighbours, and was not a little proud of his new ofRce. The firft time our Captain went on fliore, he was apprehenfivc that the natives, by crowding about him, would fpoil his diverfion ^ but he found himfelf agreeably miftaken. Curiofity was excited in a much lefs degree here than at Whahoo ; inftcad of being fur- rounded by crowds of idle, inquifitive gazers, the people generally 1 ftuck NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 113 fVuck clofe to whatever employments they were engaged in, fuch as 1787. manufaauring cloth, making lines, ropes, &c. fo that hetraverfed January- the country with as much eafe, as he could have done in England. Contrary to his expectation, he did not find game very plentiful, yet never returned without fome fpoils of the field, fuch as ducks, terns, a fpecies like our water-hen, and various other kinds. By this time, the wood we procured at Whahoo began to grow (hort, on account of the conftant fires we were obliged to keep for heating water to fcald hogs, and var-ous other purpofes. On this we applied to the natives for fome, though without any fanguine hopes of our application being fuccefsful, as the mountains where the woods grow are farther up the country on this ifiand, than at any of the others i however, our appUcation was very fuccefsful, the natives to a man engaging in this traflic, and every individual bringing us more or lefs of the article we wanted, though it was evident, from many poles and rafters brought for fale, and which had been recently pulled out of the ground, that their fences, and perhaps houfes, had been demoliflied for our accommodation, and I may fay, their profit j yet this proceeding feives to fhew, that any thing whatever this ifland, or indeed any of the group affords, may eafily be obtained, fo great is the value they fet on iron. The weather continuing unfettled, and the fupply of vegetables being infufficient to ferve us daily, it was determined to make Oneehow the firft opportunity : fo early in the morning of the loth January, Captain Portlock ma-'e the fignal for weighing anchor. I have before obferved, that he lay farther out at fea than we did, fo that he was favoured with a good Eafterly breeze, at the fame time we were becalmed, and could not poflibly anfwer his fignal. After making a fhort board, finding the wind ligiit and P baffling, I 1. I '1. » m 114 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. baffling, Captain Portlock came to anchor pretty near his old fitu- January, ^^^j^^^^ At five o'clock in the morning of the nth, a ftrong breeze fpringing up at Baft South Eaft, we weighed and made fail, Hand- ing direftly for Oneehow j the breeze continued during the fore- noon, with thunder, lightning, and rain. At noon, the Weft end of Atoui bore North 21 deg. Eaft, feven leagues diftant j and the high land on the South end of Oneehow, South 70 deg. Weft. We fully expected to have anchored at Oneehow by three o'clock, but before that time, the wind veered to the Weftward, which made it impoflible for u? to attempt it. From the nth to the i8th, we had frefii Wefterly and Nor- therly breezes, light baffling winds intervening at times. On the 1 5th, the King George weathered the South point of Oneehv-v ; and on the 16th, we loft fight of her, which made us conclude flie had come to an anchor : our veffel being very foul, could not work to windward equal to the King George, fo that we contented ourfelves in plying between the ifiands, making longer or fhoiter boards, as circumftances required ; however, we could not help repining at our fituation, when compared with that of our fellow-voyagers ; but the event ftiewed, that they were far from being in an enviable fituation. During this time we took care to ftretch well to the Southward and Eaftward, a precaution which proved exceedingly neceflary ; for on the 19th, a ftrong gale of wind came on at South Weft, with a very heavy crofs fea, whicli continued till noon on the 21ft. In NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 'IS In die afternoon of the 20th, the weather being thick and hazy, 1787 we loft fight of land, and did not fee it again till near noon on the J='""^'-y- 22d when Atoui bore from North 15 deg. Eaft, to Nor^ c^-deff. """^^ Weft i diftant about four leagues. During this gale, we were under great apprehenfions for Can- tain Portlock's fafety, as his fituation we knew muft be a very cri tical one, no harbour at Oneehow affording the leaft Ihelter from a Southerly or Wefterly wind. But at one o'clock on the 22d. we aw the King George, to our great fatisfaftion, bearing Weft by Nortli, about three leagues diftant. From her fituation, it was evident, that flie had failed round Oneehow, and we did not doubt but that fhe had been obliged by die violence of the gale, to flip, or cut her cables, and run to fea. The wind continued wefterly till the 25th, when it veered to South Eaft, and foon afterwards to North North Eaft; this being fa- vourable for us, and likely to continue from that quarter, we again ftood for Oneehow, and in the evening of the 26th, came to anchor in Yam Bay, in twenty-nine fathom water, over a fandy bottom • the extremes of Oneehow bore from South Eaft to North by Weft' a mile and half diftant from fliore; the Ifland Tahoora South a8 deg. Weft. ^ During the 27th, the wind kept at North North Eaft, b it blew fo frefli, that our fituation was by no means an eligible one;. Our principal motive in coming to Oneehow was, to procure a fupply of yams, they being the only root this ifland aftbrds, which will keep for any time , but the furf ran fo high, that very few canoes ventured oft" to us. The fame reafon operated againft our attempt- ing to learch for the anchors left here by Captain Portlock. The King •.|. V - f *i m r Il< 1787. January . ■i»tv y ;''i A VOYAGE TO THE King George laying near two miles from us, we hove up our anchor in the morning of the 28th, and after making a few boards, came to with our bell bower, in twenty-feven fathom water, over a bot- tom of fand, mixed with coral, about two miles diftant from fliore, and at a convenient dlftancc from the King George. Oi^r fears foi Captain Portlock during the gale, 'vere but too well founded ; he had been reduced to the neceflity of cutting his cables, and run- ning to fea ; and though he embraced the moft favourable oppor- tunity of doing this, yet he had barely room to weather the break- ers at the North point of the bay. This was a moft ftriking lelTon for us, in regard to our future conduft, and pointed to us the ma- nifeft impropriety of murmuring at — may I be allowed to fay ? — the difpenfations of Providence !- — Had we been fortunate enough to have made Yam-Bay at the time the King George did, 'tis im- pofllble to fay what our fituation would have been, or where we might have drove, when neceffity forced us to quit it : hut few of us were philofophers enough to acknowledge with the Poet, that *' The ways of Heaven are dark and intricate, *' Puzzl'd in mazes and perplcx'd in errors, " Our underftanding traces 'em in vain, " Loft and bewilder'd in the fruitlefs fearch ; " Nor fees with how much art the windings run, " Nor where the regular confulion ends." 'Tis impoflible for me, when circumftances of this fort are immediately before my eyes, to avoid moralizing in fome degree, efpecially when I meet with a fet of men who attribute any fuppofed evil that befals them to mifconduB ; any temporary fuccefs to good- fortune, entirely forgetting, that 'tis a gracious Providence who " direds, impels, and rules the whole." 2 I niall ''--■■^'r^Ji^'^<:''^ft*m--'^- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I fliall therefore, in future, make no kind of apology for digref- ,787 l!" r rK, °l'' ^~^o-Sn they may be to my nlration, as J— > I am fenfible thou wilt make every kind, allowance for the imper- ^"^ feftions of thy afllired friend, ^ NEEHOW, I 9th Jan. 1 One 2 W. B.. my^ If* i I '1' I LETTER XXV I^he wfrT\f '^' ''* "^ J^""''^' "•« wind vec,^ to. A the Weftward, blowing a frefli breeze , this nrnde us appre! hend a return of unfettled weather, and experience having ta'ugl t «s that there was no laying here with a Wefterly wind it was aete.™„edto get to fea, fl,ouM the breeze contLue f;omZ On the 29th, about two o'elock, the wind ftiU Wefterly Canfain Portlock made the fignal for weighing anchor : by three we mde IV" d pT •'; ^°'*- '"'^"'''"S *°«-'^" -"to ■ the Ia„7 ""■"' "'' ^' ^' '™"'^' - ™isl.t keep clear of >iring the 30th. the weather was tolerably fine, an.i the wind *.,..:,g to North Weft, it was judged proper to make Wymoa-B y Acou, wh,ch we d.d, and came to anchor about eleven o'clock about two males to the Eaftward of our old f.tuation. in twenty: five ■ ■.■''fmf^■h■ •^' 'S . i iiS , 1787- February. A VOYAGE TO THE five fathom water, over a fondy bottom ; the extremes of the land from South Eail by Eaft to Weft three auarters North. On the 31ft, we moored with both bowers, determhihig to ftay here whilii the weather permitted, this bay being greatly preferable to the road at Oncchow ; and as it was yet too foon by fix weeks for lis to think of profecuting our Voyage to the Northward, the objeas of our prefent concern were to ftation the veflels where they could lie with moft fafety, and at the fame time, where the heft fupply of provifions and water could be procured j on thefe latter accounts, if we except the article of yams, Atoui was by far the moft defirable fituation now within our reach. From the ift to the 8th of February, we had light variable winds, with fine moderate weather. The veflbls now laying much nearer to each other than before, we frequently were favoured with Abbenoue's company j with the help of a few prefents, he be- came our very good friend, and we frequently found the good eff'eas of his influence, which was not a little, in getting our various wants fupplied. Abbenoue is of a middle fize, and appears to be about fifty years old • when we firft faw him at Oneehow, his body was almoft covered with a white fcurf, and his eyes feemed weak, occafioned by an immoderate ufe of the Ava 5 but he then difcontinued the drinking it at our requeft. The good efFeas of th.s mode- ration were vifibly feen, for his ficin began to refume its former colour, his eyes looked frefli and lively, and he had altogether the appearance of health and vigour. He has a fon named Tyheira, whofe authority feemed pretty extenfive, and who kerned equally folicitous to render us friendly offices -, but he was far ^ ■^ from NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from poflefling the aaivity or intelligent powers of his father, nor was his fiiendfhip of the fame free, difmterefted kind, all his aetions evidently being influenced by mercenary, interefted views • and to effectually fecure his attachment, it was fometimes neceflkry to have recourfe to a bribe, and he would accept of a fmall toe, or even a nail^ fooner than mifs a Matano, or prefent. Befides the friendly offices of Abbenoue and Tyheira, we had frequent vifits from two other Chiefs, who frequently fupplied us with hogs and vegetables j their names were Toetoe, and Nomaitahaite ; but the latter was always known by us under the denomination of Long- flianks, from his being remarkably tall and thin, and his legs and thighs appearing too long for his body. Toetoe is well advanced in years, and appears greatly debiUtated by the immoderate ufe of Ava, but unlike Abbenoue, he cannot form a refolution to leave it off He appears to poffefs a very large portion of taro plantations, and fupphed us with larger quantities of that root, than any of the other Chiefs, and was always perfeftly Iktisfied with whatever was offered him in return. Long.fhanks alfo, was very affiduous in fupplying our wants ; and though his authority is greatly inferior to that of Abbenoue or Toetoe, yet we found him extremely ufeful on many occafions • thongh ,t muft be confeffed, that like Tyheira, he was mercenary m his demands, and continually begging fomcthing or other, by way of Matano. I had forgot to obferve, that we had been fre- quently viiited by a brother of the King, who always came in a hne large double canoe, attended by a number of inferior Chiefs • but, whether traffic was reckoned beneath his dignity, or from I know not what motive, he feldom brought any thing with him to di pole of , fo that cr.riofity, no doubt, principally induced him to Vint us. His daughter, a fine child about feven years old, generally came ifi i 119 1787. February. :..■•»' i; ■*!.« i m |, 11 " ' i i' i 1 ) ' 1 ii ,2^ A VOYAGE TO THE ,787. along with him ; he treated her with a fondnefs truly paternal. February, carrying her for the moft part in his arms, and when fatigued, his ' ' attendants anxioudy ftrove which fliould have the honour of bear- ing little Mifs, till the father again reaflumed his pretty charge. On expreffing a-defire to come on board, fhe was handed over the fide with the utmoft care, and when on board, was never fuffered to ftand on the deck, but always kept in the arms of her father, or one of the attendants, who, we underftood, was a relation. Cap- tain Dixon made her a prefent of a bead Eraie, or necklace, with which flie was wonderfully pleafed. The attention and tendemefs fhewn to this little girl, fo totally Klifferent from what we had hitherto feen, gave us an idea of the manner in which the female children of the Arees are treated, and may ferve to throw fome light on the general charaaer of thefe pcoplt. For fome days we were fupplied by the Chiefs I have juft men- tioned, with a few hogs, taro, &c. fufEcient, as they thought, for our daily confumption j none of the petty Chiefs, or common people coming near us. Abbenoue informed us, that the people were tabooed, and that nobody durft bring any thing to fell, not even water, till the King had paid us a vifit, which he propofed to do very fliortly. We never could learn the true caufe of this taboo being laid on, and which it feems did not extend to the principal Chiefs 5 though if we compare it to the fame fituation at Whahoo, under fimilar circumftances, there is good reafon to fuppofe, that it is done in order to exaa fome tribute or acknowledgment from the people, for the privilege of trading with us. On NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA: On the jth of February, the King paid us his promifed vif.t. 1787. He came in a large double canoe, attended by a number of Chiefs ^"'''"'" >• exclufive of the men who pad he ,s a goo. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 .^ # ^ a\ \ ,V \ % "^^ o'^ \ •^0 fA 6^ 124 A VOYAGE TO THE. ': i 'f'W 1 It « If " r I all fllili I ill 5'fl 1787. We landed clofe by the frefh water river I mentioned when we February. ^^.^ ^^^^ ^.^ anchor at this ifland, and which bore nearly North Eaft from the lliips. Before we walked into the country, Abbenoue took us to a place hard by, in order to fhew us what was preparing for our dinner. We here found fome of his fervants cleaning a very fine liog, which he told us was to be baked, together with Ibme taro ; and that he hoped there would be arouarou, or, great plenty. We aflured him there would be quite fufficient for us all, which feemed to pleafe him greatly ; and he cautioned us not to walk too far, as dinner would be ready by twelve o'clock : this he explained by pointing to the fun ; after which, Abbenoue left the management of the feaft to Tyheira, as he wanted to be on board thelhips. Having frequently heard our people who had been on fhore fpeak of a village, called by the natives A Tappa, where a great number of people were commonly employed in manufa6luring cloth, curi- ofity prompted me to walk to that place firft, as I found it was not more than three miles diftant, fo that I could eafily get back by Tyheira's dinner-time. . Great numbers of the inhabitants crouded about us, when we firft landed, but our people walking different ways, juft as fancy or inclination led them, the natives were divided into different parties, and I was very little incommoded in my walk. One man was particularly affiduous in rendering me any little fervices j he not only offered to fliew me the way to A Tappa, but to attend me the whole day, for a large nail : though I fully expe6ted him to run away from me after he got his nail, which he ftipulated to receive before we fet out, yet I determined to try him, and at the fame time endeavoured to fecure his fidelity, by pro- mifing him a Matano in the evening. The i... NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. The country, from the place where we landed to A Tappa is tolerably level, and for the fpace of two miles, very dry. The foil here IS a light red earth, and with proper cultivation, would pro- duce excellent potatoes, or any thing that fuits a dry foil .• but at prefent It IS entirely covered with long coarfe grafs : the inhabi- tants, I fuppofe, finding plenty of ground near their habitations more coiiveniently fituated for their various purpofes. So far the fpace from the beach to the foot of the mountains, is about' two miles in breadth 5 but from hence to A Tappa, it grows gradually narrower, till it terminates in a long fandy point, which I have already obferved, is the Weft extreme of Wymoa Bay. A Tappa is a pretty large village, fituated behind a long row of cocoa-nut trees, which afford the inhabitants amoft excellent fheU ter from the fcorching heat of the noon-day fun. Amongft thefe cocoa-trees is a good deal of wet fwampy ground, which is well laid out m plantations of taroand fugar-cane. I had laid my account in feeing their method of manufaauring: cloth ; but here I was miftaken ^ a number of our people, prompt- ed by the fame curiofity as myfelf, were got to A Tappa before me where " Labour ftood fufpended as we pafled." The people flocked eagerly about us; fome alking us to repofe ourfelves under the fliady branches of trees planted about their doors ; others running to the trees for cocoa-nuts, and prefenting them to us with every mark of kuidnefs and good-nature, in fliort, every inhabitant of the village was fully employed, either in relieving oui- wants, or gratifying their cuiiofity in looking at us. Whilft a party of us were bufied at the door of one of thefe kind ftrangers, I heard a rattling of ftones, as if thrown with violence . and 125 r ebruai y. mM} mm m • m .126 1787. February. A VOYAGE TO THE and at the kme moment all the natives ran away from us with pre- cipitation. On turning about, I faw Tyheira coming towards us j it feems he was afraid that the people would be troublefome by crouding about us, and on that account he took this method of driving them away. This was the moft convincing proof I had hitherto feen, of the very great power the Arees have over the common people. Any of the Hones thrown by Tyheira were at leaft fufficient to have lamed any one they might happen to hit j yet the natives bore it with the moft patient fubmifllon. Tyheira informed us, that by the time we got back to our land- ing-place, dinner would be ready. For this piece of intelligence, we were obliged to him -, but he prefently fpoiled all, by foliciting very earneftly for a Matano : however, it was not worth while to refufe him, fo he coUedted fix or eight nails, which fatisfied him very well for the prefent. The day being veiy fultry, we walked leifurely back, and I re- lumed by a different path from that I had taken, in going to A Tappa. On examining the grafs, which in moft places is higher than the knee, I found it not altogether of a rough coarfe fort, but intermixed with various forts of flowers, together with different graffes, of the meadow kind ; fo that I have no doubt, with proper management, it would make excellent hay. By the time I got on the beach, dinner was nearly ready, and a large houfe, which Ab- benoue had for flowing away his canoes, was appropriated for our reception. Duiing this time, Tyheira was bufily employed in colleding our people together, which having done, he ordered dinner to be ferved up. It would have excited the laughter of a tavern-cook, in no P NOHTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fmall degree, had he feen our dinner brought in ; and I can afTure , thee, the fight added greatly to my entertainment.. There were no lefs than four fervants concerned in this bufi- nefs, one orought ma large calabafh of water; another, a parcel of cocoa-nuts, athnd. abowlfull of fine baked taro; andthelafV ufl.ered m by Tyhe,ra himfelf, brought the hog, laid very decently on a large cu'cular wooden difh. This done, the laft man who appeared to be the head cook, poured fome water over the ho. and rubbed It with his hands, letting us underftand, that by thi^ means he fhould make excellent gravy. This part of the cere mony we could well have difpenfed with, but it could not be avoided, without offending our hoft ; and indeed our appetites, at this time were not remarkably delicate ; for my own part, I eat an exceeding hearty dinner, and I beli..e moft of the par^y fol- lowed my example. All this time, Tyheira's attendants were ready to open cocoa-nuts for us, whenever we required to quench our thirft, and in fliort, pad every attention we could have expected had we dined at a guinea ordiaary. I ^^^1I take an opportunity of defcribing their method of cookin. hereafter 3 this I can tell thee, that the hog was done to a tuT^ cooks phrafe It : the taro much better baked than we could uoit bbr do It on board . and the whole repafl, (if we except the mfth d of mak ng gravy) was managed with a degree of decency and clean: hnefs, htt e to be expefled in a place fo very remote from civih ed efinemen s and where nature and neceffity alone have furniiled the uteniils for preparations of this fort. "nunca. After dinner I was determined to make an excurfion in a dif ferent part ot the country to that where I had been in the mornin 127 787. February. II i s ■ 1 ■ I ^1 '6 »• andi 128 A VOYAGE TO THE 1 7S7. and the valley along the river fide feemhig to promife the greateft February. ^^^.'^Q^y ^f ^ny part Within my reach, I fixed on that for my after- noon's ramble. • When I got on the banks of the river, one of the natives was paddUng backwards and forwards in a fmall canoe, feemingly for his amufement : on this it occurred to me, that a cruize by water would be an agreeable variety, and perhaps give me an opportunity of feeing part of the country on the oppofite fhore, and more efpe- cially, as on the fide of the hill diredly facing me, there was a high wooden pile, feemingly of a quadrangular form, which I wilhed to examine. A couple of nails engaged my new waterman, and he took me with pleafure for a paflenger. I could not prevail on the man to land me near the place I have juft been fpeaking of ; he gave me to underfl:and, that the pile I was defirous to fee was a Morai, or place where they buried their dead, and that he durft not go near it. Being difappoin<-ed in my expe£latlon of examining this burying place, I diredled the man to paddle leifurely up the river, that I might have an opportunity of viewing the furrounding profpetls which prefented themfelves to me, though thefe are very confined, • the valley being not more than a mile over, in its wideft part, and narrowing gradually as you advance higher up. The river is not one hundred yards over, in the wideft part, but In many places much narrower ; it glides along in a fmooth pel- lucid ftream, fcarcely perceptible, though this, I fliould imagine, is not the cafe in rainy weather, as the Eaftern fliore is fteep and rocky. Thefe \w NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ftraTa of Tr t™ T *" J" " ^''" '""^""' '"'"'"^ -"^ a thin ftiata of the l,ght red eaith I have before fpoke of, and which I doubt not .s wafted into ti,e river beneath by every hafty ftowe of .am , fo that, the water of this river is frequently muddy, and US ftream rap.d , hov- far it branches out into'the ifland, I c nnot try. that its fomce is derived nearly from the center of the ifland" ■ ^^''lu^'J^'^ '"'°'''*'' ^^'"'' ''""'^ ""'k up the river, my man. jumped haft,lyo«t of the canoe, withoutgivingme the leaft no™ bywh.chmeans:.„asnearbeingupfet. Iw^ not alarmed at^hs' cumftance ,s ,he water was not out of my depth, but I wa ather furpnfed to hear Berr., Berre. called aloud, by a voic whTch Iha fome knowledge of: on lookinground,lfawo/eofthnlet makmgha& y towards us, through the water, and the fame mo ment recogmzed the man I engaged to attend me in the ZIZ I had mdred h™ dunng dinner time, and no. feeing him aftef wards concluded he had left me, but it feems the llatan" had prom,fed h.m. operated fo powerfully, that he had watched mv motions the whole afternoon, and now took an opponuniTy "o remmd me of h.s diligence in attending me, and his concer^for my welfare whilft on the water. My waterman (if I may fo call the man who belonged to tlie canoe now got mto her, and we proceeded up the river f he jum,^ aft" B°v tCt ^'^ '""'TT' "'"^'■' ^'"S "caky, fte ^ade^r^ T.J^ "* ^ ""'^"^ '^°"' •'^° ">!'« up- =he rivei he afternoon was pretty far fpent , this mademe think of return- mg, efpecially as the valley which lies to the Weft of the rive" 129 Febri-ary. H The 130 1787. February. J' A VOYAGE TO THE The land on the Eaft fide of the river is here much eafier of accefs, than down at the Morai ; fo that I might have taken a walk into that part of the country, had time permitted. This, however, not being the cai'e, 1 was obliged not only to relinquifh that, but alfo my original intention, of tracing the river to its fource, though from what I could difcern, the pallage is not fufficiently level for canoes much farther up the country than where I was at prefent, and which may be called about two miles from the fea-fide. Having difmifTed the canoe, I went towards a ftrDggling village, at a fmall diftance from the river ; here I met feveral of our people, who had walked up the valley amongft the plantations. Some of them had been a confiderable diftance farther up, but jione fo far as the river head > they confirmed me, however, in my conjedure, that it was not navigable for canoes more than half a mile higher up. We learnt that this village was the place of Abbenoue's refi- dence, and were fliewn feveral houfes which belonged to him ; but that he had not been on fliore fince the morning, having been all the day with Popote, or Captain Portlock. There are a number of houfes fcattered here and there all the way, from this village to the beach ; and as we walked leifurely along, the inhabitants were continually prcffing us to ftop a while, and repofe ourfelves under the trees, which generally grow about their habitations. It was evident that this was not done merely to gratify a wild impatient curiofity, but proceeded from a kindnefs and good-natured hofpitality, which did them infinite credit. A heart-felt joy was vifihly feen in the countenance of any one whofe houfe I NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,3, houfe we happened to flop at, and the whole family would croud .787. about us, bringing cocoa-nuts to quench our thirft, fanning fuch ^'^^""'•y- of us as feemed fotigued with walking, and in fliort, feduloufly en- '""'"^ deavounng to render us eveiy kind office in their power. The valley all the way we walked along to the beach, is entirely planted with taro j and thefe plantations are laid out with a great deal of judgment. The ground is very low, and the taro grounds are entirely cover- ed with water, and furrounded with trenches, fo that they can ather be drained, or frefli watered, from the river at pleafure They are laid out in a variety of forms, according to the fancy of the different owners, whofe various fhares are marked with the mofl fcrupulous exaftnefs : thefe are interfefted at convenient dif- tances by raifed foot-paths, about two feet wide. I fliould obferve that thefe plantations range entirely along the river-fide, and the houfes I have been fpeaking of are fituated to the Weflward of the extreme path. The trees, which are pretty numerous about the houles, are generally the cloth mulberry. The houfes, and whatever elfe I faw worthy of notice, fliall be the fubjea of a future letter ; at prefent I fhall clofe the fubjed by obferving, that whether we regard the found judgment and (I had almoft faid fcientiric) fidll with which thefe -rounds arc laid out, or the clofe attention and unremitting diligence fliewn in their cultivation, in either of thefe points of view, they would refled credit even on a Britijh hufbandman. By the time we got to the beach, the day was far fpent ; our boat was already come for us, and lay at anchor mucli in theVame fituation i !> l- %j> I * i •~9 J ■ I ' ■ • SH' '1' ._. k' : 1 ' l|it Fcbruar)'. A VOYAGE TO THE fituation as in the morning. Great numbers of the natives were colle6led together on the beach j many to take their leave of us, and others were very importunate for a Matano, amongft whom was the man I engaged to attend me in the morning : he got two nails from me, with which he was perfeftly fatisfied, a poor reward, tliou wilt fay, for a long, wcarifome day's attendance ! However, it ferved to remind me of thofe good old Englifh times, when the diligent labourer had the alternative of a penny, or a peck of wheat for his day's hire. Abbenoue's people attended witli their canoes, to paddle us through the furf to our boat, as in the morning, and we got fafe on board foon after fun-fet. The pleafure I experienced during this day's excurfion, is infi- nitely fuperior to any thing of the kind I ever met with j and if this imperfect account gives thee the lead fatisfadlion, it will ftill heighten that of thy allured friend, \V. B. Atoui, ? nth Feb, 5 LETTER NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. '33 LETTER XXVII. February. HAVING given thee an account of my excurfion at Atoui I fhall now return to our tranfaaions on boaid. Towards the 8th of February, the weather grew clofe and fultrv attended with a good deal of lightning. I„ the night of the oth, a ft-eHi breeze fprung up from the Southward; and at five o'clock the next morning, we parted our fmall bower cable twenty-one fathom from the anchor. We mil had a ftrong Southerly breeze, and an increafing fwell fo that any efforts to recover our anchor would have been ineffec- tual i all that we could do at prefent was to leave two or three buoys as near as we could guefs where the anchor lay, the buoy which was ftreamed when we came to anchor being funk. During the afternoon and evening of the loth. our fituation wag verydifagreeable: the weather was very fqually, with thunder, lightmng, and heavy rain, the wind blowing ftrong at South Weft and South South Weft; fo that if neceffity had forced us to flip our cable, there was no probability of clearing the land. In the afternoon of the nth, the wind veered to the Weftward, and grew more moderate, which lowered the fwell greatly. Though the fea ran very high, our friend Long-fhanks came off to us this atternoon, bringing fome taro along with him ; he did not fail to ' magnify n 'in hj tm^ Wv\ !< 1787. February. AVOYAGETOTHE magnify this piece of fervlce, and was rewarded accordingly, though wc were not without roots, having luckily bought a large quantity of taro before the bad weather came on. The weather being fo exceedingly unpromifing, it was deter- mined to leave this place ; fo at three o'clock in the morning of the 1 2th, Captain Portlock making fignal, we weighed anchor, and made fail, ftretching to the Southward with a light breeze at North Weft. From the 12th to the 15th, we kept plying towards Oneehow, but were prevented from making it, by light variable winds. During this time, we had^lofe, fultry, cloudy weather. In the forenoon of the i6th, a freih breeze fpringing up at North Eaft, we ftood right for Oneehow j and in the afternoon, came to anchor in Yam Bay, in twenty-nine fathom water, over a fandy bottom j the extremes of the bay bore from South 20 deg. Eaft to North 15 deg. Eaft ; the body of Oreehoura North 40 deg. Eaft ; and Tahoura South 30 deg. Weft, about two miles diftant from fhore. Our grand objea at this place was to recover the anchors which Captain Portlock left here j fo at day-break in the morning of the 17th, the boats from both fhips were fent to fearch for them : fortunately the weather was moderate, and the fea tolerably fmooth, fo that by two o'clock in the afternoon, the King George had got both her anchors on board, which was a moft lucky circumftance, and more efpecially, as the anchor we had left at Atoui might almoft be given over for loft. During I- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,,, During this time, we were bufily employed on board, in pur- ,787 chafing yams and water from the natives, who had attended us Tcbrua'ry. pretty numeroully, and brought a good quantity of yams, which ''^'^ proved a veiy feafonable fupply, moft of our roots being expended. About three o'clock in the afternoon, the wind fliifting to the Southward, we weighed anchor, and ftretched towards the North Weft, intending, fliould Southerly winds continue, to make Atoui through the paffage by Oreehoura, and try to recover our anchor * but we now had frefh reafon to fuppofe, that the wind near thefe . iflands IS always variable j for from the 17th to the 23d, we had light variable winds, ficquent calms intervening, fo that we ke ' ftanding to the Northward and Eaftward, making longer or fhorter boards, as occafion required. Atoui generally bore about South South Eaft, and Oneehow, South Weft. Whilft we were plying in this uncertain ftate, we had an oppor- tunity of viewing the North Coaft of Atoui, or that part of the ifland direaiy oppofite Wymoa Bay. The ftiore down to the wa- ter's edge, is in general mountainous, and difficult of accefs : I could not fee any level ground, or the leaft fign of this part of the ifland being inhabited, at kai\ by any confiderable number of peo- ple } fo that there is every reafon to fuppofe the South fide of the ifland contains neariy the whole of the inhabitants. (■ During the 24th and 25th, we had moderate weather, and gene- rally light winds ; a frefli bieeze at Eaft North Eaft fometimes intei-vening. In the morning of the 26th, we worked through the paflkge between Oreehoura and Atoui. At noon, the extremes of the latter 136 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. latter ifland bore from North to North 58 deg. Eaft; and Onee- March. how Weft, 8 deg. South. In the afternoon, and the whole of the 27th, we had frefh vari- able breezes; but the forenoon of the 28th, being fine, and the wind blowing a moderate breeze from the Eaftward, we came to anchor in Wymoa Bay, in thirty-feven fathom water, over a fandy bottom. Our motive for <^oming to this place was to fearch for our anchor, and the whale-boat was immediately hoifted out for that purpofe J but all our endeavours were ineffeftual, though we had taken exaft bearings of the place where it was loft, and the water was tolerably fmooth : the buoys we had left were either drifted away, or ftolen by the natives.. The weather during the ift of March was moderate and fine, fa that we hoped to procure a fupply of hogs and vegetables ; but the inhabitants we found we:e tabooed, and nobody came near us except a few of the inferior Chiefs, who brought us a fmall quan- tity of taro. We had reafon to fuppofe, from every information we were able to procure, that the King grew tired of us, and had tabooed the people, in order to prevent any refreftiments being brought on board the veflels, thinking from our frequent vifits, that we in- tended to fettle at Atoui : indeed appearances might warrant a fuppofiticn of this kind. We had repeatedly anchored on their coafti cruized backwards and forwards, in fight of their ifland ^ anchored there again ; and, in ftiort, been long enough amongft them I NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^37 w them to encourage a fuppofition, that we wifhed to fix our abode 1787 at this defirable fpot. March. If thefe motives aftually induced Tiara to taboo the inhabitants and I make no doubt but they did, it confirms what I have dready faid, refpeamg his good fenfe and penetration j nay, the moft refined pohtician could not take a bettor method to drive away any unwelcome intruders, and whom at the fame time he could not openly quarrel with, than by Jiarving them out— But to return : The wind on the 2d fliifting to the Wellrward, we weighed anchor at eight o'clock in the evening, and ftood out to fea ; it was very fortunate for us that we did fo, for the next day proved very fqually, with heavy rain ; the wind nearly South Weft. At noon Atoui bore from North North Eaft to North 25 deg Weft • and Oneehow from North 60 deg. Weft to 80 deg. Weft; aboit fix leagues diftant. The afternoon proving thick and foggy, we loft fight of both iflands. The fame foggy weather continued during the 4th and 5th, with ftrong Wefterly gales of wind, and heavy rain, attended with a very heavy crofs fea : this made us judge it moft prudent to lay to, as we were not certain how the currents fet, and were unwilling to ftand out far from the land. In the morning of the 5th, we faw Atoui, which bore from Weft to Weft South Weft ; and Whahoo, South South Eaft Towards the afternoon, the weather grew moderate, and the peo- pic were employed in getting in a new jigger-maft, the old one benig carried away : fome iron work being required, the aimourer was bufily employed about it, when a fuddcn roll of tiie fliip • ^ th]-cw r 138 1787-. March. Mi m A VOYAGE TO THE threw his anvil over- board. This was looked on as a very bad accident, as we had few toes ready made, and we knew they would be Angularly ufeful in our future traffic. During the ,6th and 7th, we had frefli Wefterly breezes. In the morning of the 7th, Captain Dixon went on board the King George, and on his return, we fteered Eaft South Eaft, our Cap- tains having determined, if the wind kept to the Southward and Weftward, to make Owhyhee ; but all hopes of this fort quickly vaniflied, for in the foi-enoon of the 8th, the wind veered to Eaft North Eaft. During the 9th and loth, we plied to windward, cxpeftlng to find the wind ftill variable ; but it now feemed fet in for a con- ftant fteady trade, fo that in the forenoon of the i itii, we gave up any intention of making Owhyhee, and ftretched again to the South Weft. Being favoured with a brifk, fteady, Eafterly breeze, early in the afternoon, we were within two miles of the North Weft fide of Whahoo. On feeing a fmall village a little to the Weftward, we lay to about three hours, expefting the inhabitants would bring us fomehogs and vegetables, and more efpecially, as this was a part of the ifland we had not been near before, but we had only two fmall canoes came near us, and they bringing little or nothing, at five ^o'clock we made fail, and ftood to the Weftward. The extremes of Whahoo now bore from South 50 deg. Eaft, to South 35 dcg. Weft; diftant about three leagues. Excepting the fmall village I have juft mentioned, the North fide of Whahoo appears to be uninhabited ; neither is there any good flicker for a veflel NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. >a9 veflel to anchor in ; the fhare is generally fteep and mountainous, 1787. and in that refped a good deal refembles the North fide of Atoui. ^'^, At {even o'clock in the morning of the 12th, we faw Atoui, and at noon, we were within a few miles of our anchoring birth, in Wymoa Bay. The weather was very fine, with a moderate Eaft- erly breeze. We ftood on under an eafy fail, expeaing the natives would brmg us fome refreOiments, but not a fingle canoe appeared m the bay : this fufficiently confirmed our former opinion, that the King was determined to ftarve us from the ifland. At fix o'clock the extremes of Atoui bore from North 10 deg. Weft, to North 56 deg. Eaft ; and the North end of Oneehaw, from Weft to Weft by South. All hopes of procuring any quantity of hogs were now given up and the only thing we waited for, previous to the profecutioa of our Voyage to the Northward, was a fupply of yams from Onee- how, which entirely depended on our meeting with a fteady Eaftedy wind. ^ During the 13th, we had light variable winds i towards the evening, the iky grew black and lowering ; the air was exceeding clofe and fultry, and the night was almoft one continued ftorm of heavy rain, attended with violent thunder and lightning. Light airs, and intervening calms, attended us the greateft part of the 14th ; but about fix o'clock in the afternoon, a frefh breeze fprung up at Eaft North Eaft, on which we hauled our wind to the South- ward during the night, expeaing at day-break to bear away for Oneehowi but at fix o'clock in the morning of the 15th, the wind ihifting to Eaft South Eaft, Captain Portlock hauled his wind, contrary to our expeaation, and fteered North Eaft. At noon! tile i'Mii ■•Ik ■-:«£ i ,#?i A VOYAGE TO THE the extremes of Atoui bore from North to North 35 deg. Weft. During the day, we had a fine breeze at South Eaft, and clear wea- ther. Our latitude at noon was 21 deg. 29 min. North, and 159 deg. Weft longitude. At fix o'clock, the North Eaft end of Atoui bore North 42 deg. Weft, thirteen leagues diftant ; and the body of Whahoo Eaft. The breeze continued fteady all night ; and in the morning of the i6th, being quite clear of all the iflands, we fteered due North, with a brilk Southerly gale. Thus have we left thefe iflands a fecond time, and are now ftanding for the American Coaft, on the pinnacle of expeftation. My next fliall be an account of our paflage thither. Adieu. W. B. Off Atoui, 7 ' 1 6th March. J LETTER XXVIII. BEFORE I proceed with my account of our paflage to the North Weft Coaft, let me fay a few words refpeding our departure from Oneehow, at a time when what we had been ftriv- ing for weeks to obtain, was apparently within our reach. As the weather in the night of the 14th, and during the 15th of March, was moderate and clear, attended with a favourable Eafterly breeze, which would have enabled us to come to at Onee- how i'ff ! NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. how with eafe, and as a fupply of yams, which we were morally certain of procuring there, would have been highly ferviceable, it may feem ftrange that Captain Portlock fhould ftand to the North- ward at the moment when his every wifh appeared eafy to be ac- comphfhed : but it (hould be remembered, that the weather pre- vious to this time, had been very unfettled, and indeed we had ever found It fo at Oneehow, that fhould we not meet with contrary wmds, there was every probabihty of our being becalmed under the land, which would be attended with confequences equally dif- agreeable, as it began to be high time for us to fail to the North- ward, in order to make up, if poffible, for the deficiencies of laft feafon : however, be all this as it may, the event proved this ftep to be extremely judicious, for the wind veering to the Southward as o tv%f O 'r'^'^ V"^' have rendered' impraaicablet; u to lay at Oneehow. To return now to our Voyage. During the former part of the 17th, we had aflrong Southerly breeze with frequent fhowers of rain. In the afternoon, the wind grew light and variable. The night was fqually, attended with thunder, lightning, and conflant rain. So^htZT^ "^- '!"" \^'^' "' ^'^ ' ^^^^y sale of wind at South South Eaft, with a heavy fwell, and conftant rain. This was the firft fair gale we had met with fince our leaving England. The gale continued during the day and greateft part of the night, which being very dark, we lay to, and made fail at five o'clock in the morning of the 19th, the weather being pretty moderate. Our latitude at noon was 27 deg. 24 min. North ; and the longitude ijSdeg. i7min. Weft. "" 141 1787. March. irr From 14^ 1787. Mardi4 A VOYAGE TO THE From this to the 23d, we had little variety, the wind fre(h and variable, with cloudy weather. Our latitude at noon on the 2 2d, was 29 deg. lo min. North ; and the longitude being the mean of ieveral fets of lunar obfervations, 158 deg. 27 min. Weft. On the 24th and 25th, we had frequent fqualls, attended with rain ; the wind lifting from Eaft South Eaft to South South Weft i the weather thick and foggy. The 26th was moderate. Our latitude at noon was 34 deg. 59 min. North; and our longitude 159 deg. 30 min. Weft. Con- trary to our expeaation, the fog cleared up on tlie 27th, and we had clear, moderate weather, with a fine Southerly breeze, which continued till the 29th, in the evening, when a frelh gale of wmd came on from the Weftward, with frequent ftiowers of ram, and thick foggy weather. We have conftantly remarked, that South Wefterly winds, in thefe latitudes, viz. from 30 to 60 deg. North, never fail to bring thick fogs along with them. In the morning of the 31ft, the weather grew moderate. Our latitude at noon was 39 deg. 23 min. North; and the longitude IC4 deg. 23 min. Weft. During the afternoon, we had light variable airs, and cloudy weather. Towards the evening we faw feveral puffins, and a young feal came along-fide, which clearly indicated, that land could not be far off: indeed when we failed laft to the Northward, and nearly in the fame fituation, we were convinced, fi'om fimilar circumftances, that there muft be land not many leagues from us ; but it was our misfortune, both at that time, and the prefent, to have fuch thick, foggy weather, that ha.1 we failed within ten miles of high land, we fliould have pafled it unfeen. * -^ From I NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. From the ifl to the 4th of April, we had little variety -, the wind generally blew freHi from South South Eaft to South Weft • the weather wet and hazy. Our latitude at noon, on the 3d, was 44 deg. 4 mm Norths and the longitude 151 deg. 59 min. Weft. The nights bemg very dark, we generally lay to, and made fail iii the mornmg at day- break. On the 7th, at noon, our latitude was 47 deg. 21 min. North - and the longitude 148 deg. 39 min. Weft; we faw feveral gulls' ■ciivers, and various other fpecies of birds ; fea-weeds alfo frequently palled us. * -^ In the afternoon of the &th, we had a fea-lion playing about the veffel. From the 5th to the 9th, the wind was light, and chiefly to the Northward ; but yi the morning of the 9th, it ihifted to South Weft, with moderate weather, fqualls of hail and fleet fometimes intervening. Our latitude at noon, on tlie 1 2th, was< 52 deg. 46 min. North j and the longitude, being the mean of fome lunar obfervations, 145 deg. 43 min. Weft. From this to the i6th, we had little variety j frefli variable winds and frequent fqualls of fnow and fleet intervening. We here found the variation of the compafs 19 deg. Eafteily. The weather was fevercly cold,, the thermometer on the 16th being at 25 deg. whicli IS two and half lower than it ever was during Captain Cook's laft Voyage, though he failed as fai" as 72 deg. North latitude. On the 16th, at noon, our latitude was 58 deg. 9 min. North • ^nd the longitude 149 deg. 23 min. Weft. From this to the i8tl/ the weather w.s fo thick and hazy, that we were not able to get an ob-ervation ; and as it was impoffible to fee land at any dif- tancq, HJ ■i <* ifeiij 0\ 3 'li mi -*i 1^1 Ir its. ^ i^Iu' ifc' r* S^iTl^ |£ ''4 m ft A'; i "" ■'■? / ■;/. M -■' i i •X44 1787. April. A VOYAGE TO THE tance, we plied occafionally, it being uncertain how far we were from the American Coaft. In the afternoon of the i8th, we had a fudden fquall from the Weftward ; but our fails being handed in time, we did not receive the leaft damage. The wind blew a frefh gale the greateft part of the night; but in the forenoon of the 19th, it moderated, and the weather grew clear enough for us to get a meridian altitude, which .gave S7 deg. 41 min. North latitude. From the 20th to the 22d, we had thick hazy weather, with frequent fqualls, and almoft conftant fnow and (leet, the wmd -generally blowing frefh at South Baft, and South South Eaft. Our latitude, by account at noon on the 22d, was 59 deg. i mm. North. This made us ply with caution, as we were certam the coaft could not be far off; and the weather was fo very hazy, that we could not fee land a league from tlie veflel. In the morning of tlie 23d, the weather grew tolerably clear. Our latitude at noon was 59 deg. 9 min. and the longitude 147 deg. cc min. Weft, being the mean of two fets of lunar obfervations. At one o'clock we faw land, bearing from North Eaft by North to Weft, ten leagues diftant. At feven in the evening, we perceived the land to the Weftward to be Foot Ifland, and that to the Eaft- ward, Montague Ifland ; fo that we were ftanding well for the pafTao-e into Prince William's Sound, which we in vain attempted to make^ when laft on this coaft. At fun-fet, the entrance bore North 14 deg. Eaft ; and the South Eaft part of Montague Iftand North 32 de-. Eaft, about five leagues diftant. The wind being light and vadablc, wc ftretched to the Eaftward during the night ; J^d m tlie morning of the 24th, a moderate breeze fpringing up from NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. from the Wellward, we fet all fail, and ftood right in for the paf- fagc. At noon we were right in the entrance of the channel. Our obfervation gave 59 deg. 47 min. North latitude j and the longitude was 147 deg. 52 min. Weft. This place is laid down in Captain Cook's general chart, in 59 deg. 36 min. North latitude, which is eleven miles to the South- ward of our obfervation, on which account, our gentlemen were particularly correa: in taking their altitudes, and being favoured with a remarkably clear horizon, were able to determine the lati- tude to a certainty. This convinced Captain Dixon of the error in the chart above-mentioned, and evidently fliewed, that the lati- tude had been fettled by angles carried on from the fun's meridian altitude at a diftance. The land in this fituation bore from North 34 deg. Weft to North by Eaft ; Green Iflands North ; diftant from the South Eaft point of Montague Ifland two miles. The breeze dying away in the afternoon, and there being no probability of our reaching the Sound, we ftood into a deep bay, which now opened to the Eaft- ward, and let go an anchor about five o'clock, in twenty- four fathom water, over a muddy bottom ; the extremes of the land bearing from North Weft to South Weft. Once more are we arrived at the bufy fcene of a6lion ; and here I will take my leave of thee for the prefent, with a fmcere wifli, that we may not verify the old adage, " The mountains labour," &c. Thhie ever, W. P. Montague Island, 1 25th April. ]■ H5 LET- itTn m 146 1787. April. A VOYAGE TO THE LETTER XXIX. I LEFT thee at the conclufion of my laft, immediately on our coming to anclior. and I doubt not by this time, thou art impa- tient to be acquainted with our proceedings. As I know nothing more difagreeable than a ftate of fufpence, I will immediately en- deavour to relieve thee from it, in the beft manner I can. It feems, Captain Portlock's motive for coming to anchor, as already mentioned, was a fight of two canoes, at fome diftance up the bay, which gave him reafon to expecl meeting with inhabitants, and confequently that fome bufinefs might be done ; a thing we were moft particularly anxious about, as this, our laft feafon, was already flipping away. In the evening of the 24th, five canoes came along-fide us, but brought no furs, or traffic of any kind. They faluted us by ex- tending their arms, and a frequent repetition of the word Laukigh, generally laying a great emphafis on the latter fy liable. This we imderftood as a friendly falutation, and returned it by fimilar gef- ticulations, and a repetition of the word Lauleigh. On our en- quiry for NotooneJJmck, which is the name they ufe for fea otter's flcin, they immediately pointed towards Prince William's Sound, repeating the words " Nootka Notoonejhuck" plenty, very frequently, and in the moft earneft manner. Some dogs we had on board, hearing ftrangers about the fliip, ran upon the gun-walc, and began to bark at them, on which the Indians direftly called out, " Towzer, Towzer, here, here," whiftling at the fame time, after 9 the i- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the manner nfcd to coax dogs in England. We were pretty much puzzled to account for thcfe circumftances, though it appeared very evident, from thefc people fpeaking Englifli, and having fome idea of our manners, that an Englifli vefl'cl either lay in the found at the prefent moment, or had been there very recently ; but none of us could guefs at the meaning of Nootka, though they repeated that word much oftener than any of the reft. Thefe canoes were covered with ikins, the fame as we had feen laft feafon in Cook's River : three of them were built for two men each, and the two others held only a fingle perfon. The ears of thefe Indians were ornamented with plenty of fmall blue beads, but thefe, we had reafon to fuppofe, were procured from the Ruffians, as fome knives and iron weapons which they fliewed us, were evidently of Ruflian manufadture. Early in the morning of the 25th, our boats were fent on fliore for wood and water, both which were very eafily procured. In the mean time, our Captains went all round the bay, and examined every adjacent creek and inlet, but found no inhabitants, nor any traces of recent habitations in this part, which made us conclude, that our vifitors were only a hunting party from Prince William's Sound i however, we made them fome trifling prefents, hoping, that it might induce them not only to bring us furs, but alfo en- courage their neighbours to follow their example : they fcemed perfeftly fatisfied with the trifles we gave them, and told us, that they would return foon and bring Notoonefjuck, plenty. We waited till the 28th, with the greateft anxiety, in hopes that the Indians would return io trade with us -, but in this we were difap- H7 1787. April. '"i at^^ 148 ^^i \f\ 1787. April. A VOYAGE TO THE clifappolnted, fo that it was determined to leave this bay the firft fair wind. At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, a breeze fpiinging up at South Weft, we unmoored, and flood out of the bay, but had fcarccly reached the channel, which leads up into the found, when we were becalmed, and the tide being againrt us, we were obliged to get the boats a-head, in order to tow the veflels in again, taking care, however, to come to as near mid-channel as was confiftent with our fafety. At ten o'clock we let go an anchor, in twenty- three fathom water, over a muddy bottom, the extremes of the bay bearing from North 40 deg. Weft to South 39 deg. Weft, a mile diftant from ftiore. The weather during the 30th, was moderate, the wind light and variable ; no Indians came near us, fo that what faint hopes we had hitherto entertained of their return, now entirely vaniihed. This bay abounds with wild geefe and ducks, but they were fo very fhy, that we could rarely come within mufquet fliot of them. There are alfo great numbers of gulls j fome eagles of the white- lieaded fpecies, and great plenty of fmaller birds, of various kinds, fuch as fand-pipers, fnipes, plovers, &c. ice. Our hooks and lines were generally over-board, but the only kind of filh we caught was a fort greatly refembling a flounc^cr, and called by the failors fand-dabs. The other marine produc- tions found here, are mufcles, cockles, clams, crabs, and fta; ^ 'Iv I fliould not omit, that one of our people, in fifliing with hook and line, caught a very remarkable fubjeft, which I fuppofc to be a fpecies of polypus : it feemed to be botli of an animal and vege- table NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. H9 tabic fubftancc, aiul adhered to a fmall Twltdli about three feet jySj, long. May. The wind ftiH continuing light and variable, early in the morn- ing of the ift of May, both our Captains went in the whaie-boais, on a fui-vey, aii.i Captain I'ortlock lett orders with Mr. Macliodto wei^h ancho; during his abffiicc, if tlic wind proved favour '.bio. A number of the people troui both veU'els had lii)eity given '1.0 recreate themi'elves on fliore ; but a biccze connno on at South Weft, at eleven o'clock a fignal was m:ule for the people to come on board. At two o'clock we uinnoored, and made tail, ftanding up the channel towards Piince \\ illiani's Sound. At fix o'clock, being clofe in Ihore, and the wind leffening, we came to anchor iu a bay to the Eaftward, in twenty-one fathom water, over a muddy bottom. At ten o'clock in the evening, our Captains returned; they had met with no furs, and feen but very few Indians, and thofe at a confiderable diftance from the place where we lay. ' Dining the night we had light variable airs ; but at ten in the morning of the 2d, a breeze coming on at South Weil, we wei-hcd and made lliil, ftanding for the channel, betwixt the Greenland Montague Illands. By lix o'clock in the afternoon, the Green lilands were on our larboard beam. This t^affage is dangerous in the night, or in bad weather, the channel not being a mile in the broadeft part free from funken rocks. In t!iis lituation vvc had foundings from twenty-rive to fix fathom water, over a fandy bot- tom. ^ Our breeze dying away, at fcvcn o'clock we let go an anchor, in thirteen fathom water ; but finding we were ntuatcd very near a funk rock, we hove it uj) again, and a light breeze fpringin- up, we were enabled to get into a bay in Montague Ifland. At^nine v) CiCiCil h . M X- ^i i5o 1787. A VOYAGE TO THE o'clock we again came to, in thirteen fathom water, over a muddy bottom, mooring the fliip with the kedge and flream cable. During the greateft part of the 3d, the weather wa« moderate ; but in the night, a ftrong gale of wind came on, at North Weft, which making the veflcl ride very heavy, and labour much, we un- moored Ihip at fix o'clock in the morning of the 4th, and began to warp towards the head of the bay. In the afternoon we came to with the beft bower, in eight fathom water, and moored the veffd with the ftream cable, to a tree on diore. It was the intention of our Captains, the firft fecure harbour we came into, to haul the veffels on Ihore, in order that their bottoms might be thoroughly fcrubbed, and a frefh coat laid on. ^ This place being peculiarly fit for the pui-pofe, early in the morning of the 5th, the King George was hauled on (hore, and the people im- mediately fet to work in fcrubbing and cleaning her bottom ; the carpenters were employed in repairing the damaged fheathing. Mean while, it not being prudent for both veffels to be on fliorc at the fame time, our peoj^le were bufily employed ; fome in clearing the hold, and over-hauling the provifions ; others were fent on fliore to fill water ; and the coo^^ers were employed in repairing fome butts, and other calks that were fauhy. Whilft all this bufinefs was going forward, with every exertion in our power, in order that nothing might be left unattempted, nor any opportunity loft that we could poffibly lay hold of, towards facilitating our giand objca, early in the morning of the 5th, Cap- tain Dixon tookou- whale boat, together with the King George's long boat and whale boat, all well manned and armed, in order to ^ trade J... NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^51 trade hi the adjacent found, or wherever he j ad|gd it likely to meet 1 787 with inhabitants. ?iay. On the 6th, our cooper was employed in making fpruce beer • as we expeaed to have frequent opportunities of fupplying our- felveswith this wholefome beverage on the Am.ykan Coaft, we brought out a quantity of yeail in bottles, prepared by a Mrs Stainlby. of London j and it would be doing her injuftice not to fay, that the yeaft was now found to .afwer our moll fanguine expeftations, in working the fpruce, being equally good as when firft bi-ought from England. The people were bufied in bringing ^ water from fliore, and flowing it away in the hold, which, by this ^^ time, was compleatly over-hauled. ^ On the 7th, the King George's bottom being nearly compleated, we ftruck our top-mafts, and got every thing clear for hauling our veiiel on fliore. ^ The tide ferving at four o'clock in the morning of the 8tli we hauled on the graving bank. At eight o'clock we began to fcrape her, and having cleaned one fide, we breamed her, payii^sr hei- after- wards with a compofition of oil, tar, flufli, and chalk,"this being the beft coat we had in our power to lay on. At five in the after- noon, being nearly high water, we fwung her. in order to clean the other fide : we fcraped it on the 9th. but the weatlicr proving wet and unfavourable, Ihe could not be compleated ; fo that what hands could be fpared, were fent on (liore to cut wood. Early in the morning of the lolh. Captain Dixon returned with • the boats. As this excuriion was attended with feveral interefting circum- ii'' A V O V A G E 1' O T II E clicuiiiiuinccs, I imi give thcc an account of it in tlie Captain's owii words, as cc)])icd from his journal : " rhh morning, the 5ih, I went vvitii the two whale boats, and the King George's long boat, in order to fearch for Indians, and, if poiiible, to purchafe fome furs. My intentioii was to make riiiKhinbrooke Cove iiril, and from thence proceed to Snug Corner Cove, as I knew they, were the moil likely places to meet with in- habitants. I3ad weather coming on, at eight o'clcck I put mto a cove in Montague Ifland ; but towards nine o'clock, the weather clearing up, I proceeded round the North Eail end of the illand into a targe bay : hero I found fome Indians on a hunting party, who gave mc to underftand, that tiiey belonged to Cape Hinchin- brooke. It being late in the afternoon, I came to an anchoi for the night in the long boat, and made the whale-boats faft, one on each fide. <' As the Indians did not leave us when night came on, I ordered fix hands to keep watch, and the remainder to have then- arms ready, 'h that I mi-ht call them at a moment's notice. The Indi- ans iculked about us till near two o'clock, waiting, no doubt, for an opportunity to cut the boats (;iF, but liudin^ us attentive to all their motions, they then leii us. " At four o'clock in the morning of the 6th, I v. eighed, and fl-oud over for Cape Ilinchinbrookc, where 1 en sue to anchor at half i)afl; ten. At this place I found Several Indians, and purchaied a ("cw fea otter Ikins. The Indian, frequently pointed towards Snug Coi-ner Cuvo, ai;d cndeavoural to make me underftand, that a vef- fd lay :u anchor tliere. Though this circumaar.ee ftrongly excit- ed mv cuiiof.u-. wild made me particularly anxious to know whe- ther NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ther this piece of intelligence was true, yet tUillay being by this time far fpent, I determined to keep my prcfcnt fituation during tlie night, as the weather was very unpromifmgj fo that our ftandmg for Snug Corner Cove, under fucli circumllances, would be attended with fome degree of danger and difficulty. " A ftria and vigilant look-out was more neceffary this nieht if poffible, than we had found it the preceding one. The Indians whom I had traded with for furs, during the afternoon, were a different tribe from that I met with in the bay at the North Eaft end of Montague Ifland : their behaviour was very daring and infolent, though they did not direftly attack us, and they did not leave the boats till day-light the next morning. I make no doubt but that a fight of the various articles I had brought to trade with thefe people, occafioned them to lurk about us the whole night in hopes of obtaining a booty, but finding themfelves difappointed they paddled away, feemingly much difcontented . '«< Early in the morning of the 7th, I fet off for Snug Corner Cove , but the wind during the whole day being very light the ong boat made little way. fo that the whale boats were obVai to take her in tow : tin. retarded my pailhge fo much, that I did not arrive in the cove till .^,vcn o'clock in the evening. Contrary to my expectation, I found no vellbl in the cove, neitlier did I per- ceive any of tneinhabiu.us, notwithftanding which. I ordered the lame ftnft watcli to be kept as betbre, well remembering, that the D.Jcovay was boarded by the natives in tliis very cove, during- Captain Cook's kill Voyage, in oi)cn day " During the night, none of the inliabitants came near us ■ but at day-hght in the morning of the Sth, two Indians came alone. U lide J 5? 1787. May. •I I J 54 i 1787. May. A VOYAGE TO THE fide in a canoe, and gave me to undei-ftand, that there was a flilp at no great diflance ; at the fame time they offered to condua me to her for a Ihing of beads. Glad to accept this propofal, I willingly embraced their offer, and fet off with the whale-boats, leaving the long boat at anchor, as I was afraid ffie would only retard my pro- grefs, and I was exceedingly anxious to know, whether there really was a veffel in this part, or that the Indians had been amufing me with a falfe report. " I had not got far before the weather grew veiy bad, and my guides gave me the flip : however, I continued the fearch along fliore till twelve o'clock, by which time I had got into the entrance of a large bay, and the weather growing very fqually, with heavy ftorms of fnow and fleet, I thought it moft advifeableto return to the long boat, where I arrived about three o'clock. " At half part: fix o'clock, fix canoes came into the cove where we lay, and told me there was a fliip not far off, to which they were going, and offered to fliew me the way : the weather was then very bad, but as they were going up the inlet, and not out to fea, as my guides had done in the morning, I fet out with them in my own wliale-boat, leaving the other whale-boat, and the long boat, in the cove. " At ten o'clock in the evening, we arrived in the creek where the veflel I fo much wilhed to fee lay. I found her to be a fnow, called the Nootka, from Bengal, commanded by a Captain Meares, under Englifli colours. " I learnt from Captriin Meares, that he had failed from Bengal in March, i'^86j and that he touched at Oonalaika in Auguft. From NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. From thence he proceeded to Cook's River, which he intended to make by way of the Barren Illands ; but the weather at that time being thick and hazy, he got into Wliitfuntide Bay, through which he found a paQ'age into Cook's Ri yer. In this flraight he met with a party of Ruffian fettlers, who informed him, that the land to the Eaftward of the ftraight is called by them Codiac, and that they had a fettlcment there j likewife that two European veifcls were then at anchor at Codiac, and that they had lately ktn two other Ihips in Cook's River. This intelligence induced him to fteer for Prince William's Sound, where he arrived the latter end of September. " He had wintered in the creek where I now found him, and his velfel was ftill faft in the ice. The fcurvy had made fad havock amongft his people, he having loft his Second and Third Mates, the Surgeon, Boatfwain, Carpenter, Cooper, Sail-maker, and a great number of the foremaft men, by that dreadful diforder ; and the remaining part of his crew were fo enfeebled at one time, that Captain Meares himfclf was the only perfon on board able to walk the deck. ^S5 May. "1 I 1 ' I r- « It gave him very great pleafure to find two veflels fo near, who could aflift him in fome meafure in his diftrefs ; and I had no lefs fatisfadionin alluring him, that helhould be furniflied with every necelTary we could pofiibly fpare. As Captain Meares's people were now getting better, he defned me not to take the trouble of fend- ing any refreflnnents to him, as he would come on board us very iliortly in his own boat. *• I left the Nootka at three o'clock in the morning of the 9th, and got to my boats about eight : at ten o'clock I weighed, and ftood down for our jhips. being now convinced, that there was no profi)e6l 156 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. May ki.| ■ MSI: i. nm vff-i profpe6l of my meeting with any furs of confequence. Towards noon it grew nearly calm, and the whale boats were obliged to take the long boat in tow. *' Whilft we were proceeding in this manner acrofs the found, fome canoes joined us, and one of the Indians had a few fea-otter ikins, which he offered to fell. Happening to caft his eyes on a frying-pan, which my people in the long boat had to drefs their vi£luals with, he requefted to have it in barter ; accordingly, it was offered him, but he abfolutely refufed to take it entire, and deHred us to break off the handle, which he feemed to regard as a thing of ineftimable value, and rejeiSled the bottom part with con- tempt. QltSL ii ?1| " Towards fix o'clock, the wind frefhening, the whale boats were caft off, and foon afterwards the weather grew very rough, w'tli conftant fi\ow and fleet, which occafioned the boats to fepa- rate. The night was very ftormy, and 1 did not get on board my own veflel till four o'clock in the morning of the loth. The King George's boats arrived nearly about the fame time." About eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the loth, Captain Meares, accompanied by Mr. Rofs, his Firfl: Mate, came in their own boat on board the King George, bringing feveral bags of rice along with them, to exchange for various refreflmients, which they ftood greatly in need of. From them wc learnt, that the Fur-trnde on this coaft had been carried on from different parts of the Eaft Indies for fome years. They NORTH-WEST COAST OF AIVTERICA. They told us various ftories refpeaing their flicccfs in trade but on thefe much reliance was not to be placed, as the Captain and Mate feldom agreed in their accounts : at one time, they had purchafedtwothoulhndfea-otterfkins; at another, not more than feven hundred This, however, is pretty certain, that they had- procured a confiderable quantity of valuable furs, and thefe chiefly it not altogether, in Prince William's Sound. It was Captain Meares's intention to have compleatcd his Voy- age m twelve months ; but the froft fetting in fooner than they expeded, had unavoidably detained them in the found during the winter. The great lofs they fuftained by ficknefs has already been related, unfortunately when the remaining part of Captain Mearess crew were weak and enfeebled to the laft degree, they were greatly diftreiTed for fuel , and for fome time it was with the greatcfl difficulty that they got wood on board for their daily ufe. On our enquiring whether the fcurvy, unattended with any other complaint, had made fuch fatal havock amongrt the peqole belon<^- mg to the Nootka, we were informed, that a free and unreflrainal ufe of fpints had been indifcriminately allowed them durinr the extreme cold weather, which they had drank to fuch excefs about Chriftmas, that numbers of them kept their hammocks for a fort- night together , add to this, their liquor was of a very pernicious kind, fo that there is rcafon to fuppofe its effeils. when drank to fuch an extreme, were not lefs fatal than the fcurvy itfelf Ad mitting this to be the cafe, it furcly was ill-judged in Captain^ Mearcs to uffer Inch hurtful exceffes amongft his people, and I am afraul that a fcanty Ibpply of the various antifcorbutics abfo- lutely ne^ellary for thefe voyages, put it out of their po^yer to check this cruel diforde;v lb often fata! to fla-fhring people. In ^S'T 1787- May. I 1 i i' 1 .^ ' ' ff !'>*" 'I r. f. (• '* ^ '' 1*3 L iS^ Alav. ' -^U'v p* ('. a • |',i • J^ it AVOVAGETOTHE In the forenoon of the i ith, Captam Meares and Mr. Rofs left us. Tliey were fupplicd with what flour, fugar, molafles, brandy, 6cc. we could poflibly ipare j and in order to render them every alfiftance in our power, Captain Portlock fpared Captain Meares two fcamen, to alTift in carrying his veffel to Sandwich IQands, where he propofed going as foon as the weather permitted. We now were no longer at a lofs to know what the Indians wc faw in the fiiil bay meant by pointing towards Prince William's Sound, and repeating the word Nootka -, neither did we any longer wonder at their coaxing our dogs, and fpeaking Englilh, as they are exceedingly articulate in their pronunciation, and one of them it Teems, had been on board the Nootka feveral weeks. But to re- turn to our bufmefs on board. Towards noon on the lotli, the weather growing pretty mode- rate, vve compleated our bottom, and in the afternoon, hove to our moorings. We were bufied on the i ith in ftowing the hold, and getting in wood and water. The armourers of both Ihips had a tent on fliore, and were bufily employed in making toes, our anvil bein<^ loftj we likewife got in about a ton of ftones for ballaft, fwayed up our top-mafls, and fet up the rigging. The 1 2th was taken up in complcating our water, and gettmg every tiling ready for fea. Here I fliall leave thee for the prefent. Happy fliall I be to fend thcc a more favourable account of our good fortune in my next, than I have been hitherto able to do. Thine alTuredly, W. B. Montague T.-i.anm), ? MuYJ'iili. i LETTER NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. LETTER XXX. OUR laft feafon on the coaft being now advancing very faft, a reparation was agreed on as the moft likely means of pro- moting our fuccefs for the remaining part of the year j accordingly. It was determined to fend Captain Portlock's long boat, under the direaionof MeiTrs. Hayward and Hill, to trade in Cook's River. The King George was to (lay in Prince William's Sound, till the boat's return, and our velTel was to fail for King George's Sound, at the fame time, keeping well in with the coaft, that no opportunity of colleding Furs might be loft : this diftribution of ourfelves, thou wilt perhaps fay, was judicious ; and indeed it was high time for us to ftrain every nerve ; for what with finding ourfelves anti- cipated at this place, and the great probability of being fcrved the fame at King George's Sound, our beft profpeas were far from pleafing. In the afternoon of the latli of May, MelTrs. Hayward and Hill ' fet out in the long boat for Cook's River, taking with tliem a pro- per aflbrtment of articles necefl'ary for trading with the natives. Soon after they were gone, two canoes came along-fidc us, one of them with eight people in her, the other three, but brought no- thmgi however, they promifcd to come next day, with plenty of trade, accompanied by their Chief. The morning of the 13th was fine and clear, but the wind being light and vanable, and there being a/^/% of the Indians re- turning. «59 May. / , Jl t !!fte»l '■■ L. kl ^-j ."'1 ' t r6o .787. May. A VOYAGE TO THE turning, five of our people were fent, with the Boatfwain in the whale boat, on a ti(hing party, having orders not to lofc fight of the Ihips, and others had Uberty to recreate themfelves on fliore. About one o'clock, we had the pleafure of feeing two large canoes, and fcveral fmall ones, full of Indians, come round the ^^orth Eaft point of the bay. When they came in fight of the vefiels, they began to fing, keeping regular time with the ftrokes of their paddles in the water : their finging feemed to be in a great meafure direfted by the Chief, and the cadence was not without pjme degree of harmony. Wlien they came along-fide the King George, they wereprofufe in their friendly falutations ; at the fame time their Chief, whofe name was Sbijnivay, Ihewed a letter for Captain Portlock, which came, he faid, from the Nootka, on wliich he was admitted on board, together with a number of his people. It fecms the hunting party we fawat our firil coming in, on the 24th of April, belonged to old Shanway" s tribe 5 thefe people lived near Snug Corner Cove, and on their return had acquainted Cap- tain Meares, that they had feen two {hips at anchor a great dif- tance down the cliannel ; on which he immediately wrote the above-mentioned letter, without knowing whom particularly to addrefs it to, and gave it to the Indians, who promifcd to return back to us immediately ; but thefe trufty mefiengers never found their Wv^y till now, when the letter was of no conlcquencc. Captain Portlock's motive for admitting Shanway s people on board, was from a fuppoiition that fuch an indulgence would en- ooura-e them to trade more frcclv ; but to his great mortification, :' ■ he NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. be foon found that traffic did not induce them to come near him, what httle trade they brought bemg mere refufe, and that their brmging the letter now was only for an opportunity to get on board, in order to fteal every thing which lay ui their way. I could fee moft of their tranfadions from our quarter-deck, and mufl fay, they were managed with a good deal of art. Shanway, and fome of his attendants endeavoured to jynufe the King George's people with finging and dancing, whilft others travcrfed the decks, and threw every thing which came in their way to their conipa- nions in the canoes. Captain Portlock was prefcntly aware of his guefts thievifh difpofition ; but being unwilling to drive them away by force, heftationed his people in different parts of the vef- fel to watch their motions : notwithftanding this precaution, they ftole a number of articles, and got them unperceived into their canoes. Whenever they were deteded in a theft, they relinquilh- ed their booty with the utmoll: unconcern j but when any thing was once in their poffeffion, it was with difficulty they were pre- vailed on to reftore it. At firft, the only articles they attempted to fteal, were iron and cloaths j but finding themfelves watched, they became indifcriminate plunderers, and feized on every thing in their power. i6r 1787. May. i Having flitisfied their curiofity, and found their depredations put a ftop to, old Shanway and his people left us about five in the afternoon. Our whale-boat, at this time, lay at anchor about two miles diftant from the vcffels, the people in her bufy fifliing, which the Indians happening to fee, as they paddled out of the bay, they direaiy made up to them. This alarmed Captain Portlock, who all along had been attentive to Shanway 's motions, and he imme- diately manned his whale-boat and yawl, and went off to our peo pie's aililbnce, being apprehenfive not only for the boat, but that X their l62 1787- May. A VOYAGE TO THE their lives would be in clanger, as the Indians were well armed with knives andfpcars : our yawl was alio difpatched to afliil, if necef- fary ; and Captain Dixon, at the lame moment, fired a fwivel, the report of which, we could fee, alarmed the Indians, who immedi- ately paddled off with precipitation. When our people came on board, we found our fears for their fafety were not groundlefs. The Indians had attempted to fteal their anchor, and had actually taken fcvcral of their filhing-lines ; nay, one of them attempted to run his fpear through a young fel- low, becaufe he refufed to give up his line, but was prevented by Shan way, who, fortunately for the people, was, it feems, of a pacific difpofition, and contented himfelf with plundering in quiet. Thefe were fufficient cautions to us in future, not to tj-uft any Indians, even to come on board : indeed Captain Meares had in- formed us, that a lliip from China had a quarrel with the inhabi- tants of King George's Sound, in which fevcral of the Indians loft their lives ; and that the natives afterwards traded with as much unconcern as if nothing had happened. Our fifliing party had tolerable faccefs; they caught a large quantity of fand-dabs, and a few rock-fifli. The birds and marine productions here are much tlic fame as in the firft bay we anchored in ; and it is probable there may be fal- mon farther on in the feafon, when the heat of the fun, by melt- ing the fnow, caufes frelh water rivulets ; but at this time, it had. fcarcely made any imj)refrion on that dreary element ; and the fur- rounding profpecl teemed with all the horrors of winter. The night- ie 'a Ir 31 Is ■ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 163 night-tides flow here much higher than in the day-time, though I 1787. cannot fay, with any degree oF certainty, how high they ril'e. We now waited with an anxiety bordering on impatience, for a fan- wind to carry us from this ph;ce, and a Hght breeze fpringing up at South Eaft, at four o'clock in the morning of the 14th, we weighed anclior and flood out of tlie bay. Towards noon' the wnid veered to South Weft, which was quite favourable for our ftanding up the channel into Prince William's Sound. By noon, we had the North point of iMontague Illand in fight, bearing North Eart : our obfervation gave 60 deg. 23 min. North latitude; and we found the variation of the compafs 29 deg. 46 min. Eaft- crly. In the afternoon, the breeze frefliening, Captain Dixon went on board the King George, to take leave of Captain Portlock, as we were drawing near the place where it was agreed for us to feparate. At feven o'clock he returned on board, and we hoiiled in our boats, parting company with our colours flying, and three hearty cheers! Captain Portlock ftcered for Hincliinbiooke Cove, and we liept ftanding for the paflage between Cape Plinchinbrooke and xMon- tague I Hand. During the night we had the wind at North Weft, ilill blowing a moderate breeze. At four o'clock in the morning of the 15th, Cape Hinchin- brooke bore North Weft half Weft, about eight leagues diftant, and the land to tiie Northward North 35 dog. Eaft ; the extremes of Montague Illand bore from South S5 deg. Weft, to Weft North Weft. We founded in thirty Hve fathom water, over a fandy bot- tom. At eight. Cape Hinchinbrooke bore North 63 ckg. Weft. During the former part of the day, the wind Iclicned, and :it noon W€ P f--^ 164. 1787. Way, ' i' A VOYAGE TO THE we had light variable airs. Great numbers of whales were feen in almoft every dire6li on, but particularly towards the land. Our meridian altitude gave 59 deg. 48 min. North latitude. Cape Hinchinbrooke bore North 65 deg. Weft, about twelve leagues 'dirtant, and the Soutli Weft point of Montague Ifland South 63 deg. Weft. At fcven in the afternoon we faw Kaye's Ifland, which bore North 40 deg. Eaft j we ftill had light airs, with intervening calms. Our latitude on the 16th, at noon, was 59 deg. 28 min. North J and the longitude 145 deg. 20 min. Weft. Kaye's Ifland bore North 12 deg. Eaft. We had foundings from fifty to eighty fathcai water, over a muddy bottom. In the evening, the wind fliifting to the Eaftward, we tacked at ten o'clock, and ftretched to the Southward durmg the night. We founded at midnight, with a line of k|o fathom, but found no bottom. During the 17th and i8th, we had light variable winds, with intervening calms ; thc^ weather tolerably fine. In the afternoon of the 18th, we faw Mount St. Elias, which at eight o'clock bore North 29 deg. Eaft j and the South point of Kaye's Ifland Weft. In the afternoon of the 19th a ftrong breeze came on at Eaft North Eaft, and a heavy fwell fet in from the Southward. This occafioned us to double-reef the top-fails j but towards evening, the weather grew moderate. The greateft part of the 20th, we had light baffling winds, with frequent calms; our latitude at noon was 59 deg. 9 min. North; and our longitude 143 deg. 34 min. Weft. Mount St, Elias bore North by Eaft. At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze luckily fprung NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fprung up from the Weftward, attended with clear weather, which T78, enabled us again to ftand in for the coaft, which in this fituation ^^y* trends nearly Eaft and Well. l6s. The weather in the forenoon of the 21ft was thick and hazy : the wind ftill blowing a moderate Wefterly breeze. Our obferva ' tion at noon gave 59 deg. 2 1 min. North latitude j and longitude 141 deg. 34 min. Weft. At eight in the evening we hauled our wind to the Northward, on feeing a low point of land, which bore North 40 deg. Eaft; and the extremes of the land in fight bore from North 32 deg. Weft, to North 76 deg. Eaft. about four miles, diitant. It not being prudent to ftand for the ftiore during the night, at nine o'clock we tacked, and ftretched to the Southward On founding, we had fixty fathom water, over a muddy bottom. Early in the morning of the 22d, we tacked and ftood to the Northward, but unfortunately had light variable airs, and thick hazy weather , however, at nine o'clock we law land bearing fronx North Weft by North to Eaft North Eaft ; and there being every appearance of an inlet, Captain Dixon determined to examine it as there was a probability of finding inhabitants, and confequently fome trade might be expected. Light airs, and intervening calms the whole day, prevented our^ getting in with the land ; the weather at the lame time being thick and hazy. We had foundings from fcventy to eighty-five fathom water, over a muddy bottom^ • At half paft two o'clock in the morning of the 23d, a lightr breeze ipringing up from tb.e Eaftward, we ftood in for the Wcft- ermoft point of land, which was then about live miles diftant. At four x66 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. May. four o'clock, being within two miles of fhore, we foundechn forty- two fathom water, over a bottom of foft mud. The mornmg proving very thick and hazy, at fix o'clock the whale-boat was hoifted out, and Mr. Turner, our Second Mate, fent mto a bay. which bore North North Eaft, to look for anchoring ground. Soon after the boat was gone, we perceived a finglc canoe with one perfon in her, who feemed to be fifliing at the entrance of the bay. We were greatly elated with this fight, as there was now a certamty o' finding inhabitants in the adjacent harbour. At eight o'clock Mr. Turner returned, and reported that he had found an excellent harbour, and feen a number of inhabitants. The bl-eeze dying away, our yawl was hoifi:edout, and fent a-head with the whale boat, in order to tow the veffel into the bay ; but by ten o'clock wc found that all our towing was to no purpofc, the tide running ftrongly againft us. On this we immediately began to warp up the bay, but this got us a-head very ,flowly, as we had from forty-five to fifty fathom water, and as we advanced farther into the bay, our foundings increafed. The fituation Mr. Turner had pitched on for us to anchor in, v^ras round a low point to the Northward, about three miles up the bay ; but finding it impraaicable to get there by day-light, though every polfible exertion was made to effed it, we came to at eight o'clock, with the fmall bower, in fixty-five fathom water, over a muddy bottom. Our profpeas now feem to brighten. Thou maycft depend on having an account of our fuccefs at this place the earlieft oppor- tunity. Thine, kc. Port Mui.crave. 241I1 May. ! W. B. LE T- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. LETTER XXXI. THE extremes of the bay we came to anchor in, the evening of the 23d of May, bore from Weft to North 42 deg. Weft j and the point round which our intended harbour lay. North 20 deg. Eaft; our diftance from the ftiore lefs than a mile. During the time we were warping into the bay, feveral canoes came along- fide us. We accofted the people with fome of the words in ufe amongft the natives of Prince William's Sound, but they had not the leaft idea of their meaning : indeed it was pretty evident at firft fight, that thefc people were a different nation, from the con- ftruaion of their canoes, which were altogether of wood, neatly finiftied, and in ftiape not very much unlike onr whale-boats. To the Southward of our prefent fituation was a narrow creek, which appeared to lead a great diftance into the country, and widened as it advanced in fliore. 167 May. Early in the morning of the 24th, we faw a number of the na- tives on the beach, near the entrance of this creek, making fignals for us to come on iliore : a finoke was alfo ken, which proceeded from behind fome pines, at a fmall diftance round the point. On this Captain Dixon went in the whale-boat to furvey rhe place, thinking it probable, from thefe circumftances, that the Indians chiefly refided licre ; and fliould there be convenient anchorage, ilie fituation would be a more eligible one than that found out by Mr. Turner. He found a number of inhabitants, and twoorthiee temporary huts 3 but the entrance into the creek was tog iliallow to, it t "ff .,t8 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. to admit our veflel ; fo at eight o'clock, having a fiefh Eaftcrly ^^''y- breeze, we weighed anchor, and began to ply into the harbour to the Northward. At two o'clock we came to anchor in eight fa- thom water, over a bottom of foft mud, within piftol fliot of the fhore, and very near two large Indian huts. We were now compleatly land-locked, being entirely furroundal by low flat iflands, where fcarcely any fnow could be feen, and well ftieltered l»om any wind or weather whatever. The people feemed very wellpleafed at our arrival, and a number of them prefentlycamealong-fideus. They foon underftood what we wanted, and an old man brought us eight or ten excellent fea otter (kins. This circumftance, together with our having as yet feen no beads, or other ornaments, or any iron implements, gave us reafon to conclude, that no trading party had ever been here, and confe- quently that we fhould reap a plentiful harveft j but our conjec- tures on this head were built on a fandy foundation ; for on a fur- ther acquaintance with our neighbours, they fhewed us plenty of beads, and the fame kind of knives and fpears we had feen in Prince William's Sound ; and as a melancholy proof that we only glean- ed after more fortunate traders, what furs they brought to fell, cxclufive of the fmall quantity juft mentioned, were of a very infe- ifor kmd. From the 25th of May to the ift of June, our trade was incon- fiderable : we were frequently viiited by the people wk) lived in the creek I juft now fpoke of, but they belonged to the fame tribe vfiiw our neighbours, and poirefTed very few furs of any confe- ^ucnce. I have \i'. '4x NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERJCA. I have already obferved, that we were furrounded by a number of fmall iflands ; thefe forming various creeks and harbours, Cap- tarn Dixon propofed furveying the whole, hoping that fo extenfive a found as this appeared to be, contained a much greater number of mhabitants than we had hitherto feen j but as yet the weather had been fo thick and hazy, attended with conftant rain, that this defign was fruftrated. However, the morning of the ift of June proving tolerably clear, he went in the whale-boat at ten o'clock, in order to examine the adjacent harbours, taking with him one of the Indians who had frequently been on board, and who was a tole- rably intelligent fellow, as a guide. At five in the afternoon, Captain Dixon returned from his fur- vey, which had by no means anfwered his expedations. He had found feveral huts fcattered here and there, in various parts of the found, but they were moftly inhabited by people whom we had already ken ; and there was not a fingle Ikin of any value amongft them : indeed our fuccefs at this place fell greatly fhort of what we had reafon to exped, from its promifing fituation, and the firft appearance of inhabitants j but this poverty was not to be difco- vered on a fudden, for though the whole that we purchafed here confiftcd only of about fixteen good fea otter Ikins, two fine cloaks of theearlefs marmot, a few racoons, and a parcel of very inferior pieces and fiips of beaver, fufficient to fill onefingk puncheon ; yet it was not till the 3d of June, (ten days from the time of our com- ing into the harbour) that we found the natives fcanty ftock of furs not only exhaufted, but that they had fi:rippcd themfelves almofl naked, to fpin out their trade as far as pofliblc. This tedious de- lay was occafioned by the (low, dehberate manner in whicli thefe people condua their traffic. Fo\u- or fix people come along- fide in a canoe, and wait perhaps an hour before tjiey give the lealt inti- Y mation I! 169 ill 1' ^1" ill ilii^ 170 A VOYAGE TO THE matlon of having any thing to fell -, they then, by fignificant flirugs and geftures, hint at having brought fomething valuable to difpofe of, and wifh to fee what will be given in exchange, even before their commodity is expofed to view, for they are particularly care- ful in concealing every thing they bring to fell. Should this ma- noeuvre not fucceed, after much deUberation, their cargo is pro- duced, and generally confifts of a few trifling pieces of old fea otter Ikins, and even then, a confiderable time is taken up before the bargain is concluded -, fo that a whole day would frequently be fpent in picking up a few trifles. Such, however, was our prefent fituation, in regard to trade, that we patiently fubmitted to the tantalizing method of thcfe people, in hopes that fomething better might poflibly be brought us ; but finding they were ftripped al- moft naked, and not the mofl: difl:ant probability of any better fuc- cefs, Captain Dixon determined to leave this place the fk-ft oppor- tunity. I fliall now endeavour to give thee fome account of this place, and its inhabitants. As there is good reafon to fuppofe that we were the firft: difcoverers of this harbour, Captain Dixon named it Port Mulgrave, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord Mui- grave. Our anchoring place is fituated in 59 deg. 32 min. North latitude, and 140 deg. Weft: longitude. How extenfive the found is, I cannot fay j it contains a number of fmall low iflands, but at intervals, when the fog cleared up, we could difcern high moun- tainous land, to the Northward and Weftward, at about ten leagues diftant, entirely covered with fnow, and which we judged to be part of the continent. Thefe iflands, in common with the reft: of the coafl:, are entirely covered with pines, of two or three diflerent fpecies, intermixed here and there with witch hazle, and vanous kinds of brufli-vvooc Shrubs T' ii ||i| , ;|y ill" 8^1 li i :L= 'A'/' M r !(■./;. I r K ^ I.uum: / IC.t'l' //'. Viii-. •;(>'.<)<) /;. /;//; X'mitii' Milcsj ■'I'-, >■■■■ *...^>^^' ^ /■.' v "' , \ :>o ~o •io \ " ■ I ^- ♦- iy r-^ :iii J 70 1-87. June. **^^-^ 11:1 'H- it;:: ■wpiinitf ■ ['■ K ^ Slu Ml Ls«*'"i'K^S''/,*;,*«i^sst*S'3SS'* NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Shrubs of different forts appeared to be fpringing up, but tlieir vegetation was not fufficiently advanced for us to diftinguifh what they were ; yet the weather was toleiu jly mild, the mean of the thermometer being 46 deg. We found fome wild geefe and ducks here, and though not near fo numerous as at Montague Ifland, yet they were more eafily come at. Captain Dixon frequently went on fliore. to take the diverfion of fhooting, and feldom returned without fome game, which not only proved an excellent treat for us, but at the fame time gave the Indians fuch an idea of fire-arms, that their behaviour was per- feftly quiet and inoffenfive, and they never attempted to mo- left us. 171 J 787. Ju e. r. « i .''! ', The number of Inhabitants contained in the whole found, as near as I could calculate, amounted to about feventy, including women and children j they in general are about the middle fize, their limbs ftraight and well fhaped, but like the reft of the inha- bitants we have ken on the coaft, are particularly fond of painting their faces with a variety of colours, fo that it is no eafy matter to difcover their real complexion ; however, we prevailed on one wo- man, by perfuafion, and a trifling prefent, to wafli her face and hands, and the alteration it made in her appearance abfolurely fur- prifed us ; her countenance had all the chearful glow of an Eng- lifti milk-maid ; and the healthy red which fluflied her chee!., was even beautifully contrafted with the whitenefs of her neck ; her eyes were black and fparkling ; her eye-brows the fame colour, and moft beautifully arched ) her forehead fo remarkably clear, that the transflucent veins were kew meandering even in their minut.-ft branches — in fliort, fhe was what would be reckoned handfome even in England : but this fymmctry of features is entirely de- ft ioved 5 ' -\\\\^ ,» i.:^r 172 1787. June. f%h hi. A VOYAGE TO THE ftroyed by a cuftom extremely fingular, and what we had never met with before, neither do I recolleft having k^n it mentioned by any Voyagers whatever. An aperture is made in the thick part of the under Hp, and in- creafed by degrees in a line parallel with the mouth, and equally long : in this aperture, a piece of wood is conftantly wore, of an ehptical form, about half an inch thick ^ the fuperficies not flat but hollowed out on each fide like a fpoon, though not quite fo deep; the edges are likewife hollowed in the form of a pully in order to fix this precious ornament more firmly in the lip which by this means is frequently extended at leaft three inches horizon- tally, and confequently diftorts every feature in the lower part of the face. This curious piece of wood is wore only bv the women and leems to be oonfidered as a mark of diftinaion, 'it not bein^ wore by all indifcriminately, but only thofe who appeared in a fu- penor ftation to the reft. The language here is different from that of Prince William's Sound, or Cook's River ; it appears barbarous, uncouth, and dif- ficult to pronounce : they frequently ufed the word ^^,cou, which fignifies a Friend, or Chief, and their numerals reckon to ten • but I was not able to procure any farther fpecimen of their language as they are very clofe and uncommunicative in their difpofitions. * Their habitations are the moft wretched hovels that can pofllbly be conceived ; a few poles ftuck in the ground, without order or regularity, enclofed and covered with loofe boards, conftitute an Indian hut, and fo little care is taken in their conftruaion, that they are quite mfufficient to keep out the fnow or rain : the nume- rous NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. rous chinks and crannies ferve. however, to let out the fmoke no « particular aperture being left for that purpofe. ' 711'. an Jfim'^'^' f. '^"^' '"'""'^' ''^'^''' ^ ^^'"P^^^^ P'^-re of dirt and filth mdolence and lazinefs, in one corner are thrown the bones, and rcmannng fragments of viduals left at their meals • !n another are heaps of filh, pieces of ftinking flelh. greafe, oil &c mfhort the whole ferved to fhew us, in how wretched a ftat if ^ poihble for human bemgs to exift , and yet thefe people appear con tented w.th tl.ir fituation, and probably enjoy a'muc'h Trate; portion of happmefs and tranqudhty, than is to be found under the glided roofs of the moft defpotic monarch. •Tis probable, that the chief reafon why thefe Indians take no greater pains in the ftru6lure of their habitations is, that their fituation IS merely temporary: no fooner does the mafter of a tribe find game begin to grow fcarce, or fifi. not fo plentiful as he expeaed, than he takes down his hut, puts the boards into his canoe, and paddles away to feek out for a fpot better adapted to his various purposes, which, having found, he prefentiy erects his dwelhng in the fame carelelefs manner as before. I beforetook notice, that their fmall canoes were neatly finiilied •* the very reverie is the cafe with their large ones , they are made entirely of one large tree, rudely excavated and reduced to no par- ticular fliape, but each end has the refemblance of a butcher's tray ana generally are large enough to hold twelve or fourteen people Wmiu we lay here, thefe people fupplied us very plentifully with hahbut, which we bought of them for beads and fmall toes. The place •fslMphB:l;r'""^'^'°'"^'^ CaptamDIxon, a.dis now in the pofll^on m m mi 1 is 'r -»74 1787. June. A VOYAGE TO THE place where thcfe halibut were caught, is in the offing round the l^oint of land we firft made in the morning of the 23d of May. Our whale-boat was one day fent with feven hands to this place, en a fifhing party ; but their fuccefs was greatly inferior to that oUwo Indians, who were fifliing at the fame time, which is rather extraordinary, if we confider the apparent inferiority of their tackle to our'o. Their hook is a large fimple piece of wood, the fliank at leaft half an inch in diameter ; that part which turns up, and which forms an acute angle, is confiderably fmaller, and brought gradu- ally to a point : a flat piece of wood, about fix inches long, and near two inches wide, is neatly laflied to the fhank, on the back of which is rudely carved the reprefentation of an human face. I cannot think that this was altogether defigned as an ornament to their hooks, but that it has feme religious allufion, and poffibly is intended as a kind of Deity, to enfurc their fuccefs in fiihing, which is conducted in a fingular manner. They bait their hook with a kind of fifli, called by the failors^/V/^, and having funk it to the bottom, they Hx a bladder to the end of the line as a buoy, and Oiould that not watch fufficiently, they add another. 1 heir lines are veryflrong, being made of the fmews or intellines of ani- jiials. i'U 11 ■tW^ -I One man is fufficient to look after fJvc or fix of thefe buoys i when he perceives a filh bite, he is in no great hurry to haul up his line, but gives him time to be well hooked ; and when he has haul- ed the fifli up to the furface of the water, he knocks him on the head with a fliort club, provided for that purpofe, and afterwards ftows his prize away at his leifure : this is done to prevent the halibut (which fometimes are very large) from damaging, or per- haps upfetting his canoe in their dying ftruggles. Thus were we ^ ' - fairly NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. fokrjr kat at our own weapons, and the natives conftantly bring. ,,8, wfrdT "'" ''°" "" """■ '""" °" "•'" ''"'"'"^''^ »f"^- • ■* n/''? ''rl"'"'' "'^™'' ^^ P""'"S heated ({ones into a kind vered up clofe i fometimes they make broth and m foup by the fame method, wh.ch they always preferred to boiling, though we gave them fome brafs pans, and pointed out the mode of ufing ™'bf rr« "' ''f 'f ''^ ^""-^ of chewing a plant, which ap- pears o be a fpecies of tobacco ; not content, however, with chew- ing It m .ts fimple ftate, they generally mix lime along w thTt and fometimes the mner rind of the pine-tree, together with a- rofinous fubilance extrafted from it. ■ S " «"" a-. When we came into this harbour, on the 23d of May, our at-^ tennon was a good deal engaged by tlie fight of a nu.nbcr of white rai s. on a level p.ece of ground, not fur from the creek which I have already obferved was fituated to the Southward of us. Thcfe rails were about a mile and half from the vcflil, and appeared nt that d,ftance to be conftrufted with fuch order .KUegulartr that we concluded them beyond the reach of Indian connivance' and confequently that they were erefled by fome civilized nation: Cptam D.xon, wdlmg to be fatisfied in this particular, tool? an opportunity of going ,0 the fpot. and to his great fu prize found. t to b. a kind of buryir, -place, if I mfy be al o«S to call that ,„, where dead bodies are not depof.ted in the cartt: rhe manner m wluch they dilpofe of their dead is very remarkable : they feparate the head from the body, and wrapping U..,„ .„ f„„, the ^7.5 W¥ 176 1787. June. h A VOYAGE TO THE the head Is put into a fquare box, the body in a kind of oblong chefl. At each end of the cheft which contains the body, a thick ])ole, about ten feet long, is drove into the earth in a flanting po- fition, fo that the upper ends meet together, and are very firmly lafhed vi^ith a kind of rope prepared for the purpofe. About two feet from the top of this arch, a fmall piece of tim- ber goes acrofs, and is very neatly fitted to each pole : on this piece of timber the box which contains the head is fixed, and very ftrongly fecured with rope ; the box is fi'equently decorated with two or three rows of fmall fhells, and fomctimes teeth, which arc let into the wood with great neatnefs and ingenuity; and as an additional ornament, is painted with a variety of colours j but the poles are uniformly painted white. Sometimes thefe poles are fixed upright in the earth, and on each fide the body, but the head is always fe- cured in the pofition already defcribed. What ceremony is ufed by thefe people, in depofiting their dead in this manner, we never could learn, as nothing of the kind hap- pened during our flay in the harbour. Befidcs the fkins I have mentioned already, we purchafed a few bears, and fome land beaver ; but I rather think, that tJie marmot cloaks were procured by thefe people from fome neighbouring tribe. Toes were the article of trade held in the firfl: eftimation here, and next to thefe, pewter bafons were beft liked. Beads ferved to purchafe pieces of fkins that were of little value ; but the deep blue, and finall green, were the only forts that would ' be NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. be taken in barter : indeed our traffic at this place was fo very cir- cumfcnbed, that there was not the leaft occaf.on to fhew the peopL ™y great variety of articles, as it only ferved to di.-raa *emt th«r chotce, and made their flow method of trading ftiU ^::Z I have now given thee fuch an account of this place, and its inha b.ta„ts as my obferva.ions from time to time furniied m wi h thou art not to expert them methodical, or well digefted , rowever' the perufal may ferve thee for a momentary amufement, and I per: haps may have an opportunity of adding a kind of fupplement pre- ™u^to our leaving the coaft. We are now getting ready for fea. Port Mulcrave, 3'I June. } W. B. LETTER XXXII. npH ERE being no farther profped of any trade in Port Mul- X grave, Captani Dixon determined to leave it tlie firft oppor- tunity 3 and a breeze at South Eaft fpringing up at four o'clock in themorningof the4thof June, wecarried a fn.all anchor a-head, out of the found. At noon, the South point of the entrance into Port Mulgrave bore South Eaft. and the North point North 8c de^. Weft , the Southern bluff about live miles diLt. t> unng *77 If , i ,1/ 1 1-;^ A VOYAGE TO THE I j^?* During this afternoon, and the whole of the 5th, we had li"-ht r _'-' ,. variable winds, with calms by turns. In the morning of the 6th, the land in fight bore from North 78 deg. Weft, to North 50 deg. Eaft ; and the Well: point of the bay we had left North 10 deg. Weft, about five leagues diftant. Our obfervation at noon gave 59 deg. 13 min. North latitude ; and the longitude was 140 deg. 40 min. Weft. A frefti Eafterly breeze now fprung up, and the day being tolerably clear, at four o'clock ill the afternoon, we faw Mount St. Elias, which bore North Well three quarters North, more than 20 leagues diftant. From the 7th to the 9th, the wind kept to the Eaftward, with wet, hazy weathei-, during which time we plied to the Southward, and confequenlly ftretched fartiier from the land than we could have wiflied j the coaft in this part trending nearly from Eaft South Eaft to Weft North Weft. Our obfervation at noon, on the 8th, gave ^y deg. 5^ min. North latitude; and 141 deg. 25. min. Weft longitude. At one o'clock in the morning of the lotii, the wind fliifted to. South Weft, which enabled us to ftand in for the coaft, to our great fatisfadion. Our meridian altitude at noon gave 56 deg. 49 min. North latitude i and the longitude 140 deg. ii min. Weft. During the remainder of the day, and the whole of the nth, we had a frefh breeze from the Weft ward, and kept ftanding for the coaft, which, however, we could not fee at any confidcrable dif- tance, the forenoon being thick and hazy. Our latitude at noon, 57(^eg' 13 min. NorMj longitude 136 deg. 26 min. Weft. At *' half NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. half part two in the afternoon. ,ve faw land, bearing from Weft No«h Weft to Eaft South Eaft. abont four „,iles Iftan" The wet:™;: r'a 1 '™r tt" " '^ ^^^^ ""^-^-'^ -^* fto^ T '■' N"«h North Weft, and our diftance from fl.o,e about a m,le. We now opened a very large and extenr?v^ bay, wh.ch had every appearance of an exedlLt ifarb"^- Abo a ra,Ie to the Southward of the .ape k a fmall inand. and we fleered nght for the paliage betwixt that and the .ape but at fev"„ o clock fce„,g a quant, ty of rock-weed right a-head Ca,>tai^ D.xo,^u<,gcd it p At one o'clock in the morning of the . .th, we tacked, and flood .n fo. ,l,e bay kavng the fn.all illand jufl mentioned to the Weft ward wnhahght breeze from North Weft by Weft At four o clock our whale-boat wa» hoifte.. out. and fent'a-head to fou^d Abou,xo clock we faw a large boat full of people, a, a very cTn-' ce able d.ftutce out at fea. making toward/us as fWft a. poflibl • he ho,fted ometlnng which had the appearance of a wl ite Z' but we could not order to examine it, as there appealed fomething wh,ch, at a dUlance. looked bright and fparkhng. On gettinf into the cave, he found the objeft which attraded his attentt" o be a V^re box, wth a human head in it, depofited in the mann r already defcr.bed at Port Mulgrave ; the box was very beaut fully ornamented wth fmall (hells, and fcemed to have been left he e feems to (hew, that the natives of this place dilpofe of their dead in the fame manner as at Port Mulgrave, but probably make choice of «aves for that purpofe, in preference to the open air. At day-ligh, in the morning of the ,3th. we had a number of canoes full of mhabitants along-fide; after a confiderable time ipent in fingmg, a pretty brilk trade commenced, and we boueht .-. number of excellent otter (kins ; the people feemed far more lively and alert than thofe we had left at Port Mulgrave ; and from cveiy appearance, we had reafoa to expeft an excellent trade at tins place. From this to the i6th, our trade went briikly forward, but af- terwards It began to decline, and feveral of die Indians left us in <^Jder to bring a further fupply of Ikins from their neighbours.' Toe? i8r 1^ l8i2 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. June, V' Toes are the article of traffic held in the firft eftimation at this place ; but they always refufed fmall ones, wanting them in gene- ral from eight to fourteen inches long. Befides thefe, we traded with pewter bafons, hatchets, howels, buckles, rings, &c. Of thefe the bafons were bell liked ; for though the hatchets and howels were obvioufly the moft ufeful tools thefe people could poffibly have, yet they were only taken in exchange for furs of inferior va- lue. Beads of every fort were conftantly refufed with contempt, when offered by way of barter, and would fcarcely be accepted as prefents. In the evening of the i6th, a frefii gale of wind came on fjom the Southward, which caufed a very heavy fea to fet into the bay. We were preparing to ftrike the top-mafts, when fortunately, about midnight, the weather moderated. This circumftance, however, fervcd to fhew us, that the bay was not fo fecurely flieltered from bad weather as we at firfl imagined. From the 17th to the 21ft, our trade gradually fell off; and to- wards the laft, they brought us fcarcely any thing but rubbifli, be- ing pieces of old cloaihs nearly wore out ; however, we had no rea- fon to complain of their backwardncfs in parting with what little trade they had left ; their conducl in this particular being quite the reverfe to that of our old friends in Port Mulgrave. Amongft the peoj^Ie who came to trade with us, was an old man, who fecmed remarkably intelligent : he gave us to under- ftand, that a good wliilc ago there had been two veffels at anchor near this place, one of which was confiderably larger than our's ; that tliey carried a great number of guns, and that the people rc- fembled us in colour and drefs. He fliewed us a white Ihirt they had NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. had given him and whicl, he fecme,! to regard as a ,reat curiofify ■ Ju 'J;' J°"™^' °f ">= Spanin, Voyase, publimed by the Uomu .able Dames B„r„ngton. the Spaniards are faid to l,av anchored ■n 57 dcg i8 n,in. North latitude : we now lay in C7 desr fZ .ttttinV r '"= °!" T- -""" '"'"^"^ '''' '-''on of wnieh helped toconhrmus ni our opinion, that the people defcrih b ri'^htitiffi ""^, '''" "■'= '"^"'^'■''^- ="-'" *i° Sea ; be nght, ,t fuffierently proves, that this place is fel.lom vil ted bv cd heToLnt:? """'"^' ' ''"''' °f "-iP-vouldhave ;r e ?: ca the accounts of our new acquaintance confute 1 and imnerferT- ■ on he contrary, his remarks were always clear and pert in' nnd uniformly tended to defciibe the fame objeft. During this time, though trade principally euKa.ed our attci, ^on. yet a number of fubordinate, though hecem,i;!mpZ„" were earned on -. parties were frequently lent on Ih.ire, L™ i fiie-wood, others to hU up our water, and the carpe iter ut a fpare top-maft, and feveral fpa, s, for various purpois Th 1 er was procured from a Imall river round a i^u t of ,„I atTi: diftancc of a mile from the Ihip. people tfolf'T'"' '^.^''•^™' """y enough, and fuftlred our people to follow tneir various employments unmoleiled ; but .)-,ey (oon giew very troublefome, and attempted to pick the r pocketT and even to fteal their iKws and axes 'in the Loft a^.'^^^^^^ manner j '83 1787. June. ; f.' iVi' t'V x84 1787. June. 'I.f A VOYAGE TO THE manner j indeed they could fcarcely be reftrained from thefe pro- ceedings without vi/'/.///.t\>f/ o,i:fi * • °^- period of life Whe . ,H, g,rls arnve to the age of fourteen o. ,if,ee„, the cente; of the under hp, ,n the thicl< part near the n,„uth is f,A,ln! T rated and a piece of copper wire introduced to i; vf t . " turefron, clofing , the aperture afterwards is leng h ,e ' ttlT' tot^e. ,„ a line parallel with the tnouth, and' w 170™° menes are enlarged in proportion, till they are frequentlT^Tc'a^' tothree, oreven four inches in length, a„d„early\swde to W3 generally happens, when the matron is advanced i'n yea s l,^ co ftquently the mufcles are relaxed, fo that poffibly old a« LL" obtatn greater refpeft than this very lingula 'ornament. ^ ^ The manners and difpofition of the neonl^ i,^..« to thofe in coo.. Rive^ and ^.^l^'^^sZ^t::^ faendsntPortMulgrave, but this may. perhaps, in fome m" fure be accounted for from their enlarged fociety. and thX "on ftant mtercourfe with each other. Their traffic, and indeed all their concerns, fo far as fell under Z:yZT"- T'^ '"'' -""-^^"""'^ g-'-t order g.; atity they conftantly came along-fide to trade with us at dav- l.ght m themormng. and never failed to fpend more than ha f an hour m f,„g.ng before the traffic co„m,enced. The Chief of the tnbe has always the entire management of .all the trade belo git Z^:S: ^"'"^"■"«"^''''-' -"a>ore oftheirfurfad? IS .radir''lh ''"^''"" •' ?' """' ''""S-fide to trade, whilft he i t.adn,g, they watt wtth patience till he l,,.s done, and if i„ their ^ ^ opinion, i88 1787. June. :t j " i'> A . j ii ^B ^^'-IB^! Hf^jtfll nfli Hwlnli A VOYAGE TO THE opinion he has made a -ood market, tl ey frequently emnloy him to fell tiieir fkina : fometimes, indeed, they are extremely jealous of each other, and ufb every nrecaution to prevent their nci-hbours from obfe. ving what articles they obtain ia exchange for their commodities. About twelve o'clock they conftantly left the fliip, and went on more, where they iiaid about an hour, which titne, as we had fre- quent or.portunities of obferving, was taken up in eatiui^ This evidently fhews, that they have at leaft cne>.^ meal in\he day and that it is regulated by the fun. They likewife frequently left us about four in the afternoon ; but this time was not fo exadly obferved as at noon. Towards the evening we in general had far the greateft number of vifitants j but by this time the trade of the ) MIL Ji^ 190 •f A VOYAGE TO THE he took gre?\t pains to mak': me underftand, that notwithftandlng our ap])aiciu inperiurity in poficiiing various ufeful articles, which tlicy lid not, yet that our origin was the fame with thcir's, that the) came from above as well as we, and that the Sun animated and kept alive every creature in the univerfe. Th^^fe notions of the Chiet i.amcdiately brought to my recoUeftion liiofe beautiful lines 01 Pope, in hi^ Eflay on Man. " Lo ! the DOor Indian whofe untutor'd mind, , " Sees God ill clouds, or hears lum in tlie wind, *' H's foul, proud fcjence never taught to ftray, " Far as the folar walk or milky way, " Yet fimplc nature to his hope has giv'n • , ; " Behind the cloud-topt hill an humble He^v'n j * " Some fafcr world in depth of woods embrac'd, V " Some happier ifland in the watry wafte, " Where flaves once more their native land behold, " No fiends torment, no Cliriflians thirll: for gold. " To be, contents his natural delire, " He afks no angel's wing, no feraph's fire, " But thinks admitted to that equal fky, " His faithful dog fliall bear him company." The Indians here alluded to by Pope, are undoubtedly thofe of South America ; yet many of thefe lines are applicable to the peo- ple on this fide of the continent. The man I have juft been fpeaking of had, no doubt, fome idea U a 3u] reme Bcinj; j and if we admit the probability of their mrrnlrc': an svening longs being intended as a kind of adoration to that Supreme Being, it will ferve to give us no very inadequate idea of their religion. T canoes here are conftrufled in much the fame manner as thofe at Port Mulgrave j but the large ones are finiflied in a more com- NORTH-WEST COaST OF iMUlCA. ■ "Ci""""-'"* """'■ ■•' '»" '»" ««". » Captain Cook dunng his ZZlZfT *^ "=" "'"» In .-cgard to the language here. I have fome rcafon to thinkJt ;. "early the fame with that at Port Mukrave hZ. p.--haps be i„ my power ,o oUalnk^Zl^^ZlZ" "'" (peamg this article before we leave the coaft 1 1-„ r L°" '^' jea at a future opportunity. ' ' "'" ''''^''™ '^' ^"^^ the^riunr'T"""""!' *" °"' '-''= '■--^'l nearly over by the 2ft June and we perceived on the 2.d the natives were ftrin- Our fuccefs at this place, if it did not anfwer ourmoftfan™;„, gether wnh a large parcel of indifferent nieces and dins »T .' hundred good feals. and a great number' Jrfine bearr^at "' , as alfo the different degrees of eftimation they are hdtl in ; iron, 191 i >. h-: 192 1787. June. - I J * ' (If \l'j\"\ '''4-t^ 1; fib. M^ A VOYAGE TO THE iron, however, may juftly be reckoned the ftaple commodity, every thing elfe depending, in a great mcafure, 01 fancy and caprice. Seals and beaver tails, we brought to a regular ftandard price, a ring being uniformly given for a tail or a feal-lkin ; fo that tbai part of our traffic was quickly difpatched. We now wait only for a fair wind to carry us from this place. Flufhed with our late fuccefs, we are willing to hope, that the coaft will yet afford us things of far greater confequence. Be this as it may, thou mayeft expe6l at every opportunity to hear from thine ever, W. B. Norfolk Sound,' 24th June. LETTER XXXIV. EARLY in the morning of the 23d of June, a light Wefterly breeze fpx'inging up, we unmoored, and at fix o'clock weighed anchor, and made fail. On getting in our fmall bower, we found about twenty fathom of the cable cut by the rocks, and being unfit for fervice, it was condemned. At noon, Cape Edgcombe bore North 65 deg. Weft, about three miles dift'.nt from fiiore, and our meridian altitude gave 56 deg. 48 min. North latitude. Captain Dixon's intention was to keep well 1: m < ,! N il. i£ ^b^l !l ^H^^^i ■ ' w .:i;|, iSli^^H iflliMtf'"^' ' mfce^B M 11 ^■M't., ,.'i n ±:^z±=±: -i I h =d Naulii- MiK-s SKETCH br l\im|p.ilk '■/ ' !\'HJ' //..'AA.v 0" 10 'T- t /;///. /'/ -M -[--— f f-===F==F /•,i!./,.l,.„u III. .1.1 .<■ l-i,, ■■!•'■ II- i i*ii!.f,^/:.,t,^ '■//, J.f J'l,,*,^ f.,f ,.■'..■. ih>-N iw;.v;'/-,v;/. iu,....-.-.< !..,.J.n..-j X:-/-.' r.. u\ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. well in with the land all along the coaft, in order to examine every place where there was a probability of finding inhabitants. In the afternoon the breeze frertiened, and at fix o'clock we faw a fine en- trance, bearing Baft North Eaft, on which we mortened fail, and flood in for It. On our approaching neater in with the land, the channel a-head had the appearance of a river from the North • but the tide fetting ftrongly out of it, and the wind fiiifting to the Northward, we ftood into a fine harbour, which now opened to the South Eaft. At the entrance we had foundings from fifty to fixty fathom water, over a rocky bottom ; but as we advanced far- ther m, the foundings lefTened to twenty-one fathom, with mud on which we came to an anchor, being compleatly land-locked, and within mufquet fliot of the fhore, both to the Southward and Northward. >W I' ■ M ^>' 'm Though this appeared a moft eligible fpot for the natives to take up their abode in, yet no people were to be feen. On this, a four pounder was fired in the evening, in order to excite the curiofity of the inhabitants, if there lliould be any within hearing. The morning of the 24th was very fine, but no Indians to be feen, on which the whale-boat was hoifted out, and Captain Dixon went in her to look for inhabitants, in the adjacent creeks and har- bours. A pafl-age up a corner of the bay, to the Eaftward of our ftation, was the place which firft engaged his attention : he re- turned from thence about twelve o'clock, but without fiiccefs. The creek run a -confiderable diftance in land,' and terminated at the foot of a mountain, from whence it received a copious fupply of frefii water, occafioned by the heat of the fun melting the fnow on the tops of the mountains, and which now had fuch power as to fupply a conftant rivulet. B b Near I ii n 194 1787. Jvme. A VOYAGE TO THE Near this place were the vcftigcs of an Indian hut, wliich fecmecl to liave bc2n recently taken away, and i)robably had been the teni- poiary habiuuion of i'unx^ hunthig party. Various kinds of flow- ers and flowering ilirubs, were I'print^ing up in the valley near the rivulet, and though no inhabitants were found here, yet the place feems peculiarly eligible for a Jumnier relidence, and more fo, as there is a probability of meeting with plenty of line falmon ; fo that I have little doubt of its being conftanlly frequented by the natives, farther on in the feafon. r'ft. i * After dinner. Captain Dixon went to examine the pafTageto the Northward. The afternoon being very fine, our furs were got upon deck, and fpread out to air ; they had not received the leaft damage by being packed in puncheons ; fome of the inferior ones were grown mouldy, but that, when dry, was eafdy rubbed off. Cap- tain Dixon not returning when the evening came on, we began to feel a good deal of anxiety for his fafcty, though he hadfevenpeo- ])le in the boat well armed -, hovvcvc;-, about eleven o'clock we were relieved from our fears by the boat's return j they had not met with the leall vefHgc of any inhabitants, though they had been at leaft fix leagues diftant from the veilel. Several of our powder-barrels being unhooped, and the powder grown wet and damp, this harbour was judged a moft eligible fpot to dry the powder, and get the barrels repaired, efpecially as the weather was remarkably clear and ferene ; fo at eight in the morn- ing of the 25th, the gunner took the powder ou fliore, and the cooper was fent to repair the calks. In the mean time. Captain Dixon went in the boat to examine about the entrance into this harbour, as we had taken notice, in the afternoon of the 23d, of fome inlets to the Southward and Weftward. The day proved remark- I " A • NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. remarkably fine. The povvd.r wa. got into very good order, and 1787. brought on board early in tlic afternoon. The carj)cnters were on J"'"^- ihore, and cut a top-nuft, and lonie fpars for various ufes. About fcvcn o'clock Captain Dixon returned, having met with no better fliccef. than before ; he had l)cen in feveral bavs at a con- Klerable chftance f,om the iia> hour, but could not perceive the lealt traces of people or habitations. This harbour is fituated in 56 and our longitude 134 deg. 54 min. Weft. On our approaching ftill nearer the land, there was every ap- pearance of a fine bay, the furtheft point to the Eaftward bearing North 3 5 deg. Eaft ; and the Weftermoft point, which was very rocky. North 45 deg. Weft, two miles diftant. At three o'clock the whale-boat was Ijoifted out, and Mr. Tur- ner fent to found the entrance into the bay, and look for a harbour. He returned at five o'clock, and reported, that the greater part of the bay was flioal water, and that there was no probability of meeting with a convenient birth to anchor in. At fix o'clock the weather turned hazy, with frequent fqualls, which caufed us to double reef the top-fails, and haul by the wind to the Southward. At eight o'clock tlie land bore from North 60 deg. •?:i t. m NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. deg. Eaft to Weft ; and the extremes of a large ifland from North fyS;. 6 deg. Eaft, to North 26 deg. Weil. June. The weather in the morning of the 28th. was thick and hazv. atterded with a frefti breeze from the Weftwaul. In the courlb of the forenoon, we faw land to the Northward and Weftward about four miles diftant; but the weather ftill continued fo very hazy that It was by no means prudent to ftand dofe in with it. ^ About three in the afternoon, tlic day clearing up, we had acoocl view of the land, the extremcUf which bore from North 12 deg Eaft to South 65 deg. Eaft, and an opening, which had the appear-' ance of a deep bay, North 47 deg. Eaft. about three leagues diftant. We fteered diredly for this bay. expeding to find a harbour but on approachmg quite cJofe to the land, we found it a ftraight bold fliore, without the leaft (helter. The Northermoft point is a remarkably high barren rock, and was covered with an innume- rable qv amity of various kinds of birds. During the night, and the forenoon of the 29th, we plied occa- fionally, the weather being thick and hazy. Our latitude at noon, was 55 deg. 18 min. North ; and the longitude 134 deg. 56 min! Weft. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we had a fight of the land, the extremes of which bore from North Weft to South Eaft by Eaft. During the night, and the forenoon of the 30th, we had light variable wii.Js, the weather ftill thick and hazy, which occafioned us to make frequent boards, always endeavouring to keep as near the coaft as was confiftent with prudence. At noon wc fm land to 197 III >:\} lyB ' W, 17S7. Tune. A V O Y A G E T O T H E to the Northward and Eaflward, about four leagues diflant ; our nicridian altitude gave S5 <-^^Z- '3 "^i"- North latitude. We faw the appearance of an inlet, bearing North 58 deg. Eaftj but light variable winds prevented us from making ang great progrefs to- wards it ; however, a ficfli Weflevly breeze fpringing up at five o'clock, we were enabled to ftand right in for the pailage ; but this was of fliort continuance, the breeze foon dying away, and was fucceeded with light winds, in ahuoll every direflion. At eight o'clock we hw an ifland to the Northward, which bore from North Eall: by EaO, to Eaft by North, about four leagues diflant J the weather during the night was moderate and hazy. At l^ven o'clock in the morning of the i ft of July, having a frefli Wefterly breeze, we ftretched to the South Eaft, the land in fight beariiig from North 22 deg. Weft, to South Eaft half liaft, and the body of an illand feen the preceding evening, North 30 deg. Eaft, fix miles diftant. At noon, we mw a deep bay, which bore North Eaft by Eaft ; the extreme point to the Northward North Eaft by North ; and the Eaftermoft land South Eaft, about kven lea-^ucs diftant. Our latitude was 54 deg. 22 min. North j and the longitude 133 deg. 50 min. Weft. During the afternoon, we had light variable winds, on which we ftood to the Northwa'd, for fear we (liould get to leeward of the bay in figlit, and we were determined to make it if pofiible, as there v.-as every probability of meeting with inhabitants. During the night we had light variable airs in every direflion, to<^cther with a heavy fwell from the South Weft ; fo that in the morning of the 2dj we found our every effort to reach the bay m- etfcetual ; NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. efFeauah however, a moderate breeze fp ringing up at North Eaft, weftood n. for the land clofe by the wind with our ftarboard tacks on boai-cl At feven o'clock, to our very great joy, we faw feveral canoes fnll of Indians, who appeared to have been out at fea makmg towards us. On their coming up with the vefTel, we found them to be a finding party , but fome of them wore excel- lent beaver cloaks, the fight of which--but at prefent I muft lay down my pen, with a promife to refume it foon. Thine aflbredly Off Queen Charlotte's Islands, > July 4th. I W. B. LETTER XXXV. 199 1787. July. T DOUBT not but thou haft cenfured me in « good, fet, holi- ± day terms," for tlie abrupt conclufion of my laft, at a time when we were becoming the favourites of fortune ; -but I hope now to make thee ample amends for this bia/us, by an account of the fuccefs we have met with, and which equals our moft fans^uine expeflations. The Indians we fell in with in the morning of the 2d of July did not feem inclined to difpofe of their cloaks, though we endea- voured to tempt them by exhibiting various articles of trade, fuch as toes, hatchets, adzes, bowels, tin kettles, pans, See. their atten- tion (eemed entirely taken up with viewing tlie vede'l, whicli they ap[)a- m i 111 I B| * 11 200 A VOYAGE TO THE ' I7S7. July. K. i%P -r * f apparently did with marks of wonder and furprize. This we looked on as a good omen, and the event fliewed, that/or once wc were not miflaken. After their curiofity, in fome meafure, fubfided, they began to trade, and we prcfently bought what cloaks and ikins they had got, in exchange for toes, which they leemed to like very much. They made figns for us to go in towards the fhore, and gave us to underftand, that we fhould find more inhabitants, and plenty of furs. By ten o'clock we were within a mile of the fhore, and faw the village where thefe Indians dwelt right a-breafl: of us : it confifted of about fix hi'.ts, which appeared to be built in a mori' regular form than any we had yet feen, and the fituation very pleafant, but the fhore was rocky, and afforded no place for us to anchor in. A bay now opened to the Eaftward, on which we hauled by the wind, which blew pretty frefh from the Northward and Eaftward, and fteered diredlly for it. During this time, feveral of the people whom we traded with in the morning, had been on (liore, probably tofliew their newly acquired bargains j but on feein.f us Iteer foi* tlie bay, they prefently pufhed after us, joined by feveral othei!' canoes. As we advanced up the bay, therfe appeared to be an excellent harbour, well land-locked, about a league a-head ; Wc had found-* ings from ten to twenty-five fathom water, over a rocky bottom, but unluckily, the harbour trended right in the wind, and at one o'clock the tide fet fo ftrongly againft us, that we found it impofli- ble to make the harbour, as we loft ground every board, on which . ' we I ii NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. love Indians. tlon Z -7 7!"™=""''- «'>'^h abfolutery beggars a!l defcrin- beheve the evidence of our fentes. There were ,cn canoes about the ft.p, which contained, as nearly as I could eflimate. .ao peon many of thefe brought moll beautiful beaver cloaks othersle,: lent fens, and, ,n ftort, none came empty handed and the rapi. peafing, they fairly quarrelled with each other about which fliouUfell Ins cloak 6rft, and feme aftuaily threw their furs on board, ,f nobody was at hand to leceive them, but we took 17 cular care to let none go from the veflb. unpaid! Toes weTe aCft the only article we bartered with on this occaf.on, and indeedThey were taken fo veiy eagerly, that there was not the leaft occafion o offer any thing elfe In lefs than half an hour we purchafed ^e r 300 beaver flcns. of ,„ excellent quality; a circuLance wlTh greatly ra.fed our fpirits, and the more, as both the plenty of fine furs, and the avidity of the natives in parting with them, were eoL vincing proofs that no traffic whatever had recently been carried on near this place, and confequen.ly we might e.pea a continu- a 101, o this plentiful commerce. That thou mayeft form fome Idea of he cloaks we purchafed liere, I (hall jult obfcrve, that thev generally contam three good fca otter fkins, one of which is cut iii two pieces, ai^terwards they are neatly fewed together, foasto form a fquare, and are loofely tied a'bout the (liouldeis with fmall lea- ther ftrings faftened on each fide. , At three o'clock, our trade being entirely over, and the wind ftiU agwnft us, we made iail, and flood out of the bav, intending to ■Cc ' 'try 201 we We the main top.fail to the maft. in order to trade with the „„. July- tl :ii>. H-.r. \ lf:r do2 AVOYAGE TO THE 1787. July. m try again for the harbour In the morning. At eight o'clock the points of the bay we had lately left, bore from North 19 deg. Eaft to Eaft, about three leagues diftant. During the night we ftretch- ed to the Southward and Weft ward, plying as occafion required- In the morning of the 3d, we had a frefli Eafterly breeze, and fqually weather, with rain j but as we approached the land, it grew calm ; and at ten o'clock, being not more than a mile diftant from ftiore, the tide fet us ftrongly on a rocky point to the Noith^ ward of the bay, 011 which the whale-boat and yawl were hoifted out and fent a-head, to tow the veflel clear of the rocks. St (Ml Several canoes came along-fide, but we knew them to be our friends whom we had traded with the day before, and found that they were ftripped of every thing worth purchafmg, which made lis lefs anxious of getting into our propofed harbour, as there was a greater probability of our meeting with frelh fupplies of furs to the Eaftward. At three o'clock a frefh breeze fpringing up, we hoifted in the boats, and the weather turning hazy, weftretched to the South Weft, tacking occafionally during the night. In the morning of the 4th the land in fight bore from North 7^ deg. Eaft to South 48 deg. Eaft, about four leagues diftant. At noon the head of the bay we firft made, and which I ftiall diftin- guifli by the name of Cloak Bay, bore nearly Eaft, about four leagues diftant. Our meridian alitude gave 54 deg. 14 min. North lati- tude; and the longitude was 133 deg. 23 min. Weft. We found the variation of the compafs to be 24 deg. 28 min. Eafterly. During the afternoon we had a frefli Northerly breeze, and cloudy weather. At three o'clock we fay a bay to the Eaftward, 2 oil NORTH-WEST COAST Of AMERICA. oil which we hauled on a wind, and ftood towards it ; but finding no appearance of a harbour, nor any fign of inhabitants, when at two miles diftance fiom the land, we bore awav to the Southward At eight o'clock we tncked and ftood to the Weftward • the ex tremes of the land at that time bore from North to South 48 deg. Eaft, about four miles diftani from fliorc. ' During the night we had light baffling winds, with intervenhig calms ; but m the morning of the 5th, a breeze fprung up from the North Weil. During the forenoon we flood in for the fhore making occafional boards, in order that we might lofe as little ground as poflible. At noon the land in figlit bore from South 58 deg. Eaft to North n deg. Weft, diftance from fliore about three miles. Our meridian ahitude gave ,3 deg. 48 min. North latitude. In the afternoon feveral canoes came along-fide, bring- ing a number of good cloaks, which they difpofed of very eagerly j but trade feemed now to have taken a different turn ; brafs pans pewter bafons, and tin kettles, being the articles moft efteemcd by thele people. ^ ^ The wind continuing fteady at North Weft, Captain Dixon judged It more advantageous for us to ply along fliore, as circum- ftances required, than come to anchor, efpecially as we had every reafon to conclude, that the natives did not live together in one focial community, but were fcattered about in different tribes, and probably at enmity with each other. At eight o'clock the extremes of the land in fight bore from North 20 deg. Weft to South 60 <\cg. Eaft, and a kind of inlet or bay North 70 deg. Eaft ; i^ur miles diftant from fliore. 203 1737. July- \\ 1 r r The 11 A VOYAGE TO THE The Indians did not leave us till evening came on, and gave us to underftand, that they would return in the morning with more furs. During the night, the weather was moderate, with a fteady North Wefterly breeze ; fo that in the morning of the 6th, we were well in with the land. In the forenoon our new friends returned, according to their promife, with fome excellent fea otter cloaks, which they difpofed of with the fame facility as before. Our lati ^ tude at noon was 53 deg. 34 min. North; the extremes of the land bore from South 58 deg. Eaft to North 25 deg. Weft. The breeze frefhening, we hove to in order to give the, Indians a better opportunity of trading, and by two o'clock we had entirely ftripped them. Thefe people were evidently a different tribe from that we met with in Cloak Bay, and not fo numerous -, I could not reckon up more than feventy-five or eighty perfons along-fide at one time. The furs in each canoe feemed to be a diftinft property, and the people were particularly careful to prevent their neighbours from feeing what articles they bartered for. Soon after two o'clock the Indians left us ; on which we made fail, and ftood along fhore, tack- ing^ as occafion required. Since the 2d, we had coafted along fhore more than thirty miles, and now meeting with a frefli tribe of Indians, we were convinced that this plan was attended with better and fpeedier fuccefs than our laying at anchor could poffibly be. At eight o'clock the ex- tremes of the land in fight bore from North 10 deg. Eaft to South. 75 deg. Eaft ; our diftance from fliore about fix miles. The wea- ther ■ :M ■^ illi mf 1 i> NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. It'dttw^^' "'f T "°'"'''' '"' "^ P^^^^ '^ '^' South- ,787. ward and Weftward, making boards as occafion required. A- In the morning of the 7th we flood in for the land, and at ten o clock, feemg a deep bay which bore North North Weft, we hauLd on a wind and fleered direftly for it. thinking it probably might be mhabited ; but on approaching well in with the land, there wa no appearance of a harbour, or any inhabitants, on which we bore away to the Southward. At noon the extremes of the land btte from South Eafl to North 60 deg. Wefl, four miles diflant from \J^' ''""'^' ^3 deg. 16 min. and longitude 133 deg. ,^ min. Wefl. " 00 6 ^y About two o'clock in the afternoon, being clofe in fhore, we faw feveral canoes puttmg ofl", on which we fhortened fail, and lay to for them, as the wind blew pretty frefh. The place thefe people came from had a very Angular appearance, and on examming it narrowly, we plainly perceived that they lived in a very la.^ge hut built on a fmall ifland, and well fortified after the mannefof an T4;ZZ """ ^' ^^^-Suirhedthis place by the name The tribe who inhabit this hippah, feem well defended by na- ture from any fudden alTault of their enemies , for the afcent to it from the beach is fleep, and difficult of accefs ; and the other fides are well barncadoed with pines and bruHi-wood ; notwithftandins which they have been at infinite pains in raifing additional fences of rails and boards ; fo that I fliould think they cannot fail to repel any tribe that fhould dare to attack their fortification. A mini- te5 . !■ I.i \ i 1 p; :|| Wf 'jpfl ^^^ vm SI I ji hi ■ i '■' IX 2C>6 A V O Y A G E T O T H E A number of circiimftanccs had occurred, fince our firft trnde In Clonk Bay, which convh-iced us, that tlie natives at this ]>lace were .of a more Tavagc dilpofition, and had lels inteicoujfc with each other, than any Ir.dians we had met with on the coaft, and we be- gan to fufj;cct that thi;y wcie cannibals in fome degree. Captain Dixon no fooner faw the fortified hut juft mentioned, than this fufpicion was ftrengthened, as it was, he faid, built exaftly on the plan of the hippah of the favages at New Zealand, The people, osi»>doming along-lide, traded very quietly, and ftrongly importuned us by figns, to come on ihore; at the fame time giving us to un- derftand (pointing towards the Eaft) that if we vifitedthat part of the coaft, the inhabitants there would cut ofFour heads. This was an unqueftionable proof, that they were at variance with their neighbours, and their hoftile appearance fufficiently confirmed it, Leing well armed with knives and ipears. I am not fond of hazarding C(j«/V^«r«, yet Tcannot help remark- ing, that though the behaviour of thefe people was harmlefs and jnoffenfive, yet their attempt to perfuade us to go on fliore, is an additional proof in favour of our fufpicion ; they certainly wanted to decoy us to the hippah, and there, no doubt, we fhould have been inftantly butchered. We purchafed a number of excellent cloaks, and fome good fkins from thefe Indians, for which we gave a variety of articles, fome chufmg toes, and others pewter bafons, tin kettles, knives, &c. This tribe appeared the leaft we had yet feen ; I could not reckon more than thirty-four or thirty-fix people in the whole party ; but then it fhould be confidered, that thefe were probably chofen men, who perhaps expedled to meet with their enemies, as they were jequally prepared for war or trade. Having NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Having purchadd every thing thefc favagcs had to difpofe of «ia no mor^ canoes coming near us. at eight o'clock we made fail! Ihe extremes of the land in fight bore from Eaft South Eaft to Nortii Weil by North , diilance from iliore about feven miles,. During the night we ftood off and on, with the wind at North Weil, and in the morning of the 8th, we ftoot were of an inferior kind, confifting chici y of o d cloaks, pretty mucj;i wore -, thefe were generally pur- chafed with brafs pans, knives, and buckles. The Indians being ftripped ofall their furs, left the veflel immediately, and at four o'clock we made fail, ftretching to the South Weft as ufual. During the night, andgreateft part of the 21ft, we had aftrong North Wefterly breeze, with frequent fqualls. Our obfervation at noon NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. I If'] tide, cauled the heav eft cjofs ic- yvp h-,A r i • , " ' — ^ cioii, lu. Me had iccn clunng the Vc}i.'ge. The weather on the 22fl ui- m^,i ...^ i i ^ rroaaate and hazy ; our ob^M-vn r ^t noon gave ;. deg. ,o min. K„„h hmu/e D ,W , e" afonoon wc made ...on boa.ds, in order to keep wdl ;„::!, ll: J'l "'"^"'™"3 °f "« ^3)-"-■ ^^P-" Di-n Pcnfitted h'i . to c„L t boa, d. 1 he moment he got on the quarter deck he be-an to tell a ed ni vam, for he became extremely ufl-ful to us in our traf- E e ; 217 1787. July. t S I iFil r. i ■ v^ I 'i ' ii 2lS 1787- J"iy. A VOYAGE TO THE fic; whenever any dlfpute or ni i flake arofe in the unavoidable hurry occafioned by fo great a number of traders, they always re- ferred the matter to him, and were conftantly fatislied with his de- termination. On our pointing to the Eaftward, and afking the old man whe- ther v;e Ihould meet with any furs there, he gave us to underlland, that it was a different nation from his, and that he did not even underftand their language, but was always at war with them ; that he had killed great numbers, and had many of their heads in his pofleflion. The old fellow feemed to take particular pleafure in relating thefe circumflances, and took uncommon pains to make us com- piehend his meaning j he clofed his relation with advifmg us not to come near that part of the coaft, for that the inhabitants would certainly deilroy us. I endeavoured to learn how they difpofed of the bodies of their enemies who vi^ere flain in battle j and though I could not underftand the Claicf clearly enough pofitrcely to affert, that they are feafted on by the vitlors \ yet there is too much rea- fon to fear, that this horrid cuftom is pradifed on this part of the coaft J the heads are always prefcrved, as {landing trophies of vic- tory. Of all the Indians we had feen, this Chief had the mofl fava^^e afpe^, and his whole appearance fufficiently m:\rked him as a proper perfon to lead a tribe of cannibals. His ftature was above the com- mon fize ; his body fpare and thin, and thougli at firft fight he ap- peared lank and emiiciated, yet his Ilep was buld and firm, and his limbs apparently ftrong and mufcuiar j his eyes were large and ^;ipg- ling, andlcemed ready toilart cut of their fockctsj his forehead deeply 2 wrinkled. NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. wrinkled, not merely by age, but from a continual frown ; all this jomed to a long vifage, hollow cheeks, high elevated cheek bones' and a natural ferocity of temper, formed a countenance not eafily beheld without fome degree of emotion : however, he proved very ufeful m conduaing our traffic with his people, and the intelli- gence he gave us, and the methods he took to make himfelf undcr- ftood, fhewed him to polfefs a ilrong natural capacity. ^ Befides the large quantity of furs we got from this party, (at leaft 350 fkins) they brought feveral racoon cloaks, each cloak confiftmg of feven racoon Ikins, neatly fewed together; they hnd alfo a good quantity of oil in bladders of various fizes, from a pint to near a gallon, which we purchafed for rings and buttons : tliis oil appeared to be of a molt excellent kind for the lamp, was per- fectly fweet, and chiefly colleaed from the fat of animals. By feven o'clock we had entirely ftripped our numerous trader* of every faleable article, on which they left us, and paddled for the fhore. The wind ('uring the night being variable, we tacked occa- fionally, m order to keep as near the coalt as \a^s confiltent with prudence. Every perfon on boi.rd I3 greatly elated with our prefent d\ •i^U'ig pror])c6ts, but no one more io thnn thy alTured friend, W- R Off Qt;een CriARrnTTE's Isi.an-ds, ' ** • -o. Jiily 30U1. 219 1787. July. 220 1787. July. A VOYAGE TO THE LETTER XXXVII. I HAVE frequently obferved, that people in general, when reading a hiftory, whether real or fi6litious, and whether the. hero of it is fortunate or overwhelmed with misfortunes, are ever anxious to come at the cataftrophe. Should tliis be thy cafe at pre- fent, and thou really art impatient to know the extent of our good fortune, the prefent epiftle will ferve to relieve thee in that parti- cular. In the morning of the 30th July, we had a moderate breeze at South, the weather tolerably fine. Our latitude at noon was 52 d^g. 30 min. North} the fhore about four miles diftant. In the afternoon we had eight canoes along-fide, but they brought very few Ikins, and thofe of an inferior quality ; at the fame time giv- ing us to underftand, that their ftock was nearly exhaufted : they were part of the traders who had been with us the day before ; fome of them had been on a fifhing party, and caught a number of halibut, which proved a very feafonable fupply, our fifli having been expended fome time. Hitherto all the people we had met with at thofe iflands, though evident') of a lavage difpofition, had behaved in a quiet orderly manner, but this evening they gave us a convincing proof of their . mifchievous diipofition, and that in a manner which fliewed a con- fideiablc degree of cunning, T-f- - XllV Si' NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. thXtaffiT'' "''° ^ ^' "■' '"'"'"' '° «■> ''«f"»y prolonged me hods 1 "" '"'*°'"'^- "■'' -^'l-™.,, J by various paddled Ally a-ftern, and feeing fome fkins piled againil one of the cab.„ wmdows. one of the Indians thmft his fpear throu." t i' order to ftea. the furs, but perceiving the nolk alarmed us t'h: paddled away wuh precipitation , however, to make them renfrbl'I that we were able to punifh attempts of this fort, even at dif tanc^ we fired feveral mnfquets after them, but did not pe ceiv; hat they were attended with any fatal efleas. At eio-ht ocio I tTT:^ 1"" 'r"°^.^ ''""' '"'"' " "^s. Weft .: ot th £htt h ; , r" *'■'' ""''' ''''*^'" ^'o"" *<"e- During tha night we had light winds, and cloudy weather. It being pretty evident from our lad traders, that few more f-, ,, could be expeaed from this part, and the timebcingnearr*, f d when we were to join the King George, at Nootka Sound C,t . m D,xon judged it n,„ft prudent to make the beft of his vav thi- thei, e pecallyas the liglit variable winds, with frequent interven- mg cams, winch now conlhntly attended us, made it " ™. bable, that we Ihould be fome time in eftbaing our pun^^''« "-"•-.' ^^^^ Zt.i f ^1 M r lit 322 A VOYAGE TO THE In the forenoon of the ift of Auguft, we had a heavy fwell from the Southward. At noon we faw Cape St. James, which bore South 5 deg. Ealt. Our latitude was 52 deg. 10 min. North ; the iiearcft land three leagues diftant. At eight in the evening, the extremes of the land bore from South 14 deg. Weft, to North 54 deg. Weft, two leagues diftant. Towards the clofe of the day, a canoe with fourteen people came along-fide, but they had fcarcely any thing to fell ; they gave us to underftand, that one of their companions was dead of the v/ounds he received from our mufquets ; and at the fame time endeavoured to make us fcnfd:)le, that they were not at variance \\ ith us on that account : indeed they came along-fide the vcllel without the leaft fear, and it is probable that the defign of their vifit was to inform us of the above circumftance. ■ % "t. During the night we had conftant heavy rain, the weather thick and hazy. In the morning of the 2d we had a light breeze from the Eaftward, the weather ftill thick and hazy. At noon, Cape St. James bore South South Weft, about four leagues diftant. At five in the after- noon the rocks off the Cape bore South 36 deg. Weft, two leagues diftant i the weather was thick and hazy, the wind light and varia- ble, and foon afterwards it fell calm, with a heavy fwell from the South Eaft. Our fituation was now dan;';erous, foi' we had every reafon to think, that the vcifcl was driftmg direftly upon the rocks, and the weather was fo very hazy, that we could not difccrn any ol)jev tolerably foooth, fo that the boats were of g,ea ftr- v.ce. At ,e„ o'clock we had foundings with ,00 fathom lin ov r a rocky bottom : at eleven we ftruck bottom with eighty five fathom and a. twelve, with feventy.five fathom, afterwards we got no bottom wtth a line of .■ ao fathom, which g ,e „s reafon"o hope that we were fefely paft the rocks At one o'clock in the morning of the 3d, a light breeze fDrinrr .ng «1. at North En.t. the boats were hoifted if, and al .he pi" PC except the watch on deck, fent ,0 their hammocks , bu at t™ the people were tmmediately turned np, the boats again Cfted out, and fent .0 tow the veflel a-head, the weather was thick Lazy, attended w,th conllant drizzling rain. At four o'clock, a frem breeze coming on from the Southward, T , wV^"'" ''°"^"' '"• ^* «-■ "<= '^^ked and (too to ^» South Weft. At (even, we faw the rocks bcarin, Weft N,-," Weft, about a nule diftant. The forenoon was thick and ha- but ratluT clear,„g at eleven o'clock, we faw the rocks bearinVwJft' by South five nnlcs diftant. 0„r latitude at noon was 5, d^ 50 m,n. North Duru,g the afternoon and cvcuiug, we had f eft ^.eezes at South and So.th Wert, with hazy weath r. A^^ !," o c ock. Cape St. James bore U'eft half South diftant five leanK. - to us 'a V w f "^ '""■' ^"" '"■' '"■°"'' '■" ""— ""ly fomtnat. to us. a iav temarks concerning them will, pcrliaps, not be «n- accep- 223 1787- Auguft. i: fir ■■ IP ■r -I K'l r't, 224 Audult. % m A VOYAGE TO THE ncceptablc to thee. There is every reafon to fuppofe, not only from the number of inlets we met with in coaitiiig along the Ihore, but from our meeting the fame inhabitaiits on the oppofite fides of the coaft, that this is not one continued land, but rather forms a group of iflands ; and as fuch, we difriiiguilhed them by the name of ^icai Charlotte's IJIands. They are fituated from 51 UjK J . . . - . ^.. lift'jt. . . f'^T* ^ . . , . . , CCj-'X' • ,-. ^.w- tttS itT' ^frr .... efts •: *m fti ^m ■ :: im^ . ' W^ . - , . -- . "Mr ■■ — » liiSJiiiatl; . / )'o lU- tso. [Wi!. it: i t\ in. 1 : ^ i' P 1 / }'(r>(r'. yy; ff 'o.J/j,\' OF ()f /uj:,\' ( 11^ i.\'i. a ttj: 's' /,v/, . J, ^ /»>S' :m I, ' 11^ North-west coast of America. • of her hufliand and the apologies of her friends could bring back 1787. lier former chcarfulncfs and tranquility. AuguiK Harmony being at length reftored in the canoe, the Chief held up his child, and endeavoured to make us fenfible that it was equally dear vo him as his wife ; intimating at the fame time that though he had received no prefent, yet he hoped we fliould remember his little one ; on this Captain Dixon gave the child a couple of toes, which pleafcd the chief wonderfully ; a few but- tons were alfo diftributcd amongft the other women in the canoe and they left us foon afterwards, perfedly fatisfied with their jwefents. ^ To thofe who are fond of tracing human nature through all Its various ftages, a circumltance of this fort would be peculiarly pleafmg, but I fhall forbear to expatiate on the fubjed, and leave thee to make thy own comments on it. Though every tribe we met with at thefe iflands is governed by its refpeftive Chief, yet they are divided into families, each of which appears to have regulations and a kind of fubordinate go- vernment of its own : the Chief ufually trades for the whole tribe; but I have fometimes obferved that when his method of barter has been difapproved of, each feparate family has claimed a right to difpofe of their own furs, and the Chief always com- plied with this requeft ; whether or no he receives any emolument on thefe occafions I cannot determine. I often endeavoured to gain fome knowledge of their language, but I never could fo much as learn the numerals : every attempt I made of the kind either caufed a farcaltic laugh amonglt the Jn- *' r 2 dians, 227 .■u?!"/ 4 " ►#•.> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ,^IBS 1^ IL25 III 1.4 — A" 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4^ 4^ . ■^ S V 'V^ ^ *> /> 6^ >^. '^5i. '^^..V^ ^28 1787. Augull. A VOYAGE TO THE dians, or was treated by them with filent contempt j indeed many of the tribes who vifited us, were bufied in trading the moment they came along fide, and hurried away as foon as their traffic was over : others, again, who ftaid with us for any length of time, were never of a communicative difpofition, but certainly ikulked about the veflelfor fome evil purpofe, though they never atten pted to board us, as we always kept the greateft part of our people on deck when a number of canoes were near us. If thefe circum- flances are duly confidered, I truft thou wilt not accufe me of in- attention, though it is not in my power to give thee any fpecimen of the language fpoken by thefe people ; however, from what ob- fervations I was able to make, it feems fomething fimilar to that of the inhabitants in Norfolk Sound. In addition to what I have occafionally faid, rcfj^eiSting the fa- vage temper and brutal difpofition of the people at thefe iflands, I cannot help remarking, that there is a kind of ferocity even in their manner of finging. It muft be allowed, that their fongs are performed with regularity, and in good time, but they are en-^ tircly deftitute of that pleafing modulation and harmony of ca- dence, which we had invariably been accuftomed to hear iii the fongs at other parts of the coaft. The number of fea-otter fkins purchafed by us at Queen Char- lotte's Iflands, was no lefs than 1,821, many of them very fine; other furs are found in lefs variety here than in many other parts of the coaft, the few racoons before mentioned, a few pine martin, and fome feals, being the only kinds we faw. Toes, at firft, were quite a leading article in barter; but fo great a number of tiaders required a variety of trade, and we were frequently obliged to pra- duce every article in our poflefTion, before we could pleafc our nu- merous NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. merous friends. Thus in one fortunate n^onth, has our fuccefs been much greater than that probably of both veflels during the reft of the voyage.-So uncertain is the fur trade oa this inhofpi- 229, 1787. Augufl. I fha I now return to our proceedings. On the morning of the 4th we had a moderate breeze at South Weft, and cloudy weather At noon we faw land, which we judged to be the main, bearing South 40 deg. Eaft, about five leagues diftant. In the afternoon the wmd veered to the Weftward, and a heavy fwe^ fet in from the fame quarter, the weather thick and hazy. During the ni<.ht we hauled our wind, in order to clear the point of land to the lia tvvard. In the forenoon of the 5th, having ftill a frefli Wef-" terly breeze we bore away to the South Eaft; and at four in the afternoon changed our courfe to Eaft by North. The weather benig thick and hazy, we tacked occafionally during the nio-ht Early m the morning of the 6th, we made fxil, and fteered'our courfe, with a freili breeze at North-Weft. Our latitude at noon was 49 deg. 48 min. North, which was only twelve miles to tlie Northward of King George's Sound, but we were a confideraMe diftance to the Weftward of it. The afternoon being tolerably c ear^ at fix o'clock, we faw Woody Point bearing North Weft by Weft about four leagues diftant, and a fplit rock oft" the point. North 28 deg. Weft. At eight o'clock,, we hauled by the wind to the South Weft: during the night we. had light airs, with calms by turns. The morning of the 7th was thick and foggy with a heavy Iwell from the Weftward, and quite calm, ^t ten o clock a light breeze fprung up at Soutii Eaft, and the fo. cleared up. The land at noon bore from Nortii Wtft to Eaft South Eaft about two leagues diftant: the latitude was .9 deg. 39 min' North. The brc;ze continuing very light durin the afternoon, our i Ik P'tI V (I ,1 Mil HO 1787. Aiigull. A VOYAGE TO THE our progrcfs towards the found was very (low, and during the night, we pHed to the South Weft, making boards as occafion re- quired. The morning of the 8th was moderate and cloudy, a light' breeze ftill at South Eaft. A ten o'clock we faw a fail to the South Eaft, and prefently afterwards, a fmaller veifel in company. This gave us fome hopes that they might poffibly be the King George and her long boat. We were fteering Eaft North Eaft, and kept on our courfe, as we plainly faw the veflels were bearing down upon us : on the their nearer approach, we found that it could not be Captain Portlock, as the fmall fail was much too large for his long boat. Various now were our conjectures who they could be, or what country they came from ; and Captain Dixon wifhing to be fatisned in this particular, gave orders to tack, and fire a gun to leeward. The fmall vefiel immediately anfwered this fignal, and hoiftcd our Company's colours : by twelve o'clock they f|..oke us, and we learned, to our great joy, that they were from London, and fitted out by our Owners. The fhip was called the Prince of Wales, Captain Col- linett ; and the Hoop, the Princefs Royal, Captain Duncan. We had the pleafure of hearing in general, that our friends in England were in good health; but few of us had fuch particulars as could have been v/iflied for, as (by lome mifrake or other) we were expected to arrive in London river the latter end of tiiis feafon. Thcfc veflels left England in September, 1786, and had fettled a factory at Statens land, for the puipofe of collecting feal Ikin and oil ) from thence they had made the beft of their way to King George's Sound, without touching at any other place- Durini^ fo NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 231 fo long a pafTage, the fcurvy had got a great height among them. 1787. and thougli providentially no lives had been loft, yet many of their ^"^"'^• people recovered very flowiy. On our enquiry what courfe they fteered after doublin- Cape Honi we were informed that they crolTed the line about 1^6 del Weft longitude. In this fituation they fell in with liglit baffling* wuK s and frequent cairns, attended with clofe gloomy fultrv weather, and much rain, which certainly occafioned the very fe vere ficknefs that Iiad prevailed amongft them. We crofted the line in April, 1786, nearly in the fame lonri- tude, and met with light variable winds and gloomy weather 'till we ftretched confiderably to the Weftward, wl,... we again had a regular trade-wind. Thefe circumftances evidently fhew that fuch a courfe ought to be avoided ; and Captain Dixon obferved tint it would be by far the bcft for all veftels bound to the North- Welt coaft of America, after doubling Cape Horn, to fteer dircdiy for the Marquefas ; there they might obtain refrefliments, and at the fame time would be fo well to the Weftward, that in the farther profecution of their voyage, he had every reafon to think, they would efcapethofe climates which we had eiperimentally found to be fo very unhealthy. Mr. John Etches, brother to our managing owner, (who was on board the Prince of Wales) informed me that they had been near a month in King George's Sound, but had done very little buimefs, having found a fliip there called the Imperial Faale commanded by a Captain Berkley. She failed from Oftend the latter end of November, 1786, and arrived at King George's Sound near a month before the Prince of Wales and Piinccfs Royal. Ca])taia 1 ^H a\'^^^H " plH 'i'^^'^^^^^l Jil'^H h uL ^^^^^1 'h '■ ^^^^^^1 i ' pi^^^^^l W' ^^^H 1 ' '^.'^^^^l ^«v^^^^H . 'h - - '^'^^^^1 i ll''^H ll^l '!%^H '''li'^^H ^ ij^^H .i(,ai„ Hanna k-ft tho Sound m September. Tha. ,he natives h.,d ftripped him of L c oaths, and obliged him to adopt their mode of ' i^L a fit" angugc, and well aeqna.nted witli tl,eir temper and difnofi.ion He had made frequent ineurfions into the interior pa „f X Mr. Etehes (from whom I had this intelligence) affured me that no great dependanee could be placed on, M-Lysfto,; Lb n' a very .gnorant young fellow, and frequently co„tra< ft 1 Wm filf , but that entire credit might be given to that p « of \ "' %a.ng h,s adopting the manners of the natives! as he was en„a v" flovenly and duty with the fil.hieft of them all. His knTwledge rf he language was greatly ftort of what he boafted ; leUher was B riiVor :' ;:;"' 'r'"-- '°' "^ ^'^""^ -brae:; capti : Betkleys offe. of takmg h.m on board, and feemcd delighted to hmkhewasgotngtoleave fo uncomfortable a place: h wever adm tt,ng htm to be poffefled of but an ordinary capacitv, he cet^ atnly muft be better acquainted with the people hefe. fr^om mo e Be^v'f !, :■' -"'here can be no doubt but that Ca;«Tn .t"aL«. "'""^'^ "'■='"' '" ■".^"^Sins his traffic 'with Our meeting with thefe veffels was very fortunate, both on their Wllia^ s .T-'" T'= ""'"S GeorgeVSound. and Prince Wilhams Sound bang their next deftination. we not onlv could 2^3 i-S;. Aiiyjft. 1* n I- t H' 1*1 J'. r4 1 iH g inform M' m I r 8' ¥■ 1787. AuClUU. A VOYAGE TO THE inform them that nothing could be expected from, that quarter, but at the fame time point out thc-likdicll: fituations where furs might be procured ; and Captain Dixon urged them by all means to make the N. E. fide of Queen Charlotte's Iflands, and the oppolite land, which we judged to be the main. In the evening of the 8th, Mr. Etches and both the Captains came on board us, and ftaid all night i in order to lofe no time in procuring a chart of the coaft, and in procuring cver^ infor- mation in our power. During the afternoon and night we lay to, and at times made occafional boards, as fuited our conveniency for keeping company, and to be at a proper diftance from the land. t At nine o'clock in the morning of the 9th, we parted company with our new brothers in trade, fainting them with three hearty cheers, and wifhing them fuccefs at leaft equal to our own. My next fhall be a few general remarks concerning the coaft. Adieu. Thine, Off Kino George's Sound, Auguft 9th. I W.B. LETTER XXXVIII. As wc are now taking our final leave of the American coart, a few remarks concerning it, in addition to what I have occafionally fcud, will, perhaps, not be unacceptable to thee. Before •f NORTH-WEST CpAST OF AMERICA. Before Captain Cook's laft voya;;e to the Pacific Ocean, this part of the coalt was Httle known. The celebrated Rufllan navi- gator Beenng, in the year ,74,, fell in witli the land in the ^ititude 58 deg. 28 niin. North, and anchored in codcg. 18 min But the account which is publiihed of his voyage.is very imper- rett and inaccurate. * The Spaniards too. are probably well acquainted with the coaft a httle to the Southward of King George's Sound, and about Cape B-dgcombe, at both which places they anchored in ,77,, and I have reafon to think that their knowledge of this part of the con- tinent is confined to thofe particular fituations. What has been already fald will fl,ew that the principal places afceitanied with accuracy by Captain Cook, were King George's and Pnnce William's Sounds, and the river named afterlin>Tfnd no doubt .t was from the plenty of furs he found in thofe har- bours that this trade was firft fct on foot. Our rivals from the Indies certainly drew their informat on from the fame fource, and . this, in fome refpeds. has not been unlucky on our fide ; for they not expeaing to meet with furs in any other places than thofe # mentioned by Cook, quietly fat down with what they could get ^ in thofe harbours, and confcquently we had to feek for other re- fources or return home empty handed. By this means we fell in with Qiiecn Charlotte's Iflands, which (as I have already fhewn) furpafTed our mod fanguine expedations, and afforded a greater quantity of furs than, perhaps, any place hitherto known, -That we have made confiderable additions to the geography of this coaft, cannot be denied, yet much remains to bedonf , b! deed, fo imperfeaiy do we ftiU know it, that it is in fome meafure S2 to 235 1787. Aiigufl-. • ■ ""'i ' KM r i ''^i ■' •majm 1 n^^^ ^4:' ■■;*; ; f . i it A, <«36 1787. Augtilt. A VOYAGE TO THE" to be doubted whether we have yet fcen the main land -^ certain it is that the coaft abounds with iflands, but whether any land iir have been near is really the continent, remains to be determined by future navigators : Thus much we can venture to affirm, (and which is of thtjirji confequence to this undertaking) that the fur trade is inexhauftible wherever there are inhabitants, and they (experience tells us) are not confined to any particular fituation, but arc fcattered in tribes all along the coaft, which (as far as concerns future traders to examine) extends from 40 to 61 deg^ North latitude.i and from 126 to 155 deg. Weft longitude. This vaft country (with very little deviation) has the appear- ance of one continued foreft, being covered with pines of different fpecies, and thefe intermixed with alder, birch, witch-hazle, &c. befides various kinds of bru(h-wood ; and the vallies and low grounds, which are expofed to the fun, and iheltered from the wind, afford wild currants, goofeberries, raft)erries,. and various other flowery fliri^bs. The foil on the hills is a kind of compoft, confifting of rotten mofs and old decayed tices. This is frequently waflied down into the vallies by the fudden melting of the fnow, and there incorporating with a light fand, forms a foil in which, nioft of our garden productions might be cultivated witli fucccfs^ ' The climate, as may be cxpe.51:ed, is various but ; I do. not think it fo temperate even in King George's Sound as in England^ for the hills of a moderate height are perpetually covered witlx Inow. I have already enumerated the various kinds of birds and ma-, line produdions we have met with. What account I can gjve of the quadrupeds thou, mayeft colled from the various Ikins pur- chafed i ' NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA, chafed by m. The only anirnds w. hw amongft the natives, wee meft.catcefe con,motions, both irom the nature of their weapons, and the favaije difpof.tion of the people, mud be attended with fatal confequences , bdides there rs reoion to fuppofe that numbers are loft at fca, as they ro out to a very conHderable dirtance a filhing, and mould bad wet ther fuddenly come on, it is impoffible for their canoes to live. Thefe crcumftances certainly tend to depopulate the country, andi in fome meafure account for its beii,g fo thinly inhabited ' 237 1787. t: m ' .j-j The ij .3S 1787- A VOYAGE TO THE The peojilc in general are about the middle fize, their limbs ilraight, and tolerably well-fhapcd ; many of the older people arc rather lean, but I never faw one perfon who could be called cor- IHilent amongft them : both fcxes are remarkably diftinguilhcd by high prominent check bones and fmall eyes. A love of dirt •and filth is univerfally predominant all over the coaO. In regard to their complexion, it is no eafy matter to determine what cafl that is ; but if I may judge from the few people I faw tolerably clean, thefe Indians are very little darker than the Europeans in general. Tlie hair of both fexes is long and black, and would be an or- nament to them, V. .re it not for the large quantities of greafe and red oker conftantly rubbed into it, which not only gives it a dif- gufting appearance, but affords a never-failing harbour for ver- min. Sometimes, indeed, the women keep their hair in decent order, parting it from the forehead to the crown, and tying it be- hind after the manner of a club. The young men have no beards, and I was at firft inclined to think that this arofe from a natural want of hair on that part, but I was foon undeceived in this particular, for all the men we faw, who were advanced in years, had beards all over the chin, and fomc of them whifkers on each fide the upper lip. As this fuppofed defeft amongft the natives of America has oc- cafioned much fpeculative enquiry amongfl: the learned and inge- nious, I took every opportunity of learning how it was occafioned, and was given to underftand, that the young men got rid of their beards by plucking them out, but that as they advance in years, the hair is fuffered to grow. In ^^ORTII.WEST COAST OF AMERICA. . In their drefs, there is little variety ; the men generally wearing coats (fuch as I have already defcribed; made of fuch ikins as tancy fuggefts, or their fucccls in hunting furnilhes them with and lometimes the loofe cloak thrown over the flioulders, and tied with fmall leather firings. Bef.des this, fome of the more ci- vilized fort, particularly thofe in Cook's River, wear a fmall piece of fur tied round the waitl. when the heat of the day caufes them to throw their coat afide, or they are difpofed to fell it. The drefs of the women differs in fome refpeas from that of the men • their under garment is made of fine tanned leather, and covers the body from the neck to the ancle, being tied in different parts to make it fit clofe: over this is tied a piece of tanned leather like an apron, and which reaches no higher than the waift-the upper garment is made in much the fame manner as the men's coats and generally of tanned leather, the women not caring to wear furs, as they were always unwilling to be flripped of their gar ments, which, fhould they happen to be worth purchafing. their hufbands alway infifted on their being fold; indeed, the deport- ment of the women in general was decent, modefl, and becom- ing- It might be imagined, that the children of thefe favages would' enjoy the free and unreflrained ufe of their limbs fiom their ear- liefl infancy; this, however, is not altogetiier the cafe- three pieces x)f bark are faftened together, fo as to form a kind of chair the mfant, after being wrapped in furs, is put into this chair, and lafhed fo clofe, that it cannot alter its poflure even with ftru-glino- . and the chair is fo contrived, that when a mother wants to fl-ed her child, or give it the breaft, there is no occafion to releafb it from Its Ihackles. Soft mofs is ufed by the Indian nurfe to keep her child clean 3 but little regard is paid to this article, and the poor infants- 239 1787. Auguft. 1 -, — ij. If ■ ml l^O ■I A VOYAGE TO THE infants afc often terribly excoriated, nay, I have frequently Teen boys of fix or fcven years old, whofe pofleriors have born evident marks of this negle61: in their infancy. Ornaments feem to differ in particular places more than drefs ; for inflance — the aperture, or fecond mouth, a little above the chin, feems confined to the men of Cook's River and Prince William's Sound ; whilft the wooden ornament in the under lip is wore by the women only, m that part of the coail from Port Mulgrave to Queen Charlotte's Illands. Beads are held in much greater eftimation in the harbours firft mentioned than any where elfe within our obfervation. Theff or- naments were undoubtely introduced here by the Ruffians, who have Gonftantly traded with thefe people for many years pad, and beads have been generally ufed in barter, fo that if we make this a rule for judging how far the Ruffians have had a direft inter- courfe on the coaft, it will appear that they have not been to the Eaftward of Cape Hinchinbrook : and I think this conjeflui^e far from improbabld. There is at lead two or three different languages fpoken on the coaft, and yet probably they are all pretty generally underftood ; though if we may credit the old Chief at Queen Charlotte's Iflands, his people were totally ignorant of that fpoke by the inhabitants to the Eaftward, and which we judged to be the continent : they all appear uncouth and difficult to pronounce j yet though they abound in confonanis, the words have rather a labial and dental, than a guttural pronunciation : however, I fhall fubjoin the nu- merals ufed by the natives of Prince William's Sound, Norfolk Sound, and King George's Sound, which will give thee a better idea \ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. idea of thefe different languages than any defcription of mine can poffibly doi at the fame time let me obferve, that thofe ufed at King George's Sound were furniflied me by a friend whom I met with on, board the Prince of Wales, otherwife thou mightefl wonder at my prefumption in fending thee the language of a place I never faw. One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Prince TViUiani's Sound and Cook's River. Afthlenach Malchnach Pinglulin Staachman Talchman Inglulin } could not be afcertained. Coolin. Norfolk Sound. King George's Sound. Tlaafch Taafch Noofch Tackoon Keichin Ctletufchufh Takatufchufli Noofchatufchufli Koofchufli Chincart. Sorwock Athlac Catfa Moo Soutcha Noclpoo Athlapoo Athlaquell Sarvacquell Higiihoo. Thefe numerals are fpelt as near the mode of pronunciation as I poffibly can, and yet it is not in my power to fpeak them any thmg like the natives. In regard to pronunciation, the inhabi- tants of Cook's River are tlie moil: perfccl: I ever met with or heard of; they will repeat the molt difficult Engllfh words with great eafe, and particularly thofe that begin or end with th, thouMi Euro])ean£ in general are unable to do it. " I have already given thee fome defcription of the canoes in general, and I ihall jufl add, that the ff nail ones in Cook's River are about ei-htecn or iiinetcen feet long, and curved at each end.. il li ibmc 241 1787. Auguft. m t !L;- it' // ■/ ,-lt 242 Aumift. I*. . 1H.J1 A VOYAGE TO THE fomethliig like the neck of a violin ; they are conftru6led of ribs of flciulcr lath, and covered with leal ikins. Their hunting and fifhing implements are faftened with ftraps on the outfide of the canoe, lb as to be laid hold of the moment the hunter fees his prey. The fnigle canoes are rowed with fmall double bladed paddles, and are managed by thcfe people with great dexterity. IBcfidcs the ornaments already mentioned, the Indians are very fond of maiks or vifors, and various kinds of caps, all of which are painted with different devices, fuch as birds, beads, fifhes, ,, and fometimes reprefentations of the human face ; they have likewife many of thcfe devices carved in wood, and fome of them far from being ill executed. Thefe curiofities feem to be greatly valued, and are carefully packed in neat fcjuarc boxes, that tiiey may the more conveniently be carried about. Whenever any large party came to trade, thefe treafures were firrt: produced, and tlie principal perfons dreffed out in all their finery before the fuiging commenced. In addition to this, the Chief (wh.o always conducts tlie vocal concert) puts on a large coat, made of the elk ikin, tanned, romid the lower part of which is one, or fomciimcs two rows of dried berries, or the beaks of birds, which make a rattling noiie whenever he moves. In his hand he has a rattle, or more commonly a contrivance to anfwer the lame eivl, which is of a cir* ular form, about nine inches i:i diameter, x^d made of three fmall fticks bent round at different ililbiiices from each other: great numbers of birds beaks and dried berries arc tiui to this curious inlrrument, which is Ihook by the CJiief with great glee, antl in his opinion makes no fmall addition to North-west coast of America. to the concct. Their fongs generally confift of fcvcral ftanzas, to each oi which is added a chorus. The beginning of each ftanzl IS g.venout by the Chief alone, after which both men antv, the fame as thofc ufed by the New ZeaUindeis. The ingenuity of thefe people is not confined to devices in wood, or diawings on bark ; they manufafture a kind of variegated blanket or cloak, fomething like our horfe cloths ; they do not appear to be wove, but made entirely by hand, and are neatly finiflied : I imagine thefe cloaks are made of wool collc6led from the Ikins of bealls killed in the chace j they are held in great efli- niation, and only wore on extraordinary occafions. Befides the fkin coats and cloaks wore in common, they have large coats purpofely for war, made of the elk Ikin, tanned, and wore double, fometimes threefold. Their weapons are fpears fixed to a pole fix or eight feet long, and a kind of (hort dagger, which is wore in a leather cafe, and tied round the body : to this dagger a leather thong 's faftened, at the end < f which is a hole for the middle finger, the leather is afterwards twifted round the wrift, in order to fix the dagger firm in the hand ; xo that the warrior lofes his weapon only with his life. Food in the winter feafon confifts chiefly of dried fifli, but when tlic time of hunting comes on, they have greater variety, amongft which broiled leal fecms to be reckoned a moft delicious rcpaftj tlicy fometimes ofiered us pieces of it, and on our refufing this daiiUy, always looked at us with a mixture of aftonidiment and contempt. w NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. contempt. In the fpring, or rather fummer. here are variety of herbs which the natives eat with great rclifh j and in Norfolk Sound, we faw the wild lilly root in abundance, lliough thefo poor favages are in their general manners truly in a flatc of un. cultivated barbarifm. yet in one inftancc they can boaft of a re- fincment equal to that of more polite nations, and that is .am,. which IS earned on here to as great a pitch (comparatively fpeak' ing) as at any of our moderate flifliionablc clubs. The only cam ing implements I faw, were fifty-two fmall round bits of vvood' about the fize of your middle finger, and differently marked with red paint. A game is played by two perfons with thefe pieces of wood, and chiefly confifts in placing them in a variety of pofi- tions, but I am unable to defcribe it minutely. The man whom I before mentioned our having on board at Port Mulgrave, loft a knife, a fpear, and feveral toes at this game in lefs than an hour: hough this Jofs was at leaft equal to an Englifla gamefter lofing his eftate, yet the poor fellow bore his ill-fortune with great pa- tience and equanimity of temper. Time is calculated by moons, and remarkable events are re- membered with eafe for one generation, but whether for any lon^rer period IS very doubtful. ^ 245 1787. Augiiih k <». 1:1;' p\ i in I Sea otter fkins are the ftaple commodity in the fur trade the otner varieties we have met with I have before enumerated, and I was informed by Mr. Etches, that King George's Sound produced as many different forts of ikins as Cook's River: I have alfo taken notice of the articles moff acceptable in barter, and fliall only add on that head, that copper is almoft the only article in i-equcft at King George's Sound 3 and though faws are obviouHy of the greatcft u(c to the Indians, yet we found them fo little va- lued. ^1 m i'2 246 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787/ lued, that they would fcarcely take a faw for a feal Ikin j but time Angufi.^ and ulc will no doubt teach them the value both of thefe and other ulcnhls left by us on the coaft. I have now taken notice of every circumftance refpefting thefe people that fell within my immediate obicrvation. I might indeed fpin my letter into a volume, with notions merely conje6lural ; fuch as the origin of thefe people, from what country they firft emigrated, See. &c. but as conje^lures are fomctimes partial, often uncertain, and therefore inconclufive, I am fure thou wilt be pleafcd that I do not trouble thee with any thing of the kind, and wilt perhaps think me fufficiently tedious already~fo that I fliall conclude, with perfed allurances of unalterable cfteem and attachment, thine, Sec. W. B. Dated at Sea, 1 Auguft 15th. 1 LETTER XXXIX. HAVING already given thee every information in my power refpcding the dreary and inhofpitable American coaR, I Ihall return to our proceedings on board. I have already obferv- ed, that we parted with our new friends in the morning of the Qth of Auguft, they fteering for Queen Charlotte's lilands, and \vc fliaplng our courfs for Sandwich Klands, in far better fpirits than NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. H7 hrn when we left the coaft lafl: year. At lo o'clock. Woody ,787. 1 oint bore North by Ea(l 7 leagues diftant , our latitude at noon ^'^ult. was .19 deg. 30 mm. and the longitude 128 dcg. 10 min. Weft. ' ' From this to the 12th. we had a freHi ftcady breeze at North Weft, with moderate weather. Our latitude at noon on the 1 2th. VN.|M4 deg. 22 min. North; and 131 deg. 59 min. Wert longi- From the 12th to the 15th, we had chiefly light variable winds, with calms by turns. Early in the morning of the 16th, a frefh breeze agani iprung up at North North Wert. Our latitude at noon was 41 deg. 41 min. and the longitude by lunar obfervation 131 deg. Wert. ' For fome days part, we had fccn an innumerable c.uantity of curious animal and vegetable fubilances floating on the water, called by lailors, Portugucze men of war ; the bottom part is about two inches long, oval, and of a purple colour; the upper part is quite thm and expanded, nearly in the /liape of a fan. We found the variation of the compafs here 16 dcg. 16 min. Earterly. Our atitude at noon on the 17th, was 40 deg. 8 min. North; and the longitude 133 deg. 26 min. Weft. The wind hauled gradually to the Northward and Eart ward and by the 2irt we migiit be faid to have a regular North Eart trade • our latitude at noon x^as 34 dcg. 28 min. North ; and the longitude by lunar obfervation 136 dcg. 20 min. Wert. The wind'conlinucd preityconrtantat Ncrtli-Eaft, aud the weather in general moderate and hue. 4 On 248 1787. Auguft. A VOYAGE TO THE On the 2d of September, being in 20 deg. 1 min. North lati- tude and 150 deg. 3 min. Weft longitude, we fleered due Weft, m order to make Owhyhee, the principal of the Sandwich Iflands. Our latitude at noon on the 3d was 19 deg. SS m^"- ^orth, and our longitude, being the mean of feveral fets lunar obferva- tlons, 152 deg. 9 min. Weft. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 5th we faw Owhyhee, which borefrom South South Weft to Weft, one-fourth North, aboutfour- tcen leagues diftant ; the latitude at noon was 20 deg. 4 min. and the longitude, by lunar obfervation, 1 54 deg. 41 min. Weft. The breeze growing light, we could not fetch the land by day-light, fo that at fix o'clock we hauled our wind to the Northward, making occafional boards during the night. This paffagc, from the American coaft to Owhyhee, has been by far the moft favourable of any we have experienced during the voyage ; we have performed it in lefs than a month, whereas we ex- peaed to have been at Icaft five weeks : however, we had frefil reafon to admire the goodnefs of Providence, which had been with us during the whole of our voyage, and more particularly in this inftance, for the fcurvy had already made a rapid progrcfs amongft the niip's company, fcarcely a perlbn on board being free from it^ bmcful inftuencc, and feveral of our people rendered incapable of doing their duty, fo that had the paflkge hither been long and tedi(His, it doublcfs would have proved fatal to many of us, not- withftanding every antifcorbutic on board was adminiftered in the moft liberal manner ; but the hope of fpeedily procuring frefti pork and vegetables now infufed new life and vigour into every )C1' fon. I ftiall 1 '' NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 249 I fhall juft obferve here, that our people, while on the coaft, had 1787. faked large quantities of halibut, and always eat it in preference ^^^P'^'"'"-''-- to the fliip's be-f and poik. Whether or no their devouring this '"^^'^ fait fi(h, at no kind of allowance, might accelerate the fcorbutic complaint, I leave to the faculty to determine. But to return. — At feven o'clock in the morning of the 6th we bore away to the Weftward, and feeing a number of canoes commg from the land, we hove to in order to trade with them • the people brought great plenty of fmall hogs and potatoes, and were as fond as ever of iron, though we were afraid that the Im- perial Eagle, and feveral of the Bengal Hiips, touching here, would have been prejudicial to the trade. By ten o'clock a vaft number of canoes were along-fide us, and the Indians traded very eagerly, many of them climbing up the flup's fide for that purpofe, and numbers merely to gratify their curiofity, and look for any thing they could run away with. One of this laft defcription, watching his opportunity whilft all of us were bufily engaged with the traders, fnatched a poker from the Armourer's forge and jumped over board with it. We called to him repeatedly to bring it back, but all in vain, the fellow fwam off with it, and feemed remarkably well pleafed with his acquifition : prefently one of the canoes picked him up, and they paddled away for the fliore. On this our Captain determined to make an example of him, and the more fo, as if he was fuffered to efcape with impunity, we (hould find it impoffible to trade with fuch a multiplicity of people, without being continually fubjeCl to their depredations : on which feveral mufkets were fired at the thief, and we prefently faw that he was very feverely wounded, by his bleeding profufely. After fome time, his comnanions were ner- ^ 1 fuaded fM fi .% 250 1787. September. ,'H '•!i 1' I'll A VOYAGE TO THE fuadcd to bring him along-fide, and we got him on board. The ball had ftruck his under-jaw, and hurt part of the upper-lip. Our Surgeon dreffed the wound in the bed manner he was able, and we fent the poor fellow away j but before he left us, he pe- titioned the Captain for a toe, and received it. The Indians were not in the leaft intimidated by this circum- ftance, but traded with us prefently afterwards, as if nothing had happened. It was not our Captain's intention to anchor at this ifland, but ply off and on occafionally, in order to procure a good fupply of hogs and vegetables, and all the line we could meet with, this part of Owhyhee affording great plenty of fifliing-lines, which we had found, by experience, to be particularly ufeful in making ropes for various purpofes. At noon we faw Mowee, the Eaft end of which bore North 56 deg. Weft, about twelve leagues diftant, and the extremes of Owhyhee, from South 76 deg. Weft to North 30 deg. Eaft, about eight miles diftant from fliore: our latitude was 20 deg. 17 min. North. The weather during the 7 th being moderate, we plied occafi- onally, as beft fuited our conveniency for trading with the people, who kept fupplying us with hogs and vegetables j fo that by the evening we had got an ample fupply of provifions. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 8th, having a frefli Eafterly breeze and fine weather, we ftood along the fliore, for the Wefter- moft point of the iiland, which at noon bore South, about five leagues NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 251 leagues diftant, and our diftance from fhore about four miles : a ,787 number of canoes followed us, but being favoured with a frcfh September, fteady breeze, we foon left them behind. About one o'clock, be- "'"'^ mg well in with the South-Weft point, we hove to, in order to give the people an opportunity of trading for curiofities, our Cap- taui having given them liberty for that purpofe. A vaft number of canoes came along-fide us from this part of the ifland, and we purchaled a good quantity of line for the ftiip's ufc. At three o'clock we made fail, and bore up for Whahoo, that being the place Captain Dixon intended to wood and water at. At fix o'clock the fmall ifland Tahoura, bore North 60 deg. Weft, about 8 leagues diftant. In the evening the breeze freftiening, we double-reefed the topfails and mainfail, and at ten o'clock hauled our wind to the Southward, it not being prudent to run in the night. At five o'clock in the morning of the 9th we wore and made fail; the weather was fine, with a frefti Eafterly breeze, which continued during the for- mer part of the day, but afterwards we had light bailing winds, with calms by turns. At noon, the Weft end of Ranai bore North 10 deg. Weft, about ten miles diftant. During the after- noon we had feveral canoes from Ranai along-fide, which brought us a number of fiftiing-Iines, but little befides : thefe we pur- chafed with fmall toes. At fix o'clock a blufi'-head on the Weft fide of Ranai, much re- fembling Beachy-Head, bore North 6 deg. Eaft, five miles diftant. In the evening we had feveral heavy fqualls, which caufcd us to clofe-reef the topfails, and fingle-reef the mainfail ; but about mid- night the weather grew moderate, and at day-light in the morn- ing of the loth, we fet all fail on feeing Whahoo right a-head. We were favoured with a frefii Eafterly breeze, and by half paft eleven o'clock, being well into the bay we formerly anchored in, I 1 2 vve 1 ; 252 1787. September. m ■ll A VOYAGE TO THE we came to with the beft bower, hi eight and a half fathom water, over a fandy bottom inter fperfed with rocks. The extremes of the bay bore from South 80 deg. Eaft, to South 68 deg. Weft, about two miles diftant from fliore. Our intention was to ftay here no longer than was neceflary to procure wood and water, as we knew from fad experience that it was fcarcely poffible to lay here for any length of time without injuring our cables, not only on account of the foul bottom, but from the heavy fwell conftantly fetting into the bay at South Eaft. There was feveral canoes along-fide, fome of which we fcnt on Ihore for water ; but few of the people brought any, faying that every thing was tabooed. During the afternoon our people were employed in fetting up the rigging fore and aft. Towards the evening our vifitants were pretty numerous, but they confifted chiefly of females who came along-fide, expefting to get hulbands for the night, fo that though we at prefent were reftria:ed from neceflary articles, yet thofe who were difpofed to folace themfelves with the chearful Whahoo dam- fels, had no reafon to repine. In the morning of the nth our old friend the Prieft, with his ufual attendants, paid us a vifit. From him we learnt that the King propofcd paying us a vifit, be- fore the natives were allowed to furnifli us with water or provifions. Accordingly, about noon Teereteere came on board, attended by a number of Chiefs, and his nephew Myaro, whofe fliape and figure I had fo greatly admired when laft at this place. He was grown rather ftouter than when I faw him laft, but his fl^in was covered in feveral nlaces with a kind oF white fcurf, v\ ch at firft I ima- gined NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 253 gined to be the effca of his drinking ava. On afking him about 1787. it, he told me that it was a breaking out very common amongft ^'^v^'"'^^^- them ; and (o far from being occafioned by drinking ava, that it was a crime for lo young a perfon as himfelf to touch it. The King brought a fine hog and fome cocoa-nuts as a prefent : but It was evident that he meant to regulate his condud towards us by the reception we gave him, and that we miglit exped our wants fupplied in proportion as he approved of our prefents : he enquired repeatedly after Captain Portlock, and appeared very anxi- ous to fee him. Myaro, and feveral of the Chiefs afked after Pia- pia, and feemed well pleafed to hear of his being at Atoui. After Teereteere had fatisfied his curiofity, and Captain Dixon ^ made him a prefent of fome toes and other trifling articles, he went on fhorej and we prefently found the good effeds of our bounty, great numbers of the natives flocking to us with water» fo that by fun-fet we had filled fourteen butts. By day-light in the morning of the 1 2th, we were furrounded by canoes full of watei", fo that tlie remainder of our empty cafks were prefently filled, and many of the poor Indians emptied their gourds- into the fea, when they found we had no occafion for any more. Our next objeft was to procure wood, which our friends no fooner . knew than they paddled away for the fhore, an-' B' %w ^^ i% 256 A VOYAGE TO THE iji ,787. Towards eleven o'clock, being nearly abreaft Whififte B^ry, the Scptcn.hcr. j.-j^j,.^ reildonce, he left us, with nwny profefiions of fnend- "^■^ IhilC frequently repeating the word prolui ; or, I wiih you a good voyage and a fair wind. In the afternoon, and daring the night, we had light variable winds, the weather clofe and.fulrry. In the morning of the 14th, - a moderate breeze fprung up at N. N. E. At noon, the South Weft point of Whahoo bore South 75 ^legrees Eaft ; and the North Weft point North 83 degrees Eaft, about eight leagues diftant. During the afternoon and night, we had light baffling winds, with intervening calms. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 15th, we faw King's Mount, Atoui, which bore North Weft Weft' half Weft, nine leagues diftant. At noon we had a lig Eafterly breeze and clear weather. The meridian altitude gav 21 dcg. 43 min. North latitude. At fix in the afternoon, the ex- tremes of Atoui bore from North 20 dcg. Weft, to South 85 deg. Weft} diftant from fliore four or five leagues. The evening being cloudy and dark, at feven o'clock we hauled by the wind to the Southward, and tacked occafionally during the night. At five in the morning of the i6th, we bore up and made fail, with a light Eafterly breeze. By nine o'clock we were within two miles of the Eaft fide of Atoui. A number of the natives prefently came along-fule, bringing us potatoes and taro, which we purchafed for nails. Our latitude at noon was 21 deg. 52 min. North. We kept ftanding along fliore for Wymoa Bay j but the wind being light and variable, it was doubtful whether we ftiould be able to di'ca our purpofe. Great numbers of canoes now came along-fidc the veliel; and many of the people were rejoiced to fee us NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 257 1^ tis again : numbers of them alkcd after Po Pote, and feemcd concerned i -S 7. that ae was not m our company. On our aiking after Abbenooc t!!!!!!: and his fon Tyheira, the people told us they were both at Oneehow. About five o'clock, our old friend Long-Hianks came on board : he was fo rejoiced to fee his former acquaintance, that tears ran clown his cheeks, and it was fome time before he became perfeaiv calm and colleftcd. From him we learned that Abbenooe was on Ihore at Attoui, and not at Oneehow, as wc had been informed. The little breeze wc had during the afternoon dying away, at fix o clock we came to with the fmall bower, in nineteen fathom water, over a fandy bottom, about two miles to the Eaflward of our former fituation. *i-i'' )cr. Soon after this Tyheira came on board, and (on our aiking after Abbenooe) began to tell us a very lamentable ftory, the purport of which was, that fince we left Atoui, a Ihip had been there • that the Captain ufed the inhabitants very ill, and even killed fe- veral of them ; that on this account his father duril not come to us, not knowing our velfel at fo great a diftance. Captain Dixon told him, that no trade whatever Ihould be carried on until Ab benooe had been on board j on which Tyheira immediately fent a canoe to fetch his fother, and at the fame time hoilled a fignal to I^ him know that he might come fafely. This had the delired eftecT:, form lefs than half an hour we had the pleafure of fecin- our good friend Abbenooc on board, and he was no Icfs pleafed to fee his old acquaintance again 3 but feemcd forry that Captain Portlock (or Po Pote, as he called him) was not with us. From what Tyheira had told us refpeaing the flrange vellel, we were inclined to think that it was Captain Mcaic. who had quarrelled ^"^ ^ with m^' ■''' ' m 258 1787. September. A VOYAGE TO THE with the natives, efpecially as our Captain had recommended him to touch at Atoui in preference to any of the iflands. On our alking Abbenooe about this circumftance, he informed us that the- Nootka had left Atoui twenty days, and that the Captain was enou, or a bad man, and had not given any prefent whatever, though he had been plentifully fupplied with every refrelhment the ifland afforded. Our Captain's intention was not to flay here any longer than- was neceffary to procure a good fupply of hogs, and as many ve- getables as would ferve the fliip's company whilft they kept good, and indeed this feemed likely to detain us but a very (hort time,, for early in the morning of the 17th we were furrounded with canoes, filled with taro, potatoes, cocoa-nuts, and fugar-caner many of them had fine large hogs, particularly Abbenooe, Tyhei-,||^ ra, Long-fhanks, and old Toe-Toe, the Chief who ufed formerly to' fupply us fo plentifully with taro. We prefently purchafed more hogs than we could conveniently carry away alive : on this, our Captain ordered the people to kill and fait as many for fea- ftore as were fufficient to fill two puncheons. Early in the morning of the 18th our decks were crouded with vifitors ; for, although it had been our conftant cuftom when at thefe iflands before, to admit very few people on board, yet at this time it could fcarcely be avoided, efpecially as Captain Portlock was abfent, and we were willing to fhew every attention in our power to all thofe who had rendered any little fervices to either veffel. Amongft the refV of our new guefls, Tyhcira introduced his Wife and two little boys : the eldeft is a (liarp little fellow, about four NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2^9 four years old ; the younger, ftill in his mother's arms. She is a 1787. very pi-etty modeft looking woman, and feems to regard her chil- ^^"!^' dren with a fondnefs truly maternal : Tyheira, by way of paying a compliment to our Captain, has named his eldeft boy Po Pote, after Capt. Portlock, and the younger JD/V/tw/^, after Capt. Dixon! ^ Abbenooe informed us, that the King propofed coming on board in the courfe of the forenoon, and about ten o'clock Tiara made his appearance in a large double canoe, accompanied by anoAier m winch were his daughter and two nieces. The attendants on thefe great perfons were very numerous, and joined in a heeva, or fong, on their coming on board, fuperior to any thing of the knid I ever heard at thefe iflands. i''t The kmg was greatly pleafed to fee us again, and enquired particularly after Po Pote. On being told that we fliould ftay no longer than to procure a fupply of provifions, he feemed folicitous to accommodate us with every thing the illand afforded, and in- deed all the Chiefs vied with each other in fpeedily fupplying our various wants ; even intereft feemed to be forgot in the good na- tured buftle of kind and friendly offices. Amongft the many inftances of kindnefs and good natured at- tention we met with at this time from the Chiefs in general, I cannot omit mentioning an aflion of Long-Hianks, as it does him the greateft honour, and would reHea credit even on a peribn of education and refined fenfibility. I.ong-flianks had been often on board when we were lafl: at Atoui, and by that means was perfonally acquahited with all our people= Being naturally curious and inquifitlve, he now K k 2 took V. it, '(I !t P i!'.; 26o 1787. September, A VOYAGE TO THE took an opportunity of going amongft them to afk a number of queftions about the voyage. On going down between decks, he met with the Carpenter, who had been troubled with a lingering; diforder for a conliderable time, and at prefent was very weak and poorly. His pale countenance and emaciated figure afte£\ed poor Long-flianks very fenfibly ; a tear of pity ftole unheeded down his cheek, and he began to enquire about his complaint in a tone of tendernefs and compafllon : feeing him very weak and infirm, he gently chafed and preffed the finews and mufcles of his legs and thighs, and gave him all the confolation in his power. Prefently aftcrwai^ds he came upon deck, called his canoe, and went on fliore in a hurry, without taking leave of any perfon on the quarter- deck, which was contrary to his ufiial cuftom ; but he returned very fhortly, bringing a fine fowl along with him, which he imme- diately carried down to the Carpenter, told him to have it dreffed diredly, and he hoped it would make him better in a day or two». This circumftance fhews, that thefe people are far from being deftitute of the fine feelings of human nature, and at the fame time may lead one to imagine that difeafes are not very uncom- mon amongft them. About noon a frefii breeze fpringing up from the Northward,, Ca})tain Dixon wifhed to embrace this opportunity of weighing, anchor; but on looking over our ftock of vegetables, it was judged neceflary to procure a further fupply, as we not only wanted theui for the (hip's ufe, but alfo to feed the hogs, of which wc had near eighty on board, large and fmall. No fuoner was the king informed of what we wanted, than he immediately went on lliore, together with Abbenooe, Toe-Toe, Tyheira, and Lon^'-flianks, all of them prom.ifing to com.e back very foon with. arou NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. z6i arou arm, or great plenty of tare. In the mean time we un- ,787 moored, and got every thing ready for fea. September. About three o'clock the King and Chiefs returned, each bringing a large double canoe loaded with taro and fugar-cane, fo that we were now completely furnifhed with every neceffary article the illand afforded. The expedition and difpatch with which we got this laft taro and then- free and generous manner in bringing it on board, both furprized and pleafed us ; and our Captain was not flow in makmg fuitable returns. To the King he gave 2.pahou, a large baize cloak edged with ribbon, and a very large toe, which pleafed him fo much, that he began to think himfelf the greateft monarch S m the univerfe. The other Chiefs were rewarded with toes, axe3 and faws, entnely to their fatisfadion. The ladies, too .of whom we had no fmall number of confiderable rank on board) were liberally ornamented with buttons and beads. \n fliort all parties were perfeftly pleafed, and were profufe in tlieir profeffions of kindnefs and acknowledgment. Before we finally leave thefc iflands, thou, perhaps, wilt expe6> a kind of lupplementary account in addition to what I have occa- fionally faid refpefting them and their inhabitants. What hvr remarks I am able to make,, are now very much at thy fervice. Thefe iflands were difcovered by the late Captain Cook, during his laft voyage to the Pacific Ocean. He named them Sandwich Iflands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, his particular patron and who at that time prefided at the Admiralty Board. This 4 ' •» 1 1 I i-' ,« f. fi '\ -2j62 A VOYAGE TO THE 1t iiSili 1787. This dlfcoveiy, fufficient alone to render his name immoitafi* September. ^^^^ j^g ^^j^^ ^^ ^^yg brought him to an untimely end, as he loft his life at Owhyhee, in confequence of a dil'pute with the natives. *They are fituated from 18 deg. 54 min. to 22 deg. 15 mi». North latitude; and from 154 deg. 56 min. to 160 deg. 24 min. "Weft longitude, and are eleven in number; viz. Ovvhyhee, Mowee, Ranai, Morokinne, Tahoaroa, Moretoi, Whahoo, Atoui» Onechoura, Nehovi', or Oneehow, and Tahoara. The particular extent of each ifland I cannot give thee, as thou mayclt know from the tenor of my former letters that our acquaintance with the major part of them is very fuperficial : on this head 1 ihall juft obferve, that Ovvhyhee is the fartheft to the Southward and Eaftward, the fouth point being in 18 deg. 54 min. North lati- tude; and the Eaftermoft part 154 deg. 56 min. Weft longitude. The reft trer.d in a diredion nearly Nortii Weft, and in the order already mentioned; the North point of Atoui being 22 deg. 15 min. North latitude ; and the Weft part of Tahoura in 160 deg. ^4 rain. Weft longitude. Mowee is fituated next to Owhyhee, and appears to be about twenty miles long. According to Captain Cook's account there is a tine bay to the Eaft fide of this illand, which we propofed making in November laft, but were prevented by contrary winds, Tahoaroa and Morokinne are fituated betwixt Mowee and Ranai j they are mere garden fputs, and I cannot fay whether they are inhabited. Ranai is confiderably fmaller than Mowee; its pro- duce i s much the fame with that of the iflands in general. Mo- 2 retoi • See a chart of the iflan('. in Cook's laft Voyage to tlie Pacific Ocean, vol. iii. m NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA., a^j rctoi is the next to the Northward and Weftward : its extent ap- ,787 pears mucli the fame as Mowee. Septcnber. Whahoo I am inclined to think is next to Owhyhee in point of- extent, it bemg more than thirty miles long, and at lead twenty miles over in the broadeft part. The latitude of the bay in whiclr we anchored is 21 deg. 15 min. North. Atoui is rather more than a degree to the North Weft of Wha- hoo ; it is about thirty miles long, and fifteen miles over in the broadeft part. Oneehoura is very fmall, and is fituated between Atom and Oneehow ; its ciiief produce is yams. Oneehow is confiderably larger, being about ten miles over. Tahoura is the Weftermoft illand of the^roupe, and I believe is uninhabited, . Thefe iHands in general are mountainous, and fome of them remarkably fo. Captain King * eftimates Monakaah and Monaroa, two mountains of Owhyhee, to be confiderably higher than the famous Picque of Teneriffe and the high land on Mowee feems httle infeiior in height to either of them. I have before obferved that the fummits of the two former are perpetually covered witli fnow, and yet the numerous and well cultivated plantations round their bafe, and the exuberant foilage of the trees with which their fides are covered, totally deftroy every idea of Winter. Nor is. the profpea of the iOands in general lefs variegated or pleafmg; the country next the fea is generally crouded with villages, which are (haded from the fcorching heat of the fun by the fpreading branches of the cocoa, palm, clove, pepper, mulberry tree, &c. v As your eye advances fartlier into the Cjjuntry, numerous plan- tations. .-i ♦ Sec Cook's laft Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, vol. iii. p. 104. In 264 A VOYAGE TO THE ,787. tatlons, laid out in the moft regular manner, engage your attention, September. .^-^ ^|^e landfcapC is finally clofcd by the mountahis, which arc cloathed to the very fummitwith all the verdure of evcrlafting Ipring. Though thefe Iflands are fituated within the tropics, yet experience has Ihewn us that trade winds arc far from being conftant here, particularly to the Weft ward of Whahoo : the weather too is frequently unfettlcd ; and another very great inconvenience at- tending thefe iflands, is the want of a good harbour ; though in the fummer months I doubt not but vellels may lay either in Karakakoa Bay, Owhyhee ; or Wy moa Bay, Atoui, with great fafety. I imagine the climate is much the fame as that of tropical iHands in general. The mean of the^thermometer during our ftay here was 80 degrees. Owhyhee is by far the moft plentiful ifland of the whole ; we may indeed alTign as one reafon for this, that it is larger than any two of the reft, but then its inhabitants are equally numerous in proportion to its extent, and I am inclined to think they are much more fo, confequently the land is more univerfally cultivated than at any of the other iftands, which at once accounts for the great plenty of vegetables, 6cc. met with here. In my next thou wilt have what few remaining particulars I can furnilli thee with refpefting thefe iftands ; and thou mayeft depend on their being fuch as have fallen within my immediate obfervation. Adieu. Thine, &c. W. B. Atou beptembcr •jiitli. i LETTER NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 265 c '787- September. m LETTER XLT. rr^HE circumftance which renders Owhyhee peculiarly eligible A. to touch at, is the great number of fine hogs it affords • fowls too are in great plenty here. In regard to vegetables, bread- fruit, potatoes, and plantains, are the moft plentiful ; taro is more fcarce, and rather indifferent, and there are very few yams to be met with. • Atoui is certainly the fecond ifland for refrefliments, and is in fome refpedls fuperior to Owhyhee : it produces many fine hoes the greateft abundance of excellent taro, together with potatoes and plantams. Cocoa-nuts are met with here in greater abun- dance than, perhaps, at all the other iflands together 3 and there IS plenty of fine fait, which is peculiarly ufeful in curing pork for fea-ftore : add to this, plenty of excellent water is eafily procured and at leaft a temporary fupply of wood. The Chiefs are eafily attached to your intereft, and by that means every bufinefs is car- ried on with the greateft order and regularity. Whahoo, though greatly inferior to either of the iflands juft mentioned in regard to hogs or vegetables, yet it confeffedly claims a firft place for fupplying thofe moft neceffary articles, wood and water; and I have reafon to think that in a few years it will equal Atoui in point of fertility. A fpirit of improvement fecms to animate the people to a very great degree ; and it is really afto- ^ 1 nifliing 1^^ ,,.■ ■Mf itr |ji ■' 266 A VOYAGE TO THE « 1787. iiilhing to fee the different afpect many parts of the iflancl now September, ^^q^^. jq ^j^^t ji^gy ^[^\ the firft time we anchored there. The bay we lay in, and Whititte bay in particular, are crouded with new plantations, laid out in the mofl: regular order, and which feem to be in a very flourifliing ftate of cuhivation. Oncchow is remarkable for the great quantity of excellent yams it produces ; there is alfo a fwect root called tee, or tea, found here : it is generally about the thicknefs of a perfon's wrift, but fometimes much larger, and is generally baked by the natives pre- vious to their bringing it for barter. This root is of a wet, clammy nature, and with proper management makes excellent beer.— The other iflands in general produce a few hogs, together with potatoes, bread-fruit, taro, plantains, and fait ; which laft article renders thefe iilands fuperior to Otaheite, or any of the beautiful iflands in the Southern Pacific Ocean, none of them producing any of this very ufeful article^ Hogs and dogs are the only quadrupeds we faw here. The dogs appear to be of the cur kind, dull and heavy j they have fliarp pointed ears projedling towards the nofe. Bi ds are not in any great variety here : the humming-bird al- ready mentioned, are by far the moft numerous, and of which there are two fpecies ; viz. the red-bird before defcribed, and another, the breafl: of a pale green, the back and wings of a light brown. There are alfo ducks, terns, owls, &;c. Great numbers of the tropic bird and man of war bird breed at Tahoura, (which is uninhabited) and are frcquenly caught there by the natives. The fifli mofl frequently met with here are dolphins, cavallies, fliarks, &c. Sharks are much efteemed, probably on account of tlieir %:: NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2^7 their teeth, and the food they afford to tlie Invtoivs or menial 1787. fervants, who are reftraincd from eating tlie better kinds of fifli. ^•^Pf'^"'^^^'"- The wood at thefe iflands is very plentiful on the moinitains, and of various kinds ; but the principal arc chiefly two, one re- fembling mahogany, the other ebony. What number of inhabitants thefe iflands contain, is impofllblc for me to fay with any degree of certainty. Captain King com- putes them at four hundred thoufand, but, with all deference to fuch refpedable authority, I cannot help thinking this account greatly exaggerated, and indeed this is pretty evident from fimilar paffages in the fame voyage. Captain Cook, when at Atoui in the beginning of the voyage, eftimates that ifland to contain thirty thoufand inhabitants, and this from a fuppofition that there are fixty villages on the ifland, each containing five hun- dred people. This calculation is certainly in the extreme, but Captain King makes it ftill greater, and concludes Atoui to con- tain fifty-four thoufand inhabitants, which is furely too many by at leafl: one half. If therefore we dedu6l from the remainder of his calculations in the fame proportion, and reckon the whole number of inhabitants at two hundred thoufand, I am ]icrfuaded it will be much nearer the truth than Captain King's calculation, which feems to be founded on opinion merely fpeculative, rather than the refult of dole obfervation. Thefe people in their temper and difpofition are harmlefs, in- offenfive, and friendly j not fubjed to paffion, or eafily provoked ; in their manners they are lively and chearful, ever ready to ren- der any little fervice in their power even to ftrangers, and pur- fue every thing they undertake witli unremitting- dilio-cnce and an- 00 X if P. !' . ! w LI plication. 'Ft iia 268 1787. September. A VOYAGE TO THE plication. When attached to any perfon, they are fteady in their friendfliip, and are not eafily tempted to negleft the intereft of thofe for whom they have once profefTed a regard. In oppofi- tion to thefe good qualities, it muft be confefled that they are guilty of theft, and will not fcruple to plunder whenever they have an opportunity; but this is moft frequently pradlifed by the Toivtows ; and from the imperfedl knowledge we have of their cuftoms, it is impoffible to fay how far theft is reckoned a crime. Yet with all this propenfxty to thieving, we never met with an inftance of difhonefty whenever any thing was committed to their cliargc, however valuable it might be to them. Their language is foft, fmooth, and abounds with vowels. In their conversation with each other it appears very copious, and they fpeak with great volubility ; but when converfmg with us, they only make ufe of thofe words which are moft expreffive and fignificant, purpofely omitting the many articles and conjunftions made ufe of when fpeaking to each other. But as a fpecimen will give thee a much better idea of the language than any de- fcription can poflibly do, I (hall here fubjoin a vocabulary of words which I colle6led the meaning of during our ftay here. Tanie, a hujband. Whaheene, a ivife or ivoman. Madooa tanie, father. Madooa whaheene, mother. Titu nanie, brother. Titu whaheene, Jijicr. I'itu, child. Myre, a king. Ai'ee, u chief. Towtow '\ a Jlave or menial fervant. Tata, a man or Mr. Boa, a hog. Manu, a fowl. Ei ha, fijh in general, Wharra, fx^tatoes. Neehu, cocoa nuts. vy, NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Vy, water. Taro, a large root fo called. Poe, taro pudding. Maia, plantains. Mano, a fiark. Patai, fait. Oofe, or ooughe, yams. Malama, ihe fun. Maheina, the moon, Booboo, a button. Poreema, \ ^ ^^^^^^ of buttons Abbobo, to-morrow. ' \ on a flrinr. Heeva. a Consr in rhnr 269 r a piece of cloth wore by ^ 787- Ahou, j the women round the ^'P'""^""' (. waifi. Enou, bad. Myty, goood, pretty, fine, right. Areea, prefently, by and bye. Pe emy, come here, bring it here. Mere m^VQ^fhew me. Arre, get away, march off. . Areuta, on fhore. on a firing. Hou, a nail. Mattou, afifh-hook. Araia, a feather necklace. Taheidy, a fan or fly-flap Pahou, a fpear. Tooheihe, wood. Ava, an intoxicating root. Matano, a prefent. Avaha, a canoe. Toa, a paddle. Tibo, a gourd or calabafh. Hi dirroj go below. Tabahou, a pail or bucket. Taboo, an interdidtion. Touro, ropt or line of any kind. Heeva, afong in chorus.. Ete, fmall. Nooe, large. Oe, you. Moe, tofleep. Porore, hungry. VoonmnQ,fick. Meme, to make water. Tooti, to eafe nature. Hone hone, to falute. Paha, may be, perhaps. . Arou arou, great plenty. Emotoo, old, broke, much wore. Matte matte, dead, to kill. Oiire, a denial of any kind. Owhytoenoa, what is your name. {a /lone in the jl:ape of Poota poota, a hole, an ad^^ a fat piece ^^^^^ ^ U liar or deceit/^, Marow, cioth wore by the men. Tihi, one. ^ Earna, Toe, 1 7.-JQ Earna, tivo. I Tall, four. Areema, jive. Ahonoj fix. A VOYAGE TOTHE Aheto, feven. Ahanou, eight. Heeva, nine. Hoome, ten. In writing thefe words, I have fpelt them as near the pronun- ciation as l^poflibly could; and yet it is probable many of them might ftrike the ear of another perfon very differently. The fame may be faid in regard to the names of their Chiefs. I (hall juft ob'ferve, that where the accent falls on the letter a, it is generally pronounced broad. Thefe people in general are about the middle fize, rather flen- der, their limbs ftraight and well proportioned. Some of the Arees are inclined to corpulency, particularly the Aree women, and their ikin is fmoother and fofter than thofe of the common rank, but this is owing to want of exercife, and an unlimited in- dulgence in the article of food. They are in general of a nut co- lour, though fome of the women are fairer, and their hands and fingers are remarkably fmall and delicate. Both fexes go naked, except about the waift. The men wear a . narrow piece of cloth, called a marow, barely fufficient to cover the adjacent parts : the ahou, or women's drefs, is much larger, and generally reaches from the waift to the middle of the thigh. The beards of the men are fuffered to grow ; their hair is cut clofe on each fide the head, but grows long from the forehead to the back of the neck, fomewhat refembling a helmet. The wo- clofe behind, and on the top of the head j jncn cjuite the NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. the front is turned up like the toupee of an Englifli beau, and is frequently daubed with cocoa-nut oil, and lime made from fliells, which often gives it a fandy difagreeable colour. Sometimes, by way of ornament, they wear a wreath of flowers fancifully dif- pofed about the head ; inftead of a bracelet, a fliell is tied round the wrift, and a fondnefs for this ornament has rendered buttons fo much efteemed by thefe gay damfels in general j the neck, too IS adorned with various forts of fhells, faftened on firings 'after the manner of a necklace. But the moft beautiful ornament wore by the women is a necklace or araia, made from the varie- gated feathers of the humming-bird, which are fixed on Ihings fo regular and even, as to have a furface equally fmooth as velvet • and the rich colours^ the feathers gives it an appearance equally rich and elegant., ^ The caps and cloaks wore by the men are ftill fuperior in beauty and elegance. The cloaks are in general about the fize of thofe wore by the Spaniards ; the ground is net-work, and the feathers are fewed on in alternate fquares, or triangular forms of red and yellow, which have a molt brilliant appearance. Tlie gi-ound of tlie caps is wicker-work, in the form of a hehnet ; the elevated part from the forehead to the hind part of the neck, is about a hand's breadth, and generally covered with yellow fea- thers, the fides of the cap with red. This cap, together with the cloak, has an appearance equally fplendid, if not fuperior to any icarlet and gold whatever.. Thefe truly elegant ornaments are fcarce, and only pofll^fl'ed by Chiefs of the higheft rank, who wear them on extraordinary oc- cafions. There are cloaks of an inferior kind, which have only a narrow 271 . ^787. beptembc. 1*. ■ Ni 2/2 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. a narrow border of red and yellow feathers, the reft being covered Sq)te,nber. ^.^^^ feathers of the tropic and man of war bird. Nor are thefe caps and cloaks, though confefTedly elegant in a fuperior degree, the only proofs of invention and ingenuity fhewn by thefe people in matters of ornament. Their mats ar§ made with a degree of neatnefs equal to any of European manufafture, and prettily diverfified with a variety of figures ftained with red. Thofe ufed to fleep on are plain, and of a coarfer kind, but made with an equal degree of neatnefs and regularity. Cloth is another article which gives thefe Indians equal fcope for fancy and invention. It is made fromf|| Chinefe paper mul- berry-tree, and when wet, (being of a foft, malleable fubftance) is beat out with fmall fquare pieces of wood, to from twelve to eighteen inches wide, and afterwards damped with various colours and a diverfity of patterns, the neatnefs and elegance of which would not difgrace the window of a London linen-draper. How this cloth is ftamped I never could learn ; the different co- lours are extrafted from vegetables found in the woods. There is another kind of cloth much finer than the above, and beat out to a greater extent : it is of a white colour, and frequently wore by the Aree women, in addition to the ahou. Fans and fly-flaps are ufcd by both fexes. The fans are ufually made of the cocoa-nut fibres, neatly wove j the mounting is of a fquare form, and the handle frequently de- corated with hair. The fly-flaps are very curious ; the handles are decorated with alternate pieces of wood and bone, which at a diftance m ■ north-west coast of AMERICA. 273 diftance has the appearance of finiered work; the upper part or ,78, flap IS the feathers of tha man -f war bird. September. Fifli-hoob are made of the pearl oyfter-fliell, .and fo contrived as to ferve for both hook and bait. Thofe intended for fliarks are confiderably larger, and made of wood. Befides the variety of fifliing-lines ah'eady mentioned, they have various other kinds of cordage, and made of different ma- terials. The worft forts were found ufeful in rounding our cables ; that of a better kind was appropriated to other purpofes • and the fifliing-lines made excellent tackle-falls, top-gallant haul- yards, &c. I have alg|y taken notice of the bafkets we faw at Owhyhee : at the falFplace we faw fome fquare pillows, made nearly of the fame materials as the mats, and which I am informed referable thofe ufed in China. mi t' U ,a' Nets are made here with great ingenuity, and very large; I cannot inform thee what ufe they make of them, but they cer- tainly are not altogether for ornament. The form of their gourds or calabafhes is fo very various, that they certainly make ufe of art to give them different fli'apes. Some are of a globular form, with a long narrow neck, like a bottle ; others are tall and circular, but of equal width from top to bottom. Otiiers again, though narrower towards the mouth, yet are fufficiently wide to admit the hand : many of thefe are very prettily ftained in undulated lines, which at a diftance ap- pear like paint. v-\\ M m vV iiai 274 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. What little account I can give thee of their plantations thou Seiitca-.ber. j^^^ already had, and I had no opportunity of feeing any other cultivation than taro j but every thing elfe, I doubt not, is ma- naged with equal care and attention. Their houfes greatly refcmble an hay-ftack in fliape, and are neatly thatched with flags, or ruflies ; the door place is fo very low that you are almoft obliged to enter on all fours. They have no better contrivance for a door than a few temporary boards. The iiilKle of their dwellings arc kept neat and clean j a coarfe mat is fpread on the floor ; and as they have no feparate apartments, tliat part of the room appropriated for repofe is rather elevated, and covered with mats of a finer fort. The ||||h|^oM utenfils are placed on a wooden bench, and confifl: of gRfrds, and wooden bowls and dirties, which in general conftitute the whole of their furniture. Thofe who are poflefled of hogs or fowls, keep them in fmall out-houles appropriated for that purpofe. The method univerfally praflifed to drefs their victuals is baking, which is done in the following maner : a hole is dug in tlie ground fulHciently deep to anfwcr the purpofe of an oven, at the bottom of which a number of hot fl:ones are laid j thefe being C(;vered with leaves, whatever they want dreflcd is laid on them y more leaves are now laid on, and another layer of hot flones being; added, the oven is covered. If a hog is baked, the belly is always filled with hot llones. Cuft^om has rendered this mode of drelling vi6luals fo very familiar, that they can tell the exadt: time when any thing is fufficicntly done ; and I mufl: own that in baking tara or yams, they far excelled our people : ihcy alfo drefs the young tops of taro i'o as to be an excellent fubftitute for greens, thougli we never could boil them fo as to eat palatably. The ■i. NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,7^ The better forts of food, fuch as hogs and fowls, are confined ,787. entirely to the ^rees; but baked dog is reckoned a peculiar de- September, licacy. ' ' The Towtows, and the women in general, live on fifli and vegetables. A kind of pudding made of taro conftitutes a principal part of their food. The Mi moft efteemed is dolphin, and they have an excellent method of curing them, fo as to keep good for any length of time. Wh> the women Hiould be tabooed from fleHi I never could learn ; but it cannot furely proceed from fcarci. ty ; and the Aree women are fomctimes indulged with it. The knived teeth, and fo , 276 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787. paddle, always fit in the body of the canoe. Their paddles are S q)icmlKT. jjjjjj^^^j. ly^jj. ^^^. ^yj. f^>ct long, and greatly refenible a baker's pail. Thcfc people arc very dexterous in catching fiflt, two inftances of which I had an opportunity of feeing. One day, when a number of Indians were along-fide the vellel, one of our people, who was fifliing with a fmall hook and line, had his bait taken by a large filh ; being unwilling to lofe his line (which being a Sandwich Ifland one, was regarded as acuriofif}) he veered it away, but was afraid to haul it again ; on this an Indian requefted to have the management of it, which being granted, he played the filh with cafe, and in a lliort time got it fafe into l]i^j||^ It proved to be a large cavallie, and weighed one ^''^^^HHl^''^^^ - -^'^other time, a large ihark laid hold of a fmall line^nchvvas immediately given to an Indian who happened to be along-lide ; he played the fhark for at Icall two miles, without hurting the line, and he only got away at lall by drawing the hook llraight as wire. Another fpecies of ingenuity met with amongft: thefe people is carving : they have a number of wooden images reprefenting human figures, which they erteem as their gods ; but I greatly doubt whether religion is held in any great elHmation amongil them, for I could purchafe every god amongft the illands for a few toes. Sometimes their ava diihes are fupported by three of thefc little wooden images, and this I reckon a mafter-piece in their carving. The bowls and diihes are made of a kind of wood re- fembling ebony, and arc finilhed with a proportion and polilh equal, if not fuperior, to any thing made by our turners: The inhabitants of thefe illands appear fubie*!^: to very few difeafes; and thougluhcydoubtlcfs have been injured by their connc'5lion with I Euro- |.'«! north-west coast of AMERICA. 277 Europeans, yet fo fimplc is their manner of living, that they pay lit- 1787. tic regard to this circumlhmce, and feem to think it an affair of ^^'■;i^'f^>; no conlcquence. I am inclined to think that moft of their diforders proceed from an immoderate ufc of ava ; it weakens the eyes, covers the body with a kind of leprofy, debilitates and emaciates the whole frame, makes the body paralytic, haftens old age, and no doubt brines €?n deatli itfelf. , ^ The taboo I have before taken notice of: this is generally laid on by the prieftgj|j^metimes by a perfon appointed particularly for that purpoOSI^ called Tcmifa (or the taboo) man. When any particular fpot of ground is tabooed, the wands ufed in marking the bounds refcmble our gun-rods, and are tipped with a tuft of dog's hair. The heevas, or fongs, cannot be defcrlbcd by notes, as they rather refemble a quick energetic mannnet; of fpeaking, than fnigmg J and the performers feem to pay more attention to the motions of the body than the modulations of the voice. The women are the moft frequent performers in this kind of merri- ment; tht7 begin their performance flow and regular, but by degrees it grows brilkcr and more animated, 'till it terminates in convuHions of lauditer. V j ■'■■'* . ■ if'; 'i 'l\ I j I i^ i It is very evident that thefe people have not the leaft idea of melody, as the tones and modulation in all their fongs are in- variably the fame ; however, there fccms to be fomc degree of invention (I had almoft Iliid poetry) in the compofition of the words, whicli are often on temporary fubjefts ; and the frequent peals zyS A VOYAGE TO THE ■ ■-^1 T787. peals of laughter are no doubt excited by fome witty allufion or Scrtcmber. ^^j^^^. ^^j^taiucd ill them. The warlike implements in ufe among thefe people ai*e fpears, flings, and bows and arrows. The fpears are made of a kind of mahogany, alDout fix feet long ; one end is barbed, the other tapered nearly to a point : they throw them at each other, and thofe that are expert oft-times wound their adverfary at a confiderablc diftance. The flings too are ufed with equal dexterity and eftect. The bows and arrows are made of reeds, and fo flender, that I can|^ think they aie of any great ufe , however, as I had no onlHpy of feeing their engagements, I can fay little on that h™ ; what information I got being collected from the imperfed accounts of the natives. They have- drums which are beat by way of addition to their heevas ; thcfe are about twelve or fixteen inches high ; feveral holes are cut in the fides, and a hog's flcin is ftrained over one end, but they prcduce but a very heavy dull found. The bodies of both fexes are tatooed ; but this cuftom is more generally practifed by the men, whofe bodies are frequently punc- tured in a very curious manner. Whether or no .this ferves as any diiVmgui(hing mark, or is done merely for ornament, I never could learn. The method of fainting here is by joining nofes together, and is looked on as a certain token and aflui"ance of friendlliip. Both foxes are exceeding expert in fwimming ; and what is very remarkable, are not the leafl intirnidatal at the fight of a lliark 2 when 279 NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. when in the water. I have frequently fecn Indians jump out of 178,. their canoes and fnatch hogs entrails, which have been thrown ''^^J^^'^bcr. overboard by our people, at the very moment when a Ihark has been endeavouring to fcize them. That thefc people have fomc idea of a Supreme Being, or rather of a multiplicity of behigs, fuperior to themfclves, there is not the leaft doubt. The bulinefs of their priefts is ciiiefly to fuper- mtend and regulate the worfhip to their gods ; to direft the cere- monies at their funerals, and probably to repeat orations or prayers upon thefe occafions : but the very fliort time any of us wei- on fliore, gave us no opoortunities of feeing thefe ceremonies per- formed, andtherefo*|iallnot attempt to defcribe them; as any account I could give\rould be equally partial and uncert' ^''^- "''"> « f''<^ breeze at Eaft '"^ North Eaft. At fix in the morning of .he ,9th we changed our courfc to South South Weft. China was the place of our next deftmation, and we were al- ready m the fame latitude, and confequently had only the lonei- tude to run down , but our Captain judged it moft prudent to fteer to the Southward, 'till we were in about 13 deg. 30 n,in. North latitude, and then bear away to the Weflward; as that track was the moft likely for a true trade, and it had been found in Captam Cook«ft voyage, that in the latitude 20 and 21 de^ to leeward of thefe iflands, the winds are at beft but light, and often variable. During the 19th and 20th we had a fine fteady Eafterly breeze. During the night we hauled our wind to South, and at day-light again fteered South South Weft. The night of the 20th was fqually, with rain j and during the 2ift we had light breezes and cloudy weather: our latitude at noon was 18 deg. 23 min. North; and the longitude 161 deg 13 min. Weft. The variation of the compafs is here 8 deg Eafterly. °' From the 21ft to the 25th we had a frefli Eafterly breeze *our latitude at noon on the 25th was 13 deg. 22 min. which being as far as we intended to fail to the Southward, our courfe was changed to Weft by South; the variation of the compafs being near i" Hpt T?ort.„..i,,. * o ^ " From PI t ^: 282 1787. Oaober. A' VOYAGE TQ THE. t From this to the 8th of 06lober we had little variety. Ther weather was intenfely hot» the thei'mometer being from 8.8 to 9 1 degrees. We had frequent heavy fqualls, particularly in the night-time, attended with lightning. Our latitude at noon on the 8tli, was 13 deg. 24 min. North j and the longitude 187 deg. 37 min. Weft. At nine o'clock in the evening we had a very hard fquall, attended with heavy rain, which obliged us to clue all lip and run right before it 3 but towards eleven o'clock the wea- ther moderated. As this part of tl ocean feemed particularly fub- ject to fqualls, efpecially in the night-time, we every day at fun- fet had the precaution to reef our topfails and make every thing fnug, fo that we might be ready for thefe fuddcn gufts, and run no danger of carrying any thing away. W In the right of the 12th, we had two very fevere fqualls, but fortunately they did us no damage. They were attended with much thunder, lightning, and violent rain. I cannot help thinking part of the celebrated fimile in the ingenious Mr. Addifon's " Campaign" particularly applicable ta circumftances of this fort. Such fudden and impetuous torrents of wind muft certainly baffle the utmoft eftbrts of human fkill to guard againft their dire efteds, were tl>ey not guided by au Al- mighty power J and furely we may fay of the miniftering Angel,, that bringing a pilot with him to take the velTel to Canton, on which we4mmediately difcharged our former pilot. We had been under fome degree of anxiety on account of Captain Dixon's long ab- fence j but it feems the Chinefe are not very expeditious in tranf- aifting their T)ufmefs, and there is no remedy for thefe delays but patience. There came with the Captain from Macao, Mr. Rofs, Firft Mate of the Nootka, (which veffel arrived here fome time be- fore us) a Mr. Moore, the Purfer, and Tyana, a Sandwich Ifland Chief whom Captain Meaies had brought from Atoui, as paf- fengers to Canton^ It feems th,e Nootka received confiderable damage on firft coming into Macao Roads in a gale of wind, in confequence of which their furs had been fent to Canton in another veffel. The 1 »■ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 291 The tide being in our favour, we weighed anchor at one 1787. o'clock, and made fail, with light variable winds and fine weather, ^^l"!!]^' From Macao Roads to Wampo, the place of our deftination, the courfe is nearly North North Weft, and the diftance about twenty- three leagues. Near the midway is a narrow pafTage called the Bocca Tigris, defended by a paltry fort on each fide the river. From the nth to the 14th we were employed in working up to this paflage, the wind being conftantly againft us, fo that we were obliged to anchor every tide. At four in the afternoon of the 14th, we paflied the Bocca Ty- gris, and foon after, the tide being done, came to anchor in five fathom and a half water. The foundings up the river from Ma- cao are from eight to four fathom, over a foft bottom. A Mandarine boat now came along-fide us, with a perfon fent by Government to attend our veflel, much of the fame nature as the Cuftom-houfe Officers in England, as we were informed his bufinefs was to prevent any illicit trade from being carried on. Atone o'clock in the morning of the 15th, we weighed and made fail. Having light variable airs, our boats were hoifted out and fent a-head to tow the velfel. We kept working up the ri- ver in this manner during the whole of the 15th, and at fix o'clock in the morning of the iCth, came to anchor at the bottom of Wampo Roads, in four fathom and a half water. Soon after- wards our paflengers left us j and towards noon, after giving or- ders for the veflel to proceed to the upper end of the fleet, O o 2 Capt un 1 ':< 1 1 i :';'' t ■« ,•■ ;|, - ?- ■■■• « 292 1787. November. RnFp A VOYAGE TO THE Captain Dixon went in a Chinefe paflage-boat to Canton, in order to leain from the Eaft India Company's Supercargoes the beft method of facilitating our bufmefs. At eleven o'clock we weighed and began to warp through the fleet up the river. At three in the afternoon we anchored with the fmall bower, in four fathom and a half water, over a muddy bottom, mooring with the ftream anchor; the vil- lage of Wampo bore Weft North Weft. Canton is about four-»r teen miles higher up the river, but the ihips ,of the different countries who trade to China are not admitted farther thati>. Wampo. Indeed I believe the river is not navigable for larga vefTels fo far as Canton. As it was Captain Dixon's wifli to procure frefli provifions for the {hip's company as foon as poflible, no time was loft in mak- ing every necellhry enquiry for tliat purpofe, and we foon learnt, that in fpite of our utmoft care it would be impoflible to avoid a number of impofitions : that every veffel was fupplied with whatever provifions they wanted by an officer, called a Comprador, who always demanded a cumjlmu, or gratuity of three hundred dollars, excluUve of the profit which would accrue to him from ferving us with provifions^ A demand of this nature ajipeared fo very exorbitant, that we determined, if polfible, to avoid it ; and a Captain Talker, from Bombay, whofe vefl'el lay near oiirs, kindly offered to furnifh us with beef for the prefent. This, however, could not be done without caution ; for we had a Hoppo or Cuftom-houfe boat on each fide the veflel, with officers on boaid, who made it a point ta NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 293 to prevent any beef coming on board unlefs furnifhed by a Com- 1787. prador. November. ■ • During this time our people were employed in unbending the fails, unreeving the running rigging, and doing whatever jobbs were immediately neceflary. » In the forenoon of the 17th the Captain returned from Canton. He was informed by the Company's Supercargoes that no fteps could be taken refpedting the difpofal of our furs, till the Super- intendant of the Chinefe Cuftoms had been on board to meafure our vefTel j and as the King George was expefted foon, he would not come till after her arrival. The Hoppo, as he is generally called, is a perfon of very great authority, and next in rank to the Viceroy of Canton. Having procured fome beef from Captain Talker, the fhip's Company were allowed two pounds per man, each day, with a proportionate quantity of greens, the man in the hoppo boat undertaking to fupply us with every thing of the vegetable kind we miglit want. All the fpirits on board being expended, on the 19th we pur- chafed a leger of arrack from a Dutchman, for forty- five dollars. In the afternoon we took up the ftream anchor, and moored with both bowers, a mooring junk being bent to the fmall bower. The Hoppo officer having found out by fome means or other, that we were fupplied with beef by Captain Talker, put a ftop to it ; and we again bid fair to live on fait provifions, or pay a Comprador^ extravagant cumJJjau. In this diiemna, Mr. Moore, Firfl: Mate of the Royal Admiral, Captain Huddart, happening to call on board, and hearing our fituation, kindly undeitook to fiirnilli us u ith * beef Yu- i 294 A VOYAGE TO THE W llv sidiia^ki..lif 1787. beef, on condition th^it we fent our boat for it every morning; November, ^^^j always took care not to let the beef be feen. We willingly accepted his offer, and our boat was fent to the Royal Admiral jcgularly every morning, and had geaerally the good fortune to £et the beef on board unperceived. 'On the 23d our Captain went to Canton, and returned the fame evening, having heard that the King George was arrived at Macao, which was a moft agreeable piece of intelligence. At noon on the 24th Captain Dixon went in the whale-boat» with feven hands, to meet the King George, in order to affift in towing her up the river, Ihould they not have a favourable breeze. On over-hauling our ftock of provifions it appeared that we had fome to difpole of; and this afternoon we fold three tierces of beef to a Leghorneze veffel which lay in the river, at twenty-four dollars per tierce. About noon on the 25th, our confort, the King George, arrived in the river, and anchored near us ; bringing all her people in good health and fpirits, to our very great fatisfadion. Captain Portlock's fuccefs on the coaft, after we left him, had been nothing equal to our's j indeed it was not to be expefted that he could procure many furs in Prince William's Sound, though no effort was left untried for that purpofe ; the boats being con- ilantly out in the adjacent creeks and inlets, at a diftance from the fliip^ The NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 295 The long-boat had been pretty fuccefsful in Cobk's River, and 1787. had made two trips ; being obliged to come back tne firit time for J^^^^;^;^""- a frefh aflbrtment of trade. After leaving Prince William's Sound, Captain Portlock had fallen in with a harbour betwixt Crofs Sound and the Bay of Iflands. The paflage mto it is rather dangerous, and it affords no great quantity of furs ; fo that it will be no objed for future traders. His long-boat had found a pafTage from thence into Norfolk Sound ; at which place the inhabitants fliewed his people tin kettles, pewter bafons, &c. which they immediately knew had. been bartered by us.. From this place Captain Portlock fleered directly for Sandwiclu Iflands, where he arrived about a week after we left them ; fo that: our meeting the Prince of Wales off King George's Sound, was particularly fortunate, as our waiting for Captain Portlock there would have been fo much time entirely loft. But to return. — In the morning of the 26th both our Captains went to Canton, and returned in the afternoon of the 27th. Mr. Browne (Preli- dent of the Supercargoes) aflured them that the Superintendant of the Cuftoms (or John Tuck, as the Chinefe commonly call him'^ would come to meafure both veflels very Ihortly, and that immediately afterwards, our bufmefs fliould be expedited without delay. During this time our people. were employed in overhauling the rigging, and doing every other neceliary work that was re- quired. On the 29th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. William Macleodj Firft Mate of tlie King George, departed thia life. His. ^ death f 'r> it ' im- .^■- }\ 1v r ; f=- I Q<)(i 1787. November A VOYAGE TO THE death was not oGcafioned by any diforder caught during the prefent voyage, but from an old complaint in the urethra, which fre- quently occafioned a fuppreffion of urine, and other alarming fymptoms, during the latter part of the voyage. At the time of his being taken ill (which was on the 28th) he was on a vifit on board the Locko Indiaman ; and his drinking fome ftale porter after dinner brought on fo violent a relapfe of his diforder, as was fuppofed to be the immediate caufe of his death. He died uni- verfally lamented by his friends and acquaintance, and was interred, in the forenoon of the 30th, on Frenchman's Ifland. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 2d of December we were honoured with the prefence of John Tuck on board. He was at- tended by a numerous retinue, who paid him a princely refpeft, fainting him at his coming upon deck with a bent knee. This vifit feems to be a mere matter of form, as they only meafure from the foremaft to the taffrel, and then athwart near the gangway, which certainly can give them but a very impcrfeft idea of a velTel's burthen : however they demand (I am informed) no lefs than a thoufand pounds fterling, as a port charge, for this piece of mummery. His Excellency made us a prefent of two poor buffaloes, eight jars of famfhu, (a fpirit fo bad that we threw it overboard) and eight bags of ground rice, about forty pounds each. , This necelTary piece of bufinefs being over, proper meafures were taken to get our furs to Canton. We learnt, on enquiry, that a choppe, or Guftom-houfe boat muft be procured at Canton for the cargo of each vcffel, the expence of which would be fif- teen dollars each ; however, as the King George's cargo was con- fiderably 4, NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 597 fiderably lefs than our's, we judged that by taking their furs 1787. on board our veflel, the expence of a boat might be faved : ac- December, cordingly, this afternoon we received from the King George feven puncheons and two flop-chcfts of furs. On the 4th Captain Dixon went to Canton, to get every thing in readinefs at our factory for flowing the furs, and to fend a boat to carry them up. In the morning of the 5th a choppe boat came along-fide for our cargo ; Captain Portlock likewife fent a fmall chert, and a bundle of furs on board. We fent to Canton twenty-three puncheons, two cherts, and two calks, containing the whole of our furs ; and feven puncheons, three cherts, and one bundle, belonging to the King George ; the particular contents of all which, I ftiall, perhaps, have occafion to mention hereafter. From our firft arrival 'till now, the people had been employed in overhauling the rigging and repairing whatever was defeftive j our main yard had been condemned, and another fubrtituted in its room, with fundry other neceflary jobs. On the 6th we began to clear the hold, and fent our empty cafks on rtiore to be re- paired: the fail-makers were employed in making fundry new fails, and repairing the old ones. Thefe different employments engrofled the greateft part of this month ; and indeed we were in no particular hurry, as none of our furs were yet difpofed of, and till then we could not take in any :argo for the Eaft-India Company. On the 26tli the Carpenters began to caulk between decks. Captain Portlock purchafed a number of rattans, foi the purpofe Pp of J* %: I 298 A VOYAGE TO THE 1787- of dunnaging the hold; and this afternoon we received 897 bun- * dies from the Rofe, and on the 27th, 563 bundles more. We are in daily expe6lation of hearing good news from Can- ton, fo that our preparations on board for a cargo of tea go on brilkly. Adieu. Thine, ever, W.B. Wampo, 7 December 28th. \ V. ' LETTER XLIV, AS we were now anxious to have the veflel ready for a cargo, and the weather was rather precarious, we engaged twa Caulkers from the Houghton Indiaman, on the 28th of Decem- ber, to affift our Carpenters, it being abfolutely neceflkry to liave the fliip tight, before we could pretend to take any teas on board. On the 29th an American veflel called the Alliance, Captain Read, anchored in the river. This vellel is frigate built, and had been employed againft us with fome degree of I'uccefs during our late unhappy conteft with the Americans ; but now it feems tlx-ir *■ /pairs NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. '^99 j^cars are turned to pruning-k h^ and their frigates to merchant-^ 1737. Dec mber. mm. For fome days paft our fupply of beef from tlie Royal Admiral had been by no means regular, and we had been obliged to ufe fait provifions more than once > this occafioned us to apply to Captain Portlock, (who had engaged a Comprador on his firft arrival in the river) and on the 31ft we began to receive our beef from the King George, By this time our after-hold was clear, and the cafks on the ground tier ready for water ; on this the long-boat was fent to Canton, that being the neareft place where water can be procured fit for ufe. Whilft every thing on board or:r veflel was getting forward ■with the utmoft difpatch, in order to be ready for a cargo when- ever the Council of Supercargoes lliould tliink proper to fend one, our bufmefs at Canton was totally at a Hand, none of Qur furs being as yet diijjofed of. In order to form fome idea of the probable reafons for this de- lay, it perhaps may be neccliai y to fay a few words refpefting tlie confignment of our (kins, tl-'C methods taken by the pcrfons they were configned to for the difp :/fai of them, and the various impe- dimenii> raifed by the Chinefe to prevent their being fold to ad- vantage. At the time our voyage was firll fot on foot, Cliina was the market fixed on for the difpofal of whatever furs we might pro- cure i and at the fame time it was judged of no hnail conicquence to fe'^i t .-•I- 30O 1787- December. A VOYAGE TO THE to procure a freight from thence. An agreement with the Eal!- India Company was accordingly made j our furs were to be fold to their Supercargoes at a fair price, or left in their hands for them to difpofe of at a future opportunity, and they were to have a certain per centage on whatever fum of money they might fetchr ■ No fooner were the Ikins landed at our factory, than a particu- lar account of them was taken by a fet of Merchants belonging to the Cufl:oms> and who (I underftand) give fecurity to the Empe- ror for the duty being paid : another account was taken by people- employed by Mr. Browne for that purpofe. Our (kins being properly aflbrted, the quantity fixed on to be difpofed of by Mr. Browne was 2,552 fca-otter Ikins, 434 cub, and 34 fox Ikins. The remainder of our cargo, which confifted of 1,080 beaver tails, fundry indifferent pieces of beaver Ikins and cloaks, iic^ fur feals, about 1 50 land beaver, fixty fine cloaks of the earlef» marmot ; together with fundry racoon, fox, lynx, &c. were left to be difpofed of by our Captains in the bed manner they were able ; probably for no other reafon than to furnifli them with money for their current cxpences, and no doubt expefting what they had left would be barely fufficient for that purpofe. In regard to the lale of our furs, I fhould firfl: obferve, that there is at Canton a Company of wealthy Merchants, called the Hong-Merchants, with whom our Eaft India Company tranfad all their bufinefs, and purchpfe from them the whole of the tea and China-ware fent to Great Britain. To thefe people our furs, were offered, with an cxpcuiation of their immediately taxiing' tn.em I off NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 301 off our hands at an advantageous price ; but here we were woefully 1787. difappointed, and we found, to our coll, the fad miftake of our °^'=^'"''^'■' Owners, m appointing the Supercargoes to have the foledifpofal of their property, for the ipoment thefe Hong-Merchants had looked the fkins over, and fixed a value on them, no other Merchant durft interfere in the purchafe : ind-ed as the quantity above-mentioned was not fuffered to be divided, there were not many people except thefe Hong-Merchants who had it in their pow.^r to buy fo large a parcel, and advance the money immediately : add to this, the duty on merchandize in the Port of Canton feems not to be regulated by any fixed rule, but refts in a great meafure in the breafts of thofe appointed by the Hoppo to lay it on, and who fix it higher or lower at pleafure. With thefe people the Hong-Merchants have great influence j fo that had any indifferent perfon been at liberty to purchafe our fkins, and difpofed to give us an advan- tageous price for them, the fear of having an enormous duty to pay, would at once deter him from any attempt of the kind ; this we found ftriclly verified more than once. In this poor fituation were we with refpe6t to the fale of our cargo, during the month of December, and the greateft part of January : either we muft clofe with the paltry offers which the Hong-Merchants had made to the Supercargoes, or be under the necellity of leaving our furs in their hands undifpofed of j this both parties knew we wilhed to avoid, if poffible. Mean while, fome of the refufe which they had left for us to difpofe of, fold to confiderable advantage ; the 1,080 tails fold for two dollars each ; the fur feals for five dollars each, and a fmall parcel of rubbilh for fifty-five dollars. On %nh^ 302 A VOYAGE TO THE OnHhc 7th of January, 17S8, wc fcnt to Canton 130 pekel of flints, a parcel of blankets, and fcveral grofs of buckles > a Hoppo boat was alfo loaded witli flints from the King George, The blan- kets and buckles vveic brought out to trade witli the Americans ; and we were given to under Hand they were a very laleable article amongft the Chinefe. By the 14th, our quarter-deck being completely caulked, we paid It over with a compofitloi; of damar and oil ; the main and fore- iiiafl:s were alfo paid with the fame compofition. On the 20th, twoEaft India Captains came to furvey our vefl*el, Ly the dircftion of the Supercargoes, previous to their fending any teas on board j they found feveral defers in our lower deck, and gave direaions for having it properly fecured; at the fame time they fcnt us a carpenter and a caulker, to aflifl our people in exp Dcditing this bufincfs. In the afternoon a boat came along-fide, with 100 cherts bohea tea. At eleven o'clock in the evening we parted our mooring junk, on which we got out the large kedge and iVrcam cable to fleady the ihip. The Survcvors having ordered our lower deck to be floated, on the 23d the Carpenters got the dams ready for that purpofe; and r.T eleven o'clock, the Surveyors again coming on board, found the V .liel completely fit for a cargo. On tlie 7.5th we had the good fortune to recover our fmall bower, ' . \ v'mi' ■'. J'-ho.nof thejunk. On NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 303 On the 26th, our principal furs, viz. the 2,552 otter ; 434 cub, 1788. and 34 fox, were fold and delivered to the Eaft India Company's £i;^ Supercargoes, for 50,000 dollars. It fliould feem, that our Captains had only a mere negative ia this buhnefs ; but finding it impollible to obtain a better price, and it being high time to think of failing, they were glad to clofe with this offer, though very far fliort of what we at one time had reafoii to expea : indeed there now were other reafons, and thole very weighty ones, befides what I have already mentioned, for conclud- ing this buancfs. The furs brought by the Nootka had recently been fold for 9,750 dollars :— 700 fine fea-otter Ikins, ^t!ic cargo of the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley) were in the hands of Mr. Beale, a principal Owner, and refidcnt at Canton :— 1,000 ottcr- fkins were fent by the Spanifli M^monarles from California, aiul that part of the coaft towards King George's Sound, to Manilla, and from thence were lately arrived at Canton :— two French vef- fcls which had been upon the American coall on difcovcry, and lately arrived at Macao, had picked up 200 fine Tea otter-lkins ; add to this, a great number of black rabbit-lkins and fur-fcals^ which are held in tolerable eftimation here, had lately been brought from England : all thefe being in the market at once, quite glut- ted it, and had fuch an efied on the Chinefc, that they fcurcely thought furs worth taking away. Thefe circumltances being duly confidered, it certainly was the moft prudent llcp our Captains could poffibly take to clofe with the Sujiercargoes, as (exclufive of other confiderations) by this means we were enabled to remit bills of exchange to our Owners, and our departure was greatly facilitated. Cfi r p. : h ^ ■ I If il '1' ;o4 A VOYAGE TO THE 1788. On the 30th, we received on board the remaining part of our Tanuarv. r l_. _^^^ cargo or teas. I have before obferved, that there were fundry parcels of inferior furs, together with the marmot cloaks, which we were permitted to fell ; a few of thefe had been difpofed of, but the greateft part ftill lay on our hands, and they being the only thing which now detained us at China, we at laft fold the whole, together with the flints, buckles, and blankets, to Chichinqua, for 1,000 dollars ; the old man at the fame time obferving, that he had no other motive for making this purchafe, than a wifti to haften our depar- ture, it being a pity, he faid, that two fuch fmall veffels as ours fliould be detained at a heavy expence for fuch a trifle. I am in- clined to think, that old Chichinqua was fincere in this affertion, for when the furs were delivered to his people, they feemed to re- gard them as mere rubbifli, though a month before, they would certainly have fetched at leaft four times the money ; but at that time we were not at liberty to fell any thing whatever. '^.rm^ r f ■ By this time our cargo was properly flowed, our water com- pleated, and every thing ready for fea. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 5th of February we unmoored, and at twelve weighed anchor and made fail, having a breeze at North North Weft. At three in the afternoon we came to with the fmall bower, at the bottom of the fleet, in fix fathom water. In the evening our Captains arrived from Canton, having difcharged the faftory, and finally fettled all our bufinefs there. In the morning of the 6th the King George unmoored, but having little or no wind, ftie warped down the fleet, and came up Having the wind genci'ally contrary, we Witji us uuout iuur o'c lock. ''^^%h NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 30^ we came to every tide, and did not arrive in fight of Macao till the 1788. morning of the 9th, when we anchored in Macao Roads ; Macao F^b-^^y- bearing Weft South Weft, and the Peak of Lintin Eaft about four """"^ leagues diftant. Our grand obje6l being now compleated, thou maycft eafily imagme we are anxious for a fpeedy and fafe paflage to Old Eng- land, but no one more than thine, &c. Macao, ) ^' ^• Feb. 10th, J LETTER XLV. I^HINA is a place fo much frequented by Englifhmen, on \^ account of the very extenfive commerce carried on there by the Eaft India Company, and on that account fo univerfally known, that it will perhaps be ridiculous for me to make any re- marks concerning it j however, as thou art fond of novelty, and perhaps art no farther acquainted with China than by perufing Du Halde, I fliall trouble thee with what few obfervations I have been able to make concerning this place and its inhabitants. Were we to form our opinion of this country, from the impref- fions its firft appearance makes, it would be of the moft unfavour- able kind, as fcarcely any thing in nature can have a more barren, dreary, and uncomfortable aiped, than the Lema Iflgnds, or in- Q^ deed in'( 3o6 1788. Feliruary. A VOYAGE TO THE deed the face of the country, after wc arrive in Macao Roads ; but by the time we reach the Bocca Tigris, the profpeft brightens : from thence to Canton the river afliimes a ferpentine form, and every turn prefents to your viev^' a different branch of the river, many- of which are natural, and others the ^f^n^z of labour and art. Numerous villages are fcen in thefe different viftos, and they abound vi^ith a pleafing variety of beautiful landfeapes, agreeably diverfified with plains, and gently rifmg grounds : the fummits of the hills are adorned with lofty Pagodas ; the rifmg grounds are ornamented with trees of various forts, whofe verdure is in con- ftant fucceffion, and refembles an everlafting fpring, whilft the plains afford large quantities of fugar-cane and rice. Yet with all thefe combined advantages of nature and art, thefe profpeds, fo truly pleafing at a diftance, lofe much of their effe£l on a nearer approach. The foil is generally of a loofe fandy nature, and the furface of the earth is far from poffeffmg that beautiful ver- dure for which the Britifli plains are fo remarkable, and feems but ill adapted either for pafturage, or the cultivation of grain in gene- ral. The villages, though numerous, and extremely populous, are with fome few exceptions, oppreffed with poverty and want ; and I believe the quantity of rice produced here, is quite inlufficient for the confumption of the inhabitants, great quantities being yearly imported from Manilla, and the Eaft Indies. The climate at Wampo is extremely unhealthful, and fuch great and fudden variations are there in the temperature of the air, that I have frequently known the thermometer to change froni 41 deg. to 86 deg. in twenty- four hours. The country to the North Eaft is low and mar(hy, and the hea\ y damp fogs exhaled from thcnc?, frequently bring on agues, intermitting fevers, and 2 fluxes i NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. m fluxes ; though probably this laft diforder is accelerated by the »788. quantity of arrack which the failors frequently drink to excefs. ^^^J^- Wampo, as I have already obferved, is the rendezvous for Hiips of all nations, trading to China. Here you fee Englifh, French, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, Italians, and Pruffians : the Americans, too, have, it feems, overcome their diftaile againft tea, and have opened a trade for that commodity with the Chinefe. Till thefe few years the Germans had afaftory at Canton, but at prefentthe Imperial Company is infolvent, and they dare not fend any veOels to China, for fear of having them feized in part of payment for the debt already incurred. I greatly queflion, whether the trade carried on by our Eaft India Company to China, is not of more confequence, than that of all other nations put together, if indeed we except that carried on by the Chinefe Merchants to Manilla and Batavia, which is very exten- five. The Captains of fliips, during their flay here, hire temporal y warehoufes of the Chinefe, fituated near the river fide, for the purpofe of landing their ftores or car-o, wnilft their vefTels are re- pairing, or carrying on any employment that can be done more conveniently here than on board : in this refpe61, the French have greatly tic advantage over us, for their warehoufes arc fituattd on a <\vy cc.nfortable idand, where they have not orly every conveni- ence for carrying on their relpeclive employments, but have like- wife a comfortable hofpital for the reception of their fick ; whereas the Englifh warehoufes, being chiefly on t)\c low mar/hy ground befue- mentioned, are in fome meafure precluded from thefe ad- vantages. Qj Canton t 6 % 1788. February, H A VOYAGE TO THE Canton is fituated on the Tigris, about four leagues from; Wampo. Here the different nations who trade with the Chinefe have faiftories for the refidence of their Confuls or Supercargoes. Thefc form a tolerably handfomc range of buildings, fituated on a kind of quay, near the river-fide, about a quarter of a mile in length i but that belonging to the Englifh is incomparably the moft elegant and commodious. None of thefe Fa6lors are al- lowed to flay at Canton after the (hips leave the country, but always go in the lafl veflel to Macao, where they refide till the; fliipping returns next feafon. Adjoining to thefe public faiSlories are a number of private, ones, which are occupied by the Captains of different vefTels, who hire them during their flay here from the Hong- Merchants, as they generally refide at Canton for the greater conveniency ofi tranfaSling their bufinefs witli the Supercargoes, or any private concerns of their own. M Behind thefe faflories, are the city and fuburbs of Canton. Of die city I can form but \c;ry little idea, as no flrangcr is admitted within its gates- The Sheets of the fuburbs in general are exr ceedingly narrow and inconvenient, but are tolerably clean, be- ing paved v/ith broad flag-flones. They confifl entirely of the. fhops and warehoufes of difierent trades and manufaftures carried on here, which are fometimes very extenfive, but feidom confift of more than one flory. Canton is extremely populous; but. nothing can better fhcw. how difficult it is to form a competent idea of the number of its inhabitants, than the different opinions of various authors who have orofefl'edly wrote on the fubiedlj fome reckonino" more thai\ I a million, NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 309 a million, and others again eighty thoufand. Without taking 1788. notice of fuch abfurd difproportions, I fhall jufl: obferve, tha't ^^bniarjr. the calcuhition made by Captain King, is, in my humble opinion, '" ' '"^ by far neareft to the truth : he computes the number of inha- bitants to be one hundred and fifty thoufand, which is certainly a very moderate calculation. Befides thefe, there are an amazing number of people who live altogether on the water, in boats, called fampans, and amount, according to the loweft calculation, to forty thoufand j but I am inclined to think they confiderably exceed that number. The greater part of thefe poor wretches obtain a precarious live- lihood by filhing, and perhaps fonie trivial employments occa- fionally picked up on the river. Others again ply as conftant paffage-boats from place to place, after the manner of our water- men : for two dollars you may hire a handfome fampan, with good. accommodations for eight or ten people, to take you from Wampo to Canton. Thefe boats are fitted up in the infide al- mofl: like a parlour, with a table and chairs for the paflengers. They have lattices made of pearl, and covered with a neat arched roof of bamboo. E. Ii I" ,r; « ■r The lower kind of people live entirely on rice, with perhaps a- little fifli, barely fufficient to give it a relifli, whilit the Manda- rines, and in (hort all thofe whofe circumftances will afford it,* pamper themfelves with, every kind of luxury, and are remarkably- fond of lelifhing fauces and highly feafoned difhes. Tlie common produce of the kitchen-garden, fuch as cabbages, carrots, greens, . turnips, potatoes, 6cc. are in great plenty here, and i m .■ 310 A VOYAGE TO THE I" .< 17S8. and yet, fuch is the poverty of the common people, that very February. ^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^-^jj ^^ ^j^^-^. ^^^^.^^ The artificers in various manufa6lures here, are very ingeni- ous and expert. To fay any thing about the excellence of their china-ware, would be abfurd, as every female goflip in England can harangue by the hour about the neatnefs and elegance of her laft '' longfet" though, to be fure, it did not coft near fo much as her neighbours ; but—" indeed fhe wonders how fame people can have Jo little tap /" Their numerous patterns in filk and velvet are certainly Inge- nious and well-fancied ; but for goodnefs of fabric, and lafting beauty, they undoubtedly mufl give place to our looms in Spital- Fields. Many of their artificers (hew a great degree of dexterity and ingenuity, particularly in their cabinet and lacquered work; many of thefe things are, however, merely ornamental, and but little calculated for real utility. The Chinefe method of wearing their hair is fomething Angu- lar, though I believe the fame cuftom prevails all over the Eaft. They Ihave the head clofe, except a fmall circular place on the crown ; this being frequently ihaved when they are mere infants, the hair afterwards grows remarkably long, and is wore in a neat triple plait. The women fuffer their hair to grow long, and drefs it in neat circular folds on the top of the head, in a conical form ; in this curious fold a number of ornaments are wore by the better fort. Small NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3H Small feet are reckoned extremely hanJfome amongft the fe- »788. males, fo that they are cramped up from their infancy j rmd by ^^'"■''''^' this means many of them are little better than cripples. In regard to their Government, I can fay but little. The Em- peror is of Tartarian extraaion, and may, I believe, be called a defpotic monarch ; at leaft, the fubordinate parts of Government, fuch as the Cuftoms, &c. we can experimentally fay, are llriaiy fo. However, we have undoubted proofs that their police is in fome refpefts better regulated than that of any country in the world ; for the Englifh Supercargoes, on their leaving Canton, frequently leave at leall one hundred thoufand pounds in fpecie behind them, under no better fecurity than the feal of the Hong- Merchants and Mandarines. The Captains at the different pri- vate faaories truit their property, without the leall fcruple, to the care of Chinefe fervant , and, I believe, an inftance of dif- honefty was fcarcely ever heard of. I have before obferved, that the Chinefe are fond of high-fea- foned difhes, yet they ire very moderate in thtir meals, never making more than two in the day; the firll about ten in the morning, the fecond about five in the afternoon ; t' e intcrnjcdiate time is employed, by thofe not engaged in buJincrs, in fmoaking, , drinking tea, and paying vifits to their neighbours. The Chinefe language is exceedingly difficult to be underftood ; and this does not proceed from its being copious, but quite the reverfe, the fame word having a great variety of fignifications, ac- cording to the different modes of pronunciation, and this variety of emphafis is oft diftinguiflied by a kind of iinging tone ; {o that I am inviintd to think a patty of Chinefe obliged to converfc to- gether I 1 iiS>. r 3' 1 2 A VOYAGE TO THE 1788. gether -in whifpers, would be able to underftand each other but February, f imperfealy. Nor is this capital defeft in theii= language likely to be reme- died. The Mandarines affe6V to write in arbitrary charafters, (o as not to be underftood by the common people ; this muft ever prevent the Chinefe language from being brought to a proper ftandard, fo as to be underllood by the world in general. Their method of writing is in columns, from the top to the bottom, in the fame order as we make figures of pounds, Ihil- lings, and pence ; and they always begin at the right-hand margin and conclude on the left. Their arithmetic is decimal, every thing being reckoned by tens. They have not any idea c f addition by figures, but are very expert in carting up any fums, by the help of wooden balls, which run on fmall ipindles in a kind of open box. The money in circulation here is chiefly Spanifh dollars ; the only money coined in this extenfive empire, is a bale kind of cop- per, called cajh, eighty of which are about the value of eight- pence fterling. Their religion is rank Paganifm, every family having its houfe- iiold god, which is an image, generally fixed in feme confpicuous place, and decorated with a number of fantaftical ornaments ; a light is kept conftantly burning near this image in the night- time. All the boats on the river have got a place in the ftern jippropriated for " Jos," as they call their image or god, and al- ■vv'ays take care to have the manfion of his v/orfhip illuminated in the NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i: 3^5 the night feafon ; yet many, even amongft the common people, 1788. have fufficient difcernment to perceive the fallacy of fuch an ab- f^^'"'^ furd vvorfhip, and readily acknowledge a Supreme Being, unfeen, invifible, and who exifts to all eternity. Polygamy is allowed here in its atmoft extent, and the people of rank in general keep a number of wives ; yet this indulgence is frequently infufficient to gratify their unnatural defires. They are particularly careful to prevent foreigners from having any conneftion with their women ; and whenever any thing of the kind is difcovered, the party Is fure to fuffer imprifonment, or pay a heavy fine. It is fomewhat remarkable, that a people who cany on an ex- tenfive commerce with the moft civilized nations, and have made fo great a prcgrofs in the polite arts, fuch as painting, architec- ture, &c. Hiould be totally ignorant of mufic ; and yet this is ab- folutely the cafe. The band which accompanied his Excellency the Hoppo, when he came to meafure our veflels, and which, no doubt, was compofed of the bell performers, to be in the fuit of fo great a perfonage, confided of two brafs conchs, beat like the Englifh tabor, and three or four pipes, not very much unhke a "bag-pipe ; the whole forming a harmony refembling a fow-gelder's horn and the cackling of geefe. However, joking apart, they •certainly have not the moft diftant idea of melody, and in this particular are very greatly excelled by the Savages on the North Well: coaft of America. China produces beef, mutton, pork, goats, geefe, ducks, fowls, 'Sec. in tolerable plenty. The beef is pretty good, but very fmall» weighing not niyre than nom fifiy to feventy pounds per quar- ^r ter. ■ 3 %■ i\ i;iH^ I- *j.--,.-..A- -«—»-; 3H A VOYAGE TO THE 17S8. ter. The hogs are of a peculiar breed, remarkably fat, and their JJ.|^' bellies frequently fvveep the ground. The poultry are greatly in- ferior to the Englifli. Every thing in China is fold by weight, which is diflinguifhed by caddies and pekels, the caddy weighing near twenty ounces and a quarter Englifh, and one hundred caddies make a pekel. The Compradors, who, as I before obferved, furnifli the different fliips here, weigh every thing alive, and make ufe of every art to make their hogs, geefe, ducks, &c. weigh heavy. They often cram them with ftones, and give them fait and water to make them thirfty, and in fliort ufe every method in their power to defraud and over-reach their employers. And I fhall conclude this imper- fe6l account of the Chinefe, by obferving, that a fliarping, cheat- ing difpofition, with fome 'uery few exceptions^ is generally preva- lent amongfl them. 1 am juft now furniflied with a very particular account of the Fur Trade, which fliall be the fubjedt of my next. Meanwhile, believe nie to be fincerely thine, &c. Off Macao, 1 Feb. 16th. J W.B. LET- NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3 IS 1788. February. LETTER XLVI. WFtlLST Captain Dixon was at Canton, a Gentleman, re- fident there, very obligingly favoured him with a parti- cular account of every tranfailion in the Fur.Tradfr fmce its commencement. As thou art a commercial man, any thing re- lating to that fubjea muft be peculiarly intercfting to thee j fo that I fliall here furnifli thee with this account as I have collected it from our Captain's minutes. King George's Sound being pointed out by the late Captain Cook, as the moft eligible fpot where a valuable cargo of furs might be colle6led, the firft veflel which engaged in this new em- ploy was 4eftined for that place. :■ he was a brig of fixty '.ons and thirty men, commanded by James Hanna. Captain Haima left the Typa in April, 1785, and arrived at King George's Sound the Auguft following. Heir, W about five weeks, he procured five hundred and ^ixty fea- .tie ■ '-'ns. He left the coaft in Sep- tember, and arrived at TvTac; o ii> December the fame year. I li R r The 31^ A VOVAGE to tub 1788. The above Ikins were fold at Cantoa the 2iilMarch, 1786, February. ^^^ valued as under, viz. 140 prime ikins, fold at 60 dollars each, 175 2d ditto, . 45 ditto 80 3d ditto, , . 30 ditto 5^ 4th ditto, . 15 ditto 50 5th ditto, . . .10 ditto- 500 vi^hole fkins, 240 flips and pieces, ellimated at 60 Ikins, fold for . 600 ditto 560 fea-otter (kin% Total amount 20,600 dollars. Encouraged by fo fuccefsful a beginning, the Gentlemen eia- gaged in this undertaking difpatched Captain Hanna a fecond time. He failed from Macao in May, 1786, in the Sea-Otter fnow, of one hundred and twenty tons and thirty men. Having before fucceeded fo well in King George's Sound, his orders were to proceed to the fame place, purfuing his former track. He ar- rived at the Sound in Auguft, but the complexion of things was now greatly altered : Cumakeela, an Indian Chief, whom he be- came acquainted with during his former vifit to this place, in- formed him, that two fliips had lately been there who had bought all the furs, and John M'Key, whom he found here as has already been related, confirmed this circumftance. Wifliing however to refrefli his people, many of whom were ill of the fcurvy, he lay in the Sound about a fortnight, during which time he purchafed 2 about NORTH-WEST GOAST OF AMERICA. 3,^^. afeout fifty good fea-otter Ikins, which were brought him by the 1788. natives from diftant parts. Captain Hanna afterwards traced the ^^'^^^^y- coaft to near 53 degrees . North latitude. He anchored in St. ^""'""^ Patrick's Bay, in the latitude 50 degrees 42 minutes North, and met with fome inhabitants there, but got few furs of any con- fequence. He left the coaft on the ift of Odober, and arrived at Macao the 8th of February, 1787. The furs Captain Hanna procured this voyage were fold at Canton the 12th of March, 1787, and confifted only of 100 fea-otter fkins, fold at 50 dollars each, and 300 different fized flips and pieces of fea-otter, fome of them indifferent, at 10 ditto ditto. Total amount 8,000 dollars. The Ihow Captain Cook, Captain Lorie, of 300 tons, and the fnow Experiment, Captain Guife, of 100 tons, were fitted out at Bombay, and left that place the beginning of 1786. They arrived at King George's Sound in June, at which place they pro- cured near 600 fea-otter (kins. On leaving this place they pro- ceeded along the coaft, and difcovered an extenfive found in about 51 deg. Northlatitude, which theycalled Queen Charlotte's Sound; from thence they proceeded in a diredl courfe to Prince WiUiam'a Sound. What 3i8 A VOYAGE TO THE 1788. What time they left the Coaft I cannot fay 5 but the cargoes of l!^S l>oth veflels were fold at Canton the 4th of April, 1787, and con- fifted of the following furs, viz. Prime fea-otter ikins 2d ditto ditto 3d . . . . 4th .... In halves . • . . Smaller pieces Pieces of yellow and inferior 134 142 63 46 33 131 604 fea-otter flcins Sold on an average at forty dollars each. Total amount, 24,000 dollars j the remaing four fkins being included in the bargain. From this account (as it correfponds with that given by Mr. M'Key) it fhould feem that thcfe veflels procured the whole of their furs in King George's Sound, and that no other part of the coaft afforded them a lingle fkin. The fnow Nootka, Captain John Meares, was fitted out at Ben- gal by a fet of Gentlemen, who ftiled themfelves the Bengal/ Fur Society, and failed from thence in March, 1786. I have already given thee an account of this veflel's deftination, and her arrival at Macao. The cargo of the Nootka was fold at Canton the 4th of 3aft month, and confifted of the following furs, viz. 50 prime ITT NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Dollars. Dollars. 50 prime fea-otter Ikins fold for 70 each, 52 2d ditto , .. ^o do. 58 3d ditto . . 35 do. 31 4th ditto large, half worn 20 do. CO 5tli ditto, worn Ikins 15 do. 26 old and very bad .. ^ 5 do. 267 1 2 1 arge pieces and flips fea-otter i o do. I7fmaller . ditto . 5 do. 37 fea-otter tails ; 3 1 inferior ditto 48 land otter, bad and good 14 very bad beaver fkins 27 martens . . ; 2 do. 39 do- 6 do. 3 do. H Befides the above, Captain Meares fold 50 prime fea-otter fkins at Canton, at . . .91 each 9>030 205 "3 288 91692 4.550 So that the total amount will be 14,242 and may be called 357 fea-otter fkins befide the refuf^. Every 319 1788. February, !■ 1 320 1788. Fcbruiiry. A VOYAGE TO THE Every particular refpe£ling the deftlnatlon of the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley, has already been mentioned; (o that it will be needlefs for me to repeat them here : her cargo confifted of 800 fea-otter Ikins, chiefly of a fuperior quality , they were not fold when our Captain left Canton, but the price fixed on them was 30,000 dollars. The Spaniards within thefe two years have imported the fea-otter to China : they colleft their ikins near their fettlements of Mon* trery and San Francifco, and they are all of a very inferior quality. The Padres are the principal condudlors of this traffic. In 1787 they imported about 200 fkins, and the beginning of this year near 1,500. Thefe furs were not fold when we left C.an- ton ; they are fent from the fettlements before-mentioned to Aca- pulco, and from thence by the annual galleon to Manilla ; but they have not as yet attempted to fit out vcflels from any of their fettlements to the Northward. The L'Aftrolabe and Bouflale, two French fhips, commanded by M. Peyroufe, and De Langle, failed from France in 1785; they are faid to have traced the North Weft Coaft ©f America from the Spanifti fettlement of Montrery, to 60 deg. North latitude j but this feems rather improbable, for though thefe veffels were profefledly fitted out on difcovery, yet the Commanders did not forget that furs were a valuable article, and accordingly, whilft on the American coaft, they procured about 600 fea-otter ikins, chiefly in pieces, of a very inferior quality, and evidently tiie fame as thofe imported by the Spaniards ; whereas had thefe gentlemen ijeen well in with the coaft to the Northward, they undoubtedly muft J sV NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 321 muft have met with fea-otter fkhis, of a quality far fuperior to 1788. what they procured. February. Thefe fliips arrived at Macao in January, 1787, and their furs were fold at Canton by the Swedilh Supercargoes, for 10,000 dol- lars. I have already furnifhed thee with moft of the particulars re- fpeCHng the iale of our furs, and mentioned the places where we colleded them ; it only remains for me to obferve, that the total amount was 54,857 dollars. By comparing the faleof our furs with thofe already mentioned, thou mayeft at once perceive how very fluftuating this article is in the China market : out of 2,552 fea-otter Ikins, which we brought to Canton, at leaft 2,000 of them ought to have fetched fifty dollars each, and the remainder a price in proportion. What fui-s the Ruffians procure on the American coaft, it is im- poifible to afcertain, as they never bring them to the Canton mar- ket. We are pretty certain, that their traffic extends very little to the Eaftward of Cook's River, and that place certainly does not produce fo many fea-otter as King George's Sound ; fo that I Ihould imagine they do not colle6t 500 flcins annually. From this fhort Iketch of the fur-trade, thou mayeft eafily per- ceive, that very grqat advantages would be derived fr©m it, if placed on a permanent footing, to efFe6l which, I fliould conceive the moft eligible plan would be, to eftablifli a fa6lory on the coaft, and the North end of Queen Charlotte's Iflands feems peculiarly well adapted for that purpofe ; the fituation is nearly central, between S s Cook's H 'I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V. // ^^ <^ % {< & t/i & ^ 1.0 Li JfilM 12.5 t l& 12.0 L25 i 1.4 1.8 1.6 6" — Photographic Sciences Corporation ,\ ^Q « •1>^ A \ <^^ % '9> 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 r o '^ 32a , 1788. February. A VOYAGE TO THE Cook's River and King George's Sound ; and we are well afTuredji that the furs to the Southward are of a very inferior quality. Two fmall veffels would not only colle6i: all the fkins in what harbours are hitherto known, but likewife explore fuch parts of the coaft as are yet undifcovered j befides, there are other valuable articles to be procured here, fuch as ginfeng, copper,, oil, fpars, &c. and vaft quantities of falmon might be cured, which could not fail being a valuable commodity. Thefe, however,- are fuggeftions which I fubmit to thy fuperior judgment, though lam perfeftly convinced that a trade might be eftablifhed on this coaft, that would equal the moft fanguine expectations of thofe who undertook it. Adieu. Thine, &c; . W. B^ Off Macao, >- Feb. loth. 5 LETTER XL VII. AT one o'clock on the 9th of February, we weighed, and flood down Macao Roads to the Southward, with light baffling winds. At five o'clock we difcharged our pilot. At fun- fet the Typa bore North 65 deg. Weft, about three leagues dif- tant ; the Grand Ladrone South 35 deg. Eaft ; the Peak of Lintin ■MnrfU r-i-AfCT Fqft" At Vialf naft; Tfupn thp tiflp bpincr done, we 2 came I Ill< we NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3*3 came to with the fmall bower, in fix fathom water, ovtr a muddv >7S8. bottom. ' February, I fhall juft obferve, that Macao is fubjeft to the Portuguefe, but bemg fupphed with all the neceffaries of life by the Chinefe they dare do nothmg in oppofition to the Viceroy of Canton; fo that though they are not immediately under the Chinefe Government yet they are obliged to connive at. and fubmit to all their impofi- tions, however arbitrary they may be. made fail, with a moderate North Wefterly breeze, and clear wea- ther fleering South a little Eafterly. At ten o'clock, the Peak of the Grand Ladrone bore North 40 deg. Eaft, feven leagues diftant • our latitude at noon was 21 deg. 35 min. North ; and the longi-' tude 246 deg. 4 min. Weft. ^ ^ From the loth to the 13th, we had generally a moderate Eafterly breeze, and fine weather. In the morning of the 13th we faw a ftrange fail to the North Weft. Our latitude at noon was 18 de. ^.'^'!;' ?r ; ^l the afternoon, the fail feen by us in the morning pafl-ed clofe by the King George, and we learnt from Captai^ Portlock that It was the Imperial Eagle, Captain Berkley, and and tliat he was bound to the Mauritius. From the 17th to the 20th, we had a fteady trade breezp. with fine clear weather. At eleven in the morning of the 20th, we faw Remand Pulo Sapata bearing South Weft, about four leagues diftant. This Ifiand, at a diftance. has very much the refem- blance of a Chinefe llioe. n\ n lU S s 2 AH 32+ 1788. February. I 11: A VOYAGE TO THE At noon the Ifland bore South 6y deg. Weft, three miles dif*. tant, and a fmall rock to the Weftward, South 85 deg. Weft. Our latitude was 10 deg. 4 min. North j and the longitude 250 deg. 36 min. Weft. From the i6th, in latitude 15 deg. 33 rain- we had fteered nearly South Weft. ' On the 2ift, being in latitude 8 deg. 44 min. North, wc found a ftrong current fetting to the South Weft. In the afternoon of the 23d, being in 5 deg. 31- min. North latitude, and 254 deg. £6 min. longitude, we hauled our wind to the South South Eaft. At fix in the morning of the 25th, we faw a range of iflandsi csMcd the ^naml>as in the charts, extending from Eaft North Eaft to South Eaft by Eaft, diftant four leagues ; and foon afterwards, a fmall rocky ifland, called Pulo Domar, bearing South. At noor^ the rocky ifland bore North 37 deg. Eaft, diftant four or five leagues. Our latitude was 2 deg. 36 min. North j and the longi- tude 255 deg. 3 min. Weft j the weather extremely hot and fultry. . We found a current ftill fetting ftrongly to the South Weft. At eleven in the forenoon of the 26th, the land bore South 40 deg. Weft, about kven leagues diftant ; the latitude at noon i deg. 1 1 min. North. At fix o'clock in the afternoon, the Ifland Panfang bore North Weft by Weft five leagues diftant. During the night we had very heavy lightning all round the compafs. In the morning of the 27th, we faw the Ifland Domims, bear- ing South Weft. Our latitude at noon was 8 min. .South ; we had light winds and fine weather. At fix o'clock we faw Pula^ raya, which bore South 49 degrees Weft, the Peak of Linging North 64 degrees Weft. Our founding was fourtetn fathom. . At. NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA; 325 At feven o'clock we fhortened fail, and at ten brought to under ,7*8 ourtopfails. We had foundings from eight to fixteen fathom J'^^™^'^-- over a fandy bottom. ' ' — ~~^ During the night we wore occafionally ; and at five in the mormngofthe,28th, made fail, ftanding to the Southward with a moderate Eafterly breeze. At eight o'clock, Pula Taya bore North 50 degrees Weft. At eleven o'clock, Mr. William Lauder, our Surgeon, departed' this life i he was taken ill fome time bef-e we left Wampo. For a confiderable time we had great hopes of his recovery, being young, and of a found conftitution, unhurt by debauchery or excefs. Indeed he himfelf entertained the fame hopes till very near the laft , but his dubrder baffled the power of medicine, and he refigned himfelf to the Divine will, with the greateft compofure bemg perfeftly fenfible to the laft- moment. At noon we faw a range of iflands, which extended from South by Eaft to Eaft North Eaft, the neareft about three miles diftant ■ Pula Taya bore North 30 degrees Weft, diftant feven leagues- our latitude was i deg. 13 min. South. At four in the afternoon the body of Monopin-hill, on the Banca Hiore, bore South 50 deg. Eaft. At fix o'clock we had foundings from eleven to fixteen fa- thom, over a muddy bottom, and foon afterwards we faw a ftrange fail to the North Weft. At feven o'clock we ftiortened fail and hauled by the wind, wearing occafionally during the night : we had foundings from fixteen to twenty-three fathom water. At five in the morning of the ■ i!.H 511 i s - It s i'E i fit*. i%\ lii 326 A VOYAGE TO THE If Mm 1788. the 29th, wc made fail. At eight o'clock Monopin-hill bore Ea(L February, i-a. ^ r 1 , _ _ ^ aJirant fix leagues. This afternoon we committed the body of Mr. Lauder to the 'deep. He was the firft perfon we had loft during the voyage. At noon Monopin-hill bore North 10 degrees Weft, about five leagues diftant : our latitude was 2 degrees 14 minutes South. At one o'clock we faw feveral rocks bearing Eaft South Eaft, four miles diftant, on which we fhortened fail, and hauled our wind to the Eaftward ; the ftrange fail in fight to the North North Weft. We had foundings from eight to fourteen fathom water, over a muddy bottom. At three o'clock we faw the Sumatra ihore, bearing South 40 degrees Eaft j the weather was moderate and hazy, with frequent (howers of rain. At feven o'clock we let go an anchor in eleven fathom water, over a muddy bottom. During the night we had veiy fierce lightning all round the compafs. We here found the tide fetting Eaft South Eaft, at the rate of three knots per hour. At five in the morning of tlie ift of March, we weighed and made fail. During the forenoon we had fqually weather, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. At noon the ftrange fail bore North by Weft, about fix miles diftant, fome high land on the Banca ftiore Eaft North Eaft, and part of the Sumatra ftiore South by Weft, about three miles diftant : we had foundings in twelve fathom water. The afternoon was very fqually, accom- panied with a violent ftorm of thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. At three o'clock we ftiortened fail, and paffed by a Dutch man of war lying at anchor. At five o'clock, the ftrange fail which wc north-west coast of AMERICA. we had fen for feveral days paft, joined us. and proved to be the 1788 Lanfdowne Tndiaman, Captain Storey. At half paft fix o'clock ' ^'^"'^^ we anchored in nine fgthom and a half water, over a muddy bot- tom, the Sumatra fhore bearing South South Weft, four miles diftant. During the night we had conftant fierce lightning, the vi^eather exceeding clofe and fultry. At five in the morning of the 2d, we weighed and made fail in company with the Lanfdowne. The foundings here vary from eight or ten fathom, to lefs than three fathom water, the bottom fand and mud. The wind being light and variable, we hauled to the Northward, r.nd ftood well over to the Sumatra fliore, by which means we got clear of the ihoal water. At fix o'clock the Lanfdowne made a fignal of diftrefs, on which we let go an an- chor m fix fathom and a half water, and hoifted out our whale- boat in order to go to the afliftance of Captain Storey; but our boat was fcarcely in the water before ftie filled. On this we hoifted her in again, and the carpenters gave her a temporary re- pair. At feven o'clock Captain Dixon went in the boat to afiift the Lanfdowne. At three in the morning of the 3d, Captain Dixon returned on board. The Lanfdowne, it feems, had grounded on the fmall : fhoals off Lufepara, but was foon hove off without any damage. At five o'clock we hove ftiort, in order to be ready whenever • Captain Portlock ftiould make the fignal for weighing ; but during the forenoon we had only light airs and intervening calms! . Our latitude at noon was 3 degrees 9 minutes South, the >>•/? pint North 20 deg. Weft, diftant three leagues. Soon after twelve • oc-oc- we v/eighed and made fail 3, the foundings were from ix>ur and 327 i.;i 'i-' y\ :'■ )' ■'■ Li'.' :' I 11' h '■I.J Bi, , fli I 1. il' 32^^ A V O Y A G E T O T H E mS ^"^ ^ '^^^^ *° ^^^ fathom. At four o'clock the Ifland Lufepara bore North 88 deg. Eaft, diftant fix miles, and the extremes of -the land to the Southward, South 65 deg. Weft. At eight o'clock Lufepara bore North 14 deg. Weft. We had foundings in four fathom water, over a muddy bottom. ^ Being clear of the Straights of Banca, we ftood on during the night, the weather cloudy, with conftant lightning. During the forenoon of the 4th, we had foundings from fix to nine fathom water, over a muddy bottom. From this to the 6th we had little variety; the weather was ' extremely clofe and fultry, the thermometer frequently 92 deg. Light bafiiing winds, with intervening calms, frequently obliged us to let go an an- chor. Our latitude at noon on the 6th, was 4 degrees 17 minutes South. At fix o'clock in the afternoon of the 7th, we faw the Sifters, bearing South Weft by Weft, four leagues diftant; foundings eleven fathom over a muddy bottom. At noon on the 8th, the Sifters bore South 40 deg. Weft, fix miles diftant, and the high land on the Sumatra ftiore, South 41 deg. Weftj the latitude 4 ^^S- 55 mi"- South. Soundings from eleven to thirteen fathom water, over a muddy bottom. At fix m the afternoon we came to with the fmall bower in ten fathom water, over a muddy bottom, the Sifters bearing South 17 degrees Weft. During the night we had fome heavy fquails of wind at South South Weft, with much thunder and lightning, and a very heavy fea. At four in the morning of the 9th, we found the veffel dragged her anchor, on which we hove it up and made fail. At eight o'clock the weather moderated, and ^ by NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 3^9 by by ten we had nearly a calm, on which we let go the beft bower 1788. m eleven fathom water; the Sifters bore South 25 degrees Weft ^'^^'^• latitude 4 degrees 57 minutes South. .' ' — ' — ' From this to the 1 2th we had little variety, light baffling winds with intei-venmg calms, obliging us frequently to let go an anchor' fo that we made very little progrefs. " anchoi. So.!?h %l''^ "' ""^"/T ^''''"^' '''' ^ ^^Srees 22 minutes bouth. The extremes of the land in fight bore from South 20 deg. Eaft, to North 20 deg. Weft, diftant from the Sumatra fliore about three miles. This forenoon we had the pleafure to pafs the Sifters, which are two very fmall iflands, and had been in ficht ever fince the 7th. At two o'clock we let go the beft bower in ekven fathom water. During the afternoon, and greateft part of the night, we had iqually weather, with conftant rain. Early in the morning of the 13th, we weighed and made fail The wind growing light, and inclining to calm, at ten o'clock the whale-boat was hoifted out, and fent to tow the veft-el a-head • North Ifland, where we intended to anchor, in order to fill up our water, being right a-head, about eight miles diftant. At eleven o'clock, having no wind, and the tide againft us we let go an anchor nearly oppofite North Illand; our latitude at noon being 5 degrees 35 minutes. A breeze fpringing up about one o'clock, we weighed andftood farther on. By three o'clock, being pretty well into the Roads T t ' ^ * * *• we u v. 1 33< A VOYAGE TO THE We came to with the beft bower, in nine fathom water, over a muddy bottom, mooring the fliip with the large kedge and ftream cable. North IHand" bore North Eaft by North, three miles diftant. In the Roads lay three Dutch veflels belonging to Batavia. At five o'clock in the morning of the 14th, the long-boat was hoifted out and fent on fliore for water. Our people found ex- cellent water on the Sumatra fhore, about five hundred yards from the beach i fo that by noon on the 15th. our water-calks were all filled. We wanted a fmall fupply of wood for firing, but as there were numbers of inhabitants on the Sumatra coaft, we apprehended that cutting wood there might be attended with difficulty ; fo, m the afternoon of the 15th parties were fent from both velTels to cut wood on North ffiand, there being no inha- bitants or other obftrudion to cutting any quantity we wanted. At fix o clock the people returned on board, having procured a Sufficient quamty of fuel, ^u*cu utch fnow had anchored within a mile of us in the evening of the 20th, and Captain Dixon bein"- defirous to procure fonie rice from her, and a few ncccflaries we ll-ooil in nceil of to repair the rigging, the whale-boat was hoilled out this afternoon, and Mr. Carew, our FiiilMate, fent on board i the NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 333 the liMw t„ enquire whether the Dutchman could fupply „s with ,,»8 ^jy^^l thefc ,,art,cuhus, but Mynheer was equally ba" with Tr- ^l At five o'clock in the morning of il,c 2 2,1 we weifihed nnd m .Ic nul. l,u, the wind growing light and variable, anfthe'c ". ent agantft „». we came to a little before noon, with the fn all bower ,,, ,„c„ty.n« fathon, water, over a muddy bottom- th P ak o, C racatoa bearing Weft by South, about fi/c mile, diftant The weather bcu.g «nc an,l caIn, Captain Dixon embrac IhiJ oi.por.u„,ty of lining up our water . and a. one o'clock tl e wh " boat a„.l jolly-boat were hoillcd out. and our Captain took t undson horcfor that purpofe. The boats returned at fix "bck b .ng,ng three puncheons of water, being all the empty calks w^ 1".. Our people ha,l purchafed a good quantity of cocoa-m"' iniiupkiiib tot tiic lame money. Though the inand of Cracatoa is undoubtclly the moll healthy of any one near the lame fit.a.ion. yet I do not find that th e a.e many mhabnants here, anecul,ar to tins place. ,n equal abtmdance, and the watering place IS much more convenient. ' The produce of this place is much the ftme as Sumatra ; fowls cocoa-nuts, pumpkins. &c. A nun.ber of turtles were purchafed lor the ihip s ufc. '■ D unnc: iiii 334 A VOYAGE TO THE 1788. Mardi. t' B^i-il Mm Daring the whole of the 23d we had foutherly winds, which prevented our weighing anchor. We were favoured with Captain Portlock's company on board during the greatell part of the day. At four o'clock in the morning of the 24th we anfwered the King George's iignal for weighing anchor, and by five we weighed and made fail, llanding to the Southward, .with a frefli bieeze at Soutli Welt. Hitlierto we had attempted to get clear of the Straights, by the paflage between Prince's Ifland and Cracatoaj but this was now given up, and it v/as determined to try for the palfage between Prince's Ifland and Java Head. At noon the Peak of Cracatoa bore North 1 8 deg. Weft, the extremes of Prince's Ifland from South 50 deg. Weft to Weft South Weft ; a high point on the Java ftiore bearing South, dif- tance from the ncareft land about five leagues : the latitude was 6 deg. 21 min. South. During the afternoon we made occafional boaids, between Prince's Ifland and Java, a heavy fwell fetting in from the Weft ward : we had foundings from forty-three to thirty- fix fathom, over a muddy bottom. At nine in the evening we let go an anchor m forty-two fathom water, the high land on Prince's Ifland btaiing South 76 deg. Weft. At four o'clock in the morning of the 25th we weighed and niade fail, with a freih Wefterly bieeze and cloudy weather. At nuoji, the extremes of Prince's Ifland bore from Welt North Weft to rSouth 65 deg. -Weft; a bluff point on Java bearing South Weft by Souih, a'oout four leagues diftantj the latitude 6 deg. 33 min. In I lie afternoon the wind hauled to the Southwaid, fo that '.Knd- in^ vve Ia\ ground] at fix o'clock we let go an anchor in forty frxri: n w iter, over a muddy bottom. ? At ii NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 3^5 wl.t^^iT' '" ^t T?'""^ °^ '^' '^*^ ^' ^^^Shed, being favoured ,788. with a ftrong Wefterly breeze, which gave us great hopes of clear- ^^^=^>- mg the land. '-^ — During the forenoon we were employed in working through the fl? ^T" ^".r'^ "='"'' ^""^ J'™ "==<'• At noon, the ex- tremes of Prmce's inand bore from South 6j deg. Weft to North, Java Head South Weft by South, diftanc, off four miles. Ou^ latitude was 6 deg. 36 min. South. anH^^^ r r '''^°'^' ^'^"^ '^S^^' ^" ^^^ P^^^g^ between Java Head and the Coikrs,,, parcel of rocks off Princes Ifland) the breeze failed us. and the current fet us right upon the Java fhore. Our htuation for fome time was very dangerous, as it was impo/Iible for us to wear , and what was ftiU worfe, there is no ground in lefs than fifty fathom water clofein (hore, and that is Iharp rocks, fo hat httle fervice could be expefted from our anchor : however in efs tnan half an hour, to our great joy, the breeze frefhened! and by four m the afternoon we were entirely out of danger the rocks off Java Head bearing North 85 d,g. Eaft, and the peak of Prmce s Ifland North 5 deg, Eaft, five miles dillant from the Java ihore. At fix o'clock, Java Head bore North Eaft by ^"orth dif tant fix leagues. ' Being now clear of the land, our anchors were got on the eun- wales, and fecured. * During the night we had fqually weather, with rain, and in the mornmg of the 27th, a frcfli North Wefterly breeze and cloudy weather: our latitude at noon was 7 deg. 49 min. South. Ii, life , 'f-x' I*:. All 336 1788. Marcii. A VOYAGE TO THE All our wiflies now are for a fpeedy and fafe voyage to St. He- lena i and from thence to Old England, is added by thine ever, Off Java Head, 1 March 27th. J W. B. I LETTER XLVIII. OUR pafTage during the month of March has been the moft tedious, and by far the moft unhealthy of any we have expe- rienced during the voyage, and particularly in palfing the Straights of Banca. The land, both on the Banca and Sumatra coaft, is low, flat and marfliy ; and as wc in general had light winds, the weather was extremely hot and fultry. A faint fickly heat fcized the grcateft part of our people, indeed the ftrongeft on board felt its influence more or lefs : we luckily had a good quantity of Pe- ruvian bark on board, which was regularly given to all the fickly people, and its good effe£ls were foon perceptible ; we alfo had the good fortune not to have the leaft appearance of the fcurvy amongft us. Captain Portlock had loft two of his people with the flux fince our leaving China, and fcvcral more were in a fickly ftatcj how- ever, our getting out to fea raifed every one's fpirits. During NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. During the 28th of March we had a frefli breeze at North Well, with frequent fqualls attended with rain. At five o'clock in the af- ternoon we faw a ftrangc fail to the Northward. In the niglit, and during the forenoon of the 29th, the breeze moderated ; about ten o'clock the ftrange fail being pretty near us, we found her to be the Queen Eaft-Indiaman. Captain Douglas. Our latitude at noon was 10 deg. 17 min. South; and the longitude 255 deg. 8 mill. Weft. During the afternoon, and the whole of the 30th, we had light variable winds, frequently inclinin^ to calm. At eleven in the forenoon, Captain Portlock's boat came on board us, and Captain Dixon went on board the King George j the day was clear and fine, but exceeding fultry, the thermometer being 89 deg. Latitude at noon 11 deg. 13 min. At fix o'clock in the evening Captain Dixon returned on board, and informed us that it was determined for the vefl'els to feparate, each making the quickeft paflage in their power to St. Helena: on this all our people held themfelves in readinefs to falute their fellow voyagers with three cheers at parting, but light baffling winds pre- vented thevefTcls from coming near enough for thatpurpofe. During the 31ft we had a frefii breeze at South Eafl: and Eafl South Laft, and our courfe was North Weft. In tlie forenoon of the ift of April we had entirely loft fight of our con fort : our latitude at noon was 12 deg. 44 min. South ; and the longitude 257 deg. 48 min Weft. 337 1788. March. ^ !• i i I li I From the ift to the 9th we had a frefli Eafterly breeze, the weather rather fqu?lly at times, with rain. Our latitude at noon on the 8th was ly deg. 50 min. South ; and the longitude 271 deg. 16 mm. Weft. Our courfe for fome days paft had been Weft Uu south 338 A VOYAGE TO THE 1788. Southwell-, and Weft by South : we found a heavy fwell from ^'"■''' the Southward. ^ ""^ From the 9th to the i6th we had a conftant frefh Eafterly breeze, the weather rather wet and fqually at times, though in general it was fine and pleafant. Our latitude at noon on the 16th was 20 deg. 48 min. Soutlij and the longitude 284 dcg. 33 min. Weft. In the evening we had a good deal of lightning from the South- ward, and in the night a very heavy fquall attendcd.with rain, the wind at South : towards morning the weather moderated, but the wind ftill blew from the Soutliward. Our latitude at noon on the I /til was 21 deg. 14 min. South i and the longitude 286 deg. 41 min. Well. m .f'ifffl 'Till the aift wc had very little variety, but at two o'clock in the afternoon we had a fquall vvit^ very heavy rain, which Hiifted the wind to the Northvvaad, fon-etimcs blowing a frefli breeze, and frequently light, inclining to calm : in the forenoon of the 22d the wind again flufted to the Southvard, the weather mode-^ rate and cloudy. Oiu* latitude at noon was 23 deg. 9 min. South; and the longitude 2 98 iIcq. 20 min. Welt. At (ivc o'clock in the afternoon of the 23(1, being then ftecring Wert, wiiii the \vind at South and by Welt, we iiiw two ftrangc lail in the South Eaft quarter, ftanding North Eall. On the 24th the fliip's company were put to an allowance of two quarts of water a man per day, exclulive of what was ufed for peafe. Our latitude at noon was 23 deg. 27 min. South j and the longitude NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 339 longitude 300 (leg. 22 min. Weft; a heavy fwell fetting in from ,788 the Soutliward. Ma/. From this to the 30th no particular occurrence happened • we were ft.ll favoured with a pretty fteady Eafteriy breeze, and the weather in general fine and pleafant. Our latitude at noon on the 30th was 28 deg. 9 min. South; and the longitude 310 deg. 30 mm. Weft. The v.uiation of the compafs is here 21 deg. Weft- crly. On the I ft of May the wind fliifted to the NortWard and Weft- ward; indeed being now in 28 deg. 55 min. South latitude, we had reaion to expeft the trade-winds would leave us, efpecially at this leafon of the year. In tlie morning of the 4th of May we had vaft quantities of bonctta about the fliip ; our hooks and lines were prefcntly put overboard, and we had tolerable fuccefs : thefe bonetta proved an excellent dilh for us, and were a moft a :reeal)le variety at this time, as our fait provifions began to grow old, ai^d confequently unwholefbmc, though as yet we had not (thank God) any apl ptaraace of the Icurvy amongft us, which pf^;haps might in lome mtafure be owing to the bark before-mentioned, the ule of which was not entuely difcontinued. We had alfo a vaft number of gulls, egg-birds, flieer-waters, ficc. about theveHel: I judge thefe birds and fi{li are drawn hitlier byaipecics oi v\\e fardinc, great numbers of which wc faw in the vvatv-r, and generally found lumc in the filhes we caught. 'Tis very probable they are on their paffige to Ibme particular ipot. Ouv ^ " 2 latitude It J 1 . Ir! ii'^ ■m, it '%- \ 1.' h i (iii; 340 1788. May. Hi A VOYAGE TO THE latitude at nopn was 28 deg. 8 miu. and the longitude 3i6deg.. 44 min. Weft. From this to the 7th we had Southerly winds and moderate weather: the latitude at noon was 30 deg. 11 min. South; and the longitude 321 deg. 58 min. Weft. In the afternoon the wind blew frefti from the Eaftward, and the former part of the night was fqually, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain, which caufed us to double-reef the topfails and reef the mainfail j under this fail we thought ourfclves well fecured for the night, but about two o'clock in the morning of the 8th, a moft violent fquall took lis from the South Weft ; on which we handed the topfails, and providentially received no damage : by day-light the weather grew more moderate ; the wind ftill to the Southward. Our latitude at noon was 30 deg. 54 min. South. I li In the forenoon of the 9th we had a ftrong breeze at Nortli^ Eaft, and towards the evening the wind hauled to the Northward, ftill blowing very frefli -^ in the evening it lightened very much to the South Weft, which caufed us to clofe-reef the topfails, re- membering the fevcre Iquall we fo lately met with ; fortunately, however, the night continued moderate, and the loth and nth we had light Southerly winds, and fine weather. Our latitude at noon on the nth was 32 deg, 45 min. South; and the longitude by lunar obfervations, 327 deg. 6 min. Weft.. During the 12th and 13th the wind blew frcfh at North Eaft;. the weather tolerably fine. Our latitude at noon on the 13th was 34 deg.. 22 mill. South, During NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. During the 14th, and greateft part of the 15th, we had little variety, the wind and weather being nearly the fame as on the preceding days, with a heavy fwell from the Weftward. In the afternoon of the 15th the weather grew hazy, and the wind vari- able, with a lowering threatening Iky; about feven o'clock the wmd fettled at North Weft, and blew a ftrong gale, on which w» . clofe-reefed the topfails, reefed the mainfail, and fent down the top gallant yards. At eight o'clock we wore and flood to the Eaftward. During the former part of the night we had a good deal of lightning from the Northward. At two o'clock in tlie morning of the i6th, we again wore and ftood to the Weftward • the gale ftill incrcafing, at fix o'clock we reefed the forefail and handed the topfails. In the forenoon the top-gallant mafts were ftruck, and the jibb-boom got in. Our latitude at noon was 36 deg. 10 min. South, the gale ftill continuing with unceafing violence, attended with frequent fqualls, and an exceeding heavy Wefterly fwell. ^ ^ At four o'clock in the afternoon we found the pumps choaked up. This, in our prefent fituation, was a moft unfortunate cir- cumftance, and more particularly, as the veffel, when on the ftar- board tack, made a good deal of water : however, the ftarboard pump was immediately hoifted up, and, on examination, found choaked with fand, which had been ufed as a flooring for the teas, and which, no doubt, the prefent tempeftuous weather had occa- fioned to work through the ceiling. The pump being cleared, nine inches w( .e cut from the bottom, and it was immediately got • down again. The fhip's company had been for fome time at an allowance of water, as before mentioned ; but the weather being now too ftormy to 34* :1; I; W I, |r 1 . /). A VOYAGE TO THE J:vt- irk m 1788. to have it fcrved out, every perfon helped himfclf to what he ^J'^l^ , wanted, as ufual. During the night the gale ftill continued with unceafing vio- lence. At fix o'clock in the morning of the J7th, the main ftay- lail fhcet gave way, and the fail blew to pieces in a moment : at fcven o'clock the Itarboard pump again choakcd, on which it was got up, cleared of the fand, and immediately put down again. There being great reafon to fuppofe that all the water which the veflel made, did not find its way to the pumps, but was flopped in the fore part of the fliip by the fand. Captain Dixon came to a determination with the advice of his Officers) to open the f)re- liold, in order to examine that part : at eight o'clock the fore- hatch was broke open, and about forty chefts of tea taken out of the hold: the tea was found dry, and in very good order, and (to our jfreat fatisfaclion; there was not the leatl appearance of any waier being lodged in tiiis part of the vellel. At eleven o'clock we hoifted up the larboard pump, and cleared it of fand, but it it was not put down again, as we v\ ere obliged to keep a perlbn conftantly in the pump- well to clear it of fand, which was liandcd up in buckets, and if not conftantly attended, prefently choakcd the pump. The 2;ale continued during the afternoon w'th unabating vio- lence, the vetJl: iibouied very hard, and made a great deal of water, '.'o tliut it lequircd every exertion to keep the pump-well cleiu' of fand. Hitherto NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. Hitherto our people had been in three watches ; but the tempef tuous weather, together with the unlucky accident of our pumps choaking up, requiring a conflant and unremitting attendance Captam Dixon judged proper to put the Hiip's company to watcli and watch. j / * In the night, the gale rather abated ; and about feven o'clock in the mormng of the i8th, the weather grew moderate, with lidit wmds, and a very heavy fea from the Southward, on which we let the topfails, clofe-recfcd. About 8 o'clock, found a leak under the counter, on which we got up a number of articles that were flowed in the run, (bcinir m a manner ufelefs to us) and hove them overboard ; our obVerva tion at noon gave 36 deg. 30 min. South latitude. Durin- the af- n,Tnoon vye had light airs inclining to calm, a very bcavy'crofs fea Ihll runnmg, which caufcd the veffel to ftrain and labour exceed- ingly : at eight m the evening a frcfli breeze fprung up from the Northward and in the night it increafed ta a gale, a heavy fea . Itill fettuig from the Southward. In the morning of the 19th, we had a frerti gale at North Wcfl with frequent fqiullsj the pump-well ftill required conftant atten- ' dance, for tlie labouring of the fliip caulbd the fand continually to ■ work through tlic ceiling, and it was of the utnioft confcqiicncc to keep the well clear, as by that means, the water was j^revented from lodging in any other part of the vcnil. Our latitude at noon was 37 deg. 36 min. South ; and the longitude 336 dcg. 50 min. Wed:, but the longitude could not hy any mean3"'i>e depended upon , it was evident by our latitude of to-day, that there was a flrong current letting to tiic Southward, and it was very unceitain 3 w!iei!\cr 343 m 544 178R. Mav. im i A VOYAGE TO THE whether or no it did not fet us to the E.iftward at the fame time ; however, Captain Dixon determined at all events to ftand to the Northward, the wind blowing frefl\ at North Weft. This after- noon our powder was found to be loofe and damaged, on which four barrels were thrown overboard, rcferving only as much as we mi^ht poUibly want for fignals or other temporary purpofes. From this till noon on the 20th, we had very little alteration; the wind ftill blew frcfh at North Weft whh frequent fqualls; our latitude was 36 dcg. ^j min. South. As we had made nearly a North courfe for the laft twenty-four hours, this obfervation confirmed our opinion of a Southerly current, but whether to the E aft ward or Weft ward, it was not ealy to determine, though we had fome reafon to think it fet about South South Eaft. In the afternoon, the wind fliifted to the Wcftward, and during the night it changed to South and South Eaft, but grew light as it came from the Southward. Early in the morning of the 21ft, we had a frefli breeze at Eaft North Eaft, on which we fet all the (a\\ we could, being glad to embrace every opportunity of getting to the Northward and Weft ward. Our latitude at noon was 36 deg. 40 min. and the longitude 337 deg. 20 min. Weft. In the afternoon the breeze freflicncd, and the wind hauled to the Northward towards evening, blowing very hard with frequent heavy fqualls, which caufed us to hand the topl'ails and reef the courfes. Towards morning on the 2 2d, the weather grew more moderate, and at day-light we made fail, ftill ftanding to the Northward, the weather hazy with rain; our latitude at noon was 36 deg. South. The forenoon of the 23d was very fqually, attended with rain; on wliich we clofc-re^;ied the topfails, and ftruck top-gallant mafts i NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. marts : about ten o'clock we were taken with a moft violent fquail but as we had timely taken in fail, it fortunately did us no other damage than fplitting our foie ftay-fail. Our obfervation at noon gave 35 deg. 48 min. South latitude. In the afternoon the weather grew moi-e fettled, the wind ftill hanging to the North Weft. Our pump-well ftill required clofc attendance, a good quantity of fand conftantly working into it. At three o'clock in the morning of the 24th, we founded with fe- venty fathom line over a foft bottom, which Ihewed that we were on the banks of Lagullus, on which we wore Hiip, the wind light and variable. At day-light, the weather being pretty moderate, wc made fail; at kven o'clock we fawa large fliip bearing North Eaft, and ftanding to the . Northward. Our latitude at noon was 3 c deg. 36 min. South. I fhould obferve that ever fince the bad weather came on, the wind had been generally at North Weft, and that whenever it fliifted to the Southward or Eaftward, it grew light and very variable. This had occafioned us to wear as often as wtis judged confiftent with our getting to the Weftward, and it is probable that the current already mentioned had in fome meafure retarded our progrefs. During the afternoon and night we had ftrong North Wefterly breezes and fqually weather, which kept us under an eafy fail, and we made occafional boards as fuited our conveniency. At day-light In the morning of the 25th, the weather being moderate, we made fail, the wind ftill hanging at North Weft. X X About 1 34* W! 1788. May. A VOYAGE TO THE About eight o'clock the veflcl we had fcen on the 24th came w.thin hail and fpoke us. She proved to be the Lnrifdownc, Cao- tam Storey, who, as has been already mentioned, got a-^nound in the Straights of Banca, but got clear of the Straights of Sunda a week before us. As this velFcl is elkcmed a prime failcr. it can- not be denied but that the fight of her at this time infufcd fre(h fpn-its nito every perfon on board, efpecially when we compared our bad fading velld to her, and found that with all her boafted fuperiority, and the time flie had before gained on us, we were yet on a par in regard to the voyage. This incident brought that obfervation of Solomon frcfh into my memory, " T/x race is not tothefwift;' C^c. for we here had an incontcflible proof, that " time and chance happeneth to all." Captain Storey informed us, that he had been beating about the Cape ever fmce the 15th, which was the fame time we met v/ith the gale, but did not affign any reafon for his not getting here fooner. Our obfei-vation at noon gave 35 deg. 32 min. South latitude; and the mean of fome lunar obfervations 337 deg. 48 min. Well longitude. On the 26th, the wind continuing at North Weft, our Cap- tain determined to ftand to the Soutli Weft, hoping to meet with a change of wind : the weather being now modern e, ^nd tolerably fettled, the people were put to their former allowance of water. Our latitude at noon was 36 i\Qg. 17 min. South. In the night the wind Ihifted to North North Eaft, and in the forenoon of the 27th, increafed to a fiefli breeze, on whi-h we fet all the fail we cculd carry, and ftcrre! North Weft by \ ft : our latitude at noon was 36 dcg. 12 :un. South, and the longitude 339 deg. 39 mm. Weil : we were cieftincu to enjoy this favourable breeze but a . fhort NORTH-WEST COAST OK AMERICA. «™.g «a,c. whicl. continued .„ nig,,. „„, unlXgv il .he ven- ; .: .i'b:'u;t;z'i"'' " '"'^ ""' '■^''' ^'""' "«"•-' f' "•••I y. wnl, ,a,„, the wind ftill at North Weft a? t oclock ,„ the evening, to our great joy Tfreft tl. * ' at South VVfft nn,i I • . . ^^' ^" sale came on North wi/r ;th W /;T* aTtXr "' '''''' ti>«e being about two points Weft:,; 'v^i'^otf ^^^ °"'' ''"'■'"''• i.addoub:ertLru.i:^rt™tLc;::7;rv°"""°r="'''^ .South Weft point of iand in 34 g ^5'min I^"? I?'^""" "" 3+' Jcg. .^7 nm., Wert Io„giu,de. ''"""'=' '""' ^"^ liliall 347 1788. May. 348 1788. May. A VOYAGE TO THE 1 fliall lay down the pen at prefent, but, if Providence per- mit, thou flialt have a continuation from P- ^h Thine, Sec. W.B, At Sea. 7 May 31ft. 5 LETTER XLIX. HAVING reafon to think that there was a current fetting: ftrongly to the Wellward, in the afternoon of the 31ft of May, we hauled by the wind, fteciing North and North by Eaft. On the 1 ft of June, we had a fine breeze at Eaft, with clear fettled weather, our latitude at noon was 32 dcg. 4 min. South. The pump-well having for fomc time been pretty clear of fand, the flarboard pump was got into its place, but fo fixed that it could be got up with eafe from time to time, as occafion required. The weather, during the time we were doubling this Southern promontory, had not been fo fevercly cold as wc were taught to expeft, the mean of the thermometer being aboui 54 deg. though this mildnefs probably has been occafioned by the wind fcidoni. blowing from the Southward for any length of time. From^ NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA. From the ift, to the 3d of June, we were favoured with afrefli breeze from the Eaftward and Southward. Our latitude at noon on the 3d, was 29 deg. 54 min. South ; in the afternoon the wind fliifted to North North Weft, blowing frefh with frequent fqualls : as we yet depended on a Wefterly current, v\^e fteered North Eaft, and Eaft North Eaft, as the wind permitted. In the morning of the 6th, the wind gradually fliifted to the Weftward and Southward, which proved very fortunate, for the mean of feveral fets of lunar obfervations taken on the 6th: our latitude (being then 27 deg. 17 min. South) gave only 346 deg. 24 min. Weft longitude. This plainly Ihewed that our depending on a current fetting to the Vv^eftward was extremely fallacious, and that in fad, we had met with nothing of the kind. The weather now grew moderate and fettled, with a fine ftcady breeze at South South Eaft. Though the vefTel had now very little motion, yet we frequent- ly got up the ftarboard pump, and always found a quantity of fand in the well. On the 9th, our allowance of water was increafcd to five pints per day, and the people were again put into tliree watches. Our latitude at noon was 23 deg. 44 min. South j and the longitude 352 deg. 5 min. Well. From this to the 14th, nothing particular occurred. Oar la- titude at noun was 17 deg. 6 min. South, and the longitude' up- wards of 360 deg. Weft, ib that we hail completely circumnavigated the Gioi>e; on which account, havimr loft a day in our reckonint--. we borrowed a d; -^ebo/y, .y; calling this (inftead of the 14th) Sunday tU 34p r 'S; 11' iillC, Noth iUl 35^ V i* A VOYAGE TO THE Nothing matci ial happened from this to the iSth : we kept Oancling f6r St. Helena, witli a freHi South Ealkrly 1>reeze and fine weather. Tliis ifland is placed in the charts in 15 deg. 55 min. Soutli latitude, and 5 deg. 49 Weft longitude. At half paft three o'clock in the momingof the 18th, we faw St. Helena, bear- ing North Weft'about fix leagues diftant: at fix o'clock the whale-boat was hoifted out, and Mr. White fent on fliore with difpatches to the Governor, On ftandhig into the road we had foundings from twenty-nine to nineteen fathoms water, over a muddy bottom. At eleven o'clock we anchored with the beft bower in nineteen fathom water; the extreme of the illancl bore from North 71 ikg. Eaft to 5outh 65 deg. Weft: the church South 6 deg. Weft. We had the pleafure of finding our confort the King George here, and every perlbn on board in good health. Many of Captain Portlock's pcoj^le had been ill of the fcurvy, fincc they parted from us ; but by a regular ufe of the various antifcorbutics, which he hatl on board, their health was pretty well re-eftabliflied before he arrived at St. Helena. In doubling the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Portlock kept much nearer the land than we had done, and had not fo long a continuance of bad weathci", fo that he arrived here iix days before us, and having compleated his water, 8cc. he intended to have failed this morning, but on our arrival he deferred it till the morrow. Bcfides the King George, we found here, the Lanfdowne, Cap- tain NORTH-WEST COAST OP AMERICA. tain Storey, tlie Que.n, Captain Douglas, three other Eaft India flups, and a Tufcan vefTcl. On the ,9,1,, „e received three quarters of frefl. beef whirl, was all t!:at could |,oJlihly be /mred us • tn „,!], J , ever for this ,;,./„•, ^'P^'^aus. to make amends how- i^->cr,y ,,4.;:!;';,:r;l'^:^^^^^^^ James-Tow„borcSouU.4o ; • ;,i ^"""^ "','/'" ^-""■ Pafl;«e fron, St. Helena to ,h?,V 'J 1 " ''i'*"^! '''"■^"•- "- ccpt that aho,.t the ,.,!,„,,, ^ ,"V;;;:„:t,J'"^; /'"":';'-,.7- ^anabU; winds -nul r'nf. r i ' ^''' '" ""^'^ ''^^'^t ".c ^-e time c'r,: "r ^i;™ '^r ^ -r 't-"- ^^ c"".eo„ ho.,,) i.,f„,,„ „,/„,„rc ,,;t ,'';;■ '■:'"' *""" '^j^'^ nvcr about a for„,igi,t a.^o all I,; '* "' ■'•^^■' "' 'I'e I hope vc-ry Ihortly t° ha':! .. , '""' ^ '" £°'"l '-'''!'■ As t^lv pica I j; Oi ij.-in:-- tiic: 35f 'I if vni 352 NORTH-WEST COAST OF AMERICA; conclude my narrative, with returning my grateful thanks to that kind Providence which has fafely conduced us to our native country, after a long and tedious voyage. Off Dover, > Sept. 17th. J rw tJt"' APPEN-: to that native PEN-i .£, 'H ^^^^H' ^^^^^^H, ^^^^^^E ^ ■I If II If 't'K,ip!!t cha,ul anhalf long, pretty n.uch bent, and (harp at fhe tip > the no tal, covered with a membrane : tongue divided irto threads at the end: the general colour of the plumage i'l^Ty black: the eathers about the he.,d and throat La andpom ted beneath each wtng ,s a large tuft of yellow feathers, which 1 not appear when the w.ng i. dofed : on the vent is another patch of he fa„,e co.our : the tail is g.eatly cur.eated> the two mid dk fea hers are feveu tnches in length, and the oute. ones only ,0 nches, both the outer leathers are whue on the outer webs and t.ps. the others black, the ends are pointed : the legs a," b a k the outer and middle toes connetted to the firlV joint. " thl' I^f V t "'' "","':'' '" P'""y " ''-^''^ ^"' »<< others of . e Sa„d^,ch IJl. , a, wh.ch place the natives catch the birds alive and, after pluclung out the yello.v feathers, give then, then U betty agatn, m.ak.ng ult of the feathers in their various ornanen s and drelTes ; beautdul fpecimens of which may be feen tn e Lc'cmwt Mujuunr • 1 ^ "-i-n m the Thus far Mr. Latham j t,^ ,■,!,;,,, j ^^^^ ,,„, y^^ the fpecimeii trom which the rty to add, that annexed engraving was made, dif- ferred I 357 11^- li 3^^ APPENDIX. No. I. ferred from that defcribed by him in liaving all the tail feathers rpottcd witli white at tlie ends ; probably his was either a hen or a young bn-d. The flzc is a little reduced in thc^ngravmg, in order to get it vvithm the compafs of the plate. WHITE WINGED CROSS-BII.L. Latham's Synopfis, vol. iii, p. io8. No. 2 - The fize of a goldfinch : the bill is of a dulky horn colour - noftnls covered with briftles of a pale buff colour ; at the bafe of the bill, from eye to eye, a ftreak of brown : the feathers on the head, neck, back, and under parts, are whitifli, deeply margined with cnmfon ; and, as fome parts of the white appears not fully covered with the crimfon, gives the bird a mottled appearance • the rump is pale crimfon : the vent dirty white : the wing is black marked with a bar of white fr^m the fiioulder, paffing obliquely backwards, and a fecond bar, or rather fpot, of the fame below that, but only the inner half: the fecond quills are each of them tipped with white : the tail black : legs brown. " I have received this both from Hiuifons-Bay and New-Torkr ^ The biid I have figured differs from Mr. Latham's in fome par- ticulars; it wants the crimfon colour, and the brown bar between the eyes, fo that it is certainly a hen, differing from the cock ex- aClly as in the common crofs-bill kind. Mine was fliot at Montague-IJland, on the North-Wefi Coafi of America, PATA- Ill Ufl l'i'l'li'll',1 .u Iht.l.i.lim-/,/.,, ,;,l,rlli.,on.l)n:;o^l ;"/«. /;.«..,#,.•■,;,, y 11 |?i ■ B» •■ i' *l .,F t'. :i ;j ^J^^f*^ r m I H'i.fm'n li/h't. itauDiiian \\arbUT.//Vv.. /;////m/. //w/.A. Z„//.,«.v S,,„./,.u:<.lU.i./'.m-^'"'^^' nMM.,l.„l/u.Ul ,/m,;.' fy <\tr''>i.y.K Mr.' l.lJBi). )m A PP E N D I X. No. r. , PATAGONIAN WARBLER, Latbanis SynopfiSy vol. iv. p. 434. No, 26. ' " This Is a large fpccies : length nine inches : bill one inch and a quarter, a little bent at the tip ; colour black, with cinereous edges : the upper part of the body, and tail, cinereous j beneath paler, marked with white ftreaks i chin and throat white : over the eye a ftreak of the fame : the wings dark ath colour, marked with pale brown, and a bar of the fame acrofs the coverts * the quills have brown edges : outer tail feathers white : legs black :. toes long : hind toe and claw long and flout. The female, or what is fuppofcd fuch, has fewer ftreaks of white on the breaft. " Inhabits Terra del Fuego. Met with on the fea-beach, and is' fuppofcd to live on fjcll-jijh or fea-worms. " It is apt to vary both in fize and length of bill,"- Mr. Latham is of opinion, that the bird I have figured is the fci/uile. It differs from the above account in being cinereous throughout, except the throat, which is dirty-white, fpotted with a cinereous colour, and that it is a native of Falkland's IJles. • JOCOSE SHRIKE. Lathams Synopjis, vol. i. p. iJ^.^Ldnius jccofus Linnctl Syjlema^ Nat lira, i. p. 138. " Size of a Lark : length feven inches and a half. The bill is blackifli, rather ftraighter than in moft of the genus, and fur- nifhed only with a very fine notch near the tip : the crown of the head is black, except fome long brown-black feathers, which form a creft : 359 . i;U ■ S<5« A P P E N D I r. Na. J. :a crcf! : Hcles of the head, throat, and forepart of tlie nccfe. ^hite : from each corner of the mouth is a black line, contin,^ backwards : under each eye is a fmallfpot of lively red : the upper Z 1'^.^ '' "^ Tu"^ '" under parts dirty-white^f:: led . on the lower part of the neek and breaft a kind of a browa band : quills brown : th« tail is much cuneiform in flupe; in co- our brown, but the four outer feathers on each Hde hav; white tips : legs and claws black. I had a pair of thefe birds, which I bought In Canton, andkept ahve t;n I got off the Cape of Geo J Hope. They would eat rice, but were fondeft of Cockroaches, with which I principally fed tLem. I beheve their death was owing to negleft, occafioned by the bad weather we experienced at that time. it f J- ,'» J- !•'> i 't, tf, L'/nin i/i-h'ti , Laniui Jocofus. /,(ii.Si/.il. Xai . /'. 138. X'l . tlocoCe Slii'ike,//'yi/// ^\\{\\:\. Lulliniii s Suiio/i.{i.i. I'. Ij It , /•..ll'i'/'/.v//.. m n i APPENDIX. No. II. TABLES of the ROUTE of the KING GEORGE and QUEEN CHARLOTTE, the Variation of the Compafs, and Meteorological Obfervations during the Voyage. T N. B. In tlicfe Tables, the Situation of the Ships at Noon is fet down, and the Variation, as oblerved fome Time the fame Day. » TABLE I. From St. Jago to Falkland's Iflands, Time. Latitude North. 178;. o«a. 29? Noon, i ' 14 48 30 13 20 3' " 34 Nov. I 10 06 2 8 46 3 8 00 4 7 42 5 V 3" C 7 >4 Loneitude W«ft. Variations Weft. 23 06 22 40 22 15 22 14 22 05 21 52 '2% 02 22 00 9 20 10 16 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. « . , 1 1 02 8 iJL S North Eaft. Moderate wind, and cloudy 2 1 weather. 80^ E. b. S. Moderate and clear. 80 From E. to E. b. N. Ditto. g J ( Eaft. Pleafant weathex j at night, light- ( ning. Q ^E. S. E. Moderate and cloudy, with ^3 I ditto. 82 j Variable and fqually. g (Ditto, with thunder, lightning, and ^ ( rain, 84 I Variable and fqually, with rain. g^ (Ditto, with thunder, lightning, and ( rain. AFP EN DFX, No. 11. '•'I TABLE I. Continued. ' Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from St. Jago to Falkknd's Iflands. Time. Nov. 7, Noon. 'A ■ ml fsis 8 9 10 II 12 13 *5 16 17 lb ^9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Latitude North. Longitude Weft, Voon. ) Latitude South. lO Longitude Weft. 49 2748 3S 2848 37 2949 18 3050 31 3150 04 1786. Jan. 150 34 50 40 51 02 51 10 51 12 Variations Eatt. 52 ss 53 26 54 42 55 52 55 SS 56 50 57 10 58 00 58 49 59 40 59 54 ? Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 19 26 j_5W. S. W. A frefli breeze, with rain ^9ir^ at times. Variable. A frefh gale, and cloudy. Some whales in fight. Weft to South. Thick fqually wea- ther. Variable. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. A heavy head fea. 47 47 5^ 49i 45 48 . 50 52 52 Ditto. Squally cloudy weather. Variable. Heavy Tqualls, with hail. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and thick hazy weather. Great numbers ot feals and penguins round the fhip. At three A. M. faw the land S. E. b. S. to S. b. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy, wind variable. Variable. Light winds, and cloutly, with rain. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. At eleven o'clock this day came to an- chor in Port Egmont. N. B. The mean of the Thermome- ter, when among thefe ifliuids, 54 degrees. |;f APPENDIX. No. II. TABLE II. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. ,.'786. Jan. 23,] Noon. J 24 25 26 27 Latitude South, 51 3S 52 40 53 39 54 5' 29 30 31 Feb. i .2 3 4 2855 28 56 00 56 48 Longitude Wlft. 57 52 58 7 58 09 59 24 60 14 59 21 6j6o 05 760 15 8 59 44 60 54 6a 49 63 39 64 29 63 40 63 19 62 39 62 19 62 20 63 40 64 55 66 13 67 30 67 18 69 35 71 30 71 50 Variations Eatt. 25 00 5^ g Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 25 36 26 10 54 S3 50 51 50 47 43 43 44 43 43 45 43 42 44 45i r South. Light winds, and fine weather. J New Ifland in fight, S. E. Diflant [ three leagues. ^ N. W. Frefh breezes and cloudy. No ( land in fight. (Ditto. Light breezes, and foggy. { W. S. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. ( Seals and penguins round the fliip. ("Variable. Strong gales, and fqually, J with lightning to the S. W. Staten's 1 Land, W. S. W. Diilant fix or 1^ eight miles. ( S. S. W. Strong gales, and fqually. A ■> heavy fea. Variable. Ditto, ditto. Weft. Frefti gales, and hazy. S. W. to N. W. Moderate and hazy. A heavy fea. W. N. W. to S. S. E. A frefti breeze, and hazy. Variable. A frefti breeze, and cloudy. \ Ditto. Frefti gales, and fqually, with I rain. ^N. N.W. toS.W. b. W. Strong gales. ( and a heavy fea from the weft ward, j Variable. Frefti gales, and cloudy. ( W. b. N. Frelli breezes, and fine w:ea- l ther. ^ Variable. Ditto, with rain, A Jicavv I fwcli from the S. W. ( Ditto. Frelli breezes, and fqually, with ( rain. 6 APPENDIX. No. It. 6 'J ml Hm TABLE II. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Feb. o Noon. Latitude South. 59 09 58 02 56 32 1256 37 10 1 1 March 13 14 15 16 17 18 ^9 20 2,1 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 I 2 56 55 56 56 55 55 55 55 55 54 53 53 53 52 52 52 51 50 48 3 414''^ 5 45 46 19 1 I 56 31 2S 26 40 05 12 I 49 14 14 56 16 -51 Longitude Weft. 52 36 73 13 73 44 75 09 75 37 77 52 79 47 80 51 81 10 82 19 82 30 82 49 83 18 81 81 81 82 83 84 82 43 ^4 34 84 42 S3 41 82 39 82 43 80 54 54 40 52 12 34 50 Variations Eaft. 27 14 28 35 26 20 Winids, Weather, and Remarks. 44 40 ^ 42 I 44il 46 \ 45 45 44-j 46 46 45 44i 45 46 47 47 47i 48 47 46 a8 T ' 50 51 ^ Variable. Frefli breezes. A heavy fv^ll I from S. W. ( South to W. S. W. Strong breezes, and ( fnow. I S. W. Strong gales, with hail. (S.S.W. toW. N. W. Freih breezes, I and cloudy. J N . W. Frelh breezes, and fqually , with ( rain. I S. W. Moderate and cloudy. W. N. W. Ditto, ditto, faw fome feals. W. b. S. Light winds, and cloudy. W. to S. W. b. S. Ditto, ditto. \V. toW. b. N. Squally, with rain. { Weft. Frefli breezes, and cloudy, with (' rain. Variable. Strong gales, andfqually. Weft. Ditto, ditto. Ditto. Frclh breezes, and clear. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. W. N, W. Frefli gales, and hazy. N.W. Strong gales, and hazy. Weft. Heavy gales, and fqually. N. W. Strong gales, and cloudy. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and clear. N. N. W. Squally, and cloudy. W. N W. Ditto, with hail. Weft. Squally, with rain. W. N.W. Frclh gales, and hazy, with rain. Weft. Frefli and clear. APPENDIX. No. IL TABLE II. Continued. Route of the King George and. Queen Charlotte from Falkland' lilands to tlie Sandwich Iflands. Time. 17S6. March 6 Noon. ' Latitude South. 45 44 44 944 1043 II 12 13 14 15 16 43 43 '43 42 42 09 13 44 '1 24 10 26 07 46 04 Longitude Weft. 40 35 739 18 19 20 21 37 36 58 36 5 36 36 22135 34 12 10 23 34 08 24 Z3 25 25 32 27 26 27 28 31 30 29 48 46 21 81 Si 81 40 81 43 82 56 82 37 83 04 83 15 8451 84 43 85 16 S6 07 87 15 88 30 88 44 89 00 89 01 89 35 90 52 91 30 02 40 Variations Eaft, 13 50 94 95 IL ID 35 35 3 52 53 SS\ 56 53 57 56^ 58 57 58 5ii 57 60 59i 61 62 62i 64I 65 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 67 70 73 I W. S. W, Light breezes, and hazy. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. W. N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. A fwell from the N. W. W. S.W. Hardfqualls. W. N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. W. S. W. Moderate and cloudy, with lightning. Variable. Hazy, with rain. N. N. W. Ditto, ditto. Variable. Foggy, with rain. I Ditto. A frclh gale, and hazy. (S. S. W. Ditto, ditto. A fwell from ' the S.W. I ^ Weft. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. Variable. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fwell from the S. W. S. S. W. to S. S. E, Light breezes, and cloudy. S. S. W. Ditto, ditto, and fine wea- ther. W. S. W. Light winds, and cloudy. W. b. S. Moderate, ditto, ditto, S. b. W. Ditto, ditto. S. S. W. to S. S. E. Moderate and cloudy, with rain. Eafl. Light winds, and cloudy. Saw a Hiil to the N. W, but did not fpcak her. E. S. E. Moderate and clear. S. E. to Eafl. A fine breeze, and clear. EalL Frelh breezes, and cloudy. APPENDIX. No. n. I! ' J a ■»• i m TABLE II. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Falkland's Iflands to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 17K6. Mar. 29 1 Noon. ) 30 31 April I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II 12 »3 H 15 16 r 1 19 20 21 22 23 Latitude South. 28 02 26 23 21 20 19 18 17 17 16 15 15 13 12 10 8 7 39 08 28 46 27 19 07 32 21 47 59 03 S3 14 22 44 05 5 17 3 I 09 27 Longitude Variations Eaft. 00^ 05 North. 1 19 2 •?< 3 4 37: 34 6 5 9« 33 00 02 00 51 02 08 03 34 04 48 05 00 06 31 07 09 07 23 08 00 08 43 09 30 10 00 11 II 12 09 12 54 13 40 14 45 15 38 16 10 16 00 16 24 16 30 5 16 40 17 23 00 3 44 4 27 00 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 30 7ii 471^48 -t'iaB 20 2559 12I147 3 2658 26I146 39 27 <;q 00' 1 45 4328 T Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 57 i 54 58 571 54 59 Variable. Light airs. The Sugar Loaf on one of the barren illands bearing S. W. diilant three leagues. Cape Elizabeth W. -% N. fevcn or eight , miles. [ W. S. W. to W. b. N. Moderate breezes, and thick weather. Variable. Thick, hazy weather. N. W. b. N. to W. S. W. Light winds. \ and hazy. Sounded in 52 fathoms. Small ftones and fhells. Variable. Light winds. Saw the land N. b. E. ^'E. diftant three or four miles. S. S. W. Light winds, and hazy. At anchor off the S. W. end of Montague Ifle in 43 f^ithoms. Variable. ^Light winds. At half part fix weighed and made lliil, the land N. E. b. N. diibnt fevcn or eight y miles. 57J- 1 Eaft to N. E. Squally, with rain. ^(N.E. Frcih breezes, and thick rainy 55 i weather. 53^ j Ditto. Ditto, fqually, and a heavy fea. ' ( Ditto. Strong gales and cloudy, with 53 ^ Yw'in. Eaft. Moderate. Saw Montague Idand C2 54t 571 N. W V,7 fiV e or ih: leagues I Variable. Light breezes, and toggy E. N. E. Light winds , and cloudy Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. appendix:. No. ii. 15 TABLE V. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Titnc, 1786. Noon. ) 29 31 Sept, 1 bouth.' 5» 5« 5« 5« 758 »57 10 1 1 57 56 1.3 H 6 56 Longitude WelJ. 59 09145 17 '3 28 27 54 49! 32 »5 26, 05| is, 57 53 50 57 06 1557 ^3' 1656 50I 1755 '5' 1853 4^' Variationi. Eall. 45 47 44 43 42 40 39 39 3^ 3« 37 37 38 37 37 36 36 42 49 10 44 08 03 44 36 4824 12 00 42 07 39 41 36 09 36 36 36 23 10 14 33 53 00 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 58 SS 54 53^ 54 S3 S3i S3i 54 53i S3 S3 54 54 52^- S3V 52 52-1^ 58 504 M. E. Frefli breezes, and fqually. Saw the land bearing W. ^ N. diftant 11 [ or 12 miles. C E. N. E. Frefh breezes, and hazy. A j heavy head fea. Variable. Frcfli breezes, with rain. Ditto. Light winds, and cloudy. S. E. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. . Variable. Frcfli breezes and I'qually, with rain. North to S. W. b. S. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fvvcll from the Eaftward. Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. Ditto, ditto, with rain. E. b. S. Light winds, and rain. Variable. Frefli gales, and fqually. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. S. b, W. Freih breezes, and hazy. Saw the land, bearing N. N. E. Variable. Strong gales, and fqually. Ditto. Heavy gales, and thick weather. E. N. E. A'frclh gale. Saw the land N. E. b. E. South. Strong gales, and rain. Ditto. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. Cape Edt;ccombe N. 60 dcg. E. diftant 1 1 or 12 miles. Variable, A heavy gale, and hazy. Ditto. I'Vefli breezes, and hazv. W. S. W. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy. N. W. Frelh breezes, and clear. Saw the land. i6 APPENDIX. No. n. TABLE V. Continued. Route of tHe King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Sept. 1 9, Noon. Latituds; North. Longitude \\e(l. 51 56 Var'ations Eaft. 2o;5i 2150 22:50 2349 2449 2549 133 6JI3I 45 1 29 1724 25 50 03128 30 51 28 34 27 52 18 5 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. N. W. 55 59 I Ditto., ,SN.W 56 1 2649 29 27149 20 28 2949 ^5 ' 27 35'2o CO 57 S3 6i^- 53 57 62 3047 Odl. 1 47 53^^^ 30 53 129 44 Frefh breezes, and hazy. Frefh breezes and cloudy. Light winds, and cleat. Saw two Iflands, bearing N. 53 deg. E. N. N. W. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. The land in- fight. ^ ^N. W. Frefh breezes, and hazy. •5^ I Wo^dy Point N. 69 deg. W. Variable. Squally, with rain. King George's Sound bearing N. E. three or four leagues. rVariablc. Light airs, and cloudy. J North point of the Sound North, 63 [ deg. Eaft, diftant nine or ten miles. Variable. Heavy gales, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Saw the land from N. W. to Eaft. Variable. Squally, with heavy fl^owers of hail and rain. Extremes of the land from W. N. W. to E. b. S. A heavy fwell from S. S, W. Variable. Squally, with rain and hail. The point of the Sound North, 65 Eaft, diflant fcven or eight miles. VV. N. W. Frefh breezes, and fine wea- ther. The entrance o( the Sound N. 40 deg. E. 1 1 leagues. South. 1 .igh.t airs. \ heavy fwell from N.W. S. W. Frcfli breezes, and hazy. A heavy head fca. -> '_ S3 5/ J APPENDIX. No. ir. ^7 Saw E. and TABLE V. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. Latitude North. 1786. Od. 2, Noon. 3 46 50 45 41 10 1 1 12 1 16 19 37 3^3 35 36 3S 34 34 2o'34 2J:34 2234 2333 24i Longitude Variations I ? Well. Eaft. , I 444 56 44 06 43 07 43 o^ 42 34 41 5H 40 33 39 26 3« 43 02 32 57 04 54| 40] 28| 23: 13J °°| 42 26' 33 2J 33 00 32 39 30 10 30 02 30 46 31 04 30 52 31 59 22 06 31 31 31 31 31 14 22 00 34 47 33 52 33 33 35 36 36 38 41 41 42 20 45 14 06 51 25 00 06 12 43 02 43 3^^ 43 50 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. S6i 59 61 19 27 59 I 57 56^ 56 59 59t 60-L 64' 63 ) 621 1 67 67J- 69- 68 67 68 71 72 / ' 2 7: S. S. W. Moderate breezes, and clear. S. W. Freili breezes, and cloudy. N. W. Moderate breezes, with rain and foji;. North toS. S.W. Light winds, and clou- dy. A heavy fwell from theWcftward. South. Frefli breezes, with rain. Variable. Strong breezes, and foggy. S.W.b.S. Squally, withlightning&rain. S. S. W. Ditto, with rain. A heavy fvvcll from the Weftvvard. Ditto. FreHi gales, and fqually. Variable. Frelh breezes, and cloudy. S. S. W. A frelh gale, with rain, W. N. W. Ditto, ditto. A fwell from W. S. W. W. N. W. Frelh breezes. Several fliarks round the (hip. S. S. E. Light winds. South. Moderate breezes, and cloudy. Viinable. Light winds, and rain. N th. Moderate and hazy, with rain. Variable. Frelh breezes, and clear. S. b. E. Ditto, ditto, and doudy. South. Frefli breezes, and fqually. Ditto. Ditto, ditto. S.S.E. Frelh breezesandcloudy, with rain. S. K. Moderate and hazy. ^S. S. E. A tine breeze, and cloudy, I with ram. 71 I Ditto. Ditto, ditto. i • M il I f'"'l m i8 APPENDIX. No. ir. TABLE V. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1786. Oa.27, Noon. Latitude North. 28I32 29' 3 I 3o|29 3129 Nov. I 28 227 3 32 27 26 24 24 23 23 II 12 13 H ^5 16 03 05 48 05 18 06 Ijongitude jVariations vCcih Eaft. 24 56 32 03 01 145 144 146 146 147 148 149 149 •5° 150 151 •51 27 58 04 06 59 42 03 28 00 27 35 18 13 1 1 22 54 151 24 1022 35 22 05 21 30 2P 36 20 06 151 00 151 10 152 04 I5J 50 15a 39 20 07 153 20 155 11 46 9 27 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. I 74 72 72i 71 73 72 73^ 73 73 7ii 703 72 76 75 77 75 Frefli breezes, and fine wea- S. S. E ther. S. E. Moderate and cloudy. E. S. E. A fine breeze, and cloudy. S. E. Frefh breezes, with lightning. Ditto. Ditto, and fqually. Eaft. Moderate and cloudy, with rain. E. b. S. Freih breezes, and cloudy. Eaft. Ditto, ditto. E. b. N. Frelh breezes, and pleafant weather. E. S. E. Light winds, and cloudy. Variable. Frelli breezes, and rain. S. E. Moderate and cloudy. South. Light airs, and rain, c Variable. Strong gales, and fqually. I Caught fome dolphms, I Ditto. Heavy fqualls, with lightning, 7^T^ and rain. i Variable. Frelh gales, and fqually, with ^ rain. (Ditto. Moderate breezes. A fwell I from the S, E. N. N. E. Ditto, ditto, with fine wea- ther. ,(Eaft. Moderate breezes. Caught a 752 ^ large fliark. fE. N. E. Light winds, and clear. At five in the atternoon, faw land W. 79 80 S. W. 12 or 13 leagues. E. S. E. Moderate. Clofc in fhore. APPENDIX. No. It. *9 1 TABLE V. . Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Cook's River along the Coaft, and from thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. Latitude Longiiiide Nortli. Weft. r786. Nov. 1 7,, ,^ Noon. ^ ' ^ 18^20 08 20 22 23 24 25 26 27 20 52 21 10 21 12 21 30 21 28 21 2 21 32 2821 21 Variations 3 Eaih Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 91 80 ^ Variable. ( miles. Light airs. Off fliore three Mowee 84 J S. E. to S. W, Light airs. ( bore North. fVariabk". Strong gales, and cloudy. oon. ) July 6, Noon Latitude North. Longitude Variations 53 S3 Wdl Eaft. 34 28 02 133 31 '33 19 9S^ i 10|52 1252 13.52 H5I 15 5413a 28 48 5 2' I 32 20 oVni 16 481131 12 51 47 02! 1 1 20 5a 21 51 22^52 23 52 16^2 i7i52 1851 46113^ 3' 1951 57 01 54 10 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. ,lW. N, W. Moderate breezes, and 5^^^ cloudy. The natives alongfide trading. 5 1^ I N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. N. W. Frcfli breezes, and cloudy. Some canoes alongfide. ,.N. W. Frefh breezes. Off Ihorc three •> ^l or four miles. I N. W. Ditto, and hazy. Saw fome ^^ ( whales. Off fhore 10 or 1 1 miles. j^^W. N. W. Frelh breezes. Off Ihore S ^^ two or three miles. 52^IW. N.W. Afrclhgalc, and fqually. ' ( N. W. Moderate, and hazy. Off Ihore ^^ ( two miles. Several canoes alongfide. , ( W. N. W. Frelh breezes, and ioggy. ^ -) Several canoes alongfide. 5A 1 W. N. W. Frelh gales, and foggy. 53 I N. W. b. W. Ditto, and ditto. (Ditto. Frelh breezes, and foggy. Off ^^ ( lliore two miles. , I N. W. Ditto weather. Off Ihore three -^ - 1 or tour miJcs. 56 N. W. Frelh gales, and foggy. Off lliorc three or four leagues. N. W. Frcfli gales, and fqually, Off ^ ( fhore three leagues. 53 I Ditto. J)itto. A heavy fea. ' N. W. Frelh breezes, andhazv, Se- S3i veral fanues alongiidc. N.W. Moderate, and hazy. OfTfliorc three or four leaiiues. APPENDIX. No. II. n TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft, and thence ,.) the Sandwich Iflands. 1 ime. ■7^7- July 24, ; Noon. ' Latitude Loiv^itudc North. VVcrt. 30 Aug. I Variations Eaft. 26 27^52 i8 28 2953 00 52 3° 52 36 52 10129 42 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. SH S3 55 N. W. Moderate, a"nd clear. Several canoes alongfide. W. N. W. Li<;ht breezes, and cloudy. Off fliore four or five miles. ^W. N. W. Light breezes, and hazy. I Off fliorc three or four miles. {' Variable. Light winds. Saw land to the Eafl. Several canoes alongfidc. Off fliore eight or ten miles. (Variable. Light winds. In general we .1 find the current fetting to the South, ■^ ' - j with pieces of wood, grafs, and weeds 1^ floating pafl. Variable. Moderate, and clear. Saw land at four o'clock this afternoon, bearing N. N. W. at 19 or 20 leagues diflance, which is the fame land feen from the North end of thefe iflands. Soundings this day from 14 to 25 fa- thoms, land and fmall black flones. Several canoes alongfide. S. W. Light winds, and hazy. Great quantities of drift-wood and weeds floating paft the fhip. Off fhore three or four leagues. Several canoes round the fhip. Variable. Light winds . Off fhore 1 2 or 13 miles. N. to N. W. Light winds, and hazy. Off fhore two or three leagues. Cape St. James S. ^ W. H SI 54 S3i D 2 if a8 APPENDIX. No. II. TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft, and thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 1787. Aug. a>> Noon. ) Latitude North. Longitude .Variations Well. Eall 351 50 I 4I51 09129 10 5 649 48128 06 749 39 8 49 2S 949 30128 10 10 II 47 50' 29 29 45 551I30 5 57 55 55^ Winds, Weather, and Remarks. Variable, with light winds and foggy I weather. A heavy Iwell from the ] Southward. Cape St. James S. S. W. '(_ three or four leagues. Variable. Light winds, and hazy. At II A.M. the rocks off Cape St. James W. b. S. four or five miles dift. South to S. W. Moderate, and cloudy. Saw land bearing S-. 40 dcg. E. W. S. W. Frefl-i breezes, with CW. S.W. Frelh breezes, witn 1 S^i( A heavy fwell from the Weft ward fog. (>5H ^6^ 1 N. N. W. Freih breezes, and foggy "^ ( Variable. Light airs. Woody Point 57 I North fix leagues. Ditto. Ditto. King George's Sound N. 77 deg.E. diftant 14 or 15 miles. Spoke the Ihip Prince of Wales, Capt. Colinett ; and the floop Princcfs Roy- al, Capt. Duncan, from London, be- longing to our owners, all well. S. S. E. Freih breezes, and cloudy We learned from the Ihip and floop, who had left King George's Sound the day before, that Capt. Portlock was not there, and that no furs were to be met with ; fo at half paft nine A. M. wc parted with them, they fleering for Queen Charlotte's Iflands, and wc home by vvuy of China 60 57 56 N. W. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. W. N. W. Ditto, and pleafmt wea- ther. APPENDIX. No. n. ^ TABLE IX. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft, and thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. 17K7. Aug. ra? Noon. ) 13 I aiitudc North. Longitude Mcft. Variations Eaft. 44 43 »5 1443 42 1 6 41 I 1740 18 3« '937 30;36 21J34 22\13 23 3 > 24:29 25 27 26 26 27,24 28,24 29|23 3022 3I12I Sept. I 22 1 31 59 33'3i 59 02132 06 30132 16 4ojr3i 00 08133 26 53^33 JO 35 '3^ 50 07. '35 49 20|i36 20 09137 20 39'i38 28 35,' 39 27 37140 08 12141 08 16 16 57 '41 55 20 2:20 . 04143 06 21 144 06 26! 1 45 09 44:146 13 54^' 47 36 011150 03 9 8 6 18 37 c6 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 59 64 62^ 65 64i 65 66 69 67i 69 69^ 68" 67i 68 70 ^ 70 ■ 7^ 7'i| 73 75i 75 74i N. W. Frefli breezes, and fine weather. A fvvell from the Weftvvard. Variable. Moderate, and fine wea- ther. Ditto. Ditto, and cloudy. A heavy fwell from the Weft. Weft. Moderate, and cloudy. Variable. Light winds, and hazy. N. E. to North. Frefti breezes, and cloudy. N. W. to North. Ditto, and fine wea- ther. N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. Ditto. Ditto, and ditto. N. E. Frelh breezes, and cloudy^ N. E. Ditto, and ditto. Ditto. PVefti breezes, with rain. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto, and cloudy. N. E. Frcih breezes, and cloudy. A fwell from the N. E. N. E. to E. N. E. Ditto, and ditto. E. N. E. to Eaft. Moderate breezes, and cloudy . N. E. to Eaft. Moderate, with rain. N. E. Moderate breezes, and fine weather. N. E. to Eaft;. Squally, with rain. N. E. Moderate, and fine weather. Ditto. Frcfli breezes, and pleafant weather. N. N. E. Squally, with rain at times. lit 3« APPENDIX. No. II. T ABLE IX. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte from Norfolk Sound along the Coaft, and thence to the Sandwich Iflands. Time. ,787. Sept. 3,^ Noon. S 4 Latitude North. I.on;;itudi" Well. Vnrintions Halt. 3- Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 19 55152 09 '9 5^M3 43 5 20 04 154 4' , < E. b. N. Frefh breezes, and fine wea- 75^^ ther. 76 N. E. Moderate breezes", and cloudy. Variable. Ditto, and ditto. 75 N. B. At five, A. M. faw Owhy- liee. At noon, the Eaft end S. ^ W. lo or II leagues. T A B L E X. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongfl: the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to China. Time. LatUiKle North. Longitude Well. Variations Eall. 1787. Sept. 6, 1 Noon.. ) 20 17 20 13 8 20 1 5 1-3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 81 8a rVariablc. Squally, with rain at times. j At two P. M. leveral canoes with ] hogs and bread-fruit alongfidc. Off \_ iliore fcven or eight miles. I'Eafl. Moderate, and cloudy. Standing J off and on trading with the natives. I Eaft point of Owhyhce S. 50 deg. E. , :o. Frclh breezes, and clear. Stand- ing off" and on. South point of Owhyhce South two or three miles. APPENDIX. No. IT, 31 TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Iflands. and from thence to China. Time. latitude North. 178;. Sept. 9 Noon. Longitude V.clt. Variations Kail. ' i 20 30 I o'?< r 1 6 II la 1 3 21 1421 1521 1621 1721 18 I9'20 20 19 2l'l8 22 17 21 34 4.^ 55 55 I ij6o I 23 161 I T I 6 I 59 59t 1. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 81 'E. N. E. Firftpart, frcfh breezes ; lat- ter, light winds, Weil: end of llanai N. 10 dcg. W. 14 or 15 miles. (N. E. Moderate breezes, and cloudv, S iJ At 1 1 A. M. andiored in the Bay, - I South iide of Woahoo, in eight fa- (^ thoms water. ^ E. N. E. Strong breezes, and cloudy. ( Getting in water. ^ Ditto. Strong breezes. Complcatcd the ( water, and employed in getting wood. ^E. N. E. Frelh gales, and cloudy. At I five A. M. under fail for Atoui. fN.N. \\. Light bree/cs, and cloudy. 77-1-- N. W, point of Woahoo N. 83 deg. I E. dillant eiirht learrues. r Variable. Eight breezes. King's Mount, Ar(nii, N.'W. b. W. ^ W. eight or I nine leagues. j^ (j N. N. E. Liglu winds, and fine wea 80 81 83 8r ^iV 8 00 *: I ther. Several canoes aloiigfide. e . \E. N. E. Light winds. At anchor in - ^ Wymoa Rav, Atoui. S. E. Frefh breezes, and cloudv. The king, with his attendants, 0:1 board, E. N. E. Frelh brcczts, and cloudy. Under fail for China. Ealt, Frelh brce/es, iuul clear. A lueli ironi the Eailward. Eall, Squally, with rain, SN, E, J'Vclh breezcb, and fine plcafant ( wcathci. 83 S2 -Si /7 79 { r-ip .^.^a^JCtt. <1 t APPENDIX. No. II. i? TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to China. Time, Latitude North. Loiii^imJe.V'iiriatlons Well. I Ka;h I Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 1787. ^^P''^3^!,^ 28162 57 Noon. I) I , 2413 56 164 02 8 107 i 20-3 22166 14 i ' I 26ji3 35167 4^1 27:13 3716S 20! 28I13 ^ii-ji .^5' 8 43; C913 3^,n3 -^ 3°.^ 3 43|i75 28 ! I Ocfb. 113 40 176 20' 213 36177 44 3^3 44,' 79 32 44 3 47 I Si 16 C 1 1 47 lb2 2112 00 613 49183 51 7'3 4', '^5 o' s'13 24187 37 IH () Eufl:. Frcfh breezes and fqually, with rain, 9 '3 ' 189 31 10 13 18,190 36 1113 05 192 06 12 10 13 08194 22, ^ Ditto. Strong breezes, and clear wca- l ther. ( Eaft. Frefli breezes, and pleafant wea- / thcr. Ditto. Squally, with rain. N. E. to E. b. S. Ditto, with ditto. E. N. r. A ftrong gale, and fqually. Ditto. A ftrong gale, with heavy rain. ( E. N. E. to E. S. E. Frclh breezes, I with lightning and rain. ( E. S. E. to E. b. N . Light w inds, and ] cloudy. A Iwcll from the Northward. ( E. N. E. Light breezes, and fine wca- (Ditto. Frcfli breezes and fqually, with ) lightning. I EalL Frclh breezes, and cloudy. ^S. E. Light winds. Lightning in the I N.E. E. S. E. Squally, with heavy ni'\ Eaft. Frcfli breezes, ami fine weather. ^ E. N. E. Frefli breezes and fqually, ( with rain. ^ Ditto. Ditto and heavy fqualls, with I rain. {S. S. E. to E. b. N. Light winds, and I cloudy. A heavy fw:!! jVnm the S. K. \ E. b. N. Squally. A fwell iVom the ( Northward, ir} i EalL Frclh breezes, and lin e wa thfr. 77 80 79i 82 8r^ 80 8ii 82 «3i B3 82^ 84 8i,V 84- 82 82 «3 8r APPENDIX. No. ir. 33 TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to China. Time. 1787 oa. 13, Noon n H 16 17 18 20 21 22 2315 Latitude North. 13 04 12 13 13 13 13 13 14 14 24 25 16 16 26:16 I 27117 28|i8 29' 1 9 09 04 22 22 25 01 1 1 Longitude Weft. 196 20 198 28 200 02 202 02 203 47 206 04 208 10 210 32 1 12 16 14 47214 16 216 27 218 34 220 28 222 36 225 19 44 02229 44 25 10 34 57 26 19 19231 27 i 19 52;232 00 Variations Eaft. 8 7 21 15 S 34 25 H EI- Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 83i 8ii-< 77 82i 80 I 82 I 80 I 82l| 84; 83 83 B3i 84 83i 82^ 82 ^4i E. b. N. Heavy fqualls, with rain,, thunder, and lightning. A fwell from the Eaftward. E. N, E. Squally, with thunder, light- ning, and rain. A heavy lea from the Eaft ward. S. E. Squally, with rain. Variable. Frelli breezes, and cloudy. N. E. Frelh breezes and fqually, with rain. Ditto. Strong breezes, and lightning. E. N. E. Squally, with rain. E. b. N. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fwell from the N. E. E. N. E. Moderate, and clear. Saw fevcral birds and filh round the fhlp. E. N. E. Freih breezes, and clear. Saw the land bearing N. 80 deg. W. five or fix leagues. At fix, P. M. the center of Aguigan bore N. 83 deg. E. diftant five leagues. E. N. E. Frclh breezes, and cloudy. N. E. b. E. Squally, with rain. Eaft. Frclh breezes, and cloudy. E. N. E. Ditto, ditto. N. E. A frclh gale, with rain. E. S. E. Squally, with rain. Ditto. A frefli breeze, and fine weather. E= N. E-. Moderate breezes^ and. fine ith weatnci 84 Ditto. Moderate breezes. Nunibers of filh and bads round tiie fhip. J t : : j iHi £ <. ..4« ■ j^i ^l y w> "' " "H *^- 'X.»r . ii 34 APPENDIX. No. ir. TABLE X. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte while amongft the Sandwich Iflands, and from thence to Clhina. Time. '7?:- Nov. I, Noon. Latitude North. Longitude Weft. Varia i 20 l8 221 02 321 06 233 12 236 00 237 24 421 24238 50 521 35 621 37 722 22 822 07 239 37 241 55 244 56 Eat}. Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 85 8'2 80 < ( E. N. E. Moderate breezes, and fine ( weather. ( Variable. Freih breezes and fqually, ( with thunder, h'ghtning, and rain, y (N. E. Strong gales. A heavy fwell 7^ I from the N.W. Eaft. Frefh breezes, and dark cloudy weather. At two, P. M. faw a fmall ifland bearing N. 40 dcg. W. four or five leagues ; and foon afterwards ano- ther ifland to the Northward of the firft. At eight, P. M. ftocul to the Southward, under an eafy fail. Variable. Squally, rainy weather. At two, P. M. iaw two of the Ea(hce Iflands bearing South 37 dcg. E. fix or fcven leagues diflant. N. E. to North. Strong gales, and cloudy. A heavy iwdl from the Northward. N. N. E. Frefli gales, and hazy. At eight, A. M. faw the land bearing N. W. diflant four or five leagues. Sounded 25 fathoms, grey and with bla<;k fpecks. At one, P. M. faw fe- verai Chinefe filhing-boats. E. Frefli breezes. Got a pilot for Macao, and at 11 P. M. came to in the roads in fix fathoms water ; the 79 76 75 N. 79i-< Peak of lanrin N. o f M; icao W. 79 ^^g- E. th e ci 7 APPENDIX. No. II. n and the TABLE XI. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from Chimi to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Feb. 10, Noon. Latitude North. I I 12 16 ^7 20 ai 22 23 24 25 26 Longitude Weft. 21 35 20 02246 GO 18 54246 05 18 01246 02 17 44246 30 16 33246 12 15 33246 04 14 24247 10 i8!i3 01247 49 19 1 1 42248 30 10 04250 36 8 44252 42 7 04253 55 5 31254 56 I ; 36 255 00 255 00 Variations Weft. I II254 31 17 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 65 i 67i 7H iH 74 75 76 iH 77 77 7« 797 70 81 82 r Variable. Frefh breezes, and fine wea- ' ther. At 10, A. M. the Peak of the Grand LadroneN. 40 deg. E. diftant 1^ fix or feven leagues. { N. E. to Eaft. Frefli breezes, and fine I weather. E. S. E. Moderate breezes, and clear. S. E. to Eaft. Frefh breezes, and clear. S. E. Fre'h breezes, and cloudy. E, b. N. Ditto, ditto. ' N. E. Moderate breezes, and clear. E. N. E. A fine breeze, and pleafant weather, N. E. Ditto, ditto. N. E. b. N. Frefh breezes, and fine weather. North to N. E. Frefh breezes. Pulo Snpata. S. 67 deg. Vv. diflant four miles. i N. E. Frefli breezes, and pleafant wea- } ther. Ditto. Moderate, and hazy. Eaft. Ditto and cloudy, with lightning. Eafl to E. N. E. Moderate, with light- ning and rain. E. n! E. to N. N, E. Moderate, ditto. Pulo D'Omar N. 37 deg. E. diftant four leagues. N. N. E. Moderate breezes. Land from 38 deg. dillant fevcn or eight leagues. 65 deg. E a •-^:r --•-ii^s^ 36 APPENDIX. No. n. l Br t ': TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Feb. 27,? Noon. ) 28 29 March 1 Latitpdc- South. IjOngitude Variations Weft. Wert. o 08254 10 I 13254 32 2 14 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 85 82 <; 83i< 81 ^. North to N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. The Ifland Dominis W. b. S. feven or eight leagues. ^N. N. E. Moderate, with lightning and rain. At 1 1 , A. M. departed this life Mr. William Lauder, furgeon. At noon, the three iflands from S. b. E. to E. N. E. diftant from the nearell three or four miles. 'N. N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. At 10, A. M. committed the body of our late furgeon to the deep. At noon, Monopin Hill N. 10 deg. W. five or fix leagues. At one, P. M. favv a dry bank of fand and rocks. At half part: one, the middle of the bank bore S. E. b. S. ~ of a mile dirtant; depth of water eight and nine fathoms; Mo- nopin Hill at the fame time bearing N. W. b. N. Palled the bank to the Eaftward ; anil at feven, P. M. an- chored in 1 1 fathoms, muddy bottom. Variable. At five, A M. weighed and matie fail. Squally, with thunder, lightning, and rain. Mount Permafang E. b. N. A point on tlic Sumatra (hore S. b. W. diilaiu three or four miles. At three, P. M. pafTcd a Dutch man of war lying at anchor. At half pad- five, the Ivanfdown Eail-Indiaman joii.cd company. At feven, anchored in 9' fathoms, mudily bottom. APPENDIX. No. 11. 37 TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 2, Noon. Latitude South. Longitude Variations Weft. ^^elt. 3 oH o ' o 3 3 09 L 3 S^ •I 3 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. u ' 79 < S2i Variable. Lightning, thunder, and rain. At five, A. M. weighed and made fi\il. At nine anchored, the Ifland of Lufcpara bearing N. 43 deg. E. fix or eight miles ; firft point on the Sumatra fhorc N. W. Athalf paftone, P. M. weighed and made fail. At half pafi: five, the Lanfdown got aground, ftood more to the Weft ward, and let go the anchor in 6| fathoms water; the Ifland of Lufepara S. 49 deg. E. five or fix miles ; firft point on the Suma- tra fliore N. W. b. N. Hoifted out the whale-boat, and went on board the Lanfdown with fevcn hands to af- fift in getting her ofip. ("Var'Able. Light winds, with thunder, lighCiPg, and rain. At three, A. M. got the Lanfdown into deep water without any damage. At noon, weigh- ed and liiiled in company ; foundings from fix to four fiithoms. At four, P.M. the Ifland Lufepai.i N . 88 deg. E. diftant iix or feven miles. ^Variable. SquaPv, with rain. By noon in-jreafed ou) ibundings to eight fa- thoms. At three, P. M. anchored in 1 1 f ithoms water ; tide fetting E. S. E. one mile ptr hour. [South. Ligat oreezes, 87 \ lightning, and n;in thunder, v/itli During this :V-| hours, feveral tunes under wcii'i:. '^-■p Bii 38 APPENDIX. No. II. I '■ - TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to parting Company off Java Head. Time. l-ihi. M ^ -ir. 6,1 .oon. J 10 II Ijititude South. 4 17 4 S3 4 57 5 04 Longitude .ongitu Well. 5 06 Variations Weft. rr Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 90 87 I 85i 831 ■< 82 85 Variable. Moderate, and cloudy. At fc- vcn.P. M. weighed and made fail. At \ part ID, came to in eight fathoms. Variable. Moderate, with rain and light- ning. At half part three, A. M. came to fail. At one, P. M. anchored in 1 1 fathoms water, muddy bottom. Variable. Light airs. At half paft one, A. M. foiled. At noon, the Sifters S. 40 deg. W. fix or feven miles. At fix, P. M. came to in 10 fa- thomswater; the Sifters S, 17 deg. W. Variable. Squally, with rain. At four, A. M. finding the fhip dragged her anchor, hove it up and made fail. At ten, light winds. Came to, with the heft bovver in 1 1 fathoms water ; the Sifters bearing S. 25 deg. W. diftant nine miles. At noon, weighed and made fail. At fix, P. M. came to in 1 1 fathoms water ; the Sifters bear- ing S. b. E. four or five miles. Variable. At three, P. M. weighed and made fail. At five, anchored in ten fathoms ; the Northcrmoft of t>ic Sifters S. 40 deg. E. From S. E. b. S. to S. S. W. Light breezes, and cloudy. At feven, A. M. weighed and made fail. At 10, A. M. anchored in 12 fathoms; Northernioll of the Sifters S. 50 ^Qg. E. four miles diihince. I' i- 'i\ •*«•% APPENDIX. No. II. 39 TABLE XL Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 12 Noon. U 14. 15 76 Latitude South. Longitude Welt. Variations Welt. 22 5 35 24 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 87 < Variable. Squally, with rain, thunder, and lightning. At five, A. M. weigh- ed and made fail. At noon, moderate and cloudy. At two, P. M. anchor- ed in 1 1 fathoms water. N. W. Squally, with rain. At four, A. M. weighed and made fail. At 1 1 , came to in five fathoms water. At noon, weighed and ftood through be- twixt North Ifland and the Sumatra 87 ^ fhore, and anchored in nine fathoms water, muddy bottom; North Ifland^ bearing N. E. b. N. diftant three miles; the watering-place S. W, four miles. Found riding here feveral Dutch vcflels. N. W. Light breezes, and cloudy. At anchor, wooding and watering. Variable and cloudy weather, with much light 'ng. At (even, A. M. weighed and came to fail in company with the King George. From this to the 23d getting to Cracatoa, where we filled up our water. Variable, with rain. At four, A. M. weighed and made fail in company with the King George. At noon, the 83 -\ Peak on Cracatoa bore N. 18 deg. W. At nine, P. M. anchored in 42 fathoms, muddy bottom ; V-cok. on Prince*^s Ifland S. 76 deg. W. 85 84 Mean < 82 ■r-«|r ^^HU M 1 H |HWi'i K'''^ m^ji ' * 1 F ^ 4» APPENDIX. No. II. TABLE XI. Continued. Route of the King George and Queen Charlotte from China, to parting Company off Java Head. Time. 1788. Mar. 25 Noon. Latitude South. 27 29 6 22> a6 6 36 Longitude Weft. Variations Weft. 7 49254 40 08 ID 17 •55 09 255 o^ 30 1 1 i3;254 50 ^ Winds, Weather, and Remarks. HH 83 * 'my - / '^o & ^ 7a 1.0 I.I 2.8 Ninas no IL25 i 1.4 6" [2.5 22 IM 1.6 Ptiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 \ :1>^ :\ \ CV w^ APPENDIX. No. n. TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Com.pJtny vith the King George, to St. Helena. Time. 1788. Apr. 21 Noon. 22 33 Latitude South. 22 27 23 09 22 54299 ^423 27 M&y 25 26 27 28 29 30 I 2 3 24 24 26 27 27 28 28 29 28, Longitude Well. ■ Variations Weft. • 296 20 298 20 00 04 44 03 00 SI 09 SS 17 27 28 08 28 54 29 26 3<5 I J 300 22 302 00 3°3 40 304 20 3°S 54 307 20 310 30 3U 00 313 48 3H 44 316 44 318 li 320 00 321 58 19 30 21 00 34 35 sr Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 80 76i 73 72 71 72 74 74i 74 72i 74 ^^ 72 70T 69i 70 N. .N. E. Frelh breezes, and clear. Variable. Squally, with rain. . Dit?to. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. At five, P. M. faw two fail in the S. E. quarter, Handing N. E. ( Variable. Frefh breezes, and cloudy. I A heavy fwell. iS. b. E. to N. E. Fre(h breezes, and I cloudy. jS. E. Ditto, and clear. ( Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fine weather. ( Filh and birds round the fliip. { E. S. E. Frefli breezes, and fine wea- ( ther. ^Eaft. Ditto, ditto. Lightning to the I S. W. Ditto. Frefh breezes, and fqually. E. S. E. to N. E, Ditto, ditto, with thunder and lightning. N. b. W. to Weft. Frefh breezes, and clear. S. W. to S. S. E. Ditto, with rain. Ditto to ditto. Frefh breezes. Great . quantities of bonetta round the fhip, I i-veral of which our people caught [^ with hook and line. ^ South. Frefh breezes. Numbers of ( birds and filh round the fhip. \ South to S. E. Frcih breezes, and I cloudy. Fifli and birds round the fliip. I E. S. E. to E. N. E. Ditto, ditto, ditto. I APPENDIX. No. n. 43 TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with the King George, to St. Helena. Time. Latitude South.- Longitude Weft. n88. May 8, Noon. ro 11 12 H 16 30 31 32 3« 33 34 35 36 36 Variations Weft. 54 30 08 45 a6 22 26 07 10 323 28 334 31 325 »3 327 06 329 08 331 23 334 40 336 21- 336 53 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 17 35 24 18 24 12 336 53 19 36 30 57 36 336 40 33^ 5° 69 Vs. S. W. Frefli breezes, and fqually. . S Eaft to N. N. E. Frelh breezes, and ^+ I hazy. ^ E. N. E. to S. W. b. S. Squally, with 7^ I lightning and rain. , \ South to S. S. W, Light winds, and ^9 \ clear. 68 1 S. S. E. to N. E. Ditto, ditto. ^ N. E. Frelh breezes. A heavy fwell 72 I fromS.W. J N. N. E. Ditto, ditto. At 1 1 , A. M. 7^2 ( pafled an empty cafk. 75^ I N. E. Moderate, and cloudy. ( Variable. A heavy gale, and crofs fea. 7° I Saw a large fhip ftanding to the S. E. ''Variable. A heavy gale. Found both pumps choaked with fand ; got them up and cleared them ; broke up the fore -hold to examine if there was any water lodged — found" all dry j flowed the teas again, and fecured the hold. W. to S. W. A heavy, gale. Obliged to keep one pump on deck, and a hand in the well, to keep the other 60 ^ clear of fand. Found a leak abaft. Got feveral things out of the run, and hove them overboard to lighten the 111 ip abaft.. CN. E. to N. W. b. N. A. heavy gale, 63.i< and ciois fea. F z. ifcir.;,«-.»'Wiw.a;« ? ,' i' S 4- • } ■' } If if 1 i mA '4 kk APPENDIX. No. ft. TABLE XII. Continued. Route -of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Cofnpany with the King George, to St. Helena. Time. 1788. May 20, i Noon. ' 21 22 23 34 25 26 27 28 29 30 Latitude South. 36 57 36 40 Longitude Weft. 33^ 40 337 20 Variations Weft. 36 00338 10 35 48338 09 3$ 36338 19 3i 32 36 17 36 t2 37 12 35 54 34 50 337 48 339 00 339 39 340 03 342 16 345 32 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. f N. W. to W. b. N. A frelh gale, and ^ J cloudy. Hove four barrels of powder l' overboard. Saw a large fhip ftanding L to the Eaftward. <\ Variable. A frefli gale, and cloudy, with ^^ ( a crofs fea ; the pump ftill on deck. {Variable* A heavy gale, and high fea. Saw a large (hip ftanding to the Eaft- ward. 'N. W. to North. A heavy gale. Under reefed courfes and foretopmaft ftay- 58 -^ fail. In a heavy fquall fplit the fore- topmaft ftayfail, unbent it, and bent another. W. N. W. to Weft. Strong breezes, , , and cloudy. A heavy crofs fea. Got ground 70 fathoms. At feven, A. M. favv a ftiip ftanding to the Northward. rW. b. N. to W. b. S. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. At eight, A. M. fpoke the LanfdownEaft-Indiaman,all well. , C Variable. Moderate, and clear. A heavy 2 I fwell from the W. S. W. , ( N. W. b. N. to N. b. E. Frefli breezes, ^ ( and fqually at times. (North to N. W. Frefli breezes, and ^9 I fqually. QjCVaiiable. Ditto, ditto. A heavy fea ^^^l fromS. W. W. to S. b. E. A frefli gale, and 59 59 54 c o fqually APPENDIX. No. II. 41 TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with the King George, to St. Helena. Time. May 31 ) Noon. ) June I 3 4 S 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 »3 15 Latitude South. 33 32 30 29 29 28 27 26 24 23 22 20 •9 18 17 Longitude Variations Weft. Well. 44 04 48 347 348 348 54348 1616 »7 16 18 26 ^7 51 44 27 58 34 23 06 18 04] 347 346 346 347 350 352 354 35^ 358 00 50 II 18 27 39 36 24 27 04 05 19 40 47 30 2 13 3 4 58 30 21 13 16 02 Winds, Weather, and Remarks. 59 60 61 6ix 61 61X 62i 62 63 65i 66i- 6 6 68i 68 7' 71^ ^ Variable, Frefh breezes, and cloudy. ( Saw a fail. (S. S. E. to E. S. E. Moderate breezes, ( and clear. ^Eaft to S. E. Moderate breezes, and ( clear. Got both pumps down. ^ Variable. Light winds, and clear. Saw C a feal. S Ditto. Frefti breezes, and fqually. Saw ( a whale. S Variable. Frcfti gales and cloudy, with^ c rain. ^ Ditto. Frefli breezes, with a heavy ( fwell from the N. W. ^S. W. to S. S. E. Light winds, a heavy ( crofs fea. S S. S. E. to S. S. W. Strong breezes, and c hazy. j S. E. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. ( S. E. b. S. Ditto, ditto, and hazy. A ( following fea. Ditto. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. S. E. b. S. A frefli gale, and ditto. Variable. Frefli breezes, and cloudy. S. E. A fine breeze, and cloudy. Hav- ing made 360 deg. Wefl:, and loft one day, we call this the 15th. S. E. b. S. Moderate, and cloudy. S. S. E. Ditto, ditto. A^ APPENDIX. No. II. TABLE XII. Continued. Route of the Queen Charlotte, after parting Company with the King George, to St. Helena, Time. 1788. June 1 8, Npon. Latitude South. Longitude Weft. Variations Weft. a- o Wittds, Weather, and Remarks. 72 L ! South fo E. S.E. Moderate, and, fine weather. Athalf paft three, A. M. faw St. Helena bearing N. W.. At 1 1 , anchored in the road in 1 9 fathoms. Found here the King George, andie- Ycralmorefhips.. APPENDIX. No. ir. 47 # ' TABLE Xlir. Shews the Difference between the Watch, Lunar Obfervations, and Longitude, by Account at Noon on feveral Days during the Paflage from St. Jago to the Sandwich Iflands. N. B. The Watch is one of Mr. Arnold's fmall Pocket Time-keepers. Time. 1785. Nov. 1 8 21 ■ 28 Dec. 4 8 13 22 «5 1786. Jan. 26 30 Feb. 7 18 22 Watch Weft. 28 30 34 37 4a 46 S3 54 27 March 6 »5 20 25 II April May 19 26 4 19 22 23 24 64 62 ?: 82 81 82 81 85 89 92 110 116 117 125 146 '5i 153 154 03 45 25 46 35 21 40 42 Lunar Obfervations Weft. 28 30 09 3S 10 21 33 38 no obicrv. 53 36 no obferv. 10 29 »9 30 51 30 40 43 31 16 00 40 00 00 40 32 44 40 15 16 ditto. 64 37 no obferv. ditto, ditto. 82 50 82 23 no obferv. 81 38I no obferv 89 ao 92 04 109 20 115 40 no obferv 124 30 146 45 151 34 no obferv. ditto. Account Weft. 24 54 26 30 29 34 33 56 38 41 43 43 51 58 51 35 Remarks. I'c 54 63 63 4 6 87 85 ^7 83 90 94 99 112 118 120 127 '47 151 ^53 154 25 18 30 59 II 01 39 26 25 03 44 17 24 13 55 58 32 39 33 10 Having found the watch to alter her rate of going in different degrees of heat and cold before we left St. Jago, I made a fmall table of the altera- tions by which Ihe was always cal- culated during our paflage to the Sandwich Iflands. At the time we left St. Jago, the watch loft on mean time o'' day. 00™. 02 per On our leaving the Falkland Iflands, flic loft on mean time o'*. 00"". 05'. per day. May 34th, at noon, the N. E. point of Owhyhee bearing N, | W. three or four leagues diftlnt, f found the watch to be out in longitude 38 miles.