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CxLIMPSES OF LONDO 
 
 .\.\j> 
 
 ATLANTIC EXrEIIIKNCES 
 
 -on 
 
 An Account of a Voyage to England, what was seen there, 
 and back again, the starting point being jOttawa, 
 
 IN THE WINTER OF 1872-73. 
 
 HV 
 
 CtlARLES ROGER, F. R. H. S. 
 
 " /V/- iiiarr rl Ifrnim 
 
 OTTAWA: 
 
 rnnleU S)r the Author by Robertson, Rogers Co., "The TimeK" \V€llington Htreet. 
 
 1878. 
 
a 
 
tC 
 
 At the request ol some iriencls — and I ically have a low 
 romaiuini>- — 1 publisli tlic series ol letters, which, iu the 
 capacity ol' English special correspondent. I hnd addressed 
 '0 the Ottawa Times. They arc reminiscenses ol" a visit to 
 the great metropolis of the world. They arc words of 
 remembrance to some who passed with me over the 
 Atlantic in its roughest aspects. They are comparative 
 notices of matters as they are in an old and revered land, 
 with the state of things existing in this extraordinarily pro- 
 gressive Canada. And they are mental photographs, which, 
 if not well executed, may still be suflicient to awaken some 
 lingering, longing look. Nearly forty years had elapsed from 
 the time of my leaving England until my return to it. I 
 left her hospitable shores when only one railroad existed in 
 England, one in Scotland, and none in Ireland. I returned 
 to lind the electric telegraph in full operation at one shilling 
 for twenty words from tht; (xiants' Causeway to the Hebri- 
 des ; underground and overground railways everywhere ; 
 viaducts where there had been slippery ascents ; and only a 
 very few ante-lluvial aspects of a past time ; and two or 
 three familiar faces whom it may never be my lot to see 
 again. To my familiar spirits I leave these letters. Vale : 
 in plain English, I say to them farewell — a long and possi- 
 bly last farewell. 
 
 Ottawa, 18th July, 1873. 
 
 C. ROGER. 
 
r< I 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
■ 
 
 (S 
 
 ',:) 
 
 \ 
 
 GLIMPSES OF LONDON 
 
 A N I » 
 
 ATLANTIC EXPERl ENCES. 
 
 L E T T 1^] R I . 
 
 I.oavint? ()ttaw.'»-.Montrpal-(ienoral Noal I)(nv-rinllW;.,v TnivelliiiK-Ishnul l'<„„|- 
 I'lic "Hiirl)cr"-l)pi)intiirc'IVoiii I'dii IhikI ;mil rinh-ii ut Hiililitx, N,S. 
 
 Sri:AMsrii|. - r'Ki;rvi,xv,'. ,,vy sambr.. Mdiit, 
 
 Mmdmi. -lOtfi Drof-rnhpr. I,S7L'. 
 
 Cold onouo-h it was, assunnlly, the nio-ht affor Christ- 
 mas Day, but once unsoonced in one ot th«^ sola cars of tho 
 St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railway, tho situation was com- 
 fortable, and oven pleasant. Arrivino- at the Prescott 
 Junction, the passeng-er.s o-oinp- east, al'ter a good breakfast, 
 transferred themselves to the O-rand Trunk train, in which 
 they passed onwards to Montreal on time. Never did I 
 witness such an improvement as met my eyes in the com- 
 mercial metropolis of the Dominion. Streets were widened, 
 houses of palatial appearance had risen up replacing the 
 old fashioned, steep roofed buildings copied from the 
 
6 
 
 housos of tli«» first I'riMich settlors in IIo(h('liii»ii. Ev«>n the 
 mercantile portions oi' the city showed starlliiij^ Hif^ns of 
 advanoiuL'' wealth and importance : the great French Cathe- 
 dral seemed to hav»' diminished in size as the surrounding 
 ueighy)orhood hud increased in height. Thm'e vv^ry, how- 
 ever, few, if any, old Montreal faces to hf met with, Some 
 I did see, and the time was pleasantly spent until th<' hour 
 for starting on the Grand Trunk en youtc. lor Portland came. 
 It was ten exactly when the passengers left the Bonaventun; 
 Station for that interesting city, the abiding place of the 
 American Apostle of Temperance, G-eneral Dow, in which, 
 by the way, lots ol drinking houses — low shanties, as I 
 am told — I had no opportunity oi seeing for myselt — 
 exist. In a few minutes after leaving Point St. Charles, we 
 passed over that wonder of the age, the Victoria Bridge. 
 Everything went pleasantly as far as Richmond, as the con- 
 ductors, and, indeed, all the employees of the G-rand Trunk 
 Railway Company are, without exception, courteous aiul 
 gentlemanly in their behaviour towards travellers. Then a 
 change came over the spirit of my dream of comfort, which 
 ought to have been anticipated. The night passed, and 
 the morn arose in all the glory of a Canadian winter. A 
 bright, cloudless sky — slight biting drifts — men mufiied up 
 like Egyptian ladies — horses of whatever colour made 
 quite white, as horses are particularly wont to be in winter 
 time — the roads so hard, that although only creeping along, 
 the Uanges of the car-wheels being virtually annihilated by 
 
 1 ) 
 
i 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 tho tonacious snow, which, al a ti^mporntnrc oi' .'1'^ holow 
 zoro, would cliiii^ to tho vvhools of tho carrino-»> oi' Jove 
 himsolf — the train ran in part off tho track, and thoro was 
 the usual amount ol" scrow-jacking- and lovor-purchasing' to 
 restoro mattors. This accomplishod, on wo wont aft'ain, tho 
 train rolling slowly and doliboratoly to provont aocidonts. 
 Having had nothing to oat, oxoopt one littlo plate of oystor 
 soup in MontrtMil. it was exceodm ■ y unpleasant to bo in- 
 i'ormod that breakfast was not likely to bo had until wo 
 reached tho Inn at Island Ponu — beautiTJiy situated, by th(^ 
 v/ay, on the banks o*'a littlo lake, in tho contre of which is an 
 islet, which must be a very pretty one in summer, and from 
 which the somewhat scattered New HampsKiio Village do- 
 rives its name. There was pleasantry, if not pleasantness, on 
 board when tho unwelcome news was communicated. .Some- 
 where about two in tho afternoon this desirable haven of 20 
 minutes rest was reached, and the passengers went up a gal- 
 lows looking stairway and over a wide valley on a long bridge, 
 strotchinir from under the roof of the station house to tho 
 house of refreshment for the iamishod travellers. They 
 entered ; dinner was announced ; brandy and beer wore 
 asked for, but alas, alas, we were in a temperance State. 
 Drinks were got, nevertheless, at 20 cents a glass, in a small 
 cupboard somewhere between the ' gentlemen's walk,' and 
 the billiard room . There were sundry bottles of ' opizoot,' 
 and those who thirsted approached the spring — I do not 
 mean to speak irreverently — whore living waters flowed— 
 
8 
 
 tho (tqna mt(P, or " Mountain Dew ' of Scotland, and the eau 
 de vie of France. Every heart beat with joy : there was 
 ' Balm in Grilead,' or ' treacle,' as the lirst translators of 
 Holy Writ, make it. The thirsty drank and were comforted 
 })y a badly cooked dinner, at a cost of 75 cents each, and 
 went away rejoiciinu', nevertheless. Then came, to damp 
 this temporary joy, the news that our train was to be 
 delayed tor tli«^ arrival of the special Ciuiyinii' the mails for 
 th<' steamship ' Peruvian.' \i (!ame in about two hours 
 soc)ner than was expected — the mails being in charge of 
 Mr. Ross, that exemplary ofhcial of the Postal Service, and 
 in twenty minutes after the train set off for Portland. 
 Slowly and sadly they bore us on, and slowly and sadly 
 we laid ourselves do xn in our Pullman again to sleep. There 
 was no chance of reaching the paradise of G-en. Neal Dow 
 until Sunday morning. It was liv(»- o'clock yesterday when 
 that far-famed place was reachcnl, and a party of Quebec 
 fri(ni(is hastened with us towards the wharf. What a sight 
 presented itself when we reached it. There was plainly 
 visible the mizen mast, or rather a portion of it, of what 
 was said to be our vessel. Her decks were a sheet of ice, 
 and the ' bar])er ' rising in a dense, biting, white smok«\ hid 
 foremast, funnel and mainmnst from view. Descending a 
 steep, but excellent gangway, the passengers en route for 
 Enarland via Halifax soon found themselves in one of the 
 most finely fitted up, well arranged and roomy cabins that I 
 have ever seen in an ocean-going ship. Better still, breakfiist 
 
 i 
 
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 ■I 
 
 i sf 
 
9 
 
 ol the 
 1 thai 1 
 eakfjist 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 was instantly provided, and the inner man comforted 
 thereby. At seven in rhe mornino- steam was o-ot up, and 
 the splendid ship beuan to crush the ice which surrounded 
 heron all sides The ' barber" rising Irom the frozen por- 
 tions of the harboi- produced such a log, however, thai the 
 pilot could not venture to go on, and the vessel, which had 
 not reached the Point Elizabeth lighthouse, was brought to 
 anchor. We seemed to be somewhere in the iKMghborhood 
 of G-reenland. This grey fog lilting as the sun began to 
 shine out with wonted splendour, the gallant craft was 
 got under weigh, and threading our way through a 
 thousand islands, passing a square stone fort like 
 that at which, when the American civil war broke out, 
 there was " nobo ly hurt," the pilot left us in his icy dingy, 
 and the "Peruvian" went to sea under command of that 
 excellent sailor and accomplished gentleman, Captain Smith. 
 She bowled along over the deep, deep sea, at eleven knots, 
 and the swell was gentle, and the breeze bracing. The bell 
 rang lor public worship soon after breakfast, and all cam<^ 
 down aiul joined. The prayers of the church were read 
 by Capt. Smith — dressed in full uniform — with admirable 
 etiect, A sermon was also read by him on prayer, originally 
 written by the Bishop of Exeter, hymns were sung, the bene- 
 diction pronounced, and church was over. It is now Mon- 
 day mornini!, and we are entering Halifax harbor as I 
 writt — the vessel shaking the table deucedly. In my next 
 1 shall give you a particular description ol the voyage. 
 
mm 
 
 10 
 
 Now. T have timo to say no more, as I must seo a very 
 excellent fellow, the Mail Officer, Mr. Bowes, and solicit 
 irom him an envelope and pen and ink. 
 
 
 4 
 
 L E T T E li 11. 
 
 The Passage between Porllnnd and Ifaliliix-iralilaxin Winter-Tlio Haliliix Museum— 
 An Old Krlrnd— The ("lladel-The SS. Peruvian-New Passengers— Tlic Jnmiux 
 —The " Dismal Swnniji"— On the Atlantic— Arrival at Liveriiool. 
 
 London, Jatmar// lll/i, 1873. 
 
 The steamship Pfruvian was making her way into Hali- 
 fax harbour and approachinii' G-eoro-e's Island, when I ne- 
 cessarily closed my previous communication It is a some- 
 what dangerous passage that between Portland and Haliftix. 
 Kverywhero there are rocks, and these not always bare. 
 ( )ir Cape Sable, there are numerous reefs. They, indeed, ex- 
 tend seaward for several miles, and the red revolving light 
 now on it, is anything but suHicient to enable th(* mariner 
 safely to avoid them. A light which can be seen at a dis- 
 tance ol' fully twenty miles is much wanted, and it is alto- 
 geth(n' likely that the Hon. Peter Mitchell, Minister of 
 Marine and Fisheries, will give the matter his best attention. 
 Crossing the Bay of Fundy. there were strong variable cur- 
 rents, and it was not unlil 11 at night that Seal Island lioht 
 
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 1 ela 
 
 I 
 
 !l ,' 
 
11 
 
 =>o a very 
 lid solicit 
 
 !ix Miisonm— 
 i— Tlic Jttmiia 
 
 fi, 1873. 
 
 into Hali- 
 leii I iie- 
 5 a some- 
 Halifax, 
 lys bare, 
 deed, ex- 
 ing" light 
 mariner 
 at a dis- 
 it is alto- 
 nister ol* 
 ittention. 
 !i))le cur- 
 md light 
 
 was sighted. Tt lies off the south west point of Nova Sootia, 
 the Island being covered with trees, and five miles off lies 
 the Blonde rock on which the Cunard steamship Columbia 
 struck many years ago. By one o'clock in the afternoon 
 the Peruvian was safely moored at the Cunard wharf, and 
 the appearance which Halifax presented was peculiar. The 
 harbour was filled with shipping, more particularly oi steam- 
 ships of the larger class, and the stre(*ts were full of snow 
 piled up, in an attempt to clear the sidewalks, to a height of 
 four feet in the middle of the road. Thirty-eight years had 
 elapsed since T had previously seen the city, and in the 
 lower town I could perceive but little change. The sam(> 
 dilapidated molasses depots were there. The same tiour 
 stores protruded upon the wharves. Water street was 
 composed of the same identical class of woodeii edifices that 
 surrounded it in 188G, and only around the old Province 
 building was there any visible sign of progress. There some- 
 thing had been done . The new public buildings, in which 
 the Post Olfice and Customs D(^partment transact business, 
 and in which an admirably arranged and most creditabb* 
 museum is kept and cared foi- l)y Professor Honeyman, are 
 close by. In the museum there are the bones of the Masiedon 
 and Megatherium ; the skulls of pirates who, years ago, had 
 expiated their offences on the gallows ; relics of l<"'rench 
 losses at Lunenburg ; a pyramid ot Nova Scotian gold ; ad- 
 mirably got up specimens of ornithology ; the woods and 
 rocks of the Nova iScotia peninsula ; the sharks of Nova 
 
12 
 
 Scotia salt water, and the trout aiul othor ertnitures of Nova 
 Scotia trpsh water : all roi>aliiiii themselves in spirits, were 
 among the thini>s met with. LinivinG; the museum, proud 
 or what had been so well done, well attended and ingeni- 
 ously gathered from all plac(\s of (he earth, as from Nova 
 Scotia, we proceeded to see the fa(;e of an old friend. It 
 was a recently superannuattnl Customs' Oflicer, the fath(M- 
 of an honorahlr, and Ihe grcat-grand-fathev of a numerous 
 progeny. The hours Jlew like minutes. Next morning, 
 after visiting the citadel, which is on a v(n'y much smaller 
 scale than that of Quebec, although decently armed, having 
 some 18 ton guns within its walls, and shot and shell of the 
 latest pattern, in form not unlike the cartridge of the Enfield 
 rille, we looked at the barracks of the Royal Artillery, and 
 could perceive no chang<' in (^ither olhcers' or men's quar- 
 ters. Wht^re '' Paddy Erouuh." as the gallant colonel of the 
 period was atfectioiiately called, once residinl, thiM-e was no 
 change whatever. Apparently not a single roat of 
 paint had hvon applied i'or the lasl forty years. 
 The men only had chanced The entities, who had 
 with spur iiiid sabre strutted througn Ihat square, had 
 been superseded. ft was (juile the same in all th(; 
 barracks, and, what was even more astonishing, in the 
 upper str(>ets ol' the city. The Cathedral is still a wood- 
 en structure, and the common houses are the meanest of 
 their kind to be found an v where in this vast Dominion. 
 With her magnificent harbour, her thriving trade, and her 
 
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 s of Nova 
 rits, were 
 im, proud 
 1(1 ingeiii- 
 •om Nova 
 rieiul. Tt. 
 t:ho lathcM- 
 numerous 
 
 moniino-, 
 ;h smaller 
 3d, haviuii 
 hell of the 
 he Enfield 
 illery, and 
 en's quar- 
 )iu'l of th«* 
 
 e was no 
 eoat of 
 
 ty years. 
 
 wlio had 
 
 Linre, had 
 rU the 
 
 <.':, in the 
 I w^ood- 
 
 oanest of 
 
 Jominion. 
 
 , and her 
 
 iu\ 
 
 i 
 
 public wealth, it is astonishiiio' that a Corporation could 
 not hf found to pull do,vii such miserable specimens of 
 street architecture and build up streets that would be a credit 
 to the place. How dili'eii'ully has Mont real acted :* J*5he has 
 sjiared neither uioni'v noi' j)ii\.it<' I'eeliiiij^s in wideiiinu' and 
 improvinu' her streets. Hut, in llnJiliix, ;ill i.s at a standstill. 
 There is no i)Usii. Theie is iiolhiiiu'. in l;i<'t. but a cantan- 
 kerous urumblinu- about beinu forced into the Dominion. 
 There is dissatisfaction, even althouuh it must be quite 
 obvious that Confederati<ni will ultimately benelit Halifax, 
 and perhaps assist in rebnildin-4' t lie a^cd and the decayed 
 portion of what should he a Hourishinii i)l;i(e. At noon on 
 Tuesday, to the minute, ihi' Ptr/truin steamed out of 
 Halifax harl.>oui The " Delta." of the Dominion line, which 
 had arrived the day belbre. leaky, and with her wheel-house 
 stove in, dropped her ensii^-n ; all the vessels that we passed 
 follov^-ed suit| : the Peruviiiit li red two uuns in rapid suo 
 cession, dippt^d the blue ensign ol a captain of the Royal 
 Naval Reserve ; the people on the wharf raised their hats 
 and cheered ; and we were once more staitinii' out to sea. 
 A cold north west wind blew ; but the sea was com- 
 paratively smooth and eA'erything s(M^me(l ooing* in our 
 favor. The cabin passengers were, in all, about twenty ; 
 only two had come on board at Halifax, aiid there was only 
 one lady passenger. A more agreeabh' party neviU' sat down 
 to dinner. There were several gentlemen from Quebec, a 
 Spanish gentleman and his son. and a gentleman who 
 
14 
 
 said he had hccii hear and deer hunting in Nova 
 Scotia, and had visited India in the Jumna, while an 
 officer ol' the -Jlst regiment, the master oi' a sailing 
 vessel, recognised as the captain ol the " Dismal Swamp" on 
 board, and what was still to be added in the shape of com- 
 lort, there was a carelul and excellent commander, who said 
 prayers on Sunday, and sang lor us on New Year's eve. 
 The weather then was exceedingly pleasant and the ocean 
 was becoming warmer than the air. The vessel was mak- 
 ing ii20 knots in 24 hours ; and there w^ere Penny Headings 
 lor the sake ol' the widows and orphans oi seamen ; until the 
 barometer began to sink and the wind to ))lovv right in our 
 very teeth. New Year's day passed pleasantly. The com- 
 pliments oi" the season were passed round, and there was 
 champagne at dinner. Enclosed is a bill ol' tare lor one day, 
 to give you some idea ol what kind ol' living there is on board 
 the " Allan" steamship. Sunday last was i'earluUy rough and 
 the captain oi' the " Dismal Swamp," who evidently was ap- 
 prehensive, came below every now and then with the most 
 doleful news. The barometer, he said, was perseveringly 
 sinking, the gale w^as increasin;^, the sea was rising, and the 
 ship was pitching and rolling awfully. At dinner the cap- 
 tain, who had been in the Jumua a ship of such dimensions 
 that the ' Peruvian' could have been taken on board of her 
 and sent down the hatchway, like an ordinary piece of mer- 
 chandise and was most amusing from his atl'ectation of speech 
 and dirt in person, kept the table invariably in a roar, assist- 
 
 I 
 
16 
 
 <; in Nova 
 
 while an 
 f a sailing 
 i^wamp" on 
 ipe of com- 
 sr, who said 
 Year's eve. 
 [ the ocean 
 
 was mak- 
 y Readings 
 
 ; until the 
 ig'ht in our 
 
 The com- 
 there was 
 DY one day, 
 is on board 
 rough and 
 tiy was ap- 
 1 the most 
 severingly 
 Lg, and the 
 )r the cap- 
 limensions 
 •ard of her 
 ce of mer- 
 i of speech 
 oar, assist- 
 
 ed by the writer, who omitted no opportunity ot bringing him 
 out. He was indeed the most p)-ofo:ind donkey who had 
 ever escaped from Ireland in any capacity. Time, however, 
 wore on, and the gale increased. The fore sail was split 
 and blown out of the bolt ropes, the sea smashed in the sky- 
 lights ol the Post (Xfice, the companion door was lashed, 
 the temple of Agra and the '• Druid" of Wales were quaking ; 
 Mr. Monboddy was apprehensive and quizzical ; tarpaulins 
 were placed over the cabin sky-lights, the water broke over 
 the deck and swept a watch into the lee scuppers; the 
 doctor was sicker than his i)atients ; and people generally 
 were knocked about endways. Even this came to an end. 
 Ireland was sighted ; we had an excellent view of the hrst 
 gem of the ocean, the basalt rocks, and the isles of the ocean 
 oir the coast of Donegal, and whirling round the northern- 
 most point were soon at Aloville, at the entrance to Lough 
 Foyle where a tender came out to meet us to carry off" our 
 only lady passejiger and the mails. We dined, supped and, 
 went to bed once more; breakfeasted at half-past six next 
 morning ; entered the Mersey ; and by nine were in dock at 
 Liverpool. 
 
LETTER 1 1 [ . 
 
 J'mirnil of NapolPon HI— Two FrifiiiN-Aii ' Mncor of the Imiirnal (innirl — NVw "> m k 
 Trlhiiiic's l,oiiili)ii ('(>lTrs|ioiiiU'nt - I'lMlcrtrrniiiiil |{:iil wn>- -H.vdf I'.irk— Tlin 
 SiTliciillnr -Tlio Alhrrl Mcnioiiiil— I'lio Alhi il Hall— Simlli Kc(ii^ii)f;l<>M Mn- 
 wniiu— (iforge Cnillisliank—'J'hc llocsi' (Jimrils— A TroniMir Life (inaidson (ho 
 March. 
 
 t 
 
 LuNDOxN, I6fk Jannarif. l87o. 
 
 Within tlie past lour hours, 1. hiivo siuni twcuiv years 
 ol' European history carried to the lirave, iiol in "all the 
 pomp and circumstance ol' war." "'ml with an impressiv*^ 
 solemnity i'ar more touching'. The fonj) <l'El<it. the Crimea, 
 Magenta, Mexico, the autocracy ol' home rule, the splendour 
 oi' state ceremony, the solid triumphs ol' peace, the war 
 with Grermany, Sedan, captivity, exile, every achievtnnent, 
 every disaster, every event oi' a reign crowded with mighty 
 historic incidents seemed to i)ass before tliPi eye with the 
 moving panorama ol' I'auious men. I have just returned 
 from the funeral of Napoleon III. Di\ Charles Rogers, the 
 well known litterateur, with whom 1 had dined, at his resi- 
 dence at Lewisham, on Monday, having met me at dinner 
 again, on Tuesday evening at my present abiding place, 
 26 Blomlield Uoad, Maida Hill, Paddington, where I am 
 entertained at the cost of Mr. J. C. Roger, barrister, request- 
 ed me to meet him at JNew Cross, yesterday enroule for 
 Chiselhurst, whieh 1 agreed to do. and yesterday morning 
 
 li^ 
 
It 
 
 •fl— NfW VuiU 
 I*' P.irk-Tho 
 ii>in;;l()n Mii- 
 Giiaicls on 11 IP 
 
 iity years 
 
 "all tho 
 
 mpressivo 
 
 t' Crimea, 
 
 pleiidoiir 
 
 the war 
 
 leveineHl, 
 
 h mig'hty 
 
 with the 
 
 returned 
 
 iT-ers, the 
 
 his resi- 
 
 at dinner 
 
 ni^' place, 
 
 re 1 am 
 
 request- 
 
 roNfe tor 
 
 morning 
 
 set oH', from Charing Cross station, distant Irom Chislo- 
 hurst, about twenty miles, to luUil my engagement. My 
 relative, who was to come from Lewisham, failed to be on 
 the platlorm, and 1 concluded, had come up by previous 
 train and gone on to Chislehurst; and I went on towards 
 the i>alatial house ol mourning. At the station there was 
 considerable excitement. Many ol' the passengers were 
 from France, and indeed, with the exception of another 
 gentleman and myself, the compartment was occupied by 
 people of that nation, one of whom was a lady ; and in the 
 same train were the representatives ol the King of Italy — 
 an officer of cavalry, one of artillery and one of the line. 
 Chislehurst, is a small, but very prettily situated village. 
 It lies between little hills, and the road for some distance is 
 so steep that the cabmen led their horses during the ascenr. 
 At intervals of, possibly, twenty yards, two London police- 
 men were stationed, while others walked on in the middle 
 of the road, singly, and at greater intervals, from the rail- 
 way station to the very gates of Camden House. Here an 
 immense multitude, well dressed and orderly, were as- 
 sembled, and a lane kept open by the police from the por- 
 ter's lodge to the little Catholic Church of St. Mary's, about 
 a quarter of a mile off'. A squadron of mounted police, ac- 
 coutered as dragoons, but wearing the ordinary police hel- 
 met, sat on their horses behind the crowd, at the gate. I 
 had just arrived in time. The tunerjd procession was ap- 
 proaching. A friend, who had come down with me on the 
 2 
 
18 
 
 4 
 
 train, Mr. Du l^ompray. an olficor of tho Imperial Ouard, 
 bocamo lonvlully t'xcitod. He waniocl to broak throug-h 
 the crowd, which oi' course was impo.ssibh^ Then he es- 
 sayed to i>el upon inbles and Ibrms, Imt lor all these to his 
 astonishniciit. there was a charge, and he remained on terra 
 firma, jum]>iim u]) spasmodically, to get a ylimpse ol' the 
 pale iacc oi' the Frince Imperial The tri-color was iirst 
 seen emblematically suspended, trom \hi^ broken branch of 
 a tree, borne by one of the Paris onvrirrs, a deputation of 
 whom had come from that city to show their regard for one, 
 who, it well may be said, was the workingman's friend. 
 The cleruT 'bllowed. There was an Abbe, bearing a 
 golden cross in front of his breast, and then came a number 
 ol' priests, one of whom read portions of the service for the 
 dead. The hearse came next. There was an impressive 
 stillness, Kvery liat in that vast multitude, numbering 
 some sixty thousand souls, was reverently removed. The 
 hearse itself was only remarkable for its simplicity. On 
 the sides were the Imperial escutcheon and cipher; on 
 the top weie immortelles, with the words in black letters 
 painted on them "S M.L. Empereur du France," Napoleon 
 III.," and so forth. There were also bunches of violets, and 
 ])ouquets of these llow(U-s were thrown upon the hearse 
 as it passed by the enthusiastic by-standers. The horses 
 were jet black in color, and eight in number. Their heads 
 were ornamented with large black ostrich feathers, and 
 their backs covered with black cloth, on which were fas- 
 
 1 
 
19 
 
 1 Ouard, 
 throuiih 
 an he es- 
 ^so to his 
 d on terra 
 pso ol' the 
 was lirst 
 branch of 
 itatiou of 
 xl lor one, 
 I's friend, 
 earing a 
 a number 
 ce for the 
 npressive 
 mbering 
 d. The 
 city. On 
 iher ; on 
 V letters 
 N^apoleon 
 olets, and 
 lie hearse 
 le horses 
 eir heads 
 hers, and 
 were fas- 
 
 tened wreaths of immortelles. The ieadini>' pair were 
 guided l>y a postillion; the nexi were led, and a coachman 
 sat in sables upon he haninKM-cloth. 1 1 wa.s impossible 
 tor me to do more than catch a i^'linipse at the face of the 
 Prince Imperial. His plain, black suit, relieved l>v' the 
 l)road ril)bon of the legion oi honor, and the cloak that par- 
 tially covered both, were unseen by me. 1 simply saw a 
 great number of heads, evidently thr heads of men ol dis- 
 tinction, following the hearse. But it is known that among 
 those who followed the chariot, with noddinu' plumes, were 
 Prince Napoleon, Prince Lucien Bonaparte, who has also a 
 strong look ol' the lirst Kmperor, Prince Charles Bonaparte 
 and the Princess Murat, Viscount Sydney, Lord Cowley, the 
 Loid Mayor and Sheriilsof London, Marshals Canrobert and 
 Lebceul, and of the present French army — G-eneral the 
 Marquis of Kontier, Vicomte Henri Bertrand, and Oiiiieral 
 de Jumac. The Queen was represented by Viscount 
 Sydney, and the Prince ol Wales by Lord Suifield. A plain, 
 black painted, close carriage, brought up the rear of the 
 procession, but it was impossible to discern who was in it. 
 As there was no chance of getting into the church, I 
 returned as speedily as possible; through an arch, not diy- 
 similar to Hope Gate at Quebec, only that it is made of 
 brick, and over which was some years ago a water works 
 reservoir, to the railway station, and here I could not help 
 remarking the civility and intelligence of the London police. 
 They directed the passengers what to do. and whither to 
 
20 
 
 ffo. KN'luni fi('kt»ls \V(»ni ow^ road, now tickets anothor. 
 Yot, HO spocflily was (he hatk train lillod, ilial I round 
 my.scll conipcUcd (o lake i)assaiyo in a luunai^v van, whitdi 
 snicU slion^'ly ol lish. llorc 1 in<'t willi a i»('ntloman [rem 
 thi" Now York Tiihunc. with whom 1 IValrrnizod, and 
 h'arnod Ivoni him (hat thoro, cxisl.od an undo rsj;- round rail- 
 way, with il!s tormiuus noar tho Houses ol Parliament. 
 The yuide-book says this railway runs chiolly underuround 
 Ironi Moor Gate Street to Paddinii'ton, with extensions to 
 Ilamniersniith, South Kensington, Westminster, and by the 
 Thames eml)ankmeiit to the eity. The trains run every 
 few minutes, and nre lighted up with coal u'as, which is car- 
 ried in a oasometer on the top ot the car, and which has an 
 instrument lor indic-ating' when it is lull and when it is 
 approaching emptiness. This is an improvement which 
 U- /r^ i^\ might he advantaueously imitated by us. The English 
 
 
 railway carriage is, howoA^er, a disgrace to the age. There 
 is nothing c(mitbrtahle or elegant about it, and it is broken 
 Lp into boxes hito which it would do well enough to cram 
 pigs. The employ^is are, however, most attentive and 
 civil men. Indeed the underground railway carriages are 
 ipSBii a A improvement upon the overground carriages. For 
 the sail' of the gas-lights, the compartments only extend 
 half w\j up towards the roof, and they are better cushioned 
 and iinifehed The line station-houses underground caused 
 me very considerable surprise. At the stations there is 
 light Inmi heaven, and th<3 usual blaring advertisements in 
 
21 
 
 another. 
 
 I loiuid 
 11, which 
 laii from 
 /od, and 
 uiid rail- 
 rliament. 
 '.rgrouud 
 isions to 
 d by the 
 111 every 
 ;h is car- 
 h has an 
 en it is 
 t which 
 Jilnglish 
 There 
 1 broken 
 to cram 
 ive and 
 iges are 
 es. For 
 
 extend 
 shioned 
 
 caused 
 ;here is 
 leiits in 
 
 every imnuinii])l(' coloured ink Desc(M»diiii»- to <his sfatioii, 
 you present your ticket, which you have ol)Uiiiic<l above 
 ground, to an ollicial whom you meet upon th(? stairs, and 
 who permits you to pass as soon as he has nipped it with 
 his pinchers, and you give ic up on reaching your dcslina- 
 tion io another olHcial similarly placed. The distaiu^' 
 between Moor Gate street and Padding(on is aboulsix miles, 
 and the charge lor second class — a class which every))odv 
 seem to prefer — is only sixpence. On Saturday last I 
 visited Hyde Park lor th(i lirst time, and th(n'e saw, a little 
 beyond the beautil'ul Serpentine on which boats plied in 
 considerable numbers, the Albert Memorial, erected at a 
 cost of i;240,000, the last £40,000 being obtained from Her 
 Majesty's privy purse. It is one of the most elaborate 
 works of art of modern times. Crrand in conception, it is 
 magnificent in execution. In a sky such as ours it would 
 be resplendent with bi^auty. The tympanum oF each ol' 
 the four gables of the shrine- contains a large picture in 
 mosaic: the mouldings are decorated with carvi'ig, and 
 inlaid with mosaic work, enamel, and i)olished gem-iike 
 stones. The intersecting roofs are covered with scales of 
 metal richly enamelled and gilded, and their crcstings are 
 of gilt beaten metal in rich ^eaf work. The whole struc- 
 ture is crowned by a lofty spire oT rich tabornac'e worl: in 
 partially gill and enamelled metal, terminated in a cross 
 which reaches to a height of 180 feet above the surrounding 
 ground. Beneath this canopy is to be placed the statue of 
 
22 
 
 It 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 U 
 
 tho Princo in a sittiiiii' posturo. Tho jiodium is surrounded 
 by sculptures in alto relievo, devoted to paintine;', sculpture, 
 architecture, poetry and music, These are the most life- 
 like sculptures conceivable. The eyes are put in, and seem 
 to look at you. The eyes consist of some polished stone, 
 and may possibly be set in. The shrine is approached on 
 all sides by magnificent rows of g-ranite steps, and the great 
 platform and landing of the steps are paved with stone of 
 various colors. The columns which stand up on the four 
 angles of the jiodiuyn, consist of six ditierent materials, and 
 the plinths of lh(^ bases are of the darkest and richest 
 variety ol the red granite from the Ross of Mull. On the 
 pedestals nre groups of statuary, representing Europe, Asia, 
 Africa and America. Canada and Mexico are included in 
 the word "America." Canada is habited in furs, the features 
 are of an English type, and on her head-dress is woven the 
 maple leaf of th(^ mainland, and the May-llower of Nova 
 Scotia. In her right hand are ears of wheat, and at her 
 feet are a pair of snow-shoes, and a branch and cone of the 
 pine tree. There are no h^ss than one hundred and sixty- 
 nine Hgures, as large as life, sculptured on the iiodiuw or 
 sides of the monument. Among these is the figure of the 
 French architect, Mansart, who was born at Paris in l.V,)8, 
 and who invented the style of the roof (Mansard) which 
 now bears his name, the most cidebrated of his works being 
 the Church of Val de G-race, in Paris; the Chateau de 
 Maisons ; the Chateau de Geres, and the Church at Chnil- 
 
23 
 
 n-ounded 
 iculpture, 
 Host life- 
 aiid seem 
 ed stone, 
 ached on 
 the great 
 stone of 
 the four 
 'ials, and 
 richest 
 On the 
 'pe, Asia, 
 nded in 
 features 
 5ven the 
 of Nova 
 I at her 
 e of the 
 id sixty- 
 di 117)1 or 
 e of the 
 ill l.*>;)8, 
 
 I which 
 [s heiug- 
 eau de 
 t Chnil- 
 
 lot. I mention this circumstance pnvticulaily, the Mansard 
 roof being- at present a hivorite witli Ottawa architects. 
 The podium has likenesses ol Shakespeare, Goethe, Mil ton, 
 Sir David Wilkie, ^u Charles Barry, Wren and Inigo Jones, 
 and, indeed, gives a completi' (>pitomo ol the science, or 
 rather scientilic, learned, and accomplished men ol' a past 
 and a present time. 
 
 Opposite this beautiful '* memorial '" is the Albert Hall, 
 a very large circular building in brick, used as a Music 
 Hall. The (exterior nas an Egyptian aspect, and there are 
 figures all round it which would have done credit to that 
 best of Pharaohetic architects, Cheops. The interior I have 
 not yet seen. Guided by two ladies acquainted with the 
 intricacies of London, I found myself soon \\\ the kSouth 
 Kensington Museum. It is a large and beautiful 
 building, quite as Cheoptic in external appearance as the 
 Albert Music Hall. Entering by a temporary pas'^age, the 
 visitor makes his way through a turnstile, which counts the 
 number of daily visitors. Here, there are models ol some 
 of the pulpits of Ilciiian Churches, sucli as that at Milan, 
 actual tombs of deceased knights, staluai-y of the greatest 
 value, paintings, very many of which have been presented 
 by or "lent " by H. M. the Queen, plate avmour of every 
 conceivable kind, a black stalucsque head or' Washington, 
 the complete set ol Landsi>er's i)aintings ol animals, and 
 that master piece of painting by Mr. (jreorti*» Craikshank, 
 measuring apparently ;) feet i y 10. in which every stage of 
 
 1 
 
24 
 
 drunkenness is depicted with s^raphicness and power. (I 
 have received an invitation IVorn him for to-morrow, Friday- 
 evening, at 6.) One thing strikes me as ■qtuio an innovation, 
 ])ut a very good one, the paintnigs in oil are covered over 
 with glass. Even the large scriptural paintings lent by 
 Her Majesty, and covering almost the whole side of a room, 
 are thus dealt with. It would tire your readers to enter 
 into detail, and I shall not do so, but hurry off to Hyde 
 Park to interview Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, 
 the dili'erent monuments, the Horse G-uards, the Houses of 
 Parliament, the Thames embankment, Trafalgar Square, 
 Northumberland House, Park Lane, and other such notable 
 things. The number of vehicles that traverse Hyde Park 
 is something wonderful. They are of all descriptions, 
 except carts, and the liveried servants, the manservants and 
 the maidservants, indeed, are marvellously numerous. 
 There are life or horse guards, foot guards, soldiers of the 
 line, innumerable policemen, the humble and aristocratic 
 civilian moving about on foot. Everything is exceedingly 
 clean and well kept. London streets even, notwithstanding 
 the astonishing traffic, are superlatively clean. The omni- 
 busses are innumerable, and there are hansom and e^•ery 
 othe. imaginable kind of cab passing each other with a 
 dexterity which is inconceivable when the number of 
 laden vehicles which move slowly, and through which the 
 rapid vehicles must thread, is taken into consideration. 
 Passing over to the Horse Guards — the two mounted Nen- 
 
 ^ 
 
25 
 
 trios, who do not sit like statues, l)ut shake their heads, 
 move their feet, and raise their hands, as man and beasi- 
 occasionally must do— I may mention that in passing dowi> 
 the ^ircus a troop oi this richly attired corps came up or 
 down the Circus, as one part of Regent street is called. 
 They were preceded by the usual advance guard, a trum- 
 peter, with the Royal Hag attached to that silver instrumeni 
 employed to make music arise wi(h its voluptuous swell, 
 and with their gilded helmets, ])rightly polished cuirasses, 
 long boots, leather breeches, breech-loaders, sabres, and 
 black horses, pi-esented a dazzling appearance. I shall stop 
 for the present. In my next there M'ill ho, a description of 
 the Tower and of " the new palace of Westminster." 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Loii.lon, Mon, Women ami Donlcoy.s-Tho T.nvo.-Tl.o " lirol-caters "-Interior oi the 
 Tnw..r, aiul wlio lived an.! di.^.l Uwvv~T\w Rc-aliii-Tl.e JilI-os in En-laud- 
 Kogor Tic-libornc-T)u5 Housos of I'arliamont-Tlie toniLs of Dirlcpiis an.l 
 Lyttcn, ami ll.o Slatue of I'ul.ncrston In VVestm luster .M.hey-st. Paul's 
 Catluvlral, tlie Crypt, Xelsou and Weliiu^iou-A fog-Tl.c Middle Tempk-. 
 
 London, Jan. 24. 
 T' -day I have met men and women, girls and boys, 
 in the streets of this wonderful city, either in charge oJ 
 donkey carts or with baskets on their heads, making use of 
 
20 
 
 language which, without the aid of an interpreter, 1 could 
 not have understood. A rosy cheeked girl, with a little 
 donkey attached ;;o a little cart, is selling flowers in pots. 
 Her voice is pretty and decidedly musical, but I cannot 
 make out what she says. It is not Italian nor Spanish, 
 French nor G-erman, and it may be Hindostanee, Arabic, 
 Sanscrit, or any other of the not-too-well known tongues. 
 Being interpreted, it is " Flowers all a-blowing and a-grow- 
 ing." A man has a basket on his head in " Clifton Gardens," 
 as a row of aristocratic dwellings are termed, containing 
 vegetables, turnips, carrots, cauliflowers, and such like gar- 
 den stuffs. His voice is neither low nor sweet, like that of 
 Annie Laurie, but still his language is incomprehensible to 
 me. Listening intently, I make out something like " Cool- 
 leoflowyers." But, setting such matters aside, let me take 
 you into the tower, situated on the northern bank of the 
 Thames, a little below Temple Bar, and the great Church 
 of St. Paul's, wherein rest the ashes of Nelson and Wel- 
 lington. The keep or citadel of the fortress is seen rising 
 conspicuously above the rest of the pile as you approach. 
 At the entrance there are a number of the " wardens," or, 
 as they are somewhat irreverentiy termed, the Queen's 
 " Beef-eators," most fantastically dressed. The hat is of 
 green cotton velvet, plaited and having pieces of red, 
 white and blue narrow satin ribbon stuck loosely round the 
 band; and the coat appears to be of a greenish material, 
 with the Royal arms traced upon it in reddish coloured 
 
 
27 
 
 cloth. This is the uiidioss of the warders; full dress is 
 scarlet and gold, and seems to be magniiicent. Originally 
 the servants of the Constable of the Tower — an office once 
 held by the Duke of Wf41ington — the warders were in 
 Edward Vl's time appointed extraordinary yeomen of the 
 guard, and the appointment now is a reward for distin- 
 guished or exemplary conduct to non-commissioned officers 
 of the army. Entering an office in Lower Thames Street, 
 the visitor obtained a ticket of admission, for which he pays 
 one shilling, and must wait in the ante-room until a party 
 of twelve is assembled, when one of the warders takes the 
 party in charge and proceeds towards the armouries, the 
 "Bloody Tower," "Bell Towner," " Beauchamp Tower," 
 " Devereux Tower," " Flint Tower," " Bowyer Tower," 
 "Brick Tow-er," "Jewel Tower," "Constable Tower," 
 " Broad Arrow Towner," " Salt Tower," and " Record Tower," 
 Crossing the bridge over the moat or ditch — now made 
 into a parade ground, having for sanitary reasons been 
 dried up — in which there seems to be stationed a very con- 
 siderable number of soldiers of the Artillery and Foot 
 Guards, we are within the walls. It has w^ell been remarked 
 that " no one in whose breast an interest in the annals of 
 his country has been awakened, can approach with indif- 
 ference this royal castle of our forefathers." 
 
 The hoary walls rise before us amidst the surrounding 
 mass of more modern buildings, grim witnesses of a by- 
 gone age, symbols of the rugged time when, amidst the 
 
28 
 
 strng-g-los vosultiii!:^ from ill-dofinod rights and uiicoii<vo11(mI 
 passions, were laid the mig'hiy Jbundations oi' Britain's pre- 
 sent prosperity and j^eace. Dai'k shadows of the past 
 enshroud the gloomy labric : but they serve to throw into 
 strong-er reliel the justice, Ihe liberty, the intelligence, and 
 the refinement which illuminate our day. Here Queens, 
 Princes, and nol)les have perished on the block, while 
 others have died, wearied of lil'e, within the dungeon 
 recesses of some " Bloody Tower." Here was immured 
 Sir Walter Raleigh. Here perished the young victims of 
 the Third llichard. Here died some of the wives of the 
 Eighth Henry ; and here are contained all the weapons of 
 warfare ever used in England, cross bows, arquebusses, 
 spears, lances, two handed swords, halberds, glaives, and 
 ranseurs, to the present breach loading rifles, swords, ram- 
 rods and bayonets, being lormed into the appearance of 
 sunflowers, roses, lilies, the Order of the Grarter, and so 
 forth, with great artistic skill. The Kinus of England, from 
 the earliest times to that of JanK's the Second, when the 
 use of armour setms to have been discontinued, are repre- 
 sented in effigy on horseback, armed ra/>-a-pic ; and the 
 dress worn by th»^ "Oukr of Wellington when he was con- 
 stable of the tower; the sword and coat of his Koyal High* 
 ness the Duke of York wiien commander of the forces, 
 arms from the Eas* Indies of great value, and shot and 
 shell, breech-loading pistols, attached to a shield having a 
 grated opening through wlueh to take aim, chain shot, 
 
29 
 
 iiiiplemcnts ol' torture, the l)lock, with the iiuivk ol' the 
 headsman's axe still upon it, uud an elligy of " (Jood Queen 
 Bess," en route in her Royal robes to St. I'auls to return 
 thanks to God lor the destriietion ol' the Spanish Armada, 
 are among- the many things contained in the White Tower, 
 measuring lit) leet from north to south, f)6 feet from east lo 
 west, and having a height of 1)2 feet, the external walls 
 being" 15 feet in thickness. This tower was built ])y Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror, in 1070, and is a magnificent specimen 
 of Norman architecture. The netve/, or circular column, 
 around which the stairs wind, is a curious specimen of 
 ancient masonry. Over what is termed " (^ueeii Elizabeth's 
 Armory," is St. John's Chapel, one ot the lirst and most 
 perfect specimens of Morman architecture Lo :)e found iii 
 England. On entering the chapel the visitor is requested 
 to remove his hat, as the building is a consecrated one, a, 
 request which is, of course, instantly complied with The 
 chapel has a semi-circular teiniination ul the eastern end, 
 and the twelve massive pillars which divide the nave 
 from the aisles are also arranged in a semi-circle at the east- 
 ern end. The pillars are united by arclies, which admit 
 the, light into the nav<^. from the windows in the southern 
 aisle, and a gallery with arclies corresponding to those 
 below is above the x^ill^irs. The column and arches are all 
 faced with well linished stones, retaining the marks of t]n\ 
 tool, and laid in courses with thick Joints of mortar. The 
 floor is ot stone, in a kind ol Mosaic, and there are three 
 
80 
 
 windows of stainod gla.s,-; which woit^ added to the chapol 
 in 1240 by Henry III. There is, however, no church iur- 
 niture of any kind remaining in th(», chapel. The upper 
 room of the White Tower was once the council chamber, 
 and it was in this chamber that the Protector Richard, 
 Duke of Grloucester, ordered Lord castings to instant exe- 
 cution in front of St. Peter's chapel. The party of visitors 
 were next shown into the lesser towers with their secret 
 passages, torture rooms, and dungeons. But the Tower 
 was not only a prison. It has been a palace, a fortress, and 
 a prison ; and is now an old curiosity shop. Until the time 
 of Charles II, all the sovereigns of England occasionally 
 held their court in the Tower. A grand suite of apart- 
 ments, appropriated to the Queens of England, extended 
 from the Southern Tower to the south-east angle of the 
 "White Tower, in the vicinity of which was a magnificent 
 hall, the scene of the wedding festivities on the occasion of 
 the marriage of Henry IK. to Eleanor of Provence. At 
 this palace landed the beautiful Lady ilnne Boleyn, amidst 
 a great melody of trumpets and divers instruments, and a 
 mighty peal of guns, in 1533, as the wife of Henry VIII ; 
 from this palace the Queen 3-)roceeded arrayed in silver 
 tissue, 'with all the pomi^ of heraldry and pride of power,' 
 and a mantle of silver tissue liried with ermine, her dark 
 tresses flowang down her shoulders, and her head encircled 
 with precious rubies, to Westminster. Three years after- 
 wards she was accused by Henry of inconstancy, and 
 
31 
 
 of 
 
 At 
 
 dst 
 
 a 
 
 re-entering- the Tower in charge of jailers, on the 19th of 
 May, 1586, was on her way to Tower Grreen, where, laying 
 her head upon the block, the executioner, with one stroke 
 of his sword, severed it from her body, and the remains of 
 one of the most beautiful women that the world has ever 
 known was thrust into an old oak chest, and were imme- 
 diately placed in the vaults of the chape), in front of which 
 the scaffold was erected. The only words which this noble 
 lady uttered on the scaffold— this lady who was tall and 
 slender, whose face was oval and hair black, whose com- 
 plexion was pale, and her figure and features symmetrical, 
 beauty and sprightliness si^^ing on her lips — were " Oh, 
 Father! Thou who art the way, the truth, and the life ! 
 i hou knowest I have not deserved this death." The 
 Crown Jewels are kept, under glass, in what is termed the 
 Jewel Tower, a sentry of the Foot G-uards being at the 
 door. Only one party of visitors is permitted to enter at a 
 time, and the apartment in which the jewels are held is 
 superintended by a lady, who explains everything with an 
 ease and fluency, and correctness of language highly cre- 
 ditable to her good taste. All sticks and umbrellas are left 
 below, and returned to the owners on leaving the tower. 
 The first object of attraction in the glass case is Queen 
 Victoria's crown, the cap of which is of purple velvet, and 
 which is enclosed in hoops of silver, surmounted by a ball 
 and cross, all of which are resplendent with diamonds. In 
 the centre of the cross is the " inestimable sapphire," and 
 
32 
 
 in front of the crown is tho hoarl-shapcd ruby, said to have 
 been worn l)y tho Bhick Princo. Thr next is St. Edward's 
 crown, tho lorm being' lamiliar as that wliich is ropresontod 
 in the Royal Arms and on tlio coin oi' th<» realm. This 
 crown is made ol" gold, and is embellished with diamonds, 
 rubies, emeralds, pearls and sapliires. Then comes the 
 Prince oi" Wales' crown, of pure a-old, unadorned with 
 jewels, which is placed belore the soat in tho House oi' 
 Lords occupied by the heir appanuit. The I'ourth article 
 of note is the ancient Queen's crown, us(>d at coronations 
 for the Queen Consort. Another ol)ject of interest is the 
 Queen's Diadem, made for the consort of James II, Marie 
 D'Este, and jvhich is richly adorned with largo diamonds 
 and pearls. The sceptres are St. Edw^ard's Staff, the sceptre 
 with tho cross, placed in the sovereign's right hand by the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury at coronations, the Rod of 
 Equity, the Queen's sceptre, the ivory sceptre, and a richly 
 wrought golden sceptre, supposed to have been made for 
 Mary, Queen of William III, of " glorious, pious and 
 immortal memory." And this is not all. There is also, 
 under cover, tho curtana, or pointless sword of mercy ; 
 swords of justice, temporal and ecclesiastical, borne beiore 
 the sovereign at coronations ; the coronation bracelets and 
 spurs, the anointing vessel and spoon, the golden salt 
 cellar, the baptismal font used at tho christening of th<^ 
 Prince of Wales, and a beautiful service of sacramental 
 plate used at the coronation. Enough for the Tower. On 
 
38 
 
 tal 
 lOn 
 
 tht' lollowiiiu' cliiy I visited tlie Court Uoom, in whicli the 
 JlofftT Tichboruo case is even now aitnictiiiir some attoutioii ; 
 the judi:e.s, iiichulinu- the Lord L'hiel . I lustice Sir Alexander 
 (\)okl)Urn. havinu^ iliuid two meml)er.s ol' J'ariiainent lor c.oii- 
 teiiipt ol court, in cominentinu', ni a public lueetiiii^', on the 
 judicial proceedings already had in this most extraordinary 
 case There were lour jud<ivs on the Bench in their ser«i'e.ants' 
 wi«>'s — wi<>8 which u'ive these really line-lookinn' men the ap- 
 pearance ol'heini^' arrayed in one oLSarah v.Ta.mp's nij;htcaps. 
 'I he court-room is small, and not at all suited lor the purpose 
 I'or which it had hetMi oriu;iiially inteinh'd There are, how- 
 ever, nev\ Courts ol Law in course ol' construction. Imme- 
 diately on entenni'' Westminster Hall, in which there 
 are some hue statues of the Kings and Queens oi England — a 
 truly magnihcent specimen olarchitecture—i proceeded with 
 my c'lutjia^nof/s dit voya^'f, two ladies, to view the Commons 
 House ol" Pavliament, or rather the two Houses, but only 
 could gain admittance to the Lovvcr Plouse Architectu- 
 rally, everything- was palatial, and there were magnihcent 
 paintincs in oil, covered with glass, upon the walls ol' th" 
 passages, representing scenes in the chequered lil'e ol the 
 Hrst Charles Stewart ol lilngland, whom Cromwell and 
 Willie Uotl', with about a dozen others, deprived ol' his 
 head before Whitehall some lew years ago. The House ol' 
 Commons is not nearly so large nor so convenient as that of 
 Canada, and there is no open gallery lor the ladies, but 
 
 simply peep holes through a grating behind the speakers 
 
 3 
 
34 
 
 chair Wn\ liirthtT parliculars iiiukI be resin'vtul tor imother 
 letter. ' lia,vt' Ix'fu ill Si. Piiul's and Westiniuster Abbey, 
 nave seen the lomh of Dickens, the statues of MansHeld 
 
 an 
 
 i\ I (>r«: l*;tiin< rsloii, hii\ t» s<'eii Lord liVtton Imi'ied and 
 
 haM> iic'ii down in the erypt of !St. Paul's, viewi 
 
 n< 
 
 i\ 
 
 le 
 
 toml 
 
 )S (*; 
 
 Nelson and ol Wellinuton, scmuiiu- the funeral car 
 
 of the liittei, now stiinlin'.; in the crypt, and having' upon it 
 the I)uk<''s coronet and l)iiton. 
 
 ll<)\^■ terril)ly logg-y it was yesterday I St Paul's was 
 
 invisible ;il a distance ol twenty yards 
 
 The w'eatlier to-day is slio-htly frosty. 
 
 I lio to-nit>lit to he present at a "call" in the Middle 
 
 Tem]>h 
 
 "•^«.t-ah ' 
 
 L 1-: '1^ T K R V . 
 
 The (;mvc I'l « iiivrr ( idldsinitli— A t';iH to tin !<,-.— The KouBOHof Parliament— Lu-Ln, 
 ilu' luniiilc Acrobai— A l''of< ihutWius a log-Dopartuix' from London— Appeal 
 from a ln,is( — ^TIk- sydmliani Crysliil I'aliicc— Liverjwot, and " Holy .foe."— 
 liieuLSniiili, R. N. U.— On sfaoncf more. 
 
 London, February 2(3, 1878. 
 
 'i he Middle Temple and the g'rave of Oliver (xoldsmith 
 are something' to be seen in one night. A call to the bar 
 seems to he something of .< farce. The names of sundry young 
 gentlemen aie apparently called over, and they are crowned 
 
86 
 
 -Ln, 
 
 lith 
 bar 
 
 ina" 
 
 Ined 
 
 ^ 
 
 with vvhit«' wii;-8, uiudeol hoifst^H* hiur The IliiU ol tli«« Mitkllc 
 T«»mplo is, ar hiit'ctunilly spoiikiii*^, in line taste. TIkmc ;ir<' 
 busts in armour ol'all the irroat h'j»al worthies ol the realm, 
 ami the root' and nailery ns speciniens of anciiMit vvood.'ii 
 carving are very line imleed. The spec^'ators — speeially 
 admitted — sat in the uallery, and wert' permitted to <£h7a\ 
 throu!j;-h crovices in it, at the l)e-\vini»ed " beet-eaterN," who 
 sat below ieastiu|L^ siimptuously. There is something' ridi- 
 culous in the clas- exclusiveness ot so ijreal a country as 
 Knglaii'l is, with her nuiiinilicent I'niversities and yrand 
 Inns ot Court It was nin'ht wln-n 1 saw the grave ol ( )Iiver 
 G-oldsmith, near the residence, il'my memory serves me. ol 
 the Master ol the Middle Temi>le. It is a stoned up grave, 
 the name being sculptured upon (jne of the sides — 
 nothing more. My stay in England was drawing to a close 
 and did close after I had seen among other matters tlu^ 
 palace of Westminister, and the Crystal Palace at Syden- 
 ham. The first named palace is familiar to most people, 
 as being that used i'or the accommodation of the Houses of 
 Lords and Commons. Of elaborate workmanship exteriori- 
 ly, with its two magnilicent towers, and its beautiful situa- 
 tion, there is possibly no edilice, even in Paris, to rival this 
 iu grandeur of design and execution ; l)ut the damp, dull, dis- 
 mal, dreary atmosphere spoils all. The building was most 
 visible at night. In the daytime, the tog obscured <^he 
 view. Only occasionally could the splendid edifice the 
 creation of Barry's fancy -be seen when it was supposed to 
 
36 
 
 be day Nothing can fairly convey an idea ol' a London 
 fog, not even Hood's ' no sun, no moon, no morn nor noon' 
 of a dark day in November. People sometimes go to 
 theatres, i do. Having a leisure evening, I went to visit 
 ' IjU-Lu,' a female acrobat, at the Metropolitan, to see a play 
 perlormed and witness a ballet in true Regent Street style. 
 ' Lu-Lu' went up, as if by magic, a distancv^ of 25 feet, 
 alighted on a platform, threw a somersault and came down 
 to the stage again. The ballet was very tine. The dan- 
 senxes were superbly got up, and used their limbs to per- 
 fection. A peculiarity of the place was that there were 
 tables in the whole lower portion of the building, occupied, 
 paradoxical as it may seem, by the upper classes, at which 
 people drank wine ai>d smoked cigars. A dense atmosphere 
 filled the house, which, in my extreme injiocence, I attri- 
 buted to the tobacco smoked by such a multitude of people. 
 At midnight 1 left the riall of Assembly and tound out my 
 mistake . 1 was in the midst of a London fog. I could see 
 a light, that ol gas not brilliantly burning, but doing its best 
 to throvv a weak reflection of itself upon the surrounding 
 gloum. There was no lantern to be seen. There was no 
 human being near within eyesight, except Mr. Du Lom- 
 pray, n ho hung upon my arm. Wheels rattled, avd horses' 
 hoofs I'attered, cabbies shouted to each other, and my friend 
 and self waded through the darkness. Assuredly had I 
 been a>one the Regent's Canal would have been passed by 
 me elst 1 should have faUen into it and my expenses to 
 
 
87 
 
 ri- 
 le. 
 
 by 
 to 
 
 Liverpool by rail whether I am drifting would ha^ e been 
 saved A.ccompanied by Mr. Greorg'^^ Cruikshauk, otk* of the 
 most distinguished men in lilng'land, and some of my re- 
 latives, I left the Euston Square station, en route, lor the 
 bright skies, the gorgeous sunsets, and the callei air of 
 Canada, the land not of my fathers, but of my children. 
 How wet England was I The oanals were overflow. hI and 
 the fields, in many parts, almost completely ooverod with 
 water. But setting asid(» the ;intiquated railway carriages, 
 the little canals with their norse-towing paths attracted most 
 particular observation. In Canada one small steamer is 
 employed on a canal to tow a dozen large barges. In Eng- 
 land with its immense weaiih, and towering civilisation, 
 a horse — large but bony — don't put in two n's — f<»llovved 
 by a man and a whip, tows on a sidewalk a solitary barge. 
 England, with all thy faults, I love thee still; but this state 
 of things is surely too bad. AVith great institutions for the 
 aged, the sick. tL.r» '^^stitute and the orphan, and with an 
 extraordinary I'.irge heart in favor of the persecuted O'' afflict- 
 ed it is pitiaMe that England shows no mercy or the 
 canal tow-path horse Let me speak lor that poor brute. 
 Let me commiserate his sad condition. Let him be taken 
 into the humane consideration ot the English people, ns 
 they nobly did the condition of tiie .surrjvorjs of the ' North 
 Fleet,' and ever do the conditi'.-.i oC 'nose even only seem- 
 ing to need their aid. En^iaiitl I repeat, with all thy faults, 
 fogs, trees in mourning, and v;: "ncbed lands, I love thee still ; 
 
38 
 
 hnt For g'oodiipss *(raoious sake, g«t rid of that canal horse. 
 
 Thi^ Sydenham Crystal Palace has been nearly lbri»-otten. 
 
 In my hurry to o-et away trom a Jjondon log, I have almost 
 
 omitted the brain creation and handiwork ol' a gentleman, 
 
 Sir Joseph Paxton, who, like Adam, was a gardener. A. 
 
 series ol' pretty toyshops are the Hrst objects ol' attraction; 
 
 but, proceedinii' inwards, and upwards, and through and 
 beyond, hithei' and thither, the works ol' art become grandly 
 conspicuous and the "courts," — Pompeian and otherwise- - 
 are very line. That which I liked most to see was the 
 aquarium, with its crabs and codiish, clinging to rocks ii 
 their native element oi' swimming about in it. The now 
 celebrated — well known author -Dr. Charles .'ogers was 
 with me, and. after viewing the images oi' certain illustrious 
 personages, peers of the realm — statesmen of by gone days. 
 Pitt, and Burke, and Fox, and my trie id G-eorge Cruikshank, 
 whose bust seems to be everywhere in L ndon, I dined in 
 the palace sumptuously, of course at Dr. R's expense. 
 
 Hut I must stop. Fancy tiiat I have re ched Liverpool. 
 Here 1 met, after a night's stay at the; Alexandria, on 
 the Princess's Landinii staye an old and estetnned frnnid, 
 well known in Quebt c, with his sister, estimable daugh- 
 ters, and a nice little red coated lady of a niece. These, 
 with other excellent people, to the number ol 2()< . were 
 bound for Canada, or the adjacent portions thereof — th^' 
 United States. On thai stage, 1 met the gallant an I most 
 excellent comand(?r of the "Peruvian,"' who told ni > ' . it^ 
 
89 
 
 his usual naiveie, that tiie 'Prussian," iIum) lyin.- in the 
 roads, and in which I was to sail, w s comma, lied ],y 
 "Holy Joe." I soon discovered (hat Captiiia Dutlon, an 
 officer of the Royal I>^aval R...s,>rve, wheth-r reli-iously <»r 
 otherwise tainted, was a most .'x.^dl'iu man in r^'ulity and 
 a splendid sailor. 
 
 I shall reserve an account of ih.. trip ov.t lii<' Allantie 
 hackwards, and my own pitch int*^ ,hr do.-hask,'i, .vith 
 your permission, for another letter. 
 
 I 
 
 I. E T '1 1-: H V ] 
 
 
 My fellow passengers-lrelund at, n <listance-Sea Si^kness-A klckin- .shl,>-He;u,v 
 wciitlier-Cluirch Service-Cupt'iiu Diilton, R. N. R.-Thougats at yca-CaWii 
 passengers feeding In an Allan St.^amsliip-LefitureH, Rendin-s, Tonoprts, &v.- 
 The "aog-ba.sket"-aeiiesis-Arrivdl at eortlan.i. 
 
 Ottaw.\, April ilth. 1873. 
 The " Prussian," a vessel ol' ;V)()0 tons hurth.Mi. is one 
 of the finest of the Allan line of steamships. The dock- 
 porters having attached the lugirnao of the passeno-ors, .ti I 
 placed it on board of the tender, lyinu at th*' l^iiu-.-s.v land- 
 ing stag.v, and th.> passengers having 2'0!i;> on l-om'd of 
 •'h' iittle steam(M- were soon on the riec'x ,,{' th,' •' Pi'ussian." 
 having the blue ensign at her p...,,k, ,,,1(1 blue 
 Peter at her fore. it was a beautiful alt-.u.on and 
 
 i-l\ 
 
40 
 
 the Morsey was plicid. Diiiiiii>- immediately aftt;! 
 "•ettinuc into tiie ship, and secondly arranii'ini^- mv ne- 
 cessary ti'ax^ellniii' traps in No, 88, I almost immediately 
 found myself as it were at home There were all national- 
 ities amonii" the cabin passengers and nearly all reliaions, 
 if the disciples of Mahomet be excepted, but a more aj^ree- 
 able number of neople could not have been leathered to- 
 gether. Even be;. ■'^*- v^essei had reached Moville, in Ire- 
 land, which she did ' 'v on the day after leaviniz- Liver- 
 pool, th»^- weather being remarkably line, and Scotland 
 showing her snow clad hills as we passed th(^ Mull of 
 Kintyre, the notes of th.e piano were heard and the sweet 
 voices of the ladies— the womanly influence has a fine effect 
 on shipboard as it has everywhere else — melted into song. 
 Ireland showed patches of snow but the land around Lough 
 Foyle was green enougli to maintain for that fine country, 
 in which the most hospiiable people, almost in the world 
 dwell, the title of the Emerald Isle. Tuiie was thi' village 
 church upon the hill, a Jiici* icsidence near the watiM'\s edge, 
 a seeminglv half-fortified barracks, and tbero were cows, 
 and pigs, and horses :n the fields fhe gan.^Wiy was 
 opened, the platform and descending stairs put out ; a boat 
 came off from the shore, and, while the tender which had 
 come off foi the mails and was to bring back a nn I, had 
 gone to Derry, many of the passengers went ashore lo have 
 
 auntiiiff car throua'h tl 
 
 .1^ 
 
 ph 
 
 illag< 
 
 or 
 
 town of iVloville. It was evening before the ship left 
 
41 
 
 the Foyle, and then the llag'-pole at the extreme end of the 
 stern was unshipi'iid and stowed away. Seemingly the des- 
 pot on board, as C'.iptain Dntion styled hiinsell', apprehend- 
 ed ibul weather. He \\ as not, by any means, in error. 
 Scarcely had the s':iip a-ot fairly away from Ireland than the 
 sea raged and the wind I) lew. The top of the waves were 
 very white and a.- the rrjonntainons masses of salt water 
 raised themselves an-ainst the hnge fabric of iron-work, pass- 
 ing through them at con-^iderable speed, they exhibited a 
 bright greenness under the white-(;aps exceedingly pretty 
 to look upon. Than cam 3 a crash of w^ater over the bows, 
 over the sides, an} where, everywhere, and the vessel, stout 
 as she is, fairly trembled And the wind rose that night. 
 And the ship rolled and ossed. And the passengers sick- 
 ened and were afraid that they should die. And (he ship 
 still rolling, pitching and tossing, such as were sick wished 
 that they might die T got up as early as possible took my 
 seat at the breakfast table, ate, and was satislied. There 
 were not many there. One lady, who had frequently 
 crossed the ocean, some of the officers ot the ship, p.nd one 
 oi' two gentlemen only ventured down to breakfast. The 
 roughness continued, and the wind blew, to use a nautical ex- 
 pression, dead a-head. It did surely blow. The ship gave 
 first a pitch and then the funnel gave a snort She ascend- 
 ed and descended wonderfully. She rolled first on one 
 side and then on the oth< r. There was no sail to steady 
 he,r, and the massifs of water pitched into her on all sides 
 
 I 
 
42 
 
 and madf^ h(»r kick, riichiiii*' and rolling are bad enough 
 in their way, but they are nothinq- in comparison to a ship's 
 kick. A kick has the etf'ect of inakiii!^ everybody on board, 
 believe that a whale has run into the ship, or some other 
 substance equally immense. A kick lifts poople oil their 
 feet and pitches them everywh.M-(> and anywhere. Sea-legs 
 are valueless when tht? ship ki -ks. Then the only possible 
 thing to be done is to grasp at ■■, solid substance and hold on 
 to it. A. kick '^ I'eU ail over the ship, on deck, between 
 decks, in the cabins, and in the engine room. Under such 
 circumstances '^He p ' '."ress made was not great. On Sun- 
 day, 2nd of March, at noon, ii was ascertained that only 
 120 miles had been made in tht previous twenty-four hours. 
 The bell tolled for the usual cliurch service at eleven, but 
 the attendance was not pariicul irly large. It was much too 
 rough for that. With great unction, Captain Dutton dressed 
 in full uniform as an olficer o'' the Uoyal Naval Reserve, 
 read prayers, and a chapter from the bible when a psalm hav- 
 ing been sung service was ooik hided There is something- 
 most impressive about these leligious observances at sea. 
 The dangers of the deep so spec ally alluded to in the Book of 
 Common Prayer, and the actual t().^sing about of the vast ark 
 in which the listeners are seated, taking part in the service, 
 cannot but have a powerful elloct on the dullest imagina- 
 tion. These circumstances do L'ad to serious thoughts at the 
 moment although such is the mental organization of a 
 human being that the feeling is only momentary, and the 
 
48 
 
 01 
 
 larJ 
 
 lice, 
 
 Ina- 
 
 Ithi 
 
 slijjhtest accidental eh^ina'e of idea proceeding from some 
 commonplace converbiuion, or arisinu' I'rom matters taking 
 place on deck, oliliterates it. The chance that had come 
 over the spirit of the dream was visibly seen at dinner. 
 Pea soup, cod and sole,^. with oyster and anchovy sauce, 
 roast beef and baked potatoes, roast mutton and onion 
 sauce, roast lamb and gieen peas, pic's cheek and cabbage, 
 with the carried and other concomitants down to puddings 
 and pastry and the ejceteras of a first class ho+cl dinner com- 
 pletely change the peculiar i'fcling aroused by attendance 
 at church on shipboard Having partaken of sup]:)er in the 
 shape of a salt herring with boile(i potatoes, a Welsh rabbit 
 or sandwich — by whomsoever desired — the passengers 
 retire to rest at the usua' time oj" " out lights," and the ship 
 plunges on her way, o i ^<unday as on week days. On 
 week days every passenger doos his best to contribute to 
 the enjoyment of the others. It is not an easy matter to do 
 much in this wmv during a gale, and one day, Saturday, the 
 eighth of March, the "Prussian,'' had only made after 
 twentv-four hours steaming, one huinlred and ten miles. 
 People cannot well sing when they are sick, but as the 
 weather slightly moderated, there were readings and con- 
 certs, speeches, and lectures, both in the cabin and in the 
 steerage. Captain Button was especially amusing. He 
 sang and played on the piano and delivered a lecture on 
 "the whale," having before him representations on canvas 
 ot that warm-blooded seagoing monster, one the inhabi- 
 tant of the Arctic, and the other of the ecjuatorial seas. He 
 
Itrj 
 
 44 
 
 was graphic in his pourtniyal ol' tht; Sperm whalo, which 
 it appears can bite, and describe I several startling incidents 
 in the course of his lecture which had come under the 
 course of his personal observation. Tt was a capital lecture, 
 and Mr. A.braharn Joseph of (Quebec proposed a vote oi 
 thanks which the writer was called upon to second, and 
 did One Scotch lady on her li' st trip over the Atlantic 
 bound for Miramichi with a gi ntleman to whom she had 
 very recently been annexed devoted herself to the task of 
 amusing her rom}iai!;nom de iioi/(ii>:e, with indisputable suc- 
 cess She played and sansr well, and it seemed to Ve her 
 particular desire to make herself agreeable to all. but she 
 did not alone play, there was another lady who played ad- 
 mirably, but who coald scarcely be induced to take part in 
 the concerts, preferring as all the other ladies did to be 
 listeners. It is a pity, and " pity 'tis 'tis true" that she is 
 a Montrealer, could sinii'. and ^^ould r.otdo it. Music with 
 its " voluptuous swi^U"' tiould not be extracted from any of 
 the other ladies, but some gentlera'^n sang and the captain 
 sang and played, whenever his du<^y permitted, without the 
 slightest hesitation. Day after day passed in this way; but 
 there where some days when ii; was difficult to eat soup. 
 When the ship was in a l^ickini- humor and took it into her 
 head to j)itch a steerage passenger down stairs violently, 
 walking, even with good sea le<;\s, became a matter of diffi- 
 culty. One o-entleman, walkin j^ with the chief steward in 
 that space between the after and intermediate first-class 
 cabins — the eighteen and fifteer guinea cabins to be more 
 
46 
 
 explicit — wats lil'tt'd IVom his legs l>y a sea-kick, and pitched 
 almost headlong into the ciog-basket. Althouuh a person 
 may he severely bruised, and sometimes receives worse 
 injuries, such catastrophes ( rdinarily only provoke laughter. 
 It was so in this case, and, luckil), there was no need tor 
 the services ol' the doctor, and ({uite needless to rub the 
 injured man with paregoric, or soap liniment. Even these 
 amusements, however, muf-t conn to an end, and a very 
 religious commander of a ship, who beJieved lirmly that 
 Moses wrote the whole book ol Grenesis, may be taught by 
 the professor of oriental languages in the university of New 
 York City, although refusing to believe that which has 
 been told him by a passenger that that book is iragmentary 
 and contains several dillerent accounts of the creation 
 within the iirst lifteen chapters, although the purport of all 
 is precisely to one effect. On the second Sunday at sea, 
 the attendance at the church servi<.'e was very considerable 
 The sailors and steerage passengers were nearly all present, 
 as well as the cabin passengers in the saloon. Not only 
 did the gallant commandei' read the church services, but 
 he preached an extempore sermon, which, however, he 
 seemed chieHy to address t.) the steerage passengers, who 
 were all assembled on one iide of the saloon. It was well 
 meant. JSea, voyages must however, come to an end, and 
 after, 1 think, seventeen days of heavy sailing, the last two 
 days excepted, as were t!ie tirst twenty-four hours, the 
 ' Prubsian' arri^ ed at Portland, without accident or loss. 
 
T 
 
 POST OFFICE OKrARTAIENT, 
 
 OTTAWA, lotli.liily, IS".". 
 
 COKRKSl'ONDENCK FOU WK.ST INDIES. 
 
 1. The rates of iKista^'o luxm corroapomicnco for the West J ndies will, until further 
 
 iiotlcp, bean follows: 
 
 Via New York, 
 
 Letters |)or J oz. Nowspaptsrs, eiich. 
 
 toio;-::::::-::::::::::::::::::::::;:::i "><^^'^- '^«*^- 
 
 West indies (Danish) i;< cts. 4 ctH. 
 
 West Indies except as filiovc specllled. .. ■ -1 cts. 6 cts. 
 
 Demerara (liritisli Guiana) ^1 cts. 6 cts. 
 
 Via Halifax, JS'ova Scotia. 
 
 Rcrmuda Acts. 2 cts. 
 
 West Indies British and Foreign 12 ct«. 2 cts. 
 
 rOHTAGK RATE8 TO AUSTRALIA. 
 
 2. The Mail Hervlce by direct Hteamer between San Fmneisco and the Australian 
 C«)lonies linvinfj lieen diseo\itiuucd, .11 corresixuidei'iie for Auj^tmlla will, In future, hd 
 forwarded via England. 
 
 a. Tlie rules of postage via EngUuid will bu : - 
 
 For letters 1*1 Soul ham pton 16 cts. per i O/. 
 
 For letiuis via Brindisi 22 cts. per } oz. 
 
 Newspaiiers lua Southaniiiton (i ots. pacli. 
 
 Newspapers ria iJiindisi 8 cts. eacli. 
 
 MONEY ORDERS ON BRITISH INDIA. 
 
 i. From and attf r the first histaiit, all the Money Oiiler Ollice.i in the Dominion 
 h.'ive authoritj' t« issue money orders payable at anyplace ir. Britisli India, and vioe 
 t;CT%v«, to pay money orders drawn by the Money order OHlr > of lirltisii India upon 
 tlieui. 
 
 5. The rates of < ommlsslon are as under, and no one ordei' (!an be drawn lor nioie 
 tlian £10 sterling, but any sum may be obtained by means of two or more orders. 
 
 UATj-:s OF OO.M.'llShluN. 
 
 ForoiMers under and up to £2 sterling; oO cents. 
 
 For orders over £2 and up to £.5 sterling (JO cents. 
 
 For onlers over £5 and up U) £7 sterling 90 cents. 
 
 For orders over £7 and up to £10 sterling $1 20 cents. 
 
 «. Special care will he required In regard to the particulars cntorlng into the 
 ;ui^i^■e^', l-i'i mM the n<•ceb^;ary HiftMination will bo sui^pilcd bj the l'a6tma«t<^V'-<. 
 
lore 
 
 47 
 
 MflNJ-n' '•RDKHs ON ,MANIT<>|!.\. 
 
 7. From ;m<l iKit-r Ihc above mimed < Mtc iilsu, moiu'.v onlPis uiiu Im> Nsiud jh nl 
 Money (inli'i f^iJlccs In thf Itominioii, on tlic I'o^t oillrciit I'ort lianv, .MitnilM!)). at 
 the same lali' f)f Cninmissidii, ami nii tlir same <Mn(liti(>iis as (inlcrs aiv now "rinlVd 
 payaMf wlthm ilic otlii r i'r vIih"- <i1 the Unmliilun In like manner, 1 oit liairv will 
 iHsiieonli rs on any .Moiiev < Uder Olilee vvr liin Uie Domlninn 
 
 irtlier 
 
 each . 
 
 I'OST ("AKDS T(t AND KFJO.M TIIIv lINrri:i) SlAIKs. 
 
 s. From the first Instant, tlie l'n»i Caiils of CaMnia mav bo aMres' e,1 and inailefj 
 from t'ana<la t(.aji.\ lOaee In the I'lilted Elates, and will he dedvored ihrTe wiilioni 
 Charge, ll |.ie-pald two <-eiits each, l>\ aflixinj,' a.i oidltiaiy one cont. Canada lostaL'o 
 stamp ni addi'ion (o the one ceni lami) lhi"resse l ..n the raid. 
 
 !•. I lilesssoiireiK.ld I'oM Cani:. addr.s,sei| to t.h(> I fjlieij States will la.t l)e lor- 
 
 1(». I'liilod 'Mates Post Cards i osted tliM'e lor Canada prepaid I wo cents will in like 
 iniirmer he dolivefed atdesiinaiion in Canada without tiirtlier jiosiatjo eiiiutjo. 
 
 Pt)STA(fK iri'UN I5(' )KS. I'A.Mi'lILlTS, Ac. 
 
 ll- 'J''"' '"''te ol poslasefoheehaitfedo I Ihk.Us ; tmi h!( ts, oeeaslonal pilhlleations 
 printed eirculars, - iices eui rent, li!iiidl)llis, hook and newsi aper niafiiiscrint- nnnter's 
 prool slieets whether eor.-eeied or ■a.t.inai ;, prints. ilrawin};-. eni^ravin-s, pli.'no.'ranli.i 
 when noionjiiass, or in ci.s.s .'oMain r,- -lass, >-lieet mu-ic wheiiier | rinled o7 writ'- 
 ton, paeka^.'sot seeds, onttiii(s. i.dhoiis , lots, s<'ioris or f^raCts, i),,iiern> orsiunnies , f 
 merchandize or «no(ls, posiccljn Cana.la for deliver.v wit.un :he honiiidon will in 
 tnttire lie one ceiil lor I wo oiniees or traetl( ii thereof; proviiied, however thai no let tei 
 or other eommunicata)!! intended to servi tl-e |nir|>'sc of a letter he s,.'i,| or enclosed 
 therein, and tlial llie same Ix. sent in eov ■!•> opi'ii at both end- or ho!h ides or oilier 
 wise so put upas to admit of inspection, ii-,stas;o to lie prepaid Ijy postaKu stamp in nil 
 
 cases. 
 
 iUan 
 e, b<» 
 
 PCSTAfJE ro ECiYPT. 
 
 The followinsjare to l)e the rales for i^r. paid eonv.spondenee (Letters. Newspanei-s 
 lt<C2- '^ ''■'"' '"''"'''"'•^' '"''^"''''^ Canada aid all pla.'es in K'^y^t, -n-epf Alcjarulru! am) 
 
 For letters by Canadian Paoket, from lurhrr. 20 ots p. r 1 o/. or tract on of k an o7 
 
 I>or letters vKi llalil-.\. 21 ets p.er ', <>■/.. ir fraetlon ol' , i\ii o/.. ' «uu/.. 
 
 For every newspaper not exceedhit: i oz. in weight, whether sent l)v Canadinn 
 Packet riffliiuchee or I'la Halifax, () cents. >,> v.au.i<(inn 
 
 For lieok Paelj.'ts and Patterns, 2 cents per rate over and above llie rates now 
 charged to A k!\an(lria aii.i huez, as laid (own in il\e last table of r.ites furnlslied to 
 
 lietters, Newspapers, Ponk Packets .• nd Patterns will not be forwarded unless 
 
 Letters for places beyond As.siout muM be prepaid at the foregoinj; rate.s. but will 
 
 he liable toan adililional ehargeon deliver,-. , "i woi 
 
 Tlieiewill be no change hi the raten in- convspondence tf) and 'roin .Vlox.ndria 
 
 inon 
 vice 
 ipon 
 
 
 the 
 
The St. Lawrence &. Ottawa Railway. 
 
 The Shortest Route to and from Montreal 
 
 AND ALL POINTS EAST, 
 
 II Y .-)> MII.I.M, 
 
 AND TO AND FROM ALL POJNTS WEST 
 
 H\ 1> .Ml Lies. 
 
 FOUR TRAINS EAC.l WAY DAILY 
 
 Making Certain Connection with i^rand Trunli Trains, 
 AND WITH THE STEAMERS OF THE R^iYAL MAIL LINE. 
 
 GOING FOUTH. 
 
 Total 
 DlHtunce. 
 
 STATIONS. 
 
 1 No. 2 
 
 l)oat 
 
 i:x|irt>HS. 
 
 No. 4 
 txpress. 
 
 No. H 
 Express. 
 
 No. X 
 Aor-oiiio. 
 
 Willi 
 Sofa Car. 
 
 
 Ottawa 
 
 A. iM. 
 
 7 15 
 
 A. M. 
 
 10 .'{O 
 12 15 
 12 r>5 
 
 P. .M. 
 
 p. M. 
 
 1 15 
 
 ■1 00 
 1 10 
 
 1'. M. 
 
 1 ;o 
 
 62 
 54 
 
 I'rescolt .Junction . 
 
 Prescotl Wharf 
 
 .... 1 !• .T) 
 <> 45 
 
 IHI 
 10 
 
 
 1 
 
 su 
 
 
 c rr, u ) Toronto .Vrrivi! 
 
 '• *^' "•< Montreal do 
 
 1 
 
 P. M. 1 
 
 11 ;to 
 1 
 
 p. M. 
 
 "'.)'lib 
 
 A. it. 
 
 11 ;!0 
 
 10 -iO 
 
 
 
 
 
 GOING NOPTH. 
 
 ToUil 
 Distance. 
 
 STATIONS. 
 
 f 11 Tj S Toronto Depart. 
 (y. i.K. ^ Montreal .Jo . 
 
 •2 
 
 Prescott Wliiirf — 
 I Prescott Junction. 
 I Ottawa 
 
 No. 1 
 Express. 
 
 No. •{ 
 Mail. 
 
 No. 5 
 Exjiress. 
 
 A. M. 
 
 ".s"o6 
 
 p. M. 
 
 7 m 
 
 
 
 A. M. 
 
 (iOO 
 
 p. M. 
 
 1 10 
 1 25 
 3 15 
 
 A. jr. 
 
 5 :)0 
 5 50 
 
 S 20 
 
 1'. M. 
 
 4 10 
 1 20 
 
 No. "7 
 Accoinc>. 
 
 wltli 
 Sofa Car. 
 
 P. ^\7~ 
 "ii'm 
 
 A. .V. 
 1 2 . 
 
 ;i 10 
 
 (i 00 
 
 Comfortable SOFA CARS b.\- Night, and PAhAC'R CARS b.v Day. 
 
 NOTE— Passengers leaving Montreal or Toronto by Saturday Night Trains 
 
 reach Ottawa Sunday Mornin,^-. 
 
 20 Minutes alio wed at Prescott Junction for MEALS, 
 jA.ml^ ±t>3r "i'lclx-oTs T7-i« 3r'jrosoott «rxxxxction 
 
 To be bad at the principal Agencies aiid Stations of the i.<iand Trunlt Railway. 
 BAGGAGE CHKCKLCI TJIROUOH. 
 
 THOS. REYNOLDS, 
 
 i »ttawii, otli .( une. 187;!w MaJiaging Directoi: 
 
ailway. 
 
 i^ontreal 
 
 DAILY 
 
 IS, 
 
 [AIL LINE, 
 
 o. ti 
 
 irehs. 
 
 . M. 
 
 I 45 
 I 00 
 I 10 
 
 No. » 
 Aoooiiio. 
 
 Willi 
 •Sofa Cnr. 
 
 V. M. 
 
 t !0 
 00 
 
 1.0 
 M. 
 
 
 A. jr. 
 
 11 ;!0 
 
 10 M 
 
 B.SS. 
 
 Acccxrio 
 
 Witll 
 
 «ofu C'nr. 
 
 1. 
 
 00 
 
 P. Ji. 
 
 *"9"o6 
 
 *r. 
 
 10 
 ^0 
 V) 
 
 A. Jl. 
 1 S, 
 
 :i to 
 
 (! 00 
 
 ight Traius 
 
 iLS, 
 
 ictxoxx 
 
 lallway, 
 
 »LDS, 
 
 ng Direciw. 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 L E T T li) R I 
 
 liO'ning Ottawa — MdiitriMil -(toiior.il Noal Uow— II lilwj.v i .•iivi-iiiiig -isia 
 
 The " Harbor "-Di'parturc from I'oftlaml aivl arrival al Halliiix, N.K, 
 
 ••»R*. 
 
 I- 10 
 
 LETTER I I 
 
 -Tin 
 
 The rftssai,'f!l>i'tw<'ii> I'urtlainl and Halifax -I lilll' ix in WIiii.m 
 
 -An old Kri"M(l— TiicCHIadi'l— Tii("<S. I'enirinn -New Pa-si-nKcri-' 
 —The "Dismal Swainii"-ui) thoAtluati( — Arrival al Mvcrixx):. . . 
 
 Ilalir.ix .Miiscnin 
 Vh>'Jumn'i 
 
 V^lh 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Fiin'T.al nf Nai>olco i Ill-Two Kricnd.s— An OUiccrof the !in|MTiul (iiiard-Ncw York 
 Tribune's J^ondon <'i)ri'(>sp^)nd"nt— Unilori^ronnd Uiilwav -ll.vdi' I'arti— The 
 SiT|)cntiiio--Tlic Albert Nlcniori • — Albert, Hill-Tiie Hoiitli Keiisjnjjion Mu- 
 seum -( Jporgv ( 'riilkshink—Tlie Horse (iiiards— A Tn)o;iuf Life (iiiards on I lie 
 Marih \(t % 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Ixmdon, Mel,. Wom^Mi and Dd ikeys— Tlie ToWiM'— Tiio " Ueef-eat/M-s"— filc'ior »)f 111 > 
 Towor, and who lived and died tliero— Tlie Uoiialla-Tlie .rndijesln Riv^^Iand— 
 Ro!,'er Tiehborne-Tlie Houses')! Parliainr'iil— Tlie toinbs of Dick'us and 
 Lytlon, and llie Sratue of I'.ilin Tston In Westm nst.'r Alibev— St. I'au!'- 
 Catliedral, tlio Crypt, Nelson and \V"enin:jtoii— A foji-Tiie Mul lie teiiiiile... . . 
 
 2,-S4 
 
 LETTER V . 
 
 The fJravpof Oliver (ioldsmitli— A Call to the Bar— The Houses of I'arliament- l,u-Lu, 
 the Female Acrobat— A Fo',' that wis a foj;— Di'parlur.- from hondon— Appeal 
 from a Iv rse— The Sydenham (Crystal Palace— Liverpoo', and "flolv ,I(K'."— 
 lyieul Smith. R. N. Ft. -On seaoiiee more ". 
 
 34- Ki 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 My fellow passengers— Ireland nt a distance— Sea Sickness— A kicking shi|)— Heavy 
 weather— (Miurch Service— Captain Dntton, R, N. R.— Thoughts at Sea— ("abili 
 passengers feeding i" an Allai ^^t(!amship— Lectures, Reiidings, Concert.s <tc.— 
 The "dos-baslu't"— Genesis— Arrival at I'ortland -^i-Vt