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LEWIS & CLARKE, VtQM ST, LOUIS, MY WM OF TMB UIB80VM AND i^OtUMBId Jtrl Sttt, TO THE . y^t.t- PACIFIC OCEAN; , nXFOMiriO IV THB TXARS 1804, Wi6, k 1806, •T oasKR oi rat GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. « CONTAtiriNO DELINEATIONS OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, RELIGION, &c. iSDf tDe ^tUrt atifif, COMVItlO taoM Various Authentic Sowreet, and Original DoeumeHtff A SUMMARY OF THE STATISTICAL VIEW OP THE INIHAliijr NATIONS, ^ JPBOM THK 0,VfIOlAL COMMUMIpAXIOIl OV MERIWEtHER LEWIS. JUuttrated nith a Map tf the Country^ inktAUed by the Wettem Tribee 9f tndUmf* LONDON: VRIKTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST; REE8, 4N|lj||RM^ PATERNOSTER ROW. 1809. \^:,-'fe' 1, •■Mmiuttl- niiamutm^:. ft I'tl .J Printed by C. Slower, P«terno6ter«Rowt London. *0i'« MESSAGE - »■ ■ • , . • TROM.THE PRESIDENT, TO THE SENATE JkMD HOUSE OV KEPRESENTATIVES OP THE UNITED STATES. In pursuance of a measure proposed to* Congress by a message of January 18th, one thousand eight hundred and three, and sanctioned by their approbation for carrying it into execution. Captain Meriwether Lewis, of the Istregi^ ment of infantry, was appointed with a party of men to explore the river Missouri, from its mouth to its source, and, crossing the highlands by the shortest portage, to seek the best water communication thence to the Pacific ocean; and Lieutenant Clarke was appointed second in command. They were to^enter into conference with the Indian nations on their rou'Ce, with a view to the establishment of com- merce with them. They entered the Missouri May *four- teenth, one thousand eight hundred and four, and on the first of November took up their winter quarters near the Mandan towns, 1,609 miles above the mouth of the iver, in latitude 47 deg. 21 min. 47 sec. north, and longit; d« 99 deg. 24 min. 56 sec. west from Greenwich. On the eighth of April, one thousand eight hundred and five, they proceeded up the river in pursuance of the objects prescribed lo them. A letter of the preceding day, April seventh, from Captain Lewis, is herewith communicated. During his stay among the Mandans, he had been able to lay down ^he Missouri, according to courses and distances taken on his passage up it, corrected by frequent observations of lon- gitude and latitude; and to add to the actual survey of this ptortion of the river, a general map , of the country between Q -^ j ^9 Mississippi and Pacific, from the thirty-fourth to the 'W ▲ a ■Y^ K ^ A^- ^' ^ I- iv MRSSAGE. fifty-fourth degrees of latitude. These additions are from infonnatioD collected from Indians with whom he had opportunities of communicating, during his journey and residence with them. Copies of this map are now presented to both Houses of Congress. With these I communicate also a Statistical View, procured and forwarded by him, of the Indian nations inhabiting the territory of Louisiana, and the countries adjacent to its northern and western bor- ders; of their commerce^ and of other interesting circum- stances respecting them. TH. JEFFERSON. .1 .'.■,, '*i Y^^ .i\ ' INTRODUCTION. ;« : ' ' V r^.i . « >.' The benefits that arise from the discoveries of unknown regions, are too numerous to be here mentioned. From the knowledge of geography are derived many intrmsic advantages. It not only feasts the imagination with the amusement of novel descriptions; but is the life of commerce, whence the arts and sciences receive succour, and a reciprocal benefit. It cannot fail of giving pleasure to the philanthropic mind, to behold implements of agriculture put in thfi hands of the uncivilized barbarian, to provide and protect him from the precarious reliance on the chase for a scanty sustenance. The time is not far distant, in all moral pro- bability, when the uncultivated wilds of the interior part of the Cohtinent, which is now only inhabited by the tawney sons of the forest, and the howling beasts of prey, will be converted into the residence of the hardy votaries of agri- culture, who will turn those sterile wildernesses into rich> cultivated, and verdant fields. VI INTRODUCTIOK. I It may be suggested, that the sufferings of the Abo- rigines, ironi the importation of foreign diseases, and the more baneful influence of spirituous liquors^ more than counterbalance the benefits they receive from civilization. These objections, it must be frankly confessed, are very powerful. But it is hoped, that vigilant measures will be pursued, by a government professed to be founded on the principles of humanity and wisdom, to prohibit the intro- duction of spirituous liquors among them. The small-pox has raged, when little or no communication was held with them. Provi«ions are already made to introduce vaccine inoculation among them, which will prevent those ho.rid ravages that are mentioned in the course of the work. It may be thought matter of surprise, that regions, upwards of three thousand miles in length, bordering on a country inhabited by an inquisitive and enterprising people, who could avail themselves of the benefit of a lucrative fur trade, chould remain so long unexplored. Many impedi- ments have retarded the tour, that has laid open to view a country hitherto hidden from the knowledge of the civilized ^American. Attempts have been made by the great discoverer, Capt, Cook, to find a communication by water in the northern regions between the Atlantic and'Pacific oceans. Whether the two great oceans are joined together in those regions remains an uncertainty ; but the rigours of a frigid zone evinced, that though they joined, it was impracticable to navigate from one to the other. To travel among the Indians, is but too often thought the road that inevitably leads the unfortunate adventurer to an untimely death. The barbarity of the Indians in war is proverbial -, but in time of peace, hospitality and humanity are traits justly due to their character. It is a judicious saying of an eminent traveller among them, that ** in time of peace no greater friends^ in time of war no greater ene- mies. »» I INTRODUCTION. tH Before the acquisition of Louisiana by the United State), the jealous disposition of the Spaniards debarred all advcn- tarcs for discoveries from that quarter. These impediments would compel the discoveries of the western part of the continent, to be made by a voyage by the way of Cape Horn, which would be too long, arduous, and expensive to entice the enterprize. In the year 1769, the celebrated traveller Alexander Mac- kenzie embarked from Fort Chcpewyan, in latitude 38deg. N. longitude uodeg. W. from Greenwich, and with the greatest fortitude, under embarrassing and perilous cir- cumstances, he explored with assiduity the northern region to nearly the 70th degree of north latitude, where obstruc- tion by ice, compelled him to return to Fort Chepewyan. Thence he ascended the Peace River to its source, and thence to the Pacific Ocean ; making many discoveries, which he judiciously narrated in his Journal. The following statement of the commerce of the Mis- souri, is made by a gentleman, which wilj sufficiently show the advantages that arise from it. *' The products which arc drawn from the Missouri, art obtained from the Indians and hunters in exchange for merchandize, ^^hey may be classed according to the sub* joined table. Castor Otters Foxes -\ Pouha Foxes V Tyger Cats j Raccoons 4- d. c. dols. < sts. 12281 lbs. at 1 90 14737 20 1267 skins 4 -mm 5068 -« 802 skins 50 401 — •' - 4248 skins S5 1062 — ^ yellow*"^' ^''^' *""*} «^*^ '^i^' « - 5082 - ?uce« * • 2541 skins 2 1— 5082 •— ^ Carried forward 31432 SO &■ i V. .■J .' I ^ rll 1= % im IMTftdDUCTIOK. i • Brought over 31432 SO Buifaloeii 1714 skins 3 — 5143 — Dressed cow hides 189 skins 1 50 983 50 Shorn deer skins 96936 lbs. 50 38770 40 Deer skins, with hair - 6381 skins 50 3190 50 Tallow and fat -8313 lbs. SO 1662 €0 Bears oil - - 2310 galls. 1 28 2472 — Muskrats .^ lUTArti^nc • m ( - S. 77d7l 20 (ili *' The calculation in this table, drawn from the most correct accounts of the produces of the Missouri, during fifteen years, makes the average of a common year 77>971 dollars. '* On calculating, in the same proportion, the amount of merchandize entering the Missouri, and given in ex- change for pdtrles, it is found that it amounts to 61,250 dollars, including expenses, equal to one-fourth of the value of the merchandize. *. *' The result is, that this commerce gives an annual pro- fit of 16,721 dollars, or about 27 percent. ** If the commerce of the Miwouri, without encourage- ment, and badly regulated, gives annually so grieat a profit, may we not rest assured that it will be greatly augmented, should government direct its attention to it. It is also ne- cessary to observe, that the price of peltry fixed by this table, is the current price in the Illinois : if it weite regu- iated by the prices of London, deducting the expenses of transportation, the profit according to our calculation, would be much more considerable. *' If the Missouri, abandoned to savages, and presenting "But one branch of commerce, yields such great advantages, ip proportion to the capital employed in it, what might ^e f- - V ^ INTRODUCTION. ^ it not hope^ if some merchants or companies with large capi- uit and aided by a population extended along the borders of the river, should turn their attention to othe^ branches of the trade, which they might undertake (I dare say) with a certainty of success, when wc consider the riches buried in its banks, and of which I have endeavoured in these^iotcs tp give an idea. >t ' '"r* . AN ESTIMATE OF THE PRODUCE OF THE SEVERAL ^ , MINES. " Mine a Burton ....550,000lbs. mineral, estimated to pro- duce 66§, is 336,6661 lbs. * kad, at 5 dollars, is To which add 30 dollars, (on 120,000 lbs. manufactured) to each thousand, is 18,333 33 3,600 — 21,933 33 « Old Mines....800,000lbs. mi- neral, estimated to produce 66}, is 133,333ilbs. lead at 5 dollars, per cwt. is 6,666 67 , > 9 *« , !, -.♦' .tf- • if j;-. .«*>j»;k. - '«:■ i-- TRAVELS TO THt -.:<• PACIFIC OCEAN. * V % On the 14th of May, 1804, we embarked from St Louis on the expedition, having, previous to our Setting out; provided ourselves with every thing re- quisite for the prosecution of the voyage, particu- larly with large quantities 6f ammunition and fire- arms, for the pufpose of protecting us from the hos- tile attacks of the natives, and for procuring food. We likewise took a large quantity of ornaments, consisting of medals^ trinkets, &c. for the purpose of gaining a favourable reception among the Indi^ ans, and obtaining such articles of use, as our 3itua- ii(^ might require. Our party, consisting of forty-three, was g€^ nerally divided into two companies, the one for hunting, who ti5avelled by land ; the other to remain in our v^^ater conveyance, which consisted only of two small perogues and a batteau. Larger vessels would have obstructed us in ascending the Missouri near its source. Both companies joined sLt night, when we were compelled to encamp by the banks of the river; our vessel being too light to sail except by day. ' , Ml ll IV i, •i' Jl ' V VEW TRAVELS ' The country bordering on the Missouri, pro- duces immense quantities of fur, which can be purchased of the Indians for a mere trifle, and may be easily transported from the head of this river to the Columbia river at a small expence, on account of the low rate at which horses might be purchased for the purpose from the Snake Indians, who inhabit this mountainous dis- trict ; from the Columbia river they may be con- veyed to China by a very short route. •-; This trade would give employment to an im- mense number of inhabitants ; and the country is sufficiently luxuriant for the population of an im- ,,^ mense colony. MISSOURI. >v*<--^'v;> The Missouri is already ranked among the greatest rivers. It is an object of astonishment to the whole world. The uninformed man admires its rapidity, its lengthy course, and the salubrity of its waters, and is amazed at its colour; while the reflecting mind admires the innumerable riches scattered on its banks, and, foreseeing the future, beholds already this rival of the Nile flowing through countries as fertile, as populous, and as extensive as those of Egypt. ^^ The Missouri joins the Mississippi five leagues above the town of St. Louis, about the 40th deg. of north lat. It is necessary to, observe, that after uniting with the Mississippi, it flows through a space of 1200 miles, before it empties itself into the : c.'-iS; * Among the indiaxs. 8 Gulf of Mexico. As this part of its course is well known, I shall speak of the Missouri only. I ascended about 600 leagues, without perceiv- ing a diminution either in its width or rapidity. — The principal rivers which empty into the Mis- souri, are, as you ascend, the Gasconade, the ri- ver of the Osages, the two Charaturns, the Great river, the tivgt Des Canips, Nichinen, Bafoney, the Great and Little Nimaha, the Hver Plate, the rver De Sioux, the L'Eau Qui Court. As far as twenty-five leagues above its junction with the Mississippi, are to be found different set- tlements ot'Anierican families, viz. at Bonhomme, and Femme Osage, &c. ; beyond this, its banks are inhabited only by savage nations — the Great and Little Osages, settled one hundred and twenty leagues on the river of that name; the Canips, the Ottos, the Panis, the Loupes or Panis Mahas, the Mahas, the Poukas, the Ricaras, the Mandanes, the Sioux : the last nation is not fixed on the .banks of the Missouri, but habitually goes there to hunt. The banks of the Missouri are alternately woods and prairies: it is remarked, that the higher you ascend this river, the more common are these prai- ries ; and they seem to increase every year by the fires which are kindled every autumn by the sa'- vages, or white hunters> either by chance, or with the design of facilitating their hunting. ■ The waters of the Missouri are muddy, and con- tain throughout its course a sediment of very fine sand, which soon precipitates ; but this circum- B 2 if 'I i ^ NEtr TRAVEL9 * Stance, wliich renders them disatgreea^le to i\\'€ sight, takes nothing from their salubrity. Experience has proved, that the waters of the Missouri are more wholesome than those of the Ohio, and the upper Mississippi. Tlie rivers and streams, which empty into the Missouri, 'below the river Plate, are. clear and limpid ; above this river, they are as muddy as the Missouri itself. This is occasioned by beds of sand, or hills of a very fine white earth, through which they take thei^ course. ' The feed of the Missouri is obstructed with banks; sometimes of sand, and sometimes of gra- vel, which frequently change their place, and con- sequently render the navigation always uncertain. Its course is generally West by North West. To, give a precise idea of the incalculable riches scattered on the baifks of the Missouri, wotild re- quire unbounded knowledge. The flats are covered wiVh huge trees ; the Liard or poplar. The sycamore, out of one piece of which ire made canoes, which carry. nearly 18,0W cwt. The maple, whith atTords the inhabitants an agreeable and wholesome sugar. The wild cherry tree, and the red and black walnut, so useful in joiners' work. The red and white e/w, neces* sary to cartwrights. The Trkicanthos, which, when well trimmed, forms impenetrable hedges. The water- willow, the white and red mulberry tree, &c. &c. , Oh the shores arefound in abundance, the white r '■ ■'•■ii • to tKe • rs of the ise of the ivers and below the bove this mri itself, hills of a they take Eted with les of gra- , and con- uncertain. Vest. able riches woiild re- the Liard e piece of irly 18,0W abitants an vild cherry so useful elniy neces- wsy which, .ble hedges, d mulberry e, the white .m A9I0NO THE INDIANS. 5 and black oak, proper for every kind of ship- wrights' and carpenters' work ; the pine, «o easily worked ; and, on the stony noountains, the durable cedar. It would he impossible to detail all the specie^ > of trees, even those unknown in other countries, and the use that can b^ made of them, of which ^:z are still ignorant. . The plants are still more numerous ; I will pass * jightly over this article, for *the want of sufficient botanical knowledge. The Indians are well ac- quainted with the virtues of many of them ; they make use of them to heal their wounds, and to poison their arrows; tjiey also use various kinds of Savoyanues, to dye different colours^ they have one which is a certain and prompt ^u^e for the ve- nereal disease, ^ The lands on tl>e borders of the Missouri are excellent, and when cultivated are capable of yield- ing abundantly all the productions of the temper- $' ate^ and even some of t|]e warm climates ; wheats maize, and every species of grain, Irish potatoes, and excellent sweet potatoes. Hemp seems here to he an indigenous plant: even cotton succeeds, though not so well as in more southerly countries. Its culture, however, yie,lds a real advantage to the inhftbitants settled on the banks of the Missouri, who find in the crop of a field of about two acres ^ufiicient for the want^ of their famijiies. The natural prairies are a great resource, being of themselves excellent pasturages^ and facilitating the labours of (.he man who is just settled^ who cani ■# &' ■■•JTr fv h 11. !ii w:i i It i1 , ■^ ¥ 5H" f^: 1 •$' NEW TllAVEtS , ' thus enjoy, with little labour, from the first year a considerable crop. Clay fit for making bricks is very common. There is also Fayance clay, and an- other species of clay, which in the opinion of in- telligent persons is the real koaolin to which the porcelain of China owes the whole of its reputation. ' There are found on the borders of the Missouri, many springs of salt water of every kind, which will yield more than sufficient salt for the consump- tion of the country, when it shall become inhabited. Salt-petre is found here in great abundance, in numberless caves, which are met with along the banks of the river. The stones are generally calcareous and gates. There is found one also, which I believe to be pe- culiar to the b^nks of the Missouri. It is of a blood red colour, compact, soft under the chisel, and hardens in the air, and is susceptible of a most beautiful polish. The Indians use it for their calumets; but from the extent of its layers, it might be easily employed in more important works. wThey have also quarries of marble, of which we only know the colour ; they are streaked with red. One quarry is well known, and easily worked, namely, a species of plaster, which we are assured is of the same nature as that of Paris, and of which the United States make a great use : we also found volcanic stones, which demonstrate the ancient existence of unknown volcanoes; We were confirmed in the belief, that there were volcanoes in some of their mountains, by the intelligence that we received from the Indians, tt n tt tt AMONG THE INDIANS. 7 who informed us, *' that the Evil Spirit was mad ^' at the Red People, and caused the mountains " to vomit fire, sand, gravel, and large stones, to '* terrify and destroy them; but tlie Good Spirit *' had compassion on them, and put out the fire, " chased thtEvil Spirit out of the mountains, and *' left them unhurt; but when they returned to " their wickedness, the Great Spirit had permitted the Evil Spirit to return to the mountains again, and vomit up fire ; but on their becoming good, " and making sacrifices, the Great Spirit chased away the Evil Spirit from disturbing them, and for forty snowsf he had not permitted him to ** return.*' ' . w' The short stay we have generally made among the savage nations, has prevented us from making those researches which would have supplied us with more extensive information, respecting the various mines found on the borders of the Mis- souri. We know with certainty, only of those of iron, lead, and coal ; there is, however, no doubt, but that there are some of tin, of copper, of silver, and even of gold, according to the account of the Indians, who have found some particles or dust of these metals either on the surface of the earth, or on'the banks of small torrents. * / - I consider it a duty at the same time to give an idea of the salt mines, and the salines, which are found in the same latitude on the branches of the river Arkansas. At about 300 miles from the Forty Years. .1 . .41..., m '!(' ; Vi 'li! !! m t-'v f ' KEV T1AT£I» - " village of the Great Osages, in a westerly direc* tion, after having passed several branches of the river Arkansas, we find a flat, ofabont 15 leagues in diameter, surrounded by hills of an immense extent : the soil is a black sand, very fine, and so bard that the horses hardly leave a trace. During a warnfi and dry season, there exhales from this flat, vapours, ^vhich, after being condensed, fall on this black sand, and cover it with an incrustation of salt, very white and fine, and about half an inch thick: the rains destroy this' phenomenon. At about 18 miles from this flat, are found mines of genuine salt, near the surface of the earth. The Indians, who are well acquainted with them, are obliged to use levers to break an.d raise it. *' ' ' At a distance of about 15 leagues from the flat, of which we have just spoken, and in a southerly direction, there is a second mine of genuine salt, of the same nature as the other. These two niines differ only in colour : the first borders on a blue, the second approaches a red. Muoh further south, and still on the branches of theArkan-^ sas, is a saline, which may be considered as one of the naost interesting phenomena in nature. On the declivity of a small hill there are five holes, about a foot and a half in diameter, and two in depth, always full of salt water, without ever overflowing. If a peison were to draw any of this Water, the hole would immediately fill itself; und about ten feet lower, there flows, from this same hill, a large stream of pure and sweet water. If this country were peopled, the working of M Sik ihi ' AMONG THE INDIANS. 9 these genuine salt mines would he very easy, by means of the river Arkansas. This species of sale, is found by experience to be far preferable to any other for salting provisions. Should these notes, imperfect and without order as they are, but in every respect founded on truth, and observations made by myself, excite the curi- osity of men of intelligence, capable of investi- , gating the objects, which they have barely sug- gested; I do not duubr, but that incalculable^ advantages would result to the United States, and especially to the district of Louisiana. It is impossible to give an exact account of the peltries, which are brought down the Mississippi, ^ as they are all immediately transported to Canada, - without passing any port of this country : we can obtain a true statement only from the settlements, on the lakes. It is but a short time since jthe Red River hsis been explored. ' -. * ** • , " After leaving the river Des Moens, the fur ^ trade from the Upper Missouri is carried on en- tirely by British houses, and ,a||nost the whole of the fur which is obtained from the other Indian ^« traders is also sent to Canada,* where it commands much higher prices than at New-Orleans; where, in fact, there is no demand. It is also necessary , to observe that, the further North we go, the greater is the value of the peltries. It is but a few \ears since peltries have been exported from America by way of the Ohio. It is to be desired that the eastern part of America ^ould encouFa«;e ''J K 2^ .i^ 10 NEW TRAVELS this exportation, by raising the prices of peltries to nearly those oF Canada. Tlie countries at the head of the Missouri and of llie Cohimhia rivers bear a great similarity; being coUl and very sterile, except in pasturage only. At the foot of the mountain, at the head of the Missouri, lives a tribe of Indians called Ser- pentine or Snake Indians -, who are the most abject and miserable of the human race, having little be- sides the features of human beings. They live in a most wretched state of poverty, subsisting on berries and fish; the former they manufacture into a kind of bread, which is very palatable, but possesses little nutritious qua- lity. Horses form the only article of value which they possess, — in these the country abounds; and in very severe winters they are compelled to sub- sist on them, for the waiit of a better substitute for food. They are a very harmless inoffensive people ; when we first made our appearance among them they were filled wjth terror, many of them fled, while the others who remained were in tears, but were soon pacifiec| by tokens of friendship, and by presents of beads, &c. which soon con- vinced them of our friendly disposition. ; The Snake Indians are in their stature crooked, which is a peculiarity, as it does not characterise any other tribe of Indians, that came within the compass of our observation. To add to this de- formity, they have high cheek bones, large light coloured eyes, and are very meagre, which gives them a frightful aspect. ##' AMONG THE INDIANS. 1| For an axe we could puK base of tliem a good lorse. We purchased twenty-seven from them, Ithat did not cost more than one hunJrcd dol- lars; which will be a favoui-ble circumstance for Itransporting fur over to the Colombia river. At the head of the Columbia river, resides a Itribe by the name of Paliotepailors, or Flatheads ; the latter name they derive from an operation, [that renders the top of the head flat ; which is performed while they are infants, when the bones pf the cranium are soft and elastic, and are easily brought to the desired deformity. The operation I is performed by tying boards, hewn to a proper shape for the purpose, which they compress on the head. In performing this eccentric operation, many infants, I think without doubt, lose their lives. The more they get the head misshapen, the greater do they consider its beauty. They are a very kind and hospitable people. We left in charge with them, when we descended the Columbia river, our horses, which they kept safe. They likewise found where we had con* cealed our ammunition in the earth ; and had they not been an honest people, and preserved it safe, our lives must have been inevitably lost; they de- livered up the whole, without wishing to reserve any, or to receive for it a compensation. They, like the Snake Indians, abound in horses, which subsist in the winter season on a shrub they call ever green, which bears a large leaf, that is 'tolerably nutritious; they likewise feed upon the side of hills out of which gush small M^ I '>■' ; If WEW TRAVELS springs of water that melt the snow and affords pastille. In this manner our horses subsisted while going over the rocky mountains. The country inhai)ited by the Snake and Flatr headed Indians produces but very little game. Captain Clark kept an accoiint of the distances of places from one to another ; which were not ktpt by myself, for which reason I hope it will be a sufficient apology for subjoining two of his state- ments. .: '•■• 'i''^ ,M:Ki |:i ili!' w . i -,/.'■ ILiUcr friorn Capt. Clark, to his ExcelLfnc^ Governor Harrison, tt ** Fort Mandan, April 2d. DEAR SIR, *' By the return of a party which we sent from this place with dispatches, I do myself the plea- sure of giving you a sijmmary view of the Mis- souri. &c. *: . ' . »> " In ascending as high as the Kanzas river, which is 334 miles up the Missouri : on the S. W. side, we met a strong current, which was from five to seven miles an hour, the bottom is extensive, and covered with timber, the high country is inter- sperseil with rich handsome prairies, well- watered, and abound in deer and bear; in ascending as high as the river Plate, we met a current less rapid, not exceeding six miles an hour; in this distance we passed several small rivers on each side, which lorater some finely diversified country, principally prairie, as between Vincennes and Illinois, the bottoms continue wide, and covered with timber : •■sp .«».• # A&IONG THE INDIANS. )L\ns rivet is about 6000 yards wide, at the mouth, lot navigable; it heads in the rocky mountains, ^ith the North river, and Yellow Stone river, ar.d >asses through an open country ; fifteen leagties ip this river the Ottoes and thirty Missouries live [in one village, and can raise two hundred men ; fifteen leagues higher uj>, the Paiieas and Panea ^Republicans live in one village, and can raise seven mndred men ; up the wolf fork of this river, Pa- *pia Louisis live in one village, and can raise two [hundred and eighty men ; these Indians have par- tial ruptures frequently ; the river Plate is six hun- 'dred and thirty miles up the Missouri on the south west side. Here we find the antelope or goat; the next river of size ascending, is the Stone river, commonly called by the Ingaseix, Little River Desious; it takes its rise in lake Dispice, fifteen miles from the river Demx)ir, and is sixty-four yards wide ; here commences the Sioux country. The next by note is the Big Sioux river, which heads with the St. Peters, and waters of lake Winnepie, in some high wooded country; about ninety miles, still higher, the river Jacque falls on the same side, and about 100 yards wide; this river heads -With the waters of lake Winnepie, at no great distance east from the place, the head of the river Demon in Pelican lake, between the Sioux rivers and St. Peters; the country on both sides of the Missouri from the river Plate to that place has very much the same appearance; exten- sive fertile plains, containing but little timber, and that little, principally confined to the river I ■* '^ «^ I i Mill ill ■ s I; (Hi W I i 14 NeV TllAVELS ' bottoms and streams ; the country east of thi* place, and off from the Missouri as low as Stone river, contains a number of small trees, many of which are said to be so much impregnated with Glauber's salt as to produce all its effects; certain it is that the water in the small streams from the*l hill below on the south-west side possesses this quality. About the river Jacqua Bruff, the coun- try contains a great quantity of mineral, cobalt, cinnabar, alum, copperas, and several other things; the stone coal which is on the Missouri is very in- different. Ascending fifty-two miles above the^;^ Jacqua, the river Quicum falls in on the south- west side of this river, is 1026 miles up, 150 yards wide, not navigable ; it heads in the black moun- tains which run nearly parallel to the Missouri from about the head of the Kanzas river, and ends| south-west of this place. Quicum waters a bro-| ken country 122 miles by water higher. White | River falls in on the south-west side, and is 300 yards wide, and navigable, as all the other streams are which are not particularly mentioned; this river heads in some small lakes, short of the black mountains. The Mahan and Poncan nations rove on the heads of this river and the Quicum, and can raise 250 men; they M'ere very numerous a few years ago, but the small pox and the Sioux have reduced them to their present state; the Sioux possess the south-west of the Missouri, i above White River, 132 miles higher, and on the west side. Teton river falls into it, it is small, and heads in the open plains; here we met a large i^f AMONG THE INDIANS. 15 ind of Sioux, and the second which we had ?en, called Tetons; these are rascals, and may be Listly termed the pirates of the Missouri ; they lade two attempts to stop us; they are subdi- [ided and stretch on the river near to this ilace, having reduced the Racres and Mandans, nd driven them from the country they now oc- *' The Sioux bands rove in the country to the [ississippi. About forty-seven miles above the i'eton river, the Chyanne river falls in from the )uth-west, 4000 yards wide, is navigable to the (lack mountains, in which it takes its rise, in le third range; several bands of Indians biit little fnown, rove c;i the head of this and the river •late, and are stated to be as follows : Chaoenne ^00 men; Staetons 100; Canenaviech 400; Cay- [nwa and Wetahato 200; Cataha seventy; De- ime thirty; Memesoon fifty; Castahana - 1300 len ; it is probable that some of those bands are le remains of the Padoucar nation ; at 1440 miles ip the Missouri, (and a short distance above two landsome rivers which take their rise in the black lountains,) the Kicaras live in three villages, and [re the remains of ten different tribes of Paneas, rho have been reduced and driven from their lountry lower down by the Sioux; their number about 500 men, they raise corn, beans, &c. and )pear friendly and well-disposed; they were at [ar with the nations of this neighbourhood, and [e have brought about peace. Between the Recars id this place, two rivers fall in on the south* •* *?■ 11! 1 1 'i ii tvcsl, and one on the north-east, not tery long, and take their rise in the open country; this country abounds in a great variety of wild animals, but a few of which the Indians take; many of those animals arc uncommon in the United States, such as white, red and grey bears ; long eared mules, or black tail deer, (black at the end of the tail only) large hares, antelope or goat; the red fox; the gronnd praitie dugs, (who burrow in the ground ) the braroca, which has a head Kke a dog, and the size of a small dog ; the white brant, magpie, calumet eagle, &c., and many others arc *'said to inhabit the rocky mountains. ** I have collected the following account of the rivers and country in advance of this, to wit ; two days march, in advance of this, the Little Missouri falls on the south side, and heads at the Narth- west extremity of the black mountains; six days march further, a large river joins the Missouri, affording as much water as the main river. This river is rapid, without a fall, ^nd navigable to the rocky mountains, hs branches head with the wa- ters of the river Plate; the country in advance is -, said to be broken. "T^'he trade of the nations at this place is from the north west, and Hudson's Bay establishments, on the Asksinneboin river, distant about one hun- ^ dred and fifty miles ; those traders are nearly at I open war #ith each other, and betted calculated toj destroy than proftiote the happiness of those na- tioni, to which tliey haV^ latterly ie^tei^ed their «* *r^ •ii -■^. AMONG THE INDIANS. 17 trade, iand ihtend to form an establisliment near ' this place in the course of this year. ** Your most ** Obedient servant, «' Wrj. Clark." Letter from Capt. Clark to his Brother, * St. Louis, 23d Sept. 1806. , "dear brother, *^We arrived at this place at twelve o'clock to day, from the Pacific Ocean, where we remained during the last winter, near the entrance of the Columbia river. This station we left on the 27th of March last, and should have reached St. Loujs early in August, had we not been detained by the snow, which barred our passage across the Rocky Mountains until the 24th of June. In returning through these mountains, we divided ourselves in- to several parties, digressing from the route by which we went out, in order the more effectually to explore the country, and discover the most practicable route which does exist across the con- tinent, by the v/ay of the Missouri and Columbia rivers : in this we were completely successful, and have theretbre no hesitation in declaring, thit, such as nature has permitted, we have discovered the best route which does exist across the conti- nent of North America in that direction. Such is that by way of the Missouri to the foot of the Rapids, below the great falls of that river, a dis- tance of two thousand, five hundred and seventy- * five miles, thence by land, passing by the Rocky .-; 't' ■,* ^-^f* Id VEVir TRAVCU Mountains to a navigable part of the Kooskoosk^, three hundred and forty ; and with the Kooskooske seventy-three miles, Lewis's riVer one hundred and fifty-four miles, and this Columbia four hun- cred and thirteen miles, to the Pacific ocean, mak- ing the total distance, from the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, to the discharge of the Columbia into the Pacific oce^, three thousand five hundred and fifty-five miles. The navigation of the Missouri may be deemed good ; its ciiffi- culties arise from its falling banks, timber imbed- ded in the mud of its channel, its sand bars, and the steady rapidity of its current, all which may be overcome with a great degree of certainty, by using the necessary precautions. The passage by land of three hundred and forty miles, from the falls of the Missouri to the Kooskooske, is the most formidable part of the track proposed across the continent. Of this distance, two hundred hiiles is along a good road, and one hundred and forty miles over tremendous mottniains, which for sixty miles are covered with eternal snows. A passage over these mountains is, however, prac- ticable from the latter part of June to the last of September ; and the cheap rate at which horses are to be obtained from the Indians of the "Rocky Mountains, and the west of them, reduces the ex- penses of transportation over this portage to a mere trifle. The navigation of the Kooskooske, Lewis's river, and the Columbia, is safe and good, from the first of April to the middle of August, by making three portages on the latter river ; the AMONG THi; INDIANS. 19 ftrst of which, in descending, is twelve hundred paces at the falls of Columbi^^ t\vo hundred and sixty one miles up tli^t river ; the second of two miles at the long narrows, six miles below the falls, and a third, also of two miles, at the great Rapids, sixty-five miles still lower down. The tide flows up the Columbia one hundred and eighty- three miles, and within seven miles of the great Bapids. Large sloops may with safety ascend us high as the tide water; ^nd vessels ofSOO tons burthen reach the entrance of the Multnomah river, a larg<3 southern branch pf the C^phimbia, ^yhich ta^es its rise on the confines of New Mexico, with the Callerado and Apostle's rivers, discharging }t-^ 'Self into the Columbia, one hundred and twenty- five miles from its entrance ipto the Pacific ocean. I consider this traclf across the continent of im- mjsnse advantage to the fur trade, as all the furs collected in nine-tenths of the most valuable fur country in America, may be conveyed to the mouth of the Columbia, and shipped from thence to the East Indies, by the first of August in each, year ; and will of course reach Cantdp earlier than the furs which are annually exported from Mpn- ireal arrive in Great Britain. ^' In our putward bound passage we ascended to the foot of the Rapids, below the great falls of the ^lissouri, where we arrived on the 14th of June, 1805. Not having met with any of the natives of the Rocky Mountains, we were of course igno- rant of the passes by land, which existed through those mountains to the Columbia river : and ha4 C 2 ;, X • . * 4 1 .> '- .•. -ty 20 • NEW TRAVELS we even known the route, we were destitute of horses, which would have been indispensably ne» cessary to enable us to transport the requisite li V£W TltAV£tl lioh of Ihih nvtt was coriect, I returned and joined Caplaih Lewis on the 9!9th of August, at the Shos" hone camp, excessively fatigued, as you may sup* post; having passed mountains almost inaccessible, and c'om^ellcd to subsist on berries during the greater part of my route. We now purchased Itlventy-seve!^ horses of these Indians, and hired a guide, who assured us that he could in fifteen days take us to a large river in an open country, >tvt8t of these mountains, by a route some distance to the north of the river ota which they liiTd, and tfiat by whidi tlie natives west of the mountains Vislttheplains of the Missouri, for the purpose of hunting the bulTaloe. Evety preparation being toade, we set forward with our guide on the 31st t>f August, thtough those tremendous mountains, ift which we continued until the 22nd of Septem*- her, 'before we reached the lov/er country beyond them ; on our way we met with the Olelachshool, a bknd of tlife Tuchapalcs, from whom we obtained -an acddssion of seven horses, and exchanged eight i 'drten others. This proved of infinite service to MB, as we were compelled to- subsist on horse | heef about eight days before we reached the Koos- kooske. " During our passage over those mountains, we j suffered every thing ^lich hunger, cold, and fa* ^igiie could impose; uor did our difficulties, withl -tespect to provision, cease on our arrival at tb)B| Kboskooskey for although the Pallotepallorsyanu* inerbus nation inhabiting that country, nvere ex* iremely hospttabfo, imd fbr a few trifling articlcij AMONG tUE INDIANS. 23 furaished us with aa abundance of roots and dried salmon, the £ood to which they were ac- customed, we found that we could not subsist on ^hese articles, and almost all of us grew sick on eating them ; we were obliged, therefore, to have recourse to the flesh of horses and dogs, as food, io supply the deficiency of our guns, which pro- duced but little meat, as game was scarce in the vicinity of our camp on the Kooskooske, where we were compelled to reaiain, in order to construct our perogues, to descend the \riv£r. At this sea- son the salmon are meagre, and form but indif- ferent food. While we remained here, I was my- self sick for several days, and my friend Captain Lewis suffered a severe indisposition. ^' Having completed four perogues and a small .canoe, we gave our horses in charge to the Pallote- •pallors until we returned, and on the 7th of Octo- ber re-embarked fof the. Pacific Ocean. We de- scended by the route I have already mentioned* The water of the river being low at this season, we experienced much difficulty in descending: we found it obstructed by a great number of difficult, and dangerous rapids, in passing which our pe- rogues several times filled, and the men escaped narrowly with their lives. However, this diffi- culty does not exist in high water, which hap- pens within the period I have previously men- tioned. We found the natives extremely nume- rous, and generally friendly, though we have on several occasions owed our lives and the fate of t'Hw expedition to our number, which consisted of f "• i'^W ■5 . , • ' V ^ T* ... * J- / -Li- X' 24 NEW TRAVELS thirty-one men. On the 17th of November we reached the ocean, where various considerations induced us to spend the winter; we therefore searched for an ehgible situation for that purpose, and selected a spot on the south side of a little ri- ver, called by the natives Neittl, which discharges itself at a small bar on the south side of the Co- lumbia, and fourteen miles within Point Adams. Here we constructed some log houses, and de- fended them with a common stockade work. This place we called Fort Clatsop, after a nation of that same who were our nearest neighbours. In this country we found an abundance of elk, on which wc subsisted principally during the last winter. We left Fort Clatsop on the 27th of March. On our homeward bound voyage, being much better acquainted with the country, we were enabled to take such precautions as in a great measure se- cured us from the want of provisions at any time, Sknd greatly lessened our fatigues, when compared with those to which we were compelled to submit in our outward bound journey. We have not lost a man since we left the Mandans, a circumstance which I assure you is a pleasing consideration to me. As I shall shortly be with you, and the post is now waiting, I deem it unnecessary here to at- tempt minutely to detail the occurrences of the last eighteen months. * *' I am &c. •' Your affectionate brother, t ♦' Wm. Clauk." AMONC THE INDIANS. 85 The treatment wc received from the Indian^ luring nearly three years that we were with Ihem was very kind and hospitable; except \he ill treatment we received from the Sioux tribe, vho several times made attempts to stop us; md we should have been massacred, had we noc terrified them from their murderous intention, by , threatening them with the small-pox, in such a tanner as would kill the whole tribe. Nothing jould be more horrible to them, than the bare lention of this fatal disease. It was first com- lunicated to them by, the Americans, and it Ipread from tribe to tribe with an unabated pace, intil it extended itself across the continent. *' This fatal infection, spread around with a )aneful rapidity, which no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could resist. It lestroyed with its pestilential breath, whole fami- lies and tribes ; and the horrid scene presented to those who had the melancholy and affecting op- portunity of beholding it, a combination of the lead and dying, and such as to avoid the horrid Ifate of their friends around them, prepared todis- lappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating [their own existence. The habits and lives of those levoted people, who provide not to-day for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened the )ain8 of such an affliction, by leaving them not )nly without remedy, but evea without allevia- tion. Nothing was left them, but to submit in agony zud despair. To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may be "dded the ■i 'M •k-- r. M^- m TV ^ Q6 KlEir TRAVELS tight of tl)e helpless child, beholding the putrid carcase of its heloved parents dragged from their huts by the wolves (who were invited hither by the stench), and satiated their hunger on the mangled corpse. Or, in the same manner, serve the dog with food, from the body of his once he* loved master. Nor was it uncommon for the •father of a family, whom the iinfection had just xeached, to call his family around him, to ref>reho was prepairingto ex- tirpate their race ; and to invite them to haffie death with aH its horrors, with their own weapons; and, at the same time, if their hearts failed in this necessary act, he was himself wady to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the iast act of his affection, and instantly follow them to the chambers of death."* The Xndians ibeingi destitute of ^%^icia;>f, living on £r;}ii»a//b(M/, and plunging themselves into cold wattr, on the first! discovery of the disease, rendered it generally mortal. While we were at Fort Mandan the Sioux rob- bed several of our party when they were return- ing to the fort, with the fruits of an. excursion! after game ; and murdered several of the Mandan tribe in cold blood, without provocation, while| 'reposing on the bosom of friendship. On hearing j of this massacre. Captain Clark and the greater 'part of us volunteered to avenge the murder ; butj A Wf stwti Traveller* AMONG THE INDIANS, W - refe deterred by not receiving succour from the fandan warriors; who declined to avenge the ' )utrage committed on them. The probable rea- ' [son of their not enlisting was, that they were too much afraid of the superior number of the Sioux [<» venture an engagement. Soon«fter tliis massacre, we received authentic [intelligence, that the Sioux had it in contempla- Ition (if their threats were true) to nuirder us in the spring ; but were prevented from making the [attack, by our threatening to spread the small pox, I with all its horrors among them. Knowing that^ it first originated among the white people, and having heard of inoculation, and the mode of keeping the inaction in phials, which they had but an imperfect idea of, a bare threat filled them with horror, and was sufficient to deter them from their resolute and bloody purpose. This strata- ge;m may appear insignificant to the reader, biit was of the greatest consequence to ns ; for to it •lone we owed not only the fate of the expedition, 'but our lives. Most of the tribes of Indians, that we became acquainted with (except the Sioux), after being introduced i>y Our interpreter ; atid having found thait our itttentions were friendly towards them ; never failed of greeting us with many tokens of f them, and wounded him; the hear instead of jeing intimidated, by the smart of the wound, j;vas stimulated into rage, and rushed with great fury to devour the assailant ; who saved his life )y running headlong down a steep precipice, that formed the bank of the river; but was severely jruised by this precipitate retreat. The following narrative of an encounter with snake, is told by a companion, whose veracity [an be relied on ; I will give it in his own words, is he related it in a letter to his friend. ** Some time," says he, ** before we reached Fort Mandan, while I was out on an excursion of [unting, 'One of the greatest monsters that ever locked the miiid with horroy was presented to my ■ tat - M .> . t.-, :V :!i . *•%•; ^ 30 VhW TRAVKLS sight. When passing deliberately in a forest 6iat bordered on a prairie, I heard a rustling in the bushes; I Jeaped towards the objectj delighted "with the prospect of acquiring game. But on proceeding a few paces further, my blood was chilled by the appearance of a serpent of an enor- mous size; on discovering me, he immediately erected his head to a great height ; his colour was of a yellower hue than the spots of a rattle snake, and on the top of his back were spots of a reddish colour ; his eyes emitted fire, his tongue darted, as though he menaced my destruction. He was evidently in the attitude of springing at me, when I levelled my rifle at him ; but probably owing to my consternation, I only wounded him ; but the explosion pf the gun and the wound turned to ;flight the 'awful enemy. Perhaps you may think, i rthat my fright hafi magnified the description. I| fcan candidly aver, that he was in bulk half as large | cas a middle sized man." In th^ Indian tribes ,there is so great a similarity I in their stature, colour, government, and religi- ous tenets that it will be requisite for perspicuity,! to rank them under one general liead. And when there is a contrast in the course of the description it will be mentioned. * Tbey are all (except the Snake Indians) tall inl stature, straight, and robust ; it is very seldoni| they are deformed, which has given rise to the sup- position,, that they put to death their deformed! children, which is fiot the case. Their skin is of? a copper colour, their eyes large, black, and of a AMaNG THE INDIANS. 31 bright and sparkling colour, indicative of a subtle iand discerning mind. Their hair, is of the same colour, and prone to grow long, str?ugbt, and sel- dom or never curled; their teeth are large and white. I never observed any decayed among tbero, which makes their breath as sweet as the air they inhale. The women are about the stature of the English women, and much inclined to corpulency, which is seldom the case with the other sex. I shall not enter into a discussion about the cause of their hue. I shall barely mention the supposi- tions that are made respecting it. Some have as* [serted, that it is derived principally from their Unointing themselves with fat in the summer sea- son, to prevent profuse perspiration, and this, combined with the influence of the sun, has given the tincture of their complexion. To support the hypothesis they assert, that the above-mentioned causes repeated, give colour to the parent, who procreates his own likeness, until at length it is entailed on posterity. But notwithstanding this curious reasoning, others are of opinion, that the hand of the Creator gave the reddish hue to the Indians, the sable 'colour to the African, and that of white to the civilized nations. They esteem a beard exceedingly unbecoming, [and take great pains to get rid of it, nor is there ever any to be perceived on their faces, except when they grow old and become inattentive to |thcir appearance. Every crinose excrescence ou other parts of their body is held in as great abhor- rence by them, and both sexes are ecjually careful ■^Mt: S:-^- J ■v-'Y^ -(• iM «*- 59 ' NEW TRAVELS to extirpate it, in whicU they often employ "much time. *^^ The PaHptepallors, Serpentine, Mandan, and other interior tribes of Indians, pluck them out 1^4] with bent pieces of hard wood, formed into a kind of nippers, made for that purpose; while those that have a communication with Americans or Europeans, procure from them wire, which t'liey ingeniously make into an instrument resem- bling a screw, which will take so firm a hold of the beard, that with a sudden twitch they extir- pate it by the roots, when considerable blood never fails to flow. . ' '^- The dress of the Indians varies according to thfc tribe they belong to; but in general it is made very commodious, not to incumber them in pur- suing the chace, or their enemy; those that inha- bit the Missouri, I have often seen, in cold wea- ther, without any apparel to screen themselves from the inclemency of the weather. The lower rank of the Pallotepallors and Clatsops, wear no- thing in the summer season, but a small garment about their hips, which is either manufactured out of bark or skins, and which would vie with, if not | excel, any European manufacture, being diver- sified with different colours, which give it a gay appearance. Their kings are generally dressed in robes made out of small skins, (which take several hundred for a garment) of different colours, neatly tanned; these they hang loosely over their shoul- ders. In deep snows they wear skins that entirely Si 01 tH 01 pll it': AMONG THE INDIANS. 33 cover their legs and fe^t, and almost answer for breeches, being held up by strings tied to the lower part of their waist. Their ^bodies, in the winter season, are covered with different kinds of skins, that arc tanned with the fur on, which they wear next to the skin. Those of the men, who wish to appear more gay than others, pluck out the greatest part of their hair, leaving only small locks as fancy dictates, on which are huug different kinds of quills, and feathers of elegant plumage superbly pairited. The Sioux and Osages, who traffick with the Americans, wear some of our apparel, such as shirts and blankets; the for* mer they cannot bear tied at the wristbands and collats, and the latter they throw loosely over their shoulders. Their chiefs dress very gay: about their heads they wear all kinds of ornaments that can well be bestowed upon them, which are curiously wrought, and in the winter long robes of the richest fur, that trail on the ground. In the summer there is no great i ^culiarity, onljr that what the higher rank wear is excessively or- namented. ^ The Indians paint their heads and faces yellow^, green, red, and black; which they esteem very ornamental. They also paint themselves wheA they go to war; but the method they make use of on this occasion differs from that which they em- ploy merely for decoration. The Chipaway young men, who ar6 emulous of excelling their companions in finery, slit the out- ward rim of both ears; at the same time they take u m I F 34 NEW TRAVELI care not to separate them entirely, but leave the flesh thus cut, still untouched at both extremities, around this spungy substance, from the upper to the lower part; they twist brass wire till the weight . draws the amputated rim in a bow of five or six inches diameter, and drags it down almost to the shoulder. This decoration is esteemed gay and becoming. It is also a custom among them ta bore their noses, and wear in them pendants of different sorts. Shells are often worn, which when painted are reckoned very ornamental. ^.The Indians who inhabit the borders of Louis- iana, make for their legs a kind of stocking, either of skins or cloth; these are sewed up as much as possible in the shape of their leg, so as to admit of being drawn on and ofF; the edges of ' the stuff of which they are composed, are left annexed to the seams, and hang loose about the breadth of a hand; and this part, which is placed on the outside of the leg, is generally ornamented with lace and ribbons, and often with embroi- dery and^ porcupine quills variously coloured. The hunters from Louisiana find these stockings much more convenient than any others. Their shoes are made of the skins of deer or elk; these, after be- ing dressed with the hair on, are cut into shoes, and fashioned so as to be easy to their feet, and convenient for walking, The edges round the f ancle are decorated with pieces of brass or tin, fi:!^ed round a leather string about an inch long, U ii*.>. AMONG THE INDIANS. 55 which being placed very thick, make a ;very pleasing noise when they walk or dance. .^^ The dress of the women in the summer season, Consists only of a petticor' that does not reach down to their knees. In the winter they wear a shift, made of skins, which answers a very good purpose when they stand erect, as it is sufficiently low; but when they stoop they often put modesty to the blush. Their feet and legs are covered in a manner similar to the other sex. Must of the female Indians who dwell on the west side of the Mississippi, near its confluence with the Missouri, decorate their heads by enclos- ing their hair in plates of silver; these are costly ornaments, and used by the highest rank only. Those of the lower rank make use of bones, which they manufacture to resemble those of sil^ ver. The silver made use of is formed into thin plates of about four or five inches broad, in seve- ral of which they confine their hair. Tliat plate which is nearest to the head is of considerable width; the next narrower, and made so as to pass a ^ittle way under the other, and 'so gradually tapering until they get to a very considerable mag- nitude. #t : This decoration proves to be of great expense, for they often wear it on the back part of the head, extending to the full length of their hair, which is commonly irlty long. The women of evefy nation generally paint a spot against each ear, about the size of a crown % ■* ■ '■^ % 56 vtfr tHaveU piece ; some of them paint their hair and some- times a spot on the middle of their forehead. The Indians have no fixed habitations when they are hunting ; but build where conveniency directs : their houses are made so low as not to admit one to stand erect, and are without win- dows. Those that are built for a permanent resi- dence are much more substantial ; they are made of logs and bark, large enough to contain several apartments. Those built fol* their chiefs are often very elegant. That of the chief warrior of the Mahas, is at least sixty feet in circumference, and lined with furs and painting. The furs are of va- rious colours, many of which I had never seen before, and were extremely beautiful i the variety in colour formed a contrast that much added to its elegance. The paintings were elegant, and would adorn the dwellings of an opulent European prince. But the houses of the common people are but very indifferent. ' ' They have also moveable houses, which they use for fishing, and sometimes for hunting, made of deer skins, or birch bark sewed together, which they cover over poles made for the purpose ; they are bent over to form a semicircle, resembling those bent by the Americans for beans or hops to grow on, and are covere 83 •'• NEW TRAVELS In general they have no idea of the use of milk, Mlthough great quantities might be collected from the buffalo and elk. They only consider it proper for the nourishment of the young of these animals, in their tender state. It cannot be perceived, that any inconvenience arises from the disuse of articles so much esteemed by civilized nations, •which they employ to give a relish and flavour to their food. But on the contrary, the great healthi- ness of the Indians, and the unhealthiness of the sons of Epicurus, prove that the diet of the former is the most salutary. They preserve their meat by exposing it to the sun in the summer, and in the winter by putting it betw cen cakes of ice, which keep it sweet, and free from any putrifactive quality. Their food consists, in a great measure, of the llesh of the bear, buffalo and deer. They who reside near the head of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, chiefly make use of the buffalo and ^Ik, , "which are often seen from fifty to an hundred in a drove. Where there are plenty of tha two last mentioned animals there are but few of the former, and where there are many of the former, but few of the latter. ,« ** The mode of roasting their meat, is by burning it under ground, on the side of a hill, placing stones next to the meat :|t% mode of building to lieat ft somewhat resemblgifi^ th^ fire-place made under a limekiln. In iHii 'manner they roast the largest of their animals. The mode of cooking smaller pieces is to roast the^ in stones, that are hewn out for the purpose. ^ ''A * I AlfONO THE IKDIAKS. S9 The Flatheads and Clatsops procure a root a- bout the size of a potatoe, spontaneously and in great abundance, which is tolerably palatable, and perfectly agrees with the natives ; but made us all sick, while we were among them. Before we descended the Columbia river, we were unable to procure game, and had recourse to the flesh of dogs and horses to preserve life, as those roots would, without doubt, have destroyed us, and we were unable to procure any other kind of food. • «^ Many of the tribes of Indians are extremely dir- ty. I have seen the Maha Indians bring water in the paunches of animals that were very dirty, and in other things equally so. But the Maha Chiefs are very neat and cleanly in their tents, apparel, and food. The Indians commonly eat in large parties, so ' that their meals may with propriety be termed feasts; they have not set hours for their meals, but obey the dictates of nature. Many of the tribes dance before or after their meats, in devotion to the Great Spirit for the blessings they receive. Being informed of the mode of our saying ^ra«e, they answered, that they thought weVere stupid and ungrateful, not to exercise our bodies for the great benefits we re- ceived ; but muttering with our lips, they thought was an unacceptable jp^pce to the Great Spirit, and the stupid mode^i^r t^e ceremony ridiculous in the extreme. In their feasts, the men and wo- men eat apart ; but in their domestic way of living, they promiscuously cat together. ^*'*<^^ ' 40 -(/' M I^EW TRAVELS tiS . Iifstcad of getting together and dnpkii)g> as the ^misricap^ do, they make use of feasting as a sub« §(itute. When tl)eir chiefs are assembled together on ^ny occasion, they always conclude with a feast, at which their hilarity and cheetfiilness know no bounds. ■^,^. No people on e^^rth are more hospitable, kind, and free, than the Indians. The'y %viU readily share with any of their own tribe, and even with those of a different nation, the last part of their provisions. Though they do not keep one com- mon stock, yet that community of goods, which is so prevalent among them, and their generous dispositions, render it nearly of the same effect. They strike fire by rubbing together sticks of wood, of a particular kind, which will yield it with ease : from other kinds it is impossible to pro- eyre it. They are extremely circumspect and deliberate in every word and action ; nothing hurries them intp any Intemperate wrath, but that inveteracy tp their enemies, which is rooted in every Indian's breast, and never can be eradicated. In all other i|ist9uc.es they are cool and deliberate, taking care to suppress the amotions of the heart. If an In- 4iai) has discovered that a friend of his is in dan^- g€r of being cut off by ii^^^ing enemy, he does npt t^U hin> of his dangertiilirect terms, as though lie were in ffiar, but he j^rst coolly asks him which iv^y he is going th^t day, and having his answer, ^itli the ^amp indifer^nc^ ^llsl^inL t)iat be hs^f *^''j f:> AMONG THE INPIAWS. 41 ^een informed, that a noxious beast lies on he route he is going, which might probably do lim mischief. This hint proves sufficient, and his [riend avoids the danger with as much caution, as [hough every design and motion of his enemy had leen pointed out to hiui. This apathy often shews itself, on occasions that ,'ould call forth the favour of a susceptible heart, if ^n Indian has been absent from his family for leveral months, either on a war or hunting party, md his wife and children meet him at some dis- tance from his habitation, instead of the afF'.ction- ^te sensations that naturally arise in the breast of jore refined beings, and give rise to mutual con- gratulations, he continues his course without look- ing to the right or left; without paying the least ittention to those around him, till he arrives at his louse : he there sits down, and with as much un- oncern as if he had not been absent a day, smokes lis pipe; those of his friends who followed him, lo the same; perhaps it is several hours before he ielates to them the incidents that have befallen lim during his absence, though perhaps he has |eft a father, a brother, or a son dead on the field, whose loss he ought to have lamented) or has been Successful in the undertaking that called him from lis home. If an Indian has bee^ engaged for several days the chase, or any other laborious expedition, |nd by accident continued long without food, 'hen he arrives at the hut of a friend, where he ^nows that his w^nts \yiU be immediately supplied^ .3^ -fw»r. 43 NEW TBAVEIS * i he takes care not to shew the least symptoms of impatience, or betray the extreme hunger that he is tortured with; but, on being invited in, sits contentedly down, and smokes his pipe with as much composure as if his appetite was cloyed, and he was perfectly at ease; he does the same if among strangers. This custom is strictly adhered to by every tribe, as they esteem it a proof of for- titude, and think the reverse w(^uld entitle them to the appellation of old women. If you tell an Indian, that his children have greatly signalized themselves against an enemy, have taken many scalps, and brought home many prisoners, he does not appear to feel any strong emotions of pleasure on the occasion ; his answer generally is, ** they have done well,*' and makes but very little enquiry about the matter; on the con- trary, if you inform him that his children are slain or taken prisoners, he makes no complaints, he only replies, '* it is unfortunate," and, for some time, asks no questions about how it happened. This seeming indifference, however, does not proceed from a suppression of the natural affections, for, notwithstanding they are esteemed savages, I never saw among any other people greater proofs of filial tenderness ; and although they meet their wives after a long absence with the stoical indif- ference just mentioned, they are not, in general, void of conjugal affection. - *' Another peculiarity is observable in the manner of paying their visits. If an Indian goes to visit a particular person ii| a family, he mentions to a: ptoms of iger that ;d in, sits e with as oyed, and ; same if y adhered )of of for- title them dren have n enemy, ome many ny strong lis answer makes but n the con- ;n are slain Its, he only some time, [1. does not affections; jd savages, ater ])roofs meet their oical indif- in general, the manner oes to visit nentions to m m AMONO THE INDIANS. 4J Mfhom his visit is intended, and the rest of the family immediately retire to the other end of the hut or tent, and are careful not to come near enough to interrupt them during the whole con- versation. The same method is pursued when a young man goes to pay his addresses to a young woman ; but then he must be careful not to let love be the subject of his discourse, whilst the day- light remains. * They discover an amazing sagacity, and acquire Avith the greatest readiness any thing that depends upCii the attention of the mind. By experience, and an acute observation, they attain many per- fections, to which Americans are strangers. For instance 27 will cross a forest or a plain, which is two hu « :d miles in breafclth, so as to reach with great exactness the point at which they intend to arrive, keeping during the whole of that space in a direct line, without any material deviations; and this they will do with the same ease, let the wea- ther be fair or cloudy. With equal acuteness they will point to that part of the heavens the sun is in, though it be in- tercepted by clouds or fogs. Besides this, they are able to pursue, with incredible facility, the traces of man or beast, either on leaves or grass ; and on this account it is with great difficulty a flying enemy escapes discovery. * ^ »- They are indebted for these talents, not only to nature, but to an extraordinary command of the intellectual faculties, which can only be acquired by an unremitted attention, and by long expe- rience. . u. 'm=^ 44 NEV TRAVELS "- They are in general very happy in a retentive memory. They can recapitulate every particular that has been treated of in council, and remember tlie exact time when they were held. Their belts of wampum preserve the substance of the treaties they have concluded with the neighbouring tribes, for ages back, to which they will appeal and re- fer, with as much perspicuity and readiness, as Europeans can to their written records. Every nation pays great respect to old age. The advice of a father will never receive any extraor- dinary attention from the young Indians; pro- bably they receive it with only a bare assent ; but they will tremble before a grandfather, and sub- mit to his injunctions with the utmost alacrity. The words of the ancient part of their community are esteemed by the young as oracles. If they take, during hunting parties, any game that is reckoned by them uncommonly delicious, it is immediately presented to the eldest of their relations. They never suffer themselves to be overburdened with care ; but live in a state of perfect tranquillitv and contentment, being naturally indolent. It provisions, just sufficient for their subsistence, can be procured with little trouble, and near at hand, they will not go far, or take any extraordinary pains for it, though by so doing tliey might ac- quire greater plenty, "and of a more estimable kind. -'■-'* '''--^'■' ■'■••*•■ Having much leisure time, they indulge tliis indolence to which they are so prone, by sleeping ^nd rambling about ^mopg their tents, ^ut when sai em AMONG THE INDIANS 45 |nccessity obliges them to take the field, either to )ppose an enemy, or to procure food, they ire alert and indefatigable. Many instances of [their activity on these occasions, will be given Iwhen we treat of their wars. The greatest blemish in their character, is that savage disposition, which impels them to treat their enemies with a severity, that every other nation shudders at. But if tliey are thus barbarous to those with whom they are at ^ar, they are jfriendly, hospitable, and humane in peace. It may pvith truth be said of them, that they are the worst ^nemies, and the best friends, of any people in the rorUL . \^r , ^ They are, in general, strangers to the passion of jealousy, and brand a man with folly that is dis- trustful of his wife. Among some tribes the very Idea is not known ; as the most abandoned of peir young men very rarely attempt the virtue of larried women, nor do these put themselves in the ray of solicitations : yet, the Indian women in ge- leral, are of an amorous disposition ; and before |hey are married, are not the less esteemed for the Indulgence of their passions. The Indians, in their common state, are stran- gers to all distinction of property, except in the ^rticles of domestic use, which every one consi- ders as his own, and increases as circumstances ad- iit. They are extremely liberal to each other; id supply the deficiency of their friends with any iperfluity of their own. i«»i^ii'4,»^U =ni la dangers they readily give aasistanoe to those %a^ ."V 4# NEW TRAVELS ^ of their band, who stand in need of it, without any expectation of return, except those just re- wards that are always conferred by the Indians on merit. Governed by tlie plain and equitable laws of nature, every one is rewarded according to his deserts ;^ and their equality of condition, manners, and privileges, with that constant and sociable fa* miliarity which prevails throughout every Indian nation^ animates them with a pure and patriotic spirit, that tends to the general good of the soci- ety to which they belong. ' •^'- '^'^ *• It* any of their neighbours are bereaved, by death, or by an enemy, of their children, those who are | possessed of the greate'st number of prisoners, who are made slaves, supply the deficiency ; and these are adopted by them, and treated in every respect as if they really v%ere the children of the person to whom they are presented. t ^ . ^^ .ir**; « The Indians can form to themselves no idea of the value of money ; they consider it, when they are made acquainted with the uses to which it is applied by other nations, as the source of innume- rable evils. To it they attribute all the mischiefs that are prevalent among Europeans, such as trea- chery, plundering, devastation, and murder. a They esteem it irrational, that one man should be possessed of a greater quantity than another, and are amazed that any hojaour should be annexed to the possession of it. •^i^*' ''^. But that the want of this useless metal should be the cause of depriving persons of their liberty, and that on the account of this particular distribu- P^ libs Im '■■i^.^ rov rea igh Mi Ti '■SB icin lem ith idv en lin^ ivii # without 5 justrc- [idians on ■able laws ng to bis ^ manners, ^ jciable fa- ry Indian .. 1 patriotic j ftbe soci-| j^ by death, ise who are ,oner9, who ; and these R jevy respect • the person J s no idea of I , when they I which it is , of innume- [be mischiefs Isucb as trea- f order. man should another, and annexed to| I metal should their liberty, lular distribu- AMONG THE INDIANS 47 tion of it, great numbers should be shut up within le dreary walls df a prison, cut off from society >f which they constitute a part, exceeds their be- lief; nor do they fail, on hearing this part of the United States' system of government related, to :harge the institutors of it with a total want of mmanity, and to brand them with the names of lavages and brutes. They show almost -^n lal degree of irV^^^r- ence for the productions oi art. When any of hese are shewn them, they say, "It is pretty, I like look at it/* and often are not inquisitive about ;he construction of it, neither can they form pro- er conceptions of its use. But if you tell them . person runs with great agility, that he is skilled [\ hunting, can direct with unerring aim a gun, or end with ease a bow; that he can dexterously work canoe, understands the art of war, is acquainted ith the situations of a country, and can make his ay without a guide through an immense forest, ibsisting during the time on a small quantity of rovisions, they are in raptures ; they listen with ireat attention to the pleasing tale, and bestow the ghest commendation on the hero of it. They make but little use of physicians and me- |icine, and consequently have few diseases amongst em. There is seldom an Indian but that blooms ith the appearance of health. They have no idwives among them ; and among several tribes e mother is without the assistance of any person ing with her at the time of her delivery, not ^ving even a female attendant M ii"> ■ ^i^^-'-' »; ''^vT* -V 48 NfiW TRAVELS Soon after the birth of a child, h is placed on a board, which is covered with a skin stuffed with soft moss : tlie child is laid on its back, and tied to it. To these machines are fastened strings, by which they hang them to branches of trees ; or, if they do not find trees handy, they place them against a stump or stone while they dress the deer or fish, or do any domestic business. In this position they are kept until they are several months old. When taken out they are suffered to go naked, and arc daily bathed in cold water, which renders them yigorous and active. An Indian child is generally kept at the breast until it is two years old, and sometimes, though rarely, a year longer. The Indians often occasion inflammatory dis eases, by excessive eating, after a fast of three or four days, when retreating from, or pursuing an enemy. .■-''• ''■:,;.m~,j . ;^.-i The inequality of riches, the disappointments of ambition, and merciless oppressions, are not with them exciting causes oi insanity. I made great in- quiry, but was not able to learn, that a single case of melancholy or madness was ever known amon^ them. The dreadful havoc that the small-pox has madi has necessarily been mentioned. The mode of curing a fever is, by profuse per spiration, which is effected by the patient being confined iu a clos€ tent or wigwam, over a hole in the earth, in which red hot stones are placed; J l AMONG THE INDIANS. J^ Each fgmily has a right to appoint one of its chiefs to be an assistant to the principal chiefs who watches over the interest of his family, and without whose consent nothing of a public nature can be carried into execution. These are gene- rally chosen for their ability in speaking ; and such only a*'e permitted to make orations in their coun- cils and general assemblies. . In this body, with the hereditary chief at its head, the supreme authority appears to be lodged ; as by its determination every transaction relative to their hunting, to their making war or peace, and to all their public concerns is regulated. Next to these, the body of warriors, which comprehends all that are able to bear arms, hold their rank. This division has sometimes at its head the chief of the nation, if he has signalized himself by any re- nowned action, if not, some chief that has rendered himself famous. . ,,: . .»^ In their councils, which are held by the fore- going members, every affair of consequence is debated , and no enterprize of the least moment undertaken, unless it there meets with the general approbation of the chiefs. They commonly as- semble in a hut or tent appropriated to this pur- pose, an^ being seated in a circle on the ground, the eldest' chief rises and makes a speech; when he has concluded, another gets up, and thus they all speak if necessary by turns. ^^ ^ On this occasion their language is nervous, and their manner of expression emphatical. Their $tyle is adorned with images, compaiisons, a{i4 w close to their sides, move first a few yards to the [right, and then back again to the left. This move- [ment they perform without taking any steps af Ian American would do, but with their feet con- [joined, moving by turns their toes and heels. Ii| [this manner they glide with great agility to a cer- . tain distance and then return ; and let those who [join in the dance be ever so numerous, they keep [time so exactly with each other that no interrup- Ition ensues. During this, at stated periods, they lingle their shrill voices, with the hoarser ones of |t1ie men, who sit around ( for it is to be observed that the sexes never intermix in the same dance) which, with the music of the drums and chichicoes, [make an agreeable harmony. . * - The Indians have several kinds of dances, which ihey use on different occasions, as the pipe or ca- lumet (lance, the war dance, the marriage dance, mU the dance of the sacrifice. The movements in :veiy one of these are dissimilar ; but it is almost V- ,;.i V 58 NEW TRAVELS J' ^ impossible to convey any idea of the points in '^^ which they are unlike. Different nations likewise vary in their manner of dancing. The Chipaway throw themselves in- to a greater variety of attitudes than any other people ; sometimes they hold their heads erect, atj others they bend them almost to the ground : then I recline on one side, and immediately after on thej other. Others carry themselves more upright, step firmer, and move more gracefully ; but they 1 all accompany their dances with the disagreeable! noise just mentioned. The pipe dance is the principal, and the most pleasing to a spectator of any- of theni, being the least frantic, and the i|iovements of it most grace- mi. It is but on particular occasions that it is used ; as when ambassadors from an enemy arrive to treat of peace, or when strangers of eminence pass through their territories. '* The war dance, which they use both before they set out on their war parties, and on their return from them, strikes terror into strangers. It is peformed like the others, amidst a circle of the warriors ; a chief generally begins it, who moves from the right to the left singing at the same time both his own exploits, and those of his ances- tors. When he has concluded his account of any memorable action, he gives a violent blow with his war club, . against a post that is fixed in the ground, near the centre of the assembly, for thi« purpose. ""^i »^ - AMO^ the INDIANS. 69 Every one dances in his turn, and recapitulates he wonderous deeds of his family, till they all at ist join in the dance. Thle'n it becomes truly llarming to any stranger that happens to be among [hem, as they throw themselves into every horrid >le and terrifying posture that can be imagined, Rehearsing at the same time the parts they expect [o act against their enemies in the field. During [his they hold their sharp knives in their hands, rith which, as they whirl about, they are every jomentin danger of cutting each other's throats; ^nd did they not shun the threatened mischief rith inconceivable dexterity, it could not be a- roided. By these motions they intend to repre- sent the manner in which they kill, scalp, and take [heir prisoners. To heighten the scene, they set ip the same hideous yells, cries, and war-whoops [hey use in time of action ; so that it is impossi-^ )le to consider them in any other light than as an issembly of demons. After some hours spent in dancing the feast be- gins ; the'^'dishes being brought near me, I per- ceived that they consisted of dog's flesh ; and I ras informed that at all their public grand feasts} [hey never use any other kind of food. ^^ -^>^ In this custom of eating dog's flesh on particu- ir occasions, they resemble the inhabitants of |ome of the countries that lie on the north-east bor- |ers of Asia. The author oF the account of Kam- chatka, published by order of the Empress of I.u&sia, informs us, that the people inhabiting, ^oreka,a country ndrth of Kam&chatka, who wan- •'-•> • > w ■i 1. *,v*l, I'. ■^- 50 NEW TRAVELS ^ ' der aboilt in hordes like the Arabs, when they pay their worship to the evil being, kill a rein deer or a dog, the flesh of which they eat, and leave the head and tongue sticking on a pole with the front towards the east. Also, that when they are afraid of any infectious distemper, they kill a dug, and '/ winding the guts about two poles, pass between them. These customs, in which the^ are nearly imitated by the Indians, seem to add stiength to my supposition, that America was first peopled from this quarter, . < % ♦* i know not,** says s^ traveller among them, ♦* under what class of dances to rank that per^ formed by the Indians who came to my tent when I landed near Lake Pepin, on the banks of the Mississippi. When 1 looked out, as I there men- tioned, I saw about twenty naked young Indians, the most perfect in their shape, and by far the handsomest of any I had ever seen, coming to- wards me, and dancing as they approached, to the music of their drums. At every ten or twelve yards they halted, and set up their yelh and cries. >rv " When they reached my tent, I asked tliem to come in ; which, without deigning to make me any answer, they did. As I observed^that they were painted red and black, as they usually are when they go against an enemy, and perceived that some parts of the war dance were intermixed with their other movements, I doubted not but they were set on by the inimical cKief who had refused my salutation; I therefore determined to jf ;*• ♦ AMONG THE IHDIANS. 61 sell my life as dear as possible. To this purpose, I received them sitting on my chest with my gun, and pistols beside me, and ordered my men to keep a watchful eye on them, and to be also upon their guard. • * " The Indians being entered, they continued their dance alternately, singing at the same time of their heroic exploits, and the superiority of their race over every other people. To enforce their language, though it was uncommonly ner* vous and expressive, and such as would of itself have carried terror to the firmest heart ; at the end of every period they struck their war clubs against the poles of my tent with such violence, that I expected every moment it would have tum- bled upon us. As each of them, in dancing^ round, passed by me, they placed their right hand ' ' above their eyes, and coming close to me, l06ked steadily in my face, which I could not construe into a token of friendship. My men gave them- 11 selves up for lost, and I acknowledge, for my own > part, that I never found my ajjprehensibns more tumultuous on any occasion, ^ " When they had nearly ended their dance, I presented to them the pipe of peace, but they would not receive it. I then, as my last resource, t thought I would try what presents would do; ac- .^ cordingly I took from my chest some ribbons and trinkets, which I laid before them. These seenitd to stagger their resolutions, and to avert in some degree their anger; for after holding a consultation together, they sat down on the Xv 1 r' . 6« WE# THAVEL^ ♦ ground, which I considered as a iavdafabf^ omen. '-'•''• , \ * *■»' • ' '* Thus it proved, for in a short time they re- ceived the pipe of peace, and lighting if, first presented it to me, and then smoked with it them- selves. Soon after they took up the presents, which had hitherto lain neglected, and appearing to be greatly pleased with them, departed in a fi-iendly manner. And never did I receive greater pleasure than' at getting rid of such formidable guests. : ■ •• /?^■<-^ .^'-'--^.r >■''-'■- *' It never was in my power to gain a thorough knowledge of the designs of vny visitors. 1 had sufficient reason to conclude that they were hos- tile, and that their visit, at so late an hour, was made through the instigation of the Grand Sautor ; but I was atter\V^ards informed that it might be in- tended as a complimtnt which they usually pay to the chiefs of every other nation who happen to '% fall in with them, and that the circumstances in their conduct which had appeared so suspicious to me, were merely the effects of their vanity, and designed to impress qu the minds of those whom they thus visited, an elevated opinion of their va- lour and prowess. In the morning before I con- f* tinned my route, several of their wives brought me a present of some sugar, for whom 1 found a - few more ribbons. ' ** The dan<:e of the sacrifice is not so denomi- nated from their offering up at the same time a sa- crifice to any good or evil spirit, but is a dance to which the Naudowessies give that title, from being used when any public fortunate circumstance be- AMONG THE INDIANS. 63 fals them. Whils I resided among them, a fine large deer accidentally strayed into the middle of their encampment, which they soon destroyed. As this happened just at the new moon, they es- teemed it a lucky omen; and having roasted it whole, every one in the camp partook of it. After their feast, they all joined in a dance, which they termed, from its being somewhat of a religious nature,,,a dance of the sacrifice."* * Hunting is the principal occupation of the In- dians ; they are trained to it from their youth, and it is an exercise which is esteemed no less honour-^ able tl)an necessary towards their subsistence. A dexterous and resolute hunter is held in nearly as great estimation by them as a distinguished war- rior. Scarcely any devise, which the ingenuity of man ha|i disco vei-ed, for ensnaritfg or de- stroying those animals that supply them with food, or whoie skins are valuable, is unknown to them. Whilst they arc engaged in thi^ exercise, they shake oiF the indolence peculiar to their nature, and become active, persevering, and indefatigable. They are equally sagacious in finding their prey, and in the means they use to destroy it. They dis- cern the footsteps of the beasts they are in pursuit of, althoui^ they are imperceptible to every other eye, and catf follow them with certainty through the pathless forest. The beasts that the Indians hunt, both for their *^. K .-•;■• ■.. * See Dr. Hubbard*:) compilation of Indian History. -^ «fe. «&>■ .^' r^. Rl I vHI W 01 . NEW TRAVEL* ^. fleshi on which they subsist, and for their stcinf, which serve them either for apparel, or to barter with Europeans for iiecessarier, are the buffalo, elk, dser, moose, carriboo, bear, beaver, otter, martin,, &c. I defer giving a description of these animals here, and shall only, at present, treat of the manner of hunting them. ■^ The route they shall take for this purpose, and tfle parties that shall go on the different expe|litions, are fixed in their general councils,^ which are held some time in the summer, when all the operations for the eii;uing winter are setded. The chief Warrior, whosft^ province it is to regulate their proceedfnffs on this ^occasion, witji great solem- nity issues out an invitation to those tiffio choosv? to attend him; for the Indians, as before ob- strved, acknowledge no superiority, nor hajre they any idea of compulsion ; and every qpie that accepts the invitation, prepares himsdf By fasting ■ during several days. « ^ * ■,% The Indians do not fast as some other nations do, on the richest and most luxurious food, but totally abstain from every kind, either of victuals ^ or* drink ^ and such is their patience and resolu- tion, that the most extreme thirst could not in- duce them to taste a drop of water ; yet amidst this severe abstinence they appear cheerful and liappy. -t The reasons they give for thus fasting, are, that it enables them freely to dream, in which dreams they are informed where they shall find the great- est plenty of game; also that it averts the dis- iiep ^ ^,-*' W:'. AMONG THE INDIAN! 65 pleasure of the evil spirits, and induces them ta be propitious. They also on these occasions blacken those parts of their bodies that are un- covered. -^ # . •' . ^....■, . w. The fast being ended, and the place of hunting made known, the chief, who is to conduct them, gives a grand feast to those who are to form the different parties ; of which none of them dare to partake till they have bathed. At this feast, not- withstanding they have fasted so long, luey eat with great moderation ; and the ciiief who pre- sides employs himself in rehearsing the feats of those who have been most successful in the busi- ness they are about to enter upon. They soon af- ter set out on the march towards the place appoint- ed, painted or rather bedaubed with black, amidst the acclamations of all the people. It is impossible to describe their agility or per- severance, whilst they are in pursuit of their prey ; neither thickets, ditches, torrents, pools, nor rivers stop them ; they always go straight forward in the most direct line they possibly can, and there are few of the savage inhabitants of the woods that they cannot overtake. " • ^ < When they hunt for bears, they endeavour to find out their retreats; for during tlie winter, these animals conceal themselves in the hollow trunks of trees, or make themselves holes in the ground, where they continue without food, whilst the se- vere weather lasts. . v When the Indians think they have arrived at a place where these animals usually haunt, they form W'' .*-■ li f iif ' NEW TRAVELS tlicmselves into a circle according to tluvr i'^ni- ber, and moving onward, endeavour, as tlu .\'l- Tancc towards the centre, to discover the retreats of their prey. By this means, if any lie in the intermediate space, they are sure of arousing and bringing them down, either with their bows or their guns. The bears will take to flight at sight of a man or a dog, and will only make resistance when they are extremely hungry, or after they .are wounded. ^' * '*^' -^ The Indian method of hunting the buifalo is, by forming a circle or a square, nearly in the same manner as when they search for the bear. Having taken their different stations, thiey set the grass, which at this time is rank and dry, on fire, and these animals, who are extremely fearful of that element, flying with precipitation before it, great numbers are hemmed in a small compass, and scarcely a single one escapes. ■ They have different ways of hunting the elk, the deer, and the carriboo. Sometimes they seek them out in the woods, to which they retire dur- ing the severity of the cold, where they are easily shot from behind the trees. In the more northern climates they take the advantage of the weather to destroy the elk ; when the sun has just strength enough to melt the snow, and the frost in the night forms a kind of crust on the surface, this animal being heavy, breaks it with his forked hoofs, and with difficulty extricates himself from it : at this time, therefore, he is soon overtaken and destroyed. the elk, ley seek ire dui- ire easily northern weather strength st in the face, this is forked iself from overtaken AMONG THE INDIANS. 67 Some nations have a method of hunting these animals which is more easily executed, and free from danger. The hunting party divides into two hands, and choosing a spot near the bord- ers of some river, one party embarks on board their canoes, whilst the other, forming them- selves into a semicircle on the land, the flanks of which reach the shore, let loose their dogs, and by this means rouse all the game that lies within these bounds; they then drive them towards the river, into which they no sooner enter, than the greatest part of them are immediately dispatched by those who remain in the canoes. : . ' > - ,• . Both the elk and buffalo are very furious when they are wounded, and will return fiercely on their pursuers, and trample them under their feet, if tlie hunter finds no means to complete their de- struction, or does not seek for security in flight tft some adjacent tree ; by this method they are frequently avoided, and so tired with the pursuit, that they voluntarily give it over. «» But the hunting in which the Indiatis, particu- larly those who inhabit the northern parts, chiefly employ themselves, and from which they reap the greatest advantage, is that of the beaver. The season for this lasts the whole of the winter, from November to April ; during which time the fur of these animals is in the greatest perfection. A de- scription of this extraordinary animal, the con- struction of their huts, and the regulations of their almost rational community, I shall give in another place. ^ .» r 2 .'^^ - : ill ■■**. 6s . NEW TRAVELS The hunters make use of several methods tcr destroy them. Those generally practised, are ei- ther taking them in snares, cutting through the ice, or opening their causeways. As the eyes of these animals are very quick, and their hearing exceedingly acute, great precaution is necessary in approaching their hodies; for as they seldom go far from the water, and their houses are always built close to the side of son)e large river or lake, or dams of their own con- struction, upon the least alarm they hasten to the deepest part of the water, and dive immediately to the bottom ; as they do this they make a great noise by beating the water with their tails, on purpose to put the whole fraternity on their guard. They are taken with snares, in the following manner: — though the beavers usually lay up a sufficient store of provision to serve for their sub- sistence during the winter, from lime to time they make excursions to the, neighbouring woods, to procure further supplies. The hunters having found out their haunts, place a trap in their way, baited with small pieces of bark, pr young shoots of trees, which the beaver has no sooner laid hold of, than a large log of wood falls upon him and breaks his back ; his ene- mies, who are upon the watch, soon appear, and in- stantly dispatch the helpless animal. At other timCvS, when the ice on the rivers and lakes is about half a foot thick, they make an open- ijig through it with their hatchets, to which liiei .*.. iilO- AMONG THE INDIANS. 69 Ijeavefs will soon hasten, on being disturbed at their houses, for a supply of fresh air. As their breath occasions a considerable motion in the water, the hunter has suffiqient notice of their app.oach, and methods are easily taken for knock- ing tliem on the head tiie moment they appear above the surface. . " When the houses of the beavers happen to be near a rivulet, they are more easily destroyed: the hunters then cut the ice, and spreading a net under it, break down the cabins of the beavers, who never fail to make towards the deepest part, where they are entangled and taken. But they must not be suffered to remain there long, as tbey would soon extricate themselves with their ^ teeth, which are well known to be excessively sharp and strong. The Indians take great care to hinder their dogs from touching the bones of the beavers. The reasons they give for these precautions, are, first, that the bones are so excessively hard, that they spoil ti)e teeth of the dogs; and secondly, .that they are apprehensive they shall so exas- perate the spirits of the beavers by this permis- sion, as to render the next hunting season unsuc- cessful. ' • ' When the Indians destroy buffaloes, elks, deer, &c. they generally divide the flesh of such as they have taken among the tribe to which they belong. But in hunting the beaver a few families usuallj'' unite, and divide the spoil between them. Indeed, ill the first instance they generally pay some at- ■'«»• § *?■ #f #» h'''T 1 NEW TRAVELS tention in the division to their own families; but no jealousies or murmurrngs are ever known to arise on account of any apparent partiality. Among the Naudowessies, if a person shoots a deer, buffalo, &c. and it runs a considerable dis- tance before it drop?, where a person belonging to another tribe, being nearer, first sticks a knife into i^ the game is considered as the property of the latter, notwithstanding it had been uiortally wounded by the former. Though this custom appears to be arbitrary and unjust, yet that peo- ple cheerfully submit to it. This decision is, however, very different from that practised by the Indians on the back -of the colonics, where the first person that hits is entitled to the best sliare> ?, •■ '^'' ''^*'.',:r The Indians begin to bear arms at the age of fifteen, and lay them aside when they arrive at the age of sixty. Some nations to the southward^ I have been informed, do not continue their mili- tary exertions after they are fifty. In every band or natidh there is a select num- ber who are styled the warriors, and who are al- ways ready to act either offensively or defensively, as occasion requires. These are well armed, bear- ing the weapons commonly used among them, which vary according to the situation of their countries. Some make use of tomahawks, knives^ and fire-arms; but Uiose who have not an oppor- tunity of purchasing these kinds of weapons, use bows and arrows, and also the Casse Tete, or War Club. ■^ * '» AMONG THE INDIANS. 71 'the Indians that inhabit still further to the westward, a country which extends to the South Sea, use in fight a warlike instrument that is very uncommon. Having great plenty of horses, they always attack their enemies on horseback, aiid encumber themselves with no other weapon, than a stone of a middling siae, curiously wrought, which they fasten by a string, about ayatd and a half long, to their right arms, a little above the elbow. These stones they conveniently carry ia their hands, till they reach their enemies, and then swinging them with great dexterity, as they ride full speed, never fail of doing execution. The country which these tribes possess, abounding with large extensive plains, those who attack them seldom return, as the swiftness of the horses on which they are mounted, enables thenj to overtake even the fleetest of their invaders. I was informed, that unless they found morasses or thickets, to which they could retire, they were sure of being cut off; to prevent this they always took care whenever they made an on«et, to do it near such retreats as are impassable for caralry, having then a great advantage over their enemies, whose weapons would not there reach them. Some nations make use of a javelin, pointed with bone, worked into different forms; but the Indian weapons in general are bows and arrows, and the short club already mentioned. The latter is made of a very hard wood, and the head of it fashioned round like a b;)ll, about three inches and ahalf diameter ; in tliis rotund part is fixed an . *■ r 4 It •? -NEW TRAVELS edge resembling that of a tomahawk, cither of steel or flint, whichsoever they can procure, r * * The dagger is peculiar to some nations, and of ancient construction ; but they can give no account how long it has been in use among them. It was originally made of flint or bone, but since they have had communication with the European tra- ders, they have formed it of steel. The length is about ten inches, and that part close to the handle nearly three inches broad. Its edges are keen, and it gradually tapers towards a point. They wear it in a sheath made of deer's leather, neatly ornamented M'ith porcupine quills; and it is usually hung by a string, decorated in the same manner, which reaches as low as the breast. This curious weapon is worn by a lew of the prin- cipal chiefs alone, and considered both as a use- ful instrument, and an ornamental badge of super riority.';'" ■'•*■'•'" •' ' • ■■•■'?■ • - - ■'' " -^#''*;;' I observed among them a few targets, or shields, made of raw bufi^alo hides, and in the form of those used by the ancients : but as the number of these was small, and I could gain no intelligence of the asra in which they first were introduced among them, I suppose those I saw had descended from father to son, for many generations. . ^ 'afe "^ The reasons the Indians give for making war against one another, are much the same as those urged by more civilized nations for disturbing the tranquillity of their neighbours. The pleas of the tbrmer are, however, in general more rational and ^ # % mos eacl the % AMONG THE INDIANS. 75 just, than such as are brought by Europeans in vindication of their proceedhigs. The extension of empire is seldom a motive with these people to invade, and to commit depre- datioids on the territories of those who happen to dwell near them. To secure the rights of hunting within particular limits, to maintain the liberty of passing through their accustomed tracks, and to guard those lands which they consider from a long tenure as their own, against any infringement, arc the general causes of those dissentions that so often break out between the Indian nations, and which are carried on with so much animosity. % Though strangers to the idea of separate proper- ty, yet the most uncultivated among them are well acquainted with the rights of their community to the domains they possess, and oppose with vigour ever}^ encroachment on them. Notwithstanding it is generally supposed that from their territories being so extensive, the boundaries of them cannot be ascertained, yet I am well assured that the limits of each nation in the interior parts are laid down in their rude plans with great precision. By their's, as I have* before observed, was I enabled to regulate my mvu ; and after the most exact observations and inquiiies I found but a very few instances in which they erred. But interest is not either the most frequent or most powerful incentive to their making war on each other. The passion of revenge* which is the distinguishing characteristic of these people, » ^ ^% 74 NEW TBAVEL* is the most general motive. Injuries are felt by them with exquisite sensibility, and vengeance pursued with unremitted ardour. To this may he added, that natural excitation which every In- dian is sensible of, as soon as he approaches the age of manhood, to give proof of his valour and prowess. , As they are early possessed with a notion that WdY ought to be the chief business of their lives, that there is nothing more desirable than the repu- tation of being a great warrior, and that the scalps of their enemies, or a number of prisoners, arc alone to be esteemed valuable, it is not to be won- dered at, that the young Indians are continually fcstless and uneasy if their ardour is repressed, and they are kept in a state of inactivity. Either of these propensities, the desire of revenge or the gratification of an impulse, that by degrees be- come habitual to them, is sufficient, frequently, to induce them to commit hostilities on some of the neighbouring nations. <* When the chiefs find any occasion for making war, tliey endeavour to arouse their prejudices, and by that means soon excite their warriors to take arms. For this purpose they make use of tlieir martial eloques e, iVvarly in the following words, which never inil of provi g eifectual : "The bones of our deceased countrymen lie uncovered, they call out to us to revenge their wrongs, and we must satisfy their request. Their spirits cry out against us. They mast be appeased. The geuii, who are the guardians of our honour, inspire cs, ter \vi! en( ^ ♦ \ ^ AMONG THE INDIANS. 75 US with a resolution to seek \he enemies of our iniirclered brothers. Let us go and devour those by whom they were slain. Sit here no longer inactive, give way to the impulse of your natural valour, anoint your hair, paint your faces, fill your quivers, cause the forest to resound with your songs, console the spirits of the dead, and tell them they shall be revenged." Animated by the&e exhortations, the warriors snatch their arms in a transport of fury, sing the songs of war, and burn with impatience to im- brue their hands in the blood of their enemies. Sometimes private chiefs assemble small parties and make excursions against those with whom they are at war, or such as have injured. them. A sin- gle warrior, prompted by revenge or a desire to show his prowess, will march unattended for seve- ral hundred miles, to surprise and cut off a strag- gling party. Tliese irregular sallies, however, are not always approved of by the elder chiefs, though they are of- ten obliged to connive at them. ' But when a war is national, and undertaken by the community, their deliberations are formal and slow. The elders assemble in council, to which all the head warriors and young men are admitted, where they deliver their opinions in solemn speech- es, weighing with maturity the nature of the en- terprise they are about to engage in, and balancing with great sagacity the advantages or inconveni- ences that will arise from it. Their priests are also consulted on the subject; f^ Hffi :l I 1 A. ^6 4 fO . ,:,. NEW TRAVELS and even, sometimes, the advice of the most in- tellis^ent of their women is asked. "J^ If the determination be for war, they. prepare . " for it with much ceremony. The cliief warrior of a nation does not on all occasions head the war party himself, he frequently .f deputes a warrior of whose valour and prudence he has a good opinion. The person thus fixed on being first bedaubed with black, observes a fast of several days, during which he invokes the Great Spirit, or deprecates the anger of the evil ones, holding, whilst it lasts, no converse with any of his tribe. - • :^ He is particularly careful at the same time to observe his dreams, for on these do they suppose their success will in a great measure depend ; and from the firm persuasion every Indian, actuated ' by his own presumptuous thoughts, is impressed * with, that he shall march forth to certain victory, these are generally favourable to his wishes. After he has fasted as long as custom prescribes, he assembles the warriors, and holding a belt of wampum in his hand, thus addresses them : " Brothers ! by the inspiration of the Great Spirit I now speak unto you, and by him am I prompted to carry into execution the intentions which I am about to disclose to you. The blood of our deceased brothers is not yet wiped away ; y their bodies are not yet covered, and I am going to perform this duty to them." • -V Having then made kno\yn all the motives that induced him to take up arms against the nation «. V AMONG THE INDIANS. ^^ 77 %ith whom they are to engage, he tlms proceeds : •*I have therefore resolved to march through the warpatHHo surprise them. We will eat their flesh, and drink their blood ; we will take scalps, and make prisoners ; and should we perish in this glo- rious enterprise we shall not be for ever hidden in the dust, for this belt shall be a recompense to him who buries the dead." Having said tliis he lays the belt on the ground, and he who takes it up declares himself his lieutenant, and is considered as the second in command ; this, however 's only done by some distinguished warrior who ^as a right, by the number of his scalps, to the post. Though the Indians thus assert that they will cat the flesh and drink the blood of their enemies, the threat is only to be considered as a figurative expression. Notwithstanding they sometimes devour the hearts of those they slay, and drink their blood, by way of bravado, or to gratify in a more complete manner their revenge. The chief is now washed from his sable cover- ing, anointed with bear's fat, and painted with their red paint, in such figures as will make him appear most terrible to his enemies. He then singb tlie war song, and enumerates his warlike actions. Having done this he fixes his eyes on the sun, and pays his adoration to the Great Spirit, in which he is accompanied by all the warriors. This ceremony is followed ivith dances, such as I have before described ; and the whole concludes with SI feast which lisually consists of dog's flesh. .^ *^ mf 'i 7^ NEW .TRAVELS This feast is held in tlie hut or tent of the chief warrior, to which all those who intend to accom- pany him in his expedition send their dishes to he filled; and during the feast, notwithstanr'-rg he has fasted so long, he sits composedly wlih liis pipe in his mouth, and recounts the valouious deeds of his family. As th' hopes of having their wounds, should they receive any, properly treated and expeditious- ly cured, nuist be some additional inducement to the warri( rs to expose themselves more freely to danger, the pri^ sts, who are also their doctors, pi pare such medicines as will prove efficacious. With great ceremony they carry various roots and plants, and pretend that they impart to them the power of healing. ' ; Notwithstanding ihis superstitious method of proceeding, it is very certain that they have ac- quired a Kuov/ledge of many plants and herbs that are of a medicinal quality, and which they know how to use with great skill. From tlie time the resolution of engaging in war is taken, to the departure of the warriors, the nights are spent in festivity, and their days in mak- ing the needful preparations. : . -. > ;^ , If it is thought necessary by the nation going to war, to solicit the alliance of any neighbmiring tribe, they fix u()on one of their chiefs, who speaks the language of that people well, and who is a good orator, and send to them by him a belt of wampum, on which is specified the purport of the -«•- «Sf # AMONG THE INDIANS. f# fmbassy in figures that every nation is well ac- quainted with. At the same lime he carries with him a hatchet painted red. As soon as he reaches the camp or village to « which he is destined, he acquaints tlie chief of the tribe with the general tenor of his commission, who immediately assembles a council, to which the ambassador is invited. There havino; laid the hatchet on the ground he holds the belt in \\i% hand, and enters more minutely into the occasion of his embassy. In his speech he iu tcs them to take up the hatchet, and as soon as 1 as finished speaking delivers the belt. ik ^ , If his hearers are inclined to become auxiliaries to his nation, a chief steps forward and takes up the hatchet, and they immediately espouse with spirit the cause they have thus engaged to support. But if on this application neither the belt nor hatchet are accepted, the emissary concludes that the peo- ple whose assistance he solicits have already en- tered into an alliance with the foes of his nation, and returns with speed to inform his countrymen of his ill success. « v m^ • The manner in whicli the Indians declare war against each other, is by sending a slave with a hatchet, the handle of which is paintetl red, to the nation which they intend to break with; aud the messen||er, notwithstanding the danger to which he is exposed from the sudden fury of those whom he thus sets at defiance, executes his commission with great fidelity. ;^ Sometimes this token of defiance has such an in- iV tag. ,v ■m «ai' Pf IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) J ^ 4^ 1.0 1.1 liii lii 122 I? BA ■" 2.0 14.0 1^ II& b" ^[ ^v .V^^^y ^>V // V Photographic Sdmoes Corparalkxi 4^ \\ .•>^ 23 WMT MAM STRIIT WIUTM,N.V. 14SM (71*)«72-4S0S ^^^y* '^W^ 4^^ ^ ;\ I fto KEW TRAVELS *.%■ stantaneous effect oirtlose to whom it is present ed, that in the first transports of their fury a small .party will issue forth, without waiting for the per- mission of the elder chiefs, and slaying the first of the offending nation they meet, cut open the body, and stick a hatchet of the same kind as that they just received, into the heart of their slaugh- tered foe. Among the more remote tribes this is done with an arrow or spear, the end of which is painted red. And the more to exasperate, they dismember the body to show that they esteem them not as men, but as old women. >■ The Indians seldom take the field in large bo- dies, as such numbers would require a greater de- gree of industry to provide for their subsistence, during their tedious marches through dreary fo- rests, or long voyages over lakes and rivers, than they would care to bestow. Their armies are never encumbered with bag- gage or military stores. Each warrior, besides his iveapons, carries with him only a mat, and whilst at a distance from the frontiers of the enemy sup- ports himself with the game he kills or the fish he catches. . v '^ •-^: *. -^ti" When they pass through a country where they have no apprehensions of meeting with an* enemy, they use very little precaution ; sometimes tliere are scarcely a dozen warriors left togetbefy the rest being in pursuit of their game ; but though they should have roved to a very considerable distance from the warpath, they are sure to arrive at the place of rendezvous by the hour appointed. ^ • w AMONG TUS^ INDIANS. 61 ■Ml They always pitch thefPlents long before sun-' «et ; an(l bejng naturally presumptuous, take very kittle care to guard against a surprise. They place great confidence in their Maui tous, or household gods, which t!hey always carry with them ; and being persuaded that they take upon them the office of centinels, they sieep very securely under Iheir protection. These Manitous, as they are called by some na- tions, but M'hich are termed Wakons, that is, spi- rits, by the Naudowessies, are nothing more than the otter and martin skins I have already de- scribed, for which, however, tlvey have a great veneration. After they have entered the en€my*s country, no people can be more cautious and circumspect ; ^res are no longer lighted, no more shouting is heard, nor the game any longer pursued. They are not even permitted to speak ; but must con* vey whatever they have to impart to each other, by signs and motions. They now proceed wholly by stratagem and ambuscade. Haying discovered their enemies, they send to recopnoitre them ; and a council is immediately held, during which they speak only in whispers, to consider of the intelligence impartr ed by those who were sent out. The ^ttack is generally made just before day break, at which period they suppose their foes to be in the soundest sleep. Throughout the whole of the preceding night they will lie flat upon their f^ces, without stirring ; an4 make their approaches I * S* ^ NEW TRAVELS in the same posture, Creeping upon their hands and feet till they are got within bow shot of those they have destined to destruction. On a signal given by the chief warrior, to which the whole body makes answer by the most hideous yells, they all start up, and discharging their arrows in the same instant, without giving their adversaries time to recover from the confusion into which they are thrown, pour in upon them with their war clubs or tomahawks. ,. .. The Indians think there is little glory to be ac-. quired from attacking their enemies openly in the field ; their greatest pride is to surprise and destroy. They seldom engage with a manifest appearance of disadvantage. If they find the enemy on their guard, too strongly entrenched, or superior in iiumbers, they retire, provided there is an op- }>ortunity of doing so. And they esteem it the greatest qualification of a chief warrior, to be able to manage an attack, so as to destroy as many of the enemy as possible, at the expense of a few inen. When the Indians succeed in their silent ap- proaches and are able to force the camp which they attack, a scene of horror that exceeds description ensues. The savage fierceness of the conquerors, and the desperation of the conquered, who well know what they have to expect should they fall alive into the hands of their assailants, occasion the most extraordinary exertions on both sides. The figure of the combatants all besmeared with black and red paint, and covered with the blood 4-" AMONG THE INDIANS. 83 ) be ac- f in the lestroy. earance on their erior in an op- m it the , to be as many of a few ilent ap- iich they scription iquerors, who well they fall occasion 3th sides, ared with the blood 'V' of the slain, their horrid y&lls and ungovernable fury, are not to be conceived by those who have never «een them. Though the Indians are negli- gent in guarding against surprise, they are alert and dexterous in surprising their enemies. To their caution and perseverance in stealing on tlie party they design to attack, they add that admi- rable talent, or rather instinctive qualification 1 have already described, of tracing out those they are in pursuit of. On the smoothest grass, on the hardest earth, and even on the very stones, will they discover the traces of an enemy, and by the shape of the footsteps, and the distance between the prints, distinguish not only whether it is a man or woman who has passed that way, but even the nation to which they belong. However incre- dible this'might appear, yet, from the many proofs I received, whilst among them, of their amazing sagacity in this point, I see no reason to discredit even these extraordinary exertions of it. When they have overcome an enemy, and vic- tory is no longer doubtful, the conquerors first dispatch all sucli as they think they shall not be able to carry off without great trouble, and then endeavour to take as many prisoners as possible; after this they return to' scalp those who are ei- ther dead, or too much wounded to be taken with thtm. At this business they are exceedingly expert. They seize the head of the disabled or dead enemy, and placing one of their feet on the neck, twist their left hand in the hair ; by this means, luiving ^^''"%Tt:~ ' Sence. con- they are designed to convey _ ^hen this • ^^---'^»"':;:i"""ageissneont ceremony « perfo med t ^^^^ j^^^^ ^° 't" f Eal terns; and accordingly, as the just heard m general ten , ^^^^ ^„^ ^ . news proves mournful, o. tne : ^^^^ ,ver by so many acctemations or cues ' *'"« • Iw this time arrived at the village or ca^th^wren and chi.d.n^^ j;-^^^^^^^^ - ^vUh sticks and bin g^n,.-^^ 'T TtoTa's Se treatment they undergo be- SSeyS the extremity of the line. .sver> anng ate to [)f the J they ty are jer of le best former .vhoop, till the ■ with a ;er is a i piodii- i before lard to a :o whom ice, con- ^hen this issue out hey have r\y, as the they ans- lamenta- village or [hemselves themselves isoners are ttclergo be- ne, is very AMONG THE INDIANS. 87 severe. Sometimes they are so beaten over the head and face, as to have scarcely any remains of life ; and happy would it be for them if by this usage an end was put to their wretched beings. But their tormentors take care that none of the blows they give prove mortal, as they wish to reserve the mi- serable sufferers for more severe inflictions. ^ After having undergone this introductory dis- cipline, they are bound hand and foot, whilst the chiefs hold a council in which their fate is deter- mined. Those who are decreed to be put to 4leath by the usual torments, are delivered to the chief of the warriors ; such as are to be spared, are given into the hands of the chief of the nation : so that in a short time all the prisoners may be assured of their fate, as the sentence now pro- nounced is irrevocable. The former they term being consigned to the house of death, the latter to the house of grace. Such captives as are pretty far advanced in life, and have acquired great honour by their warlike deeds, always atone for the blood they have spilt by the tortures of fire. . Their success in war is readily known by the blue marks upon their breasts and arms, which are sis legible to the Indians as letters are to Americans. ' >» The manner in which these hieroglyphics aye made, is by breaking tlie skin with the teeth of fish, gd: sharpened flints, dipped in a kind of it\k| made of the soot 'of pitch pine. Like those of the ancient Picts of Britain, these are esteemed orna- mental ; and at the same time they serve as regis- ,>^.:- 88 NEW TRAVELS " N ters of the heroic actions of the M'arrior, who thus bears about him indelible marks of his valour. ^ ' The prisoners destined to death are soon led to the place of execution, which is generally in the centre of the camp or village ; where, being stript, and every part of their bodies blackened, the skin of a crow or raven is fixed on their heads. They are then bound to a stake^ with faggots heaped around them, and obliged, for the last time, to sing their death song. The warriors, for suul> only commonly suffer this punishment, now perform in a more prolix manner this sad solemnity. They recount with an audible voice all the brave actions they have performed, and pride themselves In the number of enemies they have killed. In this rehearsal they spare not even their tormentors, but strive by every provoking tale they can invent, to irritate and insult them. Sometimes this has the desired effect, and the sufferers are dispatched sooner than they otherwise would have been. There ace many other methods which the In- dians employ to put their prisoners to death, but these are only occasional; that of burning is mosfi generally used. This method of tormenting their enemies is con- sidered by the Indians as productive of more than one beneficial consequence. It satiates, in a greater degree, that diabolical lust of revenge, which is the predominant passion in the breast of every- individual of every tribe, and itgives the growing warriors an early propensity to that cruelty and of; WOll Glii( con g»v< 'cercised by the Indians towards those of their own spe- cies who fall into their hands^ some tribes have been very remarkable for their moderation to such female prisoners, belonging to the English colonies* as have happened to be taken by them. Women of great beauty have frequently been carried pflP by them, and during a march of three or four hun- dred miles, through their retired forests, have lain by their sides without receiving any insult, and their chastity has remained inviolate. Instances Iwve happened, where female captives, who have been pregnant at the time of their being taken, have found the pangs of child-birth come upon them in the noidst of solitary woods, and savages their only companions ; yet from these, savages as they were, have they received every assistance their situations would admit of, and been treated with a degree of delicacy and humanity they little expected. Those prisoners that are consigned to the house of grace, and these are commonly the young men, women, and chHdren, await the disposal of the chiefs, who, after the execution of such as are condemned to die,,hold a council for this purpose. A herald is sent round the village or camp, to give notice that such as have lost any relations in the late expedition, are desired to attend the dis- tributioa which is about to take place. Those wo-^ •■ ■%■■■ !l 1.; SO NEW TRAVELS men who hav« lost their sons or husbands, are generally satisfied in the fir^L^^ace ; after these, such as liave been deprfved of friends of a more remote degree of consanguinity, or who choose to adopt some of the youth. The division being made, which is done, as in other cases, without the least dispute, those who have received any share, lead them to their tents or huts ; and having unbound them, wash and dress their wounds, if they happen to have received any ; they then clothe them, and give the most comfort- able and refreshing food their store will afford. Whilst their new domestics are feeding, they endeavour to administer consolation to them ; they tell them that as they are redeemed from death, they must now be cheerful and happy ; and if they serve them well, without murmuring or repining, nothing shall be wanting to make them such atone- ment for the loss of their country and friends as circumstances will allow. If any men are spared, they are commonly given to the widows that have lost their husbands by the hand of the enemy, should there be any such, to whom, if they happen to prove agreeable, they are soon married. But should the dame be other- wise engaged, the life of him who falls to her lot is in great danger ; especially if she fancies that her late husband wants a slave in the country of spirits to which he is gone. . * When this is the case, a number of young men take tlie devoted captive to some distance, and dis- patch him without any c€remony. After he has AMONG THE INDIANS. f%r been spared by the council, they consider him of too little consequence to he entitled to the tor- ments allotted to those who have been judged worthy of them. The women are usually distributed to the men> from whom they do not fail of meeting with a fa- vourable reception. The boys and girls are taken into the families of such as have need of them, and are considered as slaves ; and it is nut uncommon that they are sold in the same capacity to the American traders who come among them. The Indians have no idea of moderating the ravages of war, by sparing their prisoners and en- tering into a negotiation with the band from whom they have been taken, for an exchange. All that are taken captive by both parties, are either put to death, adopted, or made slaves of. And so par- ticular is every nation in this respect, that if any of their tribe, even a warrior, should be taken prisoner, and by chance be received into the house of grace, either as an adopted person or a slave, and should afterwards make his escape, they will by no means receive him, or acknowledge him as one of their band. The condition of such as are adopted, differs not in any one instance from the children of the nation to which they now belong. They assume all the rights of those whose places they supply, and frequently make no difficulty of going in the war parties against their own countrymen. Should, however, any of those by chance make their es- ca|>e, and be afterwards retaken, they are esteemed * i '■ I ! s-^ 92 NEW TRAVELS ^ as unnatural children, and ungrateful persons^ who have deserted and made war upon their parents and benefactors> and are treated with uncommon scveritv. That part of the prisoners which are considered as slaves^ are generally distributed among the chiefs ; who frequently make presents of some of them to the American governors of the out-posts, or to the superintendants of Indian affairs. I have been informed that the Jesuits and French missionaries first occasioned the introduction of these unhappy captives into the settlements, and who, by so doing, taught the Indians that they were valuable. Their views indeed were laudable, as they ima- gined that by this method they should not only * ' prevent much barbarity and bloodshed, but find the opportunities of spreading their religion among^ them increased. To this purpose they have en- couraged the traders to purchase such slaves as they met with. The good effects of this mode of proceeding,' were not however equal to the expectations of these pious fathers. Instead of being the means of pre- venting cruelty and bloodshed, it only caused dis- sensions between the Indian nations to be carried on with a greater degree of violence, and with unremitted ardour. The prize they fought forv being no longer revenge or fame, but the acquire- ment of spirituous liquors, for which their captives were to be exchanged, and of which almost every nation is immoderately fond, they sought for their AMONG THE INDIANS * 93 enemies with unwonted alacrity, and were con- stantly on the watch to surprize and carry them off. It might still be said, that fewer of the captives are tormented and put to death, since these ex* pectations of receiving so valuable a consideration for them have been excited than there usually had been ; hut it does not appear that their accustom^ ed cruelty to the warriors they take, is in the least abated ; their natural desire of vengeance must be gratified ; they now only, become more assiduous in securing a greater number of young prisoners, whilst those who are made captive in their defence, are tormented and put to death as before. And this, even in despite of the disgraceful estima- j'^lion; for the Indians consider every conquered people as in a state of vassalage to their concfuerors. After one nation has finally subdued another, and a conditional submission is agreed on, it is cus- tomary for the chiefs of the conquered, when they sit in council with their subduers, to wear petti- coats, as an acknowledgement that they are in a state of subjection, and ought to be ranked among the women. Their partiality to the French has howL^ver taken too deep root for time itself to era- dicate it. The wars tbal are carried on between the Indian nations are in general hereditary, and continuA from age to age with a few interruptions. If a peace becomes necessary, the principal care of both parties is to avoid the appearance of making the first advances. « o-i -7f r. ^ NJLW TRAVELS When they treat with an enemy, relative to a suspension of hostihtes, the chief who is commis- sioned to undertake the negotiation, if it is not brought about by the mediation of some neigh- bouring band, abates nothing of his natural haugh- tiness; even when the aifairs of his country are in the worst situation, he makes no concessions^ but endeavours to persuade his adversaries that it is their interest to put an end to the war. --** •; ^ f^ ■'^ Accidents sometimes contribute to bring about a peace between nations that otherwise cuuld not be prevailed on to listen to terms of accommoda- tion. Sometimes the Indians grow tired of a war, which they have carried on against some neigh- bouring nation for many years without much suc- cess, and in this case they seek for mediators to begin a negotiation. These being obtained^ the treaty is thus conducted : A number of their own chiefs, joined by those who have accepted the friendly office, set out to together for the enemy's country ; such as are cho- sen for this purpose, are chiefs of the most exten- sive abilities, and of the greatest integrity. They bear before them the pipe of peace, which I need not inform my readers is of the same nature as a flag of truce among the Americans/ and is treated with the greatest respect and veneration, even by the most barbarous nations. I never heard of an instance wherein the bearers of this sacred badge of friendship were ever treated disrespectfully, or its rights violated. The Indians believe that the to a imis- s not eigb- lugh- ire in s, but It it is )y tbose ;t out to are cbo- st exten- They :b I need iture as a is treated I, even by lard of an red badge ctfully, or e tbatthe * AMONG THK INDIAVS. 95 Great Spirit never suffers an infraction of this kind to go unpunished. The pipe of peace, which is termed by them tlie calumet, for what reason I could never learn, is about four feel long. Tlie bowl of it is made of red marble, and the stem of a light wood, curiously painted with hieroglyphics in various colours, and adorned with feathers, of the most beautiful birds ; but it is not in my power to con- vey an idea of the various tints and pleasing oriia- ments of this much esteemed Indian implement. Every nation has a different method of deco- rating these pipes, and they can tell at first sight to what band it belongs. It is used as an introduce tion to all treaties, and great ceremony attends the use of it on these occasions. j i • The assistant, or aid-de-camp, of the great war- rior, when the chiefs are assembled and seated, fills it with tobacco mixed with herbs, taking care at the same time that no part of it touches the ground. When it is fdled, he takes a coal that is thoroughly kindled, from a fire which is gene- rally kept burning in the midst of the assembly, and places it on the tobacco. . ;; ^ As soon as it is sufficiently lighted, he throws off the coal. He then turns the stem of the pipe towards the heavens, after this towards the earth, and now holding it horizontally, moves himself round till he has completed a circle. By the first action he is supposed to present it to the Great Spirit, whose aid is thereby supplicated ; by the second, to avert any malicious interposition of 96 N£W TRAVELS -^ M the evil spirits; and by the third to gain the pro- tection of the spirits inhabiting the air, the earth, and the waters. Having thus secured the favour of these invisible agents, in whose power they suppose it is either to forward or obstruct the issue of their present deliberations, he presents it to the hereditary chief, who having taken two or three whiffs, blows the smoke from his mouth, first to- wards heaven, and then around him upon the ground. It is afterwards, put in the same manner into the mouths of the ambassadors or strangers, who ob- serve the same ceremony, then to the chief of the warriors, and to all the other chiefs in turn, ac- cording to their gradation. During this time the person who executes this honourable office holds the pipe slightly in his hand, as if he feared to press this sacred instrument; nor does any one presume to touch it but with his lips. "When the chiefs who are entrusted with the com- mission for making peace^ approach the town or camp tp which they are going, they begin to sing and dance the songs and dances appropriated to this occasion. By this time the adverse party are apprized of their arrival, and, at the sight of the pipe of peace, divesting themselves of their wonted enmity, invite them to the habitation of the great chief, and furnish them with every convenieucy during the negotiation. . ^i, • A council is then held ; and when the speeches and debates are ended, if no obstructions arise to put a stop to the treaty, the painted hatchet is to the ho oh- of the :n, ac- me the e holcls ared to jiy cue he com- town or I to sing sated to )arty are ht of the r wonted the great venieucy I speeches is arise to latchet is '0f. . AMONG THE INDIAXS. 97 buried in the ground, as a memorial that all ani- mosities between the contending n'^tions have ,ceased, and a peace taken place. Among the ruder bands, such as have no communication with the Americans, a war, club painted, red is buried, instead of the hatchet. A belt of wampum is also given on this occa- sion, which serves as a ratification of ihe pcice, and records to the latest posterity, by the hiero- glyphics into which the beads are formed, every stipulated article in the treaty. . * These belts are made of shells found on the coasts of New England and Virginia, which are sawed out into beads of an oblong form, about a quarter of an inch long, and round like other beads. Being strung on leathern strings, and several of them sewed neatly together with fine sinewy threads, they compose what is termed a belt of wampum. The shells are generally of two colours, some white and others violet ; but the latter are more highly esteemed than the former. They are held in as much estimation by the Indians, as gold, silver, or precious stones are by the Americans. The belts are composed of ten, twelve, or a greater number of strings, according to the im- portance of the affair in agitation, or the dignity of the person to whom it is presented. On more trifling occasions, strings of these beads are pre- sented by the chiefs to each other, and frequently worn by them about their necks as a valuable or- nament. ** ' ■ - . , - ■ — < .. b NEW TRAVELS ^ f -^ The Indians allow of polygamy, and persons of every rank indulge themselves in this point. The chiefs in particular have a seraglio, which con- sists of an uncertain nuniher, usually from six. to twelve or fourteen. Tiie lower rank are per- mitted to take as many as there is a prohability of their being able, with the children they may bear, to maintain. It is not uncommon for an Indian to marry two sisters; sometimes, if there happen to be more, tlie whole number ; and notwithstand- ing this (as it appears to civilized nations) unna- tural union, they all live in the greatest harmony. The younger wives are submissive to the elder; and those who have no children, do such menial offices for those who are fertile, as causes their situation to differ but little from a state of servi- tude. However, they perform every injunction with the greatest cheerfulness, in hopes of gain- ing thereby the affections of their husbands, that they in their turn may have the happiness of be- coming mothers, and be eiatitled to the respect attendant on that state. It is not uncommon for an Indian, although he takes to himself so many wives, to live in a state of continence with smne of them for several years. Such as are not so fortunate as to gain the favour of tlieir husband, by their submissive and prudent behaviour, and by that means to share in his em- braces, continue in their virgin slate during the whole of their lives, except they happen to be pre- sented by him to some stranger chief, whose abode among them will not admit of his entering poni part] relai parej tI are singi tnadf f*\ of Ml- jer- ,r of lear, dian Dpen and- nna- \ony. Uler ; menial their servi- iction gain- tbat of be- cspect ug hlic a state a years. I favour prudent his em- ing the ) be pre- whose entering AMONCUTHE INDIANS. 99 into a more lasting connection. In this case they submit to the injunction of their husband without murmuring, and are not displeased with the tem- porary union. But if at any time it is known that they take this liberty without first receiving his consent, they are punished in the same man- ner as if they had been guilty of adultery. This custom is more prevalent among the na- tions which lie in the interior parts, than among those that are nearer the settlements, as the man- ners of the latter are rendered more conformable in some points to those of the Americans, by the in- tercourse they hold with thehi. . The Indian nations differ but little from each other in their marriage ceremonies, and less in the manner of their divorces. The tribes that in- habit the borders of Canada, make use of the fol- lowing custom. When a young Indian has fixed his inclinations on one of the other sex, he endeavours to gain her consent, and if he succeeds, if is never known that her parents obstruct their union. When every preliminary is agreed on, and the day ap- pointed, the friends and acquaintance of both parties assemble at the house or tent of the oldest relation of the bridegroom, where, a feast is pre- pared on the occasion. The company who meet to assist at the festival are sometimes very numerous : they (jance, they sing, and enter into every other diversion usually made use of on any of their public rejoicings. When these are finished, all those who attended .t'-. .HI £^ It i 100 NEW TRAVELS ' 1 'merely ouf of ceremony depart, and the bride- groom and bride are left alone with three or four of the nearest and oldest relations of either side; those of the bridegroom being men, and those of the bride, women. i Presently tbe bride, attended by these few friends, having withdrawn herself for the purpose, appears at one of the doors of the house, and is led to the bridegroom, who stands ready to receive her. Hav- ing noW taken their station, on a mat placed in the centre of the room, they lay hold of the extremi- ties of a wand, about four feet long, by which they continue separated, whilst the old men pronounce some short harangues suitable to the occasion. The married couple then make a public declara- tion of the love and regard they entertain for each other, and still holding the rod between them, dance and sing. When they have finished this part of the ceremony, they break the rod into as many pieces as tliere are witnesses present, Who each take a piece and preserve it with great care. Tlie bride is then reconducted out of the door at which she entered, where her young companions wait to attend her to her father's house ; there the bridegroom is obliged to seek her, and the marri- age is consummated. Very often the wife remains at her father's house till she has a child, when she packs up her apparel, which is all the fortune she is generally possessed of, and accompanies her husband to his habitation. * *^ When from any dislike a separation takes place, for they are seldom known to quarrel, they gene- cerci dowt M 4- "--*T' AMONG THE INDIANS. 101 rally give their friends a few clan's notice of their intentions, and sometimes offer reasons to justify their conduct. The witnesses who were present at th& marriage, meet on the clay rc(|uested, at the house of the couple that are about to separate, and bringing with them the pieces of rod which they had received at their nuptials, throw them into the fire in the presence of all the parties. This is the whole of the ceremony required, and the separation is carried on without any inurmur- ings or ill will between the couple or their rela- tions ; and after a few months they are at liberty to marry again. >• .. . . :. When a marriage is thus dissolved, the children which have been produced from it, are equally di- vided between them ; and as children are esteemed a treasure by the Indians, if the number happens to be odd, the woman is allowed to take the better half. Though this custom seems to encourage fickle- ness and frequent sparations, yet there are many of the Indians who have but one wife, and enjoy with her a state of connubial happiness not to be exceeded in more refined sdcieties. There are also not a few instances of women preserving an invio- lable attachment to their husbands, except in the cases before mentioned, which are not considered as either a violation of their chastity or fidelity. Although I have said that the Indian nations dif- fer very little from each other in their marriage ceremonies, there are some exceptions. The Nau- dowessies have a singular method of celebrating wm^^ - .'g '-■ ■^^i' L\ 102 ^ ' NEW TRAV£LS '* their marriages, which seems to bear np resem- blance to those made use of by any other nation I passed through. When one of their young men has fixed on a young woman he approves of, he discovers his passion to her parentSi who give him an invitation to come and live with them in their tent He accordingly accepts the offer, and by so do- ing engages to reside in it for a whole year, in the character of a menial servant. During this time he. hunts, and brings all the game he kills to thte family ; by which means the father has an oppor- tunity of seeing whether he is able to provide for the support of his daughter and the children that might be the consequence of their union. This however is only doile whilst they are young men, and for their first wife, aqd not repeated like Ja- cob's servitude. * When this period is expired, the marriage is sor- lemnized after the custom of:*the country, in the following manner : three or four of the oldest male relations of the briclegroom, and as many of the bride's, accompany tl|e young couple from their respective tents, to an open part in the centre of the camp. _ The chiefs and warriors being here assembled to receive them, a party of the latter are drawn up in t\yo ranks on each side of the bride and bride- groom immediately on their arrival. Their prin- cipal chief then acquaints the whole assembly with the design of their meeting, and tells them that the couple before them| mentioning at the same time m AMONG THE INDIAN'S. 103 tliclr names, are come to avow publicly tlieir in- tentions of living together as man and wife. He then asks the two young people alternalely, whe- ther they desire that the nnion might take place. Having declared with an audible voice that they do 80, the warriors fix their arrows, and discharge them over the heads of the married pair ; this done, the chief pronounces them man and wife. « The bridegroom then turns round, and bending his body, takes his wife on his back, in which man- ner he carries her amidst the acclamations of the spectators to his tent. The ceremony is succeeded by the most plentiful feast the new married man can afford, and songs and dances, according to the usual custom, conclude the festival. Among the Indian as well as European nations, there are many that devote themselves to pleasure, and notwithstanding the accounts given by some modern writers of the frigidity of an Indjan*s con- stitution, become the zealous votaries of Venus. The young warriors that are thus disposed, seldom want opportunities for gratifying their passion ; and as the mode usually followed on these occasions is rather sina:ular, I shall describe it. u ^vhen one of these young debauchees imagines, from the behaviour of the person he has chosen for his mistress, that he shall not tiieet with any great obstruction to his suit frqm her, ^e pursues the following plan, " It has been already observed, that the Indians acknowledge no superiority, nor have they any ideas of subordination, esfcept in the necessary re- 104 NEW TRAVELS gulations of their war or hunting parties ; they consequently live nearly in a state of equality, pur- suant to the first principles of nature. The lover therefore is not apprehensive of any check or con- trol in the accomplishment of his purposes, if he can find a convenient opportunity for completing them. * . »i^, .. ... ^ ** As the Indians are also under no apprehension of robbers, or secret enemies, they leave the doors of their tents or huts unfastened during the night, as well as in the day. Two or three hours after sunset, the old people cover over their fire, that li generally burning in the midst of their apartment with ashes, and retire to their repose. " Whilst darkness thus prevails, and all is quiet, one of these sons of pleasure, wrapt up closely in his blanket, to prevent his being known, will some- times enter the apartment of his intended mistress. Having first lighted at the smothered fire a small splinter of wood, which answers the purpose of a match, he approaches the place where she reposes, and gently pulling away the covering from the Jicad, jogs her till she awakes. If she then rises up, and blows out the light* he needs no further con- firmation that his .company is not disagreeable ; but if, after he has discovered himself, she hides her head, and takes no notice of him, he might rest assured tjiat any further solicitations will prove vain, and tliat it is necessary immediately for him to retire. During l)is stay he conceals the light as much as possible in^lhe hollow of his hands, and as the tents or rooms of the Indians are usually '^ AMOyo THE INDIANS. 105 large and capacious, he escapes without detection. It is said, that the young women ^ho admit their lovers on these occasions, take great caie, by an immediate application to hc/bs, with the potent efficacy of which they are well acquainted, to pre- vent the effects of these illicit amours from becom* ing visible; for should the natural consequences ensue, they must for ever remain unmarried." The children of the Indians are always distin- guislted by the name of the mother; and if a wo- man marries several husbands, and has issue by each of them, they are called after her. The rea- son they give for this is, that as their offspring are indebted to the father for their souls, the invisible part of their essence, and to the mother for their corporeal and apparent part, it is more rational that they should be distinguished by the name of the latter, from whom they indubitably derive their being, than by that of the father, to which a doubt might sometimes arise whether they are . justly entitled. w|»^; . ^ Wl There are some ceremonies made use of by the Indians at the imposition of the name, and it is considered by them as a matter of great import- ance; but what these are, I could never learn, through the secrecy observed on the occasion. I only know that it is usually given when the chil* dren have passed the state of infancy. Nothing can exceed the tenderness shown by them to their offspring ; and a person cannot re- (sommend himself to their favour by any method '^™W T-J, i-f^. w^. ^ 106 NEW TRAVELS more certain, than by paying some attention to the younger branches of tlieir families. Some difficulty attends an explanation of the manner in which the Indians distinguish them- selves from each other. Besides the name of the animal by which every nation and triljc is deno- minated, there are others that are personal, at which the children receive from their' mother. The chiefs are also distinguished by a name that has either some reference to their abilities, or to the hieroglyphic of their families; and these are acquired after they arrive at the age of manhood. Such as have signalized themselves either in their war or hunting parties, or are possessed of some eminent qualifications, receive a name that serves to perpetuate the fame of those actions^ or to make their abilities conspicuous. » ^''' It is certain the Indians acknowledge one Su- preme Being, or Giver of Life, who presides over all things. That is, the Great Spirit; and they look up to him as the source Of good, from whom no evil can proceed. They also believe in a bad * spirit, to whom they ascribe great power, and suppose that through his means all the evils which befal mankind are inflicted. To him therefore do they pray in their distresses, begging that he would either avert their troubles, or moderate them when they are no longer avoidable. They say thai the Great Spirit, who is infinitely •good, neither wisbeanor is able to do any mischief to mankind; but on % contrary, that he showers '#!!■*'■ :-^ \ M,> '^tfi. ■$^ il AMONG THE INDIANS. 107 clown on them all the blessings they deserve^ whereas the evil spirit v continually employed in contriving how he may punish the human race ; and to do which, he is not only possessed of the will, but of the power. , They hold also that there are good spirits of a lower degree, who have their particular depart- mentisl, in which they are constantly contributing to the happiness of mortals. These they suppose to preside over all the extraordinary productions of nature, such as those lakes, rivers, or moun- tains that are of an uncommon magnitude ; and likewise the beasts, birds, fishes, and even vegeta- bles, or stones that exceed the rest of their species in size or singularity. To all of these they pay some kind of adoration. But at the same time I fancy that the ideas they annex to the word spirit, arc very different from the conceptions of more enlightened nations. They appear to fashion to themselves corporeal rt-- presentations of their gods, and believe them to be of a human form^ though of a nature more ex- cellent than man, - *•' ^* % Of the same kind are their sentiments relative to a futurity. They doubt not but they shall ex- ist in some future state; they however fancy that their eniployments there will be similar to those they are engaged in here, without the labour and difficulties annexed to them in this period of their e^^istence. '^^^' "*% ' • They consequently expwit to be translated to a fjelia^htful country, where they shall always have i:^^- % %. k 108 NEW TRAVELS a clear unclouded sky, and enjoy a perpetual spring; where the forests will abound with game, and the lakes with fish, which might be taken without a painful exertion of skill, or laborious pursuit ; in short, that they shall live for ever in regions of plenty, and enjoy every gratification they delight in here, in a greater degree. •« To intellectual pleasures they are strangers; nor are these included in their scheme of happiness. But they expect that even these animal pleasures will be proportioned and distributed according to their merit; the skilful hunter, the bold and suc- cessful warrior will be entitled to a greater share than those who, through indolence or want of skill, cannot boast of any superiority over the common herd. The priests of the Indians are at the same time their physicians, and their conjurers; whilst they heal their wounds, or cure their diseases, they in- . terpret their dreams, give them protective charms, and satisfy that desire which is so prevalent among them, of searching into futurity. How well they execute the latter part of their professional engagements, and the methods they make use of on some of these occasions, I have already shewn in the exertions of the priest of the Killistinocs, who was fortunate enough to succeed in his extraordinary attempt near Lake Superior. They frequently are successful hkewise, in admi- nistering the salubrious herbs they have acquired a knowledge of; but that the ceremonies they make use of during the administration of them, conlri- ^ AMONG THE INDIANS. 109 butes to their success, I shall not take upon me to assert. ' ' v^ '^' When any of the people are ill, the person who is invested with this triple character of doctor, priest, and magician, sits by the patient day and night, rattling in his ears a goad shell, filled with dry beans, called a chichicoue, and making a dis- affreeable noise that cannot well be described. This uncouth harmony one would imagine would disturb the sick person and prevent the good effects of the doctor's prescription ; but on the contrary they believe that the method made use of, contributes to his recovery, by diverting from his malignant purposes the evil spirit who has inflicted the disorder; or at least that it will take oiF his attention, so that he shall not increase the malady. This they are credulous enough to imagine he is constantly on the watch to do, and would carry his inveteracy to a fatal length if they did not thus charm him. I could not discover that they make use of any other religious ceremonies than those I have des- cribed; indeed on the appearance of the new moon they dance and sing; but it is not evident that they pay that planet any adoration ; they only seem to rejoice at the return of a luminary that makes the night cheerful, and which serves to light them on their way when they travel during the ab- sence of the sun. ,*„.,..«.. Notwithstanding Mr. Adair has asserted that the nations among whom he resided, observe with very little variation all the rites ap,pointed by the ■I- III ^1 -»j^. no NEW TRAVELS Mosaic law, I own I could never discover among those tribes that lie but a few degrees to the north- west, the least traces of the Jewish religion, ex- cept it be admitted that one particular female custom and their divisions into tribe8> carry with them proof sufficient to establish this assertion. The Jesuits and French missonaries have also pretended, that the Indians had, when they first travelled into America, some notions, though these were dark and confused, of the christian institu- tion; that they have been greatly agitated at the sight of a cross, and given proofs by the impres • sions made on them, that they were not entirely unacquainted with the sacred mysteries of Chris- tianity. I need not say that these are too glaring absurdities to be credited, and could only receive their existence from the zeal of those fathers, who endeavoured at once to give the public a better opinion of the success of their missions, and to add support to the cause they >vcre ei^gaged in. The Indians appear to be in their religious prin- ciples, rude and uninstructed. The doctrines they bold are few and simple, and such as have been generally impressed on the human mind, by some means or other, in the most ignorant ages. They however have not deviated, as many other uncivi- lized nations, and too many civilized ones, have done, into idolatrous modes of worship: they venerate indeed and make offerings to the won- derful parts of the creation, as I have before ob- served; but whether those rights are performed on account of-the impression such extraordinary religi( persti error with In Maint the wi [I in. IS pii ti- es they re been >y some They uncivi- es, have they le w on- fore ob- irformcd ordinary ) AMONG TPIE INDIANS. Ill appearances make on them, or whether they con- sider them as the pecuUar charge, or tlie usual places of residence of the invisible spirits they ac- knowledge, I cannot positively determine. The human mind in its uncultivated state is apt to ascribe the extraordinary occurrences of nature, such as earthquakes, thunder, or hurricanes, to the interposition of unseen beings ; the troubles and disasters also that are annexed to a savage life, the apprehensions attendant on a precarious subsistence, and those numberless inconveniences which man in his improved state has found means to remedy, are supposed to proceed from the in- terposition of evil spirits; the savage, consequently, lives in continual apprehensions of their unkind attacks, and to avert them has recourse to charms, to the fantastic ceremonies of his priest, or the powerful influence of his INIanitous. Fear has of course a greater share in his devotions than grati- tude, and he pays more attention to deprecating the wrath of the evil, than to securing the favour of the good beings. The Indians, however, entertain these absurdi- ties in common with those of every part of the globe who have not been illuminated with that religion, which only can disperse the clouds of su- perstition and ignorance, and they are as free from error as people can be, who have not been favoured with Its instructive tloctrines. In Penobscot, a settlement in the province of Maine, in the north east parts of New England, the wife of a soldier was taken in labour, and not- « ! 112 ' NEW TRAVELS withstanding every necessary assistance was given her, could not be delivered. In this situation she remained for two or three days, the persons around her expecting that the next pang would put an end to her existence. An Indian woman, who accidentally passed by, heard the groans of the unhappy sufferer, and in- quired from whence they proceeded. Being made acquainted with the desperate circumstance at- tending the case, she told the informant, that if she might be permitted to see the person, she did not doubt but that she should be of great service to her. The surgeon that had attended, and the mid- wife who was then present, having given up every hope of preserving their patient, the Indian woman was allowed to make use of any methods she thought proper. She accordingly took a handker- chief, and bound it tight over the nose and mouth of the woman: this immediately brought on a suffocation; and from the struggles that conse- quently ensued, she was in a few seconds deliver- ed. The moment this was achieved, and time enough to prevent any fatal effect, the handker- chief was taken off. The long suffering patient thus happily relieved from her pains, soon after perfectly recovered, to the astonishment of all those .who had been witnesses to her drspcrate situation. ' * "' ir ' "^ The reason given by the Indian for this hazard- ous method of proceeding, was, that desperate disorders require desperate remedies; that as she obs( entJ^ she I whic »: as AMOXO THE INDTANS. Il3 observed the exertions of nature were not suffici- ently forcible to effect the desired consequence, she thought it necessary to augment their force, which could only be done by some mode that was violent in the extreme. An Indian meets death when it approaches liim in his hut, with the same resolution as he evinces when called to face him in the field. His indiffer- €nce under this important trial, which is the source of so many apprehensions to almost every other nation, is truly admirable. When his fate is pro- nounced by the physician, and it remains no longer uncertain, he harangues those about him with the greatest composure. - If he is a chief and has a family, he makes a kind of funeral oration, which he concludes by giving to his children such advice for the regula* tion of their conduct as he thinks necessary. He then takes leave of his friends, and issues out or« ders for the preparation of a feast, which is de- signed to regale those of his tribe that can come to pronounce his eulogium. ' • vrii The character of the Indians, like that of other uncivilized nations, is composed of a mixture of ferocity and gentleness. They are at once guided by passions and appetites, which they hold in com- mon with the fiercest beasts that inhabit their woods, and are possessed of virtues which do ho- nour to human nature. In the following estimate I shall endeavour to forget on the one hand the prejudices of Ameri- cans, who usually annex to the word Indian, 114 NEW TRAVELS ideas that are disgraceful to human nature, and lYho view them in no other light than as savages and cannibals, whilst with equal care I avoid my partiality towards them, as some must naturally arise, from the favourable reception I met with dur- ing my stay among them. V. ., ^^l„i i.f\ That the Indians are of a cruel, revengeful, in- exorable disposition, that they will watch whole days unmindful of the calls of nature, and make their way through pathless, and almost unbounded woods, subsisting pnly on the scanty produce of them, to pursue and revenge themselves of an ene- my; that they hear unmoved the piercjng cries of such as unhappily fall into their hands, and re- ceive a diabolical pleasure from the tortures they inflict on their prisoners, I readily grant; but let us look on the reverse of this terrifying picture, and we shall find them temperate both in their diet and potations, ( it must be remembered that I speak of those tribes who have little communica- tion with Americans) that they withstand, with unexampled patience, the attacks of hunger, or the inclemency of the seasons, and esteem the gratification of their appetites but as a secondary consideration. A We shall likewise see them social and humane to those whom they consider as their friends, and even to their adopted enemies ; and ready to share with them the last morsel, or to risk their lives in their defence. In contradiction to the report of many other travellers, all of which have been tinctured with ii-^ #T = and iges my rally dur- ger, or tm the ondary lumane ds, and ;o share lives in ly other ed with AMONG THE INDIANS. 115 prejudice^ I can assert, that notwithstanding the apparent indifference with which an Indian meets his wife and children after a long absence, an in- difference proceeding rather from custom than in- sensibility, he is not unmindful of the claims either of connubial or parental tenderness. - t Accustomed from their youth to innumerable hardships, they soon become superior to a sense of danger, or the dread of death ; and their fortitude, implanted by nature, and nurtured by example, by precept and accident, never experiences a mo- ment's allay. Though slothful and inactive whilst their stores of provisions remain unexhausted, and their foes are at a distance, they are indefatigable and perse- vering in pursuit of their game, or in circumvent- ing their enemies, f^ ;,^v r ' « , j> v'i'^*'^ If they are artful and designing, and ready to take every advantage, if they are cool and delibe- rate ir their councils, and cautious in the extreme, either of discovering their sentiments, or of reveal- ing a sfecret, they might at the same time boast of possessing qualifications of a more animated na- ture, of the sagacity of a hound, the penetrating sight of a lynx, the cunning of a fox, the agility of a bounding roe, and the unconquerable fierce- ness of the tio-er. &' .-,** A- Ml In their public characters, as forming part of a community, they possess an ^attachment for that band to which they belong, unknown to the inha- bitants of any other country. They combine, as if they were actuated only by one soul, against th? 1 ? 116 NEW TRAVELS enemies of their nation, and banish from their minds every consideration opposed to this. They consult without unnecessary opposition, or without giving way to the excitements of envy or ambition, on the measures necessary to be pur- sued for the destruction of those who have drawn on themselves their displeasure. No selfish views ever influence their advice, or obstruct their con- sultations. Nor is it in the power of bribes or threats to diminish the love they bear their country. The honour of their tribe, and the welfare of their nation, are the first and most predominant emotions of their hearts ; and from hence proceed in a great measure all their virtues and their vices. Actuated by these, they brave every danger, en- dure the most refined torments, and expire tri- umphing in their fortitude, not as a personal qua- lity, but as a national characteristic. From hence also flows that insatiable revenge to>yards those with whom they are at war, and all the consequent horrors that disgrace iheir name. Their uncultivated mind being incapable of judg- ing of the propriety of an action, in opposition to their passions, which are totally insensible of the controul of reason or humanity, they know not how to keep their fury within any bounds, and consequently that courage and resolution, which would otherwise do eir features would be acknowledged by the more civilized people of Eu- rope. Their complexion has less of that dark tinge which is common to those savages who have less cleanly habits. These people are, in general, subject to few dis- orders. The lues venerea, however, is a common complaint, but cured by the application of sim- ples, with whose virtues they appear to be well ac* quainted. They are also subject to fluxes, and pains in the breast, which some have attributed to the very cold and keen air which they inhale ; but I should imagine that these complaints must frequently proceed from their immoderate indul- gence in fat meat at their feasts, ])articularly when they have been preceded by long fasting. Thev are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in their dealings, not only among themselves, but with strangers.* They are also generous and •fis; , * They have been called thieves, but when that vice can wUb \ ' I as ves, and with AMONG THE INDIANS. 121 hospitable, and good natured in the extreme, ex- cept when their nature is perverted by the inflam- matory influence of spirituous liquors. To their children they are indulgent to a fault Tlie father, though he assumes no command over them, is ever anxious to instruct them in all the prepa- ratory quahfications for war and hunting; while the mother is equally attentive to her daughters in teaching them every thing that is considered as necessary to their character and situation. It does not appear that the husband makes any dis- tinction between the children of his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers. Illegitimacy is only attached to those who are born before their mothers have cohabited with any man by the title of husband. It does not appear that chastity is considered by them as a virtue; or that fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness of a wedded life. Though it sometimes happens that the infidelity of the wife is punished by the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps life; such severity proceeds from its having been practised without his permission; for a temporary inter- change of wives is not uncommon; and the offer of their persons is considered as a necessary part of the hospitality due to strangers. When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to marry her sister, if she has one; or he js-if, justice be attributed to them, it may be traced to their connec- tion with the civilised people, who come into their country to traffick. * 122 '^ NEW travi:ls may, if he pleases^ have them both at the same time. It will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeatedly imputed to the use of spirituous liquors, that 1 more particularly considered these people as having been, morally speaking, great sufferers from their communication with the sub- jects of civilized nations. At the same time they were not, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cultivated and reflecting man. I shall only observe, that incest and bestiality are among them. When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father and mother of his wife, who treat him, nevertheless, as a perfect stranger, until after the birth of his first child; he then attaches himself more to them than his own parents; and his wife no longer gives him any other denomination than that of the father of her child. The profession of the men is -war and hunting, and the more active scenes of their duty are the field of battle, and the chase in the woods. They also spear fish, but the management of the nets is left to the women. The females of this nation are in the same subordinate state with those of all other savage tribes; but the severity of their labour is much diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen, thev make their journies, which are never of any great reng at th tic ( clotl] erect culin; terna of th toil a entert influei knowi them have s the us( U'hich of the which dibly withoul perpeti The ceremc hy SL fe| h'ments and isi branch) it, andl this ce if the fj near rel part AMONG THE INDIANS. 12S length, with sledges drawn by dogs. They are, at the same time, subject to every kind of domes- tic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes, weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, fetch water, and perform every culinarv service : so that when the duties of ma- ternal care are added, it will appear that the life of these women is an uninterrupti ' succession of toil and pain. This, indeed, is the sense they entertain of their own situation; and, under the influence of that sentiment^ they are sometimes known to destroy their female children, to save them from the miseries which they themselves have suffered. They also have a ready way, by the use of certain simples, of procuring abortion, which they sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save themselves the trouble which children occasion ; and, as I have been cre- dibly informed, this unnatural act is repeated without any injury to the health of the women wha perpetrate it. ' The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ceremonials, with smoking, and are Concluded by a feast. The body is dressed in the best habi- liments possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is then deposited in a gravT, lined with branches; some domestic utensils are placed on it, and a kind of canopy erected over it. During this ceremony great lamentations are made, and if the departed person is very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the fleshy part of their thighs and arms with arrows. « 124 NEW TRAVELS knives, &c. and blacken their faces with charcoaf. If they have distinguished themselves in war, they are sometimes on a kind of scaffolding; and I have been informed that women, as in the east, have been known to sacrifice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of the |)roperty belonging to the departed person is destroyed, and the relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any rags that will cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, which is, or at least used to be, repeated annually, is accom- panied with eulogiums on the deceased, and with- out any acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved or painted, the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different animals of the country. Many and various are the motives which induce a savage to engage in war. To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his relations, or some of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe feel themselves called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief pub- lishes his intention to snioke in the sacred stem at a certain period, to which solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as preparatory ceremo- nials. When the people are thus assembled, and the meeting sanctified by the custom of smok- ing, the chief enlarges on the causes which have called them together* and the necessity of the measures proposed on the occasion. He then invites those who are willing to follow him, to smoke out of the sacred stem, which is long dogs very also ever it in an lake, order may bl also a| these strand want he lias #" AMONG THE INDIANS. 125 considered as the token of enrolment; and if it should be the general opinion, that assistance is necessary, others are invited, witli great forma- lity, to join them. Every individual who attends these meetings brings something with him as a token of his warlike intentions, or as an object of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from poles near the place of council. They have frequent feasts, and particular cir- cumstances never fail to produce them; such as a tedious illness, long fasting, &c. On these occa- sions it is usual for the person who means to give the entertainment, to announce his design, on a certain day, of opening the medicine bag, and smoking out of his sacred stem. This declaration is considered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. There are also stated periods, such as the spring and autumn, when they engage in very long and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are offered as sacrifices, and those which are very fat, and milk white, are preferred. Ihey also make large offerings of their property, what- ever it may be. The scene of these ceremonies is in an open inclosure on the bank of a river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in order that such as are passing along, or travelling, may be induced to make their offerings. There is also a particular custom among them, that, on these occasions, if any of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing by, and be in real want of any thing that is displayed as an offering, he has a right to take, it, so that he replaces it < ' r- 126 NEW TRAVELS with some article he can spare, though it be of far inferior value; hut to take or touch any thing wantonly, is considered as a sacrilegious act, and highly insulting to the great Master of Life, to use their own expression, who is the sacred object of their devotion. -^ *■ ^ .\5'*»«..p The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who performs it, which is prepared for that purpose by removing every thing out of it, and spreading green branches in every part. The fire and ashes are also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh earth, and another fire is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it; and he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a well-dressed moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and exposes its contents, consisting of various arti- cles. The principal of them is a kind of house- hold god, which is a small carved image about eight inches long. Its first covering is of down^ over which a piece of birch bark is closely tied, and the whole is enveloped in several folds of red and blue cloth. This little figure is an object of the most pious regard. The next article is his war-cap, which is decorated with the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and eagle's claws^ &c. There is also suspended from it a quill or feather for every enemy whom the owner of it has slain in battle. The remaining contents of the bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and simples, which are in great estimation far their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These arti? cles two niasi estce is til VV00( pipe, remn arranj somei specta fiolemi or assi sents standii He th few w same ( quarte; the wl middle hands, head, 1 with tl it in v he thei) their b an ack for thel Life, pany utterinj :>M :"»'>' AMONG THE INDIANS. 127 cles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the person he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him; the pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the fire in the pipe, and a double pointed pin, to empty it of the remnint of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being made, the men assemble, and sometimes the women are allowed to be humble spectators, while the most religious awe and solemnity pervade the whole. The Michiniwais, or assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, and pre- sents it to the officiating person, who receives it standing, and holds it between both his hands. He then turns himself to the east, and draws a few whiffs, which he blows to that point. The same ceremony he observes to the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during the whole of it. He holds the stem about the middle between the three first fingers of both hands, and raising them upon a line with his fore- head, he swings it three times round from the east, with the sun, when, after pointing and balancing it in various directions, hereposcait on the forks: he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment of past mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the Master of Life. He then sits down, and the whole com- pany declare their approbaticn and thanks by uttering the word hoLwithMX emphatiiJ pfolong- / "'1 . V « 128 NEW TRAVELS ation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes up the pipe and holds it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, after smoking three whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then goes round with it, taking his course from east to west, to every person present, who individually says something to him on the occasion; and thus the pipe is generally smoked out: when after turning it three or four times round his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its original situation. He then thanks the company for their attendance, and wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life. . v« These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance, with more or less ceremony, but always with equal solemnity. The utility of them will appear from the following relation. If a chief is anxious to know the disposition of his people towards him, or if he wishes to settle any difference between them, he announces his intention of opening his medicine-bag and smok- ing in his sacred stem; and no man who enter- tains a grudge against any of the party thus assembled, can smoke with the sacred stem; as that ceremony "dissipates all differences, and is never violated. No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a person may attend and be excused from as- sisting at the ceremonies, by acknowleging that be has not undergone the necessary purification. The having cohabited with his wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours preceding the cerei disqi If a the c faithf going pledg will I ment* The sends i invitat At the hringir their se them si The pij divisioi compat and ac ine,' or first ea distinwi cannot vour to I it for tij with ai to renial meat or eat, byj • It is ation of ti AMONG THE INDIANS. liQ ceremony, renders liim iinckan, and consequently disqualific's him fioui perforniinf^* any part of it. If a contract is entered into and solemnized by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of being faithfully fulfilled. If a person, previous to his going on a journey, leaves the sacred stem as -i pledge of his return, no consideration whatever will prevent him from executing his engage- ment*. ^ . .. "■ The chief, when he proposes to make a feast, sends quills, or small pieces of wooii, as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes to partake of it. At the appointed time the guests arrive, each bringing a dish or platter, and a knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief, who receives them sitting, according to their respective ages. The pipe is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of every thing that is provided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief sings, and accompanies his song with the tambour- ine," or shishiquoi, or rattle. The guest who has first eaten his portion is considered as the most distinguished person. If there should be any who cannot finish the whole of their mess, they endea-- vour to prevail on some of their friends to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their assistance with ammunition and tobacco. It is pix>pcr also to remark, that at these feasts a small quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before they begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth. • It is however to be lamented, that of late there is a relax- ation of the duties originally attached to the$e festival!. ..^^. '••• £ *'. ;*, ^•S 150 NEW TRAVELS These feasts differ according to circumstances ; sometimes each man^s allowance is no more than he can dispatch in a couple of hours : at other times the quantity is sufficient to supply each of them with food for a week, though it must be devoured in a day. On these occasions it is very difHcuIl to procure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten whatever time it may require. At some of these entertainments there is a more rational arrangement, when the guests ^re allowed to carry home with them the superfluous part of their portions. Great care is always taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be considered a profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them. The public feasts are conducted in the same manner, but with some additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the necessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception for the numerous company. Here the guests discourse upon public topics, re- peat tlie heroic deeds of their fore-fathers, and ex- cite the rising generation to follow their example. The entertainments, on these occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practicable to dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly ; though the women and children are excluded. Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and annually, in honour of the dead ; but they have , been, tor some time, growing into disuse, and I nevei ofth Th places aroun music Wit compu numbe they d moons. not alt< odd da The tlescript Icivs ; — May June July Augusj Septei Octobc Novel Decei Januar ^ebruaj March I April :« nony. [e the jroper pany. cs, re- el ex- ample, sist of o dress large len are lis, and ev have e, and I AMONG THE INDIANS. 131 never had an opportunity of being present at any of them. The women, who are forbidden to enter the places sacred to these festivals, dance and sing around them, and sometimes beat time to the music within ; which forms an agreeable contrast. With respect to their divisions of time, they compute the length of their journies by the number of nights passed in performing them ; and they divide the year by their own succession of moons. In this calculation, however, they are not altogether correct, as they cannot account for odd days. The names which they give to the moons, are descriptive of die several seasons, and are as fol- ic .vs : — f May June July August September October November December . January February March April , Frog Moon. > The Moon in which birds V begin to lay their eggs. . fThe Moon when birds L cast their feathers. C TheMoon when the young C birds begin to fly C The moon when the moose (^ deer cast their horns. The Rutting Moon. Hoar-frost Moon. Whirlwind Moon. Extreme cold Moon. r Big-moon j some say Old ^ Moon. Eagle Mooiwvi ' -^, Goose Moo«*' ^'■w ' #'■' 132 HKW TIIAVELS These people know the medicinal virtues of ma* ny herbs and simples, and apply the roots of plants and the bark of trees v/ith success. Dut the con- ju'crs, who monopolize the medical science, find it necessary to blend mystery with their art, and do not communicate their knowledge. Their ma- teria mcdica they administer in the form of pur- ges and clysters; hut the remedies and surgical operations arc supposed to derive much of their effect from magic and incantation. When a blis- '. ter rises in the foot from the frost, the chafing of /the shoe, &c., they immediately open it, aad apply the he ted blade of a knife to the part, which, painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp flint serves them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification in bruises and > sweUings. For sprains, the dung of an animal just ' killed is considered as the best ren>edy. They arc * very fond of European medicines, though they are ignorant of their application: and those arti- cles form an inconsiderable part of the European traffic with them. Among their various superstitions, they believe tliat the vapour which is seen to hover over moist and swampy places, is the spirit of some person lately dead. They also fancy another spirit, which appears in the shape of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose property has not been interred with them. He is represented as bearing a gun in his hand, and it is beheved that he does not return to his rest, until the pro- perty that has been withheld from the grave has been sacrificed to it. A MONO THE INDIANS. 133 ntB [)n- Sml and nia- pur- vical theiv blis- igof aad hJcU, jious. siting s and il just ey arc k they je avti- ropean believe r moist person , which ees near erty has resented beheved the pvo- ■rave has Examples of their Language. Knhteneaiix. . Clood spirit • • Yiv]^\ Manitou Evil spirit . Matchi maniiou Man • Ethini Woman « Esquois Male • 9 Naphew ' '* Female Non-gensc Infant • • A' was ish • Head Us ti quoin ' Forehead • Es caa^ick ' - . '"i Hair , r « Wcsty-ky , ,' ^' ■/ Eyes • \ j Es kis och Nose 1 % Oskiwin Nostrils • I Oo tith ee gow moiv * • Mouth » 1 O toune » '"• My teeth • Wip pit tah ' ' T . * Tongue » « Otaithana Beard • 1 Michitoune Brain • With i tip ■ -' ' Ears • 1 . V, O tow ee gie /' Neck • O qui ow ; ? ;«" Throat • Okoottasgy •. Arms • O nisk ; Fingers • Che chee r. , ' ' Nails * Wos kos sia , ■ . .' Side ft ' t O's spin gy ,>C;..' My back • No pis quaa -' My belly • , Nattay •/ Thighg • , O povam * My knees • ♦ No che quoin nah v. Legs • Nosk l^eart » ♦ Othea J^ 134 « -/ NEW TRAVELS -'■ Knisteneaux. • My father . Noo ta wie My mother , Nigah wei My boy (son) Negousis My girl (daughter) . Netanis My brother, elder ,. Ni stess , '■ My sister, elder Ne miss My grandfather Ne moo shum My grandmother N* kum ! My uncle N' o'ka miss My nephew Ne too sim ' , My niece Ne too sim esquois My mother in law . Nisigouse My brother in law , Nistah -' , My companion Ne wechi wagan My husband Ni nap pem Blood Mith coo Old man . Shi nap I am angry Ne kis si wash en I fear Ne goos tow ^ ' Joy Ne hea the torn ' ,' Hearing Pethom ' ' Track Mis conna Chief, great ruler Haukimah Thief Kismouthesk Excrement Meyee « ^ Buffalo Moustouche Ferret Sigous Polecat Shicak Elk Moustouche . -- Rein deer Attick -.■' Fallow deer Attick Beaver Amisk Woolverine • Qui qua katch Squirrel Ennequachas ; . Mink , Sa quasue . - -^^^fs ^ ^ ikMONO THE INDIANS. M ■%■>*' Knisteneaux, Otter ' Nekick Wolf Mayegan Hare Wapouce . ' Marten Wappistan Moose Mouswah Bear . . Masqua Fisher Wijask Lynx Picheu Porcupine Cau quah Fox • • Makisew Musk Rat Wajask Mouse Abieushlss Crow BufFalo Noshi Moustouche Meat-flesh Wias Dog Atim -. Eagle ■• . Makusue Duck SySip Crow, Corbcau Ca Cawkeu Swan Wapiseu Turkey Mes sei thew Pheasants . Okes kew Bird Pethesew Outard Niscag White Goose WeyWois Grey Qoose . Pestasish Partridge . Pithew Water Hen . Chiquibish Dove Omi Mee Eggs Wa Wah Pike or Jack , Kenonge Carp . Na may bin Sturgeon . Na May * White Fish . Aticaming » Pikrel : Oc-chaw Fish (in general)' Kenonge m.' 1S5 ■f< ..* 'f ,; 156 - 3 NEW TRAVELS . ■ -*:■ . •» .' ', . -i Knuteneaux* Spawn , Waquon "^ Fins " . , . , Chi chi kan > Trout Na-gouse ■ . • Craw Fish A shag gee ,/.-■'. ^ . ; , Frog Athivk ^ T ;, . - ' Wasp ' : , . Ah moo ; / ., Turtle * . Mikjnack \ ... ' '' * ' .' ,"' Snake . . r • Cinibic »i - *^ -; Awl , ; , Oscajick » ; - ^ Needle Saboipigan '; v; 4 Fire Steel . Appet ^/J^'V; C Fire Wood Mich-tah r . , ^ Cradle , Teckinigan ,; , ■..).*,• - Dagger Ta comagau . • ' 1 Arrow Augu?k or Atouche 1 " ' ' Fish Hook . 5 Quosquipicjiican ■ ^ ; Ax , Shegaygan -^ < f ' * 1^ . . Ear-bob Chi-kisebispun' ■-, - j";}", Comb . ^ ^;, Sicahoun f -r* ,.^ ' ,." . Net . ^ ,.. [^ Athahe ^ \>,i./r» ,, "^•■,- ^. Tree "'■" , ,*': Mistick . *;i5 . , ' Wood ,' Mistick . ;/ : f--' Paddle . " Aboi Canoe , , Chiman ' ,^ Z*^ • • Birch Rind Wasquoi Bark ,~ Wasquoi -; ,. ^ . . Touch Wood Pousagan ' ' ' Leaf Ncpeshah - . . . Grass Masquosi '" Raspberries Misqui-meinap Strawberries ; O'-tai-e minac, Ashes ; i > Pecouch Fire ( Scou lay Grapes « . Shomenac ■ f 0^ . Palqihihow 1 Mud Currant Boad Winter fsland Lake 8un Moon Day Ni^ht Snow Hain Prift Hail Jce {"rest Mist Water World Mountain Sea Morning Mid-day Portage Spring River Rapid Rivulet Sand Earth Star Thunder Wind Calm AMONG THE INDIANS. Kiiifiteneaux. , . Asus ki 137 ■I «^' Kisijiwin Mescanah Plpoun Ministick Sagayian Pisim Tibisca pisim (the night Sun) Kigigah ' Tibisca ^ ^ Cosnah ) > Kimiwofn Pewan Sheg eagan * ? Mesquaming • . ', - Aquatin Picasyow Nepec Messe asky (all the earth) Wachee Kitchi kitchi ga ming Kequishepe Abetah quisheik Unigam • ^ Menouscaming Sipee Bawastick Sepeesis ^ J^ * Thocaw ik , v Askee \ v Attack Pithuseu Thoutln Athawostin t% .v ,y. 4' 1S8 <^ Heat Evening North South East West To-morrow Bone Broth Feast Grease or oil Marrow fat Sinew Lodge Bed Within Door Dish Fort Sledge Cincture Cap Slocks Shirt /Coat Blanket Cloth Thread Garters Mittens Shoe I Smoking bag Portage- sling Straight on Medicine . 'k NEW TRAVELS Knistenecmx, Ouishipoi Ta kashike Kywoitin Sawena woon Coshawcastak Pasquisimou Wabank Oskann Michim waboi Ma qua see Pimis Oscan pimis Asstis Wig-waum Ne pa win ' tji Pendog ke Squandara Othagan Wasgaigan Tabanask Poquoatehoun Astotin Ashican " ^ Papacheweyan Papise- co-wagan Wape weyang Maneto weguin Assabab « Chi ki-bisoon Astissack Maskisin Kusquepetagan Apisan Goi ask Mes ki kee it 1'' ■c : :>^ ,«- ^ ■.','* AMONG THE INDIANS. \l ■ ■ , ^'^ ■ ^ - Knisteiieaux. Red • • Mes coh Blue « m Kasqutch (same as black) White • • Wabisca Yellow • • Saw waw r: >. Green « • Chibatiquare Ugly- • • Mache nagouseu : Handsome • • Catawassiseu ■ -^ ' Beautiful • • Kissi Sawenogan . ' Deaf ■ « • Nima petom Good-natured Mithiwashin Pregnant • • Paawie - s"- ' Fat • ' « ... Outhii^eu ' Big « • Mushikitee Small or little Abisasheu - Short 4 • < Chemasish Skin • • Wian Long 9 * Kinwain Strong ■ , Mascawa Coward • , . Sagatahaw Weak • 4 Nithamissew ^- ^• Lean « * Mahta waw v Brave m Nima G us taw ' - Young man . , Osquineguish • Cold , , Kissin ' Hot Cichatai ' Spring Minouscaming Summer Nibin Fall Tagowagonk One Peyac Two • Nisheu , • ' Theee Nishteu . , •'• Four . Neway ' Five Ni-annan Six Negoutawoesie : Seven . • • ^■^. Nish wissic ISO 1^0 ) KEW TRAVglS * • V KnistenrauXm Eight Jannanew * ' Nine •^ Shack ' "' '■■ Ten Mitatat Eleven • Peyac osap ' * Twelve • Nisheu osap *^ , Thirteen Nichtou osapk Fourteen . Neway osap Fifteen • Niannan osap ■ Sixteen Nigoutawoesic osap^ !' Seventeen Nish woesic osap ^^ > Eighteen « Janenew osap Nineteen * Shack osap ' . , . Twenty • Nisheu mitenah Twenty-one « ■ Nisheu mitenah payae osap Twenty-two, Sec. Nisheu mintenah nisheu ^ osap ... < Thirty s Nishtou mitenah Forty Neway mitenah Fifty Niannan mitenah Sixty Negoutawoisic mitenah Seventy \ Nishwoisic mitenah Eighty Jannaeu mitenah Ninety Shack mitenah Z Hundred , Mitaua mitinah Two Hundred Neshew mitena a mitenab One Thousand Mitenah mitena mitenab First i Nican Last , Squayatch > More , . Minah Better Athiwack mithawashin Best Athiwack mithawashin I or me . Nitha You or thou Kitha They or them Withjiwaw. 1 To To To To To To AMOKG THE INDIANS. ..■fT-, Knisteneaux, We . Nitliawaw My or mine . Nitayan Your's Kitayan Whom . ♦ Awoine His or her's . Otayan ' < All • . . Ksi-'hau Some or some few . Pey -^yac The same Tabescoutch All the world Missi acki wanque All the men K-akithaw Ethinyock More Mina Sometimes * I as-cow-puco Arrive , Ta couch in Beat Otamaha To.bum Mistascasoo . To sing Nagamoun To cut Kisquishan To hide . , Catann To cover . . Acquahoun To believe . Taboitam To sleep Nepan To dispute Ne ko mi towock To dance Neraaytow To give Mith '^. To do Ogiiann ^ To eat , Wis«inee To die • Ncpew To forget . Winnekiski&ew To speiik Athimetakouse '"■ \ To cry (tears) Mantow To laugh , Papew ' v ■ To set down . Nematappe To walk : PImoutais To fall . Packisin To work . ^ Ah tus kevv 141 a 142 I ' » ' NtW TRAVEt!^ Knisteneaux, To kill Nipahaw To sell . Attawom To live Pimatise To see Wabam To come Astamotch Enough • Egothigog Cry (tears) ;, r Manteau It hails Shisigian There is JAya wa There is some It rains Quimiwoin After to-raorrow Awis wabank To-day Anoutch There-away Netoi Much Michelt Presently , Pischisqua Make, heart Quithipeh This morning Shebas This night Tibiscag Above Espiming Below Tabassish Truly Taboiy Already Sashay Yet, more . Minah Yesterday Tacoushick Far . Wathow Near . . ( Qulshivvoac Never ; • Nima wecatch No . . . Nima Yes Ah By and by , « Pa-nlma Always Ka-ki-kee Make haste Quethepeh Its long since Mewaisha. .* i , •■ '* ^ The countr ^5 nor lands c which i It is their ni they ar tent of gree, be which i part of 1 Then creation tliat, at ocean, i mighty were lio* was tliu touching on the bird thel from thi produce] sions th( well as traditiod havinir was to untouch! AMONG THE INDIANS. 143 Some /Account of the Cliepezvyan Indians. They are a numerous people, who consider the country between the parallels of latitude 60 and 65 north, and longitude 100 to IK) west, as their lands or home. They speak a copious language, which is very difficult to be attained It is not possible to form any just estimate of their numbers, but it is apparent, neverihcless, that they are by no means proportionate to the vast ex- tent of their territories, which may, in some de- gree, be attributed to the ravages of the small- pox, which are more or less evident throughout this part of the continent. The notion which these people entertain of the creation, is of a very singular nature. They believe tliat, at the first, the globe was one vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except a mighty bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the clapping of whose wings was thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained on the surface of the waters. This omnipotent bhd then called forth all the variety of animals from the earth, except theChepewyans, who were produced from a dog; and this circumstance occa- sions their aversion to the flesh of that animal, as well as the people wiio eat it. This extraordinary tradition proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finished his work, made an arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and to remain untouched;^ but that the Chepewyans were so de- 144 NEW TRAVELS void of understanding, as to carry it away, and tlie sacrilege so enraged the great bird, that he has never since appeared. •• They have also a tradition among them, that they originally came from another country, inha- bited by very wicked people, and had traversed a great lake which was narrow, shallow, and full of Islands, where they had suffered great misery, it being always winter, with ice and deep snow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they niade the first land, the ground was covered with copper, over which a body of earth had since l:eeu cuiiected, to the depth of a man's height. They believe also, that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their ieet were worn out with walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a deluge, when the wa^ ters spread over the whole earth, except the high- est mountains, on the tops of which they preserved themselves. ; They believe, that immediately after fheir death, they pass into another world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a stone ca- noe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an extensive lake, in the centre of which is a most beautiful island; and that, in the view of this de- lightful abode, they receive that judgment for their conduct during Wt'e, which terminates their final state and unalterable allotment. If their good ac- tions are declared to predominate, they are landed upon thd island, where there is to be no end to their happiness ; which, however, according to their no- tions, consists in an eternal enjoyment of sensual :^K.: iS^ AMONG TRK INDIAVS. 145 pleasure, and carnat gratification. But if there be bad actions to weigh down the balance, the stone canoe sinks at once, and leaves thetn up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the re- ward enjoyed by the good, and eternally strug- gling, but with unavailing endeavours, to reach the blissful island, from which they are excluded for ever. They have some faint notions of the transmigra- tion of the soul; so that if a child be born with teeth, they instantly imagine, from its premature appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some person who had lived to an advanced period, and that 'he has assumed a renovated life, with these extraordinary tokens of maturity. The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and va- grant, with a selfish disposition which has sometimes created suspicions of their integrity. Their stature has nothing remarkable in it; but though they arc seldom corpulent, they are sometimes robust. . Their complexion is swarthy; their features coarse, and their hair lank, but not always of a dingy blacky nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally animates the Indian countenance. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the men, • but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from their being accustomed nine months in the year to travel on snow-shoes, and drag sledges of a weight from two to foUr hundred pounds. They are very submissive to their husbands, who have, however, their fits of jealousy ; and, for very trifling causes, . treat them with such cruelty as sometimes to oc-' 4^ 146 NEW TKAVELS casion tlieir death. They are frequently objects of traffic ; and the father possesses tlie right of dispo- sing of his daughter.^ The men in general extract their beards^ though some of tiiem are seen to pre- fer a bushy, black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their hair in various forms, or leave it in a long natural flow, according as their caprice or fancy suggests. The women always wear it in a great length, and some of them are very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time appear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer punishment than manual correction. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to four straight lines ou their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the tribe to which they belong. These marks are either tatooed, or made by drawing a thread, dip- ped in the necessary colour, beneath the skin. There are no people more attentive to the com- forts of their dress, or less anxious respecting its exterior appearance. In the winter it is composed of the skins of deer, and their fawns, and dressed as fine as any chamois leather, in the hair. In the summer their apparel is the same, except that it is prepared without the hair. The shoes and leggings are sewn together, the latter reaching upwards, to the middle, and being supported by a belt, under which a small piece of leather is drawn to cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both be- • "piey do not, however, sell them as slaves, but an compa- nions to those who are supposed to live more comfortably than themselves. fore a tlic m leatliei round and th pen dec pet sur of the made o covers i double, wit])in [ will Javi ^ake, am times fir her Iiims the nigh of provii seldom eyes he delicacy satisfy hi make hisf whom I circumstd WJien til which d< wood foij igency, tl the sun.*| * The pr ; y- : Plurality of wives is common among them, and the ceremony of marriage is of a very simple na- ture. The girls are betrothed at a very early pe- riod to those whom the parents think the best able to support them, nor is the inclination of the wo- man consider^. Whenever a separation takes place, which sometimes happens, it depends en- tirely on the will and pleasure of the husband. In common with the other Indians of this country, they have a custom respecting the periodical state of a woman, which is rigorously observed ; at that time she must seclude herself from society. They are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same path as the men, when travelling ; and it is con- sidered a great breach of decency for a woman so I circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly oc- cupation. Such a circumstance is supposed to de- file them, so that their subsequent use would be [followed by certain mischief or misfortune. There re particular skins which the women never touch, 4t **Nl *v» ■^r 1^ ■W''- 150 NEW TRAVELS 99 of the bear and wolf, and those animals the men , are seldom known to kill. ; • • They are not remarkable for their activity as hunters, which is owing to the ease with which they snare deer and spear fish ; and these occupa- tions are not beyond the strength of their old men, women, and boys: so that they participate in those laborious occupations, which among their neigh- bours are confined to the women. They make war on the Esquimaux, who cannot resist their supe- rior numbers, and put them to death, as it is a principle with them never to make prisoners. At the same time they tamely submit to the Kniste- neaux, who are not so numerous as themselves, when they treat them as enemies. > They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting cither among themselves or strangers, which is common with the Knisteneaux, but communicate mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are possessed. Nor are they roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of ^, great activity. They are consequently more uni- form in this respect, though they are of a very persevering disposition whea their interest is con- cerned. ' As these people are not addicted to spirituous li- quors, they have a regular and uninterrupted use of their understanding, which is always directed to the advancement of their own interest ; and this disposition, as may be readily imagined, sometimes occasions them to be charged with fraudulent ha- ' bits, They will submit with patience to the severest] treat it, bi or un ver fc them, Indiai The but l\ thougi ,-b;^ ■ -^ AMONG THE INDIANS. 1^1 treatment, when they are couscious they deserve it, hut will never forget nor fdrglve any wanton or unnecessary rigour. A moderate condu(*t I ne- ver found to fail, nor do I hesitate to represent them, altogether, as-^ the most peaceable tribe of Indians known in North America. There are conjurers and high-priests among them, but I was not present at any of their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of disorders. Their principal maladies are, the rheu- matic pains, theflux and consumption. The venereal complaint is very common ; but though its progress is slow, it gradually undermines the constitution, and brings on premature decay. They have re- course to superstition for their cure, and charms are their only remedies, except the bark of the wil- low, which being burned and reduced to powder is strevved upon green wounds and ulcers, and places contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use of simples and plants they have no know- ledge ; nor can it be expected, as their country does not produce them. Though they haveenjoyed so long an intercourse with Europeans, their country is so barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordinary necessaries naturally introduced by such a communication ; and they continue, in a great measure, their own inconvenient and awkward modes of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive the deer into the small lakes, where they '-« ^ ii^' 158 NEW TRAVELS * spear them, or force them into enclosures, where the bow and arrow are employed against them. These animals are also taken in snares made of sk;n. In the former instance, the game is divided among those who have been engagfgd in the pursuit of it. In the latter, it h considered as private property; nevertheVess, any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving the head, skin, and saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no regular government, as every man is lord in his own family, they are influenced, more or less, by certain principles which conduce to their general benefit In their quarrels wi*h each other, they very rarely proceed to a greater degree of violence than is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling of the hair; while their abusive language consists in applying the name of the most offensive animal to the object of their displeasure, and adding the term ugly, and chiay, or stillborn.* ^ Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the articles procured from Americans, are spears, bows and arrows, fishing-nets, and lines made of green deer- skin thongs. They have also liets for taking the beaver as he endeavour to esc9{^ from his lodge when it is broken open. It is set ii$'a par^ ticular manner for the purpose, and a man is em- ployed to watch the mon^nt when he enters the * This name is also applicable to tbe fcstus of an animal whn^ Icjlled) which is considered as one of the greatest delicacies* tPC^ j -» ■ » t • \»' AMONO THE INDIANS. *" 153 snare, or he would soon cut his way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice, where he remains as if he had no life in him. - .t The snow-shoes are of a very superior workman- ship. The inner part of their frame is straight, tlie outer one is curved, and it is pointed at both ends, with that in front turned up. They are also laced with great neatness with thongs made of deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin slips of board turned up also in front, and are highly polished with crooked knives in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained wood is, on that account, the best; but their's are made of the red or swamp spruce- fir tree. The country, which these people claim as their land, has a very small quantity of earth, and pro- duces little or no wood or herbage. Its chief vege- table substance is the moss, on which their deer feeil; and a kind of rock-moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the natives. When boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy gluti- nous substance, that affords a very sufficient nou- rishment. But, notwithstanding the barren state of their country, >vith proper care and economy, Ihese people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound with fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Though, of aH the Indian people of this continent, they are considered as the most provident, they sufter severely at certain seasons, and particularly in the dead of winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty ^ m '*( ^ t^ w ''■%■ h ^ ■a 154 NEW TRAVELS " MTOods. To the westward of them the musk-ox may be found, but they have no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. There are also large hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their coun- try, and several kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, &c. The beaver and moose-deer they do not find until they come within sixty de- grees north latitude, and the buffalo is still further south. That animal is known to frequent a higher latitude to the westward of their country. These people bring pieces of variegated marble, which are found on the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and hardens with time. It endures heat, and is manufactured into pipes or calumets, as they are very fond of smoking to- bacco ; a luxury which the Europeans communi- cated to them, r V , ' Their amusements or recreations are but few. Their music is so inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed to be ashamed of both, as they very seldom practise either. They also shoot at marks, and play at the games common among them; but iu fact prefer sleeping to either; and the greater part of their time is passed in procuring food, and resting from the toil necessary to obtain tti v i Tliey are also of a querulous disposition, and are continually making complaints; which they ex- press l)y a constant repetition of the^ord eduiy, " it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice. .||» the gi that dead mon friend their the de crific( If * "^ AMONG THE INDIANS. J' 135 They are superstitious in the extreme, and al- most every action of their lives, however trivial, is more or less influenced by some whimsical no- tion. I never observed that they had any particular form of religious worship ; hut as they believe in a good and evil spirit, and a state of future rewards and punishments, they cannot he ievoid of reli- gious impressions. At the same time lliey manifest a decided unwillingness to make any communica- tions on the subject. * > ' '''■■■' •• The Chcpewyans have been accused of abandon- in[»; their aged and infirm people to perish, and of not burying their dead, but these are melancholy necessities, which proceed from their wandering way of life. They are by no means universal, for < it is within my knowledge, that a man rendered helpless by palsy, was carried about for many years, with the greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a natural death. That they should not bury their dead in their own countr}', cannot be im- puted to them as a custom arising from a savage in- sensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that the ground never thaws ; but it is well known, that when they a;K in the woods, they cover their dead with trees. Besides, they manifest no com- mon respect to the memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cutting off their hair, and never make use of the property of the deceased. Nay, they frequently destroy or sa- crifice their own, as a token of regret or sorrow. If there be any people who, from the barren --*•- 150 KEW TRAVELS state of the country, might be supposed to be can- oibals by nature, these people, from the difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable to that imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, I never was acquainted with one instance of that disposition ; nor among all the natives which I met with in a route of five thousand miles, did I see or hear of an examp?'^ of cannibalism, but such as arose from that iri istible necessity, which has been known to impel even the most civilized people to eat each other. ^-■^ # '■i '.. :*. 157 STATISTICAL VIEW. • GRAND't)SAGE NATION. They claim the country within the following limits, viz. commencing at the mouth of a south branch of the Osage river, called Neangua, and with the same to its source, thence southwardly to in- tersect the Arkansas about one hundred miles below the three forks of that river; thence up its principal branch to the confluence of a large northwardly branch, lying a considerable distance west of the Great Saline, and with that stream nearly to its source; thence northwardly, towards the Kansas river, embracing the waters of the upper portion of the Osage river,' and thence obliquely approaching the same to the beginning. The climate is delightful, and the soil fertile in the extreme. The face of the country is generally level, and well watered ; the eastern part of the country is coveted with a variety of excellent timber ; the western and middle country high prairies. It embraces within its limits four sahnes, which are, in point of magnitude and excel- lence, unequalled by any known in North America: there are also many others of less note. The princi- pal part of the Great Osage nation have always re- sided at their villages, on the Osage river, since they 158 NKW TRAVELS , liave been known to the inliabitants of Louisiana. About tlirce years since, nearly one half of this na- tion, headed by their chief the Big-track, emigrated to tinee forks of tlic Arkansas, near which, and on its north side, they cstal)lished a village, where they now reside. The little Osage formerly re- sided on the S. W. side of the Missouri, near the mouth of Grand river; but being reduced by con- tinual warfare with their neighbours, were com- pelled to seek *he protection of the Great Osage, near whom they now reside. 1 here is no doubt but their trade will increase : they could furnish a much larger quantity of beaver than they do. I think two villages, on the Osage river, might be prevailed on to remove to the Arkansas, and the Kansas higher up the Missouri; and thus leave a sufficient scope of country for the Shawnees, Dille- wars, Miames, and Kickapoos. The Osages cul- tivate corn, beans, &c. ,, . ., it _,,., ^ , KANZAS. ..-..,v .,., , The limits of the country they claim, is not known. The country in wiiich they reside, and from thence to the Missouri, is a delightful one, and generally well watered, and covered with ex- cellent timber : they hunt to the upper part of Kan- zas and Arkanzas rivers. Their trade may be ex- pected to increase with proper management. At present they are a dissolute, lawless banditti; fre- quently plunder their traders, and commit depre- dations on persons ascending and descending the Missouri river; population rather increasing. These people, are stal of Mar 15th rest of : cultival They of any < hmits. to the 11 they trei generally cultivatii Osage. rivers, ai try in w] fertile borders a good creasing where th ants oft These nation in to the Fr was situa the north trance of AMOKG THE INDIANS. 1.59 people, as well as the Great and Little Osages, are stationary, at their villages, from about the 15th of March to the 15th of May, and again from the 15th of August to the 13th of October: the rest of the year is appropriated to hunting. They cultivate corn, &c. . . OTTOES. They have no idea of an exclusive possession of any country, nor do they assign themselves any limits. I do not believe that they would object to the introduction of any well-disposed Indians: they treat the traders with respect and hospitality, generally. In their occupations of hunting and cultivation, they are the same with the Kanzas and Osage. They hunt on the Saline and Nimmehaw rivers, and west of them in the plains. The coun- try in which they hunt lies well ; it is extremely fertile and well watered ; that part of it which borders on the Nimmehaw and Missouri possesses a good portion of timber : population rather in- creasing. I'hey have always resided near the place where their village is situated, and are the descend- ants of the Missouris. .._x- ' • . / " \ '..■'" "'^■,'' MissouRL ;__: . V ,.,. These are the remnant of the most numerous nation inhabiting the Missouri, when first known to the French. Their ancient and principal village was situated in an extensive and fertile plain, on the north bank of the Missouri, just below the en- trance of the Grand river. Re^jeated attacks of .d 160 ITEW TRAVELS the small-pox, together with their war with tht Saukees and Renars, have reduced them to their present state of dependence on the Ottoes, with whom they reside, as well in their village as on their hunting excursions. The Ottoes view them as their inferiors, and sometimes treat them amiss. These people are the real proprietors of an exten- sive and fertile country lying on the Missouri, ahove their ancient village for a considerable dis- tance, and as low as the mouth of the Osage river, and thence to the Mississippi. PANIAS. ^ "With respect to their idea of the possession of soil, it is similar to that of the Ottoes. They hunt on the south side of the river Plate, higher up and on the head of the Kanzas. A great proportion of this country consists of open plains, interspersed, how- ever, with groves of timber, which are most gene- rally found in the vicinity of the water-courses. It is generally fertile and well watered ; lies level, and free of stone. They have resided in the country which they now inhabit, since they were known to the whites. Their trade is a valuable one, from the large proportion of beaver and otter which they furnish, and it may be expected yet to increase, as those animals are still abundant in their country. The periods of their residence at their village and hunting, are similar to the Kanzas and Osages. Their population is increasing. They are friendly and hospitable to all white persons ; pay great re- •pect and deference to their traders, with whom they are pi are, i pie Am are fn ten ye. mothei north M have gi hved in of Kan bulent 1 Panias respect i people, Kepubli timber t -■Ti-,. lown rom /hich ease, ntry. and ages, endly at re- they AMONG THE INDIANS 161 are punctual in the payment of their debts. They are, in all respects, a friendly, well-disposed peo- ple They cultivate corn, beans, melons, &c. , PANIAS REPUBLICANS. Are a branch of the Pania Proper, or, as they are frequently termed, the Big Paunch. About ten ye«irs since they withdrew themielves from the mother nation^ and established a village on a large nortliM'ardly branch of the Kanzas, to which they have given name : they afterwards subdivided and lived in dlVerent parts of the country on the waters of Kanzas river ; but being harassed by their tur- bulent neighbours, the Kanzas, they rejoined the Panias Proper last spring. What has been said with respect to the Panias Proper is applicable to these people, except that they hunt principally on the Republican river, which is better stocked with timber than that bunted by the Panias. . PANIAS LOUPS, (OR WOLVLS) These are also a branch of the Panias Proper, who separated themselves from that nation many years since, and estabUshed themselves on a north branch of the river Plate, to which their name was also given : these people have likewise no idea of an exclusive right lo any portion of country. They hunt on the Wolf river above their village,, and on the river Plate above the mouth of that river. This country is very similar to that of the Panias Proper, though there is an extensive body of fertile well timbered land bet^yeen the Wolf tU t-v. 4i nil 111 ^^% 162 NEW TBAVKLS > ver below their village and the river Corn de Cerf, or Elkhorn river. They cultivate corn, beans, &c. The particulars related of the other Pauias are also applicable to them. They are seldom visited by any trader, and therefore usually bring their furs and peltry to the village of the Panias Proper, where they traffic with the whites. .;r ,/.';> ^ ■j -yijiu MAHAL They have no idea of exclusive possession of soil. About ten years since, they boasted of 700 warriors. They have lived in a village, on the west bank of the Missouri, 236 miles above the mouth of the river Plate, where they cultivated corn, beans, and melons : they were warlike, and the terror of their neir^ibours. In the summer and autumn of 1802, they were visited by the small-pox, which reduced their numbers to some- thing less than 300; they burnt their village, and have become a wandering nation, deserted by the traders ; the consequent deficiency of arms and ammunition has invited frequent aggressions from their neighbours, which have tended to reduce them still further. They rove principally on the waters of the river Quicurre, or Rapid river. The country is. generally level, high, and open; it is fertile, and tolerably well watered. They might easily be induced to become stationary : they are well disposed towards the whites, and are good hunters: their country abounds in beaver and otter, and their trade will increase and become valuable, provided they become stationary, and are a took Thj point branci oppres; side of built a years ; the Sio have joi languag t c* AMONG THE INDIANS. J 63 are at peace. The Tetons Bois biAie killed and took about sixty of them last summer* . / ■ f'-M-i't , PONCARS. The remnant of a nation once respectable in point of numbers. They formerly resided on a branch of the Red river of lake VVinnipie : being oppressed by the Sioux, they removed to the west side of the Missouri, on Poncar river, where they built and fortified a village, and remained some years ; but being pursued by their ancient enemies the Sioux, and reduced by continual wars, they have joined, and now reside with the Mahus, whose language they speak. %4 , RICARAS. - Are the remains of ten large tribes of Panias, who have been reduced, by the small-pox, and the Sioux, to the present number. Tiiey live in for- tified villages, and hunt immediatfly in their neighbourhood. The country around them, in every direction, for several hundred miles, is en- tirely bare of timber, except on the water courses and steep declivities of hills, where it is sheltered from the ravages of fire. The land is tolerably well watered, and lies well for cultivation. The remains of the villages of these people are to be seen on many parts of the Missouri, from the mouth of Tetone river to the Mandans. They claim no land except that on which their villages stand, and the fields which they cultivate. The Tetons claim the country around them. Though they are the oldest inhabitants, they may properly # m 't^ ■m +; y \ . IK* l(i4 NEW TRAVELS be considered the farmers or tenants at will of that lawless, savage, and rapacious race, the Sioux 7c- ton, who rob them of their horses, phmder their gardens and fields, and sometimes murder them, without opposition. If these people were freed from the oppression of the Tetons, their trade would increase rapidly, and might be extended to a considerable amount. They maintain a partial trade with their oppressors, the Tetons, to whom they barter horses, mules, cprn, beans, and a species of tobacco which they cultivate ; and re- ceive in return guns, ammunition, kettles, axes, and other articles which the Tetons obtain from the Yanktons of the north, and Sissatones, who trade with Mr. Cammeron, on the river St. Peters. These horses and mules the Ricaras obtain from tbeir western neighbours, who visit them frequently for the purpose of trafficing. * ,;■■'•. MANDANS. ''. ^^' -"'':■'•-" These are the most friendly, well-disposed In- dians inhabiting the Missouri. They are brave, humane, and hospitable. About twenty-five years since they lived in six villages, about forty miles below their present villages, on both sides of the Missouri. Repeated visitations of the small-pox, aided by frequent attacks of the Sioux, have re- duced them to their present number. They claim no particular tract of country. They live in ftr- tified villages, hunt immediately in their neigh- bourhood, and cultivate corn, beans, squashes, a^d tobaccoj which form articles of traific with their n horses 1 axes, I nufacti establis tides w] and the exchan^ Crow I] Kanenai occasion trade mj similar i creasinar ThetI fiom the the unjui tares, pr dians, fr induce tl been a pi acknowie the Miss( them to i Thev assign th lates thai villages. •^ AMUNO THE ZNDIAX3. 165 their neighbours the Assinniboin : they also baiter horses with the Assinniboins for arms, ammunition, - axes, kettles, and other articles of European ma- nufacture; these last they obtain from the British establishments on the Assinniboin river. The ar- ticles which they thus obtain from the Assinniboins and the British traders who visit them, they again exchange for horses and leather tents with the Crow Indians, Chyennes, Wetepahatoes, Kiavvas, Kanenavich, Stactan, and Cataka, who visit them occasionally for the purpose of traffic. Their trade may be much increased. Their country is similar to that of the Ricaras. Population in- creasing. AHWAHHAWAY. They differ but very little, in any particular, from the Mandans, their neighbours, except in the unjust war which they, as well as the Miuj- tares, prosecute against the defenceless Snake lr>- In- I dians, from which, I believe, it will be difficult to induce them to desist. They claim to La'/c once been a part of the Crow Indians, whom they still acknowledge as relations. They have resided on the Missouri as loijg as their tradition will enable them to inform. * • ^*i^'>;# #■ lii - MINETARES. ; They claim no particular country, nor do they assign themselves any limits ; their tradition re- lates that they have always resided at their present villages. In their customs, manners, and dispo- i,-**i '■'^■.f ¥ 166 ' NEW TRAVELS sitions they are similar to the Mandans and Ah-? wahhaways. The scarcity of fuel induces them to reside, during tlie cohl season, in large bands, in camps, on different parts of the Missouri, as high up that river as the mouth of the river Yellow Stone, and west of their villages, about the Turtle Mountain. I believe that these people, as well as the Mandans and Ahwahha\vays, might be pre- vaih^d on to remove to the mouth of Yellow Stone river, provided an establishmeht ts made at that place. They have as yet furnished scarcely any beaver, although the country they hunt abounds with them; the lodoes of these animals are to be seen within a mile of their villages. These people have also suffered considerably by the small-pox ; but have successfully resisted the attacks of the Sioux. The north west company intend to form an establishment in the course of the next summer and autumn on the Missouri, near these people, which, if effected, will most probably prevent their removal to any point, which our government may hereafter wish them to reside at. , \ SAUKIES AND RENARS, OR FOXES. These nations are so perfectly consolidated, that they may, in fact, be considered as one na- tion only. They speak the same language : they for- merly resided on the east side of the Mississippi, and still claim the land on that side of the river, from the mouth of the Oisconsin to the Illinois river, and eastward towards lake Michigan; but to what particular boundary, I am not informed : they a coiintr forms ( ana ; I: are wil claim a war wit of ther bounda their tr; peace \v tions W( at war : same fo corn, h in the c( but thei Mississij the mou extreme jure the cable e they an ble the souris, Piorias. Claij north-w village t '.vi^-- ^ AMONG THE INDIANS. l67 they also claim, by conquest, the whole of the country belonging to the ancient Missouris, which forms one of the most valuable portions of Louisi- ana ; but what proportion of this territory they are willing to assign to the Ayouways, who also claim a part of it, I do not know, as they are at war with the Sioux, who live north and north-west of them, except the Yankton Ahnah. Their boundaries in that quarter are also undefined : their trade would become much more valuable if peace were established between them, and the na- tions west of the Missouri, with whom they are at war : their population has remained nearly the same for many years : they raise an abundance of corn, beans, and melons : they sometimes hunt in the country west of them, towards the Missouri, but their principal hunting is on both sides of the Mississippi, from the mouth of the Oisconsin to the mouth of the Illinois river. These people are extremely friendly to the whites, and seldom in- jure their traders ; but they are the most impla- cable enemies to the Indian nations with whom they are at war. To them is justly attributa- ble the almost entire destruction of the Mis- souris, the Illinois, Cahokias, Kaskaskias, and Piorias. WAHPATONE Claim the country in which they rove en the north-west side of the river St. Peters, from their village to the mouth of the Chippeway river, and ^w Pl 1 *''''' 1 r. f. *^ fell |'«.l^ i 1 kW ' jl>V a i|\| wM 1 H .« A 168 KEW TRAVELS thence north-eastwardly towards the head of the Mississippi, including the Crow-wing river. Their lands are fertile, and generally well timbered. They are only stationary while their traders are with them, which is from the beginning of Oc^ tober to the latter end of March. Their trade is supposed to be at its greatest extent. They treat their traders with respect, and seldom attempt to rob them. This, as well as the other Sioux bands, act, in all respects, as independently of each other is if they were a distinct nation. MINDAWARCARTON. This is the only band of Sioux that cultivates corn, beans. Sec; and these even cannot pro- perly be termed a stationary people. They live in tents of dressed leather, which they transport by means of horses and dogs, and ramble from place to place during the greater part of the year. They are friendly to their own traders ; but the inve- terate enemies of such as supply their enemies, the Cbippeways, with merchandise, They also claim the country in which they hunt, commenc- ing at the entra ){ e r f the river St. Peters, and extending tipM^ards, on both siHes of the Missis- sippi river, to the mouth of the Crow-river. The land is fertile, and well watered ; lies level and sufficiently timbered. Their trade cannot be ^^' pected to increase much, •* v- / ^ . .; 1 -*.« AMONG THE INDIANS. 169 V WAHPACOOTA. They rove in the country south-west of the ri- ver St. Peters, from a place called the Hardwood, to the mouth of the Yellow Medicine river: never stationary but when their traders are with them, and this does not happen at any regular or fixed point. At present they treat their traders toler- ably well. Their trade cannot be expected to in- crease much. A great proportion of their country consists of open plains, lies level, and is toler- ably fertile. They maintain a partial traffic with the Yanktons and Tetons to the west of them ; to these they barter the articles which they obtain from the traders on the river St. Peters, an 1 leceive in return horses, some robes and leather lodges. '/ ,:„ SISSATONE. They claim the country in which they rove, em- bracing the upper portions of the Red river, of Jake Winnipie, and St. Peters : it is a level country, intersected with many small lakes; the land is fer- tile and free of stone; the major part of it open plains. This country abounds more in the valu- able fur animals, the beaver, otter and martin, than any portion of Louisiana yet known. This cir- cumstance furnishes the Sissatones wifh the means of purchasing more merchandise, in proportion to their number, than any nation in this quarter. A great proportion of this merchandise is reserved by them for their trade with the Tetons, whom they annually meet at some point previously agreed % M- ***■ t,»>y m^:':m 170 XEW TRAVELS ' ' on, Upon the waters of James river, in the month of May. This Indian fair is frequently attended by the Yanktons of the North and Ahnah. The Sis- satones and Yanktons of the North here supply the others with considerable quantities of arms, am- munition, axes, knives, kettles, cloth, and a va- riety of other articles; and receive in return prin- cipally horses, which the others have stolen or purchased from the nations on the Missouri and west of it. They are devoted to the interests of their traders. YANKTONS OF THE NORTH. This band, although they purchase a smaller quantity of merchandise than the Sissatones, still appropriate a considerable proportion of what they do obtain in a similar manner with that mentioned of the Sissatones. This trade, as small as it may appear, has been sufhcient to render the Tetons in- dependent of the trade of the Missouri, in a great measure, and has furnished them with the means, not only of distressing and plundering the traders of the Missouri, but also, of plundering and mas- sacring the defenceless savages of the Missouri, from the mouth of the river Plate to the Mine- tares, and west to the rocky mountains. The country these people inhabit is almost one en- tire plain, without timber; it is extremely le- vel ; the soil fertile, and generally well watered. Th the b suffer possil ably i with, the pr proper comnii They s partial few yei if well valuabi consists The lai plains TETOl DA] TETl AMONG THE INDIANS. 171 YANKTONS AHNAH. These are the hest disposed Sioux who rove on the banks of the Missouri, and these even will not suffer any trader to ascend the river, if they can possibly avoid it: they have, heretofore, invari- ably arrested the progress of all they have met with, and generally compelled them to tra'A at the prices, nearly, which they themselves thh k proper to fix on their merchandise: they seldom commit any further acts of violence on the whites. They sometimes visit the river Demoin, where a partial trade has been carried on with them, for a few years past, by a Mr. Crawford. Their trade, if well regulated, might be rendered extremely valuable. Their country is a very fertile one; it consists of a mixture of woodlands and prairies. The land bordering on the Missouri is principally plains with but little timber. W, TETONS BOIS BRULE. TETONS OKAN- DANDAS. TETONS MINNAKINEAZZO. TETONS SAHONE. ■ These are the vilest miscreants of the savage race, and must ever remain the pirates of the Mis- souri, until such measures are pursued, by our go- vernment, as M'ill make them feel a dependence on its will for their supply of merchandise. Unless these people are reduced to order, by coercive mea- sures, I am ready to pronounce that the citizens of the United States can never enjoy but partially 'iii 179 NEW TRAVELS the advantages which the Missouri presents. Re- lying on a regular supply of merchandise, through the channel of the river St. Peters, tliey view ,/ith contempt the merchants of the Missouri, whom they never fail to plunder, when in their power. Persuasioii or advice, with them, is viewed a ^ sup- plication, and only tends to inspire them with con- tempt for those who offer either. The tameness with which the traders of the Missouri have here- tofore suhmitted to their rapacity, has tended not a httle to inspire them with contempt for the white persons who visit them, through that chan- nel. A prevalent idea among them, and one which they make the rule of their conduct, is, that the worse they treat the traders the greater quan- tity of merchandis they will bring them, and that they v/ill thus obtain the articles they wisli on better terms; they have endeavoured to inspire the Ricaras with similar sentiments, but, happily, without any considerable effect. The country in which these four bands rove is one continued plain, with scarcely a tree to be seen except on the water- courses, or the steep declivities of hills, which lust are but rare : the land is fertile, and lies extremely well for cultivation ; many parts of it are but badly watered. It is from this country that the Missouri derives most of its colouring matter; the earth is strongly impregnated with Glauber's salts, alum, copperas and sulphur, and when saturated with water, immense bodies of the hills precipitate themselves into the Missouri, and mingle with its f aters. The water of this river S sj hrough ?w Willi , whom power, as sup- ilh con- ameness ,ve here- uled not for the lat cban- nc which that the cr qiian- ancl ihat wish on o inspire , happily, ountry in :ontiuue(i jxcept on s of hills, e, and lies >art8 of it s country colouring ated with phur, and (lies of the ssouri, and this riv^r AMONG JHS INDIANS. 173 has a purgative effect on those unaccustomed to use it. I doubt whether these people can ever be induced to become stationary ; their trade might be made valuable if they were retluced to order. They claim jointly with the other band of the Sioux, all the country lying within the following limits, viz. beginning at the confluence of the Demoin and Mississippi, thence up th wpst side of the Mississippi to the mouth of the Peter's river, thence on both sides of the Mississipi to the mouth of Crow-wing river, and upwards with that stream, including the waters of the upper part of the same, thence to include the waters of the upper portion of red river, of lake Winnipie, and down the same nearly to Pembenar river, thence a south-wes- terly course to intersect the Missouri at or near the Mandans, and with that stream downwards to the entTance of the Warrecunne creek, thence passing the Missouri it goes to include the lower portion of the river Chyenne, all the waters of White river and river Teton, includes the lower portion of the river Quicurre, and returns to the Missouri, and with that stream downwards to the mouth of Waddipon river, and thence eastwardly to inter- sect the Mississippi at the beginning. t*^'v •> CHYENNES. • -.*,"*■ •• They are the remnant of a nation once respect- able in point of number: formerly resided on a branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipie, which still bears their name. Being oppressed by the Siouxi they removed to the west side of the Mis- souri, about fifteen miles below the mouth of .^, I li,, lir' ■i?«; 'I '> '\ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 gitt 122 1.1 £ m. 120 u ■lUU u& Sdmces CarparatJon # .^ ^^4^ r^^!^^ 1 '-'' 11^ U4 < 6" -> 23 WKT MAIN STRMT WnSTN,N.Y. MStO (71*)t7a-4M» ^^ '4 V W' 174 . NEW TRAVELS Warriciinne creek, where they built and fortified a village, but being pursued by their ancient ene- mies the Sioux, they fled to the Black-hills, about the head of the Chyenne river, where they wander iu quest of the buffaloe, having no fixed residence. They do not cultivate. They are well disposed to- wards the whites, and might easily be induced to settle on the Missouri, if they could be assured of being protected from the Sioux. Their number annually diminishes. Their trade may be made valuable. * i \H,»'t.i il'tii' ' * < .IT-* 'I ' !• WETEPAHATOES. They are a wandering nation, inhabit an open country, and raise a great number of horses, which they barter to the Ricaras, Mandans, &c. for arti- cles of European manufacture. They are a well- disposed people, and might be readily induced to visit the trading estabhshments on the Missouri. From the animals their country produces, their trade would, no doubt, become valuable. These people again barter a considerable proportion of the articles they obtain from the Menetares, Ah- wahhaways, Mandans, and Ricaras, to the Do- tames and Castapanas. m - * /- DOTAME. ' ;■ 'i " The information I possess, with respect to this nation, is derived from Indian information : they are said to be a wandering nation, inhabiting an open country, and who raise a great number of 9 cf --■^- *- „ . . AMONG THE INDIANS. 175 horses and mules. They are a friendly, well-dis- posed people, and might, from the position of their country, be easily induced to visit an establish- ment on the Missouri, about the mouth of Chy- enne river. They have not, as yet, visited the Missouri. ^A -!^ft, . >f A ■-"«•■ ...... i..;,v^- . CASTAHANA. ,,.,,. ...... What has been said of the Dotames is applic- able to these people, except that they trade prin- cipally with the Crow Indians, and that they would most probably prefer visiting an establish- ment on the Yellow Stone River, or at its mouth on the Missouri. m ii CROW INDIANS. These people are divided into four bands, called by themselves Ah^h'-4r-ro'-pir-no-pah, Noo'-ta-, Pa-rees-car, and E-h4rt'-sAr. They annually visit the Mandans, Menetares, and Ahwahhaways, to whom they barter horses, mules, leather lodges, and many articles of Indian apparel, for which they receive in return, guns, ammunition, axes, kettles, awls, and other European manufactures. When they return to their country, they are in turn vfsited by the Paunch and Snake Indians, to whom they barter most of the articles they have obtained from the nations on the Missouri, for horses and mules, of which those nations have a greater abundance than themselves. They also obtain of the Snake Indians, bridle- bits and blan- kets, and some other articles which those Indians 4^ ■^. M 176 NEW TRAVELS purchase from the Spaniards. The bridle-bits and blankets I have seen' in the possession of the Man- dans and Menetares. Their country is fertile, and well watered, and in most parts well timbered. PAUNCH INDIANS. These are said to be a peaceable, well-disposed nation. Their country is a variegated one, con- sisting of mountains, vallies, plains, and wood- lands, irregularly interspersed. They might be induced to visit the Missouri, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone river; and from the great abundance of valuable furred animals, which their country, as well as that of the Crow Indians, produces, their trade must become extremely valuable. They are a roving people, and hav^ no idea of exclusive right to the soil. . , . ?. ^^^ ». b»-!.h * MANETOPA. OSEEGAH. MAHTOPANATO. Are the descendants of the Sioux, and partake of their turbulent and faithless disposition: they frequently plunder, and sometimes murder their own traders. The name by which this nation is generally known was borrowed from the Chippe- ways, who call them Assinriiboany which, literally translated, h Stone Sioux; hence the name of Stone Indians, by which they are sometimes called. The country in which they rove is almost entirely uncovered with timber; lies extremely level, and is but badly watered in many parts; the land, however, is tolerably fertile and unincumbered with stone. They might be induced to trade at the ri their t tinue Sioux, akhou^ make v by the than th not cul Claij sippi, fr its sou re to the la they sti] also, eas ing as f of the St with tim fertile, tl intersectt and sroal of the Mi not cultii which thi borders o\ sissippi^ reduced is at itsgJ AMONG THE tNDIAT^S. 177 the river Yellow Stone; but I do not think that their trade promises much. Their numbers con- tinue about the same. These bands, Hke the Sioux, act entirely independent of each other, although they claim a national affinity, and never make war on each other. The country inhabited by the Mahtopanato possesses rather more timber than the other parts of the country. They do not cultivate. CHIPPEWAYS, of Leach Lake, Claim the country on both sides of the Missis- sippi, from the mouth of the Crow-wing river to its source, and extending west of the Mississippi to the lands claimed by tlie Sioux, with whom they still contend for dominion. They claim, also, east of t!3e Mississippi, the country extend- ing as far as lake Superior, including the waters of the St. Louis. This country is thickly covered with timber generally; lies level, and generally fertile, though a considerable proportion of it is^ intersected and broken up by small lakes, morasses and small swamps, particularly about the heads^ of the Mississippi, and river St. Louis. They do not cultivate,, but live principally on the wild rice, which they procure in great abundance on the borders of Leach Lake and the banks of the Mis^ sissippi. Their number has . been considerably reduced by wars and the small-pox. Their trade is at its greatest extent. f n « 178 VZyr TEA V ELS i <• •*f. u j • V •l#/n K. > Chippewats, 0/ /2erf Lake, Claim the country about Red Lake and Red Lake river, as far as the Red river of lake Winni- pie, beyond which last river they contend with the Sioux for territory. This is a low level coun- try, and generally thickly covered with timber, interrupted with many swamps ^nd morasses. This, as well as the other bands of Chippeways, are esteemed the best hunters in the North-west country; but from the long residence of this band in the country they now inhabit, game is becom- ing scarce; therefore, their trade is supposed to be at its .greatest extent. The Cfeippeways are a well-disposed people, but excessively fond of spi- rituous liquors. V y^i r.r.ii:.'.» iiih' ^.>., Ei'^ihv.i Chippeways, of River Pembena. ' -■•>• rrs - These people formerly resided on the east side of the Mississippi, at Sand lake, but were in- duced, by the North-west company, to remove, about two years since, to the river Pembena. They do not claim the lands on which they hunt The country is level, and the soil good. The west side of the river is principally prairies or open plains ; on the east side there is a greater propor- tion of timber. Their trade at present is a very valuable one, and will probably increase for some years. They do niot cultivate, but live by hunt- ing. They are well-disppsed towards the whites. .. X--, •■•^- »•_ •,., . I am tached bit is hunted hausted whites* are ext which them b} bark can Ai These try, mos with gan the Wooc introduce ers, in 01 parts of variety of orderly, tions on quors. T Th^y at nor claim are well-dl ^f> AMONG TBE IN>DIAN8. 179 ALGON QUINS, of Rainy Lake, called by them Sodo, which is navigable for pero- ques only within about six miles of their village, and that only in the rainy season. They are dis- tant from Natchitoches about ISO miles, the near- est route by land, and in nearly a north-west direc- tion. They have livpd where they now do only five years. The first year they moved there the small-pox got amongst them and destroyed nearly one half of them ; it was in the winter season, and they practised plunging into the creek on the first appearance of the eruption, and died in a few hours. Two years ago they had the measles, of which feyera^ more of fhem died, Thpy formerly liv,e.4 on the the riv rie, wl] middle countrj ancestc They Caddos Mevc in, ants of world V whole c nence, i who alo Indians The ] was tran and son likewise erected from Fi there til moved River, wheiie t fourtecE ness thj nearly place, overflow ing the The V m AMOira THE INDIAN? 185 on the south hank of the river, by the course of the rtver 375 miles higher up, at a beautiful prai- rie, which has a clear lake of good water in the middle of it, surrounded by a pleasant and fertile country, which had been the residence of their ancestors from time immemorial. They have a traditionary tale which not only the Caddos, but half a dozen other smaller nations be- Neve in, who claim the honour of being descend- ants of the same family : they say when all the world was drowned by a flood that inundated the whole country, the great spirit placed on an emi- nence, near this lake, one family of Caddoques, who alone were saved ; from that family all the Indians originated. The French* for many years before I^ouisiana was transferred to Spain, had, at this place, a fort .anpo: Some ye« ^^ AMONG THE INDIANS. ]89 other in the greatest harmony: have the same manners, customs and attachments. ...,,. ,^,.,v V ADAIZE. ■'■' '-i '■ ' ■ ■ i.-; -i . . *• ■■■-.' They live ahout forty miles from Natchitochesi, below the Yattassees, on a lake called LacMacdon, which communicates with the division of Red River that passes by Bayau Pierre. They live at or near where their ancestors have I'pTd from time immemorial. They being the nearest nation to the old Spanish fort» or Mission of Adaize, that place was named after them^ being about twenty miles from them, to the south. There are now but twenty men of them remaining, but more women. Their language differs from all otliers, and is so difficult to speak or understand, tliiat na nation can speak ten words of it ; but they aU speak Caddo» and most of them French, to whom they were always attached, and join them against the Natchez Indians. After the massacre of Nat- chez, in 1798, while the Spaniards occupied the post of Adaize, their priests took muci '^^ins to proselyte these Indians to the Roman Catiiolic religion^ but, I am informed^, were totally unsuc- 1 '••'I cessful. iA^'fiiyiriijif ALICHE, {commonly pronounced Eyeish,) \ They liV-e near Nacogdoches, but arc aliu^st extinct, as a nation, not being more than, tweaty- five souls of them reinainiag : four yeaais ago the small-poK desti'oyed the; greater port of them. Some years since they were a consMlerable natioa 1'^ ,i • • # 190 = NE^ travels' ' and lived on a bayau which bears their nam^, which the road from Natciiiio^l* to Nacogdoches ^crosses, about twelve milts west of Sabine River, on which a few French and American families are settled. Their native language is spoken by no other nation, but they speak and understand Cad- do, with whom tliey are in amity, often visiting one another. ^/r , -M KEYES, OR KEYCHIES. They live on the east bank of Trinity river, a small distance above where the road from Natchi- toches to St. Antoine crosses it. There are of them sixty men : have their peculiar native lan- guage, but mostly now speak Gaddo; intermarry with them, and live together in much harmony, formerly having lived near them, on the head wa- ters of the Sabine. They plant corn, and some other vegetables. u: :.-^7/ . f^ vn * -^^INIES, OR TACHIES. ' From the latter name the name of the province of Tachus or Taxus is derived. The Inies live about twenty-five miles west of Natchitoches, on a smaller river, a branch of Sabine, called the Naches. They are, like all their neighbours, di- minishing; but have now eighty men. Their an- cestors, for a long time, lived where they now do. Their language is the same as that of the Caddos, v^itb whom they are in great amity. These In- dians have a good character, live on excellent land, and raise corn to self. - > t^. ., «, -^^lu.-z. The about same ni live on have tl ments. TlIEt miles tc 100 men very lar make g( from all < able, quii ibr their Hit '*>,:' ; Their sidence Rouge, a ches, but a season of fi3J|, 03 are the la the^r coui no p^rt o goodness ft languag( -i¥ d. AMONG THE INDIANS. 191 NAEEDACHES. They live on the west side of the same river, about fifteen miles above them ; have about the same number of men ; speak the same language ; live on the best of land ; raise corn in plenty ; have the same manners, customs, and attach- ments. •i.*. ^1 J;'. ■-V t'..l'V'i' BEDIES. >i They are on the Trinity river, about sixty miles to the southward of Nacogdoches ; have 100 men ; are good hunters for deer, which are very large, and plenty about them; plant, and make good crops of corn ; their language differs from all other, but they speak Caddo ; are a peace- able, quiet people, and have an excellent character fbr their honesty and punctuality. > J 'v?- i^j:rii>ffiiu -; : I 'Oil 4 in 1912 WW TRATEIS of communication by dumb signs, which they all understand; number about eighty men. Thirty or forty years ago, the Spaniards had a mission here, but broke it up, or moved it to Nacogdo- ches. They tallc of resettling it, and speak in the highest terms of the country. MAYES. They live on a large creek called St. Gabriel, on the bay of St. Bernard, near the mouth of Gua- daloupe river: are estimated at 300 men; never at peace with the Spaniards, towards whom they are said to possess a fixed hatred, but profess great friendship for the French, to whom they have been strongly attached since Mons. de Salle landed in tl)eir neighbourhood. The place where there is a talk of tlie Spaniards opening a new port, and making a settlement, is near them ; where the par- ty, with the governor of St. Antoine, who were there last fall to examine it, say they found the re- mains of a French block house ; some of the can- non now at Labahie are said to have been brought from that place, and known by the engravings now to be seen on them. * The French speak htghly of these Indians, for their extreme kindness and hospitality to all Frenchmen who have been amongst them: have a language of their own, but speak Attakapa, which is the language of their neighbours the Caran- kouas ; they have likewise a way of conversing by signs. The ofSt. 1 in breac on one i taiu of I afford in smoke h ceived a are said From th my subj thrown c them in fond of c sistence c disagreea able enen them, an Spaniards them a di treated ki his party said to b able to est rate infor well infor guage; ar and, I prej standing ture is evei AMONG THE INDIANS. 193* : CARANKOUAS. Thet live pn an island, or peninsula, in the bay of St. Bernard, in length about ten miles, and dve in breadth ; the soil is extremely rich and pleasant ; on one side of which there is a high bluiF, or moun- tain of coal, which has been on fire for many years, affording always a light at night, and a strong thick smoke by day, by which vessels are sometimes de- ceived and lost on the shoaly coast, which shoals are said to extend nearly out of sight of land. From this burning coal, there is emitted a gum- my substance the Spaniards call chetOf which is thrown on the shore by the surf, and collected by them in considerable quantities, which they are fond of chewing ; it has the appearance and con* sistence of pitch, of a strong, aromatic, and not disagreeable smell. These Indians are irreconcile- able enemies to the Spaniards, always at war with them, and kill them whenever they can. The Spaniards call them cannibals, but the French give them a different character, who have always been treated kindly by them since Mons. de Salle and his party were in their neighbourhood. They are said to be 500 men strong, but 1 have not been able to estimate their numbers from any very accu' rate information ; in a short time I expect to be well informed. They speak the Attakapo lan- guage ; are friendly and kind to all other Indians^ and, I presume^ are much Hke all others, notwith- standing what the Spaniards say of them, for na- ture is every where the same. A 1§4 NEW TRAVELS .;^ Last summer an old Spaniard came to me from Lahahie, a journey of about 500 miles, to liave a barbed arrow taken out of his shoulder, that one of these Indians had shot in it. I found it under his shoulder-blade, near nine inches, and had to cut a new place to get at the point of it, in order to get it out the contrary way from that in which it had entered ; it was made of a piece of an iron hoop, with wings like a fluke and an inche. iti^OV if- GANGES. ;«o',*L;.r^ •'•• ^ ujrjXM ■.kfX?''t1:^ They are a very numerous nation, consistmg of a great many different tribes, occupying differ- ent parts of the country, from the bay of St. Ber- nard, cross river Grand, towards La Vera Gruz. They are not friendly to the Spaniards, and gene- rally kill them when they have an opportunitj'. They are attached to the French ; are good hun- ters, principally using the bow. They are very particular in their dress, which is made of neatly dressed leather ; the women wear a long loose robe, resembling that of a Franciscan friar; no- thing but their heads and feet are to be seen. The dress of the men consists of straight leather leg- gings, resembling pantaloons, and a leather hunt- ing shirt, or frock. No estimate can be made of their number. Thirty or forty years ago the Spaniards used to make slaves of them when they could take them ; a considerable number of them were brought to Nachitoches and sold to the French inhabitants at forty or fifty dollars a head, and a number of them are st twenty Spain I and tl pa ted ; been si ning, J affairs, came re now, g have a understf in amit^ tans. As th claim th particula alternate] Trinity, In their tans, bul ber of nl hunters ; have the and eneml in formed I from thei and tougj wild fruil and excel leg- ed to hemi ht to nts at •them AMONG THE INDIANS. 195 are still living here, but are now free. About twenty years ago an order came from the king of Spain that no more Indians should be made slaves, and those that were enslaved sliould be emanci- pated ; after which some of the women who had been servants in good families, and taught spin- ning, sewing, &c., as well as managing household affairs, married maitiffs of the country, and be- came respectable, well beijaved women, and have now, growing up, decent faniHics of chiUiren ; have a language peculiar to themselves, and are understood, by signs, by all others. They are in amity with all other Ilidians except the Hie- tans. ■'.' t- TANKAWAYS, OR TANKS, As the French call them, have no land, nor claim the exclusive right to any, nor have any particular place of abode, but are always moving, alternately occupying the country watered by the Trinity, Braces, and Colerado, towards St. a F^. In their dress, they resemble the Cancers and Hie- tans, but all in one horde or tribe. Their num- ber of men is estimated at about gOO; are good hunters; kill buffalo and deer with the bow; have the best breed of horses ; are alternately friends and enemies of the Spaniards. An old trader lately' informed me, that he had received 5000 d<"er skins from them in one year, exclusive of tallow, rugs, and tongues. They plant nothing, but live upon wild fruits and flesh : are strong, athletic people, and excellent horsemen. e Q -. «• - :<■ ■ »=?■ ijii I ■■,..■ 196 NEW TRAVELS . TAWAKENOES, OR THREE CANES, They are called by both names indifferently; live on the west side of the Braces, but are often, fbr some months at a time, lower down than their usual place of residence, in the great prairie at the Tortuga, or Turtle, so called from its being a hill in the prairie, which, at a distance, appears in the ^orm of a turtle, upon which there arc some remarkable springs of water. Their usual residence is about 200 miles to the westward of Nacogdoches, towards St. a F6. They are esti- mated at 200 men : are good hunters ; have guns, but hunt principally with the bow : are supplied with goods from Nacogdoches, and pay for them in rugs, tongues, tallow, and skins. They speak the same language as the Panis, orTowiaches, and pretend to have descended from the same ancestors. . «t- -y r^ .* PANIS, OR TOWIACIIES. " TuE French call them Panis, and the Spaniards Towiaches ; the latter is the proper Indian name« They live on the south side of Red river, by the course of the river, upwards of 800 miles above Natchitoches, and by land, by the nearest path, is estimated at about 340. They have two towns near together ; the lower town, where their chief lives, is called Niteheta, the other is called Towaahach. They call their present chief the Great Bear. They are at war with the Spaniards, but friendly to* those French and American hun- ters who have lately been among th^m. They are likewis vation. the COD grass, skirts and ere They more c< they wa plus th( falo, ruj cut rout) state of break, h mats, in: who, as want it. cut as Hi a certain They hav nition; \ hunt wit buffalo ; plenty as their hou wolves, ai in their < well as t times con various c naked, ar «n)all f]a|j AMONG THE INDIANS 197 likewise at war with the Osages, as are every other lation. For many hundreds of miles round them, the country is rich prairie, covered with luxuriant grass, wiiich is green summer and winter, with skirts of wood on the river bank, by the springs and creeks. They have many horses and mules. They raise more corn, pumpkins, beans and tobacco, than they want fur their own consumption; the sur- plus they exchange with the Hietans for buf- falo, rugs, horses, and mules. The pumpkins they cut round in their shreads, and when it is in a state of dryness, that it is so tough it will not break, hut bend, they plait and work it into large mats, in which state they sell it to the Hietans^ who, as they travel, cut off and eat it as they want it. Their tobacco they manufacture and cut as fine as tea, which is put in leather hags of a certain size, and is likewise an article of trade. They have but few guns, and very little ammu- nition ; what they have they keep for war, and hunt with the bow. Their meat is principally buffalo ; seldom kill a deer, though they are so plenty as to come into their villages, and about their houses, like a domestic animal. Elk, bear, wolves, antelopes, and w|ld hogs, are likewise plenty in their country, and white rabbits, or hares, as well as the common rabbit : white bears some- times come down amongst them, and wolves of various colours. The men generally go entirely naked, and the women nearly so> only wearing a small flap of a piece of a skin. They have a ''■ W;;' V- % . 108 NEW TRAVELS ' 'number of Spaniards among them, of fair com- plexion, taken from the settlement of St. a F6, •when they were children, who Hve si% they do, anrl have no knowledge of where they came from. . Their lanp;uage differs from that of any other , nation, the Tawakcnoes excepted. Their present ' number of men is estimated at about 400. A ' great number of them, four years ago, were swept * off by the small-pox. HIETANS, OR COMANCHES, .; .: Who are likewise called by both nan\es, have no fixed place of residence; have neither towns * nor villages; divided into so many different . hordes or tribes, that they have scarcely any - knowledge of one another. No estimate of their numbers can well be made. They never remain in the same place more than a few days, but fol- .-- low the buffalo, the flesh of which is their prin- ' cipal food. Some of tliem occasionally purchase of the Panis, corn, beans, and pumpkins ; but they are so numerous, any quantity of these arti- cles the Panis are able to supply them with, must >'f make but a small proportion of their food. They have tents made of neatly drressed skins, fashioned in the form of a cone, sufficiently roomy for a family of ten or twelve persons; those of the chiefs will contain occasionally ^0 or 60 persons. * When they stop, their tents are pitched in very exact order, so as to form regular streets and squares, which in a few minutes haVe the appear- ance of a town, raised, as it were, by enchant- ment, their t signal mules j other t red ce horses keep tl every t on acc( up, th are goo which tomed are ren times ci amongs do>^Q t cither m which nerally ting de and St. and civ been an and the lived up It is the bloc wise eat the gall uncomn % AM()!CO THE INDIANS. 199 ment. Aiul they are eciii.illy dexterous in striking their tents and prt parini^ for a march, wlien the signal is given , to every tciit two horses or mules are allotted, one to carry the tent, and an- other the poles or sticks, which are neatly made of red cedar ; they all travel on horsehack. Their horses they never turn loose to graze, but always keep them tied with a long cabras or halter ; and every two or three days they are obliged to move on account of all the grass near them being eaten up, they have such numbers of horses. They are good horsemen and have good horses, most of which are bred by themselves ; and being accus- tomed when very young to be handled, they are remarkably docile and gentle. They some- times catch wild horses, whicli are every where amongst them in immense droves. They hunt doM^Q the buffalo on horseback, and kill them cither with the bow, or a sharp stick like a spear, which they carry in their hands. They are ge- nerally at war with the Spaniards, often commit- ting depredations upon the inhabitants of St. a le and St. Antoine; but have always b** .friendly and civil to any French or Americans who have been among them. They are strong and athletic, and the elderly men as fat as though they had lived upon American Ibeef and porter. It is said, the man \who kills a buffalo, catches the blood and drinks it while warm; they like- wise eat the liver raw, before it is cold, and use the gall by way of sauce. They are, for savages, uncommonly clean in their persons. The dress '1 »i i'W \ ** *» 200 NEW TRAVELS of the women is a long loose robe, that reaches from their chin to the ground, tied round with a fancy sash or girdle, all made of neatly dressed leather, on which they paint figures of different colours and significations : the dress of the men consists of close leather pantaloons, and a hunt- ing shirt, or frock of the same. They never remain long enough in the same place to plant any thing : the small Cayenne pepper grows spont|neously in the country, with which, and some wild lierbs and fruits, particularly a bean that grows in great plenty on a small tree resembling a willow, called nmsketo ; the women cook their buffalo beef in a manner that would be grateful to an American squire. They alternately occupy the immense space of country from the Trinity and Braces, crossing the Red river, to the heads of Arkansa and Missouri, to the river Grand, and beyond it, about St. a Fd, and over the dividing ridge on the waters of the Western ocean, where they say they have seen large peroques, with masts to them ; in describing which, they make a drawing of a ship, M'ith all its sails and rigging j and they describe a place where they have seen vessels ascending a river, over which was a draw^bridge that opened to give them a passage. Their native language of sounds differs from the language of any other na- tion, and none can either speak or understand it; but they have a language by signs, that all Indians understand, and by which they converse much ^mong themselves. They have a numbev of ¥f^ ■» ; a of AMONG THE INDIANS. SOI Spanish wn and women among them, who are slaves^ wit^ch they made prisoners when young. An elderly gentleman, now living at Natchito- ches, who formerly carried on a trade with the Hietans, a few years ago related to me the follow- ing story : About SO years since a party of these Indians passed over the Grand river to Chewawa, the re- sidence of Ijjie governor-general of what is culled the Five Internal Provinces; lay in ambush for an opportunity, and made prisoner the governor's daughter, a young lady going in her coach to mass, and brought her off. The governor sent a message to him (my informant) with a thousand dollars, for the purpose of recovering his daugh- ter. He immediately dispatched a confidential trader, then in his employ, with the amount of the 1000 dollars in merchandise, who repaired to tiie nation, found her, and purchased her ransom : but, to his great surpise, she refused to reiura with him to her father, and sent by him the fol- lowing message: That the Indians had disfi^rur^'d her face by tattooing it, according to their fancy and ideas of beauty, and a young man of them had taken her for his wife, by whom she believed herself pregnant ; that she had become reconciled to their mode of life, and was well treated by her husband ; and that she should be more un- happy by returning to her father, under these cir-r^ cumstances, than by remaining where she was. Which message was conveyed to her father, whq rewarded the trader by a present of 300 dollars 'tij:; ';•**' •^ 4\- ' ' ■rm'fm ■V " Wi i r ■■ jill •«-.. 20« NEW TRAVELS more for his trouble arid fidelity. His daughter is now living with her Indian husband, in the na- tion, by whom she has three children. .^i . , NATCHITOCHES, ^ .:. : Formerly lived where the town of Natchito- ches is now situated, which took its name from them. An elderly French gentleman lately told me, he remembered when they werefe600 strong. I believe it is now 98 years since the French first established themselves at Natchitoch ; ever since these Indians have been their steady and faithful friends. After the massacre of the French inha- bitants of Natchez, by the Natchez Indians, in 1728, those Indians fled from the French, after being reinforced, and came up Red river, and encamped about 6 miles below the town of Nat- chitoches, near the river, by the side of a small lake of clear water, and erected a mound of con- siderable size, where it now remains. Monsieur St. Dennie, a French Canadian, was then com- mandant at Natchitoches ; the Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a brave man. St. Dennie, with a few French sol- diers, and what militia he could muster, joined by the Natchitoches Indians, attacked the Nat- chez in their camp, early in the morning; they defended themselves desperately for 6 hours, but were at length totally defeated by St. Dennie, and those of them that were not killed in battle, were driven into the lake, where the last of them perished, and the Natchez, as a nation, became •?j^- AMONG THE INDIANS. 205 extinct. The lake is now called by no other name than the Natchez lake. There are now remain- ing of the Natchitoches but j2 men and 19 wo- men, who live in a village about 25 miles by Jand above the town, which bears their name, near a lake, called by the French Lac dc Muire, Their original language is the same as the Yattas- see, but speak Caddo, and most of them French. The French inhabitants have great respect for this nation, and a number of very decent families have a mixture of their blood in them. They claim but a small tract of land, on which they live, and I .im. informed, have the same rights to it from goveritmei;t, that other inhabitants in their neighi)ourhood have. They are gradually wasting away ; the small-pox has been "their great destroyer. Thisy still preserve their Indian dress and habits; raise corn and those vegetables common in their neighbourhood. ^.- '• ■ ■ ■ ■ j '/ . ,_ ,^ ''':'^""r .; BOLUXAS, : Are emigrants from near Pensacola. Thev came to Re4 river about 42 years ago, with some French families, who left that country about the time Pensacola was taken possession of by the English. They were then a considerably nume- rous tribe, and have generally embraced the Roman Catholic religion, and were ever highly esteemed by the French. They settled first at Avoyall, then moved higher up to Rapide Bayau, and from thence to the mouth of Rigula de Bon- dieu, a division of Red river, about 40 miles be- lt "fe: g04 NEW TRAVELS low Natcbitoch, where tliey now live, and are re- duced to about 30 in number. Their native lan- guage is peculiar to themselves, but they speak Mo- bilian, which is spoken by all the Indians from the east side of the Mississippi. They are an honest, harmless, and friendly people. > APPALACHES. They are likewise emigrants from West Florida, from off the river whose name they bear; came over to Red river about the same time the Bo- luxas did, and have, ever since, lived on the river, above Bayau Ilapide. No nation has been more highly esteemed by the French inhabitants; no complaints against them are ever heard ; there are- only 14 men remaining; have their own language, but speak French and Mobilian. ALLIBAMIS. They are likewise from West Florida, off the Allibami river, and came to Red river about the same time as the Boluxas and Appalaches. Part of them have lived on Red river, about \6 miles above the Bayau Rapide, till last year, when most of this party, of about SO men, went up Red river, and have settled themselves near the Caddoques, where, I am informed, they last year had a goad crop of corn. The Caddos are friendly to them, and have no objection to their settling there. They speak the Creek and Chactaw lan- guages, ^nd Mobilii^u ; most of them French, and some of them English. * up I the fear dly ling AMONG THE INDIANS. £05 There is another party of them, whose village is on a small creek, in Appelousa district, about 30 miles north-west from the the church of Appe- lousa. They consist of about 40 rien. They have lived at the same place ever since they came from Florida; are said to be increasing a httle in numbers, for a few years past. Tiiey raise corn, have horses, hogs, and cattle, and are harmless, quiet people. CONCHATTAS. They are almost the same people as the Alliba- mis, but came over only ten years ago ; first lived onBayau Chico, in Appelousa district; but, four years ago, moved to the river Sabine, settled themselves on the east hank, where they now live, in nearly a south direction from Natchitoch, and distant about 80 miles. They call their number of men about 160 ; but say, if they were all to- gether, they would amount to 200. Several fa- riiili^i of them live in detached settlements. They are good hunters. Game is plenty. A few days ago, a small party of them were here, consisting of 15 persons, men, women, and children, who were on their return from a bear hunt up the Sabine. They told me they had killed 118 ; but this year an uncommon number of bears have come down. One man alone, on the Sabine, during the summer and fall hunting, killed 400 deer, sold his skins at 40 dollars a hundred. The bears this year are not so fat as commonly ; they usually yield from eight to twelve gallons of oil, each of which never mm \ .M t S06 NEW TRAVELS sells for less than a dollar a gallon, and the skin a dollar more. No great quantity of the meat is saved. What the hunters do not use when out, they generally give to their dogs. The Conchat- tas are frieudly with all other Indians, and speak Avtll of their neighbours the Carankouas, who, tlity say, live nbout 80 miles south of them, on the bay, which, I believe, is the nearest point to the sea from Natchitoches. A few families of Chactaws have lately settled near them from Bay- au Boeut. The Conchattas speak Creek, which is their native language, and Chactaw, and several of them English, and cne or twa of them can read it a little. > ,• . . distric village Attaka numbe and Hi and liv( 80. 1 body; tants ; hogs. ' same. when th by the I ..■i '^ ^ ' "" ■ PACANAS. :' ; . -'-^. They are a small tribe of about 30 men, who live on the Quelqueshoe river, which falls into the bay between Attakapi and Sabine, which heads in a prairie called Cooko Prairie, about 40 miles south-west of Natchitoches. These people are likewise emigrants from West Florida^ about 40 years ago. Their village is about 50 miles south- east of the Conchattas ; they are said to be in- creasing a little in number; to be quiet, peaceable, and friendly people. Their own language differs from any other, but they spe^k rv';obilian. '' "' ATTAKAPAS. ^ This word, I am informed, when translated V into English, means Man-eater, but is no more ap- plicable to them than to any other Indians. The It IS language are abori Their viJ palousa language Attakapa cattle an These nica, ab side; Iiv( ceed 25 n themselv occasiona i t Is in liles are t40 ith- i li- able, iffevs slated re ap- The ' AMONG THE INDIANS. J07 - «■ , , - i: '"'-■ .-■•■. .. ■ ■ . ;^, J.. :■■•' If APPALOUSA. Z' It is said the word Appalousa, in the Indian language, means Black head, or Black skull. They are aborigines of the district called by their name. Their village is about 15 miles west from the Ap- palousa church ; have about 45 men. Their native language differs from nil other ; they understand Attakapa and speak French ; plant corn ; have cattle and hogs. -^ .' TUNICAS. """'- These people lived formerly on the Bayau Tu- nica, above Point Coupee, on the Mississippi, east side; live now at Avoyall; do not at present ex- ceed 25 men. Their native language is peculiar to themselves, but they speak Mobilian ; are employed, occasionally, by the inhabitants as boatmen, &c. d Mil' 208 NEW TRAVELS *■ are in amity with all othor people, and gradually diminisljing in numbers. ' PASCAGOLAS. These people live in a small village on Red river, about 60 miles below Natchitoches ; are emigrants from Pasragola river, in West Florida ; 25 men only of them remaining; speak Mobilian, but have a language peculiar to themselves; most of them speak and understand French. They raise good crops of corn, and garden vegetables ; have cattle, horses, and poultry plenty. ' ' TENISAWS. . They are likewise emigrants from the Tenesaw river, that falls into the bay of MobilCj have resided on Red river about 40 years ; are reduced to about «5 men. Their village is within one mile of the Pascagolas, on the opposite side ; but they have lately sold their land, and have, or are about moving to Bayau Bceuf, about 25 miles south from where they lately lived. All speak French and Mobilian, and live much like their neighbours th'* Pescagolas. CHACTOOS. fliey live on Bayau Boeuf, about 10 miles to the southward of Bayau Rapide, on Red river, towards Appalousa ; a small, honest people ; are aborigines of the country where they live; of men about 30; diminishing: have their own pe- culiar \ claim X\V tity an ..^''' ^ift-. oklGIN ■a > OF THE ni AMERICAN INDIAN POPULATION. , < ;r' ;'«4 '■■;;, "\ f ■ " THli means,*' says an ingenious traveller, " by which America received its first inhabitants, have, since the time of its discovery by the Europeans, been the subject of numberless disquisitions. Were I to endeavour to collect the different opi- nions and reasonings of the various writers that have taken up the pen in defence of their conjec- tures, the enumeration would much exceed the bounds I have prescribed to myself, and oblige me to be less explicit on points of greater moment. From the obscurity in which this, debate is enve- loped, through the total disuse of letters an^.ong every nation of Indians on this extensive continent, and the uncertainty of oral tradition at the dis* tance of so many ages, I fear, that even after the most minute investigation, we shall not be able to settle it with any great degree of certainty. And this apprehension will receive addition'.! force, when it is considered that the diversity of lan- guage, which is apparently distinct between most of the Indians, tends to ascertain tliat tljis popu- V 2 V-J- *<• 81t NEW TRAVELS lation was not eflfected from one particular coun- try, but from several neighbouring ones, and completed at different peribds. Most of the his- torians, or travellers that have treated on tlie American Aborigines, disagree in their sentimenu relative to them. Many of the ancients are sup- posed to have known that this quarter of the globe not only existed, but also that it was inhabited. Plato in his Timaus has asserled, that beyond the island which he calls Atalantis, and which, ac- cording to his description, was situated in the Western Ocean, there were a great number of other islands, and behind those a vast continent. Oviedo, a celebrated Spanish author, of a much later date, has made no scruple to affirm, that the Antilles are the famous Hesperides, so often men- tioned by the poets ; which are at length restored to the kings of Spain, the descendants of king Hesperus, who lived upwatds of three thousand years ago, and from whom these islands received their name. Two other Spaniards, the one Father Gregorio Garcia, a Dominican; the other Father Joseph De Acosta, a Jesuit, have written on the origin of the Americans. The former, who had been employed in the missions of Mexico and Peru, endeavoured to prove from the traditions of the Mexicans, Peruvians, and others which he received on the spot, and from the variety of characters, customs, languages and religion observed in the different countries of the New World, that dif- ferent nations had contributed to the peopling of { it. The latter^ Father De Acosta, in his examina- tion of Americ nent, d\ suppose thor has eludes, t and Eun regions ( Magellar as have a brews. , troverted of many < ject. Til is, that Ai thians or ' these peof Noah 8 gi niost non blance, n( nances, b| of living, than to ai who had passed int) over a vasf that Greej 964; and that the Ci Mexico inf cording tol who dispo/ ¥: AMOKG THE INDIANS. 91.1 tion of the means by which the first Indians of America might have found a passage to that conti- nent, discredits the conclusions of those who have supposed it to be by sea, because no ancient au- thor has made mention of the compass; and con- cludes, that it must be either by the north of Asia and Europe, which adjoin to each other, or by those regions that lie to the southward of the Straits of Magellan He also rejects the assertions of such as have advanced that it was peopled by the He- brews. John de Laet, a Flemish writer, has con- troverted the opinions of these Spanish fathers, and of many others who have written on the same sub- ject. The hypothesis he endeavours to establish, is, that America was certainly peopled by the Scy- thians or Tartars, and that the transmigration of these people happened soon after the dispersion of Noah's grandsons. He undertakes to shew, that most northern Americans have a greater resem- blance, not only in the features of their counte- nances, but also in their complexion and manner of living, to the Scythians, Tartars and Samoeides, than to any other nations. In answer to Grotius, who had asserted that some of the Nonvegians passed into America by way of Greenland, and over a vast continent, he says, that it is well known that Greenland was not discovered till the year 964 ; and both Gomera and Herrera informs us,' that the Chichimeques w^r^ settled on the Lake of Mexico in 721. He adds, that ...ese savages, ac- cording to the uniform tradition of the Mexicans who dispossessed them, came from the country W % :.■ r ^ 214 NEW TRAVELS since called New Mexico, and from the neighbour- hood of California; consequently Nprth Anierica must havp been inhabited many ages before it could receive any inhabitants from Norway, by way of Greenland. It '^ no less certain, he ob- serves, that the real Mexicans founded their em- pire in 902, after haying subdued the Chichi- meques, the Otomias, and other barbarous nations, who had taken possession of the country round tlie Lake qf Mexico, and e^ch of whom spoke a lan- guage pecnliar to itself. The real Mexicans are like\vise supposed to come from some of the countries that lie near Cahfornia, and that they performed their journey for the most part by land ; of course they covdd not pome from Norway. De L^et further adds, that thPV»gh some of the in- habitants of North America may have entered, it from the no^th-we^t, yet, as jt is related by Pliny, and some other writers, tha^ pn many of the islands near the western coast of Afi'ica, particu- larly on the Canaries, some ancient edifices were seen, it is highly probable from their bping now deserted, that the inhabitants may have passed over to America; the passage being neither long nor difficult. This migration, according to the calculation pf those authors, must have happened more than two thousand years ago, at a time when the Spaniards were much troubled by the Cartha- ginians; from whom having obtained a know- ledge of navigation, and the construction of ships, they might have retired to the Antilles, by the way of the western isles, wliich were exactly half w>y p Britair prpper proof. Hjstorj in ^he doe, 01 b^ing ( betweei ther, fit them w went in Ireland but desi hk peop new lev this col( "The thiaqs, 1 9 paralle them to dering 1 customs^ cumstan though yet the country by the fected ?imilar 1 tipns, ar iti§: tp tl AMONG THf lUpIANS. 215 W^y pp their vpyagp. He thinks also that Great ^rit^in, Ireland, an4 the Qrcades were extremely proper to admit of a sJmiUr conjecture. As a proof, he inserts the following passage from the History of Wales, written hy Pr. David Powell, in ^he ye^r 1170 :-r-This historian says, that Ma- doe, one of the sons pf Prince Owen Gwynnitb, being disgusted at the civil wars which broke out between his brothers, after the death of tiieir fa- ther, fitted out several vessels, and havrng provided them with every thing necessary for along voyage, went in quest of new lands to the westward of Ireland ; there he discovered very fertile countries, but destitute of inhabitants ; when landing part of his people, he returned to Britain, where be (4hc:d new levies, and afterwards transported them to this colony. .* .; t. .-.^v^. **The Flemish author then returps to the Syc- thidi)s, between whom and the Americans he draws ^ parallel. He observes that several nations of them to the north of the Caspian Sea, led a wan- dering hfe; which, fts well as many other of their customs, and way of living, agrees in many cir- cumstances with the Indians of America And though the resemblances are not absolutely perfect, yet the emigrants, even before they left their own country, differed from each other, and went nut by the same name. Their change of abode ef- fected what remained. He further says, that a $imii^r likeness exists between several American ua- tipns, and the Samceides, who are settled, accord in^ t9 the Russian accounts, on the gre^t Uiver ■mA' t»l # i"*- 215 NEW TRAVELS Oby. And it is more natural, continues he, to suppose that Colonies of these nations passed over to America by crossing the icy sea on their sledges, than for the Norwegians to travel all the way Gro- tius has marked out for them. This writer makes many other remarks that are equally sensible, and which appear to be just; but he intermixes with these some that are not so well founded. Emanuel de Moraez, a Portuguese, in his history of Brazil, asserts that America has been wholly peopled by the Carthaginians and Israelites. He brings as a proof of this assertion the discoveries the former are known to have made at a great distance beyond the coast of Africa. The progress of which be- ing put a stop to by the senate of Carthage, those who happened to be then in the newly discovered countries, being cut off from all communication wrth their countrymen, and destitute of many ne- cessaries of life, fell into a state of barbarism. As to the Israelites, this author thinks that nothing but circumcision is wanted in order to constitute a perfect resemblance between them and the Bra- zilians. George De Hornn, a learned Dutchman, has likewise written on this subject He sets out with declaring, that he does not believe it possible America could have been peopled before the flood, considering the short space of time which elapsed between the creation of the world and that me- morable event. In the next place he lays it down as a principle, that after the deluge, men and other terrestrial animals penetrated into that country l>oth by sea and by land; aoroe through accident. AMONG THE INDIANS. g]7 and some from a formed design. That birds got thither by flight; which they were enabled to do by resting on the rocks and islands that are scat- tered about the ocean. He further observes, that wild beasts may have found a free passage by land ; and that if we do not meet with horses or cattle (to which he might li e added elephants, camels, rhinoceros, and bmsts of many other kinds) it is because those nations that j)assed thither, were either not acquai.ited with their use, or had no con- venience to support them. Having totally excluded many nations that others have admitted as the pro- bable first settlers of America, for which he gives substantial reasons, he supposes that it began to be peopled by the north ; and maintains the pri- mitive colonies spread themselves by the means of the isthmus of Panama, through the whole ex- tent of the continent. He believes that the first founders of the Indian colonies were Scythians. That the Phoenicians and Carthaginians after- wards got footing in America across the Atlantic Ocean, and the Chinese by way of the Pacific, and that other nations might from time to time have landed there by one or other of these ways, or might possibly have been thrown on the coast by tempests : since, through the whole extent of thai continent, both in its northern and southern; parts, we meet with undoubted marks of a mixture of the northern nations, with those who have come from other places. And lastly, that some Jews and Christians might have been carried there by such like events, but that this must have hap- m I'l: .¥> :: 9 218 NEW TRAVELS pened at a time when the whole of the new world was already ppppled. After all, he acknowledges that great difficulties attend the determination of the question. These, he says, are occasioned ii^ the first place by the imperfect knowledge we have of the extremities of the globe, towards the north and south pole; and the next place to the havoc which the Spaniards, the first discoverers of the new world, made among its most ancient monu- ments ; as witness the great double road betwixt , Quito and Cuzco, an undertaking so stupendous, that even the most magnificent of those cj^eciited by the Komans cannot be compared to it. He supposes also another migration of the Phopnieians, than those already mentioned, to have takep place ; apd this was during a three year's voyage m^de by the Tyrj^in fleet in the the service of King Solo- mon. He asserts on the aythority of Josephus, that the port at which this epib^rkatipn was made, lay in the Mediterranean. The fleet, he adds, went in quest of elephant's teeth and peacocks tp the western coast of Africa, which jsTarsish; thep to Ophir for gold, which is Haite, or the island of Hispanioia ; in the latter opinion he is supported by Columbus, who, when he discovered th?it island, thought he could trace the furnaces in which the gold was 'refined. To these migra- tions which preceded the Christian asra, he adds many others of a later date from different nations, but these I have not time tp enumerate. For the same reason I am obliged to pass over numberless writers on this subject ; and shall con* AMONG THE INDIANS. 219 tent myself wjth only giving the sentiments of two or three more. The first of these is Pierre De Charlevoix, a Frenclmian, who, in his journal of a voyage to North America, made so lately as the year 17^0, has recapitulated the opinions of a va- riety of authors on this head, to which he has subjoined his own conjectures: hut the latter can- not without some difficulty be extracted, as they are so interwoven with the passages he has quoted, that it requires much attention to discriminate them. He seems to allow that America might have received its first inhabitants, from Tartary and Hyrcania. This he confirms, by observing, that the lions and tigers which are found in the former, must have come from those countries, and whose passage serves for a proof that the two hemispheres join to the northward of Asia. He then draws a corroboration of this argument, from a story he says he has often heard related by Father Grollon, a French Jesuit, as an undoubted matter of fact. This Father, after having laboured some time in the missions of New France, passed over to those of China. One day as he was travelling in Tar- tary, he met a Huron woman whom he had for- merly known in Canada. He asked her b}' what adventure she had l)een carried into a country so distant from her own. She made answer, that hav- ing been taken in war, she had been conducted from nation to nation, till she had reached the place at which slie then was. Monsieur Charle- » voijf, says further, that he had been assured ano- ther Jesuit, passing through Naniz, in his return riiP'ii 'it (' If^'M l-vl ■Mil ■!, m $20 NEW TRAVELS from China, had related much such another affair of a Spanish woman from Florida. She also had been taken by certain Indians, and given to those of a more distant country ; and by these again to another nation, till having thus been successively passed from country to country, and travelled through regions extremely cold, she at last found herself in Tartary. Here she had married a Tar- tar, who had attended the conquerors in China, where she was then settled. He acknowledges as an allay to the probability of these stories, that those who had sailed farthest to the eastward of Asia, by pursuing the coast of Jesso, or Kam- schatka, have pretended that they had perceived the extremity of this continent; and from thence have concluded vhat there could not possibly be any communication by land. But he adds that Francis Guella, a Spaniard, is said to have asserted^ that this separation is no more than a strait, about one hundred miles over, and that some late voy- ages of the Japanese give grounds to think, that this strait is only a bay, above which there is a passage over land. He goes on to observe, that though there are few wild beasts to be met with in North America, except a kind of tiger without spots, which are found in the country of the Iro- quoise^ yet towards the tropics there are lions and real tigers, which, notwithstanding, might have come from Hyrcania and Tartary ; for as by ad- vancing gradually southward they met with cli- mates more agreeable to their natures, they have in time abandoned the northern countries. He AMONG TII£ INDIilNS. SSI quotes both Solinus and Pliny, to prove that the Scythian Anthropophagi once depopulated a great extent of country, as far as the promontory Tabin; and also an author of later date, Mark Pol, a Ve- netian, who, he says, tells us, that to the north- east of China and Tartary, there are vast unin- habited countries, which might be sufficient to confirm any conjectures concerning the retreat of a great number of Scythians into America. **To this he adds, that we find in the ancients the names of some of these nations. Pliny speaks of the Tabians; Solinus mentions the Apuleans, who had for neighbours the Massagetes, whom Pliny since assures us to have entirely disappeared. Ammianus Marcellinus expressly tells us, that the fear of the Anthropophagi obliged several of the inhabitants of those countries to take refuge else* where. From all these authorities Monsieur Char- levoix concludes, that there is at least room to conjecture that more than one nation in America had a Scythian or Tartarian original. He finishes his remarks on the authors he has quoted, by the following observations: ''it apj)ears to me that this controversy may be reduced to the two following articles; first, how the new world might have been peopled; and, secondly, by whom, and by what means it has been peopled. Nothing, he asserts, may be more easily answered than the first. America might have been peopled as the three other parts of the world have been. Many difficulties have been formed on this subject, which have been deemed insolvable, but whigh A; I i222 NEW travel! are far frorti beitig so. The inhabitants of both hemispheres are certainly the descendants of the same father; the common parent of mankind received an express command from Heaven to peo- ple tlie whole world, ?ind accordingly it has been peopled. To bring this about it was necessary to overcome all difficulties that lay in the way, and they have been got over. Were these difficulties greater with respect to peopling the exttemities of Asia, Africa, and Europe, or the transporting men into the islands which lie at a considerable distance from those continents, than to pass over into America? Certainly not. Navigation, which has arrived at so great perfection within these three or four centuries, might possibly have been more perfect in those early ages than at this day. Who can believe that Noah and his immediate descend- ants knew less of this art than we do? That the builder and pilot of the largest ship that ever wis, a ship that was formed to traverse an unbounded ocean, and had so many shoals and quicksands to " guard against, should be ignorant of, or should not have communicated to thoie of his descend- ants who survived him, and by whose means he was to execute the order of the Great Creatdr: 1 say, who can believe he should not have com- municated to them the art of sailing upon an ocean, which was not only more calm and pacific, but at the same time bbnfined within its ancient limits. Admitting this, hovv easy is it to pass, exclusive of the passage already described, by land from the coast of Africa to Brazil, from the »^ AM0N6 THE IJTDIAXS. 223 Canaries to the Westetn Islands, and from tliem to the Antilles? Prom the British Isles, or the coast of France, * r^^ewfoundland, the passage is neither long nor difficult; I might say as much of that from China to Japan; from Japan, or the Philipines, to the Isles Mariannes; and from thence to Mexico. There are islands at a considerable distance from the continent of Asia, where we have not been surprised to find inhabitants, wIjv then should we wonder to meet with people in America? Nor can it be imagined that the grand- sons of Noah, when they were obliged to separate, and spread themselves in conformity to the designs of God, over the whole earth, should find it abso- lutely impossible to people almost one half of it." I have been more copious in my extracts from this author than I intended, as his reasons appear to be solid, and many of his observations just. Frotn this encomium, however, I must exclude the stories he has introduced of the Huron and Floridan women, which I think I riiight venture to pronounce fabulous. I shall only add, to give my readers a more comprehensive view of Mon- sieur Charlevoix's dissertation, the method he proposes to come at the truth of what we are in search of. * ' ' ^' ** The only means by which this can be done, he says, is by comparing the language 6£ the Anrieri-i cafis with the different nations from whence we ftiight suppose they have peregrinated. If we compare the former with those words that are considered as primitives, it iftight possibly set usf t 'II 4 tS4 KEW TRAVELS Upon some liappy discovery. And this way of ascending to the original of nations, which is by far the least equivocal, is not so difficult as might be imagined. "We have had, and still have, tra- vellers and missionaries who have attained the lan- guages that are spoken in all the provinces of the new world ; it would only be necessary to make a collection of their grammars and vocabularies, and to collate them with the dead and living languages of the old world, that pass for originals, and ^he similarity migl\t easily be traced. " Even the different dialects, in spite of the alterations they have undergone, still retain enough of the mother tongue to furnish consicler- able lights. *' Any inquiry into the manners, customs, reli- gion, or traditions of the Americans, in order to discover by that means their origin, he thinks would prove fallacious. A disquisition of that kind, he observes, is only capable of producing a false light, more likely to dazzle, and to make us wander from the right part, than to lead us with certainty to the point proposed, v " Ancient traditions are effaced from the minds of such as either have not, or for several ages have been without those helps that are necessary to preserve them. And in this situation is full Que half of the world. New events, and a new arrangement of things, give rise to new traditions, which efface the former, and are themselves effaced in turn. After one or two centuries have passed, there uo longer remain any traces of the .* . us ids res Tull iew [ns,. Ives ive Ithe AMONG THE INDIANS. 225 first traditions; and thus we are involved in a state of uncertaintv. *' He concludes with the following remarks, among many others. Unforeseen accidents, tem- pests, and shipwrecks, have certainly contributed to people every habitable part of the world: and ought we to wonder after this, at perceiving cer- tain resemblances, both of persons and manners between nations that are most remote from each other, when we find such a difference between those that border on one another? As we are des- titute of historical monuments, there is nothing, I repeat it, but a knowledge of the primitive lan- guages that is capable of throwing any light upon Jhose clouds of impenetrable darkness. By this inquiry we should at least be satisfied, among that prodigious number of various nations inhabiting America, and differing so much in language from each other, which are those who make use of words totally and entirely different from those of the old world, and who, consequently, must be reckoned to have passed over to America in the earliest ages, and those, wlio, from the analogy of their lan- guage with such as are at present used in the three other parts of the globe, leave room to judge that their migration has been more recent, and which ought to be attributed to shipwrecks, or to some accident similar to those which have been spoken of in the course of l»iis treatise. '* I shall only add the opinion of one authov more, before I give my own sentiments on the subject, and that is of James Adair, Esq. who % .... , ^%' 1 '"i H'lG KEW thavkls » resided foity years among the Indians, and pub* lishcd tlie liistory of tlieni in the year 177*. Ih his learned and systematical history of those na* tions, inhabiting; the western parts of the most southern of tlie An\erican colonres, this gentle- man, without hesitation, pronounces that the Ame- rican Aborigines are descended from the Israel- ites, either whilst they were a maritime power, or soon after their general captivity. This descent he endeavours to prove from their religious rites, their civil and martial customs, their marriages, their funeral ceremonies, their raaniers, language, traditions, and from a variety of ot her particulars. ^»% /ind so complete is his conviction on this head, that he fancies he finds a perfect and indisput- able similitude in each. Through all these 1 have not time to follow him, and shall therefore only give a few extracts to show on what foundation he builds his canjectures, and what degree of credit he is entitled to on this point. He begins with observing, that though some have supposec} the Americans to be descended from the Chinese, yet neither their religion, laws, nor customs, agree in the least with those of the Chinese; which sufficiently proves that they are not of this linCr Besides, as our be»t »hips are now almost half a year in sailing for China^ [our author does not here recollect that this is from a high northern latitude, across the linCy and then back again greatly to the northward of it, and not directly athwart the Pacific Ocean, for only one hundred and eleven degrees] or from thence to Europe, it tiges AMONO THE INDrAN^ 827 Is very unlikely they should attempt such danger- ous discoveries, with their supposed small vessels, against rapid currents, and in dark and sickly Monsoons. He further remarks, that this is mure particularly improbable, as there is reason to !»e- lieve, that this nation was unacquainted with the use of the loadstone to direct their course. China, he says, is about eight thousand miles distant from the American continent, which is twice as tar us across the Atlantic Ocean. And we are not in- formed by any ancient writer of their maritime skill, or so much as any inclination that way, be- sides small coasting voyages. The winds blow likewise, with little variation from east to west • within the latitudes thirty and odd, north and south; and therefore these could not drive thern on the American coast, it lying directly contrary to such a course. Neither could persons, accord- ing to this writer's account, sail to America from the north by the way of Tartary, or ancient Scy- thia; that from its situation, never having been " or can be a maritime power; and it is utterly im- practicable, he says, for any to come to America by sea from that quarter. Besides, the remaining traces of their religious ceremonies and civil and martial customs are quite opposite to the like ves- tiges of the Old Scythians. Even in the moderate northern climates there is not to be seen the least trace of any ancient stately buildings, or of any thick settlements, as are said to remain in the less healthy regions of Peru and Mexico. And several of the Indian nations assure us, that they crossed 22S NEW TRAVELS the Mississippi before they made their present north- ern settlements ; which, connected with the former arguments, he concUides will sufficiently explode that weak opinion of the American Aborigines beini»' lineally descended from the Tartars or an- cient Scythians. Mr. Adair's reasons for supposing that the Ame- ricans derive their origin from the Jews are. First, because they are divided into tribes, and have chiefs over them as the Israelites had. Secondly, because, as by a strict permanent divine precept, the Hebrew nation were ordered to worship, at Jerusalem, Jehovah, the true and living God, so do the Indians, styling him Yohewah. The anci- ent Heathens, he adds, it is well known worship- ped a plurality of Gods, but the Indians pay their religious devoirs to the great beneficent supreme holy Spirit of Fire, who resides, as they think, above the clouds, and on earth abo with unpol. luted people. They pay no adoration to images, or to dead persons, neither to the celestial luminaries, to evil spirits, nor to any created beings whatever. Thirdly, because agretably to the theocracy or divine government of Israel, the Indians think the Deity to be tlie immediate head of their state. Fourliily, because, as the Jews believe in the mi- nistration of angels, the Indians also believe, that the higher regions are inhabited by good spirits. Fifthly, because the Indian language and dialects appear to have the very idiom and genius of the Ilcinew. Their words and sentences being: ex- pressive, concise, emphatical, sonorous, aad bold ; at d; AMONG THE INDIANS. 229 and often, both in letters, and signification, are synonimous with the Hebrew language. Sixthly, because they count their lime after the manner of the Hebr^s. Seventhly, because in cinifortnity to, or after the manner of the Jews, they have their prophets, high priests, and other religious orders. Eighthly, because their festivals, fasts^ and religious rites have a great resemblance to those of the Hebrews. Ninthly, because the Indians, before they go to war, have many prcparjitory ceie- monies of purification and fasting, like wliat is recorded of the Israelites. Tenth I v, because the same taste for ornaments, and the same kind are made use of by the Indians, as by the Hebrews. These and many other arguments of a similar na- ture, Mr. Adair brings in support of his favourite system; but I should imagine, that if the Indians are really derived from the Hebrews, among their religious ceremonies, on which he chiefly seems to build his hypothesis, the principal, that of circum- cision, would never have been laid aside, and its very remembrance obliterated. Thus numerous and diverse are the opinions of those who have hitherto written on this subject ! 1 shall not, however, either endeavour to reconcile them, or to point out the errors of each, but proceed to give my own sentiments on the origin of the Americans ; which are founded on conclusions drawn from the most rational arguments of the writers I have mention- ed, and from my Own observations ; the consis- tency of these 1 shall leave to the judgrrient of my readers. The better to introduce my conjectures ■T- II- A \l A I i,f.i . 1 m Ill 1f:\ »l 4!ii* 230 KEW TRAVELS on this head, it is necessary first to ascertain the distance between America and those parts of the habitable globe that approach nearest to it. The Continent of America, as far as we can judge from all the researches that have been made near the poles, appears to be entirely separated from the other quarters of the world. That part of Europe which approaches nearest to it, is the coast of Greenland, lying in about seventy degrees of north latitude; and which reaches within twelve de- grees of the coast of Labradore, situated on the north-east borders of this continent. The coast of Guinea is the nearest part of Africa; which lies about 1860 miles north-east from the Brazils. The most eastern coast of Asia, which extends to the Korean Sea on the north of China, projects north-east through eastern Tartary and Kamschatka to Siberia, in about sixty degrees of north latitude. Towards which the western coast of America, from California to the Straits of Annian, extend nearly north-west, and lie in about forty-six de- grees of the same latitude. Whether the Conti- nent of America stretches any farther north than these straits, and joins to the eastern parts of Asia, agreeably to what has been asserted by some of the writers I have quoted, or whether the lands that have been discovered in the intermediate parts are only an archipelago of islands, verging towards the opposite continent, is not yet ascertained. It being, however, certain that there are many eon* giderable islands which lie between the extremities of Asia aiid America, viz. Japan, Yesco or Jedso, ^i ans, extra AMONG THE IN-^DIAXS. S3 1 Gama's Land, Behrring's Isle, with many otlicrs fliscovered by Tschirikovv, and besides these, from fifty dgrees north there appearing to be a ckister of islands that reach as far as Siberia, it is proba ble from their proximity to America, that it re- ceived its first inhabitants from them. This con- fclusion is the most rational I am able to draw, supposing that since the Aborigines got footing on this continent, no extraordinary or sudden change in the position or surface of it has taken place, from inundations, earthquakes, or any revolutions of thp earth that we are at present unacquainted "with. To me it appears highly improbable, that it should have been peopled from diffeie'"!t quar- ters, across tlie Ocean, as others have asserted. From the size of the ships made use of in those early ages, and the want of the compass, it can- not be supposed that any maritime nation would by choice venture over the unfathomable ocean, in search of distant continents. Had this how- ever been attempted, or had America been first accidentally peopled from ships freighted with passengers of both sexes, which were driven by strong easterly winds across the Atlantic, these settlers must have retained some traces of the lan- guage of the country from whence they migrated ; and this, since the discovery of it by the Europe- ans, must have been made out. It also appears extraordinary, that several of these accidental mi -grations, as allowed by some, and these from dif- ferent parts, should have taken place. Upon the whole, after the most critical inquiries, antl the fri :■ »? > i 232 NEW TRAVELS maturest deliberation, I am of opinion, that Ame- rica received its first inhabitants from the North East, by way of the Great Archipelago just men- tioned, and from these alone. Bui this might have been effected at different times, and from various parts : from Tartary, China, Japan, or Kamschatka, the inhabitants of these places resembling each other in colour, features and shape ; and who, be- fore some of them acquired a knowledge of the arts and sciences, might have likewise resembled each other in their manners, customs, religion, and language. The only difference between the Chi- nese n ation and the Tartars lies in the cultivated state of the one, and the unpolished condition of other. The former have become a commercial people, and dwell in houses formed into regular towns and cities; the latter live chiefly in tents, and rove about in different herds, without any fixed abode. Nor can the long and bloody wars these two nations have been engaged in, extermi- nate their hereditary similitude. The present fa- mily of the Chinese emperors is of Tartarian ex- traction; and if they were not sensible of some claim besides that of conquest, so numerous a people would scarcely sit quiet under the dominion of strangers. It is very evident that some of the manners an■ .i ■ !. i ^' I .!• '' v% tiS KEW TRAVELS. I J.: 4 .., '.. .• ■!» r' y ^ OBSERVATIONS H{ M*- Ufailc in a Voyage, commencing at St. Catherine's Landing, oit tlu! East Bank of tliu Alississippi, proceeding downwards to the Mouth of lied ftiver, and from thence ascending that River, tbc Black River, and the Washita River, a$ high as the Hot Springs, in the proximity of tiic last mentioned Rivcr^ extracted from the Journals of William Duabar, £»q. anJ Doctor Hunter. ' Mu. Dunbar, Doctor Hunter, and the party tni ployed by the United States to make a survey of, and explore the country traversed by the Washita river, left St. Catherine's Landing, on the Mississippi, in latitude 31 deg. 2()min. SOsec. N. and longitude 6 ho. 5 min. 56 sec. W. from the meridian of Greenwich, on Tuesday the l6th of October, 1804. A little distance below St. Ca- therine's Creek, and live leagues from Natches, they passed the White Clilfs, composed chiefly of sund, surmounted by pine, and from 100 to 200 feet higii. When the ^v'aters of the Mississippi are low, the base of t/iC chff is uncovered, which consists of different coloured clays, and some beds of ochre, over which there lies, in some places, a thin lamina of iron ore. Small springs, possessing a petrifying quality, flow over the clay and ochre, and numerous logs and pieces of tloa- ber, converted into stone, are strewed about the and lor wich. vide, ; banks c land lov of thirt ter at ti iiccount Orleans, falaya, i contjnu: not unit the inun On th com men party ar] latitude twenty liver der niarle, o the last tlie hii?h inch in t surprising depositio willows as the River,. party survey »y tlie Ion the kec. N. the 6th of St. Ca- atches, fly of to 200 sissippi which 1 some t some prings, he clay of tiiB- out the I le AMONG THE INDIANS. J?S9 beach. Fine pure argil of various colours, chiefly white and red, is found here. On the 17th they ai rived at the mouth of Red river, the confluence of which with the Missis- sippi, agreeably to the observations of Mr. dc Ferrer, lies in latitude SJdeg. 1 niin. 13 sec. N. and longitude 6 ho. 7 niin. Usee, west of Green- wich. Red River is here about AGO yards wide, and without any sensible current. The banks of the river are clothed with willow ; the land low and subject to inundation, to the height of thirty feet or more above the level of the wa- ter at this time. Tlie mouth of the Red river is accounted to be seventy-five leagues from New Orleans, and three miles higher up than the Cha- falaya, or Opelousa river, which was probably a continuation of the Red iiver when its waters did not unite with those of the Mississippi, but during the inundation. On the 18th the survey of the Red river was commenced, and on the evening of the l.Qth the party arrived at the mouth of the Black river, in latitude Sldeq-. ISmin. 48 sec. N. and about twenty-six miles from the Mississippi. The Red liver derives its name from the rich fat earth, or marie, of that colour, borne down by the floods ; the last of which appeared to have deposited on the high bank a stratum of upwards of half an inch in thickness. 'J he vegetation on its banks is surprisingly luxuriant ; no doubt owing to the deposition of marie during its annual floods. The willows grow to a good s'lzt; but other forest „1 :■■: i*^ ■ ;{ v:--A' t M 11 I: -\ . .r 240 NEW TRAVELS trees are much smaller than those seen on the banks of the Mississippi. As yoii advance up the river it gradually narrows; in latitutle SlHcfr. 8niin. N. it is about SOO yards wide, wliich width is continued to the mouth of filack river, where cacli of them appears 150 yards across. The banks of the river are covered with pea vine, and seve- ral sorts of grass, bearing seed, which geese and ducks eat very greedily ; and tliere are generally seen willows growing on one side, and on the other a small growth of black oak, paccawn, hic- cory, elm, &c. The current in the Red river is so moderate, as scarcely to afford an impediment to its ascent. On sounding the Black river, a little above its mouth, there was found twenty feet of water, with a bottom of black sand. The water of Black ri- ver is rather clearer than that of the Ohio, and of a warm temperature, which it may receive from the water flowing into it from tlie valley of the Mississippi, particularly by the C'atahoola. At noon on the 23d, by a good meridian observation, they ascertained their latitude to be SOdeg. 36min. 29 sec. N., and were then a little below the mouths of the Catahoola, Washita, and Bayau Tenza, the united waters of winch forir. the Black river. The current is very gentle the whole length of the Black river, which in many places does not ex- ceed eighty yards in width. The banks on the lower part of the river present a great luxuriance of vegetation and rank grass, with red and black oak, ash, paccawn, hickory, and some elms. The soil i port! Missi lofty, but re iatitu< that c a proo perhap appear other f side, comes of fort' dated, ' from th the MiJ all allui press 8\\ all the small b( in this r On the 1 ment of man anc forty fee the river sides th pierced inundati( They crane; g Iniin. iuths the I The the ex- ihe lance (lack The AMONG THE INDIANS. 241 soil is bfack marl, mixed with a moderate pro- portion of sand, resembling much the soil on the Mississippi banks j yet, the forest trees are not lofty, like those on the margin of the great river, but resembling the growth on the Red river. In latitude 31 deg. 22min. 46sec. N. they observed that canes grew on several parts of the right bank, a proof that the land is not deeply overflowed ; perhaps from one to three feet : the batiks ):ave the appearance of stability; very little >^*Uow, rr other productions of a newly formed soil on eitl^: side. On advancing up the river, the timber be- comes larger, in some places rising to the height of forty feet ; yet the land is liable to be inun- dated« not from the waters of this small river, but from the intrusion of its more powerful neighbour the Mississippi. The lands decline rapidly, as in all alluvial countries, from the margin to the cy- press swamps, where more or less water stagnates all the year round. On the 21st they passed a small but elevated island, saio i:> be the only one in this river for more than 100 leagues ascending. On the left bank, near this island, a small settle- ment of a couple of acres has been begun by a man and his wife. The banks are not less than forty feet above the present level of the water in the river, and are but rarely overflowed : on both sides they are clothed with rich cane brake, pierced by creeks fit to carry boats during the inundation. They saw many cormorants, and the hooping crane ; geese and ducks are not yet abundant, but i % 242 NEW TRAVELS are said to arrive in myriads, with the rains anc winter's cold. They shot a fowl of the duck kind whose foot was partially divided, and the body covered with a bluish or lead coloured plumage. On the morning of the 22d they observed green matter floating on the river; supposed to come from the Catahoola and other lakes and bayaus of stagnant water, which, when raised a little by rain, flow into the Black river ; and also many patches of an aquatic plant, resembling small islands, some floating on the surface of the river, and others adhering to, or resting on the shore and logs. On examining this plant, it was found a hollow jointed stem, with roots of the same form, extremely light, with very narrow willow-shaped leaves projecting from the joint, embracing how- ever the whole of the tube, and extending to the next inferior joint or knot. The extremity of each branch is terminated by a spike of very slen- der, narrow, seminal leaves, from one to two inches in length, and one- tenth, or less, in breadth, pro- ducing its seed on the underside of the leaf, in a double row almost in contact; the grains alter- nately placed in perfect regularity : not being able to find the flower, its class and order could not be determined, although it is not probably new. To- wards the upper part of the Black river, the shore abounded with muscles and perriwinkles. The muscles were of the kind called pearl muscles. The men dressed a quantity of them, considering them as «in agreeable food ; but Mr. D. found them tough and unpalatable. Or they man i nish ^ and i horses settlei ver. of tin and el( pass, ] li ty as larger now er is the which 1 on an J There i place, descrip their pi site del bottom Fron Wash it camped -'- This of an I the ren great pi a small another AMONG THE INDIANS. 243 On arriving at the mouth of the Catahoola, they landed to procure information from a French- man settled there. Having a grant from the Spa- nish government, he has made a small settlement, and keeps a ferry-boat for carrying over men and horses travelling to and from Natchez, and the settler.ents on Red river, and on the Washita ri- ver. The country here is all alluvial. In process of time, the rivers shutting up ancient passages, and elevating the banks over which their waters pass, no longer communicate with the same faci- lity as formerly ; the consequence is, that many larger tracts, formerly subject to inundation, are now entirely exempt from that inconvenience. Such is the situation of a most valuable tract upon which this Frenchman is settled. His house stands on an Indian mount, with several others in view. There is also a species of rampart surrounding this place, and one very elevated mount, a view and description of which are postponed till the return; their present situation not allowing of the requi- site delay. The soil is equal to the best ]V(jssissippi bottoms. From this place they proceeded to the mouth of Washita, inlat. 33deg. 37min. 7 sec. N. and en- camped on the evening of the S3d. This river derives its appellation from the name of an Indian tribe formerly resident on its banks; the remnant of which, it is said, went into the great plains to the westward, and either compose a small tribe themselves, or are incorporated into another nation. The £lack river looses its name ' M I ;• 244 '" NEW TRAVELS » at the junction of the Washita, Catahoola, and Tenza, although our maps represent it as taking place of the Washita. The Tenza and Catahoola are also named from Indian tribes now extinct. The latter is a creek twelve leagues long, which is the issue of a lake of the same name, eight leagues in length, and about two leagues in breadth. It lies west from the mouth of the Catahoola, and communicates with the Red river during the great annual inundation. At the west or north-west angle of the lake, a creek called Little river enters, which preserves a channel with running water at all seasons, meandering along the bed of the lake ; but in all other parts its superfices, during the dry season from July to November, and often later, is completely drained, and becomes covered with the most luxuriant herbage ; the bed of the lake then becomes the residence of immense herds of deer, of turkeys, geese, cranes, &c. which feed on the grass and grain. Bayau Tenza serves only to drain off a part of the waters of the inundation from the low lands of the Mississippi, which here communicate with the Black river during the sea- son of high water. Between the mouth of the Washita and Ville- mont's prairie on the right, the current of the river is gentle, and the banks favourable for towing. The lands on both sides have the appearance of being above the inundation ; the timber, generally such as high lands produce, being chiefly red, white and black oaks, interspersed with a variety of other . trees. The magnolia grandiflora, that infallible and i the m perva( time, boar remar whic innuqi season Vil of its Frenc Many their jected but th( ecuted eequen 1*1 •■.'*f' ■* .,m^ AMONG THE INDIANS. S45 sign of the land not being subject of inundation, is not, however, among them. Along the banks a stratum of solid clay, or marl, is observable, ap- parently of an ancient deposition. It lies in ob- lique positions, makipg an angle of nearly 30 de- grees with the horizon, and generally inclined with the descent of the river, although in a few cases the position was contrary. Timber is seen pro- jecting from under the solid bank, which seems indurated, and unquestionably very ancient, pre^ senting a very different appearance from recently formed soil. The river is about 80 yards wide, A league above the mouth of the Washita, the Bayau Haha comes in unexpectedly from the right, and is one of the many passages through which the waters of the great inundation penetrate and pervade all the low countries, annihilating, for a time, the currents of the lesser rivers in the neigh- bourhood of the Mississippi. The vegetation is remarkably vigorous along the alluvial banks, which are covered with a thick shrubbery, and innuiperable plants jn full blossom at this late season. Villemont's prairie is so named in consequence of its being included within a grant under the French government to a gentleman of that name. Many other parts on the Washita are named after their early proprietors. The French people pro»" jected and began extensive settlements on this river, but the general massacre planned, and in part ex* ccuted by the Indians against them, and the con- sequent destruction of the Natchez tribe by the 1*^ t4 fr i! m ■ ^ im m 246 NEW TRAVELS French, broke up all these undertakings, and they "were not recommenced under that government. Those prairies are plains, or savannas, without tim- ber; generally very fertile, and prod jcing an exu- berance of strong, thick, and coarse herbage. When a piece of ground has once got into this state, in an Indian country, it can have no opportunity of re-producing timber, it being an invariable practice to set fire to the dry grass in the fall or winter, to obtain the advantage of attracting game when the young tender grass begins to spring: this destroys the young timber, and the prairie annually gains upon the wood-land. It is probable that the im- mense plains known to exist in America, may owe their origin to this custom. The plains of the "^ashita lie chiefly on the east side, and being ge- nerally formed like the Mississippi land, sloping from the bank of the river to the great river, they are more or less subject to inundation in the rear ; and in certain great fltods the water has advanced so far as to be ready to pour over the margin into the Washita. This has now become a very rare thing, and it may be estimated, that from a quarter of a mile to a mile iti depth, will remain free from inundation during high floods. This is pretty much the case with those lands nearly as high as the post of the Washita, with the exception of cer- tain ridges of primitive high-land ; the rest being evidently alluvial, although not now subject to be inundated by the Washita river, in consequence of the great depth which the bed of the river has ac- quired by abrasion. On approaching towards the high 1 sound ter ou the ri^ little a AMONG THE INDIANS. 247 Bayau Louis, which empties its waters into the Wasliita on the right, a Uttle below the rapids, there is a great deal of high land on both sides, which produces pine and other timber, not the growth of inundated lands. At the foot of the rapids the navigation of the river is impeded by beds of gra- vel formed in it. The first rapids lie in latitude 31 deg. 48 min. 57 sec. 5 N. a little above which there is a high ridge of primitive earth, studded with abundance of fragments of rocks, ©r stone^ which appear to have been thrown up to the sur- face in a very irregular manner. The stone is of a friable nature, some of it having the appearance of indurated clay ; the outside is blackish from expos- ure to the air ; within, it is a greyish white. It is said that iu the hill the strata are regular, and that good grindstones may be here obtained. The l^t of the rapids, which is formed by a ledge ofrocks crossing the entire bed of the river, was passed in the evening of the 27th ; above it the water became again like a mill-pond, and about one hundred yards wide. The whole of *hese first shqals, or rapids, embraced an extent of about a mile and a half: the obstruction was not continued, but felt at short intervals in this distance. On the right, about four leagues from the rapids, they passed the ** Bayau Aux Boeufs," a little above a rocky hill : high lands and savanna are seen on the right. On sounding the river, they found tliree fathoms wa- ter on a bottom of mud and sand. The banks of the river, above the bayau, seem to retain very little alluvial sqilj the highland earth, which is a ! ■■■ l.i UMA 248 N£*V TRAVELS satidy loam of alight grey colour, with streaks of red sand and clay, is se^ on the left bank ; the soil not rich, bearing pines, interspersed with red oak, hickory, and dog wood. The river is from sixty to one hundred yards wide here, but decreases as you advance. The next rapid is made by a ledge of rocks traversing the river, and narrowing the water channel to about thirty yards. The width between the high banks cannot be less than one hundred yards, and the banks from thirty to forty feet high. In latitude 32 deg. 10 min. 13 sec. rapids and shoals again occurred, and the chan- nel was very narrow ; the sand bars, at every point, extended so far into the bend as to leave little more than the breadth of the boat of water sufficiently deep for her passage, although it spreads over the width of seventy or eighty yards upon the shoal. ^ ^ ^ *. ♦ ' - ^ v-" ^ *-- ^ r^ • In the afternoon of the Slst, they passed a little plantation or settlement on the right, and at night arrived at three others adjoining each other. These settlements are on a plain or prairie, the soil of which we may be assured is alluvial from the regu- lar slope which the land has from the river. The bed of the river is now sufficiently deep to free them from the inconvenience of its inundation ; yet in the rear, the waters of the Mississippi ap- proach, and sometimes leave dry but a narrow ftrip along the bank of the river. It is however now more common, that the extent of the fields cultivated (from * to j mile) remains dry during the season of inundation ; the soil here is very m f AMONG THE INDIANS. 249 good, but not equal to the Mississippi bottoms; it may be esteemed second rate. At a small distance to the east are extensive cypress swamps, over which the waters of the inundation always stand to the depth of from fifteen to twenty-five feet. On the west side, after passing over the valley of the river, whose breadth varies from a quarter of a mile to two miles, or more, the land assumes a considerable elevation, from one hundred to three hundred feet, and extends all along to the settle- ments of the Red river. These high lands are re- ported to be poor, and badly watered, being chiefly what is termed a pine barren. There is here a ferry and road of communication between the post of the Washita, and the Natchez, and a fork of this road passes to the settlement called the ra- pids, on Red river, distance from this place, by computation, one hundred and fifty miles. |s On this part of the river, lies a considerable tract of land, granted by the Spanish government to the Marquis of Maison Rouge, a French emi- grant, who bequeathed it with all his property to M. Bouligny, son of the late colonel of the Loui- siana regiment, and by him sold to Daniel Clarke. It is said to extend from the post of Washita with a breadth of two leagues, including the river, down to the Bayau Calumet; the computed dis- tance of which along the river is called thirty leagues, but supposed not more than twelve in a direct line, . > ^ On the 6th of November, in the afternoon, the party arrived at the post of the Washita, in lat. m ■ ' I , J ' r: : \\ \\V Mil lip ' ^11 1 'iii^ff M 250 NEW TRAVELS 32 tieg. 29 mill. 37 sec. 25 N. where they were politely received by lieut. Bowmar, who immedi- ately offered the hospitality of his dwelling, with all the services in his power. From the ferry to this place, the navigation of the river is, at this season, interrupted by many shoals and rapids. The general width is from eighty to a hundred yards. The water is extremely a- !>reeable to drink, and rr 'ch clearer than that of the Ohio. In this respect it is very unlike its two neighbours, the Arkansa and Red rivers, whose waters are loaded with earthy matters of a reddish brown colour, giving to them a chocolate-like ap- pearance; and, when those waters ar'S low, are not potable, being brackish from the great number of salt springs which flow hito them, and probably from the beds of rock salt over which they may pass. The banks of the river presented very little appearance of alluvial land, but furnished an infini- tude of beautiful landscapes, heightened by the vi- vid colouring they derive from the autumnal changes of the leaf. iMr. Dunbar observes, that the change of colour in the leaves of vegetables, which is probably occasioned by the oxygen of the at- mosphere acting on the vegetable matter, deprived of the protecting power of vital principle, may serve as an excellent guide to the naturalist who directs his attention to the discovery of new ob- jects for the use of the dyer. For he has always re- marked, that the leaves of those trees whose bark or wood is known to produce a dye, arc changed in autumn to the same colour which is ex.tracted ij; log he AMONG THE INDIANS. 251 the dyers* vat from the woods ; more especially by the use of mordants, as alliim, &c., which yields oxygen : thus the foliage of the hickory and oak, which produces the quercitron bark, is changed before its fall into a beautiful yellow. Other oaks assume a fawn colour, a liver colour, or a blood colour, and are known to yield dyes of the same complexion. * ' In lat. 32 deg. J 8 niin. N. Dr. Hunter discovered along the river side a substance nearly resembling miiieral coal ; its appearance was that of the carbo* nated wood described by Kirwan. It does not easily burn ; but on being applied to the flame of a candle, it sensibly increased it, and yielded a faint smell, resembling in a slight degree, that of the gum lac of common sealing wax. Soft friable stone is common, and great quanti- ties of gravel and sand, upon the beaches in this part of the river. A reddish clay appears in the strata, much indurated and blackened by exposure to the light and air. The position called fort Miro being the property of a private person, who was formerly civil com- mandant here, the lieutenant has taken post about four hundred yards lower; has built himself some log houses, and inclosed them with a slight stock- ade. Upon viewing the country east of the river, it is evidently alluvial; the surface has a gentle slope from the river to the rear of the plantations. The land is of excellent quality, being a rich black mould to the depth of a foot, under which there h a friable loam of a brownish liver colour. irl U. \r,H $52 NEW TRAVELS At the pobt of the Washita, they procured a boat of less draught of water than the one in which they ascended the river thus far ; at noon, on the nth of November, they proceeded on the voyage, and in the evening encamped at the plantation of Baron Bastrop. - ? This small settlement on the Washita, and some of the creeks falling into it, contains not moro than five hundred persons, of all ages and sexes. It is reported, however, that there is a great quan- tity of excellent land upon these creeks, and that the settlement is capable of great extension, and may be expected, with an accession of population, to become very flourishing. There are three mer- chants settled at the post, who supply, at very ex- orbitant priceSj the inhabitants with their necesea- ries ; these, with the garrison, two small plant'"'"s, and a tradesman or two, constitute the present village. A great proportion of the inhabitants con-r tinuethe old practice of hunting, during the win- ter season, and they exchange their peltry for ne- cessaries, with the merchants, at a low rate. Dur- ing the summer, these people content themselves ^vith raising corn, barely sufficient for bread dur- ing the year. In this manner they always remain extremely poor.* Some few who have conquered that habit of indolence, which is always the con- sequence of the Indian mode of life, and attend to agriculture, live more comfortably, and taste a little of the sweets of civilized life. The lands along the river above the post, are not very inviting, being a thin poor soil, and cqy- AMONG THE INDIANS. f53 «red with pine wood. To the right, the settlements on the hayau Barthelemi and Siard, are said to be rich land. » On the morning of the thirteenth, they passed an island and a strong rapid, and arrived at a little settlement below a chain of rocks, which cross the channel between an island and the main land> called Roque Raw. The Spaniard and his family settled here, appear, from their indolence, to live miserably. The river acquires here a more spaci- ous appearance, being about one hundred and fifty yards wide. In the afternoon they passed the bayau Barthelemi on the right, above the last set- tlements, and about twelve computed leagues from the post. Here commences Baron Bastrop's great grant of land from the Spanish government, being a square of twelve leagues on each side, a little ex- ceeding a million of French acres. The bank: of the river continue about thirty feet high, of which eighteen feet from the water are a clayey loam of a pale ash colour, upon which the water has de- posited twelve feet of light sandy soil, apparently fertile, and of a dark brown colour. This descrip- tion of land is of small breadth, not exceeding half a mile on each side of the river, and may be called the valley of the Washita, beyond which there is hi'gh land covered with pines. The soil of the " Bayau des Buttes" continues thin, with a growth of small timber. This creek is named from a number ol Indian mounts disco- vered by the hunters along its course. The mar* III I % ,.:!,! ^'. 254 NEW TRAVEL gin of the river begins to be covered with such timber as usually grows on inundated land, parti- cularly a species of white oak, vulgarly called the over-cup oak ; its timber is remarkably hard, so- lid, ponderous, and durable, and it produces a large acorn in great abundance, upon which the bear feeds, and which is very fattening to hogs. In lat. 32 deg. 50 min. 8 sec. N. they passed a long and narrow island. The face of the country begins to change; the banks are low and steep; the river deep and more contracted, from thirty to fifty yards in width. The soil in the neighbour- hood of the river is a very sandy loam, and covered with such vegetables as arc found on the inundated lands of the Mississippi. The tract presents the ap- pearance of a new soil, very diflferent from what they passed below. This alluvial tract may be sup- posed the site of a great lake, drained by a natural channel, from the abrasion of the waters : since which period the annual inundations have depo- sited the superior soil ; eighteen or twenty feet are vranting to render it habitable for man. It ap- pears, nevertlieless, well stocked with the beasts of the forest, several of which were seen. Qujintities of water-fowl arc beginning to make their appearance, which are not very numerous here until the cold rains and frost compel them to leave a more northern climate. Fish is not so abun- dant as might be expected, owing, it is said, to the inundation of the Mississippi, in the year 1799, which dainmed up the Washita, some distance above ft AMONG THE INDIAN'S. 25.1 the post, and produced a stagnation and consc- (juent corruption of the waters that destroyed all the fish within its iufluence. At noon, on the 15th November, they passed tlm island of Mallet, and at ninety yards north-east from the upper point of the island, by a good ob- servation ascertained their latitude to be 3^2 dea:. 5.9 niin. 27 sec. 5 N. or two seconds and a half of latitude south of the dividing line between the ter- ritories of Orleans and Louisiana. Tlie bed of the river along this alluvial country, is generally co- vered with water, and the navigation uninterrupted ; but in the afternoon of this day, they passed three contiguous sand bars, or beaches, called '* les trois battures," and before evening the " bayau de grand Marais," or great marsh creek on the right, aud '* la Cypreri Chattelrau," a point of high land on the other side, which reaches within half a mile of the river. As they advanced towards the ma- rais de saline, on the right, a stratum of dirty white clay under the alluvial tract, shewed them to be leaving the sunken, and approaching the high land country. The salt lick marsh, does not derive its name from any brackishness in the water of the lake or marsh, but from its contiguity to some of the licks, sometimes called " saline,* and sometimes " glaise," generally found in a clay, compact enough for potters' ware. The bayau de la Tulipe forms a communication between the lake and the river. Opposite to tliis place, there is a point of high land forming a promontory, advancing within a mile of the river, and to which boats resort when the « fi A i:: I tfi5;''' < v; r '! ■ I. ! w ■; §h n ^56 V NETT TRAVFX* low groutids are under water. A short league above is the mouth of the grand bayau de la Sa- line ( Salt Lick creek ). This creek is of a consider- able length, and navigable for small boats. The hunters ascend it, to one hundred of their leagues, in pursuit of game, and all agree that none of the springs which feed this creek are salt. It has ob- tained its name from the many buffaloe salt licks "which have been discovered in its vicinity. Al- though most of these licks, by digging, furnish water which holds marine salt in solution, there exists no reason for believing, that many of them would produce nitre. Notwithstanding this low and alluvial tract appears in all respects well adapted to the growth of the long moss (tilandsia), none was observed since entering it in latitude 32 deg. 62 min. and as the pilot informed them, none would be seen in their progress up the river, it is probable that the latitude of thirty-three de- grees is about the northern limit of vegetation. The long-leaf pine, frequently the growth of rich and even inundated land, was here observed in great abundance : the short-leaved or pitch pine, on the .contrary, is always foand upon arid lands and generally in sandy and lofty situations. * This is the season when the poor settlers on the Washita turn out to make their annual hunt. The deer is now fat anfl the skins in perfection; the bear is now also in his best state, with regard to the quality of his fur, and the quantity of fat or oil he yields, as he has been feasting luxuriant ly on the autumnal fruits of the forest. It is here ^'T? AMONG THE INDIANS. 257 well known, that he does not confine himself, as some writers have supposed, to vegetable food ; he is particularly fond of hogs' flesh : sheep and calves are frequently his prey, and no animal escapes him which comes within his power, and which he is able to conquer. He often destroys the fawn, when chance throws it in his way; he cannot, however, discover it by smelling, notwithstanding the excellence of his scent, for nature has, as if for its protection, denied the fawn the property of leaving any effluvium upon its track, a property so powerful in the old deer.* The bear, unlike most other beasts of prey, does not kill the animal he has seized upon before he eats it ; but, regardless of its struggles, cries, and lamentations, fastens upon, and if the expression is allowable, devours it alive. The hunters count much on their pro- fits from the oil drawn from the bears' fat, which, at New Orleans, is always of ready sale, and much esteemed for its wholesomeness in cooking, being preferred to butter or hog's lard. It is found to keep longer than any other animal oil, without b coming rancid ; and boiling it, from time to tiuie, i! imm '5?^ ^ ■ M * "I It may not be generally known to naturalists, that between the hoof of the deer, &c. there is found a sack, with ils mouth inclining upwards, containing more or less of musk, and which, by escaping over the opening, in proportion to the secretion, causes the foot to leave a scent on the ground wherever it passes. Dur* ing the rutting season, this musk is so abundant (particularly in old malc») as to be smcUed by the hunters at a considerabl* dis- tance, « ■'1: ,tl .-*« ^B . ? »EW TRAVELS ' ' liipon sweet bay leaves, restores its sweetness^ or facilitates its conservation. ' - * - ' »< •> • - In the afternoon 6f the 17tli they passed some sand beaches, and over a few rapids. They had cane brakes on both, sides of the river ; the canes were small, but demonstrate that the water does not surmount the bank more than a few feet. The river begins to widen as they advance ; the banks of the river shew the high land soil, with a stratum of three or four feet of alluvion deposited by the river upon it. This superstratum is greyish, and very sandy, with a small admixture of loam, iiidi^ cative of the poverty of the mountains and up- lands where the river rises. Near this they passed through a new and very narrow channel, in which all the water of the river passes, except in time of freshes, when the interval forms an island. A little above this pass is a small clearing, called " Cache la TuHpe" (Tulip's hiding place); this is the name of a French hunter who here concealed his pro- perty. It contin\ies the practice of both the white and red hunters to leave their skins, &c. often suspended to poles, or laid over a pole placed upon two forked posts, in sight of the river, until their return from hunting. These deposits are consf« dered as sacred, and few examples exist of their being plundered. After passing the entrance of a "bay, ^yhich within must form a great lake during the inundation, great numbers of the long leaf pine were observed ; and the increased size of the canes along the river's bank, denoted a better and more t^t?- ^ «. '« AMONG THE II^DIANS. 259 elevated soil ; on the left was a high hill (300 feet) covered with lofty pine trees. *. , -.^:,,.. : The banks of the river present more the appear- ance of upland soil, the wnder stratum being a pale yellowish clay, and the alluvial soil of a dirty white, surmounted by a thin covering of a brown vegetable earth. The trees improve in appearance, growing to a considerable size and height, though yet inferior to those on the alluvial banks of the Mississippi. After passing the *' Bayau de Hachis,* on the left, points of high land, not subject to be overflowed, frequently touch the river, and the valley is said to be more than a league in breadth on both sides. On the left arc pine hills called ** Code de Champignole,** The river is not more than fifty or sixty yards wide. On the morning of the 2Qth they passed a number of sand beaches, and some rapids, but found good depth of water between them. A creek c:?I'f^d ** Chemin Con- vert,** which forms a deep raviJu in the high lands, here enters the river; almost mmediately above this is a rapid where the water in the river is con- fined to a channel of abont forty ysadt in width ; above it they had to quit the mam channel, ou account of the shallowness and rapidity of the water, and pass along a narrow channel of only sixty feet wide: without a guide, a stranger might take this passage for a creek. Notwithstanding the lateness of the season, and the northern latitude they were in, thi^y this day met with an alligator. The banks of the river are covered with caue, or thick under-brush, fre^ IS ♦ ■ii A i:ir , t 4! ' ;t .,H;'.j m ■^1^ > >' ^^ rWf f60 iJEtr TRAVELS quently so interwoven with thorns and briars as to be impenetrable. Birch, maple, holly, and two kinds of wood to which names have not yet been given, except *' water side wood,'* are here met with; as also persimons and small black grapes. The margin of the river is fringed with a variety of plants and vinfls, among which are several spe- cies of convolvulus. On the left they passed a hill and cliff one hun- dred feet perpendicular, crowned with pines, and called "Cote de Finn's (Fin's hill) from which a chain of high land continues some distance. The cliif presents the appearance of an ash-coloured clay. A little farther to the right is the Bayau d'Acasia (Locust creek.) The river varies here from eighty to an hundred yards in width, pre- senting frequent indications of iron along its banks and some thin strata of iron ore. The ore is from half an inch to three inches in thickness. On the morning of the 22d of November, they arrived at the road of the Chadadoquis Indian na- tion, leading to the Arkansa nation ; a little beyond this is the £cor a Frabri (Fabri's cliffs) from 80 to 100 feet high ; and a little distance above, a smaller cliff called " Le Petit Ecor a Fabri ' (th« Little Cliff of Fabri : ) these cliffs appear chiefly to be composed of ash-coloured sand, with a stra- tum of clay at the base, such as runs all along un- der the banks of this river. Above these cHffs are several rapids ; the current is swifter, and denotes their ascent into a higher country ; the water be- comes clear, and equal to any in its very agreeable these, ^ .ti' ble AMONG THE INDIANS. S6l taste, and as drinking water. In the river are im- mense beds of gra^'el and sand, over which the water passes with great velocity in the season of its floods, carrying with it vast quantities of drift wood, which it piles up, in many places, to the height of twenty feet above the present surface, pointing out the difficulty and danger of naviga« tion in certain times of the flood ; accidents, how- ever, are rare with the canoes of the country. As the party ascended they found the banks of the river less elevated, being only from nine to twelve feet, and are probably surmounted by the freshes some feet. The river becomes more ob- structed by rapids, and sand and gravel beaches, among which are found fragments of stone of all forms, and a variety of colours, some highly polish- ed and rounded by friction. The banks of the river in this upper country suffer greatly by abra- sion^ one side and sometimes both being broken down by every flood. .. ,, ., , t . „,,. , At a place called " Auges d' Arclon,'* (Arclon's troughs) is laminated iron ore, and a stratum of black sand, very tenacious, shining with minute chrystals, The breadth of the river is here about eighty yards : in some places, however, it is en- larged by islands, in others^ contracted to eighty or one hundred feet. Rocks of a greyish colour, and rather friable, are here found in many places on the river. On the banks grow willows ofa^ different form from those found below, and on the margin of the Mississippi; the last are very brittle; these, on the contrary, aye e:jtremely pliant, re- -'"'Vl H ^K ''>^- . * )iiHf0^ i ^62 NEW TRAVELS S^mbling the osier, of which they are probably a species. At noon on the 24th, they arrived at the conflu- ence of the lesser Missouri with the Washita; the former is a considerable branch, perhaps the fourth of the Washita, and comes in from the left hand; The hunters often ascend the Little Missouri, but are not inclined to penetrate far up, because it reaches near the great plains or pr?iries upon the tod river, visited by the lesser Osage tribes of Indians, settled on Arkansa; these last frequently carry war into the Chadadoquis tribe settled on the Red river, about west, south-west from this place, and indeed they are reported not to spare iiny nation or people. They are prevented from visiting the head waters of the Washita by the steep hills in which they rise. These mountains are so difficult to travel over, that the savages not having an object sufficiently desirable, never attempt to penetrate to this river, and it is sup* f osed to be unknown to the nation. The Cada- doquis (or Cadaux as the French pronounce the word) may be considered as Spanish Indians: thL\% boast, and it is said with truth, that they never have imbrusjd their hands in the blood of a White man. It is said that the stream of the Lit- tle Missouri, some distance from its mouth, flows over a bright splendid bed of mineral of a yel- lowish white colour, (most probably martial py- rites) that thirty years ago, several of the inhabi- tants, hunters, worked upon this mine, iand sent a quantity of the ore to the government at New to tW( land « * "^ AMONG THE INDIANS. ft&S Orleans and they were prohibited from working any more. There is a great sameness in the appearance of the river batiks ; the islands are skirted with osier, and immediately within, on the bank, grows a range of birch trees and some willows ; the more elevated banks are covered with cane, among which grow the oak, maple, elm, sycamore, ash, hickory, dog-wood, holly, ironwood, &c. From the pilot they learned that there is a body of ex- cellent land on the Little Missouri, particularly on the creek called the ^* Bayau a terre noire,** which falls into it. This land extends to Red River, and is connected with the great prairies ^vhich form the hunting grounds of the Cadaux nation, consisting of about 200 warriors. They are warlike, but frequently unable to defend them- selves against the tribe of Osagcs, settled on the Arkansa river, who, passing round the mountains at the head of the Washita, and along the prairies, which separated them from the main chain on the west, where the waters of the Red and Arkansa rivers have their rise, pass into the Cadaux coun- try, and rob and plunder them. The water in the river Washita rising, the party are enabled to pass the numerous rapids and shoals which they meet with in the upper country ; some of which . are difficult of ascent. The general height of the main banks of the river is from six to twelve feet above the level of the water ; the land is better in quality, the canes, &c. shewing a more luxuriant vegetation. It is subject to in- i . > ..ii Kt ■§[■ M Svv^fc, ,->>.'J NEW TRAVELS «. undation, and shews a brown soil mixed with sand. Near Cache Macon (Maison's hiding place) on the right, they stopped to examine a supposed coal mine: Doctor Hunter, and the pilot, set out for this purpose, and about a mile and a half north- west from the boat, in tlie bed of a creek, they found a substance similar to what they had before met with under that name, though more advanced towards a state of perfect coal. At the bottom of the creek, in a place then dry, were found detached pieces of from fifty to one hundred pounds weight, adjoining to which lay wood, changing into the same substance. A stratum of this coal, six inches thick, lay on both sides of this little creek, over another of yellow clay, and covered by one foot of gravel ; on the gravel are eight inches of loarr/, which bear a few inches of vegetable mould. This stratum of coal is about three feet higher than the water in the creek, and appears manifestly to have been, at some period, the surface of the ground. The gravel and loam have been deposited there since, by the waters. Some pieces of this coal were very black and solid, of an homogene- ous appearance, much resembling pit coal, but of less specific gravity. It does not appear sufficient- ly impregnated with bitumen, but may be consi- dered as vegetable matter in the progress of trans- mutation to coal. Below the **Bayau de I'eau Froide," which run» into the Washita from the right, the river is one hundred and seventy yards, flowing through toler- ably good l^pd. They passed a beautiful forest AMONG THE INDIANS. S65 of pines, and on the 98th fell in with an old Dutch hunter and his party, consisting in all of five persons. This man has resided forty years on the Wash- ita, and before that periofj, had been up the Ar- kansa River, the White River, and the St. Francis; the two last he informs, are of difficult navigation, simiiar to the Washita, but the Arkansa river is of great magnitude, having a larg^ /nd broad chan- nel, and when the water is low, iis great sand banks, like those in the Mississippi. So far as he has been up it, the navigation is safe and commo- dious, without impediments from rocks, shoals, or rapids ; its bed being formed of mud and sand. The soil on it is of the first rate quality. The country is easy of access, being lofty open forests^ unembarrassed by canes or under growth. The water is disagreeable to drink, being of a red co-^ lour and brackish when the river is low. A mul- titude of creeks which flow into the Arkansa fur- nish sweet water, which the voyager is obliged to carry with him for the the supply of his immediate wants. This man confirms the accounts of silver being abundant up that river : he has not been so high as to see it himself, but says he received a silver pin from a hunter, who as.sured him that he himself collected the virgin silver from the rock, out of which he made the epinglete by hammering it out. The tribe of the Osage live higher up than this position, but the hunters rarely go so high, being afraid of these savages, who are at war with all the world, and destroy all strangers they meet '«;' ''! m l;4il mm ■■I, ji ■■ iii! » m If • A m 266 NEW TRAVELS with. It is reported that the Arkansa nation, with a part of the Choctaws, Chickasaws, Shawncese, &c. have formed a league and are actually gone, or going, 800 strong, against these depredators, with a view to destroy or drive them entirely off, and possess themselves of their fine prairies, which are most abundant hunting grounds, being plen- tifully stocked with buffaloe, elk, deer, bear, and every other beast of the chase common to those latitudes ,in America. This hunter having given inf )rmation of a small spring in their vicinity, from which he frequently supphed himself with salt by evaporating the water, Dr. Hunter, with a party, accompanied him, on the morning of the 29th of November, to the place. They found a saHne, about a mile and a half north of the camp from whci ce they set out, and near a creek which en- ters the Washita a little above. It is situated in the bottom of the bed of a dry gully. The sur- rounding land is rich, and well timbered, but sub- ject to inundation, except an Indian mount on the creek side, having a base of eighty or an hundred feet diameter, and twenty feet high. After dig- ing about three feet, through blue clay, they came to a quicksand^ from which the water flowed in abundance : its taste was salt and bitter, resembling that of water in the ocean. In a second hole it required them to dig six feet before they reached the quicicsand, in doing which they threw up severai broken pieces of Indian pottery. The spe- cific gravity, compared with the river was, from the first pit, or that three feet deep, 1,02720, from 4 AMONG THE INDIANS. 267 the second pit, or that six feet deep, 1,09104, yielding a saline mass, from the evaporation of ten quarts, which, when dry, weighed eight ounces: this brine is, therefore, about the same strength as that of the ocean on our coast, and twice the strength of the famous licks in Kentuc- ky, called Bullet's Lick and Manns Lick from which so much salt is made. The ** Fourche de Cad 'x" (Cadadoquis Fork) which they passed on the aiorning of the 30th, is about 100 yards wide at its entrance into the War- fihita, from the left ; immediately beyond which, on the same side, the land is high, probably ele- vated SCO feel above the water. The shoals and rapids here impede their progress. At noon they deduced their latitude, by observation, to be SO deg. 1 1 min. 37 sec. north. Receiving infor- mation of another salt lick, or saline. Doctor Hunter landed, with a party, to view it. The pit was found in a low flat place, subject to be over- flowed from the rivet; it was wet and muddy, the earth on the surface yellow, but on digging through about four feet of blue clay, the salt water oozed from a quicksand. Ten quarts of this wa- ter produced, by evaporation, six ounces of saline inass, which, from taste, was principally marine salt ; to the taste, however, it shewed an admix- ture of soda, and muriated magnesia, but the inarine salt greatly preponderated. The specific -gravity was about 1,076, probably weakened from the rain wbich had fallen the day before. The ascent of the river becomes troublesome, from the ,-"•5 :l|i Iri 'Vv ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4? 1.0 III 1 1.1 1.25 Ui|2£ 121 ■^ Uii 12.2 IIS III u 14.0 U il.6 Vj '^ %. /; FhotogFEiphic ScMioes CorpQratiQn 33 WBT MAM STMIT VVIISnR,N.Y. I49W I [4" £68 NEW TEAVEIS fapids and currents, particularly at the " Isle flu bayau des Roches'* (Rocky Creek Island) where it required great exertions, and was attended with 6ome hazard to pass them. This island is three fourths of a nnle in length. The river presents a series of shoals, rapids, and small cataracts ; and they passed several points of high land, full of rocks and stones, much harder and more solid than they had yet met with. : . ?{ . The rocks were all silicious, with their fissures penetrated by sparry matter. Indications of iron were frequent, and fragments of poor ore were common, but no rich ore of that, or an}* other metal, was found. Some of the hills appear well adapted to the cultivation of the vine ; the soil being a sandy loam, with a considerable propor- tion of gravel, and a superficial covering of good vegetable black earth. The natural productions are, several varieties of oak, pine, dog-wood, holly, &c. with a scattering undergrowth' of whortleberry, hawthorn, china briar, and a vari- ety of small vines. ■ Above the Isle de Mallon, the country wears another prospect, high lands and rocks frequently approach the river. The rocks in gi'ain, resemble free stone, and are hard enough to be used as hand- mill stones, to which purpose they are frequently applied. The quality of the lands improves, the stratum of vegetable earth being from six to twelve inches, of a dark brown colour, with an admixture of loam and sand. Below Deer Island they passed a stratum of free stone, fifty feet thick, under which is a quarry of imperfect slate in an find ck, in AMONG TH£ INDIANS. 269 perpendicular layers. About a league from the river, and a little above the slate quarry, is a con- siderable plain, called " Prairie de Champigtiole," often frequented by bufFalos. Some salt licks are found near it, and in many situations on both sides of this river, there are said to be saliues which may hereafter be rendered very productive, and from which the future settlements may be abun- dantly supplied. .^ji(, .^^y^ii «w,. -,^.m About four miles below thfe ''chuttes," (falls) they, from a good observation, found the latitude 34 deg. 21 min. 25 sec. 5. The land on either hand continues to improve in quality, with a suf- ficient stratum of dark earth of a brownish colour. Hills frequently rise out of the level country, full of rocks and stones, hard and flinty, and often resembling Turkey oil stones. Of this kind was a promontory which came in from the right hand a little below the Chuttes; at a distance it presented the appearance of ruined buildings and fortifica- tions, and several insulated masses of rock, con- veyed the idea of redoubts and out-works. This effect was heightened by the rising of a flock of swans, which had taken their station in the water, at the foot of these walls. As the voyagers ap- proached, the birds floated about majestically on the glassy surface of the water, and in tremulous accents seemed to consult upon means of safety. The whole was a sublime picture. In the after- noon of the third of December, they reached the Chuttes, and found the falls to be occasioned by a chain of rocks of the same hard substance seen m mi) 1 '" 'I \mi 270 VEV TRATBU ^ below, extending in the direction of north-east and south-west, quite across the river. The water passes through a number of branches worn by the impetuosity of the torrent, where it forms so many cascades. The chain of rock or hill on the left, appears to have been cut down to its present level by the abrasion of the waters. By great exertion, and lightening the boat, they passed the chuttes that evening, and encamped just above the cata- racts^ and within the hearing of their incessant roar. vy. *• d Immediately above the chuttes, the current of the water is slow, to another ledge of hard free stone; the reach between is spacious, not less than fiOO yards wide, and terminated by a hill 300 feet high, covered with beautiful pines : this is a fine situation for building. In latitude 34 deg. S5 min. 48 sec. they passed a very dangerous rapid, fron^ the number of rocks which obstruct the passage of the water, and break it into foam. On the right of the rapid is a high rocky hill covered with very handsome pine woods. The stratum of the rock has an inclination of 30 deg. to the horizon in the direction of the river descending. This hill may be 300 or 350 feet high ; a border, or list, of green cane skirts the margin of the river, beyond which generally rises a high, and sometimes a barren hill. Near another rapid they passed a hill on the left, containing a large body of blue slate. A small distance above the bayau de Saline they had to pass a rapid of 160 yards in length* and four feet and a half fall* whicii, from its ve- AM&SQ THB INDIANS. 971 locity» the French have denominated ** La Cas- cade." Below the cascade there are rocky hills on l^oth sides, composed of very hard free stone. The stone in the bed of the river, and which has been lolled from th^ upper country, was of the hardest flint, or of a quality resembling the Turkey oil •/tone. "Fourche au Tigree/* (Tyger's Creek,) which comes in from the right, a little above the cascade, is said to have many extensive tracts of xich level land upon it. The rocky hills here fre- quently approach the Washita on both sides ; rich bottoms are nevertheless unfrequent, and the up- land is sometimes of moderate elevation and tole- f ably level. The stones and rocks here met with, ^ve their fissures filled by sparry and crystaline matter. Wild turkles become more abundant and less difllcult of approach than below; and the howl of the wolves is heard during the night : - ^ ^ *=* " To the *' Fourche of Calfat," (Caulker's Creek > where the voyage terminates, they found level and good land on the right and high hills on the left liand. After passing over a very precipitous rapid, seemingly divided into four steps or falls, one of which was at least fifteen inches in perpendiculae height, and which together could not be less than five and a half feet, they arrived at £lles*s camp, a small distance below the Fourche au Cal^t, where they stopped on the sixth of December, as* tiie pilot considered it the most convenient land- ing from whence to carry their necessary baggag« to the hot springs, the distance being about thnee ¥ m . If Pfl mm Pi m 272 . NEW TRAVELS leagues. There is a creek about two leagues higher up, called *'Bayau des Sources Chauds," (Hot Spring Creek) upon the banks of which the hot springs are situated at about two leagues from its mouth Tlie banks of it are hilly, and the road less eligible than from Ellis^ camp. On ascending the hill, to encamp, they found the land very level and good, some plants in flow- er, and a great many evergreen vines ; the forest oak with an admixture of other woods.. The lati- tude of this place is S4 deg. 27 min. 31 sec. 5. The ground on which they encamped was about fifty teet above the water in the river, and sup- posed to be thirty feet higher than the inundations. Hills of considerable height, and clothed with pine, were in view, but the land around, and ex- tending beyond their view, lies handsomely for cultivation. The superstratum is of a blackish- brown colour, upon a yellow basis, the whole in- termixed with gravel and blue schistus, frequently so far decomposed as to have a strong alluminous taste. From their- camp, on the Washita, to the hot springs, a distance of about nine miles, the first six miles of the road is in a westerly direction without many sinuosities, and the remainder north- wardly, which courses are necessary to avoid some very steep hills. In this distance, they found three principal salt licks, and some inferior ones, which, are all frequented by buffaloe, deer, &c. The soil around them is a white tenacious clay, proba- bly fit for potters' ware; hence the name of aise/' which the French hunters have bestowed €l AMONG THE IKDTANS. 57^ Upon most of these Ircks, frequented by the beasts of the forest, many of which exhibit no saline im- pregnation. The first two miles from the river Camp is over level land of the second rate quality; the timber chiefly oak, intermixed with other trees common to the climate, and a few scattered pines. Further on, the lands, on either hand rise into gently swelling hills, covered with handsome pine woods. The road passes along a valley frequently wet by the numerous rills and springs of excellent water which issue from the foot of the hills. Near the hot springs the hills become more elevated, steeper of ascent and rocky. They are here*called mountains, although none of them in view exceed four or five hundred feet in altitude. It is said that mountains of more than five times the eleva- tion of these hills are to be seen in the north-west^ towards the sources of the Washita. One of them is called the glass, crystal, or shining mountain, from the vast number of hexagonal prisms of very transparent and colourless crystal which are found on its surface ; they are generally surmounted by pyramids at one end, rarely on both. These crys- tals do not produce a double refraction of the rays of lights Many searches have been made over these mountains for the precious metals, but it is believed without success. i At the hot springs they found an open log cabin, and a few huts of split boards, all calcu- lated for summer encampment, and which had been erected by persons resorting to the spring for the recovery of their health. > . I 'i ; .1 i^ I \ 0' * tl ! ■■■ ) .44 l)n I PI t :*2 374 NEW TRAVELS They slightly repaired these huts, or cabins, for their accommodation during the time of their de- tention at the springs, for the purpose of examin- ing them and the surrounding country; and mak- ing such astronomical observations as were neces- sary for ascertaining their geographical position. It is understood that the hot springs are included within a grant of some hundred acres, granted by the late Spanish commandant of the Washita, to some of his friends, but it is not believed that a regular patent was ever issued for the place; and it cannot be asserted that residence, with improve- ment here, form a plea to claim the land upon. On their arrival they immediately tasted the waters of the hot springs, that is, after a few mi- nutes cooling, for it was impossible to approach it with the lips when first taken up, without scald- mg: the taste does not differ from that of good water rendered hot by culinary fire. On the 10th they visited all the hot springs. They issue on the east side of the valley, where the huts are, except one spring, which rises on the west bank of the creek, from the sides and foot of a hill. From the small quantity of calcarious mat- ter yet deposited, the western spring does not ap- pear to be of long standing; a natural conduit probably passes under the bed of the creek, and supplies it. There are four principal springs rising immediately on the east bank of the creek, one of which may be rather said to spring out of the gra- vel-bed of the run ; a fifth, a smaller one than that above-mentioned, as rising on the west side of the »s AHONO THE INDIAyS S75 creek; and a sixth, of the same magnitude, the most northerly, and rising near the bank of the creek; the;se are all the sources that merit the name of springs, near the huts; but there is a considerable one below, and all along, at inter- vals, the warm water oozes out, or drops from the bank into the cr«ek, as appears from the condensed vapour floating along the margin of the creek where the drippings occur. The hill from which the hot springs issue is of a conical form, terminating at the top with a few loose fragments of rock, covering a flat space twenty.five feet in dianieter. Although the figure of the hill is conical, it is not entirely insulated, but connected with the neighbouring hills by a very narrow ridge. The primitive rock of this hill, above the base, is principally silicious, some part of it being of the hardest flint, others a freestone, extremely compact and solid, and of various co- lours. The base of the hill, and for a cr u^/iderable extent, is composed of a blackish blue ^chistus, which divides into perpendicular laniina like blue slate. The water of the hot springs is, therefore, delivered from the silicious rock, generally invi- sible at the surface, from the mass of calcarious matter with which it is Incrusted, or rather buried, and which is perpetually precipitating from the water of the springs: a small proportion of iron, in the form of a red calx, is also deposited; the colour of which is frequently distinguishable in the lime. In ascending the hill several patches of rich • T » #; III i-::l ii p I 979 HEW TIUVEU black earth are found, which appear to be formed by the decomposition of the calcarious matter; in other situations the superficial earth is pene^ trated, or incrusted, by limestoner with fine lamina, or minute fragments of iron ore* The water of the hot springs must formerly have issued ^t a greater elevation in tlie hill, and run over the surface, having formeri a mass of calcarious rock one hundred feet perpendicular, by i|s deposition. In this higli situation they found a spring, whose temperature was 140 deg. ©f Farenheif^s thermometer. After passing the calcarious region, they found the primitive hill covered by a forest of not very large trees, con- sisting chiefly of oak, pine, cedar, holly, haw- thorn, and others common to tlie climate, with a great variety of vines, some said to produce black, and others yellow grapes, both excellent in their kinds. The soil is rocky« interspersed with gravel, sand, and. fine vegetable mould. On rieaching the height of two hundred feet perpendicular, a con- siderable change in the soil was observable ; it was stony and gravelly, with a superficial coat of black earth, but immediately under it lies a strtr tum of fat, ter^acioua^ soapy, red clay, inclining to the colour of bright Spanish snuff, l^omogene- ous, with scarcely any admixture of sand, no saline, but rather a soft agreeable taste: the tim- ber diminishes,, and the rocks increase in size to .the surnrntt. The whole height is estimated at three hundred feet abbve the level of the valley. On examining the four principal springs, ot AMONG THE INDTAKI. f77 those which yield the greatest quantity of water, or of the highest temperature, No. 1 was found to raise the mercury to 150 deg. No. 8 to 154 deg. No. 3 to 136 deg. and No. 4 to 132 degrees of Farenheit's thermometer; the last is on the west side of the creek: No. S is a small basin, in which there is a considerable quantity of green matter, having much the appearance of a vegetable body, but detached from the bottom, yet connected with it by something like a stem, which rests in calcarious matter. The body of one of these pseudo plants was from four to five inches in diam- .eter; the bottom a smooth film of some tenacity, and the upper surface divided into ascending fibres jof half« or three fourths of an inch long, resem- bling the gills of a fish, in transverse rows. A little further on was another smal^ muddy basin, in which the water was warm to the finger: in it was a vermes about half an inch long, moving with a serpentine, or vermicular motion. It was invariably observed, that the green matter form- ing on the stones and leaves, covered a stratum of calcarious earth, sometimes a little hard, or brittle, at others soft and imperfect. From the bottom of one of the hot si)rings a frequent ebuli* tion of gas was observed, which not having the {neans of collecting, they could not ascertain its nature ; it was not inflammable, and there is little doubt of its being carbonic acid, from the quan^ tity of lime^ and the iron, held in solution by the water. They made the followin|; rpugh estimate of th* '' :i t I '•L 1(1 m I m. #~ 4^ V<1' t78 • NEW TRAVELS quantity of water delivered by the springs. There are four principal springs, two of inferior note; one rising out of the gravel, and a number of drippings and drainings, all issuing from the mar- gin, or from under the rock which overhangs the creek. 0\' the four first mentioned, three deliver nearly equal quantities, but No. 1, the most con- siderable, delivers about five times as much as one of the other three; the two of inferior note may, together, be equal to one; and all the droppings, and small springs, are probably under-rated at double the quantity of one of the three; that is, all together, they will deliver a .quantity equal to eleven times the water issuing from the one most commodiously situated for measurement This spring filled a vessel of eleven quarts in eleven seconds, hence the whole quantity of hot water delivered from the springs at the base of the hill is 165 gallons in a minute, or 3771 hogsheads in 34 hours, which is equal to a handsome brook, and might work an overshot mill. In cool weather condensed vapour is seen rising out of the gravelr bed of the creek, from springs which cannot be taken into account. During the summer and fall, the creek re( iives little or no water but what is supplied by the hot springs; at that sAson itself is a hot bath, too hot, indeed, near the springs; so that a person may choose the temperature most agreeable to himself^ by selecting a natural basin near to, or farther fropi, the principal springs. At three or four miles below the springs the^)!iter is tepid and unpleasant to drink. AMOKO THE INOIArS. S7<; '" From the western mountain, estimated to be of equal height with that from which the hot springs flow, there are several fine prospects. The valley of the Washita, comprehended between the hills on either side, seemed a perfect, flat, and about twelve miles wide. On all hands were seen the hills, or mountains, as they are here called, rising behind each other. In the direction of north, the most distant were estimated to be fifty miles oft', and are supposed to be those of the Arkansa river, or the rugged mountains which divide the waters of the Arkansa from those of th^ Washita, and prevent the Osage Indians from visiting the latter, of whom they are supposed ignorant; otherwise their excursions here would prevent this place from being visited by white persons, or other In- dians. In a south-west direction, at about forty miles distance, is seen a perfectly level ridge, sup- posed to be the high prairies of the Red river. Notwithstanding t!ie severity of the weather, a considerable number, and some variety of plants were in flower, and others retained their verdure: indeed the ridge vas more temperate than the val- ley below; there it was cold, damp, and penetrat- ing; here dry, and the atmosphere mild. Of the plants growing here was a species of cabbage; the plants grow with expanded leaves, spreading on the ground, of a deep green, with a shade of pur- ple; the taste of the cabbage was plainly predomi- nant, with an agreeable warmth inclining to that of*the radish; several tap-roots penetrated into the $oil of a white colour, having the taste of horse- I- •"* I 280 . > K£W TRAVEL^ «i ^ radish, but much milder. A quantity pf then;^ taken to the camp and dressed, proved palatable and mild. It is not probable that cabbage seed has been scattered on this ridge; thp hunters ascendhig this river have always had diiFeren^ objects. .Until further elucidation, this cabbage must be considered as indigenous to this ^quesr tered quarter, and may be denqminated the cab* bage radish of the Washita. They found a plants then green, called by the French " rachine rougue," (red root), which is said to be a speciiip in female obstructions; \t has also beeu used, cora^ bined with the China root, to dye red, the la8( probably acting as a mordant. The top of thif ridge is covered with rocks of a flinty kind, an4 so very hard.as to be improper for gun-flints, fox when applied to that use it soon digs cavities ii^ the hammer of the lock. This hard stone is gen* erally white, but frequently clouded with red, brown, black, and other colours. Here and there fragments of iron stone were met with, and where a tree had been overturned, its roots brought to yiew fragments of schist us, which were su^ring decomposition from exposure to the atmosphere* » Qn digging where the slope of the hill was precipe < itous, they found the second stratum to be a red- dish clay, resembling that found on the conical hill^ east of th>3 camp. At two-thirds down the hill, the rock was a hard freestone, intermixed with fragments of flint which had probably rolled from aboye. Stil( lowei^ was found a blue schistus, in a state tending to decompositipn w)i(;re exposed I ..... AU0:M0 the INDIANS. ^$1 |o tl)€ atmosphere, l^ut hard and resembling coarse flate in the interior. Many stones had the appear? ance of Turkey oil stones: at the foot of the hil) ^t e:v:pands into good farming lands. Dr. Hunter, upon examining the waters of the bot springs, obtained the following results: •, It differed nothing from the hot water in smeU * pr taste, but caused a slight eructation shortly ffter drinking it. Its speci^c gravity is equal to raipi or distilled water. It gave to litamus paper, a slight degree of red- ness evincing the presence of the carbonic acid, or ^xed air sulphuric, and threw down a few de- tached particles. Oxylat of ammoniac caused a deposition and white cloud, shewing the presence <)f a small portioa of lime. Prusiat of potash pro* duced a slight and scarcely perceptible tinge of blue, designating the presence of a small quantity pfiron. Sixteen pounds of water evaporated to dryness, left ten grains of a grey powder, which proved to be lime. The myrtle wax tree grows in the vicmity of fhe springs. J^ the season in which the voyagers were there, the wax was no longer green, but had changed its colour to a greyish white, from itf long exposure to the weather. The berry, wliea examined by a microscope, is less than the small- est garden pea, approaching to an oval in form. The Duclus, or real seed, is the size of the seed of 9^ radish; and is covered with a number of kidney K- I w^M m ):Ai >■»(»; k ( c «82 ^' • NEW TRAVELS shaped glands, of a brown colour and sweet taste; these glands secrete the wax which completely envelopes them, and, at this season, gives to the whole thp appearance of an imperfectly white berry. This is a valuable plant and merits atten- ttion: Hs favourite position is a dry soil, rather poor, and looking down upon the water. It is well adapted to ornament the margins of canals^ lakes, or rivulets^ The cassina yapon, is equally beautiful, and proper for the same purpose; it grows here along the banks of this stony creek, intermingled with the myrtle, and bears a beauti- ful little red berry, very much resembling the red currant. - The rock through which the hot springs either pass or trickle over, appears undetermined by the waters of the creek. The hot water is continually depositing calcarious, and perhaps some siltcious matter, forming new rocks, always augmenting and projecting their promontories over the run- ning water of the creek, which prevents its forma- tion below the surface. Wherever this ctilcarious crust is seen spreading over the bank and margin of the creek, there, most certainly, the hot water will be found, either running ovef the surface, or through some channel, perhaps below the new rock, or dropping from the edges of the overhangs ing precipice. The progress of nature in the for- mation of this new rock is curious, and worthy the attention of the mineralogist. When the hot water issues from the fountain, it frequently spreads over a superficies of some extent : so far '^ AMONG THE INDIANS. 28S as it reaches on either hand, there is a deposition or growth of green matter. Several lamina of this green matter will be found lying over each other, and immediately under, and inxontact with the inferior lamina, which is not thicker than pa» per, is found a whitish substance resembling a co- agulum; when viewed with a microscope, this last is also found to consist of several, sometimes a good number of lamina, of which that next the green is the finest and thinnest, being the last .formed ; those below increasing in thickness and tenacity until the last terminates in a soft earthy .matter, which reposes in the more solid rock. Each lamina of the coagulum is penetrated in all its parts by calcarious grains, extremely minute, and divided in the more recent web, but much larger .and occupying the whole of the inferior lamina. The understratum is continually consolidating, jind adding bulk and height to the rock. When this acquires such an elevation as to stop the pas- sage of the water, it finds another course over the . xock, hill, 01 margin of the creek, formin^ in turn, .accumulations of matter over the whole x,. ^lie ad- jacent space. When the water has found itself a new channel, 'the green matter, which sometimes acquires a thickness of half an inch, is speedily con- verted into a rich vegetable earth, and becomes the food of plants. The surface of the calcarious rock also decomposes and forms the richest black ^ould, intimately mixed with a considerable por- tion of soil; plants and trees vegetate luxuriantly upon it , . , ,.,->,.,.,.,, \4 ■. > ' I 584 KEW TRAVEL* \ i. On examining a piece of jjround upon which the snow dissolved as it fell, and which was covered with herbage, they found, in some places, a calca- |-ious criist on the surface ; but in general a depth of from five inches to a foot of the richest black mould. The surface was sensibly warm to the touch. In the air the mercury in the Ihermome- ter stood at forty-four degrees ; when placed four inches under the surface, and covered with earth, it rose rapidly to sixty-eight degrees; and upon the ealcarious rock, eight inches beneath the surface, it rose to eighty degrees. This result was uniform ever the whole surface, which was about a quarter of an acre. On searching they found a spring, about fifteen inches under the surface, in the water of which the thermometer shewed a temperature- of J 30 degrees, Beneath the black mould was found a brown mix^ ture of lime and silex, very loose and divisible, ap* patently in a state of decomposition, and prot gressiog towarcls the formation of black mould ; under this brownish mass it became gradually whiter and harder, on the depth of from six to twelve inches, where it was a ealcarious sparkling stone. It was evident that the water had passed over this place, and formed a flat superficies of silicious lime stone: and that its position, nearly level, had facilitated the accumulation of earth, in proportion as the decomposition advanced. Sim^ lar spots of ground were found higher up the hilV resembling little savannas, near which hot springs were always discovered, which had once flowed AMOKO tUE iKDtANJ. S8S 4>V€r theni. It appears probable that the hot water of the springs, at an early period, liad all issued from its grand redervoir in the hill, at a much greater elevation than at present. The calcariou9 crust may be traced up, in most situations on the west side of the hill looking down the creek and valley^ to a certain height, and perhaps 100 feet perpendicular; in this region the hill rises preci- pitously, and is studded with hard silicious stones; below, the descent is more gradual, and the soil a calcarious black earth. It is easy to discriminate the primitive hill from that which has accumu- lated, by precipitation, from the water of the springs; this last is entirely confined to the west aide of the hill, and washed at its base by the wa- ters of the creek, no hot spring being visible in any other part of its circumference. By actual measurement along the base of tiie hill the influ- ence of tlie springs is found to extend seventy perches, in a direction a little to the east of north : along the whole of this space the springs have de- posited stony matter, calcarious, with an addition of silex, or crystalized lime. The accumulation of calcarious matter is more considerable at the north end of the hill than the south ; the first may be above 100 feet perpendicular, but sloping much more gradually than the primitive hill above, un- til it approaches tlie creek, where not unfrequently it terminates ia a precipice of from six to twenty feet. The difference between the primitive and IfCQudary hill is tp striking that a superficial ob^ ;H ■^li '-in \\i ■' tf tSfl NEW TRAVELS '\ server must notice it ; the first is ttguhtly very steep, and studded with rock and stone of the hardest flint, and other silicious compounds, and a superficies of two or three inciies of good mould covers £t red clay ; below, on the secondary hill, which carries evident marks of recent formatioui no flint* or silicious stone, is found ; the calcari- ous rock conceals all from view, and is itself fre- quently covered by much fine rich earth. It would aeem that this compound, precipitated from the hot waters, yields easily to tlie influence of the atmosphere ; for \vhere the waters cease to flow over any portion of the rock, it speedily decom- poses ; probably more rapidly from the heat, com- municated from the interior part of the hill, as insulated masses of the rock are observed to remain without change. . The cedar, the wax myrtle, and the cassina yapon, all evergreens, attach themselves parti- cularly to the calcarious region, and seem to grow and thrive even in the clefts of the solid rock. ; ; » A spring, enjoying a freedom 6f position, pro- ceeds Mrith great regularity in depositing the mat- ter it holds in solution; the border or rim of its basin forms an elevated ridge, from whence pro- ceeds a glacis all around, where the waters have flowed for some time over one part of the brim ; this becomes more elevated, and the water has to seek a passage where there is less resistance ; thus forming, in miniature, a crater, resembling in h tn AMONO THE INDIANS. 28f shape the conical summit of a volcano. The hill being steep above, the progress of petrifaction is stopped on that side, and the waters continue to flow and spread abroad, incrusting the whole face of the hill below. The last formed calcarious bor* der of the circular basin is soft, and easily divid- ed ; at a small depth it is more compact ; and at the depth of six inches it is generally hard ^vhite stone. If the bottom of the basin is stirred up, a quantity of the red calx of iron rises, and escapes over the summit of the crater. • ": Visitants to the hot springs, having observed shrubs and trees with the roots in the hot water, have been induced to try experiments, by sticking branches of trees in the run of hot water. Some branches of the wax myrtle were found thrust in- to the bottom of a spring run, the water of which was 130 degrees, by Farenheit's thermometer; the foliage and fruit of the branch were not only sound and healthy, but, at the surface of the water, roots were actually sprouting from it: on pulling it up the part which had penetrated the hot mud was found decayed. The green substance discoverable at the bottom of the hot springs, and which at first sight has the appearance of plush, on examination by the microscope, was found to he a vegetable produc- tion. A film of green matter spreads itself on the calcarious base, from which rise fibres more than half an inch in length, farming a beautiful vege- tation. Before the microscope it sparkled with I' I k r^ tat' I I- •0-; . * t8ft fiTW TRAtrilft innumerable tio^ules of lime^ some |>art of wbich was beautifully crystalized. This circumstance might cause a doubt of its being a true vegetable^ but its great resemblance to some of the mosses^ particularly the byssi, and the discovery which ]Mr. Dunbar made of its being the residence of animal life, confirmed his belief of its being a true moss. After a diligent search he discovered a very minute shell fish, of the bivale kind, inha- biting this moss; its shape nearly that of the fresh water muscle ; the colour of the shell a greyish brown, with spots of a purplish colour. Wlien the animal is undisturbed it opens the shell, and thrusts out four legs, very transparent, and arti- culated like those of a quadruped ; the extremi- ties of the fore legs are very slender and sharp, but those of the hind legs somewhat broader, ap- parently armed with minute toes : from the extre- mity of each shell issues three or four forked hairs* which the animal seems to possess the power of moving ; the fore legs are probably formed for making incisions into the moss for the purpose of procuring access to the juices of the living plant, upon which, no doubt, it feeds; it may be pro- vided with a proboscis, although it did not ap- pear while the animal was under examination : the hind legs are well adapted for propelling in its progress over the moss, Or through the water. « It would be desirable to ascertain the cause of that perpetual fire which keeps up the high tempe* ap. on: ling the je of AlU^najU^ INPIANS. £99 nturc of 90 many tprivgs as flow from this hill, at a considerable distance from each other: upon looking around> however, sufficient data for the* yohition of the difficulty are not discoverable* No<- thing of a volcanic nature is to be seen in thi? country; neither could they learn that any evi- dence in favour 'of such a supposition ^'*KEW TRAVELS i« present in this water; the springs may be sup- plied by the vapour of heated water, ascendhig from caverns where the heat is generated, or the heat may be immediately applied to the bottom of 9n immense natural caldron of rock, contained in the bowels of the hill, from which, as a reservoir, the springs may be supplied. A series of accurate observations determined the latitude of the hot springs to be 34 (leg. 31 niin. 4 sec. 16 N. and longitude 6 h. 11 min. 25 sec. or 92 deg. 50 min. 45 sec. west from the me- ridian t)f Greenwich. While Mr. Dunbar was making arrangements for transporting the baggage back to the river camp, Dr. Hunter, with a small party, went on an excursion into the country. He left the hot springs on the morning of the 27th, and after tra- velling sometimes over bills and deep craggy mountains, \vith narrow valleys between them, then up the valleys, and generally by the side of a branch emptying into the Washita, they reached the main branch of the Calfat in the evening, about twelve miles from the springs. The stones they met with during the first part of the day Were silicious, of a whitish grey, with flints, white, cream-coloured, red, &c. The beds of the rivulets, and often a considerable way up the^hills, shewed immense bo- dies of schistus, both blue and grey, some of it cffloressing and tasting strongly of alum. The lat- ter part of the day, they travelled over and be- tween hills of black, hard, and compact flint in slMpeless masses, with schist as before. On ascend- AMONG THE INDIANS. 291 ing these high grounds, you distinctly perceive the commencement of the piney region, beginning , at the height of sixty or seventy feet, and extend- ing to the top. The soil in these narrow valleys is thin and full of stones. The next day, which was stormy, they reached a branch of the liayau de Saline, which stretches towards the Arkansas and empties into the Washila many leagues below, having gone above twelve miles. Tlie mountains they had passed being of the primitive kind, which seldom produce metals, and having hitherto seen nothing of a mineral kind, a little poor iron ore excepted, and the face of the country, as far as they could see, presenting the same aspect, they returned to the camp and the hot springs, on the evening of the 30th, by another route, in which they met with nothing worthy notice. In consequence of the rains which had fallen, Mr. Dunbar, and those who were transporting the baggage to the river camp, found the road watery. The soil on the flat lands, under the stratum of ve- getable mould, is yellowish, and consists of decom- posed schistns, of which there arc immense beds in every stage of dissolution, from the hard stone recently uncovered and partially decomposed, to the yellow and apparently homogeneous earth. The covering of vegetable earth between the hills and the river is, in most places, sufficiently thick to constitute a good soil, being from four to six inches ; and it is the opinion of the people upon the Washita, that wheat will grow here to great per' fection. Although the higher hills, three hundred u 91 * M SOS NEV TRAVgU to SIX hundred feet in height, are very rocky, yet the inferior hills, and the sloping bases of the first, are generally covered with a soil of a middling quality. The natural productions are sufficiently luxuriant, consisting chiefly of black and red oak, intermixed with a variety of other woods, and a considerable undergrowth. Even on these rocky hills are three or four species of vines, said to pro- duce annually an al)undance of excellent grapes. A great variety of plants which grow here, some of which in their season are said to produce flow- ers highly ornamental, would probably reward the researches of the botanist. On the morning of the 8th of Jf^nuary, 1805, the party left £llis*8 on the river camp; where they had been detained for several days, waiting fur such a rise in the waters of the river, as would carry their boat in safety over the numerous rapids be- low. A rise of about six feet, which bad taken , place the evening before, determined them to move this morning; and they passed the chuttes about one o'clock. They stopped to examine the rocky promontory below these falls, and took some speci- mens of the stone which so much resembles the Turkey oil stone. It appears too hard. The strata of this chain were observed to run perpendicularly neaill^ east and west, crossed by fissures at right angles from five to eight feet apart; the lamina from one fourth of an inch to five inclies in thick- ness. About a league below, they landed at Whetstone hill« and took several specimens* This projecting hill is a mass of^reyish blue vchistus of AMONG THE INDIANS. $9^ considerable hardness, and about twenty feet per- pendicular, net regularly so, and from a quarter to two inches in thickness, but does not split with an even surface. They landed again on the morning of the ptli, in sight of the bayau de la prairie de champignole, to examine and take specimens of some free stone, and blue slate. The sUte is a blue schistus, hard« brittle, and unfit for the covering of a house ; none proper for that purpose have been discovered, except on the Calfat, which Dr. Hunter met with in one of his excursions. On the evening of the 10th they encamped neaf Arclon's Troughs^ having been only three days in descending the distance which took them thir^ teeh to ascend. They stopped some time at th6 tAtnp of a Mr. Le Fevre. He is an intelligent man, a native of the Illinois^ but now residing at the Arkansas. He came h^re with some Delaware and other Indians, whom he had fitted out with goods, and receives their peltry, f\ir^ &c. at a stipulated pricOi as it is brought til by the hunv'*''« Mr. Le FeVre possesses consid<^fabIe ktiowledge of the in- terior of the country ; he confirths tht accounts before obtained^ that th«2 hills or mountains which give rise to this lihle river, are, iti a ntanner, insu-i> lated ; that is, they are entirely shut in and inclosed by the immense plains or prairies which extend beyond the Red river< to the south, and beyond the l^issouri, or at least some of its branches, to the north, and range alpirig the <;astern base of the gjreat ehain, or diTidiil|g rtdgie^ conlfmohlj^ known I 1 1 u 294 . NEW TRAVELS by the name of the Sand Hills, which separate the waters of the Mississippi from those M'hich fall in- to the Pacific ocean. The breadth of this great plain is not well ascertained. It is said by some to be at certain parts, or in certain directions, not less than two hundred leagues; but it is agreed by all who have a knowledge of the western country, that the mean breadth is at least two thirds of that dis- tance. A branch of the Missouri, called the river Plaite, or shallow river, is said to take its rise so far south as to derive its first waters from the neigh- bourhood of the sources of the Red and Arkansa rivers. By the expression plains or prairies in this place, is not to be understood a dead flat, resem- bling certain savannas, whose soil is stiff and im» penetrable, often under water, and bearing only a coarse grass resembling reeds; very different are the western prairies, which expression signifies only a country without timber. These prairies are neither flat nor hilly, but undulating into gentle swelling lawns, and expanding into spacious valleys, in the centre of which is always found a little timber growing on the banks of the brooks and rivuleti of the finest waters, j ^,\ , .',nhy^^ ^»# ♦*» i » J r The whole of these prairies are represented to be composed of the richest and most fertile soil ; the iHost luxuriant and succulent herbage covers the surface of the earth, interspersed with millions of flowers and flowering shrubs, of the most or- namental kinds. Those who have viewed only a skirt of these prairies, speak of them with enthu- siasm^ js if it was only there that nature was to be AMONG THE INDIANS. 295 found i -uly perfect ; they declare, that the ferti- tility aijd beauty of the rising grounds, the extreme richness of the vales, the coolness and excellent quality of the water found in every valley, the salu- brity of the atmosphere, and above all the gran- deur of the enchanting landscape which this coun- try presents, inspire the soul with sensations not to be felt in any other region of the globe. This paradise is now very thinly inhabited by a few tribes of savages, and by the immense herds of wild cattle, ( bison ) which people these countries. The cattle perform regular migrations, according to the seasons, from south to north, and from the plains to the mountains; and in due time, taught by their instincts, take a retrograde direction. These tribes move in the rear of the herds, and pick up jstragglers, and such as lag behind, which they kill with the bow and arrow for their sub- sistence. This country is not subjected to those very sudden deluges of rain which in most hot coun|:ri€s, and even in the Mississippi territory, tear up and sweep away, with irresistible fury, the crop and soil together: on' the contrary, rain is said to become more rare iu proportion as the great chain of mountains is approached ; and it would seem that within the sphere of the attraction of those elevated ridges, little or no rain falls on the adjoining plains. This relation is the more credi- ble, as in that respect our new country may re-f semble other flat or comparatively low countries, similarly situated ; such as the country lying bc- tsjreen the Andes and the western Pacific ^ the ^3> 11 ^^^. • 4 *ii fi§« ittif TtAYtti > 10 plains are supplied with nightly dews io ektte^ely abundant, as to have the effect df refreshing showers of rain ; and the spacious valleys, which are extremely level, may, with facility, be watered by the rills and brooks, Which are never absent from these situations. Such is the description of the better known country lying to the south of Red river, from Nacogdoches towards St. Antonio, iil the province of Taxus ; the richest crops are said td be procured there without rain; but agricuU ture in that country is at a low ebb ; the stndl quantities of maize furnished by the country, is said to be raised without cultivation. A rude op6n«> ing is made in the earth, sufficient to deposit tlit grain, at the distance of four or five feety in ir* regular 8t|Uares, and the rest is left to nature. The soil is tender, spongy, and rich, and seeniis always to retain humidity suffieient, with the bduntedus dews of Heaven, to bring the crops td maturity. The Red and Arkansa rivers, whdse courses are very long, pass through portions of this fine Coun« try. They are both navigable to an unknown dis* tanee by boats of proper construction ; the Ar* kansa river is, however, understood to have greatly the advantage with respect to the facility of navigation. Some difficult places are met with in the Red river below the Nakitosh, after which it is good for one hundred and fifty leagues (proba- bly computed leagues of the country, about two miles each ; ) there the voyager meets with a vety serious obstacle, the commencement of the " raft,*' a$ it is called; that is, a natural covering which • AMOHd tHl II^tirANS. S97 couceskls the whole river fbr an extent of seventeen leagues, continually augmenting by the driftwood brought dowtl by every considerable fresh. This covering, which, for a considerable time was only ^rift-wodd, now sUj)|)ort6 a vegetation of every thing abounding in the neighbouring forest, not excepting tree6 of a Considerable size; and th6 river may be frequently parsed without any know- ledge of its iBxi$tence< It is said that the annual inundation id opening for itself a new passage through, the low grounds near the hills ; but it tnust be long befoi-e nature,, unaided. Will excavate a fiassage sufficient for the waters of Red River. About fifty leagues above this natural bridge^ is the residence of the Cadeaux or Cadaduquis na-^ tion, whose good qualities are already mentioned. The bbabitaiUd estimate the post of N&kitosh to be half way between New Orleans and the Cadeaux natiOQk Above this point the navigation of Red River iis ^aid to be embarrassed by m^ny rapids, falls atid ^hallow^. The Arkansa River is said to ftre^nt a safCj agreeable and uninterrupted navi- gation as high as it is known. The lands un each 6ide are of the best quality, and well watered M'ith BpringSj brooks and riviilets, afi^brding many situ- Ikiidtii for miU-seatS; From description it would «eem that along this river there is a regular gra- dation of hill and dale, presenting their extremi- ties to the river ; the hills are gently swelling emi- irenceS) and the dales Spacious vallies with living water meandering through them ; the forests con^ Ai»l ^ hdudtome trees, chiefly what is called open ♦ !i . 'i - ti 'i,^ J98 . NEW TRAVELS .'J/'' o.. woods. The quality of the land is -supposed supe- rior to that on Red River, unill it ascends to the prairie country, where the lands on both rivers are probably similar. About two hundred leagues up the Arkansa is an interesting place called the Salt Prairie; there is a considerable fork of the river there, and a kind of savanna where the salt water is continually oozr ing out and spreading over the surface of a plain. During the dry summer season the salt may be raked up in large heaps ; a natural crust of a hand breadth in thickness is formed at this season. This place is not often frequented, on account of the danger from the Osage Indians : much less dare the white hunters venture to ascend higher, where it is generally believed, that silver is to be found. It is further said, that high up the Arkansa River salt is found in form of a solid, and may be dug put with the crow-bar. The waters of the Ar- kansa, like those of Red River, are not potable during the dry season, being both charged highly with a reddish earth or mould, and ex:tremely brackish. ^^ ' ' ' ; This inconvenience is not greatly feU upon the Arkansa, where springs and brooks of fresh water are frequent; the Red River is understood not to be so highly favoured. Every account seems to prove that immense natural magazines of salt must exist in the great chain of mountains to the west- ward ; as all the rivers in the summer season, which flow from them, are strongly impregnated Yfith that mineral, and are only rendered palatable AMONG THE INDIANS. 299 after receiving the numerous streams of fresh water which join them in their course. Tlie great west- ern prairies, besides the herds of wild cattle, ( bi- son, commonly called buifaloe) are also stocked M'ith vast numbers of wild goat (not resembling the domestic goat) extremely swift footed. As the description given of this goat is not perfect, it may from its swiftness prove to be the antelope or it possibly may be a goat which has escaped from the Spanish settlements of New Mexico. A Canadian, who had been much with the Indians to the westward, speaks of a wool- bearing animal larger than a sheep, the wool much mixed with hair, which he had seen in large flocks. He pre- tends also to have seen a unicorn, the single horn of which, he says, rises out of the forehead and curls back, conveying the idea of the fossil cornu ammonis. This man says he has travelled beyond the great dividing ridge so far as to have seen a large river flowing to the westward. The great dividing mountain is so lofty that it requires two days to ascend from the base to its top ; other ranges of inferior mountains lie before and behind it; they are all rocky and sandy. Large lakes and vallies lie between the mountains. Some of the lakes are so large as to contain considerable islands ; and rivers flow from some of them. Grtat numbers of fossil bones, of very large dimensions, are seen among the mountains, which the Cana- dian sCipposcs to be the elephant. He does not pretend to have seen any of the precious metals, but has seen a mineral which he r\ i;]' $00 NEW TRAVELS supposes might yield copper. From the top of the high muuDtain the view is bounded by a curve as upon the oc^an, and extends over the most beau-> tiful prairies, which seem to be unbounded^ par'^ ticularly towards the east. The finest of the lands lie has seen are on the Missouri ; no othet can compare in richness and fertility with them. This Canadian, as well as Le Fevre, speaks of the Osa* ges of the tribe of Whitehairs, as lawless and un- principled : and the other Indian tribes hold them in abhorrence as a barbarous and uncultivated rac^^ ind the different nations who hunt in their neigh- bourhood, have their concerting plans for theii^ destruction. On the morning of the llth> thd party passed the petit ecor a FabH. The osier which grows on the beaches above, is not seen below upon the river; and here they began to meet with the small tree called ' Charnier' which * grows only on the water side, and is met with all the way dowh the Washita. The latitude of 3S deg. 40 sec. seems the northern boundary of th^ one, and the southern boundary of the other of Ihese vegetables. Having noticed the limit set to the king moss, (Te)andsia) on the ascent of thti Met, in latitude 33 deg. Mr. Dunbar made in-^ quiry of Mr. Le Fevre, as to its existence on thiei Arkansa settlement, which \i known to lie in about the iame parallel; he satd, that its growth is limited about ten miles south of the settlement^ and that as remarkably, as if a line had been drawn east and west for th6 purpose ; as it ceases all at once, and hot by degrees. Hence it appears^ that of to the m th nt, AMO|fO THE INDIANS. 301 uature has marked with a dii^tinguishii g featlire, the line established by congress, between the Or- leans and Louisiana territories. The cypress is not found on the Washita higher than thirty-four degress of north latitude. In descending the river> tliey found their rate of going to exceed that of the current about six miles and a half in twenty-four hours ; and that on the ]2th, they had passed the apex of the tide or wave, Qccasioned by the fresh, and were descending along an incliued plain ; as they encamped at night, they found themselves in deeper water th^ pext morning, and on a more elevated part of tliei inclined plain than they had been in the preceding evenings from the progress of the apex of the tide during their repose. At noQD, on the 10th, they reached the post of the Washita. • ,-- Mr. Dunbar being anxious to reach the Natchez « 9S early as possible, and being unable to pre cure horses at the post, t( ok a canoe with one soldier and his owe domestic, to push down to the Cata- hoola, from whence to Concord there is a road of thirty miles across the low grounds. He set off early on the morning of the ^Oth, and at night; reached the settlement of an old huuter, with whom he had conversed on his way up the river. This man informed him, that at the place called the mine, on the Little Missouri, there is a smoke which ascends perpetually from a particular place, and that the vapour is sometimes insupportable. The river, or a braj^t^h of it, passes over a bed of > III ^^^'. 302 NEW TRAVELS mineral, which from the description given is, no doubt, martial pyrites. In a creek, or branch of the Fourche a Luke, there is found on the beaches and in the cliffs, a great number of globular bo- dies, some as large, or larger, than a man's head, which, when broken, exhibit the appearance of gold, silver, and precious stones ; most probably pyrites and crystalized spar. And at the Four- che des Glaises a Paul, (higher up the river than Fourche a Luke,) near the river there is a cliff full of hexagonal prisms, terminated by pyramids which appear to grow out of the rock : they are from six to eight inches in length, and some of them are an inch in diameter. There are beds of pyrites found in several small creeks communi* eating with the Washita, but it appears that the mineral indications are greatest on the Little Mis- sourr; because, as before noted, some of the hun- * ters actually worked on them, and sent a parcel of the ore to New Orleans. It is the belief here, that the mineral contains precious metal, but that the Spanish government did not choose a mine should , be opened so near to the British settlements. An express prohibition was issued against working these .iiiues. >;- f At this place, Mr. .Dunbar obtained one or two slips of the "hois de arc," (bow wood or yellow wood,) from the Missouri. The fruit which had fallen before the maturity, and lay upon the ground. Some were the size of a small orange, with a rind full of tubercles ; the colour, though it appeared faded, still retained ^ resemblance to pale gold. • 2 ■^«:' nd red AMONG THE INDTIANS. S03 Tl»e tree in its native soil, when laden with its golden fruit, (nearly as large as the egg of an os- trich,) presents the most splendid appearance; its. foliage is of a deep green, resembling the var- nished leaf of the orange tree ; upon the whole, no forest tree can compare with it in ornamental grandeur. The bark of the young tree resembles, in texture, the dog-wood bark; the appearance of the vvdod recommends it for trial as an article 'which may yield a yellow dye. It is deciduous; the branches are numerous, and full of short thorns or prickles, which seem to point it out as proper for hedges or live fences. This tree is known to exist near the Nakitosii (perhaps in latitude 32 deg.) and upon the river Arkansa, high up (per- haps in lat. 36 deg.) it is therefore probable that it may thrive from latitude 38 deg. to 40, and will be a great .acquisition to the United Stated if it possesses no other merit than that of being orna* « mental. " In descending the river, both INir. Dunbar and Dr. Hunter searched for the place said to yield gypsum, or plaister of Paris, but failed. The for- mer gentleman states, that he has no doubt of its existence, having noted two places wlvere it has been found; one of which, is the first hill, or high land which touches the river on the west, above the Bay.au Calumet, and the other is the se- cond high land on the same side. As these are two points of the same continued ridge^ it is pro- bable that an immense body of gypsum will be 1' • * 4.- 1^. '*4 > 4 "^ n 304 NEW TRAVELS found in the bowelt of the hills whero they meet, and perhaps extending far beyond them. On the evening of the 22d, Mr. Dunbar arriv* ed at the Catahoola, where a Frenchman of the name of Hebrard, who keeps the ferry across Black river, is settled. Here the road from tlic Washita forks, one branch of it leading to iho fcttlement on Ked river, and the other up to the post on the Washita. The proprietor of this place has been a hunter and a great traveller up the Washita into the western country : lie confirms generally the accounts received from others. It appears, from what they say, that in the neigh-> bourhood of the hot springs, but higher up, among the mountains, and upon the Little Missouri, dur* ing the summer season, explosions are very fre* quently heard, proceeding from under the ground and ,^ot rarely a curious phenomenon is seen, which is termed the blowing of the mountains ; it is confined elastic gas forcing a passage through the side or top of a hill, driving before it a great quantity of earth and mineral matter. During the winter season the explosions and blowing of the mountains entirety cease, from whence we may conclude, that the cause is comparatively su* perficial, brought into action by the increased beat of the more direct rayir^of the summer sun. The confluence of the Washita, Catahoola and ^ Tenza is an interesting place. The last of these communicates with the Mississippi low lands, by the iutervention of other creeks and lakes, and by Que in particular, called " Bayau d' Argent," which we kese by by lich AMONO THE INDIAVS. 305 empties into the Mississip|>i, about fourteeu miles above Natchez. During liigli water there is a navigation for batteaux of any Imrthen along the bayau. A large luke> called St. John's lake, oc* cupies a considerable part of tlie passage between the Mississippi and the Tenza: it is in a horse- shoe form, and has, at some former period, been the bed of the Mississippi: the nearest part of it is about one mile removed from the river p.t the present time. This lake, possessing elevated banks similar to those of the river, has been lately occu- pied and improved. Tbe Catahoola bayau is the third navigable stream: during the time of the inundation there is an excellent communication by the lake of that name, and from thence, by large creeks, to the Red river. The comitry around the point of union of these three rivers is altoge- ther alluvial, but the place of Mr. liebrard's resi- dence is no longer subject to inundation. There is no doubt, that as the country augments in po- pplation and riches, this place will becc ac the site of a commercial inland town, which will keep pace with the progress and prosperity of tlie coun- try. One of the Indian mounts here is of a con- siderable elevation, with a species of rampart, sur- rounding a large space, which was, no doubt, the position of a fortified town. .,;; While here Mr. Dunbar met with an American, who pretended to have been up the Arkansa river three hundred leagues. The navigation of this river he says is good to t\iat distance, for boats ^ 1 306 NEW THAVKLS '-''A i'j 1 1- drawing three or four feet water. Implicit faith, perhaps, ought not to be given to his relation, re- specting the quantity of silver he pretends to have collected there. He says he has found silver on the Washita, thirty leagues ahove the hot springs^ so rich, that three pounds of it yielded one pound of silver, and this was found in a cave. He asserts, also, that the ore of the mine upon the Little Mis- souri, was carried to Kentucky, by a person of the name of Bon, where it was found to yield largely in silver. This man says he has been up the Red river likewise, aiKl that there is a great rapid just below the raft, or natural bridge, and and several others above it; that the Caddo nation is about fifty leagues above the raft, and near to their village commences the country of the great prairies, which extend four or five hundred miles to the west of the sand mountains, as they are termed. These great plains reach far beyond the Red river to the south and northward over the Arkansa river, and among the numerous branches of the Missouri. He confirms the account of the beauty and fertility of the western country. Ou the morning of the 25th, Mr. Dunbar set out, on horseback, from the Catahoola to Natchez. The rain whicii had fallen on the preceding days rendered the roads \/ct and muddy, and it was two in the afternoon before he reached the Bavau Crocodile, which is considci'ed half wtxy between the Black river and the Mississippi. It is one of the numerous creeks iu the low grounds, which his 4^ set thez. jdays was favau Iween le of rliich AMONG THE IMDFANS. 807 assist in venting the waters of the inundation. On the margins of the water courses the lands are highest, and produce canes; they fall off, in the rear, into cypress swamps and lakes. The waters of the Mississippi were rising, and it was with some difficulty that they reached a house near Concord that evening. This settlement was he* gun since the cession of Louisiana to the United States, by citizens of the Mississippi territory, whp have established their residence altogether upon newly-acquired lands taken up under the authority of the Spanish commandant, and have gone to the expense of improvement either in the names of themselves or others, before the 20th of December, 1803, hoping thereby to hold their new possession under the sanction of the law. Exclusive of the few actual* residents on the banks of the Mississippi, there are two very hand* some lakes in the interior, on the banks of which similar settlements have been made. He crossed at the ferry, and at mid-day of the S6th reached his own house. / Dr. Hunter, and the remainder of the party, followed Mr. Dunbar, down the Washita, with the boat in which they ascended the river, and» ascending the Mississippi, reached St. Catharine's landing on the morning of the 3 Ist January, 1805. i 308 NEW TRAVELS .'1- - * 't . Common Names of some of ^ ike Trees, Shruhs and Plants growing in the Vicinity of Washita. Three kinds of ,wliite oak, four kinds of red oak, black oak, three kinds of hickory, one of which has an oblong nut, white and good, chink- apin, three kinds of ash, one of which is the prickly, three kinds of elm, two kinds of maple, two kinds of pine, red cedar, sweet gum, black gum, linden, two kinds of iron-w^ood, growing on high and low lauds, sycamore, box elder, holly, sweet bay, laurel, magnolia accuminata, black walnut, filbert, buckeye, dogwood, three kinds of locust, the three-thorned and honey locust, hazel, beech, wild plumb, the fruit red, but not good, bois d'arc (bow wood) called also bois jaune (yellow wood) a famous yellow dye, three kinds pf hawthorn, with berries, red, scarlet and black, lote tree, for Indian arrows, bois de carbane, a small growth, and proper for hoops, two kinds of osier, myrtle, tooth-ach tree and magnolia. A vine, bearing large good black grapes in bunches, black grape, hill grape, yellow grape, muscadine, or fox grape, and a variety of other vines. The saw briar, single rose briar, and china root briar, wild gooseberry, with a dark red fruit, three kinds of whortle berry, wild pomegranate, passion flower, two sorts of sumach, winter's ber- ry, winter's green, a small red farinaceous berry like a haw, on a plant one inch high, which grows under the snow, and is eaten by the Indians, the c. I'atcic JiUOVG THE INDIANS. S09 •ilk plant, wild endive, wild olive, pink root, snake root, wild mint of three kinds, coloquintida (bit- ter apple) growing along the river side, clover, sheep's clover, life everlasting, ■» ild liquorice, ma- lygold, inissletoe> thistle, wild hemp, bull rush, dittany,, white and red poppy, yellow jessamine, poke, fern, capiUair, honeysuckle, mosses, petu to make rope with, wormwood, hops, ipecacuanha, persicaria, Indian turnip, wild carrot, wild oniou* finger, w^ld cabbage, and bastard ii^digo. •■"?,.; /■'■ [i".- ■^^\. I V '4 ,■' » {;■} v. '■''.*\r ^:\- ■'■■ ■. i/t'f.'.-^-'i-'i-' I ■A. ; '/ , '-. '». ' «/ ■>■■» .<^', .:V C. Stower^ IViBlwj>