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Les cartes, planciies, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. errata I to i pelure, on d ■ 1 2 3 [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 / ALL ROUND THE WORLD 'idvoiturcs ill liuropL\ ^1 sia^ . Ifrira, and yJ III eric a. Bv PARKER GlLLMORi:, "Uiii(,)rK." AUTHOK OF 'CIN, XOD, AN I) SADDLIC ;' ' ACCKSSllil.K I'l KI.D SPOKTS,' .>ic, .tc. itc;. ^'s^ \\\ SIDNKV 1'. HALL. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193. PICCADILLY. 1871. .'.. :*!• ^i j t ^ B M jB f M ^iwrsLB g n wp^WiffiP** 51 t7 CONTENTS. Boyhood and Mischief . . . iMv First Stekplkchase A Run with the Gibraltar Foxhounds Rambles in Spain .... Barbary Field Sports . . . Afloat in the Mediterranean and Ashore in North Africa .... An Indian Hunting Encampment . / . First Blood ..... A Sharp Burst ..... The Storm ..... A Veteran Boar . . . . . The Search for the Murderer . The Tiger's Death A Forest Scene .... Catching a Shark . . Tricking an Alligator Fast on a Coral Reef . A Battle in a Billiard Room Chased by a Buffalo . . . Among Chinese Pirates Shooting near Hong Kong Drifting to Death . I'ACF I i6 29 39 47 61 67 75 82 88 95 105 J13 120 125 131 138 143 149 157 164 175 Iv Contents. Chap. "•■^'k XXI II. Wild Duck Shooting . . . . 1S3 XXIV. FiKsr Hurdle Rack in Japan . . 200 XXV. Voyagk through the Japanese Inland Seas ao6 XXVI. El Dorado ..... 219 XXVII. A Dav in Sonora . . . . -227 XXVIII. The Parks of America . . .234 XXIX. A Hunting Misadventure . . .251 XXX. Career of an Emigrant . . .261 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Tropical Pall-Bearers " Last Chance," late "Now or Never" At Bay Our Camp incapaele of mischief A Rude Intrusion The Patriarch's Attendants . ALL ROUND THE WORLD. CHAPTER I. BOYHOOD AND MISCHIEF. MY FATHER was a good and ardent sportsman ; as a shot he was inferior to few, while I have never met any person who could beat him as a fly-fisher- man ; even till the last days allotted him on earth, he could find pleasure by the brawling stream, and although his eye had lost its brilliancy and his hand its quick- ness, still numerous were the fine trout and salmon that rewarded his labour. Doubtless it is from my father that I inherit this enthusiasm for field sports which has induced me to seek game in almost every portion of the globe, not only for the sake of slaughter, but in order to study their habits and instincts. Nor am I satiated ; the table may lose its attractions, the wine cup cease to gratify, and the majority of the amusements of youth become stale and tedious, still I crave for those inno- B All Round the World. cent pleasures which man enjoys to perfection when alone with nature, away from the strife and turmoil of society, where the gun and rifle are his truest and most trustworthy friends. The first episode in field sports I can remember was hunting water-rats, by the side of a beautiful trout- stream that flowed round the lower portion of the grounds attached to my boyhood's home. In those days I possessed a brace of terriers, which were my constant associates ; they understood my voice as well as if they had been of my own race ; they obeyed my orders more promptly than any Eastern slave ; there existed between us a bond of affection that was inde- scribable, yet all-powerful. Wherever I went, they ac- companied me ; whether it was to fish, walk, or ride. Quiz and Gip were never far off, and at night they frequently became my bedfellows. In the autumn, when the crops had been gathered and housed, the unfortunate rats sought seclusion and shelter among the tangled weeds and rushes that mar- gined the stream, for the scythe of the reaper had ex- posed their ordinary retreats and hiding-places. As soon as lessons were over, I and my canine pets repaired to our hunting-ground. The dogs knew well their work ; every possible hiding-place was beaten ; flags, burrs, or waterlilies, were thoroughly scrutinised, till at length a hole containing our game was found, or a new and strong trail discovered. A sharp quick bark would indicate the welcome news, and the fun and ex- citement soon became fast and furious. At length the game is driven to the water ; a sudden splash, as if a 1.' a s n a S( w f( p a bi a tl b( W e: g> to Vorld. ji,iuj!ii: i ^nn i| ai ■ 3 to perfection when strife and turmoil of ; are his truest and I can remember was of a beautiful trout- 3\vcr portion of the )d's home. In those riers, which were my lod my voice as well ice ; they obeyed my Eastern slave ; there ection that was inde- ever I went, they ac- :o fish, walk, or ride, [if, and at night they )s had been gathered sought seclusion and and rushes that mar- )f the reaper had ex- liding-places. I and my canine pets The dogs knew well ig-place was beaten ; horoughly scrutinised, ir game was found, or A sharp quick bark and the fun and ex- irious. At length the mdden splash, as if a Boy/iood and Mischief. stone had been rolled from the bank, tells the story, and one or botii the dogs jump into the stream in |)ursuit, and swim to the centre, awaiting the reajjpearance of the foe. Over a minute elapses; all our nerves are strung to the utmost tension from e.xcitement, when \x\y comes the rat, possibly many yards from where his enemies await him ; but their vision is sharp ; the first break on the surface caused by the head of the pursued is sufllcient for their quick sight, and at the unfortunate they go. A stroke more, and one might fancy the ])ursued would be in Quiz's clutches. Not so. Just as the dog is about to seize the prey, the crafty rodent dives, and this game is played again and again, till the poor vermin, exliausted and half drowned, fails to get below the surface with sufficient rapidity, and so loses its life. When I was about twelve, a great event took place in my hunting career. It was at the end of autumn, and a cold, wintry sun illuminated the joyless land- scape. I was returning home after a long tramp, while my companions (the dogs) trotted wearily at heel, for they had run themselves almost to a stand-^till in pursuit of hares and rabbits. Suddenly they both uttered a short quick yelp and rushed from me. I followed at best speed, and just as I turned a corner of hedge, I saw a large polecat enter a dilapidated piece of wall not more than a couple of yards in front of his pursuers. Rats had been large game previously, but here was an adversary that far eclipsed them. Never had I seen the dogs so excited ; they positively screamed out their rage, and even gnawed the stones that afforded a temporary sanctuary to their enemy. An hour's labour failed to dislodge the B 2 iii All KoumUJw World. foe, and my success appeared more than dc ihlfiil, when a labourer came u|) and heljicd me to demolisli tlie old structure of j^ranite and mortar. Hereupon the polecat, fiiulinj^ the position untenable, made a sally, but he was unable to fij^ht throu^di his foes, and a moment later ^Mine little Gip had him by the loins, in a jjrip which would have killed a much larger adversary. The odour which the polecat emitted during our efforts to get at him, and after his death, did not frighten the dogs. On the con- trary, ever afterwarils, when such an effluvia would greet their nostrils, the hair on their backs would rise, and their eyes flash with more than ordinary excitement. My first shooting experiences began at school in the neighbourhood of the beautiful town of Hamilton, Lanarkshire. On returning, after the holidays, one of our number related how, during his visit at home, he had fired a gun and killed the object of his' aim. He dilated with such flowing language upon the pleasures of shoot- ing, and the easiness of becoming a crack shot, that we all became smitten with an eager longing to be pos- .scssors of a gun. A collection among my schoolfellows, amounting to twelve and sixpence, was made for this purpose, and a committee of three appointed to super- intend the outlay of the public funds. The starter of the idea was of course selected as one of the honourable trio, for he had become a great man, in the estimation of his fellows, since his home-exploits. I also was honoured with office, because my father was a military man, and because I was destined to serve my Queen and country, and was therefore expected to know more of fire-arms and their use than the common crowd. The oflii. Iian (If ihlfiil, wluMi a to (li'ni:)li.sh tlic old ca-iipoii tile polecat, _• a sally, but lie was a moment later ^aiiie a jjrip which woiiiil ^ The odour which ts to get .It him, and dofjs. On the con- I effluvia would {,'reet cks would rise, and nary excitement, gaii at school in the town of Hamilton, the holidays, one of visit at home, he had his aim. He dilated le pleasures of shoot- i crack shot, that we longing to be pos- ing my schoolfellows, ;, was made for this appointed to super- nds. The starter of )ne of the honourable m, in the estimation :ploits. I also was "ather was a military serve my Queen and ed to know more of ommon crowd. The Hoy hood and Mischief. third — and here the sense of my countrymen was exhi- bited — was selected for hi.s shrewdnes.s in making bar- gains, for aithoutjh he never spent any mouL-y or brought l)laytliings from home, yet always before the term was over his stock of tops, marbles, bats, and balls exceeded ill others. What ho was in boyhood, he is now in mature years — a wealthy but still hard-working successful foreifjn merchant. Having secretly made enquiries, one Saturday after- noon wc sallied forth to visit a tinkering gunsmith. Long and serious was our conference ; at length a bargain was struck — I might rather say that we obtained three bargains ; namely, an old and dilapidated gun-stock, the lock of an anti(|uated horse-pistol, and a barrel, red with rust, but declared to be of most superior quality. The smith undertook to put these together, and have them ready for use that day week. The intermediate time passed slowly. Friday had arrived, when a most serious and previously unforeseen difficulty arose. Who was to go for the gun .' All shirked this responsible duty; to carry fire-arms, even through back streets, in broad daylight was more than any one dared. First one was saddled with the task, then another, each in his turn being accused of cowardice when he refused. Angry words ensued, and even a battle in which one of the combatants got a severe black eye. At length we determined to cast lots to decide who was to perform the objectionable office, and the unlucky number fell to me. Scl; ol was dismissed at the usual hour on the important Saturday; my com- panions were to assemble in a little copse in a neighbour- All Rotcnd the World. ing orchard, where I was to join them with the gun. When I reached the gunsmith, and received our pur- chase, I confided my fears to its vendor. Fortunately I did so, for he truly proved a friend, and despatched his assistant with the treasure to the place of rendezvous, which I reached by a different route. With due com- ments, and advice from all, under the supervision of the gunsmith's boy, our single barrel was loaded. To whom was the honour of the first shot to be confided "i With universal acclamation, the companion who had shot during the holidays was selected ; but to our surprise he modestly declined the offer. Some went so far as to say he was a muff and afraid, and had never fired a gun in his life ; but even such insinuations would not alter his determination. As the gunsmith's assistant was second choice, he took the weapon wnth the air of a man ; his courage and manner made a great impression, and he temporarily became a hero. Next, for a victim. Each limb and bough was searched, and at length an unfortu- nate robin, whistling, yet shivering in the cold autumnal atmosphere, was found ; the crowd halted, the adven- turous marksman advanced ; some dared the advice that " Now was the time ! You are close enough ! " What impertinence to pretend to know more of projectiles and their range than a gunmaker's assistant ! Closer, closer he crept, with cautious measured stride ; every be- holder held his breath ; not five yards severed the songster from his deslroyer ; the gun was raised, an aim taken, oh ! such a long aim — from its length doubtless we considered it very deadly ; a report fol- lowed, all rushed to the scene, and scarcely more than orld. them with the gun. id received our pur- ndor. Fortunately I , and despatched his place of rendezvous, ite. With due com- r the supervision of rel was loaded. To shot to be confided .'' panion who had shot )ut to our surprise he went so far as to say id never fired a gun IS would not alter his assistant was second he air of a man ; his t impression, and he for a victim. Each at length an unfortu- in the cold autumnal d halted, the adven- dared the advice that )se enough ! " What lore of projectiles and jtant ! Closer, closer d stride ; every be- i yards severed the gun was raised, an n — from its length leadly ; a report fol- d scarcely more than Boyhood and Mischief. 7 a bunch of feathers remained to tell the talc of the murdered robin ! Various were our successes that day ; we brought down a blackbird and thrush, while I winged a house-sparrow. Then with our game and the gun dismembered we stealthily, like guilty marauders, sought the awe-inspiring school-precincts. Shooting was, you may suppose, the sole subject of tllat evening's conversation. Those who had been so fortunate as to kill were heroes ; those who had missed were never tired asking for details which might ensure success. As our gun required washing after so much work, a quiet hour, when all in the house were supposed to have retired to rest, was selected for the purpose. Por- tions of shirts, with innumerable pocket-handkerchiefs, were sacrificed, and voluntarily offered for this service, when, to the surprise of all, in walked the Dominie ! All fled to their couches in dismay, and our well-prized and proved gun fell into the hands of the enemy, never again to revert to its rightful owners. Not only did we suffer this loss, but on Monday all were arraigned ; the surrep- titious introduction of the weapon formed the subject of a court of enquiry, and each of the supposed ringleaders got a jolly good whacking. Months rolled by ; the punishment I had received on the occasion just stated had lost much of its effect through the lapse of time, and I was again seduced into a shooting escapade. K big boy, two years older than myself, had arranged with a cotter for the loan of a gun at the rate of sixpence for the afternoon. Funds, how- ever, were wanted for ammunition ; and as I was known ->^- 8 All Round the PVor'd. to be flush, and, at the same time, trustworthy, I was admitted into partnership. Without mishap we arrived at our hunting-ground, the margin of a brook, near which rabbits had been seen. With bunny our acquaintance did not amount to intimacy. At last a water-hen was flushed ; she flew into a tree, where she was ignominiously and unfeelingly slaughtered. When our game was picked up, a horrible thought struck us. Petfcps we had been guilty of a violation of the game laws. The dead bird and gun would certainly lead to our detection, and then we should be shut up in gaol. Accordingly, we resolved to hide the gun in some grass, and sink the bird in the first deep pool we reached, by tying a stone to its feet. Our guilty conscience for many a long day caused us to bury this secret in our bosoms. In fact, for weeks after the transaction, any unusually forcible .ring at the hall door caused my heart to jump into my throat, as I felt certain it must emanate from ';n officer of the law, clothed with powers which would justi y our arrest, dead or alive. At length school-days ended — alas, that they should ! for my young friends will find, as < ime rolls on, that they are not the least happy of life — and from a relation I accepted, with the approval of my parents, an invita- tion to Cumberland. This was a delightful visit. I was actually trusted with a double-barrel, and had a pony to ride on. Which I enjoyed the most, it would be difficult to say. One portion of the day I was on horseback, the other dealin,, destruction to the unfor- tunate feathered beauties that came ia my way. Now that I am older, and, I hope, wiser, I v^gret having been the cause of such objectless massacres. 'orld. Boyhood and Mischief. , trustworthy, I was It mishap we arrived f a brook, near which ly our acquaintance ast a water-hen was le was ignominiously our game was picked ?et#aps we had been L\v3. The dead bird • detection, and then jrdingly. we resolved nd sink the bird in ng a stone to its feet. )ng day caused us to fact, for weeks after ble .ring at the hall my throat, as I felt er of the law, clothed arrest, dead or alive, as, that they should ! le rolls on, that they and from a relation y j;,arents, an invita- dciightful visit. I e-barrel, and had a 1 the most, it would f the day I was on iction to the unfor- ; \\\ my way. Now [ vegret having been As for the pony, I broke his knees jumping a fence large enough for a thorough-bred to tumble over, and he therefore was unfit for work till time had patched up the injury. For shooting by accident an old and valued hen belonging to a neighbouring Quakeress lady, I was deprived of fire-arms : and without gun, without horse, I became most miserable : in fact, they had become part and parcel of my existence, and the deprivation of them was the greatest punishment I could suffer. Moping about one day, not knowing what to do, a terrier of well-known pluck followed me, for I and the dogs of all degrees were ever intimate. I entered a large grass field, in the lower portion of which a flock of geese were feeding on the margin of a horse-pond. Without thought, " Pii cher" was ordered into the water, probably with the intention of intimidating the birds ; but he mistook my meaning, seized the gander by the neck, the rest of the Hock rushed to the rescue, and, to save the dog's life, I had to wade up to my waist to assist him. It was a splendid fight. The dog's pluck would not permit his surrendering or letting go the enemy, while the bird's comrades stuck to their chief with the most persistent courage. Doubtless but for a stick I had picked up and used with hearty good- will Pincher would have been drowned. As it was, he received numerous severe bruises ; but, in return, he deprived the gander of life. However, my escapade had been seen, the story was exaggerated, and, after a lecture on the disgrace attached to such heinous con- duct, I was, sorely against my will, despatched home to Scotland. 10 All Round the World. With advancing years my love for shooting and fishing increased. Cricket and foot-ball were neglected ; peg-tops and marbles ceased to be attractive. I craved solely for the excitement of field sports. At length a chance occurred. A kind old uncle paid my father a visit ; and on leaving, he gave mc a very genuine tip, a portion of which I determined to spend in a fishing excursion to the Highlands. A description of the capture of my first salmon may not be uninteresting. In less than an hour I reached the spot where I intended to commence operations. I was not a little disappointed to find the water still too thick; but I hoped, by using different varieties of red hackles, to pick up a few fish along the shallow edges of the rapids. My luck was not good, and by the time Old Sol had reached his greatest altitude, I began to despair of a heavy basket, and disgust at want of success had taken a strong hold of my feelings. My appetite also put in a claim for attention ; so, seating myself on a boulder close to the water, I enjoyed, with no very enviable feelings, my frugal and limited meal — " Nursing my wrath to keep it warm." Having thus da-vdled away a couple of hours, the decline of the sun warned me that I had still some way to walk. Picking up my rod and landing-net to put my intentions in operation, I was surprised by the splash of a heavy fish not twenty yards below me, in the clear water formed by the entrance of a mountain rivulet, which, from its lesser size, had settled sooner than the larger stream. It struck me, not having seen the dis- 'orld. r shooting and fishing •e neglected ; peg-tops . I craved solely for At length a chance ny father a visit ; and nine tip, a portion of fishing excursion to he capture of my first sd the spot where I I. I was not a little till too thick; but I :s of red hackles, to V edges of the rapids, le time Old Sol had egan to despair of a of success had taken appetite also put in a nyself on a boulder ith no very enviable il— ) it warm." couple of hours, the I had still some way id landing-net to put urprised by the splash below me, in the clear f a mountain rivulet, :ttled sooner than the having seen the dis- Boyhood and Mischief. 1 1 turber, that it probably was a large brook trout, or, perhaps, a sea one — more likely the former — as the season had not yet arrived for these active and silvery beauties to migrate from their salt-water abodes. With bent back, and cautious, steady step, I advanced within casting distance. My heart beat faster, and all my know- ledge was put in practice to throw a light and skilful fly. My father was a fisherman. What a triumph, if I should kill a larger fi.sh than he had ! With what pride should I display my prize, and afterwards narrate my prowess! Moreover, would I longer be considered a boy? Should I not have a right to claim a position among acknowledged anglers 1 Such thoughts as these passed through my brain rapid as electricity. How anxiously did I pray for success! What advantage would I not have taken, if opportunity offered, to become the possessor of so noble a prize ! I even fear I might have been guilty of murder, and used a gaff or fish- spear to accomplish my object, if those implements had been within reach, and I could have advantageously wielded them ! My trail fly had scarcely touched the water when a dull sullen plunge was made at it, and the dark broad back of a well-grown salmon showed itself Instinctively with the splash I struck, and with delight felt that I was fast in a foe whose claims to supremacy among the piscatorial tribe have never been disputed. The fish appeared scarcely to be aware of the dangerous game he was playing, as for some minutes it remained stationary, and one might have been doubtful of having him on but for the tremulous motion that passed up the line and 12 All Round the World. I |l|! rod to my hand. For several minutes the salmon re- mained in statu quo, but on my putting on a little addi- tional pressure, my eyes were quickly opened, for with the speed of a racehorse making a Chiffney finish or the descent of a wild duck to its feeding-ground in a gale of wind, the salmon started down stream. I had but a hundred and forty feet of line on my reel, and unless I followed, I felt certain he would soon run it out and smash everything. After the foe, down river, I started, flying, running, and jumping, over stones, gullies, and rocks, which, under ordinary cir- cumstances, I would have thought and looked at a a second time before facing. In this manner at least two hundred and fifty yards of the roughest ground was passed at a quicker pace than I have ever been able to accomplish before or since. This spurt had evidently tired the fish, although, if he could only have known how much worse was my state, he would have kept up the steam a little longer, as half a dozen strides would have fairly pumped me. But fortuna favct fortibiis. The fish now changed his tactics, slackening his pace to a four- mile-to-the-hour pace, keeping down deeper than pre- viously. The opportunity was iiot lost to reel up all line I dared take in, and to get myself in preparation and breathing condition for the next heat. One thing wiiich makes salmon more difficult to handle than all other fish is the uncertainty of its movements ; you lose one through some new stratagem, and you make up your mind to be prepared to counteract it, when the next opportunity offers, but what is your surprise when directly the opposite are the dodges followed, so that by a a a s fi ii h t I r a \ € V r c J I t A I R| |{ .i~-.iLJULJW- 1 rid. ites the salmon rc- ng on a little addi- ly opened, for with a Chiffney finish its feeding-ground ;d down stream. I >f line on my reel, lin he would soon \fter the foe, down and jumping, over mder ordinary cir- : and looked at a manner at least two ughest ground was 'e ever been able to ipurt had evidently ily have known how have kept up the strides would have t fortibus. The fish his pace to a four- n deeper than pre- lost to reel up all /^self in preparation t heat. One thing to handle than all s movements ; you 1, and you make up iteract it, when the your surprise when followed, so that by Boyhood and Mischief. n avoidi.ig Scylla you run into Charybdis. A salmon is also a fish of very enlarged ideas. lie appears to have a perfect disregard of distance ; and when he makes a start, if not stopped, he leaves the impression that he is off to the other side of the ocean or the Antipodes. My fish continued now sailing up and down, within fifteen or twenty yards, and keeping close to the bottom ; an insane idea struck me of having a good look at my beauty, and I put pressure on my rod (a very light, twelve-foot trout one), but without the slightest effect. His weight was such, combined with his strength, that my tackle must have broken had I persisted. In moving along the precipitous bank my foot displaced a stone, which rolled into the river with a splash. The hint was evidently all that was wanted, and off my friend again went, with all his previous celerity ; but this run was not quite as long, and, as a little alteration in the pro- gramme, the fish finished the burst by ju nping three times out of the water, giving me a good opportunity of judging his weight and proportions ; and previous ex- perience told me, from his contour, that it would well turn fifteen pounds. The two heats had done their work, or his lordship was in a more amiable st te of mind, as, with care, I could now stop his course and keep him closer to the surface ; but an occasional angry dash of his tail warned me not to attempt too many liberties. I kept my eyes on the alert for a piece of gravel-bank on which to coax him from his clement, having dropped my landing-net in the excitement of the first race because it was too small ; but this was ra*^her precipitate, for not more than half my work was over. Up H All Round the World. and down I walked, gave line and took it in as opportu- nity ofifercd, and I began to think that I was more of a victim than my attache. Over forty minutes had I been playing my fish and taking the most violent exercise, undergoing at the same time the greatest mental excite- ment, and yet I was apparently as far from success as at the start. The only part of the river I could find where 'the bank sufficiently shelved to slide him ashore was on the other side, so across I went. These mountain brooks are treacherous things to wade ; from six inches of water, the next step you take may be to your neck, if not farther ; and if, when so agreeably situated, the enemy should take another fancy, and challenge you to a third heat, good-bye to all your hopes — your castles in the air would most ruthlessly be demolished. After getting in up to my waist, I safely landed without accident, and, after one or two unsuccessful attempts, got my prey into shoal water, out of which, with a dexterous hoist with both hands, I transferred my victim to terra firma. My fatigue, exertion, and wetting were now all forgotten, and I fairly yelled with pleasure. Again and again I looked at him, and never tired admiring his gigantic and handsomely developed proportions. Many and many a time have I recalled that day, and remember with greater pleasure the killing of my first salmon than almost any sporting adventure in an adventurous life. Next year, with my parents, I removed to Ireland. Our residence was in the centre of a good hunting, shooting, and fishing county ; and as my education was supposed to be completed, I had nothing to do but enjoy myself. Those were happy days. I can never forget rid. ok it in as opportu- lat I was more of a minutes had I been st violent exercise, itest mental cxcite- r from success as at : I could find where him ashore was on se mountain brooks six inches of water, your neck, if not lituated, the enemy enge you to a third your castles in the hed. After getting d without accident, empts, got my prey 1 a dexterous hoist ;tim to terra firnia. ■e now all forgotten, Again and again I miring his gigantic IS. Many and many tnd remember with ; salmon than almost urous life. emoved to Ireland, if a good hunting, 3 my education was ling to do but enjoy I can never forget Boyhood and Mischief. 15 them. With what pleasure did I exhibit to my dear eld father the results of my exertions and skill ! how delighted did I feel on receiving his commendation ! And then, when my beloved mother would express uneasiness lest I should over-fatigue myself or catch cold, I would cast my arms around her, and kiss ivvay all her alarms.' Take my advice, young gentlemen: value and respect your parents while they are with you ; attend to their admonitions, for when it is the will of Providence to remove them, their place can never be refilled. Their .solicitude is the result of pure unselfish affection, such as you will never find in the cold, pitiless, unfeeling world. But time fled on rapidly. I became fretful and un- settled ; a desire to roam had taken possession of me ; no longer had small game the same attraction. At night, in my dreams, tigers and bears howled around me ; at one moment, I had a hairbreadth escape ; next I shot single-handed the dreaded man-cater, till I became so discontented and uneasy that I shunned society, and kept entirely to myself. i6 All Round the World, CHAPTER II. MY FIRST STEEPLECHASE. ABOUT this date I got into a sad scrape. A thoroughbred mare, which my father had possessed and ridden as his charger for many years, was the dam of a four-year-old colt, very handsome and valuable. This colt was the old gentleman's pet. Every day he visited it in the stable, and seldom without taking it a piece of bread or sugar. Several times I had been permitted to cross this horse, and once ride him with hounds. I soon found out that he was remarkably fast, and a very clever fencer. In our neighbourhood there lived a young fellow, a few- years over my age, half gentleman, half jockey. As he was known to be a gambler, and not over-scrupulous in horse-flesh transactions, his character was not highly esteemed. With uneasiness my parents saw us often together, and I was repeatedly warned, though in vain, that such society would do me injury. Returning on my pony one morning from the post yyld. My Fit'jt Sfccplcchase. 17 IIASE. d scrape. lich my father had for many years, was f'cry handsome and itleman's pet. Every ;ldom without taking ral times I had been once ride him with ivas remarkably fast, i young fellow, a few- half jockey. As he )t over-scrupulous in :ter was not highly xrents saw us often ned, Irfiough in vain, ya- rning from the post town, I met the forbidden associate. He had been .schooling a slashing-looking, big, raw-boned chesnut, and spoke enthusiastically of its performances. As a belt of good gall()[)ing grass-land .stretched along the road, I asked him to show me how his new acquisition moved, upon which he gave the nag his head, and shot)k him into a three-quarter gallop. After traversing two or three hundred yards, he ran his mount at a wall at the end of the enclosure four feet high, or possibly nujre. The chesnut topped it cleverly, to the delight of his rider. " Wouldn't you like such a flyer in your stables }" said he ; " he can beat any horse in the county, either on the flat or across country." Now, although there was no denying the excellence of the horse in question, 1 felt perfectly certain that my father's favourite, Sir Charles, with anything like proper allowance of weight for age, could run away from such an antagonist. Nor did I hesitate to say so, whic'i resulted in a challenge. At first I declined, knowing that my father would not let me have Sir Charles for such a purpose ; but being unmercifully chafied, up to the verge of insult, I accepted the proposal. The amount of the stakes was a mere trifle, at the same time as large a sum as my small purse would allow, and, upon being pressed over and over again to double the bets, I was obliged to confess with shame to my antagonist that I had no more money. That evening we met at a farmhouse, and arranged the distance, place, and date of the race. We selected the day on which my father was in the habit of going to a neighbouring city to draw his pay. Before the event C iH All Round the World. came off, I succeeded in obtiiiiiint,' permission, throuph iny mother's iiitercessioti, to take Sir Cluirles out, and lach time I did so you may be sure he got a good l)reather. As it would not do to take the colt home warm, F arranged that a stable attache should meet me some distance off, where a scrape and rub down could be given without attracting attention ; and also that the horse might come home not looking the worse for his exercise. As time passed, and the eventful date ap- proached, more and more I wished to back out, even if I had to pay forfeit of all the stakes ; but a false pride intervened. I would not listen to the small warning voice of con.science, and therefore continued to act a part towards those who loved me of which I ought to have been heartily ashamed. With nervous anxiety, I saw my father depart on his quarterly errand. An hour afterwards, and only a few minutes before the colt should have received his noonday feed, I threw my leg over him, and started for the place of rendezvous. On reaching it 1 found, to my surprise, quite a number of labourers and servants assembled. The proceedings, which I hoped would not be known by any but ourselves, had leaked out ; in fact, I found that my adversary had been making a book on the results, and consequently all who had thus obtained a monied interest were naturally anxious to be spectators. The chesnut stripped admirably, possibly a little low- in flesh ; still he was much improved. The knocks and bangs he had shown on my first seeing him, and which gave him rather a stale look, had all disappeared. My expectation of winning was therefore much shaken, and iii Hiyjbip.ii ! Js; rid. permission, throuph ir CliarlcH out, and urc he got a good take the colt home •he should meet me lul rub down could ; and also that the g the worse for his ; eventful date ap- 1 back out, even if I < ; but a false pride tht small warning itinued to art a part ich I ought to have Father depart on his irds, and only a few •eceived his noonday started for the place )und, to my surprise, servants assembled, uld not be known by in fact, I found that jk on the results, and ned a monied interest tors. possibly a little low d. The knocks and eing him, and which ill disappeared. My re much shaken, and My First Steeplechase. »9 but for the spectators I should have backeil out ; for I feared that, if I won, it would be after a hard struggle, and the colt was not in condition to endure a severe contest. On all sides I heard the odds freely given in favour of my adversary, with but few takers. At length, when a blusterin- fellow, whom I knew by eyesight— he was a cattle-dealer— offered four to one against Sir Charl<:s, and some time was passed without an acceptor, I was ahrost on the point of booking it myself when a quiet inoffensive-look ng man took up the offer, and entered it ; at the same time observing that, sooner than disappoint any one, he would not decline repeating the operation. This revived my courage. Just as the race was about to be run, I was joined by the silent personage, who apologised for interrupting me, and then gave me the following instructions :— " Young gentleman, I'm an old hand, know a deal more than I look to. know that chcsnut since he was a yearling, know his failings and his good points, for I have often had a leg over him. Just take my advice : make a waiting race of it. Let him lead you till the last jump is over ; and then, if you can't beat him in the straight run home at the finish, the fault ;s yours, not your horse's. There's a stun in your favour ; and big as the other looks, he never could carry weight ; them that's tallest on their pins hain't always the most substance." Never being above listening to advice, but using my own judgment whether to act upon it or not, I saw at once that the unknown speaker was correct in his idea of how the race should be ridden, and no person, fortu- nately, had overheard his instructions. C 2 2,0 All Round the World. After a glance at the girths, I quietly gained my saddle, and joined my adversary, who was impatiently waiting my arrival, for his mount was extremely fidgety. Without difficulty we got away, the chesnut forcing the running, and hauling his rider nearly out of his seat. I followed without pushing, and, ere a quarter of a mile was passed, found, to my -.eat relief, that my foe was far in- ferior in speed, provided he was now really going his best. None of the fences exceeded the average of hunting- jumps, excepting the last, which was a post and rails, with water on the landing-side. This leap, although .stiffish, was only awkward from a drop in the ground where you came at it ; rnd from previous experience of Sir Charles's capacities, I had little dread but tnat he would be able and willing to take me safely over. Up to this time scarcely four strides had separated us. Evidently it had been the object of m.y opponent to force the pace. As we approached the last fence, he found out that such a game was impossible, so adopted a new stratagem, which is often successful when a young horse is the opponent. He rushed his horse at the last fence, and caused the animal to baulk, just as he gathered his legs under him to make the leap. But I was too close abreast of him for the ruse to succeed. With a touch of spur and whip, as well as a word of encou- ragement, Sir Charles, without falter, rose to his leap, and, as the saying goes, took me halfway into the next field ere he touched ground again. My adversary knew that he was beaten ; he never attempted to make up lost distance ; so I cantered past the winning-post an easy conqueror. Boy-like, and even man-like, I felt no small amount ^^.i^ yorld. I quietly gained my who was impatiently vas extremely fidgety, lie chesnut forcing the rly out of his seat. I a quarter of a mile was hat my foe was far in- w really going his best, de average of hunting- was a post and rails, This leap, although a drop in the ground previous experience of ttle dread but that he me safely over. ;rides had separated us. ct of m.y opponent to hed the last fence, he impossible, so adopted uccessful when a young ;d his horse at the last lulk, just as he gathered ; leap. But I was too ie to succeed. With a 1 as a word of encou- ter, rose to his leap, and, ay into the next field ere adversary knew that he make up lost distance ; )st an easy conqueror. 1 felt no small amount My First Steeplechase. 21 of plcjisiifiO' at the result, though my conscience warned me that my father would be excessively annoyed when the story reached his ears. Had I possessed courage to endure the chaff about being still in the nursery which was showered down upon mc, I should not have been in my present difficulty. I got my horse home without exciting suspicion. Even the old groom made no remarks on his appear- ance, for, previous to returning, behind a hay-rick Sir Charles had undergone a good grooming from two able- bodied stable-lads ; nor had he suffered in heart, for never did I feel the brave colt travel homewards more cockily. Still I was uneasy, and again and again during the few hours preceding my father's return I visited his stall. Fortunately he continued all right. He emptied his manger with more than usual appetite ; and I was thankful to find that, although I had been disobedient and deceitful, I had not done the animal injury. At length the old gentleman returned. A dark frown was settled upon his face, and when he told me in a peremptory manner that he wished to see me in his room, I knew the secret was out. I will pass over what happened, except to say that my father perceived that travelling was the best remedy for my restless, adven- turous spirit, and gave me permission to go abroaJ. By this time I had become a proficient in the use of the gun and rod. I had already killed almost every description of British game, as well as sundry salmon. I also had learned to tie either a trout or salmon fly equal in finish to those emanating from the hands of a professional. Hitherto I had shot for the sake o[ ■ s pF 22 All Round the World. I boasting of the numbers I could bag : bvt a change, possibly resulting from my skill, took p'acc. The habits of game and their modes of life became my constant study. To sec my setters hunt and display their sagacity was enjoyed ; to see the game go off scathless, although in my power, was a still greater pleasure. Since then I have ceased to shoot when my bag has been sufficiently replenished, and my forbearance has produced a higher feeling of satisfaction than I should have otherwise enjoyed. I am glad to say that the class of naturali.st sportsmen is rapidly increasing — men who shoot for the sake of the exercise and pleasure it produces, who are satisfied with a moderate remuneration ; so difterent from those who crave for wholesale slaughter, and feel only grati- fication in having brought to bag every unfortunate that was flushed before them. All who shoot are not really sportsmen ; many of them should rather be called butchers. It is the same with horsemanship. If emergency cause it, such as sickness or imperative and undelayable busi- ness, it is excusable to ride a horse till he suffer from extreme fatigue ; but if such an ordeal is demanded simply to gratify whim, caprice, or pleasure, it is an offence that should be unpardonable in the eyes of all proper-thinking persons. A very short period before going abroad, I killed my first deer. It was thus : the park wall of a n-ighbouring nobleman's demesne, for upwards of a hundred yards, had been blown down ; half a dozen deer had in conse- vld. ag : bvt a change, took p'acc. The of life became my hunt and display the game go off was a still greater it when my bag has iiy forbearance has ction than I should laturali-st sportsmen )ot for the sake of :s, who are satisfied difterent from those md feel only grati- ; every unfortunate who shoot are not )uld rather be called If emergency cause id undelayable busi- : till he sufifer from )rdeal is demanded ■ pleasure, it is an e in the eyes of all abroad, I killed my ill of a n-ighbouring )f a hundred yards, deer had in conse- My First Steeplechase. ^3 quence escaped, which, one by jne, in detail had been killed, with the exception of un old buck, who eluded all pursuit. Shooting rabbits one evening, I observed his track in the margin of a field of young wheat. On a further examination, I found several "forms" where he had lain, while the farmer who owned the crop informed me that he had seen the buck on numerous occasions, and, further, expressed a desire that some one would shoot him, as he was doing much damage. For several even- ings at sunset I took a stand, in each instance guided by the wind, as I learned the marauder always entered at the same spot. However, for over a week I was unsuc- cessful. Being foiled so often, I had almost determined to give up the chase ; but an acquaintance of my family, who had paid us a visit, begged of me to make one more effort, and let him be my companion. Half an hour before the sun went down, we reached our hunting-ground, and disposed ourselves behind a portion of a fence, which offered such shelter as would screen us from observation. Long and anxiously we lay perdus, and were about to retire, disgusted at our want of success, when to our delight the object of our visit made his appearance. The light was gradually waning, and with anxiety we watched his slow and guarded approach to the ambuscade. My companion was to shoot first ; at length I gave him the signal to do so, and following the report, the buck sprung into the air, and at a slashing gallop made for a neigh- bouring wood. I pitched my rifle and took a steady aim ; the shot was a long one, still the bullet told, for again the deer showed indications of being hit, by almost 24 All Round (he WoHd. coming on his knees, and, with difficulty recovering him- self, afterwards departing at accelerated pace for parts unknown. Next day the buck was found dead, nearly a couple of miles off — the first shot had grazed him in fruiit of the shoulder, the second had hit him in an excellent line, but with rather too much elevation to kill him on the spot. Before leaving home and those ties so delightful to be remembered, I will add another adventure. I was stationed with my regiment at Fermoy, in County Cork, and as it was the summer season, and the fishing was excellent, whenever I was off duty, I was in the habit of spending a large portion of my time on the edge of the river Bride. With many years' experience and frequent visits to the most celebrated fishing-streams, I have never, in the course of my life, met with a rivulet so admirably adapted for the use of the fly as that pic- turesque and beautiful tributary of the Blackwater. In addition \ o the water being as clear as crystal, it flows through as rich a valley of cultivated land as it would be possible to find ; the margin is almost entirely clear from obstructions, thus affording ample space to cast a long line. During the heat of the day I had not been blessed with much success, and as I was aware that towards sunset the fish would be on the feed, and that probably I should be able to make up any deficiency, I resolved to remain. The village of Rathcormack was near, so I dismembered my rod and took possession of the well- sanded parlour of the hotel, ordering the ubi- quitous waiter to furnish me with the standing dish of those parts, rashers and eggs, with which to allay hi. My First Stccplcc/iasc. a5 ty recovering him- :ed pace for parts LUid dead, nearly a ad grazed him in ad hit him in an :h elevation to kill s so delightful to idvcnture. I was rmoy, in County ^n, and the fishing luty, I was in the " my time on the • years' experience :ed fishing-streams, met with a rivulet the fly as that pic- le Blackwater. In as crystal, it flows I land as it would s almost entirely ig ample space to the day I had not IS I was aware that the feed, and that up any deficiency, Rathcormack was took possession of ordering the ubi- the standing dish ith which to allay my increasing appetite. I have always had a love for eating a meal in one of those neat wayside taverns, with their white-sanded floors. However simple it might be, whatever you partake of is so plain, yet appetising, that after the luxury of mess-dinners the con- trast is a relief As the sun approached the horizon, I re- started to try my luck, and soon had reason to congratu- late myself on the result. The fish were fairly ravenous, and although they did not run large, I rapidly filled my creel with those of the proper size to be most acceptable at the breakfast-table. I fished two pools with the above success, and had moved down to the third, where, from its being deeper and less-frequented. I had little doubt I should even do better. The first few casts assured me that my suppositions were correct, and many a handsome brilliant-hued trout was added to my already plenteous store. Down the stream I travelled till I stood upon a gravel-bank where the water was contracted and more rapid. Several more fish were captured, and as the light had become dubious, I had made up my mind to stop further proceedings. In taking a few farewell casts, I observed something swimming on the surface which at first I took to be a dog ; but on closer examination the physiognomy was so totally different from any canine I had ever seen that I was forced to conclude that I was mistaken. What could it be > I turned the ques- tion rou'.d in my mind, and at last came to the con- clusion that it was nothing more or less than an otter. These amphibii, I was aware, were well known all along the lovely valley of the Blackwater, and more particularly in the vicinity of the picturesque grounds of Castle Hyde, I 26 All Round the World. and my present apparition, without doubt, had co.ne from these haunts, deservedly lauded for their beauty. The animal, apparently, did not perceive me, so actively was he employed on his own private affairs. Several times he dived and as rapidly rose to the surface, stemming the rapid current with an ease and dexterity far excel- ling any terrestrial animal of my acquaintance. From the moment of noticing the stranger, I had stood mo- tionless, and by degrees he had steadily advanced till just abreast of my position, and not over forty feet from me. A strange idea struck me : why not throw my flies over him, and with a quick strike stick a hook in his glossy well-clad hide ? Acting on the spur of the moment, I made my cast, and, with the first effort, had a contestant fast at the end of my line, a thousand times more trouble- some than ever I had before or since. By paying out line at one moment, next minute gently taking it in, and always retaining a steady strain, the despoiler of hundreds of the finny tribe, though making every effort that he thought would avail him in such an emergency, could not free himself from the insidious barb. My line was strong, but my rod light and very pliable ; so I discarded the latter, and having run out through the rings the greater portion of what my reel contained, I played the adversary as if with a hand-line. Flesh and blood could not stand the issue further, and at length, by wading nearly up to my knees, I succeeded in getting my antagonist into the landing-net, whic*^ fortunately was an unusually large, strong, and deep one. So far, I had succeeded admirably, but how to retain my prisoner and keep him a captive. I knew not. His formidable molars, when he had time ■Id. ubt, had co.ne from their beauty. The me, so actively was lirs. Several times surface, stemming dexterity far excel- :quaintance. From r, I had stood mo- adily advanced till over forty feet from ' not throw my flies a hook in his glossy Lir of the moment, )rt, had a contestant times more trouble- By paying out line cing it in, and always r of hundreds of the brt that he thought ncy, could not free line was strong, but discarded the latter, 5 the greater portion 1 the adversary as if could not stand the iding nearly up to ' antagonist into the an unusually large, ucceeded admirably, keep him a captive. ;, when he had time My First Steeplechase ^^ to think a bit, would soon free him ; and keep my prize, if possible. I was determined on. A thought struck me. If I could only got his tail, which hung over the edge of the landing-net, into the sleeve of my coat, and tic it tightly round with a string, his flight would be so impeded that, with a fair open country for our run, I had little doubt but that I would be the fleeter of the two, the other having a very awkward, although not heavy, handi- cap. Without delay, I attempted the process, and never in the course of my life had I as hard a game. Still. I stuck to it, and what with putting my foot on his ne:k and trying to hold him on the ground, breaking my rod and getting the slack of the line round my feet, so as to hamper me almost inextricably, I at length secured m)' prey. With much difficulty, and several nearly successful attempts at escape, I gained the village, when I snugly put my captive in the well of an Irish car, and brought him home in triumph. On close inspection, I found that I had only a kitten, or, in other words, a half-grown otter to deal with. Save me from thus tackling one of them that had attained maturity, if their strength and unconquerable determina- tion increases in due ratio with their stature ! For some days the brute was sulky and untouchable, but, within a week, he had formed a great attachment for a Skye terrier which I possessed, and in a month from the date of capture became so reconciled to his new home and ma^.er that he would follow me wherever I went, pro- vided the dog was one of the party. For months I kept him, and he would bask with delight in front of a good fire, with a gusto that was indisputable; and quite a 28 A /I Round the World. good understanding had sprung up between us, when, unfortunately, he strayed out into the barrack -yard without a protector, and was pounced upon by a savage greyhound, who rapidly enlisted confederates among the useless curs that were near, and after making a gallant fight, tlie stranger had to surrender, gamely struggling to the last against superior numbers. •Id. between us, when, the barrack -yard I upon by a savage ideratcs anion}^ the making a gallant gamely struggling A Run ivith the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 29 CHAPTER III. A RUN WITH THE GIBRALTAR FOXHOUNDS. WITH home I have now done. Let us proceed to a more sunny land ; one teeming with romance and poetry, a land where British blood has often been shed, and British honour often vindicated. Let us repair to Spain, and halt at that famous fortress, which guards the entrance to the deep blue Mediterranean Sea. Many a delightful day have I passed on that renowned rock, where the proud British ensign waves within sight of the swarthy Spanish soldiery; and many a pleasant adven- ture have I met with in the picturesque country adjoin- ing the Anglo-Saxon settlement. Gibraltar, familiarly Gib, although a rock, and of no great proportions, is a most jolly quarter: here an officer's duties are heavy, but the amusements plentiful. Balls, pic-nics, riding and boating parties are in the cool weather in such abundance that vacant time seldom hangs heavily on your hands. And then those walks along the Almada after mess ! Who can forget the saunters there } Such picturesque costumes, pretty senoritas, bright pairs of eyes — such 3° Ail Round the JVorld. feet and ankles— such walking Vcnuscs, as only are to be seen among Andalusian belles ! We arc all mortal, and the impressions of youth are not easily effaced. But we will pass over the fair sex, and, instead of the brunette beauties, treat of the sj.^itcd ones that form the pack well known to every military man as the Calpe Foxhounds. To the noble house of Beaufort, I believe, the Gib- raltar garrison are indebted for establishing this hunt. For years drafts from their home-establishment have annually been forwarded as a gift to make up casualties, for, strange to say, hounds bred at the Rock arc deficient in scent ; so our readers will see that, if the Calpe hounds do not kill whenever they meet, the pack is at least composed of material inferior to none in England. In the month of February, 18— the powers that then had control of the kennels determined that the next meet should take place at the second tower. Eastern Beach. This is the best riding and safest find in the country ; so it is no wonder that a large field always assembles on such occasions. Even those of the fair sex who were eques- trians turned out in force to sec the throw off, and per- chance have a mile-or-two breather, within sight, or at least sound, of the melodious beauties. Previous to the day of which I speak, there had been a great deal of friendly competition in the hunting-field between the officers of two regiments that had served shoulder to shoulder in Russia and afterwards in the distant East. Even the privates of these corps, I think, never had a squabble ; but on the occasion in question it was to be decided who possessed the best horsemen or the best mounted man ; the individuals, therefore, who took upon ■Id. :s, as only are to be arc all mortal, and ly effaced. But we ad of the brunette form the pack well 'alpe Foxhounds. I believe, the Gib- iblishlng this hunt, establi.shr.ient have make up casualties, e Rock arc deficient if the Calpc hounds ic pack is at least nc in England. In wers that then had hat the next meet •cr, Eastern Beach, in the country ; so it 5 assembles on such :;x who were eques- throw off, and per- , within sight, or at :s. Previous to the een a great deal of T-field between the served shoulder to in the distant East. think, never had a lestion it was to be rsemcn or the best fore, who took upon A Run with the Gibraltar foxhounds. 3 1 their shoulders the responsibility of representatives were doubtless determined to do their utmost to wm the laurels. The day bn.kc dry and cloudy. A shower during the ni^ht had made the soil sprin^jy. perhaps a triile heavy, but otherwise all foretold a hunting' mornmti rare to be found, and the knot of top-boots that assembled in the mess-room to breakfast con^'ratulati^d each other on the prospect ; interlarding it with no small amount of chaff as to where various persons would be at the fmish of the coming run. I possessed a bay stallion at that tmic, fast and last- ing In the severest runs previously obtained he had proved himself gifted with extraordinary bottom, but a more thorough fiend never was girthed, for both teeth and heels he was equally expert with and equa'ly prone to make use of To him fell the honour of being selected for this occasion ; so at an early hour the groom started with him for the place of rendezvous. The ride along the Eastern Beach is dreary m the extreme for the first few miles after you pass through the Spanish lines, for a wide slope of sand extends before you girt on one side by the Mediterranean, on the other by 'a chain of rugged sierras. Here and there, but far between, an occasional cabin is to be found ; and if you should catch a glimpse of the swarthy residents, what between dirt and sun-burning, they look as dark, or darker, than the inmates of a home gipsy-encampment. When a small amount of ground in the vicinity of these domiciles is cultivated, the enclosure is hedged with the flowering aloe, which forms a most impenetrable fence. 3* All Round the World. In fact, at Anger, in the island of Java, this same shrub is used as a chcvaitx de frisc around the Dutch earth- works that command the watering-place. The first tower. Eastern Beach, passed, the country begins gra- dually to improve. The mountains lose much of their rugged and sterile look ; and the flat that extends be- tween them and the sea increases into a wide grass plain, here and there dotted with brush, intersprinkled with an occasional palmetto, a good and not unfrcquent cover for red-legged partridge, and a favourite haunt for quail at the periods of migration. A little farther on is a river, on the overflowed edges of which in winter I have bagged many a brace of snipe. But we are already at the rendezvous. About thirty members and visitors are assembled, and various little parties are seen in the distance approaching to join in the anticipated run. The hat at length goes round, the master looks pleasant, the huntsman business-like. When each attendant has handed in his mite, time is pronounced to be up, and off we trot to draw a favourite and safe find. To the new arrival from home the Spanish horses look both unsightly and undersized. Still they are game and lasting, though usually slow and mulish ; but they arc admirably adapted to their country, for with unerring foot they will canter over ground so uneven and covered with boulders that to w.ik an English horse over the same would most probably result in broken knees, or even worse. This unsightly appearance in these horses is principally caused by their being frequently goose- rumped, with the tail set on unusually low, while the crest and withers of many are remarkably high. bar are hca nio brc "L wh mil the Th tha luc oui coi be: bei ma th( sue in >rld. iva, this same shrub id the Dutch carth- ig-place. The first country begins gra- 5 lose much of their flat that extends be- s into a wide grass brush, intersprinkled 1 and not unfrequent a favourite haunt for A little farther on is fhich in winter I have ;vous. About thirty ed, and various little oaching to join in the roes round, the master ess-like. When each time is pronounced to ivourite and safe find. ; Spanish horses look ;ill they are game and mulish ; but they are ry, for with unerring ;o uneven and covered nclish horse over the ; in broken knees, or irance in these horses ing frequently goose- isually low, while the arkably high. ^. 4 Run zvith the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 2>2) The cover at last reached, at a wave of the master's hand the hounds break in with a rush ; stumps of cigars are now thrown away, hats pressed more firmly on the head, and eligible places selected, according to the opi- nion of riders, for getting away with the pack when they break cover. After a few minutes a whimper is heard. " Lady's voice ! " a knowing one exclaims in a suppressed whisper. However, all again is still for two or three minutes. Then two or three hounds speak, followed by the whole pack in concert, deep, sonorous, and earnest. The place is certainly too hot ; pug must break. What's that ? Some one shouting " tally-ho ! " But, confound such luck ! that Spanish shepherd and his curs have headed our game just as it was about to take the best line of country the hunt possesses. Up and down cover the beauties race ; Rantipole's voice awakening the rever- berating echoes from the neighbouring hills. And well may he possess such powerful lungs, for seldom was there a truer, stauncher, or more enduring hound. But such work cannot last long in a few acres, and poor Bug, in preference to again facing the open, gets chopped. From here we took off to another spinney, better even than the first. Our master is generally a quiet man, but from the expression of his countenance now, I pity the unfortunate who again heads back our quarry. Lord Scamperdale might be more blustering, but I doubt if half so forcible. To prevent such ordeals a short halt takes place, when we all receive a caution, and again the hounds are thrown in. The ground here is somewhat irregular, but from an over-hanging brow a perfect view can be obtained. On this are soon perched old field D 34 All Round the World. officers, several captains of the former .c'gifnc, and a goodly array of subs, many looking as if they had only just left school and their mothers' apion-strings. Nothing has yet occurred to thin the field, and many, T won't say of what kind, feel and express delight that they have already been present at a kill. Soon two or three of the young hounds again open, the v. hip- cord is heard in vigorous play, for a brace of deer, instead of our legitimate quarry, steal away over the opposite brow. By the bye, what kind of deer are these? I have several times seen them, once rode almost on the top of one, and if they are not fallow deer they bear the strongest resemblance to them I ever saw. Again the skirters settle to their work, and ere long a perfect babel of voices foretells game to be on the move. A fox from here was ever known to afford good sport. The cork woods are generally the point made for, and they are not less than ten miles distant. I >p.ve just taken up another hole m my girths, and congratulated myself that the crowd of brother subs did not seduce me into a schooling match en route from the one cover to the other, for while their horses look warm and fretted, mine is as cool as at the moment he left the stable, and deuced glad am I of it, for the old huntsman rattles past, and calls out, " None of your horses has a leg too many for the day's work before you." We never had a chance of heading either fox or hounds, even supposing it had been desirable ; in fact, it was all the majority of us could do to get away on anything like fair terms. As we enter the lower grounds, the dd. mcr .i'gmc, and a ig as if they had hers' apion-strings. i field, and many, T spress delight that a kill. Soon two in open, the v.hip- r a brace of deer, teal away over the t kind of deer are n them, once rode they are not fallow lance to them I ever their work, and ere (retells game to be was ever known to oods are generally ; not less than ten up another hole in self that the crowd ne into a schooling 2r to the other, for itted, mine is as cool and deuced glad am ties past, and calls eg too many for the either fox or hounds, le ; in fact, it was all :t away on anything lower grounds, the A Run xvith the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 35 galloping is heavy, and heavy weights and light nags begin to drop behind. In those days I could ride ten stone ; and I do not think there was a horse in the gar- rison of greater substance and size than my mount, save it were the imported charger of a field-officer, and if so, the owner thought too much of him to let him figure in such an escapade. My nag never appeared to feel stronger under me than on this occasion. Although boring a little, I kept him well within his stride, and, wondrous to say. he was giving his running kindly, and had dispensed with the series of buck jumps and kicks that usually formed the preliminary flourish to a gallop. After the first mile of flat valley land had been passed over, and the half-dozen jumps that intersected it, the field had wonderfully tailed off. The master, whip, a hard-riding gunner, a big sapper, and an infantry man of the corps, already referred to, were still in front. The next flight of the ruck were by my sid_-, many of whom I already saw would not hold out for another mile. In a short time I drew away from the crowd, and soon was close by my antagonist. The four lead- ing men made a detour to the right ; probably from knowing the country better, and what was before them. I should have followed the example, but when about to do so, my temporary foe, the crack of the competing corps, called upon me to follow ; I was close at his heels and scarce could decline the gauntlet. A brook was before us with sedgy margin, deep and sullen as a canal ; at it we both went at racing pace, my friend a little in advance ; and after a scramble on the off"-side, for some moments doubtful whether a ducking or not was D 2 r 36 All Rotmd the World. in store for me, the powerful hind-quarters of my horse carried the day and saved me a wetting. The hounds had now turned to the right ; those who had gone in that direction had luck on their side, and consequently agun cut in front ; the ground was still soft, yet by keeping my horse well together. I felt he had plenty left in him and to spare. A couple more ^^ater-jumps and some meadows wcie soon got over ; the whii-^ was just in before me when his horse made a bad flounder and finished off by coming on his head. Alas ! poor Calpc never rose again ; it was his last run, the finish of a Ion- and gallant career, drawing his last breath with the saddle on, follow- ing the pack he had for many years held a good place wiUi. Of course I did not stop for the whip, he was not wanted till feeding-time, just as Leech's parson, who got into the brook, was not required until the coming Sunday ; so I pushed for the front, the big sapper's weight had commenced to tell ; every dig of the spur sent" his horse's tail up instead of augmenting pace, and it required but little experience to see that the honours would be either to the master, gunner, or self For a moment the hounds came to fault on the edge of a stream beside a ford. The master called on me to assist him. A cast was made when some Spaniards shouted " dsorro " from a neighbouring hill-side. Soon the beauties were lifted and laid on ; the soil was firmer and the pace proportionably faster, heads up and tails down ; the spotted pack seemed to fly, giving utterance to their feelings in short snatches of voice, which invariably fore- tells the end of the drama and the close proximity of poor Fug. As we advanced, the ground became rougher, 10( wi kf. pa so CO m dc sc m di cc dc ev he cii o\ h( b( pi m til A b( W h: c\ di IV ■m^ w. A Run toith the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 37 irtcrs of my horse iiifi. The hounds had gone in that onscquently agun ft, yet by keeping plenty left in him •-jumps and some Mvas just in before inder and finished )r Calpe never rose a \o\vj, and gallant e saddle on, follow- held a good place le -whip, he was not I's parson, who got until the coming The big sapper's :ry dig of the spur augmenting pace, ;e to see that the ter, gunner, or self, ault on the edge of er called on me to en some Spaniards g hill-side. Soon the soil was firmer and i up and tails down ; ig utterance to their hich invariably fore- : close proximity of and became rougher. loose boulders were scattered everywhere, just such as a winded hoise would toe ; but luck favoured us, and all kept our feet. If the field had tailed off, so had the pack, not over four or five couple remained, who were so closely bunched that, if a sheet would not have covered them, it would nearly have done so. Every moment all expected to rui/ uito view, and just as our desire was realised, Pug, draggled and travel-stained, scarcely able to get up more locomotion than a trot, managed to draw himself into an earth. We had all had enough ; th:: gunner's horse, as he dismounted, staggered, and as for the major's, 1 never could tell how he held his own, for the mount was un- dersized, and rather inclining to the weedy order ; how- ever, for many a week afterwards the poor beast (the horse) did not show in the hunting-field. After a suffi- cient halt to slacken girths and breathe our horses, talk over the run, light a weed, and take a pull at our flasks, home was the word. Saint Roc[ue was in route; before reaching there, several straggling hounds had been picked up, and as we enjoyed a draught of McCray's m-lk punch, others joined. The day was now far spent, the sun was already dipping over the hills that back Algesiras, and if we wished to get into the garrison before gun-fire, it was time to be jogging along. What remained of the foremost leaders of the pack we had only just time to deposit at their kennel when the evening gun belched forth the warning that all who desired to sleep within the walls of Gibraltar had better not delay, for the laws against opening the gates are as 38 All Round the World. positive and unchancrcablc as those of the Mcdes and Persians. u a- \ The horse that carried me that day is dead. He died in the hunting-field, where his bones, Uke empty cham- pagne bottles around an Indian or other encampment, remained as a monument to speak of the generous spirit that was contained therein. c w St fli hi w p ri it o t c ^^ af the Mcdes and Rambles in Spain. 39 is dead. He died like empty cham- )ther encampment, the generous spirit CHAPTER IV. RAMBLES IN SPAIN. SHOOTING generally commenced at Gibraltar in the month of October, for earlier in the year the weather was too warm to tramp over the rough and stony hill-side in search of red-legged partridge, and the flights of migratory quail then pushing for the southward had not arrived. The partridge-shooting, however, seldom lasted over a week or two, for sportsmen are here too numerous in proportion to the quantity of game and the size of the range of accessible country ; but if the visitor should find it convenient to push inland into Spain, say twenty-five or thirty miles, he will receive an ample reward for his trouble. Through the cork wood is situated a village, called Boccaleone. It stands upon the margin of the Guadiar, and is surrounded by meadows, which in their turn are encircled by hills. Indian corn is the staple production, and in the fields where it is grown I found game abundant; and each night, as I returned 40 All Round the World. homewards, quail, partridge, and hares filled the bag. Still farther off, about twenty miles inland from Tarifa, is situated an immense marsh, where, besides the afore- mentioned, an abundance of snipe and wild fowl can be obtained. T\\Qpadrh of m adjacent village must not be forgotten, for he was a most genial, good-hearted soul— a bon-vivant and lovnr of field sports. During my stay I met him daily, and when duty obliged me to bid him farewell, I did so expressing the hope that he might find it conve- nient to visit the'garrison. A month or two afterwards he did so, and became so exceedingly popular with my brother officers that his visit was protracted over a fortnight. During the migratory seasons good quail-shooting can be obtained of a morning at Campeamento, only a couple of miles from the landport gate! But it is the old story of the early bird and the worm. The late riser would find all the game killed or driven off ere he reached the shooting-ground. Wild boar arc also to be found, but they are scarce. On one occasion we unkenneled a veteran. Several times he ran the gauntlet through the beaters, but as often was forced on foot again. A final effort for his destruction was made, the force of shooters being so dispospd that every known pass was guarded. Among the disciples of the chase was a very tall and propor- tionably lank engineer. He was armed with a most formidable double-barrel of French manufacture, to the end of which was attached a bayonet, terrible even to look at. Ten minutes of suspense ensued. The beaters. ■Id. res filled the bag. nhuul from Tarifa, , besides the aforc- iid wild fowl can be ist not be forgotten, 1 soul — a bon-vivant ny stay I met him bid him farewell, I might find it conve- V or two afterwards ly popular with my protracted over a rood quail-shooting ampcamento, only a rate! But it is the le worm. The late or driven off ere he but they are scarce, a veteran. Several the beaters, but as . final effort for his >f shooters being so IS guarded. Among ery tall and propor- armcd with a most I manufacture, to the )net, terrible even to nsued. The beaters. Rambles in Spain. 41 breaking through the brush as they approach the stands, are at length heard ; the game must bolt, and bolt it did, between the engineer's legs, while both his bullets deeply bedded themselves in a neighbouring tree, and the sword-bayonet was almost as much doubled as a reaping-hook, for the aspirant for sylvan honours had been thrown off his pins, obtaining a purl that doubtless he even now well remembers. The hog h:i ' .ken cover just in front of him, had been unseen ai unheard till almost between our friend's legs, and the apparition was so sudden and unexpected that both head and legs were lost at the same time. The lower class of Spaniards in the neighbourhood of Gibraltar are, with few exceptions, a most disreputable crew. It is, therefore, advisable to have as little to do with them as possible. Few seasons pass over without rows occurring between them and our countrymen, and invariably in my experience the former ha-/e been the aggressors. I remember such a contretemps, in which I unfortu- nately figured, but luckily came off scathless. We were out hunting near the first venta ; the hounds were at fault, and while a cast was being made, I tally-hoed, Pug stealing away. The horse which I that day rode was a black stallion of most uncertain temper ; an admirable fencer when he pleased, but that was seldom. Taking my nag in hand, I ran him at a bank intervening between me and where reynard passed, that I might give the hounds a lift and place them on the fresh trail. This he ieared cleverly, and away went the pack. I tried to follow, but the bad-tempered brute, although he had I 42 All Round the World. jumped into the enclosure, could not be induced to jump out Whip and spur were both plied without effect ; the blackguard had sulked, and ten minutes at least were required to bully him into his senses. In the meantime a Spaniard, armed with a gun, entered the field. Without explanation or question he coolly threw his gun to his shoulder and took aim at me. I tried to wheel my horse round and ride the fellow down, but being unable to manage it, had to remain a target whether I liked it or not. The gun did not go off. I believe it missed fire, for several times he took it down as if to recock it. At length my fiend of a horse thought he had enough punishment, and I was about to wheel him round and rush at the would-be assassin, when one of my comrades, seeing my position, jumped into the field and felled the Spaniard with the butt of his crop. Neither of us waited to ask any questions as to the effect the blow had pro- duced, but followed after the tail of the hunt. The sea-fishing at Gibraltar is very good, but this amusement does not appear to be popular there. Al- though I devoted much time to it, I could seldom find a companion. One great pleasure I occasionally enjoyed was a trip in the Genoese fishing-boats from Catalin Bay to a bank four or five miles off in the Mediter-anean. How delightful were those calm serene evenings— how perfect the repose— while every few minutes the deep- voiced conch-shell, used by the fishermen for signalising one another, boomed over the water ! My companions on these occasions were the most thorough personification of pirates in appearance, and often in costume— just such as you could imagine, with pisi pi a h.ii inti pie the rea ( wh of les noi sin fro on wl: th( he fo! th Rambles in Spain. 43 J induced to jump vithout effect ; the ites at least were In the meantime he field. Without cw his gun to his :ied to wheel my , but being unable whether I liked it lieve it missed fire, f to recock it. At It he had enough el him round and le of my comrades, leld and felled the either of us waited the blow had pro- le hunt. :ry good, but this )opular there. Al- '. could seldom find ccasionally enjoyed s from Catalin Bay the Mediterranean, ene evenings — how minutes the deep- rmen for signalising 3ns were the most in appearance, and could imagine, with pistols and stilettoes sticking out of every available place, telling a fellow quietly to walk the plank, and handing him a cigarette at the same time to cheer him into the next world. Then how brown were their com- plexions, how black their hair and eyes ! and, oh ! how they smelt of garlic, an addition not inappropriate ! The real pirate, I believe, should always smell of oil and garlic. On these banks the take of fish was always large ; and what between pipe and sport, and an occasional snatch of a wild Spanish song, lauding the praises of the reck- less contrabandistas, time used to fly rapidly. It was not necessary however to go so far as this bank for sport, since all along the rocks, in the bays and indentations, from Europa Point to the Neutral Ground, especially on the Mediterranean side, fish were abundant. With strong rod and tackle, and a sardine for bait, what beauties I have captured out of the surf beating on the eastern shore ! For this work your sinker must be heavy, and the angler prepared to lose plenty of tackle, for the under-tow is very strong, the bottom rough, and the fish sometimes monsters. In fine clear weather, when the sea is calm, trimmer- fishing afforded me much pleasure. I would set six or eight of these in a row to drift with the current, and watch them from my boat ; nor would they be long left alone. Presently one would dip two or three times, then go down altogether. Hereupon, laying heartily to the oars, we would start in pursuit. Up again would come the cork, to go down and reappear in quite a different direction. To and fro we then would pursue, till a chance was afforded of using the gaff. ■A 44 //// Round the World. In the h«iU«s ainonrf the rocks eels were plentiful, and many an hour I spent in their capture. To be succi'ss- ful, patience rather than skill is rc(iuisite. The inelhod was on this wise : a piece of stronjj cord, about ei|.jht or nine feet lon^;, attached to a hook tied on ^imp, baited with fish, was dropped into the crevices. In a few minutes, if there were any occupants, you would feel a bite. Don't be in a hurry ; wait patiently, for, like a snake swallowin^r his food, an eel requires plenty of time. However, when you strike, do it sharply. lUit althou^di we will suppose that you have now got your fish on, time will elapse before you can call him yours, for they will double round stones and .squeeze themselves into all kinds of inaccessible places, from which they car only be coaxed by keepinff a heavy, steady strain. The larj^er the fish, as may be expected, the longer will be the contest ; and not unusual will be the loss of tackle, for congers have great aptitude for freeing themselves with their teeth. Rabbits, porcupines, and red-legged partridge, abound on the upper portions of the rock, but they are strictly protected ; and right it is so, for they are great orna- ments to so circumscribed a space. Apes are also here to be found, but althuugh tolerably numerous, are not often seen. In fact, many believe their existence a myth. However, two or three times I had the luck to come across them. On one occasion I was returning at break of day from visiting the sentries and guards, furnished by the detachment at Catalin Bay, of which post I was then in command. The night had been stormy and cold, with a westerly wind. The apes, which were about ccls were plentiful, and aptiirc. To be siicccss- miuisite. Tlie method on^' cord, about eij^ht or ok tied oil ^inip, Ijaited he crevices. In a few pants, you would feel a ait patiently, for, like a requires plenty of time. : sharply. Ikit although : now fjot your fish on, call him yours, for they iceze themselves into all 1 which they car only be ;ady strain. The larj;er the lonjfer will be the )c the I0S.S of tackle, for ■ freeing them.sclves with legged partridge, abound )ck, but they are strictly for they are great orna- lace. Apes are also here rably numerous, are not ^e their existence a myth. [ had the luck to come was returning at break of md guards, furnished by of which post I was then been stormy and cold, apes, which were about Rambles in Spain. 45 twenty in number, had doubtlessly come to the ea.st side for shelter. Hefore tlie creatures saw me, I was within forty or fifty yards. Their surprise at my intrusion— their awkward attempt at escape, as they shuftled otf— were very amusing. Beside the officers' quarters at Catalin Hay there was a large mulberry-tree. The fruit, when ripe, used to dis- appear in the mo.st marvellous manner. Thinking some of the men were the depredators, I lay ^vv/// one bright night, with a poodle remarkable for his sagacity for my comi)anion. At length the ilog became fidgety, and rushed off, giving tongue. I followed, fortunately for the poodle, for there were at lea^^t a dozen apes, who ap- pcared in no way intimidated till I approached. Doubt- less these were the scoundrels who had deprived me of my fruit. There are some pretty rides within access of Gibraltar. One that I freciuently took and alwa>-s enjo>-ed was to Los Varios. This village is beautifully situated in a wooded valley, surrounded by grand hills, picturesque and bold in their outline. At the vcnhi, where we were in the habit of putting up our horses and having lunch, there was a true type of the Andalusian belle. She was the daughter of the host, and sometimes waited upon us. A more beautiful or graceful girl I have seldom seen. Once I met her at a bull-f\ght at Algesiras. Of course she was at grandc tcnuc on such an occasion. Never did mantilla fall over more graceful shoulder.s— never did slipper cover a more beautiful foot and ankle. She did not walk— she glided over the surface of the ground, as a denizen of another world might be imagined to do. 46 All Round the World. Near Los Varies is a wild, pic'.uresque v.aterfall, embedded deeply in trees and rocks. On the warmest days in summer, shade from the sun can always here be found ; in the pool beneath a most delightful bath can be enjoyed. This scene has often vividly recalled some of our Scotch linns. But I must say no more of dear old Gibraltar. How many know it, and doubtless remember the hours there passed with ?.s much pleasure as I do ! World. , pic'.uresque v , minus the fig-leaf, he but head and shoulders ith a green bough held before him for a screen, he advanced within easy range of the unsuspicious game. On the margin of this swamp were abumlant indica- tions that it was a favourite haunt of wild boar ; the marks of their wallowings were everywhere discernible, and some of the foot-prints clearly told that they had been made by giant veterans. Observing one of my dogs most uncomfortable, and bleeding aljout the nviz/.le, on examination I found a leech had fastened in the interior of his mouth, close to the root of his tongue. Leeches are here very abundant, .-nd it is no unusual occurrence for both horses and dogs to suffer from their attentions. With a heavy load of game we returned to Tangiers by a different route from that by which we had come. One portion of ihe road was very pretty, being covered wiiii dwarf timber, among which (much improving and imparting an l-:astern tone to the picture) were feeding a large drove of camels and their young. Thoroughly fatigued, we reached the gates of the city j jst in time to gain admi.ssion. While in this portion of Northern Africa I had .several days' hog-shooting. The haunts of these animals during the day are the rough sid-^s of hills, in ravines and nullahs, where the brush is dense, consequently there is seldom a possibility of riding to them, and the u.se of the gun instead of the spear becomes admissible. Hardly any animal is gifted with more vitalit}-, and will carry off more lead ; I remember a veteran boar running the gauntlet of four double guns within easy range, and each shot told, yet the hero went off as if nothing had 56 All Roinid the World. (.ccurrtcl ; tluit cvcnini;. howcvxr, he \x-u. found dead two miles from Nvhcx- he received his death-wounds. At „i.du these animals ciuit their lairs, ard descend to the low grounds to wallow and feed on the fruits ui the crardens and crops in the enclosures of the natives. I-rom beinti so th.n-.,u-hly nocturnal in their habits they arc seldom seen, but the results of their forays are to be met with io every direction. The general mode f.f shootin- them is to drive the covers with beaters while the sportsmen stand on the runs, which are usually dry water-courses. As the cover is very dense, the ^un should be kept at fu cock for P momentary clatter anionp the stones is all the wu-nin- received, and if your fire is not rapidly delivered the brute is through between your legs (very possibly knocking you over) and out of sight in a moment. • i 4. There is little or no dr.nger on such occasions ; but when the boar is wounded and brought to bay, look out for squalls if you approach him ! To the westward of Tangi..-3 many of the consuls have fine gardens situated close to the sea. Ihe rocks beneath are pai Ocularly grand, lofty, and rugged m then- outline Amonr these cliffs are numerous caves haunted by large flocks of rock-pigeons. As these birds return tVom their feeding-grounds just before sunset, goo(' port car be obtained at them. However, there is one objec- tion to this pastime : you will find it impossible to re- cover nearly half the pigeons killed. Nowhere have I seen the eagles more numerous than along this coast during the spring and autumn of 0> ■Id. c w U' found dead two IS dcath-wdunds. At 5, ard descend to the on the fruits in the surcs of the natives. a\ in their habits they their forays are to be; them is to drive the ortsmen stand on the atcr-courr.cs. A s the lould be kept at full nonrr the stones is all )ur fire is not rapidly tween your legs (very ul out of sight in a Barbarv Field r.horts. 57 in such occasions ; but ■ought to bay, look out many of the consuls to the sea. The rocks ifty, and rugged in their lumerous caves haunted As these birds return •cfore sunset, good port ever, there is one objec- ind it impossible to re-- ed. eagle? more numerous e spring and autumn of the year. At these periods they are doubtlessly mi- grating to antl from luirope. Hawks of nearly every variety are also abundant, even those of the most choice breeds. idthough I was not successful in shooting any speci- mens of the bustard proper {Otis ttirda), durin-/ some parts of the j-ear they are to be found in this neighbour- hood in considerable numbers, increasing in abundance, I was informed, as you proceeded inland. The little bustard {O. tctrax) is, however, plentiful, and I hail the pleasure of bagging many ; their flight mucli resembles that of the curlew, and though perhaiis deserving the appellation oi a wary bird, with strategy they can be obtained. The best method I found was to walk outside my horse, describing gradually-diminishing circles till within range. On the tabh- the little bustard will be found most palatable, and worthy of more trouble to kill than usually is accorded to game of greater mag- nitude. Storks are also numerous, but do not come under the sportsman's category of game, so I will say nothing further of them. In the lower ranges of the Atlas fallow deer are found in considerable numbers ; in the upper ranges a mam- moth stag— at least, so I have been informed on trust- worthy authority. Not much is known of the distant interior, particularly towards the cast coast, inhabited by the Reefians, a race of freebooters and pirates. It is a well-ascertained fact, however, that the lion is still to be found there. I-'ourteen or fifteen miles from Tangiers I was shown where the last lion known in that vicinity was killed. The spot 58 Ml Round the World. was just suited for such an episode— an immense rock standing; lil,.-head of steam we proceeded, and in due course of tin.c, after running close by Pantaleria, an island where Sardinian convicts are imprisoned— it is far too lovely for such a purpose — we reached 'Malta. While in this part of the Mediterranean, a rather remarkable instance of canine vindictiveness or rev-nge took place. Several of my companions had dog. on board. One was a French poodle whose antics and 64 All Round the World. tricks made her the pet of all ; another was a retriever equally well educated ; while a Skye-terr.er was the ^^"xhe attentions of the two latter to the lady poodle vvere very marked, and at len<,nh the demon of jea.ousy being aroused, sundry passages of teeth took place ; the retriever, from his superior size, always worstmg the ter- rier At length, one day, the larger dog seized the smaller, carried him to the gangway and dropped him overboard. Several people saw this take place, bu were unable to interfere from the rapidity with which the whole deed was transacted. The excitement on deck Wght me from the cabin, when I beheld the poor little t i^ier swimming in the wake of the vessel. As ere was a stiff breeze at the time the Captain was unui hng to lower a boat, and the terrier was consequently lost, very much to the grief of his owner. . In the autumn and spring of the year, along the coast of Morocco and Algeria, immense hordes of porpoises and tunny-fish pass and re-pass. By day and night they can be distinctly seen, rolling and plunging under he waist or stern of the vessel. From the dolphu. s^rikei which projects under the bowsprit, if you are able to „g oi by the skin of your eyebrows-for the footing s 1 nied-with the harpoon good sport can be obtained. But the moment you strike, and the victim b--"-f j"^- paled, it must be dragged from the water without delay, or it will be certain to escape. , , n ^ Close to Cape Bona, as the vessel skirted a headland, I perceived two bottle-nosed porpoises coming towards us I went for^^'ard to the bow where my harpoon and 0) Id, Apat in the Mediterranean. 65 lothcr was a retriever, Skyc-tcrricr was the r to the lady poodle le demon of jealousy teeth took place ; the tvays worsting the tcr- irt^cr dog seized the vay and dropped him is take place, but were )idity with which the z excitement on deck I beheld the poor little the vessel. As there Captain was unwilling was consequently lost, e year, along the coast se hordes of porpoises By day and night they nd plunging under the •om the dolphin striker prit, if you are able to rows— for the footing is sport can be obtained, the victim becomes im- ,he water without delay, ssel skirted a headland, irpoiscs coming towards where my harpoon and line lay prepared, and three or four of the watch who were lounging on the forecastle laid hold of the slack and waited for the blow to be delivered. Soon the game was within reach, over and over they rolled, almost pcrmit- tin^ the cutwater to bump them ; ixt length a chance was offered and I drove the steel home. " Haul !" I shouted to my assistants, and haul they did ; but the foe was too heavy, all their straining and efforts could not get the brute from the water ; long was the struggle and, alas ! the rope broke, when Mr. Porpoise departed at express speed, taking, as a memento of his escape, my good and well-tried harpoon. From Cape Bon to Pantalcria is only a few hour-:, from the latter to Gozo about the same distance. When this portion of the voyage is performed during the migration of quails immense numbers will fly on board, even in sufficient quantities to feed a ship's com- pany. When on board the old government troop-ship. Urgent, close to Pantaleria, a sudden change of wind brought up a disagreeable ground-swell, and the old vessel pitched about in that lumbering manner peculiarl)- her own. Quail had been seen during the early part of the day, but they had passed onwards disregarding us ; but the change of wind caused them now to act differently, for the new breeze was an adverse one, and the little travelling strangers were glad to rest their wearied wings upon our decks. Poor little creatures, so fatigued were they that without an effort they permitted themselves to be taken. Although I consider Valetta the prettiest city with which I am acquainted and one of the very pleasantest places to pass a month or two of wiiitc in, it is -.vithout exception, as far as field sports go, the worst station it has been my lot to visit. True, at certain times a few migra- tory birds can be killed, but success h so uncertain that one can never oe sure of obtaining sport. _ For yachting and boating Malta is eminently suited. At the same time it must not be imagined that it never vs there— aye, it does blow ; and the most veteran sailor must acknowledge that there are pleasanter posi- tions than being caught in a ^n'j^alv: however, they do not last, but are proportionably violent to the shortness of their existence. One January afternoon I left Malta on board a small vessel ; the wind was fair, and with all the canvas we could set, merrily and swiftly we increased the distance between ourselves and land. When the sun set, the sky foretold no indication of change ; still at midnight we were lying-to under n cl.xse-reefed main- sail with a wild and broken sea every few minutes making a breach over us. In four hours the squall had subsided, and day broke clear and tranquil, while the coast of Sicily, smiling in its luxuriant vegetation and dotted with white cottages, lay close to windward. But during that squall we lost a hand overboard, a fan-haircd boy, from fourteen to fifteen years old, the favourite of all. Poor lad 1 with others of his watch, he was sent to stow the jib, the craft pitched heavily into an unusually large sea, and he was hurried prematurely into a sailor's grave. Mas ! such is life ; while in the possession of the most robust health, how often are we close to the destroyer I ^orld. vintc. in, it is -.vithout the worst station it has ain times a few migra- ;s is so uncertain that sport. ta is eminently suited. ima<;ineJ that it never and the most veteran re arc pleasantcr posi- ^alc : however, they do olcnt to the shortness afternoon I left Malta i was fair, and with all nd swiftly we increased d land. When the sun on of change ; still at ;r p close-reefed main- sea every few minutes ir hours the squall had and tranquil, while the ixuriant vegetation and lose to windward. But [ overboard, a fair-haired i old, the favourite of all. tch, he was sent to stow Lvily into an unusually •ematurely into a sailor's s in the possession of the 1 are we close to the An Indian Hunting Encampment. CHAPTER VII. AN INDIAN HUNTING li NCAMI'MUNT. Lr.r others boast and proudly toast 'J'ht: lit;lit of ladies' eyes. And swear the rose less perfume tluows Than beauty's fraj^rant sighs ; The ripe, red lilis in hue eclipse The ruby's radiant gem, That woman 's far the brightest star In Nature's diadem. Yet since, for me, no charms I see In all the sex can show, And smile and tear alike appear. And heedless flash or flow, I'll change my theme, and fondly deem- True sportsmen jiledge me here. And fdl my cup, and dr.ain it uj). To saddle, spur, and spear. But while I sing, Time's rapid wing This lesson seems to teach— The joy and bliss of sport like this Are still within our reach. Then let 's away at break of day. Ride vale and hill-top o'er. Scale mountain's side, or stem the tide. To spear the flying boar. rf .::«■• 68 All Routid the IVorhl. Aiul Time may then ImnR love again, When WL' at i>lcasurc's sliiiur, To check liis llit;ht for one «ay height Will wel his wint; wiih wine ; An ur.re .uy horse. Worse than all, my s.tual.on was ru - dered cUn.bly miserable by one of those pelt.ng tropcal showers coming on. that so frequently take P';- '^^ ^ chanueof the monsoc.n. beating the poor verdure Nv.th u terrible force that it is only a wonder that each :: and blade of grass can resist being forced nUo the bowels of the earth. My poor horse Han.et. Nvho, n; the n orning. had been all life. fire, and courage, was now inc n.orm ;,. ^ j occasionally fat <^ued and crestlallen, anu uul inuL touched his ..lOW-white flanks with my sharp persuaders, and shook him up with the bit. he would doubtless have fallen. I managed, however, to keep moving, each flash of lichtning causing him to start with fear, so viv.d and tpp^oached the electric fluid. At length the torrent of rain began to slacken, and I was looking forward to the far from enviable position, "a night's bivouac m a strange neighbourhood." abounding with beasts of prey when my eyes were gladdened and my spirits restored by a sig^.t of three white tents snugly nestling under the shade of a grove of banians, with -vera horses nicketed at regular intervals. I wa. well aware that ^ untrymen onfy could be their occupants, and w.hou hesitation determined, according to the hospitable habit of he East, to demand both shelter and food for man and beast No sooner thought than done ; I directed my ourse to the largest tent, and, dismounting J-m J "ag and slipping the snaffle-rein over my arm, I called for a holet'oolic!when. who should pop out his head through r 70 All Round the World. the (ly-cioor but my jolly, pood-tcmpcrcd friend Steer. I li.ul iK)i seen him for more than two years, and on that occasion wc parted in i'aris. little expecting,' that the next time wc met would be under an Indian sky. For some time neither spoke, so ^'rcat was our mutual astonishment, but as soon as he had recovered lus powers of utterance, he welcomed me, and would hear of nothing else than a promise to remain and join their party for the few remaining,' days of their hunt. After a due amount of hallooing, a Hyce* put in his appearance, to whose care my gallant .steed was en- trusted, with a caution that if a soil or mark of the day's travel should be found on him on the morrow, the groom's dusky hide would be tanned into leather and his life be considerably jeopardized. Inside I was in- troduced to Barker and McCarthy, both of whom I had frequently heard of as the hardest riding and most inde- fatigable sportsmen in the Presidency. Soon I effected a change of raiment ; one supplying me with unmen- tionables, another a coat, and so on, each vieing with the other who could do the most for the unexpected visitor. " Where arc you come from .'" " Where are you going } " " How did you come here ? " " Take a drink .' " "Have a smoke?" "What shall it be, brandy or sherry .' " &c., &c., &c., were showered upon me as quick as each could talk, giving mc not a chance to slip in a word even edgeways. As a final chance, and running a risk of being deemed rude, I called them to order, and obtained an opportunity to explain myself. Steer, with his ♦ Native groom. 'orhi. pcrcd frkiul Steer. I () years, aiul on that L- expecting that the an Indian sky. Fi>r :at was our mutual c had recovered his me, and would hear to remain and join I days of their hunt. ;, a Hyce* put in his .dlant steed was en- il or mark of the day's on the morrow, the ined into leather and L-d. Inside I was in- , both of whom I had riding and most inde- cncy. Soon I effected 'ing me with unmcn- ) on, each vieing with St for the unexpected Mil .'" " Where are you e?" "Take a drink ?" all it be, brandy or ;red upon me as quick ; a chance to slip in a chance, and running a lied them to order, and myself. Steer, with his An Indian I/unting Ilnawipmcnt. usual consideration, calling t.. the hoy who had charge of the commissariat department to supply me u ith a st.lt glass ..f bran.ly-pavvnee and a eher..ot. having a most astute knowU.lgc of what would be beneficial and enjoyable a ter nn- ducking. Soon my yarn was spun, and a courier des- nutched to inform my comrades of my safety, and w,th u rec.uest that they w.n.ld strike can.p and hurry up a.u ioin us The rain now had entirely ceased, and as we sat d.nvn to dinner .,/yV...<'. all . .ture being invigorated, the green of the foliage was doubly brilliant, an.i each tree appeared to contain a perfect choir of songsters What a jovial meal we had; game in profusion, potted meats, pickled lobster, and as ^.-i. a mango-curry and muUagatawny soup as ever graced the board of a Governor-General I Then the fruits and wines-Madeira that had twice doubled the Cape, luxurious port and claret almost as old as ourselves, and brandy not a wh.t younger, with an inexhaustible store of Schweppe s in- comparable soda-water. If we indulged, who couhl be so hardhearted as to condemn .> The conversation turned on the absorbing subjects, the horse, hound, spear and rific. My hosts had been out for some weeks, but their desire for sport had not yet flagged, although they had killed an immense quantity and variety of game. 1 he following day had been set aside by them for the destruction of an enormous boar, who for months had roamed the neigh- bourhood, making sad havoc an:ong the natives sugar- cane, a terror to all. and not unlike Alexander Selkirk, monarch of all he surveyed, but, with a great dislike to society, which he, without reluctance, showed to any un- fortuna: darkic whom chance threw in his way. Over 72 All Round the Wo- Id. and over again our glasses were filled, deeds of prowess were recounted, and as the generous wine began more freely to circulate, loose reins were given to both our tongues and imaginations, and I have little doubt, if an outsider could have h'^ard our conversation, he would have put us all down for the veriest set of braggarts that ever stretched their limbs under mahogany. At length wine was discarded as too washy, and the more potent and ever popular brandy-and-soda circulated in place. The programme of to-morrow was not forgotten, and if we could have been taken at our word, no knight of old or gallant crusader could have performed greater or more perilous deeds than the happy quartet there assem- bled. To bed we no doubt got, but how ? is the question ; nevertheless we found ourselves with throbbing heads and feverish pulses awake at break of day, very desirous of a dash of brandy in our coffee, or, still better, a goodly draught of hock cmd seltzer-water. It has been frequently and well stated that there is no rest for the wicked, and doubtless we were classed in that category, for our attendants persisted in reminding us that our horses were saddled and the beaters and shikarees wait- ing. I had already exhausted my entire stock of ammu- nition in shape of bootjacks, boots, &c., that lay within reach, by throwing them at the intruders' heads, when I found that the incessant disturbance had driven the fickle Somnus from my embrace. To be up and doing was certainly better than restlessly kicking about under bedclothes ; so I summoned my exhausted energy to the rescue and sprang from my couch. Little time was lost in donning my habiliments and gaining the open air. l ^^^di i iJlSr*''* 'JJ") ' -Wj |l g[|3 >jft g NW ^0- Id. led, deeds of prowess ■ous wine began more :re given to both our lave little doubt, if an onversation, he would t set of braggarts that nahogany. At length and the more potent la circulated in place. 8 not forgotten, and if vord, no knight of old performed greater or >y quartet there assem- it how ? is the question ; with throbbing heads k of day, very desirous fifee, or, still better, a er-water. It has been there is no rest for the lassed in that category, reminding us that our ;ers and shikarees wait- 7 entire stock of ammu- 3ts, &c., that lay within ntruders' heads, when I •bancc had driven the To be up and doing ly kicking about under r exhausted energy to ouch. Little time was nd gaining the open air. An Indian Hunting Encampment. 73 Two of my friends I found on the ground ; the thn-d could not be drawn although several attempts were made, for he became pugnacioui ; so we determined to leave him behind, well knowing that an idle day m camp, with no associates and nothing to amuse him, would be a sufficient punishment. On inspecting Hamet, I found that he had scarcely recovered from his previous day's fatigue, and as he was entered for several races at the cantonments and I had already backed him for a considerable amount I deter- mined not to go. McCarthy, however, with the charac- teristic kindness of his countrymen, insisted that 1 should ride a horse of his, a young Australian thorough- bred, of great speed and beauty, that he had lately im- ^°Without loss of time Goldfindor was led up, and all his owner said in his praise was but justice. The siky short coat, fine thin mane and tail, deep gu-th and broad chest enormous hind - qup.ters, immensely muscular arms and small, flat legs, spoke doubtless of a pedigree without blot or stain. However, as I gloated over bis fascinating shape, I could not help noticing a peculiar devilish twinkle about his eyes, as the saddle was placed on his back, that practice and experience informed me denoted rather a queer temper. McCarthy observed my sture and coolly remarked, with the utmost sang froid, .< He's a trifle difficult to sit at first ; but it's all over m a minute " Said McCarthy had hunted in his youth with the Blazers,* and considered anything rideable that . A celebrated pack, of foxhouads in Ge way, whose supporters are noted for their hard ridinR. J 74 All Round the World. could cany a saddle ; consequently, he never had any- thing but vixens in his stable, for whenever he heard of a nag who had nearly or entirely killed his rider, or whom nobody could handle, and whom the happy possessor would sell for a song to be rid of, McCarthy came to the front and purchased him at his own price. The result was that he was better mounted, and that at a third of the money, than any other officer in the Presi- dency. rid. First Blood. 75 , he never had any- lenevcr he heard of killed his rider, or 1 the happy possessor McCarthy came to nis own price. The anted, and that at a - officer in the Presi- CH AFTER VIII. FIRST BLOOD. NOW as McCarthy's ideas on this subject were just mine, and as success had always gilded my efforts I did not hesitate to try the issue. Without trouble I got up to the horse's withers, and with a vault put myself m the saddle. The groom, either out of ignorance or thmk- ing I was seated, let go his head before I could get my fe?t in the irons, and a series of efforts was performed by the vicious animal that required all the nerve and pluck of which I was possessed to counteract. O all the manoeuvres that a wicked horse can practise there are none so troublesome as buck-jumpmg. For the un- initiated, I will describe the operation. The horse hogs his back, springs rapidly, repeatedly, and perpendicularly into the air, lighting on all fours at the same moment and strange to say, the close tight seat, so mucn to be ^ecolended generally, is here unavailing. For the very life of me I could not get my feet into the irons, and as I had been nearly unhorsed several times. I determined to 76 All Round the World. become aggressor, and at least have the satisfaction of drawing blood, even if I did get a spill. My spurs were Latchford's best, and tolerably severe, and as my nag rose for a further essay, I sunk my toes and forced my heels well under and into his flanks. With a snort of pain and rage, he broke into a gallop, the very thing I desired, and witliout respite I kept him at top speed for at least a couple of miles. When I rejoined my confreres his glossy b'y coat was lathered with sweat, his flanks heaved and nostrils stood expanded, but the viciousness had disappeared, and a very child might now have handled hirvi. The effect of the excitement and the rapid passage through the air was most beneficial to myself, for the be aed, feveri.sh headache had disappeared, and I was rcjuxcaatcd. While my humbled steed underwent a scrape, i enjoyed an excellent cup of tea, which put me thoroughly to rights. Our beaters and shikarees, from the 'cngthened delay, had become very impatient ; so, to keep them in good humour, we started without fur'h'n- d>.>''.' . Barker and McCarthy had the reputation .:f being second to none in thi;- most exciting and often dangerous amusement, for both, o:- s; v,„ral occasions, had carried the spear of oonour wlsen wit' the Bengal Club— no small achieve- ment among such noted sportsmen. For myself, this was nearly a maiden effort, and, from my late arrival, I was considered by both a "griffin," a favourite ex- pression for a new arrival, or, more correctly, a green hand. The morning, as is frequent after rain, was all that could be desired, cool, bracing, and invigorating, and irld. First Blood. 11 lave the satisfaction J get a spill. My :olerably severe, and ay, I sunk my toes and into his flanks. :, he broke into a and without respite 5t a couple of miles. glossy b.:y coat was 'ed and nostrils stood [ disappeared, and a ed hii'.i. The effect ssage through the air the he aed, feveri.sh is rejuvenated. While icrape, ! enjoyed an tlioroughly to rights, the 'cngthened delay, ) keep them in good r d> ' • . Barker and jeing stcond to none ancerous amusement, I carried the spear of lb — no small achieve- en. For myself, this from my late arrival, iffin," a favourite ex- ore correctly, a green ter rain, was all that ind invigorating, and merrily we chatted as we rode along, over open savannah covered with brush, or rolling hill-sides clothed with timber, every few steps flushing game, often br.lhant m their resplendent plumage. Three or four miles brought us to the place where we intended commencmg our beat. As far as I could judge the ground was most favourable ; a long valley, level at the bottom, densely planted with su-ar-cane, with about a hundred yards of deep thick iun-le on either side, running along its entire length, which must have been quite a couple of miles. \ rom the upper edge of the valley, on both sides, the plam stretched away for miles, and uninterrupted by anything large enou-h to deserve the denomination of a tree. In truth, after years of experience, I have never met a place so admirably adapted for our purpose as the Todah Valley. McCarthy soon gave the necessary instructions to the sable beaters, ordering them to go to the top of the ravine, and, extended at regular intervals like a company of skirmishers, beat it from end to end. While waiting, to -ive them sufficient time to reach the place where they were to commence, a more picturesque sporting tableau could scarcely be conceived. Captain McCarthy -habited in a short fustian jacket, the colour of which nearly approached to the faded tints of withered herb- age his lir.os encased in well-fitting, white buckskm breeches and boots, looked a perfect Apollo in form, thou-h probably a little under medium height, his hand- some sunburnt features radiant with expected excite- ment • a fine specimen of a handsome, well-bred Irish gentleman-leant upon the neck of his noble horse, a perfect type of the high-class Arab ; while Barker wa: 78 All Round the World. not one 'hit behind his friend in Nature'? gifts, though of a totally different style. The Anglo-Saxon was strongly indicated in his laughing, fair countenance, lit up with the best-tempered pair of dark blue eyes, shaded with a pro- fusion of fair, bright curly locks ; his attire was of the same sporting cut and texture, only, if anything, a little more foppish ; his steed was from the same desert regions, a perfect specimen of that justly-lauded breed. Two more daring or dashing soldiers c ; horsemen it would be difficult to find, and although years have passed since their life's blood was shed in their country's cause, their names still li^•c in sporting circles as undoubted noblesse in the art of vcncric. Poets and authors have lauded the Arab horse, and worthily does this most noble animal deserve all the praise that can be bestowed on him. For those who have not had opportunities of making his acquaintance, a few words of description may not be thrown away. Their general colour is white or gray, occasionally chesnut, and more rarely brown ; height rarely exceeding fourteen hands and a half; broad, expanded forehead; remarkably large, bright, intelligent eyes ; fine, tapering muzzle ; immense nostrils and deep jowl ; small pricked ears ; thin withers ; splendid shoulder ; barrel-like car- --ase ; very compact, muscular quarters ; tail set very high a:)d square, with legs beneath the knee flat as a board ; though scarcely as fast as our best thorough- breds, yet capable of occasionally doing their mile in 1-48, as the racing calendar of India will fjrove ; but in addition to all these good qualities, they stand out paramount in clor.ility, endurance, and courage, for they will face the fiercest beast of prey their rider can charge )rld. ure's gifts, though of -Saxoa was strongly nance, lit up with the 3, shaded with a pro- is attire was of the ', if anything, a little m the same desert justly-lauded breed, c ." horsemen it would irs have passed since ;ountry's cause, their undoubted noblesse in have lauded the Arab noble animal deserve 1 him. For those who ing his acquaintance, lot be thrown away, ir gray, occasionally ;ight rarely exceeding expanded forehead ; 1. eyes ; fine, tapering D jowl ; small pricked Ider ; barrel-like car- arters ; tail set very h the knee flat as a s our best thorough- ly doing their mile in iia will jjrove ; but in ities, they stand out and courage, for they their rider can charge First Blood. 79 them at. relying entirely on the will and discretion of their jockey, a performance which I have seldom found an Australian horse equal to, and still less an Lnglish animal. , ,. ^ i Half an hour must have elapsed when the distant sound of the beaters struck welcomcly on the ear, and Captain McCarthy proposed an immediate taking to saddle and cessation of conversation. As we did not wish to sepa- rate wc determined all to remain on one side, as there was'known to be quite a surplus of game on the beat and if we failed to kill the veteran to-day, we should find sufficient to amuse us. and defer his fate to a future occasion. The Captain and Lieutenant— the latter was Barker's rank— were soon in the saddle; first having each carefully selected a spear from the half dozen carried by their favourite shikaree or constant hunting attendant, and calling on me to attend them, put their respective horses, Saltoun and Zampa, to a smart canter, striV-ing for the edge of the ravine, where the brush looked'thicker and more impenetrable. Louder and louder the discordant but still exhilarating cries of the beaters struck upon our impatient ears. Occasionally a more demonstrative shout would rise, indicating that the quarry was afoot and had been seen. With our nerves strung to the greatest possible tension, keeping the most profound silence we awaited the result. An occasional rustling, or cracking of some withered limb, would place us upon the qui Vive; but the sound would soon die away, telling that the intruder had preferred passing on, and retaining the shelter of the interwoven scrub to taking the open country. Step by step the beaters advanced, and the J 8o All Round the World. delay was becoming painful. The .' vvarthy natives having nearly got abreast of our position, we were on the point of moving half a mile farther clown, when, to our delight, a grizzled old veteran, his snow- white tusks and jaws bedaubed with saliva, rushed for the open, and with a speed perfectly astonishing for an animal of such ungainly and awkward proportions. Not one of us moved a muscle, well knowing if the boar became alarmed before he got some distance on the plain, he would probably return to the friendly shelter he had just left. On he went in a straight line, evidently determined to make for a belt of bush about three miles distant. As McCarthy detected growing indications of a desire for immediate pursuit, he begged that we would let the brute have a few minutes' more law, adding, sotto voce, " Perhaps when you get near him, the cultivation of his acquaintance may not be quite- so desirable." At length, with one accord, pursuit was commenced, and setSing myself down in the saddle, foot home in the stirrup, and nag well in hand, I settled into a slashing gallop. My mount was excessively restless, probably from his being frequently raced, and v> ith all my exertion I could not get his head down. I was much lighter than my acquaintances, and that, in combination with the irregularity of the surface of the ground, gave me an im- mense advantage, so that, almost before I was aware of it, I was leading by several lengths. Even thus early my nag had made several stumbles from his stargazing pro- pensity, but what to do .'—I would rather break my neck than pull up. I believe I would cheerfully have given a month's pay and allowances on a double batta station to wld. he rwarthy natives r position, we were mile farther down, d veteran, his snow- th saliva, rushed for :ctly astonishing for ivvkward proportions, well knowing if the some distance on the the friendly shelter he traight line, evidently ush about three miles owing indications of a jegged that we would iiore law, adding, sotto him, the cultivation of itc- so desirable." At was commenced, and Jlc, foot home in the cttled into a slashing rely restless, probably id v> :th all my exertion was much lighter than combination with the ground, gave me an im- before I was aware of IS. Even thus early my rom his stargazing pro- d rather break my neck cheerfully have given a double batta station to First Blood. 8i have had on a martingale ; however, I consoled myself that as some distance was yet to be travelled before. I came alongside my antagonist, the fatigue would some- what reduce the surplus fire in my now hateful mount. For the first half mile we did not appear to be over- taking our prey, but afterwards each stride visibly short- ened ''the intermediate space, and, barring accident, I might expect soon to range alongside. Still my steed would keep his confounded snout in the air ; every stra- tagem and effort I knew of was employed, yet I could not bring his head down to its proper place. Not more than seventy yards now intervened, and I had balanced my spear at the proper grip that I might the better be prepared for immediate action, when Goldfinder mis- placed his foot and threw me forward on his withers. Would that I could have been striding my own tried and gallant little horse ! If Richard offered his kingdom for a nag, I believe I would have given my commission, which, to me, was equally valuable. Although I had lost several lengths by the stumble, I was soon back in my saddle, and dashing along at the same break-neck pace Whenever I could spare my eyes from my horse I fixed them on the boar. He was still running fresh and apparently unfagged, an occasional grunt of defi- ance from him striking upon my ear, sounding as if my foe war. throwing back a challenge. Suddenly the quarry's stride became contracted, and, with his feet well under him, he made a splendid leap over something — what it was, I could not see. J All Round the World. P CHAPTER IX. A SHARP BURST. AS it is a current saying that "whatever a hog can get over, a horse will have no difficulty in tlyuig, any idea of shirking the leap never entered my head. Getting my mount in hand a little better, as a necessary caution, I ran Goldfinder at it, about the same spot that the boar had taken ; my nag still had his head turned to the skies in search of stars, which he was destmed to make both his rider and self see before many moments. To say that he jumped, or made any alteration m h.s gait would be simply untrue ; at the same pace he was -oing. and as if no such place existed, he dropped mto the dry crack (for such it was, an obstacle of frequent occurrence throughout the arid plains of India), sending me headforemost on the opposite side, and making me more suddenly and less ceremoniously acquainted with mother earth than I ever hope to be again ; however, I received no more serious damage than the loss of some hide off the prominent portions of my physiognomy, and ■Id. 'I Sharp Burst. 83 X. whatever a hog can ) difficulty in Hying," zx entered my head, better, as a necessary it the same spot that rid his head turned to 1 he was destined to efore many moments. any alteration in his he same pace he was isted, he dropped into I obstacle of frequent lins of India), sending side, and making me ously acquainted with be again ; however, : than the loss of some my physiognomy, and with as much rapidity as I could command picked myself up, that I mi-ht be certain of securing my detestable Bucephalus before he had gamed his pins. I had not a moment to spare, for he was al e.uly half out, and but that the reins had got turned over his head when I got the somersault, I might nut have succeeded. So rapidly had the whole -- -'le passed that my friends luul only obtained .,.- ■^•a^l, so a sudden turn or trifling mi.s- hap might yet'givc me a chance of first blood. Without waiting to see what injury the horse had suffered, I sprung upon his back, and, b.irring that he moved a little stiff for the first few strides, an t)utsider could not have remarked any difference. From leading the hunt. I now had the pleasure of w hipping up the ruck— a place little to my satisfaction. Master piggy had. so far, not shown any signs of fatigue, and his steady gait and measured stride were indications of an indomitable spirit and fi-rmed determination of fighting the enemy when- ever they encroached upon his route, or attempted t(^ impede his progress. Barker led McCarthy by some lengths, but a few strides more would range the leading horseman alongside, and he had already poised his spear and taken his horse to the left, so as to deliver the honoured thrust with decision, wher his bright spurs struck the flank of his gallant Arab, who, nobly an- swering the call, put on an additional burst, and the next moment the glittering keen weapon was passed through the hog's flank ; but the thrust was only a flesh- wound. Some irregularity in the pace of the horse, or a sudden swerve in the boar, caused the weapon to slant, and instead of going in between the shoulder-blades and G 2 J I b4 All Round the World. dosccuUn^'. it had Rhnccd off tl.c right shouldor-bUuk- and. i>cnctnitint; through several inches of flesh and hide, had come uut beneath. Tins wound. aUlmu-h a L'hastly one, was not necessarily m.^rtal. and as the suc- cessful sportsman parted with his \veai,.m. the boar charged to the left. and. but for the agility of h.s horse and the promi.tncss of his bridle-hand, would probably have succeeded in effecting damage. Hark-.r was now disarmed, and therefore no longer able to give assist- ance He had had the honour of first s;)ear, but m taking that had become /lors dc combat. McCarthy and self therefore only remained to finish the drama, and the uncertain disposition of my horse rendered my ser- vice, in case of emergency, not much to be trusted. The hog's deviation enabled me to cut off an angle, and if the Captain failed, an opportunity for redeemmg nu'sclf would be at hand. The pace of our cjuarry had become considerably slackened ; the wound and loss of blood were telling, and the inconvenience of ten icet „f a male bamboo .langling from iiis brawny side was not calculated to improve at anytime a doubtful temper. McCarthy raised himself in his stirrups, took a feeler on his horse's mouth, and being assured that all was right and that the gallant nag was ready for h.s share of the work, rushed him alongside and buried his blade deep in the infuriated victim's back ; still, he did not fall but •ifter sta-gcring a few paces, came to bay, steadying him- self to meet to the best advantage the first aggressor "Neck or nothing!" I muttered between my com- pressed lips, and with an unexpressed but fervent desire that Goldfindcr would go straight, I charged at my for- 'Id. ■i^rht shouldcr-bliuK', inches of llcsh and I wound, although a rtal, and as the suc- s \vcai)( '% ^? <^ 4c .<^ 4/ ,#P # fA CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques r T / Sharp Burst. ^ inidablc adversary. The shock of the fall or the severity of the pace had been beneficial, for without a swerve my na<; headed right at him, and as he rose to clear the hot^r with a jump, I struck well and home, but still too {ar in rear to hav ^ an immediate effect ; however, I was pleased with the effort, for both McCarthy and JJarker simultaneously exclaimed. "Well tlone !" The hog now squatted on his hams, turning his wicked small eyes, darting rays of hate, at his pursuers ; once he turned round, and, with an angry grunt, ground into shreds the tough spear handle which still adhered to him. McCarthy, however, was ready to go at him again ; a second time he reined his steed to the struggle, the boar staggered forward to meet him, but this last effort only hurried the execution of the death-warrant, for the skilfully-handled blade took the foe in front of the shoulder, and passing downwards pierced the heart. As our victim turned over on his flank, the death-halloo was sounded with all the energy that our united lungs could command, and nu- merous were the congratulations we exchanged on the successful termination of so hard-fought a battle. Our horses had all suffered from the severity of the pace, and with one accord we dismounted to slacken girths and turn their heads to the wind, the better to enable them to enjoy any passing draught of air. On examining Goldfinder I found that his escapade in the ravine had not otherwise injured him than depriving him of some hair. The entire run from start to finish was now descanted on, and Barker received due praise for the honour lie had earned in drawing first blood, or otherwise taking first spear. I could not forbear during I: il Si i I I 86 All Round the World. this interval of relaxation from havincf a cut u. McCarthy for the confounded brute he had lent nie, adding that it was a mercy he hadn't broken my neck ; in fact, I felt a little sore at his treatment, for assuredly I had never straddled such a dangerous, headstrong devil ; but the gallant Captain soon explained all, and that to my satisfaction. He had had the horse in his stable for some months, and when he first procured him his con- duct was similar to his performance of this day, but find- ing he had a bold and determined rider on his back, had gradually succumbed, and hatl performed on many late occasions most satisfactorily. The groom had, moreover, forgotten to put a ring on one of the reins ; and although Goldfinder's owner had noticed this, he had jjreferred not acquainting me with this apparently trifling piece of carelessness, fearing it would worry and annoy me, thereby taking much of my interest from the sport. The motley crew of beaters at length came up, and numerous and various were their comments upon our success. One of the shikarees assured us that a larger and older boar had broken cover ; but that after going a short way into the open, he became alarmed and returned, charging through their scattered ranks, to the dismay and trepidation of the sable crowd. As soon as our horses were refreshed, and the necessary instructions given for the transportation of our game to camp, we started on our return, deeming that our faithful steeds had worked enough for one day, and, as we had no remounts out, we would defer further execution till the morrow. Indian scenery, with its too-frequently scorched t r s o e P \ TcCarthy ling t)iat 11 fact, I ly I had evil ; but lat to my stable for his con- but find- back, had nany late moreover, ;ins ; and i, he had :ly trifling nd annoy le sport, e up, and upon our t a larger fter going •mcd and ks, to the Ls soon as istructions camp, we ful steeds 2 had no on till the scorched A Sharp Burst. 87 appearance, still has a fascination. The grass-covered plains, the broken ground, the magnificent giant trees, the solitary watercourses, always embanked with nume- rous flowering shrubs, together form a pleasant land- scape ; and although the sun may be oppressive and overpowering in its rays, its brightness still adds an essential without which the view of the most favoured portions of the globe would look sombre, gloomy, and depressing. \ w^mmmtmmmi^mm i 88 All Round the World. CHAPTER X. THE STORM. THE day was not far advanced when we reached our temporary forest home, lightliearted, joyous and thankful for the excellence of our run and the success of its termination. The fresh air had dissipated the fumes of our last evening's potations much more eff-^ctually and rapidly than any specific in the shape of draughts or correctives. Steer was still en deshabille, and in far from an amiable frame of mind at not having witnessed what my friends concurred in calling the fastest and best run of the season. While we were fresh and hungry, anxious for some tiffin, he was fretful and peevish at having been left behind, to toss restlessly on his couch, without the benefit of the fresh air of morning and an opportunity of working off the effects of his nocturnal excesses. Tiffin was lapidly served and dis- posed of, and each betook himself to his favourite book and cigar to while away the remainder of the day. I have previously stated that we were under canvas in a \ '' f ,vhcn \vc reached itlicarted, joyous nir run cind the lir had dissipated tions much more ;ific in the shape still en deshabille, hid at not having calHng the fastest ,vc were fresh and fretful and peevish restlessly on his ih air of morning the effects of his ly served and dis- his favourite book ier of the day. I under canvas in a M f The Stonii. H beautiful grove, but the nature and lay of the ground requires fuller description, that after-events may be more easily understood. The ground on which we were encamped was level and smooth, covered with a close bottom of short grass, the result of the beneficial sh.ide of the mammoth trees ; fifty yards on the left there began a gradual ascent, covered with brush and inter- spersed with broken rock, gradually becoming more rough as the hill ascended, and ultimately terminating in a rocky bluff, fantastic and irregular in shapt, the un- doubted retreat of many a skulking jackal and h)'ena as well as of innumerable reptiles. McCarthy, as I heard afterwards, had objected to taking '\{) his residence so near to a probable ambush, but the vicinity of water and the wishes of the attendants had combined to gain his consent. The afternoon turned out hot and sultry, the morning breeze subsiding into a calm ; within doors, even with an attendant fanning you, but a limited amount of comfort could be enjoyed. We had expected that my companions would have arrived ere this, and, but that wc wished to be on hand to welcome them, our pajamas * would have been donned, and a siesta attempted. How- ever, at two o'clock, a chattering among the attendants proclaimed the advent of strangers ; and Beamish, Peel, and Strangeways hove in sight. We were now a jolly party, seven in all, and while the servants were pitching new' habitations their masters were pitching into the viands. A meeting such as this, in the greenwood glade or on the swelling prairie, has always its fascination ; * .\ lii-ht suit of llanncl, tjenurally bicpt in. f *■ yo All Round the World. tlic nmlKr fmrn the haunts of ci>iintr>iiu:ii the more warm you feci towanls then if chance shouKl hrini; yon in contact, ^'ou pass a n.erc acquaintance uilli a notl of reco-iiitii>n in Rej,'ent Street, l)\il if you should en- counter him on the slopes (.f the K.nky Mountains or in the silent forests of the North West, >-ou would haii his appearance with open arms. There is nothing; more lively and tjay than the camp of the soldier or si)ortsman in troi)ical India ; the hordes of attendants, of all classes, castes, sexes, and atjes, all cnf,^'\'.;ed in some occupation or anotlier, for the Jlindoo, unlike his h'.uropean brother, .strictly confines himself to one line of work, out of which he will not step unless absolute compulsion is used. Hence, while in other coun- tries one or two attendants are .ill that is required, here it takes a dozen, more or les.s. Your i,n()om would feel himself insulted if asked to look after your do^'s, and your body-servant would never survive being sent to carry water. If \'ou smoke a hookah, a boy is necessar\- to look after it and keep it in order. That which is no person's special business is soon nei,dected, wiiile if you liave a particular ta.sk allotteil to each, they will !:;ene- rally l''.iithfully attend to it. Ai^ain, around an i^uropean's cncam[Mnent are numerous animals, such as horses, dogs, cattle, goats and .sheep, besides pets in variety sufficient to stock a menagerie. However, tlie whole makes an cfifective i)icture, relieved and improved by vhe snow- white graceful garments of the natives. ^Moreover, they are a handsome race — perhaps a little effeminate in features, but their figures arc invariably upright and well- proportioned, with a truly stately carriage. Dinner had 1 ■■»». ,im:ii the more loiild hriii^ you nco with a iiotl you should eii- )• Mountains or )-ou would hail ' than the camp idia ; the hordes es, and atjcs, all for the ] lindoo, ifines himself to not step unless le in other coun- is r(,'i[uired, lu:re room would feel )-our do;^s, and c bein;4 sent to boy is necessar\' riiat which is no ted, while if you , they will gene- ikI an i^uropean's 1 as horses, dogs, variety sufficient whole makes an d by the snow- Moreover, they tie effeminate in upright and well- ige. Dinner had \ n 1 he Storm. 91 been disposed of witli the setting' siiii, and \\c all, with one accord, had seated ourselves outside our dinin;.;-tc nt. Days '^nwc by ami distant friends formed the principal topic of conversation, for we were unusually ([uiet, the heat having' become oppressive in tlie extrenie, and elec- tricity surchar^^cd tlie atmosphere. An unnatural and pi)rtentous stillness pervailed the scene, onI>' occasionally broken by the shrill, stran<,'e cry of a description of lizard, the cert;-.'..! foreboder of rain. McCarthy had 1. it us but a few moments when he returned, with the in- formation that the barometer had fallen, and if not much mistaken we were destineil to see an uncomfortable nJMlit ; a hint like this from an old staijer, was -"t to be despised, and soon a crowd of half-aslcep and wholly unwillini,^ natives were summoned to dig L,aittLrs, i)ut up storm-roi)es and case the tent-poles, the further to •guarantee the safety of our fragile dwellings in case we should be visited by a tornado. In the course of my experience I have never found anything more abomi- nable, and nmny of our gallant soldiers doubtlessly think likewise, than being ruthlessly awakened from your peaceful slumbers by a wet tent flapping about your ears, having to grope youf way fre)m underneatli the ruins, and, perhaps, standing in a .state of semi-nudity, exposed to the sweeping blast and penetrating rain. Well was it that McCarthy had given us the hint, for within an hour the storm was upon us, giving no further warnli.g than a deep muttering sound caused by its rapid approach. Dry leaves, straw and all light substances, were caught up and wheeled into the air, with a quick spiral motion, y-i All Roumi th: World. as if by the action nf iiinimicniblc little whirlwiiuls, .'iltlioiiLjli as yet not a bnatli of air is stirring,' aroimil us ; (lark, black, iiiiiK'tietrable clouds rise over the tree- tops with a rapiility tli.it shows the power of the pro- pelling; wind, ami the faint li^dit einittcil by the stars is sutlileiily shrouded in total darkness : a sudden (lash of liviil li;4htnin^r illuminates the luavens with a i^hastly talari', its dazzling brilliancy causini; all to close their eyes ; a noise as of a thousand siej^e-^uns rapidly lol- lows, making the earth tremble with fear at the super- lative voice of the anijry thunder. No si^nial from peak of man-of-war could have been more rapiilly answered, for ere the echoes had ilied away, the rain descended, with a violence and body little less than that of a cataract, while the wind tore round, indicative of a force irresistible. The trees t^roaned anil lashed the air, rub- bing their j^i^antic limbs tt);^rether, antl evincintj; a strontj inclination to pro.stratc themselves before the power of the Omnipotent. The din, the noise and tumult, caused by the breaking; branches and fallin;^ trees, combined with the appalling; thunder a, id fallint; torrent, made a most impressive, ^rand, and awful scene. What man who is a witness to such terrific grandeur, can fail to be im- pressed, and more firmly believe in the omnipotence and overpowering strength of the Creator.' How much better would it bo for all of us if we would think, and cease less soon to forget the beneficial impressions pro- duced on such occasions ! Again and again the gale, with increased power, surges over the surface of the earth, and in each repeated effort increases in its vio- lence till it appears impossible that aught can resist its ittlc whirlwinds, slirriiij^ armiiul ic over the trcc- )wc'r (if the pru- I l)y llic stars is siiiUlcn flash of with a s^hastly II ti) close tlieir ^'uns rapidly fol- .•ar at the siiper- si_L,Mial from peak a[)iilly answered, rain descendetl, tiian that of a icativc of a force lied the air, riib- jvincii\ij[ a stront; >re the [)ower of d lunuilt, caused trees, combined torrent, made a What man who an fail to be iin- omnipotence and •? How much would think, and impressions pro- 1 again the gale, 2 surface of the rcases in its vio- rht can resist its 77/1- S/orfn. 93 influcnco. Still our tents remain standinpr, but won- lirously changeil in shape — now bellying out on one side as if they wouh.l burst, at the next moment contracting, causing the occupants to be in constant dread of a collapse. Nevertheless, the scene is not without a certain amount of satisf.iction, and im[)arts the same feelings that the rage of the ocean arouses in a brave heart — an api)rcciati — brii^dit, cool ad made the pi Hi;. As the IcCarthy, who hat \vc should : if \vc spread itill be within me time afford e forced afoot it beiii<; seen, e were detailed f j;ro tern., he am the number rreiice of habi- e was made. Zarth)', Barker ;wavs, Beamish myself at my elow where the low nT" and the nkiny t'.iat the ;ross the open ;ood chanc -■ of nee slipped by, tried to detect : trifling movc- is it was some irowlcr. Ajjain or the monijnt the f.asc alarm distant adviMice >• A Vctc}'a7i Boar. 97 of the beaters, was now borne upon the breeze ; first, only an occasional shout of some more powerful and energetic member of the dusky crew, but at length the noise of all was distinctly heard, like the babbling of a distant pack. As I have the heart to love all kinds of field sports, such a scene as the present was most enjoyable ; for although none of the larger game were in si-ht, but few moment.s elapsed without crowds of the feathered denizens of the forest being disturbed and compelled to take wing from their shady retreats. The peacock, grand in size and gorgeous in plumage ; the jungle fowl, doubtless the ori- ginal of our domestic poultry, yet the wildest and most difficult of approach of all small game ; the crow pheasant (a member of the cuckoo family), and numerous others, whiz past, all offering tempting shots, but with nothing but a hog spear they might almost roost upon my horse's mane with impunity. The secind cheroot had been consumed, and impatience began to manifest itself, when a shout from Barker roused me from my lethargy. " Look out! look below there!" And look out I did. My position was well selected, for I could command a good view without being much exposed ; I turned my gaze upwards towards the direction from whence the beaters were advancing, still nothing showed. I was just about to mutter, " What abominable luck ! just as usual," and so on, when the sudden pricking of my horse's ears, and a certain nervousness of his manner, caused me to look to the right, and there, stealing away like a fo.x from cover, was the largest and most formidable boar I had ever yet seen. I was on the point of shouting the view hallo, but for fear that he had not got far enough, and might H L 98 All Ror.nd the World. be prompted, if then disturbed, to make a retrograde movement. I kept silent. As soon as I dared, without fear of alarnun- my antagonist, I jumped to the ground und with the rapidity of a groom, took up a coup e ot holes in my girths, for well I knew they must be slack from the length of time that had elapsed since the sad- dlin<- had taken place, and more than extra care was wanted to cope successfully with a griz/.ly savage ot such formidable dimensions. With ner\ous hold I closed my knees as I re-seated myself, and with comparatively slack rein -ave head to my clever little horse, who soon settled down to a steady three-quarter gallop. " Now, boys, I said to myself, "it will take a good man to deprive me of first blood." There was no fear now of the quarry returning, so I gave vent to my overstrung feelings with a joyous "tally ho." O, McCarthy! thou prince of sportsmen! few have ever been seen like thee before o'- since. Thy eye was sharp as the hawk's, thy car quick as the kangaroo's ! That one shout was sufncient to give him warning, and before I had got two hundred yards from my destined prey, I was aware that he was thundering after me. I had no longer the whole per- formance to m>-self-a false step, a heavy stumble or perchance a fall, would give the gallant Captain a fair show for first blood, but still he should not have it if bold riding and willingness to dare aught would bestow it upon me ^The ground was admirable, smooth and elastic ; a few strides more would bring me alongside. Hold up, my gallant little horse, serve mc well this time, and you shall have the first place in my affections ever after. Closer and closer I approach, with the reins well and firm l" \ *f*^ r 2 a rctro^aade dared, without to the ground, up a couple of must bo slack 1 since the sad- extra care was r savage of such old I closed my iparatively slack vho soon settled "Now, boys," man to deprive 3W of the quarry ncr feelings with thou prince of like thee before liawk's, thy ear lut was sufficient got two hundred vare that he was r the whole per- L^avy stumble, or it Captain a fair lot have it if bold Id bestow it upon Doth and elastic ; gsidc. Hold up, his time, and you ictions ever after, reins well and firm d SB i A Vetera )i Boar. 99 in ni)' bridle-hand ; when I lift my steed as to a jump, drawing the claret at the same moment with my per- suaders, and as I do so, with a well-directeil thrust I bury the laurel-Ieaf-shapcd sjiear-head deep in the brawny shoulder of the patriot boar, and ere he could revenge the insult, I was out of reach of his formidable tusks. I cnukl have shouted— I believe I did. I had taken the spear of honour in the face of the acknowledged best hog-sticker in the Presidency. I've liad various streaks of good luck in my life, with various joyous sen.sations, among wliich I may reckon the feelings of satisfaction each time that I saw my promotion in the " Gazette ;" the feelings of internal pride when I first donned my uniform ; my lirst succe.ssful essay on the racecourse ; but all fell far short of my satisfaction at this moment : ami as I wheeled round with the intention of administering the coup df grace, I felt little ambition to dispute with McCarthy the honour of terminating the drama. The boar, as 1 struck him, charged to the left, but the agility of my horse had prevented this mancL'Uvre from being effective. Being thus foiled in his intent, Alaster Piggy continued his cour.se almost at right angles to that which he had previously pursued, and thus afforded my friend a better opportunity of coming in early to join in the iiicla: In hog-lumtitig I have invariably found that if the quarry change the direction of his flight from compulsi(jn or an ac(|uaintance with steel, he afterwards continues for some distance his new course. The Captain was now many strides nearer than myself, but the excitement of the run had put my nag upon his mettle, and as I directed him again to his work, his ardour and spirits knew no bounds, for with each II 2 stride he bore so upon his bit as almost to pull me out of the saddle ; h.nvever. there was little need for any further assistance, for ^IcCarthy, ranging alongside, struck strong and true, and though the hog continued about fifty paces farther, the blood streaming from his mouth, he gradually relaxed his pace, and, stumbling over an irregularity in the ground, fell to rise no more. On returning to the cover, we found that Barker was busily employed about half a mile off, and, before we could join him, had numbered another of the tusked gentry with the " have beens." Our horses were still fresh, and we were anxious for more work ; nor were we long disappointed, for a few minutes after a " sounder " broke cover, under the leader- ship of a gaunt flat-sided old lady. The young ones were scarcely half-grown, so that their worthy mamma became the only object of attention, and a spirited race took place. The difference of weight was in my favour, if not the speed of our nags, for by the time I had drawn first blood, after a sharp burst of three quarters of a mile, I led the gallant Captain by ten lengths. Barker also had cut in and brought up the rear a good third, and to him fell the honour of dealing the death-blow. This second essay had blown both horses and riders, and as we dismounted and slackened girths, we agreed over our cigars that enough is as good as a feast ; so that when the beaters joined us, and had received the necessary in- structions for the finding of the different victims, we started for home in the best possible spirits at the result of our forenoon's performances. We reached our jungle encampment glittering in the sun, for the luminary was now high in the heavens, and n .1 pull me oat of for any further , struck strong out fifty paces li, he gradually \n irregularity ^turning to the nployed about join him, had v'ith the " have c were anxious intcd, for a few ider the Icader- oung ones were lamma became itcd race took ly favour, if not had drawn first 2rs of a mile, I Barker also had ird, and to him V. This second ers, and as we igrecd over our t ; so that when he necessary in- cut victims, we rits at the result glittering in the ;he heavens, and A P'ctcran J) oar. lOI ■ 5i the reflected luat from the warmed earth was already becoming oppressive ; our adventures of tiie morning had whcllcd our afjpetites, and a substantial tiffin, washed down with an abundance of Ailsop's pale ale, soon satisfied the inward man , the cool spring near which we were situated having previously afforded each a luxurious bath. The desire to know the success of the rest of the party prevented us doubtless!)' from taking a siesta ; ^hey did not come, and one by one we dropped off to our respective tlormitories to enjoy our otiiiin ; probably sine digiiitixtc. Well it was we did so, for neither Peel nor the others turned up till the long shadows of the evening ])ro- claimed a termination of day. In his hurry to get divested of his equipments, Peel fastened his jrointens, coupled togrther, to an unused tent-peg some fifty paces off, till his Ciog-coolie returned (who was temporarily absent), that he might the belter join in discussing the day's work. The other trio had numerically been more successful than ourselves, but all that they had killed were sru,!!, while a large boar, which from their description must iiave been as big as a jackass, made good his escape. Our gunner had also a heavy bag, and visions oi fricassee d^wCi " spatch- cock " floated before our imaginations for the morrow's breakfast. Scarcely time for a change of raiment had elapsed when dinner was announced, and what our service and table lacked in equipments, was amply made up in the abundance and variety of dishes. Again and again the social bottle i)assed round the table, and as we were to separate on the morrow for different sections of the country, healths, good wishes, and future meetings were drunk ; but hark ! what is that unearthly shout .' What 102 All Round the World. on earth is that row? Our native atlLiulants c', and the probability was if the foe showed himself that this day would terminate his career ; however, nothing must be done rashly, for numerous arc the fatal accidents that have resulted in following this sport. A tiger, however severely wounded, and on the verge of death, from his enormous strength and activity can, with one blow, finish any man's earthly career. A few years ago a work was published, written by Lieutenant Rice, of the Indian Army, who for a long period was the most successful tiger-.slayer in that distant land ; and he, nearly in every instance, followed the sport alone, as far as his own countrymen were concerned, only using a few of the natives as beaters, and success always attended him. Those desirous of information upon this dangerous de- scription of shouting would do well to read his work, L [o8 All Round the Wcrld. and learn how one cool and determined person obtains success. Another peculiarity which \a worthy of noting in reference to this subject is that smooth-bore ^wws, loaded with ball arc frecjuently used. This. i)robably, can best be accounted for from the denseness of the cover in which the haunts of the prey are found, and the necessary short range at which your shots are fired. After a lengthened consultation with the principals of the assembled natives, it was decided that a neighbour- ing nullah was the probable lair, and, as the distance to this retreat was little over half a mile, the services of our horses were dispensed with. Arriving at the ground, the situation, as far as human judgment could form an opinion, appeared just suited to form a wel- come shelter ; precipitous banks, overgrown \s ith dense, tangled brush, and covered with innumerable giant boulders, formed many a sheltered nook and cranny, well screened from the oppressive rays of the veiiieal sun. This nullah, a couple of years before, had been the selected retreat of one of these tyrants. He had paid the penalty of his crimes, and up to the present tme the ravine had been free from these scourges, but it was not unlikely that his successor, who had adopted the .same nefarious line of business, had taken poss ,ssion of the defunct tiger's premises. Our beaters did their work manfully, and, in spite of briars and other obstacles, scoured thoroughly the whole locale, but not a symptom of the presence of our foe could be found, so that after an hour's f'.uitless labour, disappointed in the results, we had to desist. Again a council of war was held, and a second similar retreat in the vicinity was i \ T i Id. iiL'd person obtains s worthy of noting smooth-bore guns 1. This, i)robably, ', dcnscncss of the •cy are found, and ur shots are fired. th the principals of that a neiglibour- id, as tlie distance mile, the services . Arriving at the an judgment could ted to form a wei- irgrown w ith dense, innumerable giant nook and cranny, rays of the veiiival s before, had been e tyrants. He had up to the present these scourges, but r, ^\•ho had adopted lad taken poss jssion ar beaters did their I and other obstacles, but not a symptom be found, so that disappointed in the council of war was in the vicinity was The Search for the Murderer. 109 pronounced as the most probable holding-place ; but the result was a blank. The oppressive heat, the exertion of walking, and possibly the desire for breakfast, induced a unaniinous decision for a temporary cessation of hos- tilities, on the express stipulation that all should join in making a further essay in the afternoon. In the meantime natives were despatched a few -niles round the neighbour- hood to glean what information could be obtained. Breakfast had been disposed of, and scarcel>' had wc smoked our first cheroot sufficiently low to deserve the appellation of stump, when a courier arrived with the news that he had discovered in the sand surrounding a spring, three or four miles off, undoubted footprints. Boot^'and saddle were now proclaimed, and immediately afterwards, all mounted, were again en route to the ex- pected rencontre. With what anxiety we all dismounted and inspected the tell-tale tracks ! The signs were un- mistakable and fresh, while the shikarees, who arc skilled in such indications, pronounced that they had been made the previous night ; doubtlessly the animal had washed down his feast of dog-meat at this pool before laying up for the day. On more closely examining the ground, old signs were also found so numerous that little doubt remained in our minds that thir, was a chosen resort after midnight excursions, and further convinced us that the brute was not far distant, for generally carnivora select a retreat within a short distance of wat-;r, and invariably slake their thirst at the same place. Several pieces of dense thicket were in the vicinity, all of which were carefully searched, but still without results, i r-i I lO All Round the World. and despair had almost a^ain taken possession of us when a native was seen swini^in;^ his pu,L,^L,n-ee 'the eloth which tliey tie round their heads) in the air, and violent^'.y n-csticulatiii'^^ from a nei_L;hbourinc,' heii^ht. This cxliibi- tion acted hke a tahsman, for all well knew that it indi- cated t^ood news, and those who had commenced to hv^ and predict failure now sharpeneil up their pace, and vied with their comrades in obtaiuin_L( the news. If wc had been unsuccessful in viewin;^ the tMnie, we found that we had unkennelled it, for the tii^er, alarmed by the approach of so many, ar.d the noise made by the beaters, had thought proper to steal off, but, fortunately, had been viewed by this field-telegrapher, who had marked him down into a ravine not over half a mile from our present position. With .strong hopes of at last gratifying our revenge, we luuTicd forward, and ere we arrived at the designated place, a second native confirmed the statement of the first, for he had not only seen the tiger into the nullah, but even pointed out his track on a bare i)iece of sandy soil. The hvcality was found to be admirably suited for our purpose, so that, if the foe had not passed on, we felt conv.iiced that he could not a second time escape our vigilance. INIcCartliy disposed each with the discretion of an old hand, and, as the thicket did not cover more than an acre, all were within hailing distance in case of a view hallo or accident. The preconcerted signal having been given, the beaters, with heart and soul, went to their work, and amid shouts and threats of vengeance, steadily advanced towards the position of the guns. On, on they came, and the excitement of all was intense. Every ■■'■9 I I nil M4 i or.scssion r>f us f£freo 'the cloth ir, and violently . This cxliibi- j\v tliat it iiuH- iniLnccd to lag their pace, and le news. If we ^-lmc, we found alarmed by the ■ by the beaters, ortunately, had 'ho had marked L mile from our it last Ljratifying rte arrived at the ed the statement e tiger into the 1 a bare piece of J be admirably id not passed on, :ond time escape ith the discretion : cover more than in case of a view .:jnal having been 1, went to their ngcance, steadily _■ guns. On, on IS intense. Every T/ic Search for the Murderer. til muscle and nerve was strung to the utmost tension. A few moments more would proclaim the result ; each man stood wi.Ii his double-barrel, full cock, ready to send a leaden messenger at the hateful canicide. lUit half of the cover now remained, still nciught had been seen, when a shot announcetl that something was afoot. The oft- repeated echoes had scarcely ceased reverberating wln'fi a second fire, from a different quarter, proclaimed that more tlian one e\e had seen the quarry ; and that the villain was a skulking coward — by far the most dangerous description — who knew too much to lea\e the friendly shelter. Again and again the shouts and derisive jecr- ings of the sable attendants rose as they forced their way forward ; yet, still no further chance of a shot was afforded. So far only those that had fired knew what it was at, and the less fortunate were blaming their want of luck. However, a change soon came jver the scc-ne, and lively work followed the prolonged inaction. At a point covereil by three guns, forth rushed a full-grown panther. Four shots turned him over ere he had gone ten paces, but soon he was up, and, nothing daunted, continued his forward course ; ten strides farther would bring him upon Steer, who only now had one loaded barrel. His gun was pitched forward, and as his tube vomited forth its contents, a cross shot from Barker struck the foe in the loins, ard he rolled over to rise no more. '1 his fusilade had brought the whole of our party together, when, to the surprise of all, Strangeways announced that he had fired at a tiger, and not at the defunct. This put a new phase upon the play, and the temporarily desi rted posts were L 112 All Round the World. again manned, the beaters ordered to recommence from the lailher end, and afresh scour the thicket with renewed energy and racket. 15ut all was no avail ; the striped beauty had taken advantage of the opportunity and escaped, possibly to fall at some future date before another's rifle. If ' It:. The Tigers Death. 1 1 :commcnco from ket with renewed /ail ; the striped opportunity and ure date before CHAPTl'. R XI IT. \ THE tiger's death. "^"p 1 1 ERE are no people on the face of the earth so i cajjable of bearing fatigue as the lower caste natives of India ; no day appears too long, no journey too far for their agile frames, and the velocity with which they advance is truly surprising; frc(]uently have I ridden nine or ten miles within the hour, yet, when I halted, my faithful syce was not far distant. Now, what do you think they live on, to render them capable of enduring, without fatigue, such great exertions ? Beef, you. might imagine, or some other equally strong food ; no ! nothing but vegetable diet, except in rare cases. As the beaters entered the cover, one would have thought that they were fresh men, instead of being lately so constantl)' worked, so great was their energy and desire to see the marauder slain, and no doubt the possibility of having a chance of singeing their inveterate enemy's whiske.s,* acted as no mean stimulant. • Immcdintfly on the dcith of .a li.!.;cr the nr.tivcs singe his whiskers, be- lievini; it to be the v'rcatest insult they can (.tier tlieir bloodthirsty foe. I I 114 All Round the World. I particularly observed from the first one dusky, hand- some ix'on, who acted as an accepted chief among his sable associates, and from appearance and b.-aring was well qualified to fill so important a post. I had noticed him alwaj-H the first to enter cover, and if a symptom of reluctance or fear showed itself among the others, he, in few words, ridiculed and laughed them out of their timidity. All the natives carried some weapon, many matchlocks,* but in his powerful hand he held a kecn- bladed tuhvar.f which, doubtless, he could handle with eff"ect. The crew of beaters, as they pushed on, continued to shout incessantly. Their previous exertions, even under a vertical sun, had not impaired their vi»i. Forward, forward they advance, while my sporting companions remain mute as death — nervously each clasps his trusty weapon ; twice a breaking branch or unexpected sound caused a looked-for advent of game. Not fifty yards now separate the representatives of the two nationalities, and the quarry has not .shown itself; even the rustling of the beaters' steps can be distinctly heard, when, stealthily, slowly, crouching, with belly almost to the ground, and step as silent as that of a flitting phantom, advances from the brush the disturber of our previous evening's peace, his eyes livid with hate and fury ; but in a moment he appears to comprehend the dangers of his situation, for, halting momentarily, he turned to regain * Matchlocks arc lonR-liarrcllcd awkward ^uns, fired by means of a li.L;lilcd fuse, wliich is pushed into a pan conlaininf priming, after the ujanner of flint guns. t Tulwar, a very keen-edged scimitar-shaped blade, in the use of which some of the natives are great proficients. ic dusky, hand- :hicf among his .nd bjaring was I bad noticed 1 if a symptom 5 the others, he, cm out of their weapon, many he lield a keen- Lild handle with Dn, continued to ions, even under T'/w. Forward, ing companions clasps his trusty [expected sound Not fifty yards :wo nationalities, :ven the rustling y heard, when, y almost to the flitting phantom, of our previous :c and fury ; but ;hc dangers of his turned to regain (1 by iiK'ans of a lij^hted ^, aflcr the iiianncr of c, in the ubc of which T/ic Tigers Death. 115 the friendly cover ; but the pause liad been sufficient to afford time for aim — three guns speak almost together, a id with deeivmuttered gnjwl as he retires, two rugged bullets pierce his brilliantly-coloured coat ; mischief now is in the wind, for, after blood has been drawn, the most adventurous and ha/arilous had better look wc:ll to their future proceedings.* "ICxpcrience informed us that our swarthy attendants were now in imminent danger; though he would not face the sahibs' t bullets, the dark- skinned natives would stand less ceremonious treatment. Above the ordinary S(;unds made by the advancing peons rises a shout of extraordinary shrillness, and from my position numerous white -turbaned, white- clothed figures are seen to ascend the scattered sap- lings, while a wail of anguish issues from their vicinity. This indication is plain, and difference of language fails to prevent a full comprehension that some tragedy is being enacted. I'^ach sportsman rushes from his post to the scene of discord, determined to do all, to brave aught, and bring a.ssistance to whoever has been seized by the savage Ijrute ; but all were too late, for the marauder, who had seized the intrepid fellow whom 1 had previousl)' mentioned, hid been satisfied to give him but one blow with his powerful j)aw, and a sample of hi;:- teeth on the shoulder, afterwards dropping his victim and continuing his retreat.:}: We found poor Nana * Tiic majority of lij;i'r-., whon huiilod, will, if possible, steal off, but once they are wounded, they will attack iiuiiscrimiiuitely man or beast that has the misfortune to come iii tlieir way. t The correct meaniu;; of this word is master, but the natives make general use of it in speaking of Europeans. + Such an occurrence as this is extremely common, and the number of iiiaimed iiunters to bo met who have received their wounds in similar ren- I 2 I I Tf ii6 All Round the World. Aboul dreadfully shaken and badly lacerated, but his heart and presence of mind had not left him ; and as we bent over his prcstrate fif;ure examiniii;^ and direct- ing so as to afford assistance to the noble fellow, with glistening eyes and smiling countenance he rejoicingly articulated that he had not succumbed without testing the keenness of his tulwar across the muscular forearm of his assailant. His weapon, which he still retained in his nervous grasp, proved his assertion, for a crimson stain was on its bright blade. Having given orders to have Nana conveyed out of further danger, wc re-esta- blished our cordon of beaters, and having been assured by our horse-coolies who remained between this cover and retreat that he had not left, with no lack of former clan and determination we resumed our work. Our men had not proceeded over thirty paces, after turning to the right-about, when an angry growl sent them to tree, and many an excited voice proclaimed that the game was in sight, and determined to retreat no farther. Knowing our people to be safe, we now collected and advanced in mass, McCarthy and Barker forming the centre and front. Still we could see nothing ; only an occasional hissing growl admonished us that we were in a dangerous precinct. The peons, who had now in many instances descended and joined our company, tried to point the foe's situation out, but our ^.uropcan eyes,* less keen, failed to sec him. At length, after contres is truly smprising. Vet when once tliese people imbibe a taste fnr field sports, no number of accidents, but only death, will cause them to relinquish the pursuit. * The keenness of the vision of the natives is truly surprising, and often li.ive 1 had game pointed out which every exertion failed to make me see. T rid. ■ lacerated, but his >t left him ; and as .niiiiintjj and direct- ; noble fellow, with ance he rejoicingly Dcd without testing c muscular forearm he still retained in tion, for a crimson ing given orders to danger, we re-esta- ing been assured by ■een this cover and lack of former clan ork. thirty paces, aft(,T n angry growl sent J voice proclaimed mined to retreat no .fe, we now collected md Barker forming I see nothing ; only led us that we were s, who had now in ined our company, :, but our 'European 1. At length, after ; people imbibe a taste fnr death, will cause them to truly surprising, and often n failed to make me see. T I 1 ,ii *:_ -1 JV<' i;jK iTO M ■I s = I The Tiger's Death. »I7 moviii},' both to the ri^jht and left, a portion of the animal's tail was plainly discerned, movini^ slowly but rc^nilarly to and fro, a ccrt.iin intlicalion that mischief is brewing. Not more than fifty feel intervened, and two bounds would place him in our midst. Pr-nidence, wliich has pifted me with more than usually sharp vision, at length helped me to distinguish a fawn-coloured patch, traversed by a dark line between the brush and gigantic-leaved grasses, and from its distance fronj the moving extremity of the carcase 1 had little doubt it must be in near proximity with a vital portion. This discovery I conveyed to my companions in a subdued whisper, and as I levelled to fire, I cautioned the others to be on the qui five. Simultaneously with my report the tiger rose rampant on hind limbs, as with the intention of springing ui)on us; but McCarthy and Teel's quick shooting brought him down eciually rapidly and as the marauder struggled upon the blood-stained soil, a few more bullets gave him the coup dc grace.* Each, I believe, drew a long and thankful breath at the result ; at least I know I did, for a tiger in this position, wounded and unable to make his escape, is a foe far from contemptible. On examining the carcase we tound that the plucky fellow whom he had mauled spoke truly, for a deep gash was found over the exterior muscles » Dimensions of an avrragf-siu-d 7'4vr.— Lciij,'tli, including tail, 9 ft. 6 in. ; height at shoulder, 3 ft. 2 in. ; girth round the;,t, 5 ft. 6 in. ; girth of arm, 2 ft. 8 in. ; girth of collar, 3 ft. ; length of tail, 2 ft. 9 in. Many, however, have been killed much larger. I have frequently seen hides ujuvartls of 1 1 ft. The Tianther of India is quite as dangerous as the tiger ; in size he is smaller and lighter in build, but aiipears to be possessed of greater activity, wliile his vitality is proverbial. J_ l! ii8 //// Round the IVorid. of the forearm tliat nw^\ seriously havo lessened his tra- velling' powers. Thus fell the destroyer of I'cel's puintcr. and many were the rejoicing's and con{,'ratulations oyer our success. On our return to camp, while straR^jlinjj behind my companions, ami traversing; an open meadow. I came across a wolf, and as my little Arab was fresh, and would he benefited by a ^jallop, I determinetl to try the feat of riding' Mr. Lupus down. Two hundred yards wa.s the extent of the law he hael. and ere we had K"'»^' a mile, I was alon^'side A few strides more enabled me to send a bullet from my pistol through his value- less hide. This feat 1 have since performed in America, and any person well mounted can do likewise. How- ever, I must say that the wolf of America, particularly the lart^e grey species, is more fleet and enduring than his Asiatic brother, owing, no doubt, to the effects of climate and superiority of size. That night was our last together, and a merry one it was ; the stalwart, giant trees of the tope reverberated with the echoes of old familiar songs ; the happy, reck- less, joyous laugh sounded far and near, and, as is usual on such occasions, it was unanimously sung and doubtlessly recorded without dissi ' ig voice, that all were jolly good fellows. If some travelling stranger should happen to pass this camping-ground, doubtless the dt-'bris of broken bottles, like tombstones, mark departed spirits. Next morning after breakfast wc broke up, never to meet again. Mow sad the words ! As in Mrs. Hemans' ' Graves of a Household,' the majority sleep the calm, still rest of death in different scattered climes ; three fell, iMii' L'ssoncd his tra- >i I'cL'l's puintcr. ratulations over vhiK; str.ifj'^lint^ \ opiii i\ica(li)\v, \r.il> was tVcsli, tcrmiiictl to try Iniiulrod yards re we had j^'mio 5 more enabled rough his vahio- iied in Aiwcrica, likewise. 11 nw- rica, particularly .1 eiuUiring than o the effects of ! a merry one it ipe rcverljeratcd tlie happy, rec]<- lear, and, as is iiously sung and 2 voice, that all ivelling stranger round, doubtless )mbstones, niark ■okc up, never to in Mrs. Hemans' /■ sleep the calm, :limes ; three fell, 'J7tc Tigers Death. «i9 though not with their colour- round tlnir breast, yet under the flag they had sworr to ilefend witli lifi'. My little Arab, if he still lives, carries a stranger, and is reined by one who probably knows not of his former prowess in the hunting-fiekl, for before parting with him he won two races at the cantonment meeting, making your humble servant thish of rupees. Hut whatever prosperity fortune has or may vouchsafe me, never can I forget the [lictiiresipie, hapi)y encam[)ment, or the true sterling friends with whom I hunted in the Todah Valley. iL^ ai ^r i li 120 All Round the World. CHAPTER XIV A FOREST SCENE. THE diversity of climate and scenery in India is very great. Hitherto my sporting had been con- fined to ridable ground, but if my kisul young friends will go with mc, I will attempt to give them some idea of the alluvial portions of the country, where the forest grows so densely that the light of the sun is shut out, and v/herc the fat, slimy soil gives forth vapours noxious to nearly all animals except amphibii. Such are the jungly regions formed by the delta of the Ganges — familiarly known as the Sundcrbunds. I had taken my gun and advanced into the jungle immediately after tiffin, accompanied by two natives, in order to try if we could not furnish our mess with some of the numerous variety of beautiful wi'il fowl that abound in such immense numbers in the various bayous which arc to be found scattered throughout all the low- lying forest lands in the vicinity of large rivers. As it was far from improbable that we miglit come in contact Id. A Forest Scene. 121 ;cncry in India is ;ing had been con- cisul young friends ic them some idea y, where the forest the sun is shut fives forth vapours )t amphibii. Such lelta of the Ganges ds. ;;d into the jungle , by two natives, in >ur mess with some ful wi'i'i fowl that the various bayous ighout all the low- arge rivers. As it d\t come in contact I - with sonic of the ferce nature, I had chosen two of our most faithful attendants, \s\\o had previously proved them- selves trustworthy when accident had placed me in a position of imminent danger. Of all the people I have met in different portions of the globe, there are none, in my opinion, for perfection of figure who equal the Bengale.se— tall, slim, with good muscular development and handsome faces, the artist might find subjects for his pencil in this Eastern continent, in every way equal to the most approved torsos of Italy. Often have I watched the native women, with their scant drapery gracefully falling from one shoulder, and their lotas or water-jars balanced on their heads, going or returning from the tanks, their backs, arms, and limbs emphatically showing that nature had used her choicest moulds in their construction. Not a breath of air was circulating ; I was suffering from the intense heat, and consequently advanced with slow and exhausted steps. At last we struck a sheet of water, a narrow bayou that penetrated far into the jungle, edged on both sides by a thick growth of man- groves, leaving few spots w here it was possible for a man to gain its brink without an immense amount of exer- tion. Near the head of the lake was an open clear space, on which lay the body of a dead buffalo, who had probably received his death-blow from the unerring bullet of some European, and had wandered away to the forest haunts of his youth to yield up his noble spirit. Although we all stood close to tliii; ponderous carcase, an unusually large niuggar, or alligator, slowly emerged from his watery retreat, and, cither ignorant of 122 All Round the World. our proximity or rci^ardlcss of our presence, aavanccd upon the mountain of carrion, anil c^ •nnienced, willi a rapacity fearfully dis-usting. to satiate his noonday appetite. Around on different sides could be seen his numerous confreres intently watchin^j his movements, but afraid to intrude upon his lordly presence, while vultures and adjutants swarmed on every limb, waiting for their turn to share in the offensive banquet. The solitariness and asperity of the spot, the slut^^nshness and murkiness of the lake, the extreme denseness of the foliage, together with the almost cavernous gloom which such a concurrence of causes produced, were seen in awful contrast with the several varieties of living objects that met the sight on entering this sequestered glade. As such scenes as this arc only occasionally to be enjoyed, and that only by the sportsman, far from the haunts of man, they are doubly impressive, and leave behind them indelible impressions, which up to the latest periods of life are never forgotten. The mental associa- tions excited by the scene before me were anything but pleasing, as we here read in one of Nature's most melan- choly pages the sad lesson of animal selfishness and ferocity. In the rational creature, I fear it is the master- spring of motives, intents, and actions, and exists as strongly as it does in the irrational ; in the latter, it is only the more obvious because it is the less disguised. These reflections passed rapidly through my thoughts as I gazed upon the living things which swarmed in and about the dark water, on whose banks the buffalo had breathed his last. As time elapsed, numerous and varied additions were made to the hungry assembly already L ■1 Forest Scene. 1^3 rosciicc, r.Jvanccd mmcnced, with ;i iitc his noonday ;ould be seen his r his movements, > y presence, wliile rcry Hmb, waiting ve banquet. The e sUiggishness and dcnseness of the ■nous gloom which :ed, were seen in ;s of Uving objects sequestered glade, iccasionally to be ,man, far from the )ressive, and leave ich up to the latest 'he mental associa- were anything but iture's most melan- nal selfishness and ;ar it is the master- ons, and exists as in the latter, it is the less disguised, ough my thoughts ich swarmed in and iks the buffalo had umerous and varied ^ assembly already ' collected, various beasts and birds of pre}-, with reptiles of the most obnoxious and horrible appearance, each hoping for the time when they should be sufficiently strong to usurp the place of honour and keep at a respectful distance the weaker claimants. During all this time the large alligator was tearing off immense pieces of putrid carrion, and stowing them away with as much ease and gusto as a gastronome would the most tempting tit-bits. A spirit of hatred and enmity, or perhaps of tyranny and destruction, prompted me to enter the list of claimants for the spoil, not that I could make use of the booty, but perhaps to exult in the pleasure of destruction so common to man, and like the dog in the manger, refuse the food which I myself could only loathe. Towards the ma- jority of animals I have a strong feeling of kindness, amounting to love, particularly if they be of a timid disposition, but for the bloated snake or .scaly crocodile, the antipathy which is excited can only be appeased by their destruction. Giving way to these sensati'age), unable even to answer a civil question without a display of ill-humour. I once sailed in a troop ship round the Cape of Good Hope. The passage was a long one, and there was more bickering and squabbling than 1 eve- previously experi- enced in a similar length of time. ICven the ladies, of whom we had over a dozen on board, followed the evil cxami)le of the sterner sex, and scarcely were on speak- ing terms with each other when the anchor w as dropped in port. Any excitement, therefore, on board ship that breaks the monotony of a sea-voyage is most accei)table. A day or t\'-o after making the coast of Sumatra and approaching the Straits of Sunda, a shark was seen following in the wake of the troopship. Numerous were the attempts made to capture him, but the scoundrel was too well fed or too dainty to take the most tempting bait. Fowl, turtle, pork, and beef were alternately substituted as lures, but without avail. Doubtless there were so many tit-bits falling from the ship on which Mr. Shark could regale that he did not care to lay hold of any- thing attached to hook or line. The majority on board, witl^the exception of myself, gave up the task as useless. I planned and plotted his capture, for the specimen was of a rare variety ; but long I was without success. There he remained day after day, eithm- close up to the rudder or under either of the ship's quax.ors. The weather was hey Inivo been a have borne llie ndest, and most d snappish under even to answer a umour. the Cape of Good nd there was more previously experi- wen the ladies, of , followed the evil ely were on speak- nchor was dropped d ship that breaks ; aeceptable. ist of Sumatra and a shark was seen p. Numerous were it the scoundrel was most tempting bait, ornately substituted less there were so m which Mr. Shark to lay hold of any- majority on board, 1 the task as useless. )r the specimen was lout success. There )se up to the rudder I. The weather was Catching a Shark. 127 fine, the sea smooth as glass, and every movement of his fins or tail was perfectly apparent to those looking at him from the deck. In rummaging over .s-ime old effects I found gimp and hooks, originally intended for Lough Corrib i)ike. 1 knew the tackle to be strong, and with it I resolved to make one more essay for the capture of our grim attendant. That (.lay I was on duty ; and as our commanding officer, one of the best-liearttd men bn;athing, but at the same time a strict discijjlinarian, always insisted on the officer <.)n duty remaining on deck during dinner, I thought that while all were below and everything quiet, the opportunity should be taken, and that the results would be more probably successful. With a nice little piece of fat pork about the size of a walnut for bait, over went my tackle. The vessel had scarcely steerage way, and slowly I paid off line. The shark was at his accustomed place. lie saw the at- traction, slowly swam to it, carefully surveyed it, and again returned to his post. It was no use. Again and again it was dropped under his nose. He had seen enough, Mid rejected with scorn the imposition. I had thoroughly made up my mind that all chance of success was over, and commenced in consequence throw- ing overboard the remainder of my bait, the first piece of which he took gingerly, the second with more avidity, and the third with considerable energy. Shakspeare's remark, that " increase of appt^ite doth grow with what it feeds on," was evidently being verified. I sent for a fresh supply of pork. Over a dozen morsels had been All Rmini the World. ii8 i w„ .1,0 Airk a.id his timidity bad vanished ; for T;;rip,*tt Acceded tl,.. spia* or their descent iad enlarged to the cireunrf^ence of a feot, the l.,nc '"•t -ri :etrtdt .r.';-: .*ortc„lng it, so that the A-a.n I rcsor ca 10 y Qvcrboard it went, bait alone would ^^^^^^ :^';^^J:^, i ,.a him fast. V Ml' 1 lef emained on the surface, and beat the water hooked. "^;^"; finding this mode of procedure :ant.:^rf-.Uhe-— ^^ Mv tacHe was too light to put a strong cheek on. L'evt I had plenty of line, so determined to , ay m^^ fi,h in the thoronghly orthodox «ay Well, ' 1»"U« intense satisfaction of feeling that but 1 -iccident I should secure my prize. By this tmie u 7^1 was crowded. Amon- the officers were several Sr-;:"A.r;veadvieeh.rcm^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -:r::39a^rrth?^x Aci-, wn>^ brouMit alongside; tor aitei uic 11.1 , my fish %\as t3rou,i b ^^^^^^ ^^^^j rr m\ e;S::inrhl;r" hand, and, as op^r. tunlty presented itself, let drive h,s nnss.le .nh ucU- d. Inid vanished ; for sh of their descent ■ a fcot, the bonne ling it, so that the )verboard it went, nt I had him fast, on finding himself and beat the water mode of procedure I went downwards 5t to sight, and the game was still on. L strong check on. crmined to play my Well, I paid off to )vcrboard. Despair ,' if compelled to put <, and my hoped-for y nick of time— not Lirned, and I had the )ut for some unseen By this time the ; officers were several cmcmbering the pri)- what had previously salmon. At length »r after the run, like The first mate stood land, and, as oppor- lis missile with well- CixtcJiinc; a Shark. 129 directed aim ; but the harpoon was blunt, and glanced off, doing no other injury than instilling fresh energ>- into tile victim. Tlie result of this mishap was that all 111)' labours had to be begun again, and the shark fought this second battle with greater obstinacy than the fust. Again and again I gave and look in line. My foe had been too badly treated when pre\'iously alor ^side to be brought iutn the sauie position without rcMStance. At least ten minutes of this give-and-tak( business must have occurred, when a rope, with a nooh formed by a running bowline knot, was passed down th line. With a little iiiaiuiuvring it was coa.ved over the .shark's head ; l)>- degrees farther b.ackwards, till the dorsal fin was reached, when a (piick jerk closed the slip, and the prey was safe from escajjc. The line was now passed through a block, and a dozen stalwart grenadiers trolled the strug^gling scoundrel aloft, and ultimately dropped him on deck. The cook, ;i black man — all ships' cooks appear to be black — stood by, choi)per in hand. A grin suffused his ebony counte- nance ; pleasure was exijresscd in every fratiire of his face ; his mouth opened from ear to car ; his dusky eyes rolled about with delight ; it was e\ ident to all that he regarded the ])resent opi)orluiiity as one for distinction ; the wrigglings of the shark had scarcely ceased ; forward rushed Sambo to cut off his tail. However "man proposes, God disposes." His foot slipjjed, and he got such a whack from the caudal a[)pendage of thestruggler as, douJjtless, he still remembers well. The daikie was game, however. He made a second attempt, which was successful. ■ ■ : ■ . , K 7T" 130 All Round the World. On opening the shark's stomach, a most extraordinary collection of articles was found-pieces of ^rlass. cl-.tli. a porMon of a book, and several fouls' heads ; the latter MO doul)t. the craniums r>f the unfnrti.nates who had furnished our mcss with curry or spatch-cock. On measurement, this fish was cifiht feet long-a size at- tained by very few of this particular species. The vessel on which this little episode occurred, and 0,1 which I enjo>-ed many happy hours, in a subsequent voya-o a year or two afterwards, disappcarcd-probably foundered. To this day nothin- has ever been heard of her. i! inn Id. iiost extraordinary :s of j^lass, cloth, a heads ; tlie hitter, irtu nates who had spatch-cock. On :t lonf:j — a size at- pcoies. sode occurred, and rs, in a subsequent ippcarcd— probably IS ever been heard Trkkius an AUii^ator, '.>' C H A 1' r !•: R X V I. TRICKING AN AI.I.I f. A TO U. HOW was that alliK^'itor caught? Perhaps my readers as well as the friend who asked me this (juestion would like to know, for he was by odds tin- largest I have ever become on intimate terms with. To my knowledge a more picturesque and productive island than Java does not exist, and although situated close to the equator, it is both healthy and cool. Tlie Dutch are its possessors, and well they control .iiul manage the natives and the productions. The Straits t.i Sunda form the northern boundary of this colon)- ot Holland, and separate it from Sumatra. For ships from the westward of the Cape of Good lIo])e and bound farther to the east these straits are generally selecteil as the route to pass through the Malay Archipelago. I had come from the west : our passage had been tedious and rough, our vessel wanted provisions, water, and repairs, so at the picturesque village of Anjer, in Jav.i, and on the Straits of Sunda, we dropped anchor and remained for some days. K 2 ,^i All Ro'i'td the UWlif. ^ ^ Close to where wc were moored was th. V^;^-^ ^J^ whence ships' crews ..bl.in water, a ,--'" •; ^^^ cmnlyi-v itself into a miniature bay. 1 lus s, . t had i:i'U haunted by an immense alligator, and althon,h innumerable devices had been practised t..;.com^^^^^ his capture, all had turned out unsuccesstul. Scarce a week passed that some depredation was not comn > te by ths brute; one time a child was a v,c un. nex a vvasherwon.an. and so crafty had the v.llam !>--- 1 at it was ahnost impossible for those who fron, nee ss. f,-e.,uented the slrea.n for the purpose of wasluny to escape his formid.ible jaws. ..11 Tk- day previous to n,y arrival another v.ctnu had been addii lo the already n>rnudable list, and tins , UK. viUa.^e was in as ,^reat a slate .,f e.xc.temcnt as a llnuloo luuuTct would be when a man-eating t.^'cr is knovn to have taken up his residence in a neitihbourn,^' '-avme. Having cllled upon the conmKUulant. a splendu specimen of a Dutch naval officer, than whom no bcttc 'ue to be found, after the cu.stomary courtes.es, 1 was ';,,,,,,,! by an invtatiou to his table a pleasure I was ;. backward to avail my.self of. for I had Ion, become di..n,sted with the usual ship's salt rations, and the pros- uec^l of a K'ood feed on fresh meat, and doubtless vege- •ibles were temptations of no ordinary character; n oli^v::. the socLy of a .entleman traveller wlm ad probably buffeted over half the earth could not fad u. assisting time to fly both rapidls and pleasantly. A more genial host I have seldom met. or one better Cuahfied to relate his experiences ; and when the che..o^ and joss stick were placed upon the table the .nUnU s tlu' placo from a small stream This spot had ;it()r, ami althoii'^h led to accomplish •ssful. Scarcely a ;is not committed a victim, next a •iUaiii become that lio from necessity )se of washing to nolher victim had list, and this quiet L-ment as a 1 1 indoo ti<;er is knovn to ibomin^ ravine, ndant, a splendid in \\\vnn no better y courtesies, I was ,le, a pleasure I was I had lon;^ become atiuns, and the pros- md douVjtless vege- jrdinary character ; n traveller who had th could not fail in .1 pleasantly. m met, or one better ml when the cheroots the table the rii/ciitf 7'n'd-ivX- it/i . ////,V<'^r. >I3 o'n//,i/r between us was thoroughly e.stablisluii. I know not hnu many bumper-^ />rni>irmer swim had not apparently exhausted his energies, for soon but forty or fifty yards separated him from tcvm firma. All thought the ruse had failed ; pubhc sympathy was strongly excited in th.e dog's behalf, a few strokes more, and his feet would touch the bottom, when, with a tremendous swirl, fifty times greater than ever fresh run salmon made at a fly, the water appeared to open, and the .swimmer with a howl disappeared. Ine Malays well knew their work ; the boat was kept stationary and line was paid out ; no unnecessary hurry was exhibited, and certainly ii /c minutes elapsed for the prowler to pouch his bait ere . pull was taken on him, and when it was made it was not of the easy de- scription used to hook a trout, by a simple turn of the wrist— no, the slack was gently recovered, when a strike was administered that would have driven the hook 'Id. in time to sec the throw-off to finish, bound, not hand and situated. Attached c, filed at the point nt's appearance was and the Malay crew of the estuary. With overboard. Lustily boat followed at a lie first effort was a inhurt, but the cruel ' volens he was again her out in the stream. with a .splash. ihe diausted his energies, separated him from ic had failed ; public n tl'.e dog's behalf, a lid touch the bottom, fty times greater than ly, the water appeared lowl disappeared. The the boat was kept no unnecessary hurry iiinutes elapsed for the luU was taken on him, not of the easy de- )y a simple turn of the ecovered, when a strike lave driven the hook Tricking an ^llligator. 135 through an inch plank. As luck would have it, it took effect, and the reciprocating jerks that followed were sufficient to dislocate a man's arm or overturn a canoe. Since this I have learned that the success of the project was all chance— an alligator does not, like a pike, gorge his bait, but tears it to pieces before swallowing. Ihe boatmen, jubilant with their success, soon made for the shore, paying out only sufficient line to retain the neces- sary strain to keep the hook in its hold. Dozens of volunteers were there to receive them ; the struggle was long and desperate, the impaled, one moment coming to the surface and lashing the water into foam, the next submerging himself, doubtless with the intention of grappling something at the bottom to give him additional powers of resistance. However, all his strength and strategy were unavailing ; with shouts and jeers he was dragged up the muddy margin, and at length secured by numerous cords wound round each limb and his powerful tail. From the beach he was transferred alive to the com- mandant's garden, where he was attached to stakes, his limbs being dragged out from under hiin. An immense fellow he was, eighteen feet long, and more bulk>' than usual However much I dislike his race and all ap- proximate to it, I must do this one the ju.stice to say that he remained game and indomitable to the end. As my kind host wished to preserve the skin un- injured that it might be forwarded to the museum at Amsterdam, poison was selected as the best means of terminating the alligator's existence. A dose of strych- nine sufficiently large to have killed a regiment, was m 136 All Round the World. therefore administered, placed in a cavity in a bullock's heart ; but.jud-ini; from results, the intended victim hail no objection to a repetition of a similar dose. At length a corporal's guard was sent for, and over a dozen shots were fired ere the enemy succumbed. After his demise I carefully inspected the carcase when it was divested of the skin ; the head was so solid and hard that, except in the region of the eye, no ordinary projectile would have done him injury ; the hide, especially along the vertebrae, was also capable of repelling a bullet from a musket, for it was not only hard as horn, but several inches thick. While at Java, let mc say that I enjoyed several days' excellent shooting. About a mile from Anjer, after passing through the cocoa-nut groves that margin the beach, commences an immense lagoon, well stocked with snipe and wild duck. Of the former the painted species will be found the most abundant ; cranes, egrets, and bitterns are also plentiful, while the neighbouring hi'^h grou.ids swarm with common and painted quail, and, where timber grows, with countless squirrels. In this lagoon are plenty of alligators, on the high grounds an abundance of snakes. A native wanted my shooting companion and self to try our skill on the former, but when we were shown his ticklish canoe, in which it would be necessary for us to embark, to insure success, without further delay we declined the polite invitation. One snake that I cut in two with a cliarge of shot was dissimilar to any I have previously or since met with ; it was over five feet in length, and very thick in proportion ; its fangs v>-ere ex- tremely large, the head blunt and (lat ; while the colour «.i u. Trickier an Alligator. .•)/ Lvity in a bullock's itcndcd victim hail r dose. At length )vcr a dozen shots After his demise it was divested of hard that, except •ojectilc would have along the vcrtebrre, from a musket, for ;ral inches thick. I enjoyed several mile from Anjer, jroves that margin igoon, well slocked former the painted ant ; cranes, egrets, e the neighbouring and painted quail, itless squirrels. In un the high grounds npanion and self to len we were shown be necessary for us )ut further delay we snake that I cut in milar to any I have •as over five feet in I ; its fangs were ex- bt ; while the colour on the back was drab, becoming gradually white as it approached the belly. , At Anier 1 was first introduced to a most delicious bev'crage'^viz., the contents of a decapitated green cocoa-nut with a proportionate mixture ..f old Jamaica On a warm day nothing can be more delicious rum. or more insinuating ; so take warning if circumstance.s should place you where it can be enjoyeel. for my friend who shot with me, still thirsty and desirous ot imbibing more, commenced singing "We won't go home till morning" before we had got our costumes changed pre- paratory to sitting doun to dinner. Next morning he assured me, however, that he was without a vestige of a headache. -.L '3^ All Round the World. C H A P T i: R XVII. FAST ON A CORAL R K K K • READER, have you ever been, during:; a calm, on board a steam-ship ^vhile it threaded the .ntri- cacies of coral reefs and shoals that too frequently interrupt navigation in a landlocked tropical sea ? Such was once my fate. The weather had been of that brilliant-heated nature that might have been anticipated in the month of December, when the figure that told our latitude was denoted by a unit. The day had been intensely warm, no place or position in cabin or on deck was bearable, and although an awning covered the poop, the ap- pearance of comfort that various attitudes denoted was only an assumption ; the destruction of Manilla cheroots and the consumption of cool drinks was frightfully great— both, doubtless, being considered excellent repel- lents of the heat emanating from a vertical sun. Not the faintest ripple that spoke of a puff of wind had darkened the water all through the day, the temperature had been stifling, overpowering ; even the Lascar portion 'd. Fast on a Coral Reef. i|9 II R V. V. !•■. durin}:; a calm, on threaded the 'ntri- frcqucntly interrupt ;;i ? Such was once ;hat briUiant-hcated ted in the month of id our latitude was jen intensely warm, deck was bearable, the poop, the ap- titudes denoted was of Manilla cheroots nks was frightfully ircd excellent repel- i vertical sun. Not 1 pufi" of wind had lay, the temperature n the Lascar portion of the crew appeared to suffer under .ts ..fluen e an a the ships comoany who had duty to perform ^^^^J'^^^ that apathy that clearly told how little they felt l.ke work, and how distasteful exertion was under cx.stmg circumstances. The sun. at length, disappeared beneath the horizon, amid all the glories of a tropical sunset, nor was his disappearance regarded with regret al hop.ng that with darkness a mitigation of heat would take place. Nor were our hui^es disappomted. for ere the last day- watch tcnninated, an occasional breath of a,r icam- :;ated all. and gave us hopes of a speedy term.nat.n to our sufferings Still the water looked as .f o. had been poured over it, so calm and smooth was its .urface and when a glorious full moon arose, the co=^t o Sumatra on one side, distant about two m.le.s, ad the island of Banca on the other, faint from beuvg ^^^^1-^ °ff; were both to be seen. Who that has ever travelled throu'dA e Malay Archipelago can forget the dense l^piJa. .erdure that lines the sl.ore of t e num^ous islands ; the graceful palms wavmg m profusion to the l^ater-s edge ; the rarefied clear sky and the transparent '^^^Ir eight bells (midnight) I went ^und^^ .sentries, and finding all correct retired ^o -Y ^ tl t the hope of sleeping. Of course, long ere tins horn . hghts Lad bin extinguished, and the important ceremony ^f undressing was therefore bemg i>erformed m the dark, when a tremendous thump, which threw me o t my fee u d nearly forced mo through, the bulkhead, followed iy a crashing noise, intermingled with abundant or e.s. and exclamations from the officer and watch on deck, r !l 140 All Round the World. announced that the ship was cither on a reef or on shore. Calchint,^ up tliose artieles of apparel which came first, in a UKMuent I was on deck ; orders were Ijein;^ issued for the eni;ines to be reversed ; up each hatchway swarmed n"y soldiers. \Vith quickest steps the crew rushed about performin^^ \arious services, while the captain, in a state of frenzy, appeared ubi(iuitous, and our noble vessel, instead of being on a horizontal keel, had her stem stuck up in the air as if star-trazinir, while her stern was correspondingly depressed. One glance told the story, we were on a coral reef, hard and fast, and our prospect of getting off uninjured entirely depended on the sea remaining calm. Without confusion the soldiers fell into their respective places, ready to act in whatever capacity their services might be required— such is the re- sult of discipline and education ! For coolness and courage in the hour of danger, I will back my countrymen by long odds against any others in the world. 1 "tunately the' steam-ship had only been going at half-spc or our situation would have been dangerous in the extreme— as it was, our grip of the reef was so strong that the re- versed engines under a full head of steam failed to release us. Shifting cargo, so as to change the trim of the ship, was next adopted, but without avail ; anchors afterwards were got out astern, and the capstans manned, but with no belter success. If the long-wished-for breeze were now to spring up, in an hour or two our temporar>' home would be in pieces. With reluctance, orders were given for the boats to be prepared for sea. Stewards hurried about looking after stores and water-breakers, while the junior officers examined oars and thole-pins. ■I ;i reef or on shore. wliicli ciiinc first, were beiiiLj issued ]) each hatchway st steps tlie crew ervices, while the xl ubi- were trotted across decks, the engines at the same time being reversed under a full head of steam. " ^'^ j^'^'^ "f '/TT'lTt keep up the tramp !-well done." for .slowly at fust, but witi gradually increasing pace, the ship eonnuenced to slide; when gaining velocity, backward, she slu>t atloa upon her watery home. Some anxiety was felt as to the iniury she might have suffered, but the carpenter pu this at rest, for having sounded the well, he reported that no leak had been sprung. The coral reef on which we 14^ All Round the IVorld. had struck was not marked on our charts ; in appearance it resembled a hu^^e mushroom, with the upper portion within a few feet of the surface of the water. With threat caution and uiuLr half-speec! we proceeded to Sini^'aporc, on the Straits of Malacca, where clivers were employed to inspect the ship's bottom ; all the injury she had suffered was the loss of a few sheets of copper and the carryint; away of a portion of her fore foot. But the examinatio.j and the performing of some necessary repairs caused a delay of several days, the very thing I desired most, for on my previous visit to this beautiful settlement my stay was so contracted that I had not half the time 1 wished to visit the surrounding neighbourhood, so pro- ductive of food for the naturalist. ■It u /. 1 A Battle in a lUlliard-Room, H3 ts ; in appearance the upper portion •ater. With threat :clcd to Sini,'apore. rs were employed ry she had suffered r and the carryintj it the examination ry repairs caused {T I desired most, iful settlement my it half the time 1 ibuurhood, so pro- CllAPTKR XVI 11. A bATTLli IN A IJILLIARD-ROOM. WHO that has visited Singapore can forget the pretty town, the magnificent tropical vegetation, the numerous islands, and shipping of every rig and nationality ? The costumes here to an ICuropean's eye are as quaint .is they are numerous. The Tartar and Chinar^an, Hindoo and Parsee, IMalay and Arab, are all to be found, making as great a liabel of the market-place as that of Gibraltar on a Sunday morning. But although these sights made a strong impression, a little episode in which I jjlayed the part of principal left an impression on my mind never to be forgotten. 1 had arrived at Singapore from Hong Kong in charge of invalids, the ship was ordered to the new harbour to take in coals, and I found myself with an abundance of spare time and disposition for wandering. At last the day for our departure approached. I bade adieu to new acquaintances, and I had arranged with an old and tried friend to meet for perhaps the last time and spend our ff-' 144 All Round the World. :.:i' !Ml 'I I f.n.l cvcnincj tofrcthcr at the MUi.rcl-roums atlPchcd to the Kspcranza ll.^tcl. At luilf-past ten 1 cln>iM.ccl mi > the place of rc.ulc.vous; the room was unocciipiec except by a Chin.se marker and a ^tran-er. who 1./ apparently asleep on one ..f the benches Nou, th..-- billiard-room was an nnnunse place. I thmk .1 con- liiincd eiuht or ten tables, with abiuuiance of space tor several oth-Ts. On eiiterin-. the marker was coverm- up bis table, but on statin- my desire to play, and tlu.s keep the p' open till my friend arrived, the cover was removal antl a '^mwc commeiiceil. My boyish d.ys, except when at school, were . ,1 spent in a barrack. Was it, then, to be wondered al thai smt:le-stick and foils h:.d becc.me amnsements at whieh 1 was an adept ? In .act. few could e.xcel me m either of these uaslimes; and conscious of my science I look pleasure in practice whenever opportunity occurred. W ell Ihat it was so, for but for that .kill I should not now be alive to narrate what 1 am about to tell.. Our -ame proceeded wilkout interruption t.h t u: Chinaman lad .scored forty-seven and 1 forty-e.^dit Then my anta^^Miist marked three more and proclaimed himself victor. Previous to th.is 1 had been m lb . hab.l of playino- a game of sixty-three points, and on stal.nL; s( as wH'i is my belief that, if tlie other thirteen points were adocd, I could with facility ^^\n, the marker was satisfied to continue the game, provided 1 a-reed to I.a\ whether I lost or won. But this arrangement was not penr.itted to be pui in executioK, for the unknown who slept upon the bench sprang from his seat, and, rushing towards me, reviled H loms attpchfd to 1 I dropiK'tl iiu ) was unoctiipici , triiii^cr. will) 1 1/ chc.s. Now, llii- I think it con- iiicc of spacL- for r was covering' up ay, ami lluis kcc]) [1, llic cover was ool,wcrc ■ il spent rtondcrcd al tint iscnicnts at which ;.\ccl mc in cither iny science, I took ity occurred. Well should not now be 11.. .crruption til' the ,nd 1 forty-ei^dit. ..re and proclaimed 1 been in th . habit inls, and on statinuj Iher thirteen points in, the nuuker was led 1 aL;reed U) pa\ .-rmitted to be pui ept upon the bench .owards nie, reviled y1 BattU in a /Ultitn-d-Iuhuii. ■45 ine in the !j;rosscst lan^un^JTc as a swindler and a cheat. It was no use tryin;.; to pla\'. for, without cess.rion, an entire vocabulary of vituperation was hurled at me. Mesh and blood may be over-tu.\ed, and at len^'tii my patience t;ave way, . lul m\- loni^ue became loosed. " \'ou bl.ick son of a .sea-cook, .sit down, or, if you interrupt me ;i^r;iiu, I'll !" &c., cS:c., I exclaimed. " Wli.it you call me— a bl.ick son of a sea-cook.' You repeal it, if you d.ue." I did so. While I was repeatin;^' my wonls, he aimed a blow at me, .md I parried. A^^ain he struck at me, with no belter result.s. A third time the attempt was made, and, by way of ciian^^e, 1 added to the pro- gramme by makini,' a feir.t ". itli my left hand, knockinjj my ad\ersar>-down with the riiiht. So far 1 hail avoided a contest ; now I was in for it. Soon the foe was on his feet; and twice more 1 brou;,dit him, by a .strai^dit hit from the elbow, to his knees. Findini,^ that the j^ame was decidedly adverse to him. he t^rathered himself to;4ether, -ushed to the door of the room, and sounded a war-whoop. Ikit a few moments elapsed before it was answeretl, and in rushed four Chinamen. They all made for the cue-rack, and each j;rasped a weapon. 1 saw from their manner that mischief was intended, s.' breaking' the cue I had played with throuL;h the centre, and doubling,' my shell-jacket around my arm, I re' leated into a corner, for my foes were between me and the door. From the manner and appearance of my antagonists, I felt that life depended upon my skill and pluck. Who under such circumstances would not be a craven to suc- cumb as long as he had a breath left in him or power to i4^> All Round I Ik- World. littU cmarcN, ,l,>:v«icst ,.f curs. 1 l..,.w ,l,o,„ ..I . I v. ahvays fnumi tlwm s.,. The ,,r,..,..ct of n-MM.i.K.' ^» ,.„.ccl .l,cm ... dcclino the '""'-'■"'.' \,f.l „.l,„n, I s.r..cl<, ur.,od .1,.,., ..... a,..l .. • ■ : , o,- s,.n,. n,i,n.tc, 1 successfully ..arriod .dl 1. .»> r.- ,„„, u,is lasted i'->.id..e;nn.»so ;>-;-' f„ At Icn-nh the violence of ni> cxciuoii. k-ft arm, which I hud used a. . al tell. Already my :.dd;:.dMp.essby,,,>-s;de:........^-.--^^^ ;,. ,,edd,.«,,,,..cea....^^^^^ ^ , 1 Til,- inst 'T;itor was lUULUy m -.ff.Tw.'irds occurred. i He 111^11^,^1^1 f^';:;;:t:conceiUratia.allhisstren.th^.rab^.^^ received it on my broken --^^ .^'''^\\° ^^ " u.city the force of the stroke disarmed h.m W th th veU c y . / 1 Hit tic in a Billiard-Room. '47 ill ri<,rht. So, little ng aiul dcsiKHitc ith my ^-itrVc in ii ilh a rush my f""t^» f:iram-<..' ami posi- ,il. Chiii.uiu'ii .ivc licm well, ami li.ivc of ivsistaiici-, 1. V ravour. woiiUl h.iVL hul tin- villain, lie ul fici'cc ami fast ami the loii-lh of c position I liacl assailants to<;cthcr, larricd all blows, rc- Linity offered How )le to say correctly, ions commenced I" , I had used as .i ; blootl from several :' I had been brou'^ht led to try and fi^bt^ irtunity immediately tor was directly m ■iiyth for a blow. I lose to his hand that n. With the velocity lini at the base of the Vith a rush I sprani^ .c blows aimed at me jd I could summon I rushed tnit of the buildinfj. My speed of foot carried me away from the ruck. Only one w.is able to keep pace; and as I passed down the covered way which connected the billiard-room with the hotel. 1 watched my chance, wheeled shari)ly round and i,Mve him .i blow across the cranium which doubtless lo this d.iy has left a mark. In the hotel all h:M retired to rest ; doors and windows stood open, after the manner of the h-a.st ; so, sccin.L,^ no one. I pas.sed on and m.ide for the Masonic Arms, a smaller house, where two friemls were staying the one a sur^a'on in our army, the other a lieutenant of a Hen.^^al ret^iment of cavalry. On reachinjj; this esta- blishmen't my strength failed me. and the landlord (once boatswain to Rajah Brooke's yacht) as/isted me to a chair. Soon the surj^eon came to me. a L;lass of br.indy and water recalled my scattered senses, and eiyht or ten stitches in different portions of my head drew the various contused and broken wounds tot,'ether. When I narrated to L. what had taken place, he advised me to go to the ma<;istrate. and volunteered to accompany me. He was found at his post of duty. ■a\\(\ within a few minutes a posse of police, with the gallant surgeon and myself at their head, might have been seen return- ing to' the battle-field. You must not imagine that 1 walked. No, 1 was far too weak for lh;'.t ; but a com- fort.ible Chinese chair, bt)rne by two coolies, performed the duty of conveyance. l""or some time we unsuccess- fully searched for the would-be assassins. At length the' whole party were captured in an outhouse, firmly secured, and marched off to th.: lock-up. Next morning 1 had to attend the police court. When the prisoners \. 2 I4& All Round the World. were produced, none but those who witnessed then- ap- pearance could possibly believe that one n.an coukI Uct such injury on six. /^^ -^'^ator (a SouU^ American Spaniard) had a fearful wound the others v"rc all n>o.' or les, contused or cut; and when, un- washed and dirty, they were ran-.^cd n. the dock, they almost elicited pity, from their -oe-begone and hasgard appearance. The sentences passed upon them all ^^crc Xuate to their deserts, and the billiard-room was "XrSt::^ is true there are abundant witne.es to prove. I do not tell it as a proof of my courage, but Is a reason that all should study the art of self^kfence^ for if a traveller, you know not what hour your sk.U may be ailed upon to save your life. In the neighbourhood where this^ook place, a few weeks before, a merchant skipper was found murdered. The gang who assaded me were strongly suspected to be the perpetrators. I i 'Id. Chased by a Buffalo. 149 witnessed their ap- i\l one man could nstigator (a South wound ; the others cut ; and when, un- d in the dock, they begone and haggard ui)on them all were c billiard-room was : abundant witnesses f of my courage, but e art of self-defence, t hour your skill may in the neighbourhood :s before, a merchant c c „ coolies- ,„ i„ ,1,0 right places but the tl„.J - ^^^^^ Jeformccl, but he .as the ^1-'- Z^;" ^d he MU glory -{ ^'u'l'r:/: . tot hoT'th? day ..s ho„. .eep in it. It niaiit-K-'-' , , c i v. Urnv ^t tf the brush —on, on, he would ton, missed— and >i, .r aid it si'^nify how many buds He miss^ neither did it si^ y „ ^^^^. ,^ j^^^ ^^...t^h- thcy were numerous- o a. ant . ,^,,rMnc<\ word, and the cquanun.ty o hs tern U e f^ this excursion undisturbed. He was, in , j / up to this ^'^•^"^ ^^^^d fallow, the life and soul of ^'"'^^''1^^:^^^^^, and, moreover.a man every paity he '^^^^'^'^" ,^ ^^ ^fitcd by it, one who had seen much of th- ^^;'[':' ')" J^ ^^^ i,c was :ri:::r=^^:S;'^r^t^ wherever they could be stuck. 1 bscnccfoi :i\vcck, ; self -.11 :Kk- on the risen we— for our niierous coolies (lay advanced and jked forward with ;cts of amusement. sary. '1'^^'^ '''•'^^^ rms and legs were -well, he was not stoutest man that 1. and he did glory lay was, how steep how stiff the brush ing to night ; and ds he missed— and s always his watch- npcr ever remained 2 was, in fact, a jolly , the life and soul of nd, moreover, a man d profited by it, one rgottcn. But he was ;omc ideas which did iiong others was his ,ble pockets, powder- st and most awkward I and red, terminating :veloped i.erson, while tcr additions dangled C/Mscd by a Buffalo. 151 It mattered not how hot it was, and Southern China is not pnnx-rbial for coolness, my stout friend would sooner part with his life, suffer a stroke of coup dc sohil, than dismantle himself of one of these playthings. Oiten have I seen him toiling up the side of a hill, every pore of his skin in active operation, with his collar closed to the throat, while we were dressed in the lightest garb, unbut- toned at ever>' possible point where decency would per- mit or the retention of our clothes on our backs allow. To this day I believe he considered that game de- manded this honour and self-sacrifice, that the loss of comfort was necessary to success, and th;it unless he retained all these cockneyfied addenda, he would be unable to hold his gun straight or pull his triggers. Well the -round we had to get over was traversed, and from our noonday halting-place we determined to com- mence operations by beating a sparse cover, known in- variably to contain pheasants. For over an hour we were unsuccessful ; a few birds were seen, but were so wild that the greatest advocate for long shots would not have dreamt of throwing away a charge after them ; however, in a pineapple grove at the top of a valley, better resuts were anticipated. In this we were not mistaken, for the moment we reached its margin, not less than a dozen birds flushed, each taking wing at the same moment (in fact, similar to a covey of partridge early in the season), out of whose ranks we tumbled over three ; the remainder were marked down on the slope of a hill, a few hundred yards distant, where were feeding half a dozen water buffaloes, the beast of draft always here employed for ploughing heavy, wet rice lands. i» in \\ 15^ All Round the World. The CI0.4S were whistled up by -..- stout fnend. to whom the)' belon-ed ; the coolies were called from cover, and with confident hopes of success wc started for the marked birds. Off went the brace of pointers through the Ion-, coarse i^rass, when their master waved Ins hand as a si-nal that their services were a-am requn-ed. I'oi- ward we advanced in line ; back and forth the canines quartered their -round, with nothin- to mterrup: then- pro-ress. except here and there an occasional dwarl pme. Now these trees were not ab(we fifty feet hi-h, very sparse of limbs except at the summit, and the interval between e;ich tree was probably over one hundred >-ards. In skirmishin- order we advanced. By this time the do-s had commenced to wind their -ame, when the con- fomided buffaloes closed on their centre, tossed up their heads, sniffed the air, and pawed the ground, buch c(Miduct was not to be mistaken ; their intentions were evidently hostile, nor were we long kept m suspense of their modus operandi. The patriarch of the drove, a giant old bull, stepped to the front, glorious in his hairless, mud- baked coat, and advanced with measured steps upon the now standing p.vmters. For their safety we had no fear, for the water-buffalo is not fleet, and very awkward, but that the brutes would flush our game ere we were within shooting distance amounted to a certainty. It was no use hallooing or gesticulating ; onward came the foe, the do' -.'■ ^ sa..' ^'■^'- pursuer to avoid bcinj; run over, but tlicir patience be- came so thorouj^hly taxed tliat as a last resource they sought tlieir jolly stout owner for protection. With de- spair written on our friend's countenance, he exhausted his vocabulary of terms to drive his doijs from him ; all was of no avail, and worse than that, the hu;j;e, awkward buffalo chaiiL^ed from the former objects of its ire and came straij^lit at their owner. For a moment my friend hesitated. Only for a moment did he appear in doubt, when, suddenly spinnint:^ round, he bolted down hill for the nearest tree with all the velocity and impetus that his legs and weight could command, closely followed by his cloven-footed foe. Never to this day have I seen a more ludicrous .scene; if I should live to the age of Methuselah never shall I again ; and the rest of our party were possessed of the same opinion. I do not believe, even supposing the situa- tion had been one of most imminent danger, either of us, from the immoderate fit of laughter with which we were seized, could have gone to his assistance. But such a race between two welter weights could not last long ; the tree was reached, and clasping its stem with his right hand, our friend drew himself round and behind it with the false hope that the luirsuer would pass onwards. Mr. 15uffalo, it is true, overshot his mark, and had to go some distance before he could pull up, but he was not thus to be cheated, so came back to the pursuit with inore mea- sured and cautious steps ; for almost a minute each surveyed the other — ten yards did not intervene between them — first from one side of the tree, then from the other, a stare was given, when again down went the All Round the ll'orlil. 154 7 V u. .riy ovcrruu by our stout but .ct.vo com- f^^^i: "'^^ ' ^^ao/.n uossU^ly more, evolutions of this ^"""" ^ u. nt"rc accomplished, .hen. as .f by rotary ..■ a, op uen^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^,,^^.,^ f,,,„ mutual consent, - calleo 1 ^^^^^^ ^^^^ ,,. ^olcncc of the cx^-e^^^^^^^ lost h>s vo.ce : ^^ ^^ ';^, ;^,,f,;,,\,e dogs, and lastly vociferously, hrst at the bun. u ^^^ at „u,. unf...i.,« -■;- ;:: r r:;"v- -« -1.0. liad to be careful , tile eyes, oi ii i hi,,.; ti,„e was asain ='.'=-! '° ^'^tLrtl -te it 1 K.,,1 hfttcr reta n his breath latUei man vv pursued had bet c e ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^,^^^^^ ^^ cipals as on t u s jow-comedy appearance ; unwieldiness and excessiv y spinning round a ^^^^""^^ ^f breath from other ^vith increasing ^'^;^; ^f ' .;^\,,, ,ere altered: fatigue ^vas apparent. The tactics ^^^_ ■J fUr the bull had projected a deep piot ^ evidently the duu uu t^ j practise a r;e:;rc,Xo.r:::rctr.ote>*eti.eort.e n jj ■ ! id, Ik; ic-dash<;d at bcc;uiic the strife, o^t ivj,\\c\y skipped, orcat k-nt;th, was at but active com- , evolutions of this ■d. when, as if by urfcctly blown from our friend had not p for air he swore the dogs, and lastly r to his aid. But he rsuer were still upon idled as up, and the rather than waste it d was lowered, at;ain ;ssion of him, and the 1 friend was put to a ,sed round a tree by was not in imminent IS ; but the two prin- remarkable for their comedy appearance ; be found for our ap- ing in laughter. The sed, each surveyed the want of breath from ics now were altered : . a deep plot of ven- ; about to practise a from either side of the Chased by a BuJJ'alo. 155 ticc, a kind of b()-pee[) amusement undertaken to take the other at a disadvantage. This halt restored my friend's exhausted wind, and with its return his tongue was again looseneil, nor was his vocabulary more choice, only seasoned with an occasional Cjerman interjection to make up f.;. deficiencies in the luiglish language. The fiiiah', however, was now at hand. The previously unused gun, which had been retained in his left hand apparently forgotten, was called on for aid ; an oppor- tunity to use it as desired pres'Mited itself, and at less than ten yards the centre of the foe's tail was made the target. The aim was just such as was required, the caudal appendage was nearly severed, anil the bull, thoroughly discomfited, took to his heels and fled, bellowing with pain and wrath, down the face of the hill, as quiclc as his .short club-looking legs could go, followed by both dogs, now giving tongue in pursuit like a brace of beagles. The wind-up was as ludicrous as the episode, and, rolling in the grass, all three of us only laughed the louder as our friend joined us and hurled at our devoted heads every imprecation, in Dutch and English, known to him. Shoot with us, or be our com- panion again he never would, so indignant and sulky he left for our place of rendezvous. But at night, when we rejoined him with a tolerably large bag. over a glass of generous wine, his wrath became appeased to such an extent that his jolly laugh might have been heard the longest and loudest at the ridiculous appearance he must have cut, and the amusement he afforded his friends. Strange to say, ere we sat down to dinner, an old M All Round the IVorhi. ^'!''r. r bcttc'Tuul more hospitable pc„,,l. .h." It ,:::;d:a:!t-' this distant colony arc nowhere ... be found. ! /. /Imofij^ Chinese PimUs. D/ il bull, now tho- itci-l our quiirlcrs, ury her brute hvA It to injury, ;ind 1 end have ;i fit of ml indignation at purso. ng now sleeps the •cds of luiroi)eans, cry of a Southern ^lUly on thein all ! )itable people than are nowhere to be CHAP T !•: K X X. A M () \ t; CHIN !■. S K 1' I K A T 1 ; S . ON the seaboard side of the island of lloni,^ Kong is situated a villai^^e of considerable magnitude, called by the luiglish, Stanley, by the Chinese, Chuck- choo. Close by, on an eminence overlooking the place, is a barrack, more intended for a lianitarium than a strong- hoU'i. Victoria, the capital, it is true, is not possessed of much attraction, but life a; Stanley was complete i.solation — the majority of officers who had been stationed there had either become drunkards or gamblers, or, not unfrequently, prematurely went to an ear!)' grave. Well, what do you suppose were my feelings as, one evening, while dressing for mess, the orderly corporal of my company shoved the order-book in my hand, in which I saw myself detailed to proceed on the morrt)w to take I command of this wretched place ? Disgust in the most . superlative sense. Soon I was r// iv/i/c\ The sail round the south side of the island of Hong Kong is very pretty ; the hills cer- { I ■ . I! 'II •5« All Round the World. t.inlv arc stcriU-. Imt llicir outli.i- arc bc.Ul and Krand, :;;;;:u;: water. f.rcican.ss and ,,nil.ncy^^^^ can most favourably compare w.lh Uu- ever a mle Mediterranean. About three hours' voyage la.uled uk at ~:ation. where I was greeted by n,ypredj.ces^^^ ,,:;Uheten.porarilyattad,edass,stantsur,.... - - describe the latter. 1 1. was about mx feel fuu lu J U .viththeframcofalIcrculesandane>.d k^-^^^^ raven's win,; flashin,^ with courage and .ntelh,. c v c ..vcr he snokc. A finer or m.bU r specunen wl a H.^^H ^ac I Ivcr saw; a n.>re true, brave, and .^^^^ bungalow till my own was put .n orde . •- > ^J^ J^^ . ni.dU. as we discussed our late dn.ner. 1 found tl ce , bo Kl of sympathy between us that was calculated o Hnennto /lasting friendship. What was that bond . y wUl asU. NMW. we were both -^Icntly dev.^d t. the sports of the field and the use of the ge.Ule. dcl.c te ;.n d. For a couple of weeks tin,e sped on rap.d wm g , ch had so much to tell of his favour.te pursu,t t.a nht after night, aye. well on into the wee smao..^^^^^^ ,v.;,ld sit on the bungalow verandah ,n our ol,loll> clu encased in panjan,as. smoking cheroots and s,ppmgak brandy-pawnce.spinningorlistenu,gtoeacly. h. -^ .-- Such was our occupation, the m.dmght ch.t had ju.t „.archcd past, and the cheery notes .^ ^;e extant semnj. u-ere sounding the musical chant of All s ell. uhen R urned abruptly to me with the enquiry, •'Ibn.oy^.u. been to Lenuna Island ? " On answermg m the ncgat vc he continued. " Then there .e will go tomorrow .fe leather is favourable, for though ifs a long pull f.on, u. iiincy of colouring, tin- cvLT-liUKlcd )ya^c laiuUnl mc at by my prctUccssor : surgeon. 1^:1 luc : feci four in lu'i^^ht, ,n eye iliirk as the 1 intelliu^'ii^^: \\\\c\\- .Lcimen til" a lli^h- •ave, ami i;cnorous- ic an inmate of hi;^ onler. ami the first r, 1 fountl there was ;it was calculated to h;it was that bond ? u-ilcntly (levutt'd to ■ the gentle, delicate spetl on rapid wru'f^ ; iv<>nri':c pursuit that ic wee sma' hours, w- in our lobldUy chairs, (its and sippiiu;- weak tfieach iUh>r's yurns. Ini^dit relief luul ju-^t of the distant sentries "All's well," when 1^. uiry, " Have ymi ever crin-- in the negative. go to-morrow, if the it's a long pull from 1 Among Chinese Pi rates. m here, tile trip is worth the trouble, for I can show you a small snipe marsh where I have twice obtained four or five couple of Idiig-bills," A bargain was struck on the spot. A day's change, at least, was ;•. treat, and allliongll a gcner.d orik'r existetl that both should not leave the detachnuiit together, we lauglu'd at the (list. ml pros[)ect of court-martials, and determined with one accord to accept all risks. After discussing our chutnc)' and curried |)rawn-. at the morrow's bre.iki.st, the fast bo.ii was announced as wait- ing. So, whistling my dear and ever-true pointer Sancho to my heels — 15. armed with a shot-gun, I with a revolver, which I carried merely for protection, for wc had agreed to take shot about — we hastened down to the place of embarkation. From .Stanley, Lemma Island could ilistinctlj' be seen : it lay about eight miles off, almost directly to the south- ward. Its general api)earance is less rugged than iiong Kong, while its length is about seven miles, .\lier a sail of tluee hours, the keel of our boa' grated on the desired landing-place, and as we disembarked, instructions were given to the crew to proceed along the shore to a known inlet, where we would join them before sunset. As we started inland, the boat pushed off; so, for a time at least, we were separated from the rest of the world. The sun that day was not overpoweringly hot ; a cool, strong breeze j)layed over our faces as we breasleu the opposing hill-side. Sancho, old pet, ranged far and wide, hoping that his previous experience would assist him to fmd a point. L'p higher, higher, we ascend. Sancho finds no game, and vc at length reach the sum- Si All Round the World. 160 , o ,r,"i na view. Stanley, with its snoiv-wlutc bau.ia buuuin„ ^^ ^j^^, uwtwarcl was a Ml"''"; "»'•'• ,,,'',,.., „f the CclcsUal Umpire. ThinW bow maay V^^^^^ „,, „,,„„ „ i„ ^^l^:X^ „;,« Ko„« ba,- birth-place! To the \Nesuv T.-„ropean ships can be seen, »h.le tbe interval De s,,o,^.boat. On every description and s.ze "' ^ ^^ „ ^,„ declivity turning to the otber side, looUn do ^^^^ „pposite.o,vbie.,.ebad ^'^'^ ^, ,„„ „„e ''-^;^"ttr?Xcb:..:!:r>S,y,.^u.d ^ratir"leVto,-,cba...re^;^^ ^m-xssin- wealth and ganung icputation, . ::tr;erbai.. so„,e r=>;;,,''t!:^::,;:7rerbi..s d *:, ^"'*' ra?:.;^b"taX.d rsnipe-«ronn. B. bad ravrnes, t,l at e" t, ^^^^^^ ^^.^^^^ ^.^^^ ^^^^^ mentioned. 1 «a, a ""° ' , . ,, „.^5 cnltivated so in ext.:nt, tbe greater P""" ° „.^, fo, ,l,at »■"" '■-.= » ""■■'•, "rt;e:;:dd::ec,aimed land water -lovmg cereal. In "'e t ^,-j^, ^„ hour's ,vorl;. „.e found birds ; and u-ben we ^^f^-^^ Satisfied „.e had seven brace o -"1>^ ->J ^ ^ °[_';^ ,„,„,j „ur ^iStel^r^l ^>-y -receive her rreigbt. AS we ■Id. A»io?io- Chi]icse Pirates. i6i icw. Stanley, with kcii no larger than side. Aw^iy to the 1- ship on her honie- ilth of the Celestial ic has to encounter that gird her ocean IS Hong Kong har- European ships can hem is crowded with .CSC shore-boat. On ; down the declivity i, a few hunc/ed feet led in the hills one se villages, partially lias ever been my lot c unhealthy, it would a man, regardless of .utation, might retire, • companion. By the iiped, over hills, down ic snipe-grount B. had cen hills, sixty acres or ,f which was cultivated even too wet for that . and unreclaimed land cd, after an hour's work, a pair of teal. Satisfied warded— we turned our vous, little doubting we civc her freight. As we descended towards the sea, a glorious Oriental sunset greeted us, and we both halted to sec old Sol ret're to rest behind the mighty ocean, attended by legion.s of clouds decked in the most refulgent coloured armour. But time hurries on apace, night quickly follows sunset in tropical climates, and nearly a mile inteivened between us and the boat. Both of us were youthful and active, and less than fifteen minutes placed us upon the shingle beachof our rende/.vous. Ihit where is the boat.-' Surely some mistake has taken place. The scoundrelly crew cannot have left without us. " Confound them ! " " They deserve to have their heads punched ! " were the ejacula- tions that fell from our lips. But talking was but a waste of time. Let us decide what is to be done, and let us do it quickly. In a minute our determination was that each should go along the coast in opposite directions, as, possibly, the boat might have come a less distance or gone farther. If either should find the boat, he was to return to his companion, keeping close in shoi^; but if unsuccessful after searching for two miles, each was to turn to the right-about, and meet where we then were about to part. B., whistling " Bonnie Dundee," with his gun on his .shoulder, took the western route ; I, with Sancho at my heels, the eastern. Darkness had now dropped her sable mantle over the landscape, and many were the falls and bruises that I got as I threaded my intricate way through the almost insurmountable boulders that lay along thr beach. I knew that the night was not going to be daik, because the moon rose early. Still, 1 wished most co • I went through a mile ef dially that it rose earlier. M :iT : 11' ^11 162 All Round the World. most fatiguing clambering till at length I found mysdf in such a cnl dc sac that a retrograde n^ovement was ab- solutely necessary. To avoid a repetition ot such acci- dents, I made a detour inland. As soon as I reached sod, I found walking much more favourable, for there was nothing to oppose my progress but a sparse covermg o brush But if the change was agreeable to me, it appeared quite the reverse to my dog. Occasionally he would go before me a few paces and return growling showing every indication of anger. This conduct of bancho s struck me as strange, indeed more than strange, indicative of trouble, for, poor old veteran, his knowledge of life- had long taught him not to proclaim a false alarm. St.! I saw nothing, but for the sake of caution I determined to return to the boulder-covered beach. In carrying out this decision. I turned suddenly round, and behind me. just showing over the rise in the land I had quitted, appeared the figures of several Chinamen. (I may as well tell my readers that this was in the year 1857, at a time when a price was paid for every European s head.) At once I knew that I was followed, and that with no amiable intention. Drawing my revolver from my belt and cocking it, I resolved to pursue my way, anc only use my weapon if compelled to do so. I made, however, for the shore, not that it offered greater security, but intuition told me that from the sea alone help comd be expected. Fain would I have turned, but I felt I had a duty to perform, and do it I would. The boulder.s again impeded my progress, and the rising tide cau,sed my steps to be necessarily nearer the bluffs that de- scended to the beach. we Evt iniong Chinese Pirates. '^>3 I found myself wcmciit was ab- on of such acci- as I reached soil, c, for there was parse covering of :o me, it appeared laliy he would go rowling, showing duct of Sancho's itrange, indicative knowledge of life false alarm. Still tion I determined In carrying out 1, and behind me, id I had quitted, men. (I may as lie' year 1857, at a European's head.) and that with no liver from my belt my way, ar.d only I made, howsver. eater security, but . alone help could led, but I felt I had ild. The boulders rising tide caused he bluffs that de- After such a warning as I had received, of course I kept my eyes about me, and instead of two or three assailants I became convinced that there were at least a dozen. Their numbers made them brave, and no longer was any great amount of strategy practised to prevent their presence being known. I had almost made up my mind to place my back against a rock and fight it out, for I felt I had been headed off from further progress, when a boat shot round a point not fifty yards off. ]}. was in lier, and, rushing through the surf and water w aist- deep, I clambered on board. To explain my escape to him at that moment was unnecessary, for my pursuers, baulked in what they had considered a certain prize, lo.st their prudence, and, yelling, rushed upon the beach. A couple of gingalls which they carried sent their mcs.sen- gers whistling by us, and thus gave us fair grounds for retaliation. B. stood up in the stern sheets ; not thirty yards from us stood conspicuous the largest of our assailants. Quickly B.'s gun was pitched to his shoulder, and with the report arose a most unearthly yell. Never have I heard a more frightful cry from those who have fallen beside me in the battle-field, or from the raving madman confined in a strait-jacket. B.'s gun was loaded with one of Eley's heavy-shot wire-cartridges. In a few hours we reached the detachment, and just as we were about to land, I attempted to fire my revolver. Every barrel missed. M r i' 164 All Round the World. l\ I CHAl'TER XXI. SHOOTING Nl^AR HONG KONG. T N speaking of Hong Kong, the uninitiated are e^t to I think that it is the h.st place m the woild vvh J choice would lead one to visit, but when you hav t a versed that mountainous and picturesque island, w aiaU-re. h ^h ts numerous valleys, rested from the noon a^ un in some of its innumerable villages, or d.a:^ au, ^^ d comparison, I must :. . false proph^ m ced^ . -n n , cr -issui-'l'.v. f ifter yeais, look deck "Clrn^ro-nCvaMs I have *ays .ept a diary a, I IkU c„n,n,c,Kl all sportsmen to do, and .vhcn I , Z« i,-,ck throush musty and soiled pages, I find tht th( \va KONG. litiatcd arc apt to I the world which hen you have tra- ic island, wandered from the noonday ages, or drank the ny rugged ravini..:. me of itb Mc:chani md good-feilowship : prophet indeed, or :;r years, look back period you spent ilways kept a diary, n to do, and when I soiled pages, I find 1 good and constant ;s of the Celestial Shooting near Hong Kong. ^65 Empire, as they have executed before or after in tlie many climes and distant lands it has been my lot to visit. All may not have the same opportunities as I had, for I, shortly after arrival, made the acquaintance of a thorough sportsman and kind-hearted, worthy gentle- man, who kept ;m excellent kennel of both pointers and setters, and who kindly took me by the hand, and as chaperon introduced me to all the best localities for game, which he had found out through his own inde- fatigable exertions and love of adventure, during a long residence in this colony. I should have some hesi- tation in pointing out these hunting-grounds, for fear my worthy friend should object to the world being in- formed of the result of his labours; but, alas! he now sleeps peacefully in the Ilappy Valley, where neither dog nor gun can disturb him, warmly remembered by all who knew him, and much regretted by every one who had the honour of calling him friend. No true man or sportsman should pass his last resting-place without dropping a tear ; and often have I regretted that cir- cumstances have not carried me back to that far Eastern land, that I might pay this rightful tribute to the kindest friend, the most unselfish man, I ever met. If this in- troduction be deemed irrelevant, ' warn my readers that I make this rhapsody the penalty for which I give my experience. Early one bright November morning I sailed with three companions t'rom Hong Kong harbour, on board the good fast boat ' Pat-wan.' My esteemed friend, D., was one of my associates. The others were both mer- V» I'*' i\ [66 All Ro7ind the World. cta,us from Canto,,, keen ,,>ort.,„=., ""^ K"°;^.;'-*;:j; A rr,.,h fairwiml was blouiiig as «i; got u-Klcr «ti„u. ""'■r:A.«'>: -r sec"e-;:St^. .a,.ou, .... ",' rid. which we were now rnnning, nor can a ;:::rr2::~ variety ora>,Unas^ anywhere else. L :, rimble of encountering tne b„ anc, i-Z-'Xt . ;,eTraccrn. snaUe-like clipper ; "°f 'rrTrat^^v c'for the own.rs of these crafts "all Intent o;.noney.makinB, and ready to charter to -, 1 n^tv to carry tea. silk, and opium, or some- :;irrn dJa Uttle 'plratleal business, if nothing else ■"^r we cleared the labyrinth o' *n>p;jC. - -m was • ^ A f,^r the Caosliccmoon rass, a ui&iai.v- »i.| — -"«i yMMMi id S'"'0'^^ ioUows. rot u-.idcr \\'ci'^\h )ut to the wind, of life. 1 tloubt iful harbour than inning, nor can a U kinds of boats Asiatic, be seen ip, strong as tir> cncountering tnc inakc-hkc clipper ; St Indianian ; the id symmetry ; the ding last boat— all ' perfect mosquito lats, sampans, mer- \c intricate paths of , markedly dissimi- y predominate, but iting yellow ensign iblem of every aa- bund, flying at the icrs of these crafts ready to charter to id opium, or somc- ness, if nothing else ipping, our stem was a distance of about mce ; but even after s not uninterrupted. S/iooiing near Hong Kong. 167 First we steered through a fleet of fishing-boats ; next a crowd of merchant junks, heavily freighted with the wealth of this Eastern clime, or some rapid steamboat cr mandarin snake boat shoots past — all on a visit to the European emporium. What between luffing and run- ning off our course to avoid collisions, more than an hour elapsed before we got through the passage, when, from the effect of the high lands shutting out the regular course of the wind, it was necessary to make several tacks to get a good offing for the place, we intended to run to. Castle Peak Bay was our destination, and so, holding old Lin Ting on the south, we gallantly ran down for our anchoring ground. As it was only mid- day when we reached our journey's end, it was universally asireed that tiffin should be served before we commenced operations. The word of command was rapidly passed fonvard, and almost as quickly was served under the awn- ing upon the flush deck one of those sumptuous meals for which the Orient is justly celebrated. Curry, that stand- ing and incomparable dish ; pillaw, cold mc^.<.?,,pdtc dcfoie gras, &c. &c. forming no inconsiderable portion ; and if our provender was good, no less were the liquids — ruby claret, sparkling Moselle and old Otard or United Vine- yards' brandy, were in profusion. However, one drink stood paramount, and I can confidently recommend it as worthy of the votaries of Diana, viz. Moselle and .soda- w^ater. We all thought so, and many were the pear- shaped gentry that disgorged their effervescing contents to gratify our fastidious tastes. After feeling the inward man refreshed, #e disembarked, and soon stood on terra firma, longing to commence the anticipated sport. Doe I if i 1 68 All Round Ihc IVorld. and^cTa setter and pointer, were selected for o.v dMU .nd Sancho, a youn, liver-coloured l-nter a J.csen from my friend, I determined to take, for he be cfit he would receive from the example of lus well-broken com ;rl. The .round we were about to shoot^crvvas undulating and grassy, there be.ng no ^f^J-^^^ le hiimediate vicinity, save the old Peak, from w h ch the p la e akes its nLe. A good deal of the v.cn.ty had £m rcviously cultivated, but from unproduct.veness or ot;:r':auses, las now neglected still, the d.nnn^.ve stone fences which characterise th.s country ma. d and the intricate covering of briars and ^^ccpcrs, h cl almost hid them from view, was found a ^^-^^^^^^ and resting-place of our quarry. Among the varcties ot Tam^- which we expected to find were the lordly p easa fefulgent in gorgeous plumage. He ,s '"d'ge.^u^ t th. locamy, where he grows to a much greatei s./x han 1 lave ^-er seen him elsewhere, weighing .frequent yibu. pounds and a half, and sometimes even more. I kdled a cock in the Shangmoon Valley, not over ten -les from our present beat, which handsomely turned do.n he scale at five and a half. Still, these birds arc not very abundant here, this Qocality being scar:ely far eijougU inland, where the covers are more extensive and better suited for their propagation. Frankolin, however, are here tolerably numerous, few days passing without a dozen u. more faUing to the sportsman's aim. They are larger than the partridge of England, lie remarkably close, and when flushed, beat all .he game birds put together in the velocity of their flight. To be successful, you must shoot quick, and cover them well, as they will carry h( sc a bi lo la tl hi is cr S(. ir w b; ai SI h, ai A w ',V as si '"Wi S /looting near I long Kong. 169 ;d for oi'i dcbiU, inter, a present )r tlie benefit he ell-bruken com- :) shoot over was lii^rh land in the from which the the vicinity had iroductiveness, or the diminutive )untry remained, 1 creepers, which I frequent shelter ig the varieties of c lordly pheasant, indigenous to this •eater size than I ig frequently four :n more. I killed /er ten miles from turned down the airds arc not very ar:ely far enough tensive and better 1, however, a re here ,vithout a dozen or hey are larger than ■kably close, and, put together in the ce^sful, you must IS they will carry off as much lead as a wild goose. Then the quail — the little mi;4ratory darlings — if you only chance to hit the time of their arrival, they will give you as much popping to do as can be stood up to. In Malta, on the coast of Spain, and among the Greek islands, I have enjoyed some splendid sport with them, and made wondrous bags, but here in Southern China they are ten to one in compari- son of numbers. Don't be impatient. I have not com- pleted my list. Snipe — the idol of the shooter — also abound. Can any one tell to what land the bird is a stranger .' Here there are two species — the common bird, so numerous in Ireland, and the painted species, larger than the former, more beautiful in plumage, but lacking the velocity of (light ; and last, though not least, the delicacy of flavour after passing through the cook's hands. Then as to the web-footed gentry, their name is legion, and their varieties are without number. Peli- cans, geese, mallard, widgeon, and teal, being frequently seen in such hordes that the water is ob.scured. If you imagine that 1 am romancing, you have .jut in the winter to take a trip up the Broadway running from the back of Macao to Canton. Defer your opinion till then, and I fear not the result. There is but one place where such a sight can be .seen, as well as in China, and if you have time and means, place yourself upon Ihe margin of any of the numerous sloughs in the western prairies of America, a little after sunset, late in autumn, when the weather from appearances promises a rapid approach of 'vinter, and I presume to predict, if you should live to the age of Ml LhusehHh, and have true sj)orting proclivities, the sight you will then witness never can be forgotten. But to All Round till' ii'orld. '7° I 1 r ^..viU-footcd 'voiiK'ii aiul tails ; ixtum to the land of Mn.u lootu „:,don,, if you go -ff''■r'''^;:;:;t" i " a si>.' ^t „i.l,o„l seeing 'If ■.••;"'' ,"7'" ^f„/K,:. u nun,t.« ,„„„ ^ , "" "--^- / ,; „,,^,, o^, mo,. ,h.o, ,,rc to be f"im I turned to account by slippinj,^ an ICley p;recn cartridge into each barrel, having taken care to avail myself of thi; friendly shelter of some brusii. As the mob advance ' ' ..pon him, deeming his safet)' imperilled, he cro -v.d tlu brook and offered me as beautiful a side shot, at thirty-five yards, as the most fastidious could desire. Simultaneously with the report his graceful form bit the dust, and I had the satisfaction t)f forwauling to the garrison as magnificent a piece of venison as ever graced a main ;any tabic. Hut to return to our friends, who arc doubtlessly im- patiently vaiting to comnu.xe work. The dogs were thrown off, and but little time was h)st before we had evidence that the quail had arrived. Die was the first to stand, and no sooner had she assumed her rigid posi- tion than both Doe and Sancho backed. S( ni a bird was on the wing, and as rapidly cut dt)wn. More than an hour passed, with little oth< r diversity than when bad shooting was made, and the luckless traveller would run the gauntlet of our crowd; many a good-natured joke and happy salvo of wit greeted the "wiping of each other's eyes," and our attjndant coolies commenced to groan under replenished game-bags. What is there more delightful than a party of happy friends meeting to enjoy the paramount pleasure of a day's shooting } A person of great literary talent once wrote thai the chase has a striking resemblance to wai ; for m>- part I All Rcuudtlic World pn,-ramnK-. 1 have hcuii m.my , venomous ^'-''-1"f %"'u"'°mtf\:an "t ;::t' ..d, .u.- scrcech of tlK »l'dl. liah. n-a _,^^^^g, -'"'■ ^r::':mT.vc !,:M..vo.co,,,o. .CO.- tlum my fellows, still. I ^ scattered querabk dislike to witness bra.ns ^^'^ ,v.e around, or a disH^uvcd. 'nanm^^ .J^^^^ '^ 1 ranks, perhaps of one - -*;^^^tre th^dogs about. ^"^•^^^""^f:;:Stsrn;:i:iS-eareci^^^ stainl.iiB .'!<>■""•" ' u.-i.-lion! Good Jogs! never a feather cai. wc see. llc„ i„j„ee.,.cnts Not a stc„ «iU ;l-y :""::V.,/„ ^f„„,„rtri,lgc.•• „„■t ...ake tl,e.,. ».'-"" '' "^.u, experience earned exclaimsourvc.eranl^ c. pre _P_^^ ^_^,^_,^^, „^^ """ """'s:i,r;;otl,i.° flu od; ca* tuft of sra.. . cannies. btiU notnin j^j^ ^^,,^,blc kicked; back and forth we ^^^':^^ ^^ , uttle of the noise of an old --k-P^^casan . an ^,^^^^^_ the rapid action of ^^^^^^^Z' ^^'^^6. ; ban, ! Uolin rushes, on rapid -"5 , o^J^ ^.^ ^^,, ,,,, . the bang! speak the guns, and '^^^J^ ^^ ^^, ^en. and less-experienced ^^-"^ --- ;' ^^^'^^ ,^ ,he unfor- our veteran l--^-.^^^^^ ^f, ^ ^^fof omerslults ere the tunate victim turnmg a -^-^^^\^^^,^, adly retarded, velocity with wh.ch he wa gom ^^_^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ I never yet knew a nov.cc ^"^^^^"^ -^ ,„ rapid. UiU this description oi g'-^^-' ^^^^ ; " ,^ great, and the the rumpus they make o" taking vn, . .^ ^^^^^.^^ ^^^ whole performance so sudden, that ty \\ without fcclinii liivition "f the lal they '^'loricd ;ki:il, vcliomovis icvc such stulc- th less courage •come ;in uiicon- bU)Otl scatteieil \ drop from tlie , myself to go the dogs about, 1 we are close up, „^i C,(v,)d dogs' our inducements for a partridge ! " :xpcriencc warned nber headed the 1 tuft of grass is ,^ birr, with double id with a little of rrine, Master Vran- ilnv abode ; bang ! ; is cut down ; the bird like men, and f a heap, the unfor- somersaults ere the :amc fully retarded, n his first effort to ir flight is so rapid, ng so great, and the the tyro is certain to IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / O o 7 ^ ^ r /. ^ C/i {/. m 1.0 I.I 1.25 '- IIIIIM IIIIM 1^ lU 1 2.2 I^ 1^ Hi 2.0 I. I- . b.ui. 1.8 U III 1.6 V 1 07'i, ^ . CM' 4^ * > Photographic Sciences Corporation \ (v ^9) V ^ :\ \ ^^ iff' ^ 6^ # 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 Lpped on the edge of a slope densely covered with dwarf brushwood, principally com- posed of the beautifully brilliant azalia which grows ?i 174 All Round the World. here in the greatest profusion wherever the soil is moist. I cannot say I was surprised, for an internal whispering had told me what to expect. A brace of pheasants took wing, several misses were made, but the duo were knocked down ; one quivered on the grassy open, while the other fell in the underbrush. The services of Doe were brought into requisition, and after losing a quarter of an hour, we were compelled to retire with only one bird. However, Doe was not satisfied, and he remained behind to make a final effort for the recovery of the wounded game, while we continued our work ; in little more than ten minutes the sagacious dog joined us, triumphantly bearing the wounded bird, and so little was he injured by the setter's teeth that he made several abortive efforts to escape before he was safely deposited in the game-bag. That night, on count- ing our spoil, we found three pheasants, nine partridges, and almost a hundred quails— pretty good shooting, I think, you will agree, for four guns during an after- noon. Drifliug to Death. ns rever the soil is d, for an internal pcct. A brace of ere made, but the red on the grassy underbrush. The :juisition, and after :ompelled to retire was not satisfied, final effort for the we continued our ; the sagacious dog »vounded bird, and ter's teeth that he ;ape before he was liat night, on count- nts, nine partridges, y good shooting, I is during an after- CHAPTER XXII. DRIFTING TO DEATH. T T is well known that a .swimmer may incur consider- i- able danger by bathing in the presence of a faith- ful dog, because the instinct of these animals cau.ses them to believe their master is in peril, and by mis- dn-ectcd efTorts, instead of saving, they complete the catastrophe they wish to avert. Such a misadventure once occurred to me. and as the circumstances were peculiar, the narration of the same may not be without interest. While in China, on returning from drill in the after- noon, my house-boy informed me that a coolie had just arrived from Shangmoon side, and that both snipe and quail had arrived in considerable numbers. Such a chance for a day's sport was not to be disregarded ■ so hurrymg over to the colonel's, I got the requisite permis- sion to absent myself for a day. At the Club House I mustered a couple of com- panions, neither of whom I had ever been with before. All Round Ihc World. but -is they bore tl,o reputation of being good sportsmen ' d r'l .hots, I Js only too glad to aceopt the, ocle y Soon all preliminary arrangements were made : fto dine with them, take a ^;^-'^^^ be up by brea. of ^^^Z T^unt "u t With mv do'is, for 1 li^it* ^ ur^i*-^. ^ ^ \ dinn r The meal passed pleasantly, and a couple of a Is (warm-hearted, ehatty fellows), when the wmc was placed on the table, dropped in and cause U,s ^ d^sre .ard the fleeting hours, till .t was so late that we u, nnta'ously agreed not to go to roost but make a n.gh "rit-no. I v^ry judicious course for those who w.shed to make clean shooting. i r . fu„ Wth daybreak we sallied down to Peddar's wharf ; the wind at the time was gusty, and the appearance of the flecfhtg clouds which scudded overhead ommous of a '"Sow Pirltes' Bay. where we intended landing, was a go^dlix miles off across the channel -l''* ^^d 'l.e 1 „^ nf Hons? Kon^ from the mamland, a poition oi wl-d. isVS i^^clenlation in the land, enclosed on two "^^^^^^^ about, ^ to t.e ca uL of the hour, and all ^vhich we haded cmlly dec "d to undertake our hire ; at length, after cons.dcr^ able delay, a more adventurous craft came past, and after a iftle pressing and abundant promises of cum- shaw sh was backed alongside, and we seated ourselves tZ tern sheets, which were covered over w.th mattn.g. to protect passengers from the sun's rays. _ Before going further, it may be well to state that there l ct rrood sportsmen d to accopt their nicnts were made ; fterwards so as to r ready for a start. :, I turned up for •, and a couple of s), when the wine and caused us to IS so late that we t but make a night r those who wished Pcddar's wharf; the ; appearance of the ncad ominous of a ided landing, vvas a 1 which severed the inland, a portion of md, enclosed on two ibout, owing to the ch we hailed civilly :ngth, after considcr- raft came past, and .nt promises of cum- 1 we seated ourselves ed over with matting, 3 rays, ell to state that there Dnfling to Death. 1 1 arc no better boatmen in the world than the Chinese ; the aquatic residents on that coast are at it from tlieir infancy, and w hen tiie)- cannot go under canvas, luiro- l)eans Jiad better tak-e warning and d(/use their sails also. Well, we got on for a mile or two safely enough ; a few- small seas came over u.s, but more capable from their magnitude of damping our guns than our ardour ; so forward fir our destination we pushed, close-hauled occasional!)', when tiie squalls freshened too much, luffing up a little closer to the wind. Our boat was a stiff, weatherly craft, and with her reduced sail, and the comparatively smooth water that surrounded us, we had nothing to fear ; but some persons will be fastidious— dirty particular, as a friend of mine used to saj' ; so what should one of my friends do but insist on steering, because a few sprays had dam])ed his well-trimmed and much-loved Vvhiskers. Now these appendages were his treasures, his first thought in the uKjrning, his last at night, and possibly received many a furtive glance during the day, whenever he chanced to be ill the vicinity of a glas.s. It was of no use attempt- ing to dissuade him from his resolution ; all the argu- ments I could use to the contrary were thrown away ; further ojjposition on my part I felt would lead to a rupture, so sooner than such should take place, I tacitly gave my consent for him to take the tiller-lines, the cox- swain's seat, and become our Palinurus. 'I his change of steersmen was soon effected, and from the time it took place the gusts of wind appeared to freshen. For fifteen or twent}- minutes we did well enough, at length a harder squall than had previously 178 All Round the IVoHd. bco.1 experienced threw us ulnv.st on nur hcun-ends. " I uff !•• was the word, and luff it was. till so nu.ch luffing ^,,; done that <.n ri^htin:^ to an even kcc . the boat ..ibed, and bcin^^ trinuued so as to sa. on Ik- ack we had pursued, the craft turned her keel to the heave s and we went out fn.n under the aw.un, u. what 1 fishes must have considered a nu.st un;.naceful and hiLdily-hidicrous manner. , , • ... ,.f On comin, to the surface and wiping the brme out of „,y eyes I .-.s Rrabbed by the shoulder by our would-be helm man. the one who had placed us m our present p^came^t. and. worse than all. he could not swm^^^^ would he leave ,o his hold. Ar.nn.ent and remonstra c were useless, shake him off I could not. self.sh enou-^h Zuldhavebeentotryit;butadrownm,manwd arasp at a straw, and certainly from my pe.sonal ex ^:;:Le he will din, to any one that can swm. wh.^ he causes his destruction or not ; so ceasmo- to exhaust n ys by remonstrance. I struck out and ^.uned the ,un- Z. of the topsy-turvy boat, n.y .-iend cli.|R.^ to - as ti.htly as ev. r did the old man of the -^-^'-^ ^o huKllad ^Xt the time this catastrophe happened, the t.dc .as , ..nc\ there we were, for all mana-cd to reach runnmt^ out, and tneie we \veiL. i i , .u.,u with the boat, h,.ngi„R o„ to our rcvcscd cocklc-sh 11, „,y dogs swimn-inR romul about, every no« a„cl t re, ", yiuB me a visit, with tbe iu.eutiou ev.dently markec ■ tl,dr eounteuauces, ofaskiug hov,' I was, and w h tl. I recuired their assistanec. liu. here our trouble drf not cca.e, too many of u, elung to the same s.de of the bolt pla ing more%vei,d,t on it than on the otljcr, and Xn au unusually high sea would sweep past, d.e boat Drifting to Death. '79 (lur hoani-ciids. 1 so imich luffint; 1 kc'cl, ihc V)o;it , on tlu' tack \vc I to the hc.ivcns, iiinil ill what the ; iiiv^raccful and T the brhic out of I- by our would-be .IS in our present )uld nnc, but all a,>iH;uv.l to .al.om uX the same conviction, nor did wch.s,t,act.,c,.nvc> lconvicti.,n to one another. ^^^^ ^'^^^'^^^'^'^^ unenviable. n.r.e were driftin, out to sea beo a. tide, and the only pn-spect before us. uiks . J^. should heave in si,dU. of cutlivin, one anotho, depended on the amount of vitality each possessed. Landmarks uhieh I well knew ,luled past • • ' ^ ' farther our temporary support dr.fted on; st.ll n .if came to our aid. and truly we felt that we were a o e o^^ L bosom of the waters. ^^ '^^^ ^^^ t^J^rl: not he who had steered, spoke in ser.ous wouls U e were to the elYeet that his strength was ^;-^'^^'''''^^,^ that in a few minv.tes he must relax his hold. 1_ beR^ed ' i ., ,., do so ; I entreated him to shosv h.s pluck ren le-d bin. of his wife and children, and how they :^;:::^ on him ..r their support. ^^^^^^ thJir effect, for still he dun, to the wreck. ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ been in this predicament over two lunus. nMiui a Uime c ^;;; hove insight. Closer and closer_itappro..d.^^ l.noth scarcely a hundred yards d.v.ded "^. ^^ ^" J ,.cnt her helm and off she stood upon --the t ck ahke disregarding our shout, and s.,naR My a hopes vanished with her. 1 felt convinced that s : J. ,.r..rmin, my last expl.t An ^v .^^ less Cdestials, whom I was suie haU seen u , Ihd, UKUcr trnvmcls m^clf »ncl compan.ons, I ,u,rlcc, ■I Am> and licartfclt anathema after tliim. ' or last hopes appeared to fade out -th the ju k farther and farther she receded from us ; at .^^"'^th her 1 disappeared, and nought but the mat sa.ls could be T Dn/n'no^ to Death. iSi )c;uv*l to labour (jsit.ilc to convey )silion was truly ,ca bcfoiv a vapid IS, unk-ss a sliip mother, depended ;d. past ; fartlu T and on ; still no craft we were alone ;in :ine of our party, i words ; the>' were i'4 \va> , and he felt s'^hold. 1 IhU'^:^-^^ to show his pluck, •en. and how they IMy enUeaties had cU". \\'>-' nuist have irs, when a Chinese ■ it approached, at /ided us, when up ipon another tack, si<,nials. My last ivniced that I was ncl when the heart- ad seen us, turned mpanions, I hurled them. out with the junk ; 1 us ; at length her - mat sails could be seen to mark Iicr existence. Ajrain and a^^'ain I tried to reanimate luy companions, no easy task, f.>i both ap- peared to h.ive lo.st hope, and with it the desire of con- tiiiuinjr existence. My last effort had been made; supiylicatioiis and entreaties were e.\hausted ; I believed moment.irily that one or both would have reia.ved their hold, to cuter eternity, for the urdeal was a severe trial of endurance, and one was f.ir from bein^' strong', the otiier without any know!ed|j;e of the art of swimming,'. A.S sea after sea broke over us— and with the passat^e of time tliey were becomini,' lar^'er as we drifted fartlier from lanil— my d();_js required more constant attention ; scarcely would they be iilaced in the boat, restinjr on the seats, when a more an!j;ry wave than its predecessor would carry them beyond us ; anu they, poor creatures ! would invariably swim back to me for help. Aj;ain and a.nfain this had been repeated, and I had almost ceased to feel capable of placincf them in the submerfjcd boat, when, as we drifted by a point of land, the ex- treme end of a diminutive island, a square-ri,t;t,n;d siiip, studding sails set, with her stem pointed at us, liove in slight. With eyes strained almost to burstinc^, all qazcd upon her ; with over-taxed hopes, all prayed that she mit,dit not t^o by us: on — on — she came, stately with her majestic spars. ]?ut, alas ! she veered to the right, and if she continued her present course, she would probably pass more than a mile from us. If the decks were deserted, if the watch were not on the alert, it was quite possible we might drift past unobserved. At length we were abreast of this vessel— no indication on her decks l82 All RouiuHhc World. told V.S that her occupants were aware of our vicinity -what was to be dune to attract attcnlu.n ? Lach u his turn raised hi.nsclf and shoutal ; but the weak am .vorn-out vices never reached the.r dest.na u.n. At cn^th one of the Chinese boatn,en chvested lu,nsel hisc.uter Kavnient ; he waved it in the wn.l. and just a • hopes'of succour were dyin, out. a boat was lowered frc.n the vessel's waist, several seamen sprang >nto he . 1: crc half an h..ur passed, we were all. do,s ukUkL-c on board the ' h-lyin-. Mist.' on her passage from Sa K ancisco to lion, Kon,. At the gangway the capta Lt us ; he was just such a man as .t was desn-able to come in contact with under such circun.slances-hosp.- tality occupied a large part of his big heart. // 'ild Ihtik Shoot ins;. >«} of our vicinity iliDii ? I'-acli in t the weak and cstination. At L'Slcd liinisclf nf inil, and just as »oat was lowered sprantr into her, 11, iloj^'s inchided, issat;c frtini San 4\vay tlie captain was dcsiruhle to instances— hospi- eart. CIIAI'TICR XXIII. NV I I. I) 1) I (■ K S II OOT I N (_i. A MONTI i or more after the shooting,' incidents last i V narrated, after the manner of ardent devotees of the chase, when the ladies hail left the table, and we had conceiitratetl the sundry decanters at one end of the board, and lit, from the ever-i_L;iiilcil, smonlderinLr joss-stick, our inimitable ci^'ars of thv' brand of Contrabandistas, the most fra{,M-ant of all Manillas, conversation turned upon our mutual hobby. Lonfj shots ami short ones, heavy baji;s, stranije adventures and shootini^ companions, were all discussed ; cvcii the relative merits of rcsi)ective ^fun- inakers fell in for their share of criticism, and so the hai)py hours fled with rapid stride, and even after the obsequious, trim-clad Chinese lad had .several times announced that the ladies expected us for tea in the drawing-room, our topic had not become worn out ; although courtesy demanded our compliance. I lowever, I fear that we were far from gallant companions, for soon after imbibing the cup that cheers but not inebriates, we m 184. All Round the World. „acl. our exit for the wcU-sheltered verandah to loll ^iu/luxury in tlKU per^ctlon of la.y l^r..s lounj^ loblolly clKurs. ..th which every Se"tlen,a . hou H„U1 in that warm climate is numerously ^yf^^-^^ the increase of coolin, draughts, warmer ^ ^^"^^ till at length we had detlnitely arranged U.a next c a - weather propitious, we would start for D.cp ha> d Int abo^ tlirty miles, to wa,e ..r upon t - mu,u^ ducks and geese which generally frequented that nu.^h bourhood at this season of the year. Now, this trip was a hazarclous --^^ -^-"^^ ^"^ recruits had to be beaten up for ,n --^^^^^^ stren.nh, and a jaunt in any dn-ect.on exeeedmg a f e v mile^'wis always extremely dangerous, and even me so than usual at this period, for a P-"-- ^^ ^ hundred dollars was on each ^--1-ansh.adU.t could be sent to the Chinese government. Still, xxlat ^^.ll a spo tsman not risk rather than be debarred the enjoy- Tnt of his ..vourite pleasure - IJ^ly risn.g. uncomfo^ '.ble quarters, exposure to wet and storm, are all smded t^^^ the luxurious couch, the han somely furnished chamber and recherche table, are often, for a neriod, temporarily foregone. , , , , ,, ^ As my good old friend and companion had a deserved reputation for his success and knowledge of the haunts and habits of game, he had no trouble jn procuring recruits ; so that on the morrow, when, at the appou.t d ting ime, I arrived at our place of rendezvous, two old f iends Were already -n the ground, amid a pde of wme- a OS boxes of potte ' meats and vegetables, gun-cases, and ku the etceteras of a sportsman's paraphernalia. c s V fl r s n e a k C r< n tl 1' Ji' t>' w "1 a.' n: a U'lld Duck S/iooiimr. 185 irandah, to loll crs( Ills' Kiungos, Icina.'.'s housc- supplictl. With c^ot (lur theme, tJK'.t next day, U'jcp Bay, dis- in the numc'-ous itcd that wc\'j\\- ndertakin;^. and umbers there is cxceedini; a few , ami even more -cminm of three ; head that could itill, what will a )arred the enjoy- risin;.;, uncomfort- m, are all smiled the handsomely , are often, for a on had a deserved IsTc of the haunts ible in procuring; I, at the appointed jndezvous, two old nid a pile of winc- ctablcs, gun-cases, n's paraphernalia. discussing the prospects, and anticipating with pleasure the deeds of prowess we were ab )ut to perform. Soon we were all— four in number— transferred on board the clipper-built ' Lorcha,' and as her crew shook out her immense matting sail, the wind laid her over, the smooth water splitting before her sharp bow, and bearing us forward for our proposed destination, as soon as head- way was obtained, at fuily eight or nine knots per hour. Lounging on the deck in every attitude of rejjose, enjoying the balmy breeze and beautiful scenery that surrounded us. we quickly gain the Capsheemoon Pass, where the panorama, beautiful before, even improves ; for countless are tlie rugged mountain-peaks and nume- rous the islands that form the background of the land- scape, while innumerable craft of every size, shape, and nationality, glide swiftly by in close proximity, good evidence of the immense carrying trade of the interesting and strange inhabitants of this far-distant and little- known land. An old and favourite shooting resort, Castle Peak, bears on the right ; while Linting, once the rendezvous of fleets of wealthy East Indiamen, looms ruggedly on the left, now long deserted and divested of the busy bustle of commerce for the safer anchorage and pleasanter island of Hong Kong. On, on wc glide, with little change, save additional motion, for w- are gradually gaining open, unsheltered water, till the skilful pilot deems we have made sufficient offing, alters our course, and bears up for Deep Bay, which, by the way, is very shallow as far as depth of water is concerned, and must have gained its name from the great distance it runs inland. With a good breeze upon our beam, we lay ovc* to port, and i86 All Round the World. rapidly d.,-w in upon the shore, our s.ul level as a flat board till scattered villages and numerous l^f^-^^'^^ t^, bespeaking the abundance of PopuUfon -^ ,,tirin, energy of the industrious nat.ve. Ch mcsc viUi.^es are generally very picturesque, the style ot ar lutect re quaint and pretty, uhilc the situations arc : wa^adinind.ly chosen to please the eye, l^av.n,^bu^ .ncc of scattered shade-trees and wood around. W hich ^^clls not well ren.en.ber the old wiU^^--^ (-hini ware once so popular and universal ? What child J;::r ^cd with lond. -d^tonishin.. .q^n ^ bad perspective and curious details? ^cvelthc ess, nli 1' dowance for all its faults, it ha-^-^^^^j r cmblanee to many a celestial homestead I have v. ited Tmy lengthened sojourn in that densely populated " nl^n, advanced as far as navigation would permit at the then state of the tide, we grounded on an oyste bank here we were compulsorily detained for sevei.1 hour; and as the day was now too far advanced to commen e work, cigars an.' other etceteras, with the additonal accompaniments of pleasant companionship dtd ot cause us to regret the detention, and swiftly passed the hours, time being enlivened with many a Sy song or sparkling joke, racy anecdote, or remi- niscence of far-distant homes. On rising before the sun on the morrow, we found ou crew had not been idle, for we had j^^vanced en o twelve miles farther, and were now safely moo ed in the channel of a considerab- river which flowed through h CO tre of a large rushy mar.h, intersected in every in po all th nil wc bo wc Bi in( wa wc JVild Duck S/iooiiue: lb-/ level as a flat us paddy-fiekls jopul.'.tion and Lives. Chinese e, the style of ic situations are ye, having abun- around. Which illow-pattern on ial ? What child shmcnt upon its } Nevertheless, las a marvellous cad I have visited Icnsely populated \ would permit at led on an oyster tained for several far advanced to Lceteras, with the lit companionship, ntion, and swiftly [led with many a anecdote, or remi- rrow, we found our 1 advanced ten or ifely moored in the ch flowed through ntcrsected in e>-ery direction by watercourses ; in truth, just such surround- ings as a duck-shoutcr would choose, and as we supped our morning cup of coffee in the twilight, flight after flight of the web-footed gentry whistled by, intent with preoccupied thoughts, and consequently fearless of dan- ger, to gain some oozy nuid-bank or sheltered feeding- ground. After a consultation, it was decided that wc should separate, two of our party going up stream, the remainder down ; and as I and my worthy friend, the projector of this escapade, were assigned to each other's companion- ship, we soon crossed the bulwarks and seated ourselves in our skiff, behind four stout Chinamen, whose sinewy arms made the well-seasoned ash oars bend under their muscular exertions, while our stem was pointed for the more open water. It would scarcely be fair to neglect to mention a very important personage who accompanied us, viz. a French poodle, who, in our estimation, and in the cstimatior: of all who knew her, was supposed to know more than all the dogs of her day. This animal was an untiring swim- mer, up to every trick, and comprehended almost every word that was said to her ; still she was ladylike in being fond of having her own way, and even occasionally would display a most provoking amount of obstinacy. But being well acquainted with her peculiarities, I was induced to take her, as we were without a retriever, for 1 was aware that, if the spirit moved her propitiously, she would make herself most useful. As we proceeded rapidl)' down the stream, with a favourable tide, sundry shots were obtained and several single birds were picked it I *::! All Round the World. i i88 c „ «l,,. well-known establishment o\ \^^^< gau-c, frc.m the ^^U1 .^^ j^ u i^to' play. o„ "PP'-'*v. t..e -- ; ; -;;^;: ^a^:' o. cL.„= for t,,. '^^xr.Jsi coloured plumage as if fiom a mu , remembrances of the appearance of a " -i' ^^ - 1 . A^ teal in these waters are seldom wary, no plover. As teal m uie. The only caution bv yard c steadily advanced till but sixty u.tervene . a'd the ducks, which had previously ahghted nu - cated symptom; that our presence was disagreeable D. pi tee hi' gun. and two reports followed with h tie h erv 1 the f^rst shower of shot being dehvered whi e Tblliilsted, the second as they hu^iedbj^r^^^ quit so dangero.. a neighbourhood. The ^^^^^ ?hat thirty-two plump beauties were bagged, with .^ east a fourth more disabled, which were un ortunatdy OS a termination which too frequently follows long It.; fr m large guns. The bar which we had now ached appeared a favourite resting-place for wild fowl, a f( J a Ci o C O' ai i;i n" w a.' hi hi of tn 111 lu w; to oi oa fo nc be Wild Duck SJiooting. lig :r observed had, lion, besides his Ic barrel of six ent of Kss. ^^"'^ 1 results at long :essfully bringing re open water, a ing over a mud- n expectation \vc regiment. Again I and descended ^{{ their metallic- •or, and recalling I flight of golden seldom wary, no The only caution lay on their oars Y, which, with the us forward. Yard t sixty intervened, sly alighted, indi- s disagreeable. D. oUowcd with little ing delivered while • iiurriedly rose to The result was [•c bagged, with at were unfortunately uently follows long .vhich we had now -place for wild fowl, and in little ovir an hour more tlian a dozen of the web- footed genus were added to our already extensive bag. However, as day ad\anced, the game became more wary, and we conset^uently determined to go on a voyage of dis- covery ill (juest of fresh scenes and less-watchful ducks. The tide was now out, and as we glided along the shore of numerous slobby mud-banks, we observed .sundry Chinamen gathering shell-fi.sh over the treacherous, oozy surface. Their manner of jn-ogression was novel and curious. I'.ach searcher had an apparatus like a large hand-sleigh, with an upright at the back extre- mity, on which he leaned his chest, propelling the vehicle with hi.s feet in rear. >.\)r was this all. Ducks and geese, which were feeding in tliousand.s on these slippery banks, did not appear in the least to regard the presence of John Chinaman, while plying his avocation ; long association, previous security and uninterruption, had gained these \\ary birds' confidence, and with simply a flutter or quack, they cleared the i)ath for the shell-fish hunter to progress. No man v.ith the smallest amount of invention could fail to turn such a discovery as this to advantage. D. had been a sailor, and well knew all the intricacies of knots and spliees ; a couple of these hand-sleighs lashed together, with a scat between them, was all that was requisite, but to make the trial less liable to failure it was better still for the gunner tt) don the outer raiment of a native. I laving consulted one of our oarsmen, who spoke our lingo, we made arrangements for opening negotiations for the temporary use of these novel machines, and quickly had a couple alongside our boat. With many an intricate and skilfully devised knot, All Round the IVorld. 190 brace and countcr-bracc, the construction was fabricated ; '; friend had already put one of the boatmen s common garments over his own-no easy matter fc^ he . a o y^ Fn truth very portly, though short m stature-and u .th s redoubtable heavy gun. he determu.ed on mak.ng the first essay. Before starting, however, an add.t.ona the nisi es.ay ^^ gj^ improvement was suggested, mz. • -i stooi on which was received with approval, reneued ties and S^hts being placed around its legs to keep 't fij- - ^ proper place. Never shall I forget, to the last lay I 1 ve d 'imposing appearance of my companion, as he s arted w^th almile^of satisfaction on his lip. and an '"Junctu^n to „.e not to let the cat out of the bag when we got home^ as the escapade coald be repeated on the m " ,:7,,,,, the to the 'Luicha. UKU i „,^.^,..i,tiessncss. and in a of sympatliy, cUs.nustcd at m> lent ' ^.^,,^_ b..d tcnn>er with his own lack '^ ^;' '^^ ^^.,.^^^j^ ,i„ brooded over his n-A>.-tuncs ju. m s d ^ .^ _^ ^^^ ^^^^^-^''^^TTr::rl-^^nrl.c seen on deck, wcapproached.thecialt fro,u the foreign P'^^"''-/''^'^^^ .''^^^,, "l ,-n a bUn.k the best chances of makin, a successful ;l^*^^-- ;^^^ a vaent uci(iii^i"i-, ' fu; -..c/> m-w on • f ,, AI-,rio with none but her Chu.jse tiew ;ZJtKb-:ptu,-ea. all the hands 1.11^ ;. the craft run ashore, pilla^^cd a-nl stripped of hu one. the "^'[[ ; ^^.rtion had been n.ade by copper ; and. althou^n every ^^^^_^ the ..nmboats. the marauders vere st. 1 ^' '''-^ . beU^^cd to reside in this -'f °f ^'^^^^ ;:^:;; ' 4it T il li«,;ht, still oil it" sLM-ii-barbur- 1k: eyes of all, r;icl niatcrially lalor bt-' ""^ *'f ;is bccii a blank , al)baerable ch. "^^^ ^^^^ ^ ,,^^,,. ^.,^ ^^„, ,, "^"'''^^'n'f'utt^-lcter. sharp .^ observable fall in the in ^^,,^^^.^ ^^^,„^, 1'-^-^-, ''T l^h t:^ p ii- ^a . .orK. pre^rred well pleased Nv.th then ^^,f .^..-ted downwards, their former beat ; so . • ^^,^^ ^^^^ ^,,,r rorthebanl ^^^^ ^^^^^,,^ -^^"^'"'^r'S' in t^scious security. Nor ,ad dressing the.r f-^the s i ^^^ ^^^^ , ^^.^^^ aid they appear to re,:u d ou. pu^ -.^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^j^,. ,hose closest to "^'^ ^y'X!,^;^ far-dista.U northe,. tbeir win,s. ^^^^^"f^ Lnoor, or others of the haunts upon the banks • I'iratcs. U'iltUhid- S/iootiiii:. 'M7 iUi:illy i)aiil off x\ view. I'l'"'" i,imii.i's <'f t'^*-" .(, a coMcUisii'U .t, bill our ciesv ,Uil hillaloons.* b.uiishcil ^'let'i), , make a nit^ht iher visit, »'r to i^r. Hcforc ilay upon the wint,'. en place in the fcelini^s and an rp work wart cx- the water bein^ ; Nvnrk, prefeireil .rtcd downwarils, the teal. On our jcns at the most UhoiiU^i ^^'^y ^^'^"^ hurried past, but the probable diffi- cd from shooting, at severed us from •cwarded, for thou- iid beach, pluming ous security. Nor ncc, for inan>', and their heads under far-distant northern or, or others of the numerous rivers that pursue tlieir si.Iitary course thn»U',;h the sparsely pnixiiateil plain-; of Liberia tnwards the Arctic seas. (irtlin;.j <,'i)(id \\a\' nii uur Ixiat, the oars were unsliipped, .iiul a preconcerted si^nial a^^recd upon for opening' fh'e. I-'oot !)>■ foot we stcailily approached, till but ihirty-five p.icrs intervened, ulu'H e.icli aiming; low, our two rii^dit-hantl barrels responded to the pres- sure on the trii^'Ljer, cutlin;^f a lane through the luieon- .scious l)ro,ul bills, ;ind a-, llv)' rose, almost with llie voice of thunder, oil' the w.iler, each lel't-h.iiul b.urel repeatet! the performance, brint^'iii^^ down in all .ittitudes maimetl and wounded. Over thirty birds fell to this fusilade, and ;inion;,j their numbers was to be found almost every variety, from the handsome pluma'^ed wiilLV'on .and teal to the lar^'er mallard. IC\cei)t on /Xmerican prairies, in autunm .md spl•in|^^ at the periods of mi^fration, 1 know of no [)lace where such fuie iluck-shootin^f can be obtaineil as here ; but the preference, even if the numbers shoukl be nuich less, nuist be -riven to America, for few of our race can C(jntinue to breathe the noxious miasmas that niL;hl and mornin;4 arise from the paddN'-l'ields without his consti- tution and health becomin;j[ seriously impaired. In fact, two of the ^fenllemen who then shot with me fomul pre- mature graves, and in each instance their medical at- tendants arfnnied that they had coiitractetl the disease which had deprived them of life by their t(K)-frequent trips in pursuit of their favourite sjjort. Our work commencetl successfully, and how often does a good ih-bi)t tend to make us continue to perform well ; both shot better than usual, and it soon appeared that we had but to point our guns to cut down the swift- iq8 All Round the World. 11 -Wanccd, the bi,* bccan.c „Kn-c » ■>. a' d I adopted a plan »'"* " '•';^ ^^.^.j,,,^ p,easu,c ,„,;„, «'««--;;•>';,. ?;:j:"\v,,ich bad been spit appeared t„ be n a ■- ^_^_^^^ ._^^ ^^^.y_^ ^^ on. „,nre !>""" •"'> '^J' ".', „„„ ececntrieity I tnrned get n, her mo , ^™ ^^ ' „„ ,„„ ^each, Ingging. ,0 advantag . fm Wt he, y ^^^^_^^^^^^ ^^ ^,^^, ^^^ hanhns and ^^ '^'""»- ^^, , „f t,K- duek, for when evidently edited the cu„o> ^^_^_^^_ ^^ . „„y would P--"-^ ^'^ • . ,> ,; .,,, „,|,,t all the fuss qualities were soon ^-"^^^Z""^^; ^^'^^^^^ provided .ith Xcl c-u sc ho sportsman always to shoot at a ha.k I ™ r a barrel and tumbled him over wUh a broken r. n. The poodle was sent to fetch hm. ;^'h1 f ^^ ;^ D' chase ucceeded in collaring the bud. But the ^;;;.^:t didn't see it in the same light, and bravely * A com,non n.tbod in America, and fre,.euUy voy successful. T r that the boat and dismissed t I liavc mcn- into the spirit rhted at the fun ig, and cripples, nore wary, and ihot. However, mirably, id est, reatest pleasure h had been spit st impossible to ntricity I turned e beach, lugging, ■nts of the dog duck, for A\hen bunch together, ivhat all the fuss ithih easy range, itised, till nearly le dog's retrieving [y. A cormorant, md provided with which it can bite I the same feelings shoot at a hawk I )ver with a broken him, and after a ic bird. But the lioht, and bravely o utly very successful. IVild Duck S/ioo/ifio-. 199 resisted ; both wings and bill were brouglit into play, feathers and wool llcw ; tlie dog was determined, and so was tlie bird. A more perfect example of "pull devil pull baker" scarcely could l)e imagined; first one had the ad\-antage, then the other, till .Master Canine suc- ceeded in getting the bird by the neck and triumphantly landed him. But one pill was a dose ; the pooLJle had never previously been so roughly handleil, and all my future efforts ever after failed in making her carry aight that bore feathers. On joining my companion, I found he had done almost as well as myself, for conjoinll)- we coukl number over seventy birds ; and as the sun was getting too powerful to be pleasant, we started for our ' Lorcha," which we soon gained, having the assistance of a favour- able tide and wind. On getting on board, we met our friends, who had also done well, and, as our stock of game was as great as wc could make use of, without a single demur we hoisted anchor and set sail for Hong Kong, which, without accident, we safely reached that evening, in time to enjoy another social evening and fight our battle over again. Persons residing in or visiting Hong Kong can always in winter enjoy a good day's duck-shooting if they take a trip through the Broadway, or Southern passage, which leads up to Canton. So great is the quantity of birds to be found there that I have been uiformed on no less authority than that of a naval officei once serving on that station, that he killed over a hundred birds at one discharge of a small carronade loaded with duck-shot. 200 /ill Round i he World. CHAT'TKR XXIV. l-IRST ULRI'I.K RACE IN JAPAN. u T F T -o the anchor," xvhcn sun- out. b)' a cheery L \-oice. is most nielodious ; and ^^f^^ ^'"^^ words unwelcome. On the occasion to winch I allude hey were not. and as the chain rattled out through the Iwsehole. as if in echoing response to the Commander voice making the ship reverberate from stem to ste.n. I X U-rcTuas not one soul on board that d,d not feel tltk ul. and why? Twenty-four ho-s Prev.ously we had been tossing about off Cape Itsu. m fact betueen >t ; d a cangeroJl archipelago of islands, of whose pecu- dt e^ w^ had no chart, while the wind was ra.su.g tg a rumpus as it is possible ^r it to g..^;|n^ deed blowing a regular typhoon. ---P^ncd by su h torrents of rain as are only known to the v,s>to s of the tZi c. During the day we had passed up from the oXto the inner bay of Yeddo. Previous to th>s tr,. 1 had sworn by the beauty of the Dardanelles, vowed by e grandeur of the Bosphorus ; but al' my previous First ITurdlc Race in yaf>ini. 201 / . a' AX. out. b)' a cheery I ieldoni are the :o which I allude .1 out through the the Commander's \\\ stem to stern, I I that did not feel urs previously we in fact between it Is, of whose pecu- wind was raising r it to get up ; in- ompanied by such the visitors of the issed up from the cvious to this trip, Dardanelles, vowed mt al' my previous expectations, aye, though impressed upon mc by such language as issues from the u-.imatchable Eyron — fell to the ground when I beheld tli ; constantly changing pano- rama of the termination to our voj-age. Can I describe it ? — I will try. The foreground of the picture was comjiosed of the most placid cerulean-blue water, the intermediate of the most variegated and beautiful woodlands, inter- sected by numerous openings, all rejoicing in an a])pa- rently abundant harvest, while superbly magnificent and ever-beauteous Alount Fusiama backed the distance, dis- tinct, but soft in outline, regular in shape, as if the pro- duction of some giant mathematician ; while the sumnn't sides were intersected with frosted rays of silver (the snows remaining from the previous winter), that looked like the airiest and brightest plumes that ever graced the hat of fair lady or gallant general. You may be a wanderer from youth to the age allotted man to live ; yes, you may travel the world from pole to pole, visit every nook, every corner of this earth, and I doubt much whether a more beautcou.s, more grandly magnificent scene can be beheld from shipboard than such as is seen as you pass the narrows that lead into the inner ba \- of Yeddo ! Scarcely had the reverberated echoes of the descending anchor died away when a host of ICuropean visitors arrived on Ixiard ; the majority sought ne^vs. A small clique sought me, and what for .' — to get me to act as clerk of the course, at a proposed race-meeting, the first ever held in Japan, and also to ride a horse. To the finst duty I readily consented, to the second it is possible I should have obje« ted, but when the petitioner All Round the World. 202 g„„cl.l,oaned co„.ul at -";«- ' °"^,Cg l.-ci chosen was only a sl'"'t ».i> "°" „„ „„„e, and, :*:;::s.';hr;".;X^>os,,,aa succeed n. nvk" "suitable place of operations n, no »ays d,s- "l.;^t;;r::rrrui:t--ot.es.is racT;:;:"a';i:a.o Japanese omci^sUept^e^^^^^ ,„,„ i„tn,sion. ^';>^;-;t * e*do^:;e*a; late. into the sports. It m-^nt d performance, when tlK> saddling bcU sound a o.^t^^^^^^^ than a hurdle that in which I was to figure nothm. ics i ^ ..cc..ith about eight flij^jts-narnj^^^^^^^ I had not seen my mount, tilt ^^^^^^ I was assured he was a good one wo o y ^^_^^^ ^^^^ ^^ :::;:::t>:::"ot;"i?:e-barredgateup^^^^^^ First Hurdle Rcuc in Japan. 203 ndcr the instruc- tlicn comniand- ,tcrs, assisted to ;r the destructive rh treachery our truck my opposi- in my power to it is so now, and warmest of kindly residents and the racc-meetinLj had ities, and our kind, :e an officer in the The ground chosen ma; the Japanese It tlie course, and, s, had succeeded in ns in no ways dis- occasion. 5sed off to the satis- ept the ground free .e greatest pleasure 'clock, perhaps later, L- grand performance, g less than a hurdle e. Up to this period :lt no uneasiness, for lio only wanted some lid that with such he jarred gate upwards. The competitors, nine or ten in numl)cr, liad assembled ; their costumes were more varied than picturesque, but still my nag had not put in an appearance. l>elter late than never, -xi length he came, and, O shades of Rosinante, what a brute! not out of condition certainly, but such legs, and as long as if they had been supplied with stilts froni lis I.andiS. Moreover, he was as light in the body and girthing, yes, and more so than any weedy screw that ever looked through a halter at home, while his temper was such that the horse-coolies who led him were kept constantly on the qui vivc. To mount took me several minutes, and I doubt if I should have succeeded but {ox the application of a twitch. I tried a preliminary canter, but found it no go, and inwardly I wished my acquaintance — I won't say what or where. In the meantime I had taken measure of my antagonists ; of one only had I anything to fear ; his mount was far superior to my own ; the remainder I expected would kiss mother earth at the first fence. My conjecture was correct, as the result ])roved. The starter tried to marshal us in line. I had drawn second place from the inside, but to occujiy it was the difficulty. I made one or two attempts, and in dcjing so endangered all I came near, so at last I retired to the rear ; when doing so my steed seemed to think that he had gallantly acquitted himself, and as a reward should be allowed to go home. It was no use my differing in opinion, the Latchfords had not the desired effect ; the more i plied them the harder he backed. He had gut his legs in for the retrograde action and would not exercise them otherwise. At length I got two horse-coolies, each -01 , J!/ Round //ic World. wattles could mako it , but Dy had my d.tcr,„i.-a.lon be. aroa.cd tl ,d 1 „.„uld have rushed him at a '*-■'«;•;'/:; ' , „,„, The flag fell, the "-\!'- " ' ; ;. "'\vell under his the canes over n,y ^"^^ -•-™ t .m-re suffered, the '■t,Coo^tt.'^«''""^"- '""■'• »':^;:.'""''" f 1 ,es at the coolies he followed his compet.to... Howtl^fi t fe„ce thiuued out the aspirants for ...rf „,„:,', beautiful to behold ; only one got over safe, the on: , had >=-i"-'>',-.n>"»a the most a,^e, At the jump . rushed ; ''- -^ ^ ' ;::, ioo. the fore- ":!:": ;: ;;'h^ <>- ' '^ "°- -->■-• -- "- "'=^'1,: ^Uh hand, spur, and whip . got him -er, very mu h I ,1,ink to the brutes surprise, for as soon as ,.11 fou. legs ground was soft-veiy sot*., I may .ay a . w-is croinc with a slack rein, yawmg about like a ship at was gonij^ sviL between his mount s sea, the r,der -;^y-'>- "/;, ° ' „a fourth hurdleswere ;m;e'"b;'Lht:::::fui.y. Thegapldidnottryto SftSSSSff" First Hurdle Race in Japan. ^05 Rosiniintc by the n the fl-- f^li. to / that t'.ieii- biceps ^ o-ct under way. 4n)iiK ^s logs and me so tlioroughly that I beUevc 1 • frisc. jans! bans'- \\'C"t ,. Well under his iiKM-e suffered, the nai; thou<;ht con- jump and a couple i competitorii. c aspirants for turf MIC got over safe, the ost dangerous. At t, and then appeared wever, took the forc- .incd on the obstacle, im over, very much, soon as all four legs :k out into a good power to keep him only remaining an- yards ahead. The y say— and his nag ; about like a ship at between his mount's ,d fourth hurdles were ; gap I did not try to clo.se — to do .so would have smothered any chance I possessed ; therefore I put my trust in rrovidence. and hoped for sejualis. As my antagonist approached the .second last hurdle, I saw him using the steel freely and his horse's tail go up.* lie reached the jump, bungled, and nearly fell over it. My mount was still fresh, for I had kept him well together. This hurdle I got over swimmingly, which I hoped the foe would fail in doing when he came at the last. Providence had so ordained it, for if ever a man came a cropper and made a breach, such was done on this occasion, anil I cantered througli the gap up to the winning-post before my adversar>' had wiped the stars out of his eyes, fi)r he had got such a purl as previous experience had told me generally illu- minated our optics with an extensive \iew of the plane- tary system. I was glad to win the race for two reasons — firstK', that I might hand over to the owner the purse ; and, secondly, that my reputation as a steeplechase rider should nut .suffer in the eyes of a crowd of griffins. * Generally ^n iiuiicnlion of cxli.-iu^tion. 206 All Round the World. CHATTER XXV. T TN^ORTUNATK indeed must be the m.n ^vho has T T N i< O Iv 1 U .N n unalloyed happuicss ! In U no mcmones to rccaU ot > ^^^^^ ^^, ,i,,,rvcs the calendar of my hfc m pa .^ ^ to be marked ^vith a red lettei as in the realms of the Tyc"on • ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ There are few more beaut.ful c^ ^^ ^^ surround the beholder who stands v,^n 1 ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ vessel anchored off ^^^^^^^J^^, Veddo. thickly s,raight line of coas u. ^1- chr t.on ^^^^^^^ wooded almost to the -^^^^;^ " ^'^;^'\.,,idences of the with the clean, neat, and V^^^^^J^ ^„._,„a with inhabitants; to tlK left the coa -h e s c, ^^_^^^ abrupt curve to Yokoham ^ ^^ .^ ^^^.^,^^^„,, foliage, giving a charm to ^ ^^^ .^ „f Mount to perfection by the gU.n^ ^ Ifi^nt in its altitude. Fusiama, grand m it. si/x, n surrounding Like a potentate, it appears to rule country. J'oyas^c f/nviis^/i the yaf>ivicsc In /and Sca.<. 207 V. K INM.ANn SF.AS. ;3C the ni:in who has ,ycd happiness ! In thoroughly deserves the months I passed ■ws to be seen than upon the deck of a , the right extends a on of Yeddo, thickly c. and closely dotted ^ue residences of the lie sweeps round with ,1 bluffs dotted with c which is heightened in? summit of Mount ificcnt in its altitude. Ic all the surrounding From a ilistance l*"usiama looks as if it were a solitary excrescence in tiie centre of a vast i)Iain : but such is not the case, for numerous hills, which elsewhere would be worthy of attention, lielp to make portions of the base of this wonderfully shajjcd sacred rnounl.u'n. The first time I saw this mountain was uiuler most advantageous and peculiar circumstances. Our vessel having been caught in a typhoon the day jireviously, as we were doubling Cape Itsu, the violence of the wind, the near approach of night, anil our captain's itrnorance of the rocks, currents, and islaiuls, that abounded in the vicinity (for in those days no trust- worthy charts of this coast were to be obtained), induced him to order the shii) to be i)ut about, so as to obtain an ofling till favoured with daylight. And well it was that he did so, for the v.inds and waves held high revels, and the rain descended as if the flood-gates of Jieaven had been opened ; sail after sail v\as taken in, neither watch obtained their allotted period below, and our noble vessel strained and groaned under the se^'ere lashing which the disturbed elements vouchsafed her. With little warning, except a sudden fall in the baro- meter, the storm commenced, and it terminated as abruptly, for when day broke the wind had died out, the waters had subsided, and the atmosphere was unusually clear. Not having undressed during the night, as our position was one of considerable danger, the first faint lines in the East that ushered in the rising of the sun found me on the poopdeck for the purpose of enjoy- ing a cheroot and a cup of coffee. As the sombre shades of night chased each other to ao8 All Round the World. the wcsUvaul, and the sun had nearly approached th. r's,^^ h ri.on, bcl^.ro us. on our port-lxnv. appeared ICZI <.f Mount Fusiama-thc base be n, wreathed nc3 Us colour was of the palest bh.c except :h:^e:nowrestedh.thera.n.;its^ ::^:;in^u/rnr::^.:^;Ls.ea...^^ -t""V"rrir:;:r;:::r;i:::i";;;; of, to convey to tnc reaoci b Cs:i being' my ,.rinci,>a, vcsiacK. ' ---' ;;^- 1 i^ X'-KTisiki on board one of the l . anci w. to proceed to iNagasaKi, u i„^,,-ul of steam-vessels chartered by Government. ^"^^-^^ '' W in, the coast, the inland sea was to be ou m. and thr^e Japanese pilots were sent on board b th. Custom Ib-usc to superintend our --^^^^- J^^ ^ r. n„trh ind luiirlish men-of-war had previously d ih ou.' his landlocked channel ; but with these ;;::r;^i w:^ were about to visit localities unUnow.. to ^Lns! With break of day we got uiu^c. s^arn^ rejoicing at the prospect of adventure and nov Ity , on he bid-^e. calm and serious with the respons.b.hty of he posirion. sat the three su' jects of the .mperor ; between th.MU rested their compass and their charts. Tl cu er and inne, bay of Yeddo is connected by a rugged, while the vegetation is of a decpe green a „,ore abundant. The bluffs that margm the waters ''J„.„^^^, J. iil.proachcd the rt-b()\''. appcarLil ^c \Mn\i wrciitlicd Ifst blue, except sh;ipe a triangle, —a staff officer's streaming' plumes simile T can think lea of this ilistant Kanagawa. where the ijtnnoon of our I received orders c of the P. and O. ncnt. Instead ot as to be our route, oil board by the aviL^ation. One or ar had previously ncl ; but with these )calities unknown to : got under steam, and novelty ; on the ;sponsibility of their c Emperor ; between charts. o is connected by a orus, with the excep- so precipitous and a deeper green and nargin the waters of Voyniie t/iroii:^/i the Japixncsc Inland Sots. 209 the grand Mississippi before its junction with the turbid Missouri liave often recalled to my niiml this far I'.astern locality. On gaining the entrance to the outer bay, our stem was pointed to Simoda, where we arrived in a few hours, and came to anchor. As our stay was uncertain, none were able to leave the sliip ; but abundant amuse- ment was obtained by pistol practice at the numerous divers that constantly were floated past in the tideway. Two .sharks, about eight or nine feet long, honoured us with their presence, and appeared carefully to ex- amine the ship, which, no doubt, tliey regardtil as a new species of sea-monster with which they had no previous acquaintance ; but their ins])cction was brought to an abrupt termination, for one of my companions gave the larger a pill from his Colt's revolver, which struck near the junction of the vertebr.x' with the head, thus at the same moment terminating its curiosity and its life. r'rom the appearance of these fish, I should pronounce them to be the common blue shark, sometimes seen in our home waters, and frequently to be met with all along the Atlantic seaboard of the American continent. The following morning, with a fresh and fair breeze, we tripped our anchor and headed for Cape Itsu. The nearer we approached that inhospitable, bleak, iron- bound headland the fresher it blew, and when wc had at length doubled it, on altering our course to the south- east, we found ourselves opposed to a heavy gale, and a most uncomfortable short tumbling head sea ; moreover, the barometer continued to fall rapidly, an indication that an unpleasant night was before us. Hereupon the pilots, )' All Ro7tnd the World. beckoning the captain to them w' '^ ^ ' ,^,,^, Gestures. ^;.vc hiiu to u.Klcrstancl 'Y^^^^^ ,,,i„ts r ,i,r Our course was now chanu"-i' ^^^"■" ' be M.uulU Our course ^ ^.^^.^^-aft canvas was ,n..rc to the east, suit cent ^^^^^^ ^^.^ set t.. steady the vessel, and ^^^^^^ j.^e of .ere approaching ^ ^^l^^:^^, f n^Ti. Jap=^-c eoast-naviu.a.on 1 luul ever set ey ^^^ .^ ,,„ coolly retained their I'-' ^^^'^^^^^ ^ ^..a ..ve ,vc.rd escaped then, and nou,ht but .me were possessed ol me. v i ^| .^^\^^ ,n shore. . K„f,vcrn us and a lon^j. Haifa mile did not uUervene ^^ w^'-"" ^^f apparently unbroken lino c,f ^-^^^^o.^ the Jllich would occasionally ^^^^^^ ^loJ^r and hollow succeeding an "-f^^^'y "^^^^"i„,a dcstruc- closer we approached, and J- ^ ^^\' l^^,,,,, ,,eame tion was imminent, a clear cha nel ^l^^'^J j^^^,,,. apparent, throu^. ^t: JL - tw^l^u'^dlands. oneofuhiehNV -•^ into a beautiful, calm, narrow semblinu' u martello toNver. mo ^^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^,,. ^->'-^;";'"r^"' ir^::t: :"i hnis. and dose to a end of this bay. shut m amoi,, , ^^^j_ „,,,t picturescp.e village embedded . ^ ^^ lished by a handsome temple. N\e droppec .,,. enuance to this .ay in n>o. U.n one respect rcindc. n. of U. entrance to Dalaklava Harbour. ■ ^* ^ BP ^ -; X i. irious j);iiUomimic shelter huil better s our saloon and cabin, was more than funny-it ^^as ^-"^^^Wjii^^-i--; .-"5~~"'"'~ '■" ■ ■ .tucss tha<. at once able result of good vho previously had regarded me with I tried to ask for a with me, but slowly cthing unintelli;4ible rapidly off. stopping hat cither I was not a spring, I killed a the water bore proofs 1 the habit of coming c confines («f cultiva- land joined, a cock dropped into some n trampling down the n the wing, so unwill- id it surrounded ^'ith size, and filled with all apparently decked ts had been on shore ; ably of us, and hence le of the notables were sir manners were digni- and their astonishment engines, and, lastly, at re than funny— it was Voyage throtigh the Japanese Inland Seas. 213 serious. I lalf an hours sojourn convinced them that nothing was to be dreaded from us, so that the tabooincr we had previously suffered from was removed, and all that were so disposed were permitted to come on board. They were an excellently behaved company, for though on every hand were ranged what to them were wondens, still all were satisfied with looking, and abstained from touching. Would my own countrymen, under such cir- cumstances, have been equally considerate ? The gilt buttons of our military clotliing particularly attracted the young ladies ; women are as fond of finery in Japan as at home, and never was brilliant ring coveted more by city belle than were these ornaments of our costume. Having more than a dozen spare ones below, I distributed them to the best-looking. The treasures were accepted with a timid, bashful grace, while a bril- liant blusl^ suffused their faces. These fair ones, particu- larly when young, are very pretty, and not nearly so dark as the sterner sex. How they laughed and giggled as we showed them different articles of our apparel, and when a glove was placed on one of their hands, all fairly screamed with pleasure! The dress of the Japanese women, both north and south, is almost the same ; the richness of embroidery, material, and ornaments denoting their rank. It is strange, but nevertheless true, that the costume of our " girl of the period " much reminds me of the millinery fashions prevailing in that distant archipelago. Bottles, tins, in which meats and condiments had been preserved, were welcome gifts, a wine-glass or tumbler a most valuable present ; and with such odds and ends all All Round the World. assassinations of I-"™P'="" ^ p„sons tlie .m- distant land have g.vcn ^'"^'f ^^^"^ J„„, ,„d blood- p,ession that the ^-'P»"«%"'-' 'me to bolicvo exactly the reverse, for, altho^Ey'^-y "" ^ j ,,ospitabl:, and and reeWessly br,ave, they ^^.^'^^J, „,cd their ,,„tle. And 1 >>'; -';^ ^ ':Uors' some inraginary weapons ^'B"'"^' ;^'^, ,,',„,,ing from ignoranee of the.r insult, or some m stake re » p; ,,sh and habits, has been the ^"-'°^^°^°Z „,,t all vlth dark A,nencans,asaralc,ar=toop™e^o ^^^ ^^_^^ ^_^^ skins as inferiors, and *'''™'= i„tod. Sueh even strike those whom Nature ha^^thu p^_^ ^^^^^ I know to be the case, admirable command occasion been surprised '"J' *%; ,, d. of temper the injured persc^.stave"■ j'^trTweTuld reus villages ^-""Vroro'cacefurhomes were scat- judge, P'-Pf '^r Hrdifferent is this from China! c in rctii.n little Urluckily the occurred in this persons the im- rous and blood- believe exactly ud, high-minded, hospitable, and ^ have used their , some imaginary ignorance of their ion. English and treat all vith dark wheat, bully, and us painted. Such ,n more than one imirable command ijplayed. c^ by midday the i'into the midland I believe, the name luring the run, and •ding-place for these iltivation and nume- as far as we could al homes were scat- is this from China! I's hand there is in a tndeur ; here all is in :nt greatness. Voyas^c tJirongh tJic yupancse Inland Seas. 1 1 5 In Japan agricultural implements may be more rude and primitive than in ICurope, their invention and manu- facture less cor.iplicated and highly finished, still they are suited to the wants of the population, and as they know no better, they are satisfied. I laving within their reach the summit of their ambition, we have a right to expect that they are happy. I'^ir my own part, I believe them to be as happy and contented a population as is anywhere to be found on the face of the earth. Another characteristic which cannot fail to strike the stranger is their extreme cleanliness. All cla.sscs appear equally to love washing, and to practise it. Even the coolies and lowest grades invariably looked clean. Their last work, when the labour of the day terminates, is to wash off the perspiration and filth that results from their toil. While on deck, \\atching with pleasure the ever- changing panorama, my attention was called by the boatswain to a scene I had frequently heard of, but never before witnessed. In fact, previous to this day, I had believed that such only existed in the productive imagination of lovers of the marvellous. It was a contest between a whale and some threshers. I do not say thresher- sharks, because I believe the fish I speak of and the well- known species which bears tha*: name are different. The sailor's yarn goes on to say that the sword-fish and thresher enter into an alliance, hunting in couples. When these allies fall in with the whale, he of the sharp nose pokes the unhappy monster up from below, while every time the unfortunate blubber-coated gentleman comes to the surface the thresher, springing from the 21 6 All Round the World. j^. ..Hc.i„„ of . ;- -rsi Sc; But w. »o,c too far "«^ " "^ "J ,^, observation of all „,ust have been well u orilj o rte ^^_ ,^^_^^^ ^.^^^ distance, made a charming background At sunset wc anchored ni front ot a i.u^e aetrpoHatecl, wit,, — ^^^^^^^^^^^^ :r:^rtr::^-:^^:.water»^cove^ ■.h hn-its all the occupants bemg ni gala dicss vc^^ ---Ti:!^ti::^^r^^- T":Td cto 1/ U^ fortunately the engineer per- ,T ,1 the c cape of the waste steam, whieh so i.mm- S^leddltS ?he ™ost ludierous scene of confus,o„ P'oyasic //iroiio/i the Japancsi Inland Seas. 2 1 7 •ccn the two, the lis food, on which icicntly similar to traordinary storv. he details, which observation of all )my of animal life, s apparently well ocked appearance one of our Scotch through vistas of tiful, and the lofty id by climate and d. of a large town, landsome yamoons ;. Half the popula- c water was covered ,n gala dress. Few as down before we rowd, who advanced ^ the engineer per- am, which so intimi- sccne of confusion ;horc. ' an early hour, we icics and beholding :s were scattered on 1 by or lay at anchor, of the resources and population of Jai)an, and that it is possible, by a closer contact with them, for us to learn, from this great h'astern people, niueh which might be of benefil to our over-popu- lated island. The town we next anchoreil at to spend the night must have been inhabited by a branch lodge of the far-famed Rollicking Rams. Off the}- came in .scores to greet us, chanting their impressive .songs to the time of the scullers who propelled their boat.s.* Many of them had grog with the. 1, which was willingly tendered for our consumption ; still, although saki is not a bad tipple, our Japanese friends showed a marked preference for what we had. Thej- kept going and returning till so late an hour, that prudence forbade any more visitors being received. Long after midnight I heard a party on .shore singing, not " We won't go home till morning," but, ar> my imagination told nie, a correspondingly festive ditty, suited to the longitude of Japan. During the remainder of our journey, the same scenes of loveline.s.s, the same hospitable receptions by the people, were repeated, so that we were all fascinated with Japan and her inhabitant.s. And when anchor was dropped in Nagasaki Bay, I can safely venture to assert there was not one on board who did not wish to have the same cruise over again. Before leaving this highly favoured and charming country, I will mention that many of our evenings were spent in witnessing our horse-coolies wrestle. They had built a ring, a littie larger and much resembling a cock- pit, which they floored with sand, and in this they per- formed their deeds of prowess. * Boats are always sculled in Japan, not rowed. All Round the World. mc.l induced tW that Pn^^^^^ art to enter the hsts. They cUc . ^^^ ^^^^ thrown ; and it was done uth-^J^^^^^^^ ,,,, 1 always by antagoms ^ ^^ aid not exert actually imagn-icd that ou ^ ^^^^^^ .^ ^^^ ^ themselves. ^ V'"' ^it to n y race, 1 entered the Determined to do cred^ to n^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^j. arena as a combatant. I o a ^ ^^^^^. Afterwards I found -^J^^^^ fdlow-very little ever, after "^"^^\,Pf [^''^'^'Numerous were his salaams, Wishing with all n;y ^-^ \^; ^^.^raced. With but fellow had been twice the izc, w ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ,,Ue exertion. 1 threw hm. Aga n ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ other for a seconu tna . ^ ^„ pother earth turned, and I f-nd -^yf'^^l^ll ^^ ^hird time the without knowing how l L ^^^ ^ ^^.^j^ed crest- second performance -^^ P^^;;.^^,y ,,refully brushed fallen, while rr.y successful ^^^^^^ ,„d mumbled off from my clothes -ry ^^^^^^^^ ,o„our he had unintelligible words exprcssiv received. . ^ j ^j^tie cteature permitted I feel now --^^f;';;, occasion, hoping that I „,e to throw him on the hr t ^^^^ ^^.^^^ would then b^;f ^^tt'st i^aUon for Japan and the . ^:rf ;l:J;ctCwiU% -U among the most IrSSed nations of the earth. El Dorado. 219 iwall men with owlcdi^c of this invaruibly wore .parent case, and msclves, that 1 a did not exert itl it no longer. ., 1 entered tho lie no foe offered, objection. How- ,Uow-vcry Uttle ,verc his salaams, 1, was about to do lis mosquito of a braced. With but ,.c laid hold of each Ics, however, were g on mother earth "a third time the md I retired crest- y carefully brushed dust, and mumbled the honour he had le creature permitted ision, hoping that I re any more trials, ion for Japan and the ank among the most CHAPTER XXVI. EL DORADO. CALIFORNIA, of which San Francisco is the mer- cantile capital, is so much changed of late that the reader must not go there now with the expectation of beholding the scenes that frequently occurred a few years back. The discovery of gold in any part of the world has always had the effect of drawing together crowds of the dis- solute, idle, and " ne'er-do-wells." Ballarat, in Australia, passed through a similar ordeal to San Francisco, in California. Nor can this be wondered at when it is known that the gold fever invariably first seizes the bad and reckless of every nationality. Because California is a portion of America, I would not for a moment have the reader to imagine that the' education and proclivities of the people of the United States have anything to do with the reckless and anti-law abiding scenes that have taken place on the Pacific slope. Commerce w'as prosperous, gold plentiful, new " leads " All Round the World. 220 , 1 th.- influx of immisiants into this daily reported, and ^^^^ ""^^ ,,f ,„; ,;^,_ Money ^^^^'^^^'r'tr;;:^t; ttounusLthinctosec was so abundant that M ^^ , j,,!,,,, -^ a theatre door, inc levei iw. portion of the house »liicli rccuvcil a large ^^^^^ ,^,,j after ..tness.ng *;„"Xi »d "S-" «"^ "T""" made a bet f "^ . °' . . » ^j. Luek evidently ap- was repeated -*. '"; /^^X^^e from the table, I pcared on my side , a"^ e«^ ' . ^, .^Ith my fvas the winner of a considerable s„. I ret ^^^^^ ^ gains, and next ^^'^^^^^^^^^ , ^nd as one or two was not suocessful on this « , b„t re- disputes had «''=" P'^'^^' \; ".tme roJm where Faro „,i„ed as a spee ator n th sarn^^^ indulging in a was benig played, a select ,, t,,^ players favourite American game falkd Pok«- J were of strongly "nUasted appearance One some, and suffieiently ar.stoerat.e-looku>„ FA Dorado. 221 rants into this r visit. Money ;il thins to sec ion at a theatre 1, and <;anibhng portion of the maining in San ;oukl enable me Lcly required fo' 1. I have been my folly- l^c c done. was over at the as the night was id to a gambling- )f patronage from as the g:une ; and some minutes, I rain the operation uck evidently ap- from the table, I I retired with my the same work. I and as one or two d my seat, but rc- : room where Faro ere indulging in a 5ker." The players ,ce. One was hand- ooking to represent the oldest Anglo-Saxon family ; another, olive-brown in complexion, might have sprung from the Hidalgos of old Spain; a third had "villain" stamped upon his counte- nance, while the rest were more commonplace, or possessed less distinguishing characteristics. A remark made by one of the party induced pjc to overlook their play. A short st.'iy informed me that the ill-favoured person was winning. His manner at once told me that he was in better society than he was usually .' ^tomcd to. Again and agaiii his gains were drawi oy him, and some vulgar joke or a proposal to standi tlrinks followed each of these proceedings. To a casual observer, all apparently were satisfied ; still I observed a sterner ex- pression settling on the face of the handsome contestant. Once o' twice he made remarks on the provoking per- tinacity 'jf adverse luck ; yet I must say that he lost his money, apparently, without regret, and with the most gentlemanly sangfroid. My interest had become excited, and consequently I felt inclined to see the affair out, when to my astonish- ment I saw the person whose appearance had elicited my interest, with a rapidity that was surprising, drive through and pin to the table with a large clasp-knife the hand of the common-looking fellow who had been previously win- ning. At the same instant a revolver was pointed at the head of the cheat (for such he was proved to be), and a wholesome piece of advice given him that, if he attempted to stir or draw a weapon, his brains would spatter the wall. In a moment all was uproar and confusion, all the occupants of the room rushing towards the point where, like statues, stood the principals. On the face of one was All Round the World. ,.r'an««. True cnougl, «- -';;';;^^ , X ' rtits always po^scsbi-d a stron„ i ,. , r ''?' Vvo; Ulng .1, a,as<, ^.he„ tl,c weather La-fow> are .o ^'^^-^t'i;; :.:iln:was,e„e- ?-55Xti--^- •^^'"^ '"^ ■^r.rtd'at'td'^^tr^very patch :r:S°"'scar:r;\ cncvolent parties Iclinquent. How- f alive, vividly re- dundant ; and as I Dr out-door life, cs- ed, day afte.- day I I not returning till , when the weather nicnt ; for seals and :, and fish are ex- ter, inland was gene- ng-range was there ! :h birds— the Cali- ick, teal, and snipe, leer were far from 1 out of every patch without somebody El Dorado, 223 seeing a grizzly bear, and seldom a week elapsed with- out accidents from their pursuit being reported. Near Sacramento I met a cavalcade. The specimens of humanity that com])osed it were of the very roughest descriptii>n ; regular " leatlier-stockings," in ail tiie glory and attractiveness of greasy, dirty, well-worn buckskin clothing, between tliem they led, or rather dra^L^ed along, an imfurtunate mammoth grisly bear, cut, bruised, ai.d apparently half-starved. The luirdy rough mus- tangs that each of the wild mountaineers bestrotic exhibited plainly that theirs was no easy indolent life, that short commons and hard work made up the greater portion of their existence. Vet their eyes were bright, and they raised and replaced their feet with an air that clearly indicated good health and powers of great endurance. Although fossil remains of horses have been found in America, there is nothing to justify the supposition that these quadrupeds existed on the Western Continent when first visited by Europeans. Soon after, however, Spanish horses were introduced, and all those to be found in Texas, Sonora, and Cali- fornia, ranging about wild, have the form, shape, and peculiarities of their European progenitors. But to return to the capturers of bruin. I passed the night with them, and a daring, reckless crew they were. All, with the exception of a Milesian, were descended from families that had settled in Missouri when that State was a territory and formed the western boundary to civilisation on the American continent. Each was OMQ.X six feet high, straight as a lath, spare, muscular, but 114 All Round the n'orld. powerful, ready cither to f.^ht Indian or CUunmunt al ^^'^;;::;n;:p::tyi.ahis.ce.o.ndup.and^ in a slin.' This -and his bein^ by s-mie yca.s th. . du 11 t'l n,y synM.athies, so 1 volunteered to stand lun n k Iwen bad whisky will unloose the tonuuc. and t not too frenuently taken, promote feeluv.s of «.jod ^X lHtcLn,^.hisbelt.a,.d produce, a puu of tobacco nibbled around like a slup-b.scu.t that had el t in the way of rats, he took an enor.nous chaw !rednKthebalancetohelpn.ys^ffrom.andthcn^lK^ thus -"That's an almi;^hty b.- bar; he s not i c haps th heaviest I have seed, but by lon.odds he s the talles^ ^;::hen his dander is ri. yen. had ^-fer cheve h s all there • and we had the hardest knul of t uk m l.xm, ll It'was hin. that chawed n,e up. smashed n,y arm ■ ne r took n.y scalp off. till this boss n.-st thought i^wasadeadcoL A Greeser (Mexican) that hves .m Bo -s ranche knowed this bar for many a day for 1 Wd ^>st come round the homestead and hdp.s-^1 liars have a wonderful amount of sense , they Know a ^ cser U.ey does. If Missouri or Kentucky tolks had been ivin, "n that ranche. he wouldn't have come ,t that sty you bet. Well. T and the boys come across hs ' k but for two da>s we seen nothu., of hm. At en.th when out berrying. I ran mo.st a,nn hun for he ato was on the same errand. We both seen the other o" her. and h. ri. on his hunkers, grunted, and j.st s I tlld t he was on to me. he gave a snort, and nKulc ra k as if skeered. You see. stranger, that bar seed . no Grceser. Well. I didn't shoot, for an old load or Cataiuount al J up. and an arm ic years tlio older jrcil to stand him : the toiiLCue, and, i; feelings of '^ooi] proihiein-^ a pUii; )-bisciiit that hatl n enormous chaw, )m.and then spoke he's not perhaps Ids he's tlie tallest ; better believe he's J of time in fixint,^ , smashed my arm, iioss most thouf^ht cican) that lives on lany a day. for he d and help his-self. L;nse ; they know a Kentucky folks had 't have come it that ys come across his :)thin;:j of him. At St agin him, for the both seen the other grunted, and jist as a snort, and made igcr, that bar seed I oot, for an old load 7:7 Dorado. 225 was in tlif rifle ; ;inil .iltlio' she do carry plumb centre, she jist w.mts to be Idiidly lie.ikd to l)e nlii'd on ; so I \,ent home and wi[)ed her out, after uhieli I can)e l)ack with the boys to the luiekle-berry iKitch. but the b.ir had i^one ; and we giv up looking after .1 bit. thinking luck w.is agin us. Scattering over the |)lace to get a {i.\i.\, for the berries was prime, as I stepped out from behiiRJ a log. jist facing me. looking as pleased as a well-fed nigger .it meeting .111 acipiaintance. was the grizzly. ( Uiick as a steel trap f ihvw a beail, fair plumb on his breast, atweeii the shoulders ; darn nu' if i diiln't think to dro|) him in his tracks, but 1 didn't hold straight. A kind o' buck fever must have been over me, and before 1 could turn he was on me like a wild cat. The fu'st sweep he gave r.iised my hair ; the next I knowed, I was d aibled up untler him, anil the l)lagu)' critter was chawing my arm. I tried my best to get at my bowie. but I was th.it cramped I couldn't reach it. Hut the boys heartl the shot. Up they come. Jake first — that big un stantling with his back agin the fire there— he's a bully boy, he is ; and he let drive. However, the shot diiln't drop the varmint, but it most did as good, for it took the plaguy critter off me, and after them ; but they give him it hot and strong till he caved in ; and as they thought he might be playing possum, they muzzled him, anil tied his legs ; and so it proved, for you see he's not a darnt bit the worse, allhu' he's got five shot-holes in him. Why the boys ilidn't kill iiini, you see. they thought that a heap of dollars might be got if we took him all right into Sacramento or San hVanci.sco." '^ ill Round the World. 226 ^ ~ ,'ot wroiv in their conclusion as 1 The party were "^^ uro . ^^ ^^^^^ ^,.^„,, ,,,, .acrwurds learned .be la^ ^^^^^ ^,^5,,^ to ^^-^^'^^"f.^?:fXtSrt a choi.e assembly of dh^lct my step, soutlnvard. conclusion, as 1 )f poor bruin was St ca:li other to aicc assembly of oon. he hills, a report lora caused me to yl Day in Sonora. '27 CHAPTER XXVII. A DAY IX SONORA. SONORA! What a euphonious word. I never listen to it without pleasure, for it recalls both music and the dark-eyed beauties of Andalusia ; but Sonora is far from old Spain, across the Atlantic, across the North American Continent, bordering on the placid mari^in of the blue Pacific. The catalpas, a tree far excelling in fragrance and beauty the horse-chesnut, were in blossom as I threaded my way along a path just discernible from the sur- rounding savannah. My horse was foot-sore, leg-weary, and heartsick, for he had performed a long and tedious journey on soft food, while my saddle had badly galled his withers. Poor faithful steed ! It bled my heart to mount you in your distressed condition, but I had no alternative. Day after daj-, as lassitude became more apparent in your limbs, and your once bright eye became more filmy, I frequently argued with mj-sclf the charity of turning you loose to wander at pleasure ; f ) 11^ All Round the World. ;',. cubic; »ml my .-..pcct for your memory. ^ T„. country through f^^^ZJ^]^!! by :Si^Vtcd*cir^rmc.cv^^ under my bovsc s hools, ^^ nuc ^.^^^^^^ .^,.; bounded P-^. -^. -^^, *t most tempting stupor ^vas over me. I ca cl not t . ^^^ ^^^^^^ .^ ::;:^;t';^?:^aU^;:::^-:i-----^-^ .vould have been droppecl- ^^^ .^^ ^^^^^ , And why you .-,11 a k ad I o o ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ Sh.ply for this reason . I ^^y!^'^;^^^ ^,^ ,f, ,„a one f.M-.M- ind a"-ue, a disease diilitult lo ^ei i «. . ;;;;ru,cac.po„.c..yor*c,,,..c,p..^^^ sfr.t'r;ri'ur„,o.Lro„ru.a,,d.oc. 'In", the day had glided by; all nature ,va, briRh. .„rclec'*l; every ai^imal, '-, and shrub bappy-^^ summer sun ;*'|^^'-^,^:„i,,rt steed the more conspi- .t„„ed ;""' - ; ,t " A length the increasing shadows :r:hat it :^ U,n: ;. choose^ haUiug.piace-a matter have rcaciied a cu devoured by ;n here penning cmory. Jays I had been [ on the east by Hares {Lfpns ;ry side, coveys ; flushed ahiiost mteloper^l;///''"- \. But a listless le most tempting -, and but that it jlieve willingly it rcdvced in pluck ? from an attack of :Tet rid of, and one I most, and makes isequcnccs ; more- perhaps, was ini- a doubtful matter irrowful and woe- nature was bright \ shrub happy and ifluence of the early )ctween the travel- ed the more conspi- : increasing shadows ;ing-place— a matter A Day in Soiiorn. VIC) of no great difficulty, for the surface of tiie country was so similar that, excepting you chanceii to scat yourself in a nest of ground cactus, there really was no choice of situations. Attending first to the wants of my horse, and relieving his poor back as much as possible by changing the position of the saddle, I turned him loose to obtain his supper. Having disposed of this duty, the all-important fire was my next thought. There was plenty of wood around ; still I could not find any sufficiently dry and inflammable to start a blaze, and so in pursuit of this necessary material I wandered almost a mile from my selected camping-ground. As I advanced, on opening from the sparse timber to the grass land, a hundred yards to my right, I observed over a dozen wild cattle assembled in a close body, with a splendid bull, the evident leader of the troop, stationed about forty yards in their front, facing towards the timber, lashing himself into a fury with his tail, tearing the sod with both hoof and horn, and expressing unmistakably that mischief was brewing. In juxtaposition, still and braced, stood a grizzly bear, angular and starved in looks, with a coat so ragged and unkempt that at once I ccjncluded he was either a time-worn veteran or the victim of some slowly consuming wound. Both foes were so intent on the other that I had little difficulty in obtaining a favourable position for viewing the action that was pending, for bruin evidently meant mischief and the bull appeared no way loth to accept the gauntlet. A short time before, over the camp fire, I liad listened with great interest to a genuine mountain man — one who All Bound the World. 230 tvappcr, or skulWng aborigines. ^^_^ \t length both foes appear. . to consider t .as up.°Tbe bear with Hule. -asu ed tp had the bull s eyes, wiui a ^u 1 received by ''^'^""";:iTer:;::ctre-;::v.:>.einguser, bruin ui a halt-cicct pu^i However the force ,. bufters to lessen the concussion. ^ -^ ^^ ^^,,, nearly bore him to the ground, but v tactics withers, and all his sticU^^t doubtful „.aa of his ---^''-;^'=™:;" r f the be^r appeared .o .as the »«ffik- ,„]•;,:" :",t,in his grip, that of the depend on h,s bems, ..be ^^^ ^^ bull in gettntg free, - '^l"' V'^'»„,,\f bruin had been ,.ncw the eharg. Tl us fa ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ rMar^-:i;^ro„,..d.iined*e.^ I nd western slopes d such a rencontre :n did I suppose I e of those scenes naturalist, hardy ;onsider that time lasured step, had fire flashed from and head lowered, \ was received by i-e-paws being used However, the force ;,• tactics now were Lstened in the bull's ;rted to prevent the Long and doubtful le b*^:!!" appeared to his grip, that of the t procure impetus to at if bruin had been \ profusely from the tagonist. When the moments, the bull almost into the earth 1 ruse to obtain pur- steel spring upwards thrown clear several ave declined the con- ^ was in the mind of ies, with lowered head A Day in Sonoro. 231 and irresistible force, a second charge was made, fairl\- driving the discomfited and disappointed marauder to a headlong retreat. The rest of the herd, who had stood aloof earnest spectators, now joined in th'j pursuit, and — would you believe it ? — I, sick, weary, and footsore, {o\\m\ myself following up at the tail of the hunt at the best pace I could command, and I doubt not occasionally yelling a view halloa. For a mount that would have enabled me to sec the termination 1 would have given a good deal ; as it was, my locomotion was so slow that both pursuers and pursued soon were lost to view. On returning to camp, to my surprise, I saw a stranger closely examining my trilling traps that had been left on the ground. Unperceived, with great interest 1 watched his proceedings. Having apparently satisfied his curi- osity, he lit his pipe, and made himself comfortable, when a few moments after I walked up to him. On inspecti(Mi, he turned out to have the most cut-throat expression I ever jM-eviously beheld ; so much so that I at once cor.- cluded that he was one of those villains outlawed froir. the settlements, living as best he could, and even taking life if anything could be gained by it —for such characters were far from uncommon then in this locality. Our greeting was laconic and to the point, and in the very plainest possible words I told him that his society was disagreeable ; however, he was not the person to take a hint or feel insulted : provokingly he listened to all I had to say, but showed no disposition to change his (juarters. At length the night wore on. I ate my meal in silent dignity, while my visitor kept talking incessantly, although I never vouchsafed an answer. About the hour when I would have gone to sleep he was joined by All Round the World. 232 "' TTwn^ if possible, nu.rc rcpulsivc-look- a cnu-adc. a half ^'^-"^ J ucrc .ss..ci .tcs of lony ing than himself Ihcy ^^ '^ / ^^^j^., u^.^cs I ob- seized pass ^^ ^^ "^;\;^,i^^,., g^.^dcd and on the alert. I detern.ned to ^^P ^^^^^ \^^^^^ ..j, .,,Ui„<, some Once or tvv.ce the ^^*^^^^ ^''^.^ ^ ^sition in my „,y alarm .»» "-'-;■.,';',,, ,„,,„„. „r undoubted express sus,..c,ons, hat J ey u I „„uatural- respeetability and eharaeter , >>"'•"'- ;„ j,,,;, „ess in their assertions a susp.e.ous '^^^^^^^^^ „f n,anner, a watchMuess upon f "' " °; ™^ ^hus „„uch none but a <«^«'^^^- ^^^^y ..„apc -trTrsT>i™:rtLt;irairte.^ scoundrels ''i-PP-^tn^he preet ^ney of their flight something so comical in "^.P'™' > ;;„„ ^„„. ih ,t I could not help laughing, at the same tin that 1 couiu 1 ^ jjf „j,jt 1 gratulating myself that I had easily !. tas certain were dangerous parasites. In a y1 A ry ii ^ofionr 1 "> 1 c rcpulsiv(J-look- issoci itcs of long n'"- »' „f ,„„„, „vay from r 1' '^ ";,;j br^ic S ' morcc. o,. of .ou„d of the the hum and busue Mississipp , across „,„rnu,r of VoV^!""' fZt ^l. sequestered. „„„y luurdred -'- f ,,f ^e „ the eastern and ;-rV^:f :f \ "^i:^. Mounta,„s ...at I .ou>d carry the reader , .i,:.!, form as k were, a back- T„e RocVy M--^ An In continent, are divided bone to the S«'' ^"f ^X^,„ ,,,,,,„ are situated the 1 1. \. ;, decorated, and wish to draw at- icludcd, far more emanation alone :icts of land in the ,are with the parks s most favourably, )f man, away from it of sound of the Mississippi, across ) the sequestered, I the eastern and :ains that I would , as it were, a back- Intincnt, are divided ch arc situated the TJic Parks of .Uiicrica. ^2>S parks I wish to describe. A river fjeneral'y runs through each of these, the banks of which arc frini^eil with verdant meadows, of k:ss or ^n'eater wiillli, ^irck'd annind with gentle slopes, which increase in slee[)nessand barren- ness as they ijrow higher and higher. In these park lands a delightful evenness of temperature is generally enjoyed, for the surrounding elevations shut otit the cold blasts of winter and the heated breezes of summer. Moreover, snow never lies on them long, and th>. melting of the glaciers in the summit ridges produces an abundant supply of water throughout the dry season. Nearly every description of vegetation which grows in the Western States is to be found on these enclosed plains, and from the atmosphere being moi.st and humid it flourishes with great luxuriance. Some of the parks arc situated on debatable ground, between two hostile Indian tribes, and they frecpiently then become the scenes of fearful conllicts. Again some reckless braves in pursuit of game will wander from their tribe, and take up a residence in a park the i)roi)erty of another race. A general mustering of the rightful owners will conscHiuently take place to repel the intruders, for the Indian is jealous of his landed rights, and more especially of those territories which constitute their best hunting- grounds. Numerous white men, sometimes alone, more frequently in small parties of two or three (more especially in old times, when a beaver-pelt was worth four times its present value), have spent years of their lives immured in these seldom-visited wilds, the events and experiences of one day being so similar to its predecessor that the passage 136 All Round the U'orlil. of time wcuia be unnoticed, till Hu- s./.c of then , ck tlu. .eduction of their supplies of anum n.fon told the tint the tnidin- fc^rt nu^st h. visited. Instances have not b^.t.!tin,.Jn,entun.in,pe.^cthen.its.a^l.soa.^ themselves from the outer world m son.e of these spots, m; pin, ,ame for food, and usin, the bow an arrow as hei weapon of defence. 1 once n.et a iM-enelunan who ;rdev.ledhimselftosuchalia^ insresjde^cwa^^^ a ainunutive island, in the centre of a small lake, formed ;; ::obstructin, beaver-dam. which ca..ed an ove.^ow With a primitive lo, canoe he nasse-l to and f.om the ^:;nlancl. Hy chance I came across him setun, a snn^ for som. of the numerous Lr/>us famdy. He had no noticed my approach, and he .started when I spoke, urned round toward me. and drew hin,self to his full he,,ht vh dcd to the ri,ht-about. with the P--- ^^^ bearin.^ of a soldier, and would have gone, only I detained h m b^ laying my hand on his sleeve. With a gesture of ■Z^.nl ^dc. flashing from his eyes. In. a^^ond tinic faced me ; in his countenance was a look ( t might hi" be^. the result of mauaess) which plainly said !;".- fle not with me." After a moment's pause. he muttered iJ ear. .sonorou... haughty accents. " l'-"^-' ^ ^f^^;; ; and soon afterwards the last of l-^^^^^-^^f "^''"^.^^.^^ appeared behind some intervening brush. Mow I longed o'cuestion him. to ask him of his P-ious histoiy. h cauL of his solitude! That he -as a soldier 1 j^^ad no doubt-one of rank. I thought Pf^^-y^\'^, tarv air intonation, and look were all his ; why. I can no say but I feel convinced that he was one of those extraol^dinary men who sprang up and passed away with The Parks if .Imcrica, 237 )f their packs or iiilioti tdUl ihcni stances have not \its. and isohitui^' c of these spots, low ami arrow as l-"renclunan wlio residence was on mall lake, formed used an overflow, to and from the ,ni setting a snare ly. lie had not ^n I spoke, turned to his full hci^dit. he precision and ne, only I detained With a gesture of eyes, he a second as a look (it might 'hich plainly said, ; pause, he muttered Pardon, Monsieur," ttered clothing dis- ish. Mow I longed rcvious histo-.' , the ts a soldier, i had robablc. The mili- \U his ; why, I can- c was one of those id passed away with the First Napoleon, to whom a word of praise from their Kmperor was the greatest honour. l'"rom a trapptr who frequently visited this locality, I learned that there had been two of these isolated unknowns, but that one had long since disappeared. Doubtless the tax gatherer. Death, had taken ))ossession of the teuLUieiit of the niis^'ng ri.fugee. i'ossibl)', after all, he might have been no hero, but an outlawed villain. If man occasionally wanders to these parks lo pas:i the sunset of life, the wild animals of the forest aiul plain do so likewise. The giant buffalo bull, grand' in his proportions and magnitude, fierce in his aspect, from his matted, dishevelled, hoary coat, when no longer able to retain place with the migrating hertl, and contend success- fully for the choicest herbage, or tiie favours of the dusky fair ones of his race, -.eeks out these retreats, to pa.ss the remaining portioii of his days amid plenty, free from the dangers, bustle, and excitement which he so thoroughly enjoyed bel^ore decay had placed its stamp upon him. Poor old fellow ! he now looks gaunt and ragged, but well he may do so, for only conceive the life of incident and danger he has i)assed through ! I'rom the day when iiis mother anxiously guardeil him, with all the maternal solicitude that geiurally characterises the brute creation, when the grey \\()lf and cayotte prowled in their rear, willing but fearful to make an onslaught on the parent and child, to the period when he reached maturity, and possibly fled with countless thousands of his fellows, before the sons of man, ever too prone to shed blood ; or when later in life, fierce and ardent, he fought and sub- dued those less powerful than himself, and triuni[)hantly 238 All Round the World. .T~ff~fw!i7~i^mcrous clainuuits, the lady of his earned off, from lumKr _^„ .., ..^,i,.. conslant anil choice, from clay to clay, fu-m >-«• >^ \ ^^,,.,n.is unremitting adventure has been ^'- " " ^ '^^^ ; „^ . ^,,, , ..,,nceisno.c.cnnHJo^^ short period is befoic him tie u .-xisted. Look remain to tell the l--^'^^; l^ V^s^-^^t of buH^do ^,.en, traveller ; perhaps, even ncn ■ _^^^^^^ ^^^ grass conceal son.e n>e, aesn-ous ncn ,h a ^^^^ ?i,c veteran's carcass, but c:M o n.k a^ ^ ^^^^ ,he issue miuht f ^^l^^^^l , J, : f.^.uently the tceminu herds of ^vdd ^^ <[;!;: ;';! ^^.^j,^„, ^unk- encountered cjn tire p .r. ^^^^J^^,^^^ ,,,,ng, and ing how wonderfully they clitle ea ^^^^^ „hWiW> .iK bra, u ^^^^^^^ tlR-y arc-thc one indqiculaKo. In '■'«•;-»' . , .,^,„, f,..^ aKOts. 1 or th-rt their len-thened sojourn m the woi.cl na. to become •-"'-^•/.'^ " ;^"f f,,„, the herd, and retired, bunalo 1-^^^^;^^^ ^^ttcomes most pugnacious, ^^a Mc^^y a - ^^^ ^^^^'-''^ fortunately his and f-Mtlcssl> aiu .^.^^^ ^^ i^,^ activity has deserted h m at tliis s 1 ^^^jj existence, and but little exertion is necessary llic laily of 1"« ir, cdiisliint and Uit tin: sun of Ills hdii/.on ; but a bonus will alone ; existed. Look rli.n-.nm)f buffalo ..aku ■ 'nealon j_,,,t', •-, in which 'c never -^azed on I have freciuenlly jst without think- ibits, bearing, and lie latter is planted former, of reckless they are— the one .- other free agents, jy death alone, the a of the boundless als to become reck- 1 in the world has 1, and imparted to destruction, or that causes their tempers when the old bull he herd, and retired. les most pugnacious, ;rs; fortunately his oured portion of his s necessary to avoid The Parks of ^liiicrica. ^39 his onslauj^ht. I once saw one of thcsu licro-vcLcraiis die a natural tlealh, an uniisual occurrence, for their enemies are numerous and always read}' to attack them when in that weak state that precedes dissolution. Well, ii)y hero was standini,r on a mound, a setting fiery sun slowly dipped the western bounds of the landscape behintl him, and made his hui;e outline loom doubly grand. I'ood had been scarce with me, and consequently I made a more than usually careful stalk to get within range ; the game's position was such that I almost doubted the possibility of success, yet closer and clo.ser, without causing any visible alarm, I advanced. At length, when I had 'lecided that the range did not rec[uire lessening, I felt convinced that I had been seen ; for the head and eyes were turned towards me, but no angry shake of the h(jrns, paw of the ground, or flash of the eye evinced hostilitj-, and, more- over, the figure appeared to lessen with each rt:spiration, and an air of incapacity for further exertion was indelibly stamped upon the veteran monarch of the prairie. My gun was for the moment forgotten, and I gazed with wonder, and possibly with sorrow, at the apparent .'ipproach of death. By degrees the veteran's fore legs were placed farther and farther apart ; rapidly diminishing .strength instinctively compelled this method of supporting the towering figure ; at length the body swa)'ed, and, with ;i lurch like a foundering ship, rolled on its side, and life departed from the carcass at the same moment. Up to the termination of the career of the noble brute he had remained upon his limbs, defying decay witli his last breath. With sorrow I looked upon the bod)-, regretted that life had fled.; although, at the same time, I had All Ronndthc World. 240 4- ,..;tlT tho intention of executing boon drawn .0 '« »!»' * Jj ^ ' l,,,j,„,. IWfi.tlng was such a death t> tl c t ^^^ ^ ,,,,„„„ "r^r:h:-:r:^^rt:::;;:;;i'S ::hrCc s of :«u,.v,nh is ovc a„d ^^^^ ^^■'S::;"ro'":fsif Or/abodcs of shCc as wC as .he -^ b:;t^^=;:"or::?r':ft r a::;;''C''- ^nn .he bo„„daHes, safe.v f.on, The Parks of America. 241 on of executing ailed. Befitting succumbing only support, yielding in without a sigh ; her v.-.iy to these mother, she finds the exertions ne- /elling herd ; but , and the offspring necessaries of lift; .by wander back to :s to the first herd re a prize of great dly in the best con- ; epicure; but the ic child, and if the 1 short-commons, or r as well relinquish, alongside of them licltcr. as well as the ape, noble in size and our red deer of the ; mountain-fastnesses. Ds that grow in the low )n the sloping irregular :hat delight them, and oundaries, safety from pursuit is within easy access. So seldom in these soli- tudes do they hear the report of a gun, slill less sec man, that not unfre(iuently they will advance towards the hunter, every lineament of their features marked with curiosity, surprise, and even indignation ; but this is only when the cause of their intpiisilivencss is to lee- ward of their position, for .should the relative situations become changed, so that one breath of air tainted with man's presence reach their sensitive organ of .scent, with the- speed of a race-horse the neighbourhood will be de- serted, fo'- the protecting monitor. Nature, true to her darlings, whispers warning words, so impressive that they are never for a moment disregarded. The life of deer, \vhen free and untrammelled by walls and boundaries, must be nK)re than usually happy ; with- out care, and perfectly independent, their wants are easily satisfied ; tncirfood is the fresh crisp vegetation, and their dwelling-place the boundless plains or the picturesque mountain sides ; while the air they breathe is unpolluted by noxious gases tainted with man's inventions and manufacturing instincts. They bathe in the brooks at will, sport in its pellucid current, love and are loved ; and being without ambition, they commit no offences, which aftenvards fill a guilty conscience with painful remorse. After a stormy night, during which I had not obtained an hour's rest, first from the determined efforts my horse continued making to break away, and, secondly, from the torrents of rain that descended, my bivouac-ground being very exposed, I took my double-barrel Dougall rifle,* and, while my nag was enjoying his morning meal, * A low trajectory ul 14 bore. R t-j^i^^----''J' All Round the World. l,,dcr. The uncas.ncss of "^^ J^; ^^^^ ^^^^y, ,Uuncd ; bcar-tracks .ere found bund^^t . ^^ ^^^^^_ r,, habits must of -''''^'''y ^.^ ,X,rul.. 1 closely lity of making an ^^^f^f'^'^^Z^, of introducing surveyed the neighbourhood m the hi ^^^^^ the contents of ^ -.^i;^^:^,^!^ .as delightful, but I ^vas not n. luck. The -^m 1 ^^^ ^^^.^^^ every respiration appe.u.ng to .mbuc me w.t ^^^^ 1^^^^^^_ of walking, so I wandered on. fo ^ ^d J ^^^^ ^.^^^ and entered a piece °f .«P^" ;";';; -^dustrious agile carolled forth their mormng ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^j.^^Uy baiting squirrels skipped from hmb to 1>"^^' ^'^^ .^^^.^ appear- to chaff me for my travel-stan.ed -^ R^r. ^^^PI^^^^^ ,,,e. Even the snakes were ou m f o c . ^^^^^ ^ ^.^^ ,ets used to them, and ^-ds U em ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^.^^ f.om your longW d ^^^ ^^^^^^.^ ^s having .^ they receive. In i^^t, au ^^ ^.^^^^_ ,^^^j ^^e ,ec ; and the fohagc ^^^^ -^^ ^ ^^,.,^^,d a suitable grasses, ^f^^^^^'^Z. in thought and ad- playground for tnui fiol cs. ^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ miration. I was '•e<^^"*''^/'°"\7^^rds rolling down a a distance of over --/^^^^^'.^tou se. Inxiously declivity, and crushing the b;-. n -^ -u ^^^^^^. ^^ ^ iookingroundforthc cavjse b or n ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ splendid -I-. "-jy^ - tJr Forty pounds weight, bearmg a head of hoins n ^^ ,^^^. and considerably palmated. ^hc a ^^^^^^^^^^ peared unalarmed, for he arched h s back Umelf. Advancing closer towards hm. d make to our was soon cx- : in the vicinity, brute of peace- c to the possibi- I bruin. 1 closely c of introducing Wy, Ursiis fcrox, c was deUghtful, with fresh powers no fixed course, land. The birds industrious agile casionally halting begrimed appcar- rce, but one soon 3 little that a kick ;ly the only notice was having a jubi- amn tints, and the formed a suitable II thought and ad- eams by a stone, at ds, rolling down a course. Anxiously ne I saw standing a rh at the shoulder, "orty pounds weight, ag saw me, yet ap- back and stretched i him, not so much The Parks of America. 243 irr with the object of lessening the distance of range as to see how near I could approach without alarming the ani- mal, to my surprise he struck the ground with his fore foot and showed every indication of a disposition to dis- pute my rights of intruding into his demesne. But, poor creature, he knew not the fearful odds he had to contend with. Sixty yards now only intervened between us, so I pitched my well-tried friend to my shoulder, and ere the smoke had cleared off the ground, his beautiful dusky form was lying prostrate, apparently dead. I laving reloaded, a performance that should be always enacted immediately, and before moving one inch towards your game, I advanced wiih my butcher-knife drawn to cut iiis throat. Depositiiig my rille on a bunch of grass, straddling the victim, I raised his head, the keen edge soon brought blood, but ere the incision was an inch deep, the wapiti rose with a bound to his feet, giving me a tremendous purl ; the deer at the same time almost pitching on my prostrate body, his shoulder being tre- mendously smashed. On the spur of the moment I made a grasp at one of the hind legs, which 1 suc- ceeded in seizing, and, having severed the h,.,. strings, I prevented his escape and his power of doing .-.ischief. Leaving my filthy rag that did the duty o. pocket- handkerchief fastened to one of the horns, to warn off wolves, for these skulkers are ever suspicious, I returned to camp for my horse' to bring home the game. It was almost sunset before I was back where this little adventure took place. The spot I had marked well -'n n)\- memory, and my bump of locality I believe is unu ually large Already I saw a tree that I recognised ; my quarry K 2 jaKeSewS«fs™'!E?*>^SisasSf«*- "■' ■''■*^ ■ 244 All Round the World- listen to priority of ownership. n . ..- the c-u-cass lay an immense ^n-isly bear, his iips wind I stole within forty oi fifty paces oi u , I- . ,.vc.s unon his attendants, and raise his diminu ive eyes upon ^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^.^_^,^^.^ r:en^;.^^t^ r^^^hed tll picture ; at length the "iriLc retreats a,t ani.a, is sard to exist wlriclyhc ':S I avT b . ir^formed that it emanated n-om tl„s e eatur iMom deseription I believe it must be nearly Xd t^ tl.e earacal ; but why should ,t be dreaded. m The Parks of America. M5 :ic it was, but in would refuse to sly bear, his lips a couple of {.jrey I, at a respectful ; horse with the favoured by the of the would-be ived, for the car- wolves evidently rh for a moment around the throat, his head, f^x his ts, and raise his ul set of grinders, arc ; at length the d deer by the nape tion of carrying off determined without A good broadside t my foe fell to rise ade tracks for safer I to exist which the ;all a carcaju. Fre- lost unearthly howl- never be forgotten, emanated from this ■e it must be nearly ould it be dreaded, unless much larger and more powerful than that animal ? One of my temporary companions, a lialf-hrceil h'rench- man, who was considered an excellent hunter, returned to camp one day earlier than usual. l-Vom his maimer I saw that something unlooked-for had occurred ; and when questioned, he informed me he had seen a carcaju. On enquiring why he had not shot it, he appeared to think that any attempt to do so would be futile, and probably lead to his own destruction. A few days after this I made an early start to visit a stream where beaver signs were extremely numerous. On my route across a rocky spur, I saw a couple of big- horns. These must not be confused with th<: Rocky Mountain sheep, for the animals that bear these names among the western hunters are perfectly different, al- although both belong to the goat family. They, how- ever, frequent the same localities, the habitat of the latter possibly extending farther north. Both these races are the most wary, and con.sequently the most difficilt game to stalk on the American continent. Descending at break of day to the lower grounds to feed, ere the sun has dried up the morning dews, they arc en route for the highest and most inaccessible crags. Sometimes, as you thread >-our way through the rocky canons,* away, hundreds of feet aloft, on a pinnacle of crag, or on a detached portion of rock, which the slightest exertion would apparently hurl into the valley beneath, will be seen one of these animals ; but invariably far beyond rifle range. I made repeated efforts to accomplish the destruction of some of them, but failed so often that I * Deep fissures, in which rivers run. m All Round the World 246 Aii-i-r a severe si;ru^-,i>-, rcstmc. I u • c T r.-ichcd the first line of rocks , alter rcsu ^. bruises, 1 ^^^'^^^^i;^ jji I ,,,,,. ut I had gained suffi- agaui pushed upwards, uii i v ^ ^^^^ My plan, you will sec, was to ^^^^ ^ From my own ^b-rvation ai d fiorn rcma K ^^^ had heard, I coneluded that th se wary ,e. try danger only from beneath and i -^ ^^ ..cater alti..de tl- ^--; J f ^^ ^„,,,g ,,aor such length day broke- ho v ^^"g ^^ ^ ^„^,,,p,a in circumstances '.-and to my chagrin 1 wa v J, .,.-,. tint I could not see twenty >aiur, mist, so den- th^t j:o ^^^^^.^ ^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ mc ; however, with the sun, anxious and rolled farther up the rugged slopes. With and careful eye I --y^^:;^^: ^.'^^^ ^.^ining could I behold of the creat^^es 1 - f ^^^,^^^, ^^ on a return to camp, already 1 ^^ ^ ^e- ^-r^'t^^r^big^L^fonrtl gentleman ncath me, I saw tbiee b g ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ arc moments of pleasure m a spoitsmans Ute ; was rewarded, ucccss was thus I started from ;tl to sleep, cx- p-poor-will" (a instantly s\^\wv^ Icrive'-- its name, lied by falls and • after resting ' I lad gained su ffi- the lay down m 3r these elevated of day. above the game, remarks which I y gentry dreaded ;f juld obtam )e successful. At :oming untler such was enveloped in wenty yards from in of vapours rose, -s. With anxious c; but not a sign , , | ,,cU f'irms tercd over the A.m-r.can c.ntment, ,»ul 1 , ^^^^^^ uf countenance winch » both a t,ac ^_ ^^„ At n,aturity they are about the - ' ' '"^ ^'l ,,„,,,,cr. „,„,.„,K.n obtaincl yonnu.make - ■■'';;^ ;i;;^^ ,„. ,„eir s.,.„ns nn.sKy o.loar l^^Z.X then,- rity f<.r such a purpose St.ll no eave ^^_^_^ ;:j^rtk:';:;;ie-.e„.t.,.a™tw^^^^^^ .,„,„a. However, patience meet, '«; -;;';^^;^^^^^^^ ,,„,, i„ u,e afternoon, a fine ^P-'-" ? * ZL. the noon- s«.n followed by a secoml ami «^''^- / ,;,i,,„, „„a aay '-.t .louhtle. ''->:j;t^i; ',;i Lre. Soon a -re ".»■ "■"""« ;;'', .Ln i ; „ and fro, occasionally ^'''!;:rt:J"notseedan..i.....;;^^^^^ shilful engineering qaaht.es -'" ;^;'' ;,^,i„„ th.at credited, and I '>- '-^^^ ^ , brSl of i.agina- ;:::';:::rTh:r;:ti-eh the beaver has the credit The Parks 0/ America. i49 the walcr. Ui»l ly pr.scncc was -rats (imisiiviash) arc wiilcly sc.it- thcir pelt forms They arc most izzicai expression /c ami Uulicrous. a lialf-t^rown cat. blc pets ; however, inst then- popula- crs showed thein- a ample of hours shots both at deer nil the neit^hbour- ard, and about four beaver swam past. Durini; the noon- iig their siesta, and pleasure. Soon a id fro. occasionally tider water. They various members of 10 stronj;est friend- dins. <■'»■ ^">' °^ ^^^^ vhich they arc ac- the conclusion that lie brain of imagina- Dcaver has the credit of building arc thus formed : 'I'lie spring,' and aiituiu- nal floods carry down immense (pi.iiitities of timber, which in a bend or narrow place in the river form what the Canadian lunibermen call a choke—/*/ est: the loj^s fjet jammetl It "gather, and, by the cur- rent's pressure by dc^jrees become most firmly locked. The beavers which princi[)ally feed on the willow and osier, cut down the limbs that are within their reach ; the leaves anil tender shoots and bark arc gnawed off for food, and the remainder floats down the stream, and by the pressure <^^S. the water is driven into the crevices between the lar^^er Iol:;s, thus lillin^ up intervcuinL; sp.iccs, and forminL, an interlacin.ij net-work. With conlinucil accessit)ns of small branches soon the ■ -hole becomes an immovable mass, and a permanem dam is formed, which so obstructs the water as to form, if the vicinity is level, an overflow. These extcnd'xl sheets of water arc called i)caver-dams. The first cool weather in autumn biuu^dit a flock of wild geese from the north, which in a few da) s increased to thcnisands. IJucks also made their appeanincc. All were in the finest condition, anil far from w.iry. I observed not less than nine distinct species oi Ansa: To this may be added twenty-seven species of ducks, among which were to be found the genuine canvas-back, and a bird much resembling the eider-duck. Two species of swans arc also mimeroiis. On a cold day these various aquatic fowls might be seen going south in armies ; with a rise in the thermometer the course of their legions would be reversed. Strange to sa>', they do not always confine their society to their own race ; on one occasion j,o All Koiinil lite World. , c..untccl I'v. J.U.r c ^ ^^^^ . ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ in^r, but happy Uays. touitlur in thf \ the jKirks was e I wanted, and niy own land I ;i serenade that langerous, fatit^u- ./ Iluntiit;^ Miiadviuturc. ^5' C II APT !•: R X X I X. A It U N T I N (> M I S A I) V i: N T V K K. ALL those portions of the American continent which were settled by the l"'rench, aiul which have not since received an influx of emij^rants from other coun- tries, remain almost unchan^'ed and unimproved, A few scattered lo<,'-dwellin^rs and a few acres of cultivated land alone attest the preseiu x; of man. How different are those parts which are colonised by the descendants of ICn^jlish, Scotch, Irish, or Ger- mans ! The forest rapidly disappears before them, and comfortable houses, smiling cottaj^es, commodious barns, well-enclosed and highly cultivated fields, in a short space of time cover the entire surface of the land, which a few years previously was merely a wilderness. Vincennes, in the State of Ind'ana, was settled by the French. The town has of late years become of some importance, because the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad runs through it ; but down on the Watash River, not five miles of*" is to be found the primitive forest, only here All R^nndthc IVoud. 252 „„,ivc com.,»tcl.. I once n-c^ 1- - » ^^,^_, for same «as abundant, ami fi» « ^-^l^ ■ ^^ ^„„ „,,,, all those i-l"---'7,;f\/;:, wo abundant, prevalent, mosquitoes, jiffieiS and t.U. ,0 permit n,y stay '° "c^Hcn,*^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ In Vincennes there lived „u ^^^ teen an officer in the l''-»'^>" f"' ^;, „" .ctiscd it hunting amounted almost to a mama ad K ^^.^ ,t „o i"Considerable expens tl b . - ^^^^^^ ,_^^^. foible, he kept ^"'^ "„,', the most applicable :S:»^a'.taptit^ef.^n^^a.--„-- times this little ?='=" 'i'"'y ' "f J° , n»"l>C'cd several he almost killed o, e fnend •" <^ ''^^^'-'y >„,^: ',„ notorious that no one could be "dueeo ^^^^^^ ^^ .^^^ pursuit of game. Th s uas to in ^,^^^, 'grief, because he -^."^Tr d ous dever pa* he '" "■°- r : a ;:' a ;= bunted them, soon after :;Tr:itrt'T:dla„: I -.^c K.s accp^amtance, and although numerous hints ^^ ^^:^^„ I had ocular demonstration o the «■ ^ ^^^ One fine morn.ng, nt the month 01 awoke in that delightful portion of my sleep (wh A Ihtntino- iMisadvcnturc. ■^52> ^lanty :uid climi- s nc.yhbourbood, :cUcnt ; but even I iit^uc were too Us too abundant, an who had once ,y. His love of md he practised it ter to indulge his I call them ?— eer- ie most applicable It he had very bad nap shots. Several im into trouble, for ly peppered several xame so notorious mpany him when in I a source of great its, and loved nearly rous clever pack he I them. Soon after K.'s acquaintance ; outsiders were given aore especially when .vould not be warned, andal, and therefore cd against him until act. of November, I was my sleep (which, with subalterns, is so often disturbed by the ration bugle when they happen to be orderly oftkeis) by a most discordant to-tooing on an old cracked horn witlun the sacred precincts of my bed-room. Solicitations for ten minutes' respite for forty more winks, for sufficient time to recall m>' scattered senses, were of no avail ; so, rather than insult my friend by thro^ving a boot at him— being a foreigner, 1 did not know b.ow he might receive such a welcome— I sprang from my couch, made a hurried toilet and a hearty breakfast. Then, instead of indulging in an after-breakfast pipe, the most de- lightful of all the pipes of the day, I determined to lose no time, and postponed my smoke till I was in my saddle. My mount was a pony, of about fourteen hands- handsome, good, and a great jDet. 1 had not long possessed her, but already knew her valuable qualities so well that I would not have taken fur her double the price she had cost me. Little did I imagine that this would be the last time I should cross m>' little mare. The hunting-ground was reached, and this Avas our plan of operations. K. was to take the pack and make a drive down wind, while I remained by a favourite pass, which, previous experience told us. the deer were ceitain to traverse. In fifteen or twenty minutes after taking my stand, a solitary doe cai^ie in sight. With the most "guarded caution she approached my ambuscade. Again and again she hesitated, bi.t the yelping of the curs reminded her that her present course was scarcely optional— that she had cither to go forward or run the ^ , . All Round the World. ^^r~7tkn-th her decision was formed Forward gauntlet. At len tn ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ towards my shelter she came J^ ^.^^_^^^^^, brought her within easy range as to ^^^tancc for certain shooting ^^^^^ ^^^^'''""^J^y Zr l.c. barrel, however, failed to do -^ ^ ^^ ^^^ ,,, i,ft course ; but as she passed me n more op n g ^^^^ . ^ brought her tail down, caus 1 e to ^^^ ,,e air, and ---b ^ - t 1 1 nees ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ sherecovered. and .as so the hoof-tracks, and an old ^ttt-'o X;: p 'cJon^^^^ --^-^^ "^^\-' ^"^'r skirtei of this pacK o intonation of ere he had gone ^ ^^f^^^^^^^^^^^^^ q,,,y. Hurrying up bis voice, I knew he V.d reach d ^^^q^^^ >^^ ^^^^ ^.^^. ^^ to the scene of action, i ^^^^^ the cur defiance with ^^^J^^^^^.^ beaten off 1 -If 11,, Tlio do<''. howevei , \\ ah not w u skilfully, iiic uuj,, » nnH -ifter a couple of unsuccessful attempts c 1 ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ "• "'-".r hd^g .t -- across his loins, made i, pony ; and, placing returning f-''°*^'',\:a;h::^:c::™„l„g.a„d evidently to my post, I again neai ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^. ,e.aing in nj^;- - ^:J ^I sapling, and started my gun, I made my n g ^^^^ ^^^^^ g^„^ at the double to cut off an ang e^ ^^^^ ^^^ more than a ^-"'^^^t ; Un^-tun^ they had ^,e, I saw ten or t^v-lve deer. ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ -^""^riisCm^^'-nn-^^^ pony. To his mome ^^ .^^^ ^^.^j^^ g^e A Hujitmg Misadventure. ^55 rmed Forward ;w more strides ancc, but difficult brush. My fivst slightly alter her m ground, the left •ing several feet in )m which position iew. Having re- acks, and an old overtook me ; and 1 the intonation of arry. Hurrying up oe at bay, bidding ch she used most ; to be beaten off. and after a couple and I got a chance I brought up my ss his loins, made it ddle. On returning nning, and evidently r to be able to use sapling, and started but I had not gone heading directly for fortunately they had t, passed close to the ill the reason, but the zed with fright. She the bridle broke, and off she went in the direction of the hunt, bucking and kicking, evidently with the intention of divesting herself of the load. Soon she succeeded, for the saddle turned round, and the deer got underneath her belly, where it remained only for a few minutes before it was torn off. Not wishing to walk home, I hurried after the marc, but shouts and kind words were unavailing. The little blackguard, glorying in her freedom, only cocked her tail the higher, and accelerated her pace. Cogitating over my unfortunate predicament, I heard a couple of shots close at hand, and knowing full well that none but K. could have fired them, I pushed forward, and soon joined him. From his statement, he had just fired at a tremen- dous buck, with enormous horns. He was certain we should find him dead close by, and said that we had better wait till some of the hounds returned to assist our search. After an unusual amount of to-tooing, one of the so-called hounds joined us ; but no exertion would induce him to take up the trail. " Very odd," said my friend ; " the scent must be very bad to-day." " Very curious," said I ; " my little mare has just passed this way ; did you see her .' " " No," he responded ; " no- thing passed but the buck I shot at." A horrible thought crossed my mind— so horrible that I tried to bani.sh it — no less than that the big buck was my pet pony. It was of no use. My suspicion I could not conceal, but K. was obdurate ; the idea was absurd : could he disbelieve his eyes .' ultimately we almost ;'-ot to high words. No deer-track could I find, but that of the pony was plainly visible. The cur would not acknowledge the passage of game. There was no room Z56 All Round the World. badly that 1.C l.aJ not kW "^ = ^_^_ ^^,,,j ^c the mongrel, now J"-;' -;- Z. made .o the ,igM indueed to open. Seveial ea - ^^^^ ^^^^^^ „,a left, but without »'■='- J^^d,,rtio„, when, to ,ve advanced in tl--.»"lf ^« ^"J^^Jj ,„y ,e, writhing in my horror -"'""'iCrirn; German friend swore riu ^Ust; a!;:;::, tUatlome ..e^.-c must be by all that . .^^ ^^ ^ ^uck. the assassn, fot ^^ f J^ ;,.,,,ent with such a n.an .as To waste my breath n a ,^ .^^^^ ^^^^i. absurd. I ^^-^f-;:-::!^ Me i:dicated that death had At length a couvuls.vc t •.. ^ ^,1^ a />.«/- relieved my ""^r^""^^^, f "^^ ^ ,,owc...i me that not v^ortan examn.at,on, j^ ^^,^,,^,;,,,„ ..ell placed for ,„ly had the charge of b ck^ ^^^^.^^^ ^^^ ^^ had ripped my saddle m ^^^^^^^^ ^ breast-strap, wished that the maie had bee ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ for then, when the ^^^f , ^;;t„, ,,a of both; and I society of the ^^^^^^^^ ^^ '^^^ in the company of most particular not to t ust > ou ^^^^^^ .^ ^^^^.^^^^ ,^ careless persons carrymg fiie-aim ^^^^^^^^ ^.^^^^^^ sportsman, however yo-n,--^^ .■/ Hunting Misivkcn/itiw -0 1 id had seen so .-aip;bv. More of whom coukl be ladc to the right • into the woods rcction, when, to ,y pet writhing in man friend swore one I'se must be buck. :h such a num was n)j!ht a great deal, ted that death had ^hei. 1 held -^post- >wca me that not ,en well placed for ,1 a portion of it nlaces. I fervently urat a breast-strap, ,ui.d with the deer, r,a of both ; and I , horseflesh, without sscd shooting in the ■, take my advice, be .f in the company of There is scarcely a be, who cannot recall ch people. add a little shooting d prairie. The niornini,v dawned as wintry and wild as if my location had been in the Arctic regions, and, as travellmg was out of the ciuestion, for I was en route to visit a friend, I was unwillingly detained captive for the day. A prairie farm in winter is far from an interesting domicile for any one, more particularly if confined to the house. i\fter hour.s of inertness and a heavy consump- tion of tobacco, I decided to face the elements, draped in white, preferring to do so rather than roast over an uncomfortably hot fire in an uncommonly cold hou.se. Putting on as much clothing as if destined for picket duty before Sevastopol in winter, I went to the plac- usually selected by the prairie chickens {Tctrao citpido) for feeding. Here a portion of the corn had been cut, and still stood in shucks, with the ear on. Arriving at the spot, although the snow was flying with considerable violence, I saw several chicken on the wing, indications which I favourably construed into promise of sport. Selecting the most suitable stand, I was not long tasked with delay, for birds commenced passing in every direction : even those that I fluslied only flew a .short distance before return- ing. It appears to me that I never saw game tamer, my white dress over head and body approximating so closely to that of the ground that many, doubtless, suoposetl me to be anv<:hing else you like to imagine rather than a sportsman. Even some headed straight for the shuck be- hind which I stood, and, doubtlessly, would have alighted if they had not been disturbed by n^y movement or thi report of my gun. One in particular, which came while I was loading, after being frightened from my shelter, went to the next stook and commenced feeding with 258 All Round the World. ncrfcct i- Uffcrcncc. But sucli an ordeal is trying to a !;:::^rcLtitution.anatorct^nasun.cic.^^^ heat required more vitality than I possessed, so that ;;fter an hours work I was con.pd ed to de.s^^ d fin-ers stiffened, and toes nearly paralysed. Foi the last tn Minutes, half the time was occupied u. fumbln.g to nhce caps on the nipples, an amusement far fiom ^i:Lnt^r soothing to an irascible temperame^. Having obtained quite as many b ."ds as I itquned, Ivith satisfaction I returned to the influences of the fi.e. and uncomfortable shelter of the homestead. Here, as it. other parts of the world. I heard he o d story of milk snakes, or of reptUes ^^^ from cows when in the pasture-fields, still I cannot Ueve these assertions, and I will give my reason o n.y incredulity. In the first place, there are uvo d. tmct snakes called by this name in Amenca, P-l-P^ " ore At the north end of Lake Simcoe, m Canada a vane > of snake, excessively numerous there, and w-lnch I should denominate the brown water-snake, was p.nnted out .0 me ^,s a milk snake. In Southern Illmois. Iowa, &c.. a 'handsome dark -blue snake, very rapid in his progression and not at all unlike the common black snake, is alw^> s called a milk snake ; and to both these vanet.es m the "fter.::nt localities, is attributed the crime^of suckmg h cows That the emigrant on Lake buiicoe or the squatter of the Western States believe^ this, there .s no doubt • and like many yarns equally miprobable. they afaccepted, and handed down from father to son, "i hou he Kl.a ever entering their heads to exan.ne ■b ther it be possible. Both the brown and dark-blue A Iluntins: Misadventure. 259 1 is trying to a icncy of animal sscsscd, so that to desist, with ed. For the last [ in fumbling to cmcnt far from c temperament, s as I required, icnces of the fire, tead. I heard the old that suck milk Is, still I cannot /e my reasons for re are two distinct ca, perhaps more. Canada, a variety md which I should 5 pointed out to me uois, Iowa, &c., a in his progression, ck snake, is always ;e variet.es, in their ■ime of sucking the ke Simcoe or the vo this, there is no y improbable, they rem father to son, ■ heads to examine ;own and dark-blue snakes in question live principally o.i frogs, and their teeth are so situated that, when once they lay hold of their victim — if it is large and sufficient to open the mouth to its full extent— they can with difficulty leave go, without cutting or tearing. Now, a cow's teat is of such a size that, if the snake took hold of it, the milk could not be extracted unless the reptile closed its mouth for the purpose of suction, and scarification of the part would be the result. Cattle and horses have a great dislike to snakes, and will not at any time approach them volun- tarily, being able to detect their presence by smell. On the western prairies, where stock-raising is the principal occupation of the farmer, snakes abound, many of them poisonous— such as the rattlesnake, mocassin, copper- head—still it is unusual, owing to this power of scent which stock possess, for an animal to be bitten. Now, can it be for a moment supposed that a cow would sub- mit to an operation that would cause it pain, and that from a creature for whom it has the greatest antipathy ? However, the snakes to which my informant alluded are not the same as those I have mentioned. 1 cannot help believing that whether the reptile was white or black, short or long, this antiquated story is no more than a fabrication. While shooting in this neighbourhood, the person who accomptipied mc, killed a very light slate-coloured snake, nearly six feet long, which he called a milk snake. My attendant assured me that this variety was in the habit of sucking the cattle. But it probably got the appel- lation from its colour, and Imagination attributed to it the milking proclivities. S 2 T All Round the World. 260 impossible stories ; for ""'--•, "'JXcif: Gooc. tions of the Umtod States, as uul as at "'^ '-M'" ^ sue. in the following novel man e 1^;^^^^^ mouth, il forn.s a hoop, and ^f ^^^^ '^;^:;Xity ! Ho^ over rouKdi and smooth ground with great ^e "J ^y ddightful to be coursed by ^-<^Y^T''Xl^^7o^^^^^ disl-iiarK, orbiack a»h TlK first roof ,s gene, ally co P ^^^^^^ ^^,^^^^ ,^ rougWy rwcn n to 1''""^ • ^ ' ,,„„ ,„„gl,t l,im how shingles. ;vl,e„t,,nc^ae.pe„.^^e^^^ straigir,, and many to make them. "' °B; ^,,,,.,,,, „„,t be elosed before aretlKopemngsmhe am ^^^^ ^^^.^^.^^^ ,_„ ., winter sets m. Th.s !> oees ^^^^^^ ,^j,^^ performed ^y'r:!^^^^.^ oler with clay or r.^''""'?,;:^ i B-de on .he noor, and the chimney hme. rl c hie '^ performs its duty, projects which seldom satislactorny 'f,,,, ,„th3 and clay into the room, and s a composuon o^ h ^^^^^^ ^^^ or lime placed in alternate, lyet^^ ^ ^_^^ ^„^ ^„i. windows arc sawn out, a casmg p T , cha'-actcristic \t Iciv^th suffi- nicilc, enough to compose it, ,ut out by tlie ; clcpciuliiig on cnii^nMut have M- six miles arc ii\dyU) "raise" ittemled to, and 1 have the logs id before many J up. But sup- ' off in the forest, d, he must make ver that can be unwieldy logs in nd tedious work, aark, or black ash rds gives place to c taught him how :raight, and many t be closed before chinking, and is ;hips or rude laths 1 over with clay or and the chimney, its duty, projects thin laths and clay lien the doors and t in, and the emi- Om-rr of an J: in a: ran/. '■(^i crranfs fust home is fit fur the recepti.Hi of its future occupants. Tables, chairs, stools, and other interior necessaries are easilj' formed, but <.f curse ihcy are most primitive in construction, still they answe, the pur- pose or must do so until time has given the lab..uier a few good crops, o.- his character for industry and hnuesty has become established at the nearest si. -re. when pos- sibly cre.'^' - obtained. But although the house is up work .es not cease. Morning, noon, and night, the axe must be at work, till -uifficicnt space for the hrst crop is cleared. To accomplish this, not only have the trees to be felled, then cut into logging lengths, llie boughs and limbs lopped off and piled, but possibly the surface of the land has L b. undcrbushed. Those trees that, from their splitting easily, are suitable for rails ;ire saved f<- that purpose, while Lhe others, generall)' throuL;h the assistance of neighbours and their ox-teams, are drawn together, piled one upon another, am. when sufficienth- dry. burned. A good burn can seldom be obtained liU the timber has been cut at least a year oth-rwise the logs have to be piled and replied, fired and ref^red before all are consumed. One thing you cannot get rid of. viz. the stump.. They must be seen to form a correct opinion of their unsightliness ; and worse still, they take years to decay, some varieties of timber lasting an ordinary lifetime. During the process of firing, as log- heaps are frequently built beside .stumps, they get charred and blackened, and burnt into distorted shapes, such as an imaginative mind can fabricate into all sorts of spectres. When the land is fit for cultivation, it has to be fenced. This generally is done by splitting ash, hickory, or elm All RoniuUhc World. i54 ^^_____ i.Uo rouuh rails from tci to twelve feet Ion'.- which arc ;;HeaaLctlc.Lstobcclonccrcalar^^..c^3; hcrcd hilo rails of the rciuisitc size. A fei cc ot bnisn is I imes temporarily e-nployed ; but it .s dangerous o 1 y-.r mlidui crop to such a fra, le e.,:losur CU 1 a ml ho,s arc not easily excluded .rom such ^^i..Uf^HKi;s,rcenwhca^ 30S ss any stock yourself, yet your nc.,hbours iK.ss.bly T-u. las the hab IS of all are very erratic m wild and. tl:;um;ue settler who has trust.^ ny awake in the mornin.r to find the result of all 1 u. S.'-UK1 toil, the hope of his nunilyfi^n^^^^ ubsistence. totally destroyed. To prepare the land after ct i . fo the reception of the first crop.the ashes tha t^::rafter burning are well ^^^^:^jZZ- , ,vheat are to be sown, the>- are ,ener Uly - "--^^-^^^^ . cast, and not unfrequently harro..d -^^^^^"^^^ ,,hen a better implement is '-^ obtainable^ If he m errant have sufficient funds to purchase a yoke <.f cattle, "^ he has learned to drive them-no easy matter- t^^;\ 11 be found most useful ; in fact, the finst purchas ?t should desire to make is a pair o these useful mls-without them I .should deen. it almost an im- " b ity for any one to succeed ; but patience and ^ Sanation will accomplish much. In the mean .me, how are the family livin^v ? what is their food ? I ork, nom-. -a corn-meal-and, believe me. there arc few Ion;:;, which arc I ivstini^onthat 's, till sufficient lab(Mious work, tic mallet, there : lo^ is dismcm- fcncc of l)riish : it is clanRcrous ra^ile eii Insure, itled from such Veil may not j^dibours possibly atic in wiltl land, to a brush fence result of all his y for next year's arc the land after op,- the ashes that ,, when, if oats or y scattered broad- II with a branch ; \ble. If the cmi- : a yoke of cattle, -no easy matter — , tlie first purchase ail- of these useful 1 it almost an im- but patience and In the meantime, their food ? Tork, me, there arc few *'<*•. ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 / o o ■^ V ^ 1.0 I.I i" IM 12.2 If 1^ ""'^ If 1^ 12.0 1.8 1.25 il.4 IIII1I.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 w CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical MicroreproJuctions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques iV Career of an Emii^rant. 265 articles of liuman diet tliat arc capable of beini:^ less metamorphosed by human iiv^enuity than the afore- mentioned. Occasionally a duck, i^n-ouse, or even deer may fall to the settler's gun, and if in the vicinity of water, fish may easilj- be captured. But as a rule, those who devote themselves to field sports become idle and improvident, aud lose caste amon<; their neighbours. A garden has also to be prei)ared, although the variety "that it will produce is not great ; still, potatoes, cabbage, and pumpkins will be found acceptable additions to the table ; beans also can be grown, and arc a useful article of diet, combined with pork, for those who have to work hard in winter. In Yankeelanfl, pork and beans is a standing dish, and, when properly cooked, is not to be despised. In choosing the situation of a residence, high grcnmd should be selected, more especially if on the margin of a river or lake. Freshets will occur on the breaking up of winter, and it is far from agreeable or conducive to comfort to have one or two feet of water in the interior of your dwelling. Sheep can seldom be kept when the country is new, for they form so great an attraction to wolves that these gentr>' are almost certain, sooner or later, to pay them a visit, which will not cease till they have destroyed all. Poultry, if unmolested, Avill do well ; but the skunk, grey fox, and several varieties of liawk, are apt to be trouble- some in their attentions to them, more especially to the young birds and chickens. If one or two of these ma- rauders be occasionally shot and hung up in a conspi- cuous place as a warning to their mates, beneficial results have frequently followed. A disagreeable incident that a66 AH Round the IVorld. leader of the mischief, which is u y ^.^^^^.^^^ a bell attached by a leather collar to he n ec ^ ^^.^^^ of which can. in calm weather, b <^^^^^^ ,,,aing off. With what pleasure have ^}^f^^^\^ ,, ,, of a cow bell ! Every ^^f^^,^, nothing -an's dwelling. ^^ J^^^^^^.^o, speaks so but the deep voice of the »^o"^ homeless emphatically to the weaned and perhai wanderer. i,„4. to nrovidc the neces- Although timber IS abundant to prov _^ ^^ sary quantity of fire-wood ^^ /^J^7;^th, and split, ,^11 labour, for it ^^^^^:^^:r^. door, and and afterwards piled w>thu ay ^^^^.^^^ ^^.^^^^^ .^ the consumption of fuel n. ^^.^ ^^^ sufficient to astonish the ""'"'^;"''"^: ^ '.^.^^^^ the toil that gives an ^ <^^ ^^^^^ l^';:^^:^:^ .^ be used is required to produce it. As ^'^ j^^^ tj^e without grinding, the more -^ f ^^^ ^ ,„y ^rips will settler is to a n.ill so n.- ^^^^^J^^ J^,„,,all have to be paid to it^^^nd b ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^ to be commende^^ fo ^f^^^rable water, a sale may transit. If the mill be on nav g ^.^^^^^^ possibly be found for some of tl e sett i ^^^^^ ^^ ^^.^ Ihus bringing an c^ver-welcome supply ^^^^^ Career of an Emigrant. i57 off of the milch they V. ill be gone )OSsibl-^ the ring- ,y an old cow, has neck, the tinkling heard half a mile icd to the tinkling your approach to ng-place ; nothing tch-dog speaks so perhaps homeless provide the ncces- family's use is no o lengths and split, .ss of the door, and Canadian winter is A good fire always V regret the toil that cannot well be used iible and close the r ; for many trips wmU d's are not generally the means of rapid lie water, a sale may ettler's choice timber, apply of cash to his m be saved by the this takes place in u-m sun causes a thaw mences to ascend the trees, and by tapping or notching the bark of th.; hard maple, and driving in a spill underneath where the nci- sions arc made, a bucket or even more liquid ma,' be obtained in the course of a few hours. The sap is then collected from the rude buckets into which it has fallen, underneath the respective trees, and is deposited in a large kettle to boil ; thus, by degrees the moisture evapo- rates, the remams first becoming molasses, ultimately sugar. Care must, however, be taken that the whole does not boil over ; this can be obviated, if a person cannot be spared to be in constant attention, by hanging a piece of fat pork over the caldron so as to fall a few inches beneath the level of the rim ; on the sap boiling up to the pork, it will cease to ascend any further. Making maple sugar is laborious work when done on an extensive scale, for the trees and fire require constant attention, and collecting sap and possibly having to carry it a hundred or more yards, through slush and brush, is no joke. In the second season sundry out- houses are generally erected, for we will suppose that the emigrant is at length the possessor of a few head of stock. Among these, pigs will probably be found the most remunerative, for they require little or no food, except in winter, and become fat on what they obtain in the bush ; instead, therefore, of having to purchase your supply of pork, it is provided at liome— a saving of the most expensive item in a family's expenditure. The only drawback to the propagation of pigs are their predatory habits and their liability to be eaten by bears. The former proclivity it is almost impossible to prevent ; the latter misfortune must be guarded against by the ^58 All Round llic World. f,L .in »a, for .. co,.idcn*.c ^^-^fTX^^ „„ acceptable addition to "- ''^- ,,;„,,;,, ,„ obtains a rclisl, for porK. day after 'lay = ^^1 CratifyWs appetite, and a young po.Ut " "^t > "^ ,c„a,ry. . have ^'^^f'^I^ZTZZ:^^^ gone with a grist to the mill, xvhiclM as so dormitory and informed me that a bearwa to ,et inL tbe „o«-pcn ■ « 11,1^ f ^r; Mr 'rt",>r „..,„aow before "---;^^,-t*: ,'g on one side ,be paL aid able to.or. bard, to labour n„M a^ ay for -T^^"L-;rti,;i"r"*;i:;:ifofen,igration, " ttbe bKrseo population, farms advance m value, T , ' f are estab ished nearer at band, and the stamp for markets arc csiauiisu vcars of civilisation becomes more apparent. Ihe first year hr er th cl til tl- P' tl ir si t( tl a r li r v f r t 1 — rr, Career of an J:»iii^raitL 169 ic trouble, for the id the flesh make If a bear once r he will desire to ker must pay the ome to a pig-sty on one side, and ir one night in the dation. The pig- a shanty in which ;r and mother had ^ some distance off, ;cted back till the an hour unusually hed into my rude ir was endeavouring gun, I went to the I saw Mr. Bruin, for ng on one side the :)tection against his ning and descended with a porker, when : of an ounce and a )r four yards, anada must be pre- )ur night and day for they go where land I indux of emigration, ■ms advance in value, t hand, and the stamp rent. The first years have been spent in struggling and toiling to make both ends meet ; but during the latter years plenty of food, if that constitutes happiness, is obtainal)le. With some classes this is all that is desired ; with the educated, and those who know the advantage uf mixing with others than boors, I feel confident in saying, their aim in life points a little higher. Courteous Re.vder, — We have now made the tour of the world together. We began our sporting experiences in Scotland, when, as a mischievous school-boy, I slaughtered an unfortunate robin, but by degrees 1 learnt to fly at higher game, and before I left my native land, the antlered deer had fallen a victim to my gun. Going ab'-oad, we have fi.shed in the blue depths of the Mediter- ranean ; we have hunted with a pack of staunch British hounds on the soil of sunny Spain ; we have climbed the rocky hills of North Africa in pursuit of game. Thence, we have passed to India, bjyond all ciuestion the favourite locale of the military sportsman, for there ranges the tusked wild boar, whom we scorn to slay with bullet, but rejoice to spear; there crawls the repulsive alligator, and there lurks the stealthy tiger. In China the game we fi)llowed was of a more inoffensive description, but in th(> Flowery Land, and still more in the fascinating islands of Japan, we were repaid for the comparative tameness of the sport by the interesting character of the country and the people. Then we crossed the greatest ocean in the world, the mighty Pacific, disembarked at T 270 All Round the World. the Golden Gate, the land of auriferous wealth and American enterprise, penetrated into the fastnesses of the interior, encountered the buffalo and the grisly bear amid the illimitable prairies, or the sheltered valleys of the Rocky Mountains, and, lastly, turning' our faces home- wards, we have traced the slow progressive statues where- by the Canadian backwoodsman teaches the gloomy and barren wilderness to smile with abundant harvests y^\ golden grain. Reader, we must now part ; I thank )-ou heartily for your companionship, and wish you a sincere farewell ! THE END. I'KINTKIJ BV WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 111 KE STKEUT, STAMFOkU STKEET, ASU CH\UING CKOSS. / Vorlil auriferous wealth and ito the fastnesses of the I and the grisly bear lie sheltered valleys of urnin^ our faces home- Dgressivc statues where- caches the gloomy and abundant harvests of low part ; I thank you ind wish )-ou a sincere :e stkeut, stamfokd stkket, )SS. / ■I