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Les diagrammee suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■n^ Jr^i^nc) F^^^^6e. ^»«. W A I ffi 31 > » content," but we will patiently wait for the sunshine. 8. JO P. M. Before the lunch gong rang the rain was ''over and gone," and the revivifying sun poured his glory upon scen- ery which grows more and more sublime. All the mountains now are covered with snow. From the sea to the timber line there is the very densest growth of black firs, hemlock, spruce and pine. Above the tim- ber line there is a space of the most brilliant green, which, as the sun shines on it, seems to have a sheen like velvet ; above this is the dazzling snow. Words are inadequate to describe the effect of these contrasts in color, made more marked by the flood of sunshine. Cataracts leap down the sides of these mountains; from the melting snows which give them birth we can trace their descent until they are lost in the blackness of the forest, only to re-appear for a final noisy plunge into the sea. Three glaciers are visible at once on the east side of Wrangell Narrows, and just after lunch we came in 32 h '! sight of the largest, known as Patterson glacier. The Mer de Glace dwindles in comparison vvith it as do the other glaciers of Europe, but it is small, we are told, in comparison with others that we arc yet to see in Alaska. It is named after Carlisle Patterson of the United States Coast Survey. It has a termina- r;ioraine of several miles in \vidth and our Captain says it extends back from forty to sixty miles. Its frozen billows fill all the deep ravine in which it lies. Early in the afternoon we began to notice small icebergs, whose beautiful blue color made every one enthusiastic. **Well!" said a gentleman, " my adjectives are ex- hausted." ''Oh!" said Mr. Ballon, the author of " Due East " and " Due West," who has been through this region before, *'just wait until you get into Glacier Bay. then pall the trigger and let the volley come." Shortly after this our steamer shcked her speed and finally stopped, and we saw far off on the distant waters a speck which, as it came nearer, proved to be the lug-boat of the United States Coast Survey. --**»»» mm 33 1 With considerable enthusiasm, they steamed along side and called for their mail. After a little difficulty a rope was adjusted, on which was run the huge bag of letters and papers, — their only connection in these silent waters with the distant and busy world. Our afternoon was destined to be the time of times to us. Off the course usually taken by the ships which make this voyage lies Takou Inlet; — the side -wheel steamers which have heretofore carried tourists iiave never attempted the entrance to this land- locked sea. We had been heading for Juneau when the ship's prow was suddenly turned in another direction, and it began to be whispered that our Captain and the Pilot had decided that with our screw steamer it was possible to enter this almost unknown sea, and gaze upon the marvels that it contained within its close embrace. Im- mediately, like an electric current, a sup- pressed but possessing excitement filled every one, not the passengers only, but the Captain and those under his command* mamm 34 Every one was on the qui vive; — taking our place on the forward hurricane deck, very soon there appeared a picture which for grandeur exceeded anything I had ever seen. Looking up this comparatively narrow inlet, at its head we saw one snow-capped peak overlapping another until all were lost in the distance. The north wind, for which we had been wishing for days, had come at last, and every thread of vapor was stripped from the sky, and a clearness indescribable pervaded the atmosphere ; in it every object stood out with unusual distinctness, and far- away mountains seemed near enough to reach by a walk. Very, very slowly our ship seemed to feel her way along ; a turn, and we looked fairly into the open sea covered with icebergs ; literally they were innumerable. As we crept on they became larger and more beautiful in color and shape. For fifteen miles we slowly followed this fiord, until we stood still within a r>re.il" basin, where three large glaciers are visible. The first one that we saw is certainly the i !i 35 ♦ 1 most beaut ful. It is a perfect cerulean blue, broken into great billows, down into whose depths the sunshine filtered and flashed, lighting the whole like a fairy dream. It reached to the water's edge, and from it float off the great blue masses — ** bergs of beryl and of sapphire '* into the sea. One of the three glaciers looked gray and dirty, and its mouth was hidden by a turn in the mountain. On the left of this circular bay lies the largest glacier, which sweeps down between two lofty peaks and spreads itself out as it reaches the sea, but it terminates in a moraine of sand, pebbles and bowlders. This river of ice is fully three miles wide, and its moraine about one mile. There is nothing attractive about it but its magnitude, lying as it does like a frozen Niagara be- tween the snowy mountains. Here our steamer stopped — we were in a shut-in sea; no visible way of exit ; the circle of snowy summits rose above us and the three glaciers in front and on either side. We seemed so surrounded by icebergs and so close to the i ; 36 mountains Uiat we were awed, and a sudden misgiving so us. What if our Captain and the Pilot Si.ould not succeed in getting out ? In that almost unknown sea it was possible to imagine terrors, all of which could happen, but even while we feared we found our prow slowly swinging around, until we were stopped by an iceberg that called forth extravagant exclamations of de- light; — certainly nothing more beautiful could be found. It measured 70 feet high and 300 feet long above the surface of the water. All sorts of theories were advanced as to how much of it was under water, but no one spoke with authority, and we were left on that point to our own conjecture. Its blue color varied through a gamut of shades. During its stay in the emerald sea, the water had produced strange and fantas- tic shapes ; in its very heart was a cave of intensest blue, over whose entrance fell drooping pendants of clear ice ; on its sum- mit was the immaculate snow. Silence fell upon the talkers, and it was scarcely broken ; ■ i 9 i I 37 until Mr. E., of Philadelphia, exclaimed, ** Well ! I have been among the glaciers of Norway and Iceland, but I never saw any- thing that approaches this scene; how proud I feel that it belongs to us, that I have an individual share in it." The exuberance of feeling finally found vent in a round of cheers which awakened the echoes. There were many of us, however, who felt as if we were standing in the audience chamber of the Creator, and looking upon a new crea- tion, very far away from the every-day world we had always known. Tears stood in many eyes, and an anthem of praise would better have expressed the pent-up emotion. 10 P. M, This rarest of all days is pass- ing to its close. We feel as if we had lived more than one day. Never *' morning wore to evening" with so rich an experience in the marvelous beauties of nature. In the order of things we ought to be ready to sleep, but the ever-present day makes going to bed a rather difficult thing, even though the ** clock strikes the hour for retiring." f 38 i IP'f 1 If I Saturday y June 22d. We have reached our longest days; in this northern latitude it is almost perpetual daylight. A San Fran- cisco paper advertised this voyage as a •*Trip to the Land of the Midnight Sun." This is not strictly true. The sun departs but the glow that remains is so bright that last night at 11.30 we could read with ease, though it had begun to grow dusky; by 12 o'clock the darkest was reached and then we could tell the time on our watch dials without trouble. Turning north from Takou Inlet, our ship took her course between steep mountain walls, down which came the foaming cas- cades toward Douglass Island. The channel between the mainland and the island is less than a mile in width, and the mountains rise abruptly from the water to the height of two to three thousand feet, with the snow ranges back of them. At Douglass Island our ship stopped long enough to permit us to visit the great Tread well Mine — the largest gold mine in the world. It is an immense dl I, i 39 4 i 1 quartz ledge, with a vein of over four hundred feet. We went into the huge quar- ries and along the underground railroad, by which the quartz is carried into the big mill — the biggest known — where the huge ham- mers are breaking and pounding the quartz before going through the final process of separating the gold from its attending alloys. It is owned by a few wealthy capitalists in California and New York, and bears the name of the young man who started the enterprise. We tried to ascertain the annual output of the mine, but the owners are very reticent, and, of course, the superintendent *Mid not know." They told us, however, that the usual yield is from six to fifteen dollars per ton. From a man in charge of one of the crushers I learned that 6oo tons of quartz are daily passed through the mill. It did not take a very intricate mathematical calculation to find out then how much gold comes out each year. The yield seems in- credible. The whole amount expended on mill, machinery, etc., was about five hundred 40 thousand dollars. This part of Alaska seems lo be rich in mineral wealth, and deposits of gold have been found in many of the mountains that border the islands and shores of this part of the Territory. Other and smaller mines have been opened and are being successfully worked. Saturday, June 22d. The first thing we realized this morning on opening our eyes, having been awakened by the noise of the sailors overhead, was that our ship had surely changed her course, for the sun, which did not usually get around to our side until noon, was shining brightly in our room. At break- fast we learned that the Captain had decided to touch at Sitka before going to Chilcat, our most northern point, leaving it and Juneau to be visited on our return. ii.jo A. M. We are now fairly in the Sitkan Archipelago. The weather is very fine. The sky is full of cumulous clouds, which cast their shadows on the mountains, making delightful pictures. The approach to Sitka is unusually beauti- 41 J ful. The bay on which it stands ioses nothing by comparison with the Bay of Naples. The extinct volcano, Mt. Edge- cumbe, stands like a sentinel here, as Vesu- vius stands by the Italian bay. Innumerable islands, some rugged and bare, others thickly wooded, dot the placid waters as far as the eye can reach. The whole is enclosed by snovvy mountains. A poetic, dreamy haze, floats over all, through which the sunshine glows with a rich mellowness ; it is a picture that would make an artist rapturous. Sunday^ June 2jd. The steamers visit Sitka so seldom that their coming is a great event. By the time we had rounded Bara- noff Island and were fairly in sight of the town, a crowd was gathered on the wharf to give their presence to the work of landing passengers and freight. When we stepped off the gang-plank on to the long pier, the Indians met us with their wares, and they lined the whole way into the town, pushing their baskets and bracelets toward us as we approached, and with an appealing air, but 42 i i ji \m no words, urging us to buy. Most of them were women, who squatted or lay face downward on the wharf, their heads propped by their hands, and enveloped in their blankets. Here many of them stayed all the time of our visit, some, apparently, never moving. Two objects in the town immediately catch the attention — the palace of the Rus- sian Governors and the Greek church. The former stands upon a rocky eminence over- looking the bay, and is a large square build- ing, very plain and rapidly falling into de- cay. The flights of steps leading to it are very much out of repair, and the moss and tangled vines covering them make their ascent a matter of care and caution. When our Government took possession of Sitka, in 1867, this building was splendid in all that appertains to a palace. The Russian Gov- ernors were from the noble families at home, and they brought with them to this far-off Capital, the appurtenances of a princely residence. Here they lived and entertained M 43 handsomely ; they surrounded themselves with comfort and luxury; but since it has been the property of the United States it has been utterly neglected, and despoiled of every vestige of its former splendor. Every- thing has been carried off, both furniture and the handsome belongings of the house itself. We climbed up the rickety steps and found a young soldier of the garrison, who showed us around. In the course of our visit he said he was a prisoner in the old house for several months, this being his punishment for some misdemeanor. In one of the deserted rooms he had set up a camera, and for weeks he had be*^,. amusing himself by taking pictures from the windows; the walls for quite a space, in one corner, were hung with them. On an old packing box, adroitly covered, was spread an unusually handsome Chilcat blanket (which one of our passengers subsequently bought for sixty- five dollars) and other curios. From this room he had swept the rubbish and taken down the festoons of cobwebs. He told us N mmmmmmm 44 J' n li the traditions of the palace, and sliowed us the room where the ghost of the young Rus- sian Princess still comes from time to time, to sob and moan over her untoward fate. She was compelled to wed against her wish, a noble of the Government, while her heart belonged to a young, uncommissioned offi- cer. On her wedding night she disappeared, and was found dead in a small room of the castle, having been shot, it is said, by her unhappy lover. It needed no little imagination to conceive what this old palace had once been, for now the whole is dirty and neglected > so full of rubbish and old stuff that it is anything but attractive. The views from the windows, however, are superb, and wishing to get the whole panorama at once we climbed out on the roof. There lay the Sitkan Archipelago, a hundred little islands nestling in the har- bor, each one a tangle of rock and forest, with green slopes and grassy glades. The westering sun poured over all the scene the molten gold of his nearly level rays. No Venetian sunset was ever more beautiful. •!■■ i 45 r As we went about the town we learned a bit of its history. The bay was first visited by Baranoff in 1799, who built Fort Arch- angel Gabriel, and took possession of the country in the name of Russia. Three years later, the Indians arose and captured the Fort and murdered the officers and many of the men. Baranoff returned, re-captured the Fort, and built also Fort Archangel Michael, and thereafter, until his death, he ruled the colony with a rod of iron ; his free use of the knout kept the Indians and Siber- ian renegades in good order. Subsequently Sitka became the Capital of the Russian dominions in America, and the seat of a bishopric. Its commerce was extensive. There was a brisk trade in furs; a factory turned out wooden and iron ware; an iron furnace smelted the native ores; a bell foundry cast bells and chimes, which were sent along the Pacific coast, especially to Mexico; a ship yard had "ways" for launching vessels of a thousand tons, and the town was a scene of business activity. 11 I i 46 ! All this was changed after the sale of Alaska, or Russian America, in 1867, to the United States, and the consequent removal of nearly all the better class of Russians. It grew duller and more lifeless by a slow descend- ing scale every year, and civilization sank to alnfiOst native wildness. The Indians, unrestrained as )ears slipped by, grew dar- ing and outrageous. In 1879, however, Captain Bardslee, of the Jamestown, was sent there. He seems to have been the first officer who, knowing his duty, was inclined to do it. He cruised through all parts of the archipelago and kei>t the Indians in check, and instituted many reforms, which have been maintained. Captain Glass, his suc- cessor, compelled the native children to attend school, took a census of the population and looked closely after the houses in v/hich they lived, and endeavored by strenuous means to destroy the covert and illicit still? where the poisonous and fiery hoochinoo was brewed. The town to-day, though without commerce, apparently, is a pleasant El I J 47 and wholesome place In which to live. The Captain appointed a police force from the Indians themselves, dressed them in navy cloth, with ** Jamestown " in gilt letters on their caps, and a silver star on their breasts. They were forced to clean their ranches and white-wash and drain them; in a word, order took the place of anarchy. Very soon after landing, we .r.adeour ,vay out to the Mission of the Presbyterian Church, under the care of Dr. Sheldon Jackson. On the road we met the Doctor, who gave up the most cordial greeting. He begged us to go on, saying he would be back very shortl■^ We told him of others on our steame' who, we were sure, would like to see his school and the work he is trying to do; so when he returned he brought with him quite a large party, some of whom had never heard of the mission at all. The cluster of buildings which com- pose it,— the school, the hospital, the resi- dence for the teachers, the cottages built at a small cost for the newly married Indian i i s li 48 couples to live in, the workshops and a large new dormitory, all stand on a hill on the road to Indian River, overlooking the bay, islands and sea, with the mountains rising on three sides. We were greatly pleased with what we saw. The cottages and new dormitory and hospital were all built by the boys in the school. With much pride also we were shown the furniture of these build- ings as specimens of their handiwork. These Alaskan Indians seem very teachable, and capable of attaining a higher plane of life. Being Saturday, the school had a half- holiday, and all the boys were off, but in the carpenter shop we found a young fellow busy with his tools. I asked him what he was making, and in pretty good English he told me he was '^trying to make a box to hold his clothes." All the pupils are taught the ordinary English branches, and while the boys work at house-building, cabinet- making, boat-building, shoe-making, etc., the girls are initiated into the mysteries of house-keeping and sewing. The school is 49 so arranged that each one attends school a half-day and works a half-day. Dr. Jackson was very sorry that he did not know of our coming, that he might have made a little preparation for us ; as it was, however, we had an excellenl entertainment. The great bell on the top of the main building was rung, and the boys and girls, from their fishing and wandering in the woods and by the shore ca trooping in, and we had singing and reading, class in language and a few speeches. The whole mssion frater- nity greeted us as if we were friends who had been long absent. They are o cut off from the rest of the world that our coming was a delight. We found they had hea'-d nothing of the great world beyond e the last steamer, months before. We told them of the flood at Johnstown, and the Seattle fire, and in fact, everything we could think of. The school publishes a little paper, called **The North Star." It is designed to tell of the mission work in Alaska and matters of local interest. The native boys set the I m I type and do the work. The walk from the mission to Indian River is very beautiful. The road lies through the woods, where we found ferns in great variety, and exquisite velvety moss. We picked wild raspberries and salmon-berries, both of which were large and of fine flavor. There were plenty of song birds, which come here in the sum- mer weather. We found many wild flowers. There are said to be over three hundred varieties on Baranoff" Island. We were quite surprised at the size of the buttercups and dandelions, they are twice as large as ours and richer in color. Indian River is a swift mountain stream ; the water is as clear as crystal. The banks are lined with thrifty and graceful alders. A very pretty rustic bridge adds to the romantic beauty of the picture. On a hill oeyond thv^ town is the grave- yard where the Russians buried their dead. I had a curiosity to see it. There was no path, and dodging the cows, (of which Sitka boasts about twenty) which were grazing on I T I \'i' I t\ the slopes, I climbed over the boggy ground and reached the overgrown little cemetery. Rank bushes, ferns and grasses filled all the space between the tombs, few of which re- main intact. The wife of a Russian Prince lies here, her resting place marked by a mutilated tombstone. Utter forgetful- ness and neglect are stamped on this small city of the dead. On the same hillside are a few tombs of the Sitka Chiefs ; their queer little burial boxes looking not unlike child- ren's playhouses, are nearly hidden by the tangled bushes. The Greek Church stands at the end of the main streec, facing the small square, or court. It has a green roof, a dome and bulging spire, a fine clock and a chime of bells, and is exactly like pictures of the churches in St. Petersburg or Moscow. The faded walls and roof, almost destitute of paint, tell a sad story. By the payment of fifty cents we were permitted to enter. A young Russian, one o^ the very few left here, courteously showed us all there was to m 52 i F! ' be seen. We asked him how it was that he remained in Alaska when his people returned to the home country. He replied that he was an only child, and 'at the time the country changed masters, he was just at the age requiring him to serve in the Russian Army. His parents dreading this, had de- cided to live in exile, but keep their son. From him we learned that the Russian Government still supported the church, but that money comes less regularly than in the years past, and that they are therefore obliged to charge a fee of admittance. In olden times the church was very rich, but it had been robbed most outrageously by the United States soldiers on their first coming to Alaska. Much of this Wealth was never recovered. The interior of the church is cruciform, and is richly decorated in white and gold. In either transept are side altars, and the main altar is reached through a pair of open work bronze doors, set with silver images of the saints. Over these doors is a large picture of the Last Supper, the f^ces i I t* 53 painted on ivory and the figures draped in robes of silver. There is a picture of the Madonna and Child on the north altar that is very beautiful.' It was the gift of a Russian Queen. The silvery drapery and the gems which stud it, as well as the exquisite paint- ing of the faces, give it an unusual value. Heavy silver lamps hang from the ceiling, and tali candlesticks stand before the images of the saints. There are no seats in the church, except the bench which runs around the wall, designed for visitors. The vest- ments, each of which has a history, are rich and costly. The Bishop, who used to reside in Sitka, left for San Francisco after the change of government. Through the old stockade gate we passed into the Indian rancherie, a double row of unpainted square frame houses, facing the beach. Here we found plenty of women and children and dogs. The men were off on the fishing grounds. We came upon the houses of Anahootz, the Sitka Chief, and Mrs. Tom. The latter we saw. She is a 51 character and an influence among her neigh- bors, and is as shrewd at a bargain as any Yankee. She has accumulated quite a for- tune in her trading. We went into numer- ous cabins in the search for curios, and were impressed with the eagerness of the natives to make money. They offered us the spoons they were eating with, the ear-rings from their ears, the brooches which held together their scanty shoulder covering, and even the charms which hung about their necks. One of them looked a little bewildered when we made an offer for a pappoose which she car- ried in a loop of her blanket. There are several silver-smiths in Sitka, who fashion the bracelets which are in such demand. We came to the conclusion that there must be a Trades Union here, for the uniformity of prices was remarkable, and there was a positive firmness in the market. Sunday, June 2jd. We did not leave Sitka until 6 A. M. to-day. The matter of the tides is a very important one in winding among the islandsof thisarchipelago. 9 A.M. 1^1 .1 55 • 4 Obliged to anchor, the water being too low for us to proceed. We are between two islands whose image is perfectly reflected in the watery mirror. 10 P. M. Our rest was but short. Be- fore lunch we came in sight of Auk and Eagle Glaciers, which look like frozen lakes on which one might skate; all roughness is lost from the distance, and even the glass did not dispel the illusion. Lakes with mountains of snow rising above them, and dark firs bounding them on the lower side. About 6 P. M. we first saw the lofty peaks of La Perouse, Fairweather and Crillon, the last 15,900 ft. high. vVe are now fairly within the entrance to Glacier Bay, where wonders are to be revealed to us to-morrow. The weather is very fine and the sky cloud- less. Every peak and headland and grim fissure stands out with wonderful clearness. Our Captain and Pilot seem to share the enthusiasm that stirs all the company, for it is rarely that a voyager in this sea has such a view of these mountains. Nine times out of ten there is bad weather. I lE-l ml- 1*^ r 56 The sun is slowly leaving this side of the earth, but his declining rays are touching into flame the snowy summits which burn against the deepening blue of this northern sky. This has been a delightful Sabbath ! The peace of God has descended on the earth and found its way into human hearts, and we have realized the presence of the Infinite. Though the sun is not yet out of sight, still Captain Carroll wants us to retire, in view of our early rising at 4 to-morrow. Our ship has dropped her anchor, and she will wait for the morning light to sail into the wonderland of the great Muir Glacier. Masses of ice are floating all about us and flocks of gulls are flying from berg to berg. A pleasant incident of the afternoon was our meeting the Ancon. We exchanged greet- ings and we feel sorry that her passengers should not be able to see Glacier Bay. Monday, June 24th. We awakened this morning to the glory of a perfect day, and we took it as a gift from the Great Giver of ^^ ■ \ i '■ m every good and perfect gift. Our rising was hastened by gi conversation outside our win- dow, carried on by three French gentlemen who in tones of much apprehension berated our Captain and Pilot for risking the lives of their passengers by sailing so far into the inlet where the glacier meets the sea. Without sharing in the least their fear, but rather delighted that we were still going nearer the majestic object of our desire, we hurried out and were soon on the forward deck with those who enthusiastically watched our slow advance. Huge icebergs seemed to hem us in, and our ship very often stop- ped until a good opportunity offered to give them a push out of our way. Occasionally one would strike us and make the steamer shiver from the blow. Steaming slowly up the inlet, the bold cliff-like front of the glacier grew in height as we approached it, and our awe increased as we drew near enough to hear the strange continual rumb- ling of the sub-glacial rivers and to see the avalanches of ice break from the front and, 08 *! with a roar like the crash of artillery, plunge into the sea. Soundings weie frequently taken, and we still very slowly advanced until we were within probably a quarter of a mile or less of the huge perpendicular wall of ice. Here we dropped anchor, but the masses of falling ice caused us to with- draw to a safer distance, much to our regret. Breakfast, a thing so ordinary and common, came in like an interruption, but we per- mitted it and descended from the sublime to the consideration of a bill of fare. A number of the passengers decided to make the ascent of the glacier, and the ship's boats were soon in readiness to con- vey us to the moraine from which the climb begins. Our boat-load of six had just landed, and we were standing where we had a lateral view of the entire front, when the very largest berg which had yet fallen, and weighing, the Captain said afterward, hun- dreds of tons, fell with a deafening roar into the sea below. It took off a section reaching from base to summit, and caused a tidal f 59 wave that made us run ; a few cameras that had been just placed on the beach met an unhappy fate. Our longing to see something unusual was fully satisfied, and we began our climb in a contented frame of mind. A sharp, keen wind blew in our faces from the unbroken glacier fields, and for two miles we went steadily on, feeling the exercise to be a de- light until we reached the sloping sides of the glacier itself. The surface of the ice is extremely rough and of a dirty white. Vast crevasses and impassible chasms, scores and even hundreds of feet in depth, stopped us from time to time ; we were obliged to go long distances around them in order to get on. We could hear the gurgle and roar of the waters flowing below the surface. The ice cut our rubber shoes into shreds, and when we started to make the descent we scarcely knew whether to cast them offal- together or try and make them serve us a little in the numerous small streaQiS we haa to cross. Our coming down had nothing m ' I 6U inspiriting in it in the first place and nothing easy in the second, so that we found it altogether a different thing from going up. In endeavoring to find a path where the rocks were less sharp and rugged, we took a direction that led us into sloughs of despond. The treacherous, gray, glacier mud, covered by pebbles that looked very secure, again and again gave way under us and we found ourselves thrown down with nothing to help us to our feet again. Sometimes we would sink above boot-tops and even to the knees in the horrid compound. Before we were more than half the way down, the ship's whistle blew, and to our speed we wouUl have added wings, but we were perforce abliged to take it slowly. At the beach we found the Corona's boat with four strong seamen in great rubber boots endeavoring to hold it on the beach, but the turbulence of the waves, caused by the falling ice, made it a very difficult thing. From Prof. Wright's pamphlet on the Muir Glacier, which we came upon in Sitka, r 61 f we take the following facts: ** The glacier enters an inlet of the same name at the head of Glacier Bay. This bay is a body of water about thirty miles long and from eight to ten wide, but at the upper end it narrows to three. The promontory separating it from the Pacific Ocean is from three to four miles wide and contains the lofly peaks of Fairweather, La Perouse, and Crillon. The water front of the glacier is one mile. Nine main streams of ice unite to form the grand trunk of the glacier. These branches come from every direction, and no less thai> seventeen sub-branches can be seen coming in to join the main streams, making twenty- six in all. The ice in the eastern half is moving much more slowly than that in the western half, but a stream of ice five thou- sand feet wide and one thousand feet deep is entering the inlet at an average rate of forty feet per day. The indications that the glacier is receding and that its volume is diminishing are indubitable and numer- ous. So rapidly is it receding that it is t I j 62 probable that at the time Vancouver visited the region in 1794, and judging from his notes, the ice extended nearly to the mouth of the bay. The perpendicular height of the glacier at the water's edge is three hun- dred feet." These figures differ from those of Prof. Muir, who first explored the gla- cier. He says that it measures three miles across the snout or front, where it breaks off into the sea, — that ten miles back it is ten miles wide and that sixteen tributary glaciers unite to form this one great ice river. Our morning had been one of strange ex- hilaration; the afternoon was quietly, indeed languidly, spent in our easy chairs, watching from the stern the receding glacier and tak- ing in the sublimity of Fairweather and Crillon. These had not received their due attention, owing to the overpowering at- traction of the glacier. We did not even care to talk. The utter relaxation which is apt to come after such high toning as we had had for the past eight hours, now had pos- session and we yielded. We glided out of 63 the bay as carefully as we had entered, quite often stopping the machinery that collisions with the masses of loose ice might be avoid- ed. In these masses we traced a perfect menagerie of animals, from the elephant to the toad. The water seems to play pranks with the ice, washing it out into myriad shapes. Tuesday, June 2Sth, At 11.30 last even- ing, by the ship's time, while it was still light, we passed Davidson's and Rainbow Glaciers. At 12 we cast anchor in Pyramid Harbor, off Chilkat. During the early morning, up to the time of our leaving Chilkat, our vessel was dis- charging her cargo of freight designed for the Pacific Canning Co., which has estab- lished its headquarters here. Huge lighters came alongside to receive the stuff, and canoes brought numbers of the Indians to sell their wares on board the ship. I'he Chilkats are among the best workers among the various tribes of Alaska Indians, and with the Hydahs make some very pretty 11^ III Sf 1 1 I » ■ «4 things. A Chilkat blanket, quite small in size, but made out of the long wool of the white goat, was sold to a passenger for ^65, the squaw wiic had it asked $70 for it. There are a few primary colors in which they €xcel, yellow seeming to be their favorite. Bracelets and finger rings were disposed of very quickly and at very good prices, for though far away from civilization and brought into contact with purchasers only when the steamers touch here, yet they have learned the trick, of the white man, and they not only ask good prices but stick to them. Offer them something less and they imme- diately put on an utterly stupid expression and say nothing ; you think they give way, and the lesser sum is offered, in an instant the article is whipped back into the old rag, or oily basket, or skin bag and you see it no more, until with a coaxing expression the purchaser says, " Well ! how much was it?" and with an exasperating imperturbability they will not deign in words to say the price, but they hold up their fingers, and the bar- •t-.. 65 gain is completed. To-day they brought in bunches of the most beautiful wild roses, wet with the rain, and we seized upon them with delight at ten cents a bunch. A gentle rain has ueen steadily falling, not heavily, but just enough to bring out the odors of the pines and sprrces which make up the primeval forest here. Around Pyramid Bay quite a settlement is started, and the ship's boats carried a number of our people over to the two shops which are there in the hope of finding curios. Our course to-day has been through the Lynn Canal — now narrowing, now widen- ing. The clouds have hung low on the mountains, the snow peaks coming out clear above them. In going from the head of Lynn Canal down to Junes^u, a distance of about eighty miles, nineteen glaciers of large size are in full view from the steamer's deck, but none come down far enough to break off into the water and give birth to icebergs. It is not possible to describe the beryl-like blue of i : II ■ j i :• i i ^w V wS\ . f.' \\ i I i 1 ] ; m i ' 1 ~ 1 ; : 1 ', 1 P 1 \ III 1 1 'cE w *^ 1 66 these glaciers, especially as contrasted with the dead white of the upper expanse of snow. At 6 P. M. we reached Juneau. The rain had ceased, but it had made the road lead- ing into the town so muddy that several vehicles were hopelessly stuck ; our ludi- crous efforts to pick our way so that we might not founder in the same inglorious way, seemed to afford the natives unusual amuse- ment. The sight of the town is very pictur- esque, being at the base of an abrupt mountain cliff, down which pour several silver cascades. It promises to become the metropolis of Alaska, owing to its proximity to rich mines. The shops are varied and well stocked. We were told that there are fifteen hundred white men and twelve white women in the town, the other two thousand being Indians. The native women are very ugly, and to their natural homeliness they add a smearing of seal oil and lamp black. Knowing that the Presbyterian Church has a mission here, C. M. L. and 1 went to find it. By mistake we called first at the home of 67 Rev. Eugene Willard, the missionary, in- stead of at the Mission House as had been our intention. Mrs. Willard, a very pleas- ant, but rather delicate looking little woman, opened the door, and with the most gracious smile immediately invited us in before we had time to state our errand, or apologize for our mistake. Our inquiry had been, when the door was opened, '*Is this the Mission?" '*No, but it is just the same. Come right in." From this devoted little woman, her husband being away, we had, in a delightful conversation of an hour, a brief history of their missionary work from the time they had, a young married couple, left home and come out here as Missionaries to the Indians. Their work lay at first on the Chilkat Peninsula, which lies between Chil- kat and Chilkoot Inlets, both of which nar- now into rivers and run miles up into the mountain. On the Peninsula, which at its iower end is only a few miles wide, are fif- teen villages, each the home of a fierce tribe, with its commanding Chief. So con- T ii J' * [I 68 stant have the wars and feuds been between these tribes, that the very name Chilkat has become a synonym for war and blood-shed. The T'linkit language is the only one that is common to a majority. The uppermost village on Chilkoot River is considered by its tribe to be impregnable. The river at this point is very wide and exceedingly shallow, and Mrs. Willard graphically de- scribed their journey thither ; as the water was too shallow to float their canoe, they had to walk the last thirty miles and drag it after them. After the work was quite es- tablished here they were called to start the Mission at Juneau. Mrs. Willard says that the greatest trial they ever had among the Chilkats was the leaving them. Amid immense discouragements and set- backs, the Mission at Juneau was founded. By personal labor the Church, the Home and the Manse were all built. Mr. Willard and his Indian boys doing the heavy work, and Mrs. Willard the painting and papering and a hundred other lighter jobs. These II I f : I 6^ ijgas e buildings stand on the hill and command a fine view of the harbor and the snow-capped mountains behind, ihe roar of whose cata- racts disturbs the sweet stillness of the place. The Mission has thirty pupils— twenty boys and ten girls > all the latter are very young, five being under four years. The cupidity and avariciousness of these tribes- have resulted in the revolting custom of sell- ing their daughters when they reach the age of twelve years, inta a life that is worse than slavery. Turning from the main part of the town, where one sees only too many evi- dences of low life, it is refeshing to climb the breezy hill to the Mission building. The view is inspiring, and doubtless is often like a revivifying draught to these dear missionaries who find so many discourage- ments in their work. In trading with the natives here we found one very amusing and yet rather annoying custom. Not infrequently, after making a bargain with the husband for some trifle or curio, and paying the money, his wife would come and order him to give us the money 70 and take back the article. To this interfer* ence he always submitted in silence and we were perforce obliged to do the same, as we were not fluent in either Chinook or T'linkit. We were told that in important contracts the same rule prevails, and traders are obliged to yield for the sake of peace and their future trade. The woman thus holds apparently the veto power in all money transactions. How much authority they have in other matters I did not find out. It was II P. M. when we reached the steamer. We cannot seem to get used to the perpetual daylight, and we are thus al- ways over-stepping the proper bounds of what we usually call a day. At midnight we steamed away from Juneau ; the whistle awoke the finest echoes we have yet heard in Alaska. Wednesday, June 26th, The sun gladdens sea and sky with his rays once more. Yes- terday was the only wholly cloudy day that we have had. We greet the sunshine with joy and find it good to be on deck once more. We are now on our return voyage, 71 and have just seen Patterson's Glacier for the second time. The delusion of a frozen river which, ere it had congealed, was bro- ken into cascades, is most complete. From the deck of the steamer we traced the windings of the stream between the mountains. It is vast in proportions, though partly hidden by the moraine which it has raised. *' Three or four miles back from its front rises a wall of solid ice nearly one thou- sand feet in height." The sun shone full upon it and brought out its frosty and opaline colors. Its blue billows sparkled in the gold- en light. An old lady standing next me on the deck said, *^That fall in the middle of the river, surely it is flowing water !" " Ye ice-falls ! ye that from the mountain's brow Adown enormous ravines slope amain, — Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice And stopped at once amid their maddest plunge ! Who made you glorious as the gates of heaven ? Who bade the sun Clothe you with rainbows ? God ! let the torrents, like a shout of nations Answer, and let the ice plains echo God ! n 72 h, ' fii Our next excitement was the passage again •of Wrangell Strait, where the rapid waters run through a channel so narrow that the utmost care was exercised to keep our ship, whose draught is only five feet, from ground- ing. Wrangell, our next stopping place, is ad- vantageously situated on an island at the mouth of the Stickeen River, which rises in British Columbia and has a length of nearly two hundred miles. The little town has a capacious harbor. Lofty, snow -crowned mountains break the sky line in all directions. Like the other Alaskan towns, it rambles around the bay and is nearly a mile from -end to end. The Indian huts here are more interesting than any others that I have seen. They are low, about twenty feet square, and built of rough-hewn logs. In the middle of the heavily pitched roof is an opening sev- eral feet square, and directly beneath, on the ground, huge logs were piled, and in €very case an excellent fire was burning, watched over by old, toothless, wrinkled 73 women, whose matted gray locks and palsied limbs, scantily clothed, made them pitiable objects. In two of the cabins a small table, like a child's toy, stood near the fire, with tea-cups and a tea-pot. The fire is a great purifier, and carries off much of the stench which constantly offends the olfactories of one not born to it. Dirt and degradation and abundance were combined. Plenty of fish were hung up to dry, and grease covered everything. Dirty and unwashed dishes, full of the blackened grease, stood about in every hut we entered. Evidently there is no idea of comfort from cleanliness. Around the interior run two, and sometimes three, platforms, (connected by rude steps) on which are to be found the beds, chests, etc. Chairs there are none; neither stools nor benches. Men and women sit upon their haunches, and the missionaries told me fchat one of the most difficult things to teach them is to sit on chairs. In one place we were invited to the upper gallery where the squaws of the hut. had out all their treasures h, ] ii 3 ; I U ^' i 74 ^ of bracelets, spoons, baskets, etc. One of these huts belonged to the Chief of the tribe, whose daughter, ** the Princess," married Kadeshan, an excellent fellow, who is build- ing himself a white man's house, with bay windows. He has already set up the totems of his and her family at the front door. Having been introduced to him by Judge Shackley, who has been our fellow passenger from Sitka, he invited us to his new home and showed us his father's totem, three hundred years old, which he keeps within the house, also two hats designed for the dance which are curiously ornamented with seals' tails and reptiles. The hut of **the Princess," where they are now living, was, if anything, more littered up with old trumpery than any we had seen, and **the Pr'ncess " herself a little crosser than the other crones who seemed to have the fires- under their protection. On the steps of the Chief's house we found quite a lot of gray mica slate set full of big garnet crystals, brought from Garnet Creek, near the Stick- I h •■c... «en River. The totem poles are a great curiosity and full of interest. They are cedar posts, very tall and ingeniously carved. They represent the genealogy and mythology of the family, which always takes its descent on the female side. The crow or raven stands at the top as the superior, the creator and first of all things. We enjoyed the walk thoroughly along the wandering grass grown lane or street, over the bridge to some old huts where rare and curious totems are still standing. It seemed to me that the ancestor who set them up must have had a sense of humor, for on the top of one of the poles is balanced a bear who certainly seemed to be laughing at what he looked down upon. The Presbyterian Church and Mission School are the pleasantest houses in Wran- gell. The present pastor, Rev. Mr. Mackey, was with us during our stay. He told us he had an average congregation on Sundays of four hundred Indians. It was here that the first attempt of an Evangelical Church to reach the natives was made, when Mrs. A, fll R. McFarland landed in their midst in 1877; for a year she was the only white woman here, and for the most of that time the only Protestant Missionary in Alaska. She had had large preparation for this work m her long missionary life on the frontiers. After ten years of service in Illinois, she and her husband went to Santa Fe, New Mexico, the first Presbyterian Missionaries to that Territory. After this they went to work among the Nez Perces Indians, where hard work and a severe climate caused an illness from which Mr. McFarland did not recover, and he passed to the laborer's reward above. Alone the devoted wife came to this new field. Dr. Jackson says of her, "That all the perplexities — political, religious, physic- al and moral — of the native population, came to her for solution, and her arbitration was universally accepted. She was their physician when sick and took charge of the funeral when they died. She was the peace- maker between husbands and wives. If feuds arose among small tribes or families r I \ 77 f she was arbiter; if difficulties arose as to property, she was judge, hiw>er and jury. When the Christian Indians called a Con- stitutional Convention, she was electeti chairman. Great chiefs li^ft their homes and people, and came long distances to enter the school of ' the woman who loved their people,' or to plead that teachers might be sent to their tribes." She was greatly assisted rn her work by Clah, a con- verted Indian, the story of whose beautitul life is still fr^-sh and green in the Mission here. The school is industrial, as those are at Sitka and Juneau. On an island in the bay stand the govern- ment buildings; here Judge Shjckle> has his residence. For a time the U. S. troops were quartered here, hence the town is often called Fon Wrangell. Thursday, June 2jih, The morning is soft and mild ; a pleasant summery haze lurks among the hills and like a gauz ail tones down the intense blue of the sky. We are once again within the British Do^ V \ t^.- A ' I '■ ! n minions, running twelve knots an hour down Granville Channel, between Pitt Island and the main land. We shall very soon reach Princess Royal Island. The snow-capped mountains have almost entirely diappeared, and given place to lower and well-wooded hills. . Now and then a rugged granite peak starts up without verdure of any kind. While at Chilkat we discovered the bright yellow green which covers so many of the moun- tains in Alaska, above the tree line, to be a prickly shrub with broad leaves, from which, as well as from the stalk, protrude thorns big and little; this is called by the natives, T/ie DeviV s Walking Stick. Just after dinner we crossed Milbank Sound again, and our good ship had quite a tossing from the heavy swells which here sweep in from the sea. Having discharged her freight she was much more at their mercy than before. As if to compensate us for the withdrawal of the mountains, nature treated us this 79 evening to a wonderfully beautiful sky, and crowned it all by an unusual sunset. The numerous islands lying in the distant west looked as if they were covered with sifted gold, the sea was all aglow with color, and the hills on the horizon had a purple sheen upon them. Just while we were all looking at the scene, a whale began to spout, and the two jets which he threw quite high into the air seemed like amber dust ; then the huge fellow lifted himself quite out of the water and disappeared as though he had spent his energy in that one exhibition. Friday, June 28th. Between midnight and 4 A. M., we crossed Queen Charlotte's Sound. Most of the passengers were awakened by the rocking and the noise of nK)vable things that shifted with the motion of the ship. I P. M. This has been the only really disagreeable day of our voyage ; a cold rain has been driving into our most sheltered places on the deck, and we have been tui'ccil I . ; SO !! \ to the quiet of our staterooms, or the busy ihum of Social Hall. C. M. L. lias been busy with his letters, while I have spent most of my odd moments in doing our packing, anticipating thus a leisure for the bright day to-morrow, when to be inside would seem like penance. All day we have been running through Johnston's Strait, with Vancouver's Island on our right. 8 P. M. About three o'clock this after- noon the wind increased to a gale, and the sea became very rough. Owing to our hav- ing no freight on board, not even the weight of the coal, the ship is not nearly so steady as on our voyage northward. As the day declined the wind increased, and in conse- quence, the waiters at dinner rested their hands in their jacket pockets and gazed sadly at the empty seats. We feel that this is the place to put into practice the old saw, which fell so often unpleasantly on our childish ears, '* Early to bed," etc. Saturday, June zgth. When we awakened this morning we were at the pier at Nanaimo, \\ 81 According to Captain Carroll's plan we were merely to '* touch here," (a ''touch here" in a sailor's parlance is a comparative term) for coal, for as he said, "It is all ready for us and it will take no time to dump it into the hold, and we will be off for another visit to Victoria." Alas for his plan and ours! Though the contract had been signed long before, that on this day so many tons of coal vvere to be ready for the Corona, yet when a quondam vessel, a few hours before we reached here, entered the port and begged for the coal that had been especially mined for us, assuring the superintendent that it was not possible that we should arrive to-day^ the obliging man yielded; so our day was spent in this rather uninteresting place. During the leisure of our stop we learned something of the coal supply of Alaska. Nature seems to have provided this great Territory with an almost unlimited quantity of fuel, both in the form of coal and wood, each of which is easily available, both as re- gards the quality and the convenience of n ; t ; t 1 i f ■!.'' ' .1 location. Captain J. W. White, of the United States Revenue Marine, says: *'I have seen coal veins over an area of fortv or fifty square miles, so thick that it seemed to me one vast bed. It is of an excellent steam producing quality." Iron seems to lie in close proximity to the coal, so that there should be a sure foundation for com- mercial prosperity in the future of this new Eldorado. The coal is soft, easily mined, and so close to the shores that it is no difficult thing to ship it. We waited while they mined the quantity necessary to carry our steamer on her next voyage. The little cars, each holding two tons, came and went, run- ning out on a narrow guage track to the end of the long pier, whence, by an ingenious arrangement, their contents were turned in- to the hold, which very soon began to look like a mine itself. We spent the time in wandering along the pleasant beach, making little detours into the groves near by. The town lies back from the bay, but a picturesque 1 83 group of houses are here nestled close to the shore. They all have luxuriant gardens and are covered with flowering vines. In spite of our disappointment we have enjoyed the day. The air has been soft and balmy, and nature has again proven her power to charm and please. Our sail this afternoon has brought us again within sight of the superb Olympian range, which throws back the purple glow of sunset like a great prismatic wall. We shall make no stop at the towns on Puget Sound but sail straight to our des- tined port. Sunday, June joth. All hands — passen- gers and crew — were astir very early this morning; indeed, from the sounds that ever and anon disturbed our slumbers, we con- cluded that somebody must have been up all night." With returning consciousness came the almost unwelcome thought that this delightful voyage was nearly ended ; also a realization that we had something to do ere we and our belongings would be ready to disembark. I it i * t I I 1 I 3 i i i 1 1 1 J i 1 ! i 1 1 I We are within sight of Tacoma. Adieus are being said on all sides, and very soon the contented and happy party which for two weeks has made the population of this little floating world, will leave the pleasant ship for their severally divergent roads of business or of pleasure. For ourselves we are grateful that it is the Sabbath, and that open Church doors invite us to enter. We have an offering of thanks- giving to lay upon His altar, who, through perils of many waters has brought us again to our desired haven. '^^?aa