IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // p.- 1.0 I.I 'in 1121 112.5 illtt 1116 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 •^ 6" — ► V, AN "Q EXCURSION TO AL/ISKA BY THK ^ NADiAN Pacific Railway ERNEST IXGERSOLL tLLXTSTR^TKID ■ *i' ISSUKIJ HY rASSENGER DEF'ARTMEN'i' CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY MONTREAL 1^87 fCl J \ ~\s { '/ ^ "i.s ^'1 •n;'m «• .A ■ ■ *"' I. » ' In Excursion to Alaska. X f. •J c Ma X a: ? r^jTHAT a large portion of the ftlobe, easily accessible, remains /^ almost unexplored, is sure to be interesting information ^ to intelligent people everywhere. The world now seems a very small, and pretty well-kuown sort of place. Kegions that a few years ago were considered bej'ond civilization, not only, but outside of knowledge, have ])een descril)ed, photoi^raphed and mapped in so rapid succession, that little seems left to reward a tourist in search of novelty. Yet iu the coast-region of Alaska exists a vast area of novel scenes, glorious landscapes and inflnite opportunity for sport and adventure, as yet un- marred by the contact of civilization. That this quarter of the world should have remained almost unvisited until this time, is not due to its remoteness so much as to the erroneously popular impres; ion in regard to it. The prevalent idea of Alaska is, that it is excessively distant, to be reached only after a voyage through gale-swept seas, and that its attractions are limited to volcanoes, beach-dwelling Indians of a peculiarly degraded sort, and a fur-trading post or two. The coast is considered a region of rain and general desolation, and the interior a waste of ice and snow. But the Alaska of this picture is only its arctic border, where Eskimos chase the walrus, whalers occasionally land, or a few agents look after tlie fur-seal on the far Aleutian islets. It is no more a true account of all Alaska than a description of the Orkneys would justify a condemnation of all Great Britian. Along the southern part of Alaska, and upon the coast of British Columbia, there extends a series of archipelagoes, where Ay KxcuntiioN to alaska. the climate is like tliat of England, and whore, even in winter, gales seldom rnfHe tlie land-loclved sounds ; wliere vegetation flourishes witli peculiar luxuriance ; where an extraordinary na- tive population interests tlie student of liuman nature, and offers to tlie collector a wide clioice among curious implements and fabrics ; and wliere scenery, majestic and beautiful in the highest degree, is presented at every league of advance. Hitherto "this wonderland and dxcamland by day, this fairy- land by night," as one enthusiast declares it, has been inaccessi- ble, save by accompanying an occasional trading-boat; but now the enterprising managers of the Pacittc Coast Steamship Company have begun a regular service of comfortable steam- ships, which opens these new waters to every touri-st who has a few weeks to spare for the voyage. These steamers are reached at Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, by the Canadian Pacific Railway to Vancouver, its western terminus, and thence by ferry to Victoria. The Alaskan steamers are the Olympian, Idaho and Ancnn — all fine boats; and they leave Vic- toria according to the schedule printed in the appendix to this pamphlet. The purpose of this little book is to describe the pleasures and advantages of a trip to this new and glorious corner of the world, and how to enjoy them. I feat<^i*i!>eaCfi;^-^ifc'^'»"''vTt>'"'v.'J'«"a^ft'|i»i'|i''-r''^^ ^;AV.V.,/^>^,MPV..V.-A.-A<.?^.B^|^^^^^ ;;i^^^fep . II. I N English traveller may cross the Atlantic by steamships ^IJ running directly to Quebec or by tlie various lines to New '"^ York and Boston. Should he choose the steamsliip to Quebec, he will pass through the straits of Bellisle, witli Labrador on the riglit hand and N**wfoundland on the left, cross tlie northern part of the gulf of St. Lawrence, witliin siglit of forsalven Anticosti, and enter the mouth of tlie great river of Canada. Both shores of tlie St. Lawrence soon come into i)lain view, rising into lofty hills, and dotted with villages of wliite houses clustering about a church, whose spire and bright tin roof make it a striking object in the well cultivated landscape. The approach to Quebec brings him into view of the great rock upon the sides of which that city is built, crowned by those fortifications which have made it for nearly three centuries the stronghold of Canada. For one hundred and fifty years it was a citadel to the French population, who were the original colonizers of Canada, and since the English conquest it has been sustained as a fort and garrison almost as impregnable as Gibraltar. Tlie city, in its lower part at least, looks as if it might have been transported bodily from some Norman town of mediaeval date. A nearer approach, however, reveals important modifica- tions. Here are long wharves, warehouses and shipping facil- ities befitting a modern port, together with tlie tracks, stations and warehouses suitable to the eastern terminus of a railway stretching hence in one unbroken line more than three thousand miles to the Pacific coast of the continent. After pausing a day or two to see Quebec and its historical and picturesque surround- ings, the traveller is ready to proceed to Montreal, on the St. Lawrence, nearly two hundred miles above Quebec. Montreal is the largest city in Canada (200,000 inhabitants), and Qne of the most stately, energetic and wealthy in America ; and it may properly be regarded as the initial point for the jour- ! T THE JoVnXEY TO MOSTIIEM. ncy in \'it'W. IlillKT would couu' Iravollors wlio luul UukU'cI in Utilirax. Boston or New York. From lliilifux tlic joiirnov is an overland passaire l)y rail through New IJrunswiek and along tlie Frencliy south sin)re of the St. Lawrenee for thirty-six hours. From Boston, Montreal is reaehed l)y a day's (or niulit's) ride tlirouiih tlie heartoi" busy New Fnuland, and overor throunii the Wliite Mountains, — a urouj) of beautiful elevations eulminatiuijf in the rui'-'^ed i)eak of Mt. Washiiiiiton, r),()r)4 feet JiiLih. Throuirh- out their giens prosperous aiirieultural villages, great suimner hotels, and a hundred fashionable pleasure resorts exist, wliieh are thronged in sunnnc^r by thousands of loiterers, eseaping the confinement of city life. The journey from New York to Montreal is likewise a day's trip by rail, tlie route passing along the Hudson river for two hundred miles, thence through the famous watering-i)lacc, Saratoga, and linally along the shore of Lake Chaniplain, where many a lierce struggle between the English and French prepared the way for the concjuest of Canada in 175!). Or, as far as Albany, N. Y. , this journey may be made in a steamboat, ascending in daylight the famous Hudson river, — the Khine of America. riT. ;()\TI{I«:AL, tlion, iis the focus of all tliose routes of ap- i.1\- J proacli, l)oc(»nj<'.s the rendezvous for the tour to Alaska. Ilcri' is the lieadiiuartcrs of the ('auatliau I'acillc Hail- way; and hero are made up the transcontinental trains which run over that line to \'ancouver, its terminus on the I'acitie, where the steanisiiip journey about to be described will begin. This transcontinental train, in wliich the traveller w ill spend four and a half days, is worthy a moment's description, since it is important for him, before undertaking.? a journey of this lenuth, to know tliat he may do so in the highest degree of com- fort ever oltere(l in a public conveyance. The (.'anadian Pacilic's railway and navigation service, now reaehing continuously from Quebec to China and to Alaska, is no small matter-of-chance all'air. but one operated by a powerful and solid corj)oration, with whose interests the interests of Canada, not only, but of the whole British empire are closely interlocked, and one. therefore, which cannot allbrd to be poorly constructed or imperfectly e(piii)ped. In the passenger service, esi)ecially, are safety and comfort the watch-words. The heating, ventilation and illumination of the cars are most excellent. Everv first-class coach is built, outside and in, of polished mahogany, and the decorations and uphol- stering are after tlie most tasteful patterns. Each one has vestibule doors and double windows, excluding drafts and dust, seats of a new and easier kind, and lavatories supplied with water and towels in i)lenty. It is in the sleeping, dining and parlor cars, however, that the tourist will take most interest, and will note the greatest advance. The sleeping cars (which run through without change from Montreal to the Pacific) are of unusual strength and size, with l)erths correspondingly enlarged. The back and arms of each seat are softly ui)holstered, and the back is so high as id I of ap- Jaska. • U'dW- which 'ac-itic, 'ij:iii. spend ;iiu'e it )f this if com- e, now a, is no (werful ests of closely ; poorly fort the [ of the outside upliol- )ne has id dust, 3d with that tiie 2;reatest cUanne lid size, arms of h as t'j e:.eoaa^c£: of thh caiis. 9 forma perfect iiead-rest. The upper I) -rths have vent 11 it )r-i.:iil wiii(h)ws, and tlie curtains of each tier of hcrtlis an; separate. In the centre of the car four sections b/com.' sofas instead of transverse seats durin*^ the day. Finally, eacli car is provided with a batli-room. A DINING-CAIt. Dininir cars, marlvcd bv manv ini|)rov('nK'nts antl excellencies in ])oth furniture and cuisine, accompany the transcontinental expresses. In elej^anceof design and furniture, nothing to approach these sleeping, parlor and dining cars has ever l)een seen. Tiieir ex- terior is polished red mahogany. The interior is an arrangement 10 AN EXCURiilON TO ALASKA. of rcMl ni;ili()i2:aiiy and satin-wood, liand-carved vvitli tlio jjjrcatest profusion of decoration, yet in the simplicity of true art. The glass in the roof, ventilators, doors, etc., is cut or cast in pleasing tiirures and moderate colors ; wliile lamps, bertli-locks and other pieces of metal work, are all in old brass of artistic design. A SLEEPINO CAR. est Mie 11 ;i ler *r%s^'* IV. ET us suppose tlie traveller to have found his place in one of the sleep inij: cars on such a through train as I have described. Leaving Montreal and its quaint French suburbs, the train soon enters the valley of the Ottawa and runs along this beautiful river, sometimes in sight of its lake-like expansions, and m four hours reaches Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, occupying a rocky bluff overlooking the Chaudiere falls and the vast extent of rafting and timber yards beside them. A day's halt at Ottawa would be well spent, for the city contains many interesting features. Beyond Ottawa, one sees through the whole of a day's ride the real " nortli woods," — forests of sturdy trees, amontr which scores of active villages are springing up, devoted to lumbering and farming. All tlie novel operations of tree-cutting, rafting and lumber-making, entertain one as he speeds along. Every few miles some lively river is crossed or a woodland lake invites the sportsman. These woods and clearings are full of game; every stream and lakelet abounds in fish, and certain stations have, become special resorts of anglers and gunners. Lake Nipissing is the best-known of these, and is increasing in popularity. By and by the forest parts toward the south and the boundless spaces of Lake Superior break into view, — blue and sparkling to the horizon. Sometimes the track is close to the water's edge, sometimes high upon the granite ledges. Fantastic masses of gray rock rise everywhere, heaped in rugged piles, here draped with the sombre accompaniments of the pine woods, tiiere adorned with vinery, flowers and (cascades. From such a land you gaze off upon the sea-like stretch of the heaving lake and its shipping, until the irouty Nepigon is passed, the purple headlands of Thunder cape appear, and you reacli Port Arthur. Between Port Arthur and Owen Sound, Out., on Georgian bay (a part of Lake Huron), runs a line of steamships owned by the (-anadian Pacilic company and connecting with the Ontario m LAKE SUPERIOR AND WINXIPEa. 13 systjin of railways. These steamers are in size and appearance ocean craft. They wore built on the Clyde, of steel, are lighted by electricity, furnished witli every modern appliance and lux- ury, and able to make a liigh rate of speed. In summer this is tlie more agreeable route to tlie Northwest for those who enjoy tlie water. The journey is by rail from Que])ec or Montreal (either directly or by the way of Ottawa) to Toronto, whence a delightful side trip across Lake Ontario to Niagara Falls may be made by the expenditure of a day's time. From Toronto, a pleasant ride in the cars through the orchards and hills of Grey and Bruce counties conducts to Owen Sound, where immediate connection is made with the steamer twice a week. The course is across the northern end of Lake Huron, up the charming water-defiles leading to the Sault Ste. Marie and past its falls by means of locks whore the steamer is lifted to the level of Lake Superior. Tliis gives time for "a run ashore" where there is much to interest, and then follows a refreshing sail of about twenty hours upon the most spacious of inland lakes. From Port Arthur to AVinnipog the railway crosses a wilder- ness of rocky woods, ponds and rivers, valual^le for its mines and timber, through whose intricacies fur-traders have guided their canoes for 250 years. Yet the primitive wilderness retains hardly'a trace of this long acquaintance, and the Chippewas who come out of their bark lodges or pause in their paddling to watch the train go by, are in appearance the same wild redskins with whom Du Lutli treated and Marquette prayed. Winnipeg is a Chicago so far as 30,000 ambitious people are able to make it. Fifteen years ago it was merely the fur-trading post of Fort Garry, hundreds of miles from anywhere. To-day it is the focus of seven radiating railways, and is striding on without a thought of limits. Here the party is iikely to be in- creased by travellers from the Mississippi \alley who have come northward from Chicago and St. l*aul. Westward from Winnipeg spreads a thousand miles of open and productive plains, — the wheat-prairies of Manitoba, the green uplands of Assiniboia, and Alberta's broad pastures. u A.Y EXCURSION TO ALASKA. i During the first day large active villages are passed, farm- houses are always in sight, and the "flowery mead" is check- ered w,ith ebon squares of " upturned sod or the emerald and gold of grain. Later, the villages diminish and the farms be- come fewer, at least near the road, which has now ascended to a iiigher, though by no means a sterile region. This is the old burt'alo range, and their trails mark the prairie in long lines. 'Die buflalos have disappeared, but wild fowl throng about the many lakes, and antelopes raise their heads as the train rolls into view, and then hurry away. Before you are weary of the plains a new object greets your eyes and holds them, — the far white peaks of the Rockies, curvhig in a vast semi-circle around the western horizon; and at Calgary, the populous head-(iuarters of the grazing industries, whose cattle and sheep ranches extend over hundreds of square miles along the foothills, you are right at the l)ase of the great front-range which towers up, a few miles beyond, in an appar- ently impregnable wall of ))lue and white. And now all tliai has gone before dwindles into insignificance. Three ranges ol" prodigious mountains are to be crossed, before the interior of British Cohnubia *s reached: and when you have descended tlie last western slope there remain three hundred miles of scenery so fine, along the canons of the Fraser, river, that it alone would )3e sufticient reward for the journey. Do not try to take all of this in one unbroken trip. It is too much. The eye loses power of discrimination — the mind is stunned — the soul surfeited — so fast do grandeur of form, and beauty in details, crowd upon your view and demand your atten- tion as the train speeds through gorge and over mountain, giving here a vast outlook and there an interior glimpse, then exchang- ing it for a new one too rapidly for profit. Here gush the head- waters of rivers that run for a thousand miles east and west. You enter and escape l)y the gigantic gate-ways they have cut, your track is laid along the ravine-pathways they have hewn, and you ))ehold the very source of their currents in some crystal lake or in some vast body of ice borne upon the shoulders of I \m A LAKE -iTEAMSHir OK THE fANADIAN I'ACIFIC LINE. n Ay Excunsioy ro a l ask a. I mountains mantled with eternal frost. Sometimes you arc in the bottom of these ravines beside the bounding stream, and strain your eyes to toppling crags that swim among the fleeciest of summer clouds, a mile and a (juarter higher than your place. Again, with audacity of engineering, the railway surmounts a portion of this distance and lets you look down to where tall forest trees are small as match-sticks. Upward, apparently close at hand, are the naked ledges lifted above the last fringe of vegetation, wide spaces of never-wasting snow, and the wrinkled backs of glaciers where cataracts come leaping into the con- cealment of the forest. Here you may look out upon a wilder- ness of icy peaks, glaciers and aiguilles of black rock; there you cautiously descend into the depths of profound gorges, to tind yourself enshrouded in the shadow of a forest beside which the eastern woods are as iniderl)rush. The massiveness and breadth of the mountains in one part will astonish you ; their splintered and fantastic forms in another excite your curiosity ; while now and llien a single stately peak, like Castle mountain, or Stephen, or Sir Donald, will print itself upon your memory. When tinally the three ranges are erossed, and the pretty lakes of British Columbia have been left behind, then cornea the amazing scenery of the Fraser, where a river as large as the Oliio rushes in a miglity torrent between towering cUflfe, and the railway follows all its windings. ' The Rockies, the Selkirks and the Gold range have all been left behind, but new mountains surround you, and above the river crags tlie eye catches glimpses of crowding peaks and the snow-mass of the great Okinagan and Cascade ranges. Only wlien these westernmost and coast-guarding heights have been traversed, — many travellers assert that this passage is the best of all, — has the Pacitic shore been attained. To attempt to see all this at the high speed of a transcon- tinental express train, is a mistake. Stop ofl", therefore, at two or three points at least, and take time to understand the moun- tains. Pleasant liotels have been built by the railway company at suitable points, where one may dwell in perfect comfort wil del \A iiii THE GLORY OF THE UOCKIES. 17 within the very heart of the alps, ami whence the glaciers may l)j explored, or sport with ritle and roil enjoyed. The Banff' Hot Springs and Field, in the Rockies; the Glacier Hotel, at the summit of the Selkirks ; and North Bend, m the depths of the Frascr canon, are at present the best stopping places, but otners are preparing. At Banft*, the Canadian government has set apart a large area at the eastern base of the Rockies, to be a national park; drives have been laid out reaching the best points of view, the hot mineral springs. Devil's lake and various tishing streams. It would be hard to tlnd anywhere in America a region combining a foreground so lovely, with mountains in the background so majestic, and an outlook to landscapes as wide, varied, and rich in color as these. Sport for rifle and shot-gun is abundant in every direction ; the streams are alive with trout, and in the deep snow-fed lakes this prince of fishes reaches a size and strength unheard of elsewhere. A large and elegant hutel is in course of erection there by the railway company. Upon the arrival of each train at Vancouver a steamer departs for Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, where steamers leave daily, or at frecjuent intervals, for ports up and down the neighboring coasts, for San Francisco, and for Japan and China, — the last-named by the new^ Canadian Pacific line of fast steam- ships, which make the trip to Yokohama in seventeen days, and to Hongkong in twenty-one days. V. ,.^. GLANCE at his map will show the reader that the coast of liritisli Columbia is indented by hnvj; inlets and ' guarded by hundreds of little islands, besides that great brealvwater which Vancouver island affords. A century ago these intricate waterways were scrutinized by Vancouver and other navigators in the hope of finding that long-looked-for "northwest passage." About 18(52 they were re-explored in search of a short and easy route to the gold mines of the in- terior; and later the railway surveys added still more accurate knowledge in regard to them. "All these inlets," remarks Capt. R. C. Mayne, " possess cer- tain general characteristics. They run up between steep moun- tains tliree or four thousand feet in height; the water is deep and anchorages far from plentiful; while they terminate, almost without exception, in valleys, — occasionally large ami wide, at other times mere gorges, — through which one or more rivers struggle into the sea. They may be said to resemble large fis- sures in the coast more than anything else." It is near the entrance of the most important of these inlets that the traveller finds himself at the end of his railway jour- ney — the southermost one on the coast, named "Burrard" by Vancouver. This inlet is divided into three distinct harbors, separated from each other by narrows, through which the tide rushes with great velocity. The entrance of Burrard inlet lies fourteen miles from the sandheads of the Fraser river, and T^g- lish l)ay is the anchorage just within it. Immediately north of Burrard inlet is Howe sdund, which leads inland for about twenty miles, and has at the head an extensive valley, through which the Squawmisht and several lesser rivers come down. The soil at the mouth of these rivers is very fertile and their lower banks have always been tenanted by Indians, none of whom, however, cultivated the ground. Kext to llowc sound is Jervis inlet, another narrow arm run- t bhe coast ilets and liat ji^reat iury ago liver and oked-for )lored in f the in- accurate sess cer- 'P moun- V is deep !, almost wide, at e rivers arge fls- se inlets ay jour- ard " by larbors, tlie tide nlet lies nd ^g- , which lead an several e rivers enanted nd. rm run- * • r^- vc:^ ■■■■■■ -^>\'^ Till-: (Jt)l{(;F, OK TIIK IIOMATHCO. w^ i 20 AJV EXi'URSloy TO ALASKA. ninjjf inltuul soino forly-tive miles, at the head of whleli stands a remarkably steep and isolated peak, about the shape of a letter A, its apex brilliant with snow like the pinnaelesof the Cascades behind it, whose forests and erags barricade the interior against the most ardent roadmakers. Texada, an iron-pnxlncing island, stands at the mouth of Jcrvis inlet, and beyond lies Desolation sound, whence two iidets, Toba and Bute, trend inland. These are favorite fishing places with the Indians. From the head of Bute inlet, where much gold has l)een found, a trail leads along the great gorge of the Ilomathco river over to the Eraser; and there were earnest advocates for making this point the terminus of the Canadian Pacific. The next inlet north of Bute is Loughborough, then follow Knight inlet and Fife sound, the entrance to which is marked by a magniflcent mountain, on its northern side; and after that the whole coast to the boundary of Alaska is indented with arms of the sea, little known, one of which. Deans' canal, pene- trates some seventy-five miles and was used by the Hudson's Bay Company, in old times, as a route to the interior. This mainland coast is fringed with dense forests, sometimes growing on low ground, but generally covering mountain- ridges of all shapes, that rise in terraces, spurs and foothills toward the Cascade range, — a line of irregular volcanic peaks extending from Oregon to Alaska, and shooting far above the limit of plant growth into a zone of perpetual cold. Vancouver, the terminus of the Canadian Pacific, stands upon the beautiful slope bordering English harbor, near the entrance of Burrard inlet. The town has been built with great rapidity, but the wooden h.ouses first thrown up to aftbrd shelter are fast giving place to substantial buildings of stone and brick; exten- sive wharves line the shores, where only tvvo or three years ago the primitive forest swept to the water's edge; while a crowd of sliippiug and boats, moved by steam and sails, by the sturdy arms of fishermen, lumbermen and settlers, or under disciplined strokes of a man-o'-war's crews together with dozens of Indian canoes of all shapes and sizes, some paddled by men and others 5 stands a 51 letter Cascades against •f Jcrvis ts, Toba :es with ?old lias )inatlico ates for I follow marked ter that b'd with 1, pene- n's Bay (letimes >untain- oothills c peaks >ve the Is upon itrance ipidity, ire fast exten- irs ago crowd sturdy iplined Indian others THE CITIES OF VA^SCOlVKll AXD VICTOllIA 21 by squaws, with a cargo of furs, fish, vegetables and children, or simply steered with a carved puddle wliile the breeze fills their sails of bark-matting, combine to make a scene of lively animation oft' shore. The ferriage by the daily steamer to Victoria is a deligldfnl trip of seven hours, and a pleasant foretaste of the longer voyage; and yon may deem yourself fortunate if you have one or two days before the departure of the Alaskan steamer to be devoted to sight-seeing in the neighborhood of the island- capital. Victoria is one of the prettiest and most engaging colonial towns in all the wide circle of Her Majesty's dominion. Founded long, long ago as a trading-post .and seaport; tlepending upon agriculture, mer- cantile and seafaring pursuits for its growth ; settled by men of edu- cation and wealth, who were glad to call it liome and to surround them- selves with the com- forts and undertake the far-seeing plans belonging to a permanent station; and un- stimulated by the feverish mining "booms" which forced forward, amid noisy excitement, the swift advance of such places as San Francisco, Pauama, or the Australian ports; Victoria has grown in a substantial, deliberate w^ay into a most charming and quiet, though by no means sleepy, city, now numbering some 12,000 people. "It has as solid mansions, as well built roads, and as many country houses around it, as any little town on the home island , Victoria has the perfect climate, according to the Princess Louise and other sojourners, and there is a peace and rest in the atmosphere that charms the briefest visitor. Everyone takes life easily, and things move in MEDICINE RATTLES OF BRIT. COL. INDIANS. Ay Exvriisioy TO mask a. I a slow 1111(1 accustoiiK^d ;»r<)()vi', as if sjinctioiKMl by tlie custom of ceiituru's on the sjiiiic spot, niisincss iiit'ii Iwinlly ^ct down town before ton o'clock in the nioniiiiii", and by four in the afternoon they are stridinif and ridini»' oil' to tlieir lioines as if the fever and activity of American trade and competition were far away and unheard of The drives about the town, along the island shores and throu,i;h the woods, are beautiful, and the heavy London-built carriages roll over hard and perfect English highways. Ferns growing ten and twelve feet high by the roadside amazed us l)eyon(l expression, until a loyal and vera- cious citizen of Oregon assured us that ferns eighteen feet high could be found anywhere in the woods back of Astoria; and that he had often l)een lost in fern prairies among the Cascade mountains, where the fronds arched far above his head when he was mounted on a horse. Wild rose-bushes are malted together by the acre in the clearings about the town, and in June they weight the air with their perfume as they did a cen- tury ago when Marchand, the old French voyager, compared the region to the rose-colored slopes of Bulgaria. The honeysuckle attains the greatest perfection in this climate, and covers and smothers the cottages and trellises with thickly-set blossoms. Even the currant-bushes grow to unusual height, and in many gardens they are trained on ar])ors and hang their red, ripe clusters high overhead." ' - The loveliest place in the whole neigliborhood is Beacon Ilill park, a half-natural, half-cultivated area on the shore of the straits of Fuca, where coppices of the beautiful live oak, and many a strange tree and shrub, are mingled with shapely ever- greens, diversifying the flower-strewn and rolling lawns that look out upon the sparkling sea and across to the snowy moun- tains of the American mainland. "If Claude Melnotte," exclaims Lillian Scidmore, whose pleasant book. The Sitkan Archipelago^ I have already quoted, and shall again resort to, — " If Claude Melnotte had wanted to paint a fairer picture to his lady, he should have told Pauline of this glorious northwest coast, fringed with islands, seamed with fathomless channels of BEAUTY OF VICTOlilA. cK'iir, jixi'i'^'" i^t-Ji wJitiT, and bask'mi!: in the soft nu'llow radiance of this sunnncr snnshino. Tlio scenery jj^alns cvcrytliin.y: from beinif translated tlironifh the niediuni of a soft, pearly atmo- sphere, where the lijj:ht Is as .srrey and evenly dilt'used as in Old En^jland itself. The distant monntain ranujes are lost in the blue vaporous sluulows, and nearer at hand the masses and out- lines show in their pure contour vvilhout tin; obtrusion of all tlie ixarish details that rob so many western mountain scenes of their .u;rander ett'ects. The calm of the brooding- air, the shinnner of the oi)aline sea around one, and the ran.ufes of green and rus- set hills, misty purple mountains, and snowy summits on the faint horizon, give a dream-like coloring to all one's thoughts." Goo by to Victoria is said at noon, when the bustle of depart- ure makes a lively picture on the wharf, where people of a dozen nationalities mingle in an eager crowd — natty naval olflcers and government ollicials; snug looking citizens with their wives and tlaughters; tourists from the Atlantic states and Kun>pe; perhaps a swarthy Mexican or Chilian and his wife, rich and polite, /<^jmv aT««k fraternizing with a Parisian literary wanderer, \ v^* * l^^t casting puzzled glances at the German nat- uralist, who is so yolicitous about his instrument- boxes and photographic apparatus; a mercantile traveller or two, having an eye upon speculations in Nanaimo or Sitka, some inland gold mine or ofl'-shore tishery. Plenty of women-folk, too, dressed all the way from the height of fashion to the depth of no-fashion, and, as a picturesque background, a democratic commingling of laborers, lumbermen, gold miners, sailors, loungers, Chinese and Indians. Promptly at the hour, the cai)tain calls out from the bridge his orders for the withdrawal of the gang-plank, and the hand- some steamer cautiously makes its way through the sinuous chaimels of the harbor and out into the waters of Fuca strait. lu is not long before the breadth of the strait is left behind and the steamer turns this way and that at the entrance to the gulf of Georgia, among those islands through which runs the VICTORIA INDIAN. & 24 jy EXCUIiSION' TO ALASKA. international boundary ]inc, and for tlie possession of which Eni^land and the United States nearly went to war in 1862. Tliese passed, tlie steamer emeri^es into the lal\e-lilie gulf. The water at first is pale and somewliat opaque, for it is the current of the great Fraser gliding far out upon the surface, but the steamer soon passes out of it into the darker, clearer, and Salter waters of the gulf itself. Then the prow is headed toward Vancouver, where the mails, freight and new railway passengers are received. m ifl^^sS"? THR TRACK OF A roHKST FIRE. CFt'om Elliott's " Our Arctic Province,'' Scribner's Sovs.J M of which in 1862. ilf. V it is the ! surface, , clearer, is headed ' railway • h2^1 VI. ^^OW only may the voyage be said to have beg:nn. Nearly two thousand miles of saiHuij: lies ahead, throuuhout which, if you have ordinary luck, your vessel will not tremble or roll enough to spill a brimming glass of water upon the cabin table. " The tourist will record a vision of earthly scenery grander than the most vivid imagination can devise, and the recollection of its glories will never fade from his delighted mind." From Vancouver the steamer crosses to Nanaimo, a large settlement on Vancouver island, where coal mines of great importance exist. A railway now connects this point with Vic- toria, and a wagon-road crosses the interior of the island to Alberni canal and the seaport at its entrance on Barclay sound. The mines on the mainland at Nanaimo were exhausted some time ago, after which deep excavations were made on Newcastle island, just opposite the town. But after a tremendous tire these also were abandoned, and all tlie workings are now on the shores of Departure bay, where a colliery village named Wel- lint'-ton has been built up. A steam ferry connects Nanaimo with Welliiigton; and while the steamer takes in its coal the passengers disperse in one or the other village, go trout-tishing, shooting or botanizing in the neighboring w^oods, or trade and charter witli the Indians, who are ubiquitous throughout the whole coast region. "Nanaimo does not look like a coal-mining place. The houses are much above the average of miners' residences in Britain or in Nova Scotia, scattered about, often in picturesque situa- tions, with gardens, and not in long, mean, soot-covered rows, as if laid with the idea that men who see nothing of beauty underground cannot be expected to appreciate it above. The view from the town of the Cascade range on the other side of the straits, is almost eoaf^ to the view of the long semi- circulak line of the Alps frrt.i Milan. At sunset, when warmed jr 26 v4iV EXCURSION TO ALASKA. with tlic roseate light, or, a littUi Later, when a deep soft bhie lias displaced the cjnih'ur de rose, the beauty is almost incon- sistent with the asli heaps and tenements of a mining village." So says Princii)al Grant, the author of Ocean to Ocean. Her l)unkers full of coal and her decks swept clean, the good ship collects her passengers and steers northward. Just ahead lie the big hills of Texada island, whose iron mines yield ore of extraordinary purity, which is largely shipped to the United States to be made into steel. The steamer keeps to the left, and makes its way through Jiayne's sound, the shores of which are low and forested, although inland can be seen some of the tall- est peaks in Vancouver. Wlien Cape Lazro has been passed on tile left, and the upper end of Texada on the right, a fine view, across the l)roadening water eastward, is given of the lofty mountains sent down from the Cascades as a spur dividing Jervis inlet from Toba. Some of tliese mountains ris^i as high as 6,000 feet, yet far over tlieir heads tower the remote snow-caps of the true Cascades. Here it was that Lillian Scidmore, and the ship's company of which she w^as one, were aroused one night by an obliging captain with the command, "Wake up! the whole sea is on tire I " "The water around us," she says, "was thickly starred with phosphores<:ence, and at a sliort distance the million points mingled in a solid stretch of pale unearthly flame. It lighted the sky with a strange reflection, and the shores which there, otr Cape Lazro, are twenty miles away, seemed near at hand in the clear, gliostly liglit. A ))road pathway of pale green lumi- nous water trailed after us, and the paddle-wheels threw off dazzling cascades. Under the boxes the foaming spray washed high on the black hull, and cast long lines of unearthly, green- ish white flame, that illuminated tlie row of faces hanging over the guards as sharply as calcium rays. ... It was a most wonderful display, and many vviio had seen this glory of the seas in the tropics, declared tiiat tliey had never seen phospho- rescent waters more brillianl Ihnn tliose of the gulf of Georgia." Out of tliis expansion the steamer points its prow along the _JLL oft blue t iiicoii- rillage." he good St ahead [I ore of United eft, and liich are the tall- issed on le view, le lofty lividing high as -caps of and the »e night ip ! the L^d with points lighted I there, liand in n lumi- 'ew off ^vaslied green- g over a most of the ospho- )rgia." ng tlie * I ii 28 AN EXCLUSION TO ALASKA. i Vancouver shore into Seymour narrows, leading to Discovery pass, Avliich separates Valdes and Vancouver islands. Valdes island is so large that it nearly blocks up the gulf at this point ; and it was proposed by some engineers to make a series of bridges and so l}ring the Canadian Pacific Railway across to Vancouver. Tiie Seynuur narrows are only about 900 yards wide, and in them there is an incessant turmoil and bubbling of currents. " This part of the gulf of Georgia," as Capt. Mayne remarks, " forms a sort of play -ground for the waters, in which they frolic, utterly regardless of all tidal rules. This is caused by the collision of the streams which takes place here; the flood-stream from the south, through the strait of Fuca and up the Haro archipelago, being met by that from Queen Char- lotte sound and Johnstone straits. The mountains rise very high and close on each side, and when the northwest gales bring great volumes of fog to swirl over contending currents 'J? t?' '>r, funneling through this great ravine with terrific force, the pas- sage may well be dreaded." That is a winter scene, however. These straits are about UO miles long, and by the time their full length is passed the traveller has been captured by the enchantment of his surroundings. A thousand novel " effects " of water, dancing in emerald currents, or spread in glassy sheets of black and gray; of rockwork, piled in lofty clifts, or rounded mto kelp-grown boulders; of woodland, from the unbroken forests of the mainland to tiny tufts of bushes adorning some rough rock ; and of mountains bristling against the sky in every imaginal)le variety of form, distance, color, and arrangement of foreground, — all these have delighted his eyes and awakened his mind. Solitude and stillness reign, save when broken by the darting of a canoe from some concealed nook, manned by Indians, or save when the sportsman's rifle arouses the echoes. The maze of small islands on the right and Vancouver's bulwark on the left are escaped together, after which the open Pacific shows itself for an hour or two in the offing of Queen Charlotte's sound, and the steamer rises and falls gently upon the long lazy rollers that have swept all the way from China and ^fUi iscovery Valdes is point ; series of cross to 10 yards )bling of t. Mayne n which s caused ere; the aca and nn Char- ise very st gales [currents the pas- ^ever. ne their by the effects " y sheets oiinded ibroken ig some n every iient of ^akened ken by ined by hoes, ouver's le open Queen y upon na and a- WW ^ I! I S5 30 Ay EXCUItSlON^ TO ALASKA. 4 I!!! Polynesia. In the far northwest, the horizon is broken by the dark mass of the Queen Charlotte islands; but the steamer's course hugs the shore, and turning into Fitz Hugh sound the ocean and its rollers are soon lost behind Calvert, Hunter's and Bards well islands, where the ship's spars sometimes brush the overhanging trees. Here are the entrances to Burke channel and to Dean's canal, penetrating like an arm and hand with dis- tended fingers far amid the tremendous clifls of the mainland mountains. Then comes a twenty-minutt dash across the open bight of Millbank sound, beyond which stretch long inside passages behind Princess Koyal, Pitt and Packer islands, de- bouching at last into Dixon sound at the extremity of British Columbia's ragged coast line. " ^ " The sun rose at three o'clock on that rare summer morning," says the author of The Sitkan Archipelago^ " when the ship thrust her bow into tlie clear, mirror-like waters of the Finlay- son channel, and at four o'clock a dozen passengers were up in front watching the matchless panorama of mountain walls that slipped silently past us. The clear, soft light, the pure air, and the stillness of the sky, and shore, and water, in the early morn- ing, made it seem like the dawn of creation in some new paradise. The breath of the sea and the breath of the pine forest were blended in the air, and the silence and calm added to the inspiration of the surroundings. The eastern wall of the channel lay in pure shadow, tlie forest slopes were deep, un- broken waves of green, with a narrow base-line of sandstone washed snowy white, and beneath that, every twig and tree lay reflected in the still mirror of waters of a deeper, purer and softer green than tlie emerald Cliffs of the color and boldness of the Yosemite walls shone in the sunlight on the opposite side, and wherever there were snow-banks on the summits, or lakes in tlie hollows and amphitheatres back of the mountain-ridge, foaming white cataracts tumbled down the •heer walls into the green sea- water. Eagles soared overhead in long, lazy sweeps, and hundreds of young ducks fluttered away from the ship's bow, and dived at the sharp echoes of a I WAIiMTir OF THE CLIMATE. 31 11 by the steamer's ound the ter's and )rush the channel with dis- inainland the open ^ inside inds, de- f British orninj?," the ship } Finlay- 3re up in 'alls that air, and ly morn- me new the pine idded to of the eep, un- ndstone tree lay rer and ►lor and on the on the i of the wn the verhead uttered )es of a rifle-shot Finer even tlian the three preceding fiords is tlie arrowy reach of Grenville channel, which is a narrow cleft in the mountain range, forty-five miles long, and witli scarcely a curve to break the bold palisade of its walls. In tlie narrowest part it is not a quarter of a mile in widtli." The northern end of Grenville channel suddenly expands into Dixon sound, or "entrance," which is open to the ocean and likely to be foggy; but it is only forty miles wide, and during the summer months is almost invariably as still and smooth as an inland lake. The fogs which prevail here are due to the fact that this bight is filled with the waters of the warm Japanese current, the Gulf Stream of the Pacific, which flows out of the hot precincts of the East Indian seas northward past the Kurile islands, then easterly along the Aleutians, making those lonely rocks green and ha))itable, when otherwise they would be hidden under one universal blanket of ice ; and then is deflected down the Alaskan coast, dispensing that warmth which gives to these northerly shores the climate of southern England. Chilled l)y the cool air descending from the neighboring coast-mountains, the moisture evaporating from this warm Pacific current con- denses into fogs at sea and produces that heavy rainfall towdiich the littoral forest owes its extraordinary luxuriance. During midsummer and early autumn, however, the temperature of water and air become so nearly equable that fog and rain are the exception rather than the rule, especially inside of the outer barrier of islands, over which sun-reflecting banks of mist may often be seen to hover, like huge brooding birds, while a sunny sky canopies the inner straits and the mainland shore. Never- theless, all travellers should be well provided with umbrellas, waterproofs, and footgear suitable to wet walking ashore. Through Dixon sound passes the boundary-line between British Columbia and Alaska, — that same 54 (Xq*^. 40 min., north latitude, which, in 1862, furnished the alliterative war-cry " Eifty-four- forty or fight!" and here is the estuary of the Skeeiia river, ah)iig which the clever Chimsian Indians have their villages, and g')ld-washers their cabins. Farther north, behind Chimsian ft -I 32 AN EXCURSION TO ALASKA. '1. I island, where the well-eivilizeu mission villaj^e and church of Metakatla will attract attention, stands Fort Simpson, an an- cient Hudson's J5ay post at the entrance to the Portland canal. This inlet and its various arms are simply stupendous canons, lialf-tilled by the tides, whence mountain-precipices rise thou- santls of feet on each side, almost vertically from the dark still water that barely separates their bases, to crowns of perpetual ice and snow. No word is more expressive than canal, in reality the Sjianish for " channel," given by the earliest navigators to designate the placidity, narrowness and profundity of these prodigious gashes in the continental margin. hurch of II, an an- 11(1 canal. s canons, ise thou- lark still perpetual in reality ivigators of these VTT. HE steamer docs not penetrate the Portland canal, but, \ 'U crossini>: tlie invisible boundary into Alaska, heads straight ^ toward Fort Tongass, on Wales island, once a military sta- tion of tlie United States. Now it is only a tishing-place. One old wharf and the buildings belonging to the salmon cannery suffice for the needs of its few white and Chinese inhabitants. The village of the red fishermen who catch the salmon and do much of the packing is a mile or more distant, but tiiey are sure to be on hand when the steamer makes her appearance. And now let me {}uote that experienced voyager and pleasant writer, Henry W. Elliott, whose book, Our Arctic Province, is the latest con- tribution to the literature of this region. "If you are alert," Elliott advises, " you will be on deck S? ^^^ and on good terms with the 4 ^» officer in charge, when the line («a!^ is crossed on Dixon sound, ^ and the low wooded crowns of Zayos and Dundas islands, now close at hand, are speedi- ly left in the wake, as the last land-marks of foreign soil. To the left, as the steamer enters the beautiful water of Clarence straits, the abrupt, irregular, densely wooded shores of Prince of Wales island rise as lofty walls of timbi • and of rock, mossy and sphagnous, shutting out completely a hasty glimpse of the great Pacific rollers afforded in the sound, while on the right hand you turn to a delighted contemplation of those snowy crests of the towering coast-range whicli, though thirty and fifty miles distant, seem to fairly be in reach, just over and back of the rug- ged tree-clad elevations of mountainous islands that rise abruptly from the sea-canal in every direction. Not a gentle slope to the NATIVE nOOKS FOR DEEP-SEA FISHING. 34 AN KXCUIiSIoy TO ALASKA. \m m i i water can be seen on eitlicr side of the vessel as you glide rapidly ahead; the passaiije is often so narrow that the wavelets from the steamer's wheel break and echo back loudly on your ear from the various strips of ringing, rocky sinngle at the base of blufly intersections. ^' U by happy decree of fate fog-banks do not shut suddenly down upon your pleased vision, a rapid succession of islands ;iiul myriads of islets, all si)ringiiig out boldly from the cold l)Iue-green and whitisli-gray waters which encircle their bases, will soon tend to confuse and utterly destroy all sense of locality; the steamer's path seems to be in a circle, to lead right back to where she started from into another equally mysterious laby- rinthine opening; tlitni the curious idiosyncrasy possesses you by whicli you seem to see in the scenery just ahead an exact re- semblance to the bluffs, the summits and the cascades which you have just left behind. Your emphatic ex])ression of this belief, will most likely arouse some fellow-passenger who is an old voyagey, and he will take a guiding oar; he will tell you that the numerous broad, smooth tracks, cut through the densely wooded mountain slopes from the snow lines above abruptly down to the very sea bcdow, are the paths of avalanches ; that if you will only crane your neck enough so as to look right aloft to a certain precipice now almost hanging 3,000 feet high and over the deck of the steamer, there you will see a few small white specks feebly outlined against the grayish-red back-ground of the rocks, — these are mountain goats; he tells you that those stolid human beings who are squatting in a large dug-out canoe are * Si washes ' halibut- fishing, — and as these savages stupidly stare at the big 'Boston' vessel swiftly passing, with uplifted paddles or keeping sliglit headway, you return their gaze with interest, and the next turn of the ship's rudder most likely throws into full view a ' rancherie,' in which these Indians permanently reside ; your kindly guide then eloquently describes the village and descants with much vehemence upon the frailties and short- comings of * Si washes' in general, — at least old stagers in this country agree in despising the aboriginal man. On the steamer Ic rapidly c'ts from ear from of blufly suddenly f islands the cold ir bases, locality ; t back to ous Ia])y- »sses you exact re- •hich you lis belief, is an old 1 tliat tlie y vvf)oded vn to the will only a certain the deck e specks of the )se stolid anoe are dly stare paddles interest, ows into lanently e village d short- s in this steamer 30 AN Excr/i'sroy to alasa'a. Ill .fe for^^es tliiounii the still, uiiriillUul waters of intricate passanfcs, MOW Jilniost serapinu: her yard-arms on the face of a precipitous heaillanil, tlien rapidly shootin^^ out into the heart of a lovely bay, broad and deep enough to lloat in room and safety a naval llotilla of the lirst class, until a lonjj:, unusually low, timl)ered p')int seems to run out aliead directly in tlie track, when your liuide, jijiviui^ a cpiic k look of reco,t(nition, declares that Wrangel town lies just around it, and you speedily make your inspection of an Alaskan hamlet." ' Two or three flsli-canneries and trading stations are visited before Wrangel is reached, where there is time to go ashore, see the villages of the aborigines, buy specimens of their handi- work, flsli, or stroll about. " Of all the lovely spots in Alaska," exckhns Miss Scidmore, of one of these stations in the Revilla- gigedo channel, " connnend mc to this little land-locked bay, where the clear green waters are stirred witli the leaping of thousands of salmon, and the siiores arc clothed with an enchantiul forest of giant pines, and tlie undergrowth is a tangle of ferns and salmon-berry bushes; and the ground and every log are covered witli wonderful mosses, into which the foot sinks at everv step." Fort Wrangel was originally a station of the TJussian fur- traders. The United States built an expensive military post there in 18()7, innnediately after the accession of Alaska, but abandoned it in 1870. In 1874 the discovery of the Cassiar gold mines up tlie Stickeen river, of which Wrangel is the natural seaport, repopnlatcd it with riotous men, and soldiers were sent to overawe the tur))ulent ; Ijut t!te mines proved less satisfactory tlian had been anticipated, tluf Miarvelously grand canons of the Stickeen no longer echoed from walls of ice the steamer's whistle, and miners and soldiers withdrew, leaving Wrangel a mere head-quarters for fishing and desultory gold washing, and the seat of a mission school, the pupils of which are supplied by the aboriginal population living at the base of the great circle of snow-peaks encompassing the pretty harbor with an Alpine back-ground. m FiVK T//(>rsAxn ijviya (;/..i('//':/!s. 37 )a,ssa^es, ocipitous a lovely y a naval timbered leii your W ran gel ispection e visited liore, see ir handi- Alaska," Ilevilla- :ed bay, iping of with an ^'tli is a and and liich the ian fur- iry post j^ka, but ;iar gold natural ere sent sfactory s of the :eamer's •angel a ing, and plied by circle of Alpine Si f "Those who l)elieve that all Alaska is a place of perpetual rain, fog, snow and iee would be (piickiy (lisal)used could they spend some of the itieal sununcr days in tliat most lovely iiarbor of Fort Wrangel. Each time the sky was clearer and tlie air milder than before, and on the day of my tliird visit the frcsli beams of the mo.Miing sun gave an infinite cluirm to tlie laud- scape, as we turned from the ClarcMice straits into t\w, narrower pass between the islands, and sailed across waters that reflected in shimmering, pale blue, and pearly liglits tlie wonderful pano- rama of mountains. Though perfectly clear, the light was softened and subdued, and even on such a glorious sunny morn- ing there was no glare nor harshness in the atmosphere. This pale, soft light gave a dreamy, poetic (piality to the scenery, and the flrst ranges of mountains above the water shaded from the deep green and russet of the nearer pine forests to azure and purple, where their farther summits were outlined against the sky or the snow-covered peaks that were mirrored so faithfully in the long stretches of the channel." Northward from Fort Wrangel the shii) enters a narrow canal, which seems grander and more beautiful than anything seen yet, where pieces of ice in the water soon indicate an approach to the first glacier, — a noble specimen, four miles across its front, and stretching back for forty miles into the main range. The entire front of this lofty coast- range chain, that forms the eastern Alaskan margin from the sunnuit of Mount St. Ellas to the mouth of Portland canal, has been gouged out by glaciers. All along the shore, the planing and scratching of rocks by glacial ice, and morainal heaps of boulders, or the tracks of rivers now shrunken, show how recent (geologicaii} (peaking), has been the decay of that vast congelation which once mantled every mountain-side and filled each river-gorge to its mouth. Even now, as Elliott points out, you can scarcely push your way to the head of any canon, great or small, without finding an eternal ice-sheet anchored there; and careful estimation places the astonishing aggregate of over 5,000 living glaciers, of greater or less degree, in this region, that are silently but for- ever travelling down to the sea. 88 AN EXCURSION TO ALASKA. [ill 'M^ m As the forefoot of the glacier glides into the water, "the pressure caused by the buoyancy of the partially submerged mass causv s it to crack oft' in the wildest lines of cleavage, and rise to the surface in hundreds and thousands of glittering frag- ments ; or, again, it may slide out over the water on a rocky bed, and, as it advances, break off* and fall down in thundering salvos that ring and eclio in the gloomy caiions with awe-inspiring repetition. " On goes the ship, through winding channels, past innumerable islands, here crossing a wide sound, there rushing through a tide-rip, next stealing along some slender, unruffled canal, "whose lofty walls of syenite, slate, and granite shut out the light of day, and against which her rigging scrapes, and the pas- senger's hand may almost touch ; a hundred thousand spark- ling streams fall in feathery cascades adown their mural heights, and impetuous streams beat themselves into white foam as they leap either into the eternal depths of the Pacific or its deep arms." At Taku inlet, opposite Admiralty island, whose whole centre is billowy with snowy uplands fringed at the surf-line with dense woods, the ship halts and gives her passengers half a day or more to climb over the moraines and explore the three huge glaciers that creep down to the sea at its head. " That day on the Taku glacier," Miss Scidmore records, "will live as one of the rarest and most perfect enjoyment. The grandest objects in nature were before us, the primeval forces that mould the face of the earth were at work, and it was all so far away and out of the everyday world that we might have been walking a new planet, fresh fallen from the Creator's hand. The lights and shadows on the hills, and the range of colors, were superb — every tiny ice-cake in the water sliowing colors as rare and fleeting as the shades of an opal, while the gleaming ice-cliff' from wliich these jewels dropped was aglow with all the prismatic lights, and tinted in lines of deepest indigo in the great caverns and rifts of its front. The sunny, sparkling air was most exliilarating, and we sat on the GOLD MINERS AND INDIANS. 39 er, "the Emerged age, and ng frag- cky bed, g salvos nspiring d imerable irough a canal, out the the pas- d spark- heights, 1 as they ics deep le centre ith dense a day or :ee huge records, ioyment. primeval :, and it that we ^rom the and the le water an opal, dropped lines of It. The t on the after-deck basking in the golden rays of the afternoon sun, and looked back regretfully as the glaciers receded and were lost to sight by a turn in the flord." A few hours later, Juneau City is reached, — a lively town supported by the gold mines up the Taku river, where diggings were begun in 1880, that now yield something like half a million aollars a year. The traders' stores in Juneau are perfect museums of Indian curiosities, furs, and oddities of Alaskan production. The steamer stops here long enough to permit some examination of the flourishing mines in the Silver Bow basin ; or the tourist may find it to advantage to stop over until the ensuing steamer. The next stage of the journey traverses the whole length of Lynn canal, stretching northward as a great inlet, at tlie head of which the valleys of the Chilkatand Chilkoot rivers aflbrd pas- sageways to the interior plains along the upper Yukon. Pyramid harbor, at the head of this canal, is the most north- erly point of the pilgrimage (N. lat. 59 deg. 11 min.) where the sun does not set till nearly twenty-two o'clock in midsummer, and fine print can be read until sunrise, some four hours later. For variety of scenery, Indian life, and the study of natural history and of the practical resources by which the native population exists and civilization is supported, no locality in Alaska will be found more interesting to the traveller than this Chilknt coun- try, where, also, opportunities for sketching, lisliiog, and hunting game, big and little, . <: unlimited. SEA-cT'i -"j;. VIII. [HE red natives of this North-Pacific coast become familiar objects to tlie tourist, from the time lie reaches the valley of the Fraser mitil the steamer anchors in Glacier bay ; yet he sees them scarcely long enough at any one place, nor can he observe any one group with sufficient care, to distinguish those differences by which they are in fact divided into a jarge number of different families. The natives of the Fraser valley belong to the same Selish (pronounced Smj-Ush) group as do those living about Victoria and Puget sound; but from differences in halutat and manner of life they have gradually acquired b wide amount 'j^ u- .t- tion from their mainland congeners. Another group v^ Yv^- guistic family is found in the Cliimisian country, along the coast of the mainland, between Queen Charlotte sound and the Skeena river. The Chimisians are much superior to the coast Indians further south, in physical appearance and in mental ability; they are good hunters as well as good fishermen, and almost equal the Haidas in artistic ability. Tlie Haida family originally occupied the Queen Charlotte islands, but these people have lately spread widely, and are often seen in Victoria and the Puget Sound ports. They are stalwart, adventurous Indians, of fine figure and pleasant countenance, who are accustomed to perilous sea voyages, hunt- ing whales and fishing for halibut in deep water, and to mak- ing extensive tours through the archipelagoes. This Queen Charlotte group, northwest of Vancouver, consists of the second largest islands of British Columbia, and, altliough mountaino'is, possesses large areas of good soil, a climate nuich like that of Ireland, and a most a1)undant vegetation. It is upon these islands that the cedar rtniches its most magnificent propor- tions, so that out of a single trunk the clever Ilaidas are al)le, by a process of cluirring and scraping, to dig a canoe which sometimes exceeds sixty feet in length. Tiiese ca'.iojs are o i t JIM DA AND T LIN KIT INDIANS. 41 e familiar the valley icier bay; e, nor can istinguish to a 'arge me Selish Victoria d manner of "jv.l- ip V li'^- iloHg the 1 and the the coast n mental ishermen, Cliarlotte and are Tliey are pleasant :es, Innit- to mak- s Queen e second itainoMs, e that of on tliese propor- ar(^ able, e Avluch s are o finely modelled that they are l)otli swift and si^aworthy. Their prows are extended into a great beak like tliat wliicli decorated the galleys of ancient Greece, and tliese prows and the cutwater of the canoe are decorated in gaudy colors with symbols and conventional designs drawn from their totemic mythology. North of Discovery sound the tourist will meet with a diver- sity of Indian tribes belonging to the great shore family of T'linkits. These are not rol)ust and shapely people like the Haid'is >-i^iit' from their constant life ii canoes, where they sit A nATDA SINnLE-LOa CANOE, (From EllioWs " Our Arctic Province,'" C/ias. f^crUmcr^s Sonn.) doubled up, making no use of their legs, they have a spindle- shanked and dwarfed look far from elegant; the muscles of tiieir chests and arms, on the otiier hand, are developed in the highest degree, so that while you might tire out one of these red-skins in a walk, with little exertion uj)()n your part, he would Daddle a "canim" ten times as far as the best of you. These liidians also make dug-out canoes of great size and excellent outline. The T'linkits, like the Haidas, are clever dc^corators, it AN EXCURSION TO ALASKA. iM 1, m ii •Ut' if. 1 embellishing with carved desij^ns of mythological import their boats, their halibut clubs, fish-hooks, and almost every im- plement and utensil. Like the Haidas, too, they are skilful in weaving matting from barks, sea-weeds andrushcB; and in weaving cloth and matting out of grass, inner bark and various vegetable fibres; while the Chilkats, seen at the northern extremity of the voyage, produce from the fleece of the moun- tain goat blankets which surpass in texture and equal in the ALASKAN FISH-HOOKS. good taste of their colors and ornamental designs any barbarous fabric in the world. The Chilkat Indians have long been distinguished as workers in copper and silver, deriving the former from the mountains along their coast and hammering it into implements and orna- ments which are almost invariably chased. Coins are similarly treated, and the tourist will be able to buy or have made any quantity of silver or gold bracelets, rings and nicknacks, made and engraved in native designs by these Alaskan artists; but in this particular tliey no more than equal the Haida Indians, who often ])ring similar wares for sale to the towns along the southern coast. THE " SIWASIV AND HIS " CHINOOK:' ^ The universal name for the native rcduien of the northwestern coast is Siwash; " Indian " is rarely lieard. Tliey are peaceable and good-natured people, and the tourist need not feel in the least degree afraid, no matter how entirely alone with them he may be in one of their villages or \\\)0\\ a boating expedition. Their languages vary greatly, and few speak cither English or Russian; but the Chinook jargon, which prevails all the way from Portland to Ounalashka, serves as a lengua franca, or uni- versal means of communication for everybody. This brief, grammarless, and indescribable tongue, will be picked up In a few days by any tourist, and will not only be of use but afford him vast amusement. ESKIMOS SPKARINCJ TUK WAI.Utl.S, NOKTH5CUN ALASICA. EBSSa BB liif, : |T.;!'i *i I: H IX. I ETURNING, the ship retraces its course to the mouth of Lynn canal, rounds a roclvy point into Icy strait and crosses westward past the wooded shores dotted with Si wash camps, until it arrives at the entrance to Glacier bay. This bay was impenetrable to Vancouver, a century ago, because filled with ice, but now can be navigated for twelve miles. It is only within half a dozen years that this possibility has been known, and it is due to the retreat of the glaciers which are steadily melting. This is the culminating point of tlie Avhole voyage, and every traveller outdoes his predecessors in enthusiasm over wliat is to *be seen. 'x-^othing could be grander and more impressive than IN GLACIER BAT. the first view up the inlet, with the front of the great glacier, the slope of the glacial field, and the baclicr''i> S'nn«.j some responsive pleasure, for certainly the iiunian bcin.i^ who couhl remain insensible to their scenic glories nnist be one without a drop of warm blood in his veins." Sitka was founded in 17DD, but not until 1804 did Baranov (or BaranoflT), governor of the Russian fur-traders, wrest its pos- ession wholly out of native bands and set up the; fortifications which made it the head-quarters of Kussijui operations in Alaska. A town of no mean size and importance was (juickly built up. 52 AN EXCURSION TO ALASKA. M The trading and naval officers who came and went were men of education and accoinplisiiments, who l:)rouglit tlieir families, furniture and liabits from Russia, and lived not only in comfort but in real luxury, according to the dictates of European civiliza- tion. Sliipj'ards were built, foundries for iron and brass estab- lished, and a large manufacturing trade with California was added to the fisheries and fur-getting to which Russian America owed its settlement. Most of tiie bells still ringing in the old mission churches of California and northern Mexico were cast in Sitka. The American occupation of Sitka made a great change. The busy and picturesque life at tlie trading stores, the foundries, the shipyards and fisheries ceased, and the white population dwindled. The old Russian "castle" and the merchants' houses fell into decay, and the little Greek church lost much of its pomp and interest. The streets were cleaned, sidewalks laid down, new liouses for the Unitc^l States troops and officers were ])uilt and order was ensured, })ut the loose gayety and bright color which had made the place entertaining under the Russian regime vanished, Sitka, tlierefore, will prove less interesting to the tourist than many of the wilder halting-places, and when the steamer has. loaded for her return voyage he will be quite done with sight-seeing and ready to go or with her. ALASKAN DELICACIES. XI. [HE return voyage is made back through Peril strait and down the long reaches of Chatham strait, renowned for its fishing. This is a great place for cod and herring, where many curious implements and methods connected witli Ashing will be observed among the Indians, wliose villages and trading-posts form frequent landing-places, and where the ship's company themselves v/ill get steady sport witii rod and TOTEM-POSTS BEFORE AN ALASKAN U0U8E. reel. Some of the native villages, as the steamer gets down near Prince of Wales island, will show those cnrions carved totem-posts, and that picturesque disarray of large community houses, for which the Queen Cliarlotte islands are famed, while numberless objects of Siwash fabrication may be obtained to swell the collection of the curiosity seeker. Rounding into Dixon entrance Metal^atla is again seen, and the track of the northward route thence retraced isouthvvard toward 54 AN EXCURSION TO ALASKA. the gulf of Georgia. At every turn the beautiful views which an arcliipelago aflbrds meet the eye. Islands, of every possible variety of form, wOodsd from the lofty summits in their centre to t',(} brink of the deep channels separating them, keep the steersman continually twirling his wheel in order to follow the devious course. Here, there is an expansion where channels open like cross-roads ; next a narrow, winding strait ; then the ship goes shooting through tidal rapids, or rests in a broad, glassy })ay. "When we appeared on deck about seven o'ch " ," Principal Grant records in his interesting book entitled Owmu to Ocean, "the steamer was running down the straits of Georgia, over a rippling, sunlit sea. The lofty Beaufort range, on ou.' right, rose grandly in tlie clear air, every snowy peak distinct from its neighl)or, and the blue sky high al)ove the highest. Victoria and the twin peaks, Albert Edward and Alexandria, ranging from 6,000 to over 7,000 feet in height, were the most prominent; but it was the noble serrated range as a whole, more than separate peaks, that cauglit the eye. The smaller islands to the left were hidden by a fog-bank that gradually lifted. Then stood out, not only islet after islet in all their varied outline, but also the long line of the Cascade range behind. Yesterday had been charming from ten o'clock, when the sun pierced through the mists; but to-day was 'all white.' A soft, warm breeze fanned us, and every mile disclosed new features of scenery, to which snow-clad mountain-ranges, wooded plains, and a summer sea e'jfolding countless promontories and islands, contributed their different forms of l^eauty. The islands are composed of strata of sandstone and conglomerate ; the sandstone at the bottom worn at the water line into caves and hollows ; tiie conglomerate above forming lofty cliffs, wooded to the summits, and over- hanging winding inlets and straits most tempting to a yachts- man " By noon we had left tlie Beaufort range behind, and Mount Arrowsmitli came into view; while far ahead on the mainland, and soutii of the 4l)th parallel, wiiat looked like a dim white pyrai horiz Ar ful ■ adve THE END OF THE VOYAGE. 55 >le ire le he ils he pyramid rising to the skies, or a white cloud resting upon the horizon, was pointed out to us by the captain, as Mount Baker." And so, with no diminution of delight, this altogether delight- ful voyage comes to a graceful end. Every promise of its advertisers has been kept. % iTS ICO The annexed list shows a small portion of tlie tonrs the Canadian Pacific Railway is prepared to snpply, a fuller schedule of Avliich ^vill be forwarded to any address on appli- cation to the New York, Uoston or Chicago agencies, or to the Passenij^er Traflic Manairer at Montreal. Information as to rates, sleeping and dining-cars, etc., etc., will bo found at the end of the list. Bi ALASKA (Sitka. Glacier Bay, etc.) AND RETURN. ROUTE Jt 100 *Iiate $19S.0O Canadian Pacific Ry • to Port Arthur. Canadian Pacilio Ky '* Vancouver. Canadian I'acKic Nav. Co '♦ Victoria. Pacilic Coast B. S. Co , " Sitka, etc, llelurn Bamu route. £< ALASKA (Sitka, Glacier Bay, etc.) AND RETURN. liOUTE B 101 *Bate 195,00 Canadian Pucillc Ry to Port Arthtir. Canadian l'ai:ilic liy "Vancouver. Canadian I'aci lie Nav. Co ....,*• Victoria. " '■ ■ Pacilio Coa8t B.S. Co «« Sitl T= TOURS. 59 TAGOMA, WAGH. TERR. AND RETURN. JtOUTE Jt 141 *ltate $100. OO Canadian Pacific Ry to Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific B.S. Line '* Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry •• Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Nav. Co .• " Tacoma. Return aarae route " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ily *' Starting Point. (Similar Tours given to other Puget Sound ports at same rates.) VANCOUVER. B.C., AND RETURN. BOUTJE Jt 142 *Ratc $100.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Ry " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific S.S. Line " Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific Ry " Starting Point. VANCOUVER, B.C., AND RETURN. ItOTTTE Jt 143 *Rate $100.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry '* Vancouver. Return same route. VANCOUVER, B.C., AND RETURN. JIOUTE Jt 144 *Jiate $100.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific S.8. Line " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry ** Vancouver. Return same route. VANCOUVER, B.C., AND RETURN. ItOTTTE Jt 145 *Jtate $120.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to St. Thomas. Michigan Central R. R '* Chicago. Choice of five railway routes "St. Paul. St. Paul, Minneapolis & Manitoba Ry " Emerson. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Ry *' Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific S.S. Line " Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific Ry " Startiug Point. VANCOUVER, B.C., AND RETURN. JiOUTE Jt 146 *Rate $120.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to St. Thomas. Michigan Central R.R " Chicago. Choice of five railway routes '* St. Paul. 8t. Paul, Minneapolis & Manitoba K.R " Emerson. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Ry " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ky " Starting Point. VICTORIA, B.C., AND RETURN. JtOUTE It 147 *Itate $10O.OO Canadian* Pacific Ry to Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian I'acific Nav. Co " Victoria. Return same route. * Se« not« on page OL I 60 ylW EXCUnSION^ TO ALASKA. VICTORIA, B. C, AND RETURN. JtOUTE B 148 *Itate $100.00 Canadian Pacific Hy to Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Nav. ( o " Victoria. Canadian Pacific Nav. Co •• Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Ry " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific S.iS. Line " Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific " Starting Point. VICTORIA, B. C, AND RETURN. ROUTE It 149 *Raie $120.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Bt. Thomas. Michigan Central R II •* Chicogb. Choice of five railway routes "St. Paul. St. Paul, Minneapolis & Manitoba Ry •• Emerson. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Nav. Co •* Victoria. Canadian Pacific Nav. Co ** Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Ry '• Port Arthur. Caiiftdian Pacific 8.S. Line •' Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific Ry " Starting Point. VICTORIA, B. C, AND RETURN. ROUTE B ItiO *Rate$12^00 Canadian Pacific Ry to St. Thomas. Michigan Central R.R " Chicago. Choice of five railway routoH "St. Paul. St. Paul, Minneapoiis& Manitoba R.R ** Emerson. Canadian Pacific Ry "Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Nav. Co " Victoria. Canadian Pacific Nav. Co " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Ry " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry " Starting Point. VICTORIA, B. C, AND RETURN. ROUTE R 151 *Rate $100.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Owen Sound. Canadian Pacific S.S. Line " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry " Vancouver. Canadian Pacific Navigation Co •* Victoria. Return eanie route. WINNIPEG, MAN., AND RETURN. ROUTE R 152 Rates as follows I— From Quebec, $62.00 Montreal, $60,00 Prescott, $55,00 *' Toronto. 50.00 Ulagara Falls, 50.00 Detroit, 50.00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Owen Bound. Canadian Pacific S.S. Line " Port Arthur. Canadian Pacific Ry " Winnipeg. Return same route. * Bee note on page 6L RO RO RO Ft Ri tic M; bii tn fo T w P S TOURS. 61 WINNIPEG, MAN., AND RETURN. BOUTE It 153 Hates— Same as Jioute B 15'i Canadian PuciHc l{y to Owen Sound. Canadian PaciHc B.S. Liiu! " Port Arthur. Canadian PaciHc Ry ** Winnipeg. Canadian PaciHc Ry " Port Arthur. Canadian PaciHc Ry '* Starting Point. WINNIPEG, MAN.. AND RETURN. ItOXTTE Jt JS4 Rates— Same as Route It IJt'J Canadian Pacific Ry to Port Arthur. Canadian I'aciHc liy •' Winnipeg. Return eanie route. WINNIPEG, MAN., AND RETURN. BOUTE B 155 Bates as follows:— From, Quebec, $92.00 Montreal, $87. OO ** Toronto, 72.00 l*rescott, $82,00 Canadian Pacific Ry to Owen Sound. Canadian PaciHc S.H. Line " Port Arthur. Canadian PaciHc l{y " Winnipeg. Canadian PaciHc Py " Emerson. St. Paul, Minneapolis X: Manitoha Py '* St. Paul. Choice of Hve raiilways *• ( hicago. Michigan Central MM " St. Thomas. Canadian PaciHc P.y " Starting Point. WINNIPEG, MAN., AND RETURN. BQVTE 156 rates— Same as Boute 155 Canadian Pacific Ry to St. Thomas. Michigan Central li.li " Chicago. Choice of five railways "St. Paul. St. Paul, Minneapolis ^ Manitoba IJy " Emerson. Canadian PaciHc Py " Winnipeg. Canadian PaciHc Hy •' Port Arthur. Canadian PaciHc Ry " Starting Point. ♦Rates prefixed thus (•) will apply from any Canadian Pacific Railway sta- tion in the provinces of Onturio and Quebec, ami also from New York, PosLon, MafB.; Worcester, Maas.; Portland, Me.; H'lifax, N.S.; St. John, N. P.; Al- bany, N.Y.; Puftalo, N.Y.; Niagara Falls, Hamilton and Windsor, Ont.; De- troit, Mich. •The journey on the Canadiin Pacific Railway must begin at either of the following Junction points, viz. : Quebec, Montreal, Prescott, Brockvill.^ Toronto, St. Thomas or North Pay. Round Tours can be procured, reading in reverse route to that sl^own herein, without additional charge. The time limit on tours enumerated herein is six months, except to "Winni- peg, where the time limit is forty days. Tickets via Lake Route between Owen Sound and Port Arthur are good till close of navigation, Slat October. 02 AK EXCUnSWiV TO ALASKA. ALASKA TOURIST SEASON begins April and endH October. The intcuded days of sailing from Victoria, B.C., are as follows . — 8.S, OZYMPIAN, Jnne 13 and 27. J'lly 11 and 25. Aug. 8 and 22. Sept. 5 and 19. Oct. 3. -S.-S. IDAHO, June 20. July 18. Aug. 15. Sept. 12. S,S, ANCON, June 6. July 4. Aug. 1 and 29. Sept. 26. Berths in Alaska steamships can be procured through ticket agents, or from General Passenger Agent Canadian Pacific Ilailway, Montreal. Tourist tickets entitle the holder to stop over at any point on the Canadian Pacific Ilailway during their limit; on lines controlled by other transportation companies, they are subject to the local regulations as to stop-overs. Meals and berths are included in tourist tickets on steamers of the Canadian Pacific Steamship Line and of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company. SLEEPING AND PAELOR CAR RATES are as follows s - Between Quebec and Montreal, $1.50 berth ; 75c. chair. Montreal and Tor- onto, $2.00 berth ; $1.00 chair. Toronto and Owen Sound, 50c. chair. Montreal, Toronto and Port Arthur, $6.00 berth; Montreal, Toronto and Winnipeg, $8.00; Montreal, Toronto and Banff Hot Springs, $14.00; Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver, $20.00; Port Arthur and Banff Hot Springs, $!).0O; Port Arthur and Vancouver, $15.00. Between other stations in proportion. Slecping-Car Section, in Canadian Pacific cars, double the berth rate; State- rooms, three times the berth rate. Two persons in same party, ■when travelling from and to the same points, will be allowed to occupy a berth on one berth ticket, four a section on one sec- tion ticket, and six a stateroom on one stateroom ticket; but provided always each presents his or her railway passage ticket. Only those agents of the Canadian Pacific Railway at starting points of Bleeping or parlor cars, enumerated below, will hold diagrams of Canadian Pacific Ilailway cars for location of passengers, but ticket agents at other points can secure for passengers any accommodation required, by letter or telegraph, to TORONTO . . .W. R. Callaway, District Passenger Agent, 110 King St., West. MONTREAL. C. E. McPhkuson, City Ticket Agent, 266 St. James Street. OTTAWA.. . .J. E. Parker, City Ticket Agent, 42 Sparks Street. QUEBEC J. McKenna, City Ticket Agent, St. Louis Hotel. WINNIPEG.. G. H. Campbell, City Ticket Agent. Letters or telegrams from passengers direct to above agents will receive prompt attention. When ordering, be particular to state number of berths < r sections, etc., required, the train from and to what pointp, date of starting, and route desired. Dining-cars are run on all through transcontinental trains, the meals in which arc seventy-five cents each. GENERAL OFFICERS CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. HEAD OFFICES : MONTREAL, CANADA. 4( Sin Geo. Stepiien, nuit. .Preaident Montrt'jU W. C. Van IIounk Vici^-rivHidtMit Chaules Duinkwateu ...Secrt'tiuy " T. G. SiiAUGHNESHY Assistauit freiu^ral Miuiatjcr Geok«e Olds Geueriil TnifVic Manager Lucius I'uttle raflsctitfcr TraflK- Manai,'or " Henry Beattv Manager SteaniHliip I.iiicH & Lake 'I'l all ic Toronto. I. O. OoDEN Comptroller Montreal. W. SuTiiEiiLANi) TAYLou.TroaHurer " J. II. McTavish Land Coramiflsioncr Winnipct,'. AVm. Whyte GciuMal Superintendent Western Div'n.. " Haury AnnoTT General Siiperintemlent Paeilie Division. Vancouver, C. W. Spencer Act'g Gen. Superintendent Eastern Div.. .Montreal. Robert Keuu Gen. Freit,'lit and Pass. At,'t.,W, & 1\ DivH. Winnipeg. I). McNicoi.i- General PaHsenyer Agent, Eastern Div.. . Monti eal. G. ^f. PoswoiiTii As8t. Frt. Traflic Man., La8t(!rn Div " Fa. Tiffin (Jeneial Freight Agent, Ontario Division. Toronto, G. W. SwETT Supt. Dining, Bleeping and Parlor Carn. .Montreal. ADELAIDE \VS.. BOSTON Mass. j BUFFALO N. Y.. BKOCKVILLK, Ont.. CHICAOO IM... DETROIT MlHolha St. Messrs Adainson, Bell & Co., A^^cnts lor China. Archer Baker, Luropeuu Truttic Aiseut 17 .Tames St. •' " " " " 88 Cannon St. T. R. Parker, Ticket Acent 4i»2 Richmond St. C. E. McPherson, City Passenger A}?ent 2(>f) St. .Tames St. ,E. V. Skinuer, General Kastcra Aj;cnt 3^7 Broad wuy C. B. Hyde, Ticket Agent (ieo. Colbnrn CI ifton House. J. E. Parker, City Passenger Agent 42S|)arks St. C. G. McCord, Freight and Passenger Agent.. (! 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