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' errata d to e pelure, ?on d 13 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 REPORT OF E. B. BORRON, STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE, ON PART OF THE BASIN" OF HUDSON'S BAY BELONGING TO THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. ^xinitA fty #vd(jr of tfte f cflislatlve ^sis^mlrly. iorottt0 : PRINTED BY C. BLACKETT ROBINSON, 5 JORDAN STREET. 1883. ^ »—— V---— "> I *• \ ; /1/r^M Ci^' 7 ^^ I REPORT or E. B. BORRON, STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE, ON PART OF THE BASIN OF HUDSON'S BAY BELONGING TO THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. pUrittUd bi) ^nUr of the f f gislativ^ ^ssn^mljli!. Soroitto : PRINTED BY C. BLACKETT ROBINSON, 5 JORDAN STREET. 1883. % ^1 I • v5 Pi n CONTENTS. I. 5 Introductory j.^^^ Topography 3 Climate 7 Agricultural flesources ^^ Timber 13 Mineral Resources ^^ Other Resources ^^ Development and Settlement ^^ Social Condition ^^ Administration of Justice ^^ Conclusion *1 43 \ h \ h g I lf>\Mb \ I " ■" ^ir?, I'jjiiWiliwaMil i «tt: K^- AV fSst^-. ^^y v^o^' ,st5 ^Ipill ^ii^ '•^c yii'c/ish ,<'s^ i^/ir aVi«.'. »//^A/ PORTAGE DISTRICT aCOLD fi>A,,7»'. '^■^^y.^r^. -^-i'/zji ''^C ■< '"S COAL'^ "COAU vl-"' r=''%^l ^\^ OF /i •.ohv\ ^il. ^'Z' :TH" S^^^: v■»|^' . T O^ ^■m ^ ^: -z'/. ^OC^ .-C't4:'i ^'^: 2,'''*/v •^-N. COLE ,^-, :!,!P- <*o^ PIN ^AK/ii fOKTWUilA fMICHIPICOTEfl\P Michl iH'^r'/ff/f^i- Sni/NOA^ ^^EtllO^-^ 4 s^ ,J^^ i sKetch of the province OF ONTARIO. — 1 ^1 To accompany Reports of the Stipendiary Magistrates with respect- to ttie Northerly & Westerly parts oF the Province oF Ontario. The portion coloured PINK is that part of Ontafio in respect of which there is no dispute The portions coloured YELLOW & BLUE show that part of Ontario now claimed by Manitoba under Dominion Legislation. Theporhon coloured BLUE marks Jerri to ly now claimed by Manitoba which CANADA, before Confederation always treated as part of Upper Canada. Routes Followed by M!^ Borron. ■'<' '■:^fi L^a 'tt' V' / ftOt^ iMlfM I, CfUTMS rotkOHn XCK/W ^HlfM A CfLlTHS TOmOHTO. ^*^-= Toronto, 6th December, 1882. Thb Honourable O. Mowat Attorney-General : S1R.-I beg respectfully to submit herewith my report for the present year in In this report I have also incidentally given some information in reference to the topography and resources of an extensive and almost unknown region south £ the Hei^h of Land which may, I hope, be of more or less interest and value ^ I have the honour to be. Sir, Your most obedient servant, E. B. BORRON, Stipentl^ary Magistrate. 4 REPORT OF E. B. BORRON, ESQ., STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE, ON TUAT PART OF THE BASIN OF HUDSON'S BAY BELONGING TO THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. Having obtained permission to prosecute further explorations in the so-called disputed territory north of the Height of Land, I took passage on the steamer " Manitouliii "^ from CoUingwood to Blind River, on the 17th of May last. My intention was to proceed to the mouth of the Mississagua river some four miles west of Blind River, and after completing my arrangements, to ascend that river to the Hudson Bay Company's Post at Green Lake, and from thence continue my journey over the Height of Land to " Flying Post." In the course of my explorations last year, I had ascertained that there was a practicable, though rarely travelled canoe-route from Flying Post to Green Lake, and as I was aware that there was a tolerably good canoe-route from Mississagua Post to Green Lake, I felt confident that there could be no insuperable obstacle to prevent my going tlirough that way, if I could only obtain competent guides. On Hiy arrival at Flying Post, I purposed descending the Ahkuckootish or Ground-hog River to its junction with the Mattagami or south branch of Moose River, and thence down that river to Moose Factory. From the northern limit of tlie surveys for timber berths, to the junction of the Ahkuckootish and Mattagami Rivers upwards of two hundred miles, this route would lead me tlirough a new and almost unexplored country, and I hoped by adopting it, to obtain information of more or less value and importance to th'i Government. As is generally known, the steamer took fire in Manito waning Bay, and was burnt to the water's edge. In common with all those of my fellow passengers who were fortun- ate enough to escape, I lost everything I had on board. As this included the whole of my outfit, instruments, maps, and supplies, with the exception of flour, pork, and a few other stores which had been sent on by another boat, it is needless to say that such an uuforseen misfortune not only put me to much inconvenience but was the occasion of a good deal of delay, as well as expense. Much difficulty was experienced in replacing many indespensable articles that had been lost, as well as in obtaining suitable guides and voyageurs. I had expected to pro- cure a guide at Green Lake who would be able to pilot us from thence to Flying Post, but I found that the Hudson Bay Company's Post at Green Lake would be closed and the Indians all dispersed before I could arrive there. It was thus the 22nd of June before 1 was in a condition to make another start. It was some consolation, however, to find (as we afterwards did), that owing to the flooded condition, and very strong current in some of the stretches of the Mississagua River, it mmnmm I J would have been a very difficult matter iiileed, if not impossible to have ascended the river in our heavily laden canoe much earlier in the season. It may hs well to prefacnwhat I have to say of the various resourcoa of the country, with a short sketch of the route followed not only going to Moose Factory, but re- turning : This will be very brief as many particulars will be supplied when 1 come to treat of the " timber resources " of the territory. On the eighth day we reached Green Lake and on the eleventh of actual voyaging, we arrived at the Height of Land. During our aicent from Lake Huron we had been •compelled to make twenty-live portages varying from a few yards to nearly three miles in length. The rise from Lake Huron to the watershed on the Height of Land is, I think, between nine hundred and a thousand feet. The river below Green Lake flows with a very strong current rendering its accent exceedingly slow and labori- ous. Above Green Lake the route passes for the most part through lakes, small rivers, and creeks, so small indeed as sometimes barely to permit the passage of a canoe. Lake Winnibeegon is tne source of the Mississagua River. Our route, however, passed a few miles to the eastward of that lake. The Height of Land portage terminates at a lake called Wau-qua-ma-gaming or Clear-water Lake. It is five or six miles in length, and the source of the Ahkuckootish or Ground-hog River, one of the largest tributaries of the Moose. This river was followed for eighty miles and brought us on the fifteenth day to Flying Post. Some time was spent in explorations and obtaining information in reference to that part of the country. The navigation of the Ahkuckootish River below Flying Post was reported to be both difficult and dangerous. I was fortunate however, in obtaining, through the kind- ness of Mr. Thomas Moore, the officer in charge, the services of George and Henry M'Kay, said to be the best "bowsman" and " steersman " on the river. Leaving Flying Post we passed safely down the river to its junction with the Matta- gami, which was reached on the twentieth d:iy of actual voyaging. The distance from Flying Post to the junction is, I think, a little over one hundred miles. Pursuing our journey dowyi the Mattagami, another day sufficed to take us to the Long Portage. In three days more, or on the twenty-fourth day, we came to the junction of the Mattagami and Missinaibi rivers. This last is sometimes called the Brunswick River. Below this point the united streams are known as the Moose River. The following day we arrived at Moose Factory, thus completing the trip from Lake Huron to James' Bay in twenty-five days without reckoning detentions from bad weather or otherwise, or the time spent in explora- tions. The entire distance by this route following all the bends and turns of th<> rivers is roughly estimated at about four hundred and fifty miles. In a straight line, or to use a common expression, " as the crow flies," the distance is only about three hundred and fifty miles. Upwards of sixty portages had to be made, the longest of which was three-and-a-half miles. In addition to these a number of demicharges were necessary, or in other words part of the baggage and supplies had to be unloaded and carried over certain portages, while the canoe thus lightened was taken with the remainder up or down the rapids. The total rise from Lake Huron to the summit of the Height of Land is not less, I think, than nine hundred feet and the fall from thence to James' Baj» or the level of the sea about fifteen hundred feet. Having remained at Moose Factory as long as was necessary, and obtained through the kindness of Mr. Cotter such further supplies as were required, we left on the Ist of August on our return homeward. My intention was to re-ascend the Moose and Mattagami Rivers to Matawaga- mingue Post. The distance from Moose Factory to the junction of the Ahkuckootish and Mattagami Rivers is about one hundred and two miles, and from thence to Matta- wagamingue Post about one hundred and sixty miles. I had been informed by Mr. Moore of Flying Post that there was a practicable canoe route from Matawagamingue to La-cloche Post, on Lake Huron, that it passed through Whitefish Lake where the Hudson's Bay Company had a post, and thence down the Whitefish River to Lake Huron, that there were a great many portages and some small creeks to be passed, but no very ^e ascended the i of the country, Factory, but re- vhen 1 come to ual voyaging, we on we had been 3arly three miles Jeight of Land 'er below Green slow and labori- kes, small rivers, mgp of a canoe, however, passed a [ua -ma-gaming or ;he Ahkuckootish This river was ring Post. Some ) that part of the as reported to be trough the kind- 31'ge and Henry n with the Matta- [?he distance from s. Pursuing our ong Portage. In le Mattagami and 'low this point the arrived at Moose I twenty-five days ! spent in explora- nfi of thi' rivers is line, or to use a ree hundred and threo-and-a-half in other words certain portages, own the rapids. not less, I think, level of the sea obtained through left on the 1st of •s to Matawaga- Uikuckootish and thence to Matta- nformed by Mr. tawagamingue to Lake where the r to Lake Huron, sed, but no very formidable difficulties to be apprehended. H« had once travelled this route, when little more than a boy some forty years ago, and could only tell me thus much in reference to it. As it promised to lead me through a new and almost unknown country I deter- minded to follow this route if possible. The route from Moose Factory to Matawagamingue having been travelled over and described by both Dr. Bell and myself, I need only say that sixteen days of hard and unremitting toil cheerfully borne by my voyageurs, sufficed to take me to Mattawaga- mingue Post, where I met with a cordial welcome from Mr. Rae, the officer in charge. Here my Flying Post men, who had well sustained their character as guides, left me for their homes. Flying Post is, I should say, not more than fifty miles from Mata- wagamingue in a straight line, and in a north-westerly direction. The canoe-route, how- ever, is much longer. It will be remembered that I passed over it last year and estimated it roughly at eighty-five miles, the number of portages required in that short distance be- ing not less than twenty -two. It was now necessary to obtain two other voyageurs, one of whom at all events- should know the route I wished to take, as far as White-fish Lake, if not to La-cloche. In this we were dissappointed ; notwithstanding the anxiety of Mr. Rae to accommodate me, he was unable to procure a guide at or near the post. He, however, sent a young man with us who knew the way nearly to the Height of Land, where we should find some Indians, one of whom he expected would be willing to accompany us. Leaving Matawagamingue, the third day brought us to "A-jau-ni-gam-ing," a lake about seven miles in length, where the Indians we were in quest of have their hunting grounds. Here we found the shanties, and clearings, on part of which potatoes were growing nicely. But the only living thing at the place was a fat little heifer about a year and a half old. Where the Indians had gone we were unable to tell, so that all we could do was to wait and see if they would return. As there was a quantity of fresh venison hanging up in one of the wig-wams, we came to the conclusion that we would not have to wait long. In this prognostication we were quite correct, for on the afternoon of the following day we were gratified with the sight of five small canoes com- ing down the lake with the Indians we wanted. The man Mr. Rae expected to go with us did not feel able to undertake the trip, but fortunately his son knew the way and agreed to accompany us as far as La-cloche. After waiting another day to allow him to get ready, we renewed our journey on the 23rd of August. The Height of Land is not more than two miles from the south end of this lake, and was reached by means of seve- ral short portages separated by little lakes or ponds. The elevation of the summit is nearly the same, I think, as that on the Mississagua route, say about one thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. The distanje from Mattawagamingue to the Height of Land by this route is, I think, about forty-seven miles. In a straight line, however, I should guess the distance at not more than forty miles, and that in a direction nearly south. From Moose Factory to the Height of Land Portage following the deflections will be about three hundred and ten miles, but not more than two hundred and seventy-five miles in a straight line. We now began the descent toward Lake Huron, passing through several small lakes and creeks, with frequent portages for some five or six miles. We then arrived at th» upper or northern extremity of a large lake called Monabing, which is not laid down on any of the maps in my possession. It is from twenty to thirty miles in length, and of variable width, but probably not less than two or three miles on an average. It lies north and south and through it our route ran in a southerly direction for some twenty-five miles. The River Monabing flows from the extreme south-east corner of this fine lake. Our next stretch was down the Monabing River itself for forty miles, still in a southerly direction, to a lake, called by my guide Ma-zin-an-wa-ning. In the first thirty miles sixteen portages were necessary, the longest of which was about a mile. This valley, trough or gorge, through which the river pours its waters has been, as I believe, excavated out of the solid rock by ice during the glacial epoch or period. It is bounded by rocky ridges from one hundred to two hundred and fifty feet in height on both sides. These terminate about thirty miles below Lake Monabing, and the river issues into what has probably been a part of the lake below. Through this leve| country the course of the river is very serpentine and the current raoderato. Two port- ages only were made, one of which was rendered necessary by drift wood which had tilled up the channel for some distance. At the lower end of the gorge (it can hardly be called a valley) just referred to, the ridge rises on the east side to the height of two hundred or two hundred and fifty feet, and my guide informed me that in clear weather Lake Huron was visible from the top. We ascended it and obtained a fine view of the surrounding country, more particularly to the south and east. My guide pointed out to me the position of Lake Nipissing, White- fish Lake, Lake Huron, when visible, and of Lake Ma-zin-an-wa-niug. Ho also indicated the direction of La-cloche, all as I had afterwards reason to believe with surprising ac- curacy. Looking back to the north, the course of the gorge or glacial trough through which we had come, could be clearly traced, and its glacial origin more than surmised. Nor could I help wishing that my friend Mr. Garden, of the Canadian Pacific Railway Survey, had been there to judge of the feasibility of this as a route for the main trunk line to connect with the surveys of Messrs, Gamsby, Ritmsay and other civil engineers on the staff of the Canada Pacific Railway, north of the Height of Land. Messrs. Ross and Garden had preceded me up the Mississagua River this spring in the hope of finding a route that way, but had not, as I understood from other parties, been successful. I may as well mention here what I only discovered afterwards, that the lake below, through which the Monabing flows, and called Ma-zin-an-wa-ning, is that called Ver- milion Lake and represented as such, far from accurately, on the departmental maps. Thus Lake Monabing instead of being as I erroneously supposed the source of the Whitefish River, is really the source of the East Branch of the far greater and more important Spanish River. Again on the departmental map of 1880, or "Topographical Plan of the North Shore of Lake Huron" which professes to show recent surveys, this east branch is represented as an apparently insignificant stream barely traceable for many miles above its junction with the west branch in township No. 98, whereas this east branch, if not the main river itself, must be from its size as far north even as Monabing, much the largest and most important tributary of the Spanish River, and should be represented as such. I am persuaded that instrumental surveys of most of our larger rivers and their tributaries with the lakes at or near their sources, would be of great value both to the Government and the public, supplying as it would valuable in- formation in reference to the soil, timber and other resources of the Province, and afford- ing the practical explorer, whether he be prospecting for minerals, timber, or even for a homestead, invaluable aid and assistance. Lake Ma-zin-an-wa-ning, or Vermilion, is I should say about eight or nine miles long, reckoning to the first rapid at its eastern end. I did not however see the west end of the lake, from where we entered it and it may be longer. The width nowhere exceeds a mile. We have now come to rocks of the Huronian formation, and unlike the lakes on and near the Height of Land in the Laurentian region, the longer axis of this lake runs nearly east and west. The Monabing enters the lake on the north side and about two or three miles as I think from its western extremity. It or " the Vermillion," (but " Mona- bing" is a much better name) leaves again at the eastern extremity. Our route was down this river for some ten miles. The average bearing or course roughly taken is I think about south-east. In this stretch seven short portages were necessary. The fall from Vermilion Lake to the foot of the seventh portage or rapid, which is called " the' Matta- gami," also roughly estimated, is about ninety feet. Here the branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway from Callendar on Lake Nipissing crosses the river. Here too we saw the river for the last time. Our guide took an easterly course up a narro.w lake for about three njiles to a point on the south side where there was a portage. The lake extended some miles still further to the eastward. This portage was about a quarter of a mile long and terminated at a small clecr water lake, apparently half a mile in width and tliree quarters of a mile to a mile in length. Crossing thil in a south-easterly direction we camo to an- other portage, a little longer than the last, which brought us to the Honourable Hudson Bay Company's Post, on Whitefish Lake. Here I ascertained from Mr. Ross, the officer in charge, that the lake which my guide called Ma-zin-an-wa-ning was Vermilion Lake, and that its waters flowed into the Spanish and not into Whitefish River, as I had supposed. ito. Two port- vhich had tilled referred to, the I and fifty feet, e from the top. I particularly to pissing, White- e also indicated h surprising ac- trough through than surmised. Pacific Railway the main trunk vil engineers on [essrs, Ross and )pe of finding a cessful. the lake below, ;hat called Ver- le departmental 3scd the source ;reater and more " Topographical snt surveys, this ily traceable for ■lo. 98, whereas ir north even as iiish River, and s of most of our es, would be of )uld valuable in- ince, and afFord- or even for a ht ee I also discovered that where this route via Whitefish Lake, strikes off eastward below the last or Mattagami Rapid, the River Vermilion (or Monabing) turns abruptly to the south and south-west, becoming ultimately what is known as the East Branch of the Spanish River. There is an Indian village on Whitefish Lake some two miles from the Post, and the route from thence via Whitefish River to Lake Huron, is too frequently travelled and the country too well known, to require any particular notice or description. The length of this stretch is, I should say, about forty-five miles, in the course of which some nine or ten portages are necessary. The total distance from the Height of Land to the mouth of Whitefish River, I estimate at about one hundred and thirty-six miles, and from JameK' Bay to Lake Huron four hundred and forty-six miles. In a direct line, however, the distance from the mouth of Whitefish River to where this route crosses the Height ot Land will not probably exceed one hundred miles, and to Moose Factory three hundred and seventy-five miles. The number of days of actual voyaging was twenty -seven, as against twenty-five days by the Mississagua route. Eighteen miles more in a westerly direc- tion along the shores of the Georgian Bay took us to the Honourable Hudson Bay Com- pany's post at La-cloche. We thus left Moose Factory on the first of August and reached La-cloche on the first of September. I had expected that the difficulties besetting this route would have been much greater, and that a considerably longer time juld have been required for the trip, but was fortunate in having good men, a favourable season as regarded the height of the water in the rivers and creeks, and if not fewer at least shorter portages than I anticipated. At La-cloche my guide Lou. . and voyageur James, from the other side the Height of Land, were paid off, and supplied with a canoe and provisions for their return home. Thereafter I proceeded to Mississagua (my starting point) and paid off the two men, Robert Nolin, of Sault Ste. Marie, and Robert Nakanee, of Mississagua, who had accom- panied me throughout, and had proved themselves good and reliable voyageurs. I also settled with Mr. Edward Sayer, fur-trader there, but for- whose influence with the In- dians and willing aid and assistance, I should not have been able to obtain guide.s to take me over the Height of Land to Flying Post. This introductory narrative with the accompanying map, will show with sufficient precision I hope, the route which I have followed. I shall now under appropriate heads, give such information in respect to the terri- tory in question as I may have been able to obtain from personal observation or other- wise. Topography. The leading physical features of the territory claimed by Ontario have been already so fully described in former reports, that little remains to be said on that subject. Since my last report however, the Report of Progress of the Geological Survey for 1879-80 has come to hand. In it there is an admirable description of Hudson's Bay, and the regions lying adjacent thereto, by Dr. Bell, Assistant Director of the Survey, than whom, no one is better iaformed on the subject, having explored in an open boat no in- considerable portion of the bay, as well as crossed it from York Factory to Hudson's Straits, in the Honourable Hudson Bay Company's ship. I have therefore much pleasure in quoting from the report in question, p. 27, 0, et seq., where under the head "General Account of Hudson's Bay," Dr. Bell says : *' In the popular mind Hudson's Bay is apt to be associated with the Polar regions ; yet no part of it comes within the Arctic Circle, and the latitude of the southern extremity is south of London. Few people have any adequate conception of the extent of this great Canadian sea. Including its southern prolongation, James' Bay, it measures fibout one thousand miles in length, and is more than six hundred miles in width, in the northern part. Its total area is in the neighbour- hood of five hundred thousand square miles, or upwards of half that of the Mediter- ranean. It is enclosed by the land on all sides, except the north-east, where it com- municates by diffiirent channels with the outer ocean. The principal or best known of these is Hudson's Strait, which is about five hundred miles in length, and has au or nine miles the west end owhere exceeds ike the lakes on f this lake runs nd about two or (but " Mona- route was down ;aken is I think The fall from ed " the* Matta- 'anadian Pacific *ve saw the river for about three 3 extended some a mile long and d tliree quarters we came to an- ourable Hudson 0S3, the officer in ilion Lake, and I had supposed. 1 average width of about one hundred miles. •' Hudson's Bay, which might have been more appropriately called Hudson's Sea, i» the central basin of the drainage of North America. The limits of this basin extend to the centre of the'Labarador peninsula, or some five hundred miles inland, on the east side, and to the Rocky Mountains, or a distance of one thousand three hundred miles, on the west. The Winnipeg basin constitutes a sort of out-lior of the region more immedi- ately under notice, since the waters drain into it from the north, south, east and west, and discharge themselves by one great trunk, the Nelson River, into Hudson's Bay. The southern-most part of this basin, namely, the source of the Red River, extends down nearly to latitude 45°. The head waters of the southern rivers of James Bay are not far to the north of Lake Huron, while one of the branches of the Albany rises within twenty-five miles of the north shore of Lake Superior. Including the Winnipeg system, the basin of Hudson's Bay has a width of about two thousand one hundred miles from east to west, and a length of about one thousand five hundred miles from north to south, and its dimensions approach the enormous area of three million square miles. Over a great part of this region there is a temperate climate, and although the soil of much of it is comparatively barren, yet large tracts are very fertile. The numerous rivers and lakes of the first class, embraced ^vithin these limits, will prove of great value in the settlement of the country. Both the bay and strait are remarkably free from rocks and shoals, which might interfere with their free navigation. The groups of islands near the east side of the bay are surrounded by deep water, and a wide channel leads up the centre of James' Bay. Fortunately the main body of the great bay, which is the portion which may hereafter be frequented by shipping, is entirely without shoals, reefs or islands. The depth is very uniform over most of the bay, and nowhere does it present any great irregularities. It averages about seventy fathoms throughout, deepening to one hundred and upwards in approaching the outlet of Hudson's Straits, while in the strait itself the soundings along the centre vary from about one hundred to upwards of three hundred fathoms. The bottom appears to consist almost everywhere of boulder clay and mud. Near the shores a stiff clay, affording good holding ground for anchors, is almost invariably met with on both sides. " James' Bay begins at Cape Jones, on the east side, and Cape Henrietta Maria on the west, and runs south about three hundred and fifty miles, with an average breadth of one hundred and fifty miles. The east side of Hudson's Bay, including its southern pro- longation is known as the Eastmain coast. Between Cape Jones and Cape Dufferin, on the Portland promontory, and again in approaching Cape Wolstenholme, at the termina- tion of this coast, the land is high and bold, some points attaining an elevation of nearly two thousand feet above the sea. The country on the south-west side of the main bay, as well as that lying to the west of James Bay, is low and generally level, with shallow water extending a long distance out from shore. Both sides of Hudsi . Strait are high and rocky, but the northern is less precipitous than the southern. " Of the numerous rivers which run into Hudson's Bay from all sides, about thirty are of considerable magnitude. All those which enter upon the Eastmain coast appear to flow in a uniform course directly west, or parallel to one another, and as the height of land in the centre of the Labrador peninsula is furthest inland towards the south, the rivers which fall into the southern part of this coast are the largest, and the remainder become progressively smaller as we go north. Numerous streams converge to the head of James' Bay from all points southward of an east and west line passing through its southern extremity. The Moose, about a mile wide, is the principal of these. On the western side, the Albany and the Churchill Rivers are the longest, but the Nelson, with a course of only about four hundred miles, discharges the greatest body of water into the sea. Indeed this huge artery of the Winnipeg system of waters may be considered as one of the greatest rivers of the world. Few of the rivers of Hudson's Bay afford unin- terrupted navigation for large vessels to any great distance from the coast. During the season of high water shallow draft steamers might ascend the Moose and two of its branches for upwards of one hundred miles. Hayes River and two of its branches might also apparently be navjjgated by such craft in the spring, to points about one hundred and forty miles inland, and the Albany for nearly two hundred and fifty miles ; while larger steamers might ascend the Nelson for seventy or eighty miles from the open sea. Tha mMp< 9 dson's Sea, i» jin extend to I, on the east Ired miles, on more immedi- ast and west, ludson'a Bay. extends down 3 Bay are not ' rises within nipeg system, ed miles from orth to south, ailes. Over a 3 soil of much ous rivers and t value in the !e from rocks }f islands near 1 leads up the is the portion loals, reefs or it present any spening to one e in the strait wards of three ulder clay and hors, is almost ietta Maria on age breadth of 3 southern pro- )e Dufferin, on the termina- ition of nearly the main bay, with shallow Strait are high s, about thirty n coast appear g the height of the south, the the remainder ge to the head ng through its hese. On the Nelson, with a water into the considered as ay afford unin- During the md two of its jranches might le hundred and ; while larger jpen sea. Th» Nelson is the only muddy water river entering Hudson's Bay. Most of the others have a slightly brpwnish tinge, but their waters are perfectly wholesome, and contain only very small quantities of foreign matter. The Churchill which is the second largest river of Hudson's Bay, is a beautiful clear water stream, somewhat larger than the Rhine. It is remarkable for having at its mouth a splendid harbour, with deep water and every natural advantage for the purpose of modern conmierce. " The only harbours on the west side of Hudson's Bay are those formed by the mouths of rivers, but none of them, with the exception of Churchill Harbour, can be entered by vessels drawing more than ten or eleven feet, and only at high water, even by these. The Nelson may form an exception to this. Most of its estuary becomes dry at low tide, but a channel runs ♦hrough it near the centre, as far as the head of tide-water. I sounded this channel in a number of places in 1878-79 and '80, and although an average depth of about two fathoms at low water was found, continuous soundings throughout might have shown interruptions or shallower water in some places. As stated in previous reports, there is a section at the head of tide, or between the tidal portion and the regular inland channel of the river, in which not more than ten feet of water were found. This may e.x- tend for about two miles, above which an apparent continuous channel, with a depth of about twenty feet, according to our sounding.*, extends to the lowest limestone rapid, which is me first break in the navigable part, and is between forty and fifty miles from the head of tide, or from seventy or eighty miles from the open sea. If the section re- ferred to were deepened, steamers coming in from sea might enter this part of the river and find perfect shelter, or even proceed up the stream to any point below the rapid re- ferred to. In continuation of the channel running down the estuary, a Mead' of deeper water extends out into the bay, and forms the ' North River,' or ' Y'ork Roads,' with ex- cellent anchorage. The Churchill, unlike all the other rivers, has a deep, rocky and com- paratively narrow mouth, which can be entered with ease and safety by i,he largest ships at all stages of the tide. On the point at the west side of the entrance of the harbour stands the old * Fort Prince of Wales,' which is probably the largest ruin in North America. Although occupying a commanding position, and mounting about forty large guns, it was surrendered without firing a shot, to the French Admiral La Perouse, who destroyed it in 1772. The ruins of this large fort are shown in the accompanying wood- cuts, takfti from photographs. Along the west coast the rise and fall at spring tides amount to about eleven or twelve feet, on an average, and is pretty uniform, diminishing somewhat towards the south. It is greatest at the mouth of the Nelson River, where it amounts to about fifteen feet. The tides are lower all along the east side of the bay. In Hudson's Strait there is a very good tide, according to the report we have received of Acting Staff Commander J . G. Boulton's reconnaissance during the past summer. Geo- logically, the basin of Hudson's Bay, excluding the western or Winnipeg division, lies within the great Laurentian area of the Dominion. Cambro-silurian rocks, resting almost horizontially upon these, form an irregular border along the south-western side of the bay ; and in the valleys of some of the rivers they extend inland from one to two hun- dred miles. To the south and west of James' Bay Cambro-silurian are overlaid by De- vonian rocks, which here occupy a considerable area. The long chains of islands which fringe the east coast for nearly three hundred miles to the northward of Cape Jones, and also the main land in the vicinity of Richmond Gulf, are composed of bedded volcanic and almost unaltered sedimentary rocks, resembling the Nipigon series of the Lake Superior region, which may be of Lower Cambrian age. On the western side of the bay, from Churchill northward, quartzites and other rocks, which may also belong to the Cambrian system, appear to be largely developed. Valuable minerals may be looked for on this coast. The extensive level region around the south-western side of the bay, is overspread with a great sheet of boulder clay, which is generally covered by the modified drift. The rocks of the outlying or Winnipeg division of the basin comprise an extensive series, ranging from the Laurentian to the Tertiary." That portion of the coast of James' Bay which forms the frontage of the territory claimed by us, is low and shallow. From the eastern boundary to the western, with a frontage of more than one hundred and fifty miles, there are no harbours for vessels drawing more than ten feet of water. Vessels, however, drawing ten feet or under, can i I ^ enter and ascond both Moose and Albany Rivors, as far aa the Factories when the tide ia at its lioiglit. All the sailing craft employed at Moose Factory and I think, also those at Albany, even to schooners of ninety or one hundred tons burden must, at the approach of winter, bo hauled up out of the water on to the banks HOino twenty feet at least above the river, to escape damage if not positive destruction when the ice breaks up in the spring. The only deep and safe harbour that I know of, is at the north-eastern extremity of Charlton island, some sixty or seventy miles from Moose Factory, and nearly north of where our (iastern boundary is supposed to be. This was described in my second report. From James' Bay the land rises slowly towards the south at the rate of al)out three feet in ainile, as we ascond Moose River and its branches, until wo appngach what are known as " the long portages," distant from eighty to a hundred and twenty miles from Moose Factory, where the inclination increases considerably. This belt is a vast plain, the far grc^ater portion of which is covered with what the natives call muskego or muskegs, but known to us as peat-bogs or mosses. Underlying the peat, clay is almost invariably found wherever the bottom can be reached. This clay, as seen on the points of the poles thrust down into it, is a bluish gray colour. As seen in the banks of the ravines and rivers it is a light gray, sometimes a drab colour. The latter is more common in the second belt or zone above the long port- ages, and with stones of older rocks generally contains fragments of fossiliferous limestone from the Devonian beds to the north. The other clay also frequently contains boulders and stones of Laurentian, Huronian and Trap rocks. Both are calcareous, and therefore what may be called marls. Below these in the lower belt or zone of this territory a tough blue or slate coloured clay is met with. It often contains marine shells, but very few stones or boulders. Lime enters so largely into its composition, that if only suthciently indurated, it might be fairly classed as a limestone. Sand in the form of mounds and ridges is occasionally met with, but more generally it appears in a layer or stratum of no great thickness in the banks of the rivers, resting on the clays. The underlying rock in the lower belt is rarely seen, but where exposed is generally found to be Devonian limestone. No hills whatever occur in this lower belt, and the timber is confined to narrow strips along the water courses, and to islands in the larger rivers. Referring to the country lying between the Abittibi River on the east, and the Missinaibi River on the west, although there is a sudden rise of from three to four hun- dred and fifty feet in twenty miles at the long portages, and although too, there is a great deal of rock exposed in the bottom and banks of the rivers, still very little rock is met with elsewhere, being for the most part deeply covered by the clays of the boulder or drift formation. The country however, continues to be too dead or flat, and notwithstanding a per- ceptible tendency to assume the form of low ridges here and there, as we advance, the natural drainage is insuflicient, and peat mosses still overspread large tracts of what would otherwise be good land. No decided change in the character of the surface takes place until we approach the "tQth pai-allel. North of this the surface is not only flat, but there are few if any lakes. South however of this parallel, the country becomes gradually broken and uneven, rising into ridges from one to two hundred feet in height, and in the intervals between these we have frequent lakes, sometimes swamps, at others marshes, and not unfrequently areas of good arable land. Rock is often met with but generally confined to the banks of the rivers and the shores of the lakes. As we advance towards the south, not only docs the country become more broken, until at least one-third of the surface is covered with lakes, but there is a change also in the composition and character of the loose material overlying the rock. The clays or rather clay marls already referred to, give place to sand and gravel. There is a very marked increase too, in the number of boulders, and while there are always some of these erratic stones whose peculiar appearance or mineral composition, enables us to recognise them as natives of the far distant Eastmain coast, by far the greater number, although brought also from the north, have not come nearly so far. Many of them indeed have been manufactured, so to speak, almost on the spot, out of material of the ridges of n the tide in at Albany, ;h of winter, vii the river, :ing. Bxtromity of fly north of CO nil report, about three Lch what are r niiiea from i vast plain, or muskegs, )ttom can be II bluish gray sometimes a he long port- ous limestone ains boulders and therefore jlate coloured ilders. Lime light be fairly illy met with, in the banks 3 rarely seen, hatever occur r courses, and east, and the to four hun- )o, there ia a ittle rock is the boulder anding a per- advance, the acts of what surface takes only flat, but mes gradually it, and in the hers marshes, but generally more broken, change also in The clays or lere is a very some of these s to recognise iber, although indeed have the ridges of 11 Laurentian or Iluronian rock (whichever it may be) lying immediately and at no grout distance to the north of where they now rest. The character of the loose material on the surface, the rounded and "hog-backed ' shape of the hills nml ridges, the deep channels and gorges extending for miles in a northerly and soutlierly direction, (juarried by no visiltle hand or agency out of the hardest of rock, the polished surface in some places, and the numerous parallel and deep scratches in otiiers, afForJ strong if not absolutely convincing proof to my mind of tru- menJous erosion. The same evidence confronts us everywhere, not only north of the Height of Land, but over it, and down the southern slope to our great lakes, the very existence of wliich ia in my humble opinion largely if not entirely due to the same mys- terious power. Tiie only agent known to me, that would seem at all adequate to account for the phe- nomenon in question, is ice. Not ico in the form of icebergs, and impelled only by tlie feeble force of the winds or even ocean currents, but a solid sheet of ice moving as water does, and as glaciers are known to be capable of doing. This sheet of ice, too, must have been several thousand feet in thickness. Mr. George Uawson, F.(J.S., in his able and interesting Report on the Geological Resources of the Region in the vicinity of the 49th Parallel, tells us " that Laurentian and Quartzite erratics were found in abundance to the height of over four thousand feet," on tiie Three Buttes or Sweet-grass hills at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. As the Height of Land north of Lakes Huron and Superior will not I believe average more than tiiirteen or fourteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, it is evident that such a sheet of ice if continuous or equally thick, must have covered the Height of Land not less probably than two thousand feet. The great difficulty is to find the power or force which has been sufHcient to set and keep in motion (however slow) this prodigious body of ice. That the erosive agent has moved from the north towards the south the rocks themselves afford silent but convincing testimony. That tlie propelling power has been so mighty as to have been almost irresistible is equally certain. The hypothesis which appears to me most fully to meet all the requirements of the phenomena in question is, that during the long ages of intense cold, known as the glacial epoch, what has been called a " Polar Ice-cap" formed at the North Pole which con- stantly increasing in thickness, ultimately attained such a vast height that by the sheer force of gravity alone the ice at length began to spread and move in a southerly direc- tion, or from the Pole towards the Equator, overpowering every resistance that the in- equalities of the surface even when composed of solid rock could oppose. But whatever the agency may have been, that an inconceivably great quantity of rock has been moved so to speak from Natures quarries in the north, crushed and ground by her mills into gravels, sands and clays, transported hundreds of miles to the south, and then spread out forming immense stores of the raw material for soil in regions more favourable probably to animal and vegetable life than that from which the rock was taken. These are facts which no thouglitful observer who has visited the territory in which these vast operations have been carried on, can question, however uncertain he may be as to instrumentalities by which the work has been accomplished. Further speculation on this subject would be out of place here, but those who may desire it will find much interesting information in two articles by Dr. L. P. Gratacap, entitled " The Ice Age" in the " Popular Science Monthly" for January 1878 and November 1878. From the 49th Parellel southward to the Height of Land the country although more broken, is better drained, and much more generally timbered than the Hat plains to the north. The timber too is more valuable, as red and white pine are now found growing, more particularly on the higher and drier ridges. A great number of the lakes afford striking illustrations of what has taken place in respect of some already, and of a change which all without exception are undergoing, namely drainage, or filling up and conversion into dry land. This conversion is taking place most rapidly in respect of those lakes through which the larger rivers flow and is brought about in two ways. In the first place these rivers bring down vast quantities of sediment which settling in these lake basins, gradually fills them up. And in the second place the rivers are in many instances clearly seen to be cutting through and destroying the natural bank, reef or other barrier at the outlet or lower end of these lakes, thus permanently lowering, if not draining off the water 12 altogether. The BtepH in this procesB are, the converftion of the lake into a marsh, of the nmrsh into a Hwanip, of the r.wamp into dry land. It in a proceBH, which when com- plete, simple an it may apper, has elsewhere produced no inconsiderable proportion of th© tinest land in the world, and is doing a like good work here for posterity. Climate. V 1 The climate of this territory in respect of temperature is one of extremes. The win- ters are cold -the temperature fallinsj; sometimes as low as forty degrees hclow zero of Fahrenheit's thermometer, and occasionally rising to ninety degrees in the summer even down on the roast. Lust year it was on one occasion ninoty-four degrees in the shade .xt Albany Factory and ninety-two degrees at Moose Factory. The mean temperature of the summer at Moose Factory is about sixty degrees, varying two or three degrees above or below that average in different years. We have unfortunately no record of the temperature at any of the inland posts with the exception of Martin's Falls on the Albany River, and this Post, although more than two hundnid miles up the river, is still north of Moo.se Factory. The Meteorological Ser- vice, the head office of which is in the City of Toronto, has collected and is still obtain- ing most valuable and interesting information relating to the climate of almost every part of the Dominion. There are two stations in connection with this service on James* Bay — one of which is at Moose Factory and the other Albany. Observations have been made for a short time at Martin's Falls, but are now I believe discontinued. These sta- tions are, however, in the extreme northern part of the territory wo claim, and in which we are naturally most deeply interested. There are no stations in the central or southern divisions, and consequently we have no reliable scientific data to guide us. The means at the disposal of the service are doubtless too limited to allow of its Director establishing and maintaining stations everywhere at once, but I think it is very desirable to have some reliable information in reference to the climate of the central and upper or southern parts of the basin of the Moose River— embracing as it does some thirty or forty thousand square miles of territory. Dr. Bell is of opinion that the climate improves as we proceed northwards from the Height of Land to Moose Factory, the lower elevation of the coast, and other favourable influences, more than compensating as he believes for the difference of latitude. The sea- son, however, that Dr. Bell made his dangerous but remarkably successful exploration of the East- Main coast, was I think an unusually fine one, and hence it is possible that Dr. Bell formed a somewhat too high opinion of the climate on the coast, although it is un- doubtedly far suporior to what popular belief has generally supposed it to be. I myself consider that in many very important respects, the climate of the central and southern divisions of the territory is better than that on or near the coast. The only place in the territory where any reliable observations have been made in regard to the quantity of rain, is at Moose Factory, on the coast. The rain-fall iAcre forms no criterion on which to form a safe judgment as to what it may be in the whole territory, more particularly in the southern high-lands. From my own observations and enquiries, I feel safe in saying that, without being too wet, there is amply sufficient rain and dew to support the most luxuriant vegetation. At Moose Factory the rain-fall in 1878 amounted to twenty inches, and of snow to fifty-nine inches, making the total precipi- tation of melted snow and rain 26.86 inches, for that year. The number of days on which rain fell was eighty-four. These were distributed as follows : January 1 day, February 0, March 1, April 6, May 11, June 9, July 12, August 7, September 19, October 14, Nov- ember 3, and December 1 day. At Moose Factory, while there is quite enough of rain during the summer months, the rainfall is I think somewhat excessive in the months of August and September. Possibly this may be confined to the coast. The quantity of snow is much less than that which falls in the Province of Quebec, being not as much as half that at the city of Quebec itself. Nor is the snow-fall at Moose Factory nearly as heavy as at Gravenhurst, Parry Sound, and other places on the north shore of Lake Huron. The healthiness of the climate is unquestionable. SBTOid&i»-*» «>!'«V3fV. a marBh, ot when coin- •tion of the The win- low ZITO of miner oven t,ho shade .it •ature of tlie ^ :)8 above or cl posts with li more than ■olo}:jical Sur- still obtain- ilnioBt every CO on James* 18 have been These sta- md in wliich l1 or southern The means establishing [•able to have r or southern >rty thousand rtls from the Br favourable The sea- xploration of nble that Dr. ,gh it is un- I myself ,nd southern [»on made in rain-fall i/icre n the whole rvations and siifficientrain e rain-fall in total precipi- lys on which , February 0, )ber 14, Nov- gh of rain ssive in the e coast. The jec, being not loose Factory orth shore of 13 AoRICULTrRAL RbSOUUCES. It is only at the fur trading posts of the Honourable Hudson's Hay ('ouipany that ■any attempt has been made to cultivate the soil. A few of the Indians un the Matta- gaiui River, who trade at Mutawagamingue Post, are now trying to grow potatoes, and I trust that they i..ay ho fur succeed as to induce others to follow their example. The oflicers of tlie company know very little about farming as a general rule. Their lives from tlie time they were little more than boys, have been spent in the country and devoted to the fur trade. The conseiiuence is that the farming at the inland poses is of a rather primitive and unscientitic description, and confined cliielly to the growth of the potato as a Held crop. At the larger posts on the coast, particularly Moose Factory where a number of old countrymen aio employed, they understand how to grow the po- tato, and cultivate it well and successfully. But even at Moose very little attention is paid to drainage, and none whatever to the importance of a judicious course, or rotation of crops. The wonder to me is that the land so treated continues to yitild any crop at all. Where the agricultural operations have been so very limited, all that can be said on the Bubjeot of the crops that have been grown in the territory has been given in former reports. Having now, however, visited every post but two in the territory, and traversed it in various directions, it may bts expected that I should give the general con- clusions at which 1 have arrived on a subject of so much consequence. This I shall do, even if it be necessary to support n)y opinions by an appeal to some facts which have been already recorded in former reports. Connnencing with the cereals, we will take that first which is usually regarded as of the greatest importance and value : — Wheal. — I am strongly of the opinion that wheat may be successfully grown where the soil is suitable in all that part of this territory lying to the south of the fiftieth pa- rallel of latitude. This opinion is founded on the be''')f that there is no other part of the world south of that latitude where this grain has not or can not be grown; that the mean temperature of the summer in the territory south of that parallel is amply sufhcient to ripen or bring wheat to maturity ; and finally, that there are good grounds for be- lieving that wheat has actually been grown at Abittibi House, Flying Post, New Brunswick, on or about the forty-ninth purallel, and certainly at Lac Scul, or Lonely Lake, between the fiftieth and fifty-first parallel. More than this : I was told on the very best authority that Indian corn, a more delicate plant than wheat, came to maturity lust year at Osnaburgh House, on Lake St. Joseph, and north of the fifty-first parallel. Even at Moose Factory, in about the same latitude as Osnaburgh and situated on the ■coast, Dr. Bell tells us that he was informed that a few grains of wheat accidentally dropped, grew and came to maturity. There is hardly any evidence on the oth°r side, ■cerainly none entitled to much weight, and the probabilities are all in favour of the assumption that within the limits stated wheat may be successfully cultivated. Barley. — The hardier varieties of this grain can be grown further north than any other of the co-called cereals. In Scotland it grows on the Orkney Islands and in Shet- land as far north as the sixty-first parallel. In western Lapland the limit is about the seventieth parallel. In Russia it is cultivated on the shores of the White Sea, every- where soutli of sixty-six degrees on the eastern side, and of sixty-seven degrees on the ■western side. In central Siberia the northern limit of the growth of barley is between latitudes fifty-eight and fifty-nine. These facts are quoted on the authority of Mr. H. Stephens, F.R.S., author of "The Book of the Farn.," "The Farmer's Guide," and other standard works on agriculture, both in England and America. Mr. Stephens further states "that a mean temperature during the summer of 48°4' seems to be all that is neces- sary in Europe for the cultivation of barley, but that in the islands of the Atlantic a temperature three or four degrees higher appears to be necessary for its success". The territory awarded to our Province north of the Height of Land is situated be- tween the forty-eighth and fifty-spcond parallels of latitude, or from four hundred to seven hundred miles south of where barley is cultivated even in Siberia. Again, the mean summei temperature at Moose Factory, in the extreme northern part of the terri- tory, varies from fifty-eight to sixty-two degrees, and is probably higher in the central and southern portions. This is at all events ten degrees higher than the temperature, 14 ih which according to Mr. Stephens, " is the only indispensable condifi-^n for the cultivation of barley." I have seen barley growing at Pvupert's House and &i Moose Factory on the coast, and at Flying Post and Matawagamingue in the southern pa;'t of the territory. I have been told on what I consider good authority, that it has also been grown at New Post, at Abittibi House, at New Brunswick, and at Long Lake House. Thus the evi- dence is conclusive not only as to the perfect adaptation of the climate, but to the fact that this grain has been actually cultivated in the northern, central and southern divi- sions of tlie territory. All that even the most incredulous can contend for is that the crop is poor or that it sometimes failr "^o ripen perfectly. Now as regards the latter statement, I have no doubt that in the exl/eme northern part of the territory, bore ering on the coast, it m:iy fail in exceptionally wet and cold summers to come to perfect maturity. But this will not apply to the vast territory to the south, where barley will prove, in my opinion, a good and perfectly reliable crop. Nor do I think it would fail to ripen at Moose Factorv or even Albany, if suffijient attention were paid to the drainage of the land, to the selection of the seed, to the time of sowing, and to a proper course or rotation of crops. If the crop be poor (and it is by no means always so) icis in all probability owing to poor farming rather than to anything that is wanting either in the soil or climate. Oats. — This useful grain should grow wherever wheat will grow, indeed its growth is practicable in Scotland, Ireland, and other countries, where w heat will not succeed. My own belief is, that the hardier varieties of the oat may certainly be cultivated in the greater pirt of the territory. I have not seen it growing, however, at anv of the posts I have visited. I have been told that oats have been sown at Abittibi House, at New Bruns- wick, and even at Moose Factory, and came to maturity ; but other parties again said that the crop frequently proved a failure. This, however, may have arisen from the causes alluded to under the head of " barley." Rye. — In Germany, Austria, and Hungary, and other countries, rye is extensively grown, and forms the principal bread-stulf of a very large ];>roportion of the population. Ics cultiv ition does not extend, it is said, so far north as that of barley, but it grows in regions too cold for wheat, and on soils too poor and sandy for any other grain. Its ri- pening, in the opinion of some writers, can also be more confidently reckoned upon in cold rofrions, than that of any other grain. I have neither seen rye growing nor have I ever heard of any attempt to grow it in this territory. I am convinced, however, that at Mata- wagamingue in the southern part of this territory, and in the sandy areas on both sidea the Height of Land, th's important grain can and will be cultivated with very great ad- vantage. Peas and Beans. — These, which are called legumenes or leguminous plants, produce seeds much richer in nitrogen or flesh-forming material, than the grains — wheat, oats, barley, maize, rye, etc., called cereals. They form an aliment of great value, and are extensively grown in many parts of the weld where they are used as food by man and domestic animals. The Windsor bean and Kidney -bean are generally relished when young and green. A small variety of bean commonly known as the " Horse bean " is extensively cultivated in Great Britain, where it is highly valued in combination with oats as a pro- vender for horses. The kidney-bean when fully ripe, is a wholesome and very nutritive aliment, highly esteemed in this country and elsewhere, especially by the working classes, and commonly known under the name of haricot or white beans. I have not seen either peas or beans cultivated as field crops in any part of the territory. They are common, however, in the gardens even on the coast. At Moose Factory peas, kidney-beans and a small variety of the broad or Windsor bean seem to be unfailing crops. They grow well, and I have no doubt in ordinary seasons will ripen their seed. They are used, however,, chiefly, if not entirely, in the green state. The beans appear to succeed better and to be more prolific than the peas, which are not always so good. I have been surprised at the invariable excellence of the crops of both kinds of beans at Moose Factory. Nor have I ever seen a better crop of Dwarf- kidney beans than was growing at Matawagamingue when I was there last August (20th). The bean was of a brown colour, and a little larger tli in the white haricot. Mr. Rafr told rae that they came to maturity and were quite equ u to the white beau. 15 ,e cultivation ctory on the territory. I wn at New- bus the evi- to the fact luthern divi- that the crop er statement, ering on the ot maturity, irove, in my fail to ripen linage of the or rotation of ability owing climate. I its growth is ucceed. My in the greater posts I have New Bruns- is again said son from the 3 extensively e population. ■j it grows in rain. Its ri- 1 upon in cold have I ever that at Mata- )n both sides ery great ad- ants, produce —wheat, oats, lue, and are by man and young and s extensively lats as a pro- ery nutritive rking classes, ot seen either are common, yr-beans and a ey grow well, sed, however,. IS, which are the crops of op of Dwarf- ugust(20th). ot. Mr. Raft The vetch, a variety of the pea family, grows wild everywhere, but nowhere is it anything like so abundant as on the coast of James' Bay, So plentiful are they on the more sandy parts of the old beaches that I have sometimes thought that the Indians would do well to harvest a lot of them for use, at a pinch during the winter. With a lit- tle judicious selection and cultivation this vetch might become of great service in a coun- try, to the climate and soil of which it is so thoroughly adapted. Potato. — There is probably no food plant that is like)" ^ be of more importance to the inhabitants, present or future, of this territory, than x. . potato. There is none the cultivation of which has been so thoroughly successful in every part. The admirable fit- ness both of soil and climate for its growth has been established beyond dispute. No one who has seen the crops at Moose Factory, Rupert's House, New Post, and Matawa- gamingue, can entertain any doubt on this point. Whether viewed in reference to size, quantity or quality, the crops at Moose Factory and Matawagamingue this year would compare favourably with tho.so in the best potato growing districts in Ontario. They keep all winter in common root-houses, and are sweet and good until the following crop is tit for use. Peaty soil is particularly well suited to the growth of potatoes. As stated else- where, there are millions of acres of peat-mosses in this territory, very extensive areas of ■which can be easily reclaimed, and when this country is settled and means of transport provided, it is within the range of possibility, if not probable, that hundreds of thousan'ls of tons of potatoes may be grown and sent south to supply the wants of the people in the cities of Ontario and the northern states of the Union. Other Roots. — If in the nearer or more remote future, the breeding of cattle and dairy husbandry be likely to form important resources of this territory, as is by m means improbable, then the fitness of the soil and climate for the growth of root crops is of the greatest consequence. Among these the turnip is entitled to a p'ace in the front rank. I have seen small patches of turnips, usually Swedish, at most of the Company's posts in the territory and believe that on suitable soils, proper culture Avould ensure large crops of excellent bulb.s. The carrot, beet and parsnip can also be grown, but like the turnip have only hitherto been cultivated as gar- den crops. I know no reason why they should not one and all SHCceed in the field also. Green Vegetables. — Cabbages, spinach, lettuce, mustard, cress and radishes are grown without any difficulty. The cauliflower, so tender, as I thought, in respect of frost, appears to be one of the surest crops at Moose Factory, and is sometimes ready for the table as early as the first of August. Potato-onions also grow well, but the season is too short to grow onions of any size from the seed. The cut- worm is the great enemy of the gardener at Moose Factory, as it is in many other parts of Canada, and if the cabbage and cauliflower plants were not well looked after and protected, few would be left. Fruits. — The only fruits that appear to be cultivated in the garden are the red and black currant and raspberry. The red currant is remarkably prolific. Rhubarb also grows well. Other small fruits, such as the strawberry and gooseberry might, I am per- suaded, be raised with little trouble, for they are found growing wild in many places, and perhaps nowhere more plentifully or of finer quality than on the coast. With these we have the wild raspberry, a diminutive variety of blackberry which grows only a single berry on each plant, and a very small kind of cranberry. The Huckle-berry or blue-berry is found in great profusion from the long portages to the Height of Land. Indeed it may be said to abound from the coast of Hudson's Bay to the shores of Lakes Huron and Superior. It was nowhere in greater profusion or of finer quality than on the Height of Land itself. The berries gathered from one measured square yard as an experiment filled a large pint cup. At the same rate, an aero would produce two thousand four hun- dred quarts of this wholesome fruit. Even allowing that the berries were exceptionally plentiful on the spot in question, it is not the less true that could the quantity of fruit which grows in the country lying between Lakes Huron and Superior and the fiftieth parallel be approximately estimated it would appear simply incredible to those who have not seen the country during the berry season. It would dwarf into comparative insigni- ficance, in my opinion, all the other fruits put together. Without any rich or etrong flavour it is a pleasant, refreshing and exceedingly wholesome fruit and may, I think, be eaten in almost any quantity without danger. The natives are very fond of them, and 16 I I even gather and dry the berries for use after the season is over. But all that man can use is as a drop in the bucket; the almost unreduced bulk of the fruit forms a bountiful pro- vision of Nature for her other creatures. To the bcxsts of the field and the fowls of the air, and every creeping thing, these millions of bushels of fruit thus left over are as food; to some, perhaps only an agreeable luxury, to all doubtless a source of delight of which we can form no adequate conception. To none of all these, perhaps, is it a greater blessing than to the ant, that diligent and brave little pioneer who precedes man and earth-worms alike by centuries in the important work of ameliorathig and preparing the crude soil for the support of higher orders of vegetable and animal life. That an omnivorous animal like the bear should eat or even subsist for a time on these berries seems quite natural, but wlien we find among its consumers carnivorous animals such as the fox, the marten and the fisher, and such birds as ravens, wood-peckers and ducks, one cannot help feeling more or less surprised. The only other wild fruit that I shall notice is also a variety of Whortleberry. This is a bush or tree not very unlike the wild cherry in appearance. North of the Height of Land it attains a height in some places of ten or twelve feet, but is generally about six feet. The fruit grows singly, not in bunches or clusters on the tree. It is of an oblong or pear shape, larger than the blue-berry, but smaller than the grape. When ripe it is of a purple or blue colour. It is sweeter and has more flavour than the Huckle- berry, and is preferred by the natives to it. It too is found all the way from James' Bay to Lake Huron, but nowhere did I see it in greater perfection than on the Mattagami River. The fruit is not only pleasant and wholesome, but the juice would, I am persua- ded, make an excellent wine, and the tree is worthy of cultivation and of a place in our orchards or gardens. The High-bush Cranberry and the Hazle-nut are also met with in many parts of this territory, but in travelling south I did not observe any nut trees until I came to Little Long Portage on the Mattagami River, nearly a hundred miles from James' Bay. So soon as the Canadian Pacific Railway is extended through this tei'ritory, the gathering of these wild fruits will afford the natives a lucrative employment, as it does now to many of those on the north shore of the Georgian Bay. Nor to the great mass of the inhabitants of our cities will an overflowing abundance of such wholesome fruits as this territory affords in unlimited quantities, be otherwise than agreeable, the dearness of those cultivated fruits which can be exported to foreign countries placing them to a great extent out of the reach of the families of workingmen. Nor is there anything unreasonable in the supposition that a country possessed of a climate which enables the uncultivated soil to produce spontaneously such a variety and abundance of wild fruits, may be capable of doing a great deal more with man's powerful aid and assistance. No attempt has been made yet, so far as I know, anywhere in this territory, to grow apples, plums, or ..berries. I am inclined to think, however, that these and other highly prized fruits might succeed in the southern, higher, and drier parts of the territory. I should be much more hopeful of their doing so than on the north shore of Lake Superior. On the south side of the Height of Land, and coming down in some places to within a few few miles of Lake Huron, the country like that for a considerable distance north is full of lakes. These are not generally very deep, one result of which is that the water heated by the sun's rays becomes much warmer throughout than the water of lakes Huron and Superior. I found the temperature of the water of Lake Monabing at the surface 70° Fah., and at fifty feet in depth it was still not less tlian 62^ I am of opinion, therefore, that orchards planted on islands or on the warm, dry ridges of bouldery or gravelly soil, lying between such lakes or even to the south of them, would not be likely to suffer from summer frosts, the chief, if not only obstacle to the growth of many valuable fruits. I saw on Whitefish Lake, Indian corn planted in just such a locality as that I refer to, and this circumstance, which I have noticed elsewhere, goes far to convince me that the climate of a wide belt of territory on both sides the Height, of Land, between Lake Huron and James' Bay, is so tempered and modified by tii •- warm waters of the numerous small and shallow lakes, which cover probably one-third of i|j_ that man can a, bountiful pro- be fowls of the are as food; to it of which we reater blessing ad earth-worms e crude soil for ivorous animal ite natural, but ihe marten and ot help feeling Whortleberry. North of the out is generally 3 tree. It is of grape. When han the Huckle- rom James' Bay the Mattagami Id, I am persua- if a place in our any parts of this ; came to Little les' Bay. LS territory, the ment, as it does he great mass of ilesome fruits as , the dearu'jss of them to a great y possessed of a oh a variety and man's powerful erritory, to grow these and other of the territory. 1 shore of Lake ! places to within lerable distance suit of which is hroughout than le water of Lake not less than 62" •111, dry ridges of of them, would lo to the growth 1 in just such a suwhere, goes far sides the il>nglir. modilied by th ■. ably one-third of 17 the country, as to admit of the cultivation of many of our most valuable kinds of fruit. Grasses. — Whatever doubt may remain in the minds of any as to the agricultural value of the country north of the Height of Land in respect of its grain-growing capabili- ties, there can be none in regard to its fitness to produce the more important roots and grasses. From the Height of Land northward to the coast of James' Bay nothing on the north shore of Lakes Huron or Superior can exceed tlie luxuriance of the native grasses. These, however, are limited to beaver meadows, alluvial lands along the banks of the rivers, marshes in vioinity of the lakes, and to a broad belt on the southern coast of James' Bay ; where covered with forest, bush or peat mosses, little grass is to be seen. I have not met with a field of cultivated grass in the whole territory. At those posts of the Hudson Bay Company where cattle are kept, they obtain their hay either from the marshes bordering upon the inland lakes or from the salt marshes on the coast. Some however, of our cultivated grass-se«ds have been sown in former times at several of the posts, possibly with the view, rather to improve the pasture, than for hay. Be this as it may, white clover is to be seen at almost all the posts, and red clover, sown some fifteen years ago at least, is still common in the fields at Flying Post. Timothy likewise grows ad- mirably In this territory, being quite able, like the red clover, not only to endure the cold of th;! winter, but to mature its seed, as is proved by its being still found on portages where the first seeds were accidentally dropped many years ago. These facts though meagre, are important, enabling us, as they do, to form at least some idea of the fitness of this territory for pastoral pursuits. Cattle. — With one doubtful exception not only man but all the domestic animals usually kept by him enjoy excellent health in this territory. The only exception is the horse, and the only place Albany Factory. Several horses having died unaccountably at this post, the Company have not made any further attempt to keep them there. The cause, whatever it may be, can hardly be the climate, as that differs but little from Moose Factory, where the horses are remarkably healthy. Cows and oxen are kept at all the principal posts, and I have invariably found them wherever I have been, healthy and in fine condition, pretty good evidence of the salubrity of the climate and excellence of the pasture. At Moose Factory, where some sixty head at least are constantly kept, a certain number are slaughtered every Fall, and are quite fat, although then taken straiglit from the grass. The cows yield a large quantity of good milk. Skeep. — There is a small flock of sheep also at Moose Factory. They appear to be of a common and not very large breed. It is necessary to house them at night and watch them during the day, to protect them from dogs, of which numbers are kept by the In- dians. They seem to thrive pretty well notwithstanding, and are, so far as I know, sub- ject to no particular disease. Hogs. — A few pigs, seemingly well-bred, are kept. They are allowed during the summer to run at large on an island opposite the Post, and what they can gather for themselves is supplemented with potatoes and waste from the kitchens. They are thus maintained in good healtli and growing condition, but cannot be fed up fit to kill without grain or meal in the Fall, which is I presume given to them, for the home-cured hams are exceedingly fine. Poultry. — It is impossible to keep poultry at or near any of the fur-trading posts unless they are enclosed in a well-fenced yard. The Indian dogs, unbroken and half-starved, would worry and devour any fowls chat were suffered to run at large. But for this the common barn-door fowl might be reared and kept with great advantage. The turkey would do well also with full liberty to range about during summer. The vast numbers of wild-fowl which migrate to and spend the summer months in this territory affords sufficient proof of its fitness for geese and ducks, both of which might no doubt be easily bred and reared. In conclusion under this head, the agricultural resources of this territory are, as will now have been seen, various and by no means unimportant. The climate has been shown to be such : — That we have good reason to believe wheat, oats, barley, and rye, as also peas and beans can be successfully cultivated. 2 18 That excellent crops of potatoes and turnips can be grown in any part of the territory, and that other roots such as the carrot, beet end parsnip will in all probability succeed. That cauliflowers, cabbages, and all the couinion vegetables raised in the northern part of Ontario can be likewise grown at Moose Factory and at other posts south thereof. That the cultivated grasses, red clover ar.d timothy, grow lu.Kuriantly, mature their seed and survive the winter. That wild fruits of vai-ious kinds, and valuable of themselves, are spontaneously produced in great quantities, warranting the inference that cultivated varieties may be suc- cessfully and proGtably grown in the territory. That live stock, horses, cows, sheep, pigs, and poultry thrive remarkably well in every part of the territory, with the exception of Albany Factory, where horses alone for some unknown reason have not lived. The soil, as might be expected in a territory so large, is variable, ranging from clay loams at or near the coast, to light, sandy or gravelly loams towards the Height of Land, and in some sections very extensive peat-mosses. These peat-mosses are confined chiefly to the territory lying to the north of the forty-ninth parallel. The southern limit, however, of the peat-moss region, is I believe very considerably north of the forty-ninth, if not even of the fiftieth parallel, west of the Missinaibe Branch of Moose River. These peat-mo.sses repose on clay mai'ls, and although not immediately available for culti- vation, I have hardly a doubt vast tracts will be eventually reclaimed and converted into good arable land. Along the banks of the rivers, even In this northern belt, there is a strip of good land. The islands and river bottoms have a rich alluvial soil. Above the junction of the Mattagami and Ahkuckootish Rivers this alluvial or bottom land is still more extensive than below the Long Portage, and much of it that is probably flooded for a week or two in the early spring might be turned to very good account as meadows or otherwise, there being no danger whatever of flooding after the subsidence of the spring freshet, caused by the melting of the snow. As we approach the Height of Land and the country becomes more broken, the dry ridges will aff'ord tine pasture, while portions of the lower slopes where not too stony, and the river bottoms may be cultivated. The swamps, if drained, would frequently make excellent land, and the marshes will always bo more or less valuable for grass and hay. I frankly admit that the development of the agricultural resources of this territory must be the work of time ; that it will require capital, intelligence, experience and energy. I believe, however, that the people of Ontario will be found equal to the task. If not, I am at a loss to know where we shall find those who will. But on whomsoever the task may fall, once opened up by means of roads and railways and the soil reclaimed, there cannot be a doubt that the agricultural resources will alone be sufficient to employ and maintain a large population in comfort, if not in affluence. Timber. No one can travel through the United States or Canada without being struck with the enormous extent of once timbered land that has been cleared up or reclaimed from the forest. By far the greater portion of tlio timber has been cut down, piled into heaps and burnt on the spot, in order to get rid of it, the sole object being to clear up and cul- tivate the land. Another portion of the timber has been used for fuel, either by the owner or others to whom he may have sold it. Lastly large quantities, more particularly of pine, have been cut down, to be hewn into square logs or pieces, or sawn into boards and scantling, commonly called lumber. For this " lumber " there is a rapidly increas- ing demand both at home and abroad. An regards the land specially cleared with the view to cultivation, there is very little chance of its ever being replanted or again be- ■coming a forest. Nor is it probable that much of the second description will be allowed to grow up again. Of the third division only, namely that on which the pine and other trees have been cut for lumber, is any considerable proportion of the land at all likely to 19 tho territory, 1 probability Lortbern part : posts south re their seed usly produced 3 may be suc- wcll in every [•ses alone for ring from clay eight of Land, onfined chiefly outhorn limit, lie forty-ninth, Moose River. liable for culti- converted into a strip of good junction of the more extensive • a week or two )therwise, there [freshet, caused d the country ns of the lower he swamps, if ,ys bo more or this territory ice and energy, ask. If not, I soever the task eclaimed, there to employ and .u>' struck with reclaimed from )iled into heaps lear up and cul- 1, either by the ore particularly wn into boards rapidly increas- leared with the ed or again be- will be allowed pine and other 1 at all likoly to be left uncultivated, with the resulting possibility of being again re-clad with forest trees. Estimates have been made of the quantity of pine timber yet remaining iu the United States, and of the length of time it may be expected to last. The data, however, on which such estimates are based are so uncertain and fluctuating that little or no reliance can be placed upon them. Tliis much, however, we may feel pretty well assured of : 1st, That the area or reserve of timber land is rapidly dimishing, and will continue to dimin- ish in a still greater ratio ; 2nd, That the consumption of timber, already enormous, is rapidly increasing, and must continue to increase almost indefinitely ; 3rd, That the best and most accessible timber lands or limits have been and will continue to be the first to be .stripped of their timber ; 4th, That the cost of placing in the market lumber from inferior and remote limits will hereafter be greater than now or than it has been heretofore ; 5th, That as a necessary consequence of these premises, subject to temporary fluctuations and depressions, the price of timber must surely rise. From all which it may be reasonably inferred that timber lands which from their re- moteness, inaccessibility or the inferior quality of the timber, are now considered worth- less, cannot fail to become in course of time of very great value. This brings me to a point I am anxious to make and to impress on the Government and people of our Province, namely, the prospective value of the so-called "disputed territory," north of the Ileiglit of Land in respect of its timber resources. In order to this, I shall put what I have to say into the narrative form, commencing at my starting point this season, namely, the mouth of the Mississagua River, which enters Lake Huron a little to the west of the eighty-third meridian. With the exception of some pine still left on the Indian Reserve no considerable body of pine is visible from the river, until we approach the Oak Rapids, about eighteen miles up. Below this there is a greater or less breadth of river bottom land, the timber on which is mostly elm, maple and birch, with a few pine and other kinds of trees. Above the Oak Rapids, and from thence to Long Portage, which I take to be another fifteen miles, there would appear to be a tolerable quantity of good white pine. At and above Long Portage, bush-tires have destroyed most of the timber on the banks of the river, until we come to where Mr. Wright, of Barrie, has been getting out squared timber, about fifteen miles above Long Portage again, nr say fifty miles from the mouth of the river. There are eight falls and rapids in this distance, the most formidable of which is tliat at Long Portage. Tlie Mississagua River is from two to three chains in width and brings down a large quantity of water in the early spring, but it subsides rapidly and is very shallow in the summer. The current rims strong throughout, but is particularly heavy above the long portage. How far Mr. Wright's timber had been hauled before reaching the river at the place above referred to, I cannot say, as we did not go back far enough on the road to see. I did not, however, observe any good pine on or near the banks of the river even at this place. At the Grand llapid, some fifteen or sixteen miles above where Mr. Wright's timber was bi-ought out, there is a limited area of country lying some five or six miles along the banks of the river which, if not entirely, has in a great measure escaped the ravages of recent fires, and the timber is in consequence superior to any that I noticed elsewhere. A few miles above the Grand Rapid, or say about seventy-five miles from Lake Huron, we enter the first lake. This lake although not now apparently more than four or five miles in length, has I think at one time been very much larger. Like most others situated on large rivers, this lake is being gradually drained or converted into dry land, partly by the sediment brought into it from above, and partly by the wearing away and deepening of the channel at the lower end or outlet. Although this is the first lake on the main river, there are numerous lakes on the smaller tributaries lying °^ both sides of the Mississagua. At the upper or northern extremity of this lake the Kid-da-mug or western branch of the Mississagua comes in. This and the White River, which enters from the east about mid-Vfiy betweeen Upper Slate Falls and Long Portage, are the two principal tributaries of the Mississagua. Following up the main river eastward for about eleven miles, we come to where the river I again forks. One branch, called the Winnibeegon, falls in from the north, taking its rise in a large lake of the same name, near the Height of Land. The other or easterd [branch derives its waters chiefly from Green Lake and others lying to the east and north- 5a8t. Tliis point is about ninety miles from the mouth of the Mississagua, and there is .1; 20 a portage here called the Shingwauk, or Pine Porta.L From a point some four miles above the Grand Rapid to thia junction, a stretch of some eighteen or twenty miles, but little pine of any sor*^ is met with. Red pine, however, seems here to be taking the place of white pine. Our most direct route would have been up the Winnibecgon, but that stream is so crooked and difficult of navigation that our guide took the other or eastern branch, which in six or seven miles brought us to Green Lake. This lake is said to be from si.s; to eight miles in length, and four or five in width, but the islands, of which it contains a number, render it impossible to see the whole of it at a glance and thus estimate its size. Crossing it in an east-north-easterly direction, our route led us to a small river, called Round Lake River, which enters Green Lake near its eastern ex- tremity, a little to the eastward of where the old fur-trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company formerly stood. The Post is now situated on another and smaller lake, some three or four miles to the east. From the junction of the Winnibeegon to this point, say fourteen miles, the principal timber is red pine. The trees are sound and healthy appar- ently, and may average forty or forty-tive inches in circumference, although some of the larger ones are as much as sixty inches circumference three or four feet from the ground. We now ascended Round Lake River to Round Lake itself, thence to what is called in Indian, "the Lake that Runs Through." These lakes are situated in one of the narrow glacial channels or troughs alluded to elsewhere as being a common feature on or near the Height of Land, and running (as in the present instance) in a northerly and southerly direction. Our route left "the liake that Runs Through," near what appeared to be its northern ex- tremity and by a portage three-quarters of a mile in length we passed over a ridge nearly one hundred feet in height and intersected the Winnibeegon Branch of the Mississagua. This stretch, namely from where we left Green Lake to where we meet or intersect Winnibeegon River, I estimate roughly at about ten or twelve miles in length. It is well timbered through- out chiefly with white and red pine. The white pine attains eight feet in circumference at the butt, red pine four to six feet, white spruce five to six feet, cedar fou. feet and white birch and balsam about the same. On the summit of the ridge over which the port- ago passes and some 1 250 feet or more above the level of the sea, I saw and measured three white pine, standing within less than ten yards of each other, which averaged eight feet in circumference at the butt, and would give four or five logs each, the lower two if not three apparently free from knots or any other fault or blemish. With such facts as these before us, it is absurd to contend that the climate on or near the Height of Land will not admit of the growth of valuable timber. We then ascended the Winnibeegon River until we were within not more than half-a- mile, according to my guide's statement, from Winnibeegon Lake. At this point a tributary comes from the east, up which our route lay. This stretch following all the turns and bends of the river is not less I think than twenty-four miles, for the river is very crooked. If the late Mr. A. P. Salter's map of this part of the country be at all correct, howevei*, the distance is not more than fourteen or fifteen miles in a straight line. The course although constantly changing i.s, on the whole, northerly. So far as the rivers and lakes on Mr. Salter's map are located from actual instrumental survey I have no doubt they are correct, but much of his information must have been obtained from Indian sources, and I am in- clined to think that in some respects, and particularly in the course of the Winnibeegon River the man is incorrect, as it evidently is incomplete. This upper portion of the river flows in all probability through what has been in ancient times the bed of one or more lakes, and the ridges which formed the original banks or boundaries of these lakes are rarely if ever seen. The soil on the lower groiind where not wet and swampy is for the most part barren and sandy, and it is to this circum- stance alone, I think, must be attributed tho poorness of the timber and the almost total absence of red or white pine. My guide informed me that there are a great many red and white pine on the ridges around Winnibeegon Lake. I was sorry that our route did not pass through this lake. I intended examining it on my return from Moose Factory, but as mentioned before my voyageurs anticipated great difficulty in returning this way at a season when the water is usually very low, and I decided to take another route. 21 ime four miles enty miles, but iiking the place inibeegon, but took the other ike. This lake but the islands, at a fflance and route led us to its eastern ex- ) Hudson's Bay iller lake, some ) this point, say healthy appar- igh some of the rom the ground, what is called in le of the narrow e on or near the ly and southerly 3 its northern ex- ridge nearly one ssissagua. This ^ct Winnibeegon mbered through- in circumference .1. feet and white which the port- w and measured which averaged , each, the lower ish. With such IV the Height of more than half-a- point a tributary ! turns and bends ery crooked. If ect, however, the 3 course although and lakes on Mr. t they are 3orrect, es, and I am iu- ;he Winnibeegon 1 what has been med the original the lower ground is to this circum- 1 the almost total pine on the ridges )ugh this lake. I tioned before my L when the water Resuming our journey we now loft the Winnibeegon River and ascended the tributary or East Branch just mentioned. The width of the stream at this place was not more than about a chain. Its course was very crooked, at first easterly, but becoming after we had passed some few miles, northeasterly, and so continued until about the end of the seventh mile, which brought us to a rapid in which there is a very considerable fall. Here it was necessary to make a portage about one-third of a mile in length. This was the twenty-third portage reckoning from the mouth of the river. Eight or nine miles more on an average course of about north-east brought us to a narrow lake, the length of which, however, was not less than five or six miles, the longer axis lying as usual nearly north and south. This again forms in my opinion a portion of one of tho.se channels before alluded to as having been excavated by the current of ice which enclosing millions of boulders and bearing an inconceivably great burden of stones, gravels, sands and clay, would appear to have forced its way in one vast sheet of unknown thickness over the Height of Land, during what has been called the glacial period. This channel I think may be traced across the Height of Land to the north, and it is by no ,means improbable that the depression in which "the Lake that Runs Through" is situated some twenty or more miles south in nearly a direct line, may even form another part of it. The nature of the country and character of the timber between this lake and Winni- beegon River, differs little from that passed through in the preceding stretch up the Winni- beegon itself. The banks of this East Branch are for the most part low and marshy, or otherwise sandy. Fires too, have run over this section so generally, within the last twenty or thirty" years, that Mr. Salter describes it on his map as "burnt country." I do not think how- ever that the marshy, wet, or ever t' Iry, sandy flats bordering on the stream have ever grown much if any white or red piin. . Tamarac, alder and willows, have been the prin- cipal growth on tha wet ground, and Banksian pine on the dry sandy flats, which have, I suspect, also formed the bottom of former lakes. The higher riJges, only seen at a distancs on this stretch, have however undoubtedly produced red and white pine of good size and quality. Our next stretch commences with the lake just referred to. This lake, the name of which my guide did not know, is not more than six miles long, by half-a-mile wide. The ridges on the east and west sides are low, apparently rarely exceeding one hundred feet in height. Nice groves of red and white pine are visible here and there, particularly near the upper or northern extremity. Here we made a portage (the twenty-fourth). This portage starts from the north-eastern extremity of the lake and runs in an easterly direc- tion over a ridge, the summit of which is at least one hundred feet above the lake. It is a mile long and terminates at a very small creek, the water of which comes from the north and flows southward. The soil on the top of this ridge is a sandy loam and I was pleased to find with trees of other kinds a scattered growth of clean and healthy white pine, from six to seven and a-half feet in circumference at the butt, and running up frequently forty feet from the ground without the vestige of a knot or branch. This was especially interesting as we were now close to the divide or watershed on the Height of Land, and nearly if not quite as high. On the lower ground the soil was peaty, and tamarac and spruce were common, the larger trees being about four feet in circumference. Embarking on the small creek at the east end of this twenty-fourth portage, we found the water so shallow and the channel so crooked that we had the greatest difficulty in ascending it, for the first mile. It then opened out into a sudcession of little marshy ponds with shallow connecting creeks for about two miles, during which our course was on the whole northerly and ended at last in a muskeg or peat-moss. Here we came to the Height of Land Portage. This portage (the twenty-fifth since we started) is about three- quarters of a mile in length, and ascending to the height of sixty feet, descends again towards the north nearly if not quite as much, terminating at a good sized lake called Wa-qua-ma-ga-ming or Clear-water Lake. The Height of Land or divide is, I should say, about fifteen hundred feet above the level of James' Bay, to the north, and nine hundred feet higher than Lake Huron to the south, but no reliable estimate can be based on only one or two readings of the barometer. 22 lltH Tlie distance from the mouth of MisHissagua River to "the divide" or watershed on the Height of Land by this route, I estimate very roughly at about one hundred and sixty-five miles. In a direct line however, as shown on Mr. Salter's map, it is only one hundred and five miles. I did not observe any red or white pine on the last portage, but there were consider- able numbers on the same ridgo within half-a-mile of where the portage crossed it. Thus in respect of both climate and soil the whole southern slope from the summit to the very shores of Lake Huron, is beyond dispute, a good pine-growing region. Turning our faces to the north we once more embark and commence the long de- scent to James Bay. Clear- water Lake, or Wa-qua-ma-ga-ming, is the source of the •' Ah-kuc-koo-tish" or Ground-hog River. But of this fact neither I nor my voyageurs were aware until some days after. It is about six milos in length, and from half a mile to a mile in width. The longer axis like the lakes immediately south of the watershed pointing nearly north and south. The water as its name would imply is very clear. The ridges forming the shores on the east and west sides are of moderate height, that on the east bearing an irregular but by no means inconsid(!rable quantity of pine. There is a scattering growth also of apparently good white and red pine on the west side, but less numerous thati on the east. The other trees consist chiefly of spruce, Banksian pine, balsam, white birch and aspen. My guide told me that some few sugar maple of a fair size grow near the shores of thi» lake, but I did not see them. On reaching the northern extremity of the lake we entered its outlet, a little stream about a chain in width, having a rather rapid current and sufficient depth of water at this season of the year to float our canoe nicely. Down this stream we took our way for twenty-four miles, at the termination of which we came to a lake called " Cache Lake." The river is very crooked, our course changing frequently as often as ten times in a mile. The average bearing however of this stretch is north-north-east, or thereabouts. The first twelve miles is through a marshy and comparatively flat country, which when not marshy appears to be dry and sandy. It resembles indeed the country lying contiguous to the upper part of the Winni- beegon River, on the south side of the Height of Land. No high ridges were seen after we left Clear- water Lake. A low reef of Laurentian rock now oud then crossed the river occasioning a fall or a rapid around which we were obliged to make a portage, but other- wise rock, excepting in tiie form of boulders, was rarely seen. Like the Winnibeegon, the river throughout the far greater part of this stretch seems to flow over what has formerly been the bottom of one or more fresh water lakes. In the lower half the reefs and ridges are both higher, but nowhere did they rise to a greater elevation tlian one hundred feet, and rarely so much as that. Throughout the whole distance there is hardly a thousand acres in a block over \\^iich fire does not seem to have passed some time or other within the last forty or fifty years. Consequently very few fully grown or large trees are met with. Those that there are consist of spruce, tamarac, Banksian pine and bal- sam on the drier ground with occasional spots on which aspen, white birch may be seen On the lower and wetter land, alder, willow and more rarely black ash may be found. Black ash however only appears in the last few miles of the stretch, and the size is not more than from six to ten inches diameter. I did not ob.serve either white or red pine, until we approached Cache Lake when they are once more visible on rather high ridges to the north-west. In the whole distance from the south end of Clear-water Lake to Cache Lake, which I roughly estimate at thirty miles following the bends of the river, ten portages were nece.ssary, the longest of which was about a mile. The total fall does not exceed one hundred feet I think, or little more than three feet per mile on an average. Cache Lake, the beginning of the next stretch or division of our journey is about three miles long, in an east-northeasterly direction, and about half a mile in width. A schistose rock (Huronian) hore forms the shore. Near the eastern extremity a small stream falls in from the south. The number of lieads of deer and other animals, stuck up on poles, as trophies of the chase, would appear to indicate a good hunting country. Leaving Cache Lake by the river which flows from its eastern extremity, another mile brought us to a rapid with a fall of nearly four feet, which was run successfully. 23 or watershed on le hundred and ,p, it is only one e were consider- rossod it. II the summit to igion. ace the long de- kuc-koo-tish" or ware until some in width. The early north and rming the shores ing an irregular growth also of liaii on the east, irch and aspen, le shores of this i, a little stream pth of water at e termination of loked, our course { howtiver of this i is through a •s to be dry and ,rt of the Winni- I were seen after crossed the river rtage, but other- Viunibeegon, the lat has formerly roofs and ridges ,tion than one e there is hardly massed some time y grown or large ilan pine and bal- rch may be seen may be found. II the size is not -^hito or red pine, high ridges to the :e to Cache Lake, ver, ten portages does not exceed journey is about le in width. A irn extremity a id other animals, a good hunting streinity, another run successfully. This was as far as my guide had ever been before. Flying Post was still, as we supposed, a long way olF, and as we might miss it altogether, it would hereafter bo necessary to proceed very cautiously, for in the event of losing our canoe or provisions in any of the numerous and unknown rapids, it would have gone hard with us, especially if unable to find the post. Hor(^ the river took a strong easterly b(^nd, sometimes opening into and forming small lakes or ponds, at other times contracting to its usual size. It hoLl this course for about nineteen niiltss, following nearly, as it appeared to mo, the strike of the Huronian rocks at or about their junction with the Laurentian, In this stretch five more portages were required, the total fall being seventy-five feet, or say four feet in a mile. The river then find- ing a passage, turns north, crossing the Huronian ridges, and at the end of nine miles tum- bles into a largo basin, at the south end of Lake Matagaraa. In this northerly stretch (though but nine miles in length) five more portages had to be mad(;, and tiie fall, very roughly estimated, is not less, I think, than 175 feet, or about 19.^ feet per mile. The total length of this stretch, reckoning from the upper end of Cache Lake to that of Mata- gama, is about thirty-two miles, or sixty-two miles from the Height of Land. Now, as regards the timber. Although red and white pine appeared in some numbers on the ridgos near Cache Lake, and a few trees at other pointit on the route, there is no pine of any importance whatever, until we come within two or three miles of Lake Mata- gama. The timber, where any, consists mostly of spruce, tamarac, Banksian pine, white birch and aspen. But the fact is, the country has been too generally and recently burnt over, to allow of the growth of large trees of any kind, however favourable tlie soil or climate might be. The last two or three miles however of this stretch, h;i(l not been over-run by recent fires, and there is a good growth of mixed timber, among which I saw white pine and spruce as much as six or seven feet in circumference. Before we reached Lake Matagama, I bad discovered that the river wo had been following from Clear-water Lake was really the same as that which bolow Lake Mata- gama is called the Ahkuckootish or Ground-hog River, and that it svould lead us direct to Flying Post. I had, in fact, a.scend(!d this river to a tributary which comes in from the eastward six or seven miles south of Lake Matagama last year on my journey from Flying Post to Matawagamingue Post. Flying Post was now only eighteen miles distant and all doubts as to our being able to find it were removed. Lake Matagama, reckoning from the termination of the last portage to the end of slack-water about a mile above Flying Post is at least seventeen miles long. In width it varies from a quarter of a mile or less, at the extremity, to as mucli as two miles else- where. Its course or bearing nearly north and south. About seven or eight miles from the upper or southern extremity, it throws off a long arm on the east side This arm, although sixteen miles in length will not average half a mile in width. The bearing of the longer axis is north-east and south-west. It is very deep, and the shore on the ftorth-west side steep and precipitous. It has every appearance of having been formed by ice, as elsewhere described. The ridges run from fifty to two hundred and fifty feet in height above the level of the lake, and although sometimes bare, are gene- rally covortvd with a light soil. By far the greater part of tliis section of the country has been more or less denuded of its timber by fire. Some of these fires date back a generation or more ; others have occurred as recently as last year. There is ample evidence of there having boon a fine growth of pine, both white and red, and of the fitness of this part also of the territory to produce good merchantable timber. Tlie outlet of the river is at the extreme north end of the main lake. Here it soon forms a rapid, which can, however, be run by good canoe-men at any season. Half a mile below this rapid on the left hand bank, is the Hudson Bay Company's Post. Our route since passing the Height of Land, may be briefly summarised, as follows : — 1. From the Height of Land to the junction of a largo stream from the west, twenty-six miles, with an average course of north-northeast. 2. From the junction of the above stream, four miles above Cache Lake, to the fifteenth portage, a short distance below the junction of a large stream on the south-east side, twenty-seven miles, on an average cour-se of east. From fifteenth portage to Flying Post, twenty-seven miles, average course north to north-northeast ; in all eighty miles by the windings and bendings of the rivers and lakes. In direct lines these distances would be much less. \ i i'l 24 It may bo remeinborecl by some of tlio readers of this report, that a imiiibor of years ago, RlesHors. Salter and Sinclair, Provincial Land Surveyors, were instructed by the Gov- ernment of the day, to run an exploration line in latitude '17° r)G' nortli, starting respec- tively at Micliipicoten Kivcr, Lake Superior, and at some point on the Upper Ottawa. It was expected that these two parties would have met, but for some unaccountable reason thoy failed to do so. I am told by l\Ir. Thomas Moore, the officer in charg(( of Flying Post, on the authority of Indian hunt«'rs, who have seen both lines, that they did not over- lap, but w(!ro correctly run and pointing, as they express it, straight for each other, and would have met, or nearly so, had they only boon extendi'd a few miles further. This exploration line cro.ssed, I am told, the upper end of Lake Matagama. Leaving Flying Post with fresh guides the river immediately opened out into a lake some six or seven miles in length and two miles wide;, which is called Ahkuckooti.sh, or Groundhog Lake. In about eight miles, following a north easterly cour.se we came to the first rapid which might fairly enough be considered the end of the lake, as above that there is little or no current. Below this for the next thirty miles the river pursutis a north- north-easterly course It then runs for the most part between north- west and north-north- west for some t(!n miles, terminating at the lower end of the Long Rapids. This stretch from Flying Post to tins lower end of the Long llapids is in all, I think, about forty- eight miles. In this distance there are numerous rapids, most of which were run. It was necessary to make, however, si.x portages and several short demi-charges. The fall (like the distance, roughly estimated) may be about two hundred and fifty feet. There has been at one time a great quantity of line red and whit(! pine on Lake Ahkuckootish, and even now a good deal still renjains on islands, peninsulas and other parts, that have escaped the fires which have apparently made such tremendous havoc among the forests all over the country. Good white pine too, are seen on the ridges lying ofi' quite a distance to the east of th(! lake. As we go north the pine di!creases, and after we leave the lake it is not met with very often, or in considerable quantities any- where near the river. We saw, however, single trees and small groves as much as twenty- live miles below Flying Post, and one of my guides told me that on the banks of a lake lying to the west of the river and some fifty miles north of Flying Post, (in which part of the territory he himself hunted) both red and white pine may be s(!en growing. The only pine, however, that we observed on the bank of the river north of the long rapid, was the Banksian pine This part of the territory is a net-work of lakes as far north as the forty-ninth parallel, or some sixty miles north of Flying Post, and I have little doubt that more or less red and white pine will be found on the drier ridges and in the sheltered hollows, and ravines bordering on these lakes. It is the nature and chara* ter of the soil and country rather than of the climate which her^ limits the pine forests to the territory lying south of the forty-ninth parallel. North of the forty-ninth parallel, in all that region lying between our eastern bound- ary and Messinaibe River, the country is too flat. As a consequence of this and the pre- valence of a clay soil or subsoil, the natural drainage is imperfect, and the surface wet. These conditions favour the production of sphagnum or bog-moss, the long continued growth and decay of which has produced the peat bogs or muskegs, which cover the far greater part of the territory in question. Ou these peat bogs (till drained) neither pine nor any other timber can grow. The other trees found in the region lying between the Height of Land and the forty-ninth parallel are spruce, balsam, cedar, Banksian pine, and tamar^c, all of which attain good useful sizes. Among leaf-bearing or deciduous trees, again we, have wliite- birch, poplar, aspen, alder, willows, black ash, and a few maple, elm, and black birch. The three last, however, are neither numerous nor of large size. I need not reiterate what I have said in fornusr reports in refercjijo to the timber in the northern part of the territory. Having, however, on our return from Moose Factory followed another and little known route, some fifty miles to the east of that by which we ■went, it will be proper to give here a description of the timber met with in the region thus passed through, more particularly the pine timber. Ascending the Mattagami Branch of the Moose River, the first pine met with was a red pine, on the east side, a little below the Sturgeon Falls, and about seventy miles north S5 uiubor of years ted l)y the Uov- Uiutiiig rcspoc- Uppor Ottawa. )uiiUil)l(i r(!ason arjj'u of Flying ny did not ovor- viidi otlior, and furtluT. This out into a lako Ahkuukootish, ! we canio to tho ivo that there ia irsues a north- ,nd north-nortli- 1. This stretch ik, about forty- i wiTi! run. It iruos. The fall f feet. e pine on Lake peninsulas and emendous havoc n on the ridges i decreasf^s, and quantities any- much as twenty- II the banks of Post, (in which seen growing, orth of the long i of lakes as far ost, and I have er ridges and in ;ure and charat the pine forests r eastern bound- :his and the pre- he surface wet. long continued ch cover the far ed) neither pine : Land and the rtic, all of which we have white- ud black birch. to the timber in Moose Factory lat by which we h in the region met with was a ?nty miles north of the Hudson Bay Company's Post at Mattawagamingue. Mr. Austin, C.E., when en- gaged in running one of the lines for the ('anndian Pacific Railway, calculated the lati- tude of this post to be 47' 53'. Thus it would appear, as previously notice, causes frequently so obscure or minute as to bo almost, if not altogether imperceptible to us. The most trifling difference in the composition, tho wetness, dryness, hardness, softness, coarseness, firmness, or even in the colour of the soil, the presence of some insignificant parasitic plant or insect, the absence or presence of some othcir insect, bird or animal necessary for the* protection of some plants or trees against tho ravages o parasites, or for tho dissemination of their seeds. These and such- like influences determine alike the nature of the forest and its inhabitants. From this, I think, the inference is perfectly legitimate that whereas the existence of healthy, well-grown n-d and white pine tre(;s in certain portions of this territory is conclusive evidence of the suitability of the climate, soil, and other conditions within such areas, their absence, elsewhere, is no proof whatever of the absolute unfitness of such other areas of country, possessing a like climate and soil, to grow these valuable trees, but simply, that temporarily at least, the areas in question are a little better adanted to ' the growth of some oth(;r plant or tree, and hence naturally such other plant or tree has taken the place of the pine. But the conditions which constitute the fitness of a territory to grow many kinds of trees, and yet give the supremacy to one, are not unchangeable. On the contrary they can be shown to be constantly, though in many cases slowly changing, and with .such, corresponding changes must take place in our forests. But some of the conditions may be suddenly altered, and that to such an extent as en- tirely to change the whole face of tho country for several generations. We will take for instance " fire," one of the most potent of all natural agents in the accomplishment of such sudden changes, and we find that in the territory claimed by Ontario on both sides the Height of Land, thousands of square miles, in times past chiefly, if not entirely covered with splendid forests of pine, have within the present century been over-run by fire. These tires destroyed much, and in some cases all the pine timber, and with it more or less of the soil. I have no doubt that over large areas ev( n the seed perished. As a result of these altered conditions, quick-growing but comparatively short-lived trees, and those whose seeds are capable of being brought from a distance by the wind or by birds, have Vjeen the first to spring up and gain pos.se.ssion of the soil. Thus in passing through this part of the territory we frequently see nothing for miles but aspen, poplar, white birch, alder, willows, and such like, where fine large pine trees once flourished, and will, in my opinion, undoubtedly grow again. I have in- the course of former explorations found pine growing at the lower or DHn drier ridgcR lirnuglioiit this good hIzc nnd iko Mftttaganii. hn HhorcH h»'iiig particularly to- il littln to tlie in considoralde T/and. diial)lo rod and horw in the ani- oi'H, jioKSPsa, on ral)l«! conditioMH y a cortain area onH of existence tree with which more than that, order of titneHS, id plaiitH, all of mt all of which far from heing a ;ree of fitness if > "balance" by r one way or the to be almost, if imposition, the colour of the mce or presence ( plants or trees Thi'se and such- .H. as tlio existence this territory is ions within such nfitness of such 9 valuable trees, )etter adanted to plant or tree has CSS of a territory »t uncliangeable. slowly changing, 1 an extent as en- We will take complishment of io on both sides r, if not entirely jeen over-run by and with it more fd perished. As short-lived trees, the wind or by Thus in passing )ut aspen, poplar, se flourished, and ' at the lower or 27 north-weHtern tnd of Lake Abittibi to the east — and at the lower or nartheustern ex- tremity of Brunswick Lake on tiie west. This year it was mtt with both on the Ah-kuc- koo-tish Uivi>r and the MaLtagami Uiver, nearly as far north ; and I feel convinc«'d that in all the territory lying to the south of the forty-ninth parallol nul and white pine will not only grow but grow well. If I am correct in this opinion, the area of the pinn growing region north of thti Height of Laml and oast of the eighty-fourth im-ridian Is not less than twelve thousand squaro miles. Making (ivery allowance, therefore, for the surface covered by lakes, swamps and marshes, such a vast public domain oven for ito forests alone cannot fail to prove of very groat value to our Province. North of the forty-ninth parallel, large spruce may be seen scattered along tlie batiks of the rivers all the way nearly to James' I5,iy. But the larger trees are confined to a narrow })elt, and wliile they will bo vaiual)le in the future for local purpo.ses, I do not think they are of much economic importance at present. Owing to the fact that north of the forty-ninth parallel the land, a f)eavcr, and the fifth year ho had caught three, making in all nineteen beaver in five yeara from one pair. This was a remarkably good return, especially when we consider thatthoy are entirely self-supporting, both summer and winter. But what I wish to remark more particularly in this connection is, that this gent'eman frankly admitted ho had been trying the whole time (five years) to catch the old beaver, but in vain ; for up to that period their extraordinary sagacity had enabled them to elude the traps to which their inexperienced offspring had regularly fallen victims. It is not that in the whole territory the quantity of game, in the aggregate, is insufficient to maintain the wretchedly small number of inhabitants ; but that game is so scarce that the hunter, let him cover as much ground as his strength will enable him to do, cannot obtain sufficient day by day, during the winter season, to keep himself and family alive. Neither deer nor boar are at all numerous. Some few caribou and moose- deer are killed in the central and southern part of the territory ; but they are very scarce I think in the flat Muskeg region, near the coast. They are much more abundant on the Eastmain coast, and throughout the whole of the Labrador peninsula. The moose-deer is only met with on or near the Height of Land. Of winged game ptarmigan and grouse, often called partridges, are the only kind which remain in the country during the winter. Sometimes the i)tarmigan or white grouse come from the north in considerable numbers, and when they do so are a God- send to the natives ; but they are by no means a reliable source of food. The variety of grouse most frequently met with, is what we call the " spruce partridge ;" although the rufled grouse or common partridge of southern Ontario is frequently seen in the southern and central region. Both these varieties breed in the territory. Wild fowl are obtainable in considerable numbers in the spring and fall, especially on or near the coast, but leave for the south before winter sets in. Pigeons, unaccount- ably to me, are very scarce in the territory. Nor are small birds of any kind at all numerous, excepting on the coast and islands in the Bay. The fish in the fre.sh water lakes and rivers are neither so plentiful or good as south of the Height of Land. In some few places a small kind of sturgeon is caught, and is good of its kind. Pike, however, and suckers are I should say the mo.st important as a food supply ; the former, indeed, under the name of jackfish, being in many places all the natives can get during the winter. Some of the lakes contain whitefish and lake- trout ; the pickerel or dore is also caught in some of the rivers. These with a few speckled trout, and in some places a variety of chub, are the principal kinds of fish in the interior of the country. In the estuaries of the large rivers and in Hudson Bay itself, there are other species ; these, however, have been fully described by Dr. Bell. On the whole the food supply is precarious and uncertain ; and seasons of plenty bear, I fear, but a small proportion to those of scarcity if not actual dearth. It was stated in my first report on this territory, that the only hope I entertained of relief from this unhappy condition of the natives was in the opening up of the country. 1 am still of that opinion ; and this is one reason why I am anxious to see the Cana- dian Pacific Railway located as far north as the interests of our Province and the Do- minion will permit. Even admitting that the natives may not nominally receive a greater money value for their furs than is now paid by the Honourable Hudson Bay Company, all the necessaries of life would cost the Company very much less than they now do, in consequence of the cheapness of transport by rail compared with what it is by canoes. Thus at inland posts, such as Matawagamingue and Flying Post, they could give the Indians twice as much flour, oatmeal, pork, lard, sugar, and such like, for their furs as they can possibly aflPord to do at present. Some of these Indian families (every member of which frequently traps and hunts) catch from two to three hundred dollars worth of furs in the season, and might live really very comfortably if the price of the necessaries of life were only moderate. I am satisfied too, that as soon as the country is opened up a very little encouragement will induce the natives to turn their attention to the cultivation of the soil and the keeping of cattle. The Indians with their families generally gather at the Posts soon after the ice leaves the rivers, bringing the furs they have succeeded in getting during the winter. Most ■ .iajuiii;. ^'iPiriiH')' istaai^'iLZ- ■. 41 3. For four ireo, making jooil return, and winter. 3 gont'eman I old beaver, led tliem to itims. ggregate, is t game is so enable him himself and and moose- ey are very •e abundant nsula. The e only kind m or white i are a God- e variety of Ithough the he southern , especially unaccount- kind at all )d ight. as south and is )ortant as a y places all and lake- !w speckled the interior f, there are I of plenty entertained lie country. 3 the Cana- id the Do- receive a Y Company, low do, in by canoes. Id give the 'urs as they member of »rth of furs iries of life 1 up a very tivation of > ice leaves ber. Most of the adle-bodied men are employed from one to three months during the summer, taking the furs to Moose or Albany factories, and bringing back the supplies needed at their own posts. Those voyages or trips are usually made in canoes or boats. Some- times this brigade, as it is called, consists of forty or fifty men. The brigade is accom- I)ani(d by one or more officers and the white servants, usually Orknoymen, at thr posts. The white servants and the natives work together, eat together, an I associate together, on equal terms. Even the officers often takn part in the conversation, and describe or explain to the Indians in their own language, matters which they would otherwise know nothing at all about. This association on their voyages and at the posts, continued year after year for several generations has, in my opinion, had a very important influence on the Indians as a means of education. The discipline, the steady labour, the necessity of working together for the attainment of a common object, are all calculated to teach them valuable lessons. They are, too, more or less keenly alive to the approbation or disap- probation of '^ ' "leers and fellow voyagers — a powerful incentive to good, and equally strong restrawi^ .^m evil. Thus there is little or no shirking of a fair share of the labour, whether it bo hauling, poling, paddling, or carrying on the portages ; but all seem to work together cheerfully, bearing heat or cold, rain or storm, and the incessant attacks of flies, with patience and fortitude. Either chis or some other influence makes them generally honest, wonderfully forbearing towards each other in word and act, anything like quarelling being very uncommon. Watching, as I have sometimes done, when several of them were eating out of the same dish, I hardly ever noticed anything which appeared like greediness. On the whole they seem to be actuated by a feeling of fairplay which has not unfrequently excited my admiration. These lessous must have been learnt chiefly I think in the canoe and on the voyage ; for at the inland posts to which I particularly refer, missionaries have had little opportunity nf inculcating the principles of Christian, luoraiity. I think they are intelligent and teachable, and have formed a high opinion not only of the progre.ss already made towards civilization, but of their capacity for further improvement; and I sincerely hope and trust that before long the opportunity may be aflbrded them of materially improving their condition. Administkation of Justice. Situated as we are in reference to this territory, our Claim and the Award of the Arbitrators unacknowledged, without houses to live in, or a court to meet in ; with neither constable or gaoler, or anyone in the territory that would be willing, probably, to act in either capacity ; without a gaol or a lockup, and without the commonest means of travel, by which criminals could be safely sent four hundred miles to the nearest prison, I may say that I have looked forward, with a feeling of some uneasiness to the time when it might be absolutely necessary, cost what it may, in the performance of my duty, to commit some one to gaol. The quiet and inoffensive character of the people on the one hand, and the great in fluence and control which the officers of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company possess, on the other, enabling them as it stil' does to settle many little differences without appealing to the law ; together with the fact that the serious crimes which have occurred have been committed in territory out of my jurisdiction, have fortunately relieved me so far from this unpleasant necessity. Even when our claim to the territory is acknowledged, and when every other arrangement is completed, it is certain that until the people have been in some measure educated to it, that the administration of justice must still be imperfect, owing to a reluctance on the part of the natives to lay informations, make complaints, or give evidence, even when they know of crimes which have been committed, or have been actually wronged or ill-treated themselves. In the interests of good order and justice, however, I am persuaded that thio unsettled and unsatisfactory state of affairs cannot be allowed to continue any longer. I have now examined, and in this and previous reports have described as fully and fairly as I am able, that part of the so-called " disputed territory " lying on the north. sid9 of the Height of Land. These reports show : 48 That the climate is remarkably healthy, the cold in winter being not quite as severe as in most partb of the North-west, and the mean summer temperature sufficiently high to bring to maturity, in two-thirds at least of the territory, all the more important grain and root crops, if not flax, hemp, hops, and other crops of a j-ke nature which are as yet untried. These reports also show, that although a very large proportion indeed of the surface is covered with lakes, marshes, swamps, and particularly with " muskegs" or peat-mosses, there still remains a great quantity of land in this territory fit for settlement. The soil is seen to present considerable diversity of character, varying in composi- tion from stiff clay to light sandy loam ; the former occurs mortj commonly near the coast and the latter on or near the Height of Land. The subsoil is found to consist in nearly every section of the territory of the marls, boulder clays, gravels and sands of the boulder or drift formation. That the underlying rock is fossiliferous limestone in the lower or northern part, Huronian and Laurentian in the central part, and Laurentian only on the Height of Land, excepting near our eastern boundary where rocks of Huronian age are found in situ on the Height of Land itself. That the peat-mosses repose on a gently sloping subsoil of clay at such a height above the rivers as to admit of very easy drainage, and that in consequence of this and other exceptionally favourable conditions, it is highly probable very large areas of these muskegs or peat-mosses may be reclaimed at a very moderate expense and converted into fine pasture, if not into good arable land. That while there is quite sufficient arable land to grow bi-ead-stuffs for the consumption of a considerable population, it is doubtful whether or not this will be a grain exporting territory. This will depend in a great measure on the success which may attend the attempts to reclaim the land now buried under a greater or less depth of peat. The writer believes that these attempts will be successful, and that in respect of these areas (and they are of vast extent), where the covering of peat is not more than five or six feet in thickness, the reclamation of such land is not only practicable, but that the resulting soil, composed as it would be of an admixture of peat-ashes and peat, with the underlying marl, could hardly fail to be a fine wheat-growing soil. Nor are other hopeful conditions wanting, for (in addition to the fact that the climate of this great basin of Hudson's Bay has in all probability been slowly improving ever since the culminating point of the Glacial Epoch, anci will in all likelihood continue to do so for many centuries to come) we know that the drainage of great tracts of country exercises a remarkably favourable influence on the climate, both as regards temperature and otherwise. Thus it is to say the least quite possible, that an intelligent, industrious, and energetic people, aided by all the resources that science, machinery, and wealth can furnish, and protected by wise and just laws, in the possession and enjoyment of the fruits of their labour, such a people as we trust our descendants will be, may yet reclaim and convert this almost unknown and despised ter- ritory into one of the finest wheat-growing regions on this continent. In the meantime, however, it appears to me that a mixed .system of husbandry will be the most suitable to the earlier condition of the country, and that stock-raising and dairy-farming will probably be the most profitable branches. As the breeding of cattle in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, to be after- wards sold and fattened in the south for the English market has long been found profit- able both to the breeders in the north and to the feeders in the south ; so likewise may we anticipate that the breeding of cattle in this territory, to be afterwards fattened in southern Ontario, will be extensively followed, with great advantage to the people of both sections of our province. My explorations also enable me to say with confidence that the mineral resources of this territory promise to become of ry great value and importance. Iron, lea J and copper ores, china-clay, gypsum, and . yellow and brown ochres have been already found, and this for the most part in great abundance. Lignita or brown coal has been discovered in seven or eight different places, and beds of this coarse but useful fuel are believed to underlie large tracts of country. The peat-beds are sd extensive as to be practically inexhaustible, and these together with the lignite will in all probability prove sooner or later of inestimable value as fuel, 43 ito as severe ntly high to jrtanfc grain hich are as the surface peat-mosses, t. in composi- ear the coast ist in nearly lands of the stone in the Laurentian re rocks of Lch a height of this and •eas of these inverted into Lcient arable t is doubtful 3 attempts to iter believes i they are of hickness, the composed as marl, could wanting, for ay has in all acial Epoch, e know that influence on le least quite he resources just laws, in we trust our despised ter- sbandry will :-raising and to be after- found profit- so likewise irds fattened the people of rendering the people of Ontario to a considerable extent independent of foreign sources for their supply of this indispensable necessary of life. In the course of my explorations particular attention has been paid to the " timber resources " of this territory, and observations on this important subject will be found to occupy a prominent place in my reports. The general conclusions arrived at are : — That east of the 84th meridian of longitude the climate not only admits, but is favourable to the growth of red and white pine of large size and good quality in this territory as fur north as the 49th parallb! of latitude. That situated between the Height of Land and the 49th parallel, and between the 84th meridian and our eastern boundary, or say between the Missinaibi and Abittibi Rivers is a region embracing some six or seven million acres of this territory within which much of the soil is also more or less perfectly adapted to the growth of pine. That, although bush-fires have within the last fifty years swept over the greater part of this region, the charred remains in many instances afford ample testimony to the fact that the former forests were composed largely of pine ; and that the ridges and islands which have escaped these modern fires still bear considerable numbers of fine red and white pine. That irrespective altogether of the value of the pine now on the ground, the pro- spective value of the timber which seven million acres of good forest land may be capable of producing by the unaided efforts of Nature alone, should be fairly taken into account, for if not to ourselves such a forest, more than royal in its dimensions, will surely prove a valuable legacy to posterity. It will have been seen by those who have perused the narrative of my journey ings and explorations, that spruce, tamarac, canoe-birch, and aspen-poplar are found all over the territory. The spruce and tamarac frequently attain a good size and may come to be valuable for export. The aspen is rapidly assuming importance as affording material (pulp) well suited for the manufacture of some kinds of paper. It may well be that before long the aggregate value of these inferior kinds of timber of which there are such vast quantities, may greatly exceed that of the rad and white pine, the growth of which is confined, as will have been seen, to narrower limits. The willow is found in every part of this territory growing luxuriantly. Whether the variety so useful for basket making could be successfully cultivated remains to be seen, but in my opinion it would succeed admirably on the river bottoms. In conclusion, I have again to acknowledge tlie many obligations I am under for assistance rendered, and numerous acts of kindness shown by James L. Cotter, Esq., W. K. Broughton, Esq., and Dr. Haydon, at Moose Factory ; Mr. Ray at Matawaga- niingue, and Mr. Thomas Moore at Flying Post; also by M. Matheson, Esq., in charge of the Hon. Hudson Bay Company's Post at Lacloche, as well as by Mr. Ross of White- fish Lake, and Mr. Dyke of Mississagua. But for the friendly disposition of the Hon. Hudson Bay Company and its officers, and the assistance they have afforded me, I could not have made the explorations which form the subject of this and previous reports. Respectfully submitted. E. B. BORRON, Stipendiary Magistrate. iral resources Iron, leaJ been already !oal has been seful fuel are hese together rvalue as fuel,