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32X

REPORT

E. B. BORRON, STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE,

ON PART OF THE

BASIN" OF HUDSON'S BAY

BELONGING TO THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.

^xinitA fty #vd(jr of tfte f cflislatlve ^sis^mlrly.

iorottt0 :

PRINTED BY C. BLACKETT ROBINSON, 5 JORDAN STREET.

1883.

»—— V---— ">

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;

/1/r^M Ci^'

REPORT

E. B. BORRON, STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE,

ON PART OF THE

BASIN OF HUDSON'S BAY

BELONGING TO THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.

pUrittUd bi) ^nUr of the f f gislativ^ ^ssn^mljli!.

Soroitto :

PRINTED BY C. BLACKETT ROBINSON, 5 JORDAN STREET.

1883.

I •

CONTENTS.

Introductory j.^^^

Topography 3

Climate 7

Agricultural flesources ^^

Timber 13

Mineral Resources ^^

Other Resources ^^

Development and Settlement ^^

Social Condition ^^

Administration of Justice ^^

Conclusion *1

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ONTARIO.

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To accompany Reports of the Stipendiary
Magistrates with respect- to ttie Northerly

& Westerly parts oF the Province oF Ontario.

The portion coloured PINK is that part of Ontafio in respect of which there is no dispute
The portions coloured YELLOW & BLUE show that part of Ontario now claimed by Manitoba
under Dominion Legislation.

Theporhon coloured BLUE marks Jerri to ly now claimed by Manitoba which CANADA,
before Confederation always treated as part of Upper Canada.

Routes Followed by M!^ Borron.

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Toronto, 6th December, 1882.
Thb Honourable O. Mowat

Attorney-General :
S1R.-I beg respectfully to submit herewith my report for the present year in

In this report I have also incidentally given some information in reference to the
topography and resources of an extensive and almost unknown region south £ the Hei^h
of Land which may, I hope, be of more or less interest and value ^

I have the honour to be. Sir,

Your most obedient servant,

E. B. BORRON,

Stipentl^ary Magistrate.

REPORT

E. B. BORRON, ESQ., STIPENDIARY MAGISTRATE,

ON TUAT PART OF THE

BASIN OF HUDSON'S BAY

BELONGING TO THE PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.

Having obtained permission to prosecute further explorations in the so-called disputed
territory north of the Height of Land, I took passage on the steamer " Manitouliii "^
from CoUingwood to Blind River, on the 17th of May last.

My intention was to proceed to the mouth of the Mississagua river some four miles
west of Blind River, and after completing my arrangements, to ascend that river to the
Hudson Bay Company's Post at Green Lake, and from thence continue my journey over
the Height of Land to " Flying Post." In the course of my explorations last year, I had
ascertained that there was a practicable, though rarely travelled canoe-route from Flying
Post to Green Lake, and as I was aware that there was a tolerably good canoe-route from
Mississagua Post to Green Lake, I felt confident that there could be no insuperable obstacle
to prevent my going tlirough that way, if I could only obtain competent guides. On
Hiy arrival at Flying Post, I purposed descending the Ahkuckootish or Ground-hog River
to its junction with the Mattagami or south branch of Moose River, and thence down that
river to Moose Factory. From the northern limit of tlie surveys for timber berths, to
the junction of the Ahkuckootish and Mattagami Rivers upwards of two hundred miles,
this route would lead me tlirough a new and almost unexplored country, and I hoped by
adopting it, to obtain information of more or less value and importance to th'i Government.

As is generally known, the steamer took fire in Manito waning Bay, and was burnt
to the water's edge. In common with all those of my fellow passengers who were fortun-
ate enough to escape, I lost everything I had on board. As this included the whole of
my outfit, instruments, maps, and supplies, with the exception of flour, pork, and a few
other stores which had been sent on by another boat, it is needless to say that such an
uuforseen misfortune not only put me to much inconvenience but was the occasion of a
good deal of delay, as well as expense.

Much difficulty was experienced in replacing many indespensable articles that had
been lost, as well as in obtaining suitable guides and voyageurs. I had expected to pro-
cure a guide at Green Lake who would be able to pilot us from thence to Flying Post,
but I found that the Hudson Bay Company's Post at Green Lake would be closed and
the Indians all dispersed before I could arrive there.

It was thus the 22nd of June before 1 was in a condition to make another start. It
was some consolation, however, to find (as we afterwards did), that owing to the flooded
condition, and very strong current in some of the stretches of the Mississagua River, it

mmnmm

would have been a very difficult matter iiileed, if not impossible to have ascended the
river in our heavily laden canoe much earlier in the season.

It may hs well to prefacnwhat I have to say of the various resourcoa of the country,
with a short sketch of the route followed not only going to Moose Factory, but re-
turning : This will be very brief as many particulars will be supplied when 1 come to
treat of the " timber resources " of the territory.

On the eighth day we reached Green Lake and on the eleventh of actual voyaging, we
arrived at the Height of Land. During our aicent from Lake Huron we had been
•compelled to make twenty-live portages varying from a few yards to nearly three miles
in length. The rise from Lake Huron to the watershed on the Height of Land
is, I think, between nine hundred and a thousand feet. The river below Green
Lake flows with a very strong current rendering its accent exceedingly slow and labori-
ous. Above Green Lake the route passes for the most part through lakes, small rivers,
and creeks, so small indeed as sometimes barely to permit the passage of a canoe.
Lake Winnibeegon is tne source of the Mississagua River. Our route, however, passed a
few miles to the eastward of that lake.

The Height of Land portage terminates at a lake called Wau-qua-ma-gaming or
Clear-water Lake. It is five or six miles in length, and the source of the Ahkuckootish
or Ground-hog River, one of the largest tributaries of the Moose. This river was
followed for eighty miles and brought us on the fifteenth day to Flying Post. Some
time was spent in explorations and obtaining information in reference to that part of the
country.

The navigation of the Ahkuckootish River below Flying Post was reported to be
both difficult and dangerous. I was fortunate however, in obtaining, through the kind-
ness of Mr. Thomas Moore, the officer in charge, the services of George and Henry
M'Kay, said to be the best "bowsman" and " steersman " on the river.

Leaving Flying Post we passed safely down the river to its junction with the Matta-
gami, which was reached on the twentieth d:iy of actual voyaging. The distance from
Flying Post to the junction is, I think, a little over one hundred miles. Pursuing our
journey dowyi the Mattagami, another day sufficed to take us to the Long Portage. In
three days more, or on the twenty-fourth day, we came to the junction of the Mattagami and
Missinaibi rivers. This last is sometimes called the Brunswick River. Below this point the
united streams are known as the Moose River. The following day we arrived at Moose
Factory, thus completing the trip from Lake Huron to James' Bay in twenty-five days
without reckoning detentions from bad weather or otherwise, or the time spent in explora-
tions. The entire distance by this route following all the bends and turns of th<> rivers is
roughly estimated at about four hundred and fifty miles. In a straight line, or to use a
common expression, " as the crow flies," the distance is only about three hundred and
fifty miles.

Upwards of sixty portages had to be made, the longest of which was three-and-a-half
miles. In addition to these a number of demicharges were necessary, or in other words
part of the baggage and supplies had to be unloaded and carried over certain portages,
while the canoe thus lightened was taken with the remainder up or down the rapids.
The total rise from Lake Huron to the summit of the Height of Land is not less, I think,
than nine hundred feet and the fall from thence to James' Baj» or the level of the sea
about fifteen hundred feet.

Having remained at Moose Factory as long as was necessary, and obtained through
the kindness of Mr. Cotter such further supplies as were required, we left on the Ist of
August on our return homeward.

My intention was to re-ascend the Moose and Mattagami Rivers to Matawaga-
mingue Post. The distance from Moose Factory to the junction of the Ahkuckootish and
Mattagami Rivers is about one hundred and two miles, and from thence to Matta-
wagamingue Post about one hundred and sixty miles. I had been informed by Mr.
Moore of Flying Post that there was a practicable canoe route from Matawagamingue to
La-cloche Post, on Lake Huron, that it passed through Whitefish Lake where the
Hudson's Bay Company had a post, and thence down the Whitefish River to Lake Huron,
that there were a great many portages and some small creeks to be passed, but no very

^e ascended the

i of the country,
Factory, but re-
vhen 1 come to

ual voyaging, we
on we had been
3arly three miles
Jeight of Land
'er below Green
slow and labori-
kes, small rivers,
mgp of a canoe,
however, passed a

[ua -ma-gaming or
;he Ahkuckootish
This river was
ring Post. Some
) that part of the

as reported to be
trough the kind-
31'ge and Henry

n with the Matta-

[?he distance from

s. Pursuing our

ong Portage. In

le Mattagami and

'low this point the

arrived at Moose

I twenty-five days

! spent in explora-

nfi of thi' rivers is

line, or to use a

ree hundred and

threo-and-a-half
in other words

certain portages,

own the rapids.

not less, I think,
level of the sea

obtained through
left on the 1st of

•s to Matawaga-
Uikuckootish and
thence to Matta-
nformed by Mr.
tawagamingue to
Lake where the
r to Lake Huron,
sed, but no very

formidable difficulties to be apprehended. H« had once travelled this route, when little
more than a boy some forty years ago, and could only tell me thus much in reference to
it. As it promised to lead me through a new and almost unknown country I deter-
minded to follow this route if possible.

The route from Moose Factory to Matawagamingue having been travelled over and
described by both Dr. Bell and myself, I need only say that sixteen days of hard and
unremitting toil cheerfully borne by my voyageurs, sufficed to take me to Mattawaga-
mingue Post, where I met with a cordial welcome from Mr. Rae, the officer in charge.

Here my Flying Post men, who had well sustained their character as guides, left
me for their homes. Flying Post is, I should say, not more than fifty miles from Mata-
wagamingue in a straight line, and in a north-westerly direction. The canoe-route, how-
ever, is much longer. It will be remembered that I passed over it last year and estimated
it roughly at eighty-five miles, the number of portages required in that short distance be-
ing not less than twenty -two.

It was now necessary to obtain two other voyageurs, one of whom at all events-
should know the route I wished to take, as far as White-fish Lake, if not to La-cloche.
In this we were dissappointed ; notwithstanding the anxiety of Mr. Rae to accommodate
me, he was unable to procure a guide at or near the post. He, however, sent a young
man with us who knew the way nearly to the Height of Land, where we should find
some Indians, one of whom he expected would be willing to accompany us.

Leaving Matawagamingue, the third day brought us to "A-jau-ni-gam-ing," a lake
about seven miles in length, where the Indians we were in quest of have their hunting
grounds. Here we found the shanties, and clearings, on part of which potatoes were
growing nicely. But the only living thing at the place was a fat little heifer about
a year and a half old. Where the Indians had gone we were unable to tell, so that all
we could do was to wait and see if they would return. As there was a quantity of
fresh venison hanging up in one of the wig-wams, we came to the conclusion that we
would not have to wait long. In this prognostication we were quite correct, for on the
afternoon of the following day we were gratified with the sight of five small canoes com-
ing down the lake with the Indians we wanted. The man Mr. Rae expected to go with
us did not feel able to undertake the trip, but fortunately his son knew the way and
agreed to accompany us as far as La-cloche. After waiting another day to allow him to
get ready, we renewed our journey on the 23rd of August. The Height of Land is not
more than two miles from the south end of this lake, and was reached by means of seve-
ral short portages separated by little lakes or ponds.

The elevation of the summit is nearly the same, I think, as that on the Mississagua
route, say about one thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. The distanje
from Mattawagamingue to the Height of Land by this route is, I think, about forty-seven
miles. In a straight line, however, I should guess the distance at not more than forty
miles, and that in a direction nearly south. From Moose Factory to the Height of Land
Portage following the deflections will be about three hundred and ten miles, but not more
than two hundred and seventy-five miles in a straight line.

We now began the descent toward Lake Huron, passing through several small lakes
and creeks, with frequent portages for some five or six miles. We then arrived at th»
upper or northern extremity of a large lake called Monabing, which is not laid down on
any of the maps in my possession. It is from twenty to thirty miles in length, and of
variable width, but probably not less than two or three miles on an average. It lies north
and south and through it our route ran in a southerly direction for some twenty-five
miles. The River Monabing flows from the extreme south-east corner of this fine lake.
Our next stretch was down the Monabing River itself for forty miles, still in a southerly
direction, to a lake, called by my guide Ma-zin-an-wa-ning.

In the first thirty miles sixteen portages were necessary, the longest of which was
about a mile. This valley, trough or gorge, through which the river pours its waters has
been, as I believe, excavated out of the solid rock by ice during the glacial epoch or
period. It is bounded by rocky ridges from one hundred to two hundred and fifty feet in
height on both sides. These terminate about thirty miles below Lake Monabing, and the
river issues into what has probably been a part of the lake below. Through this leve|

country the course of the river is very serpentine and the current raoderato. Two port-
ages only were made, one of which was rendered necessary by drift wood which had tilled
up the channel for some distance.

At the lower end of the gorge (it can hardly be called a valley) just referred to, the
ridge rises on the east side to the height of two hundred or two hundred and fifty feet,
and my guide informed me that in clear weather Lake Huron was visible from the top.
We ascended it and obtained a fine view of the surrounding country, more particularly to
the south and east. My guide pointed out to me the position of Lake Nipissing, White-
fish Lake, Lake Huron, when visible, and of Lake Ma-zin-an-wa-niug. Ho also indicated
the direction of La-cloche, all as I had afterwards reason to believe with surprising ac-
curacy. Looking back to the north, the course of the gorge or glacial trough through
which we had come, could be clearly traced, and its glacial origin more than surmised.
Nor could I help wishing that my friend Mr. Garden, of the Canadian Pacific Railway
Survey, had been there to judge of the feasibility of this as a route for the main trunk
line to connect with the surveys of Messrs, Gamsby, Ritmsay and other civil engineers on
the staff of the Canada Pacific Railway, north of the Height of Land. Messrs. Ross and
Garden had preceded me up the Mississagua River this spring in the hope of finding a
route that way, but had not, as I understood from other parties, been successful.

I may as well mention here what I only discovered afterwards, that the lake below,
through which the Monabing flows, and called Ma-zin-an-wa-ning, is that called Ver-
milion Lake and represented as such, far from accurately, on the departmental
maps. Thus Lake Monabing instead of being as I erroneously supposed the source
of the Whitefish River, is really the source of the East Branch of the far greater and more
important Spanish River. Again on the departmental map of 1880, or "Topographical
Plan of the North Shore of Lake Huron" which professes to show recent surveys, this
east branch is represented as an apparently insignificant stream barely traceable for
many miles above its junction with the west branch in township No. 98, whereas
this east branch, if not the main river itself, must be from its size as far north even as
Monabing, much the largest and most important tributary of the Spanish River, and
should be represented as such. I am persuaded that instrumental surveys of most of our
larger rivers and their tributaries with the lakes at or near their sources, would be of
great value both to the Government and the public, supplying as it would valuable in-
formation in reference to the soil, timber and other resources of the Province, and afford-
ing the practical explorer, whether he be prospecting for minerals, timber, or even for a
homestead, invaluable aid and assistance.

Lake Ma-zin-an-wa-ning, or Vermilion, is I should say about eight or nine miles
long, reckoning to the first rapid at its eastern end. I did not however see the west end
of the lake, from where we entered it and it may be longer. The width nowhere exceeds
a mile. We have now come to rocks of the Huronian formation, and unlike the lakes on
and near the Height of Land in the Laurentian region, the longer axis of this lake runs
nearly east and west. The Monabing enters the lake on the north side and about two or
three miles as I think from its western extremity. It or " the Vermillion," (but " Mona-
bing" is a much better name) leaves again at the eastern extremity. Our route was down
this river for some ten miles. The average bearing or course roughly taken is I think
about south-east. In this stretch seven short portages were necessary. The fall from
Vermilion Lake to the foot of the seventh portage or rapid, which is called " the' Matta-
gami," also roughly estimated, is about ninety feet. Here the branch of the Canadian Pacific
Railway from Callendar on Lake Nipissing crosses the river. Here too we saw the river
for the last time. Our guide took an easterly course up a narro.w lake for about three
njiles to a point on the south side where there was a portage. The lake extended some
miles still further to the eastward. This portage was about a quarter of a mile long and
terminated at a small clecr water lake, apparently half a mile in width and tliree quarters
of a mile to a mile in length. Crossing thil in a south-easterly direction we camo to an-
other portage, a little longer than the last, which brought us to the Honourable Hudson
Bay Company's Post, on Whitefish Lake. Here I ascertained from Mr. Ross, the officer in
charge, that the lake which my guide called Ma-zin-an-wa-ning was Vermilion Lake, and
that its waters flowed into the Spanish and not into Whitefish River, as I had supposed.

ito. Two port-
vhich had tilled

referred to, the
I and fifty feet,
e from the top.
I particularly to
pissing, White-
e also indicated
h surprising ac-
trough through
than surmised.
Pacific Railway
the main trunk
vil engineers on
[essrs, Ross and
)pe of finding a
cessful.

the lake below,
;hat called Ver-
le departmental
3scd the source
;reater and more
" Topographical
snt surveys, this
ily traceable for
■lo. 98, whereas
ir north even as
iiish River, and
s of most of our
es, would be of
)uld valuable in-
ince, and afFord-
or even for a

ht
ee

I also discovered that where this route via Whitefish Lake, strikes off eastward below the
last or Mattagami Rapid, the River Vermilion (or Monabing) turns abruptly to the south
and south-west, becoming ultimately what is known as the East Branch of the Spanish
River.

There is an Indian village on Whitefish Lake some two miles from the Post, and the
route from thence via Whitefish River to Lake Huron, is too frequently travelled and
the country too well known, to require any particular notice or description. The length
of this stretch is, I should say, about forty-five miles, in the course of which some nine or
ten portages are necessary. The total distance from the Height of Land to the mouth of
Whitefish River, I estimate at about one hundred and thirty-six miles, and from JameK'
Bay to Lake Huron four hundred and forty-six miles. In a direct line, however, the
distance from the mouth of Whitefish River to where this route crosses the Height ot
Land will not probably exceed one hundred miles, and to Moose Factory three hundred and
seventy-five miles. The number of days of actual voyaging was twenty -seven, as against
twenty-five days by the Mississagua route. Eighteen miles more in a westerly direc-
tion along the shores of the Georgian Bay took us to the Honourable Hudson Bay Com-
pany's post at La-cloche. We thus left Moose Factory on the first of August and reached
La-cloche on the first of September. I had expected that the difficulties besetting this
route would have been much greater, and that a considerably longer time juld have been
required for the trip, but was fortunate in having good men, a favourable season as
regarded the height of the water in the rivers and creeks, and if not fewer at least shorter
portages than I anticipated.

At La-cloche my guide Lou. . and voyageur James, from the other side the Height of
Land, were paid off, and supplied with a canoe and provisions for their return home.
Thereafter I proceeded to Mississagua (my starting point) and paid off the two men,
Robert Nolin, of Sault Ste. Marie, and Robert Nakanee, of Mississagua, who had accom-
panied me throughout, and had proved themselves good and reliable voyageurs. I also
settled with Mr. Edward Sayer, fur-trader there, but for- whose influence with the In-
dians and willing aid and assistance, I should not have been able to obtain guide.s
to take me over the Height of Land to Flying Post.

This introductory narrative with the accompanying map, will show with sufficient
precision I hope, the route which I have followed.

I shall now under appropriate heads, give such information in respect to the terri-
tory in question as I may have been able to obtain from personal observation or other-
wise.

Topography.

The leading physical features of the territory claimed by Ontario have been already
so fully described in former reports, that little remains to be said on that subject.

Since my last report however, the Report of Progress of the Geological Survey for
1879-80 has come to hand. In it there is an admirable description of Hudson's Bay,
and the regions lying adjacent thereto, by Dr. Bell, Assistant Director of the Survey, than
whom, no one is better iaformed on the subject, having explored in an open boat no in-
considerable portion of the bay, as well as crossed it from York Factory to Hudson's
Straits, in the Honourable Hudson Bay Company's ship. I have therefore much pleasure
in quoting from the report in question, p. 27, 0, et seq., where under the head "General
Account of Hudson's Bay," Dr. Bell says : *' In the popular mind Hudson's Bay is apt
to be associated with the Polar regions ; yet no part of it comes within the Arctic Circle,
and the latitude of the southern extremity is south of London. Few people have any
adequate conception of the extent of this great Canadian sea. Including its southern
prolongation, James' Bay, it measures fibout one thousand miles in length, and is more
than six hundred miles in width, in the northern part. Its total area is in the neighbour-
hood of five hundred thousand square miles, or upwards of half that of the Mediter-
ranean. It is enclosed by the land on all sides, except the north-east, where it com-
municates by diffiirent channels with the outer ocean. The principal or best known of
these is Hudson's Strait, which is about five hundred miles in length, and has au

or nine miles
the west end
owhere exceeds
ike the lakes on
f this lake runs
nd about two or
(but " Mona-
route was down
;aken is I think
The fall from
ed " the* Matta-

'anadian Pacific
*ve saw the river

for about three
3 extended some
a mile long and
d tliree quarters

we came to an-
ourable Hudson
0S3, the officer in

ilion Lake, and

I had supposed. 1 average width of about one hundred miles.

•' Hudson's Bay, which might have been more appropriately called Hudson's Sea, i»
the central basin of the drainage of North America. The limits of this basin extend to
the centre of the'Labarador peninsula, or some five hundred miles inland, on the east
side, and to the Rocky Mountains, or a distance of one thousand three hundred miles, on
the west. The Winnipeg basin constitutes a sort of out-lior of the region more immedi-
ately under notice, since the waters drain into it from the north, south, east and west,
and discharge themselves by one great trunk, the Nelson River, into Hudson's Bay.
The southern-most part of this basin, namely, the source of the Red River, extends down
nearly to latitude 45°. The head waters of the southern rivers of James Bay are not
far to the north of Lake Huron, while one of the branches of the Albany rises within
twenty-five miles of the north shore of Lake Superior. Including the Winnipeg system,
the basin of Hudson's Bay has a width of about two thousand one hundred miles from
east to west, and a length of about one thousand five hundred miles from north to south,
and its dimensions approach the enormous area of three million square miles. Over a
great part of this region there is a temperate climate, and although the soil of much
of it is comparatively barren, yet large tracts are very fertile. The numerous rivers and
lakes of the first class, embraced ^vithin these limits, will prove of great value in the
settlement of the country. Both the bay and strait are remarkably free from rocks
and shoals, which might interfere with their free navigation. The groups of islands near
the east side of the bay are surrounded by deep water, and a wide channel leads up the
centre of James' Bay. Fortunately the main body of the great bay, which is the portion
which may hereafter be frequented by shipping, is entirely without shoals, reefs or
islands. The depth is very uniform over most of the bay, and nowhere does it present any
great irregularities. It averages about seventy fathoms throughout, deepening to one
hundred and upwards in approaching the outlet of Hudson's Straits, while in the strait
itself the soundings along the centre vary from about one hundred to upwards of three
hundred fathoms. The bottom appears to consist almost everywhere of boulder clay and
mud. Near the shores a stiff clay, affording good holding ground for anchors, is almost
invariably met with on both sides.

" James' Bay begins at Cape Jones, on the east side, and Cape Henrietta Maria on
the west, and runs south about three hundred and fifty miles, with an average breadth of
one hundred and fifty miles. The east side of Hudson's Bay, including its southern pro-
longation is known as the Eastmain coast. Between Cape Jones and Cape Dufferin, on
the Portland promontory, and again in approaching Cape Wolstenholme, at the termina-
tion of this coast, the land is high and bold, some points attaining an elevation of nearly
two thousand feet above the sea. The country on the south-west side of the main bay,
as well as that lying to the west of James Bay, is low and generally level, with shallow
water extending a long distance out from shore. Both sides of Hudsi . Strait are high
and rocky, but the northern is less precipitous than the southern.

" Of the numerous rivers which run into Hudson's Bay from all sides, about thirty
are of considerable magnitude. All those which enter upon the Eastmain coast appear
to flow in a uniform course directly west, or parallel to one another, and as the height of
land in the centre of the Labrador peninsula is furthest inland towards the south, the
rivers which fall into the southern part of this coast are the largest, and the remainder
become progressively smaller as we go north. Numerous streams converge to the head
of James' Bay from all points southward of an east and west line passing through its
southern extremity. The Moose, about a mile wide, is the principal of these. On the
western side, the Albany and the Churchill Rivers are the longest, but the Nelson, with a
course of only about four hundred miles, discharges the greatest body of water into the
sea. Indeed this huge artery of the Winnipeg system of waters may be considered as
one of the greatest rivers of the world. Few of the rivers of Hudson's Bay afford unin-
terrupted navigation for large vessels to any great distance from the coast. During the
season of high water shallow draft steamers might ascend the Moose and two of its
branches for upwards of one hundred miles. Hayes River and two of its branches might
also apparently be navjjgated by such craft in the spring, to points about one hundred and
forty miles inland, and the Albany for nearly two hundred and fifty miles ; while larger
steamers might ascend the Nelson for seventy or eighty miles from the open sea. Tha

mMp<

dson's Sea, i»
jin extend to
I, on the east
Ired miles, on
more immedi-
ast and west,
ludson'a Bay.
extends down
3 Bay are not
' rises within
nipeg system,
ed miles from
orth to south,
ailes. Over a
3 soil of much
ous rivers and
t value in the
!e from rocks
}f islands near
1 leads up the

is the portion
loals, reefs or

it present any
spening to one
e in the strait
wards of three
ulder clay and
hors, is almost

ietta Maria on
age breadth of
3 southern pro-
)e Dufferin, on

the termina-
ition of nearly
the main bay,

with shallow
Strait are high

s, about thirty
n coast appear
g the height of
the south, the

the remainder
ge to the head
ng through its
hese. On the
Nelson, with a
water into the

considered as
ay afford unin-
During the
md two of its
jranches might
le hundred and

; while larger
jpen sea. Th»

Nelson is the only muddy water river entering Hudson's Bay. Most of the others have
a slightly brpwnish tinge, but their waters are perfectly wholesome, and contain only very
small quantities of foreign matter. The Churchill which is the second largest river of
Hudson's Bay, is a beautiful clear water stream, somewhat larger than the Rhine. It is
remarkable for having at its mouth a splendid harbour, with deep water and every
natural advantage for the purpose of modern conmierce.

" The only harbours on the west side of Hudson's Bay are those formed by the mouths
of rivers, but none of them, with the exception of Churchill Harbour, can be entered by
vessels drawing more than ten or eleven feet, and only at high water, even by these. The
Nelson may form an exception to this. Most of its estuary becomes dry at low tide, but
a channel runs ♦hrough it near the centre, as far as the head of tide-water. I sounded
this channel in a number of places in 1878-79 and '80, and although an average depth of
about two fathoms at low water was found, continuous soundings throughout might have
shown interruptions or shallower water in some places. As stated in previous reports,
there is a section at the head of tide, or between the tidal portion and the regular inland
channel of the river, in which not more than ten feet of water were found. This may e.x-
tend for about two miles, above which an apparent continuous channel, with a depth of
about twenty feet, according to our sounding.*, extends to the lowest limestone rapid,
which is me first break in the navigable part, and is between forty and fifty miles from
the head of tide, or from seventy or eighty miles from the open sea. If the section re-
ferred to were deepened, steamers coming in from sea might enter this part of the river
and find perfect shelter, or even proceed up the stream to any point below the rapid re-
ferred to. In continuation of the channel running down the estuary, a Mead' of deeper
water extends out into the bay, and forms the ' North River,' or ' Y'ork Roads,' with ex-
cellent anchorage. The Churchill, unlike all the other rivers, has a deep, rocky and com-
paratively narrow mouth, which can be entered with ease and safety by i,he largest ships
at all stages of the tide. On the point at the west side of the entrance of the harbour
stands the old * Fort Prince of Wales,' which is probably the largest ruin in North
America. Although occupying a commanding position, and mounting about forty large
guns, it was surrendered without firing a shot, to the French Admiral La Perouse, who
destroyed it in 1772. The ruins of this large fort are shown in the accompanying wood-
cuts, takfti from photographs. Along the west coast the rise and fall at spring tides
amount to about eleven or twelve feet, on an average, and is pretty uniform, diminishing
somewhat towards the south. It is greatest at the mouth of the Nelson River, where it
amounts to about fifteen feet. The tides are lower all along the east side of the bay. In
Hudson's Strait there is a very good tide, according to the report we have received of
Acting Staff Commander J . G. Boulton's reconnaissance during the past summer. Geo-
logically, the basin of Hudson's Bay, excluding the western or Winnipeg division, lies
within the great Laurentian area of the Dominion. Cambro-silurian rocks, resting almost
horizontially upon these, form an irregular border along the south-western side of the
bay ; and in the valleys of some of the rivers they extend inland from one to two hun-
dred miles. To the south and west of James' Bay Cambro-silurian are overlaid by De-
vonian rocks, which here occupy a considerable area. The long chains of islands which
fringe the east coast for nearly three hundred miles to the northward of Cape Jones, and
also the main land in the vicinity of Richmond Gulf, are composed of bedded volcanic and
almost unaltered sedimentary rocks, resembling the Nipigon series of the Lake Superior
region, which may be of Lower Cambrian age. On the western side of the bay, from
Churchill northward, quartzites and other rocks, which may also belong to the Cambrian
system, appear to be largely developed. Valuable minerals may be looked for on this
coast. The extensive level region around the south-western side of the bay, is overspread
with a great sheet of boulder clay, which is generally covered by the modified drift.
The rocks of the outlying or Winnipeg division of the basin comprise an extensive series,
ranging from the Laurentian to the Tertiary."

That portion of the coast of James' Bay which forms the frontage of the territory
claimed by us, is low and shallow. From the eastern boundary to the western, with a
frontage of more than one hundred and fifty miles, there are no harbours for vessels
drawing more than ten feet of water. Vessels, however, drawing ten feet or under, can

i I

enter and ascond both Moose and Albany Rivors, as far aa the Factories when the tide ia
at its lioiglit.

All the sailing craft employed at Moose Factory and I think, also those at Albany,
even to schooners of ninety or one hundred tons burden must, at the approach of winter,
bo hauled up out of the water on to the banks HOino twenty feet at least above the river,
to escape damage if not positive destruction when the ice breaks up in the spring.

The only deep and safe harbour that I know of, is at the north-eastern extremity of
Charlton island, some sixty or seventy miles from Moose Factory, and nearly north of
where our (iastern boundary is supposed to be. This was described in my second report.

From James' Bay the land rises slowly towards the south at the rate of al)out three
feet in ainile, as we ascond Moose River and its branches, until wo appngach what are
known as " the long portages," distant from eighty to a hundred and twenty miles from
Moose Factory, where the inclination increases considerably. This belt is a vast plain,
the far grc^ater portion of which is covered with what the natives call muskego or muskegs,
but known to us as peat-bogs or mosses.

Underlying the peat, clay is almost invariably found wherever the bottom can be
reached. This clay, as seen on the points of the poles thrust down into it, is a bluish gray
colour. As seen in the banks of the ravines and rivers it is a light gray, sometimes a
drab colour. The latter is more common in the second belt or zone above the long port-
ages, and with stones of older rocks generally contains fragments of fossiliferous limestone
from the Devonian beds to the north. The other clay also frequently contains boulders
and stones of Laurentian, Huronian and Trap rocks. Both are calcareous, and therefore
what may be called marls.

Below these in the lower belt or zone of this territory a tough blue or slate coloured
clay is met with. It often contains marine shells, but very few stones or boulders. Lime
enters so largely into its composition, that if only suthciently indurated, it might be fairly
classed as a limestone. Sand in the form of mounds and ridges is occasionally met with,
but more generally it appears in a layer or stratum of no great thickness in the banks
of the rivers, resting on the clays. The underlying rock in the lower belt is rarely seen,
but where exposed is generally found to be Devonian limestone. No hills whatever occur
in this lower belt, and the timber is confined to narrow strips along the water courses, and
to islands in the larger rivers.

Referring to the country lying between the Abittibi River on the east, and the
Missinaibi River on the west, although there is a sudden rise of from three to four hun-
dred and fifty feet in twenty miles at the long portages, and although too, there is a
great deal of rock exposed in the bottom and banks of the rivers, still very little rock is
met with elsewhere, being for the most part deeply covered by the clays of the boulder
or drift formation.

The country however, continues to be too dead or flat, and notwithstanding a per-
ceptible tendency to assume the form of low ridges here and there, as we advance, the
natural drainage is insuflicient, and peat mosses still overspread large tracts of what
would otherwise be good land. No decided change in the character of the surface takes
place until we approach the "tQth pai-allel. North of this the surface is not only flat, but
there are few if any lakes. South however of this parallel, the country becomes gradually
broken and uneven, rising into ridges from one to two hundred feet in height, and in the
intervals between these we have frequent lakes, sometimes swamps, at others marshes,
and not unfrequently areas of good arable land. Rock is often met with but generally
confined to the banks of the rivers and the shores of the lakes.

As we advance towards the south, not only docs the country become more broken,
until at least one-third of the surface is covered with lakes, but there is a change also in
the composition and character of the loose material overlying the rock. The clays or
rather clay marls already referred to, give place to sand and gravel. There is a very
marked increase too, in the number of boulders, and while there are always some of these
erratic stones whose peculiar appearance or mineral composition, enables us to recognise
them as natives of the far distant Eastmain coast, by far the greater number, although
brought also from the north, have not come nearly so far. Many of them indeed have
been manufactured, so to speak, almost on the spot, out of material of the ridges of

n the tide in

at Albany,
;h of winter,
vii the river,
:ing.

Bxtromity of
fly north of
CO nil report,
about three
Lch what are
r niiiea from
i vast plain,

or muskegs,

)ttom can be
II bluish gray
sometimes a
he long port-
ous limestone
ains boulders
and therefore

jlate coloured
ilders. Lime
light be fairly
illy met with,
in the banks
3 rarely seen,
hatever occur
r courses, and

east, and the
to four hun-

)o, there ia a

ittle rock is

the boulder

anding a per-
advance, the
acts of what
surface takes
only flat, but
mes gradually
it, and in the
hers marshes,
but generally

more broken,
change also in
The clays or
lere is a very

some of these
s to recognise
iber, although
indeed have

the ridges of

Laurentian or Iluronian rock (whichever it may be) lying immediately and at no grout
distance to the north of where they now rest.

The character of the loose material on the surface, the rounded and "hog-backed '
shape of the hills nml ridges, the deep channels and gorges extending for miles in a
northerly and soutlierly direction, (juarried by no visiltle hand or agency out of the
hardest of rock, the polished surface in some places, and the numerous parallel and deep
scratches in otiiers, afForJ strong if not absolutely convincing proof to my mind of tru-
menJous erosion. The same evidence confronts us everywhere, not only north of the
Height of Land, but over it, and down the southern slope to our great lakes, the very
existence of wliich ia in my humble opinion largely if not entirely due to the same mys-
terious power.

Tiie only agent known to me, that would seem at all adequate to account for the phe-
nomenon in question, is ice. Not ico in the form of icebergs, and impelled only by tlie
feeble force of the winds or even ocean currents, but a solid sheet of ice moving as water
does, and as glaciers are known to be capable of doing. This sheet of ice, too, must
have been several thousand feet in thickness. Mr. George Uawson, F.(J.S., in his able
and interesting Report on the Geological Resources of the Region in the vicinity of the
49th Parallel, tells us " that Laurentian and Quartzite erratics were found in abundance
to the height of over four thousand feet," on tiie Three Buttes or Sweet-grass hills at the
foot of the Rocky Mountains. As the Height of Land north of Lakes Huron and
Superior will not I believe average more than tiiirteen or fourteen hundred feet above the
level of the sea, it is evident that such a sheet of ice if continuous or equally thick, must
have covered the Height of Land not less probably than two thousand feet. The great
difficulty is to find the power or force which has been sufHcient to set and keep in motion
(however slow) this prodigious body of ice. That the erosive agent has moved from the
north towards the south the rocks themselves afford silent but convincing testimony. That
tlie propelling power has been so mighty as to have been almost irresistible is equally
certain. The hypothesis which appears to me most fully to meet all the requirements of
the phenomena in question is, that during the long ages of intense cold, known as the
glacial epoch, what has been called a " Polar Ice-cap" formed at the North Pole which con-
stantly increasing in thickness, ultimately attained such a vast height that by the sheer
force of gravity alone the ice at length began to spread and move in a southerly direc-
tion, or from the Pole towards the Equator, overpowering every resistance that the in-
equalities of the surface even when composed of solid rock could oppose. But whatever
the agency may have been, that an inconceivably great quantity of rock has been moved
so to speak from Natures quarries in the north, crushed and ground by her mills into
gravels, sands and clays, transported hundreds of miles to the south, and then spread out
forming immense stores of the raw material for soil in regions more favourable probably
to animal and vegetable life than that from which the rock was taken. These are facts
which no thouglitful observer who has visited the territory in which these vast operations
have been carried on, can question, however uncertain he may be as to instrumentalities
by which the work has been accomplished. Further speculation on this subject would be
out of place here, but those who may desire it will find much interesting information in
two articles by Dr. L. P. Gratacap, entitled " The Ice Age" in the " Popular Science
Monthly" for January 1878 and November 1878.

From the 49th Parellel southward to the Height of Land the country although more
broken, is better drained, and much more generally timbered than the Hat plains to the
north. The timber too is more valuable, as red and white pine are now found growing,
more particularly on the higher and drier ridges. A great number of the lakes afford
striking illustrations of what has taken place in respect of some already, and of a change
which all without exception are undergoing, namely drainage, or filling up and conversion
into dry land. This conversion is taking place most rapidly in respect of those lakes
through which the larger rivers flow and is brought about in two ways. In the first place
these rivers bring down vast quantities of sediment which settling in these lake basins,
gradually fills them up. And in the second place the rivers are in many instances clearly
seen to be cutting through and destroying the natural bank, reef or other barrier at the
outlet or lower end of these lakes, thus permanently lowering, if not draining off the water

altogether. The BtepH in this procesB are, the converftion of the lake into a marsh, of
the nmrsh into a Hwanip, of the r.wamp into dry land. It in a proceBH, which when com-
plete, simple an it may apper, has elsewhere produced no inconsiderable proportion of th©
tinest land in the world, and is doing a like good work here for posterity.

Climate.

V 1

The climate of this territory in respect of temperature is one of extremes. The win-
ters are cold -the temperature fallinsj; sometimes as low as forty degrees hclow zero of
Fahrenheit's thermometer, and occasionally rising to ninety degrees in the summer even
down on the roast. Lust year it was on one occasion ninoty-four degrees in the shade .xt
Albany Factory and ninety-two degrees at Moose Factory. The mean temperature of the
summer at Moose Factory is about sixty degrees, varying two or three degrees above or
below that average in different years.

We have unfortunately no record of the temperature at any of the inland posts with
the exception of Martin's Falls on the Albany River, and this Post, although more than
two hundnid miles up the river, is still north of Moo.se Factory. The Meteorological Ser-
vice, the head office of which is in the City of Toronto, has collected and is still obtain-
ing most valuable and interesting information relating to the climate of almost every
part of the Dominion. There are two stations in connection with this service on James*
Bay — one of which is at Moose Factory and the other Albany. Observations have been
made for a short time at Martin's Falls, but are now I believe discontinued. These sta-
tions are, however, in the extreme northern part of the territory wo claim, and in which
we are naturally most deeply interested. There are no stations in the central or southern
divisions, and consequently we have no reliable scientific data to guide us. The means
at the disposal of the service are doubtless too limited to allow of its Director establishing
and maintaining stations everywhere at once, but I think it is very desirable to have
some reliable information in reference to the climate of the central and upper or southern
parts of the basin of the Moose River— embracing as it does some thirty or forty thousand
square miles of territory.

Dr. Bell is of opinion that the climate improves as we proceed northwards from the
Height of Land to Moose Factory, the lower elevation of the coast, and other favourable
influences, more than compensating as he believes for the difference of latitude. The sea-
son, however, that Dr. Bell made his dangerous but remarkably successful exploration of
the East- Main coast, was I think an unusually fine one, and hence it is possible that Dr.
Bell formed a somewhat too high opinion of the climate on the coast, although it is un-
doubtedly far suporior to what popular belief has generally supposed it to be. I myself
consider that in many very important respects, the climate of the central and southern
divisions of the territory is better than that on or near the coast.

The only place in the territory where any reliable observations have been made in
regard to the quantity of rain, is at Moose Factory, on the coast. The rain-fall iAcre
forms no criterion on which to form a safe judgment as to what it may be in the whole
territory, more particularly in the southern high-lands. From my own observations and
enquiries, I feel safe in saying that, without being too wet, there is amply sufficient rain
and dew to support the most luxuriant vegetation. At Moose Factory the rain-fall in
1878 amounted to twenty inches, and of snow to fifty-nine inches, making the total precipi-
tation of melted snow and rain 26.86 inches, for that year. The number of days on which
rain fell was eighty-four. These were distributed as follows : January 1 day, February 0,
March 1, April 6, May 11, June 9, July 12, August 7, September 19, October 14, Nov-
ember 3, and December 1 day. At Moose Factory, while there is quite enough of rain
during the summer months, the rainfall is I think somewhat excessive in the
months of August and September. Possibly this may be confined to the coast. The
quantity of snow is much less than that which falls in the Province of Quebec, being not
as much as half that at the city of Quebec itself. Nor is the snow-fall at Moose Factory
nearly as heavy as at Gravenhurst, Parry Sound, and other places on the north shore of
Lake Huron. The healthiness of the climate is unquestionable.

SBTOid&i»-*» «>!'«V3fV.

a marBh, ot

when coin-

•tion of the

The win-
low ZITO of
miner oven
t,ho shade .it
•ature of tlie ^
:)8 above or

cl posts with
li more than
■olo}:jical Sur-

still obtain-
ilnioBt every
CO on James*
18 have been
These sta-
md in wliich
l1 or southern
The means

establishing
[•able to have
r or southern
>rty thousand

rtls from the
Br favourable
The sea-
xploration of
nble that Dr.
,gh it is un-
I myself
,nd southern

[»on made in
rain-fall i/icre
n the whole
rvations and
siifficientrain
e rain-fall in
total precipi-
lys on which
, February 0,
)ber 14, Nov-
gh of rain
ssive in the
e coast. The
jec, being not
loose Factory
orth shore of

AoRICULTrRAL RbSOUUCES.

It is only at the fur trading posts of the Honourable Hudson's Hay ('ouipany that
■any attempt has been made to cultivate the soil. A few of the Indians un the Matta-
gaiui River, who trade at Mutawagamingue Post, are now trying to grow potatoes, and I
trust that they i..ay ho fur succeed as to induce others to follow their example.

The oflicers of tlie company know very little about farming as a general rule. Their
lives from tlie time they were little more than boys, have been spent in the country and
devoted to the fur trade. The conseiiuence is that the farming at the inland poses is of
a rather primitive and unscientitic description, and confined cliielly to the growth of the
potato as a Held crop. At the larger posts on the coast, particularly Moose Factory
where a number of old countrymen aio employed, they understand how to grow the po-
tato, and cultivate it well and successfully. But even at Moose very little attention is
paid to drainage, and none whatever to the importance of a judicious course, or rotation
of crops. The wonder to me is that the land so treated continues to yitild any crop at all.

Where the agricultural operations have been so very limited, all that can be said on
the Bubjeot of the crops that have been grown in the territory has been given in
former reports. Having now, however, visited every post but two in the territory, and
traversed it in various directions, it may bts expected that I should give the general con-
clusions at which 1 have arrived on a subject of so much consequence. This I shall do,
even if it be necessary to support n)y opinions by an appeal to some facts which have
been already recorded in former reports. Connnencing with the cereals, we will take
that first which is usually regarded as of the greatest importance and value : —

Wheal. — I am strongly of the opinion that wheat may be successfully grown where
the soil is suitable in all that part of this territory lying to the south of the fiftieth pa-
rallel of latitude. This opinion is founded on the be''')f that there is no other part of the
world south of that latitude where this grain has not or can not be grown; that the mean
temperature of the summer in the territory south of that parallel is amply sufhcient to
ripen or bring wheat to maturity ; and finally, that there are good grounds for be-
lieving that wheat has actually been grown at Abittibi House, Flying Post, New
Brunswick, on or about the forty-ninth purallel, and certainly at Lac Scul, or Lonely
Lake, between the fiftieth and fifty-first parallel. More than this : I was told on the
very best authority that Indian corn, a more delicate plant than wheat, came to maturity
lust year at Osnaburgh House, on Lake St. Joseph, and north of the fifty-first parallel.
Even at Moose Factory, in about the same latitude as Osnaburgh and situated on the
■coast, Dr. Bell tells us that he was informed that a few grains of wheat accidentally
dropped, grew and came to maturity. There is hardly any evidence on the oth°r side,
■cerainly none entitled to much weight, and the probabilities are all in favour of the
assumption that within the limits stated wheat may be successfully cultivated.

Barley. — The hardier varieties of this grain can be grown further north than any
other of the co-called cereals. In Scotland it grows on the Orkney Islands and in Shet-
land as far north as the sixty-first parallel. In western Lapland the limit is about the
seventieth parallel. In Russia it is cultivated on the shores of the White Sea, every-
where soutli of sixty-six degrees on the eastern side, and of sixty-seven degrees on the
■western side. In central Siberia the northern limit of the growth of barley is between
latitudes fifty-eight and fifty-nine. These facts are quoted on the authority of Mr. H.
Stephens, F.R.S., author of "The Book of the Farn.," "The Farmer's Guide," and other
standard works on agriculture, both in England and America. Mr. Stephens further
states "that a mean temperature during the summer of 48°4' seems to be all that is neces-
sary in Europe for the cultivation of barley, but that in the islands of the Atlantic a
temperature three or four degrees higher appears to be necessary for its success".

The territory awarded to our Province north of the Height of Land is situated be-
tween the forty-eighth and fifty-spcond parallels of latitude, or from four hundred to
seven hundred miles south of where barley is cultivated even in Siberia. Again, the
mean summei temperature at Moose Factory, in the extreme northern part of the terri-
tory, varies from fifty-eight to sixty-two degrees, and is probably higher in the central
and southern portions. This is at all events ten degrees higher than the temperature,

which according to Mr. Stephens, " is the only indispensable condifi-^n for the cultivation
of barley." I have seen barley growing at Pvupert's House and &i Moose Factory on the
coast, and at Flying Post and Matawagamingue in the southern pa;'t of the territory. I
have been told on what I consider good authority, that it has also been grown at New
Post, at Abittibi House, at New Brunswick, and at Long Lake House. Thus the evi-
dence is conclusive not only as to the perfect adaptation of the climate, but to the fact
that this grain has been actually cultivated in the northern, central and southern divi-
sions of tlie territory. All that even the most incredulous can contend for is that the crop
is poor or that it sometimes failr "^o ripen perfectly. Now as regards the latter statement,
I have no doubt that in the exl/eme northern part of the territory, bore ering on the
coast, it m:iy fail in exceptionally wet and cold summers to come to perfect maturity.
But this will not apply to the vast territory to the south, where barley will prove, in my
opinion, a good and perfectly reliable crop. Nor do I think it would fail to ripen
at Moose Factorv or even Albany, if suffijient attention were paid to the drainage of the
land, to the selection of the seed, to the time of sowing, and to a proper course or rotation of
crops. If the crop be poor (and it is by no means always so) icis in all probability owing
to poor farming rather than to anything that is wanting either in the soil or climate.

Oats. — This useful grain should grow wherever wheat will grow, indeed its growth is
practicable in Scotland, Ireland, and other countries, where w heat will not succeed. My
own belief is, that the hardier varieties of the oat may certainly be cultivated in the greater
pirt of the territory. I have not seen it growing, however, at anv of the posts I have
visited. I have been told that oats have been sown at Abittibi House, at New Bruns-
wick, and even at Moose Factory, and came to maturity ; but other parties again said
that the crop frequently proved a failure. This, however, may have arisen from the
causes alluded to under the head of " barley."

Rye. — In Germany, Austria, and Hungary, and other countries, rye is extensively
grown, and forms the principal bread-stulf of a very large ];>roportion of the population.
Ics cultiv ition does not extend, it is said, so far north as that of barley, but it grows in
regions too cold for wheat, and on soils too poor and sandy for any other grain. Its ri-
pening, in the opinion of some writers, can also be more confidently reckoned upon in cold
rofrions, than that of any other grain. I have neither seen rye growing nor have I ever
heard of any attempt to grow it in this territory. I am convinced, however, that at Mata-
wagamingue in the southern part of this territory, and in the sandy areas on both sidea
the Height of Land, th's important grain can and will be cultivated with very great ad-
vantage.

Peas and Beans. — These, which are called legumenes or leguminous plants, produce
seeds much richer in nitrogen or flesh-forming material, than the grains — wheat, oats,
barley, maize, rye, etc., called cereals. They form an aliment of great value, and are
extensively grown in many parts of the weld where they are used as food by man and
domestic animals.

The Windsor bean and Kidney -bean are generally relished when young and
green. A small variety of bean commonly known as the " Horse bean " is extensively
cultivated in Great Britain, where it is highly valued in combination with oats as a pro-
vender for horses. The kidney-bean when fully ripe, is a wholesome and very nutritive
aliment, highly esteemed in this country and elsewhere, especially by the working classes,
and commonly known under the name of haricot or white beans. I have not seen either
peas or beans cultivated as field crops in any part of the territory. They are common,
however, in the gardens even on the coast. At Moose Factory peas, kidney-beans and a
small variety of the broad or Windsor bean seem to be unfailing crops. They grow well,
and I have no doubt in ordinary seasons will ripen their seed. They are used, however,,
chiefly, if not entirely, in the green state.

The beans appear to succeed better and to be more prolific than the peas, which are
not always so good. I have been surprised at the invariable excellence of the crops of
both kinds of beans at Moose Factory. Nor have I ever seen a better crop of Dwarf-
kidney beans than was growing at Matawagamingue when I was there last August (20th).
The bean was of a brown colour, and a little larger tli in the white haricot. Mr. Rafr
told rae that they came to maturity and were quite equ u to the white beau.

,e cultivation
ctory on the
territory. I
wn at New-
bus the evi-

to the fact
luthern divi-
that the crop
er statement,
ering on the
ot maturity,
irove, in my
fail to ripen
linage of the
or rotation of
ability owing
climate.
I its growth is
ucceed. My
in the greater
posts I have

New Bruns-
is again said
son from the

3 extensively
e population.
■j it grows in
rain. Its ri-
1 upon in cold
have I ever
that at Mata-
)n both sides
ery great ad-

ants, produce

—wheat, oats,

lue, and are

by man and

young and
s extensively
lats as a pro-
ery nutritive
rking classes,
ot seen either
are common,
yr-beans and a
ey grow well,
sed, however,.

IS, which are
the crops of

op of Dwarf-
ugust(20th).

ot. Mr. Raft

The vetch, a variety of the pea family, grows wild everywhere, but nowhere is it
anything like so abundant as on the coast of James' Bay, So plentiful are they on the
more sandy parts of the old beaches that I have sometimes thought that the Indians
would do well to harvest a lot of them for use, at a pinch during the winter. With a lit-
tle judicious selection and cultivation this vetch might become of great service in a coun-
try, to the climate and soil of which it is so thoroughly adapted.

Potato. — There is probably no food plant that is like)" ^ be of more importance to
the inhabitants, present or future, of this territory, than x. . potato. There is none the
cultivation of which has been so thoroughly successful in every part. The admirable fit-
ness both of soil and climate for its growth has been established beyond dispute. No
one who has seen the crops at Moose Factory, Rupert's House, New Post, and Matawa-
gamingue, can entertain any doubt on this point. Whether viewed in reference to size,
quantity or quality, the crops at Moose Factory and Matawagamingue this year would
compare favourably with tho.so in the best potato growing districts in Ontario. They
keep all winter in common root-houses, and are sweet and good until the following crop is
tit for use. Peaty soil is particularly well suited to the growth of potatoes. As stated else-
where, there are millions of acres of peat-mosses in this territory, very extensive areas of
■which can be easily reclaimed, and when this country is settled and means of transport
provided, it is within the range of possibility, if not probable, that hundreds of thousan'ls
of tons of potatoes may be grown and sent south to supply the wants of the people in the
cities of Ontario and the northern states of the Union.

Other Roots. — If in the nearer or more remote future, the breeding of cattle and
dairy husbandry be likely to form important resources of this territory, as is by
m means improbable, then the fitness of the soil and climate for the growth of root
crops is of the greatest consequence. Among these the turnip is entitled to a
p'ace in the front rank. I have seen small patches of turnips, usually Swedish,
at most of the Company's posts in the territory and believe that on suitable soils,
proper culture Avould ensure large crops of excellent bulb.s. The carrot, beet and
parsnip can also be grown, but like the turnip have only hitherto been cultivated as gar-
den crops. I know no reason why they should not one and all SHCceed in the field also.

Green Vegetables. — Cabbages, spinach, lettuce, mustard, cress and radishes are grown
without any difficulty. The cauliflower, so tender, as I thought, in respect of frost,
appears to be one of the surest crops at Moose Factory, and is sometimes ready for the
table as early as the first of August. Potato-onions also grow well, but the season is too
short to grow onions of any size from the seed. The cut- worm is the great enemy of the
gardener at Moose Factory, as it is in many other parts of Canada, and if the cabbage and
cauliflower plants were not well looked after and protected, few would be left.

Fruits. — The only fruits that appear to be cultivated in the garden are the red and
black currant and raspberry. The red currant is remarkably prolific. Rhubarb also
grows well. Other small fruits, such as the strawberry and gooseberry might, I am per-
suaded, be raised with little trouble, for they are found growing wild in many places, and
perhaps nowhere more plentifully or of finer quality than on the coast. With these we have
the wild raspberry, a diminutive variety of blackberry which grows only a single berry on
each plant, and a very small kind of cranberry. The Huckle-berry or blue-berry is found
in great profusion from the long portages to the Height of Land. Indeed it may be
said to abound from the coast of Hudson's Bay to the shores of Lakes Huron and
Superior. It was nowhere in greater profusion or of finer quality than on the Height
of Land itself. The berries gathered from one measured square yard as an experiment
filled a large pint cup. At the same rate, an aero would produce two thousand four hun-
dred quarts of this wholesome fruit. Even allowing that the berries were exceptionally
plentiful on the spot in question, it is not the less true that could the quantity of fruit
which grows in the country lying between Lakes Huron and Superior and the fiftieth
parallel be approximately estimated it would appear simply incredible to those who have
not seen the country during the berry season. It would dwarf into comparative insigni-
ficance, in my opinion, all the other fruits put together. Without any rich or etrong
flavour it is a pleasant, refreshing and exceedingly wholesome fruit and may, I think, be
eaten in almost any quantity without danger. The natives are very fond of them, and

I I

even gather and dry the berries for use after the season is over. But all that man can
use is as a drop in the bucket; the almost unreduced bulk of the fruit forms a bountiful pro-
vision of Nature for her other creatures. To the bcxsts of the field and the fowls of the
air, and every creeping thing, these millions of bushels of fruit thus left over are as food; to
some, perhaps only an agreeable luxury, to all doubtless a source of delight of which we
can form no adequate conception. To none of all these, perhaps, is it a greater blessing
than to the ant, that diligent and brave little pioneer who precedes man and earth-worms
alike by centuries in the important work of ameliorathig and preparing the crude soil for
the support of higher orders of vegetable and animal life. That an omnivorous animal
like the bear should eat or even subsist for a time on these berries seems quite natural, but
wlien we find among its consumers carnivorous animals such as the fox, the marten and
the fisher, and such birds as ravens, wood-peckers and ducks, one cannot help feeling
more or less surprised.

The only other wild fruit that I shall notice is also a variety of Whortleberry.
This is a bush or tree not very unlike the wild cherry in appearance. North of the
Height of Land it attains a height in some places of ten or twelve feet, but is generally
about six feet. The fruit grows singly, not in bunches or clusters on the tree. It is of
an oblong or pear shape, larger than the blue-berry, but smaller than the grape. When
ripe it is of a purple or blue colour. It is sweeter and has more flavour than the Huckle-
berry, and is preferred by the natives to it. It too is found all the way from James' Bay
to Lake Huron, but nowhere did I see it in greater perfection than on the Mattagami
River. The fruit is not only pleasant and wholesome, but the juice would, I am persua-
ded, make an excellent wine, and the tree is worthy of cultivation and of a place in our
orchards or gardens.

The High-bush Cranberry and the Hazle-nut are also met with in many parts of this
territory, but in travelling south I did not observe any nut trees until I came to Little
Long Portage on the Mattagami River, nearly a hundred miles from James' Bay.

So soon as the Canadian Pacific Railway is extended through this tei'ritory, the
gathering of these wild fruits will afford the natives a lucrative employment, as it does
now to many of those on the north shore of the Georgian Bay. Nor to the great mass of
the inhabitants of our cities will an overflowing abundance of such wholesome fruits as
this territory affords in unlimited quantities, be otherwise than agreeable, the dearness of
those cultivated fruits which can be exported to foreign countries placing them to a great
extent out of the reach of the families of workingmen.

Nor is there anything unreasonable in the supposition that a country possessed of a
climate which enables the uncultivated soil to produce spontaneously such a variety and
abundance of wild fruits, may be capable of doing a great deal more with man's powerful
aid and assistance.

No attempt has been made yet, so far as I know, anywhere in this territory, to grow
apples, plums, or ..berries. I am inclined to think, however, that these and other
highly prized fruits might succeed in the southern, higher, and drier parts of the territory.
I should be much more hopeful of their doing so than on the north shore of Lake
Superior.

On the south side of the Height of Land, and coming down in some places to within
a few few miles of Lake Huron, the country like that for a considerable distance
north is full of lakes. These are not generally very deep, one result of which is
that the water heated by the sun's rays becomes much warmer throughout than
the water of lakes Huron and Superior. I found the temperature of the water of Lake
Monabing at the surface 70° Fah., and at fifty feet in depth it was still not less tlian 62^
I am of opinion, therefore, that orchards planted on islands or on the warm, dry ridges of
bouldery or gravelly soil, lying between such lakes or even to the south of them, would
not be likely to suffer from summer frosts, the chief, if not only obstacle to the growth
of many valuable fruits. I saw on Whitefish Lake, Indian corn planted in just such a
locality as that I refer to, and this circumstance, which I have noticed elsewhere, goes far
to convince me that the climate of a wide belt of territory on both sides the Height,
of Land, between Lake Huron and James' Bay, is so tempered and modified by tii •-
warm waters of the numerous small and shallow lakes, which cover probably one-third of

i|j_

that man can
a, bountiful pro-
be fowls of the
are as food; to
it of which we
reater blessing
ad earth-worms
e crude soil for
ivorous animal
ite natural, but
ihe marten and
ot help feeling

Whortleberry.

North of the
out is generally
3 tree. It is of

grape. When
han the Huckle-
rom James' Bay
the Mattagami
Id, I am persua-
if a place in our

any parts of this
; came to Little
les' Bay.
LS territory, the
ment, as it does
he great mass of
ilesome fruits as
, the dearu'jss of
them to a great

y possessed of a

oh a variety and

man's powerful

erritory, to grow

these and other

of the territory.

1 shore of Lake

! places to within
lerable distance
suit of which is
hroughout than
le water of Lake
not less than 62"
•111, dry ridges of

of them, would
lo to the growth

1 in just such a
suwhere, goes far
sides the il>nglir.
modilied by th ■.
ably one-third of

the country, as to admit of the cultivation of many of our most valuable kinds of
fruit.

Grasses. — Whatever doubt may remain in the minds of any as to the agricultural
value of the country north of the Height of Land in respect of its grain-growing capabili-
ties, there can be none in regard to its fitness to produce the more important roots and
grasses. From the Height of Land northward to the coast of James' Bay nothing on the
north shore of Lakes Huron or Superior can exceed tlie luxuriance of the native grasses.
These, however, are limited to beaver meadows, alluvial lands along the banks of the
rivers, marshes in vioinity of the lakes, and to a broad belt on the southern coast of
James' Bay ; where covered with forest, bush or peat mosses, little grass is to be seen.

I have not met with a field of cultivated grass in the whole territory. At those posts
of the Hudson Bay Company where cattle are kept, they obtain their hay either from the
marshes bordering upon the inland lakes or from the salt marshes on the coast. Some
however, of our cultivated grass-se«ds have been sown in former times at several of the
posts, possibly with the view, rather to improve the pasture, than for hay. Be this as it may,
white clover is to be seen at almost all the posts, and red clover, sown some fifteen years
ago at least, is still common in the fields at Flying Post. Timothy likewise grows ad-
mirably In this territory, being quite able, like the red clover, not only to endure the cold
of th;! winter, but to mature its seed, as is proved by its being still found on portages
where the first seeds were accidentally dropped many years ago. These facts though
meagre, are important, enabling us, as they do, to form at least some idea of the fitness
of this territory for pastoral pursuits.

Cattle. — With one doubtful exception not only man but all the domestic animals
usually kept by him enjoy excellent health in this territory. The only exception is the
horse, and the only place Albany Factory. Several horses having died unaccountably at
this post, the Company have not made any further attempt to keep them there. The
cause, whatever it may be, can hardly be the climate, as that differs but little from Moose
Factory, where the horses are remarkably healthy.

Cows and oxen are kept at all the principal posts, and I have invariably found them
wherever I have been, healthy and in fine condition, pretty good evidence of the salubrity
of the climate and excellence of the pasture. At Moose Factory, where some sixty head
at least are constantly kept, a certain number are slaughtered every Fall, and are quite fat,
although then taken straiglit from the grass. The cows yield a large quantity of good milk.

Skeep. — There is a small flock of sheep also at Moose Factory. They appear to be of
a common and not very large breed. It is necessary to house them at night and watch
them during the day, to protect them from dogs, of which numbers are kept by the In-
dians. They seem to thrive pretty well notwithstanding, and are, so far as I know, sub-
ject to no particular disease.

Hogs. — A few pigs, seemingly well-bred, are kept. They are allowed during the
summer to run at large on an island opposite the Post, and what they can gather for
themselves is supplemented with potatoes and waste from the kitchens. They are thus
maintained in good healtli and growing condition, but cannot be fed up fit to kill without
grain or meal in the Fall, which is I presume given to them, for the home-cured hams
are exceedingly fine.

Poultry. — It is impossible to keep poultry at or near any of the fur-trading posts unless
they are enclosed in a well-fenced yard. The Indian dogs, unbroken and half-starved,
would worry and devour any fowls chat were suffered to run at large. But for this the
common barn-door fowl might be reared and kept with great advantage. The turkey
would do well also with full liberty to range about during summer.

The vast numbers of wild-fowl which migrate to and spend the summer months in
this territory affords sufficient proof of its fitness for geese and ducks, both of which
might no doubt be easily bred and reared.

In conclusion under this head, the agricultural resources of this territory are, as
will now have been seen, various and by no means unimportant. The climate has been
shown to be such : —

That we have good reason to believe wheat, oats, barley, and rye, as also peas and beans
can be successfully cultivated.
2

That excellent crops of potatoes and turnips can be grown in any part of the territory,
and that other roots such as the carrot, beet end parsnip will in all probability
succeed.

That cauliflowers, cabbages, and all the couinion vegetables raised in the northern part
of Ontario can be likewise grown at Moose Factory and at other posts south
thereof.

That the cultivated grasses, red clover ar.d timothy, grow lu.Kuriantly, mature their seed
and survive the winter.

That wild fruits of vai-ious kinds, and valuable of themselves, are spontaneously produced
in great quantities, warranting the inference that cultivated varieties may be suc-
cessfully and proGtably grown in the territory.

That live stock, horses, cows, sheep, pigs, and poultry thrive remarkably well in every
part of the territory, with the exception of Albany Factory, where horses alone for
some unknown reason have not lived.

The soil, as might be expected in a territory so large, is variable, ranging from clay
loams at or near the coast, to light, sandy or gravelly loams towards the Height of Land,
and in some sections very extensive peat-mosses. These peat-mosses are confined chiefly
to the territory lying to the north of the forty-ninth parallel. The southern limit,
however, of the peat-moss region, is I believe very considerably north of the forty-ninth,
if not even of the fiftieth parallel, west of the Missinaibe Branch of Moose River.
These peat-mo.sses repose on clay mai'ls, and although not immediately available for culti-
vation, I have hardly a doubt vast tracts will be eventually reclaimed and converted into
good arable land.

Along the banks of the rivers, even In this northern belt, there is a strip of good
land. The islands and river bottoms have a rich alluvial soil. Above the junction of the
Mattagami and Ahkuckootish Rivers this alluvial or bottom land is still more extensive
than below the Long Portage, and much of it that is probably flooded for a week or two
in the early spring might be turned to very good account as meadows or otherwise, there
being no danger whatever of flooding after the subsidence of the spring freshet, caused
by the melting of the snow. As we approach the Height of Land and the country
becomes more broken, the dry ridges will aff'ord tine pasture, while portions of the lower
slopes where not too stony, and the river bottoms may be cultivated. The swamps, if
drained, would frequently make excellent land, and the marshes will always bo more or
less valuable for grass and hay.

I frankly admit that the development of the agricultural resources of this territory
must be the work of time ; that it will require capital, intelligence, experience and energy.
I believe, however, that the people of Ontario will be found equal to the task. If not, I
am at a loss to know where we shall find those who will. But on whomsoever the task
may fall, once opened up by means of roads and railways and the soil reclaimed, there
cannot be a doubt that the agricultural resources will alone be sufficient to employ and
maintain a large population in comfort, if not in affluence.

Timber.

No one can travel through the United States or Canada without being struck with
the enormous extent of once timbered land that has been cleared up or reclaimed from
the forest. By far the greater portion of tlio timber has been cut down, piled into heaps
and burnt on the spot, in order to get rid of it, the sole object being to clear up and cul-
tivate the land. Another portion of the timber has been used for fuel, either by the
owner or others to whom he may have sold it. Lastly large quantities, more particularly
of pine, have been cut down, to be hewn into square logs or pieces, or sawn into boards
and scantling, commonly called lumber. For this " lumber " there is a rapidly increas-
ing demand both at home and abroad. An regards the land specially cleared with the
view to cultivation, there is very little chance of its ever being replanted or again be-
■coming a forest. Nor is it probable that much of the second description will be allowed
to grow up again. Of the third division only, namely that on which the pine and other
trees have been cut for lumber, is any considerable proportion of the land at all likely to

tho territory,
1 probability

Lortbern part
: posts south

re their seed

usly produced
3 may be suc-

wcll in every
[•ses alone for

ring from clay
eight of Land,
onfined chiefly
outhorn limit,
lie forty-ninth,

Moose River.
liable for culti-

converted into

a strip of good
junction of the
more extensive
• a week or two
)therwise, there
[freshet, caused
d the country
ns of the lower
he swamps, if
,ys bo more or

this territory
ice and energy,
ask. If not, I
soever the task
eclaimed, there
to employ and

.u>' struck with
reclaimed from
)iled into heaps
lear up and cul-
1, either by the
ore particularly
wn into boards
rapidly increas-
leared with the
ed or again be-
will be allowed
pine and other
1 at all likoly to

be left uncultivated, with the resulting possibility of being again re-clad with forest trees.
Estimates have been made of the quantity of pine timber yet remaining iu the United
States, and of the length of time it may be expected to last. The data, however, on
which such estimates are based are so uncertain and fluctuating that little or no reliance
can be placed upon them. Tliis much, however, we may feel pretty well assured of : 1st,
That the area or reserve of timber land is rapidly dimishing, and will continue to dimin-
ish in a still greater ratio ; 2nd, That the consumption of timber, already enormous, is
rapidly increasing, and must continue to increase almost indefinitely ; 3rd, That the best
and most accessible timber lands or limits have been and will continue to be the first to be
.stripped of their timber ; 4th, That the cost of placing in the market lumber from inferior
and remote limits will hereafter be greater than now or than it has been heretofore ; 5th,
That as a necessary consequence of these premises, subject to temporary fluctuations and
depressions, the price of timber must surely rise.

From all which it may be reasonably inferred that timber lands which from their re-
moteness, inaccessibility or the inferior quality of the timber, are now considered worth-
less, cannot fail to become in course of time of very great value.

This brings me to a point I am anxious to make and to impress on the Government and
people of our Province, namely, the prospective value of the so-called "disputed territory,"
north of the Ileiglit of Land in respect of its timber resources.

In order to this, I shall put what I have to say into the narrative form, commencing
at my starting point this season, namely, the mouth of the Mississagua River, which enters
Lake Huron a little to the west of the eighty-third meridian. With the exception of some
pine still left on the Indian Reserve no considerable body of pine is visible from the river,
until we approach the Oak Rapids, about eighteen miles up. Below this there is a greater
or less breadth of river bottom land, the timber on which is mostly elm, maple and birch,
with a few pine and other kinds of trees. Above the Oak Rapids, and from thence to Long
Portage, which I take to be another fifteen miles, there would appear to be a tolerable
quantity of good white pine. At and above Long Portage, bush-tires have destroyed
most of the timber on the banks of the river, until we come to where Mr. Wright, of
Barrie, has been getting out squared timber, about fifteen miles above Long Portage
again, nr say fifty miles from the mouth of the river. There are eight falls and rapids in
this distance, the most formidable of which is tliat at Long Portage. Tlie Mississagua
River is from two to three chains in width and brings down a large quantity of water in
the early spring, but it subsides rapidly and is very shallow in the summer. The current
rims strong throughout, but is particularly heavy above the long portage. How far Mr.
Wright's timber had been hauled before reaching the river at the place above referred to,
I cannot say, as we did not go back far enough on the road to see. I did not, however,
observe any good pine on or near the banks of the river even at this place. At the Grand
llapid, some fifteen or sixteen miles above where Mr. Wright's timber was bi-ought out,
there is a limited area of country lying some five or six miles along the banks of the river
which, if not entirely, has in a great measure escaped the ravages of recent fires, and the
timber is in consequence superior to any that I noticed elsewhere. A few miles above the
Grand Rapid, or say about seventy-five miles from Lake Huron, we enter the first lake. This
lake although not now apparently more than four or five miles in length, has I think at one
time been very much larger. Like most others situated on large rivers, this lake is being
gradually drained or converted into dry land, partly by the sediment brought into it from
above, and partly by the wearing away and deepening of the channel at the lower end or
outlet. Although this is the first lake on the main river, there are numerous lakes on
the smaller tributaries lying °^ both sides of the Mississagua. At the upper or northern
extremity of this lake the Kid-da-mug or western branch of the Mississagua comes in.
This and the White River, which enters from the east about mid-Vfiy betweeen Upper
Slate Falls and Long Portage, are the two principal tributaries of the Mississagua.
Following up the main river eastward for about eleven miles, we come to where the river
I again forks. One branch, called the Winnibeegon, falls in from the north, taking its
rise in a large lake of the same name, near the Height of Land. The other or easterd
[branch derives its waters chiefly from Green Lake and others lying to the east and north-
5a8t. Tliis point is about ninety miles from the mouth of the Mississagua, and there is

.1;

a portage here called the Shingwauk, or Pine Porta.L From a point some four miles
above the Grand Rapid to thia junction, a stretch of some eighteen or twenty miles, but
little pine of any sor*^ is met with. Red pine, however, seems here to be taking the place
of white pine. Our most direct route would have been up the Winnibecgon, but
that stream is so crooked and difficult of navigation that our guide took the other
or eastern branch, which in six or seven miles brought us to Green Lake. This lake
is said to be from si.s; to eight miles in length, and four or five in width, but the islands,
of which it contains a number, render it impossible to see the whole of it at a glance and
thus estimate its size. Crossing it in an east-north-easterly direction, our route led us to
a small river, called Round Lake River, which enters Green Lake near its eastern ex-
tremity, a little to the eastward of where the old fur-trading post of the Hudson's Bay
Company formerly stood. The Post is now situated on another and smaller lake, some
three or four miles to the east. From the junction of the Winnibeegon to this point, say
fourteen miles, the principal timber is red pine. The trees are sound and healthy appar-
ently, and may average forty or forty-tive inches in circumference, although some of the
larger ones are as much as sixty inches circumference three or four feet from the ground.

We now ascended Round Lake River to Round Lake itself, thence to what is called in
Indian, "the Lake that Runs Through." These lakes are situated in one of the narrow
glacial channels or troughs alluded to elsewhere as being a common feature on or near the
Height of Land, and running (as in the present instance) in a northerly and southerly
direction.

Our route left "the liake that Runs Through," near what appeared to be its northern ex-
tremity and by a portage three-quarters of a mile in length we passed over a ridge nearly one
hundred feet in height and intersected the Winnibeegon Branch of the Mississagua. This
stretch, namely from where we left Green Lake to where we meet or intersect Winnibeegon
River, I estimate roughly at about ten or twelve miles in length. It is well timbered through-
out chiefly with white and red pine. The white pine attains eight feet in circumference
at the butt, red pine four to six feet, white spruce five to six feet, cedar fou. feet and white
birch and balsam about the same. On the summit of the ridge over which the port-
ago passes and some 1 250 feet or more above the level of the sea, I saw and measured
three white pine, standing within less than ten yards of each other, which averaged
eight feet in circumference at the butt, and would give four or five logs each, the lower
two if not three apparently free from knots or any other fault or blemish. With such
facts as these before us, it is absurd to contend that the climate on or near the Height of
Land will not admit of the growth of valuable timber.

We then ascended the Winnibeegon River until we were within not more than half-a-
mile, according to my guide's statement, from Winnibeegon Lake. At this point a tributary
comes from the east, up which our route lay. This stretch following all the turns and bends
of the river is not less I think than twenty-four miles, for the river is very crooked. If
the late Mr. A. P. Salter's map of this part of the country be at all correct, howevei*, the
distance is not more than fourteen or fifteen miles in a straight line. The course although
constantly changing i.s, on the whole, northerly. So far as the rivers and lakes on Mr.
Salter's map are located from actual instrumental survey I have no doubt they are correct,
but much of his information must have been obtained from Indian sources, and I am in-
clined to think that in some respects, and particularly in the course of the Winnibeegon
River the man is incorrect, as it evidently is incomplete.

This upper portion of the river flows in all probability through what has been
in ancient times the bed of one or more lakes, and the ridges which formed the original
banks or boundaries of these lakes are rarely if ever seen. The soil on the lower groiind
where not wet and swampy is for the most part barren and sandy, and it is to this circum-
stance alone, I think, must be attributed tho poorness of the timber and the almost total
absence of red or white pine.

My guide informed me that there are a great many red and white pine on the ridges
around Winnibeegon Lake. I was sorry that our route did not pass through this lake. I
intended examining it on my return from Moose Factory, but as mentioned before my
voyageurs anticipated great difficulty in returning this way at a season when the water
is usually very low, and I decided to take another route.

ime four miles
enty miles, but
iiking the place
inibeegon, but
took the other
ike. This lake
but the islands,
at a fflance and
route led us to
its eastern ex-
) Hudson's Bay
iller lake, some
) this point, say
healthy appar-
igh some of the
rom the ground,
what is called in
le of the narrow
e on or near the
ly and southerly

3 its northern ex-
ridge nearly one
ssissagua. This
^ct Winnibeegon
mbered through-
in circumference
.1. feet and white
which the port-
w and measured
which averaged
, each, the lower
ish. With such
IV the Height of

more than half-a-
point a tributary
! turns and bends
ery crooked. If
ect, however, the
3 course although
and lakes on Mr.
t they are 3orrect,
es, and I am iu-
;he Winnibeegon

1 what has been
med the original

the lower ground
is to this circum-

1 the almost total

pine on the ridges

)ugh this lake. I

tioned before my

L when the water

Resuming our journey we now loft the Winnibeegon River and ascended the tributary
or East Branch just mentioned. The width of the stream at this place was not more than
about a chain. Its course was very crooked, at first easterly, but becoming after we had
passed some few miles, northeasterly, and so continued until about the end of the seventh
mile, which brought us to a rapid in which there is a very considerable fall. Here it
was necessary to make a portage about one-third of a mile in length. This was the
twenty-third portage reckoning from the mouth of the river. Eight or nine miles more
on an average course of about north-east brought us to a narrow lake, the length of
which, however, was not less than five or six miles, the longer axis lying as usual nearly
north and south. This again forms in my opinion a portion of one of tho.se channels before
alluded to as having been excavated by the current of ice which enclosing millions of
boulders and bearing an inconceivably great burden of stones, gravels, sands and clay,
would appear to have forced its way in one vast sheet of unknown thickness over the
Height of Land, during what has been called the glacial period. This channel I think
may be traced across the Height of Land to the north, and it is by no ,means improbable
that the depression in which "the Lake that Runs Through" is situated some twenty or
more miles south in nearly a direct line, may even form another part of it.

The nature of the country and character of the timber between this lake and Winni-
beegon River, differs little from that passed through in the preceding stretch up the Winni-
beegon itself. The banks of this East Branch are for the most part low and marshy, or
otherwise sandy.

Fires too, have run over this section so generally, within the last twenty or thirty"
years, that Mr. Salter describes it on his map as "burnt country." I do not think how-
ever that the marshy, wet, or ever t' Iry, sandy flats bordering on the stream have ever
grown much if any white or red piin. . Tamarac, alder and willows, have been the prin-
cipal growth on tha wet ground, and Banksian pine on the dry sandy flats, which
have, I suspect, also formed the bottom of former lakes. The higher riJges, only
seen at a distancs on this stretch, have however undoubtedly produced red and white pine
of good size and quality.

Our next stretch commences with the lake just referred to. This lake, the name of
which my guide did not know, is not more than six miles long, by half-a-mile wide. The
ridges on the east and west sides are low, apparently rarely exceeding one hundred feet in
height. Nice groves of red and white pine are visible here and there, particularly near
the upper or northern extremity. Here we made a portage (the twenty-fourth). This
portage starts from the north-eastern extremity of the lake and runs in an easterly direc-
tion over a ridge, the summit of which is at least one hundred feet above the lake. It is
a mile long and terminates at a very small creek, the water of which comes from the
north and flows southward.

The soil on the top of this ridge is a sandy loam and I was pleased to find with trees
of other kinds a scattered growth of clean and healthy white pine, from six to seven and
a-half feet in circumference at the butt, and running up frequently forty feet from the
ground without the vestige of a knot or branch. This was especially interesting as we
were now close to the divide or watershed on the Height of Land, and nearly if not quite
as high. On the lower ground the soil was peaty, and tamarac and spruce were common,
the larger trees being about four feet in circumference.

Embarking on the small creek at the east end of this twenty-fourth portage, we
found the water so shallow and the channel so crooked that we had the greatest difficulty
in ascending it, for the first mile. It then opened out into a sudcession of little marshy
ponds with shallow connecting creeks for about two miles, during which our course was on
the whole northerly and ended at last in a muskeg or peat-moss. Here we came to the
Height of Land Portage. This portage (the twenty-fifth since we started) is about three-
quarters of a mile in length, and ascending to the height of sixty feet, descends again
towards the north nearly if not quite as much, terminating at a good sized lake called
Wa-qua-ma-ga-ming or Clear-water Lake. The Height of Land or divide is, I should say,
about fifteen hundred feet above the level of James' Bay, to the north, and nine hundred
feet higher than Lake Huron to the south, but no reliable estimate can be based on only
one or two readings of the barometer.

lltH

Tlie distance from the mouth of MisHissagua River to "the divide" or watershed on
the Height of Land by this route, I estimate very roughly at about one hundred and
sixty-five miles. In a direct line however, as shown on Mr. Salter's map, it is only one
hundred and five miles.

I did not observe any red or white pine on the last portage, but there were consider-
able numbers on the same ridgo within half-a-mile of where the portage crossed it.

Thus in respect of both climate and soil the whole southern slope from the summit to
the very shores of Lake Huron, is beyond dispute, a good pine-growing region.

Turning our faces to the north we once more embark and commence the long de-
scent to James Bay.

Clear- water Lake, or Wa-qua-ma-ga-ming, is the source of the •' Ah-kuc-koo-tish" or
Ground-hog River. But of this fact neither I nor my voyageurs were aware until some
days after. It is about six milos in length, and from half a mile to a mile in width. The
longer axis like the lakes immediately south of the watershed pointing nearly north and
south. The water as its name would imply is very clear. The ridges forming the shores
on the east and west sides are of moderate height, that on the east bearing an irregular
but by no means inconsid(!rable quantity of pine. There is a scattering growth also of
apparently good white and red pine on the west side, but less numerous thati on the east.
The other trees consist chiefly of spruce, Banksian pine, balsam, white birch and aspen.
My guide told me that some few sugar maple of a fair size grow near the shores of thi»
lake, but I did not see them.

On reaching the northern extremity of the lake we entered its outlet, a little stream
about a chain in width, having a rather rapid current and sufficient depth of water at
this season of the year to float our canoe nicely.

Down this stream we took our way for twenty-four miles, at the termination of
which we came to a lake called " Cache Lake." The river is very crooked, our course
changing frequently as often as ten times in a mile. The average bearing however of this
stretch is north-north-east, or thereabouts. The first twelve miles is through a
marshy and comparatively flat country, which when not marshy appears to be dry and
sandy. It resembles indeed the country lying contiguous to the upper part of the Winni-
beegon River, on the south side of the Height of Land. No high ridges were seen after
we left Clear- water Lake. A low reef of Laurentian rock now oud then crossed the river
occasioning a fall or a rapid around which we were obliged to make a portage, but other-
wise rock, excepting in tiie form of boulders, was rarely seen. Like the Winnibeegon, the
river throughout the far greater part of this stretch seems to flow over what has formerly
been the bottom of one or more fresh water lakes. In the lower half the reefs and ridges
are both higher, but nowhere did they rise to a greater elevation tlian one
hundred feet, and rarely so much as that. Throughout the whole distance there is hardly
a thousand acres in a block over \\^iich fire does not seem to have passed some time
or other within the last forty or fifty years. Consequently very few fully grown or large
trees are met with. Those that there are consist of spruce, tamarac, Banksian pine and bal-
sam on the drier ground with occasional spots on which aspen, white birch may be seen
On the lower and wetter land, alder, willow and more rarely black ash may be found.
Black ash however only appears in the last few miles of the stretch, and the size is not
more than from six to ten inches diameter. I did not ob.serve either white or red pine,
until we approached Cache Lake when they are once more visible on rather high ridges to the
north-west. In the whole distance from the south end of Clear-water Lake to Cache Lake,
which I roughly estimate at thirty miles following the bends of the river, ten portages
were nece.ssary, the longest of which was about a mile. The total fall does not exceed
one hundred feet I think, or little more than three feet per mile on an average.

Cache Lake, the beginning of the next stretch or division of our journey is about
three miles long, in an east-northeasterly direction, and about half a mile in width. A
schistose rock (Huronian) hore forms the shore. Near the eastern extremity a
small stream falls in from the south. The number of lieads of deer and other animals,
stuck up on poles, as trophies of the chase, would appear to indicate a good hunting
country. Leaving Cache Lake by the river which flows from its eastern extremity, another
mile brought us to a rapid with a fall of nearly four feet, which was run successfully.

or watershed on
le hundred and
,p, it is only one

e were consider-

rossod it.

II the summit to

igion.

ace the long de-

kuc-koo-tish" or
ware until some

in width. The
early north and
rming the shores
ing an irregular

growth also of
liaii on the east,
irch and aspen,
le shores of this

i, a little stream
pth of water at

e termination of
loked, our course
{ howtiver of this
i is through a
•s to be dry and
,rt of the Winni-

I were seen after
crossed the river
rtage, but other-
Viunibeegon, the
lat has formerly
roofs and ridges

,tion than one
e there is hardly
massed some time
y grown or large
ilan pine and bal-
rch may be seen
may be found.

II the size is not
-^hito or red pine,
high ridges to the
:e to Cache Lake,
ver, ten portages
does not exceed

journey is about
le in width. A
irn extremity a
id other animals,
a good hunting
streinity, another
run successfully.

This was as far as my guide had ever been before. Flying Post was still, as we supposed, a
long way olF, and as we might miss it altogether, it would hereafter bo necessary to proceed
very cautiously, for in the event of losing our canoe or provisions in any of the numerous
and unknown rapids, it would have gone hard with us, especially if unable to find the post.

Hor(^ the river took a strong easterly b(^nd, sometimes opening into and forming small
lakes or ponds, at other times contracting to its usual size. It hoLl this course for about
nineteen niiltss, following nearly, as it appeared to mo, the strike of the Huronian rocks
at or about their junction with the Laurentian, In this stretch five more portages were
required, the total fall being seventy-five feet, or say four feet in a mile. The river then find-
ing a passage, turns north, crossing the Huronian ridges, and at the end of nine miles tum-
bles into a largo basin, at the south end of Lake Matagaraa. In this northerly stretch
(though but nine miles in length) five more portages had to be mad(;, and tiie fall, very
roughly estimated, is not less, I think, than 175 feet, or about 19.^ feet per mile. The
total length of this stretch, reckoning from the upper end of Cache Lake to that of Mata-
gama, is about thirty-two miles, or sixty-two miles from the Height of Land.

Now, as regards the timber. Although red and white pine appeared in some numbers
on the ridgos near Cache Lake, and a few trees at other pointit on the route, there is no
pine of any importance whatever, until we come within two or three miles of Lake Mata-
gama. The timber, where any, consists mostly of spruce, tamarac, Banksian pine, white
birch and aspen. But the fact is, the country has been too generally and recently burnt
over, to allow of the growth of large trees of any kind, however favourable tlie soil or
climate might be. The last two or three miles however of this stretch, h;i(l not been
over-run by recent fires, and there is a good growth of mixed timber, among which I saw
white pine and spruce as much as six or seven feet in circumference.

Before we reached Lake Matagama, I bad discovered that the river wo had been
following from Clear-water Lake was really the same as that which bolow Lake Mata-
gama is called the Ahkuckootish or Ground-hog River, and that it svould lead us direct to
Flying Post. I had, in fact, a.scend(!d this river to a tributary which comes in from the
eastward six or seven miles south of Lake Matagama last year on my journey from
Flying Post to Matawagamingue Post. Flying Post was now only eighteen miles distant
and all doubts as to our being able to find it were removed.

Lake Matagama, reckoning from the termination of the last portage to the end of
slack-water about a mile above Flying Post is at least seventeen miles long. In width it
varies from a quarter of a mile or less, at the extremity, to as mucli as two miles else-
where. Its course or bearing nearly north and south. About seven or eight miles from
the upper or southern extremity, it throws off a long arm on the east side This arm,
although sixteen miles in length will not average half a mile in width. The bearing of
the longer axis is north-east and south-west. It is very deep, and the shore on the
ftorth-west side steep and precipitous. It has every appearance of having been
formed by ice, as elsewhere described. The ridges run from fifty to two hundred and
fifty feet in height above the level of the lake, and although sometimes bare, are gene-
rally covortvd with a light soil. By far the greater part of tliis section of the country has
been more or less denuded of its timber by fire. Some of these fires date back a generation
or more ; others have occurred as recently as last year. There is ample evidence of there
having boon a fine growth of pine, both white and red, and of the fitness of this part also
of the territory to produce good merchantable timber. Tlie outlet of the river is at the
extreme north end of the main lake. Here it soon forms a rapid, which can, however,
be run by good canoe-men at any season. Half a mile below this rapid on the left hand
bank, is the Hudson Bay Company's Post.

Our route since passing the Height of Land, may be briefly summarised, as follows : —
1. From the Height of Land to the junction of a largo stream from the west, twenty-six miles,
with an average course of north-northeast. 2. From the junction of the above stream,
four miles above Cache Lake, to the fifteenth portage, a short distance below the junction
of a large stream on the south-east side, twenty-seven miles, on an average cour-se of
east. From fifteenth portage to Flying Post, twenty-seven miles, average course north to
north-northeast ; in all eighty miles by the windings and bendings of the rivers and lakes.
In direct lines these distances would be much less.

i i'l

It may bo remeinborecl by some of tlio readers of this report, that a imiiibor of years
ago, RlesHors. Salter and Sinclair, Provincial Land Surveyors, were instructed by the Gov-
ernment of the day, to run an exploration line in latitude '17° r)G' nortli, starting respec-
tively at Micliipicoten Kivcr, Lake Superior, and at some point on the Upper Ottawa.
It was expected that these two parties would have met, but for some unaccountable reason
thoy failed to do so. I am told by l\Ir. Thomas Moore, the officer in charg(( of Flying
Post, on the authority of Indian hunt«'rs, who have seen both lines, that they did not over-
lap, but w(!ro correctly run and pointing, as they express it, straight for each other, and
would have met, or nearly so, had they only boon extendi'd a few miles further. This
exploration line cro.ssed, I am told, the upper end of Lake Matagama.

Leaving Flying Post with fresh guides the river immediately opened out into a lake
some six or seven miles in length and two miles wide;, which is called Ahkuckooti.sh,
or Groundhog Lake. In about eight miles, following a north easterly cour.se we came to the
first rapid which might fairly enough be considered the end of the lake, as above that there is
little or no current. Below this for the next thirty miles the river pursutis a north-
north-easterly course It then runs for the most part between north- west and north-north-
west for some t(!n miles, terminating at the lower end of the Long Rapids. This stretch
from Flying Post to tins lower end of the Long llapids is in all, I think, about forty-
eight miles. In this distance there are numerous rapids, most of which were run. It
was necessary to make, however, si.x portages and several short demi-charges. The fall
(like the distance, roughly estimated) may be about two hundred and fifty feet.

There has been at one time a great quantity of line red and whit(! pine on Lake
Ahkuckootish, and even now a good deal still renjains on islands, peninsulas and
other parts, that have escaped the fires which have apparently made such tremendous havoc
among the forests all over the country. Good white pine too, are seen on the ridges
lying ofi' quite a distance to the east of th(! lake. As we go north the pine di!creases, and
after we leave the lake it is not met with very often, or in considerable quantities any-
where near the river. We saw, however, single trees and small groves as much as twenty-
live miles below Flying Post, and one of my guides told me that on the banks of
a lake lying to the west of the river and some fifty miles north of Flying Post, (in which
part of the territory he himself hunted) both red and white pine may be s(!en growing.
The only pine, however, that we observed on the bank of the river north of the long
rapid, was the Banksian pine This part of the territory is a net-work of lakes as far
north as the forty-ninth parallel, or some sixty miles north of Flying Post, and I have
little doubt that more or less red and white pine will be found on the drier ridges and in
the sheltered hollows, and ravines bordering on these lakes. It is the nature and chara*
ter of the soil and country rather than of the climate which her^ limits the pine forests
to the territory lying south of the forty-ninth parallel.

North of the forty-ninth parallel, in all that region lying between our eastern bound-
ary and Messinaibe River, the country is too flat. As a consequence of this and the pre-
valence of a clay soil or subsoil, the natural drainage is imperfect, and the surface wet.
These conditions favour the production of sphagnum or bog-moss, the long continued
growth and decay of which has produced the peat bogs or muskegs, which cover the far
greater part of the territory in question. Ou these peat bogs (till drained) neither pine
nor any other timber can grow.

The other trees found in the region lying between the Height of Land and the
forty-ninth parallel are spruce, balsam, cedar, Banksian pine, and tamar^c, all of which
attain good useful sizes. Among leaf-bearing or deciduous trees, again we, have wliite-
birch, poplar, aspen, alder, willows, black ash, and a few maple, elm, and black birch.
The three last, however, are neither numerous nor of large size.

I need not reiterate what I have said in fornusr reports in refercjijo to the timber in
the northern part of the territory. Having, however, on our return from Moose Factory
followed another and little known route, some fifty miles to the east of that by which we
■went, it will be proper to give here a description of the timber met with in the region
thus passed through, more particularly the pine timber.

Ascending the Mattagami Branch of the Moose River, the first pine met with was a
red pine, on the east side, a little below the Sturgeon Falls, and about seventy miles north

uiubor of years
ted l)y the Uov-
Uiutiiig rcspoc-
Uppor Ottawa.
)uiiUil)l(i r(!ason
arjj'u of Flying
ny did not ovor-
viidi otlior, and
furtluT. This

out into a lako
Ahkuukootish,
! we canio to tho
ivo that there ia
irsues a north-
,nd north-nortli-
1. This stretch
ik, about forty-
i wiTi! run. It
iruos. The fall
f feet.

e pine on Lake
peninsulas and
emendous havoc
n on the ridges
i decreasf^s, and
quantities any-
much as twenty-
II the banks of
Post, (in which
seen growing,
orth of the long
i of lakes as far
ost, and I have
er ridges and in
;ure and charat
the pine forests

r eastern bound-
:his and the pre-
he surface wet.
long continued
ch cover the far
ed) neither pine

: Land and the
rtic, all of which
we have white-
ud black birch.

to the timber in

Moose Factory

lat by which we

h in the region

met with was a
?nty miles north

of the Hudson Bay Company's Post at Mattawagamingue. Mr. Austin, C.E., when en-
gaged in running one of the lines for the ('anndian Pacific Railway, calculated the lati-
tude of this post to be 47' 53'. Thus it would appear, as previously notice<l on tho
Ahkuckootish, that on or about this meridian, tho forty-ninth parallel of latitude is the
oxtnMue noithern limit if the red and white pino. About fifteen miles above this, at the
Wlii.stling llapid, both red and whit<! pine may again be seen. The larg(!.st red ))ine was
eight feet in circumf(!rence at the butt, say four feet from the ground. The white j»ine were
smaller, the biggest of them measuring about si.\ feet in circumference. No more pine
worth mentioning is met with on or near the lianks of the river until we reacli Lake
Kenogamis.see, on the upper or soutliern half of which there must have been a valuable
pinery thirty or forty years ago, before th(( occurrence of the busli-fires whicli have
destroyed so much of it. There still remains no inconsiderabh! quantity of white
pine. Some trees that T measured were from eight feet to nine feet in circumference, and
well-grown, lied pino is also found here, but the trees are fewer in number. The liank-
sian pine is common, and grows to a large size. From the ujjper end of Lake Kenoga-
missee, however, through Lake Mattagami to the Hudson Pay Company's Post (Matta-
wagamingue) red pine predominates, and is the most common timber where bush-iires
have not recently passed over tho ground. It is not generally, however, so large as on
Kenogamissee Lake, although large enough to be quite merchantable, were it only conveni-
ently situated in respect of markets. Tluj soil here is, as stated elsewhere, light and
sandy.

Pursuing our journey southward, about nine miles from the Post brought us to the
end of Lake Mattagami. From thence a portage one and a half miles in length led us to
a small Lake;, ending at another portage nearly half a mile long. Crossing this we came
to a lake nearly four miles in length. Arrived at the southern extremity of this lake,
another portage, half a mile in length, had to be made. This portage terminated at a lake
six miles across, called Round Lake. From this lake a portage, nearly two miles in
length, was again necessary. We tlien found ourselves beside a low, marshy lake, through
which and a little creek we worked our way with some difficulty for three-quarters of a
mile, to a beaver dam. From this another portage, one mile long, the fifth since we left
the post, brought us to the Mattagami River, which we had not seen since we entered
Lake Mattagami, sixteen miles below Matawagamingue Post. Our course thus far has
been on the whole nearly south. We might have arrived at this same point by ascend-
ing the river itself, whicli enters Lake Mattagami some four miles or so south-west of the
Company's Post. It is said, however, to be not only much longer but much more diffi-
cult. The distance by the route we pursued is, I think, about twenty-six miles.
The ascent in this stretch is roughly estimated at 250 feet. The stream, in its course from
this point to the lake, must be joined by some one or more large tributaries, as the
quantity of water is very small compared with that which flows from Lake Mattagami.

We now ascended this stream for several liours in a westerly direction. It runs
thi-ough a marsh and is very crooked. About seven miles on this course brought us to
a ridge of rock and rapids, where another, the sixth portage, was necessary. The rise here
is at least thirty, or perhaps forty feet. Still ascending the river, our course was now
south-westerly for about six miles, in which distance we made another portage (the seventh).
The rise here was about twenty-five feet. We now entered and traversed Lake A-jau-ne-
gam-ing, the length of which is about seven miles, and breadth from a quarter of a mile
to a mile. The cour.se or bearing of the longer axis is nearly due south. Two short por-
tages and a like number of little lakes or ponds, covering in all a little over a mile and a
half, running south from the southern extremity of Lake A-jau-ne-gaming, brought us to
the tenth or Height of Land Portage, on which is the summit or watershed. Of the two
little ponds at either end of this portage, on nearly tho same level and not more than 500
yards apart, the waters of the one flow northwards down the Mattagami and Moose
Rivers into the far distant Hudson's Bay, and those of the other find their way down the
Monabing, Vermilion, and Spanish Rivers, of which this little pond is the fountain head,
into Lake Huron. This watershed is, I think, rather higher than that between the head-
waters of tiie Missisagua and Ahkuckootish Rivers, being probably 1550 or 1600 feet
above the level of the sea, or say about 1000 feet above Lake Huron.

With tho exception of tho low, Hwainpy and marnhy ground, and thoRO drior ridges
that had been overrun hy recent tirps, red and white pine were Been throughout this
stretch in considerahh) nunihers. Tiiey were plentiful arul Reeniingly of good nize and
quality on the two first lakes and portages passed over after wo left Lake Mattaganii.
On tlie next two lakea tliero were comparativf^ly few red or white pine, the shores being
low and swampy. On Lake A-jau-ne-gani-ing again there is good pine, particularly to-
waril the south end. 1 was told hy the Lidians that on a lake situated a littiti to the
east, the pine is very good, and I observed good pine of both varieties in considerable
numbers between Ijako A-jau-ne-gam-ii\g ajid the watershed on Height of Tjand.

In some parts of this country Hanksian piiK! displaces the more valuable red and
white pine. The victory in the strtJggle for existence rests here, as (dse where in the ani-
mate world, with those species or varieties of trees wliicli, of all conipetitois, jjossess, on
the whole, the most perfect adaptation to the cliuiate, soil, and other inexorabh; contlitions
of growth. Tho fact that some particular plant or tree occupies exclusively a certain area
of country, proves it to be more perfectly adapted to the essential conditions of existence
presently prevailing in that part of the country, thuii any other plant or tree with which
it is naturally, so to speal:, brought into competition. But it proves no more than that.
Re. novo' this tree or plant, and some other tree or plant, the next in tho order of fitness,
will take its place, and so on through a long series probably, of trees and plants, all of
which are more or less perfectly adapt<'d to tho conditions of existence, but all of which
are not equally well adapted. The distribution of plants and animals is far from being a
matter of chance, but is the result of laws riMpiiring at least a certain degree of fitness if
not perfect adaptation. So delicate and fine is Nature's instrument, the "balance" by
which this fitness is weighed and determined, that it may be turned either one way or tho
other by the smallest inipuls<>, causes frequently so obscure or minute as to bo almost, if
not altogether imperceptible to us. The most trifling difference in the composition, tho
wetness, dryness, hardness, softness, coarseness, firmness, or even in the colour of the
soil, the presence of some insignificant parasitic plant or insect, the absence or presence
of some othcir insect, bird or animal necessary for the* protection of some plants or trees
against tho ravages o parasites, or for tho dissemination of their seeds. These and such-
like influences determine alike the nature of the forest and its inhabitants.

From this, I think, the inference is perfectly legitimate that whereas the existence
of healthy, well-grown n-d and white pine tre(;s in certain portions of this territory is
conclusive evidence of the suitability of the climate, soil, and other conditions within such
areas, their absence, elsewhere, is no proof whatever of the absolute unfitness of such
other areas of country, possessing a like climate and soil, to grow these valuable trees,
but simply, that temporarily at least, the areas in question are a little better adanted to
' the growth of some oth(;r plant or tree, and hence naturally such other plant or tree has
taken the place of the pine. But the conditions which constitute the fitness of a territory
to grow many kinds of trees, and yet give the supremacy to one, are not unchangeable.
On the contrary they can be shown to be constantly, though in many cases slowly changing,
and with .such, corresponding changes must take place in our forests.

But some of the conditions may be suddenly altered, and that to such an extent as en-
tirely to change the whole face of tho country for several generations. We will take
for instance " fire," one of the most potent of all natural agents in the accomplishment of
such sudden changes, and we find that in the territory claimed by Ontario on both sides
the Height of Land, thousands of square miles, in times past chiefly, if not entirely
covered with splendid forests of pine, have within the present century been over-run by
fire. These tires destroyed much, and in some cases all the pine timber, and with it more
or less of the soil. I have no doubt that over large areas ev( n the seed perished. As
a result of these altered conditions, quick-growing but comparatively short-lived trees,
and those whose seeds are capable of being brought from a distance by the wind or by
birds, have Vjeen the first to spring up and gain pos.se.ssion of the soil. Thus in passing
through this part of the territory we frequently see nothing for miles but aspen, poplar,
white birch, alder, willows, and such like, where fine large pine trees once flourished, and
will, in my opinion, undoubtedly grow again.

I have in- the course of former explorations found pine growing at the lower or

DHn drier ridgcR
lirnuglioiit this
good hIzc nnd
iko Mftttaganii.
hn HhorcH h»'iiig
particularly to-
il littln to tlie
in considoralde
T/and.

diial)lo rod and
horw in the ani-
oi'H, jioKSPsa, on
ral)l«! conditioMH
y a cortain area
onH of existence
tree with which
more than that,
order of titneHS,
id plaiitH, all of
mt all of which
far from heing a
;ree of fitness if
> "balance" by
r one way or the
to be almost, if
imposition, the

colour of the
mce or presence
( plants or trees
Thi'se and such-

.H.

as tlio existence
this territory is
ions within such
nfitness of such
9 valuable trees,
)etter adanted to
plant or tree has
CSS of a territory
»t uncliangeable.
slowly changing,

1 an extent as en-
We will take

complishment of
io on both sides
r, if not entirely
jeen over-run by
and with it more
fd perished. As
short-lived trees,
the wind or by
Thus in passing
)ut aspen, poplar,
se flourished, and

' at the lower or

north-weHtern tnd of Lake Abittibi to the east — and at the lower or nartheustern ex-
tremity of Brunswick Lake on tiie west. This year it was mtt with both on the Ah-kuc-
koo-tish Uivi>r and the MaLtagami Uiver, nearly as far north ; and I feel convinc«'d that in
all the territory lying to the south of the forty-ninth parallol nul and white pine will not
only grow but grow well. If I am correct in this opinion, the area of the pinn growing
region north of thti Height of Laml and oast of the eighty-fourth im-ridian Is not less than
twelve thousand squaro miles. Making (ivery allowance, therefore, for the surface covered
by lakes, swamps and marshes, such a vast public domain oven for ito forests alone cannot
fail to prove of very groat value to our Province.

North of the forty-ninth parallel, large spruce may be seen scattered along tlie batiks
of the rivers all the way nearly to James' I5,iy. But the larger trees are confined to a
narrow })elt, and wliile they will bo vaiual)le in the future for local purpo.ses, I do not
think they are of much economic importance at present. Owing to the fact that
north of the forty-ninth parallel the land, a f<!w hundred yards only from the rivers
is generally covered with sphagnum moss and peat, which increases in depth as wo nfci^do
from the bank, nine-tenths of the spruce and tamarac are small and utterly
worthless for any purpose that I am aware of, unless it might be for coal pit props.

But thert! are very large (juantities of aspen which, cannot fail I believe to prov," of con-
siderable value when the territory is opened up, for the manufacture of paper. On tlie
lower part of tlie JNTattaganii f have counttnl as many as thirty aspen trees running
from twenty inches to forty-two inches in circumference, with a circle twenty yards
in diameter. The aspen is generally found on the best land, and occasionally at-
tains a circumference of fifty or oven sixty inches. Cedar and tamarac of a siz(i suitable
for railway ties will be afforded in largo (juantitios by the southern part of th(! territory,
and should, I think form an item in estimating its future value The balsam
attain;, a good size and is found scattered in considerable numbers throughout nearly
the whole t( ritory. White birch, or what Dr. Boll more properly ciUls canoe-
birch, also grows everywhere on suitable soils, but is not so largo in the northern as in
the southern part of t^ci territory.

Banksian pine, which I have hitherto called pitch or rough-barked pine, grows
further north than either white or red pine, and also upon poorer ground. It is found
principally in that part of the territory south of the fiftieth parallel, and although a
few isolated trees or patches may be met with further north, I think this may be
fairly assumed to be its limit in the region lying to to the east of the Missinaibi River.
West of i,nv. Missinaibi, the growth not only of Banksian pine, but of red and white
pine extends, I have no doubt, considerably further north. When ascending the
Albany River a few Banksian pine were seen within one hundred miles of the Factory, at
the mouth of the river. But strangely enough not another tree was mot with in the next
hundred miles, or until we reached Marten's Falls, latitude 51° 30', after which it was
quite common. Southward it extends all the ^y■ay to Lake Huron. It does not generally
exceed throe or at most four feet in circuiiiforenco. On an area so extensive, there must be in
the aggregate a prodigious quantity of this timber. Although inferior to our hard woods,
or even to tamarac, it forms, when dry, a superior fuel to either white or red pine, spruce,
balsam or poplar. It is not worth much for any other purpose that I know of, but as it
is capable of atrording a largo amount of resin one would think it might become valuable,
possibly very valuable, some time or other.

In descending from the Height of Land to Lake Huron my route led me through
unexplored territory lying north of the region which has boon partly or wholly surveyed
and divided into timber limits. It may not bo amiss therefore to say a few words in re-
ference to the " timber resources" of the Province; south of the Height of Land, as any
information however scanty on that subject is of importance, and can hardly fail to bo
interestiiiit in view of the largo revenue derived from that source.

The Height of Land Portage terminated, as already observed, at a little pond not more
than one hundred yards across. From this a short portage (the tirst south of the Avatershed)
brought us to the north end of a narrow lake, with good white pine on both sides. It proved
to be about two miles long. Another portage, about one-third of a mile in length, took us to
the small stream which flows from this lake. Following this for some three hundred

"If

liili

yards, another portage about a quarter of a mile in length was rendered necessary by beaver
dams and other obstructions. Embarkinsr again on the same stream a like direction
brought us to a narrow lake two miles in length on a southerly course. Here also tliere is a
good sprinkling of white pine. Near the southern e.Ktremity we ascended a shallow tribu-
tary for four or five hundred yards, then made a portage to the left about two hundred
yards to a small pond or lake. Crossing this, a very small creek led in a short distance to
another and still smaller pond surrounded by muskeg and a cranberry marsh. Another
portage one hundred and (ifty yards or so in length aow brought us to the upper or nortli end
a fine Lirgi lake called Monabing. The route from the Height of Land to this point runs
nearly south, and '.he fall is inconsiderable. The higher and drier ridges sujjport, where
not burnt, a good growth of Avhite pine.

Monabing is from twenty-five to thirty miles in length in a north and south direction.
Its average width may be two or three miles. Bush tires have destroyed a great deal of
valuable timber on both sides of this lake which is as I have mentioned elsewhere the
source of the East Branch of .Spanish River.

Notwithstanding this, there still remains a good quantity of red and white pine on
the unburnt land. I measured a numbc^r of trees and found that the red pine ranged
from forty to sixty inches and the white pine from forty eight to one hundred and eight
incli in circumference. The out-let of this lake i^ at the south-eastern extremity and ia
called ^fonabing liiver. It is a very crooked stream but the bends are short and alter-
nately east and west of south. This last is the true bearing or course of the valley or
trough, and down it the river descends with a strong current and frequent falls and rapids
for some thirty miles. It taen enters on a comparatively flat country, the current is
more moderate and course very serpjntine for upwards of ten miles, when it opens out
into Vermilion Lake.

The country on both sides of the River Monabing has been covered with a fine growth
of pine, and notwithstanding the destructive elFects of bush fires there is still a good deal
of valuable timber of both kinds left in this section of the Province, which will be avail-
able at no distant day. The country bordering on Vermilion Lak.?, and the river below
so far as I followed it, appears to have been completely burnt over and the timber de-
stroyed, but as we have now entered surveyed territory further remarks are unnecessary.

I am not aware that any explorations or surveys have been made for the Provincial
Government north of the forty-seventh parallel of latitude, unless it be Messrs. Salter's
and Sinclair's line before referred to, and this is near the forty-eighth parallel, and for
the most part north of the Height of Land. There is, however, a large tract of
country, partly in the District of Algoma and partly in the District of Nipissing, of which
comparatively little is known. It is situated between the eightieth and eighty-fourth
meridians of longitude and for the most part between the forty -seventh and forty-eiglith
parallels of latitude, and embraces probably eight thousand square miles of land. This
belt lies adjacent to, and immediately to the south of, that which is the subject of this and
previous reports. Having had occasion to cross this country at several points on my
voyages to and from the north, I have had a better opportunity perhaps than any other
provincial officer of forming an opinion in regard to its value and resources in respect of
its timber. To this opinion, whatever it may be worth, the Government is justly en-
titled. I may premise what I have to say on the subject with the remark tliat the two
factors which chiefly govern the distribution of trees are elinv^te and soil. Now as re-
gards the climate of this section of country, there can be noduubt whatever that it is alto-
gether favourable to the growth of pine over the whole of the region in question. I have
shown in this and previous reports that large white pine from eight to twelve feet in cir-
cumference, are to be seen growing north of the Height of Land to the forty-ninth paral-
lel, or from seventy to a hundred miles north of any part of the district now under consid-
eration. As regards the soil, that too, with trifling exceptions, is, I believe, of a character
entirely favourable to the growth of red or white pine. The soil of by far the greater
portion of this region, particularly on the ridges, consists for the most part of the sands
(frequently more or less argillaceous), gravels and boulders of the drift-period or forma-
tion. Often a yellowish or brownish sandy loam, and more or less mixed throughout this,
stones and bould' rs of all sizes. In this soil, however stony it njay be, pine obtains

^ |l| ^a | mB | i iiii «|^^

sary by 1)eaver
like (lirection
also there is a
sliallow tribu-
: two hundred
ort distance to
-sli. Another
iv or north end
ihis point runs
upport, where

out] I direction,
great deal of
(3lst!where the

white pine on
id pine ranged
Ired and eight
:tr(Mnity and is
hort and alter-
: the valley or
alls and rapids
the current is
1 it opens out

h a fine growth
,ill a good deal

will be avail-
he river below
;he timber de-
e unnecessary,
the Provincial
[ossrs. Salter's
.rallel, and for

large tract of
issing, of which
. eighty-fourth
d forfcy-eiglith
of land. This
ject of this and
points on my
lan any other
i in respect of
; is justly en-
£ that the two
Now as re-

that it is alto-
estion. I have

ve feet in cir-
ty-ninth paral-
• under consid-
of a character
ar the greater
■t of the sands
riod or forma-
iroughout this,
, pine obtains

what is primarily and absolutely indispensable to its growth and existence, namely, a firm
hold for its roots. Without this the pine, more particularly tlie white pine, cannot pos-
sibly arrive at maturity or attain a large size, for the height it reaches to and the surface
it exposes to the wind are such that it must otherwise inevitably be blown down and thus
perish. I would say, judging from my own experience, that more than three-fourths of
all the pine in the Province grows on the not greatly altered soils of the drift or boulder
formation, that it is in fact the soil of all others most favourable to the existence of
pineries.

Having thus shown that both soil and climate are well suited to the growth of
this valuable tree, I may now add that the timber itself found growing in this district
wherever I have been, fully substantiates this opinion. On ridges that have escaped the
bush lires I liavo measured many white pine trees in this region which were from six feet
to ten feet in circumference, seemingly sound and good, and as many in some places as
ten or fifteen such trees per acre. The si^e of the red pine, of which in some sections
there are considerable numbers, runs from thirty to fifty inches, altliough sixty inches
circumference is by no means uncommon. Even on the burnt land the remains in many
instances clearly prove that the original forest, before it was destroyed, consisted largely
if not entirely of pine. To estimate the relative proportions of burnt and unburnt land
with any approach to accuracy is quite impossible without a thorough examination of tho
whole region. I am of opinion, however, that as seen on the routes I have travelled, from
one-half to three-fourths of the timber has been burnt within the last fifty years. As ob-
served elsewhere, however, I think it exceedingly probable that in those sections which are
the most remote from ordinarily travelled routes, (and of which the least is known) will
be found a iarger proportion of unburnt land and consequently a greater quantity of pine.
But even if this expectation should not bo realizeu, ^he aggregate quantity of pine still re-
maining in this extensive territory, embracing as I said before probably eight thousand
square miles, is undoubtedly very large, and however scattered or remote, will in view of
the opening up of the country by moans of railways, and the increasing demand for pine,
prove of great value to the Province. I must not, however, be understood as con-
tending that the finest pine, either in respect of size or quality, are now growing or may
ever be expected to grow in the extreme northern part of the territory I have described
as " the pine growing region." Climate undoubtedly draws the line somewhere, beyond
which neitluir red nor white pine can grow, and as we approach this line, whether it be
when ascending to greater heights, or in travelling northward, common sense would lead
us to expect some falling ofl:' in the size and quality of the trees before they disappeared
altogether. Such undoubtedly would bo the case but for another factor, also before re-
ferred to, which if not so obvious as soil and climate yet plays a very important part in
thi distribution of our forest trees — and that is the competition or rivalry of other trees
or plants struggling to obtain possesion of the soil.

This factor exercises, I believe, a powerful influence in respect of the distribution
of p.'ne. Compelled to struggle for the possession of the soil with spruce, bank-
sian pine and other trees, no sooner does the vigour of the red and white pine begin to
be in tho l(;ast impaired by adverse conditions, such as the increasing coldness of the

losing

eir

climate or some slight change in the soil, than chey are in danger of
supremacy, and succumb long before the extreme limit imposed by climate and soil alone
is reached. Hence it is, I think, that in the territory north of the Height of Land, we
find white pine from six to eight feet and red pine from four to six feet in circumfer-
ence, apparently sound and healthy, a 4'ew miles south only of where they disappear alto-
gether.

It is more than probable that although the climate for possibly one hundred miles
north of the 49th parallel, and in many places the soil also might have adnntted of the
growth of inferior red and white pine, yet at this particular point the loss of vitality and
vigour was such us to decide the struggle in favour of spruce, tamarac, bank.sian pine,
balsam, aspen, birch, poplar, or other competitors, and by one or other of these the red
and white pine have been at once supplanted.

It is only right to mention in wliat I wish to be a fair report on tho value and re-
sources of this territory, that the pine north of the Height of Land, notwithstanding its

large size and healthy appearance, shows signs of some such deterioration as is here
alluded to. For instance, although the girth of tiie pine at the butt-end, say three or
four feet from the ground, is large, the height or stature of the trees is considerably less
and the taper as a necessary consequenci! more rapid, than in the well sheltered
valleys and ravines soutli of the Height of Land. Again, I think tliere is in the north a
greater proportion of the large trees more or less hollow or unsound at the butt-end.
And, thirdly, what are called " shakes" are said to be more connnon in the boards orlum-
ber manufactured from this pine. I make the last statement on the authority of Mr.
E.ae, the ofHcer in- charge of Matawagamingue Post, and it may apply only to the
pine timber growing in that section of the country. The other facts have fallen under
my own observation.

Mineral Eesources.

The explorations of Dr. Bell, Assistant Director of the Geological Survey of Can-
ada, and myself, go far to prove that this territory is of very considerable value and
importance for its minerals alone.

In previous reports attention has been called to the deposits of lignite or brown
coal, iron ore, kaolin or cliina-clay, and of gypsum or plaster of Paris ; also to the inex-
haustible beds of peat in this territory.

In addition to the above, I have discovered this season both galena or lead ore,
and copper, together with abundance of tine yellow and brown ochres. I also succeeded
in finding a bed of lignite coal on the Mattagami, or south branch of the Moose River, on
which hitherto no coal had been found in place.

I met with the lead and copper ores on the north-west side of the eastern arm of Lake
Matagama,in the vicinity of Flying Post. The quantity of ore in the veins, where exposed, is
not such as would justify, in my opinion, expensive mining operations, but sufficient taken
in connection with the size and general character of the veins to warrant careful explora-
tion, in the reasonable expectation that larger deposits of these useful and valuable metals
may l)e discovered. It is said that one of the parties engaged on the survey for the Cana-
dian Pacific Kail way, discovered silver ore in the neighborhood of Flying Post. I think
it likely, however, that the ore thus found was " lead ore," rather than silver. Galena, the
most common ore of lead, almost invariably contains more or less silver, sometimes in
quantities barely sufficient to pay for extraction, and at others so rich as to entitle the ore
to be classed as " silver-lead." The rock or formation in which these veins occur belongs
to the Huronian system.

The yellow ochre crops out on the eastern bank of the Mattagami River, about a
quarter of a mile below the north end of Long Portage, and at the same place may be
seen a line white clay, strongly resembling the china-clay already referred to as having
been found by me two years ago on the Missinaibi Branch of Moose River. My attention
was first drawn to this ochre by the Rev. Mr. Saunders, of Matawagamingue. I after-
wards learned that Mr. Rae, the officer in charge of that post, was aware of this deposit
also, and that he liad even tried some of it as a paint, and found that it answered for that
purpose remarknbly well. Another deposit of yellow-ochre crops out on the west side of
the river, about half a mile below the upper end of the Grand Rapid. This is if possible
of a still finer quality than that below the Long Portage. Here again this ochre is asso-
ciated with the fine white clay before alluded to. Brown ochre occurs abundantly along
with the iron ores which are seen in such large quantities at the Grand Rapid. Both
t^ese ochres may be valuable as paints.

The

lignite or

brown coal occurs on the west side of the Mattagami River about five

miles below Long Portage. It is only exposed in the banks for a few yards in length,
and the bed was so nearly covered with water when I found it that the thickness could
not be ascertained. The quality of the specimens obtained was good considering that they
came from the out-crop. If there should prove to be a large quantity of this coal here it
can hardly fail to become valuable in connection with the deposits of iron ore at
Grand Rapid, only a few miles lower down.

I have no doubt whatever as soon as this territory is rendered accessible to practical
explorers and means of transportation provided, that other interesting and valuable dis-

1 aa is here
say three or
iderably less
cU sheltered
, the north a
ihe butt-end.
oards or lura-
)rity of Mr.
only to the
fallen under

vey of Can-
e value and

ite or brown
to the inex-

or lead ore,
so succeeded
3se River, on

I arm of Lake
re exposed, is
ffiuient taken
eful explora-
luible metals
or the Cana-
)st. I think
Galena, the
ouietimes in
ititle the ore
3ccur belongs

'er, about a
place may be
o as having
My attention
le. I after-

this deposit
Bred for that

west side of
is if possible
)chre is asso-
dantly along
ipid. Both

er about five

in length,

ckness could

iiig that they

coal here it

iron ore at

to practical
valuable dis-

coveries will be made, that mines and smelting works will be established, and that the
minerals of the territory will not be the least important of its products.

Dr. Bel), speaking of the mineral resources of Hudson's Bay, says — Report of Progress
for 1879-80, see p. 32; "Minerals may, however, become in the future the greatest of the
resources of the shores of Hud.son's Bay. Little direct search has been made, as yet, for
the valuable miuei'als of these regions. In 1875 I found a large deposit of rich iron-
stone on the Mattagami (see Geological Survey Reports for that year). In 1877 inex-
haustible supplies of good manganiferous iron ore were discovered on the islands near the
East-main coast, and promising quantities of galena around Richmond Gulf, and also near
Little Whale River, where a small amount had previously been known to exist. Traces
of gold, silver, molybdenum and copper were also noted on the Eastmain coast. Lignite
was met with on the Missinaibi, gypsum on the Moose, and petroleum-bearing limestone
on the AbittibiRiver. Small quantities of anthracite, and various ornamental stones and
some rare miaerals were collected in the course of our explorations around the bay. Soap-
stone is abundant not far from Mosquito Bay on the east side, and iron pyrites between
Churchill and Marble Island on the west. Good building stones, clays and limestones
exist on both sides of the bay. A cargo of mica is said to have been taken from Chester-
field inlet to New York, and valuable deposits of plumbago are reported to occur on the
north side of Hudson's strait. Some capitalists have applied to the Government for
mining rights in the latter region."

In my Report for 1880, p. XI, et seq., the importance to the Province of an abundant
supply of cheap fuel was discussed at considerable length. It was shown that wood
must, necessarily, become scarcer and dearer ; that we are already obliged to import
very large quantities of coal, both for domestic use and for manufactures ; that the
distance from the coal-mines of Nova Scotia was such as to afford no reasonable prospect
of our being able to obtain coals from that quarter at other than exhorbitant prices ;
that we were, in fact, dependent upon the United States for our supply of one of the
most indispensible necessaries of life. I might have added that in such a climate as
ours, dependence on a foreign power for fuel, places us almost entirely at their mercy.

It was shown, however, that in the so-called disputed territory there is an almost
unlimited quantity of fuel, partly in the shape of seams of lignite, or brown coal, but
chiefly in the form of great beds of genuine peat.

I quoted from various authorities, but more particularly from Dr. Sterry Hunt,
facts which conclusively prove the importance and value of peat as a fuel, even when it
contains as much as forty-five per cent, of water. It was further shown that with cheap
transportation by rail or otherwise, charcoal made from compressed peat might be
delivered in our cities at prices that would render the inhabitants in a great measure
independent of foreign supplies of fuel, at least for domestic purposes.

In last year's Report, p. 11, I again reverted to this important subject, showing
that even at the lowest estimate the heat-giving power of the peat-beds in this territory
is so enormous as to be almost incredible, and expressing an opinion, that before another
fifty years have elapsed, this bountiful provision of fuel will, by means of electricity or
otherwise, be made to contribute in no small measure to the welfare and com'^ort of the
people of this Province. Since I thus wrote, some progress has been made in this
uirection. Experiments on a large scale are, I believe, being conducted both in Europe
and America, the object of which is to substitute electro-magnetic engines for ordinary
locomotives on railways. I am not conversant with the details, but as I understand it,
the electric fluid is generated or supplied by stationary engines at each end of the line,
if short, but at stated intervals if the road is long. The engines that generate the
electricity, which in turn propels the train, may themselves be worked by steam or
water. These stationary engines too, may be many miles distant, not only from the
train and its load, but, if desirable, from the railway itself. All, I believe, that is really
essential being, that the electricity thus generated shall be conducted without material
loss or waste by means of wires or otherwise, from the stationary engine to the electro-
magnetic engine which accompanies the train ; or the electricity may be stored according
to M. Faure's metliod, on the point of being patented and introduced into Canada.

If this system be at all successful, in an economic point of view, with stationary

engines worked by steam, the problem of the utilization of the vast stores of peat and lignite
in this territory is, I am persuaded, in a fair way to be solved. The Height of Laud is
an extens-ive plateau, and not a sharply defined ridge. This plateau is full of lakes
each giving birth to streams of water which, uniting, §oon become rivers. Some of these
^ow to the north and others to the south. This plateau is from a thousand to twelve
hundred feet above the level of the sea; and from five to seven hundred feet above
Lake Huron. Hence the rivers for many miles on both sides the Height of Land
offer a succession of rapids and falls. These afford water powers, the equal of which
cannot, in my opinion, be found on this continent, if in any other part of the world.
The lakes by which the streams and rivers are fed constitute, in fact, great natural
reservoirs, by means of which a constant and steady supply of water, at all seaso)is, can
be easily ensured. It is obvious, therefore, that if this method of propelling or drawing
trains should prove successful, the jnotive power necessary to transport fuel from the
north to our very doors would cost literally nothing but the machinery required to
apply it to that purpose. Such a reduction in the cost of transportation as this pre-
supposes, would probably enable us to obtain abundant and cheap fuel for generations to
come from our own territory.

Eve idinitting that such a consummation of our hopes is only a possihUity, yet
in a mat of such vital importance the Province should relinquish no claim, much less
give up its right to this disputed territory.

Other Resources.

When the territory is opened up, other resources will no doubt be found well worthy
of the attention of our people. Some of these, such as the porpoise, seal and salmon fish-
eries, might be said to be more properly resources of Hudson's Bay itself, than of the
territory claimed by us. This is quite true,^ but it is not less true, that if the Province
of Ontario embraces (as under the award of the arbitrators it does embrace) a consider-
able frontage on the coast, our people will participate directly and to a much greater ex-
tent in the benefits and advantages of the trade, commerce and resources generally, of
this great inland sea than they can possibly expect to do if deprived of that frontage and
the frontier arbitrarily fixed some hundred miles or more distant from the coast. Hence
our Province has a very material interest in the resources of Hudson's Bay.

As my own explorations have been necessarily confined almost entirely to our own
territory, the following quotation from Dr. Bell's report before referred to, will be more
to the point than anything I might be able to state from hearsay.

In Report of Progress for 1879-80, pp C. 31 and 32, Dr. Bell says, "The resources of
Hudson's Bay and the country immediately around it are varied and numerous, although,
as yet, few of them are at all developed. The fur trade is the principal and best known
business which has hitherto been carried on in these regions ; but a considerable amount
of oil, derived from the larger whales, the porpoises, walruses, white bears, and various
species of seals which frequent the northern part of the bay, has been carried to New
England, and small quantities, principally of porpoise and seal oil, have from time to time
been taken to London by the Hudson Bay Company. The trade in oil might be greatly
extended in these quarters. Other articles have been exported from the bay, but hitherto
only in trifling quantities. They embrace whalebone, feathers, quills, castorine, lead ore,
sawn lumber, ivory, tallow, isinglass, and skins of seals and porpoises. The fisheries,
properly speaking, of Hudson's Bay, have not been investigated. Both the Indians and
Eskimo find a variety of fish for their own use, and fine .salmon abound in the rivers of
Hudson's Strait. From one or two of them a considerable number of barrels, in a salted
condition, are exported every year by the Hudson's Bay Company. Water-fowl are very
numerous on both sides of the bay, and larger game oii the barren grounds in the north-
ern parts ; so that the natives, with prudence, may always have a plentiful supply of
food. But perhaps the most important of the undeveloped resources of the country
around the bay are its soil, timber, and minerals. To the south and south-west of Jamea'
Bay, in the latitude of Devonshire and Cornwall, there is a large tract in which much of
the land is good, and the climate sufficiently favourable for the successful prosecution of
stock and dairy farming. A strip of country along the east side of James' Bay may also

'I i

it and lignite
lit of Land is
full of lakes
!ome of these
nd to twelve
id feet above
('lit of Land
ual of which
if the world,
great natural
{ seasons, can
g or drawing
uel from the
required to
a as this pre-
;enerations to

ossibility, yet
im, much less

i well worthy
d salmon fish-
f, than of the
: the Province
;e) a consider-
ch greater ex-
generally, of
frontage and
oast. Hence

y to our own
will be more

e resources of

3US, although,

d best known

rable amount

and various

rried to New

time to time

;ht be greatly

but hitherto

rine, lead ore,

The tisheries,

Lidians and

the rivers of

s, in a salted

fowl are very

in the north-

ful supply of

the country

st of James'

hich much of

)rosecution of

Bay may also

prove available for these purposes. To the south-west of the wide part of the bay, the
country is well wooded, and, altogether little or no rock comes to the surface over an im-
mense ai-ea, still neither the soil nor the climate are suitable for carrying on agriculture
as a principal occupation until we have passed over more than half the distance to lake
Winnipeg. This region, however, appears to offer no engineering difficulties to the con-
struction of a railway from the sea-coast to the better country beyond, and this, at pre-
sent, is the most important point in regard to it. Some of the timber found in the coun-
try that sends its waters into James' Bay may prove to be of value for export. Among
the kinds which it produces may be mentioned white, red and pitch pine, black and white
spruce, balsam, larch, white cedar and white birch. The numerous rivers which converge
towards the head of James' Bay offer facilities for " driving" timber to points at which it
may be shipped by sea-going vessels."

Development and Settlement.

The efforts made to bring immigrants into the country from any quarter of the
globe, without the least discrimination in regard to race, moral fitness, or otherwise, is, 1
fear, a mistaken policy ; but one, the result of which may not become immediately ap-
parent.

As regards this territory, the settlers must be in my humble opinion, chiefly Canadian
and American, or at all eveats old-country men, who have served an apprenticeship in
Canada or the United States. Men who know Avhat the resources of a country are, and
how to take advantage of them. Inexperienced immigrants from Europe will not
succeed.

It may bo said, and very truly said, that native Canadians or Americans will not
settle in this territory, at least in any considerable numbers, nor immediately ; in fact so
long as they can obtain better land and a finer climate elsewhere. If not, we have only
to wait a while, and they will go by and by without much begging. In the meantime,
settlement is impossible until the territory is accessible either from the north or the south.

As is well known the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company have conducted their fur-
trade in this territory for two hundred years by means of the ocean, and the Hudson's
Bay, their ships making annual voyages from London to York Factory and Moose Fac-
tory, and returning again the same season. The importance of this ocean route, to and
from Europe was pointed out in my first report, p. 41, 42, to which I may refer : A great
deal of discussion has taken place both before and since on the subject, and some two years
ago Dr. Bell, of the Geological Survey, made the voyage from York Factory, through Hud-
son's Straits to London, England, in order to be able to form an opinion on the feasibility
of this route, not only for the traffic which the territory immediately bordering on the
bay itself may afford, but for the produce of the North-west. Dr. Bell treats this sub-
ject very fully and with his usual ability in the report already referred to. The estab
lishment of a line or lines of steamers to Europe, whether from York Factory or Churchill,
could not fail greatly to encourage settlement and promote the development of all the re-
sources of the country bordering on Hudson's and James' Bays, and I therefore feel
quite justified in quoting at length from this interesting report, in which on p. 32, C.
et seq., Dr. Bell says : " Situated in the heart of North America, and possessing a sea-port
in the very centre of the continent, one thousand five hundred miles nearer than Quebec
to the fertile lands of the North-West Territories, Hudson's Bay now begins to possess a
new interest, not only to Canadians, but also to the people of Great Britain, from the fact
that the future highway between the great North-West of the Dominion and Europe may
pass through it. The possibility of this route being adopted for trade is not a new idea.
It has been frequently suggested by far-seeing men in past years, and occasionally referred
to in newspapers. In 1848 the then Lieutenant M. H. Synge, in his work on Canada,
wrote : ' A ship annually arrives at Fort York for the service of the Hudson's Bay
Company, who can tell how many may eventually do sol' The journal of the Statistical
Society of London, for March, 1864, contains a paper by H. Y. Hind, on 'The Com-
mercial Progress and Resources of Central British America,' in which the writer says :
' It is more than probable that whenever the necessity arises, the communication between

Winnipeg and Hudson's Bay, and thence to the Atlantic, by the aid of steamers, will be
made easy and speedy for at least three months in the year.' In 1876, Mr. Selwyn
brought the subject officially before the members of the Canadian Government, and re-
commended that surveys be made of Hudson's Bay and Strait. In 1878, Colonel Dennis
published a pamphlet, accompanied by a valuable map, in relation to it.

"The report of the Minister of the Interior, for 1878, contains an appendix by the
writer on the practicability of building a railway from Lake Winnipeg to Hudson's Bay.
During the session of 1878-79, and again the following year the Honourable Thomas Ryan,
a gentleman of great enterprise, brought the matter under the notice of the Dominion
Senate.

" In 1880 the Parliament of Canada granted charters to two companies for construct-
ing railways and otherwise opening a route for conmierce from the North-West Territories
to Europe, via Hudson's Bay, and during the past year one of them, the Nelson Valley
(Company, caused a survey to be made of a part of the distance between Lake Winnipeg
and the Harbour of Churchill." Their chief engineer has reported the route as far as he
located the line, to be an easy and inexpensive one for a railway. The directors of the
company have again sent an engineering party to the field to carry on the survey during
the present year (1881). This company has also the power of connecting with the Can-
ada Pacific Railway in the Saskatchewan region, but the main line is intended to form a
connecting link between the great system of inland navigation, which centres in Lake
Winnipeg and the sea. If constructed, the Nelson Valley Railway may carry to the sea-
board, not -.Ay the surplus grain and cattle of our own North- West, but also that of
Minnesota and Dakota. Lieutenant-General Sir J. H. Lefroy, President of the Geo-
graphical Section of the British Association, in hie; address at the Swansea meeting (1880)
said : ' Hudson's Bay itself cannot fail, at no distant day, to challenge more attention.
Dr. Bell reports that the land is rising at the rate of five to ten feet in a century, that is,,
possibly an inch a year. Not, however, on this account will the hydographer notice it ;
but because the natural seaports of that vast interior, now thrown open to settlement,
Keewatin, Manitoba, and other provinces unborn, must be sought there. York Fac-
tory, which is nearer Liverpool than New York, has been happily called by Professor H.
Y. Hind, the Archangel of the West. The mouth of the Churchill, however, although
somewhat further north, offers far superior natural advantages, and may more fitly chal-
lenge the title. It will undoubtedly be the future shipping port for the agricultural pro-
ducts of the vast North-West Territory, and the route by which immigrants will enter the
country.' Sir Henry Lefroy, beini: personally well acquainted with Hudson's Bay and
the North- West Territories, may be accepted as good authority on the subject. It has
been shown that the Canadian North-West Territories, embracing hundreds of millions of
acres of fine land, are destined to become the greatest wheat field in the world. The
centre of this immense agricultural region probably lies to the north of the Saskatchewan.
If we look at the map of the northern hemisphere, we shall see at a glance that the
shortest route between these territories and England, is through Hudson's Bay. Mr. Lind-
say Russell, the Surveyor-General, has recently made a close calculation of relative dis-
tances, and finds that even the city of Winnipeg, which is situated in the extreme south-
eastern part of these territories, is at least eight hundred miles nearer to Liverpool by
the Hudson's Bay route than by the St. Lawrence ; while the difference in favour of the
former will be increased continually as we advance northward into the interior.

" If we take a central point of the whole of the agricultural lands of our North-West
Territories, say in the neighbourhood of Lac la Biche, longitude 112° W., latitude 55° N.,
we shall find that the distance from it to the city of Winnipeg is about the same as to
Churchill, on the Hudson's Bay. The distance from the latter to Liverpool is about the
same as from Montrea' to this port ; so that between the above-named centre and Liver-
pool, by the Hudson's Bay route, the whole distance from Winnipeg to Montreal is saved.
This amounts to one thousand two hundred and ninety-one miles by way of Lake Superior,
and one thousand six hundred and ninety-eight miles by the Chicago route. The distance
by way of New York is still greater than by Montreal. The advantages of this route
over all others are numerous, and a few of them may be here referred to. The great
savinjf' in distance represents an important economy in time and money, or in freights and

amers, will be
5, Mr. Selwyn
iment, and re-
;)olonel Dennis

)pendix by the

Hudson's Bay.

Thomas Ryan,

the Dominion

i for construct-
lesi Territories
Nelson Valley
jake Winnipeg
,te as far as he
irectors of the
survey during

with the Can-
ided to form a
sntres in Lake
Try to the sea-
ut also that of
nt of the Geo-
meeting (1880)
nore attention,
entury, that is,.
i,pher notice it ;

to settlement,
re. York Fac-
)y Professor H.
fever, although
more fitly chal-
gricultural pro-
s will enter the
Json'a Bay and
ibject. It has
s of millions of
lie world. The
I Saskatchewan,
glance that the
ay. Mr. Lind-
of relative dis-

extreme south-
to Liverpool by
I favour of the
;erior.

)ur North-West
latitude 55° N.,
the same as to
ool is about the
ntre and Liver-
mtreal is saved.

Lake Superior,

The distance

fes of this route

to. The great

in freights and

passenger rates. If the grain, cattle and other products of the North- West Territories
could reach a European market only through Ontario and Quebec, or by way of New
York, a large proportion of their value would necessarily be consumed by the long land
carriage ; whereas, if they can find an outlet at Churchill or York Factory, there will be
a saving of at least one thousand two hundred and ninty-one miles as compared with
Montreal, and upwards of one thousand seven hundred miles as compared with New York,
and this without increasing the length of the voyage. In eflTect, this will place a great
proportion of the farms of our North- West Territories in as good a position with regard to
sea-port as are those of Ontario west of Toronto, and consequently will greatly increase
the value of every description of farm produce, and therefore of the farms themselves.
Some kinds of produce which could not be sent out of the country at all by the longer
land routes may be profitably exported by the shorter one. Owing to the short land
journey, grain from the Saskatchewan and Peace River regions could be exported by way
of Hudson's Bay the same year in which it is harvested, which could scarcely be hoped
for if sent by way of one of the longer routes. For the transportation of both grain
and fresh meat, as Colonel Dennis has pointed out, the northern route, besides the short-
ening of the distance, would have great advantages over all tho.se to the south, owing to
its cooler and more uniform temperature. Heavy or bulky, goods of all kinds would of
course be imported into the North- West Territory by the shortest land route. In regard
to the export or import of live stock, this independent route will possess a great import-
ance to these territories.

" Hitherto cattle, horses, hogs and sheep, have there enjoyed an immunity from almost
all forms of contagious diseases, and owing to the very healthy nature of the climate for
these animals, it is hoped this state of things will continue. The domestic animals in the
United States and older Canadian Provinces being occasionally afflicted with contagious
diseases, it becomes necessary for European countries to impose restrictions on their impor-
tation.. In the event of an epidemic of this nature existing insome part of these regions,
but not in the North- West Territories, there would be no objection to exporting live stock
from the latter by way of Hudson's Bay. As a route for emigrants from Europe, that by
Hudson's Bay possesses not only the advantages of the short land journey, but the still
more important one, to us, of entirely avoiding the United States and the populous parts
of Canada, in both of which, it is well known, a very serious per centage of the immi-
grants destined for our North-West lands are every year enticed away to settle in the
great republic. An inlet by Hudson's Bay is the only thoroughly independent channel
which can ever be established betNs een Great Britain and the great and valuable British
territories in the interior of North America ; and it is very desirable, on national grounds,
that this route should be opened up. Troops have hitherto been sent to the Red River
settlement, on more than one occasion, by way of Hudson's Bay, while the intervening
country was, as it is yet, in a state of nature. Were a short railway built through this
tract, it would at once become for military purposes an easy connecting link with the
mother country. An impression has long prevailed that Hudson's Bay and Strait
could not be navigated for the ordinary purposes of commerce, on account of ice, but
this idea is perhaps destined to prove chimerical. The occasion for testing the point had
not hitherto arisen, and the fact that these waters have been successfully navigated by or-
dinary sailing vessels for nearly two hundred years, in order to secure the little trade the
country has hitherto afforded, indicates what may be expected from properly equipped
steamships, as soon as the larger business of the future may require their services in this
direction. The conditions of the sea-borne commerce of the North-West in relation to
Hudson's Bay may, after all, turn out to be somewhat similar to those of the east of Can-
ada with reference to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In both cases everything must be done
during the summer. Yet, Hudson's Bay is, of course, open all the year round. A sea
of such vast extent in the latitude of the British Islands would not be expected to freeze
across, and as a matter of fact it does not. The lower St. Lawrence (notwithstanding
its comparative narrowness) is also partly open, even in the middle of winter. But the
difficulty in both cases is the apparent impossibility of getting into harbours. A harbour
such as that of the Churchill on Hudson's Bay, would have the advantage over Quebec
or Montreal of connecting directly with the open sea, and hence in the autumn vessels

would not be liable to be frozen in, as occasionally happens in the St. Lawrence, as for
example in the autumn just passed, also in the autumn of 1870, when the outward bound
shipping got frozen in below Quebec, occasioning a loss, it was said, of over a million of
dollars. Again, in the spring there might be no more uncertainty about entering from
the sea than in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where vexatious delays are not uncommon
after the open season is supposed to have arrived. Some discussion has taken place in
the newspapers as to the length of time during which Hudson's Strait and Bay might be
navigated each year, but there does not seem to be much evidence that the strait is en-
tirely closed at any season, and the bay is always open. The great width and depth of
the strait, and the strength of its tides, probably keep it open all winter. My own ex-
perience and that of many others leads me to believe that the climate generally of Hud-
son's Bay is much better than is popularly supposed. From all that I could learn or
observe, there appears reason to believe that the strait and bay may be navigated and
the land approached by steamships during an average of over four months in each year, or
from the middle of June till near the end of October. The strait and bay might perhaps
be navigated by steam vessels earlier than the middle of June, but nothing would be
gained, except perhaps by whalers, in going out before an open harbour could be reached.
Much has been recorded in favour of the above opinion, from the days of the Danish
Captain, John Monck, who wintered in Churchill two hundred and sixty -one years ago
(1619-20), to the present time, and a good deal of unrecorded evidence which I have col-
lected leads me to the same conclusion. Churchill Harbour does not freeze up until No-
vember, and the sea is open close to it during the whole winter. A record of the princi-
pal phenomena of the seasons at Martin's Falls, on the Albany, extending through a
period of fifty years, shows that the river there is open on an average for fully six months
of the year. In the Appendix will be found a record of the opening and closing of
Haye's River, at York Factory for fifty-two years, which proves it to have an annual aver-
age of six months' open water. The Nelson is open for a longer period, which may amount
to an average of seven months, but no exact record has been kept in regard to this stream.
The tidal portion is said never to set fast, but in winter more or less ice drifts up and
down with nearly every tide, the channel out to sea being clear only after the prevalence
of strong winds off the land. During the winter of 1880-81 the river did not freeze
across at all for some forty miles above tide water. In view of such facts as the fore-
going, the navigation of Hudson's Bay and the approach to land of steamships need not
be despaired off, as far as the length of season is concerned. Even were the time of open
navigation shorter than it is known to be, the very great benefits which Canada generally,
and the North-West Territories in particular, would derive from possessing an outlet in
that direction are sufficient to make it well worth an effort to open it up. The freedom
of Hudson's Strait and Bay from rocks, shoals and other impediments to navigation will
exempt vessels in that (juarter of the globe from the heavy expenses for pilots, light-
houses, etc., which burden shipping to many other American ports. The delays from
drifting ice in the strait which have heretofore occurred to sailing ships, especially of the
old-fashioned type, cannot be fairly cited at all, as to what may be expected to be ac-
complished by well appointed steam vessels. Both shores of Hudson's Strait are dry and
bold, and if observatory stations were placed upon some of the more elevated points on
either side they would command a complete view of its entire surface. By means of sig-
nals or telegraphic communication between these stations in case of the existence of
drifting ice, vessels could be directed what course to follow in order to pass through it at
the easiest part, or to avoid it altogether. It is evident that in proportion as the cost of
transporting farm produce to a foreign market is diminished its home value is correspond-
ingly increased, and with it the value of the land itself, in about the sam'e ratio. Now,
considering the vast extent of the farming lands, to be favourably affected by the open-
ing of the route above referred to, if the value of each acre of it were enhanced in this
way by only seventy or eighty cents, the aggregate increase would amount to more than
a hundred million of dollars. Such a gain as this, together with the great advantages
which, as we have seen, may be derived from the opening of this new ocean route, should
it prove feasible, will, I think, sufficiently show the importance of at least giving it due
consideration. I am indebted to William Armit, Esq., the obliging Secretary of the

irence, as for
atward bound
r a million of
entering from
ot uncommon
:aken place in
Bay might be
le strait is en-
and depth of
My own ex-
rally of Hud-
;ould learn or
navigated and
each year, or
night perhaps
ing would be
id be reached.
)f the Danish
one years ago
ch I have col-
i up until No-
of the princi-
ing through a
ly six months
md closing of
n annual aver-
1 may amount

this stream,
drifts up and
;he prevalence
lid not freeze
;s as the fore-
ihips need not
! time of open
ada generally,
r an outlet in

The freedom
avigation will
• pilots, light-
3 delays from
jecially of the
cted to be ac-
it are dry and
,ted points on
means of sig-

1 existence of
through it at
as the cost of
is correspond-
ratio. Now,
I by the open-
anced in this

to more than
it advantages

route, should
giving it due
jretary of the

Hudson's Bay Company, in London, for the list in the Appendix showing the dates of the
arrivals of the Company's ships at Moose Factory, and of their departure from that point,
and to Mr. Chief Factor Fortescue, for the similar list in reference to York Factory.
They show that very few interruptions have occurred in making the regular annual
voyages to these ports during periods of one hundred and forty-seven and ninety-three
years respectively."

Although the establishment of a line or lines of steamships to ply between England
and Churchill or York Factory, will, if successful, do a great deal towards the develop-
ment of the resources of Hudson's Bay and of the territory on or near the coast,
the central and southern portion of the territory claimed by us can only be opened up,
and its resources fully developed by railways. The period during which the Moose and
Albany Rivers can be navigated is so short, and the navigating itself so bad, that heavy
goods could not be sent inland to any point south of the long portages on the Moose, or
Martin's Falls on the Albany, but at a very heavy cost for freight. During the greater
part of the summer these rivers are too shallow to be navigable by anything but canoes
or flat-bottomed boats of very light draft.

As regards the probability of the territory becoming accessible by railway, I may
say, that it was thought to be at one time all but decided that the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way was to cross the Height of Land on a course about north-nortwest from Lake Nipis-
sing, and pass through the southern part of this territory at no great distance from Ma-
tawagamingue, Flying Post and New Brunswick, so frequently mentioned in this and
former reports. "This route is laid down on the railway maps, and called "Route No. 2,
Report 1874." Last year it was stated that all idea of thus locating the route for the
railway had been abandoned, and that it would be carried along the north shore of Lake
Superior and south of the Height of Land, whatever the cost might be. This spring
it was said that the route along the north shore of Lake Superior had been found to be
all but impracticable, and engineers were sent up the Mississagua River, almost, if not
quite, to the Height of Land, to find a route that way, the object being, as I suppose,
to make the line from Lake Nipissing to Algoma Mills a part of the main line, instead of
only a branch as originally contemplated. The engineers, I was told, were again disa-
pointed in this route also. Finally, when I returned from the north I learned that a
party had ascended the Wahnapit«,e River, as I presume to find a feasible route for the
main trunk line, over the Height of Land, with the intention, most likely, of reaching
and afterwards following " Route No. 2 — Report 1874 " above referred to — a route which
has been, I believe, improved by the subsequent explorations of Messrs. Gamsby, Ram-
say, Poulin and other Canadian Pacific Railway engineers and explorers.

I am of opinion, that if advantage be taken of the glacial troughs or channels (al-
ready alluded to) the Height of Land may be crossed at several points without very
much difficulty. But in order to do this, the line must, I conceive, run with and not across
these ice-formed troughs or channels, until it fairly emerges on the other (north) side,
where at or about the junction of Laurentian and Huronicn groups of rock, I believe it
will be then possible to run the line westward without any such engineering diflJoulties
as are met with on the south side of the watershed. The ice channels at or about the
meridian of the source of Monabing and possibly of the Wahnapitae River also, run nearly
north and south. I am inclined to think that to the westward of this meridian (81° 30')
the bearing of these troughs inclines more and more towards south-west and north-east,
and on the other hand, or eastward, become more and more south-east and north-west.
The idea does not appear to have occurred to the engineei's or explorers of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, that it might be very much better to follow two sides of the triangle,
in order to surmount a serious difficulty of this nature, than rigidly adhere to the
shorter and more direct hypothenuse, which from the physical and geological character
of the country presented most formidable engineering difficulties ; or, if it did occur to
them they were often, I suspect, too much hampered and bound by written instructions, to
venture to make so great a deflection as was in this case necessary. The advantages how-
ever of lighter work, easier grades and a better route would far more than compensate
both the Syndicate and the public for any increase in the length of the railway thus entailed.
Not the least of these advantages would be, that by following this route the railway will

be tho meatiH of developing the reHOurces of this immense territory, the traffic of which will
greatly exceed that which tho north shore of Lake Superior is likely to afford. If the
line however should be located south of the Height of Land, or as a " a lake shore line,"
the settlement of this territory will be delayed indefinitely. Ultimately, however, there
is hardly a doubt that some other company will undertake to make a railway on this
northern route, the effect of which must be to intercept and carry off from tho Canadian
Pacific Railway, not only the whole traffic of this territory, but of the Hudson's Bay
itself, while to tho south it would have formidable competition for the lake shore traffic,
most of which would, in all probability, fall to the share of the steamboats plying on Lake
Superior. With such a competing line of railway to the north and Lake Superior to the
south, I fail to see what local traffic the Canadian Pacific could possibly obtain from its
Lake Superior section, either now or in the far distant future. My own opinion is that
in the interest of all concerned, the main-line of the Canadian Pacific Railway should be
located to the north of the Height of Land, pass north of Lake Nepigon and join the
Thunder Bay branch somewhere between Tache and Wabegoon stations. Ultimately, as
population in the North-West increased, a branch wpuld probably be made from the north
end of Lake Nepigon to the north end of Lake Winnipeg, and crossing the Nelson River,
might be continued up the North Saskatchewan, nor end, possibly, until it reached Peace
River.

The Dominion would then have a back-bone, which appears to me absolutely indis-
pensable, if we ever aspire to be an independent nation, or even if we wish to remain as
we are. As such a back-bone, however, for defensive purposes, a railway running along
the shores of Lakes Huron and Superior, and thereafter for the greater part of its length,
in close proximity to the international boundary, is utterly and completely u-seless should
our independence be at any time threatened from the south, the only quarter from which
it is ever likely to be threatened at all.

A glance at the map must convince any man of common sense that communication
between our capital, Ottawa, and our North Western Provinces, might be interrupted
with the greatest ease at many exposed and indefensible points on the projected
route of our great national railway. This too, should be borne in mind, namely, that
this railway affords the only communication we are likely to have for many years,
with Manitoba, Keewatin, and even British Columbia. If in locating the route of this
railway, so essential to the maintenance of our confederation if not also of our independence,
such considerations as national defence, or, in plain terms, military considerations, are enti-
tled to no weight whatever, I cannot understand what possible plea or justification there can
be for the heavy expenditure incurred in the support of militia, volunteers, military col-
leges and such like, or indeed for making the Lake Superior section of the road at all. With
running powers sufficiently guaranteed over American lines of railway south and west of
Lake Superior to the boundary of Manitoba, all that would be needed for many years
to carry on the united trade, travel and traffic between Montreal and Toronto on the one
hand and Manitoba and the North West on the other, is simply the extension of the
Nipissing and Algoma branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway, from Algoma Mills, its
present terminus, to Sault Ste. Marie, and a line from Bracebridge to connect with the
Canadian Pacific Railway at or about Spanish River.

If, however, other objects than those of mere trade and commerce imperatively de-
mand consideration and attention, then it is abundantly evident that the main trunk line
of the railway should pass over the Height of Land before it reaches Lake Huron, and
follow some such route as I have indicated. Then a great step will have been taken toward
the speedy development and settlement of the territory which forms the more immediate
subject of this report, and its importance and value to the Province of Ontario will
be greatly enhanced. Until this vital question is decided and our claim to the territory
definitely settled, it is unnecessary to deal further with this branch of the subject.

In conclusion under this head, I may observe, that before my explorations in this
territory, 1 fully believed that it would be better, if not obsolutely necessary, to locate
the main-trunk line of the Canadian Pacific Railway south of the Height of Land and
as near to the north shores of Lakes Huron and Superior as possible ; but a more impar-
tial consideration of the question, and fuller knowledge of the facts, convince me that

f which will
ord. If the
shore line,"
wover, there
Iway on this
10 (Janadian
udHon'fl Bay
Hhore traffic,
ing on Lake
pcirior to the
tain from its
inion iathat
xy should be
uid join the
timately, as
)ni the north
elson River,
iached Peace

Intely indis-
bo remain as
inning along
of its length,
leless should
• from which

nraunication
interrupted
le projected
lamely, that
many years,
route of this
idependence,
ons, are enti-
on there can
military col-
atall. With
and west of
many years
3 on the one
ision of the
na Mills, its
ect with the

eratively de-
n trunk line
Huron, and
aken toward
e immediate
Ontario will
the territory
ject.

tions in this
ry, to locate
3f Land and
more impar-
ince me that

Mr. Bandford Fleming, ex-Chief Engineer, was quite right in projecting the line of the
railway north of the Height of Land.

Social Condition.

In the first report which I had the honour to submit on this territory, the social condi-
tion of the natives was described at considerable length. With trifling and unimportant
exceptions, the views and opinions then expressed have been conrirmed by subsoqu'-nt
observation and experience. It is uniiocessary, therefore, to go over the same ground
again.

The population actually resident or domiciled in the territory claimed by Ontario,
north of the Height of Land, cannot be very accurately ascertained, for reasons that
need not be explained at length. I am of opinion, however, that the bona-tide popula-
tion does no exceed two thousand five bundled.

This is a very small number of inhabitants for a territory, the area of which is equal to
that of England and Wales. It is even to be feared that thj native population, small as it
is, will be further reduced when it has passed through the ordeal that inevitably awaits it
when brought into more general intercourse and contact with our race. In addition to
those who will fall victims to the intemperate use of alcoholic liquors, several of the
diseases, such as small-pox — against which we take special precautions — and others,
such as measles — which we easily get over — are very fatal to the Indians ; the mortality
in the case of measles being almost as great as in small-pox. Last fall and winter
measles carried off a very heavy per centage of the natives at Long Lake and Missin-
aibi Posts, both in this territory ; but fortunatrJy it did not reach the posts on the
coast of Janios' Bay.

Notwithstanding the smallness of the population, the food question is still by far the
most important to the natives of this territory. Like all those who depend solely on
hunting or fishing for their living, it is either "a burst or a starve ;" too often the latter.
In most countries it is over- population that leads to a deficiency of food and consequent
famine. In this territory it arises rather from the great scarcity during the long winter
months of those wild animals and birds which are capable of withstanding the cold, and of
themselves obtaining food at that season. Among animals, the deer, bear, beaver, musk-
rat, and rabbit are those on which the Indian chiefly relies for food. Of these, the
rabbit, musk-rat, and beaver, are, in this territory, by far the most important. When
rabbits are plentiful the Indians do not suffer for want of food, although the flesh of
the rabbit is not very nutritious. But this animal, really a variety of " hare," is subject
to epidemics or diseases, which periodically destroy them almost entirely ; and after
one of these plagues has passed over the country they are so scarce that every
creature that is dependent, either wholly or in any considerable degree, on them for
subsistence, suffers accordingly. Thus not only the Indian, but the lynx, fox, fisher,
etc., among animals, and the owl among birds, suffer more or less from starvation and
hunger, when the rabbit fails or becomes scarce. Rabbits have, unfortunately, been
very scarce for several years, and a number of deaths from starvation have occurred
among the Indians near the coast. Many more have barely escaped with their lives, and
the suffering has no doubt been general and great.

At such seasons I believe the population would almost perish bodily, but for the
beaver. This interesting animal is of greater value than any other to the native popula-
tion of this territory. The meat is wholesome and good ; and a full grown beaver, weigh-
ing say forty pounds, affords, after deducting offal, skin, and bones, as much probably as
twenty-five pounds of actual food, besides the fur, the value of which often exceeds that
of all the other furs trapped by the hunter added together. If sufiicient numbers were
left as a breeding stock, there is food enough in this territory for millions of beaver,
but so little regard is paid to this vitally important point, that were it not for the extra-
ordinary sagacity of the creature, it must long ere this have been almost exterminated.
One of the officers of the Company told me that in the neighbourhood of his post there is
a small lake or pond, the privilege of trapping in which he had acquired from the Indians,
and, with a certain area of the country around, reserved for himself. In this pond lived

a fiingle pair of old beavor, which once a year gave hirth to four young ones. For four
years he liacl trapped the four young >)eavcr, and the fifth year ho had caught three, making
in all nineteen beaver in five yeara from one pair. This was a remarkably good return,
especially when we consider thatthoy are entirely self-supporting, both summer and winter.
But what I wish to remark more particularly in this connection is, that this gent'eman
frankly admitted ho had been trying the whole time (five years) to catch the old beaver,
but in vain ; for up to that period their extraordinary sagacity had enabled them to
elude the traps to which their inexperienced offspring had regularly fallen victims.

It is not that in the whole territory the quantity of game, in the aggregate, is
insufficient to maintain the wretchedly small number of inhabitants ; but that game is so
scarce that the hunter, let him cover as much ground as his strength will enable him
to do, cannot obtain sufficient day by day, during the winter season, to keep himself and
family alive. Neither deer nor boar are at all numerous. Some few caribou and moose-
deer are killed in the central and southern part of the territory ; but they are very
scarce I think in the flat Muskeg region, near the coast. They are much more abundant
on the Eastmain coast, and throughout the whole of the Labrador peninsula. The
moose-deer is only met with on or near the Height of Land.

Of winged game ptarmigan and grouse, often called partridges, are the only kind
which remain in the country during the winter. Sometimes the i)tarmigan or white
grouse come from the north in considerable numbers, and when they do so are a God-
send to the natives ; but they are by no means a reliable source of food. The variety of
grouse most frequently met with, is what we call the " spruce partridge ;" although the
rufled grouse or common partridge of southern Ontario is frequently seen in the southern
and central region. Both these varieties breed in the territory.

Wild fowl are obtainable in considerable numbers in the spring and fall, especially
on or near the coast, but leave for the south before winter sets in. Pigeons, unaccount-
ably to me, are very scarce in the territory. Nor are small birds of any kind at all
numerous, excepting on the coast and islands in the Bay.

The fish in the fre.sh water lakes and rivers are neither so plentiful or good as south
of the Height of Land. In some few places a small kind of sturgeon is caught, and is
good of its kind. Pike, however, and suckers are I should say the mo.st important as a
food supply ; the former, indeed, under the name of jackfish, being in many places all
the natives can get during the winter. Some of the lakes contain whitefish and lake-
trout ; the pickerel or dore is also caught in some of the rivers. These with a few speckled
trout, and in some places a variety of chub, are the principal kinds of fish in the interior
of the country. In the estuaries of the large rivers and in Hudson Bay itself, there are
other species ; these, however, have been fully described by Dr. Bell.

On the whole the food supply is precarious and uncertain ; and seasons of plenty
bear, I fear, but a small proportion to those of scarcity if not actual dearth.

It was stated in my first report on this territory, that the only hope I entertained
of relief from this unhappy condition of the natives was in the opening up of the country.
1 am still of that opinion ; and this is one reason why I am anxious to see the Cana-
dian Pacific Railway located as far north as the interests of our Province and the Do-
minion will permit. Even admitting that the natives may not nominally receive a
greater money value for their furs than is now paid by the Honourable Hudson Bay Company,
all the necessaries of life would cost the Company very much less than they now do, in
consequence of the cheapness of transport by rail compared with what it is by canoes.
Thus at inland posts, such as Matawagamingue and Flying Post, they could give the
Indians twice as much flour, oatmeal, pork, lard, sugar, and such like, for their furs as they
can possibly aflPord to do at present. Some of these Indian families (every member of
which frequently traps and hunts) catch from two to three hundred dollars worth of furs
in the season, and might live really very comfortably if the price of the necessaries of life
were only moderate. I am satisfied too, that as soon as the country is opened up a very
little encouragement will induce the natives to turn their attention to the cultivation of
the soil and the keeping of cattle.

The Indians with their families generally gather at the Posts soon after the ice leaves
the rivers, bringing the furs they have succeeded in getting during the winter. Most

■ .iajuiii;. ^'iPiriiH')' istaai^'iLZ- ■.

3. For four
ireo, making
jooil return,

and winter.
3 gont'eman
I old beaver,
led tliem to
itims.

ggregate, is
t game is so

enable him
himself and

and moose-
ey are very
•e abundant
nsula. The

e only kind
m or white
i are a God-
e variety of
Ithough the
he southern

, especially
unaccount-
kind at all

ight.

as south
and is
)ortant as a
y places all
and lake-
!w speckled
the interior
f, there are

I of plenty

entertained
lie country.
3 the Cana-
id the Do-
receive a
Y Company,
low do, in
by canoes.
Id give the
'urs as they
member of
»rth of furs
iries of life
1 up a very
tivation of

> ice leaves
ber. Most

of the adle-bodied men are employed from one to three months during the summer,
taking the furs to Moose or Albany factories, and bringing back the supplies needed
at their own posts. Those voyages or trips are usually made in canoes or boats. Some-
times this brigade, as it is called, consists of forty or fifty men. The brigade is accom-
I)ani(d by one or more officers and the white servants, usually Orknoymen, at thr posts.
The white servants and the natives work together, eat together, an I associate together,
on equal terms. Even the officers often takn part in the conversation, and describe or
explain to the Indians in their own language, matters which they would otherwise know
nothing at all about. This association on their voyages and at the posts, continued
year after year for several generations has, in my opinion, had a very important influence
on the Indians as a means of education. The discipline, the steady labour, the necessity
of working together for the attainment of a common object, are all calculated to teach
them valuable lessons. They are, too, more or less keenly alive to the approbation or disap-
probation of '^ ' "leers and fellow voyagers — a powerful incentive to good, and equally
strong restrawi^ .^m evil. Thus there is little or no shirking of a fair share of the
labour, whether it bo hauling, poling, paddling, or carrying on the portages ; but all seem
to work together cheerfully, bearing heat or cold, rain or storm, and the incessant attacks
of flies, with patience and fortitude. Either chis or some other influence makes them
generally honest, wonderfully forbearing towards each other in word and act, anything
like quarelling being very uncommon. Watching, as I have sometimes done, when several
of them were eating out of the same dish, I hardly ever noticed anything which appeared
like greediness. On the whole they seem to be actuated by a feeling of fairplay which
has not unfrequently excited my admiration. These lessous must have been learnt chiefly
I think in the canoe and on the voyage ; for at the inland posts to which I particularly
refer, missionaries have had little opportunity nf inculcating the principles of Christian,
luoraiity. I think they are intelligent and teachable, and have formed a high opinion not
only of the progre.ss already made towards civilization, but of their capacity for further
improvement; and I sincerely hope and trust that before long the opportunity may be
aflbrded them of materially improving their condition.

Administkation of Justice.

Situated as we are in reference to this territory, our Claim and the Award of the
Arbitrators unacknowledged, without houses to live in, or a court to meet in ; with
neither constable or gaoler, or anyone in the territory that would be willing, probably, to
act in either capacity ; without a gaol or a lockup, and without the commonest means
of travel, by which criminals could be safely sent four hundred miles to the nearest
prison, I may say that I have looked forward, with a feeling of some uneasiness to the
time when it might be absolutely necessary, cost what it may, in the performance of my
duty, to commit some one to gaol.

The quiet and inoffensive character of the people on the one hand, and the great in
fluence and control which the officers of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company possess, on
the other, enabling them as it stil' does to settle many little differences without appealing
to the law ; together with the fact that the serious crimes which have occurred have been
committed in territory out of my jurisdiction, have fortunately relieved me so far from
this unpleasant necessity.

Even when our claim to the territory is acknowledged, and when every other
arrangement is completed, it is certain that until the people have been in some measure
educated to it, that the administration of justice must still be imperfect, owing to a
reluctance on the part of the natives to lay informations, make complaints, or give evidence,
even when they know of crimes which have been committed, or have been actually wronged
or ill-treated themselves.

In the interests of good order and justice, however, I am persuaded that thio
unsettled and unsatisfactory state of affairs cannot be allowed to continue any longer.

I have now examined, and in this and previous reports have described as fully and
fairly as I am able, that part of the so-called " disputed territory " lying on the north.
sid9 of the Height of Land. These reports show :

That the climate is remarkably healthy, the cold in winter being not quite as severe
as in most partb of the North-west, and the mean summer temperature sufficiently high to
bring to maturity, in two-thirds at least of the territory, all the more important grain
and root crops, if not flax, hemp, hops, and other crops of a j-ke nature which are as
yet untried.

These reports also show, that although a very large proportion indeed of the surface
is covered with lakes, marshes, swamps, and particularly with " muskegs" or peat-mosses,
there still remains a great quantity of land in this territory fit for settlement.

The soil is seen to present considerable diversity of character, varying in composi-
tion from stiff clay to light sandy loam ; the former occurs mortj commonly near the coast
and the latter on or near the Height of Land. The subsoil is found to consist in nearly
every section of the territory of the marls, boulder clays, gravels and sands of the
boulder or drift formation. That the underlying rock is fossiliferous limestone in the
lower or northern part, Huronian and Laurentian in the central part, and Laurentian
only on the Height of Land, excepting near our eastern boundary where rocks of
Huronian age are found in situ on the Height of Land itself.

That the peat-mosses repose on a gently sloping subsoil of clay at such a height
above the rivers as to admit of very easy drainage, and that in consequence of this and
other exceptionally favourable conditions, it is highly probable very large areas of these
muskegs or peat-mosses may be reclaimed at a very moderate expense and converted into
fine pasture, if not into good arable land. That while there is quite sufficient arable
land to grow bi-ead-stuffs for the consumption of a considerable population, it is doubtful
whether or not this will be a grain exporting territory.

This will depend in a great measure on the success which may attend the attempts to
reclaim the land now buried under a greater or less depth of peat. The writer believes
that these attempts will be successful, and that in respect of these areas (and they are of
vast extent), where the covering of peat is not more than five or six feet in thickness, the
reclamation of such land is not only practicable, but that the resulting soil, composed as
it would be of an admixture of peat-ashes and peat, with the underlying marl, could
hardly fail to be a fine wheat-growing soil. Nor are other hopeful conditions wanting, for
(in addition to the fact that the climate of this great basin of Hudson's Bay has in all
probability been slowly improving ever since the culminating point of the Glacial Epoch,
anci will in all likelihood continue to do so for many centuries to come) we know that
the drainage of great tracts of country exercises a remarkably favourable influence on
the climate, both as regards temperature and otherwise. Thus it is to say the least quite
possible, that an intelligent, industrious, and energetic people, aided by all the resources
that science, machinery, and wealth can furnish, and protected by wise and just laws, in
the possession and enjoyment of the fruits of their labour, such a people as we trust our
descendants will be, may yet reclaim and convert this almost unknown and despised ter-
ritory into one of the finest wheat-growing regions on this continent.

In the meantime, however, it appears to me that a mixed .system of husbandry will
be the most suitable to the earlier condition of the country, and that stock-raising and
dairy-farming will probably be the most profitable branches.

As the breeding of cattle in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, to be after-
wards sold and fattened in the south for the English market has long been found profit-
able both to the breeders in the north and to the feeders in the south ; so likewise
may we anticipate that the breeding of cattle in this territory, to be afterwards fattened
in southern Ontario, will be extensively followed, with great advantage to the people of
both sections of our province.

My explorations also enable me to say with confidence that the mineral resources
of this territory promise to become of ry great value and importance. Iron, lea J
and copper ores, china-clay, gypsum, and . yellow and brown ochres have been already
found, and this for the most part in great abundance. Lignita or brown coal has been
discovered in seven or eight different places, and beds of this coarse but useful fuel are
believed to underlie large tracts of country.

The peat-beds are sd extensive as to be practically inexhaustible, and these together
with the lignite will in all probability prove sooner or later of inestimable value as fuel,

ito as severe
ntly high to
jrtanfc grain
hich are as

the surface
peat-mosses,
t.

in composi-
ear the coast
ist in nearly
lands of the
stone in the

Laurentian
re rocks of

Lch a height
of this and
•eas of these
inverted into
Lcient arable
t is doubtful

3 attempts to
iter believes
i they are of
hickness, the
composed as
marl, could
wanting, for
ay has in all
acial Epoch,
e know that
influence on
le least quite
he resources
just laws, in
we trust our
despised ter-

sbandry will
:-raising and

to be after-
found profit-
so likewise
irds fattened
the people of

rendering the people of Ontario to a considerable extent independent of foreign sources
for their supply of this indispensable necessary of life.

In the course of my explorations particular attention has been paid to the " timber
resources " of this territory, and observations on this important subject will be found to
occupy a prominent place in my reports. The general conclusions arrived at are : —

That east of the 84th meridian of longitude the climate not only admits, but is
favourable to the growth of red and white pine of large size and good quality in this
territory as fur north as the 49th parallb! of latitude.

That situated between the Height of Land and the 49th parallel, and between the
84th meridian and our eastern boundary, or say between the Missinaibi and Abittibi
Rivers is a region embracing some six or seven million acres of this territory within
which much of the soil is also more or less perfectly adapted to the growth of pine.

That, although bush-fires have within the last fifty years swept over the greater part
of this region, the charred remains in many instances afford ample testimony to the fact
that the former forests were composed largely of pine ; and that the ridges and islands
which have escaped these modern fires still bear considerable numbers of fine red and
white pine.

That irrespective altogether of the value of the pine now on the ground, the pro-
spective value of the timber which seven million acres of good forest land may be
capable of producing by the unaided efforts of Nature alone, should be fairly taken into
account, for if not to ourselves such a forest, more than royal in its dimensions, will
surely prove a valuable legacy to posterity.

It will have been seen by those who have perused the narrative of my journey ings
and explorations, that spruce, tamarac, canoe-birch, and aspen-poplar are found all over
the territory. The spruce and tamarac frequently attain a good size and may come to be
valuable for export. The aspen is rapidly assuming importance as affording material
(pulp) well suited for the manufacture of some kinds of paper. It may well be that
before long the aggregate value of these inferior kinds of timber of which there are such
vast quantities, may greatly exceed that of the rad and white pine, the growth of which
is confined, as will have been seen, to narrower limits. The willow is found in every part
of this territory growing luxuriantly. Whether the variety so useful for basket making
could be successfully cultivated remains to be seen, but in my opinion it would succeed
admirably on the river bottoms.

In conclusion, I have again to acknowledge tlie many obligations I am under for
assistance rendered, and numerous acts of kindness shown by James L. Cotter, Esq.,
W. K. Broughton, Esq., and Dr. Haydon, at Moose Factory ; Mr. Ray at Matawaga-
niingue, and Mr. Thomas Moore at Flying Post; also by M. Matheson, Esq., in charge
of the Hon. Hudson Bay Company's Post at Lacloche, as well as by Mr. Ross of White-
fish Lake, and Mr. Dyke of Mississagua. But for the friendly disposition of the Hon.
Hudson Bay Company and its officers, and the assistance they have afforded me, I could
not have made the explorations which form the subject of this and previous reports.

Respectfully submitted.

E. B. BORRON,

Stipendiary Magistrate.

iral resources
Iron, leaJ
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