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Hemorios of Canada and Sicotland. Speeches and Verses by the
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History of Canada under French Kesrime, I533-I763, with Mai s
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Grammar and Dictionary of the Ojibway Ijangrna{;:e, by R- R.
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The Intercolonial— A Historical Sketch of the Intercolonial Railway,
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Canada on the Pacific— A Journey from Edmonton to the Pacific by
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3.
4.
vei
■$4
t»
10
i(
10
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20
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20
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40
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60
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80
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80
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100
5c.
10c.
20c.
30c.
40c.
50c.
And on Money Orders paj-able in the United Kingdom and United
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Table showing the amonnf in Canadian Money fo he paid hy reminera
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£ «. d.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
S c.
£
8.
d.
$ c.
24
1
4 87
49
2
9 74
73
3
14 61
97
4
19 48
1 22
5
24 35
J f'
6
29 22
1 71
I
34 09
1 95
8
38 96
2 19
9
43 83
2 44
10
48 70
1 1
l|SS4
HAND-BOOK
FOR THE
DOMINION OF CANADA.
PREPARED FOR
THE MEETING OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION FQ:i
THE ADVANCEMENT OF SCIENCE.
AT MONTREAL, 1884.
BY
S. E. DAWSON,
ONE OF THE LOCAL SECRETAKIES OF THE ASSOCIATION,
' ' ' .:0 III
MONTREAL:
DAWSON BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.
1884.
'■{y^w
Entered according to Act of Parliament of Canada, in the year 1884 by
S. E. Dawson, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture. •
GAZETTE PRINTING CO., MONTREAI..
PREFACE.
This book has been prepared at the request of the
Citizens' Committee of the British Association for the
purpose of giving to the members attending the
meeting at Montreal an outline of the main facts of
interest concerning Canada generally, and, especially,
concerning the place of meeting and its immediate
surroundings.
Although, in a general way, the committee has
approved of the book, the writer alone is responsible
for any opinions which may incidentally be expressed
in it and for the accurac}^ of the facts set forth. The
statistical information is, for the most part, derived
from documents published by the general or provin-
cial parliaments.
Some of the chapters have been contributed by gen-
tlemen specially conversant with the subjects treated
in them. Mr. A. T. Drummond contributed the chap-
ter on Forestry at page 21, and that on the Botany of
Labrador, page 272. Mr. Thomas McDougall, that at
page 24 on the Lumber Trade. Music is treated of by
Mr. Joseph Gould at pages 38 and 222. Dr. Harring-
ton contributed the chapter on the Geolog}^ of Mont-
real and its environs at page 232. Dr. George M.
Dawson supplied the chapter at page 323 on the
Geology of the country between Owen Sound and the
Eocky Mountains, Principal Dawson wrote the geo-
logical itinerary of the Intercolonial Kailway at page
84, and Mr. D. A. P. Watt contributed the chapter on
the Salmon Fisheries of the Labrador Coast at page 279,
and that on the Botany of Lake Superior at page 322.
CONTENTS.
THE DOMISION OF CAS ADA.
Introduction, p. 1.-— Political Future, p. o. — Physical Features,
p. 4. — Extent, p. 7. — Census, p. 8. — !n<lians, p. 8. — ^lilitia,
p. 10. — Commerce, p. 11. — Inland Revenue, p. 14. — Na-
tional I'olicv, p. 14. — Manufactures, p. 10. — Public Works,
p. 19.— TotaVCostof PuTi;Tu^'\forks,p. L'l— Forestry, p.21.—
1/ The Lumber Trade, p. 24.--Kailways, \\ 27.— Grand Trunk
Railway, p. 28.— Canadian Pacitic Railway, p. 29. — Govern-
ment Roads, p. 33. — Science, Literature and Art, p. 34. —
Geological Survey, p. 34. — Meteorological Service, p. 35. —
Royal Society, p. 35. — Royal Canadian Academy, p. 36. —
Literature, p. 37. — Music, p. 38. — Political Divisions, p. 42. —
. Table of size of the Great Lakes, p. 43. — Table of Distances,
p. 43.
ACADIA.
General Sketch of the Acadian Provinces, p. 45.
NOVA SCOTIA.
Pliysical Features, p. 51.— Soil, p. 51. — Climate, p. 52. —
Minerals, p. 52.— Coal, p. 53. — Gold, p. 54. — Iron, p. 54. —
Fisheries, p. 54. — Population, p. 55. — Education, p. 55.
HALIFAX.
History and Sketch of the City, p. 55.
EXCURSIONS IN NOVA SCOTIA.
To Yarmouth r/a Wnuhor, p. 61. — Windsor, p. 61. — Grand Pre,
p. 62. — The Acadians, p. 63. — "Wolfville, p. 65. — Annapolis,
p. 66. — Digby, p. 67. — ^C'lare, p. 67.— Yarmouth, p. (S^.
To Pictou p. 68. — Stellarton, p. 68.— New Glasgow^, p. 68. —
Pictou, p. 69. — Coal Mines, p. 70.
To Ccmso, p. 71. — Antigonish, p. 71. — Tracadie, p. 71. — Gut
of Canso, 71.
Vlir CONTENTS.
HALIFAX TO QUEBEC.
By the hitercolonial Rail way ^ p. 72.
Shubenaca<lie, p. 72.— Truro, p. 72.— Londonderry, p. 73.—
Folly Lake, p. 73. — Sprin.ixhlll Mines, p. 73. — Excursion to
the Jogirins, p. 74.— Parrsboro', p. 74. — Ma<'can, p. 75. —
Amherst, p. 75.— Bonier Wars, p. 75. — Sackville, p. 70. —
Moncton and tlie Tides of the Bay of Fundy, p. 77. — Mira-
michi, p. 78. — Chatham, p. 7V).— Bat hurst, p. 80. — Miscou,
p. 80. — The Lepers of Traeadie, p. 80. — Dalhousie, p. 82. —
Campbellton, p. 82.— Metapedia, j). 82.
THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY FROM HALIFAX TO QUEBEC.
Geological Itinerary of the Intercolonial Railway, p. 84.
CAPE BRETON.
History, p. 88.— Capture of Louisbourg, p. 91. — Area, p. 94. —
Climate, p. 95.— The Bras d'Or, p. 95. — Coal Mine^, p. 96. —
Sydney, p. 96.— Baddeck, p. 97.— Port Hawkesbury, p. 97. —
Arichat, p. 98.
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAXD.
History, p. 98.— Census, p. 100.— Soil, p. 101.— Climate, p. 101.
Trade, p. 102.— Charlottetown, p. 102.— Summerside, p. 103.
Georgetown, p. 103.
NEW BRUNSWICK.
The United Empire Loyalists, p. 103.— Physical Features,
p. 107— Rivers, p. 108.— Minerals, p. 108.— Climate, p. 108.
Population, p. 109.— Railways, p. 109.— Education, p. 109.
ST. JOHN.
History and Sketch of the City, p. 110.
EXCURSIONS IN NEW BRUNSWICK.
To Fredericton, p. 112.— Fredericton, p. 113.— The Maine
Boundary, p. 114. -The St. Croix River, p. 115. -St. An-
drews, p. 115.— St. Stephen, p. 116.
CONTENTS. IX
PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
General Acroiintof its History and Physical Features, p. 117.
THE CITY OF QUEBEC.
Description, p. 127.— Harbour, j). 129. — Hotels, p. 130. — Foun-
dation, p. 130. — Citadel, p. 131. — Fortifications, p. 132. —
Sciuares and Monuments, p. 134. — Keligious and C iiaritable
Institutions, p. 137. — C hurches, p. 140. — Parliament Build-
ings, I). 141.— Laval University, p. 141. — The Chien d'Or,
p. 143.— Excursions from Quebec, p. 145. — Falls of Mont-
morenci,p. 145. — Falls of Lorette, p. 140. — Chaudiere Falls^
p. 140.
MONTREAL.
General Description and History, p. 147.— Hotels, 154. — Cab
Tariff, p. 150. — Restaurants, p. 158. — Post ()ffice, p. 159. —
Commerce, p. 159. — Harbour, p. 100. — Lachine Canal, p.
103. — Railways, p. 105. — Victoria Bridge, p. 107. — Manu-
•/factures, p. 170.— Water Works, p. 170.— Mount Royal
Park, p. 171. — Parks and Squares, p. 174. — Public Build-
ings, p. 1 70. — Churches, p. 179. — Benevolent Institutions, p.
193. — Educational Institutions, p. 202. — Science, Literature
and Art, p. 220. — Amusements, p. 225.
GEOLOGY OF MONTREAL AND ITS ENVIRONS.
Sketch of the Geology of Montreal and surrounding country
with a map geologically coloured, p. 232.
EXCURSIONS FROM MONTREAL.
The Cemeteries, p. 239. — Mountain Drive, p. 240. — Sault-au-
Recollet, p. 240. — Lachine, p. 241. — Lachine Rapids, p. 241.
— Belail, p. 243.
To Quebec by the Biter, p. 243. — Sorel, p. 245. — Three Rivers,
p. 240.
To Ottawei by Canadian Pacific Ba'dway, p. 248. — Grenville,
p. 249. — Buckingham, p. 250.
To Lake Memphrernagog, p. 250. — Chambly, p. 251. — West
Farnham, p. 254. — Sutton, p. 255. — Newport, p. 255. — Lake
Memph rem agog, p. 255-
The Eastern Townships, p. 257.
X CONTENTS.
THE LOWER ST. LAW'REXCE.
La Bonno Sto. Ann«\ p. 25!>.— Tslaii'I of Orleans, p. 259.— St.
Thomas, p. 2<io.— Day St. Paul, p. •-<►<». — Le.s EboiikMiiens,
p. 2<)0.— Eartlxniako.s; p. 2«;i.— Murray Bay, p. 2B1.— Kain-
ouraska,p. 2>i2.— liivicrodu Lnun, p. 2>»2.— Cacouna. [h 2(53.
Tadousac, p. 2<)3.— I'rince of Wales at Ta<lousac, 2<)5.— Tlie
Saguonay, !>. 2<)5.— Ha Ha Day, p. 208.
To the Bnii Chahur, p. 2<)8.— Bi(\ p. 2«)8.— Rhuouski, p. 2(V.).—
Mataiie, p 2<)*.>.— Gaspf', p. 27<i.— Perce, p. 270.— Pa,si)ebiac,
p. 270.— Dalhousie, p. 271.
THE LABRADOR COAST.
p. Z/>.— .
p. 278.— Salmon Fisheries, p. 27i>.
THE PROVLXCE OF OXTARIO.
History, p. 281.— U. E. Loyalists, p. 281.— Newark, p. 282.—
York, p. 282.— War of 18i2, p. 282.— Area, p. 283.— Climate,
p. 284. — Resources, p. 284. — Census, p. 280. — \.auufactures,
y p. 286.
CITY" OF OTTA\VA.
Description, p. 287. — Chaudiere Falls, p. 287.— Parliament
Buildings, p. 288. — Society at the Capital, p. 288. — Hotels,
p. 289.
Montreal to Ottawa h^i Canada Atlantic Railwa'/, p. 289. — St.
Anne's, p. 290.— Vaudreuil, p. 290.
Ottawa to Montreal hq the River, p. 291. — The Riyer Ottawa,
p. 291.— The Gatineau, p. 291.— The Lieyre, p. 291.— The
North and South Nation, p. 291.— Grenyille, p. 292.— The
Rapids of the Ottawa, j). 292.— Carillon, p. 293.— The Cana-
dian Thermopylie, p. 293.— The Sacrifice of Dollard, p. 294.
The Lake of Two Mountains, p. 295.— Rigaud, p. 295.— The
Deyil's Garden, p. 295.— Oka, p. 295.— St. Anne's, p. 296.—
Lake St. Louis, p. 297.— Lachine, p. 297.
CONTENTS. X[
THE UPl'EK ST. LAWRENCE.
Kvigftoi) to Montreal hji thr Ilivir, p. 2!>7. — Kin<«'ston, p. 207. —
Frontonac and LaSallo, p. I'I'T. — lioyal ISlilitarv Collogo, [>.
21)9.--i^UM'n'.s ( olleiro, p. 2!>!)— Tlio TlioiisaiKf Islands, i).
20*.). — ])i('k«'iis and IMarniier, p. 300. — Tliousand I.slan<l
Park, p. :301.— Tho IJapids of the St. Law nuico, p. 301. —
Tom Moore, p. 3()2.— The Long Sault, p. :;()3.--Tlie Lower
Kapids, p. lio;;.— Isle Perrot, p. 304.— Cliateauguay, p. 304.
— La»'hine, p. 3()5.
Ottaira to Toronto hti RoUimii, p. 305. — Madoc, p. 300.— Poter-
boro,p. 3(Mi.— The Trent, p. 30().— The Lake ^'ities, p. 300.—
Belleville., :>00.— ( obourg, p. 300.
TORONTO.
llistorv, p. 307.— Aleanini; of Name, p. 307. — Trade, p. 300. —
Hotels, p. 300.— Kaihvays, p. 300.— Parks, p. 300.— Public
Buildings, p. 310. — Clnirches, p. 310.— Educational Institu-
tions, p. 311.— Libraries, p. 313. — Newspapers, p. 313.
Toronto to Xiagara, p. 313. — Niagara, p. 314.
I'he Peninsula of Ontario, p. 315. — Hamilton, p. 315. — London,
p. 315.
Toronto to Lake Svprrior, ]\ 31(>. — Lines of Travel, p. 310. —
Georgian Bay, p. 318. — Lake Simcoe, p. 31S. — Owen Sound,
p. 31'S. — The Destruction of a Nation, p. 310. — Collingwood,
p. 310.
Lake Superior, p. 310.— The Ojibway fbuntry, p. 310.— The
Isles of Huron, p. 320.— The Inside C hannel, p. 320.— Sault
Ste Marie, p. 321.— ^lichipicoton, p. 321.— Nepigon, p. 321.
Thunder Bav, p. 321.— Port Arthur, p. 322.— The Land of
Hiawatha, p. 322.— Botany, p. 322.
Geological Sketch of the country from Lake Huron to the
Rocky Mountains, p. 323.
MANITOBA.
History, p. 327. — La Verendrye, p. 328. — Area, p. 328. — Phy-
sical Features, p. 320.— Soil* p. 320.— Climate, p. 330.— Pro-
ductions, p. 330. — Coal, p. 331. —The Provisional Districts,
p. 332.— Tlie Hudson's Bay Route, p. 332.
XII CONTENTS.
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
General Description, p. 333. — Climate, p. 334. — Resources,
p. 334.— Coal, p. 334. -Gold, p. 335.
MAPS.
Sketch Map of the Dominion.
Map of the Grand Trunk System, to face p. 28.
Geological Map of Montreal and its Environs, to face p. 232.
General Railway System of Eastern Canada.
HAND-BOOK FOR CANADA.
THE DOMINION OP CANADA.
Introduction.— To those fortunate people who are
endowed with intelligent curiosity and quick percep-
tion, travel in any country is pleasant and profitable ;
and it is doubtful whether, in comparing other coun-
tries with their own, the differences they observe or
the similarities they recognise interest them most.
An Englishman visiting Canada for the first time will
have abundant material for both these classes of
observation. He will see a people of his own race and
language w^ho have adapted themselves to a totally
new set of conditions. He will be able to trace poli-
tical principles, with which he is familiar, worked out
into new forms ; unchecked by the resisting force of
institutions venerable by the traditions of long pre-
ceding centuries. In Canada, he will see the youngest
nation in the world ; and he will be able to converse
with those who assisted at its birth. He will see
institutions in process of construction, and a people,
without a leisure class, busy working at them. Much
of the political energy of the old world is, properly
enough, spent in destructive modification of old insti-
tutions ; but, in the new world, the same energy is
fully occupied in constructive adaptation of principles.
2 THE DOMINION.
Hence Englishmen are often sui-prised to find that
Canadians, of all political parties, are more conserva-
tive than they themselves are. and they will soon
learn that party names have not always the same
political contents in Canada as in England.
Some of the provinces have interesting and event-
ful histories going back to the discovery of this conti-
nent, but the Dominion dates only from July 1, 186*7.
Upon that day the Imperial Act, known as the British
North America Act, came into force and inaugurated
the present political status. That Act was passed at
the request, and upon the petition, of the Legislature
of Canada which then consisted of, what are known
now as, the provinces of Ontario and Quebec. The
other provinces accepted the Act as each entered the
Dominion ; and, in this manner, each legislature laid
down its former powei'S to resume anew that portion
which fell to its share under the distribution of the
Imperial Act. The end the founders of the Dominion
sought could not be attained in any other v^ixy. With
the warning of the great civil war of the United
States before their eyes, they resolved to avoid the
semblance of a delegation of a limited portion of pro-
vincial rights to a central government. Therefore the
different Provincial Legislatures practically resigned
the aggregate of their political powers into the hands
of the Imperial Parliament, which, in turn, re-dis-
tributed this total imperium in the manner laid down
in the Act, and thus formulated the present Constitu-
tion of the Dominion of Canada. One most essential
point must be borne ever in mind, namely that, in
Canada, the residuum of the undistributed imperium
was given to the central government ; whereas, in
the United States, the residuum of the undelegated
imperium of each sovereign State remained with its
own legislature — a distinction most important, and
vital to the political constitution of the Dominion.
As might have been anticipated, questions concerning
the interpretation of the British JS^orth America Act
POLITICAL FUTURE. 3
are constantly arising. These are settled by ultimate
appeal to the Queen in Council. The political student
who desires detailed information as to the distribution
of political power to the various legislatures will find
it fully set forth in the Act in question.
Political Future.— This is a subject apparently of
unfailing interest to many who are not natives of the
country. The native Canadian is not in the least
degree exercised upon the question. Experience has
shown that the Canadian people have hitherto been
equal to such emergencies as have arisen in the past ;
and the Canadians of to-day are too much occupied
with practical questions to discuss the various hypo-
theses which speculative politicians delight to pro-
pound. Young nations, like young men, are not
addicted to introspection. Canadians will, however,
be found tolerant of political advice. They are accus-
tomed to it and therefore have great capacity for
receiving it with equanimity. They will listen with
complacency to the same mathematical demonstra-
tions which failed to convince their grandfathers,
that their country must inevitably be split up, or
swallowed up, or r^nnexed; or to any other theory
which ingenious strangers may cherish. They have
observed that in the regions of political and moral
forces the laws of arithmetic have only a fitful ap-
plication. History teaches them that the nations
which have in the past become great, have con-
cerned themselves more with doing the work which
lay ready to their hands than with speculative poli-
ties. Even the "fishing-rod argument" fails to move
them. For, in truth, other nations have passed
through the "fishing-rod" phase. The Prussians
were never disturbed because their provinces stretched
out end to end along the Northern seas ; or because
the Ehine provinces were separated by foreign States
from the main body of the kingdom. !N'or were the
Italians disturbed because Metternich considered Italy
4 THE DOMINION.
to be merely a geographical expression. The old
thirteen colonies were a fringe of English settlements
along the Atlantic coast; while the French occupied
the valleys of the St. Lawrence and Ohio. There is
more in common between the Manitobans and Nova
Scotians, than between thePiedmontese and Sicilians,
or between the Ehenish and Polish provinces of Prus-
sia. The political outlook of these countries was not
encouraging one hundred years ago ; but they worked
out their own problems in their own way, as the
Canadians propose to do, undeterred by the meta-
phors of political weather-prophets. There is an
over-carefulness in such matters, which is morbid,
referred to by the Hebrew sage when he said, '' He
that observeth the wind shall not sow and he that
regardeth the clouds shall not reap."
Physical Features.— A description of Canada is not
easily given in the limited space available in a guide-
book. To characterize in a few lines a country cov-
ering more than half the continent of North America,
and reaching from the latitude of Constantinople to
the North Pole — a country whose circuitous coast-line
on the Atlantic measures 10,000 miles, and whose
western shore upon the Pacific, studded with islands
and indented by secure harbours and deep inlets,
attains almost an equal length — a country where
maize and peaches are staple crops, and where
vegetation fades out upon the desolate and melan-
choly shores of the Arctic Ocean. To characterise
such a country by a few general phrases is evidently
impossible. If we look at the eastern portion alone
we see the greatest forest region in the world. If we
consider the central portion, we are regarding the
great prairie country, but if we cross the passes into
the Pacific province we enter upon that "Sea of
Mountains " compared with which the most mountain-
ous country in Europe is of limited extent.
And yet there are aspects in which, when British
PHYSICAL FEATURES. 5
Columbia is excepted, this great country may be
apprehended by a vnde genbralization. It is a country
of broad lakes and llowing waters. A country where
the abundance of streams and the regularity of sum-
mer rains preclude the possibility of drought, and
secure the widest area of vegetable growth. It is a
land of grass and forest. A country containing by
far the largest portion of fresh-water upon the globe ;
where, 2,000 miles from the ocean, the traveller may
lose sight of land and be prostrated by sea-sickness.
A land containing the most extensive water-ways in
the world J where thousands of miles of navigable
rivers may conduct commerce into the remotest
corner of the continent at its widest part. The slope
of the land from the Eocky Mountains is so gradual
that the rivers flow with an even stream, and their
sources are so certain that thej' flow in a equable
volume. The only abrupt fall of land from Edmonton
to the sea is the terrace at Niagara. That fall, and
the minor rapids of the St. Lawj-ence are overcome by
the most complete system of canals in the world, and,
with one transhipment at Montreal, goods can be
landed at the head of Lake Superior in the centre of
the continent, 2,384 miles from the Straits of Belle-
isle. Of this distance 1,500 miles are in fresh water;
but, if we turn farther noj-th and enter Canada by
Hudson's Bay, the ocean ship will reach, at Port Nel-
son, the outlet of a river system stretching out with
few interruptions to the very back-bone of the conti-
nent; and draining an interior basin, remoter than
the St. Lawrence basin, of over 2,000,000 square miles
in extent. This profound penetration and permeation
of the country by water-ways is the great character-
istic of Canada. Fj-om Port Nelson to Liverpool is
2,941 miles — from New York to Liverpool is 3,040
miles. It is difficult to realize the fact that there, in
the very centre of America, an Englishman is ninety-
nine miles nearer home than at New York.
6 THE DOMINION.
Not only in these greater instances, but in many-
others, the Dominion is intersected and irrigated by
myriads of streams which interlace their sources and
open up the country to its remotest bounds. In the
prairie region the Saskatchewan alone affords 1,500
miles of steamboat navigation. Close upon the north
of it commences the Mackenzie Eiver basin, extend-
ing over 550,000 square miles. This great stream, with
its tributary lakes and its chief affluent the Peace
Eiver, affoi'ds with trifling obstacles, upwards of
2,000 miles of waterway navigable for steamboats.
Down this mighty river in 1^93 went Alexander
Mackenzie, the Montreal fur-trader, and, first of white
men, stood upon the shore of the Arctic ocean and
" felt the breezes blow
From wastes that slumber in eternal snow ;
And waft across the waves tumultuous roar
The wolf s long howl from Oonalaska's shore."
We have excepted British Columbia from this gen-
eral description ; but there are remarkable correspon-
dences between the extremes of the Dominion upon
the eastern and western oceans. Nova Scotia, with
its magnificent harbour of Halifax and its abundance
of coal, corresponds with Vancouver Island, with
Esquimault the best harbour on the Pacific and its
wonderfully rich coal mines. Half-way between,
upon the prairies, crop out upon the surface at
Edmonton, at Bow and Belly rivers and elsewhere,
coal seams which set at rest for ever any question as
to fuel and motive power for the interior of the conti-
nent. The fisheries of the Pacific coast are fast rising
into an importance corresponding to those of the
Atlantic. All these things, and such as these, occupy
the minds of the busy community of Canadians. The
present generation are called to do a practical work.
They will pass away and their remote descendants,
who inherit their labours, may have leisure for hypo-
thetical politics. It was in the decay of the republic
AREA. 7
that Cicero found leisure to write out his speculations
upon the theoretical Commonwealth. Douotless, also,
the Canadians have their limitations ; but meanwhile
" necessity is laid upon them."
Extent— The area of the Dominion is 3,470,392
square miles, or about forty per cent, of the aggre-
gate area of all the British possessions throughout
the world. Upon its Atlantic coast, Canada, compared
with New York or Philadelphia, reaches one-third of
the way across the ocean to Europe. The ocean nar-
rows towards the north to such a degree that, more
than three centuries before Columbus, the Northmen
were able to visit the coasts of Cape Breton and Nova
Scotia in theii* little vessels. Of this vast area much
no doubt is unavailable for culture, but, as the North
and North-west are opened up, enormous tracts of
good land are revealed, astonishing the Canadians
themselves by the magnitude and extent of the
resources of their country. In Canada there is no
area desert from drought. In the far North-west,
where the isothermal lines rise high under the influ-
ence of the Japan current, the forest reaches the
shores of the Arctic ocean. The area of agricultural
and timbered lands in the Dominion is estimated at
2,000,000 square miles.
From the returns of the census of 1 881 it is ascer-
tained that the area of land occupied in the Dominion
was 45,358,141 acres.
of these there were improved : —
In crops acres 15,112,284
In pasture 6,385,562
In gardens and orchards 401,335
The remainder was unimproved. As the area of
land suitable for the cultivation of wheat is over
1,000,000 square miles or 640,000,000 acres, it will be
8
THE DOMINION.
seen at a glance that no one who is willing to work
need want for food in a country where so much land
may be had for the asking.
Census.— The last census of Canada was taken in
1881. The papulation by Provinces, compared with
the previous census, is as follows : —
Province.
Nova Scotia
New Brunswick
Prince Edward Island
1871.
1881.
387,800 440,572
285,594 321,233
94,021 1 108,891
In-
Rate
crease, per ct
Quebec il,191,516jl,359,027
Ontario 1,620,8511,923,228 302,377
52,772
35,039
14,870
167,511
Total, older Provinces . .
Manitoba
British Columbia .
Territories
Dominion gjrand total. .
3,579,782 4,152,951 573,169
18,995
36,247
65,954 46,960
49,459| 13,212
56,446
13.6
12.4
15.8
14.6
18.6
16.0
247.0
36.3
3,635,024 4,324,810 633,341 : 18.98
Out of the total population 403,491 persons were
owners, occupying their own lands. The holdei-s of
ten acres and less were 75,286. Those who held lands
of eleven to one hundred acres numbered 249,997.
From 101 to 200 acres the number of holders was
102,243, and over 200 acres 36,499.
Indians.— An account of Canada would be very
incomplete without some reference to the Aborignes
whose destiny it seems to be, sooner or later, to pass
away before the white man. The dealings of the
Canadian Government with the Indians have always
been marked by the strictest equity. In the North-
west, before lands were laid out for settlement, the
INDIANS. 9
Indian titles wore cxtinfijuished b}' treaties of purchase
conducted with councils of the tribes intei'ested ; and
concluded in the most foi-mal manner, and by
methods fully comprehensible to the Indians. These
treaties have been relii^iously olbserved. The last
Indian war in Canada was that of Pontiac, in 1763.
The whole North-west has been kept in the most per-
fect order by the Mounted Police, a force of 518
oflftcers and men with headquarters at Regina. Small
squads of these men will ride into the largest camp,
and arrest and bring to trial any Indian who has com-
mitted a crime. The most foimidable tribes of the
North-west are the Blackfeet. They respect and sub-
mit to this admirable body of men, for they have con-
fidence that justice will be done to an Indian as
righteously as to a white man. Last j^ear in the
whole North-west 386 cases were tried. One only
was for murder. Ninety-seven were simple disputes
about wages on the railway. Twenty-nine were for
gambling. Twelve onl}' wei-e for being drunk and
disorder!}', for it is absolutel}" forbidden to carry
spirituous liquors into the North-west ; and the
Mounted Police will speedih' deal with any white
man they catch doing it. A few years ago when
Sitting Bull with his Sioux, red-handed from the war
with the United States, took I'efuge on Canadian ter-
ritory, two men of the Mounted Police rode into his
camp and arrested one of his '' braves " who was
charged with murder, and carried him off to trial. The
whole Canadian North-west is more orderly and more
absolutely safe for man, woman or child than an}' city
in Euroi)e or America.
There is, in the Department of the Interior, a special
stall' for watching over the interests of the Indians
throughout the Dominion. Industrial schools are
provided for their children and farm instructors are
appointed to teach the adults to till their lands. Grov-
ernment provides seed, animals, and implements;
and, in the North-west, the Blackfeet (a most intelli-
10 THE DOMINION.
gent tribe) are settling down to work. In British
Columbia many Indians on the coast find regular
employment in the fish-canning factories and many
in the fisheries. Very little improvement appears
in the extreme east in recent years among the
Micmacs of the Maritime Provinces, but the Indian
settlements in Ontario are doing well. These consist
mainly of Iroquois. They are commencing to
increase in number, and are not only cultivating their
lands, but keeping their roads and bridges in repair.
The Oneidas came from the United States and bought
their own lands. The Indians of the Iroquois stock
generally do w^ell, while those of the Algonquin stock
are not so pjromising. The Government severely
punishes any one who sells liquor to the Indians. It
8upj)lies them with medical assistance and protects
them in every possible way from the cupidity of
white men. The total number of Indians in Canada
is 131,137, including the nomadic tribes as far as the
Arctic coast. Of these 36,483 are in British Columbia
and 34,520 in the North-west. In Quebec there are
11,930 and in Ontario 18,121. The mimber of children
actually attending school is 3,248. The present value
of the property held by Indians, or in trust for them,
is 811,007,914.
Militia.— The total expenditure last year in the
Department of Militia Avas $760,354. The force con-
sists of 37,000 men and officers. A small arms ammu-
nition factory is carried on at Quebec by the Depart-
ment. The officer in chief military command, under
the Minister of Militia, is always an officer of the
British army. Thei-e is at Kingston a Military Col-
lege where the highest education is given for officers
of the staff or for the scientific services ; and there are
schools at Toronto, St. Johns (near Montreal) and
Frederic con, where all regimental infantry officers
must in future qualify before joining their regiments.
A cavalry school is being organised at Toronto. The
COMMERCE. 11
force consints of voluntcerB with the exception of two
batteries of artillery and the men in training in
the military schools who are regularly enlisted. It
is composed of seven regiments and six squadrons
of cavalry ; three companies of mounted rifles ; two
regiments, five brigades and eighteen batteries of
garrison artillery ; one half-battery of mountain artil-
lery ; three companies of engineers ; and ninety-four
battalions of infantry and riflemen.
COMMERCE.
The Blue-books published by Government must bo
consulted by anyone desirous of detailed information.
We have space to show only the leading facts which
will, even although crudely put, give an accurate idea
of the trade of the Dominion. The value of the chief
staples of export are given separately, for from these
a ready induction can be made concerning the indus-
tries of the country. For the year ending June 30th,
1883, in the whole of the Dominion
The total imports were $132,254,022
The total exports were 98,085,804
The aggi^egate trade, including imports and exports,
was apportioned as follows : —
With Great Britain $99,19^,682
With United States 97,^01,056
showing that, close as Canada is to the United States,
the larger volume of trade is still with Great Britain.
Upon the total value of imports the Customs revenue
amounted to $23,172,308, being an average duty of
17*52 per cent., and an average of $5.26 per head of
the population.
The exports of the produce of Canada, exclusive of
12 THE DOMINION.
products in transit, shipped at Canadian ports, are
thus classified : —
Produce of tlie mine $ 2,970 ,88()
fisheries 8,809,118
" " forest 25,370,72(>
Animals and tlieir pro<ki<'e 20,284,343
A«rrit'iiltural products 22,818,519
Manufactures 3,503,220
A short analysis of these figures will show the
chief employments of the people. Of the produce of
the mine, the export of coal amounted to $1,087,411.
The value of gold in nuggets, dust, quartz, &c.,
exported was $911,383. Gypsum exported, amounted
to $151,844. Copper ore, to $150,497. Iron ore, to
1138,775. Phosphates, to $302,716. The iron ores of
Canada ai-e very pure and are exported to Penn-
eylvania chiefly to oe smelted with inferior ores. The
phosphate trade has sprung up only in recent years,
since the discovery of the enormous deposits of apatite
in the Ottawa Valley.
The chief exports of the fisheries were :—
Codfish, dried $3,653,083
Mackerel, pickled 520,335
Herring, pickled 505,730
Lobsters, preserved 1,478,895
Salmon, canned 1,156,223
The leading items of export classed as products of
the forest were : —
Pot and pearl ashes $ 268,055
Tan bark 321,991
Ideals 8,656,541
Planks 8,022,095
Staves 346,649
Shingles 283,530
Kadway sleei>ers 554,328
White pine timber 2,852,908
Oak 976,330
COMMERCE. 13
The trade in animal products was alwayH largo, but
the export of live stock has assumed much imj)ortance
of late years. The chief items in this group were : —
Horses $1,633,291
Horned cattle 3,898,028
Sheep 1,388,056
Butter 1,705,817
Cheese 6,451.870
Furs 1,087,523
Hides 460,983
Bacon 43(),973
Wool 280,530
Great efforts are being made to improve the manu-
facture of butter and cheese to the highest possible
point. This class of exports, and the export of live
cattle are capable of indefinite extension, as is evident
from what has been previously said of the climate
and rainfall.
Of agricultural products the chief items were : —
Barley 86,293,233
Peas 2,161,708
Wheat 5,881,488
Flour 2,515,955
Hav 902,105
Malt 1,136,700
Potatoes 1,048,954
Besides the above, wheat, in transit from the West-
ern United States was exported to the value of
$5,821,886.
The chief items of manufactured goods exported
were: —
Extract of hemlock bark $305,418
Iron and hardware 319,217
Leather (sole and upper) — 271,140
Boots and shoes 96,815
Ships sold in foreign countries 506,538
Manufactures of wood 540,875
14 THE DOMINION.
The number of sea-going vessels entered inwards
during the year was 10,781. The aggregate of tons
register was 4,004,35*7, of which 2,121,954 were of
steamships.
The inhxnd trade of Canada, upon the rivers and
lakes, is shown by the fact that during last year there
were 17,012 arrivals at inland ports. The volume of
the coasting trade is indicated by a total of 38,244
arrivals in the same peiiod, of which 17,782 were of
steamers.
These are the leading items of the commerce of
Canada taken from the latest Blue-books for the year
ending June 30th, 1883.
Inland Revenue.— This amounted last year to $6,878,-
259, of which $3,902,867 was raised from spirits ;
$405,023 from malt and $1,886,302 from tobacco. The
total amount of spirits manufactured during last year
was 4,281,208 proof gallons. Of tobacco, 9,558,952
lbs. were manufactured, of which 454,922 lbs. were
exported.
National Policy.— In times gone by, it was the policy
of the British Government to foster trade with the
Colonies by a system of differential duties, both in the
Home and Colonial tariffs, against the products of
foreign countries. A wide spread delusion exists that
this was the cause of the American Eevolution. The
real question at that time, if the British people could
have risen to it, was formulated by ex-Governor
Pownall, then a member of Parliament, (who had
served as Eoyal Governor in South Carolina, ISTew
Jersey and Massachusetts) in a work published in
1768 and dedicated to the Eight Honourable George
Grenville, of Stamp Act notoriety. He said "It is
" therefore the duty of those who govern us to carry
"forward this state -^things, to the weaving of this
"lead into our systum, that Great Britain may no
"more be considered as the kingdom of this isle only,
NATIONAL POLICY. 15
" with many appendages of provinces, colonies, settle-
" raents, and other extraneous parts, but as a grand
"marine Dominion consisting of our possessions in
*' THE Atlantic and in America, united into a one
*' Empire, in a one center where the seat of gov-
*'ernment is." The capitals are Pownal's. He
thought highly of his plan. At that moment the
Sibylline books were offered in full tale ; but the fates
were against their acceptance and the opportunity
passed. After the revolution, some abuses of the
restrictive system were abolished in the remaining
colonies ; but differential duties w^ere still continued,
and the theory of an Imperial policy was retained.
In 1846, however, England adopted a national policy
suited to England, and, as business in the colonies
had grown up under a different system, a general
crash and utter collapse of trade in all the colonies
followed. As business revived upon the new basis, the
colonists observed that, w^hile their tariff on imports
was low, the United States tariff* struck with heavy
duties all their exports, but .>s soon as they com-
menced to apply the method of differential duties the
British Government interfered. In Sept. 1850 the
'New Brunswick Legislature sought " to impose differ-
*' ential duties on importations from the United States
*' to the extent of those imposed by that country on
*' importations from New Brunswick." That is, the
colonists, retaining some vestiges of the imperial idea,
soui»:ht to have a British tariff* for Britain and a
United States tariff for the United States. This was
refused in a despatch dated N^ov. 1st, 1850, and the
policy was laid down which has been adhered to ever
since. That was the national policy of England.
The National Policy of Canada was not, however,
clearly formulated until 1878, when the people, by
overwhelming majorities, manifested their will that
a complete and radical revision of the tariff* should be
made. Whether they were wise is not a question to
discuss here. They had been somewhat ostentatious-
16 THE DOMINION.
ly requested to settle their own affairs, and they did
BO. As unmistakably as the E. _,lish people in 1846
declared for a fiscal polic}^ suited, in their opinion, to
the needs of England, so the people of Canada declared
for a fiscal policy suited, in their oj^inion, to the needs
of Canada. These needs could not, when the imperial
idea was abandoned, be identical ; because, in the case
of Canada, the proximity of the United States render-
ed it necessary to take into account the fiscal policy
of that great country. The essence of a National
Policy as understood by Canadians is that it shall be
adapted to the whole conditions of the country for
which it is framed ; while the prevailing school in
England think that a policy which is suitable for
England is also suitable for every other country.
This is a theory held only in England, and, in diverg-
ing from it, the Canadians are in agreement with the
practice of all other nations. They do not believe in
a policy universally applicable, either in finance or
legislation, any more than in a universal garment, or a
universal diet, and hence they have incurred much
criticism. But, in fact, a IN'ational Policy does not
necessarily involve a high tariflp. The tariif may be
high or low, or free on certain articles, as it was for
many years under the reciprocity treaty with the
United States. It simply means that policy which,
in their opinion, shall best promote the interests of
the ]3eople by whom it is framed.
Manufactures.— It is beyond doubt that owing to the
National Policy the manufactm^ing interests of Cana-
da have been very greatly developed. Tables are
given in the census which show the aggregate
amounts of the manufactures for the years 1871 and
1881, but it is doubtful how far reliance can be placed
upon these statements. They are only valuable rela-
tively for comparison ; because the same tendencies
to error owing to the mis-statements of individuals,
would likely exist at both periods to the same degree.
VOLUME OF TRADE.
IT
The number of persons employed would, however, be
as nearly absolutely correct as census figures can be.
Manufacturing Industries.
1881.
$
Amount of capital invested. ... 77,964,020.00165,302,623.00
Value of raw material used. . . . 124,907,846. 00^179,918,593. 00
Aggregate value of productions. 221,617,773.00309,676,068.00
Aggregate wages paid i 40,851 ,009. 00 1 59,429,002.00
Number of persons employed . . ! 187,942
Average wages for each person,
adults or children
254,935
233.11
It is abundantly evident that, although 1871 was a
most prosperous year, the increase has been large.
When the imports and exports for the same years are
compared, there will be found a large increase, viz. : —
1871.
Imports $96,092,971
Exports 74,173,618
1881.
$105,330,840
98,290,823
$1 70,266,589 $203,621,663
Mi\ Patterson gives the following percentage analy-
sis of the imports for a series of years : —
Year.
Imports from
Great
Britain.
United
States.
Other
Countries
1878
1879
1880
1881
1882
Percentage from
(( ((
<i tt
it u
41.04
38.58
48.08
47.57
44.91
53.33
54.44
40.88
40.07
42.87
5.63
6.98
11.11
12.36
12.22
The amount of foreign trade increased in value be-
tween the census years 1871 and 1881 in the same ratio
as the population, viz., 19 per cent. ; but in bulk the
imports were larger, as they consisted more of raw
18
THE DOMINION.
terials, to which the labour of the country afterwards
added value.
This new direction of trade will appear from the fol-
lowing table of the course of the sugar trade, in which
the imports of 1878, the year just preceding the adop-
tion of the National Policy, are compared with those
of 1882 :—
Imports of Sugar.
1878.
1882.
u
u
((
i(
i(
From Great Britain
" United States
West Indies
Brazil
Central America . . .
British East Indies
Dutch East Indies
All other countries
Lbs.
51,187,301
50,394,946
7,534,468
347,700
Lbs.
2,770,089
11,575,426
79,078,494
33,805,480
210,897
1,158,464
6,359,038
371,809
Total 109,464,415 135,329,697
It will be seen that the bulk of the importation
increased 25 per cent. ; but whereas in 1878 all the
sugar imported was manufactured, in 1882 it was
raw sugar from the producing countries. The fact
w^as that under the old tariif sugar-refining had dis-
appeared as an industry in Canada ; whereas now
there are five refineries, employing 3,500 workmen
directly, and a yevy much larger number indirectly.
The trade was transferred, from Great Britain and the
United States, to the West Indies and Bj-azil.
Since the adoption of the National Policy the
cotton industry has grown up, until, in 1883, there
were 20 mills, employing 10,200 persons and distri-
buting annually $1,110,000 in wages.
The increase in manufacturing industries has been
in all directions. Only a few of the leading ones can
be mentioned in our limited space. Woollens, Boots
PUBLIC WORKS. "^ 19
and Shoes, Agricultural Implements, Furnitui'e, Loco-
motives and Cars, Cheese Factories, Edge Tools,
Founding, Hats and Furs, Hosiery, India Kubber,
Nails and Tacks, Oils, Paper, Paints, Preserved and
Canned Foods, Boiling Mills, Sewing Machines, Soap
and Candles, Tanneries, &c. For fuller information
the census and trade returns may be consulted ; or,
better still, the admii'able reports of the Montreal
Board of Trade, compiled by its Secretary, Mr. Patter-
son. A most important fact stated in that report in
this connection is that "in 1881 the total foreign trade
"of Canada was larger in proportion to the population
" than that of the United States ; while the shipping
"of Canada per head of the population was moi'e than
" four times as large."
Public Works— The remarkable river system of
Canada has required a large expenditure of public
money to bring out its full efficiency. From the
entrance to Canadian waters at the Straits of Belleisle
to the head of Lake Superior stretches a water-way of
2,38'4 miles. The difference of level in the whole dis-
tance is 600 feet ; and this is overcome by a series of
canals having a total length of 71^ miles, with 55
locks, and a lockage height of 533 feet. The canal at
the Sault St. Marie is on the United States side, and
is one mile long with 18 feet of a rise. Besides these,
there are two canals, twelve miles in length, on the
Richelieu. By means of these, navigation is opened
up to Lake Champlain and, through the Whitehall
canal, the Hudson valley is reached; making a con-
tmuous water-way to the ocean, at New York, of
45Y miles. By two short canals, the Ottawa Eiver
is rendered navigable as far as Ottawa. Above the
Chaudiere Falls the river is navigated by steamboats
in long stretches with few breaks as far as the Mat-
tawan, a distance of 192 miles. From Ottawa to
Kingston, on Lake Ontario, is the Rideau canal.
Besides these larger systems there are many smaller,
20 THE DOMINION.
such a8 the works upon the River Ti^ent, opening np
160 miles — the Avorks at Rainy Lake, west of Lake
Superior — the short canal far on the east opening up
the Bras d'Or in Cape Breton— and the Murray canal,
without locks, to cut off the peninsula of Prince
Edward in Lake Ontario. Other projects are before
the people, some of them of great magnitude; such as
the Bay Yerte canal to unite the Bay of Fundy with
the Gulf of St. Lawrence — the Georgian Bay canal to
unite the waters of Lake Ontario with Lake Huron —
the Ottaw\a and French River system, to unite the
Ottawa with Lake Huron by w^ay of Lake Nipissing
and French River. Surveys have been made of these,
but no detinite policy resolved upon.
Slides and Booms.— It w\as also necessary, as Canada
depends much upon the lumbering industry, to open
up the streams for floating timber to market. This
has been done by timber slides, booms, and dams too
numerous to particularise here.
Harbours and Breakwaters.— Much of the public
money has been spent upon these. We have given the
extent of the coast lines upon the eastern and western
oceans; but, besides these, the coastlines of the inland
seas have to be taken into account, and their harbours
provided with works. Gales on the gj*eat lakes are
very destructive, and fresh water is as formidable as
salt water, when there is enough of it.
Lighthouses, Telegraphs and Beacons— The great
extent of coast, lake and river navigation has com-
pelled a large outlay on these important objects. The
Canadian Government works 152 miles of cable and
2,566 miles of land telegraph lines. Signal stations
are established along the lower St. Lawrence to Cape
Rosier; on the Magdalen Islands; on Anticosti and
the Bird Rocks in the Gulf; and at Cape Ray and on
St. Paul's Island at the entrance of the Gulf; so that
FORESTS. 21
a ship may be signalled at Montreal the raomen she
enters Canadian waters. The Government also )pei*-
ates the line from Winnipeg to Edmonton in the
North-west ; and the cables and land lines in British
Columbia. The telegraph system on the south shore
of the River and G-ulf of St. Lawrence is complete.
Upon the north shore it will be completed this year
to Point des Monts, and the design of Government is
to continue the line by cable up to the Straits of Belle-
isle on the north shore, which is the northern entrance
to the Gulf.
Total Cost of chief Public Works.— It will assist
much in giving an idea of the objects for which the
four millions of Canadians, who are working out the
destinies of this country, have incurred their present
debt, if the following table of the total expenditures
on the chief items of public works be considered. The
amount is brought down to June 30th, 1882 : —
Cost of construction of canals $48,410,983
" Public Buildings in Dominion 16,549,334
" Harbours and Breakwaters . . 7,875,035
" Lighthouses,Beacons& Buoys 2,872,203
*' Roads and Bridges 7,717,750
" Slides and Booms 1,651,762
" Telegraph and Signal Service . 1,068,421
" Railways (Dominion only)... 90,729,662
The grand total of the sums expended upon Public
Works in the Dominion, not including cost of working
them, is $166,815,771.
This is the capital sum expended upon works of
public permanent utility. It is not capital destroyed,
but capital fixed, which is yielding returns either to
the public revenue directly or to private citizens.
FORESTRY OF CANADA.
Taking a general view of the great forest areas of
the Dominion, some striking facts present themselves.
THE DOMINION.
The line of separation between the wooded and the
prairie countiy west of the Lake of the Woods forms
an abrupt barrier be^ ond which but few of the trees of
Ontario, Quebec, and the Maritime Provinces extend :
whilst the Eocky Mountains are found to be a divide
separating from the rest of the Dominion a forest
flora, which, with few exceptions, is distinctive of
British Columbia, Washington, and Oregon.
There are ninetj'-five species of forest trees in
Canada, of which Ontario, the most southerly of the
Provinces, has sixty-five. Of these, 'all, with five
exceptions, occur in the Lake Erie districts, fifty-two
extend eastward into the Province of Quebec, thirty-
four ai'c found to a greater or less extent on the
eastern and western coasts of Lake Superior ; whilst
only fourteen have been observed to range westward
to the Eed Eiver and the pi-airie country thence to
the Eocky Mountains. On the other hand, thirty-four
species of trees are found in British Columbia, of
which only seven — the aspen poplar (Populus tremu-
loides), balsam poplar (P. balsamifera), canoe birch
(Betula papyi-acea), white spruce (Abies alba), black
spruce (A. nigra), balsam (A. balsamea)and red cedar
Juniperus Yirginana) — extend eastward beyond the
influence of the Eocky Mountains, but these seven are,
with the exception of the red cedar, which is more
limited in range, very generally distributed over the
whole Dominion from the Mackenzie Eiver to Nova
Scotia. Eighteen, or more than one half, of the British
Columbia trees belong to the Conifera? or Pine family.
The leading economic trees of Ontario, nearly all of
which range into the other eastern Provinces, are
Basswood (Tilia Americana).
Red maple (Acer rubrum).
Sugar maple (Acer saccharinum).
Black ash (Fraxinus sambucifolia).
AVhite ash (F. Americana).
Bed elm (Ulmus fulva).
White elm (U. Americana).
FORE-^TRY. * 23
Plane tree (Platanus orcidentalis).
Butternut (Jnglans cinerea).
Walnut (J. nijxra).
Hickory (Gary a alba).
Bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa).
White oak (Q. alba).
Ked oak (Q. rubra).
Beech (Fagus ferruginea).
Hop hornbeam (Ostrya Virginica).
Canoe birch (Betula papyracea).
Black birch (B. lenta).
Aspen (Populus treniuloides).
Aspen (P. grandidentata).
Balsam poplar (P. balsamifera).*
Red pine (Pinus resinosa).
White pine (Pinus strobus).
Balsam fir (Abies balsamea).
Hemlock (A. Canadensis).
Black spruce (A. nigra).
White spruce (A alba).
Tamarac (Larix Americana). .
Arbor vitfe (Thuja occidentalis).
The prominent trees of Manitoba, which province
may be considered as representing the Central Dis-
trict of Canada — are
Basswood (Tilia Americana).
Ash-leaved maple (Negundo aceroides).
Green ash (Fraxinus viridis).
White elm (Ulmue Americana).
Canoe birch (Betula papyracea).
Aspen (Populus tremuloides).
Balsam poplar (P. balsamifera).
Black spruce (Abies nigra).
White spruce (A. alba).
Tamarac (Larix Americana).
In British Columbia the leading; trees, in addition
to the six already mentioned, are
Maple (Acer macrophyllum).
Alder (Alnus rubra).
Oak (Quereus Garry ana).
Cottonwood (Populus trichocarpa).
W^estern bircli (Betula occidentalis).
24 THE DOMINION.
Western scrub pine (Pinus contorta).
White pine (P. monticola).
Yellow i)ine (P. ponderosa).
Menzies' spruce (Picea Menziesii).
Engelmann's spruce (Picea Engelmanni).
Spruce (Abies grandis).
Balsam spruce (A. subalpina).
Western hemlock (Tsuga Mertonsiana).
Williamson's hemlock (T. Pattoniana).
Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga Douglasii).
Giant cedar (Thiija gigantea).
Yellow cypress (Cham^ecyparis Nutkaensis).
Yew (Taxus brevifolia).
Western larch (Larix occidentalis).'
The government of the province of Ontario has re-
cently taken up seriously the question of preserving
and re-planting forests, and of tree-planting upon
the high-roads and farms. The government of Quebec
has also wakened up to the importance of the subject,
and has instituted an ''arbor day" or annual tree-
planting holiday throughout the Province. But the
efforts of those concerned in forestry have hitherto
been turned chiefly towards obtaining more stringent
regulations fo)' ])reventing forest fires and for com-
pelling the lumbermen to woi'k their limits in a
more economical manner. The Forestry associations
throughout the country are doing good, useful work
in calling the attention of the farmers and settlers to
the great and increasing value of wooded land.
THE LUMBER TRADE.
The Lumber trade of the Dominion is still its most
important commercial interest. The products of the
forest considerably exceed in value those of the farm.
The home consumption of lumber is large, inasmuch
as building is chiefly done in wood. The quantity
required for domestic use is estimated at two-thirds of
the total quantity made, the balance finding its way
to England, the United States, the West Indies, and
South America.
LIMBER TRADE. 25
The principal areas of timber lands lie in the Pro-
vinces of Quebec and Ontario. The Pi'ovincc of
Quebec has under license 48,500 square miles, pro-
ducing 2,500,000 pine logs, equal to 380,000,000 feet
B.M., and 1,301,000 spruce logs, equal to 10(3,000,000
feet B.M. ; white and red pine timber, 3,110,000 cubic
feet equal to 37,320,000 feet B.M. ; hardwood, 51,000
cubic feet or 611,000 feet B.M. ; railroad ties, 143,000
pieces, 32 f e 4 each, making 4,576,000 feet B.M. ;
cedar, equal to 4,500,000 feet; pine and spruce, round
timber, 5,760,000 feet B.M. ; besides tamarac, hemlock
and cordwood, in all 540,976.000 feet, giving a gross
revenue of $668,506 to the Province.
The Province of Ontario has 18,000 square miles
under license, furnishing 2,600,000 standard pine logs
equal to 520,000,000 feet of lumber; 6,700,000 cubic
feet of white and red pine, or 81,000,000 feet B.M. ;
dimension timber 23,000,000 feet B.M. ; hardwood,
cedar, &c. ; in all 635,500,000 feet, B.M., paying to
the Provincial Government S547,000. These figures
are for the year 1880-81. The revenue from the crown
lands both in Ontario and Quebec has increased since,
for in 1883 Quebec shows $856,872, and Ontario
$635,447.
In New Brunswick the cut of timber on govern-
ment lands equals 160,000,000 feet, yielding to the
Province $152,000. Prince Edward Island yields
no more than is required for home use. Manitoba and
the North-west territories are sparely provided with
timbei-, and the trade therein is still unimportant.
British Columbia is more amply sujiplied, and as its
facilities for export increase, it must develo]) a large
trade. Its most important timber ti-ee is the Douglas
spruce or Oregon pine, which is the only kind that
has as yet become of economic value. Its wood is
yellow or reddish and coarse grained. It is considered
inferior to the pine of the Ottawa region for finer
kinds of work.
The most highly prized timber in the country is
26 THE DOMINION.
white pine, and the best qualities arc to he found on
the Ottawa I^iver. The Ottawa whit^ pine is justly
famous for its softness, owin<^ to which it can be
easily moulded into the forms required for interior
work. Hut the better qualities are bein^ gradually
depleted, and it is said that the proportion of high
grade pine produced on the Ottawa River is rapidly
decreasing. The production of spruce is relatively
on the increase as a substitute in many ways for pine.
The timber lands held under license are operated
subject to the following regulations: — Licensed lands
are divided into limits commonly of about tifty square
miles each. Upon the sale of a limit the government
retains its proprietary right in the land, selling only
the privilege to cut and cany oi\' the timber. The
purchaser then has to pay a ground rent of $2 per
mile annually. The licenses under which the land is
held are renewable every year, and may be continued
as long as the owner of the standing timber requires
the use of the land for his operations. In addition to
this charge, the timber, when cut and brought away,
is subject to crown dues, which vary according to the
description of the produce. Pine logs pay 15 cents per
standard log of 200 feet, board measure, and spruce
logs pay 10 cents per log in Quebec. In Ontario,
pine and spruce pay 22 and 5J cents respectively.
Operations in the woods are commenced about the
middle of December. Gangs of men are sent up by
the first snow-roads. Arriving on the spot of their
labour, they build themselves chantiers, of rough
logs, and prepare stabling for the horses, to follow
about a month later. The work of felling and haul-
ing goes on till about the 15th March. By that time
the product of the winter's work has been hauled to
the bank of some stream and piled up on the rollway
ready to be thrown into the river. The camps are
then broken up, and the men are paid off. About a
month later fresh gangs of men are sent up the river
RAILWAYS. 27
to tumble in the stuff and drive it to its destination
at the market or tlie mill.
Consequent upon the alteration in the commcreial
]>oliey of Enghmd whieli took ])lace in 1840, tlie trade
in lumber commenced to change its direction towards
the United States. Between the years 1821 and 1832
the total export of productions of all kinds to that
country averaged 83,257,15.3 annually, while in 1882
the trade in lumber alone with the United States
amounted to 810,192,033. This further change also
ensued that whereas in former years the lumber was
exported to England in the shape of large pieces of
square timber ; under the changed })Olicy, sawmills
of larger dimensions and increased capacity sprang up
and the lumber was exported to England as deals and
to the United States as boards. Thus employment
was provided for an additional number of hands in
Canada. The figures of the total amount of export
are given elsewhere.
RAILWAYS.
The Confederation of the British North American
provinces in 1867 opened up new problems and re-
vealed new duties. The summer communications by
waterways would no longer suffice. The existing
railway system w^as sufficient for old Canada, but new
Canada stretched out to the Pacific, and required that
its winter outlet on the Atlantic should be on its own
teiTitory. Then followed, soon after, the introduction
of steel rails and a complete i evolution in trade com-
menced. In the limited space at our disposal it is im-
possible to do more than to indicate the greater
features of the system as it has shaped itself in the
minds of Canadian statesmen.
The railways of Canada may be divided into four
classes.
1. Those roads which may be called local^ contained
within the limits of the separate provinces. These
28 THE DOMINION.
have been aided by the various provincial govern.-
ments and will not be considered here.
2. The Grand Trunk Eaihvay and its branches
which may be called the system of Central Canada.
3. The Canadian Pacitic Eailway which, although
it has its own communications with the sea and has
its own system in Central Canada, may be called the
system of the new AVestern Canada.
4. Those roads reaching from Central Canada to the
sea eastwards and from Centi-al Canada to the Pacific
system westwards which are considered as public
works necessary to the consolidation of the Dominion.
The elassitication is not very exact, but it is conve-
nient for obtaining a general notion of the Canadian
system.
Grand Trunk Railway— This was the first great sys-
tem in oj-der of time. It was originally designed as a
trunk line i-unning from Montreal to Sarnia, with a
branch to Portland as a winter port. The Portland
branch had already been built and was purchased by
the company. The road has been of enormous benefit
to Canada. It runs through the most po2:)ulous and
fertile parts of the country. It was built by English
capital, under English management, although the Gov-
ernment of Canada contributed fifteen millions of
dollars to it. Many and serious mistakes were made
in the inception, building and early management of
the road ; but the country was new and the problems
were strange. The I'oad has now absorbed a large
number of smaller roads until it reaches from Chicago
to Portland and Quebec, and has attained a total
mileage length of 4,534 miles. It owns or controls
three of the most remarkable bridges in the world —
the Victoria Bridge across the St. Lawi-ence at Mont-
real, the Suspension Bridge at Niagara Falls, and the
International Bridge across the Niagara River.
From Montreal, as a centre, the Grand Trunk Eail-
way has a line to Portland with a branch to Quebec.
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RAILWAYS. 20
It controls the Vermont Central line to Boston and
N V London, connecting with the New England
.system. By a branch to Eouse's Point it connects-
with the New York roads; and by a branch to Dundee
it is reaching out to the system of Western New York.
At Coteau a little west of Montreal, it has a bi-anch to
Ottawa; ai Belleville it branches out into the Midland
system ruuiing to Georgian Bay on Lake Huron with
several sub- branches. At Toronto it has annexed the
jrreat Western system of roads of which the most
important termini are Detroit, Buffalo and Niagara
Falls. At London it spreads out into a net woi-k of
roads touching the lakes, north, south and west, at
many points, and connecting at Buffalo eastwards
with the great roads of New York and Pennsylvania,
From Port Huron it has built the Chicago and Grand
Trunk Eailway by which it reaches that most import-
ant city of the Western States, Chicago. It is an
enormous system of railroads rather than a railway ;
and lv2) manager has an important position among the
railway kings of the continent.
Th«^ Canadian Pacific Railway.— This gigantic enter-
prise vvas a necessary coroMary of the confederation
of British America. It is also the shortest route across
thf .tinentand the one by the lowest passes of the
Rocky Mountains, and lastly it is the road which
opens up to the English emigrant the greatest amount
" "^ "" i-tile land available for settlement at the least dis-
tance from his native country. This last consideration,
at the time of a great outbreak of land hunger in the
')^ . world, gives a social importance to this railway
tqual to its commercial and politici^l importance.
In 1871 the Dominion Goveniment commenced the
preliminary surveys. In 1872 the first charter was
granted, and at the close of that year the ministry
resigned and the charter fell thi^ough. The new
ministry resolved to continue the enterprise as a gov-
fernment work. In 1878 a change occuiTed and
30 THE DOMINION.
Sir John A. Macdonald again became premier. Par-
liament decided that it was advisable that the rail-
way should be constructed by private enterprise, but
in the meantime work was continued upon certain
parts of the road. At last in 1880 a contract was
entered into with the present company who assumed
all the work done and undertook to complete the road
by the year 1891.
From the first this railway was considered a national
work and parliament gave large assistance to the
company both in money and land.. It was stipu-
lated that for twenty years no other railway should
be chartered to run to the south or southeast, nor to
within 15 miles of the international boundary. Other-
wise the enterprise might have been strangled by
United States lines and the elfort^^ and sacrifices of the ^
Canadian people would have been rendered fruitless.
These sacrifices had been enormous and the country
is still spending large sums, in many ways, to de-
velope the vast resources of the great Northwestern
TeiTitory. The company set to work with amazing
vigour, and now the road is open from a point 100
miles east of the head of Lake Superior to the summit
of the Eocky Mountains far eaj-lier than the date
agreed upon. On the Pacific side it is built from Port
Moody to Lytton, and is advancing rapidly to Kam-
loops. From Montreal the line is open (beyond Sud-
bm*y) 105 miles west of Lake Nipissing, and, by a
branch, to Algoma on the north shore of Lake Huron.
The intervening section on the north fehore of Lake
Superior is being pushed on rapidly and will probably
be completed in twelve months.
Upon the least reflection it must be evident that an
enterprise of such magnitude could not be dependent
upon any other corporation, or have its policy con-
trolled by any other railway which might possess the
main issues of commerce. In short it could not be
bottled up in the interior of the continent.
At Winnipeg, as a centre, all the interior roads
RAILWAYS. 31
converge. A glance at the map will show that until
the line north of Lake Superior is completed all com-
munication in winter must be by waj^ of St. Paul,
Chicago, and Detroit through the peninsula of Ontario.
Montreal, from its geographical position, is the centre
and the ideally most diiect and nearest point through
which westei-n traffic can pass to the sea-boaid. The
Company made Montreal and Winni2)eg therefore
their chief centres of operation. But Toronto could
not be ignored, tirst, because it is the political and
business centre of the most populous and influential
Province of the Dominion, and second, because during
the summer season, until the road north of Lake
Superior is finished, all the trade between Ontario and
the North-west is most conveniently carried on by
steamers (jonnecting jjorts on Geojgjan Bay north of
Toronto with the head of Lake Superior.
The Company therefore found it necessary to occupy
Toronto and Detroit. A Canadian system of railways
omitting Toronto would be like the play of Hamlet
with Hamlet omitted. Consequently the road which
they have built to connect Montreal and Ottawa with
Toronto is open now to the public. To connect with
Georgian Bay, the Toronto, Grey & Bruce system of
roads was purchased, and thus a complete summer con-
nection through Canadian territory with the far west-
ern Provinces w^as secured. Pending the completion
of the road it was necessary to make the connection as
complete in winter. For that purpose the Company
purchased the Credit Valley Railway from Toronto to
St. Thomas where it connects with the Canada South-
ern, and is now building a more direct line from Inger-
soll on the Credit Valley road to Detroit and thus
securing an independent winter connection with the
plexus of roads south of the lakes w^hich centre there,
and providing an outlet for business from the western
and south-western States by way of its Toronto and
Montreal road.
In summer Montreal is the sea-board — there remains
32 THE DOMINION.
now to consider the route of the great trans-continen-
tal line in winter. By the purchase of the South
Eastern Railway, communication with all the New
England ports was secured. But the people of Cana-
da had made too many saciiiices to be content with
any but a Canadian winter port. Therefore the Com-
pany are now building a line from West Farnham to
Sherbrooke. There it will make friendly connection
with the International Railway directly east (over the
Ashburton surrender) to the New Brunswick roads —
to the sea-board at St. Andrew's or St. John — or per-
haps when the visions of its projectors are realised by
the Gi'eat Short Line to the long wharf of America at
Louisbourg, wiiere nine hundred years ago the North-
men landed from their little vessels, and where fishing
craft from western Europe congregated one hundred
years before Cham plain founded Quebec.
This is the main outline of a great idea which is on
the eve of realisation. It has come gradually into the
minds of the Canadian people. It is one worthy of
their parentage. The dreams the fathers dreamed ai-e
waking realities to the children. These things are
possible in a new country. There is no land-hunger.
Every immigrant arriving, settling, and doing well
pays the cost of a detinite portion of the railway which
carries him to his farm, feeds him while he is
struggling and canies his surplus to market when he
gets strong. This is a condition of things peculiar to
a young country and which cannot occur where the
land is already occupied. So long as the country
opened up is fertile and easily obtainable by settlei's
all other questions are of minor importance. Great
social questions are being worked out here without
the aid of dynamite.
The main line, wiien finished, will be about 2,899-
miles; the portion at present completed and oper-
ated is 2,105 miles, of which 144 miles is on the
Government section from Port Moody eastward. The
following is a summary of the total mileage of the
RAILWAYS,
33"
Canadian Pacific system and branches up to June,
1884 : —
Eastern Division — Main line— Miles. Miles. Miles,
Montreal to point beyond Sudbury. . . 470
Branches —
Brockville 45^
Aylmer 7
St. Jerome 11
St. Lin '. 15
St. Eustache 8
Atlantic and North- West. . . . b}
Algoma 96
AVestern Division — Main line —
Nepigon to summit of Rockies .
Beyond summit
Branches —
Emerson
Pembma Mountain
Gretna
South- Western
Stonewall
Selkirk
Emerson and West Lynn ... .
Ontario Division —
102
14
51
18
22
20J
• • • •
St. Thomas to Toronto (C.V.R.)
Streetsville to Orangeville (C.V.R.). . .
Church's Falls to Elora (C.V.R.)
Owen Sound to Toronto (G.T. & B.). .
Tees water to Orangeville (G. T. & B.)
Toronto to Smith's Falls (0. & Q.). . .
122
35
27
121
70
211
188
1,458
35
658
294 1,787
586
Grand Total
586
3,031
Government Roads.— These roads are mostly in the
east and extend from Halifax to Quebec with branches
to Pictou and to St. John, under the name of the
Intercolonial Eailway. The Prince Edward Island
3
34 THE DOMINION.
Eailway runs throughout that island in its whole
length. These two roads are worked by the Govern-
ment. But certain other roads, important as links in
uniting the vaiious systems, have been subsidised,
such as the International from Sherbrooke in Quebec
eastward to the boundary line. A railway to connect
the Canadian Pacitic at Callander with the Ontario
system at Gravenhurst and several minor lines with
similar general objects have also been subsidized.
This necessarily short sketch must suffice. A stud 3^
of any good railway map is the best method of learn-
ing the intricacies of the great railway system of
Canada — a system as bold as the canal system and
which shows that the statesmen of Canada of the last
and present generation possess that most impoi'tant
qualification of all — faith in their country.
SCIENCE, LITERATURE AND ART.
Under the Confederation, by the provisions of the
British North America Act, the subject of Education
was I'eferred to the separate Provinces. Each Prov-
ince has its own system with its own Superintendent
and Normal Schools, and even its own Colleges or
Universities. These are in no way interfered with
by the general government.
There are, however, some Dominion institutions
which properly should be considered here, as dealing
with scientific matters. During last year the Depart-
ment of the Interior spent $5*7,83^ on the
Geological Survey of Canada.— This survey was com-
menced in 1841, and, fortunately for the country,
was placed under the care of an enthusiast in geologi-
cal science, a gentleman of private means, trained to
business, a Canadian, well known in after years as Sir
William Logan. Mi*. A. Murray, who afterwards
directed the survey of Newfoundland, was appointed
assistant. Mr. T. Sterry Hunt, who had been trained
SCIENCE AND ART. 35
under Dr. Silliman, was appointed chemist and mine-
ralogist ; and, later, Mr. E. Billings, who had been
trained for the Canadian Bar, but whose whole soul
went out towards science, was made pahi3ontologi8t.
These men, all endowed with special natural abilities,
and all enthusiasts in science, soon won for the Geo-
logical Survey of Canada a brilliant reputation
throughout the scientitic world. Since then, the field
of work has widened and the modest grants of early
days have been increased largely. The museum and
the offices have been removed from Montreal to Otta-
wa where a large staff is engaged in inquiries which
are now extended over all the natural sciences. The
reports published contain a mine of information con
cerning the Natural History and Geology of the coun-
try, and the museum is one of the chief attractions
of Ottawa.
Meteorological Service.— This is in the Department
of the Minister of Marine, and upon it $42,294 were
spent last year. The telegraph and signal stations
along the coasts of the seas and lakes are worked by
a numerous body of skilled men under the superin-
tendence of Mr. Cai*pmael whose headquarters are at
Toronto. Storm warnings and weather probabilities
are posted in stated places all over the Dominion and,
as the telegraph stations extend across the continent,
the information is most valuable to the community.
Mr. Carpmael is also Director of the Magnetical Obser-
vatories in the same ministerial Department, upon
which government spent $9,696 last year. The chief
observatories are at Toronto, Montreal, Kingston,
Quebec and St. John, N. B.
Royal Society of Canada.— This association origin-
ated in the mind of the Marquis of Lome, who, dur-
ing his administration, never ceased to interest him-
self in the intellectual and artistic advancement of the
country. It was organized in four sections : — 1st,
36 THE DOMINION.
French Literature, HiHtory, and Ai-clueology ; 2nd,
English Literature, History, and Archaeology; 3rd,
Mathematical, Chemical and Physical Sciences; 4th,
Geological and Biological Sciences. Each section has
twenty members, including a President, Vice-Presi-
dent and Secretary. A President, Vice-President and
Secretary are also elected for the Society. The tirst
members were nominated by Lord Lome and the first
meeting was held in May, 1882. Meetings are held
annually, when papers are read and elections held for
officers, and for new members when vacancies occur.
The Society has published a large quarto volume of
transactions.
Royal Canadian Academy of Arts— If the Marquis
of Lome has left in the Koyal Society of Canada a
memento of his interest in the intellectual advance-
ment of Canada ; the artistic leanings of II. R. II. the
Princess Louise have left their mark in the foundation
of the Academy of Arts. It consists of 31 Academe-
cians and 55 Associates ; and embraces the Arts of
Painting, Sculpture, Designing and Architecture.
Under the supervision of the Council of the Academy
annual exhibitions are held in the chief cities of the
Dominion in rotation, where pictures painted during
the previous year by Canadian artists are exhibited,
and prices are affixed in the catalogue to those which
are for sale. Several young Canadians now studying
in Euroi)e send pictures to these exhibitions. The
President, Mr. L. R. O'Brien, is a painter in water-
colours, whose works take probably the highest rank,
and at Ottawa Mi\ Harris' painting of the '' Framers
of the Confederation Act" will show what has been done
in historical painting in oils. Mr. L. P. Hebert's sta-
tue of Sir George Cartier will answer for an instance
of the best which can be done in sculpture, and Mi*.
Bourassa's frescos at Montreal may be taken as spe-
cimens of what has been done in religious art. These
names are given not because there are no others of
LITERATURE. 37
equal merit, but because there are probabl}' none of
Muperior merit in each branch, and from their work a
stranger may furm a judgment an to the present state
of art in ('anada. There has been a marke<l advance
.since the institution of the Academy. A visitor will
be able in passing through the cities to form his own
ideas upon the state of Architectui-al Art.
Literature— This subject is conveniently arranged
under three heads English Literature, French Litera-
ture, both taken in a strict sense, and the Literature
of Science. The peculiar circumstances of the two
races in Canada have produced a remarkable ditference
in their literature. The English race, in close and
incessant relation with England and the United States,
has been oppressed in its literary et!brt by tlie weight
of the great literatures of these two countries. The
oft quoted sneer "who rea<ls an American book?"
shows how recently literature in the L'nited States at-
tained its majority. The same causes increasingly tend
to depress native English literature in Canada, to which
must be added the provincialism which necessarily
clings to communities so recently united into one
political organism — a provincialism not confined to
the smaller provinces or to the less important politi-
cians. From this it results that the English Canadi-
ans have not succeeded in establishing any magazine
or review which has lived for any length of time,
excepting such as are the organs of a political party
or a religious denomination. Many promising
attempts have been made but so far without success.
Yet there is no dearth of good writers in Canada and
many good works have been wi'itten in Law, Politics,
History and Poetry, but they cannot be said to have
won wide reputation abroad.
Under the head of French Literature more has been
done in comparison. The French in Canada are the
children of ante-revolutionary Finance, and a great
gulf in thought and feeling separates them from the
38 THE DOMINION.
France of to-day. Passionately attached to their
language and religion their national existence found
expression in their literature, which lived its life
unshadowed by any influences from without. The
education in the colleges, which are all under ecclesi-
astical management, has always been mainly literary
and the French in Canada, besides being as a rule
good speakei'S, have produced very many excellent
works in history, fiction and poetry which have found
acceptance in France, and have received merited
praise from acknowledged literary authorities there.
A few years ago the Academy of France awarded the
Monthyon j)rize to a volume of Canadian poetry.
In the literatui'e of Science the English Canadians
have taken very high rank outside their own country.
In Geology, Palaeontology, Chemistry and the Natural
Sciences generally the names of British Canadians are
known not only in the United States and England,
but on the continent of Europe, and their waitings
may be found in many foj-eign scientitic periodicals.
One cause of this strong tendency towards science is
no doubt the practical character of the English Cana-
dians, and another is the fact that the sciences in the
English colleges are taught by laymen who have no
other profession to divide their energies.
Music :— In speaking of the music of Canada, any
reference to a generic or distinctive style must, of
necessity, apply to the popular songs of the Province
of Quebec. In no other part of the Dominion does
the music d iter from that found generally throughout
the English speaking countries of North America ; but
among the French Canadians there exists a peculiar
kind of composition known as Chansons PopulaireSy
and closely related in foi-m and spirit to the minstrelsy
of Europe. These Chansons, or Songs, may be divided
into two classes — those of foreign and those of native
origin.
The songs of the first class, transplanted from Brit-
MUSIC. 39
taDj and Normandy, and other provinces of France^
some two hundred years aii;o, or more, by the French
missionai-ies and early settlers of Canada, retain, as a
rule, the forms they then assumed. They belong to
that common gemts of minstrelsy, or folk-song, now
so commonly heard in the north of Spain, in France,
in some of the cantons of Switzerland, in Scotland, in
Ireland and in Wales, the original melodies of which,
it is generally believed, have descended from those
Celtic hordes who invaded Northern Europe in the
early ages of the Christian era. In connection with
this minstrel music it may not be out of place to say
that the peculiarities of rhythm and tonality which
everywhere characterise it, exist, to a very consider-
able extent, in those genuine African melodies sung
by the negroes of the Southei-n States ; and did not the
results of philological investigations render such a
relationship, if not impossible, at any rate highly im-
probable, it might almost be claimed that these latter,
also, belong to the gi-eat family of Euroj^ean folk-
song.
The songs comprised in the second class — those of
native origin — are, it is easy to perceive, but the
natural outcome of a close familiarity with those of
foreign growth. Both are the spontaneous, but rude
and uncultivated expression of ??incere, unaifected
emotions and sentiments. Crudities and absurdities
often appear in the verses, and irregularities and
monotony in the melodies ; yet, despite these serious
defects, there is in these strange productions so much
true poetic sentiment and so much tuneful energy,
that their popularity with the people who sing them
and the attraction the}' possess for the lover of
research are easily accounted for.
Much might be said respecting the literary and
poetical worth of the vej'ses employed for these
songs. The limits of this chapter, however, allow no
reference to them. Mr. F. A. H. La Eue has contri-
buted to the Foyer Canadien, (Quebec, Yol. I. 1863,
40 THE DOMINION.
and Vol. III. 1865,) two interesting and comprehen-
sive articles, entitled Chansons Populaires et Histor-
iques, to which the curious reader is referred for
further information. So little has been written on the
subject that Mr. La Eue's researches are invaluable,
while his manner of telling what he has discovered
is singularly pleasing and conclusive.^
The chief peculiarities of the melodies of these
native songs are, First : the manifest absence of
musical knowledge on the part of those who invented
them ; Second : their irregular rhythm, scarcely
a melody being without one or more interpolated
bars in a different time from that of its general
measure; Third : the musical modes employed, which
in most cases ignore the " leading notes " of the
modern scale, and frequently produce effects that are
harsh and disagreeable to cultivated ears.
In melodic beauty these airs, as a class, do not com-
pare favourably with the national airs of Scotland and
Ii'eland, or even of Wiles. Nevertheless, they have
decided characteristics, and their robust vigour usually
atones for any deficiency in beauty. There is about
them the flavour of the woods, the lakes and streams,
the hills, the valleys, the winter days, the summer
nights. They portray with rare vividness the sports
and pastimes, the family gatherings, the social usages,
the religious ceremonies and feelings, in short the
complete national life of the people. It w^ould be
impossible to find elsewhere so true a reflex of the
habits and modes of thought of the French Canadian
peasantry as these songs afford.
The boat-songs may almost be said to constitute a
style distinct in itself. They are commonly wi-itten
with alternate strains for a single voice and chorus,
and the spirit, healthiness of tone, and actual grace-
* Nearly everything published relating to these national songs, in addi-
tifon.to the two Reviews by Mr. LaRue, may be found in the Repertoire
National, the Chansotinier des ColUgea, and Mr- Ernest Gagnon's collec-
tion of airs with words, Chansons Populaires, all Quebec publications.
MUSIC. 41
fulness of the airs surp'^ss those found in any of the
other styles.
Although, as ah-eady intimated, these native songs
have been inspired in part by those fiom over the
seas, it is to Canadian life and Canadian scenery that
they chiefly owe, not only their existence, but, also,
their unquestioned superiority, in freedom ot form
and natuialness and breadth of expression, to their
foreign relatives. The adventures of the chase, the
perils of the rapid rivers, the grandeui* of the lofty
mountains, the unbroken silence of the impenetrable
forests all awaken emotions that best tind utterance in
song. The emotions of a people like those among
whom these remarkable songs are produced, ardent in
temperament and susceptible in natui-e, must, neces-
sarily, be strong and deep. To this fact, doubtless,
we are indebted for many of these curious etforts to
clothe in music and verse thoughts and feelings
worthy, it may be, of a better guise.
Mr. LaRue, in one of the reviews already referred
to, relates, among other interesting facts, the signifi-
cant one, that several of these poems of undoubted
French origin have, at various times, entirely disap-
peared from their native country, and, after a lapse of
several decades, have been recognised in Canada by
French travellers, and subsequently revived in their
ancient home.
The discovery in one country of songs lost many
years before by another is, in itself, no remarkable
occurrence ; but when the songs so discovered reflect,
with the unequalled truthfulness and fidelity peculiar
to themselves, customs and manners of a certain age of
which they may be the only preserved record, the
importance of the discovery and of its possible results
is manifestly increased.
Following the thought to its fuller limit, in its con-
nection with those singular lyrical productions which
have formed the subject of this chapter it is not
too much to say, that, in years to come, when the
42 THE DOMINION.
faithful histoi'ian shall have gathered together the
material for their true and completed story, we shall
find that not the least interesting, nor, indeed, the
least valuable page in the record of oui' national life
will be furnished by the Chansons Populaires of the
Province of Quebec. J. G.
POLITICAL DIVISIONS.
Having thus endeavoured to obtain a general view
of the Dominion it will now be convenient to consider
the provinces separately, commencing from the East.
There are seven provinces, (Newfoundland has not
seen fit to join the Confederation) viz. :
Nova Scotia, including Caj)e Breton.
New Brunswick.
Prince Edward Island.
These form what are commonly called the Maritime
Provinces — formerly Acadia.
Quebec, including Anticosti and the Mag-
dalen Islands.
Ontario.
These are known as old Canada, formerly Upper and
Lower Canada, New France, or the Province of Quebec.
Manitoba.
British Columbia.
All these seven are provinces proper, and send
representatives to the general Parliament at Ottawa.
They have, of course, legislatures of their own, and
their governors are nominated by the general Govern-
ment at Ottawa. Besides these, there are the follow-
ing ten-itories all governed by one governor and
council for the North-West, nominated by the Domi-
nion Government :
Keewaydin, or Northwest Territory.
Assiniboia.
Saskatchewan.
Alberta.
Athabaska.
-AREAS AND DISTANCES.
4a
The last four extend from west of Manitoba to the
Eocky Mountains. Keewaydin is not defined. Its
boundaries in one direction are in dispute between
Manitoba and Ontario.
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE SIZE OF THE GREAT LAKES
OF THE WORLD.
Elevat'n
iLencrth Brea'th Depth above
miles.
Lake Superior . . . ' 460
*' Michigan...! 330
** Huron ' 260
*' Erie 250
*• Ontario.... 180
** Winnipeg . 280
" Manitoba... 120
** Winne]:)ego-
sis 120
'* Ladoga, the,
largest!
lake in I
Europe.... ....
miles, feet. sea.
170
90
110
60
60
30
16
17
800
700
700
200
600
* * * *
(
• • • • {
• • • •
600
576
574
565
235
650
670
692
Area in
square
miles.
31,500
22,000
21,000
9,000
6,400
8,500
1,900
1,936
6,190
Tables of Distances. Statute
miles.
Liverpool to Straits of Belle Isle 2,234
'* Louisbourg, Cape Breton . 2,708
" Halifax, N.S 2,910
** Quebec via Belle Isle 3,060
. «* '* St. Paul's 3,242
** Montreal via Belle Isle 3,220
« New York 3,563
Montreal to Straits of Belle Isle 986
Ottawa, by rail 120
** Toronto " " 333
** Owen Sound, by rail 455
** Niagara.... ' " 415
•* Sault St. Marie, by water 1,000
** " " via Toronto & Owen Sound . 681
44 THE DOMINION.
Montreal to Port Arthur via Toronto & Owen Sound 987
Winnipeg " " .... 1,344
*' New York 400
*' Halifax via Intercolonial RR 847
Winnipeg to Port Arthur. 429
St. Paul's 410
'' Regina 356
" Calgary 839
" Stephen (summit of Rockies) 960
" Savon a's Ferry, Kamloops 1,250
" Port Moody, Pacific 1,465
Owen Sound to Port Arthur 530
By Ocean steamer embarking at Liverpool and landing
at Montreal 3,220
By Inland steamer embarking at Montreal and land-
ing at Port Arthur 1,278
By Canadian Pacific route, IMontreal via Toronto and
Owen Sound, to summit of Rockies 2,304
Montreal to Port Moody 2,893
ACADIA.
L'^ eadie is the euphonious French name for the
Maritime Provinces of Canada, now called ^N'ova Sco-
tia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. The
word is derived from a Micmac word Cadie, signifying
a place of abundance, and, as used by the Indians,
was always qualified by another word expressing the
thing which there abounded. Quoddy, a word fre-
quently met with in localities on the Bay of Fundy,
is a Malicete form of the same word. In the charter
for the settlement of the country, granted b}'' Henry
TV, to deMonts, it is styled La Cadie, and this name
is not only historically proper, but conveniently
applicable to all these provinces, for they are similar
in climate, soil, productions and people. Such subtle
differences in manner and appearance as may exist
among the people can be distinguished only by one
long resident in the country. Acadia is, in the true
fitness of things, the proper place in the New "World
at which an Englishman should land. Nova Scotia^
especially, is mildly American ; and the transatlantic
mind may there collect itself, after the sea voyage,
before encountering the oppressive superiority of
Boston, the cosmopolitan indifference of New York,
or the exuberant metaphors of the irrepressible West.
The track across the ocean, which a steamship from
Liverpool to Halifax follows, has been a highway
for many centuries. Before William the Norman,
landed in England, while Canute the Dane was king,
the ships of the Norsemen of Iceland and Greenland
visited the waters of Acadia and coasted its shores.
It was in the year 1000 that Leif Erikson landed in
46 ACADIA.
Nova Scotia, (Markland he called it), probably near
Oape Sable. After him, came Thoi-vald Erikson and
Thorstein Erikson with his wife Gudrid ; and then
followed Gudrid again with her second husband
Thorfinn, and Freydis ; and in A. D. 1121 Bishop Erik
Upsi and others, until, in 1347, the '' Black Death "
scourged the North and almost depopulated Norway,
Iceland and Greenland. Thenceforth they ceased to be
swarming hives of adventurous freebooters. But the
geographical knowledge acquired was not lost ; and
when, in 1477, Columbus visited Iceland, the sagas
still extant, in which the deeds of the old Norse
sailors are recorded, had been written ; and the tradi-
tions of Helluland, Markland and Yinland were in the
memories of the older men.
The restless maritime energy of the Norsemen pass-
ed into the Normans of Dieppe and the Bretons of
St. Malo ; and especially into the Basques of Bayonne,
St. Jean de Luz and St. Sebastian. These latter were
the whalers of th*^ fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
and, in following the whales as they became scarce in
the Bay of Biscay, out into their far ocean haunts,
they came upon the Banks of Newfoundland, then
as now teeming with fish. Jacques Cartier on his
first voyage found a vessel from Eochelle on the coast
of Newfoundland. She was looking for the harbour
of Brest, a place then well known on the coast of
Labrador at which Cartier also called. He found the
coast named already until he came to Anticosti.
Cabot, who first coasted the mainland of America in
1497, may well have been ante-dated by some of
those daring whalers and fishermen who as early as
1504 are known to have thronged the harbours of
Newfoundland and Labrador. Therefore, on the very
earliest maps Newfoundland (supposed to be a group
of islands) was called Baccalaos, the word for cod-
fish in the Basque tongue, from whence it passed into
Spanish, Portuguese and Italian.
Early in the 16th centuiy the English took up the
HISTORY. 47
whale fishery ; but they had to employ Basques as
harpooners, until they themselves acquired the requi-
site skill. They spent their energies in the Northern
Seas, and named all the shores of Hudson's Bay and
Davis' Straits and northwards with English names, in
their vain endeavoui's to find a north-west passage
to the Indies. Other pjnglishmen became great free-
booters, like Drake, Hawkins and Cavendish, and
fought the Spaniards in peace or war wherever they
found them, in the West Indies or in the great South
Sea. But the Spaniards and French chiefly worked
the fisheries in these early days, and French and
Spanish Basques caught whales in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence as far up as Tadousac, and traded for furs
long before Champlain's time, probably as far up
the river as Hochelaga. Basque and French memories
linger all round the coast, and bear witness to the
present day to the maritime enterprise of cities whose
glories have departed, and whose silent quays and
empty warehouses tell of nations who were not equal
to their opportunities.
In history it is the improbable which happens.
The philosophy of history has many attractions. It
is so easy to look backwards and demonstrate how
everything necessarily happened just as it did. To
look forward, however, and verify the philosophy
by successful prophecy, is the true test of a science.
He would have been a bold prophet who in the
seventeenth century could have looked at a map of
North America and prophesied that in 200 years it
would be the greatest Anglo-Saxon country in the
world. All Canada and Acadia were French. The
Fi-ench posts occupied all the Ohio valley. The
Spaniards occupied Florida and claimed the Caro-
linas. The Dutch occupied New York. The Swedes
occupied the Delaware. Only in Virginia and New
England had the English race a footing. But they
did the work which lay before them manfully, steadily
and quietly, for if there were political weather pro-
48 ACADIA.
phets then their vaticinations have not been pre-
served.
Acadia was colonised by the French. Before
Champlain founded Quebec, he, or rather his compa-
nion Poutrincourt, founded Port Royal, now Anna-
poliw, in Nova Scotia. The expedition sailed from
Havj-e in 1G04 under the command of deMonts, to
whom Henry lY. had granted the privilege of trade.
Champlain sailed with him — a brave and experienced
captain, who had spent two years and a half in the
West Indies and in Mexico, and had made a voyage to
Tadousac and gone up the St. Lawrence as far as
the present Montreal. He was indeed an acquisition-
to the expedition. They made land at Le Heve,
which still bears that name, and coasted along, touch-
ing at Port Mouton, Cape Sable, St. Mar3^'s Bay, Long
Island, all names still clinging to these places. Then
deMonts separated to explore another part of the
Bay, and Champlain continued coasting until he
entered the harbour, now Annapolis Basin. He called
it Port Royal, for it was " one of the finest har-
bours he had seen in these lands." It was not until
the following year that they settled there. The win-
ter of 1G04 was passed at St. Croix, an island a few
miles above St. Andrew's, near the junction of the
river St. Croix with the sea. In 1G05 they crossed the
Bay, settled at Port Royal, and Poutrincourt founded
the first permanent settlement of Europeans on the
Western Continent north of the Spanish fort at St..
Augustine in Florida.
The romantic history of the French settlement can-
not be given here in detail. Nor can we do more than
allude to the remarkable characters who figure in
this interesting though little known history of a
remote colony ; to Membertou the great sachem, ta
Poutrincourt, to d'Aulnay Charnissay, to La Tom^
and his heroic wife, to the Baron de St. Castine,
the brilliant young officer who left his regiment in
Canada and married the daughter of Madockawando
HISTORY. 49
and became a great Indian sachem on the Bay of
Fundy. Nor can we stop to relate how the English
repeatedly plundered and sacked Port Koyal ; and
how they claimed Acadia, sometimes as a part of
Virginia, and sometimes as a part ot Massachu-
setts. No matter what went on in Europe, there
was seldom peace in America in those days. The
kings of England, Fi-ance and Spain granted charters
and commist^ions, and made claims, which overlapped
each other by many hundreds of miles. Nothing but
confusion could follow, and the French and English
and Indians harried each othei* without cessation.
The French were still settled in different parts of
Nova Scotia when James I. granted in 1621 the
whole of Acadia to Sir William Alexander, in which
charter the name Nova Scotia first appears. In 1625,
Charles I. confirmed the grant, and added with
impartial ignorance Anticosti, Nantucket, Martha's
Vineyard, and parts of Canada. The only traces of
his royal bounty now remaining are the Baronets of
Nova Scotia and the imaginary claims of Earls of
Stirling. This order of Knights Bannerets still exists
in Old Scotland, a heidtage of certain noble families.
It possesses an escutcheon, motto, insignia and dress,
but no land ; and Nova Scotia knows nothing of them.
The English had taken Acadia and Quebec in 1629
but in 1632, by the treaty of St. Germain en Laye,
both were restored to France. But in 1654, in a time
of peace, the English Commonwealth, ruled by Crom-
well, and the Massachussetts Commonwealth, again
seized Acadia. Cromwell as Lord Protector granted it
to Sir Thomas Temple and two others, but again it
was restored to France by the treaty of Breda in
1667 . In 1690, Sir William Phipps conquered it and
Massachusetts claimed it under a charter of King
William III. ; then follows a confused and turbulent
history of border feuds until in 1713 the whole of
Acadia with the exception of Cape Breton was ceded
by France to England. An English governor took
4
50 APADIA.
lip his residence at Port Royal which thenceforth
became Annapolis. Not lon^* after, commenced the
dinpute as to the houndarics of Acadia, followe<l by the
btniggle for the Ohio valley, tinally leading np to
the conqnest of Canada.
After the cession of Acadia in 1713 Cape Breton, or
Isle Koyale as it was then called, became of vital
imj)ortance to Franco as the key of the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, and consequently of Canada. Therefore
Louisbourg was founded upon a magnitieent harbour,
and a fortress of the fiist class was erected there.
The French monarchy devoted what strength it had
to spare from its European schemes to Canada,
Cape Breton and Louisiana. The English colonies,
on the other hand, were yovy little thought of by
their monarchs; but they possessed free self-govern-
ing legislatures, containing within themselves all the
possibilities of growth. Thirty years later came the
inevitable collision, and now the Islands of St. Pierre
and Miquelon alone remain of all the magnificent
empire of France in America.
The subsequent history of Acadia will be alluded to
in the sketches of the several provinces. The name
Nova Scotia now superseded the ohl French name.
New Brunswick was the county of Sunbury, until
1784, when it was erected into a province under its
present name. Cape Breton, in the same year was
made a separate government, and in 1820 it was re-
annexed. In 1784 also the Island of St. John was
separated from Nova Scotia, and in 1799 the name
was changed to Prince Edward Island, after the Duke
of Kent who was much beloved by the settlers.
There were several places called St. John in British
America and much confusion resulted therefrom.
The Acadian provinces from that period remained
separated until united into the Dominion of Canada.
After this sketch of the general history of Acadia it
will be convenient to consider it under its four natu-
NOVA SCOTIA. 51
ml divisions, viz., Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Princo
Edward Island, and Now Brunswick.
NOVA SCOTIA.
The peninsula of Nova Seotia is 275 miles long by
100 miles in hreadth at its broadest part; but, to the
length of the Province 100 miles must be added for
the island of Cape Breton which belongs to it politi-
cally. The area of the entire province is 20,907
Sfjuare miles. It presents to the ocean a bold and
rocky front, studded with islands, and abounding
with excellent harbours. Dividing the peninsula by
the line of watershed running through its whole
length at the centre, the south-eastern half, look-
ing towards the Atlantic, is composed of Cambrian
rocks, w^ith intrusions of granite at Halifax, Shel-
burno and Musquodoboit ; while the north-western
half consists of Silurian and carboniferous strata
edged on the shore of the Bay of Fundy by a
bold and lofty ridge of trap rock 600 feet in height,
on the inner side of which flows the Annapolis river.
This remarkable border of protecting rock is called
the North Mountain. On the opposite side of the
river is the South Mountain running parallel. The
portion of the peninsula which connects it with the
rest of Acadia is divided by the Cobequid Mountains,
1,100 feet high, which separate the streams flowing
into the Basin of Minas from those flowing into North-
umbei-land Straits. The coast line is deeply indented
with inlets so that no part of the province is distant
more than 30 miles from the sea.
Soil.— The interior of the province along the divid-
ing ridge is a broken country, and the south-eastern
part, as a rule, is not adapted for farming although it
contains much good land. On the south-west side,
however, the land is very rich. The valley of the
Annapolis Eivor and the land around the Basin of
52 ACADIA.
Minas is proverbial for its fertility. The high tides
of the Bay of Fundy have produced marsh soils of
inexhaustible richness ; for they bear with them an
alluvium which renders manuring unnecessary. The
land also on the Gulf of St. Lawrence side is good.
The province abounds in lakes, none of them large,
where good fishing is to be had. The Cobequid
Mountains are clothed with forests which produce
abundance of excellent timber. The energies of the
Nova Scotians have always been directed rather to
ship-building, fishing and mining, than to farming ;
although, from the western part of the province,
there has always been a lai-ge export of agricultui*al
products of all kinds.
Climate.— The climate of Nova Scotia is very conge-
nial to old country settlers. It is not so cold in
winter, or so warm in summer, as the rest of the
Dominion. It is changeable according as the winds
blow from the continent or from the sea. The wind
from the south often comes loaded with vaj^our from
the warm waters of the gulf stream, which condenses
into fog along the coasts of the Atlantic and the Bay
of Fundy. These fogs ai-e not enjoyed by the Cana-
dians of the inland provinces, but the fresh com-
plexions of the Acadians bear witness that they are
conducive to health. Ponce-de-Leon, instead of search-
ing for the fountain of youth among the lean and
wrinkled alligators of the tepid morasses of Florida,
should have looked further north. A dip into a cool
fog in the summer and a diet of succulent oysters,
pugnacious lobsters and nutritious codfish, is the
nearest thing which the world affords to the fountain
of rejuvenescence. There is more rain in the Acadian
provinces than in Canada owing to the proximity
of the ocean. In the south-western pai't of the Pro-
vince sheep are pastured out all the winter.
^''nerals.— Nova Scotia abounds in valuable min-
erals. In the tmbriaL, an along the Atlantic coast,
NOVA SCOTIA. 63
gold is found in considerable quantity. During the
last year the export of gold from Nova Scotia mines
amounted to $279,735. Gypsum is largely mined.
The export last year to the United States amounted
to 138,081 tons. Iron is abundant and the ores are of
superior quality.
Coal.— The coal fields of Pictou and Cumberland are
very well known. In the latter section the Spring-
hill coal mine is reached by the Intercolonial Eail-
way. The coal field of the Pictou district has been
long and extensively worked. The two main seams
of the Acadia mines give a thickness of 18 feet and 11
feet respectively of good coal. At the Albion mines
a section of the main seam gave 36f feet of coal
including a thickness of twenty three inches of inter-
stratified beds of ironstone, and a section of the deep
seam gave 18J feet of good coal. Tha larger portion
of the coal raised is consumed in the Dominion.
During the year ending June 30, 1883, however, the
exports to foreign countries amounted to 216,805 tons
from the whole province of Nova Scotia, including
Cape Breton. The known productive coal fields of
Nova Scotia cover an area of 685 square miles. The
Nova Scotia coals are much esteemed for gas pm^-
poses and were it not for the heavy tarift' would be
(as they were formerly) used in the United States to
a very much greater extent.
The whole of the mines of the province were in
1826 leased by the Crown to the Duke of York, who
transferred the lease the following year to the General
Mining Association of London. This corporation
worked the coal mines of Pictou and Cape Breton for
many years, but disputes arose between it and the
Provincials until at last, in 1857, the Association gave
up its claims to all unopened mines upon receiving
an undisputed title to certain areas in the coal fields
of Cape Breton, Pictou and Cumberland. New com-
panies were then organised who work the mines, now
4*
54 ACADIA.
under Provincial laws. All the coal of !N"ova Scotia
is bituminous. Further particulars of these coal areas
will be found under the notices of the respective
localities. There are things to be seen in the mines
of this province which cannot be seen elsewhere in the
world. SirChai'les Lyell crossed the sea twice, mainly
for the purpose of visiting them, and in his "Student's
Elements of (reology," chapters 23 an<l 24 show what
an important position the coal measures of Nova
Scotia hold in the domain of science.
Gold.— That half of the Peninsula of Nova Scotia
which faces to the Atlantic is, as has been stated
Cambrian with large areas of granite. In this section,
throughout its whole area of about 6,500 square miles,
numerous lodes of gold-bearing rocks have been found.
The gold occurs in quartz veins in the Cambrian
strata. When the auriferous nature of the rocks was
discovered in 1860 there was great excitement, which
calmed down in time to a steady industry. As a gen-
eral thing, however, this is not carried on by the most
approved methods. The largest yield in any single
year was in 1807, when 27,314 oz. of gold were ex-
tracted. Since then the product has varied. In 1883,
it was 15,446 oz. Woik is now carried on in about
twenty ditferent localities. The avej-age yield per
man per day was $2.84 in the whole of the mines
w^orked during that year.
Iron. — Iron occurs in many places, but it is worked
only at Londonderry and at New Gla8gow\ There it
;s found in an immense vein of ankerite 30 to 150
feet wide^ holding brown hematite and extending for
many miles. Last year the Steel Company took out
52,410 tons of ore.
Fisheries.— At the last census 24,636 men were
employed in the fisheries in 755 vessels and 13,214
boats. The fish caught are cod, mackerel, herrings,
HALIFAX. 55^
salmon, halibut, haddock. The product of canned
lobsters for that year is given at 3,841,476 lbs. The
value of the fisheries of the province was estimated for
the year ending June, 1883, at $7,621,500.
Population.— The population of the entire pi'ovince,
including Cape Breton, is 440,572. Of this number
117,487 are Eoman Catholics, 60,255 are Church of
England, 112,477 are Pj-esbyterian and 50,780 are
Methodist. There are 41,219 Acadian French in the
province and 40,065 of German descent ; these last are
mostly in Lunenburg county. The Scottish element
preponderates in the remaining part of the popula-
tion. Immigration to Nova Scotia has been very
scanty, therefore of the total population 414,647 are
colonial born.
Education.— Dalhousie College, at Halifax, is the
chief institution of the province. Acadia College, at
Horton, is connected with the Baptist denomination ;
King's College, at Windsor, is in connection with the
Church of England. The Normal School is at Truro.
The public schools are free. The number of public
schools in operation last year was 1943, with 2011
teachers and 81,863 pupils, or 1 in 5 of the population.
HALIFAX.
The drum-beat of Britain, which, to adapt the elo-
quent words of Daniel AYebster, once followed the
morning round the world, ceases its proud roll at this
city — the portal of the Dominion of Canada. For here
is the last English garrison upon the AYestern Conti-
nent. — kept here, we are carefully assured, not out of
regard for any antiquated colonial prejudices, but
solely because of the importance of Halifax to Eng-
land as a naval station and a coaling depot. Let the
English visitor, then, listen to the morning drum-beat
and take a last look at the uniform of his country's
56 ACADIA.
soldiers, for be will not hear the one or see the other
again, if he follows the morning for very many
thousands of miles, across the continent, and over the
broad southern ocean, until he arrives at the island of
Hong-Kong. At Halifax, however, he will be thor-
oughly at home. From the citadel, as on the Queen's
ships of war in the harboui-, the British flag still flies
without the escutcheon of the younger Britain embla-
zoned upon it. The familiar uniforms will be seen on
the streets and on the wharves. The people will not
seem strange, and if, as is frequently the case, that
favorite Haligonian dissipation, a regatta, is going on,
he will see that, though colonial born, they have all
the nautical instincts of the British race.
The city of Halifax was founded in 1749. It was
the first permanent settlement of Englishmen in Nova
Scotia ; for, although there had been an English gov-
ernor and an P^nglish garrison at Annapolis since
1713, and English fishermen frequented the coast and
assembled in the harbours, there had been no serious
attempt to colonise the country. The seat of govern-
ment was then transferred to Halifax, and Governor
Cornwallis. who came out in command with the first
settlers, again called upon the Acadians to take the
oath of allegiance to the British Government. The
Acadians were very uneasy at the aiTival of the Eng-
lish, and their deputies brought to Cornwallis an
address, from 1000 persons, containing this very
remarkable sentence, " What causes us all very great
'' pain, is the fact that the English wish to live
" amongst us. This is the general sentiment of the
'' undersigned inhabitants." Seeing that the province
had been an English possession for thirty-six years,
such a sentiment, expressed to a British governoi*, did
not promise a peaceful time for the new settlers. The
Indians fully sympathised with the Acadians, and, as
the English settlements spread along the coast to
Lunenbui-g and Liverpool, the tomahawks and scalp-
ing knives of the savages found constant emj)loyment,
HALIFAX. 5*7
thus provoking an exasperation which resulted in the
Acadian deportation and the punishment of the inno-
cent with the guilty among the French inhabitants.
During the war which followed, Halifax grew
rapidly. Here Wolfe's fleet assembled for the subju-
gation of Louisbourg and for the capture of Quebec.
Then followed the American revolution, and troops
and war-ships crowded the streets and harbour.
When Howe was compelled to evacuate Boston in
1W6 it was to Halifax he retired. His fleet and
army made the little town very lively for a while.
During the war of 1812-15 Halifax was again a centre
of naval activity and, until recently, there were old
residents who could remember the excitement when
the Shannon towed the Chesaj^eake into the harbour
as a prize, and broke the spell of success which
seemed until then to attend the United States navy.
Such times as these have happily passed away ; but
the dockyard, and the forts, and the citadel tell of the
former years of bitterness and warfare.
The population of Halifax, inclusive of Dartmouth,
is 40,340. It is essentially a maritime and commer-
cial city, doing a large trade in the export mainly of
products of the fisheries, of gypsum, coal, and lum-
ber, and carrying on, by the ships owned there, a con-
siderable foreign trade. In the year ending June,
1883, the imports were $7,206,885 and the exports
$5,002,929. Since the completion of the Intercolonial
Eailway it has become the winter port of the Domi-
nion. Manufactures are now springing up and, lately,
a large sugar refinery has been established there. The
city contains a lai-ge proportion of wealthy people.
It is not so progressive as some of the other cities of
the Dominion, for the fact of its being so important a
military and naval station in past years has not been
an unmixed advantage. Large expenditures for mili-
tary purposes do not confer the lasting benefits which
result from permanent productive investments, and
58 ACADIA.
the attention of youth is apt to be drawn away from
commeicial enterprise.
The liarbour is justly celebrated for its safety and
commodioiisness. Lying close to the great ocean
highway, between Europe and America, it is admir-
ably adapted for a port of call or a port of refuge. The
inlet extends fifteen miles into the land. In front of the
town the harbour is one mile acj'oss, and, beyond the
narrows, Bedford Basin expands into a sheet of water
ten square miles in extent where the largest ship may
lie close to the shore. There is no bar at the mouth
of the harbour. The average depth of water is eight
to ten fathoms, and in its very shoalest part it is 24
feet deep at low w^ater. The tide rises six feet, and
the largest vessels can lie afloat at the wharves. It is
accessible at all seasons of the year. The Cunard
line, the first line of ocean steamers, was projected by
a Haligonian, Sir Samuel Cunard, and here all the
steamers touched during the early years of the enter-
prise. Eegular lines of steamers sail for Bermuda
and St. Thomas, connecting at the latter port with all
the "West Indian lines. Steamships of the Allan line
for Liverpool and St. John's, Newfoundland, call here
en route for Baltimoi-e, Md., and Norfolk, Ya. The
Anchor line connects with St. John, N.F., and Glas-
gow. Then there are steamers for Boston and New
York; for Sydney, Cape Breton ; Canseau, N.S. ; and
Charlottetown, P.E.I.
The entrance to Halifax harbour upon a clear day
is very striking. On the right is McNab's Island, and
beyond it the east' n passage, not available for large
vessels, guarded by Fort Clarence on the Dartmouth
shore; on the left is a bold shore surmounted by
York redoubt and the telegraph station. Then Point
Pleasant with its charming park, the seaward point of
the peninsula upon which the city is built, is seen in
front. To the left of it runs the north-west arm and
to the j'ight is the harboui-, with George's Island
armed to the teeth in the centre of it, raking the
HALIFAX. 59
entrance. Above the city, which is built upon a rocky
declivity sloping somewhat stee])ly down to the
water's edge, is the citadel. Far up tlie harbour are
the NaiTOWs hiding the beautiful Bedford Basin,
which suddenly expands its tianquil surface, securely
land-locked and deep enough for men-ol-war close to
its shores.
Visitors from the United States always inspect the
citadel; from the old world, where citadels are plen-
tiful, visitors are not so curious in that diiection. The
view, however, from the citadel, taking in as it does
all the environs of Halifax, is well worth the attention
of strangers. A drive round by the park at Point
Pleasant and along the Northwest Arm should be
taken. This is one of the most picturesque sheets of
water in the Dominion. The villas on its shore and
Melville island, in a pretty bay at its head, add to the
general etfect and make the drive very enjoyable.
Halifax is full of memories of the Duke of Kent,
father of Queen Victoria. The site of the Prince's
lodge on Bedford Basin is still pointed out ; ani he it
was who laid the tirst stone of the citadel. The
town is resonant with military and naval names : the
Queen's Dockyard, the Admiral's House, the Artil-
lery Barracks, the Ordnance Whaif, the Wellington
Barracks, and the forts which protect the harbour
give a martial character to Halifax which no other
Canadian city besides Quebec possesses — but we can
never foi-get that in Quebec the morning drum-beat
of the Im})erial isle is heard no more.
Dalhousie University is an impoitant institution. It
is unconnected with any religious body. There are
seven professors in the faculty of arts and thirteen in
that of medicine.
The Province Building is a handsome building con-
taining the chambers of the Legislature, the library
and the archives of the Province. The new Provin-
60 ACADIA.
cial Building contains a museum where may be found
a valuable collection to illustrate the resources and
natui'al history of the Province. The Post Office is in
the same building.
Halifax abounds in charitable institutions of all
kinds and in churches, notable among which are St.
Paul's chui'ch and St. Mary's cathedral. Here also
are the seats of the Anglican Bishop and the Roman
Archbishop of the Province.
Strangers interested in the question of food fishes
will see a large variety at the Fish Market, and al-
though such places are no where very inviting to the
ordinary tourist, they are not overlooked by those
who travel for information.
Beautiful drives and walks abound at Halifax. The
Public Gai'dens on Spring Garden road are very well
kept and are a pleasant refuge in summer from the
heat. The Park at Point Pleasant possesses a singu-
larly attractive site. The old Martello tower is a
picturesque object.
Hotels.-The chief is the Halifax hotel in Hollis
street. Near it is the International hotel. The
Wavei'ley hotel is an exceedingly good semi-private
hotel but it is not large. It is very pleasantly
situated.
Clubs.—The Halifax Club has a very well appointed
club-house on Hollis street.
EXCURSIONS.
From Halifax by railway the traveller may proceed
in four directions. 1st. To Windsor on the Basin of
Minas, and down the Annapolis river to Yarmouth on
the south-west; 2nd. To Truro, and thence to Pictou
on Northumberland Strait, whence he may cross to
Prince Edward Island ; 3rd. By the same route as far
as New Glasgow, whence he may branch off, on the
WINDSOR. 61
Eastern Extension Road, to the Gut of Canso, en route
for Cape Breton; or 4th. Directly along the main lino
of the Intercolonial through New Brunswick to Que-
bec. On this route he may diverge at Moncton to
St John.
TO YARMOUTH VIA WINDSOR.
The trains of the Windsor and Annapolis Railway
leave the Intercolonial Railway Depot. This line
commences properly at Windsor Junction where the
traveller will see for a little distance a piece of
country, the hump of Xova Scotia, which will give
an idea of what the world might have looked like after
some great wash-out in primordial times. After
ten miles of such land the country improves a little
and the train passes near the Uniacke gold mines.
At Newport large quarries of gypsum exist, and
the annual export hence, mainly to the United States,
is the chief business of the inhabitants. At last^
after an uninteresting drive of 45 miles, the traveller
aiTives at
Windsor, a town of 3,019 inhabitants upon the Avon
river. This is a beautiful place, or the contrary, ac-
cording to the state of the tide ; for here the visitor
will meet the remarkable tides of the Bay of Fundy.
He will have, if the tide is out, a thoroughly satisfy-
ing view of an amazing area of red fertilizing slime;
and, if the tide is in, he will see one of the prettiest
pieces of water in the country. He will realise here
with Charles Dudley Warner how important water is
in the make-up of a river.
Still Windsor is a pretty town and the country
around it is fertile. It exports also much fertility to
other soils in the gypsum which abounds in the
neighboui'hood. Here was born, and here died, Judge
Halibui^ton, better known as " Sam Slick the Clock-
maker," the author of many humorous books. Here
62 ACADIA.
is situated the first college founded in the Province-
King's College, with six professors, founded in 1788,
under the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
The professors must belong to the Anglican Church
but no religious tests are required of the students.
The country around Windsor was settled vory early
by the French, but after the Acadian deportation
their vacant lands were tilled up by a population from
Massachusetts and Ehode Island. Immediately around
Windsor the land was granted to British officers and
fortifications were erected which have crumbled away.
After leaving Windsor the train crosses the Avon
upon a bridge, v^eiy costly on account of the stupend-
ous tides of the river. For some distance the bank of
the Avon is followed through a rich country abound-
ing in gypsum and freestone. Falmouth and Hants-
port are prosperous villages where shipbuilding is
carried on to a considerable extent. After passing
Horton the train crosses the Gaspereaux rivei* and
arrives at
Grand Pre.— This is the classic land of Evangeline —
"" In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas,
Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pr4
Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the
eastward.
Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without
number.
Dykes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with
labour incessant,
.Shut out the turbulent tides, but at certain seasons the
flood-gates
•Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the
meadows.
AVest and south there were fields of flax, and orchards, and
cornfields
Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain, and away to
the northward
Blomidonrose."
The traveller may now verify the accuracy of the
word-painting.
GRAND VBt. 63
THE ACADIANS.
The object of the Poet's art is not so much to relate
the exact truth as to tell a touchini!; and beautiful
etoiy. Mr. Lon<rf'ello\v'rt ''Evangeline" is an illustra-
tion of Bacon's adage that '* the mixture of a lie doth
always add pleasure." And so the dealings of the
Britisli Government with the Acadians have been exhi-
bited to the world as a wanton and utterly unjustifi-
able outrage. To those Nova Scotians, of English
descent, who have heard at their grandmothers' knee
the story of the tirst settlers at Halifax and Dart-
mouth, the matter appears in a totally ditfei-ent light,
as a stern and bitter necessity of a cruel war. Into
this question we cannot enter, tempting though it be,
and we would refer those who may wish to follow it
up, to a volume i>ublished by the Nova Scotia Govern-
ment in 1869. It is entitled " Selections from the
Public Documents of the Province of Nova Scotia,"
by Thomas B. Aikens. In this excellently edited
volume the documents themselves are allowed to tell
the story. The notes are few and merely explana-
tory — mostly biogra2)hical. The poem of "Evange-
line " is, however, a ver}^ beautiful one, and the des-
criptions of sceneiy are true to nature. The Acadians
were very deeply attached to the soil of Nova Scotia,
and many wlio w^ei-e expatriated returned aftei* their
wanderings. Some of them settled in Gaspe, in
•Canada. The settlers who came from France to
Canada were mostly Norman or Breton ; but the
Acadians were fi-om the south-west — from Saintonge,
Eochelle and adjacent places. In 1719 there were
about 500 families in the province. In 1755 there
were probably 8000 or 9000 Acadian French, of whom
not more than 3000 were expatriated by the British
-Government. At present there are in Nova Scotia
41,219, in New Brunswick 56,635, and in Prince
Edward Island 10,751 persons of French descent.
They form a most valuable portion of the population.
64 ACADIA.
Cheerful, contented, polite, and laborious, they ai-e
everywhere respected. They do not intermarry wi h
the English, and, at some jjlaces such as Chezzetcook,
they had until lately retained the peculiar dress of the
peasantry of Old France. A study of some of these
settlements, in the middle of an English community but
with cure and notary of the old days and with man-
ners, customs and religioii so different, is interesting to
a speculative politician. There is nothing in conser-
vatism like it on this continent. The Acadians were
strongly attached to the Eoman Catholic Church, as
they still are. They came of the same stock which, as
Huguenots, so obstinately resisted the dragonnades of
Louis XIY. But no question of religion caused the
deportation by the English, for the Acadians enjoyed
the most absolute freedom of worship. It was not in
Acadia as in Canada. There were no schools nor col-
leges of any kind, and the people were very ignorant
and entirely in the hands of their political leaders.
Many of them were peaceable and harmless, but many
would not even sell supplies to the English. At Grand
Pre 1900 persons were collected by Colonel Winslow,
a Massachusetts officer, who was in command. He
burned the village — houses and barns, "^hurch and
grist mills — and broke down the dykes. The troops
on this service were all Massachusetts men of hard
Puritan stock. They belonged to a regiment raised
for special service in America. The men of the Aca-
dians were collected separately and ordered to embark.
This they refused to do without their families, but
they were driven on board at the point of the bayonet
in the sight of the weeping women and children*
The women and children followed in other transports,
and no care was taken that the families should be re-
united. For this there could be no pretext of excuse.
That was in 1755. Twenty years later and the
whole family of Winslow were hunted out of Massa-
chusetts. Proscribed royalists, they shared the fate of
the Acadian loyalists. Their own property was con-
WOLFVILLE. 65
iiscated or destroyed, and they had to make new homes
upon the rocky shores of the St. John. The Winslow
stock was the oklest and staunchest of the original
Plymouth Rock settlement and had filled the highest
offices in the Commonwealth. Many of them were
rewarded by the British Government with grants and
some with pensions, but the poor Acadians, scattered
homeless and penniless through the English colonies
among a race of alien tongue, found no sympathy
from their heartless monarch or his frivolous cour-
tiers. Every American loyalist had in King George
III. a personal, sympathetic friend. If any one in the
American colonies is at any time heard to speak
slightingly of King George, he will turn out not to be
colonial born.
Wolfville. — After leaving Grand Pr^ the train passes
through \Yolfville, where is situated the University of
Acadia College, founded and supported by the Baptist
denomination. Then the valley of the Cornwallis
River is reached through a beautiful countjy. From
Windsor, up the Cornwallis and down the Annapolis
valleys, is the garden of Nova Scotia — rich in soil and
mild in climate. The road now continues in the
depression between the South and x^orth Mountains,
referred to elsewhere. At Kentville is a flourishing
town of 3000 inhabitants, and a succession of pretty
villages is passed until Bridgetown, on the Annapolis
Eiver, is reached, which is a place of some importance
as the head of steamboat navigation on the river. If
the tide is out, the tourist will not see any river. The
water may be away down the bay, but it will come
and make the valley look charming in its setting of
parallel, hilly ranges ; and, what is better, will float
any vessels which may be sitting up waiting for it.
One of the oddest sights to a stranger is to see a little
steamer sitting up in the mud, blowing off steam and
whistling with haste to get her freight aboard, as if
she were going straightway overland, while there is
5
e6 ACADIA.
not watei" enough to float a chip. But in Ave minutes
up it comes, and she is oft*. Passing down the left
bank of the river the train arrives at
Annapolis, tlie ancient and venerable capital of Aca-
dia — the oldest town [north of Florida] in America,
and it would be difficult to find one prettiei*. The
beauty and security of the situation struck the eye
of Champlain — the clearest-headed Frenchman who
ever trod the shores of the New World. It is the
quietest, the most restful place which can be ima-
gined — a very sanatorium for a shattered nervous
system — quieter now than even 150 years ago when
there was a garrison, sometimes French and some-
times English ; and w^hen the English were always
burning out the French, excepting when the French
were entrapping the English and the Micmacs were
scalping them — quieter even than in the winter of
1600-07, when the clever, light-hearted Parisian law-
yer, Lescarbot, and the Baron de Poutrincourt, and
Hubert, the apothecary, who represented science, and
Champlain, who organised the " ordre de bon temps,'^
and their friends, Catholic and Huguenot, had such an
excellent time in this Acadian "Forest of Arden."
There was no scurvy there, for game was abundant,
and the lively Frenchmen exhausted their culinary
skill upon it — before the Cavaliers had founded James-
town or the Puritan Fathers had set up their ecclesi-
astical tyranny, called by a vivid metaphor a "theo-
cracy," at Salem. Then was " le bon vieux temps" of
Henry lY., before the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes had set Frenchmen at each others' throats in
France. In Acadia, as in Canada, no man was ever
molested in the name of religion. It was not quite
upon the site of the town, however, that the first fort
was built ; it was on the opposite side, a little further
down the Basin.
The town of Annapolis Eoyal contains 2,833 inhabi-
tants. It is almost sui'rounded by water, for it is
YARMOUTH. &J
built on a peninsula projecting into the basin which
lies tranquil among the bills protected from all winds.
The water is deep and the shores bold. The IN'orth
Mountain range protects it from the fog and wind of
the Bay of Fundy, and the opposing range protects it
on the east. The fortifications still remain, picturesque
and ruinous. Far up the valley are seen the dyked
meadow-lands of the Acadians, and down, towards the
south, the high lands round Digby are hazy in the
distance.
The railway ends at Annapolis. It is to be contin-
ued round the Basin, 20 miles, to meet the Western
Counties Eailway at Digby, but meantime the travel-
ler must take the steamer which makes a daily trip to
that town. From Annapolis there is a regular steamer
leaving for St. John, New Brunswick, U2:)0n alternate
days (distance 45 miles). It is a very pleasant route,
A weekly steamer leaves also for Boston. The short
trip down the Basin is enjoyable.
Digby. — A town of 1,879 inhabitants, occupying a
picturesque site opposite Digby Gut, which is the
name of the naiTOW opening in the precipitous trap
cliffs through which the tides rush in and out from
the Bay of Fundy. It is a favoui'ite summer resort,
being free from fog and sheltered by the hills. This
town has given its name to the celebrated Digby
herrings.
The Western Counties Railway to Yarmouth runs
along the coast of St. Mary's Bay through the town-
ship of Clare. This township is settled by Acadians
who returned after their exile, and, finding their old
locations on the Basin of Minas occupied, took up land
here. It is a most characteristic community. Long-
fellow's description, in " Evangeline," will apply to
them to-day as fully as it does to the Acadians of 120
years ago. This unchangeable conservatism is a phe-
nomenon in the western world. After a run of 67
^ ACADIA.
miles the train arrives at Yarmouth —the jumping-off*
place of Nova Scotia. The interior of the country is
a hunting and fishing region — wild and studded with
lakes. It is broken and unfit for farming.
Yarmouth is a city of 6,200 inhabitants — the most
maritime town perhaps in the world ; for it is doubt-
ful whether a single person can be found there who is
not, directly or indirectly, interested in a vessel. The
instinct for maritime enterprise here amounts to genius,
for, though the harbour is poor, the soil rocky and
stej'ile, and there is no back country to depend upon,
the people are rich and thriving by their foreign com-
merce. The tonnage owned in this small place amounts
to 118,922 tons. There are 3,469 persons who are
owners of shipping. Eetired sea captains find here a
paradise, for the proximity of the Gulf stream makes
the weather very changeable, and speculation upon
that subject is always in order.
FROM HALIFAX TO PICTOU
Travellers take the Intercolonial Eailway, and at
Truro the Pictou branch diverges from the main line.
If all parts of i^ova Scotia were as charming as the
North West Arm or the Annapolis valley the effect
would be too monotonous, and so, in going to Pictou,
the aesthetic sense is allowed a short period of repose.
There is nothing specially to remark upon until the
ti'ain arrives at
Steliarton, forty miles from Truro. The Albion coal
mines are reached at this station. The population of
the place is 1,881, all connected in someway with the
mines. Two miles further on is
New Glasgow. Population 2,595 — engaged in manu-
facturing and shipbuilding. A Siemens' furnace, be-
longing to ine Nova Scotia Steel Company, is at
piCTOu. 69
work here making steel plates. There are also rolling
mills and glass-works. The Nova Scotia Eailway
(formerly the Halifax and Cape Breton Eailway)
branches off here for Antigonish and the Gut of
Canso. The train now continues along the East river
(8 miles) until Pictou Landing is reached, from
whence by ferry the traveller crosses to the opposite
side of the harbour to the town of
Pictou. Population 3,403, is situated upon an inlet of
Northumberland Strait into which three rivers — the
East, the Middle, and the West rivers fall. It has by
far the best harbour on the northern shore of Nova
Scotia, sheltered and commodious — from five to nine
fathoms deep and with 20 feet of water over the bar
at low tide. Unlike the harbours of Halifax and St.
John it freezes over in the winter. The coast is low,
but the scenery up the valleys of the rivers is pretty,
and the bathing on the beaches is good. There is
much good farming land in the vicinity but, as the
meadow lands on the opposite coast of the Province,
were more inviting, the French never made any
settlement here. It was first settled in 176*7 by six
families from Philadelphia, but the immigration which
stamped a peculiar character on this part of the Prov-
ince was the band of Highland Scotch which arrived
in 1Y73. They landed in full highland array in kilts
and with bagpipes in full blast. Never had the like
been heard in Acadia. The Micmacs, who had pre-
viously been hanging i*ound for scalps, fled, terror-
struck at the sound, and from thenceforth gave no
trouble to the settlers in those parts. The ^' medicine "
of the ba^-pipe subdued them. The immigration
continued from Scotland and the great majority of
the people are Scotch and Presbyterian. This ener-
getic stock has made Pictou county one of the most
productive farming counties in Nova Scotia. The
town has made great progress in manufacturing, and
does a coasting trade by vessels built and owned
70 ACADIA.
there. Education is very carefully looked after, and
with academy and schools and museum, and library
and newspapers, the people of Pictou are admirably
provided with educational facilities.
Steamers leave Pictou regularly for Charlotte town,
P.E.I., for Port Hood in Cape Breton, and for the
Magdalen I-^lands. The Gulf Port line of steamers to
Quebec leave from here, touching at all the principal
ports in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Pictou is, how-
ever, chiefly remarkable as the outlet of one of the
most important coal fields of Nova Scotia.
Pictou Coal Mines.— These mines first began to be
worked in the year 1807. As explained elsewhere, in
1825 all the mines in the Province passed into the
hands of the General Mining Association of London,
which commenced in 182Y to raise coal on a large
scale and with scientific appliances. This monopoly
continued until 1856, when the Company abandoned
all their claims and were allowed to select four square
miles where they pleased. They chose the locality
known as the Albion Mines at Stellarton, and event-
ually sold out to a new company called the Halifax
Company.
The area of the coal field at Pictou is 35 miles, but
the beds are so thick and so accessible that their
importance is out of proportion to the area. At the
Albion Mines there is a section of 2,450 feet of coal
measures holding 100 feet of coal. The thickness of
the seams of the lower group are as follows in order
of depth :— 34 ft. 7 in., 22 ft. 11 in., 5 ft. 1 in., 3 ft.
6 in., 3 ft. 3 in., 12 ft., 5 ft., 11 ft., 10 ft. There are
sixteen seams known but these are the chief. It is
the main seam of 34 feet which is generally worked.
In the neighbourhood are ako the extensive mines
worked by the Intercolonial, Acadian and Yale Com-
panies. The total sales of coals last year from the
Pictou mines were 4G1,809 tons, of which 260,980
tons were consumed in the Dominion.
TO CAPE BRETON. 71
NEW GLASGOW TO THE GIT OF CANSO.
This is the usual route to Cape Breton. A train
leaves New Glasgow on the arrival of the train from
Halifax. The country is uninteresting, and has been
only recently cleared. At Merigomish are mines of
coal and iron. Forty-one miles from New Glasgow is
Antigonish, a thriving town of 3,500 inhabitants,
nearly all Highland Scotch in nationality and Roman
Catholic in religion. Here the tourist may enjoy the
noveltv of healing sermons in Gaelic from the cathe-
V CD
dral pulpit. Many of the older people speak no other
language. Tall, strong people they are, and their vil-
lage is one of the prettiest in Eastern Nova Scotia.
The streets are clean and planted with shade-trees.
The houses are tidy and bright. This town is a
bishop's see, and all the saints who have it under
charge are good old Scotch saints, without any Saxon
mixture — St. Ninian, St. Columba and St, Margaret,
Queen of Scotland. The large college is named after
St. Francis Xavier, perhaps because the older saints
were not so strong in scholarship as in the more use-
ful arts of clearing up land and reducing a wilderness
to order and civilization. The countrv around is an
unfailing resort for hunting and fishing. The high
land of Antigonish Mountain gives it variety. The
harbour is shallow and at a distance from the village.
Cattle, butter and gypsum are exported from this
place. The road continues on through a thinly settled
country to
Tracadie, an Acadian French village, situated in a
fertile district. There is a monastery of lifty Trappist
monks here, who are expert farmers. At 39 miles
from Antigonish is
Mulgrave Wharf, on the Gut of Canso. Here is the
ferry to the Island of Cape Breton.
72 ACADIA.
HALIFAX TO QUEBEC BY THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY,
For nine miles aftor leaving Halifax the railway
skirts the shores of Bedford Basin. Completely land-
locked and hidden from any but the most careful
search it was, in old times, a noted haunt of bucca-
neers; and, to this day, it would not surprise any resi-
dent on its shores if Capt. Kidd's hidden treasure were
dug up. Th*8 treasure is in several other harbours
also on the coast. It is one of the myths cherished by
this otherwise practical people. At Bedford the road
turns inward to
Windsor Junction.— Here divei'ges the Windsor and
Annapolis Eailway. At
Shubenacadie, the river of that name is reached. In
the early days of Haliftix a canal was projected to
connect this river, which falls into the Basin of Minas,
with the Atlantic at Halifax. A very feasible scheme,
if the cost had been provided for, because of the many
intervening lakes ; but it fell through. To the east is
a broken countrj^ frequented by moose-hunters and
anglers. The road continues through a good farming
country, although from the cars it may seem rough,
until it reaches
Truro.— He^-e the branch for Pictou diverges. This
was an old Acadian settlement, and the dykes in the
meadows date from the French times. It is the centre
of a rich district, and possesses the attraction of being
an educational centre as well, for the Provincial,
Normal and Model schools are here. There are also
many manufactures carried on, and these, added to
the exceeding beauty of the site, make Truro the most
important place after Halifax in the province. The
town has a population of 3,463. It is situated at the
head of Cobequid Bay, a part of the Basin of Minas.
It is 62 miles from Halifax.
THE INTERCOLONIAL. 73
After leaviner Truro the train beo'ins the ascent of
the Coboquid Mountains, following up the valley of
the Folly Iliver, which it crosses on a viaduct 600 feet
long and 82 feet above the river, until the summit is
reached at Folly Lake, 607 feet above the sea. At
Londonderry is a railway to the Acadia Iron Mines,
where are situated the works of the Canada Steel
Company, who have blast furnaces at work aud who
n^.anufacture pig-iron, bar-iron, sheet-iron and nail-
plates; also railway axles and wheels. There are
several varieties of ore found, but that worked is
chiefly limonite. From this point to
Folly Lake, or Folleigh (if thei-e is time to spell it so),
are the heaviest grades of the line. Long snow-sheds
testify to the severe winter storms upon the moun-
tains. The rock cuttings and the curves are numer-
ous, but many glimpses of picturesque scenery may be
had from the train. The Cobequid Mountains are 100
miles long and 10 miles wide. They rise to a height
of 1,100 feet. The train now descends the northern
slope. At
Springhill Junction branches off the road of the Cum-
berland Coal and Eailway Company to Parrsboro', on
the Basin of Minas. The mines are distant about
five miles from the Intercolonial Railway. Three
separate seams are being worked, and the present out-
put is 1,200 tons a day. In the year 1883 the total
output was 200,000 tons. The operations of the com-
pany have of late been largely extended. The three
seams now being worked are of 13 feet, 11 feet and 11
feet respectively. In a width of 1,018 feet there are
eight seams and an aggregate thickness of 62 feet of
good workable coal. The analysis of the 13-foot seam
is as follows : — Carbon, 78.51 ; hydrogen, 5*19 ; oxygen
and nitrogen, 5.98 ; sulphui*, 1*12 ; ash, 5*20. The coal
used on the Intercolonial Railway is from this mine.
74 AC.M)IA.
The owners are enlarging the works so as to attain
an output of 2,000 tons a da3^ The area of the
Cumberland coal tleld is 300 squaj'c miles.
From thivS point an excursion can be made to visit
the celebrated Joggins section ol" the carboniferous
series of rocks. The railway runs from Springhill
Station to Parrsboro', on the ]3asin of Minas. There a
party could easily arrange for a steamer to go along
the coast, and the Intercolonial Eailway could be
reached again at Amherst without turning back upon
the route to (Quebec.
The South Jogg^.— Sir Charles Lyell says the finest
example in the world of a succession of fossil forests
of the Carboniferous period laid open to view on a
natural section, is that seen on the lofty clitfs called
the South Joggins, bordei'ing the Chiegnecto channel.
Sir Charles visited them twice. They are abundantly
illustrated in all his works and in Dr. Dawson's Aca-
dian Geology. There is a continuous exposed section
ten miles in length. Sir Charles counted nineteen
seams of coal and he saw seventeen trees in an upi'ight
position, chiefly Sigillariir, occurring at ten distinct
levels, one above the other. The usual height of the
trees was six to eight feet, but one trunk was twenty-
five feet high. The action of the tides exposes new
fossil trees from year to year and a continuous interest
thus attaches to the locality. The whole i^round is
classic to geological science ; and it would be as
unpardonable in a geologist to omit a visit to the
South Joggins as for an Egyptologist to go to Cairo
without seeing the Pyramids.
Parrsboro', the terminus of the branch road, is a
beautiful place. The scenery is most diversified. In
the i-ear is the bold mountain country and to the south
east is the Basin of Minas, bordered with beautiful
meadows, and set in a distant circle of hills. Opposite
is the bold ciitf of Cape Blomidon, the northern end of
THE INTERCOLONIAL. 75
the barrier of trap rock which skirts the western shore
of Nova Scotia — columnar trap restinp^ on new red
sandstone, itself worth a visit. The bold points of
Cape Split and Cape d'Or are also visible — all con-
tributing to form in one locfility a total of geological
attractions unequalled in the woi'ld.
Eeturning to the Intercolonial route ; after leaving
Springhill the train passes one station and arrives at
Maccan.—From this point stages run to the Chieg-
necto coal mines and to the South Joggins. Travel-
lers who wish to visit these places may reach them
conveniently from this point. This is the usual point
of stoppage for that purpose when a party is not made
made up. Eight miles further is
Amherst— A flourishing town of 4,457 inhabitants,
depending upon a rich farming country for its trade.
The tourist who is fond of colonial history stops here
to visit the ruins of Fort Cumberland and trace out
the localities of many deeds of daring in the old days
of struggle in the French and Indian wars.
Five miles after leaving Amherst the train crosses
the little river 3Iissiguash, the boundary between
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick — a little stream very
important in old -^olonial history and about which the
French and English wrangled for thirty years. At
the ti-eaty of Utrecht, France ceded to England ^' that
all Nova Scotia or Acadia comprehended within its
ancient boundaries." The English expected and
claimed L'Acrdie as known in the French maps and .
books ; but the Fj-ench insisted that the peninsula of
Nova Scotia alone was meant, and claimed this little
river as the boundary of Canada. Commissioners had
been appointed, under the treaty, to settle these
boundary questions ; but the}^ did nothing but pro-
duce documents and write memoirs, and, at last, in
1750, M. de la Jonquiere, the new Governor of Cana-
da, sent down the Chevalier de la Corne with a
*76 ACADIA.
detachment who ai'rived in time to prevent fj-om
landing Major Lawrence, who had been sent with a
detachment to occupy the head of the Bay. La Come
informed Lawrence that the Missiguash was the
boundary, and, as war had not been declared, Law-
rence landed south of the river and subsequently Fort
Lawrence was built by him at the village of Beau-
bassin. The Abb^ Laloutre, who was the evil genius
of the Acadians, set tire to the church as the English
entered the village. He had comedown on his errand
of mischief to lead the Acadians to their ruin, and he
took this measure to force them to abandon their lands
on the English side. La Corne erected Fort Beau-
s^jour on his side and from that point as a centre,
regardless of the reproaches of the Bishop of Quebec,
the insubordinate and unscrupulous Laloutre car-
ried on his political plots until he brought upon the
Acadians their cruel fate. The ruins of these forts
still exist. Fort Beausejour was an important work,
built for a garrison of 800 men and armed with 30
guns. The French had a continuous chain of forr^
from here to the St, John river. The English main-
tained a garrison of 600 men at fort Lawrence until
1755, when they captured Fort Beausejour. A few
miles further on, the railway crosses a wide extent of
rich marsh-land which, fertilized by the muddy tides
of the Bay, produces enormous crops of hay. The first
important station in iS"ew Brunswick is
Sackville.— This is a town of 4,882 inhabitants. Mount
Alison College, a Wesleyan institution, with 200 stu-
dents, is one of the most important educational estab-
lishments in the Province. Near here will be the
outlet of the Bay Yerte Canal, projected only as yet,
to unite the Bay of Fundy with the Gulf of St. Law-
rence. When it is remembered that the tides in the
Gulf are ordinary ocean tides while those of the Bay
rise sixty feet, the difficulty of the undertaking will
suggest itself. A railway to Cape Tormentine, to con-
THE INTERCOLONIAL. 77
nect with a short ferry across Northumberland Straits,
is nearly completed. The next station is Dorchester,
an important town. Then follows
Memramcook— containing the large Eoman Catholic
College of St. Joseph, with 100 students, among a
flourishing population of over 1,000 Acadian French.
The next station is
Painsec Junction.— From here the tourist may go to
St. John, to Quebec, or to Shediac. At Shediac the
Gulf Ports steamers call, connecting with Pictou, N»
S., with Miramichi and the Ba}^ Chaleur ports, and
with Quebec. There is also a daily steamer to Prince
Edward Island. The next station is
Moncton. — This is the centre of the Intercolonial
Eailway system. It contains 5,032 inhabitants. A
sugar refinery and a cotton mill with other factories
are located here. These and the machine-shoi^s of the
railway are the life of the town. This is the place to
witness the great tidal wave of the Bay of Fundy. At
low tide nothing can be less interesting than the wide
expanse of slippery red mud with a little stream
trickling down, far off in the middle, which marks
the bed of the Petitcodiac river. The tide comes in
with a "bore," six feet high, and speedily rises to
a height of seventy feet. Then, when the water comes,
and the vessels which were lying over on their sides
are straightened up and the banks are full, the river is
a pretty sight enough ; although one is always afraid
that the water will suddenly run away again.
The tides of the Bay of Fundy are very remarkable.
The tidal wave sweeping along the American coast to
the north-east is caught in the broad funnel-shaped
entrance to the Bay and compressed. As the opposite
coasts draw together it increases in height and speed
all the way up to the remotest points of Chignecta
and Cobequid Bays. It attains a speed of six milesan
78 ACADIA.
hour and a height of seventy feet. Into the narrows
of the estuaries it rushes with a " bore *' or foaming
wave sweeping along with it a flood turbid with red
mud.
From Moncton the road passes through a very unin-
teresting country until the Miramichi is reached. The
coast is low and although hirge streams are crossed
the road has been taken well inland to avoid bridging
them at their estuaries. The T^iehibucto is an import-
ant river with a flourishing town at its mouth. The
settlements are all upon the shore, and, although the
land is good, the country from the train seems unin-
viting. Land requires to be more than good to tempt
a New Brunswicker away from the charms of ships
and saw-logs. They are a maritime people and love
the water, of the sea first, and, failing that, of the
rivers. At Chatham Junction there is a branch road
to Chatham, but the main line goes to Newcastle,
where it crosses the
Miramichi River, for there is no town or place called
by this euphonious name. Miramichi is a generic
name for the settlements upon the river. The road
crosses the river above the forks. The length of each
bridge is 1,200 feet. After crossing the north-west
branch, the road turns ofl" the main line by a siding
into Newcastle. The two chief towns on the river are
Newcastle and Chatham, between which a very active
rivalry exists. Newcastle is a town of 4,209 inhabi-
tants, it is at the head of deep water navigation.
Chatham is the older settlement, it is on the opposite
(south) side of the river six miles lower down. It has
a population of 5,672. The business carried on is the
same at all the towns of this coast. Lumbering, ship-
building and fishing. Canning lobsters and salmon is
an important industry.
The Miramichi River is 225 miles long. It falls into
a wide bay — a very favourite fishing ground. The
low coast extends out in spits of sandy soil, densely
THE INTERCOLONIAL. Y9
wooded. It was at Miraniichi Bay that Jacques
Cartier first landed on Canadian soil, and the locality
was a favourite one in early French times. In
1642 Basques were settled on the river, but they quar-
relled with the Indians and were succeeded by French.
An extensive concession was granted there to Nicho-
las Denys, Governor of Acadia, and he had his chief
post on the Miramichi, with forts at Miscou and on
the Gut of Canseau. The first establishment at
Miscou was made in 1610.
This region became celebrated b}' the immense fire
which raged over it in 1825. Newcastle was destroyed
and a large number of the inhabitants ruined. Above
200 j)ersons were supposed to have perished in the
flames. Such a fire was never known befoi'e nor since.
Over 8,000 square miles of forest were destroyed and
$1,000,000 worth of property. The fire swept rapidl}^
on, cracking and roaring along a blazing line of one
hundred miles front. Many ran to the river and
plunged to the neck in the water. Others sought
refuge on rafts and logs. The roaring of the flames
— the sci'earas of the perishing — the cries of the ani-
mals — the volumes of smoke and sparks contributed
to make up a scene of horror which no eye-witness
could ever forget. The lumber from this region was
exceedingly good. Masts and spars for the Eoyal
Navy were exported thence in large numbers.
Chatham is the seat of a Eoman Catholic bishop, and
a large pile of ecclesiastical buildings form a leading
feature of the to^wn.
The Miramichi is the gateway to the sportsman's
paradise — the forest wilderness of New Brunswick.
From the fringe of settlement on the coast to the St.
John River extends an immense unsettled territory
permeated with streams and lakes, and everywhere,
by short portages, accessible to light birch canoes.
Beaver, moose, cariboo, lynx, sable, mink and bears
inhabit this primitive wilderness, and the streams are
80 ACADIA.
full of fish and abound with salmon in their season.
The land in the valleys, when cleared, is exceedingly
good farming land.
After passing three stations the train arrives "at
Bathurst, a flourishing town of 4,806 inhabitants,
formerly called Xepisiguit, a name still borne by one
of the four streams which fall into the basin. This
place was first settled by a Basque named Enault, who
married an Indian woman, but, after clearing the land
and raising cattle and starting a fishing and lumber-
ing establishment, he was impolitic enough to have a
misunderstanding with the lady's brother, who toma-
hawked him incontinently. There is a good business
done at Bathurst, and the farmers around it are pros-
perous. The great falls of the Nepiseguit, 105 feet
high, are distant 25 miles. This is a good place for
boating, for bathing and for fishing. Altogether the
most desirable spot for summer sport along the coast.
Miscou Island, the extreme north part of the province,
was much dreaded in the adventurous old days before
science exploded all the monsters, because of a female
demon who resided there, up to whose waist the mast
of a ship would scarcely reach, and who would pocket
a stray Jndian or Fi^enchman for an occasional meal ;
besides rendering the place unpleasant with terrific
roaring. Is it not so written in the books of the early
voyagers ?
But a demon worse than the Scylla of Miscou lurks
not far from here on the desolate sandy shore of Tra-
cadie — a demon who baffles the power of nineteenth
century science —
" The nightmare life in death is she
That thicks men's blood with cold " —
the demon of leprosy — the true leprosy of the white
shining spot and decaying limbs. Its origin is
obscui-e, but it would seem to have originated about
THE LEPERS. 81
1758 when a Fi'ench vessel, which had been in the
Levant trade, was stranded near the Miramichi. The
sailors were hospitably treated by the poor lishermen,
and shortly after this dreadful plague appeared.
Many died, and the people fled to other places along
the coast. In process of time the disease appeared at
Caraquet, Tracadie and elsewhere, until, in 1817, the
death of 3Iarie Landry drew the attention of the
government to the subject. But it was not until 1844
that a law was enacted under which all the unfortu-
nate lepers were collected at one place, Sheldrake
Island, at the mouth of the Miramichi. From thence
the establishment was moved to Ti-acadie. Everyone
found touched with this fell disease was sent there.
Forcibly separated from house and home, from parent,
wife, or child, what horrible anguish must have torn
many a heart on joining that loathsome band of
human beings in the lazaretto ! And for many years
they were uncared for — objects of teiTor to their
fellow creatures — separated and accursed. At last, in
1858, application was made to the nuns of the Hotel-
Dieu of Montreal. True spiritual daughters of Jeanne
Mance, these devoted women feared nothing and
shrank from nothing. They took charge of these
poor desolate souls, they brought order and cleanli-
ness into the lazaretto, they separated the sexes, they
washed the bandages, they dressed the dropping limbs,
and kindly and patiently, without a shudder of disgust,
they still labour to solace these weary souls with the
consolations of religion as well as by the kind offices
of the hospital. The lazaretto is under the care of a
superioress and eight nuns. A visitor in 1873 counted
23 patients, and it is beyond doubt that the disease is
disappearing. All the innrates are French, and no
doubt the practice of continually marrying " in and
in," necessary in such small and separated commu-
nities, would intensify any disease which happened
to take root among them.
At Bathurst the traveller comes out upon the Bale
6
82 ACADIA.
des Chaleurs, so callcfi by Jacques Cartier on account
of the excessive heat he experienced there. The i oad
now runs along the bay, which is 100 miles long, with
a breadth of 20 to 30 miles.
Leaving Bathurst, the train crosses several large
streams and passes five stations until it reaches
Dalhousie, a beautiful town of 2,353 inhabitants,
situated on a commanding point overlooking the
estuary of the Eestigouche Eiver. The harbour is
excellent. It was in this estuary that Admiral B>Ton,
in ITGO, destroyed the French squadron which came
out too late to relieve Quebec. The next station is
Campbellton, on the Eestigouche Eiver. Here the
traveller will take leave of Kew Brunswick, for that
river is the boundary of the Province of Quebec. It
is the head of navigation on the Bay Chaleur, and
here the steamers call from Quebec, Gaspe and the
Bay Chaleur poi-ts. It is very central for shooting
excursions, is near many important salmon rivers,
and is pleasant for driving or boating, or sailing or
bathing. In short, it is a delightful summer resort,
in proximity to much beautiful scenery.
Leaving Campbellton the train follows up the Ees-
tigouche until opposite the mouth of the Metajiedia,
when it crosses to follow the valley of the latter in its
course through the mountains. The Eestigouche is a
noble stream, broad and deep — famous for salmon ;
draining an area of 6,000 square miles, with bold
shores, and navigable for 130 miles further. It is
crossed by a skew bridge over 1,000 feet long. The
scenery at the junction of the river is very pretty.
After crossing the bridge the train arrives at
Metapedia Station.— This is headquarters for salmon.
Here is ''Fi^aser's." What salmon-Usher has not heard
of it ? And there are pools belonging to that great
institution where guests, who cannot afford to lease a
METAPEDIA. 83
whole river, may try their luck. The road follows up
the valley of the Metapedia to the summit of the
divide of the St. Lawrence. Several streams fall into
the Metapedia, notably the Assametquaghan and the
Oausapscal, and, as Fluellen would say, " there a?*e sal-
mons in all " — for was it not at the mouth of the latter
euphoniously named i-iver where H.R.H. the Princess
Louise caught the 40-lb. salmon ? No doubt the dinner
earned that day by the quick eye and steady hand of
the Royal lady surpassed the sumptuous feasts of
Kensington Palace, for camping out in the clear
mountain air, and exercise, and pretty scenery give a
sauce not to be had from Crosse & Blackwell. Here
also abideth the mosquito, no respecter of persons, a
creature whose providential function it is to dwell at
such places and become the one sole cause why the
better-disposed Americans do not take to the woods
permanently. The raismi d'etre of this mean sneak of
a fly is to drive mankind into the thorny paths of
civilization. The winding river, with its hundreds of
rapids and falls ; the beauty of the placid lake, which
is its source near the summit ; the abundance of fish ;
and the wildness of the scenery make this region a
very paradise even if it be not quite cleared up. After
leaving the banks of Lake Metapedia the road still
rises until Lake Malfait is reached, which is at the
summit, *750 feet above the St. Lawrence. Then the
traveller will begin to see spread out before him the
sea-like expanses of the River St. Lawrence, his ears
will thenceforth be greeted with the sound of the
French tongue, and the names of the stations will com-
memorate so many Saints that the Acta Sanctorum of
the Bollandists in 54 volumes folio, with the continua-
tion to date, would be required to enlighten an in-
quisitive stranger as to their merits.
The remaining stations of the road, until Quebec is
reached, will be noticed in another place in the des-
cription of the Lower St. Lawrence.
84 ACADIA.
Principal Dawson has prepared the following geo-
logical itinerary of the whole route.
NOTES ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY FROM
HALIFAX TO 3IONTRE.4L.
At Halifax the geologist lands on the quartzites and
slates of the Coast series or Gold series of Nova Scotia,
believed to be of Lower Cambrian age. In the vici-
nity of Halifax it contains auriferous quartz mines,
which are situated at Montagu and Waverley. At
North AYest Arm and other places may be seen gra-
nite, which traverses these beds as chick dykes or
intrusive masses, and produces contac : metamorphism.
At Waverley Mine, the obscure fossils named Astropo-
lithon may be found in the quartzite.
At Windsor Junction, the branch to that j^lace di-
verges (about forty miles). Windsor has excellent
exposui-es of the fossiliferous Lower Carboniferous
limestones, and of the great beds of gypsum, char-
acteristic of that formation in Nova Scotia.
Beyond Gay's Elver, the railway enters into the
carboniferous country, and in some places quarries in
the Lower Carboniferous limestone may be seen near
the road.
At and beyond Truro the railway traverses a por-
tion of the Triassic red sandstone of Cobequid Bay.
The sandstone may be seen in the cuttings, and the
red colour of the soil is characteristic.
In approaching the Cobequid Hills, a more broken
countiy and beds of grey sandstone and conglomerate
indicate the Carboniferous beds, which here reappear
from under the red sandstone.
At Londonderry Station the road enters on a belt
of highly inclined slates of olive-grey and dark col-
ours, which, at a little distance west of the line of
railway, contain the large and productive veins of iron
ore worked by the Steel Company of Canada. This
vein or aggregation of veins is primarily of car-
GEOLOGY. 85
bonate of iron and ankerite, with some specular iron,
but has been changed in many pLaces to a great depth
into limonite, which is the ore principally worked.
Beyond this place the slates are seen to l)e pierced
by great intrusive masses of red syenite and by dykes
of diorite and diabase. At Wentworth Station these
rocks are overlaid by dark-coloured shaly beds, holding
fossils of the age of the Clinton or older part of the
Upper Silui'ian. The grey slates holding the iron ore
are obviously of greater age than this, but how much
greater is uncertain. For reasons stated in "Acadian
Geology," they are regarded by Dr. Dawson as Lower
Silurian.
Crossing the Colxequid Hills, conglomerates are seen
belonging to the southern edge of the Cumberland
coal-tield, on which the road now enters. At Spring-
hill Station is a branch road leading to the mines of
that name, the most important coal mines on the line
of this railway.
At Maccan Station conveyances may be had to the
celebrated South Joggins section, on the shore of
Chiegnecto Bay, about 12 miles distant. To see this
satisfactorily, the geologist should lodge at the Joggins
Mines and spend two or three days on the shore.
Details of the section will be found in "Acadian
Geology."
From Maccan Station to Moncton the railwa}^ passes
over carboniferous rocks, mostly of the lower members
of that series. Near Dorchester there aj-e good sec-
tions of the Millstone Grit formation, and at the Albert
Mines, Hillsboro', the remarkable bituminous shales of
the Lower Carboniferous, holding albertite and remains
of fishes. This part of the railway also passes over
some fine examples of the alluvial deposits of the Bay
of Fundy, more especially the great marshes of Amherst
and Sackville.
At Moncton, the railways from St. John on the one
hand ar^"" ^hediacon the other join the main line. By
the fir t + e traveller may visit the Huronian, Cam-
80 ACADIA.
bri«an and Devonian loeks of St. John, and by the
second and steamers from Pointe du Chene, may reach
the Permian and Triassic rocks of Prince Edward
Island.
From Moncton to near Bathurst the railway passes
over the low Carboniferous plain of Northern New
Brunswick, showing scarcely anything of the under-
lying rocks.
Beyond Bathurst is the varied and interesting
country of the Baie des Chaleurs and the Eestigouche
and Metapedia Rivers, of which it is possible only to
note some of the more interesting features.
By stopping over at Dalhousie or Campbellton, or
at the one place and proceeding to the other, the fol-
lowing localities may be visited : — At Cape Bon Ami,
near Dalhousie, is a tine section of Upper Silurian
shale and limestone, abounding in fossils, and alter-
nating with very thick beds of dark-coloured dolerite.
Apparently resting on these are beds of red porphyry
and breccia, forming the base of the Erian or Devonian
beds. On these, a little west of Campbellton, rest
agglomerate and shale, rich in remains of fishes
(Cephalaspis, Coccostevs, etc.,) and traversed by dykes
of trap. Immediately above these are conglomerates
and dark, hard shales, the latter full of remains of
Psilophyton and Arthrostigma, — and at a sandstone
quarry on the opposite side of the Eestigouche are
similar plants and great silicified trunks of Prototaxites.
All these beds are Low^er Erian.
At Scaumenac Bay, opposite Dalhousie, are magni-
ficent clitfs of red conglomerate of the Lower Car-
boniferous, and, appearing from under these, are grey
sandstones and shales of Upper Erian age. They
contain many fossil fishes, especially of the genus
Pterichthys, and also fossil ferns of the genera Archce-
opteris and Cyclopiem and of species characteristic
elsewhere of the Upper Erian.
Beyond Campbellton and on the Metapedia River,
the rocks exposed are principally slates or shales
GEOLOGY. 87
witli marked slaty structure, and of Upper Silurian
age. Fine exposures of these are seen in the cuttings
on the Meta])edia. Fossils occur in calcareous bands
associated with these slates.
Passing Lake Metapedia, at tlie head of the river of
that name, the railway cuts through s«)me limestone,
pj'obably of Hudson Eiver age, and then passes into
Lower Silurian, and probably in part Cambrian, shales,
sandstones and conglomerates, of which the greater
part are referred to the Quebec grouj). Crossing over
these, the raihvay passes at a high level from the val-
ley of the Metapedia to the River St. Lawrence, here
30 miles wide, and which breaks upon the view sud-
denly after leaving the Metis Station, the cuttings
near which are in slates of the Quebec group. From
this point the raihvay follows the strike of the
Quebec group all the w^ay to Levis, opposite Quebec.
On this line the conglomerates near Bic are espe-
cially worthy of notice, and are well seen in the cut-
tings. At Levis there are cuttings for a new connect-
ing line of road near the village of Levis, and about a
mile from the railway station, which expose some of
the beds holding GraptoUtes. The citadel of Quebec
affords a fine exposure of the Quebec group rocks,
though w^ithout fossils, and a traveller who can stay
over will find instructive sections at the Island of
Orleans.
The Falls of Montmorenci, near Quebec, are of great
beauty, and show in the gorges Utica shale resting on
Laurentian gneiss, which at the Natural Sc'^2)s above
the falls is overlaid by Trenton limestone.
Half way betw^een the city and the falls, at u mill in
the village of Eeauport, is a bank of shining boulder
clay, overlaid by fossiliferous sand and gravel (Saxi-
cava sand) rich in Saxicava rugosa and other shells.
Clays with a somewhat richer fauna (Upper Leda
Clay) occur in the bank of a brook a little farther
from the I'oad to the north.
From Quebec to Montreal, both the Grand Trunk
88 APADIA.
Eailway and tho Xorlh Shore Railway pass for tho
most part over a flat Lower Silurian country, with no
exposures of importance. But the traveller w^ho
ascends the river by steamboat ma}' see, after leaving
Quebec, tine sections of the Quebec group, overlai<l by
Trenton limestone and this by Utica shale, whicli in
many ])laccs forms high banks overlooking the river.
J. W. D.
CAPE BRETON
This island has been the subject of many discussions
among the historians of America (Amei'icanists as
the}^ are sometimes called) because, if we ai'e to give
credit to a map, dated 1544, and stated to have ])een
compiled by Sebastian Cabot, it was upon this island
that Cabot landed in 1407. The land first sighted was
called by Cabot '"PrimavLsta/' and a lai-ge island near
it he called St. John. This latter, by the same map,
is identified easily as Piince Edward Island ; while
Primavista is Cape North, the most easterl}' point of
Cape Breton Island— a veiy probable land-fall. It is
difficult however, on a candi '. consideration of all the
circumstances, to give full credence to this map; for
it was engraved and published in Germany, away
from the supervision of Cabot, who was then resident
at Seville in Spain, and, moreover, it contains all the
discoveries of Jacques Cartier and other navigators
down to the date it bears. It is beyond doubt that
it was drawn nearly fifty yeais after the discovery
in question, and therefore, has not the authority of a
contemporaneous map. Moreover, the time stated in
Cabot's nai-rative as taken up in sailing from Prima-
vista to St. John's Island is too short for the distance.
We are, therefore, compelled to relinquish to New-
foundland the honour of priority of discovery, and to
acquiesce in the commonly received theory that Bona-
yista is the Primavista of Cabot, and that, in the
island near it still bearing the name Bacalieu, we
CAPE BHKTON. 89
have a survival of the Baccalaos Island of the nana-
tivo. It is, howcv^cr, voiy j)Ossihlo, as others main-
tain, that Cabot sighted Labrador first and that Belle-
isle is the island he named 8t. John. But, be this as
it may, Cabot sailed alon<^ the whole coast from 5G^
to North Carolina,* and upon this voyaij^c the English
in after years rested their title , altliough, at the
time, they left it to Italian and Spanish writers to
record the results of his voyage. The careful clerks
of that day preserved a ^opy of the King's commission
to Cabot, but we are left to gather the important facts
of his voj'age from other sources, and from a manu-
script preserved at Bi'istol we learn that the tirst
recorded J]uropean ship which touched the mainland
of America w^as the Matthew, from Bristol, and
manned by Bristol men.
As stated elsewhere, close in the wake of Cabot, if
not indeed before him, came the French of Dieppe and
St. Malo and the French and Spanish Basques. These
latter named the island by the name it still bears after
Cap Breton, near Bayonne, in their own country ; for
they seem to have preceded the French on these
coasts. Their names clung to the best fishing locali-
ties. Sydney Harbour w^as called Baye des Espagnols,
Grande Anse on the west coast Anse aux Basques,
Cape Dauphin was Pointe des Basques. On the
Labrador coast Bradore Bay was Baye des Espagnols,
and Bay Chaleur was called Baye des Espagnols on
the old maps. Port-au-Basque, in New-found land, is a
great submarine cable station, and far up the St. Law-
rence, past Tadousac, the name L'Echafaud-aux-
Basques marks the place where they cured fish and
boiled whale's biubber before Champlain's time.
All through the succeeding century French, Spa-
ish, Portuguese and English fishermen visited Cape
Breton, and used its harbours in summer. Strange to
say, it was a neutral ground, no matter what wars
were going on in Eui'ope. The Fi-ench preferred St.
Anne's Bay; the English Louisbourg, which Charle-
90 ACADIA.
voix calls Ilavre-aux- Anglais in his map, and the Spa-
niards, Sydney or Baye des Espagnols. About 1629-34
attempts at a French settlement were made without
permanent success at St. Anne's Bay. Nicholas
Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, was the first to settle on the
island. He established a fort at St. Anne's and
another at St. Peter's, thus commanding the whole
island by means of the Bras d'Or Lake. He was made
governor of the whole country up to Cape Rosier, at
the mouth of the St. Lawrence, including the islands
in the Gulf He had forts also at Chedabuctou, on the
Gut of Canseau, and at Miscou, at the mouth of Bay
Chaleurs. He worked the coal beds at Sydney as
early as 1677. He was a man of great intelligence
and enterprise, and a firm believer in the country, in
which he said " one could live as well as in France."
Denys' forts were destroyed by jealous rivals and
his concession revoked. Little is heard of Cape Bre-
ton until 1711, when an enormous English fleet, under
Sir Hovenden Walker, was sent out to attack Quebec,
but was shattered by a storm and reassembled at
Sydney Harbour. The sole feat which the admiral
accomplished was the nailing up of a board on a tree
with an inscription painted thereon in Latin to the
effect that he took possession of the island in the name
of Queen Anne In 1713, after the Treaty of L^trecht,
the history of the island truly begins, for then it was
confirmed to France with the right to fortify it. The
English possessed Newfoundland and Nova Scotia,
but Fj-ance resolved upon making a Gibraltar in the
West, for Cape Breton was the gateway to Canada.
After some hesitation, the French Government
decided upon Havre-aux-Anglais as the location of
their fortress, and changed its name to Louisbourg.
The name of the island was also changed to Isle Eoy-
ale. In 1720 the engineeis commenced to build the
fortifications, and the population of the town grew
rapidly. The artificers and military thronged the
place: the officers got concessions and started fish-
CAPE BRETON. 91
eries: many Acadians from Nova Scotia removed, and
all the French from Placentia, in Newfoundland,
settled there : the French Navy rendezvoused there :
the Boston merchants traded there in open defiance of
the Navigation laws, and Louisbourg soon became a
power and a name in the western seas. Not only on
the seas. The French had the most unbounded con-
trol of the Indian tribes from the Penobscot to Quebec.
Through their Indian allies the colonization of Nova
Scotia was prevented and the back settlements of
Massachusetts terrorised, while the seaports of the
same province were furnishing materials and supplies
to the erection of the threatening fortress.
In 1744 war broke out between France and Eng-
land, and the colonists began to feel the thorn which
had been planted in their sides. Louisbourg had
grown into a fortified place of the first order. No
other fortress in the New World, not even Quebec,
had attained such strength. But the French nation
was not then what it had been. There were dissen-
sions in the garrison — the servants of the King were
more concerned in making fortunes for themselves
than in the public welfare, and Bigot, the evil genius
of the French in America, had his grasp, as Eoyal
Intendant at Quebec, upon the resources of Canada.
The outbreak of the war drove all the New England
fishermen btf the seas, and Governoj* Shirley, of Massa-
chusetts, saw the way open to cany out a scheme he had
long meditated — the capture of Louisbouig. It was a
daring project for a commercial community to mea-
sure swords with the French monarchy, and, alone
and unassisted, to attack the stronghold of French
military power. These were the men whom thirty
years later the Earl of Sandwich in the House of
Lords called '* i-aw, undisciplined and coivardlyJ'
They were men familiar with danger in every form,
excepting in the form they were preparing to encount-
er. The rocky shores and stormy seas of Northern
America were not likely places to breed cowards —
92 ACADIA.
nor were men likely to be cowards who all their lives
had been accustomed to seize the rifle, which stood
ready loaded behind each settler's door, at the sound
of the Indian war-whoop which curdled the blood of a
soldier accustomed only to the clang and fanftironade
of regular warfare. This enterprise was colonial :
planned in colonial councils : officered by colonial
officers : commanded by a colonial genei'al, with a
colonial commissai'iat, and paid for with colonial
money. Ten regiments were raised in Massachusetts,
Connecticut and New Hampshire ; and the expedition
consisting of 4,300 men started from Xantasket Roads
in ninety transpoi-ts. William Pepperell, a merchant
of Kittery in 'New Hampshire, was commander. He
was a man of wealth, amassed by trading and in the
fisheries, a militia colonel, close on fifty years of age,
with large enterprises on hand, which he cheerfully
left at the request of his province. A naval force of
14 vessels, carrying 200 guns, all provincial, was
sent with the expedition. As soon as the expedition
had been sanctioned by the legislature Shii-ley sent to
ask the co-oj^eration of the British squadron in the
West Indies ; but Commodore Warren called a council
of officers, which decided that no assistance could be
given without orders from the Admiralty. This news
arrived just as the expedition was sailing. Fortun-
ately, while it was delayed at Canso waiting for the
ice to clear ofl:' the coast, orders did arrive from the
Admiralty, and Admiral Warren's squadron co-
operated in the attack.
The siege lasted seven weeks. It was well for the
provincial army that the British fleet co-operated, for
one or two French men of- war would have destroyed
the colonial flotilla. When the colonists, after the
surrender, saw the strength of the place from the
inside, they wondered at their success. They had to
garrison it until the next year, when two royal regi-
ments arrived from Gibraltar, and Pepperell (who had
become Sir William Pepperell) went back to his storo
CArE BRETON. 93
at Kittery. From thenee his grandson was driven into
exile by the ''Sons of Liberty" at the Eevolution,
and the great estates of the family were confiscated.
His other descendants fell into poverty and distress.
The surrender of Louisbourg to a provincial expedi-
tion wounded the French Government deeply, and an
expedition was sent out consisting of eleven ships of
the line, thirty frigates and thirty transports with
3,150 soldiers. To the defeat of this armament every
force in Natui*e seemed to contribute. Yet it was full
of promise. The Acadians were disaffected : the
Indians hostile to the English and a large force from
Canada was to co-operate: Louisbourg was to be
retaken, Acadia reconquered and Boston destroyed.
!N^ot even the Spanish armada met with such reverses.
The fleet was dispersed by violent storms. Some of
the transports were wrecked on Sable Island ; others
were driven to the West Indies. The place of rendez-
vous was Chebucto, now Halifax, and as the shattered
expeditionary forces bes^an to assemble the Due
d'Anville, the • commander, was struck down with
apoplexy. During the long voyage fever had broken
out, and 1,200 men had died on the passage. It raged
among the fleet assembled at Chebucto. The shores
of Bedford Basin were lined with hospital tents. The
vice-admiral ran himself through with his sword in the
delirium of fever. The returning vessels were again
scattered by storms, and many fell into the hands of
the English.
To the amazement of the colonists, Louisbourg was
given back to tfee Fi-ench crown at the peace of Aix-
la-Chapelle. The French arrived in 1Y49, and at once
began to strengthen the defences in every way. The
island again became a centre of agitation and disturb-
ance for Acadia, and much of its history has been
related elsewhere. The peace was a hollow one, and
in 1756 war broke out again. Halifax became, in
1758, the rendezvous of an expedition greater and far
more fortunate than that of d'Anville. The names of
94 ACADIA.
Amherst and Wolfe now appear first in American
annals. The particulars of the siege are related in all
the histories. Louisbourg fell once more; after a long
siege and a gallant defence. Here Wolfe distin-
guished himself, gained the rank of major-general and
won the distinction, fatal to himself though glorious
to his country, of being appointed to command the
army which conquered at Quebec in the folk wing year.
The history of Cape Breton henceforth loser> its
interest. For a time it was a separate government,
then it was united to the Province of Nova Scotia.
Louisbourg was dismantled, the fortifications were
blown up, and now it is easy to trace their contour
among the grassy mounds of its deserted site. Yet,
as the harbour of Louisbourg is the only one in the
island which does not freeze in winter, upon the com-
pletion of the new short line to Europe this Carthage
of Canadian history may once more, under the rule of
the children of both the combatants, wake up to a life
of nobler enterprise and to a career of success in the
peaceful rivalry of commerce.
Area.— The Island of Cape Breton is 110 miles long
by 80 in breadth. It extends over an ai-ea of 4,375
square miles. Not only is it indented by manj^ har-
bours on its extej'ior coast, but it is penetrated
throughout by the sea, which forms a beautiful sheet
of water in the heart of the island covering an area of
450 square miles. The country is exceedingly diver-
sified. The Bras d'Or divides it into two parts; of
v^hich that to the north is largely composed of a
table land 1,000 feet in height, with bold cliffs steep
•down to the sea. This table land, of 1,100 square
miles in extent, is unsurveyed and unexplored, save
by the sportsmen who follow the moose ani caribou
which abound therein. The southern coast is lov^',
rising towards the interior. Fi-om Scatari to the
western table land the coast is a little bolder, but the
-cliffs do not anywhere rise higher than 100 feet.
CAPE BRETON. 95
About one-half of the area of Cape Breton is fit for
cultivation, and in the river valleys there is much fer-
tile land. The population is 84,500, employed in the
fisheries, in ^oal -mining and in agriculture. They are
chiefly of Highland Scotch or of Acadian French
descent.
Climate.— The climate of Cape Breton is like that of
Kova Scotia, but fi-eer from fogs. The winters are
not so cold as in Canada ; but spring is delayed longer,
for the driit-ice is often packed in upon the coast.
The summers are not so warm, the heat being
modified by the sea wHthin and around.
The Bras d'Or.— This is the crowning beauty of Cape
Breton. By two narrow but deep passages the sea
enters the island and spreads out into two broad lakes
connected by a narrow^ strait. These lakes ..earch
out the recesses of the land in an infinitj^ of bays,
creeks, lagoons and inlets of every conceivable variety
of size and shape. The water, whicl-. is remarkably
clear, is everywhere deep enough for vessels of con-
siderable size. The variety and beauty of the scenery
is inconceivable to those who have not visited it.
Mountain, hill and valley, steep rocky escarpment,
grassy acclivity and solemn, w^ooded hills contribute
their special attractions. Then there are innumer-
able isles and islets and winding, tortuous channels,
where the silver sea steals in among the bold and
sombre woodlands. To these charms add the abund-
ance of fish and proximity of game, and a sylvan
paradise is the result, where any lover of nature or
sport, who is not a thorough Sybarite, may luxuriate.
But one isthmus, a half a mile wide, connects the two
halves of the island together at the southern end.
The St. Peter's Canal cuts through this. Steamers
run daily through the lakes from Sydney to Port
Hawkesbury, on the Gut of Canso, connecting with
the railway.
96 ACADIA.
Coal Mines.— Cape Breton is remarkable for its coal
mines. Diirin,^ last year 612,614 tons were raised.
The centre oi' the island consists of carboniferous
rocks, and coal beds crop out on the west, east and
south shores. On the west coast, near Port Hoed, a
bed of 6 ft. thickness has been opened. At New
Campbelltown, on the Great Bras d'Or, a bed of 4 ft.
6 in. has been worked ; and in many other places out-
crops occur. It is, however, on the east coast, at
Sydney, that the most important beds are found.
This is supposed to be a segment of an immense coal
basin extending* towards the coast of Newfoundland.
The area of productive coal-measures at Sydney is 250
square miles, and to the geologist the exposures are
second only to those of the Joggins in interest. In
one section near Sydney, of 1,860 ft. there are 34
seams of coal. At Boulardarie Island is a section of
5,400 ft.. Of the 34 seams there are four of sufficient
thickness to be worked, being 4 ft. 8 in., 6 ft. 9 in., 5
ft. and 3 ft. 8 in. respectively. It is a free-burning
bituminous coal yielding on analysis 26*93 per cent,
of volatile matter, 67*57 of tixed carbon and 5*50 of
heavy reddish ash. Full details of this important
coal held will be found in Dawson's Acadian Geology^
which every geologist who visits Acadia should carry
with him.
Sydney.— This is a town of 5,484 inhabitants, selected
by the British government to be the capital when
Louisbourg was destroyed. It is upon a very fine
harbour easy of access, deep, commodious and safe.
This is the headquarters for a geologist. The Sydney
Mines are on the north side of the harbour. At
Bridgeport, 13 miles distant, are the International
Mines. The Victoria Mines are nine miles distant.
The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, but 15 miles
distant. The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 miles dis-
tant. These are the largest mines. There are eleven
in all being worked at the present time. They are
CAPE BRETON. 97
connected with Sydney by rail or stage and are easy
of access, for in many ])laces the coal ci"0|)s out of the
cliffs on the sea shore. Sydney is a good place to
stay at and convenient for making excursions from.
Louisbourg is 24 miles distant, and is reached by a
railway. A small town has sjn'ung up on the oppo-
site side of the hai'boui*. Cape Breton, I'rom which the
name of the island is derived, is its easternmost point
and lies between Sydney and Louisbourg. The town
in Gascony, whence the name was taken, has dwindled
into insignificance since its hardy sons commenced to
frequent those coasts, owing to the drift of sand having
changed ihe mouth of the J-Jiver Adour.
Baddeck.— This is a village on the Little Bras d'Or,
and is the central point of these lakes ; it is I'eached
by steamer from Sydney or by steamer from Port
Mulgrave, the terminus of the Nova Scotia Railway
on the Gut of Canso. In the first case, the route is
through one of the two natural openings to the sea;
in the second, the steamer passes through St. Peter's
Canal, cutting through the narrow isthmus to the
south. This village is headquarters for the sports-
man; it is close to the wild northern imexplored
region where may yet be found m >08e, caribou, bears,
wolves, foxes, beaver, minx and l i:sk-rats, by those
who like such rough work. It is the headquarters
for the tourist in search of the picturesque, for it
would not be easy to find another place central to so
much and so varied beauty. The valley of the Mar-
garee, with its fine fishing and scenery, is easily
reached from Baddeck.
Port Hawkesbury, a village on the Gut of Canso.
This remarkable channel is 15 miles long by one
w^ide. The shores are high and bold, and there are
several good anchorages in its length. It is the
entrance to the Gulf for all coasting vessels, and is
available for all classes of shipping. This village is a
7
98 ACADIA.
I
ort of call for the steamers plying' between Prince
^]dwanl Island and the <iult i)()rts and llaliiax or
Boston. Staij:es run to Sydney, Arichat and the Bras
d'Or. Three miles from here is Port Hastin<^s, where
the Western Union Telegia])h transfers its cable
messages for Europe.
Arichat, on Isle Madame, near the Atlantic entrance
to tlie Gut of Canso. A thriving village of Acadian
French devoted to the fisheries. It is the see of a
coadjutor I'ishop, who has charge of the Roman
Catholics of Cape Breton. The Sisters of the Con-
gregation, of Montreal, have a convent for education
here.
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.
This beautiful island may be called the garden of
the Dominion. It is settled throughout, and is nearly
all cleared and under cultivation. In this respect
it is in striking contrast to the other provinces of
Canada.
Although it has been asserted that Cabot discovered
the island in 1497, the English never laid claim to
it ; and, in early times, it formed part of the govern-
ment of New Fi'ance. In 1663 the Company of New
France granted it to the Sieur Doublet, a captain in
the French Navy, but no settlements were made and
the grant was revoked. Very little notice was taken
of the island by the French until after the treaty of
Utrecht. Then, having lost Nova Scotia, they con-
centrated their energies upon Cape Breton, and the
fertility of Isle St. Jean, as they called it, soon came
into use for the supply of the garrison at Louisbourg.
In 1719 it w^as granted en seigneurie to the Comte de
St. Pierre, w^ho formed a trading company and spent
considerable sums in establishing fisheries, but without
much success, for the grant was again revoked.
After the treaty of Utrecht many Acadians retired to
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 99
this island, and tlieir number was largely increased by
refugees when the English captured the French forts on
the Bay of Fundy. It atforded two-thirds of the supplies
used by the garrison of Louisbourg in 1758, and was
under a governor appointed from thence. The only
fort the French had was a small work with a few guns
at Charlottetown, which they called Port la Joie from
its beauty and security.
The island was surrendered at the capitulation of
Louisbourg, and in 1758 Lord Rollo was sent to take
possession. Many of the Acadians were deported
with those from Nova Scotia and scattered through
the English colonies ; but many escaped by hiding in
the woods and eventually returned to their lands,
where they were unmolested afterwards. In 1763, at
the peace, the island was annexed to the government
of Nova Scotia and various schemes for its settlement
were mooted. At last it was divided into townships
and granted, by means of a lottery, to a number of
persons, many of them officers of the army and navy
who had served in the war. There were conditions
attached to these grants, of quit-rent and of reserva-
tions for churches and wharves, but especially condi-
tions of settlement. The rej)ort upon the fertility of
the island was so favourable that it was expected all
the land would be taken up at once.
The grantees, however, for the most part, had no
intention of settling. Many sold their grants, and
the lands in the island gradually fell into the hands of
a few people who did nothing to improve them, but
remained in England, waiting to profit by the labour
of the actual settlers. Properly, these grants should
have been cancelled for non-fulfilment of the condi-
tions, but they were not. In 1769 the island was
erected into a separate government, and it remained
separate until 1873, when it became part of the Domi-
nion of Canada.
The fertility of the island attracted settlers from all
sides, and soon it was very generally under cultiva-
100 ACADIA.
tion, but, as the leases ran out, the absentee landlords
raised the rents. Whereupon arose disturbances with-
out number — the stalwart pioneers who had brought
the wilderness into cultivation not being able to
undej'stand the correct principles of property and
land tenure. Among other settlers were eight hun-
dred Highlanders, brought out by the Earl of Selkirk,
who became prosperous farmers in a very short time.
The land question still smouldered; occasionally
breaking out into flame until the government, in
18C0, appointed a commission, which valued the
rights of the absentee proprietors and recommended
their purchase by the government, with a view to re-
selling to the tenantry. A bill was founded on the
report, but was disallowed by the J^ritish Govern-
ment. Shortly afterwai'ds another bill was passed
and allowed, under which the government acquired
the proprietors' rights and thus put an end to further
agitation. The government acquired 843,081 acres,
and in 1882 only 142,011 acres remained not taken
up. Of this Gt,000 was indifferent forest land, so that
only 15,000 acres remained under lease to tenants who
had not purchased. In this manner was Prince Edward
Island converted into a country of proprietors from a
country of tenant farmers.
Census.— The island has a population of 108,891 ; of
these 47,115 are Roman Catholics. There are 10,751
of French Acadian descent and 48,993 are of Scotch
descent. The inclination of the people is altogether
towards agriculture, although the island is in a very
advantageous position for conducting fisheries. The
area of the province is 2,133 square miles, or 1,365,400
acres. Of this, 1,126,653 acres are occupied and 596,-
731 acres are actually under crop or in pastures or
gardens. So much country cleared up gives the pro-
vince the air of an English rural district — an idea
which the tidiness of the farming tends to con-
firm. Land can, however, be bought cheaply, for, to
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 101
the colonist, the West is over the hiinl of promise,
and the English-speaking people have not the deep-
seated attachment to the soil ul' the Canadian and
Acadian French. Consequently, land isott'ei-ed freely,
and an immigrant who does not care to face a pioneer
life may easily find here a home in a settled and
organized community.
Soil.— The country is level, but slightly rolling.
About the North and West rivers it rises into pictur-
esque hills, none exceeding five hundred feet in height.
It is deeply indented by the sea, and affords much
really lovely and quiet scenery after the European
type of picturesque beauty. The soil is a bright red
loam of uniform character throughout, varying from
a stiff red clay to a sandy loam, and everywhere free
from stones or boulders.
Climate.—The climate of the island is modified by the
sea. In winter, as compared with Canada, it is warmer,
but it is colder than some parts of Nova Scotia, being
less influenced by the winds from the Gulf stream.
It is less changeable, and there is not the fog in the
summer months which is met with in Nova Scotia
and some parts of New Brunswick. The island is
becoming a very favourite summer resort for Cana-
dians. All along the north shoi*e are long, level
sandy beaches, formed by the unbroken roll of the
sea, admirably adapted for bathing, and here many
resort who love quiet and seek for healthful recreation.
Prince Edward Island is an Arcadian province
without manufactures — the ideal country of Mr. Rus-
kin, where no tall chimneys vomit soot and blacken
the herbage. The green grass is always bright upon
the red soil. It is not a i)rovince of towns and cities,
but of farm houses in continuous succession on the
roads and streams. One drawback, how^ever, there is,
and that is the difficulty of regular communication
with the mainland during three months In winter.
102 ACADIA.
The field-ice in the strait renders steam navigation
iincei'tnin. Comnninication is kept up by boats ucrosH
a ferry of nine miles to the nearest point of New
Brunswick.
Geologfy.— The geological formation of the island is
New llvd Sandstone. It is beyond doubt under-
laid by coal measures, the continuation of the adjoin-
ing carboniferous systems of Nova Scotia and Cape
Breton, but at so great a depth that they could not be
profitably opened up in competition.
Railways.— There is but one railway — the Pi-ince
Edwaj'd Island Railway, built by the Provincial Gov-
ernment and worked at a considerable annual loss by
the Dominion Government since confederation. It
runs everywhere upon the island from end to end, and
branches to every town, so one such railway is amply
sufficient for any country.
Trade.— The exports consist chiefly of farm and
cattle products. They are increasing rapidly, for,
whereas in 1871 the total exports amounted to
$1,478,045, in 1883 they amounted to $3,000,000.
Education. — This province contains one college, one
normal school and 423 public schools, all under the
administration of a government board wnth superin-
tendent and inspectors. Forty-two per cent, of the
annual provincial revenue is expended upon education.
TOWNS.
Charlottetown, the capital (population, 11,485), is a
pleasant town situated on a point where three small
streams fall into a safe and commodious harboui\
Steamers ply between it and Pictou. Another line
connects it with Shediac, and there is a weekly line
for Can so, Halifax and Boston.
NEW BRFNSWirK. 10.'^
Summerside, a town of 2,8*^3 inha^itant^<, onBedcfine
Bay, 40 miles west of Charlottetown, celebrated for
most delicious oysters — neither too large like Saddle-
rocks, nor too small like J^luc l*oints, but just the size
which rii^ht j-eason calls for; of good flavour, and
tastiniz: as if tliev ha<l lived in salt water.
Alberton, 40 miles further west ; much fi-equented by
fiBhinic vessels.
Tignish, almost at the extreme western end — a
fishing village.
Georgetown, 30 miles east of Charlottetown, on a
very good harboui', which remains open nearly all the
winter. Steamers connect it with Pictou and the
Magdalen Islands.
NEW BRUNSWICK.
The United Empire Loyalists.— Although, as has been
shown elsewhere, there were scattered posts in this
part of Acadia during the Fi'ench rer/ifne, these were,
for the most part, intermittent in their occupation.
The hist(M'y of New Brunswick, as a connected story,
really dates from the year 1788, when the Loyalists
founded the city of St. John. The story of these men
has been told by several writers, notably by the Eev.
Egerton Everson and the Hon. Lorenzo Sabine, but
it has not yet had its Prescott or Parkman to illu-
minate weary years of pi'ivation and trial with that
glowing light of historic genius which can show the
motives influencing the actors in the di-ama, and the
hidden springs which supported their souls.
The time has now arrived when the American
nation has become great enough to pass out of the
''mythopoietic" period of history. Already there are
found a few writei'S in the United States who, in
treating the c^uestion of the great disruption of the
104 ACADIA.
British race, can pass beyond the region of fourth of
July orations. The last gi*eat civil war has taught
the'm that it is possible for people to differ funda-
mentally upon political questions without ranging all
the children of light upon one side and the children of
darkness upon the other.
The revolt of the thii'teen colonies was by no means
the act of a large majority. A very lai'ge minority,
if not a majority, disappi'oved of it, and this consisted
of men. for the most part, opposed to the measures of
Parliament, and many of whom had been leaders in
opposition to those measures. They were, in all the
colonies, respectable for wealth and social position.
They wei'c opposed to ai-med rebellion, and believed
that the grievances of the colonists could be redressed
by less violent measures. They called themselves
United Empire Loyalists, because they were sincei-ely
attached to British traditions and to the British mon-
archy, and they believed in the possibility of a broader
empire of the English race than that of the islands of
Britain. Their position was similar to that of the
Unionists in the South one hundred years latei*.
When the Declaration of Independence had, after
some ditficulty, been carried in the Eevolutionary
Congress, a reign of terrorism set in against all those
who did not actively sympathise with the revolt.
Committees of public safety undertook the mobbing,
and tari'ing and feathering, of suspected persons ; and
the newly-formed legislatures undertook the confisca-
tion of their property. At the same time the British
Government woke up to the seriousness of the occa-
sion and sent out, too late, a commission of concilia-
tion, which was egregiously befooled by that most
astute of men, Benjamin Franklin.
Discouraged by the Crown, and terrorised by the
revolutionary committees, a large number of loyalists
relapsed into sullen acquiescence; but a number
opemy declared for the Crown, and into their ranks
were driven all those who were proscribed and hunted
NEW BRUNSWICK. 105
out by the ''Sons of Liberty " in the different colonies.
Of these, regiments were, in time, formed ; and some
idea may be gained of the incapacity of the Eoyal
officers, who in all cases held chief command, when it
is stated that the number of American loyalists in the
field nearly equalled, at one time, the number of the
Continental army. France then threw her sword into
the trembling balance and won a sweet revenge for
the humiliations of the preceding war.
It is not the place here to allude fui-ther to this
lamentable quarrel. It is probably better for the
human race — those of them, at least, who happen to be
French, or German, or Spanish, or of any other stock,
that a people so arrogant as the British should be split
up into several nations. If the superabundant energy
of this race had not been spent to a certain extent
upon internal work, the outlook for other nations
would have been indeed gloomy. But, be that as it
may, the Imperialists lost, and, when peace was
declared, th< ' who had sided with England found
themselves stripped of their property, outlawed, and
abandoned.
In justice to the British Government, it must be
said that it made a strong plea for the loyalists while
arranging the treaty; but Oswald, who had the chief
share in the negociation, was an infant in Franklin's
hands. He even entertained the proposition that
Canada should be ceded to the United States, which
Franklin mildly suggested as the proper thing to do
under the circumstances. This the English Govern-
ment would not hear of, but Franklin quietly argued
Oswald out of all the territories of the Crown w^est of
the Alleghanies, which then formed part of no state
or colony, but belonged to Canada. These became
the states in after time of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois,
Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota. With the dis-
covery and first occupation of all that territory the
thirteen colonies never had anything to do.
It is necessary to recite these things, even in a
106 ACADIA.
guide-book, beonuse an intelli^'ent visitor will not be
able to understand the political histoiy of this country
unless they are taken into account. The political
agitator coming out from some old-world hotbed of
revolution, wonders to Und his rhetoric cooling down
in the atmosphere of a thinly disguised contempt.
But the descendants of the loyalists understand the
" rights of man " perfectly; and they know, by bitter
experience, that among such rights free thought and
free speech are not included. They are, therefore,
content w^ith the well-ordered liberty wdiich they are
now^ enjoying under monarchical forms, and they
reject the political nostrums which theorists offer to
ihem.
The peace which brought relief to England brought
despair to the loyalists ; for no terms could be made for
them. Congress only promised to recommend to the
several states a consideration of their cases. The num-
ber who were expatriated may be conceived when it is
stated thj^t from the port of New York alone upwards
of 12,000 men, women and children went into banish-
ment previous to September 1T83. What is now the
fruitful Pi'ovince of Ontario was a forest wilderness,
unknown except as the scene of bloody Indian wai'S.
Acadia was unsettled save at Halifax and Annapolis.
Eastern Canada was settled, but by a people of
another race and tongue. Had these loyalists been
people of small account in theii- native land — people
of no property or of no culture — it would have been a
little thing to have slunk back to those lower occupa-
tions in life which the fancy of many writers supposes
them to have filled. But such was not the case.
They were the vanquished champions of a lost cause
— the victims of a political idea which ^"as unsuccess-
ful — and they turned to the wildern^ . and founded
new communities, in wdiich now are manifested the
principles of rational liberty which were present in
their minds. Some went to the Bahamas,
most went to the Xorth, and received iri-ants from
, but the
* NEW BRUNSWICK. 107
the Crown of wild lands in the provinces. The
Province of Ontario was settled in its whole length
by loyalists, mainly from New York and the Middle
States. All the rockv Atlantic coast of Acadia was
settled from Massachusetts and the Eastern States;
but chiefly is iSTew Brunswick the home of the loyal-
ists. Shipload after shipload of i efui^^ees landed on the
rugged shore of the harbour of St. John. Many suc-
cumbed to the hardships of the first winter, with
scanty shelter and scarceness of food —
With death swooping down o'er their failure and all but
their faith overthrown.
But there their descendants remain to this day —
among the most vigorous, the most courageous and
most indomitable of the people who inhabit the Domi-
nion of Canada. AVho can blame them if they, last of
all, should have cherished the grand idea of the soli-
darity of England and the English race throughout
the world.
Physical Features.— The area of this province is 27,-
174 square miles. From north to south its greatest
length is 230 miles, and its greatest breadth is 190
miles. The coast upon the Bay of Fundy is rocky and
sterile until the' head of the bay is approached, when
the rich Acadian marsh lands are met with. Along
the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence the coast is low
and sandy. The surface of the country is rolling.
Nowhere does it attain anj" considerable elevation.
In the interior, a few miles back of the coast, the soil
is good and well adapted for farming. In this respect
the province has never had justice. There is less
really bad land in New Brunswick than in any other
province, except Prince Edward Island. The geolo-
gical formation of the country is mainly carbonifer-
ous. A strip of Silurian and of granite runs along
the southern coast, and the northwestern corner is
also Silurian and granite.
108 ACADIA.
Rivers.— New Brunswick is singiilai'ly endowed with
streams. As before stated, the surface of the country
is rolling and the valleys of the streams are very wide.
The spi-ing freshets flood these wide valleys and pro-
duce what is called '^ intervale " land of great fertility,
by the annual deposit of the swollen rivers. The
Eiver St. John is 500 miles long. It is navigable for
large steamers to Fi'ederieton, 00 miles, — and for 230
miles more for small steamers as far as drand Falls.
Above the falls there is another stretch of 80 miles of
navigable watei-. The ti'ibutaries of the St. John are,
many of them, large streams, such as the Xashwak,
Oromocto, Tobique, Aroostook. The St. Croix, Mira-
michi and Restigouche are large rivers, as also are the
Nepiseguit and the Eichibucto. These chief arteries
and their tributaries interlace their head waters and
intersect the province in every direction.
Minerals.— At Grand Lake, on the St. John, coal is
mined to a small extent. The seam is thin, and, in
comj)etition with the mines of Nova Scotia, will not
pay to work excepting for local consumption. It is
near the surface, and is found on many farms in the
neighbourhood. What further seams may exist deeper
down is not known. Albertite is a very remarkable
substance found at the head of the Bay of Fundy. It
is a sort of asphalt or solid hydrocarbon. Unfortun-
ately the present supply is almost exhausted, and
no new veins have yet been struck. A costly litiga-
tion was carj'ied on to determine whether this was, or
was not, coal, and scientific men, in equal number,
were ranged on both sides.
Climate.— The climate on the Bay of Fundy coast is
like that of Nova Scotia, with perhaps more fog in
summer. The shores of the Grulf are free from fog.
In the interior, about Fredericton, the climate is
bright and cold in winter and warm in summer, as in
Canada.
NEW BRUNSWICK. 109
Population. —The population of the province is 321,-
233. The genius of the people is maritime, as might
be supposed from their origin. Building and owning
ships is a passion. It is doubtful whether there is
any port in the world where at least one New Bruns-
wick ship cannot at any time be found, and their
capacity for managing this kind of property amounts
almost to instinct. The introduction of iron into shii>
building has injured their tj-ade in ships, but ^6 vessels
were built last year in the province. The fisheries
employ a large number of vessels and men. But the
New Brunswickers are also born lumbermen, and two-
thirds of the total value of their exports last year were
products of the forest. The energies of the people
are of late turning towards manufacturing, for which,
owing to the proximity of coal, they have great
facilities.
Railways.— The Intercolonial Railway has been
referred to in another place. In addition, the Grand
Southern, along the south shore, connects St. John
with St. Stephen, on the St. Croix Eiver. The New
Brunswick Eailway is a system of amalgamated inte-
rior lines from St. John to Fredericton — to the Maine
frontier, connecting with the New England roads — to
Edmonton, on the Upper St. John — and to Woodstock.
Education. — The chief educational centre of the pro-
vince is Eredericton, the capital. The University of
New Brunswick is there, and the Normal School.
The public schools of the province are free. Last
year there were 1,447 schools in operation, attended
by 66,775 pupils, or one in five of the population.
Owing to a change in the time of making up the
accounts, the last statement extends over eighteen
months. During that period $236,137 was expended
on public education.
110 ACADIA.
ST. JOHN.
The city of St. John was founded in 1T83 by a body
of exiled loyalists, chiefly from the Eastern States.
Among its founders were Chief Justice Ludlow, of the
Supreme Court of Xew York ; Judge Upham, who had
been a colonel of dragoons; Judge Allen, who had
been colonel of an infantry regiment ; Beverley Rob-
inson, who had possessed large estates on the Hudson.
All of the founders of St. John had been important
men in the colonies. They had obtained grants in
what was then called Nova Scotia. The city of Bos-
ton, with only one dissentient vote, passed a resolution
in 1783, which formulated the feeling prevalent, to
the effect "that this town will at all times, as they
^* have done to the utmost of their power, oppose
" every enemy to the just rights and liberties of man-
" kind, and that, after so wicked a conspiracy against
^^ those rights and liberties by certain ingrates, most
" of them natives of these states, and who have been
" refugees and declared traitors to their country, it is
'* the opinion of this town that they ought never to
" be suffered to return, but to be excluded from having
'' lot or portion among us." Naturally, therefore, the
settlers at St. John were poor, for their estates were
confiscated and any debts due them had been cancelled
by law. They began the world again, and others
gathered round them, on this rocky coast, until their
city became wealthy and populous ; when one night in
June, 1877, a great conflagration, for fire is too weak a
word, swept away 1,600 houses, extending along nine
miles of streets, and covering 200 acres of ground.
This was in the very heart of the business part of the
city. Twenty to thirty millions of dollars in value was
destroyed in one night; it was a night long to be
remembered by those who witnessed it. But this
indomitable people were not dismayed, for the ashes
were scarcely cool before they commenced their busi-
ness again in extemporized shanties — in vaults — under
ST. JOHN. Ill
every conceivable kind of sb )lter which the ingenious
shiftiness of Acadian versatility' could suggest. This
was only seven years ago, and now St. John is rebuilt
with many handsome buildings, but, with the excep-
tion of the Court House and the monuments of the
exiled loyalists in the graveyard, eveiything of Iiis-
toric association has been swept away.
The harbour of St. John is open all the year round,
and, by a breakwater and Partridge Island at its mouth,
is perfectly sheltered. The tide rises 23 feet, but at the
lowest tide there is 18 feet of water on the bar. The
river St. John falls into it, and around the estuary is
clustered an aggregate population of 41,353. In St.
John and Carleton, a suburb on the opposite side of
the harbour, are 26,127 persons, and in Portland, a
separate municipality, 15,226.
Prince William street and King street are the chief
thoroughfares of St. John. The Post Office, Custom
House, Bank of New Brunswick and Savings Bank
are handsome and substantial buildings. The Eoman
Catholic Cathedral in Waterloo street is a large Gothic
building in sandstone and marble, simple and severe
in style, with a handsome spire and adorned with rich
stained glass.
A short distance from the city, the St. John river is
spanned by a suspension bridge. This is stretched over
the falls, which possess the eccentricity of falling both
ways. When the tide is out the water foils 15 feet into
the harbour below, and when the tide runs in, it falls
15 feet into the river. Consequently, vessels can enter
the river only at half tide.. The bridge is TO feet above
the highest tide and crosses by a span of 640 feet. At
Carleton, La Tour built his fort, and some traces of it
yet remain. There it was that in 1645, Lady de la Tour,
in her husband's absence, defended herself against a
largely superior force, led by by his rival Charnissay,
repulsing them at the head of her men. She at last
surrendered on honourable terms, but Charnissay broke
his solemn pledge, and hanged all the garrison— English
112 ACADIA.
and French — but one, whom he compelled to act as
hangman, and he also compelled Madame de la Tour,
with a halter round her own neck, to be a witness to
the murder of her husband's retainers. Thus, says
Haanay the historian of Acadia, '' Her great heart was
^' broken. She was severed from the husband to whose
'' fortunes she had been so faithful, and could scarcely
" hope to see his face again, except as a captive like
" herself. She felt her work in life was done, for she
*' was not born for captivity. So she faded day by day
*' until her heroic soul left its earthly tenement, and in
" three weeks from the time she witnessed the capture
'* of her fort, she was laid to i-est by the banks of the
'' St. John which she loved so well, and where she had
'' lived for so many years." Evidently the Acadians
were very serious persons in those days.
From St. John all parts of Kew Brunswick can be
reached by rail. Steamers also leave daily for Eastport
and Boston, connecting at the former place with
steamers on the St. Croix to St. Andrews and St.
Stephens. Steamers also connect with Digby and with
Moncton. During last 3^ear 1,699 vessels, with an
aggregate tonnage of 515,359 tons, departed from St.
John. The imports for the same period were $5,304,873,
and the exports $4,247,648.
The Intercolonial Eailway from St. John to the main
line at Moncton, passes through Sussex Valley, the
choicest farming land in the Province. This region is
justly famed for its rural beauty as well as for
its fertility.
ST. JOHN TO FREDERICTON BY RIVER.
The distance is ninety miles, and it is a very plea-
sant trip by day. The steamer leaves from Indian-
town, above the bridge. The shores of the river at
tirst are rocky. The river has the appearance of a suc-
cession of lakes with steep shores, but this changes as
the farming land of the province is reached. The banks
PREDERICTON. 113
become lower, and some of the fertile intervale lands,
which the province is so proud of, may be seen from
the deck. After passing Gagetown the Jemseg river,
which is the outlet of Grand Lake, falls in. Here, in
1G40, the French erected a fort, which in 1G5-4 attract-
ed the attention of Oliver Cromwell, who understood
colonial questions exceedingly well. He sent an expe-
dition to take it, and it was taken and held until 1670.
At the conquest of Canada the Marquis de Yaudreuil
was Seigneur, and 116 settlers held lands from him.
The Oromocto is Vao next important river passed, and
close to it is Maugerville, a village settled before the
revolution, whose inhabitants, in 17T6, were AYhigs.
and passed resolutions of sympathy with Congress,
At last the city of
Fredericton is reached. One of the prettiest cities
in the Dominion — built on level grass-land among
gardens, with a gentle, sloping, garden-like acclivity as
a back-ground. The river makes a bend here, and at
one point is the Cathedral and at the other is the
Government House — for this is the capital of the Pro-
vince, where, undisturbed by the noise and bustle of
the outer world, legislation may be matured in peace.
Fredericton has a population of 6,218. The Parlia-
ment Building is a handsome edifice, containing the
chambers of the Legislative Council, Legislative
Assembly and Supreme Court. The library contains
15,000 volumes. It is a fire-proof building. The gem
of Fredericton is th^3 Cathedral which, though small,
is one of the most perfect pieces of pure early English
Gothic in America. The Cathedral of Christ Church
at Montreal was designed after it by the same archi-
tect.
Fredericton is the outlet of a lumbering district,
and large establishments are located opposite at the
mouth of the JS'ashwaak Eiver. It is a centre of sup-
plies for the upper St. John. It is also a centre con-
venient for sportsmen, for it is close to the best hunting
8
lU ACADIA.
and fishing' regions in America. Tliere are good hotels
there, and pleasant cultivated tsoeiety. In the old days,
when British troops were in (^inada, no |)laee was more
popular as a station than the quiet pretty capital of
New J^runswick.
Fi'()m Fredericton theie is a railway along the St.
John river to the Grand Falls and Edmonton, whore
the Madawaska falls into the St. John. Uj) the Mada-
waska and through lake Teniiscouata was the old route
to Canada, and there is a ])ortage from the lake to the
streams which fall into the St. Law^'ence.
THE MAINE BOUNDARY.
It has been shown that, from the earliest times,
Acadia extended at least to the mouth of the St. Croix,
where deMonts built his tirst fort. It really extended
further east ; but even Oswald could not give up ter-
ritoiy beyond the St. Croix. That feat remained for
succeeding statesmen to accomplish. By the treaty
of peace of 1^83 it was arranged practically that the
boundai-y of the United States on the east should be
ttte St. Croix to its source, and a line from thence to
the northern boundary, which was to be the water-shed
which divides the streams flowing into the Atlantic
Ocean from those flow^ing into the Bay of Fund3^ This
was the supposed boundary of Canada and Acadia,
although the French justly claimed to the Penobscot.
The negotiations between Franklin and Osw^ald were
carried on secretly, for the United States had been
bound, as a condition of the aid of France, not to make
a separate peace; and in the discussion, w^hen the
vagueness of this boundary was objected to, Franklin
marked on the map the negotiators w^ere using, a red
line to indicate the boundary proposed and adopted.
This map disappeared, and in later years endless dis-
cussion arose as to the true boundary ; for on actual
survey a line due north from the soui'ce of the St. Croix
did not intersect the northern boundary, but passed
ST. CROIX RIVEK. 115
through a gap in the hills, and although the real
meaning of the treaty was clear there was difficulty
in it8 verbal interpretation. \n 1835, Presirlent Jack-
son made a very lair proposal to the Bi'itish Govern-
ment to cut the (lordian knot of ditticultv which
threatened to result in war, but it was rejected by a
government of which Lord Palmerston was a member,
and the subject was postponed to " to a more conve-
nient season" — a veiy unsafe device of "practical"
8tatesmanship in intei'natioiuil disputes. The rejec-
tion of that proposal has caused the enormous curve
of the Intercolonial Eailway, and has cost the Cana-
dians many millions of dollars.
In 1842 a settlement was imperative. The Maine
and New Brunswick lumberers were almost at war on
the disputed territory. The United States had claimed
to within a few miles of the shore of the St. Lawrence,
in order that, after conceding something, they might
have more left than they were entitled to. Lord
Ashburton was sent out, and after much negotiation
the present extraordinar}- boundary was stumbled
upon. Some difficulty having been found in persuading
the Senate to accept this boundary, the map which
Franklin and Oswald had used was produced by Mr.
Webster, and the red line upon it, far south of the
Ashburton line, showed what an immense tract of
territory had been secured to the L^nited States beyond
what Franklin had contemplated. So the treaty was
confirmed.
THE ST. CROIX RIVER.
Upon a point jutting out into the sheltered and deep
basin of Passamaquoddy Bay stands St. Andrews — a
town of 2,128 inhabitants — well laid out and wdth an
air of respectability as if it had seen better days. And
so it has — for from herein 1832, only seven years after
the opening of the Stockton and Darlington Eailway
in England, was the projected railway to Canada to
116 ACADIA.
start, and this town was to be the wharf upon the Bay
ol'Fundy ol'the 8t. Lawrence valley.
This was a bold scheme lor that ])eriod, but it excited
much jealousy in the United States, and the boundary
bein^ still undetermined, the Stateof Maine laid chaim
to the Avhole tei'ritory between New Brunswick and
Canada. Owin^ to the discussion wdiich ensued, the
project was deferred ; until, in 1842, the colonists saw
the Ashburton Treaty signed, which alienated forever
the territoiy tlirough which the railway was to pass.
Let any cme look at the maj) — no skill in geography
is required to decide what was — what could only by
any possibility have been — the boundary arranged
between Franklin and Oswald in 1783. Even Frank-
lin never asked for that territory. Even Oswald
never thought of ottering it. The project was aban-
doned, and St. Andrews, sank into obscurity. All its
bright future as the winter j)ort of Canada faded away
and the rising town of St. Stephen, with its abundant
water power, took away the lumber trade, Still the
dream of those hardy dreamers is approaching fulfil-
ment. The railway is now being built from Canada,
through Maine, which will carry freight from Mont-
real to St. Andrews by a straight line eastward, and
justify the prescience of those who in 1836 promoted
the charter of the St. Andrews and Quebec Kailway.
Fourteen miles up the river, where further naviga-
tion is pi'evented by a fall, is the town of
St. Stephen, where are flourishing mills. Opposite
is the United States town of Calais. This region is
noted for the fact that when Great Britain and the
United States were at war in 1812, peace reigned upon
the St. Croix. Level headed men, addicted to the free
interchange of useful commodities, are not carried
away by martial ardor. So Calais and St. Stephen
were always at peace.
THE PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
The Province of Quebec in the oldest organized
province in the Confederation. It has always had
for strangers a singular charm, and the history of
its eai'ly days surpasses in interest that of any other
colony or province in America. Many historians,
native and foreign, have endeavored to do justice to
the romantic incidents of those early times, and the
traveller who may be curious to learn fun her of them
would do well to consult the histories of Miles, Fer-
land, Garneau, and especially the glowing pages of
Francis Parkman. Our task is upon the lower levels
of geography and statistics, and we can do little more
than indicate the authorities which lie ready to the
band of any inquirer.
The northern boundary of the province of Quebec is
the height of land which divides the waters flowing
northwards into Hudson's Bay from those which flow
into the St. Lawrence. This line continues westwards
until it reaches a point forty-five miles due north of
Lake Temiscamang, on the Ottawa. Thence the
western boundary starts, and, proceeding due south-
wards, it passes through the lake and follows the mid-
channel of the Ottawa river until it reaches the vil-
lage of Point Fortune, upon the western bank. There,
leaving the Ottawa, the western boundary strikes
through the country to the St. Lawrence, at River
Beaudette. This corner, which would seem properly
to belong to Ontario, was reserved to the ancient pro-
vince of Quebec, because, when Ontario, or Upper
Canada, was separated in 1791 as a distinct province,
the seigniories of Yaudreuil, Nouvelle Longueuil,
118 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
Soiilanges, and Eigaiul had been erected by the King
of France, and were settled by Frenchmen whose
existing laws and customs the English Government, as
bound by the Act of 1774, respected. In the com-
paratively unsettled country to the west, the province
of Ontario was created under English laws, and colon-
ized by English-speaking settlers.
Upon the south, Quebec is bounded by the line of
45° north latitude, until it reaches New Hampshire,
when, turning to the north-east, the boundary line
follows a meandering course until it reaches the pro-
vince of New Erunswick. This part of the boundary
has already been discussed in treating of New Bruns-
wick.
Upon the east, the Islands of Anticosti and the
Magdalen group are within the government of Que-
bec. A line drawn due north from Anse au Sablon,
near the Straits of Belleisle, on the Labrador coast,
until it intersects the northern boundary, marks the
eastern limit of the province. The remaining portion
of Labrador belongs to Newfoimdland.
The physical features of Quebec which strike the
toui'ist are those of an alluvial plain stretching upon
both sides of the Eiver St. Lawrence, at varying dis-
tances, to the Laurentian Mountains on the north, and
the Notre Dame, and Green Moimtains, and the
Adirondacks on the south. The first named mountains
approach the shores of the lower St. Lawrence very
closely, and add a solemn and impressive grandeur to
the scenery. Near Quebec they recede, and the rich
and fertile valley continuously opens out, widening to
the westward to the broad level country of Ontario.
From the Montreal Motmtain, on a clear day, these
opposing ranges can be seen in the blue distance on
the north and south, separated by the wide stretch of
alluvial soil below. The Laurentian chain of moun-
tains nowhere attains to a very great height. Mont
Eboulemens, on the St. Lawrence, is 2,547 feet high.
Some of the ridges farther in the interior, are stated
PHYSICAL FEATURES. 119
to be 4,000 feet. Ti-embling Mountain, in the county
of Argenteuil, is given by the officers of tlie Geologi-
cal Survey as 2,000 feet, but generally the height does
not exceed 1,500 feet. The whole of the Laurentian
country, as far as the watershed of Hudson's Bay, con-
sists geologically of early ciystalline rocks. The
hills are all worn into rounded forms ; for this is the
most ancient pai't of the continent of America. The
waves of the Silurian sea washed ai^ainst these hills
when but two small islands represented the remaining
part of the present continent. In the crystalline
limestones are the remains of the Eozoon Canadense,
earliest of all known forms of animal life. In the
same limestones graphite frequently occurs, and the
whole Lanrentian formation abounds in iron ores of
great purity. The country is studded with innumer-
able lakes, tempting the sportsman with their abun-
dance of fish. Over a thousand lakes are laid down
in the published maps of this region, and these are
the never-failing sources of many large rivers; for all
the larger tributaries of the St. Lawrence are from
the north. In the valleys of these countless streams
and lakes are tracts of fertile land, while the dense
forest which covers them supplies the timber which is
the chief export of Quebec.
South of the St. Lawrence the Notre Dame Moun-
tains follow the shore of the river nearly as far as
Father Point, whence, turning to the south-west, they
at last mingle with the Green Mountains of Vermont.
They attain in some places a height of 3,000 to 4,000
feet. The highest points are near the lower St.
Lawrence, and are sure to attract the attention of a
stranger leaving by the river. The bold bluffs of Capes
Chatte and St. Anne are striking objects from the
decK of a steamer, for the usual course of the outward
mail ships is close to this most rugged shore. The geo-
logical structure of those hills is later than that of the
Laurentides, and has been considered, together with
the country between them and the St. Lawrence, to
120 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
belong to the base of the Silurian system. The Chau-
diere river, in whose stream gold is found in paying
quantities, takes its rise in these hills; and in this for-
mation the copper mines ot Quebec are chiefly found.
The character of the country from the river to their
base is level and fertile, but as the hills ai*e ap-
proached the scenery becomes varied and rugged.
The province of Quebec is a land abounding in large
rivers. The great St. Lawrence flows through it with
a breadth varying from one mile, a little above Mon-
treal, to twenty miles at Cacouna, and forty miles
near Point des Monts, which may be considered as the
entrance to the Gulf Flowing into it from the north,
we have space to particularize only the larger
streams. The gloomy Saguenay, from 300 to 400
miles long; the St. Maurice, which has a still longer
course; the Ottawa, nearly 600 miles, with its tribu-
taries — the Gatineau, the Lievre and the Eouge — all
three veiy large streams. From the south, the Riche-
lieu, a large and beautiful river, bi-inging the waters
of Lakes George and Champlain ; the Chaudiere, and
the St. Francis. Besides these there are numberless
streams of minor importance in a river system such as
this, but which w^ould rank in volume with many of
the more celebrated streams of the old w^orld. The
Assumption, the Loup rivers, upper and lower, the
Chateauguay, the North river, and the Etchemin, are
all rivers of importance. Quebec can boast of none of
those great inland seas which are the chief features of
the western provinces. Some of the lakes ai'e, how-
ever, of considerable size. Lake St. John has an area
of 360 square miles, and Lake Temiscamang, 126
miles ; but in the immense number of its lakes and
their great natural beauty, Quebec is unsurpassed.
Tourists, who arrive for the most part in the sum-
mer months, will probably be surprised to encounter
an almost tropical heat in those ^^few square miles of
snotv'' so carelessly ceded to the British crown by a
frivolous French monarch. A few words will, there-
CLIMATE. 121
fore, be appropi-iate concerning the climate. The
isothermal line of mean annual temperature at Mon-
treal passes also through Leipzic in Saxony. The
mean temperature in summer is the same as that of
Orleans in France, and the mean winter temperature
resembles that of Moscow in Eussia.
The heat is sufficient in summer to bring wheat,
Indian corn, tomatoes, and the hardier kinds of
grapes, to perfection ; and the cold in winter some-
times reaches 20° below zero. Then, however, the soil
is covered with a thick mantle of snow ; the frost
does not penetrate deeply, and the roots of plants are
secure from injury until the heats of spring return
with their sudden and magical power. An English-
man, accustomed to the lingering and reluctant spring
of Great Britain, is astonished at the swiftness of the
change. It can scarcely be said hat there is a spring
season in Quebec, the tields put off their white livery
and don the tender green hues of early summer so
quickly under the powerful sun and clear skies of our
northern latitude. Vegetation advances with great
rapidity, for the melting of the frost and snow pul-
verizes the soil and prepares it for the seed. One
simple fact will, however, give a more certain indica-
tion of climate, and that is that maize is a regular
and certain crop in nearly the whole province of Que-
bec, a plant which will not ripen in England, and will
barely ripen in the north of France.
The winters have, therefore, no detrimental effect
upon vegetation, nor are they considered unpleasant
by strangers visiting the country at that season. The
air is dry and the skies clear. There are no fogs, no
raw damp winds, so wearing to invalids. Many from
the seaboard with pulmonary complaints have come
to reside during the winter at Quebec or Montreal, for
here, as at Minnesota in the West, the clear and
steady weather is beneficial in such complaints. The
sleighs, which make their appearance usually about
the first week in December, are not put away until
122 rROYINCE OF QUEBEC.
the following April, and tlie steady cold seldom
relaxes during the whole season. The people still
enjoy many out-door amusements ; and curling, snow-
shoeing, sleigh-driving, toboganning. and skating are
the pastimes of winter. The mighty St. Lawrence is
bound fast under the potent spell of frost from the
lakes to below Quebec city. Eoads are everywhere
made upon the ice, and the farmers bring in their
teams in long lines across the frozen winters, heavily
laden with their autumn treasures of hay and corn.
The ice roads are always marked out by spruce trees
stuck in the snow. A visitor in Avinter is sure to be
impressed with the weird scene in early morning or
evening, when, from a sky as warm with rosy tints
as in midsummer, the level beams of sunlight, glanc-
ing and brightening over the sea of quiet snowy fur-
rows, and glittering icy crests, strike along the line
of evergreens, marking the ice roads, upon the trains of
sjeighs, and light up the tinned roofs and ste^jples of
the distant city with brilliant splendour.
The province, though shorn of its ancient dimensions
by the Act of 1791, which constituted Upper Canada,
and by the lamentable w^eakness of the Imperial Gov-
ernment in its various capitulations to the United
States, still contains 188,688 square miles.
In regard to population, Quebec is excelled by the
province of Ontario; the figures being 1,359,027 in
Quebec, to 1,923,228 in Ontario. Of this number
1,073,820 are of French origin, in the province of
Quebec alone.
These figures showing the preponderance of the
French race in Quebec lead naturally to a short sketch
of the history of the pi'ovince, a consideration of which
can alone explain our present institutions. Although
discovered by Jacques Cartier in 1535, and visited again
by him in 1 536, it w-as not until 1608 that the first settle-
ment was made. This was at the present city of Quebec.
The true father of Canada was Samuel de'Champlain,
a man of rare practical talent, of great constancy and
HISTORY. 123
courage, and of lofty moral character. He was sent
out by a company of associated nobleman of France,
primaril}^ for the purpose of opening up a trade with
the Indians for peltries, and secondly for the purpose
of opening up a new field for the Christian religion.
It is necessary to dwell specially upon the religious
side of the foundation of the Cvdony in order to under-
stand its history. The Eoman Catholic religion was
then in the full tide of that enthusiasm which caused
the counter reformation, and devoted men and women
poured out their lives and treasures with cheerfulness
in the effort to spread its doctrines upon distant shores.
Hence it was that for many years the colony of France
took feeble hold upon the soil of Canada, It was more
a trading and missionary station than a plantation.
The Eecollet Fathers in 1615, and the Jesuits in 1625,
threw themselves into the missionary work, en-
couraged by Champlain, who, being a very earrest
* Catholic, concerned 'himself deeply in their efforts.
DeMonts, Chauvin, and many of the early patrons
of the colony were Huguenots ; but from the very first
it was stipulated that although the Huguenots might
share in the profits of the trade, the conversion of the
Indians was to be left entirely with the Eoman
Catholics. Later in 1627, when the company of one
hundred associates was formed, Montmorenci sold his
rights to his nephew deLevis, due de Yentadour, a
devout member of a monastic order. Then it was stipu-
lated that none of the settlers whom the associates
engaged to carry out to Canada should be other than
Catholic, and the religious zeal of the devout Catholics
of old France was more earnestly directed to Canada.
Noblemen and ladies, as w^ell as priests, threw them-
selves into the effort, and the foundations of institu-
tions were laid which exist to the present day almost
unchanged. Then followed in quick succession the
educational establishments of the XJrsulines, of the
EecoUets, of the Jesuits, of the Congregation of ladies
of Notre Dame, for the i-eligious training of the savage
124 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
tribes. The French colonists, with donbtfiil policy,
identified their fortunes with the Huron and Algon-
quin tribes, which they found in the valley of the
St. Lawrence, and thus imperilled for many years
their existence in a long and deadly struggle with
the rising power of the Iroquois confederation. A
remnant of the Huron tribe still remains at Old
Lorette, near Quebec, while the Pequods, the N^arra-
gansetts and other aboriginal tribes of New England
have been utterly exterminated.
The colony of New France then was founded upon
a religious basis, in the same manner as were the
colonies of New England. It is, however, a matter of
pride to the Canadian that the soil of New Fi'ance was
never polluted by the footsteps of the familiars of the
Inquisition, who loaded with infamy the annals of New
Spain. Nor have our historians ever to blush for deeds
such as the^'athers of New England perpetrated towards
those who differed from them in religious belief. While
in the colony of Plymouth men and women were
hanged for being Quakers, while others were impris-
oned and pilloried on suspicion of Anabaptism, Pre-
lacy, or Eomanism, while the gloomy superstition of
Salem witchcraft swept off its victims by dozens, the
only blood shed in Canada for the Christian faith was
the blood of its martyr missionaries. They were ready
to shed blood for their belief, but it was their own blood ;
they were ready to pour out life, but it was their own
lives. These are matters of history; to touch on
questions of religion is not the province of the writer
of a guide book. In the pages of Parkman the deeds
and the faith of these men are recounted with a vigour
and impartiality which does him honour, and with an
eloquence worthy of his theme. If at this present time
the French race manifests a vitality in Canada as
mysterious to its enemies as to the Frenchman of the
France of to-day, it is because of the imperishable
power of the self-sacrifice and heroism of so many of
those men, laymen as well as clerics, who planted the
HISTORY. 125
standard of France on the shores of the Eiver St.
Lawrence.
Passing, as not essential to our present purpose, the
history of the next hundred years, the struggles with
the Iroquois, and the wars with the British colonies
to the south, in which were achieved many gallant
enterprises and wei*e perpetrated many cruel deeds
of blood upon both sides; passing over also the
adventurous establishment of trading posts in the far
west and north-west, and the bold voyages of La Salle
and Hennepin, we come to the pei'iod when France
and England prepared to light a battle a Voutrance
upon the shores and in the forests of the new world.
The thirteen colonies then numbered three millions,
backed by large bodies of troops from England.
Canada barely numbered 60,000 souls, and was very
fitfully supporteJl by the French monarchy, then in
the last days of its decadence. Yet, great as the odds
appeared to be against the Canadians, the vigour and
consummate ability of the the men who ruled were
more than equal to the emergency, until the last
crowning effort of the English. In 1754 the war
commenced. Braddock was disgracefully beaten by
a handful of men, Abercrombie was defeated by one
fifth of his number, Oswego surrendered with disgrace,
the horrible tragedy of Fort William Henry was
enacted, and the year 1757 saw the French victorious
along the whole line of their border. With 1758 the
tide of war turned. Louisbourg on the east, and Fron-
tenac on the west, fell into English hands ; but although
the genius of Wolfe and Amherst wielded the British
power, resistance was obstinate. The struggle w^as
long and doubtftil at Quebec. The defeat of Montcalm
did not necessitate, however, the surrender of the
city, for in a very few weeks the approaching winter
would have compelled the British to re-embark.
Montcalm's trusted officers, deLevis and Bougainville,
were absent, and in the dismay which followed upon
his death Quebec was surrendered.
126 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC.
Scarcely had the British fleet left when the English
garrison found itself besieged by deLevis witli the
troops from Montreal and new militia levies. The
siege lasted all winter. In early spring the British
General Murray marched out to giv^e de Levis battle,
but was defeated at St. Foy, and contined within the
walls of Quebec. The knell of French dominion had,
however, been struck. The opening of navigation
brought the English fleet once more, and Murray was
succoured. DeLevis retired to make a last stand at
Montreal, which, slowly, the three English armies
under Amherst, Murray and Ilaviland, advanced to
besiege. On September 8th, 1760 the capitulation
was signed, by which Canada passed over to the
British Crown. It is upon the conditions of this
capitulation and of the treaty of peace which followed
in 1763, and upon the celebrated Quebec Act of 1774,
that the laws, language, and religion of France are
still established so tirmly in this province. It is
around these brilliant records that the national feeling
of the French Canadian loves to linger, and the
devoted lives of the early missionaries still feed the
flame of devotion in the Lower Canadian heart.
We have no space to sketch even an outline of the
remaining history. How for fifteen years the sceptre
of universal empire paused within reach of England's
grasp, and how she failed to seize it the histories of
the loyalists of New Brunswick and Ontario will
abundantly relate. The story of their history is full
of interest, and the reader may consult the larger
works for the details. One fact only we add, that the
generous treatment of the British Government so won
the hearts of the Canadian French that during the war
of 1812-14 they took up arms cheerfully in its defence,
and a British general officer in a private memorandum
to the Duke of Wellington could state that ''not a
single Lower Canadian militia-man was known to
desert to the enemy during the three years the war
continued."
CITY OF QUEBEC.
Whatever jealousies may exi^t anion;;- the cities
of the Dominion, all Canadians are proud of Que-
bec. Not that they think the Quebecers have done
their duty by her, not that they think the streets
could not be cleaner, nor the houses more regular,
nor the wharves more orderly; but they love Quebec
because the people are polite and hospitable before all
others, because the scenery is surpassingly beautiful,
and because the whole country around teems with asso-
ciations of historic interest. The resolute Champlain,
the haughty Frontenac, the heroic Wolfe, and the
Note. — It should have l>eon observed here, to avoid mis-
conception, that Wolfe was buried in the family vault under
the parish church of Greenwich. Neither the monuments
described, pp. 135, 187, nor the monument in Westminster
Abbey, nor the tablet at Westerham, nor the monument at
Stowe, mark the place of his interment. Frontenac's heart
was sent to France to the Countess <le Frontenac, who nevor
was in Canada.
though lower down the waters widen to a score of miles, and
at the gulf to a hundred. From the compression of the great
river at this spot the city derives its name, the word signify-
ing, in the native Indian tongue, the strait. On the east of
the city, along a richly fertile valley, flows the beautiful St.
Charles to join its waters wuth those of the great river. The
mingled waters divide to enclasp the fair and fertile isle of
Orleans.
'* The citv, as seen from a distance, rises statelv and
solemn, like a grand pile of monumental buildings. Cluster-
ing houses, tall, irregular with high pitched roofs, crowd the
long line of shore and climb the rocky heights. Great piles of
stone churches, colleges, and public buildings, crowned with
gleaming minarets, rise above the mass of dwellings. The
clear air permits the free use of tin for the roofs and spires,
and the dark stone-W'ork is relieved with gleaming light.
126 PROVINCE OP QUEBEC.
Scarcely had the British fleet left when the English
garrison found itself besieged by deLevis with the
troops from Montreal an<l new militia levies. The
siege lasted all winter. In early spring the British
General Murray marched out to give deLevis battle,
but was defeated at St. Foy, and contined within the
walls of (iuebec. The knell of French dominion had,
however, been struck. The opening of navigation
brought the h^nglish fleet once more, and Murray was
succoured. DeLevis retired to make a last stand at
Montreal, which, slowly, the three English armies
under Amherst, Murray and Haviland, advanced to
besiege. On September 8th, 1760 the capitulation
was signed, by which Canada njw^ai - —
Bl'iti»jV» ^"
..^IXV^V
yyjL to seize it the hi^^lories of
xne loyalists of New Brunswick and Ontario will
abundantly relate. The story of their history is full
of interest, and the reader may consult the larger
works for the details. One fact only we add, that the
generous treatment of the British Government so won
the hearts of the Canadian French that during the war
-of 1812-14 they took up arms cheerfully in its defence,
and a British general officer in a private memorandum
to the Duke of Wellington could state that "not a
single Lower Canadian militia-man was known to
desert to the enemy during the three years the war
continued."
CITY OF QUEBEC.
"Whatovcp joalonsies may exist amoiio^ the cities
of the Dominion, all Canadians are proud of (Jiie-
bec. Not tliat they think the Qiiehecers have done
their duty by her, not that they think the streets
coukl not be cleaner, nor the houses more regular,
nor the wliarves more orderly; but they love Quebec
because the people are polite and hospitable before all
others, because the scenery is surpassingly beautiful,
and because the whole country around teems with asso-
ciations of historic interest. The resolute Champlain,
the haughty Frontenac, the heroic Wolfe, and the
chivalrous Montcalm, repose here, resting amid the
scenes of their labours after the turmoil of their earnest
lives. Much has been written about Quebec, but Charles
Marshall, a young man of great j)romise, who died " too
early " on a homeward voyage from the East, gives, in
his '' Canadian Dominion," a description so graphic
that we cannot do better than make an extract from it.
" Unexampled for picturesciuenes and magniticence of posi-
tion on the American continent, and for the romance of her
historic associations, Quebec sits on lier impregnable heights
a queen among the cities of the New World.
" At her feet flows the noble St. Lawrence, the fit highway
into a great empire, here narrowed to a couple of miles breadth,
though lower down the waters widen to a score of miles, and
at the gulf to a hundred. From the compression of the great
river at this spot the city derives its name, the word signify-
ing, in the native Indian tongue, the strait. On the east of
the city, along a richly fertile valley, flows the beautiful St.
Charles to join its waters with those of the great river. The
mingled waters divide to enclasp the fair and fertile isle of
Orleans.
** The city, as seen from a distance, rises stately and
solemn, like a grand pile of monumental buildings. Cluster-
ing houses, tall, irregular with high pitched roofs, crowd the
long line of shore and climb the rocky heights. Great piles of
stone churches, colleges, and public buildings, crowned with
gleaming minarets, rise above the mass of dwellings. The
clear air permits the free use of tin for the roofs and spires,
and the dark stone-work is relieved with gleaming light.
128 CITY OF QUEnEC.
Above all rise the long dark lines of one of the world's famous
citadels, the (ii])raltar r»f America.
"Then still below, tlie shores are lined with warehouses
and quays and masses of shipping. All tbe surrounding
waters are filled with sails ; the srene is one of sunlight and
life. Stoamt^rs with their filmy lines of smoke, pass up and
down the river, or rapidly across, or tug with much noise
and short breath the heavy rafts of wood, acres wide covered
w ith hut villages, that float down from the inland waters.
At Pointe Levis, opposite the citadel, lie stranded or lazily
floating incalculable masses of this lumber, waiting for tran-
sit to the Britisii Isles, South America or Australia.
This exti-act vei-y fairly describes Quebec. Henry
Ward Beeeher, while te.stifyin<j^ to the wonderful
beauty of the scenery, was impressed by the oddity of
the city. He thus describes it : —
" Queer old Quebec ! Of all cities on the continent of
America, the quaintest. It is a populated cliff, a mighty rock,
scarped and graded and made to hold houses and castles,
which by all proj)er natural laws ought to slide off from its
back like an ungirded load from a camel's back. But they
stick. At the foot of the rocks the space of several streets has
been stolen from the river."
Mr. Beecher'n first experience on landing is thus
related : —
" Away we went, climbing the steep streets at a canter
with little horses hardly bigger than flies, and like flies, with
an aptitude for climbing perpendicular walls. It was strange
to enter a walled city through low and gloomy gates on this
continent of America. Here was a small bit of mediseval
Europe perched upon a rock and dried for keeping, in this
north-east corner of America, a curiosity that has not its
equal, in its kind, on this side the ocean."
The medieval monuments of Quebec are fast pass-
ing aw^ay. The ancient gates, so dear to American
travellers, have been rejjlaced by brand new structures
or removed altogether. Before long the walls will be
swept away, and boulevards will mark their place.
Our United States cousins, travelling in search of
THE TI ARBOUR. 129
romantic Bcnsatioiin, will miss them, but tlie native
Quebeecr does not ajjpreciate his jn-ivileges, and thirsts
to replace the unique quaintness of the ancient struc-
tures by the parvenu stitfness of more modern archi-
tecture.
Six times have the walls of Quebec been assailed ]»y
enemies. In lt>29, theP^riLcli^h, under Sir David Kirke,
captured the town and sent its jL^arrison to p]n<j:land as
prisoners of war. Restored by treaty to the French
Crown, Quebec again, in 1090, saw a hostile fleet, that
of Sir William Phipps ; but thoui,di the town was bom-
barded, the English fleet liad to retire unsuccessful. In
1711 an expedition was planned both by land and sea.
but proved abortive. Admiral Walker's fleet was pre-
vented by fogs and storms from reaching the city ;
many of his shijjs were lost, and 800 of his men were
drowned. To the pious Canadians of that day it was
a direct intervention of Providence. In 1759 followed
the siege and capture by Wolfe; in 17G0 the unsuc-
cessful siege of the English garrison by deLevis ; and
lastly in 1775, the siege under Montgomery and
Arnold.
Quebec is not only remarkable foj* beauty of site and
interesting from historic association, but is worthy of
study on account of being the centre of the lumber
trade and the largest shipping port for timber in the
world.
Passing to a more detailed descripton of those points
in Quebec of interest to the tourist we first notice
The Harbour.— Distant though it is from the sea the
harbour of Quebec is one of the few in America deep
enough for the ''Great Eastern.'' Nevertheless, the
changes in trade have compelled improvements on a
lari^e scale. The Princess Louise Embankment at the
mouth of the St. Charles, encloses a tidal harbour
having an area of 20 acres, and with 24 feet of depth
at low water. Connected with it is a wet dock, to have
a permanent depth of 27 feet, with an area of 40 acres.
9
130 CITY OF QUEBEC.
The embankment ij> 4000 feet long by 330 feet ^vide.
Nearly one million of dollars has been expended upon it.
On the opposite side at Pointe Levis, the Lome
Graving Dock', a work of great magnitude, is fast
approaching completion. The expenditure so far
amounts to $419,096. The dimensions are to be :
length, 500 feet; width, 100 feet; depth, 25J feet;
width of entrance, C2 feet.
During the year ending June, 1883, the departui*es
for sea of vessels from this port were 653, with an
aggregate tonnage of 631,213 tons.
Hotels.— The St. Louis, in Lewis Street, is the largest
hotel. The Albion, in Palace Street, is a very good
hotel. Henchey's, in Ann Street, is a comfortable
commercial house. If the Quebec people had left the
old gates and rebuilt the hotels, tourists w^ould have
been better pleased. As the Quebecers entertain
mediaeval views upon the subject of outside traders,
commercial ti-avellers before opening their samples
would do well to see about their licenses.
Foundation.— Quebec was founded in 1608 by Samuel
de Champlain. Seventy years previous to that date,
in 1535, Jacques Cartier, on his second voyage to
America, had discovered the St. Lawi-ence, and that
winter he passed in Canada, miserably enough, for
having no idea of the nature of the climate, he had
not made proper preparations either for food or for
clothing. He moored his vessels in the St. Charles
Eiver, close to the spot wdiere the Dorchester Bridge
now stands, and built huts on the east bank. The
site where St. Roeh's suburbs now stands was occu-
pied by an Indian town, called by the natives
Stadacona, and ruled by a chief called Donnacona.
In 1541, Cartier passed another winter in Canada,
but not at the former station. He chose a spot at
Cap Rouge on account of its greater defensibility, for,
having played the shabby trick of carrying off the
THE CITADEL. 131
hospitable Donnacona on his previous visit, and the
chief having died in France, he did not care again to
trust the Indians. The following spring he returned
to France, and Quebec remained unsettled by Euro-
peans until Champlain's arrival in 1608. Champlain,
then, is the true founder of Quebec and pioneer of
civilization in Canada, a man of whom Canad'ans are
justly proud. He died an<l was buried in Quebec.
Only recently his burial-place was discovered under
the Champlain Steps in the vault of an old chapel.
His work has endured; of the 62,000 inhabitants of
the city of Quebec at this day, 46,000 still speak his
language.
The Citadel. — Passes to visit the Citadel were
formerly required from the military author ies, but
are not now necessary. In former years, before the
evacuation of the country by Great Britain, a full
infantry regiment was always quartered here, besides
artillery and engineers. It is now held by a small
body of Dominion troops.
Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is a
precipitous promontory rising 350 feet perpendicularly
from the river. From the elevated plateau upon which
the city is built, and from the Plains of Abraham
adjoining, the height is much less and the slope more
gradual, still, the lofty fortress domineers over the
whole surrounding country.
The visitor approaches the works through a steep,
winding road up the glacis, flanked by walls of stout
masonry, and peered at by ports and loop-holes which
scan his approach from all imaginable angles. The main
body of the work is entered across a bridge, over a
deep ditch, and through a massive gate called the
Dalhousie Gate, after the Earl of Dalhousie, Governor-
General in 1829. Here the main guard is placed, and
the officer of the day takes his post. Inside, the
summit of the cliff has been so far levelled as to make
a large parade ground for the garrison. Around,
under the walls, are the barracks and store-houses.
132 CITY OF QUEBEC.
The large stone building is the officers' quarters.
Magazines, armories, and store-houses occupy suit-
able situations, and encircling all are the green slopes
of the ramparts above,surmounted by the grey line of
the walls, turning with sharp angles into each bastion,
and ornamented with cannon and formal geometric
piles of black shot and shell.
Mounting the ramparts the visitor will view a scene
of surpassing beauty. Standing upon the very beak
of the promontoiy, which juts out into the broad
undulating vallc}^, he sees the land rising, slope upon
slope, until the purple mountains close in the view.
These slopes, studded with villages, crowned with
bright steeples, look down, as from some gigantic
amphitheatre, upon the river-basin and shipping.
Walking westward, along the ramparts, the visitor
will obtain a good view of the Plains of Abraham,
where the decisive battle was fought, as well as of
the precipitous bank up which Wolfe's army climbed
on that September night so fatal to French power in
the western world.
Fortifications.— Although from the earliest period of
settlement fortifications were necessary against the
Indians, the outline of the present constructions is
due to M. deLery, who, in 1720, planned the defences
much as they exist at the present day. In 1759 they
were repaired by the English garrison which was
left in occupation during the winter ; and again in
1775 to resist the Americans under Montgomery.
Important additions have since been made from time
to time by the British Government, especially in 1823
when the citadel was buill .
At the end of St. Lewis Street is the St. Lewis Gate,
opening out into the Grande Allee, where are situated
the Skating Rink and the new Houses of Parliament.
This gate is a ncAV construction replacing the old histo-
ric gate. Next, to the right is the Kent Gate, an entirely
new gate opened to relieve the pressure of traffic.
THE FORTIFICATIONS 133
The corner stone of this gate was laid by H. E.H.
the Princess Louise. The Queen subscribed largely
to the cost of its erection, and it is named after her
father. Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, who lived in Que-
bec for many years and was very much liked by the
Canadians. St. John's Gate is the next, leading out
into the most populous suburb. It was rebuilt in 1865.
The main business of Quebec with the surrounding
country being carried on through this gate, it was
the first to feel the innovating spirit of the age. From
the top a splendid prospect over the valley of the St.
Charles will reward the tourist. From hence the walls
are continued along the edge of the clitfs overlooking
St. Roch's suburbs to the site of Palace Gate, at the
foot of Palace Street. In 1775 the American army
occupied the suburbs of St. Roch. On the night of
the 31st December of that year a sally of the garrison
from the Palace Gate took Arnold's men in rear while
they were making an attempt upon one of the barriers
of the Lower Town. From this point a high wall
and parapet is continued to the site of Hope Gate,
thence to a cliif called the Sault-au-Matelot. Here is
the Grand Battery commanding the harbour. From
hence the wall continued to Prescott Gate, demolished
in 1871, through which all travellers by railway or
steamer used to pass before entering the Upper Town.
To force this gate was the object of the night attack
of Dec. 31st, 1775. Montgomery, advancing from the
west, and Arnold from the east, were to meet at
Mountain Street and carry the gate with their united
forces. Montgomery, with 700 men, marched along
the road now known as Champlain Street as far as a
spot called Pres-de-Yille. Here were posted a battery
of guns and a guard of forty-five men behind a barrier
in a narrow defile between the river and the rock.
Supposing the guard to be ignorant of their approach,
the assailants charged at a run, but were niet by a
volley at close range, which scattered them and killed
their general. A slab upon the rock above now marks
134 CITY OF QUEBEC.
the spot where he fell. The attack led by Arnold
from St. Eoch's suburb was mo]'e obstinate. The first
barrier at the eastern end of Sault-au-Matelot Street
was carried. Here Arnold was wounded, and had to
be borne to the rear. His troops, passing through
the street, came to another barrier, which resisted all
their efforts, and having been taken in the rear by a
sally of the garrison from Palace Gate, they sur-
rendered to the number of 42G. In visiting this locality
it must be borne in mind that the river came much
closer to the cliif than at present.
Squares and Monuments.— Quebec, being mounted up
so high in the atmosphere, scarcely requires squares
or parks for breathing-places. But Quebec has that
which is better than any park or square in
Dufferin Terrace.— This is a very beautiful promenade
on the brow of the precipitous cliff overhanging the
Lower Town. It is a very favourite spot among
Quebecers, and commands a magnificent view of the
harbour and of the Point Levis side of the river. It
is upon the site of the old Castle of St. Louis, which
was burned in 1834. The site was levelled and the
platform laid down by the Earl of Durham, but in
1878, during the administration of the Earl of Dufferin,
it was extended to four times its original size, and its
name changed from Durham Terrace. It is now 1420
feet in length, and 182 feet above the river. There
is nothing elsewhere like it for extent of promenade
or for grandeur of scenery. On fine summer evenings
to congregate there is, with Quebecers, almost a reli-
gious duty. When the band plays there they cannot
stop in their houses. Opposite, upon the south or
Point Levis side of the river, can be seen the fortifica-
tions rendered necessary by the increased range of
modern artillerv. These works are not armed, the
Government of Great Britain having changed its
policy since they were begun.
governor's garden. 135
The Governor's Garden.— This is the only park in
Quebec and it is a very small one, but it has, how-
ever, an ornament of interest in the column erected in
1827, by a public subscription, to the memory of Wolfe
and Montcalm which was started by the Earl of
Dalhousie. The inscription upon the front is gene-
rally admired for its elegant brevity, and was written
by I)r. Fisher, of Quebec. It is
Mortem. Virtus. Communem
Famam. Historia.
monumentum. posteritas.
Dedit.
Which may be thus rendered :
Valour gave a united death,
History, a united fame;
Posterity, a united monument.
On one side is the name "Wolfe," upon the other the
name "Montcalm," and in the rear a long inscrip-
tion in Latin stating that the foundation of the monu-
ment was laid by Governor-General the Earl of
Dalhousie in the reign of George lY ., to the memory
of Wolfe and Montcalm.
The Place d'Armes.— This is an open space near
Dutterin Terj-ace, an enlargement of the old French
parade ground by taking in the site of the old EecoUet
buildings, which were destroyed by fire.
The St. Foy Monument.— Every visitor to Quebec
should drive out a few miles on the St. Foy road, and,
turning off by a cross road, return to the city by the
St. Lewis road. The drive will pass many points of
interest and beauty. A short distance beyond the
toll-gate, on the St. Foy road, is a monument to com-
memorate a battle fought exactly 100 years previously
upon that locality. It was the last struggle for dom-
136 CITY OF QUEBEC.
inion. Murray, with his small Enc^lish garrison, was
alone in Canada, cooped up in Quebec with the whole
country in arms against him, and closed in by winter
from all succour. He marched out to meet deLevis,
and was repulsed and forced to retire within the walls.
deLevis commenced to bombard the town, but before
he could make much ])rogress the spi'ing opened and
British reinforcements arrived. Around the spot
marked by the monument the tiercest struggle raged.
The monument is of bronzed metal upon a stone
base. Upon the face fronting the road is the inscrip-
tion
AUX BRAVES DE 1760, ERIGE PAR LA SOCIETE ST.
JEAN BAPTISTE DE QUEBEC, 1860.
On one side is the word Murray^ with the arms of
Grreat Britain, and on another Levis, with the arms of
Eoyal France. On the fourth side are the arms of
Canada. The windmill also portrayed upon this side
recalls the bloody struggle around the mill which
formed the key of the position. The inscriptions
upon monuments, like those upon tombstones, are
often lacking in that severe accuracy of statement
which records so enduring would seem to demand.
This is no exception. It was erected by a public
subscription among the citizens of Quebec generally
to which the English very largely contributed,
although it marks an English defeat. The statue
which surmounts it was the gift of Prince Jerome
Napoleon. It is of bronze and represents Bellona.
The St. Jean Baptiste Society managed the fund,
however, and superintended the inau guration.
Crossing over to the St. Lewis road and returning
to the city, the tourist soon arrives at the Plains of
Abraham, where the great battle of 1759 was fought.
At that time this plain stretched, unbroken by in-
closures, level from the river bank to the walls save
where scattered bushes afforded shelter to marksmen.
PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 13*7
Other markmen were posted in the flanking woods.
The English were inferior in number to their oppo-
nents, but they were all trained troops. They had time
to get up but one gun. To them defeat was certain
destruction, for to re-embark in the face of a victorious
enemy was impossible. Success jus titled the enter-
prise of Wolfe, but, had the fortune of war turned the
other way, his reputation would have been ruined.
Montcalm's most trusted officers, deLevis and Bourla-
maque, were absent at Montreal or on the Eichelieu,
yet he might well have hoped for success. He has
been blamed for giving battle, but delay would have
given the English time to intrench, and criticism is
easy after the event.
The story of the battle is too well known to need
recital. The spot where the dying general heard the
victorious shout of his troops is marked by a small
column with the simple legend
HERE DIED WOLFE VICTORIOUS.
Not far off the curious visitor may find the place still
called ''Wolfe's Cove," where the landing was made.
A path leads down the steep bank to the cove on the
river side.
The Esplanade.— This is a level and pleasant spot
under the ramparts, between St. Lewis and St. John's
gates, used as a parade ground for troops and a
promenade for the citizens.
RELIGIOUS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
The Ursuline Convent.— In the early days of the
colony, when the Jesuit Fathers were carrying to the
far-off westera tribes the doctrines of their church, the
Superior at Quebec used to send to France an annual
account of the work done among the savages. These
" Jesuit Relations," as they are now called, corres-
ponded to the present reports of missionary societies,
138 CITY OF QUEBEC.
and were eagerly read throughout France, and stirred
np the piety and zeal of devout Catholics.
The Jesuits made an earnest appeal on behalf of
the female children of the Indians. This inflamed the
ardour of a noble and devout ladv, Madame de la
Peltrie, who resolved to devote her life and fortune
to the spiritual and secular education of the Indian
girls in the wilds of Canada. Associating with herself
three Ursuline nuns, she sailed for Canada in 1639,
and, after many privations and hardships, succeeded
in founding the institution which still exists, covering
about seven acres of i^round in Garden Street.
Although to Madame de la Peltrie is due the inception
of the scheme and the funds with which it was com-
menced, its success was mainly owing to the first Su-
perioress, Marie de I'lncarnation, a remarkable woman,
called by Eossuet the St. Theresa of the New World,
who united an almost ecstatic fervour to practical
talents of the highest order. Incited and supported
by supernatural dreams and visions, her indomitable
energy overcame all discouragement. Twice the
convent was burned to the ground, pestilence and
famine decimated the small band of colonists and
native converts, the Indian children were unexpectedly
indocile, even when persuaded to listen ; but the zeal
of this woman never flagged, and her courage never
grew faint. In the vision she saw, while praying
before the Sacrament at Tours before she entered
on her work, the whole land of Canada was shewn
her, rugged with the primeval forest ; and the memory
of the Heavenly voice which sent her on her mission,
supported her under all her trials. The community
now numbers in Quebec about eighty professed sisters,
instructing from 400 to 500 pupils. Branch houses
have been established at Lake St. John and at Stan-
stead. The Ursulines of Three Eivers, though now
independent, sprang from the Quebec establishment,
and the convent at Boston, destroyed in 1834 by a
fanatical mob, had been founded by nuns of this order.
HOSPITALS. 139
Visitors will i-equire special permission to go
beyond the parlour and the chapel. This last is of
special interest, for here repose the remains of Mont-
calm. Mortally wounded while attempting to rally
his men, he was carried to the Ursuline Convent,
where he died. A marble slab in the church per-
petuates his memory. The chapel was built in 1724.
It contains some good original paintings.
The Hotel Dieu.—This institution was founded in
1639, by the Duchess d'Aguillon, niece of Cardinal
Richelieu. At her instance three Sisters from the
Convent of the Hospitalieres at Dieppe sailed for
Canada in the same vessel which carried Madame de
la Peltrie and the Ursuline nuns. They soon found
employment, for the small-pox broke out with great
virulence in the small colony. After changing their
residence several times they finally settled, in 1646,
on the present site of their institution, between Hope
Gate and Palace Gate. Here their buildings gradually
grew to their present dimensions. The present build-
ings were commenced in 1654, and received large
additions in 1672 and in 1696. The community
consists of about 62 professed nuns, who devote them-
selves to attending to the sick and affording gi'atu-
itous relief to poor out-door patients.
The chapel contains some good paintings, notably
one by Eustache Le Sueur.
The General Hospital.— This establishment was found-
ed in 1692 by the second Bishop of Quebec, for the
purpose of receiving aged, infirm and sick poor. Four
Sisters of the Hospitalieres of the Hotel Dieu com-
menced the work in a convent upon the River St,
Charles, owned by the Recollet Fathers. The property
was bought from the Fathers by the Bishop, and is the
site of the present fine hospital. It became indepen-
dent of the Mother House in 1701, and now" contains
about seventy professed Sisters. Situated in St. Roch's
140 CITY OF QUEBEC.
8ubur])s, outside the walls, it became a refuge for all
of the religious orders during the siege of (Quebec in
1751). Here many wounded soldiers l)oth of the Eng-
lish and French armies were conveyed and nursed with
care and assiduity.
The Marine Hospital.—This noble building is very
conspicuouslj' sitL:atod upon the bank of the 8t. Charles
River. It was built in 183-4, and is designed for the
cure of sick sailors from the hundreds of vessels trad-
ing at the port. Eveiy comfort has been pi'ovided here
for the friendless sailor ; skilful advice, careful nursing,
and large recreation grounds.
The Basilica.— Quebec does not contain many fine
churches. The Roman Catholic Cathedral will at
once arrest attention, by its peculiar style or absence
of style. It is the most foreign looking building in
Quebec, and situated as it is upon the irregular open
space (for it cannot be called a square) near the mar-
ket, a stranger can scarcely realize the fact that he is
in America, and not in some out of the way town in
Normandy or Central Fi\ance. The Cathedral was erect-
ed in 1G66 by Monseigneur de Laval, the first Bishop of
Quebec. The interior is very interesting, and contains
some good pictures, among which are a Saint Paul, by
Carlo Maratta, and a Christ, by Van Dyck. The vest-
ments are probably more gorgeous in adornment than
anywhere else in America. Many of them w^ere gifts
from the French kings. The church is the See of the
Archbishop of Quebec. In 1874 Pope Pius IX elevated
it to the rank of a Basilica Minor. It is the only
church of that dignity in America.
The Anglican Cathedral.— This fine church occupies
a considerable portion of the site of the old Recollet
Monastery. It was erected in 1804, at the expense of
the English Government. Many monuments of inter-
est are contained in it, and specially one to Bishop
CHURCHES. 141
Mountain, (the first of the name), Bishop of Quebec.
The tine Htainccl glass window is to commemorate the
second Bisho]> Mountain. In tliis church the Duke of
Eichmond wan buried, who, while Govei'nor-General,
died of hydrophob''^ from the bite of a tame fox. The
Hplendid communion service, altar-cloth, and service
books are the gift of George III.
The Church of Notre Dame des Victoires. — A small
church in the Lower Town, called at first Notre
Dame de la Victoire in 1090, to commemorate the re-
pulse of Sir AVilliam Phipps. A flag shot aw\ay from
Phipps' ship, which some Canadians swam out for and
brought to shore, used to adorn this church as a trophy.
In nil, w^hen Walker's expedition was scattered fy
storms in the river, the Quebecers fancied that it w^as
by a miraculous interposition of Providence, and so
they changed the name to Notre Dame des Victoires^
The irregular square on w^hich the little church stands
is most quaint and picturesque. '* Break-neck steps "
are quite neai-, leading up little Champlain street. A
bit of Europe in the 17th century is \evy precious in
a new country.
Many other commodious churches testify to the
piety of the people of Quebec.
Parliament Buildings.— This is an imposing block of
buildings just completed. They are in the form of a
quadrangle, and are situated on a commanding site
outside St. Louis Gate upon the Grande All^e. They
live built in Fi'ench lYth century style, and are most
substantial in construction as well as ornamental in
design. The Provincial Legislature meets here, and
all the departmental offices are clustered together here
under one roof.
The Seminary and Laval University.— Among the men
of ability w4io have left indelible ti*aces upon the
history of the province, none surpass Francois de
142 CITY OP QUEBEC.
Laval, first Bishop of Qiichec. Born of tho noblo
family of Montnioi'oncM, he liad all tho vii^our, all tho
courage, ami a full ])i'o|)oi-tioii of the pi-ide which
belonged to his lineage. He ai'rived at (Quebec in 1058,
and assumed, with no falteririi^ .i^i'Jisp, the reins of eeelo-
siastical power. lie destroyed the independence of tho
missionaiy or«^anizati()n, and divided the country into
regular pai'ishes. lie tbunded, in 1003, the Seminary
of (Quebec, tho Gran<l Seminary for the theological
training of clergy for his diocese, and the Little Semi-
nary for general education. To this institution ho
devoted all his wealth, and after thirty years labour in
the colony, ho retired to spend within its walls tho
remainder of his life. In 1852 the Seminary was
transformed into tho Laval University, and the great
design of its founder ultimately realized. Tho univer-
sity building now stands out in tho forefront of the
Upper Town, conspicuous for magnitude, solidity and
stilfness. Within, it is furnished lavishly with all tho
appliances of modern teaching : a splendid library of
77,000 volumes, and costly apparatus, convenient lec-
ture-rooms and spacious halls. The main building is
297 feet long, and five stories high. A wing 2()5 foot
long was added in 1880. It is fire-proof, and is sur-
mounted by a dome from which magniticent views
may bo had over tho country in all directions. With-
out, it is utterly bare of ornament, and rigid as its
founder. Tho hall of entrance is of noble proportions.
On each flat a corridor runs down tho centre, 8 feet
wide, and 265 feet long. Tiie Natural History collec-
tions are very complete, and the collection upon North
American Archaeology is also well worth a visit. It is
tho best in Canada. The Herbarium contains 10,000
plants, and the Ornithological collection comprisoa
600 species. The University has a very largo staff
of Professors, and takes place in the front rank of
educational institutions in the Dominion. Fourteeen
colleges and four grand Seminaries are affiliated to this
University, which grants degrees in the FacuHies of
COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. 143
Arts, Theoloi^y, Law and Medicine. The Imildincrs of
the Seminary adjacent are nnudi more ])ictureMque.
Thcvaryini^ heii^lil and ii-re^ular stylo of the building
und the enclosed court ai-e pleasanter to the eye if not
80 suited to the present utilitai'ian a«4'e. The cha))el
of the Semiiiarv^ is well worth a visit. It contains some
tine ori;;"inal paintings.
Morrin College.— This institution owes its origin to
a becjuest of the late Di*. Mori'in, of Quebec. It is
under the manag(^nient of the Presbyterian bo<ly, and
is alfiliate<l with McGill University, Montreal. In the
same building are the rooms of the
Literary and Historical Society, founded in 1825 by
the aid of the Kai'l of JJalhousie. It has a good libi'ary
of books on the History of Canada. Lectures are given
and Transactions published from time so time.
The Normal School.— This quaint building is situated
on Dutferin Terrace (at the part of it properly called
Durham Terrace). It was built in 1784 by Governor
llaldimand, and is sometimes called after him, Haldi-
mand Castle. The stone built into the wall bearing
date 1G-I7, belonged to the bastion of Fort St. Louis,
which has long since disappeared. It w^as dug up in
1*784 and built into the wall, but the date commemo-
rates the completion of the vanished bastion.
The Post Office.— This is a handsome edifice, built of
Cap Eouge limestone. It replaces an ancient building
which used to excite the curiosity of strangers. The
effigy of Champlain over the entrance in Buade Street
looks down on the busy crowd. Close to it is the
celebrated Chien d'Or, sole relic of the former build-
ing, telling in bright new gilding its old story of
revenge and murder. As the stone has been preserved
the story must be told.
144 CITY OF QUEBEC.
The former Post Office was a house which, in those
days, might almost be called a palace, occupied in the
year 1748 by an eminent merchant of Quebec, Mons.
Phillibert. He had quarrelled with the notorious Inten-
dant BiiTOt, the second man in New France, who was
then in the full tide of that peculation and insolence
which sapped the pow^r of France in the new as well
as in the old world. To express his hatred, Phillibert
had this rough sculpture placed over his door, with
the legend in old French : —
" Je Suis Vn Chien Qvi Eonge L'os
en le rongeant je prends mon Repos,
Vn temps viendra qvi n'est pas venv,
Qve je morderay qvi m'avra mordv.''
Bigot, in return, quartered troops upon him. An
insult from the officer in command of the soldiers
quartered in his house was resented with a blow by
Phillibert. The officer drew his sword and ran the
merchant through the body. He then fled from
Quebec and took refuge in Acadia. The influence of
Bigot soon procured letters of pardon from Louis XY .
The officer returned to Quebec, registered his letters,
and satisfied the widow with a money compensation.
His promotion soon followed, and the murder of the
merchant was forgotten by all, excepting by a son of
Phillibert, a lad of eleven years, a quiet and reserved
youth, of brooding and austere habits. Arrived at
manhood, young Phillibert left Quebec for France.
A few months after his departure his mother received
a letter, " My dearest mother, w^e are avenged; my
fathers murderer is no more." The vengeance of the
son had overtaken the murderer in the streets of
Pondicherry in the East Indies.
This is the story as given by Lemoine and others
who have written about Quebec. This same Chien
d'Or could tell many stories of old days if he could
speak. He could tell of the flirtations of tne beautiful
Mary Simpson with Captain Horatio Nelson of H.M.S.
EXCURSIONS. 145
Albemarle, afterwards the great Admiral, and of the
agonised feelings of the too susceptible hero wlien his
cooler-headed (or hearted) fiiend Davison got him off
to sea unmarried, and pi'evented him. almost by
violence, perhaps from settling in Canada. The new
Post Office is a handsomer building than its prede-
cessor, but those who delight in stories of love and
murder will always regret the old quaint and gloomy
building which it has replaced.
EXCURSIONS.
Interesting and beautiful as Quebec may be, w^ith
its quaint buildings and legendary memories, the
drives and excursions from the city surpass the
attractions of the citv itself. Let the tourist not fail
to visit the Falls of Montmorenci. Mr. VV. T>. Howells
thus describes them : —
" The lofty bluff was scooped inward from the St. Law^-
rence, in a vast irregular semicircle, with cavernous hollows,
one within another, sinking far into its sides, and naked
from foot to crest, or meagrely wooded here and there with
evergreen. From the central brink of these gloomy purple
chasms the foamy cataract launched itself, and like a cloud,
" Along the cliff to fall, and pause and fall did seem."
I say a cloud, because I find it already said to my hand, as
it w^ere, in a pretty verse, and because I must needs liken
Montmorency to something that is soft and light. Yet a
cloud does not represent the glinting of the water in its
downw^ard swoop ; it is like some broad sloj)0 of sun-smitten
snoW' ; but snow is coldly white and opaque, and this has a
creamy warmth in its luminous mass ; and so there hangs
the cataract unsaid as before. It is a mystery that anything
so grand should be so lovely, that anything so tenderl> fair
in whatever asi)ect should yet be so large 'that one glance
fails to comprehend it all. The rugged wildness of the cliffs
and holiows about it is softened by its gracious beauty,
which half redeems the vulgarity of the timber merchant's
uses in setting the river at work in his saw-mills and choking
its outlet into the St. Lawrence with rafts of timber and
10
146 CITY OP QUEBEC.
ruV>bish of slabs and shingles. Nay, rather, it is alone
amidst these things, and the eye takes note of them by a
separate etfort."
The Natural Stej^^. a mile and a-half above the falls,
should be visited. The river has cut its way down
through the Trenton limestone to the underlying
gneiss. It has formed a deep I'avine through which
the water swirls in a raj^id current.
The Falls of Lorette.— This charming and romantic
spot ought to be visited. Marshall says that "the
Lorette cascades would give fjime and fortune to any
spot in England or France." Though not so frequently
visited, they are by many preferred to the Montmo-
renci Falls. At the village reside the remnant of the
once powei"ful tribe of Hurons. Flying in terror
from their relentless foes, the Iroquois, they left
their ancient abodes in the West, and settled here
under French protection. Parkman, in one terse
sentence, embodies the history of the Indians of
America. " Spanish civilization crushed the Indian;
English civilization scorned and neglected him;
French civilization embraced and cherished him."
The chapel was erected in 1731, The settlement
dates from 1697.
The Chaudiere Falls.— These falls are within easv
reach of Quebec, and will well repay a visit.
We have not exhausted the attractions of Quebec.
Many days might be spent by a nature-loving visitor
in exploring the surrounding country — the lakes full
of fish, and beautiful as dreamland — Lake St. Charles,
Lake Beauport, and many others ; our space, but not
our theme is exhausted. Those who w^ish to pursue
the subject further may do so in *' Picturesque
Quebec," and in the other publications of Mr. J. M.
Lemoine.
THE CITY OF MONTREAL.
The city of Montreal, the chief city of Canada,
althouii-h not the seat of Government even of its own
Province of Quebec, is situated upon the southeast
side of a triangular island formed by the mouths of
the Ottawa, where, after a course of 600 miles, it
debouches into the St. Lawrence. The city is built
upon the left or northern bank of the St. Lawrence.
The clear blue water of that river and the more tur-
bid stream of the Ottawa meet near Montreal at so
acute an angle that their waters do not mingle, but
the line of junction may be traced for many miles
below, the St. Lawrence water washing the right
hand and the Ottawa the left hand bank.
The population of the city, at the last cenr-us, was
140, Y4Y of whom 78,684 were of French and 28,995 of
Irish origin. As to religion 103,579 were Eoman Catho-
lics. That census which was taken in 1881 showed
an increase of 33,522 in the preceding ten j^ears.
During the present j ear the municipality of Iloche-
laga was annexed, with a population of about 5,500.
The total population of the Island was 193,171.
The estimated value of the real estate is $84,802,380
and the present municipal taxes amount to $7.50
per head of the population. The length of the city is
nearly foui- miles and its breadth is two miles. It is
narrowed, however, by Mount Royal, which, forming
its chief ornament, rises boldly in rear of the city.
Suburban towns and villages, such as St. Cunegonde,
St. Jean-Baptiste and St. Henri, are spreading out
fast, and the mountain will shoitly be surrounded by
contiguous buildings.
148 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Every visitor arriving by the i-iver must notice the
Custom House, a handsome triangular building of 'gray
stone, upon the river front, with its apex pointing
eastwards, and a clock upon the eastern tower. This
marks a triangular piece of ground, which, in old
days, was formed by a little stream falling there into
the main river. Upon this spot, on the 18th of May,
1642, Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, laid
the foundatiCiis of Ville-Mark de Montreal and here
was planted that grain of mustard seed which, in the
words of the enthusiastic Yimont, would soon grow
and overshadow the land. The story of the founding
of Montreal is well told by Parkman, but we have
space for only a short extract : —
''Maisonneuve sprang ashore, and fell on his knees.
jlis followers imitated his example ; and all joined
their voices in enthusiastic songs of thanksgiving.
Tents, baggage, arms and stores, were landed. An
altar Avas raised on a pleasant spot near at hand ; and
Mademoiselle Mance, with Madame de la Peltrie, aided
by her servant Charlotte Barre, decorated it with a
taste which was the admiration of the beholders. Now
all the company gathered before the shrine. Here
stood Yimont in the rich vestments of his office. Here
were the two ladies with their servant ; Montmagny,
no very willing spectator, and Maisonneuve, a war-
like figure, erect and tall, his men clustering around
him. They kneeled in reverent silence as the Host
was raised aloft ; and, when the rite was over, the
priest turned and addressed them — ' You are a grain
of mustard seed, that shall rise and grow till its
branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but
your work is the work of God. His smile is on you,
and your children shall till the land.' "
The main point to be remembered in connection
with the early settlement of Montreal is, that it was
the result of religious enthusiasm. That is shown by
the name ViUe-Maric^ the original name of the city.
It was an attempt to found in America a veritable
FOUNDATION. 149
^' Kingdom of God," as understood by devout Roman
Catholics. The expedition was titted out in Finance
solely for that purpose, and the inception of the enter-
prise has many romantic particulars of •' voices and
revelations" and "providential occurrences" by
which the zeal of its founders was su2)ported and
stimulated. They had need for all their enthusiasm,
and opportunity for its exercise ag-ainst the powerful
Iroquois tribes, who determined to extinguish the
infant settlement in the blood of che settlers. The
character of Maisonneuve was a noble one. Duty was
the o'uiding star of his life. AVhen the governor of
Quebec sought to dissuade him from settling at the
"siege perilous" of Montreal, he replied: — "Mon-
sieur, your reasoning would be conclusive if I had
been sent to deliberate upon the selection of a suitable
site, but the Company having decided that I shall go
to Montreal it is a matter of honour, and I trust you
will not be displeased that I settle my colonj" there."
And again when further pressed : — " Gentlemen, if all
the trees of the Island of Montreal were changed into
Iroquois I am bound by honour and duty to go." A
stately and chivalrous tigure — this grand religious
knight of antique mould. Any city might be proud
of such a founder. But no monument records his
devotion, no square, or public place, commemorates his
name. We have Papineau Square, Chaboillez Square,
Phillip's Square, Dutt'erin Square, Dominion Square,
but no Place Maisonneuve. It would almost seem
that " devoir " was only an old French word.
The city of Montreal is built upon a series of ter-
races which mark the former levels of the river, or of
the ancient sea which washed the bases of the Lau-
rentian hills to the north. The geological formation
is Silurian, the surface rock being Trenton limestone.
In rear of the mountain the Trenton limestone comes
to the surface, and it is from these beds that the grey
stone is procured of which the city is chiefly built.
Along the margin of the river black shales of a higher
150 CITY OF MONTREAL.
formation, the "Utica, appear. The Island of Montreal
exhibits no less than six different formations in the
Lower Silurian. At St. Anne's, the western extrem-
ity, is the Potsdam sandstone. In that locality those
curious perforations may be seen supposed to be
worm burrows. Close to the Potsdam, near the rail-
way station, the Calciferous formation comes up in a
good locality for fossils. At the next station, Point
Claire, the Ch" 'y has a very extensive exposure ;
the stone for the V^ictoria Bridge was quarried there.
A short distance further east the Black River lime-
stone comes up, and at Montreal the Trenton lime-
stone and Utiea shales appear. The mountain which
rises up behind the city consists of trap rock, which
has forced its way through the limestone lying
against it.
Mount Poyal, from which the city derives its name,
rises 700 feet above the river level. From its sum-
mit the whole Silurian plain spreads out in a pano-
rama, broken only by the trap mountains, which sug-
gest former volcanic disturbance. These hills lie in
a line from ^N". W. to S. E., and mark a continuous
dislocation in the rocks. Looking southwards, upon
the left is Montarville; seven pretty lakes are con-
cealed in the recesses of the mountain. Next is
Belceil mountain with the ruins of a chapel upon the
summit. A depression in the midst of this mountain
is occupied by a lake of singular clearnet^s and depth.
Next, the Eougemont moimtain rises from the plain
almost concealing the Yamaska mountain behind it,
and to the right the conical shape of Mount Johnson
or Monnoir sharply breaks the level surface. Sixty
years ago this prairie between the St. Lawrence and
the Eichelieu was very productive wheat land, but
continual crops have run it out, and it now awaits
the steam plough, the high farming, and the capital,
which alone can draw out its capabilities.
At the time of the first arrival of the French, in
1535, a large Indian town existed on the site of the
OLD IIOCIIELAGA. 151
present city, probably near the English Cathedral.
The skeleton of an Indian, who liad been buried in a
sitting posture, was fbun<l recently near Manstield
street, together with various objects of Indian pot-
tery. Jacques Caj'tier, wlio was guided then by the
chief to the top of the mountain, desci-ibes the town as
being fortitied with palisades, and built in the foi-m of a
circle. It was surrounded by fields of grain which
gave evidence of the settled character of the popula-
tion and their comparative civilization. He learned
that the name of the town was Hochelaga. The
eastern ward of the present city, where Jacques
Cartier probably landed, still retains that name, and
it has also been retained as tlie name of the county.
Jacques Cartier made no settlement in Canada, and
no visit by Europeans to Hochelaga is recorded
until seventy years later, when Champlain made an
expedition up the St. Lawrence But the populous
town described by Jacques Cartier had disappeared
Two aged Indians alone were found to conduct him
to the summit of Mount Royal, and relate the story
of the ruin of their people. Manj^ traditions survive
of the fratricidal war which bi-oke out after Cartier's
departure. If we are to believe the historian of the
Wyandots — Peter Dooyentate Clarke — himself a
descendent of the tribe — the Senecas and Wyandots,
or Hurons, lived side by side at Hochelaga, in peace
and amity until, in an evil moment, a stern chief of
the Senecas refused to permit his son to marry a
Seneca maiden. The indignant damsel rejected all
suitors, and promised to marry that man only who
should kill the chief who had oft'ended her. A young
Huron fulfilled the condition and won the lady.
But the Senecas adopted the cause of their chief and
attacked the Hurons. At first they were unsuc-
cessful, but the other tribes of the Iroquois assisted
them, and the Hurons were driven westward, and
were eventually almost exterminated by the implac-
able Iroquois. This romance of Hochelaga has found
152 CITY OF MONTREAL.
no poet or novelist to embellish an<l innn<»i"tali/.o it.
Our dark-skinned Canadian Helen l)r(>iiii:lit " iinnuni-
berod woe.s " U2)on her people, hut until some Homer
arises to narrate th«' ])artieulars, we shall never know
what tragie fate hefell her. Some vestiges of 11 ion
even still survive, hut Champlain saw no traee of the
triple palisaded town elaborately deserihed hy his
pre<lecessor. He was struek with the advantageous
situation of ^Fontreal. and even made a (dearing at
Point-u-Callieres whieh he ealled Plaee IJoyale, but
did not earrv out any desii^n whieh he may have
formed of foundinii: ii settlement.
The earlv history of Ville Marie is full of romance.
Champlain sided with the Hurons in the bitter war
whieh was raging at the time of his ari'ival, and the
French for tifty years struggled with difficulty against
the enterprises of those implacal)le enemies. Mon-
treal, being nearer to the Iroquois cantons, chietlj'felt
their fury, and in 1660. the whole island up to the
palisades of the town was swept ])y Tn<lian war-
parties. A deed of heroism by which DoUard and
seventeen other Frenchmen devoted themselves to
death alone saved the town. In 1665 the Marquis de
Tracy arrived from France with the Carignan regi-
ment. He defeated and punished the Iroquois and
established forts at St. Ther^se, Sorel and Chambly,
to check their incursions. The two latter places still
retain the names of the captains of his regiment who
built the forts. Then Montreal rapi<lly grew into im-
portance, and became the centre of the fur trade with
the west, and of the expeditions to retaliate upon the
English colonies, to the south, the atrocities which
the Iroquois, the allies of the English, had inflicted
upon Canada. Fj-om Mon-real also started Joliet,
Hennepin and La Salle on their adventurovj career of
western exploration.
In 1722 Montreal was regularly fortified, with a
bastioned wall and ditch, after plans by de Lery. The
lane in rear of St. James street, now called Fortifica-
OLD FORTIFICATIONS. 153
tion Lane, marks the line of the old walls demolished
in 1808.
Upon Dalhousie Square stood the citadel. It had
been the site of one of the seignioi-ial windmills, and
was a hii^'h hill overlooking the towii. When Earl
Dalhousie was Govei-nor-General, the site was granted
to the city and tlie land level le<l.
The station of the Canadian Pacitic Railway stands
upon the site of the bari'acks occupied, until 1870, by
the English troops. They were called the Quebec
Gate Barracks, and there a portion of the old deLery
walls remained standing until 1881, when the ground
was entirely cleared to make room for the de2)0t.
Then disappeared the last vestige and visible sign in
Montreal of the French military power of former
years. In an angle of the wall to the north the
French Governors placed the Champ-de-Mars, still
used as a parade ground, much extended and sur-
rounded by trees in later times. The powder maga-
zine stood as a detached building in St. James street;
and the Recoil et Gate in Notre Dame street, very
near it, marked the western limits of the town.
Wolfe's victoi'y, on the Plains of Abraham, resulted
in the surrender of Quebec, but it was not until
September of the following year 1T60, that the
French power in Canada was tinally broken by the
surrender of Montreal. On the same day the army
of General Amherst from the English colonies, and of
General Murray from Quebec, arrived before the
walls. The city was not prepared for defence and de
Vaudreuil had no adequate force for resistance.
The long struggle was ovei*, and the white flag of
France went down before the fortune of the English
race. It ^-as a dear conquest for England, because
the colonists, freed from all apprehension, became
restive, and the English, proud of their victories, be-
came more aiTogant ; so it happened that only six-
teen years later British troops were, in their turn,
surrendered at Chambly and St. John. The British
154 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Governor escajjcd down the river to Que]>eo, and the
^lontrealers once more surrendered I heir eity, but
tills time to Montgomery, comniandini;* the army of
revolted eolonists. Durini^ the winter of 1770-7 the
city was oeeu])ied by the troops of the Continental
Confi;ress, and tiie astute and ])hiusible Fraidvlin prac-
tised his ]>ersuasive ])Owers in vain to induce the
Canadians to join the revolt. In the s])rini!: <^f n77
the advance of the British troops from (Quebec com-
pelled the invaders to evacuate (Canada, and the Bri-
tish fla«j; once more floated over the walls of Montreal.
Tl . history of our citv from thenceforth becomes
dull and uninterestini::. It is the ordinary history of
a mercantile town. Growing trade, extending build-
ings, material progress, in all directions. A slight
glow of romantic adventure still clung to it during
the contest for the fur trade between the North-West
and the Hudson's Bay Companies. The head-quarters
of the former were at Montreal, and here the fur-
kings of the Xorth-AVest lived and spent their profits
in generous hospitality. When the fleets of canoes
went out with supplies or returned with peltries, the
narrow streets of the old town were cro^vded with
adventui'ous voyageurs, and ])icturesque with savage
and semi-savage costumes. But all that passed away
with the fusion of the two companies, and Montreal
settled down to the humdrum life of ordinary trade.
Still the mingling of different creeds, languages and
races at Montreal adds even yet a charm of variety
to the city which none who have lived there ever for-
get.
With this ra])i(l sketch of old Montreal, w^e now
pass on to the Montreal of to-day. and a weary tourist
will naturally ask first for information about
HOTELS.
The Windsor Hotel, on Dominion Square, is one of
the finest hotels in America, whether for style of
HOTELS. 155
architecture, commodiousness, comfort or complete-
nesH. It is one of the cliicf of those pahitial hotels
peculiar to Amei'ica, in which, under one roof every
comfort and convenience of life can he found. The
main entj-ance is from the Square and oj)cns into the
grand rotunda where are situated the hotel office, tlio
waitiujLC-room, the tele^raj)h and ticket-office, tlio
news-stand, coat-rooms, t^c. Closely connected hy pas-
sages are the wash-i*ooms, the hilliard room, the bar,
the barher's shop, a haberdasher's shop and a chemist's
shop. The rotunda has a domed loof handsomely
frescoed, and is lit from the top by large sky-lights.
A handsome marble staircase leads to the grand
corridor 180 feet long by 30 wide, out of which opens
a suite of handsome drawing rooms. On the same
flat is the main dining-room, 112 feet long by 52 feet
w.de, mf*rble-floored, and beautifully frescoed. A
smaller dining-room, 60 feet by 40, opens out of this.
The bed-rooms are all supplied with hot and cold
water, and are roomy and well wai'med and venti-
lated. The hotel is handsomely and luxuriously
furnished thi'oughout, and its situation is healthy and
airy. ($4.00 per day.)
The St. Lawrence Hall, on St. James sti'cet, ranks next
to the AVindsor, and is the most centrally situated hotel
in the city. It is the next building west of the Post
Office and close to all the banks and business offices.
Until the Windsor w\as built, it w^as the most fashion-
able hotel. It has been enlarged and improved to
meet evej-y want of the travelling public. (S3. 00 to
$3.50 i^er day.)
The Richelieu Hotel, on St. Yincent street, and extend-
ing to Jacques Cartier Square, is a very large hotel,
frequented chiefly by the French portion of the popu-
lation. It is a good and well kept house. ($2.50 to
$3.50 per day.) Those who ])refer it may take a
room at $1.00 per day and get their meals at the
Bestaurant; d la cdrte^ or elsew^here.
156 CITY OF MONTREAL.
The Albion Hotel, on McGrill street, is a large and
comfortable hotel frequented by country merchants —
a good commercial hotel. (82.00 to 82.50 per day.)
The American House, on St. Joseph street — much re-
sorted to by dealers in horses and cattle — a comfort-
able hotel. (82.00 to 82.50 per day.)
The Canada Hotel, St. Gnbriel street, a French-Cana-
dian hot^d. (82.50 per day.) Eooms all furnished
for two guests.
The Jacques Cartier Hotel, Jacques Cartier Square —
a small but comfortable hotel, patronized by French-
Canadians. (81.50 to 82.00 per day.)
The New York House, Lagauchetiere street. (81.25
to 82 00 per day.)
Omnibuses attached to the chief hotels await the
arrival of all trains and steamers, and the visitor
would do well to take his seat at once in the omnibus
bearing the name of the hotel where he wishes to put
up. Checks for baggage may safely be entrusted to
the porter who bejirs the badge of the hotel he repre-
sents.
Cabs and carriages in great number await all
arrivals of trains or boats.
TARIFF OF CAB FARES.
One-Horse Vehit'*' \. — From any place to any other, (pro-
vided the time occu .< 1 does not exceed twenty minutes) for
one or two persons, zo cents ; three or four persons, 50 cents.
From any place to any other, (provided the time occupied
does not exceed half an hour) for one or two persons, 40
cents ; three or four persons, 60 cents. When the drive ex-
ceeds the time limited as aforesaid hour rates to be charged.
By the Hour. — For the first hour, one or two persons, 75
cents ; three or four persons, $1. For every subsequent
hour: one or two i^ersons, 60 cents; three or four persons,
75 cents.
PUBLIC CONVEYANCES. 157
Two-Horse Vehicles.— From any place to any other, (pro-
vided tiie time occupied does not exceed half an hour) one or
two persons, 65 cents ; three or four persons, 75 cents. When
the drive exceeds the time hmited as aforesaid, hour rates to
be charged.
By the Hour.— One or two persons, $1 ; three or four per-
sons, $1.25.
Fractions of hours to be charged at pro rata hour rates, but
no less than one-quarter of an hour shall be charged when
the time exceeds the hour.
Fifty per cent, to be added to the tariff rates for rides from
12 midnight to 4 a. m.
The tariff by the hour shall apply +o all rides extending
beyond the city limits when the engagement is made within
the city.
Baggage. — For each trunk or box carried in any vehicle,
10 cents ; but no charge shall be made for travelling bags,
valises, boxes or parcels, which passengers can carry by the
hand.
Carriages are very numerous in Monti cal. For ex-
cursions, or for a drive round the mountain, or a visit
to the cemetery a special bargain should be made.
The best plan is to order a carriage at the office of the
hotel, and thus prevent a wrangle. Strangers should
avoid drinking largely of water on their first arrival.
It is apt to cause diarrhoea when copiously drunk in
hot weather. The ubiquitous pitcher of iced-water has
invaded Canada from the South provoking incessant
thirst.
Horse Cars of the Montreal City Passenger Railway run
as follows :
From Mile End to Dorchester Avenue, by St. Lawrence,,
Craig, Bleury and St. Catherine streets West, every 8 minutes,
from 7 a. m. to 7 p. m., and every 16 minutes from 6.15 to
7 a. m. and 7 to 10 p. m. ; last car leaves Mile End Depot at
about 9 30, and Dorchester Avenue at about 10.15 p. m.
Between Hochelaga and A twater Avenue, St. Cunegonde,.
cars every 11 minutes, from 6.10 a. m. to 9.30 p. m., by way
of St. Mary, Notre-Dame and St. Joseph streets.
Papineau Sc^uare to the West end of St. Antoine street, every
15 minutes, from 7 a. m. to 10 p. m.
158 CITY OF MONTREAL.
St. Denis Street Line from Craig street to IVIount Royal
Avenue, from 7 a. m. to 9.30 p. m., every 15 minutes.
Omnibuses. — Leave Post Office for Point St. Charles every
20 minutes, from 6.30 a. m. to 9.30 p. m.
Fare on all lines 5 cents.
RESTAURANTS.
These abound in the central part of the city, espe-
cially in St. James Street and Notre Dame Street.
The chief are : —
Freeman's, No. 231 St. James Street ; Alexander's, 219 St.
James Street; Compain's, No. 116 St. Francois-Xavier Street ;
The Bodega, No- 366 Notre Dame Street ; Victor's, No. 145
St. James Street ; Walker's No. 372 Notre Dame Street. Be-
sides these, single meals can be had at the following hotels :
Windsor, $1.00 ; St. Lawrence Hall, 75c ; Richelieu, 75c ; Al-
bion, 50c ; American House, 50c ; Canada, 50c ; New York
House, 50c.
A stranger, having letters, would do well to obtain
an introduction at the St. James' Club, in Dorchester
Street, or at the Metropolitan Club on Beaver Hall,
MONEY.
English gold is a legal tender at the rate of 4.86|
dollars to the pound, but silver money is not a legal
tender, and passes under its proportionate value.
United States' money is taken at par when in gold or
paper, but silver coins are at a discount. There are
many brokei's' offices where money may be exchanged.
Weir's and Picken's, near the Post-office, are good
places, but the hotels all take foreign money at its
proper value. The money in use in Canada consists
of bank notes of S5 and upwards, and Grovernment
notes of $1 and upwards, all i-edeemable in gold on
demand. The latter are a legal tender. The Cana-
dian coinage is silver only, consisting of pieces of 5,
10, 20, 25 and 50 cents.
COMMERCE. 159
THE POST OFFICE
13 on St. James Street at the corner of St. Frangois
Xavier Street, aiji almost facing the Phice d' Amies.
It is a hirge handsome building of grey limestone with
mansard roof.
Mails for England close four times a week ; for the
United States twice daily. Canada is a member of
the Postal Union, and the postage to all countries in
the Union is 2 J pence stg. or 5 cents per half ounce.
For all parts of Canada and the United States the rate
is 3 cents. City or drop letters are one cent. Postal
<?ards at two cents are provided for England and the
Postal Union, and at one cent for Canada and the
United States. Transient Newspapers are one cent.
All postage must be prepaid. The regulations for
Book and Parcels Post and for other mailable matter
as well as the hours of departure can best be learned
on inquiring at the Hotel office, as they vary from
time to time.
COMMERCE OF MONTREAL.
The River St. Lawrence is 1,500 miles long and drains
an area of 330,000 square miles. From Montreal to
Quebec, a distance of IGO miles, its width varies from
one to two miles. From a short distance below Quebec
to the Gulf of St. Lawi-ence it varies from 10 to 35
miles in width. Half way between Montreal and
Quebec it widens out into Lake St. Peter, which is 20
miles lono- and 9 wide.
At Quebec the tide rises 14 feet, but it ceases to be
observed at the -ower end of Lake St. Peter. The
depth of the river is so great that the largest ocean
steamers may be found loading or discharging in Mon-
treal harbour. From Quebec to Montreal the depth,
excepting for a distance of 30 miles, mostly in Lake
St. Peter, is never less than 30 feet. The work of
deepening the channel on the flats of that Lake was
160 CITY OF MONTREAL.
commenced in 1851 by the Harbour Commissioners
of Monti-eal, and has been steadily continued so that
now a depth of 25 feet at lowest water has been
attained. Owing to these great efforts, the largest
ocean vessels are able to reach our port. In carrying
on these works 8.500,000 cubic yards had to be re-
moved. The ship channel so deepened is 300 feet
wide at its narrowest point. Work is being steadily
continued and will not cease until a depth of 27J feet
is attained.
The distance from Montreal to the Atlantic Ocean
is a little under 1,000 miles, or to be precise, it is 98G
miles from Montreal to the Straits of Belleisle. The
city is 250 miles above salt water, and it is 315 miles
nearer to Liverpool than is the City of Xew York.
One-third of the whole distance to Europe by way of
the St. Lawrence is in comparatively smooth w^ater.
Westwardly the distance from Montreal to Chicago by
the St. Lawrence system is 1,261 miles, or 158 miles
less than the distance from Xew York to the same
city, w^hile the canals of the St. Lawrence system
aggregate only 70 miles, against 350 miles of artificial
navigation bv the Erie Canal to Buifalo. From these
few facts the importance of Montreal as a centre of
commerce can be estimated.
The Harbour.— Xo visitor to Montreal should fail to
walk along the river front, and inspect the wharves
and quay. These \vere designed during the vigorous
administration of Lord Sydenham. A solid revetement
wall runs along the whole riverfront of the city, com-
mencing at the Lachine canal, and continuing to the
Current St. Mary; a distance of one and a half miles.
As the wall forms the outer edge of the river-street,
that street is open to view from the river for its
Avhole length. The wharves at which the ships dis-
charge are ten feet below the level, so that the pedes-
ti'ian standing upon the wall and leaning against the
protecting rail, may see at a glance the whole busi-
OCEAN STEAMSHIP LINES. 161
ness of the port si)read out below him. Close to the
canal are the basins for the Allan line of steamers
from Glaso;ow and Liveryujol ; then follow steamei-s
from the Maritime Provinces and different PJiiropean
])orts, then sailing ships, then the sheds of the Lon-
don line of steamers and the Dominion line from
Liverpool ; then follow the sj)lendid liver boats plying
between Quebec and Montreal ; then succeed a crowd of
smaller river steamers, wood barges, and, final Iv, sail-
ing ships and steamei's as far as Ilochelaga. Here
lie, at a distance of 900 miles from the ocean, vessels
from all the ports of the world, from England, v^ith
iron, dry goods, and general goods ; from France and
the Mediterranean with wines and groceries ; from
Germany, with glass and general goods ; from China,
with tea — alongside of vessels loading with return
cargoes of grain, cattle, lumber, mineral phosphates
and other productions of Canada. The Avharves are
not disfigured by unsightly warehouses, but the river
street is as clear as a Parisian quay.
The maritime importance of Montreal will perhaps
best be illustrated by an enumeration of the regular
lines of ocean steamships w^hich trade to the port,
they are : —
Allan Mail Line, weekly to Liverpool.
Allan Line, weekly to Glasgow.
Dominion Line, Aveekly to Liverpool.
Beaver Line, weekly to Liverpool. _
Donaldson Line, weekly to Glasgow.
Temperley Line, fortnightly to London.
Boss Line, fortnightly to London.
Great Western Line, fortnightly to Bristol.
Thomson Line, fortnightly to Newcastle-on-Tyne, via
London.
Hansa Line, fortnightly to Hamb'irg.
White Cross Line, fortnightly to Antwerp.
Quebec Steamship Line, fortnightly for ports on the Gulf
and Prince Edward Island.
Montreal and Acadian Line, fortnightly to St. John's, New-
foundland.
Black Diamond Line, to Charlottetown, Pictou and St.
John's, Nfld.
11
162 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Besides these, there are numerous steamers trading
to the poi't whieli do not belong to any reguhir line.
The fleet of river steamers plying to the ditterent
towns on the 81. Lawrence and its tributaries adds to
the busy appearance of the harbour.
The statistics of the business of the port for the
year 1883, are: —
Total value of exports $27,277,195
" value of imports 43,718,549
" customs duties collected 7,698,796
" tonnage 664,263
" sea going vessels 660
Of these last 464:=605,805 tons were steamships.
Only per cent, of the vessels arriving from sea
were sailing vessels, showing that Montreal has be-
come almost entirely a steamship port.
The quay or revetment wall extends down to the
Current St. Mary, but the wharves are continued
much further down the river as far as the Hudon Cot-
ton Factory. The total length of wharf accommoda-
tion is 4*57 miles, of which two -thirds is for ships
drawing 25 feet of water. The port possesses every
convenience for loading and despatching ships, such
as steam elevators for grain and appliances for ship-
ping cattle.
The following extract from the records of the Corn
Exchange gives the chief items of export during the
yeas 1883 : —
Wheat... 5,008,167 bushels.
Maize 4,530,731
Peas 1,666,334 "
Oats 155,431 "
Barley 142,354 ''
Rye 175,960 "
Flour 1,552,484 cwts.
Meal 185,676 "
Potash 35,140 "
Butter 159,663 firkins.
Cheese 991,940 boxes.
Bacon 73,048 "
LACHINE CANAL. 1G3
Lard 52,423 tierces.
Meats 11,923 barrels.
Oxen 50,345 animals.
Sheep 102,347
Apatite 17,160 tons.
Lumber 16,964,478 feet.
Deals 23,094 standards.
In order to give greater despatch the harbour is
lighted by the electric light under the Brush system,
so that ships are loaded or discharged at night as well
as during the day.
On a market day, that portion of the harbour
allotted to river craft assumes a very livel}^ appear-
ance. Much of this business is in the hands of the
Eichelieu and Ontario JS'avigation Company, but there
are many independent boats. That Company has a
line of magniiicent steamers to Quebec, leaving Mon-
treal every evening uj:on the arrival of the daily
steamer from the Lake Ontario ports. It has a direct
boat for Three Eivers twice a week, a daily boat for
Terrebonne, and a boat twice a week for Cornwall.
There is also a service on the Eichelieu twice a week
and upon the Yamaska. These rivei* boats, with the
ferry steamers, and steam tugs, fully occupy the
wharves near the Bonsecours market.
Lachine Canal.— The St. Lawrence, upon whose
abundant watei-s this fleet rests, becomes, a few milos
west of the city, completely unnavigable, owing to
the Lachine rapids or Sault St. Louis. The Lachine
Canal, which debouches into the harbour of Montreal,
is the first of a series of magnificent works by which
the trade of the west is brought to our doors. It is
eight and three quarter miles long, and overcomes a
total rise of 45 feet, its width varies from 163 to 208
feet and it has ^ve locks, 2*70 feet long and 45 feet
wide. Yessels drawing 12 feet can pass through it.
In the spacious basins of the Lachine Canal, assemble
the steamers, schooners, barges and propellers which
164 CITY OF MONTREAL.
cany on the ti'tiffic with the upper river and hikes.
Wliile the wharves of tlie harbour proper are shore
wharves and ])iers, the whai'ves of the Canal are all
enclosed basins or docks. These last afford a total
wharf fronta<i:e of 3:30 miles, of which one third of a
mile is tor eighteen feet of water and the ]"emainder
for twelve ieet, in addition to the wharfage of the
harbour as previously given. The total number of
inland vessels which arrived in 1883 was 5477, and the
total inland tonnage was 7t)4,721. The inland tonnage
has decreased of late yeai-s as the railway system has
been extending.
The waters of Lake Champlain drain into the St,
Lawrence by the Eichelieu. but there ai-e rapids on the
latter river which are overcome by a canal. Lumber
is ex])orted to, and coal imported from the United
States by that route. The extent of the water-
ways 0]>ened up by means of the western canals, may
be seen by a glance at the map. They reach through
all the great lakes — to Duluth and Fort William on
Lake Superior, Chicago and Milwaukee on Lake
Michigan, Collingwood and Goderich on Lake Huron,
Euftalo and Cleveland on Lake Erie, Hamilton,
Toronto, Kingston and Oswego on Lake Ontario.
Then the Ottawa river GOO miles long tlows into the
St. Lawrence at Montreal and brings the trade of all
its vast valley. The rafts of timber from the Ottawa
and its tributaries for shipment at Quebec, are not
seen at Montreal. They always pass down behind
the island bv the Eiviere-des-Prairies, which falls into
the St. Lawrence below the cit3\ The rapids of the
Sault-au-Recollet on that branch of the Ottawa are
not so formidable as the Lachine Rapids or Sault St.
Louis.
Leaving the Lachine Canal for the upper waters are
many independent steamers, besides steam tugs for
the barges and returnino- lake craft. A weekly line
of steamers runs to Duluth at the head of Lake
Superior. Another weekly line runs to Chicago at
RAILWAYS. 165
the head of Lake Michigan. A <huly line leaves for
Hamilton at the western end of Lake Ontario, and
another dail>' line for Ottawa on the Ottawa river.
All these call at the intermediate ports. The grain
exported from Montreal is for the most part tran-
shipped into barges by steam elevators at Kingston.
It arrives there from Ohieago, Milwaukee, Toledo,
Detroit, and other westei*n ports in lake craft —
usually schooners. Some of it comes bv rail fi-om
Goderich, Collingwood or Midland Cit}', on Lake
Huron, and this route is gaining u])on the former:
but, in any case, at Kingston the grain is loaded into
cana) barges, each carrying 18,000 to C0,000 bushels,
which are towed down the canals by propellers and
put alongside the ocean ships at Montreal. There is
an economy in transhipment, because each kind of
craft is constructed to comply with all the varied
conditions of the long inland route. Besides in the
summer months, the handling of the grain helj^s to
keep it in good condition.
Tourists who wish to go westward by the boats of
the Eichelieu and Ontario Company, can avoid the
delay of the canals by taking the Grand Trunk Eail-
way to Prescott or Brockville. They can leave six
hours later and catch the steamboats at those ports,
b}' this means passing through the Thousand Islands
and Lake Ontario, and avoiding the heat aud dust of
the railway cars. It does not answer, however to take
the boats when close connections have to be made and
time is limited.
THE RAILWAYS OF MONTREAL.
It is not sufficient in these days that a city should
be situated at the intersection of great water-ways, it
is also necessary that it should be the centre of con-
verging railways. During the past few years Mont-
real has made great advances in this respect, and in
a very short time the city w^ill possess the same rela-
1()G CITY OF MONTREAL.
live position of importance in winter by railway, as
it does in summer by steamships.
The Grand Trunk Railway is of first importance. By
it Montreal is connected with the westei-n provinces,
and wMth Chicago and the Western States. On the
south it connects at Rouse's Point with the railways
for New York city, for Ogdensburg and the whole
system of roads in western and southern New York.
At St. Johns it connects with the roads to Boston and
New Eni^hmd. On the east it is3aches the seaboard at
Portland, and at Quebec it connects with the Inter-
colonial Eailway, and thus with the Maritime Pro-
vinces. By the North Shore Eailway it has a more
direct connection with Quebec. It passes through
Sherbrooke, the chief city of the Eastern Town-
ships. It is in realit}^, as well as in name, the Grand
Tnink Raihvay of Canada, for with it is now amalga-
mated the Great Western Eailway to Detroit, and its
aggregate length is 4,524 miles. At Montreal the
workshops and the head offices are located, and here the
railway crosses the river by a bridge which is one of
the great engineering works of the world. A hand-
some and commodious building has been erected for
the chief offices of this company at Point St. Charles.
The far reaching lines of this great system are shown
upon the map at p. 28.
The Central Vermont Railway.— This is a very favour-
ite route, either to New York or Boston. It crosses
the Eichelieu Eiver at St. Johns, and runs down on
the eastern side of Lake Champlain to Troy, where
it connects with the Hudson Eiver Eailway. For
Boston it connects at White Eiver Junction with the
New England roads. It is now controlled by the
Grand Trunk Eailway.
The South Eastern Railway is another most impor-
tant road. By this Montreal is connected with the
VICTORIA BRIDGE. 16T
whole system of New England roads, with the sea-
board at Boston, and with many beautiful routes
throuich the White Mountains — the Switzerland of
North America. It now Ibrms part of the Canadian
Pacific System.
The Canadian Pacific Railway.— This railway is fully
noticed at page 29. The station is at Dalhousie Square.
From M'mtreal the whole valley of the Ottawa is now
accessible, and an alternative route to Toronto, via
Ottawa has been opened. North of the city it has
branches to St. Jerome, St. Lin, and St. Eustache. On
the south of the city a branch is under construction
to Sherbrooke. A new bridge is designed in connection
with this system to cross the St. Lawrence four miles
above the city.
Besides these greater systems of railway there are
several minor roads from Montreal, such as that to
Sorel on the Richelieu, to Huntingdon at the south-
west corner of the Province, and to Lachine.
All the railways are connected with the shipping by
a line of rails upon the wharves the whole length of
the city, which is worked by the Grand Trunk Rail-
way under the supervision of the Harbour Commis-
sioners for the convenience of all the companies and
in the interests of the trade of the port. In the rear of
the mountain the Jacques Cartier railway connects
the eastern and western roads.
The Victoria Bridge.— This wonderful triumph of
engineering skill was completed in 1859, from the
designs of Robert Stephenson ana A. M. Ross, ably
carried out by the energy of James Hodges. The
bold idea of a bridge to span the St. Lawrence did not
originate with them, as, in fact, the Honourable John
Young in 1847, and Mr. T. C. Keefer in 1851, had, long
before the English engineers came out, demonstrated
its feasibility and pointed out the location which was
afterwards, with slight modifications, adopted. The
168 CITY OF MONTREAL.
engineers skilfully availed themselves of a ledo-e of
rock, which crosses the river fi'oni Point St. Charles
to St. Lambert's, upon which to found their superstruc-
ture.
The bi"id<>-e is 9,184 feet in lengtli. Thei-e are 25
tul)es, which are supported by 24 piers, and the two
terminal abutments, or, to be more precise, there in a
centre tube and, on either side, six pairs of double
tubes. The centre tul>e is detached at both ends ; rnd
the double tubes are l)olted together and to the piers
at their inner junction, and free at their outer ends.
These free ends rest upon rollers, and, as openings are
left between each set of double tubes, the expansion
and conti'action caused by the extremes of Canadian
climate are amply provided for. The tubes are of
wrought boiler plate iron, built up with most careful
calculation of varying thickness of plate, and stitt'ened
with angle-iron. They ai-e of the uniform l)readth of
16 feet, and are arrano-ed for a sino'le track within.
Their height varies from 18 feet 6 in. at the tei-minal
tubes to 22 feet for the centre tube. The centre tube
is 60 feet above the summer level of the river. Besides
the openings for expansion, windows are placed in the
tubes to att'ord light. All the s])ans are uniformly of
242 feet excepting the centre, which is 330 fe i.
The piers are built of limestone of the same forma-
tion, the Chaz}', but taken from two localities, one at
Pointe Claire, on the Island of Montreal, and the other
at Isle Lamotte, in Lake Champlain.
The dimensions of the piers at the summit are 33
feet in the line of the river by 16 feet in the line of
the bridge. They descend to a point 30 feet above
summer level, very gradually increasing in size. At
this point the masonry is extended horizontally 10 feet
on the up-stream side, from whence it descends, at an
angle of 45 degrees, to a point 6 feet below summer
level, and thence perpendicularly to the bed of the
river. The main increase in the size of the piers is
thus upon the up-stream side ; the other sides, however,
VICTORIA BRIDGE. 169
increase slightly as they descend. The current runs
at the bridge at the rate of seven miles an hour, and
the pressure of the ice when piling and shoving in
the spring and fall is enormous. The horizontal gain
of 10 feet in the up-stream dimension of the piers
prevents the ice from reaching the shaft, and the
sharp edges to which the piers are brought upon that
side form saddles upon which the ice cannot rest, but
must break asunder or glide aside. The dimensions
of the piers at their foundation are 92 feet b}' 22J feet.
The abutments are 242 feet by 34 feet at the top and
290 feet by 92 feet at the foundation. The entrance
is between high parapets of massive masonry, hewn
in Egyptian style. Over the entrance, cut into the
lintel is the inscription : —
Erected a.d. mdccclix.
ROBERT STEPHENSON AND ALEXANDER M. ROSS,
Engineers*
Over the lintel, just in front of the first tube, is in-
scribed: —
Built by James Hodges
FOR SIR SAMUEL MORTON PETO, BART.
THOMAS BRASSEY AND EDWARD LADD BETTS
Contractors.
The iron for the superstructure was all prepared
at Birkenhead and sent out, each piece so marked as
to go readily into its place. The first stone was laid
on Jul}' 20th, 1854, and the first passenger train
crossed December 19th, 1859.
The following data, from Mr. Legge's excellent
little book about the bridge, are given for the benefit
of visitors who may be fond of figures : —
Cubic feet of masonry, 3,000,000 feet ; tons of iron
in tubes, 8,250 ; number of rivets, 2,500,000 ; paint-
ing on tubes, 30 acres, four coats, equal to 120 acres ;
force employed, 3,040 men, 142 horses, 4 locomotives.
Total cost 6,300,000 dollars.
170 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Strangers desiring to visit the bridge will require
to obtain a pass fi-om the Grand Trunk Railway office
at Point St. Charles.
Manufactures of Montreal. — Montreal is not only
a centre of commerce, but the most important manu-
facturing city in the Dominion. The manufacture of
boots and shoes employs about 3,000 hands, and the
product of the numerous factories is enormous. The
largest sugar refineries in Canada are at Montreal.
The largest cotton mill in the country is that of the
Hudon Company, at Hochelaga. There are two silk
factories, a large rubber factory, many large clothing
factories employing in the aggregate 2,500 hands;
factories of cards, boxes, paints, soaps, cements, drugs.
On the canal are saw-mills, sash factories, rolling
mills, nail works, engine and machine works. There
are five establishments for making sewing machines.
The edge tools — axes, augers, &c., of Montreal make
are celebrated for excellence. At the machine shops
of the Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Railway
everything connected with railway machinery is
manufactured. There are carpet factories, rope
factories, large binderies, large printing offices. Over
2,500 hands are employed in the tobacco factories ;
over 300 in the breweries. To give an account of the
various manufacturing industries in the city would
require more sj^ace than can be afforded in a guide
book.
WVTER WORKS.
The water supply of the city is taken from the
St. Lawrence, about one mile above the head of the
Lachine rapids, at a point 37 feet above the summer
level of the harbour of Montreal. One branch of
the aqueduct starts at that point, and another branch
starts from a point 3,000 feet above. Both unite and
form a canal, 26,200 feet long, to the Wheel House at
the west end of the city where there is a large settling
PARKS AND SQUARES. ITl
poDcl. The Wheel House is a substantial ston^ bulld-
iDg, containing water wheels and steam engines, by
which the water is pumped either directly into the
city mains, or into the large reservoir. The water
from the wheels after it has done its work of pumping
is carried away into the river by a tail-race 3,500 feet
long. There are two reservoirs ; the larger is at the
head of MacTavish sti-eet on the side of the mountain,
204 feet above the level of the river. It is 810 feet
long, 377 feet wide, and 24 feet deep. It is dug out
of the solid rock, and contains 36J millions of gallons.
Fi'om it the water is pumped by a steam engine to
the small reservoir, 200 feet long by 80 feet wide,
situated 218 feet further up on the mountain side. This
has a capacity of two millions of gallons, and supplies
all the city above the level of Sherbrooke Street. All
the work has been constructed in the most substantial
manner, and is worth the inspection of those interested
in engineering matters. It cost the city six million
dollars, which amoimt was raised by bonds secured
by the water-rates. The average daily consumption
of water in 1883 was 10,552,174 gallons.
PARKS AND SQUARES.
Mount Royal Park.— Kind friends from the upper
provinces sometimes ask, in the conclusive manner
generated by the free air of the west, " What would
your town be without the mountain ? " To whid
the Montrealer is constrained meekly to reply, *' Not
very much, for if the mountain were levelled, our city
would look as dull as any of the flat western towns."
But then Montreaiers have no intention of flattening
out their mountain, for although they are reminded
by strangers from the east that it is a very small
mountain — nothing but a hill in fact — they are proud
of it such as it is, and do not wish it to be higher.
They feel that it is a great ornament to their city,
and it answers their purpose much better than Mont
172 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Elane or Mount AVashi no-ton would, because, 1)eing
the heiii'ht it is, thev have been enabled to turn it
into a park, which is their delight, and will be that
of their children.
The Mountain Park covers 430 acres. It was
acquired by the city in 1874. It is under the control
of three commissioners, members of the City Council,
who have secured the professional assistance of Mr.
Frederick Law Olmstead, of New York, a gentleman
of great artistic taste and wide experience in land-
scape gardening. Under his advice the park has, for
the most ])art, been laid out, as far as it has been laid
out at all. In reality veiy little has been done
excepting the construction of roads, for the work of
laying out such a park as this is not one which can
be huri'ied. Indeed, any '" laying out" in the strict
sense of the word is very earnestly to be deprecated,
for the mountain already possesses so many natural
advantages that it is far easier to spoil it than to im-
prove it by a lavish expenditure of money. In an
admirable little book written by Mr. Olmstead upon
the subject of the artistic development of this pro-
perty, he shows that it is only by following in the
lines which nature has already laid down, and by
bringing these half hidden, but. characteristic beauties
fully to light by the resources of art, that the most
can be made of the wonderful possibilities of the
place.
In preparing his plans, Mr. Olmstead has adopted
names expressive of the characters of different parts
of the park. He calls the highest parts of the moun-
tain where the soil is thin and rocky, and the aspect
is arctic, the XJpperfell. Lower, on the southern spur,
near the spot known to natives as '' the Pines," is
what he calls the Brackenfell, from the abundance of
ferns found there. Opposite the Brackenfell, to the
west, lies an expanse of rolling, grassy, park-like
turf, this he calls the Glades. The steep declivities
around which winds the ascending road he calls the
MOUNT ROYAL PARK. 173
Cliffs. The forest land through which this road passes
is the Underl'ell. The bare land towards the north, near
the u])per reservoir, he calls Cragsfoot. At the north
end of the mountain iss Piedmont, and the level plain
which stretches out towaitls St. Jean Baptiste village,
known vulgarly as Fletcher's Field, he designates
Cote Placide. Following out the indications expresssd
by these happily-chosen names, we may grasp the
whole idea of the artist in designing the plan, and
understand what he means by following in the lines
which nature has traced. The vistas of the Glades
must not be obscured, nor the Fells deforested, nor
the wildness of the Crags moderated, nor the breezy
U2:)lands of Piedmont obstructed, nor the grassy ex-
panse of Cote Placide cut up and disfigured, but
whatever is done must be suboi'dinate to the genius
of the place. The approaches to the park are from
Bleury and Peel streets. Description of scenery is
more the province of the poet than the writer of
guide books. Those who visit it will see for them-
selves, and those who do not can obtain no adequate
idea from a verbal description.
The views over the surrounding country are ex-
ceedingly fine. On the south is the level prairie
dotted with villages, from Laprarie, in the distant
bay on the right, to Yarennes. The mountains rising
abruptly from the plain are, commencing from the
west, Monnoir, or Mount Johnson, Shetford, Rouge-
mont with the Yamaska Mountain behind it, Belceil
and Moutarville. In the remote distances are the
Adirondacks in New York, and the Green Mountains
in Vermont. From the east end the spectator looks
down the valley of the St. Lawrence, and may see to
the left the couj'se of Riviere-des-Prairies to its junc-
tion below the island ; far off on the left ai*e the
Laurentian Hills. But thoroughly to enjoy the
beauties of the Mountain Park the tourist should
follow the roads across the Glades w^estwards and
cross the Protestant Cemeterv to the Belvedere con-
174 CITY OF MONTREAL.
spicuous on the western summit. From that point
the lower valley of the Ottawa opens out. The Lake
of Two Mountains, Lake St. Louis, the two northern
mouths of the Ottawa, and the fertile island of Mont-
real are spread out as upon a map, while on the one
hand the Protestant Cemetery, and on the other the
Catholic Cemetery glisten with monuments shining
through the foliage.
Omnibuses leave the post office for the Mountain
Park at short intervals in tine weather. Refresh-
ments can be had during the season at the restaurant
on the summit, near Peel Street steps. Pedestrians
can reach the top of the mountain by steps above
Peel Street or above University Street. There are
also many paths of easy grade.
St. Helen's Island.— This island was a few years ago
opened to the public for a park. It commands an
excellent view of the cit3\ and being beautifully
wooded, is a pleasant place for a ramble. Access is
obtained by the steamer Filgate, which plies regularly
to it from the wharf opposite the Bonsecours market,
Eefreshments can be had on the island, and swings
and other amusements are provided for children.
There is a swimming bath at the lower end. The
island is named after Helen Boulle, the wife of
Champlain. She was the first European lady who
visited Canada. It belonged at one time to the Barons
of Longueuil, but was sold to the British G-overnment,
who used it for many years as a depot for military
stores and a station for troops. The fort and barracks
still remain.
Viger Square, in St. Denis street, has been very
prettily laid out with gardens and conservatory for
the accommodation of the eastern part of the city.
The Champ-de-Mars, upon Craig Street, in rear of
the Court House, is a fine exercise ground for troops,
PUBLIC SQUARES. 1^5
240 yards long by 120 wide. It is siirroimded by a
line of Lombardy poplars. It belonged to the Imperial
Government, and in former years, when British troops
were stationed in Canada they were paraded here, and
the place was a favourite resort of strangers. Then
it was kept trim and in good order. Now it seems
to be a no-man's land. It is really owned by the
Dominion Government, which spends money very
reluctantly at Montreal, except to increase its facili-
ties for collecting taxes.
Jacques Cartier Square, near the City Hall and
Court-house, has a fine outlook upon the river. This
square is ornamented by two Russian guns, trophies
from Sebastopol, and presented to the city by the
Imperial Government. A column surmounted by a
statue of Lord [N'elson is placed at the head of the
square. It was erected in 1808, by the merchants of
Montreal, shortly after the death of the Admiral at
Trafalgar.
Victoria Square, at the western end of St. James'
street, is upon the site of the old hay-market. Upon
it is a colossal statue of the Queen in bronze, by
Marshall Wood, an English artist.
Dominion Square is upon the rising ground more to
the west. It is the finest square in Montreal as to site.
The Windsor Hotel, the new Cathedral of St. Peter,
St. George's Church and Eectory, and many other
churches close to it give it importance architecturally.
It also commands a fine view of the mountain. During
the winter carnivals the ice-palaces were erected
here.
Place d'Armes, which for stately buildings is worthy
of attention. The Church of Notre Dame forms one
side, and the other three sides are occupied by fine
buildings. The Bank of Montreal is conspicuous with
176 CITY OF MONTREAL.
its Grecian frcmt. Next Is the Cauada Piicific Railway
office. Uj)(»n the eastern side, with ornamental front
and mansai'd roof, is the Jacques Cartier Bank. The
Ontario Bank is o})posite. At the corner, in Ohio
stone, is a building now occuj)ied as the Eoyal Insur-
ance Office. The Seminary of St. Sul])ice, adjoining
the Church, with its mixture of architecture, half of
the pj'esent day and half the Xurman PVench style of
two centuries ago, is a lit emblem of old Montreal,
now fast changing into a new city.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
The Court House, situated in Notre Dame street,
between the Champ de Mars and Jacques Cartier
Square, is a handsome building of grey Montreal
limestone, in the Grecian style, 300 feet loni^, 125 feet
wide, and 76 feet high. All the Courts have their
sittings here, and offices ai'e provided foi* all the
departments of the administration of justice. The
buildirtg is divided by iron sliding doors into fire-
proof compartments. The Advocates' Library, which
occupies a portion of it, is very complete in the subject
of old French civil law.
Bonsecours Market., on St. Paul street near Jacques
Cartier Square, is a very large and substantial build-
ing, which the tourist who wishes to see the Lower
Canadian peasantry would do well to visit on a Tues-
day or Friday. Under this one roof, and from the
market carts and booths around, every sort of eatable
can be purchased, from maple sugar to mutton and
lish. Vegetables of all sorts testify to the fruitfulness
of the surrounding country. All sorts of cheap
clothing, baskets, little shrines, images and wooden
shoes, are displayed to tempt the rustic purse, and
restaurants of primitive style to tempt the rustic
stomach. A poor man of simple taste finds here
everything lie may require for horse or person. There
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 177
arc six otlier maikets in the city, but tliis i ; the one Lest
worth a visit. The lengtli of tliis buildiiiii; is nearly
500 feetj and its a])pearance when crowded on a market
day is very lively.
The Custom House is a handsome ti'ianic^ilar building
with a tower, situated on the river-tront, on a lot of
land formerly called Pointe-a-Callieres, because, in old
French days, when the little stream, now covered in,
was visible, it se])arated this point from the city, and
Monsieur de Callieres' house was built there, outside
of the walls, which tlien followed the line of the north
side of the pi'csent street. As pointed out at p. 148
this is the spot wliere Champlain made the tirst clear-
ing and Maisonneuve assisted at the first Mass.
The Examining Warehouse is further westward on
the river-front, near the entrance to the Lachine
Canal. It is a very commodious stone buildirg, with
every appliance for storing and handling goods.
The City Hall.— This is a very imposing building
close to the Court House. It is 485 feet in length,
and is built in an adaptation of modern French style,
with lofty mansard roofs and central pavilion. All
the municipal offices are in this building including
the water-works and fire-alarm offices. The Recor-
der's Court and Police office are in the basement. The
city is governed by a Mayor, elected annually, and
thirty aldermen. Three aldermen, one of w^hom re-
tires every year, are elected by each of the ten wards
of the city.
The Harbour Commissioners' Building.— Tliis commis-
sion consists of membeis nominated partly by the
Montreal Board of Trade, the Corn Exchange and the
City Council, and partly by the Dominion Govern-
ment. Its duties are to watch over tlie harbour, to
keej) the wharves and quays ^" ')od repair, to extend
12
178 CITY OF MONTREAL.
them wlion required, to allot pliiees to incoming ves-
sels, and i:enerallv t(; supervise all matters connected
•
with the commerce of the city other than the collec-
tion of eustom duties. The Board has also caro of the
channel of the river and supervision of the pilots as
far as (^Uiebec. Under its direction all the o])era-
tions of drerlLiinii* and removing; shoals have heen
carried <>n for a lonu* series of years, and to itn
enliiihtened views of the destiny and ca])al)ilities of
the city aie due the present commodiousness and
efHciency of the ])ort. The j)lant engaged in this
work consiNts of eight esteam dredges, two stone-lift-
ing^ harges, and eight tug-boats.
The commission occupies a large cut-stone building
adjoining tlie Examining Warehouse. In the base-
ment of the building the engines for the electric lamps
which light the harbour are placed.
The Inland Revenue Office is a building on Custom
House Square, in old times the market place of the
town. The present building was erected in 1836 for
a Custom House.
The Board of Arts and Manufactures is a commission
nominated b}' the Government of the Province of
Quebec tor holding industrial exhibitions, carr^'ingon
schools of technical art, and generally watching over
the industrial interests of the province. It occupies
a large building at the east end of the Champ-de-
Mars. A com])lete set of the British Patent Oftice
publications may be consulted in the library of this
Commission. The Exhibition buildings and grounds
are at the Mile End.
The Board of Agriculture is constituted similarly to
the preceding, and has care of all public interests
relating to agriculture. It holds exhibitions annually
in conjunction with the former Board. Its offices are
in the same building as the above.
CHURCHES. 170
THE CHURCHES OF MONTREAL.
From what has boon said ooncornini? tho early
settlemont of Montreal, a stranger will he prepared
to find a lar^'o number of churohes. Tourists are
always struck with this peculiarity, and Mark Twain,
in a speech at a public dinner at the Windsor Hotel,
said that he " never was in a city before where
one could not throw a brick-bat without broakin^r a
church window." The action and reaction constantly
going on in a community containing an unusual num-
ber of earnest men of all conceivable shades of eccle-
siastical opinion naturally excites a corresponding
amount of zeal which has crystalizod into stone and
mortar. There is, however, a vast amount of tolerant
feeling in religious matters which quietly tides over
disputes when they threaten to bo dangerous, and de-
monstrates, alike in Protestant and Catholic, the false-
ness of Rousseau's maxim that " it is impossible to
live at peace with people whom one believes to be
eternally lost." In the old times, just after the con-
quest, the Protestants used one of the Roman churches
for worship after tho morning Mass. For twenty
years after 1766 the Church of England people occu-
j^ied the Church of the Recollets every Sunday after-
noon. The Presbyterians used the same church before
1792, and when the congregation moved to their first
church in St. Gabriel street they presented to the
priests of the Rocollet Church a gift of candles for
the high altar and of wine for the Mass, as a token of
good-will and thanks for the gratuitous use of the
church. These days have passed away, and every
congregation now has its own church. Many of the
buildings are very handsome. Commencing with the
Roman communion there are the
Cathedral of St. Peter.— This building, wdiich is now
in course of construction, occupies one of the finest
sites in the city, at the corner of Dominion Square and
180 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Dorchester Street. It is designed to reproduce, on a
Binjiller scale, all those features of St. Peter's at Rome
which ai'e suited to the climate. It will have a similar
fa(;a(le, in classic style of architecture, and be sur-
mounted by a similar dome. The ground ])lan is
cruciform, like its prototvjX', and the arms of the cross
ai"e rounded botli at the tribune and at the ends of the
transept. It is to have a grand portico surmounted
by statues, and smaller domes are to light the side
chapels and tribune. The roof, however, will be slo-
ping in order to throw off the snow. With this alteration
the church will be a re})roduction of the grand Basilica.
The dimensions ai-e as follows : — Length of main
building 300 feet, portico 30 teet, total length 330 feet,
breadth at transej)t 225 feet, height from pavement
to ridge of roof 80 feet, height of dome with lantern,
ball and cross 250 feet, diameter of dome upon the
inside TO feet, width of nave 40 feet. These dimen-
sions are as near as possible one half of the great
Eoman church, and still the building will surpass all
other churches in Canada as to size. The exterior is
plain, but the intention is to make the interior as
magnificent as possible, after the manner of I alian
churches. The present humble cathedral in brick will
no doubt be swept away on the completion of this.
The large building in the rear, facing towards the
river, is the Bishop's palace. The whole design origin-
ated with Monsigneur Bourget the former Bishop,
now Archbishop in partitus, after his church and
palace in St. Denis street had been destroyed in the
great f5re of 1852. Like its great prototype it was
commenced before the money to finish it was all in
hand, and the w^ork is stopped awaiting further con-
tributions, which will no doubt come in due time.
The Parish Church of Notre Dame, erroneously called
by mari}^ the Cathedral, stands upon the Place d' Amies.
It is built of cut limestone, in the Gothic style, and is
mtich admired for its plain and simple stateliness. The
CHURCHES. 181
length of the church is 255 feet, and its ])rea(lth is 134
feet. It will easily accommodate 10,0i)(l j^ersons, but
when crowded as it sometimes is, it actually has con-
tained 15,000 people. The two principal towers are
227 feet high, and at^ord from their summit a broad
panorama of the country around. The interior has
been recently decoraterl in a somewhat florid manner.
The carved woodwork of the choir is especially tine.
It represents under the various biblical types the
sacritice of Jesus Christ. At high Mass, when crowded
w^ith worshippers and wiien the choir is filled with
robed ecclesiastics, officiating at the stately ceremonies
of the Roman church, the effect is very imposing. The
south-west tower is opened in summer; an elevator is
provided and visitors may ascend to the top on pay-
ment of twenty-five cents. There are ten bells in the
towers, making a chime upon which, on great occa-
sions, tunes are played. Besides these there is a very
large one ''Le Gros Bourdon;" called Jean Baptiste,
weighing 20,400 lbs., the largest bell in America.
The two largest of the other bells are christened
Maria- Victoria and Edward- Albert-Louis. They weigh
respectively (30-11 and 3633 pounds. As for the view
from the summit, Mr. W. D. Howells thus describes it:
" So far as the eye reaches it dwells only upon what is mag-
nificent. All the features of that landscape are grand. Below
you spreads the city, which has leas that is merely mean in
it than any other city of our continent, and which is every-
where ennobled by stately civic edifices, adorned with taste-
ful churches, and skirted by fuU-foliaged avenues of mansions
and villas. Behind it rises the beautiful mountain, green
with woods and gardens to its crest, and flanked on the east
by an endless fertile plain, and on the west by another ex-
panse, through which the Ottaw a rushes, turbid and dark, to
its confluence with the St. Lawrence, then those two mighty
streams commingled flow past the city, lighting up the vast
champaign country to the south, while upon the utmost
southern verge, as on the northern, rise the cloudy summits
of far-oflf mountaine."
182 CITY OF MONTREAL.
This is gratifying, coming from the author of such
books of'ti'avel as '-Venetian Life" and ''Italian
Journeys." Mr. Howells is an enthusiast upon Mont-
real; he continues:
" As our travellers gazed upon all this grandeur their
hearts were humbled to the tacit admission that the colonial
metropolis was not only worthy of its seat, but had traits of
a solid prosperity not excelled by any of the abounding and
boastful cities of the Republic. Long before they quitted
Montreal they had rallied from this weakness, but they
delighted still to honour her superb beauty.
The present church occupies almost the same site as
one built in 1672 ; it was a long, low structure with a
high pitched roof and stood out across Notre Dame
street. It was pulled down in 1824 to make room for
the present building, which is one of the largest
churches on the continent. The architect was James
O'Donnell. He was born a Protestant, but during
the erection of the church became a Eoman Catholic
and is buried in the cr}^t.
Notre Dame de Bonsecours— Sister Mari^uerite Bour-
geois founded this church in 1673. It was built for the
reception of a miraculous statue of the Virgin, which
was entrusted to her by the Baron de Fancamp, a
priest, and one of the original proprietors of the island.
Sister Bourgeois' church was burned in 1754, and in
1771 the present church was erected. It is a quaint
old church, in a style scarcely met with out of IN'or-
mandy, and should be visited in connection with the
Bonsecoui's market, which stands close to it. The
internal decorations were formerly in the old Parish
Church of Notre Dame. Shops are built up against it
after the manner common in old European cities.
Yery nearly was it swept away to make room for a
railway station, but some protestants, actuated by a
love of the picturesque and regard for the memory of
the good sister, made such a noise that the Bishop
interfered to j)revent the sale.
ciiuRcnEs. 183
St. Patrick's Church, in Lai^auchetiere street, is well
worth a visit. It is beautifullv tiiiished and decorated
in the interior. It will seat 5,000 people. It is 240
feet lon<^ and 90 feet broad. It is the churcdi of the
Irish Catholics, and the preaching there is in the
En<i:li!^h lan<»:uai]:e.
The Jesuits' Church.— At the conquest, the British
Government confiscated all the Jesuits' estates, and
their revenue to this day is devoted to educational
purposes. In 1847 the Jesuits were invited by the
late Bishop to settle again at Montreal, and in 1864
they completed the present church. It is beautifully
frescoed within, and decorated in Eoman style by an
artist from Rome. The sino^in^c at the evening; ser-
vice is particularly good. There is a sermon in Eng-
lish every Sunday evening. The church is 194 feet
long and 96 feet wide ; the transept is 144 feet ;
height of nave, 75 feet. The college of St. Mary
adjoins the church.
Two churches deserve special notice, not on account
of their size, but as being a new departure in Canadian
art. These are the churches of Notre Dame de
Nazareth and Notre Dame de Lourdes. Both of them
were designed and painted in fresco b}^ M. Napoleon
Bourassa, and a school of young men under his direc-
tion. They mark the rise of a native school of art
applied to church decoration, which we may well
hope will achieve great things. In these, and more
especially in the latter of the two, the attempt is
made to take one subject and illustrate it thoroughly,
making all the details subordinate to the expression
of one idea. The church of Notre Dame de Lourdes
is to Montreal what Santa Maria Novella was to
Florence, it marks a point in the art history of the
city. Although in after years many finer paintings
than these of Cimabue and Ghirlandaio were produced
by the Florentine school, those at Santa Maria Novella
will always be doubly interesting, not only for their
184 CITY OF MONTREAL.
intrinsic merits, but because they were the precursors
of greater works. It it not that we wish to institute
comparisons between the work of M. Bourassa and
of Ghiriandaio, but to give him the credit of being the
first in Canada, an<l probal^'y in America, who has
applied the art of painting to the adornment of Chiis-
tian churches in the broad and thorough manner so
common at one period in central Italy.
Notre Dame de Nazareth.— This church is in St.
Catherine street, near St. George. It is placed between
the As^dum for Blind Children and the Orphan
Asylum. These institutions are built of brick, but
the facade of the church is of limestone, and its style
is Norman. The interior consists of a nave with a
flat ceilinii*. on each side of which is a row of columns
supporting the gallery, or rather an arcade. These
arcades have smaller columns in front, and were
probably suggested by the closed galleries for women,
which were common in early Christian churches, and
of which one specimen still remains at St. Agnese in
Home. The paintings commemorate incidents in the
early life of our Lord, his birth, his flight into Egypt,
his poverty and labour at Nazareth. Over the altar
he is painted as the Good Shepherd, and around him
are the four Evangelists. The architecture of the
interior is light and graceful, the colours are harmoni-
ous, and the effect is very pleasing.
Notre Dame de Lourdes.— This church has been built
and adorned with one idea — that of expressing in
visible form the dogma of the Immaculate Concep-
tion of the Virgin Mary. A dogma which was de-
clared to be '' of faith " first by Pope Pius IX in 1854,
although it had been held for many hundi-ed years by
numbers of the Eoman church as a pious and permis-
sible opinion.
The architecture of the church is Byzantine and
Eenaissance, such as may be seen at Venice. It con-
CHURCHES. " 185
^i
sists of a nave with narrow aisles, a transept and f
choir. The choir and the transept are terminated by
circular and domed apses, and a large central dome
rises at the intersection of the transept. The facade
is of white marble. The portico is surmounted by a
rose window and by two galleries of round-headed
arches. Projecting wings on either side are intended
to be completed with domes. It is a small church,
but the proportions are just and harmonious. The
nave is 50 feet long, 50 feet high, and 25 feet wide.
The dimensions of the transept are precisely the
same. The choir is 26 feet long and 26 feet wide.
The large dome is 26 feet wide and 90 feet high. The
total length of the church is then 102 feet, and the
total length of the transept is 76 feet, including the
dome.
The idea of the architect and painter, M. Bourassa,
includes not only the dogma of the Immaculate Con-
ception proper, but the kindred mystical idea of the
predestination of Mary. The first picture on the roof
of the nave represents the promise of the redemption
made to Adam and Eve. They are prostrated before
the Lord, who addresses the serpent. The text illus-
trated is Gen. iii, 15, as in the Vulgate, "She shall
bruise thy head." The second panel is the sacrifice of
Abraham, the text is the covenant made with Koah,
Gen. ix, 11-16. The third represents the arrival of
Rebecca before Isaac, the text is the promise made to
Abraham. The fourth, which is over the choir, is
Jacob blessing his children, and uttering the promise
that " the sceptre shall not depart frOm Judah until
Shiloh come." On the right side of the nave are the
prophets who have prophesied of the Virgin. Isaiah,
the text, chapter vii, " Behold a virgin shall conceive :
Jeremiah, the text, chapter xxxi, " A woman shall
compass a man ;" David, the text, Psalm cxl, 12,
*' Thou upholdest me in my innocence." In the choir,
Mieah, the text, chapter v, " Out of thee shall come
forth a ruler." On the left side are types of the
18G CITY OF MONTREAL.
Yirgin, first Sarah, then Eebecca, then Eaehel, and in
the choir, Eiith.
The artist then proceeds to show the Eoman view
of the realization of these promises. First, on the
right transept is painted tlie Salutation of Elizabeth,
Luke 1, 42, — on the left transept the Nativity. The
figures around the transept are those of doctors and
saints who have magnitied the glory of Mary, or advo-
cated the dogma illusti-ated. The Greek fathers on the
left, the Latin on the right.
In the choir M. Bourassa poi-trays the four great
events in the life of St. Mary. The previous pictures
represent the " predestination of Mary." The choir
contains the exposition of the dogma pi'oper. The
statue which is over the altar and strikes the eye
immediately on entering the church is symbolic of the
doctrine. It represents the Virgin in the attitude
usually attributed to this subject by the Spanish
painters — the hands crossed on the breast — but here
she is altogethei- in white, while the garment in their
pictures is usually blue. She is standing on the clouds,
and the text illustrated is Eev. xii. 1, "A woman
clothed with the sun, and the moon under her feet."
The light thro^vn down from an unseen lamp is to re-
present the clothing with the sun. As the Eoman
idea is to present St. Mary in her personal character
as the purest of created beings the mystical light upon
the white garment conveys it better than do Murillo's
l^aintings, in Avhich the dress is blue. On the cupola
above is the Annunciation ; on the right is the
Assumption, and on the left is the Coronation of the
Virgin.
Whatever opinion may be held by the spectator
upon the dogma, the artist must have the credit of
working out the exposition of it with force and unity.
Some of the painting is exceedingly good. The deco-
ration of the church in gold and colours, arabesque and
fifteenth century ornament, is very beautiful and har-
monious. The lower panels of the nave are reserved
CHURCHES. 18T
blank, probably for representations of the appearance
at Lourdes and similar occurrences elsewhere. The
sub-chapel, which is rer had by stairways from the
portico, contains a representation '^f the apparition of
the Virgin in the grotto at Lourdes, and the kneeling
figure is that of the peasant girl Bernardette who saw
the visions.
The texts are, of course, in Latin from the Yulgate
Bible, and the application of them is the one adopted
by the Boman Church. We have dw:!. at length
upon this building because it is the only one of its
kind in America. It is like an illuminated Missal,
which to a Protestant has interest as a work of art,
and to a Catholic has the superadded interest of a
work of devotion.
Church of St. James.— This is erected upon the site of
the former Bishop's Church and Palace which were
burned in the great fire of 1852. The tower is
especially lofty and graceful. The interior is light
and pleasing. The slender columns, pointed arches,
and the triforium round the nave and transept re-
mind the visi+" .' of some of the larger Gothic churches
of Europe. The pulpit is a very fine work in wood-
carving.
There arc, of course, as the tourist cannot help
seeing, many other Roman Catholic churches in Mon-
treal ; but these described are best worth a visit.
PROTESTANT CHURCHES.
It follows in the nature of things that Protestant
churches in America cannot have the artistic interest
which Boman chuiches possess, because the former
depend upon the art of architecture alone, while the
latter invoke the aid of the sister arts of painting and
sculpture. In exterior beauty the Protestant churches
surpass the Boman Catholic. Notre Dame de Lourdes
is perfect in its style, and the new church of the
Sisters of the Congregation is very fine, but there is
188 CITY OF MONTREAL.
no church which, in perfection of proportion, !=*ym-
metry, and adherence to the style chosen, equals the
Anglican Cathedral. In the R(anan churches of Mon-
treal there is no stained glass worth speaking of. The
Protestant churches, and especially the Cathedral,
contains much good work of that kind. The Romans
seem to have as great a dislike to paintings upon
windows as the Anglicans have to paintings upon walls.
Christ Church Cathedi-al, in St. Catherine street is a
monument of the taste and enero-y of the tirst resident
Anglican Bishop of ^lontreal, Dr. Fulford, whose
memorial stands close bv on its eastern side. This
group of buildings, though in point of size not so im-
posing as some of the Roman Catholic churches, far
surpasses them in unity and beauty of architectural
style and in correctness of proportion. The Fulford
Memorial resembles the much-admired Martyr's Me-
morial at Oxford, and was erected by public subscrip-
tion in honour of a man much beloved. The church
is built of Montreal limestone, faced with white sand-
stone brought from Caen in Normandy. Its dimen-
sions are : total length 212 feet, length of transept,
100 feet, height of spire 224 feet. The church is built
in the form of a Latin cross in the early English style
of architecture. The height of the nave is 67 feet. In
point of interior decoration the church is cold, but this
elfect is relieved to some extent bv the colours in the
stained glass windows. The western window is very
beautiful, as also are those in the transept and some
but not all, of those in the nave. The capitals of the
columns are carved in imitation of different Canadian
plants, and the seats in the choir are very handsome.
A passage leads to the Chapter House, an octagonal
building harmonious in style, and aiding the general
effect with its broken outlines. Noticeable in the
church is the font, a very beautiful work presented by
a parishioner. In rear of the Cathedral and facing
the same way are
CHURCHES. 189
Bishopscourt, the residence of the Bishop and the
Rectory, the residence of the Eector of the church.
St. Georges' Church.— This church is admirably situ-
ated at the south- '.vest corner of Dominion square at
the junction of Osborne and AVindsor streets. The
architecture is an ada])tation of thirteenth centuiy
Gothic. Its material is native limestone, with the
decorative parts in sandstone from Ohio. It has a
handsome stone porch, the nave is unobstructed with
piers, and the roof, with its wide span has been much
admired. The tower and spire which is wanted to
complete the design will be shortly built, and will
be 230 feet high from ground to apex. The schools in
connection w4th the church meet in a separate build-
ing adjoining, which is used for public parochial
schools as well as Sunday schools. The present
edifice was completed in 1870; the building in rear of
the church facing on Windsor street is the Rectory.
St. Stephen's Church.— This is a very pretty church,^
notable not only for its architecture, but for the ex-
ceeding convenient plan upon which it is built. It is
the outcome of much patient thought and practical
talent.
Church of St. James the Apostle. — This church is
pleasantly situated upon St. Catherine street west. It
is a solid but unpretending early English structure.
The stalls and r credos are of butterwood and are much
admired. The pulj^it is a very handsome work in
Caen stone and Egyptian marble. The congregation is
an offshoot of the earlier St. Stephen's Church. The
great attraction of the church of St. James the Apos-
tle is the Sunday afternoon litany service, discontinued
during the summer months. The musical part of the
service receives special attention at all times
Other Anglican churches are St. John the Evangel-
ist's, on St. XJrbain street ; St. Martin's, on Upper St..
190 CITY OF MONTREAL.
TJrbain Street; Trinity, on St. Denis Street; St.
Thomas', on St. Mary street; St. Luke's, on Dorchester
street east ; St. Jiide's, on C'oursol street ; Grace church,
Point St. Charles ; St. Mary's, at Ilochelaga ; and
L'Eglise du Eedempteur (French), on St. Joseph
street.
Presbyterian Churches. — The difterent Presbyterian
bodies of Canada were united a tew years ago into one,
under the name of the Presbyterian Church in Canada.
The union was objected to by a few of the ministers of
the " Old Kirk," and one important congregation in
Montreal, that of St. xlndrew's, still holds out against
it.
Crescent Street Church. — This imposing edifice is
built of Montreal limestone, and is situated on the
corner of Dorchester and Crescent streets. It is a
Gothic church of the 13th century French style, spe-
•eially adapted to the modern requirements of congre-
gational worship. The seats are arranged in curves
round the pulpit at the end of the church, and the
spectator, judging from the interior, would pronounce
the building to be circular or octagonal. It possesses a
dignified front with three portals, deeply recessed and
moulded. The tower and spire are of graceful de-
sign, and are together 217 feet high. At the back of
the church is a spacious lecture hall and Sunday school
room, forming a two story building. The congrega-
tion was founded in 1844, after the disruption of the
<Church of Scotland, as a Free Church. The first church
was in Cotte street. The congregation removed to the
present one in 1878.
St. PauPs Church, at the corner of Monique street
is undoubtedly one of the most striking edifices on
Dorchester street. The tower is singularly beautiful
in its proportions. The church is built in the early
English style, of Montreal limestone with Ohio stone
CHURCHES. 191
dressings. The interioi*, which is well laid out, is span-
ned by iihammer-heamed open-tinihered roof. The con-
gregation dates from 1832, and atlhered to the Church
of Scotland until the union of all the Preshytej'ian
bodies above referred to. The original clmrch was
in St. Helen street. The present one was opened in
1868.
St. Andrew's Church is built upon a very imposing
site on Jkaver Ilall Hill, and cannot fail to arrest the
attention of a sti'anger. It is in Gothic stjde, built of
cut limestone. The steps and portico are especially
fine, and the interior arrangement is very convenient
for worship. The congregation was founded in 1804.
The first church was on St. Peter street, near St.
Sacrament street. In 1851 the present building was
opened for worship. This church did not consent to
the union and belongs, not to the ''Presbj'terian
Church of Canada," but to the " Presbyterian Church
of Canada in connection with the Church of Scotland."
The spire is 180 feet high, and is of very graceful
proportions.
Erskine Church, corner of Peel and St. Catherine
streets, is a handsome church, built of rough lime-
stone, faced wdth dressed stone. The ditterence of
colour between the dressed and uncut Montreal lime-
stone, makes a very pleasing relief in buildings com-
posed of both. The church is Gothic in style and
of good proportions. The congregation was originally
founded in 1830 as a United Presbyterian Secession
Chiu'ch.
Knox Church, on Dorchester street, is also a fine
church. It is an offshoot of the first Presbyterian
congregation of Montreal in St. Gabriel street.
The American Presbyterian Church will attract the
attention of strangers from the United States, being
192 CITT OF MONTREAL.
1
)liinnc(l Jifter American models. It in built of cut
imestone, and has two towers of* unequal height and
differing styles. The fittings of the church are hand-
some and comfortable, and it is well laid out for hear-
ing. The organ is the largest and most costly in the
city. This cliurch is in connection with the Presby-
terian Church of the United 8tates.
The St. Gabriel Street Church.— This is the most
interesting church, histoi-ically, of all the Protestant
churches of Montreal, for it was the first one built. It
was erected in 1792, and its bell is the oldest Protestant
bell in Canada. Here the Scotch reiriments used to
assemble for worship in the days when British troop.s
were stationed in Canada. In outward appearance it
is not beautiful, but it has a quaint appearance of anti-
quity which attracts attention.
There are many other Pi'csbyterian churches in
Montreal, St. Matthew's, at Point St. Charles ; St.
Joseph street Church ; Chalmers' Church, St. Law-
rence street ; Church of the Saviour (French), Canning
street ; St. Mark's church, William street ; Stanley
street Church, &:c., &c.
The Methodist Church. — This is a very influential
body and possesses eleven churches in Montreal. The
chief are
The St. James Street Church, which is very large
and will seat about 2,500 people. The interior arrange-
ments are admirable, and the fittings and stained glass
are good. When this church is filled, as it often is, on
some anniversary service, it ])resents a very striking
appearance on account of the amphitheatre like ar-
rangement of the seats.
The Dorchester Street Church is a handsome church
in Gothic style.
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 103
Other Protestant Churches.— The First Bai»tist chnreh
is ii handsome cut stone biiildint^ at the eoriier of St.
Catherine and City Councillors' streets. Tliis body has
three churches in Montreal.
The Church of the Messiah is a fine church within and
without. It l^elonLC^^ to the Unitarian body, and is
situated on Beaver Hall hill.
Reformed Episcopal.— St. Bartholomew's, well situ-
ated on Beaver Hall hill, at the opposite corner.
Emmanuel Church. — Close to Brummond street,
upon the north side of St. Catherine street, stands the
Con<i!;re^ational church of Emmanuel, in the early
En<^lish style Avith basement. The interior is well
lighted and spacious. The Congregational body has
four churches in Montreal.
There are in 3Iontreal 7-4 church edifices, many of
them very large and costly, being more than one to
every 2,000 of the total population. Besides these
mentioned above there are two synagogues, one Ger-
man Protestant church, one Swedenborgian, one Ad-
vent church. There are five Protestant churches
in which the services aj*e conducted in the French
language.
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS.
Montreal is as remarkable for the number and
variety of its philanthropic institutions as it is for the
numbei* of its churches. This results naturally from
the circumstances attending its foundation, and from
the mixture of religions, languages and races which
followed. We have space for notice of a very few of
these institutions. There are a vast number of smaller
ones which cannot even be enumerated. Every con-
gregation has its own congregational charities. Every
national society has its '' home" for those of its own
13
104 CITY OF MUNTUEAL.
nationality. The 8t. Goor^'o's Society tor English, 8t.
An'lrew'h for Scotch, St. J'atricU's foi- Catholic Irish,
the Iri>h Benevolent Society lor Protestant Irish,
the (lernian Society for Germans ; and, stian<;ely
enoui^h, the French ( 'aiia<liai)s, whomii^ht natuially ho
Hupposed to he at home here, liave a national society
— St. John the Baptist's. Tiien there ai'e many work-
inii^men's l^enetit societies — Frencli, Iii>h and Kn^lish.
There aie colonizati(>n societies. Societies foi' j)rayer
and ^ood works i;eneially; for the reformation of out-
cast women, foj' the trainini;- of outcast children, for
widows and orphans, ki:. Many of tlie lioman ( 'atholic
religious orders will he separately mentioned, hut it
will he impossihle to refer to all of them. Only two of
them — the Caiinelites at llochelaga, and Les Soeurs
Adoratrices du Precieux Sang at Notre Dame de
Grace — are contemplative orders. There are Init 52
nuns in both houses, and they are of course cloistered.
There is at Oka a monastery of Trappists. They devote
themselves to farming 1000 acres of land, and have a
saw-mill of their own. But the numerous religious
habits seen in the streets of Monti'eal aie those of
communities engaged in some practical work, either of
charity or of education. It would be difficult to men-
tion any philanthropic object which is not covered by
some institution. The social organization of Montreal
is so composite, that in order to woi'k well man}- insti-
tutions re<iuire to be in tri2)licate at least. Eace and
language divide the French from the English and
Irish, and religion divides the English from the French
and Irish. These last are sub-divided by religion, so
that they require two separate national benevolent
societies. It is this wiiich makes variety in Montreal
life and emulation in its institutions. The French
and English races flow on side by side like the two
great rivers opposite the city, which do not commingle
until they reach the tide, and feel the influence of the
great ocean in which all streams must eventually lose
their individual peculiarities.
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 105
Montreal General Hospital — This hiiildinjjj was
f()Uii<lo(l ill 1822 by puhlic subscri])tion, and has been
greatly enhii'ged in succeedini^ years by the liberality
of a tew wealthy citizens. There are a large niimbei*
of wards for poor patients, and adviee and medicine
are given to a great nmnberof out-door patients. There
are pi'ivate wards for those who, having means, may
not have a home, nor fi'iends to attend them. Hero
they will receive tlie best medical advice and the most
careful inirsing. A special buiMing is set apart for
contagious diseases. The total number of in-door
patients ti*eated in the year 188:j-4 was 2017. Tho
average daily number of patients in the wards wavS
138. In the out-door department there were 11,38<)
consultations, besides those in the eye and ear depart-
ment, where 1,172 new j)atients were treated. During
hist year the Hospital received S-IO.OOO be([ueathed by
the late I). J. Clreenshields, and 850,000 presented by
Mr. George Stephen for the erection of a new wing.
The annual cost of maintenance is about 340.000.
Protestant House of Industry and Refuge — A large
brick building on Dorchester street near Bleur}^, for a
refuge for the homeless and friendless poor. During
the year ending March, 1883. the number of night
lodgings given were — men 16,135, women, 3,400. The
average number of inmates was 117. A soup kitchen
is attached, and there is also a board of out-door relief.
Such of the inmates as are able to work earn a small
revenue for the house by hiring out for light jobs
and by preparing kindling wood. The institution is
supported by voluntary contributions and carried on
by a committee of citizens elected annually by the
contributors.
A country house for the accommodation of the aged
and helpless inmates has been recently completed on
a farm a few miles from the city, bequeathed for that
pui'pose by the late Thomas Molson. One wing of this
building will be paid for by a bequest of S 16,000, left
196 CITY OF MONTREAL.
by a former President. The main building will cost
about $24^000, and i^ being built by the contributions
of citizens.
The Mackay Institute for Protestant Deaf-Mutes.—
The building and grounds of this useful institution
ware given fy the late Joseph Mackay. The number
of pupils is 38, of whom sixteen are girls. It is a
boarding school for the education and moral and indus-
trial training of Protestant deaf-mutes. The charge for
pupils is S120 per annum. Free admission is granted
in certain cases to the children of poor Protestants
residing in the Province of Quebec. The building is a
very handsome one, built of Montreal limestone, and
is situated on the Cote St. Luc road, about two miles
westward from the citv.
The Young Men's Christian Association Building.—
The handsome building of this institution is situated
at the corner of Ci'aig and Radegonde streets. It is well
built of rough limestone, faced with white stone, and
is conspicuous by its pointed tower. A young man
arriving in Montreal, without friends, would do well at
once to visit the rooms of this association and enroll
his name if he is seeking employment. A good read-
ing-room is opened for gratuitous use.
The Montreal Dispensary, founded in 1843. This
is situated on St. Antoine street, IN'o. 135. It is sup-
ported by voluntary contributions, and affords medical
aid to the sick and poor of every nationality and
religion. The attending physicians visit at their
homes those who are too poor to pay and cannot go
out. The total number of applications for medical
relief in 1883 was 9248.
The Ladies' Benevolent Institution.— No. 31 Berthelot
street, founded in 1832 for rphans or fatherless chil-
dren. The children are cared for and educated until
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 197
a suitable age, when they are placed in situations
where they can earn their own living. 134 persons are
at present in the institution. It is supported by volun-
tary contributions. A large building and extensive
grounds are devoted to this charity.
Protestant Infant's Home, Xo. 508 Guy street. —
Founded in 1870 as a foundling asylum and an orphan
asylum. The number of children received during the
year was 65. The death rate was 10 per cent.
Protestant Orphan Asylum, Xo. 1445 St. Catherine
street. This institution was founded in 1822 for the
care of orphan children, who are trained and educated,
and indentured when they reach a suitable age. There
are thirty-four children now in the as^^lum. It is sup-
ported by voluntary contributions, and caiTied on by
a committee of ladies.
The Hervey Institution, founded in 1847 under the
name of the Home and School of 1 lustry. This
institution is for the training for domestic service of
children who have lost one or both parents. It is
managed by a committee of ladies, and supported by
voluntary contributions.
The Women's Protective Immigration Society.— The
"Home " is at 131 Mansfield street. It is for the pur-
pose of receiving female immigrants until they can
find emploj'ment. During last year 236 persons were
so sheltered for varying periods of time.
The University Maternity Hospital.— This Hospital,
supervised by a committee of ladies, is attended by
the professors of McGill College. It is at 93 St. Urbain
street.
The Western Hospital, Dorchester street west, is
supported by voluntary contributions, and attended
198 CITY OF MONTREAL.
by the leading medical men of the city. It is a
Maternity Hospital and specially intend d for treat-
ment of the diseases of women.
Hospital of the Grey Nuns.— This great charity was
founded in the year 1755. The antique and venerable
pile of buildings, which was at first erected on the
river-side near the office of the Ocean Steamship Com-
pany, has been pulled down to make j-oom for ware-
houses, and the nuns removed in 1871 to their new
hospital in Guy street, more commodious and more
airy, though decidedly wanting in that air of antiquity
which used to be so pleasing to strangers.
The order of the Grey Sisters, which now num-
bers 320 professed sisters and 60 novices, was founded
in 1737 by a Canadian lady, the widow of M. de You-
ville. She took up a work which, commenced in 1692
by M. Charron, had languished after his death, and,
forming a religious community, established this hos-
pital for the reception of aged and infirm people. The
name of Foundling street (near St. Ann's market)
commemorates the spot where, in 1755, the body of a
mui'dered infant was discovered by this pious and
benevolent lady, in the little river now covered by the
street. One arm of the child projected above the ice,
and a poniard in its throat proclaimed the horrible
crime which had been perpetrated. Stirred with
compassion at the pitiful sight, she extended the
objects of her institution so as to embrace orjDhans
and foundlings. The work grew upon her hands, and
here, in this enormous mass of buildings, are gathered
many hundreds, helpless through extreme age or
extreme youth, or incapacitated by incurable diseases
from taking care of themselves. The daughter of the
famous Col. Ethan Allen, of Vermont, died in 1819 a
nun of this order. In 1881 the total number of inmates
were : aged and infirm 275, orphans 125, foundlings
222, servants 18, nuns 95, novices 67. The foundling
children ai*e from all parts of the Dominion and
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONsT 199
the neiglibouring States ; some are brought from the
lying-in hospitals. During each year TOO to 800 are
received. They are given out at first to hired nurses,
who retain them until eighteen months old, when
they are taken back. The chiklren are all reared by
hand and therefore onlv about one-third survive.
These Sisters have nine establishments in the North-
west, in the Eed Eiver, Saskatchewan, and Mackenzie
Eiver districts, thirty in the Province oi* Quebec, and
three in the United States.
In the city they have a number of detached institu-
tions under their care, viz. : —
St. Joseph's Asylnm. — Cathedral street; for orphan girls.
Dispensary. — For giving medicine to the poor.
St. Patrick's Asylum. — Near St. Patrick's church ;'for Irish
orphans, and aged persons.
St. Bridget's Asylum. — For aged and infirm persons,* ser-
vant girls out of place, and as a night refuge.
St. Joseph's Infant School. — St. Bonaventure street.
Nazareth Infant School and Institution for Blind
Children. — St Catherine street. :
Bethlehem Asylum. — St. Antoine street; for orphan girls
and for an infant school.
Hospice St. Charles. — Notre Dame street; for the aged
and infirm.
The Hotel Dieu.— This institution is the oldest in
Montreal, having been founded in 1644 by Madame de
Bouillon, a French lady of very high rank, who sent
out 42,000 livres by the hands of Mons. and Madame
d'Ailleboust to build a hospital at Montreal. As there
was not room in the little fort for such a- building, a
site was chosen near at hand (now covered by a block
200 CITY OF MONTREAL.
of warehouses in St. Paul street, called Xun's build-
ings), and a building erected, which was surrounded
by palisades and garrisoned against the Iroquois, who
prowled incessantly around the infant colony. There
Mademoiselle Mance took up her abode. Obedient to
a su2)ernatural call, she had left an honoured and
peaceful home to serve God in this wilderness in-
fested by cruel savages, and, with three women, the
only companions of her sex, she fearlessly commenced
the work of which the results have been so great.
The present buildings were completed in 1861, and
are situated at the head of St. Famille street. The
Hospital proper occupies the western part and is
divided by the chapel from the Nunnery. Eighty of
the Sisters are cloistered and do not go outside of the
buildings and grounds. There are 350 beds in the hos-
pital ; over 3,000 sick persons are annually received,
and the number of professed sisters and novices in
attendance is about one hundred. This establishment
is carried on at an annual expenditure of $32,000.
The Notre Dame Hospital.— Founded for the relief of
the sick of all creeds. The nursing is under the care
of the Grey Nuns, fourteen of whom reside continually
in the building. There is a Catholic chaplain, but
patients may send for any clergyman they prefer.
During the year ending June 1883, 862 patients were
admitted. In the out-door department, relief was
given to 2,660 patients. In the out-door eye and ear
department 599 patients were treated.
Convent of the Good Shepherd, Sherbrooke street. —
This is an institution for the reformation of women
and children, carried on by the Sisters of Charity of
the Good Shepherd. There are 59 nuns besides
novices and postulants. It was founded in 1844.
Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum— 1135 St. Catherine
street. Founded in 1832.
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 201
The Deaf and Dumb Institution.— This was founded in
1848 for the instruction of deaf and dumb boys. It is
carried on by the Clerks of St. Yiator, a Eoman
Catholic religious order. Instruction is in French
mainly, but there are two English classes.
Asile de la Providence, founded in 1843, and carried
ou by the Sisters of Providence on St. Catherine
sti-eet, for aged and infirm persons, oi'phans, &c.
These sisters number in this city over 80. They have
schools with 600 pupils, an asylum for deaf-mutes,
two hospitals, a dispensary, and they make visits of
relief, and go out nursing the sick and poor. These
nuns have the following institutions under their care
in Montreal which is their headquarters, but they
have branch establishments in many other places,
even as far off as the Mackenzie Eiver, in the north-
west, and in Brazil and Chili. In all they number
469 religious and 43 postulants :
Dispensary, founded in 1863.
Institution for Deaf Mutes, in St. Denis Street, founded in
1851, for deaf and dumb girls, containing 32 nuns and 215
pupils.
St. Jacques* School, St. Denis Street; 10 nuns and 392
pupils.
Hospice St. Alexis, for orphans ; 4 nuns and 135 orphans.
Hospice St. Joseph de la Providence, Mignonne street,
for lady boarders.
St. Vincent de Paul Infant School, Visitation street; 14
nuns and 696 pupils.
Asile du St. Enfant Jesus, Coteau St. Louis, for visiting
the sick and poor ; 9 nuns and 201 pupils.
Sacred Heart Infant School, Fullum street; 6 nuns and
226 pupils. Visits are made also to the sick, and to the
prisoners in the jail.
202 CITY OF MONTREAL.
These Sisters have care also of the Insane Asylum
at Longue Pointe.
Besides the preceding institutions there are Tem-
perance Societies, Bands of Hope, Odd Fellows
Societies, Burial Societies, and numl>erless others.
For the protection of dumb animals there is a very
active and efficient
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals;
office, 199 St. James street. During the year 1882
forty convictions were obtained by the efforts of this
Society.
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.
The question of public instruction which so pro-
foundly agitates all mixed communities has long been
settled in Lower Canada. There is a Superintendent
of Education for the whole province, assisted by a
Roman Catholic Board for Eoman Catholic schools,
and a Protestant Board with a Secretary for Protest-
ant schools. Upon the Eoman Catholic Board all the
Bishops of that communion sit personally, or by pro-
curation. The Protestant Board is nominated so as
to represent the various Protestant bodies. The
school law for Montreal is in some respects peculiar.
An assessment of one-fifth of one per cent, is levied
annually upon all the real estate in the city, collected
by the City Treasurer with the other taxes, and
handed over to the two city boards of Protestant and
Catholic School Commissioners. The tax on the pro-
perty of Protestants goes to the Protestant Board,
and that on the property of Catholics to the Catholic
Board.
McGill University.— McGill University owes its origin
to the wealthy and patriotic citizen of Montreal,
whose name it bears ; and its consequent progress has
been due to the liberality of other citizens of Montreal
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 203
who have added to the original foundation endow-
ments of chairs and scholarships, and gifts in build-
ings, books, specimens and apparatus.
James McGill was born on the 6th October, 1744^
in Glasgow, Scotland. He received his early training
and education in that country, but of these little is
known. He arrived in Canada before the American
revolution, and appears, in the first place, to have
engaged in the north-west fur trade, then one of the
leading branches of business in Canada. vSubsequently
he settled in Montreal, and, in partnership with his
brother Andrew, became one of the leading merchants
in the little town of about nine thousand inhabitants,
which then represented our commercial metropolis.
He died in 1813, leaving his property for the founda-
tion of a college, to be called by his name, and under
the management of an educational body then recently
established by law, though not actually instituted, and
entitled the " Eoyal Institution for the Advancement
of Learning." Owing to litigation as to the will, the
property did not become immediately available, and
it was not till 1821 that the institution was granted
University powers by Eoyal charter.
The value of the property bequeathed by Mr.
McGill was estimated, at the time of his death, at
£30,000 ; it has since become much more valuable^
owing to the gi'owth of the city. The sum was not
large in comparison with many other ediicational be-
quests ; but it would be difficult to estimate its value
to Canada in general, and to Montreal in particular.
Gathei'ing around it the gifts of other liberal men, it
has sustained the McGill University, and carried it on
to its present point of usefulness and success as a
source of literary and scientific culture. Indirectly,
it has benefited the cause of common and grammar-
school education, through the action of the Eoyal
Institution, through the services of the students and
graduates as teachers, and through the McGill Nor-
20-4 CITY OF MONTREAL.
mal School, which, though supported by Government,
would scared}' have been established but for the
influence of the college. Those who have in these
ways received its educational benefits are to be found
in all parts of the country, contributing by superior
skill and intelligence to the common good. An
endowment of this kind is, probably, of all invest-
ments of money, that which yields the richest returns.
The experience of older nations has shown that such
endowments survive changes of religion, of dynasty,
of social and political systems, and go on bearing fruit
from age to age. It will, doubtless, be so here also,
and the time will come when the original endowment
of McGill will appear but as the little germ from
which a great tree has sprung — the spring which
gives birth to a mighty river. It is not an institution
depending upon government aid or indebted in any
way to government. It is the creation of English
citizens of Montreal; and the Molsons, Frothinghams
and others who have almost founded it anew have set
an example which has been generously followed.
During last year the following additions were made to
the endowment: — by bequest of Miss Barbara Scott
830,000, for the chair of civil engineering; by bequest
of Major Mills $42,000, for the chair of classics ; by
bequest of Mr. David Greenshields $40,000 for the
chairs of chemistry and mineralogy ; by bequest of
Mrs. Andrew Stewart (n^e Gale) $25,000, for a chair
in the Faculty of Law, and in addition to these
bequests a subscri2:>tion for five years of $2,000 a year
for the chair of botany has been given by a citizen
still living.
At the present time the property of McGill Uni-
versity may be estimated at three-quarters of a million
of dollars. It has forty professors and lecturers,
embracing some of the most eminent men in their
departments in the Dominion, and its students may
be stated in round numbers as about 500. The latest
large benefaction which it has received is the Peter
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 205
Eedpath Museum, which was erected by the benefiic-
tor, whose name it beai's, at a cost of about SI 20,000
and contains veiy vahiable collections, more especial-
ly in geology and zoology.
The University has four Faculties — of Arts, Applied
Science, Medicine, and Law. Being non-denomina-
tional it has no Theological Faculty, but it offers
advantageous t«-ms of affiliation to Theological Col-
leges, whereby their students can have the benefit of
its classes and degrees, and it has already four such
colleges, re])resenting four of the leading Protestant
denominations. It has also two affiliated colleges in
Arts — Mori'in College, Quebec, and St. Francis Col-
lege, Eichmond. The McGill Normal School for
training teachers for the Protestant population of the
Province of Quebec is an affiliated school.
Its buildings are pleasantly situated in grounds laid
out in walks and ornamented with trees, at the foot
of the Montreal mountain, and, though most of them
are unpretending in exterior, they are substantially
built of stone, and are well adapted for the purposes of
education. It has an excellent philosophical appara-
tus and collections of models in mining and engineer-
ing and also good chemical and physiological labora-
tories. It has a library of 25,000 volumes in addition
to its medical library, and though these libraries are
not large, they include an unusually choice and valu-
able selection of books.
Though the University has existed since 1821, and
its endowment since 1813, its actual history" as an
important educational institution dates from the-
amendments of its charter and the re-organization or
its general body in 1852. It is thus a comparatively^
new institution, and is perhaps to be Judged rather by
the indications of vitality and growth which it pre-
sents than by its past results. It has, however,
already more than 1200 graduates, many of them
occupying important ]3ublic positions in Canada and
elsewhere.
206 CITY OF MONTREAL.
FACUEtlES OF MCGILL COLLEOE.
The Faculty of Arts-T-The completo course of stud}'
extends over four sessions, of eiji^ht months oac'h, and
includes Classics and Mathematics, Exi^erimental Physics,
Englisli Literature, Logic, Mental and Moral Science,
Natural Science, and one modern language, or llel)rew'. The
•course of study leads to the degree of B.A., M.A., and LL.D.
The Faculty of Applied Science provides a thorough pro-
fessional training, extending over three or four years, in
Civil Engineering, Mechanical Engineering, Mining Engi-
neering and Assaying, and Practical Chemistry, leading to
the degrees of Bachelor of A^)plied Science, Master of Engi-
neering, and Master of Applied Science.
The Faculty of Medicine. — The complete course of study
in medicine extends over four sessions, of six months each,
^nd leads to the degree of M. D., C. M. There is also a sum-
mer course, which is optional.
This Faculty occupies a separate building at the north of
the grounds. It is the most important Medical School in
Canada and draws its students from all parts of the Domi-
nion. The class tickets of the Faculty are recognised in all
the great Medical Schools in England. The University
Maternity Hospital and the Montreal General Hospital afford
great facilities for hospital practice. The library contains
7,000 volumes.
The Faculty of Law. — The complete course in law extends
over three sessions, of six months each, and leads to the
degrees of B.C.L., and D.C.L.
Presbyterian College of Montreal.— This institution is
affiliated with McGill University. It is devoted
entirely to the training of missionai-ies and ministers
speaking English, French and Gaelic in connection
with the Presbyterian Church in Canada. It is under
the control of the general assembly of the church.
The college was chartei-ed in 1865 and from a small
beginning has grown until it has now eighty gradu-
ates and seventy-two students, a library of over 10,000
volumes, buildings and endowments which exceed a
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 207
<|Utirter of Ji million <lollai's in value. This amount
has been drawn chiefly from Montreal and tlie imme-
diate neighbourhood.
The collci^e has found many generous benefactors.
Among them are Mrs. l^edpath who endowed one of
the chairs with $20,000, and the late Mr. Edward
Mackay who gave $40,000 to the endowment in his
life time. The sum of $10,000 was bequeathed by
Mr. Joseph Mackay for the same purpose.
The original college building is a stone editice, ele-
gant and commodious, pleasantly situated on the rising
ground above the city, commanding a view of the
University grounds, the city, and the scenery of the
St. Lawrence. To this has been added, by the gene-
rosity of Mr. David Morrice, an elegant and much
more extensive series of stone buildings, designated by
the Board as the Morrice Hall, including convocation
hall and library, dining hall, dormitories and offices,
forming with the original building three sides of a
large quadrangle.
Resident students are furnished with rooms, heat-
ing and light, free of expense ; but the refectory and
attendance of servants are in the hands of the steward,
whose fee will in no case exceed $12 per month.
The Wesleyan Theological College.— This college w^as
founded in 1873, and incorporated and affiliated to
McGill University in 1879. It is devoted to the in-
struction and training of ministers for the Wesleyan
church. It is under the care of a Principal, who, with
the other professors, gives instruction upon all the
subjects required for a complete Theological course.
For mental philosophy, ethics, logic, the natural sci-
ences and other non-theological subjects, the stu-
dents attend lectures at McGill College. The College
buildings recently erected are on University street, at
the northern enti-ance to the McGill College grounds.
The number of students is twenty, of whom eight are
French.
208 CITY OF MONTREAL.
The Congregational College.— Tliis institution has re-
cently completed a handsome building on McTavinh
street close to the grounds of MctJill College. There
are four professors and nine students. Students are
trained up here for the ministry of the Congregational
diurches of Canada. The collci^e is affiliated to Mc-
Gill University.
The Anglican Diocesan College.— This is the training
college of students for the ministry of the Church of
England in the Diocese of Montreal. It is situated on
Dorchester street, opposite the Windsor Hotel. It is
under the care of a Principal and five professors. Num-
ber of students, twenty. The college is affiliated to
McGill University from whence the students derive
their degrees in Arts.
TJniversity of Bishops College.— The Theological and
Arts Faculties of this University are at Lennoxville.
The Medical Faculty is at Montreal, It occupies a
large building on Ontario street, and has a staff of
eighteen professors, and the number of students is
thirty-four. The course of instruction is complete,
and the class tickets for the various departments are
accepted by the Royal College of Surgeons, the
Royal College of Physicians, London, and the Royal
College of Physicians, Edinburgh. The students
have access to the Montreal General Hospital, the
Western Hospital, the Hotel Dieu Hospital, and the
Montj'eal Dispensary. The college has every facility
for teaching in the way of museum and laboratories.
The physiological and histological laboratories are
very complete.
Montreal School of Medicine and Surgery.- This in-
stitution wa« incorporated in 1845 and is a part of the
University of Victoria College at Cobourg. The lec-
tures are delivered in the French language. There
are fifteen professors upon the staff, and, during the
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 209
last session, (lio nmnlK'r of students was 147. This
school has sj)ecial charge of the Hotel Dieii lIosj)ital
and of the Dis]K'nsary of the Sisters of Pi'()videnec.
The college building is oj>posite to the Hotel Dieu.
The McGill Normal School, situated on Behnont
street, is an institution under the Governnient school
law for training teachers for the Protestant schools.
There are nine professors and 126 students. The
school is afliliated to the McCJill University, and six
members ol' the corporation of that institution assist
the Superintendent of Education in its directicm. The
complete course of study is very thorough, extending
over three vears. Students are <i:raded into three
classes, those studying for an elementary school
diploma, for a model school diploma, and for an
academy diploma. The training and instruction in
the Normal School is supplemented by practice in the
two Model schools which are attached. These contain
300 pupils. The education in the Normal School is
gratis, but those who are admitted must sign an obli-
gation to teach for at least three years, and must have
passed an examination.
The Protestant Board of School Commissioners. -This
is a Board of six members, three of whom are ap-
pointed by the Quebec Government, and three by the
Coi*poration of the city. Two members retire annu-
ally but may be re-appointed. It is constituted for ad-
ministering funds raised for the public city schools.
The gross income of the Board for the year ending
June, 1883, was $107,074, raised as follows: From the
city tax of one-fifth of one per cent, on the real estate
of Protestants, $72,552, from the Government of the
province, $4,986, from school fees, $29,554. The
amount required for building school houses was raised
by debentures bearing interest at six per cent., with
a sinking fund of two per cent. The amount of in-
terest and sinking fund is deducted by the City
14
210 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Treasurer before handing over the assessments. The
schools under the care ot the Board are the following :
High School for Boys. — A classical school leading up to
the University, 817 pupils.
High School for Girls. — 157 pupils. The number of
teachers in these two schools is 25.
Senior School.— A commercial school to complete the edu-
cation of those from the common schools who do not wish to
go to college or to be taught the classical languages, four
teachers, 87 pupils.
Point St. Charles Elementary School
. . . . 302 pupils.
Mill Street
«
.... 58 "
Royal Arthur
«
... 493 "
Ann Street
«
....426 "
Ontario Street
((
... 123 "
British and Canadian
<(
....392 ''
Sherbrooke Street
it
....578 ''
Dorchester Street
u
....181 "
Panet Street
u
...320 "
The average total number of scholars in the Com-
missioner's Schools is 3548, and of teachers 105.
Seminary of St. Sulpice.— In the year 1636 the Abb^
Olier, a zealous priest, while praying in the Church
of St. Germain des Pr^s, in Paris, received, or thought
he received, a divine revelation to found upon the
island of Montreal a society of priests for the propaga-
tion of the true faith in the new world. Led by
various mystical guidings, he formed the acquaintance
of Dauversiere, a receiver of taxes in Anjou, whose
mind had been prei)ared in a similar manner. These
two men resolved to found upon the island three
religious orders — one of pi-iests, to preach the true
faith ; another of nuns, to nurse the sick; and a third
also of nuns, to educate the young. The dream of
these enthusiasts is to-day realized in the Seminary of
St. Sulpice, the hospital of the Hotel Dieu, and the
schools of the Congregation of Notre Dame.
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 211
Olier and Dauversi^re had very little money, but
they found the Baron de Fancamp, who was rich, and,
with the aid of three others, they purchased, in the
year 1(J40, the seigniory of the island of Montreal
from the company to whom it had been granted by
the King of France. Then, finding in Maisonneuve
a suitable leadej*, they sent out, in 1641, the colony
which in Ma}', 1642, founded the city of Montreal.
In 1647 the AbbddeQu^lus, with three other priests,
came to Montreal to cdvry out Olier's views. He
founded in 1657 the antique looking building adjoining
the church of Xotre Dame ; and its solid walls still
testify to the thoroughness of the artisans of that day.
The objects of the Order of Sulpicians, the " Gen-
tlemen of the seminary," as they are called in Mont-
real, are, first, to carry on a theological training college
for priests, and, secondly, to teach the secular youth.
The larger portion of the Eoman Catholic clergy in
the province have been trained by them, and the
building in ^otre Dame street is the home of all the
members of their order when they visit Montreal.
The business of the seminary is carried on in the
offices of this building, for the Gentlemen of the
seminary, being the successors of the original grantees
of the island, have much secular business to transact
with the citizons.
The educational establishment of the seminary has
for years been at the western limit of the city, upon
extensive grounds, formerly called the '' Priest's
Farm." In the picturesque towers, which are all
remaining of the old Fort de la Montague, schools
were opened for the instruction of the Indians, by the
priests of the seminary and the ladies of the Congre-
gation de Notre Dame.
The imposing mass of buildings which has been
erected here must at once attract inquiry. It con-
sists of a main building, 530 feet long, flanked by two
transverse wings, one of which is 252 feet long, and
crossed in the centre by the chapel. The chapel is
212 CITY OF MONTREAL.
113 feet in length, very tastefully finished, and Ihe
paintings on the walls are good. The architecture is
in Eoman style, and the glass being stained in light
colours, the whole interior elt'ect is pleasing.
The number of pupils and the statf of professors is
very large. Costly physical aj^paratus has been pro-
vided for the classes in science, and the libi-ary is very
extensive. In the school of philosophy there are four
2)rofessors and 50 students. There are nine professors
of theology with 210 students. Many of the Roman
clergy of the United States have been trained here,
the present Bishops of Boston and of Portland among
the number. In the ''Petit Seminaire " education is
provided for those who do not intend to enter the
church ; the late Sir George Cartier, Hon. Mi\ Ouimet
Superintendent of Schools, and many others who have
risen to power in the province, were educated at this
seminary. A large number of youths from the United
States have also been educated here. There are now
299 pupils taught by 22 professors and masters.
The older portion of the building in Notre Dame
street is worth a visit, if only to see what substantial
work was done by Montreal masons two hundred
years ago. In the very heart of the busy city one
step will bring the toui-ist into a quiet garden sur-
rounded by ecclesiastical buildings and pervaded by
an air of antiquity which is not met with in America
outside of this Province.
Laval University.— What the McGill University is to
the English and Protestants of the province, the
University of Laval is to the French and Eoman
Catholics. The chief seat of this institution is at
Quebec city, and it is under the auspices and manage-
ment of the Seminary of Quebec, who provided the
funds for its erection. The branch at Montreal is
not a separate college, but an integral part of the
University, the professors of both ranking indiffer-
ently according to seniority. The Yice-rector of
EDUCATIONAL IXSTITUTIONS. 213
the University resides at Montreal, and there is a
resident Dean of each facnlt3^
The Faculty of Arts is not yet organized. The
Faculty of Theology is held in the building of the
Seminary of St. Sulpice, on Sherbrooke street.
The Faculty of Law meets in the Cabinet de Lec-
ture, opposite the Seminaiy building, in Notre Dame
street. It has eighty students and a large staff of
professors, among whom ai-e the Hon. P. J. O. Chau-
veau, formerly Premier and Minister of Public In-
fitruction, Hon. Mr. Chapleau, the present Secretary
of State and Justices Jette and Loranger. The Dean
is Mr. C. S. Cherrier, the oldest barrister in Montreal.
The Faculty of Medicine is in the old Government
House, on Xotre Dame street.
The establishment of Laval University at Montreal
profoundly agitated the French community. It was
opposed with great vehemence and pertinacity by
the late Bishop of Montreal and by the Bishop of
Thi'ee Eivers, and supported by the Archbishop of the
Province, the Bishop of Montreal, and all the other
Bishops. The matter was repeatedly referred to
Eome, and a Bull was at last issued by the present
Pope in favour of the L^niversity. This, however,
is not considered final, and the contest still goes on.
Land has been acquired for the college buildings, but
whether these will ever be erected depends upon the
final decision of the Pope. The good Catholics of
Canada never would let the Popes rest long, but
always have had an ecclesiastical nut for the Roman
Curia to crack.
The building in which the Medical Faculty holds its
sessions is one of the old landmarks of the city. It was
built in the year 1704 by the Chevalier de Ramesay,
father of the officer who surrendered Quebec after
Wolfe's victory. DeRamesay was Governor of Mon-
treal, and this chateau was in the most fashionable
part of the city, close to the residence of the Marquis
de Yaudreuil, the Count de Contrecoeur, the Count
214 CITY OF MONTREAL.
d'Eschambault, the Count de Beaiijeu, and other
noblemen of the French period. When the revohition-
ary army occupied Montreal, General Wooster's head-
quarters were in this building ; General Benedict
Arnold afterwards occupied it, and here resided, in the
winter of 1775-76, Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Chase,
and Charles Carroll, of CarroUtown, who were sent
by Congress to win the Canadians over to the revo-
lutionary side. Their errand was abortive, for the
French clergy and noblesse produced some campaign
documents of Congress dwelling upon the dreadful
character of the Eoman Catholic religion, intended for
distribution to Protestants only, in other places than
Canada, and which the ingenious Franklin was un-
able to explain away. Charles Carroll's brother, a
Catholic priest, afterwards first Bishop of Baltimore,
came on to assist, but without success. The declara-
tions for distribution in England, Canada, and the
colonies were absurdly in'consistent. 'The British
Governors continued to use the building as the
Government House until Lord Elgin's time, when the
seat of government was moved ft*om Montreal after
the ebullition of loyalty in 1849, when the Governor
was stoned and the Parliament House burned. Subse-
quently it was occupied by the Quebec Government
for the Jacques Cartier Normal School. It is a long
low building with thick walls, and very substantially
built. Is is as strong now as it was 178 years ago
when it was erected.
St. Mary's College.— This institution is carried on by
the Jesuit fathers. It adjoins the church of the
Gesu, and occupies a very conspicuous site on Bleuiy
street. It was founded in the year 1848, and re-
moved to the present building in 1855. The design
comprises a portico and colonnade on the southern
fa9ade, which are still required to give completeness
to the architectural effect. The building is 225 feet
long by 50 wide. The pupils number 360, many of
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 215
whom are from the United States. The course of
study is divided into two distinct departments, classi-
cal and commercial.
The college possesses a museum, containing a good
collection of mineral specimens, mostly Canadian. It
possesses also a collection of apparatus for scientific
research, and a well furnished laboratory for ap-
plied science. The sciences of physiology, botany
and zoology are illustrated by an extensive collection
of models. There are three libraries connected with
the college, and a good collection of coins and medals.
The academic hall is imder the church. It is built in
the style of an amphitheatre, and holds 1200 people.
It is furnished with a stage, scenery and costumes,
and here during the winter the students give drama-
tic, literary and musical entertainments. The society
has a noviciate of the Order with 45 candidates at
S^ult-au-Recollet. ^
The Jacques Caxtier Normal School.— This is an estab-
lishment of the Provincial Government for the train-
ing of teachers for the Catholic public schools of
the province. The Abb^ Yerreau is the Princij)al,
assisted by nine professors and a librarian. It is pro-
vided with model schools to afford practical training
for teachers. The course of study covers three years,
The school now occupies very handsome and commo-
dious buildings on Sherbrooke street east, on the local-
ity known as Logan's farm. The building is of Mont-
real limestone, and the site is very commanding.
Every facility for thorough teaching is provided. The
number of pupils in training is seventy-six.
The Roman Catholic School Commission.— This board
corresponds to the English board described on page
209. It is constituted in the same manner for carry-
ing on the public schools for Eoman Catholic chil-
dren, Irish as well as French. The gross income
of the board is $94,576, of which $67,700 was received
216 CITY OF MONTREAL.
from the city school tax, S16,013 from the Grovcrn-
ment education gi*ant, and $0,963 from pupils' fees,
From this the intei'est and sinking fund on the deben-
tures sold to build school houses has to be deducted,
The board has 30 schools, 212 teachers, and 9,825
pupils under its supervision. It carries on also a poly-
technic school, under eight professors. The building
in which that school is held contains also accommo-
dation for the Commercial Academy. It is situated
in extensive grounds between St. Catherine and
Ontario streets, and is a remarkably fine and solid
edifice in handsome architectural style. The follow-
ing schools are carried on by the board. Six of them
are under lay teachers. The remainder are subsidized
schools under the control of the Board but taught by
private persons or by the religious orders : —
No. of Pupils.
1 Plateau Commercial Academy 412 Bovs.
2 Montcalm School ' 418 do
3 Champlain " 383 do
4 Sarsfield " 330 do
5 Belmont " 285 do
6 Olier " 223 do
7 Plessis " 345 do
8 St. Bridget " 630 do
9 School 256 Notre Dame street 180 Girls.
10 do Mullins street 268 do
11 do St. Catherine street 368 do
12 do corner Maisonneuve and Onta-
rio streets 801 do
13 do cor. Visitation and Craig streets 774 do
14 do corner Mignonne and St. Denis
streets 98 do
15 do for the blind 44 Boys and Girls.
16 do 7 St. Elizabeth street 483 do
17 do 165 " " 107 do
18 do 21 Montcalm street 93 do
20 do corner Cadieux and Rov streets 259 Girls.
21 do 312 Logan street ' 190 Boys and Girls.
22 do 250Panet " 103 do
24 do 199 Chatham street 356 do
25 do 624 St. Catherine street 212 do
/
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 21*7
?o School 21 1 St. Antoine street 158 Boys and Girls.
27 do St. Joseph street 704 Boys.
//28 do " " 516 Girls.
29 do St. Anne street 637 Boys.
30 do " " 421 Girls.
Evening School 17 Young Men.
The Christian Brothers' Schools.— The headquarters in
America of this celebrated teaching order is at Mon-
treal, and the chief establishment is in Cott^ street.
They have in Canada 35 schools with 10,007 pupils.
The total number of religious teachers of this order in
Canada is 333. Their pupils in Montreal number
3,793.
The Sisters of the Congregation of Notre Dame.—
This body of religious ladies has a very large
number of establishments for the education of girls,
all of which are managed from the mother house at
Yilla Maria. The religious community was founded
by Marguerite Bourgeois, a lady who, in the year
1653, gave all her property to the poor, and came out
to Canada with Maisonneuve on his second voyage,
to establish an institution for the education of thf;
female children of the French settlers and of the sav-
age nations of Canada. She was not born of a noble
family, but she had in an eminent degree that nobility
which no written parchments can bestow, flowing
from a heart humble, and yet brave, earnestly religi-
ous, and yet with a qw'ei enthusiasm. " To this day,"
says Parkman, " in crowded schoolrooms of Montreal
and Quebec, fit monuments of her unobtrusive virtue,
her successors instruct the children of the poor, and
embalm the pleasant memory of Marguerite Bour-
geois. In the martial figure of Maisonneuve and the
fair form of this gentle nun we find the two heroes of
Montreal."
Until recently the mother house of this community
was in St. Jean Baptiste Street. The chapel is entered
by an archway from Notre Dame street. It was built
218 CITY OF MONTREAL.
in 1856 and dedicated to Notre Dame de Piti^, upon
the site of a church erected in 1G93 by Marguerite
Bourgeois. The buildings around in the court and
those in St. Jean Baptiste street have a very vener-
able air. On the right, in the gateway, an old chapel
still exists, built under the eve of the i^ood Sister her-
8elf. F^rom this place for 200 years the movements
of the whole community were regulated. Now Villa
Maria is the centre of their work. It was formerly
the residence of theGoveniors-General. The old house
still stands, but the Sisters have added immense piles
of buildings to it. The convent proper is built to
receive 1,000 nuns ; for, this being the mother house,
the Sisters come from all parts to make their annual
" retreat " here. The other buildings are for the board-
ing school. The church which has just been com-
pleted ought to be visited. The interior is not yet
decorated, but the architecture is a credit to the city.
It is in the Byzantine style. The dome over the high
altar is 1G5 feet high and 34 feet in diameter. The
side towers are 160 feet hii^-h. The church is 300
feet long and the high altar stands midway in the
nave, dividing the space reserved for the nuns from
that allotted to the public. A beautiful rose window
adorns the church and the proportions of the separate
parts are most hai-monious. The decoration is to be
in fresco and it is expected that Notre Dame de
Lourdes will be excelled. What a theme for a Cana-
dian artist is the life of Marguerite Bourgeois in which
the supernatural interweaves with glowing threads the
devoted life of the quiet nun ! Niches lor statuary
abound upon the ftigade which is striking and in good
proportion. The site of the buildings is the tinest
about Montreal.
Some idea of the extent of the operations of these
ladies may be given when we say that they have 86
establishments. Besides their establishments in
Canada proper, they have houses in Nova Scotia,
Cape Breton, and Prince Edward Island; in Connec-
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 219
ticut, in Massachusetts, in Maine, in YernK^nt, and in
Illinois. They number in all 783 professed sisters, 8*7
novices and 50 postulants, and have at the present
time 19,026 pupils under their care.
The Religious of the Sacred Heart.— These ladies^
have three establishments on the island. The chief
one is at Sault-au-Eecollet, upon a beautiful site on
the Rivi^re-des-Prairies, about nine miles from the
city, and contains 148 boarders. A secondary school
is attached with 40 pupils. In the city they have a
select school for young ladies with 75 pupils at No.
1156 St. Catherine street. This order was founded
in France in the year 1800 by Sophie Barat, born of
very poor parents, but who became in early youth a
prodigy of learning. The home of the order is at
Amiens.
The Hochelaga Convent.— This institution is carried
on by the sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and
Mary, a religious order which has thirty-four branch
establishments in the United States and Canada, and
teaches between eight and nine thousand children.
This is the mother house of the order. It is beauti-
fully situated on the river St. Lawrence about one
mile below the city, and is a very large and commo-
dious building, with a handsome cut stone fa9ade.
The number of young lady boarders is over 200, from
all parts of the United States and Canada. In a
branch establishment at St. Jean Baptiste village the
sisters have 400 pupils in a parochial and select
school.
All branches of education are taught in English and
French. Special facilities for learning French are
provided, and the department of needle-work and
domestic training recive special attention. A museum
with a good ornithological collection is attached to
the convent.
In the preceding notices, reference is made only
220 CITY OF MONTREAL.
to the chief ])ublic educational institutions. There
are many excellent proprietary schools both for day
scholars and boarders, to the latter of which pupils
fi'om all parts of the Dominion and from the United
States are sent.
Veterinary College.— Montreal possesses a very im-
portant school of Veterinary Science, imder the care
of Principal MclCachran. Students from a G;reat dis-
tance come to attend this college. It has six profes-
sors besides the Principal.
Board of Arts Schools.— Tn addition to the educa-
tional institutions already alluded to, the free even-
ing drawing classes conducted under the direction of
the Council of Arts and Manufactures of the Province
of Quebec, are worthy of note. These classes are
entirely free and are intended chiefly for artisans and
apprentices. Instruction is given in free-hand and
object drawing and designing, and also in mechanical
and architectural drawing and modelling. Litho-
graphy and wood-engraving are also taught. The
classes are opened during the winter months, not
only in Montreal, but in all the larger towns of the
province. There were 938 pupils last year under
instruction thi-oughout Quebec. The Montreal school
has 322 pjupils.
SCIENCE, LITERATURE AND ARTS.
Libraries — The population of Montreal is not suffi-
ciently homogeneous to make a large general library
possible. McGill College possesses 25,000 volumes in
general literature. The best feature in this library is
the English historical section, which is mainly the
gift of Mr. Peter Eedpath. The Medical Faculty has
a separate library of f, 000 volumes.
In Law, the Advocates' Library in the Court House
has about 15,000 volumes, and is especially full in the
LIBRARIES. 221
department of French Civil Law. In Theology, the
Presbyterian College has 10,000 volumes of well
selected and useful works for the training of students
and the use of the y)rofessors. The complete patro-
logy of the Abb^ Migne is in this collection. The
Jesuits have three libraries in 8t. Mar^^'s College.
One of 10,000 is the ])rivate library of the Jesuit
fathers. The library for the use of the students con-
tains 3,000 volumes. In the hall of the Union
Catholique, below the Jesuits' Church, there is a
public library and reading-room, containing 20,000
volumes in French and English, and a selection of
periodical literature.
The Seminary of St. Sulpice has a large library in
the old building on Notre l)ame street. At the college
in Sherbrooke street is the theological library of the
Grand Seminary, and the more general library of the
Little Seminary.
The Mechanics' Institute has a lending library of
popular books. The British Patent Office publications
may be consulted at the Board of Arts and Manufac-
tures.
A public library of reference is much wanted in
Montreal. A student in Roman Catholic theology and
kindred subjects can find all he requires. In Protes-
tant theology the Presbyterian College affords very
good material. In civil law the Advocates' Library is a
useful one. In some departments the McGill Library is
pretty full, but if any one in Montreal wishes to carry
on researches requiring general works of reference he
must go to some other city. The Government pub-
lishes many useful documents for the information of
Parliament, but in Montreal it is nobody's business to
keep them. There is not a set accessible for refer-
ence. Thousands of copies are scattered broadcast
among people who use them for waste paper. It
requires a distressing amount of labour to carry on
the most ordinary inquiries in history, politics, socio-
logy, art, or general literature.
222 CITY OF MONTUEAL.
THE FINE ARTS.
Music— Tlio imisioal taste of Montreal has developed
rapidly dui'in<^ the past ten year.s, alth(>ui;;h, perhapn,
manifestini^ itself less in a puhlic tlian in a private
way. Numerous amateur and ])r()fessi()nal concortH
of good (quality and enjoyahle character are given
every winter. The j)rivatc cultivation of the art han
created a community capable of appreciating the best
music, and of criticising intelligently performances of
a high order, and it invariably lends its hearty sup-
port to all musical efforts worthy of encouragement*
Good choirs are maintained by nearly all the
churches, both Eoman Catholic and Protestant. Pro-
minent among the former are those of Notre Dame,
St. Patrick, the Gesu, and St. James. In the Protes-
tant churches particular attention is given to music
at St. James the Apostle's, St. John the Evangelist's,
Christ Church Cathedral, and at the St. James street
Wesleyan Methodist, the American Presbyterian,
and St. Andrew's Churches.
Music is also taught at the public schools, and
special care is bestowed upon it at all the private
schools and seminaries.
There are several musical societies in the city, but
only two, the Mendelssohn Choir and Philharmonic
Society, are regularly organized, and give public per-
formances at stated times. The former of these, al-
though the smaller society, has precedence from age,
it having been in existence over nineteen years. It
is a private organization, composed entirely of
amateurs, and has a membership of about ninety
selected voices. Its performances consist chiefly of
lighter choral works and unaccompanied part-songs, in
which latter style of singing the choir has attained to
a high degree of excellence.
The Philharmonic Society was established four
years ago. During that time it has met and over-
come many difficulties (mostly financial), and is now
FINE ARTS. 223
ia a position whore its ultimate siiccesft can hardly bo
doubted. The chorus nundjors 200, and three con-
certs are i^iven every winter. Since its torniation the
Hociety has ])ertbrnie(l in a satisfactory and ai-tistic
manner scvei*al of the ^reat choral woi'ks of Handel,
Haydn, and Mendelssohn, and lightei' woi'ks by losa
noted composers. It is assisted by La Socit'td den
Symphonistes, an orchestral association of forty
pieces oi'ijanized some three years since, but now dis-
banded, although capable of being called together at
whort notice wlicn required.
The church organs of Montreal are worthy of
ttpecial mention, several tine instruments having been
placed in dittcrent churches in the city. The best are
that in the English Cathedral, built by Hill, of Lon-
don, England, and those by Warren & Sons, of
Toronto (formerly of this city), in the American
Presbyterian Church, in St. Andrew's, St. Greorge's,
St. James the Apostle's, Trinity, Emmanuel, Erskine,
and St. Paul's.
Fainting and Sculpture. —Good works in these arts
are not plentiful in this city. The Board of Arts and
Manufactures carry on a number of schools for tech-
nical Art, and progress is being made in that direc-
sion, but the citizens so far have not expended much
upon really first-class works for the adornment of
their houses. Still there are a few tine paintings in
private hands. The paintings in the Eoman Catholic
churches are, for the most part, singularly poor, and
the stranger will look in vain for any treasure of art
corresponding to the importance of the buildings.
Notre Dame de Lourdes (see page 184) is the excep-
tion to this general rule. Much more attention has
of late been drawn in this direction by the ettbrts of
The Art Association.— This institution was incorpor-
ated in the year 1860 under the presidency of the late
Eishop Fulford, who, during his lifetime, took a deep
224 CITY OF MONTREAL.
interest in its proceedings. Its operations were car-
ried on by a council of gentlemen interested in art
matters, and for many years, under their auspices,
exhibitions were held with much success. The late
Mr. Benaiah Gibb, a member of the council, died in
1877, and bequeathed to the Association the lot of
land at the corner of St. Catherine street and Phillips'
square, upon which the gallery is erected, and $8,000
in money. He left also his own collection of ninety
paintings and some bronzes as a nucleus for a gallery.
To these, some works of art have been added by tlie
liberality of citizens. The gallery is open every
week day from ten until four on payment of 25
cents. Members paying an annual subscription of
live dollars, and their families, are admitted free. Be-
sides the pei'manent exhibition, special exhibitions of
paintings, engravings, ceramics, and other works of
art are periodically held. Lectures on kindred sub-
jects are provided, and art classes are carried on
under competent teachers. An art reading room, to
form the nucleus of an art library, has been recently
started in this building.
The Decorative Art Society.— The rooms of this
Society are on Phillips' Square. They ai'e conducted
on the same principle as the well known institutions
of the same name in New York and London. They
afford a means of interchange and disposal of objects
of art in needle-work, ceramics, painting on satin,
and objects of vertk generally. They are conducted
by a committee of ladies.
Science.— The scientific interest of Montreal centres
around two institutions — the McGill College and the
Natural History Society. We have already referred
to the former under the head of Education (page 202),
and can only repeat here that the Faculty of Applied
Science has 10 professors and 4-i students, and is well
2:)rovided with laboratories and models. The degree
of Bachelor of Science is granted in this Faculty.
AMUSEMENTS. 225
The Natural History Society oceupie'^ a Iraildinc; of its
own on University street. It date.^ from the year
1827, when it was tirst organized. The Museum was
commenced in 1832 in a building in Little St. James
street, and the Society removed in 1858 to its present
building. The ground tlat is occupied by the lecture
room and library. On the second flat is an excellent
and extensive natural history collection, and a collec-
tion of interesting objects connected with Canadian
history and the native races of Canada. Besides the
regular meetings of the society, courses of lectures
are given during the winter on scientific subjects.
The transactions of the society are published in a
quarterly magazine. In it all the papers of interest
which are read at the monthly meetings appear.
AMUSEMENTS.
The young people of Montreal have many amuse-
ments, mostly of an out-door character, both in sum-
mer and winter. Middle-aged and elderly people are
not amused any more in Montreal than elsewhere,
They are occupied generally in active business cares,
lively political discussions, or in carrying on the
numerous churches and benevolent institutions previ-
ously described. Some wise ones, however, practise
golf in summer and curling in winter, as distractions.
Lacrosse.— This is the national game of Canada,
practised by the Indians long previous to the arrival
of Europeans. It was by means of a match between
the Sacs and Ojibways that the savages obtained pos-
session of Fort Michilimakinac, at the outbreak of
Pontiac's war in 1763. There are nine lacrosse clubs
in Montreal. No regular times are set apart for
games, but the clubs usually practise early in the
morning on the grounds of the Montreal Lacrosse
Club in Sherbrooke street west, or in those of the
15
226 CITY OF MONTREAL.
Shamrock Club on St. Ciitherine street west. Matches
are frequently played on Saturday afternoons.
Cricket.— The Montreal Cricket Club is the only
one in the city. Its grounds are on St. Catherine
street west.
Base-Ball— The St. Lawrence Base-Ball Club is the
only one. This game is not much played.
Foot-Ball.— This is a very popular game. There
are three very large clubs. One of them is formed of
University students.
Boating.— -This amusement cannot be caiTied on
opposite the city on account of the rapidity of the
current. The young men of Montreal who indulge
in it resort to Lachine or Longueuil. There are
several clubs — the Longueuil Boating Club, the
Lachine Boating Club, and the Grand Trunk Boating
Club, all composed of Montrealers.
The Bicycle Club.— One club of about seventy mem-
bers have devoted themselves to this amusement,
and occasionally make processions through the streets
and excursions in the countrv.
Golf.— There is a very large Grolf Club, which meets
at the grounds and club house on Fletcher's field.
t>'
Hunting.— Montreal can boast of the largest and
best conducted hunting establishment on this conti-
nent. The kennels of the Montreal Hunt Club are
situated on Colborne Avenue, near Sherbrooke street,
and cover three and a half acres of land. They well
deserve a visit because they contain the very latest
and most complete conveniences for the lodging,
feeding, and general comfort and happiness of horses
and hounds. The establishment consists of one hunts-
AMUSEMENTS. 22*7
man, two whippers, a kennel hunt^sman and an earth-
stopper. Stables are provicl i for the servants*
horses and for the horses of members of the club who
may come to Montreal during the hunting season.
There are forty couples of dogs in the kennels, includ-
ing the pack which the club purchased from the
the Earl of Huntingdon. Yerv comfortable and con-
venient club-rooms are erected for the use of members,
wiio now number over eighty, and among whom are
very many of the ^llte of Montreal society. The
regular hunting season commences in September,
when the hounds meet on Tuesdays, Thursdays and
Saturdays at 11 o'clock, until December. Only the
wild fox is hunted by the club. Drags and bagmen
have no place in its arrangements. The club is the
oldest in America. The present chief huntsman has
been for 26 years in charge of the pack. The meets
are attended by a brilliant assemblage of well
mounted ladies and gentlemen. The scarlet coats and
trim appointments of the members on a field day, and
the excitement of a burst across the country make a
^' meet " one of the sights of Montreal.
Racket.— This game is carried on by a club of forty
members. The court is in St. George street, near
Yitre street.
Lawn Tennis is very popular. There is a club of
about sixty members (ladies and gentlemen), which
meets in summer at the grounds of the Montreal
Lacrosse Club every week day except Saturday, at 3
P.M. In winter the meetings are at the fiacket
Court.
Racing.— A turf club, under the name of " The Pro-
vince of Quebec Turf Club," has recently been
organized in Montreal. At present it consists of 63
members, and has leased the race course at Blue
Eonnets for its meetings ; but the club hopes soon to
228 CITY OF MONTREAL.
have a better track and to erect suitable buildings.
Upon days of meeting, the Grand Trunk Eailway
trains stop at the foot of the hill near the course.
Many of the members of the club are leading citizens
of Montreal, and they hope to improve the breed of
horses in the countrv, as well as to amuse themselves,
by carrying on this sport in a fair and honest way.
At Lepine Park, below Hochelaga, is a course for
trotting of a rougher sort.
Gymnasium, on Mansfield street. This was built
originally for a gymnasium alone, but it was not very
successful. A few years ago the Mercantile Library
Association, then in a moribund state, was incorpor-
ated with the Gj^mnasium Association. Afterwards
the Montreal Lacrosse Club, the Montreal Snowshoe
Club, and the Bicycle Club were successively absorbed
into a larger body called the " Montreal Amateur
Athletic Association," which has its head-quarters in
this building. It is an excellent institution and very
useful to young men. There is a good gymnasium,
l^rovided with a competent teacher, a bowling-alley,
billiard tables, a shooting-gallery, a library (the old
one of the Mercantile Library, quite sufficient for the
demand), baths and a reading-room. There is no
bar, nor any thing of the sort under a more euphoni-
ous name, so that parents are quite satisfied to have
their sons frequent the building.
The Victoria Skating Rink.— Montreal possesses the
largest and best skating rink in Europe or America.
The Grand Duke Alexis, Avho skated there during his
visit to Canada, pronounced it better than anything
of the kind in Eussia. The club consists of over
2,000 members. The rink is a brick building with a
roof of one semi-circular span 50 feet high at the
centre. It is 260 feet long and 100 feet wide. A
promenade extends around the ice, and in the front
of the building are dressing and cloak rooms, and
AMUSEMENTS. 229
offices. Besides the music stand, there is a gallery
for spectators ; for here on a gala night may be seen the
youth and beauty of both sexes. Fancy dress balls are
held on the ice, and one of the most brilliant sights
which the city affords is presented on such an occa-
sion. The rink is brightly lit, a band plays in the
orchestra, and the gay dresses and swift movements
of the skaters combine to make the scene like a peep
into fairyland. During the winter, rinks are im-
provised elsewhere, upon smooth places on the river
or canal, and upon vacant lots throughout the city.
Curling.— A very favourite amusement in winter
among the middle-aged men of the city. The climate
of Montreal is favourable to the production of very
excellent ice for the purpose, and the Scotchmen who
settled here instituted their national game in Mon-
treal as early as 1807. In that year the Montreal
Curling Club was founded. The Marquis of Lome is
patron of this club. The rink is at J^o. 1450 St.
Catherine street. The Thistle Club was founded in
1842. Its rink is in St. Monique street. The Cale-
donia Curling Club was founded in 1850, and its
rink is at the corner of St. Catherine and Mountain
streets.
Tobogganing.— -The toboggan is a long sled, without
runners, which lies flat upon the snow. It is made
of thin ash, and is usually 8 feet long by 18 inches
wide, and curled up at the prow. Being made to
glide upon the surface of light t^now, it was used in
winter time, and is still used, by the Indians, for trans-
porting their effects ; for a man u])on snowshoes drag-
ging a toboggan can go across country and take with
him an astonishing quantity of stuff. Upon this
primitive conveyance it is the delight of youthful
Montrealers of both sexes to slide down hills. The
lady sits in front and the gentleman sits or kneels be-
hind and steers. The course is soon over, but the
230 CITY OF MONTREAL.
proce??s of dra<xgin£>: the vehicle up-hill i>^ enlivened by
conversation, and is seldom tedious. There are four
chibs devoted to this amusement. Members are ad-
mitted by ballot and identified by badges of various
colours. Initial velocity is given by artificial erec-
tions at the tops of the hills. These rise some 30 feet
and are covered with ice and snow. The tobo<:rfi:an
fro
swoops down like a bird, and the dazed novice, to
quote the words of an American editor at last winter's
carnival, feels as if he were swallowing a whirlwind.
The slides on gala nights are lit up with torches ; but
bright moonlight nights are preferred for this recrea-
tion. It is a very pretty sight to see the figures of
the sliders against the white snow gliding swiftly
down the hill or sociably trudging up again, dragging
their toboggans.
Snow-shoeing. — A number of clubs are devoted to
this amusement. They are distinguished by the
colours of their blanket coats. Long tramps are
organized during the season and a strong turn-out of
snow-shoers making a bee line across the country is a
very picturesque sight. It is quite usual in Montreal
for young ladies to walk on snow-shoes in company
with friends. Some of them can walk long distances.
During the carnival of 1884 after the ice palace
had been attacked and carried in the midst of a blaze
of fireworks, the clubs, to the number of 2,000 men
all carrying torches, went upon a tramp over the
Mountain. The sight was one to be remembered.
The long procession of brilliant lights moved up the
steep declivity, alongthesummit of the Mountain, and
down again, zigzaging upon the winding roads like
an immense fiery serpent, while the keen air was
ablaze with rockets and Eoman candles. The Ice-
palace on this occasion was lit up with electric lights.
Chess. — There is one chess club w^hich meets at the
Montreal Gvmnasium in Mansfield street.
AMUSEMENTS. 231
The National Amateur Association.— This organization
consists of deputies from the ditterent athletic clubs
for the purpose of organizing matches and promoting
out-door recreations.
Militia. — Yohmteering is a favourite occupation of
the young men of the city. There are six regiments
of infantry, one troop of cavalry, one company of
engineers, and one battery of horse artillery raised in
the city.
Theatres.— The histoi'v of the Drama in Montreal is
a che(juered one. The clergy, both Catholic and Pro-
testant, have at all times discountenanced it, and the
theatre-going class has also been limited by the differ-
ence of lano:uaiz:e. The first theati*e was built in 1825
in St. Paul street. There are three at present, viz. :
The Academy of Music, on Victoria street, which is
the best house in Montreal, and one where there is
generally very good acting and singing. It is closed
in the summer.
The Crystal Palace Opera House, an improvisation on
Dominion square, is open in summer as an Opera
House and in winter as a Skating Rink. There is
usually a good company acting there during the
season.
Theatre Royal, in Cotte Street. — This theatre is kept
open in summer as well as in winter. It is a small
house, but very good companies sometimes perform
there.
The Queen's Hall is a beautiful and commodious hall
where concerts and lectures are frequently given.
Lectures, however, are not among the weaknesses of
Montrealers. Music they are fond of, for it speaks all
languages and appeals to the whole community.
232
CITY OF MONTREAL.
GEOLOGY OF MONTREAL AND ITS ENVIRONS.
The following sketch, to accompany the annexed
Geological Map of Montreal and its environs, has been
contributed by Dr. Harrington, F.G.S. : —
The region around Montreal is one of much interest
to the geologist. Within a com])aratively limited
area a number of geological formations are repre-
sented, while eru])tive rocks well worthy the study of
the petrologist are to be seen at many points. The
formations with their approximate British equivalents
are included in the tbllowin<i: table : —
Systems. Fop>rATioNS. British Equivalents,
Pleistocene (Post- fSaxicava sand ) r^^ , .^-i^ o^
Pliocene, Cllamp-] Leda clay, | Cly<|«^»f ff;f ',
Silurian,
lBouWe7clay. ] Boulder Cliy or Till.
Lower Kbl;-orberg. Ludlow.
Siluro-Cambrian
(Ordovician.)
f Hudson River
(or Loraine).
TJtica.
Lower Llandovery,
■{ Trenton(includ- \- Caradoc or Bala,
Cambrian.
Norian.
Laurentian.
in<? Birdseve
and Black
River,) Chazy.
r Calciferous.
\ Potsdam.
Llandeilo, Arenig.
{
1 Lower Tremadoc and
/ Lingula flags.
. Hypersthene rock of
Skye, &c.
\Lewisian gneiss, &c.
i of N. AV. Scotland.
I. Laurentian.— A small area occupied by rocks of
the Laurentian sj'stem is shown on the accompany-
ing map, consisting partly of the true or Lower
Laurentian of Sir William' Logan (1) and partly of
the Norian (Upper Laurentian of Logan, (2). Imme-
"X,
:<
:<
GEOLOGY. 233
tliiilely woHtwai'd <>t' IIum, hoyoiul tin* limits of the
map, is the "(iroiivillo rcijjion," which wa.^ ivudend
clasHie })V the rcHcaichi^s of Looan, and which will
ever be a favourite tield for the .study of liaurentian
locks. Its southern limit is easily reaclu'd hy takin*;*
the Canadian Pacific JJailwav to i'alumct Station, <)1
miles, or to I^achute, 4.'> miles from Montreal. North
of the I^ake of Two Mountains, Laui'entian gneisses
occupy an isolated ai ea of 40 or 50 sijuare miles and
constitute a hill of considerable height known us
Mont C^alvaire. This mav he reached hy steamer
from Lachine, the passenger landing at the Indian
village of Oka.
(ieologists wishing for a glimpse of the Noriaii,
may go hy railway to St. Jerome, a pretty village on
the Riviere du Nord, 33 miles from Monti-eal. The
strata exposed here are not typical; hut true norites
may be seen a few miles off, at the village of New
Glasgow. Eetui'ning from this place to Montreal by
way of St. Lin, an opportunity would be afforded of
studying the Potsdam, Calciferous and Chazy for-
mations.
II. Cambrian— Pest ing upon the corrugated and
folded Laui'entian rocks are beds of sandstone (3),
which occupy a considerable area in the valleys of the
St. Lawrence and Ottawa, and wliich wei-e long ago
recognized as equivalent to the Potsdam sandstones of
the New York geologists. They are exposed at many
points, the nearest to Montreal being Ste. Anne at the
upper end of the island, a place accessible either by
Giand Trunk railway or steamboat from Lachine.
Worm burrows (Scolithvs Canadensis) abound in
some of the beds at St. Anne, wiiile at Beauharnois,
south of Lake St. Louis, the curious tracks described
by Owen under the generic name Protichjiites, were
discovered many years ago.
On reference to the map it will be seen that the
Potsdam sandstone forms an anticlinal on either side
23-4 CITY OF MONTREAL.
of which the succee<lin£^ formations appoar, bci»;innin£i^
with the Calciferoiis (4). This is composed mainly of
dolomite and lias a thiclvness of several hundred feet.
It may be seen at St. Anne, where it yields a few char-
acteristic tbssils {LeperdHia Anna, Murclusonia Annay
&c.)
m. Siluro-Cambrian.— Ile^tinic conformably upon the
Calciferous is the Chazy formation which, accordinii;
to some <»:eoloii:ists, may be re^'arded as the tirst mem-
ber of the Siluro-Cambrian (Lower Silurian of Murchi-
son). Accordinii; to Billings, of forty-four organic
forms found in the Calciferous of the Ottawa basin
only two pass up into the Chazy limestone; but the
break here may be regarded as tilled by the Levis
formation which occurs further eastwards. In the
neio-hbourhood of Montreal, the Chazy formation is
about 200 feet thick, and consists mostly of limestone
(often with thin dolomitic layers), though in some
parts of its distribution elsewhere, it is largely repre-
sented by sandstones and shales. Exposui*es may be
seen and fossils collected at many points north of the
city, as for exami)le aloni»: the St. Lawrence road.
Near the Indian village of Caughnawaga, opposite
Lachine, there are extensive quarries which afford
an excellent opportunity for studying the formation.
Amonii; the more common oru'anic remains found in
the neii>:hbourhood of Montreal may be mentioned
RhynclKMella plena, Orthis fjoreal'S, Ortlvs plafys, Malo-
cystites MurcJvsoni, Blastoido-crhius car char icedens, kc.
The Chazy fornxation is succeeded by another series
of limestones constituting the Trenton group, and hav-
ing altogether a thickness of about GOO feet. These
vary considerably in character, being partly black and
bituminous, partly grey and more or less crystalline.
Some of the beds, as shown by Dv. Dawson, are
almost entirely composed of comminuted fragments
of corals, shells, t^c. Oi'ganic remains abound in
many localities, but *he best nli? 3s for the collector to
GEOLOGY. 235
visit arc the qnanics at the Mile Eiul, near the city,
and those near Pointe Claire Station, about lifteen
miles west. At the latter place, which is easily
reached by the Grand Trunk Eailway, the Black
Hiver beds occur and yield many fossils which are
ditt'erent from those obtained at the Mile End. Among
the more important species found at one or other of
these localities may be mentioned : —
Stenopora fibrosa, Chaietes Jycoperdon, Glyptocrinus
ramulosvs, Colnmnaria alreolata, Tetraduwi fibratum,
Ptilodictya acuta, Strophcmena aliernata, Leptana
sericea, Orthis lynx, Lingula quadrala, Cyrtcdonta
Ifuronensis, Murchisonia bellicincta, PUuroiomaria sub-
conica, Conxdaria Trent 07} ensis, Asaphns megistoSy Trinu-
clens concentricvs, Bathyurus extans.
The limestones seen at the Montreal Eeservoir and
at many points in Mount Royal Park, are of Trenton
age, though ditfering in aspect from those seen at the
Mile End quarries, owing, no doubt, to their prox-
imity to the great intrusive mass of the mountain ►
Nearly all the more important buildings in Montreal
are constructed of stone derived chiefly from the
Trenton formation, though in part from the Chazy. It
is also worthy of note that the Trenton formation has
supplied most of the building-stone used in Quebec,
Ottawa and Kingston.
The Utica shales, which succeed the Trenton lime-
stones, may be seen at tiie upper end of St. Helen's
Island, at Motlatt's Island, at Longueuil and other
points opposite Montreal. They are black and bitu-
minous and occasionally fossiliferous. As shown by
the map, there is a considerable area occupied by
rocks of the Hudson Eiver or Loraine formation, but
owing to superficial deposits it is only here and there
that they can be seen. One locality is at the rapids
above Chambly Basin on the Richelieu Eiver. The
beds here are nearly horizontal, and consist of bluish
and grey argillaceous, arenaceous, and calcai-eous
shales. The latter contain organic remains, anionic
236 ' CITY OF MONTREAL.
which muy bo mentioned Amhonychia radiata, Fterinea
demissa, and Modiolopsls modiolaris.
IV. Silurian.— In the rcij^ion under consideration the
eole representative of the Silui-ian system (Upper
Silurian of Murcliison) is to be found in two or three
t<mali outliers of the L«)wer Ilelderberc: formation
which are about two hundred miles distant from the
nearest ])ortion of tlie i>'roup in the State of Xew
York. The principal outlier is on St. Helen's Island,
and consists tor the most part of a breccia holding
fragments of gneiss, sandstone, limestone, &c., im-
bedded in a jntste of dolomite. On the east side of the
island, not far from the north end, there are two
small patches of limestone, holding a number of char-
acteristic Lower Helderberg fossils, and associated
with the breccia in such a manner as to make it seem
probable that both rocks belong to the same period.
Among the organic remains in the limestone are
Favosites Gothlandlca, Orthis ohlata, Strophomeiia rhom-
hoidalis, Rhynchonella ventrlcosa, Pentamerus galeatuSy
P. pseudo-f/aleatus, &c. Both the limestone and brec-
cia are traversed by dykes of a variet}' of nephiline
basalt, which have hardened the limestone and en-
abled it to withstand the denuding agencies which so
nearly obliterated a chapter in the geological history
of this neighbourhood.
V. Pleistocene.—Between the Lower Helderberg and
the Pleistocene of Montreal there is an untilled gap.
The Devonian and Carboniferous are absent, nor
have ,'e any trace of tbrmations belonging to the
Mesozoic or Tertiary. The Pleistocene is, however,
■well represented. It has been divided into : 1. The
Boulder clay ; 2. The Leda clay, and 3. The Saxicava
sand — groups which are not always sharp!}' delined.
The city of Montreal is built upon Pleistocene de-
posits, and good opportunities of studying them, are
oft^n att'orded by excavations ibr cellars, drain>^., &c.
GEOLOGY. 23T
At the Mile End qnarrie-^. north of the city, they are
seen restin*^ upon the Trenton limestones, the sur-
faces of which are often beautifully i»:Iaciate(l. At
this place they yield a number of fossils, includin*^
Mytilns edutis, Astarte Laurentiana, Tellina proxima,
T. grienlancUca. Mya truncata, M. arenarUi, Natica
clausa, Trlchotropis horealis. Numerous fossils have
also been obtained at Logan's Farm, at the Glen (Dor-
chester Avenue), and at other points near to or in the
city. On the west side of the mountain, over Cote
des Neiges village, there is a Pleistocene beach with
marine shells at an elevation of 470 feet above the
sea. Other well marked sea-margins or terraces on
the flanks of the mountain ai-e at heights of 440, 386
and 220 feet, the Montreal reservoir being at the
level of the last. The Sherbrooke street terrace is
about 120 feet above the sea.
On the summit of the mountain, at an elevation of
over 700 feet, and at many other points, there are
boulders of crvstalline rocks which must have been
brought from the Laui*entian regions to the northeast.
Eruptive Rocks.— In the region represented on the
map are a number of eruptive masses, which have
broken through the flat-l^ing Pakeozoic strata, and
constitute hills from the summits of which beautiful
views of the surrounding^ country may be obtained.
The main part of Mount Eoyal is composed of diabase,
in places rich in olivine ; but to the westward of this
there is an im])ortant and more recent mass of nephe-
line-syenite which is well seen at the " Corporation
Quarry," where considerable quantities of the rock
are obtained for use as road-metal. The nepheline-
feyenite has penetrated and tilted up the Chaz}^ lime-
stone, converting it locally into a highly crystalline
marble. Both the eruptive masses of the mountain
and the surrounding stratified rocks are traversed by
numerous dykes, from an eighth of an inch or less in
thickness up to about eight or ten feet, and composed
238 CITY OF MONTREAL.
of a remui-kiible variety of roeks, such as nepheline-
syenite, tescheiiite, nephelinite, nepheliue-basalt, &c.
All the eruptive rocks appear to date from PaUeozoic
time, notwithstandiiiiz; that some of them have no
where else been shown to belong to a period anterior
to the Tertiary.
The eruptive masses east of Montreal, included in
the map, also consist of interesting rocks. Mon-
tarville is composed of olivine-diabase, v/hile Beloeil is
partly augite-syenite, and ])artly nephelinc-syenite.
Koui>:emontaij:ain ismaiulv olivine-diabase. It should
also be stated that the Luureiitian rocks to the
northwest are cut by thick dykes of diabase which,
according to the investigations of Logan, are more
ancient than the Potsdam sandstone.
Minerals.— The following species have been found
at or near Montreal, and chieflv in connection with
the trap-dykes referred to above : Pyrite, Pyrrholite,
Galena, Sphalenite, Magnetite, Titanic Iron Ore,
Limonite, Fluorite, Quartz, Orthoclase, several triclinic
felspars, Augite, Hornblende, Acmite, Chrysolite,
Biotite, Epidote, Xepheline, Sodalite, Cancrinite,
Titanite, Tourmaline, Xatrolite, Analcite, Chabazite,
Heulandite, Calcite, Dolomite, Strontianite, Daw-
sonite, Baryto-celestite. Most of these are unimpor-
tant in so far as the mineral collector is concerned,
being met with only in small quantity or merely as
constituents of the crystalline rocks already noticed.
The most interesting species is Dawsonite, a hydrous
carbonate of aluminium and sodium. It was tirst
found here and subsequently met with in Tuscany.
Yery tine crystals of calcite (nail-headed spar) may
sometimes be found at the Mile End quarries, and
good specimens of augite from loose masses of trap
occurring near the Montreal aqueduct. From dykes of
nepheline-syenite also, good specimens of natrolite
and sodalite have been obtained. Sodalite and can-
crinite occur sparingly at the "Corporation Quarry,"
EXCURSIONS. 239
as well as acmitc, a mineral which is met with at
several other localities.
B. J. H.
The Director of the Geological Survey is preparing
an account of the geology of tha Dominion, to be ac-
companied by a map, geologically coloured, of the
whole of Canada. Notices of the zoology of the
country will no doubt also be given.
EXCURSIONS.
Montreal is situated within easy reach of many
charming places, and to describe them all would
occupy too much space. Around the city there are
some very interesting drives.
The Mount Royal Cemetery.— A very beautiful spot in
the heart of the Mountain, about two miles from the
city, unsurpassed for the advantages of its situation,
and adorned with many beautiful monuments. In
the rear, on the summit of the hill, is an observatory
from whence a view of the whole extent of country to
the noi'th, up to the Laui-entides may be had. From
this point a charming road, winding through the woods,
leads down in rear of the cemetery.
The Catholic Cemetery adjoins the preceding, and is
best visited by the road connecting the two ceme-
teries. It has an extensive outlook towards the
south, as far as the Adirondack range. The sepul-
chral vaults are a striking featui'e of this cemetery.
There is a tine monument erected to the men who
fell in 1837. As they were unsuccessful at the time
they were rebels, but as almost everything they fought
for was, in the sequel, granted, possibly it might be
as precise to call them patriots. Guibord's grave is
near the road leading from the Protestant Cemetery,
240 CITY OF MONTREAL.
and recalls one of the most remarkable conflicts be-
tween Church and State which has occurred in recent
times. The ascent to Mount Calvarv bv the fourteen
Stations of the Cross appeals to the devotion of
Eoman Catholics and interests Protestants as bein^
a feature not met with in the cemeteries usually
visited.
The Drive around the Mountain, usually taken by
tourists. The extensive <i:rounds of the Board of Ai?-
j'iculture and the Exhibitiim buildini; of the Board of
Arts and Manufactures (see pp. 178, 220) may be seen
in this drive upon the right, not far from tlie entrance
to the Protestant Cemetery. The grounds occupy a
space of about 50 acres ; a portion being in the
Mount Royal Park and connected by means of a sub-
stantial bridge with the Exhibition Grounds proper.
Among the principal buildings on the grounds may
be mentioned the Crystal Palace, for the display of
manufactured articles ; the Carriage Building ; the
Boot and Grain Building, and the Machinery Hall
pj'ovided with a stationary engine and shafting.
The Agricultural Implement Building (for the dis-
pLiy of agricultural machinery in motion) is situated
on the Park side ; it consists of four buildings with
extensive connecting corridors. The Exhibitions for
the past two or three years have been remarkably
successful and have attracted immense crowds. An
Exhibition has now come to be regarded as an annual
institution, ttie date fixed is usually towards the end
of September in each yar.
The road passes thiough the village of Cote-des-
iNeiges, and on the left, upon the south-west slope of
the little mountain, the Convent of Yilla Maria (see
page 217) is passed. On the nght, at the summit of
the road, is the Church of Notre Dame de Grace.
Sault-au-Recollet.— There is an intei'esting drive to
what is called the '' back river," or the Piviere-des-
EXCURSIONS. 241
Prairies at Sault-aii-Eeeollet — a ra])id so called after
Nicholas Viel, a Recollet priest, who was drowned
here by Huron Indians in 1020. The timber rafts for
Quebec pass down this river, and liere is situated the
Mother House of the oi'der of the Sacred Heart (see
p. 219).
Lachine.— A drive to this village, going out by
the upper i*oad and returning by the lower one, will
amply repay a visitor. The scenery is beautiful, and
all along the lower road the rapids (Sault St. Louis)
are seen to great advantage. Near the head of the
aqueduct still stards the house built by Robert
Cavelier de La Salle. Here was his seigniory before
he set out on the western explorations which ruined
him, but made his name famous. The aqueduct and
wheel-house (see p. 170) can be seen en route.
The Lachine Rapids.— Tourists w^ho have not come
down the St. Lawrence by steamer, may see one of
the most important rapids on the river by taking a
train at the Bonaventure depot for Lachine, and there
embarking upon one of the small steamers to Mon-
treal. A train leaves about 7 a. m. and one at 5 p.m.
to connect with the steamers coming down the
river. Opposite Lachine is the village of Caughna-
waga, more picturesque at a distance than upon near
approach. Here are settled, upon a reservation, a
remnant of the once powerful Mohawk tribe of Iro-
quois, which for so many years was the terror of the
French colonists. This settlement was commenced
under the French regime by those Indians of the Iro-
quois tribes who fell under the influence of the French
missionaries. They espoused the French cause in the
colonial wars, but their aid was always distrusted
when they were accing against their own country-
men. It was here that those horrible raids upon
Deerfield, Haverhill and Schenectady were planned,
which were palliated but not justified by the conduct
16
242 CITY OF MONTREAL.
of Massachusetts towards the Abenakis. The Indians
do not take kindl}' to agTioultiire, but prefer the free
and roving life of voyageurs and guides.
The village of Lower Lachine is seen on the left, as
the steamer enters the long and turbulent lapids of
the Sault St. Louis. The river is contracted and
obstructed by islands, and trap dykes crossing the
softer limestone rocks, make by their uneven wear
a very broken bottom. The fall of the river is also
considerable and the channel tortuous, all which cir-
cumstances combined cause this rapid to be moi*e
feared than any of the others. There is little dan-
ger, however, to passengers. Formerly the insur-
ance companies compelled the steamers to stop at
Caughnawaga for a pilot, but now that is not consid-
ered necessary. As the steamer enters the rapids the
engines are slowed, retaining a sufficient speed to give
steerage way, and, rushing along w^th the added
speed of the swift current, the boat soon begins to
labour among the breakers and eddies. The passen-
gers grow excited at the apparently narrow escapes,
as the steamer seems almost to touch rock after rock,
and dips her prow into the eddies, while the turbu-
lent waters throw their spray over the deck. On the
right, as the tourist passes through the whirl of
waters, the appropriately named Devil's Island is
passed, and upon the left is Isle-au-Heron. The aque-
duct of the Montreal Water Works may be seen on
the main land on the left. On the right the rock}^
shelving shore of the Indian i-eserve runs far into the
river. But at such a pace the course is soon run.
The boat, gliding into quieter water, opens up the
shallow and still bay of Laprairie, and the long and
stately front of the city of Montreal, the grey lime-
stone, and the bright tinned roofs of the buildings
relieved with the beautiful back-ground of the green
Mount Eoyal. Over head is the Victoria Bridge, and
down the river is the clustered foliage of the groves
on the Island of St. Helen. After a long circuit to
EXCURSIONS. 243
avoid a shoal in the centre of the river, the boat stops
at the mouth of the Laehine canal.
Beloeil.— There is no prettier spot in the Province
of Quebec than the Iroquois House, a hotel built half-
way up the side of Belojil mountain. The tourist may
take an early train on the Grand Trunk Eailway, and
must stop at the St. Hilaire (not Beloeil) station. On
getting out he will find conveyances to take him up
to the hotel, which is situated high up in the shady
recesses of Mont Beloeil. After resting at the hotel
he can visit the beautiful lake close at hand, and pro-
ceed to the summit of the mountain, where he will
obtain such an extended view of beautiful scenery as
would repay a walk ten times as long. Eeturning,
any evening train is available, but the better plan is
to stay over night at the hotel, which is very com-
fortable.
TO QUEBEC.
Montreal to Quebec by Steamer.— This is by far the
most pleasant mode of making the joui'ney. The
steamers, which leave the Richelieu Company's wharf
at V p. m., are among the finest and most comfortable
boats to be found on American waters. There is no
day line, and shortly after his departure the tourist
will hear the call for supper, which is provided in a
most satisfactory manner. He will, if disposed for
sleep, then be able to retire to a clean and comfort-
able state-room. As the summer nights of these
northern latitudes are short, the traveller will see by
daylight some of the best parts of the river if he will
rise early enough.
A good view of the city can be had when leaving,
from the steamer's deck. Mi\ Howells thus describes
it : — " For miles the water front of Montreal is
superbly faced with quays and locks of solid stone
masonry, and thus she is clean and beautiful to the
244 '^•ITY OF MONTREAL.
very feet. Stately piles of architecture, instead of
the old tumble-down warehouses that dishonour the
waterside in most cities, rise from the broad wharves j
behind these spring the twin towers of Notre Dame,
and the steeples of the other churches above the
roofs." The steamer glides swiftly down the Current
8t. Mary, leaving 8t. Helen's Island on the right, a
beautifully wooded spot, worthily named after flelen
Boulle, the youthful and lovely lady, wife of Champ-
lain, who charmed the wild Huron savages in l(j20
with her gentle manners. Still farther to the I'ight
opens out Longueuil Bay, with the village of
Longueuil in the distance, the setting sun brightening
the tinned steeple and steep roof of the parish church.
This is the characteristic picture of the Lower St.
Lawrence. Parish after ]»arish on both shores, at
intervals of about nine miles, each with its church
and presbytcre substantially built after a fashion seen
still in Normandy, with steep pitched roof and nar-
row windows, but all covered with the bright tinned
plates which only the dry climate of Canada can \)yq-
serve from rust.
The river flows through a wide alluvial plain. Far
on the north are the Laurentian Mountains, and on
the south the Green Mountains. At Quebec they
approach the river, giving boldness to the scenery,
but all our j^resent course is quiet and monotonous —
the river-banks worn steep by the washing of the
current on one side, while long points of alluvial mat-
ter are deposited on the other by eddies and pools of
quiet water, the chuj-ches and the clustered villages
around them on the level plateau above the stream,
and the long stretches of arable land, scarcely broken
by trees, save where the Lombardy poplar rears its
stiff and formal shape against the sky.
After passing Longueuil ; Boucherville, Yarennes
and Yercheres, follow in quick succession on the right,
and Longue Pointe, Point-aux-Trembles, and Pout-de-
risle on the left. Here the remaining waters of the
EXcuRsroNs. 245
Ottawa join their flood to the St. Lawrenco, hiding
their union anion<^ a maze of h)W wooded iwhinds.
Still on the left follow L'A-^siimption, at the mouth of
tJie Achigan and Assumption rivers, Lavaltrie and
Berthier. Opposite Berthiei-, on the light hank, the
Eiehelieu falls into the St. Lnwi'cnee, rlraining lakes
Champlain and George, and all the country north of
the Hudson valley. On the eastern bank of theRiciie-
lieu, the ohl Riviere-des-Iro^piois, stands Sorel. Vain
attempts have been made to call this place William
Henry, hut the name of the Captain of the Carignan
regiment, who built the old Fort Richelieu here iu
1665, as a check to Iroquois incursions, yet clings to
the spot.
Sorel is a place of consideraule trade. Most of the
numerous steamboats plying on the river have been
built here, and large numbers of river-craft in the
Whitehall trade are owned here.
Shortly after leaving Sorel the river opens out to a
width of nine miles, and for twenty-tive miles the boat
passes through Lake St. Peter. Here are the flats
through which the ship channel has been dredged (see
p, 159). The St. Francis river falls in on the right, and
the Maskinonge on the left. The former is an import-
ant stream, which does much useful work in the mills
of the Eastern Townships before it gives up its indivi-
dual existence. There is nothing to be seen upon
Lake St. Peter. In spreading out to such an expanse
the water becomes very shallow, save in the channel.
The tourist may perhaps overtake some timber-raft,
covering acres in extent, lighted up by fires, and
navigated by men with bronzed faces and red shirts,
whose forms, as they flit across the unearthly glai-e,
remind one of Dante's great poem ; or perhaps he
may meet some ocean steamer, her black bulk dimly
discerned in the darkness, far astray in these fresh
waters from her home on the blue Atlantic. The
most indefatigable sight-seer would, however, do well
246 CITY OF MONTREAL.
to retire to his state-room immediately after leaving
Sorel, and rise the earlier in the morning.
Three Rivers, is the next stopping place. The tra-
veller will sjurely know when the boat arrives by the
unearthly din of the steam-whistle, and the stamping
overhead and shouting which seems so utterly unne-
cessary to any one who does not intend to stop there,
but is merely anxious for a little sleep. It is the third
city of importance on the liver, and w^as the second
founded by the early colonists. The Eiver St. Mau-
rice falls in here from the north, and, being divided at
its mouth by two islands, the three channels give the
town its name. The St. Maurice is one of the most
important tributaries of the St. Lawrence; running
a course of about 300 miles, and recenungmany large
tributaries before joining its waters with the St. Law-
rence . It is a very important lumbering stream be-
cause of the immense area it drains. At twenty-one
miles distance from Three Elvers are the Falls of Sha-
wanegan. There are many falls and rapids on the
lower St. Maurice, but none to compare mi grandeur
with Shawanegan. Here the river, suddenly bend'ng
and divided by a rocky island into two channels, tails
nearly 150 feet perpendicularly, and dashes violently
against a wall of opposing rock, whence the united
stream forces its way through a channel not more
than thirty yards wide . There can be no more strik-
ing sc^ne in its savage grandeur than this fall, and a
visit '7.U repay the enterprising tourist. Above the
falls Ub Jrand Piles a tug steamer runs as far as La
Tuque, an old fur-trading post. In the old French
days, before Montreal was strong enough to keep the
Iroquois at a distance, Three Elvers was the most im-
portant post on the river for traders ; but it declined
in importance as Montreal grew. There is a consider-
able export of lumber from this point. The iron of the
St. Maurice forges is made from large deposits of
bog iron ore found in this vicinity ; they are not yet
EXCURSIONS. 247
exhausted, although they have been worked for over
150 years.
After leaving Three Elvers the steamer stops but
once more before arriving at Quebec, and that is at
Batiscan, a village near the mouth of a river of the
same name ; then is passed, from the north, the River
St. Anne. About twenty miles from St. Anne occur
rapids and obstructions in the St. Lawrence, called
the Richelieu Rapids. Large ships usually have to
wait for high tide before passing here, as the rocks
are dangerotis. A few miles from these rapids the
Jacques Cartier falls in, still from the north, for the
St. Lawrence is a northern river, and draws its unfail-
ing waters mostly from the north. From this point
the scenery loses its flatnesss, and the traveller will be
repaid for an early morning start. The steamer
swiftly passes village after village, and in the distance
the mountains around Quebec can be seen, blue
and dim, the sun rising behind them. On the right,
near the city, is the mouth of the Chaudiere River, on
the left is Cap Rouge, and a little farther on is Sillery,
close under which is Wolfe's Cove, where the landing^
was etfected in 1759 which changed the destinies of
Canada. Gliding on past the maze of ships, and rafts,
and booms, and deals, the steamer sweeps close under
Cape Diamond, into the matchless basin shadowed by
precipitous clilt's, from which Quebec, the Queen of
the St. Lawrence, looks down in all her quaint beauty
upon a scene unequalled in the new world.
And now thf steam-whistle, its piercing shrillness,
heightened by the i everberation from the opposite
cliffs of Point Levis, rouses all sleepy-headed passen-
gers, and summons from the heights that heteroge-
neous congeries of vehicles in which Quebec rejoices.
The traveller may, however, take one of the hotel
omnibuses in waiting; but let him not leave the city
without a ride in a '* caleche." The world looks so
strange from a caliche, and Quebec, from such a
point of view, looks, if possible, qtiainter than it really
248 CITY OF MONTREAL.
is. If the tourist be, unfoi'tunately, thin and of light
weight, anxiety lest he be shot out may disturb his
mind ; but still let him hold on bravely, he may not
have another chance. The caleche is fast disappear-
ing, its last home is here, and soon it will depart
whither so many good things have already gone.
TO OTTAWA.
To Ottawa by Railway.— The Pacific Eailway has
purchased the portion of the foi mer Q., M., O. k O.
Eailway between Montreal and Ottawa as the first
link in the great system uniting the 8t. Lawrence
with the Pacific Ocean. Trains leave the Dalhousie
Square depot. The first stop is at
Sault-au-RecoUet,— where the train crosses the Eiviere-
des-Prairies or Back Eiver. The Convent of the
Sacred Heart is on the right before pa>sing the bi'idge.
A fine view of the rapids may be had from both sides
of the cars. The road now crosses Isle Jesus, a very
fertile island 21 miles long and 6 miles wide. After
passing St. Martin Station it arrives at
St. Martin Junction..— Here the North Shore Eailway
to Quebec diverges. The next station is
Ste. Rose.— At this point the train crosses the north-
ernmost mouth of the Ottawa river and passes on to
the main land. A very beautiful view may be had
from the cars up and down the river, which seems to
have no special name, and is called the Eiviere St.
Jean, or Jesus, or Terrebonne liver, and sometimes
simply the Ottawa. The road now lies across a level
uninteresting plain, underlaid by the Potsdam sand-
stone and the Calciferous formation. At
Ste. Therese, a road branches off for St. Jerome,
another for St. Lin, and another for St. Eustache. A
EXCURSIONS. 249
very large Roman Calholic College is situated here and
may be seen from the train. The following stations
are St. Augustin, 8te. Scholastique (which is the county
town), St. Ilermas and
Lachute, a large town upon the falls of the Eiviere
du Nord containing a number of manufactories. It is
the county town of Argenteuil . The river skirts the
Laurentian hills and the course of the train, after
crossing it, lies between the Ottawa and the base of
that range. The next station is St. Philippe; then,
leaving all the saints behind, the train strikes for the
main Ottawa river wdiich is reached at
Grenville.— This is a very good point from which to
examine the Laurentian country. The mountains
abound in minerals such as mica, graphite and
apatite, and the bands of crystalline limestone near
here are favourite fields for obtaining specimens of
the rarer minerals. At Grenville the Longue Sault
rapid commences, which interrupts the navigation of
the Ottawa ; and here is also the upper end of the
Carillon and Grenville canal. At the foot of the
rapid Dollard and his comp^anions, in the year 1660,
saved Canada by the sacrifice of their lives.
Close to Carillon, at the foot of the canal, is
this ThermopyltT) of French Canada, but DoUard's
name is commemorated in Yi lie-Marie only by a
contemptible little lane. Passengers for Caledonia
Springs get out here. After leaving Grenville the
Calumet river, a small stream, is crossed, and, a
mile i^nd a half further on, the River Rouge, a tur-
bulent stream, down which a good deal of lumber is
floated. The train arrives next at Montebello — the
residence of the late Hon. Louis Joseph Papineau, the
O'Connell of Canada, from whom the next station,
Papineauville, derives its inharmonious name. The
road runs through a rough and uninteresting country
for the rest of the distance. To the scientific tourist,
250 CITY OF 3fONTREAL.
however, the ^^ound is classic, for it is at Cote St,
Pierre, in the seigniory of Petite Nation, 20 miles from
Montebello, where the Eozoon Canadense is found in
its least altered and most characteristic condition.
At North Nation Mills the North Nation river, a
lumbering stream, is crossed. Then follow the sta-
tions of Thurso and Eockland — next follows.
Buckingham, upon the Eivierc-au-Lievre a singu-
larly rapid and turbulent stream which rushes, rather
than flows, throuii^h a o-ood huntini»; count rv but a bad
one for settling in. The river falls 70 feet in a very
few miles, and consequently there are several large
lumber establishments here. Buckingham is the
centre of the apatite and the plumbago mining coun-
try. Eleven miles above Buckingham and accessible
by steamer from it is the Emerald mine, where the
apatite may be seen in masses. The next stations
are L'Ange Gardien and Templeton, then the Gati-
neau river is crossed. This is a very large and im-
portant lumbering river 300 miles in length, and a
chief tributary of the Ottawa. The next station is
Hull, opposite Ottawa. A fine view of the Parlia-
ment buildings can be had from the station. After
leaving Hull the Ottawa river is crossed upon a
bridge remarkable for its solid construction, for here
the Ottawa flows in a wide and full stream just above
the Falls of the Chaudiere. From the train a view of
the rapids may be had. The river is 500 yards wide
and the principal !fall is GO feet high. The tourist
will find much to interest him in a visit to this fall.
The next station is Ottawa.
LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG.
Excursion to Lake Memphremagog.— The South East-
ern Eailway extends from Montreal to Newport in
EXCURSIONS. 251
Yermont. There it connects with the Passumpsic
Valley line, leading to Boston by a direct route
through the very heart of the tinest scenery of the
White Mountains. Trains leave the Bonaventure
Station for Boston morning and evening. In running
down to the river the Lachine Canal (p. lt>3) is
crossed, and the tourist may obtain a good view of
it from the cars. The train crosses the St. Lawrence
on the Victoria Bridge (see p. 167) and, at St. Lam-
bert station, the South Eastern track diverges. Foui*
railways start from this point. The Central Ver-
mont is on the right hand, for the south, via St.
Johns and St. Albans ; the track of the South Eastern
is the next. On the left are the main lines of the
Grand Trunk for Portland, Quebec and Rouse's Point,
and last to the left is the railway for Sorel. Trains
also leave for Huntington, but they diverge from the
main b'xie of the Grand Trunk Railway at a point a
few miles further on. From the embankments on ap-
proaching or leaving the Bridge a view of the rapids
of Sault St. Louis and the bay of Laprarie may be seen
on the right, and of St. Helen's Island and the city of
Montreal on the left. After leaving St. Lambert the
train strikes across the level country to the valley of
the Richelieu which is reached at the Station of
Chambly Basin. — Here the Richelieu opens out into
a wide and tranquil expanse after a turbulent and
rapid course of 16 miles from St. Johns, and into
this basin the Chambly Canal debouches. An impor-
tant trade with the United States is carried on by
this canal. The Richelieu river was, before railway
times, the chief rou'e between Canada and the United
States. It drains Lake Champlain and, by the canal
from Whitehall at the head of the lake, the waters of
the St. Lawrence are connected with the Hudson
river. The Richelieu was called the Riviere-aux-
Iroquois in French times, for down it used to come
the canoes of the hostile Mohawks from their homes
252 CITY OF MONTREAL.
on the head waters of the Hudson. The Marquis de
Tracy in 1(3(35. seeing- the importance of securing con-
trol of this river, ordered the erection of three forts.
One, at the mouth of the river, was erected hv M. de
4Sorel, one at this jxnnt was erected by M. de Cham-
blv. and the third — Fort St. Therese — a few miles
further up, at the liead of the portage, was erected by
•Colonel de Saliei-es, the Colonel of the Carignan regi-
ment in which the two former were captains. These
forts were of wood, but in ITOO Captain Berthelot
Sieur de Beaucourt erected a stone fort at Chambly
upon the site of furt St. L(^uis, of which the ruins
can be seen upon the left as the train approaches the
station.
As the French power strengthened, Fort Chambly,
or Fort St. Louis as it was then called, became less
important, and the interest of the struggle with the
English centres around Crown Point and Ticonderoga ;
but Chambly was always occupied by a strong
French garrison. When Canada was ceded to the
English, a British garrison replaced the French
troops, but the fort at St. Johns was considered by
far the most important on the river, and when the
revolutionary war broke out in 17T5. it was the gar-
rison at St. Johns which arrested for two months the
advance of Monto-omery into Canada. While he was
thus delayed Majors Brown and Livingstone raised
about 300 Canadians, and with these, and 50 men of
the Continental Ai-my, invested Chambly, which sur-
rendered apparently without firing a shot. Certainly
nobody was hurt on either side and the whole matter
was settled in 48 hours. The garrison was com-
manded by Major Stopford and consisted of 83 men
of the 7th Eoyal Fusileers. Montgomery was run-
ning short of powder, and the capture of the military
stores at Chambly contributed largely to the fall of
St. Johns. The prisoners were very useful as a means
of securino^ consideration for Ethan Allen and his
men who had been captured a short time before in a
EXCURSIONS. 253
quixotic attack on Montreal. The colours of the 7th
Fusileers which were taken at the same time were the
first trophies of the war. It was a strange gtirrison.
There were in the fort 83 soldiers and 90 women and
ehiklren. They were all sent into the revolted
colonies. The commandant at 8t. Johns permitted
the batteaux to pass southward unmolested. ''Their
number of women and quantit}^ of baggage" writes
Montgomery, "is astonishing.". The whole attair is
still a puzzle to the historian. The fort was a square
enclosure w^ith flanking towers unprotected by earth-
works of any kind. Barracks and store houses were
built around the court. The site was admirably
chosen at the foot of the portage, commanding effec-
tually the whole breadth of the river.
During the succeeding period while English troops
were stationed in Canada, Chambly was continuously
occupied by a garrison. The fort was abandoned
about the year 1838 and began to fall into decay.
Large barracks and officers' quarters were built near
it. The number of troops gradually decreased, but,
until the evacuation of the country, detachments
from Montreal used to go every summer to Chambly
for target practice. After the British troops finally
departed, the inhabitants began to use the timber of
the fort for fire-wood, until the river face fell down
and the whole wall threatened to tumble in. Then
VTOse an indefatigable local antiquary, M. Dion, who
gave the Quebec Government no rest until the modest
sum of $1,000 was granted to keep the walls from
further decay, and with this inadequate sum he rescued
this interesting relic of former days from utter ruin.
Chambly owes also to M. Dion's enthusiasm a statue
in bronze of Col. De Salaberry, who won a victory
over the Americans at Chateauguay in the war of
1812, while m command of a detachment of Canadian
Yoltigeurs. The statue is of bronze, cast at Montreal
by L. P. Hebert. It is not much above natural size,
but it is a decidedly better work of art than the
254 CITY OF MONTREAL.
colossal statue of the Queen on Victoria Square in
Montreal. There is a very pretty little English
Church at Chambly. After leaving Chanibly Basin
the train next stops at
Chambly Canton.— Here are woollen and cotton mills
and a paper mill. Several other factories cluster
here on the shore of the St, Louis rapids, for the
water power is very extensive. From Chambly. upon
the left, Montarviile, Belceil, and Rougemont moun-
tains are seen to great advantage, rising up out of the
level and fertile country. The train now crosses the
river, and, from the cars, a good view of the rapids
may be obtaiued. Then follows Marieville, which is
the station for Rougemont. On approaching Ste.
Ang^le, the next station, Monnoir or Mount Johnson
is seen plainly on the right, and, on the left, the
Yamaska Mountain emerges from the shadow of
Hougemont. The Sheftbrd Mountain becomes clearly
visible also on the left, and, as the train proceeds,
Brome and Sutton Mountains appear, after which the
mountains around Lake Memphremagog are seen in
a continuous chain also on the left. After Ste. Brigide
the next station is
West Famham, an important manufacturing village
upon the Yamaska river. A large cotton factory
.and a beet-root sugar factory are among the indus-
tries established here. The Central Vermont Rail-
way intersects the South Eastern at this point. The
Yamaska is a very tortuous river. It is seen inter-
mittently upon the left, winding through the level
plain. After passing through Farnham, Brigham
;and East Farnham the train stops at
Cowansville, the county town. The neighbouring
village of Sweetsburg is seen upon the rising ground.
'They are pretty places, and at this point the scenery
^begins to lose its flat character and gains rapidly in
EXCURSIONS. 255
interest. The land is also very good for agricultural
purposes. The river is the south branch of the
Vamaska. After West Brome follows
Sutton Junction, where the Eailway from Sorel con-
nects with the South Eastern. The Bolton Moun-
tains around the lake are seen upon the left, the
Pinnacle Mountain opens to the right. The train,
after stopping at Sjtton F'lats and Abercorn, crosses
the border and arrives at Kichford in the State of
Vermont, an important manufacturing town and one
of the oklest in the State. The direct course of the
road is now barred by Jay's Peak, the most northern
spur of the Green Mountains, 4,018 feet high. The
train now follows along the valley of the Missisquoi
Hiver which it crosses, and, after stopping at East
Bichford, turns back into Canada, keeping the river
on the left continuously visible, winding among the
meadows at the foot of the mountains. Glen Sutton
and Mansonville, the next stations, are in Canada.
Then the border is again crossed. North Troy by
its name gives evidence of the classic culture in the
United States, which replaces the saintly tendencies
of the Lower Canadians. The Missisquoi river is
finally crossed, and after passing Newport Centre,
Lake Memphremagog opens out, and Newport, at the
head of the lake, is reached.
Newport, is a pleasant little town in the State of
Vermont, important chiefly because it is the terminus
of the Passumpsic Eailway and the point where
travellers from Quebec and Montreal meet on the
road to Boston. It is situated at the head of Lake
Memphremagog, one of the most beautiful lakes
in North America. The western shore of the lake
is skirted by lofty mountains, while the eastern
shore slopes gradually down to the water. Upon the
■eastern shore are many beautiful villas and produc-
tive farms, while the oj)posite side retains all ite
25C CITY OF MONTREAL.
primitive wildncss. There is a continual contrast
between these o]>posini^ styles of hindscape beauty
whicli adds variety to the iscenei'v of the hike, for the
eye wanders with pleasure from the quiet and fertile
elopes, adorned with villas and laid out by art, to the
rugged grandeur of Ortbrd Mountain, the Owl's Head
and Mount Elephantis which, as the sun declines,
cast tlieir sombre shadows far over the bright sheet
of water. The outlet of the lake is the Magog river
which falls into the St. Francis at Slierbrooke. It is
a turbulent stream and, as it has a considerable fall
in a short distance, it does much woi'k for manuftic-
turers befo* 3 it is allowed to join the placid St.
Francis. On Mondays the Steamer Lady of the Lake
leaves Newport at 8 a.m. and goes to the town of
Magog at the outlet, a distance of 30 miles, returning
at 4.30. On other days the steamer goes only as far
as Georgeville, but makes two trips, one at 8.30 a.m.
and a second at L30 p.m. The prettiest scenery is
on the lower part of the lake, so that the tourist will
not miss much by turning back at Georgeville.
The most remarkable peak in the chain of moun-
tains on the western shore is the Owl's Head. It rises
from the very water's edge to a height of 2,743 feet.
Snugly ensconced at its base is the Mountain House, a
capital hotel, wdiich has recently been refitted
throughout. Those who are fond of climbing can
easily make the ascent of the mountain by a foot-
path to its very summit. On a clear day the view
is marvellously extensive. Lake Memphremagog in
its whole extent — with every island and creek — is
manifest at the foot of the mountain. Far off the St.
Fi'ancis can be seen in its whole course to the St. Law-
rence, and even the white towers of Notre Dame de
Montreal can be discerned. On the east is lake
Massawippi — on the west is lake Champlain with the
Adirondacks behind it. On the south are the White
Mountains and the Green Mountains. The valleys of
the Yamaska and the Eichelieu — a level plain with,
EXCURSIONS. 257
iHolated peakn lie spread out as on a map. It is a
panorama which will I'cwanl the tourist for a two
hours climl), because, owing to the comi)aratively
isolated position of the mountain, tliere is no inter-
veninir summit to obstruct the view. Let the enter-
prising traveller ascend, provided with a field glass
and a good map and he will not regret his labour, if
only the weather be clear.
A little further down the lake is Mount Elephantis,
and on the opposite shore is Bay View Park, a great
resort for picnics. Then follow a number of hand-
some villas and fine farms. Half way down the lake
is Georgeville — a pleasant summer resort with a good
hotel. Opposite, on the west side, is Knowlton's
Landing. Here the stage for Knowlton can be taken,
traversing the Bolton pass through mountain scenery
of alpine wildness and beauty. At last Magog is
reached at the extreme northern end of the lake.
The Central Vermont Railway has a branch line from
St. Johns to this point which will shortly be extended
to meet the Grand Trunk Railway at Sherbrooke.
Fi'om Magog the steamer returns to Newport where
the toui'ist may resume his journey to New York,
Boston, Montreal or Quebec. Newport is a good
holiday resort. It is a centre from whence many
interesting excursions can be made and i» within
easy reach of all the chief cities of the North and
and East.
The Eastern Townships.— This name is given to an
important section of the Province of Quebec where
the majority of the population is English. Its chief
town is Sherbrooke (population 7,227), an important
place at the junction of the Magog and the St. Fran-
cis rivers. Here are factories of woolens, cotton,
flannel, paper, axes, and other leading articles. There
is an abundant water power. Compton is the centre
of a rich farming and stock-raising district. Here is
the celebrated establishment of the Hon. Senator
17
258 LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
Cochrane known to all stoi-k-breeders in England and
the United States. The choicest and most valuable
cattle on the continent are here.
THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
Xo one who possesses any love for scenery on a
grand scale should fail to make the trip down the
lower St. Lawrence as far as Gasp^, if time permit,
but certainly as far as Tadousac and up theSaguenay.
The majestic flood of the great river widening out
into an estuary of the ocean, the cool and bracing
breeze, the clear air, the stern and, at times, savage
cliffs, the bright clean villages dotting the shore, sur-
rounding the inevitable church, and surrounded by
the fertile green of the clearings, present a succession
of images unexcelled by the attractions of any other
part of the world. The Grand Trunk Railway and
the lines of steamers from Quebec have rendered this
country thoroughly accessible. Here it is cool, while
the rest of the northern hemisphere is baking under
the summer sun ; here are spots where the youthful
and merry may dance and flirt with those like-
minded ; spots where the sportsman can rejoice over
the abundance of fish, with bracing air and fatigue
for sauce ; and spots where the wearied man of busi-
ness may rest.
The service of the St. Lawrence and Saguenay is
performed by a line of boats, which leave Quebec on
the arrival of the Richelieu Company's steamers and
the night trains from the West. These steamers sup-
ply excellent meals. State-rooms can be secured in
advance, and, with very little baggage besides great-
coats and shawls, a party may make a delightful trip,
the boat serving for a floating hotel.
On leaving Quebec the harbour basin is seen to
great advantage. Far oft' on the left Montmorenci,
sheeted with white foam, shines out from the green
hill-side. The beautiful Island of Orleans is soon
SCENERY. 259
reached on the left. It is nineteen miles long by
five and a half broad. About twelve miles from Que-
bec, upon this island, is the village of St. Laurent.
Here the expedition under Wolfe landed in 1759. St.
Patrick's Hole, nearly opposite, is a sheltered anchor-
age for ships, where they used to wait for their last
orders. Here was built the great timber shi]), the
"Columbus," of 3,700 tons burden and 301 feet in
length. She carried four masts, and, when built forty
years ago, was thought to be the largest ship afloat.
The pretty village of St. Anne upon the north shore
is hidden by the intervening island. It is situated
upon the St. Anne Eiver, where are rapids and two
waterfalls celebrated for their beauty and often visited
from Quebec. Besides, it is the Canadian Loretto, and
" La Bonne Ste. Anne " has worked as many miracles
as any saint in Europe. Pilgrimages are constantly
made to this shrine from all parts of the province.
The north shore of the river is wild and mountain-
ous, but the south side is, for more than a hundred
miles, a continuous settlement. As the current sets
strongly down the south side, the steamers always
follow it, and as parish after parish, with church
after church at regular intervals, is passed, the effect
is peculiarly pleasing.
Passing the Island of Orleans we soon reach Grosse
Isle, thirty miles below Quebec. This is the quaran-
tine station, and has a resident establishment for
visiting ships and receiving sick emigrants. Dread-
ful memories linger around this island of the horrors
of the fever year of 1847, when the famine-stricken
people of Ireland poured into our country, and ship
after ship landed its cargo of poor fevered emigrants
upon this small island. Six thousand are said to have
been buried in one long grave. Oi^posite Grosse Isle,
on the north shore, is Capo Tourmente. The moun-
tains which from Quebec were seen looming in the
purple distance here first reach the river, and follow
down along the north shore to a point twenty miles
260 LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
below the Saguenay. The cape is 1,800 feet high.
Opposite, but still far olf from the south shore, the
mountains begin to creep nearer, until, at the point
where the north mountains retire, the south moun-
tains come out upon the river.
Forty miles below Quebec, on the south side, is the
thriving village of St. Thomas, situated on the
Riviere du Sud. Eising among the mountains, this
stream winds through the rich plain and falls into
the St. Lawrence, near the village, over a pretty fall
of some 20 feet high.
Not quite so far dow^n as St. Thomas are Crane
Island and Goose Island, famous among lovers of
sport. They are very fertile islands, and are con-
nected by a long low belt of land, jiroducing abundant
crops of hay.
Sixty-five miles below Quebec is the Traverse,
Although the river is thirteen miles wide, the only
channel available for large ships is not more than
1,400 yards across. The Isle-aux-Coudres (so called
by Jacques Cartier from the number of filberts he
found growing there) and two large shoals obstruct
the navigation. The river bottom is also very
irregular, and cross currents run in all directions.
Large sailing ships generally wait a particular state
of the tide before passing through.
Isle-aux-Coudres on the north, at the entrance of
Bale St. Paul, is a large island under good cultivation.
La Bale St. Paul lies inside of Isle-aux-Coudres, to
the north, between two lofty and precipitous capes.
The Ei.i^re du Gouffre runs into it. It is a very
picturesque bay, being closed in by an amphitheatre of
mountains. Near the bay is a very large deposit of
titaniferous iron ore 90 feet thick. Any scientific
person who finds out a use for titanium will make
his fortune and enrich this locality.
Between Bay St. Paul and Murray Bay, or Malbaie,
lies the seigniory of Les Eboulemens, a name de-
noting a peculiarity of the country. It is re-
SCENERY. 261
markable for being a sort of earthquake centre.
Every year shocks are felt, and occasionally they
have been very severe. In 1757 the earth cracked in
many places. In 1791 the shocks continued for forty
successive days. Eut the great .earthquake year was
that celebrated in the "Jesuit Eelation" of 1663,
when, it is said, that mountains were thrown down and
the face of the country changed from Bale St. Paul to
the Saguenay. The convulsions extended throughout
Canada, and in Quebec and Montreal the people rushed
out of their houses in tei'ror, the bells were violently
rung, and the forests swayed as with a tempest. They
commenced in winter, and the ice was thrown up in
great heaps. At Tadousac showers of ashes fell, and at
Baie St. Paul a mountain was thrown into the sea and
became an island. The river was agitated by great
waves and ran of a changed colour. These shocks lasted
from February to August. The piety of the inhabitants
grev/ more and more earnest. Never, says the narra-
tor, were there so many or so sincere confessions, or
so many conversions. Many who were engaged in
the liquor traffic (which the priests always opposed)
saw the error of their ways and repented. The good
fathers were sometimes a little imaginative in their
missionary reports, but whatever there may be of
exaggeration in these accounts, it is evident that some
grand convulsion, centering in this spot, took place
at that time.
The geological character of the whole of the north
shore is Laurentian. The great mass of the rocks are
gneiss, very much twisted and contorted, and contain-
ing large quantities of Laurentian limestone. Seams of
granite occasionally, as near Tadousac, cut the gneiss.
The whole shore abounds in iron sand. At the Moisic,
364 miles below Quebec, works were erected for smelt-
ing this sand, which makes excellent iron. Magnetic
iron ore and titaniferous iron ore are very abundant.
MuiTay Bay, or Malbaie, is 90 miles from Quebec.
It is a deservedly favourite summer resort for Cana-
202 LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
dians. The Mun\ay river, a small stream with fair
fishing, falls into this bay. There are good hotels where
a stranger may stop. The long line of cottages around
the bay are the summer residences of Montreal and
Quebec people. It is a jjlace of much interest to
geologists, for fossiliferous Silurian I'ocks lie at the
base of the Laurentian cliffs. This seigniory was
granted, after the conquest, to an officer in one of
AVolfe's Highland regiments, and was settled by sol-
diers who obtained their discharge in Canada. Here
they married Canadian wives, and forgot, not only
Scotland, but their religion and language, and the
tourist is startled to find many Frasers, McNeils, and
Blackburns who cannot speak a word of English.
There is an English church service here on Sundays
during summer, and for week-day amusements boat-
ing and fishing suffice. Several lakes at no great dis-
tance afford pleasant excursions.
Upon the north shore, near the mouth of the Sague-
nay, is a small island called Echafaud aux Basques
and, in Charlevoix's time, traces of its occupation
by whalers were visible. The Basque roads, quite close,
were called I'Anse aux Basques in Champlain's time.
Soon are passed on the south shore the Kamouraska
islands, the Pilgrinis, Hare island, and the little islets
familiarly styled Brandy Pots. The boat stops at
Kamouraska, a favourite watering-place with the
French Canadians. The country is productive, and
abounds, moreover, in pretty scenery. The Kamou-
raska river falls into the St. Lawrence at this point.
The next stopping place is the wharf, 125 miles
from Quebec, where passengers are landed for Eiviere
du Loup and Cacouna. Carriages in plenty will be
found on the wharf to take the tourist to either place.
The wharf is midway between them. Eiviere du Loup
is one of the most picturesque villages in the province.
Near the village are the pretty falls of the Loup
river, close to the railway track. The old portage to
the head-waters of the St. John commenced here.
CACOUNA. 263
Cacouna. — This is the Brighton of Canada, the
paradise of fair Quebecers, famous for dancing and
flirting, and a dangerous place for an unengaged
bachelor, or even for an engaged one, if his fiancee be
not there also to monopolise him. The St. Lawrence
hotel upon the river-bank is always well kept.
For miles along the road between Kiviere du Loup
and the east end of this village the white cottages
of summer residents are scattered along the high
bank. The river is here twenty-five miles wide
and quite salt. The ships nearly always pass near
the south shore, and there is amusement for idlers in
watching them. The river forms here a shallow bay,
sheltered by Cacouna island, and the sandy beach at
high water is suitable for bathing. To sit upon the
edge of the high river bank at Cacouna and watch the
sun sink behind the purple mountains of the north
shore is a sight worth coming all the distance to see.
Tadousac— Leaving the Eiviere du Loup wharf, the
the steamer crosses over to Tadousac and passes up
the Saguenay, returning the next day. So much has
been written, and well written, about the Saguenay
river, that we could not do better than quote some of
the more graphic descriptions. Here is one by Fran-
cis Parkman, a description of Tadousac in the time of
Champlain : —
" The port of Tadousac was long the centre of the Cana-
dian fur trade. A desolation of barren mountains closes
around it, betwixt whose ribs of rugged granite, bristling
with sapins, birches and firs, the Saguenay rolls its gloomy
waters from the northern wilderness. Centuries of civiliza-
tion have not tamed the wildness of the place ; and still, in
grim repose, the mountains hold their guard around the
waveless lake that glistens in their shacow, and doubles, in
its sullen mirror, crag, precipice and forest.
" Near the brink of the cove or harbour where the vessels
lay, and a little below the mouth of a brook which formed
one of the outlets of this small lake, stood the remains of the
wooden barrack built by Champlain eight years before.
264 LOWER ST. LAWkEXCE.
Above the brook were the lodges of an Indian camp, stacks
of poles covered with birch bark. They belonged to an
Algonquin horde called Montagnais, denizens of surrounding
wilds, and gatherers of their only harvest — skins of the
moose, cariboo, and bear ; fur of the beaver, marten, otter,
fox, wild cat, and lynx. Nor was this all, for they were
intermediate traders betwixt the French and the shivering
bands who roamed the wear}' stretch of stunted forest be-
tween the head waters of the Saguenay and Hudson's Bay.
Indefatigable canoe-men in their birchen vessels light as
egg-shells, they threaded the devious tracks of countless rip-
pling streams, shady by-ways of the forest, where the wild
duck scarcely finds depth to swim ; then descended to their
mart along those scenas of picturesque yet dreary grandeur
which steam has made familiar to modern tourists. With
slowly moving paddles they glided beneath the clift' whose
shaggy brows frown across the zenith, and whose base the
deep waves wash with a hoarse and hollow cadence ; and
they passed the sepulchral bay of the Trinity, dark as
the tide of Acheron, a sanctuary of silence and solitude,
where the soul of the wilderness dwells embodied in voice-
less rock; depth which, as the fable runs, no line can fathom,
and heights at whose dizzy verge the wheeling eagle seems
a speck."
'* The scene," Parkman adds in a note, ''is one of
the most remarkable on the continent." Bouchette
estimates the height of these clifts at ISOO feet.
But not only was Tadousac the centre of the fur
trade. It was also a centre of the Christian faith.
With the trader came the indefatigable missionary,
not without fruit also of his labours. Far up, upon the
head waters of the Saguenay and St. Maurice, where
the fooc of the white man even now seldom treads,
the crot s was planted by zealous missionaries in very
early times.
The kSaguenay is, next to the Ottawa, the most
important tributary of the St. Lawrence. The largest
ship of the line can sail up safely sixty-five miles from
its mouth to the rapids at Chicoutimi. It receives
eleven large tributaries, which drain many lakes in
the interior. Chicoutimi, from which large quantities
THE SAGUENAY. 265
of lumber are shipped, is half-way botwcen the mouth
of the river and Lake St. John.
The entrance to the river is somewhat intricate, but
once past the line of shoal, it is not easy to find
anchorage, so great is the depth of the water. In a
distance of many miles the dej^th is 145 fathoms, and
the breadth varies from three quarters of a mile to
two miles. The harbour is on the north-east side of
the mouth of the river, and is separated from it bj^ a
rocky peninsula, The steamer does not enter the
harbour, but stops at L' Arise a FEau, upon the river.
The wharf is but ten minutes' walk from the hotel,
which is beautifully situated upon a plateau overlook-
ing the St. Lawrence. Ever}- comfort will be found
here, and for amusements, fishing and boating will
suffice. There are no roads and no carriages. Over
the wilderness of cliffs no roads are possible. From the
bold summits of the surrounding hills views may be
had of surpassing beauty and grandeur, scenery which
in Europe would be crowded with visitors and cele-
brated in story. Not that this rocky harbour has no
history or legend clinging to it. The quaint little
chapel perched up so high tells of two centuries of
devotion, and reminds the traveller of the undying
zeal of its founders. Li this harbour Chauvin died,
the enterprising Huguenot who first induced Cham-
plain to visit Canada. Here Sir David Kirke left his
main squadron when he sent up the expedition which
took Quebec and plundei*ed the rising colony.
The Prince of Wales visited the Saguenay during
his Canadian tour, and probably the most vivid des-
cription of the peculiarities of the river which has yet
appeared is in the volume published by Mr. Wood, the
Times' Correspondent, who was in his suite. The first
day was w^el, but the weather having changed and the
8un having come brightly out, the Prince was left to
fish in the Marguerite, and a number of his suite, Mr.
Wood among them, went further up the river in the
sloop of war. ^h-. Wood thus describes the trip :■ —
266 LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
" From St. Marguerite the smart little sloop steamed on to
where the wild scenery of the river culminates at a little inlet
on the right bank between Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than
these two dreadful headlands nothing can be imagined more
grand or more impressive. For one brief moment the rugged
character of the river is partly softened, and looking back
into the deep valley between the capes, the land has an asi^ect
of life and wild luxuriance, which, though not rich, at least
seems so in comparison with the previous awful barrenness.
Cape Trinity, on the other side towards the landward open-
ing, is pretty thickly clothed with fir and birch mingled
together in a colour contrast which is beautiful enough, es|)e-
cially when the rocks show out among them, with their little
cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver shining in the sun.
But Cape Eternity well becomes its name, and is the very
reverse of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation
on its brother ca]^ for the weakness it betrays in alloAving
anything like life or verdure to shield its wild, uncouth defor-
mity of strength. Cape Eternity certainly shows no sign of
relaxing in this respect from its savage grandeur. It is one
tremendous cliff of limestone, more than 1,500 feet high, and
inclined forward nearly 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it,
and seeming as if at any moment it would fall and over-
whelm the deep, black stream which flows so cold, so deep and
so motionless below. High up on its rough grey brows a few
stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms,
giving an awful weird asj>ect to the mass, blanched here and
there by the tempests of ages, stained and discoloured by little
waterfalls, in blotchy and decaying spots, but all speaking
mutely of a long-gone time when the Saguenay was old, silent
and gloomy, before England was known or the name of
Christianity understood. Unlike Niagara, and all other of
God's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or
solitude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in
an awful solitude like this, and, though you involuntary talk
in subdued tones, still talk you must, if only to relieve your
mind of the feeling of loneliness and desolation which seems
to weigh on all who venture up this stern, grim watery chasm.
" The ' Flying Fish ' passsd under this cape slowly, with
her yards almost touching the rock, though with more than
1,000 feet of water under her. Even the middies and young-
sters from the squadron were awed by the scene into a tem-
porary quietness. The solemn and almost forbidding silence
at last became too much. The party said they had not come
out to be overawed, chilled and subdued by rocks, however
tremendous, so it was carried nem, con. that dead and stony
as they were, they must at least have echoes, and the time
THE SAOUENAY. 26T
was come to wake them. In a minute after, and Captain Hope
liaving goocl-naturedly given his consent, one of the largest
68-pounders was cast loose and trained aft to face the cliff.
From under its overhanging mass the 'Flying Fish' was
moved with care lest any loose crag should be sufficiently
disturbed by the concussion to come d n n bodily upon her
decks. A safe distance thus gained, the gun was tired. None
who were in the 'Flying Fish ' that day will ever forget its
sound. For the space of half a minute or so there was a dead
silence, and then as if the report and concussion were hurled
back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash on crash.
It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life
under the tremendous din, and as if each was tiring 68-
pounders full upon us, in sharp crushing volleys, till at last
they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated,
bellowing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude
from hill to hilf, till all the distant mountains seemed to
roar and groan at the intrusion. It was the first time these
hideous cliffs had ever been made to speak, and when they
did break silence they did it to some purpose.
"A few minutes further on, the 'Flying Fish ' passed under
Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 fe'^t above the water, a
liuge rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave in which, as
yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entrance
to this black aperture a granitic rock, like the statue of some
dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago during the winter,
it gave way, and the monstrous figure came crushing down
through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the
entrance to the cavern it had guarded i)erhaps for ages.
Beyond this, again, was th3 Tableau Rock, a sheet of dark-
coloured limestone, some 600 feet high by 300 feet wide, as
straight and almost as smooth as a mirror."
This is a very line description. All who love the
Saguenay will enjoy it, for the Saguenay has not only
many admirers, but many true lovers who spend their
summer holidays upon its waters. There is something-
in the scenery of the river which gives tone and
vigour to the mind, something sanative to an over-
wrought brain, as the climate is bracing to the body.
Before these solemn precipice^, vanity and ambition
seem ridiculous, and the calm grandeur of these ever-
lasting hills mocks the pettiness of our short-lived
and fussy cares. * visit to the Saguenay is in truth
a *' medicine to t'e ^ ind diseased."
268 LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
Ha Ha Bay, is tlio usual teriuination to the Sague-
nay trip. Tlie bay is about seven miles wide and
nine miles lonij^, and attbrds excellent anchorage
for vessels of any size. The main channel of the
Saguenay passes u]) to the right between two cliflfe
called East and West Capes, but here a broad bay
spreads out, and houses and 2>eople and green fields
once more aj)pear.
Twenty miles farther up is Chicoutimi, an interest-
ing village situated at the junction of the Chicoutimi
river with the Saguenay. It is an important place
for lumber export. The chapel is one of the old
Jesuit buildings, for thay had a mission here very
early. The Saguenay is navigable for a few miles
furthei* up before it is broken by rapids. The Chicou-
timi river runs a short l)ut violent course often miles
from lake Kenogami, broken by almost continuous
rapids and falls. The falls near the village are fifty
feet high.
TO THE BAY CHALEUR.
Those who desire to follow the St. Lawrence to the
Gulf must take passage at Quebec on one of the Que-
bec and Gulf Port steamers.
After passing the mouth of the Saguenay, the first
point of interest is the island of Bic. At this point
outward-bound vessels leave their pilots, who await
inward vessels here. The special dangers of the river
are supposed to be over, and captains can navigate
from this point by the aid of charts alone. This
is the last anchorage in the river, and aflbrds excel-
lent shelter in bad weather. The island is long and
low and not inviting. Here, in December 1861, the
Ounard steamer *' Persia," landed a regiment of
Guards during the crisis of the Trent affair. Many
ships are here at all times during the summer, either
outward bound waiting for westerly, or inward bound,
waiting for easterly breezes. The high mountain of
BAY CHALEUR. 26^
Bic is a good coast mark for a ship sailing up thi
river. Bic is 153 miles from Quebec.
Soon after passing Bic the long pier of Rimouski
is seen. Here the ocean steamers of the Allan Line
land or receive the incoming or outgoing mails. Pas-
sengers may also leave or join the steamer here. A
tender is always in readiness for the purpose. The
town of Rimouski is two miles from the wharf.
It is the most important town in the province east of
Quebec. The Intercolonial Railway passes through
it. Passengers from the Maritime Provinces usually
land or embark at this point.
The Paps of Matane come next in sight, two remark-
able mountains, very useful landmarks for seamen.
Soon Metis is passed, now a favourite summer resort for
people who dislike warm weather. Matane is next
passed where the Matane river falls into the St. Law-
rence. This rive:* rises in the rear of the Paps of
Matane, and siiould, in all reason, flow south, but, tak-
ing a sudden turn, it unexpectedly breaks through
the mountains at this point. The settlement on its
banks is hidden by the hills ; it is a considerable fish-
ing village.
The south bank of the river is here very bold and
grand. The mountains have receded from the north
shore so that all the scenery is on this bank. The
Notre Dame mountains divide the streams which
flow into the Bay Chaleur from the St. Lawrence
waters, but there is very little of a water-shed upon
this side.
At Cape Chatte, called after M. de Chates, command-
ant at Dieppe, who was Champlain's first patron, and
Cape St. Anne, which are next passed, the river proper
may be said to cease. The distance from Cape Chatte
to Point des Monts on the north shore is twenty-eight
miles. The steamer now enters the Gulf of St. Law-
rence, and the left-hand shore trends rapidly tc the
north. Little fishing stations only are seen clinging
to the base of the steep shores. In a few hours Cape
270 LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
Honier is passed, and if the weather is clear the ishind
of Anticosti may bo seen in the distance.
Cape (rasp($ is next passed, and, between high and
bold clifts, and through a narrow inlet, the steamer
passes into the beautiful land-locked Bay of Gaspd.
Gaspe is a pleasant summer residence. The bay
is sixteen miles long and five miles broad, sheltero<l
from all winds, and with excellent anchorage. The
visitor who delights in boating or tishing will have
full emj)loyment, and the artist in pursuit of fine
scenery will find it to his heart's content. The land
slopes gently down around the bay, and further in-
land, wooded mountains, full of streams abounding
in fish, tempt the enterprising tourist. GaspcS is an
important fishing town, and here is the chief establish-
ment of the large firm of Le Boutillier Brothers.
At the further end of Gaspd Bay the shoi'es ap-
proach, and again widening, form what is called
^aspd Basin, a magnificent sheet of water, landlocked,
in which three hundred large vessels might ride out
the fiercest storm with ease.
Leaving Gaspe, the boat arrives, after two or three
hours, at Perc^, a picturesque place situated on the
southern shore of Malbaie. It derives ics name from a
Tery remarkable rock standing isolated though in di-
rect line with Barry Point. The rock is pierced by an
arch, through which boats may sail, and its inaccessible
summit is thronged by sea birds. It is 1500 feet long,
SOO feet wide, and rises to a height of 290 feet. Be-
hind the village rise the clifl:s called Les Murailks^
suggesting to the imagination a ruined wall of some
fortress of Titans. They attain a height of 600 feet,
and seem to threaten the village with an impending
fall. The island of Bonaventui^e, precipitous upon
•one side with lofty cliffs, and sloping gently down
upon the other in fertile fields, adds to the interest of
the scene.
Seventy miles from Perc^, in the Baye des Cha-
leui's, is Paspebiac, an important fishing town and
LABUAUOR COAST. 271
tho hoa(l(iu:irter8 of the hirgo linn of Robin. This
is a tirm of Jersey men. It was entablished here
in 1767. They have many small stations loi* curing
fish, and their vessels sail to all the ports of the
Mediterranean and Spanish Main. The C(kI of the Bay
Chaleui", though smaller than the Newfoundland cod,
are moi'e highly esteemed, being whiter in colour and
probably more carefully cured. From the days of the
discovery of the country, before the settlement of
Quebec, the bay has been crowded with fishermen as
it is to this day. In the rivers, saln^on are abundant
and of large size.
The next stopping point is Dalhousie in New
Biunswick. The I'iver Restigouche, which falls in at
the head of the bay, marks the boundary of Quebec
upon that side, (see pp. 82-86.)
THE LABRADOR COAST.
In the long summer days the steamers for England
take the route through the Straits of Belle Isle. This
is not only the shorter course, but it is the pleasanter
one for ])assengers ; as nearlj^ one-thii'd of the dis-
tance to England is in comparatively smooth water,
and bad sailors get their sea-legs by degrees.
This coast was well known in the ver}- eailiest
times. The Norseman knew it in A.D. 1000, under
the name Helluland. It was re-discovered by Gaspar
Cortereal in A.D. 1500. He would seem to have
named it, but the meaning of the name Labrador does
not clearly appear. It is not, as in Cape Breton " Le
Bras-d'Oi",'' and the tradition on the coast that it is
a sui'vival of the name of an early Basque whaler
seems to be without foundation. Far-fetched also is
the supposition that Cortereal named it Laborador
because of some spots which appeared fit for cultiva-
tion. The most probable theory offered is, that,
having stolen fifty of the natives as slaves, he called
it Laborador — the labourer's or slave coast. In the
272 LABRADOR COAST.
oldest maps it is called " Labor ador or Terra Corter-
ealisy And here it may be observed that, fj-om
Labrador to La Plata, it was as man-stealers that
Europeans made their debut upon this continent. It is
also worthy of notice that more people were burned
alive in Europe for witchcraft and theological eccen-
tricities in time of peace than the Red Indians ever
burned as enemies in time of war ; and also that the
northern Indians invariably respected their female
captives, who, if they survived the heat of battle, had
nothing else to dread.
The Esquimaux tribes, who now inhabit the interior
of this region, dwelt, at the period of the Norse voy-
ages, much farther to the southward and were gradu-
ally driven north by the irruptions of the Algonquin
tribes who arrived later on the coast. These Esqui-
maux are by no means to be despised ; for, according
to Mr. Fiske ('' Excursions of an Evolutionist") they
ai'e the sole surviving representatives of the Cave-
men of Europe of Pleistocene ages, who, during the
glacial period, wintered in the still fashionable regions
of Pau and Mentone, in company with their pet
animals the cave-bear, the cave-lion, the mammoth,
and the woolly rhinoceros. Before an antiquity like
that even the Massimi must yield precedence, and
the Capets and Howards be considered mushroom
races. If the features of this ancient people cannot
be called pleasing, they have, in the smallness of
their hands and feet and their love for hunting and
fishing, well recognized marks of distinguished de-
scent.
Botany.— The character of the climate may be learned
from the following sketch of the Botany of the coast
contributed by Mr. A. T. Drummond : —
'' On the northern coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence
there is an interesting intermingling of arctic and
sub-arctic with northern temperate plants. Opposite
Belle Isle, the first land which the traveller meets on
BOTANY. 273
his journey from Europe to Canada by the northern
route, the trees are limited to a very few species,
probably only the poplars (Fopuhis fremu hides and P.
balsamifera) , the birch {Beiula papyraced), the spi-uces
{Abies nigra, A. alba and A. balsamea), and the larch
iLarix Americana). There are, however, hej*e, both
in Labrador and in Newfoundland, many interesting
little ai'ctic plants, amongst others, — Draba incana,
Lychnis alpina, Cochlearia tridactylites, Silene acauJis,
Dryas octopetala, D. integrifolia, Bubus arcticus, Saxi-
fraga nivalis, S. stellaris, Sedum Bhodiola, Solidago
virgaurea, var. alpina, Arctostaphylos alpina, Diapensia
Lapponica, Fleurogyne rot at a, Salix alpestris, S. reticu-
lata and S. phyllicifolia. A branch of the cold
Labi'ador current flows south through the Straits of
Belle Isle, and thence along the north shore towards
and up the estuary of the St. Lawrence, carrying
with it, no doubt, with other drift, the seeds of both
arctic and sub-arctic species. On Anticosti and the
Mingan Islands, against whose shores this branch
current strikes, there are, in addition to the above
species, others, as Thalictrum alpimim, Erysimum lan-
ceolatum, Vesicaria arctica, Viola palustris, Saxifraga
Groenlandica, Erigeron alpinum and Betula nana. Along
with these arctic species are, everywhere, numerous
little sub-arctic forms.
Those interested in European botany will be de-
lighted to find in Newfoundland and along the coast
here a considerable proportion of identical Eui^opean
species, not merely among the high boreal forms, but
even among the northern temperate species, recalling
the probably changed physical features of these con-
tinents which in post-tertiary times gave opportunity
for this intermingling of European with American
vegetation.
A most interesting fact is the range of some of
these little arctic and sub-arctic plants up the broad
estuary of the St. Lawrence, upon both sides, towards
Quebec. At Gasp^, the ''Land's End " on the south
18
274 LABRADOR COAST.
shore, and thence up the river on that side, the climate
as shown by the flora, is milder, though Dryas Drum-
mondil, SoUdago thrysoidea, Yaccinium Vitis-ldcca and
Asplenium viride occur at GaspcS Basin, and Bubus
Chamcvmorus, Ernvetnun nigrum^ Gentiana acuta, and
Fleurogyne rotata extend as far as Eiviere du Loup.
Even on the Island of Orleans opposite Quebec are
found Astragulus alpinus, A. secunduSj Vaccinium uligin-
osum, V. Vitis-Ida^a, and Euphrasia officinalis. On
the north shore of the river the sub-arctic flora is
more pronounced, and the northern temperate species
are somewhat fewer in number. The water of the
river is found there to be colder, with a corresponding
effect on the temperature of the immediate coast. An
explanation of these features is not difficult. Arctic
plants delight in a low, equable temperature and a
moist atmosphere, and whenever these conditions
exist, whether on mountain summits or riortherly
ocean coasts, there these little plants find a congenial
home. Thus we find sub-arctic plants on the jutting
headlands of Lake Superior. The immediate coasts
of the Lower St. Lawrence also amply supply these
conditions. They occupy a i-ather high latitude, and
generally rise to considerable elevations, forming ex-
tensive rocky blufts and, in frequent cases, mountain
ranges. The broad and deep expanse of water front-
ing them necessarily lowers and equalizes the tem-
perature, while the constant evaporation over its vast
surface gives moisture to the air. The temperature
is still further lowered by the cold Labrador current
which, chilled by recent contact with floating ice and
bergs, is, by the peculiar position of the Island of
Anticosti, thrown against the north shore of the river,
along which it continues until it meeis, before reaching
Quebec, the warmer waters from the great lakes
above. Here the current is reversed and the outflow
of the united and warmer waters to the Gulf takes
place towards the south side of the river.
That latitude has, in the Dominion, but a small
HISTORY AND PHYSICAL ASPECT. 275
relation to climate is strikingly exemplified in the
valley of the Lower St. Lawrence. Anticosti whose
flora indicates a sub-arctic climate and which is only
used for Ashing and lighthouse stations, is in the same
latitude as Winnipeg and Vancouver Island, and lies
even south of a considei-able portion of the Canadian
Pacific Railway west of Winnipeg, and of most of the
finest agricultural territory of Manitoba and the
North-west. In fact, latitude 49°, which forms the
southern boundary of the Dominion from the Lake of
the Woods westward to the Pacific Ocean, passes
through the northei-n part of the Gasp^ Peninsula and
not far from Heath Point in Anticosti." — A. T. D,
History and Physical Aspect.— On the eastern coast
of Labrador Nature usually wears her sternest as-
pect. Cold, desolate cliffs, deep fiords, broad bays
crowded with rocky islets ; a coast ground by ice,
and beaten by the waves — destitute of verdure and
defiant of the utmost fury of the ocean. On the west-
ern coast, about Mingan ar^d Seven Islands, these
sterner features are relaxed, the trees come down to
the coast line, and the gardens at the fishing posts
produce the hardier kinds of vegetables. All along
from the Saguenay to Belle-Isle are salmon streams
without number, the myriad inlets are the haunts of
innumerable aquatic birds, and the cold waters teem
with fish in inconceivable numbers. Even in early
spring, while the field-ice is packed along the coast,
the sealers reap an abundant harvest. From these
forbidding shores greater wealth has been carried
away than from the mines of Potosi ; for there have
resorted, during 400 years, fishermen from every sea-
port on the west of Europe.
It has been stated, on what authority does not
appear, that Cabot, on his first voj^age, found a
Basque vessel on the coast of !N^ewfoundland. It
is, however, certain that, in A.D. 1508, only eleven
years after Columbus discovered America, the Breton
276 LABRADOR COAST.
fishermen had an important establishment upon the
the coast called Brest. This port is laid down on
the earliest maps, and Jacques Cartier, in 1535,
found, on the coast of Newfoundland, a Rochelle
vessel looking for it. The tradition of the coast is
wrong in placing this post at Bradore. It was on Old
Fort Bay in Esquimaux Bay, called "Yieux Fort,"
by the French 200 years ago. Roberts, in his Diction-
ary of Commerce, published in A. D. 1600, describes
it as an important place, and speaks of the Governor
and officers of the town. The fort was of stone and
mounted with cannon, but it is difficult to conceive
that the population, which is stated to be 1000, could
have been resident. It was probably a favourite ren-
dezvous in the fishing season. The Esquimaux were
very hostile at that time and the fishermen could not
scatter their posts. The place disappeared from the
later French maps excepting under the name Vieux
Fort. In those early days these waters were cele-
brated in Europe as a w^haling ground. In Robert
Dudley's BeJlarcano del 3Iare, published in Florence
in 1647, he calls the water shut in by Meccatina
and Belle Isle " la Gran' Baia dove se pescono le
Balene.^' The French followed the cod and seal fish-
eries. The Basques were the whalers : and French and
Spanish Basques woi-ked in harmony together. Har-
bours for shelter there are in abundance, and fish
enough there still are to afford, in A.D. 1880, a pro-
duct to the value of $1,401,288.
The earliest enterprise of the Canadian French was in
this direction. From Tadousac to Cape Cormorant was
a Royal Domaine Avorked by the ^'fermiers du Hoi," to
whom the king let it. From there to Bradore extended
a grant made in 1661 (nine years before the date of
the Hudson's Bay charter) to the Sieur Bissot de la
Riviere. The islands opposite, which follow each other
in close succession for the same distance along the
coast, were granted in 1678 to Joliet and Lalande, and
Joliet, as a reward for having discovered the Missis-
BAYS AND ISLANDS. 277
sippi, received a grant of the island of Anticosti.
There he resided in 1680 with his young wife Claire
Bissot, and four young children ; but the English
plundered and broke up hi.< posts, and like LaSalle
he died a ruined man. The grave of LaSalle is
somewhere near the mouth of the Mississippi. Joliet
was buried on an island at the mouth of the St. Law-
rence opposite Meecatina.
Pointe des Monts.— The light-house upon a low spit
of land is supposed to mark the ^: ranee of the river.
The coast is low and monotonous. Dangerous shoals
skirt the north shore from Tadousac, and the iron sand
which is abundant on the coast is said to affect the com-
passes of ships approaching it. From hence the coast
trends abruptly to the North. The next important
point is
Egg Island, fomed as the scene of the wreck of Admi-
ral Walker's fleet in 1711 ; see pp. 90, 120, 141. The ex-
pedition consisted of 68 vessels, and carried 6463 sol-
diers, many of them veterans of Marlborough's wars:
Nearly one thousand men w^ere drowned. Eight trans-
ports were lost, and the remaining vessels were shat-
tered by the storm.
The Bay of Seven Islands. — The scene of one of
Whittier's prettiest and most touching ballads :
" Green-turfed, flower-sown, the last outpost
Of summer upon the dreary coast,
With its gardens small and spare,
Sad in the frosty air."
A beautiful land-locked bay, where the largest navies
could ride in safety, and easily accessible in all winds.
The mountains in the distance are 1,000 to 1,300 feet
high. The bay runs six miles into the land. The seven
islands are high and steep. Grro?+ -.'id Little Basque
islands are 500 feet high. It is a place of wild and
picturesque beauty. Near here is the Moisic river,
278 LABRADOR COAST.
celebrated for its iron deposits and for its salmon fish-
ing. From hence to the Natashquan the coast is a
succession of cliffs of moderate height, uniform and
monotonous.
Mingan, is an important point. The Mingan islands
help to form one of the best harbours on the coast.
This was the headquarters of Bissot, to whom the
seigniory was granted in IGGl, and the Hudson's Bay
Company have a post here which they rent from his
successors. At Esquimaux Point is a large settlement
of 1775 inhabitants, who have a fine church and do
a good business in the fisheries.
Natashquan is the next harbour of importance. The
river is the largest on the coast, and celebrated for
salmon. There are also good harbours at Kegashka
and Coacoachou, farther east. From thence to Mecca-
tina is an unsheltered and formidable coast. At Cape
Whittle the coast turns northward towards Ficiie Isle.
Great Meccatina.— A bold headland and a notable
landmark on the coast. Near it (perhaps on Little
Meccatina Island) is the scene of a touching story,
related by Th^vet of the lady Margaret, niece of the
stem Huguenot Eoberval. He abandoned her and her
duenna on one of these islands when her love became
evident. Her lover jumped overboard and swam
to the island to share her fate. This was in 1542. The
duenna died and the lover died, and after two years
of solitary struggle the lady was rescued by a passing
vessel and carried to France. Queen Margaret of
Navarre refers to the same story in one of her tales
but she has got it wrong. Th^vet learned the parti-
culars from the lips of the lady Margaret herself*
From this point to
Bradore Bay, the coast makes an inward sweep.
Notable among the bays and harbours which abound
SALMON FISHERIES. 2^9
in this curving coast is Old Fort Bay where, as we
have seen, was the hai'bour of Brest. Bradore Bav was
an old haunt of the Spanish Basques. They made
a settlement there, but the Esquimaux broke it
up. Hence the name Baye des Espagnols given to
it by the French in early days. It was the boundary
of Bissot's grant. Jacques Cartier called the bay " Les
Islettes," and to its sheltered waters, studded with
countless islands, every kind of fish oi' fowl which
frequents the northern waters loves to resort. The
bold cape which bounds the bay on the north is Grand
Point, and close to it is Anse aux Blancs Sablons —
the boundary of Canada on the East.
The Salmon Fisheries of the so-called King's Posts
formed, earlv in the centurv, no inconsiderable item in
the business of the Hudson's Bay Company. The
numerous rivers and streams which empty their
waters into the Atlantic ocean and Gulf of St. Law-
rence all the w^ay from Hudson Straits to the Saguenay
formerly abounded with these fish, but the barrier-
nets and weirs of pale-faces and the spears of Indians
had well nigh exterminated the species. In 1852 the
Canadian government assumed possession of the
salmon fisheries, passed protective legislation through
Parliament, and organized an effective system of
guardianship — and with the best results, as salmon
have again become fairly abundant in m )Bt of
these waters. Recent litigation has, however,
partially reversed this action of the legislature and
has confirmed the title in a salmon fishery to the
riparian proprietor.
Owing to climatic causes the salmon season in
Quebec is of short duration, scarcely extending over
more than twenty to thirty days in all, ten or twelve
of which occur in June and the rest in July. By
common consent the feast of SS. Peter and Paul is
marked as a red-letter day in the Calendars of both
anglers and net-fishers and rarely does their patron
280 LABRADOR COAST.
saint fail them. Diirinij; the two or three daj's when
the season is at its height the take is often pheno-
menal, and the weight even of the angler's bag is
determined more bv the streni»:th of his tackle and
his own j)hysieal endurance rather than by his
angling skill. Gill-nets with large meshes (measure-
ing fi'om 12 to 16 inches round the square) are the
fixed engines commonly used in Canada. They are
contined to tidal waters, must not obstruct more than
two-thirds of the main channel, and must be lifted for
24 hours in eveiy week.
Almost no grilse are taken in these nets, but the
"run " of grilse does not seem to be neaily so large
here as in Britain and in Norway.
The Canadian salmon is said to be conspecilic with
his European brother — the true Salmo salar of L inn^,
but no necessity is laid upon him to make long
migrations by sea towards the North pole. The con-
ditions of ample shelter and abundance of food are
obtainable by him within easy distance of his native
river. In spring time his sea food seems to consist
of caplin, smelts, sand-launce, and other small fish of
the kinds which roam about in shoals. He is a greedy,
predaceous feeder while in the salt-water and thus
prepares for his prolonged fast when in the livers.
In fresh-water his intestines are found to be empty
and his powerful stomach in a state of collapse.
A few weeks later than the salmon the migratory
trout begins to come up from the sea and to make his
appearance along the coast and in the estuaries of
the rivers. Structurally he is not unlike his brother
the river trout, called Salmo fonthialis^ and notwith-
standing his roving habits they live in harmony in
the same pools, spawn together on the same beds, feed
together on smelts and parrs and even on the young
fry of their own species. A fresh run sea trout aifords
excellent sport to the angler, and food scarcely less
toothsome than the lordly salmon.
D. A. P. W.
THE PKOVINCE OF ONTARIO.
The political existence of Ontario commenced in
1791, when, under the name of Upper Canada, it was
set off from the ohi Province of Quebec to be a home,
under Englissh hiws, for exiled loyalists of the revolted
colonies. A sketch is given at p. 103 of this interest-
ing episode of history. The French settlements ex-
tended only as far up the I'iver as Coteau du Lac, the
boundary of the present Province of Quebec. All else
was unbroken forest down to the water's edge ; save
posts at Fort Frontenac (now Kingston), at Niagara,
and at Detroit. Since the power of the Ilurons had
been broken, the very Indian tribes had emigrated ;
and into the solitude of that unbroken forest wilder-
ness, scarcely one hundred years ago, went the
courageous pioneers who so speedily suMued it by
their labour, organized it by their intelligence and
civilized it by theii' moral worth.
The first meeting of the legislature was at Newark
— now the quiet town of Niagara — not at the Falls,
but at the junction of the River and Lake Ontario.
There, in 1792, Lieut. Governor Simcoe met the
members of the Legislative Council, three in number ;
and of the Assembly, live in number. These repre-
sented the twelve thousand souls who formed the total
poj»ulation of the Province. Ten thousand of these
were refugee loyalists, and Governor Simcoe had been
colonel of the Queen's Rangers in the Revolutionary
War. They were no ordinary farmers and merchants,
though they were clad in plain homespun. They had
been men of importance in the Colonies before the
revolt and accustomed to the conduct of affairs. They
282 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
laid the basin of the constitution of Ontario and
organized it under English monarchical foj'ni8 — free,
with the reality of freedom.
Newark was not long the seat of government, for,
when the hounchiry was dechired to be the Niagai'a
River and the British garrison was withdrawn from
Fort Niagara on the southern bank, it was clearly im-
possible f(>r the legislature to meet ahnost under the
guns of a United States fort. Then York was selected.
There had been been an old French post there at the
mouth of the Humber, and near its site Governor
Simcoe pitched his tent before a single house had been
built. So humble was the origin of the beautiful city
of Toronto, not yet one hundi'cd years old.
But the trials of the lovalists were not even then
over. In 1812, war broke out between England and
the United States. Jetlerson represented the general
opinion when he wrote: "The acquisition of Canada
this year will be a mere matter of marching." To an
anarch like Jefferson, it was utterlv inconceivable
that any people should object to what he called
*' freedom." In the interim there had been a large
Scotch immigration which had not weakened the
loyalist element, ioY '' the Scotch," writes Jefferson,
"are the enemies of freedom in every country." At
that time the population of the United States was
7,239,881. The population of the two Canadas was
412,000: only 77,000 of which number were in Upper
Canada. To Jefferson, as now to some of our political
prophets, the matter was a simple sum in arithmetic.
This is not the place to recount the events of the
war. Every man in Upper Canada became a militia-
man. The British officers who commanded were men
formed under the new school of warfare, and although
England, then single handed against the world, could
afford but a limited assistance, the result was, that
when peace was declared, not only were the British
and Canadians in possession of all their present terri-
tory, but they occupied a large portion of Maine on the
AREA. 283
east and the whole of the Micliii^an territory on the
west. The condiu-t of the militia was thus descriheii
in a private pn'ris, made in 1825 at the request of
the I)uke of Wellington, and which was not y)uhlished
until 18(j2 : — " The Canadian militia uniformly be-
*' haved well. The only part izans oi* well-wishers to the
*' Americans were a few^ discontente^l emigi-ants from
" England, who -were dissatisfied without any reason
" and who. pi'obably, as no form of government could
'' have pleased them, w^ould have been equally trouble-
'' some under that of the United States. There were
" fortunately very few settlers of this description.
'' The great majority of the Upi)er Canadians were
" happy, loyal, and contented." JSo, in very truth, they
are at this ])resent day.
These things, and such as these, are not alluded to
save to explain the ])i'esent political character of the
Canadian people, which cannot be understood until
they are taken into account. They are not related in
the English histories, if any induction may be drawn
from the mass of current metropolitan literature on
Canadian subjects. To Canadians they are facts of com-
mon knowledge, and hence the wonder with which they
regard the red-hot annexationists who sometimes
arrive fj'om the British Isles. The remaining history
of Ontai'io is one of j^eaceful progress and develop-
ment — of clearing forests and building cities — of sow-
ing and reaping farm-lands, until the present broad,
fertile and prosperous province was w^on from the
wilderness to civilization.
Area.— The Province of Ontario is stated officially
in the census to extend over an area of 101,733 square
miles. Its boundaries on the north and west are stilly
however, in dispute; and it will rest with the Privy
Council to decide the question finally. If the award of
the boundary arbitrators be sustained, 88,000 square
miles will be added to the Province. The physical
peculiarities of Ontario may be readily apprehended
284 PROVINCE OV ONTAIUO.
by (UvMini; it into tlnvo sections: — Fir>t, Xoi'lherii
Ontario — the Lamenlian coimli'V. north of a lino
almost <lue wo^t tVoni the Thoiisaiwl Islands to Matche-
dash Bay in (ieor^ian Bay. This is a (.'(umtry of
valuable f(M'est land, aboimdin*^- in minerals, thiekl}''
tttiidded with lakes, and intei'seeted l)y stream^. It is
rttill the resort of sportsmen and the source of wealth
to lumbermen, but murh excellent land is being
opened up in the valle3^s as the country is (doared.
The secon<l, whicli ma}' be called Central Ontario,
extends southward of this line to a remarkable rise or
escarpment over whirh the St. Lawrence I'iver falU
at the celebrated cataiact of Niagara, and which
stretches in a north-western direction to Owen Sound
on Georgian Bay. This is a veiy fertile farming
country, level or slightly rolling; L(nver Silurian in
geological formation, consisting of Trenton, Utica,
Hudson River, Medina, Clinton and Niagara beds in
regular succession from the North. The third, which
may be called South-western Ontario, consists of a
rich and level plain sloping down from the summit
of tlie escarpment to the waters of Lakes Huron and
Erie and underlaid by Upper Silurian rocks in ascend-
ing geological order southw^ards to the limits of the
province.
Climate.—The climate is modified by the vicinity of
the lakes. Moreover, as the province extends south-
wards to latitude 42^ that portion in the extreme
south-west enjoys a very mild winter compared with
Quebec or Wisconsin. The winters are not so dry or
unbroken as in Eastern Canada, and, for that reason,
are not so pleasant for outdoor amusements.
Resources.— The Laurentian country, as previously
Btated, abounds in lumber and minerals. On the north
shore of Lake Superior copper is abundant, and the
mines at Silver Islet in a short time yielded silver
ore to an enormous amount. It is, however, as an
AORICI'LTIRAL RESOURCES. 285
agricultural tountry that Ontario is ])re-orninont in
the J)oinini()!i jukI, if it cannot comjK'to in wheat
growing with tlie virgin soil of Maniloha, the harley
of Ontario is unequalled on the continent. Neai'ly the
entii'e export of this ])ro<luct is from this one pro-
vince, and it amounted last year to 86,150,078. All
croj)s possihlc in the temj)erate zone can be grown in
Ontario, and, it the too-enthusiastic native sometimes
talks about the *' semi-tro])ical " regions of his ])i-o-
vince, he is almost justitied ; for the grape vines in
those districts never suffer from IVost, and many of
the ]»each orchards C(nitain 3,000 to 8,000 trees.
Sweet jK)tatoes in that favoui'cd cf)i'ner grow^ as well
as in the Southern States, and the Chinese sugar cane
grows luxuriantly. In 1882 thei'e were 5,002,067
acres of land r.nder grain crops, oi* 48 per cent, of all
the cleared land of the province. The average yield
in that year of fall wheat was 26 bushels, of barley 28
bushels, and of oats 36 bushels to the acre.
Many of the districts of the province are admirably
suited foi* stock raisinii". Thev are, to borrow the words
of the Hon. David Wells, '' the natural habitat on the
continent of the combing wool sheep." The wool
clip of 1882 was 5,746,182 lbs. The business of cattle
]'aising i'or export has only recently sprung up and is
being developed rapidly. These circumstances mark
Ontario out as the premier agricultural province of
the Dominion — not in wheat as compared with Mani-
toba — but in variety and range of vegetable products.
The Provincial Government deserves great credit
for the liberal and practical way in which it is assist-
ing to develope the natural resources of the province.
The Agricultural College and Model Farm at Guelph
should be visited by all interested in such subjects.
The, course extends over two years, covering out-door
and in-door work, and embracing every detail of
practical personal management of the farm and the
live stock upon it, as well as the strictly scientific
subjects, such as Botany and Agricultural Chemistry.
286 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
In 1882, upon this farm, ci'ops were produced of 43
bushels of fall wheat, GO bushels of oats, 205 bushels
of potatoes and 800 bushels of carrots to the acre.
An experimental farm is attached to the institution
for the purpose of making comparative tests of
different species of food plants. The Government, in
establishing and supporting this admirable institution
and in publishing such documents as the Annual
Eeport on Agriculture for 1882, and the Report of the
Agricultural Commission of 1881, is doing a work
which it would be well for the other Provinces to
follow.
Census.— The population of the province in 1881 was
1,923,228, of whom 320,839 are Eoman Catholics. Of
this number 102,743 are French Canadians, and of the
total population 1,525,850 are Canadian born.
Manufactures.— Ontario is not, like Prince Edward
Island, a province of Arcady, growing crops for export
only; but it possesses large manufacturing industries
as well, There are 14 cotton factories, 31 edge tool
works, and 122 agricultural implement establish-
ments, among the 5,829 manufacturing establishments
which made returns to the Provincial Bureau in 1882.
The aggregate of yearly wages earned was $6,741,969.
If the fields are green with crops, the chimneys of the
factories ut Cornwall, Oshawa, Toronto, Dundas and
other manufacturins: centres are black with smoke.
Probably the province of Quebec will, on account of its
large industrial French population, and consequent
abundance of labour, continue to lead in manufactures,
but nevertheless Ontario will always show the farm
and the factory flourishing together.
CITY OF OTTAWA.
Ottawa iw a city of 27,412 inhabitants situated most
picturesquely at tlie junction of the Eideau river with
the Ottawa. Navigation is inteiTupted here by the
Falls of the Chaudiere, a cataract which is remarkable
enough to have impressed even the stolidity of the
Indians ; for in old days they always threw a little
tobacco into the Chaudiere before commencing the
portage to the quiet water above.
Next to Quebec, the scenery around Ottawa is the
most beautiful in the Dominion. The ranire of moun-
tains which closes in the horizon to the north and east,
is the last of the picturesque chain of the Laurentides,
which the ordinary visitor to Canada is likelj' to see if
he travels westward by the usual route. From the
summer house on Parliament hill the view is one not
easily forgotten. The broad river below, the hills
glowing in the sup<et, the Chaudiere white with
spray, and the magniiicent pile of public buildings, all
contribute to form a most striking landscape.
The Ottawa makes here a broad curve. The rapids
commence a few miles above, but at the city, the
channel contracts and the broad and rapid river, ob-
structed and tormented by islands and rocks, fal Is 30 feet
over a steep limestone clitf into a basin well named
the Chaudiere or caldron ; for it is a cavity in the bed
of the river in which the water foams and seethes.
Such a gigantic water-power is of course utilized, and
some of the largest lumber manufactures in the
Dominion are situated here. Close ai: hand are the
timber slides, by which the lumber from the upper
river passes down without damage into the navigable
water below. To go down these slides upon a crib of
timber is a unique experience a visitor should endea-
vour to make ; for, while it is unattended with danger,
the novelty and excitement are most absorbing.
Close lio the city also are the Eideau falls, which
though not approaching the Chaudiere in importance,
288 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
are often visited, .he water-works should also be
examined. They cost $1,014,000, and are planned
upon a system of direct supply by pumping, without
the intervention of a reservoir. Three distinct sets of
pumps are provided, any one of which is sufficient
to supply the wants of double the present population.
The others are available for extra demands, as in the
case of large fires.
The city of Ottawa possesses an especial interest to
Canadians as the political capital. During the session
of Parliament, the most active men in the country are
congregated there, either as members of Parliament,
or as promoters of private legislation, or as tariflt-
doctors, or as volunteer advisers, interested or disin-
terested. Then the entertainments at Eideau Hall are
frequent, for the Governors General like to make the
acquaintance of the active men of the country. News-
paper reporters call this "holding a vice-regal court"
— a stilted expression invented for the headings of tele-
graphic despatches — meaning simply that the Gover-
nors give balls and dinner parties when they wish,
precisely as the Presidents of the United States do.
The people who are invited behave as people usually
do in polite society everywhere. The Governors
General have never assumed the title of Yice-roy.
The expression "Vice-regal court" is "reportorial."
The headquarters and museum of the Geological
Survey are at Ottawa, and all strangers with an
inclination for science will of course call there. The
collections are open for free inspection. No better
w^ay^ of learning quickly the mineral resources and
capabilities of the Dominion can be found than a
careful study of this excellent and extensive museum.
The characteristic " sight" at Ottawa is, jwever,
the magnificent pile of public buildings. They
cover an area of four acres and occupy a very com-
manding site on a bluff upon the river bank. The
central building is 4^2 feet in length, and the tower
over the entrance is 220 feet high. In this building
OTTAWA CITY. 289
all the legislative business of the Dominion is carried
on, and all the departments connected with the
Senate and House of Commons are located in it. The
building to the right of the square contains the
Governor-Generars office, and the Departments of
State, of Finance, of the Intei-ior, of Justice, and of
Inland Revenue. The building on the left contains
the Departments of Customs, of the Post Office, of
Railways, of Public Works, of Agriculture, of the
Marine and Fisheries. The library is the most archi-
tecturally beautiful building for the purpose in
America. It is in the rear of the central building,
connected with it by corridors. It is polygonal in
shape with a buttress at each of its sixteen angles,
upon which are flying buttresses which support the
dome. The height from the floor to the top of the
lantern is 142 feet. The library contains 100,000
volumes. The late librarian, Dr. Alpheus Todd, en-
joyed a deservedly wide reputation for his works on
Parliamentary law.
The leading hotel is the Russell House. There are,
however, several excellent hotels. The Grand Union
and Windsor are comfortable houses.
At Ottawa is the eastern terminus of the Rideau
Canal which leads to Kingston on Lake Ontario.
The distance is 126 miles with a total lockage of 446
feet which is overcome by 47 locks. The locks are
all 110 feet long by 33 feet in width.
MONTREAL TO OTTAWA BY THE CANADA ATLANTIC R. R.
Much of this route lies in Ontario. Trains leave
the Bonaventure station, and, as far as Coteau, the
Grand Trunk road is used. After leaving Montreal the
first stoppage is at St. Henri, where the train crosses
the main track leading to Yictoria Bridge. The road
runs on low alluvial land occupied in recent times by
a lake and stream. On the right is the terrace mark,
ing the former bank. As Dorval station is ap-
19
290 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
proached the train comes out into view of Lake St.
Louis. The viihige of Lachine is seen on the left.
Across the hike is Caughnawaga, and Isle Dorval is
near the western shore. Still following the lake,
Point Claire appears on the left. The quairies may
he seen from the cars. From thence the lake divides.
The St. Lawrence channel follows the southern shore
and the train follows up the Ottawa channel until it
reaches
St. Anne's bout-de-l'Isle, immortalized b}^ Moore, and
where the fond native will point out the house in which
the Boat Song was written. And, in veiy truth, the place
is important, for does not a distinguished author write
''it is the only historical spot in Canada, because here
Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat Song"! The
native was too much for the author ; for Tom Moore
came down the St. Lawrence, not the Ottawa, in
a batteau. Still it is nice to have one historical
spot to show strangers. Moore's facts are correct.
All the north-west trade went by thj Ottawa and
Lake Mpissing to Lake Huron; and the voyageurs,
when leaving civilization for their adventuious jour-
ney had many little escapades to confide to " la bonne
Ste. Anne," the patron saint of all who travel by land
or water in the Indian territory, so that with a clear
conscience they might start on their perilous way.
The train crosses one of the mouths of the Ottawa by
an iron bridge, next in importance to the Victoria
Bridge, foi* this is a formidable river when it wakes
up in spring. Isle Perrot is then passed and the
Ottawa is finally crossed by another iron bridge before
the train arrives at
Vaudreuil. — The railway now follows the St. Law-
rence valley; and that river will, from time to time,
appear upon the left until
Coteau, is reached ; where the Canada Atlantic Eail-
way will switch ofi' the trains for the capital of the
OTTAWA RIVER. 291
Dominion. Up to this station the route is in the
Province of Quebec.
The route to Ottawa by the Canadian Pacific is
entirely within the Province of Quebec. It is de-
scribed at p. 248.
OTTAWA TO MONTREAL BY STEAMER.
A summer's day may be pleasantly spent in this
trip, and, as the steamer runs the Lachine Rapids,
it has a double attraction for a tourist.
The boats are good, the meals well prepared, and
the officers polite and attentive. The Ottawa, or
''Grand River" of the early voyaf/eurs, is a stream
of the first importance. It is six hundred miles
long, and has twenty tributaries of large size, be-
sides many smaller. It is broader 280 miles from
its mouth than it is between Ottawa and the Lake
of Two Mountains, and flows with such a strong and
deep flood that the blue waters of the great St. Law-
rence are pressed against the southern shoi*e.
Leaving the capital of the Dominion behind, the
tourist will see on the north side the mouth of the
Gatineau, a large and important lumbering stream,
which has been surveyed for three hundied miles
from its junction. Messrs. Gilmour's mills are situ-
ated at Chelsea, about nine miles up the river.
Eighteen miles further, the Lievre river, after a
course of 280 miles, falls into the Ottawa. Upon this
river, four miles from the steamboat landing, is
the village of Buckingham. Here are two very
extensive lumbering establishments. The water
power of the Lievre is enormous, for the river is
very deep and has a fall at Buckingham of nearly
seventy feet. Here are also mines of ]) lumbago, of
phosphates and of mica.
The North Nation river is the next large tributary
on the Quebec side, and the South Nation on the
Ontario or south side. These two streams have each
292 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
a course of nearly 100 miles. Papineaiiville. on the
North Nation, is a thriving little village, with lum-
ber and grist mills, and water-power in abundance.
These rivers biing into the Ottawa, in spring
flood, a larger volume of w^ater than can readily pass
through the lower rapids, and hence the interval land
is flooded in spring.
Five miles from Papineauville is Montebello, where
the seignior of Petite Nation, the late Hon. Louis
Joseph Papineau, resided. His name Alls many
pages of Canadian history. After his pardon and re-
turn from banishment, he mingled very little in
politics, but lived to see many of the dreams of his
turbulent youth and manhood realized by other
hands. His courteous manners and quiet bearing
will long be remembered by all who met him in the
retirement of his old age.
Eighteen miles from Papineauville the boat stops
at L'Orignal, the county town of the united counties
of Prescott and Eussell. Here travellers for Caledonia
Springs disembark. The springs are in the hilly
country nine miles from the river, and have great
efficacy in rheumatic and gouty diseases. There is a
good hotel there. Nearly opposite, a few miles lower
down on the north shore, is Grenville. The river here
passes close to the Laurentian mountains, and, nar-
]-owed also by islands, flows swiftly down the Longue
Sault Eapids, or " Chute- a-Blondeau " in a foaming and
impetuous torrent, which stops all navigation, except
that of dowmvard-bound lumber rafts. Passengers
and baggage are transferi-ed to a short railway,
which connects Grenville with Carillon twelve miles
distant, at the foot of the rapids, w^here all are
re-embarked. The difficulties of navigation are over-
come by a canal, but the company, to avoid delay,
provides adiiferent service of steamers below Carillon.
The mountains around Grenville abound in valuable
minerals. The bands of crystalline limestone found
here in the Laurentian gneiss make this a favouinte
OTTAWA RIVr.R. 293
ground for geologists. In these limestones the Eozoon
Canadense was tirst identified as a fossil.
On the islands and south shore is the village of
Hawkesbury ; and the mills of the Messrs. Hamilton
are built upon the islands. The>e mills are the largest
upon the Ottawa river, and employ about 500 hands.
The Eiver Eouge falls into the Ottawa close to Gren-
ville, above the rapids, and the mills are largely
supplied with logs from the Rouge. Any one desir-
ous of seeing lumber mills upon a large scale could
not do better than visit this great and prosperous
establishment.
The sportsman will find Grenville the most conven-
ient point of departure for the wild and romantic
lake country of the Laurentian hills. This tract
resembles the Adirondack i-egion of Xew York in its
geological formation, as well as in its abundant lakes
and streams, and has, moreover, the advantage of
being less frequented, and consequently of being more
abundant in fish. The whole country is dotted over
with lakes, and, with short " portages " from stream
to stream, the sportsman can go great distances in
a canoe. It is a very healthy tract also for camp-
ing out.
At Carillon, passengers for St. Andrews and
Lachute will find conveyances in waiting. These
are two towns upon the Riviere du Nord, which
empties into the Ottawa a little below Carillon.
The country is rich and fertile, and is especially
noted for its excellent dairy farming. Through pas-
sengers take the steamboat which immediately
crosses over to Point Fortune. This is the first
point upon the south shore belonging to the Pro-
vince of Quebec, for hitherto the river has been the
boundary between the two provinces.
Here upon the Quebec side is the Thermopyla)
of Canada w^here a deed of " derring-do " was per-
formed than which no greater is recorded in his-
tory. In 1660 the colony was on the eve of de-
294 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
struction. The full force of the Iroquois tribes was
in arms to sweep the French into the St. Lawrence.
Bollard des Ormeaux and IG younc; Montrealers
resolvetl upon a deed which should teach the
Indians a lesson. They bound themselves by an oath
neither to give nor take quarter. They made their
wills, and took the sacrament in the little church at
Montreal. Then they started up Lake St. Louis and
the Ottawa to this point, where they built a palisaded
fort. Some Indians had joined them, but durini;' the
fight which ensued only three or four Algonquins re-
mained faithful. Soon the Iroquois canoes came danc-
ing down the rapids. A war party of 300 wai'riors
had been up the i-iver. They speedily discovered
the fort and rushed to attack it. Da}" after day they
met with a bloody repulse. Sullen with rage they
sent for reinforcements until more than 800 war-
riors surrounded the palisades. The story is well
told in George Murray's ballad :
" Eight days of varied horror passed ; what boots it now to
tell
How the pale tenants of the fort heroically fell ?
Hunger, and thirst, and sleeplessness, Death's ghastly aids,
at length.
Marred and defaced their comely forms, and quelled their
i^^iant strength.
The end draws nigh — they yearn to die — one glorious
rally more,
For tlie dear sake of Ville-Marie and all will soon be o'er ;
Sure of the martyr's golden Crown, they shrink not from
the Cross,
Life yielded for the land they love, thev scorn to reckon
loss."
They died, every one, fighting to the last gasp ;
nor could the Iroquois take one alive for torture.
The story was told by some of the treacherous
Hui'Ons. The Iroquois lost so many of their bravest
warriors that they returned forthwith to their own
country. They had had enough of fighting the
French for several years.
OTTAWA RIVER. 205
After leavini^ Point Fortune the steamer enters the
Lake of Two Mountains, where tlie Ottawa widens out
into one of those beautiful expanses wliich vary the
scenery of Canadian rivers. Eigau<l Mountain stands
upon the right, a bold and srpiafe mountain sur-
mounted by a cross, and belonginijc ^^ the same family
of igneous mountains with those which start up from
the prairie land around ^[ontreal. Upon the summit
of this mountain is a vei'V sini^ular v>lateau, covered to
a gi'eat depth with rounded boulder-stones each about
the size of a man's liead. These stones consist maiidy
of diflerent rock from tlie mass of the mountain, and
they lie in long ridges as if turned up by a plough.
The natives have styled this place very appropriately
the '' Devil's Garden." The Geological report of 18G3,
classified it under the heading of " moraines." The
name bestowed upon it by the unscientific native is
probably the more descriptive of the two. Perhaps
both are wrong. An explanation which shall ex]3lain
is much needed.
At the foot of the mountidn is the pretty town of
Rigaiid, on the Riviere a la Graisse, thriving and clean,
and bright, with its tinned roofs. There is a large
French college here. The town is two miles from the
steamboat landing.
Steaming down through the lake, the boat makes
a short call at St. Placide and Pointe-aux-Anglais,
both on the north bank. The level country and the
still and glassy surface of the lake, reflecting the
elms on the low bank, make St. Placide the proper
tutelary saint for the locality. Soon the lake narrows
and the boat stops at Hudson on the right bank. Here
large glass works were established, but being unsuc-
cessful, have been abandoned.
The next stop is made at Como, a favorite summer
resort of Montrealers.
Leaving Como the boat crosses to Oka. This is an
Indian village upon a seigniory granted by Louis XIV
to the Sulpicians on certain specified conditions re-
296 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
gardini;- the Indijuis. The Ali^onquiiis and licxiuois
huts are soj)arated l>y tlu' cluircli and prosln'lero. A
conmmnity of Tra]))>ist Moidcs are raimini;- here.
J^isinii; u[) boliiiid OUa arc the two inoinitains tVom
whicli the lake dei'ives its name. The one with the
cross is Mount Cahaiy. diapels. seven in numher, are
built at intervals up the ascent for the seven stations
of the Cross. This i)ili»-riinaice is often made bv the
faithful, and much bodily as well as spiritual good is
stated to liave resulted.
The lake now widens out ; far on the i-ight is the
tinned s]^ireof tlie parish ehui'ch of Vaudreuil gleam-
ing in the level ray> of the setting sun. On the left
extend the two northern l)ranches of the emhouchure
of the river whieh, after passing in rear of the island
of ;^[ontreal, and enclosing Isle Jesus, unite with the
St. Lawi'cnce below. Ahead is seen the ]M)int of the
island of Monti-eal and the village of St. Anne's, with
the picturesque ruined fort Senneville, reminding us
of Indian wars of bj'gone years, and the stitt* and
formal bridge telling us of the engineering victories
of the present age. Truly, if we do overcome Nature,
she has her revenge in the astounding ugliness of
our handiwork when compareil with hei-s. When our
constructions fall into ruin she works them up into
picturesqueness, and festooning them with verdure,
smothers their hard and ungraceful outlines.
The boat now ari'ives at St. Anne's, and passes
through a lock to avoid the I'apids. See page 290.
Leaving St. Anne's the boat enters upon the broad
waters of Lake St. Louis. The little village of Pointe
Claire is passed u])on the left. Then the beautifully
wooded Isle Dorval, formerly the summer residence
of Sir Cxeoi'ge Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay
Company. At last the town of Lachine is reached, the
former headquarters of the same company, and where
their storehouses and the Governor's residence were
situated. Lachine has become almost a summer suburb
of Montreal, and even in winter many Montrealers
UPPER ST. LAWRENCE. 207
reside there. Thoy iiinuso themselves with hoatiiinr^
and regattas are held on the lake very frequenti}'. Hero
on the-4tli of August, IGSl), fourteen hundred Irocjuois
hmded an<l swept the ishind of iidiahitants up to the
walls of the forts. Hundreds of eolonists were buteher-
ed, and hundreds earrie<l away prisoners. It is a black
da}' in Canadian annals, known as the day of " the
Massacre of Lachine."
The steamer touches at Lachine to take on board
any who wish to go down the rapids to Montreal.
THE UPPER ST. LAWRENCE.
Kingpston to Montreal by the river. — The rajdds of
the St. Lawrence can be seen only by tourists arriving
from the w^est. p]verv one coming- to America sees, or
•- CD f
should see, the Falls of Niagara. Xot much interest
attaches to tiie sail from there down Lake Ontario ;
80 that the better plan is to take the Grand Trunk
Eailway from Niagara Falls or from Toronto, to King-
ton, and there to take the steamer for Montreal.
Kingston is a quiet city which has played an impor-
tant I'ole in Canadian history. The tirst settlement
there was made in 1673, wdien the Count de Frontenac,
to the intense annoyance of the Iroquois, took up 400
men from Montreal, who in a week built works,
made clearings, and established a firm foothold before
the Indians knew what his real intentions w^ere.
Behind Frontenac was Eobert Cavelier de la Salle —
one of those heroic souls who beat out their lives
against the bars of fiite rather than yield. He was
called a visionary, but he was really a seer. He first
saw the boundless field for entei-prise in the rich val-
leys of the Ohio and Mi8sissipj)i. He had a small
seigniory a little above Montreal, and the quick-
tongued-Fi-enchmen called the place '' Lachine " in
derision of his hopes of tindmg an outlet to the China
seas, a name which it still retains. To LaSalle, who
208 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
li:i<l sold his sei<^niory, Frontonuc ic»'i^nte(l Cataraqui,
or Fort Fi'ontonac, en seujneurie, and tliero the intre-
pid ])ioneer hiiilt the tii'st vessel wliieh sailed upon
Lake Ontario.
Tempting indeed is the theme. Pens there arc, enough
and to spare, to relate the deeds of* the favourites of
fortune; hut the struggles and disappointments of tlie
men who lived hefore their time tind verv few his-
toi'ians. As the story is related in the ekupient pages
of Franeis Fai'kman, a whole Odyssey of heroic etfort
is unrolled ; relic^ved, in its sadder jjassages, by the
fidelity of the gay and chivali'ous de Tonty; but all
summed uj) in the touehing name iWvecmir (Heart-
l)i*eak) which La Salle gave to his fort on the Illinois
river. Jfe understood, one hundred and fifty years
too soon, the importance of the portage at Chicago.
A nameless grave near the mouth of the Mississippi
river was his recom})ense.
As the fortunes of La Salle waned, Fort Frontenac
was neglected. Frontenac, his patron, was recalled;
and the L-oquois, missing Ids firm hand, swept to
death or captivity every human being outside of the
palisades of the forts. Frontenac, recalled, like Corio-
lanus, to rescue the perishing colony, found, to his
great disgust, that Fort Frontenac had been aban-
doned and dismantled. Contrary to the wishes of the
king, the opposition of the English at Albany, and
the threats of the L*oquois, he re-establishecl it in
1695. Since that time it has been maintained as the
key fort of the upper St. Lawrence. During the wai*
of 1812, and so long as the British maintained a naval
force upon the lakes, it was a most important point
as the dockyard and arsenal of Lake Ontario. From
1841 to 1844, after the union of Upper and Lowei'
Canada, Kingston was the seat of government.
Although it is now of less relative importance in the
Dominion, it is yet important as a place for the tran-
shipment of grain. The Eoyal Military College is
situated there — an institution established by the
THE TIIOrsAND ISLANDS. 290
Dominion Govornmont for tlic trainin<j: of staff and
engineer officcrH. The odiicatioii '^Mven is similar to
tliat of Woolwich Collcifc, and a certain number of
commissions in the Imperial Army are annuaKy
allotted to successful students. At' Kintrston also
is the University of Queen's College— an im|K)rtant
institution connected with the rieshyterian Church
of CanJida, with Vl proti'ssors, and 174 students in
arts and t]ieoloo;y. Attilialed to the University are
two Medical Scho(>ls — the lloyal Colle^eof Thysjcians
and Suri^^eons, witli 11 ])rofessors and fMJ students^
and the Women's ^Ie<lical (V)lle<j^e, with 12 prcjfessors
and 11 students. A school of Law has been organized,
but it is not workini; successi'ullv.
Queen's (V)llege is remarkable as the only university
in Canada where the " sweet girl graduates " of the
poet are met with. Tn tlie classes of 1884 were two
lady Bachelors of Arts and three lady Doctors in Medi-
cine. A woman was lirst in the class of medicine.
Of the three gold medallists of 1884 two were of the
weaker sex. Co-education in medicine was not found
practicable; and, therefore, last year the Women's
College was started. The ladies' names were high up
in all the classes, excepting in theology, which they
do not seem to have attempted — a thing to be
wondered at, in view of the facts of Bible liistoiy and
the moral elevation and didactic turn of the femi-
nine mind.
The Thousand Islands.— The steamers descending the
St. Lawrence leave Kingston at an early hour so as to
arrive at Montreal in time to connect with the boat
for Quebec. The large and fertile AVolfe Island is
passed upon the right after leaving, but it is not until
Gananoque is reached that the Thousand Islands
properly commence. There are in reality over 1600
of them packed in a river-stretch of 40 miles. At this
point the Laurentian rocks break through the Silurian,
and reach across the St. Lawrence, in this belt of
300 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
islands, to iiiiite witli the great Laufcntian outlier,
the Adirondack roicion in the State of New York.
'Canadians are sometimes chaiged with undue appreci-
ation of the scenery among these islands. The Duke
of Argyle, for instance, thought little of the islands,
but was impresseil by the rapids of the St. Lawrence.
It will be safer, then, to let others speak. Here is
'Charles Dickens in his *' American Notes.'' He started
from Kingston.
^' The beauty of this noble stream at almost any point, but
especially in the commencement of the journey, where it
winds its way among the Thousand Islands can hardly be
imagined. The numl^er and constant succession of these
islands, all green and richly wooded; their fluctuating sizes,
some so large that, for half an hour together, one among
them will appear as the opposite bank of the river, and some
so small tliat they are mere dimples on its bosom — their
infinite variety of shai^es, and the numberless combinations
of beautiful forms which the trees growing on them present
— all form a i)icture fraught with uncommon interest and
pleasure."
So far, Dickens ; but, not long after, there came from
Prance a celebrated traveller and litterateur^ Xavier
Marmiei*, who, writing in anothei- language, waxeth
eloquent and saith :
" Imagine a vast English park with its massive trees, its
hills and slopes, and its lans of verdure. Replace its green
turf with water, blue, transparent, and crystalline. Do I
give you in the comparison some idea of this beautiful lake ?
So, I dare not hoj)e this. Over an area twelve leagues
long and two or three wide on whichever side you turn
your eyes you see nothing but islands of every kind and
form — some raising their pyramidal heads boldly above
the water, others lying just above the level of the river as if
bowed to receive its blessing as it passed. Some are bristling
with firs and pines, others lie open and level like a field
aw^aiting the husbandman's care. Some are but an arid rock
as wild and picturesque as those w^e see among the Faroe
Islands ; others have a group of trees or a solitary pine, and
others bear a crown of flowers or a little hillock of verdure
like a dome of malachite, among which the river slowly
THE ST. LAWRENCE RAPIDS. 301
glides, embracing with equal fondness the great and the
small, now receding afar and now retracing its course, like
the good patriarch visiting his domains, or like the god
Proteus counting his snowy flocks."
A little florid — but Marmier's inimitable style suffers
in translation. There is, then, an excuse lor Cana-
dians who camp out upon these islands and sail among
them if they also admire them very much.
On the American side are two fashionable resorts —
Clayton and Alexandria Bay, with large hotels ; and
the bay is lively with boats and steam-yachts. A great
island of 8,000 acres has been secured by the Meth-
odists and Presbyterians ; and there they hold camp
meetings and religious exercises, conventions, etc.,
each religious body on its own end of the island.
It is known as the Thousand Island Park and is laid
out in drives and walks and groves, and sold out in
villa lots in order that everything may conduce to the-
summer re-habilitation of the spiritual as well as the
physical man. There are people who resist edification.
To these the Neic York Herald remarks : ^' a million
" of people could be swallowed up in these vast soli-
" tudes without interfering with each other's routes
'' or pleasures." A million is a great many, but a
newspaper statemenc always possesses a substratum
of truth.
The Rapids In Canada, as has been pointed out in
the case of Ste. Anne's, we cannot do without Tom
Moore. Great luminaries of the law who have irra-
diated this continent, and great publicists, have passed
us by and have gone back from Niagara to Xew Yoi'k
by rail ; but a poet has insight and a love for beauti-
ful scenery, so ruther than be bumped on a stage for
500 miles, Moore preferred gliding down the St. Law-
rence in a batteau, even though he had to camp on
the bank every night. In the river trip there is
variety, for a ride in a Pullman in America does not
differ from a ride in a Pullman anywhere else. Those
302 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
"who are open to the sweet influences of nature should
with the poet,
" tread this wondrous world.
See all its store of inland waters hurled
In one vast volume down Niagara's steep,
Or calm behold them, in transparent sleep,
Where the blue hills of old Toronto shed
Their evening shadows o'er Ontario's bed ;
Should trace the grand Cadarqui, and glide
Down the white rapids of his lordly tide,
Through mossy woods, 'mid islets flowering fair,
And bloming glades, where the first sinful pair
For consolation might have weeping trod,
When banished from the garden of their God."
Cataraqui was the Iroquois name for Kingston. It
was sometimes applied also to the river.
After passing Prescott and Ogdensburgh (the old
Oswegatchie) concerning which much might be said,
the rapids commence.
Chimney Island, formerly Isle Royale, upon the
right, was the site of a strong French fort, and the ruins
are yet visible. It was built by de Levis and called
after him. Two miles further are the Galops Eapids,
-extending about two miles. Isle-aux-Galops is on the
right. On the left the Junction Canal may be seen. At
Point Iroquois, six miles further down, are the Iroquois
Hapids. Three miles from Point Iroquois another
rapid commences. The Rapide Plat Canal is seen on
the left and Ogden's Island on the right. So far the
rapids are unimportant, and, if it were not for the
upward bound heavily laden barges, these canals would
hardly be needed. The course of the river is pretty
■clear of islands for 10 miles ; but when Farren's Point
is reached, the Upper Long Sault commences. A short
canal is on the left at Farran's Point, and on the oppo-
site side of the channel is Croyle's Island. These three
canals are collectively known as the Williamsburg
canals. They are not used by ascending passenger
boats. After passing these, there are four and a half
THE ST. LAWRENCE RAPIDS. 303
miles of quiet water before the Cornwall canal com-
mences and the steamer begins to labour in the Longue
Sault Eapids. They are 12 miles long. The total
fall from Farran's Point is 48 feet. The Longue
Sault Island is the tirst upon the right. Then
the current wliiids between Sheek's Island on the
left, and Barnhart's Island on the right. A mile of
quiet w^ater succeeds when the steamer pitches herself
down the north channel having the town of Cornwall
on the left and Cornwall Island on the right. At the
end of Cornwall Island the line of 45° strikes the St.
Lawrence. Thenceforth the teri-itory on both banks
is Canadian. Soon the river expands into Lake St.
Francis, and takes bi'eath for a stretch of 22 miles
before another jump. The village on the point at the
right is the Indian village of St. Eegis, W' ere Mrs.
Sigourney and some other writers erroneously sup-
pose the church bell was carried in 1704 when the
French and Indians raided Deertield. Midway on the
north shore the little river Beaudette falls in, mark-
ing the boundary of Ontario on the east.
The village of Coteau du Luc is seen on the left
where the banks close in and the river is obstructed
by islands. Here the ra])ids j-e-commence ; and in the
distance on the right is the entrance to the Beauhar-
nois Canal. The village is soon passed in the swift
rush of the current. On a point on the main shore
are the remains of a fort, which was considered veiy
important as commanding the chief channel. This
channel is now, however, not so much used for steam-
boats as for rafts. The steamers pass between Prison-
ers' Island and Broad Island, the next channel to the
south. These i-apids are three miles long and are dis-
tinguished as the Coteau rapids. The boat now glides
through quieter water for five miles, between the north
shore of the mainland on the left and Grand Island
on the right. As the island terminates and the village
of Cedars is approached, the river narrows very much
and grows very turbulent. Small rocky islets impede
304 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
the current, and the boat is .swiftly whirled for a mile
and a half through the Cedars rapids. Here in 1*760,
General Amherst, when advancing to capture Monti'cal,
lost sixty-four of his boats. Eighty-eight of his men
were lost, besides artillery and stores. Here also, in
17*76, Captain Forster, with forty regulars, forty-one
Canadian militiamen, and 250 Indians, captured a for-
tified post of the continental army and made prisoners
of the garrison, 390 in number. The same enterpris-
ing officer the next day defeated, near Yaudreuil, a
detachment sent to relieve the post fj-om Arnold's
army, then at Montreal. Finding it difficult to restrain
the Indians, he sent all his prisoners to Arnold under
a cartel of exchange, which Congress afterwards
refused to ratify.
Upon che right, on the south shore, is the village of
St. Timoth^e ; three miles of a (juieter current now
intervene, 'before the steamer enters the Cascades
Eapids, where a sudden fall in the river-bed causes
the waves to rebound from the rocks and islets in
that peculiar manner which has given a name to the
locality. Immediately after passing these rapids the
river widens out again into the broad expanse of Lake
St. Louis. In a course of 12 miles the river has
dropped 82i feet.
Upon entering the lake the tourist will see on the left
Isle Perrot, and on the right the village of Beauhar-
nois. A portion of the Eiver Ottawa here falls into
the St. Lawrence, and Isle Perrot is embraced by
its two westernmost arms. At Isle Perrot Amherst
delayed a day to repair damages to his boats after
passing the rapids. The lake is fifteen miles long and
seven miles wide at its widest part. When it com-
mences to narrow, the Chateauguay river is seen
upon the right. The island at its mouth is called
Nuns' Island, and is the property of the Grey Sisters
of Montreal, to whom the seigniory also belongs.
Isle St. Bernard is the proper designation of the island.
There is a mound upon it which has the appearance of
OTTAWA TO TORONTO 305
a work of the old Mound-builders. It has never been
opened. If it be their ^vork it is the farthest point
eastwards where traces of this mysterious peoj)le will
have been found. The Chateauguay river recalls to a
Canadian one of the most stirring episodes of the war
of 1812 — the repulse of General Hampton by an insigni-
ficant force of Canadian militia under Colonel de Sala-
berry. This defeat prevented the junction of two
American armies, and decided the result of a year's
campaign in Lower Canada. As the Lachine rapids
are entered the village of Caughnawaga is passed on
the right and Lachine on the left. For the continua-
tion of the route to Montreal see p. 241.
O'xPAWA TO TORONTO.
' ♦ ■
Whoever leaves' Canada without seeing Toronto
will carry away a most imperfect impression of the
Canadian people. Besides, Toronto is on the way
to Niagara Falls ; and if any one returns to England
without seeing that famous spot no one will believe
him if he says he has travelled in America.
Hitherto, the traveller westw^ards from Ottawa had
to return to the St. Lawrence at Brockville, but the
Canadian Pacific has this summer opened a new route
through the heart of the country. It passes through
a new and mostly unsettled district, in which there is
little of interest for a stranger. Until Peterboro' is
reached the route is over that northern section of
Ontario described, p. 284, as Laurentian. Interesting
no doubt to the lumberer, the miner and the sports-
man — abounding in sparkling lakes and running
streams, but not inviting to the settler in a country
where land is so cheap. The more important sta-
tions are
Gaxleton Place, on the Mississippi Eiver, a small
lumbering stream ; and Perth, a stirring little county
town. After passing Moberlev, the train crosses
20
306 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
Shurbot Lake at the IS'arrows. At Tweed the Moira
river, an important lumbering stream, is crossed. At
Madoc, is the region where gold has been found. The
Central Ontai-io Railway crosses here, a road which
is being pushed up into the iron region at this point
in order to bring to market the rich ores of the
district on the north. The Crow river is ci'ossed, and
at Blairton the Coboui'g and Marmora Railway —
another railway built for minerals — is intersected.
Peterboro, is an important town of 8,000 inhabi-
tants, where the Otonabee river, in the space of
nine miles, rushes down an incline of 147 feet, and,
on the way down, does a vast amount of useful work.
From this point as a centre, a whole realm of wild
beauty opens out to tPie lt)ver of iiature, quiet lakes
innumerable, flashing water-falls, sparkling streams,
abounding in fish and in game. This is the place
where the Eice lake canoe was invented, and in it the
whole territory can be traversed with few portages.
Through this region, down the Trent, came in early
times the ubiquitous Champlain from Lake Huron,
leading the Huron raid into Iroquois-land across Lake
Ontario. Just on the verge are we here of the quieter
landscape and fruitful fields of Central Ontario, to-
wards which he whose holidays in the wilderness are
over i-eluctantly paddles.
At Myrtle Station, Lake Scugog is reached and the
Whitby and Port Perry Railway is crossed. At last
passing Yorkville, a subui-b of the city, the train
arrives at Carleton, or Toronto Junction.
In taking this route to Toronto the traveller will
have overshot all the important towns of the lake
shore. He will have passed the lovely quiet
scenery of the Bay of Quinte ; Belleville, where is
Albert L'niversity with 11 professors and a crowd
of students ; Cobourg, where is situated Victoria
University, whose Medical Faculty we met with at
Montreal (p. 208), at Cobourg are the Faculties of Arts
CITY OF TORONTO. 307
and Theology with 10 professors ; Port Hope, the busy
port of the Midland Eailway ; Bowmanville; Oshawa
and many other manufacturing towns, all traversed
by the Grand Trunk Railway and the centres of
long established farming districts.
CITY OF TORONTO.
The name Toronto was originally applied to the
whole district in the neighbourhood of Lake Simcoe.
Thus, on some old maps, (Teorgian Bay is Toronto
Bay, Lake Simcoe is Toronto Lake, and the Severn
and Humber rivers are both called Toronto river, and
the old writers use the word in as wide an applica-
tion. The town which Governor . Simcoe founded
(p. 282; he called York, and it was not until 1834,
when the city was incorporated, that the musical
Iroquois word Toronto"^ (signifying trees in the
water) was adopted and limited to this place. As
early as 1749 it was recognized as an important
locality, for the Indians from the north used to pass
up the Severn, across Lake Simcoe, and make a port-
age to the Humber, which here falls into Lake Ontario.
It was to cut off this trade from going to Chouagen
(Oswego) that the French built a fort and ti'ading
post at the mouth of the Humber, which they called
Fort Rouille. This had been long abandoned when
Simcoe founded the present city.
From the Humber on the west to the Don on the
east, the harbour of Toronto extends, well sheltered
from storms on the lake by a long spit of land, which,
having been cut by the waves, is called the Island.
The city owes very little to Nature besides this shel-
tered bay. It haa been made what it is by the
enterprise and energy of it^ inhabitants. In 1834 the
*Vide Cuoq, Lexique de la langiie Iroquoise, p. 51. The long low spit
of land forming the harbour, when it was densely wooded, would natur-
ally suggest this name for the district opened up by a portage thus identi-
fied from the lake.
308 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
population was 9,254; and in 1881, only 47 year»
later, it Ih given in the censiis as 86,415. Including
the subui'bs it would reach about 103,000.
To the English people of old Canada, Toronto is
what Quebec is to the French — the centime and heart of
the race. Montreal, as the meeting point of all, has a
cosmopolitan character peculiarly its own ; but
Toronto is English through and through. There the
solid qualities of the English race, its enterpj-ise and
commercial ability, are quickened by the demands of
.: new country and rendered more versatile by the
exigencies of a rapidly advancing civilization. In
Quebec city, in 1832, the population was 30,924, and in
1881, 62,446. So that, while the j^opulation of Quebec
was doubled, that of Toronto has multiplied tenfold.
This difference is mainly due to the opening up of the
western country, but something is due to the com-
mercial genius of the peo2)le. That point was very
well put by an eloquent Abb^ in a speech at the
great St. Jean Baptiste celebration in 1884. He said
that '' the mission of the French-Canadian people
*' was the dissemination of the Catholic faith, while
" the mission of the English was commercial." Al-
though the numerous steeples of Toronto will demon-
strate that the people of that city are not unmindful
of their religious duties, it must be admitted that the
dominant energies of the Anglo-Saxon race in
America have been expended in the practical pur-
suits of commerce, and the rewards of this present
world have followed in corresponding proportion.
The eschatological question underlying the subject it
is, fortunately, not the business of the present writer
to discuss.
Toronto is more to Ontario than any other city in
Canada is to its respective province. It is the poli-
tical, commercial, legal, religious, literary and educa-
tional centre of Ontario. Therefore, the influence of
Toronto, as of Quebec, is disproportionately great ;
while the influence of Montreal, being the meeting-
CITY OF TORONTO. 309
point of the two races and langiiaj^es is less provincial
and eoDscquently, is disj)roportionately small in the
central government.
Trade.— The imports at the port of Toronto for the
year 1883 were $18,034,451. The statistics of ex-
ports are of no value, as they do not give the amount
of exports eastwai'ds.
Hotels.— The city is well supplied with good hotels.
Chief are the Queen's Hotel and the Eossin House,
among the most comfortable hotels in Canada. The
Queen's is immediately facing the lake, and the
Rossin House is more in the centre of the city. In
either, of them the traveller will find ever}' comfort.
Railways.— Much of the pro^jperi ty of the city has
been caused by the enterprise which at an early
date centred so many railways here. A glance at
the map will show the railway lines reaching out
fan-like in all directions, and drawing the business
of the whole peninsula to a focus.
Parks and Squares.— In this respect the city is highly
favoured. Queen's Park, though not beautiful, is an
old favourite. It contains a monument to the youth
of the Queen's Own Volunteers who fell at Eidgeway
at the time of the Fenian raid in 1866. They were
young lads, of the College Company for the most part,
who fell. The Fenian forces had been drilling for
months in their armories and parading the United
States cities in uniform, with all the pomp and cir-
cumstance of war, before they invaded Canada.
When the raid failed and they returned, they were
arrested and disarmed by the United States troops,
but they got their rifles back in a day or two. The
British G-o\ernment solemnly thanked the United
States Government !
'there are many other parks of greater attractions
— the Exhibition Park, the Horticultural Gardens,
310 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
Rivcrdale Park, Victoria Pai'k, High Park, and
especially fhe Island Park on the island which shel-
tei'S Toronto harbour. Jt is reached by a feri'V. On
it is the hotel presented by public subscription to
Edward Hanlan, who lives here, the undisputed
champion oarsman of the world. If any one should
go to Toronto and not know this, it would be better
to dissimulate than incur, by open confession, the pity
of the inhabitants.
Public Buildings.— These, for the most part, are
handsome. The Parliament Buildings ai-e not what
they should be, but the Province is preparing plans
for new buildings which shall be a credit to the
city. The Dominion Government has erected a very
handsome Custom House and Post Office, and an
Observatory. The Insane Asylum and the Mercer
Reformatory for Women are in eveiy respect woi-thy
monuments of the practical philanthropy of the
people. In Osgood Hall Toronto possesses a digni-
fied teraple of justice. The Toronto Bar is a bril-
liant one, for the Law Courts are more centralized
than in Quebec, where, owing to a mania for de-
centralization, the Bar is frittered away over the
Province.
Churches.— The city can boast of many beautiful
churches. Chief among them are the Metropolitan
Methodist Church, admirable in its internal arrange-
ment and handsome in its exterior architecture, the
centre of Wesleyan Methodism in old Canada. St.
Andrew's Church (Presbyterian) is remarkable for
the massive strength of its style, and would arrest
attention in any city. It is not easy to characterize
the architecture by one word. The arches are Nor-
man and the building has a castellated appearance
owing to the narrow windows and tourelles on the
towers. St. James Cathedral (Church of England) is
the see of the Bishop of Toronto, a very fine church
CITY OF T.JR.>NTO. 311
in Gothic style, whose lofty 8i)ire can be seen from
a great distance rising above all others. St. Micliaers
Cathedral (i^)inan Catholic) is a vei'v tine example
of Gothic, worthy to be the seat of the Archbishop.
It is grand in style and tinished in detail. All these
four churches are remarkable also for position. The
sites are ample in size and chosen with Judgment, so
that no ett'ect of architecture is marred by the sur-
roundings.
EDUCATION.
This is the stj'ong point of Toronto, and, indeed of
the whole province ; for Ontario is the only province
in the Dominion where the Minister of Education
has a seat in the Cabinet. No argument can, how-
ever, be based upon that, for it is a recent and
doubtful change. Chief among the objects of in-
terest are, —
TheUniversity of Toronto.— This institution is based
upon an ample endowment of public lands set aside
for the purpose from the first settlement of the Pro-
vince. The buildings of University College were
erected in 1859. They are situated in Queen's Park,
and in dignity of appearance ai*e not surpassed by
any University buildings in America. No tourist
should fail to visit them. The College is not now
connected with any religious body. It is the Faculty
of Arts of the University, and has a staff of 20 pro-
fessors and lectm'ers, with nearly 400 students in
attendance.
University of Trinity College, founded by Bishop
Strachan when University College was secularized.
The buildings will accommodate eighty students, and
are very advantageously situated on an extensive plot
of ground. It is designed primarily for the education
of the Anglican clergy, and the teaching ranks very
high. There are 14 professors.
312 PROVINCK OF ONTARIO.
Knox College.— This in.-'/itution is in (•r>niiecti(>n with
the Piesbytrriaii Chiii'ch and has a In^li iv|Mitation.
It was foiindod in 1843, at the time of the <iisni|)t ion,
for the pi'eparation of'clergynieu of the Free Kirk.
Wycliffe College.— This a recent Ibundation. The
present huiMini;- was eoniph'ted in 1882. It Ih a
theoloo'ieal eolieue in connection with the Chureh of
England. Theie are at j)resent six professors and 23
stuclents, of whrun ID are resident. Tha en<l(nvment
is being* raised by vohmtary subscription.
Macmaster Hall, for the training of clergy for the
Baptist Church — a very beautiful and coni])lete acade-
mic building, and an ornament to the city.
St. Michael's College, is a Roman Catholic institu-
tion, having a high standing and di*awing many
students from the United vStates. It is atiiliated to
the University of Toi'onto.
The Normal School, occupies a handsome j)ile of
buildings in extensive grounds. As a training school
for teachers, it is the centre of the educational system
of Ontario. Lai'ge amounts have been expended on
the library and museum, and, with less judgment, on
the Art Crallerv. There is a Model School in the
same building.
The School of Practical Science, is a branch of Uni-
versity College for the practical training of students
of Technology.
For the Medical Sciences there arc — The Toronto
School of Medicine, the Trinity Medical School, the
Woman's Medical College, the Ontario College of
Pharmacy, the Dental College, and the Ontario
Yeterinar}- College.
There are numerous educational institutions besides
these well worthy the attention of an inquiring
visitor.
FALLS OF NLVOARA. .'US
The Canadian Institute occupioa a largo buiMing
with a good inuseuin jin<l library. Its transjictioim
contain many papei'H of value, an<l most ot'thc scientitic
men of Canada arc among its resident or corj ospond-
ing members.
Libraries. — Com|>ai-tMl with other cities, Toronto is
well supplied with books. The libraiy of University
College contains 30,000 volumes, and all the other
colleges have libraries of 5,000 to 10,000 volumes.
The library of Osgood Hall, with 20,000 volume.^,
is very complete in law, and there is a good library
at the Normal School. At the Canadian Institute is a
Natui'al History library', and the city lias also a Free
Public Library, suj^ported hy the i-atepayers, with
branches, forming a circulating library for the use of
the citizens on the well known English plan. The
library of tlie Legislature contains 18,000 volumes.
Newspapers.— It is impossil)le to omit mention of the
remarkable development of the newspaper press of
Toronto. The two leading papers — the Globe and the
Mail — are fully al>reast of the newspapers of any
city in America, and ahead of all the other cities of
the Dominion in enterprise. There are other enter-
prising newspapers in Toronto, for the city is rich in
periodical literature, and there are other newspapers
in the country in which the editorial writing is quite
as good, but in enterprise and energy these two papers
must be admitted to have the lead.
TORONTO TO NIAGARA.
To write about the Falls of Niagara is an impeii:i-
nence. Nothing can be said which has not been
said already, and, inasmuch as many very skilful pens
have striven to describe them, probably said better.
Only let the tourist beware of staying too short a
time. It will take a clever man to see Niagara at a
314 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
glance. To see Niagara Falls the tourist must, at leasts
stay over night and look at them again and again, by
day and by night. He must cross the river to Goat
Island and go out over the bridges to the farthest of
the Three Sisters Islets, and sit down and look and
listen, until at last the roar of the cataract and the
swirl of the rapids will daze him. Then he may go
away and the impression upon his mind will be per-
manent. Or. better still, let him go down under the
Horseshoe Falls into the Cave of Thunders, if his
nerves are stronic. But all these thimi-s can be learned
at the hotel, and information will be showered ujDon the
tourist in every conceivable manner and beyond the
possibility of sudden absorption. To begin to tell of
the heroic Brock, and the deeds of 1812 ; of the days
of La Salle ; of the exaggerations of Hennepin, who
amplified 200 years ago, in good western style ; of the
cutting out of the Caroline ; and the thousand inter-
esting events associated in the Canadian mind with
Niagara is impossible. A second historic spot, how-
ever, the tourist referred to at page 290 might have
recorded. Near Queenston, Tom Moore wrote ''The
Woodpecker," presumably on a '' hollow beech tree,'*
once existing between Niagara and Queenston, but
which has, alas, long since been whittled away by the
jack-knives of historical pilgrims ; but the place where
it grew can still be seen.
The Horse-Shoe Fall.— The more important of the
two divisions of the cataract still remains upon the
Canadian side ; its nationality having survived the
treaties which made such fantastic frontiers else-
where. Fortunately there were no islands on the
Canadian side.
The best hotels on the Canadian side are the Clifton
House and Prospect House. They command a fine
view of the Falls. On the United States side the best
are the International Hotel and the Cataract House.
THE PENINSULA. 315
Niagara Falls are best reached from Toronto by
steamer across the Lake to Lewiston ; or directly by
the Great Western Division of the Grand Trunk RaiU
way. It is a very shoi't excursion, only two hours
by rail from Toronto.
THE PENINSULA.
The most productive part of the province of
Ontario is the peninsula formed by lakes Ontario,
Erie and Huron. As has been pointed out elsewhere,
in variety of agricultural wealth it surpasses all
other parts of the Dominion. In visiting Niagara by
railway Hamilton is passed, the fifth city of Canada
as to size, containing a population of 35,961. Dur-
ing the last ten years this city increased twenty-five
per cent, in population. It is a busy stirring place,
and the tourist who ma}' imagine it to be a mere pro-
vincial town will be surj^rised at the elegance and
solidity of the buildings.
London is at the centre of the peninsula. A city
of 19,746 people. Through it all the railways of this
part of the j^i'ovince pass. It is situated in the centre
of the richest farming country; and from it all that is
most worth seeing, to any one interested in agricul-
ture, can be easily visited. Near London are the
lands occupied by the Indians, the descendents of the
haughty warriors who were the terror of the early
settlers. The scenery of the peninsula is, for the
most part, flat or rolling, save along the edge of the
Niagara escar])ment which marks the country from
Niagara to Owen Sound with a line of romantic
beauty.
A western town has very little history to vary the
happy monotony of its annals. A store at a portage,
a saw mill at a rapid, an inn at the intersection of
roads usually marks its commencement. The black-
smith is soon needed, and as the settlement grows^
other less essential people follow, until, in a few
316 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
years, the settlement will, almost unnoticed, have
sprung up into a full-fledged town, with mayor and
council, city hall, gas, and the telephone; stores for
all the necessary wants of this world, and several
kinds of churches for the requirements of the next.
The churches will at lirst be of wood ; but let the
traveller return in twenty years. The people will not
have rested on their oars in the meantime. They
cannot rest. There is much still to be done, and the
children of the people who attacked the wilderness
will never rest until it is completely subdued. There
IS much of interest in the peninsula and in its many
flourishing towns, bat it lies off the main track to
Lake Superior and the west, and our space will not
permit further detail.
FROM TORONTO TO LAKE SUPERIOR.
There are many lines of steamers upon the upper
lakes. For the tourist, only the following need be
considered :
1. The Canadian Pacific Line.— Sailing from Owen
Sound direct to Port Arthur, and stopping only at
Sault Ste. Marie. All steamers necessarily stop at the
Sault, and there is the proper place to change the
route, if that be desired. These steamers are steel,
Clyde-built vessels, lighted by the electric light, and
provided with every comfort. This is the fastest route
for Manitoba. The boats sail on Tuesdays, Thui*g-
days and Saturdays at 4 p.m., and their course is
through the middle of lake Superior.
2. The Owen Sound Steamship Line.— This line calls
at all ports on Manitoulin Island and the north shore
of Lakes Huron and Superior as far as Nepigon only.
The steamers sail from Owen Sound on Wednesdays
.and Saturdays for the Sault, and on Tuesdays and
Pi-idays for Nepigon.
LAKE SUPERIOR. 317
3. The Canada Transit Company's Line—These boats
Btart from Cuilingwood but call at Owen Sound.
On Wednesdays a steamer sails for Port Arthur
direct, and on Tuesdays and Fridays for Port Arthur,
calling at Silver Islet on the north shore of the lake. '
These three lines take the channel north of Mani-
toulin Island, sailing in quiet water, amid the count-
less islands of Georgian Eay, and performint^ the ser-
vice of the north shore of Lake Superior. The Soutk
Shore has attractions of its own. It is sei*\'ed by
4. The Lake Superior Transit Company. — The boats of
this line start every day, except Sundays and Fri-
days, from Buffalo, but they can be caught at Sault at
Ste. Mary. They coast along the south shore of Lake
Superior stopping at all the ports as far as Duluth.
Tourists desirous of making a coasting circuit of the
lake may go up on the north shore to Port Arthur
by line No. 3 and then take a boat of the Northwest
Transportation Company, line No. 5, to Duluth and
return to the Sault by boats of the Lake Superior
Transit Company along the south shore, or they may
reverse the route ; changing at the Sault.
5. The North-West Transportation Company.— This is a
line of steamers sailing on Tuesdays and Fridays from
Sarnia and connecting with the Gi-and Trunk Eailway
system. They touch at Goderich, Kincardine and
Southampton upon the eastern shore of lake Huron.
Their course to Sault Ste. Marie is south of the Mani-
tonlin island. From the Sault they go to Port Arthur
and Duluth, at which latter point they connect with
the Northern Pacilic E. E. and also with the steamers
for points on the south shore. Those who wish to
see the Peninsula of Ontario may take the Sarnia
steamers after passing through the best part of the
province by the Great Western division of the Grand
Trunk Eailway. Goderich and Kincardine, on Lake
Huron, are noted for their salt-works. Ontario ex-
ported 197,159 bushels of salt last year.
318 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
TO GEORGIAN BAY.
Two ports on Georgian Bay are points of departure
for the upper lakes — CoUingwood and Owen Sound.
The Owen Sound road is formed partly of the Toron-
to, Grey & Bruce Railway purchased, and partly of
a new road, from Orangeville to Owen Sound, built by
the Canadian Pacific. It passes through a rich agri-
cultural district. A branch at Oj'ani>:eville leads to a
part of the country about Elora abounding in beauti-
ful scenery. Owen Sound had 4,486 inhabitants in
1881 and is a thriving place.
The road to CoUingwood is over the Northern
Railway, and it passes through the oldest settlements
in the province; almost alongside of Yonge street;
an avenue hewed out of the forest in the early days of
York to open up the old Indian trail to Holland's
Landing. The road passes through many a farm
with a story. On this line, near ths summit, it was
that a number of French royalists settled during
the revolution, the Comte de Chains, the Chevalier
de St. George, the Comte de Puisage, etc. Scarcely
any of their descendants are left. The modern French
have lost the expansiveness of the old race which
nearly succeeded in making North America a French
continent. At Holland Landing commenced the In-
dian portage southwards to reach Lake Ontario by
the Humber. At AUandale there is a branch road
to Barrie and Orillia, on Lake Simcoe, and termi-
nating at Penetanguishene, which the busy Ontarian
has time to spell only as far as Penetang.
Concerning Lake Simcoe and the beauty of its
scener}', we have space only to say that it is one of
the loveliest spots in Canada. Nor does it want in
historic interest, for in its neighbourhood were en-
acted the dreadful tragedies of the Hiu'on-Iroquois wai'.
Here, if there were space, could be narrated deeds of
the loftiest heroism and of the most fiendish cruelty.
In this corner of Ontario a nation was saved from
LAKE SUPERIOR. 319
utter extermination only by the intervention of the
white strangers. Had the 'French arrived 50 years
later the Huron nation would have disappeared as
utterly as did the Mound-builders. Later on it be-
came the scene of live great battles, in which the Mis-
eissaugas an Ojibway tribe overcame the Iroquois and
drove them out of the country. At Penetanguisheno
was the naval station of the upper lakes where a
large force was kept, until the convention of mutual
disarmament with the United States.
Collingwood is a busy town, which in 1881 had a
population of 4,446 inabitants.
LAKE SUPERIOR.
The dimensions of this lake are given at p. 43.
Apart from the novelty of sailing upon a great fresh-
water sea 2000 miles from the main Atlantic, the
scenery on its shores is impi'essive and grand. There
is nothing merely pretty there. ]S"ature assumes a
solemn and stern grandeur. It is the great lake of
the Ojibways, '^ Kitchi-gami." Listen to an Ojibway
chief, Kah-CTC-Ga-Grah-Bowh — vulgarly George Cop-
way — describing his country :
"When I look upon the land of the Ojibways, I cannot but
be convinced of the fact that in no other portion of the world
can there be a territory more favoured bv Heaven. The waters
are abundant and good ; the air bracing and healthy. It is
not to be wondered at that, in such a climate, such a strong
athletic and hardy race as the Ojibways should exist. There
is as much diflerence between them and the tribes of the
South as between the strong wind and the gentle zephyr."
In fact the Iroquois never met a serious check until
they came in contact with the Ojibways.
A recent American traveller gives his impressions
as follows : —
The place of Lake Superior, among all bodies of fresh
water is unique, with its vast expanse, its headlands that
320 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
repeat Gibraltar, its islands that lie in the distance like
mountains of opaque amethyst in beds of turquoise, blue,
or silver, and its waters, cold as the v/aters of the pole, and
so clear that you look at a depth of 50 feet upon beds of
rock, white with silver veins, paved with phosphorescent
spar or glittering with copper, where Isle Royale stretches
her jewelled fingers beneath the waves.
The course of the steamers from Owen Sound and
CoUingwood is invariably inside of the barrier of
islands which shelters Georgian Bay from the sweep
of the waves of the main lake
" within the wilderness
Of Huron, clasping those transparent bays,
Those deeps of unimagined crystal, where
The bark canoe seems hung in middle air."
On the left is the bluff of Cabot's Head, a pro-
longation of the escarpment previously referred to at
p. 284. Then follows the Grand Manitoulin Island 80
miles long by 20 wide, with a large Indian popu-
lation of the Ojibway nation. The east coast of
the bay is rocky and bold and is studded with
an infinity of small islands. As the steamer pro-
ceeds to Manitouwahning, the islands become very
numerous, and she seems landlocked in the tortuous
channel of this island maze. On the north shore
the Lacloche Mountains — the rugged border of the*
lake — close in the view ; and at the north-east cor-
ner of the bav the French Eiver dischara^es the
waters of Lake Xipissing, down whose rapid stream
came Champlain in a bark canoe in the year 1615,
on his visit to Ihe Huron nation in their towns near
CoUingwood, five years before the Pilgrim Fathers
landed at Plymouth Eock. The channel broadens to
the west, but Cockburn and Drummond Islands still
shelter it from the swell of the lake. Opposite Bruce
Mines St. Joseph's Island commences ; a large island
at the mouth of St. Mary's river, which is the name
the St. Lawrence bears here. At Garden River is an -
LAKE SUPERIOR. 321
Indian reserve. The next stoppin<^^ place is Sault Ste.
Marie, or, in the language of the country, '' The Soo,''
an important place, for all steamers stop there to pass
through the Canal rendered necessary by the Falls
of St. Mary. The first canal was built in 1853-5 ly a
company under a contract with the State of Michigan.
Since then a new canal has been made. It is one mile
long with one lock, 515 feet in length, admitting
vessels of 16 feet draught, and overcoming a rise of
18 feet. The width of the canal varies from 108
to 270 feet. The old canal has two locks of 350 feet
each. Both are on the United States side. This was
a more important place, relatively, in old days when
grand councils of Indian nations were convened here,
and voyageurs held their revels on their return from
the far west.
After the Sault the next stopping place is Batcha-
waning Bay. On all the north shore the coast is bold
and wild. Cascades without number fall down over
the steep cliffs, and, although the steamers keep well
out into the lake, the air is so clear that the shores
are seen at a great distance. Michipicoton Island and
Biver are the next stopping places. An important
post this, in the fur trade ; for, by a very short
portage, the head waters of the Moose Eiver, falling
into Hudson's Bay, are reached. The Michipicoton
River is navigable up to the Falls, 15 miles distant.
The island rises 800 feet above the lake. At Pic River,
the next port, is another Hudson's Bay post. Nepigon
Bay is sheltered by islands from the swell of the
lake. It is a large bay 40 miles long by 15 miles
wide, studded with numberless islands. The land rises
to 1000 or 1300 feet. The river is the outlet of Lake
Nepigon, a large lake frequented by sportsmen. At
last the grand outlines of Thunder Cape, an immense
mass of trap, appear like a lion couchant ; and opposite
to it is Pie Island. At the entrance of the Bay is
Silver Islet, a patch of rock scarcely large enough
for a log hut, from which a fabulous quantity of silver
21
322 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
ha8 been taken. All along the north shore native
copper occurs. The countiy must depend for deve-
lopcment upon its mineral resources which fortunately
are great, tor it is a veritable giant-lan(i. Thunder-
Bay is an extensive sheet of water, running 40 miles
into the land, and surrounded by grand scenery. All
around are clitfs rising 1000 to 1500 feet boldly out
of the lake. Into it falls the Kaministiquia Eiver, at
whose mouth in 1G78 Daniel Greysolon, Sieur du Luth,
built his fort and traded with the Sioux of the head
waters of the Mississippi. At the head of the Bay is
Prince Arthur's Landing, now called Port Arthur.
Far away to the west is the land to which
departed Hiawatha
Hiawatha the Beloved,
In the glory of the sunset,
In the purple mists of evening,
To the regions of the home-wind,
Of the North-west wind Keewaydin,
^i'^ the islands of the Blessed,
To the kingdom of Ponemah
To the land of the Hereafter !
Always to the west — the land of the indetinite.
Greeks, Egyptians or Ojibways — it is the same story.
Botany.— As noted on page 2T4 the flora of the north
shores of Lakes Superior and Huron is of sub-arctic
type, the physical conditions of a large body of cold
water with a low equable temperature and a moist
atmosphere being somewhat akin to those existing
on the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. This
influence does not, however, extend to any great dis-
tance inland, where the vegetation is of the ordinary
Canadian type. Of ferns some interesting species
are found here : — Cryptogramme acrostichoides, a high
noi'thern plant, scarcely distinct from the European
C. crispa, occurs on Isle Eoyale ; Pella^a gracilis, with
its long slender cord-like rootstock and its delicate
stipes and fronds, is widespread ; Aspleniujn viride is
QEOLOOY. 323
found at Owen Sound, and doubtless occurs elsewhere ;
Polystichiim fragrajis, which Sir \Vm. Hooker terms
^'one of the most beautiful of all ferns," remarkable
for the persistence of its dead fronds and for its strong
aromatic odour ; P. Lonchitis and P. Fllix-mas, both
scarce and local in America ; the ubiquitous Ci/stea
fragilis in many of its protean forms, the purely North
American C. fjublifera, and at Pic Kiver and elsewhere
the beautiful C. moiitana, whose only other recorded
American stations are in the northern Kocky Moun-
tains and at Amour in the Strait of Belleisle ; Woodsia
7/i:6n5^'s on rocky banks everywhere, W.hyperborea, W.
glabella^ and W. Oregana — the latter, a purely North
American plant, found sparingly on the south shore ;
Scolopendrium vulgare, extremely local in America,
occurs at Owen Sound ; and the Botrychlums are fully
represented — the species, following Milde's nomencla-
ture, being B. Lunara, B. matrlcarujefoUum, B. lanceo-
latiwi, B. simplex, B. ternatum (numerous forms, in-
cluding rutaceum, Schkuhi*, lunarioides, Michaux, and
obllquum, Muhlenberg), and B. virginanum. Taken as
a whole, the fern flora of Lake Superior is more
Asiatic than European, and about one half of the
whole number of species found here also enter the
Arctic circle.
Dr. George M. Dawson, F.G.S., contributes the fol-
lowing sketch of the geology of the country from
Owen Sound to the Eockv Mountains.
LAKE HURON TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
At Owen Sound, whence the C. P. E. steamers
leave for Port Arthur, rocks from the Hudson River
to the Niagara occur, and many fossil corals are ob-
tained in the limestones of the latter formation. The
peninsula, which forms the west side of Georgian Bay,
and the south shore of the Manitoulin Islands, arc
324 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
chiefly composed of the Niagara limestones, in a
nearly horizontal position. On approaching the Sault
St. Marie, lower rocks occupy the shores, and in
passing through the canal tlie peculiar red and spot-
ted sandstones of this locality, which are of Potsdam
or Chazy age, are well seen.
Isle Koyale, off the entrance to Thunder Bay, is
noted for its deposits of native oopper, while Silver
Islet, near to Thunder Cape, is the site of a silver
mine which has proved exceptionally rich.
The scenery of the shores of Thunder Bay is very
fine, its most remarkable features being Thunder Cape,
Pie Island and McKay's Mountain, all of which are
capped by massive contemporaneous trap flows. The
rocks of tlie shores of the bay are those of the
Animiki, or base of the upper copper bearing group
of Sir W. E. Logan. They are nearly horizontal and
overlie the Huronian and Laui'entian rocks inland
quite unconformably.
On the line of railway from this point to the Lake
of the Woods a number of alternating bands of
Laurentian and Huronian rocks are crossed.
Near Keewatin or Eat Portage, where the Winnipeg
River issues from the Lake of the Woods, a junction
(probably faulted) of the Laurentian and Huronian
formations may be observed in the immediate vicinity
of the railway. Further west, the overlap of the
Silurian limestones of the Winnipeg basin is concealed
by drift deposits, which cover the surface of the coun-
try and consist generally of stratified sands and
gravels overlying the boulder-clay. The Hed Eiver
valley is entirely of alluvial formation, consisting of
the sediments of a former great post-glacial lake to
which the name Lake Agassiz has been given.
In continuing westward, the edge of the second prai-
rie-steppe(el8ewhere well defined) is gradually mounted
by the railway, which follows the Assiniboine valley.
On this prairie-level the underlying rocks are seen
only in the scai*ped banks of the deeper river-valleys,
GEOLOGY, 325
the Hurfiico consistiiiii; of a <^vci\t depth of drift. In tl\o
vicinity of Moose Jaw the edijro of the third pniirie-
steppe is anproiiched, and mixy he ohserved extending
along the horizon to the south-west. This is the so-
called Mis.souri Coteaii, one of the most remarkahlo
results of glacial action on the continent. West of
Moose Jaw the Coteau helt is crossed, and numerous
valleys show the chaiacter of the drift deposits. At
this point the Coteau is, however, divided into two
zones by a wi<le flat area covered with alluvium, of
which Old Wives Lakes occupy a part.
Further west, the line skirts the northern edge of
the Cypress Hills, a remarkable plateau consisting
of cretaceous rocks, capped by miocene gi'avels, the
existence of which was determined for the tirst time
last summer. At Medicine Hat and other stations
near this place ver3Mnteresting and extensive sections
of cretaceous coal-bearing rocks occur, and one mine is
already in active operation. Eemains of Deinosaurs
and other reptiles have been observed here in some
abundance. West of Medicine Hat as far as Calgary,
the line passes along the west side of the Bow River
over a heavily drift-covered plain. At Calgary the
Laramie rocks, overlying the Cretaceous, are well
exposed. Prom this point the Rocky Mountains are
in full view, and the railway'- continuing westward
along the Bow River exhibits in numerous cuttings
and in the banks of the river and valley, good sections
of the Laramie and Cretaceous rocks, which, on ap-
proaching the mountains more closely, become folded
together and lie at all angles up to verticality. Large
collections of fossil plants of Laramie age have been
obtained near Calgary.
At the base of the mountains the Coniferous trees
characterizing the western slope are first met with,
and a flora for the most part distinct from that left in
the wooded country east of Winnipeg.
Bow River Falls, at the mouth of the Kanaskis, are
326 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO.
oxtrcmcly ]>ic'lnreHqiio, and Hcctions of CretaccouB
HumlHtones and sliales occur in the banks.
Near Padmorc, the Palieozoic rockH of the moun-
tainn are readied, their junction witli tlie Cretaceous
Hories being a faulted one with downthrow eastward.
Ghicial grooviiii^, due to a foi'iner Bow River gla-
cier, is observable here ; and the scenery, which from
Calgary to this }K)int is very tine, liere becomes grand
and rugged as the ])ass is entered. Tlie mountains
bordering the valley are chiefly composed of very
massive limestones of Devonian or Devono-carboni-
ferous age. At the junction of Cascade Eiver with
the Bow Eiver, a remarkable isolated trough or fold of
Cretaceous rocks occui's, occu})ying a wide valley with
a north-west and south-east course. The rocks contain
coal seams which have assumed the character o€
anthracite, and are ali'cady being opened up, though
discovered only last summer.
Westward fi-om this point the line affords magni-
ficent views of the mountains constituting the main
chain of the Eockies. Deposits of copper ore have
been found near Castle Mountain, and silver ores are
reported from the same vicinity. Before reaching
the continental watershed, the valley is occupied by
rocks of an older series which unconformably under-
lie the limestones of the higher peaks. These rocks,
consisting of slates, quartzites, etc., are probably Cam-
brian, though no fossils have yet been discovered in
this locality. Numerous exceedingly fine views occur
near the summit, and on the west slope are several
true glaciers, while many of the higher peaks are
covered, more or less completely, with perennial snow.
G. M. D.
MANITOBA AND THE NORTH-WEST.
Concerning this— the jn-airie ])rovinc'e of (^aniuhi—
much need not be said here ; hecaiise nunieroiis pub-
licationw rehiting to it are widoly distributed ; and uIho
because to write about it demands an extensive use of
the future tense which a stJ'anger visitor can emi)loy
lor himself with as niucli accuracy as a resident. The
continued advance of settlement, moreover, makes
any guide book antiquated a few months after publi-
cation.
The West is the country of infinite possibilities.
Thither go the knights-errant of this age— not to
rescue distressed damsels, for damsels are ju-ovokingly
scarce there, and are more apt to distress the knights
— but to conquer every kind of difficulty and to solve
every kind of riddle which Nature presents to her
sturdier children — sure at last of the recompense of
a competency in a healthy climate among congenial
surroundings.
History.— The whole country west and north of the
St. Lawrence water-shed formed part of the domain
granted by Charles II. to the Hudson's Bay Company
in 1670. They occupied the mouths of the rivers and
traded with the Indians of the basin which drained
into the Bay.
The French of Canada had reached the entrance of
Lake Superior in 1G41. The Huron-Iroquois war
closed the country for a while, but in 1670 the Jesuits
had a mission at La Point e upon its southern shore.
Daniel Greysolon du Luth went up to the North-West
in 1678, and a little later built a fort at Kaministiquia,
near Fort William, where he lived an adventurous life
328 MANITOBA AND THE NORTH-WEST.
trading with the Indians; sometimes leading them to
the assistance of the French otfteers, sometimes defy-
ing the king's edicts, arid sometimes tighting for his
life with tlie wild trihes around him.
It is, however, to Pierre Gauthier de Yarennes —
Sicur de hi Verendrye — that the credit of opening up
Manitoba is due. He, with four of his sons, a nephew,
and a Jesuit priest, travei'sed it in 1738-48, and in the
course of liis eventful life he founded posts there, and
gave names to K)calities which they retain to this
day. He founded Fort Maurepas, now Fort Alex-
ander at the mouth of the Winnipeg River, Fort
Houge at the mouth of the Red River, Fort de la Reine
on the site of the city of Winnijieg, Fort du Grande-
Rapide at tlie Rapids of the Saskatchewan, and Forts
du Pas and La Corne farther up on the same river.
His sons discovered the Rocky Mountains, though
they did not ci'oss them. His life was more romantic
than the wildest sensational novel of our day. He
died broken down with debt and misfortune. Then
followed the war with the English, in which his
sons were killed, and for a while a curtain fell over
the West.
As soon as peace was declared and the English
began to settle at Montreal, they took up the enter-
prises of the French. The North-W^cst Company was
formed, and one of its partners, Sir Alex. Mackenzie,
crossed the Rocky Mountains and reached the Colum-
bia. He also discovered the river now called by his
name and traced it to the Arctic Ocean. Then came
the struggle betw^een the Xorth-West and the Hudson's
Bay Companies which broke out into open war ; fol-
lowed by an amalgamation and once more the curtain
was drawn over the western land ; until at last, in
1869, Canada purchased the Hudson's Bay Company's
rights and opened it to the world.
Area. — The area of Manitoba, separate from the
yorth-West Territories and the four districts of As-
PHYSICAL FEATURES. 329
siniboia, Saskatchewan, Athabaska and Alberta, is
given in the census as 123,200 square miles, but the
eastern boundary is still in dispute with Ontario, and
the Privy Council will have to decide the question.
Physical Features.— The gifts of Providence are
bestowed with wisdom — not all upon one country lest
all mankind should want to settle there, and another
tower of Babel be required. The North West from
the valley of the Red Eiver to the Eocky Mountains
has no features. It is one vast illimitable plain
endowed with a monotony of fertility. The entrance
to it from Lake Superior is through a belt of rough
country abounding in lakes and streams and rocks,
but the great characteristic of the country is the
prairie, stretching out to the Rocky Mountains, which
for unknown ages has been the pasture land of
innumerable herds of buffalo. Upon the south it
is bounded by the arid plateau of the Missouri, and
upon the north by the forest region north of the
Saskatchewan. Travelling westward, three plains, at
diflPerent levels, are crossed before reaching the Rocky
Mountains. The first extends nearly to the western
boundary of Manitoba; up to an escarpment called by
various names as Pembina, Riding, Duck and Porcu-
pine Mountains. This, when surmounted, turns out
to be but the edge of a more elevated plain, which
extends nearly to Battleford and Regina. Thence the
land rises a step higher and sweeps in an unbroken
level to the Rocky Mountains. Through these plains
the rivers have worn deep valleys, so that from the
deck of a steamer the view is extremely limited.
Soil.— The soil of Manitoba is a strong black vegeta-
ble mould from 18 inches to many feet deep, which
the English Tenant Farmere' delegates report will
produce 40 bushels of wiieat to the acre the first year,
and 30 bushels annually for 30 successive years with-
out manure. The produce over the whole province
330 MANITOBA AND THE NORTH-WEST.
in 1882 was 32 bushels of wheat, 37 bushels of barley,
51 of oats, and 278 of potatoes to the acre.
The Eailway does not pass through the best of
the country after leaving Regina. The most produc-
tive area is on the North Saskatchewan, at Prince
Albert and Edmonton, and further north on the Peace
Eiver.
Climate.— It seems strange that there should ever
have been a question concerning the climate of a coun-
try which the buffalo — an animal without political pre-
judices — has, for unknown ages, selected as his winter
home. Blodgett, in his Climatology, published thirty
years ago, summed up the matter in the following
sentence : "The fact of the presence of these vast herds
'' of wild cattle on plains at so high a latitude is ample
'' proof of the climatological and productive capacity of
"the country." As the buffalo live upon grass it would
seem evident that there must he grass in any place to
which they resort. Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle
report that their horses, turned out in the fall upon the
open prairie, were caught in the spring so well nour-
ished that they were like " balls of fat." Agents for
lands in the United States are continually spreading
evil reports of the Canadian North-west. It is better
to rely upon the experience of the buffalo, who make
no percentage by misleading settlers. At St. Paul
and upon the Peace Eivers the spring opens at the
same date. The navigation of the Red River is open
as early as that of the St. Lawrence, and in the years
1871 to 1881 the Red River was open ten days before
the opening of the Erie Canal.
Productions.— The North-west is above all else an
inexhaustible wheat mine. How many hundreds of
thousands of years ago it was, when the alluvial stib-
stratum was deposited, only geologists know ; but in-
numerable herds of buffalo have grazed over these
plains for unknown ages, and, since man arrived, the
PRODUCTIONS. 331
long grass has been annually burned. Into all this
accumulated wealth of agricultural possibilities the
present generation has entered.
Not less remarkable is the abund.^nce of coal ; not
lignite only, but true bituminous coal. At Bow and
Eelly Eivers, at Souris, at Edmonton and far north
on the Peace Eiver — all over this vast territory in
fact, coal seams crop out, some of them ten to twenty
feet in thickness. A few months ago only a cut-
ing for the railway in the Kicking-horse pass opened
a seam of anthracite. Bitumen and petroleum abound
on the Athabasca, where are also found springs of
mineral pitch. Salt spi-ings exist near lakes Manitoba
and Winnipegoosis and elsewhere, from which salt is
manufactured in a rude way.
The productive character of the gold-bearing rocks
at Rat Portage has not been well ascertained.
Eight companies are now at work, and the present
year will prove them. At the head waters of the
Saskatchewan gold has been washed out on the bars for
some time, and reports are continually brought in of
discoveries which, in themselves seem very probable,
and which mav be verified at anv moment, for there
18 every indication of rich gold deposits.
As a cattle-raising country the Xorth-west is pre-
eminent. Where herds of wild cattle could flourish
herds of tame cattle can likewise flourish, and large
ranches are now established near the foot-hills of the
Bockies.
Of all these things travellers will themselves judge.
Canadians residing in old Canada know no more
of them than others. Every year brings new ca-
pabilities to light, and demonstrates the probabilities
of the previous year. The most enterprising of the
Canadian people, the sturdy farmers of Ontario, are
pressing into the country ; and a steady stream of
emigration fi-om England is flowing into it. Prophecy
is easy concerning it, but the reality of to-day ex-
ceeds the wildest prophecy of twenty years ago. The
332 MANITOBA AND THE NORTH-WEST.
country has only one pest, worse than mosquitoi?,
the speculators, called in vivid western parlance,
" boomsters," who fortunately have, for the moment,
burst themselves in a vain attempt to drink up the
whole Xorth-West.
THE PROVISIONAL DISTRICTS.
These were erected in 1882 for the convenience of
settlers. They are — Assiniboia, comprising 95,000
square miles; Saskatchewan, 114,000 square miles;
Alberta, 100,000 quare miles; and Athabasca, 122,-
OOO square miles. Much of what has been said under
the head of Manitoba is applicable to these territories
also.
Perhaps the most important question now before
the Western j^eople is that of the navigation of Hud-
son's Bay and Straits. The Dominion Government
has oi'ganized an expedition (which sailed in July) to
set this question at rest. Seven parties will be left
during the winter, three on each side of the straits
and one at Fort Churchill, to make observations as to
the opening and close of navigation and the move-
ments of the ice. If it be found possible to open up
a regular and '^ertain trade by way of Hudson's Bay,
the consequences are far-reaching, — ocean shipping
will be brought into the very heart of the continent.
Most antagonistic views upon this subject are held
in Canada, and, in view of the steps now taken to
solve the question, discussion in the absence of data
is lost time.
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
This is the largest province in the Confederation, and
contains an area of 341,305 square miles— equal to the
aggregate areas of France, Belgium, Holland and
Italy. It is also the most sparsely peopled, for the total
population at the last census was only 49,459, of which
26,661 were Indians. There are, therefore, but 22.798
white people in all that vast territory. Four thousand
less than the number on the poor-rate in England, in
that year in the county of Devon alone.
This province would seem to be the natural habitat
of the Anglo-Saxon upon the Pacific Ocean. The Japan
cuiTent corresponds to the Gulf stream, and throws
upon its shores a body of warm water, which in like
manner as in England moves the isothermal line far
northward. The climate of Victoria is like that of the
British Channel Islands. The mean temperatui*e
during the year is 50°. The lowest mean monthly
figure being, for December, 38°, and the highest, for
July, 53*8. The climate of Port Simpson, the most
northern point, is almost as mild, and none of the
harboui's ever freeze. Upon the main-land, as the
mountains are ascended, the climate becomes drier
and more severe, and the loftiei' ranges are clothed
with snow all the year round.
The coast line is very remarkable. It is an endless
succession of deep and sheltered harbours — an inter-
minable labyi'inth of inlets and islands and channels —
where the largest ship may sail for many days without
fear of shoals, and where the lighest canoe may go
immense distances without feai^ of rough water. The
country has been unfortunate enough to be the subject
334 BRITISH COLUMBIA.
of negotiation twice. The iirst time, the southern
territoiy as far as the Cohunbia was carved away ;
the second time, a few small adherent islands were
scraped off.
The rivers teem with fish. The attention of the
people is, however, concentrated upon the salmon ;
of which there are several species, the earliest
arriving in March, and the latest remaining until
winter. In 1882, the exj^orts of canned salmon were
250,000 cases, valued at S1,24T,000. The Indians are
very useful in these " canneries," and of the 3,000
persons employed in this industry, a large proportion
are Indians. Herring, haddock and other food fishes
are abundant, but do not attract much attention. The
current pi-ice of salmon in Victoria is 2Jd. stg. the
pound. They swarm in all the rivers, and in the
Fraser they are found 1,000 miles from the sea.
The mildness and humidity of the climate, due to
the condensation upon the mountains of the warm
Japan current, cause this province to abound in lumber.
The trees grow to an immense size. But king of all
trees is the Douglas fir. A section of one may be
seen at Ottawa on the Parliament grounds 8 feet 4
inches in diameter. It is a section taken 20 feet from
the ground out of a tree 305 feet high. At page 23 is a
list of the chief trees of the Province. They all
attain great proportions, but the Douglas Fir is the
loftiest of all. Masts of this tree, 130 feet long, are
often made. The timber-producing resources of the
province are practically untouched ; for capital and
population are I'^king to develop them. The market
at present is San Francisco, where British Columbia
timber finds ready sale at remunerative rates.
The destiny of the province will probably be decided
by the abundance and excellent quality of its coal.
The Nanaimo coal has been used by the war vessels of
the Pacific squadron for many years. This coal field is
130 miles in length along the east coast of Yancouver
Island. On the north of the island the Comox coal is
RESOURCES. 335
found at Barclay Sound. On the main land at the
mouth of the Fraser Kivoi-, coal is found, and the coal
field of the Nicola Valley, on the Thompson River is
100 miles long by -40 miles broad. At many other
places important deposits have been noted. At the
Queen Chai-lotte Islands valuable mines of true anthra-
cite have been discovered. Important ores of iron
occur in close proximity to the Xanaimo coal.
Since the year 1858, when gold was discovered, the
total vield to the end of 1882 from irold-mininff
amounted to $46,685,334. The placer mines have
been to a great extent worked out; but quartz-mining
is as yet in its infancy. The cost of sending supplies
up to the mines has prevented their rapid develoi)-
ment. The railway will remedv that disadvantage.
The product of gold in 1882 was^l, 013,827.
It is not as a farming country that the pi'ovince will
chiefly be celebrated. There is, no doubt, much good
land in the valleys and on the estuaries. In the Peace
river district there ai*c extensive prairie-^, and much
excellent grazing land is found in the interior. But
it wdll be long before the prairie land on the east of
the mountains will be taken up and the railway con-
necting these regions will develop each in its natural
order.
. For grandeur of scenery this province is unequalled.
It is traversed by four ranges of mountains, the
Eockies, the Selkirk range, the Gold range, and the
Cascade ran2:e. Among these and their outliers are
numerous long and profoundly deep lakes, whose
waters hurry down the steep inclines by many chan-
nels to the sea. The chief river is the Fraser, which
extends in navigable stretches far into the interior,
interrupted by rapids and falls where it breaks
through the mountain ranges. The mountain peaks
are snow-capped all the year round.
i
DOMINION LINl OF STEAHSNIPS
RUNNING IN CONNECTION WITH
THE GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY OF CANADA.
BrooldTn,
Sarnia, •
Montreal,
Ontario, -
Tezas, -
Tons
4500
3750
3300
320C
2750
Vancouver,
Tons.
Oregon, - - 3750
Toronto, - 3300
Dominion, - 3200
Mississippi, 2600
(Quebec, - - 2600
5300 Tons.
— BETWEEN —
QUEBEC AND LIVERPOOL IN SUMMER,
— AND —
PORTLAND, Me., & LIVERPOOL IN WINTER
Theee Pteamors are all of the highest class, full-powered, ani
Clyde-built iu water-tight compartments, commanded by men of
large experience, and carry a full staff of Stewards, Stewardesses,
and a Surgeon for the comfort and convenience of passengers.
The Saloons, Stateroous, Music Room, Bath Rooms and Smok-
ing Room in " Vancouver," " Oregon '' and " Sarnia" are amid-
ships, where but little motion is felt, and are handsomely fitted up.
The passage from Quebec being nearly 500 miles shorter than
from New York, and three days of it in the comparatively smooth
waters of the Gulf and River Si. Xatrre/ice, makes this route the
most desirable for passengers.
Rates of passage from Quebec or Portland : — Cabin, $50 to $80,
according to steamer and accomodation ; Intermediate and Steerage
at lowest rates.
For further particulars apply to
Flinn, Main, & Montgomery,
Man. Directors,
24 James St., I.ITERPOOL.
David Torrance & Co.,
General Agents,
MOBTTREAIi.
J^The Crown Lands Department has under its direction and con-
trol many matters of public interest to which the attention of
capitalists, settlers, and others is specially drawn.
NETTLEMEMT LANDS.
It offers to the settler the choice of a variety of land, from the
Ottawa Valley on the west to the Labrador coast on the east
affording a variety of soil, climate and value unequalled elsewhere.
The priceji and conditions are of the most favorable character,
and every possible facility is afforded to the bona fide settler to
discharge the conditions of his purchase.
MISTEH.
A variety and abundance of mines exist throughout the entire
Province. In the Ottawa Valley rich nho.«phate mines have been
discovered, and in many places are now being worked to great profit.
In the Beauce di.-trict valuable gold nnnes exist, which liave
for many years attracted the attention of capitalists.
Valuable Afbef^tos mines have al.«^o been discovered, which are
being worked to advantage.
To the North of the St. Lawrence, below Quebec, a region com-
paratively unknown, valuable ochre mines have already been
discovered, and there is every reason to believe that valuable
mineial deposits of other kinds are to be found there.
Copper and iron mines have also been found in various sections
of the Province, some of which have proved and are now proving
a profitable investment.
FISHERIES.
The fishing privileges are of great value, especially those of the
Salmon fishing on the innumerable rivers flowing into the Lower
St. Lawrence and the Saguenay.
The inland lakes, which are unsurpassed for the beauty of
scenery surrounding them, also abjund in fish, and the Depart-
ment has already leased a number of them to individuals and
clubs for fishing purposes.
GAME.
Attention has also in the past been given lo the protection of our
game, anu it is the purpose and intention of the Department in the
future to exercise a more vigilant protection, with the view of in-
creasing their value and importance.
Any information with reference to any of the foregoing subjects
will be cheerfully given by the officers of the Department on appli-
cation therefor.
W. W. I.YNCH,
Quebec, 1st July, 1884. Commissioner,
FREE FARMS FOR THE MILLION
IN THE BEAUTIFUL PROVINCE OF
Manitoba and Canadian Nortli-West
have 150,000,000 acres of the best Wheat Land in the world, and
50,000,000 acres of the best Grazing; Land.
RAIL^VAY COMMUNICATION
open to all parts of the Continent. The Canada Pacific is now
running about 900 miles west of Winnipeg, and has now reached
the summit of the Rocky Mountains'. Railway line from Winnipeg
to Thunder Bay now running. Total length of Canada Pacific
completed, about 2,000 mile-^. Length expected to be completed
within one year, from Callander to Port Arthur, 2,500 miles.
Government section on Pacific coast, rails already laid, 144 miles.
Entire line to Pacific Ocean expected to be running in 1885.
THE GREAT WHEAT BELT.
Red River Valley, Saskatchewan Valley, and great Canadian
Prairie^*, the large.-^t Wheat Growing Area of the Continent of
North America. Richest and Deepest soil, ready for the plough.
Heavy Wheat (weighing 65 lb.*, to the bushel). Heavy Crops, and
Ready Markets. Average product of fair farming, 80 bushels to
the acre.
GREAT COAL FIELDS.
The Largest Coal Fields in the World, and within easy reach,
are in the Canadian North-West, in connection with Iron, Gold,
Silver and other valuable minerals.
HOMESTEADS.
s^One hundred and sixty acres given free to every settler in
Manitoba and the North-Wei-t.
Healthy Climate--llo Fevers, No Agues, No Endemic Diseases.
Full detailed information, in Pamphlets and Maps, fur-
nished (gratis and post free) on application to the
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE,
OTTAWA, CANADA.
THE GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY
OF CANADA
Affords the readiest means of communication between tlie principal
places in Q,aebe€ and Ontario with the
LOWER PROVINCES, THE EASTERN AND CENTRAL STATES,
AS WELL AS WITH
CHICAGO AUD THE WESTERN AND NORTHWESTERN STATES
ALSO REACHING
Manitoba and the Xortli-We^t Territory
by its steamer connections on tlie Oreat I^akes, in addition to its
alJ-rail connections.
This hne., with the Canafla Atlantic Railway, provides the
shortest route between
MONTREAL AND OTTAWA;
with the €taicag:o and Grand Trunk Railway, the shortest line
between
MONTREAL AND CHICAGO,
and it reaches nearly every part of Ontario by its own lines
thus reducing transfers and changes to a minim iiin. It has
Tlironglft ('ar6 on Tbroagli Traini^, Parlor and Dinidg €ar»
on Day Trains, Sleepinf? Cars on ^^igrlit Trains, and Ba^ag^e
ie checked through. These advantages, with steel Rails
Superior Rolling Stock, A-c, enable the G. T. R. to meet the
requirements of the travelling public as well as any line on the
continent.
Every facility is afforded for reaching
SUMMER PLEASURE RESORTS.
The Lowei ^ . l.awrence and the Sagnenay Rivers, the
White 9Ioant«»m:.is, I^ake Champlain, Lake Oeorge, Saratoga,
are all points to which passengers are ticketed by this hne.
ExcTirsion tickets are also issued, either all rail or in connec-
lion with steamboat lines, to places West, such as i.ake Superior
and l^ake Huron Ports, Niagara Falls, Kingston and the
Thousand Islands, Aq.
Tickets and further information as to G. T. R. routes can be
had at the ticket offices of the G. T. R. and connecting hnes.
W. ED6AR, L. J. SEAR6EANT, JOSEPH HiCKSON,
Gen. Pass. Agent. TraflBc Manager. General Manager.
BllAWAll I IWBSOI 0. 00.'S
Twenty-£iglit Miles the Shortest Route Be-
tween Montreal and Xew York.
The Only liine to Saratoga, L.ake George, and
liake Chauiplain.
The Most Hireet Route to Troy, Albany, JTew
York, Philaflelphia, and All Points
South and £ast.
Passengers by this Route, during the Summer season, may ex-
change their tickets for those reading '•' Tlirough I^ake Cham-
plain and liake Oeorgo, via the Champlain Transporta-
tion Company's Steamers,*' affording them an opportunity of view-
ing some of the Finest Scenery in Anieriea.
"Wagxer's Elegant Drawing Room and Sleeping Cars Run
Via This Route.
The Through Mail and Express for N"ew York carried over this
Line. During the vsea.-on of naviijation, close connection made at
Troy and Albany with day and night boats on the Hudson River
for Ne ./ York.
Information given and tickets sold at all New York Central
Hudson River an<l N. Y, West Shore and Butfalo Railroad Ticket
Offices in New York, and at the Grand Trunk Ticket Offices, and
at the Company's Office,
143 l^t. James Street, Montreal.
D. M. KENDRICK, CHARLES C. McFALL,
Gen. Pass, Agent, ALBANY. Agent, MONTREAL.
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CANADIAN BOOKS
BY
CANADIAN AUTHORS.
The Life and Times of Sir John A. Macdonald, by J. E. CoUine.
8vo demy; G50 pages. Cloth extra, $3.00; Half Morocco
(Library style), $4.50 ; Full Morocco, $6.00.
Canada under the Administration of Lord Lome, by J. E.
Collins. 8vo demy; GOO pages. Cloth extra, $3.00; Half
Morocco (Library Style), $4.50 ; Full Morocco, $6.00.
Canada under the Administration of the Earl of Dufferin, by
Geo. Stewart, Jr. 8vo. Demy; 700 pages. Cloth extra, $3.
A Trip to Manitoba ; or, Roughing It on the Line, by Mary
Fitzgibbon. Cruwn 8vo. ; 300 pages. Cloth extra, $L00.
Nova Britannia; or. Our New Canadian Dominion Fore-
shadowed, by Hon. Alex. Morris, P.C., D.C.L. Crown 8vo. ;
190 pages. Cloth extra, $0.75.
The World, Round It and Over It, by Chester Glass. Crown
8vo. ; 520 pages. Cloth extra, $1.50.
SEND FOR OUR COMPLETE CATALOGUE.
Our books are sent post-pai<l, to any address in the world on
receipt of published price.
fl
ROSE PUBLISHING CO.
TORONTO, CANADA.
To Tourists and Pleasure Seekers,
.<^:r
IMPROVED ARRANGEMENTS.
THE RICHELIEU & OKTW NAVIIillTiOII CO,'S
LINES OF THROUGH SIDE-WHEEL STEAMERS FROM
TORONTO to MONTREAL, QUEBEC, WHITE MOUN-
TAINS, PORTLAND, LAKE GEORGE, SARA-
TOGA, NEW YORK, RIVIERE DU LOUP,
The Far-famed RIVER SAGUENAY, &c.
f The Riclielieu and Ontario Navigation Company's lines com-
prise the original Royal Mail Line and Richelieu Company's
steamers, with the addition of several new steamers, thus forming
two first-cla?s lines of Passenger steamers, which for speed, safety,,
and comfort cannot be surpassed.
They are the only lines now affording tourists an opportunity to
view the magnificent scenery of
The Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence^
ALSO THE FAErFAMi:D RIVER SAGUENAY.
Sf^ This route possesses peculiar advantages over any other^
ALEX. MILLOY, J. B. LABELLB,
Traffic Manager. General Manager
/
ST. LAWRENCE HALL,
MOI>rTREAL.
HENRY HOGAN, - Proprietor.
For the past 30 years this hotel, familiarly known as the " ST.
LAWRENCE," has been a household word to all Travellers on
the Continent of North America, and has been patronized by all
the Royal and Noble personages who have visited the City of
Montreal.
This hotel, including the entire block, which is admirably
situated, being in the very heart of the city, and contiguous to the
Oeneral Post Office, Public Buildings, and other places of in-
terest and of business, has recently been acquired by Mr. HOGAN,
the former proprietor, who has handsomely and appropriately
decorated and renovated the interior, and completely retitted the
whole of the apartments with new furniture, comprising 100 new
rooms, making the present number of apartments 250. A new and
elegant Passenger Elevator has also been added, and the Hails
and Public Rooms are lighted by tlie Electric and Incandescent
lights, making it the most attractively lighted hotel in the
Dominion.
The hotel is managed by Mr. Samuel Montgomery, under the
immediate supervision of Mr. Hogax. than whom no one is better
qualified to conduct an hostelry of such magnitude as the St.
Lawrence Hall, and than whom no one has gained a better repu-
tation as an obliging, generous and considerate host.
JI^'AU Baggage Checks should be given to the Porters in
attendance.
^^ TERMS MODERATE. -"^g
Dominion Exiiibition,
1884— MONTREAL— 1884
SEPTEMBER 8th TO 13th.
' AGRICULTURAL AND INDUSTRIAL.
Ample Grounds and magnificent buildings for the display of
Live Stock, Manufactured articles, Agricultural Implements, and
Machinery in motion.
Grand International Bench Show of Dogs.
The Exhibition will be in full operation from Friday, Septem-
ber 5th. to Saturday, the 13th, 1884, and will be open till 10 p.m.
each day.
Reduced rates are offered by all the principal Raihvay and
Steamboat Companies.
For all information apply to the undersigned,
S. C. STEVEXSOX. )
> Joint Secretaries,
GEO. EECXERE9 )
76 St. Gabriel Street.
Department of the Interior.
MANITOBA
AND THE
North- West Territories.
MnXIONS OF ACRES OF THE FINEST AGRICULTURAL
LANDS IN THE WORLD OPEN FOR SETTLEMENT.
r
>^
i
Any person, male or female, tlie sole head of a family, or any 1
male who has attained the age of 18 years, can obtain a/ree hcToe-
stead of one quarter section of 160 acres upon any even-numbe'"'^d
section in surveyed agricultural lands, and, in addition, if h^ so
desires. 160 acres as a pre-emption, at $2.50 per acre, payable at ^
the end of three years.
Intending immigrants can, on requisition signed by them, obtain
authority from the Minister of the Interior for any person they
name, to make hom' stead and pre-emption entries for them before
their arrival.
A settler is required to reside upon and cultivate his homestead for
not less than six months in each of three years, at the end of which
time he is entitled to a patent for his land ; or he may reside any-
where within a radius of two miles of his homestead, provided that
{
for three months cext prior to making application for patent, he
shall reside in a house erected on his own homebtead, and have 40
acres of his homestead under cultivation.
I Provision is made for the acquirement by settlers of wood and
(hay lands in connection with their homesteads.
Two sections are reserved out of every township for school pur-
' poses.
I Odd-numbered sections within 24 miles on each side of the
\Canadian Pacific Railway are reserved for that railway, and can
be purchased from the Railway Company.
Odd-numbered sections outside of the Canadian Pacific Railway
/belt, and not within 12 miles of any projected line of railway,
/other than the Canadian Pacific Railway, can be purchased from
I the Government at .$2.50 per acre, payable at time of sale. .
Odd-numbered sections in lands outside of the railway beltj,
land North of the Canadian Pacific Railway belt, can be purchased
/ from the Government at $2.00 per acre, payable at time of sale.
Coal in vast quantities, and of excellent quality, exists in all
parts of the North-West Territories. Tlie minimum prices for
v.oal lands are : for lignite and bituminous coal, $10.00 per acre ;
f*>i anthracite, .$20.00 per acre.
Valuable deposits of gold, silver, copper and iron have already
been discovered in the Rocky Mountains. The price to the original
discoverer for a location not exceeding 40 acres, is $5 per acre.
Full particulars as to the mode of acquiring these mineral lands
may be ascertained on application to the Department of the In-
terior, or at anv Dr.ninion Lands Ofiice.
The Canadian Pacific Railway is now open beyond the summit
of the Rocky Mountains, over one thousand miles west of Winni-
peg, and the whole line is expected to be completed to the Pacific
Ocean early in 1886.
A. M. BURGESS,
Deputy of Oie Minister of the Interior.
li
1
AXdLiA^ XJtWM
OF
Royal Mail Steamsbii
Under Contract with the Governments of Cstnada an<
Newfoundland for the Conveyance of Mails.
-:(>:■
This Company's Lines are composed of the following Doi
Engineii Civile Built
IRON STEAMSHIPS.
They are built in water-tight conj|)artnients, are unsurj)a»."ec
strength, speed and comfort, are fitted up with all the nioi
iniproveu)ent.s that practical experience can suggest, and 1
MADE THE FASTEST TIME ON RECORD.
inJMIDIAN .6100-
SIBERIAN 4600
CARTHAGENIAN 4600
PABISIAN 5400.
SARDINIAN 4650.
POLYNESIAN ,..4100.
S ARMATIAN 3600 .
CIRCASSIAN 4000.
PERTJVIA>I 3400.
NOVA SCOTIAN 3300.
CASPIAN 3200.
HANOVERIAN 4000-
NORWEGIAN 3531-
HIBERNIAN 3440-
AUSTRIAN 2700.
NESTORIAN 2700.
PRUSSIAN 3000.
SCANDINAVIAN 3000.
BUENOS AYREAN 3800-
COREAN 4000.
GRECIAN 3600.
MANITOBAN 3150..
CANADIAN 2600.
PHOENICIAN 2800-
WALDENSIAN 2600.
LUCER NE 2200.
NEWFOUNDLAND 1500-
ACADIAN 1350.
Building. /
liuilding.
Building. /
CAPT. JAMES WYLIE.
LIEUT. W. H. SMITH, K.I
CAPT. R. BROWN.
CAPT. J. GRAHAM.
CAPT. WM. RICHARDSO
CAPT. J. RITCHIE.
CAPT. W. DALZIELL.
CAPT. HUGH WYLIE.
LIEUT. B. THOMSON, R.]
CAPT. J. G. STEPHEN.
CAP!. A. MACNICOL.
LIEUT. R. BARRETT, R.J
CAPT. D. J. JAMES.
CAPT. ALEX. McDOUGi
CAPT. JOHN PARKS.
CAPT. J.SCOTT.
CAPT. R. P. MOORE.
CAPT. C. E. LeGALLAIS.
CAPT. R. CARRUTHERS.
CAPT. C.J. MENZIES.
CAPT. JOHN BROWN.
CAPT. R. H. HUGHES.
CAPT. JOHN KERR.
CAPT. C. MYLIUS.
CAPT. F. McGRATH.
FROM APRIL TO OCTOBER
E3AMERS OP THE LINE SAIL WEEKLY
jFROMLI
ing at
es in C't
>art8 of (
na
>Jorth-V^ef
r
8 of la'Ml
ers. '^ J
rt8 M
uel
or
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1
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'fi
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»I
^NTREAL.
.j^ passengers to all
i ... ^ ..cDec route m the cneapept a id bef*t for
especially to the Province of Manitoba and
itory, consisting of two thousand millions of
portion of whfch is ottered in free grants to
naiuplilets and tenant fanners delegates''
• and all parts of Canada free. Tl 3 passage
-> l*ss than to New York, and a large
>nipa itlvely smooth waters 0. tlieGiilf
's ro e H mo.-t desirable one . >r paseen-
f Ad ^rica as w ' as tc Ci.aaaa. To
^ n * afcsengers have
,age p port of landing.
\LIFAX,
nd Weekly in Winter.
. Pt QUEENSTOWN.
m Halifax are given to
Servants going out
used by applicants
the undersigned or
as.
JTI
A
.es.
.t to 1
?1 fron
il n accommodation at
;r . . Liverpool, carrying
P IIL VDELPHIA, BAL-
'• L FROM
s-^ERY WEEK,
I t) WEEKS,
! L 7»st rates,
t'^ • -lasgow and
1 F ;land and
^ -1 jna^ n Bros. &
] v^ an ; hi- m, Mont-
I 0^ cutc. 5C0tt & C Quebec,
/ ^.ontOj .' Ch]r'^'^ ,. ^ . n & Co. ;
.S., . vAinard «fc Co. ; St. «. ^nn, 17.?. ^ 1 lOmson &
^ s, N.F.. Si'^-^ ^ C-" ^*^w York a. v^nion, Leve &
^; Jtimo^ \ Soil '^ei *^o. ; ^xonte Video and
OS Avres, xu. Sanison & (Jo.
I II. 4&: A« AIiIiAl\%
BOSTON AND MONTREAL
mo
(M)
I-^R
l-^O
115
Uti
105
lOS
Hf.
7.%
T«>
r 1 1 K
DOMINION OF CAN.
A REDUCTION OF THE MAP PREPARED & ISSUED UNDER TH
OF THE MINISTER OF RAILVtfA.YS tt CANALS (l88
d6 Ixmoitudc Wipst fixxm Grtwnwicii >Ht
'^M^MM
80
79
TT
76
PO)ill||iJll©!Nlf«<€^l^B^
SHEWING TH E
r^AILWAYS IN OPEF^TION
1884.
COLLINGWOOD SCHREIBER
• Chief Engineer
GOV HAILWAYS
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I BAILWATS OF CANADA.
Miles In operatlop
1— Albert - ■'
2 — B«y of Quinte and Navigation Co
."< — Canada Atlantic
4 —Canada Southern
."i C>i.naaiM.u Picoiiiu 3152 1
" ' " 200 1 ,
/^alloy 184 ^
8 — Toronto, Urey A Bruce 191
9 — Carillon & Grenville
10 - Central Ontario
11 — Chatham Branch
12 — CobourB, Veterboro' & Marmora
13 — Erie A H uron .
6 — Ontario <& Quebec'.
Credit Va
i;
32
9
47
40
14 — Grand Southern 82*
15 — Grand Trunk 903 1
1ft— Buffalo A Lake Huron 162
17 — tJrand Trunk, Ooor. Bay A L. Krie 184
18— Great Western 692
19 — London i Port Stanley 24
20— WelliuKton. Grey & Bruce 168
21 — London, Huron A Bruce 69
22— Brantford, Norfolk A Port Burwell 35
Xi— Wellaud ' 25
24— Jlidliuid - 144
25 — Toronto A Nipisping 105
26 — Victoria 86
27— Whithv. Port P.riy A Lindxav 4«5
2856i
Mries in op«i-ation.
GoTemineut Railways :
31 — Intercolonial 919 > m-x
32— Prince Ed wurd Island 198* J "''»
33 — International 69*
34— K«nt Northern. 1»
35— Kingston A Pembroke 80
36 — Manitoba South-Western SI
If! — Manitoba A North- AVestem 79
38 — Mussa winui Valley 34
39 — Mont real a: Vermont Junction 231
40 — Ne\T Brunswick 174 )
41— New Brunswick A Canada 127 > 324*
42— Frodericton 23* ) _
43 — Northern A North-Westem 377*
44 — Petitcodiac A Elgin 314
45 - Quebec A Lake St. John 36
46— QuobcL- Central 145
47— S'ansfead, Shcfford A Chambly 43
48— St. John A Maine 32
49 — St. Lawrence A Ottawa W
50-St. Martin's A Upham 30
51— South-Eastern 140 )
52— Lake Ohamplain A St. Lawrence. 63 > 239
53 — Montreal. Portland A Boston 36 >
54— Spring Hill A Parrsboro' 32
5.5— Waterloo A Magog 23 i ™
5«5— Missisquoi Valley 10 < *^
IRI
.■*— 4 •ni»it«
4 ('aiincia
A-- OntBr
7- »•»
•- I-.,
W C«rll|..ii
10 ('«■■! isl
It Chikiliai
1'^- A**'l"»'»» i
I.V-iCri. .* 1
14— 4lrnii<t .i
A-Un»in» i
«- III
la- UrMi
\*- I..
RAILWAYS OF CANADA, t
m
7
IhmH .,.,
»r Uuiiita Kn<l Navlsatlwn Oo.
»<tM AltAiitln
iin<tit Nuutharn ■
•>ii(«rl<i A Quabca*
<'r<Miit VnlUy
Mll«t In Ofaratlon,
AU
it**«**««i*
'I'liroiitai.Oray A Bra
^'arllloii A Ureiivillfi
Cuiilriil < )iil»rl
Hruii'-b
M
VI
II Clinlli
lV-Krl«i A ll.ir
14 — <lritii<l riuiiilitirn.
|/V — UrKiiiJ Trunk
1*^-
17 -
i;^}
£
2737
I'xlnrhuro' it klMSMir*
•Ji -
21-
2-J -
liulfalo A Ij»k« Huron
Mritiiil Trunk, (l«<jr. U«y A. L. Bri*
(irfiit Wnalctrn
■ .•(ndiiii i I'nrt .St»riley
" Hi
•-'7 —
162
l»4
MK2
24
1«M
m
an
144
ion
4«1
IN)
IW
Montrtml A Horxl 47
• llin«tun, (Jr<-y 4LHruaa
ii'tim, liur<in m Bruoe .
»iiirur<l, Nurfulk A Port 1
Burwall
W»inn«tuji
l<r»
WolUuci
Ml.lUi.it .
Turoiilo A NIpUainc •
V'l<-turU
Whiltty, Port Perry A Lind«»y
Uritnfl Junulinn
Norlli Hli<>r«
/..
JMtW
Mil** In oparaliufi.
(litvriTiinxiil IlitllwBya:
31— liitrr<'<>liiniiil »1» * iii-»
Prtn<'« Kiiwnrtl UijMid IMi { '"''
[tit«rn»ll<>nitl IW^
i iiiBUliiii A I'l'inhroh* • W
IhiiIioIik South w»a(fim 51
17 — MMiiiiolm A North Wwilem 79
•M — MuNNAWiiOfl VmIImv. • «i4
M^— Moiitrr'nl A ViTiiiont Junt'lion 3Ai
4l>— Nrw HriitiHwioh 174 i
41 - N.<w Hrunawiok A C'aoad* 137 > JOH
42— Kr<«l<.ri<-toti 23t >
4:4— Nortbrrn A North-Weitam. S77|
44- -PatltrmJia.' A Klain 14
if> Queb» A l^« HI. John W
44 — Uudbor CoiitrMl , 14ft
47— Atanat<*«ii, Hhcirord A Cbambly 43
4H— «t. .loliii A Maine V»
40— 8t. l^wroiK-e A Ottawa HO
n)-Ht. Mnrtin'x A Upbani 30
51— Houth Kiwtrrii 140 >
0*2— l^k« ChnmpUtn A St. I<awrcno«. 03 > 2»W
&3— Montreal. HortUnd It Boatoo 9A )
ft4— 8urln« Illll A P»rr»b«ro' .T2
VS — Waterloo A Macqa 2» ( ...,
Srt— MisiiiKquoT Valley 10 \ "
fl7 — Wvatrrn (.'ountina , 67
M — Windaor A Antiapolia H4 ( < i,i
ft»— W I ndaor Branch .T2 { "
OOVftNNMtNT RAILWAYS. — Putpla
QRANO TRUNK SYSTCM.— Slu*
CANADIAN PACIFIC Rart.
CANADA SOUTHERN RAILWAY, — Yallow.
NORTHCRN Ik NORTH. WKSTKRN RY. — Oraen.
ALL OTHER RAILWAYS, — Bro...r
miiuMAtte imic(»*Mtc ce tteitnui