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MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD Bv LUCIEN BIART AUTHOR UK "the AUV£NTUKES OK A VOt'NU NATURALIST TRANSI.ATF.n HY MARY 1)E HAUTEVILLE ^r' ^"^ XFrontispit'it' LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY, Ltd. ^t. S)unstan'6 i^ouet, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. I 89 I [All Rights Reserred] ABERDEEN UNIVERSITY PRESS. TO MY BROTHER EDWARD, WHO IS NOW RAMBLING IN THE TROPICAL REGION OF QUEENSLAND, I DEDICATE MY TRANSLATION OF MONSIEUR BIART's RAMBLES ON THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. MARY DE HAUTEVILLE. TfSLiiv^^l: " -.ti TRANSLATOR'S NOTE. The only liberty which I have ventured to take with this work of M. Biart's has been in giving it a ne\^ title. The title of the original work is A Travers L Amerique^ a literal translation of which would have approached too nearly the title of an English work already existing ; besides which, I venture to think it scarcely conveys to the reader so clear an idea of the character of the work as that which I have chosen. In all other respects I have adhered as closely to the original as has been consistent with rendering it into what I trust may be considered readable English. take with new title. mertque,2i ached too existing ; |onveys to the work espects I has been may be CONTENTS. LABRADOR. CHAPTBR PACB I. The Si>«i— Floating ice-blocks— Master Simeon — Greenland — Corter^al— A salvage — Ouanga i II. The little Esquimaux— The toilet of an uncivilized beauty — An ill-bred child— Civilizing effects of an accordion — Mr. and Mrs. Stewart — A house under the snow — Mrs. Oblouk* '•nillCK ••• ,,, ,,, ,,, ,,a *•• t*f ••# •• III. The sledge drive— A rustic supper — The Oblouk- Kanick house- hold — A snow village — Origin of the Esquimaux — A new use for buttons — Return to Canada ai I. II. III. II. A CANADIAN FAMILY. The Canadian cross-bill — On a hunting excursion — A chance meeting — What a few acres of snow were worth — Mont- calm and Wolfe — The St. Lawrence — Quebec — The forests — The storm — An American hat — A wrong direction — Another meeting Miss Louise — Arrival at the Secret Valley — Grandfather Martin— A patriarchal evening — What is Mr. Peter ? — A mistake — An enfant terrible — Another search for the Loxia A panorama — An unexpected meeting — Luncheon in the woods — Pleading in Miss Louise's favour — Return to the farm — Pleading in Peter's favour — " All's well that ends well " — TYi^ Loxia ... ... ... ... ... ... 30 41 5' NIAGARA IN WINTER. The coasts of Canada — Sir John Burton — Miss Mary's cloak — Halifax — A sledge drive — A restaurant in a cellar — An oyster-fight— American liberty — Sir John again 61 The palisades of the Hudson — A stolen repast — Is it he ? — The Falls — The suspension bridge — Blondin's rope — Under the Niagara — Cincinnati — An introduction 69 SAN FRANCISCO. The Chinese theatre — A fellow-countrjonan — The El Dorado of Cortez — The village of San Francisco — A rich proprietor — A gaming-room — A Yankee, Yankee, and a half—" A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush " 80 VI CONTENTS. TORTOISE ISLAND. CHAPTBH PAUB I. Departure from Havre — Deerfoot — Sehor Baudoin— Count Monistrol and Baron Martin — The trade winds — Equatorial calm — The Phaeton— An arrest 87 II. Scarcity of fresh water — The calm — Flying-fish — Dorado- Tropical grass — St. Domingo — Tortoise Island — Free- booters and pirates — An unexpected meeting 96 III. Return to ship — The captain and Dofia Clara — A man-of-war — The pursuit — Prisoners ! — Baudoin*s departure — The spermaceti whales — Campeachy — Lambert again — Andr^- •"^ •riC ••• ••• «»« ««a ««« ««« ttt ■•• •^J A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. St. Thomas — The Reverend Mi. Smith — The waterspout at sea — A wish realized — Fears calmed 116 CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. I. Havannah — Preliminary formulas — A good dinner — In search 121 of a lodging — A restless night ... II. Fraternity — Sons and daughters of kings — Abuse of saffron — A negro ball 129 FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. I. Departure from Havannah — The slavery question — The Gulf Stream — The Mississippi — A kidnapping business ... 138 II. Departure for M^ssangbre — The unfortunate Thomas — The danger of letting a dress get wet — A New Yorkist, and a native of Louisiana — A curious way of getting a husband 146 III. Moli^re and the education of women — New Orleans — Scarcity of filtered water — The Cincinnati and the 3^aci(5o;i— Ball onboard — A guest without knowing it — Conclusion ... 155 THE HORSE-TAMER. The mouse-coloured horse — Yankees and Texians — An ac- cident — Alone ! — Don Jose — The wild horse — A terrible night 167 TENOCHTITLAN. Arrival of the Spaniards at Mexico — The palaces of Montezuma — The modern town— The National Palace — The theatres — Itinerant merchants— Society 179 SS PAGE I— Count quatorial 87 )orado— d— Free- 96 in-of-war re— The -Andr^. 105 spout at 116 n search 121 saffron — ... 129 he Gulf • . . 138 18— The , and a lusband 146 jcarcity i»-Ball ... 155 Vn ac- terrible ... 167 6zuma reatres CONTENTS. Vii THE PEARL FOREST. CMAPTBR PAQB I. Isidro— Don Anastasio V I fired " " This room — full of stalactites • • • • .. Frontispiece Tofacepag e 12 •• 24 • • f» 33 •1 40 f» 5H II 68 • • II 76 • • If 85 • • ti 95 M 102 II 118 • • II 130 •• II 149 II 159 11 163 II 176 • • II 177 II 180 »l 194 >» 201 •• II 228 '•• tl 237 •• II 244 >•• II 249 •• II a6i II 278 tl 288 M (( Port The ! then, ge left, dip tain of i This since at musical which, e the cun often ev and at tl desolate of )ead ; on our of ice, "Afi "ul tone, 'A fine SIS. FroMispiece To face fag e 12 M 24 ft 33 •f 40 (1 5« It 68 ft 76 tt 85 n 95 tt 102 •• 118 It 130 le g- ill JS id ^ i n 111 o Q /. Q ^, O X a: < O w X H X |Th (a^'. %- - » ■ - iw^ I ; ;,T;yBiBi,| rt'^i g^rrt^ LABRADOR. «3 life. Long fasts encourage gluttony ; and one can truly say of this people, that they live to eat instead of eating to live. Before supper, I went up to take a turn o»i deck. What was my surprise to find myself in a kind of half daylight ! High up in the sky, at last cleared of the grey snow-laden clouds which had veiled her for a week, the moon shone brilliantly, and flooded the sea and cliffs with her white, silvery light. Nothing can be grander than these mountains of ice thus illumined — sometimes cut in sha.p ridges, sometimes rounded like cupolas ; but a vague feeling of sadness crept over me before this stereo- typed picture. The air seemed sharper and more biting than in the morning; the thermometer had, in fact, gone down several degrees. Our evening meal, invariably composed of bacon, salt beef, or preserved mutton, wit'i rice, beans, or lentils, was very quickly despatched. Master Simeon, a firm advocate for tem- perance, a virtue still more necessary in these rigorous climates than elsewhere, allowed the crew no other drink than tea. It required a holiday or some perilous work to get a distribution of grog, which was the more appreciated on account of its scarcity. The sailors, with their pipes alight, stretched them- selves on mattresses around the stove, whilst Master Simeon and the captain undertook a quiet hand at cards, which lasted until nine o'clock. At this appointed hour the lights were extinguished, and I was lulled to sleep by the creaking of the ship and the splashing of the waves against her hull. The next morning, whilst I was making my toilet, I saw Ouanga's large eyes open and fix themselves on me with artless curiosity. She came and took hold of my hand, as though she were wishing me good-morning ; then turning towards the basin, full of soapy water which I had just used, she took off a kind of tunic which served her as a dress, and displayed herself attired simply in her fur pantaloons. After a moment's hesitation and a series of comic grimaces, she washed her face and hands with an awkwardness which showed how little she was accustomed to such an operation. I hastened to give her a towel; she took it, examined it, and turned it round twenty 4\ 14 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. times ; evidently this white, finely-spun linen was a curiosity to her. I handed her a comb ; she unplaited her hair and began at once to comb it. When she began to plait it again I handed her a pot of pomade ; she smelt it, and turned away with a look of disgust, as though the smell of lemon were very ob- noxious to her. To make up for this she tried to dip her fingers in the oil of the lamp which lighted us ; and, succeeding in her attempt, she copiously greased her hair. Master Simeon entered the cabin, and Ouanga at once ran up to him and patted him |.'ently on the shoulder. She put on all her clothes except the hood, and then pointed to the teapot and cups. As on the preceding evening, she ate with disagree- able greediness ; it was not only hunger but a national custom which caused her to swallow the pieces we helped her to without biting them. I had the idea of cutting up her meat as one does for children, and offering her a fork ; but whilst I was carefully cutting up the piece intended for her, the nimble young woman robbed my plate, and part of my meat had disappeared before I had time to cry out. In short, Ouanga was a great, badly-behaved child. She took Master Simeon's pipe without the least ceremony, and puffed away at it in a manner which clearly showed that it was not her first trial. The Esquimaux women do indeed smoke sometimes, but it is by no means a general custom among them. As soon as she was satisfied — that is to say, as soon as the dishes were taken away — Ouanga prowled inquisitively round the cabin, touching everything, feeling everywhere, and questioning us by gesture and look as to the things of which she did not know the use. My clothes seemed to interest her more than anything else — their shape and cut, but especially the buttons with which they were trimmed and which she tried to pull off. I had the ill-advised idea of showing her the box in which I kept my reserve of buttons ; the box immediately disappeared, and was probably stowed away in some hidden pocket of the young woman's clothes. Neither my peremptory demands nor my vexed look could regain me my treasure ; either Ouanga could not understand my demands, or else she pretended not to understand them, and I was done out of my box of buttons. LABRADOR. 15 I When we went up on deck the young woman at once followed us, but she quickly ran down again when she felt the cold air, and muffled herself up in her hood ; then, coming back, she placed herself near me. The weather was fine, and the sun, which was every day getting higher in the heavens, made the influence of his pale rays felt, although somewhat feebly. Ouanga's looks were directed towards the land, which we were now at some distance from, and she uttered an exclama- tion. After attentively watching the man at the helm, she pointed to the cliffs and tried to make him turn the wheel. Seeing that the ship continued her route undisturbed, she ran up to Master Simeon, seized his arm, and with her right hand pointed first to the ship's boat and then to the land, whilst she talked rapidly. One could not doubt but that the poor creature was begging him to take her back to the shore which we seemed to be leaving behind us. Seeing that they paid no attention to her entreaties and the ship pitilessly continued her course, Ouanga began to groan and then to cry. Her tears flowed freely, and we were all moved at the sight of her despair. The sailors tried to make the young woman understand that she would be on land the next day, that they would then take her back to her tribe, and that she must not cry. All was in vain ; she jumped into the boat and tried to detach it. " Well, really," said Master Simeon, " 1 doubt whether we ought not to take her back to land. Her tribe is perhaps camped in front of us ; and when she sees that we are leaving them behind the poor creature is capable of throwing herself into the water. How can we explain that it is for her good that we are keeping her ? " " Can we not go and look for them ? " I asked. •' We should be obliged to climb those cliffs first, Mr. Parisian, and the thing seems to me impossible. Let us leave this poor woman to cry, although her sobs are heartrending : humanity urges us now to stoj) up our ears." Like a child, who, after a long fit of passion and a tempest of tears, sobs, sighs, and then falls asleep, Ouanga, weakens J, conquered, and watched, went back to the cabin, threw herself i6 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. on her mattress, and soon slept soundly. She did not awake until dinner time, and then ate as usual, with a very good appetite. She refused the pipe filled with tobacco which Master Simeon offered her, and crouched down near the stove, where for a long while she watched the red-hot cinders falling from the grate. I persuaded the young woman to follow me on deck. She hesitated at first, and then made up her mind to go with me ; but directly she saw the land she began to cry again, and my consolations, delivered in French, English, and Spanish, proved as unsuccessful as ever. All at once the sound of an accordion was heard in the cabin, played by one of the sailors, who sometimes enlivened us with his Canadian airs. Ouanga was startled, and cast frightened , looks around her ; then, as though attracted, she went down to the cabin, and stood spell-bound before the musician. When he left off playing, she went up to him, put her hand out towards the instrument, and then drew it back as thodgh afraid to touch it. The sailor began another air, and the young woman sat down by him, examining with curiosity the movement of his fingers. Was she sensible of the harmony, or was it only the noise that attracted her? What is certain is, that wlien the musician retired, after putting his instrument into its box, Ouanga tried to detain him, and followed him on deck. The next day, as soon as it was light, I saw that we were approaching land. We passed between two small islands ; then we went through a narrow channel, and came out unexpectedly into an extensive bay. In front of us lay a flat shore, and to our left a promontory, surmounted with a pole, from the top of which waved the English flag. I had hardly recovered from my surprise when the sailors shouted repeated hurrahs. The end of our difficult voyage was at last attained. Soon, and as though they sprang from the plain of snow which extended before us, a score of men appeared, making signals to us. An hour later the Siren, perfectly sheltered, dropped anchor alongside a wharf constructed on piles. We were in a kind of narrow channel not unlike that in the hollow of which the town of St. Thomas, in the island of the same name, ' "•■^.?-''* LABRADOR. 17 > f is built ; only, instead of palm trees, orange trees, and pome- granates crowning the heights, blocks of ice with sharp peaks and fantastic forms rose around us. Ouanga, mad with joy, whirled herself round on deck like a squirrel in a cage. In her haste to leave the ship she would certainly have fallen into the water had I not watched her. At last Master Simeon's employes were able to come on board ; they had received no news from Europe for a year, so Heaven knows what huggings, and what an avalanche ot questions, we were overwhelmed with. The hunting and fishing had been good, and the Siren would go back well laden with barrels of oil, bear skins, and walrus tusks. Master Simeon introduced his principal partner, Mr. Stewart, to me ; I say principal, for all the men employed in the station had a share in the profits realized. My character as tourist made these hard-working men smile, but I nevertheless received a very cordial welcome. Ouanga was not long in attracting attention, and what we knew of her history was quickly told. We then learnt that the evening before several Esquimaux belonging to a village about ninety miles off had come to make inquiries about the young woman. The tribe were in great distress, and could not explain her disappearance. Her husband had left her occupied with watching the fishing-lines, and the block of ice on which she was had moved away. They had searched the coast, but in vain ; and they thought Ouanga lost. No one knew the Esquimaux language sufficiently to explain these things to Ouanga, so we were obliged to wait for the return of the interpreter, who was now on an expedition. The young w'oman questioned each of the workmen ; but they could only answer with fragments of sentences, which did not seem to satisfy her at all. One of the new-comers tried to explain to her that the next day she would be taken back to her village. Did she understand him ? Mr. Stewart led us to his house, then imbedded in six feet of snow, like all the other buildings in the trading-station. This trading-station — I use the name given it by the proprietors — was composed of four extensive buildings, three of which served c i8 MY RAMBLES fN THE NEW WORLD. as warehouses, and the fourth as a dwelling-place. One entrance, only communicating with a long corridor, gave access to this house, divided into small apartments. The rooms had no furniture but what was barely necessary ; but my surprise was great on being iniroduc d to Mrs. Stewart, a graceful Irish lady, who had bravely followed her husband to this desolate place. Two other women, both Canadians, constituted, with Mrs. Stewart, the whole of the feminine population of the station. Mrs. Stewart, owing to her position, had a private suite of rooms — that is to say, a bed-room, sitting-room, and dining-room, lighted both day and night by lamps with unclarified oil, the odour of which was anything but agreeable. A large stove, placed in the general sitting room, heated the whole house ; they burnt a kind of peat, gathered in the neighbourhood, which also had a very bad, sickening smell, and almost made me ill. However, 1 grew accustomed to these disagreeable odours sooner than I had dared hope ; only every lime I came in from the open air I held my nose for a few seconds in order to accustom myself gradually to the heavy and to me almost pestilential atmosphere, in which my companions were living without appearing to notice it. They put up a bed for me in Master Simeon's room, and I had the use of half the large table on which he made up his accounts, an occupation which began the night of our arrival. They proceeded without delay to unload the Siren, and it was no little pleasure to Mrs. Stewart to have half-a-dozen cases bearing her name to unpa( k. Master Simeon had thought about the household and toilet of his partner's wife, and had brought her many pretty and fashionable things. At dinner time, instead of the long fur dressing-gown she had worn all day, Mrs. Stewart appeared in an elegant costume which literally astounded Ouanga. I spent my first day in visiting all the warehouses of the station, admiring the barrels of oil, the sacks of feathers, and the piles of bear, reindeer, and hare skins, collected by Master Simeon's laborious workmen. What pleased the shipowner more than anything was the sight of a (juantity of walrus tusks. LABRADOR. 19 d I his val. s no ring the her Id of :s, an article in great requisition at New York. The property thus accumulated would bring the owner a profit of several thousand dollars. Ouanga had accompanied us everywhere, and twice she led me to the shed, where were about thirty fine dogs struggling and howling piteously ; five or six of them were Newfound- landers, and were, 1 was told, the leaders of the sledge team. I admired the I^brador dog, a similar breed to the Newfound- land, with jet black hair, a fine shape, and intelligent head. The rest of the kennel was composed of Esquimaux dogs, so much like wolves that one has to look twice to distinguish them. I passed the evening talking with Mrs. Stewart and asking her questions. The young woman did not seem to feel he* isolated life very dull ; she often accompanied her husband on his hunting and fishing excursions. Summer and the long days were coming on ; they would at last be able to leave the house in which the darkness obliged them to remain, and this pros- pect was consolmg. As to the cold, one would never have thought where we were sitting that we were under several feet of snow, and that the thermometer outside was nearly twenty- five degrees below zero. I slept soundly that night and so long that I had only just finished dressing when I heard some one calling me to break- fast. When that meal was finished I went outside to breathe the fresh air, and Ouanga led me towards the promontory from which waved the English fl:ig. The hardened snow did not even crunch beneath my feet ; but I admired my companion's powers of equilibrium as she rapidly climbed several slopes, whilst I was slipping about awkwardly and once or twice almost fell. At last we got out of the inlet which sheltered the station, and by the light of the rising sun I .saw a flat, white, extensive plain stretching before me, whilst on my left rose mountains which seemed to me transparent. In our countries, when the land is covered with snow, bushes and trees rise up here and there, and one feels that there is life — life ready to awaken beneath the great white mantle, the brilliancy of which dazzles the eye: but the vast plain spread out 20 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. before me was so desolate-looking that I turned sadly from it. Ouanga, on the contrary, smilingly examined the horizon ; she pointed to a spot in the direction of the mountains, and then made a long discourse. She was undoubtedly talking to me of her village, and I again tried to explain to her that she would be taken back there on the following day; but I had some trouble in getting her to return to the station. My day passed in seeing barrels and bales of goods taken down to the Stre» ; I even helped in the work, as much to pass away the time as to escape from the heavy, sickening atmo- sphere of the house. In the evening a whist-party was arranged, and Mrs. Stewart helped us to some excellent tea, for which Ouanga appeared to have a special liking. About nine o'clock everyone was asleep in this secluded corner of Hudson's Bay, disputed by man with the walrus and while bear. I was awakened next morning by loud talking, and, entering the dining-room, I found Master Simeon and Mr. Stewart in company with a man whom I did not recognize as one of the workmen I had helped the evening before. It was the inter- preter, a Canadian, who had been almost brought up among the Esquimaux. He had just returned from his expedition, and he told us that the whole tribe to which Mrs. Oblouk- Kanick (day of snow) belonged were roaming along the sea- shore in search of the young woman. Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick was no other than she whom we called Ouanga, a word which signifies / or ;//■ H; 24 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. delight wlicii he learnt that Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick was living ; and, joining in our pursuit, he travelled with us. Suddenly he urged on his dogs, pointing to tiie horizon, and, thanks to the lightness of his sledge, soon outstripi)ed us. Master Simeon's telescope, levelled in the direction indicated by the native, made him utter a joyful exclamation. Ouanga was in front of us. For my part, this news acted as a stimulant, and made the blood tingle in my veins ; for, in spite of the weight of skins over me, my limbs were beginning to get numb. An exciting race now ensued, and the Escjuimaux would certainly have gained the prize had not his sledge been sharply overturned in wishing to bar the way to the interpreter. We stopped a moment to help the Esquimaux ; but during this time the interpreter and Master Simeon had reached the fugitive, who, exhausted, and perhaps frightened at seeing herself pursued, had just fallen unconscious on the frozen ground. A spoonful of rum, followed by vigorous rubbing, soon restored poor Ouanga to life, and her first movement was an attempt at flight ; but the interpreter and her countryman manrjed to reassure the young woman. A consultation was held. At about fifteen miles from the place we had reached was a snow hut, constructed partly by the E.squimaux, and partly by the workmen of the trading station, which served as a kind of storehouse. It was agreed that we should rest under this shelter, and then pursue our way as far as Ouanga's tribe. It was on my account that Mr.- Stewart and Master Simeon had proposed this halt, a kindness for which I warmly thanked them. In order to make room for Ouanga, the interpreter took his place in the Esquimaux's sledge, and we resumed our journey forwards. The dogs, hungry and tired, were at last gentle and tractable enough, so that we were able to drive side by side. The sun was just setting when we came in sight of the shelte. w'here we intended to pass the night, a simple snow-hut, the entrance to which was an opening hardly large enough for a man to get through. The dogs, immediately unharnessed, were driven before us into this gloomy retreat. Ouanga, guided by the ced his ide. Ite. the r a ere he i I 11 LABRADOR. 25 interpreter, was soon able to light a lamp and then a peat fire, belore which she cooked the game the Escjuimaux had politely ^iven to us. Constructed, as I have said, partly by the Ks(|uimau.\, and partly by the workers of the trading-station, the hut which sheltered us was a kind of inn. It was provided with com- bustibles, dried fish, cooking-utensils, and some household objects. The heat soon became so intense in this room, scarcely four yards wide at the most, that Ouanga and her countryman unceremoniously took off their cloaks, and we were not long in following their example. I had chu.s a foretaste of the comfort enjoyed in the dwellings of the Esquimaux, or ea/ers of raw fish. The dogs, which were looked after first of all, greedily devoured the dried fish thrown to them. After being well fed, they were shut up in a corridor which served as ante- chamber to the hut, and all of them went (juickly to sleep. We ate with good appetites; for a drive such as we had taken, under a rigorous temperature, is worth all the tonics possible. I should not certainly recommend to delicate people the hare- steaks smoked over a peat fire, and still less fish-steaks dressed in the same way ; but this evening I found them as savoury as a beef-steak a la Chabrilland. Thanks to Mr, Stewart's fore- thought, we had some excellent tea ; and this warm drink, although not sweetened, was as delicious as it was refreshing. Ouanga and her countryman stretched themselves before the fire, and were not long in going to sleep. The heavy atmosphere we were breathing made us also feel the need of rest. Towards five o'clock in the morning I was awakened by the howling of the dogs ; Mr. Stewart, the interpreter, and Master Simeon were feeding them. I learnt that Ouanga and the Esquimaux had already started, and that we were to overtake them. I under- took to prepare some steaks and the tea, a repast to which was added a tin of preserved beef. It was not till seven o'clock in the morning, with a bright moon shining overhead, that we set off at a gallop, in the direction of the hills, at the foot of which lay Ouanga's village. The sun was just rising when, without any delay, we entered I 26 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. the encampment. Imagine about thirty mounds of an irregular form sheltered by a hill from the north wind, a snow-clad hill on which here and there were pine-trees at some distance from each other. Black smoke was issuing from the tops of a few of these mounds ; the Esquimaux burned peat as at the trading- station. • We were hailed by a little, portly man, with a radiant face, who was talking with several of his countrymen, and seemed to be watching for our arrival. It was Mr. Oblouk-Kanick ; he had come to invite us to his house. He did not thank us for having saved his wife ; in that we had only performed a natural duty. The little man preceded us through a long muddy gallery, which led to the interior of his dwelling. There we saw Ouanga busying herself in household affairs, and talking at the same time with a dozen women accompanied by as many children. v - The young woman came and sl'.ock Master Simeon's hand, and made him sit down on a bear-skin near the stove. As for me, I coughed enough to kill myself, and was quite blinded. I think I had never been in a more noisome hole in my life than that in which I now found myself. The smoke of a large lamp, mingled with that of the peat and the smell of rancid oil, joined to that of refuse of all kinds which strewed the ground, suffocated me. I tried to make my way to the door, thinking that it would be impossible to breathe in this suffocating atmo- sphere, made more unbearable by the presence of unpleasant- smelling people. The hut gradually became empty, and the only remaining occupants of the narrow space were Ouanga's father, her sister, and two sisters-in-law, which was still too many. My fit of coughing was at last allayed, and my eyes ceased watering ; I could gradually distinguish my surroundings. The only room of Mr. Oblouk-Kanick's winter residence was of an oval form, six feet long and four feet wide. The eatables were piled up in a little loft, and a heap of skins served at the same time as seat, table, and bed. Ouanga, her sisters-in-law, and all their friends were naked down to the waist, and did not I LABRADOR. 27 1 seem at all disturbed by this simplicity of costume. Besides, the heat became so intense that, following the example of Mr. Stewart and Master Simeon, I soon reduced my costume to ny shirt and trousers. The Oblouk-Kanick household wished to do us honour, and a large fish, a kind of sturgeon, caught in a neighbouring lake, so I was told, was soon broiling over the peat fire, and renewed my fit of suffocation ; nevertheless, I am convinced Ouanga's hut was one of the most comfortable in the village. The leaf-hut of the Indian is a palace compared to the narrow, bad-smelling cellars in which the Esquimaux shuts himself up. How little it requires to live, and to live happily ; for all the people in the tribe appeared to me to be happy ! The Esquimaux has hardly any other desire than that of eating ; therefore, when the hunting and fishing are good, his highest wishes are fulfilled. Fish, walruses, seals, and elks furnish all his wants ; their flesh feeds him, their skin clothes him, and their bones serve as the chief material for the fabrication of the things he has need of. Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick would take us to the place where she had almost perished, and I was surprised to find that we were hardly a mile from the sea. They made us visit several dens, all like, except in dimension, the one I had been in. I made inquiries, hoping that one of these dwellings might be unoccu- pied, and that we could camp there. Vain hope ! We were obliged to pass the night in the nar'-ow space of Ouanga's hut ; and although I placed myself near the passage, thinking that a little air might enter through the door, the said door was so well shut that I was forced to resign, myself to suffocation, which I considered would be certain. However, nothing so alarming happened ; but direciiy I awoke I hurried out to get a long breath of icy air. Master Simeon and Mr. Stewart again visited the huts, making ex- changes. As evening came on it was agreed that we should set out tgain for the trading station as soon as the moon appeared on the horizon. I had thought for a moment of staying a few days in the 28 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. village, in order to study the customs which seemed to me singular, and to get a correct idea of the Esquimaux. Hardly had I expressed this desire when I received twenty invitations ; they were anxious to take me to the hunting and fishing, and to let me witness some of their festivals. The summer was coming on, and the tribe would change about from place to place on the borders of Hudson's Bay, from whence I was told it would be easy to reach Canada. All this was very tempting; but the atmosphere of the huts gave me such violent headaches, and the food to which I should have been condemned was so repugnant to me, that, checking my curiosity and love of adven- ture, I made up my mind to return with my companions. On the way I learnt from the interpreter that the Esquimaux say themselves that they originally came from Asia. At a remote period, which learned geographers date as far back as the reign of Ghengiskhan, a considerable emigration of Tartars peopled the Aleutian isles, Alaska and Labrador. Had the fugitives continued a direct line, they would have reached Greenland, and thus peopled the farthest confines of America. What is certain is that the Esquimaux whom I had the oppor- tunity of seeing bore an incontestible resemblance to the Tartar type. Short of stature, copper-coloured skin, stoutly built, eyes obliquely set, large mouth, thin beard, hair more often black than fair — such is the Esquimaux of Labrador. In short, the men are very plain-looking ; but the women have a lively air, and their large expressive eyes lend a charm to their faces. Although the loading of the Siren was steadily got on with by all the workmen, Master Simeon had several hunting and fishing parties arranged for my benefit. I killed some hares, a fox, and a seal, but I only saw walruses, elks, and bears in imagination, which I regret even now ; for who ever travelled in the polar seas without encountering a white beai ? I alone, I believe. If the truth must be confessed, it was a dull journey, and a trip from which I derived very little good. The vast snow- clad landscapes, always the same, always silent, make me feel melancholy whenever I shut my eyes and see them again in LABRADOR. 29 imagination. During the month I passed on the borders of Hudson's Bay I saw not an insect, bird, or plant. So when the b Ul for departure rang I hailed the sound with delight. Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick came to wish us good-bye, and I saw all the brass buttons which she had stolen from me displayed eftectively on the fur cloak in which she was enveloped. The young woman appeared lo be very proud of these ornaments, and I very much regretted that I had not another box to offer her. She gave me a fox-skin in token of friendship, and several other little things made of bone, which I had asked her to get for me. In recognition of this service I took her to my port- manteau, and let her choose what pleased her. She did not wait to be asked, but immediately pounced on my looking-glass, a shirt, two towels, a paper collar, and, in short, used n jch discretion in her choice, taking only the objects she saw were in pairs. On the 20th of June the Siren left her moorings ; towed by the sailors and workmen of the trading-station, she quitted the little bay which had sheltered her for a month. I bade farewell to my hosts, whose courage I admired. It is true that, after four or five years of this severe exile, they would most likely return to Canada rich enough to live happily. I wished them all good fortune, especially Mr. Stewart and his charming wife. The channel was soon passed, and the mainsail unfurled. The farewell hunahs were shouted, and our bows cut the waves. The cliffs, the ice-mountains, gradually assumed a bluish tint, and the next day at sunrise we were between sea and sky. With what delight five weeks later I hailed the flowery banks of the St. Lawrence ! I travelled to Quebec by land, so happy was I to find myself among plants and flowers, and to see the birds flying. Honour to those brave pioneers who seek the still unknown passage to the North Pole! Pur my part, I have sworn, al- though perhaps somewhat tardily, that no one shall ever again persuade me to visit those lands of darkness, ice, and snow. There is nothing like sunshine. i A CANADIAN FAMILY. CHAPTER I. The Canadian cross-bill — On a hunting excursioi — A chance meeting — What a few acres of snow were worth — Montv^alm and Wolfe — The St. Lawrence — Quebec — The forests — The storm — An American hat — A wrong direction — Another meeting. The Canadian cross-bill {Loxia Enucleator) is a sparrow with orange-red plumage and wings edged with white, a specimen of which my friend, Professor Sumichrast, very much desired. On my departure for Canada the learned ornithologist urgently begged me to bring him back two specimens of these beautiful birds, which I ought to find in abundance in the woods around Quebec. My friend had taken the trouble to write out a long description for me, in order that I should not confuse the real cross-bill with similar species. Thus I knew that in old age the bird in question is of an orange-red, the female brown, and the young ones ash-coloured. But in its first year the plumage of the cross-bill is a deep crimson, and it was a bird in that livery that my friend wished for. A week after my arrival at Quebec I provided myself with a gun, and, leaving the neighbourhood of the town, went in search of the cross-bill my friend coveted. It would have been a very simple matter to make acquaintance with one of the hunters of the country, who would have taken me at once to the fir-tree woods, the favourite resort of the cross-bill ; but this was a way of proceeding quite contrary to my custom. It seemed to me much more ingenious to go straight to the (30) I < ia i ty A CANADIAN FAMILY. 31 he lat th d. y o l1 encounter until some good fortune helped me to find the bird whose plumage I had promised my friend. I was m a civilized country, so I only exposed myself to taking a longer route than necessary, and at that time a few miles more or less was a matter of little importance to me. So I started on my way along a road bordered with fine crops turning to gold under the burning sun — a July sun, and, what is more, a Canadian sun. After walking for a quarter of an hour, the high-road seemed to me uninteresting, so I struck out over a hill crowned with woods, situated towards my left. On my way I carefully ex- amined the bushes from which flew hosts of sparrows. The cross-bills scarcely ever leave the forests; but, in spite of ornitho- logists, one might have ventured on to the plain. So many birds with brown, orange, and ash-coloured plumage flew before my eyes that I thought Canada must be full of cross-bills, and for a moment entertained the hope of taking back to my friend a dozen or so of the Canadian species. Three shots fired successively put me in possession of a robin, a swallow, and a cross-bill. As a further stroke of fortune, the sound of my gun brought up three natives, without large beaks, but whose large eyes regarded me in no very friendly manner. " Holloa there ! " cried one of them to me in English ; " are you trying to kill some one ? " The question was made in an impudent, even threatening tone, and I was about to reply with the same amiability when an enormous Newfoundland dog bounded up with glittering eyes, bristling hair, open jaws, lowered tail, and all the look of an animal of his kind when ready to make a spring. " Call off" your dog," I cried to my questioner. '^ I am not going to let him bite me, but I should be sorry to kill the brute." " Ontario will not do you any harm, don't be afraid," said the man, who nevertheless called V)ack his dog on seeing me lift my gun. The dog stalked behind his master, who came up to me. 32 MY RAMBLES JN THE NEW WORLD. t\ t'' My position was rather embarrassing ; rid of the dog. it was not without a certain amount of apprehension that I saw its master and his two companions approach me. I lowered my gun and stood my ground firmly, but, to my surprise, the three men bowed to me very politely. "A scanty dinner," said one of them, unceremoniously handling the game in my hand and examining it. I explained that my game was to be stuffed, and that I was in search of the Loxia Enucleator^ the plumage of which I de- scribed to them. " I do not think that bird lives in our fields," said my new friend ; " but who can say ? Look for it, but do not fire into the bush as you did just now ; you might kill or wound some one, which is always an expensive business." I learnt that my questioners were Irishmen, employed in farming on the land where I now found myself. They very obligingly showed me the path leading to the fir-tree forest, the black foliage of which I could see in the distance ; and I set out again, greeted with a good-day by one or two workpeople, both men and women, who regarded me curiously as I passed. I was quite surprised at the heat of the sun, and the verdure which surrounded me. Two years before I had seen this country covered with several feet of snow, and it had then appeared to me barren and desolate ; here and there thin skeletons of trees, a grey sky, and flights of black crows dotting the whitened ground. I was reminded of Voltaire's words in 1763, when the Treaty of Paris ceded our Canadian possessions to England : " We have just lost a few acres of snow ". These few acres of snow constitute in reality a country twice the size of France, covered with virgin forests, rich in iron, mercury, and lead mines, and fertile in agricultural productions. This country belonged to France for two centuries; it was made illustrious by Denys, Jacques Cartier, Raimbault, Lasalle, and Charlevoix, heroic explorers, and lastly, by the Marquis de Montcalm, who, by the sole resource of his genius, defended it for several months against the English. Montcalm, Marquis of Saint V^ran, was a grand character ; le size (rcury, This I made and lis de led it iicter ; (33 A CANADIAN FAMILY. 33 l> invested in 1756 with the command in chief of the troops of North America, he fought against the Enghsh a score of times with only a handful of men, and at last, forced into an unequal struggle beneath the walls of Quebec, he was killed at the onset. His rival. General Wolfe, perished in the same battle. A monument has been erected on the spot where the two warriors fell, and bears no other inscription than their names. It was in the year 1497 that the Venetian Cabot, then in the service of England, discovered Canada and took possession of it. The Frenchman Denys, sent out by Francis the First, visited the St. Lawrence in 1506. Several years later the Spaniards appeared in this country in their turn. It is said that, not finding on the coast any trace of the gold mines, in search of which they had come, the Casiillians returned, say- ing : Aca nada (here, nothing). The two words, retained by the natives, and repeated later on to the French, were taken by them for the name of the country. Canada is divided into two large parts : Upper and Lower Canada. Upper Canada is separated from the state of New York by the chain of lakes : Ontario, Erie, Huron, Superior, and Lake of the Woods. Lower Canada, bounded on the east by Maine and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, has Quebec for its capital, and its chief towns are : Montreal, Three Rivers, and St. John. Quebec, the former capital of Canada, and now the principal town of Lower Canada, was founded, in 1608, on an immense promontory formed by the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles. In appearance quite a French town, it contains a numerous population, and is divided into high and low town. The first, protected by a citadel, and built on a steep rock which is scaled by steps cut in the cliff, may be regarded as the old town. The old-fashioned buildings and the irregular streets contrast singularly with the straight streets and the elegant, coquettish, modern architecture of the low town. The principal buildings of Quebec are the French and Anglian cathedrals, the houses of parliament, the market-place, and the hospital ; below the town the river is spanned by the D 'Si % 34 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. famous Victoria bridge, built by the engineer Robert Stevenson The St. Lawrence, which at this place is almost three miles wide, rendeis the Quebec port the central depot for the pro- ductions of the country. Hundreds of ships at a time come here to take in supplies of grain, flour, and wood. The country round Quebec is very picturescjue, and dotted here and there with charming mansions. Heat and cold are two cruel enemies to this city, where the mercury freezes in winter, and during the summer the heat is tropical. Strangers whom good fortune leads to this hospitable town willingly visit the two cascades, which are quite worth seeing, even after those of the Niagara. P'irst of all, the Montmorency river, which falls from a height of a hundred and twenty feet ; then that of /a Chaudiire^ two hundred and thirty feet wide. From the height of Fort St. Louis, or from the promontory of the Diamante three hundred feet high, nothing can be more magnificent than the sight of the yellow waters of the majestic St. Lawrence, washing a series of capes or bays whose banks have been transformed into magnificent gardens. The St. Lawrence, which was first explored by Jacques Cartier, has a length of seven hundred miles ; it issues from Lake Ontario, separates Upper Canada from the United States, crosses Lower Canada and falls into the gulf which bears its name. This river, the medium breadth of which is about a mile and a quarter, carries immense quantities of water to the sea, for it is the natural outlet of the Lakes Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, and Ontario. Thus reflecting, I had climbed the hill and found myself on the outskirts of the pine wood, where I hoped to meet with the cross-bill Enudeator. I cast a last glance over the uneven country which I overlooked, and Quebec, crowning a summit of fortified rocks, appeared to me like a second Brest. The forests of North America have nothing in common with those of the tropical regions. No creepers, no birds, no trees with varied foliage; everywhere sombre rows of black, gigantic pine trees. In those fortunate lands where they have the sun shining all the year round, life springs up with an A CANADIAN FAMILY. 35 intensity akin to prodigality : l)irds, (luadrupcds, reptiles, insects, one can hardly take a step without meeting a living creature. There is never absolute silence in the tropical woods; both day and night alike one hears the flutter of wings in the branches, the buzzing of insects in the air, or under the bark of trees, and the rustling of the leaves by reptiles, with the howling of jaguars, wild boars, conguars, the screeching of parrots and chachalacas, or the plaintive songs of night-birds greeting the rising or selling of the sun. In the pine-woods reigns profound stillness, uniform monotony ; a sterner nature works in silence, and one cannot repress a vague feeling of sadness. The tro[)ical wood is bold, exuberant youth, believ- ing in its eternity ; it is the land of illusions : the |)ine forest, on the contrary, represents old age, dreary, austere, disen- chanted, the land of reality. For a few minutes I followed the outskirts of the wood, then coming across a path, I penetrated the dense forest. A quarter of an hour's walk brought me to the bottom of a ravine, where enormous blocks of even, polished stone revealed the bed of a stream. Here and there were clear pools of water swarming with tadpoles, and a few birds were singing overhead. With my eye on the watch I wended my way alongside the stream in the hope of discovering the bird I had come in search of. I walked for a long while up and down hill until I was almost exhausted, for the heat was overpowering. At last 1 came to a kind of hoUow so wild and magnificent, that I determined to rest and do justice to the provisions I had brought with me. I passed almost two hours here, botanizing and chasing insects; this wild, lonely place captivated me. The wind had gradually risen and was waving the tops of the pine trees. Suddenly great black clouds covered the strip of sky overhead, and the wood became dark. A rumbling sound was heard ; a storm was about to break forth. I thought of going back to Quebec ; but it was a two hours' walk and the rain was begin- ning to fall, so that I had no other resource than to shelter myself under the rocks until the tempest had passed over. I found a place between two blocks of sandstone, above w.. w 36 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. which nature had formed a roof of moss, and I had hardly settled myself there when a flash of lightning lit up the forest, and there was a prolonged peal of thunder just overhead. For three hours I was kept captive between th« rocks, blinded by the lightning and deafened by the thunder, in a dense gloom. At first I looked upon this misadventure in a very philosophical light, and compared this storm to those of the tropics. Hut, however grand the spectacle of which I was an observer might be, I began to grow impatient and almost terrified when, after waiting so long, I saw the tempest re- double its fury, instead of abating. A high wind was rocking the tops of the trees with a mournful sound, and the bed of the torrent I had followed was filled with muddy water, which kept rising higher and higher, dashing over the rocks and mingling its noise with that of the thunder and wind. I left my retreat, determined to brave the rain, and get back to Quebec as quickly as possible. I was obliged to look for a place where I might wade through the torrent, for, not having foreseen a storm, I had had the imprudence to cross the ravine which separated me from the former capital of Canada. I walked along the banks for half-an-hour ; but far from becoming smaller, as I had hoped, the banks grew continually wider apart. Soaked to the skin, I bitterly regretted leaving my shelter, towards which I mechanically returned. I began to wish my friend Sumichrast at Jericho, and the Loxia EnucUator ^\.\\\ further, which, however, did not dry a thread of my clothes. The rain continued ; and, after another halt, I determined to climb the bank, to look for a path and follow it, at the risk of its being the right one. But climbing a perpendicular bank made slippery by the rain, and covered with pine cones, was an undertaking as difficult as a dozen of Hercules' feats put together. I climbed, I slipped back, I rolled over, I fell and covered myself with mud, before I attained the object of my efforts. Then, obliged to sit down on the ground to take breath, I innocently sheltered myself under a pine tree, as though twenty drops of water more or less could in any way change the state of my affairs. I again thought of A CANADIAN FAMILY. 37 my friend Sumichrast, (juictly sittinj< in his armchair, smoking or studying at his ease, whilst I was here, wet to the skin and half blinded, looking for a bird which perhaps did not exist. I set out once more, and after an hour's wandering, came upon a |)ath which led me to a road where I saw the ruts of wheels, so that I was at last getting back to civilized life. I wore a hat which I had bought at New York, and which, on the shopkeeper's word, I believed was of English felt. But this very curious production of American industry turned out to l)e simply made of grey cardboard. The rim of my hat, originally turned up, had gradually fallen down under the prolonged action of the rain until sufficiently softened, when it became detached and fell round my neck in guise of a collarette. I was thus left with a kind of softened grey cap, and in my tumbles, not content with soiling my clothes with the yellow mud, I had managed to daub my face all over with it. In this condi- tion, and armed with a gun, I must have looked less elegant than wild, and I foresaw that my entry into Quebec would not be exactly triumphal. On reaching the road, I thought myself saved ; but I quickly fell into another perplexity. Must I turn to the right or the left ? That was the question. To turn to the right or to the left is a problem easy enough to solve when one knows where one comes from ; but when one comes unexpectedly upon an unknown road, I defy the most skilful to make it out. After demure reflection, calculating that I had crossed the ravine here, followed the bank there, ascended it to the right and descended it on the left, and that since my departure I had kept my back towards the good town of Quebec, I resolutely took the road in a direction which seemed to me to be the right one. The rain had ceased ; but the sky was overclouded, and the sun which might have served me as guide was nowhere visible. I had walked for a long while, and was surprised at not meeting any one. It was getting late, and I began to think uneasily that I might be overtaken by night in the midst of this forest. Suddenly I heard behind me the noise of wheels, and it fell upon my ears as the most harmonious sound I had ever heard. 38 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I sto(jd on one side the road in order to hail the driver of the vehicle which was coming along. My presence, perhaps on account of the pitiful appearance I i)reser.ted, did not seem to alarm the stranger, who was enveloped in a white mackintosh. He stopped his horse, and J. saw the fresh face of a young woman, with blue eyes and fair, curling hair, leaning towards me. " Am I on the right ro.id to Quebec ? " I asked of the young woman, who was looking at me with surprise. "Yes," she replied; "only you are going in the wrong direction. Quebec is over there," added she, pointing with her whip in a direction to which I was conscientiously turning my back ; a fact which does not say much for our instinct — or intelligence, if you like it better. But our life is passed in turning our backs on thinjs we wish to reach ; and, what is sadder still, we err on our path through the moral, as much as through the physical, world. I asked the young woman several (juestions, but, instead of answering, she said, looking at me with her beautiful, large blue eye.s — "Are you a Frenchman, rhtn, sir?" " Yes," replied I piteously ; for I ill represented our country for the time being. " A Frenchman from Old France ? " added my questioner. "A Frenchman from Old France," 1 replied smilingly. " If I were not afraid of making my father uneasy, I vvould willingly offer to drive you back to town, sir ; for you look tired." I thanked my charitable friend, and again asked her to show me the shortest way back to Quebec. " You have only to walk straight before you," said she ; "but if you are not pressed for time, you might come with me to the farm, and I can ^Mve you ijmeone to show you the way." " I shall be very i)leased to accept your offer," I eagerly replied. And shouldering my gun, I prepared to follow the cart. " Cict up here," said the young woman, making a place for A CANADIAN FAMILY. 39 me ; " we have three miles to go, and you could not keep up V ith my horse." I looked wonderingly at the handsome young woman who thus gave me such a proof of confidence. What a difference between the countries which we consider wild and civilized lands ! In Old France, as my companion called it, if I had been met in a wood, with clothes covered with mud, a battered hat, ^nd a gun slung over my shoulder, by an individual belong- ing to the fairer half of humanity, it is probable that that individual, far from offering n\c a place by her side in her cart, would have urged on her horse, and told her friends in the evening that, being frightened on her journey by a ferocious- looking man, she had only escaped great danger by her self- possession, whilst all the time she would be dying of fright. I sat down near my companion with all the precaution possible, for I did not want to soil her cloak with my muddy clothes. She whipped on the horse, and we set off at a trot. " Am I rude, sir, in asking you by what chance you found yourself so far from Quebec in such dreadful weather?" " It was the fault of that rascal of a Loxia Enucleator^^ I exclaimed. ' "A friend of yours, undoubtedly?" " No ; a i>ird, classed by Linnreus, badly described by Buffon, and which lives in Lapland and in this country." And as my companion's eyes regarded me with a questioning look, I related my departure from Quel)ec, and then the mis- adventures of the day, which gained for me the pleasure of seeing some beautiful white teeth, and hearing such a laugh as only twenty years old can give. "Please excuse my gaiety over your misfortuue, sir; from the bottom of my heart I wish our sky had treated you more kindly." " Laugh, madam, as much as you like ; I know you are charitable, and that is enough for me." " If you will be kind enough, you will call me miss — Miss Louise Martin." We had just reached the foot of a hill, and the hor.';. was 40 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. taking its own pace, when suddenly my companion half rose from her seat, and appeared to examine carefully the top of the hill we were near. She frowned slightly, and half closed her eyes, like one in deep thought. I asked her a question, but she did not seem to hear me ; her mind was evide itly else- where. I respected her silence ; and, looking to the top of the hill, thought I saw a human form sitting between two trees on the roadside. I seized my gun mechanically. The young girl turned sharply round to me. " There is some one up there," said I. " Yes," replied she, and gave two little smacks with her Wl. fj. Aroused by the noise, the horse pricked up his ears and mended his pace. Soon I was able to distinguish a tall young man, dressed in a hunting suit, with high gaiters. He got up and came slowly along the road as though to bar our way. On our approach he took off his fur cap, which, in spite of the season, he wore over his eyes, and I ^aw a handsome fellow, with fair hair, an open brow, and regular features. ' " Lou'se," said he, when we were quite near him, " I should like to speak with you." My companion's face grew serious, and the horse made a few steps before she replied. She heaved a deep sigh, drew the reins in, and the horse having stopped, she got lightly down. '• Good day, Louise," said the hunter, holding out his large hand. " Good day, Peter," replied the young girl. " How is your father ? " 'Better, thank you." "Louise, I should like to speak with you." "Will you take the reins, sir," said the young girl to me after a moment's hesitation, " and be so kind as to drive to the top of the hill ? " ... Then, without awaiting my reply, she took the hunter's arm and walked on with him. Rather surprised at this scene, I picked up the reins and slowly followed the two young people. her litStfiu A CANADIAN FAMILY. 41 CHAPTER II. Miss Louise — Arrival at the Secret Valley — Grandfather Martin — A patriarchal evening — What is Mr. Peter ? — A mistake — An en/ant terrible — Another search for the Loxia. The rain had quite ceased ; the sky gradually resumed its clear deep azure ; drops of water were trembling on the fir-cones ; and when the sunlight penetrated through a glade in the wood, one would have said that the trees it fell upon were studded with diamonds. The wayside banks, of a beautiful orange colour, reminded me of the ochre slopes in certain parts of Normandy. Was it a freak of my imagination ? I do not know ; but the trees, the bushes, the paths, the herbs growing by the roadside, carried my thoughts back to France ; my misadventures of the morning were forgotten, and I could hardly believe that the broad ocean se|)arated me from my native land. From time to time, I looked towards the two young people ; they were speaking in an undertone. The hunter was making energetic gesticulations, and seemed to be either justifying him- self, or trying to persuade his companion, who, with her head bent down, only answered him at long intervals. The young girl had taken off her cloak, and I was better able to judge of her appearance. She was tall, robust, but nevertheless graceful. She wore a grey dress trimmed with blue, which, without being of any particular fashion, suited her well. Her boots were of chamois leather, embroidered with beads, and reminded me of the mocassins which the Indians in this part of the country wear. Her luxuriant golden hair was tied back with a dark blue ribbon, something like the large bows with which the Alsacians adorn themselves. Her walk was firm and self- reliant ; Miss Louise had an aristocratic look about her. In short, the two young people formed a charming couple which it was a pleasure to look at. My curiosity had been aroused by this unforeseen meeting, but I noticed that they treated each other with a familiarity which spoke of a long 42 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. acquaintanceship ; I thought I saw before me two lovers trying to make up a love -quarrel. At the top of the hill Miss Louise stopped and held out her hand to her companion, saying, "Good-bye, Peter." "No," replied the latter, eagerly taking her hand; "not good-bye." "Very well, then ; but it depends entirely upon you." The young man shook his head, and helped his companion to take her place again in the covered cart ; then going back a step to let us pass, he took off his cap and bowed politely to me. A minute later the horse was trotting down a long slope. Before me lay a pretty valley, at the bottom of which stood some extensive buildings. Miss Louise, serious and absorbed, maintained a strict silence, and I spoke not a word, for fear of disturbing her thoughts. She turned her head quickly, nodded to the hunter who was still standing on the top of the hill, then, the road being sheltered by trees, she heaved a deep sigh, slashed her whip, and said to me, pointing to the buildings — " The Secret Valley— my father's house. '^ The Secret Valley ! This name had been admirably chosen. The valley into which we were descending was enclosed on all sides by high hills, and at present it was covered with golden harvests. We passed by an old woman occupied with chop- ping wood and making faggots ; she wished us good evening in French, and her accent, her black striped petticoat and her cap, again reminded me of Normandy. I told my companion my impression. "You are in New France," replied she; "and my family, who have held this property for more than two hundred years, as well as our servants, came originally from Rouen." " Have you ever been to France ? " " No. I was born in the house you see down there, and I have never been further away than Quebec." " Were you brought up in Quebec ? " " I have been brought up in the Secret Valley, and I have never slept under any other roof than that to which I am taking you. But why do you ask me these questions ? " A CANADIAN FAMILY. 43 ve Lm " Because you speak French so remarkably well.'' " Thank you for the compliment," said the young girl smiling ; " but I beg you to remember that for me, as well as tor half the inhabitants of Canada, the French language is our mother-tongur., and although we know English we only speak it when obliged to do so." " Ne'-'^rtheless," I said, " all your countrymen do not express themselves in the elegant way which I admire in you." " I know how to read and write, sir," replied my fair com- panion ; " the secret lies there, perhaps. You are not very polite," added she. " You have seen Quebec, and yet you seem to think we are but half civilized here." I hastened to do justice to Quebec, whose English and French colleges I had admired, and whose reputation for learn- ing in incontestable. Nevertheless, the Secret Valley was not in the least Quebec, so that I was somewhat justified in .showing my surprise on hearing a beautiful young wom.an, with educated speech and ladylike manners, declare herself that she was only a farmer's daughter. "Is a farmer's position, then, in France considered as an inferior station, or as a degrading occupation ? " asked the young girl, looking at me. " No," replied I at once. " The culture of the land is every- where honourable and honoured ; but, unfortunately, gentle- men-farmers, as they are called here and in England, are very rarely to be found with us. Our farmers are honest people ; but they are often uncultivated, even boorish, and, beyond their business, more ignorant than I dare confess." We passed through a wide gateway. Two enormous mastiffs chained to their kennels began to struggle furiously. The cart crossed a courtyard and stopped before the steps of an old house, with windows irregularly placed here and there, such as our forefathers, regardless of symmetry, were fond of building. An old man, with a three-cornered hat, knee-breeches, and knitted blue stockings, came towards me, leaning on a walking- stick. One might have said he was an ancestor stepping down out of an old picture ; he only wanted the curled wig, for he 44 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. wore the old-fashioned shirt-front and friUing. He took off his hat to me : his head was still covered with curls, but as white as snow ; I thought I had never seen such a handsome, vener- able-looking old man. " Welcome to my roof, sir," said he, holding out his hand to me. " You must forgive my forgetting if you have ever been to the Secret Valley before, ^or I do not remember your features or your name." I explained in a few 'vords that, being drenched to the skin, and having lost my way, I had met with Miss Louise, who had kindly offered me a seat in her conveyance, and promised to let r.ome one show me the way to Quebec. " Quite right, Louise." cried 'he old gentleman. " But our guest must not go away without resting and having some refreshment. See to that, my child." " Grandfather," said the young girl, " the gentleman is a Frenchman, from Old France." " Heavens he praised ! Is it true ? " " It is true," I answered. " Then, sir, you are doubly welcome. You are among friends, countrymen, and brothers." How was it that this simple, cordial welcome moved me almost to tears ? It was because I was a thousand leagues away from that dear country, the name of which was enough to call forth so much kindness. How precious anci honourable my title of Frenchman was to me when the old man warmly grasped my hand and led me into his house ! I had long known of the sympathy the Canadians have for the land of their forefathers, but never had I seen that sympathy exhibited in so touching a manner. , Two hours later I had become the guei.t of the Secret Valley, and was sitting at table between Mrs. Martin and the grand- father, whilst a servant was despatched to Quebec to let my friends know that I was still in the land of the living. Mr. Martin, the father of Louise, was forty-eight years old, his wife forty, Miss Louise eighteen, her sister Victorine six- teen, and her brothers Victor and Emile fourteen and twelve. fc=i-==.-^;^ A CANADIAN FAMILY. iS As to the grandfather and grandmother Martin, they repre- sented between them almost a century and a half. The farm- servants, about ten in number, sat round the lower end of the table ; some of the grey-headed ones treated the masters and children of the house quite familiarly. The grandfather hav- ing asked a blessing, every one sat down and partook of a large ham and cabbage, followed by a roast joint of mutton. "Father," said Louise rather suddenly, "on my way back from Quebec, as I was bringing our guest here, I met Peter." "Did you speak to him, Louise?" "Yes, I spoke to him," replied the young girl. And I noticed she changed colour. Silence ensued, and nothing was heard but the noise of knives and forks. "Very well," said the farmer all at once; "we will talk about that by-and-by." Then turning to me, Mr. Martin entertained me with an account of his crops, the work he had undertaken, and his plans for improving his property. I listened absently. Miss Louise's declaration seemed to have cast a gloom over all present. Who was this Mr. Peter, whose name was enough to disturb this good family ? A head- strong youth, a prodigal son, perhaps. But no ; I had noticed Miss Louise did not treat him familiarly enough for that. I was lost in vain conjectures. The grandfather returned thanks, and all rose from the table. We had supped in an oblong room, furnished with one of those immense chimney-pieces which one still meets with occasionally in some parts of Normandy. The kitchen utensils made a brilliant display on the walls, and great beams ran across the ceiling. The farmer led me out of doors, and Miss Louise, after having poured out some coffee, and placed the cups on a small table, offered me a long slate pipe— a regular calumet^ which I was obliged to decline. The clock had just struck eight ; the night was starry and light. The moon, which was still invisible, was rising towards the norfh, and casting her jilvery light over the sides of the ••c ■^ 46 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. hills in front of us. Through the still air came the sound of lowing and hleating from the out-buildings, mingled with the cackling of a few hens late in going to roost. I questioned my host, and he answered me very obligingly ; he was a serious, well-instructed, and affable man. I learnt that he and his wife had been their children's only instructors ; that six generations of Martins lay in the little cemetery of the Secret Valley, after having lived here as happy as human creatures could be, working, fearing God, and making simplicity the root of their happiness. Mr. Martin dreamt of no different future for his four children, and he strongly hoped that they would never know any other part of the universe save the place where they were boi.: Years have passed, and have sprinkled my head with grey hairs, but they have detracted nothing from the pleasing memory of the Secret Valley. I have only to shut my eyes to hear grandfather Martin ask a blessing in the large room in which I was first received, to see the serious features of his son, the goodness beaming on the face of Mrs. Martin, the beautiful eyes of Miss Louise, and the gay faces of her younger sister and brothers. I see again the large sitting-room where my host led me after we had finished our coffee, Mrs. Martin and her daughters sewing by the light of two large lamps, the grand- father reading, and his grandsons bending studiously over their lessons for the next day. Oh ! happy, simple family, what never-to-be-forgotten memories did I bring away after a week's sojourn in your midst ! If happiness is not an idle dream, if it exists anywhere on our globe, surely it is beyond the sea, between the hills of the Secret Valley. "Nine o'clock!" said the grandfather suddenly, looking at the clock ; then turning to me, he added — " Do you like music, sir ? " " Very much indeed," I answered. "You really mean it?" "I do indeed." "You hear, Louise?" resumed the old man. "This gentle- man will make excuses for your performance." Miss Louise sat down at the piano and played remarkably ol cl ci al A CANADIAN FAMILY. 47 well ; she was soon joined by her sister, and by Emile and Victor, one |)rovided with a violin, the other with a flute, and all exe cuted their parts with great exactness. After this improvised concert, Mr. Martin led me to the bedroom prepared for me, and I soon fell asleep, thinking how much chance has to do with our lives. My first thought on awaking was of the Loxia Enucleator, for the birds were singing under my windows, which looked out on to a beautiful garden. Mr. Martin, his father, and Miss Louise were walking along an avenue ; the grandfather was holding the young girl's hand. It was evidently a question on the subject of Mr. Peter. As soon as I was dressed, I went down to wish my hosts good morning ; when I reached the garden, the father was say- ing to his daughter — " You well know, my child, that your happiness is my only care." " How can I doubt that, father?" replied Miss Louise. " Ah, well, Louise, you must try to forget, and we will help you." Miss Louise gently shook her head, as much as to say, " It is impossible." Then, bowing to me, she went away. Directly they saw me, Mr. Martin and his son came up and warmly shook hands. " Poor Louise ! " said the grandfather, who was looking after his grandchild ; " she is crying." "Father," said Mr. Martin, "do you, then, side with the women against me ? " " Yes, when I see Louise crying." " We are here to comfort her now ; later on, when we shall be no longer alive, whom will she lean upon ?" I was about to walk on. " Stay, sir," said the grandfather to me ; " there is no secret. We are very much troubled just now about our grand-daughter. She loves her second cousin, and there is an obstacle between ^hem." " Is Mr. Peter a bad character, then ? " I risked asking. ; ■ 48 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. '* No, no," replied Mr. Martin eagerly ; ** Peter is the best lad in the world, and I should be glad to call him my son. Louise would have been his wife a year ago, if . . . But pardon, sir, our family affairs can have no interest for you." Not knowing precisely whether my host's reticence was in reality only a polite way of changing the conversation, I dared not reply that, on the contrary, I was much interested in Miss Louise and her lover, and that I wanted very much to know the obstacle that prevented their union. Mr. Martin led me towards the farm, and I was obliged to submit to what I call the landlord's visit, that is to say, going round all the out-buildings, cellars, and granaries. These forced visits are often wearying ; this time they were very useful to me, for I learnt more than one particularity of the climate and productions of Canada. It was twelve o'clock when a bell called us to luncheon. I saw that Miss Louise busied herself with her sister and mother in household affairs, whilst the grandfather was tutor to the boys. During the meal the Loxia Enuckator was the topic of conversation. I had become reconciled to it again, as it had gained me an invitation to spend a few days at the farm. Neither of my hosts remembered meeting with a bird of crim- son plumage in their walks or hunting excursions ; but the hills surrounding the Secret Valley were covered with pine trees ; thus I could explore them at leisure, sure of not getting lost again, as it would have been difficult to lo.se .sight of .the farm. The history of their native land was familiar to my hosts, and at the same time they were well acquainted with that of their mother country. When they discovered that the names rnd the works of missionaries who had been the first to explore North America, and Canada in particular, were not unknown to me, they redoubled their attentions. They complained of being ill-known in France, and of having no return of affecton. "You are mistaken," I repeated, continually. "A Canadian is no stranger in France." The grandfather Martin smiled and shook his head. He had seen, said he, many Frenchmen come to Canada, and not ttv^u:. idian A CANADIAN FAMILY. 49 one of them knew even the names of Carticr or Montcalm. I defended my countrymen as well as I could, whilst inwardly allowing that my host was right, and that we in France are too indifferent to our past glories. The attachment manifested to France by this good family made me commit a singular error. " It would be a happy day," cried I, suddenly, " which should renew the bonds of the past, and make you Frenchmen." " Ciod preserve us from such misfortune ! " exclaimed grand- father and son together. " We are Canadians first of all, and secondly, we are the subjects of the Queen of England ; and we have no more wish to become Frenchmen than Americans, although our neighbours think the contrary." I was somewhat confused. " I thought I understood," I resumed, in an embarrassed tone, "that you regretted the loss of your former nationality." " We are sons of Frenchmen, sir, and we respect the past," said the grandfather to me ; " but on no account do we wish to become the subjects of your kings, or the citizens of your republic, for we possess what you are wanting in, constancy. Your cavilling administration of routine would soon transform the liberty we enjoy into servitude. We love France and French people ; nevertheless, as long as we are allowed to remain purely and simply Canadians, we shall remain English by right, by politics, by love of justice, and by true liberty." I bit my lips. I have since found among all Canadians the same sentiments as those expressed by the grandfather Martin. If the Canadians love France, our political inconstancy astonishes them, and they say that we understand nothing whatever of liberty. The afternoon was spent in visiting my host's land. He was very proud of his crops of lucern-grass and wheat. There was the same patriarchal gathering in the evening. At my request Miss Loui.se took her seat at the piano. She had hardly struck a few notes when one of her brothers cried — " Oh ! that is Peter's song." At this involuntary exclamation, the musician covered her £ 5^^ MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. face with her hands, and the young culprit sprang to her side, throwing his arms around her neck. " Oh, Louise ! " cried he, " did I make you cry ? " Miss Louise got up and kissed the boy, whilst Miss Victorine at once took her place ; and, drying her eyes, the elder sister quietly sat down near her mother. This scene hi.d touched every one, me particularly; little Victorine had shown her good sense by taking possession of the piano, for all were thus able to follow their own thoughts. For my part, I should have much liked to know what it was that prevented Louise's marriage with th-i handsome Peter, and to have been able to restore peace in the Secret Valley. Towards tea o'clock I took leave of this interesting family, for I was going to begin my search again for the famous Loxia among the pine-woods early the next morning. My host wanted me to take a servant, but I declined this kind offer ; and the grandfather then proposed that his grandsons sh.ould be my guides, and their lessons for that day be dispensed with. At these words the two boys looked up eagerly ; their eyes fastened on my lips as though trying to guess what the reply would be. T accepted ; they jumped up with delight, and came and squeezed my hands. , My little companions undertook to awake me, and at break of day they knocked at my door. I found Miss Louise in the large sitting-room, filling our game-bags with provisions, for vve were going to have our luncheon in the woods. " You have been very kind to me,'' said I to the young girl, just as we were starting ; " can I be of any use to you ? " " No, sir," replied she ; " but I am very much obliged to you all the same." She si.ook hands with rne, and I followed her young brothers, who were imi)atient to be off. \ ^ A CANADIAN FAMILY. 51 CHAPTER III. or 'irl ou A panorama — An unexpected meeting — Lun :heon in the woods — Pleading in Miss Louise's favour — Return to the farm — Pleading in Peter's favour — " All's well that ends well " — The Loxia. The morning foretold splendid weather ; a white mist hid the tops of the hills, but the sun soon dispersed this light veil. My two guides led me across a corn field ; then, following them, I climbed a steep path leading into the woods. By the deliberate way in wh ch my >oung friends walked, and handled their guns, I soon recognized experienced hunts- men. In fact, they told me that for a long while hunting had been their favourite pastime ; and their master in this art, dear to all Canadians, had been their second cousin Peter, whose skill was quite proverbial in the country. On our way my companions asked me many questions about Paris, London and New York, three cities which they dreamt of visiting. They were lively, gay, and talkative, and yet more thoughtful than boys of the same age with us. We reached a narrow dale, lost between two hills, and my guides opened the hunt by bringing down a black squirrel. We agreed on a signal-call, and each took a different direc- tion. I was to climb the slope in front of me, whilst the two brothers took the road to the right and to the left, walking in a direction so as to meet me on the top of the hill. We were sur- rounded by pine trees of different species, among which I recognized the black pine, the wood of which is very valuable in ship-building ; the Canadian pine, or white spinet ; then the odoriferous pine, which furnishes commerce with a thick, transparent turpentine of a very agreeable odour. Three successive reports of fire-arms repeated by the echo told me that my companions were having good sport. As for myself, in spite of the steep slope I was ascending, I walked on, looking about everywhere, trying to get a glimpse of the red plumage of the Loxia among the dark or silvery foliage of the \ 52 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. pine trees. I killed a fine woodpecker, then a cross-bill, and 1 just missed bringing down a weasel of no ordinary size. Arrived at the top of the hill, I found myself on a platform strewn with blocks of sandstone, and elevated enough to allow of my overlooking the ravine we had crossed, the secret Valley, and its buildings. The sun was flooding the lovely valley with light, and the emerald-green colour of the fruit-trees stood out in pleasing contrast with the dark foliage of the pines. I had reached the place of rendezvous, but as yet heard no sound of the approach of my companions. I sat down under an oak tree, which seemed to have sprung up there quiiC by chance ; its foliage looked singular among the uniform vegetation with which it was surrounded. After waiting half-an-hour, I entered the wood again in another direction. From this side the slope which I had climbed was almost perpendicular. I leant over this precipice, and was startled at seeing Miss Louise's lover, sitting on a rock about ten feet below me, with his gun lying at his feet. The young man wore the hunting-suit in which I had seen him the first time we met ; he was looking towards the Secret Valley, which was plainly visible from the place he occupied. He seemed so wrapt up in his thoughts that he did not appear to hear the sound of my footsteps. I could not see his face, but from his movements I guessed that he was looking after some one. He suddenly turned his head to the left, then listening for a moment, he sprang to his feet and took up his gun. I thought of my young companions, one of whom was to come o ; from that side, and I was going to warn the hunter, when Victor appeared. " Peter ! Peter ! " cried the boy, in a gleeful voice. And at the risk of breaking his neck. Master Victor rushed down the hill and fell into his cousin's arms. At the same moment Emile appeared further down ; at his brother's call, the lad looked up, and walking quickly, soon joined the hunter. " Peter ! Peter ! " cried the two boys, enthusiastically ; and they tried who could make the most of their cousin, who warmly returned their caresses. A CANADIAN FAMILY. 53 ;hed " How are they all at the Secret Valley ? " asked Mr. Peter at length. " Very well," replied Victor ; " father has had low fever, but he is better now." " And Victorine ? " " Rather more of a tease than when you saw her last year." " And . . . Louise?" *' Just the same, Peter ; only she does not laugh much, and she looks very sad sometimes." " And she has been like that ever since you went away," added Emile. Mr. Peter passed his hand through his hair several times, and was silent for a moment. "How is it you are here?" resumed he; "I know it is not your holiday." '' We are with a gentleman, a Frenchman, who lost himself in the woods. Louise met him and brought him to our house," said Victor. " The day that she met you,'' added Emile. "By-the-by," resumed the elder brother, "where is our friend ? He ought to be here." "Was it you, then, that fired?" asked Mr. Peter. "Yes. We have each killed a rabbit, and a bird for the gentleman besides. We are looking for a bird with crimson feathers." " Ah ! well, then, lads, you must be quick and find your guest." " Leave you so soon for that ? Oh no ! let ^mile go and look for the gentleman." "Go yourself," replied Emile, unceremoniously; "you are the eldest. Is it true, Peter," added the boy, seizing his cousin's hand, " that you are never coming again to the Secret Valley, and that you do not care for us any more ? " Instead of replying, the hunter took both boys in his arms and pressed them to his heart. " Ah ! my dear lads ! How could you think so ! " cried he at last. 54 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I Victor, looking up at this moment, saw me, and told his com- panions. Mr. Peter bowed, and following his cousin, who set out at once to meet me, was soon at my side. He was indeed a handsome, tall young man, with fair hair and beard, and finely modelled features. He talked well, although with a certain honest bluntness. An hour later we were taking our luncheon side by side, and I had described the Loxi'a to him at least three times. After our luncheon he offered me a cigar, and took me to the rock where I had seen him sitting in a deep reverie ; he was evidently intent on contem- plating the Secret Valley. Emile and Victor were too restless to sit still long, so they went on with their sport, and left their cousin and myself to finish our cigars and have a little chat together. "Really, sir," said I to my companion, "if I thought you would not be annoyed, I should ask you what obstacle it is that keeps you from the Marlins and separates you from Miss Louise." " Separates me from Louise ! " cried the huntsman. I thought he was about to continue ; but he covered his face with his hands, and was silent. " I beg pardon for my inconsiderateness," I resumed, after a few moments; "but I hope you will believe it was not mere curiosity which prompted me to speak." "God forbid, sir," replied he at last, "that I should be offended with your question. I love Louise, and she loves me, as you know. I have been brought up in Quebec, and have studied there in the best colleges. I have an independent fortune, and I should like to be one of those who rule, rather than of those who are ruled ; in a word, I want to live in town, and take part in political affairs. My uncle and great-uncle are happy at the Secret Valley, and they will not admit that one may be happy elsewhere." "Does Mr. Martin wish his son-in-law to be a farmer? " "Just so; but I have other dreams in my head, which he cannot understand." " Are you ambitious ? " "Why should I conceal it from myself? Yes, I am am- bitious, especially for Louise's sake." A CANADIAN FAMILY. 55 he " Does 3he approve of your plans ? " " No; she sides with my uncle against me." Finally, beneath all the reserve which modesty imposed on my companion, I ended by discovering that he had literary tastes ; that he dreimt of a brilliant life in society for himself and his wife. It was an ambition which I found it difficult to blame. Nevertheless, was not Mr. Martin right when he re- quired his nephew to remain in the Secret Valley, and not abandon the peaceful home where so many Martins had lived happily ? Mr. Peter was cherishing many vain illusions. I did not hesitate to try anu show him the other side of political and literary life, to which many think themselves called, but so few are in reality chosen. " If I did not succeed," replied the young man, " I should come back to the Secret Valley." " Yes, disgusted, and embittered ; having contracted habits which would make retirement wearisome," cried I. "Besides, you will always fancy yourself on the eve of success, and your return will continually be put off from day to day. But you might succeed, and remember then the words of Madame de Stael : ' Glory and happiness are not synonymous ; the first is often nothing but the shroud of the second.' " The sympathy I felt for Miss Louise made me eloquent, and I talked for a long while with Mr. Peter, to whom I must do the justice to say that he listened to me attentively, and dis- cussed each of my arguments without impatience. The young man was convinced that, if Louise chose, she could quickly dispel her father's and grandfather's objections ; but she was determined never to leave the Secret Valley. "We will live here together," she had said firmly, to her lover, " or we will die apart." And this dissension had lasted for a year. Ah ! what a wise young woman was Miss Louise ! She possessed all the grace and all the accomplishments which would have made her shine in the society where her betrothed fondly dreamed of taking her ; nevertheless she was resolute in her wish to live in the obscure corner where she had been 56 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. born. How dififerently people think in France, w'.iere the farmer's daughter has only one desire, to leave as quickly as possible the fields which have given her health and riches, to pine away in a lawyer's study, or a judge's cabinet, as though . . . Alas ! what is the use of my moralizing ? I spent the day hunting with Mr. Peter, for whom I formed a sincere friendship ; such excellent qualities did I recognize in him As night came on, he walked back with me and my young companions as far as the entrance to the valley. The sun was going down, a yellow mist enveloped the build- ings of the Secret Valley, and the neighing of horses, the lowing of cows, the bleating of sheep, and all those sounds so harmonious when heard in the distance at sunset, reached us where we stood. "There is happiness," said I, pointing towards the farm and turning round to my guide ; " try and convince yourself of that." The young man made no answer. "There beats a brave heart, which suffers through you," I resumed ; " think of that." Mr. Peter sighed ; then he walked off rapidly, without shak- ing hands with me, or kissing his cousins ; who, when they had recovered from the surprise which this abrupt departure caused them, cried out both together — " Come and see us, Peter ! " A voice came from the depths of the wood, but none of us could make out what it said. It was night when we returned to the farm. We had captured four rabbits, three squirrels, and a dozen birds ; but, alas ! the famous Loxia Enucleator v/as not among them. The two following days I again hunted in the woods of the Secret Valley. It was not only the Loxia I was looking for, but Peter Martin, with whom I should like to have had another talk. I had not mentioned my meeting to any of the inhabi- tants of the farm, not wishing to appear to interfere with affairs which in reality did not concern me. However, the evening before my departure, as I found myself alone with Miss Louise, A CANADIAN FAMILY. SI i who was arranging a bouquet of flowers, I ventured to say rather abruptly — ■ *' I have seen Mr. Peter ; did you know ? " "Yes,' replied she ; " I heard my brothers tell about your meeting with our cousin." " Is it true, then, that you refuse to live in town ?" " I firmly believe, sir, that our happiness will be more certain here, in this dear old place. Peter is fond of books, and we have a library ; what can prevent him from reading, or even writing ? If he is capable of writing a book, will his work be any the worse for being composed in the Secret Valley ? " " But if he does not like farming?" " He does like it, sir, as one likes things one has been ac- customed to from childhood. Besides, what is he wanted to do ? To become master here; and that is no very poor position. For myself, I am a farmer's daughter, and I do not care to be anything different. Good Heavens ! what should I do in the large drawing-rooms at Quebec ? I should not dare to speak or move. I am giving you my own particular reasons, as well as those of my father and grandfather, and you will understand that I do well in not yielding to Peter's wishes." " You want him to make a sacrifice for you, and not you for him," I resumed. The young girl looked at me with her beautiful eyes, which gradu.^ily filled with tears. " I assure you, sir," said she to me in a trembling voice, " in all this I think more of Peter's happiness than of my own." I was about to reply, to assure my charming hostess that I did not in the least doubt either her self-devotion or her affec- tion ; but the grandfather coming in cut short our conversation. Miss Louise went away, and I had no opportunity of again speaking to her in private. In the evening I looked for the last time upon this good family, siui:ig around two lamps, the antiquity of which proved that they had lighted several generations of Martins. As usual. Miss Louise sat down at the piano, and I went up to her to justify myself and explain my words of the morning. At their 58 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. grandfathers request Emile and Victor took up, the one his flute, the other his violin, when the dogs l)egan to bark outside. The noise did not last long, and I listened for an hour to Canadian airs played by the young artists at my request. After this Miss Louise poured out tea. " Are you angry with me ?" I asked her in a low tonr, when she came i'd to gi e me a cup. '' Mo," Slid slu; , ' i only ihink that you judge me ill." 1 was protesting igainst this insinuation, when suddenly the sitting-room ^; 'or oyc -eA, and what was my surprise to see my hunting companion, Ivir. Peter Martin, on the threshold ! The young man held his seal-skin cap in his hand ; he came towards Mr. Martin, who had suddenly risen from his seat. " Uncle," said he, in a voice trembling with emotion, " is there still room at the farm for me?" " You are under the roof of your father's friend, in the house of relations ; it is your home, Peter," replied Mr. Martin. " But have you come simply to ask hospitality ?" " No ; I am come to reclaim my place by your fireside, and my title of son." Mr. Martin could not answer; he took his nephew in his arms, and laid his head for a moment on the young man's shoulder. The grandfather wept, and so did Mrs. Martin. I felt very much inclined to follow their example. As for Miss Louise, she was sobbing violently. "Peter," said Mr. Martin at last, "we shall have ten work- men to-morrow in the fields, and there are some new ones among them whom I recommend you to keep an eye on. Louise, my child, offer Peter some tea." "Let her kiss him," cried the grandfather. And Miss Louise gcive Peter such a prolonged kiss that I do not know when it would have ended, had not Victor and Emile put up their faces for their turn. Oh, that happy evening, and what radiant faces I looked upon that night ! I was discreetly taking part in the family's joy, when Mr. Peter came up to me. "You were eloquent, sir," said he, holding out his hand to i ^ IS liss •se it es :es Ir. to o h C w h W E Q w :::3 ii;! A CANADIAN FAMILY. 59 me, "and you have made me happy a few months sooner than I should have been ; for it would any way have ended in this," added he, turning to Louise, who blushed up to her eyes, as Victorine roguishly remarked. I warmly pressed the hand held out to me ; and hardly had I released my hold, when Mr. Peter dived into his coat-pocket and brought out a charming little bird, a real Loxt'a Emuleator^ which he very politely offered me. '' It is a rare bird," .said he to nic, "for I have been looking for it ever since I left you. It was the cause of my delay. You had convinced me, and I should have followed you at once, had I not determined to offer you this present." I hardly know whether I acted loyally ; but I will confess my deed as an act of penitence. I never gave my friend Sumi- chrast the beautiful little bird I had come so far to look for. I have kept it in my own collection, in remembrance of Mr. Peter and Miss Louise. About two years ago, on returning to my house, I was told that a young man had been waiting to see me for about an hour ; he had not given his name. When I entered my study, the stranger, who was sitting near the fireplace, got up quickly, made a few steps towards me, looking at me with apparent surprise. " Do you not recognize me ? " he asked at last. "No," I replied. "Nevertheless, your features remind me of . . ." . " Do you ever think, from time to time, of the Secret Valley?" • " The Secret Valley ! " I cried. " You are a Martin — Emile, perhaps ? " "No, sir," replied the young man, and his face became clouded ; " my poor brother is dead. I am Victor." I took both his hands in mine, and led him back to his seat. "I hardly dare ask any more questions," said I to him. " Fifteen years represent a long space in one's life. Your grandfather ..." 6o MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. " He went before my brother and mother ; but my father is living. It was he, Peter, and Louise who told me to remember them to you when I was starting for Europe. I have a niece," added the young man ; " she is in some way your god-daughter, for she is called Lucienne, and here is her portrait." Victor held out to me a photograph, and for a moment I seemed to see Miss Louise again, as I saw her on the road from Quebec. May (iod continue to bless her ! r IS ber ,^ »> ter, It I oni NIAGARA IN WINTER. CHAPTER I. The coasts of Canada — Sir John Burton — Miss Mary's cloak — Halifax — A sledge drive -A restaurant in a cellar — An oyster-fight — American liberty — Sir John again. On the loth of February, 1863, eleven days after leaving Liver- pool, the Scotia, a fine steamer of the Cunard line, cautiously steered into the Halifax harbour. The passage had been very rough, and we had twice almost disappeared beneath the green waves which wash the coast of Canada. The state of the sea for the last five days had prevented us from going on deck ; but, in spite of the waves, the snow and the ice, we were obliged to leave the heated saloon, from time to time, to get a breath of fresh air outside ; it nevertheless required a good quarter of an hour's deliberation before taking this decision, especially on my part. We were about fifteen passengers on board, among whom were an Englishman, and a young American lady, between seventeen and eighteen, Miss Mary, the daughter of a doctor at Cincinnati. All my other fellow-travellers were for the most part Canadians, who knew from experience the inclemency of the climate, and were well provided with fur ' iothing. Being accustomed to live in the tropics, I had .ilmost begu'i to dis- believe in the existence of cold, and hac;. vieglected ) )viding myself with a fox-skin cloak, and a pair of wal.^rproof boots lined with fur, with which possessions I saw my companions, the Englishman included, able to brave the weather on deck. Now, whilst Sir John Burton, who represented on board Old 62 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. England, just as I was a representative of Old France, was walking from pori to starboard, comfortably wrapt up in his furs, I bravely strode from stem to stern in an overcoat, a hat and shoes. My self-pride forced me to seem insensible to the cruel, biting north wind ; but I charitably warn my readers that an overcoat, excellent for the season in London or Paris, is a very poor protection from cold on the coasts of Canada, between the months of October and April. Whilst trying to disguise my feelings, especially when the son of Albion was on deck, I shivered from morning to night, and mentally anathematized my want of forethought. " Go and put on your fur cloak and your high boots," they would say to me. " It is not cold enough," I replied, trying to force a smile from my frozen lips. They looked at me with surprise, and I got close up against the steamer's funnel to try and get a little warmth ; an action which at once belied my words. At last I was obliged to confess that I had neither fur coat nor high boots, and that I had foolishly relied on the heat of the sun, which generally baked my shoulders in February. Touched with pity, a Canadian, more than six feet high, on the strength of being my countryman — he was, he said, from New France — lent me a pair of gigantic boots, which reached up to my waist. I bought an almost new fur cap from a sailor ; and Miss Mary so kindly offered me an opera cloak, lined with fur, that I was obliged to accept it. My costume, although warm, was, it appeared, rather grotesque ; for each time I went on deck I was hailed with general bursts of hilarity. I laughed myself as heartily as any one, except when the Englishman was there. This poor Englishman had such a disagreenble way of laughing, especially when he was talking with Mis^ Mary, that he (juite annoyed me. Miss Mary, who was vrell educated and clever without ap- pearing to be so, was returning from visiting England, France, Germany, Italy and Spain. She was more graceful than pretty; but with a woman grace and good temper are the first qualities, NIAGARA IN WINTER. 63 and the only ones which do not fade. My cap especially amused the young lady ; however, she made up for her teasing by choosing me almost always as her partner. Her father, the doctor, took little notice of her. The day after leaving Liver- pool he had begun a whist-party, which was only interrupted by meals, and was to last till we reached Boston. Miss Mary was a true American woman, and did just as she liked. She would be on deck all day, walking from one end of the ship to the other, whilst every one made way for her with a respectful politeness which removed all idea of gallantry. How is it that in France we are not well-bred enough for our customs to permit of this free confidence? Why do we continually forget that we have brothers and sisters? I am no admirer of Americans ; they are rough, ill-bred, and their brusqueness is proverbial ; but their respect for women, which is perhaps carried even further than in England, makes me envy this quality for my countrymen. A young girl in America may travel from one end to the other of her vast country without having to fear the insolent looks or the vulgar compliments which are so common among French people. We pride our- selves on our politeness and civilization, and yet our country is about the only one where a woman cannot travel alone. But let us return to Halifax. As we approached Newfound- land, the tempestuous sea, with the enormous l)locks of ice dashing against the hull of the Scotia^ had gradually subsided into calm wave.s, over which a light mist seemed to float. In front of us was an indented coast covered with snow. We entered a wide channel, and then an immense bay, capai)le of holding more than a thousand vessels, suddenly opened before our astonished eyes. I stood for a long while lost in thought. This land, in appear- ance so barren, had once belonged to France. This magnificent harbour, one of the largest in the world, where five or six brigs laden with coal, and as many fishing-smacks, were now lying at anchor, had long seen the white flag, then the national standard of France, waving from the overlooking fort. Outside flowed the majestic St. Lawrence, ascended for the first time by 64 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. Francis Cartier, and which serves as a kind of outlet to those inland seas, called the Lakes Superior, Huron, Michigan, Iro- quois, Erie, Ontario ; these last two are, as is well known, united by the celebrated Niagara. Beyond these coasts rise Quebec and Montreal. Above the Gulf of Fundy, and the state of Maine, stretches an extensive country, wrested from F'rance, in spite of the military talents of Montcalm, and the heroic courage of the handful of soldiers he had accustomed to victory. " Well, Mr. Parisian," said a clear young voice, interrupting rny reflections, "are you not thinking of going on shore? " " Most certainly. Miss ; have you any commission for me?" " I am going to propose that you take me with you. My father does not care to expose himself to this north wind, which at present is giving your nose a beautiful bluish hue ; but I want to pay a visit to the daughter of the judge of Halifax, who is a friend of mine." ' By way of reply, I offered my arm to the young girl, and passed triumphantly before Sir John Burton, who was obliged to bo.v to me. He was newly shaven and splendidly dressed, and his appearance, although somewhat stiff, was not wanting in elegance. I had put aside my mantle and high boots for this visit to the capital of Nova Scotia ; nevertheless, Sir John was better dressed than myself ; 1 could not deny the fact, and I was doubly obliged to Miss Mary for having chosen me as her escort. ' Halifax in fine weather is the seat of an important commerce, and nothing can then equal the activity which fills its crooked streets with people and noise. In winter the communications with the interior of the country are often suspended, the principal inhabitants emigrate, and the town is in some mea.sure deserted. The snow becomes heaped up around the deserted >iouses, and prevents all access, in spite of the height of their steps, which look as though they were perched on stilts. Following the advice of a Canadian, 1 went in search of a sledge ; for my companion would never have been able to walk through the four feet of snow with her long skirts. NIAGARA IN WINTER. 65 the ten is up of en ts. At last, with a young lad to drive us, we are on our way to the judge's house. The black horse drawing our ecjuipage is a magnificent animal ; he gaily shakes the hells on his collar, and trc'tS along with a firm step over the hardened snow. The sledge goes up and down, and from side to side. I cannot see the ground, but have an idea that the streets of Halifax are not very level. Almost all the houses have a gloomy aspect ; nevertheless, here and there a long column of black smoke issues from a roof towards the grey sky. My companion joins with the driver in urging on the steaming horse. From time to time we meet a bundle of furs, which stops to see us go by, but there is no possibility of saying to which sex it belongs. We cross an extensive white plain, dotted here and there with villas built of wood, all hermetically closed ; their inhabitants are probably frozen, for nowhere is there a living being visible, nor a sound of life to be heard. At last the sledge stops before the door of a large house, with a flight of twelve steps, at pre- sent buried under snow. The judge has left for Qutbec or Montreal, so we have had our drive for nothing. Miss Mary is highly amused, and orders our driver to take us back to Halifax by the longest road, if there is one. The young Canadian smiles, he whips his horse, and we are once more gliding over a spotless sheet of snow, whilst large flakes fall around us and obscure our view. From the way that five or six bundles of furs look at us as we pass them, and then raise their hands to the sky, I am convinced that our driver is taking us along an unsafe road. We are going like the wind, we hardly know where, for the snow falls thickly. Just as I am wrapping myself up in the furs as well as I can, we reach Halifax, and our horse stops in front of a house around which the snow is piled like a rampart. Miss Mary jumps out, and I follow her between two walls of ice. We reach a door, and then find ourselves in front of a staircase lighted by gas, which we descend. Passing through a corridor, we enter a long room in which a table is spread. A suffocating heat pervades this den, where n .score of concentrated odours offend my nostrils ; but Miss Mar) does not seem to 9 66 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. notice it. She has given her name to the servant, for she knows the hotel-keeper's daughter, with whom she is invited to dine, whilst I am asked to go into the diniu^-room. , • Entering the underground room called by that name, I find most of the passengers of the Scotia, drinking, talking, :ind smoking, and all are anxious to welcome me. I am called from one table to another, and obliged to taste the national drinks which I have heard praised so much during the voyage, but which I think detestable. I am at an hotel ; dinner is to be at one o'clock. Meanwhile, I am told of the excellence of the Canadian oysters ; I cannot say how many dozen of which are ordered in my honour. " No one can flatter himself he has really eaten oysters until he has tasted ours," said my fellow-traveller who had lent me the boots ; " you will see." I did indeed see ! The palate and stomach want a great deal of training to taste and digest the infinite variety of dishes which man has invented ; my education in this respect was almost perfect, thanks especially to my sojourn among Indian tribes. How many pages it would take to enumerate the frightful mixtures under the name of national dishes with which I have been regaled both among savages and civilized people ! Oh, what trials my palate has been subjected to ! — and what stomach can be better inured to this sort of thing than mine? I thus disappoint my friends, who pride themselves on their recherche dinners. I like everything, which proves, they say, that 1 like nothing. The fact is, I have been obliged to ac- custom myself to eat with my eyes shut ; but when I think of it, how foolish man is with regard to his food ! At dinner, who should sit opposite me but Sir John, who had sprung all of a sudden from I know not where. A waiter biinjT^s us both deep plates full of clear, gluey water, in which float little black balls. On either side of us are piles of sand- wichi :; made v":th brown bread and rancid butter. They provide us with spoons. The Canadians are looking at us, and we look at eaci . other with an air of commiseration for the first tir.ie. V 'i^', '*'.,.!' I- ^jiy-. ..[^^=^ ^, ■ NIAGARA IN WINTER. 67 iter lich jid- ley Ind rst For want of something better to say, I ask my neighl)our on my right for information as to the v;ay of preserving the singular oysters he is devouring. Sir John casts uneasy looks about him. At last he lifts the spoon to his moulh, turns first red, then pale, and closes his lips ; his eyes become dilated. Will he swallow it ? T/ia/ is the (juestion. He does swallow it ; but he immediately .seizes a tankard of beer, takes one drink — that is quite enough ; he orders the waiter to take away both oysters and beer, and helps himself to a stiff glass of cognac, looking at me rather sheepishly as he does so. " Come," thought I with resignation, " it seems that it is still worse than it looks." The lookers-on are sneering at the unfortunate Englishman. I take advantage of this diversion to set to work. By dint of energy and perseverance, I empty my plate and tumbler, and, behold me crowned a Canadian ! I am infamous enough to declare the oysters excellent, and they immediately want to give me a second dose. I manage to escape this politeness, which would have been too much fc • my courage, and I forget the frightful taste of the mixture 1 have just swallowed, in eating a slice of leg of mutton, which Sir John dare not touch. Towards nine o'clock I escorted Miss Mary back to the Scotia, closely followed by my an gonist. The following morning we were on our way to } ston, steering through a fog, which made it necessary to ket | the alarm bell constantly ringing, in order to avoid a coUisio: Owing to the snow, the depth of which rendered all comn^ lication with the interior impossible, I was obliged to giv' 1 > my intention of reaching the St. Lawrence, to ascend it as lar as the Niagara Falls, the principal object of my voyage. I took leave of Miss Mary and ner Aither, after receiving a pressing invitation to visit them if ever I came to Cincinnati. Just as I was entering the railwnv carriage I saw Sir John. He was not dressed for travelling, .jut he kept his eye on me, as though resolved to convince himself of my departure. I pas.sed him without the slightest recognition, and he on his part took no notice of me, although we had hved together for twelve days. Z ^':'V 68 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. True, we had only exchanged contemptuous smiles ; if my boots and cloak amused him, his vexation at Miss Mary's preference for me was sufficient retaliation. Twelve hours later we reached New York, where I found a spring-like temperature. However, far from imitat'ng the Yankees, who were already beginning iced drinks, I walked along the shore of the bay, thankful at feeling the warm sun once again on my shoulders. The same evening, in the drawing-room of a charming Spanish lady, I announced my intention of visiting the Niagara Falls. My project was received with loud protests. " It is im- possible," said they, "to get near the Falls in winter, or to see the islands and walk in the cave of the winds ; I ought to wait for the summer to see Niagara in all its splendour." And they were Americans those tra.\-e\\ers, par exce//e^/ce, who tried to persuade me to give up my excursion. They told me that it would be mere waste of time, and that I should come back quicker than I thought to do. They even added that I should risk finding a lodging, the hotels being deserted as soon as the snow begins to fall. I had travelled too much to allow myself to be intimidated ; besides, as I must shortly start for New Orleans, I had no choice of season left me. A week later I went to the New York railway station, and took the train for Albany. The waiting-room of this extensive line was nothing but a small, insignificant apartment, scantily furnished with wooden forms, so well covered with grease that I dared not sit down. The dirty state of the termini and the American cars seems to me to have been generally overlooked by European travellers, who, when in the United States, shut their eyes to all but liberty. I have led an existence too free from trammels not to understand the enthusiasm which the love of liberty inspires ; but cleanliness is not to be despised. I also confess that when several of my travelling companions shouldered their guns to fire past me from the carriage at an unfortunate crow, which I innocently watched from the window, I should have preferred seats less dusty and brushed, if only once a year, to this proof of national independence. i '' Fit ily lat Mr Mil X iPPPPPIMIiPiiMMp mmmmimmmn '" .::37 - i -;:» s -^f NIAGARA IN WINTER. 69 Hardly had we started, than one of my companions informed me that, we were travelling on the best-laid railroad in the United States. It is true a communicative passenger — one is hardly allowed to be silent in America — had told me the same thing of the railroad between Boston and New York. I have crossed the United States fron one extremity to the other, and I know that this praise of the Boston and Albany railroads is well merited. My fellow-travellers were not long in informing themselves of the price of my hat, and travelling-bag, an article then un- known in America. They drew my attention to the little flags which the pioneers held up to show that the line was clear, or to stop trains in case of danger. I was much struck with this happy innovation, and my companions seemed to notice my wonderment with surprise. ♦ ♦ « * « « « The train stops. " Kingston ! " cried the guard. I smile as I remember that it was at Queenstown in Ireland that Sir John came on board the Scotia. I lean mechanically out of the window j a traveller runs along the platform, and jumps into the train. Upon my word Sir John has a brother, or it is he himself I have just seen. CHAPTER II. The palisades of the Hudson — A stolen repast — Is it he ? — The Falls — The suspension bridge — Blondin's rope — Under the Niagara — Cin- cinnai — An introduction. If thc/e is much unworthy of admiration in the United State.s, still all is not to be found fault with. The railway cars are made so as to allow of passing from one end of the train to the other, even when it is in motion. As an exception to the rule, the train in which I had taken my place was arranged like our 7« MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. own, so that it was impossible to discover whether my surmise was but an illusion. After all, what did it matter? To my knowledge Sir John had never told any one the object of his visit to America, nor mentioned the place he was going to ; and the laws of England, France, and America left him at perfect liberty to go to Albany, even in the same train that I had been pleased to choose for my excursion. ' The road to Albany, or rather to Troy, is certain y one of the most picturesque in the world. It runs along the right bank of the Hudson, which flows on widening and narrowing, and the celebrated palisades of which a stranger takes at first sight for immense fortifications In the distance the steep cliffs resemble the black marble of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. Brigs, steamers, and small boats descend this stream full speed, or ascend it with more difficulty ; there was an animation only equalled by that on the Thames below London Bridge. I caught a glimpse of West Point, the celebrated polytechnic school of the United States. But the country seemed bare, the houses were shut up, and one would have thought them unin- habited, except for the smoke wreathing from the chimneys. The buildings, boats, carriages, and inhabitants reminded me of the neighbourhood of London, which I had recently visited — so much so, indeed, that I asked myself if I were dreaming, and if I had indeed crossed the Atlantic. It was night; and the rain fell heavily. The engine gave a shrill, mournful whistle ; we had reached Albany after doing a hundred and forty-four miles in seven hours. I sprang out of the train, and from pure curiosity looked everywhere for Sir John. I must have been mistaken, for I saw no signs of my former travelling companion and rival. The next day, as soon as it was light, I set out again on my journey. In one day I passed through Utica, Rome, Syracuse, and Palmyra, to reach Rochester. The country became more and more desolate, and the snow fell thickly. Yesterday I thought myself in England, to-day I am in Germany ; the inscriptions and sign-boards are all written in the language of that country. The train stopped to allow of our getting some dinner. Every i?i NIAGARA IN WINTER. 71 one got up, jostled and ell)owed each other in a very unceremo- nious manner, all trying to s(jii< 've through a narrow door. In P'rance the twentieth |)art of this pushing and knocking about would have brought about a general mi'lee ; not feeling hungry or vigorous enough to take part in the assault, 1 allowed the crowd to i)ass me. At last I entered an immense room, almost filled by a large table, around which most of the places were taken. I installed myself as well as I could, and a waiter placed boiled turkey before me, with the tr.'ditional English paste-like sauce. I asked for the bill of fare : it was composed of ten entrees^ but the best had already been demolished by the first comers, whilst I was washing my hands. I had hardly sat down when my fellow- travellers rose from the table, and were ready to start again ; and yet people say 'bat the French are quick ! I have seen steam and electricity perform marvels in tht way of speed, but they are surpassed by the rapidity with which an American will gulp down a meal ; it is legerdemain : ;)plied to gastro- nomy. A bell rings, and I run out at once. It is only the first signal. A snow storm is whirling round five or six locomotives. One of them is shunting, and getting ready to start ; is it the train that I should go by ? There is not a railway ofificial or placard from which I cai get any information. I question three or four gentlemen in vain. What am I to do ? I catch sight of a grocer standing at his shop-door, and as I do not care to be taken back to Batavia, Tonawinda, or Canandaigna, I address myself to him, and, being a polite and obliging man, he directs nie to my train. We make our way through a terrific storm, which quite obscures our view. Night comes on, and the travellers get out at the different stations, until I am lei' alone in my compartment. At Lockpo' t most of the carriages are taken off, including the sleeping-car, from which a man descends. He seems in a bad humour, and the guard is obliged to tell him three times that he must get into my compartment if he wishes to go to Niagara. The door opens, and Sir John makes his appearance. IMAGE EVALUATIOK TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l£i|Z8 lU Ui lU Bt u •A 2.5 2.2 ^ 12.0 1^ na Ptiotographic _Sciences Corporation A ^ V '^ o '\ ^\ ^< 23 WIST MAIN STREiT WfUTER.N.Y. 14SM (71«)«72-4S03 ^"^V"^ ^^y^ ^ ? 72 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. Our eyes reet. He arranges himself in a way so as to give me his back ; I imitate him. and thus we proceed on our way. Has chance thrown us together ? It is most probable. In short, the English tourist is a man of my own age, well-educated, and able to speak French fluently. Everything should draw us together, and so much the more as we are fifteen hundred leagues from the Channel ; but it appeared that we were not meant to come to a friendly understanding. The locomotive stops. What has happened ? The darkness is intense. A continual noise, like the rustling of leaves in a forest caused by a hurricane, reaches us. The guard makes his appearance. " Do you gentlemen wish to cross the bridge ? " "What bridge?" "The great suspension bridge. We can take you to the other side of the Niagara, but travellers generally prefer to get cown here, and cross over on foot." I did not understand the motive for this preference until the next day; nevertheless, I followed my rival's example, and jumped out of the train. Nothing was visible around us save a far-off light, which marked the place of our destination. Directly we had started we found ourselves sinking in a quagmire at every step. Sir John grumbles, whilst I laugh, and our troubles are mutual. " Where are we ? where can we find an inn ? " I asked of the guard. ** I am going to shunt the train ; will you wait for me ?" I was obliged to resign myself to my fate. AOcr waiting a quarter of an hour, and when I was beginning lo shiver with cold, the guide appeared. He took me to a stove, and then led me to a table amply provided with food, and lastly, showed me a comfortable room where I should have slept soundly had it not been for the unceasing roar of the cataract. I was up next morning before daybreak, which only resulted in trying my patience to the utmost. To pass the time away I went all over the immense hotel, now deserted and silent, but in summer filled with six hundred travellers at a time. As soon i NIAGARA IN WINTER. 73 I ■■ i as it was light I took up my .station at a window, and looking in the direction from which the thundering noise I had heard all night seemed to proceed, I expected to see the first rays of the sun illumine the Falls. However, nothing of the kind was visible. I could only see a few houses, and roads seamed with ruts ; the hotel was more than a mile from the Falls. I left my post after making this grand discovery, and went downstairs- just in time to see Sir John start off alone in a fly ; he had been more thoughtful than myself, and had made inquiries and ordered a carriage the evening before. He looked at me, and his smile caused me a slight feeling of vexation. It was ten o'clock before I was, in my turn, in possession of a carriage and guide. The sun showed itself at rare intervals through the clouds : a bleak north wind swept the six inches of snow which covered the ground, and the horses could only get slowly along. The dull thundering sound, which no compari- son can give an idea of, became more marked. I ensconced myself in the cushions of the carriage until my guide said, in a phlegmatic tone — "The Falls." For a long while I remained lost in ecstasy, silent, over- powered. I did not think, I simply gazed with awe on the falling mass of water, and the yawning abysses, in this weird scene. It was a fine spring day when I first saw the ocean ; the peaceful waves were gently rippling over the shore : my expectation had been deceived. Here, on the contrary, as when I first entered a virgin forest, the spectacle surpassed all that I had dreamt of : my imagination was outdone. An hour previously I had admired the fine engravings on the walls of the hotel representing Niagara under aspects familiar to all ; clumps of green trees, gravel roads, pretty villas, fine ladies and gentlemen walking about, grounds as well kept as an English park. Winter had effectually transformed this scene ; before me stretched a desolate, rugged, gloomy land- scape. The rocks which on the United States side are seen at intervals, their black masses standing out boldly through the clouds of spray, were now hidden under a sheet of ice, whilst 74 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. the snow-covered peak of Goat Island was hidden by the foam- ing water, boiling and dashing against it. I here saw nothing but a liquid mass, more than a thousand yards wide, advance majestically, and then precipitate itself with overwhelming force into a gulf below. One would have said it was the sea break- ing its bounds and deluging the land. It was some lime before I followed my guide, who no longer felt any enthusiasm at the sight of this magnificent spectacle. His first proceeding was to take me to see the rope, still stretched across the water, on which Blondin had crossed, not the flails —which would be impossible — but the Niagara, where its d'^'^p, swift water rolls in great, swollen waves. I afterwards went on to the suspension bridge, a marvel of architectural daring. It is more than seven hundred and fifty feet long, and overhangs the river from a height of about two hundred and seventy feet. I followed the side-way for foot passengers, the centre being a railroad, and I then understood that the railway officials were right in consulting the wishes of travellers before taking them over this aerial road, wider but perhaps less firm than that on which Blondin made his omelette. On reaching the Canadian side I saw the before-mentioned American fall to my left, and in front of me the horse-shoe of the principal fall. The banks along the side of the river rise perpendicularly to the height of at least three hundred feet ; the continual spray showered from the foaming torrent covers the snow with a mantle of glazed frost, and wlierever the water trickles slowly, it forms fine needles of ice, sometimes' several yards in length. An unexpected ray of sunlight illumined the scene ; a rainbow spanned the whirlingeddies ; the rocks sparkled beneath their icy coating ; the falling water assumed a bluish tint ; the transparent needles, coloured by the variegated light, seemed to encase the Falls in a gigantic setting of diamonds. A negro came up unexpectedly, and offered to take me under the curve described by the waters of the lake as they form the Falls. The whirlpools possess a fascination which I could not resist, and I accepted the offer, in spite of the remon- strances of my first guide. Enveloped from head to foot in a NIAGARA IN WINTER. 75 ,V.fc , lid )n- a waterproof dress, the soles of my boots provided with climbing- spurs, and a staff in my hand, I ventured on the bank as firm and polished as a mirror. The first few steps were easy enough ; tlun I had to walk close against the perpendicular side of a smooth rock, to which I tried in vain to clinp to oreserve my equilibrium ; but in order to do that, I should have wanted fingers provided with cupping glasses like flies' feet. The least false step would have precipi- tated us into the abyss ; my negro repeatedly reminded me of this, and I was not in a position which authorized a contradic- tion of his words. Before inviting a traveller to attempt this perilous walk, the guides ought at least to ask whether he is subject to giddine.ss. The negro told me, that beneath the bed of ice on which we were treading, there was a path cut in the rock, which visitors took in summer. We were soon under the ice-needles, and I was able to un- derstand tht'ir formation. The edge of the bank overhangs, and allows the water to trickle drop by drop, which thus freezes in the form of stalagmites. The path became more practicable if not easier ; a false step would no longer have been a fatal condemnation to death. We ventured b*itween the transparent columns ; suddenly a formidable noise, which not even the roar of the Falls could quite stifle, caused me instinctively to lower my head. It wi i occasioned by one of the ice-needles which my guide had disturbed with his stafT, and which crumbled to pieces, awakening a thousand echoes. A few steps further on, we met a mulatto supporting a benumbed traveller. I uttered a cry'of surprise on recognizing Sir John, enveloped in a water- proof dress like myself. "Do you come from the cave?" cried the negro to the mulatto. "No." " Are you going there ? " " It is impossible to get there." I gave my guide a questioning look. He showed me two rows of while teeth, from ear to ear, and hastened to reply — " It is difficult ; but, nevertheless, it is to be done." 76 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I continued my way ; whilst the Englishman regaled himself from his flask, and sat down, following me with his eyes. It was indeed a difficult enterprise. I no longer risked fall- ing into the Niagara, but many times escaped plunging into the fathomless basin, hollowed by the Falls, the depth of which increases every day. Clinging to the ice by the aid of my iron- pointed staff, or mj' climbing-spurs, crawling sometimes at full length, sometimes sideways, rolling to the right and to the left, not without bruises, and unable to hear a single word of my guide's directions, 1 came upon a column of water barring my passage, but which I must nevertheless pass. I sprang for- ward ; and I confess I should have been knocked down, had it not been for my campanion's firm grasp. I came off with nothing more than a formidable shower-bath, and found myself on a black soil in semi-obscurity, and in a comparatively warm atmosphere. The negro never let go of me now, and we advanced cautiously together along a narrow path where two people could not have stood abreast. Before me the water was rising and falling in mad fury, and covering me with icy spray. I leant with my back against a rock ; above my head arched an immense bluish-green vault : it was the Niagara. After a while the deafening roar caused me unbearable torture. I wanted to sit down to contemplate, to reflect. Vain efforts ! One determined, imperious, maddening thought alone possessed me, which was to silence the cataract, and prevent the water from whirling around me. A stone from the rocks fell at my feet, on the very verge of the abyss ; I stooped down to pick it up, and then made a sign to my guide that I wished to return. I passed under the waterfall again, and directly the sky was visible I stretched myself on the ice and breathed freely, whilst my negro smiled placidly. Was the kind of nightmare, which had filled me with the mad longing to struggle against the Niagara, occasioned by the cold, by the want of air, or by a low state of the spirits ? I am not subject to giddiness, and I think a deafening and continuous noise should be ranked among the infernal punishments. When I had again passed the needles, I caught a glimpse of ilst ad d, i. \ i of fc ' ••THE WATER COVERED ME WITH FROZEN FOAM. ' y NIAGARA IN WINTER. 77 . Sir John near the bank, and was childish enough to wave my handkerchief, in sign of triumph. I slowly made my way back, with only a momentary fear when crossing for the second time the mirror of glazed frost, from which I could so easily have slipped into the river. Once again on the bank, I vowed never again to go under the Niagara — at least, not in winter. I afterwards visited Goat Island. I also went up the famous tower, which American newspapers from time to time announce as having been swept away into the gulf which it overlooks ; a catastrophe which must happen sooner or later. From the top of this tower I gazed down into the abyss. I saw the water advance with giddy swiftness, as though preparing for the leap, precipitate itself, rise in columns, fall again, finally sweep on down the slopes, called rapids, and then flow calmly and clearly beneath the great suspension bridge. I did not fail to visit the banks of I^ke Erie, whose yellow waters, lashed by the wind, are continually adding new waifs to the trunks of trees heaped up on the shore. I did not get back to my hotel until evening. There I learnt that Sir John had justed started for Buffalo. I was vexed at this, and felt like a conqueror disposed to abuse his victory. Buffalo, which I visited next day, is a large, fine city, with regularly built streets, which undoubtedly, on account of their width, are somewhat monotonous and dull. At the beginning of the present century Buffalo was only a village, with scarcely a thousand inhabitants. Although situated at about three hundred and twenty miles from the sea, this city, through Lake Erie, and the canal which connects it with New York, is now a port of the first importance, and a centre of manufacture and trade. It is the great place of resort for all German emigrants, who have gradually turned this part of the United States into a new Rhine-land. From Buffalo I went to Pittsburg, where the rivers Alleg- hany and Monogahela unite and form the Ohio, one of the principal affluents of the Mississippi. The Ohio, with its yellow water, f^ows between two flat shores, and is subject to periodical 78 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. inundations. This grand river, twice as wide as the Seine at Paris, falls iiitu the Mississippi at Jefferson, after a course of 1 1 80 miles. Fifty years ago the country watered by the Ohio was almost a desert. Travellers scarcely ever ventured on these plains, formerly inhabited by an industrious people, traces of »vhom are found at every step. From the American archaeological point of view, Ohio is the richest of the United States. Un- fortunately, up to the present day the researches of the learned have thrown little light on the mysterious people who covered it wiih buildings, and whose name is not even known among the Indians. The sieamer, on board which I had been making my voyage of exploration, landed me one fine morning at Cincinnati. I at once went in search of the house where Miss Mary and her father lived. The doctor received me with all the warmth of an old acquaintance. His daughter was not at home, but he invited me to dinner, and sent at once for my portmanteau, which I had left at an hotel, declaring that I should sleep under his roof as long as I stayed in his native town. " We often talk of you, Mary, John and myself," said the old gentleman to me; "to say the truth, I hardly expected to see you again." I was going to ask the doctor if he had a son, when a carriage stopped before the house, and, to my great surprise, in came Miss Mary, leaning on Sir John's arm. " My husband," said the young lady to me, after having shaken hands. Then she gave my name to Sir John Burton ; so at last we were introduced to each other. At dessert I learnt that the young baronet, attracted by Miss Mary's charms, had not hesitated to leave England and take a berth on board the Sco/ia at Queenstown. He followed the doctor as far as Cincinnati, and there formally demanded his daughter's hand. The doctor having reqiiired a week's delay before giving an answer, Sir John had taken the journey to Niagara to pass that time as quickly as possible. It was for a in 's ey or NIAGARA IN WINTER. 79 % the sakf: of propriety that Miss Mary had always accepted my arm on board ; the good Englishman thus regarded me as a rival, and naturally had a grudge against me. '* Who would ever have suspected this little romance ? " said I to my new friend, warmly shaking his hand. *' True," cried the doctor. '* Who on hoard would ever have thought that you were aspiring to become my son-in-law ? " " No one but myself, perhaps," rejoined l^dy Hurion, blush- ing, whilst her husband kissed her, and her father hummed the American national air of " Yankee Doodle ". ' ■ SAN FRANCISCO. The Chinese theatre — A fellow-countryman — The EI Dorado of Cortez — The village of San Francisco— A rich proprietor — A gaming-room — A Yankee, Yankee, and a half — " A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush/' It was five o'clock in the afternoon, when, beginning to feel uncomfortably inclined to yawn, I made up my mind to leave the Chinese theatre of San Francisco, where curiosity had led me. Were the actors indifferent ? I do not think so ; for the Chinese by whom I was surrounded were approving the tirades recited for their benefit with very significant nods. As for the piece — an exaggerated drama, as well as I was able to judge from the length of the spears with which the actors threatened each other — in order to appreciate its dramatic and literary merits, I ought to have understood the Chinese language, a knowledge in which I was entirely wanting. At first the costumes, the stage scenery, the music, and the spectators, had all interested me; but after watching for two hours some awkward clowns making grimaces, brandishing their swords, defying and occasionally assaulting each other without my having the least idea of the reason of their incessant quar- rels, I began to detest the theatrical art — in the Chinese form of course understood. Whilst doing my best to try and understand for what crime the young Chinaman who filled the ro/e of the princess was continually threatened with death, I mechanically climbed one of the numerous hills on which the capital of California is built. Leaving the houses behind me, I soon espied a large isolated r^^f SAN FRANCISCO. 8t of Cortez — ming-room — worth two in ling to feel id to leave iriosity had link so ; for Droving the nods. As vas able to the actors s dramatic le Chinese nting. At and the ng for two jishing their ler without isant quar- inese form rhat crime lincess was imbed one tia is built. ;e isolated tree with moss covered roots, forming a luxurious seat, on which I comfortably ensconced myself. Kroin this spot, whither chance had led me, I had a magnificent view of the city and bay of San Francisco, which soon banished the incomprehensible Chinese drama from my mind. The sun was iow in the hori/on, and its rays, gilding the blue waves of the Pacific, reminded me of that vermilion sea which washes the coasts of Lower California, and which also bears the name of the Sea of Corth. Here and there white sails filled by a gentle breeze wafted a fishing smack over the golden waves, or indolently bore a vessel to the open sea. Below me lay the immense bay of San Francisco, bristling with masts, from the top of which floated the ensigns of all maritime nations ; whilst the noises from the city, with its (juays, its up-and down-hill street.s, and its temporary buildings, sounded in the distance like an immense beehive at work. I was lost in contemplation, when a voice above me, politely asking for a light, interrupted my reverie. The new comer held a cigar in his hand, and spoke in French. He was a man of about fifty, with a fair complexion, a firm, energetic counten- ance, and piercing eyes. In reply to his request, I gave him my fusee-case. He thanked me, and after taking a few pufis at his cigar, seated himself quietly beside me. " A fine view, and a beautiful country," said he, stretching his arm towards the sea, and gradually bringing it round to the hills. " Are you a Frenchman, sir ? " I asked, in lieu of reply. " Certainly. I am from Boulogne-sur-Mer ; and what is more, 1 am your next-room neighbour at the hotel de la Sonore. It was on the strength of being your countryman that I took the liberty of asking you for a light." " Do you live in San Francisco ? " •' Yes, for the present." I again looked towards the bay, across which a steamer was passing, and my companion seemed to be absorbed in contem- plation of the city. " I alniost think I am dreaming when I carry my thoughts G 82 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. back ten years," said he, all at once. "At that time, sir, you would see a vessel once a month in this bay, where now thou- sands are crowding together. As to the great city lying at our feet, it then consisted of about fifty houses." " Did you ever visit California before it belonged ta the United States ? " "Yes, in 1845. ^ had read the old Spanish authors, and I knew that Cortez, after the conquest of Mexico, had explored the coasts of the Pacific in search of the El Dorado. Charles the Fifth encouraged the conqueror in this enterprise, but the latter scarcely went further than Lower California. Urged by I know not what instinct, I set out in search of tlie land of gold, sought for in vain by Cortez, and one fine day I landed on this appa- rently barren coast. 1 livtd here almost six months. Convinced that the soil was fertile, the country pleasant, and the climate healthy, I resolved to settle here ; and, in company with one of my friends, I bought all the land you can see before you." " All the land before my eyes ! " I repeated, turning towards my companion. " All," replied he, taking short puffs at his cigar ; " the land on which the city is built included." " Did the land on which San Francisco is built belong to you ? " I resumed, slowly scanning my words. " It belongs to me still, if you please, and in such an incon- testable way that the American Government are now offering me ten million dollars in exchange for my title of proprietor," " And are you going to accept the offer ? " " No ; I refuse, as 1 want twenty million." I thought I must be talking to an individual slightly de- ranged in his mind, like several I had seen at the time the gold fever was bringing so many emigrants to California; but my companion spoke so quietly and seriously that I hardly knew what to think of him. " Yes," he resumed at last, " do what I will I continually see behind this populous city the miserable village founded by the Franciscan missionaries in 1776, which, notwithstanding its good position, had so ill prospered, that when first I came here i SAN FRANCISCO. 83 to i it had a population of scarcely two thousand inhabitants. I have seen the poor Indians disappear one by one from this coast where they used to live ; everywhere and at all times civilization is fatal to the coloured races." " By what chance," said I, "did you become possessor of this land ? Did you foresee the future of California ?" " Not the least in the world. As I have told you, I came here in search of gold, of which there is abundance, as we now know; but I did not know how to find it. After buying the land which surrounds us, I was discouraged and weary of wandering about, so I determined to cultivate the vine, which has always flourished wonderfully in California. I dreamt of providing the two Americas with wine, and entering into trading negotiations with Europe. Unfortunately, I reckoned without considering the indolence of the natives, and, for want of help, I was obliged to give up my plans. Having made up my mind to go back to the Sonore, I tried in vain to sell the lands I had bought, even at the most insignificant price. I could find no purchaser. I wtiit awaj^, taking my title-deeds with me ; and again I set out in search of the El Dorado dreamt of by Cortez, and near which I had just been unconsciously living." " How was it you did not put forward your rights directly after the cession of California to the United States, on the rise of San Francisco?" " You forget, my good friend, that the rise of this ciiy has been in some measure startling. In less than six months the village, the greater part of which was in my possession, became a considerable town, and if I had dared mention my rights to the first emigrants, I should soon have had a bullet through me.. Nevertheless, I could have made good my claims if, as I have just told you, I had not then been lo«t in the wilds of La Sonore. At the present day the right of the strongest is no longer the only law which governs this fine country, and I confidently await my twenty millions of dollars." Night was coming on. My companion got up, and I followed him. We returned to the town by the Chinese quarter, and in passing between two rows of little shops lighted by coloured 84 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. lanterns, I could quite fancy myself for the moment in a city of the Celestial Empire. San Francisco is the most dusty city in the world, for the hills on which it is built are downs, from which fine white dust rises with the slightest breeze. Built hastily and at hazard, the houses are cramped together. on the steepest hills without any regard to the convenience of foot passengers. The town, at first built of wood, has been several times destroyed by fire, and is gradually being reconstructed of stone. It is of no use to work continually for the edification of new inhabitants. San Francisco is always too small for the population it contains. One must be very rich to have a house of one's own in this city ; thus it is that the majority of the inhabitants live at hotels. But every day civilization accomplishes its wonders here ; the streets are laid out in straight lines, paved, and provided with side walks. If the police still leave much to be desired, they are neverthe- less beginning to protect the public against the bands of ill- doers of all nalionalities, who from the first made this a place of resort. The gold fever has given way to that of agriculture, and California grain is now to be seen in European markets. There is no thought of misery in this fortunate city, where paper-money is unknown ; and at the lime at which I am writing the dollar might be considered as the equivalent of the French franc. Will this prosperity last? Yes, if one considers that but a third of the whole country is cultivated, and that vast tracts of land where European grain and tropical productions might grow, still remain to be cleared. After having taken me through the districts of a city, too often described for me to hazard giving a slight sketch, which would no longer be true at the present day, my companion in- vited me to dine with him, and told me his history more at length. He bitterly complained of his partner, whose exigencies, he said, prevented the Washington Cabinet from closing the credit which the incessantly growing city rendered every day incalculably more valuable. My companion had accompanied me to my room, where we talked together until about ten o'clock, when our conver- 1 a city for the ite dust ird, the Dut any , at first , and is to work ancisco le must iius it is It every sets are ; walks, jverthe- s of ill- place of ire, and There -money e dollar 1 franc. a third of land t grow, :ity, too I, which tiion in- more at gencies, iing the ery day , where conver- \ n -' ■"" SAN FRANCISCO. 85 li 1 ".^' ■8 K H (a ^ sation was interrupted by the sound of cries and a pi$tol-shot below us. "What is happening?" I cried. "Oh ! some dispute between two gamblers." We went down : the report which we had heard proceeded from a revolver which its owner had let fall, and which had discharged itself. I entered the gaming-room, brilliant with gilding and lights. A score of men with neglected beards, dressed in woollen shirts, and pistols in their belts, were sitting at a table covered with green cloth, gambling and paying their stakes with gold-dust. Chinamen were taking round grog, consisting more of brandy than water, and often receiving from the fortunate gaiivesters a pinch of the precious metal. In short, it was a sorry spec^cle, and I did not stop long in this den. I was obliged to start for Mazatlan the next morning, and at break of day my friend of the preceding evening awoke me, and accompa:nied me to the American 'schooner on which I was to embark. " Now you know all my affairs," said he to me, " wl)at would you do in my place ? " " I should accept the ten millions already offered," I replied, " and then make for Europe as quickly as possible, to live there in peace." " Pooh ! " said he. " With my ten millions, which, in fact, would be reduced to five, since I have to share them, I should be nobody in London or Paris. Yes, I must have the twenty millions ; I have nieces to portion." Five years later, when riding through Cordova, a small town situated on the high-road from Vera-Cruz to Mexico, I alighted before a grocery shop, where I wanted to buy a box of fusees. What was my surprise on seeing behind the counter my San Franciscan acquaintance ! The Mexican newspapers had spoken of his lawsuit, then of his imprisonment ; sonje had even said that the title-deeds he produced were false. Jonan — I thiiik I may mention his name without indiscretion — took me into the parlour behind his shop, and again related his history to me. 86 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. He had, in fact, been in gaol, and after two years of imprison- ment, had succeeded in escaping. " I ought to have followed your advice," said he to me ; " but in order to secure my ten millions, I had the bright idea of changing the square roods on the title-deeds into square acres. This little game would have succeeded, and it would have been a smart piece of business to do the Yankees out of fifty million dollars ; but, unfortunately, I had a quarrel with my partner. He wanted the lion's share, declaring that if I would not yield to his demands, he would expose me as a forger. I forestalled him, and made a clean breast of our little business to an American judge. We were imprisoned, but my partner managed to escape ; and taking advantage of circumstances, in retaliation the Yankees at once declared all my title-deeds false, and pocketed the ten millions, which, if I had listened to your advice, I should have now possessed." This confession, made very innocently, showed me that a twenty-years' stay in California can singularly deaden the conscience of even a Frenchman. "After all," said the proprietor of the ground of San Francisco, "I still have several square miles in La Sonore, which the Americans will want to seize, sooner or later ; but I shall have my revenge then, for this time my title-deeds are drawn up in good form : all the same, those Yankees are notorious scoundrels." I have nothing further to tell you, dear readers, than that this is a true story. ! son- but 1 of :res. »een lion ner. ield lied an ged tion and 'our It a the 3an 3re, but are are hat 1 TORTOISE ISLAND. 4 > CHAPTER I. Departure from Havre — Deerfoot — Senor Baudoin — Count Monistrol and Baron Martin — The trade winds — Equatorial calm — The phaeton — An arrest. Love of one's country is no imaginary feeling, as modem Utopians pretend. Seven times from the deck of a steamboat I had seen the coast of France standing out clear against the horizon, and then disappearing again in proportion as the wind and steam bore us away from the land, and each time my heart beat painfully, and I felt a strange feeling of oppression. On these occasions I always take refuge at the stern, and there, unnoticed by any one, with moistened eyes I gaze on the shore and cliffs of my native country until there is nothing to be seen of them but a far-off bluish vapour. I shuddered at the thought that death might suddenly overtake me when far from this beloved land, and that my body would lie in strange ground; but I soon roused myself from these melancholy thoughts. I was twenty when I went on my first voyage, and I thought myself more master of my life than it was mistress of my destiny. It seemed to me impossible that my desires should not, sooner or later, become realities ; it was only a question of waiting. I have waited, or rather the hours, days and years have rolled on without being waited for. How many buds, on the verge of blossoming, have perished without blooming ! how many, which should never have withered, now strew the paths .1 have trodden with their discoloured petals ! One must blend the ideal with the real in our lives; but if one would avoid a It*' 88 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. painful fall, ideas and dreams must not be too loftjr. We should try as much as possible to remember that life never begins again, and that of the two faces she shows us, the past and the future, the last only really belongs to us. On the 4th of January, 1853, I was standing on the poop of a brig, en route for Yucatan. Provided with a telescope, I watched Havre disappear behind Francis the First's Tower, which was pulled down several years ago in order to enlarge the entrance of the harbour. It was three o'clock in the afternoon, the sky was black, and the sea rough. After having taken us out to sea, the pilot lowered himself into his boat, and left us to our fate ; and the Zampa^ tossing and rolling, began bravely to cut through the waves, which seemed to try their utmost to bar her passage. A mist soon hid the land from view, and I turned my looks towards a sea-gull, which was following in our wake, uttering hoarse cries, and sometimes dipping its wings in the white foam. It was almost night when the bird flew twice round the ship, and then was lost in the mist. For twelve days the Zampa struggled with this rough weather. At meal times, although feeling very uncomfortable, I took my place opposite the captain and the second mate. The cold was intense, and the deck, continually swept by the waves, afforded no shelter. Groans were continually rising from the depths of the cabin ; and, being able to walk about, I was an object of envy to my fellow-travellers. Our crew was composed of eight sailors, who, through working night and day, were almost overcome with fatigue. No one on board was lively except " Deerfoot," who was continually humming to himself, and who might be seen almost at the same time at stem and stern, in the cabins or in the yards, as though he had the gift of being in two or three places at once. I followed his example as much as I could — that is to say, I ferreted about everywhere ; but with a marked disadvantage. If, for instance, I started for the capstan the same time as Deerfoot, I invariably got there last ; and when I thought I had reached him, I heard him whistling over my head, or answering the captain's call from some corner or other. It was a curious fact that every one on board was allowed to \ ) TORTOISE ISLAND. 89 I I order, about Deerfoot, and the fragile little fellow found means to satisfy every one. Never did I see such an active little being ; and yet he did not belong to the monkey tribe. Deerfoot was fourteen years old ; he had well-opened black eyes, regular features, and a rough head of hair. He was born on the coasts of Britanny, not far from Piriac. During the three years in which he had sailed as cabin-boy, Deerfoot had visited India, E uzil, Newfoundland, and Oceanica. When I could persua ae him to talk for a minute, I ltd him on to tell me about his vo /ages, and nothing was more amusing than the remarks of this ket;^ observer ; and, after all, of all the countries he had seen, one or'ly seemed to him beautiful, fertile, gay— his own. He knew of nothing superior to the cottage where he was born, where his mother was waiting for his return. The voyage to Yucatan, where the yellow fever is so prevalent, is always well- paid, and an increase of salary had tempted the cabin-boy to visit Campeachy instead of New York. Deerfoot had his theories : he firmly believed in God, and not at all in the yellow fever ; or rather, according to him, the disease would only attack silly people. He only thought of one thing, which was the seventy-five francs which his voyage was to gain him. He re- garded his seventy-five francs as an inexhaustible mine, and the Zampa would not be able to contain the things he intended buying for his mother with this sum so hardly earned. Deer- foot had hardly reached the age I spoke of, when one thinks one's self master t>f one's life. It is an undeniable fact that I quite forgot the bad weather when I was able to get a few minutes' conversation with the little sailor. He repeated his words a little, as blunt, honest hearts have a way of doing, but one was never tired of listening to him. The life of a passenger on board ship is insupportable ; the idleness to which one is condemned makes the time seem doubly long, and the unfortunate traveller carries his weariness from stem to stern, and from deck to cabin. One cannot always read, the walks backwards and forwards become irksome ; never- theless, exercise is beneficial. Thus it is that directly I go on board a vessel, I place myself in apprenticeship and try to make 90 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. mB- myself useful for my own sake. I go up into the yards, I learn the names of the rigging, how to manage the helm, and the hundred and one ways of tying a knot. Provided with this knowledge, I help the sailors in their work — at least, I look as if I were helping them, which gains their friendship. Without counting the captain, the second mate, and Deerfoot, I soon had other friends on board the Zampa ; these were Mathurin, John, and Pornic. I do not know whether I ought to reckon Baudoin among the number. Baudoin lived on deck in the boat placed near the mainmast. He was rather bad-tempered, and never left off grumbling. Gifted with a formidable, and not at all delicate appetite, he was never satisfied. Deerfoot often reproached him on this account. However, this sulky, surly Baudoin was very good friends with me. I often obtained leave in the mornings for him to be allowed to walk about the deck ; and the poor creature, as little accustomed to the pitching as to the rolling, tried to follow me, stumbling, picking himself up, and then, infuriated, taking refuge in his last resource of grunting. We had to use force to get him reinstated in his boat ; for the captain, a strict observer of rules, would never allow a passenger of the 'tween decks to ascend the steps leading on to the poop. The reason of this rigour is not wanting in logic : a cabin passenger pays about twenty pounds, and a passenger of the 'tween decks only twelve ; now, a sum of six pounds makes a gulf between two men, the depth of which is only known to those who have experienced a long sea voyage. > At first sight one might think that a second-class passenger was necessarily an inferior being in every respect to a first-class passenger. Well, it may be strange, but such is not the case. In my seven voyages — I do not recall them for the sake of boasting — I have lazt with as many well-educated and intel- lectual men below the poop a$ above. I err : Baudoin was superior to no one ; he was less a passenger than a victim, and the captain was right in excluding him from the reserved enclosure. Baudoin was a victim ! The shipowner's orders allowed of I '•p^^CS TORTOISE ISLAND. 9» f of no weakness on the part o( the 'captain ; he was to have the prisoner executed as soon as we should have reached a certain degree of latitude. What was the crime of the unfortunate creature ? Alas i that incident to his race : he was good to eat. One evening, a fortnight after leaving Havre, as the wind had subsided for the moment and was content with filling out the sails, the captain, smoking his pipe on deck, answered Baudoin's grunting by bragging to me of his cook's talents. The bad weather had so far prevented the head steward from making a display of his culinary science. After the execution of Baudoin, I should eat — so the captain assured me — black puddings, sausages, ham, brawn, and bacon, such as I had never eaten before. This little enumeration is, I suppose, enough to let my readers know that Baudoin belonged to that class of pachy- dermous animals of which Mr. Isidore Geoffrey had made the family of the Su/Zt'enSj and which are called boars, sows, or hogs, according to their sex or age. In passing, I may remark that, with fowls and turkeys, the animal that served as a dog to St. Antony is one of the greatest resources in long voyages. It is known at what epoch turkeys were civilized ; but no one can tell the original type of the pig, so well-modified and transformed by English breeders. As for the fowl, it is thought to be a native of Persia, and what is known for a fact is, that India from the remotest times has furnished us with this useful species of bird. On the other hand, Europeans were greatly surprised to find domestic fowls in all the South Sea Islands. At Oualan, an island situated between the group of the Carolines and the Mulgravian Archipelago, although fowls were very plentiful, they were not used for food by the natives, who only learnt that they were good to eat from the crew of /a Coquille. Fowls, turkeys, pigs, dogs, cats, horses — in fact, all domestic animals — vary very much in form, plumage, or skin, which greatly perplexes naturalists. Climate has undoubtedly a great deal to do with these transformations, and it is to this that must be attributed a peculiarity met with on the south coast of the Gulf of Mexico, 9* MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. i where one finds fowls with black flesh. Although disagreeable to look at, these negro fowls are quite as tender and savoury as any others. Do you doubt, my reader, that there is a country where black fowl is served up at table ? I have many times been asked to take some, and have helped others to it. Five weeks after leaving Havre, we were sailing on a tepid sea in splendid weather, and every one on board the Zampa had forgotten the hardships of the first fortnight. Four good mothers of families, with their children, had successively made their appearance on the 'tween decks, accompanied by four working-men, the fathers of this little colony. At the table where I had for so long kept company with the captain and the second mate, I now found the widow of a plan- ter, a good lady, but rather affected ; then a fat gentleman, who, from his thick gold chain, his trinkets, studs, and rings, I took at first for a jeweller. I was mistaken. I was in the presence of a banker, who, having bought some land at Yucatan, was going to inspect it with a view to colonizing. Twenty-four hours after Mr. Martin, Count Simeon de Monistrol made his appearance. He was young, well-dressed, neithe ' plain nor handsome, but a great fop. As soon as he had taken s place next to the widow, he talked to me of hardly anything else than his horses, his shooting grounds, his estates, and, in lieu of ancestors, of his money. Noisy discussions took place between these two passengers, who had no sympathy with each other. The captain listened to their discussion with a knowing look, only interfering when it verged upon a dispute. As for myself, I found Monsieur Simeon too aristocratic, and Mr. Martin too wealthy, not to keep me at a distance. In revenge, I paid attention to Ddfta Mencia and her daughter Clara, amiable Spanish ladies, living in Yucatan, but who had been brought up at Paris. Dona Mencia was a relative of one of my friends at Mexico ; so we willingly enough formed an acquaintance. Nevertheless, we were much amused at our companions' discussions, especially when Monsieur Simeon de Monistrol styled Mr. Martin the baron ; a title which we all soon adopted for the Croesus. TORTOISE ISLAND. 93 f. • The confidence shown me by Dofta Mencia drew on me from time to time a sarcastic remark from these gentlemen, especially when they saw me talking familiarly with the passengers of the 'tween decks. These good people knew nothing of America, thus they were glad of any information I could give them ; and I prepared them somewhat for the difficulties and annoyances which they would be sure to meet with in this foreign land. DoAa Mencia and her daughter took great interest in the women and the children, and every day distributed some of their own wardrobe among them. Deerfoot, who had been obliged to serve as general valet to every one, rose i^till higher in my esteem. The sea no longer amused itself with playing him bad jokes and doubling his work, so that the cabin-boy had now a little leisure. I under- took to teach him to read ; but soon Miss Clara replaced me at the lesson hour, as, taking the advice of the second mate, I profited by the fine weather to devote myself to fishing, or rather to letting out lines, which, after having floated from sun- rise to sunset on the surface of the golden sea, returned fruit- lessly to their box. One day, a sailor of the name of Lambert, the only one with whom I was not intimate, brutally struck little Deerf :t. I snatched the lad from the coward's grasp, which acii i drew upon me a volley of coarse insults. Stunned by the blow, with a bleeding face the poor little lad crept up to Baudoin*s boat, and there wept in silence, his sense of honour preventing him from making any complaint. This was not the first time l^m- bert had ill-treated the poor cabin-boy. In the evening, when all was quiet, and the captain and I were smoking together on the poop, Lambert came up to take the helm. I at once took the opportunity of speaking in a loud voice of the sailor's bru- tality and insolence ; and the captain, who was ill-satisfied with the man's service, severely reprimanded him. Lambert made no reply ; but when he was relieved from his watch, he passed close by me and swore that he would throw me in the sea on the first favourable opportunity. The threat did not frighten me ; nevertheless I had received a warning, and not caring to take a bath in the open sea, I kept on my guard. 94' MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. t i Three days after this, the captain came on deck just as Lambert was again ill-treating Deerfoot. The commander of. the Zampa was a kind man, but he strictly enforced discipline. Lambert j-eceived a rough shaking in his turn ; and the captain threatened to give him over to the first man-of-war we met,, where he would learn obedience. Grumbling fiercely between his teeth, he declared, that not only would he throw me into the sea, but that he would send Deerfoot and the captain after me; which threat very much alarmed Dofta Mencia and her daughter. We were in search of the trade winds, which always blow. in the direction of the diurnal movement of the sun ; that is to say, from east to west. This phenomenon very much terrified tiie companions of Christopher Columbus ; for seeing the wind blow persistently in the same direction, they feared they should never get back to Spain. Science now explains the natural: cause of these tiade winds. They are composed of an upper and lower current, produced by the unequal heat of two bodies- of air, which thus glide one over the other to recover their* equilibrium. Before this discovery, the cause of the wind was attributed to the rotation of the earth, the movement of which was thus almost palpable. If sailors are eager to find the trade wind, they feel, never- theless, some apprehension in approaching the equator; they dread the equatorial calms, which seem as though of eternal duration. There is not a breath of wind ; the ship lies motion- less; the sun's rays fall vertically on the deck, melting the' pitch which joins the planks of the ship, and the sea is as smooth as glass, without the slightest movement. A month may pass thus before a tempest liberates the ship from this too; placid serenity. Water and provisions become exhausted ; the sailors, wearied by this monotonous calm, intently watch the horizon, and pray for the storm, which may prove so formidable to them. Nothing in the way of disasters and vexations seemed to be wanting during our passage, and one morning we found our- selves caught in one of these disastrous calms. The captain ■ -rrr " --T- '- ■ '"• r iiiiii^ili'iiiiiiiil i ff liitifilii tf ' •p'OffT^'Wr,' >nw oi'mip'rmifmiifiifi '1 tion- thc as ^nth too; the the ble be lur- iin ♦ T > TORTOISE ISLAND. 95 X u 13 < X H a N i became irritable; the count and the baron, being unable to breathe, wer.* at last obliged to postpone for a time their inter- minable discussions. The ship, transformed into a furnace, was uninhabitable ; thus we were obliged to live on deck. Assisted by the second mate, I made a sheltered seat on the poop for Dona Mencia and her daughter, who were stifled in their cabins ; and every evening, turning towards the setting sun, we whistled for a breeze — an infallible means oi obtaining one, according to the sailors. We whistled for a week ; and the cloudless sky tinged the sea with a deep blue. Seated at the stern of the Zampa^ I spent many hours examining the transparent water, and gazing into its fathomless depths. Sometimes a sea-monster would make his appearance quite close to us : a whale according to some, and a shark according to others ; but it never stayed long enough for us to determine its real form. The Zampa, more motionless than if she had been lying at anchor in a river, creaked mournfully. There was not the slightest current ; the things we threw overboard floated round the ship, and I was invariably unsuccessful in my fishing. One afternoon we received a visit from a phaeton, commonly called a ring-tail. The phaeton lives between the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn ; its manner of flying is graceful, and very powerful. The magnificent bird at first hovered above us, with outstretched wings, as though it were fastened to the sky ; then, swooping gently down, it flew round our masts, and again soaring upwards, disappeared from our sight with a few strokes of its wings. On t'.ie same day, hastily ascending from the hold, where he made frequent inspections, in fear of a fire through spontaneous combustion, the captain ran to his cabin and reappeared, armed with a revolver. On a sign from him, Deerfoot violently rang the bell on board, to give an alarm. Passengers and sailors hurried on deck. " Seize that wretch ! " cried the captain, pointing to Lambert, "and bring him to me." Lambert turned pale, and tried to get into the shrouds ; but .2 96 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. seeing Mathurin in his way, he threw himself into an attitude of defence. On a second order, the sailors soon secured their companion. " ?ut him in irons ! " said the commander, sharply. Then, whilst they were obeying him, and we looked on at this strange scene, the captain spoke rapidly to the Second mate, who, whilst he listened, sh6ok his fist at the prison^. CHAPTER II. Scarcity of fresh water — The calm — Flying-fish— Dorado — Tropical grass — St. Domingo — Tortoise Island — Freebooters and pirates — An un- expected meeting. Had I^mbert killed one of his mates ? They were all capable of defending themselves, and none of them disposed to be ill- treated. Deerfoot was walking about the deck, so that he was out of the question. Although the sailors had unhesitatingly obeyed their captain's orders, they did not seem very ill-dis- posed towards their companion ; they even smiled after having exchanged a few words with the helmsman, who had just come up after the captain from the hold. " The beer ration will be doubled now," said Mathurin to Pornic. " If the shipowner had an idea of this, it would be enough to prevent him from sleeping." " Provided there is enough on board." " There is too much," replied Mathurin. " For my own part, I stowed away forty or fifty barrels." " To the pumps ! " cried the second mate. The work at the pumps was an exercise in which I always joined ; so I ran to my post. The Zampa had been recently repaired, and seemed proof against anything, and the work at the pumps might be considered as a simple precaution. This time, to my great surprise, water was flowing from the ship's sides ; and I afterwards learned that I^mbert, in an excess of mad ORLD. TORTOISE ISLAND. 97 nto an attitude n secured their larply. e looked on at lie Second mate, sonfer. — Tropical grass 1 pirates — An un- vere all capable posed to be ill- so that he was unhesitatingly im very ill-dis- d after having had just come d Mathurin to is, it would be T my own part. vhich I always been recently and the work aution. This Dm the ship's excess of mad folly, had bored holes through all the reservoirs containing our supply of fresh water, and it was this precious reserve that we were throwing into the sea ! Nevertheless, the offence, grave as it was, did not seriously annoy me. I knew what an enormous supply of wine and beer the ship contained, and the idea of thirst and its intolerable sufferings was done away with. The culprit, humble, dumb, and struck with consternation, was placed at the foot of the mainmast near Baudoin, who protested against this by energetic grunts. At dinner time we found the dishes rather salt, and *he cook was accused of having a heavy hand. The poor steward justi- fied himself by saying, that for want of fresh water h-. ad been obliged to use sea-water, to which — he assured us quite seri- ously — we should accustom ourselves in a fortnight. Mr. Martin drank the wine pure, M. de Monistrol did the same ; but the ladies, from habit, were wanting water every minute, and sadly turned away their heads when Deerfoot roguishly offered to draw some from the ocean for them. The passengers of the 'tween decks were as pleased as the crew at the double ration of beer distributed among them. The captain was the only one who seemed at all anxious. Next morning, at the time Deerfoot usually filled our cabin cans, he was less parsimonious than usual, and generously distributed a liquid full of salt, soda, potash, magnesia, chalk, iodine, etc. By reason of which numerous ingredients, sea-water has the vexatious property of neither cooking meat nor vegetables, and of stoutly refusing all combination with soap. I must confess that Lambert's trick now appeared to me in a new and disagreeable light. At the end of a week, we were literally dying of thirst, doubly intensified by the air, and the enforced use of pure wine. One afternoon, guided by Provi- dence, a score of flying-fish settled on our deck. The steward at once seized the clumsy creatures, and cooked them, and we found their white, delicate flesh a great luxury. The flying-fish, or exocef (a word derived from the Greek, H 98 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. meaning ouf of its house\ is about the size of a herring. Its back has a beautiful bluish tint, and its pectoral fins, which are large, allow of its not only rising in the air, but of its skimming over the ocean at a distance of about a yard from the water. The flying-fish is often seen under the tropical rays darting like an arrow, flying from the pursuits of the hungry dorado, which often snaps up the fugitive just as its dried fins oblige it to fall back into the water. When the sea is calm, the exocet,, which almost always flies horizontally, goes for several hundred yards; but when the water is rough, it springs from wave to wave, and seems to bound like the flat stones with which children amuse themselves in making ducks and drakes. They almost always swim in shoals, and they spread themselves out by millions around ships, the enormous bulk of which probably astonishes them. Twenty-four hours after the capture of the exocets, just as 1 was drawing in my line, which floated from morning to night at the stern, I felt something heavy at the end, which augured well. Little by little, with Deerfoot's assistance, I landed a dorado, a yard long, the brilliant colour of which was a cause of general admiration. The fine fish struggled for a long while in painful agony, and its body assumed successively all the colours of the rainbow, a phenomenon well known to sailors. A slight cloud was at last seen on the bluish horizon, and was hailed by loud hurrahs from the crew. It floated along, grew larger, and then was lost in the golden mist of the setting sun. I awoke in the middle of the night ; it seemed to me that the ship, leaning on the port side, was creaking more than usual. I was not deceived ; we were moving, and the masts of the Zampa were furnished with sails. Setting foot on deck, I uttered a cry of surprise ; we were surrounded by tropical grass ; we might have thought ourselves in the midst < )f an immense prairie. The onward progress of the vessel enlivened us a little, and we wanted something to cheer us up, for we felt low-spirited and dull enough. The crew had begun to feel the bad effects of the want of fresh water, and to complain of it. Our lips were TORTOISE ISLAND. 99 1' parched and bleeding, and the wine, far from appeasing the intolerable thirst to which we were a prey, only served to increase it. The women especially suffered from this state of things. Mr. Martin would havj willingly given a thousand crowns, and M. de Monistrol one of his castles, to any one who could have offered him a glass of pure fresh water, as each of them remembered having quaffed with delight. Campeachy, the place of our destination, was still too far off for it to be possible for us to reach it without renewing our supply of fresh water ; our health would have failed, and the captain thought of putting into port. He resolved to take us to Tortoise Island, in order to avoid paying anchorage, pilotage, and tonnage dues, required of every vessel which enters a harbour open to commerce. Thus the bow of the Zampa was turned in this direction. I was pleased with this slight alteration of the ship's course, and not at all sorry to visit the ancient fortress of the bold pirates who, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, were the cause of so much harm to Spanish commerce, and gave St. Domingo to France. On the 25th of February, the day on which we ou^ht to have reached Campeachy if our passage had been accomplished regularly, we came in sight of the French cape, and, coasting alongside the large island of Hayti, we saw rising to our left the crests of the Cibao Mountains. The Island of St. Domingo, called Hispaniola by Christopher Colum- bus, was, in 1495, ^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^'^ ^^^t European settlement in America. It became legally French at the peace of Ryswick — that is to say, in 1697. A century later, the National Assembly having decreed the emancipation of the negroes, the result of this liberal proceeding was the massacre of the white people, and Hayti proclaimed its independence. The sight of land increased our sufferings, and the captain had hard work to resist the passengers' entreaties that we might land at once ; but he had the shipowner's interests to consider before us. So he shut himself up in his cabin to avoid our complaints. The wind was favourable, but still the Zampa' s progress did not satisfy our impatience. ii«cMASTER UNIVERSITY UBRARY. TOO MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I i: Under any other circumstances, this unexpected d'etour in our voyage would have been full of interest, and we should have left the land behind us without any feelings of regret. As fishing boats were sailing between us and the shore, we hoped to see one come near enough to sell us fruit or to give us a supply of water. Vain hope ' In order to get what we wanted, we should have been obliged to make signals and heave to ; and our captain had but one care, which was to advance and make up for lost time. Often very pretty birds, led by their own caprice, or carried by the wind, would perch among our rigging, and then as unexpectedly fly away again. I even met with a poor butterfly, with purple and blue wings, which 1 presented to Dona Clara. Placed by the young girl in a luxurious bed of cotton wool at the bottom of a little box, the beautiful lepidoptera succumbed during the night ; which I believe cost its new mistress a tear. Crouching at the foot of the mainr'^ast, a victim, like ourselves, to his wicked prank, Lambert would look at us with wild, hopeless eyes. Discipline, without which a long voyage would become impossible, required that he should be given over to the first man-of-war we met ; and there the unfortunate creature would have to serve for a year or two, in addition to the corporal punishment he would receive. The women, not- withstanding their sufferings, were the only ones who had self-denial and goodness enough to pity the prisoner. I am wrong. Deerfoot, under pretence of attending to Baudoin, who owed a prolongation of his life to the want of water, often lingered near Lambert and talked to him. " If he had the ch? ">ce, sir," said the good little cabin-boy to me, "he would not do it again, for he is dreadfully sorry for his wickedness. He has already served on board a man-of-war ; and with the bad character he will get from here, he will scarcely be able to find another berth. He says it was not his fault, it was his bad temper. He has asked me to forgive him for having beaten me, and he is even sorry at having insulted you. Do you know, sir, we ought to try and beg the captain to let him ofif." TORTOISE ISLAND. loi Dona Mencia and her daughter had soon drawn up a petition ; but the second mate, to whom I spoke of the proceed- ing, assured me that it would he useless. The captain would be obliged to give strict account to the shipowner of the events on board, especially when they had such serious results as those which at present were taking us to Tortoise Island. On the other hand, to allow such an infraction of discipline to go un- punished, would be to make the captain appear unworthy of his position as commander. Nevertheless, far from being discour- aged by these reasons. Dona Mencia resolved to wait until the reservoirs should be full of wa^er, and the nearness to port make all hearts less implacable. " I shall beg the captain so iiard that I shall obtain at least an alleviation of this poor sailor's punishment," said Dona Clara. " I ask you as a favour," added she, looking at me be- seechingly, " not to complain so loudly nor so often of being thirsty before the captain ; I have noticed that it irritates him still more against Lambert." I promised, and kept my word. At last the coast of St. Domingo disappeared ; a bluish line, which grew rapidly larger, stretched before us. It was Tortoise Island. The followers of Columbus must certainly have ex- perienced a lively joy when they first discovered America ; that is to say, the Island of Guanahani, or San Salvador. I doubt, nevertheless, whether their joy was greater than ours at the sight of the tall mimosas which border the northern coast of the ancient pirate stronghold. Although about thirty miles in length. Tortoise Island is only accessible by the channel which separates it from Hayti. All its northern coast is surrounded with rocks ; but our captain, whom I then suspected of having once been a smuggler, seemed to know all the ins and outs of the coast lying before us. Towards five o'clock the Zam/>a, skilfully steered, entered a little creek and cast anchor about a mile and a half from land. The long-boat was got ready, lowered, and loaded with empty casks. My reputation as a worker gained for me, as well as two of the passengers of the 'tween decks, the good fortune loa MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. of taking part in this expedition. This favour provoked energetic protest from Baron Martin and the Count de Monis- trol, who seemed to consider this privilege as a want of respect to them. The captain left these august persons to grumble to their hearts' content, and got into the boat where three sailors and Deerfoot had already taken their places. Night came on as we landed. Rolling the barrels along, we began to climb the rocks, which was no easy matter when, like the burden of Sisyphus, the casks were continually threatening to fall back on us. When we had reached the summit of the rocks, the captain seemed to hesitate for a moment ; then, giving us the order to halt, he descended the hill-side. After a quarter of an hour's absence he returned, visibly satisfied. Following his steps, at the risk of being crushed by the fall of our barrels, we came to the source of a small stream gushing from a rock, into the basin of which I unceremoniously plunged with a cry of delight. The first cask was filled, an operation which took no less than two hours. Not wishing to lose time, nor be surprised in the act of landing, the captain was anxious to set sail again at break of day ; thus he urged us on to work without intermission. But if the barrels were filled without any trouble, it \sas no slight work to get them back to the shore. I had to remain and watch the thin stream of water which a zinc gutter, brought for this purpose, conveyed straight to the bung-holes of the casks ; whilst my companions, perspiring, panting, and relieving each other from time to lime, were occupied in rolling the casks to the shore. On their return, they told me that the captain, Deerfoot and Mathurin had gone back to the ship, taking the water, which we found so delicious, to the poor creatures so anxiously waiting for it. When the sun rose, only three of our barrels were e.nbarked. The workmen, overcome with fatigue, stretched themselves be- side the fourth cask and went to sleep. I had neither the courage to blame nor oppose them taking their well-earned rest, and in the meantime amused myself botanizing. The island being well-populated, I was surprised to see no the est, no K •' ROLLING THE BARRELS TORTOISE I SI, AN I). 103 trace revealing the presence of man. and more astonished still that the approach of the /Aimpa had not attracted any of the inhahitiints. We were at the bottom of a gorge, where only a few mimosas were to he seen growing here and there. I climhed the slope in front of me, and as soon as 1 reached the top, I lookv^d down into a deep valley which I could see, as well as another low range of hills. I caught sight of a hut in the distance, and was rather startled by suddenly hearing a cock crow, and then a dog bark. I sat down, happy at being able to see trees, flowers, birds, and butterflies, after spending so many days between sea and sky ; it was an infirite pleasure to tread on firm ground, and inhale the fragrant odours. It seemed strange to be on this island, which owes its name to its form, and plays an important part in the history of France. I recalled to mind the names of the bold pirates whose histories have be.n related by Oexmelin and Archenholz, heroes who, after having taken Panama in 1670, Maracaibo in 1677, Vera-Cruz in 1683, Carthagena in 1697, would perhaps have conquered America, had their policy been equal to their courage. I remembered that the first adventurers who settled on Tortoise Island came from the Island of St. Christopher, then possessed both by the English and P>ench. After disenibarking, the new comers at once divided themselves into three classes, which are often mistaken one for the other : the buccaneers^ or hunters; \}i\Q. filibusters^ or pirates ; the inhabitants, or cultivators. The buccaneers took their name from the wooden hurdle, boucan, which they made use of in drying the flesh of animals killed for their skins. It was at the expense of the Spaniards, who made no scruple of occasionally killing them, that the buccaneers exercised their industry. Bold, brave, and accus- tomed to a life of hardships, the buccaneers were easily trans- formed into filibusters. The latter, who were true pirates, often gave chase to the Spanish vessels, and sometimes ravaged the coasts of Mexico and Peru, and made the cities pay ransom. As to the inhabitants, people of more regular habits, they slowly and honestly heaped up fortunes through their agricultural employments. I04 MY RAMBLES TN THE NEW WORLD. The greater part of the French and English adventurers were driven from Tortoise Island by the Spaniards, who were incon- venienced by their proximity. But the buccaneers, under the command of the Englishman Willis, regained possession of their fortress, firmly established themselves there, and resumed their excursions on the Island of St. Domingo. The French, thus consigned to the second rank, demanded aid from their compatriots, settled in the Island of St. Christopher, and the Chevalier de Poincy, who commanded in these coasts, listened favourably to their request. M. le Vasseur, engineer to the king, embarked on Tortoise Island in 1 640, at the head of forty soldiers, and as many volunteers. The English decamped with- out offering battle, and the conqueror at once employed his men in building the fort of La Roche, which still exists. Thus master of a little kingdon, Le Vasseur busied himself in duly administering the government. He repulsed an attack of the Spaniards ; but the desire to enrich himself made him hard, cruel, and unjust, and he was assassinated by two of his officers. The Chevalier de Fontenay then took his place, and the freebooters, sure of finding a protector here, resumed their marauding expeditions. Exasperated by the losses from which they suffered, the Spaniards had recourse to strong measures, banished the chevalier, and were soon after dislodged by M. de Rossey, who gave up the island to M. d'Ogeron, the represen- tative of the French Company in the West Indies. The filibusters reckon the Englishman Morgan as one of their most celebrated chiefs ; it was under his command that they took Panama. Pierre Legrand, whose adventurous life was quite a romance, one day, with a boat equipped by twenty- eight men, took possession of a Spanish ship carrying fifty-two guns. Nau L'Olannais and Michel le Basque, at the head of four hundred filibusters, accomplished marvels of daring ; un- fortunately, they were as cruel as they were brave, and animated with undying hatred against the Spaniards, they more than once dishonoured their victories. Finally, Montbars, surnamed the Extertninator, pillaged Vera-Cruz in 1683 ; he was the last of the great filibusters. \ TORTOISE ISLAND. 105 of Ithat life hty- itwo of [un- ited ice :he of i ! I was in the midst of niy reveries, and as the sun rose above the horizon, I saw the plain stretching at my fee* display its healthy and varied vegetation. Suddenly a rustling of leaves and sound of broken branches was heard. I got up, ex; ecting to see some animal make its appearance ; but it was no other than the prisoner of the Zampa^ my enemy, the sailor Lambert. CHAPTER III. Return to the ship — The captain and Dona Clara — A man-of-war — The pursuit — Prisoners ! — Baudoin's departure — The spermaceti whales — Campeachy — Lambert again — Andre-Marie. I QUICKLY sprang to a tree, and stood with my back against it. I confess I felt some misgivings, as I had no weapons ; and a hand-to-hand struggle could only show me in a very practical manner a truth which I had not the least doubt of in theory : the muscular superiority of a sailor's arms. Nevertheless, I put on a brave face, and made up my mind to give blow for blow, as far as possible. Lambert had stood still, and was deliberately watching me. Seeing me pick up a dry branch, which would have been a very inferior weapon, he held ou: both his hands to me. " I do not wish you any harm, sir ; on the contrary, I have come to beg of you." " How is it you are hee ? " " I escaped this morning by swimming. The ladies on board took off my irons." " There," thought I, "that is generosity, which will cost me dearly." ' Lambert drew nearer. " I have done wrong," said he to me. "You can see I do not hesitate to confess my wickedness ; but I don't want to go on board a man-of-war ; I want to get my living. I mean to go to St. Domingo, and take service on board the first American i — io6 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD- I coasting-vessel that wants a sailor, and to make up for my wickedness by i)ehaving well." " Does not your desertion expose you to some sc\erer punish- ment in the future, than that from which you are now flying?" " It condemns me to exile ; but I have got my liberty, which I want, as I have told you. Besides, time settles many things." " What do you want ? " " A little money, a loan," said Lambert to me, turning rt^d. " I have some way to go before I reach the Cape, Ind the negroes are not always hospitable." I had not been thirsty since the preceding evening ; I was happy at beinf< able to tread the ground, and to hear the birds warbling ; added to this, the penitent look of the sailor, from whom I had at first dreaded violence, disi)osed me to be com- passionate. I could not help piiying the unfortunate creature, whom an outbreak of passion placed in a position which might end in a long exile for him. I thought I ought to give him a little advice, which he listened to patiently enough, whilst at the same time on the ^ui vive for the slightest sound. He was afraid that his escape was perceived ; that the captain in his wrath would have a search made for him. A sharp whisJe was heard. 1 ended my lecture by giving the sailor my purse, which contained five pounds. He pressed my hand warmly, and at the sound of a second whistle darted off, running down the wooded slope towards the valley. I turned round to go back to the spring, and met Mathurin. The whistling was for me. The last cask ought to have been embarked, and the captain was signalling for us to rejoin the Zampa. Mathurin did not say a word to me about Lambert, and I took care not to speak of my meeting with him. On reaching the crest of the rocks overlooking the sea, I cast a last look on Tortoise Island, which 1 had no hopes of seeing again ; then I embarked, taking with me a wonderful bouquet of wild flowers for Dona Mencia. It was about ten o'clock, and the captain, attributing the delay to me, when it was really caused by the fatigue of the workmen, accosted me rather gruflly on my return to the ship. TORTOISE ISLAND. 107 k the the lip. I was silent ; the most prudent conduct in deah'ng with an irritatv°d man, but my reticence was really due to Dofia Mencia and her daughter, who from the poop were making signs to me to be silent, and to go to them. "Has Lambert spoken to you?" asked the young girl rapidly, in a low voice. " Yes ; he is now in safety. Has the captain di.scovered his escape ? " " Not yet," .said Dona Mencia ; " and we are not quite ea.sy about the poor man." I glanced in the direction of the old salt, who, anxious to lose no time in setting sail again, was busy giving the crew counties."? orders. " You would do well to go to your cabins, and shut yourselves up there," said I to the ladies. " The captain does not seem in the least humour for joking ; and there will be a tremendous storm when he finds out the prisoner's escape." " Do you think he will be seriously angry ? " asked Dona Mencia of me. " I am (juite sure of it," I replied. " I shall remain, then," .siiid Dofia Clara resolutely ; " his anger might fall on some innocent person, and I am ready to answer for my deed." " Foi our deed, my child," eagerly added Doiia Mencia, kiss- ing her daughter. 'I'he Ziimpa had just left the creek, and, with sails .spread, was making for the open sea. The sailors were busy in the rigging when one of ihem, perched on the topmast, cried — "Ship in sight." The captain sprang on to the poop, seized a telescope, and scoured the horizon. " A man-of-war," said he, after a steady examination, " and she is bearing down up n us. If she is I'rench, I will let her have Master l^^mbert, although I lo.se another half-day by it." Whilst speaking, the captain had turned towards the main- mast. " By all the powers ! " cried he, " where is the prisoner ? " io8 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The brave captain was the only one on board who was not aware of the sailor's escape. Every one felt a slight tremor as his infuriated glance rested successively on all the bystanders. As nobody uttered a word, the name of Deerfoot came like a thunderbolt from the captain's compressed lips ; and this impe- rious call was answered by a voice from the top of the mainmast. " I beg your forgiveness, sir," said Dona Clara, advancing towards the captain with clasped hands and tears in her eyes. The commander took the pipe from his mouth and stood still, expecting an explanation. *' Forgiveness for whom ?" asked he at last. " For the poor sailor whom I assisted to escape." " To escape ! " repeated the captain, looking at the sea which surrounded us. " Lambert swam to Tortoise Island in the night," said I, in my turn. " Not with his handcuffs, I suppose ? " " I took them off him," said Dona Clara, with a slight tremble in her voice. " Then, is every one captain here except myself? " roared the old seaman. " No, no, captain," I said eagerly ; " you are the sole master on board the Zampa. You have the right to put Dona Clara in irons, and not one of us, I swear, will say a word against this just punishment." " By Heaven, sir ! this is nothing to joke about, and you may learn to your cost that discipline is no idle word on board the ship I have the honour to command. Who gave her the key of the handcuffs ? " " I did," bravely answered Deerfoot, turning as red as a bullfinch. Without making any remark, the captain began to stride backwards and forwards, taking vigorous pulls at his pipe, and muttering incoherent words to himself. Now, when two ships are making for each other, they meet with incredible rapidity, and the ship we had hailed was already clearly visible to our right. The captain examined her several times through his telescope, and seemed perplexed. TORTOISE ISLAND. 109 '' Hoist the ensign," said he to a sailor standing near the steersman. In less than five minutes the tricolour flag was waving in the breeze. The vessel in sight at once responded to our politeness, and the red and blue Haitien flag was displayed from her masts. " That makes all the difference," muttered the captain. " To the sails, lads," he shouted. In less than ten minutes the Zampd's course was slightly altered, and we were sailing parallel with the little man-of-war. Almost at the same time, the sides of the schooner were enveloped in a white smoke and a cannon-shot was heard. It was an order to continue our first route or to heave to and wait. The captain, humming a French ditty, again carefully examined his vessel, and then returned to his study of the schooner. " This fine tropical bird," said he after a time, " would like us to give account for our landing. Unfortunately, I have not time to satisfy her curiosity. They are too impatient to see us at Campeachy. The wind is good, and we are out of gun- reach ; we will make acquaintance another time. Leave the flag on the mast, Mathurin ; if we do fly we are not ashamed of showing our colours." The captain's attention being thus suddenly distracted, his wrath had time to cool down. He spent an hour directing the sailors and convincing himself that our speed surpassed that of the man-of-war. This was an incontestable fact, and the captain again hummed to himself with an air of satisfaction. We were going a little out of our way ; but we should resume the right direction again under cover of night, when we should pass within gun-shot of the enemy without his seeing us. Thus it was that the captain, rubbing his hands, came up to Dona Clara to reproach her for her felony, in a voice which, in spite of his intention, was not very terrifying. The young girl, at first threatened with having her little wrists handcuffed, had not much trouble in obtaining pardon. One of Deerfoot's ears was lightly pulled just for the satisfac- no MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. tion due to discipline, and Dona Mencia had to submit to a long lecture which was indirectly ri.eant for my benefit. After all, it was quite a relief to the passengers and crew of the Zampa to lose sight of the unfortunate Lambert from the deck. Baudoin was the only one who had to complain ; his sentence was pronounced, and the hour of his execution fixed for the moment we should have lost sight of the Haitien ship. Following our manoeuvres, the schooner tried to interrupt our route ; the wind was favourable to her and she slowly but surely bore down upon us, greatly to our captain's disgust. The wind suddenly changed, and without the slightest hesitation the captain ordered to tack about ; and as in the time of the filibusters, there we were flying before the wind from a ship which suspected us of smuggling, and wanted to know our reason for landing on Tortoise Island. The Zampa was not a good vessel for speed except on a certain tack ; but our captain understood his business, and we took an infinite amount of [)leasure in the chase which was given us. Our excitement could not have been greater had we been flying before a privateer ; one v/ould have thought that certainly our honour and liberty were at stake. The enemy, being better manned, was making more speed than we did, and driving us towards the coast. What had at first seemed to me a good joke soon became a serious matter. If the schooner reached us, she would undoubtedly oblige us to go to the Cape, there to explain our conduct. This would cause a delay and a series of complications which somewhat troubled the captain. For a quarter of an hour he regretted his whim, and thought of making towards the schooner, in order to come to a friendly understanding with the Haitien commander. But having weighed the different chances of his plan, and being convinced by further calculation that the schooner could not reach us before nightfall, he determined to continue his flight. Dinner was soon over, and returning on deck, we were dazzled by the rays of the setting sun. Our vessel was enveloped in a golden mist ; the sky was red, and magnificent clouds hovered over the hills on the coast; but this grand ■ r TORTOISE ISLAND. Ill were was spectacle was lost upon us, as our attention was riveted on the schooner. The httle ship was still following in our wake, and had gained enough on the Zampa for us to be able to distin- guish her rigging and see her crew at work. When the sun disappeared, another cannon-shot again intimated an order for us to heave to ; to which injunction Deerfoot replied by dis- respectfully putting the thumb of his right hand to the end of his nose, while the other fingers were rapidly moved up and down. This vulgar piece of impudence, practised between sea and sky at more than a thousand miles from Paris, amused us more than I can say. M. de Monistrol gaily took part in the chase ; but Mr. Martin seemed very uneasy. "Bullets will come after the powder," said he; "and who will guarantee that one of their balls may not reach me ? " " No one, certainly," replied the captain ; " so in your place I should take refuge in the hold." This question of bullets, brought up by the rich banker, did not fail to make Dona Mencia and her daughter rather uneasy. I reassured them by saying, that if our pursuer thought of saluting us with a cannon ball, he would take care to send it so as to frighten, but not to send us to the bottom. The truth is, the schooner had perfect right to lodge a ball in the hull of the Zampa ; and if she had not already done so, it was because the distance between us was too great. Night came on, a dark night with no moon, under cover of which our captain hoped to make good his flight. He ordered perfect silence on board, and no light was allowed. Towards midnight the Zampa's course was again changed, and with the wind favourable, she again sailed in the direction of Campeachy at a medium speed of not less than eight knots an hour. I went to bed late, and awoke with a start, at the noise of a formidable report. Day was breaking. I was dressed, and I hurried on deck. At less than two hundred yards, a little in advance of us, was the Haitien schooner, which this time had just given us an imperative order to heave to, which would have been dangerous to brave. 112 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The sails of the Zampa were one by one lowered, but the ship continued her onward course, carried by the force of im- pulsion, and then became stationary. Half an hour later, a boat, manned by six negro rowers, came alongside of us ; and a mulatto, dressed in an overcoat, white trousers, and blue neck- tie, stepped on our deck. The new comer, of gigantic stature, wore an immense epaulette fastened on to his chest in token of his position as lieutenant. He came in quest of our captain, who at this moment was deep in thought and visibly annoyed. A glass of rum was offered to the Haitien officer, who, after having helped himself to a second tumblerful, unceremoniously passed the bottle to his sailors. We could see from the poop all that was going on on board the man-of-war, whose half- naked crew were in their turn watching us with no small curiosity. The captain of the schooner was a negro. Near him stood a European, dressed in English uniform. They had taken us for a slave-ship, and it was a question of reconducting us to Tortoise Island to make inquiries. As a consolation, the lieutenant, showing his white teeth, told me that I should have for my prison the palace built by the sister of Napoleon Pauline Bonaparte, then the wife of General Leclere, when the latter, at the head of twenty thousand men, who were soon brought low by the fatal climate, tried, in 1802, to restore St. Domingo to French dominion. Just as they were returning to the boat which was to take off our captain, he suddenly gave orders for Baudoin to be embarked. The unfortunate guest of the long-boat, disturbed by such unusual proceedings, began to utter such shrill cries, that a certain amount of agitation was visible on board the strancre vessel. " They will think that we are killing their lieutenant, and will fire upon us ! " cried Mr. Martin, in a state of alarm. Fortunately, nothing of the kind happened ; and in less than an hour after his departure, our captain came back triumphant. Baudoin had served as ransom for us. The gift of his elegant person compensated, in the eyes of the command&nt; for the TORTOISE ISLAND. 113 and infraction of maritime laws we had committed, in landing where there was no port opened to commerce. " Ah, well ! " said a voice, " I should have been sorry to have seen poor piggy killed." The speaker was Deerfoot, and the poor piggy alluded to was Baudoin, who passed a sad quarter of an hour, judging from the cries carried back to us by the breeze. The Zam/>a's sails were unfurled, the crew of the Haitien vessel gave three hurrahs, the French and Haitien flai*s were hoisted as a polite farewell, and, towards nine o'clock in the morning, we had lost sight of the schooner and the coast of Tortoise Island. A fortnight after this adventure, without any other incident worth notice occurring, except meeting with two sperm-whales, we were sailing in Campeachy Sound. At last we entered the harbour of Campeachy, where European ships come in quest of the precious wood so valu- able in dyeing. Campeachy did not escape the marauding attacks of the filibusters of Tortoise Island, who pillaged it twice ; it then had an extensive commerce in wax, which at the present day is much diminished. I was obliged to go to Tabasco in a coasting vessel, and the day following our arrival I reluctantly parted with my fellow- travell.;rs. But see what human greatness amounts to ! A letter from Doiia Mencia announcing that she and her daughter had arrived safely at Merida, informed me at the same time that M. Simeon de Monistrol was a clerk in a dry goods store, who had an opening offered him by one of the best houses in Merida, and that the banker, Mr. Martin, exercised the honour- able functions of head steward. I now understand our captain's sly smiles, who, knowing the social position of these two gentle- men, chuckled to himself at their pretensions to nobility, their grand disdainful airs, and their visible contempt for us. Years passed on. One evening, when at New Orleans, I was sitting in a small tavern near the harbour, where I had been taken to taste a plate of fried oysters, the national dish of the I 114 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. capital of Louisiana, when a sailor entered, and directly he saw me, came up to me. I had already recognized Lamhert. " How glad I am to see you again, sir," said he, holding out his hand to me. " How is it that I have happened to find you here ? " I answered his question, and motioned him to lake a seat near me. " Have you made your fortune?" I asked him. " No ; but I have earned a good deal of money ; for the Americans, who are in want of sailors, pay much higher wages than our shipowners. But my foolish freak made me, and still makes me, very wretched." " How is that ? " "For two years I have been dreadfully homesick. I would give anything to see France again, but I dare not show my face there. Nothing enlivens me, sir ; I feel low-spirited and have no appetite. The doctor on board says that I suffer from melancholy. I am home-sick, I know that, and I can't get over it." Lambert spoke in a dejected tone, and suddenly bursting into tears, refused the oysters and beer which I had ordered for him. I was deeply touched. He possessed excellent certificates from the American captains under whom he had served. So the following day I set to work. Seconded by the lieutenant of the French man-of-war stationed at New Orleans, I was fortunate enough to obtain pardon for the deserter with only a slight penalty. "By-the-by," I asked, whilst accompanying him to the vessel which was to take him back to his country, "do you know what has become of Deerfoot ? " " Little Jack ? He is dead, sir ; died from the yellow^ fever. Poor Jack ! it was his example that made a better man of me. For two years I have forwarded to his widowed mother a sum equal to what her son would have gained. I never thought to see you again, and I gave the poor woman the money you lent me." I pressed Lambert's hand, and saddened by the news I had TORTOISE' ISLAND. I'S just heard, returned on shore. The memory of the little cabin- boy had done me good as well as the rough sailor. Whenever I have anything to find fault with in my fellow-creatures, I think of the generous child, whose coffin is rocked beneath the waves, and for his sake 1 forgive or forget. S" A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. St. Thomas — The Reverend Mr. Smith — The waterspout at sea — A wish realized — Fears calmed. A FORTNIGHT after leaving Southampton, on the lyih of June, 1 86 — , the fine English steamer, Magdalena, sighted the Island of St. Thomas. This is about one of the longest passages that steamers make without calling anywhere : thus their supply of coals becomes exhausted. Passing between two hills crowned with forts, we were saluted by the garrison, composed of a score of Danish soldiers, and we found ourselves in a kind of chasm formed by perpendicular rocks. At the bottom of this chasm the houses of the town were built in five rows, in the shape of an amphitheatre. Europeans landing for the first time on American soil go into raptures at the sight of the stunted palm-trees which grow on this stony soil, barren enough in reality. St. Thomas Island is only about two leagues in extent, and possesses no other drinkable water than that which falls from the sky during the storms. It is, nevertheless, the centre of an important and extensive commerce, for the Danes have made it a free port. It is to this island that the merchants of St. Domingo, Cuba, Jamaica, Guadeloupe, Barbadoes, Trinidad, in a word, all the West Indian islands, come in search of European merchandise. Whilst the Magdaletia was taking in her supply of coal, I visited the town, which had been recently shaken by a violent earthquake. With the exception of the quay, which runs along A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. <»7 1 in front of the soa-shore, the streets of St. Thomas are only accessible by narrow flights of steps. Negroes and mulattoes make up the majority of the population in these streets, and it is a curious spectacle to meet at every step negresses dressed in the latest Parisian fashions, and affecting the manners of grand ladies. There are enough caricatures here to employ the pencil of a Cham or Daumier for years; in short, these ladies play with their fans, in imitation of Spanish graces, firmly believing themselves models of elegance. The day following our putting into port, the MagdaUna again continued her route, carrying with her several new passengers, among whom were a Spanish pilot who was to take us to the Havannahs, and a Protestant clergyman who was ^oing to Jamaica. I had dined with him the evening before, in the same hotel ; he spoke b'rench very well, and I was glad to have him as my cabin companion. It was daybreak at half-past five. The eastern sky was streaked with fiery red, and for a quarter of an hour it seemed as though we were sailing through a sea of blood. The atmo- sphere was heavy. Not a wave disturbed the surface of the slumbering sea ; not a breath of the wind which every morning freshened, in some degree, the burning soil of the Island of St. Thomas was to be felt. " We are now on the coasts where waterspouts are almost daily occurrences," said the Reverend Mr. Smith to me; "never- theless, this is the fifth time that I have sailed in these waters, and I have never once happened to see them disturbed by the least storm." "Neither have I," I replied; "and I consider myself all the more fortunate." " A waterspout at sea," resumed the pastor, " must be a marvellous spectacle ! One of my friends assured me yesterday that he had never left St. Thomas without seeing one in the distance. He will be disappointed to-day, for that is his ship following in our wake " The sun rose in gorgeous splendour in the clear azure sky ; the sea lay before us like a vast sheet of glass ; not a cloud to ii8 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. t I I he seen, not a breath of wind. The sails of a small schooner lying to our left, were hanging limp against the masts. I followed my companion to our cabin, to help him arrange his luggage, and then we were summoned to breakfast. All at once the wheels of ou~ steamer ceased turning. " They are going to sound," said the clergyman to me. " It is neither the place nor the time," I replied. " I am in- clined to think that there is something amiss with the engine." We hurried on deck. The sea was still calm, and there was no breeze. I saw the captain standing at the bows with his telescope in his hand, and the crew grouping round him. On examining the horizon from the starboard side, I thought I saw foam-crested waves, and a thin black column rising upwards to the sky. " What is it ? " I asked of a sailor. "A waterspout!" he replied, pointing to the wf^stern horizon. The clergyman seized my arm, and our eyes were r'veted on the thir. colunm, looking in the distance like a gigantic mast. A sudden squall fil ed the sails of the schooner, which, taken by surprise, lay on her side. She did not right herself until a sharp gust of wind covered our deck with a fine rain, carrying away some of our ragging. A low, rumbling sound was heard, and the column, which grew larger as it became more distinctly visible, rapidly approached us. The sea grew rough, and the deck was covered with flakes of foam. The schooner had reefed her sails. We saw her rising and sinking, leaning some- times to the right and sometimes to the left, and tossing ahout like a nutshell ; whilst the terrible column, now like two funnels placed end to end, came steadily onwards. All th^ steamer's :rew — ofiicers, sailors, engineers, stokers, stewards — were on aeck, whilst most of the passengc^s had taken refuge in their cabins, especially the ladies, whose sobs and frightened screams seemed to increase the horror of the terrible shipwreck to which we were apparently condemned. "Why do they not fire the guns to break down that pillar of water ? " asked the clergyman of a sailor. !S1 Jl... schooner 1 arrange lie. I am in- engine." here was with his im. On ht I saw upwards western r-veted ic mast. 1, taken until a airying heard, stit^ctly nd the er had some- : aKout e two okers, s had sobs of the ;d. pillar J 'A o > O Q A o H *- ^) A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. 119 " Our guns are good enough for signals, but they have no calibre to be of any use in this case," replied the latter. " Why don't we tack about ? " " What would be the good of that ? The waterspout would go as far in a minute as we could go in an hour." " But if it reaches us we are lost ! " " Yes, unless God comes to our help," replied the sailor in a serious tone. The clergyman turned pale, but repeated a psalm in a steady voice. Almost at the same moment we were lashed in the face, and almost blinded by a body of water which rose at a few cables' length from the Magdalena. The thin, barely formed column of water dashed against the steamer's poop, broke away part of the bulwarks, tumbled us over each other, and then continued its furious course. There were now two waterspouts in view. The sun hid itself; the sea and the sky were the colour of steel. We were in semi-darkness, deafened by the roar of the wind and the dashing of the billows. Suddenly the two funnels separated ; one sank down, whilst the other seemed to rise into the clouds. For two minutes, which seemed to us all like a century, we were plunged in black darkness and drenched by a deluge of water. For my part, I thought my last hour had come ; I seemed to feel the steamer sinking into the sea, and the waves closing over us. Light came back gradually, revealing our piteous condition as we stood on deck — livid, drenched, dishevelled, and awe-struck. " The danger is over," said the captain, " but, by Heaven, it was a narrow es'^ape ! Steer for the schooner," added he, addressing his lieutenant ; " I heard sounds of cracking which make me think some harm has happened to her." Our wheels were once again in i..otion, and we soon saw the little ship ; she had lost her masts, and her deck was battered in. Fortunately, the five men composing her crew were safe and sound. Our captain offered to tow the schooner as far as St. Thomas ; but a small steamer which had just left port speedily came up to offer her services. We continued our route, and an hour later were sailing on a sea as calm and smooth as a I20 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. mirror, reflecting the azure of the cloudless sky. Had it not been for the numerous damages of which the Magdaletia every- where bore traces, the terrible danger we had just escaped would have seemed like a horrible nightmare. "You are satisfied now, I hope," said I to the clergyman, who was imbibing his third glass of orange water. " More than that," replied he. " I am quite cured of my fancy for seeing a waterspout at sea. Has my hair turned white?" said he, taking off his hat and showing me his head. " No," said I, smiling; " your hair is as brown as ever." " Then it will never turn grey. Man feels very small before such workings of the Almighty." " You are right," I replied ; " but I confess I did not want to be brought so near a waterspout to be made conscious of my nothingness." During the remaining week of our voyage, Mr. Smith slept with one eye open. The sight of a small island, the masts of a ship, or a sperm-whale, would make him turn pale and uneasy ; everything seemed to him to foreshadow waterspouts and storms. When once at Havannah he recovered his spirits, but he assured me that he would return to New York by any other way than St. Thomas. He had seen a waterspout, and now sincerely hoped never to see another. CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. CHAFFER I. Havannah — Preliminary formulas — A good dinner — In search of a lodging — A restless night. The Island of Cuba, called The Queen of the Antilles since St. Domingo freed herself from French rule, is almost three hundred leagues in length, and scarcely forty in breadth. It is, with Porto Rica, the last strip of the immense empire possessed by the Spanish in the New World ; and even this magnificent jewel is ready to detach itself from the crown so long without a rival. I cannot think withouJ regret of this beautiful island, which I saw so peaceful and prosperous, now devastated by civil war, the most terrible of all scourges — blood flowing in the plains and valleys, in the forests, whose rich vegetation I admired so much ; the feet of horses, the wheels of cannon, disturbing the clear brooks where I have so often quenched my thirst. The first time I visited the Island of Cuba, it had just been devastated by one of those terrible hurricanes which from time to time sweep over the Antilles and threaten to submerge them in the waters of the Atlantic. But what are these disasters compared to those caused by man ? What, for instance, does a broken tree signify — damage which time will repair— compared with the ruin of the Tuilleries and the Hotel de Ville ? And then, however cruel . 122 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. { i and implacaljle the rebel Creoles showed themselves, they had at least an honourable end in view — the attainment of liberty. But let us leave this melancholy subject and enter the famous harbour of Havannah — a spectacle which greatly surprises Europeans who see it for the first time. The harbour of the cajiital of Cuba is only attainable by passing under the line of fire of a fort built on a rock, called Moors Fort. Vessels glide between two high, bare, desolate cliffs, and then, by a sharp turn to the left, come in view of the town embo.somed in a hollow. With the exception of the fort, boldly placed on a pile of barren rocks, there is nothing at first to strike the traveller's attention particularly. Two or three palm-trees with their tall, slender stems astonish European travellers ; but one can scarcely believe one s self in the country so far-famed for good cigars, or in the general entrepot of Spanish commerce, with her ancient colonies. There is little or no verdure ; the muddy water is covered with thousands of white sea-birds. The sky is of a pale blue, and a kind of vapour hovers over the town, of which one can only get a glimpse. Strong sea odours impregnate the air. One feels saddened by the dismal, severe aspect of the landscape. The atmosphere is almost burning. One thinks of yellow fever, which makes so many victims here. The cruel malady has well chosen its place of resort. 1 he American steamer in which I had made the voyage had hardly cast anchor when we were surrounded by numerous small boats. Nevertheless, not one of the people in them dared set foot on our vessel. They were obliged to wait for the govern- ment and police boats, which appeared sailing side by side. I had nothing to show the government officers. As for the police, they granted me permission to go about the town for forty-eight hours. If it pleased me to stay beyond this time in the capital cf the pearl of the Antilles, I should be obliged to apply to two officials who could prolong my leave. If the fulfilment of this formula were neglected, the police, horse or foot soldiers, had the right to take me by the collar and put me on board any of CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 123 the ships lying at anchor in the harbour, whether or no it was the one I had the intention of embarking in. What was the reason of these strict precautions ? Was I so formic^able tluat they thought my presence capable of turning the town upside down ? or had I such a suspicious appearance, that the poHce thought it prudent to warn me that they had an eye upon me? Nothing of the kind. I was only submitting to the letter of some old regulations which for centuries have closed the Spanish colonies against strangers. Thanks to friends at court, Humboldt was one of the first to obtain permission to visit Mexico and Peru, in 1803. One can understand the success of the stories and descriptions of the learned German. He had the good fortune to appear as though he had dis- covered the countries of which he spoke, and which stern laws had kept closed more hermetically than any town of China. After I had formally promised not to get intoxicated, to avoid all scandal, not to preach liberty to the slaves, and to respect the rights of the crown of Spain, they gave me a little square of yellow paper. I hailed a boat, whose proprietor was quite willing to take me in on the presentation of my passport ; and, ten minutes later, I landed on a quay, built on piles— a construction as ugly as it was primitive. It was on the 24th of December, 1863, Christmas Eve, that I set foot, for the first time, on the soil of the town founded, in 151 1, by Diego Velasquez. As soon as I entered the narrow, bad-smelling, ill-kept streets, I was almost stifled by a sickening odour, something like the emanations from dried codfish, olive oil, heavy Cata- logna wine, and I do not know what else, which make a Spaniard's mouth water, and sicken a Frenchman. I thought that the houses had a holiday aspect ; and I learnt that for a week the inhabitants of Puerto-Principe, Santiago, Fermando de Jagua, Nuevitas, Santa Maria, and Matauzas, had made the metropolis their resort, and that to find a room at an hotel was a difficult matter. I had the address of a French hotel given me, and at once made my way thither. 124 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The hotel, situated in the modern promenade of Tacon, was clean and lively. VVliilst waiting for dinner, I stood at the door ; and about five o'clock, when the sun was disap- pearing behind Punta Fort, I saw all the fashionable world pass before me. Now the fashionable world of Havannah — I speak from what I saw — exactly resembles that of London or Paris. The same coats for the me", the same style of dress for the women ; head-drjsses, nats, canes, boots, eye-glasses, all come from Paris. Unfortunately, the public watering-cart is an unknown luxury in this dusty Cuban city, it was the month of Decem- ber, and the heat was as great as in July with us ; dust and perspiration mingling on the faces of the fair sex, obliged them to make a speedy letreat. One of the peculiarities of Havannah is the volanta — a kind of cab drawn by two mules, the wheels of which, before and behind, are ornamented with silver, and are of the same height as the hood of the vehicle. On one of the mules sits a negro, smartly dressed as a postillion, with gold lace, and prouder than Artaban of his grand attire. Two or three young women, with flowers in their hair, take their places in the carriage ; the postillion cracks his whip, and away they go, jolting over the uneven pavement of the town. After having been a dozen times round the promenade, the strange equipage brings the indolent Creoles back to their houses. It is only in this way, or when going to the theatre, that the fair sex of Havannah is visible. The rare beauties that one ruiis against in the stix-ets, are only small tradespeople or servants. Enlivened by watching this marvellous pfomenade, after having conscientiousl ' remarked that t\ere was no lack of beauty among the women, and that lar^e, dark, expressive eyes are as common m Havannah ar, Mexico, I determined to have my dinner. My coi'ntryman knew hov; to manage things well, and my dinner, frugal enough, only cost me about two pounds. For this I had neither truffles, blackbirds, nor a plump ortolan ; not even a pheasant. Some chicken, a bottle of claret, a salad, which I was told was something excellent, was all that I got for CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 125 my money. At dessert, they offered me strawberries. Straw- berries in the month of December ! It was a tempting dish, and I eagerly accepted it. In about five minutes they trium- phantly brought me some strawberries preserved in syrup. Judge of my deception ! These strawberries, which came from Europe, added another ten shillings to my bill ; and never, I think, did I pay more for my dinner than on that day. Living is expensive in all tropical countries ; but my country- man looked sharp after his own interests, and did not treat me altogether as a friend. I thought it useless to exclaim against the exorbitant price of the chicken and salad, ar ' contented myself with changing my quarters. Four years later I was again in Havannah, and allowed myself to be drawn into the coquettish French hotel. It cost me three pounds this time. I suppose one can hardly dine there now under five pounds ; decidedly a rather expensive repast. Late in the evening I went to the principal square, where the governor's palace is situated, and entered one of the famous restaurants, which are the luxuries of Havannah. There is not a sweet nor a refreshing drink that these skilful natives do not know how to prepare ; their restaurants surpass anything of the kind to be found in Paris or London, and the coffee, ices, and liqueurs are of the best quality. But I ought to say something about Christmas Day ; and if I do not do so at once, I shall lose myself— as I am rather in the habit of doing — in details, which may be of no interest to any one except myself. I had dined, but did not feel any inclination to spend the night in the open air, and I had convinced myself, by investi- gation, that all the hotels, even the small inns, were crowded. Whilst I was lingering over a delicious ice-cream, and reflecting how I was to get out of my difficulty, some one touched me on the shoulder, and I found myself face to face with a Mexican gentleman of my acquaintance. We directly began a tcteni- tete, talking of Vera-Cruz, Puebla, and Mexico. I told my friend of my unsuccessful attempts to find a lodging, and of my unwillingness to return to the steamer, which was taking in 'ler supply of coal. He offered to have a bed made up for me 126 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. , i , in his own apartments, and we set out for them together. An hour later, a sofa was arranji^ed for me, and I took possession of a small sitting room on the ground floor, with windows looking out into the street. About midnight, feeling grateful to Providence, I had fallen asleep, when I was suddenly aroused with a start. All the bells in the town began to ring at once. They were silent at last ; but a distant rumbling sound still kept me awake. It was like the noise of an infuriated crowd. All the dogs in the neighbourhood began to bark. The noise came nearer; there was no longer any doubt but that it was a wild, disorderly, noisy rabble. They yelled and screamed in a most unearthly manner. I opened one of the windows ; and by the light of torches, carried by frightful- looking vixens, I saw a disorderly band of negroes and negresses, running, quarrelling, and making a din with tin kettles, in lieu of tambourines. Never had I heard such a frightful uproar. What was the meaning of it ? Had the slaves revolted ? Several hundred individuals had passed before me, and in countries where slavery reigns, they would hardly allow the African race to make such an uproar at such an unseasonable hour. The barking of the dogs died away after a while, and gradually all was silent again, and I could only hear faint and far-off sounds. I had looked up and down the street, and was surprised at seeing no window opened ; there was not even a sound in the house where I was lodging. But the noise of revelry again drew near, and another band of negroes, running in the same direction as the others, passed down the street, making more noise if possible. Reports of fire-arms were heard in the distance, and put an end to my doubts— the negroes had revolted. I opened my door, which led into a passage, to make some inquiries as to the meaning of the riot, when a fine mas- tiff, which had sniffed at me the evening before with a good deal of curiosity, now bounded forwards, and 1 had only just time to shut my door again, and save myself from his rough • embrace. The animal growled, scratched at the door, and whined ; perhaps he did not want to do me any harm, and CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 127 street, heard es had make 2 inas- d deal time rough and and there was only a misunderstanding between us. Neverthe- less, I thought it prudent not to open the door; and so there I was a prisoner. All was once more silent. A world of ideas filled my brain. The garrison was numerous; but there were twenty five thou- sand slaves and as many mulattoes in the town ; and the white people, to which party I had the honour of belonging, seemed to me to be in a rather critical position. 1 lay down again, imagining that the governor's palace was being pulled down ; but soon fatigue overcame my fears, and I fell asleep. A sauce- pan suddenly rattled against the iron bars of my window, made me spring up with a jump. I heard voices and laughter. A woman was striking a tin kettle and ten negroes were dancing round her, whilst the one who was making use of the bars of my window, tried to rattle them in time, as though he were playing on a guitar. " Holloa there ! " cried I to the musician ; " what on earth is the meaning of this uproar ? " He slunk off rather amazed, and turning up the whites of his large eyes, answered triumphantly — "Me free!" Although a sworn enemy to slavery, I felt a shudder run through me at this reply. How many lives had not this liberty already cost, and how many more might still fall victims to the treacherous slaves of Havannah ! " Has much harm been done ? ' I ventured to ask the musician, who was rattling on my window-bars with renewed energy. His eyes opened wide, and, instead of answering, he sang a song, the words of which were quite incomprehensible to me. " Where is the governor ? " I again asked. "He asleep." Asleep ! 7'hat is to say, dead ; undoubtedly massacred in his sleep. I went back to my sofa. What could be the reason of this strange riot, and how was it the soldiers of the garrison had made so little resistance? There were several men-of-war lying at anchor ; Moor's Fort and the fort of the Peak con- 128 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. tained a large body of troops. Were they waiting for daylight to fire on the town ? But no ; the rebels must have made themselves masters of these places first of all. What a fearful catastrophe ! Towards four o'clock, the noise having almost ceased, I again yielded to fatigue and fell into a troubled sleep, dreaming of the black Haitien heroes, Dessalines, and 'I'ous- saint-Louverture. When I awoke it was broad daylight. I ran to the window and saw groups of negroes everywhere ; not one white man among them. I drew back again and mournfully proceeded with my toilet ; then I cautiously opened the door— the mastiff had been chained up — and a little negress carrying a tray cried out to me — " Make haste, sir : they are at breakfast." I went towards the end of the corridor, which, ornamented with plants, served as a dining-room. Four ladies, a priest, and my Mexican friend were quietly breakfasting together, waited on by a fat negro, who at once attended to me. " Have you been able to sleep ? " my friend asked me. " A little towards daybreak, I confess it to my shame. But tell me quickly, what is the cause of this riot ? " " The slaves are free. Did you not know it ? " The Mexican, an enthusiastic abolitionist, and from his bronzed skin partly allied to the conquerors, told me this news in a careless tone. " What have we to fear ? " I asked. " Nothing. However, it will be prudent not to show your- self much in the streets, in order to avoid insults, for brandy loosens the tongue." " Are there many people killed ? " " 'J'hree at present ; there will be more to-morrow. Last year there were eight." " What ! was there an attempt at rebellion last year?" They all stared at me with such surprise, and I asked my question with such manifest astonishment, that it was clear there was a misunderstanding between us. Thus, getting an explanation, I learnt that, in observance of CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 129 an ancient custom, the slaves of Havannah have one day in the year of perfect liberty, and that hohday is Christmas Day. Notwithstanding the warnings I had of the imprudence of venturing into the streets, especially of mingling with the slaves, nothing could keep me from trying to get a glimpse of their curious proceedings. They predicted a thousand accidents which would ha|)|)en to me; I should he obliged to take thumps and knocks without complaining, or having the right to revenge myself I was determined to run all risks, and directly after breakfast I set out, following a troup of negroes, who, dressed in their masters' cast-off clothes, were dancing and singing as they went along. CHAPTER II. Fraternity — Sons and daughters of kings — Abuse of saffron — A negro ball. It was a splendid day, the heat almost unbearable, and one had to think twice to believe that it was the month of December. All the large warehouses and shops were closed, with the exception of the wine-merchants, cigar shops, and especially the spirit stores, which seemed to be doing an active business. Negroes, mulattoes, and quadroons, dressed in their finest clothes, were strutting about the streets and noisily applaud- ing the masqueraders. Having reached a large open square, my party suddenly formed a ring, in which I was enclosed. I was jostled, pushed about, and shaken, but I took it all good-naturedly. A tall negro, dressed in very wide pantaloons, and a coat too small for him, all at once began a dance, which, with its fantastic steps, grimaces, extraordinary leaps, and contortions, I cannot pre- tend to describe. The dancer sang an African song, whilst some of his companions joined in the chorus. Never did a more discordant, guttural, disagreeable hubbub torture human ears ; unfortunately, mine were destined to hear a good deal of the same thing. K 130 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. They stared and pointed at me. I was an intruder. Two young men of a remarkably black skin, more shiny than the best polished leather, came skipping up to me. They were armed with formidable-looking clubs, and began brandishing them in a most uncomfortable manner over my head. The skill of the two cudgel players was indisputable, but they came so close to me that I began to feel uneasy. I thought that perhaps these fine black fellows, whilst apparently only playing, might be tempted to caress European shoulders with their cudgels, and taking advantage of my good nature, might pay off some of the blows they had received from the white people. As I thought it prudent to beat a retreat, I wished to do so as honourably as possible, and I offered the cudgel players some refreshment. My politeness was accepted without the slightest hesitation, and the clubs, ceasing their evolutions round my head, carne down roughly but pacifically to the ground. Here was I now walking arm in arm towards a spirit store with two wretched slaves, and followed by the band whom I had at first mingled with. At Havannah as well as New Orleans, to associate with a negro is at once to shut all doors of polite society against one. I had perhaps chosen my new acquaintances rather thought- lessly ; but I could never accustom myself to despise coloured men, and I could mention more than one who, in intelligence, morality, and goodness, is far superior to many white men. I had only to pass through Havannah, so it mattered little com- promising myself with the race of Ham, and I bravely entered the spirit store. It was kept by a Catalonian, who, seeing my followers, thought at first that I was a victim of the masqueraders, and ordered them to leave me alone. I hastened to inform him that they were my friends, and that I had brought them there. " Take care," said he to me ; " these familiarities may lead you into serious trouble." " Do you think these poor creatures are capable of ill-treating me?" is ■'■ tes*^™ ier. Two than the ^hey were andishing ad. The :hey came ►ught that f playing, nth their night pay e people, do so as 'ers some sh'ghtest 3und my i. Here with two d at first i with a nst one. thought- :oIoured ligence, inen. I le corn- entered thought ordered id that ly lead reating C/) in u o J4 CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 131 "They will not scruple to take advantage of any oppor- tunities you may afford them. And that is not all. The police are on the watch, without appearing to he so ; they may make you account to-morrow for the scandals which you have caused, and you will be punished for having exposed yourself to the outrages of the coloured people." I remembered the oaths which I had taken in exchange for my passport, and as my proceedings were not in contradiction to any of my promises, I begged the Catalonian to have my guests attended to. The latter were unanimous in asking for brandy, the only refreshing drink they cared for ; but my two guests multiplied in some miraculous way, and I had a con- siderable amount to pay the wine-shop keeper. In exchange for my hospitality, I received the most intimate confidences ; the women especially were open-hearted. I thought I was condescending, and yet here I was surrounded by noble lords, unfortunate princesses, the sons and daughters of kings. The queens, of the number of three, were less resigned than the men at the loss of their thrones ; and I only succeeded in drying their tears by redoubling their refreshment. All that these poor creatures told me in their broken language might be true. It was beyond doubt that they had been brutally torn from their cabins, from their native land, and their friends, and had been embarked by force, and carried to Cuba, the name of which they had never even heard, there to be sold as vile cattle. They comforted themselves with the hope of some day returning to their homes, a consoling illusion which I was careful not to dissipate. The majority of my new friends were negroes born in Havannah. They also dreamed of liberty, but they did not complain of their masters, and the invisible chain which bound them to a white man and a dwelling did not seem to weigh very heavily upon them. At the invitation of the shopkeeper, who told me that it would be unwise to go on walking under the burning sun, I rested in his shop ; and my companions, resuming their fantastic dances, continued their way. My host sold grocery and woollen goods, as well as wine 132 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. and spirits ; and I watched the customers, from the slave who had become an important housekeeper, down to the httle negro girl. These were the aristocratic negroes, who looked down upon the masquerading troops in the streets. From time to time a coquettish mulatto would come into the shop, who, although herself a slave, spoke of the negroes with proud disdain, and ranked herself undoubtedly with the white people. Workmen, tradespeople, masons, and carpenters, came one after another and sat down in the shop. They belonged to a master, who for a certain sum of money allowed them to follow their own occupations, and being skilful workmen, they often succeed in getting a ransom. I spent nearly three hours here looking on, listening and convincing myself of the sad truth, that however distressing the material condition of the slaves may be, it is a thousand times better than that of workmen in our large cities. But the subjects of slavery and pauperism are far too serious to be treated lightly. I will therefore continue my walk. Wherever I went through the town, I encountered the same noisy masquerades. I came unexpectedly upon a fair, and the grand display of paintings which struck my eye told me \:hat France had not the exclusive monoply of bearded women, skeleton men, and learned hares, still less of Hercules and somnambulists. I entered one of the largest booths, where young acrobats were executing their performances with marvel- lous agility. Five of them, perched on balls, undertook a most amusing race, performing a series of perilous jumps ; in fact, monkeys could not have done it better. I noticed that, with very few exceptions, all the shops in the fair were under the patronage of Maria de Lao, who must have been a celebrity, for each of the establishments declared them- selves her true and only successor. I questioned successively a negro, a mulatto, a Creole, a quadroon, and finally a European about this remarkable divinity, and each time they laughed in my face, thinking that I was jesting. Maria de Lao is so well known in Havannah, that I could not succeed in finding out who she was. CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. ^ii I determined to consult a somnambulist, and I asked the young person who went to sleep for my benefit, to give me some information about the celebrated Maria^ whose portrait, full length and vignette, was everywhere to be seen. My question awakened the somnambulist as though I had fired a pistol close to her ear ; that is to say, she started up. l hey looked at me suspiciously, refused my money, and I even think the showman mildly swore at me. An inquisitive person in Paris or London, who asked a passer-by for the history of Punch and Judy, would most likely meet with the same success as I did. About five o'clock, tired of seeing the negroes romping about in their grotesque clothing, of swallowing dust, and being deafened by the screeching and noise, I went in search of an Havannah restaurant. I wanted to taste the cookery of Cuba in all its purity. The dining-room which I entered was neither luxuriously nor meanly furnished, neither clean nor dirty ; and the persons whom I saw round the tables looked like small tradespeople or merchants' clerks. They gave me a bill of fare, which I studied attentively, and on which, among ordinary dishes, figured several which I did not know. I began by asking for a soup, which appeared to me to be a queer combination of peas, tomatoes, rice, and pumpkins, with very little broth. This mixture, if well pounded, would have been very good, had the cook been less prodigal with the saffron. After this they brought me vegetable-marrows, dressed with cayenne pepper, which was enough to set one's mouth on fire. I managed to demolish it, thanks to the ten years' long and painful apprenticeship 1 had gone through in the Spanish colonies. These marrows, moderately spiced, would be very much appre- ciated in Europe, but the saffron might well be dispensed with. A slice of fillet of beef, garnished with rancid bacon, an imi- tation of the French fricandciu, was brought to me. I allowed m)self to be influenced in partaking of this dish. Seeing me steadily consulting the bill of fare, my opposite neighbour said to me — Take :jome fillet ; it is very good." u i 11 134 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. And I asked for some fillet. I do not deny that rancid bacon may bean excellent thing, but I never eat it without being absolutely forced to do so. That A^hich was brought to me was so far gone, that I was obliged to draw myself up to prevent making a grimace when swallowing it. Not wishing to look like a simpleton before the waiter, nor to tacitly declare that my obliging neighbour had detestable taste, by sending back my slice of meat untouched, I ordered a hot sauce, which I thought might neutralize the distasteful qualities of the bacon ; but this only added fire to my already burning mouth and throat. Having sufficiently hacked my slice of beef for the sake of appearances, I gave up all further attempts it swallowing it, and contented myself with a wing of chicken. I thought I was safe in ordering this simple course. Alas ! the chicken was placed on a dish of rice, cooked, I firmly believe, in a saffron- box. I dared not ask for a salad ; the Cubans would be sure to flavour it with saffron oil. I set out in search of a cafe, and the comforting beverage soon made me forget the torture I had suffered at dinner. At dusk I went towards ihe promenade, which I found deserted, so .1 turned hap-hazard into ill-lighted streets crowded with negroes. All trace of pavement had disappeared, heaps of refuse barred my way, and the houses were low, dirty, and squalid-looking. I heard singing in the distance, mingling with the noise of a guitar and drum, and I soon came out into a street where a series of public balls were taking place. I was the only European anywhere visible. Elbowing my way and being jostled about, I gradua'ly succeeded in reaching a low room, dimly lighted by two smoky lamps. A young negress was performing an epileptic dance with frenzied gesticulations. Five or six other negroes, seized with the same mad fit, were noisily shaking leathern bags filled with shells and pieces of broken bottles, whilst another was beating a tambourine without any regard to time. The dancing- girl, at last exhausted and foaming at the mouth, fell fainting on the ground. They rolled her in a blanket and carried her away, whilst one of her companions took her place, and whirled CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. U5 about in the same mad fashion. Suddenly, without any warning, I was gently seized, lifted up, and carried out of this dreadful den. I had unduly entered a private party. I was conscious of my offence, and at once went off, without offering the slightest resistance. The miserable hole I had just been excluded from was one of the lowest dancing-rooms ; and I soon came to another, larger, better lighted, and filled with better-dressed people. Two negroes, armed with cudgels, and wearing immense white neck- ties, stood like black marble caryatides at the door of the establishment. Emboldened by the ceremonial neckties, I drew near; but the two terrible clubs barred my passage. I spoke to the two Cerberuses, who only showed their white teeth, and gave me a fine example of incorruptibility by pocketing the money I offered them. Whilst they were explaining to me in remarkable Spanish, and with perfect Castillian courtesy, that it was a private party, and that no white man, even though he were their friend, as I pretended to be, was allowed to interfere with them, I saw about a dozen negroes, and as many negresses, dancing, twirling, and hopping to the sound of music even more discordant and primitive than the first. Having exhausted my arguments, and seeing that I was looking on at the spectacle which I had no right to do, the two negroes began to blandish their clubs over my head, which dangerous familiarity I had already experienced in the morning. I retired, thinking it unwise to risk further parley with these black door- keepers, and I had the consolation of seeing them refuse admittance to a mulatto who they thought was not well enough dressed. Are there, then, social distinctions among slaves? Man is born a despot. • I am obstinate, and I succeeded in squeezing among a crowd through the door of another mixed establishment. The bambula were performing their escapades, whilst at the same time a very well-executed square dance was going on ; the different music made a frightful discord, which did not seem to disturb the dancers in the least. Sometimes the whole room joined in the chorus of a song in honour of Maria de Lao. I had found 136 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I'i such a comfortable place in a dark corner, that I ventun 'I to sit down, and was innocently enjoying the forbidden fruit, ,'hen I saw two soldiers, led by a mulatto, making their way up to me. The soldiers were no mere lookers-on, for they wt;^'^ th( "r muskets, the butt-ends of which came down sliarply at iny feet. "Yoi? lave no business here," said cue ot them to mc ; foil ' < us. if you please." ii'v; '^lusic had ceased, the dancers were interrupted, and eviiv one WIS staring at us. I got up at once. "Am 1 committing any infraction of the laws of the country?" I asked. "Yes," replied the soldier; "and the people by whom we are surrounded, and with whom you are interfering, have the right to turn you out as roughly as they like." " I am a stranger, senor, and I did not know I vis doing any harm." In the street I found a police-sergeant, who asked for my name ; instead of which, I showed him my passport. " What mad spirit could have possessed you to go into such a wasp's nest ? " said the under-ofificer to me. " People of your class do not usually come into these quarters, where you are not safe even in daylight." I explained, as well as I could, that I liked to see everything in the countries I visited, high as well as low life. "You may thank God that you are still alive," said the sergeant to me ; " and remember that he who goes in search of wool often gets shorn. Where do you want us to take you?" "It is not worth while troubling you, sir; I am going back on board the steamer in which I came here, and which leaves to-morrow." At a sign from their principal, five or six soldiers surrounded me, obliging me to walk between them. The sergeant gave me no more answers to my questions, and even imposed silence on me. I was a prisoner, but, strong in my innocence, was preparing the explanation of my actions, to give the officer before whom they might take me. We went through the town, more deserted and silent as we ''^ CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 137 approached the aristocratic parts, replying to the qin 7>. ' of the sentinels whom we met. On reaching the harhoiir, .< ►. oatinan was hailcu, and received an order to take me lO the ship to wh'ch I belonged. The sergeant bowed politely to me, wished me adieu, and, turning back with his men, was soon out of sight, whilst I was carried back to the Solent. I stood gazing for half an hour on the sleeping town, from which rose a subdued murmur of sounds. The palm-trees stood out clear against the star-lit sky. and now and then the sound of a guitar, wafted over the wa r, .uck my ear. The hour, announced by the deep-toned bel; of the clock tower, was hailed by the sentinels on thf 'or' > witn a garde a vous, which, repeated from distance to distan ., made one think of customs long gone by. In short, Hav ■•nah,with its commerce, pleasures, activity, luxury, and vices, ».OcJd be a most agreeable town were it not for the terrible yellow fever which is constantly throwing a veil of mourning over the whole island. The following day, when I went up on deck, we were out of the channel, and the town was already invisible. Black vultures, of a smaller species t'lan those of Mexico, were hovering over the bay, and the cannons of fort de/ Mora shone in the sun- light. On a promontory to the right, might be seen a mansion shaded by palm-trees, a magnificent building, which was soon to be destroyed by a formidable hurricane. All the morning we were continually passing Spanish, American, and English vessels, on their way to Havannah, By breakfast time the island was lost in a mist, and my adventures of the preceding day seemed to me like a dream. FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. CHAPTER I. Departure from Havannah — The slavery question — The Gulf Stream — The Mississippi — A kidnapping business. Although Havannah is but a commercial town, with narrow, winding, and dirty streets, the tourist, after a month's sojourn here, does not leave without regret. By what secret ties the capital of Cuba attaches itself thus to the hearts of its visitors is a question I cannot pretend to answer. I must confess, however, that it was not without a real feeling of regret that on the loth of April, i86 — , leaving the Pearl of the Antilles for the second time, I went on board the American steamer bound for New Orleans. The sun set just as the anchor, yielding to the efforts of the capstan, was heaved to its place on the deck of the Texas ^ and restored her to liberty. Before long, the screw, beating the stagnant water of the bay, disturbed the peace of thousands of viedusce, whose soft, whitish, transparent bodies made such strange arabesques on the waves. I gave a last look at Moor's Fort, then I turned towards the ocean, or rather the Gulf of Mexico, which at this moment, gilded by the last rays of the magnificent sunset, looked like a fiery furnace. One of my fellow-travellers. General Dumont, came up quietly and placed his hand on my shoulder. " You are very thoughtful," said he, " and yet you do not leave any friends or relations at Havannah." "True, general; but it is ten years since I came here for the tiSm».,Vi^.m.mkWm i- i agii > ' Mi "'f' i» * 'ion of 'e that !d the s, and hmen keep, r'ord," peron •ment ered, " All the shores we can see appear to me very l)arren." "They are, being marshy and covered with shifting islands ; for the Mississippi diverges very much from its course before falling into the sea." " Is that another of its superior (lualities?" " Not for sailors, at any rate ; they often mistake its course, to the great damage of their ships. Vou are undoul)tedly aware that, until 1832, the i\Iississip|)i was thought to take its rise in Lake Cass ; in reality, it rises in Itacca Lake, as I proved myself ten years ago. The majestic sheet ot" water which you see here swollen by affluents, such as the Missouri, the Ar- kansas, the Ohio, the Red River, and the Illinois — I mention the most important — is twenty feet wide where it issues from Lake Itacca." We were constantly passing ships of all nations, with their flags floating from the masts, making for the open sea, there to disperse in a hundred different directions. When night came we were still about fifty miles from New Orleans, and our captain paced the deck with an uneasy look. The heat was overpower- ing ; sharp gusts of wind quickly lashed the yellow water of the river into heaving billows, and the sky was gradually covered with black storm-clouds. Suddenly the Texas, veering round, entered a bay in which were two schooners, and a cry of con- sternation escaped from the passengers when they heard the anchor-chains unwound, and knew that they were condemned to be stationary until the morrow. No one expected me at New Orleans, so I placidly accepted the turn in events which would delay our arrival by twenty-four hours. My travelling companions were less complacent. The general fumed away, and offered to take the direction of the steamer through the darkness ; a jiroposilion which was not even listened to. He asked for a boat, talked of swimming to land; but finding it all of no avail, he ordered a bottle of Madeira and entered into a game of whist, which allowed him to vent his wrath on his unfortunate |)artner. About nine o'clock I was driven from the upper deck by a fovmidable deluge. The sky seemed literally dissolvinr into L i: i-i 144 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. water. The air was full of ominous sounds ; angry gusts of wind mingled with the continuous surf of the waves. Flashes of lightning almost blinded us, and at short intervals the ma- jestic voice of the thunder drowned all other sounds. When I entered the grand saloon, I was dazzled by the brilliant lights ; the passengers were playing, talking, working, and reading. The contrast between this peaceful scene and the fury of the elements outside was singular enough. Towards midnight I again ventured on deck. The thunder was rumbling in the distance, the wind had sunk, but it was still raining heavily. I went back to my cabin, and did not get to sleep before two o'clock. I awoke with a start. "Get up, get up, you lazy fellow," cried the general, cheerily; " in an hour we shall be in sight of the capital of Louisiana." I rubbed my eyes. The sun was gilding the gla.ss of my small port-hole. "Now then," cried the general again, "you need not be afraid of putting on your best things. You are going to land in a populous city, endowed with a bishopric, a court of justice, two theatres, and a school of medicine . . . ." "And a slave-market," I interrupted, smiling. " Yes," replied my friend, not in the least disconcerted ; "one of those markets not to be found in your European cities, where the poor masters find themselves at the mercy of inquisi- tive, gossiping, insolent servants, who, if the least thing is said to them that they do not like, at once leave their employer, whilst he innocently thinks that it is the wages he pays that really gives him the right to command. Here, in less than an hour, you can be in possession of a valet, who , . . . But enough of that now ; we will talk about it again at my house, over a bottle of Bordeaux, si'ch as you could not drink, even at Bordeaux." I found the deck of the steamer already crowded with visitors. The great Secession War was about to break out, and the last news from Europe or Washington was being com- mented on. I had scarcely taken one look at the great city I was about to visit for the first time, when the general, giving me a gentle push, sent me back to my cabin. u. FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 145 " When do you mean to have your luggage brought up ? " said he. " Have you forgotten that you are to be my guest for a week, and that we must be on the way to Messangere in an hour's time ? " I exclaimed against this. I could not pass New Orleans before, as it were, setting foot there. I had, besides, several things to buy, and four letters to leave at different houses. " That is not of the least consequence to me," replied the general, with undisturbed tranquillity. " You can make your purchaser next week ; and as for your letters, a servant will take them with a note from you which you will date from Messangere ; for you will sleep there to-night as true as my name is Dumont." "But . . . ." " Silence in the ranks ! I will show you an hotel where you can leave your heavier luggage. In an hour's time — I am impatient to see my daughter, and it is your duty to do all you can to assist me — in an hour's time, then, I shall be at your hotel with a carriage, and at twelve o'clock precisely we shall be at Messangere. I have made up my mind for that." " But once again . . . ." " What is the good of useless observation ? It is all perfectly understood." And so it was. An hour later I was sitting beside the general in a fly which was taking us to his house. There I was to see a miracle of Creole beauty. Miss Arabella I^umont, and a well of science, bearing the name of Angelina ; and I was assured that I should speedily be convinced that the best condition in life is that of a slave, when one cannot be master. 146 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. CHAPTER II. Departure for Messangere — The unfortunate Thomas — The danger of letting a dress get wet — A New Yorkist, and a native of Louisiana — A curious way of getting a husband. M t For a quarter of an hour we followed a dusty, ill-kept road, from time to time meeting with heavy waggons, or bands of negroes bden with burdens. These poor people, scantily clad, touched their hats to us as we passed, which politeness I returned. My companion, with a cigar in his mouth, watched me do so with an amused look. " I ought to tell you," said he at last, " that it is not the custom here to raise your hat when you say ' good-day ' to a negro." " I have always been of the opinion that one man is as good as another, whatever is the colour of his skin or his condition in life. Thus, contrary to the rules of eti(]uette, perhaps, I always return the bows of servants of the houses I visit. I should be sorry to think that although these jjeople are slaves, they are more polite than I am." " That fine speech is not your own ; it comes from one of the governors of India, whose name I have forgotten," said the general, smiling. " I confess it does ; but I think like this governor, and, being unable to Gay anything better, I repeat his words." " For goodness' sake, do leave your hat alone ! " said the general to me, seizing my hand just as I was going to bow again. " Although 1 know how precious you hold your illusions," added he, "just notice that these people are not touching their hats to you anv more than they are to me." " Arc they paying this homage to your fly, or to your horses ? " " No', more to one than the other. Oh, short-sighted frenchman ! They are wishing our coachman good-day, that is all." FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 147 I hit my lips. My host was right, as I convinced myself with a little attention. Accustomed as I wis to the polite courtesy of the peasants of the old Spanish colonies, there was a natural excuse for my mistake. I was the first to laugh at my blunder, and I promised to be more careful in future to whom I raised my hat. The rich vegetation of Mexico was too vividly impressed on my mind for me to chow as much surprise at the beauty of the surrounding country as my companion expected. The plants, bushes, and trees which I had seen growing in wild luxuriance were here trimmed, fenced in, and cultivated. But, as I have since convinced myself, one ought no more to judge of Louisiana from New Orleans than of Mexico from the barren, sandy, desolate coast around Vera-Cruz. We skirted the border of a wood, and then turned into a cross road, seamed with deep ruts, hardly wide enough to allow our carriage to pass. After half an hour of rough jolting, our vehicle suddenly stopped short. " What has happened ? " askc J the general of our coachman. "It is impossible to go on, sir." We alighted. A small cart was lying across the road sur- rounded with cases, bales, and p reels, and an old unharnessed horse was contemplating the d ister with a melancholy eye, whilst he solemnly munched a juthful of grass. " Ah, Thomas ! poor Thomas ! " said a plaintive voice near us. My companion ran towards it negro, who, seated on the ground, his face hidden be. veen his hands, was repeating, in tones of deepest despair — " Ah, Thomas ! poor Thomas ! unlucky Thomas ! " " Are you hurt ?" asked the general. " No," replied Thomas energetically. " No, I am not hurt. The truth is, sir, if you must V^ ^w, the horse has been drinking, the cart has been drinking, the parcels have been drinking — ■ even the small ones — and they could not hold themselves up." " Get up." The thing was easier said than done, seeing that Thomas ^v\ \'^:. I 1 W. I il II 148 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. was in exactly the same condition as the cart and the packets : he had been drinking, and could not hold himself up. " Plague take the drink ! " cried the general. " Here, all through this booby, I shall be delayed getting home for an hour." "You need not have asked me for the truth," murnmred Thomas. " Come along, blockhead that you are ; try, at least, to help us. It was no slight work, setting up the cart and then piling in it the cases, parcels, and small barrel of brandy, the contents of which, in escaping, had wetted the parcels, the road, and above all, Thomas' throat. Fortunately, we were assisted in our work by two negroes who were passing by. As to " poor Thomas," he sat down and calmly watched us, declaring all the time that our efforts were useless, seeing that as the cart and parcels were quite tipsy, they would only roll over again, as soon as they were put up. For a trifle, the two negroes who had heli)ed us undertook to take Thomas to his place of destination, and we were once more driving along the narrow road. During the whole of this scene I had admired the general's goodness and patience ; and I told him so. " To be angry with a drunken man would be to show your- self as senseless as he is," replied my companion. "How many lashes will the unfortunate Thomas get?" I asked. " His escapade will doubtless cost him dearly," " That depends on his general conduct, and his master's character ; however, as I have before told you, we do not walk about here slashing our whips from right to left, as people in Europe seem to think. There are laws to protect the negroes ; and the slave unjustly treated by a brutal master, can oblige the latter to sell him." " Is it true, that it is forbidden to teach these poor wretches to read ? " " It is. But tell me, do all the peasants and workpeople in France know how to read ? " Sl.^ W' \'\ c\\ n( tli FROM HAVANNAII TO NEW ORLEANS. 149 "No; but they art: free." "So be it. 1 suppose their liberty feeds them when they have no work to do, and takes care of them when they arc ill, does it not? Hut stay ; do not let us discuss this matter. We are looking at it from an opj)()site point of view, and have no chance of coming to an understanding. To you Europeans, the negro is a man ; in our eye.s, he is only a child — a child whose intelligence will never develop, do what you may. If you can bring forward an exception, I shall answer you that it confirms the rule, and we shall have gone as far into the matter on our arrival as when we set out." We had left ihe narrow road and were crossing an undulating common interspersed with clumps of mimosas. Before long houses bordered the roadside ; and entering a fine avenue of |)lane trees, we drove up before the door of an elegant house, built on a slight eminence, its windows commanding a good view of the surrounding neighbourhood. Five or six negroes, and as many negresses, surrounded our carriage. The general was not expected, and his servants kissed his hand with every demonstration of delight, whilst three fine greyhounds jumped and gambolled around their master. "Where is Miss Arabella?" asked the general eagerly. " In the garden, sir," ansvered a tall negro, dressed in white clothes, as though to set off the ebony of his skin to greater advantage. '' Come," said the general, " I am going to introduce you to the queen of my little kingdom." I followed my guest, who, after having crossed a wide hall leading into the garden, went towards a clump of pomegranate trees. " Hold ! " cried he suddenly, in a stentorian voice. On one of the rocking-chairs, so generally used in the United States^ sat a young woman, her eyes sparkling with anger. Near her stood a beautiful girl, who seemed to be begging for mercy for a negress, who, kneeling down with hands clasped entreatingly, was threatened by the whip of a mulatto standing over her. . 15° MY ramhijuS in the sew W()R!,n. \ ' The girl sprang into the general's arms, whilst the young woman, rising slowly and majestically from her seat, said in a voice trembling with sujjpressed vexation — "(jood-day, sir. Has your journey been pleasant?" "What is the matter, Miss Angelina?" asked the general, turning pale. " I was exercising the authority you allowed me, sir, and was about to punish one ot your slaves." " What crime has she committed ? " " She has been away from the house for two days, and was only brought back by force this morning. Besides this, sir, I have more to speak lo you about when I can see you privately."' Miss Angelina bowed, as Juno might have done when she left Olympus, and went away. The general at last kissed his daughter, introduced me to her, and turning to the slave who was still kneeling, said to her kindly — "(}et up, Manon. Is it true, that you wanted to run away, my girl ? " " Me afraid of Miss Angelina, massa," replied the negress. " Afraid of Miss Angelina ! Have you offended her, then ? " " Miss sent me to town to fetch her beautiful dress. The rain came, it spoil the beautiful dress, and me was afraid to come back." " There is a misunderstanding in all this, father," said Miss Dumont. **Miss Angelina thought that Manon had let her dress get wet on purpose." I was greatly eml)arrassed during this scene. Not knowing where to go, and not wishing to appear to be listening, I studiously examined a fine shrub, until at last the general had pity on me. " We will settle this affair presently," said he. "You, Manon, go Ijack to your work ; and you, my child," continued he, addressing his daughter, "go and see about the arrangements for our guest." " Did you build this house ? " I asked the general, who was silent and thoughtful. witl assi fift pu riiViHiTir ~ T FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. •5' L' young aid in a general, •'id was ind was 'lis, sir, ee you len she ■sed his ve who 1 away, ress. hen ? " The aid to [ Miss -'t her 3 wing ng, I I had inon, [ he, lents was "No. My father had it l)uilt .... I have lost rny wager with you," continued he, in f'le rough tone lie sometimes assumed; "nevertheless, 1 can assure you thai for the last fifty year.s not a slave— not one — has ever received corporeal punishment on my estate." " Had we not better let that subject drop?" " No. We should then be obliged to talk with reserve, which for my part I am incapable of. 1 told you, did I not, that Miss Angelina is a New Yorkist? Well, now, if we Southerners look on the negro as a chikl, our Northern neigh- bours regard him as nothing better than an animal." " Nevertheless, the Northerners are against slavery." " Only out of opposition to us ; not in the least from con- viction or humanity. There is not perhaps another part of the globe where he coloured man is more spurned and despised than at New York. This is a fa< t which you will see for yourself by and-by, and which will explain Miss Angelina's conduct." *' A spoilt dress is enough to explain feminine anger, general, and Miss Angelina undoubtedly belongs to the race of coquettish Roman women who at their toilet would run pins into their maids' shoulders when the latter were not skilful." My host led me back to the house, and I was shown into a most comfortab.'^ room, the windows of which looked over the park. There was an extensive view ; but, probably owiiig to tlie season, the country bad a dusty and rather gloomy aspect. The sun was sinkmg below the western horizon, and the long shadow of the house fell over a terrace planted with orange trees. :5uddenly I heard Miss Angelina's voice, talking with her pupil. 'Ihe two young people were sitting on the terrace before a small table, on which a negress placed work-baskets and embroidery. I was aljle to watch them at my leisure. Miss Angelina, although scarcely twenty, looked twenty-five. She was tall and slender, and had dark eyes and hair. Her demeanour, although somewhat stiff, was not wanting in grace. The features of the learned young woman were irreproachably regular, and gave a severe, even cold look to her countenance. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 5 // {./ ^ >. .♦* ?f. ^*^ ^J^ V ^ 1.0 1.1 11.25 ■^121 12.5 ■50 ^^ Jmm ut 12,2 £ Ufi |2.0 u MB ■Itoi* Hiotograiiiic Sciences Corporation and feet were those of a child, and her face was as animated when she was listening as when she spoke ; she was, in fact, a French woman. About five o'clock I was summoned to go to the general by his valet, a young mulatto about fifteen years old. My host, still in his riding-boots and spurs, had just gone the round of his plantation. " I had pity on you to-day," said he to me, " but to-morrow you must go with me, and not be afraid of showing your admiration. You probably know that one's own plot of ground is always the best ; thus my cotton is far superior to my neighbours', although each of them maintains the contrary." We went over the garden, I should say the park, for it extended over several acres. Fine walnut trees were growing side by side with their European brothers, somewhat stunted by the hot climate. It was a whim of my host's to have trees of both hemispheres growing together around his house, where apple trees, pear trees, and apricots were overshadowed by fine mangoes. "I get pears, peaches, and apricots which would certainly be despised at Paris," said the general ; " but they are better than none at all." During dinner Miss Angelina, who took the place of mistress of the house, led the conversation on to American politics, just FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 153 then replete with important questions. I tried at first to put in 3 word, but soon prudently contented myself with listening. Miss Angelina spoke well, and the general had not always the best of the argument. I was — a spectacle as curious as it was instructive for me— in presence of two compatriots talking of their country ; but I doubt if Poland is separated from Russia by deeper feelings of dissension than those which divide North America from the South. There is an antagonism of race, language, religion, and education ; the Yankee and the Creole seemed destined to hate each other. We went out on to the terrace to take coffee, and there I was presented to five or six neighbours, who had come to call on the general. The conversation was at first on the price of sugar, cotton, brandy, and slaves ; and then every one was silent to listen to Miss Angelina discussing a medical topic with a German doctor. From the topography of the human body the young lady, by I know not what sudden transition, brought us to the topography of the sky, where the beautiful constellation of the Southern Cross was now visible. The visitors, the general especially, seemed charmed to see me listening so intently to their learned countrywoman. They thought I was astonished, when, in reality, I was simply surprised to hear a young girl talking on all subjects with the self-possession of an old professor ; and I looked with pleasure at Miss Arabella, who, inattentive and smiling, was playing with a kitten. The next day, before dinner time, I had been all over the Messangbre estate, and had duly admired my host's cows, horses, and cotton plantations. What most interested me were the slaves' cabins. Thanks to the master's generosity, each cabin was furnished with a bedstead, a chest of drawers, and a table ; and the occupants, men and women, had a small garden and a yard, the products of which belonged to them. My host's kind- ness and humanity were manifest, and his little colony, wisely ordered and managed, was a pleasure to see. Certainly the comfort enjoyed by the negroes at Messangere did not reconcile me to slavery ; but I promised, if ever I was obliged to resign my liberty, I would choose no other master than General Dumont. 154 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The Sunday following my arrival, there was a grand dinner given in my honour. All the afternoon carriages arrived, bringing about thirty guests. All were of French origin, and spoke the language of their mother country. Miss Angelina soon left the ladies, and began talking business and politics with the gentlemen. Miss Arabella led her younger friends on to the terrace, from whence we could hear their joyous bursts of laughter. "I'here is no use in my having Miss Angelina as governess to my daughter; it is already too late to reform the young sapling." " Was not Miss Arabella educated at Nrw York ? " " Yes ; at a French school. Arabella knows how ^o sew, embroider, draw, and play on the piano, but she knows nothing whatever of the serious things of life." " I think you are unjust, general." *' No ; I am practical. In sending my daughter to a French school in New York, I committed an error, which I shall always regret." " Miss Arabella is witty, learned and modest ; what more can you wish for ? " "Can she be compared to Miss Angelina?" "No. I place her far above that pedantic doctress, who has nothing of her sex save her dress." " And beauty." " That depends upon taste." " You are unjust in your turn, or rather, you are reasoning in this matter with your French prejudices. The woman is equal to the man, and the time has come to expect something more of her than love of frivolities." " We are of the same opinion, general. Women should be instructed ; but it is going beyond the mark, to teach young girls certain sciences before they are twenty years old. Your slave chastiser . . . ." " Would you like to discuss the subject of ' education of women ' with her ? " "*• * " No," cried I ; " I prefer to declare myself defeated before- hand." FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. '55 The dinner-bell sounded, and I offered my arm to the learned young lady, who undoubtedly had heard my speech. She looked at me ironically for a moment, and appeared to hesitate. Her large black eyes shone, her rosy lips, half pa i ted, displayed her white teeth : she was really very beautiful. At last she took my arm. "Do you know," said she, "that an ancient law of my country, which I do not think is repealed, allows the woman who has leaned on a man's arm, to claim that man as her husband ? " I made an involuntary movement backward. The young lady held me. *' Mr. Martin," said she, addressing an old gentleman who was following us, " I ask you to be witness that this gentleman has offered me his arm." CHAPTER HI. Moliere and the education of wome.i — New Orleans — Scarcity of filtered water — The Cincinnati and the Jackson — Ball on board — A guest without knowing it — Conclusion. I WAS somewhat embarrassed. Miss Angelina had evidently only joked when she cited a law which in any case could not extend to foreigners, and I had allowed myself to commit a deplorable breach of gallantry. " Did I frighten you ? " resumed the young girl, with a dis- dainful smile. " Be assured, sir, that if 1 cared about being married, I should not have recourse either to force or subter- fuge." " You are loo beautiful," I replied, with a low bow, " for ad- mirers ever to be wanting. Who would not be happy to be honoured with your hand?" "You for one," replied the young lady; "for I have noticed '56 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. that I have not the gift of pleasing you. Do not excuse your- self ; it is reciprocal. You belong to a nation I do not like, particularly on account of its prejudices with regard to the edu- cation of women. One of your classical authors — whom you consider as the first comedian in the world, as though Shake- speare had never existed — pretends, or something very much like it, that my sex knows enough when it knows how to sew on a button." "Moli^re wrote two centuries ago, before the invention of railroads, the electric telegraph, and free women," I replied. " But you are mistaken, Miss Angelina, in thinking that he only accorded women the right of sewing on buttons; he would have them good, wise, and devoted. He even wishes them to be learned, so long as they do not appear to be so." " He wanted servants, sir ; and that is, in fact, what they obtain in your beautiful France better than anywhere else." We look our seats at table, and fortunately I was not placed next Miss Angelina, which cut short the bitter-sweet conversa- tion between us. During dinner the young American lady speechified with her ordinary self-possession, which, undoubtedly on account of our national prejudices, appeared to me more displeasing than ever. With us young girls are perhaps too timid, too modest, if modesty can be considered as a fault. The Americans, I must say with regret, have certainly gone too far in the opposite direction. I must also add that Miss Angelina had for her part passed the boundary in all points of view. It was decidedly not the learning that I found fault with in my fair antagonist, but the constant showing off of her own powers. I am in no way opposed to women becoming electors and eligible ; nevertheless, I have never been able to accustom myself to discuss political or social questions with young girls, who are necessarily inexperienced in these serious subjects, and consequently talk nonsense at random. At New Orleans educa- tion is almost the same as in France ; one scarcely ever sees a girl without her mother, and on this point, I have some difficulty in explaining the admiration which some Creole ladies evince FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. >S7 ise your- not like, the edu- lom you 1 Shake- ry much IV to sew ration of replied, he only ; would them to lat they se." : placed ►nversa- d with ount of ig than nodest, cans, I pposite for her with in ;r own lectors custom ? girls, ts, and educa- sees a ficulty evince for their northern sisters. Simplicity and amiability are cer- tainly worth more than scientific dryness, and a woman is incontestably more graceful when she gathers a bouquet, than when discussing the merits of a candidate for the presidential chair. Ten days after my arrival I reluctantly took leave of my host. War between the North and South seemed every day more imminent ; and, in order not to risk being taken prisoner between the two parties, I was obliged to hasten my visit to New Orleans, and from thence make for New York. I left M^ssangfere without having regained Miss Angelina's good graces, who to the last hour took every opportunity of showing the pity with which my old-fashioned ideas inspired her. As to the general and his daughter, I have the warmest friendship for them and a very happy recollection of their kind- ness to me whilst under their roof. •' Are you reconciled to slavery ? " said my host to me, as he saw me to the carriage. *' No," replied I, pressing his hand ; " but I am reconciled to masters such as you." I kissed Miss Arabella's hand, bowed low to Miss Angelina, and entered the carriage which was to take me back to the ancient capital of Louisiana, taking with me the general's promise that he would come and dine with me before I left for Washington. On the way I talked freely with the negro who was driving me, and I asked him if he were happy in his condition of life. " Very happy," he replied ; '* the master is good." " Do you never want to travel ? '' " 1 often travel with the master." " I mean to travel alone ? " " I could not if I \- anted to," replied he, showing his white teeth with a broad grin ; " my old woman keeps the money." ** Are you rich, then ?" " Enough to pay for a ransom if I wanted one," said the negro, drawing himself up. " And why do you not want to be free ? " I asked with surprise. M 158 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WC D. " Because the master is kind ; and if I was once free I should have to leave him and look for another." " But you would be free." " What good would that do me ? I should only like to be free if I had enough money to live without doing anything. I have a good master and will keep to him." . This way of looking at things is common enough among the negroes ; but not so with the mulattoes, who, livelier, more in- telligent, and proud of their mixed blood, dream of liberty even at the price of misery. It was noon when I reached the hotel where I was to stay. I dismissed my negro with a douceur which called forth numer- ous thanks, and an hour later I was wandering at random through the town. New Orleans, built on the left bank of the Mississippi, was ceded to the United States, in 1803, by Napoleon, who despaired of being able to defend Louisiana against the English. Except the cathedral, the old town did not appear to me to possess any other remarkable building than its market, built after the model of the Athenian propylaeum, which astonishes rather than excites admiration. The streets, cut at right-angles, have the monotonous regularity usual in most of the Spanish towns of America. The only part which particularly attracted my atten- tion was the French quarter, not on account of its cleanliness and order, but simply because the French language was exclu- sively spoken there. Going down a street which led to the Mississippi, I was sur- prised to see a ship sailing, as it were, above the town. I could not account for this singular phenomenon until I drew nearer. New Orleans is protected from the overflowing of the river upon whose bank it is built by immense dykes, and when the tide is high it is on a level with the roofs of some houses. In the .centre of the city where shops, more of Spanish than French or American character, are crowded together, people of all nations and all colours may be seen slowly wending their way, overpowered by the burning atmosphere. One must speak at. least three languages in order to be perfectly at home [ should :e to be ling. I ong the lore in- ly even o stay, numer- andom pi, was ipaired Except fss any model than ve the *ns of atten- iliness exclu- is sur- could earer. upon ide is than eople their speak lome X. ui FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. iS9 o in New Orleans ; one is as often addressed in Spanish as in French or EnL;Iish, without counting the Creole patois, and the jargon of the negroes, which to be understood retjuires a long time to accustom the ear to it. Following the direction of a cigar merchant, I went to one of the best bath establishments in the town. The slave who filled the office of bath-njan had skin almost as white as my own, and slavery seems still more odious when its victims are men in almost all respects like Europeans. Thus it was at the hotel where I stayed— the maid-servants were quadroons whose African origin required the practised eye of the Creole to dis- cern. The young girls were slaves, and I must confess seemed none the less lively on that account. My white negro — I mean to say my bath-man— filled my bath with a yellowish liquid. " What is that ? " I asked, with surprise. " Water," replied he. " Water ! — that thick yellow liquid, as frothy as beer ? " " There is no other in New Orleans." " Have you no filtered water ? " " Yes, sir, you have a decanter full." " I want my bath full." The white negro looked at me with an air of consternation, raised his hands, let them fall, and then began to laugh. After a short explanation, I learnt that at New Orleans filtered water is only used for drinking ; and I was tempted to ask, as did Diogenes, " W^here is one to wash, then, on coming out of this ? " In the evening I went to the opera to hear a young singer for whom the papers of the town predicted the most brilliant future. After the performance, I had the honour of taking an ice side by side with the artiste who was to become the Marquise de Caux ; then "Mademoiselle Adelina Patti, a simple debutante. After having taken my walks along the quay for four days, been present shudderingly at several slave auctions, and dipped five times in the yellow water of the Mississippi, I began to find i6o MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. these pleasures monotonous. I had no silken goods, wines, nor spirits to sell, and I did not want to buy either tol)acco, cotton, or sugar, so that I was completely out of my place in this large town, the most remarkable monument of which is in reality a mountain of oyster shells heaped up near the harbour. Is this innumerable quantity of oyster-shells to be used in commerce, or have the inhabitants of New Orleans from generation to generation taken an oath to put all the shells of the oysters they have eaten in the same place? This was a problem I could not explain. The absence of filtered water and the abundance of oyster-shells are two of my most curious memories of New Orleans, for which I must beg pardon of the heroic city. One morning, faithful to his promise. General Dumont noisily burst into my room. " Well," said he to me, " and what do you think of our ancient capital ? " " It is a rather fine town, very rich and very commercial, but the manners and customs are too much like those of my own country to interest me greatly." " Have you been over the American quarter ? " " Certainly ; and the brick houses very much resemble those I have seen in England." " Have you visited the villas in the suburbs ? " " Yes, although the muddy state of the roads is much against any approach to the houses in that direction. I noticed that all the villas were surmounted by lightning conductors, and provided with immense tanks for rain-water, which makes them look like Alembics." " You are not kind to our large city, the rival of New York ; but you have friends here, have you not ? " " None, except one or two acquaintances, who are always not at home when I have called." " Would you like me to introduce you to one or two of my friends ? " " No, thank you, general. I have made up my mind to leave here, and to-morrow I shall take a berth on the first steamboat going up the Mississippi." FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. l6! After breakfast, I went out with the general. He took me to several houses, where I received most pressing invitations; but I had decided to set out on my journey ngain, and the general insisted on going with me to the steamboat agency. " I came with the intention of proposing a pleasure-party ; fortunately, your resolution docs not oblige me to change my plans in the least. I . . . . No, I will tell you later on." An hour later, in exchange for fifty dollars, I was in possession of a ticket giving me the right to a cabin on board ihc Jackson, going to Nashville, on the Ohio. "Be ready to-morrow afternoon at four o'clock," said the general to me ; ''I will come for you with my daughter and Miss Angelina. We will go part of the journey with you." I warmly thanked the general for his kindness ; and the following day, towards five o'clock, we went on board a steamer on the stern of which was written in large letters, Cincinnati. " But I have to go on board ihc/ackson" said I to the general. **'Vhe/ackson has delayed its departure twelve hours; and the Cincinnati, which belongs to the same company, is equally well fitted up." ** Must 1 not change my ticket?" " It is useless. Leave it to me." Just as we set foot on board the Cincinnati, a band on deck began playing. The ship was adorned with flags, and a numerous crowd thronged the quay to watch its departure. My portmanteau was disposed of in a comfortable cabin, and I followed my guide into a magnificent saloon, where I found Mies Arabella and Miss Angelina. The general seemed in high spirits, and was continually exchanging bows and compliments with the passengers of the Cincinnati, who seemed to be all friends. I had heard a good deal of the luxury of the steamers which ply the Mississippi and its aflluents, but the reality far surpassed anything I had dreamt of. Everywhere carpets and gildings such as are rarely found in the most luxuriously furnished houses. The grand saloon was indeed a marvel of sumptuousness. I had been cautioned against American roughness, and I was l62 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. surprised to see all my travelling companions bowing and talk- ing to each other like old acquaintances. The finely dressed ladies seemed equally sociable ; in the saloon as well as on deck they accosted each other freely and cordially. The general introduced me from time to time to a passenger ; they shook my hands with energetic warmth, and the orchestra continued to fill the air with harmonious sounds. » -^ A loud whistle sounded, the captain's voice was heard giving orders, the crew bustled about, and the wheels of the engine, placed on deck instead of being hidden away in the depths of the ship, were set in motion. A quarter of an hour later, New Orleans disappeared from sight, and we were steaming away at full sp^ed. I sat on the upper deck with ^he general, and the attentive waiters brought us the thousand and one bitter drinks of which the Americans are so fond. Every one was speaking of the probable war, and each declared that when the time came he would take up arms in defence of his rights. These were no vain words. The Southerners have acted heroically in the long struggle with their Northern brothers, and have always had my sympathy. Night came on gradually; the steamer's speed was dimin- ished. A splendid moonlight lit up the country, which was still low-lying, and somewhat monotonous. A bell announced dinner, and at seven o'clock precisely I sat down next to Miss Arabella before a bountifully spread table. The ladies, having changed their costumes, now appeared in evening dress. Never in my life had I been present at a dinner of more than a hundred guests where reigned so much gaiety, cordiality, and good taste. I could not avoid, from time to time, expressing my surprise to Miss Arabella. "We are among fellow country-people," said the young girl, who smiled at my remarks ; " and we all know each other, more or less." "I should never have thought that in a public place on board a steamer, ladies were obliged to wear evening dress for dinner." •Vl' ¥ N FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 163 ^a1 u " It is a custom which you will find in all the large hotels in New York." "And that orchestra — very good, upon my word — does it accompany the ship to her destination ? " " I am not sure. But you often have more music than you care for on board our ships." After dinner the ladies disappeared, and the gentlemen went on deck to smoke. " Do you mean to go back to the saloon ?" said the general to me. " Yes, certainly ; I want to spend the evening with Miss Arabella." " Then go down and put on a black coat and white tie." " Is evening dress strictly necessary?" " Absolutely," said the general. "There were a few frock- coats allowed at dinner, but they will not be permitted in the saloon." "Then you are not free to do as you like on board your steamers ? " " Never on the first day. You will be free to-morrow." I went towards the 'tween decks, wondering in which of my trunks I ought to look for my dress-coat. I was surprised to see the saloon already cleared of the tables,, and several ladies sitting there. I took the outside gallery to get back to my cabin, and came upon a large room where negroes, clad in the traditional costume of Figaro, assisted by ladies'-maids, were dressing the hair of three or four fine lades, and ornamenting them with flowers. I had walked by accident into a hair-dressing saloon, from which I made a hasty retreat. "There is a ball on board," thought I. I was not mistaken, for just at that moment the orchestra struck up a waltz. When I left my cabin the dancing had begun. "Are we going to lead this pleasant life as far as Nashville ?" I asked of the general, on rejoining him. "You, perhaps," replied he, "but as for me, I hope to be back at M^ssang^re to-morrow." ti^ t64 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. M What I saw astonished me somewhat ; there were only nice- looking women, and well-bred gentlemen, and the diamonds that I saw sparkling, looked very much like real. I did not know that all Americans were millionaires. The dancing was kept up till four in the morning, and going up on deck once, I saw that the ship was lying at anchor. About ten o'clock the general called me, and told me to get my portmanteau strapped. We then went on deck, where I found Miss Arabella and her governess. "Upon my word !" cried I, "that sailor is carrying off one of my trunks." "Yes," said the general to me, "you are going to change cabins ; do not disturb yourself." An expression of such wondering surprise was depicted on my face, that the general, his daughter, and some of my new friends who were standing near us, began to laugh. I then learnt what I should have guessed on first setting foot on l^oard the Cincinnati. A rich merchant of New Orleans had hired the steamer for the occasion of the annual ball, to which he invited all his friends, and through the general I had been admitted among the chosen few ; at last I understood my old friend's reticence. The Jackson appeared on the horizon ; I bade my host, and then Miss Arabella, a last farewell. When I looked round for Miss Angelina, I saw her in the boat which was to take me to the Jackson. "She is going with you," said the general to me. " I was obliged to choose between her and Manon, and I have decided to keep Manon." A quarter of an hour later, the Cincinnati disappeared behind a bend of the river, and I took up my quarters in my new cabin. On board ihtjackson^ as on the Cincinnati, there was a buffet, a hair-dressing saloon, and an orchestra. Unfortunately I did not find there either the style or the agreeable manners of the companions I had just left. At Nashville I heard of the attack of Fort Sumter. War was openly declared between the North and South. I learnt this FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 165 •1 one news from Miss Angelina ; she spoke to me for the first time since our departure, and was leaning on the arm of a gentleman, who, more gallant than I, did not fear to expose himself to the law which could make him the husband of the beautiful and learned young American lady. "Before a month has passed,"said she, pointing to the great plains which the steamer was leaving behind her, " the soldiers of the North will cover that beautiful country with their blue uniforms, and the pride of the Creoles will be brought low. New Orleans, now boasting of her commerce, of her semi- tropical situation, and of her pretended invincibility, will be conquered and forced to implore grace of New York, whose rival she calls herself." "Are you not counting your chickens before they are hatched ? " said I , eagerly. "The Creoles are brave and resolute, and they have justice on their side." "We have strength." " That is rather a questionable argument." " Do you sympathize with the South ? " said the young girl, disdainfully. " I do not deny that such is the case," I replied calmly. " I like those who like me, especially those who admire my own country. Now, the Northern States disparage France. During the war which gave Venice to Italy, during the gigantic struggle which covered the neighbourhood of Sebastopol with bloodshed, there was not an insult which the New York papers did not shower on the French, on their army, and on their generals. This is why I am indignant with my countrymen for praising America. They see it, and that is their excuse, through the views of M. de Tocqueville's book, a work forty years old, and no longer correct." My words were imprudent ; fortunately we were surrounded by Southerners, the majority of whom shared my opinion. Miss Angelina shrugged her shoulders contemptuously, gratified me with an ironical grimace, and then unceremoniously turned her back upon me. I knew what a scientific arsenal my fair enemy had at her disposal, and I was obliged to confess that her 1 66 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. :w<,'^' h>- silence, which seemed to leave me the victory, was in reality nothing but ill-concealed contempt for my insignificant self. Certainly I admire as much as any one the material progress realized by the great republic in less than half a century ; but as a true friend of liberty, I deplore its moral and political corruptions; they surpass all that can be imagined. The republic of Washington, which was equal to Rome in its respect for laws, is already nothing more than a copy of the lower empire. Will it turn aside from this road which, sooner or later, will give it over into the hands of some low despot ? I sincerely hope it may. Two years ago I learnt with regret that General Dumont had been killed during the War of the Secession. The North, out of policy, and not humanity, as is generally thought, gave liberty to the slaves : may it be none the less blessed for so doing ! Miss Arabella would have been ruined, but when the war was ended, her father's servants returned to her. She is married, and M^ssangfere is still in a flourishing condition. As to Miss Angelina, she is a professor of medicine in a western town, and takes great interest in theology. THE HORSE-TAMER. f'k The mouse -coloured horse — Yankees and Texians — An accident — Alone ! — Don Jose — The wild horse — A terrible night. Texas, although thinly populated, forms at the present day one of the principal states of the great American republic; it is an extensive flat, healthy, and fertile country, abundantly watered by rivers with considerable affluents. The rivers Del Norte, Las Nieves, La Trinidad, and then the San Jacinto, the Brazos, the San Antonio, and the Sabina, offer natural roads of communication — ^^roads which will sooner or later make Texas a privileged country, and perhaps the finest jewel of the American crown. Although Francis Lassalle, in the year 1684, tried to found settlements in Texas — an attempt which attracted the attention of the Spaniards — this magnificent country remained for a long time abandoned. At the cession of Louisiana, by France, to the United States, the young republic, already encroaching, laid claim to Texas. In 1819, she nominally renounced her pretensions by the treaty of Washington. But two years later. Colonel Austin, having obtained permission to found an Anglo- American colony, under the name of Fredonia, settled on the banks of the Colorado, and there built the capital of Texas. This first attempt at colonization was the beginning of the movement which, by bringing emigrants of European origin to Texas, ended in a proclamation of independence in 1835. Mexico, on her separation from Spain, having annexed Texas to her province of Coahuila, attempted to maintain her rights by force of arms. Samuel Houston, president of Texas, iTW^T i68 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. defeated the Mexican army, commanded by Santa Ana, on the banks of the San Jacinto. In 1845, the United States having admitted Texas into their confederation, a war ensued with the Mexicans, who, after invading their former province, were driven from it. Santa Ana, defeated in several encounters, saw the enemy penetrate into Mexico, by which they lost not only Texas, but the wilds of New Mexico and California. Two years after this war, that is to say, in 1849, 1 crossed the Del Nor|e opposite to the Presidio Grande— a settlement founded by the Spaniards about the year 1610. I intended to go to the Rio de las Nueces, and then up that river as far as Castro- ville. In order to accomplish this journey, I was obliged to cross virgiii countries, forests of oak, Cyprus, and magnolias, and above all, vast )lains where immense troops of wild horses ranged the country at freedom. The few inhabitants of the country, men of mixed blood, Mexicans by origin and manners, heartily detest their new masters, and in their ignorance easily class all white men under the name of Yankees. Now at this period every Yankee was considered a traitor, and further still, as a heretic, of whom it was a good thing to free the land, whenever an opportunity presented itself. Notwithstanding the warnings I received, I persisted in my intention of crossing the plains, and I bought, for eight pounds, a strong-looking mouse-coloured pony. I wanted a guide, and my host — a Swiss, who had established himself for many years on the banks of the Rio Grande — decided that for such a journey as I was about to undertake, I should want a safe and experienced man, such as Manuel Oronos, for instance. This Manuel Oronos, a Mexican half-breed, and a horse-tamer by profession, enjoyed an indisputable reputation for horseman- ship. He knew Texas well, and no better guide could be found. For two years he had lived a secluded life. He was accused of having taken part with the Americans in the late war ; and one of his countrymen having dared to tell him so to his face, was at once stabbed. That is how the story ran at Presidio Grande, but my host did not believe a word of it. Besides, even if it were true. Manuel Oronos was none the less a skilful guide. THE HORSE-TAMER. 169 ti< i •• Two days later, Manuel Oroftos was introduced to me. He was a man of forty, tall and robust, with strong, heavy features. I explained to him my intention of crossing the plains. After reflecting for some time — " Very well," said he, suddenly. " When do you wish to start?" "To-morrow, if possible." " Be it so, seftor." . . 1 . At break of day, a norseman, in a long scarlet cloak, and straw hat with large flaps at the sides, riding a magnificent horse, with a saddle ornamented with silver, knocked at my host's door with the loaded handle of his riding-whip. I was already busy har- nessing my famous mouse-coloured horse, and I went out to meet Manuel Oronos, who, from the richness of his costume and the beauty of his steed, would unmistakably pass for the master. He bowed politely to me, alighted, and eyed my horse en con- noisseur. Presently he smiled. " Do you really think you will be able to cross the savannahs on that wretched quadruped ? " asked he. " That wretched quadruped ! " cried I, indignantly. " My horse has none of the traditional leanness of Don Quixote's steed ; he is well made, good tempered, and if his coat were not such a singular colour . . . ." " That animal has no stamina, senor — I am certain of that, and only hope that he may not break down with you half-way. But will you take my advice ? Let us put off the journey till to-morrow ; exchange your horse for another, no matter which, and you will gain by it." I defended my steed against my guide's criticism, more perhaps out of self-pride than conviction. I would not confess that I had been deceived. ** Such as he is," said I at last, " this horse will quite well carry me from here to the Rio de las Nueces, will he not?" " Perhaps. Anyway, with God's help, you may do it." I sprang into the saddle ; then, having bid farewell to my host, I used my spur. My steed bounded forward, and set off at a pace which seemed to contradict my guide's gloomy prognos- N 170 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. tics. Leaving the far-off summits of the Sierra de Guadaloupe to our right, we went through the wide street of Presidio Grande, and a few hours later we were riding through a mag- noh'a wood. Twenty-four hours after starting, we came upon an immense savannah, dotted here and there with clumps of mimosa trees. The heat soon became overpowering. We were, however, obliged to continue our way just the same, for, according to my guide, we had three halting-places to pass before we should be able to find any water. My mouse-coloured horse, which I had as yet only had occasion to praise, now began to lag, and obliged me often to use the spur. All at once the poor beast suddenly stopped short, tottered on its legs, and lay down gently on the ground. Fortunately, foreseeing what would happen, I had taken my feet out of the stirrups. I unsaddled the poor animal as quickly as possible, but it drew its last breath before I could finish the unstrapping. I then looked at my guide, with bewilderment easy to be conceived; he pulled his thin moustache energetically. We were forty leagues from our starting-point, and sixty from the place we wanted to reach. The situation left much to be desired. " What am I to do ? " cried I. " My horse could carry both of us very well," replied Manuel Oronos ; " but, thus burdened, we shall be obliged to make very short stages, and shall have no pleasant time of it." " And what about my luggage?'' cried I, pointing to a small portmanteau fastened to the saddle, and which, besides a change of clothes, contained my notes and sketches. "You must leave it as well as your saddle." This proposition was decidedly not to my taste. "Take my portmanteau," said I to the guide. "I am not afraid of fatigue. I will follow you on foot." " Under this sun ? Yom cannot think of it, seftor." " I am a good walker, and if we walk till night . . . ." " Do you think for one moment," cried the Texian, " that you could walk sixty leagues in this desert ? " " Sixty leagues ? No ; for we shall turn back, and this time THE HORSE-TAMER. 171 I will get you to buy me a horse. But tell me, is there no vil- lage nearer than Presidio ? " Instead of replying, Manuel looked at the horizon, and again pulled his moustache. I repeated my question. " There is the Diamond rancho about six leagues to the south of us," replied he at last. "That is a lucky name!" cried I. "Be quick; show me the way." " Your honour has not an idea of the difficulties you will find in walking," resumed ihe guide. " First of all, the ground is uneven, the grass is high, and before an hour's time you would be so dreadfully bitten by insects, that your legs and feet would be of no use to you." " What would you propose, then ? I suppose we cannot camp here and wait for help?" " If your honour had the courage to remain here alone for a few hours, and would trust me with a little gold, I could go to Diamond rancho, and bring back another horse." It was now my turn to be silent. It needed some little reflection, before deciding to remain alone in the midst of a savannah. After all, Manuel was to be relied on, and I had only one fear, which I told him, and it was that he would have great difficulty in finding me in the immense plain, where I should remain lost. " If you do not move from here," replied my guide, " I promise you I will be here before night." "Go, then," said I, "and come back quickly." Without further explanation, Manuel bowed to me, and spurred on his horse. I followed with my eyes for some time, until the mimosas gradually hid him from view, and I was left alone at noon, in the midst of almost absolute silence. My first care was to cut the grass, arrange it in long bundles, and make myself a shelter. I thus succeeded in improvising a kind of tent, under which I could stretch myself in shelter. The day was spent in defending myself against swarms of insects. The most tiresome were iht pinolillos, whose venomous bite I had known, to my cost, in former travels in hot lya MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. countries. How many times I envied the vultures their wings when I saw those bold robbers fly'ng through the cloudless sky. At times the silence around me became so oppressive, I was obliged to whistle or strike the ground with my riding-whip to make a noise. Just as the sun was nearing the horizon, a light breeze sprang up, and I was able to leave my shelter. About five or six yards from the spot where I had been resting was a hillock, where I resolved to take my stand. From the top of this slight eminence, which overlooked the plain and seemed to have been made by man, I should be able to see my guide in the distance. A fire lighted on the summit would be a signal to him, and en- able him to find me sooner. I flattered myself that this was a very good idea. From the hillock I was able to see the place where my poor horse was lying, and also the trace left by Manuel in the long grass. I gathered sufficient branches to feed my fire, and night found me warming myself before a bright flame, the crackling of which enlivened and reassured me. Two or three times my attention was aroused ; I thought I heard the so'.md of barking in the distance, but hearing nothing the next moment, I attributed the sound to my fancy. Hours went by, and my guide did not come. This camping in the open plain was not the least curious incident in my adventurous life. If Manuel did not return, what would become of me ? I asked myself this terrible question from time to time, and a shudder ran through my body. But one only abandons an enemy in the desert, and Ivianuel was not my enemy. Suddenly the galloping of a horse was heard, at first in the distance, and then more distinctly. I got up, shouted, and ran some distance in front of my bivouac. To my great surprise, instead of my guide I saw a horseman with a rifle at his side, who looked at me with curiosity equal to my own. I seized my revolver. " Friend or foe ? " I cried. " Whichever you like, senor ; for my part, I have no evil intentions against you. One word only : are you a Yankee ? " s a THE HORSE TAMER. «73 •*No, I am a Frenchman, and consequently a friend of the Texians, whatever party they may uphold." " Well said, seftor, and I Mieve you." The new-comer then hung his rifle to his saddle-bow and drew near my fire. I imitated his confidence by putting down my revolver, and I briefly told him my misadventure. "Manuel Oroftos!" cried he, when I mentioned my com- panion's name. " Is Manuel Oroftos your guide?" " Yes," replied I. "He is at present at the Diamond rancho^ in search of another horse for me." " He will return as he went, seftor. The Diamond rancho has been abandoned for almost six months." I soon learnt with surprise that the horseman lived at less than a mile from the place where I was, and that the barking which I had heard was not imaginary. " Is not Oroftos aware of this circumstance ?" I asked. " Oh yes, perfectly ; but there is a death feud between us, and he does not care to meet me." These words threw me into great per[)lexity. Oroftos could not now be long in making his appearance, and if he came up unexpectedly, I should most probably be the unwilling witness of some fierce struggle. '* Good- evening," said I to the horseman. " My guide will probably not return until to-morrow ; I am going to sleep in the meantime." " By my worthy patron St. Joseph ! senor," cried the horse- man, " will you not do me the honour of sleeping beneath my roof?" "No," I replied, " although I thank you for your offer. You have just told me that there is blood between you and my guide, and I am particularly anxious that you should not meet." "I swear, seftor," replied the horseman, "that you and Manuel will be in safety under my roof. Hospitality comes before vengeance. I shall tell him so, for I expect him." The horseman at once alighted, tethered his horse, and quietly sat down by my side. Ten minutes passed, and at last Oroftos appeared. He grew slightly pale on seeing my companion. 174 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. " Good-da)'," said the latter, rising. " Good-day, Josd," replied my guide. " Were you waiting forme?" "Yes, to invite you to accompany this traveller to my roof. You know I mean what I say, Manuel." Manuel bowed his head without replying, and soon following the horseman, we came to a large building with a turf roof On the threshold two young , v omen were bruising maize, by the flickering light of a fire. After having given us some supper, Don Josd took us to a small shed built against the house, and there he left us to sleep, wishing us good-night. " What tragical event has happened between you and our host ? " I then asked Manuel. " Four years ago," replied my guide, "in a horse-race I gained a prize which Josh's brother competed for with me. He be- came furious, and shot my horse ; whereupon I struck him across the chest with a club, from which he died. Jos^ and his brother were at that time on the side of the Americans ; I was, and am still, for Mexico, and our qnrrel was thought to have arisen from political reasons." "Are you afraid of vengeance?" " Yes," replied my guide ; " but not this evening. Anyway, I shall keep on my guard. Let us sleep ; I am quite exhausted with fatigue." I stretched myself on the mat which had beon placed on the ground, and Manuel followed my example. A quarter of an hour later, when he thought I was asleep, I saw him get up quietly, and go away. I looked after him. Instead of going towards the house, as I had feared, my guide went in the direction of the plain. Evidently he had not much faith in Don Josh's promises, and wished to put himself in safety. The hours went on, and I fell asleep. When I awoke, the ardent rays of the sun were already burning the great plains, and there were light mists floating in the air. I found my portmanteau and my horse's harness before the door of the rancho^ and standing round a young horse were Don Jos^, Manuel, and two servants. Manuel was THE HORSE-TAMER. 175 examining the horse carefully, and I learnt that it was the one my host wished to sell me. "Is it a wild horse? ' I asked, seeing the way in which he was fettered. " Wild ? no," replied the seller. " He has the red mark on his thigh, which proves that he has been thoroughly broken in ; only he has lived free on the plains for a year, and will be a little restive until he is reminded of obedience. Is he not a fine animal, Manuel?" " Yes," said Manuel, " there is a good look about the creature ; but he must be ridden to know what he is worth." " Certainly," replied Don Jos^. Two Indians, who were breaking in a colt, were at once called. Before us stretched a savannah, the grass of which had been burnt away for some distance ; a precaution generally taken by rancheros^ as much to rid themselves of harmful insects as to have tenderer grass for their cattle. "Will you not show the animal off yourself?" asked Don Jos^ of Manuel. " Yes," answered my guide, shortly. To my great surprise, the two Indians led the horse to an enormous branch covered with foliage, which they fastened to the long tail of the trembling creature. Meanwhile Manuel stripped himself naked to the waist. He passed a horsehair rope through the mouth of the potro — a name given to young horses — which, with a slip-knot, served as bridle and bit at the same time. The Indians hung on to this curb, holding the horse, which, frightened and angry, lowered his head and pawed the ground restively. "Stay," cried I, seeing my. guide ready to spring on to the animal's back; "what I want is a quiet, tractable animal. What would be the use of a wild horse like that to me ? " " Before an hour's time, sefior," replied Don Jos4 " Manuel, who has not his equal in the country for breaking in fild horses, will bring back his pupil as pliant as the backbone of a tiger." 176 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I turned to Manuel, and he said abruptly — "All right; we will talk about it presently." He immediately sprang on to the />o/ro, which curveted, gave a prolonged neigh, and shook his head to free himself of the two Indians who kept him prisoner, lifting them from the ground as he did so. " Let go," cried Manuel. Just as the Indians were obeying this order, Don Jose, with a rapid movement, cut the cord which tied the branch to the horse's tail. The animal, feeling itself free, made one or two swerving steps, and then darted forward like an arrow. " What a treacherous act ! " I cried, advancing towards Don Jose ; " it may perhaps be the cause of that man's death ! " '* I have an old account to settle with Manuel, senor," quietly replied my host. "Take my advice , don't interfere in the matter." Borne away by his steed, Manuel had disappeared. 'Ihe Indians and the half-castes, as much surprised as myself, looked at their master without saying a word. " I have put my vengeance in God's hands, and He will decide," said Don Jose, loftily. For an hour I walked over the plain, looking continually in the direction where I had seen my guide disappear. Carried away by the mad pace of his steed, the horse-breaker, dashed against the trunk of a tree, was now perhaps lying on the immense savannah. At last, taking possession of the unhappy man's horse, I saddled it with the full intention of going in search of him. > " Where are you going ? " asked Don Jos^. " I am going to try and find your victim," said I, indignantly, " My victim ! Of course you are at liberty to speak and do as you like ; nevertheless, if you believe me, the best thing you can do would be to resume your journey peacefully. You are going to the Rio de Nueces, are you not ? One of my Indians will serve you as guide ; I place him at your disposal." I was about to set out, when an exclamation from one of the Indians made me look towards my left, and it was with a in w < o o h a i .w i,e^ii(ti: ^ I i m SSaml^rf, w X J o H O < h I O o H THE HORSE-TAMER. 177 w X u < X o u a: I G a: < K O D O E H feeling of inexpressible relief that I saw Manuel returning to us full speed. At less than five hundred yards from me, he suddenly checked the foaming horse, made him walk, turned him to the right and to the left, and at last, after another gallop, he stopped short at my side. "He is a good animal," said he. "You can buy him. He is worth thirty piastres. Pay, and let us start." Astounded by this incredible coolness, I stood open-mouthed. Manuel rapidly dressed himself and saddled my horse, which, almost exhausted, no longer offered any resistance. Half an hour later, Don Jose having received his thirty piastres without any remark, Manuel persuaded me to mount his horse, and he took mine. " Good-day, Jos^ ! " cried my guide. " You have played me a trick I shall not forget ; so au r^w>." " Au reroir" replied Jose mechanically, and, riveted to the spot where he stood, he watched us out of sight. Directly the rancho had disappeared behind the mimosas, I drew near Manuel. "This good beast deceived his master's hopes," said he, stroking ihepotros neck, "and your acquisition is good. Before three days you will be able to mount my pupil without any danger." I wanted to question my guide, and speak to him about Don Jos^ ; but he was silent, pulled bis moustache, and rode on in front. When night fell, the horse-breaker, after having carefully examined the ground, made several circuits and finally halted. The horses were tethered. He led me further on, and we settled down among the cacti and mimosa trees. After a frugal supper, Manuel placed his fire-arms within reach, stretched himself on the ground, and fell asleep. More agitated than he by the events of the morning, although they had ended happily, I did not get to sleep till much later. In the middle of the night, I thought I heard the crackling of branches; I got up quickly, and saw my guide still slum- bering peacefully. I lay down, but it was some time before I again fell asleep. i '! 178 MYRAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. It was daylight when I opened my eyes, and what was my surprise on seeing Don Jos^ and one of his Indians quietly saddling my horse. I turned quickly to the place where Manuel Oroftos was lying. He was still sleeping. Surprised at his long sleep, I went up to him, and then stood aghast. Before me lay the unhappy man, white and livid, a gaping wound on his breast, sleeping an eternal slumber. He had been assassinated during the night. " It is your work ! " I cried, advancing towards Don Jos^. " It is my work, by the hand of Ametl," replied he, pointing to the Indian. " It was high time to pay an old debt. Thus perish," added he, with energy, "all those who delivered Texas to the Yankees." It was a singular thing, the two antagonists bore the same accusation against each other. Don Jos^ took the poor horse-breaker's place, and the corpse was left to the birds of prey. For three days the assassin served as my guide, and his company caused me a certain uneasiness, especially in the evening, when I was obliged to lie down side by side with my terrible conductor. As soon as we were within sight of the Rio de las Nueces Don Jos^ left me, without taking any compensation for his trouble. I related my adventure at the first house, where I was hospitably received, and instead of being indignant, my hosts seemed to think the incident quite natural. Two days later I again told the story to some American planters. " We shall never have any peace," said one of them, "until the country is rid of these Spanish half-castes ; and it will not be long before it is, if they begin killing each other." The law of virgin countrir is that of the strongest; is it not so sometimes even in civilized lands ? TENOCHTITLAN. Arrival of the Spaniards at Mexico — The palaces of Montezuma — The modern town — The National Palace — The theatres — Itinerant mer- chants —Society. It was on the 20th of March, 1852, about four o'clock in the afternoon, when, mounted on a sturdy mule, I had a first glimpse of the capital of Mexico. The sky was a magnificent deep azure, and the somewhat scanty verdure of the central plateau bright with vernal tints. A number of vultures were hovering over the ancient city of the Aztecs, that town of Tenochtitlan which, founded in 1327, taken and sacked by the Spaniards and their allies in 1521, was almost immediately rebuilt, as it now stands. I had just crossed the Terre temperee, and I must confess the dwarfed trees which I saw here and there gave me a very un- favourable idea of the valley of Mexico, which, nevertheless, passes for being very fertile. Fertile ! Well, be it so, especially towards the west ; but, in order to call it fertile, one must forget for a moment the vast tropical forests just crossed, the coffee plantations of Jalapa, the orange woods of Orizava — in a word, the verdant country sloping from the great Cordilleras. , To tell the truth, the impression I had was anything but pleasing on perceiving the city, which for more than two centuries was considered as the finest and most opulent city of the New World. But before saying anything of the modern town, let us speak of the great city described by Cortez, Torquemada, Bernard Diaz del Castillo, Clavigero, Herrera and finally by M. TAbb^ Brasseur de Bourbourg. One can see that A tmtim »0,wr.y*f^^ — T t'W^f " I 80 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. historians are not wanting of the ancient capital of the Mexi- catls, or Aztecs, which, for a long time unrivalled, is now sur- passed in splendour, population, and riches by many cities of the United States. Built partly on piles, in the midst of lakes, Mexico is often called by the Spaniards the I'en/ce of the New World. At the time of the conquest, it was intersected, at right angles, by a number of canals, bordered on either side by paths for foot- passengers. These canals, wide and deep, were incessantly covered with boats, and at certain distances spanned by bridges, fixed or movable, according to the necessity of the position. In fact, Mexico then possessed only four roads of any import- ance, which, starting from the four doors of the temple of Huitzilopochtli — the god of war — were the means of communi- cation between the city and the country. These causeways, built on piles, were paved with admirably cemented flag-stones, wide enough to allow of ten men passing abreast. At that time Mexico contained no less than sixty thousand households. The commodious and spacious dwellings of the nob'lity and merchant aristocracy, situated in the centre of the city, stood on terraces varying in height. These houses, built of lava — tetzontli — had only one story above the ground- floor ; a court surrounded with porticoes, and adorned with a fountain placed in the centre. Some of the richer occupants had gardens. The lower quarters of the city, inhabited by the poor, were comprised of houses built of adobes^ or sun-dried bricks. On account of the public health, these houses had been built on a layer of stone several yards deep, to protect them from inundations. At the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, no capital could boast of being better regulated than Mexico. No one, except the soldiers of the emperor's body-guard, was allowed to carry ar^^s in the public roads. At night, brasiers in the streets, carefully attended to, lighted the city until daybreak. A vigilant body of police kept the canals constantly dredged, the streets swept, and the public squares watered. Everywhere in this model city lid the Illy dy Pt, ity o TENOCHTITLAN. I8l the water, winding through numerous pipes, al)untlantly supphcd each house. Besides the principal temple dedicated to the god of war, and enclosing seventy-eight sanctuaries, Mexico contained more than four hundred buildings erected in honour of its divinities. That which added further to the splendour of tliis great city were the numerous palaces built by Montezuma and his ancestors. The ordinary residtnice cf the emperor, built of rose-coloured pumice-stone, had twenty gites opening on to as many squares, and in the centre of the building were three vast courtyards ornamented with founi.iiti.s. Marble, porphyry, and alabaster were everywhere to be seen, under the form of columns, flag-stones, and steps. Rich carpets and mats of the finest texture covered the floors. 'I'h'jre were more than a hundred rooms, and as many bath-rooms, without counting the armouries, in this sumptuous palace, where gold, silver, and feathers rivalled the marble of the porticoes in brilliancy. " The roof of this palace was so extensive," said a gentleman in the suite of Cortez, " that more than thirty horsemen would have been able to jou.st on the terraces it formed, as easily as in the large square of a town. In the interior, vessels filled with perfume were continually burning, and the daily service, according to Torque- mada, occupied no less than three thousand persons." A building not less remarkable than that of which I have just spoken was the palace destined for the rearing of birds, whose feathers, carefully collected and prepared, were used in making those pictures now so rare, that only fragments of them are to be found in museums. Extensive gardens were enclosed within the building, where tanks supplied with salt or fresh water, according to the nature of the birds, were placed near them. Not far from here was the imoerial menagerie. The fauna of Mexico, birds, quadrupeds, reptiles, fish, had been collected in this palace, and enclosed in gardens, cages, or tanks. One of the rooms of the building was appropriated to the lame, club-footed, dwarfs — in short, every species of deformity that afflicts the human race. l82 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. We will now return to my subject after this digression. After contemplating for a moment the great city stretch- ing before me, its numerous spires reminding me of Spanish towns, I with some difficulty persuaded my mule to pass through a monumental gateway, bearing the name of Garita de Puebla^ leading into a long, wide street. Scantily clad half- breeds, both male and female, sitting on the pavement, or squatting in front of their doors, watched me pass with a dogged expression on their faces. As I got further into the city, it became gradually transformed. The houses were higher and more elegant, the streets more crowded with people, and the shops better fitted up ; besides this, the costumes of the people I met were more in European style. At last, after having crossed the cathedral square, and ventured into the famous street of the Plateros, I found myself riding in the midst of carriages and carts, and among gentlemen wearing frock-coats, silk hats, and kid gloves. To my great annoyance, my terrible steed would stop short from time to time and begin to bray. At last, about six o'clock in the evening, I entered the court- yard of a large hotel. At seven o'clock a waiter, in a blue cloth jacket, white apron, and serviette under his arm, brought me a bill of fare, and awaited my orders. I could almost have believed my.self in Paris. The next morning, according to my custom, I set out to wander through the streets of the city, and this time on foot. I was favourably impressed after this first excursion. Mexico is decidedly a fine city, well-built, well situated, with the elegance of civilization curiously contrasting with the singu- larities of the savage world. But what has become of its former police ? As to cleanliness, Mexico cannot be compared either to London or Paris ; nevertheless, it is certainly better ordered than New York and the Havannah cities, where edile^ship leaves much to be desired ! And again what have become— and I am not the first to ask the question— of the canals, the palaces, the temples, and the gardens, descriptions of which left us by early historians, especially by Cortez, seem like pages taken from the Thousand s TENOCHTITLAN, 183 CO its LSk he IS, nd : and One Nights ? The traveller 3eeks in vain for traces of the past in the modern city. Urged by deplorable religious zeal, the conquerors, it is said, destroyed all the marble and jasper monuments consecrated l)y the Aztecs to t^,e worship of tneir gods, the principal of which enclosed more than three thousand statues. Without having the slightest claims to being an archaeologist, I venture to express my opinion that the Spaniards singularly exaggerated the wonders of the world they had just discovered. However great their ardour of destruction may have been, some vestiges of the past, separated from us by scarcely three centuries, would still exist. Now in this great city, with its streets cut at right angles, not a fragment belong- ing to the Aztec city is to be found. Everything is modern, and built in the Moorish or Italian style, which the Spaniards introduced into every country where they set footing. The finest and most extensive buildings of modern Mexico are decidedly the convents, of which there are not less than twenty-two. The riches of these communities, for so long proverbial, are at the present day much diminished. The gold, silver, and precious stones, which adorned the smallest shrine, liave gradually become the spoil of the revolutionists. Some pictures of rare artistic value, and a few books curious on account of their antiquity, are now almost the only treasures preserved by the monks, whom a recent law has expelled from Mexico. The National Palace, of which the Mexicans are very proud, has scarcely anything remarkable about it except its propor- tions. It is an immense kind of barracks, serving as residence to the president of the republic and its different ministers. The Diputacion^ or Mansion House, is a large, s(]uare stone build- ing, where the offices of the administration of the city are to be found, and, curious assemblage, the municipal prison and the Exchange. Mexico possesses five or six theatres, all of modern con- struction, perfectly regulated, and luxuriously fitted up. Old Spanish plays, and especially bYench dramas, form the greater part of the representations ; nevertheless, a com[)any of Italian 1 84 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. singers, generally well seiecicdj attract the preference of the higher classes in Mexican society. The national amusements of the Mexicans are bull-fights, and perhaps also marionette shows. When intelligent excavations have brought to light the ob- jects which the Chichimecs and the Toltecs amused themselves with burying in caves, the National Museum will become one of the most curious in the New World. At the present day it is nothing but an incoherent heap of heterogeneous collections : insects, birds, and quadrupeds are mingled with archaeological objects found in the valley. Mexico must have years of peace to regain anything like her ancient splendour. Devastated by civil war, this unfortunate country sees her frontiers continually ravaged by powerful neighbours. The Mexican, like many other nations, alas ! wears herself out in seeking in vain for the best form of government. Like all great cities, the capital of Mexico has its itinerant merchants, with their singular costumes and cries. From break of day, Indian coal-men traverse the streets, calling to pur- chasers in a droning, mournful voice. Behind them come butter-men, announcing the price of their goods, their guttural voices alternating with that of the butcher, who, driving before him a mule laden with joints of meat, sells his merchandise without allowing a choice of pieces, and with superb disdain of the most elementary rules of cleanliness. In their steps follow the rag-and-bone merchants, whose trade consists in exchanging fruit or spices for rags and bones, cinders, tallow, and crusts of bread. Last of all are the haberdashers, and the pork-butchers, who, with lighted stoves on their heads, splash the passers-by with grease in which their sausages are frying. Walking in a file are brush, straw-mat, barley-sugar, and sherbet vendors. Everything you can think of is sold in the streets of Mexico : remnants of stuff, spurs, hats, jewellery, even false money. These good people, in their picturesque dresses, enliven the streets with their incessant cries, and take up their positions on the pavement, to the dire discomfort of foot-passengers. The Calle de los Plateros is the principal commercial street. ' TENOCHriTLAN. 185 i Here millinery, jewellery, and drapery shops, all in imitation of European style, are crowded together. One scarcely meets any one in this part of the city who is not dressed in the latest Parisian fashion. As one gets nearer the suburbs, blouses are seen instead of overcoats, caps replace hats, shawls mantles, and shoes boots. Quite on the outskirts of the city, a simple pair of bathing-drawers for the men, and a short petticoat for the women, was the only attire generally worn. From this point of view, Mexico is certainly the most singular city in the world. That downright democrat, the Indian, props his bamboo cabin against the walls of a palace, and struts proudly in his semi-nudity among the elegant young dandies, who, al- though affecting to despise him, are nevertheless of the same race and his countrymen. The highest society of Mexico is polished, engaging, nospi- table. It follows as closely as possible French customs. The women of Mexico, for centuries renowned for the beauty of their eyes, the smallness of their hands and feet, and the wealth of their hair, are still worthy in some respects of the reputation of their ancestors. They are reproached for indolence. How can it be otherwise, in a country where the height of good manners forbids them ever to go on foot ? * 1^ THE PEARL FOREST. CHAPTER I. Isidro — Don Anastasio Vega — The Pearl Forest — The Hermit's Cave — The ambush. To the east of Orizava stretches a vast plain, overshadowed by a mountain covered with ancient forests. This mountain, a branch of the great Cordilleras, runs from east to west, and bears the name of the Pearl Mountain. It is only passable by abrupt, steep paths, winding through the forest of the same name. But beyond this, one has a glimpse of picturesque, fertile valleys, a veritable Eden, where all the productions of the tropics — cacti, cocoa-nut, orange, lemon, and coffee trees — crowd together in profuse luxuriance. At the time of the pos- session of Mexico by Spain, these valleys were well cultivated ; but at the present day they are abandoned, and are gradually returning to their former wild state. Gigantic trees entwine their branches across the high roads, creepers block the paths, and cypresses wave their sombre boughs over the ruins of habi- tations destroyed by fire. On the 5th of January, 1830, nine years after the final pro- clamation of the independence of Mexico, two Indians, who, from their orange-coloured skin, the regularity of their features, and the fine proportions of their figures, might have been re- cognized as descendants of the ancient Totonac race, were laboriously climbing the last slopes of the Pearl Mountain. They were dressed in sleeveless woollen shirts, cotton breeches, wide straw hats, and wore sandals on their feet. Two large o . THE PEARL FOREST. 187 S^ travelling-bags, strapped on their shoulders, visibly impeded their progress. It is always difficult to guess the age of an Indian, for the men of that race have the privilege of preserving their teeth to extreme old age, and their hair does not turn grey until very late. Nevertheless, from his walk, less elastic and free than his companion's, although his limbs were more robust, it might be supposed that the one taking the lead was much the elder. " Father," said the second, in the Aztec tongue, " I do not hear the master." His companion at once stood still, breathed heavily, and then listened. The atmosphere was calm, the forest quiet; not a sound, save the buzzing of insects, disturbed the reigning silence. " They are coming, Isidro," replied he. "Listen!" Isidro made a sign of assent, and the two continued their way. Before lon