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mmtm

mmm

VOYAGES

moM

MONTREAL

THROUGH THE

Continent of J^orth America, &c\ &c,

' i' W)MJ i» «l"*H 'W* *''" ' ■ "^ ■ ■M f

ii.*

•I

(

^'''';AA:vi.)(.;k :HA(

KKyyjK I'

S(l

auH

VOYAGES

\\^

IROM

^•

M O N T R E A L,

ON THE RIVER ST. LAURENCE,

THROUGH THE

CONTINENT OF NORTH AMERICA,

TO THE ' .

FROZEN AND PACIFIC OCEANS;

Ifi the Years 1/89 ami 1793.

Wrni A PRELIMINAllY ACCOUNT

OF THE RISE, rROGRESS, AND PRESENT STA'l'I- O]'

THE FUR TRADE

OF THAT COUNTRY.

I ll.l'STHAT] n Wn II MA 1"^.

nV Al.EXANDKU MACKKXZIi; ESQ.

L .V D S.'

?l<INII 1) I OK I C,,'! ! I., U)N. AND W. DAVUS. STKAVI) ; t'OBRI TT ASP MORC'AN.
l'\II..M\M.i AND W. CKIICM, A I Dl NlH'KGll.

a\ V. . Nv)HI K, II I 1)-H A I IK V.

M.DCCt; I.

•<^9i~

HIS MOST SACRED MAJESTY

GEOR.GE THE THIRD,

THIS VOLUME

IS INSCRIBED,

BY HIS ^^AJESTY'S

MOST FAIT L SUBJECT,

AND

DEVOTED SERVANT,

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE.

P R E FACE.

On prefcnling this Volume to niy Countr)', it is not necefiary to entei
into a particular account of thofe voyages whofc journals form the prin-
cipal part of it, as they will be found, I trull, to explain themfclves.
It appears, however, to be a duty, whicli the Public have a right to
cxpefl from me, to Rate the reafons which have influenced me in
delaying the publication of them.

It has been all'erted, that a mifunderHanding between a perfon high
in oHice and myfclf, was the caufc of this procraftination. It has alfo
been propagated, that it was occafioned by that precaution which the
policy of commerce will fbmctimes fuggeil ; but they are both equally
devoid of foundation. The one is an idle tale; and there could be no
folid realon for concealing the circumflances of difcoveries, whofe
arrangements and profecution were fo honourable to my affociales and
myfeir, at whofe expcnce they were undertaken. The delay actually
arofe from the very atlive and buly mode of life in which I was engaged
fmce the voyages have been completed ; and when, at length, the op-
portunity arrived, the apprehenfion of prefenting myfelf to the Public
in the charaftcr of an Author, for which the courfr and occupations of

A 2 11^'

PREFACE.

my life have bv no menns qualified mc, made mc hentate in committing
my papers to tlir Prefi ; being much btticr calculated to perform the
voyages, arduous as they might be, than to write an account of them.
However, thev are now offered to tlie I'ublic ...ih the fubmilllon that
become, mc.

I was led, at nn early period of life, by commercial views, to the
country North-Well oi' Lake Suj)erior, in North Ajnerica, and being
endowed by Nature with an incpiilitivc mind and entcrprifing Ipirit ;
poilelhng alio a conlliiulion and irame ol body cijual to the mofl
arduous undertakiiigs, and being famihar with toilfc'me exertions in the
profecution of mcivaniile puri'.uts, I not only contemplated the practi-
cability of pcni'lrating acrofs the continent of America, but, was con-
fident in the qualifications, as I was animated by the delirc, to undertake
the pciilous entcrpri/.e.

['^

The general utility of fuch a difcovcvy, has been univerfally ac-
knowledged; w]'. lie the wifhes of my particular friends and commercial
affociates, that I Ihould proceed in the ptnluit (^^' u, contributed to
quicken the execution of this faNourile pr( jeft of my own ambition:
and as the compieiioii of i' extends the liouitdarics of geograi^hic
Icience, and adds new countries to the realms (d j>ritdh ( onnnt rce,
the danger I have encountered, and the toils I have lullered, have found
their recompence; nor will the many tedious and weary days, or the
gloomy and inclement nights which 1 have palled, luve been pulled
in vain.

The

PREFACE. V

The fir'} voyage has ' 'led the dubious point of a praflicable North.
Wefl j}afragc; ;ind I tru(f, that it has let tliat long agitated qucftion at
relt, and c.\tin<ruilhed the dilputes refpf^ling it for ever. An enlarged
difciiihon of tiiat fuhjeft will be I'ound to occupy the concluding pages
of this volume.

In this voyage, I was not only without the neccdiry books and inftru-
nients, but alio I; It nn li'IF delicicnt in the Icipnces of allrononiy and
navigation: I did not licliiate, therefore, to undertake a winter's voyage
to this countfy, in order to j)rocure the one and acquire the otlier.
Thefe objeH.s being aceomplilhed, I returned, to determine the pracli-
cability of a eotnmercial communication through the continent of
North America, between the Atlantic and Pacilic Oceans, wliich is
proved bv mv lecond journal. Nor do I helitatc to declare my decided
opinion, that very great and elfential advantages may be derived by ex-
tending our trade liom one lea to the other.

Some account of the fur trnde of Canada from that country, df the
native inhabitants, and of tij- cxtcnnvc dilhicls connecled with it,
forms a preliminary djfcourle, which will, I trull, prove interefling to
a nation whole general policy is blcndinl with, and whole profperity is
fupportcd bv, the purluits of commerce. It will alfo qualify the reader
to purfuc the fuccceding voyages with luperior intelligence and fatisfac-
tion.

Thele voyages wil! nc>t, I fear, alford the varie(\' that mav be ex-
pcdcd from them; and that which they olfered to the eye, is rot of n

nature

P R E F A C E.

\)\

nature to be effedlually transferred to the page. Mountains and vallies,
the dreary wade, and wide-fpreading forefts, the lakes and rivcrsfic-
ceed each other in general defcription ; and, except on the coalls of the
Pacific Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the nihabitants
in a great mealure ilationary, fmall bands of wandering Indians arc
the only people whom I fhall introduce to the acquaintance of my
readers.

The beaver and tlio budalo, the moofe-dcer and the elk, which are
the principal animals to be found in tliele countries, ure already fo
familiar to the naturalills o( Europe, and have bc:cn lb often as well as
corredly defcribed in their works, thai the baie mentiiMi of them, as
they enlivened the landicape, or were huntid for food; with a cur-
fory account of the foil, the courle and navigation of lakes and rivers,
and their various produce, is all lliat can be realonably e\pedcd from
me.

I do not pollers the fcience of the natuialill; and even if the
fiualilications of that charadir hud been attained by nn\ us curious
fpirit would not have been graliiird. I could not lloj) to dig into
the earth, over whofe furfacr I was compelled to jjals with rapid
fleps; nor could 1 turn alirk' to colWii llic planls wliicli nature
niiglit have Icattered on the way, when my ilioughts wiic anxi-
o'.idy employed in making provilion lor ilu; dav that was paihng
over mc. I had to encounter perils by land .iiui p< iils by water; to
watch the favage who was our ;;uide, or to guard a-ainll tliofe of his
tribe who might medilaic our dclLiudion. 1 had, alio, the pallions and

lears

PREFACE.

vfi

feais of others to control and fubdue. To day I had to aflbage the
rifing difcontents, and on the morrow to cheer the fivinting fpirits, of
the people who accompanied mc. The toil of our navigation was in-
ccflant , and oftentiincs extreme ; and in our progrels over land we
had no protetiion from the fcverity of the elements, and poflefTed no
accommodations or conveniences but fuch as could be contained in
the burden on our fliouldcrs, which aggravated the toils of our march,
and addcil to the wcarifomcnefs of our way.

'if

Thougli the events which compofe my journals may have little in
thcmlclvcs to flrikc the imagination of thofe who love to be a(toni(hcd,
or to gratify the curiolity of Rich as arc enamoured of romantic adven-
tures; neverthelefs, when it is ooniidered that I explored thole waters
which had never hclore borne anv other vell'el than the canoe of the
favage; and traverled thofe defcrts where an European had never before
prelented himfelf t(^ the eye of it^, fwanhy natives ; when to thefe
confiderations are addctl the important objects which were purfued,
with the dangers that were encountered, and the diHicultics that
were furmounted to attain them, this work will, I flatter myfelf, be
found to excite an intercfl, and conciliate regard, in the minds of
thofe who pcrufe it.

The general map which illufi rates this volume, is reduced by Mr.
Arrowlniith from his three-lheet map of North-America, with the latcfl:
difcoveries, which he is about to republifli. His profeflional abilites arc
well known, and no encomium of mine will advance the general and
merited opinion of them.

Be lore

VI n

P R K V A C E.

.....4,,

Before I roncludo. I mad hcg leave to inform my readers; that they
are not to expcd the cluu ms of cnibelhflied luinative, or animated de-
feripiion: the approbation due to fimplicity and to truth is all I prcfume
to claim; and I am not \vitho',it the hope that this claim will bo allowed
me. I have defcribed whatever 1 (iiw with the imprelFions of the moment
which ))refenLed it to ir.e. The fncceflive circumRances of my progrefs
are related without exaggeration or difplay. I have icldom allowed my-
felf to wander into conjerture; and whenever conje£lure has been in
dulged. it will be found, 1 truO, to be accompanied with the temper of a
man \m.o is nut Jilpoled to think too highly of himfelf: and if at any
time I have delivered myfelt with confidence, it will appear, I hope, to
be on thofe fuLjc(f;i,s which, from the habits and experience of my liie,
will juflilV an imreferved eommimication of my opinions. I am
noL a candidate tor literary fame: at the fame time, I cannot but in-
dulge the hope that this volume, with all its imperfet'lions, will
vot be thouglit unworthy the attention ol the leientihc geographer;
and that, by unfolding countries hitherto unexplored, and which, 1 prc-
fume, may now be confidered as apart of the Uriiiih doimnions, it wdl
be received as a iaiihful tribute to the profperity of my country.

ALEXANDER xMACKENZIE.

London,
November 30, 1801.

j**^

■^

! -• .'. •

I • • ••■ • I

t • • • * ,

't!

GENERAL HISTORY

OF THE

FUR TRADE

FROM

CANADA TO THE NO RTH-WEST.

X HE t'ur trade, from the carlieft fettlement of Canada, was confidered
of the firft importanrp to that colony. The country was then fo
populous, that, in the vicinity of the efhibliOiments, the animals
whofe fkins were precious, in a commercial view, foon became very
fcarce, if not altogether cxtinft. They were, it is true, hunted at
former periods, but merely for food and clAtliing. The Indians, there-
fore, to procure the neceffary fupply, were encouraged to penetrate into
the country, and were generally accompanied by lome of the Cana-
dians, who found means to induce the remotell: tribes of natives to
bi.'ig the (kins which were molt in demand, to their fcttlcments, in the
way of trade.

It is not nccefl'aiy for me to examine the caufe, but experience proves
that it requires much iefs lime lor a eivili/.cd people to deviate into

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i -I

A GENERAL HISTORY

'■^

the manners and cufloms of favage life, than for favages to rife into
a ftate of civilization. Such was the event with thofe who thus accom-
panied the natives on their hunting and trading excurfions; for they
became fo attached to the Indian mode of life, that they loft all relifh
for their former habits and native homes. Hence they derived the title
of Coureurs des Bois, became a kind of pedlars, and were extremely
ufeful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade; who gave them
the necefTary credit to proceed on their commercial undertakings.
Three or four of thefe people would join their ftock, put their pro-
perty into a birch-bark canoe, which they worked themfelves, and
either accompanied the natives in their excurfions, or went at once to
the country where they knew they were to hunt. At length, thefe
voyages extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with
rich cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of the natives.
During the (hort tinje requifite to fettle their accounts with the mer-
chants, and procure frefh credit, they generally contrived to fquander
away all their gains, when they returned to renew their favourite mode
of life : their views being anfwered, and their labo... fufficiently rewarded,
by indulging themfelves in extravagance and diHipation during the fliort
fpace of one month in twelve or fifteen. ,,, viislbT^n 'ivt -vwi'^.Qiq oj mot

This indifference about amaffing property, and the pleafure of living
free from all reflraint, foon brought on a licentioufnefs of manners which
could not long efcape the vigilant obfervation of the milfionaries, who
had much reafon to complain of their being a difgrace to the Chrif-
tian religion ; by not only fwerving from its duties themlelvcs, but by
mti fB'Ovti. ., ,.;.... ~ ixmiii 'i^mpy. thus.

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

thus bringing it into difrepute with thofc of the natives who had become
converts to it ; and, confequently, obftrufting the great obje6l to which
thofe pious men had devoted their Hves. They, therefore, exerted their
influence to procure the fuppreflion of thefe people, and accordmgly, no
one was allowed to go up the country to traffic with the Indians, without
a licence from the government. f> b\>7t!^\i}h ,n:}'i<)vihtni i rr! --ylf

' At firfl: thefe permifTions were, of courfe, granted only to thofe whofe
chara6lerwas fuch as could give no alarm to the zeal of the mifljonaries :
but they were afterwards bellowed as rewards for fervices, on officers, and
their widows ; and they, who were not willing or able to make ufe of them^
(which may be fuppofed to be always the cafe with thofc of the latter
defcription) were allowed to fell them to the merchants, who neceflarily
employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality of their, agents ; and thefe
people, as may be imagined, gave fufficient caufe ibr the renewal of
former complaints ; fo that the remedy proved, in fa£l, worfe than the
dileafe. . Jv rr iff;,i/;j,hn i .

At length, military polls were eftabliflied at the confluence of the dif-
ferent large lakes of Canada, which, in a great meafure, checked the
evil confequences that followed from the improper conduft of thefe
forefters, and, at the fame time, prote6led the trade. Befides, a number
of able and refpe6lable men retired from the army, profecuted the trade
in perfon, under their refpedive licences, with great order and regu-
larity, and extended it to fuch a dillance, as, in thofe days, was coiifi-
dered to be an aftonifliing effort of commercial enterprize. Thefe per-
fons and the miffionaries having combined their views at the fame

V«r-* ^ ] '■*■ ^

a 2

time,

^■

A GENERAL HISTORY >

Iv, ^^

time, fecured the refpeft of the natives, and the obedience of the people
neceffarily employed in the laborious parts of this undertaking. Thefe
gentlemen denominated themfelves commanders, and not traders, though
they were intitled to both thofe cliaratlers : and, as for the milTionaries,"
if fufferings and hardfhips in the profecution of the great work which
they had undertaken, deferved applaufe and admiration, they had an
undoubted claim to be admired and applauded : they fpared no labour
and avoided no danger in the execution of their important office ; and
it is to be ferioufly lamented, that their pious endeavours did not meet
with the fuccefs which they deferved : for there is hardly a trace to be
found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious fun6lions. w'uvju

The caufe of this failure muft be attributed to a want of due confi-
deration in the mode employed by the miffionaries to propagate the
religion of which they were the zealous minilters. They habituated
themfelves to tlie fiivage life, and naturaliled themfelves to the favage
manners, and, by thus becoming dependant, as it were, on the natives, they
acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. If they had been
as well acquainted wiih human nature, as they were with the articles of
their faith, they would have known, that liie uncultivated mind of an
Indian muft be difpofed by much preparatory method and inllruftion to
receive the revealed truths of ChriUianity, to atl under its fanftions, and
be impelled to good by the hope of its reward, or turned from evil by
the fear of its puniUiments. 'J hey (liould have began their work by
teaching fome of thofe ufeful arts which are the inlets of knowledge, and
lead the mind by degrees to obje6ls of higher coniprehenfion. Agricul-
ture fo formed to iix and combine fociety, and [o preparttlory to
5 objetU

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. v

objefls of faperior confideration, ftiould have been the firft thing intro-
duced among a lavage people: it attaches the wandering tribe to that
fpot where it adds fo much to their comforts; while it gives them a fenfe
of property, and of lafling pofireflTion, inftead of the uncertain hopes
of the chafe, and the fugitive produce of uncuUivated wilds. Such
were the means by which the forells of Paraguay were converted into a
fcene of abundant cultivation, and its favage inhabitants introduced to
all the advantages of a civilized life. , ; ^ i .. .^ , ;.. .._,

• The Canadian miflTionaries fhould have been contented to improve the
morals of their own countryman, fo that by meliorating their charader
and conduft, they would have given a llriking example of the effcd of
religion in promoting the comforts of life to the furrounding favages;
and might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the remottft
regions of that country, which was the objeft, and intended to be the
fcene, of their evangelic labours. But by bearing the light of the
Gofpcl at once to thedillanceof two thoufand five hundred nnles from
the civilized part of ihe colonies, it was foon obfcured by the cloud of
ignorance mat darkened the human mind in thofe dillant regions, ,t ^,
I'} 'ii.i'i iKfi\buli fturi^ ohiini Mi-jv/ » rmf ♦>*!*! /»«j .inls . 1 i.- •;/<»»

. The whole of iheir long route I have ofun travelled, and the recol-
lection of fuch a people as the milfionaries having been there, wascon-*
fined to a few fuperannuated Canadians, who had nut left that country
fnue tlh teUion to the Englifh, in 1763, and who particularly mentioned
the death of fome, and the dillrrHing fituaiion of ihom all. liut if thele
religious njcn did not attain the objefcls of their pcrfeverirjg piety, iluy
were, during their niillion, of great fervicc to the commanders who

engaged

.<*'.;

A GENERAL HISTORY >

engaged in thofe diftant expeditions, and fpread the fur trade as far
Wed as the banks of the Safkatchiwine river, in 53. North latitude, and
longitude 102 Weft. ■ vHn^I.i: rli zi.ht i'm-^dif i.tq}

fi X. !,,..,.{',.

:»j..!

At an early period of their intercourfe with the favages, a cuftom was
introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately dif-
continued, of not felling any fpirituous liquor to the natives. This
admirable regulation was for fome time obferved, with all the refpe6l
due to the religion by which it was lanftioned, and whofe fevereft cen-
fures followed the violation of it. A painful penance could alone reftore
the offender to the fufpended rites of the facrament. The cafuillry of
trade, however, difcovered a way to gratify the Indians with their favour-
ite cordial, without incurt'ing the ecclef'aUical penalties, by giving,
inftead of felling it to them. ' "•.•«•' -••" ....,.«

' But notwithftanding all the re(lri6lions with which commerce was
opprefTed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to
the immenfe diftance which has been already i^ated; and lurmounted
many moft difcouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed ;
while, at the fame time, no exertions were made from Hudfon's Bay to
obtain even a fharc of the trade of a country which, according to the
charter of that company, belonged to it, and, from its proximity, is fo
much more acceflible to the mercantile adventurer. '» « • - ^' ■• *=

Ofthefc trading conimandcrs, I undorftood, that two attempted to
penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but •.iie utmoft extent of their journey I
could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a failure of the

undertaking.

For

Of THE FUR TRADE.

:i For Tome time after the conqueft of Canada, this trade was fufpended,
wliich mufl have been very advantageous to the Hudfon's Bay Com-
pany, as all the inhabitants to the Wellward of Lake Superior^ were
obliged to go to them for fuch articles as thejr h«lbitual ufe had rendered
neceflary. Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and
were become attached to a favage life, accompanied them thither annually,
till mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own country, after
an interval of ieveral years, owing, as I fuppofe, to an ignorance of the
country in the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence in
the conquered. There were, indeed, other difcouragements, fuch as
the inimenfe length of the journey neceflary to reach the limits beyond
which this commerce mull begin ; the rifk of property ; the expences
attending fuch a long tranfport; and an ignorance of the language of
thole who, from their experience, muil be necefl'arily employed as the
intermediate agents between them and the natives. But, notwithrtand-
ingthefe ditliculties, the trade, by degrees, began to fpread over the dif-
ferent parts to which it had been carried by the French, though at a
great rifk of the lives, as well as the property, of their new poflefilbrs,
for the natives had been taught by their former allies to entertain hoflile
difpofitions towards the Englifh, from their having been in alliance with
their natural enemies the Iroquois ; and there were not wanting a fuHicient
number of difconiented, difappointed people to keep alive fuch a notion;
fo that for a long time they were confidered and treated as obje61s of
hoHility. To prove this dilpofition of the Indians, we have only to
refer to the condufc), of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the lurprife and taking
of Michilimakinac, about this period, -! f< |i •v*'/?

i\ iWi.^l

■•iM '»1'm(^.'

'fii;l(?V'

jnu

Hence

ivm

A GENERAL HISTORY

Hence it arofe, that it was fo late as the year i jS6, before which, the
trade I mean to confider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The firft
who attempted itwerefatisfied to go the length of ihe River Cameniftiquia,
about thirty miles to the Eaftward of the Grande Portiige, where the
French had a principal eftablilhment, and was the line of their communi-
cation with the interior country. It was once deftroyed by fire. Here
they went and returned fuccefsful in the following fpring to Michilima-
kinac. Their fuccefs induced them to renew their journey, and incited
others to follow their example. Some of them remained at Camenifti-
quia, while others proceeded to and beyond the Grande Poirage, which,
fince that time has become the principal entrepot of that trade, and is
fituated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. Weft. After
■pafling the ufual feafon there, they went back to Michilimakinac as
; before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increafed numbers. One
of thefe, Thomas Curry, with a fpirit of enterprize fuperior to that of
his contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthell limits of the
French difcoveries in that country; or at leaft till the froft fliould flop
him. For this purpofe lie procured guides and interpreters, who were
acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at Fort
Bourbon, which was one of their pofts, at the Weft end of the Cedar
Lake, on the waters of the Safkatchiwine. His rilk and toil were well re-
compciifed, for he came back the following fpring with his canoes filled
with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and was falisfied never
again to return to the Indian country. ... , . .vlj 'l^.i

From this period people began to fpread over every j^art of the coun-
try, particulaily where the French iuid cHablidied fcttlnnenis,
•)'j<i"U Mr. James

fe,-a

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Mr. James Finlay was the firft who followed Mr. Curry's example,
and with the fame number of canoes, arrived, in the courfe of the next
fealbn, at Nipawee, the laft of the French fettlements on the bank of
the Salkatchiwine River, in latitude nearly 43-1- North, and longitude
103 Weft: he found the good fortune, as he followed, in every refpefl,
the example, of his predeceffor.

As may be fuppofed, there were now people enough ready to replace
them, and the trade was purfued with fuch avidity, and irregularity, that
in a few years it became the reverfe of what it ought to have been. An
animated competition prevailed, and the contendmg parties carried the
trade beyond the French limits, though with no benefit to themfelves or
neighbours, the Hudfon's-Bay Company; who in the year 1774, and
not till then, thought proper to move from home to the Eall bank of
Sturgeon Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 102. 15. Weft,
and became more jealous of their fellow fubjefls; and, perhaps, with
more caufe, than they had been of thofe of France. From this period
to the prefent time, they have been following the Canadians to their
diflerent eftabli(hments, while, on the contrary, there is not a folitary
indance that the Canadians have followed them ; and there are many
trading pods which they have not yet attained. This, however, will no
longer be a myftery when the nature and policy of the Hudfon's-Bay
Company is compared with that which has been purfued by their rivals
in this trade. — But to return to my fubjcft.

This comj)ctltion, which has been already mentioned, gave a fatal
blow to the trade from Canada, and, with other incidental caufcs, in my

b opinion,

^l f'i

X A GENERAL HISTORY

opinion, contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on in a very
diftant country, out of the reach of legal reftraint, and where there was a
free fcope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage. The
confequence was not only the lofs of commercial Jjenefit to the perfons
engaged in it, but of the good opinion of the natives, and the refpeft of
their men, who were inclined to follow their example ; fo that with drink-
ing, caroufing, and quarrelling with the Indians along their route, and
among themfelves, they feldom reached their winter quarters; and if they
dio, it was generally by dragging their property upon fledges, as the
navigation was clofcd up by the froP. When at length they were
arrived, the obje61 of each was to injui his rival traders in the opinion
of the natives as much as was in their power, by mifreprefentation and
prefents, for which the agents employed were peculiarly calculated.
They confidered the command of their mployer as binding on them,
and however wron£; or irregular the tranfaftion, the refponfibility reftcd
with the principal who direfted them. This is Indian law. Thus did
they wafle their credit and their property with the natives, till the (irft
was pad redemption, and the lafl was nearly exhaulled ; fo that towards
the fpring in each year, the rival parties found it abfolutely neceflary
to join, and make one common ftock of what remained, for the pur-
pofe of trading with the natives, who could entertain no refpefl for
perfons who had condutted themfelves with fo much irregularity and
deceit. The winter, therefore was one continued fcene of difagreements
and quarrels. If any one had the precaution or good fenfe to keep clear
of thefe proceedings, he derived a proportionable advantage from 'lis
good condu6t, and frequently proved a peace-maker between the parties.
To fuch au height had ihcy carried this licentious condu6l, that they

were

OF THE FUR TRADjE, «Scc.

were in a continual ftate of alarm, and were even Frequently flopped to
pay tribute on their route into the country ; though they had adopted
the plan of travelling together in parties of thirty or forty canoes, and
keeping their men armed ; which fometimes, indeed, proved neceflary
for their defence, ..^^ l.u • .i -

Thus was the trade carried on for feveral years, and confequently be-
f oming worfe and worfe, fo that the partners, who met them at the
Grande Portage, naturally complained of their ill fuccefs. Bui fpecious
reafons were always ready to prove that it arofe from circum fiances
which they could not at that time control ; and encouragements were
held forth to hope that a change would foon take place, which would
make ample amends for pafl difappointments. >.« .' . i;

It was about this time, that Mr. Joleph Frobifher, one of the gentlemen
engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet
unexplored, to the North and Weftward, and, in the fpring of the year
1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill,
at Portage de Traite, fo named from that circumflance on the banks of
the MifTmipi, or Churchill River, latitude 55. 25. North, longitude 103I.
Weft. It was, indeed, with fome difficulty ihat he could induce them
10 trade with him, but he at length procured as many furs as his
canoes could carry. In this perilous expedition he fuftained every
kind of hardfhip incident to a journey through a wild and lavage
country, where his fubfillcnce aepended on what the woods and the
waters produced. Thefe difficulties, neverthelefs, did not difcourage
him from returning in the following year, when he W4»" equally fucccTsful.
, . . h2 He

L2£as2

l',f i

. I

Xll

A GENERAL HISTORY

He then fent his brother to explore the country ftill further Wefl, who
penetrated as far as the lake of Hie a la Croix, in latitude 55. 26. North,
and longitude 108 Weft. • ' - >

He, however, never after wintered among the Indians, though he
retained a large intereft in the trade, and a principal ftiare in the direc-
tion of it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his
labours; and, bv his hofpitality, became known to every refpeftable
ftranger who vifited Canada. , 'W' ;i. ,';ijja -j. <,; . , <^

The fuccefs of this gentleman induced others to follow his example,
and in the fpring of the year 1778, fome of the traders on the Safkat-
chiwine River, finding they had a quantity of goods to fpare, agreed to
put them into a joint ftoci , and gave the charge and management of
them to Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was direfted to enter the
EngliCh River, fo called by Mr. Frobifher, to follow his track, and proceed
ftill further; if poffible, to Athabafca, a country hitherto unknown but
from Indian report. In this enterprife he at length fucceeded, and
pitched his tent on the banks of the Elk River, by him erroneoufly called
the Athabafca River, about thirty miles from the Lake of the Hills, into
which it empties itfdf.

Here he pafled the winter of 1778-9; faw a vaft concourfe of the
Kniftcneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who ufed to carry their furs annually
to Churchill ; the latter by the barren grounds, where they f uffered in-
numerable hardfliips, and were fometimes even ftarved to death. The
former followed the courfe of the lakes and rivers, through a country

that

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

xni

•I

.^1

that abounded in animals, and where there was plenty of fifh : but
though they did not fufFer from want of food, the intolerable fatigue of
fuch a journey could not be eafily repaid to an Indian : they were, there-
fore, highly gratified by feeing people come to their country to relieve
them from fuch long, toilfome, and dangerous journies; and were im-
mediately reconciled to give an advanced price for the articles neceflary
to their comfort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and fuccels
was accordingly beyond his expeflation ; and he procured twice as
many furs as his canoes would carry. They alfo fupplied him with as
much provifion as he required during his refidence among them, and
Tufficient for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not
embark, he fecured in one of his winter huts, and they were found the
following feafon, in the fame ftate in which he left them. , , > •

■ ^

Thefe, however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent
the people of Canada from feeing the improper conduct of fome of their
affociates, which rendered it dangerous to remain a;iy longer among the
natives. Moft of them who palled the winter at the Safkatchiwine, gpt
to the Eagle hills, where, in the fpring of the year 1782, a few days pre-
vious to their intended departure, a large band of Indians being engaged
in drinking about their houfes, one of the traders, to eafe himfelf of the
troublelbme importunities of a native, gave him a dofe of laudanum in
a glafs of grog, which effetlually prevented him from giving further
trouble to any one, by fetting him alleep for ever. This accident pro-
duced a fray, in which oiie of the traders, and fevcral of tiie men, were
killed, while the rell had no other means to (ave themielvcs but by a
precipitate flight, abandoning a conliderable quantity of goods, aiul
* near

U I

XIV

A GENERAL HISTORY

near half the furs which they lad co)le6led during the winter and the
fpring. ' =• 's» :; ri!^,- . ■ ;.

About the fame time, two of the eftablifhments on the Affiniboin
river, were attacked with iefs juitice, when feveral white men, and a
greater number of Indians were killed. In fhort, it appeared, that the
natives had formed a refolution to extirpate the traders ; and, without
entering 'nto any further reafonings on the fubje6l, it appears to be in-
controvertible, that the irregularity purfued in carrying on the trade has
brought it into its prefent forlorn fituation ; and nothing but the greateft
calamity that could have befallen the natives, laved the traders from
deftrudlion : this was the fmall pox, which fpread its d"?irii61tive and
defolating power, as the fire confumes the dry grafs of the field. The
fatal infeflion fpread around with a baneful rapidity which no flight
could efcape, and with a fatal efFeft that nothing could refift. It de-
flroyed with its peflilential breath whole families and tribes ; and the
horrid fcene prefented to thofe who had the melancholy and afflifting
opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead, the dying, and
fuch as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around them, pre-
pared to difappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their own
exiltence.

:i 'f

The habits and lives of thefe devoted people, which provided not to-
day for the wants of to-morrow, mufl have heightened the pains of fuch
an affliftion, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without
alleviation. Nought was left them but to fubmit in agony and defpair.

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

To aggravate the pi6lure, if aggravation were poffible, may be added,
the putrid carcafes which the wolves, with a furious voracity, dragged
forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the dogs,
whofe hunger was fatisfied with the disfigured remains of their mailers.
Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the infe6lion
had not reached, to call them around him, to reprefent the cruel fuffer-
ings and horrid fate of their relations, from the influence of fome evil
fpirit who was preparing to extirpate their race ; and t.; incite them to
baffle death, with all its horrors, by their own poniards. At the fame
lime, if their hearts failed them in this neceflary a6l, he was himfelf
ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the lad a6l
of his affeftion, and inttantly to follow them to the common place of
reft and refuge from human evil.

It was never fatisfa£lorily afcertamed by what means this malignant
diforder was introduced, but it was generally fuppofed to be from the
Mifliflbaic, by a war party.

The confequence of this melancholy event to the traders muft be
felf-evident ; the means of difpofing of their goods were cut off; and no
furs were obtained, but fuch as had been gathered from the habitations
of the deceafed Indians, which could not be very confiderable : nor did
they look from the loffes of the prefent year, with any en< ouragmg ex
peftations to t^ofe which were to come. The only fortunate people
confifted of a party who had again penetrated to the Northward and
Weft ward in 1780, at fome dillance up the Miffinipi, or hnglifh River,

i«h

XVI

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

to Lake la Rouge. Two unfortunate circumftances, however, happened
to them; which are as follow. . rv-^ -'; 1 . ti . • .-^

Mr. Wadin, a Swifs gentleman, of ftrift probity and known fobriety,
had gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the fummer 1780.
His partners and others, engaged in an oppofite intereft, wiicu at the
Grande Portage, agreed to fend a quantity of goods on their joint ac-
count, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was propofed by them to be
their reprefentative to aft in conjunftion with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of
more oppofite charafters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In (hort
from various caufes, their fituations became very uncomfortable to each
other, and mutual ill-will was the natural confequence: without enter-
ing, therefore, into a minute hiftory of thefe tranfa£lions, it will be fuf-

ient to obferve, that, about the end of the year 1780, or the begin-
ning of the year 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his
own clerks to dinner ; and, in the courfe of the night, the former was
Ihot through the lower part of the thigh, when it was faid that he ex-
pired from the lofs of blood, and was buried next morning at eight
o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were tried for this murder at Mon-
treal, and acquitted : neverthelefs, their innocence was not fo apparent
as to extinguilh the original fufpicion.

The other circumflance was this. In the fpring of the year, Mr.
Pond fent the abovementioned clerk to meet the Indians from the
Northward, who ufed to go annually to Hudfon's Bay; when he eafily
perfuadcd them to trade with him, and return back, that they might not
(■,. ' take

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

xvii

take the contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eailward
of them : but moft unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with
them, to the deflruftion of themfelves and the neighbouring tribes.

The country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends
from Canada, who, from various caufes already mentioned, were very
much reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began
ferioufly to think of making permanent eltablifhments on the Miflinipi
river, and at Athabafca ; for which purpofe, in 1781-2, they fele6led their
bed canoe-men, being ignorant that the fmall pox penetrated that way.
The moft expeditious party got only in time to the Portage la Loche,
or Mithy-Ouinigam Portage, which divides the waters of the Miflinipi from
thofe that fall into the Elk river, to difpatch one canoe ftrong handed,
and light-loaded, to that country ; but, on their arrival there, they
found, in every direftion, the ravages of the fmall pox ; fo that,
from the great diminution of the natives, they returned in the fpring
with no more than feven packages of beaver. The ftrong woods and
mountainous countries afforded a refuge to thofe who fled from the
contagion of the plains ; but they were fo alarmed at the furrounding
deftiuftion, that they avoided the traders, and were difpirited from hunt-
ing except for their fubfiftence. The traders, however, who returned
into the country in the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in feme fort
of tranquillity, and more numerous than they had reafon to expeft, fo
that their fuccefs was proportionably better.

During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in
this trade, formed a junftion of interefts, under the name of the North-

C Weft

I •

■ '

tJBm

U ]

XVlll

A GENERAL HISTORY

Well Company, and divided it into fixteen (hares, without depofiting any
capital ; each party furnidiing a proportion or quota of fuch articles as
were neceflary to carry on the trade : the refpeftive parties agreeing
to i'atisFy the friends they had in the country, who were not provided for,
accordin<^ to this agreement, out of the proportions which they held.
The management of the whole was accordingly entruded to Meffrs. Ben-
jamin and Jofeph Frobifher, and Mr. Simon M'TaviQi, two diflin6l
houles, who had the great H: intereft and influence in the country, and for
which they were to receive a (lipulated commiffion in all tranfaftions.

In the fpring, two of thofe gentlemen went to the Grande Portage
with their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the parties
having an option, except Mr, Peter Pond, who was not fatisfied with
the (hare allotted him. Accordingly he, and another gentleman, Mr. Peter
Pangman, who had a rig>t to be a partner, but for whom no provifion
had been made, came to Canada, with a determination to return to the
country, if they could find any pcrfons to join them, and give their fcheme
a proper fiipport. . . , , ,• ,:-:;.•,.. : . .5 ,

The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus en-
tered into a co-partnerfhip, which, by thcfe means, was confolidated
and direOed by able men, who, from the powers with which they were
entrufled, could carry on the trade to the utmofl extent it would
bear. The traders in the country, therefore, having every reafon
to expeft that their pad and future labours would be recompcnfed, for-
got all their former animofitics, and engaged with the utmoll I'pirit and
a6livity, to forward the general intercil; fo that| in the following year,

' they

i»'..

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

XIX

they met their agents at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden
with rich furs from the different parts of that imraenfe tra6l of country.
But this fatisfaSion was not to be enjoyed without fome interruption;
and they were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed on
Meffrs. Gregory and Macleod to join him, and give him their fupport
in the bufineCs, though deferted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms
offered by his former affociates. >

In the counting houfe of Mr. Gregory I had been five years; and at
this period had left liin., with a fmaij adventure of goods, with which
he had entrulled me, to leek my fortune at Detroit. He, without
any folicitation on my part, had procured an infertion in the agree-
ment, that I fhould be admitted a partner in this bufinefs, on con-
dition that I would proceed to the Indian country in the following
fpring, 1785, His partner came to Detroit to make me fuch a propo-
fition. I readily alfented to it, and immediately proceeded to the
Grande Portage, where I joined my affociates.

'■!l

We now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the
undertaking, we fliould have to encounter every other which they, who
were already in poffeffion of the trade of the country, could throw in
our way, and which their circumffanccs enabled them to do. Nor did
they doubt, from their own luperior experience, as well as that of their
clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and its
inhabitants, that they fhould foon compel us to leave the coun-
try to them. The event, however, did not juHify their expecta-
tions; for, after the feverefl flruggle ever known in that pari of the

woi

id.

A GENERAL HISTORY

1 ^

li A f

I 1

Uf;

world, and fuffeiing every oppreflion which a jealous and rival fpirit could
inftigatc; aCier the murder of one of our partners, thclaming of another,
and the narrow efcapc of one of our clerks, who received a bullet
through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they were com-
pelled to allow us a (hare of the trade. As wc had already incurred a
lofs, this union was, in every refpe6l, a defirable event to us, and was
concluded in the month of July 1787. ... •.

This commercial eflablifliment was now founded on a more I'olid bafis
than any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued
in full force, vigour, and profpcriiy, in i'pitc of all interference from
Canada, but maintained at leall an equal fhare of advantage with the
Hudfon's-Bay Company, notwithUanding the fuperiority of their local
fituation. The following account of this felf-ere6ted concern will mani-

fell the caufe of its fuccefs. . : .it

t . ' ' '

It afl'umcd the title of the North-Wefl; Company, and was no
more than an alTociaiion of commercial men, agreeing among them-
lelves to carry on the fur trade, unconnc6led with any other bufincfs,
though many of the parties engaged had extenfive concerns alto-
gether foreign to it. It may be faid to have been fupi)ortcd entirely
upon credit ; for, whether the capital belonged to the proprietor^ or was
borrowed, it equally bore intcrcll, for which the affociation was annually
accountable. It confilled of twenty (hares, unequally divided amongi
the perfons concerned. Of thele, a certain proportion was held by
the people who managed the bufinefs in Canada, and were Ilylcd agents
for the Company. Their duty was to import the ncccdary goods from

England

•^ ?

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

XXI

England, ftore them at their own expence at Montreal, get them made
up into the articles fuited to the trade, pack and forward them, and
fupply the cafli that might be wanting for the outfits ; for which they
received, independent of the profit on their (hares, a commiflion on the
amount of the accounts, which they were obliged to make out annually,
and keep the adventure of each year diftinft. Two of them went an-
nually to the Grande Portage, to manage and tranfaft the bufinefs
there, and on the communication at Detroit, Michiliraakinac, St. Mary's,
and Montreal, where they received (lores, packed up, and fhipped the
company's furs for England, on which they had alio a fmall commifTion.
The remaining (hares were held by the proprietors, who were obliged to
winter and manage the bufinefs of the concern with the Indians, and their
refpeflive clerks, &c. They were notfuppofed to be under any obliga-
tion to furni(h capital, or even credit. If they obtained any capital by
the trade, it was to remain in the hands of the agents ; for which they were
allowed intereft. Some of them, from their long fervices and influence,
held double (hares, and were allowed to retire from the bufinefs at any
period of the exifting concern, with one of thofe (hares, naming any
young man in the company's fcrvice to fucceed him in the other. Se-
niority and merit were, however, confidered as affording a claim to the
fuccelfion, which, ncverthelefs, could not be difpofcd of without the con-
currence of the majority of the concern ; who, at the fame time relieved
the feceding perfon from any refponfibility relpcding the (hare tiiat he
transferred, and accounted for it according to the atniual value or rate of
the property; fo that the feller could have no advanttigc but that of get-
ting the (hare of ttock which he retained rcalilcd, and receiving lor the
transferred (hare what was fairly determined to be the worth of it. I he
• / former

xxii

A GENERAL HISTORY

former was alfo difcharged from all duty, and became a dormant part-
ner. Thus, all the young men who were not provided ibr at the begin-
ning of the contraft, fucceeded in fucceflTion to the chara61er and advan-
tages of partners. They entered '*^to the Company's fer'Mce for five or
feven years, under fuch expe6lations, and their reafonable ^ rofpe£ls were
feldom difappointed : there were, indeed, inllances when they fucceeded
to {hares, before their apprenticcfliip was expired, and it frequently hap-
pened that they were provided for while they were in a ftate of articler"
clerkftiip. Shares were transfeiTable only to the concern at large, as no
perfon could be admitted as a partner who had not ferved his time to
the trade. The dormant partner indeed might difpofe of his intereft to
any one he chofe, but if the tranfaClion were not acknowledged by his
adbciates, the purchafer could only be confidered as his agent or attor-
ney. Every (hare had a vote, and two thirds formed a majority. .This
regular and equitable mode of providing for the clerks of the company,
excited a fpiril of emulation in the difcharge of their various duties, and
in faft, made every agent a principal, who perceived his own profperity
to be immediately conneded witi: that of his employers. Indeed, with-
out fuch a fpirit, fuch a trade could not have become fo extended and
advantageous, as it has been and now is. ' ^ .

:f 1.

■ 11

In 1788, the grofs amount of the adventure for th" year did not ex-
ceed foity thoufand pounds,* but by the exertion, cntcrprife, and in-
dullry of the proprietors, it was brought in eleven years to triple that

• This might be properly tailed the flock of the company, as it intluded, with the expeiuliiure oF
ihe year, the nmount tif the piopcriy uncxijcndi-d, which had brtn appropriatfd for the adventure of
that year, and was lairifd on to the ariomit ol' tin- following adventure.

atuount

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

XX HI

amount and upwards ; yielding proportionate profits, and furpafTing, in
ihort, any thing known in America.

Such, therefore, being the profperous ftate of the company, it,
very naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a man-
ner by no means benencial to the company, and commonly ruin-
ous to the undertakers. :♦ r .

In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the fliares were incrcafed
to forty-fix, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This
period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed
by all the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to aft upon
the old flock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new
one; and it now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under
the fame regulations and by ihe fame exertions, though unequal in num-
ber, can continue to carry on the bufinefs to a fucccfsful ilfue. The
contrary opinion has been held, which, if verified, will make it the in-
tered of the parties again to coalefce ; for neither is deficient in capital
to fupport their obftinacy in a lofing trade, '4S ii. is not to be fuppofed
that either will yield on any other terms than perpetual patricipation.

It will not be fuperfluous in this place, to explain .\2 general moo: of
carrying on the fur trade. . t

lie o\'
lie of

)unt

The agents arc obliged to order the neccfiary goods from Fngland
in the month of 06lober, eighteen months before they can leave Mon-
treal } that is, they are not ftiippcd from London until the fi)ring fol-

lowing,

-%.* J

XXIV

A GENERAL HISTORY

If ' L

lowing, when they arrive in Canada in the fummer. In the courle of
the following winter they are made up into fuch articles as are required
for the favages ; they are then packed into parcels of ninety pounds
weight each, but cannot be fent from Montreal until the May following ;
fo that they do not get to market until the enfuing winter, when they are
exchanged for furs, which come to Montreal the next fall, and from
thence arc fhipped, chiefl) to London, where they are not fold or paid
for before the fucceeding fpring, or even as late as June ; which is forty-
two months after the goods were ordered in Canada ; thirty-fix after
they had been fhipped from England, and twenty-four after they had
been forwarded from Montreal ; fo that the merchant, allowing that he
has twelve months credit, does not receive a return to pay for thofe
goodsj and the neceffary expences attending them, which is about equal
to the value of the goods themfelves, till two years after they are con-
fidered as cafh, which makes this a very heavy bufmefs. There is even
a fmall proportion of it that requires twelve months longer to bring
round the payment, owing to the immenfe diflance it is carried, and from
the fhortnefs of the feafons, which prevents the furs, even after they are
cc'llefted, from coming out of the country for that period.

• Tliis will be better illuflratcd by the following flatcment :

We will fuppofe the goods for 1 798 ;

The orders for the goods arc (cnt to this country - . . - 25th Oft. 1796,

They are Ditpped from London ..... March 1797.

They anive in Montreal ...... June 1797.

They are made up in the courfc of that (ummer and winter.

They are (ent from Montreal ..... May 1798.

They arrive in the Indian country, and arc exchanged for furs the following winter 1798-9.
Which furs come to Monliril .... . Sept. 1799.

And are (hipped for London, where they are fold in March and April, and paid

for in May ur June ..... . 1800.

The

^':!

OF*rHE FUR TRADE, &c.

xxv

The articles neceflaTy for this trade, are coarfe woollen cloths of dif-
ferent kinds; milled blankets of different fizes; arms and ammunition;
twin and carrot tobac<!0; Manchelter goods ; linens, and coarfe fheet-
ings; thread, lines and twine; common hardware; cutlery and iron-
mongery of leveral defcriptions; kettles of brafs and copper, and fheet-
iron; fiik and cotton handkerchiefs; hats, fhoes and hofe; calicoes and
printed cottons. Sec. &c. Sec. Spirituous liquors and provifions are
purchafed in Canada. Thefe, and the ex pence of tranfport to and froiir
the Indian country, including wages to clerks, interpreters, giiitles, and
canoe-men, with the expence of making up the goods for the market,
form about half the annual amountagainft the adventure. ''■" '' '

- Jili>3 flit

This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of
Britifh manufaftory, for thofe who are employed in the different;
branches of this bufinefs, arc enabled by their gains to purchafe fuch
Britifh articles as they muft otherwife forego.

^dlib

(•#» ( A'-i "

The produce of the year of which I am now fpeaking, confifkd oftHe
following furs and peltries: • ■

6000. Lynx (kins, f ,j

600 Wolverine Ikins, I,- ,i lo

1650 Fiflier (kins, 1 )<h\>)h

100 Kackoon (kins, iS i, .i^f^^

3800 Wolf (kins, . ,,,jv:iui\
700 Elk (kins,
750 Dccrfkins, t ?^I

1200 Deer (^ips, dre(fed| .)a.>j

_^^ 106,000 Beaver (kins,
..(1 iu^*«° Bear (kins.
-^|5 xi*50Q Foxadns,

4000 Kitt r;ox (kins,
4600 Otter (kins,
17,000 Mufquafh (kins,
32,000 Marten (kins,
V 1800 Mink (kins.

500 Buffalo robes, and a quantity of caflorum.

XXVL

A GENERAL HISTORY

■<i\\

. Of thefe were diverted from the Britifh market, being fent through the
United States to China, 13,364 flcias, fine beaver, weighing 19283 pounds;.
1250 fine otters, and 1724 kitt foxes. They would have found their
way to the China market at any rate, but this deviation from the Britilh
channel arofe from the following circumftance : i.

An adventure of this kind was undertaken, by a refpeftable houfe in
London, half concerned with the North- Weft Company in the year
1792. The furs were of the beft kind, and fuitable to the market; and
the adventurers continued this connexion for five fucceflive years, to
the annual amount of forty thoufand pounds. At the winding up of
the concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795» in the year 1797, (the adven-
ture of 1796 not being included, as the furs were not fent to China, but
difpofed of in London), the North- Weft Company experienced a lofs
of upwards of £'40,000 (their half,) which was principally owing to the
difficulty of getting home the produce procured in return for the furs
from China, in the Eaft India Company's (hips, together with the duty
payable, and the various reftriftions of that company. Whereas, from
America there are no impediments ; they get immediately to market^
and the produce of them is brought back, and perhaps fold in the courfe
of tweh'e months. From fucli advantages the furs of Canada will no
doubt find their way to China by America, which would not be the
cafe if BritiQi rubje6ls had the fume privileges that are allowed to
foreigners, as Lohdon would then be found the beft and fafeft market.

But to return to our principal fubjeft. — Wc ihall now proceed to
confidcr the number of men employed in the concern : viz. fifty clerks,

.. • /■ril.:'> '0 (V • .•;^voToli.iurl feventy-

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

XXV li

furs
duty
from

irket,

:ourre

ill no

)c the

id to

cet.

feventy-one interpreters and clerks^ one thoufand one hundred' and
twenty canoe men, and thirty-five guides. Of thefe, five clerks; eighteen
guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe men, were employed for the
fummer Icafon in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage, in
canoes, part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be
hereafter explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers.
Thefe were hired in Car.ada or Montreal, and were abfent from the ift of
May till the latter end of September. Fdr' this trip the gi"Hes had
from eight hundred to a thoufand livres, and a fuitable equipment;
the foreman and fteerfman from four to fix hundred livres; the middle-
men from two hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with
an equipment of one blanket, one Ihirt, and one pair of trowfers; and
were maintained during that period at the expence of their employers.
Independent of their wages, they were allowed to traffic, and many of
them earned to the amount of their wages. About one third of thefe went
to winter, and had more than double the above wages and equipments
All the others were hired by the year, and fome times for three years; and
of the clerks many were apprentices, who were generally engaged for five
or feven years, for which they had only one hundred pounds, provifion
and clothing. Such of them who could not be provided for as partners,
at the expiration of this time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to
three hundred pounds per annum, with all neceU'aries, till provifion was
made for them. Thole who a6led in the two-fold capacity of clerk and-
interpreter, or were fo denominated, had no other expetlition than the
payment of wages to the amount of from one thoufand to f jur thoufand
livres per annum, with clothing and provifions. The guides, who are a
very uleful let of men, a6led alio in the additional capacity of interpreters,'

Xi2

anc

XXV.III

A GENERAL HISTORY

and had a ftated quantity of goods, cohfidered as fufficient for their
wants, their wages being from one to three thoufand livres. The canoe
men are of two defcriptions, foremen and fteerfmen, and middlemen.
The two firfl were allowed annually one thoufand two hundred, and the
latter four hundred, Uvres each. The firft clafs had what is called an
equipment, conlilling of two blankets, two fliirts, two pair of trowfers,
two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco, and fomc trifling
articles. The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and all the other arti-
cles : thofe are called North Men, or Winterers; and to the laft clafs of
people were attached upwards of feven hundred Indian women and
children, vi6lualled at the expence of the company.

. This firft clafs of people are hired in Montreal five months before they
fet out, and receive their equipments, and one third of their wages in
advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo may be
formed from the following account of the country through which they
pafs, and their manner of proceeding.

i The neccffary number of canoes being purchafcd, at aboi^t three hun-
dred livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and
fivers free of ice, which they ufually are in the beginning of May, they
are then difpalched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with
eight or ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; ana fixty-five p€u:k-
ages of goods, fix hundred weight of bifcuit, two hundred weight of
pork, three bulhcls of peafe, for the men's pro vifi on; two oil cloths to
cover the goods, a fail, &c. an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a fponge
to bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to

;• ji :. w) repair

OF THE FUR TRADE, «&c. xxix

repair the veflel. An European on feeirtg one of thefe flehdef veffels thus
laden, heaped up, and funk with her gunwale within fix inches of the
water, would think his fate inevitable in fuch a boaf, when he reflefted
on the nature of her voyage ; but the Canadians are fo expert that fevr
accidents happen.'i-«^ t>nii ,?JooJ|a?> bm ,t?

Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of
the Weftem extremity of the ifland of Montreal, the lake of the two
mountains being in fight, which may be termed the commencement of
the Utawas River. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take
out part, if not the whole of their lading. It is from this fpot that the
Canadians confider they take their departure, as it poffeffes the laft church
on the ifland, which is dedicated to the tutelar faint of voyagers. r-

The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but ik)t
more than three wide, and furrounded by cultivated fields, except the
Seignory belonging to the clergy, thoogh nominally in poffeffion of the twa
tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whofe village is fituated on a delightful
point of land under the hills, which, by the title of mountains, give a name
to the lake. Near the extremity of the point their church is built, which
divides tlie village in two parts, forming a regular angle along the water
fide. On the Eaft is the ftation of the Algonquins, and on the Weft,
one of the Iroquois, confifting in all of about five hundred warriors.
Each parly has its miffionary, and divine worrnip is performed accord-
ing to the rites of the Roman Catholic religion, in their refijeQive ian-
guages in tilie fame church : and fo atfiduous have their paftors been,
that thefe people have been inllrutled in readiiig and writing in their
xaiij . . • own

XXX

A GENERAL HISTORY

!i, li

.SI'

own language, and are better inrtrufted than the Canadian inhabitants of
the country of the lower ranks : but notwithftanding thefe advantages,
and though the eflablilhment is nearly coeval with the colonization ot
the country, they do not advance towards a ftate of civilization, but re-
tain their ancient habits, language, and cuftoms, and are becoming every
day more depraved, indigent, and infignificant. The country around
them, though very capable of cultivation, prefents only a few raiferable
patches of ground, Town by the women with maize and vegetables.
Puring the winter i'eafon, they leave their habitations, and pious paftors,
to follow the chafe, according to the cuftom of their forefathers. Such
is, indeed, the ftate of all the villages near the cultivated parts of Canada.
But we fhall now leave them to proceed on our voyage. ..nor* an f:ib«fli;3

At the end of the lake the water contradls into the Utawas River,
whjich, after a courfe of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a fucceflion of
rapids and cafcades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which the
Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were wafte land,
till the conclufion of the American war, when they were furveyed by
order of government, and granted to the officers and men of the eighty-
fourth regiment, when reduced; but principally to the former, and
confequently little inhabited, though very capable of cultivation.- sslHyil)

The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and
carry the goods upon their backs, or rather fufpended in flings from
their heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though fome
carry three. Here the canoe is towed by a ftrong line. There are fome
places where the ground will not admit of tlieir carrying the whole ;
iV-fo they

'i i\i

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

XXXI

they then make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go and
land it at the diftance required ; and then return for that which was
left. In this diilance are three carrying-places, the length of which
depends in a great meafure upon the flate of the water, whether higher
or lower ; from the laft of thefe the river is about a mile and an half
wide, and has a regular current for about fixty miles, when it ends at
the firft Portage de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five
feet, over cragged, excavated rocks, in a moft wild, romantic manner.
At a fmall diftance below, is the river Rideau on the left, falling
over a perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in one fheet, affuming
the appearance of a curtain ; and from which circuraftance it derives its
name. To this extent the lands have been furveyed, as before obferved,
and are very fit for culture. Many loyalifts are fettled upon the river
Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving plantations. Some American
families preferring the Britifh territory, have alfo eftablilhed themfelves
along a river on the oppofite fide, where the foil is excellen: Nor do
I think the period is far diftant, when the lands will become fettled
from this vicinity to Montreal. - ' > : ' ■' '

•'Over this portage, which is fix hundred and forty-three paces long, the
canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is fo fteep and difficult of
accefs, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe out of the water: it
is then carried by fix men, two at each end on the fame fide, and two
under the oppofite gunwale in the middle. From hence to the next is but
a fliort diftance, in which they make two trips over the fecond Portage de
Chaudiere, which is feven hundred paces, to carry the loading alone.
From hence to the next and laft Chaudiere, or Portage des Chenes, is about

fix

.««i««a.ilcu,idt>>>W: .'

XXXll

A GENERAL HISTORY

|.!^

1^^
U

'^'

fix iT.ilrs, ^^(ilh a very ftrong current, where the goods are carried feven
hundred and forty paces; the canoe being towed up by the hue, when
the water is not very high. We now enter Lac des Chaudieres, which
is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though it is called a lake,
there is a (hong draught downwards, and its breadth is from two to four
miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, over which the canoe
and lading are carried two hundred and leventy-lour paces; and very dif-
ficult it is for the forme". 1 he river is here barred by a ridge of black
rocjts, rifing in pinnacles and covered v/ith wood, which, froin the fmall
quaniiiy of loil that nouriflies it, is low and, Hinted. The river finds its
wayover and through th.ele rocks,in numerous channels, falling fifteen feet
and upwards, fron^ hence two trips are made through a ferpentine chan-
nel, fornird by the rocks, for feveral miles, when the current flackens, and
is accordmgly called th^ Lake des Chats. At the channels of the grand
Calumet, which are computed to be at the diftance of eighteen, miles, the
current recovers its ftrength, and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which
b two hundred and forty-fiye paces long ; over which the canoe and
baggage are tranfported. From hence the current becomes more rapid,
..■.nd requires two trips to the Dcchargc des Sables*, where the goods
are carried one hundred ai)d thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed.
Then iollows the Mountain Portage, where thq canoe and lading
are alfo carried three hundred and eighty- five pac(;s; then tjo the
Dechargr of the Derige where the goods are carrit d two hundred and
fifi/ paces i and Uiente to the Brand Caknieu/IlM^

• T\k pli'cc vvlioif t 10 f;oo(N aloiio arr cnnieil, is r;»llcd a i^/cAuwf, and llwl whe^C flOOjl I
^10 both tiuuliwicd, overland, U4icnomin«lea«A'rM^«. 'l"» f-'^''*" ''' ^y'<'"^^:'*^''

indcinoi;!

jMbrtiJJxift'xiJ J.

carrying"

:iTO*iJV

xxxii'i

OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec

carrying-place in this river, and is about two thoufand and thirty-five
paces. It is a high hill or mountain. From the upper part of this Por-
tage the current is fteady, and is only a branch of the Utawas Rivet',
which joins the main channel, that keeps a more Southern courfe, at the
diftance of twelve computed leagues. Six leagues further it forms Like
Coulonge, which is about four leagues in length : from thence it proceeds
through the channels of the Allumettes to the Portage, where part of the
lading is taken out, and carried three hundred and forty-two paces.
Then fucceeds the Portage des Allumettes, which is but twenty-five
paces, over a rock difficult of accefs, and but a very fhort diftance from
Lake Coulonge. From Portage de Chenes to this fpot, is a fine deer-
hunting country, and the land in many parts very fit for cultivation.
From hence the river fpreads wide, and is full of iflands, with fome cur-
rent for feven leagues, to the beginning oi Riviere Creufe, or Deep River,
which runs in the form of a canal, about a mile and an half wide, for
about thirty-fix miles ; bounded upon the North by very high rocks,
with low land on the South, and fandy ; it is intercepted again by falls
and catarads, fo that the Portages of the two Joachins almofl join.
The firik is nine hundred and twenty-fix paces, the next Icven hundred
and twenty, and both very bad roads. From hence is a fteady current of
nine miles to the River du Moinc, where there has goncraliy been a trad-
ing lioule ; the ftream then becomes llrong for four leagues, when a rapid
fucceeds, wliich requires two trips. A little wny onward is the Decharge,
and clofe to it, the Portage of the Roche Capifaine, fevcn hundred and
ninety-Ceven paces in length. From hence two trips are made through
a narrow channel of the Roche Capitainc, made by an illand four miles
in length, A ftrong current now fucceeds, for about fix leagues to xht

e Portage

■y

XXXIV

A GENERAL HISTORY )

Portage of ihe two rivers, which is about eight hundred and t'venty
paces; from thence it is three leagues to the Decharge of the Trou,
which is three hundred paces. Near adjoining is the rapid of LevelHer ;
from whence, including the rapids of Matawoen, where ther6 is no
carrying-plaCe, it is about thirty-fix miles to the forks of the fame name;
in latitude 464-. North, and longitude ySi. Well:, and is at the computed
dillance of four hundred miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite
Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter comes in a North- Wellerly
direflion, forming feveral lakes in its courfe. The principal of them is
Lake Tcmefcamang, where diere has always been a trading poll, which
may be laid to continue, by a fucceifion of rivers and lakes, upwards of
lifty leagues from the Forks, palfing near the waters of the Lake
Abbitiby, in latitude 48I. which is received by the Moole River, that
empties itfclf into James Bay. ';ih,n-^f\'vih ' ' ,;:yi*3.;i.'?i na^H rui Mn^

lUi .V"J«7» •

tU It .JlUlI M

The Petite Riviere takes a South- Weft direftion, is full of rapids and
catarafts to its fource, and is not more than fifteen leagues in length, in
the courfe of which are the Ibllowing interruptions — The Portage of
Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the Decharge of the
Rofe, one hundred and forty-five paces; the Discharge of Campion, one
hundied and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the Gioile Roche, one
hundred and fifty paces; the Portage of Parclfeux, four hundred and
two paces; the Portage of Priario, two hundred and eighty-fcven paces;
the Portage of La Cave, one hundred paces; Portage of Talon, two
hundred and fcvcnty-five paces; which, for its length, is the word on
the communication; Portage Pin dc Mu(i(iuf, four hundred and fifty-
fix pacci, where many men have been crulhed to death by the

> ; 1;''

canoca,

l!l

OF THE FUR TRADE, ^c.

XXXV

is and
til, ia
gt* of
f the
n, one
e, one
I and
paces ;
, two
id on
lifty-
tlic
anoca,

canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries. The lafl: in this
river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on entering the lake of
that name, where, indeed, the river may be faid to take its fource. From
ihe firli vafe to the great river, the country has the appearance of having
been over-run by fire, and confifts in general of huge rocky hills. The
whole diftance which is the height of land, between the waters of the
St. Laurence and the Utawas, is one thoufand five hundred and thirteen
paces to a fmall canal in a plain, that is jufl fufficicnt to carry the
loaded canoe about one mile to the next vafe, which is feven hundred
and twenty-five paces. It would be twice this diftance, but the narrow
creek is dammed in the beaver fafhion, to float the canoes to this barrier,
through which they pafs, when the river is juft fuflicient to bear them
through a fwamp of two miles to the laft vafe, of one thoufand
and twenty-four paces in length. Though the river is increafed in this
part, fome care is necelfary to avoid rocks and ftumps of trees. In about
lix miles is the lake Nepifingui, which is computed to be twelve leagues
long, though the route of the canoes is fomething more : it is about fif-
teen miles wide in the wideft part, and bounded with rocks. Its inha-
bitants confift of the remainder of a numerous converted tribe, called
Ncpifinguis of the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere des
Francois, over rocks of a confiderable height. In a bay to the Eaii of
this, the road leads over the Portage of the Chaudiere d'.*8 Fran9ois, five
hundred and forty-four paces, to flill water. It mult have acquired the
name of Kettle, from a great number of holes in the folid rock of a
cylindrical lorm, and not unlike that culinary utenfil. They are obferv-
nble in many parts along ftrong bodies of water, and where, at certain
Icalons, and diflind periods, it is well known the water inundates ; ot
i... e i * ihr

: i

ft;

*in(fl

ii i

; iS^l'

xxxvi

A GENERAL HISTORY

the bottom of them are generally found a number of fmall flones and
pebbles. This circumllance juftifies the conclufion, that at fome former
period thefe rocks formed the bed of a branch of the difcharge of this
lake, although fome of them are upwards of ten feet above the prelen*
level of the w^ater at its greateft height. They arc, indeed, to be feen in
every lake and river throughout this wide extended country. The
Frcncli river is very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and is fo
interfperfed with illands, that in the whole courfe of it the banks are fel-
dom vifible. Of its various channels, that which is generally followed
by the canoes is obftrudcd by the following Portagrs, viz. des Pins,
fifty-two paces; F^aufille, tliirty-fix paces; Parifienne, one hundred
paces; Rccolet, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feaufillc, twenty-five
paces. In fe'°ral parts there are guts or channels, where the water
flows wiih great velocity, which are not more than twice the breadth of
a canoe. The diUance to Lake Huron is eftimattd at twenty-five
leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, that is, at
the point of land three or four miles within the lake. There is hardly
a foot of foil to be Icen from one end of the French river to the other,
its banks confiding of hills of entire rock. The coaft oi the lake is the
fame, but lower, backed at fome diftance by high hnds. 1 he courfe runs
through numerous illands to the North of Well to the river Teflalon,
computed to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and which I
found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence crolfing, from
ifland to illand, the arm of the lake that receives the water of Lake
S'".perior (which continues the lame courfe), the route changes to the
South of Well ten leagues to the Detour, palfing the end of the illand of
St. Joleph, within fix miles of the former place. On that illand there
. ' . has

1-i

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

<!SXXVU

has been a military eftablilhment fince the upper ports were given up to
the Americans in the year 1794; and is the Weflernmoft military
pofition which we have in this country. It is a place of no trade, and
the greater part, if not the whole of the Indians, come here for no other
purpofe but to receive the prefents which our government annually
allows them. They are from the American territory (except about
thirty families, who are the inhabitants of the lake from the French river,
and of the Algonquin na-:on) and trade in their peltries, as they ufed
formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but principally with Britilh fubje6ls.
The Americans pay them very little attention, and tell them that they
keep poffoflion of their country by right of conqueft : that, as their
brothers, they will be friends with them while they deferve it; and that
their traders will bring them every kind of p;oods they require, which
they may procure by their indullry. a^ a^ • >::.,4Vi., ,. j*, i a:", j t jiis
-',''' "^-''^ ■ '!,<..; • ,'>M,.:», .'J Ji :-',*;> aU'^..vt

Our commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the
charafter of the reprefentatives of their father; (which parental title the
natives give to his prefent Majefty, the common father of all his people)
prefent them with fuch things as the a6lual ilate of their (lores will
allow.

'in -.ns U

I'.'i 1 1 1

How far this conduft, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep
thefe people in our intercft, if they arc even worthy of it, is not an obje6l
of my prefent confideration: at the fame tinie, I cannot avoid expref-
fmg my perfe»'".l conviClion, that it wciild not he of the Icall advantage
to our prelient or future commerce in that country, or to the people
thcmlclvcs; as it only tends to keep many oi them in a liaie of idlenefs

about

xxxvni

A GENERAL HISTORY

about our military eftablifhments. The ammunition which they receive:
is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum in return, though their
families may be in a ftarving condition : hence it is, that, in confequence
of flothful and diffolute lives, their numbers are in a very perceptible
(late of diminution. ' • • i 1 •* ? '■ •).,;„-» oy n;. ' f>

VI : i

From the Detour to the ifland of Michilimakinac, at the confluence of
the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty-
miles. To keep the direft courfe to Lake Superior, the north fhore
from the river Teflalon fhould be followed ; croflRng to the North-Weft
end of St. Jofeph, and paflTmg between it and the adjacent iflands, which
makes a diftance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot of
which, upon the South (hore, there is a village, formerly a place of great
refort for the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and confequently of confi-
derable trade : it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced
to about thirty families, of the Algonquin nation, who are one half of
the year ftarving, and the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve Ca-
nadians, who have been in the Indian country from an early period of
life, and intermarried with the natives who have brought them families.
Their inducement to fettle there, was the great quantity of white fi(h
that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble, par-
ticularly in the autumn, when that lilh leaves the lakes, and comes to
the running and fhallow waters to fpawn. Thcfe, when fait can be pro-
cured, are pickled jufl as the froft fets in, and prove very good food with
potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with fuccefs. The natives
live chiefly on this fifli, which they hang up by the tails, and preli-rve
throughout the winter, or at lead as long as they la(t ; for whatever

quantity

/vl

M«.':

•,.nif

OF THE iFUR TRADE, Sec,

XXXIX

pro-
witli

quantity they may have taken, it is never known that their oeconomy
is fuch as to make them laft throuofh the winter, which renders their
fituation very diftreffing ; tor if they had a£liv'ity fufficient to purfue the
labours of the chafe, the woods are become fo barren of game as to
afford them no great profpe6l of relief. In the fpring of the year they,
and the other inhabitants, make a quantity of fugar from the maple tree,
which they exchange with the traders for neceffary articles, or carry it
to Michilimakinac, where they expeft a better price. One of thefe
traders was agent for the North-Weft Company, receiving, floring, and
forwarding fuch articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their
vefTels : for it is to be obferved, that a quantity of their goods are lent
by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingflon, at the entrance of
Lake Ontario, and from thenc«- in vefTels to Niagara, then over land ten
miles to a water communication, by boats, to Lake Erie, where they
are again received into vefl'els, and carried over that lake up the river
Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from
thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed and carried
for a mile above the falls, and fhipped over Lake Superior to the Grande
Portage. This is found to be a Icfs expenfive method than by canoes,
but attended with more rifk, and requiring more time, than one fliort
feafon of this country will admit ; for the goods are always fent frora
Montreal the preceding fall ; and befides, the company get the whole
of their provifions from Detioit, as Hour and Indian corn ; as alfb
confiderablc fupplies from Michilimakinac of maple fugar, tallow,
gum, &c. &c. .,., .^^ ,,...^,.,^ „,j

. -,i. t I

For the purpofe of conveying all thcfe things, they have two vcfTcIs

upon

A GENERAL HISTORY

;''i|

/■ii

upon the Lakes E^' * id Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty
to feventy tons burthen. This being, therefore, the depot for tranfports,
the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over Lake Superior,
with only five men m each ti:e others were fent to Michilimakinac
for additional canoe* ^r' . \ were required to profecute the trade, and
then take a lading the? ' St. Mary's, and follow the others. At
length they all arrive at the Gruv ^ Portage, which is one hundred and
fixty leagues from St. Mary's, and fituated on a pleafant bay on the North
fide of the lake, in latitude 48. North and longitude 90. Weft from Green-
wich, where the c »mpafs has not above five degrees Eaft variation.

At the entrance of the bay is an ifland which fcreens the harbour from
every wind except the South. The Ihallownefs of the water, however,
renders it necefl'ary for the veflel to anchor near a mile from the fhore,
where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake juftifies the
name that has been given to it*, the Falls of St. Mary, which is its
Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and in longitude
84 Weft, where there is no variation of the compafs whatever, while its
Southern extremity, at the River St. Louis, is in latitude 46. 45. Nortlh
and longitude 92. 10. Weft: its greateft breadth is one hundred and
twenty miles, and its circumference, including its various bays, is not lefs
than one thoufand two hundred miles. Along its North ftiore is the fafcft
navigation, as it is a continued mountainous embankment of rock, from
three hundred to one thoufand five hundred feet in height. There are
numerous coves and landy bays to land, which are frequently ftiehtred
bjr illands from the fwell of the lake. This is particularly the cafe at
the diftance of one hundred miles to the Eaftward of the Grande Portage,

and is called the Pays Plat.

;V.1

i<;

6f the fur trade, &c.

-If

This feems to have been caufecl by fome convulfion of nature, "or
many of the illands difplay a compofition of lava, intermixed with
round ftones of the fize of a pigeon's egg. The furrounding rock is
o-enerally hard, and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the
appearance of iron and copper. The South fide of the lake, from Point
Shagoimigo Eaft, is almoft a continual ftraight line of fandy beach, in-
terlperfed with rocky precipices of lime-ftone" fometimes rifing to an
hundred feet in height, without a bay. Th, ei )ankments from that
point Weftward are, in general, of ftrong cl. /, mixed with ftones, which
renders the navigation irkfome and dangerous. On the fame fide,
at the River Tonnagan, is found a quantity of virgin copper. The
Americans, foon after they got pofleflic of that country, fent an en-
gineer thither; and I fhould not be furprifcd to hear of their employing
people to work the mine. Indeed, it might be well worthy the attention
of the Briiifli fubjefts to work the mines on the North coaft, thoucrh
they are not fuppofed to be fo rich as thofe on the South. , •

Lake Superior is the largefl and moft magnificent body of frcfh water
in the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in
a great variety of filh, which are ihe moft excellent of their kind. There
are trouts o^" three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds, fturgcon,
pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bafs, herrings, &c. &c. and the
luft and beft of all, the Ticamang, or white fifh, which weighs from
four to fixtcen pounds, and is of a fuperior quality in thcfe waters.

This lake may be denominated the grand refervoir of the River

St. Laurence, as no confiderable rivers dilcharge themlelves into it.

v.il' i The

xln

A GENERAL HISTORY

rii fi

ft m

The principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the
Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them
flow, or take their courle, in any direftion, cannot admit of it, in confe-
quence of the ridge of land that feparates them from the rivers that
empty themfelves into Hudlon's-Bay, the gulph of Mexico, and the
waters that fall in Lake Michegan, which afterwards become a part of

the St. Laurence.

iu*i-''fm\ t».

)•; :if -■■..>a.i w.-r

I ,

' '\) ,

"■\-i ^•-■■^v>.«tV»i(

J I ;« '. ,-vo/'> ;

This vafl; colle£lion of water is often covered with fog, particularly
when the wind is from the Eaft, which, driving againfl; the high barren
rocks on the North and Weft (hore, diflblves in torrents of rain. It
is very generally faid, that the ftorms on this lake are denoted by a fwell
on the preceding day ; but this circumftance did not appear from my
obfervation to be a regular phenojcnenon, as the fwells more frequently
fubfided without any fubfequent wind.

U-.i W

Along the furrounding rocks of this immenfe lake, evident marks
appear of the decreafe of its water, by the lines obfervable along them.
The fpace, however, between the higheft and the loweft, is not fo great
as in the fmaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than fix feet, the
former being very faint.

?*»•>.'' >j

,;!„.

Jill

The inhabitants that are found along the coaft of this water, are all of

the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.*

• '• ,1-1. . ',•-"' , ' ' ' • " ■ ^ i -"

* In the year 1668, vvlicii the fiid tnifTionaries vifited the South of this lake, they found the
loiintry full of inhahitants. They ichitr, that, about ilus time a band of the Nepifiiigues, who were
converted, cniigraied to the Nipigon country, which is to tiie North of Lake Superior. Few of their
delccndauts are now remaining, and not a trace of tlie religion communicated to them is to be

<lilc<iV','i"d.

Thcfe

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xliii

Thefe people live chiefly on fifli ; indeed, from what has been faid
of the country, it cannot be expefted to abound in animals, as it is
totally deftitute of that flielter, which is fo neceffary to them. The
rocks appear to have been over-run by fire, and the Hinted timber,
which once grew there, is frequently feen lying along the furface of
them : but it is not eafy to be reconciled, that any thing (hould
grow where there is fo little appearance of foil. Between the fallen
trees there are briars, with hurtleberry and goofeberry buflies, rafp-
berries, &c. which invife the bears in greater or leffer numbers, as
they are a favourite food of that animal : beyond thefe rocky banks
are found a few moofe and fallow deer. The waters alone are abun-
dantly inhabited. ■ HM ^rf': i'i :.^ •■' ■■■■it^ >.l. '.' , '.

A very curious phenomenon was obferved fome years ago at the Grande
Portage, for which no obvious caufe could be alTigned. The water
withdrew with great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had
never before been vifible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet,
and rufhing back with great velocity above the common mark. It con-
tinued thus falling and rifing for feveral hours, gradually decreafing
till it flopped at its ufual height. There is frequently ?.n irregular
influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is attributed

to the wind.

o' i'<j.{'i :ti

:i.v !'v

Thcfc

The bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is clear and
inclofed ; and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or four
hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of a Itiil greater altitude,

fa is

xliv

4 m'

A GENERAL HISTORY

is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallifadoes, and inclofing houfes built
with wood and covered with (hingles. They are calculated for every
convenience of trade, as well as to accommodate the proprietors and
clerks during their fhort refidence there. The North men live under
tents : but the more frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his canoe. The foil
immediately bordering on the lake has not proved very propitious, as
nothing but potatoes have been found to anfwer the trouble of cultiva-
tion. This circumftance is probably owing to the cold damp fogs of the
lake, and the moifture of the ground from the fprings that ilTue from
beneath the hills. There are meadows in the vicinity that yield abun-
dance of hay for the cattle ; but, as to agriculture, it has not hitherto
been an obje6l of ferious confideration. .[ jt-'-lr;.;.*; viu; .'>

■1 :: I

I {hall now leave thefe geographical notices, to give fome further
account of the people from Montreal. — When they are arrived at the
Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has
to carry eight packages of fuch goods and provifions as are necefiary for
the interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently
perform in fummer, as both horfes and oxen were tried by the company
without fuccefs. They are only ufeful for light, bulky articles ; or for
tranfporting upon (ledges, during the winter, whatever goods may remain
there, efpecially provifion, of which it is ufual to have a year's ftock on
hand.

.nif.;,!

r .:.

riif )Kr<

Having finifhed this toilfome part of their duty, if more goods are ne-
ceflary to be tranfported, they are allowed a Spanilh dollar for each

'i package :

i!l' i

OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec.

xlv

package : and fo inured are they to this kind of labour, that I have
known feme of them fet off with two packages of ninety pounds each,
and return with two others of the fame weight, in the courfe of fix hours,
being a diftance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains. This
neceflary part of the bufinefs being over, if the feafon be early they
have fome refpite, but this depends upon the time the North men begin
to arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do early in
July. At this period, it is neceflary to fele6l from the pork-eaters, a
number of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers, fufficient
to man the North canoes neceflary to carry, to the river of the rainy
lake, the goods and provifion requifitc 'or the Athabafca country ; as the
people of that country, (owing to the fliortnefs of the feafon and length
of the road, can come no further), are equipped there, and exchange
ladings with the people of whom we are fpeaking, and both return
from whence they came. This voyage is performed in the courfe
of a month, and they are allowed proportionable '":^es for their
lervices. " .

.-.,- Krf T

...A

■■,:■ l^i

'. ' r/") t!»i% ■

The north men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled
■with bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and fuch as have not en-
tered into agreements during the winter, which is cuftomary, are con-
tra£led with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three
years: their accounts are alfo fettled, and fuch as choofe to fend any of
tlieir earnings to Canada, receive drafts to tranfmit to their relations or
friends: and as foon as tliey can be got ready, which requires no more
than a fortnight, they are again difpatched to their refpe£live depart-
.'.■.,(. ments.

:l^l

i J

' im'

I ^:1|

xlvi

A GENERAL HISTORY

nents. It is, indeed, very creditable to iliern as fervants, that though
they are fometimcs aflembled to the number of twelve hundred men, in-
dulging lliemfelves in the free ufe of liquor, and quarrelling with each
other, they always {hew the greateft refpeft to their employers, who
are comparatively but few in number, and beyond the aid of any legal
power to enforce due obedience. In (liort, a degree of fubordination
can only be maintained by the good opinion thefe men entertain of their
employers, which has been uniformly the cafe, fince the trade has been
formed and conduced on a regular fyftem. '■ '' ■

The people being difpatched to their refpeftive winter quarters,
the agents from Montreal, alTifted by their clerks, prepare to return
there, by getting the furs acrofs the portage, and re-making them
intj packaj^es of one hundred pounds weight each, to fend them to
Montreal; where they commonly arrive about the month of Sep-
tember. ■■■>' ' ' ': . "' " •"' ■ ■' ''' '■ •'■''■ • ' ' '

I .

The mode of living at the Grande Portage, is as follows : The pro-
prietors, clerks, guides, and interpreters, mefs together, to the number
of fometimcs an hundred, at feveral tables, in one large hall, the pro-
vifion confiHing of bread, fait pork, beef, hams, filh, and venifon, but-
ter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, fpirits, wine, &c. and plenty of
milk, for which purpc^le feveral milch cows arc conftantly kept. The
mechanics have rations of inch provifion, but the canoe-men, both from
the Noiih and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in the voyage,
than Indian corn and mcllcd lat, I'he corn lor this purpofe is pre-
pared

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xlvii

pared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a ftrong alkali, which
takf'S off the outer hufk ; it is then well wafhed, and carefully dried upon
llagcs, when it is fit for ufe. One quart of this is boiled for two hours, over
a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which, whtn it has boiled a
fuiall time, are added two ounces of melted fuet ; this caufes the corn
to iplit, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty thick pudding. If to
this IS added a little fait, (but not before it is boiled, as it would inter-
rupt the operation), it makes an wholefome, palatablg food, and eafy of
digeninu. This quantity is fully fufficient for a man's lubfitlence
durmg twenty-four hours; though it is not fulficicntJy heartening to
fufiain the llrength necellary lor a Hate of atlive labour. The Ame-
ricans call this dilh hominee*.

The trade from the Grande Portage, is, in fome particulars, carried on
in a (lilfeient manner with that Irom Montreal. Ihc canoes ufed in
the Iatt( r tranfport are now too large for the former, and Ibme of about
hall the fize arc procured trom the nati\cs, and are navigated by four,
five, or fix men, according to the dillance which they have to go. 1 hey
carry a lading of 'about thirty-five packages, on an average; of ihele
twenty-ihiee are for the pmpofr of trade, and the refl are employed for
provifions, (lores, and biiggi'ge. In each of thele canoes are a foreman
and {leerfm.in ; the one to be always on the look out, and (lire6i the
pafiagc of the vedrl, and the otl.er to attend the helm. 'Ihcy alfo carry
her, whenever that olliee is iit-ceHiny. '1 he foreman has the command.

• Com is till' iIk'.hhH |iiiiviriiin iVi.1t Ciiii bi ludcinvil, ihnui^li Ihmii tin- rxprmo nf n.\nij'oi't,
tho liufhi'l I'liiU ;il>uiit iwniiy lliiUiiM\'' lUiliug, al iho Cirinik I'yittigc. A innu'ji lUily ulluuui tc
»U)i'« not ox»cfil trii-j)enc(.",

and

,vJ

xlviii

A GENERAL HISTORY

and tlic middle- men obey both ; the latter earn only two-thirds of the
wages wliich are paid the two former. Independent of thefe a conduftor
or pilot is appointed to every four or fix of thefe canoes, whom th^y
are all obliged to obey; and is, or at lead is intended to be, a perfon
of fuperior experience, for which he is proportionably paid.

p»i

li .I-'

Iin 'I'

' n

In thefe canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North fide of the
portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconfiderable ; and
after about two miles of a Wefterly courfe, is obdrufled by the Par-
tridge Portage, fix hundred paces long. In the fpring this makes a con-
fiderable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of one
hundred and twenty feet. From thence the river continues to be fhal-
low, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from
being injured by iharp rocks, for a dillance of three miles and an half to
the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out, and carried
by part of the crew, while two of them are conducing the canoe among
the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carrebocuf Portage, three miles
and an half more, when they unload and come back two miles, and
embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they alio
land with the former ; all of which is carried fix hundred and eighty
paces, and the canoe led up againd the rapid. From hence the water is
better calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding courfe to the
North of VV\:(l three miles to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe,
and every thing in her, is carried for two thoiiland four hundred paces.
At the further end is a very high hill to deCcend, over which hangs a
rock upwards of leven hundred feet high. Then fiiccecds the Outard
Lake, about fix miles long, lying in a Norih-Wefi courfe, and about two

miles

HW\ ^.

OF THE I'UR TRADE, Sic.

xlix

miles 'wide in the broadeft part. After pading a very fmall rivulet, they
come to the Elk Portage, over which thr canoe and lading are again car-
ried one thoufand one liundrcd and twenty paces ; when they enter the lake
of the fame name, which is an handlbme piece of water, running North-Weil
about four miles, and not more than one mile and an half wide*. Thoy
then land at the Portage de Cerife, over which, and in the face of a con-
lidcrable hill, the canoe and cargo are again tranfported for one thou-
fand and fifty paces. This is only feparated from the fecond Portage
de Cerife, by a mud-pond (where there is plenty of water lilies), of a
quarter of a mile in length ; and this is again feparated by a fimilar pond,
from the lad Portage de Cerife, which is four hundred and ten paces.
Here the fame operation is to be performed for three hundred and eighty
paces. They next enter on the Mountain Lake, running North-Wcfl
by Well fix miles long, and about two miles in its grcatell breadth. In
the centre of this lake, and to the right is the Old Road, by which I
never paffcd; but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the
road I am going to defcribc, and which is univcrfally preferred. This is
lirll, the fmall new portage over which every thing is carried for fix
hundred and twenty-fix paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then
embarked on a narrow line of water, that meanders South-Weil about two
miles and an half. It is neceflary to unload hero, for the length of the
canoe, and then proceed Well half a mile, to the new Grande Portage,
v.'hich is three thoufand one himdred paces in length, and over very rough
ground, which requires the utmofl exertions of the men, and frequently
lames ihcm: from hcnct thry approach the Rofe Lake, the portage ol

■ #t >' *«-f •

• Here iv nuill rxftfllcni finiory foi while fidi, wl-.ieli mv v.Nf^uirite.

that

i^i

■^mm.

1?^

A GENERAL HISTORY

I'f

that name being oppofite to the jun6lion of the road from the Mountain
Lake. They then embark on the Rofe L; ke, about one mile from the
Eall end of it, and fteer Weft by South, in an oblique ccurfe, acrofs it
two miles; then Weft-Norlh-Weft pafling the Petite Perche to the Mar-
ten Portage three miles. In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and
flime, with about three or four feet of w^ater over it; and here I fre-
quently ftruck a canoe pole of twelve feet long, without meeting any other
obltruftion than if the whole were water: it has, however, a peculiar fuc-
tion or attra£live power, fo that it is difficult to paddle a canoe over it.
There is a finall fpace along the South fhore, where the water is deep,
and this effeft is not felt. In proportion to the diftance from this part,
the fu6lion becomes more powerful : I have, indeed beeu told that
loaded canoes have been in danger of being fwallowed up, and have only
owed their prefervation to other canoes, which were lighter . I have,
myfelf, found it very difficuli to get away from this attraOivc power, with
fix men, and great exertion, though they did not appear to be in any
danger of finking.

Over againft this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South fide, called
Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and feparaled from the
Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud-pond,
covered with white liliies. From hence the courfc is on the lake of the
fame name, Well-South-Weft three miles to the height of land, where
the waters of liie Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and which is one of the
^onrccs of the great St. Laurence in this direfclion. Having carried
the canoe ai»'i lading over it, lix hundred and fevcnty-nine paces, they

cmbttvk

'i^' 7^'

^.••-•- ^.^, «

V,.>A^*-

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. li

embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre*. which is in the (hape of ^v.
horfe-{hoc. It is entered near the curve, and left at the extremity of
the Weftern limb, through a very {hallow channel, where the canoe
pafles half loaded for thirty paces with the current, which leads through
the fucceeding lakes and rivers, and difembogues itfelf, by the river
Nelfon, into Hudfon's-Bay. The firll of thefe is Lac de pierres a fufil,
running Well-South-Weft feven miles long, and two wide, and, making
an angle at North- Weft one mile more, becomes a river for half a mile,
tumbling over a rock, and forming a fall and portage, called the Elcalier,
of fifty-five paces; but from hence it is neither lake or river, but pof-
fefles the chara£ler of both, and ends between large rocks, which caufe
a current or rapid, falling into a lake-pond for about two miles and an
half, Weft-North-Weft, to the portage of the Chcval du Bois. Here the
canoe and contents are carried three hundred and eighty paces, between
rocks; and within a quarter of a mile is the Portage des G'-os Pins,
which is iix hundred and forty paces over an high ridge. The o.-pofuf"
fide of it is waftied by a fmali lake three miles round; and th- ouire J3
through the Eaft end or fide of it, three quarters of a mile Norih-Fa'l,
where there is a rapid. An irregular, meandering channel, bet . eci
rocky banks, then fucceeds, for feven miles and . n half, to the Marabocuf
Lake, which extends North four miles, and is three quarters of a mile
wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge, of one hundred and eighty
paces, the rock of Saginaga being in fight, which caufcs a fall of about
fevcki feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces.

• The rout? which Vc have been travelling hitherto, leads ahjtig the high rocky land or bank of
Lake Superior on iht- left. The face of tlie couiitr) offers a wild fcenc of hugr hills ami rucks, (eparaliil
by IU)ny vallies, takes, and ponds. VN'horevcr thcie it the IcaQ foil, it Is wcU covered with trce!^.

g « Lake

:i: 1

A GFA'ERAL HISTORY

Lake Saginaga takes its names from its numerous Hlands. Its greated
length from Eafl to Weft is about fourteen miles, with very irregular
inlets, is no where more than three miles wide, and terminates at the fmall
portage of La Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a rocky,
flony pafTageof one mile^ to Priarie Portage, which is very improperly
named, as there is no ground about it that anfwers to that defcrip-
tion, except a fmall fpot at the embarking place at the Well end :
to the Eaft is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that the
lading can be landed upon (lages, formed by driving piles into the mud,
and rpreading branches of trees over them. The portage r^fes on a ftony
ridge, over which the canoe and cargo mud be carried for fix hundred
and eleven paces. This is fucceeded by an embarkation on a fmall
bay, where the bottom is the fame as has been defcribed in the Weft end
of Rofe Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked
over it, but it docs not comprehend more than a diflance of two hundred
yards. From hence the progrefs continues through irregular channels,
bounded by rocks, in a Wedcrly courfe for about five miles, to the little
Portage des Couteau::, of one hundred and fixty-fivc paces, and the
Lac des Couteaux, running about South- Weft by Weft twelve miles,
and from a quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs Eaft three
miles from tht W»*ft end, where it is difcharged by a rapid river, and
after runnj-^ two xnile^ Weft, it again becomes ftill water. In this river
arc two tari^ing-ploce the one fifteen, and the other one hundred
and ninety puccp. I'rom this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile North-
Weft, leaving a narrow lake on the Eaft that runs parallel with the
Lake dt's Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place, which
is uftd vhcn the water in the river laft mrtuioned is loo low. The

Portage

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

IHi

Portage des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from whence the
water fpreads irregularly between rocks, five miles North-Weft and
South-Eaft to the portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and
eighty paces. Then follows the lake of that name, but I think impro-
perly i'o called, as the natives name it the Lake Pafcau Minac
Sagaigan, or Dry Berries. [vti-r: •? -•■("•

>i','! U.

(I .rnj'iR ■' tf?' .1 •» fi..;. ^\l I'-iM ,f r'

■"■-^I . <-» -1-U r-

■ ■ Before the fmall pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the
Nodowafis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplifli, the deftruc-
tion of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous : this was alfo
a favourite part, where they made their canoes, &c. the lake abounding
in fifli, the country round it being plentifully' fupplicd with various kinds
of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries of the water,
covered with a variety of berries. ■, ' ; :, ,, , ;,

,;;.A;iff Tjiw I. *i\ "^iioh tiT'li 'ynul (\> : : i' ' ,:•. -f ».. ;;

When the French were in pofTefrion of this country, they had feveral
trading eftablithments on the iflands and banks of this lake. Since that
period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin nation,
could hardly find fubfiftence; game having become fo fcarce, that they
depended principally for food upon fifh, and wild rice which grows
fpontancoully in ihefe parts. .u v.; .. tfi, ,,i ? ,• i i-. . , .

This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmoft extent from Eaft to
Weft is fifteen miles ; a point of land, calltd Point au Piu, jutting into it
divides it in two parts : >t then makes a fecond angle at the Weft end, to
the lelfer Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in length. I'lm cl.an-
hel is not wide, and is ititercepted by feveral rapids in the courfe of a

mile ;

\' >

■t^4i-

!■: "

. ,.. J

»! m

liv

A GENERAL HISTORY

mile: it runs Weft-Ncrth-Weft to the Portage des Pins, over which the
canoe and lading is again carried four hundred paces. From hence
the channel is alfo intercepted by very dangerous rapids for two miles
Wefterly, to the point of Portage du Bois, which is two hundred and
ciphty paces. Then fuccceds the portage of Lake Croche one mile
more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed by an
embarkation on ihat lake, which takes its name from its figure. It ex-
tends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a weRerly direflion ;
it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its length be-
comes very contra6led, with a ftrong current.

Within three miles of the lafl Portage is a remarkable rock, with
a fmooth face, but fplit and cracked in different parts, which hang
over the water. Into one of its horizontal chafms a great number of
arrows have been fhot, which is faid to have been done by a war party
of the Nat'-wafis or Sieux, who had done much mifchief in this
country, and left thefe weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives,
that, notwithftanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inacceflible
to their enemies.

* '•'

Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred
paces long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water, falling
over a rockof upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids fucceed, with intervals
of Hill water, for about three miles to the Flacon portage, which is very
difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the Lake of La Croix,
io named from its fliape. It runs about North- Weft eighteen miles to the
Beaver Dam, and then finks into a deep bay nearly Eaft. The courfe to

the

Jtli

''T^I'iJfy,,.,

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

the Portacre is Weft by North for fixteen miles more rrom the Beaver
Dam, and into the Eall bay is a road which was frequented by the
French, and followed through lakes and rivers until they came to Lake
Superior by the river Caminiftiquia, thirty miles Eaft of the Grand

Portage.

Portage la Croix is fix hundred paces long : to the next portage is a
quarter of a mile, and its length is !"orty paces ; the river winding four
miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs fix or feven miles North-North-
Weft, and by a narrow ftrait communicates with Lake Namaycan, which
takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a fall, where the
natives fpear fturgeon : Its courfe is about North- North- Weft and South-
South-Eaft, with a bay running Eaft, that gives it the form of a triangle :
its length is about fixteen miles to the Nouvelle Portage, The difcharge
of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one hundred and
eighty paces, to which fucceeds a very fmall river, from whence there
is but a ftort diftance to the next Nouvelle Portage, three hundred and
twenty paces long. It is then neceflary to embark on a fwamp, or over-
flowed country, where wild rice grows in great abundance. There is a
channel or fmall river in the centre of this fwamp, which is kept with
difficulty, and runs South and North one mile and a half, with deepening
water. The courfe continues North-North-Weft one mile to the Chau-
diere Portage, which is caufed by the difcharge of the waters running
on the left of the road from Lake Naymaycan, which ufed to be the
common route, but that which I have defcribed is the lafeft as well as
fliorteft. From hence there is fomc current though the water is wide
fprcad, and its coiirfc about North by Weft three miles and an half to

the

' J

t'(

Ivi

A GENERAL HISTORY •

\ii 'iMi:'''^

i mi

lit '^Ul

3 [

i'' ^ I

' 1 1 1

the Lac dc la Pluie, which lies nearly Eaft and Weft; from thence
about fifteen miles is a narrow ftrait that divides the land into tw^o un-
equal parts, from whence to its difcharge is a diftance of twenty-four
miles. There is a deep bay running North-Weft on the right, that is
not included, and is remarkable for furniftiing the natives with a kind of
loft, red flone, of which they make their pipes ; it alfo affords an excel-
lent fifliery both in the fummer and winter; and from it is an eafy, fafe,
and ftiort road to the Lake du Bois, (which I fhall mention prefently)
for the Indians to pafs in their fmall canoes, through a fmall lake and
on a fmall river, whofe banks furnifh abundance of wild rice. The dif-
charge of this lake is called Lake de la Pluie River, at whofe entrance
there is a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where ti>ere had been an ex-
tenfive pickettcd fort and building when poftefled by the French : the fite
of it is at prefent a beautiful meadow, furrounded with groves of oaks.
From hence there is a ftrong current for two miles, where the water falls
ver a rock twenty feet, and, from the confequent turbulence of the
water, the carrying-place, which Is three hundred and twenty paces long,
derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is the prelent
trading eftabliOiment, fituatcd on an high bank on the North fide of the
river, in 48. s?- North latitude. ' ''' '-'■^' ''' '''^ ''''■' '

Here the people from Montreal come to mee't thofe wRo arrive from
the Athabafca country, as has been already defcribed, and exchange
lading with them. This is alfo the refidehce of the firft chief, or Sachem,
of all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this country.
He is by diftinftion called Neftam, which implies pcrfonal pre-eminence.
Mere alfo the elders meet in council to treat of peace or war. ''^'•' '■'' "'"

This

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ivii

This is one of the fineft rivers in the North- Weft, and runs si courfe
Weft and Eaft one hundred and twenty computed miles ; but in taking its
courfe and diftance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are covered
with a rich foil, particularly to the North, which, in many parts, are
clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the pine, and the
cedar. The Southern bank is not fo elevated, and difplays the maple,
the white birch, and the cedar, with the fpruce, the alder, and various
underwood. Its waters abound in fifti, particularly the fturgeon, which
the natives both fpear and take with drag-nets. But notwithftanding
the promife of this foil, the Indians do not attend to its cultivation,
though they are not ignorant of the common procefs, and are fond of
the Indian corn, when they can get it from us.

Though the foil at the fort is a ftiff clay, there is a garden, which,
unafiifted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is tolerably
produftive. > ; / , . .. • •

We now proceed to mention the Lake du Bois, into which this river dif-
charges itfelf in latitude 49. North, and was formejly famous for the rich-
nefs of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was necef-
fary to a favage life. The French had feveral fettlements in and about
it; but it might be almoft concluded, that fome fatal circumftance had^
deftroyed the game, as war and the fmall pox had diminiflicd tlie inhabit-
ants, it having been very unprpdudivc in animals fince the Briiifh fub-
je6ls have been engaged in travelling througli it ; though it now ap-
pears to be vecovenng its piillinc Ilatc, The few Indians who inhabit

h it

#•

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.25

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Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WMT MAIN STRUT

WIUTM.N.Y I4SI0

(7U)S73-4»03

Iviii

A GENERAL HISTORY

it might live very comlorlably, if they were not fo immoderately fovd
of fpirituous liquors. - ', -' . i

Is ¥

This lake is alfo rendered remarkable, in confequence of the Americans
having named it as the fpot, from which a line of boundary, between
them and Britidi America, was to run Weft, until it ftruck the MilTiflippi ;
which, however, can never happen, as the North-Weft part of the
Lake du Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94. 31 Weft,
and the Northernmoft branch of the fource of the Mifliflippi is in lati-
tude 47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. W^eft, afcertained by Mr.
Thomfon, aftronomer to the North- Weft Company, who was fent ex-
prcfsly for that purpofe in the fpring of 1798. He, in the fame year, de-
termined the Northern bend of the Milhfoury to be in latitude 47. 32.
North, and longitude 101. 25. Weft; and, according to the Indian ac-
counts, it runs to the fouth of Weft, fo that if the Miflifoury were even
to be confidered as the Miftiftippi, no Weftern line could ftrike it.

It does not appear to me to be clearly dv^crmined what courfe the
Line is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it ftrikes through
the country to the Lake du Bois : were it to follow the principal waters
to their fource, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River
St. Louis, and follow that river to its fource ; clofe to which is the fource
of the waters falling into the river of Lake la Pluie, which is a common
route of the Indians to the Lake du Bois : the St. Louis paft'es within
a ftiort diftance of a branch of the Miftiftippi, where it becomes na^
vigablc for canoes. This will appear more evident from confulting

the

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

lix

the map ; and if the navigation of the MilTidippi is confidercd as of
any confequence, by this country, from that part of the globe, fuch is
the neareft way to get at it.

But to return to our narrative. The Lake du Bois is, as far as I
could learn, nearly round, and the canoe courfe through the centre
of it among a clufter of iflands, fome of which are fo extenfive that
they may be taken for the main land. The reduced courfe would be
nearly South and North. But following the navigating courfe, I make
the diftance feventy-five miles, though in a dire6l line it would fall
very fhort of that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a fmall
carrying-place, when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the
lake is on an ifland, and named Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North
and longitude 94^. Weft, it is about fifty paces long. The lake difcharges
itfelf at both ends of this ifland, and forms the River Winipic, which
is a large body of water, interfperfed with numerous illands, caufing
various channels and interruptions of portages and rapids. In fome
parts it has the appearance of lakes, with Iteady currents ; I eftimate
its winding courfe to the Dalles eight miles; to the Grand Dc-
chargc twenty-five miles and an half, which is a long carrying-place for
the goods ; from thence to the little Decharge one mile and an half;
to the Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then to its galet
feventy yards; two miles and three quarters to the Terre Blanche, near
which is a fall of from four to five feet; three miles and an half to Por-
tage dc L'Ule, where there is a trading-poll, and, about eleven miles,
on the North (liorc, a trading ellablidimcnt, which is tlie road, in boats,
d' ^ii .'^ ."■ h 2 . • ■ , ,' to

V 1 1

u 'I

n '1

A GENERAL HISTORY

U 'il

r '

\-i i|

to Albany River, and from thence to Hudfon's Bay. There is alfo a
communicaiion with Lake Superior, through what is called the Nipigan
country, that enters the Lake Winipic about thirty-five leagues Eaft of the
Grande Portage. In fliort, the country is lb broken by lakes and rivers,
that people may find their way in canoes in any direftion they pleafe.
It is now four miles to Portage de L'ifle, which is but fhort, though
feveral canoes have been loft in attempting to run the rapid. From
thence it is twenty-fix miles to Jacob's Falls, which arc about fifteen feet
high ; and fix miles and an half to the woody point : forty yards from which
is another Portage. They both form an high fall, but not perpendicular.
From thence to another galet, or rocky Portage, is about two.(]Qilcs,
which is one continual rapid and cafcade ; and about two miles further
is the Chute a I'Efclave, which is upwards of thirty feet. The Portage
is long, through a point covered with wood : it is fix miles and an half
more to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From thence,
on the North fide, is a fafe road, when the waters are high, through fmall
rivers and lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the Pinnawas, from the
man who difcovered it : to the White River, fo called from its being, for
a confiderable length, a fucccflion of falls and catarafls, is twelve miles.
Here are feven portages, in fo (hort a fpacc, that the whole of them are
difcernible at the fame moment. From this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen
miles more, and four miles acrofs it to the rapid. Here the Pinnawas
road joins, and from thence it is two miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet;
from this to the Galet du Bonnet one mile and an half; thence to the Por-
tage of the fame name is three miles. This Portage is near half a league
in length, and derives its name from a cuftom the Indians have of crown-
ing Hones, laid in a circle, on the highcd rock in the portage, with

wreaths,

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Ixi

wreaths of herbage and branches. There have been examples of men
taking feven packages of ninety pounds each, at one end of the por-
tage, and putting them down at the other without Hopping.

To- this, another fmall portage immediately fucceeds, over a rocL
producing a fall. From thence to the fall of lerre Blanche is two miles
and an half; to the firll portage Des Eaux qui Rcraucnt is three miles;
to the next, of the fame name, is but a few yards diftant ; to the third
and laA, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; and from this
to the lad Portage of the river one mile and an half ; and to the eftabliCh-
ment, or provifion houfe, is two miles and an half. Here alfo the French
had their principal inland depot, and got their canoes made, .

*j«j

It is here, that the prefent traders, going to great diftances, and where
provifion is difficult to procure, receive a fupply to carry them to the
Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the eltabliChment to the entrance
of Lake Winipic is four miles and an half, latitude 50, 37. North.

The country, foil, produce, and climate, from Lake Superior to
this place bear a general refemblance, with a predominance of rock
and water; the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any
foil it is well covered with wood, fuch as oak, elm, alh of dif-
ferent kinds, maple of two kinds, pines of various defcriptlons, among
which are what I call the cyprefs, with the hickor) , irun-wood.
Hard, poplar, cedar, black anii white birch, Sec. &c. Vail quan-
tities of wild rice are fcen throughout the country, wiiich the natives

colled

Ixii

A GENERAL HISTORY

colletl In the month of Augufl for their winter fiorcs * To the North
of fifty degrees, it is hardly known, or at leaft does not come to

maturity.

:-':'•■

.'ii'U

• yti-

I. t

Lake Winipic is the great refervoir of feveral large rivers, and dif-
charges itfelf by the River Nelfon into Hudfon's Bay. The firll in
"otation, next to that I have juft defcribed, is the Aflitiiboin, or Red
River, which, at the diftance of forty miles coaftwifc, difembogues on
the South- Weft fide of the lake Winipic. It alternately receives thofe
two denominations from its dividing, at the diftance of about thirty miles
from the lake, into two large branches. The Eaftern branch, called the
Red River, runs in a Southern direftion to near the head waters of the
Miiriffippi. On this are two trading eftablilhments. The country on
either fide is but partially fupplied with wood, and confifts of plains co-
vered with herds of the buffalo and the elk, efpecially on the Weftern
fide. On the Eaftern fide are lakes and rivers, and the whole coun-
try is well wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moofe-deer,
fallow-deer, &c. &c. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe,
arc not very numerous, and are confidered as the natives of Lake Su-
perior. This country being near the Miftiffippi, is alfo inhabited by the
Nadowafis, who are the natural enemies of the former ; the head of the
water being the war-line, thty are in a continual ftate of hoftility ; and
though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others generally out-num-
ber them ; it i very probable, therefore, that if the latter continue to ven-
ture out of I. .J woods, which form their only proteftion, they will foon

• 'J'ljo fruits arc, ftrawbcrrici, liiutlcbcirics, pliiinl)s, and clicirii"), hiu.loiiuls, goorebcirics, cur-
lanls, ralpbcirics, poiivs, &c.

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Ixi

be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a finer country in the world for
the refidence of uncivilifed man, than that which occupies the fpace be-
tween this river and Lake Superior. It abounds in every thing neccfTary
to the wants and comforts of fuch a people. Fifli, venifon, and fowl,
with wild rice, are in great plenty; while, at the Hime time, their fubfilU
ence requires that bodily exercife fo neceffary to health and vigour.

This great extent of country was formerly very populous, but from
the information I received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does not ex-
ceed three hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I faw, it ap-
peared to me that the widows were more numerous than the men.
The rackoon is a native of this country^ but is feldom found to the
Northward of it.

The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadawafis, who here
go by the name of Afliniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it.
It runs from off the North-North- Weft, and, in uie latitude of 51 i. Weft,
and longitude 103!. rifing in the fame mountains as the river Dauphin,
of which I ftiall fpeak in due order. They muft have feparated from
their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in peace with
the Algonquins and I^nirtencaux. ..,,,

The country between this and the Red River, is ainioft a continual
plain to the Miflifoury. The foil is fand and gravel, with a {light
intermixture of earth, and produces a fliort grafs. Trees are very
rare ; nor are there on the banks of the river fufiicient, except in
particular Ipots, to build houfes and fupply lire-wood for the trading

cRablinuuenls

Ixiv

A GENERAL HISTORY

ellablifhments, of which there are four principal ones. Both thefe
rivers are navigaMe for canoes to their fource, without a fall; though in
fome parts there are rapids, caufed by occafional beds of iime-itone,
and gravel ; but in general they a fandy bottom. - '

The Affiniboins, and fome of the Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are the
principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river, occupying
the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about its fource, being
the Hation of the Algonquins and Knifteneaux, who have chofen it in pre-
ference to their own country. They do not exceed five hundred fami-
lies. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts for their allowing
the divifion juft mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of this river
have thole animals, which are not found in the intermediate diflri6l.
They confine themfelves to hunting the buffalo, and trappmg wolvps,
which cover the country. What they do not want of the Ssrmer for
raiment and food, they fometimcs make into pemmican, oi pounded
meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the fkins in their hair, for
winter. The wolves they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat,
and prepare their fkins; all wliich they bring to exchange for arms and
ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles, with thofewho
go to traffic in their country. • -0 ''i..;

The Algonquins, and the Knlfieneaux, on the contrary, attend to
the fur-hunting, fo that they acquire the additional articles of cloth,
blankets, &c. but their paffion for rum often puts it out of their power
to fuppiy themfelves with real neceffarics.

.1,'. .-ii"

The

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Ixv

, The next river oF magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties
iifelf at the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the Well ^ide of the Lake
Winipic, latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its fource in the fame moun-
tains as the lad-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer
River, the latter palling through the lake of the fame name, as well as
thi iormer, and both continuing their courfe through viie Manitoba Lake,
which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine
miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin,
difembogues its waters, as already defcribed, into that lake. Thefe
rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, &c. the bed being generally
rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the Safkatchiwine,
abounds in beaver, moofe-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears, buffalos, &c.
The foil is good,, and wherever any attempts have been made to raife
the efcuient plants, &c. it has been found produftive. >.t,'!-

^T'st^'tr 9tit J«rtt 830.' m in ei it .v/ol "tvd ».;n..

On thefe waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin,

which was eftablifhed by the French before the conquefl. Red-Deer-
River, and Swixn -River Forts, with occafional detached ports from thefe.
The inhabitants are the Knifteneaux, from the North of Lake Wini-
pic; and Algonquins from the country between the Red River and
Lake Superior; and fome from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not
fixed inhabitants, their number cannot be determined: they do not, how-
ever, at any time exceed two hundred warriors. In general they are
good hunters. There is no other confiderable river except the
Safkatchiwine, which I fhall mention prefently, that empties itielf into

CJ jjnif)»or)fl juHr! \\u\ lO 'tliirf ^b'>v,v- >\ -DOn/i-j rub .; l'> lifi.'j V »'•

'if

t*j'

Tholc

ixvi

A GENERAL HISTORY

Thofe on the North fide are inconfiderable, owing to the comparative
vicinity of the high land that feparates the waters coming this way,
from thofe difcharging into Hudfon's bay. The courfe of the lake is
about Weft-North- Weft, and South-South-Eaft, and the Eaft end of it
is in 50. 37. North. It contra6ls at about a quarter of its length to a
ftrait, in latitude 51. 45. and is no more than two miles broad, where the
South fhore is gained through iflands, and croffing various bays to the
Clifcharge of the Saflcatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in common
with thofe of this country, is bounded on the North with banks of black
and grey rock, and on the South by a low, level country, occafionally
interrupted with a ridge or bank of lime-ftones, lying in ftratas, and rif-
ing to the perpendicular height of from twenty to forty feet; thefe are
covered with a fmall quantity of earth, forming a level furface, which
bears timber, but of a moderate growth, and declines to a fwarap.
Where the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the waters
are withdrawn, and never rife to thofe heights which were formerly
waflicd by them.

^ The inhabitants who are found along this lake, are of the Knifte-
neaux and Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not
fcarce, and there is fifh in great abundance. The black bafs is found
there, and no further Weft ; and beyond it no maple trees are feen,
either hard or foft.

On entering the Safkatchiwine, in the courfe of a" few rhifes, the
great rapid interrupts the pall'age. It is about three miles long. Through
the ^reateft part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden, according to

• the

•ip'i i

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Ixvii

the flate of the waters: the canoe and its contents are then carried
one thoufand one hundred paces. The channel here is near a mile
wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverfe the river.
The fouth bank is very high, rifing upwards of fifty feet, of the fame
rock as feen on the South fide of the Lake Winipic, and the North
is not more than a third of that height. There is an excellent fturgeon-
fifliery at the foot of this cafcade, and vaft numbers of pelicans, cormo-
rants, &c. frequent it, where they watch to feize the fifli that may be
killed or difabled by the force of the waters. —

About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again inter-
rupted by the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred
yards long; and a mile and an half from thence the river is barred
by a range of illands, brming rapids between them; and through thefe
it is the fame diftanr the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four

miles right acrofs, ana ^iit miles in length. Then fucceeds the
Grande Decharge, and feveral rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake,
which is entered through a fmall channel on the left, formed by an
ifland, as going round it would occafion lofs of time. In this dif-
tance banks of rocks (fuch as have already been delcribed), appear at
intervals on either fide; the reft of the country is low. This is the cafe
along the South bank of the lake and the iflands, while the North fide,
which is very uncommon, is level throughout. This lake runs firft Weft
four miles, then as much more Weft- South-Weft, acrofs a deep bay oij the
right, then fix miles to the Point de Lievre, and acrofs another bay again
on the right ; then North-Weft eight miles, acrofs a ftill deeper bay on the
right; and feven miles parallel with the North coaft, North-North- Weft

i a through

''■if^t-aitntaiiaasj/Kmrnc^

Ixviii

A GENERAL HISTORY

through iflands, five miles more to Fort Bourbon*, fituated on a
fmall iflandj dividing this from Mud-Lake, iou^ii ..ls.- u.%&iUQii; ,^ao

The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclufive of tlie
bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its
waters produce plenty of fi(h, pirticujarly the ilurgcon. The Mud-
Lake, and the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geefe,
ducks, fwans, &c. and was formerly remarkable for a v^ft number of
martens, of which it cannot now boall but a very fmall proportion. ,! lij

■r f*- '

The Mud-Lake mull have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but
the.jmmenfe quantity of earth and fand, brought down by the Safkatchi-
Wine,.has filled up this part of it for a circumference whofe diameter is at
lead fifteen or twenty miles : part of which fpace is Hill covered with a
few feet of water, but the greateft proportion is fliaded with large trees, fuch
as the liard, the fwamp-afli, and the willow. This land conlifts of many
iflands, which confequently form various channels, fevcral of which arc
occafionall) dry, and bearing young wood. It is, indeed, more than pro-
bable that this river will, in the courfe of time, convert the whole of the
Cedar Lake into a foreft. To the North-Well the cedar is not to be found.

From this lake the Safkatchiwine may be confidered as navigable to
near its fources in the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a
carrying-place, making a great bend to Cumberland Houfe, on Sturgeon
Lake. From the conilwence of. its. North, ^.n4 S.QHth t>r^nchqs it^.poMrfPi

-> . ..' . I ' ■ ■' ■ "r : . ■. . ... rigjj jjj(j nv

iisW 'tly i * T'"* ^'^ "^^^ * principal poll of the French, who gave it its name. ■ , , , ,,;,,;.,

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

is Weilcrly; fpreading itfelf, it receives feveial tributary Ilreams, and
encompafiTes a large track of country, which is level, particularly along
the South branch, but is little known. Beaver, and other animals,
whofe furs are valuable, are amongd the inhabitants of the North- Welt
branch, and the plains are covered with buffalos, wolves, and fmall
foxes ; particularly about the South branch, which, however, has of late
claimed fome attention, as it is now underllood, that where the plains
terminate towards the rocky mountain, there is a fpace of hilly country-
clothed with wood, and inhabited alfo by animals of the fur kind. This
has been aftually determined to be the cafe towards the head of the
North branch, where the trade has been carried to about the latitude
54 North, and longitude 114-f. Weft. The bed and banks of the latter,
in fome few places, difcover a ftratum of free-ftone ; but, in general,
they are compofed of earth and fand. The plains are i'and and gravel,
covered with fine grafs, and mixed with a fmall quanty of vegetable earth.
This is particularly obfervable along the North branch, the Weft fide of
which is covered with wood, i t^d5 h-^-'-, ,1' ,,, ..

.'^'There are on this river five principal fa£torics for the convenience of
trade with the natives. Nepawi Houfe, South-branch Houfe, Fort-
George Houfe, Fort-Auguftus Houfe, and Upper Eftablifhment. There
have been many others, which, from various caufes, have been changed
for thefe, while there are occafionally others depending on each of

them, i] WB irt)uK*d ^iJtoH^'sdj "I0 sntt/sit &rff :,rjg v>bil flsW-Hiio'^ -'i
brfB ;.SHi>n xiji nrrs cifi^^nH .'fJAv *»rv;w„i...^*, ,.: i.,«,t. ,..„ji- „vi. . .f... -, t

■j^The inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as fol-
low:

Ixx

A GENERAL HISTORY ^^

At Nepawi, and South-Branch Houfe, about thirty tents of Knifte-
neaux, or ninety warriors; and fixty tents of Stone-Indians, or Afliniboins,
who are their neighbours, ai • are equal to two hundred men: their
hunting ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to
them are thofe who trade at Forts George and Auguftus, and are about
eighty tents or up\v'ards of Kniftcneaux : on either fide of the river, their
rumber may be two hundred. In the fame country are one hundred and
forty tents of Stone-Indians ; not quite half of them inhabit the Weft
woody country ; th^ others never leave the plains, and their numbers
cannot be lefs than four hundred and fifty men. At the Southern Head-
waters of the North branch dwells a tribe called Sarfees, confifting of
about thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty men, Oppofite to
thofe Eallward, on die head-waters of the South Branch, are the Pica-
neaux, to the number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next
to them, oil the fame water, are the Blood-Indians, of the fame nation as
the laft, to the number of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty
men. From ihem downwards extend the Black -Feet Indians, of the fame
nation as the two laft tribes : their number may be eight hundred men.
Next to them, and whoexicnd to tiie confluence of the South and Nor«h
branch, are the Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about
fix hundred warriors. ..

Of all thefc different tribes, thofe who inhabit the broken country on
the North- Weft fide, and the fource of the North branch, are beavcr-
himters ; the others deal in provifions, wolf, buffalo, and ibx lliins ; and
many people on the South bianch do not trouble themfclvcs to come near

: the

I u

Mt ''

< .i

OF TKE FUR TRADE. &c.

Ixxi.

the trading eftablifhmcnts. Thofe who do, choofe fuch eftablifhments as
are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here, are the fame people
as the Stone-Indians, or Afriniboins,who inhabit the river of that name al-
ready defcribed, and both are detached tribes from the Nadawafis, who in-
habit the Weflern fide of the MifTiflippi, and lower part of theMiffifoury,
The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are from the South-Eaftward alfo, and
of a people who inhabit the plains from the North bend of the laft men-
tioned river, latitude 47. 32. North, longitude loi. 25. Weft, to the
South bend of the Affiniboin River, to the number of feven hundred
men. Some of them occafionally come to the latter river to exchange
dreffed buffalo robes, and bad wolf-fkins for articles of no great
value. . . , .

7ii:

<{;u#it

The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a diftinfl people,
fpeak a language of their own, and, I have reafon to think, are travel-
ling North-Weflward, as well as the others juft mentioned: nor have
I heard of any Indians with whofe language, that which they fpeak has
any affinity. They aro the people who deal in hories and take them
upon the war-parties towards Mexico ; from which, it is evident, that
the country to the South-Eaft of them, confifls of plains, as thofe
animals could not well be conduced through an hilly and woody coun-
try, interfedcd by waters. * " ' '»' ' '^*'

The Sarfees, who arc but few in number, appear from their Ian-
guago, to come on the contrary from the North-Wcftward, and are
of the fame people as the Rocky- Mountain Indians defcribed in my

•40i!i, ,, -..■;.'.'■--:'' ' ' " ' ■ ' ■" ' ■ Ibcond

- '■ .. ..-

-^"-'■fg|IHM»lMil.,i

;i"

Ixxii

A GENERAL HISTORY ^O

fecond journal, who are a tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the
Knifleneaux, there is no queftion of their having been, and continuing to
be, invaders of this country, from the Eaftward. Formerly, they ftruck;
terror into all the other tribes whom they met; but now they have loft,
the refpeft that was paid them ; as thofe whom they formerly confidered
as barbarians, are now their allies, and confequently become better ac-
quainted with them, and have acquired the ufe of (ire-arms. The
former are flill proud without power, and affeft to confider the others
as their inferiors : thofe confequently arc extremely jealous of them, and,
depending upon their own fuperiority in numbers, will not fubmit

tamely to their infults ; fo that the confequenccs often prove fatal, and

the Knideneaux are thereby decrcafing both in power and number :'

fpirituous liquors alfo tend to their diminution, as they are inlligatcd

thereby to engage in quarrels which frequently have the mod difuftrous

termination among themfelves. ; ^ijim ,riv/o vnll io >T^sj;',i.ffiI xi -4uyql

':••■•' •:■ • . ''"iv-" •; -vrn ^i''- -'ril'.) ■".': -" Ty'.' ;■■ '^^•^r:"^' '■'*'!' 'tUr'/ '-"M
The Stone-Indians muft. not be confidered in the fame point of view

refpcfting the Kniflcncaux, for they have been generally obliged,
from various caufes, to court their alliance. They, however,, a,re
not without their difagrccments, and it is fometinics very dififictjlt to
compofe their differences. Thcfc quarrels occafionally take place
with the traders, and fonictimcs have a tragical conclulion. They gene-
rally originate in eoniequcnce of Healing women and horfes : they
have great numbers] of the lalter throughout their plains, whicU qre
brought, as has been obferved, from the Spanilh fettlements in
Mexico; and many of them have been f<j^n even in, the back parts pf
this country, branded with the initials of their original owners names.

Thole

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxiii

Thore horfes are diftinftly employed as beafts of burden, and to cihafe
the buffalo. The former are not confidered as being of much value,
as they may be purchafed for a gun, which cofts no more than tvrenty-
one pounds in Great-Britain. Many of the hunters cannot be pur-
chafed with ten, the comparative value, which exceeds the property of
any native.

I '-,(' 1

Of thefe ufeful animals no care whatever is taken, as when they are
no longer employed, they are turned loofe winter and fummer to pro-
vide for themfelves. Here, it is to be obferved, that the country, in
general, on the Weft and North fide of this great river, is broken by
the lakes and rivers with fmall intervening plains, where the foil is goo'd^
and the grafs grows to fome length. To thefe the male buffalos rfcfort
for the winter, and if it be very fevere, the females alfo are obliged to
leave the plains. ' > " r'", *

But to return to the route by which the progrefs Weft and North is
made through this continent. t ; . , k

We leave the Safkatchiwine * by entering the river which forms the
difcharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whofe Eaft bank is fituated Cumber-
land houfe, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 102. 15. The diftance
between the entrance of the lake and Cumberland houfe is eftifnated at
twenty miles. It is very evident that the mud which is carried down by

. . .. ; v; 1/ ■■A

* It may ba proper to oblcj ve, that the French had two reltlomenti upon tljc Safkatchiwine, long
htforc, and at the coiKjiieft of Canada ; the Hr(l at the Talquia, mar Carrot River, and the other at
Nipawi, whore flu-y had aj^ricultiiril inllniments and wheel carrinijis, marks of both being found
tibout thole cftablilhmcnts, wi»ctc the ioii is exicUciit.

k the

Ixxiv

A GENERAL HISTORV^

■J If

<'>

the Salkatchiwine Ri\'Ci-, has formed the land that lies between it and the
lake, for the diftance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the river,
which is inundated during one half of the lUmmer, though covered with
wood. This lake forms an irregular horfe-flioe, one fide of which runs
to the North-Welt, and bears the name of Pine-Ifland Lake, and the
other known by the name already mentioned, runs to the EaO of North,
and is the largefl : its length is about twenty-feven miles, and its grcatefl
breadth about fix miles. The North fide of the latter is the fame kind
of rock as that defcribed in Lake Winipic, on the Weft fliore. In lati-
tt'«de 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon- Weir River difcharges itfelf into this
lake, and its bed appears to be of the fame kind of rock, and is almoft a
continual rapid. Its dire61 courf^^ is about Weft by North, and with its
windings, is about thirty miles. It takes its waters into the Beaver Lake,
the South- Weft fide of which confifts of the fame rock lying in thin
ftratas : the route then proceeds from ifland to ifland for about twelve
miles, and along the North fhore, for four miles more, the whole being
a North-Weft courfe to the entrance of a river, in latitude 54. 32. North.
The lake, for this diftance, is about four or five miles wide, and abounds
with fifti common to the country. The part of it upon the right of that
which has been defcribed, appears more confiderablc. The iflands are
rocky, and the lake itfelf furrounded by rocks. The communication
from hence to die Boulcau Lake, alternately narrows into rivers and
fprcads into fniail lakes; The interruptions are, the Pente Portage,
which is fucceeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a Dccharge,
the Carp Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude 54. 50. North, in-
cluding a diftance, together with the windings, of thirty-four miles,
in a WcOcrly dircftion. Ihc Lake dc Uouleau then follows. This

lake

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxv

lake might with greater propriety, be denominated a canal, as it-
is not more than a mile in breadth. Its courle is rather to the
Eall of North for twelve miles to Portage de L'Ifle. From thence
there is ftill water to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapic].
The diftance is not more than four miles Wefterly. After croffing-
this Portage, it is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which *
is in latitude 5^. 7. North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its"
breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It is only feparated from-
Lake du Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a fliort, narrow, and fmall
ftrait. That lake is not more than feven miles long, and its courfe'
about North- Weft. The Lake des Bois then fucceeds, the paflage to'
which is through fmall lakes, feparated by falls and rapids. The ■
firft is i D^charge: then follow the three galets, in immediate fuc--
celTion. From hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles.'
Its courfe is South-South-Eaft, and North- North-Weft, and is full of-
iflands. The paflage continues through an intricate, narrow, winding,
and ftiallo^" channel for eight miles. The interruptions in this diftance
are frequent, but depend much on the fta^ of the waters. Having
pafled them, it is neceffary to crofs the i"'ortage de Traite, . ., as it is».
called by the Indians, Athiquifipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of
the Stretched Frog-Skin, to the Miflinipi. Tiic waters already defcribcd •
dilcharge themfelves into Lake Winipic, and augment thofe of the
river Nelfon. Thefe which we are now entering are called tlic Miflinipi,
or great Churchill River. »

All the country to the South and Eafl of this, within the line of ihcr
progrels that has been defcribcd, is intcMlperrcd by lakes, hills, and!
rivers, and is lull of animals, ofihe fur-kind, as well as t)ie moolc-dccr»»

k'2 Its

>^> ''..

WfiVl

M GENERAL HISTORY.

I(^ inJialititan^s .^re the Kniileneaux Indians, who are called by the ier*
\^UUs,of the Hudfon's-Bay Company, at York, their home-guards;

1 !!,

Tbe traders from Canada fucceeded for feveral years in getting the .
Uilgffft proportion of their fur?, till the year 1793, when the fervants of
tlMMIf compaijuy. thought proper to fend people amongfl: them, (and why
they.d^id not doit before is bell known to themfelves), for the purpofe
of;trade)and fecu ring their credits, which the Indians were apt to forget.;
SrofjOithe fbort diflance they had to come, and the quantity of goods
th^yifupplied^fthe trade has, in a great meafure, reverted to them, as the
iQfir^hants fi>Qm Canada could n,ot meet them upon equal terms. What
ad4<d to the lofs of the latter, was the murder of one of their traders*,
byitho Indians^ about this period. Of thefe people not above eighty*
men. have been known to the traders from Canada, but they confift of ?^
much greater niimber. ^:

Th^ Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, received its name,
from Mr. Joleph Frobiflier, who penetrated into this part of the country
from Canada,- as early as the years 1774 and ly/Q, where he met with
the Indians in the fpring, on their way to Churchill, according to,
annual cuftom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded r
with him for as many of them as his canoes could carry, and in.
confequence of this tranfaflion, the Portage received and has fince re-
tained its prefent appellation. He alfo denominated thefe waters the
Englifh River. The Miflinipi, is the name which it received from
the Kniftencaux, when they firft came to this country, and either de-
ftroyed or dree back the natives, whom they held in great contempt,!
on many acco mts, but particularly for their ignorance in hunting

the

OF THE FUR TRADE, See. Ixxvii

the beaver, as well as in preparing, ffretching, and df yiifig the fkins of
thofe animals. And as a fign of their derifioh, they ftreiched the ffcin of a'
frog, and hung it up at the Portage. This was, at that time, the utmoft
extent of their conquefl or warfadng-progrefs Weft, and is in latitud^^
55. 25. North, and longitude 103^-1 Weft. The river here, which bears-
the appearance of a lake, takes its ndme .'om the Portage, and is full of
iflands. , It runs from Eaft to Weft about fixt^en miles, and is from
four to five miles broad. Then fucceed falls and cafcades which form
what is called the grand rapid. From thenide there is a fucceflion of
fmall lakes and rivers, interrupted by rapids and falls, viz. the Portage
de Bareel, the Portage de L'Ifle, and that of the Rapid River. The
courfe is twenty miles from Eaft^South-Eaft to North-North-Wtft.
The Rapid-River Lake then runs Weft five miles, and is of an oval
form. The rapid river is the difcharge of Lake la Ronge, where
there has been an eftabliftiment for trade from the year 1782. Since'
the fmall pox ravaged thefe parts, there have been but few inhabi-
tants ; thefe are of the Knifteneaux tribe, and do not exceed thirty^
men. The direft navigation continues to be through rivers and canals,
interrupted by rapids; and the diftance to the firft Dechargc is four
miles, in a Wefterly direftion. Then follows Lake de la Montagne,
which runs South-South- Weft three miles and an half, then North fix
miles, through narrow channels, formed by iflands, and continues
North-North- Weft five miles, to the portage of the fame name, which
is no fooner crofted, than another appears in fight, leading to the Otter
Lake, from whence it is nine miles Wefterly to the Otter Portage,
in latitude 55. 39. Between this and the Portage du Diable, are
feveral rapids, and the diftance three miles and an half. Then fuc-
cccds the lake of the fame name, running from South-Eall to North-

Weft,

'^'& M

■'^

Ull'i

:ii

Ixxviii

A GENERAL HISTORY

^ i?

i,:'.

A m

I,. H

Wefl, five miles, and Weft four miles and an half. There is then a fuc-
celTion of fiTiall lakes, rapids, and falls, producing the Portage des Ecdrs,
Portage du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the whole comprehending a
diftance of fix miles, to the lake of the latter name. On the left fide
is a point covered with human bones, the relics of the finall pox ; which
circumftance gave the Portage and the lake this melancholy denomina-
tion. Its courfe is South- Weft fifteen miles, while its breadth doe;:, not
exceed three miles. From thence a rapid river leads to Portage de
Haliier, which is followed by Lake de L'Ifle d'Ours : it is, however, im-
properly called a lake, as it contains frequent impediments amongft its
iflands, from rapids. There is a very dangerous one about the centre of
it,, >vhich is named the Rapid qui ne parle point, or that never fpeaks,
from its filent whirlpool-motion. In fome of the whirlpools the
fuftion is fo powerful, that they are carefully avoided. At fome dif-
tance from the filent rapid, is a narrow ftrait, where the Indians
have painted red figures on the face of a rock, and where it was their
cuftom formerly to make an offering of fome of the articles which they
had with them, in their way to and from Churchill. The courfe in this
lake, which is very meandering, may be eflimated at thirty-eight miles,
and is terminated by the Portage du Canot Tourner, from the danger to
which thofe are fubjeft who venture to run this rapid. From thence a
river of one mile and an half North- Weft courfe leads to the Portage de
Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des Epingles, lb called from
the {harpnefs of its ftones. Then follows the Lake des Souris, the direc-
tion aprofs which is amongft iflands, North-Weft by Weft fix miles. In*
this traverfe is an ifliind, which is remarkable for a very large ftonc, in
the form of a bear, on which the natives have painted the head and
J fnout

.''■j;V' ...

OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec.

Ixxix

fnout of that animal; and here they alfo were formerly accuftomed to
offer facrifices. This lake is feparated only by a narrow ftrait from the
Lake du, Serpent, which runs North-North-Weft feven miles, to a nar-
row channel, that conne£ls it with another lake, bearing the fame name,
and running the fame courfe for eleven miles, when the rapid of the fame
d^^noinin^tion is entered on the Weft fide of the lake. It is to be remarked
here, that for about three or four miles on the North-Weft fide of this
lake, there is an high bank of clay and fand, clothed with cyptefs trees,
a circumftance which is not obfervable on any lakes hitherto mentioned,
as they are bounded, particularly on the North, by black and grey rocks.
It may alfo be conhdercd as a moft extraordinary circumftance, that the
Chepewyans, go North- Weft from hence to the barren grounds, which
are their own country, without the afliftance of canoes ; as it is well
known that in every other part which has been defcribed, from Cumber-
land Houfe, the country is broken on either fide of the direftion to a
great extent : fo that a traveller could not go at right angles with any
of the waters already mentioned, without meeting with others in every
eight or ten miles. This will alio be found to be very much the cafe
in proceeding to Portage la Loche. ;,o.,; ■^^....^. i;. j

n«,The laft mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, Nonh-Weft
by Weft; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are fuffi-
cient to drag and fet the canoe againft the current. Lake Croche is
then croftid in a Wefterly dire6lion of fix miles, though its whole lentrth
may be twice that diftance; after which it contrails to a river that
runs Wefterly for ten miles, when it forms a bend, which is left to the

'■ South

' m

rlXXX

A GENERAL HISTORY

South, and entering a portion of :rs called the Grafs River, whofe

.meandering, courfe is about fix miles, but in a dire£l line not more than
half that length, where it receives its waters from the great river, which then
runs Wefterly eleven miles before it forms the Knee Lake, whofe direftion
is to the North of Weft. It is full of iflands for eighteen miles, and its
greateft apparent breadth is not more than five miles. The portage of
;the fame name is feveral hundred yards long, and over large fiones. Its
latitude is 55. 50. and longitude 106. 30. Two miles further North is
the comipencement of the Croche Rapid, which is a fucceflion of caf-
cades for about three miles, making a bend due South to the Lake
,du Primeau, whofe courfe is various, and through iflands, to the dif-
tance of about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake are low, ftony,
and marfliy, whofe grafs and ruflies, afford flielter and food to great
numbers of wild fowl. At its Weftern extremity is Portage la Puife,
from whence the river takes a meandering courfe, widening and con-
tra6ling at intervals, and is much interrupted by rapids. After a
Wefterly courfe of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From
hence, in the courle of feven miles, are three rapids, to which fucceeds
the Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in circumference.
Then Shagoina ftrait and rapid lead into the Lake of Ifle a la Croife, in
which the courfe is South twenty miles, and South-South- Weft fourteen
miles, to the Point au Sable; oppofite to which is the difcharge of the
Beaver-River; bearing South fix miles : the lake in the diftance run, does
not exceed twelve miles in its greateft breadth. It now turns Weft-
South- Weft, th^. ifle a la Croife being on the South, and the main land
on the North; and it clears the one and the other in the diftance
of three miles, the water prelenting an open horizon to right and
left: that on the left formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Ixxxi

in depth ; and that to the right by what is called la Riviere Creufe,
or Deep River, being a canal of ftill water, which is here four miles
wide. On following the laft courfe, Ifle a laCrofle Fort appears on a
low ifthmus, at the diftanceof five miles, and is in latitude ^5. 25. North,
and longitude 107. 48. Weft.

This lake and fort take their names from the ifland juft mentioned,
which, as has been already obferved, received it denomination from the
game of the crofs, which forms a principal amufement among the
natives.

The fituation of this lake, the abundance of the fineft fifti in the
world to be found in its waters, the richnefs of its furrounding banks and
forefts, in moofe and fallow deer, with the vaft numbers of the fmaller
tribes of animals, whofe fkins are precious, and the numerous flocks of
wild fowl that frequent it in the fpring and fall, make it a moft defir-
able fpot for the conftant refidence of fome, and the occafional rendez-
vous of others of the inhabitants of the country, particularly of the
Knifteneaux*

■;ii Who the original people were that were driven from it, wlien con-
quered by the Knifteneaux is not now known, as not a fingle vellige re-
mains of them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that
have been known here; and it is evident that the laft-mentioned confider
thcmfelves as ftrangers, and feldom remain longer than three or four years,
wit'-iout viliting their relations and friends in the barren grounds, which
they tr^m their native country. They were for fomctime treated by

11,

the

Ixxxii

A GENERAL HISTORY

the Kniftcncaux 05 enemies; who now allow them to hunt to the
North of the track which has been defcribed, from Fort du Traite up-
wards, but when they occafionally meet them, they infifl; on contribu-
tions, and frequently punifh refiflance with their arms. This is fometimes
done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it appears to be a voluntary
gift. A treat of rum is expefted on the occafior , which the Chepewyans
on no other account ever purchafe; and thofe only who have had fre-
quent intercourfe with the Knilleneaux have any inclination to drink
it.

When the Europeans firfl penetrated into this country, in 1777, the
people of both tribes were numerous, but the fmall pox was fatal to them
all, fo that there does not exift of the one, at prefent, more than forty re-
fident families; and the other has been from about thirty to two hun-
dred families. Thefe numbers are applicable to the conftant and lefs ambi-
tious inhabitants, who are fatisfied with the quiet pofreDTion of a country
affording, without rifk or much trouble, every thing neceflary to their
comfort ; for fince traders have fpread themfelves over it, it is no more the
rendezvous of the errant Knifteneaux, part of whom ufed annually to re-
turn thither from the country of the Beaver River, which they had ex-
plored to its fource in their war and hunting excuriions and as far as the
Safkatchiwine, where they fometimes met people of their own nation, who
had profecuted fimilar conquefls up that river. In that country they
found abundance of fifhand animals, fuchas have been already defcribed,
with the addition of the buffalos, who range in the partial patches of
meadow fcattered along the rivers and lakes. From thence they re-
turned in the fpringto the friends whom they had left; and, at the fame

V ' , time

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Ixxxiii

lime met ^vith others who had penetrated, with the fame defigns, into the
Athabafca country, which will be dcfcribed hereafter.

The fpring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was
occupied in feafting, dancing, and other paltimes, which were occa-
fionally fufpended for facrifice, and rehgious folemnity : while the nar-
ratives of their travels, and the hiflory of their wars, amufed and animated
the feftival. The time of rejoicing- was but Ihort, and was foon inter-
rupted by the neceffary preparations for their annual journey to Churchill,
to exchange their furs for fuch European articles as were now become
neceffary to them. The fhortnefs of the leafons, and the great length
of their way requiring the utmoll difpatch, the moft aftive men of the
tribe, with their youngeft women, and a few of their children undertook
the voyage, under the direftion of fome of their chiefs, following the
waters already defcribed, to their difcharge at Churchill Faflory, which
are called, as has already been obferved, the Miffmipi, or Great Waters.
There they remained no longer than was fufficient to barter their
commodities, with a fupernumerary, and a day or two to gratify them-
felves with the indulgence of fpirituous liquors. At the fame time the
inconfiderable quantity they could purchafe to carry away with them,
for a regale with their friends, was held facred, and r'-^erved to heighten
the enjoyment of their return home, when the amufements, feftivity,
and religious folemnities of the fpring were repeated. The ufual time
appropriated to thefe convivialities being completed, they feparated, to
purfue their different objefts; and if they were determined to go to war,
they made the neceffary arrangements for their future operations.

1 2

But

Ixxxiv

A GENERAL HISTORY

But we rnufl now renew the progiefs of the route. It is not more
than two miles from Ille a la Croire Fort, to a point of land which
forms a cheek of that part of the lalie called the Riviere Creufe, which
preferves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles;
then contracts to about two, for the diftance of ten miles more, when it
opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open horizon,
keeping the Well: fliore for fix miles. The whole of the dillance men-
tioned is about North-Wefl, when, by a narrow, crooked channel, turn-
ing to the South of Weft, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf, which is
contra6led near the middle, by a projetHng fandy point; independent of
which it may be defcribed as from fix to twelve miles in breadth, thirty-
fix miles long, and in a North-Weft dire6Hon. At the North- Weft
end, in latitude i^G. 8. it receives the waters of the river la Loche, which^
in the fall of the year, is very fhallov/, and navigated with difficulty
even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not fufficient to form ftrong
rapids, though from its rocky bottom the canoes are frequently in con-
fidcrable danger. Including its meanders, the courfe of this river may
be computed at twenty-four miles, and receives its firft waters from the
lake of the fame name, which is about twenty miles long, and fix wide;
into which a fmall river flows, fufficient to bear loaded canoes, for
about a mile and an half, where the navigation ceales; and the canoes^
with their lading, are carried over the Portage la Loche for thirieea
miles. . . ,, .

This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which aifcharge them-
fclves into Hudfon's Bay, from thofe that flow into the Northern ocean,
and is in the latitude 56. 2c. and longitude 109. 15. Weft. It runs South

Weft

j'>«.>

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixx

Weft until it lofes its local height between the Safl^atchiwine and Elk
Rivers; clofe on the bank of the former, in latitude 53. 36. North, and
longitude 113. 45. Weft, it may be traced in an Eaflerly dire6lion toward
latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude 1034-. Weft, when it appears to
take its courfe due North, and may probably reach the Frozen Seas.

From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes difplay a
fmaller portion of folid rock. The land is low and ftony, intermixed
with a light, fandy foil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver
River is of a more produ£live quality : but no part of it has ever been
cultivated by the natives or Europeans, except a fmall garden at the
Hie a la Crofle, which well repaid the labour beftowed upon it.

■/• iT

The Portage la Loche is of a level furface, in fome parts abounding
with ftones, but in general it is an entire fand, and covered with the
cyprefs, the pine, the fpruce fir, and other trees natural to its foil. With-
in three miles of the North- Weft termination, there is a fmall round
lake, whofe diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a trif-
ling rcfpite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile of the termina-
tion of the Portage is a very lleep precipice, whofe afcent and dcl'ccnt
appears to be equally impraQicable in any way, as it confifls of a fucccf-
fion of eight hills, fome of which are almoft perpendicular; ncverthclcfs,
the Canadians contrive to furmount all thefe difhcultics, even with their
canoes and lading.

, This precipice, which rifes upwards of a thoufand feet above the plain
beneath it, commands a moft cxtcnfivc, romantic, and ravifhing profpcd.
s' ' > From

Ixxxvi

A GENERAL HISTORY

From thence the eye looks down on the couiTe of the liiilc river, by fome
called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and Pelican river,
beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, which
is at once refre(hed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth, and is
confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, difplaying a moll delightful
intermixture of wood and lawn, and flrctchingontill the blue mift obfcurcs
the profpe6l. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with llately
forefts, relieved by promontories of the fincft verdure, where the elk and
buflalo find pafture. Thefe are contratted by fpots where fire has de-
flroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. Nor, when I beheld
this wonderful difplay of uncultivated nature, was the moving fcenery of
human occupation wanting to complete the pi6lure. From this elevated
fituation, I beheld my people, diminilhed, as it were, to half their fiijc,
employed in pitching their tents in a charming meadow, and among the
canoes, which, being turned upon their fides, prefented th( ir reddened
bottoms in contraft with the furrounding verdure. At the fame lime,
the procels of gumming them produced numerous fmall fpires of fmoke,
which, as they role, enlivened the fcene, and at length blended with the
larger columns that aftonded from the fires where the fuppers were pre-
paring. It was in the month of September when I enjoyed a fcene, of
which I do not prcfume to give an adequate del'cription ; and as it was
the rutting feafon of the elk, the whillling of that animal was heard
in all the variety which the echoes could afford it.

^■•^

This river, which waters and reflefls fuch enchanting fcenery, runs,
including its windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it difcharges
itlclfin the Elk River, according to t!ic denomination of the natives, but

commonly

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxxvii

commonly called by the white people, the Athabafca River, in latitude
q6. 42. North.

At a fmall diftance from Portage la Loche, fevcral carrying-places in-
terrupt the navigation of the river ; about the middle of which are fome
mineral fprings, whofe margins are covered with fulphureous incrufta-
tions. At the jun6lion or fork, the Elk River is about three quarters of
a mile in breadth, and runs in a flcady current, fometimes contrafting,
but never incrcafing its channel, till, after receiving feveral fmall flreams,
it difcharges itfclf into the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 36. North.
At about twenty-four miles from the Fork, are fome bitumenous foun-
tains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may be inferted without the
leafl refiftance. The bitumen is in a fluid flate, and when mixed with
gum, or the refmous fubltance colle6led from the fpruce fir, ferves to
gum the canoes. In its heated flate it emits a fmell like that of fea-coal.
The banks of the river, which are there very elevated, difcover veins of
the fame bitumenous quality. At a fmall diflance from the Fork, houfes
have been erefled for the convenience of trading with a party of the
Kniflcneaux, who vifit the adjacent country for the purpofc of hunting.

■i

At the diflance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old Efla-
blifliracnt, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond
in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part ol ilic world,
till the year 1785. In the year 1788, it was transferred to the Lake of
the Hills, and formed on a point on .ts Southern fide, at about eight
miles from the difcharge of the river, it was named Fort Chcpewyan,
and is in latitude r^, 38. North, longitude no. 26. Wcfl, and much

h \i\

IxxxviH

A GENERAL HISTORY

better fituated for trade and fifliing, as the people here have recourfc to
water for their lupport. , / '"^ ; .<.^

This being the place which I made my head-quarters for eight years,
and from whence I took my departure, on botl\ my expeditions, I fhall
give feme account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there,
and other circumftances conne6led with it. > ; j a ./;■: ;

. .. [

.•ill. ^

r !'■•

1* si

The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the firfl of Auguft,
do not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of
Oftober, when a neceflary proportion of them is difpatched up the Peace
River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians. Others
are fent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic with
the inhabitants of that country. A fmall part of them, if not left at the
Fork of the Elk River, return thither for the Knilleneaux, while the
reft of the people and merchandife remain here to carry on trade with
the Chepewyans.

Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any
provifion for their ludrnance; for whatever quantity might have been
obtaiuc^ from tiie natives during the fummer, it could not be more
than fufhcient for the people difpatched to their different pwils ; and
even if there were a cafiinl fupcrfluity, it was ablblutely neceflary to
preferve it untouched, for the demands of the fpring. The whole de-
pendance, therefore, of thofe who remained, was on tiie lake, and filhing
implements for the means of our fupport. The nets are fixty fathom
in length, when fet, and contain (ificen medics of five inches in dt'plh.
The manner of ufing them is as follows : A fmull llouc and wooden

I buoy

OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec.

IxxxiJt

buoy are faftened to the fide-line oppofite to each other, at about the dif*
tance of two fathoms : when the net is carefully thrown into the water,
the flone finks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its full ex- '
tent, and it is fecured in its fituation by a (lone at either end. The
nets are vifited every day, and taken out every other day to be cleaned
and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters are not
frozen, but when the frofl has fet in, and the ice has acquired its greateft
thicknefs, which is fometimes as much as five feet, holes are cut in it at'
the diftance of thirty feet from each other, to the full length of the net ;
one of them is larger than the reft, being generally abc . t four feet fquare,
and is called the bafon : by means of them, and poles of a propor-
tionable length, the nets are placed in and drawn out of the water.
The fetting of hooks and lines is fo fimple an employment as to render
a defcription unneceffary. The white fifh are the principal obje6l of
purfuit: they fpawn in the fall of the year, and, at about the fetting
in of the hard froft, crowd in fhoals to the (hallow Water, when as
many as poftible are taken, in order that a portion of them may be laid by
in the froft to provide againft the fcarcity of winter ; as, during that feafon,
the fi(h of every defcription decreafe in the lakes, if they do not altogether
difappear. Some have fuppoled that during this period they are ftation-
ary, or affume an inaflive ftate. If there ftiould be any intervals of
warm weather during the fall, it is necefl'ary to fufpend the 'ifti by the
tail, though they are not fo good as thofc which are altogether preferved
by the froft. In this ftatc they remain to the beginning of April, when
they have been found as fweel as when they were caught.*

• This fidifry requires the moO unreniiliiiif^ slicntion, as the voyaj^ini; Ciiiadmns arc equally in-
dolent, cxtrnvagaut, and iniprovultiit, when left t« thenilelvcs, and rivil the lavage* iu a neglctl of
the motvow. ' ' ' ^

. ,. m ' Thu»

A GENERAL HISTORY

Thus do thefe voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fifh, with-
out even the quickening flavour of fait, or the variety of any farinaceous
root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not rendered it
unnecefTary, might be obtained in this country to the Weftward of the
Peace River, where it lofes its name in that of the Slave River, from the
numerous falt-ponds and fprings to be found there, which will fupply ia
any quantity, in a ftate of concretion, and perfeftly white and clean,.
When the Indians pafs that way they bring a fmall quantity to the fort^
with other articles of traffic.

During a fhort period of the fpring and fall, great numbers of wild
fowl frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after fuch
a long privation of flefli-meat. It is remarkable, however, that the Ca-
nadians who frequent the Peace, Safkatchiwine, and Affiniboin rivers,
and live altogether on venifon, have a lefs healthy appearance than thofe
whofe fuftenance is obtained from the waters. At the fame time the
fcurvy is wholly unknown among them. s '

In the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, where
they barter the furs or provifions which they may have procured : they
then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and do not return
till the beginning of the year ; when they are again fitted out in the
fame manner and come back the latter end of March, or the beginrnng
of April. They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver hunt until the
waters are clear of ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, which
the Chepewyans are averfe to employ. The major part of the latter
return to the barren grounds, and live during the fummer with their

relations

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

xci

relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is derived
from numerous herds of deer. But thofe of that tribe who are moft
partial to thefe defarts, cannot remain there in winter, and they are
obliged, with the deer, to take fhelter in the woods during that rigorous
feafon, when they contrive to kill a few beavers, and fend them by young
men, to exchange for iron utenfils and ammunition.

. Till the year 1782, the people of Athabafca fent or carried their furs
regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudfon's Bay ; and fome of them have, fince
that time, repaired thither, notwithflanding they could have provided
themfclves with all the neceflkries which they required. The difference
of the price fet on goods here and at that fa6lory, made it an objeft
. with the Chepewyans, to undertake a journey of five or fix months, in
the courfe of which they were reduced to the moft painful extremities,
and often loft their lives from hunger and fatigue. At prefent, however,
this traffic is in a great meafure difcontinued, as they were obliged
to expend in the courfe of their journey, ti .;t very ammunition which
was its moft alluring objeft. - , > „

Some Account of the Knisteneaux Indians.

•f

THESE people are fprcad over a vaft extent of country. Their
language is the fame as that of the people who inhabit the coaft of
: ■ m 2 - Britifh

I'i

f ! ?1

xcu

A GENERAL HISTORY

Britifti America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Efqui-
maux*, and continues along the Coaft of Labrador, and the gulph and
banks of St. Laurence to Montreal. The line then follows the Utawas
river to itsfource; and continues from thence nearly Weft along the
high lands which divide the waters that fall into Lake Superior and
Hudfon s Bay. It then proceeds till it Ilrikes the middle part of the
river Winipic, following that water through the Lake Winipic, -to the
difcharge of the Safkatchiwine into it; from thence it accompanies
the latter to Fort George, when the line, ftriking by the head of
the Beaver River to the Elk River, runs along its banks to its du-
charge in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried
back Eaft, to the Ifle a la Crofie, and lb on to Churchill by the
Miffinipi. The whole of the traft between this line and Hudfon's
Bay and Straits, (except that of the Efquimaux in the latter), may
be faid to be exclufively the country of the Knifteneaux. Some of
them, indeed, have penetrated further Weft and South to the Red
River, to the South of Lake Winipic, and the South branch of the
Safltatchiwine.

^ i'

They are of a moderate ftature, well proportioned, and of gi^eat
aftivity. Examples of deformity are feldom to be feen among them»
Their complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair black, which
is common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in vari-
ous forms, according to the fancy of the feveral tribes, and by fome is

• The fimilarity between their language, and that of the Algonquins, is an unequiv
that tlicy are the fame people. Specimens of their rcfpeftivc tongues will be hereafter given.

proof

left

OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec.

XCIU

left in the long, lank, flow of nature. They very generally extrafl
their beards, and both fexes manifefl a difpofition to pluck the hair from
every part of the body and limbs. Their eyes are black, keen, and
penetrating; their countenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal
objefl of their vanity to give every poffible decoration to their perfons,
A material article in their toilettes is vermilion, which they contraft
with their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is
frequently added. '" -^ -c:;!:/;: ?. • , ■ i^ : ■ -

iroof

left

Their drefs is at once fimple and commodious. It confifts of tight
leggins, reaching near the hip : a ftrip of cloth or leather, called
aflian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whofe ends are drawn
inwards and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the
' waift for that purpofe : a clofe veil or fhirf reaching down to the
former garment, and cinftured with a broad ftrip of parchment fattened
with thongs behind; and a cap for the head, confifting of a piece of
• fur, or fmall (kin, with the brufli of the animal as a fufpended orna-
ment : a kind of robe is thrown occafionally over the whole of the
■ drefs, and ferves both night and day. Thele articles, mth the ad-
■< diiion of fhoes and mittens, conftitute the variety of their apparel.
The materials vary according to the feafon, and confift of dreffed
' moofe-fkin, beaver prepared with the fur, or European woollens.
- The leather is n°atly painted, and fancifully worked in fome parts with
' porcupine quills, and moofe-deer hair: the fliirts and Icggins are alfo
' adorned with fringe and tall'els; nor are the fhoes and mittens with-
f out fomewhat of appropriate decoration, and worked with a con-
'<■' fiderable degree of (kill and taUe. Thel'e habilimenis are put on, how-
.- • . . • ever,

XCIV

A GENERAL HISTORY

Ir^

ever, as fancy or convenience fuggefts; and they will fometimes
proceed to the chafe in the fevered froft, covered only with the flighteft
of them. Their head-dreffes are compofed of the feathers of the fwan,
the eagle, and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of different
animals, are alfo the occafional ornaments of the head and neck.
Their hair, however arranged, is always befmeared with greale. The
making of every article of drels is a female occupation ; and the women,
though by no means inattentive to the decoration of their own per-
fons,' appear to have a ftill greater degree of pride in attending to the
appearance of the men, whofe faces are painted with mere care than
thofe of the women. . , . , ,, ,, , . i. ,.,,,,

: :m,:. ^,'H^

?: '^^£ ,!.

' The female drefs is formed of the fame materials as thofe of the other
fex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their fhoes are commonly
plain, and their leggins gartered beneath the knee. The coat, or body
covermg, falls down to the middle of the leg, and is faflened over the
flioulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches,
both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with quill-work and
fringe ; th^ bottom is alfo Tringed, and fancifully painted as high as
the knee. As it is very loofe, it is enclofed round the waift with a flift'
belt, decorated with taffels, and faftened behind. The arms are covered
to the wrifl, with detached fleeves, which are fewed as far as the bend
of the arm; from thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the cor-
ners of them fall down behind, as low as the waift. The cap, when
they wear one, confifts of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, fewed
at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down
, . . i ' the

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

xcv

the back, is faftened to the beh, as well as under the chin. The
upper garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is di-
vided on the crown, and tied behind, or fometimes faftened in large knots,
over the ears. They are fond of European articles, and prefer thei»
to their own native commodities. Their ornaments confift in common
with all favages, in bracelets, rings, and fimilar baubles. Some of the
women tatoo three perpendicular lines, which are fometimes double :
one from the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel
on either fide to the corner of the mouth ►

Of all the nations which I have feen on this continent, the Knifte-
neaux women are the moft comely. Their figure is generally well pro-
portioned, and the regularity of their features would be acknowledged
by the more civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has lefs of
that dark tinge which is common to thofe favages who have lefs cleanly
habits.

«',Hr"

■•J.

' Thefe people are, in general, fubjeft to few diforders. The lues
venerea, however, is a common complaint, but cured by the applica-
tion of fimples, with whofe virtues they appear to be well ac4uaint-
ed. They are alfo fubjeft to fluxes, and pains in the breaft, which
feme have attributed to the very cold and keen air which they inhale;
but I fliould imagine that thefe complaints muft frequently proceed
from their immoderate indulgence in fat meat at their feafts, particularly
when they have been preceded by long falling.

They are naturally mild and affable, as well as juft in their deal-

ingSs

XCVl

A GENERAL HISTORY

' %i

J ■•

ings, not only among themfelves, but with flrangers*. They are alfo
generous and hofpitable, and good-natured in the extreme, except when
their nature is perverted by the inflammatory influence of fpirituous
liquors. To their children they are indulgent to a fault. The father,
though he aflumes no command over them, is ever anxious to in-
firuft them in all the preparatory qualifications for war and hunt-
ing; while the mother is equally attentive to her daughters in
teaching them every thing that is confidered as neceflary to their
character and fituation. It does not appear that the huflaand makes
any diftinftion between the children of his wife, though they may be
the offspring of different fathers. Illegitimacy is only attached to thofe
who are born before their mothers have cohabited with any man by the
title of hufband.

'':'i-.-.(

It does not appear, that chnfl.ity is confidi^rv^d by them as a virtue ;
or that fidelity is believed to be eflential to the happinefs of wedded
life. Though it fometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is
puniflied by the hufband with the lofs if her hair, nofe, and perhaps
life; fuch feverity proceeds from its having been praflifed without his
permiflTion : for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon ;
and the offer of their perfons is confidered as a neceflary part of the
hofpitality due to flrangers.

Wh'^n a man lofes his wife, it is confidered as a duty to marry her

♦ They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with juflice he attributed to them,
it may be traced to their conncdion with the civilized people who come into ihcir country to
jtrflfRc.

::' ' filler.

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xcvii

fiflcr, if fhe has one ; or he may, if he pleafes, have them both at the

r <
fame time.

It will appear from the fatal confequences I have repeatedly imputed
to the ufe of fpirituous liquors, that I more particularly confider
thefe people as having been, morally fpcaking, great fufFerers from
their communication with the fubjefts of civilized nations. At the
fame time they were not, in a (late of nature, without their vices,
and fome of them of a kind which is the moft abhorrent to cul-
tivated and reflefting man. I fiiall only obferve that incefl and beftiality
are among them.

When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the
father and mother of his wife, who treat him, neverthelefs, as a perfeft
ftranger, till after the birth of his firft child: he then attaches himfelf
more to them than his own parents ; and his wife no longer gives him
?iny other denomination than that of the father of her child, ., k . > ^ '

^. The profeflion of the men is war and hunting, and the more ac-
tive fcene of their duty is the field of battle, and the chafe in the
woods. They alfo fpear filh, but the management of the nets is
left to the women. The females of this nation are in the fame
fubordinate ftate with thofe of all other favage tribes ; but the
feverity of their labour is much diminifhed by their fituation on
the banks of lakes and rivers, where they employ canoes. In
the winter, when the waters are frozen, they make their journies,
which are never of any great lengih, with (ledges drawn by dogs.
il » They

XCVlll

A GENERAL HISTORY

They are, at the fame time fubjeft to every kind of domeftic drudgery:
they drefs the leather, make the clothes and fhoes, weave the nets, colled
wood, ere6l the tents, fetch water, and perform every culinary fervice; fo
that when the duties of maternal care are added, it will appear that
the life of thefe women is an uninterrupted fuccefiion of toil and pain.
This, indeed, is the fenfe they entertain of their own fituation; and,
under the- influence of that fentiment, they are fometimes known to
deftroy their female children, to fave them from the miferies which they
themfelves have fuffered. They alfo have a ready way, by the ufe of
certain fimples, of procuring abortions, which they fometimes pra£life,
from their hatred of the father, or to fave themfelves the trouble which
children occafion : and, as I have been credibly informed, this unna-
tural aft is repeated without any injury to the health of the women
who perpetrate it.

,'i.

lii

The funeral rites begin, like all other folemn ceremonials, with fmok-
ing, and are concluded by a feaft. The body is drelfed in the bed habili-
ments poffefled by the deceafed, or his relations, and is then depofited
in a grave, lined with branches : fome domellic utcnfils are placed on
it, and a kind of canopy crc^6ied over it. During this ceremony, great
lamentations arcmade, and if the departed pcrfon is very much regretted
the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the flcfliy part of their thighs
and arms with arrows, knives, &c. and blacken their faces with charcoal.
If they have diftinguifhcd thrmfelvrs in war, they are fometimes laid on a
kind of fcalfolcling; and I have been informed that women, as in the
Eafl, have been known to fncrifice tluinfelvcs to the manes of their
hufbauds. The whole of ihc property belonging to the departed pcrlbn

', ... w

OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec,

XC13C

is deflroyed, and the relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel,
any rags that will cover their nakednefs. The feaft bellowed on the
occafion, which is, or at leaft ufed to be, repeated annually, is accompa-
nied with eulogiums on the deceafed, and without any a6ls of ferocity.
On the tomb are carved or painted the fymbols of his tribe, which are
taken from the different animals of the country.

>-j

Many and various are the motives which induce a favage to engage
in war. To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his rtla-
tions, or fome of his tribe, by the maffacre of an enemy. If the tribe
ftel themfelves called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people,
in order to know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief pub-
lifhes his intention to fmoke in the facred flem at a certain period, to
which folemnity, meditation and falling are required as preparatory ce-
remonials. When the people are thus afl'embled, and the meeting fane*
lifted by the cuftom of fmoking, the chief enlarges on the caufes which
have called them together, and the nccelfity of the meafures propofed
on the occafion. He then invites thofe who are willing to fol-
low him, to fmoke out of the facred Hem, which is confidered as the
token of enrolment; and if it (hould be the general opinion, that
alfiftance is necefl'ary, others are invited, with great Ibrmality, to join
them. Every individual who attends tluTe meetings brings fomcthing
with him as a token of his warlike intention, or as an obje6l of lacrifice,
which, when the aflembly dillolves, is fufpcndcd from poles near the
place of council. _,,,

i They liavc frcquent feads, and particular rircumnunccs never fail to
U'**'f,r- , HI ., produce

1 1

iJUj

c A GENERAL HISTORY . >

produce them ; fuch as a tedious illnefs, long falling, &c. On thefe
occafions it is ufual for the perfon who means to give the entertainment,
to announce his defign, on a certain day, of opening the medicine bag
and fmoking out of his facred item. This declaration is confidered as a
facred vow that cannot be broken. There are alfo ftated periods, fuch
as the fprmg and autumn, when they engage in very long and folemn
ceremonies. On thefe occafions dogs are offered as facrifices, and thofc
which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. They alfo make large
offerings of their property, whatever it may be. The fcene of thefe ce-
remonies is in an open inclofure on the bank of a river or lake, and in
the moll confpicuous fituation, in order that fuch as are paffing along or
travelling, may be induced to make their offerings. There is alfo a par-
ticular cuftom among them, that, on thefe occafions, if any of the tribe,
or even a ftranger, fhould be paffing by, and be in real want of any
thing that is difplayed as an oflcring, he has a right to take it, fo that
he replaces it with feme article he can fpare, though it be of far inferior
value : but to take or touch any tiling wantonly is confidered as a facri-
legious aft, and highly infulting'to the great Mailer of Life, to ufe
their own exprelfion, who is the facred obje£l of their devotion.

The fccne of private liicrifice is the lodge of the perfon who performs
it, which is pre pared for that purpofe by removing every thing out of it,
and fpieading green branches in every part. The fire and afhcs
are alfo taken away. A new hearth is made of frelh earth, and another
fire is lighted. The own( r of the dwelling remains alone in it ; and he
begins the ceremony by fpriading a piece of new cloth, or a well-dreffed
moofc-lkin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and
' * " , cxpolcs

OF THE FUR TRADE, <?:c.

expofes its contents, confifling of various articles. The principal of
them is a kind of houfehold god, which is a fmall carved image about
eight inches long. Its firft covering is of down, over which a piece of
beech bark is clofely tied, and the whole is enveloped in feveral folds of
red and blue cloth. This little figure is an objeft of the moft pious re-
gard. The next article is his war- cap, which is decorated with the fea-
thers and plumes of fcarce birds, beavers, and eagle's claws, &c. There
is alfo fufpended from it a quill or feather for every enemy whom the
owner of it has flain in battle. The remaining contents of the bag are,
a ptece of Brazil tobacco, feveral roots and limples, which are in great
eltimation for their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. Thefe articles being
all expofed, and the ftem reding upon two forks, as it mull not touch
the ground, the mafter of the lodge fends for the perfon he mofl elteems,
who fits down oppofite to him ; the pipe is then filled and fixed to the
ftem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the fire in the pipe, and
a double-pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant of tobacco which is not
confumed. This arrangement being made, the men affemble, and forae-
times the women are allowed to be himible fpeftators, while the moft re-
ligious awe and folemnity pervades the whole. The Michiniwais, or
Aftiftant, takes up ihc pipe, lights it, and prefents it to the oHiciating
perlon, who receives it Handing and holds it between both his hands. He
then turns himfelf to the Kaft, and draws a tew whiffs, which he blows to
that point. The fame ceremony lie obU^rvcs to the other three quarters,
with his eyes direfted upwards during the whole of it. He holds the
ftem about the middle between the three firft fingers of both hands, and
raifing them upon a line with his forehead, he fvvings it three iniies
round from the Eaft, with the fun, when, after pointing and btiluncing it

0:, ■ . ' itt

A GENERAL HISTORY

in various direfllons, he repofes it on the forks : he then makes a Ipeech
to explain the defign of their being called together, which concludes
with an acknowledgment of paft mercies, and a prayer for the continu-
ance of them, from the Mafter of Life. He then fits down, and the whole
company declare their approbation and thanks by uttering the word ho !
with an emphatic prolongation of the lafl letter. The Michiniwais then
takes up the pipe and holds it to the mouth of the officiating perfon,
who, after fmoking three whiffs out of it, utters a (hort prayer, and then
goes round with it, taking his courfe from Eail to Weft, to every perfon
prefent, who individually fays fomething to him on the occafion : and
thus the pipe is generally fmoked out; when, after turning it three or
four times round his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in
its original lituation. He then returns the company thanks for their
attendance, and wiflies them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long
life.

Thefe fmoking rites precede every matter of great importance, with
more or lefs ceremony, but always with equal folemnity. The utility of
them will appear fr^m the following relation.

If a chief is anxious to know the difpofition of his people towards him,
or if he widies to fettle any difference between them, he announces his
intention of opening his medicine-bag and fmoking in his facrcd Item ;
and no man who entertains a grudge againfl any of the parly thus aHrm-
bled can fmoke with the facrcd llcm; as that ceremony diffipalcs all dif-
ferences, and is never violated, • '

/''

i '

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

CUi

No one can avoid attending on thefe occafions ; but a perfon may
attend and be excufed from aflifling at the ceremonies, by acknowledg-
ing that he has not undergone the necefTary purification. The having
cohabited with his wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours
preceding the ceremony, renders him unclean, and, confequently, dif-
qualifies him from performing any part of it. If acontra6> is entered
into and folcmnifed by the ceremony of fmoking, it never fails of being
faithfully fulfilled. If a perfon, previous to his going a journey, leaves
the facred Rem as a pledge of his return, no confideration whatever will
prevent him from executing his engagement.* ,. , , ,

The chief, when he propofes to make a feall, fends quills, or fmall
pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to fuch as he wilhes to nartake of
it. At the appointed time the guefts arrive, each bringing a di(h or
platter, and a knife, and take their (eats on each fide of the chief, who re-
ceives them fitting, according to their refpe6live ages. The pipe is then
lighted, and he makes an equal divifion of every thing that is pro-
vided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief fings,
and accompanies his fong with the tambourin, or (hifhiquoi, or
rattle. The gueft who bas firll eaten his portion is confidered as
the moft diftinguifhed perfon. If there Ihould be any who cannot
finifli the whole of their mefs, they endeavour to prevail on fome of
their friends to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their alhdancc
with ammunition and tobacco. It is proper alfo to remark, that at

• It is liowfvcr to be lamented, that of late there is a relaxation of the duties orijjliully attached
to thdc fi'ftiviih.

:.■-,,:•;...

thcfc

CIV

A GENERAL HISTORY »

thefe feafts a fmall quantity of meat or drink is facrificed, before they
begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth.

Thefe feafts differ according to circumftances ; fometimes each man's
allowance is no more than he can difpatch in a couple of hours. At
other times the quantity is fufficient to fupply each of them with food
for a week, though it muft be devoured in a day. On thefe occafions
it is very difficult to procure fubltitutes, and the whole muft be eaten
whatever time it may require. At fome of thefe entertainments there
is a more rational arrangement, when the guefts are allowed to carry
home with them the fuperfluous irt of their portions. Great care is
always taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be confidered
a profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them.

The public feafts are conduced in the fame manner, but with fome
additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the
necelfary provifions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception
for the numerous company. Here the guefts oifcourfe upon public
topics, repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rifing
generation to follow their example. The entertaintrents on thefe occa-
fions confift of dried meats, as it would not be pra£licable to drcfs a
fufficient quantity of freffi meat for fuch a large alfembly ; though the
women and children are excluded.

Similar feafts ufed to be made at funerals, and annually, in nonour of
the dead ; but they have been, for fome time, growing into difufe, and
^ never had an opportunity of being prefent at any of thtm.

The

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

c\r

The women, who are forbidden to enter the places facred to thefe
feftivals, dance and fing around them, and fometimes beat time to the
mufic within them ; which forms an agreeable contrail.

With refpeft to their divifions of time, they compute the length of
their journies by the number of nights pafTed in performing them ; and
they divide the year by the fuccelfion of moons. In this calculation,
however, they are not altogether correft, as they cannot account for the
odd days. ^

The names which they give to the moons are defcriptive cf the feveral
feafons.

i.-V'

May - - Atheiky o Pilhim
June - - Oppinu o Pilhim

J"'y

Aupafcen o Pifhim

Auguft - Aupahou o Pifhim

September Wafkifcon o Pifhim

Oftober - Wil'ac o Pifhim

November Thithigcn Pewai o Pifliira -

Kufkatinayoui o P'.iliim
December Pawaichicananafis o Pifliini -
January - Kufhapawallicanum o Pifliim

* o

Frog-Moon.

The Moon in which birds

begin to lay their eggs.
The Moon when birds caft

their feathers.
The Moon when the young

birds begin to fly.
The Moon when the moofe-

deer cafl their horns.
The Rutting-Moon.
Hoar-Froll-Moon. ,

Ice-Moon.
Whirlwind-Moon.
Extreme cold Moon.

February

If!

cvi

A GENERAL HISTORY

February - Kichl Piniim ... Big Moon ; fome Hiy, Old

Moon. ,<v^ ,,„,,.

March - Mickyfue Plfliim - - Eagle Moon. ■

April - Nifcaw o Pifhim - - Goofe-Moon.

Thefe people kiiow the medicinal virtues of many herbs and fimples,
ahd ^pply the Vbots of plants and the bat-k of trees with fuccefs. But
the coiijurers, who monopolize the hiedical fcience, find it neceflary
to blend myftery with their art, and do not communicate their know-
ledge. Their materia medica they adminifler in the form of purges
dhd clyfleVs*; but the Tfemedies and furgical opcratidris are fuppofed to
derive much of their effe6l from magic and incantation. When a blifter
rifes in the foot from the froft, the chaffing of the fhoe, &c. they im-
mediately open it, and apply the heated blade of a knife to the part*
which, painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A ffiarp flint
ferves them as a lincet for letting blood, as well as for fcarification in
bruifes and fwellings. For fprains, the dung of an animal juft killed is
confidered as the beft remedy. They are very fond of European medi-
cines, though they are ignorant of their application : and thofe articles
form a confiderable part of the European traffic with them.

Among their various fuperftitions, they believe that the vapour which
is feen to hover over moifl: and fwampy places, is the fpirit of fome perfon
lately dead. They alfo fancy another fpirit which appears, in the ffiape
of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a perfon deceafcd, whofe pro-
perty has not been interred with them. He is reprefented as bearing a
gun in his hand, and it is believed that he docs noc return to his reft, till the
property that has been withheld from the grave has been facrificed to it,

E\ampUs

OF THE FUR TRADE, <&c.

CVH

Examples of the Knifteneaiix and Algonquin Tongues^

Good Spirit

Evil Spirit

Man

Woman

Male

Female

Infant

Head

Forehead

' >

Hair

Eyes

•

Nofe - ■

Noftrils' ' .

Mouth

My teeth

Tongue r^

Beard

Braiu

M¥

Ears ' -

(K)jf':

Neck

Throat

Arms

Fingers -^
Nails

Side

My back -

My belly *.

;:,K')^t'.

Thighs
My knees

.h\i^i

Legs

Heart

My father

My mother

My boy (ion)

My giiJ (daug

liter)

Knifteneaux.

Ki jai Manitou

Matchi manitou

Ethini

Efquois

Nap hew

Non-genfe

A' walli ifh

Us ti quoin

Es caa ^ick

Wes ty-ky

Es kis ocn

Ofkiwin p-'-

Oo tith ee go mow

O tqune

Wip pit tab -

Otaithani

Michitoune

With i tip

O tow ee gie

P qui ow

*0 Koot tas gy

Onifk

Che chee

Wos kos fia

O'siipiggy

No pis quan

Nattay

O povam

No clie quoin nah

Noflc

O thea

Noo ta wie

Nigah wci

Negoufis

Netiuiis

O 2

v^buoiitj

..br;

S,!:

,: $ ;

\ r

Algonquin^

Ki jai Manitou.

Matchi manitou.

Inini. H

Ich-quois.

Aquoifi.

Non-genfe

Abi nont-chen. -^ ,4

O'chiti-goine. • "[

O catick.

Wineflis.

Ofkingick.

O'chengewane.

Ni-de-ni-guom.

O tonne.

Nibit.

O-tai-na-ni.

Omichitonn.

Aba-e winikan.

O-ta wagane.

O'quoi gan.

Nigon dagane,

O nic. 'fv'

Ni nid gincs. i

Os-kenge.

Opikegan. : <,

Ni-pi quoini. i

Ni ray fat.

Obouame

Ni gui tick.

Ni gatte.

Othai. :^

NoHai.

Nigah .

Nigouifu's

Nidanifs.

■'•?■

..;f!.i

cvm

A GENERAL HISTORY

My brother, elder ■

My fifter, elder

My grandfather

My grandmother ■

My uncle

My nephew

My niece

My mother in law ■

My brother in law •

My companion

My hufband

Blood

Old Man

I am angry

I fear

Joy -

Heanng

Track

Chief, great ruler -

Thief

Excrement

Buffalo

Ferret

Polecat

Elk

Rein deer -

Fallow deer

Beaver

Woolverine

Squirrel

Minx

Otter

Wolf

Hare

Marten

Moofe - •'-i

Bear

Filher

Knift.eneaux.

Ni ftefs

Ne mifs

Ne moo fhum

N' o kum

N' oSia mifs

Ne too fim

Ne too fim efquois

Nifigoufe

Nittah

Ne wechi wagan

Ni nap pem

Mith coo

Shi nap

Ne kis fi wafli en

Ne goos tow

Ne hea tha torn

Pethom

Mis conna

Haukimah

Kifmouthefk

Meyee

Mouftouche

Si^ous

Shicak

Mouftouche

Attick

Attick 7

Amifk

Qui qua katch

Lnnequachas

Sa quafue

Nekick

Mayegan

Wapouce

Wappiftan

Moulwah

Mafqud

Wijafk • * -

Algonquin,

Nis-a-yen.

Nimifain.

Ni-mi-chomifs.

No-co-mifs.

Ni ni michoraen.

Ne do jim.

Ni-do jim equois.

Ni figoufifs.

Nitah.

Ni-wit-chi-wagan,

Ni na bem.

Mifquoi.

Aki win fe.

Nif katilfiwine.

Nifeft gufe.

My>rr-oud gikifi.

Oda wagan.

Pemi ka wois.

Kitchi onodis.

Ke moutifke.

Moui.

Pichike.

Shingoufs.

Shi-kak.

Michai woi.

Atick.

Wa wafquefh.

Amic.

Quin quoagki.

Otchi ta mou,

Shaugouch.

Ni guick.

Maygan.

Wapouce.

Wabichinfe.

Monfe

Macqua.

Od-jifck.

Lynx

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

cix

Lynx

Porcupine

Fox

Mufli Rat

Moufe

Cow BufFalo

Meat-flelh

Dog

Eagle

Duck

Crow, Corbeau

Swan

Turkey

Pheafants

Bird

Outard

White Goofe

Grey Goofe

Partridge

Water Hen

Dove

Eggs

Pilce or Jack

Carp

Sturgeon

White Fifh

Pikrel

Fifh (in general)

Spawn

Fins

Trout

Craw Fifli

Frog

Wafp

Turtle

Snake

Awl

Knifteneaux.

Picheu

Cau quah

Ma kifew

Wajaflc

Abicufhifs

Nofhi Mouftouche

Wias

Atim

Makufue

Sy Sip

Ca Cawkeu

Wapifeu

Mes fei thew

Okes kew

Pethefew

Nifcag

Wey Wois

Peftafifh

Pithew

Chiquibifli

Omi Mee.

Wa Wah

Kenonge

Na may bin

Na May

Aticaming

Oc-chaw

Kenong6

Waquon

Chi chi kan

Nay goufe

A mag gee

Athick

Ah moo

Mikinack

Kinibick

Ofcajick

Algonquin.

Pechou.

Kack. >

Wagouche. '

Wa-jack. ^

Wai wa be gou noge.
Nochena pichik.
Wi-afs. - ^ Jr

I. .J «

Ani-moufe.

Me-guiffis.

Shi-fip.

Ka Kak. -

Wa-pe-fy.

MiffifTay.

Ajack.

Pi-na-fy. "

Nic kack.

Woi wois.

Pos ta kiflc.

Pen ainfe.

Che qui bis.

O mi-mis.

Wa Weni.

Kenonge.

Na me bine.

Na Maiu. ■ \l

Aticaming. < ■ • I^

Oh-ga. )

Ki-cons.

Wa auock.

O nidj-igan.

Na Men Goufe.

A cha kens chacque.

O ma ka ki.

A mon. '^

Mi-ki-nack.

Ki nai bick.

Ma-gofe.

Needle

H/J5 (^

h' ^t

Needle

Fire Steel

Fire wood

Cradle

Dagger

Arrow

Fifh Hook

Ear-bob

Comb

Net

Tree

Wood

Paddle

Cahoe

Birch Rind

Bark

Touch Wood

Leaf

Grafs

Rafpberries

Strawberries

Afhes

Fire

Grapes

Fog

Mud

Currant

Road

Winter

IHand

Lake

Sun

Moon

A GENERAL HISTORY

Day

Night
Snow

■^.s?-

Knifteneaux.

Saboinigan

Appet

Mich-tah

Teckinigan

Ta comagau

Augufli or Atouche

Quofquipichican

Shegaygan

Chi-kifebifoun

Sicahoun

Athabe

Miftick

Miflick

Aboi

Chiman

WaJ'quoi

Wafqiioi ,

Poufagan

Nepelnah

Maiquofi

Mifqui-meinac

O'-tai-e mipac

Pecouch

Scou tay

Shonienac .

JPakidiihow

Afus ki .

Kifijiwin

Mefcanah - p

Pipoun

MinilHck

Sagayigan

Pifim

Tibifca pcfim (the night

Sun
Kigigah
Tibilca
Counah

■•tf

r,dT

a;>u<

Algonquin.

Sha-bo nigan.

Scoutecgan.

Mi (fane.

Tickina-gan.

Na-ba-ke-gou-man.

Mettic ka nouins.

Maneton Miquifcane.

Wagagvette.

Na be chi be foun.

Pin ack wan.

Affap.

Miti-coum.

Mitic.

Aboui.

S-chiman.

Wig nafs.

On-na-guege.

Sa-ga-tagan.

Ni-biche.

Mafquofi.

Mifqui meinac.

O'-tai-e minac

Pengoui.

Scou tay.

Shomcnac.

A Winni.

A Shifld. .

Ki fi chi woin.

Mickanan.

Pi pone.

Minifs.

Sag^yigan.

Kijis.

Dibic kijifs.
Kigi gatte.
Dibic kawte.
So qui po.

■-t

Rain

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

Rain

Drift

Hail

Ice

Froft

Mift

Water

World

Mountain

Sea

Morning

Mid-day

Portage

Spring

Ri' r

Rapid

Rivulet -

Sand

Earth

Star

Thunder

Wind

Calm

Heat

Evening

North

South

Eaft

Weft

'I'o-morrow

Bone • *-

Broth

Feaft

Greafe or oil

Marrow tat

Sinew

Lodge

Bed

Knifteneaux. ■

Kimiwoin " - -^

Pewan - -

Shes eagan

Melquaming

Aquatin

Picafyow

Nepec " -

Meffe afky (all the earth)

Wachee

Kitchi kitchi ga ming -

KeqQifliepe

Abefah quiOieik

Unygam -

MeffoulcaTning

Sipee

- Bawaftick

- Sepeefis

- Thocaw

- Afkee
. Attack

- Pithufeu

- Thoutin

- Athawoftin

- Quifhipoi

- T a kafhike

- Kywoitin

« Sawena woon

- Conrawcaftak
Paquifi mow

- Wabank

- Ofkann

- Michim waboi

- Ma qua fee
_ Pi mis

_ Ofcan pimis

- Afstis

- Wig-waum
. Ne pa win

r>^!^

Algonquin.

Ki mi woini.

Pi-woine.

Me qua menfan.

Me quam.

Gas-ga-tin.

An-quo-et.

Ni-pei.

Miffiachki.

WatChive.

Kitchi-kitchi ga ming.

Ki-kl-iep.

Na OcK quoi.

Ounl-gam.

MinO ka ming.

Sipi.

Ba wetick.

Sipi wes chin.

Ne gawe.

Ach ki.

Anafig.

Ni mi ki. '

No tine

A-no-a-tine.

Aboyce.

O'n-a guche.

Ke woitinak.

Sha-"wa-na-wang.

Wa-ba-no-notine.

Panguis-chi-mo.

Wa-bang.

Oc-kann.

'1 luiboub.

Wicon qui wine.

Pnni-tais.

Ofkapimitais.

Attifs.

Wi-gui-wam. '

Ne pai wine.

Within

{

'I"

CXll

A GENERAL HISTORY

l»' s.

■ > :."_",.

Kniftencaux,

Within

^ Pendog ke - -

Door

» Squandam

Difh

. Othagan

Fort

- Wafgaigan

- Tabanaflc

Sledge

Cintture

- Poquoatehoun

Cap

- Aftotin

Socks

- Afhican

Shirt

- Papackeweyan

Coat

Papife-co-wagan

Blanket

- Wape weyang

Cloth

" Maneto weguin

Thread

- Aifabab

Garters

- Chi ki-bifoon

Mittens

- AnifFack

Shoes

- Mafkifin

Smoking bag

- Kufquepetagan

- Apifan

Portage lling

Strait on

- Cjiafk

Medicine

Ivias ki kee

Red

- Mes c oh

Blue

- !< afqutch (fame as black)

White

. Wabifca

Yellow

. Saw waw

Green

. Chibatiquare

Brown

•

Giey, &c.

Ugly

- Machc na goufeu

HandHime

. Catawadifeu

Beautiful

- Kilfi Sawenogan

DcaF

- Nima petom

Good-natured

- Miihiwalhin

Pregnant

- Paawie

Fat

. Outhincu

Big

- Mulhikitcc

Small or little

- Abifadieu ^ •

Short

- Chcniafidi

Algonquin.

Pendig.

Scouandam.

O' na gann.

Wa-kuigan.

Otabanac.

Ketche pifou.

Pe matinang.

A chi-gan.

Pa pa ki weyan.

Papile- co-wagan,

Wape weyan.

Maneto weguin.

AH'abab.

Ni gafke-tafe befoun.

Medjicawine.

Makifin.

Kafquepetagan.

Apican.

Goi-ack.

Macki-ki.

Mes-cowa.

O-jawes-cowa.

Wabifca. j

O-jawa. •«

O'iawes-cowa.

O'lawes-cowa.

O'jawes-cowa.

Mous-counu-goufe.

Nam bida.

Quoi Natch.

Ka ki be cliai.

Onichidiin.

And'jioko. " i

Oui-ni-noc.

Mefsha.

Agu-chin. ,,

Tackofi. .,

i liiVi'

I i

Skill

• «•

!?l

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

cxin

Skin
Long

Strong

Coward

Weak

Lean

Brave suj^m

Young man

Cold

Hot -

Spring

Summer

Fall

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven

.aui*)

->»VJU<

Knifleneaux,

Wian
Kinwain

Malcawa , - |

Sagatahaw

Nitha miflew

Mahta waw

Nima Guftaw

Ofquineguifh

Kiffin

Kichatai - Vr ■

Minoufcaraing

Nibin

Tagowagonk

Peyac

Nimeu

Niflitou

Neway

Ni-annan

Negoutawoefic

Niln woific

Jannanew

Shack

Mitatat

Peyac ofap

■' i

1:'-5v, 1'

-)Ui\

Twelve
Thirteen

Fourteen

Fifteen

Sixteen

Seventeen

Eighteen

Nineteen

- "V fit;
. -i! ■ 7 -

.«

IW'

Nifhcu ofap
Nichtou olap

Neway oCap
Nianiian olap
Nigoutawoclic ofnp

Nifli wocfic ofap

Jannanew ofap

Shack ofup .

Algonquin.

Wian.

Kiniwa,

Mache-cawa.

Mas cawife.

Cha-goutai-ye.

Cha-goufi.

Ka wa ca-tofa.

Son qui taige.

Olkinigui.

Kiflinan.

Kicha tai.

Minokaminff.

Nibiqui.

Tagowag.

Pedieik. ;,j j

Nige.

Nis-woisontL-.iiranv
Ne-au.

Na-nan. ]j(.|

Ni §outa waswois. :)jjj

Nigi-was-wois. ^■Jl^^^

She was wois. v^;];)^

Shang was wois. • ,,4

- Mit-alfwois.

- Mitaffwois, hachi, pe-
wpv/f.jItfW chcik.
- \fv.ii MitaflTwois, hachi, nige.

Mitaffwois, hachi, nif-

wois.
Mitaffwois, hachi, ne-au.
Mitaffwois, hachi, nanan.
Mitaffwois, hachi, ne-

goutawafwois.
Mitaffwois, hachi,

wafwois.
Mitaffwois, hachi,

wafwois.
Mitaffwois, liachi, (hang

as wois,

Twenty

ilW

>[UiJ^t

nigi
fhi-

.i-y.

■ • I

ex IV

A GENERAL HISTORY

ii.>

n m

i H^

If H

i H

'f< 11

' i

Twenty
Twenty-one

Twenty-two, &c.

Thirty
Forty
Fifty
Sixty

Seventy
Eighty
Ninety
Hundred
Two Hundred

One thoufand

Firft - •' "■*

Laft '

Better

Beft

I, or me

You, or thou

They, or them

My, or mine

Your's

Who - *

Whom

What

His, or hcr's

All

Some, or fome few

The lame

AH the world

All the m«n ' •

Knifleneaux.

Nifheu mitenah
Nifliew mitenah peyac

ofap
Niflieu mitenah nifhew

olap
Nifhtou mitenah
Neway mitenah
I^iannan mitenah
Negoutawoific mitenah

Nifliwoific mitenah
Jannaeu mitenah
Shack mitenah
Mitana mitinah
Nelhew mitena a mite- -i

nah - /

Mitenah mitena mite- i

nah - J

Nican
Squayatch
Minah

Athiwack mithawafliin
Athiwack mithawalhin
Nitha
Kitha
Withawaw
Nithawaw
Nitayan
Kitayan

Awoinfe

w mm

Otayan

Kakithau

Pcy peyac

Tabefcoutch

Midi acki wanque

Kakithaw £thi nyock -

Algonquin.

Nigeta-nan,

Nigeta nan, hachi, pc-
chic.

Nifwois mitanan.
Neau mitanan.
Nanan mitanan.
Nigouta was wois mi-
tanan.
Nigi was wois mitanan*
She was wois mitanan,
Shang was wois mitanan.
Ningoutwack.

Nige wack. ^^,^1,

Kitchi-wack. "' - . . ,

Nitara. - ' ''?

Shaquoiyanque.

Awa chi min. ■^>

Awachimin o nichi (hen.

Kitchi o nichi (hin.

Nin.

Kin. ■•■ >;jv";wi ^

Win na wa.

Nina wa. ' ^^

Nida yam. t

Kitayam.

Auoni. ft •>!:!.' !

Kegoi nin.

Wa. , ■<

Otayim mis.

Kakenan. ."ivl^.

Pe-pichic.

Mi ta yoche.

Milhiwai alky,

MiiU Inini wock.

OF THE FUR TRADE, See.

CSV

Now and then

Sometimes

Seldom

Arrive

Beat

To burn

To fing

To cut

To hide - -iti:^,

To cover *•

To believe

To lleep - nmf

To difpute

To dance

To give

To do

To eat

To die

To forget

To (peak

To cry (tears)

To laugh

To fet down

To walk

To fall

To work ...

To kill

To fell

To live

To fee

To come

Enough

Cry (tears)

It hails

There is . \

Kniftencaux.

". Mina

- I as-cow-puco

- Ta couchin
. Otamaha
_ Midafcafoo
_ Nagamoun - ,
. Kilquifhan -

Catann

Acquahoun

Taboitam

Nepan

Ke ko mi towock

Nemaytow

Mith

Ogitann m-'

Wiflinee

Nepew

Winnekifkifew

Athimetakcoufe

Mantow

Papew

Nematappe

Pimoutais

Packifm

Ah tus kew -

Nipahaw

Attawoin

Pimatife

Wabam

Allamotch

Egothigog

Mantcau

Shifiagan

'.-^'■Ka-

There is fomc I J ^^'"^ ^^*

\finiim<0(i

Algonquin.

- Mina wa.

- Nannigoutengue.

Wica-ac-ko.
Ta-gouchin.
Packit-ais.
Icha-quifo. f
Nagam. n

8[uiquijan. ,'; .
afo tawe.
A CO na oune.
Tai boitam. '

Ni pann. •> ,. ,

Ki (]|uaidiwine.
Nimic. ^ . >

Mih. \

O-gitoune.
Wiffiniwin. »"'

Ni po wen.
Woi ni mi kaw, . •
AninntagoufTe, > I
Ma wi. > vev ; -v

Pa-pe.

Na matape win. ^ ■ -i
Pcmouffai.
Panguilhin,
Anokeh.
Nifhi-woes.
Ata wois.
Pematis, ,j,,,
Wab.

Pitta-fi-moufs. '
Mi mi nic. '• "^ ^
Ambai ma wita, j (.,q
Sai faigaun.

■/i

Aya wan.

jUi

CXVl

A GENERAL HISTORY

It rains

After to-morrow

To-day

Tlicreaway

,1.

J,K

Much

Prel'ently

Make, heart

This morninff

1 ris night

Above - .'JWRJ-

Beiow .jauo kh •

Truly -'viriwo.

Already - fii-

Yet, more titv/ih":L-

Yefterday

Far

Near

Never

No - i^v/ <

Yes . •;>•'. ini in

By-and-bye ^ji.hi

Always - .■

Make hafte

Its long fince

.tiiUiioinsT -
■ .Ririlh/T '/I

.jjo-f-ifH iv'I

Some Account

Kaiftencaux.

Ouimiwoin
Awis wabank
Anoutch
Netoi
Michett-
Pichifqua
Quithipeh
SKebas
Tibifcag
Efpiming
Tabaffifh
Taboiy
Salhay
Minah
jifiiiTacoufhick

- Wathow

- Quifhiwoac

- Nima wecatch
Nima
Ah

Pa-nima
Ka-ki-kee
Quethcpeh
Mewaiiha ,

11"

\7-

- r,

J^IT

th.Juontf*! -

Algonquin..

Qui mi woin.
Awes wabang.
Non gum.
Awoitc.
Ni h\ wa.
Pif . inac.
V/ai we be.
Shai bas.
De bi cong.
O kitchiai.
Ana mai.
Ne da wache.
Sha Ihaye.
Mina wa.
Pitchinago.
WafFa.
Paifliou.
Ka wi ka,
Ka wine. ..
In.

Pa-nima.
Ka qui nick.
Niguim.
Mon wifha.

fliowr.JJv

of (he Chcpewyan Indians.

M'r»

'T >

11.'. ,

:::a

'kJ

'/i"

J«0

ol-

obid

i>w jo-T

ol-

•jjrrGd

<^t;

•■>vi;^

oT,

:»ih

<>r

ij^To'i

oT;

:-i (;')({ I

.0 -fJ-i

(l^ii'A

^y>

:}i\'v»

\\b\

•*t(m.

lli^

1 o

IS.

. ..' - 1.

THEY arc a numerous people, who confider the country between the
parallels bf latitude 6o. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to no. Weft,
as their lands or home. They fpeak a copious language, which is very
difficult to be attained, and furnifhes dialetls to the various emigrant
tribes which inhabii the following immcnfc track of country, whofc

boundary

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

cxvu

boundary I (hall defcribe*. It begins at Churchill, and runs along the
line of reparation between them and the Kniftencaux, up the MilTinipi to
the Ifle a. la CroiTe, pa fling on through the Buffalo Lake, River Lake,
and Portage la. Loche : from thence it proceeds by the Elk River to
the Lake of the Hills, and goes diredly Well to the Peace River; and •
up that river *o its fource aixl tributary waters; from whencj it pro-
ceeds to the waters of the river Columbia; and follows that river to
latitude 52. 24. North, and longitude 122. C54. Weft, where the Chepe-
wyans have the Avnah or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then takes
a line due Well to the fea-coaft, within which, the country is poffeffed by
a people who fpeak their languagef , and are confcquently defcendcd
from them : there can be no doubt, therefore, of their progrefs being to
the Eaftward. A tnoe of them is even known at the upper cllabliflmicnts
on the Safl-iatchiwine; and I do not pretend to afcertain how far they
may fellow the Rocky Mountains to the Eafl.

■,g^r It is not polTible to form any juft cftimate of their numbers, but it is
apparent, neverthelcfs, that they are by no means proportionate to the
vail extent of their territories, whici? may, in fome degree, be attributed
to the ravages of the fmall pox, which ^rc, more or lefs, evident

. Uioughout this part of the continent. ,^,j^^,^., ,;.,,, [.Iji,..,,., ,,,,,. i,,,j,,^

The notion which thefe people entertain of the creation, is of a very

* Thofc of them who come to tiMclc witli us, ilo not fxcccd ci' lit hundred men, and have a
liiiall(.'r!n|» of the ICiiiOt'iu'.uix tong.ic, in Which tlicy cmy on then- dta.ings willi us.

+ Tlic <oa(l is inhibiii'd on tlio Nonli-Wcfl' by, the i:flurnuu.'<, imd ou tlio Pacific Oc'eanly n
people Uillcrcnl from l)ijtii,

V .1 ;, ' . linguliir

:^. II

m
m

h i.

BKi

^ '

cxvm

A GENERAL HISTORY^

fingular nature. They believe that, at the firft, the globe was one vafl and
entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except a mighty bird,
whofe eyes were fire, whofe glances were lightning, and the clap-
ping of whofe wings were thunder. On his defcent to the ocean, and
touching it, the earth inflantly arofe, and remained on the furface of the
wateis. This omnipotent bird then called forth all the variety of ani-
mals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were produced
from a dog; and this circumflance occafions their averfion to the flefli
of that animal, as well as the people who eat it. This extraordinary
tradition proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finilhed his work,
made an arrow, which was to be preferved with great care, and to remain
untouched; but that the Chepewyans were lo devoid of underftand-
ing, as to carry it away ; and the facrilege fo enraged the great bird, that
he has never fince appeared. ,' i ' '--J ifj*

They have alfo a tradition amongft them, that they originally came
from another country, inhabited by very wicked people, and had tra-
verfcda great lake, which was nar*"ow, fhallow, and full of iflands, v/here
they had fuffered great mifcry, it being always winter, with ice and deep
fnow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the firft land, the
ground was covered with copper, over which a body of earth had fince
been colleflcd, to the depth of a man's lieight. They believe, alfo, that
in ancient times their anceftors lived till their feet were worn out with
walking, and their throats with eating. They defcribe a deluge, when
the waters fpread over the whole earth, except the higheft mountains,
on the tops of which they preferved thcmfclves.

Thty

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

CXIX

They believe, that immediately after their death, they pafs into aoo-
ther world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a
Hone canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an extenfive lake,
in the centre of which is a raoll beautiful ifland ; and that, in the view of
this delightful abode, they receive that judgment for their condu6l dur-
ing life, which terminates their final ftate and unalterable allotment. If
their good a6lions are declared to predominate, they are landed upon
the ifland, where there is to be no end to their happinefs; which, how-
ever, according to their notions, confifts in an eternal enjoyment of
fenfual pleafure, and carnal gratification. But if their bad aftions weigh
down the balance, the ftone canoe finks at once, and leaves them up to
their chins in the water, to behold and regret the reward enjoyed by
the good, and eternally ftruggling, but with unavailing endeavours, to
reach the blifsful ifland, from which they are excluded for ever. i .,

They have forae faint notions of the tranfmigration of the foul ; fo
that if a child be born with teeth, they inllantly imagine, from its pre-
mature appearance, that it bears a refemblance to fome perfon who
had lived to an advanced period, and that he has alfumed a renovated
life, with thele extraordinary tokens of maturity.

The Chepewyans are fober, timorous, and vagrant, with a felfifli dif-
. pofition which has fometimes created fufpicions of their integrity. Their
. ftature has nothing remarkable in it; but though they arc feldom corpu-
lent, they are fometimes robuft. Their complexion is fwarthy ; their fea-
tures coarfe, and their hair lank, but not always of a dingy black ; nor have
they univerfally the piercing eye, which generally animates the Indian.

countenance.

I'M

cxx

A G£N£kAL MIS TORY

countenance. The women have a more agreeable afpeft than the men,
but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from their being accuftoraed,
nine months in the year, to travel on fnow-fhoes and drag Hedges
of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are very fubmif-
five to their hu (bands, who have, however, their fits of jealoufy; and,
for very trifling caufes, treat them with fuch cruelty as fometimes to oc-
cafion their death. They are frequently obje6ts of traffic ; and the father
poffefles the right of difpofing of his daughter*. The men in general
extra6l their beards, though fome of them are feen to prefer a bufliy,
black beard, to a fmooth chin. They cut their hair in various forms, or
leave it in a long, natural flow, according as their caprice or fancy
fuggefls. The women always wear it in great length, and fome of them
art very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time appear de-
fpoiled of their trefles, it is to be efl;eemed a proof of the huflDand's
jealoufy, and is confidered as a feverer punifliment than manual cor-
rection. Both fexes have blue or black bars, or from one to four
ftraight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to diftinguifli the tribe to
which they belong. Thefe marks are either tatoocd, or made by draw-
ing a thread, dipped in the neceflary colour, beneath the ikin. 'ii^uA

There arc no people more attentive to the comforts of their drefs, or
Icfs anxious rcfpcding its exterior nppearance. In the winter it is com-
pofcd of ilic fl^ins of deer, and their fawns, and dreffed as fine as any
chamois leather, in the hair. In the fummcr their apparel is the fame,
except that it is prepared without the hair. I'heir fhoes and leggins
9Vi,d >a , .ioaid I )un 3wd .Anui Vitid w^ij.iiiifi ,3htt0a a^tui

■ f They do pot, Iiowcvfv, full ihcm ;i"> flivcSi bat as comp;iui^ms to thofe wIjo are fuppofed to live
more comroiiuMy tn.iu ilicmk-Ivcs, - ' . \.. » , v

iUu

■ ■-I J I

are

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

CXXl

are fewn together, the latter reaching upwards to the middle, and being
fupported by a belt, under which a fmall piece of leather is drawn to
cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both before and
behind. In the flioes they put the hair of the moofe or rein-deer with
additional pieces of leather as focks. The fhirt or coat, when girted
round the w^aift, reaches to the middle of the thigh, and the mittens
are lewed to the fleeves, or are fufpended by firings from the fhoulders,
A ruff or tippet furrounds the neck, and the ikin of the head of the deer
forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made of ^'•veral deer or fawn
fkins fewed together, covers the whole. This drefs is worn fingle or
double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and without.
Thus arrayed, a Chepewyan will lay himfelf down on the ice in the
middle of a lake, and repofe in comfort ; though he will fometimes find
a difficulty in the morning to difencumber himfelf from the fnow drift-
ed on him during the night. If in his pafTage he ibould be in want of
provifion, he cuts an hole in the ice, when he feldom fails of taking
fome trout or pike, whofe eyes he inftantly fcoops out, and cats as a
great delicacy ; but if they fhould not be fufficient to fatisfy his appe-
tite, he will, in this neceflity make his meal of the fifli in its raw
ftate ; but, thofe whom I faw, preferred to drefs their vi61uals when
circumftances admitted the neceflary preparation. When they are in
that part of theii country which does not produce a fufficient quan-
tity of wood for fuel, they are reduced to the fame exigency, though
they generally dry their meat in the fun.*

The

• The provifion called Pcmican, on which the Chcpcwyans, as ivell as the other favages of this
cuuntiVt chiefly lublifl in their joiirnics, is prepared in the following manner. The lean parts of the
JIc/Ia of the larger animals arc tut in thin fliccs, and arc placed on a voodcn gialc over a flow lire, or

;'aL ' cxpoUd

CXXll

A GENERAL HISTORY

pt;.'

''t

The drcfs of the women differs from that of the men. Tlieif
leggins are tied below the knee; and their coat or fhift is wide,
hanging down to the ancle, and is tucked up at pleafure by means
of a beh, which is faflened round the wailt. Thofe who have
children have thefe garments made very full about the fhoulders, as
when they are travelling they carry their infants upon their backs,
next their (kin, in which fituaiion they are perfectly comfortable and in:
a pofition convenient to be fuckled. Nor do they difcontinue to give
their milk to them^till they have another child. Child-birth is not the
objeft of that tender care and ferious attention among the favages as it
is among civil ifed people. At this period no part of their ufual occu-
pation is omitted, and this continual and regular exercife muft con-
tribute to the welfare of the mother, both in the progrefs of parturition
and in the moment of delivery. The women have a Angular cuftom of
# cutting off a fmall piece of the navel ftring of the new-born children,
and hang it about their necks : they are alfo curious in the covering they
make for it, which they decorate with porcupine's quills and beads.

Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as any
other articles of their property, they are always confulted, and poflefjs a

in O'l; ^'rifii r* '^VH .; ,. ij' !t.a5''f| v»t;i; »r: •:>'U 1)^^14 J »ti;>fi ^^iSJjeJtalUOit')

expofed to t^ic fun, ?nd romptimcs to the froft. Thefe opfiratims dry it, and in that ftate it is pounded
between two (tones: it will then keep with caic for Icveial \ears. If. however, it k kcj)t in large
quantities, it is dil'pulcil to ferment in tlic Ipring of the year, v, hen it muft be expoled to tiie air, or it
will foon decay. Tlie infule fat, and that of the rump, whitu is much thicker in thefe wild than our
doraeflic animals, is melted down and mixed, in a boi'ing fla'.o with the pounded meat, in equal pro-
portions: it is then put in b;i(kcts or bags for th.. convcni' ticc of carrying it. Tlius it becomes a
nutritious food, and is eaten, without any further prcparatii n, or the addition of fpicc, fait, or any
vegetable or farinaceous fubflance. A little tirat reconcihs it to the palate. There is another fort
xn»de with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which in of a fupcrior quality.

-■(■ I "1,1

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxxiii

very confiderabie influence in the traffic with Europeans, and other
important concerns.

n\t r<it3if TJu

.'iyi/:ii3«5 S£

Plurality of wives is common amonr them, and the ceremony of mar-
riage is of a very fimple nature. The girls are betrothed at a very
early period to thofe whom the parents think the befl able to fupport
them: nor is the inclination of the woman confidered. Whenever a
reparation takes place, which fometimes happens, it depends entirely
on the will and pleafure of the hufband. In common with the other
Indians of this country, they have a cultom refpecling the pf-riouical
ftate of a woman, which is rigoroufl/ obferved : at that time {he muft
feclude herfelf from fociety. They are not even allowed in that fitua-
tion to keep the fame path as the men, when travelling : and it is
conlidered a great breach of decency for a woman fo circumftanced to
touch any utenfils of manly occupation. Such a circumftance is fup-
pofed to defile them, fo that their fubfequent ufe would be followed
by certain mifchief or misfortune. There are particular fkins which the
women never touch, as of the bear and wolf; and thofe animals the
men are feldom known to kill. oi h-mw v vw 1 •>

They are not remarkable for their adivity as hunters, which is owing
to the eafe with which they fnare deer and fpear fi{h : and thefe occupa-
tions are not beyond the ftrength of their old men, women, and boys : fo
that they participate in thofe laborious occupations, which among their
neighbours, are confined to the women. They make war on the Efqui-
niaux, who cannot refill their ftjperior numbers, and put them to death,
as it is a principle with them never to make prifoners. At the fame
t ."•>- q 2 time

CXXIV

A GENERAL HISTORY '>

time they tamely fubmit to the Knifteneaux, who are not fo numerous
as themfelves, when they treat them as enemies. aoiiu^fnu

They do not affe£l that cold referve at meeting, either among them-
felves or ftrangers, which is common with the Knifteneaux, but com-
municate mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are
pofTeffed. Nor are they roufed like them from an apparent torpor to
a ftate of great aftivity. They are confequently more uniform in this
refpeft, though they are of a very perfevering difpofition when their
interelt is concerned. ti^Mio:* 0^1 ^c m-^hr^

As thefe people are not addicted to fpirituous liquors, they have a
regular and uninterrupted ufe of their underftanding, which is always
dire6led to the advancement of their own intereft ; and this difpofition,
as may be readily imagined, fometimes occafions them to be charged
with fraudulent habits. They will fubmit with patience to the fevereft
treatment, when they are confcious that they deferve it, but will never
forget or forgive any wanton or unneceffary rigour. A moderate
conduft I never found to fail, nor do I hefitate to reprefent them,
altogether, as the moft peaceable tribe of Indians known in North
America.

There are conjurers and high-priefts, but I was not prefent at any of
their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary
manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of diforders.
Their principal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and confumption.
The venereal complaint is very common ; but though its progrefs is

^ if flow,

OF THE FUR TRADE, &c.

cxxv

flow, it gradually undermines the conftitution, and brings on premature
decay. They have recourfe to fuperflition for their cure, and charms
are their only remedies, except the bark of the willow, which being
burned and reduced to powder, is llrewed upon green wounds and ulcers,
and places contrived for promoting perfpiration. Of the ufe of fimples
and plants they have no knowledge ; nor can it be expefted, as their
country does not produce them.

Though they have enjoyed ib long an intercourfe with Europeans,
their country is fo barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordi-
nary neceifaries naturally introduced by fuch a communication; and
they continue, in a great meafure, their own inconvenient and awkward
modes of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes
they drive the deer into the fmall lakes, where they fpear them, or force
them into inclofures, where the bow and arrow are employed againft
them. Thefe animals are alfo taken in fnarcs made of fkin. In the,
former inftance the game is divided among thofe who have been engaged
in the purfuit of it. In the latter it is confidered as private property i
neverthelefs, any unfuccefsful hunter paffmg by, may take a deer fo
caught, leaving the head, {kin, and faddle for the owner. Thus, though
they have no regular government, as every man is lord in his own
family, they are influenced, more or lefs, by certain principles which
conduce to their general benefit.

In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely proceed to a greater
degree of violence than is occafioned by blows, wreftling, and pulling of

•■; ^ . .,..,,, :^, ,', -r^ -,.■ ....' the

cxxyi

A GENERAL HISTORY

the hair, while their abufive language confifts in applying the name of
the moft offenfive animal to the obje6l of their difpleafure, and adding
the term ugly, and chiay, or flill-born.* /.

M-y.

.if.. 5.

Their arms and domeftic apparatus, in addition to the articles pro-
cured from Europeans, are fpears, bows, and arrows, fifhing-nets, and
lines made of green deer-fliin thongs. They have alfo nets for taking
the beaver as he endeavours to efcape from his lodge when it is broken
open. It is fet in a particular manner for the purpofe, and a man is
employed to watch the moment when he enters the fnare, or he would
foon cut his way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice, where
he remains as if he had no hfe in him. lu *,> «. .i?;.i-v',j •. ,n> , .

The fnow-Ihoes are of very fuperior workmanfhip. The mner part of
their frame is ilraight, the outer one is curved, and it is pointed at both
ends, with that in front turned up. They are alfo laced with great
neatnefs with tnongs made of deer-ikin. The Hedges are formed of thin
flips of board turned up alfo in front, and are highly polifhed with
crooked knives, in order to Aide iilong with facility. Clofe-graincd
wood is, on that account, the bell ; but theirs are made oF the red or
fwamp fpruce-fir tree. , , .,. ,^, ,, , ,. .

The country, which thefe people claim as their land, has a very
fmall quantity of earth, and produces little or no wood or herbage.

:-*<:»•» ti* ' . yi 7 j-=. -I .i[f. . :.■ ■! '. ,il

• Tliij name is nlfo applicable to the foetus of an attinml, when killed, which is conHdci-d as oiM
of the grcateft delicacies.

of TVtt FUk tRADE, &c.

CXXVll

Its chief vegetable fubUance is the rriofs, on which the deer feed; and
a kind of rock mofs, which, in titnes of fcarcity, preferves the lives of
the natives. When boiled in water, it diflblves into a clammy, glutinous,
fubftance, that affords a very fufficient nouriOiment. But, notwithlland-
ing the barren ftate of -their country, with proper care and economy,
thrfe people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound with fifh,
and the hills are covei'ed with deer. Though, of all the Indian people
of this continent they arc conhdered as the mod provident, they fuffer
feverely at certain fcafons, and particularly in the dead of winter, when
they are under the neceffity of retiring to their fcanty, flinted woods.
To the Weflward of them the mufk-ox may be found, but they have
no dependence on it as an article of fuftenance. There are alfo largci
hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and feveral kindi
of foxes, with white and grey partridges, &c. The beaver and moofe-
deer they do not find till they come within 60 degrees North latitude;
and the buffalo is flill further South. That animal is known to frequent
an higher latitude to the Weflward of their country. Thefe people
bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are found on the fuf-
face of the earth. It is eafily worked, bears a fine polifh, and hardens
with time; it endures heat, and is manulattured into pipes or calumets,
as they are very fond of fmoking tobacco ; a luxury which the Euro-
peans communicated to them.

Their amufements or recreations are but few. Their mufic is To
inharmonious, and their dancing fo av\kward, that they might be fap-
pofed to be afhained of both, as they very feldom |)ratlife either.
They alfo flioot at marks, and play at the games common among tlicm ;

■ ' but

CXXVIU

A GENERAL HISTORY

but in faft they prefer fleeping to either ; and the greater part of their
time is paffed in procuring food, and refting from the toil v ^ceflary to
obtain it.

\ !

■ .1

¥
I

They are alfo of a querulous difpofition, and are continually making
complaints; which they exprefs by a conftant repetition of the word
eduiy, " it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice.

■J ••}•." ^ ■ t.;\ ■■■>■;'- L .rri:yi'W.

They are fuperflitious in the extreme, and almoft every aftion of their
lives, however trivial, is more or lefs influenced by fome whimfical notion.
I never obferved that they had any particular form of religious worfliip;
but as they believe in a good and evil fpirit, and a ftate of future
rewards and punifhments, they cannot be devoid of religious irnpreflions.
At the fame time they manifeft a decided unwillingnefs to make any
communications on the fubjeft. / f,, ', , .

The Chepewyans have been accufed of abandoning their aged and
infirm people to perifh, and of not burying their dead; but theic are
melancholy neceflitics, which proceed from their wandering way of
life. They are by no means univerfal, for it is within my knowledge,
that a man, rendered helplefs by the palfy, was carried about for many
years, with the greatell tendernefs and attention, till he died a natural
death. That they fliould not bury their dead in their own country can-
not be imputed to them as a cullom arifing from a favagc infenfibility,
as they inhabit Tuch high latitudes that the ground never thaws; but
it is well known, that when they are in the woods, they cover their
dead with trees. Bcfides, they manifcd no common refpctl to the
iui memory

OF#THE FUR TRADE, &c.

CXXIX

memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cut-
ting off their hair, and never making ufe of the property of the decealed.
Nay, they frequently deftroy or facrifice their own, as a token of regret
and fbrrow.

If there be any people who, from tlie barren ftate of their country,
might be fuppofed to be cannibals by nature, thefe people, from the
difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable
to t\^SLt imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, i never was ac-
quainted with one inftance of that difpofuion ; nor among all the natives
which I met with in a route of five thoufand miles, did I fee or hear of
an example of cannibalifm, but fuch as arofe from that irrefiitible ne-
ceffity, which has been known to impel even the moil civilifed people
to eat each other.

. ■■

Exa7nple of

the Chepewyan Tongue,

Man

Dinnie. . ■ ih:'^

Woman

•

Chequois. «» ', >ii.\

Young man

A:.

Quclaquis. ;

Young woman

•

Quelaquis chcquoi.

My fon

•

■ .

Zi azay.

My daughter

Zi Icngai.

My hufband

Zi dinnie.

My wife

Zi zayunai. ,. "

My brother

- ■

Zi raing.

My father

-•>.

Zi lah.

My mother

Zi nah.

!*ly grandfather

Zi unai.

Mc or my

See. ■ ;

Ne. ^ ,.;

You

•k

Nun. ;„: ;| ;,

'i hey

m ■

Ik. If

Head

ILdihic. J , i

;i.',4

Hand

cxxx

A GENERAL HISTORY

I y

«!i

ijn

Hand

Leg

Foot

Eyes

Teeth

Side

Belly

Tongue

Hair

Back

Blood

The Knee

Clothes or Blanket

Coat

Leggin

Shoes

Robe or Blanket

Sleeves

Mittens

Cap

Swan

Duck

Goofe

"White partridge

Grey partridge

Buffalo

Moofe deer

Rein-deer

Beaver •

Bear

Otter

Martin

Wolvcreen

Wolf

Fox

Hare

Dog

Beaver- (kin -;

Ottrr-fkin

Moo(c-lkin

Fat

Greafe

;: ;u,

Law.

Edthen.

Cuh.

Nackhay.

Goo.

Kac-hey.

Bitt.

Edthu.

Thiegah.

Loffen.

Dell.

Cha-gutt.

Etlunay.

Eeh.

Thell.

Kinchee.

Thuth.

Bah.

Geefe.

Sah.

Kagouce.

Keth.

Gah.

Cafs bah.

Deyee.

Giddy.

Dinvai.

Edthun.

Zah.

Zdfs.

Naby-ai.

Thah.

Naguii^ai.

Yels (Nouneay.)

Naguethey.

Can.

Sliengh.

Zah thith.

Naby-ai thith.

Dcny-ai thith.

Icah.

Thlefs.

>&^if '■■■'^ ..'.!;>l^.

Meat,

'..!«» •^'-AM^MII

|w» ^ i)«*»i <Tf ijW><'.i it-i-i-

OF- THE FUR TRADE, &c.

CXXXl

Meat

Pike

• '

White-fifti

Trout

Pickerel

Fifhhook

Fifhiine

One

Two

•

Three

4 . Four

* Five

Six

Seven

f Eight

Nine

Ten

Twenty

Fire

•

Water

Wood

^/ ■■■ Ice

Snow

Rain

Lake

m..

River

Mountain

Stone

Berries

Hot

Cold

«■

Ifland

a*.

Gun

» • Powder

Knifb

Axe

•»

Sun

„

Moon

' "•

Red

; Black

;> Trade, or

jartcr

Good

}

Bid.

Uldiah.

Slouey.

Slouyzinai,

O'Gah.

Ge-eth.

Clulez.

Slachy.

Naghur.

Tagh-y.

Dengk-y.

Safoulachee.

Alki tar-hy-y.

»/

I X /

Alki deing-hy

Cakina hanoth-na. ,

Ca noth na.

Ma ghur cha noth na..

Counn. M.; ; >^u I

Toue. - }

Dethkin.

Thun.

Yath.

Thinnelfee. ...»

Touey. , . ; .T

Tefle. ,, .

Zeth.

Thaih.

Gui-eh.

Edowh.

Edzah.

Nouey. , ;

Telkithy.

Telkithy counna.

Befs.

Thynle.

Sah.

Deli coufe.
Dell zin.
Na-houn-ny.
Leyzong.

Not

• *

;«

CXXXll

A GENERAL HISTORY, Set.

Not good

Stinking

Bad, uffly

Long unce

Now, to-day

To-morrow

By-and-bye, or prefcntly

Houfe, or lodge

Canoe

Door

Leather-lodge

Chief - .

Mine

His - - .

Yours'

Large

Small, or little

I love you

I hate you

I am to be pitied

M^ relation

Give me water

Give me meat

Give me fi(h

Give me meat to eat

Give me water to drink

Is it far off *

Is it near *

It is not far

It is near

How many

What call you him, or that

Come here

Pain, or fuffering

It's hard

You lie

What then

Leyzong houlley.

Geddey.

Slieney.

Gallaainna.

Ganneh.

Gambeh.

Carahoulleh.

Cooen. ■

Shaluzee.

The o ball.

N'abalay.

Buchahudry.

Zidzy.

Bedzy.

Nuntzy.

Unlhaw.

Chautah.

Ba ehoinichdinh.

Bucnoinichadinh hillay.

Eft-chouneft-hinay.

Sy lod, innay.

Too hanniltu.

Beds-hanniltu.

Sloeeh anneltu.

Bid Barheether,

To Barhithen.

Netha uzany.

Nilduay uzany.

Nitha-hillai.

Nilduay.

Etlaneldcy.

£tla houllia.

Yeu deffay.

I-yah.

Eduyah.

Untzee.

Edlaw-gueh.

jail lit iwnrr-n— -Tn~—TnntBBBi!lWIHIlfa

iiteM

.■art iK.>v'.'>i:

.'hnt

i JOURNAL

OF A

,.< ~

V O Y A G E,

(j.d^ 'Kifb 9f5,

- t

===== 5 -yf^v/ jism

CHAPTER L

Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the l^he ' the Hills, in company -with
M, Le Roux, Account of the pa. ^j, jprovijions, &c. DircBion of
the courfe. Enter one of the branches of the Lake, Arrive in the
Peace River, Appearance of the Irnd. 'Hayigation of the river. Arrive
at the mouth of the Dog River, S^cce/Jive defcription of federal carrying
places, A canoe lojl in one of the Falls. Encamp on Point de Roche.
Courfe continued. Set the nets, &c. Arrive at the Slave Lake. The

*" weather extremely cold. Banks of the river defcribed, with its trees,
foil, &c. Account of the animal produElions, and the fifhery of the
Lake. Obliged to wait lill the moving of the ice. Three families of
Indians arrive from Athabafca, Beavers, geefe, andfwans killed. The
nets endangered by ice. Re-imbark and land on afmall ijland. Courfe
continued along the Jhores, and acrofs the bays of the Lake. Various
fuccejjes of the hunters. Steer for an ijland where there was plenty of
cranberries and fmall onions. Killfeveral rein deer. Land on an
if and named IJle a la Cache. Clouds of mufquitoes,

VV E embarked at nine o'clock in the morning, at Fort Chepewyan,
on the South fide of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 40. North,
and longitude 110, 30. Weft from Greenwich, and compafs has fixteen

B degrees

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1789.

June.

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1789.

June.

.f'". »

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

degrees variation Eaft, in a canoe made of birch bark. The crew con-
fifted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their wives,
and a German; we were accompanied alfo by an Indian, who had
acquired the title of Englifli Chief, and his two wives, in a Tmall canoe,
with two young Indians; his followers in another fmall canoe. Thefe
men were engaged to ferve us in the twofold capacity of interpreters
and hunters. This Indian was one of the followers of the chief who
condu61ed Mr. Hearne to the copper-mine river, and has fince been a
principal leader of his countrymen who were in the habit of carrying
furs to Churchill Fa£lory, Hudfon's Bay, and till of late very much
attached to the intereft of that company. Thele circun'ftances pro-
cured him the appellation of the Englifli Chief. ^

.V. \*- "c'-V -try. •' t*frf\'A»I hI *kl\\ \i\ ^Xt\ fi^r, : |> ^^ tk -it- y .V

We"^ were alio accompanied by a cainde that I had equipped for the
pufpofe of trade, and given the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the
Company's clerks. In this I was obliged to fliip part of our provifion;
which, with the clothing neceflary for us on the voyage, a proper
afTortment of the articles of merchandize as prefents, to ensure us a
friendly reception among the Indians, and the ammunition and arms
requifite for defence, as well as a fupply for our hunters, were more
tlhan our own canoe could carry, but by th6 time we ftiould part com-
pany, there was every reafon to fuppofc that our expenditure would
make fufficient room for the whole. ■■ • .:

■fxr-

We proceeded twenty-one miles to the Weft, and tlien took a courfc
of nine miles to North-North- Weft, when we entered the river, or one
of the branches of the lake, of which there are feveral. We then fteered
North five miles, when our courle changed for two miles to North-
North

:N0RTH-WEST continent of AMERICA.

North-Eaft, and her£ at feven in the evening we landed and pitched n^-

June.

our tents. One of the hunters killed a goofe, and a couple of ducks ; <- "v-— /
at the fame time the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gummed,
which neoeffary bufmefs was effedually fflcrformed. ; ^ . ». ^

We embarked at four this morning, and proceeded North-North- Thuirday^.
Eaft half a mile, North one mile and a half, Weft two miles, North-
Weft two miles, Weft-North- Weft one mile and a lialf, Nortli-North-
Weft half a mile, and Weft-North- Weft two miles, when this branch
lofes itfelf in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that the cur-
rents of thefe various branches of the lake, when the Peace River c. y ••' '
is high, as in May and Auguft, nin into the lake, which in the
other months of the year returns its waters to them ; whence to this
place, the branch is not more than two hundred yards wide, nor
lefs than an hundred and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in
one place, where an huge rock rifcs above them. The low land is
covered with wood, fuch as white birch, pines of different kinds, with
the poplar, three kinds of willow, and the Hard, tO'nt,^^ ,^ i^.

It;

The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this fpot, and its
current is ftronger than that of the channel which communicates with
the lake It here, indeed, alfumes the name of the Slave River.*
The courfe of this day was as follows : — North- Weft two miles,
North-North-Weft, through iflands, fix miles. North four miles and a
half, North by Eaft two miles. Weft by Nortli fix miles, North one

r:Vfr;!;r^

I 1

i.i ■ • ';i>!l« . . - ... ,.

J, The Slave Indians living been drivP4i from thei', orijii\al country, by their enemies the Kniftc-
«nux, along the borders of this psrt of the river, ft rcct'fvcd thut title, though it hy no means involvci
the idea of )orvitiul«, but wa« givcit-to tiiclv fugitive* «« « term of reproach, ihut dwioVcU rowc ihan
common favaf^cncls.

*''''' B 2 mile,

'.'

June.

O V*< ''

Friday 5.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH.THE

mile, North-Eaft by Eall two miles, North one mile. We novv defcended
a rapid, and proceeded Noith^-Weft feven miles and a half, North-
Weft nine miles, North by Weft fixrailes. North- Weft by Weft one mile
and a haif. North- Weft by Mo»'th half a mile, North-North- Weft fix
miles, North one mile. North- Weft by Weft four miles, North-North-
Eaft one mile. Here we arrived at the mouth of the Dog River, where
we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at half paft feven in the evening,
on the Eaft fide, and clofe by the rapids. At this ftation the river is

lb //.fill ;ri;S ,*>iiiii jS;1' Jf

near two leagues in breadth.

i-iii

At three o'clock in the morning we embarked, but unloaded our canoes
at the firft rapid. When we had reloaded, we entered a fmall channel,
which is formed by the iflands, and, in about half an hour, we came
to the carrying place. It is three hundred and eighty paces in length,
and very commodious, except at the further end of it. We found fome
difficulty in reloading at this fpot, from the large quantity of ice which
had not yet thawed. From hence to the next carrying place, called the
Portage d'Embarras, is about fix miles, and is occafioned by the drift wood
filling up the fmall channel, which is one thoufand and twenty paces in
length ; from hence to the next is one mile and a half, while the diftance to
that which fucceeds, does not exceed one hundred and fifty yards. It is
about the fame length as the laft ; and from hence to the carrying place
called the Mountain, is about four miles further ; when we entered the
great river j The fmaller one,- or the channel, affords by far the beft
paffage, as it is without hazard of any kind, though I believe a ftiorter
courfe would be found on the outfide of the iflands, and without fo
many carrying places. That called the Mountain is three hundred and
thirty.five paces in length ; from thence to the next, named the Peli-
can,

Vss^iin

s ii

1789.

June.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. . f

can, there is about a mile of dangerous rapids. The landing is very
fteep, and clofe to the fall. The length of this carrying-place is eight
hundred and twenty paces.

The whole of the party were now employed in taking the baggage
and the canoe up the hill. One of the Indian canoes went down the
fall J nd was daftied to pieces. The woman who had the management
of it, by quitting it in time, preferved her life, though fhe loft the little
property it contained.

The courfe from the place we quitted in the morning is about North- *
Weft, and comprehends a diftance of fifteen miles. From hence to the • V"
next and laft carrying place, is about nine miles ; in which diftance there
are three rapids : courfe North- Weft by Weft. The carrying path is
very bad, and five hundred and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes
being lightened, pafted on the outfide of the oppofite ifland, which ren-
dered the carrying of the baggage very ftiort indeed, being not more
than the length of a canoe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned,
and two canoes and fome packages loft, in the rapids on the other fide
of the river, which occafioned this place to be called the Portage des
Noyh, They were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of that
year, under the direftion of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from
hence fix miles, and encamped on Point de Roche, at half paft five
in the afternoon. The men and Indians were very much fatigued ;
but the hunters had provided feven geefe, a beaver, a, d four ducks, '

, We embarked at half paft two in the morning, and fteered North- Saturday 0.
Weft by North twenty-one miles. North- Weft by Weft five miles, Weft-

V ■-

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North-

IN.; I J/'

1.'

f .

1 ,'

Jii

June.

JOURNTAL Ofi A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

North-Weft four miles, Weft fix miles, doubled a point North-North-
Eaft one mile, Eaft five mileSj North two miles. North- Weft by North
one mile and a half, Weft-North- Weft three miles, North-Eaft by Eaft
two miles, doubled a point one mile and a half. Weft by North nine
miles, North- Weft by 'Veft fix miles, North-North- Weft five miles;
here we landed at fix o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and encamped.
Nets were alfo let in a fmall adjacent river. We had a..i hend wind
during the greater part of the day, and the weather was become I'o cold
that the Indians were obliged to make ufe of their mittens. la this
day's progrefs we killed feven geefe and fix ducks.

*J«i^«A A-f«

Sunday 7. At half pall three we renewed our voyage, and proceeded Weft-
North- Weft one mile, round an ifland one mile, North-Weft two miles
and a half. South by Weft three miles, Weft-South- Weft one mile.
South- Weft by South half a mile, North- Weft three miles, Weft-North-
Weft three miles and a half. North feven miles and a half. North- Weft
by North four miles. North two miles and a half. North- Weft by North
two miles. The rain, which had prevailed for fome time, now came on
with fuch violence, that we were obliged to land and unload, to prevent
the goods and baggage from getting wet; the weather, however, foon
cleared up, fo that we reloaded the canoe, and got under way. We now
continued our courfe North ten miles. Weft one mile and a half, and North
one mile and a half, when the rain came on again, and rendered it abfo-
lutely neceftary for us to get on ftiore for the night, at about half paft
three. We had a ftrong North-North-Eaft wind throughout the day,
which greatly impeded us ; M. Le Roux, however, with his party, pafled

.v^ .„ *>n in fearch of a landing place more agreeable to them. The Indians

killed a couple of geele, and as many ducks. The rain continued
through the remaining part of the day. *

The

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 7

The night was very boifterous, and the rain did not ceafc till two in '7^9«
the afternoon of this day; but as the wind did not abate of its violence, ^ j ; ^ ~'-g*
we were prevented from proceeding till the morrow.

M Jij»

We embarlced at half paft two in the morning, the weather being calm Tucfday 9.
and foggy. Soon after our two young men joined us, whom we had not
feen for two days; but during their abfence they had killed four
beavers and ten geefe. After a courfe of one mile Norths Weft
by North, we bbferved an opening on the right, which we took
for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. We returned and
(leered South-Weft by Weft one mile and a half, Weft-South- Weft one
mile and a half, Weft one mile, when we entered a very fmall branch of
the river on the Eaft bank ; at the mouth of which I was informed there
had been a carrying place, owing to the quantity of drift wood, which
then filled up the paffage, but has fincc been carried away. The courfe
of this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and in about ten
miles falls into the Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the morn-
ing, when we found a great change in the weather, as it was become
extremely cold. The lake was entirely covered with ice, and did not
feem in any degree to have given way, but near the Ihore. The gnats
and mufkitoes which were very troublefome during our paffage along
the river, did not venture to accompany us to this colder region, ^li.t*^
■'"t""*i ^ '■ ■■«« iaa.'*.*iviW-S«lt;'Jo

The banks of the river both above and below the rapids, were on
both fides covered with the various kinds of wood common to this
country ; particularly the Weftern fide; the land being lower and confift-
ing of a rich black foil. This artificial ground is carried down by the

ftream.

1789.

June.

.(f vcbl:

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

ftream, and refts upon drift wood, fo as to be eight or ten feet deep.
The eaftern banks are more elevated, and the foil a yellow clay mixed
with gravel ; fo that the trees are neither fo large or numerous as on the
oppofite Ihore. The ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in
depth ; notwithilanding the leaf was at its full growth ; while along the
lake there was fcarcely any appearance of verdure.

- "1 ■"*"*

The Indians informed me, that, at a very fmall diftance from either
bank of the river, are very extenfive plains, frequented by large herds of
buffaloes ; while the moofe and rein-deer keep in the woods that border
on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habi-
tations in the fmall lakes and rivers, as, in the larger ilreams, the ice
carries every thing along with it, during the fpring. The mud banks
in the river are covered with wild fowl ; and we this morning killed two
fwans, ten geefe, and one beaver, without fuffering the delay of an
hour; fo that we might have foon' filled the canoe with them, if that
had been our objedl. ,fi

From the fmall river we (leered Eaft, along the infide of a long fand-
bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened by a few willows, which
ftretches on as far as the houfes erefted by Meffrs. Grant and Le Roux,
in 1785. We often ran aground, as for five fucceffive miles the depth
of the water no where exceeded three feet. There we found our people,
who had arrived early in the morning, and whom we had not feen fince
the preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our
tents, as there was every appearance that we (hould be obliged to remain
here for fome time. I then ordered the nets to be fet, as it was abfo-

lutely

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AM£kiCA.

hilcly nccefTary that the ftorts provided for our future voyagfe (hbuid
remain untouched. The fifti we now caught were carp, poiffon in-
conno, white fifh, and trout.

V.I o >.- ' ■ ,

It rained during the greateft part of the preceding night, and the Wcdnef. to.
weather did not clear up till the afternoon of this day. This circum-
flance had very much weakened the ice, and I fent two of the Indians ort
an hunting party to a. lake at the diftance of nine miles, which, they
informed me, was frequented by animals of various kinds. Our fiO-"ry
this day was not fo abundant as it had been on the preceding afternoon.

The weather was fine and clear with a ftrong wefterly wind. The Thurfdayn.
women were ehnployed in gathering berries of different forts, of which
there are a great plenty ; and I accompanied one of my people to a fmall
adjacent ifland, where we picked up forae dozens of fwan, geefe, and
duck-eggs ; we alfo killed a couple of ducks and a goofe.

In the evening the Indians returned, without having feen any of the
larger animals. A fwan and a grey crane were the only fruits of their
expedition. We caught no other fifh but a fmall quantity of pike,
which is too common to be a favourite food with the people of the
country. The ice moved a little to the eaftward. " ^^*^' ''*'\

The weather continued the fame as yefterday, and the raufquitoes Friday

began to vifit us in great numbers. The ice moved again in the fame

direftion, and I afcended an hill, but could not perceive that it was

broken in the middle of the lake. The hunters killed a goofe and three
ducks.

C The

mZA

; '

■i

1789.

JuAe.
Saturday 13.

10 > JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The Weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable till about fun^fet,
when it fettled in the north. It drove back the ice which was now very
much broken along the fliore, and covered our nets. One, of the hunters
who bad been at the Slave River the preceding evening, returned with
i . j.jfbj three beavers and fourteen geefe. He was accompanied by three
families of Indians, who left Athabafca the fame day as myfelf : they did
uot bring me any fowl ; and they pleaded in excufe, that they had tra-
velled with fo much expedition, as to prevent them from procuring fuf-
ficient provifions for themfelves. By a meridian line, I found the varia-
tion of the compafs to be about twenty degrees eaft. ,-i

Sunday 14. The wcather was clear and the wind remained in the fame quarter.
The ice was much broken, and driven to the fide of the lake, fo that we
were apprehenfive for the lofs of our nets, as they could not, at prefent,
be extricated. At fun-fet there was an appearance of a violent guil of
wind from the fouthward, as the fky became on a fudden, in that quarter,
of a very dulky blue colour, and the lightning was very frequent. But
inftead of wind there came on a very heavy rain, which promifed to
diminilh the quantity of broken ice.

Monday 15. In the moming, the bay ftill continued to be fo full of ice, that we could
not get at our nets. About noon, the wind veered to the Weflward, and
not only uncovered the nets, but cleared a paffage to the oppofite iflands.
"When we raifed the nets we found them very much (battered, and but
few fifh taken. We now ftruck our tents, and embarked at fun-fet,
when we made the travcrfe, which was about eight miles North-Eaft by
North in about two hours. At half pad eleven P. M. we htiM on a

fhiall

..IT

i?!*-,.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

fmall ifland and proceeded to gum the canoe. At this time the atmofphere
was fuBiciently clear to admit of reading or writing without the aid of
artificial light. We had not feen a ftar fince the fecond day after we left
Athabafca. About twelve o'clock, the ri ..on made its appearance above
the tops of the trees, the lower horn being in a ftate of eclipfe, which
continued for about fix minutes, in a cloudlefs iky.

1789.

June.

v;;U. i

I took foundings three times in the courfe of the traverfe, when I found
fix fathoms water, with a muddy bottom. ,,.,, -,i ^ .^,i,'„, .!

We were prevented from embarking this morning by a very (Irong Tuefday 16.
wind from the North, and the vafl quantity of floating ice. Some trout
were caught with the hook and line, but the net was not fo fuccefsful.
I had an obfervation which gave 61. 28. North latitude. ' ^n'*l Jca bi&ji

•nry

The wind becoming moderate, we embarked about one, taking a
North- Weft courfe, through iflands of ten miles, in which we took in
a confiderable quantity of water. After making leveral traverfqs, we
landed at five P. M. and having pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and
nets, were immediately fet. During the courfe of the day there v/as
occafional thunder. '^^i-jT;-. f/'imiu^/r^-.MiT

'•ji-<

(."-^•f *

'tift'if "miif

• .[:in?.^

We proceedco, and taking up our nets as we pafFed, we found no Wednef. 17
more than feventeen fifh, and were flopped within a mile by the ice.
The Indians, however, brought us back to a point where our fifhery
was very fuccefsful. They proceeded alfo on an hunting party, as well
as to difcover a paffage among the iflands ; but at three in the after-
, , - C 2 noon

■I

!»

J789.

June,

19 , JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

noon they returned without having fucccedcd in either objeft. We
were, however, in expe6lation, that, as the wind blew very llrong, it
would force a paflage. About fun-fet, th** weather became overcaft,
with thunder, lightning, and rain.

ThurfdayiS. The nets were taken up at four this morning with abundance of fi(h,
and we fleered North- Weft four miles, where the ice again prevented
our progrefs. A South-Eaft wind drove it among the iflands, in fuch a
manner as to impede our paflage, and we could perceive at fome diftance
a-head, that it was but little broken. We now fet our nets in four
' fkthom water. Two of our hunters had killed a rein-deer and its fawn.
They had met with two Indian families, and in the evening, a man be-
longing to one of them, paid us a vifit : he informed me, that the ice
had not ftirred on the fide of the illand oppofite to us. Thefe people
live entirely on filh, and were waiting to crofs the lake as foon as it
fliould be clear of ice. •'» "^nwnfrv^ imivrmis. 1

This morning our nets were unproduftive, as they yielded us no more
than fix filh, which were of a very bad kind. In the forenoon, the In-
dians proceeded to the large ifland oppdite to us, in fearch of game.
The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable : at the fame time,
we were pellered by mufquitoes, though, in a great meafure, furrounded

Friday 19.

with ice,- •' •

^T-^^Wwnt»^ a.^A

,rfh). 'n'.»a'?f;'>/fl!l iitjb »f<vrt

Saturday ao. We took up our ncts, but without any fifh. It rained very hard
during the night and this morning : ncvcrthelcfs, M. Le Roux and his
people went back to the point which we had quitted on the i8th, but

I did

• ..\*ip3^-.:

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

I did not think it prudent to move. As I was watching for a paflage
thtough the ice, I promifed to fend for thera when I could obtain it.
It rained at intervals till about five o'clock ; when we loaded our canoe,
and (leered for the large illand, Weft fix miles. When we came to the
point of it, we found a great quantity of ice ; we, however, fet our
nets, and foon caught plenty of fifh. In cur way thi'^^T we met our
hunters, but they had taken nothing. I took founding, it an hundred
yards from the ifland, when we were in twenty-one fathom water. Here
we found abundance of era iberrics and fmall fpring onions. I now dif-
patched two men for M. Le Roux, and his people.

»3

1789.

June.

:,.! <- ♦■

A Southerly wind blew through the night, and drove the ice to the Sunday 21,
Northward. The two men whom I had fent to M. Le Roux, returned
at eight this morning; they parted with him at a fmall diflance from us,
but the wind blew fo hard, that he was obliged to put to fhore. Having
a glimpfe of the fun, when it was twelve by my watch, I found the lati-
tude 61. 34. North latitude. At two in the afternoon, M. Le Roux, and
his people arrived. At five, the ice being almott all driven paft to the
Northward, we accordingly embarked, and fleered Weft fifteen miles,
through much broken ice, and on the outfide of the idands, though it
appeared to be very folid to the Nortli-Eait. I founded three times in
this diftance, and found it feventy-five, forty-four, and fixty fathom
water. We pitched our tents on one of a clufter of fmall iflands that
were within three miles of the main land, which we could not reach in
confcqucnce of* the ice.

ii'ti t

1 iio(t jii'jt*y »>!'; 4 .rytii<i 1^ .rti • I "

■i 1 . -. if ■ I ■■'♦ ■•/!,• f I '

We faw fome rein-dccr on one of the idands, and our hunters went
^U in

* ■

•1 i

I' if

m
m

"•»t

•!

1789.

June.

Monday 22.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

in purfuit of them, when they killed five large and two fraall ones, which
was eafily accorapliflied, as the animals had no (belter to which they
could run for prote6lion. They had, without doubt, crofled the ice
to this fpot, and the thaw coming on had detained them there, and
made them an eafy prey to the purfuer. This illand was accordingly
named IQe de Carrebceuf. Im ,ma

I fat up the whole of this night to obferve the fetting'and rifing of the
fun. That orb was beneath the horizon four hours twenty-two minutes,
and rofe North 20 Eaft by compafs. It, however, froze fo hard, that
during the fun's difappearance the water was covered with ice half a
quarter of an inch thick. ^^^^^i^: diimuh ^iu i-

We embarked at half pad three in the morning, and rounding the out-
fide of the iflands, (leered North-Wed thirteen miles along the ice, edging
in for the main land, the wind Weft, then Well two miles ; but it blew fo
hard as to oblige us to land on an idand at half pad nine, from wlMliice
we could juft diftinguiOi land to the South-Ead, at the didance of about
twelve leagues ; though we could not determine, whether it was a con-
tinuation of the idands, or the diores of the lake.* 1 took an obferva-
tion at noon, which gave me 61. 53. North, the variation of the compafs
being, at the fame time, about two points. M. Le Roux's people having
provided two bags of pemicani to be left in the idand againd their re-
turn ; it was called IJe a la Cache, , ^^jj ^^ ^.^|j^, ^^^^^ „|^,,^, .^^^

• Somftitnes thf lniiH looim, fo thut there may be a great deception is to the didance : and I think
\\w wa.1 thr calc at prelcnt.

The

t Fifh dried in the liin, and afterwardi pounded hx (hfl cortWnhnce of cartiifii*'

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

The wind being moderated, we proceeded again at half pad two in
the afternoon, and fleering Weft by North among the iflands, made a
courfe of eighteen miles. We encamped at eight o'clock on a fmall
ifland, and fince eight in the morning had not pafled any ice. Though
the weather was far from being warm, we were tormented, and our reft
interrupted, by the hoft of mufquitoes that accompanied us.

1789.

June,

,iA

^^^:'-i>Cs^\-'f%itMm

\ jUiii n*>d ion h

?;■'

imo A bbii Tit ,t

•Uiii 'jiiiu i

it;(

f»» I ' " ,1 ' "'1

CHAP.

I 'if t

V r

.<>^:

J -89.

JillC.

luclday ij.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

CHAPTER IL

.1., ai

Jii ;v/ 9v/ .anew !j

Landed ai fomt lodges of Red- Knife Indians: procure one of them to afjiji

in navigating tlie bays. Conference with the Indians. Take leave of

M. Le Roux, and continue the voyage. Different appearances of the land;

its vegetable produce. Vifit an ifland where the wood hmi been felled.

Further defcription of the Coafl. Plenty of rein and moofe-deer, and

white partridges. Enter a very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very

blowing weather. Continue to coafl the bay. Arrive at the mouth of

a river. Great numbers of ffh and wild-fowl. Defcription of the land

on either fide. Curious appearance of woods that had been burned.

Came in fight of the Horn Mountain. Continue to kill geefe and f wans ,

&c. Violentflorm. t

# #

X OWARDS morning, the Indians who had not been able to keep up
with us the preceding day, now joined us, and brought two fwans and a
goofe. At half pad three we re-embarked, and fleering Wed by North a
mile and an hr^f, with a Northerly wind, we came to the foot of a traverfe
acrofs a deep bay. Wed five miles, which receives a confiderable river at
the bottom of it; the didance about twelve miles. The North-Wed
fide of the bay was covered with many fmall iflands that were furrounded
with ice; but the wind driving it a little off the land, we had a clear
pafTage on the infide of them. We deered South- Wed nine miles under

. , ^ail,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT O? AMERICA.

»7

fail, then North-Weft nearly, through the iflands, forming a courfe of
fixteen miles. We landed on the main land at half paft two in the after-
noon at three lodges of Red- Knife Indians, fo called from their copper
knives. They informed us, that there were many more lodges of their
friends at no great diftance ; and one of the Indians fet oft" to fetch
them : they alfo faid, that we ftiould fee no more of them at prefent ; as
the Slave and Beaver Indians, as well as others of the tribe, would not
be here till the time that the fwans caft their feathers. In the afternoon

1789.

June.

It ramed a torrent.

V*.|;

.yt-i, i*v,! ./ • .? a:>\ f

M. Le Roux chafed of thefe Indians upwards of eight packs of Wednef. 14.
good beaver and marten fl^ins ; and there were not above twelve o^
them qualified to kill beaver. The Englifti chief got upwards of an
hundred fkins on the fcore of debts due to him, of which he had many
outllanding in this country. Forty of them he gave on account of debts
due by him (ince the winters of 1786 and 1787, at tlie Slave Lake; the
reft he exchanged for rum and other neceftary articles ; and I added a
fmall quantity of that liquor as an encouraging prefent to him and his
young men. I had fcveral confultations with thefe Copper Indian
people, but could obtain no information that was material to our expe-
dition ; nor were they acquainted with any part of the river, which was
the objc6l of my relcarch, but the mouth of it. In order to fiive as much
time as poffible in circumnavigating the bays, I engaged one of the In-
dians to condud us ; and I accordingly equipped him with various
articles of clothing, &c. I alfo purchaleil a large new cauoCj that jie
might embark with the two young Indians in my fcrvice. ',iu,u V';,nu

, This day, at noon, I took an obfervation, wliich gave me 62. 2.\. North

D latitude;

SJt

111

riwl
KMm

1789.

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

latitude ; the variation of the compafe being about twenty-fix or twenty-
feven degrees to the Eaft.

,.<v

In the afternoon I affembled the Indians, in order to inform them that
I fhould take my departure on the following day ; but that people would
remain on the fpot till their countrymen, whom they had mentioned,
fhould arrive ; and that, if they brought a fufficient quantity of fkins to
make it anfwer, the Frenchmen would return for more goods, with a
view to winter here, and build a fort,* which would be continued as long
as they fhould be found to deferve it. They affured me, that it would be
a great encouragement to them to have a fettlement of ours in their
country; and that they fhould exert themfelvcs to the utmofl to kill
beaver, as they would then be certain of getting an adequate value for
them. Hitherto, they laid, the Chepewyans always pillaged them ; or,
at mofl, gave little or nothing for the fruits of their labour, which had
greatly difcouraged them ; and that, in confequence of this treatment,
they had no motive to purfue the beaver, but to obtain a fufficient
quantity of food and raiment. *' '»

I now wrote to Meffrs. Macleod and Mackenzie, and addrefled my
papers to the former, at Athabafca.

Tiuirfday 25. Wc left this placc at three this morning, our canoe being deeply laden,
as we had embarke<^. fome packages that had come in the canoes of
M. Le Roux. We were faluted on our departure with fome voUies of
fmall arms, which we returned, and fleered South by Well flraight

Fort, h the name given to any edabliriiinent in tlus couutry.

)>l.U-

acrofs

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

acrofs the bay, which is here no more than two miles and a half broad,
but, from the accounts or the natives, it is fifteen leagues in depth,
with a much greater breadth in feveral parts, and full of iflands. I
founded in the courfe of the traverfe and found fix fathoms with a
fandy bottom. Here, the land has a very different appearance from
that on which we hrfve been fince we entered the lake. Till we
arrived here there was one continued view of high hills and iflands
of folid rock, whofe furface was occafionally enlivened with mofs,
fhrubs, and a few fcattered trees, of a very dinted growth from an in-
fufficiency of foil to nourish them. But, notwithftanding their barren
appearance, almofl: every part of them produces berries of various kinds,
fuch as cranberries, juniper-berries, rafpberries, partridge berries,
goofeberries, and the pathagomenan, which is fomething like a rafp-
berry ; it grows on a I'mall fialk about a foot and a half high, in wet,
mofly fpots. Thefe fruits are in great abundance, though they are not
to be found in the fame places, but in fituations and afpe£ls fuited to
their peculiar natures. .-^ ■■'%it''',v^ ^■■'■'' ■'''■^'^' :. ;. i

»9

1789.

June.

•If

The land which borders the lake in this part is loofe and fandy, but
is well covered with wood, compofed of trees of a larger growth : it
gradually rifes from the fhore, and at fomc diftance forms a ridge of
high land running along the coaft, thick with wood and a rocky fummit
rifing above it. . -'^^ r- ^- -:'v_vyjj;. ;.•.>„ ,',.v;'j.i,c ;.-.;'>.* /•/ ,'

We fl:eered South-Souih-Eaft nine miles, when we were very
much interrupted by drifting ice, and with fome difficulty reached
an ifland, where we landed at feven. I immediately proceeded to

D 2 the

i"'

JOUkNAL OF A VOYAGfi THflOUGH THE

the furtlier part of it, in order to difcdver if there was any probabilitjr
of our being able to get from thence in tlie courfe of the day. It is
about five thiles in circumference, and I was very much furprized to
find that the greater part of the wood With which it was formerly co-
vered; had been cut down within twelve or fifteen yearsj and that the
remaining {lumps were become ahogether rotteti. On making inquiry
concerning the caufe of this extraordinary circumftance, the Englifh
chief informed me, that feveral winters ago, many of the Slave Indians
inhabited the iflands that were fcattered over the bay, as the furrounding
waters abound with f ^ throughout the year, but that they had been
driven away by the Kniflenaux, who continually made war upon them.
If an eftablifliment is to be made in this country, it muft be in the neigh-
bourhood of this place on account of the wood and the filhery.

Friday 26.

At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the wind had driven the
greateft part of the ice paft the ifland, though we flill had to encounter
fome broken pieces of it, which threatened to damage our canoe. We
fleered South-Eaft from point to point acrofs five bays, twenty-one miles.
We took foundings feveral times, and found from fix to ten fathom
water. I obferved that the country gradually defcended inland, and
was flill better covered with wood than in the higher parts. Wherever
we approached the land, we perceived deferted lodges. The hunters
killed two fwans and a beaver ; and at length we landed at eight o'clock
in the evening, when we unloaded and gummed our canoe.

We continued our route at five o'clock, fleering South-Eafl for ten
miles acrofs two deep bays : then South-South-Ealt, with illands in fight

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA,

to the Eaftward. We then traverfed artothcr bay in a courfe of three
miles, then South one mile to a point which we named th^ Detour, and
South-South- Well four miles and an half, when there was an heavy
fwell off the lake. Here I took an oblervation, when we were in
61. 40. North latitude. We then proceeded South- Weft four miles, and
Weft-South-Weft among iilands : on one of which our Indians killed
two rein-deer, but we loft three hours aft wind in going for them : this
courfe was nine miles. About feven in the evening we were obliged to
land for the night, as the wind became too ftrong from the South-Eaft.
We thought we could obferve land in this dire6tion when the wind was
coming on from fome diftance. On the other fide of the Detour, the
land is low, and the ftiore is flat and dangerous, there being no fafe
place to land in bad weather, except in the iflands which we had juft
pafled. There feemed to be plenty of moofe and rein-deer in this
country, as we faw their tracks wherever we landed. There were al fo
great numbers of white partridges, which are at this fealbn of a grey
colour, like that of the moor-fowl. There was fome floating ice in the
lake, and the Indians killed a couple of fwans. •■'' f^v -Juj i .>

i\i

J789.

June.

* At three this morning we were in the canoe, aftex having pafled a very SatuiJay 27.
reftlefs night from the perfecution of the mufquitoes. The weather was
line and calm, and our courfe Weft-South-Weft nine miles, when we
came to the foot of a traverfe, the oppofite point in light bearing South-
Weft, dlQance twelve miles. The bay is at leaft eight miles deep, and this
courfe two miles more, in all ten miles. It now became very foggy, and as
the bays were fo numerous, we landed for two hours, when the weather
cleared up ; and we took the advantage of ftcering South thirteen miles,
. . and

"UJ

1789.

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

and pafled feveral fmall bays, when we came to the point of a very deep
one, whofe extremity was not difcernible ; the land bearing South from
us, at the diftance of about ten miles. Our guide not having been here
for eight winters, was at a lofs what courfe to take, though as well as he
could recolleft, this bay appeared to be the entrance of the river. Ac-
cordingly, we fleered down it, about Weft-South- Weft, till we were in-
volved in a field of broken ice. We ftill could not difcover the bottom of
the bay, and a fog coming on, made it very difficult for us to get to an ifland
to the South-Weft, and it was nearly dark when we effe£led a landing.

Sunday 28. At a quarter paft three we were again on the water, and as we could
perceive no current fetting into this bay, we made the beft of our way
to the point that bore South from us yefterday afternoon. We con-
tinued our courfe South three miles more, South by Weft feven miles.
Weft fifteen miles, when by obfervation we were in 6i degrees
North latitude; we then proceeded Weft- North- Weft two miles. Here
we came to the foot of a traverfe, the oppofite land bearing South- Weft,

' diftance fourteen miles, when we fteered into a deep bay, about a

Wefterly courfe; and though we had no land a head in fight, we in-
dulged the hope of finding o paflage, which, according to the Indian,
would condufl u*! to the entrance of the river.

Having a ftrong wind aft, we loft fight of the Indians, nor could we
put on fliore to wait for them, without rifldng material damage to
the canoe, till we ran to the bottom of the bay, and were forced
among the rufties ; when we difcovered that there was no paftage there.
In about two or three hours they joined us, but would not approach our

fire,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

fire, as there was no good ground for an encampment: they emptied ^1^9-
their canoe of the water which it had taken in, and continued their <— -^- — ;
route, but did no^ encamp till fun-fet. The EngliQi chief was very much
irritated againft the Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder
him, for having undertaken to guide us in a courfe of which he was
ignorant; nor had we any reafon to be fatisfied with him, though he
Itill continued to encourage us, by declaring that he recollefted having
pafled from the river, through the woods, to the pl.".ce where he had
landed. In the blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to make ufe
of our large kettle, to keep our canoe from filling, although we did not
carry above three feet fail. The Indians very narrowly efcaped.

'■] We embarked at four this evening, and fleered along the South- Monday ag.
Welt fide of the bay. At half paft five we reached the extremity of the
point, which we doubled, and found it to be the branch or paffage that
was the objeft of our fearch, and occafioned by a very long ifland, which
feparates it from the main channel of the river. It is about half a mile
acrofs, and not more than fix feet in depth; the water appeared to
abound in fi(h, and was covered with fowl, fuch as fwans, geefej and
feveral kinds of ducks, particularly black ducks, that were very

numerouo, but we could not get within gun fhot of them. ,.

», • ■. ■ - •' ■ . .

The current, though not very ftrong, fet us South-Weft by Weft,
and we followed this courfe fourteen miles, till we pafled the point of
the long ifland, where the Slave Lake dif charges itfelf, and is ten miles
in breadth. There is not more than from five to two fathom water,
lb that when the lake is low, it may be prefumcd the greateft part of

^ :«'j

i'iiiuk:.--

lU Vff'ii

this

m f

1789.

June.

m JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

this channel muft be dry. The river now turns to the weftward,
becoming gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it is not more
than half a mile wide; the current, however, is then much Itronger, and
the foundings were three fathom and a half. The land on the North
fhore from the lake is low, and covered with trees ; that to the South
is much higher, and has alfo an abundance of wood. The current is very
ftrong, and the banks are of an equal height on both fides, confifting
of a yellow clay, mixed with fmall Hones; they are covered with large
quantities of burned wood, lying on the ground, and young poplar trees,
that have fprung up fince the fire that deflroyed the larger wood. It is
a very curious and extraordinary circumftance, that land covered with
fpruce pine, and white birch, when laid wafte by fire, fhould fubfe-
quently produce nothing but poplars, where none of that fpecies of tree
were previoully to be found.

A fliff breeze from the Eaftward drove us on at a great rate under
fail, in the fame courle, though obliged to wind among illands. We
kept the North channel for about ten miles, whofe current is much
ftronger than that of the South; fo that the latter is conlequently
the better road to come up. Here the river widened, and the wind
dying away, we had recourfe to our paddles. We kept our courie
to the North- Weft, on the North fide of the river, which is here
much wider, and aflumes the form of a Imall lake ; we could not,
however, difcover an opening in any direftion, fo that we were at a
lofs what courle to take, as our Red-Knife Indian had never ex-
plored beyond our prefent fituation. He at the fame time informed
us that a river falls in from the North, which takes its rife in the Horn
Mountain, now in fight, which is the country of the Beaver Indians ;

and

«5

1789.

Ju..e.

NQRTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

and that he and his relations frequently r^ on that river. He alfo
added," that there arc very extenfive plain. both fides of it, which
abound in binffaloes and inoofe deer, iml srff . ir ^4 h^ff^rtoirh ^ms-f

' -• fn f\ -f .- Lf'_ I-I.,, f--^...1 lk.t»«« AOfl^MJi j^ «^.'. M ^ !»«>* . f^9 (%£k.rK4--«'t^-~^ri<-.-.W If'^tA.ISif*

■I I ^. »T T ■■* <; . r . -( . '.-..-;*» i ; - ..'■.""■ T . . ,

By keeping this courfe, we got into (hallows, fo that we were
forced to lUer to the left, till we recovered deep water, which we
followed, till the channel of the river opened on us to the fouthward.
we now made for the (hore, and encamped foon after funfet. Our
courfe ought to have been Weft fifteen miles, fince we took to the
paddle, the Horn Mountains bearing from us North-Weft, and running
North-North-Eaft and South-South- Weft. Our foundings, which were
frequent during the courfe of the day, were from three to fix fathoms
water. The hunters killed two geefe and a fwan : it appeared, indeed,
that great numbers of fowls breed in the iflands which we had paffed.

At four this morning we got under way, the weather being fine and Tuefday 30.
calm. Our courfe was South-Weft by South thirty-fix miles. On the
South fide of the river is a ridge of low mountains, running Eaft and
Weft by compafs. The Indians picked up a white goofe, which
appeared to have been lately fliot with an arrow, and was quite frefti.
We proceeded South-Weft by South fix miles, and then came to a bay
on our left, which is full of fmall iflands, and appeared to be the entrance
of a river from the South. Here the ridge of mountains terminates.
This courfe was fifteen miles.

.. '■■'-. ' ; , , .1. - '

*\' ' : ' -

MAliJ ^ ' . ^: <..:>., . •'-

At fix in the afternoon there was an appearance of bad weather; we

landed, therefore, for the night : but before we could pitch our tents, a

M violent

■■*■..,

.'■ H

■'\^

(IP

1789.

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

violent tempeft came on, with thunder, lightning, and rain, which, how-
ever, foon ceafed, but not before we had fufFered the inconvenience of
being drenched by it. The Indians were very much fatigued, having
been employed in running after wild fowl, which had lately call their
feathers ; they, however, caught five fwans, and the fame number of
geefe. I founded fcveral times in the courfe of the day, and found from
four to fix fathoms water <p^ "^mm Mm.iitvj sni in) , *

.ii^fiulTiflij oo^ ■ iorUdfft vol obem v.on w

.»Hf tilj.'.. an'idQ'rkd a* *d»^L ■'>

jt;nfM«iii * ' '^-ilri&K «»! m»/rl <',nJt>J»<i«oJ«l»r»'/oM iiioH .»«J.i?Ji>i?*iCj
D-Mwtsirf .' ,.,. ;lNAr>d^fw<) .^fibW>iffimP ;ft:!of^ hoc .Ufi3-tiMoH-MjioH

,b*»^!3ni ,; :^ tYifi- ^i : tiAifl « bisi^ ohrs^^-bw^ Mfcilt.irlalfttwi 9il«lk .t^fiv/
r JrJfefiq bwi ftv-f rfi«i(lvf Mbf»<llVi aHi m i>ii»tii «lv/ >Mo n^dmun Jfiji^ Ud\

iir)iit'^ 4'.'^f'<>8 oi{«w c cj« h'^rf'>iq inn^K»| adT .-slxjfijpia) vnl 11^7/

■ ' ' ' I

CHAP.

i' , . •'] '

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

CHAPTER III.

Continue our cour/e. The river narrows. Loft the lead, Pajfed a fmall
river. Violent rain. Land on a fmall ijland, ExpeR to arrive at the
rapids. Conceal two bags qfpemican in an ijland, A view of mountains.
Fafs feveral encampments of the natives. Arrive among the ijlands.
Afcend an high hill. Violence of the current. Icefeen along the banks
of the river. Land at a village of the natives. Their conduB and
appearance, Their fabulous flories. The Englijh Chief and Indians
difcontented. Obtain a new guide. Singular cuftoms of the natives.
An account of their dances, Defcription of their perfons, drefs, orna-
ments, buildings, army for war and hunting, canoes, &c. Pajfed on
among ijlands. Encamped beneath an hill, and prevented from afcending
by the mufpiitoes. Landed at an encampment. ConduSt of the inha-
bitants. They abound in fabulous accounts of dangers. Land at other
encampments. Procure plenty of hares and partridges. Our guide
anxious to return. Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare
Indians, &c. Exchange our guide. State of the weather.

J r^|-^» r*»W«>

.14

■1 I j.fcil

xjlT half pad four in the morning we continued our voyage, and in
a (hort time found the river narrowed to about half a mile. Our
courfe was Wcfterly among iflands, with a (Irong current. ThougJi
the land is high on both fides, the banks arc not perpendicular. This

E 2 courfe

178.).

VVednel.

1' ■!

,"1 111

li u

1789.

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

courfe was twenty-one miles ; and on founding we found nine fathoms
water. We then proceeded Weft-North-Weft nine miles, and pafled a
river upon the South-Eaft fide; we founded, and found twelve fathoms;
and then we went North- Weft by Weft three miles. Here I loft my
lead) which had faftened at the bottom, with part of the line, the current
running fo ftrong that we could not clear it with eight paddles, and the
ftrength of the line, which was equal to four paddles. Continued North
by Weft five miles, and faw an high mountain, bearing South from us ;
we then proceeded North- Weft by North four miles. We now pafled a
fmall river on the North fide, then doubled a point to Weft-South-
Weft. At one o'clock there came on lightning and thunder, with wind
and rain, which ce^ed in about half an hour, and left us almoft de-
luged with wet, as we did not land. There were great quantities of
ice alonff the banks of the river. , - ,

We landed upon a fmall Hiand, where 'liefe were the poles of four
lodges ftanding, which vve concluded to have belonged to the Knifti-
neaux, on their war excurfions, fix or fcven years ago. This courfe was
fifteen miles Weft, to where the river of the Mountain falls in from
the Southward. It appears to be a very large river, whole mouth is
half a mile broad. About fix miles further a fmall river flows in the
fame direftion; and our whole courfe was twenty-four miles. We
landed oppofife to an iiland, the mountains to the Southward being in
fight, As our canoe was deeply ladt^rt, dhd bdlhg affb in daily ex-
peftation of coming to the rapids of fall, which we htld been thu^ht to
confidcr with npprehenfion, wc concealed two bags of pettiican in the
oppolitc ifland, in the hope Ihat they would be of future fervice to us.

The

K ^'1

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT O^ AtoRICAi

Th6 Indians were of a different opinion, as th^y ehtertdined no expec-
i&iioh of returning that feafori, When thfe hidden provifidns would be
f^oilied. Near us were tWb Indian i^ncampments of the laft year. By
the manner in which thefb people cut thfiir wood, it appears that they
have no ifon tools. The current was very flrohg during the whole of
this day's voyage ; and in the article of proVifionS two fWans were all
that the hunters were able to procure.

1789.
July.

,rU»-i. r* .

.nth ,;g-

i'SHl

' The morning was very foggy; but at half pad five we embarked; it Thurfday 2.
cleared up, however, at fevcn, when we difcovered ihat the water, from
being very limpid and clear, was become dark and muddy. This alter-
ation mull have proceeded from the influx of fome river to the South-
ward, but where thefc dreams firll blended their waters the fog had
prevented us from obferving. At nine we pierceivied a very high moun-
tain a-head, which appeared, on our nearer approach, to be rather a
duller of mountains, firetchihg aS far as our view could reach to the
Southward, and whofe tops were loll in thd clouds. At noon there was
Hghtning, thunder, and rain, and at one, we came abreall of the moun-
tains : their fummits appeared to be barren and rocky, but their declivi-
ties W6rfe toVdred with wood : they appeared alfo to be fprinkled with
white (tones, which glillened in the fun, and were called by the Indians
mafietoe a/iniah, or fpirit ftones. I fufpe6led that they were Talc, though
they poHelFed a more brilliant whitenefs : on our return, however, thefc
appearances were dillblved, as they were nothing more than patches of

Our courfe had been Weft-South -Weft thirty miles, and we pro-
ceeded

■t

■^m

,.vi'

1789.

.■ -■ 'At'A"

Friday 3.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

ceeded with great caution, as we continually expefted to approach fome
great rapid or fall. This was fuch a prevalent idea, that all of us were
occafionally perfuaded that we heard thofe founds which betokened a fall
of water. Our courfe changed to Weft by North, along the mountains,
twelve miles, North by Weft twenty-one miles, and at eight o'clock in the
evening we went on ftiore for the night on the North fide of the river.
We faw feveral encampments of the natives, fome of which had been
erefted in the prefent I'pring, and others at fome former period. The
hunters killed only one fwan and a beaver : the latter was the firft of
its kind which we had feen in this river. The Indians complained of the
perfeverance with which we puftied forward, and that they were not
accuftomed to fuch fevere fatigue as it occafioned. ^^^ ^^^.^ lUfm (itMl«

The rain was continual through the night, and did not lubiide till
feven this morning, when w^e embarked and fteered North-North- Weft for
twelve miles, the river being enclofed by high mountains on either fide.
We had a ftrong head-wind, and the rain was fo violent as to compel
us to land at ten o'clock. According to my reckoning, fince my laft
obfcrvation, we had run two hundred and feventeen miles Weft, and
forty-four miles North. At a quarter pail two the rain fubfided, and
wc got again under way, our former courfe continuing for five miles.
Here a river fell in from the North, and in a ftiort time the current be-
came ftrong and rapid, running with great rapidity among rocky iilands,
which were the Brit that wc had feen in this river, and indicated our
near approach to rapids and falls. Our prefent courfe was North-
Weft by North ten miles. North- Weft three miles, Wefl-North-Weft
twelve miles, and North- Weft three miles, wlien wc encamped at eight

•

NORtH-WESTCONTINENT OF AMERICA. -

in the evening, at the foot of an high hill, on the north {hore, which in n^-

. . . . J"*y*

feme parts •■ofe perpendicular from the river. I immediately afcended it* <——>'—■

accompanied by two men and fome Indians, and in about an hour and
an half, with very hard walking, we gained the fummit, wh "n I was very
much furprized to find it crowned by an encampment. The Indians in-
formed me, that it is the cuftom of the people who have no arms to
choofe the^j elevated fpots for the places of their refidence, as they can
render them inaccelTible to their enemies, particularly the Knllleneaux,
of whom they are in continual dread. The profpeft from this height
was not fo extenfive as we expefted, as it was terminated by a circular
range of hills, of the fame elevation as that on which we flood. The in-
tervals between the liills were covered with fmall lakes, which were inha-
bited by great numbers of fwans. We faw no trees but the pine and the
birch, which were fmall in f.ze and few in number, yjj^i* '■inNiui t;uoi

We were obliged to fhorten our flay here, from the fwarms of muf-
quitoes which attacked us on all fides, and were, indeed, the only in-
habitants of the place. We faw feveral encampments of the natives in
the courfc of the day, but none of them were of this year's cftablifli-
ment. Since four in the afternoon the current had been fo ftrong that it
was, at length, in an a£lual ebullition, and produced an hiffing noife like
a kettle of water in a moderate (late of boiling. The weather was now
become extremely cold, which was the more fenfibly felt, as it had been
very fultry (ome time before and fince we had been in the river.

^ At five in the morning the wind and weather having undergone no Saturday.
alteration from yellcrday, we proceeded North- Weil by Wed twenty-two

miles,

3»

■; ■■ lit f

I ■

■ ■' .|i

i '

H i I

15 li I

111

I I
.. 1

! ,1

.789.

^ JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

miles, North-Weft fix miles, North-Weft by North four miles, and Weft
North- Weft five miles : we then pafled the mouth of a fmall river from
the North, and after doubling a point, South-Weft one mile, we pafTed
the influx of another river from the South. We then continued our
courfe North-North- Weft, with a mountain a-head, fifteen miles, when
the opening of two rivers appeared oppofite to each other : we then pro-
ceeded Weft four miles, and North- Weft thirteen miles. At ejght in the
evening, we encamped on an ifland. The current was as ftrong througli
.the whole of this day as it had been the preceding afternoon ; neverthelefs,
a quantity of ice appeared along the banks of the river. The hunters
killed a beaver and a goofe, the former of which funk before they could
get to him : beavers, otters, bears, &c. if {hot dead at once, remain like
a bladder, but if there remains enough of life for them to ftruggle, they
foon fill with water and go to the bottom.

Sunday 5. Thc fun fct laft night at fifty-three minutes paft nine, by njy watch,
and rofe at feven minutes before two this morning : we embarked fooa
after, fteering North-North- Weft, through iflands for five miles, and Weft
four miles. The river then cncreafed in breadth, and the current began to
ilackcn in a fmall degree; after the continuation of our courfe, we perceiv-
ed a ridge of high mountains before us, covered with fnow, Weft-Soulh-
Weft ten miles, and at three-quarters paft feven o'clock, we faw fevcral
fmokes on the North ftjore, which wc made everv exertion to approach.
As we drew nearer, we difcovcred the natives running about in great ap-
parent confufion; fome were making to the woods, and others hurryin;;
;. >v8 *o their canoes. Our hunters landed before us, and flddrelfed the lew
that had not elcapcd, in the Cl»pewyan language, which, To great was

,i:;,'i'm

their

M5lttH-\VEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

their confufion and terror, they did not appear to underftand. But
when they perceived that it was impoflible to avoid us, as we were all
landed, they made us figns to keep at a diftance, with which we com-
plied, and not only unloaded our canoe, but pitched our tents, be-
fore we made any attempt to approach them. During this interval, the
Englifh chief and his young nen were employed in reconciling them
to our arrival : and when they had recovered from their alarm,
of hoftilc intention, it appeared that fome of them perfeftly com-
prehended the language of our Indians ; fo that they were at length
perfuaded, though not without evident figns of relu61ance and appre-
henfion, to come to us. Their reception, however, foon diflipated their
fears, and they hafteneu to call their fugitive companions from their
hiding places. .. v — — ,.^ . ,^^- 1 ,.,.._ :^..

There were five families, confifting of twentv-five or thirty perfons,
and of two different tribes, the Slave and Dog rib Indians. We made
them fmoke, though it was evident they did not know the ufe of tobacco ;
we likewife fupplied them with grog; but I am difpofed to think, that
they accepted our civilities rather from fear than inclination. We ac-
ijuired a more effeftual influence over them by the dillribution of knives,
beads, awls, rings, gartering, fite-lleels, flints, and hatchets ; fo that they
became more familiar even than we expefted, for we could not keep
them out of our tents : though I did not obferve that they attempted to
purloin any thing. ^^ '"•« i" Vsivb %t! r>m ,i>i«l '>'

jT-)";'

;; ^r/5j7mi:K) r.a r

•iifi

i/3i*i

1789.

The information which they gave refpeding the river, had fo much
of the fabulous, that I fhall not detail it : it will be fuflicient juft

-> ly-

^ If

•V,

. »i

1789.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

to mention their attempts to perfuade us, that ir, would require feveral
winters to get to the fea, and that old age would come upon us before
the period of our return : we were alfo to encounter monllers of fuch
horrid fhapes and deftruftive powers as could only exift in their wild
imaginations. They added, befides, that there were two impafTable falls
in the river, the firft of which was about thirty days march from us.

Though I placed no faith in thefe ftrange relations, they had a very
different effeft upon our Indians, who were already tired of the voyage.
It was their opinion and anxious wi(h, that we fhould not hefitate to
return. They faid that, according to the information which they had
received, there were very few animals in the country beyond us, and
that as we proceeded, the fcarcity would increafe, and we ftiould abfo-
lutely perilh from hunger, if no other accident befel us. It was with no
finall trouble that they were convinced of the folly of thefe reafonings ;
and, by my defire, they induced one of thofe Indians to accompany
us, in confi deration of a fmall kettle, an axe, a knife, and fome other
articles.

Though it was now three o'clock in the afternoon, the canoe was
ordered to be reloaded, and as we were ready to embark our new
recruit was defired to prepare himfelf for his departure, which he would
have declined; but as none of his friends would take his place, we may
be faid, after the delay of an hour, to have compelled him to embark.
Previous to his departure a ceremony took place, of which I could
not learn the meaning: he cut off a lock of his hair, and having
divided it into three parts, he failened one of them to the hair on the
=. i upper

North-west CONTINENT OF AMERICA,

upper part of his wife's head, blowing on it three times with the utmoflr
violence in his power, and uttering certain words. The other two he

faflened with the fame formalities, on the heads of his two children.

^ i

During our (hort (lay with thefe people, they amufed us with dancing,
which they accompanied with their voices ; but neither their fong or
their dance poifeffed much variety. The men and women formed a pro-
mifcuous ring. The former have a bone dagger or piece of ftick be-
tween the fingers of the right hand, which they keep extended above the
head, in continual motion : the left they feldom raife fo high, but work
it backwards and forwards in an horizontal direftion ; while they leap
about and throw themfelves into vaiious antic poftures, to the meafure of
their mufic, always bringing their heels clofe to each other at every
paufe. The men occafionally howl in imitation of fome animal, and he
who continues* this violent exercife foi the longeft period, appears to
be confidered as the beft performer. The women fuffer their arms to
hang as without the power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, ill-
made pc?ole, particularly about the legs, which are very clumfy and co-
vered with fcabs. The latter circumftance proceeds probably from their
habitually roatting them before the fire. Many of them appeared to be
in a very unhealthy Itate, which is owing, as I imagine, to their natural
(ilthinefs. They are of a moderate ftature, and as far as could be difco-
vered, through the coat of dirt and greafc that covers them, are of a
fairer complexion than the generality of Indians who are the natives of
warmer climates.

...ii

J,, .a ■.

I.il .Itiv

1/T t\j:-tt ,

■titn-.t

Some of them have their hair of a great length; while others fuffer
a long trefs to fall behind, and the reft is cut fo fliort as to expofe

F 2 their

1789.
July.

!L;^

\^:

i--"^i

:il

1789.

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

their ears, but no other attention whatever is paid to it. The beards of
fome of the old men were long, and the rell had them pulled out by
the roots, fo that not an hair could be feen on their chins. The men
have two double lines, either black or blue, tattooed upon each cheek,
from the ear to the nofe. The griftle of the latter is perforated fo as
to admit a goofe-quill or a fmall piece of wood to be paffed through the
orifice. Their clothing is made of the dreffed fkins of the rein or moofe-
deer, though more commonly of the former. Thefe they prepare in the
hair for winter, and make fhirts of both, which reach to the middle
of their thighs. Some of them are decorated with an embroidery of
very neat workmanfhip with porcupine quills and the hair of the moofe,
coloured red, black, yellow, and white. Their upper garments are fuf-
f.ciently large to cover the whole body, wi*h a fringe round the bottom,
and are ufed both fleeping and awake. Their leggins come half way up
the thigh, and are fcwed to their (hoes : they are embroidered round the
ancle, and upon every feam. The drefs of the women is the fame as
that of the men. The former have no covering on their private parts,
except a taffel of leather which dangles from a fmall cord, as it appears,
to keep off the flies, which would otberwife be very troublefome.
"Whether circumcifion be praflifed among them, I cannot pretend to
lay, but the appearance of it was general among thofe whom I faw.

Their ornaments confift of gorgets, bracelets for the arms and wrifts,
made of wood, horn, or bone, belts, garters, and a kind of band to go
round the head, compofed of drips of leather of one inch and an half
broad, embroidered with porcupine quills, and fluck round with the
claws of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are fufpended a few fliort

Uiongs of the fkin of an animal that ref^mbles the ermine, in the form

■■■ -^■' ■-, . ' • ■

■1 J

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA:

of a taflel. Their cinftures and garters are formed of porcupine (jmUIs
woven with finews, in a ftyle of peculiar fldll and neatnefs : they hjive
others of different materials, and more ordinary workmanfliip ; and lo
both they attach a long fringe of firings of leather, worked round with
hair of various colours. Their mittens are alfo fufpended from the
neck in a pofition convenient for the reception of the hands. „ ,._

Ji»ilV<^-«^Ji

yi* 7it i!.

::)«;*v,

Their lodges are of a very fimple ftruflure : a few poles fupported by
a for'<^. and forming a femicirele at the bottom, with fome branches or a
piece of bark as a covering, conftituf.es the whole of their native architec-
ture. They build two of thefe huts facing each other, and make the
fire between them. The furniture harmonifes with the buildings : they
have a few diflies of wood, bark, of horn ; the vefTels in which they
cook their viftuals, are in the ftiape of a gourd, narrow at the top and:
vide at the bottoni, and of watape*, fabricated in fuch a manner as to
hold water, which is made to boil by putting a fucceffion of red-hot Hones
into it. Thefe veflels contain from two to fix gallons. They have a num*
ber of fmall leather bags to hold their embroidered work, lines, and nets«
They always keep a large quantity of the fibres of willow bark, which they^
work into thread on their thighs.. Their nets are from three to forty
fathoms in length, and from thirteen to thirty-fix meflies in depth. The
fhort deep ones they fet in the eddy current of rivers, and the long ones
in the lakes. They likewife make lines of the finews of the rein-deer,
and manufa6lure their hooks from wood, horn, or bone. Their arms
and weapons for hunting, are bows and arrows, fpears, daggers, and poga-

• Watape is the name given to the clivicU 1 root.s of the fpruce-fir, which the natives weave into a
dfRicc of compartntls that renders it capable of containing a fli id. The different parts of the bark'
canoes are allia Icwcd together with this kind of filament.

1739.
— V—

magans

il I «!.

I'i ,

1789.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

raaganS). or clubs. The bows are about five or fix feet in length, and
the firings are of finews or raw (kins. The arrows are two feet and
an half long, including the barb, which is varioufly formed of bone,
horn, flint, iron, or copper, and are winged with three feathers. The
pole of the fpears is about fix feet in length, and pointed with a barbed
bone of ten inches. With this weapon they flrike the rein-deer in the
water. The daggers are flat and (harp-pointed, about twelve inches
long, and made of horn or bone. The pogamagon is made of the horn
of the rein-deer, the branches being all cut off, except that which forms the
extremity. This inftrument is about two feet in length, and is employ-
ed to difpatch their enemies in battle, and fuch animals as they catch in
fnares placed for that purpofe. Thele are about three fathom long, and
are made of the green (kin of the rein or moofe-deer, vut in fuch fmall
flrips, that it requires from ten to thirty ftrands to make this cord,
which is not thicker than a cod-line; and ftrong enough to refift'
any animal that can be entangled in it. Snares or nooies are alfo
made of finews to take lelTer animals, fuch as hares and white partridges,
which are very numerous. Their axes are manufaftured of a piece of
brown or grey (lone from fix to eight inches long, and two inches thick.
The infide is flat, and the outfide round and tapering to an edge, an
inch wide. They are fattened by the middle with the flat fide inwards
to an handle two feet long, with a cord of green (kin. This is the tool
with -which they fplit their wood, and we believe, the only one of its kind
among them. They kindle fire, by (Iriking together a piece of white or
yellow pyrites and a flint (lone, over a piece of touchwood. They are
univerfally provided with a fmall bag containing thefe materials, ib that
they are in a continual (late of preparation to produce fire. From the ad-
?;; n ' • ' joining

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

joining tribes, the Red-Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in barter
for marten fkins and a few beaver, fmall pieces of iron, of which they
manufafture knives^ by fixing them at the end of a fhort flick, and with
them and the beaver's teeth, they finifh all their work. They keep tlicn-i
in a fheath hanging to their neck, which alfo contains their awls both of
iron and horn.

1789.
July-

Their canoes are fmall, pointed at both ends, flat-bottomed and co-
vered in the fore part. They are made of the bark of the birch-tree and
fir-wood, but of i'o flight a conflruftion, that the man whom one of thefe
light veflels bears on the water, can, in return, carry it over land with-
out any difficulty. It is very feldom that more than one perfon embarks-
in them, nor are they capable of receiving more than two. The
paddles are fix feet long, one half of which is occupied by a blade,
of about eight inches wide. Thefe peopl« informed us, that we
had pafled large bodies of Indians who inhauit the mountains on the
Eaft fide of the river. -c

At four o'clock in the afternoon we embarked, and our Indian ac-
quaintance promifed to remain on the bank of the river till the fall, in
cafe we fliouid return. Our courfe was Wefl:-South-Wefl;, and we foon
pafled the Great Bear Lake River, which is of a confiderable depth, and
an hundred yards wide : its water is clear, and has the greenifli hue of the
fea. We had not proceeded more than fix miles when we were obliged
to land for the night, in confequence of an heavy gult of wind, accom-
panied with rain. We encamped beneath a rocky hill, on the top of
which, according to the information of our guide, it blew a fl:orm every

day

i«'

III

' »

— V'-

Mondty 6.

Tuefday 7.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

day throughout the year. He found himfelf very uncomfortable in
his new fiuiation, and pretended that he was very ill, in order that he
ftiight be permitted to return to his relations. '1 o prevent his cfcape,
it became neced'ary to keep a ih'iEt watch over him during the night.

At three o'clock, in a very raw and cloudy morning, wc embarked,
and (leered Weft-South- Wed four miles, Well four miles, W^eft-North-
Weil five miles, Weft eight miles, Weft by South fixteen miles, Weft
twenty-fevcn miles. South- Weft nine miles, then Weft fix miles, and
encamped at half paft feven. We pafled through numerous iflands,
and had the ridge of fnowy mountains always in fight. Our condu6lor
informed us that great numbers of bears, and fmall white buffaloes,
frequent thole mountains, which are alfo inhabited by Indians. We
encamped in a fimilar fituation to that of the preceding evening, beneath
another high rocky hill, which I attempted to afcend, in company with
one of the hunters, but before we had got halfway to the funmiit, we were
almoft fuffbcated by clouds of mufquitoes, and were obliged to return.
I obferved, however, that the mountains terminated here, and that a
river flowed from the Weftward: I alfo difcovered a ftrong ripling
current, or rapid, which ran clofe under a fteep precipice of the hill.

We embarked at four in the morning, and crofted to the oppo-
fite fide of the river, in confequence of the rapid; but we -night
have fpared ourfclves this trouble, as there would have been no dan-
ger in continuing our courle, without any circuitous deviation what-
ever. This circumftance convinced us of the erroneous account given
by the natives of the great and approacliing dangers of our navigation,
'•^ ' as

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

as'this rapid was ilated to be one of them. Our courfe was now North-
North-Wefl three miles, Weft-North-Weft four miles, North-Weft
ten miles. North two miles, when we came to a river that flowed from
the Eaftward. Here we landed at an encampment of four fires, all the
inhabitants of which ran off with the utmoft fpeed, except an old man ana
an old woman. Our guide called aloud to the fugitives, and entreated
them to ftay, but without effeft: the old man, however, did not hefitate
to approach us, and reprelented himfelf as too far advanced in life, and
too indifferent about the fliort time he had to remain in the world, to
be very anxious about efcaping from any danger that threatened him ;
at the fame time he pulled his grey hairs from his head by handfulls to
diftribule among us, and implored our favour for himfelf and his rela-
tions. Our guide, however, at length removed his fears, and perfuaded
him to recall the fugitives, who confifted of eighteen people; whom I
reconciled to me on their return with prefents of beads, knives, awls, &c,
with which they appeared to be greatly delighted. They differed in
no refpcCl from thole whom we had already Icon ; nor were they defi-
cicnt in holj)itable attentions; they provided us with fifh, which was
very well boiled, and cheerfully accepted by us. Our guide Rill
fickcncd after his home, and was fo anxious to return thither, that we
were under the neccllity of forcing him to embark. .. ..„.. ,, .„, ,

June.

•Ij.

Thcfe people informed us that ve were clofe to another great rapid,
and that there M-cre icveral lodges of their relations in its vicinity.
Four canoes, with a man in each, followed us, to point out the par-
ticular channels wc (hould follow for the iccurc pall'agu of the rapid.
They alio abounded in d'fcournging ftories concerning the dangers and
difficullies which wc were lo encounter.

Q ^ , From

|.J

4»

»789.'
July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

From hence our courfe was North-North-Eaft two miles, when the
river appeared to be enclofed, as it were, with lofty, perpendicular,
white rocks, which did not afford us a very agreeable profpeft. We
now went on fhore in order to examine the rapid, but did riot perceive
any ligns of it, though the Indians ftill continued to magnify its dangers:
however, as they ventured down it, in their fmall canoes, our appre-
henlions were confequently removed, and we followed them at fome
diftance, but did not find any increafe in the rapidity of the current;
at length the Indians informed us that we fhould find no other rapid
but that which was now bearing us along. The river at this place is
not above three hundred yards in breadth, but on founding I found
fifty fathoms water. At the two rivulets that offer their tributary flreams
from either fide, we found fix families, confifting of about thirty-five
perfons, who gave us an ample quantity of excellent fifh, which were,
however, confined to white fifh, the poifl'on inconnu, and another of a
round form and grechifh colour, which was about fourteen inches in
length. We gratified them with a few prefents, and continued our
voyage. The men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes*

This narrow channel is three miles long, and its courfe North-Northr-
Eafl. We then fleered North three milcs» and landed at an encampv-
mcnt of three or more families, containing twenty-two perfons, which
was fituttted on. the bank of a river, of a confiderable appearance, which
came from tlic Eaflward. We obtained hares and partridges from thefe
people, and prelcntcd ia return fuch articles as greatly delighted them.
They very much regretted that they had no goods or merchandize to
exchange with us\ a5 they had left them at a lake^ from whence the river

iifuedii

i N»"r

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

HTued, and in whofe vicinity fome of their people were employed in
fetting fnares for rein deer. They engaged to go for their articles
of trade, and would wait our return, which we affured them would be
within two months. There was a youth among them in the capacity
of a (lave, whom our Indians underflood much better than any of the
natives of this country, whom they had yet leen : he was invited to
accompany us, but took the firll opportunity to conceal bimfelf, and
we f'aw him no more.

We now Ileered Weft five miles, when we again landed, and found
two families, containing leven people, but had reafon to believe that
there were others hidden in the woods. We received from them two
dozen of hares, and they were about to boil two more, which they
alfo gave us. We were not ungrateful for their kindnefs, and left
them. Our coarfe was now North- Well four miles, and at nine we
landed and pitched our tents, when one of our people killed a grey
crane. Our condu6lor renewed his complaints, not, as he aflured us,
from any apprehenfion of our ill-treatment, but of the Efquimaux, whom
he reprelented as a very wicked and malignant people; who would put
us all to death. He added, alfo, that it was but two fuininers fince a
large party of them came up this river, and killed many of his relations.
Two Indians followed us from the laft lodges.

1789.

% I

At half paft two in the morning wc embarked, and Ileered a WcHerly Wcdncf. 8,
courfe, and foon after put afhorc at two lodges of nine Indians. Wc
made them a few trifling prcfcnts, but without difembarking, and had
proceeded but a fmall didancc from thence, when we oblerved fcvcral

G 2 « (hioJ^cs

17%.
July.

— V—

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

finok^s l>eneath an hill, on the North fhore, and on our approach we
per<:eivcd the natives climbing the afcent to gain the woods. The
Indians, howewr, in the two fmall canoes which were ahead of us*
having alTurcd them of our friendly intentions, they ireturned to their
%es, and '^ve dilembarked. Several of them 'were clad in hare-Jkins,
i^ut in every other circumftance they rcfembled thofe whom we had
already feen. We were, however, informed that they were of a different
tribe, called the Hare Indians, as hares and fifh are their principal fup-
port, from t' t fcarcity of rein-deer and beaver, which are the only
animals of the larger kind that frequent this part of the country.
They were twenty-jfive in number; and among them was a womaai who
v^as afflifted with an abcefs in the belly, and reduced, in confcquence,
to a mere Ikoleton: at the feaie time feveral old women were'lingin^'
and howling around her; but whether thefe noifes were to operate as a
charm for her cure, or merdly to amufe and confole her, I do not pre*
tend to determine. A fmall quantity of out ulual prefents were
received by them with the grcateft fatisfaction.

Here we made an exchange of our guide, who had become fo trouble-
fome'that we were obligrd to watch him night and day, except when
he was upon the water. The man, however, who had agreed to go in
his place foon repented of his engagement, and endeavoured to perfuade
us that fomc of his relations further down the river, would readily ac-
company us, and were much belter acquainted with the river than him-
felf. But, as he had informed us ten minutes before that we fhould fee
no more of his trib'^, we paid very little attention to hia remonftranccs,
and compelled him to embark.

NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA,

In about three hours a man overtook us in a fmall canoe, and we
fufpetled that his obje6l was to facihtate, in fome way or other, the
efcape of our conduftor. About twelve we alfo obferved an Indian
walicing along the North-Eafl; (hore, when the fmall canoes paddled
towards him. We accordingly followed, and found three men, three
women, and two children, who had been on an hunting expedition.
They had fotne flefli of the rein-deer, which they oflfered to us, but it
was f(. rotten, as well as ofFenfive to tlie fraell, that we excufed our-
felves fiom accepting it. They had alfo their wonderful Itories of
danger and terror, as well as their countrymen, whom we had already
feen ; and we were now informed, that behind the oppofite ifland there
was a Manitoe or fpirit, in the river, which fwallowed every perfon that
approached it. As it would Jiave employed half a day to have indulged
our curiofity in proceeding to examine this phaenomenon, we did not
deviate from our courfe, but left thefe people with the ulual prefents,
and proceeded on our voyage. Our courfe and diftance this day were
Well twenty-eight miles, Weft-North- Well twenty-three miles, Well-
South- Well fix miles, Weft by North five miles, South- Weft four miles,
and encamped at eight o'clock. A fog prevailed the greater part of
the day, with frequent ftiowers of fmall rain.

1789.
July-

' ■ hi .

CUM,

JOURN AL, OF ^A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

CHAPTER IV.

The new guide makes his efcape. Compel another to fupply his place.
Land at an encampment of another tribe of Indians, Account of their
manners, dre/s, weapons, &c. Traffic with them, Defcription of a
beautiful fjh. Engage anotlier guide. His curious behaviour. Kill a
fox and ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe called the
DegUthee Denees, or Quarellers, Saw flax growing wild. The varying
charader if the river and its banks. Diflant mountains. Perplexity
from the numerous channels of the river. Determined to proceed. Land
•where there had been an encampment of the Efquimaux. Saw large
flocks of wild fowl. View of the fun at midnight. Defcription of a
place lately deferted by the Indians. Houfes of the natives defcribed.
Frequent fliowers. Saw a black fox. The difcontents of our hunters re-
newed, and pacified. Face of the country. Land at afpot lately inha-
bited. Peculiar circumflances of it. Arrive at the entrance of tlie lake
Proceed to an ijland. Some account of it.

'III I

1789.

Tliurldayg.

A HUNDER and rain prevailed during the night, and, in the courfe
of it, our guide deferted; we therefore compelled another of thefe
people, very much againft his will, to fupply the place of his fugitive
countryman. We alfo too'' away the paddles of one of them who

remained

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

remained behind, that he might not follow us on any fcheme of pro-
moting the efcape of his companion, who was not eafily pacified. At
length, however, we fucceeded in the a6t of conciliation, and at half
paft three quitted our ftation. In a fhort time we faw a fmoke on the
Ealt fliore, and dire6led our courfe towards it. Our new guide began
immediately to call to the people that belonged to it in a particular
manner, which we did not comprehend. He informed us that they
were not of his tribe, but were a very wicked, malignant people, who
would beat us cruelly, pull our hair with great violence from our heads^
and mal-treat us in various other ways^

1789.

July.

The men waited our arrival, but the women and children took to the
woods. There were but four of thefe people, and previous to our land-
ing, they all harangued us at the fame moment, and apparently with
violent anger and refentment. Our hunters did not underlland them,
but no fooner had our guide addrefled them, than they were appeafed.
I prefented them with beads, awls, &c. and when the women and chil-
dren returned from the woods, they were gratified with fimilar articles.
There were fifteen of them ; and of a more pleafing appearance than
any which we had hiiherto feen, as they were healthy, full of flefli,
and clean in their perfons. Their language was fomewhat different,
but I believe chiefly in the accent, for they and our guide convcrfed
intelligibly with each other; and the Englilh chief clearly comprehended,
one of them, though he was not himfelf underftood.

> i

'•<< i

\.^ ,

Their arms and utcnfils diflTer but little from thofe which have been
defcribed in a former chapter. The only iron they have is in fmall pieces,

which

I '!

i78().

JOURNAl OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

which ferve them- for- knives. They obtain this metal from the Efqui-
maux Indians. Their arrows are made of very light wood, and are winged
only with two feathers ; their bows differed from any which we had feen,
and we underflood that they were furnifhed by the Efquimaux, who are
thflt neighbours : they confift of two pieces, with a very ftrong cord
of finews along the back, which is tied in feveral places, to preferve its
fhape; when this cord becomes wet, it requires a ftrong bow-ftring, and
a powerful arm to draw it. The veflel in which they prepare their
food, is made of a thin frame of wood, and of an oblong fliape ; the
bottom is fixed in a curve, in the fame manner as a cafk. Their fhirts
are not cut fquare at the bottom, but taper to a point, from the belt
downwards as low as the knee, both before and behind, with a border,
embellifhed with a fhort fringe. They ufe alfo another fringe, fimilar
to that which has been already defcribed, with the addition of the flone
of a grey farinaceous berry, of the fize and fhape of a large barley-
corn: it is of a brown colour, and fluted, and being bored is run on
each firing of the fringe; with this tliey decorate their fliirts, by fewing
it in a femicircJe on the breafl and back, and croffing over both
flioulders ; the fleevcs are wide and fhort, but the mittens fupply their
deficiency, as they are long enough to reach over a part of the ileevCf
and are commodioufly fufpended by a cord from the neck. If their
Icggins were made with waiflbands, they might with great propriety be
denominated trowlers: they fiflen them with a cord round the middle,
fo that they appear to have a i'enfe of decency which their neighbours
cannot boafl. Their flioes are fewed to their leggins, and decorated on
every fcam. One of the men was clad in a fhirt made of the fkins of the
mulk-rat. The drcfs of the women is the fame as that of the men, except

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

in their fhirts, which are longer, and without the finifliing of a fringe oh
their breafl. Their pecuHar mode of tying the hair is as follows:— that
which growfi on the temples, or the fore part of the fkull, is formed into
two queues, hanging down before the ears; that of the fcalp or crown
is fafhioned in the fame manner to the back of the neck, and is then tied
with the reft of the hair, at fome diftance from the head. A thin cord
is employed for thefe purpofes, and very neatly worked with hair,
artificially coloured. The women, and, indeed, fome of the men, let
their hair hang loofe on their ftioulders, whether it be long or (hort. i

1789.
July.

We purchafed a couple of very large moofe flcins from thtin, which
were very well dreffed; indeed we did notfuppofe that there were any
of thofe animals in the count.y; and it appears from the accounts of
the natives themfelves, that they are very fcarce. As for the beaver, the
cxiftence of fuch a creature does not feem to be known by them. Our
people bought (hirts of them, and many curious articles, &c. They
prefented us with a moft delicious fifh, which was lefs than an her-
ring, and very beautifully fpotted with black and yellow : its dorfal
fin reached from the head to the tail; in its expanded ftate takes a
triangular form, and is variegated with the colours that enliven the
fcales: the head is very fmall, and the mouth is armed with (harp-
pointed teeth, ^, \ , .

. 1 iv.ui . UrtoHVr ' uwh

» We prevailed on the native, whofe language was moft intelligible, to

accompany us. He informed us that we fhould fleep ten nights more

before we arrived at the fea; that feveral of his relations relided in the

immediate vicinity of this part of tlie river, and that in three nights we

H fhould

n'H

.ri^;,

' \;- '

■4 J i

i ',. Ji-j

■

fi«

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAOJE THROUGH THE

(honid meet with the Efquimaiix. ♦vjth yrhom they had formerly made
;:ar, but wert now in a ftate of peace and amity. He mentioned the
lafl Indian) whom we had feen in tetms of great derifion; defcribing
them as being no better than old wornn^,; and as abominable liars;
which Coincided with the hotion we already entertained of them. ..wi -«s

t^CTliHU} .

;w^

As we pufli^d ofFj fome of my men difcharged their fowling pieces,
that were only loaded with powder, a( the report of which the
Indians Were very much alarmed^ as they had not before heard the dif-
charge of fire arms. This circumftance had fuch an effe6l upon our
guide, that we had reafon to apprehend he would not fulfil his promife.
When, howevfer, he wks infiirracd that thi ndife which he had heard was
a fignal of friendfhip, he was perfuaded to embark in bis own fmall
canoe, though hei hid been offered a feat in oura.-y^hnn-nU zo/iJcxi mm
liiCi .m'jfij y<l nwon,! '>d oJ nt ?.!>Qb mu'i^'yi^ « (hfi\ '\o oocniVtm

Two of his companions, whom he reprefented as his brothers, Followed
us in their canoes ; and they amufed us not only with their native fongs,
"but with others, in imitation of the Efquimaux ; and our new guide was
fo enlivened by them^ tlrat the antics he petformed, in keeping time to
the finging, alarmed us with continual apprehenfion that his boat
mud upfet: but he was not long content with his confined fituation, and
paddling up along-fide our canoe, requefied us to receive him in it,
though but a fhort time before he had refolutely refufed to accept our
invitation^ No fooner had he entered our canoe, than he begoAi' to
perform an £fquimafu'x dance, to our no fmall alarm. He wasthow*
cVer, (boh "prevailed upon to be mort tranquil ; when he began to diiplay
various indecbnciesi according to the caftoms of the Efquimaux, of
huiiiiU i4 which

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA^.

!^hicH,he bo«Aed an iotimatie acquaijaitaace. On ovur pubtti^g to ihbre,
in or^er to leave his canoe, he informed us, that on the oppofite hjU the *
Efquimaux, thpcc winters before, killed feis grandfather. We faw a fox,
f.rid a ground hog on the hill, .the laJbter of which this brother of our
^ttidefhot with his bow and arrow, jn D's^ntvnq^ oUis 4pdX .u^lmid
Pit r^nWin faddtm jltsdmo-^t ci b'jSa6\{Kri rni JflriJ ol /nnioti iiry^ o^'T
About. £3ur in the afternoon we perceived a fmoke on the Weft lhoc«,
when we traverfiad and landed. The natives made a raoft terrible
uproar, talking <with jgreat vociferation, and running idixouit as if they
wterc derived of their fcnfes, while the greater part of the women, with
the children, fled away. Perceiving the diforder which our appeaiance
occafioned among thefe people, we had waited fome time before we
i{uitted the icamoc; and I haviC no ds3U)b(t, if we had been without
^people to intf oduce us, that they would have attempted fome violence
-againft us; for when the India 15 fend away their women and Children, it
is . ailwaiys with an Jioftile dfiGgn. At length we paciiied them with the
Kikfiial prdbatfi, but they pieferned beads to a^y of the articles that I
lOiTered ibem; patrticularly fiich as were of a blue colour; and one of
.them even risquefted to exchange a knife which I had given him for a
rfmall quantity: of thofe ornamental baubles. I purchafed of them two
ifhirts fon my hunters; and at the fame time they prefented me with
'fome arrrowft'ftnd dried fifli. This party conlifled of five families, to
the. amount, ai I iuppofe, offorty men, women, and children; but I did
jxot fee tflbjem )all, ^ feveral w«re afraid to /fentuve from their hiding-
fjJaccs. They we called Btguthte Bine€s, or the QmrrelUrs. i u i . j .

Our guide, like his predecelFors, now manifefted his wifti to leave us,
3J^ ■ H 2 and

5»

July.

r.^

yii

i. HI

V. I

1789.
July.

— V-"

pURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

and entertained fimilar apprehenfions that we (hould not return by this
paflage. He had his alarms alfo refpefling the Efquimaux, who might
kill us, and take away the women. Our Indians, however, aflured him
that we had no fears of any kind, and that he need not be alarmed for
himfelf. They alfo convinced him that we (hould return by the way
we were going, fo that he confented to re-embark without giving us
any further trouble ; and eight fmall canoes followed us. Our courfes
this day were South- Weft by Weft fix miles, South- Weft by South
thirty miles. South- Weft three miles. Weft by South twelve miles. Weft
by North two miles, and we encamped at eight in the evening on the
Eaftern bank of the river.

The Indians whom I found here, informed me, that from the place
where I this morning met the firft of their tribe, the diftance overland, on
the Eaft fide, to the fea, was not long; and that from hence, by pro-
ceeding to the Weftward, it was ftill fliortdr. > They alfo reprefented the
land on both fides as projefling to a point Thefe people do not appear
to harbour any thievifti difpofitions; at leaft we did not perceive that
they took, or wanted to take, any thing from us by ftealth or artifice.
They enjoyed the amufements of dancing and jumping in common with
thofe we had already feen ; and, indeed, thefe exercifes feem to be their
favourite diverfions. About mid-day the weather was fultry, but in the
afternoon it became cold. There was a large quantity of wild flax, the
growth of the laft year, laying on the ground, and the new plants were
fprouting up. through it. This cifcuinftance I did not obferve in any
other part.

hnB

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

At four in the morning we embarked, at a fmall diftance from the place
of our encampment; the river, which here becomes narrower, flows
between high rocks ; and a meandring courfe took us North-Weft four
miles. At this fpot the banks became low ; indeed, from the firft rapid,
the country does not wear a mountainous appearance; but the banks of
the river are generally lofty, in fome places perfeftly naked, and in
others well covered with fmall trees, fuch as the fir and the birch.
We continued our laft courfe for two miles, with mountains before us,
whofe tops were covered with fnow.

1780.

Fridnv 10.

, i ' i. i

*i4'Jo'?q 36 V7 r.

■' hfi'C : f^t?.

The land is low on both fides of the river, except thefe mountains,
whofe bafe is diftant about ten miles: here the river widens, and runs
through various channels, formed by iflands, fome of which are without
a tree, and little more than banks of mud and fand; while others are
covered with a kind of fpruce fir, and trees of a larger fize than we
had feen for the laft ten days. Their banks, which are about fix feet
above the furface of the water, difplay a face of folid ice, intermixed
with veins of black earth and as the heat of the fun melts the ice, the
trees frequently fall into the river. ,«*,«, u.w n.~vj »..««..( ..» ..*. .,.«..

. So various were the channels of the river at this time, that we were
at a lofs which to take. Our guide preferred the Eafternmoft, on ac-
count of the Efquimaux, but I determined to take the middle channel, as
it appeared to be a larger body of water, and running North and South :
befides, as there was a greater chance of feeing them I concluded, that we
could always go to the Eaftward, whenever we might prefer it. Our courfe
. . /« ,^ . .. .-..,.. —..'._-...* was-

•*.^:.^^)!P¥ni

nSg.

^-^ >

, f

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

was now Weft by North fix miles, North-Weft by Weft, the fnowy moun-
tains being Weft by South from us, and ftretching to the Northward as
far as we could fee. According to the information of the Indians, they
are part of the chain of mountains which we approached on the third
of this month. I obtained an obfervation this day that gave me Gy. 47.
North latitude, which was farther North than I expefled, according to the
courfe I kept ; but the difference was owing to the variation of the com-
pafs, which was more Ealterly than I imagined. From hence it was
evident that thefe waters emptied themfelvcs into the Hyperborean
Sea ; and though it was probable that, from the want of provifion, we
could not return to Athabafca in the courfe of the feafon, I neverthe-
lefs, determined to penetrate to the difcharge of thcm.f.tuu tt >.».a -junhr

. ^ . •. . I i ■ , . . . ■ » .

My new conduftor being very much difcouraged and quite tired of ^
his fituation, uied his influence to prevent our proceeding. He had
never been, he faid, at the Benahulla Toe, or White Man's Lake ; and
that when he went to the Efquimaux Lake, which is at no great diftance,
he pafled over land from the place where we found him, and to that part
where the Efquimaux pais the fummer. In ftiort, my hunters alfo be-
came fo diflieartened from thcfe accounts, and other circumftances, that
I was confident they would have left me, if it had been in their power.
I, however, latisfied them, in fome degree, by the affurance, that I would
proceed onwards but feven days more, and if I did not then get to the
fea, I would return. Indeed, the low ftate of our provifions, without
any other confideration, formed a very fufticient fccurity for the main-
:i ,.f. iiiji) ' i^uMiH wvsnaxiw ,bu v/iiu^ !>iu i>i <..j Jf^*: tenancc

North-west CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

tenance of my engagement. Our laft courfe was thirty-two miles, with
a flronger corrent than could be expefted in fuch a low country.

Wc now proceeded North-North-Weft four miles. North- We ft three
miles, North-Eaft two miles, North-Weft by Weft three miles, and
NorthtEaft two miles. At half paft eight in the evening we landed and
pitched OUT tents, near to where there had been three encampments of
the Eiiquimaux, fince the breaking up of the ice. The natives, who fol-
lowed us yefterday, left us at our Itation this morning. In the courl^
of the day we faw large flocks of wild fowl. >"> }'niv i?f>fi'iai ,w<'i w« h

1789.
July.

•<.!•;■

; li

I fat up all night to obferve the fun. At half paft twelve I called up Saturday tu
one of the men ,to view a fpeftacle which he had never before leen ;
when, on feeing the fun fo high, he thought it. was a fignal to embark,
and began to call the rcil of his companions, who would fcarcely be per*
fuaded by me, that the fun had not de (bended: nearer to tlie horizon, and
that it was now but,A.fl^9rt time paU midni^hj, j ■)n,) \mn .bririoj)^ ».4t

[j,;We rfepofed, however, till three quarters after three, when we entered
the canoe, and fleered about North- Weft, the river taking a very fer-
penMue CQurfe. About {even we fuw a iidge of high land: at twelve
we landed at a fpot where we obfcrvcd that Ibnie of the natives had
lately b<)en, I counted thirty places where there had been fires; and
(bme of the mert; who went further, faw as many more; They muft have
,bcen here for a cbnQderable time, though it dues not appear that they
had ete^kd .any huti. A great number of poles, however, were leen
lixed in tlie river, to which they had attached their nets, 'vnd there fcemed
"• to

I V

I ,1

? I

1789.

J"iy.

•-»» .•S.-J;.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THRQUGH THE

to be an excellent fifhery. One of the fiCh, of the many which we faw
leap QUI of the water, fell into our canoe ; it was about ten inches
long, and of a round fhape. About the places where they had made
their fires were Ibattered pieces of whalebone, and thick burned leather,
wilii parts of the frames of three canoes ; we could alfo obferve where
they had fpilled train oil ; and there was the lingular appearance of a
fpruce fir, ftripped of its branches to the top like an Englifh may>poIe.
The weather was cloudy, and the air cold and unpleafant. From this
place for about five miles, the river widens, it then flows in a variety
of narrow, meandering channels, amongft low iflands, enlivened with no
trees, but a few dwarf willows.

At four, we landed, where there were tnree houfes, or rather huts, be-
longing to the natives. The ground-plot is of an oval form, about
fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either
end : the whole of it is dug about twelve inches below the furface of
the ground, and one half of it is covered over with willow branches ;
which probably ferves as a bed for the whole family. A fpace, in
the middle of the other part, of about four feet wide, is deepened
twelve inches more, and is the only fpot in tiie houfe where a grown
perfon can (land upright. One fide of it is covered, as has been
already defcribed, and the other is the hearth or fire-place, of which,
however, they do not make much ufe. Though it was ciofe to the
wall, the latter did not appear to be burned. The door or entrance
is" in the middle of one end of the houfc, and is about two feet and
an half high and two feet wide, and has a covered way or porch five
feet in length; fo that it is ubfolutely ncccfiary to creep on all fours

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

in order to get into, or out of, this curious habitation. There is an hole
of about eighteen inches fquare on the top of it, which ferves the three-
fold purpofe of a window, an occafional door, and a chimney. The
under-ground part of the floor is lined with fplit wood. Six or eight
flumps of fmall trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on
which are laid fome crofs pieces of timber, fupport the roof of the
building, which is an oblong Iquare of ten feet by fix. The whole
is made of drift-wood covered with branches and dry grafs ; over which
is laid a foot deep of earth. On each fide of thefc houfes are a few
fquare holes in the ground of about two feet in depth, which are covered
with fplit wood and earth, except in the middle. Thefe appeared to
be contrived for the prefervation of the winter (lock of provifioiis. In
and about the houles we found fledge runners and bones, pieces of
whalebone, and poplar bark cut in circles, which are ufed as corks to
buoy the nets, and are fixed to them by pieces of whalebone. Before
each hut a great number of flumps cT trees were fixed in the ground,
upon which it appeared that they hung their fifli to dry,

AVe now continued our voyage, and encamped at eight o'clock. I
-calculated our courfe at about North-Weft, and, allowing for the wind-
ings, that we had made fifty-four miles. We expcded, throughout the
day, to meet w'th Ibme of the natives. On fcvcral of the illands we per-
ceived the print of their feet in thc^ fand, as if they had been there but a
few days before, to procure wild fowl. 'I'hcre were frequent (howers of
rain in the afternoon, and the weather was raw and difagrceable. We law
a black fox ; but trees w*re now become very rare obje6ls, except a iew
dwarf willows, of not more than three feet in height,

I Till-

1789.

«.'ti t,

"•I

«T ' i

»7»9-

— y

. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The difcontents of our hunters were now renewed by the accounts
which our guide had been giving of that part of our voyage that was
approaching. According to his information, we were to fee a larger
lake on the morrow. Neither he nor his relations, he faid, knew any
thing about it, except that part which is oppofite to, and not far from,
their country. The Efquimaux alone, he added, inhabit its fhores, and
kill a large filh that is found in it, which is a principal part of their food ;
this, we prefumed, mull be the whale. He alfo mentioned whit'^ bears
9nd another large animal which was I'een in thofc parts, but our hunters
?oul4 not underlland the defcription which he gav^ of it. He alfo re-
prefented their canoes as being of a large conflruftion, which would com-
modioufly contain four or five families. However, to reconcile the
Englifh chief to the neceflary continuance in my fervice, I prefented
him with one of my capots or t 'Veiling coats; at the fame time, to
fatisfy the guide, and keep him, if poITible, in good humour, I gave him
a fkin of the moofe-decr, which, in his opinion, was a valuable prefent.

"*!' PU

. l' .*.

Sunday u. It rained with violence throughout the night, and till two in the morn-
ing ; the weather continuing very cold. We proceeded on the fame
meandering courfc as ycfterday, the wind North-North-Wcfl, and the
country ib naked that fcarce a (hrub was to be fcen. At ten in the morn-
ing, we landed where there were four huts, exadly the lame as thofe
which have been ib lately dcfcribcd. The adjacent land is high
and covered with fliort grafs and flowers, though the earth was not
thawed above four inches from the furface; beneath which was a
folid body of ice. This beautiful appearance, however, was flrangely
contralled with the ice and Inow that are feen in the vallict». The foil,

where

,1 I

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

■where there is any, is a yellow clay mixed with flones. Thefe huts apr
pear to have been inhabited during the laft winter ; and we had rcafon
to think, that fome of the natives had been lately there, as the beach
was covered with the track of their feet. Many of the runners and bars
of their fledges were laid together, near the houfes, in a manner that
feemed to denote the return of the proprietors. There were alfo pieces
of netting made of finews, and fome bark of the willow. The thread of
the former was plaited, and no ordinary portion of time muft have been
employed in manufa6luring fo great a length of cord. A fquare (lone-
kettle, with a flat bottom, alfo occupied our attention, which was capable
of containing two gallons ; and we were puzzled as to the means thefe
people muft have employed to have chifelled it out of a foHd rock into
its prefent form. To thefe articles may be added, fmall pieces of flint
fixed into handles of wood, which, probably, ferve as knives ; feveral
wooden diflies ; the ftern and part of a large canoe ; pieces of very thick
leather, which we conjeftured to be the covering of a canoe ; feveral
bones of large fifli, and two heads ; but we could not determine the ani-
mal to which they belonged, though we conjedured that it muft be the
fca-horfe. v

When we had fatisfied our curiofity we rc-embarked, but we were
at a lols what courfe to llecr, as our guide leemed to be as ignorant of
this country as ourfclvcs. Though the current was very ftrong, we ap-
peared to have come to the entrance of the lake. Tiie ftrcam (et to the
Weft, and we went with it to an high point, at the diftance of a oout eight
miles, which we conjeftured to be an illand ; but, on r',^>proaching it, we
perceived it to be connc6led with the fliorc by a low neck of land. I now
. .«, I 2 took

1789.

Julv.

ill

.1789.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

took an obrervation which gave 69. i. North latitude. From the point
that has been jull mentioned, we continued tiie fame courfe for the
Wellernmoft point of an high iQand, and the Wellernraoft land in fight,
at the diflance of fifteen miles.

The lake was quite open to us i.o the Weft ward, and out of the channel
of the river there was not more than four feet water, and in fome places
the depth did not exceed one foot, from the fhallownefs of the
water k was impoffible to coaft to the Weftward. At five o'clock
we arrived at the ifland, and during the laft fifteen miles, five feet was
the deepeft v;ater. The lake now appeared to be covered with ice, for
about two leagues dillance, and no land ahead, fo that we were prevented
from proceeding in this diredion by the ice, and the fliallownefs -^^ the
water along the fhore.

I We landed at the boundary of our voyage in this dire£lion, and as
foon as the tents were pitched I ordered the nets to be fet, when I pro-
ceeded with the Englifh chief to the higheft part of the ifland, from
which we difcovered the folid ice, extending from the South-Weft by
compafs to the Eaftward. As far as the eye could reach to the South-
Weftward, we could dimly perceive a chain of mountains, ftretching
further to the North than the edge of the ice, at the diftance of upwards
of twenty leagues. To the Eaftward we law many iflands, and in our
progrels we met with a conliderablc number of white partridges, now
become brown. There were alfo flocks of very beautiful plovers,
and I found the neft of one of them with four eggs. White owls,
iikewifc^ were among the inhabitants of the place : but tlie dead, as

well

\ I

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

well as the living, demanded our attention, for we came to the grave of
one of the natives, by which lay a bow, a paddle, and a fpear. The
Indians informed me that they landed on a fmall ifland, about four
leagues from hence, where they had feen the tracks of two men, that were
quite frelh -, they had alfo found a fecret ftore of train oil, and feveral
bones of white bears were fcattered about the place where it was hid.
The wind was now fo high that it was impratlicable for us to vifit the
nets. ^•-■ '-^ - '■ ,'^' " •" ■; ''- '■ "■ * "

My people could not, at this time, refra'n from expreCTions of real
concern, that they were obliged to return without reaching the fea:
indeed the hope of attaining this objeft encouraged them to bear, with-
out repining, the hardlhips of our unremitting voyage. For fome time
paft their fpirits were animated oy the expe£lation that another day
would bring them to the Mer d'ouejl : and even in our prefent fituation
they declared their readinefs to follow me wherever I fhould bt pleafed.
to lead them. We faw feveral large white gulls, and other birds, whofe
back, and upper feathers of the wing, are brown; and whofe belly, and
under feathers of the wing are white. , .

.f;^'

1789.

July.

i-^'l

(■>

.•;»>

-.nii>^3*v>: c>.-' »r:^,»':n'rifi ^iliJi'/o/::? ••? hrii ^;(rM•^ir)^;ii'•'.; %,-;y Mxy CHAP.

III

1 1
lii

Ml!

€2

1789.
July-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

i« ' 8'' f*''' *^f

"W'tli'

•)!ift>f iBiil^ iiw-Jfc -c-?« -io iwl...

CHAPTER V.

..;rfw ,«Jfi'5^ moli Ksuwi<?^i

7'i^^ baggage removed from the rijing of the water. One of the nets driven
away by the wind and current. Whales arefeen. Go inpurfuit of them,
but prevented from continuing it by the fog. Proceed to take a vieio
of the ice. Canoe in danger from the fwell. Examine the i/lands.

. Defcribe one of them. Ere6i a poft to perpetuate our vifit there. Tlie

rijing of the water appears to be the tide. SuccefsfulfifJdng. Uncertain

, zueather. Sail among the ifJands. Proceed to a river. Temperature

" Hi

of the air improves. Land on a fmall ijland, which is a place offepul-
ture. Defcription of it. See a great number of wildfowl. Fine view
of the river from the high land. The hunters kill rein-deer. Cran-
^ Merries, &c. found in great plenty. The appearance and /late of the
country. Our guide defer ts. Large flight of geefe : kill many of
them. Violent rain. Return vp the river. Leave the channels for the
main flream. Obliged to tozo the canoe. Land among the natives.
Circumflances concerning them. Their account of the Efquimaux
Indians. Accompany the natives to their huts. Account of our
provifiom.

Moiui'ay i^. V V E had no fooner retired to reft laft night, if I may ufe that expref-
fion, in a country where the fun never finks beneath the horizon, than fome
of the people were obliged to rife and remove the baggage, on account

1789.
July.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 63

of the rifing of ' ? water. At eight in the morning the weather was
fine and calm, w^uh afforded an opportunity to examine the nets, one
of which had been driven from its pofition by the wind and current.
We caught feven poiflbns inconnus, which were unpalatable ; a white
fifh, that proved delicious; and another about the fize of an herring,
which none of us had ever feen before, except the Englifh chief, who
recognized it as being of a kind that abounds in Hudfon's Bay. About
noon the wind blew hard from the Weftward, when I took an obfer-
vation, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, and the meridian' variation of
the compafs was thirty-fix degrees ulaftward*.

This afternoon I re-afcended the hill, but could not difcover that the
ice had been put in motion by the force of the wind. At the fame time
I could juft diftinguilh two fmall iflands in the ice, to the North- Weft
by compafs. I now thought it neceffary to give a new net to my men
to mount, in order to obtain as much provifion as poffible from the
water, our flores being reduced to about five hundred weight, which,
without any other fupply, would not have fufficed for fifteen people
above twelve days. One of the young Indians, however, was fo fortu-
nate as to find the net that had been miffing, and which contained three
of the poifibns inconnus. * ■ :).i\r ;, ^^^ .•• - u". ., . . ;. !/

It blew very hard from the North- Weft fince the preceding evening. TuJday 14.
Having fat up till three in the morning, I flept longer than ufual ; but
about eight one of my men faw a great many animals in the water, which

VitS J,* ■Tilt; longitude has fuice been difcovcrcd by the dead rcikoning to be 135. Wed. juO I

;'*^f.i

■I

/;5

^789.
July-

64 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

he at firft fuppofed to be pieces of ice. About nine, however, I was
awakened to refolve the doubts which had taken place refpefting this
extraordinary appearance. I immediately perceived that they were
ivhales; and having ordered the canoe to be prepared, we embarked in
purfuit of them. It was, indeed, a very wild and unreflefting enterprife,
and it was a very fortunate circumllance that we failed in our attempt to
overtake them, as a flroke from the tail of one of thefe enormous fifti
would have dalhed the canoe to pieces. We may, perhaps, have been
indebted to the foggy weather for our fafety, as it prevented us
from continuing our purfuit. Our guide informed us that they are
the fame kind of fifh which are the principal food of the Efquimaux,
and they were frequently feen as large as our canoe. The part of them
which appeared above the water was altogether white, and they were
much larger than the largefl porpoife.

;i
About twelve the fog difperfed, and being curious to take a view of
the ice, I gave orders for the canoe to be got in readinefs. We accord-
ingly embarked, and the Indians followed us. We had not, however,
been an hour on the water, when the wind rofe on a fudden from the
North-Eaft, and obliged us to tack about, and the return of the fog pre-
vented us from afcertaining our diftance from the ice ; indeed, from this
circumllance, the ifland which we had fo lately left was but dimly
feen. Though the wind was clofe, we ventured to hoilt the fail, and
from the violence of the fwell it was by great exertions that two men
could bale out the water from our canoe. We were in a ftate of aftuai
danger, and felt every correfponding emotion of pleafure when we
reached the land. The Indians had fortunately got more to windward,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

ib that the fwell in fome meafure drove them on fliore, though their
canoes were nearly filled with water ; and had they been laden, we
fhould have feen them no more. As I did not propofe to fatisf'y ray
curiofity at the rifk of fimilar dangers, we continued our courfe along
the illands, which fcreened us from the wind. I was now determined
to take a more particular examination of the iflands, in the hope of
meeting with parties of the natives, from whom I might be able to obtain
fome interefting intelligence, though our condutlor difcouraged my
expe£tations by reprefenting them as very (hy and inaccelhble people.
At the fame time he informed me that we fhould probably find fome of
them, if we navigated the channel which he had originally recommended
us to enter, _. .^__ ::3e-'&m :im&.Aiti^mtmA:h&y^ 'sfij ^„^^„-... ,,;,:-,.* ;„„.,. ..^^

At eight we encamped on the Eaftern end of the ifland, which I had
named the Whale Ifland. It is about feven leagues in length, Eafl;
and Weft by compafs ; but not more than half a mile in breadth.
We faw feveral red foxes, one of which was killed. There were alfo
five or fix very old huts on the point where we had taken our flation.
The nets were now fet, and one of them in five fathom water, the cur-
rent fetting North-Eafl by compafs. This morning I ordered a poll: to
be ereQcd clofe to our tents, on which I engraved the latitude of the
place, my own name, the number of perfons which I had wnth me, and
the time we remained there.

:pm

ijU4>f^ •iOl. UiH 'r:-i ti^'fyW

' KlfH

1789.

.-r-J-.

:..->J:i..di^

Being awakened by fome cafual circumflance, at four this morning, Wcdaer. ij.
I was furpriCed on perceiving that the water had flowed under our baggagq.
As the wind had not changed, and did not blow with greater violence than

K w'licn

^X'i

I':

1789.

July.

'I'

-l',

)■'■
t ■

) 'd

66 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

when we went to reft, we were all of opinion that this circumftance
proceeded from the tide. We had, indeed, obferved at the other end
of the ifland that the water rofe and fell; but we then imagined
that it mult have been occafioned by the wind. The water continued
to rife till about fix, but I could not afcertain the time with the re-
quifite precifion, as the wind then began to blow with great vio-
lence; I therefore determined, at all events, to remain here till the next
morning, though, as it happened, the ftate of the wind was fuch as to.
render my ftay here an aft of neceflity. Our nets were not very fuc-
cefsful, as they prefented us with only eight fifli. From an obfervation
which I obtained at noon, we were in 6g. 7. North latitude. As the
evening approached, the wind increafed, and the weather became cold*
Two fwans were the only provifion which the hunters procured for us.

Thurr<l»yi6. The rain did not ceafe till feven this morning, the weather being at
intervals very cold and unpleafant. Such was its inconftancy, that I
could not make an accurate obfervation ; but the tide appeared to rife
fixteen or eighteen inches.

We now embarked, and fteered under fail among the iflands, where I
hoped to meet with fome of the natives, but my expeftation was not
gratified. Our guide imagined that they were gone to their diflant haunts,
where they fifh for whales and hunt the rein-deer, that are oppofite
to his country. His relations, he faid, let them every year, but he did not
encourage us to expeft that we fhould find nny of them, unlefs it were at a
imall river that falls into the great one, from the Eaftward, at a confider-
able difturice ftom our immediate fituation. We accordingly made for the

river.

NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

river, and ftemmed the current. At two in the afternoon the water was
quite (hallow in every part of our courit-, and we could always find the
bottom with the paddle. At feven we landed, encamped, and fet the
nets. Here the Indians killed two geefe, two cranes, and a white owU
Since we entered the river, we experienced a very agreeable change in
the temperature of the air; but this pleafant circumftance was not with-
out its inconvenience, as it fubjcfted us to the perfecution of the muf-
quitoes.

On taking up the nets, they were found to contain but fix fifh. We
embarked at four in the morning, and pafl'ed four encampments, which
appeared to have been very lately inhabited. We then landed uj)on a
fmall round ifland, dole to the Eaftern fhore, which pofiefled fomewhat of
a facred charafter, as the top of it feemed to be a place of fepulture, from
the numerous graves which we obferved there. We found the frame of
a fmall c^noe, with various difhes, troughs, and other utenfils, which
had bee* the living property of thofe who could now ufe them no more,
and form the ordinary accompaniments of their laft abodes. As no part
of the fkins that mud have covered the canoe was remaining, we con-
cluded that it had been eaten by wild animals that inhabit, or occa-
fionally frequent, the ifland. The frame of the canoe, which was entire,
was put together with whalebone : it was fewed in fome parts, and tied
in others. The fledges were from four to eight feet long; the length
of the bars was upwards of two feet; the runners were two inches thick
and nine inches deep ; the prow was two feet and an half high, and formed
of two pieces, lewed with whalebone; to three other thin fpars of
wood, which were of the fame height, and fixed in the runners by means
• ( -^ K. 2 of

1789.

Juiy.
— ^-

Frid;

yt7.

mm
If

\& \k\

il;

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

of moiiifcs, were fewed two thin broad bars lengthways, at a fmall dif-
tance from each other; thefc frames were fixed together with tliree or
four crofs bars, tied fafl upon the runners ; and on the lower edge of the
latter, fmall pieces of horn were faftcned by wooden pegs, that they,
might (lide with greater facility. They are drawn by (hafts, which I
imagine are applied to any particular fledge as they are wanted, as 1 faw
no more than one pair of them. . .

IE'

About half pafl: one we came oppofite to the firfl fpruce-tree that wc
had fecn for fome time: there are but very few of ihem on the main land,
and they are very fmall ; thofe are larger which are found on the
iflands, where they grow in patches, and clofe together. It is, indeed,
very extraordinary that there fliould be any wood whatever in a country
where the ground never thaws above five inches from the lurfiice. Wc
landed at fcven in the evening. The weather was now very picalant,
and in the courfe of. the day we law great numbers of wild fowl, with
their young ones, but they were fo fliy that we could not approach them.
The Indians were not very fuccefsful in their foraging party, as they killed
only two grey cranes, and a grey goole. Two of them were employed
on the high land to the Eallward, through the greater part of the day,
in fearch of rein-deer, but they could dilcover nothing more than a few
tracks of that animal. I alio afcended the high land, from whence I had
SI delightful view of the river, divided into innumerable flreams, mean-
dering through illunds, lome of which were covered with wood, and
others with grals. The mountains, that formed the oppofite horizon,
were at the diflance of Ibrly miles. The inland view was neither fo
€Xtcnfive nor agreeable, being termiivated by a near range of bleak,

barren

1789.

June.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 69

barren hills, between which are fmall lakes or ponds, while the fur-
rounding country is covered with tufts of mofs, without the Ihade of a
fnigle tree. Along the hills is a kind of fence, made with branches,
where the natives had fet fnares to catch white partridges.

The nets did not produce a finglc (ifli, and at three o'clock in the morn- Saturday .;!•
ing \vc took our departure. The weather was fine and clear, and we palfed
feveral encampments. As the prints of human feet were very frefh in
the fand, it could not have been long fince the natives had vifited the
fpot. We now proceeded in the hope of meeting with fome of them at
the river, whither our guide was conducing us with that expe6lation.
We obferved a great number of trees, in different places, whofe branches
had been lopped off to the tops. They denote the immediate abode of
the natives, and probably ferve for fignals to dire6l each other to their re-
fpeftive winter quarters. Our hunters, in the courfe of the day killed two
rein-deer, which were the only large animals that we had Icen fince we had
been in this river, and proved a very fcafonable fupply, as our Pemmican
had become mouldy for fomc time pall; though in that fituation we
were under the ncccfiity of eating it.

In the vallics and low lands near the river, cranberries arc found
in great abundance, particularly in favourable afpc6ls. It is a fingulac
circuniftance, that the fruit of two fuccceding years may be gathered at
the lame time, from the fame (hrub. Here was alfo another berry, of
a very pale yellow colour, that refembles a rafpberry, and is of a very
agreeable flavour. There is a great variety of other plants and herbs j
whole names and propert'cs arc unknown to mc. . ... ... 1

The

, mm
if;

i'-'il

»t ■ 1

I'l'^! ':il

V i ^ *-<

'i; 'I *• ■

70 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

yh' The weather became cold towards tlie afternoon, with the appearance

* ^ ' of rain, and we landed for the night at feven in the evening The Indians
killed eight geefe. During the greater part of the day I walked with the
EngliPi chief, and found it very difagreeable and fatiguing. Though
the country is fo elevated, it was one continual morafs, except on the
fummits of fomc barren hills. As I carried my hanger in my hand, I
frequently examined if any part of the ground was in a ftate of thaw,
but could never force the blade into it, beyond the depth of fix or eight
inches. The face of the high land, towards the river, is in iome places
rocky, and in others a mixture of fand and Hone, veined with a kind of
red carthj with which the natives bedaub themfelves.

Sunduy 19. It rained, and blew hard from the North, till eight in the morning,
when we difcovered that our condu6lor had efcaped. I was, indeed,
furprifed at his honefty, as he left the moofe-lkin which I had given him
for a covering, and went off in his fhirt, though the weather was T'cry
cold. I inquired of the Indians if they had given him any caufe of
offence, or had observed any recent difpofition in him to dcfert us, but
they affured me that they had not in any inflance difplcafid him: at the
fame time they recolletlcd that he had exprtfled his appreiienfions of
being taken away as a ilavc; nnd his alarms were probably increafed
on the preceding day, when he faw them kill the two rein-drer with fo
much readinefs. In the afternoon the weather became fine and clear,
when we faw large flights of geefe with their young ones, and the hunters
killed twenty-two of them. As they had at this time cad their featiiers,
they could not fly. They were of a finnll kind, and much iiilerior iti
fize to tliofe that frequent the vkiniiy of Allmbalca. At eight, wc took

our

1789.

July.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 71

our ftation near an Indian encampment, and, as we had obferved in
fimilar fituations, pieces of bone, rein-deer's horn, &c. were fcattered
about it. It alfo appeared' that the natives had been employed here in
working wood into arms, utenfiis, &c.

We embarked at three this morning, when the weather was cloudy, Monday 20.
with fmall rain and aft wind. About twelve the rain became fo violent
as to compel us to encamp at two in the afternoon. We law great num.
bers of fowl, and killed among us fifteen geefe and four fwans. Had
the weather been more favourable, we fhould liave added confiderably
to our booty. We now pafled the river, where we expe6led to meet
feme of the natives, but difcovered no figns of them. The ground
clofe to the river does not rife to any conliderable height, and the hills,
which are at a fniall diftance, are covered with the fpruce fir and I'mall
birch trees, to their very fummits.

We embarked at half part one this morning, when the weather was Tuefday ai.
cold and unpleHlant, and the wind South-Well. At ten, we left the
channeli formed by the iflands for the uninterrupted channel of the river,
where we found the current fo ftrong, that it was abfolutely neceffary
to tow the canoe with a line. The land on both fides was elevated, and
almort perpendicular, and the (bore beneath it, which is of no great
breadth, was covered with a grey iUmc that falls from the precipice.
We made much greater expedition with the line, than we could have
(lone with the paddles. The men in the canoe relieved two of thofe on
(hore every two hours, fo that it was very hard and fatiguing duty, but
it faved a great dc«il oi" that time which was fo precious to m. At half

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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

»7^')- pafl eight, we landed at the lame fpot where we had already encamped
— ^ — ' on the ninth inRant. , v . . . . ; ■ . i

In about :..n hour after our arrival, we were joined by eleven of the
natives, who were ftationed further up the river, and there were fome
among them whom we had not feen during our former vifit to this place.
The brother of our late guide, however, was of the party, and was eager
in his inquiries after him ; but our account did not prove latisfaflory.
They all gave evident tokens of their fufpicion, and each of them made
a difl.in6l harangue on the occafion. Our Indians, indeed, did not un-
derfland their eloquence, though they conjcftured it to be very unfa-
vourald'? CO our affcrtions. The brother, neverthelcfs, propoled to barter
his credulity for a fnuiU quantity of beads, and promiled to believe every
thing I fliould fay, if I would gratify hiin with a few of thofe baubles :
but he did not fucceed in his propolition, and I contented myfelfwhh
giving him the bow and arrows which our copdu61or had left with us.

i- \ », f

;!■ It

My people were now neccfllirily engaged in putting the fire-arms in
order, after tiie violent rain of the preceding day ; an employment
which very much attratled the curiofity, and appeared, in fome degree to
awaken the apprehenfions, of the natives. 'i"o the ir inquiries concerning
the motives of our preparation, we anfwered by fliewing a piece of meat
and a gooie, and inlbrming them, that we were preparing our arms to pro-
cure fimilar provifions : at the lame time we alUned llicm, though it was
our intention to kill any animals we n/ight find, there was no intention
to hurt or injure them. Thev, however, entreated us not lodifcharge our
pieces in their prcfence. I requelUd the Englilh cluqf to alk tliem fome
; ([ueftions,

!i-tmmi)ii

NORTH W F.fvr CONTINENT OF AMFRICA.

queftions, which th.v uth r did not or would not underftand; fo that I
failed in obtaining ? ./ I.i.iormation from them.

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''v.-*:-.

1789.
July.

All my people went to reft ; but I thought it prudent to fit up, in
order to watch the motions of the natives. This circumftance was a
fubjeft of their inquiry ; and their curiofity was Hill more excited, when
they faw me employed in writing. About twelve o'clock I perceived
four of their women coming along the fhore; and they were no fooner
feen by their f ends, than they ran haftily to meet them, ind perfuaded
two of them, who, I fuppofe, were young, to return, while they
brought the other two who were very old, to enjoy the warmth of
our fire ; but, after ftaying there for about half an hour, they alfo re-
treated. Thofe who remained, immedi^.ioly kindled a fmall fire,
and laid thrnsfc-ives down to fleep round it, like lb many whelps,
having neither fi^ins or garments of any kind lo cover lem,
notwithft»i>ding tV cold that prevailed. My people having placed
their kcnle r" fi^r?- jn the fire, I was obliged to guard it h om th? native's,
who ma fjvcrai attempts to polfefs thc.iifelves of iti. contents ; and this
vas the oi>iy inUancelhft 1 hitherto difcovertd, of th<""ir beiri-, Influenced
by a pilfcrmg iihofiiion. It might, perhaps, be a general opinion, that
provifions wcie a common property. I now faw the fun iet for the firll
time fince I had been here before. During the precf J'ng night, the
weather was fo cloudy, that I could iiot obferve its defccnt to the horizon.
The watei had funk, at this place, upward of thica foet fince we had
pafTcd down the river.

Wr began ouv march y^l half pafl three this morning, the men bring nv

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July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

employed to tow the canoe. I walked with the Indians to their huts,
which were at a greater diflance than I had any reafon to expeft, for it
occupied three hours in hard walking to reach them. We pafFed a narrow
and deep river in our way, at the mouth of which the natives had let
their nets. They had hid their eftefts, and fent their young women into
the v/oods, as we law but very few of the former, and none of the latter.
They had large huts built with drift wood on the declivity of the beach,
and in the in fide the earth was dug away, fo as to form a level floor. At
each end was a flout fork, whereon was laid a flrong ridge-pole, which
formed a fupport to the whole ftru£lure, and a covering of fpruce bark pre-
ferved it from the rain. Various fpars of different heights were fixed
within the hut, and covered with fplit fifh that hung on them to dry ;
and fires were made in different parts to accelerate the operation. There
were rails alfo on the outfide of the building, which were hung
around with fifli, but in a frefher ftate than thofe within. The fpawn is
alfo carefully preferved and dried in the fame manner. We obtained as
many fifh from them as the canoe could conveniently contain, and fome
firings of beads were the price paid for them, an article which they
preferred to every other. Iron they held in little or no cftimation. , ,.

During the two hours that I remained here, I employed the Englifh
chief in a continual fiate of inquiry concerning ihcfe people. The in-
formation that refultcd from this conference was as follows. ,; „, ^v),[',. ,',

This nation or tribe is very numerous, with whom the El'quimaux had
been continually at variance, a people who take every advantage of at-
tucking thofc who are not in a ftatc to defend thcmfclves ; and though

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

they had promifed fViendfhip, had lately, and in the moft treacherous
manner, butchered fome of their people. As a proof of this circum-
ftance, the relations of the deceafed fhewed us, that they had cut off
their hair on the occafion. They alfb declared their determination to
withdraw all confidence in future from the Esquimaux, and to colleft
themfelves in a formidaule body, that they might be enabled to revenge
the death oi their friends, jj*. ., , jj ,; A *; ui *i.-!;»i -; . « i .i^ins i. i)' ; , t

From their account, a (Irong party of Efquimaux occalionaliy afcends
this river, in large canoes, in fearch of flint Itrnes, which they employ to
point their fpears and arrows. They were now at their lake due Eaft
from the fpot where we then were, which was at no great diflance over
land, where they kill the rein-deer, and that they would foon begin to
catch big fifli for the winter flock. We could not, however, obtain any
information refpe6ling the lake in the direflion in which 've were. To
the Eallward and Weflward where they faw it, the ice breaks up, but
foon freezes again.

The Efquimaux informed them that they law large canoes full of
white men to the Weflward, eight or ten winters ago, from whom they
obtained iron in exchange for leather. The lake where they met thefe
canoes, is called by them Belkoullny Toe, or White Man's Lake.
They alfo reprefented the Efquimaux as drelling like tiiemlelves. They
wear their hair (hort, and have two holes perforated, one on each (ide
of the mouth, in a line with the under lip, in which tliey place long
beads that they find in the lake. Their bows are iomcwhat differciu
from thofe ull^d by the natives we had fecn, and they employ IJings (rom
twii L 2 whence

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July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

wjience they throw ftones with fuch dexterity that they prove very
formidable weapons in the day of battle, k mum^A^Sim-- /-^lujfj^

'Bn ■'-•- h--' ■—■^' ■ '■ --h ■•'-I ■"-'

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< We alfo learned in addition from the natives, that we (hould not lee
any more of their relations, as they had all left the river to go in purfuic
of rein-deer for their provifions, and that they themfelves fhould en*
gage in a fimilar expedition in a few days. Rein-deer, bears, wolvereens,
martens, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes are the only quadrupeds in
their country ; and that the latter were only to be found in the moun-
tains to the Weftward. ' ^-rntx ' -t\i;

..„. j-y

Thuifclay23.

We proceeded with the line throughout the day, except two hours,
when we employed the fail. We encamped at eight in the evening.
From the place we quitted this morning, the banks of the river are well
covered with fmall wood, fpruce, firs, birch, and willow. We found it
very warm during the whole of our progrels.

At five in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, but found it
very difficult to travel along the beach. We obferved feveral places where
the natives had flationed themfelves and fet their nets fince our paflage
downv/ards. We paffed a fmall river, and at five o'clock our Indians
put to (hore in order to encamp, but we proceeded onwards, which dif-
plcafed them very much, from the fatigue they fuffercd, and at eight we
encamped at our pofition of the 8th inftant. The day was very fine,
and we employed the towing line throughout the courfe of it. At ten,
our hunters returned, fallen and diflatisfied. Wc had not touched any
of our provifion ftores for fix days, in which time we had confumcdtwo

rein

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

rein-deer, four fwans, forty-five geefe, and a confiderable quantity of fifh :
but it is to be confidered, that we were ten men, and four women,
I have always obferved, that the north men pofleffed very hearty appe-
tites, but they were very much exceeded by thofe with me, fince we
entered *his river. I (hould really have thought it abfolute gluttony in
my people, if my own appetite had not increafed in a fimilar proper*

1789.

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II;

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1789.

July.
Friday 24.

.ff-smcf/ •'.-!-?{ bns t^sifK rt-^i ovy*r fjv/ .iniJ J I'rr.ihO ■•?<>-) -sti c3 'A It Jt3<|

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:« *:^miiH^'M!:G]<'ii ?f 1:1-.,:...-.. ..•,... ^ __. .-1} i' .ta^'b -Ifiil ■h»"^">mf»

Employ the towing line. Defcription of a place zohere the Indians come
to colleElJlint. Their Jliynejs andfnfpicions. Current lejjcns. Appear-
ance of the country. Abundance of hares, f^iolent Jlorm. Land
near three lodges. Alarm of the Indians. Supply of fifh from them.
Their fabulous accounts. Continue to fee Indian lodges. Treatment of
a difeafe. Mi/underjlanding with the natives. The interpreter harangues
them. Their accounts fimilar to ihofe we Iiave already received. Their
curious condu6l. Purchafe fome beaver Jkins. Shoot one of their dogs.
The confequence of that aB. Apprehenfions of the xoomen. Large
quantities of liquorice. Szvalloxv's nefts feen in the precipices. Fall
in with a party of natives killing geefe. Circuvijlances concerning them.
Hurricane. Variation of the weather. Kill great numbers of geefe.
Abundance of feveral kinds of berries. State of the river and its
bank

■' .,«v

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jl\T five we continued our courfe, but, in a very fhort time, were under
the neceflity of applying to the aid of the line, the ftream being fo ftrong
as to render all our attempts unavailing to flem it with the paddies. We
paffed a fmall river, on each fide of which the natives and Efquimaux
colleft flint. The bank is an high, Tu'cp, and foft rock, variegated with

red,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

red, green, and yellow hues. From the continual dripping of water,
parts of it frequently fall and break into fmall ftony flakes like flate, but
not fo hard. Among them are found pieces of Petrolium, which bears
a refemblance to yellow wax, but is more friable. The Englifh chief
informed me, that rocks of a fimilar kind are Icattered about the
country, at the back of the Slave Lake, where the Chepewyans col-
left copper.

1789.

"i i « J I i i

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At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had been engaged in
towing, re-embarked. At twelve we obferved a lodge on the fide of the
river, and its inhabitants running about in great confufion, or hurry,
ing to the woods. Three men waited our arrival, though they re-
mained at fomc didance from us, with their bows and arrows ready to be
employed ; or at lead, that appeared to be the idea they wifhed to con-
vey to us, by continually fnapping the firings of the former, and the figns
they made to forbid our approach. The Englifli chief, whofe language
they, in fome degree, underftood, endeavoured to remove their diftrufl
of us ; but till I went to them with a prefent of beads, they refufed to
have any communication with us. , .

*' When they firfl perceived our fail, they took us for the Efquimaux
Indians, who employ a fail in their canoes. They were fufpicious of
our defigns, and queftioned us with a view to obtain fome knowledge of
them. On feeing us in poffeffion of fome of the clothes, bows, &c. which
muft have belonged to fome of the Dcguthee Denees, or QuarrcUers,
they imagined, that we had killed fome of them, and were bearing away
the fruits of our vi6lory. They appeared, indeed, to be of the fame

tribe,

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1789.

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE'

tribe, though they were afraid of acknowledging it. From their quef-
tions, it was evident that they had not received any notice of our being
in thofe parts. ^ ^> -

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They would not acknowledge that they had any women with them,
though we had feen them running to the woods ; but pretended that
they had been left at a confiderable diftance from the river, with fome
relations, who were engaged in killing rein-deer. Thefe people had
been here but a fhort time, and their lodge was not yet completed ;
nor had they any fifh in a {late of preparation for their provifion. I
gave them a knife and fome beads for an horn-wedge or chifel, with
which they fplit their canoe-wood. One of my Indians having broken
his paddle, attempted to take one of theirs, which was immediately con-
tefted by its owner, and on my interfering to prevent this a6l of injuftice,
he manifefled his gratitude to me on the occafion. We lod an hour
and a half in this conference. _ , ....... ,.....„.

The Englifti chief was during the whole of the tin.i in the woods,
where Ibme of the hidden property was difcovered, but the women con-
trived to elude the fearch that was made after them. Some of thefe
articles were purloined, but I was ignorant of this circumftance till we
had taken our departure, or I (hould certainly have given an ample re-
muneration. Our chief exprefled his difpleafure at their running away
to conceal themfelves, their property, and their young women, in very
bitter terms. He faid his heart was fet againd thofe flaves ; and com-
plained aloud of his difappointraent in coming fo far witliout feeing the
natives, and getting fomething from them. <| I0 ^tijil mH

1 ' • We

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

We employed the fail and the paddle fince ten this morning, and
pitched our tents at feven in the evening. We had no fooner encamped
th?n we were vifited by an Indian whom we had feen before, and whofc
family was at a fmall diftance up the river: at nine he left us. The
weather was clear and fercne.

-Ik

We embarked this morning at a quarter part three, and at feven we s»turday 15.
pafled the lodge of the Indian who had vifited us the preceding evening.
There appeared to have been more than one family, and we naturally
concluded that our vifitor had made fuch an unfavourable report of us,
as to induce his companions to fly on our approach. Their fire was
not extinguifhed, and they had left a confiderable quantity of fifli feat-
tered about their dwelling. ^*

if ■ TT •

The weather was now very fiiltry ; but the current had relaxed of its
force, fo that the paddle was fufficient for our progrefs during the
greatefl part of the day. The inland part of the country is mountainous
and the banks of the river low, but covered with wood, amon<^ which is
(he poplar, but of fmall growth, and the firft which we had feen on our '
return. A pigeon alfo flew by us, and hares appeared to be in great
plenty. We pafled many Indian encampments which we did not lee in
our palFage down the river. About feven iho fk}-, to the Wcftward, be-
came of a Reel-blue colour, with lightning and thunder. We accord-
ingly landed to prepare ourfclves againfl the cohiing florni ; but before
wc could erect our tents, it came on with fuch vioknuv, that we ex-
pcflrd it to carry every thing before it. Tin- rid<Te-poIe of my tent was
broken in the middle, where it wa<; found, and nine inclu"? and an half in

M cirrnmlcrcnce;

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1780.

Sunday 26.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

circumference ; and we were obliged to throw ourfelves flat on the
ground to efcape being wounded by the ftones that were hurled about
in the air like fand. The violence of the llorm, however, fubfided in a
fhort time, but left the fky overcaft widi the appearance of rain„

It rained from the preceding evening to this morning, when we em-
barked at four o'clock. At eight we landed at three large Indian
lodges. Their inhabitants, who were ' afleep, exprefled uncommon
alarm and agitation when they were awakened by us, though moft of
them had leen us before. Their habitations were crowded with fifh,
hanging to dry in every part; but as we wanted fome for prefent ufe,
we fent their young men to vifit the nets, and they returned with abun?
dance of large white fifh, to which the name has been given of poijfon
inconnu; fome of a round fhape, and green colour; and a few white
ones; all which were very agreeable food. Some beads, and a few other
trifles, were gratefully received in return. Thefe people are very fond
of iron work of any kind, and my men purchafed feveral of their articles
for fmall pieces of tin.

There were five or fix perfons whom we had not feen before; and
among them was a Dog-rib Indian, whom fome private quarrel had
driven from his country. The Engiifh chief underftood him as well as
one of his own nation, and gave the following, account of their con-
vcrfation: — „

He had been informed by the people with whom he now lives, the

Hare Indians, that there Is another river on the other fide of the moun-

. ,,, , ■ ,, tains

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

«»

tains to the South- Weft, which falls into the Belhoullay Toe, or White-
man's Lake, in comparifon of which that on whofe banks we then were, ^
was but a fmall ftream ; that the natives were very largCj and very wicked,
and kill common men with their eyes ; that they make canoes larger
than ours ; that thofe who inhabit the entrance of it kill a kind of beaver,
the fkin of which is almoft red ; and that large canoes often frequent it.
As there is no known communication by water with tiiis river, the na- t
lives who faw it went over the mountains.

'• ^r
As he mentioned that there were fome beavers in this part of the
country, I told him to hunt it, and defire the others to do the fame, as
well as the martens, foxes, beaver-eater or wolvereen, &c. which they
might carry to barter for iron with his own nation, who are fupplied
with goods by us, near their country. He was anxious to know whe-
ther we fhould return that way: at the fame time he informed us that
we fhould fee but few of the natives along the river, as all the young men
were engaged in killing rein-deer, near the Efquimaux Lake, which, he
alfo faid, was at no great diflance. The latter he reprefcnted as very
treacherous, and added, that they had killed one of his people. He told
us likewile, that Ibme plan of revenge was meditating, unlcfs the offend-
ing party paid a fufficient price for the body of the murdered pcrfon.

1789.

'if

My Indians were very anxious to polTefs themfclvcs of a woman that
was with the natives, but as they were not willing to part with her, I
interfered, to prevent her being taken by force : indeed I was obliged to
cxercil'c the utmoft vigilance, as the Indians who accompanied nie were ever
ready to tuke what they could from the nativcK, without making them any

Ma ' return.

V '

f'f.,1 ■' ' 'J

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84 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

'789- return. About twelve we paflcd a river of fome appearance, flowing

V — ^ — ' lYom ilie Eaftwaid. One of the natives who folIoMrcd ug, called it the

Winter Road River. We did not find the flream ftrong today along the

fliore, as there were many eddy currents ; we therefore employed the fail

during fome hours of it, and went on (hore for the night at half paft feven.

Monday 27. The wcaihcr was now fine, and we renewed our voyage at half paft
two. At feven we landed where there were three families, fituated clofe
to the rapids. We found but few people; for as the Indian who fol-
lowed us yellerday had arrived here before us, we fuppofed that the
greater part had flrd, on the intelligence which he gave of our approach.
Some of thefe people we had feen before, when they told us that they had
left their property at a lake in the neighbourhood, and had promifed to
fetch it before our return; but we now found them as unprovided as
when we left thein. They had plenty of fifh, fome of which w^as packed
up in birch bark.

During the time wc remained with them, which was not more than
■• two hours, I endeavoured to obtain fome additional intelligence refpeft-
ing the river which had been mentioned on the preceding day; when they
declared their total ignorance of it, but from the reports of others, as
they had never been beyond the mountains, on the oppofite fide of their
own river : they had, however, been informed that it was larger than that
vhich wafhcd the b ks whereon they lived, and that its courfe was towards
the mid-day fun. I'hey added, that there were people at a fmall dif-
tance up the river, who inhabited the oppofite mountains, and had lately
defcended from them 10 obtain fupplies of fifh. Thefe people, they fiig-

- gelled,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

gefted, muft be well acquainted with the other river, which was the
obje£l of my inquiry. I engaged one of them, by a bribe of fome
beads, to defcribe the circumjacent country upon the fand. This fingular
map he immediately undertook to delineate, and accordingly traced out
a very long point of land between the rivers, though without payiiig the
lea ft attention to their courfes, which he reprefented as running into the
great lake, at the extremity of which, as he had been told by Indians t)f
other nations, there was a BelhouUay Couin, or White Man's Fort.
This I took to be Unalafcha Fort, and conlequently the river to the
Weft to be Cook's River; and that the body of water or fea into which
this river difcharges itfelf at Whale Illand, communicates with Norton
Sound. I made an advantageous proportion to this man to accompany
me acrofs the mountains to the other river, but he refufed it. At
the fame time he recommended me to the people already mentioned,
who were filhing in the neighbourhood, as better qualified to aftift me
in the undertaking which I had propofed.

1789.

One of this fmall company of natives was grievoufly affli£lcd with
ulcers in his back ; and the only attention which was paid to his mifernblc
condition, as far at leaft as we could difcover, proceeded from a woman,
who carefully employed a bunch of feathers in preventing the flivs from
fettling upon his fores.

At ten this morning we landed near the lodges which had already been
mentioned to us, and I ordered my people to make preparation for paffing
the remaining part of the day here, in order to obtain that familiarity
with the natives which might induce them to afford me, without referve, the

. information

■'i:.

ir iA

« f

J i'

1789.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

information that I (hould require from them. This objefl, however,
was in danger of being altog;ether frullrated, by a raifunderftanding that
had taken place between tne natives and my young Indians^ who were
already arrived there. Before the latter could difembark, the former
feized the canoe, and dragged it on fhore, and in this aft of violence the
boat was broken, from the weight of the perfons in it. This infult was
on the point of being ferioufly revenged, when I arrived, to prevent the
confequences of fuch a difpofition. The variation of the compafs was
about twenty-nine degrees to the Eall.

At four in the afternoon I ordered my mtcrpreter to harangue the
natives, ad'embled in council; but his long difcourie obtained little fatif-
faftory intelligence from them. Their account of the river to the Weft-
ward, was fimilar to that which we had already received; and their
defcription of the inhabitants of that country, was flill more abfurd and
ridiculous. They rcprcfcntcd them as being of a gigantic ftature, and
adorned with wings; wiiich, however, they never employed in flying.
That they fed on large birds, which they killed with the greateft eafe,
though common men would be certain vi6lims of their voracity if they
ventured to approach them. They alfo dcfcribcd the people that inha-
bited the mouth of the rive r as poffening the extraordinary power of kill-
ing with their eyes, and devouring a large beaver at a finglemcal. They
added that canoes of very large dimenfions vifited that pLice. They
did not, however, relate thefe Ilrangc circnnftances from their own
knawledge, but on the reports of other tribes, as they themfclves never
ventured to proceed beyond the firft mountains, where they went in
fearch of the fmall white bullulocs, as the inhabitants of the other fide

endeavour

,1 f

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA J

endeavour to kill them whenever they meet. They likewife mentioned
that the fources of th'jfe ftreams which are tributary to both the great
rivers, are feparated by the mountains. It appeared to us, however, that
thefe people knew more about the country than they chofe to commu-
nicate, or at leaft reached me, as the interpreter, who had long been tired
of the voyage, might conceal fuch a part of their communications as, in
in his opinion, would induce me to follow new routes, or extend my
excurfions. No fooner was the conference concluded, than they began
to dance, which is their favourite, and, except jumping, their only amufe-
riient. In this pi.ftime old and young, male and female, continued their
exertions, till their ftrength was exhaufted. This exercife was accom-
panied by loud imitations of the various noifes produced by the rein-
deer, the bear, and the wolf. l t?

1789.

When they had finifhed their antics, I defired the Englifh chief to
renew the former fubjefts ; which he did without fuccefs. I therefore
affumed an angry air, exprefled my fufpicions that they withheld their
information, and concluded with a menace, that if they did not give me
all the fatisfaftion in their power, I would force one of them along with
me to-morroM', to point out the rbad to the other river. On this decla-
ration, they all, at one and the fame moment, became fick, and anfwcred
in a very faint tone, that they knew no more than they had already com-
municated, and that they {houH die if I took any of ihem away. They
began to perfuade my interpreter to remain with them, as ihey loved him
as well as they did themfelves, and that he would be killed if he con-
, linued with me. Nor did this propofition, aided as it was by the folici-
tation of his women, fail of producing a confiderable effcil upon him,
though he endeavoured to conceal it from mc.
' . I now

• ■f '

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

y^9' I now found that it would be fruitlefs for me to expeft any accounts

^— V — ^ of the country, or the other great river, till I got to the river of the Bear
Lake, where I expefted to find fome of the natives, who promifedto wait
for us there. Tliefe people had a6lually mentioned this river to me
when we pafFed them, but I then paid no attention to that circumflance,
as I imagined it to be either a mifunderflanding of my interpreter, or
that it was an invention which, with their other lies, might tend to pre-
vent me from proceeding, down their river.

We were plentifully fupplied with fifli, as well dry as frefh, by thefe
people; they alfo gathered as many whirtle berries as we chofe, for which
we paid with the ufual articles of beads, awlsj knives, and tin. I pur-
chafed a few beaver-fliins of them, which, according to their accounts,
are not very numerous in this country ; and that they do not abound in
moofe-deer and bufaloes. They were alarmed for fome of their young
men, who were killing geei^e higher up the river, and entreated us to do
them no harm. About fun-fet I was under the neceflity of fhooting one
of their dogs, as we could not keep thofe animals from our baggage.
It was in vain that I had remonftrated on thi , fubje6l, fo that I was
obliged to commit the aft which has been juft mentioned. When thele
people heard the report of the pillol, and faw the doji^ ueadi they were
ieized with a very general alarm, and the women took their children on
their backs and ran into the woods. L ordered the caufe of; thi» aft of
fevcrity to be explained, with the affurance that no injury would be
offered to themfelves. The woman, however, to whom the dog belonged,
was very much affefted, and declare<l that the lofs of five children, dur-
ing the preceding winter, had not aHefted hsr fo much as ihe death of

Uiis

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

this animal. But her grief was not of very long duration; and a few
beads, &c. Toon afluaged her forrow. But as they can without difficulty
get rid of their affli6iion, they can with equal eafe alTume it, and feign
ficknefs if it be neceffary with the fame verfatility. When we arrived
this morning, we found the women in tears, from an apprehenlion that
we were come to take them away. To the eye of an European they
certainly were objefts of difguit ; but there were thofe among my party
who obferved fome hidden charms in tiiefe females which rendered them
objefts of defire, and means were found, I believe, that very foon dif-
fipated their alarms and fubdued their coynefs.

1789.

'rmr

On the upper part of the beach, liquorice grew in great abundance
and it was now in bloflbm. I pulled up fome of the roots, which were
large and long; but the natives were ignoran of its qualities, and con-
fidered it as a weed of no ufe or value. . , . ■,.

At four this morning I ordered my people to ^.epare for our depar- TuefdayaS.
ture; and while they were loading the canoe, I went with the Englifh
chief to vifit the lodges, but the greater part of their inhabitants had
quitted them during the night, and thofe that remained pretended fick-
nefs, and refufed to rife. When, however, they were convinced that we
did not mean to take any of them with us, their ficknefs abandoned
them, and when we had embarked, they came forth from their huts, to
defire that we would vifit their nets, which were at a fmall diflance up
the river, and take all the fifh we might find in them. We accordingly
availed ourfeves of this permilFion, and took as many as were neceffary
for our own fupply.

N We

1789.

go JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

We landed ftiortly after where there were two more lodges, which
were full of filh, but without any inhabitants, who were probably with
the natives whom we had jull left. My Indians, in rummaging thefe
places, found feveral articles which they propofed to take ; I therefore
gave beads and awls, to be left as the purchafe of them ; but this
afcl of juftice they were not able to comprehend, as the people them-
felves were not prelent. I took up a net and left a large knife in the
place of it. It was about four fathoms long, and thirty-two meflies in
depth : thefe nets are much more convenient to fet in the eddy current
than our long ones. This is the place that the Indians call a rapid
though we went up it all the way with the paddle ; fo that the current
could not be fo ftrong here, as in many other parts of the river ; indeed
if it were fo, the difficulty of towing would be almoft infuperable, as in
many parts the rocks, which are of a great height and rather projeft
over the water, leave no fhore between them and the ftream. Thefe
precipices abound in fwallows' nefts. The weather was now very
fultry, and at eleven we were under the neceflity of landing to gum our
canoe.

In about an hour we fet forward, and at one in the afternoon,
went on fhore at a fire, which we fuppofed to have been kindled by the
young men, who, as we had been already informed, were hunting geefe.
Our hunters found their canoe and the fowl they had got, fecreted in
the woods ; and foon after, the people themfelves, whom they brought to
the waterfide. Out of two hundred geefe we picked thirty-fix which
were eatable ; the reft were putrid and emitted an horrid ftench. They
had been killed fome time without having been gutted, and in this flats

.ii

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

of loathfome rottennefs, we have every reafon to fuppofe they are eaten
by the natives. We paid for thofe which we had taken, and departed.
At feven in the evening, the weather became cloudy and overcafl: ; at
eight we encamped; at nine, it began to thunder with great violence;
an heavy rain fucceeded, accompanied with an hurricane, that blew down
our tents, and threatened to carry away the canoe, which had been
t'altened to fome trees' with a cod-line. The ftorm lafted two hours and
deluged us with wet. ; *,;::- ^ a t hit-o\ V.^ ^ ; »'• »,; ,i.\; * '

1789.
July-

5 Yefterday the weather was cloudy and the heat infupportable ; and Wednef. 29.

now we could not put on clothes enough to keep us warm. We

embarked at a quarter pad four with an aft wind, which drove us

on at a great rate, though the current is very llrong. At ten we came to

the other ra jid which we got up with the line on the Weft fide, where

we found it much ftronger than when we went down ; the water had

alfo fallen at leaft five feet fince that time, fo that feveral flioals appeared

in the river which we had not feen before. One of my hunters narrowly

efcaped being drowned in crofling a river that falls in from the Weft-

vard, and is the moft confiderable, except the mountain river, that

flows in this dire6tion. We had ftrong Northerly and cold wind

throughout the whole of the day, and took our ftation for the night

at a quarter paft eight. We killed a goofe and caught fome young

ones.

ar*-

j* *'i.^.

iFi » rs*\ % II

iff^X lAlJfi

!iin rtf -iH.i iin hii^i V*; ; 'A?^'

' We renewed our voyage at four this morning after a very rainy night. Thurfdayso.
The weather was cloudy, but the cold had moderated, and the wind was

N 2 North-

^''^^V ■ ' * .*

.[■.■' 4i--'

1789.
July.

92 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

North- Wfc!l. We were enabled to employ the fail during part of the
day, and encamped at about feven in the evening. We killed eleven
old gcefe and forty young ones which ha- juft begun to fly. The Englifli
chief was very much irritated againfl one of his young men : that jealoufy
occafioned this uneafmefs, and that it was not without very fuf-
ficient caufe, was all I could difcover. For the lad two or three days
we had eaten the liquorice root, of which there is great abundance on
the banks of the river. We found it a powerful adringent.

Friday 31. The rain was continual throughout the nif^ht, and did not fubfide till
nine this morning, when we renewed our progrefs. The wind and
weather the fame as yefterday. About three in the afternoon it cleared
up and the wind died away, when it became warm. At five the wind
veered to the Eaft, and brought cold along with it. There were plenty
of whirtle berries, rafpberries, and a berry called Poire, which grows
in the greatefl abundance. V/e were very much impeded in out
way by (hoals of land and fmall ftones, which render the water
(hallow at a diftance from the fhore. In other places the bank of the
river is lofty : it is formed of black earth u^J fand, and, as it is conti-
nually falling, difplayed to us, in fomo parts, a faceof folid ice, to within
a foot of the furface We finifhed this day's voyage at a quarter before
, eight, and in the courfe of it killed feven geefe.

We now had recourfe to our corn, for we had only confumed three
days of our original provifion fince we began to mount the current.
It was my intention to have ofcendcd the river on the South fide from

' the

Xd.

,: <!;

NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

the laft rapid, to difcover if there .vere any rivers of confequence that
flow from the Weftward: but the fand-banks were fo numerous and
the current fo (Irong, that I was compelled to traverfe to the oppofite
fide, where the eddy currents are very frequent, which gave us an oppor-
tunity of fetting our nets and making much inore head-way. . . . , ^ »;

■:h

.-f ^.-. #.^< ..; .. < ^ rftT- 'f-

'% :l.""-

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^-' •'■ n.^^:~^ -, : "<i : 'i,v1" ?'

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<».h'^,i*"1I(»»..:j..

:♦ *' .( . \i

V 1 I

CHAP.

■/r

• J.'

1789.

July.

v«

■ij;fn: I < ):•. ftV '>T?rt. ' .¥0? f?j '\:'.;. .• '.ir

Oi t ;''iU!! 1 ■ I U'j^

I'i

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

•1^*

.•ffe.1

1 7«0.
Saturday i.

,_ ■..CHAPTER VII. '' ^»»AJJ3fu

Voyage continued. SufptB the integrity of the interpreter. Stars vijible.
Springs of mineral watery and lumps of iron ore. Arrive at the river of
the Bear Lake. Coal mine in a fiatt of combufiion. Water of the river
diminijhed. Continue to fee Indian encampm^ntSy and kill geefe, &c.
Hunting excurfons. A canoe found on the edge of a wood. Attempt to
afccnd a mountain. Account of the pajfage to it. See a few of the
natives. Kill a beaver and fome hares. Defgn of the Englijh chief.
Kill a wolf. Changeable Jlate of the weather. Recover the Pemmican,
which had been hidden in an ijland. Natives fly at our approach. Meet
with dogs. Altercation with the Englijh chief. Account of the articles
left by the fugitives. Shoals of the river covered with f aline matter.
Encamp at the mouth of the river of the mountain. The ground on fire
on each fide of it. Continue to fee encampments of the natives. Various
kinds of berries. Kill geefe, fwans, &c. &c. &c. Corroding quality of
the zoater. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance of the Slave Lake,
Dangers encountered on entering it. Caught pike and trout. Met M. Le
Roux on the lake. Further circumflances till our return to Fort Chepe-
wyan. Conclufion of the voyage,

.'iA:fj ■

VV E cnibaikcd at three this morning, the weather being clear and
cold, with the wind at South-Eaft. At three in the afternoon we tra-
verled and landed to take the canoe in tow: here was an encampment

' !

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

of the natives, which we had reafon to fuppofe they had quitted the
preceding day. At five we perceived a family, confifting of a man, two ^
women, and as many children, ftationed by the fide of the water, whom
we had not feen before. They informed us, that they had but few fifti,
and that none of their friends were in the neighbourhood, except the
inhabitants of one lodge on the other fide of the river, and a man who
belonged to them, and who was now occupied in hunting. I now found
my interpreter very unwilling to alkfuch queftions as were diftated to him,
from the apprehenfion, as I invagined, that I might obtain fuch intelli-
gence as would prevent him from feeing Athabafca this feafon. We
left him with the Indian, and pitched our tents at the fame place where
we had pafled the night on the fifth of laft month. The Englifh chief
came along with the Indian to our fire ; and the latter informed us that
the native who went down part of the river with us had pafled there,
and that we fhould meet with three lodges of his tribe above the river of
the Bear Lake. Of the river to the Weftward he knew nothing but
from the relation of others. This was the firfl: night fince our de-
parture from Athabafca, when it was fufficiently dark to render the fiars
vifible. " ' '

1789.

AugulT.

i' jV »

We fet off at three this morning with the towing-line. I walked with Sunday a.
my Indians, as they went fader than the canoe, and particularly as I
fufpefled that they wanted to arrive at the huts of the natives be-
fore me. In our way, I obferved feveral fmall fprings of mineral water
running from the foot of the mountain, and along the beach 1 (iiw feveral
lumps of iron ore. When we came to the river ol the Bear l.akc, I or-
dered one of the young Indians to wait for my canoe, and I took my

place

,' ' i

JH' I

J aM

Augull.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

place in their fmall canoe. This river is about two hundred and fifty
yards broad at this place, the water clear and of a greenilh colour.
When I landed on the oppofite fliore, I difcovered that the natives had
been there very lately from the print of their feet in the fand. We con-
tinued walking till five in the afternoon, when we faw feveral fmokes
along the fiiore. As we naturally concluded, that thele were certain
indications where we Ihould meet the natives who were the obje6ls of our
fearch, we quickened our pace ; but, in our progrefs, experienced a very
fulphurous fmell, and at length difcovered that the whole bank was on
fire for a very confiderable dillan e. It proved to be a coal mine, to
which the tire had communicated from an old Indian encampment.
The beach was covered with coals, and the Englilh chief gathered fome
of the fofteil he could find, as a black dye ; it being the mineral, as he
informed me, with which the natives render their quills black. ^..^ ,.

Here we waited foi the large canoe, which arrived an hour after us.
At half pad ten we law feveral Indian marks, which confifled of pieces of
bark fixed on poles, and pointing to the woods, oppofite to which is an old
beaten road, that bore the marks of being lately frequented ; the beach alfo
was covered with tracks. At a Imall dillance were the poles of five lodges
(landing ; where we landed and unloaded our canoe. I then difputchcd
one of my men and two young Indians to fee if they could find any natives
within a day's march of us. I wanted the Englilh chief to go, but he
pleaded fatigue, and that it would be of no ufe. This was the firft time
he had refufed to comply with my defire, and jcaloufy, I believe, was the
caufe of it in the profent inftance; thou/^h I had taken evrry precaution
tluit he fliould not nave caufe to be jealous of the Canadians. There
>,..j . was

North-west continent of America. 97

was not, at this time, the leaft appearance of fnow on the oppofite Z'^^*
mountains, though they were almofl covered with it when we pafled ^ — — ><— ' -^
before. Set two nets, and at eleven o'clock at night the men and In-
dians returned. They had been to their firft encampment, where
there were four fires, and which had been quitted a (hort time be-
fore ; fo that they were obliged to make the circuit of feveral fmall
lakes, which the natives crofs with their canoes. This encampment was
on the borders of a lake which was too large for them to venture round
it, fo that they did not proceed any further. They faw feveral beavers
and beaver lodges in thole fmall lakes. They killed one of thefe ani-
mals whofe fur began to get long, a fure indication that the fall of the year
approaches. They alfo faw many old tracks of the moofe and rein-deer.
This is the time when the rein-deer leave the plains to come to the
woods, as the mufquitoes begin to difappear; I, therefore, apprehended
that we (hould not find a fingle Indian on the river fide, as they would
be in or about the mountains fetting fnares to take them. ,.

We proceeded with a ftrong •'Vellerly wind, at four this morning, Monday 3.
the weather being cloudy and cold. At twelve it cleared up and
became fine: the current alfo increafed. The water had fallen fo
much fince our paflage down the river, that here, as in other places,
we difcovered many flioals which were not then vifible. We killed
feveral geefe of a larger fize than thofe which we had generally feen.
Several Indian encampments were feen along the river, and we landed
at eight for the night. - 1

'irc

' i I ' i

i > V ,"■^^^ 1

Vii

Kf-'

•!(l

At four in the morning we renewed our courl'e, when it was fine and 1 uciday 4.

'.'■-V ov/; L i,'r »i"[ •;.'*; Uixtl t.i O !)):• »..'.■' ; S.-'Uvh. calm. " '. - ■

■ 'I

:i 'I

98 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Au'\ calm, The night had been cold and a very heavy dew had fallen. At

*^ — V ' nine we were obliged to land in order to gum the canoe, when the

weather became extremely warm. Numerous tracks of rein deer ap-
peared on the fide of the river. At half paft five we took our ftation
for the night, and fet the nets. The current was very ftrong all day,
and wc found it very difficult to walk along the beach, from the large
ftones which were fcatfiered over it. .- . , . ,.» . , ..r.,

: :';■ n ■- . ■■■ ■' '-yi -rrr:T -.in l-- *--':■ ^^^ ' •• " ■■•" '^'-'f-' i *^ ' "*»"'-4 ;•;? \i7>
Wcdnef. 5. We raifed our nets but had not the good fortune to take a fingle fiQi.
The water was now become fo low that the eddy currents would not admit
of fetting them. The current had not relaxed its ftrength ; and the dif-
ficulty of walking along the beach was continued. The air wa? now
become fo cold, that our exercife, violent as it was, fcarce kept us warm.
We pafled fcveral points which we fliould not have accompliftied, if the
canoe had been loaded. We were very much fatigued, and at fix were
glad to conclude our toilfome march. The Indians killed two geefe.
The women who did not quit the canoe, were continually employed in
making (hoes of moofe-ikin, for the men, as a pair did not lad more than

a day.

"> )'(\.i •[ -TMU ) %^'**>:\

nmrfdaye. The rain prevented us from proceeding till half paft fix, when wc
had a ftrong aft wind, which, aided by the paddles, drove us on at a
great rate. We encamped at fix to wait for our Indians, whom we had
not feen fince the morning ; and at half paft fevcn they arrived very
much diftatisfied with their day's journey. Two days had now elapled
fince we had feen the leail appearance of Indian habitations.

>!'-(:-

■» I1 .T

•f ll i I 'J J

> V «.i:faojn '^lil m imVi tA

FuJ»y 7.

We embarked at 1 alf paft three, and foon after perceived two rein-
deer

North-west continent of America.

deer on the beach before us. We accordingly checked our courfe ; but
our Indians, in contending who fhould be the firft to get near thefe ani-
mals, iilarmed and loft them. We, however, killed a female rein-deer,
and from the wounds in her hind-legs, it was fuppofed that Ihe had been
purfued by wolves, who had devoured her young one : her udder was
full of milk, and one of the young Indians poured it among fome foiled
corn, which he ate with great delight, cfteeming it a very delicious
food. At five in the afternoon we faw an animal running along the
beach, but could not determine, whether it was a grey fox or a dog.
In a ftiort time we went afhore for the night, at the entrance of a fmall
liver, as I thought there might be Ibme natives in the vicinity of the
place. I ordered my hunters to put their fuzees in order, and gave
them ammunition to proceed on an hunting party the next day ; they
were alfo inftrufted to difcover if there were any natives in the neigh-
bouring mountains. I found a fmall canoe at the edge of the woods,
which contained a paddle and a bow : it had been repaired this fpring,
and the workmanlhip of the bark excelled any that I had yet feen. We
faw feveral encampments in the courfe of the day. The current of the
river was very ftrong, and along the points equal to rapids. > • i, i.,i,i

Auguft.

The rain was very violent throughout the night, and continued till Saturday 8.
the afternoon of this day, when the weather began to clear, with a
ftrong, cold, ai.d Wefterly wind. At three the Indians proceeded on
the hunting expedition, and at eight they returned without having met
with the leaft fuccefs ; though they faw numerous tracks of the rein-
deer. They came to an old beaten road, which one of them followed
v;'^ ^ O2 for

lOO

1789.

Augult.

Sunday g.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

for fome time ; but it did not appear to have been lately frequented.
The rain now returned and continued till the morning.

. |j-

i*i

♦iWf

We renewed our voyage at half pail three, the weather being cold
and cloudy ; but at ten it became clear and moderate. We faw another
canoe at the outfide of the wood, and one of the Indians killed a dog,
which was in a meagre, emaciated condition. We perceived various
places where the naaves had made their fires ; for thefe people refide
but a (hort time near the river, and remove from one bank to the
other, as it fuits their purpofes. We faw a path which was con-
nefled with another on the oppofite fide of the river. The water had
rifen confiderably fince laft night, and there had been a ftrong current
throughout the day. At feven we made to the fhore and encamped.

Monday 10. At three this morning we returned to our canoe ; the weather fine and
clear, with a light wind from the South-Eaft. The Indians were be-
fore us in purfuit of game. At ten we landed oppofite to the mountains
which we had pafl'ed on the fecond of the lall month, in order to afcer-
tain the variation of the compafs at this place ; but this was accom-
plifhed in a very imperfe6l manner, as I could not depend on my watch.
One of the hunters joined us here, fatigued and unfuccefsful. As thefe
mountains are the laft of any confiderable magnitude on the South- Weft
fide of the river, I ordered my men to crofs to that fide of it, that
I might afcend one of them. It was near four in the afternoon when I
landed, and I loft no time in proceeding to the attainment of my ob-
jeft. I was accompanied only by a young Indian, as the curiofity of

I'^'f

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

my people was fubdued by the fatigue they had undergone; and we
foon had reafbn to believe that we fhould pay dearly for the indulgence
of our own. The wood, which was chiefly of fpruce firs, was fo thick
that it was with great difficulty we made our way through it. When
we had walked upwards of an hour, the under-wood decreafed, while
the white birch and poplar w^ e the largeil and talleft of their kind that
I had ever feen. The ground now began to rife, and was covered
with fmall pines, and at length we got the firft view of the moun-
tains fince we had left the canoe ; as they appeared to be no nearer
to us, though we had been walking for three hours, than when we had
feen them from the river, my companion expreffed a very great anxiety
to return ; his fhoes and leggins were torn to pieces, and he was alarmed
at the idea of paffing through fuch bad roads during the night. I per-
fifted, however, in proceeding, with a determination to pafs the night
on the mountains and return on the morrow. As we approached
them, the ground was quite marfhy, and we waded in water and grafs
up to the knees, till we came within a mile of them, when I fud-
denly funk up to my arm-pits, and it was with fome difficulty that I
extricated myfelf from this difagreeable fituation. I now found it im-
poffible to proceed : to crofs this marfhy ground in a llraight line was
imprafticable ; and it extended fo far to the right and left, that I could
not attempt to make the circuit : I therefore determined to return to the
canoe, and arrived there about midnight, very much fatigued with this
fruitlels journey. .»-k »^ . ■-. »., ,., ... ^»...t , , ., . .,.<

- f

101

1789.

Auguft.

We obferved feveral tracks along the beach, and an encampment at Tuefday u.
the edge of the woods, which appeared to be five or fix days old. We

. fhould

ill

^1 M

< '-HI p."!

ft.

■/.

}02

1781,.
Augu.1.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

(hould have continued our route along this ^ the river, but we had

not Teen our hunters fince yeilerday morning. We accordingly em-
barked before three, and at five traverfed the river, when we law two of
them coming down in fearch of us. They had killed no other animals
than one beaver, and a few hares. According to their account, the
woods were fo thick that it was impoflible to follow the game through
them. They had feen feveral of the natives encampments, at no great
diftance from the river; and it was their opinion that they had difcovered
us in our paflage down it, and had taken care to avoid us ; which
accounted for the fmall number we had feen on our return,
,, ■ , , . . ' . .' , <■ . ■ . ,.>,.. ^- .,■

I requefted the Englifh chief to return with me to the other fide of the
river, in order that he might proceed to difcover the natives, whole
tracks and habitations we had feen there ; but he was backward in comply-
ing with my defire, and propofed to fend the young men ; but I could not
truft to them, and at the fame time was become rather doubtful of him.
They were ftill afraid left I fhould obtain fuch accounts of the other river
as would induce me to travel overland to it, and that they fhould be
called upon to accompany me. I was, indeed, informed by one of my
own people, that the Englifli chief, his wives and companions, had deter-
mined to leave me on this fide of the Slave Lake, in order to go to the
country of the Beaver Indians; and that about the middle of the winter
he would return to that lake, where he had appointed to meet fome of
his relations, who, during the laft fpring, had been engaged in war.

We now traverfed the river, and continued to track the Indians till
paft twelve, when we loA. all traces of them ; in confcquence^ as we ima-
gined,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

103

! ■

gined, of their having crofiTed to the Eaftern fide. We faw feveral a^'^'a
dogs on both ftiores; and one of the young Indians killed a wolf, v— »<,— -*
which the men ate with great fatisfaftion: we fhot, alfo, fifteen
young geefe that were now beginning to fly. It was eight when we
took our evening flation, having loft four hours in making our traverfes.
There was no interruption of the fine weather during the courfe of this
day.

We proceeded on our voyage at three this morning, and difpatched Wednef. 12.
the two young Indians acrofs the river, that we might not mifs any of the
natives that fhould be on the banks of it. We faw many places where
fires had been lately made along the beach, as well as fire running in the
woods. At four we arrived at an encampment which had been left
this morning. Their tracks were obfervable in feveral places in the
woods, and as it might be prefumed that they could not be at any
great diftance, it was propofed to the chief to accompany me in fearch
of them. We accordingly, though with fome hefitation on his part, pene-
trated feveral miles into the woods, but without difcovering the objefts
of our refeirch. The fire had fpread all over the country, and had
burned about three inches of the black, light foil, which covered a body
of cold clay, that was fo hard as not to receive the leaft impreflion of
our feet. At ten we returned from our unfuccefsful excurfion. In the ..
mean time the hunters had killed feven geefe. There were feveral
fhowers of rain, accompanied with gufts of wind and thunder. The
nets had been fet during our abfence.

The nets were taken up, but not one fifli was found in them; and at Thiwrfd. 13.
•S half

■ '

■%n

U:ti

^iO

104

Augult.
» -^

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

half paft three we continued our route, with very favourable weather.
— ' We pafTed feveral places, where fires had been made by the natives, and
many tracks were perceptible along the beach. At feven we were oppo-
fite the ifland where our Pemmican had been concealed : two of the
Indians were accordingly difpatched in fearch of it, and it proved
very acceptable, as it rendered us more independent of the provifions
which were to be obtained by our fowling pieces, and qualified us to
get out of the river without that delay which our hunters would other-
wife have required. In a (hort time we perceived a fmoke on the fhore
to the South- Weft, at thediftance of three leagues, which did not appear
to proceed from any running fire. The Indians, who were a little way
ahead of us, did not difcover them, being engaged in the purfuit of a
flock of geefe, at which th'^y fired feveral {hots, when the fmoke imme-
diately difappeared; and in a ftiort time we faw feveral of the natives
run along the fhore, fome of whom entered their canoes. Though we
were almoft oppofite to them, we could not crofs the river without
going further up it, from the ftrength of the current; I therefore or-
dered our Indians to make every pofiible exertion, in order to fpeak
with them, and wait our arrival. But as foon as our fmall canoe ftruck
off, we could perceive the poor affrighted people haften to the fhore,
and after drawing their canoes on the beach, hurry into the woods. It
was paft ten before we landed at the place where they had deferted their
canoes, which were four in number. They were fo terrified that they
had left feveral articles on the beach. I was very much difpleafed with
my Indians, who inftead of feeking the natives, were dividing their pro-
perty. I rebuked the Englifti chief with fome feverity for his conduft,
and immediately ordered him, his young men, and my own people, to

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

go in fearch of the fugitives, but their fears had made them too nimble
for us, and we could not overtake them. We faw feveral dogs in the
woods, and fome of them followed us to our canoe. . v

The Englifli chief was very much difpleafed at my reproaches, and
expreffed himfelf to me in perfon to that effe6l. This was the very
opportunity which I wanted, to make him acquainted with ray diffatis-
faflion for fome time paft. I ftated to him that I had come a great way,
and at a very confiderable expence, without having obtained the objeft
of my wilhes, and that I fufpefted he had concealed from me a principal
part of what the natives had told him refpefting the country, left he
(hould be obliged to follow me : that his reafon for not killing game, &c.
was his jealoufy, which likewife prevented him from looking after the na-
tives as he ought; and that we had never given him any caufe for any fuf-
picions of us. Thefe fuggeftions irritated him in a very high degree, and he
accufed me of fpeaking ill words to him ; he denied the charge of jealoufy,
and declared that he did not conceal any thing from us ; and that as to
the ill fuccefs of their hunting, it arofe from the nature of the country,
and the fcarcity, which had hitherto appeared, of animals in it. He con-
cluded by informing me that he would not accompany me any further ;
that though he was without ammunition, he could live in the fame man-
ner as the flaves, (the name given to the inhabitants of that part of the
country), and that he would remain among them. His harangue was
fucceeded by a loud and bitter lamentation; and his relations aflifted the
vociferations of his grief; though they faid that their tears flowed for
their dead friends. I did not interrupt their grief for two hours, but as
I could not well do without them, I was at length obliged to footh it, and
ii P induce

105

1789.

Augull.

l^*^H\

Kin

ic6

J 789.

Augufh

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

induce the chief to change his refolution, which he did, but with great
apparent reiudance; when we embarked as we had iiitherto done.

«S.:'!

The articles which the fugitives had left behind them, on the prefent
occafion, were bows, arrows, fnares for moofe and rein-deer, and for
hares ; to thefe may be added a few diflies, made of bark, fome fkins of
the marten and the beaver, and old beaver robes, with a fmall robe
made of the fkin of the lynx. Their canoes were coarfely made of the
bark of the fpruce-fir, and will carry two or three people. I ordered my
men to remove them to the Ihade, and gave moft of the other articles
to the young Indians. The Englifli chief would not accept of any of
them. In the place, and as the purchafe of them, I left fome cloth, Ibme
fmall knives, a file, two fire-fteels, a comb, rings, with beads and awls.
I alfo ordered a marten fkin to be placed on a proper mould, and a bea-
ver fldn to be flretched on a frame, to which I tied a fcraper. The Indians
were of opinion that all thefe articles would be \ol\, as the natives were
fo much frightened that they would never return. Here we loft fix
hours; and on our quitting the place, three of the dogs which I have
already mentioned followed us along the beach.

We pitched our tents at half paft eight, at the entrance of the river
of the mountain ; and while the people were unloading the canoe, I took
a walk along the beach, and on the fhoals, which being uncovered lince
we palfed down, by the finking of the waters, were now white with a
faline fubllance. I font for the Englifh chief to iiip with nie, aiul ■\ dram
or two difpelled ail his heart-burning and difeontent. He informed inc
that it was a cullom with the Chepewyan chiefs to go to war after they
• had

'i'>*.>

107

4789.

Auguft.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA,

had filed tears, in order to wipe away the difgraice attached to fuch a
feminine weaknefs, and that in the cnfuing I'pring he (hould not fail to
execute his ucfign; at the fame time he declared his intention to con- "
tinue with us is long as I fhould want him. I took care that he fhould
carry fome liquid confolation to his lodge, to prevent the return of his
ohagrin. The weather was fine, and the Indians killed three geefe.

At a quarter before four this morning, we returned to our canoe, and Friday 14.
went about two miles up the river of the mountains. Fire was in the
ground on each fide of it. In traverfing, I took foundings, and found
five, four and an half, and three and an half fathoms water. Its dream
was very muddy, and formed a cloudy flrcak along the water of the great
river, on the Weft fide to the Eaftern rapid, where the waters of the two
rivers at length blend in one. It was impolfible not to confider it as an
extraordinary circumftance, that the current of the former river fhould
not incorporate with that of the latter, but flow, as it were, in diftin6l
flreams at fo great a dillance, and till the contradited flate of the channel
unites them. We paffed feveral encampments of the natives, and a river
which flowed in from the North, that had the appearance of being navi-
gable. We concluded our voyage of this day at half paft five in the
afternoon. There were plenty of berries, which my people called poimi :
they are of a purple hue, fomewhat bigger than a pea, and of a lufcious
tallc; there were alfo goofeberrics, and a few Urawbcrrics.

We continued our courfe ft-om three in the morning till half paft five SatiuJ.)y 1,5.
in the afternoon. We faw Icvcral encanipinents along the beach, till it
became too narrow to admit them ; when the banks role into a conlider-
• P 2 able

<, ■ fi ■, ■

♦i- ;

! ."'

' •■ I

(III

!r'.:.

T<9

io8 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

1789' able decree of elevation, and there were more eddy currents. The

Auguft. o » J

^ M ' Indians killed twelve geefe, and berries were collefted in great abund-
ance. The weather was fultry throughout the day. '

Sunday 16. \Ye continued our voyage at a quarter before four, and in five hours
pafled the place where we had been Rationed on the 13th of June. Here
the river widened, and i*^? Ciores became flat. The land on the North
fide is low, compofed of a black foil, mix- ^ with ftones, but agreeably
covered with the afpen, the poplar, the white birch, the fpruce fir, &c.
The current was fo moderate, that we proceeded upon it almoft as faft as
in dead water. At twelve we pafled an encampment of three fires, which
was the only one we faw in the courfe of the day. The weather was the
fame as yefl:erday.

Monday 1 7. We proceeded at half part three ; and faw three fuccefli ve encampments.
From the peculiar flru6lurc of the huts, we imagined that fome of the
Red-Knife Indians had been in this part of the country, though it is not
ufual for them to come this way. I had lall night ordered the young
Indians to precede us, for the purpofe of hunting, and at ten we over-
took them. They had killed five young fwans; and the Englifli chief
prefented us with an eagle, three cranes, a fmall beaver, and two gccfe.
We encamped at i'e\en this evening on the iiime fpot which had been
our relling-place on the 29th of June.

TuddayiS. At four this morning I equipped all the Indians for an hunting ex-
curfion, and fent them onward, as our flock of provifion was nearly cx-
haufled. We followed at half paft fix, and crofled over to the North

fliorr,

109

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

fliore, where the land is low and fcarceiy vihble in the horizon. It n^9'

' Auguft.

was near twelve when we arrived. I now got an obfervation, when it ^■^•^■-^
was 61. 33. North latitude. We were near five miles to the North of
the main channel of the river. The frefh tracks and beds of buffaloes
were very perceptible. Near this place a river flowed in from the Horn
mountains which are at no great diftance. We landed at five in the
afternoon, and before the canoe was unloaded, the Englilh chief arrived
with the tongue of a cow, or female buffalo, when four men and the
Indians were difpatched for the flefh ; but they did not return till it
was dark, with five geefe. They informed me, that they had feen feveral
human tracks in the land on the oppofite ifland. The fine weather
continued without interruption.

The Indians were again fent forward in purfuit of game: and fome Wcdnef. ig.
time being employed in gumming the canoe, we did not embark till half
paft five, and at nine we landed to wait the return of the hunters. I
here found the variation of the compafs to be about twenty degrees
Eait.

The people made themfclves paddles and repaired the canoe. It is
an extraordinary circumflance for which I do not pretend to account,
that there is fome peculiar quality in the water of this river, which cor-
rodes wood, from the dcflru6live eflc^l it had on the paddles. The
hunters arrived at a late hour without having feen any large animals.
Their booty con filled only of ilirec fwans and as many gee'^ The
women were employed in gathering cranberries and crowberries, which
were found in great abundance.

"s^ !'

.'*!

hi) •'

I/I.

1789.

Auguft.

' V- '

1 liui Iday 20.

1 10 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

We embarked at four o'clock, and took the North fide of the channel,
though the current was on that fide much ftronger, in order to take a
view of the river, which had been mentioned to me in our palTage down-
wards, as flowing from the country of the Beaver Indians, and which
fell in hereabouts. We could not, however, difcover it, and it is pro-
bable that the account was referable to the river which we had palfed on
Tuefday. The current was very ftroug, and we crofled over to an ifland
oppofite to us ; here it was dill more impetuous, and affumed the hurry
of a rapid. We found an awl and a paddle on the fide of the water ;
the former we knew to belong to the Kniflineaux : I fuppofed it to be
the chief Merde-d'ours and his party, who went to war lal^ fpring, and
had taken this route on their return to Athabafca. Nor is it improba-
ble that they may have been the caufe that we faw fo few of the natives
on the banks of this river. The weather was raw and cloudy, and formed
a very unpleafant contrail to the warm, funny days which immediately
preceded it. We took up our abode for the night at half paft fcven, on
the Northern ftiore, where the adjacent country is both low and flat-
The Indians killed five young fwans, and a beaver. There was an ap-
pearance of rain.

Friday 21. The wcathcr was cold, with a flrong Eadeily wind and frequent
fhowers, fo that we were detained in our ftation. In the afternoon the
Indians got on the track of u mooP'-dccr, bi i were not fo fortunate as
to overtake it.

Saturday ■«. The wind veered round to the Weftward, and continued to blow
Urong and cold. We, however, renewed our voyage, and, in three

hours

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. in

hours reached the entrance of the Slave Lake, under half fail ; with the ,^789.

Auguit.

paddle, '\i would have taken us at leaft eight hours. The Indians did '— - v -^
not arrive till four hours after us; but the wind was fo violent, that it
was not expedient to venture into the lake ; we therefore fet a net and
encamped for the night. The women gathered large quantities of the
fruit, already mentioned, called Pathagomenan, and cranberries, crow-
berries, moofeberries, &c. The Indians killed two fwans and three geefe.

The net produced but five fmall pike, and at five we embarked, and Sunday 23.
entered the lake by the lame channel through which we had paffed from
it. The South-Weft fide would have been the Ihorteft, but we were not
certain of there being plenty of fifh along the coaft, and we were fure
of finding abundance of them in the courfe we preferred. Befides,
I expefted to find my people at the place where Heft them, as they had
received orders to remain there till the fall.

We paddled a long way into a deep bay to get the wind, and having
left our maft behind us, we landed to cut another. We then hoifted fail
and were driven on at a great rate. At twelve the wind and fwell were
augmented to fuch a degree, that our under yard broke, but luckily the
maft thwart refilled, till we had time to fallen down the yard with a
pole, without lowering lail. We took in a large quantity of water, and
had our maft given way, in all probability, we fhould have filled and
funk. Our courlc continued to be very daiigcrous, along a Hat lee-
Ihore, without being able to land till three in the afternoon. Two men
were continually employed in bailing out the water which we took in
on all fides. We fortunately doubled a point that fcrecncd us from the

wind

■m

, ■ u

i I . ;•

1}.', f '1,

112 * JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

1789. ^'ind and fwell, and encamped for the night, in order to wait for our

* V — ' Indians. We then fet our nets, made a yard and maft, and gummed the

canoe. On vifiting the nets, we found fix white fi{h, and two pike.
The women gathered cranberries and crowberries in great plenty ; and
as the night came on the weather became more moderate.

if"

Monday 24. Our ncts this moming produced fourteen white fi(h, ten pikes, and a
couple of trouts. At five we embarked with a light breeze from the
South, when we hoilted fail, and proceeded flowly, as our Indians had not
come up with us. At eleven we went on fhore to prepare the kettle, and
dry the nets ; at one we were again on the water. At four in the after-
noon we perceived a large canoe with a fail, and two fmall ones ahead ;
w£ foon came up with them, when they proved to be M. Le Roux and an
Indian, with his fiimily, who were on an hunting party, and had been out
twenty five days. It was his intention to have gone as far as the river, to
leave a letter for me, to inform me of his fituation. He had feen no
more Indians where I had left him ; but had made a voyage to Lac la
Marte, where he met eighteen fmall canoes of the Slave Indians, from
whom he obtained five packs of fkins, which were principally thofe of
the marten. There were four Beaver Indians among them, who had
bartered the greateft part of the abovementioncd articles with them, be-
fore his arrival, l^hey informed him that their relations had more
ikins, but that they were afraid to venture with them, though they had
been informed that people were to come with goods to barter for them.
He gave thefc people a pair of ice chifels each, and other articles, and
lent them away to condu£l their friends to the Slave Lake, where he
was to remain during the fucceeding winter. . ' . ', ' '

.M.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. '

We fet three nets, and in a fhort time caught twenty fifh of different n^9'

' . . Auguft.

kinds. In the dufk of the evening the Englifh chief arrived with a moft * — v — '
pitiful account that he had Hke to have been drowned in trying to follow
US; and that the other men had alfo a very narrow efcape. Their canoe,
he faid, had broken on the fwell, at fome diftance from the fliore, but as
it was flat, they had with his affiftance been able to fave thcmfelves. He
added, that he left them lamentmg, left they fliould not overtake me, if
I did not wait for them : he alfo exprelfed his apprehenfions that they
would not be able to repair their canoe. This evening I gave my men
fome rum to cheer them after their fatigues.

We rofe this morning at a late hour, when we vifited the nets, which Tuefday 25.
produced but few fifh : my people, indeed, partook of the ftores of
M. Le Roux. At eleven the young Indians arrived, and reproached me
for having left them fo far behind. They had killed two fwans, and
brought me one of them. The wind was Southerly throughout the day,
and too ftrong for us to depart, as we were at the foot of a grar 1 tra-
verfe. At noon I had an obfervation, which gave 61. 29. North lati-
tude. Such was the ftate of the weather, that we could not vifit our
nets. In the afternoon the fky darkened, and there was lightning, ac-
companied with loud claps of thunder. The wind alfo veered round to
the Wellward, and blew an hurricane. ' ■ , ; t ft

It rained throughout the night, and till eight in the morning, without vvc
any alteration in the wind. The Indians went on an hunting exeurfion,
but returned altogether witttbUt fuccefs in the evening. One of them
was fo unfortunate as to mifs a moofe-deer. In the afternoon there were
hcavj^ fhowers, with thunder, Sec.

Q Wc

diicf, 26.

J "'•'■'■.ti

&'*: ,■*:

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1,789.

Augult.
Tliuila, 27.

ti4 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

We embarked before four, and hoifted fail. At nine we landed to
drefs vitluvils, and wait for M. Le Roux and the Indians. At eleven we
proceeded with fine and calm weather. At four in the afternoon a, light
breeze fprang up to the Southward, to which we fpread our fail, ai>d at
half pafl five in the afternoon went on fhore for the night. We then
fet our nets. The Englifh chief and his people being quite exhauUed
with fatigue, he this morning exprefled his defire to yemain behind, in
order to proceed to the country of the Beaver Indians, engaging at the
iame time that he would return to Athabafca in the courfe of the winter.

Friday 28. It blew vcry hard throughout the night, and this morning, fo that we
.p found it a bufinefs of fome diHicuIty to get to our nets; our trouble,

however, was repaid by a confiderable quantity of white fifh^tfout, &g.
Towards the afternoon the wind increafed. Two of the men who had
been gathering berries faw two moofedeer, with the tracks of huffj^locs
and rein-deer. About fun-fet we heard two (hots, and faw a fire on the
oppofite fide of the bay ; we accordingly made a large fire aifo, thati our
pofition might be determined. When we were all gone to bed, we heard
the report of a gun very near us, and in a very (hort time the EngliQai
chief prefented himfelf drenched with wet, and ia much appiu'ent
confufion informed me that the canoe with his companions wa^
broken to pieces ; and that they had loft their fowling* pieces, and
the flefh of a rein-deer, which they had killed this morning. They
were, he faid, atu very ffaort diftarace from us; and at the fame time
requefted that fire might be fent to them, as they were ftarving with,
cold. They and his women, however, fooa joined m, and were iinnii0>-
diately acoommodated with, dry cIlotke».

•; iKl^-il: iljin

>:j Wi.

Iftnt

•r

I rent

NORTH-WEST CONtlKfiNt 6t AMERICA. I15

I fent the Indians on ah hunting patty, but they returned without fuc*- *785.
cefs ; and they exprefled their determination not to folloW me any further, ^ — v^*— >
from their apprehenfion of being drowned.

We embarked at one this morning, and took from the nets a large trdUt, Sunday 30.
and twenty white fi(h. At fun-rif6 a fmart aft breeze fprang up, which
wafted us to M. Le Roux's houfe by two in the afternoon. It was late
before he and our Indians arrived; when, according to a promife which
I had made the latter, I gave them a plentiful equipment of iron ware,
ammunition, tobacco, &c. as a recompence for the toil and inconveni-
ence they had fuflained with rae.

I propofed to the Englifh chief to proceed to the country of th*
Beaver Indians, and bring them to difpofe of their peltries to M Le
Roux, whom I intended to leave there the enfuing winter. He had
already engaged to be at Athabafca, in the month of March next,

with plenty of furs.

■ ■ ■ -; . ■ ■ - ■=' '■■■ ■■""/ ;':'•■. X y :■ ^- ■ ... 'i-'n^;; \"--*'

I fat up all night to make the neceffary arrangements for the embarka- M'^"'!-*/ a*-
tion of this morning, and to prepare inftruflions for M. Le Roux. We
obtained fome provifions here, and parted from him at five, with fine calm
weather. It foon, however, became necefl'ary to land on a fmall ifland, to
flop the leakage of the canoe, which had been occafioncd by the (hot of an
arrow under the water mark, by fome Indian children. While this bufinefs
was proceeding, we took the opportunity of drefling fome fifh. At twelve
the wind fprang up from the South-Eaft, which was in the teeth of our
diredion, fo that our progrefs was greatly impeded. I had an obfervation,
'''■ ' Q 2 which

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JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Se*tl^*L. ^^'*^^ S^^'^ ^2. 15. North latitude. We landed at feven in the evening,
^^-r^^—-^ and pitched our tents.

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Tuefday 1. We continucd our voyage at five in the morning, the weather calm
. / b .. and fine, and pafled the Ifle a la Cache about twelve, but could not per-
ceive the land, which was feen in our former paflage. On pafling the
Carreboeuf Iflands, at five in the afternoon, we faw land to the South by
Weft, which we thought was the oppofite fide of the lake, ftretching
away to a great diftance. We landed at half paft fix in the evening,
when there was thunder, and an appearance of change in the weather.

■•/-,-■ 7 »■ - ^

*-'■*■■ - - • .J

Wednef. 2. It rained and blew hard the latter part of the night. At half paft five
the rain fubfided, when we made a traverfe of twelve miles, and took in
a good deal f water. At twelve it became calm, when I had an
obfervation, which gave 61. 36. North latitude. At three in the after-
noon there was a flight breeze from the Weftward, which foon increafed,
when we hoifted fail, and took a traverfe of twenty-four miles for the
point of the old Fort, where we arrived at feven and ftopped for the

'„ night. This traverfe ftiortened our way three leagues; indeed we did

not e?cpe6l to have cleared the lake in fuch a fliort time. v. , .

TiiuiRlay 3. It blew with great violence throughout the night, and at four in the
morning we embarked, when we did not make more than five miles in
three hours without flopping ; notwilhftanding we were flieltered from
tlie fwell by a long bank. We now entered the fmall river, where
the wind could have no effe£l upon us. There were frequent fiiowers in
the courfe of the day, and we encamped at fix in the evening, -c. >Vi;:!
■ ,■ . - . * ' The

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA;

The morning was dark and cloudy, neverthelefs we embarked at five;
but at ten it cleared up. We faw a few fowl, and at feven in the even-
ing went on (hore for the night. ■ . ,

11/

September.
Friday 4.

The weather continued to be cloudy. At five we proceeded, and at Saturday 5.
eight it began to rain very hard. In about half an hour we put to
fhore, and were detained for the remaining part of the day.

It rained throughout the night, with a ftrong North wind. Numerous Sunday 6.
flocks of wild fowl paffed to the Southward ; at fix in the afternoon, the
rain, in fome meafure, fubfided, and we embarked, but it foon returned
with renewed violence ; we neverthelefs took the advantage of an aft
wind, though it coil us a complete drenching. The hunters killed feven
geefe, and we pitched our tents at half paft fix in the evening.

We were on the water at five this morning, with an head-wind, ac- Monday 7.
companied by fucceflive fhowers. At three in the afternoon we ran the
canoe on a (lump, and it filled with water before Ihe could be got to
land. Two hours were employed in repairing her, and at feven in the
evening we took our llation for the niglit.

We renewed our voyage at half paft four in a thick mift which lafted Tuefday 8.
till nine, when it cleared away, and fine weather fuccceded. At three
in the afternoon we came to the firil carrying-place, Portage des Noyes,
and encamped at the upper end of it to dry our clothes, fonie of which
were almod rotten.

' U

li8

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

17*9.

September.
Wednel. 9.

We embarked at five in the morning, and our canoe was damaged
on the mens' fhoulders who were bearing it over the carrying-place,
called Portage du Chetique. The guide repaired her, however,
while the other men were employed in carrying the baggage. The
canoe was gummed at the carrying-place, named the Portage de la Mon-
tague. After having pafled the carrying places, we encamped at the
Dog River, at half paft four in the afternoon, in a ftate of great fatigue.
The canoe was again gummed, and paddles were made to replace thofe
that had been broken in afcending the rapids. A fwan was the only
animal we killed throughout the day.

Thuriaayio. There was rain and violent wind during the night: in the morn-
ing the former fubfided and the latter increafed. At half paft five
we continued our courfe with a North-Wefterly wina. At feven we
hoifted fail : in the forenoon there were frequent fhowers of rain
•', and hail, and in the afternoon two fhowers of fnow ; the wind was at

this time very ftrong, and at fix in the evening "" landed at a lodge
of Knifteneaux, confifting of three men and five women and children.
They were on their return from war, and one of them was very fick :
they feparated from the reft of their party in the enemy's country, from
abfolute hunger. After this feparation, they met with a family of the
hoftile tribe, whom they deftroyed. They were entirely ignorant of the
fate of their triends, but imagined, that they had returned to the Peace
River, or had perifhed for want of food. I gave medicine to the fick,*

... and

• This man had conceived an idw, that the people with whom he had been at wa», had thrown
medicine at him, which had caufed his prefent complaint, and that he defpaired of recovery. The
nati\cs arc fo fuperflilious, that this idea alone was fufficient to kill him. Of this weaknefs 1 took ad-
vantage ',

x\ORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 1 19

and a ftnall portion of ammunition to the healthy; which, indeed, they ^i^'

very much wanted, as they had entirely Hved for the lafl: fix months on ' — v '

the produce of their bows and arrows. They appeared to have been
great fuffcrers by their expedition.

It froze hard during the night, and was very cold throughout the Friday u,
day, with an appearance of fnow. We embarked at half paft four in
the morning, and continued our courfe till fix in the evening, when
we landed for the night at our encampment of the third of June.

The weather was cloudy and alfo very cold. At eight we era- Saturday ta,
barked with a North-Eaft wind, and entered the Lake of the Hills.
About ten, the wind veered to the Weflward, and was as ftrong as we
could bear it with the high fail, fo that we arrived at Chepewyan fort by
three o'clock in the afternoon, where we found Mr. Macleod, with five
men, bufily employed in building a new houfe. Here, then, we con-
cluded this voyage, which had occupied the, confiderable fpace of one
hundred and two days.

vantage; and affured him, that if he would never more go to war with fuch poor defencelels people,

that I would cure him. To this propofition he readily confented, and on my giving him medicine,

which confided of Turlington's balfam, mixed in water, I declared, that it would lol'e its efk&, if he

was not fincere in the promife that he made me. In ihort, he a£lually recovered, was true to his •

engagements, and on all occafions manifefted his gratitude to me.

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JOURNAL

OF A

SECOND VOYAGE, &c.

CHAPTER I.

havi Fort Chepevy^an. Proceed to the Peace River, State of the Lakes,
Arrive at Peace Point. The reafon ajjignedfor its name. The weather
cold. At I 've at the Falls, Defcription of the country. Land at the

■ Fort, called The Old EJlabliJliment, The principal building dejlroycd by
fire. Courfe of the river. Arrive at another fort. Some account of the
natives. Depart from thence. Courfe of the river continued. It divides
into two branches. Proceed along the principal one. Land at the place
of our rmiter's refulence. Account of its circumjlances and inliabitants,
&c. Preparations for ereSling a fort, &c. &c. Table of the weather,

, Broke the thermometer. Froji/cts in. Defcription of birds. ■ ,

1 \h

JriAVING made every nccelTary preparation, I left Fort Chepewyan, oaoi'
to proceed up tlie Peace River. I had refolvcd to go as far as our mofl.
diUant i'cttlemeni:, \\hiv;h would occupy the remaining part of the fcafun,

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122

1 70?..
Oaober.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

it being the route by which I propofed to attempt rny next difcovery,
acrofs the mountains from the fource of that river ; for whatever diftance
I could reach this fall, would be a proportionate advancement of my
voyage.

r i

In confequence of this defign, I left the cRablifhrnent of Fort Chepe-
wyan, in charge of Mr. Roderic Mackenzie, accompanied by two canoes
laden with the neceffary articles for trade : we accordingly fleered Weft
for one of the branches that communicates with the Peace River, called
the Pine River ; at the entrance of which we waited for the other canoes,
in order to take fome fupplies from them, as I had reafon to apprehend
they would not be able to keep up with us. We entered the Peace
River at feven in the morning of the 12th, taking a Weflerly courfe.
It is evident, that all the land between it and the Lake of the Hills,
as far as the Elk River, is formed by the quantity of earth and mud,
which is carried down by the ftreams of thofe two great rivers. In this
fpace there are feveral lakes. The lake. Clear Water, which is the deepeft,
Lake VafiTicu, and the Athabafca Lake, ""/hich is the largcfl; of the three,
and whofe denomination in the Kniftineaux language, implies, a flat
low, fwampy country, fubjeft to inundations. The two lafl; lakes are
row To {hallow, that, from the caufe jufl: mentioned, there is every
reafon to expe£l, that in a few years, they will have exchanged their
charaQcr and become cxtenfivc forells.

This country is fb level, that, at fome feafons, it is entirely overflowed,
which accounts for the periodictd influx and reflux of the waters between
the Lake of the Hills and the Peace Rivcr» '

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

On the 13th at noon we came to the Peace Point; from which, ac-
cording to the report of my interpreter, the river derives its name ; it ""
was the fpot where the Knifteneaux and Beaver Indians fettled their dif-
pute ; the real name of the river and point being that of the land which
was the objeft of contention.

"When this country was formerly invaded by the Knirteneaux, they
found the Beaver Indians inhabiting the land about Portage la Loche ;
and the adjoining tribe were thofe whom they called (laves. They drove
both thefe tribes before them ; when the latter proceeded down the
river from the Lake of the Hills, in confequence of which that part of
it obtained the name of the Slave River. The former proceeded up the
river ; and when the Knifteneaux made peace with them, this place was
fettled to be the boundary.

, ' . f .

We continued our voyage, and I did not fmd the current fo flrong in

this river as I had been induced to believe, though this, perhaps, was

not the period to form a correal notion of that circumftance, as well as

*
of the breadth, the water being very low ; fo that the ftream has not

appeared to me to be in any part that I have Iccn, more than a quarter

ofamlewide.

The weather was cold and raw, fo as to render our progrcfs unplea-
fiint ; at the fame time we did not relax in our expedition, and, at three
on the afternoon of the 1 yth we arrived at the falls. The river at this
place is about four hundred yards broad, and the fall about twenty feet
high : the firll carrying place is eight hundred paces in length, arid the

R2 lad.

123

1792.

Ottobcr.

;< .'ci

124

Oaobcr.

JOURxNf AL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

laft, which is about a mile onwards, is fomething more than two thirds of
that diftance. Here we found feveral fires, from which circuraftance we
concluded, that the canoes deftined for this quarter, which left the fort
fome days before us, could not be far a-head. The weather cont'nued
to be very cold, and the fnow that fell during the night w?;» feveral
inches deep.

On the morning of the i8th, as foon as we got out of the draught of the
fall, the wind being at North-Eaft, and ftrong .n our favour, we hoifted
fail, which carried us on at a confiderable rate againll the current, and
paffed the Loon River before twelve o'clock; from thence we foon came
along the Grande lile, at the upper end of which we encamped for the
night. It no;v froze very hard : indeed, it had fo much the appearance of
winter, that I bcgjn to entertain fome alarm left we might be flopped by
the ice : we therefore fet off at three o'clock in the morning of the 19th,
and about eight we landed at the Old Eftablifhment.

The paffagc to this place from Athabafca having been furveyed by
M. Vandrieul, formerly in the Company's fervice, I did not think it ne-
ceflary to give any particular attention to it ; I fhall, however, juft ob-
ferve, that the courle in general from the Lake of the Hills to the falls,
is Wefterly, and as much to the North as the South of it, from thence,
it is about Weft-South- Weft to this fort.

The country in general is low from our entrance of the river to
the falls, and with the exception of a few open parts covered with
grafs, it is clothed with wood. Where the banks are very low

the

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

the foil is good, being compofed of the fedimerit of the river and
putrefied leaves and vegetables. Where they are more elevated,
they difplay a face of yellowifh clay, mixed with fmall ftones. On a
line with the falls, and on either fide of the river, there are faid to be very
extenfive plains, which aflPord paflure to numerous herds of buffaloes.
Our people a-head flept here lalt night, and, from their careleflnefs, the
fire was communicated to and burned down, the large houfe, and was
proceeding faft to the fmaller buildings when we arrived to extinguilh it.

, We continued our voyage, the courfe of the river being South-Wefl
by Weft one mile and a quarter. South by Eaft one mile, South- Weft by
South three miles, Weft by South one mile, South-South-Weft two
luiles. South four miles. South- Weft feven miles and an half, South by
Weft one mile, North-North- Weft two miles and an half. South five
miles and a quarter, South- Weft one mile and an half, North-Eaft by
Eaft three miles and an half, and South-Eaft by Eaft one mile.

We overtook Mr. Finlay, with his canoes, who was encamped near-
the fort of which he was going to take the charge, during the enfuing
winter, and made every neccffary preparative for a becoming appear-
ance on our arrival the following morning. Although I had been fince
the year 1787 in the Athabafca country, I had never yet feen a fingle
native of that part of it which we had now reached.

At fix o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we landed before the houfe
amidft the rejoicing and firing of the people, who were animated with the
profpe£l of again indulging themfelvcs in the luxury of rum, of which

they

125

1792.

Cttober.

•5 1 , M>

.11 \

126

1792.

Otiobtr,

V —

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

they had been deprived fince the beginning of May ; as it is a prac-
tice throughout the North-Weft, neither to fell or give any rum to
the natives during the fummer. There was at this time only one chief
with his people, the other two being hourly expeftcd with their bands ;
and on the 21ft and 22d they all arrived except the war chief and
fifteen men. As they very foon expreded their defire of the expcft-
ed regale, I called them together, to the number of forty-two hunters,
or men capable of bearing arm?-, to offer fome advice, which would
be equally advantageous to them and to us, and I ftrcngthened my
admonition with a nine gallon cafk of reduced rum and a quantity of
tobacco. At the fame time I obferved, that as I fhould not often vifit
them, 1 had inftanced a greater degree of liberality than they had been
accuftomed to.

The number of people belonging to this eftablifhment amounts to about
three hundred, of which, fixty are hunters. Although they appear from
their language to be of the fame (lock as the Chepcwyans, they differ
from them in appearance, manners, and cuftoms, as they have adopted
thofe of their former enemies, the Knifteneaux : they fpeak their lan-
guage, as well as cut their hair, paint, and drels like them, and pofTefs
their immoderate fondncfs for liquor and tooacco. This defcription,
however, can be applied only to the men, as the women are lefs
adorned even than thofe of the Chepewyan tribes. We could not ob-
ferve, without fome degree of furprize, the contrail between the neat and
decent appearance of the men, and the naftinefs of the women. I am
difpofed, however, to think that this circumftance is generally owing to
the cxticme fubmiffion and abafement of the latter : for I obferved, that

one

NOR rH.WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

127

one of the chiefs allowed two of his wives more liberty and familiarity ^19^-

■' ' Oftnber.

than were accorded to the others, as well as a more becoming exterior, v— y—
and their appearance was proportionably pleafing. I fliall, however,
take a future opportunity to fpeak more at large on this fubjeft.

There were frequent changes of the weather in the courfe of the
day, and it froze rather hard in the night. The thicknefs of the ice in
the morning was a fufficient notice for me to proceed. I accordingly
gave the natives fuch good counfel as might influence their behaviour,
communicated my direftions to Mr. Findlay for his future condud, and
took my leave under feveral voUies of mufl^etry, on the morning of the 23d.
I had already difpatched my loaded canoes two days before, with direflions
to continue their progrefs without waiting for me. Our courfe was South-
South-Eaft one mile and an half. South three quarters; Eaft feven miles
and an half, veering gradually to the Weft four miles and an half.
South-Eafl; by South three miles, South-Eaft three miles and an half,
Eafl-South-Eafl to Long Point three miles, South- Weft one mile and
a quarter, Eaft by North four miles and three quarters. Weft three miles
and an half, Weft-South- Weft one mile, Eaft by South five miles and
and an half, South three miles and three quarters, South-Eaft by South
three miles, Eaft-South-Eaft three miles, Eaft-North-Eaft one mile, when
there was a river that flowed in on the right, Eaft two miles and an half,
Eaft-South-Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft by South levcn miles and an
half. South two miles, Soutli-South-Eaft three miles and an half; in the
courie of which we pafTed an ifland South by Well, where a rivulet
flowed in on the right, one mile, Eaft one mile and an half", South five
miles, South-Eaft by South four miles and an half, Soulh-Wcft one
. ,?' mile

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128

179=.
Oaobcr.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

mile, South-Eaft by Eaft four miles and an half, Weft- South- Weft half
a mile, South- Weft fix miles and three quarters, South-Eaft by South one
mile and an half, South one mile and an half, South-Eaft by South two
miles, South-Weft three quarters of a mile, South-Eaft by South two
miles and an half, Eaft by South one mile and three quarters, South
two miles, South-Eaft one mile and an half, South-South-Eaft half a
mile, Eaft by South two miles and an half, North-Eaft three miles,
South- Weft by Weft ftiort diftance to the eftabliftiment of laft year, Eaft-
North-Eaft four miles, South-South-Eaft one mile and three quarters,
South half a mile, South-Eaft by South three quarters of a mile, North-
Eaft by Eaft one mile. South three miles, South-South-Eaft one mile
and three quarters, South by Eaft four miles and an half. South- Weft
three miles, South by Eaft two miles, South by Weft one mile and an
half, South-Weft two miles, South by Weft four miles and an half.
South- Weft one mile and an half, and South by Eaft three miles. Here
we arrived at the forks of the river ; the Eaftern branch appearing to be
not more than half the fize of the Weftern one. We purfued the latter,
in a courfe South- Weft by Weft fix miles, and landed on the firft of
November at the place which was defigned to be my winter refidence :
indeed, the weather had been fo cold and difagreeable, that I was more
than once apprehenfive of our being ftopped by the ice, and, after all,
it required the utmoft exertions of which my men were capable to pre-
vent it; fo that on their arrival they were quite exhaufted. Nor were
their labours at an end, for there was not a fingle hut to receive us : it
was, however, now in my power to feed and fuftain them in a more
comfortable manner.

' NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

We found two men here who had been fent forward laft fpring, for
the purpofe of fquaring timber for the ere6lion of an houfe, and cut-
ting palHfades, &c. to furround it. With them was the principal chief
of the place, and about feventy men, who had been anxioufly waiting
for our arrival, and received us with every mark of fatisfaftion and re-
gard which they could exprefs. If we might judge from the quantity of
powder that was wafted on our arrival, they certainly had not been in
want of ammunition, at leaft during the fummer.

The banks of the river, from the falls, are in general lofty, except at
low woody points, accidentally formed in the manner I have already men-
tioned : they alfo difplayed, in all their broken parts, a face of clay, inter-
mixed with ftone ; in fome places there likewife appeared a black mould.

129

1792.

December.

r ,_

In the fummer of 1788, a fmall fpot was cleared at the Old Eftablifti-
ment, which is fituated on a bank thirty feet above the level of the river,
and was fown with turnips, carrots, and parfnips. The firft grew to a
large fize, and the others thrived very well. An experiment was alfo
made with potatoes and cabbages, the former of which were fuccefsful ;
but for want of care the latter failed. The next winter the perfon who
had undertaken this cultivation, fuffered the potatoes, which had been col-
lefted for feed, to catch the froft, and none had been fince brought to
this place. There is not the leaft doubt but the foil would be very pro-
duftive, if a proper attention was given to its preparation. In the fall of
the year 1787, when I firft arrived at Athabafca, Mr. Pond was
fettled on the banks of the Elk River, where he remained for three years,
and had formed as fine a kitchen garden as I ever faw in Canada.

S In

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130

1792-
December.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

In addition to the wood which flouriftied below the fall, theie banks
produce the cyprefs tree, arrow-wood, and the thorn. On either fide of
the river, though invifibie from it, are extenfive plains, which abound in
buffaloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. At a confiderable dillance to
the Weflward, is an immenfe ridge of high land or mountains, which take
an oblique direftion from below the falls, and are inhabited by great
(numbers of deer, who are feldom difturbed, but when the Indians go to
hunt the beaver in thofe parts; and, being tired of the flefh of the latter,
vary their food with that of the former. This ridge bears the name of
the Deer Mountain. Oppofite to our prefent fituation, are beautiful
meadows, with various animals grazing on them, and groves of poplars
irregularly fcattered over them. > . • ■ '

My tent was no fooner pitched, than I fummoned the Indians toge-
ther, and gave each of them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a dram
of fpirits, and lighted the pipe. As they had been very troublefome to
my predeceffor, I informed them that I had heard of their mifcondu6l, and
was come among them to inquire into the truth of it. I added alfo that
it would be an eltablifhed rule with me to treat them with kindnefs,
if their behaviour fhould be fuch as to deferve it ; but, at the fame time,
that I ftiould be equally fevere if they failed in thofe returns which I had
a right to expe6l from them. I then prefented them with a quantity of
rum, which I recommended to be ufed with difcretion ; and added fome
tobacco, as a token ot peace. They, in return, made me the faired
promifos; and, having cxpreffed the pride they felt on beholding me in
their country, took their leave. i

I now

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

131

I now proceeded to examine my fituation; and it was witli great
latisfaftion I obferved that the two men who had been fent hither fome
time before us, to cut and fquare timber for our future operations, had
employed the intervening period with a6livity and fkill. They had
formed a fufficient quantity of pallifades of eighteen feet long, and feven
inches in diameter, to inclofe a fquare fpot of an hundred and twenty
feet; they had alfo dug a ditch of three feet deep to receive them; and
had prepared timber, planks, &c. for the ereftion of an houfe.

179a.

December.

I was, however, fo much occupied in fettling matters with the Indians,
and equipping them for their winter hunting, that I could not give my
attention to any other objeft, till the 7th, when I fet all hands at work to
conftruft the fort, build the houfe, and form Itore-houfes. On the pre-
ceding day the river began to run with ice, which we call the lad of the
navigation. On the nth we had a South-Weft wind, with fnow. On
the 1 6th the ice ftopped in the other fork, which was not above a league
from us, acrofs the intervening neck of land. The water in this branch
continued to flow till the 22d, when it was arrefted alfo by the froft, fo
that we had a paffage acrofs the river, which would laft to the latter end
of the fucceeding April. This was a fortunate circumllance, as we de-
pended for our fupport upon what the hunters could provide for us, and
they had been prevented by the running of the ice from crolfmg the
river. They now, however, very ftiortly procured us as much frefh meat
as we required, though it was for fome time a toilfome bufinefs to my
people, for as there was not yet a fuHicient quantity of fnow to run
Hedges, they were under the neceflity of loading themfelves with the
fpoils of the fhale. . .

S 2 On

r ' '

iH"

' ''^"

iSfi

179a.
Decfmbcft

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

On the 27th the froft was fo fevere that the axes of the workmen bet-
came almod as brittle as glafs. The weather was very various until the
2d of December, when my Farenheit's thermometer was injured by an
accident, which rendered it altogether ufelefs. The following table,
therefore, from the 16th of November, to this unfortunate circum-
(lance, is the only correft account of the weather which I can offer.

,*. >r'j •■•'.'!

^1 <.

I «

iVJ? UU'

§»

Nov

Oec

clear

19 F.SE

SJNW

4 1

a 7 . cloud V

ditto

b' n. !

4
4

clear
ditto
ditto
ditii>
ditto
ditto
loudy

20
-•>

2.5

|'3
>;<
•9

S.
S. E,

clear

ditto

cloudy
clear

cloudy

i °

6 I

6 -J

6 c

6''

5
5,

ESE
NVV

N.|
N E.

N.
S W

S.E.

cloudy
ditto
clear
ditto

cloudy

cloudv

cloudv
clear
ditto
ditto
ditto
ditto

cloudy
ditto
I

Strong wind,
t 10 l.id tii(>ht t below 0.
K^vcr llop(K(l.
lie diovc, aud water nfcs.
[ce drove again.

Snowed lad night a inches

After dark, over caft.
Ditto, ■* little wind S. W,

Fell 3 inches fnow lad night

In this (ituation, removed from all thofe ready aids which add fo much
to the comfort, and indeed is a principal char.-itleriflic of civilized life,
I was under the nccediiy of employing my judgment and experience in
acccflory circumftances, by no means conneded with the habits of my
life, or the cnterprilc in which I was immediately engaged. I was now
among a people who had no knowledge whatever of remedial applica>

* tion

NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

^33

.«

tion to thole diforders and accidents to which man is liable in every part ^79^

December.

of the globe, in the diftant wildernefs, as in the peopled city. They had " — \ —
not the lead acquaintance with that primitive medicine which confifts in
an experience of the healing virtues of herbs and plants, and is frequently
found among uncivililed and lavage nations. This circumdance now
obliged me to be their phyfician and furgeon, as a woman with a fuelled
bread, which had been lacerated with flint Hones for the cure of it, pre-
fcn'pd herlielf to my attention, and by cleanlinefs, poultices, aij 1 healing
falve, I fucceeded in producing a cure. One of thefe people alfo, who was
at work in the woods, was attacked with a fudden pain near the firll joint
of his thumb, which difabled him from holding an axe. On examining
his arm, I was allonifhcd to find a narrow red llripe, about half an inch
wide, from his tliumb to his (houlder; the pain was violent, and accom-
panied with chillinefs and fliivering. This was a cafe that appeared to be
beyond my fkill, but it was necelFary to do fomething towards relieving
the mind of the patient, though I might be unfuccefsful in removing his
complaint. I accordmgly prepared a kind of volatile lininlent of rum
and foap, with which I ordered his arm to be rubbed, but with little or
no elfett. He was in a raving (late throughout the night, and the red
ftripc not only encrcafed, but was alio accompanied with the appear-
ance of frvcral blotches on his body, and pains in his llomach: the
propriety of taking fome blood from him now occurred to me, and I vrn-
turt'd, rromablolute necefhtyjto perform that operation for the lirll time,
and with an eHcfcl that jullilied the treatment. The following night
afforded him red, and in a (hort time he regained his former health and
aftivity.

■i • ■ ' 1 *'|

L *

I was

I: SJ!

134

1792.
December.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

I was very much furprifed on walking in the woods at fuch an incle-
ment period of the year, to be faluted with the finging of birds, while
they feemed by their vivacity to be aftuated by the invigorating power
of a more genial feafon. Of thefe birds the male was fomething lefs
than the robin ; part of his body is of a delicate fawn colour, and his
neck, breaft, and belly, of a deep fcarlet ; the wings are black, edged
with fawn colour, and two white ftripes running acrofs them ; the tail is
variegated, and the head crowned with a tuft. The female is fmaller
than the male, and of a fawn colour throughout, except on the neck,
which is enlivened by an hue of glofly yellow. I have no doubt but
they are conftant inhabitants of this climate, as well as fome other fmall
birds which we faw, of a grey colour.

CHAP.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

135

^,'i:>ft\^i :!,;. ^l^fi^iis.a'J. ';:':,;,..iw

U T-'U'VlUif;! .:• ' ■.;!f

'>^ rf

•*r Hi -■

CHAPTER II.

Rtmoved/rom the tent to the houfe. Build habitations for the people. The
hardjhips they f offer. Violent hurricane: Singular circumjlances at-
tending it. The commencement of the new year. An Indian cured of a
dangerous wound. State of the wec'Ser. Curious cufioms among the
Indians ^ on t/ie death of a relation. Account of a quarrel. An Indian's
reafoning on it. Murd.r of one of the Indians. The caufe of it. Some
account of the Rocky Mountain. Indians. Curious circumjlance ref pelting
a woman in labour, &c. A difpute between two Indians, which arofe
from :\aming. An account of one of their games, Indian fuperjlition,
Mild.iefs of the feafon. The Indians prepare fnow fhces. Singular
cufioms. Further account of their manners. The flavifh flate of the
women. Appearance offpring. Difpatch canoes with the trade to Fort
Chcpetoyan, Make preparations for the voyage ofdifcovery.

I *• , n'i]

5!'^ '','1!

THIS day removed from the tent into the houfe which had been Dcc'JX'aa.
erefled for me, and fet all the men to begin the buildings intended for
their own habitation. Materials fufficient to ereft a range of five houfes
for them, of about feventeen by twelve feet, were already collefted. It
would be confidered by the inhabitants of a milder climate, as a great
evil, to be expofed to the weather at this rigorous feafon of the year, but
thefe people are inured to it, and it is neceffary to delcribe in ibme mea-

lurc

136

1792.
DeC'.'tnbT.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fure the hardfhips which they undergo without a murmur, in order to
convey a general notion of them. , , . ,

The men who were now with me, left this place in the beginning of
lad May, and went to the Rainy Lake in canoes, laden with packs of
fur, which, from the immenfe length of the voyage, and other con-
curring circumftances, is a mod fevere trial of patience and perfeverance :
there they do not remain a fufficient time for ordinary repofe, when
they take a load of goods in exchange, and proceed on their return,
in a great meafure, day and night. They had been arrived near two
months, and, all that time, had been continually engaged in very toilfome
labour, with nothing more than a common fhed to prote6l them from
the froft and fnow. Such is the life which thefe people lead ; and is
continued with unremitting exertion, till their ftrength is loft, in prema-
ture old age.

%:.

••••vj^Ml.,V.'V ■\

A.i\

The Canadians remarked, that the weather we had on the 25th, 26th,
and 27th of this month, denoted fuch as we might expe6l in the three
fucceeding months. On the 29th, the wind being at North-Eaft, and the
weather calm and cloudy, a rumbling noife was heard in the air like dif-
tant thunder, when the flsy cleared away in the South-Wefl ; from
whence there blew a perfe6l hurricane, wliicli lalltd till eight.
Soon after it commenced, the atmofphere became fo warm that it
dilTolved all the fnow on the ground ; even the ice was covered with
water, and had the fame appearance as when it is breaking up in
the fpring. From eight to nine the weather became calm, but imme-
diately after a wind urofe from the North-Eaft, with equal violence,

with

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

with clouds, rain, and hail, which continued throughout tlie night and
till the evening of the next day, when it turned to fnow. One of the
people who wintered at Fort Dauphin in tlie year 1780, when the fmall-
pox firtt appeared there, informed me, that the weather there was of a
firailar defcription. <?. *

On the firfl: day of January, my people, in conformity to the ufual
cuftom, awoke me at the break of day with the difcharge of fire-arms,
with which they congratulated the appearance of the new year. In re-
turn, they were treated with plenty of fpirits, and when there is any
flour, cakes are always added to their regales, which was the cafe on
the prefent occaiion.

On my arrival here laft fall, I found that one of the young Indians
had lofl: the ufe of his right hand by the burliing of a gun, and that his
thumb had been maimed in fuch a manner as to hang only by a fmall
llrip of flefti. Indeed, when he was brought to me, his wound was in
fuch an offenfive flate, and emitted fuch a putrid fmell, that it required
all the rcfolution I pofTeU'ed to examine it. His friends had done every
thing in their power to relieve him; but as it confided only in finging
about him, and blowing upon his hand, the wound, as may be well ima-
gined, had got into the deplorable flatc in which I found it. I was
rather alarmed at the difficulty of the cafe, but as the young man's life
was in a flate of hazard, I was determined to rilk my. furgical reputation,
and accordingly took him under my care. I immediately formed a
poultice of bark, flripped from the roots of the fpruce-fir, which I
applied to the wound, having firll waflied it with the juice of the
* • T bark:

J37

December.

»793-
January i.

i'l

138

»793-
January,

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

bark : this proved a very painful drefling : in a few days, however, the
wound was clean, and the proud flefh around it deftroyed. I wiihed
very much in this ftate of the bufinefs to have feparated the thumb from
the hand, which I well knew mufl; be effefted before the cure could be
performed; but he wou, ' not nfeat to that operation, till, by the ap-
plication of vitriol, the ; k ■>■■ which the thumb was fufpended, was
fhrivelled almofl; to a thrci vVi^mlhad fucceeded in this objeft, I
perceived that the wound was clofing .ather fader than I defired. The
lalve I applied on the occafion was made of the Canadian balfam, wax,
and tallow dropped from a burning candle into water. In fliort, I was
io fuccefsful, that about Chriftmas my patient engaged in an hunting
party, and brought me the tongue of an elk : nor was he finally un-
grateful. When he left me I received the warmeft acknowledgments, both
from himfelf, and the relations with whom he departed, for my care of
him. I certainly did not fpare my time or attention on the occafion, as
I regularly dreffed his wound three times a day, during the courfe of a
month, • ' ' r -^ ^y

On the 5th in the morning the weather was calm, clear, and very cold ;
the wind blew from the South-Wefl, and in the courfe of the afternoon
it began to thaw. I had already obferved at Athabafca, that this wind
never failed to bring us clear mild weather, whereas, when it blew from
the oppofite quarter, it produced ("now. Here it is much more per-
ceptible, for if it blows hard Souih-Well for four hours, a thaw is the
conffquencc, and if the wind is at North-Eafl it brings fleet and ("now
To this caufe it may be attributed, that there is now fo little (now in
this part of the world, Tliefe warm winds come olf the Pacific Ocean,
: 'T which

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

which cannot, in a direft line, be very far from us ; the diftance being
fo fhort, that though they pafs over mountains covered with fnow, there
is not time for them to cool. < ' , .. ' v .%;: .

There being feveral of the natives at the houfe at this time, one of
them, who had received an account of the death of his father, proceeded
in (ilence to his lodge, and began to fire off his gun. As it was night,
and fuch a noife being fo uncommon at fuch an hour, efpecially when
it was fo often repeated, I fent my interpreter to inquir m' the caufc
of it, when he was informed by the man himfelf, that th: war a common
cultom with them on the death of a near relation, and was a warning to
their friends not to approach, or intrude upon them, Ui they were, in
confequence of their lofs, become carelefs of life. le chief, to whom
the deceafed perfon was alfo related, appeared with his war-cap on his
head, which is only worn on thefe folemn cccafions, or when preparing
for battle, and confirmed to me this fingular cuflom of firing guns, in
order to exprefs their grief for the death of relations and friends.* The
women alone indulge in tears on fuch occafions ; the men confidering it
as a mark of pufiUanimity and a want of fortitude to betray any per-
fonal tokens of fenfibility or forrow. .•

The Indians informed me, that they had been to hunt at a large lake,
called by the Knifteneaux, the Slave Lake, which derived its name from
that of its original inhabitants, who were called Slaves. They repre-

* When tlicy arc, ilriiiking togetlier, they frequently prcfcnt their guns to each other, when any of
the parties have not other means of procuring rum. (3n liicli an occafion they always difchargc
tlicir pieces, a.i a proof, I imagine, of their being in good order, and to determine the quantity of
liquor the may propofe to get in exchange for them.

T 2 ' ' ■ • ' ' fented

139

»793-
January,

#'■'«

-1 '.*»;';. ■■

14^

January.

y — . — »

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fented it as a large body of water, and that it lies about one hundred
and twenty miles due Eaft from this place. It is well known to the
Knifleneaux, who are among the inhabitants of the plains on the banks
of the Safl^atchiwine river; for formerly, when they ufed to come to
make war in this country, they came in their canoes to that lake, and
left them there ; from thence there is a beaten path all the way to the
Fork, or Eaft branch of this river, which was their war-road.

January to. Among the people who were now here, there were two Rocky Moun-
tain Indians, who declared, that the people to whom we had given that
denomination, are by no means entitled to it, and that their country has
ever been in the vicinity of our prefent fituation. They faid, in fupport
of their aflertion, that thefe people were entirely ignorant of thole parts
which are adjacent to the mountain, as well as the navigation of the
river; that the Beaver Indians had greatly encroached upon them, and
would foon force them to retire to the foot of thefe mountains. Tliey
reprefented themfelves as the only real natives of that country then .
with me : and added, that the country, and that part of the river that
intervenes between this place and the mountains, bear much the fame
appearance as that around us ; that the former abounds with animals,
but that the courle of the latter is interrupted, near, and in the moun-
tains, by fuccelfive rapids and confiderable falls. Thefe men alfo in-
formed me, that there is another great river towards the mid-day fun,
whofe current runs in that diredlion, and that the diflance from it is not
great acrofs the mountains.

.{•. .

The natives brought mc plenty of furs. The fmall quantity of
fnow, at this time, was particularly favourable for hunting the beaver, as

from

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

from this circumftance, thofe animals could, with the greater facility, be
traced from their lodges to their lurking-places.

On the 12th the hunter arrived, having left his mother-in-law, who
was lately become a widow with three fmall children, and in a6lual la-
bour of a fourth. Her daughter related this circumftance to the women
here, without the leaft appearance of concern, though Ihe reprefented
her as in a ftate of great danger, which probably might proceed from
her being abandoned in this unnatural manner. At the fame time with-
out any apparent confcioufnefs of her own barbarous negligence; if the
poor abandoned woman ftiould die, (he would moft probablv lament her
with great outcries, and, perhaps, cut off one or two joints of her fingers
as tokens of her grief. 7 he Indians, indeed, confider the ftate of a
woman in labour as among the moft trifling occurrences of corporal
pain to which human nature is fubje^t, and they may be, in fome niea-
fure, juftified in this apparent infenfibility from the circumftances of that
fituation among themlclves. It is by no means uncommon in the hafty
removal of their camps from one pofition to another, for a woman to
be taken in labour, to deliver herfelf in her way, without any aftiftance
or notice from her alfociates in the journey, and to overtake them before
they complete the arrangements of their evening ftaiion, with her new-
born babe on her back. . '

I was this morning threatened with a very unpleafant event, which,
however, I was fortunately enabled to control. Two young Indians
being engaged in one of their games, a difpute enfued, which rofe to
fuch an height, that they drew their knives, and if I had not happened

January.

f.r:%

^ i i

. ¥'^

\tmd

S';

"^4

tfe

Wit ir'^

142

1793-
January.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

to have appeared, they would, I doubt not, have employed them to
very bloody purpofes. So violent was their rage, that after I had turned
them both out of the houfe, and feverely reprimanded them, they ftood
in the fort for at leaft half an hour, looking at each other with a moll
vindi6live afpeft, and in fullen filence. ' .

The game which produced this ftate of bitter enmity, is called that
of the Platter, from a principal article of it. The Indians play at it
in the following manner.

The inftruments of it confift of a platter, or difh, made of wood or
bark, and fix round, or fquare, but flat pieces of metal, wood, or ftone,
whofe fides or furfaces are of different colours. Thefe are put into the
dilh, and after being for fome time (haken together, are thrown into
the air, and received again in the difh with confiderable dexterity;
when, by the number that are turned up of the fame mark or colour,
the game is regulated. If there fliould be equal numbers, the throw is
not reckoned ; if two or four, the platter changes hands.

On the 13th, one of thefe people came to me, and prefented in himfelf
a curious example of Indian fuperftition. He requefted me to furnifh
him with a remedy that might be applied to the joints of his legs and
thighs, of which he had, in a great meafure loll the ule for five winters.
This aftliftion he attributed to his cruelty about that time, when hav-
ing found a wolf with two whelps in an old Beaver lodge, he fet fire
to it and confumed them. i , .

The

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 143

; The winter had been fo mild, that the fwans had but lately left us, and »79?'

January.

at this advanced period there was very little fnow on the ground : it was, ' — v — '
however, at this time a foot and a half in depth, in the environs of the
edablirhment below this, which is at the diilance of about feventy
leagues. ! :' : ; ^ '::,-( Ji^.^

On the 28th the Indians were now employed in making their fnow-
flioes, as the fnow had not hitherto fallen in fufficient quantity to render
them neceffary.

The weather now became very cold, and it froze fo hard in the night February z,
that my watch Itoppcd; a circumflance that had never happened to this
watch fince my refidence in the country.

There was a lodge of Indians here, who were abfolutely ftarving with
cold and hunger. They had lately loft a near relation, and had, accord-
ing to cuftom, thrown away every thing belonging to them, and evcii
exchanged the few articles of raiment which they pofleffed, in order, as I
prefume, to get rid of every thing that may bring the deceaied to their re-
membrance. They alfo deftroy every thing belonging to any deceafed
perfon, except what they confign to the grave with the late owner of
them. We had fome difficulty to make them comprehend that the debts
of a man wh dies (hould be difchatged, if he left any furs behind him:
but thofe who anderftand this principle of juftice, and profefs to adhere
to it, never fail t > prevent the appearance of any fkins beyond fuch as
may be neceffary to fatisfy the debts of their dead relation.

On the 8ih I had an obfervation for the longitude. In the courfe of

this

m>'

•,;S. ■.'!■

4! ■'. . .?t

■ li

n.isiilJ

>■ k'-

Ivt ; it'lfi

■'■ (,

' I' ?; ■ ,!

ir*

It -^

w 4

Febifuary.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

tl^is day one of my men, yfhf> bad i>eea fome time with the Indians, came
^ to infornii me that owe of them had threaieaed to flab him ; and on his pre-
ferriog a complaint to the man wiih whom he now Uved, and to whom
I had given him in charge, he replied, that be had been very impru-
dent to play and quarrel with the young Indians out of his lodge, where
no one would dare to come and quarrel with him; but that if he had
loft his life where he had been, it would have been the confequence of
his awn folly. Thus, even among thefe children of nature, it appears
that a man's houfe is his callle, where the protedlion of hofpitality is
rigidly maintained.

The hard froft which had prevailed from the beginning of February
continued to the i6th of March, when the wind blowing from the South-
Weft, the weather became mild.

On the 22d a wolf was fo bold as to venture among the Indian
lodges, and was very near carrying off a child.

I had another obfervation of Jupiter and his fatellites for the longi-
tude. On the 1 'jth fome geefe were fcen, and thefe birds are always con-
f Tcd as the harbingers of fpring. On the i (I of April ujy hunters (hot
five of them. This was a much earlier period than I ever remember to
have obferved the vifits of wild fowl in this part of the world. 1 he
weather had been mild for the laft fortnight, and there was a proniife of
its continuance. On the 5th the fnow had entirely difappeared.

At half piifl four this morning I was awakened to be informed that
an Indian had been killed. I accordmgly hallencd to tiie camp, where

I found

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

I found two women employed in rolling up the dead body of a man,
called the White Partridge, in a beaver robe, which I had lent him. He
had received four mortal wounds from a dagger, two within the collar-
bone, one in the left bread, and another in the fmall of the back, with two
cuts acrofs his head. The murderer, who had been my hunter through-
out the winter, had fled; and it was pretended that leveral relations
of the deceafed were gone in purfuit of him. The hiflory of this un-
fortunate event is as follows: — ^ - ,

Thefe two men had been comrades for four years ; the murderer had
three wives ; and the young man who was killed, becoming enamoured
of one of them, the hufliand confented to yield her to him, with the
reierved power of claiming her as his property, when it fliould be his
pleafure. This connexion was uninterrupted for near three years, when,
w'himfical as it may appear, the hufband became jealous, and the public
amour was fufpended. The parties, however, made their private affig-
nations, which caufed the woman to be fo ill treated by her hufl3and, that
the paramour was determined to take her away by force; and this proje6l
ended in his death. This is a very common praftice among the Indians,
and generally terminates in very ferious and fatal quarrels. In confequcnce
of this event all the Indians went away in great apparent hurry and con-
fudon, and in the evening not one of them was to be feen about the fort.

, ,'793-
• e'liriiarv.

1-'

^"'Pm

.» ■

■:'V|

■'. jll

I •

The Beaver and Rocky Mountain Indians, who traded with us in this
river, did not exceed an hundred and fifty men, capable of bearing
arms; two thirds of whom call thcmfclvcs Beaver Indians. The latter
diller only from the former, as they have, more or lefs, imbibed the cuf-
, . .. U loms

I.;} .11'

""111

1'^^ li

I-,'

146

»793'

March.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE ^

toms and manners of the Knifteneaux. As I have already obferved,
they are palTionately fond of liquor, and in the moments of their fefti-
vity will barter any thing they have in their polfeflion for it.

Though the Beaver Indians made their peace with the Knifteneaux,
at Peace Point, as already mentioned, yet they did not fecure a ftate of
amity from others of the lame nation, who had driven away the natives
of the Safliatchiwine and Miftinipy Rivers, and joined at the head water of
the latter, called the Beaver River : from thence they proceeded Well by
the Slave Lake jufl; defcribed, on their war excurfions, which they often
repeated, even till the Beaver Indians had procured arms, which was in
the year 1782. If it fo happened that they miffed them, they proceeded
Weflward till they were certain of wreaking their vengeance on thole
of the Rocky Mountain, who being without arms, became an eafy prey
to their blind and favage fury. All the European articles they pof-
fefted, previous to the year 1780, were obtained from the Knifteneaux
and Chepewyans, who brought them from Fort Churchill, and for which
they were made to pay an extravagant price. . . ^

Ki.

/ n

As late as the year 1 786, when the firft traders from Canada arrived on
the banks of this river, the natives employed bows and fnares, but at
prefent very little ule is made of the former, and the latter are no longer
known. They ftill entertain a great dread of their natural enemies, but
they are fince become (b well armed, that the others now call them their
allies. The men arc in geneml of a comely appearance, and fond of pcr-
fonal decoration. The women are of a contrary difpofition, and the Haves
of the men: in common with all the Indian tribes polygamy is allowed

among

NORTH-WEST COxNTINENT OF AMERICA.

among them. They are very fubjefl to jealoufy, and fatal confe-
quenccs frequently refult from the indulgence of that padion. But not- '
witli{landing the vigilance and feverity which is exercifed by the huf-
band, it fcldom happens that a woman is without her favourite, who,
in the abfence of the hufband,exa6ls the fame fubmiffion, and pradif^s
the fame tyranny. And fo premature is the lender palTion, that it is
fometimes known to invigorate fo early a period of life as the age of
eleven or twelve years. The women are not very prolific; a circum-
ftance which may be attributed, in a great meafure, to the hardfliips that
they fuffer, for except a few Imall dogs, they alone perform that labour
which is allotted to beafts of burthen in other countries. It is not uncom-
mon, while the men carry nothing but a gun, that their wives and daugh-
ters follow with fuch weighty burdens, that if they lay them down they
cannot replace them, and that is a kindnefs which the men will not deign
to perform ; fo that during their journeys they are frequently obliged to
lean againft a tree for a fmall portion of temporary relief. When they
arrive at the place which their tyrants have chofen for their encamp-
ment, they arrange the whole in a few minutes, by forming a curve of
poles, meeting at the top, and expanding into circles of twelve or fifteen
feet diameter at the bottom, covered with dreffcd Ikins ol the rnoofe
fewed together. During thefe preparations, the men fit down quietly to
the enjoyment of their pipes, if they happen to have any tobacco. But
notwithfhanding this nhjetX (late of llavery and fubmilfion, the women
have a confiderable influence on the opinion of the men in every thing
except their own domeftic fituaiion.

Thefc Indians me excellent hunters, and their cxcrcife in that capacity
f U 2 is

147

»793-

March.

— >^— -

IM'

n:i

148

1791.
March.

— V~

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

is fo violent as to reduce them in general to a very meagre appearance.
Their religion is of a very contra61ed nature, and I never witnefTed any
ceremony of devotion which they had not be flowed irom the Knide-
neaux, their feafls and fads being in imitation of that people. They are
more vicious and warlike than the Chepewyans, from whence they fprang,
though they do not pofl'efs their felfifhnefs, for while they have the means
of purchafing their neceflaries, they are liberal and generous, but when
thofe are cxhaufted they become errant beggars: they are, however, re-
markable for their honefly, for in the whole tribe there were only two
women and a man who had been known to have fwerved from that virt;.!e,
and they were confidered as obje6ls of disregard and reprobation. They
are afflifted with but few difeafes, and their only remedies confid ^'^
binding the temples, procuring perfpiration, finging, and blowin^j on the
fick perfon, or affetled part. When death overtakes any of them, their
property, as I have before obferved, is facrificed and deflroyed ; nor i$
there any failure of lamentation or mourning on fuch occalion: tlcy
who are more nearly related to the departed perfon, black their faces,
and fometimes cut off their h'ir; they pIT , oerce their arms with
knives and arrows. The grief ol the for. i.. is carried to a flili
greater exccfs; they not only cut their hair, and cry and howl, but
they will fometimes, with the utmoll deliberation, employ fome Iharp
inUrument to feparate the nail from the finger, and then force back
the fl''(h beyond the (irll joint, which they immediately amputate.
But .'.iiis extraordinary mark of alUidion is only difplayed on the
death of a favourite foil, an hulh.ind, or a father. Many of the old
woii.^n have fo often repeated this ceremony, that they have not a com-
plete iinger rcmaiUing on cither Imnd. The wonjcn v-acw their lamen-

taliom

■'>^M-

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

tations at the graves of their departed relatives for a long fucceflTion of
years. They appear, in common with all the Indian tribes, to be very
fond of their children, but they are as carelcfs in their mode of fwadling
them in their infant ftate, as they are of their own drefs ; the child is
laid down on a board, of about two feet long, covered with a bed o£
mofs, to which it is faftened by bandages, the mofs being changed as
often as the occafion requires. The chief of the nation had no lefs than
nine wives, and children in proportion*

When traders firft appeared among thefe people, the Canadians were
treated with the utmoft hofpitality and attention; but they have, by
their fubfequent condu6l, taught the natives to withdraw that rcfpeft
from them, and fometimcs to treat them with indignity. They differ
very much from the Chepewyans and Knifteneaux, in the abhorrence
they profefs of any carnal communication between their women and the
white people. They carry their love of gaming to excels; they will
purfue it for a fucceifion of days and nights, and no apprehenfion of
ruin, nor influence of domellic affc6tion, will rcfhain them from the
indulgence of it. They are a quick, lively, a6live people, with a keen,
penetrating, dark eye; and though they are very fufccptible of anger,
are as eafily appcafed. The males eradicate their beards, t\6 the females
their hair in every part, except t)icir heads, where it ii flrohg and black,
and without a curl. There are many old mi n among tluin, but they are
in general ignorant of the fpacL' in which they have been inhabitants of
the earth, though one of them told me that he recolledled lixty winters.

>793'
Marcli

n-'

An Indian in fome racjfurc explained his age to me, by relating that

'%&

Lilf' '^i

i;:

150

April.
— V '

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

he remembered the oppofite hills and plains, now interfperfed with
groves of poplars, when they were covered with mofs, and without any-
animal inhabhant but the rein-deer. By degrees, he faid, the face of
the country changed to its prefent appearance, when the elk came from
the Eafl:, and was followed by the buffalo ; the rein-deer then retired to
the long range of high lands that, at a confiderable diilance, run parallel
with this river.

On the 20th of April I had an obfervation of Jupiter and his fatellites,
for the longitude, and we were now vifited by our fummer companions
the gnats and mofquitoes. On the other fide of the river, which was yet
covered with ice, the plains were delightful ; the trees were budding, and
many plants in bionbm. Mr. Mackay brought me a bunch of flowers
of a pink colour, and a yellow button, encircled with fix leaves of a light
purple. The change ia the appearance of nature was as fudden as it was
pleating, for a few days only were pafled away fince the ground was
covered with Ihow. On the 25th the river was cleared of the ice.

. I now found thnt the death of the man called the White Partridge, had
deranged all the plans which I had fettled with the Indians for the fpring
hunting. They had ahembled at fome diflancc from the fort, and fent
an embaffy to mr. to demand rum to drink, that they might have an
opportunity of tying io. tiieir decealed brother. It would be con.
fidered as an extv .ae dcr-^Rd tion in an Indian to weep when Ibbcr, but
a (late of intoxication TaiiM ■ ns all irregularities. On my refufal, they
threatened to go to y,.v\ which, from motives of interefl: as' well as
humanity, wc aid our i ttnoll 10 difcourage ; and as a lecond melliige

VRI

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

was brought by perfons oF fome weight among thef'e people, and on
whom I could depend, I thought it prudent to comply with the demand,
on an exprefs condition, that they would continue peaceably at
home. ; . .

The month of April being nov/ paft, in the early part of which I was
molt bufily employed in trading with the Indians, I ordered our old
canoes to be repaired with bark, and added four new ones to them,
when with the furs and provifions I had purchaled, fix canoes were
loaded and difpatched on the 8th of May for Fort Chepewyan. I had,
however, retained fix of the men who agreed to accompany me on my
projefted voyage of difcovery. I alfo engaged my hunters, and clofed
the bufinefs of the year for the company by writing my public and pri-
vate difpatches.

Having afcertained, by various obfervations, the latitude of this place
to be 56. 9. North, and longitude 117. 35. 15. Weft: — on the 9th day
of May, I found, that my aerometer was one hour forty-fix minutes
flow to apparent time ; the mean going of it I had found to be twenty-
two fcconds (low in twenty-four hours. Having fettled this point, the
canoe was put into the water : her dimcnfions were twenty-five feet long
within, exclufive of the curves of (tern and fiern, twenty-fix inches hold,
and four feet nine inches beam. At the lame time flic was fo light, that
two men could carry her on a good road three or four miles without
relling. In this Ilendcr vedcl, we (hipped provilions, goods for prefcnts,
arms, ammunition, and baggage, to the weight of three thouland pounds,
and ail equip.igc often people j viz. Alexander Mackay, Jolrph Landry,

Charles

if^t

1793'

Ni..y.

'M'^

m :i

It ' ' !nt 'ilj' '«•

5 ' i ■ f !

'5? 1 Bf P

152

»793-

Mav.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Charles Ducette,* Francois Beaulieux, Baptifl Biflbn, Fran9ois Courtois,
and Jacques Bcauchamp, with two Indians as hunters and interpreters.
One of them, when a boy, was ufed to be fo idle, that he obtained the
reputable name of Cancre, which he flill podelles. With thcfe perfons
I embarked at feven in the evening. My winter interpreter, with another
perfon, whom I left here to take care of the fort, and fupply the natives
witli ammunition during the fummer, fhed tears on the refle£lion of
thofe dangers which we might encounter in our expedition, while my own
people offered up their prayers that we might return in fafety from it,

• Jofcph Landry and Charles Ducette were with me in ray former voyage.

CHAP.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

f'OlVl !. ■' t

h^At r\'! '^

:^t

CHAPTER III.

) V

-4i.

I ' Jl\,lV^

153

Proceed on the vc^age of difcovery. Beautiful fcenery. The canoe too
heavily laden. The country in ajlate of combujiion. Meet with an hunt-
i ing party. State of the river, &c. Meet zoith Indians. See the tracks
ef bears, and one of their dens. SerUiment of an Indian. JunElion
of the Bear River. Appearance of the country. State of the river.
Obferve a fall of timber. Abundance of animals. See fame bears.
Come infght of the rocky mountains. The canoe receives an injury and
is repaired. Navigation dangerous. Rapids and falls. Succeffion of
difficulties and dangers. ,

wini

! .A

1793-

May.

VV E began our voyage with a courfe South by Weft againft a Thuridayg.
flrong current one mile and three quarters, South-Weft by South one
mile, and landed before eight on an illand for the night. at* \:u '

The weather was clear and pieafant, though there was a kecnnefs in Friday 10.
the air ; and at a quarter paft three in the morning we continued our
voyage, fleering South-Weft three quarters of a mile. South- Weft by
South one mile and a quarter, South three quarters of a mile, South-
Weft by South one quarter of a mile, South-Weft by Weft one mile,
South- Weft by South three miles, South by Weft three quarters of a

mile,

Ilk Hilijl

'•T«r

tM\.

'I ,iU

«54

»793-
Mav.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

mile, and South- Wefl one mile. The canoe being drained from its having
been very heavily laden, became fo leaky, that we were obliged to land,
unload, and gum it. As this circumllance took place about twelve, I had
an opportunity of taking an altitude, which made our latitude 55. 58. 48.

When the canoe was repaired we continued our courle, fleering South-
Weft, by Weft one mile and an half, when I had the misfortune to drop
my pocket-compafs into the water ; Weft half a mile, Weft-South-Weft
four miles and an half. Here, the banks are fteep and hilly, and in fome
parts undermined by the river. Where the earth has given way, the face
of the cliffs difcovers numerous ilrata, confifting of rcddifh earth and
fmall ftones, bitumen, and a greyifh earth, below which, near the water-
edge, is a red ftone. Water iflues from moft of the banks, and the ground
on which it fpreads is covered with a thin white fcurf, or particles of
a faline fubftance : there are feveral of thefe fait fprings. At half paft
fix in the afternoon the young men landed, when they killed an elk
and ' ounded a buffalo. In this fpot we formed our encampment for
the night, 'i^ /:/ y :i .;tiwci •;:->:■> i ^dy.f ';.'-^:;ir ;;-. 'rr. •-•;•/ , ^ -

f.,.

From the place which we quitted this morning, the Weft fide of the
river difplayed a fucceffion of the moft beautiful fcenery I had ever be-
held. The ground rifes at intervals to a confiderable height, and ftretch-
ing inwards to a confiderable diftance : at every interval or paufe in the
rife, there is a very gently-afcending fpace or lawn, which is alternate
with abrupt precipices to the fummit of the whole, or, at leaft as far as
the eye could diftinguifh. This magnificent theatre of nature has all
ihe decorations which the trees and animals of tlie country can afford it:

groves

north-west continent of /America.

groves of poplars in every fliape vary the fcene ; and their intervals are
enlivened with vaft herds of elks and buffaloes : the former choofing the
fteeps and uplands, and the latter preferring the plains. At this time
the buffaloes were attended with their young ones who were frifking
about them ; and it appeared that the elks would foon exhibit the fame
enlivening circumftance. Tbe whole country difplayed an exuberant
verdure ; the trees that bear a bloffom were advancing fad to that de-
lightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches reflefting the
oblique rays of a rifing or fetting fun, added a fplendid gaiety to the
fcene, which no expreffions of mine are qualified to defcribe. The
Eaft fide of the river confifts of a range of high land covered with the
white fpruce and the foft birch, while the banks abound with the alder
and the willow. The water continued to rife, and the current being
proportionably ftrong, we made a greater ufe of fetting poles than
paddles."- -■■ ^r^-^ ...<... . *..--■ -rtN-- • - , ., r_. ,.- ^. ,w., ■. ,..-

155

«793-
May.

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The weather was overcaft. With a flrong wind a-head, we embarked Saturday u.
at four in the morning, and left all the frefh meat behind us, but the
portion which had been affigned to the kettle ; the canoe being already
too heavily laden. Our courfe was Weft-South- Weft one mile, where
a fmall river flowed in from the Eaft, named Quifcatina Sepy, or River
Vith the High Banks ; Weft half a mile. South half a mile, South-Weft
by Weft three quarters of a mile, Weft one mile and a quarter, South-
Weft a quarter of a mile, South-South- Weft half a mile, and Weft by
South a mile and an half. Here I took a meridian altitude, which gave
55. 56. 3. North latitude. We then proceeded Weft three miles and an
half, Weft-iJOUth-Wefl;, where the whole plain was on fire, one mile,

X 2 Weft

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J 56

'793-
Mav.

JOURNAI/ OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Wefl one mile, and the wind fo ftrong a-head, that it occafioned the canoe
to take in water, and otherwife impeded our progrefs. Here we landed
to take time, with the mean of three ahitudes, which made the watch
flow, 1. 42. 10. apparent time.

We now proceeded Wcft-Soutli-Weft, one mile and a quarter, where
we found a chief of the Beaver Indians on an hunting party. I re-
mained, however, in my canoe, and though it was getting late, I did not
choofe to encamp with thefe people, left the friends of my hunters
might difcourage them from proceeding on the voyage. We, therefore,
continued our courfe, but feveral Indians kept company with us,
running along the bank and converfing with my people, who were To
attentive to them, that they drove the canoe on a ftony flat, fo that we
were under the neceflity of landing to repair the damages, and put up
for the night, though very contrary to my wiflies. My hunters obtained
permiflion to proceed with fome of thefe people to their lodges, on the
promifc of being back by the break of day ; though I was not without
Tome apprehenflon refpefting them. The chief, however, and another
man, as well as feveral people from the lodges, joined us, before we had
completed the repair of the canoe ; and they made out a melancholy
ftory, that they had neither ammunition or tobacco fuflicient for their
ncceflary fupply during the fummer. I accordingly referred him to the
Fort, where plenty of thofe articles were left in the care of my inter-
preter, by whom they would be abundantly furniflied, if they were
a£live and induftrious in purfuing tlieir occupations. I did not fail, on
this occafion, to magnify the advantages of the prcfent expedition ; obferv-
ing, at the fame time, that its fucccfs would depend on the fidelity and

condu6l

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

;oncIu6l of the young men who were retained by me to hunt. The
chief alfo propofed to borrow my canoe, in order to tranfport himfelf
and family acrofs the river: feveral plaufible reafons, it is true, fug-
gefted themfelves for refilling his propofition ; but when I ftated to him,
that, as the canoe was intended for a voyage of fuch confequence, no
woman could be permitted to be embarked in it, he acquiefced in the re-
fufal. It was near twelve at night when he took his leave, after I had
gratified him with a prefent of tobacco.

^51

«793-
May.

Some of the Indians paffed the night with us, and I was informed by Sunday la.
them, that, according to our mode of proceeding, we fhould, in ten days,
get as far as the rocky mountains. The young men now returned, to
my great fatisfaQion, and with the appearance of coii^entment : though
I was not pleafed when they drefled themfelves in the clothes which I
had given them before wc left the Fort, as it betrayed fome latent defign.

! ' ^ • .' -^

At four in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, (leering Weft
three miles, including one of our courfe yefterday, North-Weft by North
four miles. Weft two miles and an half, North- Weft by Weft a mile and
an half. North by Eaft two miles, North-Weft by Weft one mile, and
North-North- Weft three miles. After a continuation of our courfe
where to the North for a mile and an half, wc landed for the night on an
ifland feveral of the Indians vifited us, but unattended by their women,
who remained in their camp, which was at fome diftance from us.

J' '»..:'

The land on both fides of the river, during the two laft days, is very
much elevated, but particularly in the latter part of it, and, on the Weftern

fide,

H ^

f*;- .!

«58

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fide, prefents in dlflferent places, white, fleep, and lofty clififs. Our
view being confined by thefe circumftances, we did not fee fo many
animals as on the loth. Between thefe lofty boundaries, the river be-
comes narrow, and in a great mcafure free from iflands ; for we had
pafled only four: the ftream, indeed, was not more than from two
hundred to three hundred yards broad; whereas before thefe cliffs
preffed upon it, its breadth was twice that extent and befprinkled with
iflands. We killed an elk, and fired feveral fliots at animals from the

canoe.

The greater part of this band being Rocky Mountain Indians, I en-
deavoured to obtain fome intelligence of our intended route, but they
all pleaded ignorance, and uniformly declared, that they knew nothing
of the country beyond the firft mountain : at the fame time they were of
opinion, that, from the firength of the current and the rapids, we (hould
not get there by water ; though they did not hefitate to exprefs their fur-
prife at the expedition we had already made. «.,T:n.

I inquired, with fome anxiety, after an old man who had already
given me an account of the country beyond the limits of his tribe,
and was very much difappointed at being informed, that he had not
been feen for upwards of a moon. This man had been at war on
another large river beyond the Rocky Mountain, and delcribed to me
a fork of it between the mountains; the Southern branch of which he di-
refted me to take : from thence, he faid, there was a carrying-plac'2 of
about a day's march for a young man to get ^o the other river. To prove
the truth of bis relation, he confentcd, that his fon, who had been with
' him

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

»59

him in thofe parts, (hould accompany me; and he accordingly fent liim *^98«
to the Fort fome days before my departure ; but the preceding night he ' v~— '
deferted with another young man, whofe application to attend me as a
hunter, being refufed, he perfuaded the other to leave me. I now
thought it right to repeat to them what I had faid to the chief of the
firft band, refpefting the advantages which would be derived from the
voyage, that the young men might be encouraged t6 remain with me ;
as without them I fhouid not have attempted to proceed.

The firft objeft that prefented itfelf to me this morning was the young Monday 13.
man whom I have already mentioned, as having feduced away my in-
tended guide. At any other time or place I (hould have chaftifed him
for his paft conduft, but in my fituation it was neceflary to pafs over hh
offence, left he ftiould endeavour to exercife the fame influence over thofe
who were fo eflential to ray fervice. Of the deferter he gave no fatis-
faftory account, but continued to exprefs his wifh to attend me in his
place, for which he did not poflefs any necelfary qualifications. ^

The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of rain ; and the Indians
preffed me with great earnellnefs to pafs the day with them, and hoped
to prolong my ftay among them by afturing me that the winter yet
lingered in the rocky mountains : but my objefcl was to lofe no time, and
having given the chief fome tobacco for a fmall quantity of meat,
we embarked at four, when my young men could not conceal their
chagrin at parting with their friends, for fo long a period as the
voyage threatened to occupy. When I had affured them that in

three moons wc fliould return to them, we proceeded on our courfe,

Weft

'**S* Mm

i^ei

i ir

M'i I.

i6o

>793'
May.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Weft-North-Weft halF a mile, Weft-South-Weft one mile and an half.
Weft by North three miles. North- Weft by Weft two miles and an half,
South- Weft by Weft half a mile, South-South- Weft a mile and an half,
and South- Weft a mile and a half. Here I had a meridian altitude,
■which gave 56. 17. 44. North latitude. "^

The laft courfe continued a mile and an half, South by Weft three
quarters of a mile, South- Weft by South three miles and an half, and
Weft-South- Weft two miles and an half. Here the land lowered on
hoth fides, with an increafe of wood, and difplayed great numbers of
animals. The river alfo widened from three to five hundred yards, and
was full of iflands and flats. Having continued our courfe three miles,
we made for the fhore at feven, to pafs the night.

At the place from whence we proceeded this morning, a river falls in
from the North ; there are alfo feveral iflands, and many rivulets on
cither fide, which are too fmall to deferve particular notice. We
perceived along the river tracks of large bears, fome of which were nine
inches wide, and of a proportionate length. We faw one of their dens,
or winter quarters, called watee, in an ifland, which was ten feet deep^
five feet high, and fix feet wide; but we had not yet feen one of ihofe ani-
mals. The Indians entertain great apprehenfion of this kind of bear,
which is called the grifly bear, and they never venture to attack it but in
a party of at leaft three four. Our hunters, though they had been
much higher than this part of our voyage, by land, knew nothiiig of the
river. One of them mentioned, that having been engaged in a war ex-
pedition, his party on their return made their canoes at fome diftanee

below

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

below us. The wind was Nonh throughout the day, and at times.blew
with conGderable violence.

"The apprehcnfions which I had felt refpefling the young men were
not altogether groundlefs, for the eldeft of them told me that his uncle
had laft night addreffed him in the following manner: — " My nephew,
your departure makes my heart painful. The white people may be faid
to rob us of you. They are about to conduft you into the midft of our
enemies, and you may never more return to us. Were you not with
the Chief*, I know not what I ftiould do, but he requires your at-
tendance, and you muft follow him."

■ k. i« iii. -. ■

■'*;,..

•" ■» I /k

t$%

»793«
May,

The weather was clear, and the air fharp, when we embarked at half Tuefday 14.
pad four. Our courfe was South by Weft one mile and an half, South-
Weft by South half a mile, South- Weft. We here found it neceflary to
unload, and gum the canoe, in which operation we loft an hour ; when
we proceeded on ihe laft courfe one mile and an half. I now took a
meridian altitude, which gave 56. 1 1 . 1 Q. North latitude, and continued to
proceed Weft-South- Weft two miles and an half. Here ihe Bear River,
which is of a large appearance, falls in from the Eaft ; Weft three miles
and an half, South-South- Weft one mile and an half, and South- Weft
four miles and an half, when we encamped upon an ifland about feven in
the evening. '•,

1!! ii

V During the early part of the day, the current was not fo ftrong as we.

,^.*4.,. »; '

* Thefe people, as well u all the natives on this ftde of Lake Winipic, give the mercantile agent
that didinguiihed appellation.

y had

X62

1793-

May.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

had generally found it, but towards the evening it became very rapid,
and was broken by numerous iflai:ds. We were gratified, as ufual, with
the fight of animals. The land on the Well fide is very irregular, but
has the appearance of being a good beaver country ; indeed we faw fome
of thofe animals in the river. Wood is in great plenty, and feveral
rivulets added their ftrearas to the main river. A goofe was the only
article of provifion which we procured to day. Smoke was feen, but
at a great diftancc before us. .... - ^ jVfff,.

«'ji

Wcdnef. ig. The rain prevented us from continuing our route till paft fix in the
morning, when our courle was South- Weft by Vv^eft three quarters of a
mile; at which time we pafied a river on the left, Weft by South two
. files and an half. The bank was fteep, and the current ftrong. The laft
■: .ffe continued one mile and an half, Weft-South- Weft two miles,
y/lnerc a river flowed in from the right, Weft by South one mile and an
half, Weft-North- Weft one mile, and Weft by North two miles. Here
the land takes the form of an high ridge, and cut our courfe, which was
Weft for three miles, at right angles. We now completed the voyage
of this day. jn^-i imn >

:,^**irfe^*Cj ^;,V.V,ik.?l'i^ . -;• r.y:, :. d^' Klf^ « t»* it mwm

> In the preceding nigh* the water rofe upwards of two inches, and had
rifen in this proportion fince our departure. The wind, which was
Weft-South- Weft,, blew very hard throughout the day, and with the
ftrength of the current, greatly impeded our progrefs. The river, in
this part of it, is full of iflands ; and the land, on the South or left fide, is
thick with wood. Several rivulets alfo fall in from that quarter. At
the entrance of the laft river which we pafted, there was a quantity of

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

163

May.

wood, which had been cut down by axes, and fome by the beaver. This
fall, however, was not made, in the opinion of my people, by any of the
Indians with whom we were acquainted. ,ift». '«.<;.

. .:■'• -.!>«- tiv>-i ■/'?"-
jif The land to the right is of a very irregular elevation and appearance^
compofed in fome places of clay, and rocky cliffs, and others exhibiting
ftratas of red, green, and yellow colours. Some parts, indeed, offer a
beautiful fcenery, in fome degree (imilar to that which we pafTed on the
fecond day of our voyage, and equally enli^'ened with the elk and the buf-
falo, who were feeding in great numbers, and unmolefled by the hunter.
In an ifland which we paffed, there was a large quantity of white birch,
whofe bark might be employed in the conftru6lioa of canoes. ii •' >

^ The weather being clear, we reimbarked at four in the morning, and ThurfdayiS.
proceeded Wefl by North three miles. Here the land again appeared as
if it run acrofs our courfe, and a confldcrable river difcharged itfelf by
various flreams. According to the Rocky Mountain Indian, it is called
the Sinew River. This fpot would be an excellent fituation for a fort or
faftory, as there is plenty of wood, and every reafon to believe that the
country abounds in beaver. As for the other animals, they are in cvi*
dent abundance, as in every direflion the elk and the buffalo are feen in
pofTeffion of the hills and the plains. Our courfe continued Weft-North-
Weft three miles and an half. North- Weft one mile and an half, South-
Weft by Weft two miles; (the latitude was by oblervation 56. \6. 54.)
North, Weft by North half a mile, Weft-North- Weft three quarters of a
mile; a fmall river appearing on the right, North- Weft one mile and an
half, Weft by North half a mile, Wefl by South one mile and an halfi
Weft one mile; and at leven we formed our encampments J .yuii iien^i
,1 Y 2 Mr. Mackay,

■V' J,

^■iiiii

r.,i

164

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

»793-
May.

>>n-r'

Friday 1 7,

Mr. Mftckay, and one of the young men, killed two elks, and mortally
wounded a buffalo, but we only took a part of the flefti of the former.
The land above the fpot where we encamped, fpreads into an extenfive
plain, and ftretches on to a very high ridge, which, in fome parts, pre-
fents a face of rock, but is principally covered with verdure, and varied
with the poplar and white birch tree. The country is fo crowded with
animals as to have the appearance, in fome places, of a flail- yard, from
the flate of the ground, and the quantity of dung which is fcattered over
it. The foil is black and light. We this day faw two gridy and hideous
bears. . ^ ^ . '. -a j

V v« *^

s^n;.."

:•(

It froze daring the night, and the air was fharp in the morning, when
we continued our courfe Wefl-North-Wefl three miles and an half, South-
Wefl by South two miles and an half, South- Wefl by Wefl one mile
and an half. Weft three quarters of a mile, Weft-South- Wefl one mile
and a quarter, and South- Weft by South one mile and an half. At two in
the afternoon the rocky mountains appeared in fight, with their fum-
mits covered with fnow, bearing South- Wefl by South : they formed a
very agreeable obje6l to every perfon in the canoe, as we attained the
view of them much fooner than we expefted. A fmall river was feen on
our right, and we continued our progrefs South- Wefl by Sout^i fix miles,
when we landed at feven, which was our ufual hour of encampment.

Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the fide of the river, difchargcd
his piece at a buffalo, when it burft near the muzzle, but without any
mifchievous confequences. On the high grounds, which were on the
eppoiite fide of the river, we faw a buffalo tearing up and do^vn with
great fury, but could not difcern the caufe of his impetuous motions; my

hunters

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

16S

hunters conjeflured that he had been wounded with an arrow by fome rn%*.
of the natives. We afcended feveral rapids in the courfe of the day, aii4 '~~v'*-
faw one bear.

I •» ;.»••

It again froze very hard during the night, and at four in the morning Siturday 18.
we continued car voyage, but we had not proceeded two hundred yards,
before an accident happened to the canoe, which did not, however, em-
ploy more than three quarters of an hour to complete the repair. We
then fleered South by Weft one mile and three quarters, South- Weft by
South three miles, South-Weft by Weft one mile and a quarter, Weft
by South three quarters of a mile, Sou ti- Weft half a mile. Weft by
South one mile. South by Weft one mile and an half, South-South-Weft,
where there is a fmall run of water from the right, three milesand an half,
when the canoe ftruck on the ftump of a tree, and unfctunately where the
banks were fo fteep that there was no place to unload, except a fmall
fpot, on which we contrived to difpofe the lading " e bow, which
lightened the canoe fo as to raife the broken part of it a^ ^e the furface
of the water; by which contrivance we reached a convenient (ituation«
It required, however, two hours to complete the repair, when the wea-
ther became dark and cloudy, with thunder, lightning, and rain ; we,
however, continued the laft courfe half a mile, and at fix in the evening
we were compelled by the rain to land for the night.

'w-W

About noon we had landed on an illand where there were eight lodges
of laft year. The natives had prepared bark here for five canoes, and
there is a road along the hills where they had paffed. Branches were cut
and broken along it; and they had aifo ftripped oft" the bark of the tree?,,
to get the interior rind, which forms a part of their food.

The

^♦t {■■f-f <^

Sunday 19.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The current was very ftrong tlirough the whole of the day, and the
coming up along fome of the banks was rendered very dangerous,
from the continual falling of large ftones, from the upper parts of
them. This place appears to be a particular pafs for animals acrols
the river, as there arc paths leading to it on both Gdes, every ten
yards, lo^v*** ' »*''t^*^'^*^-«' •' ,

tti*

• In the courfe of the day we faw a ground hog, and two cormorants.
The earth alfo appeared in feveral plaoes to have been turned up by the
bears, in fearch of roots. •

. ' \,^ . r..

It rained very hard in the early part of the night, but the weather be-
came clear towards the morning, when we embarked at our ufual hour.
As the current threatened to be very ftrong, Mr. Mackay, the two
hunters, and myfelf, went on ftiore, in order to lighten the canoe, and
afcended the hills, which are covered with cyprefs, and but little encum-
bered with underwood. We found a beaten path, and before we had
walked a mile fell in with a i herd of buffaloes, with their young ones ;
but I would not fuflFer the Indians to fire on them, from an apprehenfion
that the report .of their fowling pieces would alarm the natives that might
be in the neighbourhood ; for we were at this time fo near the mountains,
as to juftify our expeftation of feeing fome of them. We, however,
fent our dog after the herd, and a calf was foon fecured by him. While
the young men were fkinning the animal, we heard two reports of fire-
arms from the canoe, which we anfwered, as it was a fignal for my return :
we then heard another, and immediately haftened down the hill, with our
veal, through a very clofe wood. There we met one of the men, who

informed

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

informed us that the canoe was at a fmall diftance below, at the foot of
a very Ilrong rapid, and that as feveral waterfalls appeared up the river,
we fhould be obliged to unload and carry. I accordingly haftened
to the canoe, and was greatly difpleafed that fo much time had been
loft, as I had given previous direftions that the river (hould be followed
as long as it was prafticable. The laft Indians whom we faw had in-
formed us that at the firft mountain there was a confiderable fucceffion
of rapids, cafcades, and falls, which they never attempted to afcend; and
where they always paffed over land the length of a day's march. My men
imagined that the carrying place was at a fmall diftance below us, as
a path appeared to afcend an hill, where there were feveral lodges, of the
laft year's conftruftion. The account which had been given me of the
rapids, was perfeftly correft: though by crofting to the other fide, I
muft acknowledge w:*h fome rifle, in fuch an heavy-laden canoe, the
river appeared to me to be pra£licable, as far as we could fee : the tra-
verfe, therefore, was attempted, and proved fuccefsful. We now towed
the canoe along an ifland, and proceeded without any confiderable dif-
ficulty till we reached the extremity of it, when the line could be no lon-
ger employed; and in endeavouring to clear the point of the iftand, the
canoe was driven with fuch violence on a ftony ftiore, as to receive con-
fiderable injury. We now employed every exertion in our power to
repair the breach that had been made, as well as to dry fuch articles of
our loading as more immediately required it : we then tranfported the
whole acrofs the point, when we reloaded, and continued our courfe
about three quarters of a mile. We could now proceed no further on
this fide of the water, and the traverfe was rendered extremely danger-
ous, not only from the ftrength of the current, but by the cafcades juft

below

167

»793'
May.

,. ■ ■'■>''

Si t

i68

JOUkNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

below us, which, if we had got among them, would have involved us and
the canoe in one common deftnifliou. We had no other alternative
ihap to return by the fame courfe we came, c o hazard the traverle, the
river on this fide being bounded by a rar^e of deep, over-hanging rocks,
beneath which the current was driven on with relillkrs impetuofity irom
the cafcades. Here are feveral iflands of lolid rock, covered with a
fmall portion of verd;jre, which have be( n worn away by the con-
ftant force of the current, and occafionaiiy, as I prefunie, of ice, at
the water's edge, fo as to be reduced in thai pari to one fourth the extent
of the upper furface ; prefenting, as it were, lo many huge tables, each of
which was fupported by a pedellal of a more cirL-umfcribed proje61ion.
They are very elevuied for fuch a fituation, and afford an afyium for
geefe, which were at this time breeding on them. By croffing irom one
to the otiier of thefe i'lands, we came at length to the main traverfe, on
which we ventured, and were fuccelidul in our palfage. Mr. Mackay,
and the Indians, who obferved our manoeuvres from the top of a rock,
were in continual alarm for our fafety, with which their own, indeed,
may be faid lo have been nearly conne6led: however, the dangers
that we encountered were very much augmented by the heavy load-
ing of the canoe. ,/! V rh n ♦ v'» k*;

,-..,

When wc had cfiedeu our palfage, the current on the Weft fide was
almoll: equally violent with that from whence we had juft efcaped, but
the craggy bank being fomewhat lower, we were enablecl, with a line of
fixty fathoms, to tow the canoe, till we came to the foot of the moft rapid
cafcadc we had hithesto feen. Here we unloaded, and carried every
thing over a rocky point of an hundred and twenty paces. When the

canoe

NORTH -WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

canoe was reloaded, I, with thofe of my ^jeople who were not immedi-
ately employed, afcended the bank, which was there, and indeed, as far as
we could lee it, compofed of clay, (lone, and a yellow gravel. My prefent
fituation was fo elevated, that the men, who were coming up a ftrong
point could not hear me, though I called to them with the utmoft flrength
of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part of its lading. And here I
could not but refle6l, with itifitnte anxiety, on the hazard of my enter-
prize: one falfe ftep of thofe who were attached to the line, or the break-
ing of the line itfelf, would have at once oonfigned the canoe, and every
thing it contained, to indant de(lru6lion : it, however, afcended the rapid
in perfeft fecurity, but new dangers immediately prefented themfelves,
for (lones, both fmall and great, were continually rolling from the bank,
fo as to render the fituation of thofe who were dragging the canoe be-
neath it extremely perilous ; befides, they were at every ftep in danger,
from the fteepnefs of the ground, of falling into the water: nor was my
folicitude diminifhed by my being neceflarily removed at times from
the fight of them. . - ,....

In our paflage through the woods, we came to an inclofure, which
had been formed by the natives for the purpofe of felling fnarcs for the
elk, and of which we could not difcovcr the extent. After we had
travelled for fome hours through the foreft, which confifted of the
fpruce, birch, and the largeft poplars I had ever feen, we funk down
upon the river, where the bank is low, and near the foot of a mountain ;
between which, and an high ridge, the river flows in a chtinn^ of about
one hundred yards broad ; though, at a fmall diftance below, it rufhes on
between perpendicular rocks, where it is not much more than Iialf thnt
i' '^^ < Z breadth.

i6g

May.

• 'il

f!l

t7P

»799-
May.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

breadth. Here I remained, in great anxiety, expeQiiig the arrival of
the canoe, and after fome time I fent Mr. Mackay with one of the In-
dians down the river in fearch of it, and with the other I. went up it to
examine what we might expe6l in that quarter. In about a mile and
a half I came to a part where the river wafhes the feet of lofty precipices,
and prefented, in the form of rapids and cafcades, a fuccefiion of diffi.
culties (o our navigation. As the canoe did not come in fight we re-
turned, and from the place where I had feparated \vith Mr. Mackay, we
faw the men carrying it over a I'mall rocky point. We met them at the
^trance of the narrow channel already mentioned ; their difficulties had
been great indeed, and the canoe had been broken, but they had per-
fevered with fuccefs, and having pafled, the carrying-place, we proceeded
with the line as far as I had already been, when we croffed over and
encamped on the oppofite beach ; but there was no wood on this fide
of the water, as the adjacent country had been entirely overrun by fire.
We faw fcveral elks feeding on the edge of the oppofite precipice, which
was upwards of three hundred feet in height, ,r«Ku lo jjiwU > u

Our courfc to-day was about South-South- Weft two miles and an half,
South- Weft half a mile, South- Weft by South one mile and an half, South-
by Weft half a mile. South- Weft half a mile, and Weft one mile and an half.
There was a fhower of hail, and fome rain from flying clouds. I now dif-
patched a man with an Indian to vifit the rapids above, when the latter
foon left him to purfue a beaver, whicJji was fecn in the flaallow water on
the infidc of a ftony iUand ; and though Mr. Mackay, and the other
Indian joined him, the animal at length cfcapcd from their purfuit.
Several others, were leen in the courfe of the day, which I by no means
..fiLv/lf X cxpcfcled,

171

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERIC.\.

cxpefted, as the banks are almoft every where fo much elevated above
the channel of the river. Juft as the obfcurity of the night drew on,
the man returned with an account that it would be impraflicable to
pafs fevral points, as well as the fuper-impending promontoriei*'^ • nir.T^f.

The weather was clear with a (harp air, and we renewed our voyage Monday to.
at a quarter pad four, on a courfe South-Weft by Weft three quarters
of a mile. We now, with infinite difficulty paffed along the foot of a
rock, which, fortunately, was not an hard iione, fo that we were enabled
to cut Heps in it for the diftance of twenty feet ; from which, at the
hazard of my life, I leaped on a fmall rock below, where I received thofe
who followed me on my (houlders. In this manner four of us pafled
and dragged up the canoe, in which attempt we broke her. Very
luckily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us, without which we
could not have made a fire, as no wood was to be procured within a
mile of the place. When the canoe was repaired, we continued towing
it along the rocks to the next point, when we embarked, as we could
not at prcfent make any further ufe of the line, but got along the rocks
of a round high ifland of ftone, till we came to a fmall fandy bay. As
we had already damaged the canoe, and had every rcafon to think that
(he foon would rifk much greater injury, it became neceflary for us to
fupply ourfelves with bark, as our provifion of that material article was
almoft exhaufted; two men were accordingly fcnt to procure it, who
foon returned with the neceflary ftore. • '»»»>• «"»• onii h-x ii.-v-i

•"Mij V» »;» ii'ivr m /r^r.'jov lun ;\t}U'r. . .;•;.' .•!),,of»i y r\?.» 'to ft i/rli

Mr. Mackny, and the Indians who had bfcn on (horc, finco we broke
the canoe, were prevented from coming to us by the rugged and ira-
•f Z 2 padablc

'i. ■■''< '

172

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

paflable ftate of the ground. We, therefore, again refumed our courfe
with the afliftance of poles, with which we pufhed onwards till we came
beneath a precipice, where we could not find any bottom ; fo that we were
again obliged to have recourfe to the line, the management of which
was rendered not only difficult but dangerous, as the men employed in
towing were under the neceffity of pafTing on the outfide of trees that
grew on the edge of the precipice. We, however, furmounted this dif-
ficulty, as we had done many others, and the people who had been
walking over land now joined us. They alio had met with their ob-
ftacles in paffing the mountain* ;;jir) .>*. i'> 'i-\.] irt ]• n.' ;f|i-t fj/^
■■'r:i> - .\/f.:A^.v'j- y»nf^w ,wot«>vi. i^ym iUtr.) n n-; h's-f«-r: I Ml -m ')a h. KK if
It now became neceffary for us to make a traverfe, where the water
was fo rapid, that fome of the people dripped themfelves to their fhirts
that they might be the better prepared for fwimming, in cafe any acci-
dent happened to the canoe, which they ferioufly apprehended ; but we
fucceeded in our attempt without any other inconvenience, except that
of taking in water. We now came to a cafcade, when it was thought
neceffary to take out part of the lading. At noon we flopped to take an
altitude, oppofite to a fmall river that flowed in from the left: while I
was thus engaged, the men went on fhore to faden the canoe, but as the
current was not very flrong, they had been negligent in performing
this office ; it proved, however, fufficiently powerful to fheer her off,
and if it had not happened that one of the men, from abfolute fatigue
had remained and held the end of the line, we fhould have been de-
prived of every means of profecuting our voyage, as well as of pre-
fent fubfiftence. But notwithflanding the flate of my mind on fiich
an alarming circumflancr, and an intervening cloud that interrupted

'. \

me,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

me, the altitude which I took has been fince proved to be tolerably
correft, and gave ^6. North latitude. Our laft courfe was South-South-
Weft two miles and a quarter. '^Z s;. i.HS,; !■ ;

• We now continued our toilfome and perilous progrefs with the line
Weft by North, and as we proceeded the rapidity of the current in-
creafed, fo that in the diftance of two miles we were obliged to unload
four times, and carry every thing but the canoe : indeed, in many places,
it was with the utmoft difficulty that we could prevent her from being
daflied to pieces again ft the rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five
we had proceeded to where the river was one continued rapid. Here
we again took every thing out of the canoe, in order to tow her up with
the line, though the rocks were fo (helving as greatly to increafe the toil
and hazard of that operation. At length, however, the agitation of the
water was fo great, that a wave ftriking on the bow of the canoe broke
the line, and filled us with inexpreffible difmay, as it appeared impof-
fible that the veflel could efcape from being daftied to pieces, and thoff
who were in her from periftiing. An' ..her wave, however, more pro-
pitious than the former, drove her out of the tumbling water, fo that the
men were enabled to bring her aftiore, and though ftie had been carried
over rocks by thefe fwells which left them naked a moment after, the
canoe had received no material injury. The men were, however, in fuch
a ftate from their late alarm, that it would not only have been unavailing
but imprudent to have propofcd any further progrefs at prcfent, parti-
cularly as the river above us, as far as we could fee, was one white flieet
of foaming water. ,ut»;frr •- ?!*? o^ '»• >{rtfi ^ni(<^'f K« U^^jWul '

.IhV ' CHAP.

173

May.

lSfc»'

'H'l

^^'li

M^iA !s!l -K'

f ■ ;• ii-

.*74

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

.-wM

»793-
May.

CHAPTER IV.

vf'jv

Continuation of difficulties aria dangers. Difcontents dMdkg'the people.
State of the river and its banks. Volcanic chafms in the earth. Dif-
patch various per/ons to difcover ways acrofs the mou7itain.' ObftacUs
prefent them/elves on all Jides. Preparations made to attempt the
mountain. Account of the afcent with the canoe and baggage. The
trees that are found there. Arrive at the river. Extraordinary cir-
cumjlances of it. Curious hollows in the rocks. Prepare the canoe.
Renew our pro'gfefs up the river. The fate of it. Leav^" fame tokens
of amity for the natives. The weather very cold. Lojl a book of my
obfervations for Jhjeral days. Continue to proceed up the river. Send
a letter down the current in a rum-keg. Came to the forks, and pro-

[ued up the Eajlern branch. Circumjlances of it. '-""^ '"*" ^"'^ ■'"'

•ma S.'OiJf j-IWOWOa />vr,>,.

mo'il iort nl ifiyn mlv

L HAT the difcouragements, difficulties, and dangers, which had

hitherto attended the progrefs of our enterprizc, fhould have excited a

wifh in feveral of thofc who were engaged in it to difcontinue the purfuit,

might be naturally expefted; and indeed it began to be muttered on all

fides that there was no alternative but to return. ' ^''' '^' •*" ^''i^'*!"" '*'"^
« 1-14 1 .9Jj«tw tf*io«'iw \yM t»i)»n^ ) v^ >v, sHv Bf> ^et) yfcMti (*V<'\f r>fl) iff, ^^h/»li;i

Inftead of paying any attention to thefe murmurs, I defired thofc
who had uttered them to exert themfelves in gaining an afcent of the
•lAlU hill.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

hill, and encamp there for the night. In the mean time I fet off with
one of the Indians, and though I continued my examination of the river
almofl: ac long as there was any light to aflift me, I could fee no end of
the rapids and cafcades t I was, therefore, perfe6tly iatisfied, that it would
be imprafticable to proceed any further by water. We returned from
this reconnoitring excurfion very much fatigued, with our {hoes worn
out and wounded feet ; when I found that, by felling trees on the de
clivity of the firft hill, my people had contrived to afcend it. ^ .-... : i

♦i^Frora the place where I had taken the altitude at noon, to the place
where we made our landing, the river is not more than fifty yards wide,
and flows between llupendous rocks, from whence huge fragments fome-
times tumble down, and falling from fuch an height, da(h into fmall Aones,
wijth (harp points, and form the beach between the rocky projeftions.
Along the face of fome of thefe precipices, there appears a flratum of a
bitumenous fubftance which refcmbles coal; though while fome of the
pieces of it appeared to be excellent fwel, others lefifted, for a confider-
able time, the aftion of fire, and did not emit the lead flame. The wlwle
of this day's courfe would have been altogether imprafticable, if the water
had been higher, which mull be the cafe at certain feafons. We faw alfo
fcveral encampments of the Knifleneaux along the river, which rbufl
have been ibrnoed by them on their war excurfions: a decided proof of
the favage, blood-thirlly difpofition of that people; as nothing lefs
than fuch a fpirit could impel them to encounter the difficulties of this
almofl inacceflibie country, whofe natives are equally unoifending and
dcCcncelefa, fi9(| jji^i •.,;'>ai *«"jM5'> ;> s» '(^' ijpv.'mioj vitfr nuoa wv/i

•^iii iinoc?d lojj x?;lj llii ,»3.llfiy 0J'»r iiiul ixifi ilUd ii-yhtu'Sla ti-f^Mr.

... , ^ , ^ ^

175

»793*
May.

/»1

♦1 'I

; *•.■ 1.

i r

>'4- *

f76

May.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Mr. Mackay informed rae, that in pafling over the mountains, he ob-
fcrved feveral chafms in the earth that emitted heat and fmoke, which
diffufed a (Irong fulphureous ftench. I (hould certainly have vifited this
phaenomenon, if I had been fufiiciently qualified as a naturalift, to have
offered fcientific conjeftures or obfervations thereon. * p4

luefday 2t. It rained in the morning, and did not ceafs till about eight, and as the
men had been very fatigued and difheartened, I fuffered them to con-
tinue their refl till that hour. Such was the ftate of the river, as I have
already obferved, that no alternative was left us ; nor did any means of
proceeding prefent themfelves to us, but the paffage of the mountain
over which we were to carry the canoe as well as the baggage. As this
was a very alarming enterprize, I difpatched Mr. Mackay with three men
and the two Indians to proceed in a flraight courfe from the top of the
mountain, and to keep the line of the river till they fhould find it na-
vigable. If it (hould be their opinion, that there was no pra6licable paf-
fage in that direfiion, two of them were in(lru£ted to return in order to
make their report ; while the others were to go in fearch of the Indian
carrying-place. While they were engaged in this excurlion, the people
who remained with me were employed in gumming the canoe, and
making handles for the axes. At noon I got an altitude, which made
our latititude 56. o. 8. At three o'clock had time, when my watch was
flow 1. 31. 32. apparent time. ,,

At fun-fet, Mr. Mackay returned with one of the men, and in about
two hours was followed by the others. They had penetrated thick
woods, afcended hills and funk into vallies, till they got beyond the

rapids.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

»77

»793.

May.

rapids, which, according to their calculation, was a diftance of three
leagues. The two parties returned by different routes, but they both
agreed, that with all its difficulties, and they were of a very alarming
r.ature, the outv/ard courfe was that which muft be preferred. Unpro-
miling, however, as the account of their expedition appeared, it did not
fink them into a ftate of difcoura ; ement ; and a kettle of wild rice,
fweetened with fu gar, which had been prepared for their return, with
their ufual regale of rum, foon renewed that courage which difdained all
obftacles that threatened our progrefs :. and they went to reft, with a full
determination to furmount them on the morro\tr. I fat up, in the hope
of.getting an obfervation of Jupiter and his firft fatellite, but the cloudy
weather prevented my obtaining it. ■-■"■

At break of day we entered on the extraordinary journey which was Wednef. a
to occupy the remaining part of it. The men began, without delay, to
cut a road up the mountain, and as the trees were but of fmall growth, ;
I ordered them to fell thofe which they found convenient, in fuch a
manner, that they might fall parallel with the road, but, at the fame
timv?, not feparate them entirely from the flumps, fo that they might
form a kind of railing on either fide. The baggage was now brought
from the waterfide to our encampment. This was likewife from the
deep ftielving of the rocks, a very perilous undertaking, as one falfe ftcp
of any of the people employed in it, would have been inilantly followed
b) falling headlong into the water. When this important objeQ was at-
tained, the whole of the party proceeded with no fmall degree of appre-
henfion, to fetch the canoe, which, in a fhort time, was alio brought to
the encampment; and, as foon as we had recovered from our fatigue, we
. ■ A a advanced

'' ^kr^ -

^^ 'ill's

178

«79J«
May.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

advanced with it up the mountain, having the lin ^ed and faflened

furceflively as we went on to the (lumps ; while a man at the end of
it, hauled it round a tree, holding it on and fhifting it as we pro-
ceeded ; fo that we may be faid, with ftrift truth, to have warped the
canoe up the mountain : indeed by a general and mod laborious exer-
tion, we got every thing to the fummit by two in the afternoon. At
noon, the latitude was 56. o. 47 North. At five, I lent the men to cut
the road onwards, which they efFefted for about a mile, when they
returned. -.r^'^"'

* The weather was cloudy at intervals, with fhowers and thunder. At
about ten, I obferved an emerfionof Jupiter's fecond fatellite; time
by the achrometer 8. 32. 20. by which I found the longitude to be
1 20. 29. 30. Well from Greenwich.

Thurfdayj3. '^^^ wcathcr was clear at four this morning, when the men began to
carry. I joined Mr. Mackay, and the two Indians in the labour of
cutting a road. The ground continued rifing gently till noon, when it
began to decline ; but though on fuch an elevated fituation, we could
fee but little, as mountains of a ftill higher elevation and covered with
fnow, were feen far above us in every dire£lion. In the afternoon
the ground became very uneven; hills and deep defiles alternately pre-
fented themfelves to us. Our progrefs, however, exceeded my expec-
tation, and it was not till four in the afternoon that the carriers over-
took us. At five, in a Hate f fatigue that may be more readily con-
ceived than expreffed, we encamped near a rivulet or fpring that iffued
from beneath a large mafs of ice and fnow,
I Our

>79

— y—

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

. Our toilfome journey of this day I compute at about three miles ;
along the firll of which thft land is covered with plenty of wood, con-
fifting of large trees, encumbered with little underwood, through which
it was by no means difficult to open a road, by following a well-beaten
elk path: for the two fucceeding miles we found the country over-
fpread with the trunks of trees, laid low by fire fome years ago ; among
which large copfes had fprung up of a clofe growth, and intermixed
with briars, fo as to render the palFage through them painful and
tedious. The foil in the woods is light and of a dufky colour ; that
in the burned country is a mixture of fand and clay with fmall (lones*
The trees are fpruce, red-pine, cyprefs, poplar, white birch, willow,
alder, arrow-wood, red-wood, liard, fervice-tree, bois-picant, &c. I
never faw any of the lafl kind before. It rifes to about nine feet in
height, grows in joints without branches, and is tufted at the extremity.
The ftem is of an equal fize from the bottom to the top, and does not
exceed an inch in diameter; it is covered with fmall prickles, which
caught our trowfers, and working through them, fometimes found their
way to the flefh. The fhrubs are, the goofeberry, the currant, and
feveral kinds of briars.

We continued our very laborious journey, which led us down fome Friday 24.
fteep hills, and through a wood of tall pines. After much toil and trou-
ble in bearing the canoe through the difficult palTages which we encoun-
tered, at four in the afternoon we arrived at the river, fome hundred
yards above the rapids or falls, with all our baggage. I compute the dif-
tance of this day's progrefs to be about four miles ; indeed I fhould have
meafured the whole of the way, if I had not been obliged to engage pcr-

/ ^ a 2 fonally

.11

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fonally in the labour of making the road. But after all, the Indian carry-
ing way, whatever may be its length, and 1 4hink it cannot exceed ten
miles, will always be found more fafe and expeditious than the paflage
which our toil and perfeverance formed and furmounted.

■ Thofeof my people who vifited this place on the 21ft, were of opinion
that the water, had rifen very much fincc that time. About two hundred
yarxls below us the fllream rufhed with an aftonifliing but filent velocity,
between perpendicular rocks, which are not more than thirty-five yards
afunder: when the water is high, it runs over thofe rocks, in a channel three
times that breadth, where it is bounded by far more elevated precipices.
In the former are deep round holes, fome of which are full of water,
while others are empty, in whofe bottom are fmall round ftones, as
Imooth as marble. Some of thv^fe natural cylinders would contain two
hundred gallons. At a fmall diftance below the firft of thefe rocks, the
channel widens in a kind of zig-zag progreffion ; and it was really awful
to behold with what infinite force the water drives againft the rocks on
one fide, and with what impetuous ftrength it is repelled to the other: it
then falls back, as it were, into a more llrait but rugged paffage, over
which it is toffed in high, foaming, half-formed billows, as far as the eye
could fallow it. -f^H)'' ■'';^i:^iol^^ik>viOiii.i^r'ttfoh''>UMisim iV/

^^j. f. _i_ -.+»;.*

The young men informed me that this was the place where their relations
had told me that 1 fhould meet with a fail equal to that of Niagara : to ex-
culpate them, however, from their apparent mifinformation, they declared
that their friends were not accuftomed to utter falfehoods, and that the
fall had probably been dellroyed by the force of the water. It is, how-

ijl

fi A

ever.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

i8x

ever, very evident that thofe people had not been here, or did not adhere
to the truth. By the number of trees which appeared to have been felled
with axes, we difcovered that the Kaifteneaux, or fome tribes who are
known to employ that inftrument, had pafled this way. We paffed
through a fnare enclofure, but faw no animals, though the country was
very much interfe6led by their tracks. :Ui: -

1703.

May.

tt^'.fr

It rained throughout the night, and till twelve this day; while the bufi- Saturday 25.
nefs of preparing great and fmall poles, and putting the canoe in
order, &c. caufed us to remain here till five in the afternoon. I now
attached a knife, with a Iteel, flint, beads, and other trifling articles to a
pole, which I ere6led, and left as a token of amity to the natives. When
I was making this arrangement, one of my attendants, whom I have
already defcribed under the tide of the Cancre, added to my aflbrtment
a fmall round piece of green wood, chewed at one end in the form of a
brufli, which the Indians ufe to pick the marrow out of bones. This he
informed me was an emblem of a country abounding in animals. The
water hadrifen during our Itay here one foot and an half perpendicular
height. i M

.itj

.11

We now embarked, and our courfe was North-Weft one mile and
three quarters. There were mountains on all fides of us, which were
covered with fnow: one in particular, on the South fide of the river,
rofe to a great height. We continued to proceed. Weft three quarters
of a mile. North- Weft one mile, and Weft-South-Weft a quarter of a
mile, when we encamped for the night. The Cancre killed a fmall elk.

:i-Jfc-l«^JvSl«k«

*W «*.

The

•?t

*«s

l82

»793'
May.

Sunday 26.

|l I

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The weather was clear and fharp, and between three and four
in the morning we renewed our voyage, our firft courfe being Weft
by South three miles and an half, when the men complained of the
cold in their fingers, as they were obliged to pufh on the canoe with
the poles. Here a fmall river flowed in from the North. We now
continued to (leer Weft-South- Weft a quarter of a mile, Weft-North-
Weft a mile and an half, and Weft two miles, when we found our-
felves on a parallel with a chain of mountains on both fides the river,
running South and North. The river, both yefterday and the early part
of to-day, was from four to eight hundred yards wide, and full of illands,
but was at this time diminiftied to about two hundred yards broad, and
free from iflands, with a Imooth but ftrong current. Our next courfe
was South- Weft two miles, when we encountered a rapid, and faw an
encampment of the Knifteneaux. We now proceeded North- Weft by
Weft one mile, among iflands, South- Weft by Weft three quarters of
a mile, South-South-Eaft one mile, veered to South- Weft through iflands
three miles and an half, and South by Eaft half a mile. Here a river
poured in on the left, which was the moft confiderable that we had fccn
fince we had paflcd the mountain. At fcven in the evening we landed
and encamped.

Though the fun had flione upon us throughout the day, the air
was fo cold that the men, though a6tively employed, could not rcfift it
without the aid of their blanket coats. This circumflance might in
fome degree be expedcd from the lurrounding mountains, which were
covered with ice and liiow; but as they are jiot fo high as to produce
the extreme cold which we fullered, it muft be more particularly attri-
-I' butcd

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

buted to the high fituation of the country itfelf, rather than to tlie local
elevation of the mountains, the greated height of which does not exceed
fifteen hundred feet; though in general they do not rife to half that alti-
tude. But as I had -.lOt been able to take an exaft meafurement, I do
not prefume upon the accuracy of my conje6lure. Towards the bottom
of thefe heights, which were clear of fnow, the trees were putting forth
their leaves, while thofe in their middle region flill retained all the cha-
rafteriftics of winter, and on their upper parts there was little or no

wood. .• ' ■■,-"-;' —:, •.<-.— •;-. • .-r.-,--. .- .- ^,. , . , -..

170?.
Mav.

(!■'■'>■>"■"*■'■* I'- " '' ■ r-.Yfj ^'^•''' ■'■' ,

r't

■.■',',' A'-,.'.' "'.'it' '' /' '

* The weather was clear, and we continued our voyage at the ufual M.mday .17.
hour, when we fucceflively found feveral rapids and points to impede our
progrefs. At noon our latitude was 56. 5. 54. North. The Indians
killed a flag; and one of the men who went to fetch it was very much
endangered by the rolling down of a large flone from the heights above >
■him. ..,,,-., .. ■,;... , ,

•■ The day was very cloudy. The mountains on both fides of the river Tuefday 28.

feemcd to have funk, in their elevation, during the voyage of yefterday.

To-day they relumed their former altitude, and run fo clofe on cither fide

of the channel, that all view was excluded of every thing but themielves.

This part of the current was not broken by iflands; but in the afternoon

we approached fome cafcades, which obliged us to carry our canoe and

its lading for feveral hundred yards. Here we obfcrved an encampment

• Fidin fliis (lay, to tlic .\th of Juno tlic couili's of my vovagc nic omlttrtl, as I lud (lio book lli;il
rinil,iinc<l them. I Wiii in llic lial)lt of lomi-timci indulging myldf with a (lioit <l(izc in the lanoc, niul
1 iii>aginc that the braiuhcs of the tre&s brullivd my book from mc, wlieu I vvrfi iit itiiih a lltuittiuni
which renders the account of thule few dayt Icli diilin61 tiiait ul'ual.

iiii

".;■!!

iv*

i84

1793-

May.

""V~

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

of the natives, though feme time had elapfed fince it had been inhabited.
The greater part of the day was divided between heavy (bowers and fmall
rain ; and we took our ftation on the fliore about fix in the evening,
about three miles above the lafl rapid.

^ t -,

Wednef. 29. The rain was fo violent throughout the whole of this day, that we did
not venture to proceed. As we had almoft expended the contents of a
rum-kcg, and this being a day which allowed of no aftive employment, I
amufed myfelf with the experiment of enclofing a letter in it, and dif-
patching it down the Ilream, to take its fate. I according introduced a
written account of all our hardlhips, &c. carefully enclofed in bark, into
the fmall barrel by the bung-hole, which being carefully fecured, I con-
figned this epiftolatory cargo to the mercy of the current. '.

Thurfd. 30. We were alarmed this morning at break of day, by the continual bark-
ing of our dog, who never ceafed from running backwards and forwards
in the rear of our fituation : when, however, the day advanced, we dif-
covered thecaufe of our alarm to proceed from a wolf, who was parad-
ing a ridge a few yards behind us, and had been mofl: probably allured
by the fcent of our fmall portion of frefh meet. The weather was cloudy,
but it did not prevent us from renewing our progrels at a very early
hour. A confiderable river appeared from the left, and we continued
our courfe till feven in the evening, when we landed at night where
there was an Indian encampment. r, ,i

M .' ■.

TriJiiyai. The morning was clear and cold, and the current very powerful. On
crolTmg the mouth of a river that flowed in irom the right of us, wc

were

»'■»

il ' .

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

were very much endangered; indeed all the rivers which I have lately
feen, appear to overflow their natural limits, as it may be fuppofed, from
the melting of the mountain fnow. The water is almoft white, the bed
of the river being of lime-ftonCis The mountains are one folid mafs of
the fame materials, but without the leail fliade of trees, or decoration of
foliage. At nine the men were fo cold that we landed, in order to kindle
a fire, which was confidered as a very uncommon circumflance at this
feafon; a fmall quantity of rum, however, ferved as an adequate fub-
ftitute ; and the current being fo fmooth as to admit of the ufe of pad-
dles, I encouraged them to proceed without any further delay. In a
(hort time an extenfive view opened upon us, difplaying a beautiful (heet
of water, that was heightened by the calmnefs of the weather, and a
fplendid fun. Here the mountains, which were covered with wood,
opened on either fide, fo that we entertained the hope of foon leaving them
behind us. When we had got to the termination of this profpe6l, the
river was barred with rocks, forming cafcades and fmall illands. To pro-
ceed onwards, we were under the neccffity of clearing a narrow paflage
of the drift wood, on the left fliore. Here the view convinced us that
our late hopes were without foundation, as there appeared a ridge or
chain of mountains, running South and North as far as the eye could
reach. - s . • • . • '

185

'If-

tit, -,] 1

, .'4

»793-

li
It

Mav.

-V---

'• ' ')i

On advancing two or three miles, we arrived at the fork, one
branch running about Wed-North-Wefl, and tht! other South-South-
Eall. If I had been governed by my own judgment, I (liould have taken
the former, as it appeared to me to be the nod likely to bring us neareit
to the part where I wiOied to fall on the Paciiic Occun, but the old man,

B b whom

.•:»>

iH6

1793-
May.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

whom I have already mentioned as having been frequently on war ex-
peditions in this country, had warned me not, on any account, to follow
it, a^ it was foon loll in various branches among the mountains, and that
there was no great river that ran in any oireftion near it; but by follow-
ing the latter, he faid, we (hould arrive at a carrying-place to another large
river, that did not exceed a day's march, where the inhabitants build
houfes, and live upon iflands. There was fo much apparent truth in the
old man's narrative, that I determined to be governed by it ; for I did not
entertain the leaft doubt, if I could get into the other river, that I
(hould reach the ocean. "•

I accordingly ordered my fteerfman to proceed at once to the
Eaft branch, which appeared to be more rapid than the other, though
it did not poflefs an equal breadth. Thefe circumftances difpofed
my men and Indians, the latter in particular being very tired of the
voyage, to exprefs their wilhes that I fhould take the Weftern branch,
efpecially when they perceived the difficulty of Hemming the cur-
rent, in the direflion on which I had determined. Indeed the rufh of
water was fo powerful, that we were the greateft part of the afternoon
in getting two or th , s miles— a very tardy and mortifying progiefs, and
which, with the voyage, was openly execrated by many of thole who
were engaged in it: and the inexprelTible toil thefe people had endured,
as well as the dangers they had encountered, reqii.red fome degree of
confidcration ; I therefore employed thofe arguments which were the bed
calculated to calm their immediate difcontents, as well as to encournge
their future hopes, though, at the fame, time I delivered my fentimcnts in
fuch a manner as to convince them that I was determined to proceed.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

On the id of June we embarked at fun-rife, and towards noon the
current began tc flacken *, we then put to (hore, in order to gum the
canoe, when a meridian ahitude gav«? me 55. 42. 16. North latitude. We
then continued our courfe, and towards the evening the current began to
recover its former ftrengih. Mr. Mackay and the Indians had already
difembarked, to walk and lighten the boat. At fun-fet we encamped on
a point, being the firft dry land which had been found on this fide the
river, that was fit for our purpofe, fince our people went on fhore. In
the morning we pafled a large rapid river, that flowed in from the right.

In no part of the North- Weft did I fee fo much beaver-work, within
an equal diftance, as in the courfe of this day. In fome places they
bad cut down feveral acres of large poplars; and we faw alfo a
great number of thele a£live and fagacious animals. The time which
thefe wonderful creatures allot for their labours, whether in eredling
their curious habitations, or providing food, is the whole of the in-
terval between the fetting and the rifing fun. , ,

Towards the dufky part of the evening we heard feveral difcharges
from the fowling pieces of our people, which we anlwered, to in-
form them of our fituation ; and fome time after it was dark, they
arrived in an equal Hate of fatigue and alarm : they were alfo obliged to
fwim acrols a channel in order to get to us, as we were fuuated on an illaiid,
though we were ignorant of the circumflance, till they came t6 inform
us. One of the Indians was pofilive that he heard the dii'charge of fire-
arms above our encampment; and on comparing the number of our
diicharges with theirs, there appeared to be (bme foundation for his
f<. ; ti b 2 alarm,

187

' ^i"M

f.- m-'

i88

»793-
June.

— V —

' JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

alarm, as we imagined that we had heard two reports more than they
acknowledged; and, in their turn, they declared that they had heard"
twice the number of thofe which we knew had proceeded from us. The
Indians were therefore certain, that the Knifteneaux rauft be in our vici-
nity, on a war expedition, and confequently, if they were numerous, we
Ihould have had no reafon to expeft the leaft mercy from them in this
diftant country. Thjpugh I did not believe that circumftance, or that
any of the natives could be in pofleflion of fire-arms, I thought it right,
at all events, we fiiould be prepared. Our fufees were, therefore, primed
and loaded, and having extingttiflied our fire, each of us took his ftation
at the foot of a tree, where we paffed an uneafy and reftlefs night. *■

iU.

• The fucceeding morning being clear and pleafant, we proceeded at
an early hour againft a rapid current, interfered by iflands. About
eight we pafled two large -rees, whofe roots having been undermined
by the current, had recently fallen into the river; and, in my opi-
nion, the cra(h of their fall had occafioned the noife which caufed
our late alarm. In this manner the water ravages the iflands in
thefe rivers, and by driving down great quantities of wood, forms the
foundations of others. The men were fo opprefled with fatigue, that it
was neceffary they Oiould encamp at fix in the afternoon. We, there-
fore, landed on a fandy ifland, which is a very uncommon objc6t, as the
greater part of the iflands conGf^. of a bottom of round flones and
gravel, covered from three to ten feet with mud and old drift-wood.
Beaver-work was as frequently feen as on the precedmg day.

On the 3d of June we renewed our voyage with the rlfing fun. At
t . ■ noon

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NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

noon I obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 55. 22. 3. North lati-
tude. I alfo took time, and the watch was flow 1. 30. 14. apparent time.
According to my calculation, this place is about twenty-five miles South-
Eafl: of the fork.* -

• I fhall now proceed with my ufual regularity, which, as I have already mentioned, has been, for
fomc days, fufpended, from the lols of my book of obfervation.

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189

»793'
June,

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CHAP

{|l:« '. .Vli.i'

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

>793'
June.

Tucfday 4.

(J ,^Ol'K .

CHAPTER V.

. ;,-.> /■..>• •»

Continue our voyage. Heavy fog. The waier ri/es. Succejfion of courfes.
Progre/Jive account of this branch. Leave the canoe to proceed^ and
qfcend an hill to reconnoitre. Climb a tree to extend my view of the
country. Return to the river. The canoe not arrived. Go infearch of
it. Extreme heat, mufquitoes, &c. Increafing anxiety re/pe&ing the
canoe. It at length appears. Violent Jlorm. Circumjlances of our pro-
grefs. Forced to haul the canoe up the fir cam by the branches of trees.
Succefjion of courfes. Wild parfnips along the river. Expe6l to meet
with natives. Courfes continued. Fall in withfome natives. Our inter-
courfe with them. Account of their drefs, arms, utenjils, and manners,
&c. New difcouragements and difficulties prefent thernfelves.

VV E embarked this morning at four in a very heavy fog. The water
had been continually rifing, and, in many places, overflowed its banks.
The current alfo was fo ftrong, that our progrefs was very tedious, and
required the mod laborious exertions. Our courfe was this day, South-
South-Eall one mile, South-South-Wefl. half a mile, South-Eaft three
quarters of a mile, North-Eaft by Eaft three quarters of a mile, South-
Eaft half a mile, South-Eafl by South one mile, South-South-Eaft one
mile three quarters, South-Eall by South half a mile, Eaft by South a
( quarter

191

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

quarter of a mile, South-Eaft three quarters of a mile, North-Eaft by »793'
Eaft half a mile, Eaft by North a quarter of a mile, South-Eaft half a '■■ " »'■ " —'
mile, South-Eaft by South a quarter of a mile, South-Eaft by Eaft half
a mile, North-Eaft by Eaft half a mile, North-North-Eaft three quarters
of a mile, to South by Eaft one mile and an half. We could not find a
place fit for an encampment, till nine at night, when we landed on a
bank of gravel, of which little more appeared above water than the fpot
we occupied. •

This morning we found our canoe and baggage in the water, which Wednef. 5.
had continued rifing during the night. We then gummed the canoe, as
we arrived at too late an hour to perform that operation on the pre-
ceding evening. This neceflary bufinefs being completed, we traverfed
to the North fliore, where I difembarked with Mr. Mackay, and the
hunters, in order to afcend an adjacent mountain, with the hope of
obtaining a view of the interior part of the country. I direfted my
people to proceed with all polfible diligence, and that, if they met with
any accident, or found my return neceflary, they fliould fire two guns.
They alfo underftood, that when they ftiould hear the fame fignal from
me, they were to anfwer, and wait for me, if I were behind them.

When we had afcended to the fummit of the hill, we found that it
extended onwards in an even, level country ; fo that, encumbered as
we were, with the thick wood, no diftant view could be obtained ; I
therefore climbed a very lofty tree, from whofe top I difcerned on the
right a ridge of mountains covered with fnow, bearing about North-
Weft ; from thence another ridge of high land, wherfcon no fnow was

;!>•'.

'■ ^n„ t

' M

ii'l

A-

'.>ii,.>.

vifible,

192

»793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

vifible, ftretrhed towards the South ; between which and the fnowy hills
on the Eaft fide, there appeared to be an opening, which we determined
to be the courfe of the river. , , >. '

Having obtained all the fatisfaflion that the nature of the place would
admit, we proceeded forward to overtake the canoe, ^and after a warm
walk came down upon the river, when we difcharged our pieces twice, but
received no anfwering fignal. I was of opinion, that the canoe was be-
fore us, while the Indians entertained an oppofite notion. I, however,
crofFed another point of land, and came again to the waterfide about
ten. Here we had a long view of the river, which circumltance excited
in my mind, fome doubts of my former fentiments. We repeated our
fignals, but w^ithout any return ; and as every moment now increafed my
anxiety, I left Mr. Mackay and one of the Indians at this Ipot to make a
large fire, and fer 1 branches adrift down the current as notices of our
fituation, if the canoe was behind us; and proceeded with the other Indian
acrofs a very long point, where the river makes a confiderable bend, in
order that I might be fatisfied if the canoe was a-head. Having been
accuftomed, for the laft fortnight to very cold weather, I found the heat
of this day almolt infupportable, as our way lay over a dry land, which
was relieved by no fhade, but fuch as a few fcattered cypreffes could afford
us. About twelve we arrived once more at the river, and the difcharge of
our pieces was as unluccefsful as it had hitherto been. The water rulhed
before us with uncommon velocity ; and we alfo tried the experiment of
fending frefli branches down it. To add to the difagreeablenefs of our
fituation, the gnats and mufquitoes appeared in fwarms to torment us.
When we returned to our companions, we found that they had not been

contented

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

193

contented with remaining in the pofition where I had left them, but
had been three or four miles down the river, but were come back to '
their ftation, without having made any difcovery of the people on the
water. *- -^i-' • ^ " :>:' ■- ,''■■''■■'

Various very unpleafing conjeftures at once perplexed and diftreffed
us : the Indians, who are inclined to magnify evils of any and every
kind, had at once configned the canoe and every one on board it to
the bottom; and were already lettling a plan to return upon a raft,
as well as calculating the number of nights tliat v/ould be required to
reach their home. As for myfelf, it will be eafily believed, that my
mind was in a ftate of extreme agitation ; and the imprudence of my
conduft in leaving the people, in fuch a fituation of danger and toilfome
exertion, added a very painful mortification to the fevere apprehenfions
I already fuffered : it was an aft of indifcretion which might have put an
end to the voyage that I had fo much at heart, and compelled me at
length to fubmit to the fchcme which my hunters had already formed
for our return.

»793-
June.

t...'. ' Ol

,;.(,;.,;»..

At half pafl fix in the evening, Mr. Mackay and the Gancre fet off to
proceed down the river, as far as they could before the night came on,
and to continue their journey in the morning to the place where we had
encamped the preceding evening. I alfo propofed to make my ex-
curfion upwards ; and, if we both failed of "fuccefs in meeting the
canot, it was agreed that we fhduld return to the place where we now
feparated. . : ■ r- . i- -

nj- I

■):.}

l(j

194

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

In this fituation we had wherewithal to drink in plenty, but with
folid food we were totally unprovided. We had not feen even a partridge
throughout the day, and the tracks of rein-deer that we had difcovered,
were of an old date. We were, however, preparing to make a bed of
the branches of trees, where we Ihould have had no other canopy than
that afforded us by the heavens, when we heard a (hot, and foon after
another, which was the notice agreed upon, if Mr. Mackay and the In-
dian ihould fee the canoe: that fortunate circumftance was alfo confirmed
by a return of the fignal from the people. I was, however, fo fatigued
from the heat and exercife of the day, as well as incommoded from
drinking fo much cold water, that I did not wifh to remove till the
following morning; but the Indian made fuch bitter complaints of
the cold and hunger which he fuffered, that I complied with his felici-
tations to depart ; and it was almofl dark when we reached the canoe,
barefooted, and drenched with rain. But thefe inconvenier\c2S affefted
me very little, when I faw myfelf once more furrounded with my
people. They informed me, that the canoe had been broken ; and that
they had this day experienced much greater toil a '' hardfhips than
on any former occafion. I thought it prudent to affeft a belief of
every reprefentation that they made, and even to comfort each of
them with a confolatory dram : for, however difficult the palTage might
have been, it was too fhort to have occupied the whole day, if they
had not relaxed in their exertions. The rain was accompanied with
thunder and lightning, .v ., ... „..,.: ,:.,!.;..:,.

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It appeared from the various encampments which we had feen, and
from feveral paddles we had found, that the natives frequent this part of

■A :j -j the

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

J 95

»793.
June.

the country at the latter end of the fummer and the fall. The courfe
to day was nearly Eaft-South-Eaft two miles and an half, South by Weft
one mile, South-South-Eaft one mile and an half, Eaft two miles, and
South-Eafl by South one mile. ...

At half paft four this morning we continued our voyage, our courfes Thurfd»y6.
being South-Eaft by South one mile, Eaft by South three quarters of a
mile, South-Eaft by Eaft two miles. The whole of this diftance we
proceeded by hauling the canoe from branch to branch. The current
was fo ftrong, that it was impoftible to ftem it with the paddles ; the
depth was too great to receive any afliftance from the poles, and the
bank of the river was fo clofely lined with willows and other trees, that
it was impoftible to employ the line. As it was paft twelve before we
could find a place that would allow of our landing, I could not get a
meridian altitude. We occupied the reft of the day in repairing the
canoe, drying our cloaths, and making paddles and poles to replace
thofe which had been broken or loft.

The morning was clear and calm; and fince we had been at this Friday;.
ftation the water had rifen two inches; fo that the current became
ftill ftronger; and its velocity had already been fo great as to juf-
tify our defpair in getting up it, if we had not been fo long accuf-
tomed to furmount it. I laft night obferved an emerfion of Jupiter's
firft fatellite, but inadvertently went to bed, without committing the
exaft time to writing: if my memory is correft, it was 8. i8. lo.
by the time -piece. The canoe, which had been little better than
a wreck, being now repaired, we proceeded Eaft two miles and a
3.,, i C c 2 quarter,

■"■- WW

r}-

^"^lpif«

196

» 793-

Jui:C.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

quarter, Souih-South-Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft a quarter of a mile,
when we landed to take an altitude for time. We continued our route
at South-Ea{l by Eafl three quarters of a mile, and landed again to de-
termine the latitude, which is gc^. 2. j^i. To this I add, 2.45. Southing,
which will make the place of taking altitude for time 55. 5. 36. with
which I find that my time-piece was (low 1. 32. 23. apparent time; and
made the longitude obtained 122. 35. 50. Weft of Greenwich. . : , .

From this place we proceeded Eaft by South four miles andan half,
Eaft-South-Eaft one mile and an half, in which fpace there falls in a
fmall river from the Eaft ; Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft a mile and an
half, Eaft a quarter of a mile, and encamped at fcven o'clock. Mr.
Mackay and the hunters walked the greatcft part of the day, and in the
courfe of their excurfion killed a porcupine.* Here we found tiie bed
of a very large bear quite frefti. During the day feveral Indian encamp-
ments were feen, which were of a late ereftion. The current had alio
loft fomc of its impetuofity during the greater part of the day.

SatunUy 8. It rained and thundered through the night, and at four in the' morn-
ing we again encountered the current. Our courfe was Eaft a quarter of
a mile, round to South by Eaft along a very high white fandy bank on
the Eaft ftiore, three quarters of a mile, South-South-Eaft a quarter of a
mile, South-South- Weft a quarter of a mile, South-South-Eaft one mile
and a quarter, South-Eaft two miles, with a Hack current ; South-Eaft by

• Wc linil l)ccn obliged to indulge our luinlcrs with fitting idle in the canoe, Icfl their being torn-
I" lied to (hnro in the !«bi)ur of navigating it Ihould difgufl and drive them from ui. Wc, therefore,
employed ihcin aa much ai polTiblc on fliorc, ai well to procure provilioni ii to lighten the canoe.

Eaft

r v

197

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.
Eaft two miles and a quarter, Eafl; a quarter of a mile, South-South- 1793-

June.

Eall a quarter of a mile, South-Eaft by South four miles and an half, u \- *
South-Eaft one mile and an half, South-South- Weft half a mile, Eaft-
North-Eafl half a mile, Eaft-South-Eaft a quarter of a mile, South-Eaft
by South one mile, South-Eaft by Eaft half a mile, Eaft by South three
quarters of a mile, when the mountains were in full view in this direc-
tion, and Eaftward. For the three laft days we could only fee them at
{hort intervals and long diftances ; but till then, they were continually
in fight on either fide, from our entrance into the fork, Thofe to the
left were at no great diftance from us.

• For the laft two days we had been anxioufly looking out for the car-
rying-place, but could not difcover it, and our only hope was in fuch
information as we ftiould be able to procure from the natives. All that
remained for us to do, was to pufli forwards till the river ftiould be no
longer navigable : it had now, indeed, overflowed its banks, fo that it
was eight at night before we could difcover a place to encamp. Having
found plenty of wild parfneps, we gathered the tops, and boiled thera
with pemmican for our fupper. . .^ . i .

. . n /, , . .. . ... ..,. .<. ., , .. *.♦' i(I;j..s: ">;• iBili ,'}bii f),?*!' ?•••> -^f/ r,i \]o

The rain of this morning terminated in an heavy mift at half paft Sunday 9.
five, when we embarked and fleered South-Eaft one mile and an half,
when it veered North-North-Eafl half a mile, South-Eaft three quarters
of a mile, Eaft by South three quarters of a mile, Eaft-South-Eaft a
quarter of a mile, South-South-Eaft a quarter of a mile, South-Eaft by
Eaft one mile, Nonh-Eaft by Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft by Eaft half a
mile, South-Eaft by South three quarters of a mile, South-Eafl three
.-,' > quarters "

■y

198

»793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

quarters of a mile, Eafl: by South half a mile, South-Eaft by Eaft half a
mile, Eaft-North-Eafl three quarters of a mile, when it veered to South-
South-Eafl half a mile, then back to Eafl; (when a blue mountain, clear
of fnow, appeared a-hcad) one mile and an half; North-Eall by Eaft
half a mile, Eaft by North one mile, when it veered to South-Ead half
a mile, then on to North- Weft three quarters of a mile, and back to
North-Eaft by Eaft half a mile. South by Weft a quarter of a mile,
North-Eaft by Eaft to North-North-Eaft half a mile, South-South-Eall
a quarter of a mile, and Eaft by North half a mile : here we perceived a
fmell of fire ; and in a fliort time heard people in the woods, as if in a
ftate of great confufion, which was occafioned, as we afterwards under-
ftood, by their difcovery of us. At the fame time this unexpe6led cir-
cumftance produced fome little difcompofure among ourfelves, as our
arms were not in a ftate of preparation, and we were as yet unable to
afcertain the number of the party. I confidered, that if there were but
few it would be needlefs to purfue them, as it would not be probable
that we ftiould overtake them in thefe thick woods ; and if they were nu-
merous, it would be an a£l of great imprudence to .lake the attempt, at
leaft during their prefent alarm. I therefore ordered my people to ftrike
off to the oppofite fide, that we might fee if any of them had fufficient
courage to remain ; but, before we were half over the river, which, in
this part, is not more than an hundred yards wide, two men appeared on
a fifing ground over againft us, brandifliing their fpears, difnlaying their
bows and arrows, and accompanying their hcllile gcftures with loud
vociferations. My interpreter did not hefitale to afl'ure them, that they
might difpel their apprchenfions, as we were white people, who medi-
tated no injury, but were, on the contrary, defirous of demonf I rating
"!?».'!: If » every

north-west continent of AMERICA.

every mark of kindnefs and friendfhip. They did not, however, feem
difpofed to confide in our declarations, and a6lually threatened, if we
came over before they were more fully fatisfied of our peaceable inten-
tions, that they would difcharge their arrows at us. This was a decided
kind of condu6l which I did not expert ; at the fame time I readily com-
plied with their propofition, and after fome time had pafl'ed in hearing
and anfwering their queflions, they confented to our landing, though not
without betraying very evident fymptoms of fear and diftruft. They,
however, laid afide their weapons, and when I ftepped forward and took
each of them by the hand, one of them, but with a very tremulous aflion,
drew his knife from his fleeve, and prefented it to me as a mark of his
fubmiffion to my will and pleafure. On our firft hearing the noife of
thefe people in the woods, we difplayed our flag, which was now (hewn
to them as a token of friendfhip. They examined us, and every thing
about us, with a minute and fufpicious attention. They had heard, in-
deed, of white mcii, but this was the firft time that they had ever feen an
human being of a complexion different from their own. The parly had
been here but a few hours ; nor had they yet erefted their flieds ; and,
except the two men now with us, they had all fled, leaving their little
property behind them. To thofe which had given us fucli a proof of
their confidence, we paid the moll conciliating attentions in our power.
One of tliem I fcnt to recal his people, and the other, for very obvious
reafons, we kept with us. In the mean time the canoe was unloaded, tlie
nev^eilary baggage carried up the hill, and the tents pitchcd^.no-^ttt o t * >

199

«793-
June.

( !

Here I determined to remain till the Indians became fo familiarized
with us, as to give all the intelligence which we imagined might be ob«

tuined

.il'iW

' <i

200

June.
— ^ —

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

tained from them. In fa6l, it had been my intention to land where I
might mod probably difcover the carrying-place, which was our more
immediate objeft, and undertake marches of two or three days, in differ-
ent diredlions, in fearch of another river. If unfuccefsful in this attempt,
it was my purpofe to continue my progrefs up the prefent river, as far as
it was navigable, and if we did not meet with natives to inftruft us in
our further progrefs, I had determined to return to the fork, and take the
other branch, with the hope of better fortune.

>: J

It was about three in the afternoon when we landed, and at five the
whole party of Indians were afl'embled. It con filled only of three
men, three women, and feven or eight boys and girls. With their
fcratched legs, bbeding feet, and difhevelled hair, as in the hurry of their
flight they had left their fhoes and leggins behind them, they difplayed
a moft wretched appearance : they were confoled, however, with beads,
and other trifles, which feemed to pleafe them ; they had pemmican alfo
given them to eat, which was not unwelcome, and in our opinion, at
leaft, fupcrior to their own provifion, which confifted entirely of dried
fifli.

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When I thought that they were fufficiently compoled, I fent for the
men to my tent, to gain fuch information refpetling the country as I
concluded it was in their power to afford me. But my cxpeftations were
by no means fatisfied : they faid that they were not acquainted with any
river to the Weftward, but that there was one from whence they were
jull arrived, over a carrying-place of eleven days march, which they re-
prefcnted as being a branch only of the river before us. Their iron-
. :'.u''J work

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

work they obtained from the people who inhabit the bank of that river,
and an adjacent lake, in exchange for beaver fkins, and dreffed moofe
{kins. They reprefented the latter as travelling, during a moon, to get
to the country of other tribes, who live in houfes, with whom they traffic
for the fame commodities ; and that thefe alfo extend their journies in the
fame manner to the fea coalt, or, to ufe their expreffion, the Stinking
Lake, where they trade with people like us, that come there in velfels as
big as iflands. They added, that the people to the Weftward, as they
have been told, are very numerous. Thofe who inhabit the other branch
they flated as confifting of about forty families, while they themfelves
did not amount to more than a fourth of that number; and were
almoft continually compelled to remain in their ftrong holds, where
they fometimes perifhed with cold and hunger, to fecure themfelves from
their enemies, who never failed to attack them whenever an opportunity
prtlentcd iifelf ; ■. '" " '

•tiij ^s» ]fv*u' ^-n ,

,» (,

This account of the country, from a people who I had every reafon to
fuppofe were well acquainted with every part of it, threatened to difcon-
cert the projeft on which my heart was fet, and in which my whole
mind was occupied. It occurred to me, however, that from fear, or
oth^r motives, they might be tardy in their communication; I therefore
affured them that, if they would direft me to the river which I defcribed
to them, I would come in large veffels, like thofe that their tieighbours
haddcfcribed, to the mouth of it, and bring them arms and ammunition
in exchange for the produce of their country ; fo thdt the/ might be
able to defend themfelves againft their enemies, and np longer remain in
that abjefcl, dillrcflcd, and fugitive ftdtc in which they then lived. I

D d added

201

June.

^^' ;il

'!»'

■Ulf

2C2

\793-

Jmie.

PURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

added alfo, that in the mean time, if tliey would, on my return, accom-
pany me below the mountains, to a country which was very abundant in
animals, I would furnifh them, and their companions, with every thing
they might want; and make peace between them and the Beaver Indians.
But all thefe promifes did not appear to advance the obje6l of my in-
quiries, and they ftill perlifted in their ignorance of any fuch river as
I had mentioned, that difcharged itfelf into the fca. .j.^;, ^-, j, ,,. ,.,: .

\'ju. ev. ■ -rjiil-j'ii "ill ot 'AiV^'^'d orf; ? dJ .?>''-}>;; V>:' I' HbnrO' «. .,' V
In this llatc of perplexity and difappointment., various projefts pre-

fented themfelves to my mind, which were n'^ fooner formed than they
were dilcovered to be impracticable, and weic confequently abandoned.
At one time I tliought of leaying the canoe, and every thing it contained,
to go over land, and purfue that chain of connexion by which thefe
people obtain their iron-work ; but a very brief courfe of refle6lion con-
vinced me that it would De impoflible for us to carry provifions for our
fupport through any confiderable part of fuch a journey, as v.-ell as pre-
fents, to fecure us a kind receptioji among the natives, and ammunition
for the fervice of the hunterc, and to defend ourfelves againd any ad of
hoftility, At another time my folicitude for the fuccefs of the expedi-
tion incited a wifli to remain with the natives, and go to the If a by the
way they had defcribed ; but the accomplifhment of fuch p journey, even
if no accident ftiould interpofe, would have required a portion of time
which it was not in my power to beftow. In my prefent ftate of informa-
tion, to proceed further up the river was confidered as a fruitlefs walle of
toilfome exertion; and to return unfuccefsful, after all our labour, fuf-
fcrings, and dangers, was an idea too painful to indulge. Befides, I
could n. :. yet abandon the hope that the Indians might not yet be fut-

, . ficiently

2P3

»793-

June.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

ficiently compofed and confident, to difclofe their real knowledge of the
country freely and fully to me. Nor was I altogether without my
doubts refpefting the fidelity of my interpreter, who being very much
tired of the voyage, might be induced to withhold thofe communica-
tions which would induce me to continue it. I therefore continued my
attentions to the natives, regaled them with fuch provifions as I had,
indulged their children with a tafte of fugar, and determined to fufpend
my converfaiion with them till the following morning. On my ex-
prefling a defire to partake of their fifh, they brought me a few dried
trout, well cured, that had been taken in the river which they lately
left. One of the men alio brought me five beaver fkins, as a prefent.

The folicitude that pofTefled my mind interrupted my repofe ; when Monday :o.
the dawn appeared I had already quitted my bed, and was waiting with
impatience for another conference with the natives. The lun, how-
ever, had rifen before they left their leafy bowers, whither they, had re-
tired with their children, having mod hofpitably refigned their beds, and

the partners of them, to the folicitations of my young men,

f . ,. . ot'-.mJ m'jv il m -aU J'rjl ^vii sniby n.- » Jon .•-luiwil h't v/mI :v;r. -^jil i

"' I now repeated my inquiries, but my perplexity was not removed by any
favourable variation in their anfwers. About nine, however one of them,
flill remaining at my fire,in convetfation with the interpreters, I underflood
enough of his language to know that he mencioncd Ibmething about a
great river, at the fame time pointing fignificantly up that which was be-
fore us. On my inquiring of the interpreter refpefling that cxpreffion,
I was informed that he knew of a large river that rims tov.ards the mid-
day fun, a branch of which flowed near the fource of that which we

D d 2 were

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'I'

i04

>793-
Ju«e.

JOU^RNAL QF A VOYAQJ^, THROUGH TIi£

were now, navigating ; and that there were only three fmall lakes, and as
many Currying-places, leading to a fmall river, which diicharges itfelf into
the great river, bu.t that the latter did not empty itielf into the Tea. The
inhabitants, he faid, built houfes, lived on iflands, and were a numerous
and warlike people. I defired him to defcribe the road to the othct
river, by delineating it with a piece of coal, on a ftrip of bark, which
he accomplilhed to my fatisfaflion. The opinion that the river did not
difcharge itfelf into the fea, I very confidently imputed to his ignorance
of the country, ,,,^,v - ,;r| ^.,|j; :^y: :,,] Svf -/4.;,r.v,< ->] Jxii-b :. rinu-j-j

,j-.;4

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My hopes were now renewed, and an obje6l prefented itfelf which
awakened my utmoft impatience. To facilitate its attainment, one of
the Indians was induced, by prefents, to accompany me as a guide to
the firfl: inhabitants, which we i.iight expe6l to meet on the fmall lakes
in our way. I accordingly refolved to depart with all expedition, and
while my people were making every necefl'ary preparation, I employed
inyfelf in writing the following defcription of the natives around me :

They are low in ftature, not exceeding five feet fix or feven inches ; and

they arc of that meagre appearance which might be expefled in a people

whofe life is one fucceflion of difficulties, in procuring fubfiftence. Their

faces are round, with high cheek bones; and their eyes, which, are fmall,

are of a dark brown colour ; the cartilage of their nofe is perforated, but

without any ornaments fufpended from it; their hair is of a dingy black,

hanging loofe and in diforder over their (houlders, but irregularly cut in

the front, fo as not to obflruft the fight ; their beards are eradicated,

with the exceptioji of a few ftraggling hairs, and their complexio;* is a

fwarthy yellow. . , ^

Their

leave uncover

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.,

Their drefs confifts of robes made of the fkins of the beaver, the ground
hog, and the rein-deer, drefled in ihe hair, and of the moofe-flcin without '
it. All of them are ornamented with a fringe, while fome of them have
taffels hanging down the feams ; thofe of the ground hog are decorated
on the fur fide with the tails of the animal, which they do not fepa-
rate from them. Their garments they tie over the fhoulders, and farten
them round the middle with a belt of green fkin, which is as ftiff as
horn. Their leggins are long, and, if they were topped with a waiftband^
might be called trowfers: they, as well as their fhoes, are made of
drefled moofe, elk, or rein-deer flcin. The organs of generation they
leave uncovered. ' . ^ •:': |Ui * >, ; i>

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The women differ little in their drefs from the Lien, except in th«
addition of an apron, which is fattened round the waift, and hangs down
to the knees. They are in general of a more lufty make than the other
fex, and taller in proportion, but infinitely their inferiors in cleanlinefs.
A black artificial ftripe crofles the face beneath the eye, from ear to ear^
which I firft took for fcabs, from the accumulation of dirt on it. Their
hair, which is longer than that of the men, is divided from the forehead
to the crown, and drawn back in long plaits behind the ears. They have
alfo a few white beads, which they get where they procure their iron:
they are from a line to an inch in length, and are worn in their ears,
but are not of European manufaflure. Thcfc, with bracelets made
of horn and bone, compofe all the ornaments which decorate their per-
fons. Necklaces of the grifly or white bear's claws, are worn exclu-
fively by the men.

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June.

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206

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June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Their arms confift of bows made of cedar, fix feet in length, with a
fliort iron fpike at one end, and ferve occafionally as a fpear. Their
arrows are well made, barbed, and pointed with iron, flint, ftone, or bone;
they are feathered , and from two to two feet and an half in length.
They have two kinds of fpears, but both are double edged, and of well
poKfhed iron; one of them is about twelve inches long, and two wide;
the other about half the width, and two thirds of the length ; the (hafts
of the firfl are eight feet in length, and the latter fix. They have alfo
fpears made of bone. Their knives confift of pieces of iron, fhaped and
handled by themfelves. Their axes are fomething like our adze, and
they ufe them in the fame manner as we employ that in'trument. They
were, indeed, furnifhed with iron in a manner that I could no«^ have fup-
pofed, and plainly proved to me that their communication with thofe,
>yho communicate with the inhabitants of the fea coaft, cannot be very
difficult, and from their ample provifion of iron weapons, the means of
procuring it muft be of a more diftant origin than 1 had at firft conjec-
tured»

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They have fnares made of green fkin, which they cut to the fize of
fturgeon tv^ine, and twift a certain number of them together; and
though when completed they do not exceed the thicknefs of a cod line,
their lirength is fufficient to hold a moofe deer: they are from one and
an half to two fathoms in length. Their nets and fifhing lines are made ot
willow-bark and nettles; thofe made of the latter are finer andfmoother
than if made with hempen thread. Their hooks are fmall bones, fixed
in pieces of wood fplit for that purpofe, and tied round with fine
watape, which has been particularly defcribed in the former voyage.
. , , Their

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

Their kettles are alfo made of watape, which is fo clofely woven that
they never leak, and they heat water in them, by putting red-hot ftoncs
into it. There is one kind of them, made of fpruce-bark, which they
hang over the fire, but at fuch a diftance as to receive the heat without
being within reach of the blaze; a very tedious operation. They have
various di(hes of wood and bark ; fpoons of horn and wood, and buckets;
bags of leather and net-work, and baflcets of bark, fome of which hold
their fi(hing-tackle, while others are contrived to be carried on the back,
rhey have a brown kind of earth in great abundance, with which they
rub their clothes, not only for ornament but utility, as it prevents the
leather from becoming hard after it has been wetted. They have fpruce
bark in great plenty, with which they make their canoes, an operation
that does not require any great portion of fkill or ingenuity, and is
managed in the following manner. — The bark is taken off the tree the
whole length of the intended canoe, which is commonly about eighteen
feet, and is fewed with watape at both ends ; two laths are then laid, and
fixed along the edge of the bark which forms the gunwale ; in thefe
are fixed the bars, and againfl them bear the ribs or timbers, that are
cut to the length to which the bark can be ftretched; and, to give addi-
tional ftrength, flrips of wood are laid between them: to make the
whole water-tight, gum is abundantly employed. Thefe vefTels carry
from two to five people. Canoes of a fimilar conflruftion were ufed by
the Beaver Indians within thefe few year;, but they now very generally
employ thofe made of the bark of the birch tree, which are by far more
durable. Their paddles are about fix feet long, and about one foot is
occupied by the blade, which is in the fliape of an heart.

207

»793-
June

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2o8

>793'
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Previous to our departure, the natives had caught a couple of trout,
of about fix pounds weight, which they brought me, and I paid them
with beads. They likewife gave me a net, made of nettles, the fkin of
a moofe-deer, drefTed, and a white horn in the fliapc of a fpoon, which
refembles the horn of the buffalo of the Copper-Mine River; but their
defcription of tlie animal to which it belongs does not anfwer to that.
My young men alfo got two quivers of excellent arrows, a collar of
white bear s claws, of a great length, horn bracelets, and other articles,
for which they received an ample remuneration. nvDi' ;
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NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

209

., ..'siU ^& viHfcl i:c ihd iuj'h Jh ! :^4-» JCiOiV..,! br-vH isvii ji /nrlvr -i'mi fi '"• .^

CHAPTER VI.

■ •'.' noftv/ '>''.';i c'lo ;;ior

fc.

»:: :{p p Villi dhuii"^ '»::."

Continue the voydge: State of the river. Suctejj^onofcourfes. Sentiment'
^ of the guide. Conical mountain. Continuation of cmrfes. Leave the
main branch. Enter another. Defcriptionofit, Sam beaver. Enter a
take. Arrive' at the upper four ce of the UnjigaH, or Peace Rivet,
Land, and cYofs to a fecond lake. Local circumjlances. Proceed tod
third lake. Enter a river 4 Encounter various difficulties. In danger
(f being lojl. The circurnftances of that Jituation defer ibed. Alarm and
diffatisfoBion among the people They are at length compofed. The canoe
repaired. Roads ait through tobods. Pafs moraffes. The gUide defertsl
' After afucceffion of difficulties^ danger s^ and toilfome marches, we arriiH

tU the great river, '^'^*

.■Mill ''HO '^■'^ ■'' ''- " IhcM vli- hllktcf iiUioJ' yd

jLTl.T ten we were ready to embark. I then took leave of the Indians, Monday lo^
but encouraged them toexp^fl us in two moons, and exprefled an hops
that I (hould find therii on the road with any of their relations whom
they might meet. I alfo returned the beaver fkins to the man who had
prefented them to me, defiring him to take care of them till I came back}
when I would purchafe th^m of him. Our guide exprefled much lefs
concern about the undertaking in which he had engaged, than his com*
panions, who appeared to be afFe^ed with great ibHcitude fbr his
fafety.'io liiihy^ ^no iiaw-xirf/oc-^JOoB «'>is,-n r/io ilixii 'jiij r.uJi ilun
lls3[ E c We

June.

151;. 'fj

R^'|*:l

S:IQ

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

>793'
June.

\.^..'

We now pufticd oflF the canoe from the bank, and proceeded Eaft half
"^ a mile, when a river flowed in from the left, about half as large as that
which we were navigating. W* continued the fame courfe three quar-
ters of a mile, when we miffed two of our fowling pieces, which had been
forgotten, and I fent their owners back for them, who were abfent on
this errand upwards of an hour. We now proceeded Nprth-Eaft by
liail half a mile, North-Eaft by North three quarters of a mile, when the
CMcreDt flackened : tliere was a verdant fpot on the left, where, from
t,be remains of fome Indian t; aiber-work, it appeareJ, that the natives
have frequently encamped. Our next courie was Eail one mile, and
we faw a ridge of mount-iins covered with fnow to the South-Eaft. The
land on our right was low and marfhy for three or four miles, when it
rofe into a range of heights that exter^ded to the mountains. We pro-
ceeded Eafl-South'Eail a mile and an I^alf, South-Eaft by Ealt one mile,
Eaft by South three quarters of i inile, South-Eaft by Eaft one mile, Eaft
by South half a mile, North-Eaft by Eaft one mile, South-Eaft half a
mile, Eaft-North-Eaft a mile and a quarter, South-South-Eaft half a
mile, North-North-Eaft a mile and an half: here a river flowed in from
the left, vrhich was about one-fourth part as large as that which re-
ceived its tributary waters. We then continued Eaft by South half
« mile, to the foot of the mountain on the South of the above river.
The cburfc now veered fliort, South- Weil by Weft three quarters
of a mile, Eaft by South a quarter of a mile, South half a mile,
South-Eaft by Soutli half a mile, Soutli-iWcft a qtiafter of a mile, Eall
by South a qtiartcr of a mile, veered to ^ycfl1North■(Wcft a quarter of -a
mile, South- Weit one eighth of a raile, Eaft South-Eail one quarter of a
mile, Eaft one fixth of a mile, Soulh-South-Wcft one twelfth of a roile»
■ VV f 3 Eaft

NORTH .WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

2hi

«•,; ri

J';'- 1

June.

Eaft Sauth-Eaft one eighth of a mile, North-Eaft by Eaft one third of a
-nvAci Eaft by North one twelfth of a mile, North-Eall by Eaft one third
-of a mile, Eaft one fixteenth of a tnile, South-Eaft one twelftii of a
'mile, North-Eaft by Eaft one twelfth of a mile, Eaft one eighth of a
mile, and Eaft-South-Eaft half a mile, when we landed at feven o'clock
and encamped. During the greateft purt of the diftance we came to-
day, the river runs clofe under the mouqtains oa the left, t n lo dnuci

The morning was clear and cold.- On my interpreter's encouraging Tuefdny n,
the guide to difpei all apprehenfion, to maintain his iiflelity to me, and
not to dcfert in the night, ** Mow is it poflible for me," he replied, •*' to
" leave the lodge of the Great Spirit! — When he teWs me that he has no
" further octafion for me, I will then r<^turn to my children." As we
proceeded, how«^^%r, he foon loft, ^nd with good reafon, liis eicalted
notions of inc.

'ui I

').; » i:^:\'r..' ■•'rj

■ill

At Four we continued our voyage, fteering Eaft by South a mile and
an half, Eaft by Eaft half a mile. A river appeared on the left, at
the foot of a mountain wnich, from its conical form, my young
Indian called the Beaver Lodge Mountain. Having proceeded South-
South-Eaft half a mile, another river appeared from the right; We no^
came in a line with the beginning of the mountains we law yefter-
day: others of the fame kind ran p«*mllel with them on the left fide
of the river, which was reduced to the breadth of fifteen yards, and
with a moderate current,' '- umi- . .m ;...i lij;-) -1 ,» uii ■■<. k i >i!.j ,» a
«;!]!!',■ /vi r* u to f; v:! sai Jlti.;l'rlr../'i .'.'i(.i c '|r. iljihvM ii di-oil

We now fteered Eaft*Nox:th->Eaft one eighth ;of ji mile, StanthnEaft by
T'l (,(![. E e 2 South

i , .';*'■

»<;■'

« >i<

ti4

June.

• I • v

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

South one eighth of a mile, Eaft-South-Eaft one fixth of a mile, South-
' Weft one eighth of a mile, Eaft-South-Eaft one eighth of a mile, South-
South-Eaft one fixth of a mile, North-Eaft by Eaft one twelfth of a
mile, Eaft-South-Eaft half a mile, South- Weft by Weft on6 third of a
mile, South-South-Eaft one eighth of a mile, South-South-Weft one
quarter of a mile, North-Eaft one fixth of a mile. South by Weft one
fourth of a mile, Eaft three quarters of a mile, and North-Eaft one
quarter of a mile. Here the mountain on the left appeared to be com-
pofed of a fucceflion of round hills, covered with wood almoft to their
fummits, which were white with fnow, and crowned with withered trees.
•We now fleered Eaft, in a line with the high lands on the right five miles;
'North one twelfth of a mile, North'Eaft by North one eighth of a mile,
South by Eaft one fixtecnth of a mile, North-Eaft by North one fourth
'of a mile, where another river' fell in from the right ; North-Eaft by Eaft
one fixth of a mile, Eaft two miles and an half, South one twelfth of a
mile, North-Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft one third of a mile, Eaft one
Imile and a quarter, South-South- Weft one fixteenth of a mile, North-
Eaft by Eaft half a mile, Eaft one mile and three quarters, Squth and
Soulh-Weft by Weft half a mile, North-Eaft half a mile. South one third
of a mile, North-Eaft by North one fixth of a mile, Eaft by South one
fourth of a mile. South one eighth of a mile, South-Eaft thnee quarters of
« mile. The canoe had token in fo much water, that it was necelfary for
us to land here, in order to ftoptthp leakage, which occafioned the delay of
an hour and a quarter, North-Eaft a quarter of a mile, Eaft-North-Eatt
a quarter of a mile, South-Eaft by South a fixteenth of a mile, Eaft by
Sou'.h a twelfth of a mile, Nonh-Eaft one fixih of a mile, Eaft-South-
^aft one fixteenth of a mile, South- Weft half a mile, North-Eaft a

diu<.'C'.

quarter

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

215

quarter of a mile, Eafl: by South half a mile, South-Sou th-Eaft one
twelfth of a mile, Eaft half a mile, North-Eaft by North a quarter of
a mile, South-South-Eaft a quarter of a mile, North-Eaft by North one
twelfth of a mile, where a fmall river flowed in from the left, South-
Eaft by Eaft one twelfth of a mile. South by Eaft a quarter of a mile,
South-Eaft one eighth of a mile, Eaft one twelfth of a mile, North-Eaft
by North a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, South-Eaft by South
one eighth of a mile, North-Eaft one fourth of a mile, South-Eaft by
Eaft, and South-Eaft by South one third of a mile, Eaft-South-Eaft, and
North- North- Eaft one third of a mile, and South by Weft, Eaft and
Eaft-North-Eaft one eighth of a mile. : i i«: 'i' v >• »r ' '' ' •

»793-

June.

i,\i

f h>.::

> '■■''.

Here we quitted the main branch, which, according to the informa-
tion of our guide, terminates at a {hort diftance, where it is fupplied by
the fiiow which covers the mountains. In the fame direftion is a valley
which appears to be of very great depth, and is full of fnow, that rifes
nearly to the height of the land, and forms a refervoir of itfelf fufticient
lo furnifli a river, whenever there is a moderate degree of heat. The
branch which we left was not, at this time, more than ten yards broad,
while that which we entered was ftill iefs. Here the current was very
trifling, and the channel fo meandering, that we fometimes found it dif-
ficult to work the canoe forward. The ftraight courfe from this to
the entrance of a fmall lake or pond, is about Eaft one mile. This
entrance by the river into the lake was almoft choked up by a
quantity of drift-wood, which appeared to me to be an extraordi*.
nary circumftancc ; but I aftcrwaids found that it falls down from
the mountains. The watcr.| however, was fo high, that the country

was

i lif

■■( »,«

.rv

2l6

«793-
June,

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

WAS Entirely overflowed, and we pafled with the canoe amOng' the
branches of trees. The principal wood along the banks is fpruce,
intermixed with a few white birch, growing on detached fpots, the
intervening fpaces being covered with willow and alder. We ad-
vanced about a mile in the lake, and took up our llation for he night
at an old Indian encampment. Here we expefted to meet with natives,
but were difappointed ; but our guide encouraged us with the hope of
feeing fome on the morrow. We faw beaver in the courfe of the after-
noon, but did not difcharge our pieces, from the fear of alarming the
inhabitants; there were alio fwans in great numbers, with geefe and
ducks, which we did not diflurb for the fame reafon. We obferved alfo
the tracks of moofe-deer that had crofled the river; and wild narfneps
grew here in abundance, which have been already mentioned iis a grate-
ful vegetable. Of birds, we faw blue jays, yellow birds, and one beauti-
ful humming-bird : of the firft and laft, I had noi feen any fince I had
been in the North-^^Vft. • ^ * * ■ ^* " "'■' - '

, (ifim.

tiA

U •■ fii

The weather was the fame as yefterd?y, and we proceeded between three
and four in the morning. We took up the net which we had fet the pre-
ceding evening, when it contained a trout, one white fiih, one carp, and
three jub. The lake is about two miles in length, Eaft by South, and from
three to five^ hundred yards wide. This I confider as tb-* higheft and
Southernmoft fource of the Unjigah, or Peace River, latitude, 54. 24.
•Norih, longitude 121. Well of Greenv;ich, which, after a winding courfe
through a vaft extent of country, receiving many large rivers in its pro-
-grefs, and pulTing through the Slave Lake, empties itftlf into the FroacB
Ocean, in 70. North latitude, ^nd about 1 35 Weil longitude.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

- We landed and unloaded, where we found a beaten path leading
over a low ridge of land of eight hundred and feventeen paqes in length
to another frnall lake. The dillance between the two mountains at thi^
place is about a quarter of a mile, rocky precipices prefenting then^-i
felves on both fides. A few large fpruce trees and liard^ were feat"
tercd over the carrying-place. There were alfo willows along th^
fide of the water, with plenty of grafs and weeds. The natives had left
their old canoes here, with bafkets hanging on the trees, which contained
various articles. From the latter I took a net, fome hooks, a goat's-
horn, and a kind of wooden trap, in which, as our guide informed me,
the ground-hog is taken. I left, however, in exchange, a 'inife, fomo
fire-fteels, beads, awls, &c. Here two fti earns tumble down the rocks
from tne right, and lofe themfelves in the lake ' hich we had left; while
two others fall from the oppofite heights, and glide into the lake which
we were approaching; this being the higheft point of land dividing thefe
waters, and we are new going with the ftream. This lake runs in the fame
courfe as the laft, but is rather narrower, and not more than half the length.
We were obliged to clear away fome floating drift-wood to get to the
carrying-place, over which is a beaten path of only an hundred and
fevcnty-five paces long. The lake empties itfelf by a fmall river, which,
if the channel were not interrupted by large trees that had fallen acrofs
it, would have admitted of our c.nnoe with all its lading: the impedi-
ment, indeed, might have been removed Ly two axe-men in a few hours.
On the edge of the waiei, we obfcrved a large quantity of thick, yellow,
fcum or froth, of an acrid taile and fmelU > • -

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2l8

1793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

We embarked on this lake, which is in the fame courfe, and about
the fame fize as that which wehadjuft left, and from whence we pafl'ed
into a fmall river, that was fo full of fallen wood, as to employ feme
tkne, and require fome exertion, to 'orce a paffage. At the entrance, it
afforded no more water than was juft fufficient to bear the canoe ; but* it
Was foon increafed by many fmall ftreams which came in broken rills
down the rugged (ides of the mountains, and were furnilhed, as I fup-
pofe, by the melting of the fnow. Thefe acceffory ftreamlets had ail ih^
eoldnefs of ice. Our courfe continued to be obflrufted by banks of
gravel, as well as trees which had fallen acrofs the river. We were
obliged to force our way through the one, and to cut through the other,
at a great expence of time and trouble. In many places the current
was alfo very rapid and meandering. At four in the afternoon, we
flopped to unload and carry, and at five we entered a fmall round lake
of about one third of a mile in diameter. From the lad lake to this
is, I think, in a (Iraight line, £a(t by South fix miles, though it is twice
that diftance by the winding of the river. We again entered the river,
which foon ran with great rapidity, and rufh^d impetuoufly over a bed of
flat ftones. At half pad fix we were flopped by two large trees that lay
acrofs the river, and it was with great difficulty that the canoe was pre-
vented from driving againfl them. Here we unloaded and formed our
encampment.

». * • ( f s »

The weather was cloudy and raw, and as the circumftances of this
day's voyage had compelled us to be frequently in the water, which
v.as cold as ice, we were almofl in a benumbed flate. Some of the
people who had gone afhore to lighten the canoe, experienced groat dif-
ficulty

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF /AMERICA.

ficulty in reaching us, from the rugged ftate of the country ; it was, in-
deed, almofl; dark when they arrived. We had no Iboner landed than
I fent two men down the river to bring me fome account of its circum-
flances, that I might form a judgment of the difficulties which might
await us on the morrow; and they brought back a ft^arful detail of rapid
currents, fallen trees, and large ftones. At this place our guide mani-
fefted evident fymptoms of difcontent : he had been very much alarmed
in going down fome of the rapids with us, and exprefled an anxiety to
return. He Ihewed us a mountain, at no great diftance, which he re-
prefented as being on the other fide of a river, into which this emptief*

217

1793-

June.

•i ;

ir *■•'

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.. .'•. »..t .. i M.

At an early hour of this morning the men began to cut a road, in Thurfdayij.
order to carry the canoe and lading beyond the rapid; and by feven they
were ready. That bufinefs was foon effefled, and the canoe reladen,
to proceed with the current which ran with great rapidity. In order to
lighten her, it was my intention to walk with fome of the people ; but
thofc in the boat with great carneftnefs rcquefted me to embark, de-
claring, at the fame time, that, if they perifhed, I fhould perifii with
them. I did not then imagine in how {hort a period their apprchenfion
would be iuftified. We accordingly pufhed off, and had proceeded but
a very fhort way when the canoe Ilrnck, and notwuhflanding all our ex-
ertions, the violence of the current was fo great as to drive her fideways
down the river, and break her by the firR bar, when I inRanlly jumped
into the water, and the men followed my example ; but before we could
ft-t her flraight, or (Icip luv, wc came to deeper water, i^o that we were
obliged to rc-:mbark with the utmofl. jirccipitation. One of the men

F f Avho

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2l8

»793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH 1 HE

who was not fufficiently aflive, was left to get on fhore in the bell man-
ner in his power. We had hardly regained our fituations when we
drove againfl a rock which fliattered the Hern of the canoe in fuch a
manner, that it held only by the gunwales, fo that the fteerfman could
no longer keep his place. The violence of this flroke drove us to the
oppofite fide of the river, which is but narrow, when the bow met wiih
the fame fate as the ftern. At this moment the foreman feized on fome
branches of a fmall tree in the hope of bringing up the canoe, but fuch
was their elafticity that, in a manner not ealily defcribed, he was jerked
on fhore in an inflant, and with a degree of violence that threatened his
deflru6tion. But we had no time to turn from our own fituation to inquire
what had befallen him ; for, in a few moments, we came acrofs a cafcade
which broke feveral large holes in the bottom of the canoe, and itarted
all the bars, except one behind the fcooping feat. If this accident, how-
ever, had not happened, the veflel mud have been irretrievably overfet.
The wreck becoming flat on the water, we all jumped out, while the
Ileerfman, who had been compelled to abandon his place, and had not
recovered from his fright, called out to his companions to lave themfelves.
My peremptory commands fuperfeded the effefts of his fear, and they all
held faft to the wreck; to which fortunate refolution we owed our fafcty,
as we fhould otherwife have been dalhcd againll the rocks by the force
of the water, or driven over the calcades. In tiiis condition we were
forced fevcral hundred yards, and every yard on the verge of dcftru61ion ;
but, at length, we mofl fortunately arrived in (hallow water and a fmall
eddy, where we were enabled to make a Hand, from the weight of the canoe
icfling on the flones, rather than from any exertions of our exhaultcd
Urength. For though our cll'orts were fhort, they were puflied to the

utmoft.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

utmoft, as life or death depended on them. This alarming fcene, with
all its terrors and dangers, occupied only a few minutes ; and in the pre-
fent fufpenfion of it, we called to the people on fhore to come to our
afliftance, and they immediately obeyed the fummons. The foreman,
however, was the firfl; with us ; he had efcaped unhurt from the extraor-
dinary jerk with which he was thrcvn out of the boat, and juft as we
were beginning to take our effefts out of the water, he appeared to give his
affiftance. The Indians, when they faw our deplorable fituation, inltead
of making the lead effort to help us, fat down and gave vent to their
tears. I was on the outfide of the canoe, where I remained till every
thing was got on fhore, in a flate of great pain from the extreme cold of
the water ; fo that at length, it was with difficulty I could fland, from
the benumbed (late of my limbs. : ..

219

»793'
June.

The lofs was confiderable and important, for it confifled of our whole
flock of balls, and fome of our furniture; but thefe confiderations were
forgotten in the imprefTions of our miraculous efcape. Our firfl inquiry
was after the abfent man, whom in the firfl moment of danger, we had left
to get on fhore, and in a fhort time his appearance removed our anxiety.
We had, however, fuflained no perfonal injury of confcquence, and my
bruifes fecmed to be in the greater proportion.

All the different articles were now fpread out to dry. The powder

had fortunately received no damage, and all my inflrunicnts had elcapcd.

Indeed, when my people began to recover from their alarm, and to enjoy

a fenfe of fafety, fome of them, if not all, were by no means forry for

',:;:r.r.f.vi * " Ff2 our

'■'■ V

220

June.

^. I

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

our late misfortune, from the hope that it mud put a period to our
voyage, particularly as we were without a canoe, and all the bullets funk
in the river. It did not, indeed, feem }X)nible to them that we could pro-
ceed under thefe circumllances. I liftened, however, to the obfervations
that were made on the occafion without replying to them, till their panic
was difpelled, and they had got themfelves warm and comfortable, with
an hearty meal, and rum enough to raife their fpirits. < : • ,; Vi' ■■■

I then addreffed them, by recommending them all to be thankful
for their late very narrow efcape. I alfo ftated, that the navigation
was not impraflicable in itfelf, but from our ignorance of its courfe;
and that our late experience would enable us to purfue our voyage
with greater fecurity. I brought to their recolle6lion, that I did not
deceive them, and that they were made acquainted with the diffi-
culties and dangers they mud expe6l to encounter, before they en-
gaged to accompany me. I alfo urged the honour of conquering dif-
afters, and the difgrace that would attend them on their return home,
without having attained the obje6l of the expedition. Nor did I fail
to mention the courage and refolution which was the peculiar boaft of
the North men ; and that I depended on them, at that moment, for the
maintenance of their charafter. I quieted their apprchenfion as to the
lofs of the bullets, by bringing to their recolleftion that we flill had fhot
from which they might be manufa6lured. I at the fame time acknow-
ledged the difficulty of redoring the wreck of the canoe, but confided in
our fkill and exertion to put it in fuch a Ilatc as would carry us on to
where we might procure bark^ and build a new one. In fhort, my ha-
' rangue

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. I

vangue produced the defired cffeft, and a very general afTent appeared to
go wherever I fhould lead the way.

Various opinions were offered in the prefent pofture of affairs, and it
was rather a general wifh that the wreck fliould be abandoned, and all
the lading carried to the river, which our guide informed us wa« at no
great diltance, and in the vicinity of woods where he believed there was
plenty of bark. This projeft feemed not to promife that certainty, to
which I looked in my prefent operations; befides, I had my doubts ref-
pefting the views of my guide, and confequently could not confide in the
reprefentation he made to me. I therefore difpatched two of the men
at nine in the morning, with one of the young Indians, for I did not
venture to truft the guide out of my fight, in fcarch of bark, and to
endeavour, if it were poffible^ in the courfe of the day, to penetrate to
the great river, into which that before us difcharges itfclf in the direc-
tion which the guide had communicated. I now joined my people
in order to repair, as well as circumftances would admit, our wreck of
a canoe, and I began to fet them the example.

At noon I had an altitude, which gave 54. 23. North latitude. Af
four in the afternoon I took time, with the hope that in the night I might
obtain an oblervation of Jupiter, and his fatellites, but I had not a fufli-
cient horizon, from the propinquity of the mountains. The refult of
my calculation for time was 1. 38. 28. flow apparent time.

It now grew late, and the people who had been fent on the ex-
curfion already n entioned, were not yet returned ; about ten o'clock,

however.

221

>793-
June.

.ijilL'^J

,l?v:

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Wmm

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^2%

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

»793-
June.

however, I heard a man halloo, and I very gladly returned the fignal.
In a fliort time our young Indian arrived with a Imali roll of indifferent
bark : he was opprefl'ed with fatigue and hunger, and his clothes torn to
rags : he had parted with the other two men at fun-let, who had walked
the whole day, in a dreadful country, without procuring any good bark,
or being able to get to the large river. His account of the river, on whofe
banks we were, could not be more unfavourable or difcouraging; it had
appeared to him to be little more than a fucceffion of falls and rapids,
with occafional interruptions of fallen trees. "

'.( I

Our guide became fo dilfatisfied and troubled in mind, that we could
not obtain from him any regular account of the country before us. All
we could colleft from him was, that the river into which this empties
itfelf is but a branch of a large river, the great fork being at no great dif-
tance from the confluence of this; and that he knew of no lake, or large
body of ftill water, in the vicinity of thefe rivers. To this account of
the country, he added fome flrange, fanciful, but terrifying defcrip-
tions of the natives, fimilar to thofe which were mentioned in the former
voyage,

- . • {. ■ . - . .,,-,•,,; ... .,■ .^ - .. . . ' T .-.•.■
We had an efcape this day, which I mufl add to the many inflances of
good fortune which I experienced in this perilous expedition. The
powder had been fpread out, to the amount of eighty pounds weight, to
receive the air; and, in this fituation, one of the men carelelsly and
compofedly walked acrofs it witii a lighted pipe in his mouth, but with-
out any ill confequence refulting from fuch an a6l of criminal negligence.
I need not add that one fpark might have put a period to all my anxiety
and ambition. , .

I obferved

V NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

I obferved feveral trees and plants on the banks of this river, which I
had not feen to the North of the latitude 52. fuch as the cedar, maplej
hemlock, &c. At this time the water rofe faft, and pafled on with the
rapidity of an arrow fliot from a bow. -i 1 ■ ; • ' • '

223

1793-

June.

The weather was fine, clear, and warm, and at an early hour of the Fridays*
morning we refumed our repair of the canoe. At half paft feven our
two men returned hungry and cold, not having tafted food, or enjoyed
the leafl repofe for twenty-four hours, with their clothes torn into tatters,
and their fkin lacerated, in paffing through the woods. Their account
was the fame as that brought by the Indian, with this exception, that they
had reafon to think they faw the river, or branch which our guide had
mentioned; but they were of opinion that from the frequent obftru6lions
in this river, we Ihould have»to carry the whole way to it, through a
dreadful country, where much time and labour would be required to
open a pall'age through it. v ' .

Difcouraging as thefe accounts were, they did not, however, interrupt
for a moment the talk in which we were engaged, of repairing the canoe;
and this work we contrived to complete by the conclufion of the day.
The bark which was brought by the Indian, with fome pieces of oil-
cloth, and plenty of gum, enabled us to put our fhattered vcflel in a con-
dition to anfwer our prefent purpoles. The guide, who has been men-
tioned as manifefting continual figns of dilTatisfaftion, nowafTumed an air
of contentment, which I attributed to a fmoke that was vifible in the
direftion of the river ; as he naturally expefted, if we (liould fall in with
any natives, which was now very probable, from fuch a circuniftance,

• that

224

1793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

that he fhould be releafed from a fcrvlce which he had found fo irkfome
and full of danger. I had an oblervation at noon, which made our lati-
tude 54. 23. 43. North. I alfo took time, and found it flow apparent
time 1. 38. 44. , .^^:,^vi v,:i: ,;t j; - , ,;,i.if'--'

'/■J..

yatuiday 15. The wcather continued the fame as the preceding day, and according to
the direftions which I had previoufly given, my people began at a very early
hour to open a road, through which we might carry a part of our lading ;
as I was fearful of rifquing the whole of it in the canoe, in its prefcnt
weak Hate, and in a part of the river which is full of Ihoals and rapids.
Four men were employed to condu61 her, lightened as flie w^as of twelve
packages. They palled feveral dangerous places, and met with various
obflrutlions, the current of the river being frequently (lopped by rafts
of drift wood, and fallen trees, fo that after fourteen hours hard labour
we had not made more than three miles. Our courfc was South-Eafl
by Eail, and as we had not met with any accident, the men appeared to
feel a renewed courage to continue their voyage. In the morning, how-
ever, one of thecrew.whofe name was Beauchamp, peremptorily refund
to embark in the canoe. This being the lirll example of abfolutc dif-
obediencc which had yet appeared during the courfe of our expedition,
I fliould not have palfeti it over wilhoiit taking fomc very fevere means
to prevent a repetition of it; but as he had tlir general charadcr of a
fimplc fellow, among his companions, and had been frightened out of
what little fenfe he poilefrcd, by our late dangers, I rather preferred to
confider him as unworthy of accompanying us, and to reprefcnt him
as an objc61 of ridicule and contempt for his jjufilianimous behaviour;
thou|;h, in iixCi, ho was a very ufcful, adivc, and luboiiuus man. ' ^ ■

225

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

At the clofe of the day we aflembled round a blazing fire ; and the »793'
whole party, being enlivened with the ufual beverage which I fupplied <— -<» ^
on thefe occafions, forgot their fatigues and apprchenfions ; nor did
they fail to anticipate the plcafure they (liould enjoy in getting clear
of their prefent difficulties, and gliding onwards with a Urong and (leady
llream, w^hich our guide had defcribcd as the chara6lcri(tic of the large
river we foon expeftcd to enter.

The fine weather continued, and we began our work, as we had done Sunday i6«
the preceding day; fome were occupied in opening a road, others were
carrying, and the reft employed in conducing the canoe. ■! was of the
firft party, and foon difcovercd that we had encamped about half
a mile above ieveral fiills, over which we could not attempt to run the
canoe, lightened even as fhe was. This circumftance rendered it necef-
fary that the road fiiould be made fulficiently wide to admit the canoe to
pafs; a tedious and toilfome work. In running her down a rapid above
the falls, an hole was broken in her bottom, which occafioned a confi-
dcrable delay, as wc were dcftitute of the materials necelliiry for her
eire6lual reparation. On my being informed of this misfortune, I re-
turned, and ordered Mr. Mackay, with two Indians, to quit their occu-
pation in making the road, and endeavour to penetrate to the great
river, according to the dire61ion which the guide had communicated,
without paying any attention to the courfe of the river before us.

When the people had repaired the canoe in the bed manner they were
able, wc conduced her to tlic head of the falls; ftic was then unloaded
and taken out of the water, when we carried her for a confidcrablc dif-

G g tancc

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226

»793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

tance through a low, fwampy country. I appointed four men to this
laborious oflice, which they executed at the peril of their lives, for the
canoe was now become fo heavy, from the additional quantity of bark
and gum neceffary to patch her up, that two men could not carry her
hiore than an hundred yards, without being relieved ; and as their way
lay through deep mud, which was rendered more difficult by the roots
and proflrate trunks of trees, they were every moment in danger of fall-
ing; and beneath fuch a weight, one falfe Ilcp might have been attended
with fatal confequences. The other two men and myfelf followed as fail
as we could, with the lading. Thus did we toil till (even o'clock in the
evening, to get to the termination of the road that had been made in the
morning. Here Mr. Mackay and the Indian joined us, after having been
at the river, which they reprefented as rather large. They had alfo ob-
ferved, that the lower part of the river before us was fo full of fallen wood,
that the attempt to clear a paffage through it, would be an unavailing
labour. The country through which they had palfed was morafs, and
almoft impenetrable wood. In pafling over one of the embarras, our dog,
which was following them, fell in, and it was with very great difficulty
that he was faved, as the current had carried him under the drift. They
brought with them two geefe, which had been (hot in the courfe of their
expedition. To add to our perplexities and embarralfments, we were
perfecuted by mufquitoes and fand-flies, through the whole of the day.

The extent of our journey was not more than two miles South-Eafl:;
and lb much fatigue and pain had been fullered in the courfe of it, that
my people, as might be cxpetlcd, looked forward to u continuance of
it with difcourugcment and dilinay. I was, indeed, informed that nnir-

murs

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

227

murs prevailed among them, of which, however, I took no notice. »793«

June.

When we were aflembled together for the night, I gave each of them a *^ — v '

dram, and in a (hort time they retired to the repofe which they fo much
required. We could difcover the termination of the mountains at a
confiderable diftance on either fide of us, which, according to my con-
je6lure, marked the courfe of the great river. On the mountains to the
Eaft there were feveral fires, as their finokes were very vifible to us.
Exceflive heat prevailed throughout the day.

Having fat up till twelve lall night, which had been my conftant prac- Monday 17.
tice fince we had taken our prefent guide, I awoke Mr. Mackay to watch
him in turn. I then laid down to relt, and at three I was awakened
to be informed thuL he had deferted. Mr. Mackay, with whom I was
difpleafed on this occafion, and the Cancre, accompanied by the dog,
went in fearch of him, but he had made his efcape : a defign which he
had for fomc time meditated, though I had done every thing in my power
to induce him to remain with me.

This misfortune did not produce any relaxation in our exertions.
At an early hour of the morning we were all employed in cutting a pal-
fage of three quarters of a mile, through which we carried our canoe and
cargo, when wo put her into the water with her lading, but in a very
(hort time were llopprd by the drift-wood, and were obliged to land
and carry. In (hort, we purfued our alternate journies, by land and
water, till noon, when we could proceed no further, from the various
fmall unii.ivigahle channels into which the river branehei in every di-
rcdion; uud no other mode of getting forward now remained for us, but

Gga by

■ii

<liit '

I <

i -.|-

228

'793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

by cutting a road acrofs a neck of land. I accordingly difpatched two
men to al'certain the exa6l dillance, and we employed the interval of their
abl'ence in unloading and getting the canoe out of the water. It was
eight in the evening when we arrived at the bank of the great river.
This journey was three quarters of a mile Eaft-North-Eaft, through a
continued fwamp, where, in many places, we waded up to the middle of
our thighs. Our courfein the fmall river was about South-Eaft by Eaft
three miles. At length we enjoyed, after all our toil and anxiety, the in-
exprefllble fatisfa61ion of finding ourfelves on the bank of a navigable
river, on the Well fide of the firlt great range of mountains.

CHAP.

-i ,.' •»,,<«. I

.1 .!•.. ■ H »'

North-west CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

*> i

\ *: -•'.

CHAPTER VII.

: . ' r

->!'...-:'

Rainy night. Proceed on the great river. Circwmftances of it. Account
of courfes. Come to rapids. Obferve fever alfmokes. Sec a fight of white
ducks. Pafs over a carrying-place with the canoe, &c. The difficulties
of that paf age. Abundance of icild onions. Re-embark on the river. See
fome of the natives. Tlvy defert their camp and fly into the woods,
Courfes continued. Kill a red deer, ^c. Circuni/iances of the river.
Arrive at an Indian habitation. Defcription of it. Account of a curious
machine to catch f/h. Land to procure bark for the purpofe of corftruSl"
ing a n o canoe. Conceal a quantity of pemmican for pro\ ijion on our
return. Succeffion of courfes. Meet with fome of the natives. Our inter-
courfe with them. Their information refpeding the river, and the country,
Defcription of thofe people. • > ' '' '

It rained throughout the night and till fevcn in the morning; nor was ^■
I lorry that the weather gave me an excufe for indulging my people with
that additional red, which their fatigues, during the laft three days, ren-
dered io comfortable to them. Before eight, however, we were on the
water, and driven on by a Urong current, when we lleered EalUSouth-
Eail hall" a mile, South-Well by South lialf a mile, South-South-Eall
ludf a uiiluf South- Weil half a mile, went round to North- Welt half a

J mile,

229.

>793'
June.

— -^

uel'day i8.

1 I '

't I)

230

«793'
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

mile, backed South-South-Eaft three quarters of a mile, South-South-
Weft half a mile. South by Eaft a quarter of a mile, and Scuth-Wefl by
South three quarters of a mile. Here the water had fallen confiderably,
fo that feveral mud and land-banks were vifible. There was alfo an hill
ahead, Weft-South-Weft.

y-,r.

The weather was fo hazy that we could not fee acrofs the river, which
13 here about two hundred yards wide. We now proceeded South by
Weft one third of a mile, when we faw a confiderable quantiy of beaver
work along the banks, Nortl>North-We(L half a mile, South- Weft by
Weft one mile and an half, Soulh-South-Weft one third of a mile,
Weft by South one third of a mile. South by Eaft half a mile. Moun-
tains rofe on ihe left, immediately above the river, whofe funimits were
covered with fnow ; South-Weft half a mile, South a quarter of a mile,
South-Eaft one third of a mile, South-South-Weft half a mile. Here
are feveral illands, we then veered to Weft by South a third of a mile,
South-South-Eaft a fixth of a mile. On the right, the land is high,
rocky, and covered with wood, Weft South- Weft one mile, a fmall river
running in from the South-Eaft, South- Weft half a mile, South three
quarters of a mile, South-Weft half a mile, South by Weft half a mile.
Here a rocky point protrudes from the left, and narrows the river to an
hundred yards; South-Eaft half a mile, Eaft by South one eighth of a
mile. The current now was very ftrong, but perfeftly fafe, South-Eaft
by South an eighth of a mile. Weft by North one third of a mile. South
by Weft a twelfth of a mile, South-Weft one fourth of a mile. Here
the high land terminates on one fide of the river, while rocks rife to a
confiderable height immediately above the other, and the channel widens

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

to an hundred and fifty yards, Weft by South one mile. The river now
narrows again between rocks of a moderate height, North-North-Eaft an
eighth of a mile, veered to South- Weft an eighth of a mile, South and
South- Weft half a mile. The country appeared to be low, as far as I
could judge of it from the canoe, as the view is confined by woods at
the diftance of about an hundred yards from the banks. Our courfe
continued Weft by North two miles, North half a mile. North- Weft a
quarter of a mile, South- Weft two miles, North-Weft three quarters of a
mile ; when a ridge of high land appeared in this dire61ion. Weft one
mile. A fmall river flowed in from the North, South a quarter of a mile.
North- Weft half a mile, South-South-Weft two milts and an half, South-
Eaft three quarters of a mile; a rivuh t loft itfelf in the main ftream, Weft-
North- Weft half a mile. Here the current f-^rkened, and we proceeded
South-South- Weft three quarters of a mile, South- Weft three quarters of
a mile. South by Eaft three quarters of a mile, South-Eaft by Eaft one mile,
when it veered gradually to Weft North- Weft half a mile ; the river being
full of iflands. We proceeded due North, with little current, the river
prefenting a beautiful flieet of water for a mile and an half, South- Weft
by Weft one mile, Weft-North-Weft one mile, when it veered round to
S|0Uth-Eaft one mile. Weft by North one mile, South-Eaft one mile. Weft
by North three quarters of a mile, South one eighth of a mile, when we
came to an Indian cabin of late ereflion. Here was the great fork, of
which our guide had informed us, and it appeared to be the largeft branch
from the South-Eaft. It is about half a mile in breadth, and aflumes the
form of a lake. The current was very flack, and we got into the middle
of the channel, when we fleered Weft, and founded in fixteen feet water.
A ridge of high land now ilrctched on, as it were, acrofs our prefent
' . . dirc61ioa:

231

>793'
June.

":i •!■

■i^m

232

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

1793-
June.

P I I

dlreftion: this courfe was three miles. We then proceeded Wed-South-
Well two miles, and founded in twenty-four feet water. Here the river nar-
rowed and the current increafed. We then continued our courle North-
North- Weft three quarters of a mile, a fmall river falling in from the
North-Eaft. It now veere/! to S"^' h Ly Weft one mile and a quarter,
Weit-South-Weft four mile?, .n^ a- half. Weft by North one mile and a
quarter, North- Weft by Wei . .iile, Weft a mile and a quarter:
the land was high on both fides, and ti.. 'iver narrowed to an hundred
and fifty, or two hundred yards ; North-Weft three quarters of a mile.
South- Weft by South two miles and an half: here its breadth again
increafed; South by Weft one mile, Weft-South-Weft half a mile, South-
Weft by South three miles, South-South-Eaft one mile, with a fmall
liver running in from the left, South with a ilrong current one mile, then
Eaft three quarters of a mile, South- Weft one mile, South-South-Eaft
a mile and an half; the four laft diftances being a continual rapid ; South-
Weft by Weft one mile, Eaft-North-Eaft a mile and an half, Eaft-So. Ji-
Eaft one mile, where a fmall river flowed in on the right; South-Weft
by South two miles and an half, when another fmall river appeared from
the fame quarter ; South by Eaft half a mile, and South-Weft by Weft
one mile and a quarter : here we landed for the night. When we had
pafted the laft river we obferved fmoke riling from it, as if produced by
fires that had been frelh lighted; I therefore concluded that there were
natives on its banks; bat 1 was unwilling to fatigue my people, by
pulling back againft the current in order to go in fearch of them.

." This river appeared, from its high water-mark, to have fallen no more
than one foot, whiJc the fmalkr branch, from a fimilar meafurcment, had
:;^^»"*!r^ ftink

1 i'ii

•NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

233

*793«
June.

funk two feet and an half. On our entering it, we faw a flock of ducks
whioh 'Were entirely white, except the bill and part of the wings. The
weather was cold and raw throughout the day, and the wind South-Weft.
We faw fmofce rifing in columns from many parts of the woods, and I
fhould have been more anxious to fse the natives, if there had been any
perfon with me who could have introduced me tO'«hem;')buit as that
objeft could not be then attained without confiderable lols oftiivie,! de-
termined to purfue the navigation while it continued to be fo favourablci
and to wait till my return, if no very convenient opportunii of^^red in
the mean lime, to engage in an intercourfe with them. ir^iui ^■^i.u.il

. •■ . ■ - . - , . ..... . t -.wci ,n.'': ■ •' '■•■

: The morning was foggy, attd at tliree we weft htx the watf . At half Wednef. 19.
paft that hour, our courfe was Eaft by South three quai ts of a mile, a
fmall river flowing in irom the right. We «hen proceeded South by Eaft
half a mile, and South-South -Wefl: a mile and an half. During the lad
diilance, clouds of thick fmoke rofe from the woods, that darkened the at-
mofphere, accompanied with<a flrong odour of the gum of oyprefs and the
fpruce-fir. Ourcourfes continued to be South- Weit a mile and a quar-
ter, North-Well by Weft three quartets of a mile,South-Souih-Eaft a mild
and a quarter, Eaft three quarters of a mile, South* Weft one mile, Wert
by South three quarters of a mile, South-Eaft by South threje quarters of
a mile, South by Weft half., mile, Weft by South three quartet-Sofa mile;
South by Weft two miles and an half. In the laft Courfe there Was ntl
idand, and it appeared to me, that the main channel of the river httd fori
merly been on the other fide of it. The banks were here cOrhpofed -of
high white cliff's, crowned with pinnacles in very groiefque ftiapes. Wft,
continued to fteer South-Eaft l>y Sout^l a mile and an half, South by Jfcaft

Hh half

,f|(||

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; !

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234

»793-
June.

— V-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

half a mile, Eaft one mile and a quarter, South-Eaft by Eaft one mile.
South by Eaft three quarters of a mile, South-Eaft by Eaft one mile,
South-South-Eaft half a mile, Eaft one mile and a quarter. South by Eaft
half a mile, Eaft a mile and an half, South-South-Eaft three miles, and
South- Weft three quarters of a mile. In the laft courfe the rocks con-
tra6ied in fuch a manner on both fides of the river, as to afford the ap-
pearance of the upper part of a fall or catara6l. Under this apprehen-
"fion we landed on the left fliore, where we found a kind of foot-path,
imperfeftly traced, through which we conje£lured that the natives occa-
fionally paffed with their canoes and baggage. On examining the courfe
of the river, however, there did not appear to be any fall as we expelled;
but the rapids wefe of a confiderable length and impaflable for a light
canoe. We had therefore no alternative but to widen the road lb as to
admit the paffage ofour canoe, which was now carried with great diffi-
culty ; as from her frequent repairs, and not always of the ufual ma-
terials, her weight was fuch, that flie cracked and broke on the (houlders
of the men who bore her. The labour and fatigue of this undertaking,
from eight till twelve, beggars all dcfcription,whenweat length conquered
this affli6ling paflage, of about half a mile, over a rocky and moft rugged
hill. Our courfe was South-South- Weft. Here I took a meridian alti-
tude which gave me 53. 42. 20. North latitude. We, however, loft feme
lime to put our canoe in a condition to carry us onwards. Our courfe
was South a quarter of a mile to the next carrying-place ; which was nothing
more than a rocky point about twice the length of the canoe. From the
extremity of this point to the rocky and almoft perpendicular bank that
rofe on the oppofite ftiore, is not more than forty or fifty yards. The great
body of water, at the fame time tumbling in fucceftive cafcades along

... the

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

the firft carrying-place, rolls through this narrow paflage in a very tur-
bid current, and full of whirlpools. On the banks of the river there was *-
great plenty of wild onions, which when mixed up with our pemmican was
a great improvement of it; though they produced a phyfical effeft on our
appetites, which was rather inconvenient to the (late of our provifions. I

Here we embarked, and fleered South-Eaft by Eaft three quarters of
a mile. We now faw a fmoke on the (hore ; but before we could reach
land the natives had deferted their camp, which appeared to be
€re6led for no more than two families. My two Indians were inftantly
difpatchcd in fearch of them, and, by following their tracks, they foon
overtook them ; but their language was mutually unintelligible ; sind all
attempts to produce a friendly communication were fruitlefs. They no
fooner perceived my young men than they prepared their bows and
arrows, and made figns for them not to advance ; and they thought it
prudent to defift from proceeding, though not before the natives had
diicharged five arrows at them, which, however, they avoided, by means
of the trees. When they returned with this account, I very much re-
gretted that i had not accompanied them; and as thefe people dould
not be at any very great diftance, I took Mr. Mackay, and one of the
Indians with me in order to overtake them; but they had got fo far that
it would have been imprudent in me to have followed them. My In-
dians, who, I believe, were terrified at the manner in which thefe natives
received thetr., informed me, that, befides their bows, arrows, and fpears,
they were armed with long knives, and that they accompanied their
ftrange amies with menacing atlions and loud (houtings. On my re-
turn, I found my people indulging their curiofity in examining the bags

235

June.

;.: ?:-.'

'•3 '■* iSi 'ri'il

1..

H h2

and

1793'
June.

23(5 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THR.QUG-H TH.E

and baflcets which the natives had left behind them. Some of them
contained their fifliing tackle, fuch as nets^ lines, &c. others of afmaller
fize were filled with a- red earth, with which they paint themfelves. In
feveral of the bagS there were alfo fundry articles of which we did not
know the ufe. Ji prevented ray m^a, from taking any of them ; and for
a few articles of mere curiofity, which I took myfelf, I left fuch things
in exchange as would be miuch mone lifeful to their owners.

At four we left this place, proceeding with the ftream South-Eaft three
quarters of a.milc, Eaft-South-Eaft one mile. South three quarters of a
mile, Soutb-Soutjh-Vvelt one mile, South by Eaft three quarters of a
mile^ South- South-£ai(t one nule,^ South-South- Weft two miles, South-
South-rEaft three miles aiidr a quarter, Eaft by North one mile, South-
South^Eaft one mile and a quarter, with a rapid, South-South- Weft three
quartess of a mile. South one mile and an half,. South-Eaft one mile and
a quarter,. South three quarters of a mile, and South-South-Eaft one mile
and an half. At half paft feven we landed for the night, where a fmall
river flowed in from the right. The weather was ftiowery, accompanied
with feveral loud claps of thunder. The banks were overfliadowed
by lofty firs, and wide-fpreading cedars. fi.Htf; m-jvn fTW fit* ti, ?d ;ca
jijHi i«S-0l j<>3 bfiff /fsril jiki : rn 'rfl aalfifi'^/o <>t •,iilt\\f nt^m iliiAr a«u»i'»f
Thurfdayzo. The moming' was foggy, and at half paft four we proceeded with a
South wind, South-Eaft by Eaft two miles, South-South-Eaft two miles
and an half, and South-South- Weft two miles. The fog was fo thick,
ihat we could not fee the length of our canoe, which rendered our pro-
grefs dangerous, as we might have come fuddenly upon a cafcade or vio-
lent rapid. Our next courfe was Weft-North- Weft two miles and an half,
' ' fi . , u' i< 11 which

J^QRTR-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

which comprehended a rapid. Being clofe in with die left bank of the
river, we perceived two red deer at the very edge of the water : we
killed one of them, and wounded the other, which was very Ikiall. We
now landed, and the Indians followed the wounded animal, which they
foort caught, and would have (hot another in the woods, if our dog, who
followed them., had not difturbed it. From the niimber of their tracks
it appeared that they abounded in this country. They are not fo
large as the elk of the^^eace River, bu-t are the real red deer, which
I never I's^w ip the North, though I have been told that they are to
be found in great numbers in the plains along the Red, or Affiniboin
River. The bark had been ftripped off" many of the fpruce trees, and
carried away, as I prefumed, by the natives, for the pu*^ ofe of covering
tbeii; cabins. <^e now got the venifon on board, and continued our
voyj^ge Soutb-Weft one mile. South a mile and an half, and Weft one
mile. Here the country changed its appearance ; thej banks were but
of a moderate heigh^ from whence the ground continued gradually
riling to a confiderable diftanee, covered with poplars and cyprefles,
but without any kind of underwood. There are alfo feveral low
points which the river, that is here about three hundred yards in
breadth, fometimes overflows, and are ihaded with ihe liard, the foft
birch, the fpruce, and the willow. For fome difiance before we
came to this part of the river, our view was confined within very
rugged, irregular, and lofty banks, which were varied with the pop-
lar, different kinc.s of fpruce fir, fmall birch trees, cedars, alders, and
feveral fpecies of the willow. Our next courfe was South-Weft by

Weft fix miles, when we landed at a deferted houfe, which was the

'*-'■'-.■■■. '

only Indian habitation of this kind that I had feen on this fide of

. . - :» Mechili-

uiir^' '

237

>793«
June.

' ' ■ ■ ; Ml!'™ I

*!' Jl't

•(*•■■

1 ■ ■'» f" I

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f. ii>

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238

»793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

MechilimLkina. It was about thirty feet long and twenty wide, with
three doors, three feet high by one fool and an half in breadth. Fronl
this and other circumdances, it appears to have been conftru6led for
three families. There were alfo three fire-places, p.t equal diflances
from each other ; and the beds were on either fide of them^ Behind the
beds was a narrow fpace, in the form of a manger, and I'omewhat
elevated, which was appropriated to the purpofe of keeping fifh. The
wall of the houfe, which was five feet in height, was formed of very
(Irait fpruce timbers, brought clofe togc cher, and laid into each other
at the corners. The roof was fupported by a ridge pole, refling on
two upright forks of about ten feet high ; that and the wall fupport a
certain number of fpars, which are covered with fpruce bark; and the
whole attached and fecurcd by the fibres of the cedar. One of the gable
ends is clofed with fplit hoards ; the other with poles. Large roda are
alfo fixed acrois the upper part of the building, where fifh may hang and
dry. i'o give the walls additional ftrength, upright pofls are fixed in
the ground, at equal dillances, both within and without, of the fame
height as the wall, and firmly attached with bark fibres. Openings
appear alfo between the logs in the wall, for the purpofe, as I con-
je£lured, of difcharging their arrows at a befieging enemy; they would
be jedlefs for the purpofe of giving light, which is fufficicntly afforded
by filfures between the logs of the building, fo that it appeared to be con-
ftru£led merely for a fummer habitation. There was nothing further to
attra6^ our attention in or about the houfe, except a large machine,
which mufl have rendered the taking off the roof abfolutely nccef-
fary, in order to have introduced it. It was of a cylindrical form, fifteen
feet long, and four feet and an iialf in diameter; one end was fquarc,
• * like

';,i' "W

NORTHrWEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

like the head of a cafk, and a conical machine was fixed inwards to the
other end, of fimilar dimenfions : at the extremity of which was an open-
ing of about feven inches diameter. This machine was certainly con-
trived to fet in the river, to catch large fifh ; and very well adapted to that
purpofe ; as when they are once in, it mufl be impollible for them to get
out, unlefs they fhould have ftrength fufficient to break through it. It
was made of long pieces of fplit wood, rounded to the fize of a
fmall finger, and placed at the diftance of an inch afunder, on fix hoops j
to this was added a kind of boot of the fame materials, into which it may
be fuppofed that the filh are driven, when they are to be taken out.
The houfe was left in fuch apparent order as to mark the defign of its
owners to return thither. It anfwered in every particular the defcrip-
tion given us by our late guide, except that it was not fituated on an
ifland. '/M.i-r,. ; i .- !"'.;■) ■>•-' ;(>'it jn.l liv t.i! .■;i,/. i^-n,hf i y,'"* njj. hi-.'n

239

1793-

June.

We left this place, and (leered South by Eaft one mile and a quarter
when we pafl'ed where there had been another houfe, of which the ridge-
pole and fui)porters alone remained : the ice had probably carried away
the body of it. The bank was at this time covered with water, and a
fmall river flowed in on the left. On a point we obferved an ercftion
that had the appearance of a tomb; it was in an oblong form, covered,
and very neatly walled with bark. A pole was fixed near it, to which, at
the height of ten or twelve feet, a piece of bark was attached, wiiich was
probably a memorial, or fyinbol of dillindion. Our next courfe was
South by Weft two miles and an half, when we faw an houfe on an iiland,
South-Eaft by Eaft one mile and three quarters, in which we obferved
another ifland, with an lioule upon it. A river ulfo flowed from the
right, and the land was high and rocky, and wooded with the cpinettc.

Our

: -H

240

'793-

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

'Our canoe was now become fo crazy, that it was a matter of abfolute
neceffiry to conftruft another; and as from the appearance of the country
there was reafon to expeft that bark was to be found, we landed at
eight, with the hope of procuring it. I accordingly difpatched four men
with that commiffion, and at twelve they returned with a fufficient
quantity to make the bottom of a canoe of five fathom in length, and
four feet and an half in height. At noon I had an obfervation, which
gave me 53. 17, 28. North latitude. -, ^ o

We now continued our voyage South-Eaft by South one mile and an
half, Eaft-South-Ealt one mile, Eaft-North-Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft
two miles, South-Eafl by South one mile, South-Eaft fix miles, and
Eaft-North-Eaft. Here the river narrows between fteep rocks, and a
rapid fucceeded, which was fo violent that we did not venture to run it.
I therefore ordered the loading to be taken out of the canoe, but fhe was
now become fo heavy that the men preferred running the rapid to the
carrying her overland. Though I did not altogether approve of their
propofnion, I was unwilling to oppofe it. Four of them under-
took this hazardous expedition, and 1 haflened to the foot of the
rapid with great anxiety, to wait the event, which turned out as I ex-
pe61ed. The water was fo ftrong, that although ihey kept clear of
tlie rocks, the canoe filled, and in this ftatc they drove half way down the
rapid, but forlunatelv fhc did not overfct; and having got her into an
eddy, they emptied her, and in an halfdrowned condition arrived fafe
on (hore. The carrying-place is about half a mile over, "with an Indian
path acrofs it. Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, law fome deer on an
illand afbove the rapid ; and had that difcovcry been made before the

departure

.. .J

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f 1 utt. , Y < iKj I i>tii

iu ft <■ iM.( ,i>ti

A t

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 241

departure of the canoe, there is little doubt but we fhould have added a '793-
confiderable quantity of venifon to our (lock of provifions. Our velTel * — y — '
was in fuch a wretched condition, as I have already obferved, that it
occafioned a delay of three hours to put her in a condition to proceed.
At length we continued our former courfe, Eaft-North-Eall a mile and
an half, when we pafTed an extenfive Indian encampment ; Eafl-South-
Eaft one mile, where a Imall river appeared on the left; South-Eaft by
South one mile and three quarters, Eaft by South half a mile, Eaft by
North one mile, and faw another houfe on an ifland ; South half a mile.
Weft three quarters of a mile, South- Weft half a mile, where the cliffs
of white and red clay appeared like the ruins of ancient caftles. Our
canoe now veered gradually to Eaft-North-Eaft one mile and an half,
when we landed in a ftonn of rain and thunder, where we perceived the
remains of Indian houfes. It was impoftible to determine the wind in
any part of the day, as it came a-head in all our direClions.

As I was very fenfible of the difficulty of procuring provifions in this Friday ai.
country, I thought it prudent to guard againft any poftibility of diftreis
of that kind on our return; I therefore ordered ninety pounds \v( ight of
pcmmican to be buried in an hole, fufficicntly deep to admit of a fire
over it without doing any injury to our hidden treafure, and which
would, at the fame time, fecure it from the natives of the country, or
the wild animals of the woods.

The morning was very cloudy, and at four o'clock we renewed our
voyage, (leering South by Eaft one mile and a quarter, Eaft-South-Eall:
half a mile, South by Eaft one mile and an half, Eaft half a mile, South-

li Eaft

.11

/f '

'I i

242

»793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE,

Eall: two miles, wliere a large river flowed in from the left, and a fmaller
one from the right. We then continued South by Weft three quarters
of a mile, Eafl by South a mile and an half, South three quarters of a
mile, South-Eaft by Eaft one mile, South by Eaft half a mile, South-Eaft
three quarters of a mile, South-Eaft by South half a mile, South-Eaft by
Eaft half a mile, the cliffs of blue and yellow clay, difplaying the mme
grotefque ftiapes as thofe which we paflcd yefterday, South-South-Eatt
a mile and an half, South by Eaft two miles. The latitude by oblerva-
tion was 52. 47. 51. North.

rtr,

Here we perceived a fmall new canoe, that had been drawn up to the
edge of the woods, and foon after another appeared, with one man in it,
which came out of a fmall river. He no fooner faw us than he gave the
ivhoop, to alarm his friends, who immediately appeared on the bunk,
armed with bows and arrows, and fper.s. They were thinly habited,
and difplaycd the moft outrngeous antics. Though they were cer-
tainly in a ftatc of great apprehenhon, th?y mani'efted by their gefturcs
that tiiey were refolved to attack *. , if we fl^fiiiu venture to land. 1
therefore ordered the men to ftop the way of the canoe, and even to
check her drifting with the current, as it would have been extreme folly
to have r.'pproachcd thefe favagcs before their fury had in fome degree
fubfidcd. My interpreters, who undcrftood their language, informed
me that they threatened us with inftant death if we drew nigh the (hore;
and they followed the menace by difcluirging a volley of arrowv, fbmc
of whir!^ fell (hort of the canoe, and others paft'cd over it, fo that they
foituiiat vy did us no injury. As we had been cajjiv'd by the current
below tJjc Ipot where the Indians were, I ordcreu my people to patlUle

'■<i^i-r.

NORTH-WESl CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

to the oppofite fide of the river, without the leaft appearance of confu-
fion, fo that they brought rae abreafl; of thein. My interpreters, while
we were within hearing, had done every thing in their power to pacify
them, but in vain. We alfo obferved that they had fent off' a canoe with
two men, down the river, as we concluded, to communicate their alarm,
and procure aflillance. This circumltance determined me to leave no
means untried that miglit engage us in a friendly intercourfe with them,
before they acquired additional fecurity and confidence, by the arrival
of their relations and neighbours, to whom their fituation would be
fliortly notified.

'■'■:' ■ ,- . - ,.

I therefore formed the following adventurous proje£l, which was hap-
pily crowned with fuccefs. I left the canoe, and walked by myfelf along
the beach, in order to induce fome of the natives to come to me, which
I imagined they might be difpofed to do, when they law me alone, with-
out any apparent poffibility of receiving affiflance from my people, and
would conlcquently imagine that a communication with rae was not
a fervice of danger. At the fame time, in order to polfefs the utmoCl
fccurity of which my fituation was fufceptible, 1 direflcd one of the
Indians to Hip into the woods, with my gun and his own, and to con-
ceal hiinlelf from their difcovery; he alfo had orders to ' eep as near
me as pofiible, without being fcen ; and if any of the natives fliould
venture acrofs, and attempt to fhoot me Irom the water, it was his
inftruliions to lay him low: at the fame time he was particularly en-
joined not to fire till I had dllchargcd one or both of the pillols that I
carried in my belt. 11, however, any of them were to land, and ap-
proach my perfon, he was immediately to join mc. In the m(u»ii time

I i 2 my

243

»793*
June,

244

»793-
June.

— V —

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

my other interpreter aflured them that we entertained the mod friendly
difpofition, which I confirmed by fuch fignals as I conceived would be
comprehended by them. I had not, indeed, been long at my ftation,
and my Indian in ambufh behind me, when two of the natives came
off in a canoe, but flopped when they had got within an hundred yards
of me. I made figns for them to land, and as an inducement, difplayed
looking glaffes, beads, and other alluring trinkets. At length, but with
every mark of extreme apprehenfion, they approached the (hore, ftern
foremoft, but would not venture to land. 1 now made them a pre
fent of fome beads, with which they were going to pufh off, when I
rene\^'ed my entreaties, and, after fome time, prevailed on them to come
afhore. and fit down by me. My hunter now thought it right to join
me, and created fome alarm in my new acquaintance. It was, how-
ever, foon removed, and I had the fatisfaftior to find that he, and
thefe people perfectly underilood each other. I inllrufted him to fay
every thing that might tend to fboth their fears and win their confidence.
I cxpreffed my wifli to conduft them to our canoe, but they declined my
offer; and when they obfei vcd fome of my people coming towards us,
they requefted me to let them return ; nnd I was fo well fatisfied with
the progrefs I had made in my intcrcourfe with them, that I did not
hefittite a moment in complying with their defire. During their fhort
liay, they obfervc:^ us, ani^ every thing about us, with a mixture of
admiration and aiknjiil rr-fnt. We could plainly diflinguifh that their
friends received them with j,i, env joy on their return, and that the articles
which they carried bark with them were examined with a general
and eager curicfity; they alfo appeared to hold a confultation, v/hich
laflcd about a (^'.aricr of an hour, and the refult was, an invitation to

come

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

come over to them, which was cheerfully accepted. Neverthelefs, on
our landing, they betrayed evident figns of confufion, which arofe, pro-
bably from the quicknefs of our movements, as the profpeft of a friendly
communication had fo cheered the fpirits of my people, that they pad-
dled acrofs the river with the utmoft expedition. The two men, how-
ever, who had been with us, appeared, very naturally, to poflefs the
greatelt fhare of courage on the occafion, and were ready to receive us
on our landing; but our demeanor foon difpelled all their apprehen-
fions, and the moit familiar communication took place between us.
When 1 had fecured their confidence, by the diflribution of trinkets
among them, and treated the children with fugar, I inftru6led my in-
terpreters to coUeft every neceffary information in their power to afford
me. •

245

June.

-v~

According to their account, this river, whofe courfe is very exten-
five, runs towards the mid-day fun; and that at its mouth, as they had
been informed, white people were building houfes. They reprelcnted
its current to be uniformly Orong, and that in three places it was
altogether impafTable, from the falls and rapids, which poured along
between perpendicular rocks that were much higher, and more rugged,
than any we had yet leen, and would not admit of any palfage over them.
But befides the dangers and dilRculties of the navigation, they added,
that we fhould have to encounter the inhabitants of the country, who
wtre very numerous. They alfo reprefented their immediate neigh-
bours as a very malignant race, who lived in large lubtcrraneous recedes:
and when they were made 'o underllund that it was our defign to pro-
ceed to the Tea, they diiiuaded us from prolecuting our intention, as we

fliould

vl*

'■i j^li

ill

>793-
June.

— V —

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

{hould certainly become a faciifice to the Tavage fpirit of the natives.
Thefe people they defcribcd as pollefiing iron, arms, and utenfds, which
they procured from their neighbours to the Weltward, and were obtained
by a commercial progrefs from people like ourfelves, who brought them
in great canoes. ,..,:; ' A v":s h^!',

Such an account of our fituation, exaggerated as it might be in fome
points, and erroneous in others, was fufficiently alarming, and awakened
very painful relle6lions ; neverthelefs it did not operate on my mind fo as
to produce any change in my original determination. My firll: objeft,
therefore, was to perfuade two of thefe people to accompany me, that they
might fecure for us a favourable reception from their neighbours. To
this propofition they affented, but expreffed fome degree of di(ratisfa61Ion
at the immediate departure, for which we weie making preparation; but
when we were ready to enter the canoe, a fmall one was feen doubling
the point below, witJi three men in it. We thought it prudent to wait
for their arrival, an ' they proved to be fome of their relations, who had
received the alarm from the meffengcrs, which i have already mentioned
as having been fent down the river for that purpofe, and who had
palled on, as we were afterwards informed, to extend the notice of our
arrival. Though thefe people faw us in the midll of their friends, they
difplayed the moll menacing adions, and hoflile poflures. At length,
however, this wild, favage fpirit appeared to fuUfide, and they were per-
lUaded to land. One of them, who was a middle aged perfon, whole
agitations had been Ids frequent than thole of his companions, and who
was treated with particular refpecl by them all, inquired wiho we were,
whence we cam^, whither we were going, aud wlvat w^s the motwe of

our

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

our coming into that country. When his friends had fatisfied him as
far as they were able, refpefting us, he inftantly advifed vis to delay our
departure for that night, as their relations below, having been by this
time alarmed by the mefiTengers, who had been fent for that purpofe,
would certainly oppofe our pafTage, notwithftanding I bad two of their
own people with me. He added, that they would all of them be here
by fun-fet, when they would be convinced, as he was,, that we were good
people, and meditated no ill defigns againft them.

247

»79.S'
June.

Such were the reafons which this Indian urged in favour of our re-
maining till the next morning ; and they were too well founded for me
to hefitate in complying with them ; befides, by prolonging my ftay till
the next morning, it was probable that I might obtain fome important in-
telligence refpetling the country through which I was to pafs, and the
people who inhabited it. I accordingly ordered the canoe to be unloaded,
taken out of the water, and gummed. My tent was alfo pitcfied, and the
natives were now become fo familiar^ that I was obliged to let them know
my with to be alone and undilturbed. ;, „,

- My firfl; application to the native whom I have already particularly
mentioned, was to obtain from him fuch a plan of the river as he (hould
be enabled to give me ; and he complied with this requcfl with a de-
gree of readine{s and intelligence that evidently proved it was by no
means a new bufinefs to him. In order to acquire the beft informa-
tion he could conununicate, I allured him, if 1 found his account cor-
real, that I fhould either return myielf, or lend others to them, with
fuch articles as they a})pe;ircd to want : particularly arms and ammuni-
Uon^ with which they would be able to prevent their enemies from in-
vading

■1 !?!

248

1793-
June.

-V"

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

vading them. I obtained, however, no addition to what I already knew,
but that the country below us, as far as he was acquainted with it,
abounded in animals, and that the river produced plenty of fifh.

Our canoe was now become fo weak, leaky, and unmanageable, that
it became a matter of abfolute neceffity to conftruft a new one ; and I
had been informed, that if we delayed that important work till we got
further down the river, we fhould not be able to procure bark. I there-
fore difpatched two of my people, with an Indian, in fearch of that ne-
ceflary material. The weather was fo cloudy that I could not get an
obfervation.* . .

I pafled the reft of the day in con verfing -with thefe people : they con-
fifted of feven families, containing eighteen men ; they were clad in
leather, and had fome beaver and rabbit-fkin blankets. They had not
been long arrived in this part of the country, where they propofed to
pafs tne fummer, to catch fidi for their winter provifion : for this purpofe
they were preparing machines fimilar to that which we found in the firft
Indian houfe we faw and defcribed. The fifli which they take in them
are large, and only vifit this part of the river at certain feafons. Thefe
people differ very little, if at all, either in their appearance, language, or
manners, from the Rocky- Mountain Indians. The men whom I fent in
fearch of bark, returned with a certain quantity of it, but of a very in-
different kind. We were not gratified with the arrival of any of the na-
tives whom we expelled from a lower part of the river.

The obfervation, already mentioned, I got on my rituru.

I'. '•

CHAP.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

'i':. ;'"■;. .V'. 'i v> ' •■.( > T- ' • , I r i. '

s- r in.

.■^ ')..a

^ ! U

' - ' CHAPTER VIII.

'1.1 i:

Renew our voyage, accompanied by two of the natives. Account of courfes.
State of the river. Arrive at a fubterranean houfe. See fever al natives.
Brief defcription of them. Account of our conference with them. Saw
other natives. Defcription of them. Their conduEl, &c. The account
which they gave of the country. The narrative of a female prifoner.
The perplexities of my fituation. Specimen of the language of two tribes.
Change the plan of my journey. Return up the river. Succefjion of
dangers and difficulties. Land on an ijland to build another canoe.

249

:.- ; ■•, , 1: -',-?- ..■■■.. ■y^.:-^ '■ ■ - ■ ■ ' .)i '

' * »793.

A June.

T fix in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, with two of the ^-^^ t ^^

Indians, one of them in a fmall pointed canoe, made after the fafhion of

the Efquimaux, and the other in our own. This precaution was necef-

fary in a two-fold point of view, as the fmall canoe could be fent ahead

to fpeak to any of the natives that might be feen down the river, and,

thus divided, would not be ealy for them both to make their efcape.

Mr. Mackay alfo embarked with the Indian, which fcemed to afford him

great fatisfaftion, and he was thereby enabled to keep us company

with diminution of labour.

Our courfes were South-South-Eafl a mile and an half, South-Eafl

Kk half

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June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

half a mile, South by Eafl four miles and an half, South-Eaft by South
half a mile. South by Weft half a mile, South-Eaft by Eaft one mile,
South-South-Weft a mile and an half, South by Eaft one mile and a
quarter. The country, on the right, prefented a very beautiful appearance :
it rofe at firft rather abruptly to tne height of twenty-five feet, when the
precipice was fucceeded by an inclined plain to the foot of another fteep ;
which was followed by another extent of gently-rifing ground : thefe
objefts, which were fliaded with groves of fir, prefenting themfelves alter-
nately to a confiderable diftance.

,-.:..».

Wc now landed near an houfe, the roof of which alone appeared above
ground ; but it was deferted by its inhabitants who had been alarmed at
our approach. We obferved fevcral men in the fecond fteep, who dif-
played the fame poftures and menacing a6lions as thofe which we have fo
lately defcribed. Our conduftors went to them immediately on an
embafly of friendftiip, and, after a very vociferous difcourfe, one of them
was perfuaded to come to us, but j^refented a very ferocious afpe6l : the
reft, who were feven in number, foon followed his examjlc. They held
their bows and arrows in their hands, and appeared in their garments,
which were faftened round the neck, but left the right arm free for aftion.
A cord faftened a blanket or leather covering under the right arm-
pit, fo that it hung upon the left ftioulder, and might be occafionally
employed as a target, that would turn an arrow which was nearly Ipcnt.
As foon as they had recovered from their apprehenfions, ten women
made their appearance, but without any children, whom, I imagine, they
had fent to a greater diftance, to be out of the reach of all poffible
danger. I diftributed a few prefents among ihenii and left my guides to

explain

NORTH-WEST CONIINENT OF AMERICA.

explain to them the obje6l of ray journey, and the friendlinels of my de-
figns, with which they had themfelves been made acquainted ; tlieir fpftr^
being at length removed, I gave ihem a fpecimen of the ufe to which we
applied our fire-arms : at the fame time, I calmed their aftonifhtnent, by the
affurance, that, though we could at once deftroy thofe who did us injury,
we could equally proteft thofe who (hewed us kindnefs. Our (lay here
did not exceed half an hour, and we left thefe people with favourably
impreflioas of us.

From this plrce we (leered Eaft by North half a mile, South by E»0:
three quarters of a mile, and South by Weft a mile and an half, when
we landed again on feeing fome of the natives on the high ground,
whofe appearance was more wild and f-^rncious than any whocp
we had yet feen. Indeed I was under fome apprehenfion that our
guides, who went to conciliate them to us, would have fallen a prey to
their favage fury. At length, however, they were perfuaded to enter-
tain a more favourable opinion of us, and they approached us one after
another, to the number of fixteen men, and feveral women, I (hook
hands with them all, and defired my interpreters to explain that faluta-
tion as a token of friend(hip. As this was not a place where we could
remain with the nece(rary convenience, I propofed to proceed further,
infearch of a more commodious fpot. They immediately invited us to
paf< the night at their lodges, which were at no great dill.ince, and pro-
mifcd, at the fame time, that they would, in the morning, fend two men
to introduce us to the next nation, who were very numerous, and ilU
difpoftd towards (trangers. As we were pufliing from the (liore, we
were very much furprifcd at hearing a woman pronounce fcvcral words

K k 2 in

«5»

»793-
June.

— V —

■Kr-i

/^:*'M

< ' i

If' 'tiii

£52

»793-
June,

— ^, —

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

in the Knifleneaux language. She proved to be a Rocky-Mountain
native, fo that my interpreters perfeftly underftood her. She informed us
that her country is at the forks of this river, and that (he had been taken
prifoner by the Knirteneaux, who had carried her acrofs the mountains.
After having pafled the greateft part of the fummer with them, fhe had
contrived to efcape, before they had reached their own country, and had
re-crofled the mountains, when fhe expefled to meet her own friends :
but after fuffering all the hardfhips incident to fuch a journey, fhe had
been taken by a war-party of the people with whom fhe then was,
who had driven her relations from the river into the mountains. She
had fince been detained by her prefent hufband, of whom fhe had no
caufe to complain; neverthelefs fhe expred'ed a flrong defire to return
to her own people. I prefented her with feveral ufeful articles, and
defired her to come to me at the lodges, which fhe readily engaged to
do. We arrived thither before the Indians, and landed, as we had pro-
mifed. It was now near twelve at noon, but on attempting to take an
altitude I found the angle too great for my lextant.

The natives whom we had already feen, and feveral others, focn joined
us, with a greater number of women than I had yet fcen ; but I did
notobferve the female prifoner among them. There were thirty-five of
them, and my remaining flore of prelents was not fufficient to enable me
to be very liberal to fo many claimants. Among the men I found four
of the adjoining nation, and a Rocky-Mountain Indian, who had
been with them for fome time. As he was underllood by my uiiei-
preters, and was himfclf well acquainted with the language of the
ftrangers, I poffeffed the means of obtaining every information refpeding
I the

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

the countr)', which it might be in their power to afford me. For this
purpofe I felefted an elderly man, from the four flrangers, whofe coun-
tenance had prepofleffed me in his favour. I ftated to thcfe people, as
I had already done to thofe from whom I had hitherto derived informa-
tion, the objefts of my voyage, and the very great advantages which
they would receive from my fuccefsful termination of it. They ex-
prefled themfelves very much fatisfied at my communication, and alfured
me that they would not deceive me refpefting the fubjeft of my inquiry.
An old man alfo, who appeared to polfefs the chara6ler of a chief, de-
clared his wifh to fee me return to his land, and that his two young
daughters fliould then be at my difpofal. I now proceeded to rcqueft
the native, whom I had particularly felefled, to commence his informa-
tion, by drawing a (ketch of the country upon a large piece of bark, and
he immediately entered on the work, frequently appealing to, and fome-
times afking the advice of, thofe around him. He defcribed the river as
running to the Eaft of South, receiving many rivers, and every fix or
eight leagues encumbered with falls and rapids, fome of which were
v«ry dangerous, and fix of them impra61icable. The carrying-places he
reprefented as of great length, and palfing over hills and mountains. He
depided the lands of three other tribes, in fuccelfion, who fpoke different
languages. Beyond them he knew nothing either of the river or country,
only that it was Uill a long way to the fea ; and that, as he had heard, there
was a lake, before they reached the water, which the natives did not drink.
As far as his knowledge of ilie river extended, the country on either fide was
level, in many places without wood, and abounding in red deer, and fome of
a fmall fallow kind. Few of the natives, he laid, would come to the banks
for fome time ; but that at a certain fcafon they would arrive there in great

numbers^

253

»793-
June.

titMu

lift-

/iBtfl

^54

«793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

numbers, to fifh. They now procured iron, brafs, copper, and trinkets,
from the Weftward ; but formerly thefe articles were obtained from the
lower parts of the river, though in fmall quantities. A knife was produced
which had been brought from that quarter. The blade was ten inches
long, and an inch and an half broad, but with a very blunted edge. The
handle was of horn. We underftood that this inftrument had been
obtained trom white men, long before they had heard that any came to
the Weftward. One very old man obferved, that as long as he could
remember, he was told of white people to the Southward; and that he
had heard, though he did not vouch for the truth of the report, that one
of them had made ar attempt to come up the river, and was deftroyed.

^ Thefe people defcribe the diftance acrofs the country as very ftiort to
the Weftern ocean; and, according to my own idea, it cannot be above
five or fix degrees. If the affertion of Mr. Mears be correal, it cannot
be fo far, as the inland fea which he mentions within Nootka, muft come
as far Eaft as 1 26 Wefl longitude. They affured us that the road was
not difficult, as they avoided the mountains, keeping along the low lands
between them, many parts of which are entirely free from wood. Ac-
cording to their account, this way is fo often travelled by them, that
their path is vifible throughout the whole journey, which lies along
fmall lakes and rivers. It occupied them, they faid, no more than fix
nights, to go to where they meet the people who barter iron, brafs, cop-
per, beads, &c. with em, for dreffed leather, and beaver, bear, lynx,
fox, and marten fkins. The iron is about eighteen inches of two-inch
bar. To this they give an edge at one end, and fix it to an handle
at right angles, which they employ as an axe. When the iron is

wora

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

worn down, they fabricate it into points for their arrows and fpikes.
Before they procured iron they employed bone and horn for thofe pur-
pofes. The copper and brafs they convert into collars, arm-bands,
bracelets, and other ornaments. They fomctimes alfo point their arrows
with thofe metals. They had been informed by thofc whom they meet
to trade with, that the white people, from whom thcfc articles arc ob-
tained, were building houfes at the didance of three days, or two nights
journey from the place where they met lad fall. With this route they
all appeared to be well acquainted.

I now requefted that they would fend for the female prifoner whom I
faw yeflerday, but I received only vague and evafive anfwers : they
probably apprehended, that it was our defign to take her from them.
I was, however, very much difappointed at being prevented from having
an interview with her, as fhe might have given me a corre6l account of
the country beyond the forks of the river, as well as of the pafs, through
the mountains, from them.

^55

1793'
June.

V ^ 1

'*i<i

f '4

:. My people had liftened with great attention to the relation which had
been gi'.en me, and it feemed to be their opinion, that it would be ab-
folute raadnefs to attempt a paffage through fo many favage and bar-
barous nations. My fituation may, indeed, be more eafily conceived
than exprefled : I had no more than thirty days provifion remaining,
exclufive of fuch fupplies as I might obtain from the natives, and the
toil of our hunters, which, however, was fo precarious as to be matter of
little dependence : befides, our ammunition would foon be exhaufted,
particularly our ball, of which we had not more than an hundred and
'*'^" - . . fiftyi

»■ •*;

256

>793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fifty, and about thirty pounds weight of (hot, which, indeed, might be
converted into bullets, though with great wafte.

The more I heard of the river, the more I was convinced it could not
empty itfelf into the ocean to the North of what is called the River of the
Weft, fo that with its windings, the dillance muft be very great. Such
being the difcouraging circumflances of my fituation, which were now
heightened by the difcontents of my people, I could not but be alarmed
at the idea of attempting to get to the dilcharge of fuch a rapid river,
efpecially when I reflefted on the tardy progrefs of my return up it, even
if I fhould meet with no obftrutlion from the natives; a circumftance
not very probable, from the numbers of them which would then be on
the river; and whom I could have no opportunity of conciliating in my
paftage down, for the reafons which have been altready mentioned. At
all events, I mufl give up every expe6lation of returning this feafcn to
Athabafca. Such were my refle6lions at this period; but inflead of con-
tinuing to indulge them, I determined to proceed with refolution, and fet
future events at defiance. At the fame time I fuffered myfelf to nourifh
the hope that I might be able to penetrate with more fafety, and in a
fhorter period, to the ocean by the inland, wellern communication.

To carry this projeft into execution I mull have returned a confiderable
diftance up the river, which would neceflarily be attended with a very
ferious inconvenience, if I pafFed over every other ; as in a voyage of this
kind, a retrograde motion could not fail to cool the ardour, flacken the
zeal, and weaken the confidence of thofe, who have no greater inducement
in the undertaking, than to follov/ the condu^lor of it. Such was the

flat«

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

date of my mind at this period, and fuch the circumftances by which
it was diflrefled and diftraQed.

«793-
June.

To the people who had given me the foregoing information, I pre-
fented feme beads, which they preferred to any other articles in my pof-
feffion, and I recompenfed in the fame manner two of them who commu-
nicated to me the following vocabulary in the languages of the Nagailer

and Atnah tribes.

. t.-ji't

.if^'(b-iitft t

Thi Nagailer,

The Atnah. '^'^

or Chin-Indians.

or Carrier-Indians.

-ifi'

Eye.

Nah,

Thlouftin.5.pA jii I

Hair,

ii . Thigah,

Cahowdin. ; ;] . ^^

Teeth,

Gough,

Chliough. ; ^ n£jbnl

Nofe,

Nenzeh,

Pifax.

u t:

Head,

:• Thie,

Scapacay, ,• 'V

Wood,

Dekin,

Sbedzay. ,„;;c]ul isad

Hand, jamm

-,(>,, Lah,

Calietha. ,[ ^^^.^ ,p}U

Leg,

Kin,

Squacht.

Tongue,

• Thoula,

Dewhasjifk.

Ear,

Zach,

Ithlinah. ,}}

Man,

Dinay,

Scuynlouch.

Woman,

Ch'qoui,

Smofledgenlk.

Beaver,

Zah,

Schugh,

Elk,

Yezey,

Oikoy-Beh.

Dog,

Slcing,

Scacah. . {no}

Ground-hog,

Thidnu,

Squaiquais. ' ,,} ^lr^

Iron,

Thlifirch,

Soucoumang;!;,; {>, !vr

L 1

Fire,

.♦'s \i'jri/J

iiu.

25S

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Juho.

Tk9 N»g«ycr,
or Chin-Indians.

Tlie Atwh, - i^
or Carrier- Indians.

-V

Fire,

Coun,

Teuck.

Water,
Stone,
; • Bow,

Tou,
Zeh,
Nettuny,

Shaweliquoih.

Ifliehoineah,

Ifquoinah.

Arrow,

Igah,

Squaili.

Yes,

Nefi,

Amaig.

Plains,

Thoughoud,

Spilela.

Come here.

Andezei,

Thla-elyeh.

The Atnah language has no affinity to any with which I am acquaint-
ed ; but the Nagailer differs very little from that fpoken by the Beaver
Indians, and is almoff the fame as that of the Chepewyans.

We had a thunder-ftorm with heavy rain ; and in the evening when it
had fubfided, the Indians amufed us with finging and dancing, in which
they were joined by the young women. Four men now arrived whom
we had not yet feen ; they had left their families at fome diftance
in the country, ana expreffed a defire that we (hould vifit them
there.

Suiid«y«8. After a reftlefs night, I called the Indians together, from whom I yef-
terday received the intelligence which has been already mentioned, in
the hope that I might obtain fome additional information. From their
former account they did not make the leaft deviation ; but they informed
me further, that where they left this river, a fmall one from the Wefl-
ward falU into it, which was navigable for their canoes during four days,

and

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

and from thence they flept but two nights, to get to the people with
whom they trade, and who have wooden canoes much larger than ours,
in which they go down a river to the Tea. They continued to infornfc
me, that if I went that way we mufl leave our own canoe behind us ;
but they thought it probable that thofe people would furnifh us with
another. From thence they dated the diftance to be only one day's
voyage with the current to the lake whofe water is nauieous, and where
they had heard that great canoes came two winters ago, and that the
people belonging to them, brought great quantities of goods and baik
houfes. ,...., .,,,.,

'. ■ ' '-fn- , ■ ,i

: At the commencement of this converfation, I was very much fiir*
prifed by the following queflion from one of the Indians : " What," de-
manded he, " can be the reafon that you a' ^ (b particular and anxious
in your inquiries of us refpcfting a knowledge oF this country : do not
you white men know every thing in the w " This interrogatory

was fo very unexpefted, that it occafioned forae ... litation before I could
anfwer it. At length, however, I replied, that we certainly were ac-
quainted with the principal circumdances of every part of the world ;
that I knew where the fea is, and wher^ I myfelf then wa«, but that I did
not exaftly underftand what obftacles might interrupt me in getting to
it ; with which, he and his relations mufl be well acquainted, as they
had fo frequently furmounted them. Thus I fortunately preferved the
impreflion in their minds, of the fuperiority of white people over them-
felves.

a^9

'793-
Junt.

^'''h

It was now, however, abfoluteiy neceflary that! fhouid come to a final

L 1 2 deter-

s6o

1793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

determination which route to take ; and no long interval of reflexion
' was employed, before I preferred to go over land: the comparative
Ihortnefs and fecurity of fuch a journey, were alone fufficient to deter-
mine me. I accordingly propofed to two of the Indians to accompany
me, and one of them readily ailented to my propofition.

"" I now called thofe of my people about me, who had not been prefent
at my confultation with the natives; and after pafling a warm eulogium
on their fortitude, patience, and perfeverance, I ftated the difficulties
that threatened our continuing to navigate the river, the length of time
it would require, and the fcanty provifion we had for fuch a voyage : I
then proceeded for the foregoing reafons to propofe a fhorter route, by
trying the over-land road to the fea. At the fame time, as I knew from
experience, the difficulty of retaining guides, and as many circumftances
might occur to prevent our progrefs in that diretlion, I declared my re-
folution not to attempt it, unlefs they would engage, if we could not after
all proceed over land, to return with me, and continue our voyage to
the difcharge of the waters, whatever the diftance might be. At all
events, I declared, in the moft folemn manner, that I would not abandon
my defign of reaching the fea, if I made the attempt alone, and that I
did not defpair of returning in fafety to my friends.

^rf'This propofition met with the mofl zealous return, and they unani-
moufty affur^d njie, that they were as willing now as they had ever been,
to abide by my refolutions, whatever they might be, and to follow me
wherever I fhould go. I therefore requefted them to prepare for an
immediate departure, and at the fame time gave notice to the man who

had

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

had engaged to be our guide, to be in readinefs to accon^pany us.
When our determination to return up the river was made known, feveral
of the natives took a very abrupt departure ; but to thole who remained,
I gave a few ufeful articles, explaining to them at the fame time, the ad-
vantages that would refult to them, if their relations conduced me to the
fea, along fuch a road as they had defcribed. I had already given a
moofe fkin to fome of the women for the purpofe of making (hoes,
which were now brought us ; they were well fewed but ill fhaped, and
a few beads were confidered as a fufficient remuneration for the (kill
employed on them. Mr. Mackay, by my defire, engraved my name,
and the date of the year on a tree.

When we were ready to depart, our guide propofed, for the fake of
expedition, to go over land to his lodge, that he might get there before
us, to make fome necefTary preparation for his journey. I did not alto-
gether relifh his defign, but was obliged to confent: I thought it pru-
dent, however, to fend Mr. Mackay, and the two Indians along with
him. Our place of rendezvous, was the fubterraneous houle which we
palled yellerday.

At ten in the morning we embarked, and went up the current much
fafter than I expefled with fuch a crazy veffel as that which carried us.
We met our people at the houfe as had been appointed ; but the Indian
ilill continued to prefer going on by land, and it would have been need-
lefs for me to oppofe him. He proceeded, therefore, with his former
companions, whom I defired to keep him in good humour by every rea-

fonable

261

»793«

June.

:' I

g62

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fonable gratification. They were alfo furnidied with a few articles tliar
might be of ule if they (hould meet with ftrangers.

. In a fliort time after we had Icfc the houfe, I faw a wooden canoe
coming down the river, with three natives in it, who, as foon as they
perceived us, made for the fhore, and hurried into the woods. On paf-
fing their veflel, wc difcovcred it to be one of thofe which we had leeii
at the lodges. A fevere gud of wind, with rain, came from the South-
South-Ea(K This we found to be a very prevalent wind in tliefe parts.
We foon paffed another wooden canoe drawn llcrn foremoft on the
fliore; a circumflance which we had not hiiherto obf^rved. The men
worked very hard, and though I imagined we went a-head very fafl, we
could not rench the lodges, but landed for the night at nine, clofe to the
encampment of two families of the natives whom we had formerly fccn
at the lodges. I immediately went and fat down with them, when they
gave fome roafted fifh ; two of my men who followed me were gratified
alfo with fome of their provifion^. The youngcft of the two natives
now quitted the fhed, and did not return during the time I remained
there. I endeavoured to expliin to the other by figns, the caufe of
my fudden return, which he appe?red to underdand. In the mean
time my tent was pitched, and on my going to it, I was rather fur-
prifed that he did not follow me, as he had been conllantly with me
during the day and night I had paffed with his party on going down.
We, however, went to reft in a ftate of perfeil fecurity j nor had we
the leaft app»ehcniion for the fafety of our people who were gone by

North-west continent of America.

263

We were in our canoe by foMr • .s morning, and pafled by the Indian
hut, which appeared in a ftate of pcrfeft tranquillity. We foon came in
fight of the point where we firft faw the natives, and at eight were much
furpriled and difappointed at feeing Mr. Mackay, and our two Indians
coming alone from the ruins of an houfe that had been partly carried
away by the ice and water, at a fliort diilance below the place where we
had appointed to meet. Nor was our furprife and apprehenfion dirai-
nifhcd by the alarm which was painted in their countenances. When we
had landed, they informed me that they had taken refuge in that place,
with the determination to fell their lives, which they confidered in the
moft imminent danger, as dear as poflible. In a very fhort time after they
had left us, they met a party of the Indians, whom we had known at this
place, and were probably thofe whom we had feen to land from their
canoe. They appeared to be in a ftate of extreme rage, and had their
bows bent, with their arrows acrofs them. The guide flopped to aflc
themfome queftions, which my people did not underftand, and then fet
off with his utmofl fpeed. Mr. Mackay, however, did not leave him
till they were both exhaulled with running. When the young man
came up, he then faid, that fome treacherous defigp was meditated againft
them, as he was induced to believe from the declaration of the natives,
who told him that they were going to do mifchief, but refufed to name
the enemy. The guide then condu6bEd them through very bad ways, as
faft as they could run ; and when he was defircd to llacken his pace,
he anfwercd that they might follow him in any manner they plcafed, but
that he was impatient to get to his family, in order to prepare fhoes, and
other ncccd'arics, for his journey. They did not, however, think it pru-
dent to quit him, and he would not flop till ten at night. On pafTmg a

track

»793-
June.

V y^ '

Monday 24.

!'4'

i.6i

June.
— V—

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

track that was but lately made, they began to be ferioufly alarmed, and
on inquiring of the guide where they were, he pretended not to under-
fland them. They then all laid down, exhaulled with fatigue, and with-
out any kind of covering : they were cold, wet, and hungry, but dared
not light a fire, from the apprehenfion of an enemy. This comfortlefs
Ipotthey left at the dawn of day, and, on their arrival at the lodges,
found them deferted ; the property of the Indians being fcattered about,
as if abandoned for ever. The guide then made two or three trips into
the woods, calling aloud, and bellowing like a madman. At length
he fet off in the fame direftion as they came, and had not fmce appeared.
To heighten their mifery, as they did not find us at the place appointed,
they concluded that we were all deftroyed,and had already formed their
plan to take to the woods, and crofs in as a direft a Ime as they could
proceed, to the waters of the Peace River, a fcheme which could only be
fuggefled by defpair. They intended to have waited ibr us till noon,
and if we did not appear by that time, to have entered without further
delay on their defperate expedition. .s., f*

This alarm among the natives was a very unexpc6led as well us perilous
event, and my powers of conjedure were exhaulled in fearching for the
cai^fe of it. A general panic feized all around me, and any further pro-
fecution ol' the voyage was now confidercd by them as altogether hopc-
Icfs and imprafticable. But without paying the lead attention to their
opinions or fuimifcs, I ordered them to take every thing out of the
canoe, except fix packages: when that was done, I left four men to
take care of the lading, and returned with the others to our camp of lull
wi^lU, where I hoped to find the two men, with their families, whom wq

liad

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

had feen there, and to be able to bring them to lodge with us, when I
fhould wait the iflue of this myfterious buGnefs, This projeft, however,
was difappointed, for thefe people had quitted their flieds in the filence
o^ the night, and had not taken a fingle article of their little property
with them.

265:

J'liie.

Thefe perplexing circumftances made a deep impreffion on my mind,
not as to our immediate fafety, for I entertained not the leafl apprehen-
fion of the Indians I had hitherto feen, even if their whole force fhould
have been combined to attack us, but thefe untoward events feemed to
threaten the profecution of my journey ; and I could not refle6l on the
poflibility of fuch a difappointment but with fenfations little (hort of
agony. Whatever might have been the wavering difpofition of the peo-
ple on former occafions, they were now decided in their opinions as to
the neceflity of returning without delay ; and when we came back to them,
their cry was — " Let us reimbark, and be gone." This, however, was
not my defign, and in a more peremptory tone than I ufually employed,
they were ordered to unload the canoe, and take her out of the water.
On examining our property, feveral articles appeared to be miffing,
which the Indians mull have purloined; and among them were an axe,
two knives, and the young men's bag of medicines. We now took a
pofition that was the belt calcaiated for defence, got our arms in com-
plete order, filled each man's flafk of powder, and diftribntcd an hundred
bullets, which were all that remained, while fome were employed in*
melting down (hot to make more, The weather was fo cloudy that I
had not an opportunity of taking an obfervation, ^''^ -■«'*"} '«

hiik M m While

266

>793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

While we were employed in making thefe preparations, we faw an
Indian in a canoe come down the river, and land at the huts, which
he began to examine. On perceiving us he Rood ftill, as if in a ftate
of fufpenle, when I inltantly difpatched one of my Indians towards him,
but no perfuafions could induce him to have confidence in us; he even
threatened that he would haften to join his friends, who would come and
kill us. At the conclufion of this menace he difappeared. On the
return of my young man, with this account of the interview, I pretended
to difcredit the whole, and attributed it to his own apprehenfions and
alarms. This, however, he deniec and aflced with a look and tone of
refentment, whether he hadiever told me a lie.? Though he was but a
young man, he faid, he had been on war excurfions before he came with
me, and that he (hould no longer confider me as a wife man, which he
iiad nitherto done, m »*vAjjj-7w-v»t^* ^v«Yf viwu |<ii(t*«ii»,^j\> iMiHx'* <it\.> -

To add to our diftrefles we had not an ounce of gum for the repara-
tion of the canoe, and not one of the men had fuHicient courage to ven-
ture into the woods to coUeft it. In this perplexing fituation I enter-
tained the hope that in the courfe of the night fome of the natives would
return, to take away a part at lead of the things which they had left
behind them, as they had gone away without the covering nefeflary to
defend them from the weather and the flies. I therefore ordered the
canoe to be loaded, and dropped to an old houfe, one fide of which, with
its roof, had been carried away by the water ; but the three remaining
angles were I'ufficient to flielter us from the woods. I then ordered two
ftrong piquets to be driven into the ground, to which the canoe was
faftened, fo that if wc were hard prelfcd we had only to ftep on board

■ • '■ and

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

267

and pufli off. We were under the necelTity of making a fraoke to keep
off the fwarms of flies, which would have otherwife tormented us; but
we did not venture to excite a blaze, as it would have been a mark for
the arrows of the enemy. Mr. Mackay and myfelf, with three men kept
alternate watch, and allowed the Indians to do as they fancied. I took
the firft watch, and the others laid down in their clothes by us. I alfo
placed a centinel at a fmall diftance, who was relieved every hour. The
weather was cloudy, with (bowers of rain.

»793-
June.

i,W ■« * M\i%.%f*^ *

V oi r-nB .(n^ij,i3«tifi

:shA i

■ -■tr.\

; At one I called up the other watch, and laid down to a fmall portion of Tuefday 25.
broken reft. At five I arofe, and as the fituation which we left yefterday
was preferable to that which we then occupied, I determined to return
to it. On our arrival Mr. Mackay informed me that the men had ex-
preffed their diffatisfaftion to him in a very unreferved manner, and had
in very ftrong terms declared their refolution to follow me no further in
*ny propofed enterprize. I did not appear, however, to have received
fuch communications from him, and continued to employ my whole
thoughts in contriving means ' j bring about a reconciliation with the
natives, which alone would enable me to procure guides, without whole
alTiftance it would be impoffible forme to proceed, when my darling pro-
je6l would end in difappointment. .en *;^Vi ti'jtMilivi^

^ At twelve we faw a man coming with the ftream upon a raft, and he
muft have difcovered us before we perceived him, as he was working
very hard to get to the oppofite fliore, where he foon landed, and in-
llantly fled into the woods. I now had a meridional altitude, which gave
60. 23. natural horizon, (the angle being more tiian the fextant could

llji/urfT . . Mm 2 mcafure

'tfti

f I

268

J793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

mealure with the artificial horizon,) one mile and an half diftant ; and
the eye five feet above the level of the water, gave 52. 47. 51. North

latitude.

I3VK5: r-;rr:')'

' ''37,'^

J,-i,'A.

While I was thus employed, the men loaded the canoe without having
received any orders from me, and as this was the firft time they had
ventured to aft in fuch a decided manner, I naturally concluded, that
they had preconcerted a plan for their return. I thought it prudent,
however, to take no notice of this tranfatlion, and to wait the iflue of
future circumftances. At this moment our Indians perceived a perlbn
in the edge of the woods above us, and they were immediately difpatched
to difcover who it was. After a fhort abfence thty returned with a
young woman whom we had feen before : her languagv^ was not clearly
comprehended by us, fo that we could not learn from her, at leaft with
any degree of certainty, the caufe of this unfortunate alarm that had
taken place among the natives. She told us that her errand was to
fetch fome things which flie had left behind her ; and one of the dogs
whom we found here, appeared to acknowledge her as his miftrefs.
We treated her with great kindnefs, gave her fomething to eat, and
added a prefent of fuch articles as we thought might pleafe her. On
her exprefiing a wifh to leave us, we readily confented to her departure,
and indulged the hope that her reception would induce the natives to
return in peace, and give us an opportimity to convince them, that we
had no hoftile defigus whatever againft them. On leaving us, (he went
up the river without taking a fingle article of her own, and the dog fol-
lowed. The wind was changeable throughout the day, and there were
(everal ihowers in the courfe of ic« . ^

Though

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

269

' Though a very apparent anxiety prevailed among the people for their »793'
departure, I appeared to be wholly inattentive to it, and at eight in the ' — y — '
C'^eiiing I ordered four men to Itcp into the canoe, which had been loaded
for feveral hours, and drop down to our guard-houfe, and my command
was immediately obeyed : the red of us proceeded there by land. When
I was yet at a confiderable diftance from the houfe, and thought it im-
poflible for an arrow to reach it, having a bow and quiver in my hand,
I very imprudently let fly an arrow, when, to my aftoniftiment and in-
finite alarm, I heard it flrike a log of the houfe. The nien who had jufl
landed, imagined that they were attacked by an enemy from the woods.
Their confufion was in proportion to their imaginary danger, and on my
arrival I found that the arrow had paffed within a foot of one of the men ;
though it had no point, the weapon, incredible as it may appear, had
entered an hard, dry log of wood upwards of an inch. But this was
not all : for the men readily availed themfelves of this circumllance, to
remark upon the danger of remaining in the power of a people pof-
feffed of fuch means of deflru6lion. Mr. Mackay having the firfl watch,
I laid myfelf down in my cloak. ' Mi mr.i :Hv«i^ o / .ni«jrf; rmr-
►ic 'tti i>n} .76 .l(«« .wr.m .tec .>fe»a.v?iio

r " About midnight a ruftling noife was heard in the woods which Wednef. aC.
created a general alarm, and I was awakened to be informed of the cir-
cumftance, but heard nothing. At one I took my turn of the watch, and'
our dog continued unccafingly to run backwards and forwards along the
fltirtsof the wood in a (late of reftlefs vigilance. At two in the morn-
ing the centinel informed me, that he faw fouiething like an human
figure creeping along on all -fours about fifty paces above us. After
fome time had palled in our fearch, I at length difcovercd that his infor-
iA mation

!hV^

270

1793-
June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

mation was true, and it appeared to me that a bear had occafioned the
alarm ; but when day appeared, it proved to be an old, grey-haired,
blind man, who had been compelled to leave his hiding-place by ex-
treme hunger, being too infirm to join in the flight of the natives to
■whom he belonged. When I put my hand on this objecl of decaying
nature, his alarm was fo great, that I expefted it would have thrown him
into convulfions. I immediately led him to our fire which had been jufl,
lighted, and gave him fomething to eat, which he much wanted, as he
had not tafted food for two days. When his hunger was fatisfied, and he
had got warm and compofed, I requefled him to acquaint me with the
caufe of that alarm which had taken place refpefling us among his rela-
tions and friends, whofe regard we appeared to have conciliated but a
' few days pad. He replied, that very foon after we had left them, feme
natives arrived from above, who informed them that we were enemies;
and our unexpefted return, in direft contradiftion to our own declara-
tions, confirmed them in that opinion. They were now, he faid, fo
fcattered, that a confiderable time would elapfe, before they could
meet again. We gave him the real hiflory of our return, as well as
of the defertion of our guide, and, at the fame time, ftated *he impof-
fibility of our proceeding, unlefs we procured a native to conduft us.
He replied, that if he had not loft his fight, he would with the greatefl
readinefs have accompanied us on our journey. He alfo confirmed the
-accounts which we had received of the country, and the route to the
Weftward. I did not negleft to employ every argument in my power,
that he might be perfuaded of our friendly difpofitions to the inhabitants
wherefoever we might meet them, Mwrf» ■ '^ tutr^^ii

>»iii) -•I '.\. ifOjMh di^i^lit l^^mi;::>^ im ru bylbqhiiH vtnii "j^rni/l

ittiittm < '"^' ■i^'Al

i 4^

North-west continent of America.

271

At fan-rife we perceived a canoe with one man in it on the oppofitc *793'
fide of the river, and at our requeft, the blind man called to him to come ' — >^
to us, but he returned no anfwer, and continued his courfe as faft as he-
could paddle down the current. He was confidered as a fpy by my men,
and I was confirmed in that opinion, when I faw a wooden canoe drift-
ing with the ftream clofe in lo the other fhorc, where it' was more than
probable thatt fome of the natives might be concealed. It might, therefore,
have been an ufelefs enterprife, or perhaps fatal to the future fuccefs of
our undertaking, if we had puifued thefe people, as they might, through
fear, have employed their arms againft us,, and provoked us to retaliate.

The old man informed me, that (bme of the natives wh6m I had feen
here were gone up the river, and thofe whom I faw below had left their
late llation to gather a root in the plains, which, when dried, forms a
confiderable article in their winter (lock of provifions. He had a woman,
he faid, with him, who ufed to fee us walking along the fmall adjoining
river, but when he called her he received no anfwer, fo that fhe had pro-
bably fled to join her people. He informed me,^ alfo, that he expefled
a confiderable number of his tribe to come on the upper part of the river
to catch fi{h for their prefent fupport, and to cure them for their winter
ftore ; among whom he had a fon and two brothers* ' ' t--^*^'^'* ^^ t&fhiii^n

^ In confequence of thefe communications, I deemed it altogether un-
necefi'ary to lofe any more time ai this place, and I infotmed the old mart,
that he mull accompany me for the purpofe of introducing u.s to his
friends and relations, and that if we met with his fon or brothers, I de-
pended tipon him to perluade them, or Ibmc of their party, to attend us

l^l!

272

1793-
June.

— v—

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE ^

as guides in our meditated expedition. He .fed his wifties to be

excufed from this fervice, and in other circumdances we ftiould not
have iafifted on it, but, fituated as we were, we could not yield to his
requeft. 3 rii vql a jfe h-naijiir,'©?* 8»w all *'-*»n«r> arfj rivroi.'

^lUf.>'

■.,^J% 1 - ...j„.. ,^._:

>£k<fW I

At feven in the morning we left this place, which I named Deferter's
River or Creek. Our blind guide was, however, fo averfe to continuing
with us, that I was under the very difagreeable neceflity of ordering the
men to carry him into the canoe ; and this was the firft a6l during my
voyage, that had the femblance of violent dealing. He continued to
fpeak in a very loud tone, while he remained, according to his conjec-
ture, near enough to the camp to be heard, but in a language that our
interpreters did not underftand. On afking him what he faid, and why
he did not fpeak in a language known to us, he replied, that the woman
underftood him better in that which he fpoke, and he requefled her, if
fhe heard him, to come for him to the carrying-place, where he ex-
pefted we fliould leave him. , ;,,

a.^.

*^r*

At length our canoe was become fo leaky, that it was abfolutely unfit
for fervice ; and it was the unremitting employment of one perfon to keep
her clear of water : we, therefore, inquired of the old man where we could
conveniently obtain the articles neceffary to build a new one; and we un-
derftood from him that, at fome diftance up the river, we (hould find
plenty of bark and cedar.

At ten, being at the foot of a rapid, we faw a fmall canoe coming down
with two men in it. We thought it would be impoflible for them to

cli:apc,

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

cl'cape, and therefore ftruck off from the fliore with a defign to intercept
them, direfting the old man at the fame time to addrefs them ; but they
no Iboner perceived us, than they ileered into the Itrength of the cur-
rent, where I thought that they muft inevitably perifh ; but their atten-
tion appeared to be engroflcd by the fituation of their canoe, and they
efcaped without making us the lead reply.

About three in the afternoon we perceived a lodge at the entrance of
a confiderable river on the right, as well as the tracks of people in the
mud at the mouth of a fmall river on the left. As they appeared to be
fre(h, we landed, and endeavoured to trace them, but without fuccefs.
We then croffed over to the lodge, which was deferted, but all the ufual
furniture of fuch buildings remained untouched.

Throughout the whole of this day the men had been in a ftate ol"
extreme ill-humour, and as they did not choofe openly to vent it upon
me, they difputed and quarrelled among themfelves. About fun-fet
the canoe flruck upon the flump of a tree, which broke a large hole
in her bottom ; a circumftance that gave them an opportunity to let
loofe their difcontents without referve. I left them as foon as we had
landed, and afcended an elevated bank, in a ftate of mind which I
fcarce wifh to recolle6l, and fhall not attempt to defcribe. At this
place there was a fubterraneous houfe, where I determined to pafs
the night. The water had rifen fince we had pafTed down, and it
was with the utmoft exertion that we came up feveral points in the
courfe of the day.

273

V93-
June.

-X

\'-- I

yl'

i:'i

H- ">i

674

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

»793-
|unc,

'Huvlday 27.

We embarked at half paft fottr,wiih very favourable weather, and at
eight we landed, where there was an appearance of our being able to
procure bark ; we, however, obtained but a fmall quantity. At twelve
we went on fhore again, and collefled as much as was neceffary for our
putpofe. It now remained for us to fix on a proper place for building
another canoe, as it wa& impoffjble to proceed with our old one, which
was become an abfolute wreck. At five in the afternoon we eame to a
fpot yfreW adapted to the bufinefs in which we were about to engage. It
was on a fmall ifland not much encumbered with wood, though there
was plenty of the fpruce kind on the oppofite land, which was only di-
vided from us by a fmall channel. We rK)w landed, but before the canoe
was unloaded, and the tent pitched, a violent thunder-ftorm came on,
accompanied with rain, -"^hich did not fubfide till the night had clofed
in upon us. Two of our men who had been in the woods for axe-
handleS, faw a deer, and one of them fhot at it, but unluckily miffed his
aim. A net was alfo prepared and fet in the eddy at the end of the
ifland.

4'!

At a VI

making pi

went in f

•

CHAP.

they all re
article it w
imntediate

ment, eacl

.fxiade us v

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

275

CHAPTER VII.

Make preparations to build a canoe. Engage in that important work. It
proceeds with great expedition. The guide -who liad defer ted arrives with
another Indian. He communicates agreeable intelligence. They take an
opportunity to quit the ijland. Complete the canot. Leave the ifland,
which was now named the Canoe JJland. Obliged to put the people on
Jhort allowance. Account of the navigation. Difficult afcent of a rapid
fre/h perplexities. Continue our voyage up the river. Meet the guidi
and fome of his friends. Conceal fome pemmican and other articles.
Make preparations for proceeding over land. Endeavour to fecure the
canoe till our return. Proceed on our journey. Various circumfianc<s
of it.

!:||n

XJlT a very early hour of the morning every man was employed in
making preparations for building another canoe, and different parties
went in fearch of wood, watape, and gum. At two in the afternoon
they all returned fuccefsful, except the colleftors of gum, and of that
article it was feared we (hould not (^tain here a fuihcient (upply for our
immediate wants. After a neceffary portion of time allotited for rcfrefh-
ment, each began his reCpeftive work. I had an altitude at noon, which
made us in 53. 2, 32. North latitude.

^N n 2 The

»793'
June.

Friday «^

S i\

276

>793'
JunCt

Saturday 29.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The weather continued to be fine. At five o'clock we renewed our
labour, and the canoe was got in a ftate of confiderable forward-
nefs. The condu6lbr of the work^ though a good man, was re-
markable for the tardinels of his operations, whatever they might be,
and more difpofed to eat than to be a6live ; I, therefore, took this op-
portunity of unfolding my fentiments to him, and thereby difcovering
to all around me the real (late of my mind, and the refolutions I had
formed for my future conduft. After reproaching him for his general
inactivity, but particularly on the prefent occafion, when our time was
fo precious, I mentioned the apparent want of economy both of himself
and his companions, in the article of provifions. I informed him that I
was not altogether a Ihanger to their late converfations, from whence
I drew the conclufion that they wiflied to put an end to the voyage. If
that were fo, I exprefled my wifh that they would be explicit, and tell
me at once of their determination to follow me no longer. I concluded,
however, by afiuring him, that whatever plan they had meditated to pur-
fue, it was my fixed and unalterable determination to proceed, in fpite
of every difficulty that might oppofe, or danger that fliould threaten me.
The man was very much mortified at my addrefiing this remonftrance
particularly to him ; and replied, that he did not deferve my difpleafure
more than the refi of them. My obje£l being anfwered, the copvcrla-
tion dropped, and the work went on. - ,v

About two in the afternoon one of the men perceived a canoe with

two natives in it, conjing along the infide of the ifland, but tlu water

being (hallow, it turned back, and we imagined that on perceiving us

they had taken the alarm i but we were agreeably furprifcd on feeing

' ' them

north-west CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

them come up the outfide of the ifland, when we recognifed our guide,
and one of the natives whom we had already feen. The former began
immediately ^o apologize for his condu6l, and aflured me that fince
he had left me, his whole time had been employed in fearching after
his family, who had been feized with the general panic, that had
been occalioned by the falfe reports of the people who had firft fled
from us. He faid it was generally apprehended by the natives that
we had been unfriendly to their relations above, who were expefted
upon the river in great numbers at this time; and that many of the
Atnah or Chin nation, !had come up the river to where we had been,
in the hope of feeing us, and were very much difpleafed with him
and his friends for having negledled to give them an early notice of
our arrival there. He added, that the two men whom we had feen
yefterday, or the day before, were juft returned from their rendezvous,
with the natives of the fea coall, and had brought a meffage from his
brother-in-law, that he had a new axe for him, and not to forget to
bring a moofe flcin drefled in exchange, which he atlually had in his
canoe. He expefled to meet him, he faid» at the other end of the
carrying-place, -" 4jd- u^tv*- ^ . <aj '

277

>f., I

u..

■fi-'

-.4 .

This was as pleafing intelligence as we had reafon to expefl, and'
it is almoll fupcrfluous to obfc'rve that we Hood in great need of it.
I had a meridian altitude, which gave 53. 3. 7. North latitude. I alfo
took lime in the fore and afternoon, that gave a mean of .1. 37. 42.
Achrometer How apparent time, which, with an oblerved immerfion
of Jupiter's firll fatellite, made our longitude 12a. 48. Weil of Green-
wich. ; ,i>ajaj)f;o

The

June,

. i\

i I

I. i?

June.

ft7« JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

«»( The bfeid old man gave a very favourable account of us to his friends,
and they all diree were very merry together during the whole of the
afternoon. That our guide, however, might not efcape from us during
the night, I determined to watch him.

Sunday 30. Our ftraugers conduftcd themfelves with great good-humour through-
out the day. According to their information we (hould find their friends
above and below the carrying-place. Th^T' mentioned, alfo, that fome
of them were not of their tribe, but are allied to the people of the fea
( coaft, who trade with the white men. I had a meridian altitude, that
gave 53. 3. 17. North latirtude. *

'^'^'Laft night I had the firft watch, when one of my Indians propofed to
, fit tip with me, as he underftood, from the old man's convcrfation, that
he intended, in the courfe of the night, to make his efcape. Accord-
ingly at eleven I exiinguifhed my light, and fat quietly in my tent, from
whence I could obferve the motions of the natives. About twelve,
tliough the night was rather dark, I oblerved the old man creeping on his
liands and knees towards the water-fide. We accordingly followed him
very quietly to the canoe, and he would have gone away with it, if he
had not been interrupted in his defign. On upbraiding him for his
treacherous conduft, when he had been treated with fo much kindnefs
by us, he denied the intention of which we accufed him, and declared
•that his fole objefl; was to affuage his third. At length, however, he
acknowledged the truth, and when we bixjught him to the fire, his
friends, who now awoke, on being informed of what had palled, repro-
bated his condu£l, and aflced him how he could expe6l that the white
& • people

July.
Monday 1

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

a79

people would return to this country, if they experienced fuch ungrateful
treatment. The guide faid, for his part, he was not a woman, and would
never run away through fear. But notwithftanding this courageous de-
claration, at one I awakened Mr. Mackay, related to him what had
pafTed, and requefted him not to indulge himfelf in fleep till I fhould
rife. It was feven before I awoke, and on quitting rny tent I was fur-
prifed at not feeing the guide and his companion, and my apprehenfions
were increafed when I obferved that the canoe was removed from its
late fituation. To my inquiries after them, fome of the men very com-
pofedly anfwered that they were gone up the river, and had left the old
man behind them. Mr. Mackay alfo told me, that while he was bufily
employed on the canoe, they had got to the point before he had obferved
their departure. The interpreter now informed me that at the dawn of
day the guide had exprefled his defign, as foon as the fun was up, to go
and wait for us, where he might find his friends. I hoped this might
be true ; but that my people fhould fufFer them to depart without
giving me notice, was a circumftance that awakened very painful re-
flexions in my breaft. The weather was clear in the forenoon. My ol>-
fervation this day gave 53. 3. 32. North latitude, '^^.ri

A.i-Ht

10 3ro

>,'■!

At five in the afternoon our vcffel was completed, and ready for fer-
vice. She proved a fironger and better boat than the old one, though
had it not been for the gum obtained from the latter, it would have been
a matter of great difficulty to have procured a fufficiency of that article
to have prevented her from leaking. The remainder of th » lay was
employed by the people in cleaning and refrefhing thcmfelves, as they
had enjoyed no relaxation from their labour fince we landed on this fpot.

The

V"-

280

»793'

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The old man having manifefted for various and probably very falla-
cious reafons, a very great averfion to accompany us any further, it did
not appear that there was any neceflity to force his incUnation. We
now put our arms in order, which was foon accompHIhed, as they were
at all times a general obje6l of attention.

Tuefday «. It rained throughout the night, but aL half part three we were ready to
embark, when I offered to condudl the old man where he had fuppofed
we (hould meet his friends, but he declined the propofition. I therefore
direfteda few pounds of pemmican to be left with him, for his imme-
diate fupport, and took leave of him and the place, which I named Canoe
Ifiand. During our flay there we had been mod cruelly tormented by
flies, particularly the fand-fly, which I am difpofed to confider as the
moft tormenting infeft of its fize in nature. I was alfo compelled to
put the people upon (hort allowance, and confine them to two meals
a-day, a regulation peculiarly offenfive to a Canadian voyager. One
of thefe meals was compoFed of the dried rows of fifh, pounded, and
boiled in water, thickened with a fmall quantity of flour, and fattened
with a bit of grian. Thefe articles, being brought to the confiflency
of an hafly pu .'ding, produced a fubftantial and not unpleafant difh.
The natives are very careful of the row* of fi(h, which they dry, and pre-
ferve in bafkets made of bark. Thofe we ufed were found in the huts of the
firft people who fled from us. During cur abode In Canoe Ifland, the water
funk three perpendicular feet. I now gave the men a dram each, which
could not but be confidered, at this time, as a very comfortable treat.
They were, indeed, in high fpirits, when they perceived the fuperior
excellence of the new veir^l| itnd refledied that it was the work of their
own hands.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICi\j.

At eleven we arrived at the rapids, and the foreman, who had not
forgotten the fright he fuffered on coming down it, propofed that the
canoe and lading (hould be carried over the mountain. I threatened him
with taking the office of foreman on myfelF, and fuggelled the evident
change there was in the appean-vnce of the water fincc we pafled it, which
upon examination had funk four feet and an half. As the water did
not feem fo firong on the Weft fide, I determined to crofs over, having
firft put Mr. Mackay, and our two hunters, on fhore, to try the woods
for game. We accordingly traverfed, and got up clofe along the rocks,
to a confiderable diftance, with the paddles, when we could proceed no
further without affiltance from the line; and to draw it acrols a perpen-
dicular rock, for the diltance of fifty fathoms, appeared to be an infur-
mountable obftacle. The general opinion was to return, and carry on
the other fide; I defircd, however, two of the men to take the line, which
was feventy fathoms in length, with a fmall roll of bark, and endeavour to
climb up the rocks, from whence they were to defcend on the other fide of
that which oppofed our progrefs ; they were then to fallen the end of the
line to the roll of bark, which the current would bring to us ; this being
effeded, they would be able to draw us up. This was an enterprife of
difficulty and danger, but it was crowned with fuccefs; though to get to
the water's edge above, tlie men were obliged to let themfelves down
with the line, run round a tree, from the fummit of the rock. By a re-
petition of the fame operation, we at length cleared the rapid, with the
additional trouble of carrying tlie canoe, and unloading at two cafcades.
We were not more than two hours getting up this difficult part of the
river, including the time employed in repairing an hole which had been
broken in 0\c canoC; by the negligence of the llecrliaan. ^

281

*793-

1:5

.11. lii

»793-

i§2 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Here we expef^ed to meet with the natives, but there was not the
lecft appearance of them, except that the guide, his companion, and two
others, had apparently pafled the carrying-place. We faw feveral fifli leap
out of the water, which appeared to be of the falmon kind. The old rnan,
indeed, had informed us that this was the feafon when the large fifli be-
gin to come up the river. Our hunters returned, but had not feen the
track of any animal. We now continued our journey; the current was
not flrong, but we met with frequent impediments from the fallen trees,
which lay along the banks. We landed at eight in the evening ; and
fuffered indefcribable inconveniences from the flies. ' "

Wednef. 3. It had rained hard in the night, and there was fome fmall rain in the
morning. At four we entered our canoe, and at ten we came to a fmall
river, which anfwered to the defcription of that whofe courfe the natives
faid, they follow in their journies towards the fea coaft; we therefore put
into it, and endeavoured to difcover if our guide had landed here ; but
there were no traces of him or of any others. My former perplexities
were now renewed. If I pafled this river, it was probable that 1 might
mifs the natives; and I had reafon to fufpeft that my men would not
confem to return thither. As for attempting the woods, without a guide,
to introduce us to the firft inhabitants, fuch a determination would be
little fhort of abfolute madnefs. At length, after much painful reflec-
tion, I refolved to come at once to a full explanation with my people,
and I experienced a confiderable relief from this refolution. Accord-
ingly, alter repeating the promife they had fo lately made me, on our
putting back up the river, I reprefented to them that this appeared to
me to be the fpot from which the natives took their departu^ for tlie

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

fea coaft, and added, withal, that I was determined to try it ; for though
our guide had left us, it was poffible that, while we were making the
neceflary preparations, he or fome others might appear, to relieve us
from our prefent difficulties. I now found, to my great fatisfaftion,
that they had not come to any fixed determination among themfelves,
as fome of them immediately affented to undertake the woods with me.
Others, however, fuggefted that it might be better to proceed a few
leagues further up the river, in expetlation of finding our guide,
or procuring another, and that after all we might return hither.
This plan I very readily agreed to adopt, but before I left this place,
to which I gave the name of the Weft- Road River, I fent fome of
the men into the woods, in different diredions, and went fome
diftance up the river myfelf, which I found to be navigable only for
fmall canoes. Two of the men found a good beaten path, leading up
an hill juft behind us, which I imagined to be the great road. . .

2^3

*793-

At four in the afternoon we left this place, proceeding up the river;
and had not been upon the water more than three quarters of an ..our,
when we faw two canoes coming with the ftream. No fooner did the
people in them perceive us than they landed, and we went on fhore at
the fame place with them. They proved to be our guide, and fix of his
relations. He was oovered with a painted beaver robe, fo that wc
fcarcely knew him in his fine habiliment. He inftantly defired us to
acknowledge that he had not difappointed us, and declared, at the fame
time, that it was his conlUmt intention to keep his word. I accord-
ingly gave him a jacket, a pair of trowfers, and an handkerchief, as
a reward for his honourable condu6>. The Ilrangers examined us wiih
'■ 'I I . O « the

:''J

284

*793-

July-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

the moll minute attention, and two of them, as I was now informed, be-
longed to the people whom we firft faw, and who fled with fo much
alarm from us. They told me, alfo, that they were fo terrified on that
occafion, as not to approach their huts for two days; and that when
they ventured thither, they found the greater part of their property de-
flroyed, by the fire running in the ground. According to their ac-
count, they were of a different tribe, though I found no difference in
their language from that of the Nagailas or Carriers. They are called
Nafcud Denee. Their lodges were at fome diltance, on a fmall lake,
where they take fi(h, and if our guide had not gone for them there, we
fliould not have feen an human being on the river. They informed me
that the road by their habitation is the fhorteft, and they propofed that
we {hould take it.

■i v>:

".'. .'n

«,{.*
•/-..«

c\it ?i--iU' ]: ►>

4 ^ ..»- . .■»i^^r. ■

■L,.i *«.. . .,

i . «« ►.. --vV

^^l.

Tuefday 4. At an early hour this morning, and at the fuggeftion of our guide,
we proceeded to the landing-place that leads to the ftrangers lodges.
Our great difficulty here was to procure a temporary feparation
from our company, in order to hide fome articles we could not carry
with us, and which it would have been imprudent to leave in the power
of the natives. Accordingly Mr. Mackay, and one of our Indians em-
barked with them, and foon run out of our fight. At our firft hiding-
place we left a bag of pemmican, weighing ninety pounds, two bags of
wild rice, and a gallon keg of gunpowder. Previous to our putting
thefe articles in the ground, we rolled them up in oil cloth, and dreffed
leather. In the fecond hiding-place, and guarded with the fame rollers,
we hid two bags of Indian corn, or maize, and a bale of different articles
of merchandife. When we had completed this important objeft, we

* \f ' > proceeded

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

proceeded till half part eight, when we landed at the entrance of a linall
rivulet, where our friends were waiting for us. •' t'—jj ,•«.,; 4i-«,.. j^. ,v . ,.

^ Here it was neceflary that we (liould leave our canoe, and whatever we
could not carry on our backs. In the firfl place, therefore, we prepared
a ftage, on which the canoe was placed bottom upwards, and (haded by
a covering of fmall trees and branches, to keep her from the fun. We
then built an oblong hollow fquare, ten feet by five, of green logs,
wherein we placed every article it was neceflary for us to leave here, and
covered the whole with large pieces of timber. -.....•-- ^ -- -..,...

J While we were eagerly employed in this neceffary bufinefs, our guide
and his companions were fo impatient to be gone, that we could not per-
fuade the former to wait till we were prepared for our departure, and we
had fome difficulty in perfuading another of the natives to remain, wno
had undertook to conduQ us where the guide had promifed to wait our
arrival. • ' --- '

285

•r;o K> i.t.u v»i5 (tjo-jI ^ibid ^tnii^^^y.,• "fj >i '.:• ,c

"' At noon we were in a flate of preparation to enter the woods, an
undertaking of which I ftiall not here give any preliminary opinion, but
leave thofe who read it to judge for themfelves.

We carried on our backs four bags and an half of pemmican,.
weighing from eighty-five to ninety pounds each ; a cafe with my inftru-
ments, a parcel of goods for prefents, weighing ninety pounds, and a par-
cel containing ammunition of the fame weight. Each of the Canadians

had a bpden of about ninety pounds, with a gun, and fome ammuni-

.^i^,Ti,j/* tion.

(•1*: ii

'' 1!" '11

ij-i' "; ' " ' "

286

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

tion. The Indians had about forty-five pounds weight of pemmican to
■^ carry, befides their gun, &c. with which they were very much diflatis-
fied, a..^ if they had dared would have inftantly left us. They had
hitherto been very much indulged, but the moment was now arrived
when indulgence was no longer prafticable. My own load, and that of
Mr. Mackay, confifted of twenty-two pounds of pemmican, fome rice, a
little fugar, &c. amounting in the whole to about feventy pounds each,
befides our arms and ammunition. I had alfo the tube of my telefcope
I'wung acrofs my flioulder, which was a troublefome addition to my bur-
then. It was determined that we fliould content ourfelves with two meJs
a-day, which were regulated without difficulty, as our provifions did not
r^uire the ceremony of cooking. fc^yt»k|m^ \(h'>giis a q'^ '

. In this ftate of equipment we began our journey, as I have already
mentioned, about twelve at noon, the commencement of which was a
ileep afcent of about a mile; it lay along a well-beaten path, but the
country through which it led was rugged and ridgy, and full of wood.
When we were in a ftate of extreme heat, from the toil of our journey,
the rain came on, and continued till the evening, and even when it
ceafed the underwood continued its drippings upon us.' ., j., „^ i,^ !- ^

About half paft fix we arrived at an Indian camp of three fires, where
we found our guide, and on his recommendation we determined to re-
main there for the night. The computed diftance of this day's journey
was about twelve geographical miles ; the courfe about Weft. ^^,.

At fun-fet an elderly man and three other natives joined us from the
,imi ' Weftward,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

Weflward. The former bore a lance that very much refembled a fer-
jeant's halberd. He had lately received it, by way of barter, from the
natives of the Sea-Coafl:, who procured it from the white men. We
fhould meet, he faid, with many of his countrymen who had juft re-
turned from thence. According to his report, it did not require more
than fix days journey, for people who are not heavily laden, to reach
the country of thofe with whom they bartered their fkins for iron, &c.
and from thence it is not quite two day's march to the fea. They pro-
pofed to fend two young men on before us, to notify to the different
tribes that we were approaching, that they might not be furprilcd at our
appearance, and be difpofed to afford us a friendly reception. This was
a meafure which I could not but approve, and endeavoured by fome
fmall prefents to prepoffefs our couriers in our favour.

9By

1793-

' Thefe people live but poorly at this feafon, and I could procure no
provifion from them, but a few fmall, dried fifli, as I think, of the carp
kind. They had feveral European articles ; and one of them had a
ftrip of fur, which appeared to me to be of the fea otter. He obtained
:t from the natives of the coaft, and exchanged it with me for fome
beads and a brafs crofs. , "* ' , ": • ui t i i .1- r. / •^f-ir

We retired to relt in as much fecurity as if we had been long habituated
to a confidence in our prefent affociates : indeed, we had no alternative ;
for fo great were the fatigues of the day in our mode of travelling, that
we were in great need of red at night. • *

:«n ■

' '»., :j !■ " *'t ; !'t> -*rrf'-;,:/"^*'

hi.-^i*;«^*nii'*^

/ ii.ti7 ,h:-v'

We had no fooner laid ourfelves down to reft lall night, than the Fridays.
'«* natives

If i

288

1703.

J"iy.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

natives began to fing, in a manner very different from what I had been
accuflomed to hear among favages. It was not accompanied either with
dancing, drum, or rattle; butconfifted of foft, plaintive tones, and a modu-
lation that was rather agreeable: it had fomewhat the air of church mufic.
As the natives had requefted me not to quit them at a very early hour in
the morning, it was five before I defired that the young men, who were to
proceed with us, fhould depart, when they prepared to fet off: but, on
calling to our guide to conduft us, he laid, that he did not intend to
accompany us any further, as ihe young men would anfwer our purpofe
as well as himfelf. I knew it would be in vain to remonftrate with
him, and therefore fubmitted to his caprice without a reply. However, I
thought proper to inform him, that one of my people had loft his dag,
or poignard, and requefted his alFiiUnce in the recovery of it. He afked
me what I would give him to conjure it back again • and a knife was
agreed to be the price of his necromantic exertions. Accordingly, all
the dags and knives in the place were gathered together, and the natives
formed a circle round them ; the conjurer alfo remaining in the middle.
When this part of the ceremony was arranged, hv. ^egan to fing, the reft
joining in the chorus ; and after fome time be produced the poignard
which was ftruck in the ground, and returned it to me. J ',?*

'.«

At fcven we were ready to depart; when I was furprifed to hear our
late guide prr lofe, without any folicitation on our part, to refume his office;
and he aftually conduced us as far as a fmall lake, where we found an en-
campment of three families. The young men who had undertaken to con-
du6l us were not well underflood by my interpreters, who continued to
be fo difpleafed with their journey, that they performed this part of their

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

289

duty with great reluftance. I endeavoured to perfuade an elderly man
of this encampment to accompany us to the next tribe, but no induce-
ment of mine could prevail on him to comply with my wifhes. I was,
therefore, obliged to content myfelf with the guides I had already en-
gaged, for whom we were obliged to wait fome time, till they had
provided (hoes for their journey. I exchanged two halfpence here,
one of his prefent Majefty, and the other of the State of Mafla-
chufet's Bay, coined in 1787. They hung as ornaments in children's

ears.

■J ■ i\ J. .-J"

■««'^.,. ?-,t" ( ' 'if? 1 -Xf

M-'

I'll ?. \* ff i7/ii,ii..> j;.

>4!!i;i ■■VI r.

;:iL, rf 1

■Oil-!

1. My fituation here was rendered rather unpleafant by the treatment
which my hunters received from thefe people. The former, it appeared,
were confidered as belonging to a tribe who inhabit the mountains, and
are the natural enemies of the latter. We had alfo been told by one of
the natives, of a very ftern afpeft, that he had been dabbed by a rela-
tion of theirs, and pointed to a fear as the proof of it. I was, there-
fore, very glad to proceed on my journey, f ' ,.

I Our guides condufled us along the lake through thick woods, and
without any path, for about a mile and an half, when we loft fight of it.
This piece of water is about three miles long and one broad. We then
crofled a creek and entered upon a beaten track, through an open coun-
try, fprinkled with cyprefs trees. At twelve the fky became black,
and an heavy guft with rain fliortiy followed, which continued for up-
wards of an hour. When we perceived the approaching ftorm, we fixed
our thin, light oil-cloth to fcreen us from it. On renewing our march,
as the bufties were very wet, I defired our guides, they having no bur-
9».)i 5*^1 Pp ' dens,

«793-

July.

' ■n'v

<!' : ',1

>793

290 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

dens, to walk in front, and beat them as they went : this tafk they chofe
to decline, and accordingly I undertook it. Our road now lay along a
Jake, and acrofs a creek that ran into it. The guides informed me, that
this part of the country abounds in beaver : many traps were feen along
the road which had been fet for lynxes and martens. About a quarter
of a mile from the place where we had been flopped by the rain, the
ground was covered with hail, and as we advanced, the haiUtones in-
creaied in fize^ fome of them being as big as mufket-balls. In this man-
ner was the ground wh'tened for upwards of two miles. At five in the
afternoon we arrived on the banks of another lake, when it again threat-
ened rain; and we had already been fufficiently wetted in the courfe of
the day, to look with complacency towards a repetition of it: we ac-
cordingly fixed our flied, the rain continuing with great violen'^e through
the remainder of the day : it was, therefore, determined, that we fhould
flop here for the night. .„. . ,... ,|i_ :: ... ,;.;^ .,, u.: ,

In the courfe of the day we pafTcd three witUer huts ; they confiflcd of
low walls, wuh a ridge-pole, covered with the branches of the Canadian
balfam-tree. One of my men had a violent pain in his knee, and I
afkcd the guides to take a (hare of his burden, as they had nothitig to
carry but their beaver robes, and bows and arrows, but they could not
be made to underftand a word of my requeft. . . . . .. ._ ,

Saturdiy (>. At fouf thls morning I arofe from my bed, fuch as it was. As we
muft have been in a moil unfortunate prcdiciuncnt, if our guides (hould
have defertcd us in the night, by way of fecurity, I propofcd to the
jioungeii of ihem to ikep with inci and he readily conlttnted. Thole
/fial,i " , people

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

people have no covering but their beaver garments, and that of my rom*
panions was a ned of vermin. I, however, fpread it under us, and having
laid down upon it, we covered ourfelves with my camblet cloak. My
companion's hair being greafed with fifli-oil, and his body fmeared with
red earth, my fenfe of rmelling, as well as that of feeling, threatened to
interrupt my red ; but thele inconveniences yielded to ray fatigue, and
I pafled a night of found repofcii ; ::«; aanv tul dliw »n^>, ^ ;

-■ ' '- » •■ ■ '',» • •" ♦'■•:/' V* v:,,i<iJ i^ iWra* m> s;«icj:l^04 iifWit/vm-Jiv' J.

" I took the lead in our march, as I had done yefterday, in order to
clear the branches of the wet which continued to hang upon them. We
proceeded with all poflible expedition through a level country with but
little under-wood ; the larger trees were of the fir kind. At half pafl
eight we fell upon the road, which we firft intended to have taken from
the Great River, and muft be (horter than that which we had travelled.
The Weft-road river was alfo in fight, winding through a valley. We had
not met with any water fince our encampment of lail night, and though
we were aRlifted with violent thirft, the river was at fuch a diftance
from us, and the defcent to it fo long and deep, that we were compelled
to be fatisfied wuh carting our longing looks towards it. There appeared
to be more water in the river here, than at its difcharge. The Indian
account, that it is navigable for their canoes, is, I believe, perfeflly

291

corrc£l.

*♦

''' Our guides now told us, that as the ioad was very good and well
traced, they would proceed to inform the next tribe that we were coming.
This information was of a very unpleafant nature ; as it would have
been eafy for them to turn off tlie road at an hundred yards from us, and,

r^^Eiiv u-f P p 2 when

»793-

July-

i <*

292

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

when we had pafled them, to return home. I propofed that one of then*
(hould remain with us, while two of my people (hould leave their loads,
behind and accompany the other to the lodges. But they would not ftay
to hear our perfuafions, and were Toon out of fight. >

' I now delired the Cancre to leave his burden, take a fmall (}uan>-
tity of provilion, with his arms and blanket, and follow me. I alfb
told my men to come on as fad as they could, and that I would wait for
them as foon as I had formed an acquaintance with the natives of the
country before us. We accordingly followed our guides with all the
expedition in our power, but did not overtake them till we came to a
family of natives, confiding of one man, two women, and fix children,
with whom we found them. Thefe people; betrayed no figns of fear at
our appearance, and the man willingly converfed with my interpreter,
to whom he made himfelf more intelligible, than our guides had been
able to da They, however, had informed him of the objedl of our
journey. He pointed out to us one of his wives, who was a native of the
fea coaft, which was not a very great didanci from us. This woman
wa» more inclined to corpulency than any we had yet feen, was of low
ftature, with an oblong face, grey eyes, and a flattilh nofe. She was de-
corated with ornaments of various kinds, fuch as large blue beads, either
pendant from her cars, encircling her neck, or braided in her hair : flie
alfo wore bracelets of brafs, copper, and horn. Her garments confided
of a kiml of tunic, which wa« covered with a robe of matted bark,
fringed rojind the bottom with Ikin of the fea otter. None of the women
whom I haf! feen fince we eroded the mountain wore this kind of tunic;
their blaoki is being, meiely girt round ihc waill. She had learned the

language

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

language of her hulband's tribe, and confirmed his account, that we were
at no great di (lance from the fea. They were on their way, {he faid,
to the great river to filh. Age feemed to be an objeft of great venera-
tion among thefe people, for they carried an old woman by turns on their
backs who was quite blind and infirm from the very advanced period of
her life. ih * -

893

July.

f Our people having joined us and reded themfelves, I requeued our
guides to proceed, when the elder of them told me that he (hould not go
any further, but that thefe people would fend a boy to accompany hi&
brother, and I began to think piyfelf rather fortunate, that we were not
deferted by them all. ^;> ..

■ii^^

i:'\U-i VUfi<'>-i

.•jy.jcr

. About noon we parted, and in two hours we came up with two men
and their i imilies : when we firll faw them they were fitting down, as if
to reft themfelves ; but no fooner did they perceive us than they rofe up
and feized their arms. The boys who were behind us immediately ran
forwards and fpoke to them, when they laid by their arms and received
us as friends. They had been eating green berries and dried fifti. We
had, indeed, fcarcely joined them, when a woman and a boy came from
the river with water, which they very hofpitably gave us to drink. The
people of this party had a very fickly appearance, which might have
been the confequence of difeafe, or that indolence which is fo natural to
them, or of both. One of the women had a tattooed line along the chin,,
of the fame length as her mouth. , «

■lit

•>' If'..

4 *.\

ri\i.f'fum\'

The lads now informed me that they would go no further, but that
, * thefe.

294 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

thefe men would take their places ; and they parted from their families
with as Httle apparent concern, as if they were entire ftrangers to each
other- One of them was very well underflood by my interpreter, and
had refided among the natives of the fea coaft, whom he had left but a
(hort time. According to his information, we were approaching a river,
which was neither large nor long, but whofe banks are inhabited ; and
that in the bay which the fea forms at the mouth of it, a great wooden
canoe, with white people, arrives about the time when the leaves begin
to grow: I prefume in the early part of May. j ■,; *^r,*,^

^ After we parted with the laft people, we came to an uneven, hilly,
and fwampy country, through which our way was impeded by a con-
fiderable number of fallen trees. At five in the afternoon we were over-
taken by a heavy fhower of rain and hail, and being at the fame time
very much fatigued, we encamped for the night near a fmall creek. Our
courfe, till we came to the river, was about South-Well ten miles, and
then Weft, twelve or fourteen miles. I thouglit it prudent, by way of
fecurity, to fubmit to the fame inconveniences I have already defcribed,
and {harcd the beaver robe of one of my guides during the night.

Sunday 7. I was fo bufily employed in collefting intelligence from our conduc-
tors, that I laft night forgot to wind up my time-piece, and it was the
only inftance of fuch an a6l of negligence fince I left Fort Chepewyan,
on the ijth of laft Oftober. At five we quitted our ftation, and pro-
ceeded acrofs two mountains, covered with fpruce, poplar, white birch,
and other trees. We then dcfcendcd into a level country, where we
found a good road, through woods of cyprefs. We then carnc to two
-i*<t|. (mall

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

«95

fmalHakes, at the diftance of about fourteen mileS. Courfe about Weft*
Through them the river paffes, and our road kept in a parallel line wi'h
it on a range of elevated ground. On obferving fome people before us,
our guides haltened to meet them, and, on their approach, one of tliem
ftepped forward with an axe in his hand. This party confiiled only of
a man, two women, and the fame number of children. The eldeit of
the women, who probably was the man's mother, was engaged, when rtre
joined them, in clearing a circular fpot, of about five feet in diameter,
of the weeds that inf (led it; nor did our arrival interrupt her employ-
ment, which was facred to the memory of the dead. The fpot to which
her pious care was devoted, contained the grave of an hufband, and a
fon, and whenever fhe paffed this way, (he always flopped to pay this

»793-

tribute of affcdion.

.iv'> vtii!rj*'.v'3i,i:ji v-?')/ ;:.'{j'Pj' ij' ■ i>nf; ,f(*j^i- n -.rif.

w ,'1

■r-^-y]

'..(

A4:.:n. ._.

*•/

As foon as we had taken our morning allowa".ce, we fei forwards, and
about three we perceived more people before us. After fome alarm wc
came up with them. They confilted of feven men, as many women, and
feveral children. Here I was under the neceffity of procuring another
guide, and we continued our route on the fame fide of ilie river, till fix
in the evening, when we croffed it. It was knee deep, and about an
hundred yards over. I wiflied now to ftop for the night, as we were all
of us very much fatigued, but our guide rtcommended us to proceed
onwards to a family of his friends, at a fmall diftance from thence, where
we arrived at half paft feven. He had gone forward, and procured us a
welcome and quiet reception. There being a net hanging to dry, I re-
queued the man to prepare and fet it m the water, which he did with
great expedition, and then prelcnted mc with a lew fmall dried filh. Our
;>'// courfe

agS

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

courfe was South- Weft about twelve miles, part of which was an exten-
five I'wamp, that was feldom lefs than knee deep. In the courfe of the
afternoon we had feveral (howers of rain. I had attempted to take an
altitude, but it was paft meridian. The water of the river before the
lodge was quite (till, and expanded itfelf into the form of a fmail lake. In
many odier places, indeed, it had aflumed the fame form.

Monday 8. I^ rained throughout the night, and it was feven in the morning be<
fore the weather would allow us to proceed. The guide brought me
five fmall boiled fi(h, in a platter made if bark ; fome of them were of
the carp kind, and the reft of a fpecies ror which I am not qualified to
fumifli a name. Having dried our clothes, we fet o(F on our march
about eight, and our guide very cheerfully continued to accompany us ;
but he was not altogether fo intelligible a^^ his predeceffors in our fervice.
Wc learned from him, however, that this lake, through which the river
pafles, extends to the foot of the mountain, and that he expe£ledto meet
nine men, of a tribe which inhabits the North lide of the river.

. In this part of our journey we were furprifed with the appearance of
feveral regular bafons, fome of them furniftied with water, and the others
empty ; their flope from the edge to the bottom forn>':d an angle of about
forty-five degrees, and their perpendicular depth was about twelve feet.
Thofe that contained water, difcovered gravel near their edges, while
the empty ones were covered with grafs and herbs, among which we
difcovered muftard, and mint. There were alfo leveral places irom
whence the water appears to have retired, which are covered with the
ikwiw foil and herbage.

'^'" ■ '■ '' '■' '^ '"'' We

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

.: We now proceeded along a very uneven country, the upper parts of
which were covered with poplars, a little under-wood, an4 plenty of
grals : the intervening vallies were watered with rivulets. From thefe
circum fiances, and the general appearance of vegetation, I coi^|4 not acy
count for the apparent abfence of animals of every kii;i4.

*97

»793-

At two in the afternoon we arrived at the largefl: river that we had
ifeen, fince we left our canoe, and which forced its way between a^4
over the huge Itones that oppofed its current. Our courfe was about
South-South-Weft fixteen miles along the river, which might here
juftify the title of a lake. The road was good, and our next courfe,
which was Well; by South, brought ys onward ten miles, where wc
encamped, fatigued and wet, it having rained three parts of the day.
This river abounds with filh, and rauft fall into the great river, further
down than we had extended our voyage. . '

1 '«!?

r;rr-

yvr^yQT ,-: q 1

<v.'"(:'t it djz'und unx ,/ji

. A heavy and continued rain fell through great part of the night, and as
we were in fome raealure expofed to it, time was required to dry our
clothes ; fo that it was half paft feven in the morning before we were ready
to fet out. As we found the country fo deftitute of game, and forefec-
ing the difficulty of procuring provifions for our return, I thought it pru-
rient to conceal half a bag of pemmican : having lent off the Indians,
and all my people except two, we buried it underthe fire-place, as we had
done on a former occafion. We foon "Overtook our party, and con-
tinued our route along the river or lake. About twelve I had an altitude,
but it was inaccurate from the cloudincfe of the weather. We continued
our progrefs till five in the afternoon, when the water begai. to narrow,

.4 Qq and

.■M

29^

»793'
July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

and in about half an hour we came to a ferry, where we found a fmall
raft. At this time it began to thunder, and torrents of rain foon followed,
which terminated our journey for the day. Our courfe was about South,
twenty-one miles from the lake already mentioned. We now difcovered
the tops of mountains, covered with fnow, over very high intermediate
land. We killed a whitehead and a grey eagle, and three grey par-
tridges i we faw alfo two otters in the river, and feveral beaver lodges
along it. When the rain ceafed, we caught a few fmall fi(h, and repaired
the raft for the fervice of the enfuing day.

Wcdncf. 10. At an early hour of this morning we prepared to crofs the water. The
traverfe is about thirty yards, and it required five trips to get us all
over. At a Ihort diftance below, a fmall river falls in, that comes from
the direftion in which we were proceeding. It is a rapid for about
three hundred yards, when it expands into a lake, along which our road
conduced us, and beneath a range of beautiful hills, covered with ver-
dure. At half pad eight we came to the termination of the lake, where
there were two houfesthat occupied a moR delightful fituation,and as they
contained their neceflary furniture, it feemed probable that their owners
intended ftiortly to return. Near them were feveral graves or tombs, to
which the natives are particularly attentive, and never fuffer any her-
bage to grow upon them. In about half an hour we reached a place
■where there were two temporary huts, that tonluined thirteen men, with
whom we found our guide who had preceded us, in order to fecure a
good reception. The buildings were detaclicd from each other, and
conveniently placed for fifliing in the lake. 1 heir inhabitants called
themfelves Sloua-cuis-DinaiS| which denomination, as far as my inter-
irui.a 1 ' -■ pretcr.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

prefer could explain it to me, I underllood to mean Red-fifh Men,
They were much more cleanly, healthy, and agreeable in their appear-
ance, than any of the natives whom we had pafled ; neverthelefs, I have
no doubt that they are the fame people, from their name alone, which is
of the Chepewyan language. My interpreters, however, underftood very
little of what they faid, fo that I did not expe£l much information from
them. Some of them faid it was a journey of four days to the fea, an4
others were of opinion that it was fix ; and there were among them who
extended it to eight ; but they all uniformly declared that they had been
to the coaft. They did not entertain the Imalleft apprehenfion of
danger from us, and, when we difcharged our pieces, expreffed no fen*
fation but that of aftonifliment, which, as may be fuppofed, was pro-^
portionably encreafed when one of the hunte.s (hot an eagle, at a con*
fiderable diltance. At twelve I obtained an altitude, which made
our latitude 53. 4. 32. North, being not fo far South as I ex-
peQed. , 3... ^,, ..,., ,,,ij ,., -,.,„, ,.,. ,.... ,...^_^ .,;;,;,,,-:i:

«99

»793'
July.

— V-

i >.

''.vJi''P' h'.'\ -n I

i' •1.

•: J ::;:■>■:; rut ^:^^

I now went, accompanied by one of my men, an interpreter, and he
guide, to vifit fome huts at the diftance of a mile. On our arrival the in-
habitants prefented us with a difh of boiled trout, of a fmall kind. The
fifh would have been excellent if it had not tailed of the kettle, which
was made of the bark of the white fpruce, and of the dried grafs with
which it was boiled. Befides this kind of trout, red and white carp and
jub, are the only fifh I faw as the produce of thefe waters.

. Thefe people appeared to live in a ftate of comparative comfort;
they take a greater Ihare in the labour of the women, than is common

Q q 2 among

»'.'!

JOtJftNAL OF" A VOYAGE THROUGH Ttt^

aitiortg tJite (aviage tribes, and are, as I w^s informed, content with on^
wife. Tt'ioligh this circumftahce may proceed i'ather from the difficulty
-of ^rdcurittg fisbfiftertce, than atty habitual averfion to polygamy.

' My prefent guide how inforrried me, that he could not proceed any
further, And I a'c'cofdihgly engaged two of thefe people to fucceed him
in that office ; but when they defired us to proceed on the 'beaten path
'(vitliout theth, As thiey could not fet off till the following day, I deter-
ftiirted to ftay tthat i»iight, in order to accommodalte myfelf to their con-
venience, rdiftributed feme trifles among the wives and children of the
men who were to be bur future guides, and returned to my people. We
clitee balck 'by & different w&iy, and paffed by two buildir.g.i, cre6ied be-
tween four trees, and about fifteen feet from the ground, which ap-
peared to me to be intended as magazines for winter provifions. At
fdffr ih the afternoon, we proceeded with confiderable expedition, by
the fide of the lake, till fix, when we came to the end of it : we then
ftruck off through a much lefs beaten track, and at half pall feven flopped
for the night. Our courfe was about Well-South- Wefl thirteen miles,
and Weft fix milf*s.

Thurfdru. ' I paffed a mofl lincomfbrtable night: the firfl part of it I was tor-
hiented with flies, and in the latter deluged with rain. In the morning
the weather cleared, and as foon as our clothes were dried, we pro-
ceeded through a morafs. This part of the country had been laid wafte
by fire, and the fallen trees added to the pain and perplexity of our
w^jy. Ah high, rocky ridge ftretched along our left. Though the rain
returned, "we continued our progrefs till noon, when our guides took to
* * f» fome

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERIC4.

foine trees for flieltcr. We then fpread our oil-cloth, and, with Cxme
difficulty, made a fire. About two the rain ceafed, when we jcontioued
our journey through the fame kind of country which we had hitherto
pa (Ted. At half pafi three we came in fight of a lake ; the land, at tha
fame time gradually rifing to a range of mountains whofe tops were
covered with fnow. We foon after obferved two frefti tracks, wihioh
feemcd to furprife our guides, but they fuppofed them to have been
made by the inhabitants of the country who were come into this part of
it to fifli. At five in the afternoon we were fo wet a,nd cold, (for it had
at intervals continued to rain,) that we were compelled to ftop for the
night. We pafled feven rivulets and a creek in this day's journey. As
I had hitherto regulated our courle by the fun, I could not form an acr
curate judgment of this route, as v/e had not been favoured with a fight
of it during the day ; but I imagine it to have been nearly in tlve fame di-
reftion as that of yefterday* Our diltance could not have been kfS' than
fifteen miles»'*iijJA-y 4t,Mnj. va^cj in itjii--iij wvf ^<Mf.>ti>i^iiut/ cU t./iw^j jiit>
; „ i. ,,' ; .- , „ ■ 4;: /' ;^i \ . -:,: , . .«^iiu;rfii<^l b jTi3^blf[ od v/ ^n.jas

Our conductors now began to complain of our mode of travelling,
and mentioned their intention of leaving us; and my interpreters, who
were equally dilfatisfied, added to our perplexity ^ by their condufil.
Befides, thefe circumftances, and the apprehen^fion that the diftance
from the fea might be greater than I had imagined, it became a matter
of real neceflity that we (hould !)egin to diminifh the confumption of
our provifions, and to fubfifl; upon two-thirds of our allowance; a pro*
pofition which was as unwelcome to my people, as it- was neceffary tobc
put into immediate pra6lice. orf'^ /la/jwoii »?iu.jbnl v:*« lo wiU .(uk
9\A thiii tbdi .i^wid'^ih \d mid oi z^^jWuivM^i b^^iujxj -{^dj a:'--
avi/o'n At

§0}

JuLjf.
— V""

8o«

July.

Friday la.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

At half pafl five this morning we proceeded on our journey, with
cloudy weather, and when we came to the end of. the lake feveral tracks
were vifible that led to. the fide of the water ; from which circumftance I
concluded, that forae of the natives were fifliing along the banks of it.
This lake is not more than three miles long, and about one broad. We
ihen pafTed four fmaller lakes, the two firft being on our right, and thofe
which preceded on our left. A fmall river alfo flowed acrofs our way
from the right, and we pafled it over a beaver-dam. A larger lake now
appeared on our right, and the mountains on each fide of us were covered
with fnow. We afterwards came to another lake on our right, and foon
reached a river, which our guides informed us was the fame that we had
pafled on a raft. They laid it was navigable for canoes from the great
river, except two rapids, one of which we had feen. At this place it is
upwards of twenty yards acrofs, and deep water. One of the guides
fwam over to fetch a raft which was on the oppofite fide ; and having
encreafed its dimenfions, we crofled at two trips, except four of the
men, who preferred fwimming. , ,, , ^i.. . />

• Here our condu6lors renewed their menace of leaving us, and I was
obliged to give them feveral articles, and promife more, in order to
induce them to continue till we could procure other natives to fucceed
them. At four in the afternoon we forded the fame river, and being
with the guides at fome diftance before the reft of the people, I fat down
to wait for them, and no fooner did they arrive, than the former fet off"
vith fo much fpeed, that my attempt to follow them proved unfuccefs-
ful. One of my Indians, however, who had no load, overtook them,
when they excufed themfelves to him by declaring, that their ible

?..A

motive

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

motive for leaving us, was to prevent the people, whom they expefted
to find, from (hooting their arrows at us. At feven o'clock, how-
ever, we were fo fatigued, that v/e encamped without them : the moun-
tains covered with fnow now appeared to be direftly before us. As wq
were collefting wood for our fire, we difcovered a crofs road, where it
appeared that people had pafled within feven or eight days. In fhort,
our fituation was fuch as to afford a juft caufe of alarm, and that of the
people with me was of a nature to defy immediate alleviation. It was
neceifary, however, for me to attempt it ; and I refled my principles of
encouragement on a reprefentation of our pafl: perplexities and unex-
pefted relief, and endeavoured to excite in them the hope of fimilar
good fortune. I dated j them, that we could not be at a great didance
from the fea, and that there were but few natives to pafs, till we fhould
arrive among thofe, who being accuftomed to vifit th'* fea coaft, and,
having feen white people, would be difpofed to treat us with kindnefs.
Such was the general tenor of the reafoning I employed on the occafion,.
and I was happy to fiad that it was not offered in vain. ' -^ f

■" The weather had been cloudy till three in the afternoon, when the fun.
appeared; but furrounded, as we were, with fnow-clad mountains, the
air became fo cold, that the violence of our exercife, was not fufficient to
produce a comfortable degree of warmth. Our courfe to-day was from
Weft to South, and at leafl thirty-fix miles. The land in general was
very barren and ftony, and lay in ridges, with cyprefe trees fcattered'
over them. We pafTed feveral fwamps, where we faw nothing to confole
us but ?i few tracks of deer,, ^itfMis-^,^^

303

iqs:

ar'fbjff*'' 'f-nnA h^?K?j''^;rr-!::mfv^ V'V

»793.

,'■1 it

k ■*- !

The

Tulv.
Saturday 13.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The weather this morning was clear but cold, and our fcanty cover-
ing was not ftiflicient to protect us from the feverity of tlie night.
About five, after we had warmed ourfelves at a large fire, we pro-
tefeded ort oUT dubious journey. In about an hour we came to the edge
of a wood, when we perceived an houfe, fituated on a green fpot, and
by the fide of a fmall river. 1 he fmoke that ifliaed from it informed us
that it was inhabited. I immediately puflied forward toward this man-
fton, while my people w< te in fuch a ftaite of alarm, that they followed
me with the utmoft relucUnce. On looking back 1 perceived that we
were in an Indian dcfije, of fifty yards in length. I, however, was clofe
upon the houfe before the inhabitants perceived us, when the women
•and children uttered the molt horrid (hrieks, and the only man who ap-
peared to be with them, efcaped out of a back door, which I reached in
time to prevent the wonux aad children from following him. The man
fled with all his fpeed into the wood, and I called in vain on my inter-
,preters to ("peak 'to him, but they were lo agitated with lear as to have
loft the power of utterance. It k 'mpolTible to defcribe the diftrffs and
alarm of thefe poor people, who believing that they were attacked by
enemies, expe6lcd an immediate maflacre, which, among themfelvcs,
•never fails to follow fuch an event, ....,,,,,,

: 1 1 ^"' r '.■;'.'' ■'■!; '*rf • J ' '\ »'^1 j >..

Our prifdners confifted of three women, and feven children, which
appdrentl-y compofed three families. At length, however, by our de-
meanor, and our prefents, we contrived to dilhpate their ppprehenfions.
•One of the women then informed us, that their ;people, with feveral
others had left that place three nights before, on a trading journey
to a tribe whom (he called Annah, which is the name the Chepewyana
u... give

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

3^5

give to the Knifteneaux, at the diflance of three days. She added aUo,
that from the mountains before us, which were covered with fnow, the
fea was vifible ; and accompanied her information with a prelcnt of a
couple of dried fifti. We now expreffed our defire that the man might
be induced to return, and condu6l us in the road to the fea. Indeed, it
was not long before he difcovered himfelf in the wood, when he was
affiired, both by the women and our interpreters, that we had no hoflile
defign againft him; but ihefe affurances had no effeft in quieting his
apprehenfions. I then attempted to go to him alone, and (hewed him a
knife, beads, &c. to induce him to come to me, but he, in return, made
an hoftile difplay of his bow and arrows ; and, having for a time exhi-
bited a variety of ftrange antics, again difappeared. However, he foon
prefented himfelf in another quarter, and after a fucceflion of parleys
between us, he engaged to come and accompany us.

While thcfe negotiations were proceeding, I propofcd to vifit the fidi-
ing machines, to which the women readily confented, and I found in
them twenty fmall fifh, Tuch as trout, carp, and jub, for which I gave
her a large knife ; a prefent that appeared to be equally uncxpeft-
ed and gratifying to her. Another man now came towards us, from
an hill, talking aloud from the time he appeared till he reached us. The
purport of his fpeech was, that he threw himfelf upon our mercy, and
we might kill him, if it was our pleafurc, but that from what he had
heard, he looked rather for our fricndfhip than our enmity. He was
an elderly perfon, of a decent appearance, and I gave him fome articles
to conciliate him to us. The firll man now followed with a lad along
with hin)| both of whom were the fons of the old man, and, on his ar-
■*<'.) R r ' ' • rival

.Wy-

-V '

■■ ir

3o6

1703-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

rival, he gave me feveral half-dried fifh, which I confidered as a peace-
ofFering. Aiier fdme converfation with thefe people, rel'pefting the
country, and our future progrefs through it, we retired to refl, with
fenfations very different from thofe with which we had rifen in the
morning. The weather had been generally cloudy throughout the day,
and when the fun was obfcured, extremely cold for the leafon. At
neon I obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 52. 58. 53. North Iati»
tude. I likewife took time in the afternoon.

Sunrl:

>• '-l-

This morning we had a bright fun, with an Eall wind. Thefe people
examined their fifhing machines, when they found in them a great number
of fmall fifli, and we drefled as many of them as we could eat. Thus was
our departure retarded until feven, when we proceeded on our journey,
accompanied by the man and his two fons. As I did not want the
younger, and fhould be obliged to feed him, I rcquefled of his father to
leave him, for the purpofe of fiOiing for the women. He replied, that
ihey were accuftomed to fifh for themfelves, and that I need not be appre-
henhve of their encroaching upon my provifions, as they were ufed to
fuftain themfelves in their journies on herbs, and the inner tegument of
the bark of trees, for the flripping of which he had a thin piece of bone,
then hanging by his fide. The latter is of a glutinous quality, of a
clammy, fweet tafte, and is generally confidered by the more interior In-
dians as a delicacy, rather than an article of common food. Our guide
informed me that there is a Ihort cut acrofs the mountains, but as there
was no trace of a road, and it would (horten our journey but one day, lie
fhould prefer the beaten way. (^r^i -.-fHn. oi

't':

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. .

We accordingly proceeded along a lake, Weft five miles. We then
croired a fhaall river, and pafTed through a fwamp, about South-
Weft, when we began gradually to afcend for fome time till we
gained the fummit of an hill, where we had an extenfive view to
the South-Eaft, from which dire6lion a confiderable river appeared to
flow, at the diftance of about three miles : it was reprefented to me
as being navigable for canoes. The defcent of this hill was more fteep
than its afcent, and was fucceeded by another, whofe top, though not
fo elevated as the lall, afforded a view of the range of mountains, co-
vered with fnow, which, according to the intelligence of our guide,
terminates in t'le ocean. We now left a fmall lake on our left, then
crofled a creek running out of it, and at one in the afternoon came to an
houfe, of the fame conftruftion and dimenfions as have already been men-
tioned, but the materials were much better prepared and finiftied. The
timber was fquared on two fides, and the bark taken off" the two others ;
the ridge pole was alfo fliaped in the fame manner, extending about eight
or ten feet beyond the gable end, and fupporting a ftied over the door:
the end of it was carved into the fimilitude of a fiiake's head. Several
hieroglyphics and figures of a fimilar workmanftiip, and painted with
red earth, decorated the interior of the building. The inhabitants had
left the houle but a (hort time, and there were leveral bags or bundles
in it, which I did not fuffer to be difturbed. Near it were two tombs, lUr-
rounded in a neat manner with boards, and covered with bark. Befide
them feveral poles had been crctled, one of which was fquared, and all of
them painted. From each of them were fufpendcd feveral rolls or par-
cels of bark, and our guide gave the following account of them; which,
as far as we could judge from our impcrfed knowledge of the language,

R r 2 and

307

1793.

Jul/.

3o8

1793-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

and the incidental errors of interpretation, appeared to involve two dif-
ferent modes of treating their dead ; or it might be one and the fame
ceremony, which we did not dillintUy comprehend : at all events, it is
the praftice of thefe people to burn the bodies of their dead, except the
larger bones, which are rolled up in bark and fufpended fr^ i poles, as I
have already defcribed. According to the other account, it appeared
that they aftually bury their dead; and when another of the family
dies, the remains of the perfon who was lad interred are taken from the
grave and burned, as has been already mentioned; fo that the members
of a family are thus fucceflively buried and burned, to make room for
each other; and one tomb proves fufficient for a family through fucceed-
ing generations. There is no houfe in this country without a tomb in
its vicinity. Our laft courfe extended about ten miles.

We continued our journey along the lake before the houfe, and, croff-
ing a river that flowed out of it, came to a kind of bank, or weir, formed
by the natives, for the purpofe of placing their fiChing machines, many
of which, of different fizes, were lying on the fide of the river. Our
guide placed one of them, with the certain expectation that on his return
he (hould find plenty of Hfh in it. We proceeded nine miles further, on
a good road, Wefl-South-Well, when we came to a fmall lake : we then
croffed a river that ran out of ii, and our guides were in continual ex-
pe6lation of meeting with fome of the natives. To this place our courfe
was a .mile and an half, in the fame diretUon as the laft. At nine at
night we croflcd a river on rafts, our lafl dillancc being about four miles
South-Eafl, on a winding road, through a fwampy country, and along a
fliccefhon of fmall lakes. We were now quite cxhaufled, and it was

abfblutely

NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

309

abfolutely neceflary for us to flop for the night. The weather being
clear throughout the day, we had no reafon to complain of the cold.
Our guides encouraged us with the hope that, in two days of fimilar
exertion, we fhould arrive among the people of the other nation.

»793'

July.

At five this rnorning we were "gain in motion, and palTing along a Monday 15.
river, we at length forded it. This ftream was not more than knee deep,
about thirty yards over, and with a ftoiiy bottom. The old n. n went
onward by himfelf, in the hope of failing in with the people, whom he
expefted to meet in the courfe of the day. At eleven we came up with
him, and the natives whom he cxpefted, confiiUng of five men, and
part of their families. They received us with great kindnefs, and ex-
amined us with the moft minute attention. They muft, however, have
been told that we were white, as our faces no longer indicated that dif-
tinguiOiing complexion. They called themfelves Neguia Dinais, and
were come in a different diredion from us, but were now going the fame
way, to the Anah-yoe Telfe or River, and appeared to be very much
fatisfied with our having joined them. They prefented us with fonie
fiih which they had jull taken in the adjoining lake. ■

'4*

Here I expe6ied that our guides, like their predecefi'brs, would have
quilted us, but, on the contrary, they expreflied themfelves !-> 'e fo happy
in our company, e»nd that of their friends, that they voluntarily, and
with great cheerfulnel's proceeded to pafs another night with us. Our
new acquaintance were people of a very pleafing afpefl. The hair of
the women was tied in large loofc knots over the cars, and plaited with
great neatnefs from the divifion of the head, fo as to be included in the

knots.

fm'

310

»793-

— Y-

?^f:vi;.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

knots. Some of them had adorned their treffes with beads, with a
very pretty cffeft. The men were clothed in leather, their hair was
nicely combed, and their complexion was fairer, or perhaps it may
be faid, with more propriety, that they were more cleanly, than any of
the natives whom we had yet feen. Their eyes, though keen and fharp,
are not of that dark colour, fo generally obfervable in the various tribes
of Indians; they were, on the contrary, of a grey hue, with a tinge of
red. There was one man amongd them of at lead fix feet four inches
in height ; his manners were affable, and he had a more prepoflTeding ap-
pearance than any Indian I had met with in my journey ; he was about
twenty-eight years of age, and was treated with particular refpe6l by his
party. Every man, woman, and child, carried a proportionate burden,
confining of beaver coating and parchment, as well as fkins of the otter,
the marten, the bear, the lynx, and drefled moofe-fkins. The lafl: they
procure from the Rocky-Mountain Indians. According to their account,
the people of the lea coaft prefer them to any other article. Several
of their relations and friends, they faid, were already gone, as well
provided as themfelves, to barter with the people of the coaft; who
barter them in their turn, except the drefled leather, with white people
who, as they had been informed, arrive there in large canoes.

Such an efcort was the moft fortunate circumftance that could happen
in our favour. They told us, that as the women and children could not
travel fafl, we fhould be three days in getting to the end of our journey ;
whicli mud be fuppofed to have been very agreeable information to
people in our exhauftcd condition.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

3^1

In about half an hour after we had joined our new acquaintance, the
fignal for moving onwards was given by the leader of the party, who
vociferated the words, Huy, Huy, when his people joined him and con-
tinued a clamorous converfatlon. We pafTed along a winding road over
hills, and through fwampy vallies, from South to \Vefl;. We then crofTed
a deep, narrow river, which difcharges itfelf into a lake, on whofe fide
we flopped at five in the afternoon, for the night, though we had re-
pofed feveral times fince twelve at noon ; fo that our mode of travelling
had undergone a very agreeable change. I compute the diRance of this
day's journey at about twenty miles. In the middle of the day the
weather was clear and fultry.

—^ —

We all fat down on a very pleafant green fpot, and were no fooner
feated, than our guide and one of the party prepared to engage in play.
They had each a bundle of about fifty fmall flicks, neatly polifhed, of the
fize of a quill, and five inches long: a certain number of thefe flicks had
red lines round them ; and as many of thefe as one of the players might
find convenient were curioufly rolled up in dry grafs, and according to
the judgment of his antagonift refpe6ling their number and, marks, he
lofl or won. Our friend was apparently the lofer, as he parted with
his bow and arrows, and feveral articles which I had given him.

The weather of this morning was the fame as yeflcrday ; but our fcl- Tutfihiy i6.
low-travellers were in no hurry to proceed, and I was under the neceffity
of prelfing them into greater expedition, by rcprefenting the almofl ex-
haufled flate of our provifions. They, however, affurcd us, that after
the next night's flecp we (hould arrive at the river wliere they were

312

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

going, and that we fhould there get fiHi in great abundance. My
young men, from an aft of imprudence, deprived themfelves laft night of
that reft which was fo necelTary to tlicm. One of the Grangers afking
them feveral queltions refpefting us, and concerning their own country,
one of them gave fuch aniwers as were not credited by the audience ;
whereupon he demanded, in a very angry tone, if they thought he was
difpofed to tell lies, like the Roeky-Mountain Indians ; and one of that
tribe happening to be of the party, a quarrel enfued, which might have
been attended with the moft ferious confequences, if it had not been for-
tunately prevented by the interference of ihofe who were not interefted
in the difputc.

Though our flock of provifions was getting fo low, I determined
neverthelefs, to hide about twenty pounds of pemmican, by way of pro-
viding againft our return. I therefore left two of the men behind, with
direftions to bury it, as ufual, under the place where we had made cur
fire.

Our courfe was about Weft-South- Weft by the fide of the lake, and
in about two miles we came to the end of it. Here was a general halt,
when my men overtook us. I was now informed, that fome people of
another tribe were fent for, who wiflied very much to fee us, two of
whom would accompany us over the mountains ; that, as for themfelves,
they had changed their mind, and intended to follow a fmall river which
iflued out of the lake, and went in a dire6Hon very different from the
line of our journey. This was a difappointmcnt, which, though not un-
common to us, might have been followed by confiderable inconveniences.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

It was my wilh to continue with them whatever way they went ; but
neither my promifes or entreaties would avail : thefe people were not to
be turned from their purpofe ; and when I reprefented the low ftate of our
provifions, one of them anfwered, that if we would ftay with them all
night, he would boil a kettle of filh-roes for us. Accordingly, without
receiving any anfwer, he began to make preparation to fulfil his en-
gagement. He took the roes out of a bag, and having bruifed them
between two Hones, put them in water to foak. His wife then took an
handful of dry grafs in her handj with which fhe fqueezed them through
her fingers ; in the mean time her hufband was employed in gathering
wood to make a fire, for the purpofe of heating ftones. When fhe
had finifhed her operation, fhe filled a watape kettle nearly full of water,
and poured the roes into it. When the flones were fufficiently heated,
fome of them were put into the kettle, and others were thrown in from
time to time, till the water was in a ftate of boiling ; the woman alfo con-
tinued ftirring the contents of the kettle, till they were brought to a thick
confillency ; the ftones were then taken out, and the whole was feafoned
with about a pint of ftrong rancid oil. The fmell of this curious didi
was fufficient to ficken me without tafting it, but the hunger of ray
people furmounted the naufeous meal. When unadulterated by the
blinking oil, thefe boiled roes are not unpalatable food.

313

I,.-;

In the mean time four of the people who had been expefted, arrived,
and, according to the account given of them, were of two tribes whom
I had not yet known. After fome convcrfation, they propofcd, that I
fhould continue my route by their houfes ; but the old guide, who was now
preparing to leave us, informed me thatjt would lengthen my journey ;

S s and

1793'

July.

»793'

jour>:al of a voyage through the

and by his advrce I propofed to them to condu£l us along the road which
had been already marked out to us. This they undertook without the
leaft hefitation ; and, at the fame time, pointed out to me the pafs in the
mountain, bearing South by Eaft by compafs. Here I had a meridian
altitude, and took time.

At four in the afternoon we parted with our late fellow-travellers in a
very friendly manner, and immediately forded the river. The wild
parfnep, which luxuriates on the borders of the lakes and rivers, is a
favourite food of the natives : they roaft the tops of this plant, in their
tender (late, over the fire, and taking off the outer rind, they are then
a very palatable food.

We now entered the woods, and fome time after arrived on the
banks of another river that flowed from the mountain, which we alfo
forded. The country foon after we left the river was fwampy ; and the
fire having paffed through it, the number of trees, which had fallen, added
to the toil of our journey. In a fliort time we began to afcend, and con-
tinued afcending till nine at night. We walked upwards of fourteen
miles, according to my computation, in the courfe of the day, though the
ftraight line of diftance might not be more than ten. Notwithftanding
that we were furrounded by mountains covered with fnow, we were very
much tormented with mufquitoes.

Wcdnef. t^, Before the fun rofe, our guides fummoned us to proceed, when we de-
fcended into a beautiful valley, watered by a fmall river. At eight we
came to the termination of it, where we faw a great number of moles,

and

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

and began again to afcend. We now perceived many ground-hogs,
and heard them whiftle in every direflion. The Indians went in pur-
fuit of them, and foon joined us with a female and her Utter, almoft
grown to their full fize. They dripped oft" their (kins, and gave the car-
cafes to my people. They alfo pulled up a root, which appeared like
a bunch of while berries of the fize of a pea; its fhape was that of
a fig, while it had the colour and tafte of a potatoe.

* W^e now gained the fummit of the mountain, and found ouifclves
furrounded by fnow. But this circumftance is caufed rather by the
quantity of fnow drifted in the pafs, than the real height of the fpot,
as the furrounding mountains rife to a much higher degree of eleva-
tion. The fnow had become fo compaft that our feet hardly made
a perceptible impreffion on it. We obferved, however, the tracks of
an herd of fmall deer which mufl have pafied a fhort time before us,
and the Indians and my hunters went immediately in purfuit of them.
Our way was now nearly level, without the leall fnow, and not a tree to
be feen in any part of it. The grafs is very Ihort, and the foil a reddifti
clay, intermixed with fmall (lones. The face of the hills, where they are
not enlivened with verdure, appears, at a diflance, as if fire had pafied
over them. It now began to hail, fnow, and rain, nor could we find
any flielter but the leeward fide of an huge rock. The wind alfo rofe
into a tempeft, and the weather was as dillreflTmg as any I had ever
experienced. After an abfence of an hour and an half, our hunters
brought a fmall doe of the rein-deer fpecies, which was all they had
killed, though they fired twelve fhots at a large herd of them. Their ill

S s 2 fuccefs

315

V793-
J my.

!■».!

1.1 1

SiS

»793«

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fuccefs they attributed to the weather. I propofed to leave half of the ve-
nifon in the fnow, but the men preferred carrying it, though their ftrength
was very much exhaufled. We had been fo long Ihivering with cold in
this fituaticn that we were glad to renew our march. Here and there
were fcattered a few crowberry bufhes and ftinted willows; the former
of which had not yet bloffomed.

Before us appeared a flupendous mountain, whofe fnow-clad fummit
was loft in the clouds ; between it and our immediate courfe, flowed the
river to which -wq were going. The Indians informed us that it was at
no great diftance. As foon as we could gather a fufficient quantity of
wood, we flopped to drefs fome of our venifon ; and it is almoft fuper-
fluous to add, that we made an heartier meal than we had done for many
a day before. To the comfort which I have juft mentioned, I added that
of taking off my beard, as well as changing my linen, and my people fol-
lowed the humanifing example. We then fet forwards, and came to a
large pond, on whofc bank we found a tomb, but lately made, with a
pole, as ufual, erefted befide it, on which two figures of birds were paint-
ed, and by them the guides diftinguifhfed the tribe to which the deceafed
perfon belonged. One of them, very unceremonioufly, opened the bark
and (hewed us the bones, '•.vhich it contained, while the other threw down
the pole, and having poffefted himfelf of the feathers that were tied to it,
fixed them on his own head. I therefore conje6lured, that thefe funeral
memorials belonged to an individual of a tribe at enmity with them.

We continued our route with a confiderable degree of expedition, and
as we proceeded the mountains appeared to withdraw from us. The

, ,: country

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

3^7

country between them foon opened to our view, which apparently added
to their awful c levation. We continued to defcend till we came to the
brink of a precipice, from whence our guides difcovered the river to us,
and a village on its banks. This precipice, or rather fucceffion of pre-
cipices, is covered with large timber, which confifts of the pine, the
fpruce, the hemlock, the birch, and other trees. Our conduftors in-
formed us, that it abounded in animals, which, from their defcription,
mull be wild goats. In about two hours we arrived at the bottom, where
there is a conflux of two rivers, that iffue from the mountains. We crofTed
the one which was to the left. They are both very rapid, and con-
tinue fo till they unite their currents, forming a ftream of about twelve
yards in breadth. Here the timber was alfo very large; but I could not
learn from our condu6lors why the moft confiderable hemlock trees were
flripped of their bark to the tops of them. I concluded, indeed, at that
time that the inhabitants tanned their leather with it. Here were alfo
the largell and loftiefl; elder and cedar trees that I had ever feen. We
were now fenfible of an entire change in the climate, and the berries
were quite ripe.

»793-

July.

■im

The fun was about to fet, when our condu6lors left us to follow them
as well as we could. We were prevented, however, from going far
aftray, for we were hemmed in on both fides and behind by fuch a barrier
as nature never before prefented to my view. Our guides had the pre-
caution to mark the road for us, by breaking the branches of trees as
they paffed. This fmall river mult, at certain ftafons, rife lo an uncom-
mon height and rtrength of current moft probably on the melting of
the fnow ; as we faw a large quantity of drift wood lying twelve feet above
... , "^ the

3i8

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

the immediate level of the river. This circumflance impeded our pro-
grefs, and the protruding rocks frequently forced us to pafs through the
water. It was now dark, without the leafl: appearance of houfes, though
it would be impoffible to have feen them, if there had been any, at the
diftance of twenty yards, from the thicknefs of the woods. My men
were anxious to ftop for the night; indeed the fatigue they had fuffered
juUified the propofal,and I left them to their choice; but as the anxiety
of my mind impelled me forv.'ards, they continued to follow me, till I
found myfelf at the edge of the woods; and, notwithllanding the remon-
ftrances that were made, I proceeded, feeling rather than feeing my way,
till I arrived at an houfe, and foon difcovered feveral fires, in fmall huts,
with people bufily employed in cooking their fifli. I walked into one
of them widiout the leall ceremony, threw dowrv my burden, and, after
fhaking hands with fome of the people, fat down upon it. They re-
ceived me without the leaft appearance of furprize, but foon made figns
for me to go up to »he large houfe, which was crefted, on upright pods, at
fome diftance from the ground. A broad piece of limber with Reps cut in
it, led to the fcadolding even v;ith the floor, and by this curious kind of
ladder I entered the houfe at one end; and having paffid three fires, at
equal diflances in the middle of the building, I was received by feveral peo-
ple, fitting upon a very wide board, at the upper end of it. 1 (hook hands
with them, and feated myfelf befide a man, the dignity of whole counte-
nance induced me to givchim that preference. I foon difcovered oneofmy
guides feated a little above me, with a neat mat fprcad before him, which
I fuppofed to be the place of honour, and appropriated to (I rangers. In
a ihort time my people arrived, and placed thenililvcs near me, when
jhe man by whom I fat, immediately rofc, and fetched, from behind a

plank

-' -'■^"■'■"■t^'''

3^1

»793'

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

plaak of about four feet wide, a quantity of roalled falrnon. He then
direfted a mat to be placed before me and Mr. Mackay, who was now '
fitting by me. When this ceremony was performed, he brought a falmon
for each of us, and half an one to each of my men. The fame plank
ferved alfo as a fcreen for the beds, whither the women and children
were already retired ; but whether that circumftance took place on our
arrival, or was the natural confequence of the late hour of the night, I
did not difcover. The figns of our protestor feemed to denote, that we
might fleep in the houfe, but as we did not underftand him with a fuffi-
cicnt degree of certainty, I thought it prudent, from the fear of giv-
ing offence, to order the men to make a fire without, that we might
fleep by it. When he obferved our defign, he placed boards for us that
we might not take our repofe on the bare ground, and ordered a fire to
be prepared for us. We had not been long feated round it, when we re-
ceived a large di(h of falmon roes, pounded fine and beat up with
water fo as to have the appearance of a cream. Nor was it without feme
kind of fcafoning that gave it a bitter tafte. Another difh foon followed,
the principal article of which was alfo (iximon-roes, with a large propor-
tion of gooleberries, and an herb that appeared to be forrel. Its acidity
rendered it more agreeable to my tafic than the former preparation.
Having been regaled with thcfe delicacies, for fuch they were confidcred
by that hofpitablc fpirit which provided ihem, we laid ourfelves down
to red with no other canopy than the Iky ; but I never enjoyed a more
found and refrcOiing rell, though I had a board for my bed, and a bil-
let for my pillow. ' ' ■ ' ' «

At five this morning 1 awoke, and found that the natives had lighted 'ii,urMayi8.

a fire

I, , "

iV. itf, 'fi

"•ft

320

June.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

a fire for us, and were fitting by it. My hofpitable friend immediately
brought me fome berries and roafted falmon, and his companions foon
followed his example. The former, which confiRed among many others,
of goofeberries, whirtleberries and rafpberries, were the finefl: I ever faw
or tailed, of their refpe£live kinds. They alfo brought the dried roes of
filh to eat with the berries.

Salmon is fo abundant in this river, that thefe people have a conflant
and plentiful fupply of that excellent filh. To take them with more
facility, they had, with great labour, formed an embankment or weir
acrofs the river for the purpofe of placing their fifhing machines, which
they difpofed both above and below it. I expreffed my wifli to vifit
this extraordinary work, but thefe people are fo fuperltitious, that they
would not allow me a nearer examination than I could obtain by view-
ing it from the bank. The river is about fifty yards in breadth, and by
obferving a man fifii with a dipping net, I judged it to be about ten feet
deep at the foot of the fall. The weir is a work of great labour, and
contrived with confiderablc ingenuity. It was near four Icet above the
level of the water, at the time I faw it, and nearly the height of the bank
on which I Hood to examine it. The flream is Hopped nearly two tliirds
by it. It is conflruded by fixing fmall trees in the bed of the river
in a Hunting pofition (which could be praflicable only when the water
is much lower than 1 faw it) with the thick part downwards ; over
thefe is laid a bed of gravel, on which is placed a range of Icffer
trees, and i'o on alternately till the work is brought to its pioper
height. Beneath it the machines arc placed, into which the falmon
fall when they attempt to leap over. On cither fide there is a large
I frame

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

frame of timber-work fix feet above the level of the upper water, in
which paffages are left for the falmon leading direftly into the machines,
which are taken up at pleafure. At the foot of the fail dipping nets
are alfo fuccefsfuUy employed, :; . .i^w, t ,

The water of this river is of the colour of afles milk, which I attributed
in part to the limeflone that in many places forms the bed of the river,
but principally to the rivulets which fall from mountains of the fame
material.

Thefe people indulge an extreme fuperftition refpefting their fifh, as
it is apparently their only animal food. Flefh they never tafte, and one
of their dogs having picked and fwallowed part of a bone which we had
left, was beaten by his mailer till he difgorged it. One of my people
alfo having thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a native, who had
obferved the circumftance, immediately dived and brought it up, and,
having configned it to the fire, inflantly proceeded to wafh his polluted
hands. ,, . , v;

As we were Hill at fome dillance from the fea, I made application to
my friend to procure us a canoe or two, with people to condu6l us
thither. After he had made various excules, 1 at length comprehended
that his only objc6lion was to the embarking venilbn in a canoe on their
river, as the fidi would inltantly fniell it and abandon thcin, fo that he,
his friends, and relations, mufl Itarvc. I foon eafed his apprehenfions on
that point, and dcfired to know what I mufl do with the vcnifon that
remained, when he told me to give it to one of the flrangers whom he

T t pointed

33i

1703.

July.

- ,j

"'' f't i

I. 1

'. ^'t

) il. J

1793--

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

pointed out to me, as being of a tribe that eat flefh. I now requefled
. im to furnifti me with I'ome frelh falmon in its? raw ftate ; but, inilead
of complying with my wi(h, he brought me a couple of them roafted,
obferving at the fame time, that the current was very ftrong, and would
bring us to the next village, where our wants would be abundantly fup-
plied. In (hort, he requeftcd that we would make halte to depart. 1 his
was rather unexpc61cd after fo much kindnefs and hofpitality, but our
ignorance of the language prevented us from being able to difcover the
caufe. .= . .

''■ At eight this morning, fifteen men armed, thefiiends and relations of
' thefe people, arrived by land, in confequence of notice fent them in the
night, immediaf'ly after the appearance of our guides. They are more
corpulent and of a better appearance than the inhabitants of the interior.
Their language totally different from any I had heard ; the Atnah and
Chin tribe, as far as I can judge from the very little I faw of that people,
bear the neareft refemblance to them. They appear to be of a quiet and
peaceable chara6ler, and never make any hollile incurfions into the lands
of their neighbours, ,

Their drefs confills of a fingle robe tied over the flioulders, falling
down behind, to the heels, and before, a little below the knees, with u deep
fringe round the bottom. It is generally made of the bark of the cedar
tree, which they prepare as fine as hemp ; though fome of iliele ganrients
arc interwoven with ftrips of the lea-otter (kin, which give them the appear-
ance of a fur on one ficle. Others have llripes of red and yellow threads
fancifully introduced toward the borders, which have a very agreeable
' • : efic6l,

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERIC^.

effe£l. The men have no other covering than that which I have de-
fcribed, and they unceremonicufly lay it afide when they find it conve-
nient. In addition to this robe, the women wear a clofe fringe hanging
down before them about two feet in length, and half as wide. When
they fit down they draw this between their thighs. They wear their
hair fo fhort, that it requires little care or combing. The men have
theirs in plaits, and being fmeared with oil and red earth, inflead of a
comb they have a fmall flick han^-'ng by a Itring from one of the locks,
which they employ to alleviate any itching or irritation in the head.
The colour of the eys is grey with a tinge of red. They have all high
cheek-bones, but the women are more remarkable for that feature than
the men. Their houfes, arms, and utenfils I fhail defcribe hereafter.

'3^

»793«

July.

1 prefented my friend with feveral articles, and alio diflributed fome
among others of the natives who had been attentive to us. One of my
guides had been very ferviceable in procuring canoes for us to proceed
on our expedition ; he appeared alfo to be very defirous of giving thefe
people a favourable imprelTion of us ; and I was very much concerned
that he fhould leave me as he did, without giving me the leaft notice of
his departure, or receiving the prefents which I had prepared for him,
and he lb well dcfcrved. At noon I had an obfervation which gave

c2. 28. 11. North longitude.

v.^li .,-1.

"•{

■I j< w ■»

'}■■; hi*.(i 6:iL'..>d ^>vfJt 4.

Tt2

jTv/chs.

CHAP.

'•Siw-d^

IJ-

™ '1 ;i

mw.iu

324

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

*-;.'^ *;'...

nt^-]''*,-

.':. yloliy »;^ir •>'

CHAPTER X.

■/t".:ri •t#i'=;sr J? ..A t

,,il:

' <

I'l "'■

Continue cur journey. Embark on & river. Come to d weir. Dexterity
of the natives in pajjing it. Arrive at a village. Alarm occajionti
among the natives. The fuhfequent favourable reception^ accompanied
\ xjiiith a banquet of ceremmy. Circum/iances of it. Defer iption of a
\ village, its houfes, and places of devotion. Account of the cu/ioms, mode
■ of living, and fuperjiition of the inhabitants. Defcription of the chiefs
. canoe. Leave the place, and proceed on our voyage.

■.Mx::k "■:,

"»*i(-'|-"h"-Md'1'J^'t''

>793«

J"iy.

'^f- f

■%.^>-':^'m'l

jlVt one in the afternoon we embarked, with our fmall baggage, in
two canoes, accompanied by feven of the natives. The flream was rapid,
and ran upwards of fix miles an hour. We came to a weir, fuch as I
have already defcribed, where the natives landed us, and fliot over it
without taking a drop of water. They then received us on board again,
^nd we continued our voyage, pafling many canoes on the river, fome
with people in them, and others empty. We proceeded at a very great
rate for about two hours and an half, when we were informed that we
mufl: land, as the village was only at a Ihort diltance. I had imagined
that the Canadians who accompanied mc were the mofl; expert canoe-
njen in the world, but they are very inferior to thefe people, as they
themfelves acknowledged, in conducing thofe velTels.

Some

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

Some of the Indians ran before us, to announce our approach, when
we took our bundles and followed. We had walked along a well-beaten
path, through a kind of coppice, when we were informed of the anival
of our couriers at the houfes, by the loud and confufed talking of the
inhabitants. As we approached the edge of the wood, and were almolt
in fight of the houfes, the Indians who were before me made figns for
me to take the lead, and that they would follow. The noife and con-
fufion of the natives now feemed to encreafe, and when we came in
fight of the village, we faw them running from houfe to houfe, fome
armed with bows and arrows, others with fpears, and many with axes, as
if in a flate of great alarm. This very unpleafant and unexpe6led cir-
cumftance, I attributed to our fudden arrival, and the very fiiort notice
of it which had been given them. A, '' events, I had but one line of
condu6l to purfue, which was to walk refolutely up to them, without
manifelling any figns of apprehenfion at their hoftile appearaycc. This
refolution produced the deli red effetl, for as we approached the houfes,
the greater part of the people laid down their weapons, and came forward
to meet us. 1 was, however, foon obliged to flop from the number of
them that furrounded me. I fhook hands, as ufual with fuch as were
the nearefl to me, when an elderly man broke through the crowd, and
took me in his arms; another then came, who turned him away without
the leaft ceremony, and paid me the fame compliment. The latter was
followed by a young man, whom I unierflood to be his f'on. Thefe
embraces, which at firff rather fijrpriled me, 1 foon found to be marks
of regard and fricndlhip. The crowd preffed with fo much violence
and contention to get a view of us, that we could not move in any
direftion. An opening was at length made to allow a perfon to
'*•* approach

325

»793-
July.

326

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

approach me, whom the old man made me underfland was another of
his fons. I inftantly ftepped forward to meet him, and prefented my
hand, whereupon he broke the firing of a very handfome robe of fea-
otter fkin, which he had on, and covered me with it. This was as flat-
tering a reception as "ou^ . ofTioly receive, efpecially as I confidered
him to be the eldeft fort -.-( ■ '.< -hief Indeed it appeared to me that we
had been detained here i .ae ^»') pofe of giving him time to bring the
robe with which he had prefented nK . , ^^im/.^i^i M>:imiin

i' The chief now made figns for us to follow him, and he condu6led us
through a narrow coppice, for feveral liundred yards, till we came to an
houfe built on the ground, which was of larger dimenfions, and formed
of better materials than any I had hitherto feen ; it was his relidence.
We were no fooner arrived there, than he directed mats to be fpread
before it, on which we were told to take our feats, when the men of the
village, who came to indulge their curiofity, were ordered to keep behind
us. In our front other mats were placed, where the chief and his coun-
fellors took their feats. In the intervening fpace, mats, which were very
clean, and of a much neater workmanlhip than thofe on which we fat were
alfo fpread, and a fmall roafled falmon placed before each of us. When
we had fatisfied ourlelves with the filli, one of the people who came with
us from the laft village approached, with a kind of ladle in one hand,
containing oil, and in the other fomething that refembled the inner rind
of the cocoa-nut, but of a lighter colour; this he dipped in the oil, and,
having eat it, indicated by his geftures how palatable he thought it. He
then prefented me with a fmall piece of it, which I cliofe to tafte in its dry
(late, though the oil was free from any unplealant fmell. A fquare cake

».

I » iijiim

NORTH-WEST CONTINflNT OF AME^CA.

3^7

of this wa§ next produced, when a man took it to the water near the
houfe, and having thoroughly foaked it, he returned, and, after he had
pulled it to pieces like oakum, put it into a well-made trough, about three
feet long, nine inches widcj and five deep ; he then plentifully fprinkled
it with falmon oil, and manifefted by his oWn example that we were to
eat of it. Ijuft tafted it, and found the oil perfeftly fweer, without which
the other ingredient would have been very infipid. The chief partook
of it with great avidity, after it had received an ad aonal quantity of
oil. This dilh is confide red by thefe people as a great o 'cacy ; and on
examination, I difcovered it to confift of the inner rind of the hemlock
tree, taken off early in fummer, and put into a fra: e, which fhapes ij:
into cakes of fifteen inches long, ten broad, and ulf an inch thick ; and
in this form I fhould fuppofe it may be pieferved for a great length of
time. This difcovery fatisfied me refpefting the many hemlock trees
which I had obferved dripped of their bark. . ,., {,, j. jo.vkt; i.j.- M(i •:>/

' In this fituation we remained for upv/ards of three hours, and not one
of the curious natives left us during all that time, except a party of ten
or twelve of them, whom the chief ordered to go and catch fifh, which
they did in great abundance, with dipping nets, at the foot of the
Wtir.

c-.

j-'y-

*,,'«

^i J

't; v^A^fifs' j/hJ tan

At length we were relieved from the gazing crowd, and got a lodge
ere£led, and covered in for our reception during the night. I now pre-
fented the young chief with a blanket, in return for the robe with which
he had favoured me, and fevcral other articles, that appeared to be very
gratifying to him, I aUb prelented Ibrae to his father, and amongfl. them

■I*

was

32B

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

was a pair of fci#ars, Whofe ufe I explain€d to him, for clipping his
beard, which was of great length ; and to that purpofe he immediately
applied them. My diftribution of fimilar articles was alfo extended to
others, who had been attentive to us. The communication, howeven
between us was awkward and inconvenient, for it was carried on entirely
by figns, as there was not a perfon with me who was qualified for the
office of an interpreter.

ry)'fr,:/':.i on.

'■ We were all of us very defirous to get fome frefh falmon, that we
might drefs them in our own way, but could not by any means obtain
that gratification, though there were thoufands of that fifti ftrung on
cords, which were faftened to flakes in the river. They were even
averfe to our approaching the fpot where they clean and prepare them
for their own eating. They had, indeed, taken our kettle from us, left
we (hould employ it in getting water from the river; and they afTigned
as the reafon for this precaution, that the falmon diflike the fmell of iron.
At the fame time they fupplied us with wooden boxes, which were capa-
ble of holding any fluid. Two of the men that went to fifti, in a canoe
capable of containing ten people, returned with a full lading of falmon,
that weighed from fix to forty pounds, though the far greater part of
them were under twenty. They immediately ftrung the whole of them,
as I have already mentioned, in the river.

iry.

I.,' ,1T-

> I now made the tour of the village, which confifted of four elevated
houfes, and feven built on the ground, befides a confiderable number of
other buildings or ftieds, which are ufed only as kitchens, and places
for curing their fi(h. The former are conftru6led by fi^xing a certain
M''iff number

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

number of pofts in the earth, on fome of which are laid, and to others are
faftened, the fupponers of the floor, at about twelve feet above the furface
of the ground : their length is from an hundred to an hundred and twenty
feet, and they are about forty feet in breadth. Along the centre are
built three, four, or five hearths, for the two-fold purpofe of giving
warmth, and drefling their fifh. The whole length of the building on
either fide is divided by cedar planks, into partitions or apartments of
feven feet fquare, in the front of which there are boards, about three feet
wide, over which, though they are not immovably fixed, the inmates of
thefe receffes generally pafs, when they go to reft. The greater part of
them are intended for that purpofe, and fuch are covered with boards, at
the height of the wall of the houle, which is about feven or eight feet,
and reft upon beams that ftretch acrofs the building. On thofe alfo are
placed the chefts which contain their provifions, utenfils, and whatever
they poflefs. The intermediate fpace is fuHicient for domeftic pur-
pofes. On poles that run along the beams, hang roafted filh, and the
whole building is well covered with boards and bark, except within a
few inches of the ridge pole; where open fpaces are left on each fide
to let in light and emit the fmoke. At the end of the houfe that fronts
the river, is a narrow fcaftblding, which is alio alcended by a piece of
timber, with ftepscut in it; and at each corner of this ere£lion there are
openings, for the inhabitants to eafe nature. As it does not appear to
be a euftom among them to remove thefe heaps of excremental filth,
it may be fuppofed that the effluvia does not annoy them. = - <

The houfes which reft on the ground are built of the fame materiafe,
and on the fame plan, A iloping ftage that riles to a crofs piece of t imber,

U u. fupported,

«793-

.!(,

::,. i

H „»'

330

»793'
July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

fupported by two forks, joins alfo to the main building, for thofe pur-
pofes which need not be repeated. \

When we were furrounded by the natives on our arrival, I counted
fixty-five men, and feveral of them may be fuppofed to have been abfent;
I cannot, therefore, calculate the inhabitants of this village at lefs than
two hundred fouls.

1 ' ; :iK!, t. ■

/•"i"'

7 yrf:'i:'tm ^-iVTSv;'^^;; .■:•(•;■ i-'^rjj'ff;'-;

I The people who accompanied us hither, from the other village,
had given the chief a very particular account of every thing they knew
concerning us : I was, therefore, requefted to produce my aflronomical
inftruments ; nor could I have any obje6lion to afford them this fatis-
fa£lion, as they would neceflarily add to our importance in their
opinion. , ,,.„,,.. ,,,,.-,,.. „,,. .. ,. , , •

" ' '■ • ^^" ^.J'.

,.) ■ ,

Near the houfe of the chief I obferved feveral oblong fquares, of

about twenty feet by eight. They were made of thick cedar boards,

which were joined with fo much neatnefs, that I at firit thought they

were one piece. They were painted with hieroglyphics, and figures

of different animals, and with a degree of correftnefs that was not to

be expefted from fuch an uncultivated people. I could not learn

the ufe of them, but they appeared to be calculated for occafional

a6ls of devotion or facrifice, which all thefe tribes perform at leafl

twice in the year, at the fpring and fall. I was confirmed in this opinion

by a large building in the middle of the village, which I at firfl took for

the half finiflied frame of an houfe. The ground-plot of it was fifty

feet by forty, five; each end is formed by four flout polls, fixed perpen-

tYxiViHif' . dicularly

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

dicularly in the ground. The corner ones are plain, and fuppof t a beam
of the whole length, having three intermediate props on each (ide, but of *-
a larger fize, and eight or nine feet ui height. The two centre pofts, at
each end, are two feet and an half in diameter, and carved into human
figures, fupporting two ridge poles on their heads, at twelve feet Oom
the ground. The figures at the upper part of this fquare reprefent two
perfons, with their hands upon their knees, as if they fupported the
weight with pain and difficulty: the others oppofite to them ftand
at their eafe, with their hands refting on their hips. In the area of
the building there were the remains of feveral fires. The pofts, poles,
and figures, were painted red and black; but the fculpture of thefe
people is fuperior to their painting. . :^ «^; ., -<.i.-

331

»793«

:.* ..■!&■. r^ '^i^

Soon after I had retired to reft laft night, the chief paid me a vifit to Friday ig.
infift On my going to his bed-companion, and taking my place himfelf;
but, notwithrtanding his repeated entreaties, I refifted this offering ot jis
hofpitality. /^ in, .^^ i * .-1 »

. ^,,(1 ?>;j> if ^^■^U^■a 7?ii

■^•f V j ■ i "'if iB''A;-f ,:i' ■ i..

' ft'M ^:ii

' At an early hour this morning I was again vifited by the chief, in com-
pany with his fon. The former complained of a pain in his breall ; to
relieve his fuffering, I gave him a few drops of Turlington's Balfam on a
piece of fug »r ; and I was rather furpriled to lee him take it without the
Kaft hefita ion. When he had taken my medicine, he requefted me to
follow him, and conduced me to a fhed, where feveral people were af-
femblcd round a fick man, who was another of his fons. They immediately
uncovered him, and (hewed me a violent ulcer in the fmall of his back,
in the foulcfl ft^te th^t can be imagined. One of his knees was alfo

U u 2 afflicie

'ftl,:l>tU'

332

1793-
July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

afflifled in the fame manner. This unhappy man was reduced to A
{keleton, and, from his appearance, was drawing near to an end of his
pains. They requefted that I would touch him, and his father was very
urgent with me to adminifter medicine ; but he was in fuch a dangerous
Rate, that I thought it prudent to yield no further to the importunities
than to give the fick perfon a few drops of Turlington's balfam in fome
water. I therefore left them, but was foon called back by the loud
lamentations of the women, and was rather apprehenfive that fome in-
convenience might refult from my compliance with the chief's requeft.
On my return I found the native phyficians bufy in praflifing their
(kill and art on the patient. They blew on him, and then whittled ; at
times they preffed their extended fingers, with all their ftrength on his
ftomach ; they alfo pilt their fore fingers doubled into his mouth, and
fpouted water from their own with great violence into his face. To
fupnort thele operations the wretched fufferer was held up in a fitting
pofture ; and when they were concluded, he was laid down and covered
with a new robe made of the fli^in of a lynx. 1 had obferved that his belly
and breaft were covered with fears, and I underfiood that they were
caufed by acultom prevalent among them, of applying pieces of lighted
tnuch-wood to their flefh, in order to relieve pain or demonflrate their
courage. He was now placed on a broad plank, and carried by fix
men into the woods, where I was invited to accompany them. I could
not conjefture what would be the end of this ceremony, particularly
as I faw one man carry fire, another an axe, and a third dry wood. I
was, indeed, difpofed to fufpecl that, as it was their cuUom to burn the
dead, they intended to relieve the poor man from his pain, and perform
the lad fad duty of furviving affedion. When they had advanced a fhort

dillance

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

dlftance into the wood, they laid him upon a clear fpot, and kindled a
fire againft his back, when the phyfician began to fcarify the ulcer with
a very blunt inftrument, the cruel pain of which operation the patient
bore, with incredible refolution. The fcene affiifted me and I left it.

333

«793-

On my return to our lodge, I obferved before the door of the chief's
refidence, four heaps of falmon, each of which confifted of between
three and four hundred fifti. Sixteen women were employed in clean-
ing and preparing them. They firft feparate the head from the body,
the former of which they boil; they then cut the latter down the back on
each fide of the bone, leaving one third of the fi(h adhering to it, and
afterwards take out the guts. The bone is roafted for immediate ufe,
and the other parts are dreffed in the fame manner, but with more atten-
tion, for future provifion. While they are before the fire, troughs are
placed under them to receive the oil. The roes are alfo carefully pre-
fcrved, and form a favourite article of their food. , , ,

.: t > !'

•r;

After I had obferved thefe culinary preparations, I paid a vifit to the
chief, who prelented me with a roalled falmon ; he then opened one of
his chells, and took out of it a garment of blue cloth, decorated with
brafs buttons ; and another of a flowered cotton, which I fuppofed were
Spanifh ; it had been trimmed with leather fringe, after the fafhion of
their own cloaks. Copper and brafs arc in great eilimation among them,
and of the former they have great plenty : they point their arrows
and fpears with it, and work it up into pcrfonal ornaments ; fuch as col-
lars, ear-rings, and bracelets, which they wear on their wrifts, arms, and
legs. I prelumc they find it tiie mod advantageous article of trade wiih

the

•. ii\

iHi

334

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

the more inland tribes. They alfo abound in iron I faw fome of their
-" twifted collars of that metal which weighed upwards of twelve pounds.
It is generally beat into bars of fourteen inches in length, and one
inch three quarters wide. The brafs is in thin fquares: their copper
' is in larger pieces, and fome of it appeared to be old Hills cut up.
They have various trinkets; but their iron is manufactured only into
poniards and daggers. Some of the former have very neat handles, with
a filver coin of a quarter or eighth of a dollar fixed on the end of them.
The blades of the latter are from ten to twelve inches in length, and about
four inches broad at the top, from which they gradually leffen into a
point. ■■• ■■ . *■.•■'- ■■'■,'.'-■,'■■'■

When I produced my inftruments to take an altitude, I was defired not
to make ufe of them. I could not then difcover the caufe of this re-
queft, but I experienced the good efi'eft of the apprehenfion which they
occalioned, as it was very effeftual in haftening my departure. I had
applied feveral times to the chief to prepare canoes and people to take
mc and my party to the fea, hvt very little attention had been paid to
my application till noon; when I was informed that a canoe was pro-
perly equipped for my voyage, and that the young chief would accom-
pany me. 1 now difcovercd that they had entertained no perfonal fear
of the inftruments, but were apprehenfive that the operation of them
might frighten the falmon from that part of the river. The obfervation
taken in this village gave mc 52. 25. 52 North latitude.

In compliance wiih the chief's requed I defired my people to take
t!\cir bundles, and lay them down on the bank of the river, In tlK mean

time

li if'

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

time I went to take the dimenfions of his large canoe, in which, it was
fignified to me, that about ten winters ago he went a confiderable dif-
tance towards the mid-day fun, with forty of his people, when he faw
two large veflels full of fuch men as myfelf, by whom he was kin'ily re-
ceived : they were, he faid, the firft white people he had feen. They
were probably the fhips commanded by Captain Cook. This canoe was
built of c^dar, forty-five feet long, four feet wide, and three feet and a
half in depth. It was painted black and decorated with white figures
of fi{h of different kinds. The gunwale, fore and aft, was inlaid with the
tcetli ofthefea-otter.*

When I returned to the river, the natives who were to accompany us,
and my people, were already in the canoe. The latter, however, in-
formed me, that one of our axes was miffing. I immediately applied
to the chief, and requefled its reftoration ; but he would not underfland
me till I fat myfelf down on a flone, with my arms in a flate of pre-
paration, and made it appear to him that I fliould not depart till the
ftolen article was reftored. The village was immediately in a ilatc of
uproar, and fome danger was apprehended from the confufion that
prevailed in it. The axe, however, which had been hidden under the
chief's canoe, was foon returned. Though this inflrnment was not, in
itfelf, of fulficient value to juftify a difpute with thefe people, I appro-
bended that the fuffering them to keep it, after we had declared its lofs^

• A< Captain Coi kc lut mentioned, tliat the people of tlic fea-roaft adorned tlicir ciinocs u-ith
human teeth, I w;u more particiil.ir in my iiicjuiric? ; the leCult of wliich vvas, ilie moll (.itinfictuiy
proof, that he was miflaken : Init his millakc arolb from the very great rell-iiibl incc there h between
human tcetli and thule. of tlie lea-utter.

niigiit

335

»793-

July-

^^ill

■u

336 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH IHE

i'^95- might have occafioned the lofs of every thing we carried with us, and
— ' of our lives alfo. My people were difTatisfed with me at the moment;
but 1 thought myfeir right then, and, I think now, that the circumftances
in which we were involved, juftified the meafure which i adopted.

.•'(

r » I ,

r-n

, 1"*"

CHAP.

.^^ *^^^-^:

NORTH-WEST CONTP ^LNT OF AMERICA.

V'.fl>;rBl,:;;KW .^:m ^; ''•,■,. h,;.

CHAPTER XL

I 'H.-

Renew our voyage. Circumjlances of the river. Land at the hoitfe of a
chief. Entertained by him. Carried down the river with great rapidity
to anotlier houfe. Received with kindnefs. Occupations of the inha^
bitants on its banks. Leave the canoe at a fall, Pafs over land to
another village. Some account of it. Obtain a view of an arm of the
fa. Lofe our dog. Procure another canoe. Arrive at the arm of the
fea. Circumjlances of it. One of our guides returns home. Co af along
a bay. Some defcription of it. Meet ivith Indians. Onr communic^-
iion with them. Their fufpicious conduct towards us. Pafs onwards.
Determine the latitude and lonsritude. Return to the river. Dangerous
encounter with the Indians. Proceed on our journey.

;'7

■■lit

m
ii
li

i,«rt

:93«

ily.

T one in ihe afternoon we renewed our voyage in a large canoe ^Q7^
with four of the natives. We found the river almoll one continued
rapid, and in half an hour we came to an houfe, where, however, we
did not land, though invited by the inhabitants. In about an hour we
arrived at two houfes, where wc were, in fome degree, obliged to go on
Hiore, as we were informed that the owner of them was a perfon of
confideration. He indeed received and regaled n.s in the fame manner

X X as

338

»793'

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

as at the laft village ; and to increafe his confequence, he produced many
European articles, and amongft them were at lead forty pounds weight
of old copper Hills. We made our ftay as fliort as poffible, and our hofl:
embarked with us. In a very fhort time we were carried by the rapidity
of the current to another houfe of very large dimenfions, which was
partitioned into different apartments, and whofe doors were on the fide.
The inhabitants received us with great kindnefs ; but inftead of fifh,
they placed a long, clean, and well made trough before us full of berries.
In addition to ihofe which we had already feen, there were fome
black, that were larger than the huckle berry, and of a richer flavour;
and others while, which refembled the blackberry in every thing but
colour. Here we faw a woman with two pieces of copper in her under
lip, as defcribed Vy Captain Cook. I continued my ufual pra£lice of
making thefe people prcfcnts in return for ^heir friendly reception and
entertainment. • '

f ,■'

iii'. • ^Vi1.

The navigation of the river now became more difficult, from the nu-
merous channels into winch it was divided, without any fenfible dimi-
nution in the velocity of its current. We Ibon reached another houfe
of the common fize, where we were well received ; but whether our
guides liad infurnu'd them that we were not in want of any thing, or
that they were icfi,:cnt in inclination, or perhaps the means, of being
hofpitable to l.s, '''cy <h<: not offer us any refrefhment. They were in a
ilate of bufy puMaraii''). Some of the women were employed in beat-
ingand preparing the 'anc> rind of the cedar bark, to which they gave
the appearance of flux. Others were fpinning with a diflaffr.nd I'pindle.
One of ihcf was wca\ i,ng a robe of it, intermixed with ftripcs of the fea-

ottcr

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. '

dlter fkin, on a frame of" adequate contrivance that was placed againil the
fide of the houfe. The men were hfliing on the river with drag-nets be- ^
tween two canoes. Thefe nets arc forced by poles to the bottom, the
current driving them before it ; by which means the falmon coming up
the river are intercepted, and give notice of their being taken by the
Ilruggles they make in the bag or Ileeve of the net. There are no weirs
in this part of the river, as I luppofe, from the numerous channels into
which it is divided. The machines, therefore, are placed along the
banks, and confcquently thefe people are not fo well fupplied with filh
as the village which has been already defcribed, nor do they appear
to poffefs the fame induflry. The inhabitants of the lafl houfe accom-
panied us in a large canoe. They recommended us to have ours
here, as the next village was but at a fmall didance from us, and the
water mofe rapid than that which we had palled. They informed us
alfo, that We were approaching a cafcade. I direfled them to fhoot it,
and proceeded myfelf to the foot thereof, where I re-imbarked, and we
went on with great velocity, till we came to a fall, where we left our
canoe, and carried our luggage along a road through a wood for foiue
hundred yards, when we came to a village, confifting of fix very large -
houfes, erected on pallifades, rifing twenty-five feet from the ground,
which dilfered in no one circumf lance from thofc already defcribed, but
the height of their elevation. They contained only four men and their
families. The refl of the inhabitants were with us and in the fmall
houfes which we paffed higher up the river."* Thcli; people do not fcem
to enjoy the abundance oi their neiglibours, as the men who returned

339

J"iy.
— y—

I'MI

1 1

■fo'

• Mr. J'.|in<lnr.p romc fo tlicl'c lioulcs the full d.iy of the preceding inonih.

from

iiti

y ,.

34°

July-

JOURNAL OF A VO\ AGE THROUGH THE

from fi filing had no more than five falmon ; they refufed to fell one of
them, but gave me one roafled of a very indifferent kind. In the
houfes there were feveral chefts or boxes containing different articles
that belonged to the people whom we had lately paffed. If I were to
judge by the heaps of filth beneath thefe buildings, they rauft have been
ereP'^'l at a more diflant period than any which we had paffed. From
thefe houfes I could perceive the termir^ation of the river, and its dif-
charge into a narrow arm of the fea.

As it was now half pafl fix in the evening, and the weather cloudy, I
determined to remain here for the night, and for that purpofe we pof-
feffed ourfelves of one of the unoccupied houfes. The remains of our
lafl meal, which we brought with us, ferved for our fupper, as we
could not procure a fingle filh from tiie natives. The courfe of the
river is about Wefl, and the diflance from the great village upwards of
thirty-fix miles. There we had loft our dog, a circumftance of no fmall
regret to me» ■. . ^ ■■< - -> - . ■ ,v,jjvvi^/ j.

ii^Jf II

"'a. ''.C-J' ';•■■> ,''i''

Saturday 2o» We rofe at a very early hour this morning, when I propofed to the
Indians to run down our canoe, or procure another at this place. To
both thefe propofals they turned a deaf ear, as they imagined that I
fhould be fatisfied with having come in fight of the fea. Two of them
peremptorily refufed to proceed ; but the other two having confented to
continue with us, we obtained a larger canoe than our former one, and
though ir was in a leaky flate wc were glad to poffefs it.

At about eight we got out of the river, which difcharges itfelf by

various

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

various channels into an arm of the fea. The tide was out, and had
left a large fpace covered with fea-weed. The furrounding hills were
involved in fog. The wind was at Weft, which was a-head of us, and
very ftrong ; the bay appearing to be from one to three miles in breadth.
As we advanced along the land we faw a great number of fea-otters. We
fired feveral (hots at them, but without any fuccefs from the rapidity
with which they plunge under the water. We alfo faw many fmall por-
poifes or divers. The white-headed eagle, which is common in the in-
terior parts ; fome fmall gulls, a dark bird which is inferior in fize to the
gull, and a few fmall ducks, were all the birds which prefented them-
felves to our view, ' ■ ,; • ' ^• ' • - ■ Z'

At two in the afternoon the fwell was fo high, and the wind, which
was againft us, fo boifterous, that we could not proceed with our leaky
veflel, we therefore landed in a fmall cove on the right fide of the bay.
Oppofite to us appeared another fmall bay, in the mouth of which is an
ifland, and where, according to the information of the Indians, a river
difcharges itfelf that abounds in falmon.

Our young Indians now difcovered a very evident difpofition to leave
us ; and, in the evening, one of them made his efcape. Mr. Mackay,
however, with the other, purfued and brought him back ; but as it was
by no means neceffary to detain him, particularly as provifions did not
abound with us, I gave him a fmall portion, with a pair of Ihoes, which
were neceffary for his journey, and a filk handkerchief, telling him at the
fame time, that he might go and inform his friends, that wc Ihould alfo

rciura

341

»793.

July-

<^i

:i^i'iM

342

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH TH£

return in three nights. He accordingly left us, and his companion, the
young chief, went with him.

>'»K''it

:(..,«,

i>':

I'lL'-tlH.';

f>,i

t!iV4: ■

i » 1 <?j

When 've landed, the tide was going out, and at a quarter pall four it
was ebb, the water having fallen in that fhort period eleven feet and
an half. Since we left the river, not a quarter of an hour had pafl'ed in
which we did not fee porpoifes and fea-otters. Soon after ten it was
high water, which rendered it neceffary that our baggage {hould be (hifted
feveral times, though not till Ibme of the things had been wetted. ''''^'

i;*lS ''II'

We were now reduced to the necelTity of looking out for frelh water,
with which we were plentifully fupplied by the rills that ran down from
the mountains. , - ■ • »

unjin ;!:,:? i'\^r.y "^^ ^i,,\f yj,;;-;;

■:r .ih» ..i'Mii^s,; i,

^ V.

When it was dark the young chief retuhied to us, bear'ing a large
po'-cupine on his back. He firft cut the animal open, and having dif-
encumbered it of the entrails, threw them into the fea ; he then finged
its fkin, and boiled it in feparate pieces, as our kettle was not fufficiently
capacious to contain the whole : nor did he go to reft, till, with the
afliilancc of two of my people who happened to be awake, every morfel

of it was devoured.

.'i'Jv :'':4' {''*■!« b 'V;.»l.

•O '-iVl •!; v/ ? v^^!vvi.)

I had flattered myfelf with the hope of getting a dlftance of the moart
and ftars, but the cloudy weather continually difappointed me, and I
began to fear that I fliould fail in this important obje£l ; particularly as
our provifions were at a very low ebb, and we had, as yet, no r^afon to

expeft

■:i.im

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

expeft any aflTiIlance from the natives. Our flock was, at this time, re-
duced to twenty pounds weight of pemmican, fifteen pounds of rice,
and fix pounds of flour, among ten half-ftarved men, in a leaky veffel,
and on a barbarous coafl. Our courfe from the river was about Weft-
South- Wefl, diftance ten miles.

343

»793-

•I <i:rn

'Orio*

At forty minutes pafl four this morning it was low water, which made Sunday 21.
fifteen feet perpendicular height below the high-water mark of laft night.
Mr. Mackay colle6led a quantity of fmall mufcles which we boiled.
Our people did not partake of this regale, as they arc wholly unac-
quainted with fea fhell-fifh. Our young chief being mifTmg, we imagined
that he had taken his flight, but, as we were preparing to depart, he for-
tunately made his appearance from the woods, where he had been to
take his reft after his feaft of laft night. At fix we were upon the water,
when we cleared the fmall bay, which we named Porcupine Cove, and
fteered Weft-South-Weft for feven miles, we then opened a channel
about two miles and an half wide at South-South-Weft, and had a view
often or twelve miles into it. As I could not afcertain the diftance from
the open fca, and being uncertain whether we were in a bay or among
inlets and channels of iflands, 1 confined my fearch to a proper place
for taking an obfervation. We fteered, therefore, along the land on the
left, Weft-North- Weft a mile and an half; then North- Weft one fourth
of a mile, and North three miles to an ifland ; the land continuing to
run North-North- Weft, then along the ifland, South-South- Weft half a
mile. Weft a mile and an half, and from thence direQly acrofs to the
land on the left, (where I had an altitude,) South- Well three miles.*

^■«

I ii

;k iiii

• The Cipc or Point Menzics of \'ancoiiver.

From

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

^ Ui 12.2
L° 12.0

mi <

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WIST MAIN STHIT

WIUTiJI.N.Y. MSIO

{71*)t7a-4S03

^J^
^

344

»793-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

From this pofition a channel, of which the ifland we left appeared to
make a cheek, bears North by Eaft.

Under the land we met with three canoes, with fifteen men in them,
and laden with their moveables, as if proceeding to a new fituation, or
returning to a former one. They manifefted no kind of miftrufl; or fear
of us, but entered into converfation with our young man, as I fuppofed, to
obtain fome information concerning us. It did not appear that they were
the fame people as thofe we had lately feen, as they fpoke the lan-
guage of our young chief, with a different accent. They then examined
every thing we had in our canoe, with an air of indifference and dif-
dain. One of them in particular made me underftand, with an air of
infolence, that a large canoe had lately been in this bay, with people
in her like me, and that one of them, whom he called Macubah, had fired
on him and his friends, and that Benfins had ftruck him on the back,
with the flat part of his fword. He alfo mentioned another name, the
articulation of which I could not determine. At the fame time he illuf-
trated thefe circumflances by the afTiflance of my gun and fword and I
do not doubt but he well dcl'erved the treatment which he defcribcd.
lie alfo produced feveral European articles, which could not have been
long in his poffeffion. From his conduft and appearance, I wiflied very
much to be rid of him, and flattered myfclf that he would profe-
cute his voyage, which appeared to be in an oppofitc direftion to our
courfe. However, when I prepared to part from them, they turned
their canoes about, and perfuaded my young man to leave mc, which I
rould not prevent, ■ ' »• ' '

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

315

We coafted along the land* at about Weft-South-Weft for fix miles,
and met a canoe with two boys in it, who were difpatched to ftimmon "
the people on that part of the coaft to join them. The troublefome
fellow now forced himfelf into my canoe, and pointed out a narrow
channel on the oppofite ftiore, that led to his village, and requefted us
to fteer towards it, which I accordingly ordered. His importunities
now became very irkfome, and he wanted to fee every thing we had,
particularly my inftruments, concerning which he muft have received
information from my young man. He aflced for my hat, my handker-
chief, and, in ftiort, e^•ery thing that he faw about me. At the fame
time he frequently repeated the unplcafant intelligence that he had been
fhot at by people of my colour. At fome diftance from the land a chan-
nel opened to us, at South- Weft by Weft, and pc'.niing that way, he
made me underftand that Macubah came there with his large canoe.
When we were in mid-channel, I perceived fome flieds, or the remains
of old buildings, on the ftiorc ; and as, from that circumftance, I thought
it probable that lomc Europeans might have been there, I direfled my
ftecrfman to make for that fpot. The traverfe is upwards of three
miles North- Weft.

"\r\

i « J' -m

We landed, and found the ruins of a village, in a fituation calculated

for defence. The place itfelf was over grown with weeds, and in the
centre of the houfes there was a temple, of the fame form and conftruc-
tion as that which I defcribed at the large village. We were foon fol-
lowed by ten canoes^ each of which contained from three to fix men. They

July-

■~v —

it'ilil

^^'ili

i«t ';

., ,.,, f* Nwncd by Vancouver Klng'^ Ifland.

informed

346

1793.

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

informed us that we were expelled at the village, where we (hould fee
many of them. From their general deportment I was very apprehen-
fivc that fome hoftile defign was meditated againft us, and for the firft
time I acknowledged my apprehenfions to my people. I accordingly dc-
fired them to be very much upon their guard, and to be prepared if any
violence was offered to defend themfelves to the lad. i

We had no fooner landed, than we took pofleflion of a rock, where
there was not fpace for more than twice our number, and which ad-
mitted of our defending ourfelves with advantage, in cafe we (hould be
attacked. The people in the three firft canoes, were the moft trouble-
fome, but, after doing their utmoft to irritate us, they went away. They
were, however, no fooner gone, than an hat, an handkerchief, and feve-
ral other articles, were miffing. The reft of our vifitors continued their
preifing invitations to accompany them to their village, but finding our
refolution to decline them was not to be ftiaken, they, about fun-fet re-
lieved us from all further importunities, by their departure.

Another canoe, however, foon arrived, with feven ftout, well-looking
men. They brought a box, which contained a very fine fea-otter (kin,
and a goat (kin, that was beautifully white. For the former they de-
manded my hanger, which, as may well be fuppofed, could not be I'pared
in our prefent fituation, and they a6lually refufed to take a yard and an
half of common broad cloth, with fome other articles, for the fkin, which
proves the unreflefling improvidence of our European traders. The
goat-lkin was To bulky that I did not offer ^o purchafe it. Thefe men
alfo told me that Macubah had been there, and left his ftiip behind a
i ' point

North-west continent of America.

347

point of land in the channel, South- Weft from us; from whence he had '799-
come to their village in boats, which thefe people reprefented by imitat- * " " »■ -^
ing our manner of rowing. When I offered them what they did not
choofe to accept for the otter-lkin, they fhook their heads, and very dif-
tindlly anfwered " No, no." And to mark their refufal of any thing
we aflced from them, they emphatically employed the fame Britifli mo-
nofyllable. In one of the canoes which had left us, there was a feal,
that I wifhed topurchafe, but could not perfuade the natives to part with
it. They had alfo a fi(h, which I now faw for the firft time. It was
about eighteen inches in length, of the fhape and appearance of a trout,
with ftrong, fharp teeth. We faw great numbers of the animals which
we had taken for fea otters, but I was now difpofed to think that a great
part of them, at leaft, muft have been feals. ' '

The natives having left uS, we made a fire to warm ourfelves, and as
for fupper, there was but little of that, for our whole daily allowance
did not amount to what was fufficient for a fingle meal. The weather
was clear throughout the day, which was fucceeded by a fine moon-light
night. I dircfted the people to keep watch by two in turn, and laid my-
lelf down in my cloak.

This morning the weather was clear and pleafant; nor had any thing Monday a..
occurred to dillurb us throughout the night. One folitary Indian, in-
deed, came to us with about half a pound of boiled feal's flefh, and the
head of a linail falmon, for which he aflced an handkerchief, but after-
wards accepted a few beads. As this man came alone, I concluded that
no general plan had been formed among the natives to annoy us, but
this opinion did not altogether calm the apprchcnlions of my people.

Y y 2 ' Soon

r f'

348

»793«

Iwlv.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

Soon after eight in the morning, I took five altitudes for time, and the
mean of them was 36'' 48' at fix in the afternoon, 58. 34. time, by the
watch, which makes the achrometer flow apparent time i"" 21" 44*.

Two canoes now arrived from the fame quarter as the reft, with feve-
ral men, and our young Indian along with them. They brought a very
few fmall fea-otter fkins, out of feafon, with fome pieces of raw feal's
flefli. The former were of no value, but hunger compelled fome of my
people to take the latter, at an extravagant price. Mr. Mackay lighted a
bit of touch wood with a burning- glafs, in the cover of his tobacco-box,
which fo furprifed the natives, that they exchanged the beft of their otler
(kins for it. The young man was now very anxious to perfuade our people
to depart, as the natives, he faid, were as numerous as mufquitoes, and of
very malignant charafter. This information produced fome very ear-
ned remonftrances to me to hallen our departure, but as I was determined
not to leave this place, except I was abfolutely compelled to it, till I had
afcertained its Gtuation, thefe folicitations were not repeated.

While I was taking a meridian, two canoes, of a larger fize, and well
manned, appeared from the main South-Weft channel. They feemed
to be the fore-runners of others, who were coming to co-operate with the
people of the village, in confeqMcnce of the meffage fent by the two boys,
which has been already mennoned; and our young Indian, who under-
ftood them, renewed hiser aties for our departure, as they would foon
come to ftioot their arrows, and hurl their fpears at us. In relating our
danger, his agitation was fo violent that he foamed at the mouth.
Though I was not altogether free from apprehcnfions on the occafion, it

'^1'

•was

,^l ]

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

was nect iTary for me to difguife them, as my people were panic flruck,
and fbme of them aflced if it was my determination to remain there to be
facrificed? My reply was the fame as their former importunities had
received, that! would not ftir till I had accomplifhed my objeft; at the
fame time, to humour their fears, I confented that they (hould put every
thing into the canoe, that we might be in a ftate of preparation to de-
part. The two canoes now approached the (hore, and in a fliort time five
men, with their families, landed very quietly from them. My inftruments
being expofed, they examined them with much apparent admiration and
aftonifhment. My altitude, by an artificial horizon, gave 52° 21* 33";
that by the natural horizon was 52° 20* 48" North latitude.*

" Thefe Indians were of a different tribe from thofe which I had already
feen, as our guide did not underfland their language. I now mixed up
fome vermilion in melted greafe, and infcribed, in large chara6lers, on
the South-Eaft face of the rock on which we had flept laft night, this
brief memorial — ' Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the
iwenty-fecond of July, one thoufand feven hundred and ninety-three."

349

»793-

July.

,!■!

' As I thouglit that we were too near the village, I confented to leave
this place, and accordingly proceeded North-Eaft three miles, when we
landed on a point, in a fmall cove, where we fhould not be readily feen,
and could not be attacked except in our front.

Among other articles that had been flolen from us, at our lad Hation,

:. ., « • This I found to bo the cheek of Vancouver's Cafcade Canal.

*
^^ r

was

, L

35^

»793-
Julv.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

was a founding-line, which I intended to have employed in this bay,
though I {hould not probably have found the bottom, at any diflance
from the fhore, as the appearance both of the water and land indicated
a great depth. The latter difplayed a folid rock, riOng, as it appeared
to me, from three to ieven hundred feet above high water mark. Where
any foil was fcattered about, there were cedars, fpruce-firs, white birch,
and other trees of large growth. From its precipices iffued dreams of
fine water, as cold as ice.

The two canoes which we had left at our lall ftation, followed us
hither, and when they were preparing to depart, our young chief em-
barked with them. I was determined, however, to prevent his efcape,
ard compelled him, by adual force, to come on fhore, for I thought it
it'Vivh better to incur his difpleafure, than to fuffer him to expofe himfelf
lo any untoward accident among ftrangers, or to return to his father be-
fore us. The men in the canoe made figns for him to go over the hill,
and that they would take him on board at the other fide of it. As I
was neceffarily engaged in other matters, I defired my people to take
care that he (hould not run away ; but they peremptorily refufed to be
employed in keeping him againft his will. I was, therefore, reduced to
the neceffity of watching him myfelf.

I took five altitudes, and the mean of them was 29. 23. 48.
at 3. 5,. 53. in the afternoon, by the watch, which makes it flow apparent
time 1"* 22" 38'

In the forenoon it was , 1 2144

^ Mean of both

Difference nine hours going of the timepiece flow

.»_, ,

^nnnMj

11
8

1 22 19

I obfcrved

h ^

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

I obFerved an emerfton of Jupiter's third fatellite, which gave
8° 32' 21" difference of longitude. I then obferved an emerfion of Jupi-
ter's firll fatelhte, which gave 8. 31. 48. The mean of thefe obfervations
is 8" 32' 2" which is equal to 128. 2. Weft of Greenwich.

351

>793-

July.

I had now determined my fituation, which is the moft fortunate cir-
cumftance of my long, painful, and perilous journey, as a few cloudy
days would have prevented me from afcertaining the final longitude of it.*

At twelve it was high water, but the :ide did not come within a Coot
and an half of the high water mark of laft night. As foon as I had com-
pleted my obfervations, we left this place: it was then ten o'clock in the
afternoon. We returned the fame way that we came, and though the
tide was running out very ftrong, by keeping clofc in with the rocks, we
proceeded at a confiderable rate, as my people were very anxious to get
out of the reach of the inhabitants of this coaft. ' lijB > ..'. '^i ui{ t: •

Sl£^_«^ ''•'

During our courfe we faw feveral fires on the land to the Southward, TucWay 23.
and after the day dawned, their fmokes were vifible. At half pall; four
this morning we arrived at our encampment of the night of the 2tft,
which had been namv*d Porcupine Cove. The tide was out, and con-
fiderably lower than we found it when we were here before ; the high-

ti m

* Mr. Meafcs wu uncloubtcdl) wrong in the idea, To pofitively iiifided on by him in hit voyitge,
thai there was a North-Weft p^ffage to the Southward of lixty-nine degrees and an h.tif <T latiiude, ai
I flatter myfelf has been proved by my former voyage. Nor can I refrain from cxprofling my lurprife
at \\h afTertion, that there was an inland lea or archipelago of great extent between the ilhinds uf Nootka
and the main, about the latitude where I was at this time. Indeed I hive been informed that
Captain Grey, who commanded an American vclTel, .ind on whole authority he ventured this opinion,
denies that he had given Mr. Me,- cs any fuch information, liclidis, llu toiiiury is indubitably
proved by Captain Vancouvcr'i lurvcy, from which no ii|)pcal can be made.

water

352

»793-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

water mark being above the place where we had made our fire. This
fluctuation mufl. be occafioned by the a6iion of the wind upon the water,
in thofe narrow channels. ^j^,

As we continued onwards, towards the river, we faw a canoe, well
manned, which at firft made from us with great expedition, but after-
wards waited, as if to reconnoitre us ; however, it kept out of our way,
and allowed us to pafs. The tide being much lower than when we were
here before, we were under the neceflity of landing a mile below the
village. We obferved that flakes were fixed in the ground along the
bay, and in fome places machines were faflened to them, as I afterwards
learned, to intercept the ftals and otters. Thefe wofks are very exten-
five, and mufl: have been erefted with no common labour. The only
bird we faw to-day was the white-headed eagle.* -..w *Ja*,

Our guide direfled us to draw the canoe out of the reach of the tide
and to leave it. He would not wait, however, till this operation was
performed, and I did not wifli to let him go alone. I therefore followed
him through a bad road encumbered with underwood. When we had
quitted the wood, and were in fight of the houfes, the young man being
about fifteen or twenty paces before me, I was furprifed to iee two men
running down towards me from one of the houfes, with daggers in their
hands and fury in their afpe6l. From their hoftile appearance, I could
not doubt of their purpofe. I therefore flopped fiiort, threw down my
cloak, and put myfelf in a pollure of defence, with my gun prefented

:n ifio n«!

This bay was now named Mackenzie's Outlet.

It*, .ij-i

I ■ .. V'-

towards

'i^^% -f

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

353

towards them. Fortunately for me, they knew the effeft of fire-arms,
and indantly dropped their daggers, which were fattened by a firing to
their wrifts, and had before been held in a menacing attitude. I let my
gun alfo fall into my left hand, and drew my hanger. Several others
foon joined them, who were armed in the fame manner ; and among
them I recognifed the man whom 1 have already mentioned as being fo
troublefome to us, and who now repeated the names of Macubah and
Benzins, fignifying at the fame time by his a6lion, as on a former oc-
cafion, that he had been fhot at by them. Until I faw him my mind
was undiflurbed ; but the moment he appeared, conceiving that he was
the caufeof my prefent perilous fituatioi.^ my refentment predominated,
and, if he had come within my reach, I verily believe, that I fhould
have terminated his infolence for ever.

- The refl now approached io near, that one of he^ contrived to
get behind me, and grafped me in bis arms. I foon igaged myfeif

from him ; and, that he did not avail himfelf of the op^^ lunity which
he had of plunging his dagger into me, I cannot conjefture. They cer-
tainly might have overpowered me, and though I fhould probably have
killed one or two of them, I mufl have fallen at laft. w =.,,- -..j

One of my people now came out of the wood. On his appearance
they inflantly took to flight, and wuh the utmofl fpeed fought fhelter
in the houfes from whence they had ilTued. It was, however, upwards
of ten minutes before all my people joined me ; and as they came one
after the other, ihefe people might have fuccefhvely difpatchcd every

»793-

July-

.A\

one

354

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

one of us. If they had killed me, in the firft inflance, this confequence
would certainly have followed, and not one of us would have returned
home to tell the horrid fate of his companions.
ti

After having dated the danger T had encountered, I told my people
that I was determined to make thefe natives feel the impropriety of their
condu6i; toward us, and compel them to return my hat and cloak which
they had taken in the fcuffle, as well as the articles previoufly purloined
from us ; for mofl of the men who were in the three canoes that we firft
law, were now in the village. I therefore told my men to prime their
pieces afrefh, and prepare themfelves for an aftive ufe of them, if the
occafion fhould require it.

We now drew up before the houfe, and made figns for Ibme one to
come down to us. At length our young chief appeared, and told us that
the men belonging to the canoes had not only informed his friends, that
we had treated him very ill, but that we had kiHed four of their com-
panions whom we had met in the bay. When I had explained to them
as well as it was in my power, the falfehood of fuch a llory, I infilied on
the reftoration of every thing that had been taken from us, as well as a
neceflary fupply of fifh, as the conditions of my departure; accordingly
the things were reftored, and a few dried fifh along with them.. A re-
conciliation now took place, but our guide or young chief was fo much
terrified that he would remain no longer with us, and requefted us to-
follow with his father's canoe, or mifchief would follow. 1 determined,
however, before my departure, to take an oblervation, and at noon got

. V a meridian

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

355

a meridian altitude, making this place, which I named Rafcals Village, »7?3-

July.

52. 23. 43. North latitude. * — -v —

On my Informing the natives that we wanted fomething more to eat,
they brought us two falmons ; and when we lignified that we had no
poles to fet the canoe againft the current, they were furniChed with equal
alacrity, fo anxious were they for our departure. I paid, however, for
every thing which we had received, and did not forget the loan of the

canoe.

■jt

i>i\i iVS

H^'i

\fy

ZZ2

CHAP.

H, .

:jM

'*i

35^

■mi ^^2tiin /

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH 1 HE

on 0iif[ nv; }£r(i i<

CHAPTER XII.

Return up the river. Slov) progrefs of the canoe, from the Jlrength of the
^current. The hojtile party of the natives precede us. Impetuous con-
'^ duEl of my people. Continue our very tedious voyage. Come to fome
houfes; received with great kindnefs. Ari ive at the principal^ or Salmon
Village. Our prefent reception very different from that we experienced
on our former vijit. Continue our journey. Circumflances of it. Find,
* our dog. Arrive at the Upper, or Friendly Village. Meet with a very
kind reception. Some further account of the manners and cu/loms of its
inhabitants. Brief vocabulary of their language.

'79a'

July.

— V-

X HE current of the river was fo urong, that I mould have complied
with the wifhes of my people, and gone by land, but one of my Indians
was fo weak, that it was impoifiblc for him to perform the journey. He
had been ill fome time; and, indeed, we had been all of us more or lefs
afflifled with colds on the fca coaft. Four of the people therefore let off
witJi the canoe, and it employed them an hour to get half a mile. In the
mean time the native, who has been already mentioned as having treated
us with fomuch infolence, and four of his companions, went up the river
in a canoe, which they had above the rapid, with as many boxes as men

NORTH-WEST OONTINtNT OF AMERICA.

357

in her. This circumftance was the caufe of frefli alarm, as it was gcnC"
rally concluded that they would produce the fame mifchief and danger
in the villages above, as they had in that below. Nor was it forgotten
that the young chief had left us in a manner which would not be inter-
preted in our favour by his father and friends.

1793-

I I

At length the canoe arrived, and the people declared in the mod un-
referved terms, that they would proceed no further in her; but when
they were made acquainted with the circumftances which have juU been
defcribcd, their violence increafed, and the greater part of the men an-
nounced their determination to attempt the mountains, and endeavour,
by paflTmg over them, to gain the road by which we came to the firft
village. So refolved were they to purfue this plan, that they threw
every thing which they had into the river, except their blankets. I
was all tliis time fitting patiently on a ftone, and indulging the hope
that, when their frantic terror had fubfided, their returning reafon
would have difpofed them to perceive the raflinefs of their pro-
je6t; but vthcn I obfcrved that they perfifled in it, I no longer re-
mained a filent liftener to their paffionate declarations, but proceeded
to employ fuch arguments as I trulted would turn them from their
fenielefs and imprafiicable purpofe. Alter reproving my young Indian
in very fcvcre terms, for encouraging the rell to follow their mad de-
fign of palling the mountains, 1 addrelfed mylelf generally to them,
dating the difficulty of afccnding the mountains, the eternal fnows with
which they were covered, our fmall ftock of provifions, which two days
would exhaull, and the confequent probability that we (hould pcrifh with
cold and hunger. I urged the folly of being afie^icd by the alarm of
.McA' • danger

! IV

35^

'793-
July.

y—

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

danger which might not exift, and if it did, I encouraged them with the
means we poflelTed of furmounting it. Nor did I forget to urge the in-
humanity and injulUce of leaving the poor fick Indian to languifh and
die. I alfo added, that as my particular obje6l had been accomplifhed, I
had now no other but our common fafety ; that the fole wifli of my
heart was to employ the beft means in my power, and to purfue the beft
method which my underftanding could fuggeft, to fecure them and my-
ftlf from every danger that might impede our return. . -j^ ,;

My {Icerfman, who had been w'ith mc for five years in that capacity,
inllanily replied that he was ready to follow me wherever I fliould go, but
that he would never again enter that canoe, as he had folemnly fworn he
would not, while he was in the rapid. His example was followed by
all the rf:!!:, except two, who embarked with Mr. Mackay,* myfelf, and
the lick Indian. The current, however, was fo flrong, that we dragged
up the greatcit part of the way, by the branches of trees. Our progrefs,
as may be imagined, was very tedious, and attended with uncommon
labour ; the party who went by land being continually obliged to wait
for us. Mr. Mackay's gun was carried out of the canoe and loit, at a time
when we ajipcared to Hand in very great need of it, as two canoes, with
fixteen or eighteen men, were coming down the dream; and the appre-
hcnfions which they occafioned did not fubfide till they (hot by us with
great rapidity. ,^^

At length we came in fight of the lioufe, when wc faw our young Indian

It is ImK common judicc to liiiii, Id mention m tliis pUce that I had every rcafon to be

*• • ^ .,...,.. • _ . • ,_, -

wltli

lHti.slu;il with his concUid.

NORTH AVEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

359

with fix others, in a canoe coming to meet us. This was a veryien- *793«
couraging circumftance, as it fatisfied us that the natives who had pre- ' vf~"
ceded, and whofe malignant defigns we had every reafon to fufpeft,'
had r\<j*. been able to prejudice the people againfl us. We, therefore,
landed at the houfe, where we were received in a friendJy manner, and
having procured fome fifh, we proceeded on our journey. h> ■>ii,. J-rrri
ad y.«m eitffji "tviU j?i'.j yiivii i>ai5 aitert ?fi' hs rurv/ ito Dsriitjq hoc ,n ntm
It was almofl dark when we arrived at the next houfe, and the firft
perfons who prefented themfelves to our obfervation were the turbulent
Indian and his four companions. They were not very agreeable objefts ;
but we were never thelefs well received by the inhabitants, who prelented
us with fifh and berries. The Indians who had caufed us fo much
alarm, we now difcovered to be inhabitants of the illands, and traders in
various articles, fuch as cedar-bark, prepared to be wove into mats, fifh-
fpawn, copper, iron, and beads, the latter of which they get on their own
coaft. For thefe they receive in exchange roafled falmon, hcmlock-bark
cakes, and the other kind made of falmon roes, forrel, and bitter berries.
Having procured as much fifh as would ferve us for our fupper, and the
meals of the next day, all my people went to reft except one, with whom
I kept the firfl watch. , ; ^i, ,',„ ■ ,

After twelve laft night, I called up Mr. Mackay, and oneof the men, Wcclncf. 24
to relieve us, but as a general tranquillity appeared to prevail in the
place, 1 recommended them to return to their reft. I was the firfl awake
the morning, and lent Mr. Mackay to fee if our canoe remained where
we left it; but he returned to inform me that the Illanders had loaded it
w^U ij^eiv arliclps pi ^ti^Iliv* .ftfifJ ;W^i: ready tg depart. On this intcl-

>•' ml

I I

3^0

»793«

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

ligence I hurried to the water fide, and fcizing the canoe by the ftem, I
ihould certainly have overfet it, and turned the three men that were in it,
vith all their merchandife, into the river, had not one of the people of
the houfe, who had been very kind to us, informed me that this was their
own canoe, and that my guide had gone off with ours. At the fame mo-
ment the other two Indians who belonged to the party, jumped nimbly
into it, and pufhed off with all the hafte and hurry that their fears may be
fuppofed to diftate.

lii'.

; We how found ourfclves once more witi out a guide or a canoe. We
were, however, fo fortunate as to engage, without much difficulty, two
of thefe people to accompany us ; as, from the ftrength of the current,
it would not have been poffible for us to have proceeded by water with-
out their afliftance. As the houfe was upon an ifland, we ferried over
the pedcftrian party to the main bank of the river, and continued our
courfe till our condu6lor5 came to their fifhing ground, when they pro-
pofed to land us, and our fmall portion of baggage; but as our com-
panions were on the oppofite fhore, we could not acquiefce, and after
fome time perfuaded them to proceed further with us. Soon after we
met the chief, who had regaled us in our voyage down the river. He
was feining between two canoes, and had taken a confiderable quantity
of falmon. He took us on board with him, and proceeded upwards with
great expedition. Thefe people are furprifingly fkilful anH aflive in
fetting againft a flrong current. In the rougheft part they almoft filled
the canoe with water, by way of a fportive alarm to us.

We landed at the houfe of the chief, and he immediately placed a fifh

before

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

bpFore me. Our people now appeared on the oppofite bank, when a
canoe was fent for them. As foon as they had made their meal of fifli,
they proceeded on their route, and we followed them, the chief and one
of the natives having undertaken to condu6l us»

3^1

»793'

July.

At five in the afternoon we came to two houles, which we had not feen
in going down. They were upon an ifland, and I was obliged to fend
for the walking party, as our condu6lors, from the latenefs of the hour,^
refuted to proceed any further with us till the next day. One of
our men, being at a fmall diflance before the others, had been attacked
by a female bear, with two cubs, but another of them arrived to
his refcue, and fhot her. Their fears probably prevented them from
killing the two young ones. They brought a part of the meat, but it
was very indifferent. We were informed that our former guide, or
young chief, had pafled this place, at a very early hour of the morning,
on foot,

■ Thefe people take plenty of anothei fifh, befides falmon, which weight
from fifteen to forty pounds. This fifli is broader than the falmon, of a
greyilh colour, and with an hunch on its back ; the flefli is white, but
neither rich nor well flavoured. Its jaw and teeth are like thofe of a>
dog, and the latter are larger and ftronger than any I had ever feen in a
fi(h of equal fize : thofe in front bend inwards, like the claws of a bird of
prey. It delights in fhallow water, and its native name is Dilly.

We received as many fifh and bcprics from thefe peoplb as completely
fatisfied our appetites, The latter excelled any of tiie kind that we
'Jir»v 3 A had.

wmn

^. ^-.

9??

»793.«
July.

bad rp^. I favr. aJfo, three kinds of goofeberries, which, as we pafled
■* tJifQugh ^e wopcbt, \^e found in great abundance.

Thurfday 25. I arofc before the fun, and the weather was very fine. The men who
were to accompany us w^ent to vifit their machines, and brought back
plenty of fifli, which they ftrung on a rope, and left them in the river.
We now embarked thirteen in a canoe, and landed my men on the South
hank, « it would h^ve been impracticable to have ftemmed the tide with
fuch a load. The under-woad was fo thick that it was with great diffi-
culty they could pafs through it. At nine we were under the neceffity
of waiting to ferry them over a river from the South, which is not ford-
able. After fome time we came to two deferted houfes, at the foot of a
rapid, beyond which our boatmen abfolutely refufed to conuuft us by
water. Here was a road which led oppofite to the village. We had,
however, the curlofity to vifit the houfes, which were ere8:ed upon
pofts; and wc fuffered very leverely for the indulgence of it; for the
floors were covered with fleas, and we were immediately in the fame
condition, for which we had no remedy but +0 take to the water.
There was not a fpot roun4 the houfes, free from grafs, that was not
alive, as it were, with this vermip. 4.

Our guides propqfed to con(|u6l us on our way, and we followed them,
on a well-beaten track. They, however, went fo fafl:, that we could not
all of us keep up withr them, particularly our fick Indian, whofe fituation
was very embarraffing to us, and at length they contrived to efcape. I
very much wifhed for thcfe men to haye accompanied us to the village,
in ord(sr to dq away any ill imnreOions which might have arifen 'Vom the
. n . young

bUil

^.J -,

NORTH. WEST CONtmEMt Of" AMfiilCAi

young chiefs report to his father, which W6 W6re hatutally ltd io cX-
pe£l would not be in our favour. '

This roadf condu6lecl us thrbugfi the ntieft wood of cedar Irees tJiat i
had ever feen. I meafured feveral of them that were twenty-four feet
in the girth, and of a proportionate height. The alder trees are alfo f
an uncommon fize; feveral of them were feven feet and an half in circum-
ference, and rofe to forty feet without a branch; but my men declared
that they had, in their progrefs, feen much larger of both kinds. The
other wood was hemlock, white birch, two fpecies of fpruce-firs, wil-
lows, &c. Many of the large cedars appeared to have been examined,
as I fuppofe by the natives, for the purpofe of making canoes, but finding"
them hollow at heari, thev were fufFered to Hand. There was but little
underwood, and the foil was a black rich mould, which would well re-
ward the trouble of cultivation. From the remains of bones on certain
fjpots, it is probable that the natives may have occafionally burned theiir
dead in this wood;

V<)3'

.» .»■

As it was unceirtain what oiir reception might be at the village, I exat-
mined every man's arms and ammunition, and gave Mr. Mackay, who>
had unfortunately loft his gun, one of my piltols. Our late conduftors
had informed us that the man whom we left in a dying ftate, and tO'
whom I had adminu^ered fome Turlington's balfam, was dead; and it
Was by no means improbable that I might be fufpe£led of haftening

his end.

■ H ' '

At one in the afternoon we came to the bank of the rivcri wKich" wai'

3 A 2 oppofite

fds*.

3^4

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE .

oppofite to the village, which appeared to be in a ftate of perfefl tran-
quillity. Several of the natives were fifhing above and below the weir,
and they very readily took us over in their canoes. The people now
hurried down to the water fide, but I perceived none of the chiefs family
among them. They made figns to me to go to his houfe ; I fignified to
them not to crowd about us, and indeed drew a Ihie, beyond which I
made them underftand they mufl; not pafs. I now direfled Mr. Mackay,
and the men to remain tlirre, with their arms in readinefs, and to keep
the natives at a diflance, as I was determined to go alone to the chief's
houfe ; and if they fhould hear the report of my piltols, they were ordered
to make the beft of their way from thefe people, as it would then be equally
fruitlels and dangerous to attempt the giving me any afTiItance, as it
would be only in the lafl; extremity, and when I was certain of their in-
tention dellroy me, that I fhould difcharge my piftols. My gun I gave
to Mr. Mackay, when, with my loaded piftols in my belt, and a poniard in
my hand, I proceeded to the abode of the chief. 1 had a wood to pafs
in my way thither, which was interfered by various paths, and I took
one that led to the back inftead of the front of the houfe ; and as the
whole had been very much altered fince I was here before, I concluded
that I had lofl my way. But I continued to proceed, and foon met
with the chief's wife, who informed me, that he was at the next houfe.
On my going round it, I perceived that they had thrown open the gable
ends, and added two wings, nearly as long as the body, both of which
were hung round with Calmon as clofe as they could be placed. As
I could difcover none of the men, I fi\t down upon a large flone near
fome women who were fupping on falmon roes and berries. They in-
vited me to partake of their fare^ and I was about to accept their invitation,

when

North-west continent of America.

365

"when Mr. Mackay joined me, as both himfelf and all my party were
alarmed at my being alone. Nor was his alarm lefTened by an old man
whom he met in the wood, and who made ufe of figns to perfuade him
to return. As he came without his gun, I gave him one of my piftols.
When I faw the women continue their employment without paying the
leaft attention to us, I could no imagine that any hoflile defign was pre-
paring againft us. Though the non-appearance of the men awakened
fome degree of fufpicion that I Ihould not be received with the fame
welcome as on my former vilit. At length the chief appeared, and his
fon, who had been our guide, following him : difpleafure was painted
in the old man's countenance, and he held in his hand a bead tobacco
pouch which belonged to Mr, Mackay, and the young chief had pur-
loined from him. When he had approached within three or four yards
of me, he threw it at me with great indignation, and walked away. I
followed him, however, until he had pafFed his fon, whom I took by the
hand, but he did not make any very cordial return to my falutation ;
at the fame time he made figns for me to difcharge my piftol, and give
him my hanger which Mr. Mackay had brought me, but I did not pay
the leaft attention to either of his demands.

*793-

July.

We now joined the chief, who explained to me that he was in a Rate
of deep diftrefs for the lofs of his fon, and made me underftand that he
had cut off his hair and blackened his face on the melancholy occafion.'
He alfo reprefented the alarm which he had fuffered refpefting his fon-
who had accompanied us^; as he apprehended we had killed him, or had
all of us perifhed together. When he had finifhed his narrative, I took
him and his fon by their hands, and requefted them to come with me to

the

ill

ij66

'79.3.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

the place where I had left my people, v/ho were rejo lee us return,

having been in a ftate of great anxiety from our long abfenee. I im-
mediately renmnerated the young chief for his company and affiftance
in our voyage to the fea, as well as his father, for his former atten-
tions. I gave them cloth and knives, and, indeed, a portion of every
thing which now remained to us. The prefents had the defired efFe6l
of reftoring us to their favour ; but thefe people are of fo changeable a
nature, that there is no fecurity with them. I procured three robes and
two otter-fliins, and if I could have given fuch articles in exchange as
they preferred, I ihould probably have obtained more. I now repre-
fented the length of the way which I had to go, and requefted fome filh
to fupport us on our journey, when he defired us to follow him to the
houfe, where mats were immediately arranged and a fifh placed before
each of us. -vir ii-f^ »j ■•;..-■'■■'<■..-'

We were now informed, that our dog, whom we had loft, had been
howling ahaut the village ever fince we left it, and that they had reafon
to believe he left the woods at night to eat the filh he could find about
the houfes. I immediately difpatched Mr. Mackay, and a man, in fearch
of the animal, but they returned without him.

When I manifefted my intention to proceed on my journey, the chief
voluntarily fent for ten roafted falmon, and having attended us with his
Ion, and a great number of his people, to the lait houfe in the village, we
took our leave. It was then ha / pafl: three in the afternoon. '

I direfted Mr. Mackay to take the lead» aad the othei's td follow hirft'

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

3^*7

in Indian files, at a long and fteady pace, as I determined to bring up
the rear. I adopted this meafure from a confufion that was obfervable
among the natives which I did not comprehend. I was not without
my fufpicions that I'ome mifchief was in agitation, and they were in-
creafed from the confufed noife we heard in the village. At the fame
time a confiderable number came running after us ; fome of them making
figns for us to flop, and others rufhing by me. I perceived alfo, that thofe
who followed us were the ftrangers who live among thefe people, and are
kept by them in a llate of awe and fubje6lion; and one of them made
figns to me that we were taking a wrong road. I immediately called
out to Mr. Mackay to flop. This was naturally enough taken for an
alarm, and threw my people into great diforder. When, however, I was
underftood, and we had muftered again, our Indian informed us, that the
noife we heard was occalioned by a debate among the natives, whether
they (hould flop us or not. When, therefore, we had got into the right
road, I made fuch arrangements as might be neceffary for our defence, if
we fhould have an experimental proof that our late and fickle friends were
converted into enemies, , (....^.i;^,,,, --fy. -W/m ::-.w -■ ■ ■:- ■';'::5 r'-''^ '^^ ' ^■

t793-

July.

in:

Our way was through a forefl of flately cedars, beneath a range o^
lofty hills, covered with rocks, and without any view of the river. The
path was well beaten, but rendered incommodious by the large floncs
which lay along it. ; • jvj .,;

yf • fv

.h '.. :

U»i

As we were continuing our route, we all felt the fenfation of having
found a lofl friend at the fight of our dog ; but he appeared, in a great
degree, to have loft his forme'" fagacity. He ran in a wild way back-
wards and forwards ; and though he kept our road, I could not induce

him

•i''r 1

368

"793-

J<'iy-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

him to acknowledge his mailer. Sometimes he feemed difpofed to ap-
proach as if he knew us ; and then, on a fudden, he would turn away,
as if alarmed at our appearance. The poor animal was reduced
almoR to a fkeleton, and we occafionally dropped fomething to fupport
him, and by degrees he recovered his former fagacity.

L.;if it.

jA» • ♦- ' > k* cl'*"^ **''f * • ".'

When the night came on we flopped at a fmall diftance from the river,
but did not venture to make a fire. Every man took his tree, and laid
down in his clothes, and with his arms, beneath the fhade of its branches.
We had removed to a (hort diftance from the path ; no centinel was now
appointed, and every one was left to watch for his own fafety.

Friday 26. After a very reftlefs, though undifturbed night, we fet forward as foon
as day appeared, and walked on vith all poffible expedition, till we got
to the upper, which we now called Friendly Village, and was the firfli
we vifited on our outward journey, ..•-•: ^^.7'.'- > . . -i . , .-

i,;!M'

It was eight in the morning of a very fine day when we arrived, and
found a very material alteration in the place fince we left it. Five ad-
ditional houfes had been ereded and were filled with fal'mon : the in-
creafe of inhabitants was in the fame proportion. We were received
with great kindnefs, and a raeflenger was difpatched to inform the chief,
whofe name was Soocomlick, and who was then at his fifhing-weir, of our
arrival. He immediately returned to the village to confirm the cordial re-
ception of his people; and having conduced us to his houfe, entertained
us with the moft refpeftful hofpitality. In ftiort, he behaved to us with
fo much attention and kindnefs, that I did not withhold any thing in my
■■■-'- ^ J , -. . - i „ . powei

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

power to give, which might afford him fatisfaflion. I prefented him with
two yards of blue cloth, an axe, knives, and various other articles. He
gave me in return a large fliell which refembled the under (hell of
a Guernfey oyfter, but I'omewhat larger. Where they procure them I
could not difcover, but they cut and polifh them for bracelets, ear-rings,
and other perfonal ornaments. He regretted that he had no fea-otter
fkins to give me, but engaged to provide abundance of them whenever
either my friends or myfelf (hould return by fea ; an expe6lation which
I thought it right to encourage among thefe people. He alfo earnedly
requefted me to bring him a gun and ammunition. I might have pro-
cured many curious articles at this place, but was prevented by the con-
fideration that we muft have carried them on our backs upwards of three
hundred miles through a mountainous country. The young chief, to
his other a6ls of kindnefs, added as large a fupply of filh as we chofe to
take.

Our vifit did not occafion any particular interruption of the ordinary
occupation of the people ; efpecially of the women, who were employed
in boiling forrel, and different kinds of berries, with falmc^n-roes, in large
fquare kettles of cedar wood. This pottage, when it attained a certain
confiftency, they took out with ladles, and poured it into frames of about
twelve inches fquare and one deep, the bottom being covered with a
large leaf, which were then expofed to the fun till their contents became fo
many dried cakes. The roes that are mixed up with the bitter berries, are
prepared in the fame way. From the quantity of this kind of provifion,
it muft be a principal article of food, and probably of traffic. Thefe
people have alfo portable chefts of cedar, in which they pack them, as

1793.
July-

N><

i :i;

;l fi,l(.

.«u..

»793-

July.

— v'—

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

well as their falrnon, boili dried and roafted. It appeared to me, that
they eat no Oefh, except fuch as the fea may afford them, as that of the
fea-otter and the feal. The only inftance we obfervcd to the contrar}',
was in the young Indian who accompanied us among the iflands, and
has been already mentioned as feafting on the flefh of a porcupine :
whether this be their cuftom throughout the year, or only during the
feafon of the falmon fifhery ; or, whether there were any cafts of them,
as in India, I cannot pretend to determine. It is certain, however, that
they are not hunters, and I have already mentioned the abhorrence they
exprefled at fome venifon which we brought to their village. During
our former vifit to thefe people, they requefted us not to dilcharge our
fire-arms, left the report fhould frighten away the falmon, but now they
expreffed a wifh that I fhould explain the ufe and management of them.
Though their demeanour to us was of the moft friendly nature, and
they appeared without any arms, except a few who accidentally had
their daggers, I did not think it altogether prudent to difcharge our
pieces ; I therefore fired one of my piftols at a tree marked for the
purpofe, when I put four out of five buck-fhot, with which it was loaded,
into the circle, to their extreme aftonifhment and admiration^

Thefe people were in general of the middle ftatare, well-fet, and better
clothed with flefli than any of the natives of the interior country. Their
faces are round, with high cheek bones, and their complexion between
the olive and the copper. They have I'mnll grey eyes with a tinge of
red ; they have wedge head^, and their hair is of a dark brown colour,
inclining to black. Some wear it long, keep it well combed, and let it
hang loofe over their fhoulders, while they divide and tie it in knots over

« i; the

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. .

the temples. Others arrange its plaits, aijd bedawb it with brown earth,
fo as to render it impervious to the comb ; they, therefore, carry a
bodkin aboi" them to eafc the frequent irritation, which may be fup-
pofed to procee J from fuch a ftate of the head. The women are in-
chned to be fat, wear their hair ftiort, and appear to be very fubjeft to
fwelled legs, a malady that, probably, proceeds from the pofture in
which they are always fitting: as they are chiefly employed in the'do-
meftic engagements of fpintiing, weaving, preparing the fifh, and nurfing
their children, which did not appear to be numerous. Their cradle
differed from any that I had feen ; it confided of a frame fixed round a
board of fufficient length, in which the child, after it has been fwathed,
is placed on a bed of mofs, and a conductor contrived to carry oft" the
urinary difcharge. They are flung over one ftioulder by means of a
cord failened under the other, fo that the infant is always in a pofition
to be readily applied to the breafl, when it requires nourifhraent I faw
feveral whofe heads were inclofed in boards covered with leather, till
they attain the form of a wedge. The women wear no clothing but the
robe, either loofe or tied round the middle with a girdle, as the occafion
may require, whh the addition of a fringed apron, already mentioned,
and a cape, in the form of an inverted bowl or difli. To the robe and
cap, the men add, when it rains, a circular mat with an opening in the
middle fufficient to admit the head, which extending over the fhoulders,
throws off the wet. They alfo occafionally wear (hoes of drelfed moofe-
flcin, for which they are indebted to their neighbours. Thofe parts,
which among all civilized nations are covered from familiar view, are
here openly expofcd.

-M 4il

37*

"~v—

i,,i

ii^nlV

3B2

They

372

July.
— v--

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

They are altogether dependent on the fea and rivers for their fufle-
nance, fo that they may be confidered as a ftationary people; hence it
is that the men engage in thofe toilfome employments, which the tribes
who fijpport theml'elves by the chafe, leave entirely to the women.
Polygamy is permitted among them, though, according to my obferva-
tion, moft of the men were fatisfied with one wife, with whom, how-
ever, chaftity is not confidered as a neceffary virtue. I faw but one
woman whofe under lip was fplit and disfigured with an appendant
ornament. The men frequently bathe, and the boys are continually in
the water. They have nets and lines of various kinds and fizes, which
are made of cedar bark, and would not be known from thole made of
hemp. Their hooks confift of two pieces of wood or bone, forming
when fixed together, an obtufe angle.

''' Their fpears or darts are from four to fixteen feet in length ; the barb
or point being fixed in a focket, which, when the animal is ftruck, flips
from it : thus the barb being fattened by a fl;ring to the handle, remains as
a buoy ; or enables the aquatic hunter to tire and take his piey. They
are employed againil fca-otters, feals, and large fifli. ,

Their hatchets are made principally of about fourteen inches of bar»4.
iron, fixed into a wooden handle, as I have already defcribed them ;
though they have fome of bone or horn : with thefe, a mallet and
wooden wedge, they hew their timbers and form their planks. They
mud alfo have other tools with which they complete and polifh their
work, but my flay was fo fliort, my anxiety fo great, and my fituation fo
critical, that many circumdances may be fuppofcd to have elcaped me. :i
; .** _ . Their

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

373

<■ Their canoes are made out of the cedar tree, and will carry from eight J793«
to fifty perfons. • v-

Their warlike weapons, which, as far as I could judge, they very
feldom have occafion to employ, are bows and arrows, fpears, and
daggers. The arrows are fuch as have been already defcribed, but rather
of a flighter make. The bows are not more than two feet and an half
in length ; they are formed of a flip of red cedar ; the grain being on
one fide untouched with any tool, while the other is fecured with finews
attached to it by a kind of glue. Though this weapon has a very flender
appearance, it throws an arrow with great force, and to a confiderable
didance. Their fpears are about ten feet long, and pointed with iron.
Their daggers are of various kinds, being of Britilh, Spanifli, and Ame-
rican manufa6lure.

Their houfehold furniture confifts of boxes, troughs, and difties form-
ed of wood, with different veflels made of watape. Thefe are employed,
according to their feveral applications, to contain their valuables and
provifions, as well as for culinary purpofes, and to carry water. The
women make ufe of mufcle-fliells to fplit and clean their fifli, and which
are very well adapted to that purpofc.

Their ornaments are necklaces, collars, bracelets for the arms, wrifts,
and legs, with ear-rings, &c.

They burn their dead, and difplay their mourning, by cutting their
hair (hort, and blackening their faces. Though 1 faw feveral places where

bodies

374

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

bodies had been burned, I was furprifed at not feeing any tomb or memo-
rial of the dead, particularly when their neighbours are fo fuperltitioully
attentive to the ere£lion and prefervation of them.

From the number of their canoes, as well as the quantity of their
chefts and boxes, to contain their moveables, as well as the infufficiency
of their houfes, to guard againft the rigours of a fevere winter, and the
appearance of the ground around their habitations, it is evident that
thefe people refide here only during the fummer or falmon feafon, which
does not probably lalt more than three months. It may be realonably
inferred, therefore, that they have villages on the fea-coaft, which they
inhabit during the reft of the year. There it may be fuppofed they leave
the fick, the infirm, and the aged ; and thither they may bear the afhes of
thofe who die at the place of their fummer refidence.

* Of their religion I can fay but little, as my means of obfervation were
very contraft'ed. I could difcovcr, however, that they believed in a
good and an evil fpirit: and that they have fome forms of worlhip to con-
ciliate the protcftion of one, and perhaps to avert the enmity of the
other, is apparent frorr »hc temples which I have defcribed ; and where,
at ftated periods, it may be prefumed they hold the feafts, and perform
the facrifices, which their religion, whatever it may be, has inftituted as
the ceremonials of their public worfhip.

From the very little I could difcover of their government, it is altoge-
ther different from any political regulation which had been remarked

' . ' ' • ■ u ' ^¥

NORTH-WEST CONTINJENT OF AMERICA.

by me among the favagctribclj. It is dn this riVcr e^k)ne that onfiijian
appears to have an exclufive and hereditary right to what was neceffary to
theexiflence ofthofe who are affociated with him. I allude to the fal-
mon weir, or fifhing place, the fole right to which confers on the chief
an arbitrary power. Thofe embankments could not have been formed
without a very great and affociated labour j and, as might be fuppofcd,
on the condition that thofe who aflifted in Gonftrufting it Ihould enjoy a
participating right in the advantages to be d€riy«d frona it. Ncverth°-
lefs, it evidently appeared to me, that the chief's power over it, and the
people, was unlimited, and without control. No one ccMild filh with-
out his permiffion, or carry home a larger portion of what he had
caught, than was fet apart for him. No one could boild an hoafe with-
out his confent ; and all his commands appeawtd to be followed with
implicit obedience. The people at large feemed to E>e on a perfeft
equality, while the ftrangers among them were obliged to obey the com-
mands of the natives in general, or quit the village. They appeJir to be
of a friendly difpofition, but they are fubjedl to fudden gufts of paflion,
which are as quickly compofed ; and the tranfition is inftantaneous, from
violent irritation to the mofl: tranquil demeanor. Of the many tribes of
favage people whom I have feen, thefe appear to be tlje raoft fufcepti-
blc of civilization. They might foon be brought to cultivate the little
ground about them which is capable of it. There is a narrow border
of a rich black foil, on either fide of the river, over a bed of gravel,
which would yield any grain or fruit, that are common to fimilur lati-
tudes in Europe, .J^iuiol A ^iihuiill

lwi> ' .ttoi noinl^il . ut- ^iHidld l»lc>(|uto9 i0ih A

.lAHU

.yj^QtisiCvH The

375

»79S-

July-

: '"■ i i i

i: : "

•I' 'H

ll ''If*' 1'

376

»793'

July.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The very few vrords which I coIle£led of their language, are as fol.
lov/;—

Zimilk,

Salmon,

Dilly,

A fi(h of the fize of a falmon, with canine teeth.

Sepnas,

Hair of the head.

Kietis,

An axe.

Clougus,
Itzas,

Eyes.
Teeth.

Ma-acza,

Nofe.

Ich-yeh,
Shous-Qiey,
Watts,
Zla-achle,

Leg.

Hand.

I>og. . .,,

Houfe. j,.n

Zimnez,

Bark m?'c robe.

Couloun,

Beaver or otter ditto.

Dichts,

Stone. /

Neach,

Fire

Ulkan,

Water.

Gits com.

A mat.

Shiggimia,
Till-kewan,

Thread. tiii-
Cheft or box.

Thlogalt,

Cedar bark.

Achimoul,
Il-caiette,

Beads got upon their coaft.
A bonnet.

Couny,

Nochafky,

Caiffre,

A clam (hell.

A difti compofcd of berries and falmon roes.

What?

CHAP.

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

'mijt m^-^-it. i.-r.-^s'S'iir'.tvMl'

'0t ^^^'

377

'.Vyi

CHAPTER XIII.

•'■'■■ r^

Leave the Friendly Village. Attentions of the natives at our departure.
Stop to divide our provijions. Begin to afcend the mountains. Circum-
jurn/lances of the a/cent. Journey continued. Arrive at the place from
whence we fet out by land. Meet with Indians there. Find tlie canoe^
and all the other articles in ajlate of perfe6l fecurity and prefervation*
Means employed to compel the rejloration of articles which were afterwards

• flolen. Proceed on our homeward-bound voyage. Some account of the
natives on the river. The canoe is run on a rock, &c. Circumjlances of the
voyage. Enter the Peace River, Statement of courfes. Continue our
route. Circumflances of it. Proceed onwards in afmall canoe, with an

' Indian, to the lower fort, leaving the refl of the people to follow me,

■ Arrive at Fort Chepewyan. The voyage concluded.

i'k:

xjLT eleven in the morning we left this place, which T called Friendly
Village, accompanied by every man belonging to it, who attended us
about a mile, when we took a cordial leave of them ; and if we might
judge from appearances, they parted from us with regret.

«79S«

July.

i In a fhort time we halted, to make a divifion of our 6(li, and each man
had about twenty pounds weight of it, except Mr. Mackay and myfelf,
who were content with fhorter allowance, that we might have lefs weight
'V 3C to

378

'793-

.ff>rt

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

to carry. We had alfo a little flour, and fome pemmican. Having com-
pleted this arrangement with all poffible expedition, we proceeded on-
wards, the ground rifing gradually, as we continued our route. When we
were clear of the wood, we faw the mountain towering above, and ap-
parently of impraflicable afcent. We foon came to the fork of the river,
which was at the foot of the precipice, where the ford was three feet deep,
and very rapid. Our young Indian, though much recovered, was ftili too
weak to crofs the water, and with fome difficulty I carried him over on
my back. H .

-.-;» V

It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to afcend the fummit
of the firft mountain before night came on, in order to look for water.
I left the fick Indian, with his companion and one of my men, to fol-
low us, as his Arength would permit him. The fatigue of afcending
thefe precipices I (hall not attempt to defcribe, and it was pall Bve
when we arrived at a fpot where we could get water, and in fuch an ex-
tremity of wearinefs, that it was with great pain any of us could crawl
about to gather wood for the neceffary purpofe of making a fire. To
relieve our anxiety, which began to iocreafe every moment for the fitua-
tion of the Indian, about feven he and his companions arrived; when we
confolcd ourfelves by fitting round a blazing fire, talking of pafl dan-
gers, and indulging the delightful refle^iion that we were thus far ad-
vanced on our homeward journey. Nor was it poflible to be in this
fituation without contemplating ^he wonders of it. Such was the depth
of the precipices below, and the height of the mountains above,
with the rude and wild magnificence of the fcenery around, that I
Ihall not attempt to defcribe fuch an altonifhing and awful combination
of obje^ls; of which, indeed, no defciiption cm convey an adequate idea.

Even

ffi

379

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

Even at this place, which is only, as it were, the firft ftep towards gaining »793'

the fummit of the mountains, the climate was very fenfibly changed. The ' v '

air that fanned the village which we left at noon, was mild and cheering ;
the grafs was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe around it. But here the
Ihow was not yet diffolved, the ground was ftill bound by the froft, the
herbage had fcarce begun to Ipring, and the crowberry bufhes were juft
beginning to bloffom.

So great was our fatigue of yefterday, that it was late before we proceeded Saturday 27.
to return over the mountains, by the fame route which we had followed in
our outward journey. There was little or no change in the appearance
of the mountains fmce we pafled them, though the weather was very fine.

At nine this morning we arrived at the fpot, where we flcpt with the Sunday s8.
natives on the 16th indant, and found our pemmican in good condition
where we had buried it.

-.., J.;'.:? ^ •

. The latitude of this place, by obfervation, when I pafled, I found to
be 52. 46. 32. I now took time, and the diftance between fun and
moon. I had alfo an azimuth, to afcertain the variation.

■ We continued our route with fine weather, and without meeting a
fingle perfon on our way, the natives being all gone, as we fuppofed, to
the Great River. We recovered all our hidden ftores of provifions, and
arrived about two in the afternoon of Sunday, Augufl the 4th, at the
place which we had left a month before.

\ A confiderable Dumber of Indians were enciimped on the oppofite fide
'fdi 3C 2 ' ' ; of

wi'p

llJ'ft

li-

H 1
' I

!l ■■ '
'■' ■ It

il '1

1; 'i I
il ■ •(

'■'■, t

■

38o

»793-
Auguft.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

of the fmall river, and in confequence of the weather, confined to their
lodges: as they mufl have heard of, if not feen, us, and our arms being
out of order f. _ m the rain, I was not fatisfied with our fituation ; but did
not with to create an alarm. We, therefore, kept in the edge of the wood,
and called to them, when they turned out like fo many furies, with their
arms in their hands, and threatening deftru6lion if we dared to approach
their habitations. We remained in our ftation till their paflion and ap-
prehenfions had fubfided, when our interpreter gave them the neceflary
information refpefting us. They proved to be ftrangers to up, but were
the relations of thofe whom we had already feen here, and who, as they
told us, were upon an ifland at fome dillance up the river. A meflenger
was accordingly fent to inform them of our arrival/ J"*- *;.■"■»«•♦.; -»; «v

On examining the canoe, and our property, which we had left behind,
we found it in perfect fafety; nor was there the print of a foot near
the fpot. We now pitched our tent, and made a blazing fire, and I treated
Monday 5. inyfelf,as wcll as the people, with a dram ; but we had been fo long with-
out tailing any fpirituous liquor, that we had loll all relifh for it.
The Indians now arrived from above, and were rewarded for the care
they had taken of our property with fuch articles as were acceptable to

them. ^

,' ; ; ;0i UK* i5diJrtiimv> o.v

At nine this morning I fent five m«n in the canoe, for the various
articles we had left below, and they fomi'^ returned' with- them, and ex-
cept fone bale goods, which had got wet, they were in good order^
particularly the provifions, of which we were noW In^ great need^ ^ > •;

Many of the natives arrived bothfrom the' Bpper and lower parts of

s -.i

the

38i

1793-

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

the river, each of whom was dreffed in a beaver robe. I pwrchafed
fifteen of them ; and they preferred large knives in exchange. It is an
extraordinary circumftance, that thefe people, who might have taken all
the property we left behind us, without the leaft fear of detefclion, fhould
leave that untouched, and purloin any of our utenfils, which our con-
fidence in their honefty gave them a ready opportunity of taking. In
f?ft, feveral articles were miffing, and as I was very anxious to avoid a
qilarrel with the natives, in this ftage of our journey, I told thofe who
remained near us, without any appearance of anger, that their relations
who were gone, had no idea of the mifchief that would refult to them
from taking our property. I gravely added, that the falmon, which was
not only their favourite food, but abfolutely neceffary to their exiftence,
came from the fea which belonged to us white men ; and that as, at the
entrance of the river, we could prevent thofe fifli from coming up it, we
poffefled the power to ftarve them and their children. To avert our
anger, therefore, they muft return all the articles that had been ftolen
from usw This finefle fucceeded. Meffengers were difpatched to order
the reftoration of every thing that had been taken. We purchafed leve«
rai large falmon of them and enjoyed the delicious meal which they-
afforded^-' hvkj mit,^ huu a.r%mviimi ms^^^m^m: at «bnnod« yimcp;:
. M i>/ •iW'3 1 ■'■{'■■ ?»n<j ^m4'i\m'Jib ^m^Atnq<t^i\ ni ycfrisfllfOfi iwi\ '^ftl .tftrt
At noon this day, which I allotted for repofe, I got a meridian altitude,
©. 1. 11. which gave 53. 24. 10. I alfo took^lime. ,,The weather had,
been cloudy at intervals* .0 .:j..> .1.. ^iiUAat>Ui>t);iU i^t >..>■ '.u.n:

-) Every neceflary preparation had bedl m&de ycfterday-foV us tacnii-* Tuefday 6.
ttnue our route to day ; but before ouf departUre> fome of theinj^ivesi
''ijwiofl -- ^'■■■' '"'' •* «.^' !' '"'v^vir ■':'';'■ •■' "./■ ■ ',;.,.■.■. arrived

.;ji

.li'1'6^

ill!

382

i793„
Augult.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

arrived with part oF the ftolen articles; the reft, they faid, had been
— ' taken by people down the river, who would be here in the courfe of the
morning, and recommended their children to our commiferation, and
themfelves to our forgivenefs.

■•Vi,*.

a The morning was cloudy, with fmall rain, neverthelefs I ordered the
men to load the canoe, and we proceeded in high fpirits on finding
ourfelves once more fo comfortably together in it. We landed at,
an houfe on the firft ifland, where we procured a hw falmon, and four
fine beaver fkins. There had been much more rain in thefe parts than
in the country above, as the water was pouring down the hills in tor-
rents. The river confequently rofe with great rapidity, and very much
impeded our progrefs. ':fm:m'm:

.fV.'t. 'i! i'io . ■'■)

n The people on this river are generally of the middle fize, thoogn I faw
matiy tall men among them. In the cleanlinefs of their perfons they re-
femble rather the Beaver Indians than the Chepewyans. They are igno-.'
rant of the ufe of fire arms, and their only weapons are bcv.d and arrows,
and fpears. They catch the larger animals in fnares, but though their
country abounds in them, and the rivers and lakes produce plenty of
filh, they find a diffiiulty in fupporting themfelves, and are never to be
feen but in fmall bands of two or three families. There is no regular
government among t*"?ro; nor do they appear to have a fufficient com-
munication or underitanding with each other, to defend themfelves
againft an invading enemy, to whom they fall an eai'y prey. They have
all the animals common on the ^Teft fide of the mountains, except the
buffalo and the wolf; at ktsU we £iw none of the latter, and there beings
;. none

' II

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

none of the former, it is evident that their progrefs is from the South-
Eaft. The fame language is fpoken, with very little exception from
the extent of my travels down this river, and in a dirc^ line from the
North-Eaft head of it in the latitude 53" or 54" to Hudfon's Bay ; fo
that a Chepewyan, from which tribe they have all fprung, might leave
Churchill River, and proceeding in every direftion to the North- Weft of
this line without knowing any language except his own, would undqr-
ftand them ail : I except the natives of the fea coaft, who are altogether
a different people. As to the people to the Eaftward of thij river, I
am not qualified to fpeak of them. , :j -^

383

Auguft.

ill

^^A 1 mir y-.j

At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, fo that we were obliged to
land in order to repair the injury fhe had received ; and a$ the raiji
came on with great violence, we remained here for the night. The
falmon were now driving up the current in fuch large (hoal§, that the
water fecmed, as it were, to be covered with the fins of them.i

:,::.j'

}^m J^e?*-

About nine this morning the weather cleared, and we embarked.
The fboals of falmon continued as yefterday. There were /frequent
fliowers throughout the day, and every brook was deluged into a river.
The water had rifen at leaft one foot and an half perpendicular in the
lad twenty-four hours. In the dufk of the evening we landed for ihe

Wednef. 7.

night.

^'e!^:m b^ftcfcM^e1^i<^;

. The water continued rifing during the night; fo that we were dif- Thwpfday*.
turbed twice in the courfe of it, to remove our baggage. At fix in the
KK)r«ing we w«re oa our way, and proceeded with continui^l and labo-

-*#5<r

nous

■«793'
A lieu ft,
^t—J

M JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

rious exertion, from the inc reared rapidity of the current. After having
paffed the two carrying places of Rocky Point, and the Long Portage,
we encamped for the night. j i

' 'i*'- •. ' ■ - • -M-il fu ;■>■(,

Friday o. We fct ofF at five, after a rainy night, and in a foggy ntiorning. The

water dill retained its height, The fun, however, foon beamed upon us ;
and our clothes and baggage were in luch a Hate that we landed to dry
I'hem. After fome time we re-embarkedj and arrived at our firft en-
campment on this river about feven in the evening. The water fell con-
fiflcrably in the courfe of the day.

Samrdiiyio. The weftthcr wascloudy with flight fliowers, and at five this morn-
ing we embarked, the water falling as fall as it had rifen. This cirrum-
ilance arifes from the mountainous ftate of the country on either fide of
-the river, from whence the water rufhcs down almoft as fall as it falls
from the heavens, with the addition of the fnow it melts in its way. At
eight in the evening we flopped for the night.

,• babaV/ .D5,.::i-

..* DT;; U'jnti-.in 7v.

Sunday 1 1, t At five this morning we proceeded with clear weather. At ten we
came to the foot of the long rapid, which we afcended with poles much
• eafier than we expefled. The rapids that were fo llrong, and violent in
our paflage downwards, were now fo reduced, that we could hardly be-
lieve them to be the fame. At fun-fet we landed and encamped. > r

MonSny ia. "Tfic weather was the fame as yefterday, and we were on the water at

a very early hour. At nine we came to a part of the river where there

was little or no current. At noon we landed to gum the canoe, when I

• '^^^ took

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

took a meridian altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North latitude. We
continued our route nearly Eaft, and at three in the afternoon approached
the fork, when I took time, and the diftance between the fun and moon.
At four in the afternoon we left the main branch. The current was
quite flack, as the water had fallen fix feet, which muft have been in
the courfe of three days. At fun-fet we landed and too!c our flation
for the night.

585

Augult.

There was a very heavy rain in the night, and the morning was cloudy ; Taefday 13.
we renewed our voyage, however, at a very early hour, and came to
the narrow gut between the mountains of rock, which was a pafl'age of
fome rifle ; but fortunately the ftate of the water was fuch, that we got
up without any difficulty, and had more time to examine thefe extraor-
dinary rocks than in our outward paflage. They are as perpendicular
as a wall, and give the idea of a fucccflion of enormous Gothic churches.
We were now clofely hemmed in by the mountains, which have loft much
of their fnow fince our former paflage by them. We encamped at a
late hour, cold, wet, and hungry : for fuch was the ftate of our provi-
fions, that our neceffary allowance did not anfwer to the a6livc cravings
of our appetites. , ; ;.• .lit*; J ij»r)i,iM ah \ r tl'd

• The weather was cold and raw, with fmall rain, but our neceflitles wdncf. h>
would not fuffer us to wait for a favourable change of it, and at half paft
five we arrived at the fwampy carrying-place, between this branch and
the fmall river. At three in the afternoon the cold was extreme, and
tlu; men could not keep themfclvcs warm even by tlieir violent exer-
tions which our fituation required; and I now gave them the remainder
•^«( ti 3D of *

*ff

M^', t

386.

1793-

Au^uft.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

of our rum to fortify and fupport them. The canoe was fo heavy that
the lives of two of them were endangered in this horrible carrying place.
At the fame time it muft be obferved, that from the fatiguing circura-
ftances of our journey, and the inadequate ftate of our provifions, the
natural ftrength of the men had been greatly diminiftied. We encamped
on the banks of the bad river. ;.»» wjoti ;:.'i,i ?

Thurfdayij. The weathcF was now clear, and the fun fhone upon us. The water
,5 1 (:' < was much lower than in the downward paffage, but as cold as ice, and,
unfortunately, the men were obliged to be continually in it to drag on
the canoe. There were many embarras, through which a paffage might
have been made, but we were under the neceflity of carrying both the
canoe and baggage.

iU. >/lI.» <»^TOC;J^¥rJ«'l»

1 About fun-fet we arrived at our encampment of the 13th of June,
where fome of us had nearly taken our eternal voyage. The legs and
feet of the men were fo benumbed, that I was very apprehenfive of the
confcquences. The water being low, we made a fe .rch for our bag of
ball, but without fuccefs. The river was full of falmon, and another
fifli like the black ba(s.

Friday i6. The wcathcr continued to be the fame as yefterday, and at two in the
afternoon we came to the carrying-place which leads to the full fmall
lake; but it was fo filled with drift wood, that a confiderable portion of
time was employed in making our way through it. We now reached the
high land which feparates the fource of the Tacoutche TefTe, or Columbia
River, and Unjigah, or Peace River : the latter of which, after receiving

r.T

t, I:

many

■w^

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

'387

many tributary ftreams, paffes through the great Slave Lake, and dif-
cmbogues itfelf in the Frozen Ocean, in latitude 695- North, longitude
135. Weft from Greenwich ; while the former, confined by the immenfe
mountains that run nearly parallel with the Pacific Ocean, and keep it
in a Southern courfe, empties itfelf in 46. 20. North latitude and longi-
tude 124. Weft from Greenwich. ,"^^44.m-:

«793-
AuguR.

iiV?-

mwf*^' t

■\s.,..Jrr {,

If I could have fpared the time, and had been able to exert myfclf,
for I was novsr afHi6led with a fwelling in my ancles, fo that I could not
even walk, but with great pain and difticulty, it was my intentbn to
have taken fome falmon alive, and colonifed them in the Peace River,
though it is very doubtful whether that filh would live in waters that
have not a communication with the fea. ;<, -r ■ n tj! m itoifciiso*!

Some of til inhabitants had been here fince we pafled; and I ap-
prehejjid, that on feeing our road through their country, they miftook us
for enemies, and had therefore deferted the place, which is a moft con-
venient ftation ; as on one fide, there is great plenty of white fifh, and
trout, jub, carp, &c. and on the other, abundance of falmon, and pro-
bably other fifh. Several things that I had left here in exchange for
articles of which I had pofleffed myfelf, as objetls of curiofity, were T

taken away. The whirtle berries were now ripe, and very fine of their
kind,,-^,».'j.inw. *\i a«i»} ,s*tvl:'»ji^^i4-r ^^ti^i '^imwj.^ . .utu-m

ij The morning was cloudy, and at five we renewed our progrefs. We Saturday 17.
were compelled to carry from the lake to the Peace River, the paflage,

Ji09U

■•i'V/.'

3DiJ

from

\'H

388

»793-
Auguft.

'" JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

from the falling of the water, being wholly obftrucled by drift-wood.
The meadow through which we pafled was entirely inundated ; and from
the ftatc of my foot and ancle, 1 was obliged, though with great reluc-
tance, to fufomit to be carried over it. <

' .sr.- - '"iwf ^"■■•JH

i. j-f\a^t.pr« -- »,'-■ ^ ■♦'»» *-»»-v AWT

At half pad feven wc began to glide along with the current of the
Peace River ; and almoft at every canoe's length we perceived Beaver
roads to and from the river. At two in the afternoon, an objeft attraft-
ed our notice at the entrance of a fmall river, which proved to be the
four beaver fkins, already mentioned to have been prefented to me by a
native, and left in his pofleflion tO receive them on my return. I ima-
gine, therefore, that being under the neceflity of leaving the river, or,
perhaps, fearing to meet us again, he had taken this method to reflore
thejtn to me ; and to reward his honefty, I left three times the value of the
ikini in their place. The fnow appeared in patches on the mountains.
At four in the afternoon we paffed the place where we found the firft
natives, and landed for the night at a late hour. In the courie of
the day we caught nine outards, or Canddo geefe, but they were sm yet
without their feathers. _ , .

..^. ^, ..-.^ ..,.,..„.,■..( 'fir- -ii md' ' '• h;:r;>'^ :^-'.i i

Sunday 18. As foon as it was light we proceeded on our voyage, and drove on
before the current, which was very much diminiftied in its flrength, fince
we came up it. The water indeed was fo low, that in many parts it
expofed a gravelly beach* At eleven we landed at our encampment
of the leventh of June, to gum the canoe and dry our clothes : we then
re-embarked, and at half pall five arrived at the place, wher'^ I loft my

... , . - book

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

3^9

book of memorandums, on the fourth of June, in which were certain
courfes and diftances between that day and the twenty fixth of May,
which I had now an opportunity to fupply. They were as follow : ,

»79.1-

North-North- Well half a mile, Eaft by North half a mile, North by
Eaft a quarter of a mile, North- Weft by Weft a quarter of a mile, Weft-
South-Weft half a mile, North-Weft a mile and a quarter, North-North
Welt three quarters of a mile. North by Eaft half a mile, North- Weft
three quarters of a mile, Weft half a mile, North-Weft three quarters of
a mile, Weft-North- Weft one mile and a quarter, North three quarters
of a mile. Weft by North one quarter of a mile, North- Weft one mile
and an half, Weft-North-Weft half a mile, Norih-North- Weft three quar-
ters of a mile. Weft one quarter of a mile, North-North-Eaft half a mile,
North-North- Weft two miles, and North- Weft four miles. / . ^^

? We were feven days in going up that part of the river which we came
down to-day ; and it now fwarmed, as it were, with beavers and wild
fowl. There was rain in the afternoon, and about fun-fet we took our
ftation for the night. v ... , . ,. -..«i«».,i i t: * ,t j

'^T.p

'I 1

il We had fome fmall rain throughout the night. Our courfe to-day Monday jg.
was South-Souih-Weft three quarters of a mile, Weft-North- Weft half
a mile, North half a mile. North- Weft by Weft three quarters of a mile.
North by Weft half a mile; a fmall river to the left. South- Weft by Weft
three quarters of a mile, Weft-North- Weft a mile and an half, North-
Weft by North four miles, a rivulet on the right, Weft-Nonh-VA eft three
quarters of a mile ; a confiderable river from the left, North-North- Weft

iy':''-'9 two

390

*793-

AugLlft.

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

two miles, North half a mile, Weft-North- Wefl one mile and an half;
a rivulet on the right, North- Wefl by Weft one mile and a quarter,
Weft-North- Weft one mile, Weft-South-Weft a quarter of a mile,
North-North-Weft half a mile, North-Weft half a mile, Weft-South-
Weft three quarters of a mile, North-Weft by Weft three miles, Weft-
South- Weft three quarters of a mile, North- Weft by Weft one mile; a
fmall river on the right, South- Weft a quarter of a mile, Weft-North -Weft,
iflands, fc <r miles and an half, a river on the left. North half a mile.
Weft a quarter of a mile. North a quarter of a mile. North- Weft by Weft
three quarters of a mile, North-North-Eaft '.iree quarters of a mile,
North-Weft by North half a mile, Weft-North- Weft a mile and an half,
and North-Weft by North half a mile. The mountains were covered
with frefti fnow, whofe Qiowers had diffolved in rain before they reached
us. North- Weft three quarters of a mile. South- Weft a quarter of a mile.
North a mile ^nd three quarters, Weft-North- Weft a mile and a quarter,
North-Weft a mile and an half, North-North- Weft half a mile, Weft-
North- Weft a quarter of a mile. North half a mile ; here the current
was flack : North- Weft by North half a mile. North- Weft by Weft a
quarter of a mile, North-North- Weft a quarter of a mile. North- Weft by
Weft one mile and a quarter, North half a mile, North-Eaft by North
one mile and three quarters, South- Weft one mile and ". quarter, with
an iOand, North by Eaft one mile, North- Weft. Here the other branch
opened to us, at the diftance of three quarters of a mile. ^'^imi &

I expefled from the flacknefs of the current in this branch, that the
Weftern one would be high, but I found it equally low. I had every
reafon to oclieve that from the upper part of this branch, the diftance
■<v« could

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

391

could not be great to the country through which I pafled when I left the
Great River; but it has fince been determined otherwife by Mr. J. Finlay,
who was fent to explore it, and found its navigation foon terminated by
falls and rapids.* . , .,..,,.,,

'793'
A us .

V»i*!3- U : «;*,»«v ;

'^'■-'^ i.

' The branches are about two hundred yards in breadth, and the water
was fix feet lower than on our upward paffage. Our courfe, after the
junftion, was North-North-Weft one mile, the rapid North-Eaft down it
three quarters of a mile. North by Weft one mile and a quarter, North
by Eaft one mile and an half, Eaft by South one mile, North-Eaft two
miles and an half, Ealt-North-Eaft a quarter of a mile ; a rivulet ; Eaft by
South one mile and an half, North-Eaft two miles, Eaft-North-Eaft one
mile, North-North-Eaft a quarter of a mile, North-Eaft by Eaft half a
mile, Eaft-South-Eaft a quarter of a mile, Eaft-North-Eaft half a mile,
North-Eaft two miles, North-Eaft by Eaft two miles and a quarter,
South-Eaft by Eaft a quarter of a mile; a rivulet from the left ; Eaft by
North a mile and an half, Eaft by South one mile, Eaft-North-Eaft one
mile and three quarters ; a river on the right ; North-North-Eaft three
quarters of a mile, North-Eaft a mile and an half, North-Eaft by Eaft a
mile and a quarter, Eaft-North-Eaft half a mile, and North-Eaft by
North half a mile. Here we landed at our encampmci.t of the 27th of
June, from whence I difpatched a letter in an empty keg, as was men-
tioned in that period of my journal, which fet forth our exifting ftate,
progrels, and expeftation;

♦ »

Though the weather was clear, we could iiot err.bark this morning Tuefday co.
before five, as there was a rapid very near us, which required d-^.y-light
to run it, that we might not break our canoe on the rocks. The bag-
gage

392

1793-

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

gage we were obliged to carry. Our courfe was North by Eaft a mile
and an half, North-No rth-Eaft a mile and an half down another rapid
on the Weft fide; it requires great care to keep direftly between the
eddy current, and that which was driving down with fo much impetuofity.
We then proceeded North -North- Weft, a river from the right ; a mile
and a quarter, North-North-Eaft a mile and an half, a river from the
left ; North one mile and three quarters, North-Eaft two miles, North-
Eaft by Eaft two miles and a quarter, Eaft by North one mile, North-
Eaft by Eaft four miles, a river from the left, and Eaft by South a mile and
an half. Here was our encampment on the 26th of May, beyond which
it would be altogether fuperfluous for me to take tiie courles, as they are
infertcd in their proper places.

As we continued our voyage, our attention was attrafted by the ap-
pearance of an Indian encampment. We accordingly landed, and found
there had been five fires, and within that number of days, fo that there
muft have been fome inhabitants in the neighbourhood, though we were
not fo fortunate as to fee them. It appeared that they had killed a num.
ber of animals, and fled in a ftate of alarm, as three of their canoes were
left carelefsly on the beach, and their paddles laying about in diforder.
We foon after came to the carrying-place called the Portage de la Mon-
tagne de Roche. Here I had a meridian altitude, which made the lati-
tude 56. 3. 51. North.

The water, as I have already obferved, was much lower than when we
came up it, though at the fame time, the current appeared to be ftronger
from this place to the forks; the navigation^ however, would now be
attended with greater facility, as there is a llony beech all the way, fo

that

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

that poles, or the towing line, may be employed with the beft efFeft,
where the current overpowers the ufe of paddles.

We were now reduced to a very fhort allowance ; the difappoint-
ment, therefore, at not feeing any animals was proportioned to our
exigences, as we did not pofTefs at this time more than was fufficient to
ferve us for two meals. I now difpatched Mr. Mackay and the Indians
to proceed to the foot of the rapids, and endeavour in their way to pro-
cure fome provifions, while I prepared to employ the utraoft expedition
in getting there ; having determined, notwithftanding the dilinclination
of my people, from the recoIie6lion of what they had fuft'ered in coming
that way, to return by the fame route. I had obfervcd, indeed, that the
water which had fallen fifteen feet perpendicular, at the narrow pafs
below us, had lofl; much of its former turbulence.

As difpatch was effential in procuring a fupply of provifions, we did
not delay a moment in making preparation to renew our progrefs.
Five of the men began to carry the baggage, while the fixth and my-
felf took the canoe afunder, to cleanfe her of the dirt, and expofe her
lining and timbers to the air, which would render her much lighter.
About fun-fet Mr. Mackay and our hunters returned with heavy bur*
dens of the flelh of a buffalo: though not very tender, it wafs very ac-
ceptable, and was the only animal that they had feen, though the country
was covered with tracks of them, as well as of Uie moofe-deer and
the elk. The former had done rutting, and the latter were begin-
ning to run. Our people returned, having left their loads mid-way
on the carrying place. My companion and mylelf completed our

, ,. 3 E •'* ' •' < under-

393)

Auguil.

,ih1U!'-i.

394

»793

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE.

Augufi. undertaking, and the canoe was ready to be carried in the morning.
An hearty meal concluded the day, and every fear of future want was
removed.

Wcclnef. 21,

When the morning dawned we fet forwards, but as a fire had paffed
through the portage, it was with difficulty we could trace our road in
many parts; and with all the exertion of vvhich we were capable, we did
not arrive at the river till four in the afternoon. We found almoft
as much difficulty in carrying our canoe down the mountain as we
had in getting it up ; the men being not fo llrong as on the former
occafion, though they were in better fpirits; and I was now enabled
to affift them, my ancle being almoft well. We could not, however,
proceed any further till the folloMMng day, as we had the canoe to gum,
with feveral great and fmall poles to prepare ; thofe we had hh here
having been carried away by the water, though we had left them in a
pofitron from fifteen to twenty feet above the water-mark, at that time..
Thefe occupations employed us till a very late hour.

Thmfcl. 22. The night was cold, and though the morning was fine and clear, it
was feven before we were in a ftate of preparation to leave this place,
fcmetimes driving with the current, and at other times {hooting the
rapids. The latter had loft much of their former ftrength ; but we^
neverthelefs, thought it neceflary to land very frequently, in order to
examine the rapids before we could venture to ritfi them. However,
th^ canoe being light, we very fortunately puffrd them all, and at
noon arrived at the place where 1 appointed to meet Mr. Mackay and
the hunters : there we found them, with plenty of excellent fat meat,

ready

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

teady roafled, as they had killed two elks within a few hundred yards of
the fpot where we then were. "When the men had fatisfied their appe-
tites, I fent them for as much of the meat as they could carry. In
coming hither, Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the hunters kept
along the high land, and did not fee or crofs the Indian path. At the
fame time, there can be no doubt but the road from this place to the
upper part of the rapids is to be preferred to that which we came, both
for expedition and fafety.

After flaying here about an hour and an half, we proceeded with
the flream, and landed where I had forgotten my pipe-tomahawk and
feal, on the eighteenth of May, I'he former of them I now recovered.

On leaving the mountains we faw animals grazing in every direc-
tion. In pafling along an illand, we fired at an elk, and broke its
leg; and, as it was now time to encamp, we landed; when the
hunters purfued the wounded animal, which had croffed over to
the main land, but could not get up the bank. We went after it,
therefore, in the canoe, and killed it. To give fome notion of our
appetites, I fhall ftate the elk, or at leaft the carcafe of it, which we
brought away, to have weighed two hundred and fifty pounds ; and as
we had taken a very hearty meal at one o'clock, it might naturally be
fuppofed that we (hould not be very voracious at fupper; neverthelefs,
a kettle full of the elk flefli was boiled and eaten, and that veffel re-
pleniflied and put on the fire. All that remained, with the bones.
Sec. was placed, after the Indian fafiiion, round the fire to roaft,
f) 3 E 2 and

395

»793-
Auguft,

■

396 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

»793' and at ten next morning the whole was confumed by ten perfons and
^^ — -V— ^ a large dog, who was allowed his fhare oF the banquet. This is no
exaggeration ; nor did any inconvenience reiult from what may be con-
fidered as an inordinate indulgence.

liiday 23. We were on the water before day-light ; and when the fun rofe »
beautiful country appeared around us, enriched and animated by large
herds of wild cattle. The weather was now fo warm, that to us, who
had not of late been accuflomed to heat, it was overwhelming and op-
preflive. In the courfe of this day we killed a buffalo and a bear ; but
we were now in the midfl; of abundance, and they were not fufficiently
fat to fatisfy our faflidious appetites, fo we left them where they fell.
We landed for the night, and prepared ourfeives for arriving at the
Fort on the following day.

Saturday 24. The wcather was the fame as yefterday, and the country increafing
in beauty ; though as we approached the Fort, the cattle appeared pro-
portionably to diminilh. We now landed at two lodges of Indians,
who were as aftonilhed to fee us, as if we had been the firft white men
whom they had ever beheld. When we had paffed thefe people not an
;;nimal was to be feen on the borders of the river.

At length, as we rounded a point, and came in view of the Fort, we
threw out our flag, and accompanied it with a general difcharge of our
fire-arms ; while the men wer« in fuch fpirits, and made fuch an a£live
life of their paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we

left

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA,

left here in the (pring, could recover their fenfes to anfwer us. Thus we
Janded at four in the afternoon, at the place which we left on the ninth

of May. ^Here my voyages of difcovery terminate. Their toils

and their dangers, their folicitudes and I'ufferings, have not been ex-
aggerated in my defcription. On the contrary, in many inrtances, lan-
guage has failed me in the attempt to defcribe them. I received, how-
ever, the reward of my labours, for they were crowned with fuccefs.

597

>793-
Augull.

;i;

As I have now refumed the chara6ler of a trader, I {hall not trouble
my readers with any fubfequent concern, but content myfelf with the
clofing information, that after an abfence of eleven months, I arrived
at Fort Chepewyan, wher I remained, for the purpofes of trade, during
the f ucceeding winter.

..lIo..! .llU .

THE followihg general, but (hort, geographical view of the country
may not be improper to clofe this work, as well as fome remarks on the
probable advantages thnt may be derived from advancing the trade of it,
under proper regulations, and by the fpirit of commercial enterprize.

By fuppofing a line from the Atlantic, Eaft, to the Pacific, Weft, in
the parallel of forty-five degrees of North latitude, it will, I think,
nearly defcribe the Britifh territories in North America. For I am of
opinion, that the extent of the country to the South of this line, which
we have a right to claim, is equal to that to the North of it, which may
be claimed by other powers. mi^ox.

^ The

398 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

./ ' The outline of what I fhall call the firft divifion, is along that track of

■ ' . country which runs from the head of James-Bay, in about latitude 51.
North, along the Eaftern coaft, as far North as to, and through, Hudfon's
Straits, round by Labrador ; continuing on the Atlantic coart, on the out-
fide of the great illands, in the gulFof St. Laurence, to the river St. Croix,
by which it takes its courfe, to the height of land that divides the waters
emptying themfelves into the Atlantic, from thofe difcharged into the river
St. Laurence. Then following.', thefe heights, as the boundary between
the Britifh poffeflions, and thoft of the American States, it makes an angle
Wefterly until it ilrikes the difcharge of Lake Champlain, in latitude
ij5. North, when it keeps a dire£l Well line till it ftrikes the river St. Lau-
rence, above Lake St. Francis, where it divides the Indian village St.
Rigeft ; from whence it follows the centre of the waters of the great river
St. Laurence: it then proceeds ihiough Lake Ontario, the conneflioa
between it and Lake Erie; through the latter, and its chain of connec-
tion, by the river Detroit, as far iSomh as latitude 42. North, and then
through the lake and river St. Clair, as alfo Lake Huron, through which
it continues to the ftrait of St. Mary, latitude 46^. North ; from which we
will fuppofe the line to llrikc to the Eall of North, to the head of James-
Bay, in the latitude already mentioned.

Of this great traft, more than half is reprefcnted as barren and broken,
difplaying a furface of rock and frefh water lakes, with a very fcattered
and fcanty proportion of foil. Such is the whole coall of Labrador,
and the land, called Eaft Main to the Weil of the heights, which
divide the waters running into the river and gulf of St. Laurence, from
thofe flowing into Hudfon's Bay. It is confequcntl) inhabited only by

a few

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

a Few favages, whofe numbers are proportioned to the fcantinefs of the
foil ; nor is it probable, from tlie fame caufc, that they will encreafe.
The freQi and fait waters, with a fmall quantity of game, which
the few, ftinted woods afford, fupply the wants of nature : from
whence, to that of the line of the American boundary, and the
Atlantic ocean, the foil, wherever cultivation has been attempted*
has yielded abundance; particularly on the river St. Laurence, from
Quebec upwards, to the line of boundary already mentioned ; but a
very inconfiderabk proportion of it has been broken by the plough-
Ihare.

ii'.. ■ ■ !■

The line of the fecond divifion may be traced from that of the firfi:
at St. Mary's, from which alfo the line of American boundary runs, and;
is faid to continue through Lake Superior, (and through a lake called
the Long Lake which has no exiftence), to the Lake of the Woods, ins
latitude 49. 37. North, from whence it is alfo faid to run Wefl: to the
Miififlipi, which it may do, by giving it a good deal of Southing, but not
otherwife ; as the Iburce of that river does not extend further North than
latitude 47. 38. North, where it is no more than a fmall brook; confe-
quently, if Great-Britain retains the right of entering it along the line of
divifion, it mud be in a lower latitude, and wherever that may be, the
line mufl be continued Wed, till it t'-rmiiiates in the Pacific Ocean, to
the South of the Columbia. This di\ ifion is then bounded by the Pucific
Ocean on the Weft, the Frozen Sea and Hudlbn's Bay on the North
and Ealt. The Ruffians, indeed, may claim with jullice, the iflands and
coafl from Behring's Straits to Cook's Entry.

tw The

399

40Q JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

The whole of this country will long continue in the pofleffion of
its prefent inhabitants, as they will remain contented with the produce
of the woods and waters for their fupport, leaving the earth, from various
caufes, in its virgin ftate. The proporlion of it that is fit for cultiva-
tion is very fmall, and is dill lefs in the interior parts : it is alfo very
difficult of accefs; and whilft any land remains uncultivated to the South
of it, there will be no temptation to fettle it. Befides, its climate is not
in general fufficiently genial to bring the fruits of the earth to maturity.
It will alfo be an afylum for the dcfcendants of the original inhabitants
of the country to the South, who prefer the modes of life of their
forefathers, to the improvements of civilifation. Of this difpofition
there is a recent indance. A fmall colony of Iroquois emigrated to the
banks of the Salkatchiwine, in 1799, who had been brought up from
their infancy under the Romifh milfionaries, and inftruded by them at
a village within nine miles of Montreal. '^^ -4 'fJi.ii^ f. . .. .:^;i 'vsi;

A further divifion of this country is marked by a ridge of high
land, rifing, as it were, from the coall of Labrador, and running nearly
South-Well to the fource of the Utawas River, dividing the waters
going either way to the river and gulf of St. Laurence and Hudlbn's
Bay, as before obferved. From thence it flrctches to the North of
Weft, to the Northward of Lake Superior, to latitude 50. North, and
longitude 89. Weft, when it forks from the lall courfe at about South-
Weft, and continues the fame divifion of waters until it paffes North of
the fource of the Milhllipi. The former courfe runs, as has been obferved,
in a North-Weft direction, until it ftrikes the river Nelfon, feparating the
waters that difcharge thcmfeivcs into Lake Winipic, which lornis part
; • of

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

of the faid river, and thofe that alfo empty themfelves into Hudfon's
Bay, by the Albany, Severn, and Hay's or Hill's Rivers. From thence
it keeps a courfe of about Weft-North- Weft, till it forms the banks of
the Miflinipi or Churchill River, at Portage de Traite, latitude ^q. 25*
North. It now continues in a Weftern dire£lion, between the Saflcatchi-
wine and the fource of the Miflinipi, or Beaver River, which it leaves
behind, and divides the Safkatchiwine from the Elk River; when,
leaving thofe alfo behind, and purfuing the fame direflion it leads to
the high land that lies between the Unjigah and Tacoutche rivers, frorai
whence it may be fuppofed to be the fame ridge. From the head of the
Beaver River, on the Weft, the fame kind of high ground runs to the
£aft of North, between the waters of the £Ik River and the Miffinipi
forming the Portage la Loche, and continuing on to the latitude
57 jr. North, dividing the waters that run to Hudfon's Bay from thofe
going to the North Sfea : from thence its courfe is nearly North, when an
angle runs from it to the North of the Slave Lake, till it ftrikes Mac-
kenzie's River.

401

The laft, but by no means the leaft, is the immenfe ridge, or fucceflion
of ridges of ftony mountains, whofe Northern extremity dips in the North
Sea, in latitude 70. North, and longitude 135. Weft, running nearly South-
Eaft, and begins to be parallel with the coaft of the Pacific Ocean, from
Cook's entry, and fo onwards to the Columbia. From thence it appears to
quit the coaft, but ftill continuing, with lefs elevation, to divide the waters
of the Atlantic from thofe which run into the Pacific. In thofe fnow-clad
mountains rifes the Mifliffippi, if we admit the Miftifouri to be its fource,

3 F which

402 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

which flows into the Gulph of xMexico j the River Nelfon, which is loft
in Hudfon's Bay; Mackenzie's River, that difcharges itfelf iuto the
North Sea ; and tiie Columbia emptying itfelf into the Pacific Ocean.
The great River St. Laurence and Churchill River, with many lefler
ones, derive their fources far fhort of thefe mountains. It is, indt. 1, the
extenfion of thefe mountains fo far South on the fea-coaft, that prevents
the Columbia irom finding a more direft courfe to the fea, as it runs
obliiiUely with the coaft upwards of eight degrees of latitude before it
mingles with the ocean.

It is further to be obferved, that thefd iiiountains, from Cook's entry
to the Columbia, extend from fix to eight degrees in breadth Eafterly ;
and that along their Eallern fltirts is a narrow ftrip of very marfhy, boggy,
and uneven ground, the outer edge of which produces coal and bitumen :
thefe I law on the banks of Mackenzie's River, as far North as lati-
tude 66. I alfo difcovcrcd them in my fecond journey, at the commence-
ment of the rocky mountains in 56. North latitude, and 120. Weft longi-
tude; and the fame was obferved by Mr. Fidler, one of the fervants of the
Hudfon's-Bay Company, at the fource of the South branch of the Safliat-
chiwine, in about latitude 52. North, and longitude 112^. Weft.* Next
to this narrow belt are immenfe plains, or meadows, commencing in a
point at about the junftion of the River of the Mountain 'vlth Mac-
kenzie's River, widening as they continue Eaft and South, till they reach
the Red River at its confluence with the Afliniboin River, from whence

• Bitumen is alfo found on the coad of the Slave Lake, in la^^tudc Co. Nortli, near its dif«
charge by Mackenzie's River ; and allu near the fuiks of tiie Elk River.

' they

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

they take a more Southern dire6lion, along the MiflTiirippi towards
Mexico. Adjoining to thefe plains is a broken country, compofed of
lakes, rocks, and foil.

From the banks of the rivers running through the plains, there
appeared to ooze a faline. fluid, Cv>ncreting into a thin, fcurf on the
grafs. Near that part of the Slave River where it firft lofes the
name of Peace River, and along the extreme edge of thefe plaii.">, are
very ftrong fait fprings, which in the fummer concrete and cryftallize in
great quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the South-Weft fide
of Lake Winipic, are alfo many lilt ponds, but it requires a regular
procefs to form fait from them. Along the Weft banks of the former
is to be feen, at intervals, and traced in the line of the dire6lion of the
plains, a foft rock of lime-ftone, in thin and nearly horizontal ftratas,
particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Winipic, and Superior lakes, as alfo
in the beds of the rivers croifing that line. It is alfo remarkable that,
at the narroweft part of Lake Winipic, where it is not more than two
miles in breadth, the Weft fide is faced with rocks of this ftone thirty
feet perpendicular; while, on the Eaft fide, the rocks are more elevated,
and of a dark-grey granite.

403

The latter is to be found throughout the whole extent N«. th of this
country, to the coaft of Hudfon's Bay, and as I have been informed",
from that coaft, onwards to the coaft of Labrador ; and it may be furtheh
obfervcd, that between thefe cxtcnfive ranges of granite and lime-ftone
arc found all the great lakes of this country. ' - 4'

dU^lU 3F2 There

404 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

There is another very large diftri6l which muft not be forgotten ; and
behind 9l\ the others in (ituation as well as in foil, produce, and climate.
This comprehends the tra6l called the Barren Grounds, which is to
the North of a line drawn from Churchill, along the North border
of tl^ Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the Hills and
Slave Lake, and along the North fide of the latter to the rocky moun-
tains, which terminate in the No.th Sea, latitude 70. North, and lon-
gitude 135, Weft; in the whole extent of which no trees are vifible,
except a few ftinted ones, fcattered along its rivers, and with fcarce any
thing of furface that can be called earth ; yet» this inhofpitabie region is
inhabited by a people who are accuAomed to the life it requires. Nor
has bountiful Nature withheld the means of fubfiftence ; the rein deer,
which fupply both food and clothing, are fatisfied with the produce of
the hifUs, though they bear nothing but a fhort curling mofs, on a fpecies
of which, that grows on the rocks, the people themfelves fublifl; when
famine invades them. Their fmall lakes are not fumifhed with a great
variety of fifh, but fuch as they produce are excellent, which, with hares
aod partridges, form a proportion of their food.

The climate muft neceffarily be fevere in fuch a country as we have
defcribed, and which difplays fo large a furface of frefti water. Its feve-
rity is extreme on the coaft of Hudfon's Bay, and proceeds from its
immediate expofure to the North- Weft winds that blow off" the Frozen
Ocean.

1 hefc winds, in crofting direftly from the bay over Canada and the

Britifti

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT DF AMERICA. V

Briti(h dominions on the Atlantic, as well as over the Eafto-n States of
North America to that ocean, (where they give to thofe countries a
length of winter aflonifhing to the inhabitants of the fame latitudes in
Europe), continue to retain a great degree of force and cold in their
paffage, even over the Atlantic, particularly at the time when the fun i&
in its Southern declination. The fame -winds which come from the
Frozen Ocean, over the barren grounds, and acrofs frozen lakes and
fnowy plains, bounded by the rocky mountains, lofe their frigid in-
fluence, as they travel in a Southern direftion, till they get to the
Atlantic Ocean, where they clofe their progrefs. Is not thii a fufficient
caufe for the difference between the climate in America, and that of the
fame latitude in Europe?

It has been frequently advanced, that the difference of clearing away
the wood has had an aflonifhing influence in meliorating the climate in
the former: but I am not difpofed to affent to that opinion in the
extent which it propofes to eflablifh, when I confider the very trifling
proportion of the country cleared, compared with the whole. The em-
ployment of the axe may have had fome inconGderable effect ; but I look
to other caufes. I myfclf obferved in a country, which was in an abfolute
ftatf of nature, that the climate is improving ; and this circumftance was
confirmed to me by the native inhabitants of it. Such a change, there-
fore, mufl proceed from fome predominating operation in the fyftem of
the globe which is beyond my conjeflure, and, indeed, above my compre-
henfion,and may, probably, in the courfe of time, give to America the cli-
mate of Europe. It is well known, indeed, that the waters are decrealing
there, and that many lakes are draining and filling up by the earth
' ' which

405

4o6 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

which is carried into them from the higher lands by the rivers : and this
may have Tome partial effefl.

The climate on the Weft coaft of America aflimilates much more to
that of Europe in the fame latitudes : I think very little differenrj will
' be found, except fuch as proceeds from the vicinity of high mountains
covered with fnow. This is an additional proof that the difference
in the temperature of the air proceeds from the caufe already men-
tioned,

. Much has been faid, and much more ftill remains to be faid on the
peopling 'u America. On this fubje6l I Ihall confine myfelf to one or
two obfervations, and leave my readers to draw their inferences from
them.

The progrefs of the inhabitants of the country immediately under our
obfervation, which is comprifed within the line of latitude 45. North,
' is as follows ; that of the Efquimaux, who poflefs the fea coaft from
the Atlantic through Hudfon's Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie's
River, (and I believe further) is known to be weftward : they never
quit the coaft, and agree in appearance, manners, language, and habits
with the inhabitants of Greenland. The different tribes whom I de-
fcribe under the name of Algonquins and Knifteneaux, but originally
the fame people, were the inhabitants of the Atlantic coaft, and the
banks of the river St. Laurence and adjacent countries : their pro-
grefs is Wcfterly, and they are even found Weft and North as far

•

«Mi

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

as Athabafca. On the contrary, the Chepewyans, and the numerous
tribes who fpeak their language, occupy the whole fpace between the
Knifteneaux country and that of the Efquimaux, ftretching behind
the natives of the coaft of the Pacific, to latitude 52. North, on the
river Columbia. Their progrefs is Eaflerly; and, according to their
own traditions, they came from Siberia ; agreeing in drefs and manner
with the people now found upon the coaft of Afia.

Of the inhabitants of the coaft of the Pacific Ocean we know little
more than that they are ftationary there. The Nadowafis or Affiniboins,
as well as the different tribes not particularly defcribed, inhabiting the
plains on and about the fource and banks of the Safkatchiwine and Affini-
boin rivers, are from the Southward, and their progrefs is North-Weft,

407

c.avv' iu;_i

,.U to5s<^

-i liilR

The difcovery of a pafTage by fea, North-Eaft or North-Weft from
the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, has for many years excited the
attention of governments, and encouraged the enterprifing fpirit of indi-
viduals. The non-exiftence, however, of any fuch pra6lical paft'age being
at length determined, the prafticability of apaffage through the continents
of Afia and America becomes an obje6l of confideration. The Ruffians,
who firft difcovered that, along the coafts of Afia no ufeful or regular
navigation exifted, opened an interior communication by rivers, &c.

and

•w

40B JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

through that long and wide-extended continent, to the ftrait that fepa-
rates Afia from America, over which they pafied to the adjacent iflands
and continent of the latter. Our fituation, at length, is in fome degree
fimilar to theirs : the non-exiftence of a pra6licable pafTage by fea, and
the exiftence of one through the continent, are clearly proved ; and
it requires only the countenance and fupport of the Britifh Govern-
ment, to increafe in a very ample proportion this nation«»l advantage,

and fecure the trade of that country to its fubjefls.

■■v^rn'ut t-.L 'AJ-

Experience, however, has proved, that this trade, from its ver)' nature
cannot be carried on by individuals. A very large capital, or credit, or
indeed both, is neceflary, and confequently an affociation of men of
wealth to direft, with men of cnterprife to a£l, in one common intereft,
mull be formed on fuch principles, as that in due time the latter may
fucceed the former, in continual and progreffive fucceffion. Such was
the equitable and fuccefsful mode adopted by the merchants from Ca-
nada, which has been already defcribed.

The junflion of fuch a commercial affociation with the Hudfon's-Bay
Company, is the important meafure which I would propofe, and the
trade might then be carried on with a very fuperior degree of advan-
tage, both private and public, under the privilege of their charter, and
would prove, in fafl, the complete fulfilment of the conditions, on
which it was fir ft granted. ,

It would be an equal injuftice to either party to be excluded from the
' X '"' ' option

•

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

option of fuch an undertaking ; for if the one has a right by charter, has
not the other a right by prior poffeflion, as being fucceflbrs to the fub-
jefts of France, who were exclufively poffefFed of all the then kno;^
parts of this country, before Canada was ceded to Great-Bruain, except
the coaft of Hudfon's Bay, and having themfelves been the difcoverers
of a vaft extent of country fince added to his Majefty's territories, cvea,
to the Hyperborean and the Pacific Oceans ?

499

If, therefore, that company {hould decline, or be averfe to engage
in, fuch an extenfive, and perhaps hazardous, undertaking, it would not,,
furely, be an unreafonable propofal to them, from government, to give
up a right which they refufe to exercife, on allowing them a juft and
reafonable indemnification for their Itock, regulated by the average
dividends of a certain number of years, or the adual price at which
they transfer their flock.

By enjoying the privilege of the company's charter, though but for a
Umited period, there are adventurers who would be willing, as they are
able, to engage in, and carry on the propofed commercial undertaking,
as well as to give the mofl ample and fatisfaftory fecurity to government
for the fulfilment of its contraQ with the company. It would, at the fame
time, be equally neceffary to add a fimilar privilege of trade on the
Columbia River, and its tributary waters.

If however, it fhould appear that the Hudfon's-Bay Company have an
exclufive right to carry on their trade as they think proper, and con-
tinue it on the narrow fcale, and with fo little benefit to the public as they
now do ; if they fhould refufe to enter into a co-operative junftion with

3 G others,.

410 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE

others, what reafonable caufe can they affign to government for denying
the navigation of the bay to Nelfon's River; and, by its waters, a paflage
to and from the interior country, for the ufe of the adventurers, and for
the IbJe purpofe of tranfport, under the moft fevere and binding re-
ftriftions not to interfere with their trade on the coaft, and the country
between it and the adual eftabhihments of the Canadian traders*.

By thefe waters that difcharge themfelves into Hudfon^s Bay at Port
Nelfon, it is propofed to carry on the trade to. their fource, at the
head of the Safkatchiwine River, which rifes in the Rocky Mountains,
not eight degrees of longitude from the Pacific Ocean. The Tacoutche
or Columbia river flows alfo from the fame mountains, and difcharges
itfelf likewife in the Pacific, in latitude 46. 20. Both of them are
capable of receiving fliips at their mouths, and are navigable throughout
for boats.

The diilance between thefe waters is only known from the report of
the Indians. If, however, this communication (hould prove inaccefli-
ble, the route I purfued, though longer, in confequence of the great

• Iftdependent of the profecution of this great objeft, I conceive that the merchants from Canada
arc entitled to fuch anindulgenre, (evcnif they fliould be confidered as not polTefling a rightful claim,)
in order that they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their prefent limits, and have
it in their power to fupply the natives with a larger quantity of ufeful articles ; the enhanced value of
which, and the prefent difficulty of tranfporting them, will be fully comprehended when. I relate, that
the traft of cranfportoccupies an extent of from three to four thoufand miles, through upwards of fixty
large lakes, and numerous rivers ; and that tlie means of tranfport arc (light bark canoes.. It mull
alfo be obferved, that thofe waters are intercepted by more than two hundred rapids, along which the
articles of merchandifc are chiefly carried on men's backs, and over an hundred and thirty carrying-
places, from twenty-five paces to thirteen miles in length, wlieic the canoes and cargoes proceed by
tlic fame toilfome and perilous operations..

angle

NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA.

angle it makes to the North, will anfwer every neceffary purpofe.
But whatever rourfe may be taken from the Atlantic, the Columbia
is the line of communication from the Pacific Ocean, pointed out
by nature, as it is the only navigable river in the whole extent ot
Vancouver's minute furvey of that coafl: : its banks alfo form the firll
level country in all the Southern extent of continental coaft from Cook's
entry, and, confequently, the moft Northern lituation fit for colonization,
and fuitable to the refidence of a civilized people. . By opening tbisin'teci i
courfe between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and forming re^tflairefh-
blifhments through the interior, and at both extremes, as well as along the
coafts and iflands, the entire command of the fur trade of North America
might be obtained, from latitude 48. North to the pole, except that portion
of it which the Ruflians have in the Pacific. To this may be added the
fifhing in both feas, and the markets of the four quarters of the globe.
Such would be the field for commercial enterprife, and incalculable
would be the produce of it, when fupported by the operations of
that credit and capital which Great Britain fo pre-eminently pofleffcs.
"Ihen would this country begin to be remunerated for the cxpences it
has fuftained in difcovering and furveying the coaft of the Pacific
Ocean, which is at prefent left to American adventurers, who without
regularity or capital, or the defire of conciliating future confidence, look
altogether to the interefl of the moment. They, therefore, colleft all
the fkins they can procure, and in any manner that fuits them, and hav-
ing exchanged them at Canton for the produce of China, return to their
own country. Such adventurers, and many of them, as I have been
informed, have been very fuccefsful, would inftantly difappear from
l»efore a well-regulated trade.

41 1

412 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, Ac.

It would be very unbecoming in me to fuppofe for a moment, that
the Eafl; India Company would hefitate to allow thofe privileges to their
feliow-fubjefts which are permitted to foreigners, in a trade that is fo
much out of the line of their own commerce, and therefore cannot be
injurious to it.

Many political reafons, which it is not neceffary here to enumerate,
inullpreferit.themleJvesjto ther mind of every man acquainted with the
•enfai'.i^ed' JyAcot and -Capacities of Britilh commerce, in fupport of the
xneafure which I have very briefly fuggefted, as promifing the moft im-
portant advantages to the trade of the united kingdoms.

THE END.

Olp Bailst.

ERRATA.

The Reader is particularli/ requejled to attend to the following Errata, as they are ejfential
to thefen/e of the pajfages to which they apply.

PRELBIINARY ACCOUNT OF THE FUR TRADE.

Page

i2i

Line z,

,8,

15.

,6,

»7.

11.

ISJ,

"2»

»7.

28,

»2.

3'.

24,

aa.

»4.

33>

»».

34.

26,

35>

■5.

36.

39'

a a,

40,

43>

22,

46,

»4.

5O)

• 6,

.5«.

IB,

A«.

•4.

53.

64>

55.

««.

56.

60,

63,

»5.

73.

"«.

Ho,

eo.

83.

«7.

101|

lot,

18,

for Croix read CrofTe.
Jor thirty read forty.
for MiiniTooric read Miffifouri.
dtk Portage.
Jor and Montreal, where they received (lores rtad and at Montreal, where

they received, ftored, &c.
for others read winterers.
Jor four read eight.
for this read the.
J>r over read to.
Jor at rM(f to.
Jor Portage read decharge.
in/lead of but a very Ihort diHance from Lake Coulonge read at a very

fliort didance from the Decharge.
Jor the latter comes in read the latter river comes from.
after the uiord paces add next to this is mauvais de Mufique, where, &c.
injiead o/take Us fource from the firft. vale to the great river read at the firft

vafe, from whence the great river.
for the whole diftance read the diflance of this Portage,
Jor in every lake and river rtad along every gi-cat river.
dele the whole of.

fur St. Mary's read St. Mary's coaftways,
for clear read is cleared of wood.
Jor about read in.
Jor Perche read Peche.
Jor they read wc.
Jor which leads through read which condufls thefe waters through the (Lie-

ceeding lakes and rivers, till they difcharge thcmrdves,
Jor ends rwa runs.
dete falling into a lake-pond.
for la Roche read Ic Roche.

Jor lake Pafcau, &c. read PalTcau Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry Berries,
for portage read pointe.

after an half, Uace a period \ after water, a comma,
for land read lake.

Jor that enters lake Winipic, read which enters that lake*
dele off.

for pounds read fhiUings.
/(j>- which rra^i of which.
dele of the lake.
for Croifc read CrolTo,
dele and a.

for bi'fch-tree read birch-tree.
Jor conlidcrablc r«i«/ inconlidcrabie.

JOURNALS

ERRATA.

JOURNALS OF THE VOYAGKS, &.r.

Fage 8, Line

20,

*4».

•ii •

12,

•2»

10,

f»

10,

ir,

10,

104,

12,

i05,

»09»

10,

».33i

i38»

»4.

»4«»

»S7»

20,

21.

184,

«ii,

16,

B16,

»7.

aSB,

ao,

»97t

3a2.

83«.

i4i

834*

9»a>

«,

m r

».

•h*

22,

Jill

»7.

4e|»

22,

4«4»

»3.

4»»»

»».

12,

/or 1785 «<Jif 1786.

in the fecond note, /or fidi r^flrf fleni. '

for Frenchmen read Canadians.

Jor evening read morning. , , .

Jor army read arm*.

for curve read groove. '

for whirtle-berries read hurtle-berrien.

for them read it.

for obtained read completed. i

dele five geefe.
for thefc people read my people.

for the read his.

for the hunter read our hunter.

</«& where.

for iHand feveral rMrf where fevcral.
for according read accordingly.
for Eaft by Eaft read Eaft-South-Eaft.

date omitted.

read Wednefday 12.

for Chin Indians read Carrier Indians, and vke itrfd.

for ftruck read iluck.

date wanting.

for and read or.

for (kin of a lynx read (kins of the lynx.

for beat into bars read in bars.
6, for their iron is manufaflured only into read their manufaftured iron confifts
only of.
in the note,ybr pofitively read earncftly.

for palTage read praflicable palTage.

dele o, 1. II,

for Cando read Canada.

for from read along.
deU difference of.

for and Columbia rivers flow read or Columbia River flows.

for themfelves read itfelf.

in the notc,/or large bkes read large frcfh water lakes.

// IS to be ohfentd, that the Courfcs throughout the Journak ore taken hif Compnfs, and

that the Variation mu/i be conJideraL