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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. t t 3 1 a a 4 5 6 Si mmtm mmm VOYAGES moM MONTREAL THROUGH THE Continent of J^orth America, &c\ &c, il ' i' W)MJ i» «l"*H 'W* *''" ' ■ "^ ■ ■M f I >* ii.* •I ( ^'''';AA:vi.)(.;k :HA( KKyyjK I' S(l V auH CA ^ %' VOYAGES \\^ V IROM ^• M O N T R E A L, ON THE RIVER ST. LAURENCE, THROUGH THE CONTINENT OF NORTH AMERICA, TO THE ' . FROZEN AND PACIFIC OCEANS; Ifi the Years 1/89 ami 1793. i Wrni A PRELIMINAllY ACCOUNT OF THE RISE, rROGRESS, AND PRESENT STA'l'I- O]' THE FUR TRADE OF THAT COUNTRY. I ll.l'STHAT] n Wn II MA 1"^. nV Al.EXANDKU MACKKXZIi; ESQ. L .V D S.' ?lritdh ( onnnt rce, the danger I have encountered, and the toils I have lullered, have found their recompence; nor will the many tedious and weary days, or the gloomy and inclement nights which 1 have palled, luve been pulled in vain. The PREFACE. V The fir'} voyage has ' 'led the dubious point of a praflicable North. Wefl j}afragc; ;ind I tru(f, that it has let tliat long agitated qucftion at relt, and c.\tint, I fear, alford the varie(\' that mav be ex- pcdcd from them; and that which they olfered to the eye, is rot of n nature VI P R E F A C E. a \)\ nature to be effedlually transferred to the page. Mountains and vallies, the dreary wade, and wide-fpreading forefts, the lakes and rivcrsfic- ceed each other in general defcription ; and, except on the coalls of the Pacific Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the nihabitants in a great mealure ilationary, fmall bands of wandering Indians arc the only people whom I fhall introduce to the acquaintance of my readers. The beaver and tlio budalo, the moofe-dcer and the elk, which are the principal animals to be found in tliele countries, ure already fo familiar to the naturalills o( Europe, and have bc:cn lb often as well as corredly defcribed in their works, thai the baie mentiiMi of them, as they enlivened the landicape, or were huntid for food; with a cur- fory account of the foil, the courle and navigation of lakes and rivers, and their various produce, is all lliat can be realonably e\pedcd from me. I do not pollers the fcience of the natuialill; and even if the fiualilications of that charadir hud been attained by nn\ us curious fpirit would not have been graliiird. I could not lloj) to dig into the earth, over whofe furfacr I was compelled to jjals with rapid fleps; nor could 1 turn alirk' to colWii llic planls wliicli nature niiglit have Icattered on the way, when my ilioughts wiic anxi- o'.idy employed in making provilion lor ilu; dav that was paihng over mc. I had to encounter perils by land .iiui p< iils by water; to watch the favage who was our ;;uide, or to guard a-ainll tliofe of his tribe who might medilaic our dclLiudion. 1 had, alio, the pallions and lears PREFACE. vfi feais of others to control and fubdue. To day I had to aflbage the rifing difcontents, and on the morrow to cheer the fivinting fpirits, of the people who accompanied mc. The toil of our navigation was in- ccflant , and oftentiincs extreme ; and in our progrels over land we had no protetiion from the fcverity of the elements, and poflefTed no accommodations or conveniences but fuch as could be contained in the burden on our fliouldcrs, which aggravated the toils of our march, and addcil to the wcarifomcnefs of our way. 'if I Thougli the events which compofe my journals may have little in thcmlclvcs to flrikc the imagination of thofe who love to be a(toni(hcd, or to gratify the curiolity of Rich as arc enamoured of romantic adven- tures; neverthelefs, when it is ooniidered that I explored thole waters which had never hclore borne anv other vell'el than the canoe of the favage; and traverled thofe defcrts where an European had never before prelented himfelf t(^ the eye of it^, fwanhy natives ; when to thefe confiderations are addctl the important objects which were purfued, with the dangers that were encountered, and the diHicultics that were furmounted to attain them, this work will, I flatter myfelf, be found to excite an intercfl, and conciliate regard, in the minds of thofe who pcrufe it. The general map which illufi rates this volume, is reduced by Mr. Arrowlniith from his three-lheet map of North-America, with the latcfl: difcoveries, which he is about to republifli. His profeflional abilites arc well known, and no encomium of mine will advance the general and merited opinion of them. Be lore VI n P R K V A C E. .....4,, .1 Before I roncludo. I mad hcg leave to inform my readers; that they are not to expcd the cluu ms of cnibelhflied luinative, or animated de- feripiion: the approbation due to fimplicity and to truth is all I prcfume to claim; and I am not \vitho',it the hope that this claim will bo allowed me. I have defcribed whatever 1 (iiw with the imprelFions of the moment which ))refenLed it to ir.e. The fncceflive circumRances of my progrefs are related without exaggeration or difplay. I have icldom allowed my- felf to wander into conjerture; and whenever conje£lure has been in dulged. it will be found, 1 truO, to be accompanied with the temper of a man \m.o is nut Jilpoled to think too highly of himfelf: and if at any time I have delivered myfelt with confidence, it will appear, I hope, to be on thofe fuLjc(f;i,s which, from the habits and experience of my liie, will juflilV an imreferved eommimication of my opinions. I am noL a candidate tor literary fame: at the fame time, I cannot but in- dulge the hope that this volume, with all its imperfet'lions, will vot be thouglit unworthy the attention ol the leientihc geographer; and that, by unfolding countries hitherto unexplored, and which, 1 prc- fume, may now be confidered as apart of the Uriiiih doimnions, it wdl be received as a iaiihful tribute to the profperity of my country. ALEXANDER xMACKENZIE. London, November 30, 1801. I Il !% j**^ I fl i ■^ r ! -• .'. • I • • ••■ • I t • • • * , ! A 't! GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FUR TRADE FROM CANADA TO THE NO RTH-WEST. X HE t'ur trade, from the carlieft fettlement of Canada, was confidered of the firft importanrp to that colony. The country was then fo populous, that, in the vicinity of the efhibliOiments, the animals whofe fkins were precious, in a commercial view, foon became very fcarce, if not altogether cxtinft. They were, it is true, hunted at former periods, but merely for food and clAtliing. The Indians, there- fore, to procure the neceffary fupply, were encouraged to penetrate into the country, and were generally accompanied by lome of the Cana- dians, who found means to induce the remotell: tribes of natives to bi.'ig the (kins which were molt in demand, to their fcttlcments, in the way of trade. It is not nccefl'aiy for me to examine the caufe, but experience proves that it requires much iefs lime lor a eivili/.cd people to deviate into a tiie A: '"tr- i5j .,/ / / i \.'K> ; 1 TTTZ 140 I- I ! i35 i3o 12J I'iO li.! LIO '' J / ' . ' ' ) ' ' ' ' I ' I I ' I i I ' I lOD 100 9-> 9« /> ^ 111! • •• • • • •• • • • • • ••• A MAP cirSu • • •• • • ,• ••■ T^etweeii tlie Latitudes 40 dSicfl'.'JO, and Loiigitiul * • . • . , • £Xffi/in7^G 3£d:rici:.YZiJ^:^ • 7}v//f Monti-eal fy Forif^Piipewyan (V//v/// ///< /yy/4'^.fr^y^/^^' Weft Pacific Ocean />/ 11 o — L I I I. • •• • • • •• • 103 LOO III'' 9-J 90 8a 80 7p 70 Qd Oo 5^ M) ^ ^ S ' ^ bF;?ulMERICA / • • •. • ••• •• diirffwO, and Louoitudes 45 and 1«0 WEST, .4rA^ 'oiJt%CliipeT\yan ^t/^v// /^^//^^v^v^/??^ North Sea /5^^ Weft Pacific Ocean mj/g3. "S^ ^^ r""»>r^u /,, .■!./.'/(. />/M:.,;,,/ i.'t Crl .iX'i.h H,.,\rill,r l/„r /u/i:ir \".V,V .\ ;./•/;■//( ,iV/v.Y Sli-,i:i,l . si^'i"''' i. r,il,r //,/,•/!, 7/, « \V:>I>' .\illt:>H Sfni't . b\>7t!^\i}h ,n:}'i<)vihtni i rr! --ylf ' At firfl: thefe permifTions were, of courfe, granted only to thofe whofe chara6lerwas fuch as could give no alarm to the zeal of the mifljonaries : but they were afterwards bellowed as rewards for fervices, on officers, and their widows ; and they, who were not willing or able to make ufe of them^ (which may be fuppofed to be always the cafe with thofc of the latter defcription) were allowed to fell them to the merchants, who neceflarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality of their, agents ; and thefe people, as may be imagined, gave fufficient caufe ibr the renewal of former complaints ; fo that the remedy proved, in fa£l, worfe than the dileafe. . Jv rr iff;,i/;j,hn i . At length, military polls were eftabliflied at the confluence of the dif- ferent large lakes of Canada, which, in a great meafure, checked the evil confequences that followed from the improper conduft of thefe forefters, and, at the fame time, prote6led the trade. Befides, a number of able and refpe6lable men retired from the army, profecuted the trade in perfon, under their refpedive licences, with great order and regu- larity, and extended it to fuch a dillance, as, in thofe days, was coiifi- dered to be an aftonifliing effort of commercial enterprize. Thefe per- fons and the miffionaries having combined their views at the fame V«r-* ^ ] '■*■ ^ a 2 time, ^■ JV A GENERAL HISTORY > \\ Iv, ^^ M time, fecured the refpeft of the natives, and the obedience of the people neceffarily employed in the laborious parts of this undertaking. Thefe gentlemen denominated themfelves commanders, and not traders, though they were intitled to both thofe cliaratlers : and, as for the milTionaries," if fufferings and hardfhips in the profecution of the great work which they had undertaken, deferved applaufe and admiration, they had an undoubted claim to be admired and applauded : they fpared no labour and avoided no danger in the execution of their important office ; and it is to be ferioufly lamented, that their pious endeavours did not meet with the fuccefs which they deferved : for there is hardly a trace to be found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious fun6lions. w'uvju The caufe of this failure muft be attributed to a want of due confi- deration in the mode employed by the miffionaries to propagate the religion of which they were the zealous minilters. They habituated themfelves to tlie fiivage life, and naturaliled themfelves to the favage manners, and, by thus becoming dependant, as it were, on the natives, they acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. If they had been as well acquainted wiih human nature, as they were with the articles of their faith, they would have known, that liie uncultivated mind of an Indian muft be difpofed by much preparatory method and inllruftion to receive the revealed truths of ChriUianity, to atl under its fanftions, and be impelled to good by the hope of its reward, or turned from evil by the fear of its puniUiments. 'J hey (liould have began their work by teaching fome of thofe ufeful arts which are the inlets of knowledge, and lead the mind by degrees to obje6ls of higher coniprehenfion. Agricul- ture fo formed to iix and combine fociety, and [o preparttlory to 5 objetU i OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. v objefls of faperior confideration, ftiould have been the firft thing intro- duced among a lavage people: it attaches the wandering tribe to that fpot where it adds fo much to their comforts; while it gives them a fenfe of property, and of lafling pofireflTion, inftead of the uncertain hopes of the chafe, and the fugitive produce of uncuUivated wilds. Such were the means by which the forells of Paraguay were converted into a fcene of abundant cultivation, and its favage inhabitants introduced to all the advantages of a civilized life. , ; ^ i .. .^ , ;.. .._, • The Canadian miflTionaries fhould have been contented to improve the morals of their own countryman, fo that by meliorating their charader and conduft, they would have given a llriking example of the effcd of religion in promoting the comforts of life to the furrounding favages; and might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the remottft regions of that country, which was the objeft, and intended to be the fcene, of their evangelic labours. But by bearing the light of the Gofpcl at once to thedillanceof two thoufand five hundred nnles from the civilized part of ihe colonies, it was foon obfcured by the cloud of ignorance mat darkened the human mind in thofe dillant regions, ,t ^, I'} 'ii.i'i iKfi\buli fturi^ ohiini Mi-jv/ » rmf ♦>*!*! /»«j .inls . 1 i.- •;/<»» . The whole of iheir long route I have ofun travelled, and the recol- lection of fuch a people as the milfionaries having been there, wascon-* fined to a few fuperannuated Canadians, who had nut left that country fnue tlh teUion to the Englifh, in 1763, and who particularly mentioned the death of fome, and the dillrrHing fituaiion of ihom all. liut if thele religious njcn did not attain the objefcls of their pcrfeverirjg piety, iluy were, during their niillion, of great fervicc to the commanders who engaged It i ! !l .<*'.; VI A GENERAL HISTORY > engaged in thofe diftant expeditions, and fpread the fur trade as far Wed as the banks of the Safkatchiwine river, in 53. North latitude, and longitude 102 Weft. ■ vHn^I.i: rli zi.ht i'm-^dif i.tq} fi X. !,,..,.{',. :»j..! At an early period of their intercourfe with the favages, a cuftom was introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately dif- continued, of not felling any fpirituous liquor to the natives. This admirable regulation was for fome time obferved, with all the refpe6l due to the religion by which it was lanftioned, and whofe fevereft cen- fures followed the violation of it. A painful penance could alone reftore the offender to the fufpended rites of the facrament. The cafuillry of trade, however, difcovered a way to gratify the Indians with their favour- ite cordial, without incurt'ing the ecclef'aUical penalties, by giving, inftead of felling it to them. ' "•.•«•' -••" ....,.« ' But notwithftanding all the re(lri6lions with which commerce was opprefTed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to the immenfe diftance which has been already i^ated; and lurmounted many moft difcouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed ; while, at the fame time, no exertions were made from Hudfon's Bay to obtain even a fharc of the trade of a country which, according to the charter of that company, belonged to it, and, from its proximity, is fo much more acceflible to the mercantile adventurer. '» « • - ^' ■• *= Ofthefc trading conimandcrs, I undorftood, that two attempted to penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but •.iie utmoft extent of their journey I could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a failure of the undertaking. For Of THE FUR TRADE. vu :i For Tome time after the conqueft of Canada, this trade was fufpended, wliich mufl have been very advantageous to the Hudfon's Bay Com- pany, as all the inhabitants to the Wellward of Lake Superior^ were obliged to go to them for fuch articles as thejr h«lbitual ufe had rendered neceflary. Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and were become attached to a favage life, accompanied them thither annually, till mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own country, after an interval of ieveral years, owing, as I fuppofe, to an ignorance of the country in the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence in the conquered. There were, indeed, other difcouragements, fuch as the inimenfe length of the journey neceflary to reach the limits beyond which this commerce mull begin ; the rifk of property ; the expences attending fuch a long tranfport; and an ignorance of the language of thole who, from their experience, muil be necefl'arily employed as the intermediate agents between them and the natives. But, notwithrtand- ingthefe ditliculties, the trade, by degrees, began to fpread over the dif- ferent parts to which it had been carried by the French, though at a great rifk of the lives, as well as the property, of their new poflefilbrs, for the natives had been taught by their former allies to entertain hoflile difpofitions towards the Englifh, from their having been in alliance with their natural enemies the Iroquois ; and there were not wanting a fuHicient number of difconiented, difappointed people to keep alive fuch a notion; fo that for a long time they were confidered and treated as obje61s of hoHility. To prove this dilpofition of the Indians, we have only to refer to the condufc), of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the lurprife and taking of Michilimakinac, about this period, -! f< |i •v*'/? i\ iWi.^l ■•iM '»1'm(^.' 'fii;l(?V' jnu Hence I i i\ If ivm A GENERAL HISTORY Hence it arofe, that it was fo late as the year i jS6, before which, the trade I mean to confider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The firft who attempted itwerefatisfied to go the length of ihe River Cameniftiquia, about thirty miles to the Eaftward of the Grande Portiige, where the French had a principal eftablilhment, and was the line of their communi- cation with the interior country. It was once deftroyed by fire. Here they went and returned fuccefsful in the following fpring to Michilima- kinac. Their fuccefs induced them to renew their journey, and incited others to follow their example. Some of them remained at Camenifti- quia, while others proceeded to and beyond the Grande Poirage, which, fince that time has become the principal entrepot of that trade, and is fituated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. Weft. After ■pafling the ufual feafon there, they went back to Michilimakinac as ; before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increafed numbers. One of thefe, Thomas Curry, with a fpirit of enterprize fuperior to that of his contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthell limits of the French difcoveries in that country; or at leaft till the froft fliould flop him. For this purpofe lie procured guides and interpreters, who were acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at Fort Bourbon, which was one of their pofts, at the Weft end of the Cedar Lake, on the waters of the Safkatchiwine. His rilk and toil were well re- compciifed, for he came back the following fpring with his canoes filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and was falisfied never again to return to the Indian country. ... , . .vlj 'l^.i From this period people began to fpread over every j^art of the coun- try, particulaily where the French iuid cHablidied fcttlnnenis, •)'j.« .' . i; It was about this time, that Mr. Joleph Frobifher, one of the gentlemen engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet unexplored, to the North and Weftward, and, in the fpring of the year 1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill, at Portage de Traite, fo named from that circumflance on the banks of the MifTmipi, or Churchill River, latitude 55. 25. North, longitude 103I. Weft. It was, indeed, with fome difficulty ihat he could induce them 10 trade with him, but he at length procured as many furs as his canoes could carry. In this perilous expedition he fuftained every kind of hardfhip incident to a journey through a wild and lavage country, where his fubfillcnce aepended on what the woods and the waters produced. Thefe difficulties, neverthelefs, did not difcourage him from returning in the following year, when he W4»" equally fucccTsful. , . . h2 He L2£as2 l',f i . I Xll A GENERAL HISTORY He then fent his brother to explore the country ftill further Wefl, who penetrated as far as the lake of Hie a la Croix, in latitude 55. 26. North, and longitude 108 Weft. • ' - > He, however, never after wintered among the Indians, though he retained a large intereft in the trade, and a principal ftiare in the direc- tion of it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his labours; and, bv his hofpitality, became known to every refpeftable ftranger who vifited Canada. , 'W' ;i. ,';ijja -j. <,; . , <^ The fuccefs of this gentleman induced others to follow his example, and in the fpring of the year 1778, fome of the traders on the Safkat- chiwine River, finding they had a quantity of goods to fpare, agreed to put them into a joint ftoci , and gave the charge and management of them to Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was direfted to enter the EngliCh River, fo called by Mr. Frobifher, to follow his track, and proceed ftill further; if poffible, to Athabafca, a country hitherto unknown but from Indian report. In this enterprife he at length fucceeded, and pitched his tent on the banks of the Elk River, by him erroneoufly called the Athabafca River, about thirty miles from the Lake of the Hills, into which it empties itfdf. i Here he pafled the winter of 1778-9; faw a vaft concourfe of the Kniftcneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who ufed to carry their furs annually to Churchill ; the latter by the barren grounds, where they f uffered in- numerable hardfliips, and were fometimes even ftarved to death. The former followed the courfe of the lakes and rivers, through a country that I L OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xni •I .^1 that abounded in animals, and where there was plenty of fifh : but though they did not fufFer from want of food, the intolerable fatigue of fuch a journey could not be eafily repaid to an Indian : they were, there- fore, highly gratified by feeing people come to their country to relieve them from fuch long, toilfome, and dangerous journies; and were im- mediately reconciled to give an advanced price for the articles neceflary to their comfort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and fuccels was accordingly beyond his expeflation ; and he procured twice as many furs as his canoes would carry. They alfo fupplied him with as much provifion as he required during his refidence among them, and Tufficient for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not embark, he fecured in one of his winter huts, and they were found the following feafon, in the fame ftate in which he left them. , , > • ■ ^ Thefe, however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent the people of Canada from feeing the improper conduct of fome of their affociates, which rendered it dangerous to remain a;iy longer among the natives. Moft of them who palled the winter at the Safkatchiwine, gpt to the Eagle hills, where, in the fpring of the year 1782, a few days pre- vious to their intended departure, a large band of Indians being engaged in drinking about their houfes, one of the traders, to eafe himfelf of the troublelbme importunities of a native, gave him a dofe of laudanum in a glafs of grog, which effetlually prevented him from giving further trouble to any one, by fetting him alleep for ever. This accident pro- duced a fray, in which oiie of the traders, and fevcral of tiie men, were killed, while the rell had no other means to (ave themielvcs but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a conliderable quantity of goods, aiul * near i " U I XIV A GENERAL HISTORY near half the furs which they lad co)le6led during the winter and the fpring. ' =• 's» :; ri!^,- . ■ ;. About the fame time, two of the eftablifhments on the Affiniboin river, were attacked with iefs juitice, when feveral white men, and a greater number of Indians were killed. In fhort, it appeared, that the natives had formed a refolution to extirpate the traders ; and, without entering 'nto any further reafonings on the fubje6l, it appears to be in- controvertible, that the irregularity purfued in carrying on the trade has brought it into its prefent forlorn fituation ; and nothing but the greateft calamity that could have befallen the natives, laved the traders from deftrudlion : this was the fmall pox, which fpread its d"?irii61tive and defolating power, as the fire confumes the dry grafs of the field. The fatal infeflion fpread around with a baneful rapidity which no flight could efcape, and with a fatal efFeft that nothing could refift. It de- flroyed with its peflilential breath whole families and tribes ; and the horrid fcene prefented to thofe who had the melancholy and afflifting opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead, the dying, and fuch as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around them, pre- pared to difappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their own exiltence. :i 'f The habits and lives of thefe devoted people, which provided not to- day for the wants of to-morrow, mufl have heightened the pains of fuch an affliftion, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without alleviation. Nought was left them but to fubmit in agony and defpair. To OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. XV To aggravate the pi6lure, if aggravation were poffible, may be added, the putrid carcafes which the wolves, with a furious voracity, dragged forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the dogs, whofe hunger was fatisfied with the disfigured remains of their mailers. Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the infe6lion had not reached, to call them around him, to reprefent the cruel fuffer- ings and horrid fate of their relations, from the influence of fome evil fpirit who was preparing to extirpate their race ; and t.; incite them to baffle death, with all its horrors, by their own poniards. At the fame lime, if their hearts failed them in this neceflary a6l, he was himfelf ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the lad a6l of his affeftion, and inttantly to follow them to the common place of reft and refuge from human evil. It was never fatisfa£lorily afcertamed by what means this malignant diforder was introduced, but it was generally fuppofed to be from the Mifliflbaic, by a war party. The confequence of this melancholy event to the traders muft be felf-evident ; the means of difpofing of their goods were cut off; and no furs were obtained, but fuch as had been gathered from the habitations of the deceafed Indians, which could not be very confiderable : nor did they look from the loffes of the prefent year, with any en< ouragmg ex peftations to t^ofe which were to come. The only fortunate people confifted of a party who had again penetrated to the Northward and Weft ward in 1780, at fome dillance up the Miffinipi, or hnglifh River, to To i«h XVI OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. to Lake la Rouge. Two unfortunate circumftances, however, happened to them; which are as follow. . rv-^ -'; 1 . ti . • .-^ Mr. Wadin, a Swifs gentleman, of ftrift probity and known fobriety, had gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the fummer 1780. His partners and others, engaged in an oppofite intereft, wiicu at the Grande Portage, agreed to fend a quantity of goods on their joint ac- count, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was propofed by them to be their reprefentative to aft in conjunftion with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of more oppofite charafters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In (hort from various caufes, their fituations became very uncomfortable to each other, and mutual ill-will was the natural confequence: without enter- ing, therefore, into a minute hiftory of thefe tranfa£lions, it will be fuf- ient to obferve, that, about the end of the year 1780, or the begin- ning of the year 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his own clerks to dinner ; and, in the courfe of the night, the former was Ihot through the lower part of the thigh, when it was faid that he ex- pired from the lofs of blood, and was buried next morning at eight o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were tried for this murder at Mon- treal, and acquitted : neverthelefs, their innocence was not fo apparent as to extinguilh the original fufpicion. The other circumflance was this. In the fpring of the year, Mr. Pond fent the abovementioned clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward, who ufed to go annually to Hudfon's Bay; when he eafily perfuadcd them to trade with him, and return back, that they might not (■,. ' take OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xvii take the contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eailward of them : but moft unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with them, to the deflruftion of themfelves and the neighbouring tribes. The country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends from Canada, who, from various caufes already mentioned, were very much reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began ferioufly to think of making permanent eltablifhments on the Miflinipi river, and at Athabafca ; for which purpofe, in 1781-2, they fele6led their bed canoe-men, being ignorant that the fmall pox penetrated that way. The moft expeditious party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, or Mithy-Ouinigam Portage, which divides the waters of the Miflinipi from thofe that fall into the Elk river, to difpatch one canoe ftrong handed, and light-loaded, to that country ; but, on their arrival there, they found, in every direftion, the ravages of the fmall pox ; fo that, from the great diminution of the natives, they returned in the fpring with no more than feven packages of beaver. The ftrong woods and mountainous countries afforded a refuge to thofe who fled from the contagion of the plains ; but they were fo alarmed at the furrounding deftiuftion, that they avoided the traders, and were difpirited from hunt- ing except for their fubfiftence. The traders, however, who returned into the country in the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in feme fort of tranquillity, and more numerous than they had reafon to expeft, fo that their fuccefs was proportionably better. During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in this trade, formed a junftion of interefts, under the name of the North- C Weft I • ■ ' I tJBm H n U ] XVlll A GENERAL HISTORY Well Company, and divided it into fixteen (hares, without depofiting any capital ; each party furnidiing a proportion or quota of fuch articles as were neceflary to carry on the trade : the refpeftive parties agreeing to i'atisFy the friends they had in the country, who were not provided for, accordin<^ to this agreement, out of the proportions which they held. The management of the whole was accordingly entruded to Meffrs. Ben- jamin and Jofeph Frobifher, and Mr. Simon M'TaviQi, two diflin6l houles, who had the great H: intereft and influence in the country, and for which they were to receive a (lipulated commiffion in all tranfaftions. In the fpring, two of thofe gentlemen went to the Grande Portage with their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the parties having an option, except Mr, Peter Pond, who was not fatisfied with the (hare allotted him. Accordingly he, and another gentleman, Mr. Peter Pangman, who had a rig>t to be a partner, but for whom no provifion had been made, came to Canada, with a determination to return to the country, if they could find any pcrfons to join them, and give their fcheme a proper fiipport. . . , , ,• ,:-:;.•,.. : . .5 , The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus en- tered into a co-partnerfhip, which, by thcfe means, was confolidated and direOed by able men, who, from the powers with which they were entrufled, could carry on the trade to the utmofl extent it would bear. The traders in the country, therefore, having every reafon to expeft that their pad and future labours would be recompcnfed, for- got all their former animofitics, and engaged with the utmoll I'pirit and a6livity, to forward the general intercil; fo that| in the following year, ' they i»'.. OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. XIX they met their agents at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden with rich furs from the different parts of that imraenfe tra6l of country. But this fatisfaSion was not to be enjoyed without fome interruption; and they were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed on Meffrs. Gregory and Macleod to join him, and give him their fupport in the bufineCs, though deferted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms offered by his former affociates. > In the counting houfe of Mr. Gregory I had been five years; and at this period had left liin., with a fmaij adventure of goods, with which he had entrulled me, to leek my fortune at Detroit. He, without any folicitation on my part, had procured an infertion in the agree- ment, that I fhould be admitted a partner in this bufinefs, on con- dition that I would proceed to the Indian country in the following fpring, 1785, His partner came to Detroit to make me fuch a propo- fition. I readily alfented to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande Portage, where I joined my affociates. '■!l .S We now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the undertaking, we fliould have to encounter every other which they, who were already in poffeffion of the trade of the country, could throw in our way, and which their circumffanccs enabled them to do. Nor did they doubt, from their own luperior experience, as well as that of their clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and its inhabitants, that they fhould foon compel us to leave the coun- try to them. The event, however, did not juHify their expecta- tions; for, after the feverefl flruggle ever known in that pari of the woi id. MX A GENERAL HISTORY 1 ^ li A f I 1 I: Uf; hi world, and fuffeiing every oppreflion which a jealous and rival fpirit could inftigatc; aCier the murder of one of our partners, thclaming of another, and the narrow efcapc of one of our clerks, who received a bullet through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they were com- pelled to allow us a (hare of the trade. As wc had already incurred a lofs, this union was, in every refpe6l, a defirable event to us, and was concluded in the month of July 1787. ... •. This commercial eflablifliment was now founded on a more I'olid bafis than any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued in full force, vigour, and profpcriiy, in i'pitc of all interference from Canada, but maintained at leall an equal fhare of advantage with the Hudfon's-Bay Company, notwithUanding the fuperiority of their local fituation. The following account of this felf-ere6ted concern will mani- fell the caufe of its fuccefs. . : .it t . ' ' ' It afl'umcd the title of the North-Wefl; Company, and was no more than an alTociaiion of commercial men, agreeing among them- lelves to carry on the fur trade, unconnc6led with any other bufincfs, though many of the parties engaged had extenfive concerns alto- gether foreign to it. It may be faid to have been fupi)ortcd entirely upon credit ; for, whether the capital belonged to the proprietor^ or was borrowed, it equally bore intcrcll, for which the affociation was annually accountable. It confilled of twenty (hares, unequally divided amongi the perfons concerned. Of thele, a certain proportion was held by the people who managed the bufinefs in Canada, and were Ilylcd agents for the Company. Their duty was to import the ncccdary goods from England 'h f •^ ? OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. XXI England, ftore them at their own expence at Montreal, get them made up into the articles fuited to the trade, pack and forward them, and fupply the cafli that might be wanting for the outfits ; for which they received, independent of the profit on their (hares, a commiflion on the amount of the accounts, which they were obliged to make out annually, and keep the adventure of each year diftinft. Two of them went an- nually to the Grande Portage, to manage and tranfaft the bufinefs there, and on the communication at Detroit, Michiliraakinac, St. Mary's, and Montreal, where they received (lores, packed up, and fhipped the company's furs for England, on which they had alio a fmall commifTion. The remaining (hares were held by the proprietors, who were obliged to winter and manage the bufinefs of the concern with the Indians, and their refpeflive clerks, &c. They were notfuppofed to be under any obliga- tion to furni(h capital, or even credit. If they obtained any capital by the trade, it was to remain in the hands of the agents ; for which they were allowed intereft. Some of them, from their long fervices and influence, held double (hares, and were allowed to retire from the bufinefs at any period of the exifting concern, with one of thofe (hares, naming any young man in the company's fcrvice to fucceed him in the other. Se- niority and merit were, however, confidered as affording a claim to the fuccelfion, which, ncverthelefs, could not be difpofcd of without the con- currence of the majority of the concern ; who, at the fame time relieved the feceding perfon from any refponfibility relpcding the (hare tiiat he transferred, and accounted for it according to the atniual value or rate of the property; fo that the feller could have no advanttigc but that of get- ting the (hare of ttock which he retained rcalilcd, and receiving lor the transferred (hare what was fairly determined to be the worth of it. I he • / former m^ m xxii A GENERAL HISTORY former was alfo difcharged from all duty, and became a dormant part- ner. Thus, all the young men who were not provided ibr at the begin- ning of the contraft, fucceeded in fucceflTion to the chara61er and advan- tages of partners. They entered '*^to the Company's fer'Mce for five or feven years, under fuch expe6lations, and their reafonable ^ rofpe£ls were feldom difappointed : there were, indeed, inllances when they fucceeded to {hares, before their apprenticcfliip was expired, and it frequently hap- pened that they were provided for while they were in a ftate of articler" clerkftiip. Shares were transfeiTable only to the concern at large, as no perfon could be admitted as a partner who had not ferved his time to the trade. The dormant partner indeed might difpofe of his intereft to any one he chofe, but if the tranfaClion were not acknowledged by his adbciates, the purchafer could only be confidered as his agent or attor- ney. Every (hare had a vote, and two thirds formed a majority. .This regular and equitable mode of providing for the clerks of the company, excited a fpiril of emulation in the difcharge of their various duties, and in faft, made every agent a principal, who perceived his own profperity to be immediately conneded witi: that of his employers. Indeed, with- out fuch a fpirit, fuch a trade could not have become fo extended and advantageous, as it has been and now is. ' ^ . :f 1. ■ 11 I In 1788, the grofs amount of the adventure for th" year did not ex- ceed foity thoufand pounds,* but by the exertion, cntcrprife, and in- dullry of the proprietors, it was brought in eleven years to triple that • This might be properly tailed the flock of the company, as it intluded, with the expeiuliiure oF ihe year, the nmount tif the piopcriy uncxijcndi-d, which had brtn appropriatfd for the adventure of that year, and was lairifd on to the ariomit ol' tin- following adventure. atuount OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. XX HI amount and upwards ; yielding proportionate profits, and furpafTing, in ihort, any thing known in America. Such, therefore, being the profperous ftate of the company, it, very naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a man- ner by no means benencial to the company, and commonly ruin- ous to the undertakers. :♦ r . In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the fliares were incrcafed to forty-fix, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed by all the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to aft upon the old flock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new one; and it now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under the fame regulations and by ihe fame exertions, though unequal in num- ber, can continue to carry on the bufinefs to a fucccfsful ilfue. The contrary opinion has been held, which, if verified, will make it the in- tered of the parties again to coalefce ; for neither is deficient in capital to fupport their obftinacy in a lofing trade, '4S ii. is not to be fuppofed that either will yield on any other terms than perpetual patricipation. It will not be fuperfluous in this place, to explain .\2 general moo: of carrying on the fur trade. . t lie o\' lie of )unt The agents arc obliged to order the neccfiary goods from Fngland in the month of 06lober, eighteen months before they can leave Mon- treal } that is, they are not ftiippcd from London until the fi)ring fol- lowing, -%.* J XXIV A GENERAL HISTORY If ' L lowing, when they arrive in Canada in the fummer. In the courle of the following winter they are made up into fuch articles as are required for the favages ; they are then packed into parcels of ninety pounds weight each, but cannot be fent from Montreal until the May following ; fo that they do not get to market until the enfuing winter, when they are exchanged for furs, which come to Montreal the next fall, and from thence arc fhipped, chiefl) to London, where they are not fold or paid for before the fucceeding fpring, or even as late as June ; which is forty- two months after the goods were ordered in Canada ; thirty-fix after they had been fhipped from England, and twenty-four after they had been forwarded from Montreal ; fo that the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months credit, does not receive a return to pay for thofe goodsj and the neceffary expences attending them, which is about equal to the value of the goods themfelves, till two years after they are con- fidered as cafh, which makes this a very heavy bufmefs. There is even a fmall proportion of it that requires twelve months longer to bring round the payment, owing to the immenfe diflance it is carried, and from the fhortnefs of the feafons, which prevents the furs, even after they are cc'llefted, from coming out of the country for that period. k • Tliis will be better illuflratcd by the following flatcment : We will fuppofe the goods for 1 798 ; The orders for the goods arc (cnt to this country - . . - 25th Oft. 1796, They are Ditpped from London ..... March 1797. They anive in Montreal ...... June 1797. They are made up in the courfc of that (ummer and winter. They are (ent from Montreal ..... May 1798. They arrive in the Indian country, and arc exchanged for furs the following winter 1798-9. Which furs come to Monliril .... . Sept. 1799. And are (hipped for London, where they are fold in March and April, and paid for in May ur June ..... . 1800. The ^':! OF*rHE FUR TRADE, &c. xxv The articles neceflaTy for this trade, are coarfe woollen cloths of dif- ferent kinds; milled blankets of different fizes; arms and ammunition; twin and carrot tobac3 flit This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of Britifh manufaftory, for thofe who are employed in the different; branches of this bufinefs, arc enabled by their gains to purchafe fuch Britifh articles as they muft otherwife forego. ^dlib (•#» ( A'-i " The produce of the year of which I am now fpeaking, confifkd oftHe following furs and peltries: • ■ 6000. Lynx (kins, f ,j 600 Wolverine Ikins, I,- ,i lo 1650 Fiflier (kins, 1 ))h 100 Kackoon (kins, iS i, .i^f^^ 3800 Wolf (kins, . ,,,jv:iui\ 700 Elk (kins, 750 Dccrfkins, t ?^I 1200 Deer (^ips, dre(fed| .)a.>j _^^ 106,000 Beaver (kins, ..(1 iu^*«° Bear (kins. -^|5 xi*50Q Foxadns, 4000 Kitt r;ox (kins, 4600 Otter (kins, 17,000 Mufquafh (kins, 32,000 Marten (kins, V 1800 Mink (kins. oi 500 Buffalo robes, and a quantity of caflorum. d Of ma iH XXVL A GENERAL HISTORY I ■ '0 (V • .•;^voToli.iurl feventy- I OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. XXV li furs duty from irket, :ourre ill no )c the id to cet. feventy-one interpreters and clerks^ one thoufand one hundred' and twenty canoe men, and thirty-five guides. Of thefe, five clerks; eighteen guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe men, were employed for the fummer Icafon in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage, in canoes, part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be hereafter explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers. Thefe were hired in Car.ada or Montreal, and were abfent from the ift of May till the latter end of September. Fdr' this trip the gi"Hes had from eight hundred to a thoufand livres, and a fuitable equipment; the foreman and fteerfman from four to fix hundred livres; the middle- men from two hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with an equipment of one blanket, one Ihirt, and one pair of trowfers; and were maintained during that period at the expence of their employers. Independent of their wages, they were allowed to traffic, and many of them earned to the amount of their wages. About one third of thefe went to winter, and had more than double the above wages and equipments All the others were hired by the year, and fome times for three years; and of the clerks many were apprentices, who were generally engaged for five or feven years, for which they had only one hundred pounds, provifion and clothing. Such of them who could not be provided for as partners, at the expiration of this time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to three hundred pounds per annum, with all neceU'aries, till provifion was made for them. Thole who a6led in the two-fold capacity of clerk and- interpreter, or were fo denominated, had no other expetlition than the payment of wages to the amount of from one thoufand to f jur thoufand livres per annum, with clothing and provifions. The guides, who are a very uleful let of men, a6led alio in the additional capacity of interpreters,' Xi2 anc li n U H XXV.III A GENERAL HISTORY and had a ftated quantity of goods, cohfidered as fufficient for their wants, their wages being from one to three thoufand livres. The canoe men are of two defcriptions, foremen and fteerfmen, and middlemen. The two firfl were allowed annually one thoufand two hundred, and the latter four hundred, Uvres each. The firft clafs had what is called an equipment, conlilling of two blankets, two fliirts, two pair of trowfers, two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco, and fomc trifling articles. The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and all the other arti- cles : thofe are called North Men, or Winterers; and to the laft clafs of people were attached upwards of feven hundred Indian women and children, vi6lualled at the expence of the company. . This firft clafs of people are hired in Montreal five months before they fet out, and receive their equipments, and one third of their wages in advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo may be formed from the following account of the country through which they pafs, and their manner of proceeding. i The neccffary number of canoes being purchafcd, at aboi^t three hun- dred livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and fivers free of ice, which they ufually are in the beginning of May, they are then difpalched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight or ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; ana fixty-five p€u:k- ages of goods, fix hundred weight of bifcuit, two hundred weight of pork, three bulhcls of peafe, for the men's pro vifi on; two oil cloths to cover the goods, a fail, &c. an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a fponge to bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to ;• ji :. w) repair OF THE FUR TRADE, «&c. xxix repair the veflel. An European on feeirtg one of thefe flehdef veffels thus laden, heaped up, and funk with her gunwale within fix inches of the water, would think his fate inevitable in fuch a boaf, when he reflefted on the nature of her voyage ; but the Canadians are fo expert that fevr accidents happen.'i-«^ t>nii ,?JooJ|a?> bm ,t? Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of the Weftem extremity of the ifland of Montreal, the lake of the two mountains being in fight, which may be termed the commencement of the Utawas River. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take out part, if not the whole of their lading. It is from this fpot that the Canadians confider they take their departure, as it poffeffes the laft church on the ifland, which is dedicated to the tutelar faint of voyagers. r- The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but ik)t more than three wide, and furrounded by cultivated fields, except the Seignory belonging to the clergy, thoogh nominally in poffeffion of the twa tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whofe village is fituated on a delightful point of land under the hills, which, by the title of mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the extremity of the point their church is built, which divides tlie village in two parts, forming a regular angle along the water fide. On the Eaft is the ftation of the Algonquins, and on the Weft, one of the Iroquois, confifting in all of about five hundred warriors. Each parly has its miffionary, and divine worrnip is performed accord- ing to the rites of the Roman Catholic religion, in their refijeQive ian- guages in tilie fame church : and fo atfiduous have their paftors been, that thefe people have been inllrutled in readiiig and writing in their xaiij . . • own XXX A GENERAL HISTORY !i, li .SI' fi own language, and are better inrtrufted than the Canadian inhabitants of the country of the lower ranks : but notwithftanding thefe advantages, and though the eflablilhment is nearly coeval with the colonization ot the country, they do not advance towards a ftate of civilization, but re- tain their ancient habits, language, and cuftoms, and are becoming every day more depraved, indigent, and infignificant. The country around them, though very capable of cultivation, prefents only a few raiferable patches of ground, Town by the women with maize and vegetables. Puring the winter i'eafon, they leave their habitations, and pious paftors, to follow the chafe, according to the cuftom of their forefathers. Such is, indeed, the ftate of all the villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But we fhall now leave them to proceed on our voyage. ..nor* an f:ib«fli;3 u At the end of the lake the water contradls into the Utawas River, whjich, after a courfe of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a fucceflion of rapids and cafcades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which the Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were wafte land, till the conclufion of the American war, when they were furveyed by order of government, and granted to the officers and men of the eighty- fourth regiment, when reduced; but principally to the former, and confequently little inhabited, though very capable of cultivation.- sslHyil) The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry the goods upon their backs, or rather fufpended in flings from their heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though fome carry three. Here the canoe is towed by a ftrong line. There are fome places where the ground will not admit of tlieir carrying the whole ; iV-fo they 'i i\i OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. XXXI they then make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go and land it at the diftance required ; and then return for that which was left. In this diilance are three carrying-places, the length of which depends in a great meafure upon the flate of the water, whether higher or lower ; from the laft of thefe the river is about a mile and an half wide, and has a regular current for about fixty miles, when it ends at the firft Portage de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, over cragged, excavated rocks, in a moft wild, romantic manner. At a fmall diftance below, is the river Rideau on the left, falling over a perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in one fheet, affuming the appearance of a curtain ; and from which circuraftance it derives its name. To this extent the lands have been furveyed, as before obferved, and are very fit for culture. Many loyalifts are fettled upon the river Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving plantations. Some American families preferring the Britifh territory, have alfo eftablilhed themfelves along a river on the oppofite fide, where the foil is excellen: Nor do I think the period is far diftant, when the lands will become fettled from this vicinity to Montreal. - ' > : ' ■' ' •'Over this portage, which is fix hundred and forty-three paces long, the canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is fo fteep and difficult of accefs, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe out of the water: it is then carried by fix men, two at each end on the fame fide, and two under the oppofite gunwale in the middle. From hence to the next is but a fliort diftance, in which they make two trips over the fecond Portage de Chaudiere, which is feven hundred paces, to carry the loading alone. From hence to the next and laft Chaudiere, or Portage des Chenes, is about fix .««i««a.ilcu,idt>>>W: .' XXXll A GENERAL HISTORY |.!^ 1^^ U if '^' fix iT.ilrs, ^^(ilh a very ftrong current, where the goods are carried feven hundred and forty paces; the canoe being towed up by the hue, when the water is not very high. We now enter Lac des Chaudieres, which is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though it is called a lake, there is a (hong draught downwards, and its breadth is from two to four miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, over which the canoe and lading are carried two hundred and leventy-lour paces; and very dif- ficult it is for the forme". 1 he river is here barred by a ridge of black rocjts, rifing in pinnacles and covered v/ith wood, which, froin the fmall quaniiiy of loil that nouriflies it, is low and, Hinted. The river finds its wayover and through th.ele rocks,in numerous channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards, fron^ hence two trips are made through a ferpentine chan- nel, fornird by the rocks, for feveral miles, when the current flackens, and is accordmgly called th^ Lake des Chats. At the channels of the grand Calumet, which are computed to be at the diftance of eighteen, miles, the current recovers its ftrength, and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which b two hundred and forty-fiye paces long ; over which the canoe and baggage are tranfported. From hence the current becomes more rapid, ..■.nd requires two trips to the Dcchargc des Sables*, where the goods are carried one hundred ai)d thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed. Then iollows the Mountain Portage, where thq canoe and lading are alfo carried three hundred and eighty- five pac(;s; then tjo the Dechargr of the Derige where the goods are carrit d two hundred and fifi/ paces i and Uiente to the Brand Caknieu/IlM^ • T\k pli'cc vvlioif t 10 f;oo(N aloiio arr cnnieil, is r;»llcd a i^/cAuwf, and llwl whe^C flOOjl I ^10 both tiuuliwicd, overland, U4icnomin«lea«A'rM^«. 'l"» f-'^''*" ''' ^y'<'"^^:'*^'' indcinoi;! jMbrtiJJxift'xiJ J. .1 I carrying" :iTO*iJV xxxii'i OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec carrying-place in this river, and is about two thoufand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or mountain. From the upper part of this Por- tage the current is fteady, and is only a branch of the Utawas Rivet', which joins the main channel, that keeps a more Southern courfe, at the diftance of twelve computed leagues. Six leagues further it forms Like Coulonge, which is about four leagues in length : from thence it proceeds through the channels of the Allumettes to the Portage, where part of the lading is taken out, and carried three hundred and forty-two paces. Then fucceeds the Portage des Allumettes, which is but twenty-five paces, over a rock difficult of accefs, and but a very fhort diftance from Lake Coulonge. From Portage de Chenes to this fpot, is a fine deer- hunting country, and the land in many parts very fit for cultivation. From hence the river fpreads wide, and is full of iflands, with fome cur- rent for feven leagues, to the beginning oi Riviere Creufe, or Deep River, which runs in the form of a canal, about a mile and an half wide, for about thirty-fix miles ; bounded upon the North by very high rocks, with low land on the South, and fandy ; it is intercepted again by falls and catarads, fo that the Portages of the two Joachins almofl join. The firik is nine hundred and twenty-fix paces, the next Icven hundred and twenty, and both very bad roads. From hence is a fteady current of nine miles to the River du Moinc, where there has goncraliy been a trad- ing lioule ; the ftream then becomes llrong for four leagues, when a rapid fucceeds, wliich requires two trips. A little wny onward is the Decharge, and clofe to it, the Portage of the Roche Capifaine, fevcn hundred and ninety-Ceven paces in length. From hence two trips are made through a narrow channel of the Roche Capitainc, made by an illand four miles in length, A ftrong current now fucceeds, for about fix leagues to xht e Portage ■y XXXIV A GENERAL HISTORY ) Portage of ihe two rivers, which is about eight hundred and t'venty paces; from thence it is three leagues to the Decharge of the Trou, which is three hundred paces. Near adjoining is the rapid of LevelHer ; from whence, including the rapids of Matawoen, where ther6 is no carrying-plaCe, it is about thirty-fix miles to the forks of the fame name; in latitude 464-. North, and longitude ySi. Well:, and is at the computed dillance of four hundred miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter comes in a North- Wellerly direflion, forming feveral lakes in its courfe. The principal of them is Lake Tcmefcamang, where diere has always been a trading poll, which may be laid to continue, by a fucceifion of rivers and lakes, upwards of lifty leagues from the Forks, palfing near the waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in latitude 48I. which is received by the Moole River, that empties itfclf into James Bay. ';ih,n-^f\'vih ' ' ,;:yi*3.;i.'?i na^H rui Mn^ lUi .V"J«7» • tU It .JlUlI M The Petite Riviere takes a South- Weft direftion, is full of rapids and catarafts to its fource, and is not more than fifteen leagues in length, in the courfe of which are the Ibllowing interruptions — The Portage of Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the Decharge of the Rofe, one hundred and forty-five paces; the Discharge of Campion, one hundied and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the Gioile Roche, one hundred and fifty paces; the Portage of Parclfeux, four hundred and two paces; the Portage of Priario, two hundred and eighty-fcven paces; the Portage of La Cave, one hundred paces; Portage of Talon, two hundred and fcvcnty-five paces; which, for its length, is the word on the communication; Portage Pin dc Mu(i(iuf, four hundred and fifty- fix pacci, where many men have been crulhed to death by the > ; 1;'' canoca, l!l OF THE FUR TRADE, ^c. XXXV is and til, ia gt* of f the n, one e, one I and paces ; , two id on lifty- tlic anoca, canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries. The lafl: in this river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on entering the lake of that name, where, indeed, the river may be faid to take its fource. From ihe firli vafe to the great river, the country has the appearance of having been over-run by fire, and confifts in general of huge rocky hills. The whole diftance which is the height of land, between the waters of the St. Laurence and the Utawas, is one thoufand five hundred and thirteen paces to a fmall canal in a plain, that is jufl fufficicnt to carry the loaded canoe about one mile to the next vafe, which is feven hundred and twenty-five paces. It would be twice this diftance, but the narrow creek is dammed in the beaver fafhion, to float the canoes to this barrier, through which they pafs, when the river is juft fuflicient to bear them through a fwamp of two miles to the laft vafe, of one thoufand and twenty-four paces in length. Though the river is increafed in this part, fome care is necelfary to avoid rocks and ftumps of trees. In about lix miles is the lake Nepifingui, which is computed to be twelve leagues long, though the route of the canoes is fomething more : it is about fif- teen miles wide in the wideft part, and bounded with rocks. Its inha- bitants confift of the remainder of a numerous converted tribe, called Ncpifinguis of the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere des Francois, over rocks of a confiderable height. In a bay to the Eaii of this, the road leads over the Portage of the Chaudiere d'.*8 Fran9ois, five hundred and forty-four paces, to flill water. It mult have acquired the name of Kettle, from a great number of holes in the folid rock of a cylindrical lorm, and not unlike that culinary utenfil. They are obferv- nble in many parts along ftrong bodies of water, and where, at certain Icalons, and diflind periods, it is well known the water inundates ; ot i... e i * ihr : i ft; *in(fl ii i ; iS^l' xxxvi A GENERAL HISTORY the bottom of them are generally found a number of fmall flones and pebbles. This circumllance juftifies the conclufion, that at fome former period thefe rocks formed the bed of a branch of the difcharge of this lake, although fome of them are upwards of ten feet above the prelen* level of the w^ater at its greateft height. They arc, indeed, to be feen in every lake and river throughout this wide extended country. The Frcncli river is very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and is fo interfperfed with illands, that in the whole courfe of it the banks are fel- dom vifible. Of its various channels, that which is generally followed by the canoes is obftrudcd by the following Portagrs, viz. des Pins, fifty-two paces; F^aufille, tliirty-fix paces; Parifienne, one hundred paces; Rccolet, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feaufillc, twenty-five paces. In fe'°ral parts there are guts or channels, where the water flows wiih great velocity, which are not more than twice the breadth of a canoe. The diUance to Lake Huron is eftimattd at twenty-five leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, that is, at the point of land three or four miles within the lake. There is hardly a foot of foil to be Icen from one end of the French river to the other, its banks confiding of hills of entire rock. The coaft oi the lake is the fame, but lower, backed at fome diftance by high hnds. 1 he courfe runs through numerous illands to the North of Well to the river Teflalon, computed to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and which I found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence crolfing, from ifland to illand, the arm of the lake that receives the water of Lake S'".perior (which continues the lame courfe), the route changes to the South of Well ten leagues to the Detour, palfing the end of the illand of St. Joleph, within fix miles of the former place. On that illand there . ' . has 1-i OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. ::.,4Vi., ,. j*, i a:", j t jiis -',''' "^-''^ ■ '!,<..; • ,'>M,.:», .'J Ji :-',*;> aU'^..vt Our commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the charafter of the reprefentatives of their father; (which parental title the natives give to his prefent Majefty, the common father of all his people) prefent them with fuch things as the a6lual ilate of their (lores will allow. 'in -.ns U I'.'i 1 1 1 How far this conduft, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep thefe people in our intercft, if they arc even worthy of it, is not an obje6l of my prefent confideration: at the fame tinie, I cannot avoid expref- fmg my perfe»'".l conviClion, that it wciild not he of the Icall advantage to our prelient or future commerce in that country, or to the people thcmlclvcs; as it only tends to keep many oi them in a liaie of idlenefs about xxxvni A GENERAL HISTORY I n about our military eftablifhments. The ammunition which they receive: is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum in return, though their families may be in a ftarving condition : hence it is, that, in confequence of flothful and diffolute lives, their numbers are in a very perceptible (late of diminution. ' • • i 1 •* ? '■ •).,;„-» oy n;. ' f> i VI : i \i From the Detour to the ifland of Michilimakinac, at the confluence of the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty- miles. To keep the direft courfe to Lake Superior, the north fhore from the river Teflalon fhould be followed ; croflRng to the North-Weft end of St. Jofeph, and paflTmg between it and the adjacent iflands, which makes a diftance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot of which, upon the South (hore, there is a village, formerly a place of great refort for the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and confequently of confi- derable trade : it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced to about thirty families, of the Algonquin nation, who are one half of the year ftarving, and the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve Ca- nadians, who have been in the Indian country from an early period of life, and intermarried with the natives who have brought them families. Their inducement to fettle there, was the great quantity of white fi(h that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble, par- ticularly in the autumn, when that lilh leaves the lakes, and comes to the running and fhallow waters to fpawn. Thcfe, when fait can be pro- cured, are pickled jufl as the froft fets in, and prove very good food with potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with fuccefs. The natives live chiefly on this fifli, which they hang up by the tails, and preli-rve throughout the winter, or at lead as long as they la(t ; for whatever quantity /vl "1 M«.': 'I •,.nif OF THE iFUR TRADE, Sec, XXXIX pro- witli quantity they may have taken, it is never known that their oeconomy is fuch as to make them laft throuofh the winter, which renders their fituation very diftreffing ; tor if they had a£liv'ity fufficient to purfue the labours of the chafe, the woods are become fo barren of game as to afford them no great profpe6l of relief. In the fpring of the year they, and the other inhabitants, make a quantity of fugar from the maple tree, which they exchange with the traders for neceffary articles, or carry it to Michilimakinac, where they expeft a better price. One of thefe traders was agent for the North-Weft Company, receiving, floring, and forwarding fuch articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their vefTels : for it is to be obferved, that a quantity of their goods are lent by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingflon, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, and from thenc«- in vefTels to Niagara, then over land ten miles to a water communication, by boats, to Lake Erie, where they are again received into vefl'els, and carried over that lake up the river Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed and carried for a mile above the falls, and fhipped over Lake Superior to the Grande Portage. This is found to be a Icfs expenfive method than by canoes, but attended with more rifk, and requiring more time, than one fliort feafon of this country will admit ; for the goods are always fent frora Montreal the preceding fall ; and befides, the company get the whole of their provifions from Detioit, as Hour and Indian corn ; as alfb confiderablc fupplies from Michilimakinac of maple fugar, tallow, gum, &c. &c. .,., .^^ ,,...^,.,^ „,j . -,i. t I For the purpofe of conveying all thcfe things, they have two vcfTcIs upon xl A GENERAL HISTORY it ;''i| /■ii upon the Lakes E^' * id Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty to feventy tons burthen. This being, therefore, the depot for tranfports, the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over Lake Superior, with only five men m each ti:e others were fent to Michilimakinac for additional canoe* ^r' . \ were required to profecute the trade, and then take a lading the? ' St. Mary's, and follow the others. At length they all arrive at the Gruv ^ Portage, which is one hundred and fixty leagues from St. Mary's, and fituated on a pleafant bay on the North fide of the lake, in latitude 48. North and longitude 90. Weft from Green- wich, where the c »mpafs has not above five degrees Eaft variation. At the entrance of the bay is an ifland which fcreens the harbour from every wind except the South. The Ihallownefs of the water, however, renders it necefl'ary for the veflel to anchor near a mile from the fhore, where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake juftifies the name that has been given to it*, the Falls of St. Mary, which is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and in longitude 84 Weft, where there is no variation of the compafs whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the River St. Louis, is in latitude 46. 45. Nortlh and longitude 92. 10. Weft: its greateft breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference, including its various bays, is not lefs than one thoufand two hundred miles. Along its North ftiore is the fafcft navigation, as it is a continued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one thoufand five hundred feet in height. There are numerous coves and landy bays to land, which are frequently ftiehtred bjr illands from the fwell of the lake. This is particularly the cafe at the diftance of one hundred miles to the Eaftward of the Grande Portage, and is called the Pays Plat. « ;V.1 Th i<; 6f the fur trade, &c. -If This feems to have been caufecl by fome convulfion of nature, "or many of the illands difplay a compofition of lava, intermixed with round ftones of the fize of a pigeon's egg. The furrounding rock is o-enerally hard, and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the appearance of iron and copper. The South fide of the lake, from Point Shagoimigo Eaft, is almoft a continual ftraight line of fandy beach, in- terlperfed with rocky precipices of lime-ftone" fometimes rifing to an hundred feet in height, without a bay. Th, ei )ankments from that point Weftward are, in general, of ftrong cl. /, mixed with ftones, which renders the navigation irkfome and dangerous. On the fame fide, at the River Tonnagan, is found a quantity of virgin copper. The Americans, foon after they got pofleflic of that country, fent an en- gineer thither; and I fhould not be furprifcd to hear of their employing people to work the mine. Indeed, it might be well worthy the attention of the Briiifli fubjefts to work the mines on the North coaft, thoucrh they are not fuppofed to be fo rich as thofe on the South. , • Lake Superior is the largefl and moft magnificent body of frcfh water in the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in a great variety of filh, which are ihe moft excellent of their kind. There are trouts o^" three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds, fturgcon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bafs, herrings, &c. &c. and the luft and beft of all, the Ticamang, or white fifh, which weighs from four to fixtcen pounds, and is of a fuperior quality in thcfe waters. This lake may be denominated the grand refervoir of the River St. Laurence, as no confiderable rivers dilcharge themlelves into it. v.il' i The xln A GENERAL HISTORY rii fi M ft m The principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them flow, or take their courle, in any direftion, cannot admit of it, in confe- quence of the ridge of land that feparates them from the rivers that empty themfelves into Hudlon's-Bay, the gulph of Mexico, and the waters that fall in Lake Michegan, which afterwards become a part of the St. Laurence. iu*i-''fm\ t». )•; :if -■■..>a.i w.-r I , ' '\) , "■\-i ^•-■■^v>.«tV»i( J I ;« '. ,-vo/'> ; This vafl; colle£lion of water is often covered with fog, particularly when the wind is from the Eaft, which, driving againfl; the high barren rocks on the North and Weft (hore, diflblves in torrents of rain. It is very generally faid, that the ftorms on this lake are denoted by a fwell on the preceding day ; but this circumftance did not appear from my obfervation to be a regular phenojcnenon, as the fwells more frequently fubfided without any fubfequent wind. U-.i W Along the furrounding rocks of this immenfe lake, evident marks appear of the decreafe of its water, by the lines obfervable along them. The fpace, however, between the higheft and the loweft, is not fo great as in the fmaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than fix feet, the former being very faint. ?*»•>.'' >j ,;!„. Jill The inhabitants that are found along the coaft of this water, are all of the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.* • '• ,1-1. . ',•-"' , ' ' ' • " ■ ^ i -" * In the year 1668, vvlicii the fiid tnifTionaries vifited the South of this lake, they found the loiintry full of inhahitants. They ichitr, that, about ilus time a band of the Nepifiiigues, who were converted, cniigraied to the Nipigon country, which is to tiie North of Lake Superior. Few of their delccndauts are now remaining, and not a trace of tlie religion communicated to them is to be .l. '.' , '. A very curious phenomenon was obferved fome years ago at the Grande Portage, for which no obvious caufe could be alTigned. The water withdrew with great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had never before been vifible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, and rufhing back with great velocity above the common mark. It con- tinued thus falling and rifing for feveral hours, gradually decreafing till it flopped at its ufual height. There is frequently ?.n irregular influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is attributed to the wind. o' i' H^ ■1 :: I :4 I {hall now leave thefe geographical notices, to give fome further account of the people from Montreal. — When they are arrived at the Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has to carry eight packages of fuch goods and provifions as are necefiary for the interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently perform in fummer, as both horfes and oxen were tried by the company without fuccefs. They are only ufeful for light, bulky articles ; or for tranfporting upon (ledges, during the winter, whatever goods may remain there, efpecially provifion, of which it is ufual to have a year's ftock on hand. .nif.;,! r .:. riif )Kr< Having finifhed this toilfome part of their duty, if more goods are ne- ceflary to be tranfported, they are allowed a Spanilh dollar for each 'i package : i!l' i OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. xlv package : and fo inured are they to this kind of labour, that I have known feme of them fet off with two packages of ninety pounds each, and return with two others of the fame weight, in the courfe of fix hours, being a diftance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains. This neceflary part of the bufinefs being over, if the feafon be early they have fome refpite, but this depends upon the time the North men begin to arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do early in July. At this period, it is neceflary to fele6l from the pork-eaters, a number of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers, fufficient to man the North canoes neceflary to carry, to the river of the rainy lake, the goods and provifion requifitc 'or the Athabafca country ; as the people of that country, (owing to the fliortnefs of the feafon and length of the road, can come no further), are equipped there, and exchange ladings with the people of whom we are fpeaking, and both return from whence they came. This voyage is performed in the courfe of a month, and they are allowed proportionable '":^es for their lervices. " . .-.,- Krf T ...A ■■,:■ l^i '. ' r/") t!»i% ■ The north men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled ■with bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and fuch as have not en- tered into agreements during the winter, which is cuftomary, are con- tra£led with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three years: their accounts are alfo fettled, and fuch as choofe to fend any of tlieir earnings to Canada, receive drafts to tranfmit to their relations or friends: and as foon as tliey can be got ready, which requires no more than a fortnight, they are again difpatched to their refpe£live depart- .'.■.,(. ments. 1l :l^l i J ' im' I ^:1| 'A xlvi A GENERAL HISTORY nents. It is, indeed, very creditable to iliern as fervants, that though they are fometimcs aflembled to the number of twelve hundred men, in- dulging lliemfelves in the free ufe of liquor, and quarrelling with each other, they always {hew the greateft refpeft to their employers, who are comparatively but few in number, and beyond the aid of any legal power to enforce due obedience. In (liort, a degree of fubordination can only be maintained by the good opinion thefe men entertain of their employers, which has been uniformly the cafe, fince the trade has been formed and conduced on a regular fyftem. '■ '' ■ The people being difpatched to their refpeftive winter quarters, the agents from Montreal, alTifted by their clerks, prepare to return there, by getting the furs acrofs the portage, and re-making them intj packaj^es of one hundred pounds weight each, to fend them to Montreal; where they commonly arrive about the month of Sep- tember. ■■■>' ' ' ': . "' " •"' ■ ■' ''' '■ •'■''■ • ' ' ' I . The mode of living at the Grande Portage, is as follows : The pro- prietors, clerks, guides, and interpreters, mefs together, to the number of fometimcs an hundred, at feveral tables, in one large hall, the pro- vifion confiHing of bread, fait pork, beef, hams, filh, and venifon, but- ter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, fpirits, wine, &c. and plenty of milk, for which purpc^le feveral milch cows arc conftantly kept. The mechanics have rations of inch provifion, but the canoe-men, both from the Noiih and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in the voyage, than Indian corn and mcllcd lat, I'he corn lor this purpofe is pre- pared OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xlvii pared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a ftrong alkali, which takf'S off the outer hufk ; it is then well wafhed, and carefully dried upon llagcs, when it is fit for ufe. One quart of this is boiled for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which, whtn it has boiled a fuiall time, are added two ounces of melted fuet ; this caufes the corn to iplit, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty thick pudding. If to this IS added a little fait, (but not before it is boiled, as it would inter- rupt the operation), it makes an wholefome, palatablg food, and eafy of digeninu. This quantity is fully fufficient for a man's lubfitlence durmg twenty-four hours; though it is not fulficicntJy heartening to fufiain the llrength necellary lor a Hate of atlive labour. The Ame- ricans call this dilh hominee*. The trade from the Grande Portage, is, in fome particulars, carried on in a (lilfeient manner with that Irom Montreal. Ihc canoes ufed in the Iatt( r tranfport are now too large for the former, and Ibme of about hall the fize arc procured trom the nati\cs, and are navigated by four, five, or fix men, according to the dillance which they have to go. 1 hey carry a lading of 'about thirty-five packages, on an average; of ihele twenty-ihiee are for the pmpofr of trade, and the refl are employed for provifions, (lores, and biiggi'ge. In each of thele canoes are a foreman and {leerfm.in ; the one to be always on the look out, and (lire6i the pafiagc of the vedrl, and the otl.er to attend the helm. 'Ihcy alfo carry her, whenever that olliee is iit-ceHiny. '1 he foreman has the command. • Com is till' iIk'.hhH |iiiiviriiin iVi.1t Ciiii bi ludcinvil, ihnui^li Ihmii tin- rxprmo nf n.\nij'oi't, tho liufhi'l I'liiU ;il>uiit iwniiy lliiUiiM\'' lUiliug, al iho Cirinik I'yittigc. A innu'ji lUily ulluuui tc »U)i'« not ox»cfil trii-j)enc(.", and ri ,vJ xlviii A GENERAL HISTORY and tlic middle- men obey both ; the latter earn only two-thirds of the wages wliich are paid the two former. Independent of thefe a conduftor or pilot is appointed to every four or fix of thefe canoes, whom th^y are all obliged to obey; and is, or at lead is intended to be, a perfon of fuperior experience, for which he is proportionably paid. p»i li .I-' Iin 'I' ' n N In thefe canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North fide of the portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconfiderable ; and after about two miles of a Wefterly courfe, is obdrufled by the Par- tridge Portage, fix hundred paces long. In the fpring this makes a con- fiderable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of one hundred and twenty feet. From thence the river continues to be fhal- low, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from being injured by iharp rocks, for a dillance of three miles and an half to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out, and carried by part of the crew, while two of them are conducing the canoe among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carrebocuf Portage, three miles and an half more, when they unload and come back two miles, and embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they alio land with the former ; all of which is carried fix hundred and eighty paces, and the canoe led up againd the rapid. From hence the water is better calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding courfe to the North of VV\:(l three miles to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe, and every thing in her, is carried for two thoiiland four hundred paces. At the further end is a very high hill to deCcend, over which hangs a rock upwards of leven hundred feet high. Then fiiccecds the Outard Lake, about fix miles long, lying in a Norih-Wefi courfe, and about two miles HW\ ^. OF THE I'UR TRADE, Sic. xlix miles 'wide in the broadeft part. After pading a very fmall rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, over which thr canoe and lading are again car- ried one thoufand one liundrcd and twenty paces ; when they enter the lake of the fame name, which is an handlbme piece of water, running North-Weil about four miles, and not more than one mile and an half wide*. Thoy then land at the Portage de Cerife, over which, and in the face of a con- lidcrable hill, the canoe and cargo are again tranfported for one thou- fand and fifty paces. This is only feparated from the fecond Portage de Cerife, by a mud-pond (where there is plenty of water lilies), of a quarter of a mile in length ; and this is again feparated by a fimilar pond, from the lad Portage de Cerife, which is four hundred and ten paces. Here the fame operation is to be performed for three hundred and eighty paces. They next enter on the Mountain Lake, running North-Wcfl by Well fix miles long, and about two miles in its grcatell breadth. In the centre of this lake, and to the right is the Old Road, by which I never paffcd; but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the road I am going to defcribc, and which is univcrfally preferred. This is lirll, the fmall new portage over which every thing is carried for fix hundred and twenty-fix paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then embarked on a narrow line of water, that meanders South-Weil about two miles and an half. It is neceflary to unload hero, for the length of the canoe, and then proceed Well half a mile, to the new Grande Portage, v.'hich is three thoufand one himdred paces in length, and over very rough ground, which requires the utmofl exertions of the men, and frequently lames ihcm: from hcnct thry approach the Rofe Lake, the portage ol ■ #t >' *«-f • • Here iv nuill rxftfllcni finiory foi while fidi, wl-.ieli mv v.Nf^uirite. that i^i ■^mm. 1?^ 1 A GENERAL HISTORY ^ I'f I. that name being oppofite to the jun6lion of the road from the Mountain Lake. They then embark on the Rofe L; ke, about one mile from the Eall end of it, and fteer Weft by South, in an oblique ccurfe, acrofs it two miles; then Weft-Norlh-Weft pafling the Petite Perche to the Mar- ten Portage three miles. In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and flime, with about three or four feet of w^ater over it; and here I fre- quently ftruck a canoe pole of twelve feet long, without meeting any other obltruftion than if the whole were water: it has, however, a peculiar fuc- tion or attra£live power, fo that it is difficult to paddle a canoe over it. There is a finall fpace along the South fhore, where the water is deep, and this effeft is not felt. In proportion to the diftance from this part, the fu6lion becomes more powerful : I have, indeed beeu told that loaded canoes have been in danger of being fwallowed up, and have only owed their prefervation to other canoes, which were lighter . I have, myfelf, found it very difficuli to get away from this attraOivc power, with fix men, and great exertion, though they did not appear to be in any danger of finking. Over againft this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South fide, called Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and feparaled from the Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud-pond, covered with white liliies. From hence the courfc is on the lake of the fame name, Well-South-Weft three miles to the height of land, where the waters of liie Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and which is one of the ^onrccs of the great St. Laurence in this direfclion. Having carried the canoe ai»'i lading over it, lix hundred and fevcnty-nine paces, they cmbttvk 'i^' 7^' ^.••-•- ^.^, « V,.>A^*- OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. li embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre*. which is in the (hape of ^v. horfe-{hoc. It is entered near the curve, and left at the extremity of the Weftern limb, through a very {hallow channel, where the canoe pafles half loaded for thirty paces with the current, which leads through the fucceeding lakes and rivers, and difembogues itfelf, by the river Nelfon, into Hudfon's-Bay. The firll of thefe is Lac de pierres a fufil, running Well-South-Weft feven miles long, and two wide, and, making an angle at North- Weft one mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and forming a fall and portage, called the Elcalier, of fifty-five paces; but from hence it is neither lake or river, but pof- fefles the chara£ler of both, and ends between large rocks, which caufe a current or rapid, falling into a lake-pond for about two miles and an half, Weft-North-Weft, to the portage of the Chcval du Bois. Here the canoe and contents are carried three hundred and eighty paces, between rocks; and within a quarter of a mile is the Portage des G'-os Pins, which is iix hundred and forty paces over an high ridge. The o.-pofuf" fide of it is waftied by a fmali lake three miles round; and th- ouire J3 through the Eaft end or fide of it, three quarters of a mile Norih-Fa'l, where there is a rapid. An irregular, meandering channel, bet . eci rocky banks, then fucceeds, for feven miles and . n half, to the Marabocuf Lake, which extends North four miles, and is three quarters of a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge, of one hundred and eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in fight, which caufcs a fall of about fevcki feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces. Il • The rout? which Vc have been travelling hitherto, leads ahjtig the high rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on iht- left. The face of tlie couiitr) offers a wild fcenc of hugr hills ami rucks, (eparaliil by IU)ny vallies, takes, and ponds. VN'horevcr thcie it the IcaQ foil, it Is wcU covered with trce!^. g « Lake M :^ :i: 1 if Hi A GFA'ERAL HISTORY Lake Saginaga takes its names from its numerous Hlands. Its greated length from Eafl to Weft is about fourteen miles, with very irregular inlets, is no where more than three miles wide, and terminates at the fmall portage of La Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a rocky, flony pafTageof one mile^ to Priarie Portage, which is very improperly named, as there is no ground about it that anfwers to that defcrip- tion, except a fmall fpot at the embarking place at the Well end : to the Eaft is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that the lading can be landed upon (lages, formed by driving piles into the mud, and rpreading branches of trees over them. The portage r^fes on a ftony ridge, over which the canoe and cargo mud be carried for fix hundred and eleven paces. This is fucceeded by an embarkation on a fmall bay, where the bottom is the fame as has been defcribed in the Weft end of Rofe Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked over it, but it docs not comprehend more than a diflance of two hundred yards. From hence the progrefs continues through irregular channels, bounded by rocks, in a Wedcrly courfe for about five miles, to the little Portage des Couteau::, of one hundred and fixty-fivc paces, and the Lac des Couteaux, running about South- Weft by Weft twelve miles, and from a quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs Eaft three miles from tht W»*ft end, where it is difcharged by a rapid river, and after runnj-^ two xnile^ Weft, it again becomes ftill water. In this river arc two tari^ing-ploce the one fifteen, and the other one hundred and ninety puccp. I'rom this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile North- Weft, leaving a narrow lake on the Eaft that runs parallel with the Lake dt's Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place, which is uftd vhcn the water in the river laft mrtuioned is loo low. The Portage OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. IHi Portage des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from whence the water fpreads irregularly between rocks, five miles North-Weft and South-Eaft to the portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty paces. Then follows the lake of that name, but I think impro- perly i'o called, as the natives name it the Lake Pafcau Minac Sagaigan, or Dry Berries. [vti-r: •? -•■("• >i','! U. (I .rnj'iR ■' tf?' .1 •» fi..;. ^\l I'-iM ,f r' ■"■-^I . <-» -1-U r- ■ ■ Before the fmall pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the Nodowafis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplifli, the deftruc- tion of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous : this was alfo a favourite part, where they made their canoes, &c. the lake abounding in fifli, the country round it being plentifully' fupplicd with various kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries of the water, covered with a variety of berries. ■, ' ; :, ,, , ;, ,;;.A;iff Tjiw I. *i\ "^iioh tiT'li 'ynul (\> : : i' ' ,:•. -f ».. ;; When the French were in pofTefrion of this country, they had feveral trading eftablithments on the iflands and banks of this lake. Since that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin nation, could hardly find fubfiftence; game having become fo fcarce, that they depended principally for food upon fifh, and wild rice which grows fpontancoully in ihefe parts. .u v.; .. tfi, ,,i ? ,• i i-. . , . This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmoft extent from Eaft to Weft is fifteen miles ; a point of land, calltd Point au Piu, jutting into it divides it in two parts : >t then makes a fecond angle at the Weft end, to the lelfer Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in length. I'lm cl.an- hel is not wide, and is ititercepted by feveral rapids in the courfe of a mile ; \' > ir ■t^4i- !■: " . ,.. J »! m liv A GENERAL HISTORY mile: it runs Weft-Ncrth-Weft to the Portage des Pins, over which the canoe and lading is again carried four hundred paces. From hence the channel is alfo intercepted by very dangerous rapids for two miles Wefterly, to the point of Portage du Bois, which is two hundred and ciphty paces. Then fuccceds the portage of Lake Croche one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed by an embarkation on ihat lake, which takes its name from its figure. It ex- tends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a weRerly direflion ; it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its length be- comes very contra6led, with a ftrong current. Within three miles of the lafl Portage is a remarkable rock, with a fmooth face, but fplit and cracked in different parts, which hang over the water. Into one of its horizontal chafms a great number of arrows have been fhot, which is faid to have been done by a war party of the Nat'-wafis or Sieux, who had done much mifchief in this country, and left thefe weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, notwithftanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inacceflible to their enemies. * '•' Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred paces long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water, falling over a rockof upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids fucceed, with intervals of Hill water, for about three miles to the Flacon portage, which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the Lake of La Croix, io named from its fliape. It runs about North- Weft eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then finks into a deep bay nearly Eaft. The courfe to the Jtli ''T^I'iJfy,,., OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Iv the Portacre is Weft by North for fixteen miles more rrom the Beaver Dam, and into the Eall bay is a road which was frequented by the French, and followed through lakes and rivers until they came to Lake Superior by the river Caminiftiquia, thirty miles Eaft of the Grand Portage. Portage la Croix is fix hundred paces long : to the next portage is a quarter of a mile, and its length is !"orty paces ; the river winding four miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs fix or feven miles North-North- Weft, and by a narrow ftrait communicates with Lake Namaycan, which takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a fall, where the natives fpear fturgeon : Its courfe is about North- North- Weft and South- South-Eaft, with a bay running Eaft, that gives it the form of a triangle : its length is about fixteen miles to the Nouvelle Portage, The difcharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one hundred and eighty paces, to which fucceeds a very fmall river, from whence there is but a ftort diftance to the next Nouvelle Portage, three hundred and twenty paces long. It is then neceflary to embark on a fwamp, or over- flowed country, where wild rice grows in great abundance. There is a channel or fmall river in the centre of this fwamp, which is kept with difficulty, and runs South and North one mile and a half, with deepening water. The courfe continues North-North-Weft one mile to the Chau- diere Portage, which is caufed by the difcharge of the waters running on the left of the road from Lake Naymaycan, which ufed to be the common route, but that which I have defcribed is the lafeft as well as fliorteft. From hence there is fomc current though the water is wide fprcad, and its coiirfc about North by Weft three miles and an half to the i^ ' J t'( Ivi A GENERAL HISTORY • \ii 'iMi:'''^ i mi lit '^Ul 3 [ i'' ^ I ' 1 1 1 i the Lac dc la Pluie, which lies nearly Eaft and Weft; from thence about fifteen miles is a narrow ftrait that divides the land into tw^o un- equal parts, from whence to its difcharge is a diftance of twenty-four miles. There is a deep bay running North-Weft on the right, that is not included, and is remarkable for furniftiing the natives with a kind of loft, red flone, of which they make their pipes ; it alfo affords an excel- lent fifliery both in the fummer and winter; and from it is an eafy, fafe, and ftiort road to the Lake du Bois, (which I fhall mention prefently) for the Indians to pafs in their fmall canoes, through a fmall lake and on a fmall river, whofe banks furnifh abundance of wild rice. The dif- charge of this lake is called Lake de la Pluie River, at whofe entrance there is a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where ti>ere had been an ex- tenfive pickettcd fort and building when poftefled by the French : the fite of it is at prefent a beautiful meadow, furrounded with groves of oaks. From hence there is a ftrong current for two miles, where the water falls ver a rock twenty feet, and, from the confequent turbulence of the water, the carrying-place, which Is three hundred and twenty paces long, derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is the prelent trading eftabliOiment, fituatcd on an high bank on the North fide of the river, in 48. s?- North latitude. ' ''' '-'■^' ''' '''^ ''''■' ' Here the people from Montreal come to mee't thofe wRo arrive from the Athabafca country, as has been already defcribed, and exchange lading with them. This is alfo the refidehce of the firft chief, or Sachem, of all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this country. He is by diftinftion called Neftam, which implies pcrfonal pre-eminence. Mere alfo the elders meet in council to treat of peace or war. ''^'•' '■'' "'" This OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ivii This is one of the fineft rivers in the North- Weft, and runs si courfe Weft and Eaft one hundred and twenty computed miles ; but in taking its courfe and diftance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are covered with a rich foil, particularly to the North, which, in many parts, are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank is not fo elevated, and difplays the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the fpruce, the alder, and various underwood. Its waters abound in fifti, particularly the fturgeon, which the natives both fpear and take with drag-nets. But notwithftanding the promife of this foil, the Indians do not attend to its cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the common procefs, and are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it from us. Though the foil at the fort is a ftiff clay, there is a garden, which, unafiifted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is tolerably produftive. > ; / , . .. • • We now proceed to mention the Lake du Bois, into which this river dif- charges itfelf in latitude 49. North, and was formejly famous for the rich- nefs of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was necef- fary to a favage life. The French had feveral fettlements in and about it; but it might be almoft concluded, that fome fatal circumftance had^ deftroyed the game, as war and the fmall pox had diminiflicd tlie inhabit- ants, it having been very unprpdudivc in animals fince the Briiifh fub- je6ls have been engaged in travelling througli it ; though it now ap- pears to be vecovenng its piillinc Ilatc, The few Indians who inhabit h it #• IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^ ^ 1.0 1.25 ut lU |2.2 p> ^^ > r. V Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WMT MAIN STRUT WIUTM.N.Y I4SI0 (7U)S73-4»03 ;\ 4^ Iviii A GENERAL HISTORY it might live very comlorlably, if they were not fo immoderately fovd of fpirituous liquors. - ', -' . i Is ¥ This lake is alfo rendered remarkable, in confequence of the Americans having named it as the fpot, from which a line of boundary, between them and Britidi America, was to run Weft, until it ftruck the MilTiflippi ; which, however, can never happen, as the North-Weft part of the Lake du Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94. 31 Weft, and the Northernmoft branch of the fource of the Mifliflippi is in lati- tude 47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. W^eft, afcertained by Mr. Thomfon, aftronomer to the North- Weft Company, who was fent ex- prcfsly for that purpofe in the fpring of 1798. He, in the fame year, de- termined the Northern bend of the Milhfoury to be in latitude 47. 32. North, and longitude 101. 25. Weft; and, according to the Indian ac- counts, it runs to the fouth of Weft, fo that if the Miflifoury were even to be confidered as the Miftiftippi, no Weftern line could ftrike it. It does not appear to me to be clearly dv^crmined what courfe the Line is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it ftrikes through the country to the Lake du Bois : were it to follow the principal waters to their fource, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River St. Louis, and follow that river to its fource ; clofe to which is the fource of the waters falling into the river of Lake la Pluie, which is a common route of the Indians to the Lake du Bois : the St. Louis paft'es within a ftiort diftance of a branch of the Miftiftippi, where it becomes na^ vigablc for canoes. This will appear more evident from confulting the OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. lix the map ; and if the navigation of the MilTidippi is confidercd as of any confequence, by this country, from that part of the globe, fuch is the neareft way to get at it. But to return to our narrative. The Lake du Bois is, as far as I could learn, nearly round, and the canoe courfe through the centre of it among a clufter of iflands, fome of which are fo extenfive that they may be taken for the main land. The reduced courfe would be nearly South and North. But following the navigating courfe, I make the diftance feventy-five miles, though in a dire6l line it would fall very fhort of that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a fmall carrying-place, when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the lake is on an ifland, and named Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North and longitude 94^. Weft, it is about fifty paces long. The lake difcharges itfelf at both ends of this ifland, and forms the River Winipic, which is a large body of water, interfperfed with numerous illands, caufing various channels and interruptions of portages and rapids. In fome parts it has the appearance of lakes, with Iteady currents ; I eftimate its winding courfe to the Dalles eight miles; to the Grand Dc- chargc twenty-five miles and an half, which is a long carrying-place for the goods ; from thence to the little Decharge one mile and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then to its galet feventy yards; two miles and three quarters to the Terre Blanche, near which is a fall of from four to five feet; three miles and an half to Por- tage dc L'Ule, where there is a trading-poll, and, about eleven miles, on the North (liorc, a trading ellablidimcnt, which is tlie road, in boats, d' ^ii .'^ ."■ h 2 . • ■ , ,' to M' V 1 1 u 'I n '1 Ix A GENERAL HISTORY M I. U 'il r ' \-i i| to Albany River, and from thence to Hudfon's Bay. There is alfo a communicaiion with Lake Superior, through what is called the Nipigan country, that enters the Lake Winipic about thirty-five leagues Eaft of the Grande Portage. In fliort, the country is lb broken by lakes and rivers, that people may find their way in canoes in any direftion they pleafe. It is now four miles to Portage de L'ifle, which is but fhort, though feveral canoes have been loft in attempting to run the rapid. From thence it is twenty-fix miles to Jacob's Falls, which arc about fifteen feet high ; and fix miles and an half to the woody point : forty yards from which is another Portage. They both form an high fall, but not perpendicular. From thence to another galet, or rocky Portage, is about two.(]Qilcs, which is one continual rapid and cafcade ; and about two miles further is the Chute a I'Efclave, which is upwards of thirty feet. The Portage is long, through a point covered with wood : it is fix miles and an half more to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From thence, on the North fide, is a fafe road, when the waters are high, through fmall rivers and lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the Pinnawas, from the man who difcovered it : to the White River, fo called from its being, for a confiderable length, a fucccflion of falls and catarafls, is twelve miles. Here are feven portages, in fo (hort a fpacc, that the whole of them are difcernible at the fame moment. From this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four miles acrofs it to the rapid. Here the Pinnawas road joins, and from thence it is two miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet one mile and an half; thence to the Por- tage of the fame name is three miles. This Portage is near half a league in length, and derives its name from a cuftom the Indians have of crown- ing Hones, laid in a circle, on the highcd rock in the portage, with wreaths, OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixi wreaths of herbage and branches. There have been examples of men taking feven packages of ninety pounds each, at one end of the por- tage, and putting them down at the other without Hopping. To- this, another fmall portage immediately fucceeds, over a rocL producing a fall. From thence to the fall of lerre Blanche is two miles and an half; to the firll portage Des Eaux qui Rcraucnt is three miles; to the next, of the fame name, is but a few yards diftant ; to the third and laA, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; and from this to the lad Portage of the river one mile and an half ; and to the eftabliCh- ment, or provifion houfe, is two miles and an half. Here alfo the French had their principal inland depot, and got their canoes made, . *j«j It is here, that the prefent traders, going to great diftances, and where provifion is difficult to procure, receive a fupply to carry them to the Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the eltabliChment to the entrance of Lake Winipic is four miles and an half, latitude 50, 37. North. The country, foil, produce, and climate, from Lake Superior to this place bear a general refemblance, with a predominance of rock and water; the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any foil it is well covered with wood, fuch as oak, elm, alh of dif- ferent kinds, maple of two kinds, pines of various defcriptlons, among which are what I call the cyprefs, with the hickor) , irun-wood. Hard, poplar, cedar, black anii white birch, Sec. &c. Vail quan- tities of wild rice are fcen throughout the country, wiiich the natives colled Ixii A GENERAL HISTORY colletl In the month of Augufl for their winter fiorcs * To the North of fifty degrees, it is hardly known, or at leaft does not come to maturity. :-':'•■ .'ii'U • yti- I I. t Lake Winipic is the great refervoir of feveral large rivers, and dif- charges itfelf by the River Nelfon into Hudfon's Bay. The firll in "otation, next to that I have juft defcribed, is the Aflitiiboin, or Red River, which, at the diftance of forty miles coaftwifc, difembogues on the South- Weft fide of the lake Winipic. It alternately receives thofe two denominations from its dividing, at the diftance of about thirty miles from the lake, into two large branches. The Eaftern branch, called the Red River, runs in a Southern direftion to near the head waters of the Miiriffippi. On this are two trading eftablilhments. The country on either fide is but partially fupplied with wood, and confifts of plains co- vered with herds of the buffalo and the elk, efpecially on the Weftern fide. On the Eaftern fide are lakes and rivers, and the whole coun- try is well wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moofe-deer, fallow-deer, &c. &c. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, arc not very numerous, and are confidered as the natives of Lake Su- perior. This country being near the Miftiffippi, is alfo inhabited by the Nadowafis, who are the natural enemies of the former ; the head of the water being the war-line, thty are in a continual ftate of hoftility ; and though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others generally out-num- ber them ; it i very probable, therefore, that if the latter continue to ven- ture out of I. .J woods, which form their only proteftion, they will foon • 'J'ljo fruits arc, ftrawbcrrici, liiutlcbcirics, pliiinl)s, and clicirii"), hiu.loiiuls, goorebcirics, cur- lanls, ralpbcirics, poiivs, &c. OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixi HI be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a finer country in the world for the refidence of uncivilifed man, than that which occupies the fpace be- tween this river and Lake Superior. It abounds in every thing neccfTary to the wants and comforts of fuch a people. Fifli, venifon, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great plenty; while, at the Hime time, their fubfilU ence requires that bodily exercife fo neceffary to health and vigour. o This great extent of country was formerly very populous, but from the information I received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does not ex- ceed three hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I faw, it ap- peared to me that the widows were more numerous than the men. The rackoon is a native of this country^ but is feldom found to the Northward of it. The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadawafis, who here go by the name of Afliniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it. It runs from off the North-North- Weft, and, in uie latitude of 51 i. Weft, and longitude 103!. rifing in the fame mountains as the river Dauphin, of which I ftiall fpeak in due order. They muft have feparated from their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in peace with the Algonquins and I^nirtencaux. ..,,, The country between this and the Red River, is ainioft a continual plain to the Miflifoury. The foil is fand and gravel, with a {light intermixture of earth, and produces a fliort grafs. Trees are very rare ; nor are there on the banks of the river fufiicient, except in particular Ipots, to build houfes and fupply lire-wood for the trading cRablinuuenls Ixiv A GENERAL HISTORY ellablifhments, of which there are four principal ones. Both thefe rivers are navigaMe for canoes to their fource, without a fall; though in fome parts there are rapids, caufed by occafional beds of iime-itone, and gravel ; but in general they a fandy bottom. - ' The Affiniboins, and fome of the Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are the principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river, occupying the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about its fource, being the Hation of the Algonquins and Knifteneaux, who have chofen it in pre- ference to their own country. They do not exceed five hundred fami- lies. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts for their allowing the divifion juft mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of this river have thole animals, which are not found in the intermediate diflri6l. They confine themfelves to hunting the buffalo, and trappmg wolvps, which cover the country. What they do not want of the Ssrmer for raiment and food, they fometimcs make into pemmican, oi pounded meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the fkins in their hair, for winter. The wolves they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat, and prepare their fkins; all wliich they bring to exchange for arms and ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles, with thofewho go to traffic in their country. • -0 ''i..; The Algonquins, and the Knlfieneaux, on the contrary, attend to the fur-hunting, fo that they acquire the additional articles of cloth, blankets, &c. but their paffion for rum often puts it out of their power to fuppiy themfelves with real neceffarics. .1,'. .-ii" The OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixv , The next river oF magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties iifelf at the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the Well ^ide of the Lake Winipic, latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its fource in the fame moun- tains as the lad-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer River, the latter palling through the lake of the fame name, as well as thi iormer, and both continuing their courfe through viie Manitoba Lake, which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin, difembogues its waters, as already defcribed, into that lake. Thefe rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, &c. the bed being generally rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the Safkatchiwine, abounds in beaver, moofe-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears, buffalos, &c. The foil is good,, and wherever any attempts have been made to raife the efcuient plants, &c. it has been found produftive. >.t,'!- ^T'st^'tr 9tit J«rtt 830.' m in ei it .v/ol "tvd ».;n.. On thefe waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin, which was eftablifhed by the French before the conquefl. Red-Deer- River, and Swixn -River Forts, with occafional detached ports from thefe. The inhabitants are the Knifteneaux, from the North of Lake Wini- pic; and Algonquins from the country between the Red River and Lake Superior; and fome from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not fixed inhabitants, their number cannot be determined: they do not, how- ever, at any time exceed two hundred warriors. In general they are good hunters. There is no other confiderable river except the Safkatchiwine, which I fhall mention prefently, that empties itielf into CJ jjnif)»or)fl juHr! \\u\ lO 'tliirf ^b'>v,v- >\ -DOn/i-j rub .; l'> lifi.'j V »'• It 'if # fi t*j' i Tholc » m ixvi A GENERAL HISTORY Thofe on the North fide are inconfiderable, owing to the comparative vicinity of the high land that feparates the waters coming this way, from thofe difcharging into Hudfon's bay. The courfe of the lake is about Weft-North- Weft, and South-South-Eaft, and the Eaft end of it is in 50. 37. North. It contra6ls at about a quarter of its length to a ftrait, in latitude 51. 45. and is no more than two miles broad, where the South fhore is gained through iflands, and croffing various bays to the Clifcharge of the Saflcatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in common with thofe of this country, is bounded on the North with banks of black and grey rock, and on the South by a low, level country, occafionally interrupted with a ridge or bank of lime-ftones, lying in ftratas, and rif- ing to the perpendicular height of from twenty to forty feet; thefe are covered with a fmall quantity of earth, forming a level furface, which bears timber, but of a moderate growth, and declines to a fwarap. Where the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the waters are withdrawn, and never rife to thofe heights which were formerly waflicd by them. ^ The inhabitants who are found along this lake, are of the Knifte- neaux and Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not fcarce, and there is fifh in great abundance. The black bafs is found there, and no further Weft ; and beyond it no maple trees are feen, either hard or foft. On entering the Safkatchiwine, in the courfe of a" few rhifes, the great rapid interrupts the pall'age. It is about three miles long. Through the ^reateft part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden, according to • the •ip'i i m^ OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixvii the flate of the waters: the canoe and its contents are then carried one thoufand one hundred paces. The channel here is near a mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverfe the river. The fouth bank is very high, rifing upwards of fifty feet, of the fame rock as feen on the South fide of the Lake Winipic, and the North is not more than a third of that height. There is an excellent fturgeon- fifliery at the foot of this cafcade, and vaft numbers of pelicans, cormo- rants, &c. frequent it, where they watch to feize the fifli that may be killed or difabled by the force of the waters. — About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again inter- rupted by the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long; and a mile and an half from thence the river is barred by a range of illands, brming rapids between them; and through thefe it is the fame diftanr the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right acrofs, ana ^iit miles in length. Then fucceeds the Grande Decharge, and feveral rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is entered through a fmall channel on the left, formed by an ifland, as going round it would occafion lofs of time. In this dif- tance banks of rocks (fuch as have already been delcribed), appear at intervals on either fide; the reft of the country is low. This is the cafe along the South bank of the lake and the iflands, while the North fide, which is very uncommon, is level throughout. This lake runs firft Weft four miles, then as much more Weft- South-Weft, acrofs a deep bay oij the right, then fix miles to the Point de Lievre, and acrofs another bay again on the right ; then North-Weft eight miles, acrofs a ftill deeper bay on the right; and feven miles parallel with the North coaft, North-North- Weft i a through ''■if^t-aitntaiiaasj/Kmrnc^ Ixviii A GENERAL HISTORY through iflands, five miles more to Fort Bourbon*, fituated on a fmall iflandj dividing this from Mud-Lake, iou^ii ..ls.- u.%&iUQii; ,^ao The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclufive of tlie bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its waters produce plenty of fi(h, pirticujarly the ilurgcon. The Mud- Lake, and the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geefe, ducks, fwans, &c. and was formerly remarkable for a v^ft number of martens, of which it cannot now boall but a very fmall proportion. ,! lij ■r f*- ' \M The Mud-Lake mull have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but the.jmmenfe quantity of earth and fand, brought down by the Safkatchi- Wine,.has filled up this part of it for a circumference whofe diameter is at lead fifteen or twenty miles : part of which fpace is Hill covered with a few feet of water, but the greateft proportion is fliaded with large trees, fuch as the liard, the fwamp-afli, and the willow. This land conlifts of many iflands, which confequently form various channels, fevcral of which arc occafionall) dry, and bearing young wood. It is, indeed, more than pro- bable that this river will, in the courfe of time, convert the whole of the Cedar Lake into a foreft. To the North-Well the cedar is not to be found. From this lake the Safkatchiwine may be confidered as navigable to near its fources in the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a carrying-place, making a great bend to Cumberland Houfe, on Sturgeon Lake. From the conilwence of. its. North, ^.n4 S.QHth t>r^nchqs it^.poMrfPi -> . ..' . I ' ■ ■' ■ "r : . ■. . ... rigjj jjj(j nv iisW 'tly i * T'"* ^'^ "^^^ * principal poll of the French, who gave it its name. ■ , , , ,,;,,;., OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. hi K is Weilcrly; fpreading itfelf, it receives feveial tributary Ilreams, and encompafiTes a large track of country, which is level, particularly along the South branch, but is little known. Beaver, and other animals, whofe furs are valuable, are amongd the inhabitants of the North- Welt branch, and the plains are covered with buffalos, wolves, and fmall foxes ; particularly about the South branch, which, however, has of late claimed fome attention, as it is now underllood, that where the plains terminate towards the rocky mountain, there is a fpace of hilly country- clothed with wood, and inhabited alfo by animals of the fur kind. This has been aftually determined to be the cafe towards the head of the North branch, where the trade has been carried to about the latitude 54 North, and longitude 114-f. Weft. The bed and banks of the latter, in fome few places, difcover a ftratum of free-ftone ; but, in general, they are compofed of earth and fand. The plains are i'and and gravel, covered with fine grafs, and mixed with a fmall quanty of vegetable earth. This is particularly obfervable along the North branch, the Weft fide of which is covered with wood, i t^d5 h-^-'-, ,1' ,,, .. .'^'There are on this river five principal fa£torics for the convenience of trade with the natives. Nepawi Houfe, South-branch Houfe, Fort- George Houfe, Fort-Auguftus Houfe, and Upper Eftablifhment. There have been many others, which, from various caufes, have been changed for thefe, while there are occafionally others depending on each of them, i] WB irt)uK*d ^iJtoH^'sdj "I0 sntt/sit &rff :,rjg v>bil flsW-Hiio'^ -'i brfB ;.SHi>n xiji nrrs cifi^^nH .'fJAv *»rv;w„i...^*, ,.: i.,«,t. ,..„ji- „vi. . .f... -, t ■j^The inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as fol- low: At vU m^ Ixx A GENERAL HISTORY ^^ At Nepawi, and South-Branch Houfe, about thirty tents of Knifte- neaux, or ninety warriors; and fixty tents of Stone-Indians, or Afliniboins, who are their neighbours, ai • are equal to two hundred men: their hunting ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them are thofe who trade at Forts George and Auguftus, and are about eighty tents or up\v'ards of Kniftcneaux : on either fide of the river, their rumber may be two hundred. In the fame country are one hundred and forty tents of Stone-Indians ; not quite half of them inhabit the Weft woody country ; th^ others never leave the plains, and their numbers cannot be lefs than four hundred and fifty men. At the Southern Head- waters of the North branch dwells a tribe called Sarfees, confifting of about thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty men, Oppofite to thofe Eallward, on die head-waters of the South Branch, are the Pica- neaux, to the number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next to them, oil the fame water, are the Blood-Indians, of the fame nation as the laft, to the number of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty men. From ihem downwards extend the Black -Feet Indians, of the fame nation as the two laft tribes : their number may be eight hundred men. Next to them, and whoexicnd to tiie confluence of the South and Nor«h branch, are the Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about fix hundred warriors. .. Of all thefc different tribes, thofe who inhabit the broken country on the North- Weft fide, and the fource of the North branch, are beavcr- himters ; the others deal in provifions, wolf, buffalo, and ibx lliins ; and many people on the South bianch do not trouble themfclvcs to come near : the I u Mt '' < .i OF TKE FUR TRADE. &c. Ixxi. the trading eftablifhmcnts. Thofe who do, choofe fuch eftablifhments as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here, are the fame people as the Stone-Indians, or Afriniboins,who inhabit the river of that name al- ready defcribed, and both are detached tribes from the Nadawafis, who in- habit the Weflern fide of the MifTiflippi, and lower part of theMiffifoury, The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are from the South-Eaftward alfo, and of a people who inhabit the plains from the North bend of the laft men- tioned river, latitude 47. 32. North, longitude loi. 25. Weft, to the South bend of the Affiniboin River, to the number of feven hundred men. Some of them occafionally come to the latter river to exchange dreffed buffalo robes, and bad wolf-fkins for articles of no great value. . . , . 7ii: <{;u#it The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a diftinfl people, fpeak a language of their own, and, I have reafon to think, are travel- ling North-Weflward, as well as the others juft mentioned: nor have I heard of any Indians with whofe language, that which they fpeak has any affinity. They aro the people who deal in hories and take them upon the war-parties towards Mexico ; from which, it is evident, that the country to the South-Eaft of them, confifls of plains, as thofe animals could not well be conduced through an hilly and woody coun- try, interfedcd by waters. * " ' '»' ' '^*' The Sarfees, who arc but few in number, appear from their Ian- guago, to come on the contrary from the North-Wcftward, and are of the fame people as the Rocky- Mountain Indians defcribed in my •40i!i, ,, -..■;.'.'■--:'' ' ' " ' ■ ' ■" ' ■ Ibcond : - '■ .. ..- -^"-'■fg|IHM»lMil.,i ;i" Ixxii A GENERAL HISTORY ^O fecond journal, who are a tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the Knifleneaux, there is no queftion of their having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this country, from the Eaftward. Formerly, they ftruck; terror into all the other tribes whom they met; but now they have loft, the refpeft that was paid them ; as thofe whom they formerly confidered as barbarians, are now their allies, and confequently become better ac- quainted with them, and have acquired the ufe of (ire-arms. The former are flill proud without power, and affeft to confider the others as their inferiors : thofe confequently arc extremely jealous of them, and, depending upon their own fuperiority in numbers, will not fubmit m tamely to their infults ; fo that the confequenccs often prove fatal, and the Knideneaux are thereby decrcafing both in power and number :' fpirituous liquors alfo tend to their diminution, as they are inlligatcd thereby to engage in quarrels which frequently have the mod difuftrous termination among themfelves. ; ^ijim ,riv/o vnll io >T^sj;',i.ffiI xi -4uyql ':••■•' •:■ • . ''"iv-" •; -vrn ^i''- -'ril'.) ■".': -" Ty'.' ;■■ '^^•^r:"^' '■'*'!' 'tUr'/ '-"M The Stone-Indians muft. not be confidered in the fame point of view refpcfting the Kniflcncaux, for they have been generally obliged, from various caufes, to court their alliance. They, however,, a,re not without their difagrccments, and it is fometinics very dififictjlt to compofe their differences. Thcfc quarrels occafionally take place with the traders, and fonictimcs have a tragical conclulion. They gene- rally originate in eoniequcnce of Healing women and horfes : they have great numbers] of the lalter throughout their plains, whicU qre brought, as has been obferved, from the Spanilh fettlements in Mexico; and many of them have been f " r'", * But to return to the route by which the progrefs Weft and North is made through this continent. t ; . , k We leave the Safkatchiwine * by entering the river which forms the difcharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whofe Eaft bank is fituated Cumber- land houfe, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 102. 15. The diftance between the entrance of the lake and Cumberland houfe is eftifnated at twenty miles. It is very evident that the mud which is carried down by . . .. ; v; 1/ ■■A * It may ba proper to oblcj ve, that the French had two reltlomenti upon tljc Safkatchiwine, long htforc, and at the coiKjiieft of Canada ; the Hr(l at the Talquia, mar Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, whore flu-y had aj^ricultiiril inllniments and wheel carrinijis, marks of both being found tibout thole cftablilhmcnts, wi»ctc the ioii is exicUciit. k the n Ixxiv A GENERAL HISTORV^ f^ ■J If <'> the Salkatchiwine Ri\'Ci-, has formed the land that lies between it and the lake, for the diftance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the river, which is inundated during one half of the lUmmer, though covered with wood. This lake forms an irregular horfe-flioe, one fide of which runs to the North-Welt, and bears the name of Pine-Ifland Lake, and the other known by the name already mentioned, runs to the EaO of North, and is the largefl : its length is about twenty-feven miles, and its grcatefl breadth about fix miles. The North fide of the latter is the fame kind of rock as that defcribed in Lake Winipic, on the Weft fliore. In lati- tt'«de 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon- Weir River difcharges itfelf into this lake, and its bed appears to be of the fame kind of rock, and is almoft a continual rapid. Its dire61 courf^^ is about Weft by North, and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It takes its waters into the Beaver Lake, the South- Weft fide of which confifts of the fame rock lying in thin ftratas : the route then proceeds from ifland to ifland for about twelve miles, and along the North fhore, for four miles more, the whole being a North-Weft courfe to the entrance of a river, in latitude 54. 32. North. The lake, for this diftance, is about four or five miles wide, and abounds with fifti common to the country. The part of it upon the right of that which has been defcribed, appears more confiderablc. The iflands are rocky, and the lake itfelf furrounded by rocks. The communication from hence to die Boulcau Lake, alternately narrows into rivers and fprcads into fniail lakes; The interruptions are, the Pente Portage, which is fucceeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a Dccharge, the Carp Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude 54. 50. North, in- cluding a diftance, together with the windings, of thirty-four miles, in a WcOcrly dircftion. Ihc Lake dc Uouleau then follows. This lake OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxv lake might with greater propriety, be denominated a canal, as it- is not more than a mile in breadth. Its courle is rather to the Eall of North for twelve miles to Portage de L'Ifle. From thence there is ftill water to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapic]. The diftance is not more than four miles Wefterly. After croffing- this Portage, it is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which * is in latitude 5^. 7. North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its" breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It is only feparated from- Lake du Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a fliort, narrow, and fmall ftrait. That lake is not more than feven miles long, and its courfe' about North- Weft. The Lake des Bois then fucceeds, the paflage to' which is through fmall lakes, feparated by falls and rapids. The ■ firft is i D^charge: then follow the three galets, in immediate fuc-- celTion. From hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles.' Its courfe is South-South-Eaft, and North- North-Weft, and is full of- iflands. The paflage continues through an intricate, narrow, winding, and ftiallo^" channel for eight miles. The interruptions in this diftance are frequent, but depend much on the fta^ of the waters. Having pafled them, it is neceffary to crofs the i"'ortage de Traite, . ., as it is». called by the Indians, Athiquifipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the Stretched Frog-Skin, to the Miflinipi. Tiic waters already defcribcd • dilcharge themfelves into Lake Winipic, and augment thofe of the river Nelfon. Thefe which we are now entering are called tlic Miflinipi, or great Churchill River. » m All the country to the South and Eafl of this, within the line of ihcr progrels that has been defcribcd, is intcMlperrcd by lakes, hills, and! rivers, and is lull of animals, ofihe fur-kind, as well as t)ie moolc-dccr»» k'2 Its >^> ''.. WfiVl M GENERAL HISTORY. I(^ inJialititan^s .^re the Kniileneaux Indians, who are called by the ier* \^UUs,of the Hudfon's-Bay Company, at York, their home-guards; 1 !!, Tbe traders from Canada fucceeded for feveral years in getting the . Uilgffft proportion of their fur?, till the year 1793, when the fervants of tlMMIf compaijuy. thought proper to fend people amongfl: them, (and why they.d^id not doit before is bell known to themfelves), for the purpofe of;trade)and fecu ring their credits, which the Indians were apt to forget.; SrofjOithe fbort diflance they had to come, and the quantity of goods th^yifupplied^fthe trade has, in a great meafure, reverted to them, as the iQfir^hants fi>Qm Canada could n,ot meet them upon equal terms. What ad4vhich is named the Rapid qui ne parle point, or that never fpeaks, from its filent whirlpool-motion. In fome of the whirlpools the fuftion is fo powerful, that they are carefully avoided. At fome dif- tance from the filent rapid, is a narrow ftrait, where the Indians have painted red figures on the face of a rock, and where it was their cuftom formerly to make an offering of fome of the articles which they had with them, in their way to and from Churchill. The courfe in this lake, which is very meandering, may be eflimated at thirty-eight miles, and is terminated by the Portage du Canot Tourner, from the danger to which thofe are fubjeft who venture to run this rapid. From thence a river of one mile and an half North- Weft courfe leads to the Portage de Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des Epingles, lb called from the {harpnefs of its ftones. Then follows the Lake des Souris, the direc- tion aprofs which is amongft iflands, North-Weft by Weft fix miles. In* this traverfe is an ifliind, which is remarkable for a very large ftonc, in the form of a bear, on which the natives have painted the head and J fnout .''■j;V' ... I OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. Ixxix fnout of that animal; and here they alfo were formerly accuftomed to offer facrifices. This lake is feparated only by a narrow ftrait from the Lake du, Serpent, which runs North-North-Weft feven miles, to a nar- row channel, that conne£ls it with another lake, bearing the fame name, and running the fame courfe for eleven miles, when the rapid of the fame d^^noinin^tion is entered on the Weft fide of the lake. It is to be remarked here, that for about three or four miles on the North-Weft fide of this lake, there is an high bank of clay and fand, clothed with cyptefs trees, a circumftance which is not obfervable on any lakes hitherto mentioned, as they are bounded, particularly on the North, by black and grey rocks. It may alfo be conhdercd as a moft extraordinary circumftance, that the Chepewyans, go North- Weft from hence to the barren grounds, which are their own country, without the afliftance of canoes ; as it is well known that in every other part which has been defcribed, from Cumber- land Houfe, the country is broken on either fide of the direftion to a great extent : fo that a traveller could not go at right angles with any of the waters already mentioned, without meeting with others in every eight or ten miles. This will alio be found to be very much the cafe in proceeding to Portage la Loche. ;,o.,; ■^^....^. i;. j n«,The laft mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, Nonh-Weft by Weft; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are fuffi- cient to drag and fet the canoe againft the current. Lake Croche is then croftid in a Wefterly dire6lion of fix miles, though its whole lentrth may be twice that diftance; after which it contrails to a river that runs Wefterly for ten miles, when it forms a bend, which is left to the '■ South ll ' m 1 rlXXX A GENERAL HISTORY South, and entering a portion of :rs called the Grafs River, whofe .meandering, courfe is about fix miles, but in a dire£l line not more than half that length, where it receives its waters from the great river, which then runs Wefterly eleven miles before it forms the Knee Lake, whofe direftion is to the North of Weft. It is full of iflands for eighteen miles, and its greateft apparent breadth is not more than five miles. The portage of ;the fame name is feveral hundred yards long, and over large fiones. Its latitude is 55. 50. and longitude 106. 30. Two miles further North is the comipencement of the Croche Rapid, which is a fucceflion of caf- cades for about three miles, making a bend due South to the Lake ,du Primeau, whofe courfe is various, and through iflands, to the dif- tance of about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake are low, ftony, and marfliy, whofe grafs and ruflies, afford flielter and food to great numbers of wild fowl. At its Weftern extremity is Portage la Puife, from whence the river takes a meandering courfe, widening and con- tra6ling at intervals, and is much interrupted by rapids. After a Wefterly courfe of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From hence, in the courle of feven miles, are three rapids, to which fucceeds the Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in circumference. Then Shagoina ftrait and rapid lead into the Lake of Ifle a la Croife, in which the courfe is South twenty miles, and South-South- Weft fourteen miles, to the Point au Sable; oppofite to which is the difcharge of the Beaver-River; bearing South fix miles : the lake in the diftance run, does not exceed twelve miles in its greateft breadth. It now turns Weft- South- Weft, th^. ifle a la Croife being on the South, and the main land on the North; and it clears the one and the other in the diftance of three miles, the water prelenting an open horizon to right and left: that on the left formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues in OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxxi in depth ; and that to the right by what is called la Riviere Creufe, or Deep River, being a canal of ftill water, which is here four miles wide. On following the laft courfe, Ifle a laCrofle Fort appears on a low ifthmus, at the diftanceof five miles, and is in latitude ^5. 25. North, and longitude 107. 48. Weft. This lake and fort take their names from the ifland juft mentioned, which, as has been already obferved, received it denomination from the game of the crofs, which forms a principal amufement among the natives. The fituation of this lake, the abundance of the fineft fifti in the world to be found in its waters, the richnefs of its furrounding banks and forefts, in moofe and fallow deer, with the vaft numbers of the fmaller tribes of animals, whofe fkins are precious, and the numerous flocks of wild fowl that frequent it in the fpring and fall, make it a moft defir- able fpot for the conftant refidence of fome, and the occafional rendez- vous of others of the inhabitants of the country, particularly of the Knifteneaux* ■;ii Who the original people were that were driven from it, wlien con- quered by the Knifteneaux is not now known, as not a fingle vellige re- mains of them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that have been known here; and it is evident that the laft-mentioned confider thcmfelves as ftrangers, and feldom remain longer than three or four years, wit'-iout viliting their relations and friends in the barren grounds, which they tr^m their native country. They were for fomctime treated by 11, I w I the Ixxxii A GENERAL HISTORY the Kniftcncaux 05 enemies; who now allow them to hunt to the North of the track which has been defcribed, from Fort du Traite up- wards, but when they occafionally meet them, they infifl; on contribu- tions, and frequently punifh refiflance with their arms. This is fometimes done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it appears to be a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expefted on the occafior , which the Chepewyans on no other account ever purchafe; and thofe only who have had fre- quent intercourfe with the Knilleneaux have any inclination to drink it. When the Europeans firfl penetrated into this country, in 1777, the people of both tribes were numerous, but the fmall pox was fatal to them all, fo that there does not exift of the one, at prefent, more than forty re- fident families; and the other has been from about thirty to two hun- dred families. Thefe numbers are applicable to the conftant and lefs ambi- tious inhabitants, who are fatisfied with the quiet pofreDTion of a country affording, without rifk or much trouble, every thing neceflary to their comfort ; for fince traders have fpread themfelves over it, it is no more the rendezvous of the errant Knifteneaux, part of whom ufed annually to re- turn thither from the country of the Beaver River, which they had ex- plored to its fource in their war and hunting excuriions and as far as the Safkatchiwine, where they fometimes met people of their own nation, who had profecuted fimilar conquefls up that river. In that country they found abundance of fifhand animals, fuchas have been already defcribed, with the addition of the buffalos, who range in the partial patches of meadow fcattered along the rivers and lakes. From thence they re- turned in the fpringto the friends whom they had left; and, at the fame V ' , time OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxxiii lime met ^vith others who had penetrated, with the fame defigns, into the Athabafca country, which will be dcfcribed hereafter. The fpring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was occupied in feafting, dancing, and other paltimes, which were occa- fionally fufpended for facrifice, and rehgious folemnity : while the nar- ratives of their travels, and the hiflory of their wars, amufed and animated the feftival. The time of rejoicing- was but Ihort, and was foon inter- rupted by the neceffary preparations for their annual journey to Churchill, to exchange their furs for fuch European articles as were now become neceffary to them. The fhortnefs of the leafons, and the great length of their way requiring the utmoll difpatch, the moft aftive men of the tribe, with their youngeft women, and a few of their children undertook the voyage, under the direftion of fome of their chiefs, following the waters already defcribed, to their difcharge at Churchill Faflory, which are called, as has already been obferved, the Miffmipi, or Great Waters. There they remained no longer than was fufficient to barter their commodities, with a fupernumerary, and a day or two to gratify them- felves with the indulgence of fpirituous liquors. At the fame time the inconfiderable quantity they could purchafe to carry away with them, for a regale with their friends, was held facred, and r'-^erved to heighten the enjoyment of their return home, when the amufements, feftivity, and religious folemnities of the fpring were repeated. The ufual time appropriated to thefe convivialities being completed, they feparated, to purfue their different objefts; and if they were determined to go to war, they made the neceffary arrangements for their future operations. 1 2 But Ixxxiv A GENERAL HISTORY But we rnufl now renew the progiefs of the route. It is not more than two miles from Ille a la Croire Fort, to a point of land which forms a cheek of that part of the lalie called the Riviere Creufe, which preferves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles; then contracts to about two, for the diftance of ten miles more, when it opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open horizon, keeping the Well: fliore for fix miles. The whole of the dillance men- tioned is about North-Wefl, when, by a narrow, crooked channel, turn- ing to the South of Weft, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf, which is contra6led near the middle, by a projetHng fandy point; independent of which it may be defcribed as from fix to twelve miles in breadth, thirty- fix miles long, and in a North-Weft dire6Hon. At the North- Weft end, in latitude i^G. 8. it receives the waters of the river la Loche, which^ in the fall of the year, is very fhallov/, and navigated with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not fufficient to form ftrong rapids, though from its rocky bottom the canoes are frequently in con- fidcrable danger. Including its meanders, the courfe of this river may be computed at twenty-four miles, and receives its firft waters from the lake of the fame name, which is about twenty miles long, and fix wide; into which a fmall river flows, fufficient to bear loaded canoes, for about a mile and an half, where the navigation ceales; and the canoes^ with their lading, are carried over the Portage la Loche for thirieea miles. . . ,, . This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which aifcharge them- fclves into Hudfon's Bay, from thofe that flow into the Northern ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 2c. and longitude 109. 15. Weft. It runs South Weft j'>«.> XV OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixx Weft until it lofes its local height between the Safl^atchiwine and Elk Rivers; clofe on the bank of the former, in latitude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. Weft, it may be traced in an Eaflerly dire6lion toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude 1034-. Weft, when it appears to take its courfe due North, and may probably reach the Frozen Seas. From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes difplay a fmaller portion of folid rock. The land is low and ftony, intermixed with a light, fandy foil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver River is of a more produ£live quality : but no part of it has ever been cultivated by the natives or Europeans, except a fmall garden at the Hie a la Crofle, which well repaid the labour beftowed upon it. ■/• iT The Portage la Loche is of a level furface, in fome parts abounding with ftones, but in general it is an entire fand, and covered with the cyprefs, the pine, the fpruce fir, and other trees natural to its foil. With- in three miles of the North- Weft termination, there is a fmall round lake, whofe diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a trif- ling rcfpite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile of the termina- tion of the Portage is a very lleep precipice, whofe afcent and dcl'ccnt appears to be equally impraQicable in any way, as it confifls of a fucccf- fion of eight hills, fome of which are almoft perpendicular; ncverthclcfs, the Canadians contrive to furmount all thefe difhcultics, even with their canoes and lading. , This precipice, which rifes upwards of a thoufand feet above the plain beneath it, commands a moft cxtcnfivc, romantic, and ravifhing profpcd. s' ' > From Ixxxvi A GENERAL HISTORY '! From thence the eye looks down on the couiTe of the liiilc river, by fome called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and Pelican river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, which is at once refre(hed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, difplaying a moll delightful intermixture of wood and lawn, and flrctchingontill the blue mift obfcurcs the profpe6l. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with llately forefts, relieved by promontories of the fincft verdure, where the elk and buflalo find pafture. Thefe are contratted by fpots where fire has de- flroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. Nor, when I beheld this wonderful difplay of uncultivated nature, was the moving fcenery of human occupation wanting to complete the pi6lure. From this elevated fituation, I beheld my people, diminilhed, as it were, to half their fiijc, employed in pitching their tents in a charming meadow, and among the canoes, which, being turned upon their fides, prefented th( ir reddened bottoms in contraft with the furrounding verdure. At the fame lime, the procels of gumming them produced numerous fmall fpires of fmoke, which, as they role, enlivened the fcene, and at length blended with the larger columns that aftonded from the fires where the fuppers were pre- paring. It was in the month of September when I enjoyed a fcene, of which I do not prcfume to give an adequate del'cription ; and as it was the rutting feafon of the elk, the whillling of that animal was heard in all the variety which the echoes could afford it. ^■•^ This river, which waters and reflefls fuch enchanting fcenery, runs, including its windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it difcharges itlclfin the Elk River, according to t!ic denomination of the natives, but commonly OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Ixxxvii commonly called by the white people, the Athabafca River, in latitude q6. 42. North. At a fmall diftance from Portage la Loche, fevcral carrying-places in- terrupt the navigation of the river ; about the middle of which are fome mineral fprings, whofe margins are covered with fulphureous incrufta- tions. At the jun6lion or fork, the Elk River is about three quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs in a flcady current, fometimes contrafting, but never incrcafing its channel, till, after receiving feveral fmall flreams, it difcharges itfclf into the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles from the Fork, are fome bitumenous foun- tains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may be inferted without the leafl refiftance. The bitumen is in a fluid flate, and when mixed with gum, or the refmous fubltance colle6led from the fpruce fir, ferves to gum the canoes. In its heated flate it emits a fmell like that of fea-coal. The banks of the river, which are there very elevated, difcover veins of the fame bitumenous quality. At a fmall diflance from the Fork, houfes have been erefled for the convenience of trading with a party of the Kniflcneaux, who vifit the adjacent country for the purpofc of hunting. ■i At the diflance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old Efla- blifliracnt, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part ol ilic world, till the year 1785. In the year 1788, it was transferred to the Lake of the Hills, and formed on a point on .ts Southern fide, at about eight miles from the difcharge of the river, it was named Fort Chcpewyan, and is in latitude r^, 38. North, longitude no. 26. Wcfl, and much n h \i\ IxxxviH A GENERAL HISTORY better fituated for trade and fifliing, as the people here have recourfc to water for their lupport. , / '"^ ; .<.^ This being the place which I made my head-quarters for eight years, and from whence I took my departure, on botl\ my expeditions, I fhall give feme account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there, and other circumftances conne6led with it. > ; j a ./;■: ; . .. [ .•ill. ^ r !'■• 1* si The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the firfl of Auguft, do not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of Oftober, when a neceflary proportion of them is difpatched up the Peace River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians. Others are fent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic with the inhabitants of that country. A fmall part of them, if not left at the Fork of the Elk River, return thither for the Knilleneaux, while the reft of the people and merchandife remain here to carry on trade with the Chepewyans. Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any provifion for their ludrnance; for whatever quantity might have been obtaiuc^ from tiie natives during the fummer, it could not be more than fufhcient for the people difpatched to their different pwils ; and even if there were a cafiinl fupcrfluity, it was ablblutely neceflary to preferve it untouched, for the demands of the fpring. The whole de- pendance, therefore, of thofe who remained, was on tiie lake, and filhing implements for the means of our fupport. The nets are fixty fathom in length, when fet, and contain (ificen medics of five inches in dt'plh. The manner of ufing them is as follows : A fmull llouc and wooden I buoy OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. IxxxiJt buoy are faftened to the fide-line oppofite to each other, at about the dif* tance of two fathoms : when the net is carefully thrown into the water, the flone finks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its full ex- ' tent, and it is fecured in its fituation by a (lone at either end. The nets are vifited every day, and taken out every other day to be cleaned and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters are not frozen, but when the frofl has fet in, and the ice has acquired its greateft thicknefs, which is fometimes as much as five feet, holes are cut in it at' the diftance of thirty feet from each other, to the full length of the net ; one of them is larger than the reft, being generally abc . t four feet fquare, and is called the bafon : by means of them, and poles of a propor- tionable length, the nets are placed in and drawn out of the water. The fetting of hooks and lines is fo fimple an employment as to render a defcription unneceffary. The white fifh are the principal obje6l of purfuit: they fpawn in the fall of the year, and, at about the fetting in of the hard froft, crowd in fhoals to the (hallow Water, when as many as poftible are taken, in order that a portion of them may be laid by in the froft to provide againft the fcarcity of winter ; as, during that feafon, the fi(h of every defcription decreafe in the lakes, if they do not altogether difappear. Some have fuppoled that during this period they are ftation- ary, or affume an inaflive ftate. If there ftiould be any intervals of warm weather during the fall, it is necefl'ary to fufpend the 'ifti by the tail, though they are not fo good as thofc which are altogether preferved by the froft. In this ftatc they remain to the beginning of April, when they have been found as fweel as when they were caught.* • This fidifry requires the moO unreniiliiiif^ slicntion, as the voyaj^ini; Ciiiadmns arc equally in- dolent, cxtrnvagaut, and iniprovultiit, when left t« thenilelvcs, and rivil the lavage* iu a neglctl of the motvow. ' ' ' ^ . ,. m ' Thu» Ul m !| if '1 A GENERAL HISTORY Thus do thefe voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fifh, with- out even the quickening flavour of fait, or the variety of any farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not rendered it unnecefTary, might be obtained in this country to the Weftward of the Peace River, where it lofes its name in that of the Slave River, from the numerous falt-ponds and fprings to be found there, which will fupply ia any quantity, in a ftate of concretion, and perfeftly white and clean,. When the Indians pafs that way they bring a fmall quantity to the fort^ with other articles of traffic. During a fhort period of the fpring and fall, great numbers of wild fowl frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after fuch a long privation of flefli-meat. It is remarkable, however, that the Ca- nadians who frequent the Peace, Safkatchiwine, and Affiniboin rivers, and live altogether on venifon, have a lefs healthy appearance than thofe whofe fuftenance is obtained from the waters. At the fame time the fcurvy is wholly unknown among them. s ' In the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, where they barter the furs or provifions which they may have procured : they then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and do not return till the beginning of the year ; when they are again fitted out in the fame manner and come back the latter end of March, or the beginrnng of April. They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver hunt until the waters are clear of ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, which the Chepewyans are averfe to employ. The major part of the latter return to the barren grounds, and live during the fummer with their relations OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xci relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is derived from numerous herds of deer. But thofe of that tribe who are moft partial to thefe defarts, cannot remain there in winter, and they are obliged, with the deer, to take fhelter in the woods during that rigorous feafon, when they contrive to kill a few beavers, and fend them by young men, to exchange for iron utenfils and ammunition. . Till the year 1782, the people of Athabafca fent or carried their furs regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudfon's Bay ; and fome of them have, fince that time, repaired thither, notwithflanding they could have provided themfclves with all the neceflkries which they required. The difference of the price fet on goods here and at that fa6lory, made it an objeft . with the Chepewyans, to undertake a journey of five or fix months, in the courfe of which they were reduced to the moft painful extremities, and often loft their lives from hunger and fatigue. At prefent, however, this traffic is in a great meafure difcontinued, as they were obliged to expend in the courfe of their journey, ti .;t very ammunition which was its moft alluring objeft. - , > „ \ Some Account of the Knisteneaux Indians. •f THESE people are fprcad over a vaft extent of country. Their language is the fame as that of the people who inhabit the coaft of : ■ m 2 - Britifh i t I I'i f ! ?1 xcu A GENERAL HISTORY Britifti America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Efqui- maux*, and continues along the Coaft of Labrador, and the gulph and banks of St. Laurence to Montreal. The line then follows the Utawas river to itsfource; and continues from thence nearly Weft along the high lands which divide the waters that fall into Lake Superior and Hudfon s Bay. It then proceeds till it Ilrikes the middle part of the river Winipic, following that water through the Lake Winipic, -to the difcharge of the Safkatchiwine into it; from thence it accompanies the latter to Fort George, when the line, ftriking by the head of the Beaver River to the Elk River, runs along its banks to its du- charge in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried back Eaft, to the Ifle a la Crofie, and lb on to Churchill by the Miffinipi. The whole of the traft between this line and Hudfon's Bay and Straits, (except that of the Efquimaux in the latter), may be faid to be exclufively the country of the Knifteneaux. Some of them, indeed, have penetrated further Weft and South to the Red River, to the South of Lake Winipic, and the South branch of the Safltatchiwine. ^ i' They are of a moderate ftature, well proportioned, and of gi^eat aftivity. Examples of deformity are feldom to be feen among them» Their complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair black, which is common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in vari- ous forms, according to the fancy of the feveral tribes, and by fome is • The fimilarity between their language, and that of the Algonquins, is an unequiv that tlicy are the fame people. Specimens of their rcfpeftivc tongues will be hereafter given. proof left OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec. XCIU left in the long, lank, flow of nature. They very generally extrafl their beards, and both fexes manifefl a difpofition to pluck the hair from every part of the body and limbs. Their eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; their countenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal objefl of their vanity to give every poffible decoration to their perfons, A material article in their toilettes is vermilion, which they contraft with their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is frequently added. '" -^ -c:;!:/;: ?. • , ■ i^ : ■ - iroof left Their drefs is at once fimple and commodious. It confifts of tight leggins, reaching near the hip : a ftrip of cloth or leather, called aflian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whofe ends are drawn inwards and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the ' waift for that purpofe : a clofe veil or fhirf reaching down to the former garment, and cinftured with a broad ftrip of parchment fattened with thongs behind; and a cap for the head, confifting of a piece of • fur, or fmall (kin, with the brufli of the animal as a fufpended orna- ment : a kind of robe is thrown occafionally over the whole of the ■ drefs, and ferves both night and day. Thele articles, mth the ad- ■< diiion of fhoes and mittens, conftitute the variety of their apparel. The materials vary according to the feafon, and confift of dreffed ' moofe-fkin, beaver prepared with the fur, or European woollens. - The leather is n°atly painted, and fancifully worked in fome parts with ' porcupine quills, and moofe-deer hair: the fliirts and Icggins are alfo ' adorned with fringe and tall'els; nor are the fhoes and mittens with- f out fomewhat of appropriate decoration, and worked with a con- '<■' fiderable degree of (kill and taUe. Thel'e habilimenis are put on, how- .- • . . • ever, XCIV A GENERAL HISTORY Ir^ ever, as fancy or convenience fuggefts; and they will fometimes proceed to the chafe in the fevered froft, covered only with the flighteft of them. Their head-dreffes are compofed of the feathers of the fwan, the eagle, and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of different animals, are alfo the occafional ornaments of the head and neck. Their hair, however arranged, is always befmeared with greale. The making of every article of drels is a female occupation ; and the women, though by no means inattentive to the decoration of their own per- fons,' appear to have a ftill greater degree of pride in attending to the appearance of the men, whofe faces are painted with mere care than thofe of the women. . , . , ,, ,, , . i. ,.,,,, : :m,:. ^,'H^ ?: '^^£ ,!. ' The female drefs is formed of the fame materials as thofe of the other fex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their fhoes are commonly plain, and their leggins gartered beneath the knee. The coat, or body covermg, falls down to the middle of the leg, and is faflened over the flioulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches, both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with quill-work and fringe ; th^ bottom is alfo Tringed, and fancifully painted as high as the knee. As it is very loofe, it is enclofed round the waift with a flift' belt, decorated with taffels, and faftened behind. The arms are covered to the wrifl, with detached fleeves, which are fewed as far as the bend of the arm; from thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the cor- ners of them fall down behind, as low as the waift. The cap, when they wear one, confifts of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, fewed at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down , . . i ' the OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xcv the back, is faftened to the beh, as well as under the chin. The upper garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is di- vided on the crown, and tied behind, or fometimes faftened in large knots, over the ears. They are fond of European articles, and prefer thei» to their own native commodities. Their ornaments confift in common with all favages, in bracelets, rings, and fimilar baubles. Some of the women tatoo three perpendicular lines, which are fometimes double : one from the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on either fide to the corner of the mouth ► Of all the nations which I have feen on this continent, the Knifte- neaux women are the moft comely. Their figure is generally well pro- portioned, and the regularity of their features would be acknowledged by the more civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has lefs of that dark tinge which is common to thofe favages who have lefs cleanly habits. «',Hr" ■•J. ' Thefe people are, in general, fubjeft to few diforders. The lues venerea, however, is a common complaint, but cured by the applica- tion of fimples, with whofe virtues they appear to be well ac4uaint- ed. They are alfo fubjeft to fluxes, and pains in the breaft, which feme have attributed to the very cold and keen air which they inhale; but I fliould imagine that thefe complaints muft frequently proceed from their immoderate indulgence in fat meat at their feafts, particularly when they have been preceded by long falling. They are naturally mild and affable, as well as juft in their deal- ingSs XCVl A GENERAL HISTORY ' %i J ■• ings, not only among themfelves, but with flrangers*. They are alfo generous and hofpitable, and good-natured in the extreme, except when their nature is perverted by the inflammatory influence of fpirituous liquors. To their children they are indulgent to a fault. The father, though he aflumes no command over them, is ever anxious to in- firuft them in all the preparatory qualifications for war and hunt- ing; while the mother is equally attentive to her daughters in teaching them every thing that is confidered as neceflary to their character and fituation. It does not appear that the huflaand makes any diftinftion between the children of his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers. Illegitimacy is only attached to thofe who are born before their mothers have cohabited with any man by the title of hufband. '':'i-.-.( It does not appear, that chnfl.ity is confidi^rv^d by them as a virtue ; or that fidelity is believed to be eflential to the happinefs of wedded life. Though it fometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is puniflied by the hufband with the lofs if her hair, nofe, and perhaps life; fuch feverity proceeds from its having been praflifed without his permiflTion : for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon ; and the offer of their perfons is confidered as a neceflary part of the hofpitality due to flrangers. Wh'^n a man lofes his wife, it is confidered as a duty to marry her ♦ They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with juflice he attributed to them, it may be traced to their conncdion with the civilized people who come into ihcir country to jtrflfRc. ::' ' filler. OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. xcvii fiflcr, if fhe has one ; or he may, if he pleafes, have them both at the r < fame time. It will appear from the fatal confequences I have repeatedly imputed to the ufe of fpirituous liquors, that I more particularly confider thefe people as having been, morally fpcaking, great fufFerers from their communication with the fubjefts of civilized nations. At the fame time they were not, in a (late of nature, without their vices, and fome of them of a kind which is the moft abhorrent to cul- tivated and reflefting man. I fiiall only obferve that incefl and beftiality are among them. When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father and mother of his wife, who treat him, neverthelefs, as a perfeft ftranger, till after the birth of his firft child: he then attaches himfelf more to them than his own parents ; and his wife no longer gives him ?iny other denomination than that of the father of her child, ., k . > ^ ' ^. The profeflion of the men is war and hunting, and the more ac- tive fcene of their duty is the field of battle, and the chafe in the woods. They alfo fpear filh, but the management of the nets is left to the women. The females of this nation are in the fame fubordinate ftate with thofe of all other favage tribes ; but the feverity of their labour is much diminifhed by their fituation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen, they make their journies, which are never of any great lengih, with (ledges drawn by dogs. il » They XCVlll A GENERAL HISTORY They are, at the fame time fubjeft to every kind of domeftic drudgery: they drefs the leather, make the clothes and fhoes, weave the nets, colled wood, ere6l the tents, fetch water, and perform every culinary fervice; fo that when the duties of maternal care are added, it will appear that the life of thefe women is an uninterrupted fuccefiion of toil and pain. This, indeed, is the fenfe they entertain of their own fituation; and, under the- influence of that fentiment, they are fometimes known to deftroy their female children, to fave them from the miferies which they themfelves have fuffered. They alfo have a ready way, by the ufe of certain fimples, of procuring abortions, which they fometimes pra£life, from their hatred of the father, or to fave themfelves the trouble which children occafion : and, as I have been credibly informed, this unna- tural aft is repeated without any injury to the health of the women who perpetrate it. ,'i. lii The funeral rites begin, like all other folemn ceremonials, with fmok- ing, and are concluded by a feaft. The body is drelfed in the bed habili- ments poffefled by the deceafed, or his relations, and is then depofited in a grave, lined with branches : fome domellic utcnfils are placed on it, and a kind of canopy crc^6ied over it. During this ceremony, great lamentations arcmade, and if the departed pcrfon is very much regretted the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the flcfliy part of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, &c. and blacken their faces with charcoal. If they have diftinguifhcd thrmfelvrs in war, they are fometimes laid on a kind of fcalfolcling; and I have been informed that women, as in the Eafl, have been known to fncrifice tluinfelvcs to the manes of their hufbauds. The whole of ihc property belonging to the departed pcrlbn ', ... w OF THE FUR TRADE, Sec, XC13C is deflroyed, and the relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any rags that will cover their nakednefs. The feaft bellowed on the occafion, which is, or at leaft ufed to be, repeated annually, is accompa- nied with eulogiums on the deceafed, and without any a6ls of ferocity. On the tomb are carved or painted the fymbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different animals of the country. >-j Many and various are the motives which induce a favage to engage in war. To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his rtla- tions, or fome of his tribe, by the maffacre of an enemy. If the tribe ftel themfelves called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief pub- lifhes his intention to fmoke in the facred flem at a certain period, to which folemnity, meditation and falling are required as preparatory ce- remonials. When the people are thus afl'embled, and the meeting fane* lifted by the cuftom of fmoking, the chief enlarges on the caufes which have called them together, and the nccelfity of the meafures propofed on the occafion. He then invites thofe who are willing to fol- low him, to fmoke out of the facred Hem, which is confidered as the token of enrolment; and if it (hould be the general opinion, that alfiftance is necefl'ary, others are invited, with great Ibrmality, to join them. Every individual who attends tluTe meetings brings fomcthing with him as a token of his warlike intention, or as an obje6l of lacrifice, which, when the aflembly dillolves, is fufpcndcd from poles near the place of council. _,,, i They liavc frcquent feads, and particular rircumnunccs never fail to U'**'f,r- , HI ., produce m f 1 1 \ iJUj c A GENERAL HISTORY . > produce them ; fuch as a tedious illnefs, long falling, &c. On thefe occafions it is ufual for the perfon who means to give the entertainment, to announce his defign, on a certain day, of opening the medicine bag and fmoking out of his facred item. This declaration is confidered as a facred vow that cannot be broken. There are alfo ftated periods, fuch as the fprmg and autumn, when they engage in very long and folemn ceremonies. On thefe occafions dogs are offered as facrifices, and thofc which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. They alfo make large offerings of their property, whatever it may be. The fcene of thefe ce- remonies is in an open inclofure on the bank of a river or lake, and in the moll confpicuous fituation, in order that fuch as are paffing along or travelling, may be induced to make their offerings. There is alfo a par- ticular cuftom among them, that, on thefe occafions, if any of the tribe, or even a ftranger, fhould be paffing by, and be in real want of any thing that is difplayed as an oflcring, he has a right to take it, fo that he replaces it with feme article he can fpare, though it be of far inferior value : but to take or touch any tiling wantonly is confidered as a facri- legious aft, and highly infulting'to the great Mailer of Life, to ufe their own exprelfion, who is the facred obje£l of their devotion. The fccne of private liicrifice is the lodge of the perfon who performs it, which is pre pared for that purpofe by removing every thing out of it, and fpieading green branches in every part. The fire and afhcs are alfo taken away. A new hearth is made of frelh earth, and another fire is lighted. The own( r of the dwelling remains alone in it ; and he begins the ceremony by fpriading a piece of new cloth, or a well-dreffed moofc-lkin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and ' * " , cxpolcs OF THE FUR TRADE, is entered into and folcmnifed by the ceremony of fmoking, it never fails of being faithfully fulfilled. If a perfon, previous to his going a journey, leaves the facred Rem as a pledge of his return, no confideration whatever will prevent him from executing his engagement.* ,. , , , The chief, when he propofes to make a feall, fends quills, or fmall pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to fuch as he wilhes to nartake of it. At the appointed time the guefts arrive, each bringing a di(h or platter, and a knife, and take their (eats on each fide of the chief, who re- ceives them fitting, according to their refpe6live ages. The pipe is then lighted, and he makes an equal divifion of every thing that is pro- vided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief fings, and accompanies his fong with the tambourin, or (hifhiquoi, or rattle. The gueft who bas firll eaten his portion is confidered as the moft diftinguifhed perfon. If there Ihould be any who cannot finifli the whole of their mefs, they endeavour to prevail on fome of their friends to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their alhdancc with ammunition and tobacco. It is proper alfo to remark, that at • It is liowfvcr to be lamented, that of late there is a relaxation of the duties orijjliully attached to thdc fi'ftiviih. I :.■-,,:•;... thcfc CIV A GENERAL HISTORY » I thefe feafts a fmall quantity of meat or drink is facrificed, before they begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth. Thefe feafts differ according to circumftances ; fometimes each man's allowance is no more than he can difpatch in a couple of hours. At other times the quantity is fufficient to fupply each of them with food for a week, though it muft be devoured in a day. On thefe occafions it is very difficult to procure fubltitutes, and the whole muft be eaten whatever time it may require. At fome of thefe entertainments there is a more rational arrangement, when the guefts are allowed to carry home with them the fuperfluous irt of their portions. Great care is always taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be confidered a profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them. The public feafts are conduced in the fame manner, but with fome additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the necelfary provifions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception for the numerous company. Here the guefts oifcourfe upon public topics, repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rifing generation to follow their example. The entertaintrents on thefe occa- fions confift of dried meats, as it would not be pra£licable to drcfs a fufficient quantity of freffi meat for fuch a large alfembly ; though the women and children are excluded. Similar feafts ufed to be made at funerals, and annually, in nonour of the dead ; but they have been, for fome time, growing into difufe, and ^ never had an opportunity of being prefent at any of thtm. The OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. c\r The women, who are forbidden to enter the places facred to thefe feftivals, dance and fing around them, and fometimes beat time to the mufic within them ; which forms an agreeable contrail. With refpeft to their divifions of time, they compute the length of their journies by the number of nights pafTed in performing them ; and they divide the year by the fuccelfion of moons. In this calculation, however, they are not altogether correft, as they cannot account for the odd days. ^ The names which they give to the moons are defcriptive cf the feveral feafons. i.-V' May - - Atheiky o Pilhim June - - Oppinu o Pilhim J"'y Aupafcen o Pifhim Auguft - Aupahou o Pifhim September Wafkifcon o Pifhim Oftober - Wil'ac o Pifhim November Thithigcn Pewai o Pifliira - Kufkatinayoui o P'.iliim December Pawaichicananafis o Pifliini - January - Kufhapawallicanum o Pifliim * o Frog-Moon. The Moon in which birds begin to lay their eggs. The Moon when birds caft their feathers. The Moon when the young birds begin to fly. The Moon when the moofe- deer cafl their horns. The Rutting-Moon. Hoar-Froll-Moon. , Ice-Moon. Whirlwind-Moon. Extreme cold Moon. February If! cvi A GENERAL HISTORY February - Kichl Piniim ... Big Moon ; fome Hiy, Old Moon. , Hair . Eyes • Nofe - ■ m Noftrils' ' . . Mouth . My teeth . Tongue r^ m Beard _ Braiu M¥ Ears ' - (K)jf': Neck m Throat m Arms > Fingers -^ Nails m m Side « My back - My belly *. ;:,K')^t'. Thighs My knees .h\i^i Legs - Heart m My father m My mother m My boy (ion) - My giiJ (daug liter) Knifteneaux. Ki jai Manitou Matchi manitou Ethini Efquois Nap hew Non-genfe A' walli ifh Us ti quoin Es caa ^ick Wes ty-ky Es kis ocn Ofkiwin p-'- Oo tith ee go mow O tqune Wip pit tab - Otaithani Michitoune With i tip O tow ee gie P qui ow *0 Koot tas gy Onifk Che chee Wos kos fia O'siipiggy No pis quan Nattay O povam No clie quoin nah Noflc O thea Noo ta wie Nigah wci Negoufis Netiuiis O 2 v^buoiitj ..br; S,!: ,: $ ; \ r Algonquin^ Ki jai Manitou. Matchi manitou. Inini. H Ich-quois. Aquoifi. Non-genfe Abi nont-chen. -^ ,4 O'chiti-goine. • "[ O catick. Wineflis. Ofkingick. O'chengewane. Ni-de-ni-guom. O tonne. Nibit. O-tai-na-ni. Omichitonn. Aba-e winikan. O-ta wagane. O'quoi gan. Nigon dagane, O nic. 'fv' Ni nid gincs. i Os-kenge. Opikegan. : <, Ni-pi quoini. i Ni ray fat. Obouame Ni gui tick. Ni gatte. Othai. :^ NoHai. Nigah . Nigouifu's Nidanifs. ■'•?■ :r n- ..;f!.i Mv cvm A GENERAL HISTORY My brother, elder ■ My fifter, elder My grandfather My grandmother ■ My uncle My nephew My niece My mother in law ■ My brother in law • My companion My hufband Blood Old Man I am angry I fear Joy - Heanng Track Chief, great ruler - Thief Excrement Buffalo Ferret Polecat Elk Rein deer - Fallow deer Beaver Woolverine Squirrel Minx Otter Wolf Hare Marten Moofe - •'-i Bear Filher Knift.eneaux. Ni ftefs Ne mifs Ne moo fhum N' o kum N' oSia mifs Ne too fim Ne too fim efquois Nifigoufe Nittah Ne wechi wagan Ni nap pem Mith coo Shi nap Ne kis fi wafli en Ne goos tow Ne hea tha torn Pethom Mis conna Haukimah Kifmouthefk Meyee Mouftouche Si^ous Shicak Mouftouche Attick Attick 7 Amifk Qui qua katch Lnnequachas Sa quafue Nekick Mayegan Wapouce Wappiftan Moulwah Mafqud Wijafk • * - Algonquin, Nis-a-yen. Nimifain. Ni-mi-chomifs. No-co-mifs. Ni ni michoraen. Ne do jim. Ni-do jim equois. Ni figoufifs. Nitah. Ni-wit-chi-wagan, Ni na bem. Mifquoi. Aki win fe. Nif katilfiwine. Nifeft gufe. My>rr-oud gikifi. Oda wagan. Pemi ka wois. Kitchi onodis. Ke moutifke. Moui. Pichike. Shingoufs. Shi-kak. Michai woi. Atick. Wa wafquefh. Amic. Quin quoagki. Otchi ta mou, Shaugouch. Ni guick. Maygan. Wapouce. Wabichinfe. Monfe Macqua. Od-jifck. Lynx OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cix Lynx Porcupine Fox Mufli Rat Moufe Cow BufFalo Meat-flelh Dog Eagle Duck Crow, Corbeau Swan Turkey Pheafants Bird Outard White Goofe Grey Goofe Partridge Water Hen Dove Eggs Pilce or Jack Carp Sturgeon White Fifh Pikrel Fifh (in general) Spawn Fins Trout Craw Fifli Frog Wafp Turtle Snake Awl Knifteneaux. Picheu Cau quah Ma kifew Wajaflc Abicufhifs Nofhi Mouftouche Wias Atim Makufue Sy Sip Ca Cawkeu Wapifeu Mes fei thew Okes kew Pethefew Nifcag Wey Wois Peftafifh Pithew Chiquibifli Omi Mee. Wa Wah Kenonge Na may bin Na May Aticaming Oc-chaw Kenong6 Waquon Chi chi kan Nay goufe A mag gee Athick Ah moo Mikinack Kinibick Ofcajick Algonquin. Pechou. Kack. > Wagouche. ' Wa-jack. ^ Wai wa be gou noge. Nochena pichik. Wi-afs. - ^ Jr I. .J « 'f Ani-moufe. Me-guiffis. Shi-fip. Ka Kak. - Wa-pe-fy. MiffifTay. Ajack. Pi-na-fy. " Nic kack. Woi wois. Pos ta kiflc. Pen ainfe. Che qui bis. O mi-mis. Wa Weni. Kenonge. Na me bine. Na Maiu. ■ \l Aticaming. < ■ • I^ Oh-ga. ) Ki-cons. Wa auock. O nidj-igan. Na Men Goufe. A cha kens chacque. O ma ka ki. A mon. '^ Mi-ki-nack. Ki nai bick. Ma-gofe. Needle X y I H/J5 (^ h' ^t cx Needle Fire Steel Fire wood Cradle Dagger Arrow Fifh Hook Ax Ear-bob Comb Net Tree Wood Paddle Cahoe Birch Rind Bark Touch Wood Leaf Grafs Rafpberries Strawberries Afhes Fire Grapes Fog Mud Currant Road Winter IHand Lake Sun Moon A GENERAL HISTORY Day Night Snow ■^.s?- Knifteneaux. Saboinigan Appet Mich-tah Teckinigan Ta comagau Augufli or Atouche Quofquipichican Shegaygan Chi-kifebifoun Sicahoun Athabe Miftick Miflick Aboi Chiman WaJ'quoi Wafqiioi , Poufagan Nepelnah Maiquofi Mifqui-meinac O'-tai-e mipac Pecouch Scou tay Shonienac . JPakidiihow Afus ki . Kifijiwin Mefcanah - p Pipoun MinilHck Sagayigan Pifim Tibifca pcfim (the night Sun Kigigah Tibilca Counah ■•tf r,dT a;>u< Algonquin. Sha-bo nigan. Scoutecgan. Mi (fane. Tickina-gan. Na-ba-ke-gou-man. Mettic ka nouins. Maneton Miquifcane. Wagagvette. Na be chi be foun. Pin ack wan. Affap. Miti-coum. Mitic. Aboui. S-chiman. Wig nafs. On-na-guege. Sa-ga-tagan. Ni-biche. Mafquofi. Mifqui meinac. O'-tai-e minac Pengoui. Scou tay. Shomcnac. A Winni. A Shifld. . Ki fi chi woin. Mickanan. Pi pone. Minifs. Sag^yigan. Kijis. Dibic kijifs. Kigi gatte. Dibic kawte. So qui po. 1 ■-t Rain OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. Rain Drift Hail Ice Froft Mift Water World Mountain Sea Morning Mid-day Portage Spring Ri' r Rapid Rivulet - Sand Earth Star Thunder Wind Calm Heat Evening North South Eaft Weft 'I'o-morrow Bone • *- Broth Feaft Greafe or oil Marrow tat Sinew Lodge Bed Knifteneaux. ■ Kimiwoin " - -^ Pewan - - Shes eagan Melquaming Aquatin Picafyow Nepec " - Meffe afky (all the earth) Wachee Kitchi kitchi ga ming - KeqQifliepe Abefah quiOieik Unygam - MeffoulcaTning Sipee - Bawaftick - Sepeefis - Thocaw - Afkee . Attack - Pithufeu - Thoutin - Athawoftin - Quifhipoi - T a kafhike - Kywoitin « Sawena woon - Conrawcaftak Paquifi mow - Wabank - Ofkann - Michim waboi - Ma qua fee _ Pi mis _ Ofcan pimis - Afstis - Wig-waum . Ne pa win r>^!^ ,* Algonquin. Ki mi woini. Pi-woine. Me qua menfan. Me quam. Gas-ga-tin. An-quo-et. Ni-pei. Miffiachki. WatChive. Kitchi-kitchi ga ming. Ki-kl-iep. Na OcK quoi. Ounl-gam. MinO ka ming. Sipi. Ba wetick. Sipi wes chin. Ne gawe. Ach ki. Anafig. Ni mi ki. ' No tine A-no-a-tine. Aboyce. O'n-a guche. Ke woitinak. Sha-"wa-na-wang. Wa-ba-no-notine. Panguis-chi-mo. Wa-bang. Oc-kann. '1 luiboub. Wicon qui wine. Pnni-tais. Ofkapimitais. Attifs. Wi-gui-wam. ' Ne pai wine. Within { il 'I" CXll A GENERAL HISTORY l»' s. ■ > :."_",. Kniftencaux, Within ^ Pendog ke - - Door » Squandam Difh . Othagan Fort - Wafgaigan - Tabanaflc Sledge Cintture - Poquoatehoun Cap - Aftotin Socks - Afhican Shirt - Papackeweyan Coat Papife-co-wagan Blanket - Wape weyang Cloth " Maneto weguin Thread - Aifabab Garters - Chi ki-bifoon Mittens - AnifFack Shoes - Mafkifin Smoking bag - Kufquepetagan - Apifan Portage lling Strait on - Cjiafk Medicine Ivias ki kee Red - Mes c oh Blue - !< afqutch (fame as black) White . Wabifca Yellow . Saw waw Green . Chibatiquare Brown • Giey, &c. _ Ugly - Machc na goufeu HandHime . Catawadifeu Beautiful - Kilfi Sawenogan DcaF - Nima petom Good-natured - Miihiwalhin Pregnant - Paawie Fat . Outhincu Big - Mulhikitcc Small or little - Abifadieu ^ • Short - Chcniafidi Algonquin. Pendig. Scouandam. O' na gann. Wa-kuigan. Otabanac. Ketche pifou. Pe matinang. A chi-gan. Pa pa ki weyan. Papile- co-wagan, Wape weyan. Maneto weguin. AH'abab. Ni gafke-tafe befoun. Medjicawine. Makifin. Kafquepetagan. Apican. Goi-ack. Macki-ki. Mes-cowa. O-jawes-cowa. Wabifca. j O-jawa. •« O'iawes-cowa. O'lawes-cowa. O'jawes-cowa. Mous-counu-goufe. Nam bida. Quoi Natch. Ka ki be cliai. Onichidiin. And'jioko. " i Oui-ni-noc. Mefsha. Agu-chin. ,, Tackofi. ., V i liiVi' I i Skill • «• !?l OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxin Skin Long Strong Coward Weak Lean Brave suj^m Young man Cold Hot - Spring Summer Fall One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Eleven .aui*) ->»VJU< Knifleneaux, Wian Kinwain Malcawa , - | Sagatahaw Nitha miflew Mahta waw Nima Guftaw Ofquineguifh Kiffin Kichatai - Vr ■ Minoufcaraing Nibin Tagowagonk Peyac Nimeu Niflitou Neway Ni-annan Negoutawoefic Niln woific Jannanew Shack Mitatat Peyac ofap ■' i 1:'-5v, 1' -)Ui\ Twelve Thirteen Fourteen Fifteen Sixteen Seventeen Eighteen Nineteen - "V fit; . -i! ■ 7 - .« IW' Nifhcu ofap Nichtou olap Neway oCap Nianiian olap Nigoutawoclic ofnp Nifli wocfic ofap Jannanew ofap Shack ofup . P Algonquin. Wian. Kiniwa, Mache-cawa. Mas cawife. Cha-goutai-ye. Cha-goufi. Ka wa ca-tofa. Son qui taige. Olkinigui. Kiflinan. Kicha tai. Minokaminff. Nibiqui. Tagowag. Pedieik. ;,j j Nige. Nis-woisontL-.iiranv Ne-au. Na-nan. ]j(.| Ni §outa waswois. :)jjj Nigi-was-wois. ^■Jl^^^ She was wois. v^;];)^ Shang was wois. • ,,4 - Mit-alfwois. - Mitaffwois, hachi, pe- wpv/f.jItfW chcik. - \fv.ii MitaflTwois, hachi, nige. Mitaffwois, hachi, nif- wois. Mitaffwois, hachi, ne-au. Mitaffwois, hachi, nanan. Mitaffwois, hachi, ne- goutawafwois. Mitaffwois, hachi, wafwois. Mitaffwois, hachi, wafwois. Mitaffwois, liachi, (hang as wois, Twenty ilW f' >[UiJ^t nigi fhi- .i-y. ■ • I ex IV A GENERAL HISTORY ii.> n m M i H^ If H i H 'f< 11 ' i Twenty Twenty-one Twenty-two, &c. Thirty Forty Fifty Sixty Seventy Eighty Ninety Hundred Two Hundred One thoufand Firft - •' "■* Laft ' More Better Beft I, or me You, or thou They, or them We My, or mine Your's Who - * Whom What His, or hcr's All Some, or fome few The lame AH the world All the m«n ' • Knifleneaux. Nifheu mitenah Nifliew mitenah peyac ofap Niflieu mitenah nifhew olap Nifhtou mitenah Neway mitenah I^iannan mitenah Negoutawoific mitenah Nifliwoific mitenah Jannaeu mitenah Shack mitenah Mitana mitinah Nelhew mitena a mite- -i nah - / Mitenah mitena mite- i nah - J Nican Squayatch Minah Athiwack mithawafliin Athiwack mithawalhin Nitha Kitha Withawaw Nithawaw Nitayan Kitayan Awoinfe w mm Otayan Kakithau Pcy peyac Tabefcoutch Midi acki wanque Kakithaw £thi nyock - H Algonquin. Nigeta-nan, Nigeta nan, hachi, pc- chic. Nifwois mitanan. Neau mitanan. Nanan mitanan. Nigouta was wois mi- tanan. Nigi was wois mitanan* She was wois mitanan, Shang was wois mitanan. Ningoutwack. Nige wack. ^^,^1, Kitchi-wack. "' - . . , Nitara. - ' ''? Shaquoiyanque. Awa chi min. ■^> Awachimin o nichi (hen. Kitchi o nichi (hin. Nin. Kin. ■•■ >;jv";wi ^ Win na wa. Nina wa. ' ^^ Nida yam. t Kitayam. Auoni. ft •>!:!.' ! Kegoi nin. Wa. , ■< Otayim mis. Kakenan. ."ivl^. Pe-pichic. Mi ta yoche. Milhiwai alky, MiiU Inini wock. More OF THE FUR TRADE, See. CSV More Now and then Sometimes Seldom Arrive Beat To burn To fing To cut To hide - -iti:^, To cover *• To believe To lleep - nmf To difpute To dance To give To do To eat To die To forget To (peak To cry (tears) To laugh To fet down To walk To fall To work ... To kill To fell To live To fee To come Enough Cry (tears) It hails There is . \ Kniftencaux. ". Mina - I as-cow-puco - Ta couchin . Otamaha _ Midafcafoo _ Nagamoun - , . Kilquifhan - Catann Acquahoun Taboitam Nepan Ke ko mi towock Nemaytow Mith Ogitann m-' Wiflinee Nepew Winnekifkifew Athimetakcoufe Mantow Papew Nematappe Pimoutais Packifm Ah tus kew - Nipahaw Attawoin Pimatife Wabam Allamotch Egothigog Mantcau Shifiagan '.-^'■Ka- There is fomc I J ^^'"^ ^^* \finiim<0(i P2 Algonquin. - Mina wa. - Nannigoutengue. Wica-ac-ko. Ta-gouchin. Packit-ais. Icha-quifo. f Nagam. n 8[uiquijan. ,'; . afo tawe. A CO na oune. Tai boitam. ' Ni pann. •> ,. , Ki (]|uaidiwine. Nimic. ^ . > Mih. \ O-gitoune. Wiffiniwin. »"' Ni po wen. Woi ni mi kaw, . • AninntagoufTe, > I Ma wi. > vev ; -v Pa-pe. Na matape win. ^ ■ -i Pcmouffai. Panguilhin, Anokeh. Nifhi-woes. Ata wois. Pematis, ,j,,, Wab. Pitta-fi-moufs. ' Mi mi nic. '• "^ ^ Ambai ma wita, j (.,q Sai faigaun. ■/i rA Aya wan. jUi CXVl A GENERAL HISTORY It rains After to-morrow To-day Tlicreaway ,1. J,K Much Prel'ently Make, heart This morninff 1 ris night Above - .'JWRJ- Beiow .jauo kh • Truly -'viriwo. Already - fii- Yet, more titv/ih":L- Yefterday Far Near Never No - i^v/ < Yes . •;>•'. ini in By-and-bye ^ji.hi Always - .■ Make hafte Its long fince .tiiUiioinsT - ■ .Ririlh/T '/I .jjo-f-ifH iv'I Some Account Kaiftencaux. Ouimiwoin Awis wabank Anoutch Netoi Michett- Pichifqua Quithipeh SKebas Tibifcag Efpiming Tabaffifh Taboiy Salhay Minah jifiiiTacoufhick - Wathow - Quifhiwoac - Nima wecatch Nima Ah Pa-nima Ka-ki-kee Quethcpeh Mewaiiha , 11" \7- - r, J^IT th.Juontf*! - Algonquin.. Qui mi woin. Awes wabang. Non gum. Awoitc. Ni h\ wa. Pif . inac. V/ai we be. Shai bas. De bi cong. O kitchiai. Ana mai. Ne da wache. Sha Ihaye. Mina wa. Pitchinago. WafFa. Paifliou. Ka wi ka, Ka wine. .. In. Pa-nima. Ka qui nick. Niguim. Mon wifha. fliowr.JJv of (he Chcpewyan Indians. 'f M'r» 'T > 11.'. , ' :::a 'kJ or la '/i" J«0 ol- obid oT i>w jo-T ol- •jjrrGd <^t; •■>vi;^ ol Ob or im oT, :»ih <>r ij^To'i oT; :-i (;')({ I oT .0 -fJ-i oT (l^ii'A cT ^y> oT :}i\'v» oT \\b\ oT •*t(m. ol lli^ oT 1 o oT IS. . ..' - 1. THEY arc a numerous people, who confider the country between the parallels bf latitude 6o. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to no. Weft, as their lands or home. They fpeak a copious language, which is very difficult to be attained, and furnifhes dialetls to the various emigrant tribes which inhabii the following immcnfc track of country, whofc boundary OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxvu boundary I (hall defcribe*. It begins at Churchill, and runs along the line of reparation between them and the Kniftencaux, up the MilTinipi to the Ifle a. la CroiTe, pa fling on through the Buffalo Lake, River Lake, and Portage la. Loche : from thence it proceeds by the Elk River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes diredly Well to the Peace River; and • up that river *o its fource aixl tributary waters; from whencj it pro- ceeds to the waters of the river Columbia; and follows that river to latitude 52. 24. North, and longitude 122. C54. Weft, where the Chepe- wyans have the Avnah or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then takes a line due Well to the fea-coaft, within which, the country is poffeffed by a people who fpeak their languagef , and are confcquently defcendcd from them : there can be no doubt, therefore, of their progrefs being to the Eaftward. A tnoe of them is even known at the upper cllabliflmicnts on the Safl-iatchiwine; and I do not pretend to afcertain how far they may fellow the Rocky Mountains to the Eafl. ■,g^r It is not polTible to form any juft cftimate of their numbers, but it is apparent, neverthelcfs, that they are by no means proportionate to the vail extent of their territories, whici? may, in fome degree, be attributed to the ravages of the fmall pox, which ^rc, more or lefs, evident . Uioughout this part of the continent. ,^,j^^,^., ,;.,,, [.Iji,..,,., ,,,,,. i,,,j,,^ The notion which thefe people entertain of the creation, is of a very * Thofc of them who come to tiMclc witli us, ilo not fxcccd ci' lit hundred men, and have a liiiall(.'r!n|» of the ICiiiOt'iu'.uix tong.ic, in Which tlicy cmy on then- dta.ings willi us. t + Tlic a , .ioaid I )un 3wd .Anui Vitid w^ij.iiiifi ,3htt0a a^tui ■ f They do pot, Iiowcvfv, full ihcm ;i"> flivcSi bat as comp;iui^ms to thofe wIjo are fuppofed to live more comroiiuMy tn.iu ilicmk-Ivcs, - ' . \.. » , v iUu ■ ■-I J I are OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. CXXl are fewn together, the latter reaching upwards to the middle, and being fupported by a belt, under which a fmall piece of leather is drawn to cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both before and behind. In the flioes they put the hair of the moofe or rein-deer with additional pieces of leather as focks. The fhirt or coat, when girted round the w^aift, reaches to the middle of the thigh, and the mittens are lewed to the fleeves, or are fufpended by firings from the fhoulders, A ruff or tippet furrounds the neck, and the ikin of the head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made of ^'•veral deer or fawn fkins fewed together, covers the whole. This drefs is worn fingle or double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and without. Thus arrayed, a Chepewyan will lay himfelf down on the ice in the middle of a lake, and repofe in comfort ; though he will fometimes find a difficulty in the morning to difencumber himfelf from the fnow drift- ed on him during the night. If in his pafTage he ibould be in want of provifion, he cuts an hole in the ice, when he feldom fails of taking fome trout or pike, whofe eyes he inftantly fcoops out, and cats as a great delicacy ; but if they fhould not be fufficient to fatisfy his appe- tite, he will, in this neceflity make his meal of the fifli in its raw ftate ; but, thofe whom I faw, preferred to drefs their vi61uals when circumftances admitted the neceflary preparation. When they are in that part of theii country which does not produce a fufficient quan- tity of wood for fuel, they are reduced to the fame exigency, though they generally dry their meat in the fun.* The • The provifion called Pcmican, on which the Chcpcwyans, as ivell as the other favages of this cuuntiVt chiefly lublifl in their joiirnics, is prepared in the following manner. The lean parts of the JIc/Ia of the larger animals arc tut in thin fliccs, and arc placed on a voodcn gialc over a flow lire, or ;'aL ' cxpoUd CXXll A GENERAL HISTORY pt;.' ''t The drcfs of the women differs from that of the men. Tlieif leggins are tied below the knee; and their coat or fhift is wide, hanging down to the ancle, and is tucked up at pleafure by means of a beh, which is faflened round the wailt. Thofe who have children have thefe garments made very full about the fhoulders, as when they are travelling they carry their infants upon their backs, next their (kin, in which fituaiion they are perfectly comfortable and in: a pofition convenient to be fuckled. Nor do they difcontinue to give their milk to them^till they have another child. Child-birth is not the objeft of that tender care and ferious attention among the favages as it is among civil ifed people. At this period no part of their ufual occu- pation is omitted, and this continual and regular exercife muft con- tribute to the welfare of the mother, both in the progrefs of parturition and in the moment of delivery. The women have a Angular cuftom of # cutting off a fmall piece of the navel ftring of the new-born children, and hang it about their necks : they are alfo curious in the covering they make for it, which they decorate with porcupine's quills and beads. Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as any other articles of their property, they are always confulted, and poflefjs a in O'l; ^'rifii r* '^VH .; ,. ij' !t.a5''f| v»t;i; »r: •:>'U 1)^^14 J »ti;>fi ^^iSJjeJtalUOit') expofed to t^ic fun, ?nd romptimcs to the froft. Thefe opfiratims dry it, and in that ftate it is pounded between two (tones: it will then keep with caic for Icveial \ears. If. however, it k kcj)t in large quantities, it is dil'pulcil to ferment in tlic Ipring of the year, v, hen it muft be expoled to tiie air, or it will foon decay. Tlie infule fat, and that of the rump, whitu is much thicker in thefe wild than our doraeflic animals, is melted down and mixed, in a boi'ing fla'.o with the pounded meat, in equal pro- portions: it is then put in b;i(kcts or bags for th.. convcni' ticc of carrying it. Tlius it becomes a nutritious food, and is eaten, without any further prcparatii n, or the addition of fpicc, fait, or any vegetable or farinaceous fubflance. A little tirat reconcihs it to the palate. There is another fort xn»de with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which in of a fupcrior quality. -■(■ I "1,1 OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxxiii very confiderabie influence in the traffic with Europeans, and other important concerns. n\t r They are not remarkable for their adivity as hunters, which is owing to the eafe with which they fnare deer and fpear fi{h : and thefe occupa- tions are not beyond the ftrength of their old men, women, and boys : fo that they participate in thofe laborious occupations, which among their neighbours, are confined to the women. They make war on the Efqui- niaux, who cannot refill their ftjperior numbers, and put them to death, as it is a principle with them never to make prifoners. At the fame t ."•>- q 2 time II CXXIV A GENERAL HISTORY '> time they tamely fubmit to the Knifteneaux, who are not fo numerous as themfelves, when they treat them as enemies. aoiiu^fnu They do not affe£l that cold referve at meeting, either among them- felves or ftrangers, which is common with the Knifteneaux, but com- municate mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are pofTeffed. Nor are they roufed like them from an apparent torpor to a ftate of great aftivity. They are confequently more uniform in this refpeft, though they are of a very perfevering difpofition when their interelt is concerned. ti^Mio:* 0^1 ^c m-^hr^ :i As thefe people are not addicted to fpirituous liquors, they have a regular and uninterrupted ufe of their underftanding, which is always dire6led to the advancement of their own intereft ; and this difpofition, as may be readily imagined, fometimes occafions them to be charged with fraudulent habits. They will fubmit with patience to the fevereft treatment, when they are confcious that they deferve it, but will never forget or forgive any wanton or unneceffary rigour. A moderate conduft I never found to fail, nor do I hefitate to reprefent them, altogether, as the moft peaceable tribe of Indians known in North America. There are conjurers and high-priefts, but I was not prefent at any of their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of diforders. Their principal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and confumption. The venereal complaint is very common ; but though its progrefs is ^ if flow, OF THE FUR TRADE, &c. cxxv flow, it gradually undermines the conftitution, and brings on premature decay. They have recourfe to fuperflition for their cure, and charms are their only remedies, except the bark of the willow, which being burned and reduced to powder, is llrewed upon green wounds and ulcers, and places contrived for promoting perfpiration. Of the ufe of fimples and plants they have no knowledge ; nor can it be expefted, as their country does not produce them. Though they have enjoyed ib long an intercourfe with Europeans, their country is fo barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordi- nary neceifaries naturally introduced by fuch a communication; and they continue, in a great meafure, their own inconvenient and awkward modes of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive the deer into the fmall lakes, where they fpear them, or force them into inclofures, where the bow and arrow are employed againft them. Thefe animals are alfo taken in fnarcs made of fkin. In the, former inftance the game is divided among thofe who have been engaged in the purfuit of it. In the latter it is confidered as private property i neverthelefs, any unfuccefsful hunter paffmg by, may take a deer fo caught, leaving the head, {kin, and faddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no regular government, as every man is lord in his own family, they are influenced, more or lefs, by certain principles which conduce to their general benefit. In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely proceed to a greater degree of violence than is occafioned by blows, wreftling, and pulling of •■; ^ . .,..,,, :^, ,', -r^ -,.■ ....' the cxxyi A GENERAL HISTORY the hair, while their abufive language confifts in applying the name of the moft offenfive animal to the obje6l of their difpleafure, and adding the term ugly, and chiay, or flill-born.* /. M-y. .if.. 5. Their arms and domeftic apparatus, in addition to the articles pro- cured from Europeans, are fpears, bows, and arrows, fifhing-nets, and lines made of green deer-fliin thongs. They have alfo nets for taking the beaver as he endeavours to efcape from his lodge when it is broken open. It is fet in a particular manner for the purpofe, and a man is employed to watch the moment when he enters the fnare, or he would foon cut his way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice, where he remains as if he had no hfe in him. lu *,> «. .i?;.i-v',j •. ,n> , . vl The fnow-Ihoes are of very fuperior workmanfhip. The mner part of their frame is ilraight, the outer one is curved, and it is pointed at both ends, with that in front turned up. They are alfo laced with great neatnefs with tnongs made of deer-ikin. The Hedges are formed of thin flips of board turned up alfo in front, and are highly polifhed with crooked knives, in order to Aide iilong with facility. Clofe-graincd wood is, on that account, the bell ; but theirs are made oF the red or fwamp fpruce-fir tree. , , .,. ,^, ,, , ,. . The country, which thefe people claim as their land, has a very fmall quantity of earth, and produces little or no wood or herbage. :-*<:»•» ti* ' . yi 7 j-=. -I .i[f. . :.■ ■! '. ,il • Tliij name is nlfo applicable to the foetus of an attinml, when killed, which is conHdci-d as oiM of the grcateft delicacies. of TVtt FUk tRADE, &c. CXXVll Its chief vegetable fubUance is the rriofs, on which the deer feed; and a kind of rock mofs, which, in titnes of fcarcity, preferves the lives of the natives. When boiled in water, it diflblves into a clammy, glutinous, fubftance, that affords a very fufficient nouriOiment. But, notwithlland- ing the barren ftate of -their country, with proper care and economy, thrfe people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound with fifh, and the hills are covei'ed with deer. Though, of all the Indian people of this continent they arc conhdered as the mod provident, they fuffer feverely at certain fcafons, and particularly in the dead of winter, when they are under the neceffity of retiring to their fcanty, flinted woods. To the Weflward of them the mufk-ox may be found, but they have no dependence on it as an article of fuftenance. There are alfo largci hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and feveral kindi of foxes, with white and grey partridges, &c. The beaver and moofe- deer they do not find till they come within 60 degrees North latitude; and the buffalo is flill further South. That animal is known to frequent an higher latitude to the Weflward of their country. Thefe people bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are found on the fuf- face of the earth. It is eafily worked, bears a fine polifh, and hardens with time; it endures heat, and is manulattured into pipes or calumets, as they are very fond of fmoking tobacco ; a luxury which the Euro- peans communicated to them. Their amufements or recreations are but few. Their mufic is To inharmonious, and their dancing fo av\kward, that they might be fap- pofed to be afhained of both, as they very feldom |)ratlife either. They alfo flioot at marks, and play at the games common among tlicm ; ■ ' but CXXVIU A GENERAL HISTORY but in faft they prefer fleeping to either ; and the greater part of their time is paffed in procuring food, and refting from the toil v ^ceflary to obtain it. Wm I » \ ! ■ .1 ¥ I I 1 I They are alfo of a querulous difpofition, and are continually making complaints; which they exprefs by a conftant repetition of the word eduiy, " it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice. ■J ••}•." ^ ■ t.;\ ■■■>■;'- L .rri:yi'W. They are fuperflitious in the extreme, and almoft every aftion of their lives, however trivial, is more or lefs influenced by fome whimfical notion. I never obferved that they had any particular form of religious worfliip; but as they believe in a good and evil fpirit, and a ftate of future rewards and punifhments, they cannot be devoid of religious irnpreflions. At the fame time they manifeft a decided unwillingnefs to make any communications on the fubjeft. / f,, ', , . « The Chepewyans have been accufed of abandoning their aged and infirm people to perifh, and of not burying their dead; but theic are melancholy neceflitics, which proceed from their wandering way of life. They are by no means univerfal, for it is within my knowledge, that a man, rendered helplefs by the palfy, was carried about for many years, with the greatell tendernefs and attention, till he died a natural death. That they fliould not bury their dead in their own country can- not be imputed to them as a cullom arifing from a favagc infenfibility, as they inhabit Tuch high latitudes that the ground never thaws; but it is well known, that when they are in the woods, they cover their dead with trees. Bcfides, they manifcd no common refpctl to the iui memory OF#THE FUR TRADE, &c. CXXIX memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cut- ting off their hair, and never making ufe of the property of the decealed. Nay, they frequently deftroy or facrifice their own, as a token of regret and fbrrow. If there be any people who, from tlie barren ftate of their country, might be fuppofed to be cannibals by nature, thefe people, from the difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable to t\^SLt imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, i never was ac- quainted with one inftance of that difpofuion ; nor among all the natives which I met with in a route of five thoufand miles, did I fee or hear of an example of cannibalifm, but fuch as arofe from that irrefiitible ne- ceffity, which has been known to impel even the moil civilifed people to eat each other. . ■■ Exa7nple of the Chepewyan Tongue, Man m i Dinnie. . ■ ih:'^ Woman • Chequois. «» ', >ii.\ Young man m A:. Quclaquis. ; Young woman • Quelaquis chcquoi. My fon • ■ . Zi azay. My daughter m Zi Icngai. My hufband Zi dinnie. My wife Zi zayunai. ,. " My brother - ■ Zi raing. My father -•>. Zi lah. My mother Zi nah. !*ly grandfather Zi unai. Mc or my m See. ■ ; I m Ne. ^ ,.; You •k Nun. ;„: ;| ;, 'i hey m ■ Ik. If Head m ILdihic. J , i ;i.',4 m Hand cxxx A GENERAL HISTORY 4' I y «!i ijn Hand Leg Foot Eyes Teeth Side Belly Tongue Hair Back Blood The Knee Clothes or Blanket Coat Leggin Shoes Robe or Blanket Sleeves Mittens Cap Swan Duck Goofe "White partridge Grey partridge Buffalo Moofe deer Rein-deer Beaver • Bear Otter Martin Wolvcreen Wolf Fox Hare Dog Beaver- (kin -; Ottrr-fkin Moo(c-lkin Fat Greafe ;: ;u, Law. Edthen. Cuh. Nackhay. Goo. Kac-hey. Bitt. Edthu. Thiegah. Loffen. Dell. Cha-gutt. Etlunay. Eeh. Thell. Kinchee. Thuth. Bah. Geefe. Sah. Kagouce. Keth. Gah. Cafs bah. Deyee. Giddy. Dinvai. Edthun. Zah. Zdfs. Naby-ai. Thah. Naguii^ai. Yels (Nouneay.) Naguethey. Can. Sliengh. Zah thith. Naby-ai thith. Dcny-ai thith. Icah. Thlefs. >&^if '■■■'^ ..'.!;>l^. Meat, '..!«» •^'-AM^MII |w» ^ i)«*»i <'.i it-i-i- OF- THE FUR TRADE, &c. CXXXl Meat . Pike • ' White-fifti Trout - Pickerel . Fifhhook Fifhiine One w Two • Three . 4 . Four . * Five > Six _ Seven . f Eight - Nine . Ten « Twenty Fire • Water M Wood _ ^/ ■■■ Ice - Snow . Rain . Lake m.. River _. Mountain Stone . Berries - Hot M Cold «■ Ifland a*. Gun . » • Powder Knifb . Axe •» Sun „ Moon ' "• Red ^ ; Black . ;> Trade, or jartcr Good m } Bid. Uldiah. Slouey. Slouyzinai, O'Gah. Ge-eth. Clulez. Slachy. Naghur. Tagh-y. Dengk-y. Safoulachee. Alki tar-hy-y. »/ I X / Alki deing-hy Cakina hanoth-na. , Ca noth na. Ma ghur cha noth na.. Counn. M.; ; >^u I Toue. - } Dethkin. Thun. Yath. Thinnelfee. ...» Touey. , . ; .T Tefle. ,, . Zeth. Thaih. Gui-eh. Edowh. Edzah. Nouey. , ; Telkithy. Telkithy counna. Befs. Thynle. Sah. Deli coufe. Dell zin. Na-houn-ny. Leyzong. Not • * ;« CXXXll A GENERAL HISTORY, Set. Not good Stinking Bad, uffly Long unce Now, to-day To-morrow By-and-bye, or prefcntly Houfe, or lodge Canoe Door Leather-lodge Chief - . Mine His - - . Yours' Large Small, or little I love you I hate you I am to be pitied M^ relation Give me water Give me meat Give me fi(h Give me meat to eat Give me water to drink Is it far off * Is it near * It is not far It is near How many What call you him, or that Come here Pain, or fuffering It's hard You lie What then Leyzong houlley. Geddey. Slieney. Gallaainna. Ganneh. Gambeh. Carahoulleh. Cooen. ■ Shaluzee. The o ball. N'abalay. Buchahudry. Zidzy. Bedzy. Nuntzy. Unlhaw. Chautah. Ba ehoinichdinh. Bucnoinichadinh hillay. Eft-chouneft-hinay. Sy lod, innay. Too hanniltu. Beds-hanniltu. Sloeeh anneltu. Bid Barheether, To Barhithen. Netha uzany. Nilduay uzany. Nitha-hillai. Nilduay. Etlaneldcy. £tla houllia. Yeu deffay. I-yah. Eduyah. Untzee. Edlaw-gueh. jail lit iwnrr-n— -Tn~—TnntBBBi!lWIHIlfa t 4 ii iiteM i .■art iK.>v'.'>i: .'hnt i JOURNAL OF A ,.< ~ V O Y A G E, (j.d^ 'Kifb 9f5, - t ===== 5 -yf^v/ jism & CHAPTER L Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the l^he ' the Hills, in company -with M, Le Roux, Account of the pa. ^j, jprovijions, &c. DircBion of the courfe. Enter one of the branches of the Lake, Arrive in the Peace River, Appearance of the Irnd. 'Hayigation of the river. Arrive at the mouth of the Dog River, S^cce/Jive defcription of federal carrying places, A canoe lojl in one of the Falls. Encamp on Point de Roche. Courfe continued. Set the nets, &c. Arrive at the Slave Lake. The *" weather extremely cold. Banks of the river defcribed, with its trees, foil, &c. Account of the animal produElions, and the fifhery of the Lake. Obliged to wait lill the moving of the ice. Three families of Indians arrive from Athabafca, Beavers, geefe, andfwans killed. The nets endangered by ice. Re-imbark and land on afmall ijland. Courfe continued along the Jhores, and acrofs the bays of the Lake. Various fuccejjes of the hunters. Steer for an ijland where there was plenty of cranberries and fmall onions. Killfeveral rein deer. Land on an if and named IJle a la Cache. Clouds of mufquitoes, VV E embarked at nine o'clock in the morning, at Fort Chepewyan, on the South fide of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude 58. 40. North, and longitude 110, 30. Weft from Greenwich, and compafs has fixteen B degrees ■•■,„....:■ : : 1 .^i>-.t 1789. June. Wednef. 3. .-.v. ! '.'0 "j,K. m. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■Aai2.8 M2.5 ■Uuu. IE il4 llllii^ ^^V »» /.< # 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WIUTIR, N.Y. I4SI0 (71«) •79-4S03 o % ;ii l33 i.ij III i;ii> ijij ijt\ I A> I J,'> 1/1 I j^t 1/7 i.'i III) iiH /^"^ ■">//,,, '^"I A.VS I /< VATllANAI.MHvss ■ l<) iiO 117 ii)> il.i III ii.S iij III III) lot) lo» \ \ I <>(> I o.i I o.| -^ f'».) C.ft <>r '^ s,. A Map ()(' 10 RT ( IIIPKW^AN tollic soyrr// s/:./, ill \7[\\). (•.(> I r II \ r «J ^ .^Mfc^': ;/#^' ..,>|i' ,(«^' i/i «»0 r i»n 14/ l.iiityitliilr I ^('i \\V«( Ti mil i ^ i Cri'i itwirli |y) n:\ %*» '",» I lit 4..'lhl.;, /■,,/■*.*,,/ ,.. ,'.7 „i„, /., il. „,y ,,„,,„,/ HI ll» tn AH I'M) \r\l (I 4' 4 f- m 'H 2 1789. June. .f'". » JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE degrees variation Eaft, in a canoe made of birch bark. The crew con- fifted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their wives, and a German; we were accompanied alfo by an Indian, who had acquired the title of Englifli Chief, and his two wives, in a Tmall canoe, with two young Indians; his followers in another fmall canoe. Thefe men were engaged to ferve us in the twofold capacity of interpreters and hunters. This Indian was one of the followers of the chief who condu61ed Mr. Hearne to the copper-mine river, and has fince been a principal leader of his countrymen who were in the habit of carrying furs to Churchill Fa£lory, Hudfon's Bay, and till of late very much attached to the intereft of that company. Thele circun'ftances pro- cured him the appellation of the Englifli Chief. ^ .V. \*- "c'-V -try. •' t*frf\'A»I hI *kl\\ \i\ ^Xt\ fi^r, : |> ^^ tk -it- y .V We"^ were alio accompanied by a cainde that I had equipped for the pufpofe of trade, and given the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the Company's clerks. In this I was obliged to fliip part of our provifion; which, with the clothing neceflary for us on the voyage, a proper afTortment of the articles of merchandize as prefents, to ensure us a friendly reception among the Indians, and the ammunition and arms requifite for defence, as well as a fupply for our hunters, were more tlhan our own canoe could carry, but by th6 time we ftiould part com- pany, there was every reafon to fuppofc that our expenditure would make fufficient room for the whole. ■■ • .: ■fxr- We proceeded twenty-one miles to the Weft, and tlien took a courfc of nine miles to North-North- Weft, when we entered the river, or one of the branches of the lake, of which there are feveral. We then fteered North five miles, when our courle changed for two miles to North- North :N0RTH-WEST continent of AMERICA. North-Eaft, and her£ at feven in the evening we landed and pitched n^- June. our tents. One of the hunters killed a goofe, and a couple of ducks ; <- "v-— / at the fame time the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gummed, which neoeffary bufmefs was effedually fflcrformed. ; ^ . ». ^ We embarked at four this morning, and proceeded North-North- Thuirday^. Eaft half a mile, North one mile and a half, Weft two miles, North- Weft two miles, Weft-North- Weft one mile and a lialf, Nortli-North- Weft half a mile, and Weft-North- Weft two miles, when this branch lofes itfelf in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that the cur- rents of thefe various branches of the lake, when the Peace River c. y ••' ' is high, as in May and Auguft, nin into the lake, which in the other months of the year returns its waters to them ; whence to this place, the branch is not more than two hundred yards wide, nor lefs than an hundred and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in one place, where an huge rock rifcs above them. The low land is covered with wood, fuch as white birch, pines of different kinds, with the poplar, three kinds of willow, and the Hard, tO'nt,^^ ,^ i^. It; The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this fpot, and its current is ftronger than that of the channel which communicates with the lake It here, indeed, alfumes the name of the Slave River.* The courfe of this day was as follows : — North- Weft two miles, North-North-Weft, through iflands, fix miles. North four miles and a half, North by Eaft two miles. Weft by Nortli fix miles, North one r:Vfr;!;r^ I 1 i.i ■ • ';i>!l« . . - ... ,. J, The Slave Indians living been drivP4i from thei', orijii\al country, by their enemies the Kniftc- «nux, along the borders of this psrt of the river, ft rcct'fvcd thut title, though it hy no means involvci the idea of )orvitiul«, but wa« givcit-to tiiclv fugitive* «« « term of reproach, ihut dwioVcU rowc ihan common favaf^cncls. *''''' B 2 mile, '.' June. O V*< '' Friday 5. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH.THE mile, North-Eaft by Eall two miles, North one mile. We novv defcended a rapid, and proceeded Noith^-Weft feven miles and a half, North- Weft nine miles, North by Weft fixrailes. North- Weft by Weft one mile and a haif. North- Weft by Mo»'th half a mile, North-North- Weft fix miles, North one mile. North- Weft by Weft four miles, North-North- Eaft one mile. Here we arrived at the mouth of the Dog River, where we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at half paft feven in the evening, on the Eaft fide, and clofe by the rapids. At this ftation the river is lb //.fill ;ri;S ,*>iiiii jS;1' Jf near two leagues in breadth. i-iii At three o'clock in the morning we embarked, but unloaded our canoes at the firft rapid. When we had reloaded, we entered a fmall channel, which is formed by the iflands, and, in about half an hour, we came to the carrying place. It is three hundred and eighty paces in length, and very commodious, except at the further end of it. We found fome difficulty in reloading at this fpot, from the large quantity of ice which had not yet thawed. From hence to the next carrying place, called the Portage d'Embarras, is about fix miles, and is occafioned by the drift wood filling up the fmall channel, which is one thoufand and twenty paces in length ; from hence to the next is one mile and a half, while the diftance to that which fucceeds, does not exceed one hundred and fifty yards. It is about the fame length as the laft ; and from hence to the carrying place called the Mountain, is about four miles further ; when we entered the great river j The fmaller one,- or the channel, affords by far the beft paffage, as it is without hazard of any kind, though I believe a ftiorter courfe would be found on the outfide of the iflands, and without fo many carrying places. That called the Mountain is three hundred and thirty.five paces in length ; from thence to the next, named the Peli- can, Vss^iin s ii 1789. June. NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. . f can, there is about a mile of dangerous rapids. The landing is very fteep, and clofe to the fall. The length of this carrying-place is eight hundred and twenty paces. The whole of the party were now employed in taking the baggage and the canoe up the hill. One of the Indian canoes went down the fall J nd was daftied to pieces. The woman who had the management of it, by quitting it in time, preferved her life, though fhe loft the little property it contained. The courfe from the place we quitted in the morning is about North- * Weft, and comprehends a diftance of fifteen miles. From hence to the • V" next and laft carrying place, is about nine miles ; in which diftance there are three rapids : courfe North- Weft by Weft. The carrying path is very bad, and five hundred and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes being lightened, pafted on the outfide of the oppofite ifland, which ren- dered the carrying of the baggage very ftiort indeed, being not more than the length of a canoe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two canoes and fome packages loft, in the rapids on the other fide of the river, which occafioned this place to be called the Portage des Noyh, They were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of that year, under the direftion of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from hence fix miles, and encamped on Point de Roche, at half paft five in the afternoon. The men and Indians were very much fatigued ; but the hunters had provided feven geefe, a beaver, a, d four ducks, ' , We embarked at half paft two in the morning, and fteered North- Saturday 0. Weft by North twenty-one miles. North- Weft by Weft five miles, Weft- V ■- «•••"• ■vt«« iif • ^fki-m •>;. North- IN.; I J/' 1.' I f . 1 ,' m. f i ^ , 1 ' « Jii June. JOURNTAL Ofi A VOYAGE THROUGH THE North-Weft four miles, Weft fix miles, doubled a point North-North- Eaft one mile, Eaft five mileSj North two miles. North- Weft by North one mile and a half, Weft-North- Weft three miles, North-Eaft by Eaft two miles, doubled a point one mile and a half. Weft by North nine miles, North- Weft by 'Veft fix miles, North-North- Weft five miles; here we landed at fix o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and encamped. Nets were alfo let in a fmall adjacent river. We had a..i hend wind during the greater part of the day, and the weather was become I'o cold that the Indians were obliged to make ufe of their mittens. la this day's progrefs we killed feven geefe and fix ducks. *J«i^«A A-f« Sunday 7. At half pall three we renewed our voyage, and proceeded Weft- North- Weft one mile, round an ifland one mile, North-Weft two miles and a half. South by Weft three miles, Weft-South- Weft one mile. South- Weft by South half a mile, North- Weft three miles, Weft-North- Weft three miles and a half. North feven miles and a half. North- Weft by North four miles. North two miles and a half. North- Weft by North two miles. The rain, which had prevailed for fome time, now came on with fuch violence, that we were obliged to land and unload, to prevent the goods and baggage from getting wet; the weather, however, foon cleared up, fo that we reloaded the canoe, and got under way. We now continued our courfe North ten miles. Weft one mile and a half, and North one mile and a half, when the rain came on again, and rendered it abfo- lutely neceftary for us to get on ftiore for the night, at about half paft three. We had a ftrong North-North-Eaft wind throughout the day, which greatly impeded us ; M. Le Roux, however, with his party, pafled .v^ .„ *>n in fearch of a landing place more agreeable to them. The Indians killed a couple of geele, and as many ducks. The rain continued through the remaining part of the day. * The ^t NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 7 The night was very boifterous, and the rain did not ceafc till two in '7^9« the afternoon of this day; but as the wind did not abate of its violence, ^ j ; ^ ~'-g* we were prevented from proceeding till the morrow. M Jij» We embarlced at half paft two in the morning, the weather being calm Tucfday 9. and foggy. Soon after our two young men joined us, whom we had not feen for two days; but during their abfence they had killed four beavers and ten geefe. After a courfe of one mile Norths Weft by North, we bbferved an opening on the right, which we took for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. We returned and (leered South-Weft by Weft one mile and a half, Weft-South- Weft one mile and a half, Weft one mile, when we entered a very fmall branch of the river on the Eaft bank ; at the mouth of which I was informed there had been a carrying place, owing to the quantity of drift wood, which then filled up the paffage, but has fincc been carried away. The courfe of this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and in about ten miles falls into the Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the morn- ing, when we found a great change in the weather, as it was become extremely cold. The lake was entirely covered with ice, and did not feem in any degree to have given way, but near the Ihore. The gnats and mufkitoes which were very troublefome during our paffage along the river, did not venture to accompany us to this colder region, ^li.t*^ ■'"t""*i ^ '■ ■■«« iaa.'*.*iviW-S«lt;'Jo The banks of the river both above and below the rapids, were on both fides covered with the various kinds of wood common to this country ; particularly the Weftern fide; the land being lower and confift- ing of a rich black foil. This artificial ground is carried down by the ftream. m I 1789. June. .(f vcbl: JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE ftream, and refts upon drift wood, fo as to be eight or ten feet deep. The eaftern banks are more elevated, and the foil a yellow clay mixed with gravel ; fo that the trees are neither fo large or numerous as on the oppofite Ihore. The ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in depth ; notwithilanding the leaf was at its full growth ; while along the lake there was fcarcely any appearance of verdure. - "1 ■"*"* The Indians informed me, that, at a very fmall diftance from either bank of the river, are very extenfive plains, frequented by large herds of buffaloes ; while the moofe and rein-deer keep in the woods that border on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habi- tations in the fmall lakes and rivers, as, in the larger ilreams, the ice carries every thing along with it, during the fpring. The mud banks in the river are covered with wild fowl ; and we this morning killed two fwans, ten geefe, and one beaver, without fuffering the delay of an hour; fo that we might have foon' filled the canoe with them, if that had been our objedl. ,fi From the fmall river we (leered Eaft, along the infide of a long fand- bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened by a few willows, which ftretches on as far as the houfes erefted by Meffrs. Grant and Le Roux, in 1785. We often ran aground, as for five fucceffive miles the depth of the water no where exceeded three feet. There we found our people, who had arrived early in the morning, and whom we had not feen fince the preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our tents, as there was every appearance that we (hould be obliged to remain here for fome time. I then ordered the nets to be fet, as it was abfo- lutely NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AM£kiCA. hilcly nccefTary that the ftorts provided for our future voyagfe (hbuid remain untouched. The fifti we now caught were carp, poiffon in- conno, white fifh, and trout. V.I o >.- ' ■ , It rained during the greateft part of the preceding night, and the Wcdnef. to. weather did not clear up till the afternoon of this day. This circum- flance had very much weakened the ice, and I fent two of the Indians ort an hunting party to a. lake at the diftance of nine miles, which, they informed me, was frequented by animals of various kinds. Our fiO-"ry this day was not fo abundant as it had been on the preceding afternoon. The weather was fine and clear with a ftrong wefterly wind. The Thurfdayn. women were ehnployed in gathering berries of different forts, of which there are a great plenty ; and I accompanied one of my people to a fmall adjacent ifland, where we picked up forae dozens of fwan, geefe, and duck-eggs ; we alfo killed a couple of ducks and a goofe. 'o In the evening the Indians returned, without having feen any of the larger animals. A fwan and a grey crane were the only fruits of their expedition. We caught no other fifh but a fmall quantity of pike, which is too common to be a favourite food with the people of the country. The ice moved a little to the eaftward. " ^^*^' ''*'\ The weather continued the fame as yefterday, and the raufquitoes Friday began to vifit us in great numbers. The ice moved again in the fame direftion, and I afcended an hill, but could not perceive that it was broken in the middle of the lake. The hunters killed a goofe and three ducks. C The mZA I i\ ; ' ■i 'M 1789. JuAe. Saturday 13. 10 > JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE The Weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable till about fun^fet, when it fettled in the north. It drove back the ice which was now very much broken along the fliore, and covered our nets. One, of the hunters who bad been at the Slave River the preceding evening, returned with i . j.jfbj three beavers and fourteen geefe. He was accompanied by three families of Indians, who left Athabafca the fame day as myfelf : they did uot bring me any fowl ; and they pleaded in excufe, that they had tra- velled with fo much expedition, as to prevent them from procuring fuf- ficient provifions for themfelves. By a meridian line, I found the varia- tion of the compafs to be about twenty degrees eaft. ,-i Sunday 14. The wcather was clear and the wind remained in the fame quarter. The ice was much broken, and driven to the fide of the lake, fo that we were apprehenfive for the lofs of our nets, as they could not, at prefent, be extricated. At fun-fet there was an appearance of a violent guil of wind from the fouthward, as the fky became on a fudden, in that quarter, of a very dulky blue colour, and the lightning was very frequent. But inftead of wind there came on a very heavy rain, which promifed to diminilh the quantity of broken ice. Monday 15. In the moming, the bay ftill continued to be fo full of ice, that we could not get at our nets. About noon, the wind veered to the Weflward, and not only uncovered the nets, but cleared a paffage to the oppofite iflands. "When we raifed the nets we found them very much (battered, and but few fifh taken. We now ftruck our tents, and embarked at fun-fet, when we made the travcrfe, which was about eight miles North-Eaft by North in about two hours. At half pad eleven P. M. we htiM on a fhiall ..IT J i?!*-,. NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. fmall ifland and proceeded to gum the canoe. At this time the atmofphere was fuBiciently clear to admit of reading or writing without the aid of artificial light. We had not feen a ftar fince the fecond day after we left Athabafca. About twelve o'clock, the ri ..on made its appearance above the tops of the trees, the lower horn being in a ftate of eclipfe, which continued for about fix minutes, in a cloudlefs iky. U 1789. June. v;;U. i I took foundings three times in the courfe of the traverfe, when I found fix fathoms water, with a muddy bottom. ,,.,, -,i ^ .^,i,'„, .! We were prevented from embarking this morning by a very (Irong Tuefday 16. wind from the North, and the vafl quantity of floating ice. Some trout were caught with the hook and line, but the net was not fo fuccefsful. I had an obfervation which gave 61. 28. North latitude. ' ^n'*l Jca bi&ji •nry The wind becoming moderate, we embarked about one, taking a North- Weft courfe, through iflands of ten miles, in which we took in a confiderable quantity of water. After making leveral traverfqs, we landed at five P. M. and having pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and nets, were immediately fet. During the courfe of the day there v/as occafional thunder. '^^i-jT;-. f/'imiu^/r^-.MiT '•ji-< (."-^•f * 'tift'if "miif • .[:in?.^ We proceedco, and taking up our nets as we pafFed, we found no Wednef. 17 more than feventeen fifh, and were flopped within a mile by the ice. The Indians, however, brought us back to a point where our fifhery was very fuccefsful. They proceeded alfo on an hunting party, as well as to difcover a paffage among the iflands ; but at three in the after- , , - C 2 noon ■I f !» J789. June, 19 , JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE noon they returned without having fucccedcd in either objeft. We were, however, in expe6lation, that, as the wind blew very llrong, it would force a paflage. About fun-fet, th** weather became overcaft, with thunder, lightning, and rain. ThurfdayiS. The nets were taken up at four this morning with abundance of fi(h, and we fleered North- Weft four miles, where the ice again prevented our progrefs. A South-Eaft wind drove it among the iflands, in fuch a manner as to impede our paflage, and we could perceive at fome diftance a-head, that it was but little broken. We now fet our nets in four ' fkthom water. Two of our hunters had killed a rein-deer and its fawn. They had met with two Indian families, and in the evening, a man be- longing to one of them, paid us a vifit : he informed me, that the ice had not ftirred on the fide of the illand oppofite to us. Thefe people live entirely on filh, and were waiting to crofs the lake as foon as it fliould be clear of ice. •'» "^nwnfrv^ imivrmis. 1 This morning our nets were unproduftive, as they yielded us no more than fix filh, which were of a very bad kind. In the forenoon, the In- dians proceeded to the large ifland oppdite to us, in fearch of game. The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable : at the fame time, we were pellered by mufquitoes, though, in a great meafure, furrounded Friday 19. with ice,- •' • ^T-^^Wwnt»^ a.^A ,rfh). 'n'.»a'?f;'>/fl!l iitjb »f!'; 4 .rytiiCs^\-'f%itMm \ jUiii n*>d ion h ?;■' imo A bbii Tit ,t •Uiii 'jiiiu i it;( f»» I ' " ,1 ' "'1 CHAP. 'm m : i m I 'if t V r M .<>^: J -89. JillC. luclday ij. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE Ih CHAPTER IL .1., ai Jii ;v/ 9v/ .anew !j Landed ai fomt lodges of Red- Knife Indians: procure one of them to afjiji in navigating tlie bays. Conference with the Indians. Take leave of M. Le Roux, and continue the voyage. Different appearances of the land; its vegetable produce. Vifit an ifland where the wood hmi been felled. Further defcription of the Coafl. Plenty of rein and moofe-deer, and white partridges. Enter a very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blowing weather. Continue to coafl the bay. Arrive at the mouth of a river. Great numbers of ffh and wild-fowl. Defcription of the land on either fide. Curious appearance of woods that had been burned. Came in fight of the Horn Mountain. Continue to kill geefe and f wans , &c. Violentflorm. t # # X OWARDS morning, the Indians who had not been able to keep up with us the preceding day, now joined us, and brought two fwans and a goofe. At half pad three we re-embarked, and fleering Wed by North a mile and an hr^f, with a Northerly wind, we came to the foot of a traverfe acrofs a deep bay. Wed five miles, which receives a confiderable river at the bottom of it; the didance about twelve miles. The North-Wed fide of the bay was covered with many fmall iflands that were furrounded with ice; but the wind driving it a little off the land, we had a clear pafTage on the infide of them. We deered South- Wed nine miles under . , ^ail, NORTH-WEST CONTINENT O? AMERICA. »7 fail, then North-Weft nearly, through the iflands, forming a courfe of fixteen miles. We landed on the main land at half paft two in the after- noon at three lodges of Red- Knife Indians, fo called from their copper knives. They informed us, that there were many more lodges of their friends at no great diftance ; and one of the Indians fet oft" to fetch them : they alfo faid, that we ftiould fee no more of them at prefent ; as the Slave and Beaver Indians, as well as others of the tribe, would not be here till the time that the fwans caft their feathers. In the afternoon 1789. June. It ramed a torrent. V*.|; .yt-i, i*v,! ./ • .? a:>\ f M. Le Roux chafed of thefe Indians upwards of eight packs of Wednef. 14. good beaver and marten fl^ins ; and there were not above twelve o^ them qualified to kill beaver. The Englifti chief got upwards of an hundred fkins on the fcore of debts due to him, of which he had many outllanding in this country. Forty of them he gave on account of debts due by him (ince the winters of 1786 and 1787, at tlie Slave Lake; the reft he exchanged for rum and other neceftary articles ; and I added a fmall quantity of that liquor as an encouraging prefent to him and his young men. I had fcveral confultations with thefe Copper Indian people, but could obtain no information that was material to our expe- dition ; nor were they acquainted with any part of the river, which was the objc6l of my relcarch, but the mouth of it. In order to fiive as much time as poffible in circumnavigating the bays, I engaged one of the In- dians to condud us ; and I accordingly equipped him with various articles of clothing, &c. I alfo purchaleil a large new cauoCj that jie might embark with the two young Indians in my fcrvice. ',iu,u V';,nu , This day, at noon, I took an obfervation, wliich gave me 62. 2.\. North D latitude; SJt M 18 111 riwl KMm i 1789. June. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE latitude ; the variation of the compafe being about twenty-fix or twenty- feven degrees to the Eaft. ,.l.U- acrofs NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. acrofs the bay, which is here no more than two miles and a half broad, but, from the accounts or the natives, it is fifteen leagues in depth, with a much greater breadth in feveral parts, and full of iflands. I founded in the courfe of the traverfe and found fix fathoms with a fandy bottom. Here, the land has a very different appearance from that on which we hrfve been fince we entered the lake. Till we arrived here there was one continued view of high hills and iflands of folid rock, whofe furface was occafionally enlivened with mofs, fhrubs, and a few fcattered trees, of a very dinted growth from an in- fufficiency of foil to nourish them. But, notwithftanding their barren appearance, almofl: every part of them produces berries of various kinds, fuch as cranberries, juniper-berries, rafpberries, partridge berries, goofeberries, and the pathagomenan, which is fomething like a rafp- berry ; it grows on a I'mall fialk about a foot and a half high, in wet, mofly fpots. Thefe fruits are in great abundance, though they are not to be found in the fame places, but in fituations and afpe£ls fuited to their peculiar natures. .-^ ■■'%it''',v^ ^■■'■'' ■'''■^'^' :. ;. i »9 1789. June. V, •If m The land which borders the lake in this part is loofe and fandy, but is well covered with wood, compofed of trees of a larger growth : it gradually rifes from the fhore, and at fomc diftance forms a ridge of high land running along the coaft, thick with wood and a rocky fummit rifing above it. . -'^^ r- ^- -:'v_vyjj;. ;.•.>„ ,',.v;'j.i,c ;.-.;'>.* /•/ ,' We fl:eered South-Souih-Eaft nine miles, when we were very much interrupted by drifting ice, and with fome difficulty reached an ifland, where we landed at feven. I immediately proceeded to D 2 the i"' JOUkNAL OF A VOYAGfi THflOUGH THE the furtlier part of it, in order to difcdver if there was any probabilitjr of our being able to get from thence in tlie courfe of the day. It is about five thiles in circumference, and I was very much furprized to find that the greater part of the wood With which it was formerly co- vered; had been cut down within twelve or fifteen yearsj and that the remaining {lumps were become ahogether rotteti. On making inquiry concerning the caufe of this extraordinary circumftance, the Englifh chief informed me, that feveral winters ago, many of the Slave Indians inhabited the iflands that were fcattered over the bay, as the furrounding waters abound with f ^ throughout the year, but that they had been driven away by the Kniflenaux, who continually made war upon them. If an eftablifliment is to be made in this country, it muft be in the neigh- bourhood of this place on account of the wood and the filhery. Ml Friday 26. At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the wind had driven the greateft part of the ice paft the ifland, though we flill had to encounter fome broken pieces of it, which threatened to damage our canoe. We fleered South-Eaft from point to point acrofs five bays, twenty-one miles. We took foundings feveral times, and found from fix to ten fathom water. I obferved that the country gradually defcended inland, and was flill better covered with wood than in the higher parts. Wherever we approached the land, we perceived deferted lodges. The hunters killed two fwans and a beaver ; and at length we landed at eight o'clock in the evening, when we unloaded and gummed our canoe. We continued our route at five o'clock, fleering South-Eafl for ten miles acrofs two deep bays : then South-South-Ealt, with illands in fight to NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, 21 to the Eaftward. We then traverfed artothcr bay in a courfe of three miles, then South one mile to a point which we named th^ Detour, and South-South- Well four miles and an half, when there was an heavy fwell off the lake. Here I took an oblervation, when we were in 61. 40. North latitude. We then proceeded South- Weft four miles, and Weft-South-Weft among iilands : on one of which our Indians killed two rein-deer, but we loft three hours aft wind in going for them : this courfe was nine miles. About feven in the evening we were obliged to land for the night, as the wind became too ftrong from the South-Eaft. We thought we could obferve land in this dire6tion when the wind was coming on from fome diftance. On the other fide of the Detour, the land is low, and the ftiore is flat and dangerous, there being no fafe place to land in bad weather, except in the iflands which we had juft pafled. There feemed to be plenty of moofe and rein-deer in this country, as we faw their tracks wherever we landed. There were al fo great numbers of white partridges, which are at this fealbn of a grey colour, like that of the moor-fowl. There was fome floating ice in the lake, and the Indians killed a couple of fwans. •■'' f^v -Juj i .> i\i hr J789. June. * At three this morning we were in the canoe, aftex having pafled a very SatuiJay 27. reftlefs night from the perfecution of the mufquitoes. The weather was line and calm, and our courfe Weft-South-Weft nine miles, when we came to the foot of a traverfe, the oppofite point in light bearing South- Weft, dlQance twelve miles. The bay is at leaft eight miles deep, and this courfe two miles more, in all ten miles. It now became very foggy, and as the bays were fo numerous, we landed for two hours, when the weather cleared up ; and we took the advantage of ftcering South thirteen miles, . . and m ^m "UJ 1789. June. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE and pafled feveral fmall bays, when we came to the point of a very deep one, whofe extremity was not difcernible ; the land bearing South from us, at the diftance of about ten miles. Our guide not having been here for eight winters, was at a lofs what courfe to take, though as well as he could recolleft, this bay appeared to be the entrance of the river. Ac- cordingly, we fleered down it, about Weft-South- Weft, till we were in- volved in a field of broken ice. We ftill could not difcover the bottom of the bay, and a fog coming on, made it very difficult for us to get to an ifland to the South-Weft, and it was nearly dark when we effe£led a landing. Hi Sunday 28. At a quarter paft three we were again on the water, and as we could perceive no current fetting into this bay, we made the beft of our way to the point that bore South from us yefterday afternoon. We con- tinued our courfe South three miles more, South by Weft feven miles. Weft fifteen miles, when by obfervation we were in 6i degrees North latitude; we then proceeded Weft- North- Weft two miles. Here we came to the foot of a traverfe, the oppofite land bearing South- Weft, ' diftance fourteen miles, when we fteered into a deep bay, about a Wefterly courfe; and though we had no land a head in fight, we in- dulged the hope of finding o paflage, which, according to the Indian, would condufl u*! to the entrance of the river. Having a ftrong wind aft, we loft fight of the Indians, nor could we put on fliore to wait for them, without rifldng material damage to the canoe, till we ran to the bottom of the bay, and were forced among the rufties ; when we difcovered that there was no paftage there. In about two or three hours they joined us, but would not approach our fire, NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 23 fire, as there was no good ground for an encampment: they emptied ^1^9- their canoe of the water which it had taken in, and continued their <— -^- — ; route, but did no^ encamp till fun-fet. The EngliQi chief was very much irritated againft the Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder him, for having undertaken to guide us in a courfe of which he was ignorant; nor had we any reafon to be fatisfied with him, though he Itill continued to encourage us, by declaring that he recollefted having pafled from the river, through the woods, to the pl.".ce where he had landed. In the blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to make ufe of our large kettle, to keep our canoe from filling, although we did not carry above three feet fail. The Indians very narrowly efcaped. '■] We embarked at four this evening, and fleered along the South- Monday ag. Welt fide of the bay. At half paft five we reached the extremity of the point, which we doubled, and found it to be the branch or paffage that was the objeft of our fearch, and occafioned by a very long ifland, which feparates it from the main channel of the river. It is about half a mile acrofs, and not more than fix feet in depth; the water appeared to abound in fi(h, and was covered with fowl, fuch as fwans, geefej and feveral kinds of ducks, particularly black ducks, that were very numerouo, but we could not get within gun fhot of them. ,. », • ■. ■ - •' ■ . . The current, though not very ftrong, fet us South-Weft by Weft, and we followed this courfe fourteen miles, till we pafled the point of the long ifland, where the Slave Lake dif charges itfelf, and is ten miles in breadth. There is not more than from five to two fathom water, lb that when the lake is low, it may be prefumcd the greateft part of rw ^ :«'j i'iiiuk:.-- lU Vff'ii this I m f 1789. June. m JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE this channel muft be dry. The river now turns to the weftward, becoming gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it is not more than half a mile wide; the current, however, is then much Itronger, and the foundings were three fathom and a half. The land on the North fhore from the lake is low, and covered with trees ; that to the South is much higher, and has alfo an abundance of wood. The current is very ftrong, and the banks are of an equal height on both fides, confifting of a yellow clay, mixed with fmall Hones; they are covered with large quantities of burned wood, lying on the ground, and young poplar trees, that have fprung up fince the fire that deflroyed the larger wood. It is a very curious and extraordinary circumftance, that land covered with fpruce pine, and white birch, when laid wafte by fire, fhould fubfe- quently produce nothing but poplars, where none of that fpecies of tree were previoully to be found. A fliff breeze from the Eaftward drove us on at a great rate under fail, in the fame courle, though obliged to wind among illands. We kept the North channel for about ten miles, whofe current is much ftronger than that of the South; fo that the latter is conlequently the better road to come up. Here the river widened, and the wind dying away, we had recourfe to our paddles. We kept our courie to the North- Weft, on the North fide of the river, which is here much wider, and aflumes the form of a Imall lake ; we could not, however, difcover an opening in any direftion, fo that we were at a lofs what courle to take, as our Red-Knife Indian had never ex- plored beyond our prefent fituation. He at the fame time informed us that a river falls in from the North, which takes its rife in the Horn Mountain, now in fight, which is the country of the Beaver Indians ; and «5 1789. Ju..e. NQRTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. and that he and his relations frequently r^ on that river. He alfo added," that there arc very extenfive plain. both fides of it, which abound in binffaloes and inoofe deer, iml srff . ir ^4 h^ff^rtoirh ^ms-f ' -• fn f\ -f .- Lf'_ I-I.,, f--^...1 lk.t»«« AOfl^MJi j^ «^.'. M ^ !»«>* . f^9 (%£k.rK4--«'t^-~^ri<-.-.W If'^tA.ISif* ■I I ^. »T T ■■* <; . r . -( . '.-..-;*» i ; - ..'■.""■ T . . , By keeping this courfe, we got into (hallows, fo that we were forced to lUer to the left, till we recovered deep water, which we followed, till the channel of the river opened on us to the fouthward. we now made for the (hore, and encamped foon after funfet. Our courfe ought to have been Weft fifteen miles, fince we took to the paddle, the Horn Mountains bearing from us North-Weft, and running North-North-Eaft and South-South- Weft. Our foundings, which were frequent during the courfe of the day, were from three to fix fathoms water. The hunters killed two geefe and a fwan : it appeared, indeed, that great numbers of fowls breed in the iflands which we had paffed. At four this morning we got under way, the weather being fine and Tuefday 30. calm. Our courfe was South-Weft by South thirty-fix miles. On the South fide of the river is a ridge of low mountains, running Eaft and Weft by compafs. The Indians picked up a white goofe, which appeared to have been lately fliot with an arrow, and was quite frefti. We proceeded South-Weft by South fix miles, and then came to a bay on our left, which is full of fmall iflands, and appeared to be the entrance of a river from the South. Here the ridge of mountains terminates. This courfe was fifteen miles. .. '■■'-. ' ; , , .1. - ' *\' ' : ' - MAliJ ^ ' . ^: <..:>., . •'- At fix in the afternoon there was an appearance of bad weather; we landed, therefore, for the night : but before we could pitch our tents, a M violent ■■*■.., .'■ H i* m ■'\^ (IP 1789. June. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE violent tempeft came on, with thunder, lightning, and rain, which, how- ever, foon ceafed, but not before we had fufFered the inconvenience of being drenched by it. The Indians were very much fatigued, having been employed in running after wild fowl, which had lately call their feathers ; they, however, caught five fwans, and the fame number of geefe. I founded fcveral times in the courfe of the day, and found from four to fix fathoms water jt;nfM«iii * ' '^-ilri&K «»! m»/rl <',nJt>J»i?*iCj D-Mwtsirf .' ,.,. ;lNAr>d^fw<) .^fibW>iffimP ;ft:!of^ hoc .Ufi3-tiMoH-MjioH ,b*»^!3ni ,; :^ tYifi- ^i : tiAifl « bisi^ ohrs^^-bw^ Mfcilt.irlalfttwi 9il«lk .t^fiv/ r JrJfefiq bwi ftv-f rfi«i(lvf Mbf»ii»tii «lv/ >Mo n^dmun Jfiji^ Ud\ iir)iit'^ 4'.'^f'<>8 oi{«w c cj« h'^rf'>iq inn^K»| adT .-slxjfijpia) vnl 11^7/ ■ ' ' ' I CHAP. i' , . •'] ' NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 27 .) CHAPTER III. Continue our cour/e. The river narrows. Loft the lead, Pajfed a fmall river. Violent rain. Land on a fmall ijland, ExpeR to arrive at the rapids. Conceal two bags qfpemican in an ijland, A view of mountains. Fafs feveral encampments of the natives. Arrive among the ijlands. Afcend an high hill. Violence of the current. Icefeen along the banks of the river. Land at a village of the natives. Their conduB and appearance, Their fabulous flories. The Englijh Chief and Indians difcontented. Obtain a new guide. Singular cuftoms of the natives. An account of their dances, Defcription of their perfons, drefs, orna- ments, buildings, army for war and hunting, canoes, &c. Pajfed on among ijlands. Encamped beneath an hill, and prevented from afcending by the mufpiitoes. Landed at an encampment. ConduSt of the inha- bitants. They abound in fabulous accounts of dangers. Land at other encampments. Procure plenty of hares and partridges. Our guide anxious to return. Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare Indians, &c. Exchange our guide. State of the weather. J r^|-^» r*»W«> .14 ■1 I j.fcil xjlT half pad four in the morning we continued our voyage, and in a (hort time found the river narrowed to about half a mile. Our courfe was Wcfterly among iflands, with a (Irong current. ThougJi the land is high on both fides, the banks arc not perpendicular. This E 2 courfe 178.). VVednel. 1' ■! ,"1 111 li u ;! 11 28 1789. July. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE courfe was twenty-one miles ; and on founding we found nine fathoms water. We then proceeded Weft-North-Weft nine miles, and pafled a river upon the South-Eaft fide; we founded, and found twelve fathoms; and then we went North- Weft by Weft three miles. Here I loft my lead) which had faftened at the bottom, with part of the line, the current running fo ftrong that we could not clear it with eight paddles, and the ftrength of the line, which was equal to four paddles. Continued North by Weft five miles, and faw an high mountain, bearing South from us ; we then proceeded North- Weft by North four miles. We now pafled a fmall river on the North fide, then doubled a point to Weft-South- Weft. At one o'clock there came on lightning and thunder, with wind and rain, which ce^ed in about half an hour, and left us almoft de- luged with wet, as we did not land. There were great quantities of ice alonff the banks of the river. , - , We landed upon a fmall Hiand, where 'liefe were the poles of four lodges ftanding, which vve concluded to have belonged to the Knifti- neaux, on their war excurfions, fix or fcven years ago. This courfe was fifteen miles Weft, to where the river of the Mountain falls in from the Southward. It appears to be a very large river, whole mouth is half a mile broad. About fix miles further a fmall river flows in the fame direftion; and our whole courfe was twenty-four miles. We landed oppofife to an iiland, the mountains to the Southward being in fight, As our canoe was deeply ladt^rt, dhd bdlhg affb in daily ex- peftation of coming to the rapids of fall, which we htld been thu^ht to confidcr with npprehenfion, wc concealed two bags of pettiican in the oppolitc ifland, in the hope Ihat they would be of future fervice to us. The K ^'1 VT NORTH-WEST CONTINENT O^ AtoRICAi Th6 Indians were of a different opinion, as th^y ehtertdined no expec- i&iioh of returning that feafori, When thfe hidden provifidns would be f^oilied. Near us were tWb Indian i^ncampments of the laft year. By the manner in which thefb people cut thfiir wood, it appears that they have no ifon tools. The current was very flrohg during the whole of this day's voyage ; and in the article of proVifionS two fWans were all that the hunters were able to procure. 29 1789. July. ,rU»-i. r* . .nth ,;g- i'SHl ' The morning was very foggy; but at half pad five we embarked; it Thurfday 2. cleared up, however, at fevcn, when we difcovered ihat the water, from being very limpid and clear, was become dark and muddy. This alter- ation mull have proceeded from the influx of fome river to the South- ward, but where thefc dreams firll blended their waters the fog had prevented us from obferving. At nine we pierceivied a very high moun- tain a-head, which appeared, on our nearer approach, to be rather a duller of mountains, firetchihg aS far as our view could reach to the Southward, and whofe tops were loll in thd clouds. At noon there was Hghtning, thunder, and rain, and at one, we came abreall of the moun- tains : their fummits appeared to be barren and rocky, but their declivi- ties W6rfe toVdred with wood : they appeared alfo to be fprinkled with white (tones, which glillened in the fun, and were called by the Indians mafietoe a/iniah, or fpirit ftones. I fufpe6led that they were Talc, though they poHelFed a more brilliant whitenefs : on our return, however, thefc appearances were dillblved, as they were nothing more than patches of Our courfe had been Weft-South -Weft thirty miles, and we pro- ceeded ■t VI ■^m ,.vi' m ti 30 1789. .■ -■ 'At'A" Friday 3. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE ceeded with great caution, as we continually expefted to approach fome great rapid or fall. This was fuch a prevalent idea, that all of us were occafionally perfuaded that we heard thofe founds which betokened a fall of water. Our courfe changed to Weft by North, along the mountains, twelve miles, North by Weft twenty-one miles, and at eight o'clock in the evening we went on ftiore for the night on the North fide of the river. We faw feveral encampments of the natives, fome of which had been erefted in the prefent I'pring, and others at fome former period. The hunters killed only one fwan and a beaver : the latter was the firft of its kind which we had feen in this river. The Indians complained of the perfeverance with which we puftied forward, and that they were not accuftomed to fuch fevere fatigue as it occafioned. ^^^ ^^^.^ lUfm (itMl« The rain was continual through the night, and did not lubiide till feven this morning, when w^e embarked and fteered North-North- Weft for twelve miles, the river being enclofed by high mountains on either fide. We had a ftrong head-wind, and the rain was fo violent as to compel us to land at ten o'clock. According to my reckoning, fince my laft obfcrvation, we had run two hundred and feventeen miles Weft, and forty-four miles North. At a quarter pail two the rain fubfided, and wc got again under way, our former courfe continuing for five miles. Here a river fell in from the North, and in a ftiort time the current be- came ftrong and rapid, running with great rapidity among rocky iilands, which were the Brit that wc had feen in this river, and indicated our near approach to rapids and falls. Our prefent courfe was North- Weft by North ten miles. North- Weft three miles, Wefl-North-Weft twelve miles, and North- Weft three miles, wlien wc encamped at eight • NORtH-WESTCONTINENT OF AMERICA. - in the evening, at the foot of an high hill, on the north {hore, which in n^- . . . . J"*y* feme parts •■ofe perpendicular from the river. I immediately afcended it* <——>'—■ accompanied by two men and fome Indians, and in about an hour and an half, with very hard walking, we gained the fummit, wh "n I was very much furprized to find it crowned by an encampment. The Indians in- formed me, that it is the cuftom of the people who have no arms to choofe the^j elevated fpots for the places of their refidence, as they can render them inaccelTible to their enemies, particularly the Knllleneaux, of whom they are in continual dread. The profpeft from this height was not fo extenfive as we expefted, as it was terminated by a circular range of hills, of the fame elevation as that on which we flood. The in- tervals between the liills were covered with fmall lakes, which were inha- bited by great numbers of fwans. We faw no trees but the pine and the birch, which were fmall in f.ze and few in number, yjj^i* '■inNiui t;uoi We were obliged to fhorten our flay here, from the fwarms of muf- quitoes which attacked us on all fides, and were, indeed, the only in- habitants of the place. We faw feveral encampments of the natives in the courfc of the day, but none of them were of this year's cftablifli- ment. Since four in the afternoon the current had been fo ftrong that it was, at length, in an a£lual ebullition, and produced an hiffing noife like a kettle of water in a moderate (late of boiling. The weather was now become extremely cold, which was the more fenfibly felt, as it had been very fultry (ome time before and fince we had been in the river. ^ At five in the morning the wind and weather having undergone no Saturday. alteration from yellcrday, we proceeded North- Weil by Wed twenty-two miles, 3» * m hi ■; ■■ lit f i" I ■ ■ ■' .|i i ' H i I 15 li I 111 1 I I .. 1 ! ,1 i ') \1 w .789. ^ JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE miles, North-Weft fix miles, North-Weft by North four miles, and Weft North- Weft five miles : we then pafled the mouth of a fmall river from the North, and after doubling a point, South-Weft one mile, we pafTed the influx of another river from the South. We then continued our courfe North-North- Weft, with a mountain a-head, fifteen miles, when the opening of two rivers appeared oppofite to each other : we then pro- ceeded Weft four miles, and North- Weft thirteen miles. At ejght in the evening, we encamped on an ifland. The current was as ftrong througli .the whole of this day as it had been the preceding afternoon ; neverthelefs, a quantity of ice appeared along the banks of the river. The hunters killed a beaver and a goofe, the former of which funk before they could get to him : beavers, otters, bears, &c. if {hot dead at once, remain like a bladder, but if there remains enough of life for them to ftruggle, they foon fill with water and go to the bottom. Sunday 5. Thc fun fct laft night at fifty-three minutes paft nine, by njy watch, and rofe at feven minutes before two this morning : we embarked fooa after, fteering North-North- Weft, through iflands for five miles, and Weft four miles. The river then cncreafed in breadth, and the current began to ilackcn in a fmall degree; after the continuation of our courfe, we perceiv- ed a ridge of high mountains before us, covered with fnow, Weft-Soulh- Weft ten miles, and at three-quarters paft feven o'clock, we faw fevcral fmokes on the North ftjore, which wc made everv exertion to approach. As we drew nearer, we difcovcred the natives running about in great ap- parent confufion; fome were making to the woods, and others hurryin;; ;. >v8 *o their canoes. Our hunters landed before us, and flddrelfed the lew that had not elcapcd, in the Cl»pewyan language, which, To great was ,i:;,'i'm their t M5lttH-\VEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. their confufion and terror, they did not appear to underftand. But when they perceived that it was impoflible to avoid us, as we were all landed, they made us figns to keep at a diftance, with which we com- plied, and not only unloaded our canoe, but pitched our tents, be- fore we made any attempt to approach them. During this interval, the Englifh chief and his young nen were employed in reconciling them to our arrival : and when they had recovered from their alarm, of hoftilc intention, it appeared that fome of them perfeftly com- prehended the language of our Indians ; fo that they were at length perfuaded, though not without evident figns of relu61ance and appre- henfion, to come to us. Their reception, however, foon diflipated their fears, and they hafteneu to call their fugitive companions from their hiding places. .. v — — ,.^ . ,^^- 1 ,.,.._ :^.. There were five families, confifting of twentv-five or thirty perfons, and of two different tribes, the Slave and Dog rib Indians. We made them fmoke, though it was evident they did not know the ufe of tobacco ; we likewife fupplied them with grog; but I am difpofed to think, that they accepted our civilities rather from fear than inclination. We ac- ijuired a more effeftual influence over them by the dillribution of knives, beads, awls, rings, gartering, fite-lleels, flints, and hatchets ; fo that they became more familiar even than we expefted, for we could not keep them out of our tents : though I did not obferve that they attempted to purloin any thing. ^^ '"•« i" Vsivb %t! r>m ,i>i«l '>' jT-)";' ;; ^r/5j7mi:K) r.a r •iifi i/3i*i 1789. The information which they gave refpeding the river, had fo much of the fabulous, that I fhall not detail it : it will be fuflicient juft -> ly- s to ^ If it 4\ •V, . »i 34 1789. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE to mention their attempts to perfuade us, that ir, would require feveral winters to get to the fea, and that old age would come upon us before the period of our return : we were alfo to encounter monllers of fuch horrid fhapes and deftruftive powers as could only exift in their wild imaginations. They added, befides, that there were two impafTable falls in the river, the firft of which was about thirty days march from us. Though I placed no faith in thefe ftrange relations, they had a very different effeft upon our Indians, who were already tired of the voyage. It was their opinion and anxious wi(h, that we fhould not hefitate to return. They faid that, according to the information which they had received, there were very few animals in the country beyond us, and that as we proceeded, the fcarcity would increafe, and we ftiould abfo- lutely perilh from hunger, if no other accident befel us. It was with no finall trouble that they were convinced of the folly of thefe reafonings ; and, by my defire, they induced one of thofe Indians to accompany us, in confi deration of a fmall kettle, an axe, a knife, and fome other articles. Though it was now three o'clock in the afternoon, the canoe was ordered to be reloaded, and as we were ready to embark our new recruit was defired to prepare himfelf for his departure, which he would have declined; but as none of his friends would take his place, we may be faid, after the delay of an hour, to have compelled him to embark. Previous to his departure a ceremony took place, of which I could not learn the meaning: he cut off a lock of his hair, and having divided it into three parts, he failened one of them to the hair on the =. i upper North-west CONTINENT OF AMERICA, upper part of his wife's head, blowing on it three times with the utmoflr violence in his power, and uttering certain words. The other two he faflened with the fame formalities, on the heads of his two children. ^ i During our (hort (lay with thefe people, they amufed us with dancing, which they accompanied with their voices ; but neither their fong or their dance poifeffed much variety. The men and women formed a pro- mifcuous ring. The former have a bone dagger or piece of ftick be- tween the fingers of the right hand, which they keep extended above the head, in continual motion : the left they feldom raife fo high, but work it backwards and forwards in an horizontal direftion ; while they leap about and throw themfelves into vaiious antic poftures, to the meafure of their mufic, always bringing their heels clofe to each other at every paufe. The men occafionally howl in imitation of fome animal, and he who continues* this violent exercife foi the longeft period, appears to be confidered as the beft performer. The women fuffer their arms to hang as without the power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, ill- made pc?ole, particularly about the legs, which are very clumfy and co- vered with fcabs. The latter circumftance proceeds probably from their habitually roatting them before the fire. Many of them appeared to be in a very unhealthy Itate, which is owing, as I imagine, to their natural (ilthinefs. They are of a moderate ftature, and as far as could be difco- vered, through the coat of dirt and greafc that covers them, are of a fairer complexion than the generality of Indians who are the natives of warmer climates. >t ...ii J,, .a ■. I.il .Itiv 1/T t\j:-tt , ■titn-.t Some of them have their hair of a great length; while others fuffer a long trefs to fall behind, and the reft is cut fo fliort as to expofe F 2 their 35 1789. July. « !L;^ \^: I i--"^i :il 1789. July. t JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE their ears, but no other attention whatever is paid to it. The beards of fome of the old men were long, and the rell had them pulled out by the roots, fo that not an hair could be feen on their chins. The men have two double lines, either black or blue, tattooed upon each cheek, from the ear to the nofe. The griftle of the latter is perforated fo as to admit a goofe-quill or a fmall piece of wood to be paffed through the orifice. Their clothing is made of the dreffed fkins of the rein or moofe- deer, though more commonly of the former. Thefe they prepare in the hair for winter, and make fhirts of both, which reach to the middle of their thighs. Some of them are decorated with an embroidery of very neat workmanfhip with porcupine quills and the hair of the moofe, coloured red, black, yellow, and white. Their upper garments are fuf- f.ciently large to cover the whole body, wi*h a fringe round the bottom, and are ufed both fleeping and awake. Their leggins come half way up the thigh, and are fcwed to their (hoes : they are embroidered round the ancle, and upon every feam. The drefs of the women is the fame as that of the men. The former have no covering on their private parts, except a taffel of leather which dangles from a fmall cord, as it appears, to keep off the flies, which would otberwife be very troublefome. "Whether circumcifion be praflifed among them, I cannot pretend to lay, but the appearance of it was general among thofe whom I faw. Their ornaments confift of gorgets, bracelets for the arms and wrifts, made of wood, horn, or bone, belts, garters, and a kind of band to go round the head, compofed of drips of leather of one inch and an half broad, embroidered with porcupine quills, and fluck round with the claws of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are fufpended a few fliort Uiongs of the fkin of an animal that ref^mbles the ermine, in the form ■■■ -^■' ■-, . ' • ■ ■1 J I NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA: of a taflel. Their cinftures and garters are formed of porcupine (jmUIs woven with finews, in a ftyle of peculiar fldll and neatnefs : they hjive others of different materials, and more ordinary workmanfliip ; and lo both they attach a long fringe of firings of leather, worked round with hair of various colours. Their mittens are alfo fufpended from the neck in a pofition convenient for the reception of the hands. „ ,._ 37 Ji»ilV<^-«^Ji yi* 7it i!. ::)«;*v, Their lodges are of a very fimple ftruflure : a few poles fupported by a for'<^. and forming a femicirele at the bottom, with fome branches or a piece of bark as a covering, conftituf.es the whole of their native architec- ture. They build two of thefe huts facing each other, and make the fire between them. The furniture harmonifes with the buildings : they have a few diflies of wood, bark, of horn ; the vefTels in which they cook their viftuals, are in the ftiape of a gourd, narrow at the top and: vide at the bottoni, and of watape*, fabricated in fuch a manner as to hold water, which is made to boil by putting a fucceffion of red-hot Hones into it. Thefe veflels contain from two to fix gallons. They have a num* ber of fmall leather bags to hold their embroidered work, lines, and nets« They always keep a large quantity of the fibres of willow bark, which they^ work into thread on their thighs.. Their nets are from three to forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to thirty-fix meflies in depth. The fhort deep ones they fet in the eddy current of rivers, and the long ones in the lakes. They likewife make lines of the finews of the rein-deer, and manufa6lure their hooks from wood, horn, or bone. Their arms and weapons for hunting, are bows and arrows, fpears, daggers, and poga- • Watape is the name given to the clivicU 1 root.s of the fpruce-fir, which the natives weave into a dfRicc of compartntls that renders it capable of containing a fli id. The different parts of the bark' canoes are allia Icwcd together with this kind of filament. 1739. — V— magans i< 3^ il I «!. V I'i , 1789. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE raaganS). or clubs. The bows are about five or fix feet in length, and the firings are of finews or raw (kins. The arrows are two feet and an half long, including the barb, which is varioufly formed of bone, horn, flint, iron, or copper, and are winged with three feathers. The pole of the fpears is about fix feet in length, and pointed with a barbed bone of ten inches. With this weapon they flrike the rein-deer in the water. The daggers are flat and (harp-pointed, about twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. The pogamagon is made of the horn of the rein-deer, the branches being all cut off, except that which forms the extremity. This inftrument is about two feet in length, and is employ- ed to difpatch their enemies in battle, and fuch animals as they catch in fnares placed for that purpofe. Thele are about three fathom long, and are made of the green (kin of the rein or moofe-deer, vut in fuch fmall flrips, that it requires from ten to thirty ftrands to make this cord, which is not thicker than a cod-line; and ftrong enough to refift' any animal that can be entangled in it. Snares or nooies are alfo made of finews to take lelTer animals, fuch as hares and white partridges, which are very numerous. Their axes are manufaftured of a piece of brown or grey (lone from fix to eight inches long, and two inches thick. The infide is flat, and the outfide round and tapering to an edge, an inch wide. They are fattened by the middle with the flat fide inwards to an handle two feet long, with a cord of green (kin. This is the tool with -which they fplit their wood, and we believe, the only one of its kind among them. They kindle fire, by (Iriking together a piece of white or yellow pyrites and a flint (lone, over a piece of touchwood. They are univerfally provided with a fmall bag containing thefe materials, ib that they are in a continual (late of preparation to produce fire. From the ad- ?;; n ' • ' joining NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 39 joining tribes, the Red-Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in barter for marten fkins and a few beaver, fmall pieces of iron, of which they manufafture knives^ by fixing them at the end of a fhort flick, and with them and the beaver's teeth, they finifh all their work. They keep tlicn-i in a fheath hanging to their neck, which alfo contains their awls both of iron and horn. 1789. July- Their canoes are fmall, pointed at both ends, flat-bottomed and co- vered in the fore part. They are made of the bark of the birch-tree and fir-wood, but of i'o flight a conflruftion, that the man whom one of thefe light veflels bears on the water, can, in return, carry it over land with- out any difficulty. It is very feldom that more than one perfon embarks- in them, nor are they capable of receiving more than two. The paddles are fix feet long, one half of which is occupied by a blade, of about eight inches wide. Thefe peopl« informed us, that we had pafled large bodies of Indians who inhauit the mountains on the Eaft fide of the river. -c I At four o'clock in the afternoon we embarked, and our Indian ac- quaintance promifed to remain on the bank of the river till the fall, in cafe we fliouid return. Our courfe was Wefl:-South-Wefl;, and we foon pafled the Great Bear Lake River, which is of a confiderable depth, and an hundred yards wide : its water is clear, and has the greenifli hue of the fea. We had not proceeded more than fix miles when we were obliged to land for the night, in confequence of an heavy gult of wind, accom- panied with rain. We encamped beneath a rocky hill, on the top of which, according to the information of our guide, it blew a fl:orm every day yj i«' f III ' » 40 — V'- Mondty 6. Tuefday 7. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE day throughout the year. He found himfelf very uncomfortable in his new fiuiation, and pretended that he was very ill, in order that he ftiight be permitted to return to his relations. '1 o prevent his cfcape, it became neced'ary to keep a ih'iEt watch over him during the night. At three o'clock, in a very raw and cloudy morning, wc embarked, and (leered Weft-South- Wed four miles, Well four miles, W^eft-North- Weil five miles, Weft eight miles, Weft by South fixteen miles, Weft twenty-fevcn miles. South- Weft nine miles, then Weft fix miles, and encamped at half paft feven. We pafled through numerous iflands, and had the ridge of fnowy mountains always in fight. Our condu6lor informed us that great numbers of bears, and fmall white buffaloes, frequent thole mountains, which are alfo inhabited by Indians. We encamped in a fimilar fituation to that of the preceding evening, beneath another high rocky hill, which I attempted to afcend, in company with one of the hunters, but before we had got halfway to the funmiit, we were almoft fuffbcated by clouds of mufquitoes, and were obliged to return. I obferved, however, that the mountains terminated here, and that a river flowed from the Weftward: I alfo difcovered a ftrong ripling current, or rapid, which ran clofe under a fteep precipice of the hill. We embarked at four in the morning, and crofted to the oppo- fite fide of the river, in confequence of the rapid; but we -night have fpared ourfclves this trouble, as there would have been no dan- ger in continuing our courle, without any circuitous deviation what- ever. This circumftance convinced us of the erroneous account given by the natives of the great and approacliing dangers of our navigation, '•^ ' as NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 41 as'this rapid was ilated to be one of them. Our courfe was now North- North-Wefl three miles, Weft-North-Weft four miles, North-Weft ten miles. North two miles, when we came to a river that flowed from the Eaftward. Here we landed at an encampment of four fires, all the inhabitants of which ran off with the utmoft fpeed, except an old man ana an old woman. Our guide called aloud to the fugitives, and entreated them to ftay, but without effeft: the old man, however, did not hefitate to approach us, and reprelented himfelf as too far advanced in life, and too indifferent about the fliort time he had to remain in the world, to be very anxious about efcaping from any danger that threatened him ; at the fame time he pulled his grey hairs from his head by handfulls to diftribule among us, and implored our favour for himfelf and his rela- tions. Our guide, however, at length removed his fears, and perfuaded him to recall the fugitives, who confifted of eighteen people; whom I reconciled to me on their return with prefents of beads, knives, awls, &c, with which they appeared to be greatly delighted. They differed in no refpcCl from thole whom we had already Icon ; nor were they defi- cicnt in holj)itable attentions; they provided us with fifh, which was very well boiled, and cheerfully accepted by us. Our guide Rill fickcncd after his home, and was fo anxious to return thither, that we were under the neccllity of forcing him to embark. .. ..„.. ,, .„, , June. •Ij. )M Thcfe people informed us that ve were clofe to another great rapid, and that there M-cre icveral lodges of their relations in its vicinity. Four canoes, with a man in each, followed us, to point out the par- ticular channels wc (hould follow for the iccurc pall'agu of the rapid. They alio abounded in d'fcournging ftories concerning the dangers and difficullies which wc were lo encounter. Q ^ , From |.J 4» »789.' July. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE From hence our courfe was North-North-Eaft two miles, when the river appeared to be enclofed, as it were, with lofty, perpendicular, white rocks, which did not afford us a very agreeable profpeft. We now went on fhore in order to examine the rapid, but did riot perceive any ligns of it, though the Indians ftill continued to magnify its dangers: however, as they ventured down it, in their fmall canoes, our appre- henlions were confequently removed, and we followed them at fome diftance, but did not find any increafe in the rapidity of the current; at length the Indians informed us that we fhould find no other rapid but that which was now bearing us along. The river at this place is not above three hundred yards in breadth, but on founding I found fifty fathoms water. At the two rivulets that offer their tributary flreams from either fide, we found fix families, confifting of about thirty-five perfons, who gave us an ample quantity of excellent fifh, which were, however, confined to white fifh, the poifl'on inconnu, and another of a round form and grechifh colour, which was about fourteen inches in length. We gratified them with a few prefents, and continued our voyage. The men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes* This narrow channel is three miles long, and its courfe North-Northr- Eafl. We then fleered North three milcs» and landed at an encampv- mcnt of three or more families, containing twenty-two perfons, which was fituttted on. the bank of a river, of a confiderable appearance, which came from tlic Eaflward. We obtained hares and partridges from thefe people, and prelcntcd ia return fuch articles as greatly delighted them. They very much regretted that they had no goods or merchandize to exchange with us\ a5 they had left them at a lake^ from whence the river iifuedii i N»"r NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. HTued, and in whofe vicinity fome of their people were employed in fetting fnares for rein deer. They engaged to go for their articles of trade, and would wait our return, which we affured them would be within two months. There was a youth among them in the capacity of a (lave, whom our Indians underflood much better than any of the natives of this country, whom they had yet leen : he was invited to accompany us, but took the firll opportunity to conceal bimfelf, and we f'aw him no more. We now Ileered Weft five miles, when we again landed, and found two families, containing leven people, but had reafon to believe that there were others hidden in the woods. We received from them two dozen of hares, and they were about to boil two more, which they alfo gave us. We were not ungrateful for their kindnefs, and left them. Our coarfe was now North- Well four miles, and at nine we landed and pitched our tents, when one of our people killed a grey crane. Our condu6lor renewed his complaints, not, as he aflured us, from any apprehenfion of our ill-treatment, but of the Efquimaux, whom he reprelented as a very wicked and malignant people; who would put us all to death. He added, alfo, that it was but two fuininers fince a large party of them came up this river, and killed many of his relations. Two Indians followed us from the laft lodges. 43 1789. % I At half paft two in the morning wc embarked, and Ileered a WcHerly Wcdncf. 8, courfe, and foon after put afhorc at two lodges of nine Indians. Wc made them a few trifling prcfcnts, but without difembarking, and had proceeded but a fmall didancc from thence, when we oblerved fcvcral G 2 « (hioJ^cs 41 f? 17%. July. — V— JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE finok^s l>eneath an hill, on the North fhore, and on our approach we per<:eivcd the natives climbing the afcent to gain the woods. The Indians, howewr, in the two fmall canoes which were ahead of us* having alTurcd them of our friendly intentions, they ireturned to their %es, and '^ve dilembarked. Several of them 'were clad in hare-Jkins, i^ut in every other circumftance they rcfembled thofe whom we had already feen. We were, however, informed that they were of a different tribe, called the Hare Indians, as hares and fifh are their principal fup- port, from t' t fcarcity of rein-deer and beaver, which are the only animals of the larger kind that frequent this part of the country. They were twenty-jfive in number; and among them was a womaai who v^as afflifted with an abcefs in the belly, and reduced, in confcquence, to a mere Ikoleton: at the feaie time feveral old women were'lingin^' and howling around her; but whether thefe noifes were to operate as a charm for her cure, or merdly to amufe and confole her, I do not pre* tend to determine. A fmall quantity of out ulual prefents were received by them with the grcateft fatisfaction. Here we made an exchange of our guide, who had become fo trouble- fome'that we were obligrd to watch him night and day, except when he was upon the water. The man, however, who had agreed to go in his place foon repented of his engagement, and endeavoured to perfuade us that fomc of his relations further down the river, would readily ac- company us, and were much belter acquainted with the river than him- felf. But, as he had informed us ten minutes before that we fhould fee no more of his trib'^, we paid very little attention to hia remonftranccs, and compelled him to embark. In NORTH WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA, In about three hours a man overtook us in a fmall canoe, and we fufpetled that his obje6l was to facihtate, in fome way or other, the efcape of our conduftor. About twelve we alfo obferved an Indian walicing along the North-Eafl; (hore, when the fmall canoes paddled towards him. We accordingly followed, and found three men, three women, and two children, who had been on an hunting expedition. They had fotne flefli of the rein-deer, which they oflfered to us, but it was f(. rotten, as well as ofFenfive to tlie fraell, that we excufed our- felves fiom accepting it. They had alfo their wonderful Itories of danger and terror, as well as their countrymen, whom we had already feen ; and we were now informed, that behind the oppofite ifland there was a Manitoe or fpirit, in the river, which fwallowed every perfon that approached it. As it would Jiave employed half a day to have indulged our curiofity in proceeding to examine this phaenomenon, we did not deviate from our courfe, but left thefe people with the ulual prefents, and proceeded on our voyage. Our courfe and diftance this day were Well twenty-eight miles, Weft-North- Well twenty-three miles, Well- South- Well fix miles, Weft by North five miles, South- Weft four miles, and encamped at eight o'clock. A fog prevailed the greater part of the day, with frequent ftiowers of fmall rain. 45 1789. July- mi ' ■ hi . CUM, In 46 JOURN AL, OF ^A VOYAGE THROUGH THE CHAPTER IV. The new guide makes his efcape. Compel another to fupply his place. Land at an encampment of another tribe of Indians, Account of their manners, dre/s, weapons, &c. Traffic with them, Defcription of a beautiful fjh. Engage anotlier guide. His curious behaviour. Kill a fox and ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe called the DegUthee Denees, or Quarellers, Saw flax growing wild. The varying charader if the river and its banks. Diflant mountains. Perplexity from the numerous channels of the river. Determined to proceed. Land •where there had been an encampment of the Efquimaux. Saw large flocks of wild fowl. View of the fun at midnight. Defcription of a place lately deferted by the Indians. Houfes of the natives defcribed. Frequent fliowers. Saw a black fox. The difcontents of our hunters re- newed, and pacified. Face of the country. Land at afpot lately inha- bited. Peculiar circumflances of it. Arrive at the entrance of tlie lake Proceed to an ijland. Some account of it. 'III I 1789. Tliurldayg. A HUNDER and rain prevailed during the night, and, in the courfe of it, our guide deferted; we therefore compelled another of thefe people, very much againft his will, to fupply the place of his fugitive countryman. We alfo too'' away the paddles of one of them who remained NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. remained behind, that he might not follow us on any fcheme of pro- moting the efcape of his companion, who was not eafily pacified. At length, however, we fucceeded in the a6t of conciliation, and at half paft three quitted our ftation. In a fhort time we faw a fmoke on the Ealt fliore, and dire6led our courfe towards it. Our new guide began immediately to call to the people that belonged to it in a particular manner, which we did not comprehend. He informed us that they were not of his tribe, but were a very wicked, malignant people, who would beat us cruelly, pull our hair with great violence from our heads^ and mal-treat us in various other ways^ 47 1789. July. The men waited our arrival, but the women and children took to the woods. There were but four of thefe people, and previous to our land- ing, they all harangued us at the fame moment, and apparently with violent anger and refentment. Our hunters did not underlland them, but no fooner had our guide addrefled them, than they were appeafed. I prefented them with beads, awls, &c. and when the women and chil- dren returned from the woods, they were gratified with fimilar articles. There were fifteen of them ; and of a more pleafing appearance than any which we had hiiherto feen, as they were healthy, full of flefli, and clean in their perfons. Their language was fomewhat different, but I believe chiefly in the accent, for they and our guide convcrfed intelligibly with each other; and the Englilh chief clearly comprehended, one of them, though he was not himfelf underftood. > i '•<< i \.^ , Their arms and utcnfils diflTer but little from thofe which have been defcribed in a former chapter. The only iron they have is in fmall pieces, which I '! *' I! 48 i78(). JOURNAl OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE which ferve them- for- knives. They obtain this metal from the Efqui- maux Indians. Their arrows are made of very light wood, and are winged only with two feathers ; their bows differed from any which we had feen, and we underflood that they were furnifhed by the Efquimaux, who are thflt neighbours : they confift of two pieces, with a very ftrong cord of finews along the back, which is tied in feveral places, to preferve its fhape; when this cord becomes wet, it requires a ftrong bow-ftring, and a powerful arm to draw it. The veflel in which they prepare their food, is made of a thin frame of wood, and of an oblong fliape ; the bottom is fixed in a curve, in the fame manner as a cafk. Their fhirts are not cut fquare at the bottom, but taper to a point, from the belt downwards as low as the knee, both before and behind, with a border, embellifhed with a fhort fringe. They ufe alfo another fringe, fimilar to that which has been already defcribed, with the addition of the flone of a grey farinaceous berry, of the fize and fhape of a large barley- corn: it is of a brown colour, and fluted, and being bored is run on each firing of the fringe; with this tliey decorate their fliirts, by fewing it in a femicircJe on the breafl and back, and croffing over both flioulders ; the fleevcs are wide and fhort, but the mittens fupply their deficiency, as they are long enough to reach over a part of the ileevCf and are commodioufly fufpended by a cord from the neck. If their Icggins were made with waiflbands, they might with great propriety be denominated trowlers: they fiflen them with a cord round the middle, fo that they appear to have a i'enfe of decency which their neighbours cannot boafl. Their flioes are fewed to their leggins, and decorated on every fcam. One of the men was clad in a fhirt made of the fkins of the mulk-rat. The drcfs of the women is the fame as that of the men, except in NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. 49 in their fhirts, which are longer, and without the finifliing of a fringe oh their breafl. Their pecuHar mode of tying the hair is as follows:— that which growfi on the temples, or the fore part of the fkull, is formed into two queues, hanging down before the ears; that of the fcalp or crown is fafhioned in the fame manner to the back of the neck, and is then tied with the reft of the hair, at fome diftance from the head. A thin cord is employed for thefe purpofes, and very neatly worked with hair, artificially coloured. The women, and, indeed, fome of the men, let their hair hang loofe on their ftioulders, whether it be long or (hort. i 1789. July. m' We purchafed a couple of very large moofe flcins from thtin, which were very well dreffed; indeed we did notfuppofe that there were any of thofe animals in the count.y; and it appears from the accounts of the natives themfelves, that they are very fcarce. As for the beaver, the cxiftence of fuch a creature does not feem to be known by them. Our people bought (hirts of them, and many curious articles, &c. They prefented us with a moft delicious fifh, which was lefs than an her- ring, and very beautifully fpotted with black and yellow : its dorfal fin reached from the head to the tail; in its expanded ftate takes a triangular form, and is variegated with the colours that enliven the fcales: the head is very fmall, and the mouth is armed with (harp- pointed teeth, ^, \ , . . 1 iv.ui . UrtoHVr ' uwh » We prevailed on the native, whofe language was moft intelligible, to accompany us. He informed us that we fhould fleep ten nights more before we arrived at the fea; that feveral of his relations relided in the immediate vicinity of this part of tlie river, and that in three nights we H fhould n'H n .ri^;, ' \;- ' ■4 J i i ',. Ji-j ■ fi« July. JOURNAL OF A VOYAOJE THROUGH THE (honid meet with the Efquimaiix. ♦vjth yrhom they had formerly made ;:ar, but wert now in a ftate of peace and amity. He mentioned the lafl Indian) whom we had feen in tetms of great derifion; defcribing them as being no better than old wornn^,; and as abominable liars; which Coincided with the hotion we already entertained of them. ..wi -«s t^CTliHU} . ul ;w^ As we pufli^d ofFj fome of my men difcharged their fowling pieces, that were only loaded with powder, a( the report of which the Indians Were very much alarmed^ as they had not before heard the dif- charge of fire arms. This circumftance had fuch an effe6l upon our guide, that we had reafon to apprehend he would not fulfil his promife. When, howevfer, he wks infiirracd that thi ndife which he had heard was a fignal of friendfhip, he was perfuaded to embark in bis own fmall canoe, though hei hid been offered a feat in oura.-y^hnn-nU zo/iJcxi mm liiCi .m'jfij yd oJ nt ?.!>Qb mu'i^'yi^ « (hfi\ '\o oocniVtm Two of his companions, whom he reprefented as his brothers, Followed us in their canoes ; and they amufed us not only with their native fongs, "but with others, in imitation of the Efquimaux ; and our new guide was fo enlivened by them^ tlrat the antics he petformed, in keeping time to the finging, alarmed us with continual apprehenfion that his boat mud upfet: but he was not long content with his confined fituation, and paddling up along-fide our canoe, requefied us to receive him in it, though but a fhort time before he had refolutely refufed to accept our invitation^ No fooner had he entered our canoe, than he begoAi' to perform an £fquimafu'x dance, to our no fmall alarm. He wasthow* cVer, (boh "prevailed upon to be mort tranquil ; when he began to diiplay various indecbnciesi according to the caftoms of the Efquimaux, of huiiiiU i4 which NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA^. !^hicH,he bo«Aed an iotimatie acquaijaitaace. On ovur pubtti^g to ihbre, in or^er to leave his canoe, he informed us, that on the oppofite hjU the * Efquimaux, thpcc winters before, killed feis grandfather. We faw a fox, f.rid a ground hog on the hill, .the laJbter of which this brother of our ^ttidefhot with his bow and arrow, jn D's^ntvnq^ oUis 4pdX .u^lmid Pit r^nWin faddtm jltsdmo-^t ci b'jSa6\{Kri rni JflriJ ol /nnioti iiry^ o^'T About. £3ur in the afternoon we perceived a fmoke on the Weft lhoc«, when we traverfiad and landed. The natives made a raoft terrible uproar, talking They alfo reprefented the land on both fides as projefling to a point Thefe people do not appear to harbour any thievifti difpofitions; at leaft we did not perceive that they took, or wanted to take, any thing from us by ftealth or artifice. They enjoyed the amufements of dancing and jumping in common with thofe we had already feen ; and, indeed, thefe exercifes feem to be their favourite diverfions. About mid-day the weather was fultry, but in the afternoon it became cold. There was a large quantity of wild flax, the growth of the laft year, laying on the ground, and the new plants were fprouting up. through it. This cifcuinftance I did not obferve in any other part. hnB At At NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. At four in the morning we embarked, at a fmall diftance from the place of our encampment; the river, which here becomes narrower, flows between high rocks ; and a meandring courfe took us North-Weft four miles. At this fpot the banks became low ; indeed, from the firft rapid, the country does not wear a mountainous appearance; but the banks of the river are generally lofty, in fome places perfeftly naked, and in others well covered with fmall trees, fuch as the fir and the birch. We continued our laft courfe for two miles, with mountains before us, whofe tops were covered with fnow. 53 1780. Fridnv 10. , i ' i. i *i4'Jo'?q 36 V7 r. ■' hfi'C : f^t?. The land is low on both fides of the river, except thefe mountains, whofe bafe is diftant about ten miles: here the river widens, and runs through various channels, formed by iflands, fome of which are without a tree, and little more than banks of mud and fand; while others are covered with a kind of fpruce fir, and trees of a larger fize than we had feen for the laft ten days. Their banks, which are about fix feet above the furface of the water, difplay a face of folid ice, intermixed with veins of black earth and as the heat of the fun melts the ice, the trees frequently fall into the river. ,«*,«, u.w n.~vj »..««..( ..» ..*. .,.«.. . So various were the channels of the river at this time, that we were at a lofs which to take. Our guide preferred the Eafternmoft, on ac- count of the Efquimaux, but I determined to take the middle channel, as it appeared to be a larger body of water, and running North and South : befides, as there was a greater chance of feeing them I concluded, that we could always go to the Eaftward, whenever we might prefer it. Our courfe . . /« ,^ . .. .-..,.. —..'._-...* was- •*.^:.^^)!P¥ni 54 nSg. ^-^ > , f JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE was now Weft by North fix miles, North-Weft by Weft, the fnowy moun- tains being Weft by South from us, and ftretching to the Northward as far as we could fee. According to the information of the Indians, they are part of the chain of mountains which we approached on the third of this month. I obtained an obfervation this day that gave me Gy. 47. North latitude, which was farther North than I expefled, according to the courfe I kept ; but the difference was owing to the variation of the com- pafs, which was more Ealterly than I imagined. From hence it was evident that thefe waters emptied themfelvcs into the Hyperborean Sea ; and though it was probable that, from the want of provifion, we could not return to Athabafca in the courfe of the feafon, I neverthe- lefs, determined to penetrate to the difcharge of thcm.f.tuu tt >.».a -junhr . ^ . •. . I i ■ , . . . ■ » . My new conduftor being very much difcouraged and quite tired of ^ his fituation, uied his influence to prevent our proceeding. He had never been, he faid, at the Benahulla Toe, or White Man's Lake ; and that when he went to the Efquimaux Lake, which is at no great diftance, he pafled over land from the place where we found him, and to that part where the Efquimaux pais the fummer. In ftiort, my hunters alfo be- came fo diflieartened from thcfe accounts, and other circumftances, that I was confident they would have left me, if it had been in their power. I, however, latisfied them, in fome degree, by the affurance, that I would proceed onwards but feven days more, and if I did not then get to the fea, I would return. Indeed, the low ftate of our provifions, without any other confideration, formed a very fufticient fccurity for the main- :i ,.f. iiiji) ' i^uMiH wvsnaxiw ,bu v/iiu^ !>iu i>i <..j Jf^*: tenancc North-west CONTINENT OF AMERICA. tenance of my engagement. Our laft courfe was thirty-two miles, with a flronger corrent than could be expefted in fuch a low country. Wc now proceeded North-North-Weft four miles. North- We ft three miles, North-Eaft two miles, North-Weft by Weft three miles, and NorthtEaft two miles. At half paft eight in the evening we landed and pitched OUT tents, near to where there had been three encampments of the Eiiquimaux, fince the breaking up of the ice. The natives, who fol- lowed us yefterday, left us at our Itation this morning. In the courl^ of the day we faw large flocks of wild fowl. >"> }'niv i?f>fi'iai ,w<'i w« h 6$ 1789. July. •<.!•;■ ; li I fat up all night to obferve the fun. At half paft twelve I called up Saturday tu one of the men ,to view a fpeftacle which he had never before leen ; when, on feeing the fun fo high, he thought it. was a fignal to embark, and began to call the rcil of his companions, who would fcarcely be per* fuaded by me, that the fun had not de (bended: nearer to tlie horizon, and that it was now but,A.fl^9rt time paU midni^hj, j ■)n,) \mn .bririoj)^ ».4t [j,;We rfepofed, however, till three quarters after three, when we entered the canoe, and fleered about North- Weft, the river taking a very fer- penMue CQurfe. About {even we fuw a iidge of high land: at twelve we landed at a fpot where we obfcrvcd that Ibnie of the natives had lately b<)en, I counted thirty places where there had been fires; and (bme of the mert; who went further, faw as many more; They muft have ,bcen here for a cbnQderable time, though it dues not appear that they had ete^kd .any huti. A great number of poles, however, were leen lixed in tlie river, to which they had attached their nets, 'vnd there fcemed "• to m 56 H I V I ,1 ? I .; 1789. J"iy. •-»» .•S.-J;. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THRQUGH THE to be an excellent fifhery. One of the fiCh, of the many which we faw leap QUI of the water, fell into our canoe ; it was about ten inches long, and of a round fhape. About the places where they had made their fires were Ibattered pieces of whalebone, and thick burned leather, wilii parts of the frames of three canoes ; we could alfo obferve where they had fpilled train oil ; and there was the lingular appearance of a fpruce fir, ftripped of its branches to the top like an Englifh may>poIe. The weather was cloudy, and the air cold and unpleafant. From this place for about five miles, the river widens, it then flows in a variety of narrow, meandering channels, amongft low iflands, enlivened with no trees, but a few dwarf willows. At four, we landed, where there were tnree houfes, or rather huts, be- longing to the natives. The ground-plot is of an oval form, about fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either end : the whole of it is dug about twelve inches below the furface of the ground, and one half of it is covered over with willow branches ; which probably ferves as a bed for the whole family. A fpace, in the middle of the other part, of about four feet wide, is deepened twelve inches more, and is the only fpot in tiie houfe where a grown perfon can (land upright. One fide of it is covered, as has been already defcribed, and the other is the hearth or fire-place, of which, however, they do not make much ufe. Though it was ciofe to the wall, the latter did not appear to be burned. The door or entrance is" in the middle of one end of the houfc, and is about two feet and an half high and two feet wide, and has a covered way or porch five feet in length; fo that it is ubfolutely ncccfiary to creep on all fours in NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. in order to get into, or out of, this curious habitation. There is an hole of about eighteen inches fquare on the top of it, which ferves the three- fold purpofe of a window, an occafional door, and a chimney. The under-ground part of the floor is lined with fplit wood. Six or eight flumps of fmall trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on which are laid fome crofs pieces of timber, fupport the roof of the building, which is an oblong Iquare of ten feet by fix. The whole is made of drift-wood covered with branches and dry grafs ; over which is laid a foot deep of earth. On each fide of thefc houfes are a few fquare holes in the ground of about two feet in depth, which are covered with fplit wood and earth, except in the middle. Thefe appeared to be contrived for the prefervation of the winter (lock of provifioiis. In and about the houles we found fledge runners and bones, pieces of whalebone, and poplar bark cut in circles, which are ufed as corks to buoy the nets, and are fixed to them by pieces of whalebone. Before each hut a great number of flumps cT trees were fixed in the ground, upon which it appeared that they hung their fifli to dry, AVe now continued our voyage, and encamped at eight o'clock. I -calculated our courfe at about North-Weft, and, allowing for the wind- ings, that we had made fifty-four miles. We expcded, throughout the day, to meet w'th Ibme of the natives. On fcvcral of the illands we per- ceived the print of their feet in thc^ fand, as if they had been there but a few days before, to procure wild fowl. 'I'hcre were frequent (howers of rain in the afternoon, and the weather was raw and difagrceable. We law a black fox ; but trees w*re now become very rare obje6ls, except a iew dwarf willows, of not more than three feet in height, I Till- 1789. «.'ti t, ,3 rm u "•I «T ' i fl fi M 5S »7»9- — y . JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE The difcontents of our hunters were now renewed by the accounts which our guide had been giving of that part of our voyage that was approaching. According to his information, we were to fee a larger lake on the morrow. Neither he nor his relations, he faid, knew any thing about it, except that part which is oppofite to, and not far from, their country. The Efquimaux alone, he added, inhabit its fhores, and kill a large filh that is found in it, which is a principal part of their food ; this, we prefumed, mull be the whale. He alfo mentioned whit'^ bears 9nd another large animal which was I'een in thofc parts, but our hunters ?oul4 not underlland the defcription which he gav^ of it. He alfo re- prefented their canoes as being of a large conflruftion, which would com- modioufly contain four or five families. However, to reconcile the Englifh chief to the neceflary continuance in my fervice, I prefented him with one of my capots or t 'Veiling coats; at the fame time, to fatisfy the guide, and keep him, if poITible, in good humour, I gave him a fkin of the moofe-decr, which, in his opinion, was a valuable prefent. "*!' PU . l' .*. Sunday u. It rained with violence throughout the night, and till two in the morn- ing ; the weather continuing very cold. We proceeded on the fame meandering courfc as ycfterday, the wind North-North-Wcfl, and the country ib naked that fcarce a (hrub was to be fcen. At ten in the morn- ing, we landed where there were four huts, exadly the lame as thofe which have been ib lately dcfcribcd. The adjacent land is high and covered with fliort grafs and flowers, though the earth was not thawed above four inches from the furface; beneath which was a folid body of ice. This beautiful appearance, however, was flrangely contralled with the ice and Inow that are feen in the vallict». The foil, where ,1 I NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. ■where there is any, is a yellow clay mixed with flones. Thefe huts apr pear to have been inhabited during the laft winter ; and we had rcafon to think, that fome of the natives had been lately there, as the beach was covered with the track of their feet. Many of the runners and bars of their fledges were laid together, near the houfes, in a manner that feemed to denote the return of the proprietors. There were alfo pieces of netting made of finews, and fome bark of the willow. The thread of the former was plaited, and no ordinary portion of time muft have been employed in manufa6luring fo great a length of cord. A fquare (lone- kettle, with a flat bottom, alfo occupied our attention, which was capable of containing two gallons ; and we were puzzled as to the means thefe people muft have employed to have chifelled it out of a foHd rock into its prefent form. To thefe articles may be added, fmall pieces of flint fixed into handles of wood, which, probably, ferve as knives ; feveral wooden diflies ; the ftern and part of a large canoe ; pieces of very thick leather, which we conjeftured to be the covering of a canoe ; feveral bones of large fifli, and two heads ; but we could not determine the ani- mal to which they belonged, though we conjedured that it muft be the fca-horfe. v When we had fatisfied our curiofity we rc-embarked, but we were at a lols what courfe to llecr, as our guide leemed to be as ignorant of this country as ourfclvcs. Though the current was very ftrong, we ap- peared to have come to the entrance of the lake. Tiie ftrcam (et to the Weft, and we went with it to an high point, at the diftance of a oout eight miles, which we conjeftured to be an illand ; but, on r',^>proaching it, we perceived it to be connc6led with the fliorc by a low neck of land. I now . .«, I 2 took 59 1789. Julv. % K i ill 60 .1789. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE took an obrervation which gave 69. i. North latitude. From the point that has been jull mentioned, we continued tiie fame courfe for the Wellernmoft point of an high iQand, and the Wellernraoft land in fight, at the diflance of fifteen miles. The lake was quite open to us i.o the Weft ward, and out of the channel of the river there was not more than four feet water, and in fome places the depth did not exceed one foot, from the fhallownefs of the water k was impoffible to coaft to the Weftward. At five o'clock we arrived at the ifland, and during the laft fifteen miles, five feet was the deepeft v;ater. The lake now appeared to be covered with ice, for about two leagues dillance, and no land ahead, fo that we were prevented from proceeding in this diredion by the ice, and the fliallownefs -^^ the water along the fhore. I We landed at the boundary of our voyage in this dire£lion, and as foon as the tents were pitched I ordered the nets to be fet, when I pro- ceeded with the Englifh chief to the higheft part of the ifland, from which we difcovered the folid ice, extending from the South-Weft by compafs to the Eaftward. As far as the eye could reach to the South- Weftward, we could dimly perceive a chain of mountains, ftretching further to the North than the edge of the ice, at the diftance of upwards of twenty leagues. To the Eaftward we law many iflands, and in our progrels we met with a conliderablc number of white partridges, now become brown. There were alfo flocks of very beautiful plovers, and I found the neft of one of them with four eggs. White owls, iikewifc^ were among the inhabitants of the place : but tlie dead, as well \ I NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. well as the living, demanded our attention, for we came to the grave of one of the natives, by which lay a bow, a paddle, and a fpear. The Indians informed me that they landed on a fmall ifland, about four leagues from hence, where they had feen the tracks of two men, that were quite frelh -, they had alfo found a fecret ftore of train oil, and feveral bones of white bears were fcattered about the place where it was hid. The wind was now fo high that it was impratlicable for us to vifit the nets. ^•-■ '-^ - '■ ,'^' " •" ■; ''- '■ "■ * " My people could not, at this time, refra'n from expreCTions of real concern, that they were obliged to return without reaching the fea: indeed the hope of attaining this objeft encouraged them to bear, with- out repining, the hardlhips of our unremitting voyage. For fome time paft their fpirits were animated oy the expe£lation that another day would bring them to the Mer d'ouejl : and even in our prefent fituation they declared their readinefs to follow me wherever I fhould bt pleafed. to lead them. We faw feveral large white gulls, and other birds, whofe back, and upper feathers of the wing, are brown; and whofe belly, and under feathers of the wing are white. , . a .f;^' 1789. July. l' i-^'l (■> .•;»> -.nii>^3*v>: c>.-' »r:^,»':n'rifi ^iliJi'/o/::? ••? hrii ^;(rM•^ir)^;ii'•'.; %,-;y Mxy CHAP. III m 1 1 lii Ml! n €2 1789. July- JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE i« ' 8'' f*''' *^f "W'tli' •)!ift>f iBiil^ iiw-Jfc -c-?« -io iwl... CHAPTER V. ..;rfw ,«Jfi'5^ moli Ksuwif^ •iOl. UiH 'r:-i ti^'fyW ' KlfH 65 1789. .-r-J-. :..->J:i..di^ Being awakened by fome cafual circumflance, at four this morning, Wcdaer. ij. I was furpriCed on perceiving that the water had flowed under our baggagq. As the wind had not changed, and did not blow with greater violence than K w'licn ^X'i I I': i 1789. July. ll . 'I' -l', )■'■ t ■ 1 m f i ) 'd 1 m 66 JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE when we went to reft, we were all of opinion that this circumftance proceeded from the tide. We had, indeed, obferved at the other end of the ifland that the water rofe and fell; but we then imagined that it mult have been occafioned by the wind. The water continued to rife till about fix, but I could not afcertain the time with the re- quifite precifion, as the wind then began to blow with great vio- lence; I therefore determined, at all events, to remain here till the next morning, though, as it happened, the ftate of the wind was fuch as to. render my ftay here an aft of neceflity. Our nets were not very fuc- cefsful, as they prefented us with only eight fifli. From an obfervation which I obtained at noon, we were in 6g. 7. North latitude. As the evening approached, the wind increafed, and the weather became cold* Two fwans were the only provifion which the hunters procured for us. Thurr; » i.' f ^;iji •■* . " •■» '■' ' ''v.-*:-. 1789. July. All my people went to reft ; but I thought it prudent to fit up, in order to watch the motions of the natives. This circumftance was a fubjeft of their inquiry ; and their curiofity was Hill more excited, when they faw me employed in writing. About twelve o'clock I perceived four of their women coming along the fhore; and they were no fooner feen by their f ends, than they ran haftily to meet them, ind perfuaded two of them, who, I fuppofe, were young, to return, while they brought the other two who were very old, to enjoy the warmth of our fire ; but, after ftaying there for about half an hour, they alfo re- treated. Thofe who remained, immedi^.ioly kindled a fmall fire, and laid thrnsfc-ives down to fleep round it, like lb many whelps, having neither fi^ins or garments of any kind lo cover lem, notwithft»i>ding tV cold that prevailed. My people having placed their kcnle r" fi^r?- jn the fire, I was obliged to guard it h om th? native's, who ma fjvcrai attempts to polfefs thc.iifelves of iti. contents ; and this vas the oi>iy inUancelhft 1 hitherto difcovertd, of th<""ir beiri-, Influenced by a pilfcrmg iihofiiion. It might, perhaps, be a general opinion, that provifions wcie a common property. I now faw the fun iet for the firll time fince I had been here before. During the precf J'ng night, the weather was fo cloudy, that I could iiot obferve its defccnt to the horizon. The watei had funk, at this place, upward of thica foet fince we had pafTcd down the river. Wr began ouv march y^l half pafl three this morning, the men bring nv h employed cilncl. « i. '.:i|s. 11 i^i •^ • Iff •i 'i: m %1 Mr. :ii ,M ^4 178c). July. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE employed to tow the canoe. I walked with the Indians to their huts, which were at a greater diflance than I had any reafon to expeft, for it occupied three hours in hard walking to reach them. We pafFed a narrow and deep river in our way, at the mouth of which the natives had let their nets. They had hid their eftefts, and fent their young women into the v/oods, as we law but very few of the former, and none of the latter. They had large huts built with drift wood on the declivity of the beach, and in the in fide the earth was dug away, fo as to form a level floor. At each end was a flout fork, whereon was laid a flrong ridge-pole, which formed a fupport to the whole ftru£lure, and a covering of fpruce bark pre- ferved it from the rain. Various fpars of different heights were fixed within the hut, and covered with fplit fifh that hung on them to dry ; and fires were made in different parts to accelerate the operation. There were rails alfo on the outfide of the building, which were hung around with fifli, but in a frefher ftate than thofe within. The fpawn is alfo carefully preferved and dried in the fame manner. We obtained as many fifh from them as the canoe could conveniently contain, and fome firings of beads were the price paid for them, an article which they preferred to every other. Iron they held in little or no cftimation. , ,. During the two hours that I remained here, I employed the Englifh chief in a continual fiate of inquiry concerning ihcfe people. The in- formation that refultcd from this conference was as follows. ,; „, ^v),[',. ,', This nation or tribe is very numerous, with whom the El'quimaux had been continually at variance, a people who take every advantage of at- tucking thofc who are not in a ftatc to defend thcmfclves ; and though NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. they had promifed fViendfhip, had lately, and in the moft treacherous manner, butchered fome of their people. As a proof of this circum- ftance, the relations of the deceafed fhewed us, that they had cut off their hair on the occafion. They alfb declared their determination to withdraw all confidence in future from the Esquimaux, and to colleft themfelves in a formidaule body, that they might be enabled to revenge the death oi their friends, jj*. ., , jj ,; A *; ui *i.-!;»i -; . « i .i^ins i. i)' ; , t 75 From their account, a (Irong party of Efquimaux occalionaliy afcends this river, in large canoes, in fearch of flint Itrnes, which they employ to point their fpears and arrows. They were now at their lake due Eaft from the fpot where we then were, which was at no great diflance over land, where they kill the rein-deer, and that they would foon begin to catch big fifli for the winter flock. We could not, however, obtain any information refpe6ling the lake in the direflion in which 've were. To the Eallward and Weflward where they faw it, the ice breaks up, but foon freezes again. The Efquimaux informed them that they law large canoes full of white men to the Weflward, eight or ten winters ago, from whom they obtained iron in exchange for leather. The lake where they met thefe canoes, is called by them Belkoullny Toe, or White Man's Lake. They alfo reprefented the Efquimaux as drelling like tiiemlelves. They wear their hair (hort, and have two holes perforated, one on each (ide of the mouth, in a line with the under lip, in which tliey place long beads that they find in the lake. Their bows are iomcwhat differciu from thofe ull^d by the natives we had fecn, and they employ IJings (rom twii L 2 whence ,789. n,.» 'i-\ ;<^ iw Ml '% Pi i .'»U! dt ' • liiiJ, i' i 76 1789. July. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE wjience they throw ftones with fuch dexterity that they prove very formidable weapons in the day of battle, k mum^A^Sim-- /-^lujfj^ 'Bn ■'-•- h--' ■—■^' ■ '■ --h ■•'-I ■"-' !.„- < We alfo learned in addition from the natives, that we (hould not lee any more of their relations, as they had all left the river to go in purfuic of rein-deer for their provifions, and that they themfelves fhould en* gage in a fimilar expedition in a few days. Rein-deer, bears, wolvereens, martens, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes are the only quadrupeds in their country ; and that the latter were only to be found in the moun- tains to the Weftward. ' ^-rntx ' -t\i; ..„. j-y Thuifclay23. \ We proceeded with the line throughout the day, except two hours, when we employed the fail. We encamped at eight in the evening. From the place we quitted this morning, the banks of the river are well covered with fmall wood, fpruce, firs, birch, and willow. We found it very warm during the whole of our progrels. At five in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, but found it very difficult to travel along the beach. We obferved feveral places where the natives had flationed themfelves and fet their nets fince our paflage downv/ards. We paffed a fmall river, and at five o'clock our Indians put to (hore in order to encamp, but we proceeded onwards, which dif- plcafed them very much, from the fatigue they fuffercd, and at eight we encamped at our pofition of the 8th inftant. The day was very fine, and we employed the towing line throughout the courfe of it. At ten, our hunters returned, fallen and diflatisfied. Wc had not touched any of our provifion ftores for fix days, in which time we had confumcdtwo rein t NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. r rein-deer, four fwans, forty-five geefe, and a confiderable quantity of fifh : but it is to be confidered, that we were ten men, and four women, I have always obferved, that the north men pofleffed very hearty appe- tites, but they were very much exceeded by thofe with me, fince we entered *his river. I (hould really have thought it abfolute gluttony in my people, if my own appetite had not increafed in a fimilar proper* 1789. Jrtly. tion. \ urrti •■« ' *vi \A A VI V "v\i: ^■f?v. .'«v ^.^V A-. :J- \ W ^ ''.J '.'It' , V -t*'. I' •sT:. V «i.,«;^w N N t A k'-'>» ri--' ■>V"i»j(rv;'.'*. !■. j^*-.^^ ■<' ..' ', "rj*?*'!" ("t'l \- }*-4' fV oy "■*- •M' T\ .U ,.,,,- A ,:."•«!' \ ■<•• vMk, irkj m V I ■ '■ t «f CHAP. w »..'/;» >f *. ^.p'th: '.f3^i**tf'j 'eI^ S'li^f T^ti^r- .imH fhtlH -) -sti c3 'A It Jt3<| iv»' -jriT-i j'Hti x!;.*./ ''uJ^C H A P T E R VI.'*'' ^^'^^' ''^'-^ tod ,>:r5^;7 :« *:^miiH^'M!:G]<'ii ?f 1:1-.,:...-.. ..•,... ^ __. .-1} i' .ta^'b -Ifiil ■h»"^">mf» Employ the towing line. Defcription of a place zohere the Indians come to colleElJlint. Their Jliynejs andfnfpicions. Current lejjcns. Appear- ance of the country. Abundance of hares, f^iolent Jlorm. Land near three lodges. Alarm of the Indians. Supply of fifh from them. Their fabulous accounts. Continue to fee Indian lodges. Treatment of a difeafe. Mi/underjlanding with the natives. The interpreter harangues them. Their accounts fimilar to ihofe we Iiave already received. Their curious condu6l. Purchafe fome beaver Jkins. Shoot one of their dogs. The confequence of that aB. Apprehenfions of the xoomen. Large quantities of liquorice. Szvalloxv's nefts feen in the precipices. Fall in with a party of natives killing geefe. Circuvijlances concerning them. Hurricane. Variation of the weather. Kill great numbers of geefe. Abundance of feveral kinds of berries. State of the river and its bank ■' .,«v V*) // ^ 1* jl\T five we continued our courfe, but, in a very fhort time, were under the neceflity of applying to the aid of the line, the ftream being fo ftrong as to render all our attempts unavailing to flem it with the paddies. We paffed a fmall river, on each fide of which the natives and Efquimaux colleft flint. The bank is an high, Tu'cp, and foft rock, variegated with red, NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. red, green, and yellow hues. From the continual dripping of water, parts of it frequently fall and break into fmall ftony flakes like flate, but not fo hard. Among them are found pieces of Petrolium, which bears a refemblance to yellow wax, but is more friable. The Englifh chief informed me, that rocks of a fimilar kind are Icattered about the country, at the back of the Slave Lake, where the Chepewyans col- left copper. 79 1789. "i i « J I i i 'J-Tl ■1 5'*., i t'«' <.s At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had been engaged in towing, re-embarked. At twelve we obferved a lodge on the fide of the river, and its inhabitants running about in great confufion, or hurry, ing to the woods. Three men waited our arrival, though they re- mained at fomc didance from us, with their bows and arrows ready to be employed ; or at lead, that appeared to be the idea they wifhed to con- vey to us, by continually fnapping the firings of the former, and the figns they made to forbid our approach. The Englifli chief, whofe language they, in fome degree, underftood, endeavoured to remove their diftrufl of us ; but till I went to them with a prefent of beads, they refufed to have any communication with us. , . *' When they firfl perceived our fail, they took us for the Efquimaux Indians, who employ a fail in their canoes. They were fufpicious of our defigns, and queftioned us with a view to obtain fome knowledge of them. On feeing us in poffeffion of fome of the clothes, bows, &c. which muft have belonged to fome of the Dcguthee Denees, or QuarrcUers, they imagined, that we had killed fome of them, and were bearing away the fruits of our vi6lory. They appeared, indeed, to be of the fame tribe, I M-' •:l|']| 'h 11-' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^g? 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■ 2.2 L2 12.I US Sf L£ 12.0 U 11.6 I ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ <^ lb '-.. 93 WIIT MAIN STRHT WIMTIR.N.Y. M5I0 ( 71* ) •73-4303 .^> >» ^>> 8o f] ^ 1789. July. JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE THROUGH THE' tribe, though they were afraid of acknowledging it. From their quef- tions, it was evident that they had not received any notice of our being in thofe parts. ^ ^> - vJfUi •il . 1 1 'if oJ r> They would not acknowledge that they had any women with them, though we had feen them running to the woods ; but pretended that they had been left at a confiderable diftance from the river, with fome relations, who were engaged in killing rein-deer. Thefe people had been here but a fhort time, and their lodge was not yet completed ; nor had they any fifh in a {late of preparation for their provifion. I gave them a knife and fome beads for an horn-wedge or chifel, with which they fplit their canoe-wood. One of my Indians having broken his paddle, attempted to take one of theirs, which was immediately con- tefted by its owner, and on my interfering to prevent this a6l of injuftice, he manifefled his gratitude to me on the occafion. We lod an hour and a half in this conference. _ , ....... ,.....„. The Englifti chief was during the whole of the tin.i in the woods, where Ibme of the hidden property was difcovered, but the women con- trived to elude the fearch that was made after them. Some of thefe articles were purloined, but I was ignorant of this circumftance till we had taken our departure, or I (hould certainly have given an ample re- muneration. Our chief exprefled his difpleafure at their running away to conceal themfelves, their property, and their young women, in very bitter terms. He faid his heart was fet againd thofe flaves ; and com- plained aloud of his difappointraent in coming fo far witliout feeing the natives, and getting fomething from them. <| I0 ^tijil mH 1 ' • We NORTH-WEST CONTINENT OF AMERICA. We employed the fail and the paddle fince ten this morning, and pitched our tents at feven in the evening. We had no fooner encamped th?n we were vifited by an Indian whom we had feen before, and whofc family was at a fmall diftance up the river: at nine he left us. The weather was clear and fercne. -Ik We embarked this morning at a quarter part three, and at feven we s»turday 15. pafled the lodge of the Indian who had vifited us the preceding evening. There appeared to have been more than one family, and we naturally concluded that our vifitor had made fuch an unfavourable report of us, as to induce his companions to fly on our approach. Their fire was not extinguifhed, and they had left a confiderable quantity of fifli feat- tered about their dwelling. ^* if ■ TT • The weather was now very fiiltry ; but the current had relaxed of its force, fo that the paddle was fufficient for our progrefs during the greatefl part of the day. The inland part of the country is mountainous and the banks of the river low, but covered with wood, amon<^ which is (he poplar, but of fmall growth, and the firft which we had feen on our ' return. A pigeon alfo flew by us, and hares appeared to be in great plenty. We pafled many Indian encampments which we did not lee in our palFage down the river. About feven iho fk}-, to the Wcftward, be- came of a Reel-blue colour, with lightning and thunder. We accord- ingly landed to prepare ourfclves againfl the cohiing florni ; but before wc could erect our tents, it came on with fuch vioknuv, that we ex- pcflrd it to carry every thing before it. Tin- rid