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 / 
 
 ICE & ICE -WORK IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 lUxtracted from tht Geological Magazine, July, August, September, 1876.] 
 Trubn£R & Co., 57 and 59, Ludgate Hill, London. 
 
Kx 
 
ICE AND ICE-WORK 
 
 IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 BT 
 
 JOHN MILNE F.G.S., ^ 
 
 :. •■■■■■■IB.^F TOKEI, .'AI'AN. ^/ 
 
 IMIOPESSOH 01^ GEOLOO\ IN THE IMPBIIIAL 
 
 Kttractod from the Geological Magazine, Decade II. Vol. III., Niw. 7, 8, 't, 
 July, August, and September, 1876.] 
 
ICE AND ICE-WORK 
 
 IN NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 " And now there came both mist and snow, 
 And it grew wondrous cokl ; 
 And ice, mast high, came floating by, 
 As green as emerald. 
 
 And through the drift the snowy cliffs 
 Did send a dismal sheen ; 
 Nor shape of men, nor beasts we ken — 
 The ice was all between. 
 
 The ice was here, the ice was there. 
 
 The ice was all arotind ; 
 
 It cracked and growled and roared and howled, 
 
 Like noises in a swound." — Coleridge's Ancient Mariner. 
 
 The rough MS. of this Article was placed in the Editor's hands by his friend 
 Mr. Milne early in 1875, but, owing to pro-occupation on th( part of Editor and 
 Author, was never put in type until this month, June, 1876. The author departed in 
 August last for Japan, and has therefore been prevented from again seeing or re- 
 vising his notes. The Editor trusts that this apology will be uccopted by the reader 
 should he find that the author has omitted to notice any papers on ice as a geological 
 agent, which may have been published since that date. — Euit. Geol. Mag. 
 
J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfoundland, 
 
 We often see a certain cause at work, and then its effect ; — and 
 the effect may be and is, doubtless, in many instances, peculiar 
 to the cause. In Switzerland glaciers are known to have rounded 
 and converted into " hummock "-shaped forma the rocks over which 
 they have passed ; whilst the rocks which were imprisoned in the 
 ice, and used as tools to scour the rocky bed over which they moved, 
 liave in their turn also received a definite impression. 
 
 Hummocky tracts of land like those in Switzerland are to be seen 
 in Scotland, Newfoundland, and other countries. Mounds of debris, 
 filled with scratched stones like those produced by a modern glacier, 
 are to be found in many places. These and other appearances, which 
 are peculiar to ice-action, are ascribed to it as their originators ; for, 
 whether they be of Permian or Pleistocene age, their origin would 
 seem to be identical. 
 
 By studying the effects of modem volcanic outbursts, similar 
 paroxysms can be shown to have occurred in bygone ages, — and 
 it is only by having a knowledge of the present, that any true 
 knowledge of the past can be obtained. 
 
 The action of ice upon the surface of the earth has been spoken of 
 in al> "Manuals and Text-books of Geology. De la Beche, Lyell, 
 Ramsi , 'kes, Geikie, and others, all discuss it in its various forms. 
 
 The tact that existing glaciers had once a wide extension was not 
 however observed earlier than 1821, when M. Venetz advanced the 
 opinion with regard to those of the Alps. In 183G these ideas were 
 strengthened by the observations of M. Charpentier ; but it was not 
 until the distinguished naturalist Agassiz — fresh from the same 
 Alpine school, where so many geological truths have been demon- 
 strated — visited Scotland in 1840, that the curious rcik-markings 
 in that country wore successfully shown to be identical with those 
 produced by the glaciers of Switzerland. 
 
 Glaciers have been regarded from many points of view, and have 
 been studied both mathematically and physically. Their effects have 
 been noted, and they are now universally admitted to have been 
 great tools in the modelling if not in the actual formation of the 
 surface configuration of the earth. They were first suggested and 
 shown to be a means of solving the puzzles of drift, rounded rocks, 
 strange scratchiugs, and boulders, and ever since take the precedence 
 of all other ice. 
 
 Their offspring, the Icebergs, have also been studied, and their 
 work has been duly chronicled. The manner in which they bear 
 rocks to warmer seas, and strew them broad-cast over the bed of the 
 ocean, and oven the way in which they may have aided in modelling 
 a rising area, has long been dwelt on ; but, being less important 
 tools in Nature's workshop than their parents the Glaciers, de- 
 servedly without such emphasis. There is, however, another form of 
 ice, which, from its unassuming appearance, although touched on by a 
 few, has apparently taken too low a place in the role of actors with 
 which it plays. This is the Coast-ice. 
 
J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfoundland, 5 
 
 My first sight of large masses of floating ice was on my arrival at 
 St. John's, Newfoundland, in the spring of 1872. On the morning of 
 tho IGth of May, we found ourselves wrapped in a fog, through 
 wliich a high bold coast was dimly visible. At length it lifted, and 
 we saw ourselves in a cliff-bound bay, at the head of which a narrow 
 entrance showed us a harbour filled with ice and ships. Near us 
 floated two great icebergs, whilst the sea around was covered with 
 smaller lumps jostling against each other as they rose and sank upon 
 tiiC swell. This Arctic scone is depicted as occurring at the same 
 place, but on a grander scale, in iho frontispiece of " Frost and 
 Fire," by J. F. Campbell, F.G.S. 
 
 This mass, consisting of floe-ice surrounding icebergs, was travel- 
 ling southwards under the influence of the cold Arctic current, 
 which, coming from the northern regions, after coasting along by 
 Labrador, sweeps onward past Newfoundland, to sink beneath the 
 warmer waters of the Gulf-stream in more southern latitudes. 
 
 On the coast of Newfoundland Icebergs generally make their 
 appearance about the 1st ef January. Their approach is heralded 
 by a number of smaller pieces. When we reflect upon the origin of 
 these bergs, it would appear that the greater number of them ought 
 to be disengaged from their parent mass, the glacier, in summer- 
 time. The semifluid mass, of which the glacier is made up, creeping 
 slowly, like a frozen river, down the valley by the aid of heat, 
 gravity, etc., has in summer-time its pace augmented by the incre- 
 ment it receives at this season of the year.* It then pushes itself 
 rapidly forward into the ocean, and there by the buoyancy of the 
 water the projecting ice-mass is detached and floated off. Why, there- 
 fore, is it that the bergs are not seen off the Coast of Newfoundland 
 at the close of summer, or at the latest in the " fall " of the year ? 
 The answer to this may be obtained from the inference of Sir 
 Edward Belcher, and other Arctic navigators, who tell us that in 
 very high latitudes the ice appears to be in motion much earlier 
 than it is farther to the South. On the 20th of May the western 
 side of Smith's Sound has been found to be quite open for navi- 
 gators in a boat, whilst Barrow Strait is not navigable till late 
 in August, The consequence of this would appear to be that 
 whatever ice may be set free far north early in the year is detained 
 in more southern latitudes until the fall. Another cause also 
 operating in keeping the ice off the coast until the spring of the 
 year may be the wind. Although icebergs, with regard to their 
 motion, and the direction of the wind, often present curious 
 anomalies, yet this must to a slight degree be influential on 
 their wanderings. In the "fall" of the year the prevalent winds 
 on the North American side of the Atlantic are generally speaking 
 from the west, which tend to keep all bergs out at sea, and thus, 
 
 ' Sir James Ross, from his observations in the Antarctic Seas, infers from the 
 greater diit'erence between the temperatures of the sea and air in winter-time than in 
 summer, that it is at the former season of the year that the greater number of bergs 
 are detached. 
 
6 
 
 J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfoundland. 
 
 to obsorvora on tlio land, thoy would be lost sight of; but in the 
 spring of tho yonr the winds aro nioro or less northerly, which 
 woiild only aid the current in bringing tho ico along shore. The 
 most ap[)arcnt suggestion for tho detention of the ice before reaching 
 the shores of Labrador and Newfoundland is of course the distance 
 it has to travel ; but connidoring tho steady rate at which this is 
 carried on in tho stream which bears thorn, the eifocts of wind, and 
 the delay in tho breaking up of tho Southern Arctic barrier must 
 have the precedence. 
 
 I'heoreticnl considcrationa on tlie Flotation of Icebergs. — The ice- 
 bergs 1 had the opportunity of seeing daily for several weeks whilst 
 in the neighbourhood of St. John's, although irregular in their 
 outlines, were by no means of such varied form*? as many that were 
 seen afterwards. Several apparently very small pieces, projecting 
 perhaps not more than a foot out of water, when api)roached showed 
 themselves as considerable masses, their magnitude being hidden by 
 their submergence. In the " offing" "islands of ice," as tho bergs 
 are here called, wore to bo seen moving southwai'ds, whilst in the 
 bay several of them were always to be seen aground. These latter, 
 as they slowly roso and fell with the ever-varying swell caused by 
 the wind and tide, were deranging and grinding away the beds on 
 which they rested, ^he enormous power that one of these islands 
 of ico must possess to do such work may faintly be conceived by 
 approaching one of them in a boat, and then considering that, 
 although there is a mountain above water, there is from seven 
 to nine times its mass beneath the surface. The depth of water in 
 which one of these ponderous masses of ice can ground may often 
 be more limited than has generally been expressed. When the berg 
 first leaves its parent the glacier, its sides may be more or less 
 parallel to each other, and we may sometimes get a near approach 
 to a prismatic form. In this case not only would there be about 
 eight times tho bulk of ice beneath the water as there is above, but 
 also there will bo about eight times the depth, and we might 
 conceive, as Jukes and Gcikie tell us in their " Geology" (p. 41G), 
 that if the mass rises " 300 feet above the waves," we may imagine 
 that it " has its bottom 2,400 feet below them." In the Arctic and 
 Antarctic regions we may therefore imderstand the immense depths 
 at which an iceberg can ground, and there disturb the strata. As 
 bergs travel towards lower latitudes, as towards Newfoundland, 
 what with the beating of the waves and the changing of temper- 
 ature they of necessity lose a great deal of tho regularity of character 
 they may previously have possessed. Tho greatest loss appears to 
 be upon the portion exposed to the atmosphere, but, perhaps, more 
 noticeable " between wind and waters." 
 
 As this waste goes on, the berg must rise, and the ratio of the 
 height of tho exposed portion to tlio depth of that which is hidden 
 grows greater. Tho result of this is that the exposed portion be- 
 comes less and less in difimcter than tl.ut which is protected beno'jth 
 the surface of the water, which at last may be looked upon as x l> 'ud 
 of foot or pedestal. 
 
J, Milnc-^Tcc and Ice-tcork in NewfoundlamL Y 
 
 Tlmt borgs, instead of descending in parallel sides beneath tho 
 surface of the water, rather extend outwards in tho form of a broad 
 base, depends on the assumption that the disintegration is carried on 
 at a greater rate above water than below. 
 
 Apart from these theoretical considerations, it world seem from 
 actual observations, that although iceljergs have occasionally been 
 Seen in low latitudes to ground in deep water, as mentioned by 
 De la Becho in his " Geological Observer," where one is recorded as 
 being stranded in 720 feet of water on tho Banks of Newfoundland, 
 the bulk of them is only to bo seen upon the shoals. In fact the 
 grounding of icebergs is used by both tho lishermen of Newfound- 
 land and Labrador as a means of finding out shallows which may bo 
 used as fishing-grounds. 
 
 If a berg is seen to ground some distance out at 3'^", its bearings 
 from the land are at once observed, and it is in this way that many 
 of tho banks have been discovered. 
 
 If, instead of taking such an extreme case as the one to which I 
 have been referring, where the generally peaked appearance of a 
 berg, as seer above water, might be imagined as standing on a wide- 
 spread flat base beneath the water, we consider the portion of the 
 berg beneath the water as being a general contintuvtion of that above, 
 even in this case it will be seen to be very improbable that the ice 
 extends to the great depth which is usually assigned to it. 
 
 /< 
 
 i\ 
 
 rM 
 
 '\ 
 
 V 
 
 V 
 
 J 
 
 
 XT 
 
 \ 
 
 A 
 
 ^ 
 
 r 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 B 
 
 For example, in the accompanying figure let A B be the surface 
 of water in which we see a piece of ice floating as indicated by the 
 black line, tho general direction of that beneath the water corre- 
 sponding to that which is above. Approximating to such a figure, 
 draw on the " give-and-take " system a many-sided pyramid, or in 
 the limiting case a cone approximately equal in volume to that of 
 the supposed berg. This is shown by the dotted line. We have 
 given that the position of the cone beneath the surface of the water 
 to that which is exposed are to each olhor in the ratio of 8 to 1. 
 
8 
 
 J. Milne — Ice and Ice- Work in Newfoundland. 
 
 Therefore the vc'ame of the whole cone, which we will call V, is to 
 that which is exposed, which we will call v, as 9 is to 1, i.e. V _ 9 
 
 • ~r. 
 
 But also, as similar solids are to each other in yolume as the cubes 
 of their corresponding dimensions, 
 
 I _i_ (^ + H)' 
 
 where h equals the height of the small cone of ice above water, and 
 H equals the depth of ice below the surface, 
 
 whence MlE = V^ 9 = 2-080 
 
 h 
 
 :, H = ^ X 1-080 
 
 which is equivalent to saying that in a floating cone of ice the depth 
 
 below the surface of the water is but very little greater than that 
 
 V 8 
 
 which is exposed above. If the ratio of — had been equal to r, then 
 
 H would equal h, or the depth helow equal that which is exposed above. 
 That the cone would tend to float with the apex upwards rather than 
 downwards, may be inferred from the fact that this latter position, 
 where the base would be upwards, would raise the centre of gravity 
 nearer to the surface of the water, and thus bring about a condition 
 of equilibrium not so stable as if the apex had been upwards. 
 
 These considerations, it must be borne in mind, are purely theo- 
 retical, and are onlj' used as a means of giving a clearer idea of some 
 of the conditions under which ice may bo found floating, and esjjeci- 
 ally such ice as has suffered disintegration in its wanderings. 
 
 Aspect of Newfoundland. — It has been suggested that the so-called 
 glacial effects which are universally seen in temperate, and even in 
 tropical regions, may in many cases have been due to an ocean on 
 which great icebergs floated. These, as they moved from point to 
 point (like huge pepper-castors), strewed broadcast boulders and 
 detrital matter, such as are now to be seen over an area like that of 
 Kussia and parts of North America. The effect of the force of 
 impact of these tremendous masses has also been dwelt on, and the 
 way in which they could grind, smooth down, or rub up the surface 
 of a submerged area, has also often been referred to. 
 
 Should the aro<A thus acted on be a rising one, on its emergence it 
 may show definitely the characters that have been impressed upon 
 it, and these perhaps may in some respects be analogous to those 
 produced by land ice. In the explanation of the superficial aspects 
 of a country from some such considerations as these, one man 
 may take his stand ujion a glacier, and another upon an iceberg. 
 An iceberg theory has been advanced in the case of Newfoundland 
 as an explanation of the physical features of the island (see Quart. 
 Journ. Geol. Soc, 18Y4, vol. xxx. p. 722). From the numerous 
 raised beaches containing Mya arenana and other Atlantic species 
 still living in the surrounding seas, Newfoundland appears to have 
 risen in later geological times. The island itself, its principal bays, 
 its jnountains, its lakes and rivers, its lines of igneous protrusions, 
 its ice-grooves and scratches, and the general strike of the rocks, 
 
J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfoundland. 
 
 9 
 
 which, as was shown by Jukes, may in part account for the 
 tendencies of the other features, have all been shown to trend from 
 about 27° E. of North to 27° W. of South. 
 
 These curious coincidences were in pari; explained by supposing 
 Newfoundland as a rising area submerged 3000 feet beneath its 
 present level, and some denuding agent like the present Arctic 
 current with its load of icebergs passing over it. This theory, I 
 believe, is looked upon as being considerably strengthened by ob- 
 servations over a large part of North-east America. With regard to 
 the Newfoundland portion of the Western Continent, I wish to show 
 that it is not so clearly to be demonstrated. 
 
 After watching several icebergs grounding, it appears to me that 
 they would tend to give anything but a parallelism in their abrading 
 action. 
 
 An iceberg aground slowly lurches and rolls, and turns from side 
 to side, as it is differently affected by the wind, the tide, or a cur- 
 rent, evidently tearing up and grinding in several directions the 
 strata on which it rests. 
 
 To conceive the method in which icebergs acted to form the 
 "parallelism of features," as seen in Newfoundland, a picture must 
 be drawn, which I am afraid will hardlv be taken as the true one. 
 As the island rises, the lines of valleys and of the hills have been 
 formed, and along these troughs, and by the ridges, the icebergs 
 pass. This initial direction may, amongst other causes, be due to 
 the configuration of pre-existing land, to the general direction in 
 which detrital matter is strewn by an ocean curreut. Whilst the 
 land is stiU beneath the surface of the water, we must imagine these 
 huge islands of ice tripping along from hill-top to hill-top, some- 
 times just grazing the sides of a submerged valley, and sometimes 
 scouring the surface of a hill, like butterflies before a breeze which 
 try to stop at every tempting flower. 
 
 That they may have scattered the boulders which are to be found 
 in most parts covering Newfoundland does not appear to be so great 
 an impossibility as that they were the originators of the parallelisms ; 
 but even these, from the observations made by myself and my com- 
 panion, the late Mr. T. G. B. Lloyd, F.G.S., during the summer of 
 1874, it appears to me that they might be ascribed to another origin. 
 
 Ice-Marhs in Newfoundland. — On the eastern coast of Newfound- 
 land, from the extreme South to Kirpon on the Noilh, a distance of 
 300 miles, boulders and other indications of ice-action are to be seen 
 in most parts ; reference to them has been made in the Quart. Journ. 
 Geol. Soc, London, 1874, vol. xxx., p. 725. Near St. John's, ice- 
 grooves and scratches are to be seen up to considerable heights, 
 whilst drift v/ ith well-marked stones cover the country. The narrow 
 neck of land that separates the Bays of Trinity and Placentia affords 
 considerable ovidenco of ice- work. Standing on the water-parting 
 whi; h divides the streams into one of these bays from those entering 
 tlie other, the contour of the country, which is typical of many 
 other parts of Newfoundland, may easily be viewed. All around is 
 a rough brown surface of berry-bearing bushes and stunted spruce. 
 
10 
 
 J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfotmdlanch 
 
 dotted here and there, over whicli there are small soft green marshes. 
 These latter j^enerally form the border to many a quiet pool, the dark 
 surface of wliich seems only to be made as a reflector for a passing' 
 cloud or some bare ice-marked hummock, a few of which rise here 
 and there, forming undulations in the surrounding level. In such 
 places as this the rivers of Newfoundland have their source. 
 Looking down the valley towards one of the bays, your eye wanders 
 over a flat-topped expanse of spruce and other underwood, through 
 which a few scattered pine-trees sometimes lift their heads. To the 
 right and left of this dark mass of stunted underwood there is a 
 line of scai-p-faced hills, which look as though they might once have 
 been feeders of moraine to a glacier which, as it slowly pressed 
 itself downwards, ground against their sides. Above the clifi's along 
 the sky-line of the hills, a few large boulders are distinctly visible. 
 On climbing to the top of these hills, you would see beneath your 
 feet a chain of lakes and ponds dotted in amongst the trees. Each 
 of these would have its fringing of green marsh, across which a 
 dark line showing the trampled path of the wandering ' (Jariboo * 
 would be well marked. Connecting these lakes in their upper 
 portions are a series of rapids and small waterfalls ; whilst lower 
 down, as we approach the tideway, there are often long ' reaches ' of 
 steady water. Further north, similar signs are visible, — in Bona- 
 vista Bay, in Green Bay, and in many others. 
 
 In Green Bay, or, as it is sometimes called, " the Bay of Notre 
 Dame," on the highlands above Belt's Cove, the country, for many 
 miles in extent, is thickly strewn with boulders. 
 
 The climb up to this boulder-land (which on the side next the sea 
 forms steep cliffs) is a precipitous one ; on reaching the top you are on 
 a brown-looking country in the main undulating as if ice-worn. In 
 the depressions there are either small ponds or marshes, which are 
 bounded by bare hummocks. Sometimes a small cliif-like scarp 
 looks down upon you from still higher ground. The boulders are 
 strewn everywhere, but more particularly upon the highest ground, 
 and often upon extreme points. Several boulders were so perched on 
 two points that they formed an archway beneath, which could be 
 seen at a distance of several miles. In another case one boulder was 
 seen resting upon another. In form they were subangular. Frag- 
 ments were taken from these, and also from boulders in several other 
 districts, and, so far as my examination went, I found that, if not 
 represented by the rock of the surrounding country, they had 
 representatives further west, and this generally in the Laurentian 
 granites. Mr. Alexander Murray, F.G.S., of the Geological Survey, 
 has made the same observation. Now if these boulders had been 
 deposited by Icebergs, this ])ortion of Newfoundland must at the very 
 least have been 1000 feet lower than it stands at present. During 
 the time of its elevation, and especially at the time of its emergence, 
 those boulders must have been subjected to a considerable amount of 
 rough usage, and have received many rolls. If they were protected 
 by a covering of drift, which, to secure them from the action of the 
 sea, must have been many hundreds of feet in thickness, then the 
 
J. Milne — Ice and Ice-icork in Newfoundland. 
 
 11 
 
 surface-configuration of the country might be difficult to be accounted 
 for. Rough treatment, such as boulders receive upon a beach, would 
 hardly have relinquished them in their present subangular condition, 
 nor would it have left them upon the highest ridges, or poised them 
 ui)on a peak, or perched them one upon another. On the other 
 hand, 1 think it would rather have tended to smoothen them down 
 and deposit them in heaped confusion in the valleys, and they would 
 probably, in that case, have been derived from the North-East rather 
 than from the West, as they seem to indicate. Let alone the 
 mechanical forces, which are constantly at work upon a beach, the 
 ordinary processes of disintegration, the result of subaerial conditions, 
 must have exercised considerable influence during the ages that 
 have elapsed, whilst the land was rising to its present elevation, and 
 this especially upon such soft rocks as serpentine, of which many of 
 these erratics consist. Such boulders as these seem to point to another 
 origin rather than to that of a sea full of icebergs. 
 
 Further to the north the same circumstances are here and there 
 presented. Sailing up the long straight shore of White Bay, a line of 
 hills, whose topmost heights are fringed with boulders, are seen 
 trending away before you to the northward, until their escarpment 
 which faces the Atlantic grows dim, and is lost to view in the distance. 
 After the red cliffs of Conohe (which are almost the only fragment of 
 Devonian Shale in Newfoundland) have been passed, Kirpon, the 
 most northern settlement in the island, is reached. Boulders are to 
 be found here, and some of them of immense size. 
 
 Western Newfoundland. — After leaving Kirpon, we pass the 
 northern end of the long range of granitic hills, running parallel 
 with the western coast, forming the great backbone of the country, 
 and which give to it, in some reppects, a contour not unlike that of 
 Arabia, the slope leading to the eastern coast being flat and long, 
 whilst that to the west is short and steep. 
 
 On the eastern side, from what I have already stated, it will be 
 seen that boulders often form a prominent feature in the landscape, 
 but on the west they have hitherto been found to be wanting. Last 
 year (1874), however, I found them at several places, especially in 
 Louis Hills. They all seemed to point to the Laurentian backbone 
 for their origin. Eoches moutonnues are not so prominent upon the 
 west as they are upon the east, but scratchings and groovings along 
 the shore (which will be spoken of hereafter uruer the head of 
 Coast-Ice) are common everywhere.^ 
 
 Drift. — In addition to all these evidences of ice- work seen in the 
 shape of boulders and scratched rock surfaces, we have here and 
 there patched over the country large deposits of drift filled with 
 regularly striated rock-fragments. 
 
 1 Many of the effects of ice now seen in Nora Scotia are described by Dawson in 
 liis " Acadian Geolop-y," p. 64, et neq., us resembling those now produced by frost 
 and floating ice. Blocks of stone are shown to hav. travelled from elevation to 
 elevation, across valleys which may have been accomplished by ice-floes or bergs. 
 Other blocks again are shown to have travelled from low plains to the summit of hills, 
 which is explained on the supposition that the land at the time of their deposit being 
 slowly subsiding, and the ice-tields of successive years raising them higher and higher. 
 
12 
 
 J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfoundland. 
 
 
 I 
 
 In the neighbourhood of St. John's the drift-covering is noticeably 
 full of such stones. Similar material covering the country may also 
 be seen in many other parts of the Avalon peninsula, where we 
 have good sections of an unetratified clayey base, containing both 
 pebbles and boulders. 
 
 Further to the north Mr. Murray has observed these superficial 
 deposits occurring on a much larger scale. In Little Bay, near 
 Terra Nova Mine, he has noted deposits consisting of " probably fifty 
 or sixty feet of stratified clay, gravel, and sand containing modern 
 marine shells at the height of about 40 feet above high-water mark." 
 
 In Hall's Bay, up Indian Brook, he also noted stratified deposits 
 of clay, " which is sometimes of a reddish and sometimes of a drab 
 or bluish colour." Although these stratified deposits appear to show 
 a divergence from what has hitherto been observed by Packard and 
 others in the neighbouring mainland of Labrador, they show con- 
 siderable relation and similarity to observations which have been 
 made further up the valley of the St. Lawrence in Canada. It 
 would seem that at no very remote period Newfoundland has been 
 almost if not entirely subjected to the action of ice. To this fact 
 the rounded hills, the basin-shaped hollows, the scored rocks, the 
 erratic blocks and the immense coverings of drift, all bear testi- 
 mony; but the mode in which all these phenomena have been 
 brought about is a matter so speculative that I shall refrain from 
 doing more than indicating a possible manner in which they may 
 have occurred, rather than attempting to give any definite solution to 
 such an obscure enigma. 
 
 Conclusions. — The general conclusions which might appear 
 naturally to result from a consideration of observations made by 
 myself during two summers travelling in the island, and also those 
 made by other geologists, are as follows : — 
 
 If Newfoundland has been steadily rising during past ages, as it 
 now appears to have done at no very remote geological period, it may 
 have been beneath the surface of the ocean. During the period 
 when it was undergoing elevation, no doubt a considerable amount 
 of debris and boulders were dropped by icebergs over its surface 
 when the Laurentian backbone, which would be the first land to 
 emerge, reached the surface, it formed a barrier for the coast-ice 
 which would carry its load of boulders and strew thera with those 
 of the bergs. This latter, as will hereafter be shown, might to 
 some degree have been influential in giving a definite character to 
 the rising area. After the final emergence the climate of New- 
 foundland might still have been a cold one, and the same highlands 
 which gave birth to coast-ice, probably next gave birth to glaciers 
 which scooped and hollowed out a great portion of the remaining 
 marine drift, and left the island with its present contour. After the 
 raising of the great North-East and South-East ranges, first coast- 
 ice flowed East and West, and afterwards the glaciers followed in 
 a similar direction, and thus perhaps the origin of the boulders, those 
 which are so curiously perched being due rather to the latter than 
 to the formei'. Thus it would scorn that icebergs and coast-ice pre- 
 
J. Milne — Ice and Ice- work in Newfoundland. 
 
 18 
 
 3eably 
 ly also 
 |re we 
 
 both 
 
 ^rficial 
 near 
 
 fifty 
 
 iodern 
 lark." 
 jposits 
 drab 
 show 
 rd and 
 con- 
 been 
 la. It 
 been 
 is fact 
 cs, the 
 testi- 
 ) been 
 from 
 
 ceded glaciers, but to say what might have come before the former 
 of these agents, would only be diving deeper into the depths of a 
 sea of speculation. From the scantiness and want of detail in their 
 observations, it is useless attempting definitely to correlate them 
 with those conditions observed in the adjoining continent of America, 
 where it has been shown " that the oldest glacial deposits have 
 yielded evidence of inter-glacial mild conditions " similar to those 
 of the British Isles and Europe (Great Ice-age, Jas. Geikie, p. 428). 
 
 Coast Ice of Newfoundland. — Icebergs have an advantage over 
 coast-ice in their imposing appearance, which has perhaps been in 
 part instrumental in raising them to the high position which they 
 now occupy as workers of Geological changes. Many Manuals of 
 Geology, and many diagrams drawn to illustrate the same science, 
 have oft-times portrayed a well-known flat-topped berg, carrying 
 a rock, in the Antarctic regions; but neither books nor lecture- 
 diagrams, taken collectively, give any adequate idea of coast-ice as 
 a similar agent. From what I have seen of coast-ico and of its 
 effects, I feel persuaded that it is an agent of at least as great, if not 
 of greater universality than either glaciers or icebergs, and taken 
 as a whole perhaps also as an agent of equal power. Of the 
 various forms of sea-ice known as "berg-ice," "floe-ice," "pack- 
 ice," and the like, the portion I would more particularly draw 
 attention t(j is that variety which forms a narrow belt along the 
 shore, known in Greenland as the " Ice-Foot." 
 
 It would appear that in the formation of the " Ice-Foot," just as in 
 the precipitation of rain, and in the production of other natural phe- 
 nomena, we may have either one or many causes called into operation. 
 SometimeiS' these may all be equally active, whilst at other times the 
 role taken by one cause is more important than that taken by another, 
 all being governed by circumstances. Geikie, in " The Great Ice 
 Age," pp. 67 and 68, tells us that the Ice-Foot of Greenland " owes its 
 origin to the action of the tides." " Tlie first frost of the late summer 
 covers the sea with a crust of ice, which, caiTied upwards along the 
 face of the cliff by the tide, eventually becomes glued to the rocks." 
 It thus " grows in thickness with every successive tide, until it may 
 re-r^v, a height of 30 feet, and sometimes even more, presenting to 
 the sea a bold wall of ice, against which the floes grind and crush." 
 
 In Newfoundland and the South Coast of Labrador, although the 
 formation of the Ice-Foot is no doubt oftentimes very similar to this, 
 there are yet other agents, besides that of the tide, which are equally 
 active. 
 
 First wo will imagine this formation taking place on a gently- 
 sloping shore. 
 
 The Ice-Foot. — The blasts of December and January drive the 
 spray high up upon the land, and there it freezes as a cake of ice ; 
 day after day and night after night this continues, and the crust 
 grows thicker. A drift or fall of snow may help it in accumulating, 
 until it is at last from two to three feet in thickness. Stones of all 
 sizes, fi-om pebbles to boulders, on which this coating may rest, are 
 now firmly sot in " an icy maw " of ice, and are ready at the first 
 
14 
 
 J, Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Newfoundland. 
 
 movement to cut and grind a path for themselves. The first calm 
 weather the sea freezes out from this to form an equivalent to the 
 "bay-ice" of the Greenland whalers. This, however, is only a 
 thin coating, which is either broken up or piled upon itself by the 
 first rough water coming from the " outside," or is driven off by 
 a land breeze. This generally goes on until some portion of the 
 Northern pack, coming south, meets with an adverse wind and 
 is driven ashore. When we reflect upon the immense mass con- 
 tained in one of these moving fields of ice, we can hardly conceive 
 the energy that is stored within it. Everything has to give way 
 before it, and the coast-ice, with its set of gravers firmly bedded 
 in its base, is pushed high a id dry, sometimes as much as 100 yards, 
 back from high-water mark.^ It is in this way, by the coming in 
 of the Northern Pack, the rise and fall of the tide, and other causes, 
 that the land-ice is driven ashore, and many of the scratches and 
 grooves so common round the coast of Newfoundland have been 
 made. As a rule, these markings are remarkable for their definition. 
 Some of the scratches are so parallel, so long, and so like each other, 
 and even in their character from end to end, that at first sight their 
 origin might be doubted. Markings like these may be well seen in 
 the harbour of St. John's Island. The rock in which they are im- 
 pressed is a Calciferous Limestone, sloping gently seaward. It looks 
 as though it had been planed perfectly flat, and then a series of 
 parallel lines several yards in length, from three to six inches apart, 
 and from ^ to ^ of an inch in depth, had been evenly ruled across 
 the prepared surface. Sometimes, instead of these lines crossing an 
 even plane, similarly-marked smooth trough-like hollows have been 
 formed. These increasing in size in places give quite an undulating 
 character to the shore, as at the entrance to Terra Nova Kiver and 
 elsewhere. 
 
 Such a piling up of ice by the driving in of the pack, wh- ther it 
 be inland or ashore, is amongst the sealers termed " raftering." At 
 a certain distance out from land, where the pack-ice can float, it 
 breaks off from that which is cemented to the shore. This latter, 
 no matter how it may have been formed, whether by spray or piled- 
 up pack-ice, goes under the general name of "balacada." It has 
 been suggested to me that this term, like many Newfoundland 
 names, may have its origin from the Spanish, it being a corrupted 
 fonn of " barricade," a name very suggestive of the appearance 
 and conditions it is intended to describe. The edge of the " bala- 
 cada" is termed the "drain," which may average a depth of 
 about four fathoms, up and down, while through the agency of 
 wind and tide a continual chafing action is going on.* If the pack- 
 ice can float up and down along the foot of a cliff, or in deep water 
 near rocks, the consequences ivre the formation of horizontal grooves 
 
 * In the selection of Arctic papers for the Arctic Expedition of 1875, publiFhed 
 hy the Royal and lloyal Geographical Societies, p. 49, Robert Brown speaks of 
 sheet-ice and boulders during storms being driven and packed to a height of oO feet. 
 
 "^ The grating against vertical cliffs is referred to in De lu Becha's " Geological 
 Observer," p. 280, and at p. 282 on coast-ice generally. 
 
J, Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Neuifoundland. 
 
 15 
 
 Inceive 
 
 and scratches, and these in cases are carried to such an extent that 
 the cliflf may be undercut. The " balacada," in a position of this 
 sort, is formed by the spi'ay, and projects out a foot or two from the 
 face of tlie cliff ; the drain, with its floating-ice, being beneath. 
 
 In addition to the work done in scratching and grooving by the 
 coast-ice, it also does much in the transportation of material. When 
 in deep water, dealing along the face of a cliff, by its own horizontal 
 and vertical movements, together with its continued force of impact 
 on a heaving swell, it must detach a considerable amount of material. 
 This, together with that which may fall upon its edge from the 
 rocks above (which appear to be universally greater at the breaking 
 up of a frost than at any other season of the year), is carried by the 
 coast-ice to a new home. The chief agent, however, in the transpor- 
 tation of material is the " balacada," barrier-ice or ice-foot, attached 
 to the shore. At low water this freezes to the ground on a shelving 
 shore, and is at once firmly attached to both boulders and stones. 
 When the tide rises, this ice, with its cargo, floats, and may be carried 
 away. The difference in level between neap- and spring-tides is 
 another cause which greatly accelerates the transporting power of 
 the " balacada." A land breeze assists in the dragging off of por- 
 tions that are only partially aground. These, with other causes, 
 are always, during the winter season, more or less in operation in 
 removing materials from one point to another.^ 
 
 This immense transportive power of the coast-ice often occasions 
 severe losses to the fishing population of Newfoundland and 
 Labrador. Various articles, to remove which would involve con- 
 siderable difficulty, such as anchors and cables, having been left 
 upon the beach, have been carried off by the ice; — it has come 
 along, and after, so to sny, glueing itself to everything upon the 
 the shore, has floated off with all to which it was attached. At 
 three harboui's. Tilt Cave, Englee, and Goose Cove, I heard lamen- 
 tations over losses of this description ; and no doubt, upon inquiry, 
 similar cases might be recorded of every fishing settlement both 
 in Labrador and Newfoundland. The fishermen seem to have 
 transferred the name "Anchor Ice," from its original idea of ice 
 which anchors itself to the bottom, to ice of this description which 
 endangers the equipment of their vesse^ ^. Without actually freezing 
 beneath the surface of the water, as in some of the shallower parts 
 of the Baltic where ground-ice is formed, a species of anchor-ice is 
 formed by the freezing of the " balacada " so firmly to the ground 
 at low water, that at the rising of the tide it remains beneath the 
 surface of the water. The consequence of these transportive move- 
 ments is that much material, both boulders and pebbles are carried 
 out to sea, and then deposited in a manner similar to that which 
 
 ' Spoukina: of the Greenland Ice-Foot, Geikie, in his " Great Ice k^e," p. 68, 
 says that " diirin<^ summer vast piles of rock and rubbish crowd the surface of the 
 ice-loot." " To .^uch an extent does +]iis rock-rubbish accumulate tliat the whole 
 surface of the shelf is sometimes buried beneath it, and entirely hidden from view." 
 " Aloni"' the part of the coast of Greenland where the ice-foot is shed at the end of 
 evcrv summer, the quatitities of rock debris thus borne seawards must be something 
 prod^igious." 
 
16 
 
 J. Milne — Ice and Ice- work in Newfoundland. 
 
 has so often boon explained in the case of icebergs. Another con- 
 sequence is that similar materials are carried from point to point 
 along the coast, and on the disappearance of the ice are left as 
 monuments of its former existence. In places boulders may be 
 seen lining the shores in long lines, like tiers of barrels on a wharf, 
 as at Change Island. Boulders of this sort are referred to, and a 
 sketch of them is given, in Ly ell's Principles of Geology, vol. i. 
 p. 381. I have here spoken irrespective of the immense quantities 
 of boulders that are annually brought down attached to the ** ground- 
 ice " of rivers. 
 
 Movements of Coast-Ice. — On the first calm day the ice out at sea 
 along the edge of the pack commences to break up, and small lakes 
 and pools are formed between the pans. This appears to bo due to 
 the tide. In a calm five square miles of ice will rapidly open out 
 and spread over 20 miles, during which it is greatly smashed about 
 and tumbled. Capt. A. Jackman, to whom I am indebted for many 
 facts regarding the action and formation of coast- ice, informed me 
 that on one occasion he knew of two vessels closely wedged in the 
 ioe, which wei'o separated 20 miles apart in one night during a 
 calm. A wind from seawards only jams it the tighter on the land, 
 whilst one from the shore sends it off in a body until there is suffi- 
 cient water between it and the land, where a sea can form, upon 
 which the ice is speedily dispersed. In calm weather the pack 
 travels with the current, but at other times it follows the direction 
 of the wind. Icebergs, on the contrary, although affected by the 
 wind, have a more definite direction in their line of travel dependent 
 on currents. The consequence of this would appear to be that the 
 line of distribution of material derived from pack-ice is not so 
 definite in its direction as that of icebergs. In both cases the pro- 
 portion of the mass exposed above water to that which is submerged 
 is equal. The explanation therefore appears to lie mainly in the 
 fact that the pack only rests on the upper surface of the water, 
 which is affected by the wind, whereas the iceberg, descending to 
 greater depths, will move in a steady current unaffected by any such 
 surface disturbances. The ratio of the surface exposed above water 
 to that beneath it in the pan of ice, to that in the berg, must often- 
 times also be influential in the explanation of this phenomenon. 
 Should a berg bo entangled in a pack, and the tide be contrary to 
 the wind, the berg may hold its own against both the wind and 
 pack, and, so to speak, will force for itself a passage. Capt. A. 
 Jackman has, whilst frozen in the pack, travelled at the rate of from 
 two to three knots per hour past bergs, but whether these were 
 aground or not was not definitely stated. 
 
 Conclusiotis regarding Coast-Ice. — As before remarked, it would 
 appear that coast-ice might at least bo considered as an agent in the 
 production of Geological changes equal in power to either glaciers 
 or icebergs. 
 
 By this it is not wished to imply that a mile of coast-ice is equi- 
 valent to a mile of glacier, but rather that coast-ice, taken as a 
 whole, from the extent of its area, may be reasonably compared as 
 
J. Milne — lee and Ice-work in Newfoundland. 
 
 17 
 
 a modelliDg and disintegrating agent of our globe with either the 
 glaciers or icebergs.* 
 
 Looking at the Northern Hemisphere only, and comparing all the 
 deeply indented coast-lines, say that of North America and Green- 
 land, every yard of which is more or less subject to the action of 
 coast-ice, with the portions throwing off glaciers to form bergs, it 
 will be seen that the coast-ice must in quantity be infinitely greater 
 than the glaciers. All the vast ico-fields which break loose from 
 the frozen regions of the North, and we read of them 300,000 square 
 miles in extent, and seven feet in thickness, are, in their passage 
 South, driven in upon the land, and help to grind the coast-line and 
 transport its boulders. The Northern field-ice, when it arrives in the 
 latitudes of Newfoundland, is often seen to be covered with boulders, 
 gravel kelp, and other materials, showing it to have been at some 
 time or other in contact with the coast. Ice of this description is 
 well known to the sealers, who carefully avoid it, knowing that 
 seals will not be found upon " dirty jam." From this, together 
 with other information I collected, it would seem that, amongst the 
 inhabitants of Newfoundland, the action of coast-ice as a transporting 
 agent is universally recognized, whilst icebergs in the same latitudes 
 are seldom seen with earthy materials upon them. Capt. A. Jackman, 
 during about 30 years of ice-service on the coast of Newfound- 
 land and Labrador, only once saw a mass of stone of any size upon 
 a berg, whilst coast-ice, with its load of material, has continually 
 been met with. That this should be the case appears on considera- 
 tion to be evident ; for at the outset, when the berg leaves its parent, 
 the glacier, in these Northern regions, it has but little moraine 
 matter to carry,* whilst afterwards the winds tending to drive it in 
 upon the shore seem to affect it but little.^ Now and then it may 
 disturb the strata, and perhaps cany off a portion of the material 
 forming some bank on which it has happened to ground, but to 
 approach the land, as coast-ice does after leaving its birth-place, it is 
 for ever debarred. Carried along by a deep-sea current, with but 
 
 * Although it may bo said that glaciers arc not alone confined to Arctic regions, 
 but art also to be seen in the highlands of more temperate climates, it must not be 
 forgotten the distance south that coast-ice is found along shores like those of 
 liabrador, Newfoundland, and Siberia, where glaciers are unknown. 
 
 2 " Owing to the inland valleys (of Greenland) being filled up and levelled to the 
 tops of the hills, there is ^vell-nigh a total absence of those long trains of debris that 
 thunder down the steeps of the Alpine Mountains, and gather in heaps along the sides 
 of the glaciers." — Geikie, " The Great Ice Age," p. 62. Dr. Eink, however, saw 
 moraines above Fpemivik. 
 
 » It might be argued that the bergs carry a burden of rocks and debris frozen to 
 tlieir bases; but iu (xeikie's " Great Ice Age," p. 61, we read: — "A few stones may 
 occasionally remain frozen into the bottom of the detached iceberg, but it is evident 
 that the greater portion of the sub-glacial deposit must remain at the bottom of the 
 sea," and at p. 71 we read: "By tar the larger number of Arctic icebergs therefore 
 contain no extraneous matter, and melt away in mid-ocean mthout leaving behind 
 them any record of their voyage." However it would be unfair not to quote from 
 the observations of Robert Brown (Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc. 1870, p. 687), who 
 states that on ascending an iceberg he " almost invariably found moraine which had 
 sunk by the melting of the ice into hollows, deep out of sight of the voyager sailing 
 past." 
 
18 
 
 J. Milne — Ice and Ice-work in Nenifonndland. 
 
 ■^4 
 
 little care for wind or wave, it cleaves a course through ice and 
 water to more southern regions. 
 
 The work done by a glacier is slow and steady. On its surface it 
 carries all that may fall upon it, whilst at its base it annually 
 smootheus for itself deeper and deeper the rocky bed on which 
 it rests. 
 
 When floating-ice is pushed ashore, we have a somewhat similar 
 action ; but in addition to this steady pressure, coast-ice has another 
 mode of acting which is wanting in the glacier, viz. that of impact. 
 A faint conception of what this is may be derived from the accounts 
 we read of Arctic travel. "The growling and roaring," " the crash of 
 meeting floes and fields of ice," "the broad fields of ice several 
 hundreds of miles in area broken up into countless floes," "the 
 hummocks and hills that are piled up under the tremendous 
 pressure," have all been spoken of. 
 
 Scoresby gives a calculation of the blow which must be produced 
 by one of these immense fields of ice which he mentions, as being 
 equal to that of 10,000,000,000 tons. Now all these tremendous 
 blows delivered by ice-islands floating down upon each other must 
 be given in a similar manner to a rocky coast. 
 
 After once seeing the broken masses of the icy " pavement " of these 
 Northern regions scouring along by cliifs and islands, jostling and 
 cannoning with all it meets as it rises and falls on the heaving swell, 
 one cannot help being impressed with the immense amount of work 
 that it is capable of performing. 
 
 Possibility of a sequence in Ice-Action. — Tt has now boen shown 
 how coast-ice may, to a certain extent, give a character lo a coast- 
 line ; how it may, by impact, remove all asperities, and how, by 
 a steady pressure, it may groove and scratch, and even produce a 
 surface not unlike the rochea moutonnees of the glaciers. We will 
 now consider whether those markings may be reasonably expected 
 to remain as permanencies. 
 
 In Newfoundland, which appears to be a rising area, there is 
 every reason to suspect that many of the markings seen round the 
 coast, which have hitherto been attributed either to glaciers or 
 icebergs, have been impressed by coast-ice. Whatever the iceberg 
 may have done when the now dry surface was beneath the sea, on 
 emergence must in all probability have been obliterated, and the 
 surface remodelled by the action of the coast-ice. A striking in- 
 stance of this modelling of what is probably a rising area is seen at 
 Funk Island. This island lies almost 30 miles out in the Atlantic 
 to the East of Newfoundland. It is about half a mile in length, 
 very low and flat, and is situated right in the stream of the Arctic 
 ice. The northern end of the island, which has every year to face 
 this tremendous pressure of vast fields of ice, is visibly worn down 
 and covered with erratic boulders ; whilst the opposite extremity is 
 a low but abrupt clifi". Had the flow of ice been from the south, the 
 reverse would probably have been the case, and the low shelving 
 wedge-like shore, which forms a slide for the ice to mount together 
 with its load of boulders, would have been at the opposite extremity 
 
J, Milne — Ice and Ice- work in Neivfoundlnnd. 
 
 19 
 
 of the island. On a rising area of this bull the impressions tliat 
 have been wade appear certainly to affect in a permanent manner 
 oven the contour of the island, and it does not seem unreasonable 
 that scratches and boulders may in a rising area be similarly pre- 
 served. Should the rising area be in a climate like that of Green- 
 land, the effects of coast-ice would in time be planed away by 
 glaciers. If the area be a sinking one, the results may be reversed. 
 The surface configuration of the land, whether produced by glaciers 
 or other causes, will be remodelled by the coast-ice, and these in 
 their turn, on reaching deeper water, will be affected by the 
 icebergs. 
 
 Looking at the effects of ice-work in this way, we see that there 
 is a possibility of a sequence in their action. In high latitudes, 
 where the climate is a constant one, the sequence is definite. Should 
 the climate, however, be variable, we might have a surface scoured 
 by icebergs, and covered with debris not emerging from the sea, 
 until a warmer temperature had dissipated the icy pavement that 
 once floated, and in this way we might see the effects of icebergs in 
 the modelling of a land-surface. 
 
 THB XND. 
 
 
 
 ■TBrSKN AV8TIN AMD B0H8, PKIMTBBI, HEBTFOBD.