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Kt. ■■■'•.^■^(■•^H• *** The Pt ^LISHBRS respectfully invite COMMtrNICATIONS THAT TEND Ta THE IMPBOVEMENT OF THIS OR ANT OF THEIR WORKS. aiATl PREFACE, Although Newfoundland is the oldest colony of the British crown, and has been held to be an exceedingly valuable possession, not only on account of its fishery, but as lying directly at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and hence, commanding our communication with what is now called the Dominion of Canada, it has not been thoroughly surveyed and explored to the present day ; indeed, for a knowledge of a portion of it we are even indebted to the French, who held the island for a short time, and who. still enjoying certain treaty rights of fishing on the north and west coast, and still ruling in the small contiguous islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, have always taken great interest in the locality. The Sailing Directions contained in the following pages embrace the observa- tions of all English and French surveyors &om the time of Capt. Cook to the present year. The most extensive survey of Newfoundland was made by Cook, unci some parts have no^ yet been re-examined ; other parts have been carefully gone over and sufficiently well described by Lieuts. Holbrook and Bullock, Staff Commander Kerr, and Capts. Bayfield and Orlebar, of the Royal Navy. The observations of all these surveying officers are comprised in the following remarks, together with the researches of certain French hydrographers and naval officers, as M. De la Roclie Poncie, Pierre, Lavaud, Clone, Ac. — all having contributed valuable information over the area of their examination ; much of the latter being contained in the Pilote de Terre-Nauve, to which constant reference has been made. The Longitudes of all places in Newfoundland are dependent upon that of the Chaiu-rock battery, St. John's, viz. ;— 52° 40' 60" W. We have endeavoured to make this work the most complete yet published in this country on the island of NewfoundLmd and its hydrography, and trust that our efi'orts have been successful. It has been carefully revised in going through the press ; but as from the nature of the subject it is impossible that a work pur- IMuting to be a " Saihng Directory " can be, or can remain any length of time free fiom error, it is requested that any faults that may be detected in it be notified to the publishers, wlio will very thankfully receive and acknowledge communica- tions tending to its improvement. J.F.I. mt London. March, IH?:}. CONTENTS. General bemabks ••• ••• • •• ••• 1—8 1 . BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. Great bank 8 ; Virgin rocks, Reported shoals, Trou de la Baleine or Whale Deep, Green bank ; St. Pierre bank, Flemish Cap, Misaine bank, Artimon bank, Banquereau, Sable bank, Canso bank 10. ROUTE TO NEWFOUNDLAND, CURRENTS, &c. Route to Newfoundland 11 ; Passage through the strait of Belle Isle 12 ; Vicinity of cape Race 14 ; Fogs, Currents. &c., 16 ; Winds, Ice 16. CAPE BONAVISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. i. "■ < Cape Bonavista, Harry Ground 18 ; Dacres rock, &c.. Gull island, cape Largent, Bird Island cove, DoUarman bank 19 ; Catalina harbour. Green island 20 ; Ragged harbour, English bay and Salmon cove 21 ; Robinhood bay, Trinity harbour, Bonaventure head, Smith sound 22 ; Ragged islands, Old Bonaventure, Cat cove, New Bonaventure, Kerley, British harbour 23 ; Pope harbour, Hickman harbour, Hickman islands, Warwick harbour, Haydon point and Long harbour 24 ; Lower Lance cove. Snooks harbour 25 : Irelands Eye island and harbour. Tray Town harbour. Gunner rock, Black ledge, Green island, Anthony island 26 ; Duck island. Shag islets, Indian islets, the Thoroughfare, Indian rock, Random island. North-west arm, Little harbour 27 ; Long cove. Deer harbour, Verge island. Deer rock, Gun ledge. Random Head harbour 28 ; East Random head. West Random head, Random sound, Salmon cove. Quarry rock 29 ; Hickman harbour, Maggotty cove, South bight. Bald Nap and Forster rocks 30 ; Shoal harbour. Fox harbour, Little Heartsease, Hodge hole, Rocky har- bour, Long cove, St. Jones Within harbour 31 ; Hatchers cove, North bight, Long island. Green islets, Heartsease ledge, White rocks, Beaver rock, Heartsease inlet 32 ; Bald head, St. Jones head, Round harboui-, St. Jones harbour. Deer harbour 33 ; Poor Boy ledge, Big rock, Big island, Grub island 34 ; Shoal bay. Copper island 35 ; Centre hill, Bull island, Rix harbour. Bull ami 36 ; Tickle point. Bower ledge, Tickle bay. VI. CONTENTS. Big and Little Chance coves, Kantem cove .'J? ; Cottier, Ijonj^ cove and Chappie bay, Spreadeagle bay. Dildo arm, New harbour, Hopeall bay. Greens harbour. Witless bay .'JH ; Shoal bay. Hearts' Delight bay. Hearts' Desire bay. Hearts' Content 31) : White rock, I-'itters cove. New Perlican 40; Turks cove, Hants harbour. Seal cove. Salvage point. Salvage rocks, Riff Raffs, Knife rock 41 ; Hants Harbour rock. Block rock. Tail 01 the Bank, Old Perlican, Martins ledge 42 ; Baccalieu island. Wall rock. Inner Colling, Outer Colhns 48. BACCALIEU ISLAND TO CAPE FRANCIS. Black cove. Bay Verd cove. Gull Island cove. Kettle cove. Island cove. Devil's Point cove, Jove cove 44 ; Gull Island cove, Nortliern bay. Ochre Pit cove, Job rock, Western bay, Bradley cove. Broad cove, Adam cove, MuUy cove, Salmon cove, Percy cove. Folly rocks 45 ; Mad rock, Harton rocks, Bradley rock, Maider island, Crockers cove, Carbonear island, Carbonear bay, Kane rock. Saucy Joe, Mosquito cove, Harbour (xrace 4() ; Long Harr}', Salvage rock. Feather point, Grace islands 47 ; Ihyants cove, Spaniards bay 48 ; Mad point and rocks, Bay Roberts, Jugglers cove, Fergus islet, Roberts harbour 4!) ; Green point. Bay de Grave. Hibbs hole. Black cove, Blow-me-do\vn head, Ship cove, I'ort de Grave, Bareneed 50 ; Cupids cove, Burnt point, Brigus bay, Colliers bay, James cove 51 ; Bacon cove, Castries bay, Cat cove. Salmon cove. Harbour Main, Holy Rood bay. Broad cove and Portugal cove 52 ; Bell island, Bell rock. Little Bell island, Kelly island 5;<. CAPE ST. FRANCIS TO CAPE RACE. Cape St. I'rancis and Brandies rocks 53 ; Biscayue cove, Flat Rock cove. Tor bay, Tantam rocks. Red head, Longey cove 54 ; Quiddy Viddy, St. JoJins harbour, Wash-balls 55 ; Vestal rock, Carey rock. Pancake rock. Chain rock, Roby rock, Prosser rock, Merlin rock 50 ; Seal rock, St. Johns 57 ; cape Spear, St. George bank. Old Harry rock. Petty bay 58 ; Bay Bulls, Witless bay 59 ; Gull island. Green island, Mobile bay. Toad cove. Spear and Pebble islands, Great island 00 ; cape Neddick, Offer rock, Broyle harbour, Saturday ledge. Harbour rock (!l ; cape Broyle, Old Harry rock, Horse rock, Caplin bay G2 ; Goose island, Bois island, Ferryland harbour and head 03 : Crow island, Aqualbrt harbour. Black head. Chance bay, Clearcove rocks, Ferraeuse harbour 04 ; Bear cove, Renewse harbour, Kettlebottom rock, Sculpin shoal, Whaleback, Whitehoise, Shag 05 ; Renewse rocks. Bantam rocks 00 ; cape Ballard, Shoe cove, Chaucccuve head, Chance cove. Frenchman cove 67 ; Clam cove, cape Race, JJallard bank 08 ; Pig bank. General Remarks on making cape Race, &c., 09. CAPE RACE TO CAPE PINE— TREPASSEY BAY. Cripple rock, Mistaken point, Freshwater point, Trepasaey bay 71; I'ortugul covti, Bi&ciiy bay. Mutton Imy. Tropa.sM'y harbuiir 7-,* ; cajic I'ini' 7;i. CONTENTS CAPE PINE TO CAPl''. ST. M.VilY-ST. MARY'S BAY. vn. St. Shots covti 74 ; Freels rock, Gull island and Sliag rock, Holyrood bay 76 ; Bank rock, Great rock, St. Mary's harbour 70 ; Mai bay. Shoal bay. Great Colinet island. Little Colinet island, Mussel-pond bay 77 : Salmonier river, Haricot bay, Colinet harbour 7S ; Nortli harbour, 79; Redhead rock, Beckford shoal. Mussel rock, Redcove rock, Lance point, cape St. Mary 80 ; Lance rock. Bull and Cow, Sunker, False cay, St. Mary's cays 81. CAPE ST. MARY TO DANZIG POINT— PLACENTIA BAY. Seven-Fathom rock. Perch rock 82 ; Nest rock, Curslet rock, Patrick rock. Goose shoal, South rock, False Girdle, Girdle rock, Virgin rock, Placentia har- bour 83 ; Moll rock, Wolf rock, Placentia sound. Ship harbour 85 ; De Peche and Rowland rocks. Ram islands. Long harbour. White rook 86 ; Little South harbour, Great Soutli harbour, Come-by-Chance harbour, North harbour, Piper's Hole 87; Sound, Woody and Barren islands. Plant and Gulsh coves. Ship island. Great Sandy harbour. Bell island 88 ; Burgeo islands. White islands, Valen islands, Clatise harbour, Mera- sheen island and Ragged islands 89 ; Merasheen harbour, Indian harbour. Red island. Woody island. Long island. Buffet harbour 90 ; Mussel har- bour, Bread and Cheese islets, Presque and La Perche harbours, &c. 91 ; Great Paradise harbour. Paradise sound. Long island. Petit Fort, Monsuch harbour, Cape Roger harbour. Green island 92 ; Xittle and Great Gallows hurbours. Little harbour. Bay de 1'eau, Boat harbour. Bane and Rushoon harbours. Cross island. Broad cove and Red harbour 93 ; John-the-Bay harbour. Flat islands. Middle island. Saddle Back, Audierne island 94 , Fords island, Mortier bay, Boboy inlet 95 ; Little Mortier bay 96 ; Port- au-Bras, Iron island and outlying rock 97 ; Mortier bank. Burin island 98 ; Cockle rock, Pardy island, Shalloway island. Burin channel. Poor islet and rock 99 ; Mine rock, Oven rock. Hooper rock. Ship cove. Little Burin harbour 100 ; Burin inlet, Woody islet 101 ; Burin bay. Little Burin island, Emberly rock, Corbin island, Corbin harbour 102 ; Old Harry rock. Devil's cove 103 ; Little St. Lawrence harbour. Garden bank. Great St, Lawrence harbour 104 ; Laun bay 105 ; Taylor bay, Lamelin islands and reefs, TylcM- rock. Point May 106 ; Danzig point and coves 107. ST. PIERRE, LiVNGLADE, MIQUELON, BRUNET AND SAGONA ISLANDS, &c. St. Pierre island 107; St. Pierre harbour 108; Massacre island 109; Fletans channel, Colombier islets, General Remarks on St. Pierre 110; Verte island 111 ; Langlade and Miquelon 112 ; Miquelon reef, Veaux Marins, Miquelon bank, Brunet island 113 ; Little Brunets, Plate islands, Jersey- man bank, Sagona, the Fishery 114 ; Population 115. .-'.'.• \\i\. CONTENTS DANZKi POINT TO CAPE RAY— FOUTUNE, HERMITAGE BAYS. 4o. Fortune hay. Ship and Great Bunk ooves, Great Garnish and Frenchman cotar. point Knra^ee 110 ; Great Jersev Plate, Grand Jean and Langue de Cerf hiirboui'8. Jack Fountain, Argent and Millee harbours, Grand le I'ierre, English harbour 117 ; Water bay. New harbour, Femme harbour, Brewer's Mole, Le Gonte, Long harbour 1 18 : Belle bay, Hares harbour. Mall bay, Belle harbour ll!i ; Lally cove, Lally Back cove, East bay, North bay, Fivu Islands bay, Corben bay l'uth Broad cove, Minchins cove, Sandy cove, Adventure coves. North Broau ; n-e 173 ; Barrow harbour, Salvage bay 174; Morris cove, Va'w and FaL( bay, GoobebeiTy isles 176; New harbour. Cat cove 170 ; L'ouls harbour, Greeuspond, cape Freels, Penguin islands, Funk islands 178; B'°u in reef, Snap ijck, Wadham islands, Fogo islands, Fofj^/ harbour llv : Chan/]e T:Ln(ls Tickle, Toulinguet is- 'i^. land 1h() ; Hi.shop rooks, Tilt cov" lf>l. :t-,..": LU-Port 137, 5t. Gregory, ind Hawkea it. Margaret avage cove. Mauve bay, tds, Griguet e Cape har- , Vanguard west bay, ny harbour^ iree Mouu- rbour 166; 157; Croc Bouge is- e harbour, itt harbour White bay, LIGHTS. The foUowing is a complete List of the Lights shown at this date, March 18th, 1873, within the Umits of the Navigation described in this work. As a full description of them is given in the pages mentioned, it is unnecessary to add more detailed particulars : — Cape Bonavista . Baccalieu island. Catalina harbour Harbour Grace . St. Johns harbour Cape Spear . . Ferryland head . Cape Race. . . Cape Pine . . . Cape St. Mary . Burin island . . St. Pierre island. Fortune bay Cape Ra)' . Rich point. Cape Norman. Puffin island Offer Wadham island. PAOK. I Revolves in 45 seconds {red and white alt.) ; vis. ( 16 miles 18 Flashes every 20 seconds ; vis. 28 miles .... 43 Green island : — Fixed ; vis. 15 miles 20 North end of Grace island: — Revolves in 30 seconds (two white and one red flash alt.) : vis. 18 miles . 47 ' Point of Beach : — Two fixed (vertical, 11 yards t apart) ; 3 and 11 miles 47 Fort Amherst : — Fixed ; vis. 10 miles. Gun in fog eveiy hour. Also, two fixed red lights within the harbour to lead through the narrows, N.W. i W. . . 56 Revolves every minute ; vis. 23 miles 68 Fixed; vis. 16 miles. . i 03 Revolves in 30 seconds ; vis. 19 miles 68 Fixed; vis. 24 miles 78 ( Revolves every minute {red and white flash alt.) ; I vis. 26 miles 80 Revolves in 20 seconds ; vis. 27 miles ))8 iGalantry head : — Flashes every 20 seconds (two white and one red flash alt.) ; vis. 20 miles. Guns in fog 107 St. Pierre harbour ; two leading lights, N.W. . . 108 f Brunet island : — Flashes every 10 seconds ; via. 25 \ miles Il4 Flashes every 10 seconds ; vis. 20 miles .... 134 Flashes every 15 secondd ; vis. 18 miles .... 141 Revolves in two minutes ; vis. 20 miles .... 14(t Fixed red; vis. 12 miles 177 Fixed ; vis. 12 miles 17tf rch 18th. \s a full y to add VkOS. VIS. 18 ^ ^ 43 'iO 30 via. 47 ards , 47 ti in thin ows, . 66 . 68 134 141 14(i 177 17U SAILING DIRECTIONS FOB NEWFOUNDLAND kSD ASJAOEMX COAST OF LABEADOR. *** The Bearings and Courses throughout this Work are Magnetic] unleit I otherwise expressed. The amount of westerly variation (1872) at the various points within the limits \of this work is as follows : — , Virgin Rocks 30° 30' {CapeEace 29° 50' ISt. John's Sr 30' \Cape Bonavista 33° 20' IGape Freels 33° 60' \Canada Bay 36° [Cape Bauld 37° 10' leUe Isle 37° 50' Cape Norman .... Anchor and Forteau Points Point Rich. Bonne Bay d Cape Whittle Cape Pine Plaoentia 30° 20' Miquehn Island 28° 20' Cape Ray 27° 60' «3 1 68 , . 78 It); 80 U8 two les. . 107 . 108 .25 114 The general line of equal variation on the eastern shores of Newfoundland rum bout N.W. by W. ^ W. and 8.E. by E. J E., true; and in the Oulfof St. Law- ence N. W. by W. and 8.E. by E.', true. The Distances are in Nautical miles, — 60 to a Degree of Latitude. A Cable is assumed to be i\ of a Nautical MUe and equal to 100 Fathoms. PAKT I. NEWFOUNDLAND. GENERAL REMARKS. mawromn^ZJUis lies between latitudes 40° 40' and 61* 30' N., and longi- ides 62° 44' and 59° 81' W. It was probably discovered at an early period by lie Northmen ; but no use was made of the discovery, and it remained lown to Europeans until John and Sebastian Cabot, on their second pyage, discovered cape Bonavista, on the 24th of June, 1407. After this Ime Portuguese formed a settlement on the island, from which they were ^riven the English under Sir Francis Drake in the reign of Elizabeth. 19 IHIO » a ■>•' ^ *■.'.■ 87» 36' 34° 10' ■;s<' 81° 40' r-e^ 29° 30' v;yi m I .■• ' ■ s NEWFOUNDLAND. charter waa granted to a company of merchant adventurers of London and Bristol, and a colony was established at Conception bay. From this time numerous settlements were continually made along the east coast by the English, while the French established themselves on the south, at Placentia, in the bay of that name, and maintained possession of it until the treaty of Utrecht, in April, 1713. By this treaty Newfoundland and its dependencies were declared to belong whoUy to Great Britain, but the French were allowed to fish and cure what they caught on certain parts of the shore; and at a subsequent date fishermen from the United States were also allowed certain privileges in the great fishery. Newfoundland is nearly 300 miles long from cape Ray (Raye or Split cape, so called by the French from its appearance at sea) to cape Quirpon, on the N.E. ; and about 260 miles wide from cape Race (Raze), on the east coast, again to cape Ray on the west. It contains about 40,000 square miles, and is of triangular form, very narrow towards the North, — hence called by the French "Petit Nord," — very wide at the soutliem base, and having attached to it, as it were, the great peninsula of Avalon, separated from the great island by the bays of Placentia and Trinity and joined to it by an isthmus of only 2 or 3 miles, and this province is again divided by the two noble bays of St. Mary and Conception. In no other part of the world are there more noble bays and harbours than in Newfoundland. For 80 to 90 miles the ocean penetrates by great arms into the land, conveying to the doors of its inhabitants the treasures of the deep, and affording them a cheap means of conveying their produce to market, such as a hundred millions spent in railways could not procure. It is most providential that everytliing required to carry out the great industry of the country — the fishery — is found here better than in any part of the world, — the bays and har- bours, the vicinity of the gi-eat breeding grounds, the abundance of wood adapted for boat building, cooperage, flakes, and stages, the bracing winds and absence of I a burning sun for drying, the rocky ledges — the feeding ground of the cod, and, above nil, the hardy, daring sons of the soil, men nurtured in danger, recked in the tempest, men to whom the severest hardships are only sport, who know no danger, who tread the frozen ocean with as firm a step as their native soil, and yearly undergo without a murmur more danger than usually falls to the lot of I the most daring through their entire lives. St. John the capital, is placed almost in the centre of the great peninsula of I Avalon, on the nearest point to Europe, with a port the most secure perhaps inj the world, fortified by nature and only requiring a very moderate outlay to make j it impregnable. The following account of the physical geography of Newfoundland, byj Julian Mobeton, is reprinted from the 34th volume of the Journal of the] Royal Geographical Society : — " This countiy presents a nearly plane surface of heaths, fens, and ponds, withj some ranges of hills rather than mountains near the coasts, which are much I higher in the south and west than on the eastern side of the island. The highest I headlands to the westward are about 1100 or 1200 feet. On ^he east coast theyl are lower : 300 feet is about their average height. Ponds or lakes and smaUl brooks are numerous among the hills, and the scenery is beautiful, but not grand.! There are but two streams deserving the name of river ; they are the Great audi Little Codroy rivers ; the former is navigable for 16 miles, the latter for onljl miles, from the mouth upward. Large rocks in the channel impede the paasagJ GENERAL REMARKS. of any craft larger than a two-Iianded Bat in almost all the other streams. One large lake named Ocean or Grand Pond, an island in which is repated to have been the last retreat of the now extirpated Red Indians, is situated in the interior coontry, not far from the hea;! of the Bay of Islands. A gentleman who crossed part of the country in 1853, entering at St. George's bay and emerging at Hall's inlet, spoke of large lakes upon which he performed a great part of his journey, he liaving a. boat with him. One of these lakes was nearly 40 miles long. From the course the traveller took, this largest lake must be the Ocean Pond ; and his account agrees with and confirms that which I received from an old furrier, from whom I learned many particulars of the country. In the eastern part there are some very large ponds, which are reported by the fur-hunters to be all connected by brooks. These ponds are Gander Bay pond. Upper and Lower Gambo, Upper and Lower Mackrell ponds, and Olode Sound water. Upon the Gambo and Mackrell ponds I have travelled. The Gambos are two sheets of water, 18 miles in their united length, connected by a brook. The two Mackrell ponds are very similar to the Gambos in form and size, but lie further inland, the Lower Mackrell being parallel with the Upper Gambo. Fur-collectors frequent the shores of these ponds, and are almost the only persons, beside the Micmao Indians, who really know anything of the interior. From these persons I learned that the country within was similar in character to a part which I traversed a few miles inside cape Freels. Towards this cape the hills decline, the country becomes for a space of many miles very low and level, and there is a large break in the line of forest. The whole plain is swamp and heath, with frequent spots of bare granite ro^k protruding, and here and there a small grove, or, as the country people term it, " droke," of very stunted, blight-stricken fir-trees, none of them of larger growth than firewood. In 1851 some Indians crossed the island from Bay Despair to Freshwater bay. They were 9 days in the interior, having stayed by the way to kill and eat venison, and spent time in the desultory way which is usual with their race. It was reckoned that they might have come across in 6 days. From this I judge that the character of the country does not present much difficulty in the journey. An old furrier, who had spent years in fur-collecting about the country between White bay and Bay ofrlslands^told me when I was intending a journey thither, that I might travel from the head of White bay without difficulty the whole distance in 3 days ; and this supports the same conclusion. All that I have learned disposes me to believe that the central parts generally resemble the open lands near cape Freels, There is very much bare protruding rock in all parts of the island, presenting I everywhere a rounded, worn, and water-washed appearance, such as could be pro- duced only by their having once been part of the bed of ocean. Large boulders, of stone of difierent character from all the rock around, are lodged in all parts ; some of the most remarkable are upon the highest lands. A recent, and I sup- pose still proceeding, uprising of the whole island from the sea is very observable, land many proofs of it have been brought to my notice. For instance, a narrow Itickle at the head of Greenspond harbour, in which the water now is scarcely Ideep enough for a punt's passing, was, in the memory of aged people, sufficient |for the passage of large fishiug-boats called Shallops. At Pinchard's or Pilchard's island, and in Twillingate harbour, rocks now above water are remembered aa formerly sunken rooks, over which it was possible and usual to row small boats, [n many places, from the same cause, the fishermen cannot now let their boats ride in the san^e water where their fathers were woi^t to n^oor them. I have > ..' i\. ■,■■•('•''. li-uJL 'm NEWFOUNDLAND. been told of similar changes in Trinity harbour. Tho prevalent kind of rock is a very dense grey granite, but there is upon an island in Conception bay a quarry of very fine freestone. Copper, iron, and lead are known to exist in many places ; generally in quantities too small to pay for working, though in one part to the westward some good success has been obtained in mining for both copper and iron. Manganese ore was found near the same place, but so impure that it would not pay for working. During the last 5 or 6 years diligent search for minerals has been made in the east and north-east, by competent persons^and at much expense. Specimens have been shown of metals found ; but the only real success, the only discovery at least which was followed up by a mining adventure, was a large vein of lead, of very pure quaUty, in Bay Bulls Arm, Trinity bay, which was worked in 1860-1, very profitably I believe, by some American capi- taUsts. In the midst of success the work was suddenly ended by, it was said, n failure of the metal : the vein was reported to be lost, and no great search seems to have been made for a further discovery. In Indian bay there is a warm spring ; and in Freshwater bay I have seen in a pond two springs which always defy the frost, and keep, over each of them throughout the winter, a circular open space, while all the other surface of the pond is coated with very thick ice. The soil is generally poor and nearly unproductive. In many of the inhabited places, especially on the north-east coast, the only soil is peat, often not more than one foot deep upon the surface of the rock. A few miles within the shore, however, there isia poor, yellow gravel beneath the turf; and in some few places a substratum of clay. With this clay brick-making has been at- tempted, but not very successfully. Whether the want of success was due to the nnsuitableness of the clay, or to want of skill, I cannot say. On the western shore near the Codroy rivers, I have seen good red marl of many feet depth, and some gjrpsum. Great heat and extreme cold are both frequent in Newfoundland. I have noted the thermometer at 136° in the sun, when probably the height in the shade would be 97° ; and this, though greater than the usual extreme, was not very infrequent. At the place of my abode, near the centre of the east coast, the winter is seldom known in which the mercury does not sometimes descend to 8° below zero, and I have known it to reach 22°. It is commonly said in Newfound- land, and the remark is near the truth, that the summer is but a three months' season, and all the remaining nine months are winter. Sudden, great, and trying changes of temperature are experienced at all seasons. In summer the western winds, blowing overland, bring extreme heat ; but usually, on fine days, unless the land-breeze is strong, tlie wind veers southward, and before evening brings in fog from the sea, — often making fire and additional clothing grateful in the even- ing of the same day in which tlie dry heat has been scarcely sufierable. In winter tlie land-breezes blowing over a great extent of snow-clad country are most severely cold, while those from the sea are mild and damp. With a shift of wind it is not an infrequent thing for the mercury in one night to rise from some degrees below zero to 30° or more above. The cold always becomes many degrees more intense for a few hours before the coming in of a mild wind from the sea; the frosty air being repelled, and returned in a dense state upon the land, by the force of the incoming breeze. The same winds, namely, those from any quarter between south-west and north, bring in summer the greatest heat and in winter the most intense cold. For these 'ndnds pass over a great extent of land, which is either greatly heated or snow-clad according to the season. A similar remark GENERAL REMARKS. is correct of the winds from north to south-west inolnsiye ; they are in winter tM mildest, and in smnmer the coldest, because of the fog which they always bripg to the shore. An exception may be made to this latter remark, because in March, April, and May, when the Arctic ice is driving southward by the coast, the sea- breezes pass to the land over so vast an extent of frozen water, and cause a biting coldness in the air. But oven at these seasons the fog commonly prevaHs and the atmosphere is damp. Connected with these observations is the fact, that some winters which are very severe in the south of Newfoundland are mild seasons in the north. In those winters the prevailing winds are from the north and north- east, which come from sea to the north and eastward shores, and pass overland to the south parte of the island. By similar reasoning the fact is accounted for that tlic winters wliich are mild in the south are severe in the north, the prevail- ing winds coming then from opposite quarters. Tue great fog-banks, which seem perpetual at sea, are much more frequent in their visits to the shore of the south than of other parts : a fact which I venture to take in confirmation of the theory tliat these fogs are generated in the sea south of Newfoundland by the meeting of the Arctic currents and the Gulf Stream. In a small book lately published I have noted, as one principal reason of the severity of the climate, the fact that two streams of Arctic water, the Davis Strait and East Greenland currents, combine and run by the shores of Newfoundland, and repel the Gulf Stream. Proximity to the vast Canadian continent, where so much land is forest and uninhabited, is a cause capable of some amelioration by the increase of populaion there ; but the former is one which must remain unaltered, and, so far as it is concerned, Newfoundland must ever remain a cold country. It is a common assertion of people in the country that the climate is becoming less severe. This assertion seems unfounded. The winters of 1848-9, 1863-i, 1858-9, 1861-2, and 1802-8 were confessedly severe in the extreme, and the last two almost unprecedented. More provision is now made against the cold, the houses are better, and the clothing more suitable than in former times ; yet the rigour of the climate seems to have been borne at least as well as it now is, and, indeed, fewer diseases were known then. There are some beautiful phenomena peculiar to such a climate, which I hope it is not out of place to mention here. The great frosts of winter cause so clear an atmosphere that the skies both by day and night, appear in marvellous beau^'. The Aurora is remarkable for its beauty and frequent appearance. It seem* c\ to me far finer on the north-west side of Newfoundland than anywhere else. Its colour is usually yellow, some- j times variegated, not often a general red. A man whom I knew attributed the loss of sight in one of his eyes to the Aurora, the rays of wliich he said were plajdng quite low upon the water, while he was attending to the sails of his boat. A fcelmg of -something like a spider's web across his eye, which he tried to wipe away, was, he believes, the effect of a ray of the Aurora through which he passed, land from it blindness resulted. Whether this is credible or not I am unable to Ijudge. Mirage is a very usual appearance on the coast : so are very beautiful halos Iboth of the sun and moon. Scarcely any object in nature can be more strikingly beautiful than what is [called " silver thaw," or " glitter;" and this is seen many time^in every winter. When rain or thick fog quickly follows a change to mild wuul, the water falling kipon surfaces which are yet frozen is at once congealed, and thus every object ''■Vi--':-. ''■<'.■ )• ii ■•■Mm '■ ■''!*, ■cm ai"^: NEWFOUNDLAND. reposed to it becomes thickly coated as n-ith glass. It can be imagined how magnificently brilliant the whole scene becomes when the weather cleara and the sun shines ; every minute branch upon a tree, almost every blade of grass, if there be any bare of snow, appears a distinct crystal. Once seen it cannot be forgotten. Thunder-storms are frequent and violent. To my remembrance they seem often heavier than any I have known during 18 months experience in the tropics. I have seen in Newfoundland the trees consumed by lightning on a mountain's sides, a house rent open, large timber cloven, clothes burnt, and iron fused, in a fitorm of peculiar violence in August, ltt62. Such storms as this, however, are rare. Some of the heaviest I have known were in the winter season. The atmosphere around the whole country seems to be at all times very greatly charged with electricity ; but perhaps it is most so in winter. AU fur, and the human hair, will discharge the electric fluid very audibly and visibly at every touch; and all woollen clothing, especially that worn next the skin, makes a remarkable discharge whenever it is taken off the wearer. As a consequence of the climate, rather than of any peculiar habits of life, the people, though very few of them are more remote from English parentage than the third generation, are in some particulars a distinct race. They are generally of short stature, attain maturity very early, and are remarkably prolific. They have wonderful power of enduring hardships ; but disease, attributable more or less directly to their hard living, is lately becoming very prevalent among them. Consumption of the lungs almost unknown when I first went there, has increased alarmingly in the past 12 years. Of 37 deaths in my congregation in one year, Id were from this disease. Caries of the bone is another disease, cases of which ftre suprisingly numerous. Many of the people suffer from scurvy, especially those persons who for the winter season live and work in the forest above the coast. This, however, is not a new c ' increasing malady. Diseases of the heart are very common. A broad belt of forest surrounds the island. The woods are of much finer growth, more various in kind, and much less despoiled by the axe and by firjs on the western side and around White bay, than those to the eastward. Fir, spruce, pine, and birch are in the greatest abundance ; but there are also larch, aspen, balsam-poplar, mountain-ash and alder. Some kinds of timber are becoming extinct in places where a few years ago they grew in plenty, in consequence of unsparing cutting for building purposes and for sale. Hue is thus becoming scarce ; so is larch , and it is diflicult to get birch of any size larger than for fire- wood. Many thousands of fir-trees are destroyed annually by rinding. The rind is required to cover fish in the course of curing. I have seen far above the heads of the bays a solitary spot of fine yellow deal, which seems to be the only remnant to the eastward at least, of a once common timber tree, and esoapeb the axe only because it is far from water, and therefore could not be got out without too great labour. All trees in Newfoundland are of rather stunted growth ; but the timber is preferred to the larger and freer grown timber of the American continent, as being harder and more enduring. Attempts have been made to introduce the oak and Jie ivy, but under the utmost care the plants exist in dwarf size, only to show j the impossibility of naturalizing them. Several kinds of fruit grow wild, principally upon scrubby bushes, and trailing plants on the heaths and swamps, A very good fruit is one named the bake-apple : this is yellow, round, about the I mo of a cherry, granulated like mulberry. One fruit only is produced by each plant: b yellow ii vulgarly England. use them are killed The se and appl are almoi where no great par grown wl St. John's live throu sea-shore, in lands Turnips a but these wholly to manure an hardy kin peas may 1 has been black sort, first and la Fur-beai fishermen, white, yel precious. unmolested numerous, i on the nort having com seas. Wol came nearl are becomii has lately in 1849, the had chased house for so white. The Deer are ali solitary or i general hal summer, an I southward t them near tl them on tli winters in vi but they tra GENERAL REMARKS. 9 plant : but they are in such number as to make the whole BUtCaoe of the laarBhoi yellow in their season. One other berry, equally plentiful upon the heaths, is vulgarly named blackberry, but has no relation to the black or bramble berry of England. These fruits are of great value, not only in the diets of the people, who use them largely, but also for the support of birds and other wild animals, which are killed for food and for their fur. The severity of the climate, sterility of the soil, and difficulty of procuring and applying manure, are all serious hindrances to agriculture. Fish and kelp are almost the only manures obtainable, and these are very difficult of carriage where no roads exist and there are no horses and carts, which is the case in a great part of the country. Some Scotch settlers on the Codroy rivers have grown wheat with some success. Wheat is grown also on the inside lands near St. John's. Only the 13 weeks' grain can be sown, because no fall-sown seed can live through the frosts of winter. Cultivated as it is only upon land far above the sea-shore, the crop has often to be cut gi'een. Barley is grown with more success in lands far up the bays ; but that also, in some years cannot be ripened. Turnips are a good and sure crop, and great quantities of potatoes are grown ; but these are almost all of a poor quality. For this, however, the land is not wholly to blame, for I have proved by repeated experiment, that with proper manure and care it will produce potatoes thoroughly good. Carrots, parsnips, a hardy kind of onion, and cabbage are successfully cultivated, and in the south peas may be grown. These are nearly all the es3ulent vegetables which the land has been proved capable of producing. Grab-apples, currants, especially the black sort, gooseberries, and damsons, are the only table-fruits ; and of these the first and last can be grown only in the south of Newfoundland. Fur-bearing animals are numerous, and a great source of gain to some of the fishermen, who in winter turn funiers. Arctic foxes are here in all their variety ; white, yellow, patch, silverhaired, and black-poles; the last-named the most precious. Beavers, once nearly extirpated, are now becoming numerous, being unmolested becaus'j of the low value of their fur. Brown bears are pretty numerous, and valued both for meat and fur. White bears are sometimes found on the northern promontory of the island, (where I imagine they are but visitors, having come to the shore upon the ice which drifts down in spring from the Arctic seas. Wolves were killed for a reward given by the Colonial Government, and be- came nearly extinct. lu 1849 tiie reward ceased to be paid, and these animals are becoming again numerous and very troublesome. I Imow one poor man who has lately lost many sheep by them. A man in the Bay of Islands showed me, in 1849, the skins of three large wolves which he caught, out of a gang of six that had chased a deer from the interior country into his garden, and lurked about his huuse for some days afterwards. One of the six was black, the others were greyish white. Those caught measured six feet from the nose to the end of the tail. Deer are always in very great number in the interior, and sometimes they stray, solitary or in twos and threes, to the outside at any season of the year ; but their general habit is to herd together in the northern parts of the interior during summer, and as soon as the snow has set in and buried the moors, flock down I southward throngh the woods, where only they can then find food. This brings them near the outside of the country and within reach of the people who waylay them on the shores of the lakes, and then shoot tliem in the water. In those winters in which the snow does not fall early, no deer come through the forests ; but they travel southward on the inside. I regard this fact as a corroboration of '■' ■■■ ■":- r* ' ' ._ t ; '..■'■'' ', '_, s ■ ,'*'■ '.K f,'.' - • 1 ■ . -fj ' *\'. ■■'f '';?■ '•'.. ' '■ .■■'V > , - •i .■» J ' * li ' .1, ■i'-'\ X ';■ s »,-K. ■ .'^ )■" ' '. ■ ' "i e BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. the general report that the interior conntry is a great open plain. In such wintera the moors being free from snow, the deer have no occasion to enter the forest, and do not come to the outside. The skin of these animals is invariably spoiled in the slaughtering and wasted. Martens, hares, and ermine are very numerous, and otters aud musk-rats are found in almost bvery pond and brook." The population of tho islanii is about 180,000. BANKS OP NEWFOUNDLAND. Eastward, south-eastward and southward of Newfoundland are several ex- tensive sand banks, abounding with fish of various kinds. In sounding, the bottom is commonly covered with shells. The banks are frequented by shoals of smaU fish, jvhich serve as food for the codfish ; these tlirive so amazingly, and are so inconceivably numerous, that although many hundreds of vessels have fished there fur more than two centuries, there appears to be no diminution in the supply. The fishery is not confined to the banks, but extends to the shores and harbours of Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton Island. The fish are conpnonly most abundant where the bottom is sandy and the depth about 30 fathoms ; where the bottom is of mud they are observed to be less numerous. In winter they seek deeper water, but in February, March, and April, they return to the banks, and fatten rapidly. The Banks of Newfoundland, celebrated as the great fishery grounds'pf North America, occupy a considerable area, — its boimdaries being, taking the line of 100 fathoms ; — ^northernmost edge lat. 48° 20' N., long. 51° 20' W. ; easternmost edge lat. 46° 26' N., long. 47° 30' W.; southernmost edge lat. 43° N., long. 60° 10' W., whence it runs almost in a direct line to cape Bay, the S.W. extremity of New- foundland : within this area besides the part specially known as the Great Bank, are Green Bank and St. Pierre Bank — subordinate banks so closely connected with the first as scarcely to be distinguished from it except by careful soundings. OBBAT BANK. — The Great Bank, properly so called, extends between the parallels of 43° and 47° 40' N., (north of St. John's) and between the meridian of 48° 20' W. and that of cape Race. On the parallel of cape Spear (47i° N.) it is about 60 miles across with depths varying from 66 to 66 fathoms, sand. On the parallel of cape Race, or in 46° 40' N., and long. 47° 30' W., soundings in 76 fa- thoms, whitish sand, will be obtained ; this will be about 140 miles eastward of the Virgin rocks, and its farthest easterly extension, but on crossing it here, bear in mind the reported rocky shoal of only 21 feet water, about 100 or 200 feet in extent, reported to have been seen by Mr. Jesse Ryder, of the fishing schooner Bethel. Approacliing the St, Lawrence from the eastward, when in lat. 46° 30', sound- ings will be obtained on the edge of the bank in long. 48° 48' W. ; here it is very steep ; in lat. 44° N., long. 49° W, the edge of the bank has 105 fathoms upon it, bottom of very fine grey sparkling sand ; but immediately westward of this posi- tion the soundings rapidly decrease : thence the edge of the bank takes a S. W.-ly direction to lat. 43° N., long. 49° 50' W., where is a depth of 60 fathoms, with shoal water of 40 fathoms immediately to the eastward, and bottom of fine sand, shells, iMid mud, while to westward is very deep water. The depths of the Great VIRGIN ROOKS, QREEN BANK, &o. 9 Bank vary from 20 to 80 Cathoms, and the bottom also variea oonslderably, but it generally consists of sand, or sand mixed with shells and gravel, rarely with stones. The eastern face of the bank is of clear whitish sand, and often spark- ling. But the best idea of the shape and soundings of tlie bank will be gained by referring to the chart. Virgin Boeka. — If the Great Bank be made between the 46th and 47th par- allels, be careful to avoid drifting on the Virgin rocks : the bank on which they are situated extends 4i miles in an E. by S. and W. by N. direction, and is 9 miles wide where broadest, the depths being regular firom 28 to SO fathoms, and then 4i fathoms where shoalest. Beyond these limits, the depth increases suddenly to 39 and 4!) fathoms. The 4i fathom rock is in lat. 46" 26i' N., long. 60° 51i' W. Mr. Rose, H.M.S. Tyne (1829), describes these rocks as extending in an irregular chain, or cluster 800 yards in the direction of N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., (true), their breadth varying from 200 to 300 yards. They were distinctly seen under water, particularly a large mass of white rock, in 4^ fa- thoms,* having 6 and 6i fathoms round it. Tlie shoal was traced in 7 fathoms, ou detached rocks, near the edge of it, having deeper water between them. On the southern edge of the shoal, from S.E. to West, the depth increases gradually to 30 fathoms, at the distance of half a mile from the shoalest part. The same depth was found N.W. and N.E. of the shoal, at the distance of one-third of a mUe, and also between N.E. and S.E., at the distance of one mile. The current was found setting W.S.W., at the rate of one mile per hour over the shoal, with . a confused cross swell. Boportfld Bhoala. — A shoal of 21 feet water was reported, in 1845, by Mr. Jesse llyder, of the fishing schooner Bethel, in lat. 46° 30' N., which appeared to be a rock of 100 or 200 feet surface. He discovered it accidentally while searching for the d-fathom bank, to iish upon, and supposed it to be about 50 miles to the eastward of the Virgin rocks, and to bear S. by W. about 1 J miles from the 9-fathom bank. Mr. llyder was certain tliat it formed no part of the Virgin rocks, having after- wards seen them. Commander Chimmo R.N. in 1868 could not find this reported danger. Other shoals have been reported as follows : — A bank or shoal 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of the Virgin rocks : the water brealdng, and the spot well-known to tlio fishermen as dangerous. On the French charts of the banks, a shoal of 9 fatlioms, stated to lie in lat. 44" 42' N., and long. 49° 62' W. Also, a shoal of about 4 fathoms, and about 150 to 200 feet in circumference, trending N.E. and S.W. Lat. 46° 38' N.. long. 49° 52' W. These are otherwise unknown. TBOU DS ZiA BAliBXivs or "WBAICB SBBP. — On the western side of the Great Bank is a remarkable deep gully with soundings of 68 to 66 and 70 fathoms, on a bottom of mud or ooze which has a fetid smell : here fish of all sorts abound, and the spot serves well to indicate a sliip's position : centre in lat. 45° 20' N., long. 52° 40' W. OBBBN SAUK. — Green Bank is just to the westward of the Great Bank and on the meridian of the centre of Placentia bay ; it is 60 miles long (north and south), and 30 miles wide ; the least depth on it is 38 fathoms, bottom of sand, gravel, small pebbles and broken shells. At the south extremity it joins the Great Ml h'> ■ »' >■ .; ,• ( *■•■■'' .'4'.- ■'". ■:!n^: 'A^'i'f: * It is very generally asBerted at St. John's, that there is one spot on these rocks which has only IS to 14 feet water over it. 10 BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. Bank, and is separated from it at the north end hy a guUey 25 miles wide and 60 to 80 fathoms deep. ST. TKEMMM BAIIX. — St Pierre bank is separated from Oreen Bank by a gulley running north and south, '20 to 26 miles wide, and 70 to 00 fathoms deep. The bank extends 112 miles N.W. and S.E., liaving a width of 35 to 60 miles. The least depths are from 10 to 23 fathoms, and it is generally shnaler than the Great Bank and Oreen Bank ; the bottom is similar to that of the latter bank : its centre is in lat. 4((° N. on the meridian of 8t. Pierre island (56' 10' W.). TSMWatUK OJir. — The Flemish cap, called also the Outer or False Bank, |is a shoal patch eastward of the Great Bank, in lat. 47° N., long. 44° 40' W.,— least depth 72 to 80 fathoms. It has been partially surveyed by M. Lavaud. of the French Navy, from whose observations it appears to be very steep on the western edge, there being no bottom immediately after sounding in 130 or 160 fathoms on its edge. From long. 44° 62' W., and lat. 40° 63' N., in a depth of 73>thoms, large stones, a line of soundings, gradually increasing in depth, Was carried north- ward, to lat. 47" 50' N., and long. 45° 12' W., where the depth was found to be 147 fathoms, bottom of soft mud. Between it nnd tlie western edge of the Great Bank is much deeper water, on a bottom of fine sand and ooze, and thence westward towards the Great Bank tine whitish sand, speckled black. There are several banks off the S.E. sides of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island which, though not forming part of the Banks of Newfoundland, are to a certain extent connected wifih them and have their origin from the same source ; these are the Misaine, Artiraon, Banquereau, Sable Island, Middle Ground, and Canso banks. MIBAIHB BAIR. — The Misaine bank, 56 miles from St. Pierre bank, having depths between them of upwards of 200 fathoms, is 108 miles S.W.-ward of St. Pierre island and 70 miles S.E.-ward of Scatari island : it is 58 miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and about 28 miles wide, irregular in contour, with least depth 44 fathoms and numerous gulleys exceeding 70 to 80 fathoms. ABTZKOV BAirx> — The Artimon bank is eastward of the Misaine bank and N.E.-ward of the Banquereau ; it does not exceed 13 miles, with least depth 38 £athoms, coarse sand and pebbles. BAHQVBItSATr. — The Banquereau is comprised between the meridians of 61" 16' and 60° 5' W., and between the parallels of 44° and 45° N. It is 116 miles long E.S.E. and W.N.W., with a least depth of 15 to 20 fathoms, bottom of different coloured sands, gravel, &c. This bank abounds in fish and is much frequented by French and American vessels, particularly the eastern part. The tidal currents on it are strong and irregular. BABLB BAirx. — The Sable bank on which is situated Sable island, is east- ward of the Banquereau ; its northern part is called the middle Ohronnd: all this part is dangerous owing to the shallowness of the water in the vicinity of the low island. CAKBO BAHS.— This bank is nearer the shore of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton island than those already named: it is W.N.W. of the Misaine and N.N.E. of the Middle Ground, with least water 33 fathoms. For further particulars respecting the latter banks see " Directions for the tfoast of North America— Canso to New York," pp. 60—65. 11 ROUTE TO NEWFOUNDLAND, CURRENTS, FOGS, &c. Vessels bound to St. John's harbour, should keep on the parallel of 46'*, or 1^" to the southward of the parallel of that port, and until near the outer edge of the Great Bauk and soundings are obtained in long. 48° 30' or 49° W., should steer directly to the north-westward for cape Spear; but if bound for the Gulf of St. Lawrence, they should endeavour to cross the bank in 46' 30', and when in about long. 65° or 66° shape a course north-westerly for St. Paul's island or cape North, Breton island. In thick weather the lead should be kept going when leaving the western edge of the Green Bank, to ascertain the position by the deep gully of 80 to tfO fathoms, mud, which runs N.N.E. and S.S.W.i about 60 miles, between St. Pierre and the Green Bank. The middle of the gulley is in lat. 46° 36' N. ; by sounding in this gulley, and feeling the edges of the banks on each side of it, a fresh departure may be obtained. If making St. Pierre, adopt the following course, which is followed by the French fishing vessels. From long. 62° W., in lat. 45° N., steer a N.W. course, across Green Bank in about 48 fathoms water, and when on the meridian of 55° 10' W., in about 45° 50' N., the water will suddenly deepen to 00 fathoms. A farther run on the same course for about 10 miles, leads across this gully. when the water will shoal to 35 and 30 fathoms ; and after a farther run of 23 miies steer about N.N.E. directly for the island. In spring or summer, vessels from Great Britain should keep well to the north- ward ; for it has been long observed that vessels from the Pentland Firth and the Clyde, liave always made quicker passages than those from Bristol or the English channel. During the winter season the American packets always keep well tu the northward. The preferable course for vessels bound for the Bay of Fundy, in the summer, is to keep as far to the northward as lat. 47°, until reaching long. 40" W., then to edge away so as to cross the tail of the bank in about lat. 43° 30' N. This route at this season of the year will be more clear of the numerous fishing vessels that resort to the banks, and perhaps less ice will be encountered, but a stiict look-out for it is always necessary. After getting west- ward of the banks, endeavour to keep in lat. 43°, to avoid the northern edge of the Gulf Stream ; but in the winter the bank should be crossed well to the north- ward to guard against the north-westers, which blow very heavily. Two vessels bound to the lower ports in the St. Lawrence have been known to pass through the Pentland Firth together, in the month of April ; the one had a passage of 21 days, and the other, the faster sailer, of 7 weeks. In comparing logs afterwards, it appeared that they were both in about long. 80° W. on the same day, but the one was about 100 miles to the southward, with a gale at West, while the other to the northward was running 9 knots, with a fresh gale at N.E. All the ships which kept to the northward had fine passages. To these remarks on the passage from England to Newfoundland, the follow- ing, by a correspondent of the Nautieal Magazine, 1833, p. 829, may prove not unacceptable :-~ .•''{' * i \ '• .' ^'' ?; , '',' t ' ' ■» I. i r '-J- •',', ' : ^1 ■(' r ,■■' .' ■■- ','^, *. I'N' U h ' ::-V'' •■■;i '■'A '.'' .r- ::m la ROUTE TO NEWFOUNDLAND " Althongh the voyage to and from North America, betweon the parallels of 60" and 40°, has always boon attended with a degree of peril, from masses of ice which drift southward, during the summer months, from the polar re{^ons, yet many an unwary mariner makes his run across tlio Atlantic without apprehension of mooting these floating dangers, or without suiricicutly exercising proper discre- tion and vigilance to guard against collision with thorn. This is not mere conjecture, but the information of persona who annually perform the voyage, beside the result of my own observation, in accidents which have repeatedly ooourred to vessels between Newfoundland and England, and in the number of missing ships on this route. Shipmasters should therefore bear in mind the imperative necessity there is for using their utmost vigilance and attention when crossing the above-named parallels, especially between the meridians of 80° and 00" West, to guard against contact with these formidable dangers of the ocean. The New York packet ships, well supplied with every essential equipment, and elegantly fitted for the accommodation of passengers, when making thoir winter voyage from Liverpool, keep in liigh lutitiiJes until near Newfoundland. This they do for tho twofold object of avoiding the tempestuous weather so generally experienced to the southward, and of obtaining fairer winds ; and thus, by slipping ^dthin the mighty stream from the Florida Cliannel, they evade its rettirding influence. The voyage by tills route is shortened ; and, although bad weather must be expected, it is not so violent as farther south ; besides which, the eastern current is avoided. I beUeve it is an unusual thing to meet with ice in this part of the Atlantic in tho winter; but still it may be met with and on that account a look-out should be kept in that season, as well as in the summer, by vessels making the voyage. ■From all accounts it seems that the greatest danger is to be apprehended in the vicinity of the Banks of Newfoundland ; and this, as every navigator knows is increased by a dense fog which generally pervades the atmosphere in that quarter, and, of course, shortens the distance of vision to a very circumscribed limit." Pasaas* tbxonsh tb« Strait of Belle Isle. — Some discussion having pre- viously arisen relative to the eligibility of the Strait of Belle Isle as a route to and from Quebec, a letter, containing the following remarks, by Captain Ballantine, appeared in the Nautical Magazine for 18fil. p. 475 : — " While 1 admit that the Belle Isle route ought to be avoided when there is a risk of lield-ice being encountered in it, I feel confident that, at all other times, it is by far the safer route of the two. Dangers arising from ice, from irregular currents, and from collision with other vessels are greatly multiplied by dense fogs ; and in these respects tho northern route has a great advantage over the southern one, for the fogs are seldom of long continuance in the north, while off capo Kace they form the general rule in the summer months. I have no positive data as to the proportion of fogs to clear weather on the Great Bank and in the vicinity of cape Race ; but my impression is, that fogs prevail there half of the time during the summer months. They certainly are very frequent, often of long continuance, and extending at times from 800 to 1000 miles, with scarcely a break in them. Danger from icebergs can be, in a great measure, avoided by going slow or stopping altogether if the fog is very dense. But in the ice track, and that of many vessels at the same time, even extreme caution does not insure safety ; for, STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. II by going dead slow or stopping altogether, to avoid Soylla yon may fiJl into Cliorybdis, or rathor Charybdia may fall into you, in the shape of a ship running into a steamer amidships, her weakest and most dangerous part. But icebergs won't nin into a steamer if a steamer does not run into them. Danger from ice- bergs is ranch less than danger from other vessels in their vicinity. Tltere is, perhaps, not above a score of vessels pass to and from Europe by the I Belle Isle route in the whole season. There are no fishermen outside the strait, and few inside, in the steamer's track. But by the southern route over the Great Bank, they are very numerous, many of them of considerable size, with large crews on board for fishing purposes. Then a great proportion of the United States traffic, by steamers and sailing vessels, pass over that track, as well as the Now Brunswick and Nova Scotia trade from Europe, and all the Gulf of St. I Lawrence trade from Europe, less the few by Belle Isle. The Quebec fleets alone average over 1000 vessels a season, and aU these shipa I and steamers pass over this south track, which by usage is not very broad, and a portion of it is obstructed by field-ioe in the early summer, and by icebergs {t\ 'oughout all the summer months. )auger arising from irregular currents is alike common to both routes. Fre- Idem from danger arising from sailing in the vicinity of land is also in favour of tlie Belle Isle route, for the distance by that route is 220 miles less than by cape ■ Race, 125 of which is the coasting part of the passage. If some parts '^^ the I coast of Labrador are more dangerous than the south coast of Newfoundland, both are dangerous in thick weather, if too closely shaved. In clear weather I there is danger in neither, and clear weather is much more prevalent on the I Labrador coast than on the south coast of Newfoundland. The strait of Belle Isle is only 80 miles long, it is some 10 miles broad at its I narrowest part ; the passage is free from rooks, except one or two close to the I shore. There are soundings throughout, and in many parts a vessel can anchor if necessary. There are also several harbours in the strait; Forteau bay, a I spacious one. The^e are first-rate lights at each end. The Canadian Govern* ment are about to erect another on cape Whittle, the worst part of the Labrador I coast. If the strait be attempted too early there is a risk of more field-ice being met I with outside Belle Isle on the north route than on the south one, and this is the only real advantage that the south route has over the north one, in my opinion. For although the icebergs are more numerous north than south, there is little risk incurred when a steamer can go slowly in a fog without any danger from ■ other vessels. In 1867, the strait was clear of field ice on April 9th ; in 1868, on I Jime 10th ; in 1859, on May 12th ; for 1860 I have no data at hand ; this year it I was after June 4th, and it was in considerable quantities 150 miles east of Belle lisle on July 6th ; I am not aware if any has been seen since. But thisia an I exceptional bad year for ice both north and south, the worst since 1856. Lieut. Ashe seeing icebergs near Belle Isle on Aug. 7th, is not a snffident [reason for the passage of the strait being avoided until September, for icebergs I do not block the way as field-ice frequently does, and by waiting until June is over, I the risk of encountering field-ice is very small indeed. We might as well avoid ■going south of cape Race, for there will be icebergs on that route in a season like jthis until the end of September. Even as a general rule, icebergs are encountered |on both routes throughout the summer and autumn months." Admiral Bayfield, however, in the same magazine, p. 511, writes as follows:— ■ ■ f w\ V . '...;■- *' ',t-. -'tl . , ■ ■ /■• ( ' •. ' ■ 'I ■m y"fj ,AjL:M 14 ROUTE TO NEWFOUNDLAND. ** I was oonsolted years ago respecting the passage through the strait of BeOe I Isle, and gave my decided opinion that the advantage of a few miles less distance from Liverpool to Quebec was not a sufficient compensation for the danger of | passing through a strait 66 miles long, and in its narrowest part only 9 miles wide, and which may be full of icebergs at any season of the year. In August, 1833, I couijited no less than 200 bergs and large pieces of ice in the strait. In the following year 6 or 7 large bergs were all that could be seen in the same month. I once found the western entrance of the strait to freeze across i^ a calm night on June 20th. which will give you some idea of the climate. Of course, it was only a very thin covering of ice, which disappeared soon after sunrise. The main entrance of the Gulf, between Cape Breton and Newfoundland, is free from ice, excepting in the spring of the year. As to the proper time of passing the strait, I think the fall of the year — after the middle of August — the least dangerous, because then northerly winds, atten- ded with clear weather and smooth water, are more frequent ; whereas in June, July, and the early part of August, southerly and easterly winds and fog prevail, and render the ice far more dangerous." Vteintty of Cap* Bae*. — In reference to the approach to cape Race, and the currents and soundings off that headland, the following information was com- municated to the Admiralty by Captain J. Orlebar, R.N. Currents — Although the current between the Grand Bank and Newfoundland commonly sets to the W.I^.W., sometimes at a rate of nearly one mile per hour, it is not always so, and near the shore, in moderate weather, it even changes with the tide. At these times during the flood it runs to the S.W., and during the ebb to the N.E., the former being the stronger. Westward of cape Race, it must also be remembered that the current, so frequently setting to the N.W. one mile per hour in the ofBng, is not invariable in strength or direction, but is affected greatly by the prevailing wind. It is observed generally to mn in upon the eastern side of the great buys indenting the south coast of Newfoundland, and out on their western side. In the offing it is influenced by the winds, and near the shore it is also altered and influenced by the tides ; so that during spring tides, the stream of ebb runs weekly to the S.E., and the stream of flood to the N.W., the latter sometimes two miles per hour round the headlands. Vessels coming from the eastward in thick weather, if sounding carefully, will probably cross the Ballard bank, which lies parallel to the shore, and is about 16 miles long, varying from one to five miles in width. A careful comparison of the soundings thus obtained with those on the new Admiralty chart will show tlie position of the vessel with sufficient accuracy to enaUe the navigator to round cape Race without danger. For instance, if after sounding in about 80 fathoms, on« cast of comparatively shoal water (that is from 30 to 12 fathoms) should be obtained, and afterwards should the depth increase to 40 fathoms, it may be concluded that the vessel has passed over the narrow part of the Ballard bank, and is to the northward of cape Race, and the course should be changed accordingly. But, if shoal water under 80 fathoms continue for 5 miles, and after deepening sUghtly should again become shoal, the vessel may be safely concluded to be on the southern part of the bank, and therefore sou^ of cape Race, and her coarse to the westwsdHl may be continued with confidence. A Tessel from westward in thick weather may round cape Pine and cape Race with perfect safety, if only attention be given to the lead. The water aboals FOGS, CURRENTS, 4o. 1ft gradually to the shore, and at the distance of 10 miles there is not more than 40 fathoms, so that by maintaining a depth of more than 90 fathoms no risk can I be incurred. ! It is to be regretted that there is no well marked difference in the nature of [the soundings off these headlands that would show the position of a vessel, the I bottom being generally rock, with shells of the sea-egg, gray sand, and small stones predominating. roKs.— The banks are frequently enveloped in dense fogs, which, from the I middle of spring to December, have been known to last 8 and 10 days successively ; at such times they are often so thick that it is scaruely possible to see an object 10 fathoms distant ; a continual drizzling rain is dropping from the sails and rigging, a general calm prevails, and sometimes attended with a considerable swell of the sea, so that there is constant fear of running foul of some vessels, or of being drifted by the currents upon some danger. The currents which surround Newfoundland are frequently so strong and irregular, sometimes tending towards the shore and sometimes towards the sea, that the greatest caution will always be found necessary ; while the current coming from the northern regions sweeps along the shores of Labrador, and, in the spring, detaches immense icebei|[8, which float southward, and become exceedingly dangerous, especially in foggy [weather; some of these masses will frequently be grounded in 40 or 60 fathoms water, and others will be met with farther out to seaward, at the distance of 125 or 130 leagues from the land. Fortunately these formidable objects may generally be discovered, even in dark weather, by a white and bright appearance of the sky above them, and also by the roar of the waters breaking against thenk ; they also may be apprehended by the intense coldness they diffuse to a great distance around them ; they continue and are usually met with as late as June, July, and August. Any wind may bring a fog but it is more persistent and thicker with I winds between S.E. and S.W. than from any other quarter. The approach towards the Banks may be known by the numerous sea fowls. I The greet fishery commences in May and continues till the latter end of Sep- I tember^ Cun?«nta, *e. — The Polar or Arctic current which in summer brings the ice { from Davis strait pursues its course from north to south along the Labrador eoest I find thence along the N.E. coast of Newfoundland. To the northward of the '?reat Bonk it assumes a W.S.W. dLection, and after doubling cape Race take* a jiore westerly one, often attaining a velocity of a knot an hour. In its progress I it deflects the Gulf Stream more to the eastward. The following observauons from the French chart of the Banks are by M. I Lavaud of the French Navy ; — " The direction of the currents at the north and south, and on the eastern I approach to the Great Bank, varies little from E.S.E. to S.S.E. (true), and is generally between these points ; its velocity is seldom less than 8 to 10 miles in the 24 hours, and sometimes increases to 24 or 30 miles. Mariners should observer that outside all the Banks, and especially off the south part of the Great Book, the currents boil and foai such strong eddies, that a vessel becalmed, or with light winds, cannot estimato her position with exactness; this ia probably I occasioned by the edge of the v>nlf Stream. The currents on the Great l^ank h'*ve a variable direction, of which the mad I is not the only cause, as it is, at ti les, in a different direction. The fishennea state, that the current every <^.ay irakes the round of the compass ; and it is found by dose observation, that bryond the meridian of cape Raee it is mostly to th» westward." ■■m j^^;:«r' ■ft •■' 't(- 16 CURUENTS, WINDS, Ac. Mr. B. Bursell of Si John's, Newfonndland, in a letter to the Wnvontib Magazine, in 1800, makes the following observations on the currents in the strait of Belle Isle, and on the south-west and south coasts of Newfoundland :-— " From cape Bauld to cape Norman, at the entrance to the strait of Belle Isle, there is a current at times setting to the. eastward, notwithstanding that the arrows on the charts indicate a general set to the westward. After passing cape Norman, being a few miles to the north-west of it, the yacht (the Bishop of | Newfoundland's) was carried in the course of 12 hours (August), during a dead ealm, as for as Forteau bay ; we passed the icebergs in the strait as if going 2| knots per hour : it is a wonder more vessels are not lost in these parts, consider- ing the foggy state of the atmosphere, the numerous icebergs aground and afloat, and the uncertain strength and direction of the currents. In beating up the Gulf of St. Lawrence, from Blanc Sablon to the Meccattinas, it is best to work up on the Labrador shore, as the tide sets strongly down the Gulf on the Newfoundland shore : I have proved both. Leaving God Roy and bound round cape Ray to the southward, I found the current very variable. I was becalmed 9 miles off cape Ray the whole of one day, and was carried to the north-west at the same time that a schooner, also becalmed, but more in-shore, was taken to the southward out of sight ; the next day, haul- ing in, I could not make headway to the southward in her track with two knots of a fair wind. The fishermen told me that, within ,3 or 4 miles of the land, the currents hereabout are verytimcertain, setting for lays alongshore in one direction, and then suddenly changing to an opposite course ; at the same time, in the offing; there is a constant set to the S.W. Along the whole line of coast to cape Race I found the current not only strong but irregular. On the north side of Fortune bay the current sets strongly to the westward ; on the south side it sets as strongly to the eastward. From point May past the Lamalin islanJs to St. Lawrence harbour, the current is not only irregular, but there are breakers in many places fully 3 miles off-shore ; in the channel between the Lamalins and St. Pierre island, and thence to Miquelon island, it is impossible to rely on its direction, it varies so greatly; on this account accidents frequently occur." Winds. — On the east and south coast of,the island of Newfoundland the winds most generally found are from South, from May till October. They are, however, very changeable, and generally moderate during this period. Nevertheless, there are occasional squalls from S.E., with rain and fog, which latter is especially prevalent in July and August. The N.W. winds which sometimes blow are dry and cold, ani* generally attended with a clear sky. In October these winds be- come strong. S.W. winds are also found here, but very variable in force at all times of the year. On this part of the American coast S.E. winds are analogous to those from S.W on the coast of Europe. In January — ^W.N.W., weather generally fine ; Febmary-^'West and E.N.E., with much snow ; March — West and East, with snow and rain, April — variable generally fine ; May — variable, generally fine ; June— variable, generally fine ; July — variable, generally fine; August — variable, generally fine; September- variable, with rain and cloudy weather ; October — E.N.E., with snow and rain; November — S.S.E., snow ; and in December — ^W.N.W., weather variable. Ze«.— The following remarks upon ico in the North Atlantic are by Mr. W. C. Bedfield;— ICE. IT e westward ; << Of the various dangera which beset the path of the mariner, perhaps there ars none which excite to more vigilance than the known or expected proximity of ioe. In some frequented portions of the Atlantic Ocean the ice appears almost every year, in the various forms of field-ice, floes, and massive ice-islands, drifted from the arctic regions by the constant action of the polar currents. These ice-bearing currents, in flowing towards the South must necessarily incline towards the western limits of the Ocean, owing to the increased velocity of the diurnal rota- tion of the earth's surface as we depart from the poles ; a law well understood as regards the currents of air which form the trade winds. Hence it is that on and near the banks these ice currents are found to cross the usual track of vessels bound from the ports of Europe to North America. The quantity of ioe which appears on this route of navigation in different years, is exceedingly various. It is sometimes seen as early in the year as January, and seldom later than the month of August. From March to July is its most common season. It is found most frequently west of long. 44° and eastward of long. 52° ; but icebergs are sometimes met with as far eastward as long. 40% and in some rare cases even still further towards Europe. Experience has shown that fhe proximity of ice is fax less hazardous than rocks or shoals : and this floating danger would be still less formidable were it not for the fogs and mists which it often causes. The thermometer has been often held up as affording sure indications of an approach to ice, by the reduction of tem- perature shown both in the air and water, and these indications are important and should by no means be neglected. But there may be many cases of approach to ice where a reliance upon the thermometer alone could not afford security. Although little or no ioe be seen in one passage, or even in many times crossing the Atlantic, yet it has been frequently met in such quantities as seemed to indi- cate a vast or indefinite extension of the ice-fields, towards the polar Beas." .'if> -^ v-,^ it . '. •- I?,.- ■ K ir ■■ ■■'. 18 CAPE BONAVISTA TO BAOCALIEU ISLAND— TKINITY BAY, &c. Tbe boundaries of Trinity bay are usually considered to be Horse Chops point •on the west, in lat. 48° 21' N., long. 53° 12i' W., and Grates point on the east, in lat. 46° 10' N., long. 62° 66 i' W. ; but for the purposes of our description it is more convenient to consider cape Bonavista and Baccalieu island ^3 the proper limits. Between the two first mentioned points of land the distance is 15 miles, and the bay extends 50 miles in a W.S.W. direction, being eyerywhere very deep and its shores having off them few outlying dangers. Viewed from eastward the most remarkable feature north of the entrance to Trinity bay is Burnt ridge (a tcble land 4 miles south of Cape Bonavista) which is 600 feet above the sea, nearly 100 feet higher than the land in its imm&£ate vicinity, and 300 feet above the general elevation both north and south of it. As the land i6 approached Largent hill, north of it, becomes visible, then Qreen bay head, and lastly cape Bonavista lighthouse and Gull island off | it. From the north-east, Green ridge (the north part of Burnt ridge) will probably be the first land seen, but Bonavista lighthouse, if the weather be cloudy ; this building may be seen from a distance of 14 miles. OJUPB BOITA'irZBTA and lAgbt. — Cape Bonavista, the lighthouse on which is in lat. 48° 41' 56" N., long. 63° 5' 10" W., is a bold cliffy point having a depth off it of 4 fathoms at a very moderate distance from its base, which rapidly deepens to 15 and 30 fathoms, the latter being at the distance of about a mile from it in a north-easterly direction. The lighthouse, a square tower 36 feet high painted in red and wliite vertical stiipes, shows a revolvimj light 150 feet above the sea, visible in every direction seaward at the distance of 16 miles * ; if kept well open of Spiller point it leads clear of the Flower rock, the most dangerous of the suiilcen rocks off the const southward of the cape, and all the other dangerous outlying rocks in its vicinity. The bottom in the neighbourhood of cape Bonavista is very uneven, especially within the depth of 30 fatlioms. The outermost bank, known as Harry Ground, is distant 4, miles from the lighthouse in a N.N.E. J E. direction. Barry Oronnd, — Harry ground is more than 'i^ miles in length in a W.S.W. and E.N.E. direction, and IJ miles in breadth. It consists of a bank of 20 j to ilO fathoms, having upon it several rocky patches of 7 feet to 16 fathoms water j which bear the names respectively of Old Harry, Young Harry, Kelp, Middle and Eastern rocks. Within half a mile of the north, east, and west sides of the j bank the depth is 50 to 60 fathoms. Old Harry, the southern rock of Harry giound, has 7 feet water on it ; it lies * Ca))*) Bonavista light appears red and white alternately. 15 seconcls luid eclipsed KO Bcconds. It is visible during CAPE LARGENT. DOLLARMAN BANK, &o. 10 IN.N.E. ^ E. distant 4f'a miles from Bonavista lighthouse, and N.E. by E. from 1 Stone islet. Young Harry, the northern rock, has 4 fathoms on it, and lies In.E. i N. 6t\ miles from the lighthouse, and N.E. by E. from Stone isl6t. XKelp rock with 21 fathoms on it, lies S.W. J W. 3 cables from Young Harry. IMidtlle rock has 8 fathoms on it, and lies S.W. ^ W. 1^ miles from Young [Harry and nearly midway between it and Old Harry. Eastern rock, two-thirds I of a mile south-eastward from Middle rock, has a depth over it of 7 fathoms. Bonavista lighthouse, bearing S.W. by W., leads eastward of these dangers ; [the same building S.S.W. leads westward of them. A vessel to the north-east of lYoung Harry should keep the angle between Largent hill and the west end of ■Green ridge less than 7 degrees. In foggy weather, and the position of the Ivessel well known, close with Gull island, as there are no dangers in the imme:- Idiate vicinity of cape Bonavista to affect a ship in moderate weather, the Old I Harry being 3 miles from tliat island. » Bocks with less than 5 fathoms water on them break with a moderate sea, Ithose from 5 to 10 fathoms break with a heavy sea, and those with 10 to 16 fa- |tboms break after heavy gales from seaward. BacMs Bock, 4iie. — Dacres rock, with 9 fathoms water on it, lies N.N.E. i E. Idistant S^'a miles from cape Bonavista lighthouse. The Skimmerton ground, ■with 12 fathoms. East (southerly) 1-^ miles from the lighthouse ; and the East \Brandy, with 7 fathoms on it, S.E. I E. l^V miles from the lighthouse. Onll Island. — GuU island is a cable in extent and 117 feet high : it is distant |6 cables N. f E. from cape Bonavista lighthouse, and the channel between it and ■the land is clear of danger except near the respective shores. A rook 2 fathoms lunder water lies S.W. a cable from the island ; and another, with less than 6 feet |over it, 2 cables westward from the cape but close to the land. OAPB XiABOBnT, — From cape Bonavista to Spiller point, a distance of iu.j miles in a S. i W. direction, the coast is of cliff, falling a mile back to several Ismail bays, which afford no anchorage. SpUIer point is a flat-topped cliff with [several remarkable small but high detached rocks off it, the highest being 121 feet labove the sea. Gape Largent, a mile further to the south, is a shelving point Iwith the extremity cut off from the main part of the land by a deep rent, and at la short distance off it is a small rock just above the water. The hiU witliin the Ipoint is 433 feet above the sea and remarkable, being separated from Burnt Iridge by a deep valley, and rising more than 200 feet above the flat cliffs of the ■coast. Bird Xslrnd Oot*. — A mile south of cape Largent is Bird island cove, which laffords no shelter, but it is a good station whence cod fishing in boats may be carried on. The North Bird island, 1{ miles southward of cape Largent, is small and 130 |feet high. The South Bird island, half a mile south of North Bird island, also small, and 124 feet high. Flowers point is 4 miles southward from cape Largent. The coast between this point and North head, 3 miles to the southward, is flat with steep cliffs and bends inward forming a bay three-quarters of a mile deep. poTiTiABBIAW baxvx. — The coast from cape Bonavista southward is bordered by an irregular rocky bank, known as the Dollarman bank, wliich is considered 1 excellent fishing ground. Upon this, from the depth of 20 fathoms at its north- east end (S.E. i E. distant 5^% miles from Bonavista lighthouse) to 1^ miles off ^orth head, are numerous rocks 7 to 10 fathoms under water on which the sea 8 ♦ ■i. , " ,- ny.v CAPE BONAVISTA TO BAOCALIEU ISLAND. brflaka after an easterly gale ; it is therefore advisable in bad weather to pass eastward of the Haypooks, the outer danger, by keeping Bonaviata lighthouse westward of N.N.W., or Largent hill open of North Bird island, until Skerries hill (westward of Gatalina harbour) bears northward of W. by N., when a vessel may steer more to tho westward. OATAUniA BASBOVa. — Gatalina harbour at the north side of the entrance to Trinity bay, is good for small vessels; it is dangerous to approach and should not be attempted by a stranger. The Feather rook (6 foihoAs under water) bears from Green island lighthouse S.E., distant nearly 4 miles. The Skerriet, a rock with 6 fathoms over it, bears from the lighthouse E. i S., distant 61 miles, and 11 miles farther out in the same direction is th^ Haypoohs, with 6 fathoms on it. The Morris rock, with 32 feet over it, bears from the liglithouse S.S.W. \ W., distant one mile. The Poor shoal (a mile in length E. by N. and W. by S., and lying between one and 2 miles about E. \ N. from the Iight)ioust>) has 22 feet water on it; orer this the sea breaks heavUy in easterly gales. Besides the Brandies shoal (4 feet under water) which is nearly three-quarters of | a mile in length and faces the mouth of the harbour and the Charlton rock (f( feet under water) nearly midway in the entrance, there is the White rock at about 120 yards from the south shore, half a mile within Burnt point* The entrance of the harbour is formed between Shepherd point on the north and Burnt point on tlie south, and is barely \\\ cables wide ; whilst about half a milf farther in between Wliite rock and Goodland point north of it, it is less than 3 cables across. Within, one part of the harbour (known as the North-east j arm) runs in that direction more than half a mile ; and another part (named the South-west arm) extends a mile in that direction. The houses are scattered | along the north-west or inner shore of the North-east arm, and at the head of the South-west arm is the watering place. Vessels drawing U feet water will find excellent anchorage, mud bottom, in the j North-east arm. A swell sets up the South-west arm after heavy gales, but nqt j so as to endanger vessels ; the anchorage here is in 4 fothoms, mud. Light. — On Green island, at the south side of the entrance, is a white lighthouse j having a red roof, which exhibits at 02 feet above high water a fixed white light, | visible in clear weather at a distance of 15 miles. The entrance to C'atalina harbour will be recognised by the lighthouse on Green | island. As the sea breaks heavily on the shoals and rocks in front of the har- bour diu-ing and immediately alter easterly gales, the approach at such times is I difficult and dangerous. The fishermen are trustworthy pilots, and may nearly always be met with off tlie )iarbour during day. To enter between the south-west end of the Brandies shud (which generally breaks) and Oreen island, — after clearing the outer dangers, steer in witli Burnt point in Une with the chui'ch onj • A rook, 12 feet under water, lies 2 cables W. by N. \ N. from the Charlton, and l\ cables S.E. ^ £. from the extremity of Goodland point. From it the centre of Mannel inland is in one with Goodland point bearing N.W. by W., and the white spire of the Episcopal church is on with a rock westward of a grey sandy beach N.N. W. | W. To I pass southward of it, the whole of Manuel islet should appear open of Goodland point. A 2J-fathoni rock lies a cable S.W. i S. from Goodland point ; and, another rook, the! Lowe, 2 fivtlionis under water, lies on the southern side of the harbour at rather more | than a cable Irou) the uortherii point of South-east cove, with Goodland point bearing N.E. RAGGED HARBOUR. &c. 21 tlie sliore of the North-east arm N.W. f N., until the lighthoiwe bears W<>st ; then steer about N.N.W. and round Burnt point, keeping the low grasHy iulct of Manuel partly open of Goodland point, so as to avoid th^ Charlton rock, and 8teer mid -channel up the Sontli-west arm.* To enter northward of the Brandies — steer in with Goodland point in line with tlie church on the north shore of the Suuth-west arm, until Careen island \iir)>t- house bears nearly S.W. by S. ; then tsteer towards Burnt point until Mauuel islet is partly open, and proceed as befoi-e. It is high water full and change, at 7li. : springs rise 6 feet, and neaps 4 feet. B«cK«d Barbon*. — Ragged harbour, a small harbour about H miles south- westward from Green island, is so named from the rough and craggy appearance of the islets that shelter it, and as these are more or less connected togetlier by rooks, entrance to the harbour is far from easy for strangers. The depth within is 2i to <)| fathoms, and protection against southerly and south-easterly winds (and the heavy sea sometimes accompanying them) is nifordcd by tlie islets. Vessels entering must go northward of the islets and thciL* connecting reef, run- ning on north, until the harbour comes quite open, then steer in between the round island near the main, and a large black rock (the outermost of the ragged ones before mentioned) until westward of them all, or until the south head of Catalina appears between the westernmost rock and the main, when they may anchor. A river of good water is at the head of the harbour. From Ragged harbour the coast trends in a W.S.W. direction about 10 mik's to a prominent headland named Horse Chops, which is the most easterly part of the land forming Trinity harbour, and rises to the height of 266 feet ; iu the space between there is no inlet nor place of shelter. Green bay head, a bluff 91 miles south-westward from Catalina harbour and 2\ miles from Horse Chops point is often the tirst land observed when bound for Trinity bay, if Baccalieu island or light has not been seen. In bad weati at night or in a heavy sea, a stranger should not approach the coast nenrer than 7 miles while northward or eastward of cupe Bonavista ; nor any part of the land as far to the south-west as Catalina. Under (westward of) Green bay head, is Green bay, which is open and exposed to southerly wmds. At its eastern part there is a small sandy beach with a rivulet. Vessels anchor here only when the weatiier is very fine and with the wind off the land. From Green bay head the coast to Horse Chops point and round to English head, a distance of 5i miles, is high land, steep-to, and clear of danger. Snglish Bay and Salmon Cot* — English head, the southern point of , English bay, is a bold point 100 feet high and having a depth almost close to it of (i feet to 4 fathoms. In the bay is a depth of 4 to il fatlioms, and shelter fro'n uU winds except those from west^vard and south-westward ; vessels usually anchor off the church in 6 to Oi fathoms, gravel and mud. Salmon Cove rues in northerly from English bay, its western side being formed by Fox island, which is joined to the northern shore by a very narrow neck of low land. It is a good fishing place, clear of sunken dangers, and from 17 to 10 and H fathoms deep. Its eastern shore is bold, and at its northern end tlicro is a small run of water, wliich extends a considerable distance inland. Vessels ut iflii'' ■ ' if •!■■ 1 '• /" ii.-- ; .* , > " 'v'. ^^:';r ■* ; i'.,):'.- I,* '' " v^r i. ■■■ V- •>'''J- '.- -■« ■■\'-. •i :v:-k :i' '*', ■'.':. <;, l4:' ';.:' >.' ■■■•'% ' ,'t !.?"".■. >■■; '. . ■■^ •• :' .V ■A,' v'.. j. ..- '■' : J- ■> ■ ^■■'v :':'■ i ..K / ,- ■ , .. ,»■ * A detaohed rook, about 10 feet higli, lies 20 yards off Burnt point, tends half a cable from the point. Shoal water ex- 99 CAPE BONA VISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. ;j anohor near the head of the cove, in 5^ to 10 fathoms mud, are sheltered from almost all winds. BeMnliood Bay. — Robinhood bay is on the western side of Fox islaoid. Its flntranoe is a mile wide between Fox head (on the east side) and Skerwink head (on the west), and the bay thence extends northward nearly 2 miles, gradually decreasing iti width to its head. The depth in midchannel at the entrance is 2(1 fathoms, and at its head 6 to 5 fathoms. Vessels sometimes anchor here to fish, in 7 to 17 fathoms, but «re exposed to winds between South and S.W. ^ On the west side of the entrance to Robinhood bay is a group of rocks about 40 feet high known as the Skerwink rocks, almost close to which is a depth of 4 fathoms. A sunken ledge of 2i fathoms, the Fox rock, also lies a cable southward from Fox head, the east point of entrance. The only danger in the bay, with the exception of these and the ledges jutting out from various parts of the shore on each side, is a 3^ fathom patch in mid-channel at about a cable from the head of the bay. If therefore a vessel keeps midway from the shores when proceeding up the bay no danger whatever will be incurred. TBHrXTT SABBOVB. — Trinity harbour lies westward of tlie point of land of which Skerwink head is the southern extremity, and is considered one of the best and largest in Newfoundland. It is surrounded by hills ranging from 200 to .'(80 feet above the sea. A high rocky irregular peninsula extending from the western side of the harbour, divides it into two portions, known as the North-west and South-west arms, in each of which are several small bays and coves. On the lower part of the peninsula facing the south-east are scattered the houses com- posing the town, and along shore are the several wliarfs. A narrow strip of land which projects half a mile in a north-westerly direction from the base of Salvage hill on the south-west side of tlie entrance interlocks Skerwink head outside it, and thus completely protects tlie South-west arm and nearly land-locks the whole harbour. At the termination of this strip of land is a small islet 20 feet high, named Admirals island, and 1^ cables north of the latter, is a sunken ledge of If fathoms, known as the Mussel rock. Within the islet and rock a tongue of sand extends from the shore Ij cables to the north. Jutting out from the eastern shore, a quarter of a mile mthin Skerwink head, are the Herring rocks, between wliich and Admirals island (about the narrowest part of the entrance) tlie distance is 2^ cables. The depth in mid-channel of the entrance is 20 to 11 and 16 fathoms. Vessels bound in should keep in mid-way, and give the Mussel rock (whose position is al- most always ckTly indicated by discoloured water) a berth ; they can afterwards anchor in any convenient spot, and be sheltered from almost all winds, — the bottom throughout is of tough clay, mud and gravel. Trinity church is inlat. 48° 22' 4" N., long. 53° 21' 33" W. It is high water, full and change at 7h. 10m. ; springs rise ;U feet, neaps 2 feet. Bonaventnre Bead, — From Trinity li;nl)our to lioniiveuturc bond, the iioilli point of entrance to Smith sound, tlic liistauce is o miles iu a S.W. by W. direction ; the coast between is irregular a id forms several coves, the principal of I which are named Cuckold, Trouty and Spaniards,— the two last-mentioned have a depth of 4 to 10 fathoms and are exposed to eastward. Bonaventure head is a bold blufif 537 feet high, having several clilTy rocks off its southern side. BMXTB 80VKD. — The enti-ance to Smith sound lies between Bonaventure head (with the coast westward of it) on the north side, and the island known as Irelands Eye (with its outlying islets, the Ragged islands) on the south side, and BRITISH HARBOUR, Ac. ii eltared frnm is from 1 to 1} miles wide. The soand thence extends 26 miles between the north shore of Random island an4 tlie main to the narrow channel at its head, which separates it from the North-west arm of llaudom sound ; its breadth variea from a half to 1^ miles, and the shores are steep and rocky until near the head. tlie hills near the coast rising 400 to 700 feet. In the lower reaches the depth is 60 to 80 fathoms, and the shores are so steep that no spot can be recommebded fur anchorage, except the various small harbours near the entrance. liagijed Islands. — These, the north-eastern of the islets at the entrance to Smith sound, cover a space of cables east and west by Ik cables. They are 115 feet high with a ragged and barren appearance, and their eastern extremity is 21 miles W. by S. h S. from the south side of Bonaventure head. Off their south side there is a dangerous rock, known as the Ragged rock, which dries 2 feet aft low water springs ; it lies with the east extreme of the islands bearing N.E. \ E. distant half a mile, and the west extreme N.N.W. ^ \V. half a iniie ; and should not be approached on its east side nearer than When New Bonaventure church comes in line with the east end of Ragged islands ; — Wolf head in line with the west end of the islands leads westward of it. Old Bonavanttixe. — Maiden point, at about a mile W.N.W. from the south part of Bonaventure head, has on its west side (separated by a narrow channel) a small flat-topped inaccessible islet with detached rocks extending half a mile from its south side. Between the head and the islet is Old Bonaventure inlet which runs N,W., about a mile, and is 14 to fathoms deep. Here small vessels anchor vtithin two islets, the western of which is 20 feet high and the eastern 10 feet, in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud. On either side of these islets there is a channel half a cable wide ; the western is 4 fathoms deep, the centre 9 fathoms, and the eastern fathoms. The anchorage is about 2 cables in extent and is sheltered by the islets from the heavy sea sometimes sent in by southerly winds. Cat Cove. — Northward of Maiden islet is Cat cove, an inlet about 2 cables wide, and having a depth of 8 to 15 fathoms, sand and shells. It affords no anchorage, and is exposed to southerly winds. Mew Bonaventure. — Between Maiden islet and Wolf head, 1 j miles westward from the islet, are New Bonaventure bay. Broad cove, and Kerley harbour, all ex- tending in about a mile, but open to the S.E. At the head of New Bonaventure bay and 1^ cables from the shore there is a rocky patch 3 fathoms under water. The village of New Bonaventure is at the head of the bay on the aastern shore, and the church on its left is in a commanding position and a remarkable object. The settlement was formed for the purpose of cultivation, and although the bay is not at all times safe for shipping, the ice does not form so soon, and breaks up earlier than at Old Bonaventure. Broad cove rocks, on the west side of New Bona- venture bay and in the entrance to Broad cove, dry 2 feet at low water springs. New Bona venture church bearing northward of N.E. by E., and well open of the point opposite the village leads eastward of them. Kerley Harbour. — Kerley harbour is an inlet half a mile loTig in a N.N.W. direction, and a cable wide, with a depth of 23 fathoms at tlie entrance gruduully shoaling to its head. It is separated from New Bonaventure and Broad cove by White point, which is low and slopes fi'om the hills within it ; these are about 300 feet high— the point is steep-to. British Harbour. — Between Wolf head and British harbour point, 1^ miles westward from it, the coast consists of a remarkable flat topped clitf, the coutral part of which (from its appcai'ance of being artificiiil) is known as liattorv 1 ■'i-- V* 1| p^ • V fe ik- ' P^:^: ;'t,T i- " ^' ■*^. ;! -•^■^ ■■; H :;^i? •4 •■'■{'■' %■< ■u'\ *' ■ iil *' ;•' ^v. , f ♦ V .*' ^r V^'^ *i- ' "tl . i^..>- f ■". , ?,i >.-■"■ :■■■ 1 1 Iff f;' t.' ; *■' $■ ii'; i?1-/' u OAPE BONAVIBTA TO BAOOALIEU ISLAND. point ; anil Hm behind it stenp bniren hills nOO and 700 feet high. British harbonr is formed between the point of this namo and West point, a small steep rooky promontory, steep-to, half a mile west of it. The harbour runs in north- ward about a mile, and at about three-quarters of a mile from the entrance dscreaMs to a cable in width ; it is here 7 fathoms deep— within these narrows is the aoiohorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, mud, over a space of 1) cables. The head of the harbour forms into three littlo bays, on the shores of which are the houses of the fishermen. A rook i feet under water lies outside the narrows at half a cable from the easteru shore. It may be avoided by keeping the western shore aboard. Vop« Bavbenr. — From West point to Pope harbour, rather more than If miles, the coast is broken and rocky ; midway is Derby cove, where there are a few houses and fishing stages beliind a small peninsula ; and a rock 8 feet under water lies half a ouble ofif a small cove 8 cables east of P«>pe harbour. At the entrance to Pope harbour tliere are two rocks above water, the western of wliioh is 18 feet high ; and there are other rooks (uncovered) eastward of the above near the shore within Wont j^oiut. The two western channels formed by these rooks are a little more than a cable wide with deep water. Inside, the harbour opens out to half a mile east and west by a quarter of a mile wide, and has a depth of 4 and 6 fathoms water, mud. A Bunkeh rock with shoal water around it lies three-quarters of a cable off the centre of the north shore,' and another rook lies about the same distance off the east shore. A largo stream runs into the harbour on tlie uortli ; it drains a con- siderable tract of country, and good-sized spars are brought down by it. On the western side of the harbour there is a snug basin *i cables east and west, three- quarters of a cable wide, and three fathoms deep, known as Round harbour i the entrance to it is narrow with 2 fathoms water. Immediately over the went shore of Pope harbour there is a remarkable hill, bearing the name of Indian Look-out. Its summit is a steep cliff 506 feet high. Blekfluui Islands. — Tliia is a group of islets and rocks, half a mile westward from Pope harbour, which extends rather more than half a mile parallel to the shore ; tlie eastern and liighest is \)S feet high. The islets are separated from the coast by a channel i cables wide and '20 to '20 fathoms deep ; at half a cable firom the main aro two rocks, one uncovers, the other has less than one fathom water on it. fyi^v— « Bailtonr. — Hickman harbour is a narrow inlet, fronted by the Hick- man islets. It is half a oable wide at tlie entrance, and 4 fatlioms deep a cabk within, when it quickly narrows to -20 yards, and is choked with rocks. Warwiok Barbour. — Warwick harbour, tliree-quarters of a mile above Hick- man islands, lies on tlie west side of a small peninsula, 45 feet lilgh. The entrance is neo-row, but witliin the harbour is 2i cables east and west, and a cable wide ; much of this space is occupied by an islet with rocks in the channel on either side of it. A vessel drawing feet water could be warped in. At 2i miles westward of Warwick harbour is Burnt point, the coast between forming a slight bond, which is steep-to, and cliffy. At 1} miles further on is a small bay with a stream ninnuig into it ; a rock 8 feet high lies close off its east point. Baydon Point and Xions Barbour. — Haydon point and Long harbour are on the soutlt side of Smith sound. Tlio coast of Random island, also the islets forniirg tho west side of tlie Thoroughfare, are flat and of little elevation. Hnydou point, the north extremity of tho island, is rocky, and bordered close-to by rocks above water ; a little islet of the same name lies 6 cables eastward of the SNOOKS HAUBOUU. Ac 36 point, and hax rooks extendini^ from it towards ttie shore. At rather less than a vA\o eastward of the point on the north aide of Random island ia tlie entrnnoo to Long iiarbour, a narrow inlut running to the south about tliree-quarters of a mile, and carrying from 8 to 2 fatlioms water to its head. An islet at the entrance has deep water on either side of it ; but a reef wliioh covers at high water, exteudb half a cable from its south-east point, and narrows the passage on that side. X«w«r IMUM* OoT«. — At three-quarters of a mile eastward of Long hai1)oar there is an islet 10 feet high, and about 50 yards square, which is steep-to ; in the channel between it and the shore, which is one cable wide, the water is deep. From this islet the coast of Random island continues eastward, almost straight fur 41 miles, to Lower Lance cove and is steep-to, witli no anchorage off it. Lower Lanoe cove is open to the N.E., and H cables wide, but tlio depth, 42 fathoms, is too great for anchorage. Between Lower Lance cove and Bluff point, about lit miles to the N.W. of it, the ooast forms a bend to the S.W. and contains several little coves separated by rucky points, where fishing stations have beeu esttiblished near small streams, the whole under the namj of Britiinnia cove. As the viciuity of this cove is favourable for agriculture, a less migratory people them Newfoundland fishermen generally are have settled here. Off Upper Lance cove is /wi/100 Cove rock, with one fathom water on it ; it is small, with S to 10 fathoms water ronnd it, and 4 fathoms between it and the shore, from which it is distant H cables. Burnt point, shut in with Tilton point, leads northward of it. Anchorage. — There is anchorage in Burgoyne cove west of Tilton head, on the north side of Smith sound, in 12 fathoms water, at li cables from the shore. This is a fair stopping place, and sheltered from the strong winds which generally blow up and down the reach. Baooks Barbour. — From Bluff point on the south shore to Snooks harbour, the coast curves to the north with a general W.N.W. bend for 41 miles ; it is steep, in places cliff, with a few rocks half a cable off. The so-called harbour is half a mile square within the line of the coast, and the depth is 12 fathoms, mud, at three- quarters of a mile from its head. Smith Point on the nortli shore, directly opposite Snooks harbour, ia steep-to; the coast between it and Burgoyne cove is bold, clear of danger, and much broken by numerous gorges and small valleys. Approaching Smith point the land is less broken ; there are a few houses on the coast a mile eastward of the point, and a cable off them is a depth of 4 fathoms but it suddenly deepens to 10 and 20 fathoms. At Ij miles eastward of Smith point is Upper Ro'^ky valley, here the depth is 6 fathoms, rocky bottom, at 8 cables from the beach ; from this it suddenly deepens to 80 fathoms. The Bar. — The shallow channel connecting the head of Smith sound with the head of the North-west arm of Random sound, (up to which they both gradually shoal) is known as tlie Bar. At high water it is a quarter of a mile wide ; at low water spits of sand and stones stretch off both shores leaving a narrow channel half a mile long and 2 feet deep. At a mile above Smith point the depth in the centre of the soimdis 24 fathoms, thence to the Bar, a distance of 4 miles, the water shoals gradually. The breadth of the sound is here eight-tenths of a mile, and along each shore the soundings indicate a submarine terrace with 3 to 7 fatiioms, shelving suddenly to the deep water of the channel. • .'t '< M ■■■'.' ^ *'",'' f Vu < 80 CA^^E UONAVISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. TtMttiimu vn IflLAWS. — This iaknd is on t)ie south side of the eutrance to Smith sound ; it is about 2^ miles in longth N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and a milo in breadt)i. Its coast line is deeply indented, and several reniarkabjo peaks rise from the island, — the highest near the centre, 440 feet above the sea, is steep and rocky on all sides, — and at the north-west point is a conspicuous cone 870 feet high. A narrow channel, called tlio Thoroughfare, separates the island from the north-east point of Random island. Irelands Eye point, the north-east extreme of the island, is a steep cliff; and 1^ miles S.W. of it is the entrance to Irelands Eye harbour. About midway is Jacobs cove, with several email islets or rocks. Xrtlanda By« Bsurbonr is an inlet, running in north about half a mile, and less than half a cable wide, with an islet and several rocks above water at its entrance. It is available for large boats, which can lie alongside the stages. Tray Town Harbonr. — This inlet is westward of the highest peak of the island, and half a mile from Irelands Eye harbour ; the coast between is rocky. It winds in northward and then turns to the south-westward, a distance of a mile, with an average brer.dUi of three-quarters of a cable. In the first reach the depth is 14 fathoms, in the second it shoals to I) feet eastward of an islet near the end where it becomes narrow ; beyond the islet tl>e depth is 12 feet. At half a mile S.W. from Tray To-.vn harbour is a small basin called Round harbour with IJ fathoms water, but the entrance being nearly dry at low water, it is of little value even for boats. The south-west point of Irelands Eye island is of shelving rock ; thence the coast trends northward for |1;^ miles to the north-west point, having about mid- way a small rooky bay. Eastward of the latter point, and at tho base of the conical hill, is another small ba,y a quarter of a mile deep, with a li fathom patch near the centre, and a rock above water off its west point. Irelands Eye point is 2 miles eastward of this bay ; between, and a cable from the shore, a little east of Black Duck cove, is a patch with 4 feet water on it. Gunner Mock. — Gunner rock (awash at low water) lies about 2 cables S.W, of the entrance to Tray Town harbour, ond three quarters of a cable from the shore. The harbour kept open leads clear to the north of it ; and Bonaventura head, appearing between the Ragged islands and tlie north side of Anthony island, bearing E. by >^ , i N., leads southward of it, and along shore between the rock and Black lr>dge. Black Ledge. — -Tlie Black ledge, south-west of Anthony island and fronting Round liarboiu', i.s 3 cables in length W.N.W. and E.S.E. ; its east end has one fathom water on it , and at its west end is a rock just covered at high water. Bonaventura head, in line with the east extreme of Anthony island, E.N.E. leads southward of the ledge, and tho head between the east end of the Ragged islands, and the west side of Anthony island leads northward or between it and Irelands Eye. OBBBZr laitAXTD. — Green island, the south-eastemnioRt of the islands at the eutrance to Smith sound, is 121 feet above high water, nearly level on the summit, 8i cables in length east and west, and 24 cables in breadth ; its east end lies S.W. § W. 5J miles (nearly) from Bonaventure head, and from it Duck island bears W. by S. | S. distant 2f miles. A 7 to U fathoms bank extends half a mile from its north-east end, and a quarter of a mile from its east side. AXTTaoirr X8&Ain>. — Anthony island is about three quarters of a mile in length E.N.E. and W.S.W., nearly half a mile in breadth, and on its west side RANDOM ISLAND, LITTLE HARBOUR, Ac. i!7 1208 feet high. It lies N.W. by N. rather more than a mile from Oreen island, and S.W. by W. li'o miles from the Ragged islands. The channel between it and Irelands Eye island is •') cables wide and 20 to HO fathoms deep. BVOX XBZJUffS. — Duck island is 1.S9 feet high, 4 cables in length north and south, and 2 cables in breadth ; it slopes towards the east, and is divided into two peaks by a '"nlley running in the direction of its length. Shag Inlets. — The Shag islets extend N.N.E. 3 cables from the northern part of Duck island, forming a channel between a cable wide. These islets are 80 feet higli, about 50 yards wide, and steep all round. Indian hist*. — The Indian islets, off the north-west point of Irelands Eye, cover a space of 3i cables north and south. The outer and largest islet is 145 feet liigh. Via* Thoronshflure. — The channel, known as tho< Thoroughfare, separating Irulanuj Eye from Random island, is 1^ miles in length ; at its south entrance are several rocky islets, the Eastern one (Thoroughfare rock) is 11 feet high, and between it and the south-west point of Irelands Eye is the channel, half a cable wide with 8 fathoms water. After passing the rock from southward bring it in liuc with the north point of Duck island (bearing about S. i E.) and it will lead westward of the Indian rock at the north end of the channel ; and when Bona- venture head is open of Irelands Eye point, a vessel will be nortliward of the rock and in 10 fathoms water, on the south side of Smitli sound The Indian is the only rock in the Thoroughfare, which la not always above water; itom it tlie north end of the largest Indian islet bears about E. } N., and distant 2 cables from its nearest part. BAiroom XB&AMS, which separates Smith sound from Random sound is 16 miles in lengtli N.W. and S.E., and (ii miles in breadth. Its highest liill, Gin- picker, is 4 miles from its east coast ; it rises to tlie height of 843 feet. The east coast of the island is much indented with small harbours, and off it are several islands and rocks, the most noiihern of which are the Ragged islands (already desciibed) . At its north-east end the land rises 540 feet and forms a remark- able peak named Bakers loaf. From tliis point of the island the coast is bold and rocky for 1\ miles to Connor islet, a low island at the entrance to the North- west arm. N<»tli-w«at Arm. — On the south-west side of Connor islet, separated about half a cable, is Sullivan islet, 25 feet high ; between the latter and a flat promon- tory 46 feet high, named SUldown point, half a mile westward of it, is the entrance to the small inlet known as the North-west arm. The western half of the entrance to this inlet is obstructed by a bed of rooks, some of which are uncovered ; the channel in is between these rocks and Sullivan islf>t, and along at the foot of Bakers loaf. The anchorage is about a quarter of a mile square, in 9 fathoms water, mud. There is a small nook inside Sullivan islet with 2 fathoms water, called Riders harbour. A rock with one fathom water on it lies just off the east end of Sullivan islet. Vessels rounding Connor and Sullivan islets, should give them a berth of a cable, particularly at night ; v.hen south of SulUvan islet witli Bakers loaf open, bring the south point of Duck island in lino with the south point of Sullivan islet, bearing S.S.E. % E., wliich leads into the North-wesi arm. Zilttle Harbonr. — Little harbour is immediately westward of the North-west arm ; the entrance is 2 cables wide between the rocky islet south of Silldown point and the opposite shore, which is bold with a small rock above water off it. V "I ■> .",■,. 28 CAVE HONAVISTA TO llAOCALIEU ISLAND. The Itikik runs to the uort^vweAt iibout half a mile, and then tiima to the south- west for !2 cables ; it is narrow and carries n depth of -4 fathoniH. The coast between Little harbour and I'liist head 2 miles southward from it Is of low cliff; the hills over it are ilat topped, and the highest, is M'i feet above the 8ca. East head, a cliff HH feet liigh, in tlie north point of entrance to Long cove and Deer harbonr. On the coast north-west of the Noi-th Bird islet is a remarkable flat cliff, called from its supposed resemblance to a fish flake. Cold East flake. The Nort,h Bird islot lies a mile north of East head, and a quarter of a mile from the shore ; it is 110 feet high, 2 cables in length north and south, and a cable in breadth. The South Bird islut lies half a mile north of East head and licablea from the shore; it is 121 feet high, 2 cables in lengtli north and south, and half a cable in breadth. iMug Oor; — Long covo runs in N.N.E. three quarters of a mile; it is abo'ta cable wide, and shoals from 20 fathoms at the entrance to 2 fathoms at its head. A little within the west point and a third the distance across to the east shore, is a rock with one fathom water on it. OMr Barbour. — Deer harbour is about half a mile west of Long cove ; its entrance is half a cable mde and 5 fathoms deep, between a small low islet on the nortli, and the rooks close off a point on the south. The harbour is 8 cables in length and about a cable in breadth, and has from 5 to 9 fathoms water. A small sunken rock Ilea close to the shore south of a waterfall. The approach to Long oove and Deer harbour is between East head and Black rock, nortl) of Verge island : from East head to Long cove the distance is about three-quarters of a mile, the coast being low cliff with small indentations. At i oables east of Long covo is a roof of rocks extending more than a cable from tho coast. ▼BBOB l8&Ain>, — Verge island lies about a quarter of a mile from the coast between East head and East Random head, and covers (with the rocks and Ideta off it) a space of a mile nortli and south by half a mile in breadtli ; it m 204= feet liigh; 31 cables in length east and west, and 2i cables in breadth. From its north- west end rocky islets extend half a mile to the N.E., terminating in a small black rock about .'<0 foot high ; from the south-west end rocky islets extend 8 cables to the southward, tho largest (Rat island) being 05 feet liigh. At tho south- east end. Copper islet (l.SO feet above the sea) lies 3 cables off, with rooks between ; and Ik cables off the north-east end of the island is a rock called the Virge. D«or Book. — Tliis s'uall rock has 4 foot water on it, and is generally marked by a break, except in a smooth sea at high water. It lies with Bonaventure bluff in lino with tho saddle of Duck island bearing N.E. by E. \ E., and tho norili point of entrance to Deer harbour on with Black rock N.W. by N. ^«« Leiigc—ThG Gun ledge, with «i and 7^ fathoms water on it, lies about half a mile N.E. from Deer rock, tho depth between being 21 fathoms. Bonavenfurc head appearing midway between Duck and Green islands, N.E, by E., leads pouth-eastward of these dangers; Ginpicker hill in line ^iili the north point of entrance to Deer harbour N.W. J W., leads northward of the Gun ledge; and Bakers loaf in line with the west points of tho two Bird islets N, by E. ^ E. leads westward of tlio dangers. mAHBOM BBA9 flASBOUB.— Random Head harbour is about a mile from Verge isUuid in a nearly west direction, and on the north side of I^nst Random head. It is about half a mile square, 10 to IH fatlionis doop, and the soutJi uuil RANDOM SOUND. 2» to the Bouth- west shores are much indented with rocks extending out 3 cnblos. The north lahoro iB bold, and here small vessds niny anchor in a bight ; with this exception the harbour is not recommended. Rgeon islet, on the north side of entrance, is 2 cables in length N.N.W. and S.S.E., half a cable wide, level, and about 40 feet high; from it n ro^f extends sontli 14 cabins, terminating in a rock awash known as the Mouse. The pnHsage in, between the Mouse and the south shore is 8 cables wide and has deep water. SAST BAZVSOiMi BBAB. — East Uandom head the north point of entrance to Random sound, is the termination of a range of hills, the highest of which rises H08 feet ; it is 612 feet high, and its eastern extremity consists of several quoin- shaped masses, which appear from the head as landslips. A 10-fathom bank ex- tends 2 cables from the head. wasT BARBOra BBAD, the south point of the entrance to Bandom sound, is distant nearly H miles W. by S. from East Random head. Its summit is 291 feet high, level, and the eastern extreme of the land is a high cliff, just separated by a chasm from the main part of the head. Rooks mostly above water extend from it a cable eastward. BANSOK BOunm. — The entrance to this sound is between the western coast of East Random head and West Random head and is 1^ miles wide, with a depth of 50 to 185 fathoms. At 51 miles within East Random head the sound ia divided into two branches by a tongne of land 11 miles in length in a W.N.W. and E.S.E. direction, and about 8 miles in breadth, the eastern termination of which (named Middle cliff) faces the entrance to the sound, and is a steep cliff S57 feet high. The shores of the sound are generally steep-to. Nortb-w«8t Arm of Bandom Bound. — At less than half a mile westward of East Random head and half a cable off a steep shelving point, is a rock with less than one fathom water on it, and another rock (awash) lies close off the east side of the point ; at about three-quarters of a mile farther on are some rocky islets, and about a cable from the shore a patch with 3 fathoms water on it ; rather more than 1^ miles further* westward there is an islet 40 feet high, and 4 cables farther on another islet at the entrance to Salmon cove, — these latter islets are separated from the shore by deep water. Sdrnon Cove. — Salmon cove extends in 4 cables, and has at its head a salmon fishing station : from ilus cove the coast trends N.W. and N. by W. 3 miles to Strong islands. The coast from East Random head to tJiese islands is in general steep and cliffy, the hills close over it ranging 400 to 700 feet in height. Strong isla ads consist of two principal islands ^e 123, the other 145 feet high, with a few rocks above water. The north stab 'these islands forms with the coast an inlot called Strong Tickle, which is nearly three quarters of a mile in length and half a cable 'vide, with 10 to 4 fathoms water, except near its head, where there is 1^ fathoms. The channel between the main islands has 6 fathoms water in it. Quarry Rock. — Quarry rock, lying 2 cables W.S.W. from the south point of the west Strong island, has 2 fatlioms water on it. Passenger point (north of Middle cliff) open of Holloway rock, S. i E., leads eastward of the Quarry ; the point just westward of Tolly poiuL open northward of Gooseberry islet about W. by N. i N., leads north of th, rock ; and the same point south of Gooseberry islet, W.N.W., leads south of t) - rock. Gooseberry islet, nearly in '.aid channel, IJ miles westward of Strong islands, i> small and 00 feet high. A racky shoal with If fathoms water on it lies a ((*;. *■ ■■■. lit-. ■'■■%■:■ '■•■' V:. ;: ■ I..-. 80 CAPE 130NAVISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. quarter of a mile, N.E. from Gooseberry islet, and another with 5i fathoms on it^ 4 cables N.N.W. ^ W. from the islet. From tliis islet the first reach of the north- west arm of Eandom sound continues to the westward for T\ railes, with the depth in mid-channel decreasing from 00 to 60 fathoms ; the shore is steep-to, and there is no anchorage. From Middle cliflf (the eastern extremity of the land separating the two arms of the sound) a steeo cJilTy coast trends 1^ mUds northward to Passerger, the south point of entrauoe to ihe North-west arm. at 4 cables beyond which is HoUo- way rock, close to the shore and the termination of a steep point. The latter point separates two coves, and half a mile to the N.W. of it is Pudding point, a rocky termination of a ridge of hiUs, which are 548 feet abo\ e the sea. At three- quarters of a mile more westward is Black Duck cove, a quartor of a mile deep, with from 20 to 6 fathoms water. Hickman Harbour. — Hickman harbour opposite Black Duck cove, is 3 cable» wide at iis entrance, and runs in North three-quarters of a mile ; on its east shore there is a bed of rocks H to 6 feet under water ; with this exception the depth is 18 to 8 fathoms, over gravel and mud. This harbour is a mile from West Strong island, and at about two-thirds the distanci. tbero is a slate quarry. The coast is clear of danger. Maggotty Cove. — At nearly 2J miles westward of Black Duck cove (on the south shore) there is a remarkable cone 650 feet high, called the Tolt ; between this and Maggotty cove 3i miles farther on the coast forms a curve to the north, and its extremity is known as Tolt point. Maggotty cove is 3i miles above Tolt cone, and is 25 fathoms deep at 2 cables from the shore. A large stream runs into it, at the mouth of which is a sawmiU ; the valley of this stream runs southward in the direction of Hatcher cove (in the South-west aim) with low land right across. South Bight. — On the south shore in the elbow of the North-west arm there is a bay, called South Bight ; here the coast trends northward, and about three quarters of a mile is another bay, known as the Bottom. These bays are each about 3 cables wide and a quarter of a mile deep, with 12 fathoms watei at 3 cables from tho shore. Bald Nap and Forster Bocks, — From South Bight the sound is 2^ niius acrcsa to Bald Nap and Forster points on the eastern shore ; these points as a r-hoU iag and rocky, with patches of rock and shoal water off them. Bald Nap rock ( ) toot under water) lies 3 cables West (nearly) from Bald Nap point. The Forotc/ rocks extend off more than a quarter of a mile from the point of the same name , the outer rock, with one fathom water on it, lies a mile N. by W. from Bald Nap rock, with 10 to 6 fathoms between at half a mile &om the shore. Goossberry islet, just open of Lady point, leads southward of these dangers : and Red point hill (517 feet high) in line with Bluff point (or, Red Man point), North, leads westward of them. Beyond the Bald Nap rocks the second reach of the North-wbPf ^,rm trends N. by E. 7 miles to the Bar (described in page 25). The land on iin-. evHt side is wooded, undulating, aud about 150 feet high. On the western siCn. r> iihwar.l of the Bottom, the land rises steep (is 007 feet above the sea for about i mi'es to Bluff point) with the coast mostly of cliff ; thence to Red point, nearly 3 miles farther on, the coast becomes low. Lower silioal hiu'bour. If miles northward of Bluff point, dries at low water, anu rocks whicli nro floverod at high water lie a cable off the upper point; a large stroaia ru:"n into it. R4'(l p sound h the naiT I water, co IShoitl I quarters I tlie lino o I half a mil from tho There I the Bar, gradually RANDOM SOUND. 31 horns on it^ f the north- ;h the depth teep-to, and le two arms serger, the ch is Hollo- The latter ing point, a At three- I mile deep, , is 3 cable» on its east Lception the mile from late quarry. !Ove (on the It ; between the north, above Tolt stream runs ptream runs n) with low irm there is bout three ys are each 1 water at 3 ni.ie^ acrcsa rr, ''hoiv'.ng rock (.(toot le For^tc ,.• ime name , Bald Nap e dangers : !an point), 'xm trends e-'at side L TOi'es to rly 3 miles rthward of water lie a ll<;d point is a low cliff with a rcmarkablw liill over it, 617 feet high. Tlie sound here is only half a mile across to Brown Mead on the east shore ; this is the narrowest part of it. Brown Mead is a spit of sand a few feet above high water, covered witli fri'ass and brushwood. Shonl Htirhour. — S)ioal Imrbour on the west shore above Red point, is three- quarters of a mile wide at the entranco, and at high water extends a mile within tlie lino of coast, but the deposit from a large stream which runs into it dries out 1 half a mile. The depth ijradually increases to 5 fathoms three-quarters of a mile from the dry bank. There is good anchorage from a line between Red point and Brown Mead to the Bar, a space li miles in length by half a mile wide. The depth decreases gradually from 24 fathoms in approaching the Bar, but rather suddenly towards either shore. Bontli-west jaLrm of Random Sound. — The South-west arm runs in about 14 mibs from West Random head and has an average breadth of a mile. It is 175 fathoms deep at the entrance, which decreases to 60 fathoms at a mile from the head of the sound. Fox Harbour. — The coast between West Random head and Fox islet (li miles westward of it; is steep and broken, with rocks half a cable oflF. Fox islet is li cables in length, and a cable in breadth, with steep cliff 93 feet high on the north. The entrance to the small harbour of the same name is on the east side of the islet, and about a cable wide ; within, the space is 2 cables in extent, but ' encumbered with rocks, and fit only for large boats which lie under the east head I close to the shore. Little Heartsease. — At half a mile from Fox islet is a bluff promontory 309 feet high ; thence to Little Heartsease 1 J miles fartlier on the coast is low and rocky. Little Heartsease runs in S.S.W. three-quarters of a mile, with several arms, one I of which reaches within 2 cables from the pond at the head of Heartsease (a har- I hour described subsequently). The harbour is free from danger with an average breadth of three-quarters of a cable, and the depth decreases from 5 fathoms at tlic entrance to 2 fathoms at the head. A rock 3 feet under water nearly closes the entrance of the first arm on the eastern shore. Hoilye Hole. — A.t about 3 cables westward of Little Heartsease there is a cliffy I point 135 feet high, with a rock 3 feet above high water close off it ; about If miles beyond this, is Hodge Hole bay, having an islet in the middle of it, on the souiii west side of which, small vessels may anchor in a space about a cable I square. Rocky Harbour. — On the north coast of the South-west arm, three-quarters of I a mile westward of Middle cliff, and half a cable from the shore, is the South-west rock, 8 feet above high water ; and immediately west of this is Rocky harbour, wliich runs in North half a mile and is Ij cables wide. A rock (awash at low water) lies near the centre of the harbour, leaving a channel along the east shore, I but the west shore is foul. Lotuj Cove. — Long cove, a mile westward of Rocky harbour, is small, with 6 I fathoms water. The coast between is steep cliff and 310 feet liigh. St. Jones Within Harbour. — St. Jones Within harbour is 4} miles westward of I West Random head, and on the north shore of the South-west arm. It is 4 cables wide at the entrance, and trends in N.N.E. half a mile, with 20 fathoms I water, and then N.W. another half a mile to its head. In the inner part the I breadth is 2 cables, and here good anchorage may be obtained in 7 to 6 fathoms I water. Off the east point of entrance th' is a small rook above water f 5 ■. '!• ;( r . "■ . ; •\. . <: ii !;-'■ • ^: i A/.-- '■V .' v;- -.1 . ^' 82 CAPE BONAVISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. Hatohtrt Cove. — Hatchers oove, Hk miles westward of St. Jones Within, has »| depth of 5 fathoms. Small vessels occasionally anchor in it. North Bight. — North Bight, on the north shore, at about li miles from the| head of the South-west arm, is 4 cables in extent and has a depth of 8 to 4 fa- thoms. The bottom is strewn with boulders, many of them (i feet in diameter,! particularly on the eastern shore. A shoal 2 fathoms under water extends fromf its west point. At the head of the South-west arm there is a stream named Bla^k brook.) Anchorage in 10 to Si fathoms, mud, may be obtained half a mile from its mouth. XAiro l0&Ain>. — Long island, on the east side of West Bandom head, is I about a third of a mile from the shore and immediately north of the entrance toi Heartsease harbour. It is about three-quarters of a mile in length E.N.E. and! W.S.W., 2 cables in breadth, and 132 feet high ; its south-east coast consists of I steep cliff. A rock just above water lies half a cable off it and 8 cables from itsj south-west extreme. •^.•••n Zsl«ta, — The Green islets lie upwards of half a mile eastward of Long is- I with 8i fathoms water between, and about the same distance from West Ban- iv. < bead. They consist of a group of fiat-topped rocks or islets, 63 feet above | high water, covering a space 2 cables square. Heartsease Ledge. — Heartsease ledge, a ehoal of 2 i to 10 fathoms water, ex- tends E. by S. about three-quarters of a mile from the Green islets, with a I breadth of 3 cables. The, north-west extreme of West Random head kept open, I bea-nng N.W. } W., leads north of the ledge ; Heartsease church, in line with the! nor^^h rock of the Green islets W. k N. just clears its north-west side ; and Duck I island open of East Bandom head N.E. by E. i E. leads to the south-east of| the ledge. wiiit* Books. — ^The White ro^ks off the entrance to Heartsease, are 9 fe«t| above water, and a few yards in extent. At a cable westward of them is a rockl on which the sea generally breaks, and at a quarter of a mile in the same direc- tion the depth is less than 10 fathoms : on the north and east sides the rook is I ateep-to. Heartsease chuiob open south of Long island leads westward of ih« | rock. Beaver Book. — The Beaver rock, 8 fathoms under water, lies with the White I rocks bearing E.N.E. distant li miles (nearly), and the west end of Heartsease I beach in line with the west side of Heartsease point, N. by £. { E. West I Random head touching the north-east point of Long island leads south-east of | the rock. BBJUiTSlUUna ZHUDT. — Heartsease is a long narrow inlet running in west- 1 ward about two miles, and carrying from 24 fathoms water at the entrance to I shallow water at its head. The north-east point of entrance is a small peninsula I connected to the main land by a neck of shingle 800 yards long, and feet above! high water. A hundred feet up the hill over it is the church, in the form of aj large ordinary house, isolated and conspicuous. The south-west point of entrance is West 8i cables from the nortli-east point.! The breadth of the inlot is 2 cables for nearly a mile, with 18 tc 10 fathoms | water, mud ; then about a cable for nine-tenths of a mile with 10 to V fathoms, [ mud, beyond which is a pond. On the north shore opposi^e the south-west point! are two rocks, each with 2 feet water on them, t-^e only dangers, and should be I avoided. A swell sots into the entrance mth easterly gales, but not sufficient to I affect a vessel off Cranny cove, on the norti< shore half a mile within the entranced ROUND, ST. JONES AND DEER HARBOURS, &o. 3d Hie passage in north or south of tho White rocks is clear of danger. There is a fcliannel three-quarters of a cable wide between Long island and the north-east t)oint of entrance to Heartsease. Bald^Iiead. — The coast from the entrance to Heartsease trends S.W. by S. miles to Bald head ; it is rugged, with several large steep rocks close off it, the and within being broken into numerous hills, — over the coast these reach an lltitude of 670 feet, and at li miles within the highest rises to 669 feet. Bald lead is a bold cliffy bluff, 4K<) feet high ; a valley runs at its back parallel to the joast, giving it u remarkable semi-isolated appearance. St. Jones Bead, about 2 miles S.W. by W. from the south part of Bald Jead, is (il2 feet high, bold, and cliff}' ; the coast between the heads is of the ime character, and about half way is Round harbour. Hound Rarbonr, — The entrance to this little harbour is only about 120 lards wide, and is not easily recognised in the straight cliffy coast that extends pi each side of it, but when well in with the land, the south head, a narrow strip JIG feet high) projecting north waru, will be seen against the higher land behind . The entrance is 3 fathoms deep, and runs in about a cable, when it turns bruptly south-westward to the anchorage behind the south het^d. The harbour less than 2 cables in length, a cable wide, and has a depth of S to 6 fathoms, \ui. Between St. Jones head and St. Jones harbour, 2J miles south-westward from is Seal islet, at half a cable from the shore, and parallel to it. It is 4 cables length, and the extreme breadth is li cables ; it consists of two principal parts, ke northern CO feet high, and tlie southern 148 feet, connected by a lo^r neck, on pich are several rocky hummocks. Off the entrance to St. Jones harbour is St. Jones islet, a small islet 67 feet Igh and inaccessible. It lies S.S.E. 6 cables from the north head of the har- ]»ur, and S.W. i W. 4J miles from the south part of Bald head. It is steepto its east side, and rucks above and under water extend 1^ cables north-west- xrd from its west side. I ST. J0NII3 BASBOmt. — St. Jones harbour is a narrow inlet running in [.W. by W. 3 miles ; when seen on this bearing, it appears remarkable from its eep shores appearing as cliff behind cliff to the head. Crown liiil, steep and Igged, rises at the head of the harbour to the height of 820 feet, and with the Ine-shaped hills rising abruptly from the land north of the harbour is sufficient 1 indicate its position ; but St. Jones islet is a good mark for the entrance. (The average breadth of the harbour for 1^ miles is a cable, with kO fathoms Iter at tho entrance shoaling to 6i fathoms, rocky bottom. At about three- [arters of a mile within the north head and on tho same shore, is a small bay 1 several rocks extending a short distance beyond the line of the coast. Within iirst 1^^ miles the harbour narrows to two-thirds of a cable and carries 4ir Ihoms for a long half mile, when it opens out to its head, wliich is formed by k) bays. The East bay has an area of about 3 square cables ; on its south- ptern shore are some small islets or rocks two-thirds of a cable off, leaving an chorage north-westward of them in 7 to 4 fathoms water, mud. A small arm, I to 30 yards wide, with 2 fathoms water, runs southward from the head of the to within a cable of the north-east arm of Deer harbour. Xorth-icest is the extreme head of the harbour ; it is about 3 cables in length, N.E. and |\V., and 2 cables wide, and has a depth of to 4 fathoms, mud. IBBB HABBOXTR.— What is kuowu as Deer harbour is an extensive narrow f-.^; W' Ai'; ■h •-■ •i ';■ .. ' 1 r '.'■ "i '<.>■■'•■ •-;•!,« ; ■v.- 5!',, ..■%:■■ '■''A: '.' .■ Vi .'. ' 'l'.;i ■•: *■■■ •■ f ■ -vi ' ■ •- i ..'vi. ■■• '>', ' .' " ,'." ;is^ V'''-'! ^f :'■■■■■:■' ■'■. ;*■- '■.■■■ J-'^'- t'.;: ■' m:v'- '•■■ .'■.. K':.' ..-. ■■• .'■■•■* »,' ■" . •- /' . ■'.•'■ ■■ ; ';i'y-:-' ^■:;^-- ■!' > ■ " . • W-\- *■'.! ^^' ■> A ■-■ h ' .■'■ ''. ' ;». ^- . ' ;* ..?v ^y -i^^ X^:. ^: :■>■'. '" ^ .^'" '' • t-F I.;'. ', 34 CAPE JJONAVISTA TO BAOOALIEU ISLAND inlet running about 4) miles to the north-westward and indented with small arms and bays. It is nearly half a mile wide at the entrance, and here has a depth of 80 to 17 fatliums. Until nearly half way from the sea it is enctpnbered | with islets. Immediately within the entrance it opens out to more than three- quarters of a mUe in extent, a portion of it being taken up by Grub island, (an I island 11)6 feet higli, separated from the south-western shore by a very narrow channel ({ fathoms doep^, but arms extend to the north-eastward and eastward. At half a mile north-westward from tlie north-east point of Grub island is tlie I entrance to the main portion of tlie inlet, which is narrowed to two-thirds of a cable by an islet 128 fuut high, and is 7 fathoms deep ; thence the inlet quickly I widens to about 4 cables, but diminishes again towards the inner part, to 2^1 cables, and the depth of water decreases from 6 and 8 fathoms near tlie islet tu| the shallows at its head. Deer harbour head, the north point of entrance, is 400 feet high, and on its east I side clear of danger. Between the head and llobinson point, a mile north-west- j ward from it, tliere are several rocky islets ; the outermost, named Green islet,! is 24 feet high, and the eastern, named Poor Boy, is ^0 feet high. Shallowl ground, with 3 and Si fathoms water on it, extends a short distance southwardi from this latter islet, and broken ground with li fathoms on it, skirts Robinsonj point to the distance out of li cables. Poor Boy Ledge. — A ledge 24 fatlioms under water lies nearly South 2 cablesi from Poor Boy islet ; it is a cable in extent, steep on all sides, and the depth iil its immediate vicinity is 17 to 80 fathoms. To clear it, keep St. Jones islet justi open of Deer harbour head, until down hill is nearly in line with the uorth-ea8t| extremity of Grub island bearing N. by W. ^ W. Big Bock. — A small rocky patcli. Si fathoms under water, and steep-to alll round, lies nearly in the middle of the entrance to Deer harbour between GreenT islet and liig island, with the east end of St. Jones islet in line with Deer harl bour head, bearing E.N.E., and Tea cove point N.N.W. \ W. Crown hill, iiif line with the north-east point of Grub island bearing N. by W. f W., leads east! ward of tke rock; Sophia head, open of Robinson point N. i E., leads westward] and St. Jones islet, open of Deer harbour head, leads southward of the rock. Bis Island. — Big inland, on the south side of the entrance, is 218 feet high, J cables in length N.E. and S.W., and 2 cables in breadth ; as it is separated from the main-land (which is liigher) by only a very narrow channel it is not easiljl distinguished when maluug the harbour. A rock, on which the sea generallij breaks, lies 40 yards olf its north-east point. Tea cove point half a mile northward of Big island, is shelving end steep-tol Between this point, and Poor Boy islet and the shore of Robinson point, tlia distance is under 4i cables ; this is the narrowest part of the entrance to thj harbour: orub Island, about half a mile within Tea cove point, is 4 cables in lengtlj N.E. and S.W., and 2 cables in breadth. Its southern end is its highest part. Bouth-east Arm. — The South-east arm, north of Robinson point, runs bacl E.S.E. three-quarters of a mile, is a ofble wide, and from 12 to 7 fathoms deepi its licad is separated from Birch cove on the sea coast by a low isthmus 2 cableT in breadth. Eastward of Robinson point is a Uttle bay a cable wide wliich ru in to the south-west a cable, and is 7 fathoms deep ; and east of Sophia heaj there is unotlier narrow little bay running in north-east 14 cables. igfortb'eaat Arm, — Sophia head, 257 feet high, separates South-east arm froij SHOAB BAY AND COPPER ISLAND. U North-east arm. The latter riiua in N.E. by E. 4 cables, is 1} cables wide, and has a depth of 7 to 4 fathoms. There is fair anchorage for small vessels in the bay west of Grub island, in from 20 to 7 fathoms water, over a space of 3 cables N.E. and S.W., by 2 cables wide. At the head of this bay is a small arm. 30 yards in breadth, with a depth I of li fathoms, running in N.W. by W. 4 cable^;. Directions. — With a fair wind bring Crown hill in line with the north-einst I point of Grub island, and steer in N. by W. f \V. between Poor Boy ledge and Big rock — Crown hill will soon be lost sight of, being behind the near range — I until the east extreme of Big island is in line with Tea cove point ; then steer N. by E., pass round Grub island, and anchor as convenient. To enter the harbour westward of Big rock, open Sophia head of Robinson I point, and steer in with the head bearing N. i E. until the south end of Poor Boy islet is seen between Green islet and Deer harbour head; then steer about N. by W. f W. in mid'Channel, being careful to avoid the shoal extending from I Robinson point, and when the east point of Big island is in line with Tea cove [point, proceed as before. In working a vessel should enter west of Big rock. If intending to enter the inner part of the inlet, a rock (with 6 feet water on it) hying Ik cables within the entrance, should be avoided by keeping a little to the [southward of the entrance ; the channel is then between Gooseberry islet and a [patch of rocks 6 feet above water, li ca )les northward of it; having passed these, vessel may anchor anywhere in from ^0 to 4 fathoms water, until within half u lile of the head, where the depth is only 1 J fathomti. Two considerable streams |liere run into the inlet, the banks of which dry out a quarter of a mile. BBOAL BAT. — Shoal bay, south-west of Big island, is about 1^ miles deep and narrow ; it is also encumbered with small islets and rocks, open to the east- ^vard, and has consequently nothing to recommend it to seamen. Its north shore consists of steep cliff, and at its head on the south is a bight, about 2 cables deep, kvith 6 and 7 fathoms water over rocky bottom, called Shoal harbour. On the south side of the entrance are the Harbour rocks, 37 feet high, lying nearly 3 pables northward of Thames harbour point ; and a reef (awash) extends 2 cables korth-eastward from the rocks. The passage into the bay between the reef and pouth end of Big island is 3i cables wide. Thames harbour point is separated from Harbour rocks by a channel a cable ride and 2 fathoms deep. This point is the east extreme of a flat island 40 feet jiigh, which is separated from the main land by a channel half a cable wide, diere large fishing beats lie in 2 fathoms water, but the south entrance 1$ dry at aw tide. Goose cove, on the south side of Shoal bay, is nearly 4 cables deep, a cable ^'ide, with 14 to 9 fathoms water,, rocky bottom. The RiffRafls are sbveral rocks Intending IJ cables to the north'-east from the west point of Goose cove ; the Iter rock (awash) bears W. by N. 4i cables from the north extreme of the larbour rocks. Copper Island, iet. — Copper island, south of Thames harbour point, is 2 [ibles in length north and south, broken and 82 feet high, and from its west side |)cks extend in that direction 3 cables ; the most distant is 15 feet above water, a mile W.S.W. from the island a patch of slate rocks extends li cables iroia [le shore; and about S.W. by S. 4^ miles from the island is the north-east point Bull island, on the north side of the entrance to the bay of the same name— - ke intervening coast is bold and rocky. Niagara point, the northern termination s ■•■/! ':.-'-^Ml --■■■"!*'■ ■■■■. ■'■■ -.■'■■... , '■ ■" "*','■'■..■ ■: . -■"■* ' ' - ' . ■'■'• ■ ,'■"', ' ' * ,!■•'■ "■■■' : vl , '... -W*?' iiii CAPE KONAVISTA TO BACOALIEU ISLAND. K :;:, of a ste«p cliff, is rather more than 1^ miles from the north-east point of Bull I island ; and, 1^ miles E. J N. from this point, at a long half mile from the shore, I is a narrow !»-fatliom lodge, '• V ' ■ ■ it 88 CAPE BONAVISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. The flonth-west arm of the cove is too much exposed ftom northward for an anchorage. A fresh-water stream mnning into it ia considered excellent for trout fishing. The shores of Rantem cove are steep-to and well clothed with wood sufficiently large for hoats' masts, and small studding sail booms. There are no inhabitants. OOTmia BAT, zona govs and obafpIiII bat.— These are inlets on the south side of the promontory of Tickle point, the first named being the west- ernmost. They are all open to north-eastward, have very deep water, and afford no shelter, excepting that in Chappie bay (which extends south-westerly about | 8 miles and has an entrance a mile broad) small vessels may anchor in B to 12 fathoms on good ground, under protection of a small island near the southern j sliore, at about two mUes from Mc. Leod point, the east point of the entrance. ■pr«ad«acl« Bay, — Spreadeagle bay, south-eastward of Chappie bay, is ex- posed to north-easterly winds. The depth at the entrance is 16 and 20 fathoms, I which decreases gradually to 7 and 6 fathoms almost close to the shore on each side. Two islands, named North and South Dildo, lie off its eastern point of I entrance, in nearly midway of the channel into Dildo arm ; they are about 60 [ feet high. BXXOO ABBK. — Dildo arm is nearly a mile wide at the entrance, whence it I extends 2i miles in a S.W. by S. direction. Its depth averages 25 to 80 fathoms, except near the southern shore where to some distance out it is not more than 4 to 7 fathoms. A small cove, on the east side of tlie arm just within the entrance,! known as Dildo cove, affords good anchorage in 10 to 7 fathoms, and shelter from | almost all winds. Vessels may enter Dildo arm northward or southward of Dildo islands. If the I latter, they will cross a narrow spit of 5 to 8 fathoms connecting the islands to I the>est point of the arm. Hew Barbour. — ^Nearly two miles north-eastward from Dildo cove is a large I open, but shallow, bay called New harbour. The depth in it is not more than 1)1 feet at low tide, hence it will only receive the smallest class of vessels. A rocl^l spit juts off from its western side about half a mile in a N.N.E. direction. BOFBAUi BAT. — Hopeoll head, which separates New harbour from Hopealll bay, is the extremity of a bold promontory, the shore of which has a depth of 6 to! 10 fathoms at a very moderate distance from it. The head itself rises to thel height of 407 feet, and close off it is a depth of 7 to 14 fathoms. From a berthi off this point the course to Dildo arm is S.W. by S. Hopeall bay is open to northerly winds, and affords no shelter ; hence vesselil seldom anchor in it except when the wind is directly from the land. It is \\\ miles wide at the entrance, and extends about 2i miles in a S. by E. direction.! From 22 and 19 fathoms, midway between the points of entrance, the depthl gradually decretises to 9 and 3 fathoms off the beach at its extremity. Hopeall island, an islet off the east point of Hopeall bay, is about one-f.iird oil a mile long in a N.N.E. 4 E. direction, 76 feet liifrh. and very narrow. A rodl awash, lies off its eastern side. A large vessi-l sliould iilways pass this island oii| its west side, the channel eastward of it being only 2 or 3 fathoms deep. Or««na Harbour .-^Greens harbour, immediately eastward of Hopeall si land, is nearly two miles long in a S. i W. direction, and about three-quarten of a mile broad. Vessels anchor in it in 10 to 7 fathoms, but exposed to northerIi| winds. The west point of the bay has rocks under water at its extremity. WiTXasa BAT.— Witless bay is the large bay north-eastward from Green HEARTS' CONTENT. to liarbour ; it is 2) mileo in extent E.N.E. nnd W.8 W., About a mile deep, and i« open to northerly and westerly windH. Tlio sonndiiigs in it am 1.1 to 8 fathomji, over rock and ;^avel, and the ground does not hold well ; hence vessels seldom enter it. A huge rock 110 feet high, named Red rock, lies at its entrance at ' Rliort distance from its northern shore ; and, three-quarters of a mile S. ^ W . from this is a rock 4 feet under water, known as the Witless rock, from which the middle point of the bay is distant 4 cables in a S. i W. (westeHy) direction. Black rock, a patch of fathoms, and with 16 fathoms close to it, lies rather more than half a mile from Black point, the west extremity of the bay, in n N.W. by W. i W. direction ; this point has also sunken rooks extending from it to some distance seaward, — consequently a wide berth should bo given it when I passing. Black rock may be cleared on its east or west sides by bringing the ■ first summit within Hopeall head open on either side of Hopenll island and the puiddle point of Witless bay, well open of Black point, leads north of it. Bboal Bay. — At about a mile northward from Witloss bay i^ Sluml bay, a small lexposed anchorage of 3 to n fathoms, having in front of it a sunken patch of 1^ Ifatiioms. It is open to north-westerly winds, and its south-western point has rocks under water extending from it a short distance. Bearts' BoUcht Bay. — From Shoal bay the coast trends .S^ miles in a north {easterly direction to a bay about half a mile in extent known by the name of learts' Delight. A projecting point about midway bears the name of Long point ; this is a bold projection, with a depth of 16 fathom.4 almost close to it. ^ud, near the bay are some rocks above and under water at a very moderate distance from the shore. Hearts' Delight has a depth of 7 to 3 fathoms, is ex- posed to north-westerly winds, and is seldom entered except by the small vessels of the country. It has a population numbering about 250. At about half a mile from the west point of Hearta' Delight, in a north-westerly irection, there is a small patch of 3i fathoms, known as South rock. Between It and the nearest land is a depth of 8 fathoms. From it Shuffle-board appears \n line with Gannet point bearing N.E. by E. (easterly) and Long point bears 3.W. by W. i W. distant lA miles. Hearts' Boaire Bay. — About 2i miles north-eastward from Hearts' Delight is Ihe bay of Hearts' Desire, an open roadstead facing N.N.E., in which vessels tometimes anchor in 14 to 5 fathoms but only when the wind is from the land. pChe coast between is moderately bold, with sunken rocks off it in places. A 5-fathom patch, 14 miles W. by N.i N. from the westprn point of Hearts' )esire, is known as the Gannet rock. Close to it on all Bi>~ j . deep water, and Ispecially on its western side, wh^'uce the lead drops almost at once into 86 ithoms ; on its eastern side the depth is 20 fathoms. From it Long point bears ^.W. distant 3,*^ miles. Sugar-loaf point, in line with the Shuffle-board .E. by E., leads eastward of it ; ihe first house within the south head of Hearts' )elight open of Norther head If u,ds westward ; Gannet point E.S.E. leads north, [ud the same point E. by S. leads southward of it. RBABTB' OO W T BW T. — From the bay of Hearts' Desire the coast trends f.E. by E. about 4} miles to that of Hearts' Content, and is bold with a depth about 6 fathoms at a very moderate distance from it. Shuffle-board, a bold liffy point 1} miles from the head of Hearts' Desire bay, rises to the height of \l2 feet, and is very steep, the depth close to It being 25 fathoms. Tlie entrance to Hearts' Content harbour is 4 cables wido between Norther uiiit on the east, and Souther point on the west. Thence it runs iu 1^ milee^ WW • ■ • ' vl ' 4' . '■ ■ '■■■ ..i 40 CAPE UONAVISTA TO BACCALIEU ISLAND. * and opens out in the middle to more than three-quarters of a miio, with sonndingn varying from 20 to 7 fathoms ; tlie town lies along the eastern shore, and has in its rear a large lake, behind which Mizen hill rises to the hoi<{ht of ft70 feet. Hearts' Content bay is a very good harbonr capable of receiving the largest vessels. The best anchorage is off its northern shore in 1-2 to 7 i fathoms, mud and gravel, northward of the church. When entering keep in mid-channel, the points on each side of the entrance being foul. The b ' " exposed to northerly winds, and is almost completely sheltered from all oth The shore end of the Atlantic Telegraph cable passes 150 yards west of Norther point, on the east* side of the entrance to the harbour ; and from thib spot two beacons (over the southern cove of the harbour) will be seen in line S. by W. ; these beacons mark the direction of the cable's first course into the harbour. When the ^''hite beacon on the eastern shore is in line with the School house the cable commences to curr^e to the eastward, and continues to do so until the church tower is in line with the northern pier, on the shore under the church ; on this line the Atlantic cable approaches the shore within a cable, and thence to the land under the Telegraph office. Vessels intending to anchor should carefully avoid the line indicated above, by I anchoring either east of the line of the southern beacons, and north of the line where the east beacon (appearing midway between the School house and the house next south of it) bears S.E. i E. ; or by anchorir )uth of the lino where the telegraph station flag (on with a whitewashed on the shore) bears S.E. by E., as on this latter line it is intended to phicc . .-.ond telegraph cable. It is high water here, full and change, at 7h. 30m. ; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2i feet. The church is considered to be iii lat. 47^ 52' 35" N., long. 53° 22' 14" \V. White Bock. — In nearly midway of the entrance to Hearts' Content, but nearer I the northern shore, is the White rock, a small patch of 6 fathoms water. It lies I with the Sugar loaf (a hill close to the sea, 4j miles N.E. by E. from Hearts'! Content, and 416 feet liigh) bearing N.E. by E. ^ E. ; Norther point, the north I head of Hearts' Content, S. by E. (southerly) 7 cables nearly ; and Lousey rock I (off the south head of Hearts' Content) S.W. J S. half a mile. The Sugar-loafI well open of the south head of New Perlican N.E. by E. ^ E. leails westward ofl it; and Hearts' Content church open of Norther point S.S.E. J E. leads south- f ward of it. Fitters Cove, 2i miles north-eastward from Hearts' Content, is a small openl bay 7 to 3 fathoms deep. It is exposed to wind«» between North and N.E. xntW PBBUCAir. — The bay of New Perlican is immediately eastward ofl Fitters cove, being divided from it by a projecting point of land whose oxtromityl is known by the name of Bloody point. The two bays are bounded by Jeansl head on the east, and Garlep point on the west ; each is bold laud, with a depth! of 10 fathoms almost close to it. The depth in New Perlican harbour is s to :i l'itthoni;i, the latter being in tlwl immediate vicinity of the village. At its eutnince, between the outer points, it lil about tliree-quarters of a mile wide, whence it narrows to li cables in its innerl part. Although the shores are bold, a vessel entering should maintain a midf channel course as much as posiuble ; when under Bloody point the anchor mayl be cast in 9 to 7 fathoms. The anchorage is tolerably good and the shelterl nearly land-locked. A rocky patch (4 feet under water) lies near the head of the| harbour, off the eastern shore. height HANTS HARBOUR AND SEAL COVE. Ac. 4i Turks Oot«, *o. — The oouut at about 1} miles north -eastward from Now Perliean trends inwards and forms an open bay known as Turks covo, the depth in whicli is Itt to L fathoms. The rocky bold coast continues thence a milie in the same direction to Sugar-loaf hill, a liill cloi^e to the sea and 415 feut high ; and, on the north-east side of this is Sillee cove, a little inlet, which is about half a mile in extent and can only receive boats or very small vessels. From Sillee cove the coast trends E.N.E. 4 miles to Hants head, and is every- where steep and rocky. It curves slightly northward, and being of almost uniform height presents no distinguishing features ; the part that projects most to sea- ward is known as Kings bead. The hill over Hants harbour head is 337 feet high. KAirra BAXBOVB. — Hants harbour, a mile eastward of Kings head is 1) cables wide, 3 cables di^ep. and open to north-eastward. Its west point is low and rocky, with shallow patches extending from it three-quarters of a mile in a N.E. by E. direction. During and after gales a heavy sea sets into the bay causing an under tow at the north-east side, but a few vessels manage to lie here in safety during winter. To enter the harbour steer for the church bearing S.W. \ W. between the tail of the bank and the Riff Raffs a reef subsequently described ; — the latter under ordinary circumstances will be seen brciiking. When Seal rock (off Seal cove point) is on with Seal point, steer alxjut S. ^ W. for the highest coast hill between the harbour and Seal cove, to avoid the shoal which runs out from the west point of entrance ; when Seal rock is on with Salvage point, bring the church to bear W. by S. i S. (appearing one-third across the entrance) and enter the harbour in mid-channel. Anchor near the west shore in 4 fathoms water. Seal Cove. — Seal cove, 2 miles E. ^ N. from Hants harbour, is about half a mile deep and affords no shelter. The soundings in it are B to 6 fathoms. Its west point is steep and rocky on its northern side, but shelves to the eastward witli shoal water off it. 8alvag« Point. — From Seal cove to the extremity of Salvage point the coast trends E. by N. about 3i miles, and is rocky aud dangerous. The point itself ia a rugged beach of stones around what appears to be a steep gravel cliff, behind which the hills rise to the height of 400 or 500 feet ; a reef extends from it a con- siderable distance, and is immediately succeeded by a depth of about 6 fathoms. The coast between Hants head (or rather Kings head) and Salvage point, ia extremely dangerous, on account of outlying reefs ; it should consequently have a berth of at least 2 miles. As there is generally deep water at a very short distance from these rocks, and the sea does not always break over them and thereby show their position, more than ordinary care should be exercised when in their vicinity. The following, reckoning from eastward, are the principal dangers : — Salvage Bocks. — These, consisting chiefly of a patch 5i feet under water, lie about Ij miles N.E. ^ N. from Salvage point ; at a short distance northward and north-eastward from them is a depth of 30 to 32 fathoms, and between them and the point 12 to 6 fathoms. EiffBaffs.— The Riff Raffs, 4 cables in length N.E. and S.W., and half a cable in breadth, is 3 feet under water. From the north end of this reef Seal cove point bears S. f E. distant one mile, and the west point of Hants harbour S.W. by W. f W. lr% miles. Knife Bock. — The Knife rock, with 4 fathoms on it, and having a depth of "*> ■■''J; r •:.; f |.':^- *'■'■.' -4-i CAPK noNAVIH'lA To KACCAIilKU ISLAND to 11 fiithoTOB ol()8o-to arfMinil it, lios tbr«)«-(iui»rt«irH of n iriilo W.N.W. from Uio IlilV ItiiflM, with tho west pnjiit of IIimtH liarbour bearing S.S.W. § W. disLiuit IJ inilos. HtiHt» Hiirhonr Uovk.—WxnU Harbour rock, 'i feot under wator, licis with Seal covo point boaring S.li. i V,. distant 'H iniUis, and Kings head S.W. by W \ W. BUn'k tlock, — Block rock, a patch of 4} fatlionia, lioa half a mile south of HnntH harbc nr rock, with tho west point of Hautti harbour bearing S. i| Wv dis- tant niue-tontlis of a milo. 'Tail of tho Bank. — Tha Tail of tho Bank, fathoms under water, lies with Salvage point bearing S.E. by E. i E., and tho west point of Hants harbour S.S.W. 'i W. distant 2t'o miles. Thence, in a S.W. by W. § W. direction iVo "lilus i.4 Hants harbour rock, and at l^"o miles farther on is Arthur rock; between the latter arc several other rocks with li to 7 fathoms water on them, and all dangerous with a moderate sea. Arthur rock, with one fathom on it. is 4 cables from the shore, with tho Sugar-loaf bearing S.W. by \V. and just open, and Hants harbour head S.E. by E. distant 5i cables. Tho depth increases a few yards seaward of the outer cdgo of tho rocks wo hav« just described to 80 fathoms, ar.d at a short distance to 100 fathoms ; c6n- BOquontly tho lead is no guide when near them. To avoid all these reefs on their iinrth aide, vessels must not upproaoh the coa&t nearer than to have Grates point boar E. by S. ; and, on their went side, the Sugar-loaf hill should be kept well open of Kings liead bearing S.W. J W. OLD PBSUCAN. — From Salvage point the coast trends southerly and easterly about 5J miles to Old Porlican bay, tlio direct bearing between being E. by S. J S. The bay is of limited extent and faces north-westward. Its northoru point, named Skerwiuk, is steep and has a rock above water off it at about a cable from its northern side, close to which is a depth of 5 and fathoms. And, in the centre of the bay is an island, 115 feet high, half a mile in diameter and nearly round, v^hich is connected to tho shore eastward of it by a shallow- flat only suflioicntly under water to permit the passa-^e of boats. Southward of Uiia island uniall vessels anchor during suimner in 8 K) 5 fathoms, but exposed to a heavy swell when tho wind bl.'vs strongly from north eastward to north-west- ward. When entering tho bay give tho i&liimi a berth of 2 cables, to avoid tho shallow ground extending from it, and anchor witli its extremes bearing N.W. by N. and N.E. The ground is said to hold badly ; henco tho harbour is safe only in fine weather. It is high water iiero, full and change at Oh. 4(lni.; springs riso ,'U foot. Tho church is in lat. 48^^ 4' 47" N., long, ^r 0' 0" W. From Old Terlican bay tho coast trends N.E. by E. J E. RJ miles to Grates point (usually considered to bo tho southoin boundary of Trinity bay) and is irregular in outline, fonning several small bays; speaking gonernllv, it is bold, and safe to approach to a moderate distnnco. At about a mile from Skerwink point, and a quarter of a mile from the shore, there is a reof under water ; and, 2 miles from this is Sgeir islet, 18 feet high, f.nd at a short distance from tho land. IJreakhoart point, ft mile north-eastward from Sgeir islimd, is dangerous to approach, as a long rocf extends from it in a northerly direction ; between this point and point Grates, one mile further eastward, the land bonds in and forms a email bay in which boats sometimes auehor with oil-shore winds. A rock off the north-eabt side of point Grates is 25 feet high. Martiri l.-dnf, .fc— The sea around Grates point is generally di op, tho lead droppini howevei 1 <)i mil] and 20 breaker sides is | N.E. bj At po| point of distancd which id establish and is i'rom irregulal short dii BAO< describe Trinity BACCAIJEU ISLAND AND LIGHT. 48 dropping into 100 fnthomH at a mile dne North from it ; thia great depth is not however found eastward of it, as a bank of 30 to 100 fathoms extends from it Ifii miles in an East direction. Upon this bank are several patches of 7 to 15 and 20 fathoms ; of these, Martins ledge (7 fathoris) shows itself sometimes by breakers, — ^it lies iVo miles E. by N. I N. from the point, and close to it on all sides is a depth of 60 to 00 fathoms. A 6-fathom patch also lies half a mile N.E. by E. from the same point. At point Grates the coast turns sharply southward and then eastward to a point off which are several rocks high out of water ; the wlu^le comprised in a distance of about a mile in a S.E. i E. direction. In the bay thus formed, which is open and exposed to north-easterly gales, there are numerous fishing estabUshments. The coast then turns S.S.E. for about 1{ miles to Red head, and is high and steep ; off it, at about midwi^y^ there is a rock 10 feet high. From Red head it trends S. i W. ahout 3 miles to Split point, and forms by its irregularities several small bays. Split point is very bold, with a depth at a very short distance from it of 40 to 50 fathoms ; tlie hill over it is 580 feet high. BACCAiuilV xSLAXai) and Xdght. — Baccalieu island, 2 miles off the const described in the last two paragraphs (the extremity of the peninsula separating Trinity and Conception bays) is 3 miles in length, and about three-quarters of a mile in breadth. Its northern point lias a reef above and under water, extending from it about 2 cables. With this exception and the reefs extending a cable from its south and south-west points, its shores are steep and almost free from sunken dangers. An islet lies close off its western side. A landing upon it can only be accomplished in a few places. The lighthouse, half a mile within the northern end of the island, consists of a brick building, which exhibits at o30 feet above high water a white light showing a flash every 20 secondt, which may be seen in clear weather at the distance of 28 miles ; it is however hidden from the observer when the southern end of the island bears N.N.E. k E., and is distant less tlian 8 miles. The keeper's dwelling is a detached square white building with a red roof. The light-tower is 6 miles S.E. from Grates point, and is con- sidered to be in lat. 48' 8' 51" N., long. 62° 47' 50" W. The channel between Baccalieu island and the coast westward of it is very deep, and contains no known rocks sufficiently near the surface to endanger a vessel, provided a mid-channel coUa te ^<^ maintained as much as possible. The following are the principal shallow pat . > s in the channel and in the vicinity of tlie island : — Wall iZocA.— The Wall, a rock of 5 fathoms, lies \^\ miles N.W. ^ N. from the south-west point of Baccalieu island, and about three-quarters of a mile N.E. by E. f E. from the extremity of Split point. It has a depth of 10 to 10 fathoms close to it on all sides, and upon it the sea frequently breaks. Inner Collins. — The Inner Collins, a ledge of 15 fathoms with 40 to 30 fathoms close to it, lies l^V miles N.W. 4 W. from the lighthouse on Baccalieu island. I'pon this the sea has been observed to break in very heavy weather. Outer Collins. — The Outer Collins, with 1(J fathoms ovei* it, is distant 1 ^'^ miles I^.E. by N. from the lighthouse on Baccalieu island. Close to it on all sides is a deptli of 30 to 40 ti\thoma. 1 ■' . ' ■»■- ■f.-;: !;•■.,;■, f. ■ ■■-! 'i ■' ■tf .• ■ 4 • i 4t BAOCALIEU ISLAND TO CAPE ST. FKANCIS- CONCEPTION BAY, &c. Conception bay is bounded on the north side by Baccaliea island and on the south side by cape St. Francif ,nich bear from each other S.S.W. ^ W. and N.N.E. § E. distant 18 miles. From a position midway between these two, the bay has a general direction of W.S.W. [ . for about 38 miles, and is 11 miles wide throughout nearly its whole extent, gradually tapering to a point at its southern extremity. It is remarkable that all its inlets, and they are very numerous, are on its western side, the eastern coast being regular in outUne and of almost uniform height. The depth in its centre is considerably over 100 fathoms. . 'Slack Oove. — From Split point, wliich is a very bold point with deep water in its inMnediate vicinity, the coast treiids West about 2 miles to a bold projecting penin- Biua, Imo^n as Bay Verd head, the inner part of which is of moderate height ; hence 'from a distance the peninsula appears to be an island. Upon this lower lanS are several houses. The bay which tliia headland forms with the coaat eastward of it is known as Black cove ; it is exposed to south-eastward and is not a safe anchorage. Bay Verd Cov«. — Bay Verd cove, on the western side of the headland just mentioned, is of very limited extent, and affords but indifferent shelter, being open to southward and south-westward, from which direction heavy seas are sent in when the wind prevails with strengih. The entrance is not more than a cable across, and vessels ride in 5 fathoms at about half a cable from the head of tho cove, with one anchor out astern and another fast on shore ahead. There is room for only seven or eight small vessels to ride even in tliis manner ; notwith- standing wliich it is a iishing station of considerable resort. Wood and water are obtained with diflBculty. There is no known hidden danger in the entrance or in the vicinity of tlio cove. The locality of Bay Verd cove is easily recognised by Baccalieu island and Split point. Bay Verd head also serves as a point of recognition. Bay Verd head. Split point, and BaccaUeu island appear prominent bluli' land, and are very similar in appearance when soen from southward. Oull Island Cov*^ *o. — Fiom Bay Verd cove the coast trends northward and westward about 2i miles to liow point, on the north side of which is luttle cove, an anchorage for very small vessels but exposed to eastward. From this point to Flamborough head, a black steep projecting point, tho cc ast continnes in a south-westerly direction iii miles, and is steep with deep water at a moderate distance from it. Idaml con; IJ miles south-westward from Flamborough .' "ad, is an open anchorage, without shelter from easterly winds ;— tho land behind tlie church rises to tho height of 100 feot. DcvU'n Point cove, 2 mikis I'lom Island cove, is also an exposed anchorage of no impoitancc. Joir cave, about 1^ miles from Devil's Point cove, is also exposed to easterly wi.'.ds, and safe only WESTERN BAY. 45 daring veiy fine weather ; when appraaching it from northward care is required to avoid a bank of 12 to 18 feet which extends a short distance from the land on its eastern side. Oull Island cove, about a mile beyond Job cove, has an islet a* its entrance, and is exposed to eastward. Northern hay, a large open bay, on J mile beyond Gull Island cove, has 10 fathoms water at its entrance, and aiiords no shelter. From this bay to Ochre Pit cove, the coast trends about a mile in a southerly direction ; this, like those previously described, is an open roadstead, and safe only while the wind is from the land. None of these coves can receive any but very small vessels ; they are seldom entered except by the small coasting craft. Joh Bock. — ^Vessels nmning down the coast from northward will sometimes observe breakers on Job rock, a small rocky patch about a mile from tlie land in tlie direction of S.E. by E. i E. from Gull island, from which it is distant li miles. It is 5 fathoms under water ; between it and the shore is a depth of 12 fatlioms, and close to its eastern, southern and western sides is a depth of about 25 fathoms. Western Bay. — Western bay is formed on its southern side by a projecting point known as the Head, or Western bay head, which is distant about 9 miles from Flamborough head and about lOi miles from the south end of Baccalieu island in a W.S.W. direction ; and it is a bold cliffy point, rising to the height-of 185 feet. The bay is about a mile in extent and exposed to eastward and nolQi'- eastward, upon wliich account vessels should not enter far when the wind|-is trSm that quarter. Vessels usually anchor in the entrance in 15 or 16 fathoms 'water ; fiu-ther in, the depth is about 6 fathoms. * In midway of tlie entiimce to Western bay thero is a 6-fathom rock known as the Puddy rock. It lies half a mile N.E. ^ E. from the Head, and has close to it on all sides a deptli of about 15 fathoms. At about a mile sDiith-westward from Western bay head is Bradley cove, and three-quarters of a mile further on Adam aove ; both open anchorages, of little value to shipping. Broad cove, 1 J miles from .Adam cove, is more extensive than either, but is equally unsafe when the wind is from eastward. Vessels occasionally anchor ofif this part of the coast in 10 to 15 fathoms, but always in such a manner that they can sUp away easily if an easterly wind comes on with any strength. iduUy Cove, on the south side of Broad cove head ; Percy cove, 2i miles more to the south-westward ; and Hulmon cove, H miles further on, are all exposed anchorages, which should be used only by boats. Salmon cove head is high and steep. Between Percy and Salmon coves, at half a mile from the former and about the same distance from the coast, there is a rock 60 feet high, named Ochre Pit, which has a depth close to it all round of about 12 fathoms. And, N.E. by E. nearly a mile from this, there is a rock under water at about 2 cables from the land. Salmon covo head is distant 14 miles N.W. by W. J W. from cape St. Francis, on the east side of Conception bay. From it the land trends W.S.W. 3 miles to Crockers point, on the north side of the entrance to Carbonear bay ; the coast between is steep, in places cliff, and the hills rise to the height of 490 feet. Several small lishing villages -ire on this shore — at the entrances of three ravines; the principal ai-e Clements, Freshwater, and Crockers. Oif this part of the coast are several small islets aud rocks. The Folly rook» It '. 4A BACCALIEU ISLAND TO CAPE ST. FlUNCIS. is a small ridge above water, a short half mile south of Salmon Cove head, and about half a cable from the shore ; M(ul rock is small, above water, and lies H cables eastward of the Harton rocks of Clements cove. A small chain of rocks or islets form the south side of Clements cove, and terminate in a rock awash at low water; they are known as the Harton rocks, and separate Clements from Freshwater cove. Bradley rock is small and above water ; it lies nearly midway between the extremity of Harton rocks and Maiden island, a little with- out the line of direction. ' Maiden Island is 49 feet high, but being small and similar in appearance to the cUflfs of the coast, is not easily distinguished. Half-way between it and Crockers point are some rocks above water, two-thirds of a cable from the shore. Crackers Cove immediately north of Crockers point (the north side of entrance to Carbonear bay) is suitable only for boats. Bocks and shallow water extend a cable eastward from the point. Carhonear Iiland. — Carbonear island is 6 cables in length east and west, 2 cables in breadth, 102 feet high, anu slopes to the westward. Its coast id mostly cliflf. OABBOmSAR BAT. — Carbonear bay is distant about 26 miles S.W. by W. f W. from Baccalieu island, is 2| miles deep in a W.N.W. direction, and three* qujEirters of a mile wide, with bold shores, except at the head, where it shoals gradually to a shingle beach. The entrance is easily recognised by the island off it, and by Saddle hill, 503 feet high (the most remarkable land seen from sea-' ward) immediately south of it. The anchorage is off the north shore, in 7 to 10 fathoms, sand; although open to the sea, which rolls in heavily with easterly gales, many vessels of about 100 tons winter in safety at the wharves of the town. The centre and soutli side of the bay is exposed to the sea and should be avoided. Tliere are no dangers in entering Carbonear bay from northward in ordinary weather, except those off the coast between Salmon head and Crockers point, which are all visibld and avoided by keeping Broad cove head open of FoUy rocks. During heavy seas from eastward the Kane rock and Saucy Joe break occasionally'. The Knne, with fathoms water on it, lies in the entrance of the bay, with Grace islands light just open of the north-east point of Carbonear island, S. J W., and Maiden island, N.W. by W. \ W., 7 cables. The Saucy Joe, with 11 fathoms on it, lies with Eastern rock (Grace islands) just over the break in the north-east end of Carbonear island bearing South ; it is distant 3 cables from Carbonear island. Between Carbonear island and Mosquito point, the south point of Carbonear harbour, the distance is half a mile, but the channel is narrowed to one cable by sunken rocks extending froir the island and point. To steer through in 4 fathoms water, keep the Haypuk on Fer ^her point (Harbour Grace) just shut in with the cliff of Old Sow point, bearing S. by \V. J W. Mosquito Cove. — Mosquito cove, south of Carbonear bay, is formed on the south side by a bold point, known as Old Sow point. It is about 4 cables wide at the entrance, and H cables deep. The water shoals gradually to its head, and it affords no shelter nor safe anchorage ; hence it is seldom entered by shipping. BARBOUR GBAOB. — The extremity of Old Sow point, on the north side of the entrance to Harbour Grace, is shelving rock at the base of small cliffs; — the latter increase in height to 70 feet at a short distance westward of the point, and maintain the same elevation for 1\ miles towards Harbour Grace; the hills over HAKBOUR GRACE. them are 285 feet high. Frum the tennination of the cliffs to the harbour light, a distance of 1;^ miles, the coast is low with rocks extending off nearly a cable. At about 80 yards off Old Sow point there is a small rock above water called Old Sow rock. At about three-quarters of a mile westward of Old Sow point, and 00 yards from the shore, there is a rock named Long Harry ; it is 72 feei; high, although its diameter is small. And, at a third of a mile S.S.W. from Long Harry rock is another small rock, 63 feet high, known aa the Salvage rook, which has deep water around it, but in a heavy sea it breaks a third of a cable inside it. Feather Point, on the south side of entrance to Harbour Qn/Ase, is the termi- nation of a ridge of hills over the south side of the harbour. The extremity of the point is a mass of slate just disconnected by a rent from the main body of the point, and called the Haypuk. Grace Island* and Ugbt. — Grace islands, off Feather point, are a cluster of small islets and rocks covering a space of about three-quarters of a mile in the direction of the point, by a third of a mile in breadth. The principal islet is 105 feet high, and on the western islet is a summer fishing village. Between one and 2 cables to the north-east of the islands are other islets or rocks, the outer of which is called Eastern rock ; beyond these is rocky ground with 4 fathoms water on it, known as the White rock, on which the eea breaks with great violence. At 2 cables W.N.W. from the south end of Grace islands are the Ragged rocks, above water. Between these aud the shallow ground extending from Feather point there is a clmnnel 2 cables wide and 3 to 4 fathoms deep, which should not be attempted by strangers, tliere being no good leading mark for it. The north-easternmost Grace island is very steep and accessible only by ladders in fine weiither. The lighthouse on it consists of a square building 35 feet high, having a roof painted red and white in stripes. It shows, at 151 feet above the sea, a light revolvimj every half minute, visible at the distance of 18 miles, between the bearings from seaward of N.N.E. and S.S.W. Two white flashen and one red /lash appear successively. Its geographical position is lat. 47° 42' 45" N., long. 53" 8' 11" W. From a line between Old Sow and Feather points, Harbour Grace runs westward 4i miles, with a breadth of 1^ miles at the entrance to a third of a mile at its head, the hills on either side reaching 500 feet above the sea. At 6 cables eastward of tlie harbour lights, a bar runs across the harbour ; the greatest depth on this bar is 24 feet, and tlie least depth 9 feet, the latter being over a boulder bank forming the soutli side of the main channel, — between the bank and south shore the depth is 13 feet. In heavy weather the sea breaks on the shoal part of the bar, but seldom or ever in the 24-foot channel. The depth of 30 fathoms at the entrance of the harbour decreases to 10 fathoms at 2 cables from the bar ; witlun the bar the depth is to 4 fathoms to the head of the harbour. Harbour Lights. — At the outer end of Point of Beach, which is a shingle point on the north side of the harbour, are two fiiced lights placed vertically ; one 33 feet high, the other 40 feet high, visible 3 and 11 miles. Both lights are from gas. Vessels entering Harbour Grace should give Eastern rock (Grace islands) a berth of 3 cables, by keeping the dome of the church (Roman Catholic building) at the east end of the town open north of Salvage rock, and steer in mid- channel, ': •'•/( ■:.v. ■•} ■ 48 BACGALIJiU ISIiAND TO CAPE ST. lUANCIS. pasfiing oither north or south of tlio latter. To cross the bar in the deepest watef bring tho lightlioiiso on Point of licach W. ^ N. and in lino with Ship head — a hill !)8 feet high on tho samo Hhore a Jong niilo beyond it. When clearing tho bar, and tho dome of tho church at tho cast end of the town is in line witli Oreeu hill (44') feet high) do not shut in tho point oast of Long Harry with that rock, but edge southward to avoid tho shore bank east of Poiut of Beach ; this point is steep-to on its south side. At night run in with the lights at Point of Beach W. i S., until Grace islands light bears about S.K. ; then steer southward — to avoid Salvage rock — until the Point of Beach lights bear W. i N., then proceed as before. Having passed the lights, anchor where convenient in R to 9 fathoms water, mud. The harbour is safe throughout nearly the whole of its extent ; the best anchorage is, however, on tho north shore, as at times the sea ia felt on the south. The worst winds are from westward, and blow occasionally with much force. Vessels working in may stand to either shore to a prudcut distance until up to tho bar. Brennau hill (3M2 feet higli, and soutliward of Green hill) open east- ward of the church at tho east end of the town, leads eastward of the bar ; and Green hill open westward of the samo church leads westward of the bar. When crossing tho bar the point cast of Long Harry should not be shut in with thot rock, and short tacks should be made between this line and tiie line of the lead- ing marks until Green hill is seen westward of the church, when the boai'd to the southward may bo prolonged. There is uo tidal stream in Harbour Grace to assist a vessel either in or out. It is high water at Harbour Grace, full and change, at 7h. 26m. ; springs rise 44 feet, neaps 3 feet. Next to St. John's, tho town of Harbour Grace is the largest town in New- foundland. In 1857 it liad a population of 12,000. Supplies of all kinds required by shipping can be obtained there. A patent slip has been established about half way down tho harbour, on the northern shore. , Bryants Cove. — Bryants cove on the soutli-west side of Feather point, is about ;) cables in extent, and has a depth of 10 to 3 i fathoms ; it is however open to seaward and affords no shelter. In nearly its centre are sovnral patches of rock.H that <',ovor at Imlf tide, \\ liich may be cleared on the south side bv bringing a conspicuous liili up the valley open southward of the steep fall of the north shore of the inner part of the bay, bearing W. i N. In this valley (formed between the ridge of hills on the south side of Harbour Grace and those on tlie north shore of Spaniards bay) are several lakes and bogs. Bryants covo affords excellent fishing, but is a very bad anchorage. Vessels entering keep along its southern shore at a moderate distance, it being rocky, anil anchor in 4i fathoms westward of the Suuker, the rocky patch in the middle of the harbour. This rocky patch is 2 foot above water at low tide, and tliere is a channel on all sides of it , that southward of it is the best. Spare point, ou tlie .south side of IJryiiuts covo has several detached rocks above water near it, three cables from which is a depth of 10 fathoms. From tliis point a cliily coast, with hills over it 500 feet high, trends W.S.W. i miles to Island covo (a small rocky bight fronted by an islet) on the north side of the entrance to Spaniards bay. SFANlARSB BAY. — Spaniards bay is a mile wide, and runs Hi miles to tho westward, with a depth in niid-cluinnel of 40 to "^(l fallioms. Itw north shore is clear of danger. The southern shore is exposed to Iho heavy sea whicli sets iu ipnngs nse HAY ROBERTS, &o. 40 [with easterly gales, and its eastern part has several rocks extending a cable from I il ; farther in, the water is slioal to the same distance off, and at the head of the bay to nearly 2 cables. (Ircen point, at the head of Spaniards bay, is 112 feet high. The only safe liinclioraj^'e in the bay is off the north shore northward of this point, in 4 to 8 fa- tlionis water ; when rnnning for this, vessels must keep Green point westward of S.W. to avoid a shoal patch with Ij fathoms on it, lying with the north church N.N.W., south cluirch W. i S., and Green point S. by W. It is high wator I here, full and change, at 7h. 45m. ; springs rise 4^ feet, neaps '•) feet. Mad Point and Booka.—Mad point, on the south side of the entrance to I Spaniards bay, is the eastern termination of a peninsula 4 miles in length and 4 cables in breadtli, which separates the bay from Bay Roberts. The rocks, above water and extending eastward about two cables from the northern part of the point, are known as the M