7//y c /» ■/• u LOWER ST. L ITfe SCENERI, MIVIGIITIOII ti COMMEOCL "'ORMING A €0in.E11 mVRlST 8 GVIDB. HV DB. W. J. AKDEBSOH, L.B.0.8.B --'•aWCni QUEBEC: PBTNTED AT TAK « • • • • • • V ■ » • i:^ ^3 • 1 • • • • • • • • • * • • • • • • • • • • • THK LOWER ST. LAWRENCE, ITS SCENERY, NAVIGATION AND COMMERCE. A generation still exists which can look back to the palmy days of the good ship Unicorn, and her genial and experienced com- mander, Captain Walter Douglas. The Uni- corn was the pioneer of the Cunard fleet to Halifax, and after accomplishing the first voyage, proceeded to take her place on the route from Quebec to Pictou, which she held for several years, aided occasionally by the Margaret, The Unicorn was intended to be the connecting link between the ocean line to Halifax and Canada. The Canadian mails and passengers were carried immediately on arrival at Halifdx, by express overland to Pictou, where being transferred to the Uni- corn, they were transported to Quebec, on the average in fifty-two hours, there being no a2 51338 stoppage at any of the intermediate ports. The accommodations of the Unicorn were, what would even now be called first-class, but her days were too bright and good to last, and through the influence of the late Sir Samuel Cunard, then exercising supreme power in these matters, and who always showed him- self an uncompromising foe of steam naviga- tion on the St. Lawrence, the Unicorn was at length withdrawn, and Quebec for some time thereafter deprived of the advantage of steam communication with the Maritime Provinces. Though I have first referred to the Unicorn, it may be well to say here, that the Royal WHliam, built and owned in Quebec, and commanded by Captain McDougall, was the pioneer steamer of the Lower Saint Lawrence. She, however, could scarcely be said to have tested its commercial advantages, as she was soon sold and sailed under the Spanish flag. Bye and bye, the Canadian Government, having come into possession of the Baby tug steamers Queen Victoria and Napoleon^ and the despatch boat Ladi/ Head, and being im- pressed with the necessity of establishing inter-provincial communication, decided on placing one of these boats, the Lady Head, to run fortnightly betw^een Quebec and Pictou, calling at Father Point, Graspe Basin, Perce, Paspebiac, Dalhousie, Chatham and Shediac. The Government was fortunate in the choice of a Commander, having secured the services of Captain William Davison, whose long ex- perience made him perfectly at home in the Gulf. The Lady Head, having been built as a Government despatch boat, was little suited for carrying passengers, and had little else to commend her than her strength and the great power of her engines. The passengers also felt that in Captain Davison they had a Com- mander who, though not possessing the polish of Captain Douglas, had all his other good qualities as a seaman, in an eminent degree, and that he could not be exceeded in caution in navigating the ship, or in attention to the comfort of the passengers, who, though occa- sionally subjected to the inconvenience of an over-crowded cabin, thought that this was, to a certain extent, counterbalanced by their confidence in the good ship and the expe- rienced commander. But the time came at last when the trade of the Gulf loudly de- manded increased accommodation, and after some well meant, but abortive attempts, the matter was taken in hand by the present *• Gulf-Ports Steam Navigation Company," who have gradually succeeded in bringing up their arrangements almost to the requirements of the time. A :'> 9 The Unicorn, running direct between Que- bec and Pictou generally, as we have seen, accomplished the passage in fifty-two hours. The Lady Head, from calling at the interme- diate ports, and having the trip very much lengthened by detours up the Bay of Chaleur and the Miramichi, took five days. Leaving Quebec at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, she ordinarily arrived at Pictou early on Saturday. This "was found somewhat inconvenient to those who were travelling on business, and wanted to reach Pictou as speedily as possible, but to such as were travelling for pleasure or health, the opportunity was afforded of seeing some of the finest scenery on the continent. The present company have found it to their advan- tage to put two of their boats, the Secret and the Gasp4, on this route, but for the conve- nience of such as prefer the more direct route, they have supplied the Georgia emdAlhambra, so that now, instead of there being only a semi-monthly, there is nearly a semi-weekly intercommunication. Not having visited the Lower Provinces for the last seven years, and having the opportu- nity afforded me at the close of the past season, I gladly availed myself of it. I had the choice of four steamers. Some friends said, " Of course, youll go with old Davison " ; another, " I would recommend you to take t y 0* 3 o Pi o HH the Gaspi^ she's a fine strong boat, and Baquet is a fine fellow. Others assured me that the Georgia was in every respect the most desir- able boat of the line " ; and one said : " If I were yon, I would go in the Alhambra, she's not yet fitted up as a passenger boat, but you will have quiet and comfort, and you will find Captain McKenzie all that you can wish." I felt sure that I would be comfortable in either, but, as I am somewhat of a Conserva- tive in reference to old friends and acquaint- ances, I decided to go with the " Old Commo- dore," Captain Davison, whom I have known for many years, and with whom I had made several trips in the Lady Heady and I certainly had no reason to regret my choice. T]I£ UEPARTIJRE. I left the wharf at Quebec, in the Secret, at 4 p.m , on Tuesday, 3rd October. The after- noon was then fine, but dull and threatening. There were only some twenty cabin passen- gers, as it was too late in the season for travel- lers for pleasure. In a short time we were close on the ,.-t- and looking back up the Basin, we had the finest view of the city that can be furnished from any point, a view which I shall not at- tempt to describe further, than that " fairer scene was ne'er surveyed." Turning and looking downwards, the eye was attracted on the left by the sight of the FAI.T.S OF MOWTJffORF^rCI, and on the right by the pretty town of St. Joseph, with its English parklike S3eneiy ris- ing on the heights behind. There is an im- portant historical association connected with St. Joseph, for on the 30th June, 1759, the first collision, between the troops of Wolfe and Montcalm, occurred at the Church of St. Joseph. Proceeding down the South Channel we soon approached that famous spot " on the fertile and agreeable Island of Orleans and lender the Church of Laurentius," in other words the village of St. Laurent, where the British, army on the morning of 27th June, 1759, was landed without opposition ; on the opposite side is Beaumont^ to which Brigadier Monckfcon crossed from St Laurent on the evening of the 29th, with his division, and from whence on the following morning he advanced and took possession of Pointe Levis. The scenery is very beautiful in itself, but the interest with which we survey it, is much enhanced from these circumstances. Shortly after this, the evening set in with fog, and dun !ig the night Captain Davison slackened speed, and once stopped for a short time. THE TKAVKRNK. This famous strait which we passed through during the night, deserves some notice. Allu- sion is made to it in Knox^s Journal, and in the Thompson manuscript this paragraph oc- curs, " In the evening the last division of our Transports passed through the Traverse at the lower end of the ^Isfe D' Orleans,' which though reckoned dangerous, our ships worked up with a contrary wind; this piece of sea- manship surprised the enemy a good deal for we were the first that perhaps ever attempted to get through in this manner" — "Out of our great fleet, consisting of nearly two hundred ■'. sail, there was not a single ship lost, nor any damage sustained, except the loss of a few anchors and cables, where there were strong iv ': • . ' '' I ; \ )'■'■ 10 currents and foul ground." The Traverse ends near L' Islet, and so little was known of it, or its dangers so much exaggerated that we are told, that in 1759, the three decked ships of Wolfe's Expedition, were left in the North Channels of the Use aux Coudres^ in case there might not be water enough for their getting through the Traversed We in our day have seen the Great Eastern pass safely. There are a few of the Islands likewise which ought to be pointed out. First ; This beautiful Island, twenty-nine miles from Quebec, is owned by the Dominion Grovernment, and has been occupied for many years as a Quarantine Station, where all Emi- grant Ships and all vessels with sickness on board, are required to stop for inspection, and if necessary for the landing of the passengers, &c., &c. The Island, which is opposite the Village of St. Thomas, is about two and a half miles long by one in breadth, and con- tains all the accommodations and require- ments for Quarantine. Grosse Isle will be always painfully recollected in connection with Fever and the Immigrants in 1848. The mortal remains of some five thousand rest there. It This Island, on the north shore, opposite Les EbouiementSj is distant sixty-three miles from Quebec, and has now a population of five hundred. It is interesting on account of an allusion by General Murray, in his letter to Pitt, he says : " I resolved to give them battle, and if the event was not prosperous, to hold out to the last extremity, and then to retreat to the Isle of Orleans, or Coudres, with what was left of the garrison, to await for reinforcements." On the South Shore, we note the fashionable watering places of Riviere du Loup and Ca- counUy the first one hundred and twenty-five, and the latter, one hundred and thirty-one miles from Quebec. On the North shore Murray Bay, ninety miles, and the Saguenay immediately opposite Cacouna. BI€ Il^IiA^iD. At 6 a.m. of the 4th October, passed Bic Island, a low and sterile spot, on which only one family resides. It is one hundred and fifty miles from Quebec. After the Island is 12 « passed, looking up the River, between it and the south shore, you see some lofty hills beau- tifully undulated, risini^ in the back ground and forming a magnificent prospect. We may also note, that here, on the evening of 18th June, 1759, the British fleet, consisting of upwards of two hundred sail and carrying Wolfe's army, came to anchor for the first time since leaving Louisburg ; also, a circum- stance in which we are more immediately interested, the arrival of the steamer Persia after the winter had set in, in 1861, with a British regiment, which was there landed, carried by sleigh to Riviere du Loup, and from thence proceeded by Rail. FATHER POIJVT. At 8 a.m , we came too at Father Point, 166 miles from Quebec. Here we landed more than twenty passengers and received three. The landing place is a low^ beach beside the l^ighthouse, a little above the Point ; we had come to some distance from the landing, and we could not fail to remark how deeply the boat which took the passengers ashore was sunk in the w^ater. 18 c'ape chat. At 3.30 p.m., we reached Cape Chat, 230 ' miles from Quebec. The River here termi- nates and the Grulf begins, the dividing line extendini^ from Cape Chat on the South Shore, to Pointe des Monts on the North, twenty- eight miles across. The wind had veered in half an hour, all round the compass ; the after- noon which had been showery ended in a very rainy unpleasant evening; the night was dark and thick, and Ihe Captain remained on deck all night. Towards 5 a.m., of the 5th, we got into a cross-sea, which made the Secret roll heavily, and caused many of the passengers, myself among the number, to be very sick. At 6 a.m., the morning became very line, though cool, the ship now running cheerily on her course. CAPK OAf^PK. At 7 p.m., passed Cape Grasps, and soon en- tered its beautiful bay. Here in 1627, occurred an event big with fate to Canada. M. de Rou- gemont had in the month of April sailed from France with a fleet of twenty vessels, deeply laden with military stores and provisions, for Quebec. The King of England, on the other hand, had granted letters of marque to David Kirke, and his brothers, Louis and Thomas, to capture and destroy any French ships which they might encounter. The largest of the three vessels did not exceed 300 tons burden, but they were all armed to the teeth, and in every respect fitted for the object in view. Leaving England, after a favorable passage across the Atlantic, he arrived at Newfoundland, where he called to get news of the French fleet, but hearing nothing he proceeded to the Sague- nay, and found that de Rougemont had not yet arrived. Retracing his course down the St. Lawrence, on doubling Cape Graspe, there lay before him at anchor the whole French squadron, which had taken refuge in the bay from a storm. The French were superior in numbers, but were in no condition to fight, as they were too deeply laden, their decks crowded with passengers, and their ordnance (150 cannons) stowed away in the holds. Kirke decided to attack at once, but in order if possible to save the effusion of blood, he summoned de Rougemont, who sent a spirited refusal. Kirke at once bore down, and sail- ing under the stern of the French Admiral, delivered his broadside, rounded to, grappled, boarded, and was in a few minutes master of the ship. His brothers captured two other ships ; the rest at once surrendered. Having rifled ten of the smaller ships, he set them on •I H ••». 1 B^- ■'"* :• ^^ / ^■■■■■1 Wj^'^-jK^, i ■ .||S: A 1 I^K^' ' ^^^^^^^^H 3? ^^^^^1 ^^^r ^^^BP^' 1 ^^vfc- ^^^ - >ff ^v A V 1' o o CQ »— I 15 fire, the remainder with the most valuable stores he sent to Newfoundland. He carried M. de Rougemont, M. de la Tour and some others to England. By this action, Quebec was reduced to great distress, and next year when the brothers Klrke appeared before Quebec, the immortal and chivalrous Cham- plain had to surrender. OA{>iP£ BA8I^. After a very pleasant run of twelve miles up the Bay, we arrived at the entrance of G-aspe Basin, but as the Gaspe was lying at the wharf, we fired a gun and kept in the offing for a short time till she had left. The entrance to the Basin is very pretty, and on the slope of the hill on the right hand side is the neat little town. On the left hand, oppo- site the town, are the handsome mansion, warehouses and grounds of Mr. Le Boutillier. The Basin runs into the land about three miles, and at the head receives the York River, which is a salmon river. Graspe Bay was discovered by Jacques Cartier, on 24th July, 1534 ; it is about twenty miles in length, by five in width. Its upper portion from the Light-ship is sheltered by a magnificent natu- ral breakw^ater, superior to the artificial one 16 at Plymouth. There any number of ships can lie in perfect safety. Graspe is 450 miles distant Jrom Quebec, and is a great fishing station, where the whale, cod, and salmon fisheries are carried on successfully. On the highland to the rear of thvi village is the Gov- ernment Reserve, on which is, or was, Fort Kamsay. It may also be mentioned that lately attention has been directed to the min- eral resources, and two companies are digging for petroleum. Graspe in early time s used to be a great resort of the Breton and Basque fishermen, and down to a not very distant day, had, under the British Grovernment, a Lieut.- Grovernor. Jt is one of those delightful little spots where the tourist or sportsman may spend a few weeks in summer very pleasantly. At Graspe Basin we left some of our passen- gers, and after landing freight, at 10.30 a.m., w^e proceeded on our voyage. The morning was very delightful. At 12 noon, we passed between a low Island, the Plateau, and a pretty little village called St. Peters, and rounding the point, came in sight of the famed Perce rock and the charming village of Perce. We passed the rugged shore of the Island of Bonaventure on our left and the rock on our right, and rounded off into the little bay, w^here the )Secre^ came to, landed and received some passengers and got a supply of fresh 17 codfish ; Ihe population of Perce is 300, and it is 500 miles distant from Quebec. Many- would prefer it to Gaspe as a summer resi- dence. CAPK €OVE. Leaving Perce we soon came in sight of Cape Cove, a very snug and clean-looking station of some importance. Mr. Savage, who is the chief man of the place, was then load- ing a brig with dry cod. From Gaspe to this place the sea was dotted with numerous boats engaged in the codfishing. Cape Despair, which shelters the cove from the westward, was formerly called Cap D'Espoir or Hope Cape, but the name was changed to Despair in 1811, after the loss of a British man-of-war on the neighbouring rock. At 2.30 p.m , we passed the cove and did not reach Paspebiac till 7 p.m. It was too dark to see the coast, so I shall defer a description till my return trip. After landing freight at Paspebiac, we pro- ceeded on our way to Dalhousie, which we reached at 1.30 a.m. About two hours were spent in landing cargo. I shall have a good deal to say iSrbout Dalhousie and the Bay of Chaleur by and bye. On getting up at 7 a.m., on the morning of Friday, 6th October, and going on deck, I found that we were retrac-. B « \ 18 iiig our course, and were approaching Bona- venture village, distinguished by a large church. Running along the coast, we passed New Carlisle, the county town of the County of Bonaventure ; it was first settled by Ameri- can Loyalists ; the population is now 400, and the fisheries are prosecuted with considerable success. At 8 a.m., we were again opposite Paspebiac, which we now saw to great advan- tage. From a little above Bonaventure to this place the coast is very pretty, especially at New Carlisle and Paspebiac, whence there are a number of parks, bordered by belts of trees, the tints of the foliage of which furnished a fine contrast to the vivid green of the fields. Daring all the morning we passed many boats, with from two to three men in each, engaged in cod-fishing, and we were astonished at the myriads of ducks which we saw. We kept all afternoon under the left or Canadian shore, which is low and uninviting. I was inibrmed that the right, or New Brunswick shore is dangerous, on account of shifting shoals. At 4 p.m., the sky became over-cast, and we be- gan to look anxiously out for the Light-house. Just before the unpleasant change in the wea- ther we met the steamer Rothemy Castle opposite a low island, with a light called " Misco." Near sunset, when we were all earnestly looking for the Light-house to guide us into the Miramichi, we were alarmed by 19 cries very like those of a person hi distress, all anxiety was, however, speedily removed, when we discovered that they proceeded from a duck, which had got entangled, some way or other, immediately before the wheel of the boat. The cries were those of fear and dis- tress, and I never heard anything approach more nearly those of a human being, they ceased, however, as soon as she succeeded m extricating herself, which she fortunately did. A little before 6 p.m., both lights were dis- covered, and, finding it would be impossible to enter the Horse-shoe without risk, with the then uncertain light. Captain Davison de- cided to drop anchor till morning. The night, though very wet, was fortunately calm, so that the passengers passed it comfortably. The morning of Saturday, 7th, was dull, with oc- casional showers, but we made good progress, and arrived at ;e to say, after a few days' residence among them, 1 could see no cham^e, and there they sat or stood be- fore me, with the same countenances, the same smiles, the same attitudes (or natural language) as " forty years ago " Here is a curious mental problem, my thoughts did not revert to my last visit, but went back to the distant date 1 have mentioned. piCTOi:. I found Pictou much changed for the better, the old houses much improved both in external appearance and internal arrangements, and many fine new ones built. The population is now between three and four thousand, with every prospect of a speedy and large increase. It is not only the capital of the great and po- 27 puious County of Pictou, and the outlet of a rich agricultural district, but is the centre of the great coal mines, and when the proposed railway extension from the Nova Scotian Rail- way at West River is accomplished, it will be- come the real terminus on the Grulf of St. Law- rence of the Intercolonial Railway. At pre- sent the Nova Scotia Railway passes along" the south of the harbour, having stations at the Albion Mines and New Grlascrow, and termi- nates on the south side of the harbour at Fisher's G-rant. Passengers, &c., are trans- ported to the Railway wharf at Pictou in a fine steamer. The people of Pictou took a strong stand against Confederation, and were so dissatisfied when their efforts failed, that many emigrated to the United States. Latterly, however, though still retaining a strong feeling against the manner in which the measure was carried, and those who were instrumental in bringing it about, at the last general election, they so far reversed their judgment, as to reject the three former Anti-Confederate Representatives and return three Confederates, and so far as I could judge from a pretty free intercourse with members of both parties, will, for the fu- ture, accept the situation, which will be very much to their advantage. T^ord Falkland, in reply to an address some twenty years ago, V\ 28 used the expression " your pretty town," and so it is on a fine day. But after twenty-four hours of Pictou rain, when its clayed streets are fully saturated, and the sun ashamed to show his face, it certainly is not entitled to that designation. It has a Church of England, two Presbyterian Churches, a Catholic Church and a Methodist Chapel, all very neat buildings. The Pictonians always paid great attention to education, but they are now far in advance of any other Town in the Province. With their Academy and handsome school-houses fitted up with all modern conveniences, they are enabled to carry out most efficiently the ad- mirable system of education established by the Legislature. Mr. Herbert Bayne, the Rector of the Academy, is, to use a hackneyed but very fitting expression, " the right man in the right place," and keeps a register of meteoro- logical observations, and is in correspondence with Dr. Kingston, of Toronto Observatory. During my stay in Pictou, on Thursday, 12th October, it was visited by one of those sudden and unexpected storms which occa- sionally, though rarely, visit the Pro\ance, but which, when they do, extend from Canseau to Cape Sable, being especially destructive on the coast. Thursday morning was fine but very sultry; about 4 p.m. the heavens darkened, at 5.80 the window^s w^ere opened and the rain 20 tell in torrents, then a mighty wind arose, the houses rocked, trees were snapped across, fences overthrown, and the ships in the har- hour and at the wharves shattered and dam- aged. The storm raged almost without inter- mission lor six hours, and extended all over the Province, doing much damage, especially at Halifax. Fortunately there was no loss of life. The next day was most lovely, but the telegraph was hourly bringing reports of the damage done, among others that the railway embankment across Bedford Basin had been broken through, which caused a detention of the Halifax train from 12 noon till 5 p.m. While in Pictou I attended its Agricultural and Horticultural Exhibition, and I may say, without exaggeration, that the Exhibition, as a whole, would do credit to any country. The fruits were very fine, the roots of excellent quahty and of enormous size. The horses were of improved breeds. The cows were chiefly, what are called grades, in which the Ayrshire type predominated. Formerly the Durhams were in favor. The Berkshire and Chinese pigs have given place, and, in my opinion, most advantageously, to the Chester the finest hog, without exception, that I have ever seen. As pork w^as formerly, before the failure of the potatoe crop, one of the chief exports from the county, I have no doubt that it will again become a great exporter. no 111 the passage down from Quebec, I noted carefully and with surprise, the large quantities of freight delivered at the various places of call. There were. Hour from Canada West, barrels of coal oil from the Refineries, London ale, Toronto whiskey, Boswell's and McCal- lum's ale from Quebec, crackers and other biscuits from Hossack's establishment, Quebec, and strange to say. Prince Edward Island pork, which had found its way to the Quebec market, was now returning to some of the Gulf ports. There were also stoves from Point Levis. In short, almost everything re- quired in every day life. On rellection, with- out counting what a convenience it was to travellers, I was forced to admit, what a great benefit, the establishment of the line had con- ferred on the commerce of the country. IMctou may be said to be the great centre of the coal districts of the Province, that of Syd- ney, Cape Breton, and the more recently de- veloped mines being in the extreme east, and the <. umberland mines, at the west. There are three great mines at present in active operation in the neighborhood of Pictou, though the demand for coal has been very much diminished since the abrogation of the Reciprocity Treaty, but it is satisfactory to know that a new, unexpected, and steadilv increasing market has, of late, opened with 31 Canada. The oldest and most extensive works are those of the Albion mines, which have been worked by the G-eneral Mining Associa- tion for half a century. I regretted to find, on my late visit, that operations had been very much interfered with during the past season, by the occurrence of lire in one of the pits, and by the meeting in another, what is called a fault. From these various causes, there were only shipped from these mines, during the past season, 60,000 tons. The General Mining Association, upwards of thirty years ago, built a railway four and a-half miles in length, from the Albion mines to the load- ing ground, at the embouchure of the East Kiver, in IHctou Harbour, which enabled them to ship, if pressed, 1000 tons a day. They have now the additional advantage of being connected with Halifax, by the Pro- vincial llailwav, which has a station almost at the pit's mouth. The coal is good for gas, steam, and iron smelting, and is also a very fair domestic coal, though the quantity of ash is an objection to it as a parlour coal. It is furnished on board ship for ^2.50 per ton. Mr. Hudson is the Manager. The Acadia Mine is situated between the East and Middle Rivers, and has only been opened within the past ten years. It communicates with Pictou Harbour and Fisher's Grrant by a railway. Its coal is also of excellent quality ; the de- 32 maiid increasing, and during the past season it shipped 80,000 tons. Mr. Jesse Holt is the Manager. The Intercolonial Ilailwa}^ Com- pany, the chief stockholders of which are in Montreal, have recently opened, not far from the Acadian mine, the Drummond pil, so call- ed after Mr. Drummond, of Montreal. This mine promises to be one of the most exten- sively w^orked and remunerative mines in the Province. Being invited w^ith some friends to visit the mine, and dine with Mr. Dunn, the Manager, I availed myself of the opportu- nity, and never spent a more pleasant or in- structive day. Here I had an opportunity of seeing in operation all the most modern scien- tific mining appliances. We left Pictou in the Conqueror^ the Company's tug steamer, and soon reached their wharf, a little within the mouth of the Middle Kiver, and, taking the manager's car, were carried along their railway to the mine. After dinner w^e in- spected the works on the surface, and then went down the inclined plane, to the pit. The incline is 900 feet in length, and where it touches the seam, is just 300 feet perpen- dicular from the surface. The seam, I believe, is eighteen feet thick and of excellent quality, a fair sample of it may be seen in the shape of a large block, at the entrance of the Mon- treal Exchange. One of the facilities of work- ing this mine will be understood, when I 83 mention that the Ford pit at Albion Mines, is 900 feet perpendicular depth. There is a double track on the inclined plane, along which the wagons are drawn by a powerful stationary engine erected at the mouth of the pit. On reaching the surface the loaded wag- ons are discharged and the contents screened. The finest screenings are called pea coal, and sold to blacksmiths for 75 cents per ton — The next screenings are called nut coal, and are admirably suited for domestic purposes, either for the close Carron, or open Franklin stove. The nut coal is delivered at the pit-mouth for $1 per ton. The screened coal is called round coal, and is suitable for gas, steam, iron smelt- ing, and domestic purposes. It is sold, put on board ship for $2.50 per ton. There were shipped this season, 60,000 tons, a less quantity than last year, but at more remunerative rates. The railway from the mine to the wharf is of 5 feet 6 inches guage. The locomotives are of 26 tons weight, and draw a train of twenty- four wagons, each carrying 7 tons of coal. It has been found expedient to connect the mine with the Provincial Railway, arrangements are consequently being made to build a nar- row guage railway, two and a-half miles long, to form the junction. The estimated cost is $13,000 for the two and a-half miles, against $40,000, the estimate for a broad guage. It would be well, if those engaged in railway C '» \ 34 construction in the Province of Quebec, would take this into account. The interior of this mine is more pleasant than any into which I had previously descend- ed ; the galleries are lofty, some thirteen feet high, and white-wash is very extensively used, which gives a rather cheerful aspect to the pit and tends to the improvement of the atmos- phere, which, owing to the excellent system of ventilation adopted, is very pure. The atmosphere of the stable with twelve stalls, was equal to anything above the ground. I have dwelt thus long on this mine, because the Province of Quebec is peculiarly interested in its success, not simply on account of the large sums invested by the Montreal stock- holders, but because it has had a great deal to do with the opening of the new market, to which I have already alluded. It is well known that till of late coal could not be imported from Nova Scotia to Canada from two causes; first, it could not compete with coal imported from England as ballast in ships coming to Quebec for timber. In the second place the Nova Scotia ships, if they took coal either to Quebec or Montreal, could find no return cargo. The latter difficulty has now been almost altogether removed by the opening up of a great trade in sawn lumber, between Canada and the Atlantic and Pacific ports of 35 South America. The Nova Seotian can now, as he has done, carry coal to Quebec and Montreal at remunerative rates, and before- hand secure a charter for South America, which experience has proved to be very re- munerative — at any rate quite satisfactory to those engaged in it. ' HALIFAX. Having always intended to extend my visit to Halifax, I left by rail at 2 p.m., on Tuesday, 17 th October, but owing to ever-occurring contretemps, did not reach the Richmond fjta- tion at Halifax till 11.15 p.m. In a quarter of an hour I arrived at the "Waverly," and never in my life did I feel so sensible of^the advantage of "having mine ease in mine inn." After a light repast, I retired to bed, and slept the sleep of the weary and worn. I remained in Halifax nearly a fortnight, where I enjoyed the most delightful sunshine, some days being really like summer, and I had the pleasure of meeting many old friends and acquaintances. Halifax is really a pleasant place, much im- proved of late by numerous fine stone build- ings, its situation is good, and the streets regular and wide, but, I was morie struck on this than on any former visit, by its dingey C2 36 aspect ; all the wooden houses, and most of the houses are of wood, appeared, even those recently painted, blackened with coal smoke, which I was told was actually the case, as very little wood is used in Halifax, and the dense smoke of the coal being condensed by the intense sea fogs, which are there so prevalent, falls upon the houses and discolors them. If there is now any gentleman in search of a religion, I would certainly recommend him to proceed to Halifax, which is really a city of churches, where you will find, high church and low church and broad church, in con- nexion with the church of England. Some four Presbyterian churches in which you will find every shade of Presbyterian opinion promulgated. There are Baptists, Methodists and Universalists, &c., and last, though not least in numbers and influence, Roman Ca- tholics. In almost all of these various deno- minational churches, you will find their peculiar views ably and faithfully expounded by men some of whom are of more than average ability. Perhaps from his position and the peculiar circumstances of the times, the Roman Catholic Archbishop, Connolly, has of late occupied the most prominent posi- tion among the clergy. The powerful oppo- cition which he offered to the adoption of the dogma of Infallibility, at the Ecumenical 87 ^ Council at Rome, has given him a world wide reputation, while the uncompromising hostility shown on every occasion to the Fenian movement, makes him stand well with the Protestants of the Province, by whom he is respected as a liberal minded man, who, while earnestly advocating the interests of his own people, is striving to promote peace and good will towards other religionists. He is a man yet in the vigor of life, of a fine pre- sence, courteous manners, and to sum up all a hearty and cheerful Christian. It is incalcu- lable the good such a man is capable of doing in a mixed community like ours. Though a protestant from education and conviction, I pray with all my heart that such men as Archbishop Connolly, may be increased and multiplied. After the churches, you must be struck with the number of military men you meet everywhere in the city, and you become aware that you are in the strongest military post on the Continent, not even excepting famed Quebec. Its wonderful citadel, the forts at York tower, and on George's and McNab's Islands, have made it impregnable. When I was there, they were busy in land- ing a number of 12 and 18 ton Armstong guns, for arming George's Island. I might talk of its beautiful harbour, of the lovely c3 38 Bedford Basin, and the charming scenery of the Northwest Arm, but the tourist can ap- preciate these by a visit. Before leaving Halifax I shall only further say that while I was there, I was invited by a friend to ac- company him to Wolfville, where all the world was going to the great Horticultural Exhibition. To my great regret I was un- able to accomplish this. WOI.FVIIXE. Wolfville is situated in the district immor- talised by Longfellow, as the seat of the Acadians of old. It is the very garden of Nova Scotia of the present day, famed not only for its rich pastures and luxuriant wheat fields, but for the variety and fineness, I may almost say perfection of its fruits. At the conclusion of his Poem of Evanfreline^ which has given him so deserved and wide-spread reputation, may be found this stanza : — "Still stands the forest primeval; but iimler the shade of Mh branches Dwells another race, with other customs and languajre. Only along the shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile, Wandered back to their native land, to die in its bosom. In the fisherman's cot, the wheel and the loom are still busy ; Maidens still wear the Norman caps and their kirtles of home- spun. And by the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story ; While from its rocky caverns the deepvoiced neighboring ocean Si>eaks, and in accents disconsolate ansM'ors the wail of the forest." 39 I have now the pleasure to say, that the mistake hito which he had fallen having been recently pointed out to him, and that Grand Pre and the adjoining district were now known as lands of milk-and-honey, and per- meated by the Iron Rail, Mr. Longfellow had the good feeling and good taste to make the amende honorable, by sending to the Wolfville Committee a sum of money to form a prize for the best apples, to be called the Evange- line prize. Turning from poetry to prose, I shall con- clude my notice of Halifax, by a commercial statement. During the month of October last, there entered the port 420 vessels, as follows : 38 steamers, 1 ship, 7 barques, 49 brigs and brigan tines, and 325 schooners. Of these, 4 were from Great Britain, 4 from the Conti- nent, 18 from the West Indies, 42 from the United States, and 352 from Ports in Nova Scotia and the adjoining British Provinces. The clearances were 238, as follows: 28 steamers, 1 ship, 7 barques, 35 brigs and bri- gantines, and 167 schoon*irs. Of these, 2 were for Grreat Britain, 16 for West Indies, 19 for United States, and 201 for Ports in Nova Scotia and the adjoining Provinces. In Sep- tember, the arrivals had been 337 and the clearances 317, which shows a considerable \\ 40 increase of the number of arrivals in Novem- ber, but a falling oft' in the clearances, to be accounted for by the large number of coasters remaining in port. It would be w^rong to omit allusion to the Museum of Natural History placed in the new Provincial Euilding, and which owes its ex- istence mainly to the intelligence and industry of its curator, the Rev. Dr. Honey man. The tourist will be well repaid by devoting a couple of hours to its inspection. It is said, that on arriving at a large city, during his travels. Prince Alfred asked if it had a Lunatic Asylum, adding that they always made a point of taking him to every Lunatic Asylum. This reminds me that I visited the Provincial Lunatic Asylum on the Dartmouth side of Halifax Harbour. I went over it with my friend. Dr. Dewolf, and de- rived as much satisfaction from what I saw as it was possible, in connexion with such an Institution. To say that the building itself and all its arrangements were of the most modern description, and simply admirable, is nothing but justice. The manner in which it is managed and supported, is worthy of the earnest consideration of the people of Quebec and Ontario. 41 Having spent a very pleasant fortnight in Halifax, I left it, and the kind friends I had met, especially the family in w^hose hospitable mansion I had spent the last week, w^ith very great regret, and returned to Pictou by rail. Leaving at 12, noon, I did not reach the ter- minus opposite Pictou till 9 p.m., though the distance is only a little over one hundred miles, a rate of speed by no means alarming, but vs^hich is well calculated to weary the pas- sengers, and which it did most effectually on this occasion. I remained at Pictou from the 29th October till the 10th November. The winter had now fairly set in, though as yet no snow had fallen. The ground was hard frozen, and there was no blink of sunshine. It looked threatening all the time, but no snow fell till the evening before my depar- ture. I had intended to visit the Gold Minos, not having seen any of them for the last ten years, but the weather was so unpropitious and threatening that I did not carry out my intention. 1 may here say that referring to Heath eringlonh carefully prepared tables, I find that the yield of gold, from the first work- ing of the mines in 1860 to the close of 1870, was 177,548 oz. 14 dw. 18 qrs. That there are now Thirteen Proclaimed Gold Districts, and that the daily average of men employed for 312 days in the year, was 695.2. On my first visit, ten years ago, 1 published my opi- 42 nion that gold miiiiiio- in Nova Scotia would become a steady and permanent branch of provincial industry ; in 1870 these mines were visited by Mr. Selvvyn, the successor to Sir Wm. J^ogan, in the direction of the " Geolo- gical Survey of Canada;" Mr. Selwyn had iifteen years' experience in a similar position in Australia ; he has placed his opinion on re- cord — " that divested of speculation, and con- ducted with the same skill, forethought, and proper amount of capital necessary for the success of any commercial enterprise, gold mining will become here as in Australia, a /astin^y profitable^ and important national in- dustryr I tore myself away from Pictou with regret, and though I again had the opportunity of selecting either of the other boats, I adhered to the Secret, and my old friend Captain Da- vison. We left the wharf at Pictou on Friday, 10th November, at 7 a.m., a line bright morn- ing, though cold. There were few passen- gers. After a pleasant run of eleven hours and a-half (the average passage being nine hours) we arrived at Shediac at 6.30 p.m. I have already described this place, and it will not be necessary to say anything in addition. We were detained for several hours, landing freight and closing accounts for the year, this being the last trip of the Secret for the season. 43 As the nij^ht was fine, with moon-light, I landed and took a walk. The heavens were illumed for several hours with the most splen- did aurora conceivable, of every color and form, and certainly worthy of theii Scotch de- signation, " the merry dancers." It was amvis- ing to listen to the different prognostications of the weather, drawn from them. Some as- serting that they were indicators of cold, others that they were the sure prognosticators of heat, a few intimating that they were always the forerunners of wet weather. Captain Da- vison smiled, and said that it was possible they preceded all these, but that he was con- fident that the aurora itself proceeded from ice. Leaving Shediac at 2.30 a.m., we ran very comfortably during the night, and at 8.30 a.m. were opposite Skiminac Light ; the morn- ing fine and bright, but cold. I have already mentioned that this light is at the entrance of Miramichi Bay, and is about thirty miles dis- tant from Chatham, which we reached at 11.30 a.m., the run from Shediac having occu- pied nine hours. We landed freight and went on to Newcastle, where we were detained several hours, while the Purser w^as closing his account. We got away, however, at 4.15 p.m., and the evening being fine, and the water smooth, we got comfortably through the Horse Shoe, and had an excellent oppor- tunitv of discoverinir whence the name, as the 44 Water being smooth and there being sufficient light, we were able to trace the steamer's course through the channel, which presented the exact form of a horse shoe. Though the wind w*as high and adverse, we went on steadily, though slowly, during the whole night, and at 8 a.m., of Sunday, 12th Novem- ber, were just forty miles from Dalhousie, where we found the Ga:spe, which had arrived from Quebec, a short time before. The har- bour was very rough, and no boat came from the shore. We dined as usual at 1 p.m., and soon after the Captain sent a boat ashore with such of the passengers as v/ere to land. ]>40ir*'llSIK. I shall now give an account of Dalhousie, which I had not an opportunity of doing in the down trip. The town or village is situated on the right bank, at the mouth of the Ristigouche, in a little bay, the entrance of which is pro- tected by a small island. It contains 600 in- habitants, and is noted for its extensive salmon fishery. A large trade is done here in pre- served salmon and lobsters, and in the manu- facture and supply of lumber. The town is prettily situated on the side of a hill, and on the height to the eastward is a tall obelisk, a mo- 46 imment to a Mr. Hamilton, one of the found- ers of the settlement, it answers well as a beacon. It is a favorite summer resort for several Quebec families, owing to its salubrity, its facilities for bathing, and its vicinity to the fishing grounds of the Ristigouche. It is dis- tant from Chatham 97 miles, one hundred and eighty from Shediac, and 216 from Ri- viere-du-Loup, and the Intercolonial Railroad passes within four miles of it. When we were here six weeks ago, the country looked very beautiful and green, now everything w^as changed and wore the aspect of " black winter," the wind very high and cold, the harbour very rough, and the mountains sprinkled with snow. As there is no wharf at Dalhousie at which the steamer can lie, the Secret kept up steam and remained all day in the stream. On Monday, the 13th, a scow came alongside of the Gaspe a little before 10 a.m., but none came to us till 2 p.m. We were about ten hours transferring our freight, to the extent of about one thousand barrels. Our transfer, however, was finished about midnight, and we immediately left for PASPKBIAC, which we reached in four and a-half hours ; the morning was fine but the air very keen, and the town looked very pretty, and \ \ 46 there were no less than nine fine brio's and schooners at anchor in the bay. At 9.30 a.m., Tuesday, we had landed onr freight and closed our business. The population of Paspebiac is 250, and it exports annually 75,000 quintals of codfish. Messrs. Robin & Co. have the largest establishment here. From Paspebiac the shore is pleasing for a short distance, when it becomes bleak and barren, and when we approached Newport Church, the waves were breaking with violence on the shore. About 1.30 p.m. passed Cape Mackereau, on the left shore of the entrance of Baie des Cha- leurs. Cape Bisco is on the opposite side, the distance between being twentv-ibur miles. The entrance of the bay is exactly 100 miles from Dalhousie. At 2 p.m., we came insijfht of Perce, and at 3 p.m , dropped anchor in this most picturesque little bay. A few Hakes of snow began to fall, and as the height above the village was cloud-capped, the Captain ex- pressed some uneasiness about the weather — and as four boats were leaving the shore with freight, which might delay us longer than was desirable, he feared we might not be able to get into Cxaspe that night. The Purser, how- ever, had his accounts closed by 4.30 p.m., and the weather having cleared, so that we could see the point, we proceeded at once to sea, and after a pleasant run, came to the wharf at Gasp 6 Basin. After transacting bu- 47 siness and taking on board several passeiif^ers, at 10 p.m. we proceeded on our voyage. The night had now become clear, with little wind, so we had a pleasant run all night, merely stopping to land passengers at Grande Greve. Wednesday, 15th, at 8 p.m., off' Point Louis; the sun was shining brightly and the (iulf quite smooth The coast (south) uninviting and sterile, but at every little cove were to be seen the huts of iishermen. At breakfast. Captain Davison and one of the gentlemen passengers had a conversntion about an expedition to Anticosti twenty years ago, and the Captain told several anecdotes in connection with one Gamache, then resid- ing on the Island. His wife had dropsy, and wore bearskin breeches, which were con- sidered a sovereign remedy, though, unfortu- nately, in her case, inefficacious. Her two girls, of seven and nine years of age, were dressed in sail-cloth. After the death of their mother, the sons went on a hunting expedi- tion, and were absent some time. On their return, they found their father lying dead on the floor. He had been dead for nine days, and the little girls did not know what to do. They were subsequently taken to their friends in Canada. Captain Davison also mentioned that, in one of his excursions, he found buried in the ground, about a gunshot from the coast, 48 . the skull of a whale, in a good state of pre- servation. He attempted to remove it, but, not having proper implements, did not suc- ceed. At 1 p.m., Wednesday, 15th, off Cape Chat, and saw Point des Monts on the North Shore. At 8.30 p.m., came to at Father Point, where we were detained till 9.30. During the night, the wind blew steadily and vio- lently from the East, and snow fell heavily, which compelled Captain Davison to be on deck all night. Thursday, 16th, 8 a.m., at the entrance of the Traverse, still snowing and blowing, with heavy sea, the East wind now contending with ihe ebb tide. We had to proceed with caution, and at 9.45 were off I'lslet. At 3 p.m., arrived at the wharf at Quebec, wind and tide very high, the ferry-boat unable to cross, and the Montreal boat not yet arrived, much to the satisfaction of a considerable number of passengers who did not wish to be detained at Quebec, and feared that we might arrive after her departure for Montreal. CJOi^CXUSIOIV. Thus terminated a protracted and stormy passage, though otherwise not unpleasant. Captain Davison's passage down had occu- ■■lif>'T9''C 4^ pied nine days, and he assured me that in all his experience, he had never met with such a continuance of storms. I certainly should not recommend the pleasure-seeker to travel so late dow^n the Grulf of St. Lawrence, but from May till the end of August, a more de- lightful or health-giving trip cannot be con- ceived than the one I have described. The accommodation of the boat came fully up to expectation. I have already given my opinion of the Commander and Purser. Captain Da- vison assured me that in the mate (a French Canadian) the Company had an officer as trustworthy and competent as himself. I can say from personal knowledge that Straker, the chief steward, and his subordinates, were civil and obliging, as were also the stewardess and her assistants. When we know how much the comfort of passengers depends on these officers, the Company (or its Manager, Mr. Moore,) deserves great credit for their efficient arrangements. •• • • • • * dlEBEC A\D Ol'LF PORTS STEAMERS. The Steel-built Paddle Steamers Secret, Captain Davison, and Miramichi, Captain Ba- quet, are intended to leave Quebec and Pictou every Tuesday during the season of naviga- tion. The Steam shij)s Alhamhra and Flamhorougli will leave Montreal on alternate Fridays at 4 P.M., and Quebec the following day, Satur- day, at 2 P.M. ItOFTK A\l> l>ISTAXCi:S. S. Miles. Page. Montreal to Quebec, 180 7 " Father Point, 355 12 " 81iediac,N.B 72-t 21-42 " Charlottetown, P.E. I... 798 23 " Picton, N. 8 843 2G-41 Shediac to Saint John bv Kail, 106 miles 22 S. Miles. Page. Quebec to Father Point, 175 12 " Metis 191 — « (iaspe, 443 13 « Perce, 472 16-46 " Paspebiac, 543 18-45 « Dalhousie,. 598 17-44 « .Cha'th'A'.Ti.. 791 19-43 « NeAicastle, 796 20-43 « • Slrediac,...*. 901 21-42 « - PictGU 102^ 26-41 Pictou to Ik'lifax by Kail, 113 miles !.... 35 UM^: