m m W' ■ i mm V] u«»iinir««. ..iirfi?"ffiiiiMTirrwrifcin1fi<[rivi'i PREFACE. The first edition of this work was compiled by Lieut. W. W. Gillpatrick, U. S. Navy, and Ensign John Gibson, U. S. Navy.' The present edition has been compiled by Mr. R. C. Ray, U. S. Navy, chiefly from the first edition, and British Admiralty' publi- cation, Newfoundland and Labrador Pilot, Third Edition, 1897, and such additions and corrections as have become available from reports received. The meteorological remarks in the opening chapter have been revised by Mr. James Page, in the Division of Meteorology. Since much of the coast described is imperfectly surveyed, mari- ners are requested to point out to the United States Hydrographic Oflice, either directly or through one of its branch offices, any errors and omissions that they may discover. With a view of making the next edition of this publication more useful and com- plete, new information is also requested. J. E. Ceaio, Commander, U. S. Navy, Hydrographer. United States HYDBoaRAPHic Office, Washington, D. C, April, 1899. (V) A r ISJ^OTE. The bearings, courses, and trend of the land are true; but for convenience the corresponding magnetic bearings, to the nearest degree, follow in parentheses. (Variation in 1900.) The direc- tions of the winds are given for the points from which they blow; the directions of the currents for the points toward which they set. Distances are expressed in nautical miles. Soundings, unless otherwise stated, are reduced to mean low water. (VI) g^.iV^T-.- , t^^--f^,'?^^^t^-^&S..^a~-iiJfc-.---^--t--r- , •,■•-> Vl'rr -ft- . are true; but for fs, to the nearest L900.) The direc- which they blow ; ward which they Soundings, unless i|)a-.-TiH..r.--i„».-.^-»«. laau . &j>fj 597 izoaz ^^•uj "'•"^Jt. 4H- ^f St. raid 1 611 47- _L iVt- 60* J L_ 1 T 1 1 r NoiOi of B«n« I«U St VHti$on. 3UhU FUhu\0 SMfShr StJhanois Shy \ OaomHonai Shr 1 ^81 b 4B. lUln- Ikll. Fair X. Min. dayi. Ineka. 1,0 S.0 3.23 16 !.0 0.0 4.78 19 ».o 13.0 8,12 14 S,0 19.0 1.71 22 1.0 32.0 2.97 16 1.0 32.0 3,60 16 r.o 44.0 3,61 IS H.O 33,0 8,47 17 4.0 2S.0 9,02 12 8.0 19.0 A. 38 16 8,0 10,0 fi.40 11 QitvAe. W. 58" n 3 6.0 4.2 6.0 6.3 13,2 38.3 46,0 46,0 40,2 31.2 20.0 0,2 8.0 8.3 3.5 10,3 7 2 19 20 2 6 2 6 2.0 4,0 >3 S2.0 .55* 2^. «l,0 -16,0 0.14 16 H,0 -8.0 0.16 IS w.o -6.0 0.18 17 tH,0 9,0 0.27 22 47,0 12,0 1.97 22 t)l,0 32.0 3.63 20 88.0 40.0 2.63 21 fi».0 40.0 11.48 18 W,0 37.0 1.71 18 87.0 27.0 4.16 18 41.0 8.0 2.60 18 37.0 -9.0 0.01 22 CLIMATE — WINDS. 9 Tliore is nothing in the climate to interfere with rtgricultum. Flowering plants au.l ferius grow in vast vavioty, and wild gnissos and clover luxuriantly. Garden vegetables and borrios are abun- dant. The tardy ai-rival of spring has no sericjus effect on vege- tation, which hero, as in Nova Scotia, advances witli rapid strides after commencement. Autumn, generally the finest season, fre- quently reaches to November, and the winter, setting in about the ' beginning of December, lasts until the middle of April, with snow lying almost continuously during that period. On the west coast the climate is much more genial than on the southern and eastern shores, and vegetation is more abundant. In the interior the summer temperature is higher than that experi- enced on the seacoast. The average annual rainfall is 68.3 inches. Labrador. — The climate on this coast is extremely severe, the mean temperature of the year being below freezing point, so that vegetables are only raised with great diflficulty, and rarely reach maturity ; but at the heads of the deep inlets vegetables, flowers, and even cereals are grown. Frost may occur at any time of the year, and snow was experienced in the neighborhood of Indian Harbor in July, August, and September of 1875. When the direction of the wind is from seaward the temperature falls considerably during the summer months. Large patches of snow, 5 or 6 feet deep, were lying in the valleys along the whole coast in the middle of July, 1875, and some of them had not disap- peared when the first large fall of snow occurred in September. The mean temperature of the air for the coast between Cape Por- cupine and Nain was 46.5° in July, 50.3° in August, and 44.5° in September, found by taking the mean of the highest and lowest temperatures observed each day. Winds. — Meteorologically considered, the region under discus- sion occupies a unique position. In the first place, it lies immedi- ately to the southwest of the area of constant low barometric pressure, which extends from Baffin Bay on the west to Iceland on the east ; in the second place, it lies immediately in the path followed by the centers of those temporary moving barometric depressions which originate in the interior of the North American Continent and travel eastward with an irregular velocity until they either disappear by filling up or lose their identity by coming within the limits of the permanent low. As a consequence of the first condition, the barometric gradient or slope over the region being to the northeastward, the prevailing direction of the wind is to the west of NW. As a consequence of the second condition, these prevailing winds are subject to constant interruption by the wind systems proper to the approach and passage of each of these temporary areas of low pressure, the wind at any station in advance I 1 I f I 10 LABRADOR. of such an ar«a invariably going to south or 8E., Hliifting to wostward as the cyclonic center passes, the shifts taking plaro through the north (hacking) if the point of observation lies to the north (left hand) of the storm trai;k, tiirough tlie south (veering) if it lies to the Houth (right hantl) of this track. Along the coast of Newfoundland the prevailing winds are thus from the westward, subject to interruption with the approach of each of these occasional low areas; and as tliese occur during the winter (Nov(>mber to April) witp far greater frequency than dur- ing the summer (May to October), the winds of the latter season are the more uniform, both in force and direction. The following table, compiled from the Monthly Weather Review of the Dominion Meteorological Service, gives for the months of January and July the average percentage of winds com- ing from each point of the compass at several stations through- out the island : No. of year* N. NI. I. 81. S. BW. w. NW. Oalnii. 8 S 3 'V 3 1 I 1) 1) aa s 10 2 4 B SA 9 B 6 18 10 fl S 31 11 Sli 31 9 10 14 22 IB 42 18 21 SB 14 24 8 IS B 7 10 a 3 8 10 12 18 80 23 22 B 11 8 48 14 26 10 2 23 8 83 48 18 1 16 4 Bl. John! • Julv -— -- - - 8 Cbftniipl ' July 4 Cape Norman. Julv Point Bich July - B«lle Iile The order of the weather changes during the approach of one of these barometric depressions is almost invariable. After a period of stationary barometer, accompanied by light winds, the mercury starts to fall, the wind goes to the eastward with rain or snow, and a period of thick, foggy weather sets in. About the time of lowest barometer the SE. wind shifts to the SW. and then to the NW., blowing with storm force. The former shift is sometimes sudden, the first squall often coming with extra violence, and shipmasters lying off the coast should exercise corresponding watchfulness. The rise of the barometer is accompanied by overcast, squally weather and storm winds from SW.-NW., moderating and clear- ing about the time the mercury attains its highest point. The following extract from the log of the St. Qeorgios I., off Cape Race, November 30-December 3, 1898, will serve to exemplify the character of the weather changes in the southern semicircle of SE., Hhifting to ifts tttkiuK plftce vation li*iH to tho e south (vooring) ig windn are thuH tlio iipproHch of occur during the quoucy than dur- the latter season [onthly Weather ce, gives for the age of winds corn- stations through- 8W. W. KW. Oftlnii. 6 1« 10 13 SO a S 83 23 8 7 22 6 4 10 8 83 8 11 48 a e 18 8 a 1 16 14 16 12 86 4 approach of one of e. After a period rinds, the mercury rain or snow, and ihe time of lowest len to the NW., lometimes sudden, I, and shipmasters ing watchfulness, overcast, squally Brating and clear- est point. /. Qeorgios I., off serve to exemplify ihem semicircle of uixdk- »»««. n one (if thoHi> eHNtwtinl-iiuiving depressioun. TUf Beuul'urt wt'HthtT iiotutiou Ih oniployod throughout: I)*I»(1)<|)N). NuTtmtior 3i> . Ii*('ii|iibiir I • Hiiiir. Di>ri>nili*r 3. DMDinlMr 8. 4 |i. III. H ji. m. 12 p. Ill, 4 «. III. N H. ni. U ». III. Muuii. H |l. Dl. 4 •. m. Miiuii, 8 p. Ml, 4 H. ni. NiKIII. Biin>nii^ tur. tnrhn. 2V.A4 2(1. :i(l 211. HI 2lt, liti 811. HT ■JH.Tl 2il. in 211. 22 20. M 211. n 4»o 480 r o •"1 <>ll il_ The f'iistorly wIikIh propor to tlio forwiird lialf nf tliO'!(> do])ros- hIoils lire iicc(>inpiiiii»'(l liy ruin (or hikiw), wliich is lialili' t(i con- tinue for twolvo liours HuccccdiuK tliu tinio of lowest Imroinetci'. Tho NW, winds bring cloar woathor. Wt'Htt'rly winds gcMicrally diminish in str»Mit!;th at snnsot, Init on those occasions when thoy steadily prevail until niidnighi it fre- quently occurs that tho winds changes to NNE. in tho following morning. At tho entrance of nio. t of the hnrbors the wind is gen(;»rally uncertain in its direction, and fre(|nent s(juhI1s are experienct'd, which at times are so heavy that great caution is nece8,sary when ai>pr(>aching in a vessel under sail, and it is advisable that steam- ers on such occasions should have steam ready. Fog^ occur at all seasons of tho year, but are most fre((uent dur- ing tho m