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A C H A K T rftfie ^\ 't L AN TIC and S O I' T H >; a "N H A X S. "
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THE
HISTORY of a VOYAGE
T O T H E
Malouine (or Falkland) Iflands,
Made in 1763 and 1764,
Under the Command of M.de BOUGAINVILLE,!,,
in Order to form a Settlement there :
i ,/:
iiAi.
AND OF \.->i//
Two Voyages to the STREIGHTS of MAGELLAN,
W I T H A N
Account of the P A T A G O N I A N S.
Tranflated from Dom PERNETY's Historical Journal,
written in French.
ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER-PLATES.
THE SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
Printed for WILLIAM GOLDSMITH, Number 24, Pater-Noster
Row; and DAVID STEEL, Number 1, Union-Row, the
Lower-End of the MiNORiEs, Little Tower-Hiil.
M.DCCLXXIIL
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ADVERTISEMENT to the READER.
't- ■ :'\-
THE Editor thinks it neceflary to acquaint the Reader,
that, in this tranflation of Dom Pernety's Journal, no-
thing has been omitted, but the detail of ordinary occurrences,,
which appeared common to every voyage. Whatever Teemed ini
any view peculiar to this expedition has been retained..
In refpe^l to the cuts and plans, fome alterations and addi*
tions have been made. A general chart (hewing the fituatioa
of Falkland's Iflands in the Southern Ocean, which was not
given in the original, is here inserted. PFans of the iflands of
St. Catherine, and of Buenos Ayres, are alfo added. The birds,
fi(h, Sec. are clafled in their proper order, and placed at the
end of the book with references to the page in which they are
mentioned.
The Editor hopes the work will meet with the approbation-
of the public, as he has fpared neither coft nor pains to aiaks,
it ufeful and exa£l..
■■■i>iL^~^.':^7^/ji\ .-
.♦ih
I*
Note of the Tranflator omitted in page 242.
The PInguin here mentioned, is difFerent from that which is defcribed by our
ingenious couotrymui Mr. Pennant, under the name of the Patagonian Pinguin ;
and anfwers more exaAly to the fecond fpecies or lefler Pinguin fpoken of by
that gentleman, and which is otherwife called, Anfer Magellanicus Clufii, 6tc.
It is probable that Don Pernety never faw the Patagonian Pinguin, fince he fays
nothing of it. The Re?der will find an accurate account of the different fpecies
of this Angular bird, in the jBth volume of the Phitofophical Tranfa^iontf W^ich
contains Mr. Peonaot's piiper on that fubjed. 9
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Dire£lions to the Book Binder for placing the Plates.
I. The general Chart to front the Title.
Page
2. St.- Catherines Ifland, &c - > » .
- 41
3. Rio dc la Plata - . - -
- lOI
4. Plan of Montevideo - -
- 139
5. Spaniards at Montevideo - . _
- 142
6. Spanifti Lady of Montevideo r
- H3
7. A Spaniard of Montevideo
- 144
8. A Spanilh Gentleman of Montevideo
- 145
9. An Indian of Montevideo ." " "
- 163
10. Malouine or Falkland Iflands
- ^77
1 1. Plan and View of Acarron Bay
' 189
12. Streights of Magellan . - -
- 263
13. The Patagonians - - •
- ^73
14. Fifties found in this Voyage - "i
15. Birds, ditto - - - > at the End of the Book.
J 6. Sea Lyons, &c.
^ .'
If.
THE
.i»;i '■■
VI c.V
A U T H O R's
P R E F A C
E.
THE difcovery and knowledge of the Malouine Iflands
has been looked upon as an objef^ of fo much import-
ance, that the EngU(h, having been informed of the expedition
we made there in 1^64, thought it necelTary to eftablifh them-
felves in thofe iflands, notwithftanding that we had already
taken pofleflion of them in the name of tlte crown of France.
In preparing for this voyage, which excited the attention of all
Europe, they took extraordinary precautions. Commodore
Byron was employed on this expedition with two fliips, the Dol-
phin and the Tamer frigate, under his command. The Florida
was afterwards difpatched to carry them provifions of all kinds.
We had taken pofleflion of thefe iflands in the beginning of
April, before the Dolphin was off the flocks, and we quitted
them the 8th of the fame month on our return to France, where
we landed the 26th of June. The Englifli did not fail till fome
days after. On the 4th of December they left Port Deflre, and
took their courfe towards the South of the fuppofed Pepys's
Ifland, at 48 degrees South latitude, where they made feveral
unfuccefsful attempts for the difcovery of that ifland. They
were then obliged, as they obferve p. 69, of the Voyage round
the world in 1764 and 1765 on board the Dolphin, to abandon
that refearch, being well perfuaded of the impoflibility of finding
this fuppofed ifland.
The 2 2d of the fame month (December) being in the Streights
of Magellan, five leagues diftance from Terra del Fucgo, they
obfei ved a Imoke riflng in feveral places on the oppofite coaft,
which is that of Patagonia. They fleered towards it, and cafling
B anchor
,.^-.
u
PREFACE.
anchor at about a mile from fhore, faw dillin£l!y men on horfe-
back, who beckoned to them.
On approaching the coad tHcre' appeared manifefl figns of
fear in the countenances of thofe, who were going on fhore in
the boat, when they perceived at the water fide men of a pro-
digious ftature. ^The Commodofe, animated with the idea of
making a difcovery relative to thefe Pata^^onians, the queflion of
whofc exiftcnce had for a long time furnilhed matter of conver-
fation in England, was the firft who leaped on ihore, and was
followed by his officers and feamen well armed, whom be drew
up in a pofture of ddfence. The favages, to the number of about
200, immediately ran up to them, looking at them with an air
of the greateft Airprize, and fmiling at the difproportion ia fizQ
between the Engli(h#id themfelvesJ ni rro'::: io i\iihMt rr ; ^ t
The Commodore made ffgns to them to fit down, which they
complied with ; and he put about their necks collars of enamelled
beads, and ribbands, giving to each of them fome fuch trifling
ornament. Their fize is fo extraordinary, that even fitting they
were almoft as high as the Commodore when he flood upright*
(p. 77.) IP^-i'^^'r, >:ywM. 'YJ; 'o c i
t > '
'.-'i; 't,\yiAS\ .,',>■
'* The Commodbre is faid, in the preface-to the fame Account, (p. 61.) to be
£x feet high. It mud be remembered, that the £ngliOi foot is near an inch lela
than the French flandard foot..
P R E F A . C E.
m
ing very fwift, b\it their height is not in proportion to .th^t of
their riders, and they feemed befides to be in but indiflferent con-
dition, (p. 85.) They appeared to be of a mild and friendly
difpofition. (p. 83.) . t- .. >ii,if» ,5 fpi i^fp^^p ^^.. ^i.^^t-.j .;u ^jj
Among the Englifli was Lieutenant Cummms, w|ibm the
Patagonians feemed to regard wi|h particular fattsfafllonj ou
account of his height, which was not lefs than fix fe£t ten
inches. Some of them clapped him on the back ; but though
this was intended only as a mark of their kindnefs, their hand<
fell fo heavy upon him» that he ilaggered uilder the weight of
them; unyUfr itiu jt f
On this 23d of the fame month, the EngllAi having advanced
farther into the Streights difcovered feveral favages, on the Ifland
of Saint Elizabeth, who made figns to tliem to come on Ihore.
Both the men and women were of middling (lature, and well
ihaped. Their hair was blacky their fkin, which is naturally of
an olive colour, appeared red, becaufe they paint their bodies
with a compofition of reddifli earth mixed with greafe. They
are cloathed with the (kins of fea-calves, otters, or Peruvian
fheep, fewed together, fo as to make one piece of about four
feet and one half fquare. They wear caps made of the {kins of
birds with the featheis, and have alfo fkins on their feet, which
ferve them inftead of fhoes. Some of the women had girdles
alfo made of fkins ; but none of them wore caps ; they were
only diftinguifhed by a necklace of iliells. (p. 92.)
After having provided therofelves with wood and water at
Port Famine^ the Englifli failed from thence the 5th of January
9765, and fleering eaflward, cleared the Streights, and faw land
the 13th of the fame month. The next day they entered a very
commodious bay, within which were feveral fmall ones, and dif-
ferent harbours : to the third of thefe they gave the name of
Port Egmont. The entrance to this bay is by the North $ it is
half a mile in width, and has from {even to thirteen fathon)
depth on a muddy bottom, (p. 121). .
B 2 The
t»
P R iJ F A C E.
!«
The 23(1 of January, the Commodore took poneflion of all
thefe iflands in the name of the King of Great Britain, and left
them the a7th, without having eftabiifhed any fettiement there.
Thefe iflands are fltuated in 51 degrees 21 minutes South lati-
tude, and 66 degrees ten minutes Weft longitude, (p. 134).
From hence they returned, coafting along to tiie Streights of
Magellan.
It will appear by the particulars of this Englifli account, and
by thofe of my Journal, that we were acquainted with the
Malouine Iflands, and had formed a fettiement there, near a
twelvemonth before the two fliips under the command of Mr.
Byron had even difcovered them. At the time even when thefe
two veflfels arrived there, Monf. de Bougainville was then re-
turned } and having feen them from the port where he lay at
anchor, fet fail for the Streights of Magellan, where he met
vvith them, as will be feen at the end of my Journal.
I have entered into the detail of this Englifli expedition to
the Malouines in order to convince the public of the inconteft-
able right of the crown of France to the pofleflicm of them, in
oppofition to the injurious pretenfions of the Englifli.
I have alfo given a flcetch of the account, which one of the
officers of Mr. Byron's fliip has printed concerning the giants of
Patagonia, that the Reader might compare it with what is faid
of them in the extracts from the journals of the French Cap-
tains, who have feen and made a longer flay with thefe Pata*
gonians than the Englifli have. Such a comparifon will prove
to thofe who are incredulous, or who have too much vanity to
fuffer themfelves to appear ignorant of what has never come to
their knowledge, or, from the fame principle, make a point
of denying every thing they have not feen, that there exifls^
neverthelefs, a race of men, the bulk and enormity of whofe fize
may teach thefe unbelieving, vain, and felf-conceited. perfons, to
reduce their magnificent pretenfions, and be contented to confider
themfelves as not the fmalleft among the race of dwarfis..
The
' H
■M
PREFACE.
\
The
The Strelghts of Magellan were little ktiown. The accounts
we had of it till this time, though many in number, were not to
be depended upon ) the obfei vations were either deficient in
exaftnefs or in perfpicuity. This has determined me to give thofe
of our two French Captains, and a chart of the Streights, cor-
rc6\ei\ according to their obfervations.
It may be conje*Slured, and indeed with great appearance of
probability, that the Malouine Iflands formerly made a part of
Patagonia and Terra del Fucgo, and that they were feparated
from them by violent earthquakes, which opened a pafl'age for
the Tea through a cleft caufed by the eruption, and formed in
time the channel, by which thofe iflands are divided from the
continent. This conjeflure is the more reafonable, as the Terra
del Fuego took its name from the volcanos, which were fuppofed
to have been feen there, and as at fome diftance from that par€
of the Malouine Iflands, where we have made our fettlement,
the hills and vallies (hew clearly, by the diforder of the beds of
free flone, and the irregular heaps in which they lie, that this
confufion is the efTeft of earthquakes. See what is faid on this
fubjcdt in my Journal.
But what will adonifli the Reader is, that a country fo exten-
five as the Malouines fliould neither be inhabited by men, nor by
any of thofe quadrupeds, which are commonly met with among
the Patagonians ; and that the fmall fpider with long legs, which
is called in France Faucbeufi^ and the little brown cri ' et TalJed
Cri-crit which is alfo found in chimneys, are the only two infefls
we faw there. It is lefs wonderful, that we fliould not meet
with any of the reptile fpecies, as travellers aflTure us, that there
are none to be found in the territory of Chily, which lies to the
Weft of Patagonia, in the fame parallel with the Malouine
Iflands.
Another motive, which induces me to believe, that the Ma-
louines were originally joined to Patagonia, is, that there are no
trees on them, and that the whole coafl: to the Eaft of the Pata-
gonians, and of Terra del Fuego, is without trees, to about 25
~ kague*
I
^ PREFACE.
leagues up the country. At that diftancc Tome trees begui to
appear, but from thence to the fea fide there h nothing to be
found but fhrubs and heath. It is the fame on the Malouines.
The difcoveries which the Englifli, who have fettled mbrfc to the
Wef-, may make 6n that fide, will give us more light into thefe
particulars. The Spaniards, who have fucceeued my countrymen
in :he Eaflern settlement will inform us with regard to thofe
parts. •* 1* ■■"^*^''»-";»**'^i'*'^ fii'.if; I. - >^ .Oft::-'", •,.:; n •; .T"'-'*'''! . ':!
The exa6hiefs of the plana and charts, as well as that of th«
figures of animals in the plates of ray Journal, may be depended
upoh. The chart I give of the Rio de la Plata is the more in-
terefting as it was taken with the utmoft accuracy, and as it is
the only one of that river, the navigation of which is fo dan-
gerous*' ■^*'"' ^^■i^irf^%nt:^i'n'i(yi ::di tifju "turn -^Tf ; .. >! o;-,,:;'! '■
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INTRO-
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Af^'tlER We" i)eac6 was' ctJricruW By a ceffibn of all
Canada on the part of France to England, M. de Bou-
gainville, Knight of St. Loui?, and Colonel of infantry,,
conceived the defign of indemnifying France for this lofs, if pof-
fible, by; a difcovery of the fouthern continent, and of thofe
large iflands, which lie in the way to it, A perufal of admiral
Anfon's voyage round the world fixed his ideas for finding the
Malpuine Iflands, and determined him to make them .>e firft
ohjedl of his expedition, and to form a fettlement there; He
eommunicated hi§ proje'^ to the miniftry, who approved it. To
earry it therefore into execution, M. de Bougainville caufed a
^igate an4 a Hoop to be built at St. Malo at his own expence,>
under the dire^ions of the Sieurs Guyot du Clos and Cheiart
de la Gyraudais, who were to have the command of them under
him* But bein§ defirous to' make the execution of his defign as.
advantageous as polTibJe, and imagining that I might be of fer-
vicc to him in that refpeft, he propofed to jne, juft before he
quitted Paris, to undertake the voyage with him. A few days
after, I received the King's orders in a letter from the Duke de
Choifeul, minifter for the marine department, to embark with-
M. de Bougainville. I made my difpofitions immediately for the
voyage, and fet off with him for St. Malo.
Thofe, who are acquainted with the fituation of the Malouine
Iflands, will applaud the projc6t of M. de Bougainville j but few
people have heard of thofe iflands, becaufe they were almoft
unknown. Some navigators had feen them, but, I think, I may
aflert, that no one before ourfelves had ever landed there, at Icaft
in the part where we did. For this reafon it will be proper to
give feme idea of the difcovery of them from the accounts givea
by authors of cftabliftied reputation*
■:■■-,..■. , * " ,- ' , Frezier,,-
Vlli
INTRODUCTION.
t
tS iS
Frezier, in his relation du Foyagt k Mer du Sud, printed
in 4to, Paris 171 6, p. 264, exprefles L.tnfelf thus: " If in this
chart I have fuppreft fome fuppofed countries, I have added
others which are real, in the latitude of 51 degrees, and 40 which
I have given the name of new IJlands j becaufe they have been
difcovered fince the year 1700, the greatefl; part of them by the
lliips of St. Malo. I have placed them according to the reports
of the Maurepas and St. Louis, Aiips belonging to the India
Company, which had a near view of them, and the latter even
took in frefh water there from a pond, which I have marked near
Port St. Louis. The water here was reddifh and fomewhat
infipid, in other refpefls good for the Tea. Both thefe vefiels
paffed them in different parts, but the one which kept clofeft
along the coaft was the St. John Baptift, commanded by Dou-
blet of Havre, who attempted to pafs through an opening he faw
towards the middle of them ; but perceiving fcveral froall iflands
juft rifing to the furface of the water, he thought proper to
tack about. This clufler of iflands is the fame which was dif.
covered by Fouquet of St. Malo, and to which he gave the
name of Anican, his owner. The routs I have traced will fliew
the bearing of thefe lands from the Streights of Le Maire, in her
paflage from which the St. John Baptift faw them, and from
Statenland, which the two other (hips had had a prolped of
before they found it. /
The northern part of thefe lands, which is here called the
the Coa/h of the Afjumpt'ion^ was difcovered the 16th of July 1708,
by Pore of St. Malo *, who named it after the fliip he failed in.
It was thought to be a new land, at the diftance of about a hun-
dred leagues eaft of the new iflands I am fpeaking of; but I
• ... ■ , •-' have
* It appears that Pore was not acquainted with the fituation of the coafts of
the Patagonians, nor that of the new or Malouine lfl:inds, or that he was miflakca
in his point. Thefe iflands are in faiSt no more than 90 or ico leagues dif^anc
from the Streights of Magellan; how then could they be at the diftance of 100
leagues Weft of the coaft of the AHumption, as it is called by Pore ? If he had
known the fituation of the Malouine iflands, he would have feen clearly by the
latitude and longituJe of the coail he ran along, that it could be no other than
the coaft of thofe iflands.
INTRODUCTION.
have made no fcruple of joining it with them, having convincing
reafons to juftify my opinion.
The firft is, that the latitudes obferved on the North and South
of thefe iflands, and the bearing of the known parts* anfwer per-
feftly to the fame point of reunion on the Eaft fide without
leaving any fpace between them. The fecond, that there is no
reafon to imagine this coaft lies eaftward of the ides of Anican.
For M. Gobien of the St. John, who was pleafed to communicate
to me an extra6b of his journal, fuppofes it to lie South of the
river Plata*; which account, taken ftridlly, will not admit of its
being at a greater diftance than two or three degrees eaftward,
that is to fay, five and twenty or thirty leagues f. But the dif-
ference of computations is always a mark of uncertainty. The
firfi; time they faw this coaft on their paflage from Saint Cathe-
rine's to the Brafils,'they reckoned it at 329 degrees; the fecond,
in pafling from the river Plata, where contrary winds obliged
them to put in, after having tried to pafs Cape Horn : they fup-
pofed it at 322 degrees, and according to fome 324; following
the charts of Peter Goos, the errors of which we have taken
notice of, fo that little regard ought to be paid to them.
However, as they relied upon them, they thought themfelves at
a great diflance from the Continent, and reckoning that they
were too far eaftward, ran three hundred leagues loo far to Weft
in the South Sea, infomuch that they imagined themfelves on the
coaft of Guinea, when they landed at Ylo. But the third and
convincing
* The fuppofition of M. Gobien, of the St. John, is falfe, in placing this
coaft of Aflumption South of the river Plata. We were on ihore there, as he
was, and in the fame place, according to Frezier's chart, and found it by our com-
putation about 64 degrees and a half W. longitude from the meridian of Paris, and
the mouth of the river Plata 56° 30' ; which carries that part of the coaft where
M. Gobien and we landed eight degrees farther S. W. and anfwers nearly to the
miftake attributed by the author of Admiral Anfon's Voyage (p. 78.) to Frezier's
chart in regard to the fituation of the coaft of Patagonia.
t If we place the. coaft of the Aflumption three degrees farther to the Weft,
it will be more conformable to our eftimation, which makes our landing place four
degrees, or thereabouts, more to Weft than it would be according to Frezier's
chart, which is formed on the extract M. Gobien furnifhed him with from hie
own journal.
C
3r INTRODUCTION.
convincing argument is, that we ought to pafs to windward of
this new land according to the longitude it was placed in, in the
manufcript chart; and that it is morally impoffible any fliip
could pais without feeing it, it being about 50 leagues in length;
from E. S. E, to W. N. W. No doubt therefore remains, that
this was the northern part of the new iflands, the weftern part of
which will be difcovered in time, but is yet unknown.
Thefe iflands are certainly the fame, which were difcovered by
Sir Richard Hawkins in 1 593, to the eaft of the uninhabited coaft,
and in 50 degrees latitude. He was thrown by a ftorm on an
unknown land : he ran along the coaft about fixty leagues, and
faw fires, from whence he concluded the place was inhabited *.
Hitherto thefe lands have been called Sebald's Iflands, it being
fuppofed that the three which go under this name in the charts
were fituated there at pleafure, for want of a proper knowledge
of them. But the fliip L' Incarnation, commanded by the Sieur
Brignon of St. Malo, took a near view of them in fine weather
in the year 1711, on her departure from Rio Janeiro. They are
in fadt three fmall iflands -f- of about half a league in length,
; ranged
• I do not know whether the iflands, which SirRkhard Hawkins faw in 159J,
to the Eaft of the defart coaft of Patagonia, in 50 degrees S. latitude, are the northern
part of the new or Malouine Iflands. We ran fixty degrees at leaft along the
coaft, as well as he, and faw no fire, or appearance of habitation, though we were
very often at no greater diftance than that of half a league or a league.
t At our landing we difcovered three iflands about half a league in length, pretty
high, and forming a kind of triangle, agreeable to the account of Sebald's Iflands.
This refemblance in pofition and figure made us take them at firft for Sebald's
Ifldiids ; but we difcovered near them feveral fmall flat iflands, almoft even with
the furface of the water, of which no mention is made in the Sieur Brignon's
journals, nor in thofe of other people, who fpeak of Sebald's Iflands. A few hours
after, having difcovered other eminences, one behind another, we judged that thefe
three iflands were not Sebald's Iflands, but fome of the Malauines, which ftand
out !v fore the principal' one, and we found rcafon to confirm ourfelves in this
opinion. If thefe three iflands were really Sebald's Iflands, they would be about
two leagues diftance from land, or the principal ifland, and not feven or eight,
as Frexier fays. See the chart of our route along the coaft. However in the two
voyages of the Eagle and the Siar Pink, which have taken a later view of thefe
three iflands in their pafl'age from the Malouines to the Straits of Magellan, the
Eagle in 1765, and the Eagle with the Star in 1766 ; thefe veflcls found no more
iflands than thofe three, and have fince looked upon them to be Sebald's Iflands.
'.i
INTRODUCTION.
XI
ard of
in the
y fliip
length
iS, that
part of
;red by
i coaft,
on an
zs, and
:ed*.
it being
5 charts
Dwledge
le Sieur
weather
'hey are
length,
ranged
r in 1593,
e northern
along the
h we were
gth, pretty
I's Iflands.
}r Sebald's
even with
Brignon's
few hours
that thcfe
hich ftand
ves in this
be about
I or eight,
in the two
:w of thefe
gellm, the
no more
Iflands.
ranged in ^ triangular form, as they are reprefented in the charts.
They pafTed at the diftancc of three or four leagues from them,
and faw no land, though the weather was very fine, which is a
proof that they are feparated from the new idands by at leafl
feven or eight leagues. ..,;.><,:,.. ,..i..r . ..,. . , r _
In the memorial prefented to the Compagnie des Indes by the
Sieur de Lozier Bouvet in the year 17351 foliciting their aflift-
ance in furnifhing him the means of obferving the countries
difcovered by Gonneville, he reports, among other advantages of
the eftablifliment they might form there after that obfervation,
the opportunities of fixing an immediate commerce with the
Spaniards of the river Plata and the Portuguefe of Brafil. He
even aflerts, that the fhips, in putting into the fouthern coafts,
would fleer very little out of their ordinary courfe for India.
By the edablifhment we have made on the Malouine Illands *
we have put the India Company, and all the French navigators
in the moft favourable fituation for accompliftiing thefe two
objeds. The Malouine Iflands are not near fo far to the South :
the climate is much more temperate j they fland more convenient
for the river Plata and the Brafils ; more in the neighbourhood
of Magellan's lands and Patagonia, with the inhabitants of which
it would be fo much the more eafy to fix a commerce, as they
are already acquainted with the Europeans by the traffic they
carry on with the Spaniards.
Let us confider the fituation of the fouthern lands difcovered
by Monficur de Gonneville, a gentleman of Normandy. In
1503 he fitted out a vefTel at Honficur, and fet fail in the month
of June for the Eaft Indies. After doubling the Cape of Good
Hope, and meeting with a guft of wind, which was fucceeded
by calms, he thought of nothing but gaining fome land, where
he might recover the fatigues of the voyage. He had the good
fortune to difcover fome, and called them the South Indies. He
lay there fix months, during which time he refitted, formed an
C 2 intercourfe
* Since this journal was written, France has ceded the Malouine Iflands to
Spain.
xu
I N T R O I> U C T I O N.
intercourfe with the natives, and eftabllfhed himfelf To far in their
confidence, that their King, Arofca, trufted his fon Eflbmeric ta
him to make the voyage of France, on condition that he fliould
bring him back in twenty months. Gonneville failed from thence
the third of July 1504 laden with the produce of the country.
In the Channel he met with an Englifh privateer, which took him,
and carried him into Guemfey. This unlucky accident pre-
vented his arriving in France till the year 1505$ where he made
his complaint and declaration to the admiralty at Honfleur. No-
advantage was made at that time of M. de Gonneville's difcovery ;
who to make amends to Eflbmeric for not being able to keep
his word with him, married him to one of his relations, and left
him at his death half his fortune.
The Sieur Bouvet, who had fome notion of this difcovery, pre*
fented a memorial to the Compagnie des Indes, who fitted out two
(hips for him, the Eagle, and Mary, with which he failed from
rOrient the 19th of July 1738. The 26th of November he got
into 35 degrees South latitude and 344.° longitude from the
French meridian. Here he began to meet with fogs, which con-
tinued almoft conftantly while the two fliips remained in com-
pany. They were often fo thick, that the Eagle's crew could not
difcover the Mary at the diftance of mufquet (hot; fo that
they had the greateft difficulty to keep together. The 3d of
December, being in 39 degrees 20 minutes latitude, and 351
longitude, they began to difcover fome fearweed, and more birds
than ordinary, which made them imagine they were not far from
land : they therefore took all the precautions neceflary in fuch
circumftances. The 5th, they found themfelves in 42 degrees 40
minutes latitude, and 354* longitude. Tiie 7th, in 44 latitude,
and 355 longitude. The loth, 44" latitude, and the fird meri-
dian, where feveral geographers place the neareft point of the
Southern Continent. The j 2th, they made 7 degrees longitude j
the 15th, 48 degrees, 50 minutes latitude, which is equal to that
of Paris, in 7° longitude. Here they faw ice, which they looked
upon as a certain indication of land. They even obfcrved a
change
INTRODUCTION.
xia
change in the colour of the Tea, and faw a great number of
Puffins, and other birds, feveral of which flapped their wings,
like land birds. They perceived Penguins alfo, an amphibious
bird, a defcription of which is given in my journal. In proportion
as they got farther to the South, the ice increafed. The 1 6th
they faw Penguins again, and a fea wolf j the fogs and ice pre-
vented their rifmg to the 54th degree of latitude before the lafl:
day of December. At length, on the firfl: of January, about three
in the afternoon, they difcovered a high land, covered with fnow,.
and very foggy, which they took for a large head>land, and called
it Cape Circumcifion. It lies, according to the account of the Sieur
Bouvet, in 54 degrees South latitude, and from 27 to 28 degrees
longitude from the French meridian. The 6th, they faw a pro-
digious quantity of birds, of a very fine white, and of the fize
of pigeons : they thought they faw land at the diflance of one
or two leagues. The next day they perceived a new land, nearly
North North Eaft of Cape Circumcifion. They continued in
fearch of it till the 9th, at four in the moining, when the
weather being fair and the fog gone off, they found that the
fuppofed land was nothing more than a mift.
From the time they came within fight of land, they had reaped
no other benefit from it than that of concluding, that it extended
from eight to ten leagues E. N. E. and from fix to f-ven leagues
Eafl-. They had not been able to difcover even, whether what
they faw was an ifland, or whether it made part of the Con-
tinent. At length the bad weather came on, the feafon was
advanced, and the crew were in a bad ftate of health. All thefe
confideiations induced M. de Lozier Bouvet to take the refoiution
of going to fee for feme place to put in at, which might be more
eafy and more convenient for their landing. He took his courle
with a view of finding the place where GonnevlHe had landed ';
which, according to the account of it, is. fituated in a latitude
equal to that of fome of the provinces of. France. The nioft
northern lie in 51 degrees, which is the latitude of the Malouine
Iflands. He made therefore for the parallel fiom 51 to 52, and
palled
mf
tW-
INTRODUCTION.
pafTcd it with the fame inconveniencies, without reaping any kind
of advantage. They reckoned themfclves in 51° longitude, when
they were really in 55°, as they found on landing at the Cape of
Good Hope. They kept the Cape to the North of them, and
continued that courfe till the 5th of February, when the two
vcffels feparated, the Mary fleering for the Cape with M. Bouvet,
and the Eagle for the ifle of France with Mr. Hay.
M. Bouvet left the Cape of Good Hope the 31ft of March, on
his return to France, and in his route faw Trinity Ifland in 351
degrees longitude from the meridian of TenerifF, and 348° 30'
from the French meridian, 20 degrees 20 minutes latitude. He
likewife faw the ifle of Afcenfion, which he places in 349 degrees
longitude. He fays, that Trinity Ifland is^ without that name,
very well defcribed by the Flambeau Angloi:. After we had got,
fays M. Bouvet, within gun fliot of this ifland, we faw three-
fourths of it diftindly. It is properly fpeaking, nothing more
than a rock inacccflible on all fides. There are four little iflands
between 8 and 9 leagues Eafl: of it. Oliver de Noort, who had
the command of four Dutch ftiips in 1^99, followed this parallel
of 20 degrees 20 minutes from this ifland as far as the coafl of
Brazil, and found no other in his courfe. This has made it
imagined, that what is called Martin de Vaz's Ifland, and the
Ifland of Alj;enrion are the fame with Trinity Ifland*, which
goes under thefe three different names. We have been more
fortunate in our enterprize than M. Bouvet was in his. The
fettlement we made at the Malouine Iflands would anfwer all the
purpofes of that he defigned to make on the Southern Continent,
if
* What M. Bouvet fays here of Trinity Ifland is very conformable to what we
/iw near the ifland of Afcenfion, which is recounted in this journal, on 27th April
1764. But though their ficuation in refpedl of latitude docs not differ more than
12 minutes, the longitude is abfolutely different; fince, according to his cftimation,
Trinity Ifland is at 348 degrees 30 minutes from the French meridian, which
anfwers to about 10 degrees from the meridian of Paris. While we were recon-
noitring the ifland of Afcenfion, I eftimated its fituation at 32 degrees 25 minutes
from the latter meridian. It (hould follow from thence that Trinity Ifland and the
Ifland of Afcenfion are really diftinit itom each other j which is contrary to the
cpinion of feveral navigators. 7
INTRODUCTION.
sv-
if the India Company's fhips would take their route by the
South Sea to China, the Philippine Iflands, &c. and for the
South Sea trade. The author of Anfon's Voyage exprefles him-
felf upon this point in the following manner page 54 &c feq.
4to edition, printed for Charles Anthony Jombert. *• I have
proved above, that all our future expeditions to the South Seas
muft run a confiderable rifque of proving abortive, whilft we are
under the necelTity of touching at Brazil in our paflage thither i
an expedient therefore, that might relieve us from this difficulty,
would furely be a fubjeft worthy of the attention of the public."
We may add, that this port is too far from the neareft that can
be found in the South Sea to be of fufficient advantage. We put
into St. Catherine's as well as Admiral Anfon: we had not
indeed, like him, reafon to complain of the reception we met
with; on the contrary, we owe our acknowledgements to the
Governor, as will be feen in this journal j but the other incon-
veniences of this harbour are fuch as he has reported them. The
unhealthy air and perpetual fogs, which are found there, are
enough to create a difguft.
" The beft method of effefting this, (fays the fame author)
would without doubt be by a difcovery of fome place more to
the fouthward, where fliips might refrefli, and fupply themfelves
with the neceflary fea flock for their voyage round Cape Horn.
And we have in reality the imperfed knowledge of two places,
which might perhaps, on examination, prove extremely con-
venient for this purpofe : the firft of them is Pepys's Ifland * in
the latitude tof 47 degrees South, and laid down by Dr. Halley
about eighty leagues to the eaftward of Cape Blanco, on the
coaft of Patagonia; the fecond is Falkland's Illes in the latitude
of 51° f nearly South of Pepys's Ifland. The firft of thefe was
• ' ' ' dil'covered
• In the fecond voyage to the Malouines M. de Bougainville endeavoured for
fcvcral days, without fuccefs, to find this fuppofed Pepys's Ifland : the fame
attempt was made in the third voyage, and proved equally unfucccfsful.
t Note of the tranftator. The original Englilh fsys 5i'> .;. The reft, there being
no very material difference, is copied verbatim from the original".
i
I i>
I i
XVI
INTRODUCTION.
lunteers and paflenfgcrS; and, fw my part, I would much rather
have ftaid in France, than have embarked on fuch conditions.
All this difcourfe was reported to M. de Bougainville, who.
was piqued a* it^ and with rcafon.i Theft: Acadian families had.
lived at St. Servant, and St. Malo, ever flnce the. Englifli took
Acadia from us. The King allowed them fo much a head, in the
fame manner as his regular troops ; and thefe families had fcarce
any other refource than this (ort of pay and their own labour..
M.de Bougainville offered td take them on board with him, and to
carry them to « country where he would give them a landed pro-
perty, and many other advantages, which they could never expc;^
in France. He had even furnifned them with goods and money in
advance. Upon the report tliat was made to him of the difcourfe
of this Acadian, he faid, there was nothing more to be done tlian
to
6
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
to fet them on fhore, and fend them back to St. Servant j fincc
they were fond of mifcry, they might go there and enjoy it. As
foon as this was told to the other families, it made fo great an
impreflion on them, that the women burft into tears, and the
men upbraided the Acddian, who had been the caufe of it, and
a difagreemcnt among them enfued. Of this M. de Bougain-
ville was foon informed. The next day, the 2i(k, after prayers,
he called them all before him; there are^ faid he, fome difcon-
tented perfons among you, who repent of having embarked with
me. I do not require you to do the duty of common failors : I
did not take you on board with me upon that footing ; but, at
the fame time, I did not mean that you fliould confider your-
felvcs as mere pafTcngers, and not lend a hand upon occafion.
You are at liberty to go back to St. Malo, St, Servant, or what-
ever place you think fit ; you have only to fpeak, and you will
be fet on fhore immediately.
The Acadian and his father declared, they chofe to return to
St. Servant. The two other families defired to go the voyage.
Early in the afternoon the father, the fon and his wife were
landed near St. Caft, with their effedls -, and M. de Bougainville,
out of charity, left them the money he had obtained in advance
for them from the King. The othc; two families were rejoiced
at this feparation and congratulated each other upon their depar-
ture. The wife was of a peevifh temper, and her huiband was
fo jealous of her, that he would fcarce leave her an inflant ; he
watched even her flighteH; motions, and would infallibly have
difturbed the good underftanding they were defirous of preferv-
ing among themfelves. A perfeft union prevailed between the
two families, that made the voyage with us, and were landed
and fettled by us on the Malouine Iflands. One of them con-
fided of a man, his wife, two children, one a boy of three years
old, the other a girl of one year, and two fitters of the wife, one
twenty, and the other fevcnteen. The other family was com-
pofed of a man, his wife, a boy of four years old, and the wife's
fifter,
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
return to
fifter, about fixtecn. The wife was ready to lie in, when we
left the ifland on our return to France.
In the morning of the 23d of September, the wind got to E. N. E.
an eafy gale. As it Teemed (teddy in that point, M. Ducios our
Captain made a fignal to bring in our long-lx)at, and yawl, which
were on fhorc, the long boat to get water, and the yawl to fetch
the Tailors, and the women that waihed the linen. M. de Bou*
gainville, M. de Belcourt, M. I'Huiliier, and M. Donat were out
in purTuit of game, near two leagues up the country, and pro-
posed to dine at the Caflle of la Latte, where M. Mauclair and
myfelf expeded them till half part two. M. Ducios Teeing that
none of them came on board fired a gun, which haftened the
return of our Tportfmen j but as the time prefied, and they had
dined in the country, they would not make any (lay at the cadle
of la Latte. We Tent the dinner on board again, where M,
Mauclair, and I contented our(elves with a Tmgle glaTs tin
fupper.
At three, Tignal was given to the Sphinx to weigh anchor.
At fix, our boats being embarked, we Tet Tail from Cape Frehel j
and after Tevcral tacks to double the caftle of la Latte, at nine
we were North and South of the point of the Cape.
On Monday, the 25th, about four in the afternoon, we threw
out a line with a double hook. The hook was Tcarcely in the
water, before a (ifli, in (liape and colour reTembling a mackrel,
bit at it, and was taken. It weighed about thirty pounds, and
had not two handfuls of entrails, liver, &cc. All the reft was Tolid
fle(h, like that of the thunny, of which it had the colour and
flavour. An excellent Toup was made of it the next day. Seve-
ral, (lices of it were brought up with different fauces, and we
found it very good : it is fomewhat dry, but not To much as the
bonito. It is called by the French, Grand-Oreille.
The hook, with which it was caught, was not baited with
fle(h, fifli, or any infe6lr It is compofed of two (lems of iron,
about the thicknefs of the quill of a pen, fattened together. They
cover this double (liank with tow, To as to give it the form of a
E
Tpindle :
I iiJ
8 JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
fpindle : the tow is covered with a piece of ftrong white cloth
and a plate of lead ; to this they join two or four white feathers
from the wing of a goofe or fowl, placing them in fuch a man-
ner as to refemble fins when extended. In this flate, the hook
has nearly the appearance of a flying fidi. The end of tlie
iliank is turned in a ring, through which they put a brafs wire
of almofl the fame thicknefs, and about two feet and a half in
kngth } the whole of this is thrown into the water, being faHiencd
to a cord about the thicknefs of one's little finger, and of the
length of twelve fathom. One end of tbis cord is fattened to the
Hern of the fhip ; the other, where the hook is, drags at a great
diftance in the track of the Hiip.
We continued our voyage for feveral days without any thing
remarkable, wind varying, and weather generally ftormy. We
faw feveral fliips at a diftance, which we took to be on their
return from the cod fifhery on the banks of Newfoundland. One
of them brought to, and fpoke with us. .iiq; , ^
On the 2d of Oftober, about nine in the morning, we defcried
a veflfel without mafts, and bore down upon her in order to giva
her what afTiftance we could. At ten we fpoke with her. She
proved to be a Dutch Merchantman of Amilerdam ; (lie was
coming from Curafol, and meeting with a guft of wind at about
a hundred leagues from Bermudas, they were obliged to cub
away the mizzen and main maft. We inquired if they were in
want of any thing j they anfwered, that they had five French'
ladies on board whom they were carrying to France, but that
they could not put their boat to fea. We acquainted them, that?
we were juft come from France, and fliould not return thither
for feveral months, for which reafon we could not take charge
of the ladies j but if they were in want of any thing elfe, they
might come and fetch it. They again told us, that they could.
Hot put tlieir boat to lea. The lea indeed ran high, and we not
caring to expofe ours to it, wiflicd them a better voyage anck
contiJiued our courfe S, W. 4 W..
6 Tho
if -i
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 9
The 5th, at break of day we difcovcred a fail. We were in
thofe latitudes, where the Sallee Rovers fometimes cruize ; and
we knew, they had a Frigate at fea, called the Bird, of 36 guns
and 300 men, which the Englifh had fold to the Salletines, and
they had given the command of it to a renegade captain of
Provence, a good fcaman and of approved courage. They had
alfo a floop of 12 guns and a hundred men. In confequence of
this, the commandant of our two frigates had ilfucd out ordeis,
that they might be able to aft in concert, in cafe of an attack.
The plan of the engagement was fixed up ; the guns and fmall
arms were prepared ; every man repaired to the port allotted
him, and we bore down. It was fettled, that if this was the
Salletine frigate, the Sphinx fhould hoift Englifh colours, and
feem to make all the fail fhe could to get under the fire of the
frigate, to avoid falling into our hands. We in confequence
were to hoift French colours, and make a fliew of purfuing the
Sphinx, firing at her at the fame time as if to bring her to. As
foon as the Salletine frigate (hould be got between the Sphinx
and us, the Sphinx was to hoift French colours, and then make
her a compliment of her whole broadfide, fo that ihe fhould find
herfelf between two fires. It was hoped, that by this manoeuvre,
we might make up for our want of numbers, and fliatter her fo
by a vigorous attack, that (he (hould be obliged to ftrike.
Our men were brave fellows, arid difplayed at this time an air
of gaiety and refolution. They had indeed a great confidence in
the Ikill and courage of our captains, and other officers, with
whom they had made cruizes in the laft war, and under whofe
command they had taken many prizes, and had even made
themfelves mafters of fome Englilh fliips at dofe quarters.
As we neared the ihip we had feen, we thought we could
difcover that fhe was Englifh built. But as we knew, the
Englifh had fold feveral fhips to the Salletines j and this, not-
withftanding we bore down upon her, hoifted no colours, we
took her for a Salletine fcout. On this we fired a gun, and ad-
vanced upon her. Still ihe hoifted no colours. We now fired a
E 2 loaded
II
10
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
loaded gun, and it is probable (he felt the wind of the ball. She
then lay to for a moment, and afterwards ftood for us, without
hoifting. When flie was got pretty near, (he hoified Englilh
colours, and palled fo clofc to us, that we difcovered the capiain
to be the fame Guernfey man, wiio ferved as pilot to the Englilh
in the laft war, when they made their defcenta at Caiicale and
St. Cas. The ufual queftions were put to him in French, as,
from what port, and whither he was bound, and what was the
name of his fliip. He made no anfwer. M. de Belcourt took
the fpeaking trumpet, and put the fame queftions to him in
Englilh, with all the cmbelUniments of the emphatic fea ftyle,.
adding, that he deferved to have had his iliip funk for not hoift-
ing, after having been twice fired at. To this he replied in
Englilh, and alledged, that his colours had been entangled
among the goods. It proved to be a merchant (hip with two
marts, bound, as he told us, from Lifbon to St. Michael's, one
of the Azores. , " ; .• ; ; .
The 8 til in the morning being calmed, we fent out our cutter"
for M. de la Gyraudais, captain of the Sphinx. He came on
board us at ("even. M. de Bougainville, and M. du Clos our
captain, had a conference with him. He received orders for his
rendezvous in cafe of feparation, and exact drawings of the places
we were to touch at, and of thofe we expedlcd to find in our
courfe. M. de la Gyraudais returned to his own (hip about nine.
The 9th and 10th, the calms continued with fogs, and feme
rtorms of rain. The i ith the fame. The currents here feem to-
nni North ; as may be coi^jefturcd from the difference we found
between our reckonings and obfervation of ycfterday and to-day,
in whith time we had made feveii leagues and a half of way.
The 13th in the morning, the fea being fallen after a ftorm
which roie the evening before, we caught three filh called bonitos.
Tiierc were net le(s than fifteen of them and two gold fifli, play-
hvj, ahout on the fbarboard of our ftern. We faw at the fame
time fome other fiilics which go under the name of pilots. Ojie
of thefe was taken in a net i the bonitos were caught with a
line.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. u
line, baited with the figure of a flying fi(h. Thefe weighed each
of them about twenty pounds ; the pilot was not more than eight
inches long.
The 14th, being between 29' and 30° latitude, we expefled to
meet with the trade winds, of which we had hitherto had no
figns. Some of our failors, who had the molt experience, had
allured us they were commonly found under this parallel. M. de
Bougainville was fo impatient for them, that he never ftirred out
of his cabin without going to examine the compafs. He was
obliged however to put up with fuch winds as happened to blow.
At two in the afternoon, the Sphinx, which was to caftward
of us, attracted our attention by hoifting a white flag at the
foreniaft head, wliich was the fignal agreed upon in cafe of feeing
land. We a;ifwered her with the fame lignal, and found it to
be Palm Ifland, the fartheft to the North Weft of the Canary
Illands. It bore E. S. E. of us by the compafs, and appeared to
us, at about 15 or 18 leagues diftance, in the forni it is reprc-
fcnted in the plate. :,,^,;-' . -•• '• . '•■ •
We difcovered another at the fame time, more to the South
Weft, which exhibited nearly the figure B.
The fight of thefe Iflands was of ufe in coiTe6ting our reckon-
ings and obfervations, and we found that we were about 20
leagues farther Weft than we had reckoned.
The 16th, at three in tlie afternoon, we made a fignal to the
Sphinx, that we were going to make all our fail ; which we had
not hitherto done fince our departure, in order that flie might be
able to keep up with us. The Sphinx was not near fo ;aft a
failer as our fliip, and had kept us back at leaft a hundred
leagues ; but we did not choofe to quit company fooner, for fear
of meeting with the Sallee Rovers, which would have required
our mutual afiillance to extricate us from them. At this time
that we had got out of the latitudes, in which they cruize, \vc
refolved to ftretch away for the place of rendezvous ; that by
arriving there as foon as poflible, we might have ail the refrtfli^
mems
»•
J2
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
i
' (M
\>h
lii
ments, which the Sphinx might Hand in need of, ready agalnd
licr coming in, by which means our ftay might be fliortened.
As foon as the Sphinx had anfwcred our fignal, we fet more
fails, the wind blowing frcHi, and by fix o'clock in the evening
(lie was at Icall three leagues a flcrn of us ; and before next
morning we loft fight of her.
On the J 8th and 19th, we faw a great number of flying fiflies.
They were purfued by thunnies and gold fidi, which fprang three
or four feet out of the water to feize them. We threw out
fcver'.l hooks, but not one of them would bite.
During great part of both thefe days, our weather had been
very ftoi my and the fea ran high. On the morning of the 20th,
a calm fucceeded, with fome rain at intervals.
Thefc calms and the winds which never blew frefli, and were
continually changing, did not promife us a fhort trip. Wc
began all of us to be impatient at not meeting with the trade
winds, which would have been fo ufeful, and were fo much the
object of our wiflies. M. de Bougainville particularly exclaimed
againft all former navigators, who have laid it down as a cer-
tainty, that thofe winds never fail to blow in thefe latitudes.
He told us, that, as we had experience of the contrary, he was
refolved on his relurn to Paris, to prefent a memorial to the
Academy of Sciences, to prove the non-exiftence of trade winds ;
at leaft, the little dependence that navigators ought to have on
what is related of their conftant influence.
The 2 1 ft in the afternoon, we faw a great number of flying
fifliea', and of their enemies the bonitos, gold fifh, and thunnies.
The morning of the 2 2d prefented us with about half a fcore
of flying fifli, which attempting to fly over the frigate had fallen
foul of the fails, and dropped upon deck. They were drefled
for dinner, and we found them extremely good and very delicate
eating. I kept one in oidcr to paint it from the life, the figure
of it is to be found in the plate.
This fifli in thefe latitudes is of a fine blue on the back, wliich
fades or grows flronger infenfibly towards the bottom of the
belly,
"^O TI/ : M.AT OUINE ISLANDS.
»3
which
of (he
bdly,
fcelly, icie the lour is a blue with a filver cafh Jts wings
•re fill >f a gi-e«^cr length, which in general extend as far as
the ta , buf in me do not reach farther than tc the middle of
the body; though the fifli is of the fame fhape, length and
tliicknefs. The one, whofe figure is reprcfentcd in the plate, was
'about ten inches from oi^c extremity Ic the other.
On the 23d in the afternoon, fome of the failors feeing a
number of thunnies, got on tlie prow of the frigate with a
harpoon, and caught one of them, which weighed 72 poundsi
On a clofe examination of it, I pcixeived fome animals ftickingi
and as it were glued upon its ears. See the figure of them in
their natural fize in the plate. The figure marked D is the
upper- part of the animal, which refemblcd a compofition of
firings of catgut almoft tranfparent. Its eyes were two little
black fpots placed above the mouth B. They faften themfelves
on the thunny by means of two legs marked C, and. two others
confiderably fmaller marked D.
I took fome fea water and put it in a clean glafs tumbler, that
I might keep this animal alive and fee its motions. I perceived
in this water a black fpot, which at firfl: I took for a fpeck of-
diiti but when 1 attempted to take it out with the end of my
finger, I obferved the fuppofed atom to avoid my touch, and plunge*
under water. I attended to its motions^ and found it to be a-
living creature of the ftruclure and fise defcribed in the plate.;
It was a fpecies of cylinder formed by ten rings, (6 flight and
tranfparent, that it was necelTary to put the glafs between the
light and the eye of the obferver in order to perceive it. If
fwam by means of two long fibres B B, and two others that are
almofl: imperceptible C, which in gathering up and lengthening
out again, gave the rings of the cylinder a motion perfedtly cor-
refponding to that of a quail-pipe, or a powder-machine ufed by
hair-dreflers. The body A, was of a violet colour towards C,
and of a light brown towards B B.
We faw likewife a great quantity of flying fifli, and we caught-
with a hook a bonito and a pilot, which 1 have painted from
the. life. ,
t\ I
»4
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
V9'
The uatuialirts pretend, on the authoiity no doubt of feme
fcamen, that the pilot always goes before the (hark, and that
it is for this rcafon that tilh has obtained the name of the pilot,
as being dircdor of the other's courfii. For my own part, I
have Ibmctimcs chferved one or two pilots before or after each
fliark we caught j but we have often iccn pilots without (harks,
as well as fliaiks without pilots.
Father Feuillce, p. 173, confounds the pilot with the fucking
filli, and makes them both the fame. " The fliarks, fays he,
are accompanied by little fiO^es, which keep continually with
them, and choofc rather to fliaic their fate than to abandon
them ; they fwim always a head of them, at fuch a diftancc
that the fliarks cannot catch them, which has procured them the
name of pilots. We did not catch a fingle fliark without find-
ing fome of thcfc fmall fifties flicking to his back, by means of
a ycUowifli, cartilaginous membrane of a circular form, which
they have on the top of their heads : this membrane has an
intiiiitc number of fmall holes filled with fibres, which, to all
appearance, ferve to draw from the Ikin of the Ihark fome fub-
{\aucc for their nourifhment.
The fame author allows the fliark but three rows of teeth,
one of which, he fays, is coiMpofcd of triangular teeth, and thefe
are of a greater length than the others ; I have countexl feven
rows of them in the mouths of all the (harks we took, all of
them moveable and triangular. Nor '.vere the fuckers of thefe
fucking fjfli of a circular, but of an elliptical form, fuch as is
^efci ibed in the figure I have given of them in the fequel.
The 24th the fame winds continued, which we had had for
fome days. Thefe were in faft, the trade winds we had fo long
lookai out for, under which name are comprehended all thole
which blow f;om S. S. E. through the eafterly point to N. N. E.
inclufive. Thefe are the moll favourable winds that can blow,
for Ihips bound from Europe to South America, the windward
and leeward Iflands, and the Gulph of Mexico.
About eight in the morning on the 25th, we had fight of
land on our ftarboard fide. At noon, we judged it to be the
7 Ifland
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. is
Ifiand of Bonnvifta, one of tlic Cape de Vcrd Iflatids, fitiinfcd
North liart of St. Jngo, the largcfl and molt populous oi tludc
ides. It bore North Weft of us, about nine leagues : the fii^uic
of it, in the moll cxtnilivc view wc had, appeared according to
tlic rei>rcfcntation in the plate. ' /
This illand, like the rcU, abounds in wild horfer?, gonts, and
feveral other animals, notwiihftanding the full is rocky and
barren. It is Teen ;'.t a great dillancc by means of its vvliite tiilfi,
from which circumftance it derives its name.
Wc now found that wc were near twenty leagues farthc ejft-
ward than our reckoning.
The wind blowing frelh from N. E. to N. N. E, accompanied
with fine weather, atFordcd us a view of another of the Cape de
Verd lllands, about four o'clock in the afternoon, which goes by
the name of Mayo's Ifland. The foil here likcwife is rocky and
barren. There are ncverthelefs a great number of bulls, cows,
goats and afles. A confiderablc quantity of fait alfo is made
liert. The air is hot and unhealthy. The mofl fouthern point
of the ifland bore 8. W. ^ W. and the mofl northern W. ^ S. W,
of us, and the whole appeared as exhibited in the plate.
The 27th, after having had fome lightning in the night, and
in the morning a cloudy flcy, with a high fea, and a Tquall of
wind at half paft ten, fucceeded by a ftorm at E. S. E. which
was of fliort duration, the wind came about to the ufual points
with an eafy gale ; and about three in the afternoon, we caught
a bonito, which weighed forty pounds.
The 28th and 29th, proved very ftormy, but notwithftanding
this we were not driven out of our courfe.
On Sunday the 30th, in the morning, the iky cleared up and
the wind came fair again.
At eight o'clock, Peter Lainez of St. Malo, a cabbin boy,
about twelve years of age, going into the forccaflle fell over-
board, without any one's knowing how the accident happened.
The fecond mate, who was going a ftern, iceing him float along
the Ilarboard fide, cried out immediately, that there was one of
F ' the.
i6
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
4h
the crew oveiboaid. Wc ran at this time four knofs an lioiir,
1^itIl a quarter wind. They threw out a plank ciirc«5tly from
the litrn gallery, and whatever dte was at hand either of board
or any other buoyant materials, in hopes the poor fellow n)ight
be able to reach fome one of them, and keep himfelf by that
means above water, till the boat could be put out to take him
up. The whole crew was in motion, and every polliblc means
v\ tre ufal to ftop the flitp. Many ran up the main mart, others
got on the quarter deck, all intent on louking for, and difcover-
ing the cabbin boy. After this, the boat was put to fea, though
it was then very rough j it was manned with fix ftout failors,.
under the command of the mate, who went in fearch of the
cabbin boy to the right and left, wherever they thought they had
a chance of finding him, to the dirtancc of half a league from
the fhip, but without fuccefs. When they had been out about
tJuce quarters of an hour, a fignal was made for the return of
the boat, which was effected with much difficulty. We rc-
cnibaikeil her, and continued our route.
The names of the crew were then called over, in. order to find,
out who was the perfon miffing ; for we did not yet know that
it was the cabbin boy I have juft now mentioned. He was the
only one, that did not appear. They looked in his hammock
and fearchcd the whole fliip over for him, and not finding him
any where, it was eafy to conclude, that this Peter Lainez was-
the hand we had loft.
At four in the afternoon, after vefpers, the cloaths of the
deceafcd cabbin boy, an inventory of wlith had been taken in
tlic morning, were fold by auction. Our commandant, M. de
Bougainville, bought almofl every thing, and dillributed them
gratis among the cabbin boys, who weic Itall in a condition to
procure any for thcmfelves. The fale amounted to fifty crowns.
The 31ft, the weather was flormy at intervals, each ftorni
bting fucceeded by an almoft dead calm. During thcfe calms
we caught, in lefs than two hours, two (liarks, which weighed
about a hundred pounds each. 1 hey had both of them fiihcs
Uickin^
aJ.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
17
in lioiir,
tly from
)f board
w might
by that
lake him
k means
[, others
tliifcover-
, though
t failois,
1 of the
they had
;ue from
lit about
return of
We rc-
sr to find
now that
e was the
lammock
diiig him
inez was-
IS of the
taken in
It, M. de
ttcd them
uiition to-
y crowns,
ich ftorm
cfe calms
1 weighed
lem filhes
iVickin^
flicklnc to their bodies near the head. Thefe fifli are called
fucking fifli. I painted one after the life, in two figures j the fii il
fliews the fide of the fucker, which is upon the head; the otl vr
figure reprefents the belly of the fifli. It was fcven inches in
length.
A few hours before, fome hundred porpolfes, whofe figure
may be fecn in the phite, made their appearance within piltol
fliot, and feemed as if they had come on purpofe to amufe us.
They fprang out of the water in an extraordinary manner.
Several of them in cutting their capers, leaped at Icaft three or
four feet high, and turned round not lefs than three times in the
air, as if tliey had been on a fpit. One may judge from hence
of the ftrength of this fiih.
On the 2d of November, at three in the afternoon, a ftorm
rofe at South Eaft attended with a heavy rain. During this
ftorm one of the failors brought me a flying fi(h, eight inches
and a half long, which had juft fallen on the forecaftle. We
had feen, before the florm came on, flioals of thunnies and
bonitos. They leaped out of the water, and made the fea foara,
as if they were fighting with each other.
On the 3d, a fhark of a middling fize, and about a hundred
«nd fifty pound weight, came a ftern of us. He bit at the bait,
as foon as it was offered to him. When he was raifed out of
the water, he gave a fudden jirk, by which he difengaged himfelf
from the hook, leaving part of his jaw behind him. Not
difmayed or difheaitened by this lofs, the Qiark perceiving the
fame ' iece of bacon, which had been made ufe of as a bait for
him the ilrfl- time, thrown out again, returned to it with tlie
fame greedincfs, and fwallowed at once not only the bacon, but
the piece of his jaw, without however being caught by the hook.
Another piece of bacon was immediately pui on : the fliaik was
without doubt very hungry, for he came again to fcize that.
But as at this time there was a dead calm, and befides, tins
fifh is neither wholefome nor palatable food, inftead of endea-
vouring to take him, we amufcd ourfelves near an hour with
F 2 only
i8 JOURNAL OF MY VOYAuE
only ittting him fmell tlie bait. When he attempted to fwallow
it, we chew it uiddenly out of the water, and this was repeated
at lead a dozen times without producing the efFe6l, which is
faid to be fo common upon thefe occafions, of making the fliark,
i"])ring out of the water in order to fcize it.
Anotiicr thing I muft obferve, is, that I did not fee him turn
upon his back to fwallow the bait, but only a very little on one
fide. M. dc Bougainville, while we were amufing ourfelves in
this manner, fired at him twice with mufquet ball, but whether
he milled him, though almoft at the muzzle of his piece, or
whether the Ikin was too tough for the ball to penetrate, the
flui k was not in the leafl: diiturbed in his motions by it -, he
kejit fwimming round and round the ftern, and at laft fwal-
lowcd tliis fecond bait without being hooked. A fquall of wind
jifing about this time, we left the fliark to employ himfelf
cKewheie.
The 4th and 5th, we had ftorms and cairns at intervals. The
6th, about ten at night, we had a fquall of wind, which cleared
ihe (ky. At this time we favv fome ftars j a fight we bad not
had for near a week, the iky having been always gloomy and
covered.
Ti;e morning of the 7th, the fun rofc fine, but with fcverai
clouds fcattered round it. Before it appeared, the rays darting
upon thefe clouds exhibited one of the mod beautiful fights in
the world for variety and brightncfs of colours. I was mortified
more than can be imagined, not having it in my power to paint
fuch a day-break, which would have made a mod brilliant
picture. I have only been able to prcferve a vciy impcrft6l
Ikctch of a fetting fun, which vvc all of us admired for near half
an hour. But it is not pofiible with water colours to execute
a picture, upon which any exaCt idea of it might be formed.
'1 heff colours are too faint to cxprefs the brilliancy and luilrc,
v.itii v.hich the borders of the clouds v.cre illuminated by the
r;iyj of the iiiii. Oil colours would without doubt be Itfs
titkdtivc in the rcpreftiuation > but I had not any with me.
jjcrijtsj
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
19
I fwallovr
repeated
which is
the fliark.
liim turn
,e on one
rfelves in
t whether
piece, or
trate, the
by it; he
laft fwal-
1 of wind
y himfelf
als. The
ch cleared
! had not
lomy and
th fcveral
fs darting
fights in
moitifisd
• to paint
brilliant
imperfect
near half
o execute
e formed.
nd luihf,
I'd by the
3t be k(s
with rnc.
U
cfiJcs,
Befides, it would require a (kilful painter to execute fuch a
pidlure properly -, and I have not that qualification.
The weather continuing fine and very hot, we had all the
hammocks between decks taken down, in order to dry the cloaths
of the crew, which had been all wetted in the rainy days. This
dampnefs of cloaths is a much more immediate caufe of the
fcurvy, and many other diforders, than the fait provifions which
are ufed at fea. A captain cannot pay too great an attention to
the preferving of cleanlinefs among his crew, and to the airing
of the hammocks, cotts, &c. if he would prevent diforders. Our
captain aflured me of the truth of this obfervation, from his
own experience in the different voyages he has made to China,
India, Peru, and Canada. He told me, he had always paid
ftrift attention to this article, to which as well as to the choice
of proper food, he attributed the general good health liis crews
had enjoyed during thole voyages.
In the afternoon, we faw a large bird called by fome Goellan, or
Gull, and by others Caigmrd. At night a fingle fwallow came
and perched on the main maft yard, and the next morning con-
tinued flying round the (hip.
During the night feveral flying fifh dropped upon our deck.
They were all of that fpecies, which have the fins, that ferve
them for wings, reaching to their tail.
At five in the morning of the 9th, a bird pretty nearly of the
fize of a pigeon, but fomething longer, coming to perch on the
foremaft yard, one of" the Tailors caught him in his hand. This
bird, which I have painted, and wnofe figure in half the natural
fize may be ktn in the plate, is of a light brown inchning to
redj almoft the colour of a nut. The iargeft feathers of the
wing and tail, are of a darker brown, or rather biackifli. The .
bill is black, ftrair, and fmall, pierced through in the middle,
with a fmall protuberance bcluvv, about the length of the bird's
head. The upper part of the head near the bill is white; it then
becomes of a pearl colour, growing deeper tov/ards the neck,
which is pretty long in proportion to its thicknels. The feet are
of
1 . ■'«•»
20
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
of a dark grey, webbed like thofe of water fowl. After having
made ufe of this bird in the manner I Ihall mention hereafter,
■ M. de Bougainville gave him to me to paint. I put him in a
fmall prefs in niy cabbin, where I found him the next day very
lively, and To little alarmed at having been taken, that when I
fet him on my table, he put himfelf in the attitude, in which I
have drawn him. I gave him fome food, and he eat of it, ftill
keeping in the l^me pofturc, and continued fo for three days, by
which means I had full time to paint him to the life. Some of
our fcamen faid, it was a fpecies of the booby bird, becaufe it
fuffercd itfelf to be caught in the hand, and grew tame, as foon
as it was taken : but he had not however the crow bill, which
belongs to the booby, and has procured it the name of the duck
with the narrow bill. Our Teamen gave the fame name to ano-
ther bird alfo, very much refembling this, except that it has a
crooked bill, like that of a parrot.
About ten o'clock in the forenoon the fea appearing of a light
green caft, inftead of its ufual blue, and the colour continuing
the fame at fix in the evening, we fufpefted that this appearance
was occafioned by our being in the neighbourhood of fome land,
or fhoal. We therefore took the precaution of founding ; but
though we founded with a hundred and twenty fathom of line,
we found no botmm. Thus we were freed from the apprehen-
Cons we had encertained, and which arofe from an error of the
charts ; almort all of them placing Brazil near fifty leagues far-
ther Weft, than it is found to be by the obfervations of our
feamen. We refolved however to found a fecond time, if the
Jea had continued of the fame colour ; but as it appeared the
next morning of its ufual blue caft, we continued our courfe
without taking the trouble of founding.
Our mates, boatfwain, and thofe of the crew, who in former
voyages had palled the line, had for the laft week been making
preparations for the ceremony of Daptlfm, which is performed on
the part and in the name of the Bon-homme la ligne, to ail thofe,
who
ill
■ "w!
'tu-
TO THE M'ALOUINE ISLANDS. 21
er having
hereafter,
him in a
( "?-•■
day very
U when I
■' ''^
1 which I
'1
.f ir, flill
^-J
2 days, by
Some of
J
1
Decaufe it
S}
e, as foon
■1
ill, which
the duck
X
■'■i
e to ano-
1
: it has a
f-f
of a light
^-'B
ontinuing
Ks
ppearance
bme land.
lir'g ; UUL
n of line.
ipprehen-
'or of the
igues far-
is of our
le, if the
eared the
-^1
ur courfe
<5l
in former
• ?|
n making
armed oa
"■-■. V
ail thofe.
■^'^
who
- -M
who have never before pafled the line, without diftindion of
rank, or quality, or exception of perfon.
About feven o'clock, as we were at fupper, we heard the
fmacking of a whipi which announced to us the arrival of a
courier from the Bon-homme la iig/ie, according to cuftom, the
evening before the ceremony I juft now mentioned is to be per-
formed. This was the cocklwain properly equipped for a courier.
He knocked at the cabbin door. We called out, who is there?
A meflenger, fays he, from the Bon-homme la lignCt lord and
governor of thefe latitudes. Let him in, fays M. de Bougainville.
The door was opened, the meffenger alighted, and came in,
leaving his equipage at the door. This equipage was formed by
two failors tied back to back, and going upon all fours. One of
them had on his head a fwab, to reprefent the tail of the beaft,
the other had one for the mane, and a maflc of pafteboard in
the (hape of a horfe's head. The furniture confifted of the quarter
cloths belonging to one of the boats ; that is to fay, of a carpet,
or large piece of blue cloth, adorned with flowers de luce made
of yellow fluff.
The meflenger being introduced addrelTed our Commandant in-
the following terms : " the Bon-homme la ligney lord governor of
thefe latitudes i underftanding, that the brave Chevalier de Bou-
gainville, commander of the Eagle frigate, is arrived in his do-
minions, has ordered me to come and compliment him on his
part, to let him knov/ with how much joy he hath received the
news of his arrival, to bring the beft wiflies for his health, and
to deliver him a letter, in which my mafter harh exprefled his
own fenti merits.
M. de Bougainville read the ktter, which was conceived in the
following terms ; Bran^e Chevalier^ your illufirhii^ aSlions have ren-
dered the French name highly celebrjted in Cano '^a : your renown has
reached the latitudes over which I r 'ign, on the wings of fame, and
the hearts of my fubj^6is are fo filled with veneration for you, that the
gold fifh and bonitos, the t bunnies and porpoifes as foon as they drfcried
the frigate Eagle, which you command, came in fJioals to me yejierday
to
I' I..
\r ^A'
22
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
io aniioufice your arrhal. The joy, with which your prefence had
animated their hearts, they exprejjed by repeated bounds and leaps^
idnch they continued for a long time as they pojfed by your fAp. I
Ji'nd this ambajjador to notify to you my own particular JJ.yare in the
general joy, at the fame time that he delivers this letter into your
hands, and I hope to-morrow to acquaint you in perjon, how much 1
am ikligbted with the vifit you pay me.
Signed Bon-homme la Ligne."
Given at the 54th minute of the fiift degree of latitude, and in
29 degrees three minutes longitude, of my northern dominions,
the Qth day of November in »he year of my reign, 7763.
M. de Bougainville, when he had read :he letter, told the
envoy, that he expected to have the honour of prefenting him-
I'elf before the Bon-homme the next day, and of giving an anfwer
to his letter in perfon. Let the courier drink, added he, and
take care of his horfe : it muft be a fine one ; lead it in, I have
a great curiofity to fee it. The horfe was introduced curvetting,
tcJing his head, pawing, and neighing. As it was poflible he
might be tired with his journey, and might be thirfty, a glafs pf
wine was offered him, which he drank. The courier informed
us, that his horfe had two heads, one at his ftem and the other
at his flern, upoKi which the head at his flern alfo was treated
with a glafs of wine.
The courier, before he retired, prefented to the commandant a
bird on the part of the Bon-homme la ligne, the illuftrious pre-
lident of thcfe latitudes having requefted his acceptance of it as
a token of his goodwill and affeftion. This was the bird which
tlicy had juft before caught in the hand, and which I 'lave men-
tioned above. But as we knew nothing of this at the time, we
were not a little furprifed at the prefent. We took it at firll for
an artificial bird, till by pecking with his beak he convinced us,
that he was njt only a real bird, but alfo in full vigour. On
examination, we found it to be a frefli water bird, which ferved
only to increafe our furprize.
5 Aftei-
!' I
^i
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
^3
1
Aftei-
After flipper, we aflembled on the quarter-deck, and danced
minuets, country dances, &c. to the tabor, and after that to two
violins till near ten o'clock, when we retired to our cabbins. ' '^
Thurfday, the loth of November, at five in the morning we
pafled the line, at 29 degrees 3 minutes longitude according to
our reckoning. At ten o'clock we faw a bird called the Frigate.
This bird is frequently found at four hundred leagues diftance
from land, though it is faid not to be able to fupport itfelf on
the water without perilhing, which is the cafe with birds, that
are not ufed to live in that element. Its legs are fliort, thick,
and gathered up clofe to the body. Its feet are not webbed, but
furniflied with ftrong pointed claws. Some of them meafure
nine feet from the tip of one wing to that of the other. By the
extent of its wings when they are fpread, this bird eafily fupports
itfelf in the air,, the motion it gives them being almoft imper-
ceptible. Sometimes it rifes to fo great a height, that the
ftrongeft eye lofes fight of it. When it comes near any (hips, it
flies round the vanes of the maft head, going and returning very
frequently, but never perching on any part. The fize of it is
nearly the fame as that of a fowl. Its look is (Veady and
piercing. It darts upon its prey with an incredible fwiftnefs and
ieizes it both with its talons and bill, the upper part of which is
unciform. The males have a red granulated membrane def-
cending from their bill as far as the middle of their neck. The
feathers on the belly are of a light grey, which at a diflance
make it appear white. Thofe on the back and wings are brown.
This bird faw fome flying fifli, which he caught very artfully,
by Ikimming along the furface of the fca, while they were flying
to avoid becoming a prey to the bonitos, and other fifties, which
are enemies to them. It is faid, that he purfues the gull
likewife and other fea birds, to make them difgorge the fifh they
have fwallowed that he may feize upon them himfelf.
I do not well know for what reafon this bird is calltd the
frigate, unlefs it be by way of comparifon between the fwiftnefs
G of
H
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
" on the rope, and made
them dance for a quarter of an hou to the tabor. After this
they approached the bathing tub, ard the failor threw ftveral
buckets of water over tlietii.
G 2 This
26
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
■m
This ceremony being finiftied, the dcfccnt of tlie lord governor
of the line was announced by the throwing of white kiehiey
beans, for fugar plumbs, from the main mart top on the quarter-
deck. The Bonrhomme la ligne, preceded by his whole court,.
took the fame route as the failor and the cnbbin boys; he dcl-
cended flowly and majeftically. His court was cbmpofed of the
f'econd mate, the boatfwain, the pilot, and the gunner. TIic
firft mate reprcfented the Bon-homme la ligne. Me was covered
with white Ihcep Ikins fewed together fo as to make a garment
of one piece. His cap, which was compofed of the fame mate-
rials came down over his eyes. A quantity of tow mixed with
wool ferved him for a peruke and a beard. He had a falfe nofc
made of painted wood. Indead of a ribband, he wore acrofs
his fhoulders a firing of trucks of the parrels, as large as goofe
eggs, ,t..»rti y " ,-. • ? ." . ■».•." .,.,,f.r,.;.,n ..: • ..^ .. ... i i' , .,
His attendants were drefled up much In the fame manner.s
except that fome of them had their arms or their legs naked, and
painted red and yellow, as likewife their faces ornamented with
large black whifkers, and Ion..* wooden nofes. One carried a
mace, or club fuch as the favages ufe, another a bow, a third an
ax, and a fourth a calumet. Near the lord governor was his
chancellor bearing the fcepter, which was a fort of mop, fuch
as is ufed in fpunging a cannon, after it has been Bred. The
cockfwain drelled like a wompn, and painted with coarfe red
paint mixed up in oil, flood dofe to the Bon-homme, who called
him his daughter. As to the vicar, he was cloathed in a fort of
linen robe, covered with pitch and tar j a cord about the thick-
nefs of one's thumb ferved him for a fafli. He wore a fquare
cap of pafteboard blacked over, a maflc of the fame, and a linen
gown painted red, and carried a book in his hand. One cabbin
boy had a fquare cap painted red and black, another held a
wooden cenfer, hanging by pack threads platted in the Hiape of
a chain, and in the other hand a chafing difli with Bre to heat
the perfumes, which were made of pitch and tar. A third
cabbin
-'1
.#1
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 27
cabbin
cabbin boy carried a bow and an arrow; and a fourtli a bafon
and watering pot full of fea water for the baptifm.
The whole proceffion being come down upon the deck, and
the crew aflembled there, the lord governor defired a conference
with the commandant, who immediately advanced to receive
him. You are ivelcomc hither, M. le Chevalier ; 1 am happy to fee
you, faid the j^on homme la ligne : excufe me if I do not make you
a long compliment ; my lungs are fo feeble ^ I con fcarcely Jpeak. Tou
mil ft not be furprifcd at this -, for I am 7763 years old : it is even '
with difficulty that I can 'write. I have therefore ordered my fecretary
t6 id it for me ; and here is a letter, 'which ivill acquaint you ivith
every thing! had to fay to you, as "well as my chancellor. I am come
down from my palace on purpofe to admit you into my fociety. I hope
you will make no fcruple of fubmitting to the ceremony of being baP'
tized agreeable to the cuflom on this occafion. M. de Bougainville
received the letter, read it, and replied ^ la bonne heure. After
this he fainted the daughter of the Bon-homme, ami after con-
gratulating him on his having fo handfome a daughter, drew
near the line, or rope, which was ftretched acrofs. The officers
of the Bon-homme accompanied him to it, s.->d the lord governor
fcated himfelf on his throne with his daughter and his chan-
cellor.
The officers tied M. de Bougainville's left thumb on the line
with a red ribband. The reft of us gathered round, viz. Meflf.
de Nerville, de Belcourt, I'Huillier and myfelf, and they tied our
left thumbs with the fame ribband.
The vicar with a folemn air, and with his book in his hand, ,
approached M. de Bougainville. At the left hand of the vicar
was the fcepter-bearer of the lord governor } and at his left hand
two cabbin boys drefled like favages ; one of whom carried a
plate covered with a napkin folded, to receive the tribute, which -
is called ranfom, becaufe they content themfelves with pouring a •
fmall quantity of fea water on the heads of thofc-, wha ranfom
themfelves, inftead of plunging them in the fea, as is done in
the puni(hment of ducking: the other held a bow in one hand
and
'ii
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
i
and a cenfcr in the other, Tlie ccnfcr vvas a piece of wood,
hollowed in the (hape of a porringer, with three handle.?, and
fufpcndcd by three pieces of cord. The cuftom of dipping in
the fca in performing this ceremony of baptifm is abolilhcd ; it
having been confidered that that pra(5tice might be attended with
much danger on account of the iharks, which are apt to luik
near the fliips, and carry away a thigh at lead from any unfor-
tunate perfon, whom they happen to feizc. In lieu of this, they
have fubftituted the baptifm of the bath, oi- bathing tub, on the
edge of which they caufe the p(.'rfon to fit, v/ho has not ranl'omed
himfclf, or whom they have a mind to plague, ^s will be fcen in
the progrcfs of this account.
Things being thus fettled, the vicar addrefled himfeif to M. dc
Bougainville in the following manner : " In order to be admitted
into the noble and puifl'ant fociety of the lord governor of the
line, it is necefihry to enter into certain preliminary engagements,
which you will promife to obfervc. Thefe engagements have
nothing for their object but what is entirely reafonable." " A la
bonne heure," replied M. de Bougainville. " Do you then pro-
mife," purfued the vicar, •• to be a good citizen, and to that
end to labour at the work of population, and not to fuffer young
women to languilh away their time, whenever a favourable
oppoitunity ftiall offer itfclf? — I do promife. — Do you promife
never to lye with a failor's wife ? — I do prorrifc.- Do you pro-
mife to caufe the lame engagements to be laken, and the fame,
or fimilar xeremoiiies to be obfcrved b\ all thole who have not
j)affed the line, wiien they happen to be \>ith you ? — I do pro-
mife. — Put your hand then upon i\.s holy book in token of
your obligation." M. dc Bougaiir. ille laid his hand on a cur,
which reprefents a genius or angel and a young girl tenderly
embracing each other. It is the cut at the 47th pag3 of a book
intitled, Sentiincns (tun Chretien, louche de tamour de Dicu. At
the bottom of the cut is this I'cntence : quis mihi det te jratrcm
meum fugentcm ubera matris mea & imaii'am fe Jon's & deofculer te.
Cant. 8. The vicar went to the lord govtrnor of the line, and
reported
^'v^'
TO THE MAL0UINE ISLANDS.
89
fccn in
reported to him that M. de Bougainville had taken the engage-
ments : to which the Bon-homme anlwered : dignus eft tntrare in
noflro doSlo corpore : admittatur> The vicar then returned toM. de
Bougainville and faid j the lord governor of the line is pleafcd
to admit you into the focicty of which he is the head, and has
ordered me to receive you therein by adminiftration of his
baptifm. What is your name ? Louis, faid M. de Bougainville.
Very well ; ego, -fOKtine revrrendijinii domini domini & ferenijimi '
prafUentis aquatoris tCy Ludovicf, admitto in focietate ejus. In pro-
nouncing thefe words, he fprinkled over his head fome drops of
fea water. Then they untied M. de Bougainville's thumb, who
put fome money in the plate undir the napkin, and the vicar
threw incenfe on him. After this the vicar proceeded to M. de
Nerville, to whom he propofed the fame queftions, and after
lum to the other palTengers and officers with all the fame-
ceremonies.
It was now come to the turn of a midHiipman, who was a;
fad dog, and hated by aln^oft every body. The vicar told him,>
that the lord governor had given orders for his being admitted'
with all the ceremonies in form. In confequencc of thefe orders,
he threw one end of his robe over the fellow's head, muttered a-
few words, and afterwards gave him the robe, which had been .
frefli painted in oil, to kifs. He then took fome blacking, mixed •
with oil, in a fmall pot born by one of the cabbin boys, and
fmeared his forehead and cheeks with it. This being performed '
they untied his thumb frOm the line, and conduced hirri ..o the ■
bath, on the fides of which were two notches large enough to
receive a ftick, that was laid acrofs, and was to I'erve 3s a feat
for him. He had no fooner fat down, than they luddenly with-
drew the ttick from under him, and he fell with his pofteriors
into the water, the tub being about half full, to which there
was a cord likewife adjufted in fuch a mannei , that by pulling
one end of it, at the inftant the catechumen tumbles in, it
faflens round his middle, and keeps him under, without his
being able to difcngage himfelf, till the by-ftanders arc plcafed -
to
I
i
1 mm*
.^
30
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
to give him his liberty. As foon as the midlhipun^n was ncofed,
tliey fmeared his head and face all over with black and red :
after that they threw at leaft five or fix buckets of watef_ over
his head, and then fufFered him to go abput his bufmefs. , . . ...
After this they came to the two Acadian girls. The vicai*
afkcd them, if they were virgins ? they faid, Yes. Do you pro-
niife then, faid he, to preferve your marriage vow inviolable, in
cafe you fhall have a failor for your huiband ? The promife being
made, he juft marked their foreheads, nofe^, cheeks, and chins
with black, in the ilighteli manner poflTible, and then poured fome
water over their heads, after which they retired. The fifter of
one of thefe had hid herl'elf in order to avoid this wetting. She
was found however, and they were going to oblige, her to fubmit
to the ceremony ; but the vicar being apprized, that there were
reafons, why ihe ftiould not be expofed to that part of it, ,vyhich
was to be performed with the water, told her, that he would
content himfelf with making fome patches upon her face. She
fubmitted to this, and he kept his word. The two married
women were not baptized, becaufe their children, who were too-
young to be left by themfelves, were fo affrighted at the gror
tefque figures of the attendants «n the Bon-homme.la ligne, that
they could not be pacified or brought out from the corner^
where they had hid themfelves.
Several others were afterwards baptized and bedaubed with
black and red, but none of them were feated on the tub } becaufe
when the others had begun to throw fome buckets of water
over them, they, to be even with them, returned the compliment,
Thofe who had been wetted, chole to wet others : the ftruggle
was who fliould throw mod water, fo that all thofe who re-
mained on the deck were as wet, as if they had beer dipped in
the fea. But they were not fatisfied with fluicing one another j
thofe who had had their faces blacked rubbed them againll
others who had not undergone that ceremony, and by this
means there was fcarce a man in the whole ihip's company wl.o
efcaped a daubing } and they did not give over the fpurt, till
th y
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 31
they were all tired. This proved an unlucky circumftance for
the Bon-homme and his attendants, who loft part of the tribute
they would have received from thofe, who were not baptized
with the ordinary ceremonies. The reft of the day was paffed io„
dancing, and other kind of amufements. ^'.'r:^'v ^s-hn^aiUxMi^vi -'V
This farce is performed in every European fhip on paffing the
line. But there is no precife uniformity obferved in the cere-
monies ufed upon this occafion. Each nation has invented Aich
as are moft conformable to its genius and character j and every
ihip is regulated according to the degrees of humour in thofe
who happen to prefide. Sometimes the perfon, whofe office it is
to adminifter the baptifm, gives each perfon a name taken from .
fome bay, fome cape, or fome remarkable promontory on an
ifland or coaft} taking care at the fame time to apply them in
fuch a manner as to exptefs the character, temper, figure or dif-
poHtion of the perfon fo named. The ceremony is in general
called the baptifm, or the ranfom : the baptifm, becaufc of the
water thrown over thofe, who are then paffing the line for the
firft time : the ranfom, on account of the tribute, which is paid,
by thofe perfons who are not willing to be wetted. The *.:ibute
is ufuaily whatever the perfon, who pays it, thinks fit to give.
Sometimes it is impofed by the aftors themfelves : however they
always take care to make, their levy proportionable to the cir-
curnftances of the perfons. from whom the tribute is exadted.
Thus it is not always required in money, but fometimes in wine,
or brandy, or hams, or fuch like ; as when the captain of the
vcfld, who is not exempt any more than his palTengers, paffes
the line for the firft time.
When the fhip is not to pafs the line, but only the tropic,
tiiofe of the crew, who have aheady paffed it, not being willing
to lofe the tribute, which they look upon as their due, have
taken it into their heads to call the tropic, the ^A/^y? fon of the
Bon-hommc la ligne, prefumpti've heir of his pojjeffiom. Upon the
ilrength of this they play the fame farce at paffing the tropic,
t4iat others do on palling the equator. They have even thought
H fit
3*
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
'i "I
m
1 ,h2&
fit to perform this ceremony, when a fhip for the firft time
doubles Cape St. Vincent to pafs the Straits of Gibraltar. The
(hips which are employed on the cod fishery obfei'vd the fame-
pra£lice> when they Come within fight of the gre caught in the handover ray cabbin. We
Ihut him up in a hen-coop.
The next morning one of our boatfwains having taken him.
out of his place of confinement to put him upon his hand, the
bird took wing and flew away. A ftiort time after we difcovered
ii frigate : this bird kept wheeling round our weather flag, and
feemed to peck at it moiv? *uan once. We made the fame obfer-
vation on the currents il. as the day before.
We found thisclima uch the fame as that of France in
the month of May, the mornings and evenings being rather
cold, though we were under the torrid zone ; nor did we expe-
rience any of that bunding heat, which is complained of in the
relations of fo many porfons, who have failed through thefe
parts. It is true that fmce we had pafTed the line, we had
always had fome little wind at leaft, had never been furprifed by
calms, and had been fecured by itie clouds from the rays of the
fun. Whether it were owing to our cleanlinefs, or to our frigate
being *^ew we were not troubled with thofe infe6ls, which are
mentioned m the fame accounts; nor had we to this time one
perfon fick on board. In order to contiibute to the prefervation
of health, every evening after fupper, the failors were fet to
dancing on ths ikrn-calHe. And indeed they were fo difpofed
to jollity, that they would play at hot cockles, hunt the flipper,
or any other game, tliat promoted exercife and encouraged
mirth.
■?■*
%•
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
ril time
r. The
he fdme-
batik of'
kable.
ifpedlcd,
> the 16-
nilar to
itc, fuf-
n. We
f in the
gh thefe
we had
prifed by
l^s of the
ir frigate
hich are
time one
fervation
e fet to
difpofed
e flipper,
couraged
miith.
33
■I
milrth. Some of them, who were naturally of a comic turn,
would drefs themfelves up in mafquerade, affuming very gro.
tefque figures, and would pafs in proceffion, or make their
appearance in groups on the ftern-caftle, where they would
dance minuets, cotillons, allemandcs, country dances, and horn-
pipes. Moft of them had learned thefe dances, while they were
prifoneis of war in the ports of Great Britain. The greateft
part of them had made their efcape from thence at the rifque of
their lives, in neutral velTels, filhing boats, and even fmall boats,
which they found means to carry off. Several of them have
afTured me, that the Englirti connived at their efcape, and would
even bargain with the neutral veflels for their paflfage, or fell
them boats ^ that fome lent them cloaths to difguife them, others
advanced them money, others again gave them money out of
charity, and others furniflied them with letters of recommen-
dation to their friends in London, or in iiich ports, where they
thought the prifoners might embark with the leaft danger.
They even went farther ; and in order to give them the means
of living comfortably in the prifons, where they were confined,
made them prefents, and paid them very liberally for little toys,
which fome of them employed themfelves in making, even to
the buying of them little images of the Virgin Mary, of Saints,
&c. made out of wood, and as ill fhaped as may be imagined,
where the artifts had no other tools but their knives, and had
never learned the trade. One ot our crew, who had amufed
himfelf in this way, has told me more than once, that they
would give him to the value of half a crown for one of his
figures, with this caution only, not to boaft of it among the
Englifli. A fine leflbn of humanity and charity 1
Mirth and clcanlinefs are two points, to the promotion of
which fea captains ought to pay great^attention. They con-
tribute in no fmall degree to prevent all thofe diforders to which
feamen are ufually fubje^t. For the fame reafon they ought
always to mix a little vinegar with their daily allowance of
water, which tliey put in a. calk, called charnifr. What was
H 2 ufed
I
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34
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
ufed for the chamber, oi- ffjived up at the officers mefs was put
into great eart^?n veflels, »A/n'ich were filled to the height of half
a foot or more svith ftn?il pebbles. After the water has been
drawn off from the calks into tliefe large veffels, called Jarrif
which are expofed to the open air on the ftern-caftle or there-
abouts, it is left there to purify for three or four days before it
is drunk. It is imagined that the pebbles ferve to clear it from
flime.
I muft not omit to obferve here, that the water we had takeu
on board at St. Malo, had not fulfered the lead change, . as it
ufually happens between the tropics. Our bifcuit was equally
well preferved. There were only ibme pickled cabbage, and
fome fmall calks of veal, which weie rather fpoiled : and that
probably was more owing to a fault in tlie fcafoning of them,
than to the heat of the climate we were in.
' On the 2Qth of November at eight in the morniiig we took a
porpoife of about a hundred weight. I painted him from the
life, but without preferving any proportion to his bulk. For
the figure of him fee the plate annexed.
Seieral writers confuler the porpoife, as a fpccies of whale, and
give it the name oi Jbufkur, There are different kinds of them.
Some of them have their backs of a dark grey, almoft black,
and their bellies much lighter. Others are of a grey approach-
ing nearly to white, from whence they have the name of white
porpoifeu Thofe which we took, and whofe figure is reprcfented
in the plate, had their heads formed, not like the fnout of a hog,
but almoit in the fhape of a bird's head, covered with a thick
grey fkin, and the beak armed throughout with (harp white
teeth like thofe of a pike. They had an opening (A.) on the
top of their head, through which they fpouted water, and this
was followed by a ftream of air attended with a noife fomething
like the grunting of a hog. Their tail is horizontal, contrary
to what is ufually found among other fifh, who have it perpen-
dicular, when they are lyiig upon their bellies. It is of great
ufe, no doubt, in aflifting the porpoile to fpring out of the
water,
^
\^--
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
35
was put
: of half
as been
d jarri^
r there-
before ii
U from
5^,
id taken
as it
equally
gC, and
and that
if them,
e took a
Tom the
k. For
lale, and
>f them.
): black,
)proach-
of white
)icrented
tf a hog,
a thick
p white
on the
and this
mcthing
contrary
perpen-
of great
: of the
water,
water, and to turn round in the air with fo much eafe, as I have
mentioned in a former article; to effed which they only incline
a little more on one fide of their tail than on the other. From-
this pofition of their tail probably it is, that they derive that
peculiar method of fwimming, as if they were alternately rifintg
above the water and diving under it. The porpQife, which I
am defciiblng here (and all thofe we took were of the fame kind)
is, as I apprehend, of that fpecies, which are called moines de mer.
The fore part of the head terminates in a roll near the. beginning
of the fnout or beak, anfwering to. the border of the cowl. The
back is blackifli, and. the belly of a grey, confining, pf a pearl
colour, fomewhat inclining,, to yellow, interfpgrfed with black
and iron-grey fpots. It has three fins, curved and very thick.;
one on the back, the other two under the belly, Thefe, as well
as the . tail,, are covered with a membrane, or thick coarfe (kin,
which being, removed, five white cartilages appear, difpofed like
fingers and articulated in phalanxes* J- f ;, r, ; . ;>
I dl(Ie£ted the head and fins with an intention of preferving
them } but having hung them up over our cabbins near the Hag
ftafF, fome of our crew, in working, the fhip, inadvertently threw
them overboard..
Porpoifes almo(i always are found in .nxoais, fv\^imming in a
line, as if they wf re dravm up for an engagement. They feeni .
to go in fcarch of the wind ; for we remarked that in a fiiort
time after they had paffed us, the wind would rife on that fide,
to which.. they diiefted their courfc. , There- is no fifti perhaps.,
confidering its fize, that has fo much ftrength as the porpoife.
Among thofe, .which, we flre
French frigate, Eagle, the 20th of Nwember 1763, in 16 deg. 44
min. lat. 35 deg. 10 min. long. aHiwai Jet at liberty the 21ft in
the morning. At midnight we founded a fecond time without
finding any bottom.
Tuefday the 21ft, at half part fix in the morning, one of the
mates being defirous of examining the bird, which had been
taken the evening before, and not holding him with fufficient
caution, our prifoner efcaped, and deprived us of the pleafure we
propofcd to ouiftflves in faftening about him the ribband I have
mentioned. From the time we had fuffered the fecond of thefe
Jbirds that we met with to fly away, we never failed to have
7 . • one
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 37
thought
; latitudes
dence on
azil near
iccording
itude, we
'es called
e not fo
:an fafely
;h a hun-
m. Im-
have ex-
jofe they
d of the
; efcaped^
ig on the
ind. We
> faften a
ken on toe
6 deg. 44
61? 21ft in
•■ without
ne of the
had been
fufficient
safurc we
nd I have
i of thefc
1 to have
■ one
one of them every evening about eight o'clock fluttering round
our cabbins.
Having obferved an alteration in the colour of the fea all this'
day, we founded at eight in the evening. At the depth of 35,
fathoms we found bottom, and brought up pieces of coraly fliel Is,
and rotten ftone. At ten we founded again, and found 30;
fathom with the fame bottom. At midnight, no foundings.
At two in the morning of the 2 2d, founded again j 49 fathom,
fame bottom as before. At four, no foundings. TI>? Abrollhos
e;c tend farther to the foutliward than is marked in the French .
chartf .- , ■;,, ;j,:oi.i.;' -. ■■=;<■; ;^;i3 , ■. fLv/ ;
■)OUINE ISLANDS.
43
' After dinner M. de Bougainville, accompanied by MefT. de
Nerville, de Belcourt, and rHdillierde la Serre, went to vifitthe
Gdmmandant of this foit. Here they found a general officer of
Rio Janeiro, who bad been confined prifoner in it for four years, .
the commanding officer having received orders, never to fuffer him'
toftir out of the gates. The crime laid to his charge was, that
ht had not punClually executed the orders of the court of Lifbon, ,
in refpe^ to the expulfion of the Jefuits of Brazil, and had ex- ■
tended fome favor to them. This gentleman had with him a -
Portuguefe, who ac^ed as his fteward and fccretary ; he ^vas a i
man of good fenfe and had been page to one of the Portuguelc am
bafladors at Paris, where he had lived folir yea rsi The pleafure ■
of feeing Frenchmen again delighted him, and he was happy in i
fervingas an interpreter to M. de Bougainville. His attachment '
to the impriforieid general had induced him to facrifice his liberty, .
and for the fake of bearing him company he voluntarily partook
of his confinement. This fecretary accompanied M. de Bougain-
ville, and the reft on their return. In the account he gave us of
the caufes of the general's imprifonment, he exadpated him as
much as he could, and told us even in the prefence of two offi-
cers, who had come on board with him, that he was indeed •
guilty of not having carried the orders of his court into execu-
tion as foon as he received them ; but that the archbifliop, who
favored the Jefuits had prevented it by giving him afllirances that ;
he had received counter orders; and that the other, as command-
ing officer, ought not to obey thofe he had received, till they ■
ihould be conHrmed. The execution therefore of them, whether '
out of rci'i^efl to the archbifliop or from other motives not known, ,
was delayed too long, and ''^e reneral waspunilhed for it by the
lofs of h's liberty. After this re -ion he begged of M. de Bougain-
ville to take charge of a mem' m J u ft i neat ion of the prifoner,
and to deliver it to the Portugucie ambaflador in Fi ance upon
oiir return, that it might be tranfmitted to the court of Lilbon. '
But no fuch paper, I believe, ever came to the hands of M. de
Bougainville.
When
I
M
JOURNAL .OF MY VOYAGE
m
'When M. Alejjander Guyot paid his vifif to the governor, he
Deceived an invitation from him, and was likewife defired to
deliver one on his part to M. de Bougainville and the Officers as
well as the principal paflengers on board our frigate to dine with .
the goverxior the next day, Thurfday the firft of December.
As foon as it was light we fet otfj, M. de Bougainville, de Ner-
ville, de Belcourt, 1' Huillier, Alex. Guyot and myfelf j and at
half pad one we arrived at the town, the name of which tranf-
Uted into French is, Notre Dame de tExil, or la Vierge Exilie^ Our
La
The diflies were drefled after the manner of the country, which
is not very agreeable to a French palate. In eating their foup, ,
which is a kind of folid glue, they do not make ufe of fpoons, but ,
eat it with the help of a fork. The bread was miferable, brown, ,
heavy dough, or rather pafte made in the fliape of a roll, about
three inches diameter, and an inch and a half in height. The
outfide had fcarcely felt the fire, and was only a liKle drier than
the reft. The infide was folid, and looked like that buck-wheat
flummery, which is the chief food of the inhabitants of Limoges,
jiiid is by them called Galktte.
The
TO THE MAL0UINE ISLANDS.
4'S
s.^-ch'
The fecond courfe was compofed of a great number of dirties;
all drefled with fugar, which is alfoan ingredient in moft of their
fauces., as well 'as Carthamum, or the flower of baftard faft'ron.
Theplates were pewter, not well rcowercd.and of an antique form; -
1 lie covers were likewife very old fafliioned, but they v\rtre \ 'er,
and very heavy ; fo were the dirties, and fc^me drinking veiiels; ,
which were of an o^ogonal cylindrical formi and about fcven of •
eight inches high. Our liquor was at firft brought to us in very
fmall glalTes, fuch as were foi merly ufed for liqueursy having a long
ftemi and the bowl ending'in a point. But as it would have
been neccffary to drink one of thefe glafles at leafl: with every
mouthful, I asked for- a larger to mix wine and water in. Upon ■■.
this they brought me one of the fdver cylinders full. Another
time I had a large goblet of crylial, thconly one-tha'^ appeared, .
and which held near a bottle, Paris meafuie. The other guells •
were ferved- in the fame manner. Thefe great cups were handed .
from one to another, till they were empty. The wine we drarik
was port, and very good.
After dinner the cloth 'was removed," but we continued at table :
todrinkxoffee andto converfe.- At this time I perceived that
the Franciscan bad-quitted the company. My defignt hr.d beerr .
toaddrefs myfelf to him ii> order to obtain fome knowledge of
the country and inhabitants ; for though he knew nothing of th€'
Fi'ench language^- nor I of the Portuguefe, I made myfelf fure of •
being able to converfewith him in Latin. I acquainted the go-' •
vcrnor's fon with my intention, and aflced him why the Francif--
can had retited. He told me, I might have perceived from- the*
moment wc came in, that the Friar »iad taken pains to avoid me, .
forefeeir»g my defign ; for not underftanding Latin, Jie chole ra-'
ther to. keep at adirtance from me, than be obliged to-acknow- ^
ledge his ignorance ^of that language. This want of learning,'
however, fays he, isnot peculiar to hi-m $■ it is th* cafe of almolt-*
all the ecclefiartics'in-the country* -
The governor's fon, from whom I received'^this intelligence is*^
a captaia in his father's ' "••ment, and one of fifteen childietr
as .
m
i^
JOyP.NAL OF MY VOYAGE
:.S'
•as he infoirncJ us, that he had haJ, not by his lawful wife, for
l.e never was man icd, but by one or fcveral niiftrefles. The reft
of liis '■'lildren then alive were at Lilbon, wher. js befoiv by fome Frenchmen, who had
put into the harbour. The water of this fpring is very good ;
and we laid in a large ito^A of it. As to our wood, we got that
from tl'.e place which had bcci mentioned to us on the con-
tinent, it being exceedingly con .odious for that purpofe : for
after cutting down the wood on the brow of the hill, it was very
eafy to roll it down the fide cloi'e to the water edge, and fo load
our boats with it. What we cut was moftly cedar, falfafras,
cinnamon, and Brazil wood, which is ufed in dying. There was
ver.y little of any other kind in this place.
The
TO THE MALOUINE ISIJANDS. 51
The next day (Saturday the 3d) we went on fliore upon the
continent, and walked along the coaft with an intention of
fporting. We found two or three foldiers ported by the Com-
mandant in the next cottage to that of our Acadians, who endea-
voured to prevent us from going forward, and told us they had
orders from the governor to do fo. We pretended not to under-
ftand what they faid to us, as they fpoke in Portuguefe, and
continued our route, upon which they made no refiflance. In
fadl, it was not the governor, but the Commandant of the fort
of Santa Cruz, who had given thefc orders. We proceeded
above a league along the new road, which they arc making to
go by land to Rio Janeiro, and by the fide of a chain of woods
which cover all the eminences. Thefe woods are fo thick, tliat
it is not poflible for any thing But wild beafts and ferpents to
penetrate into them. Wc killed fome toucans, parrots, tiepiran-
gas, and one dove.
Sunday the 4th, M. de Bougainville accompanied by four or
five officers went to dine with the governor, who had given us
an invitation the Thurfday before. I remained on board to fay
mafs to the crew. The gentlemen who went were received
and entertained fplendidly as before. The wind and tide being
againfl: them hindered their returning to the (hip that day,
notwithftanding all their endeavours to accomplifh it ; they
refolved therefore to go back again to the town. The governor
had apprized them of the impoffibility of their getting on board
at that time, and had done every thing in his power to engage
them to flay. He reprefented to them, the rifque they muft run
by expofing themfelves in fuch a manner to the dangers of a
channel full of (hallows, banks of fand, and rocks, which they
would have the greateft difficulty in the world to avoid, if the
night (hould come upon them before they reached the fhipj
that fuch an accident would put it entirely out of their power to
difcover the fea maris, and confequently to keep the channel,
Befides, he had intended to give them the pleafure of a ball, and
had already invited feveral ladies, wives to officers of the garrifon.
6 The
5*
JOUIINAL OF MY VOYAGE
r
n
r^
4'
Tiif. 'jariy being broke up by the departure of our gentlemen, lie
fent to all the perfons who had been invited, to prevent their
coming. But as foon as he underOood that M. de Bougainville,
and his companions were coming back to the town, he fcnt out
to meet them, and without acquainting them of his intentions,
difpatched fre(h invitations for the Aipper and the ball, which
was to follow.
After fuppcr was over, at which the ladies were not prefcnt,
the governor, without giving our gentlemen the Icalt hint of
what they were to expe£l, engaged them only to go and pafs a
few hours at the houfe of an officer of the garrifon, where, as
he faid, they would find a very agreeable company. M. de-
Bougainville and the red confented at fird merely out of com-
plaifance, but they were agreeably furprifed to find there feveral'
ladies, by whom they were perfeftly well received. They had.
never imagined from the reputation the Portuguefe have of
being extremely fufceptible of jealoufy, that they would have
permitted their women to appear in fuch aflemblies. They flruck
up however a kind of dance, in which the ladies figured as
well as the gentlemen, and about two or three in the morning
they retired very well fatisfied with each other.
At this interview, M. de Bougainville took an opportunity of
complaining to the governor of the behaviour of the Com-
mandant of Santa Cruz, and obtained a general permidion to^
take whatever meafures he (hould judge proper for fporting,
fifhing, wooding, and watering wherever we pleafed. At part-
ing M. de Bougainville invited the governor, with the Oviodore,
and fuch officers as he fhould think fit to bring with him, to
dine on board our fhip. «
In confequence of this permiffion we fent our yawl out to fifh
almofl every day, and fhe conflantly came back loaded with
fifh of many kinds, and in fuch abundance as to ferve the whole
crew. The figures of them may be feen in the plates.
We went alfo every day a (hooting eitlier on the continent or
in the illand ; though we Coon left off going to the former, as
wc
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 53
we found fcar.^ u' y tiling there but parrots, toucans, and feme
doves. In tK.- iO^n i, befule thcfe birds, which I have mentioned,
there were ki larks, plovers, fnipes, and fome others in good
number. The officers of tne garrifon, and the people of the
country, whether from want of courage, or from indolence, or
from the danger of meeting with wild beads and ferpents, which
are in great plenty among the woods and morafles, never go out
a fporting, and advifed us to follow their example. It muft be
confeifed indeed, that the cottagers are not provided with arms i
and the few which <»ne meets with are old, the greateft part
made after the old fafhion, with wheels for the trigger, and very
bad. They had fcarcely even powder or ball. >
Lefs timid than they, and to fay the truth better armed, we
more than once penetrated into the acceflible parts of the idand.
By the afTidance of our light boots we furmounted the obftacles
which prefented themfelves to us among the woods and thickets,
from a fpecies of thorny aloes, of which they are full. Wc
never went alone, but always two or three in a company in
order to affiil each other in cafe of an attack from any over-
grown ferpent, or wild beaft, particularly ounces ; fome claws of
which we had feen here in the hands of fome of the inhabitants
mounted in filver, and which, as we were informed by them,
were very common, and were more ravenous than even tygers.
One day when we were out in fearch of game upon the ifland,
and had feparated into different parties, I, with M. de Belcourt
and his fervant, kept along the fide of a creek, which runs a
confiderable way within the land, and was called by us the river,
M. de Belcourt amufed himfelf with (hooting at water-fowl.
As we advanced along the border of this creek I perceived on
the fand recent traces of fome four-footed animal, which, to
judge by the marks, muft be very large, and feemed to be a
tyger. We followed thefe traces till we came to a very marftiy
Ipot, where we did not dare to venture ourfelvcs, not knowing
either the bottom or the extent of it. Returning by the fame
way
Il
'»
i
iiW
i«^'.
II
54
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
way that wc came, I perceived M. de Belcourt advancing towards
us, and fliewed him the traces.
Thefe, faid he to me, muft certainly be the traces of a bead I
faw hereabouts but juft now, at the very inftant he was darting
into the thickets. He is about the heighth of the largeft fized
Danifli dog, and of a greyifli colour. He went in at that place,
let us purfue him. With all my heart, replied I. Wc made
our way as well as we could among thefe marfhy thickets, which
were fo chcaked up with a (harp fpecies of aloes, whofe leaves
are fomctimes not lefs than five feet in height, that we had all
the trouble in the world to difengage ourfelves from them. We
beat about in vain for near two hours without feeing any thing
of the beaft we were in purfuit of : we only got fight of the
hind part of another, the hair of which feemed to be of a
greenilh grey : his height about that of the largeft kind of
Ipaniel : his tail feemed to be as green as the leaves of the plants,
which furrounded it, and to refemble that of a fox in thicknefs
and in length. He hid himfclf among the bufhes at tlie inftant
M. de Belcourt was going to fire at him.
The heat was now fufFocating. We flopped and fat down on
the ends of fome branches, leaning our backs againft a tree.
We had with us fome oranges and fome fea bifcuit. While we
were regaling ourfelves in this pofture, we were ftunned with
the inceflant hiffings of ferpcnts, which furrounded us, and
reduced us to the neceffity of keeping conftantly upon our guard
with drawn fabres. After this breakfaft, of which we had ftood
in great need, we continued our fport, drawing towards an
eminence, at the top of which we difcovered a cottage. Being
arrived liere, we found M. de Bougainville and his fcivant.
Two Portuguefe women, whofe figures were not very inviting,
received us, and difplayed for near two houis, that we continued,
with them, the utmoft freedom in their air and conveilation.
They had a tame parrot, which was tolera51y pretty, and talked
well. We propofed to purchafe this bird ; but the women
tefufed to part with it. They longed for every thing we had,
handkerchiefs,
.«
'Mil
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
5S
'handkerchiefs, knives, hats, and even our fuzils and fabrcs : tl.ey
alked us for all thefe without ceremony, and if we had been
willing to give into their way of thinking, neither our cloaths
nor even our fhirts would have incommoded us on our return.
We contented ourfelvcs with a few oranges, and fet out to dine
on board. On entering the wood we feparated again from
M. de Bougainville and his fervant without intending it. The
path which M. de Belcourt and I took led us to a morafs, where
the trees were luckily at a fufficicnt diftance from each other :
Here we faw feveral ferpents about the thicknefs of the fmall of
a man's leg, and others lefs, fomc of a reddifli colo ir, otliers
red and yellow, and others grey, which laft a good deal refem-
ibled adders of the largeft fize ; but inftead of attacking, they fled
before us. When we were almoft got to our boat, M. de Bel-
court fired at a bird, called the fpoon-hillt and broke only one of
his wings. He took it up and brought it on board. It was a
young one, and all its plumage was of a faint rofe colour ; the
procefs of the quill from which the beards of the wing featliers
rife, was of a bright rofe .colour. Its legs were a foot long in-
cluding the thighs, and of a light grey as well as tl e feet, which
were webbed, like thofe of geefe. Its beak was fix inches in
length, nnd'both the upper and under part flat grey towards
the root, and white towards the extremity : it bc^an to fpread at
about two thirds of its length, and ended ' a fpatula, of two
inches and a half diameter in its grea' ^c breadth. We cairied
it to the fhip, where it lived three '-ays on fome fmall fidies,
and bits of frefh meat, which were forced down its throatj for it
would not eat of itfelf. When any one came near it, it made
^ noife with its bill as loud as that of two wooden battle-
dores (Iruck one againfl the other.
Some of our failors gave it the name of flamingo, but that
of fpoon-billt ox palette (battledore) is more fuitable, on account of
the fliape of its bill, very unlike to that of the flamingo, which
is made almoft in the commoneft form of a bird-bill,
L The
I
«»i
it.
ija
Iff.
!
cC
JOURNAL OF MrVOYAGE
The next day we went again on the ifland in purfuit of the
animal we had not been able to meet with the evening before.
There were feveral that made their way into the fame wood.
M. I'Huillier found there another beaft of the fame !ize as that
J have mentioned, but of the yellow colour, and nearly of the
fhnpc, of a lion. He fired three times at him loaded with bullet,
two of which wounded without flopping him, and without
making him go one ftep cither fafter or flower. We followed
him by the traces of the blood, but he rufhed in among the
thickets, and we favv no more of him. The heat being very
intenfe, and we having fcarcely more than time fufficient to get
on board for dinner, contented ourfclves with killing parrots,
plovers, fnipcs and fome other birds. As I was curious to have
a humming bird, of which I faw many flying round our heads,
ana could not, oi at lead did not know how to take them alive,
I ventured to fire p.t one, which was fluttering about like a
butterfly, and hovered in the fame manner over a fmall branch
of a tree. The littls bird, whether through fear or the violent
concuffion of the air, dropped inftan'ly. After having looked
for it a long time, 1 found it at lafl; dead on a lea^ of the fame
branch. The figure of it in its natural fize is lO be feen m
the plate.
Some call tins bird, Lifongere or Beequefleursy becaufe it is con-
tinually fluttc injLi: about flowers, like the butterfly, and fucks the
moiflure of them in the fame manner. The whole compafs of its
body with the feathers is not larger than a common nut. -Jt has
a tail near three times as long as its body ; its neck is rather
fmall, its head in proportion, and its eyes arc very fliarp. The
bill is fomewhat whitifli at the root, t!ic rclt of it is black ; it is
as long as the body of tlie bird, is fmall and very (harp. The
wings are long, thin, and very extcnfive in proportion -, i.* ex-
tr-jmity of the feathers reaches to two-thirds or thereabouts of
the tail, which as well as the wings is of a purplcifli brown.
The relt cf the plumage is green with a gold cafl, as if one had
fpiead a layer of green alinoft tranfparent over a leaf of gold.
Tiic
THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
The neck and head are of a deep b.'iie, gi!t in the fame manner.
Thefe colours vaiy according as the light ftrikcs more or lefs
forcibly on the different parts. Sometimes the whole plumage
of this bird refembles a pigeon's neck, or the green feathers on
the wings of wild ducks ; fometimes it is of a fine blue, fometimcs
of a fine green, fometimes of a purple, and all thefe mixed with
the fplendor of a lively gold colour, bright and burnilhcd. The
tongue of this bird in miniature is forked, and has the appear-
ance of two twifts of red filk. Its feet are (hort, black, and
furniflied with very long claws.
There are feveral fpecies of them, which dilTer both in fize ind
colour. One of the fmall kind, which I have preferved in
braqdy, has white feathers from the breaft to the tail. The
colour of the reft of its plumage is like that of the others.
The female lays but two eggs, of the fize of a fmall pea.
They build their nefts in orange trees with the fmalleft ftraws
they can find. The Portuguefe, who lived in the cottage near
which we watered, gave us one of thefe nefts with two young
ones in it, which were not yet covered with the firft down. He
had juft taken it with the father and mother, clofe by his habi-
tation } we put it down on a ftone bench at the door of the
houfe, while we were eating an orange, and had fcarcely turned
our backs, when a cat came and carried off both neft and young
ones. Thefe nefts are of an admirable conftruflion, and about
the fize of a half crown. The Brazilians call this bird by the
names of Guainumbi^ Guinambi, Aratica, ArcJarataguacu. The
Portuguefe call it PegafroJ.
We had befide thefe a third kind, fomewhat larger than thofe
I have been defcribing, but much lefs than the fmalleft wrens
we have in Europe. The feathers of their head begin towards
the middle of their upper bill. They are exceedingly fmall at
their rife, are difpofed in fcales, and giow larger as they are
rearer to the head, at the top of which they form a little tuft of
uncommon beauty for the brilliancy of the gold, and the variety
of colours, which change according to the dirc6lion of the rays
L 2 of
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Journal of my voyage
■ of lighr, or the pofition of the fpcdator's eye. Sometimes tire
plumage of this binl is of a black equal to that of t!ic fiiicft black
velvet, foiT.ctimes of a pea giecn, fomctimcs yellow. At other
times it refenibles cloth of gold fliaded with all ihefe colours. The
back is of a dark green fliot with gold. The large feathers of the
uing are of a deep violet, approaching fometimes to purple. The
tail is compofcd of nine feathers as long as the whole body^ and
of a black mixed with brown, purple, and violet, which form a
jnort agreeable allemblage of colours, and have the fame change-
able property as above. The whole lower part of the belly likewife
exhibits a mixture of black, violet, green, and yellow, which
always ftrike the eye of the obferver differently, according to tfe
fhe had coil him
about eighteen French livres.
About four o'clock in the afternoon we went over to the main
land, and vifited feveral cottages on the coaft, where we made
provifion of lemons, orangesj and fome pine-apples, . which we
found ripe. This fruit, and the plant which bears it are known
at prefent in Europe, as they bear the voyage very well, but
there is a very great difference both in flavour and finell between
the fpecimens of this fruit produced in France, even in Pj ovence
and Languedoc, and what is found in Brazil. It grows there of
itfelf without cuhivation, and in great abundance. It turns tlic
knives, with which it is cut, black, and fpoiis themi which pro-
'<'i4
• Pwyict,
babty
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60
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
bably has given occafion to fome authors to fay, that the rind
of it is fo haul, that it blunts the edge of a knife. It is true,
that if, after cutting the pine-apple in dices, you negledl: to wafh
and wipe your knife very well, you will find it after a few hours
fpoiled and rufty, as if you had put aguajiriis fomewhat lowered
upon it. The juice of this fruit is of great efficacy in taking fpots
out of cloaths. That of Brazil, they will tell you, is a prefervative
againll fca.ficknefs.
In my walk I gathered fome feeds of plants, and fome grenadillas^
with a fmall red fruit of the colour of cinnabar, \vhich bears a
pretty near reicnblance to the love-apple. A Portuguefe, who
was with us, told me, they call it Maracuja, the figure of it is in
the plate annexed.
The plant which bears this fruit is prickly, the leaf is very like
that of the Stramonium furiofumy but not fo large. Under the rind
of the fruit is a pulp, of one fixth part of an inch in depth,
white, and of the confiftence of that of the Calville apple, of a
fweetifli but infipid flavour. The infide is intirely filled with flat
feeds, of the fame form asthofe of the large Pimento or long pepper.
The Portuguefe informed me, that the fruit, Maracuja., was nevoi-
eaten, altho' he did not know tjiat it had any dangerous qualitieSo
The Grenadilla of Brazil is round, yet rather flat at the ends,
and of the fize of a pullet's egg. Its bark is very fmooth, glittering
on the outfide, and of a carnation colour, when the fruit is ripe.
On the infide it is white and foft, its thicknefs about the eighth
part of an inch. The fubftance which itinclofes is vifcous, it is
of a refrefliing and cordial nature, the tafte of it is between fweet
and four. It may be eaten in quantities without any inconvenience.
There are to be found in it a number of fmall feeds or kernels
much refembling linfeed in fliape, and not fo hard as thofe of
the common pomegranate. This whole fubllance is feparated
from the bark by a very thin Ikin. The plant which bears this
fruit twines about the trees, and refembles as to its leaves and
flower, what we call the paflion flower. It diff"ufes a very fweet
fcent. To eat the Grenadilla in peifeftion, it (hould not be fuf-
fered
m^'
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TO THE MAL0UINE ISLANDS.
6i
ftred to ripen entirely upon the plant. It would decay and dry
up. It muft be gathered a little before it is ripe, and kept a few
days. t
Since our arrival at Brazil we were conftantly in fearch of par-
rots, but could not find any tame ones to be bought. In
the tour that wfc made, we had the good luck to meet with
fome complaifant Portuguefe, who parttd with one to Mr.
r Huillier ; this officer found means alfo to get one for Mr. de
Belcourt. Upon our returning on board, a Spaniard who talked
a little French, and whom we had commiflioned to procure us
fome, offered us four, two of which were already reared, and
talked the Portuguefe language, as did the two of which I have
already fpoken. The other two were but juft taken from their
neft, and could not feed themfelves. I gave a ftripcd ribband for
one ofthefe laftj and I preferred it with an idea that it would
learn the French language with greater facility. I kept him till the
beginning of May, when he died of a catarrh in the head. This
catarrh had caufed his eyes to fwell. It fell upon his lungs, and
having rendered him aftmatic, it wa^ impoffible for me to fave
him. .
Among thefe parrots there were three kinds, which differed in
their plumage and fize. One of M. 1* Huillier's had the feathers
of his neck and ftomach of a tawny and changeable red, mixed
with a little grey ; the top of the fore part of the head of a ver-
milion colour, rather faded and extinguiQied, the tips of the wings
of a brighter red than that of the rofe, and fcveral of the feathers
in the wings and tail of a fine carmine j others of a very fine
azure blue, and fome black : all the reft of the body was green.
He fpoke Portuguefe extremely well, and learned French very
cafily. He died juft upon our arrival at the Malouinc iflands.
The fecond was bigger than any we had : the top of his
head was of a vermilion red, the two fides of a light blue to-
wards the ears, and which grew fainter even fo much as to be-
come grey in proportion as the feathers were at a gieater diftance
from them. The wings and tail were like thofe ct UiC firft. The
5 others
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others were fcarce above half that fize $ they refembled them Irow-
ever as to their plumage, except that the red ujx>n their heads
was much more lively, which might perhaps be owing to their
being younger. Monf. de Bougainville's parrot died of the
fame difordcr as mine, during our iiay at the Malcuine irtaiids.;
M. de Belcourt's fell into the fea and was dro i ?d, fo that out
of feven, we brought no mote than two to France, Mr. 1' Huil-
lier's large one, which I delivered to him fafc and found at Ver-
failles, and one of the fmallcr kind which had no tail, for he
plucked out the feathers of it as faft as they grew. The failor
to whom it belonged, had not taken near the fame care of him
as we had done of ours, and yet preferved him. It was impofli-
ble to fpeak better than he did j and he imitated the. cries of the
children we had on board, and thofe of the cabbin boys when
they were whipt for any fault they had committed, the cackling
of the hens, and the noife of all the other animals we had m the
frigate, fo well, as to deceive every body that heard him.
Faffing by the habitation in which wc had lodged our Acadian
families, we. heard a noife like that of a wood-cutter felling of
wood. We a(ked a freed negro, what it was? It is, anfwered he,
a monkey that ranges about the garden to eat the fruit and the
corn, and is giving notice to his comrades to come and aflift him ;
but if I had a good gun like yours, I would foon diflodge him.
He has been two or three days making this racket. One of our
boatfwains lent him his gun; the negro loaded it with large
ihot, followed the noife, and (hot at the monkey twice without
. making him run away : at the third fliot he fell dead at the foo»
of the tree. 1 he boatfwain brought the monkey on board the
frigate where we had opportunity to examine him at our leifurw.
He was near two feet eight inches high, when (landing upon his
hind legs ; his hair was long, and of a fawn coloured brown all
over hi« body except under the belly, which approached
the clear fawn colour. His brown beard began from his ear*
and /ell near five inches upon his breaft j his feet and handai
were black J his ears, dcftitute of hair, were well detached from
each
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TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 63
each other and his face covered with a tawny down, fo clofe as
to be haidly diftinguifliabic from the Ikin. His eye brows were
of a darker hue and prominent. His tail was as long as his body
including his head.
I know not at what fport he had loft his left eye : this, how-
ever, was not to be perceived without a clofe examination j for in
the focket he had fubftitutcd a ball, compofcd of a gum which was
unknown to us, of rotten wood and fome very fine mofs, the wh^Ie
mixed up together. The eya-lid coveifed this ball as if it had been
really the globe of the eye. Whether he had contrived this falfc
eye to appear lefs deformed, or to cure his wounded eye, or to de-
fend it from the infults of flies and other infefts, Heave toconjefture.
We obferved alfo, that this monkey appeared old, for the Ikin of
his face was greatly wrinkled, and he had fome white hairs in
his beard. We faw but this one during our ftay at the ifland of St.
Catherine's, though we were told that there were a great number,
and that the inhabitants eat the young ones, which are very good.
They endeavoured even to perfuade me that one of the ragouts of
which I ate at the Governor's, and which I took to be an excel-
lent rabbit, was really a monkey. Be this as it would, many others
ate of it as well as myfelf, and appeared well pleafed with it.
The mafter of the habitation near which we got our wai-
ter, having perceived that Mr. le Roy, lieutenant of our fhip,
had a great inclination for a pretty little bird that he had in
a cage, and which fang very well, made him a prefent of it.
This bird is called in the Brazils, Guranb^ Engera, It is of the
fize of a Canary bird. Its wings, back, neck and tail are jlue,
with fome white fpots about the middle of the large feathers of
the wings and tail, difpofed in the fame manner as thefe fpots
are in the wings and tail of the gold-finch. From the under part
of the bill along the breaft to the under part of the tail, all the
feathers are of a golden yellow, bright and glittering ; its warbling
varies like that of the Canary, and it imitates the finging of other
M birds.
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
p^
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Ft".
birds. There ar: 't^vcral forts of them. The Brazilians call them
alfo Teitei, For its Figure, fee the Plate.
As I was walking in the fields with our captain, I perceived
him gathering a large quantity of a plant with yellow flowers,
iiich I took at the firft glance for the yellow amtianth, which
abounds on the rifmg grounds on the coaft of Terra Firma.
Curiofity led me to a(k him the ufe which he meant to put
it to. He told me, that it was the Doradilla-, that when he
was at Valparafo, he had heard it called by that natuc ; and
that in that town, as well as in all the others in cr'
where he had been, they ufed a great deal of it in infufion ^ >r
the cure of pains in the fliomach. Our captain was fubje6^
the.n at times. I gathered a pretty large quantity of it, and
drank it fometimes by way of tea. The tafte of it is agreeable
enough. Others call it Vira-verda\ this is the name that i»
,lvcn to it at Montevideo alfo. Frezier, in his account of his
voyage to the South feas, fays, that a French furgeon made ufe
of it with great fuccefs in the cure of the tertian ague. But the
Doradilla which the Spaniards have, is a kind of fplecn-wort,
the leaf of which is curled. They attribute great virtues to it.
The ftalk and leaves of the vira-verda, which we fpeak of at
prefent, are fpongy, and like the yellow amaranth, its flower is
an aflemblagc of fmall yellow buds, the leaves of which are point-
ed. The flowers of the amaranth are in form of a rofe, and the
leaves of it are difpofed in the fame manner.
At our return from fifliing, abundantly fupplied as ufual,
we examined the different forts of fifli, and among them
found that which is called in the Brazils Panapana. The one
that I give the figure of was two feet and a half long from the
head to the beginning of the tail, the diftance between the eyes
was ten inches. Its Ikin was rough and hard like that of a fliark,
but confiderably finer, nearly the fame as that of the Ikin of a
litind of (hark, commonly Aim and of a middling fize, which our
faiMis call Demoifelk], we catched three or four of them during
our
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 65
our ftay at the ifland of St. Catherine's, ar:^ two at the Maldo-
nades at the mouth of Rio de la Plata.
The head of the Panapana ib flat, ill-l( med, and In the fliape
of a hammer. Its eyes are at a great difcance from each other j
being placed at the oppofitt extremities of the head. Its mouth
and tail are like thofe of the fhark, its teeth are very (liarp ; but
1 did not find feven rows of them. Our failors gave it the name
of marteau or hammer, which is very applicable to its fhape.
Among the number of plants which I p; uhered, was a fort of
pepper, or pirn ^ e, vciy common in the fields along the ikirts of
the woods. < :s I it. .s infinitely (harper than that of the pimento
or long pepper, \i :icU we are accuftomed to in France. On this
account our failors called it pitnent enrage. This fruit is of the
lame length form and colour, but at lead t vice as thick as that
of the Barberry tree. It is at firft green, and grow ^ red as it be-
comes ripe. The flower which precedes it, is like that of the
pimento. The plant which bears it, grows to the height of about
two feet. It is full of branches and joints j its ftem is round,
green, and rather flender. The leaves of it are in fliape like
thofe of the Jblanum hortenfe^ or garden nightfliadc -, but as fmall
as thofe of the chempodium fcetidum or vulvariuy which they re-
femble much. One of the finall fruits of the pitnent enrage put
into fauce, heightens the flavour as much as an entire one of the
larger fort. This induced our failors to lay in a large provifion
of them.
I had alfo furniflied myfelf with all the ripe feeds of the plants
which I found, and having met with fome Portuguelc women in
a hut, who were picking cotton to leparate it from its feeds,
they gave me a handful of them. They did me the greater plea-
lure, as I was very defirous of having fome, and as I could not
gather any from the plant, the flirub being jull then in flower.
The wood of it is tender and fpongy ; the bark thin and grey.
Its leaves are of a bright green when young, but grow of a
deeper colour as they approach to maturity, or as the flirub
old. They are large, and divided into five parts, which
M 2 terminate
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
terminate in a point. Thofe which are neareft the fbwer are
only in three parts, and refemble much thofe of the RicirtHs,
Its flowers are almoft like thofe of a fmall (hruba which is now
in faflnon for the decoration of our parterres, calkd ^kbam \
They are not however quite fo op^n. They are yellow tqward$ the
end, and fpotted with rcj at the bottom. It is a pentapetaknu
plant, fupported by a calix of fmall green leaves, which are hard
and pointed. To the piilil iucceeds a bud, or oval fruit, which
in its ftate of maturity is of the bignefs of a duck's egg. This
fruit is divided into three or four different cells, fiUed with 9
white ftringy fubftancc, which inclofe$ ten or twelve {tsid& of ^
dark brown colour flicking together two by two,, like wheat in
the ear. Thefe ieeds are of the fizc of a pea, and about three
or four lines in length.
- This flringy fubflance is that whidi WQ knovM by the i^me of
cotton. It fwells and fprings in the (hell, which contart^s it, in
fucha manner as to force it open when the fruit is ripe. At
that time the feeds, full of an oily fubflance, feparate themfelvcs,
with the locks of cotton which inclofe them> and fall from the
fruit, unlefs care is taken to gather them in time.
The Portuguele muft certainly be unacquainted with the mar
chines which are made ufc of in our Antilles^ for feparating the
cotton from the feeds which it indofes, and to which it flicks \
or elfe the Portuguefe women I have feen employed at this
work, did it merely by way of amufement j for they feparated it
bit hy bit, only by pinching the cotton between their fingers.
They fpin it afterwards to make cloth of it ; but I do not know
with what machine, as I never faw them at that work. y* > ..
This is the only kind of cotton tree which I found cultivated
in the ifland of St. Catherine's, and upon the coafls of the
Continent in its neighbourhood. It is very di^crent from the
cotton tree in the Brazils, of which Dampier fpeaks in the
following terms : " Its flower is compofed of fmall filaments air
*-' mofl as loofe as hair, three or four inches long, and of a dark
'- red except the tips, which are of an aili colour. At the bof*
" torn.
-■?'(>*'*''' ■'■ '■ *'
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
«7
" torn of the ftalk tliere are five narrow ftiff leaves about fix
** inches long." The kind which Frezier fpeaks of, refembles
in every refpecl that which I have defcribed, except that the feeds
of the latter are not feparated - fi'om each other, and difperfed in
the cotton, as that author fays, and as he has reprefented them
in the figure which he has given oi the fruit. It feems as if fa-
ther Labat had copied from this figure of the cotton tree the one
which he has inferted in the fecond volume of his new voyage
to the American iflands, or perhaps Frezier may have taken it
from him. The figures given by each of them are exa£lly alike.
In a hut a little farther on, where we went to beg fome water
to drink, the woman who gave us fome Was employed in Grip-
ping leaves, with long thin thorns on the ftalk, from a kind of
reed very common along the fides of the woods and roads. She
drew froin them a fort of green thread extremely fine-, much like
raw-filk, and of a light green cotour. She told Us, that (he after-
wards fpun this ftringy fubftance to make tines and fifhing nets
of it, which fhe faid lalled a long time. Perhaps it might be made
ufe of for other purpofes.
■yy Not far from thence, I faw for the fii-ft time, a kind of aloes
called pitbey xhQ leaf of which when fteeped like hemjp affords a
fubftance fit for fpinning, and of which tliey make linen cloth
in the Baft. From the mid^ of a fcore of leaves, about five feet
high, and at leaft three inches thick at the bottom, their edges
thorny, ending in a point, hollowed out, and of a fine green,
fprang up a green ftalk of about eight inches diameter at the
bottom, which diminiihed gradually to the top, and grew to the
heighth of at leaft thirty feet. From the heighth of about twenty
feet of this ft a!k quite to its fummit, there fprang branches to
the number ot twelve or fifteen, adorned with a number of fprigs,
almott likfi the growing ftalk of the lilly plant, when rifing about
two inches fiom the earth. Tbefe tufts of fprigs grow irre*
gularly along the branches, which are deftitute of any other
foliage, and fprcad thcmfclves almoft hoi-izontally. Without
doubt, thefe fprigs when arrived to a certain pitch of matoritf,.
6 break
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break of themfelves, and take root in the earth where they hap-
pen to fall. I picked up about fifteen with their roots* which
I carried on board, where we planted them in boxes placed over
our cabbins. They did very well there, and we fliould in all pro-
bability have preserved the greated part of them, if* notwith-
ftanding all our care, two cats which we had on board had not
fcratched up the earth Of thefe boxes, and poifoned it with' their
urine and excrement. We refolved at lafl:, though rather late,
to cover them with ^fhing nets, fupported by hoops, and we
preferved two plants of them as well as fome cottbh trees, raifed
from the feeds which we had fown. They were all tranfplanted
at our arrival at St. Malo's, into the garden of Beau Sejour at
St. Servant, vvhich w^s occupied by 3^. Duclos ,Guyot our
captain. '»^••■!^]^**• .of-'*^;';*; «,<■''?'"<''^*^'''''*ft'>*> V'-'-iV !>•»,'-
» The Portuguefe have perhaps remarked that the fprigs of the
ffitbet which have thus taken root of themfelves, do not thiive
fo well as thofe, which have been carefully put into ground well
tilled. This is probably what induces them to make holes of
about a foot fquare in the earth beneath the branches, and
about the plant itfelf, where I found five or fix of thefe fprigs
planted { and which, in reality, feemed to have thriven better
than thofe which had been wholly abandoned to nature. I can-
not fay, whether the pitbe bears any other fruit, or whether it
multiplier by, any other means.
Befides lemons and c-'nges, there is in the ifle of St. Cathe-
rine's a fort of refrcfhn for fportfmen. This fruit, which is
very common, is called tue American Indian fig. It is in fhape
much like cur figs. Its firfl fkin is green ; it then grows rather
yellow, and afterwards aflfumes the colour of red lacker on the
fide which has been expofed to the rays of the fun. This fkin
is fluck full of very fmall prickles. Thofe who gather this fruit
and peal it muft be very dextrous, not to fill their fingers
with thefe prickles, which are almofl imperceptible. Happily
they caufe more uneafinefs than mifchief, till one has found the
method of getting rid of them. " ; r i ,; ,»
Under
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 69
Under the (kin, which is about as thick as that of a fig is
found a. white covering, thin and tenderer than the other.
It inclofes a foft fubftance, of a bright red, mixed with fmall
grains^ like thofe of the fig. This fubftance has an acid
tafte, a little fweet, and extremely grateful. When people
eat a confiderable quantity of it their urine becomes red,
but without any harm refulting from it. This fruit is even
cooling. Our captain, his two fons and mylelf, were almoft the
only people who eat of it : the others did not dare to follow our
example through apprehenfion of fuffering fome ijiconvenience
from it. .; an'i ,rrirn .:;ir nrvrc-i::;).;) :r":\ ■:; "
In order to avoid nmning any of the rifques which I have
mentioned in gathering thefe prickly figs, get a fmall piece of
wood (haped like a bodkin, and flick it into the fig near the
ftalk ; cut off this ftalk with a knife, and holding the fruit in
this manner at the end of the bit of wood, peal it lightly all
round, without touching it with your fingers. - ■'
On Saturday the tenth of December we feht out fome people
to flioot in the ifland, in order to procure fome game to treat
^he Governor, whom M. de Bougainville had invited to dine
on board our frigate the next day. They brought nothing but
parrots, fnipes, and fome other Mrds.
We found in a wet marlhy foil a prodigious quantity of a
fort of crab which live on fhore, and make their retreat in holes
which they dig. They give them tlie name of tourlourous ; the big-
geft are not above two inches wide. The fhape of their fliell is
almoft fquare, of a brownifh red, growing lighter by degrees
towards the belly, which is of a clear red. This fliell or helmet
is pretty (Irong though thin. Their eyes are of a fliining black
and as hard as horn. They flioot out and drawn in again like
thofe of lobfters.
Thefe crabs have four legs on each fide, each of them com-
pofed of four joints, the lail of which is fiat and terminates in a
point. They make ufe of them to walk fideways, like common
crabs, and to dig up the earth. Befide thefe, they have two
othec
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
other legs or claws bigger than the former, but efpecially the
right, which is at leaft double che fize of the other. Thefe
claws or pincers are of a br^ht red, fhaped like thofe of
iea-^crabs; they make u(e of tiiem for cutting leaves^ and the roots:
of plants on which they feed. When they fee any thing which'
frightens them they H-rlke thcfe two claws againft each other,
as it were to frighten their enemy, and lift up the biggeft of
them perpendicularly, matching thus in a flate of defence ; but
retiring at the (ame tioae into their holes. Thefe claws as well as
their legs, aix. foilightly Bxed ta^ their body that they come ofF in
the hands of thofe who endeavour to take them, and the tourlon-
rou efcapes.
Both fexes have their tails bent under their bellies, where it
enters fo exa6tly; into a cavity which is in the fhell of the belly
that it can hardly be diftinguiihed. That of the male diminifhes
in fi2e quite to the end. The fieniale's is equally large to its
extremity. As faft as the female laya her eggs, they attach
themfelves to the long rough hairs with which the under part
of the tail is furuilhed. Thefe fupport, cover, and prevent
them from falling, or from being detached by the fand, herbs,
or other unequal furfaces. which fall in her way.
Thefe animals were fo numerous in this raarfhy ground, that
it was impoffible to fet down one's foot without crufhing feveral
of them. I cannot fay whether the inhabitants of the coafts
eat thefe animals, as they do in the Antilles, where they are of
great fervice to the Carribbees and negroes^ The Creoles them-
felves, according to father Labat, regale themfelves with them.
About ten o'clock in the morning, on Sunday the eleventh of
December, we received the Governor on board. He left
the town by two in the morning, in his canoe, with his foni
accompanied by a minifter from the King of Portugal, who was
firft prefident of the fovereign council of Rio Janeiro, by the
Oviodore, the major, and fome other officers of the garrifon.
The tide and a contrary wind had prevented their arriving
fooner.
The
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 71
The tent was pitched upon the quarter-deck, which was fct
out in form for the company } the fhip was fpread with the
quarter-cloths, and the French flag difplayed. When every body
was ieated, I faid mafs with the ufual folemnities ; and at noon
a dinner was fcrved up as elegant as polTible in our prefent
fituation. The King of Portugal's health was drunk, under a
difcharge of eleven pieces of cannon, which were all anfwered
regularly from the fort of Santa Cruz. '>» -I'
After dinner fome inferior ofHcers, the fame who had played
on different inftruments at the Governor's, played again, and
made a kind of concert, which laded about two hours. During
this amufement, a wind arofe unfavourable to the Governor's
return, the weather became overcaft, and fo heavy a rain fell
that it was fcarce pofTible to think of going back to the town,
or even to one of the forts. M. de Bougainville propofed a
party of play to amufe thefe gentlemen, which was accepted.
The wind and rain continuing, M. de Bougainville pcrfuaded
the governor and his company to lie on board. While we were
waiting for fupper, which confifl:cd only of the remains of the
dinner, and at which the Governor, as well as moft of the
reft of the company, drank only a glafs of water, 1 converfed
all the time with the Portuguefe minifter, who wanted no-
thing but practice to fpeak the French language well, and
who made ufe of very exprefllvc Latin words, whenever he was
at a lofs for a French term. This minifter, who was well ac-
quainted with Brazil, and was at that time upon his tour through
the country, according to cuftom, was fo obliging as tq anfwer
all my queftions, and gave me all the information I could wifti
relative to the country and its inhabitants, of which I fliall give
an account hereafter.
Meflieurs de Bougainville, and de Nerville, gave up their beds
to the governor, and the Portuguefe minifter ; the Oviodore lay
in the cabbin of M. Duclos Guyot our captain, and the other
officers would abfolutely lie upon the table under the tent, where
niatraffes were fpread for them. We all pailed the night as well
as we could. At four o'clock in the moining, the governor and
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
his company fet off in his boat for Fort Santa Cruz, to give
orders that we might be fupplied with oxen, &:c. and every
thing we wanted. At his going away, we faluted him with
nine pieces of cannon, which were immediately returned by
the fort.
Before We fat down to fupper, M. de Bougainville had begged
the favour of the Governor, to get the letters we bad written to
give our friends fome intelligence about us, convey^ to Portugal,
and from thence to France. A few days after, a Portuguele
fnow, which then lay at anchor before the town of Our Lady in
Exik, intended to fet fail f )r Rio de Janeiro, and had pro-
mifed us to deliver our paclf ets to fome one of the captains of
the fleet, which was to fet r ut from thence towards the end of
the month. The Ooverno very readily took this comminioii
upon himfelf} and M. df< Bougainville fent him our parcels.
But whether the Rio de Janeiro fleet was gone, before our let-
ters reached that place, or whether from any other accident, it
is certain that our parcela never came to hand.
Five or fix hours after the Governor's landing at Fort Santa
Cruz, a prefent came to us from him of two oxen, las many cows,
a heifer, two turkeys, twenty-fix Brasil ducks and drakes with
large red tufts, and other refrefhments. M. de Bougainville had
m the evening prefented him with a box full of fnuff-boxes»
painted and varnifhed by Martin, and with fome very hand-
fome fans.
The two following days were employed in compleating our
provifion of wood for firing j it was compofed of faffafras, cedar*
and of yellow wood of Brazil. Having been told l^ a free
negro, that the tree which bears the balfam of copaiba, known
under the name of copahu, is not rare in this country, I did
my utmoft to get fome of it, but could not fucceed. The Por-
tuguefe who had promifed to procure me fome, aflured me that
this balfam only flows during the full moon.
As our deliination was for a country, where our failors had
never yet been, and whofe feas and weather were reputed tern-
peftuous.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
71
peAuous, before we fet fail from Saint Catherine's, our captain,
with his ufual prudence and foiefight, took care to provide himf-
felf with fmall, top-mails and top-gallant (ails, to ferve in cafe
of bad weather.
For this purpofe he applied to the free negro, of whom I have
made mention more than once i he rendered us all the fervice
in his power with the greated readlnefs, and even made a propofal
to M. de Bougainville of going witJi him \ adding, that he wa»
leady to go to any place where we pleafed to take him. He was
a (lout fellow, and worked hard \ M. de Bougainville would wil-
lingly have acquieiced in his demand, if he had not been appre-
henfive that the Portuguefe might have complained we had
put in to decoy away the negroes of the country ; and that fuch
a report or fufpicion might be of dilTervice to thofe Frcnd^
vjfeiTels which might afterwards put in at St. Catherine's.
This negro went himfelf into the fored, to look out for fuch
trees as he thought might bed fuit our captain's purpofe.
When he had found them he informed him of it, and condufted
us there through thickets and bullies, in the midd of which we
tvcre obliged to climb up the mountain to get at thefe trees,
which were in the thick of the fored. We went thither well
armed, and in a pretty large body, as well for the convenience
of cutting down thefe trees, as to be able to convey them to the
fea fide. We met with no wild beads in the fored, but only two
or three large ferpents which we killed. As we were going along
I cut feven or eight bamboo canes ; they are a kind of knotty
reed, the joints of which are very clofe, and the clofer they are
the more bf f 'tiful are the canes. Thefe bamboos were of .a
good fize, froii; tive feet and a half to fix feet long j but unfor-
tunately were not come to their maturity. In drying them they
(htivelled up, and became as it were duted. I left them at
St. Malo's.
Ill 01 der to convey our wood to the water fide, we were obliged
to tie them with cords, and to drag them, fomctimes even to lift
them, over branches which dopped up our way. We were often
N 2 forced
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forced to make a road, which wc did with hatchets. I obferved
palm trees there of a prodigious heighth, of about a foot dia-
meter, and as (Iraight as bulruHies -, this is a kind of tree whole
trunk and branches are quite covered with fmall thorny excref-
fences, of about fix or eight lines in diameter, or fometimes more
at their bafe, projecting about half an inch, and the thorn,
which grows in the center, being about four lines long. The
bark of this tree is grey, and refembles that of the beach tree.
May not this be the fame, which is in our Antilles called
iot's epineuxl
■ On Tuefday morning a failor, after having cut fome grafs for
our cattle, fitting down by it with his legs bare, was bit near
the ancle by a ferpent, as he told us, about a foot and a half
long, of a reddifli yellow colour in ftreaks. He paid no atten-
tion to the bite, and as foon as he came on board he dined
heartily without uneafinefs, faying he was hungry. In about
half an hour after he found himfelf fick ; and perceiving his leg
very much fwelled and painful, he came and acquainted m€
with it. I began by endeavouring to keep up his fpirits, and
to eafe him of the fear which had feized upon him. Whilft I
was giving notice of this to the two furgeons of our frigate, he
•vomited, and did the fame once or twice in the fpace of an hour.
We made him take two drams of theriaca mixed in a glafs of
wine, with ten drops of volatile fpirit of fal ammoniac, and
after having fcarified the wound, which was already become black,
applied to it a plaifter of theriaca pounded with garlick. Not-
withrtanding this his ficknefs continued, and he vomited two or
three times more. The fame remedy was repeated. In the mean-
while, a Portuguefe officer from Fort Santa Cruz came on board,
to whom we related what had happened. The failor's account,
with the defcription of the reptile, gave the officer rcafon to
judge, that this ferpent was of one of thofe kinds which the
j)eople of the country call Jararaca. ** Its venom, faid he, is fo
dangerous, that it canfes inevitable death to thofe, who are not
excited by it to vomit witiun the four and twenty hours. But
fuicc
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
75
fince your failor has vomited, you may make yourfclvcs eafy
upon his account. Continue however to give him the fame
medicine, with the addition of an emetic. There are fevcral other
kinds of Jararaca, which are equally to be dreaded; efpccially
one, which is of an earth or cinder colour, with fome ftreaks on
the head which are rather darker." The next day, neither the
blacknefs of the wound, nor the inflammation of the leg being
increafed, the emetic was given to the patient, and a frefh plaifter
of the fame kind as the former was applied. After this no other
accident happened to him, and the wound was treated as a
common one. He was pinged twice afterwards, and from that
time was very well. In going into the woods and fields, you
are almoft always liable to be bit by thcfc dangerous reptiles,
which are very numerous there. We very frequently faw in the
fand on the fea fule, winding furrows formed by the traces of
ferpents which had palled there. If any one who has the mif-
fortune to bj bit by one of them, does not immediately meet
with proper afiirtancc, he muft expeft to die in the molt cruel
tortures. Some forts, efpecially thofe of the Juraracas, exhale a
very ftrong fmell of mulk. This fmell is of great fervice to thofe
who know it, to prevent their being furprifed by them.
The only lizard which I faw in the ifle of St. Catherine's,
might be about two feet long, and three or four inches broad.
Its fkin was black, fpotted with white from the head to the end
of the tail. The belly was much the fame, but the white was
rather prevalent ; all over the reft of the body, the black and
white was almoft equally difpofed in fpots of a regular figure :
its ftiape in other refpects was like that of the green lizards in
France. M. de Nerville, who was wuh me, was preparing his
gun to fire at him, when I perceived that the animal was dead.
We went towards it ; but as it already ftank very much, we did
not think proper to examine it with greater attention. Might
not this be what is called by the people of the country the
Maboya^ or Tejuguacu, and Iguana by Pifon and Margiaft ?
The
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
The rattle fnake is very common there : its length extends as
far as three feet, but very (clclom exceeds above halt' a foot more.
Its colour is of an iron grey, regularly (hcaktd. At the extremity
of its tail is fadened what the iipaniards call its cafcabelle^ and
for the fame reafon the ferpcnt caJcabiHa. This cafcabellc, which
we have chofe to call the rattle, on account of the noife it makes,
refembles the hulks of |)eas dried u(X)n the plant. It is divided
in the fame manner into feveral joints, which contain fmall
round little bones, whofe fri^ion produces a found much like
that of two or three rattlts, or (mall bells which make but a dull
noife. The day that M. de Belcourt and I were in the woods
looking for the animal whofe traces we had feen in the fand, wc
thought we heard this found Mixed whh a kind of hilling; which
alfo was much like the noile ufually made by gralhoppcrs. The
bite of this ferpent is fo dangerous, that it is happy for the in-
habitants of the countries where it is found, that nature has
given to this reptile a fign to warn them of its approach }
without which, its colour diHering very little from that of the
earth, it would be very difficult for them not to be furprifed by
it, and to avoid it. Tills animal is alfo called boicinininga.
To feed the cattle which we were taking with us from the
ifland of St. Catherine, we laid in a provifion of the flalks of
the banana tree^ with which we covered our quarter-deck, both
within and without. This forrage is the moft convenient for
tranfportation j as it takes up very little room, and was therefore
lefs cumberfome than any ether, licfides, meadows are very
fcarce in this iiland, as well as along the coa(^ of the Continent,
and the little grafs which grows there is marlhy. It would have
been difficult to have procured a fufficient quantity of it; and
that even, not being come to a ftate of maturity fit for keeping,
would have heated, and afforded a very bad fubfiflence for thefc
cattle. The ftalks of the banana were a very good fubftitute,
as much on account of their keeping very well, as becaufc they
are very nourilhing. We had dniy to cut them in pieces with
a knife,
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 77-
a knife, after which our oxen and (heep ate them with great
eagcrncfs.
The banana is a plant, the ftcm of which is compoftd only
of leaves rolled one upon the other, of a reddifli white colour in
fome places, and a grecnilh yellow in others. When the root
flioots out a fprig, there arc only two leaves rolled one within the
other, which appear coming out at the edge of the ground.
Thcfc leaves unfold and expand thcmfelves, to give way to two
others, ariling from the fame center. Thefc being rolled up as
the former, expand themfelves in the fame manner, and are fol-
lowed by feveral others, which growing higher and broader as
they fiicceed each other, and being always rolled up in the fame
manner, form at length the ftcm of this arboreous plant, which
rifcs to eight, ten, and even twelve feet ', but not any higher.
Then the leaves grow out from the top, and the middle of the
ftem, to which they are connefled merely by a foot ftalk about
an inch in diameter, a fnot long, round on one fide, and hol-
lowed on the other by a groove in the middle. This foot ftalk
being continued, forms the vein or band which runs along the •
middle of the leaf, which is fometimes fifteen or eighteen inches
wide, and fix or feven feet long. The fupine dilk of this leaf
is of a fine green colour, th^ prone diik of a green inclining to
grey, which makes it appear filvered. It is nearly of the fub-
ftance of very thick parchment ; yet it is fo delicate, and its fize
expofes it fo much to the action of the wind, that it is divided into-
feveral flips. Thefc flips extend from the vein running in the
middle towards the edges of the leaf, by the fide of the fmaller
veins running in the fame direftion, and appearing, fome like
narrow filver ribbands, others like flips of the fame colour, fixed
to the vein in the middle, and rolled upon themfelves.
When the banana is grown up to its natural height, it is from
nine to ten inches in diameter, and the f^em of it is fo tender,,
that, though the leaves of which it is compofcd, are joined very
clofe to each other, it may eafily be cut with a knife, or even
with a fingle ftroke of a hedging bill, taken a little aflant > for
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
the leaves are pulpy and ftill of juice, and this is the reafbii
why it always thrives bed in a rich and rtioift foil.
When it is come to fuch maturity as to be capable of bearing
fruit, it puihes out, from the middle of the top of its flem, an-
other ftem of about an inch and half in diameter, and three or
four feet in length, which is covered with circular rows of buds
of a yellow colour bordering on green. A large bud in the fhape
of a heart, from fix to feven inches in length and three in diame-
ter, terminates this ftem. It is compofed of feveral pellicles laid
one over another, the outfide of which is red, and has a fecond
covering which is compact, fmooth, and of the colour of the
lilack. This bud rifes from an aperture made by the divifion of
the ftem into four parts. -At firft the ftem is ftrait, but in pro-
portion as the bloflbms difappear, and give way to the fruit,
which fucceeds them, the increafe of weight bends it infenfibly,
and draws it more and more towards the ground.
In our Antilles, this ftaik laden j^rith fruit is called a regime.
I know not by what name the Portuguefe call it. One of thefe
flalks is foraetimes furniftied with as many bananas, as one man
can carry. The fruit is faftened to the part which before fup-
ported the flower. It is cuftomary to cut off the ftalk, as foon
as the fruit upon it begins to change from green to yellow. It is
then fufpended in an airy part of the houfe, and the fruit is eaten
as it grows ripe, which is difcovered, by its giving way to the
finger, and becoming yellow. We hung up about a fcore of thefe
ftalks round the quarter deck ; and fomc of our officers were fo
fond of this fruit, and eat it fp eagerly, that they would not give
it time to ripen. The banana is about two inches in diameter,
and the longeft I have feen of them did not exceed fix inches in
length. The two ends terminate in a rounded point : the figure
of it is angular, but the angles are very obtufe. The fkin is
fmooth, pliable, rather thicker than that of a fig, and much
more firm. The pulp is of a yellowifli white, and of the con-
fidence of very fat new theefe, blended with its cream; or of
butter recently churned, which the banana refembles very much,
efpecially
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
79
efpecially when roafted. It tafVes indeed much like this kind of
butter, fuppoflng it to have been mixed with the pulp of quinces
rather too ripe. It is efleemed an excellent kind of food ; for
my part, I found nothing extraordinary in it ; though I eat the
fruit both raw and roafted, ripe and unripe, in order to judge of
the difference of the tafte.
We had been very defirous of providing ourfelvcs with a quan*
tity of batatas and yamst but they were not yet in a ftatc fit
to be taken out of the ground. The batata is a fpecies of pota-
toe, or topinambou, but much more delicate.
The yam is a creeping plant, furnifhed with branches which
take root, and fpring up again without cultivation ; fo that if
care is not taken to root out a number of them, they will foon
fpread all over the foil, though there (liould not have been
more than one or two roots planted at firft. The ftem is fquare,
of the iize of one's little finger, or thereabouts. Its leaves are
cordiform, having their apey a little lengthened out and pointed.
They are of a dark green colour, as large as thofe of the lappa
major or greater bardana. They grow lefs in fize as tkey are
placed farther from the root ; but they are ftill fmooth, thick,
and pulpy, fixed to the ftem in pairs, by fliort petioles, fquare,
and rather curvated. From the ftem arife fome clufters of fmall
campanulate fiowers, the piflii of which becomes a filiqua or
pod, filled with fmall black feeds. Thefe feeds are feldom fown,
becaufe the plant thrives better and fader from (lips. For this
purpofe, the head of the fruit, with part of the ftem fupporting
it, is put into the ground.
The root is more or lefs thick in proportion to the goodnefs of
the foil in which it grows. The rind is unequal, rough, thick,
of a deep violet colour, and very hairy. The infide is of the
confiftence of beet-root, of a greyifli white, bordering fome-
times upon a flefti colour. It is eaten prepared in the fame man-
ner as the beet-root, boiled in water, or roafted on the embers,
fometimes with the meat. It is well tafted, very nourifhing, and
O eafy
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
cafy of digcftlon. The negroes and Portuguefe are remarkably
fond of it.
One of the two married Acadians, who were lodged in a hut
on fliore, was afflidled with a violent diarrhoea, which baffled
all the Ikill of the two furgeons of our frigate. The freed negro
offered to cure him with a ptifan, and might probably have fuc-
ceeded, if he had had more time for the application, for the man
found himfelf much better after having taken it only for two days.
What this negro called a ptifan, was no more than a fimple de-
codlion of the ends of the buds and infant fruit of the guaiava.
If this fruit had been a little farther advanced, perhaps it might
have been ftill more ferviceable. The Acadian not having laid
in a ftock of thefe buds, before we failed, had it not in his power
to continue the medicine : his diforder returned upon him with
greater force, and did not leave him till about a fortnight before
our departure from the Malouine iflands, where he began to find
himfelf better a few days after our landing. The wholefomenefs
of the air, added to the exercile he took, made him ftronger
every day, and at the time we fet fail from thence, he thought
himfelf perfeftly cured.
The fame negro had cured the Acadian's wife's fifter, whofe
name is Benoit, in a few days of an inflammation in her legs,
which had got to fuch a height, that ihe could fcarcely ftaind.
This inflammation was attributed to a fcorbutic habit. However
this was, fhe complained of great pains in her ancle-bones, which
went off after the negro had applied a fomentation made of fome
herbs of the country boiled in clear water. In fix or feven days
file was cured; and they afTured me, that the negro had ufed no-
thing but the guaiava.
The guaiava is a tree well known in our American iflands.
Thofc which were called by that name on the ifland of St.
Catherine's, were not more than eight feet higl), and the trunk
between feven and eight inches in diameter. None of thofe
i faw were of a larger fize. The bark of it was fomething whiter
than that of the apple tree, its branches extended in the farne
manner,
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manner, and the fruit, which was very young, refembled apples
of about a month's growth. By the leaves and the fliape of the
tree, I took it at firfl for a quince-tree, I was told, that the
fruit when ripe is excellent, and it was reprefentcd to me as of
the fame kind as our guaiavas of the Antilles ; although the de-
fcription, which father Labat gives of this tree and its leaves,
does not anfwer to the guaiava tree of Brazil. In other rcfpef^s,
the Portuguefe afcribe the fame properties to their guaiava tree,
as father Labat does to that of Martinico.
The fame Acadian, when he came on board again found him-
felf very much incommoded with a fmall tumor, which had come
a few days before on the great toe of his left foot. This tumor
increafed, and the pain it occafioned, increhfed in proportion.
He fhewed it to the dodor (for fo we call the two principal fur-
geons on board) who immediately difcovered it to be anigua or
nigue^ or the piqugy as it is called at Peru. This is an infe£l fo
exceedingly fmall, that it is fcarcely vifible. A particular defcrip-
tion of it may be found in M. Ulloa's voyage to Peru, which
exa£Uy agrees with what we faw at the ifland of St. Catherines.
Our Acadian was cured by extracting the neft, and applying to-
bacco alhes to the part. The legs of this infe(5V, fays the author
I have juft referred to, are not formed for fpringing like thofe
of fleas, which is a very providential circumflance, for if it had
the power of leaping, there is no living creature in the parts
where thefe infe6ls are found, but what would be full of them.
Such a breed would deftroy three fourths of mankind, by the dif-
ferent accidents it might bring upon them.
The nigua always harbours in the duft, and particularly in
dirty places. It faftens upon one's feet, even upon the foles of
them, and upon one's fingers, and pierces the skin fo fubtilely,
that it makes its way almoft without being felt. It is I'eldom per-
ceived, till it begins to extend itfelf. At firft, there is no great
difficulty in pulling it out 5 but if it has once got in only irs head,
it fixes itfelf fo firmly, that it cannot be got rid of without the
lofs of fome of the parts adjacent. If it happens not to be dif-
O 2 covered
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
covered foon enough, it pierces through the firft (kin without
refiftance, and lodges itfelf there, where it continues, fucking the
blood, and makes itfelf a neft of a fine white membrane refem-
bling in ihape a flat pearl. Within this fpace it lies fo that its
head and feet are turned towards the outfide for the convenience
of nourishment, and the reft of its body towards the infidc of
the membrane in order to depofit its eggs there. As the eggs are
laid, the membrane grows larger} and in four or five days time,
becomes one fixth of an inch in diameter. It is of the utmoft
confequence to remove this, otherwife, it will burft, and fpread
about an infinite number of fpawns, like nits; that is to fay, fo
many niguas, which will infinuate themfelves prefently into the
parts about, and create a great deal of pain, not to mention the
difficulty of diflodging them. Sometimes they will penetrate
even to the bone { and after one has fucceeded fo far as to get
rid of them, the pain continues till the fiefh and fkin are
entirely healed.
The operation is tedious and painful. It confifts in feparating
with the point of a needle the fle[h which touches the mem-
brane, wherein the eggs are contained ; and this is not eafy to
be done without cracking the membrane, a circumftance abfo-
lutely neceflary to be guarded againft. After having detached
every ligament even to the fmalleft, the pearl is next to be re-
moved, which is larger or fmaller in proportion to the time the
infed has been lodged there. If unfortunately the neft fhould
be broken, double care muft be taken in feparating all the roots,
and particularly in fecuring the principal nigua ; who, if (he
efcapes, will begin again to lay her eggs before the wound is
clofed, and burying herfelf in the fiefli would make it much
more difiicult to remove her. In the cavity made by the tumor,
they put fome hot aflies of chewed tobacco.
Ahhough this infedl is not felt at ihe time of its penetrating
through the (kin, by the next day it caufes a violent and very
painful itching, particularly in fome parts, fuch as under the nails.
Tke
I
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
h
The pain is not fo great at the bottom of the foot, the (kin there
being thicker.
It is obfervedl that the nigua has a mortal antipathy to certain
animals, particularly the Cerda, which it devours by degrees, and
whofe fore and hind feet are found after its death full of
holes. ' -'■■■*' ^•■'- '"•_• ■• ■■■•' ■•'- •"'-: "- ' -■ - -J
Notwithftanding the fmallnefs of this infefl, it has been ob-
ferved to be diftinguifhed into two fpecies, the one venomous^
the other not. The latter is of the colour of fieas, and makes-
the membrane white, in which it depofits its eggs. The other
fort is yellowifh, and its neft is of the colour of afhes. One of
the properties of this fpecies is, when it has infinuated itfelf into
the extremity of the great toe, to caufe a very high inflammation
in the glands of the groin, accompanied with (harp pains, which
do not go off till the eggs are extirpated. It is to M. de Juflieu
that we owe this didinClion of the niguas into two fpecies.
That gentlemen, as well as the other French Academicians, wha
accompanied him in his voyage to Peru, having had the morti-
fication of repeatedly experiencing thefe pains, which they knew
not how to account for. ' '' ^' - ' ' '-'•
During the great heats, the utmoft care is neceflary to avoid
wetting one's feet. Without this precaution as appears by expe-
rience a man is liable to a diforder of fo dangerous a nature,,
that it is generally mortal.
On Wednefday, the 14th of December, having got our pro-
vifions on board, and the wind being foutherly, at ten in the
morning we unmoored and fent our longboat on (hore for the
reft of our things, and the Acadians. Before they were takea
into the boat, their baggage was examined with great care to
fee if no Cancrelas. bad got in amongft it, fome of them having,
been feen in their hut. Thefe are infeds of the (ize of a May
bug, and fomething of the fame form, though rather flatter
and longer, having a coat of a very dark green, but neither fo
bard nor fo folid. They do an incredible deal of mifchief ia
(hips, as they multiply very faft, and lodge themfelves every
where,.
m
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i
84
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
f '!it:
where, eating through paper, books, cloaths,. bifcuits and even
wood itfelf. They fpoil every thing with their excrements and
tlie difagreeablenefs of their fmell. As fome of them had been
feen in the hut, where the Acadians lived, it had been recom-
mended to them to clean their cloaths thoroughly : and wc had
the good fortune to be as free from them as from other infeds
ufually met with at fea. At the Antilles, thefe infe£ls are known
by the name of Ravels.
At the fame time we difpatched M. Alexander Guyot to Fort
Santa Cruz, to make our apology to the Commandant for not
faluting him at our departure, which we could not do on account
of the live ftock we had on board. j= ^, .' >,j* v. ^'..,./. . ^ -,
At eleven we fet fail, and after doubling the point of Bon-port
anchored in Hx fathom water, muddy ground, about two thirds
of the diftance of one (hore from the other towards the north
fidej here we waited for our longboat and yawl, and to take in
ten oxen, which was finiflied by five in the afternoon. We lay
to after this with one anchor all night, the weather being dull
and hazy. -•.-;- vnifrr •■;.»*» ^--'.-^ -■■f>'* •'^.'.■iw^v, ^j
Thus we took leave of the ifland of St. Catherine's, where, as
has been fcen, we did not meet with the fame caufe of complaint
as admiral Anfon had done. It might be made an excellent
habitation, if they would take the pains to clear it. Befides the
little town I have fpoken of, there are only a few huts or plan-
tations on the coart of the ifland and continent adjacent. All
the reft is a foreft covered with lofty trees, and, as it were,
choaked up with underwood. On the ifland particularly, the
fpecies of thorny aloe grows fo thick, as to render it in many
parts almcft impenetrable. On the Ikirts of the woods to-
wards the coaft, there are many different forts of trees of the
height and thicknefs of apple- trees, but whofe leaves are for the
moft part fmooth, of a beautiful green, and fliaped like thofe of
the wild laurel. There is fcarce any other di&rence between
tJiem than in theii' height or thicknefs. i obfcrved one amongft
them, which at tiiil: fight might have been taken for an almond
tree:
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
?5
tree : but the leaves were a little too large : the fruit had the ap-
pearance of a green almond, but on a clofe examination was
found to be made fomewhat in the ftiape of a heart. Another
bore a flower or fruit, refembling the vefides or membranes
which encompafs the fruit of the plant called Alkakengas. This
Brazilian fruit is of the fize of a fmall nut, and the outfide is of
a whiiifli yellow. It opens itfelf into four parts, and is com-
pofcd of feveral fimilar coats, whofe internal furface is of the
colour of the fineft carmine. ' Thefe barks, or parts of the fruit
or flower are fo ranged, that the middle of the upper coat forms
a covering to the edges, by which the four internal divifions
are conne£ted. Thefe coats are eight in number, four external,
and four internal, each of them about the thicknefs of the twen-
tieth part of an inch : on the infide is fafliened to the center, a
fmall white ball, which is undoubtedly the piftillum j if it is a
flower I am defcribing. I fliewed it to a Portuguefe, who could
not inform me either of its name or properties.
The caraguata is a plant very common in thefe woods, and
moft of the rocks upon the coaft are covered with it. It is like-
wife found in great plenty upon the branches of large trees, like
the mifletoe upon our apple-trees and oaks. It has a long,
fharp, prickly leaf, almoft like that of the flags, which plant it
refembles both in the fhape of its leaves and their fituation, as
they all come out from the root : but this produces a round
ftem furniflied with fome leaves that are of the colour of the
fineft carnation, as is likewife the tip of feme of the internal
leaves of the tufr, which are neareft to the flcm. At the top of
this ftem are produced fpikes of flowers of a lively red, which
are fucceeded by a kind of fruit half an inch long, of the thick-
nefs of a large quill, and of a violet colour. It contains a
white vifcous fubftance full of feeds, which are flattifh, reddifli,
and very fmall. I iTiould imagine, that the caraguata is a fpecies
of the algae or flags. la a narrow path traced out near the
border of the woods, we found fome plants called by the Bra-
zilians juquiriy and ciiaco^ and by us ferijftive. Of thefe we faw
twa
l!
26
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
two forts } that which I am going to fpeak of, produces (lems
about two feet high, full of branches, and (Iriated, nearly qua-
drangular, of a green colour, and pretty well defended with
fmall yellowifh prickles. The leaves are ftatiotled oppofitely
upon the pliant branches : the prone diik is of a whitifh green,
the fupine diflc of a pale green. From the length of the ftem
feveral branches pu(h out, whofe extremities are ornamented with
a fmall round head, which is hairy, and of a whitifh purple.
This is the flower, which is fucceeded by a hulk or fmall pod,
crooked, and of a chefnut colour ; when ripe, it is covered with
fmall white hairs.
The fecond fort does not rife to any great height from the
ground } I have only feen it in the Tandy lands along the coaft :
ic feeros to creep as it were, and does not differ from the former.
Both of them fliut their leaves and let their branches fall,
as if they were blafled, almoft at the ini^ant they are touched
with the hand. The next moment they appear again in their
full vigour. It is from this circumdance, no doubt, that they
have obtained the names of the cbajle beri>, herba cafta^ mimofa.
The leaves when eaten are a deadly poifon, which can only be
countera6led by eating the root itfelf. The fame leaves, when
applied as a cataplafm, are a cure for fcrophulous humours.
The foil of St. Catherine's ifland, and the coafts of the con-
tinent are fo prodigioufly fertile, that the bed fruit grows there
in abundance almoft without culture. The foreils abound with
odoriferous Ihrubs. The road affords a very great variety of
excellent fi(h. The figures of thofe, to which our feamen have
given the names of BaJaou, Lune, Brune, Lame d'epee^ Crapaux
de mett &c. may be feen in the plates. The long beak by which
the Balaou is didinguifhed induced me to name it the BeccaJJinc '
de mer, or fnipe-fifh. The extremity of this beak which is very
folid, and as hard as that of a bird, is about a quarter of an
inch in length, and of the colour of the fined vermillion. Its
body is almoft tranfparent : a Hllet or flripe of greenifh blue runs.
from the gill, to the tail : its fcales are fo fine that they are hardly
6 difcernable.
Ta THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 87
cUfcernable. Its fle(h is firm, and has an excellent flavour. This
Lune, or moon-fi,(h, appears to be covered with a flieetof filver.
The Lifme d' ipic^ or fword- blade, could hardly have a name
better adapted to its figure. The Oapauv de mer^ or porcupine
fi(h, might have been called fea-urchins their body being covered
with prickles about two lines in length. In the fpecies which
approached the neareil to the ordinary fiiape of fifhcs, the jaw,
was armed with teeth, which were pretty large and flat like the
canine-teeth in the human fpecies, and was not unlil^e tj^^.|)i^tna||
mouth even in the lips. ,^j? ..,;* ..^;i « .,..-.1.' * .j, ..^ ^uu f,..,. <
We did not catch any beautiful fhell-fifh here j the only one
deferving notice was a helmet (liell, which was at lead eight
inches in diameter. We met, with a foldier-filh, and fome fmall
fea-horfes. Our filhing was always accompanied with fear; on
account of the fliarks which very much infeft this road.
The fliarks taken by us, a fpecimen of which is exhibited in
the plate?, were not of an extraordinary fize j they were of that
fpeci'^3 called the dog-fifli. On an attentive examination of thar
rows of teeth, we thought they atpounted to feven in number,
inftead of fix, which a^e generally attributed to them. Thpy
were flat, tiiangular, fliarp, and their edges were fi^rrated.
They did not appear to be firmly fixed in the jaw fike thofe of*
other animals. They were moveable, openiiig and (hutt'^ng lik^
the fingers, in fuch a manner that each rpw in recovering its
fituation lay over the next to it, fo that the upper row; ben^jng
towards the inner part of tlie gullet, filled up the vacuity or in-
terval between the lower row of teeth. They are difpofed like
the dates of a roof, or, perhaps, like the leaves of an artichoke, ,
It is faid that the fliaik is conftantly preceded by another fifli
called the Pilot : we can affirm the contrary; at leaft we h^vc
fcveral times feen fliarks without this harbinger.
The pilot is among the number of beautiful and good Tea firfi;.
It is of a blue colour difpofed in ftripes j fome of them, to the,
number of fix are pf a fine blue, which upon the back is of a
deep cafl;, but becomes gradually lighter as they verge towards
P ' ' the
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•
88
•
JOURNAL
OF MY
• ••
VOYAGE '
•
the
belly.
Four other ftripcs,
together
with the h^ad and tail,
are
of a
very clear blue, oi
•of
a white dafhed with blue.
The
eyeball is of a fine gold colour, except the pupil which is black i
the two forks of the tail are white.
I did not recollect this fifh by the defcription given of it in
M. Valmont de Bomare's dictionary of natural hiftory. It feems
^rather to belong to fome fpecies of the Remora. Is he midaken
in this article, as he is in feveral others ? Or have I been im-
pofed upon by being told that a fifh was called the Pilots which
has no title to that name ? See the figure of it in the plate.
As we did not fee any fharks preceded by pilots ; fo neither
did we catch any one that had not upon it feveral fucking fifhes
faftened clofe to it about the head. The Brazilians call the
fucking fifh Iperuquibay and Piraquibay the Portuguefe, Piexepo-
gador. The largefl: that we caught was about eight inches long,
and two and a half over in the broadefl part. The upper
part of the head, which is two inches long, is flat, refembling
an ox's palate, furrowed acrofs, and faftened to it in fuch a
manner that the edges fhould not adhere. Thefe furrows are
armed with prickles fo hard and folid, that when rubbed upon
wood, they a£l as a fine file. By means of thefe, the fucking
lifh faftens himfelf fo ftrongly about the gills and belly of the
Aiark, that he fufFers himfelf to be taken along with him. He
cannot even be feparated without a knife or fome other inflru-
Bient. The under jaw is longer than the upper. _ This filh has-
finall eyes of a gold-coloured yellow, and the pupil is black. An-
infinite number of fmall tubercles, that are pretty folid, fupply
the place of teeth. Near each of the gills is a triangular fin
about an inch long r there are two others near the belly, which
unite at the place of infertion, and one under the belly and'
another upon the back, which extend from the middle of the
body to the tail. Its fkin is fmooth and flippery like that of an.
eel, and of the colour of brown flate.
Fvfany have miflaken the back of the fucking fifli for the
belly, on account of the part by which it fallens itfelf to the-
Ilurk«.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 89
fhark. I have obferved it with all the attention I was maAer of,
and am convinced of the milUkea of authors as to this parti-
cular ) as appears by the plates, ,. ■i'Ml*) >- j«./ f i .;!.■.♦ :tu' {t> V
One of our officers had a prefent made him of two young
Tucantt called by Tome Tukan, and by the Spaniards in the
JdhtQus of America, Preacher^ becaufe this bird, it h faid,
perching on the top of a tree whi'e others are afleep below,
makes a noife with his tongue refembling words ill articulated,
and Ipreads the found on every fide, led the birds of prey fhould
feize the opportunity of devouring the others while they are
aileep.
The Toucan is pretty nearly of the fize of a wood-pigeon ; but
ftands higher on its legs, which are of a blueilh grey as well as
its feet, which are armed with pretty long claws ; its tail is about
four inches long, fometimes black, and rounded at the end ) but
ufually variegated with blue, purple, and yellow upon a dark
brown. The back and wings are of this laft colour, except fome
black feathers in the wings. Its head, though very large, is very
fmall in proportion to its bill, which is between feven and eight
inches long from the place of infertion to the end. The upper
part near the head is about two inches at the bafe, and as it
lengthens forms a figure pretty neaily triangular, and at the
fame time convex at the upper part, the two lateral furfaces
being a little raifed and rounded. The upper one which forms
the infide of the bill is hollow, having ferrated edges or lips.
The lower one is (haped like the upper, only it is i:ather con-
<:ave underneath. Thefe two arc of an equal length, arc in-
ferted into each other, and grow gradually lefs towards the
extremity, which is rather crooked and fliarp underneath. The
tongue is a whitifh membrane almoft as long as the bill, but
very narrow and flat, and has the appearance of the point of
a peui its eyes are round, beautiful, lively, and fparkling,
znd are inferted into two bare cheeks, which are covered
wiih a fky-coloured membrane. In fome the iris is of a clear
blue enciicled with white, in others it is quite black. There
! . P 2 are
M
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i.
ti
90
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
I'
are different fptcies of them, nt le^fl; thiey dWHer from each other
in tbe, colour of their bill, and their feathers. The bill o1 fointf
ii green, having a black circle and two white fpots near the root.
That of others is black, the infide red, with a greeniih yellow
circle near tlie head. They arc very coirvmcn in this country.
Wc were liktwife affurcd that great in/subcjs of pheafants were
found here } but wc faw nor»«. The gieen parrots fly here in
flocks 1 e tlve fparrows in Prance. We kilted great numbers of
theMi, and found them to be as good as the pigeons in our dove*-
cotes. Lions, panthers, leoj^ards, ounces, and tygers, inf -fl ' ^e
woods and make travelling dangerous. It is happily v v ' 'Jc i*
that they come near inhabited places. The water J ju i. • i
ii of am excellent quality. But all thefe advantage? irr Icfeattd'
by the inconvenience arifing from a vei7 Mnw) '''-fome a*', which^
is probably the catife of the pale complcxirr r i»e white pcopJe'
who iaiiafeit this country. From th^/e wodds, which the Am
never penetrates, grofs vapours arifc without intermlflion, which
form continually thick fogs on the tops of the mountains fur-
roundinp the illand. The low grounds which are very marfhy,
are equally mi,, v.imes c ^etween five or fix
leagues, w^en the wind iu towards us from the fhore. They
t !i. " - 5 would
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 91
tvoiHci even give us notice of a fail, at the fame diftancc, if to
windward of us. Thty ftaycd there about half a quarter of
an hour, and returned more than once to the place after they
had i]uitted it.
Befidcs the birds ah^ady ntcntioned, wc frequently met with
Ltiards. The Portugviefe give this name to a kind of crow, whofe
plumage i J of a fine pale blue. Thcfe, they fay, are the ravens
of the coimtry. Their ftiapc is the (iiinc, and they are almoll as
unpalatable. The Tu'perangas are of the "0 uf the thrufli j their
wings, tail, and part of their bill arc of a dc^ > brown j the reft of
their plumage is of a beautiful vermilion tiiu nrcd with carmine,
and inclining to fcarlet. They are called by lo u: of our Jeamen
Lorys, by others C
four wings, two of v hich were tranfparent like
mon flies, and two opaque, Imooth, brown an
outer ones of the May 'bug, and like thofe, fer^
inclofe the under ones. The head is black, flia
foil, and furnifhed witi two antenna: which arc
four lines long, and fc m to be compofed of fma
into each other by theii points. The eyes which aie [)laced near
thel'e antennse, are round, black and firm as horr they arc
fparkling and prominent, and of the fize of the fma, .ft poppy-
feed. The body and k^s which are fix in number, are of a
darkifti brown. With tl e naked eye one may eafily perceive fix.
rings gradually decreafin in fize from the neck to the extremity
of the body, which term lates in a rounded point. Thefe rings-
are as folid as thofe of wiich the body of the May-fly is com-
pofed. The laigeft ring which forms all the fore part of the
body.
ne. They had
ofeof our com.,
folid like the
as a cafe to
like the tre-
kewife black,
orns infertcd
r3
!i
If'
I.'
I m
pa
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
m
body, to which the legs are articulated, is fotnething more than
two lines broad, and two in length, and is covered with a down
or Jight duft like the wings of butterflies. From this part, and
from the head proceed rays of light, refembling that of the glow-
worms which are ken in France during the fummer feafon, and
at the beginning of autumn.
I put one of thefe flies into a piece of paper when I went to
bed, intending the next day to make a drawing of it. But when
I was going to fet about it, the fly was not to be found. It had
gnawed its way through the paper, and made its efcape. The
day following, when I was laid down, I perceived a light in one
of the places where I had put my books. I thought no more of
the iire-flies, and imagined at firfl: that this light proceeded from
the lamp in the binnacle, which was near the window of my
cabbin; but perceiving the light change its place, I recollef^ed
that it rauft be the fly which had got away the preceding night.
Having caught and indofed it in a glafs veflel, the next day I
obferved it at my leifure, and drew a sketch of it.
When we left Montevideo, we faw the fame appearance upon
the river of Plata, or Rio de la Plata, during the unexpedled calm
that happened on the day of our departure. As thefe ditfufed, a
more brilliant and Iparkling light than thofe of the idand of
St. Catherine, I put fome of them with frefli grafs into a glafs
vefTel which I inclofed in another, and having placed it upon my
table, fetched a book which I read with great eafe without the
alCftance of any other light, though the print was very fmall.
' The next morning I took one out of the velTel, and transfixing
it with a pin, which I ftuck into the table, I made a drawinij.
of it.
It was four lines broad, and eleven and an half long includ-
ing the cap of three lines which covered the head.
The body was furnilhed with four wings. The two upper
ones were of a fine black velvet lace, having a ftreak of gold
coloured yellow near the outward edge. This reached fi oin the
nepk to two thirds of the length of the wing. The hood was
intircly
4
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
93
intirely of the fame colour, except a large black fpot in the middle
near the neck. This hood had the fame motions as the head,
which was round, and ferved it for an helmet : extending the
breadth of a line beyond it, quite round. On the fore-part of th»
head, two black antennae, as flender as a fme hair, and three lines
in length, were placed above the eyes, which were black, not very
prominent, and refembled the feed of the amaranth. Three
fmall legs, equally black, came out from each fide of the body ;
quite covered at the place of infertion, with very fhort. fmall,
fine hair of a yellow orange colour. The hind part was t y^ ipofed
of five rings, the two neareft the body, were black and covered
with a fliort velvet fliag ; the two next were invefted with golden
hair, and the fifth, which was as broad as either of the other
two taken together, and which alfo completed the termination of
the body in a rounded point, was likewife befet with a black
velvet (hag, but rather longer than that of the other rings, Thefe
lings were not fo firni as thofe which formed the body of the
preceding fly ; they bent under the flighteft preflare of the finger,.
The firft fly emitted fcarce any rays of light but from the head ?
this diffufcd them from every part of its body, the head alone
excepted. Thofe which I had kept clofe in frefli giafs, lived
four days, and preferved the fplendor of their light with almofi!
as much brilliancy as at firfl:, even to the time of their death.
Before we quit the road of St. Catherine's, I Ihall mention x
few circumftances relative to the Brazilians, which I learned from
the firft prefident of the fupreme council of Rio Janeiro, whom I
have fpoken of above.
I did not fee any bread made of corn, except at the Governor's
©f St. Catherine's. In every other houfe the Caflavi bread was
fubftituted in its room. This is a kind of a baked pafte made
«f the flower of the root of the Manioc, which is looked upon
as a ibong poifon, when it is eaten raw. I have however feerr
chikiren, who were employed in taking off the rind of it to make
the Caliavi) eat it taw without finding any ill confequence.
Semo.
(II
I 111
^h.
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1*1
94
JOURNAb OF MY VOYAGE
Some of the mhabitants u&d to roaft it onthecoals, then ftrlp
off the outflde and eat it.
There was but one fort of Manioc, which I met with on the
ifi^fid of St. Catherine'^, and about the homfi^s on the continent.
Laet, who is quoted in the colkdion of voyages publidied by
the Abbe Prevot, afiirm^ that there are feveral forts of it, one in
particular at Brazil, whi( h is there called jiyf>i, and may be eaten
raw without any danger. Some nations, add? he, o/'tke rac^ dftbe
Topouyai eat likewifc the common^J^anioc raiVt which h$i the eff^Sf of
poifon on all other people : hut the/e are not hurt by it, being accujlomed
to eat it jrom their infancy. Tjiofe however, wliom we faw eat-
ing it raw, were not of the race of the Tapouyas. Th?y were
white childien born of Portuguefe parents. The leaves of this
Manioc come very near in fhape to thofe of the Fiony.
The roots are dried before the fire on hurdles, and ' then being
fcraped with fliarp ftones, are made into a kind of meal, the
fmell of which lefembles that of ftarch. This meal is put into
large pots, where it is ftirred till it grows thick, as is done in
France with the black wheat. When it is cold and become of
the confluence of a ftiff jelly, its tafte differs little from that of
white bread. What they provide for their cruiises and land
expeditions is thoroughly baked, and is therefore firmer and
harder for the convenience of carriage. It is fometimcs boiled in
broth, and makes a ■ very nourifliing difli, much like our rice-
Ibup. Thefe roots pounded or grated fre(b, and before they
have been expofed to the fire, yield a juice as white as milk,
which, if it is but fet in. the fun, curciles like cheefe, and becomes
very good food with the leaft affillance of thie fire. The method
of fcraping the Manioc roots with fharp ftones, is an invention
of the Brazilians, who are not at all acquainted with the me-
chanic arts of Europe. The Portuguefe, who were born or merely
fettled on the ifland of St. Catherine's, and on the coaft of the
main-land, which cncompaffes it, ufe for this purpofe a large
wooden wheel, the points of which have on the outer furface a
groove. This groove is covered with an iron grater, upon which
the
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
95
I •■
the roots are placed, one perfon prcfTing them a little down,
while another turns the wheel, which has the fame efTefl as a
tobacco grater. By this contrivance much time and labour is
favcd. But they did not preferve the white juice, which drop-
ped from thefe roots as faft as they grated them, and falling into
a fmall hole, ran off upon the ground. After this operation
the roots are dried in order to be reduced to meal, and to make
the Caflavi. But this is not their only ufe. The Brazilians
make a drink of them. The procefe in making of which is
very dilgufting, as well as the liquor itfelf, to thofe who know
how it is made. The females are employed in this bufinefs,
efpecially the old women. Laet gives a particular defcription of
tlje whole. - -M^i'
The laws of every country form the maflHctS of its inhabit-
ants ; hence it is, the manners of different nations have fo little
rcfemblance to each other. The climate likewife contribates very
much to produce this effeft, it being evident that a law highly
falutary in Norway may be equally pernicious in Guinea. The
improvements introduced among thofe, which we call civilized
nations, have alfo given rife to many laws unknown among,
what we are pleafed to call, barbarous nations.
Among the Brazilians, the girls before marriage not only give
themfelves up freely, and without any fenfe of fliame, to unmar-
ried men, but even their parents offer them to the fiift comer,
and carefs their lovers exceedingly ; infomuch that perhaps there
is not one giil who is a virgin at the time of her marriage.
On the other hand, when they have once given their promil'e,
which is the only ceremony on that occafion, they are no longer
folicitel, neither do they liiten to any other addrefles.
Tiie only education they give their children is to make them
expert in hunting, fifliing, and war. They live peaceably not-
withftanding among themfelves, and vc;y Ridom have any
piivatc quarrels. If by chance any of them fall out and fight,
they let them go on till they are fatisfied ; but as tiie law of re-
Q^ taliation
i!||
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
taxation is ftriflly obftrvcd among them, the man, who har
wounded another, is wounded in the fame manner by his relap-
tions, or if he has killed him, is kiUed in his turn by them.
All this is done by conlent of the relations on both fides, and
without appeal. This law is probaUy the fouxce of that impla-
cable hatred they bear to their avowed enemies. If tliis rule was
introduced among us, we fliould icarcely fee fo many quarrels
ending in the effufion of human blood ; our only weapons then
would be our tongues and our pens.
It is an injuflice to the Brazilians to coniider them as the mod
cruel of all men againU every other nation : they are only fo to
their avowed enemies : and excepting fome few of certain nations
whofe ferocity approaches to that of wild beafts, perhaps from
the continued infults of their neighbours, the Brazilians are very
humane, particularly to ftrangers, whom they receive with great
kindnefs, and in the manner f^kted by Lcry s the particulars of
which are as follow, - - >
' If one has occafion to go oftener than once to the fame habi-
tation or village, one mufl take up' one's lodging with the
Moujiecaf, or head of the Family j becaufe the perfon to whom
one goes firft would be extremely offended at one's leaving him
him to go to another. One muff: always lodge with the fame
perfon.
As foon as the traveller appears at the door, the Mouflacat, or
whoever is mafter of the houfe, prefles him to fit down on a
hammock or bed of cotton. Hung in the air, on which they
leave him for fome time without faying a word. They take this
opportunity to afiemble the women, who come and fit on the
ground round the bed, with their hands over their eyes. They
melt with joy ; they weep, and in the midft of their tears addrefs
a thoufand flattering compliments to their gueff : " How good !
How valiant you are ! What ol)ligations we have to you ! What
trouble you have undergone incoming hither! How beautiful
you are ! How happy you have made us by coming hithci'j" and
ClIjCIS
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
97
'©♦licrs to the fame effecl. If the ftranger wifhes to imprefs on
them a good opinion of himfelf, he muft appear to be afFefted
in his turn. Lery affirms, that he has feen Frenchmen really
affected and crying, as he expreffes it, like calves. But he advifes
thofc, whofe hearts do not happen to be fufceptible of fuch ten-
der emotions (that is to fay, to the fliame of us, Europeans, who
pique ourfelves, but with fo little reafon, on having more hu-
manity than the Brazilians) to figh, or at leail pretend to figh.
Is not this reproaching us in few words, with having only the
outfide of politenefs and hofpitality, while the Brazilians are
really polite and hofpitable ? •■ ? ;
After the firft falutation, the Mouflacat, who has retired into
a corner on pretence of making an arrow, or fome other bufi-
nefs, as if he was not taking any notice of what pafled, comes
near the bed, aiks the gueft how he does, receives his anfwer,
and enquires the reafon of his coming. If the gueft underftands
the language, he muft anfwer all thcfe queftions. After this, if
the Mair (for that is the name they give to Europeans) came on
foot, they bring him water, and*the women wafli his feet and
legs. They then inquire if he is hungry or thirfty. If he an-
fwers, that he is both, they immediately fet upon the table as
much fifti, fowl, venifon, and other provifions as they have in
the houfe, with the liquors of the country.
Should the gueft choofe to pafs the night there, the Mouflacat
not only caufes a fine white inis (or hammock) to be prepared
for him ; but, notwithftanding the continual heat of the climate
at Brazil, makes a pretence of the dampnefs of the night to kindle
three or four fmall fires round the hammock, which are kept
np all the time the Mair is afleep with a fort of fmall fan, called
'Tatapecoutiy which refembles very much our fire-fcreens.
In the evening, fays Lery, who had been in this fituation
himfelf, they ||move their children out of the way j fo careful
are they to get rid of every thing that may interrupt the ftran-
ger's repofe. *^
0^2 As
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
"■'■ As foon as he wakes in the morning, the MoufTacat comes to
inquire if he has flept well, and how he finds his health ; and
though the ftranger by his aniwer appear ever fo well fatisficdi
he cries, " Go to fleep again, my child, you have occafion for
it: I am fure you were very much fatigued yefterday." It is cuf-
tomary with Europeans to make them fome prefents upon thefe
occafions, and no man ought to ftir abroad without -carrying
fomething for that purpofe about him. For this rcafon travel-
lers provide themfelves with fome trifling commodities, fuch as
knives, fciflars, tweezers (which laft are in great requcfl:, both
men and women being accuftomed to pull out the hair from all
parts of" their bodies, except their eyebrows) combs, little look-
ing-glafles, bracelets, glafs beads and buttons, and even lilh*
hooks. . -ivi ■-,.• :i , .i .
Some doubts perhaps may be entertained in refpe^ to the
condu6t of the Brazilians as reprefcnted in this account ; but
thefe will ceafe, when it is known, that thefe men, whom we
look upon as barbarians on account of their cruelty towards
their enemies, never eat any other men but fuch as are their de-
clared enemies: that they bear a ftrong affeiSion to their friends^
and allies; and that they would fuffer themfelves to be cut in
pieces, to defend thofe with whom they live in amity from the
fmalleft inconvenience.
It is not to ftrangers alone that the Brazilians fliew themfelves
tender and afFe6lionate. When they happen to be afflicted with
diforders, they treat each other with the mofl: humane, attention
land regard. If any one is wounded, his neighbour immediately
offers himfelf to fuck the wound, and performs every other of-
fice of kindnefs with the fame zeal.
Yet religion has no fliare in regulating the conduct of the
Brazilians. They have no notion of a Deity: they do not adore
any thing, and their language has not even any word to exprefs
the name or idea of a God. In their fabulous hiftoi ics, there is
nothing to be found that has any relation to tiicir origin or to
the
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
99
the creation of the world. They have only a kind of ftory,
that feems to refer to the general idea of a deluge, which de-
ftroyed the whole race of mankind except one brother and fifter,
who peopled the earth again. They unite fome idea of power
to thunder, which they call I'upan, for they are afraid of it, and
believe, that they derive from it the knowledge of agriculture.
They have not the moft dirtant conception that this life is to be
followed by another, and they have no terms to exprefs heaven
or hell. It feems, however, that they have a notion of I'omething
remaining of them after their death j for they have a tradition,
that feveral of their people have been changed into genii, and
daemons, and that they rejoice and dance continually in charming
fields planted with all forts of trees.
The Indians of Brazil are paflionately fond of dogs of the
European breed ; and they bring them up for fporting. Thofe
of the country, though they rel'emble ours, are never l)roke of
their favage and carnivorous appetite. A Portuguefe made us a
prefent of two, one grown up, the other fo young that he could
icarct'ly walk. We were obliged to get rid of them both in
tim^, for it was found that no corretlion could keep them from
the Iheep and fowls. But the Governor had given M. de Bou-
gainville a brace of pointers out of the fame bitch, about four
months old, and of the befl breed in Portugal. When we were
landed at the Malouines, and went out a fliooting, they pointed
naturally without any teaching. M. de Bougainville carried
them to France, and made a prefent of them to a nobleman at
court.
Ihe 15th we failed out of the ro.ul, and continued our route
the i6ih and 17th, wit'iout meeting any thing remarkable.
The 1 8th, in the morning, we faw a great number of birds,
which our fcamen called Dtuiins, and fome ilucbranta-huejjos or
Olpreys. One of the latter flying too near our veilel was fnor,
and taken up out of tlic fea.
It is an oj)inion which pre\'aiis in the South Sea, that the
Qutbj anta-huciibs never appear but a day or t>vQ before a ftorm
o
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
or very bad weather. But we faw many of them in fine weather,
when it was what the failors call a longjea, and no ftorm followed.
The fame thing is faid of the Halcyons or King-fifliers, or as they
are otherwife called Puants. Whether it is that they really have
a bad fmcll, or whether it is, that mariners have an averfion to
feeing them, as they look upon them to be birds of ill omen,
it is true we never faw any King-fifhers but we had hard wea-
ther afterwards.
The Quebranta-hueflbs are frequently feen to (loop and hover
on the furface of the water, fkimming the waves, and following
the direction of them, without appearing to move their wings,
which they conftantly keep open and fpread out. When they
do not float on the waves, they fly round the (hip at a finali
diftance. ; . . i . .^
The body of this bird is about the fize of a large capon, but its long
clofe feathers give it the appearance of being as big as a Turkey.
Its neck is (hort, and fomewhat bent : its head large, and its
beak very Angular, fuch as I have fketched it out in the
plate.
The beak is divided as it were into four or five pieces. The
tail of the bird is fliort, its back high, legs low, feet black and
webbed, with three claws before, and a fourth very fliort behind,-
each of which are furniflied with black talons, which are blunt,
and not very long.
There are feveral kinds of Quebranta-hueflbs. Some of
them have a whitifli plumage, fpotted with a dark brown, or
red i in others, the breafl", the under part of the wings, the
lower part of the neck, and the whole head, are all extremely
white ; but the back, the outfide of the wings, and the upper
part of the neck, are of a dark red, fpeckled with a few fpots
of a blueifli grey colour. The one we fliot was of this kind.
They may perhaps be all of one fpecies, and the differences may.
ferve only to diftinguifli the male from the female. Their
wings are very long. Seven feet two inches and a half was the
lene^th of our bird's wings, meafuring from the extreme points
1 of
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TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. loi
of' the feathers of one wing to thofc of the other. Thefe birdt
31*6 found at the diOance of more than 300 leagues from any
land, neither is it known from whence they come, or in what
j)laccs they build their ncfts.
On the aift in the morning, the colour of the fea appearing
different, we refolved to found, and found bottom at the depth
of fifteen fathom?. The end of the bank, which is at St. Mary's
Point, may pofTibly make this bo«om.
According to our obfervaiions, the currents from the line
tend to the South when the fun is in the Southern point.
On the 22d, about two oMock, we faw land pretty clearly.
We ftecred immediately towards it, in order to dilcover it
well; the tides carried us S. 8. E. from 14 to 15 minutes. This
circumf^ance muft be attended to, in making tlie entrance
of Rio de la Plata. The courfc fliould be to the North.
As we came near the land, we judged it to be the mod
Eaflein point of St. Mary's cij^e. Perceiving then fome lands
more to the South, we turned the head of the fhip South Weft
■^ W. : and at fix o'clock difcovered the ifland of Lotos : fo called
from its being inhabited only by fca wolves, which arc here
met with in great abundance. As we came nearer to it we
fleered South l- South Wefl, in order to keep a league and a
half out to lea, that we might avoid a ridge of rocks Eartvvard
of this illand. This ridge extends near a league out at lea. As
it- was dark, we did not perceive the mouth of the canal, which
forms the ifland and port of the Maldonnados ; fo that we ad-
vanced nearly two leagues too far up the Rio di' la PLita, or river
Plata, in which we cafl anchor at eight o'clock in the evening.
On the morning of the ayi, our yawl went on (liore with
Mefiis. dc Bougainville, dc Ncrvillc, de Belcourt, rHuillitr, and
Alexander Guyot, our fecond Captain, to acquaint the Com-
mander of the fort of the ifland of Maldonnado of our anchor-
age. They alked leave to fupply tLemfclves with fVt.lh water
and provifions, wliich tlic Cemnuinlant gave rliem in the
politetl
Its
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
politcft manner. He was even Co kind as to tell us, that we had
not anchored (o well as we might have done at the mouth of
the canal leading to the port : that the anchorage at the port
was by no means fafe, and that we fliould do very well to quit
it J which we accordingly refolved to do, as loon as the weather
ihould permit, and the Commandant Hiould fend us a coaling
pilot.
The whole coaft difcovers nothing to the eye but low banks
of fand, fonie few remote eminences only appearing, which
are called the mountains of Maldonnado, and are at the diiiance
of fome leagues from the coaft. There are no trees to be feen,
but a great quantity of cattle, very large oxen, and horfes. All
the trade indeed of the country of Plata confills in filver, and
the hides of oxen.
On coming from the Eaft, to enter into the Rio de la Plata,
the illand of Lobos is feen VV. S. W. of the compafs.
The weather had been calm, very fine, and very hot ever
fmce the morning. Many of the crew employed themfelves ia
angling ; and no fooner was the line thrown into the fea, than
it was brought up again with a fi(h. Sometimes there were as
many fifh caught as there were hooks to the line, Tiie fiOi
were only of four or five different kinds. Some of them were
what the Spaniards call Fiagrios, and our failors Machoirans,
The others were Carangues or Guarencas, dog and cat-fifli of dif-
ferent fizes, and fome Iharks. We caught one cat-fifh, one dog-
filli, and two young (harks.
TheMachoiian, or beard-fifli, has its belly flat, and feme beards,
as the little barbel ; the head large, the Ikin covered with fr.iall
brown and almoft imperceptible I'cales, nearly rcfcmbliug thoil; of
the tench ; at the root of the finsneaieft the head, there is a fmall
ferratcd bony proceG-, the teeth of which arc iiulined towards
the body. This procefs is as long as the fin, and has tliC fame
motions. When the fifh wants to defend himfclf again(t other
fiili, or againft the filherman, lie puflies out thele procefics, r.nd
thrutts
i
TO TH^ MALOUINE ISLANDS. 103
thrufls them into the bodies of other fifli, into the fiflierman's
hand, or, into any thing that is near him, even into wood if he
can, to which he fometimes fattens himfelf by the ftroke. His
punfture is venomous, fo that fifhermen take care to guard
againft it. I know not whether there are any larger than thole
we caught. The biggeft of thefe was one foot and a half long,
and four inches broad. It is a very well tafled fifli.
The Guarenca is an excellent flat fifli. We caught fuch a
quantity of a kind of barbel fifli, that after the whole crew had
been fupplied with it for this day and the next, the remainder
of it was falted and dried, in the fame manner as the dried cod
is prepared at Newfoundland. The largeft of thefe barbels,
was of the fame fize in every way as the beard-fifli, defcribed
above. The cat-fifli, and the dog-fifti, are kinds of ftiarks
or fea dogs -, they refemble them fo much in their figure that
they are not eafily diftinguiflied : they were about two feet and
a half long.
About three o'clock in the morning of the 24tb, there arofe a
violent South wind. At five o'clock the wind being fomewhat
abated, we put ouffelves in readinefs to fet fail for Monte-
video. The wind rifing again at (even o'clock, we cafl: our
beft bower, by ten fathoms, on a muddy bottom of fine fand,
and remained part of the day in this ft ate.
M. de Bougainville, trufl:ing to the mildnefs of the weather,
had been gone ever fince the morning, to the Fort Maldonnado,
with the lame perfons who had accompanied him the preceding
e moft elegantly contrived, the beft kept up;,
and the moft diveifified, could not poifibly exhibit any thing to*
be compared to what we now faw in tlic lieavens for the fpace
of an hour. We did not then fufpedt, that this prorpeft would
ibon give way to one of a much le^ pleafing kind y from which».
our captain, who was better acquainted with the danger and the
confequences, was all this time endeavouring to (hdter us, by
taking all the neceffary precautions againft a itorm.
We tliought tlie florm would pafs off along fide of us, as it
appeared to be going that wayj but in an inftant a moft
violent wind arofe, and the thunder and lightning came upon
us at the fame time. We pafied the whole night ftriving againft
the impetuofity of the wind, and the roarings of an extremely
boifterous and angry fea, which broke in upon us.
This wind is called in the country Pamperos^ bccaufe it comes
from the plains of Pampas, beyond Buenos Ayres. Thefe plains
extend as far as the Cordeleirias mountains, which divide them
from Chili. They are at leaft three hundred leagues in length,
without the intervention of any wood, or eminence, to check
the violence of this wind ; which fwells the river Plata, raifing
its waves as high as mountains, fo as often to deftroy the vefTels
in that river, breaking them upon the coaft oppofite the wind.
The anchorage where we were was extrenwly unfafe, from the
vicinity of the ifland of Maldonnado, and the circumjacent
eoafts, all bordered with rocks and fands. Thirty years ago, afi
Englifli veffel laden with platters, or pieces of eight, was loft in
this place. The inhabitants of the ifland, in the neighbourhood
of the fpot where the wreck happened, are ftill endeavouring
to this day, to recover part of tlie cargo. On the evening before
our arrival, they had taken up with the drag, two thoufand
four hundred of thefe piafters. ;.
The wind Pamperos is much more frequent in winter than
in fummer, and always blows ftrong, which makes the Rio de
la Plata a dangerous road. This river is fit only for the trade
of
R
• ^
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
»05
of piaders and oxen, the largeft of which are fold her« for five
pieces of eight, or five and twenty livres of French coin. In
general, they are fold for three piafters, or fifteen livres. It is
very difficult to get wood here ; not only becaufe it is very fcarce,
but alfo becaufe the little there is of it, is found a long fide the
rivers, the only places of fhelter for tigers, leopards, and other
wild beafts, which are here found in great number, much more
igerce and larger than thofe of Africa and the Eafl Indies. Figa
and peaches are to be found all the way from Maldonnade and
Montevideo to Buenos Ayres. .
The Pamperos blew with equal violence the whole night}
and the fea was terrible. Notwithftanding the continual rol>
ling and pitching of the (hip, I was fallen into a pretty found
fleep, when I was fuddenly awakened by a violent fhake the
vefTel received, which made it crack in all it$ parts, as if it
was breaking againft the rocks. It was then near five o'ck>ck-
in the morning. I jumped out of bed, opened my window,
and afked the helms-man if we had (Iruck againft any
rock. He anfwered, that we had not yet flruck, but that the
fhip dragge<* her anchors, and that we were in a fair way for it.
He told me that the cable of our befl bower had failed j and
that the other anchor was loofibned from the ground. This was
the reafon of the violent fhake we had felt } our only hope was
now in the flieet anchor, which we had jufl dropped.
I drcfTed myfclf, and went upon deck, and I perceived indeed
we had dragged fo much, that tive coafts towards which the
wind and tlK waves were driving us, did not feem to be more
than half a league diflrant. But our fiieet anchor luckily keeping
her hold, we continued in the fame manner, labouring. very
hard for our prefervation, till about fix in the evening, when
the wind and ftorm began to ceafp.
As they were working the fliip yefterday evening, a pully
broke. A failor received a flroke on the forehead frofm one of
the fplinters, and prefcntly after fainted away.' The furgeons
gave it as their opinion, that the flroke had only grazed the
R 2 part,
If
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part> from the fmall quantity of blood loft, and the little appa-
rent conti^fipn. The man was pretty quiet to-day, complaining
of nothing more th^n a great head-ach, which was looked upon
as the, effedt of the fliock. He was blooded twice and very
carefully attended, having even had a bed made for him in
the cabbin. -.-.ji vu ^
During the tempeft, the ki was agitated quite to its bottom :
two or three hours after the dorm began, the fea formed fuch
deep cavities, th^t one would have thought we were going to
touch the bottom } and the billows followed fo clofe that they
did not allow us time to breathe. I faw moie than once the
end of the main maft yard, which indeed was brought very low,
dip three feet or thereabouts into the wave, part of which often
bifoke, upon the deck. Our (ituation was more dangerous from
our :l^eing fo near the coaft. Our fea officers, who were all able
men, having had the command of (hips, and privateers, were fo
fenfible of the danger that threatened us, that mod of them were
confidering how they fhould fave themfelves from the fliipwreck.
The danger appeared even fo urgent to them, that the guns
were already difpofed fo as to ferve inAead of anchors, in cafe
the cables (hould happen to break.
. ;The night of the 26th was fine, and xhs wind having fhifted
tq the North, blowing a gentle gale, about four o'clock we
began to prepare j and we fet fail about feven.
On the 27th at fun rife, the land neareft to us bore N. N. E.
about four leagues didant : and the land moil to the South Weft,
bore N. W. five degrees North of us. We founded the whole
night from hour to hour, and even more frequently, and found
fometimes at twelve, fometimes at thirteen fathoms, a muddy
bottom. Thofc who fail along this road, will do well to found
as often as they can, efpecially if it is the firft time of their
going to Montevideo or Buenos Ayres. The liver Plata is ex-
tremely dangerous, from the number and extent of its fand
banks, which leave but a very narrow channel, for the palTagc
cf iliipSi and that very ferpentine. The bank called the Bank
<■ . of
It f
I. ^
!
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 107
of the EngU(h advances near five leagues from the coaft ; and
the idands we meet with, form flats, proje£ling conHderably.
All this coaft is flat, except .the part where the Maldonnado
mountains are,.vyhich are of a moderate. height« and at a.fmall^
diftance. i niodj itbrrs- i ni-v/; -.lo-Hf-'/'ifUijid Hyi'^H'^ VfC h'/M'^ s'i
,r On the 28th we tacked about towards th6 iflahd of Flora, till
we came within about a league and a half from it, and till we
were two leagues clear of the coafl;. One muft. take care not to
go too near either of thefe places, on account of the ridges of
rocks, which extend pretty near a league out at iea. At nine
o'clock we were about two leagues diftant from Montevideo,
Half an hour afterwards we difpatched M. Alexander Guy.pt in
our yawl, to give notice of our arrival to the Governor.
About half an hour after four, as we. were going to fail into
the bay, the .captain of a Spaniih vefTel, named Saint Barbe^
came on board of us with offers of fervice from the Governor,
and in order to pilot us. About five o'clock we caft anchor in
this road a little beyond the Spanifh veflel, in three fathoms
depth of water, on a muddy bottom -, after which we faluted the
citadel with twelve ihots, which were returned (hot for iliot.
. The firft days we lay af, anchor were taken up in fettling'
with the Governor of Montevideo, what we had to do during
our ftay. He feemed firrt to ftait feveral difficulties, not only
with regard to allowing us the liberty of fifhing along the coafl',
but alfo to the fuffering our longboat and yawl to come on Ihore.
He required that we fhould give him previous notice every time
wc wanted to land, that he might pofl guards at the place
where we iliould put to fhore, with orders to wait till our long-
boat or yawl went back, to prevent us from carrying on any kind
of trade whatever. ; .hjU^tqai;;. k^H la..; ^i \ J ., .: :a jlniin
. Not forefeeing any of .thefe difficulties, we had fent our /mail
boat a filling at the foot of the mount, the veiy next day, afiei?
we ha J caft anchor. The Governor who received intclliger :e
of this, fent two dragoons of the garrifon, to take the men into
cuftody, together with the boat and goods, in cafe they fliould
have
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE r
have brought any on ihore. MeflT. dc Bougainville, de Nerville,
Guyot, and myfclf, came into the palace, immediately after this
order had been given, which the Governor communicated to
M. de BougainviHe.. The Governor, ap})rehending certainly that
he could not exprefs bimfelf properly in French, fpoke in Spani(hy
and had a provincial, fettled in this «ity for nftocn years paft,
for his interpreter. This provincial explained the Governor's
intentions to us in fuch a manner, a& induced us to believe, that
he was not inclined to do us all tlie fervices he had offered, and
we had reafon to expe£^ from hinu This however, was far from
being his way of thinking $ of which we were thoroughly con-
vinced by the fequd of our conference.
The order given, which fcemed to agree whh the provincial's
interpretation, was far from being agreeable to M. de Bougain-
ville, who exprefled his refentment of it to the Governor, nearly
in tiie following terms : It is very farprizing,- Sir, and at the
fame time very mortifying for us, to meet with difficulties among
our friends the Spaniards, which we have not experienced
among the Portugucfe, with whor we have juft been at war.
I will ft fail immediately, and give notice of this to the King
my mafter. The Governor replied; that he did not intend to
difoblige us, but on the contrary, to do us all the fervice in.his
power ; that he was not the mailer : that the laws and orders of
his court were, not to allow any kind of trade to be carried on'
by fhips which were not SpaniAi, or privileged for that purpofe by
the court of Jr^painj and even to put a flop to any trade canied
on by the Spaniards themfelves for otlier nations j that a frigate
belonging to the Eaft India Company, which had anchored in
the fame port three years before, had made no fcruple of fub-
mitting to what he had juft propofcd. M. de Bougainville
anfwered, there is a wide difiercnce, between a trading frigate,
and a King's frigate of war. We have no trailing commodities
on board ) and are come here only with intent to take in fome
icfrcfliments, and to wait for the Sphinx, which we have parted
fiom, and which we Ivavq appointed to meet in the Rio de la
ria;a.
It »
TO THE MALOUINB ISLANDS. 109
Plata, As foon as you give me your word, replied the Governor,
that no goods fhall be difletnbarked ; you are welcome *<^ land or
lend on (hore as often as you pleafe. But the cuIVom eflablifhed
by the ltws» being to fend a foldier or guard wherever the boot
puts into (hone* I defire you would not take it ami(^ that I com- <
ply with it } it is for your quiet as well as mine f for I do not
chufc to lay myfelf open to any blame from my court. In every
other refpefV, you may depend on my doing every thing in my
power to oblige yoir: for I am prompted by my own inclination,
as well a9 by the orders I have received, «0 treat the French with
the fame ctvrlity as the Spaniards. Matters being thus foftened
on both fides, the dragoons were ordered to the boat» and went
accordingly. A.r>riii-,-v:Mi.5jj|£ii-;jaH'nm>-v/ k 51 ujjfn? .jj .injii ■ ..
The Governor afterwards dcfired M. de Bougainville to per-
mit him to take a copy of the orders he had received from the
king of France for the command of the two frigates, becaufe he
was obliged to fend it to the court of Spain, together with a
circumflantial account of our anchorage. M. de Bougainville
readily complied with his requeft : the red; of the converfation
was carried on amicably, and we parted good friends.
The Governor had more reafons than one for a■ "
9'
I
* Thefe officers left Montevideo the fame day that we did. The frigate upon
which they embarked was commanded by Don Pedro de Florcs, laden with 15
or 1,800,000 piafters, bulls hides, and other merchandize. She had fee fail from
Cadiz in 1755, bound to th.- coad cf Guinea, fitted out on the Englilh account, and
. S deltined
^i
111
112
Two d^ys after inU cohveriatipnj I went to vidt the chaplain
of £^ Spao'iUi £iig>te« wll^ich had been lying, at anchor in the port
of ^qenos Ayres foji;', (iveij^omhs ; I knew he was mqch inclined
to tlic Jefwitf. It.was.f^vjft faid. pretty openly that he had been
fent by .^he^.to li^qntevjaeoi iu or4er 19 J|uy up any trifles ifie
might ^nd on board ,our frigate. He mdeed bought up every
thing we would leU him.
After tl\e firft cQipplimepts had j)alted bet\ycen us, he asked
me why I had not been to fee the Jefuits, according to their in-
vitation, and my promile, .1 told Kim U was tVqe I hadpromlfcd,
but that I had been Informed that one of thofe fathers, had lately
fpoken very ill of the king of France, my mafteV, in a fermon
preached at fiueno^ Ayre$ ; and, if \his was a fadl, it was not
proper th?tl* who, was. a tJIfue Frenchman, fliquld pay a vifit to
the bretbren of {jo rafh a,|lr^acbei:. Vou certainly heard the fer-
mon, faid, I. — r-I did: and »t « certj^inthat the Father did not
cxprefs nimfelf in the moft cautjoqs manner,— What faid he then
particularly of the King of Friance? That he was a tyrant, a
perfecutor of the church, and many other things. But wefhould
furely, forgive them, fo^ this is nothing more than the efFeft of
their refentment having been e^^pclled the jcingdom of France.
We had fcarce finiflied this converfation, when two of the
three Jefuits of Montevideo came into the room v/here we were,
the Abbe, M. Mauclair our furgeon, and myfelf. After having
bowed to us, one of the Jefuits, addreffing himfelf to me, faid he
was very glad to fee me ; and that in confequence of what he had
heard from Jofeph (this was the name of the provincial before
mentioned) he and his brethren had expe£led me for two days.
He afterwards alked me why I had not kept my word ; 1 anfwered
that
li
dcftined to carry over negroes to Buenos Ayres ; but not meeting at Cape Verd with
the Englifli veflel from which (he was to have received them, Don Pedro de Flores
continued his courfe, and failed into the Rio de la Plata. Here he had remained
ever fince that time, in order to avoid running the ri(k of being taken prifoner by
the Englifh during the laft war, as he was laden for Spain. From the obfervations
he had coUedcd for making a chart of this river, joiaed to my own, the chart infert-
ed in this work has been traced.
•^
TO THE MALO.UINE ISJ.ANDS. ii
?
that I had juft been giving my reafon to the Abbe, vyho might
explain it to him. I am hot furprifed, ff id he, I know the Bene,
diflines do nof: think properly, and that they are not our friends.
I told him he was miflaken, and that if they did not think pro-
perly, they would be his friends. As he did not like my anfwer,
he made no reply } but (ook his leave of the company, and went
away with his companion.
Bctvveen four and five in the evening, vve fpied a fail. We
judged immediately by her courfe, that ihe was making for
Buenos Ayres. But as we expelled from day to day t|ie ar-
rival of the Sphinx floop, vvhich we had appointed to ri^eet i^
the Rio de la Plata, many of us imagined this was (he. As
(he advanced, and came more within our notice, we were fo
far confirmed in our opinion, as almoft to perfuade oucfelves
that we were aflured of it. Notwithftanding the uncertainty,
M. de Bougainville difpatched the tong boat with the lieutenants,
ponat and Le Roi, to pilot her. The flgnals were agreed upon,
powder and other necefTary articles were given to put them in
"execution, and they fet off about feven o'clock. The night grew
very dark, the winds contrary, and the fcja rather high, fo that
not having perceived theic- fignals, we grew very anxious abont
.them. The Sphinx had difcovered us by the fignals agreed upon,
and in order not to lofe fight of us, had ione nothing but ply
to windward, and make feveral tacks, which together with the
darknefs had prevented our long boat frqm boarding her : this
ihe did however at midnight. The Sphinx then anchored, and
fctting fail the next morning, being the firft of January, (he
came up, and cad her anchor near us about nine o'clock in the
morning. The joy we had at feeing her, after a feparation of
more than two months, may readily be conceived. M. de la
Gyraudais had been previoufly told of the defeft in the maps,
with rel'peft to the bearing of the coaft of Brazil ; but though
we had ourfclve^ been upon our guard, vve were very near run-
ning aground upon the bank which is not marked in the French
charts. This bank lay in his courfe as it had done in ours}
:* S 2 nor
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nor are the Abrolhos made to extend fo far upon the charts
as they really do: all thefe circumllances contributed to make
"us uneafy, on account o( her delay, cfpecially after the ftay wc
had made at the ifland of St. Catherine. ,,. , . ,
Aj foon as the Sphinx had cad her anchor, M. de la Gyrau-
ilais came to us in our long boat, and told us he had been obliged
to put in atTogny on thecoaft of Eiazil, becaufe noiwithftand-
•■ ing they had been apprifcd of the errors in the charts, yet they
had fallen upon the Abrolhos at a time when they thought
•« themfelves at leaft thirty leagues diftant from them. They found
themfelves Auck upon them in the middle of the night } it hap-
pened luckily that the weather was calm, and that the rock up-
on which they ftruck was of rotten ftoiic.
The Sphinx being faft upon this rock, in order to avoid the-
•dreadful confequences of a wreck, they quickly hoided out the
fifliing boat they had, put the long boat and the yawl to fea ; .
and having carefully examined the fliip, they recovered a littre,
from their apprehenfions, when they found Hie liad received no
•damage.
The next trouble they had was to difengage the Sphinx fiom
the rock: as foon as it was day light, they found themfelves
furrounded with rocks of the fame kind -, and at the diftance of
half a quarter of a league, a vefTel lying on her fide, without
mafts. M. dc la Gyraudais imagining they were then upon
^ the Abrolhos, and that land could not be far off, fent the
boat towards tlie Ihore for afliftance. They met with feveral
"canocs of fifliciinen, negroes and Indians. They fpokc to them
in the Portuguefe language, and fix of them agreed to go on
hoard tlie Sphinx," where they were well feaftcd. They promifed
to give them all the help in their power. Two of them were
kept on board, and the other four difpatched in the boat, to
bring up their comrades from the coaft. They came back the
next day attended by a great number of canoes. With their
airiAance, the Sphinx was at laft difengaged from the rock, after
iiavlng icfted upon it for three days. M. de la Gyraudais came
TO THE MALdUINE ISLANDS. 115
ofFwith the lofs of the fiihing boat only. The negroes piloted
him as far as Togny, where the inhabitants treated him and his
crew, for fix days, with the greateft humanity, and as well as if
thfiy had themfelves been of this country : although they are moft
of them negroes or Brazilians.
After this interview, we went to Montevideo to pay our com-
pliments to the Governor upon the new year, not knowing th^t
it was cuftomary in this country to defer this ceremony to the
fixlh day of the nionih, the Epiphany. The Governor was hold-
ing a council for the nomination of officers of juflice. Being in-
formed that, after the finifhing of this bufinef?, he was to go with
all the retinue to the parifh church, which they call the cathe-
dral, we went to the fpot, and waited for him upon our legs a
whole hour, under the Ihadc of a-hoirfe, converfing with fonie
officers of the gacrifon. At half an hour after twelve, he made
his appearance in the midft of the new officers of juftice, who
liad each of them large white "wands in their hands, which they
made ufe of, as walking flicks. He crofFed the fquar.% which is
very large, in the middle of thcfe officers, all ranged in one line,
having their large black cloaks on, and their fmall (Hcks ; as the
Oviodore of the ifland of St. Catherine. We followed them into
church. Mafs was performed by the prieft^ whom they called
le Signor Vicari ; when this %vas over, we paid our compliments
to the Governor, wlo invited us to dinner. As we were already
engaged to dine with him the next day by appointment, M. de
Bougainville thought proper to decline the acceptance of this kind
invitation, and went on board with M. de Nerville. • •" >
' I ftaycd behind in expcclation of dining with the vicar; M.
Dliclos our captain having told me the evening before* that I
fliould do this gentleman a great pleafurc, and that they had
talked about it. After having faluted the governor, I went up
to the vicar in the vcfti y, but did not fj^eak a word to him about
^dinner. We came out of church with the two Spanifh officers,
•who were to embark on board the St. Barbej we went along
«itii the vicar a little way witiiout reccivi-n^ any invitation to
ilinncX'
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JOURNAL ^F MY VOYAGE
dinner j ^pd I took care not to invite myfelf. When we had left
him, the captain afked me where I (hould dine. \ anfwered
^hat I did not know } that I had expelled to dine with the
vicar ; but as he had not mentioned any thing about it, I in-
tended to fcek my fortune fomewhere elfe. He immediately
faid, that I fhould go with the colonel to the Governor's. I
ilarted many objedions to this, not thinking myfelf fufiiciently
known to go in this manner ; tlie colonel infilled, and taking me
by the hand, told me the Governor would be pleafed with him
for bringing me ; and that he certainly would t^ke it amifs if he
ihould know that I had refufed. I confented therefore, ^nd was
received by the Governor and his lady, with all poflible marks'
of politeneis and favour. He fpeaks French well enough to be
underftood ; his lady underflands it without bein^ able, or rather
without vertturing to (peak it. Her hufband and the ■ colonel
were her interpreters. She was a native of Bifcay, tall, well
made, of a brown complexion, but her .features were rather too
mafculine. She is a woman of great wit and vivacity, and abput
thirty-four or thirty-five years of age.
At eleven o'clock on Monday morning the fecond of January,
M. de Bougainville, Meflrs. de Nerville, de Belcourt, 1' Huillier,
the two Pu Clos brothers, our firft and fecond captain, Donat
cur firft lieutenant, de St. Simon a Canadian, lieutsnant of in-
fantry, de la Gyraudais, captain of the Sphinx, and myfelf,
all went to the Governor's, where we had as elegant a dinner as
the country v/ould afFord i but the dilhes were drell according to
the cuflom of the place : that is to fay, mofl of them with the fat
of oxen clarified which they ufc inftead of butter and oil j and
feafoned with fuch a quantity of pimento and caithamum that
the victuals were quite covered with them. Care had been taken
however not to put thefe fpices upon all the dilhes, and many
of us eat of none but thefe laft. The only wines offered us were
Spaniftj, and wines from tlie country of Chili ; the plates and
diflies were filver, and fome of them china. The table was co-
vered with a very fliort cloth, and the napkins were rather lefs
1 than
TO tHE MALOUINB ISLANDS, ii;
tto handkerchiiefs of a riioderate fize, naturally fringed, or, to
fpcak more propetly, Unravelled at both ends. The diflies were
fdved up obe iftet ahotheir. When drink was called for, it was
neceffary Vo (ky, 'Whether one chofe wine or Vvattfr, or in mixture
of both } for the Spaniards generally drink nothing but water
at their meals : at the end of which it is cuftbiiiary to bring a
large glafs of wine to every body in company, even without its
being afked. When wine and Water was Called for, they were
brought oiie after another, and we were obliged to drink them
feparately. The wine of Chili is of the colour of phyfic, com-
pounded of rhubarb and fenna, and very much of the fame tafte.
It takes this tafte perhaps from the foil, perhaps from the goat
flcins lined with pitch, in which it is conveyed. There is fcarce
any other "wine drunk in f'araguay. Onefoon accuftoms one's
felf to this tafte; and after having drunk it for a few days,
one finds it good. It is very warm upon thcftomach. But, whe-
ther from tafte or fancy, the Spaniards preferred the wine we
had brought with us from France. The defert was entirely
compofed of fweet-meats. The bread though made with excel-
lent flour, was not good, bccaufe it was not well leavened nor
properly kneaded; neither do they know how to bake it.
In the evening M. de Belcourt, who had taken a lodging in
the town, met with a ftranger in company, perhaps in difguife,
who fpoke' a gafcoon French. Pron>pted in all probability by the
Jefuits, who had already taken care to acquaint thernfelves by
the people belonging to our frigates, of M. de Belcourt's military
iieputation ; this man propofed to him to enter into the fervice
at Paraguay, in order to form the troops. He made him pro-
rnifes from the Jefuits, of the higheft emoluments to induce him
to accept of the propofal. M. de Belcourt pretended to liften
to him, but without entering into any engagements ; and the
very next day acquainted M. de Bougainville with this circum-
ftancc. This gentleman anfwered, that fome political advantage
might poffibly be made of this, and that if he chofe to facrifice
himfelf for the good of his countiy, it might then be proper to
give
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give an ear to thefe propofals. M. de Belcourt anfwered, that
in cafe he fhould think of engaging in this buflnefs, it would be
neceflary that M. de Bougainville ihould give him a note, certi-
fying that he went with his confent* and, fof the prefumptive
good of the ftate. . ^ ;• '• :^,iii r ? ' ; %
The next day the ftrangcr renewed his folicitations to M. de
Belcourt with greater earneftnefs, defuing him to take his refo-
lution fpeedily ; that he need not trouble himfelf about his
cloaths or any thing elfe ; that care (hould be taken to fupply
him with every thing he might want; and that, in order to
prevent the Spanilh government from knowing any thing of the
matter, he fliould be conduced, by ways unknown to the Spa-
4iiards, to the place of his dedination. M. de Belcourt inquired
which was the place, and what were the advantages propofed ;
but the firanger not giving any fatisfaftory anfwer, and having
talked to him in a flighting manner of the Jefuits, on purpofe
to conceal his defigns more effectually, M. de Belcourt declared
at once, that he would not comply with his folicitations. But
as he was under fome apprehenfions how he fhould get awav \iC
kept himfelf on his guard. About the dufk of the fame ev i; i;,
he found himfelf (o ciofely prefled by three men, that he thought
himfelf obliged to draw his fword, and carry it out of the fcab-
bard, to make his way, in cafe they fhould have furrounded
him i which, however, they did not attempt. I had ail thefe
« circuniftances from his own mouth, and it is with his confent I
make them public.
Towards eight o'clock in the evening, M. Mauclair, firfl fur-
geon of our frigate, came and told me, that after having had a
confultation with M. Bifle the fecond furgeon, and M. Front-
goulle furgeon of the Sphinx, upon the prcfent ftate of the failor
who had been wounded in turning the cap-ftern during the late
ftorm, they had agreed that he was growing much worfe, and
that he himfelf dcfired to be confelfcd. I went down imme-
jiiately, and finding him indeed very ill, received his confcfTlon.
He
m
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 119
He loft his fenfes an hour after; about ten o'clock I admihiftered
the extreme un£tion, and at eleven he died.
On Tuefday morning the 3d inftant, having previoufly ap-
prized the vicar, we fent away the corpfe in our yawl. It was
depofited with the guard of the port, till the vicar fhould come
to meet it. He came an hour afterwards, with his fexton. On
his arrival, I made him a compliment in Latin, to which he
gave no other anfwer, but a very low bow. He had a Roman
furplice on, and a gown j his fexton, a lay-man, had a black pet-
ticoat on by way of caflbck, and a very dirty furplice. Meff.
Duclos, Guyot, his brother Alexander, his two fons, fix failors,
and myfelf attended the proceflion. At each turning the vicar
chanted a refponfe, and a prayer, and fang alfo the mafs for the
dead. He did the failor all the honours he could have done to
the captain himfelf, and Had him buried in the church. The
fervice being over, he invited us to dinner, and could not be
prevailed upon to accept of any fee.
After dinner, I took a walk towards the extremity of the
creek which forms the port, where our people were getting
water. I went all over the coaft and the adjacent foil, in ex-
peftation of finding fome curious plants or (hells ; but my fearch
was fruitlefs. I met with one fingle plant only in a ftate of per-
fection i the ftem, which is eight or ten inches high, and the
leaves were covered over with a fhort white down, fo clofe and
fo thick, that it concealed the green part from the fight. I am
unacquainted with the name and properties of this plant.
At the diftance of two ftiots or thereabouts from the creek or
bay, there are two fountains. The people of the country wafli
their linen in that which is neareft the river. It is forbidden to
wafti in the other j becaufe that is the one from whence' they
draw the water ufed for drink in the town, which is at the
diftance of half a league from it. This fountain is bordered
with a little wall of ftone, and is very b"dly kept up, though at
the king's expence j fo lazy are the inhabitants, and fo carelefs
even of what concerns them nearly.
T As
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As I was pafling by this fountain, I faw thr€e or* four Mulatoes,
who had brought there Ibme ftones upon a cart, drawn bv four
large oxen ; and three others, who were filling a ~^{k with . 'it^i,
*- ^rder to carry it into thv town. An Indian or Mulator. wo-
man, with a negro woman coming to the fame place to draw
water alfo, one of the Mulatoes, who looked very much like an
Indian born of Spanifh parents, took the negro woman by the
hand, and they both of them danced together upwards of a
quarter of an hour, the dance called Calcnda. Travellers who
fpeak much of this dance in their accounts, do not exaggerate,
when they defcribe it as the moil lafcivious of all dances, at leaft
judging of it by our manners.
It is thought, that this dance has been brought into America,
by the negroes of the kingdom of Arda, upon the coaft of
Guinea. The Spaniards dance it as well as the natives, through-
out all their trcfcbliflim.cnts in America, without making the leaft
fcruple about it j although the dance is fo very indecent as to
aftonifli people who are not ufed to fee it. It is fo univerfally,
and fo much liked, that even children, as foon as they are able
to ftand, imitate in this particular perfons more advanced
in hfe.
It is danced to inftrumental as well as vocal mufic, by two or
by feveral perfons together. They are all difpofed in two rows,
one before the other, the men oppofite to the women. Thofe
who grow tired, as well as the fpeclators, form a circle round
the dancers, and the mufic. Some one of the dancers fings a
fong, the chorus of which is repeated by the fpedlators, with
clapping of hands. All the dancers keep their arms half raifed
up, jump, turn round, make contorfions with their backfides,
advance within two feet or thereabouts of one another, then fall
back in time, till the found of the mufic or tone of the voice
brings them together again. Then they ftrike their bellies one
againft another'two or three times following, and retreat after-
v/ards, whirling about, to begin the fame motion over again,
with jells, which are extremely lafcivious, indicated by the foiiiid
7 of
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 121
of the inftrument or voice. Sometimes they mix their arms,
turning round two or three times, and continuing to ftrike them-
felves upon the belly, and to kifV <. other, without being in
the leaft out of time.
' One may readily judge, how furprifing fuch a dance muft ap-
pear to French manners, and how much our modefty muft be
offended Ly it. Neverthelefs we are aflured from the accounts
of travellers, that it is fo very agreeable even to the Spaniards of
America, and is become fo much an eftabliOicd cuftom among
them, that it is even introduced among their a6ls of devotion :
that they dance it in church, and in their proceflions : that even
the nuns themfelves, fcarce ever fail to dance it on Chriftmas-
eve, upon a ftage raifed up in their choir oppofite the grate,
which is left open, that the people may partake of the fight •,
but they do not admit men to dance with them.
On Wednefday the fourth of January, while Meff. de Bou-
gainville and de Nerville were gone to the Governor, to invite
him to dine on board our frigate for the Sunday following^ I
went to fee an officer whofe name was Belia, who had been
brought up in France, in our royal college of Pontlevoy near Elois.
He had promifed me fome curious and medicinal plants of the
country, and fome pieces of natural hiftory. With refpedl to
the laft article he had nothing worthy of attention ; but he
fliewcd me the plants, which I ihall now defcribe : his brother-
in-law and himfelf acquainted me with their names, properties,
and ufes.
One called Meona, is very much like the wild thyme, but the
leaf is round, and the green not fo dark -, the ftem red, creeping,
taking root at each joint, affording a white milky juice, like the
fpurge. The feed grows in a fpiral, briftly pod j this pod con-
tains only a yellowifh feed in form almofl like a kidney. It
throws off from its root feveral woody ftalks, which fpread
themfelves circularly on the ground, as thofe of the biftort.
This plant taken in infufion, like tea, is faid to cure a ftoppage
of urine as by miracle.
T 2 JibrcnOt
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Ebreno, or Mio-mio, is an nlmoft repent plant, not lifing'
more than half a foot from the ground. The leaf is fmaller
than fennc; it has a very fmall herbaceous flower, growing ia
chifters, and pretty nearly umbellated : the root is reddifh out-
wardly, and as well as the plant has the tafte of the parfnip. It
is taken in infufion againf^ fluxions and colds. It feems to me
to be a fpccies of the Mettm, or fpignel.
The MatJ has a round ftrait branched ftem, growing about a
foot and a half high, and covered with a grey down a little in-
clining to red. The leaves arc an inch and a quarter in length,
only three or four lines in breadth, of a whitifti green colour,
and ciowny on the flem. The flowers flioot out one by one
along the branches, and are compofed of a fingle yellow leaf, flit
into four, and almofl without fmell. They are fucceeded by a
hijfk or pod, of the thicknefs of a quill, an inch in lengthy
which opens itfelf into four parts when dried, and lets fall fome
exceedingly fmall feeds pointed at each end, of a grey brown
colour. It is faid to be of admirable efficacy when applied to
wounds, either recent or of long (landing. M. Simoneti told
me, that, after having been fix months under the care of the
phyficidns and furgeons of the array, for a wound he had re-
ceived in the fide near the kidneys, and which had degenerated
into an ulcer, he had cured himfelf in a fhort time merely by
the outward application of the leaves of this plant.
The Cachen-lagum or the Canchalagua, which is alfo called at
Chili, Cachinlagua, is in every refpeft like the lefTer Centaury of
Europe. It is the Centaury of Chili, but does not grow quite (o
high as ours. A cold infufion is made of it, by throwing fix or
fcven of the plants whole and dry into a glafs of water for the
fpace of the whole night, or from morning to evening. This in-
fufion is then ufed as a gargte, and afterwards fwallowed, by which
method a fore throat is foon cured. Some frclh water is then
poured upon the refiduum, which is futfered to (land as long as
the firft ; after which tlie gargling and deglutition is repeated, ,
This is done alio a third time. M. de Bougainville, and M. du
Clos
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 123
Clos our captain, had experienced the efficacy of it more than
once. When the infufion is taken warm in the manner of tea,
it heats very much but purifies the blood. This plant is very
famous in Chili, from whence it is brought. I believe it to be a
better febrifugfe than the Centaury of Europe. Might not the
latter be .ed with equal advantage in fore throats ?
Mechoacan, is a name the Spaniards pf Montevideo give to a
plant bearing no refemblance to that which is fold in our (hops
under the fame name. That of Montevideo, which is very
common there, as well as in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres>,
is a fmall creeping plant, the root of which runs under ground
like the liquorice. It is whitifh, and flender as a writing pen >,
ibme fliort branches fhoot out from this root, which creep upon,
tlie ground, are covered with a very few fmall leaves, and thefe
only at the extremity, almoft refembling thofe of the lefler Tithy-
malus, known in feveral provinces of France by the name of
Reveil-matin. M. Bella told me, that the Englifli who trade at:
the colony of St. Sacrament, always carry away feveral of thefe
roots. It has a purgative quality like the Mechoacan of our
fliops. When it purges too violently, its effect is foon ilopped,
only by fwallowing a large fpoonful of brandy.
Another plant which they hold in great efleem i? '^■'^Guay^
curu } it bears a leaf of a beautiful green colour, rather thick, ,
and fhooting forth in great abundance from the root, which is
of a red brown colour, externally fhining, and reddifli within,
as the ftrawberry plant. From the middle of the root, the fteni-
grows out to the height of half a foot, of the thicknefs of a
common quill, folic!, without leaves, of a greyifli coloured green,,
fpreading out at the upper part into a dozen fmall branches,,
bearing at their extremity very fmall herbaceous flowers, without
faiell, and forming altogether a kind of umbrella.
This plant, efpecially the root, is one of the mod powerful '■
ailringents in botany ; and experience has proved, that it never
fails in drying up and curing ulcers fpeedily ; and even, as the
vicar told us, in curing the fcrophula, and flopping a dy Tenter y.
H«.
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
jf
lie made us a prcfcnt of a dozen of the plants which he had
icnt for on purpofc, at the diltancc of a few leagues, from a
country j^lace belonging to him.
The Paxco is a plant, which throws cut from its root fevcral
creeping branches : thefe are afterwards fubdivided into many
others. The leaves are but three hnes in length, and two in
breadth, Icrrated, thick, and fixed to the branches without any
foot-rtalk. The flower. is fo fmall that it is confounded with tlic
feed, which fucceeds it, and with which the brandies are ahnoft
entirely covered. At fii ft fight, it might be taken for the Rup-
iure-worf, or Htrnian'a, if the branches were fliorter. The
whole plant is of a pale green colour, fometimcs reddifli, as well
as the ftcm, when it approaches to maturity. It fmclls like a
lemon jull beginning to fpoil. It is an excellent remedy for
dilbrders of the ftomach, and indigeftion. Its decofbion is fudo-
rifjc, and its virtue's are much extolled in the pleuriiy. The
method of taking it, is, by chewing one of the green ftems about
the fize of one's little finger, and fwallowing afterwards the
faliva together with the chewed plant. When taken in this man-
ner it is a mild purgative. When there is none of the green
plant to be had, it is taken in infufion like tea.
M. Delia (poke highly of the anti-venereal virtues of the Co/a-
guala, which fome call Calagucla. It grows in barren and fandy
Ibils, to the height of kven or eight inches. Its item confifts of
icvcral fmall branches, which Ihoot up through the fand or
gravel. They are but two or three lines in thicknefs, full of
joints placed at fmall diftances from each other, and covered with
a pellicle which falls off of itfelf when it is dry. The leaves
are very fmall, few in number, and arife immediately from
the ftem.
The colaguala is looked upon as an admirable fpecific for
dilTipating impoftumatlons in a fliort time. Three or four dofes,
that is to fay, three or four pieces of it in fimple decodion, or
infufed in wine, and taken in the courfe of the day, are fuflicient
to eifect this purpofe. Being a very hot plant, it would become
injurious
<'«•;■■'
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TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 125
injurious if taken in too large a quantity. The root, which
is the only part of *he plant in ufc, is of a reddifh brown colour
outwardly, and refembles much the Guaycuru root. When cut
horizontally, it has a brown fpot in the center, and a vvhitifli
circle in the middle of its fubftance. A Francifcan named fa-
ther Rock, famous for his knowledge in phyfic, told me, that
he prcfcribed the Colaguala in the epilepfy, as well as in ther
venereal dii'eafe; that when it did not fucceed perfe6ll> in the
cure of tlie epilepfy, he had affifted it with the following pre—
fcription, which had never failed of fuccefs. He makes the
patient drink, in the courfc of the day, a quart of water, in which.
a young virgin arrived at the age of puberty, or a found healthy
woman, has well waflied the parts of generation on getting out
of bed ; with particular directions that two glafles of this water
lliould be taken fafting, one half an hour after the otiier. This
remedy is continued for eight or nine days confecutively, at the
decline of the moon j and is repeated for feveral months, efpe-
cially in the fpring. The method of ufing the Ca/agua/a, m
venereal diforders, is by infufion in wine, or in boiling water.
The fame Francifcan being with us at the Governor's coun-
try houfe, (hewed me another plant which he called Carqueja^
and which he told us was admirable, in infufion like tea, for
diflblving coagulated blood in the body, for purifying it, and
removing obftrudions. But it muft be ufed very fparingly, as
it agitates the Mood violently, efpecially the root of it.
The Carqueja grows like a fmall fhrub, to the height of one
foot, and its head is naturally rounded. It has no leaves diftinft
from the ftem, which refembles much that of the Genifta or
broom, with which I fancy it may be clafled. This ftem divides
itfeif into many branches to form the head. Thefe branches are
very flexible and thin.
The Tgiteril/a, the Zarca, and the Charrua, are plants greatly
valued in this country j as well as the Birabida^ or Viravicia, which
is reckoned refrelhing and cooling in the highell degree. A
French furgeon prefcribed an infufion of the Birabida with good
fucctTs
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
I
fuccels in a tertian. Frczier reckons ic among the cvcr-grecns.
May it not probably be the fame as I mentioned before under
the name of Doradilla ?
But the plant they make the moft ufe of is the Sifrun, It
is properly a kind of thiflle, known under the name of Car-
thamum. The defcription of it is found in every botanical trea-
tife. Its flower is called the baflard faffron. It has the colour
and form of the true fafFronj but has not either its tafte or
faiell. At Montevideo and at Brazil they fow the Sifran plenti-
fully in their gardens ; becaufe they ufe the flower of it to cover
ail their viiitiials, and even the foup. Parrots and Paroquetes
are very fond of the feed, which is white, fmooth, and made
like that of the Corona Solis, or Sun-flower, but much
iliortcr.
M. de Bougainville having told me, before he went to invite
the Governor, that we Ihould fet out early to go on board again,
I went to the yawl at half an hour paft four. There I found
M. de la Gyraudais, and the furgeon of the Sphinx. After
having converfed fome time about the plants I had been collect-
ing, finding that M. de Bougainville did not return, M. de la
Gyraudais propofed taking a walk about a mile ofl; behind the
citadel, telling us, that the plant Mate had been ihewn him ;
and that there was a great quantity of it near a fountain.
M. Frontgoufle, who had alfo heard of its properties, came
with us in order to gather fome. We colle6led likewife fome of
Kji the feed, which I gave, as I did all the feeds I coUedtsd in
the courfe of my voyage, to M. de Juflleu, to fow them in the
Kinr, s Garden at Paris. While we were fupplying ourfelves with
this plant, we heard a plaintive found iflijuig from between a
laige heap of (tones and rocks, which cover and furround the
fountain: we were not more than feven or eight toifes dirtant
from the found. We thought at firft it proceeded from a cat
confined among thefe rtoncs, whicii might have efcaped from a
iioufe about half a mile diftant. As we came nearer the foun-
lain, the ci'j feemed like that of a child. We were advancing
towards
i
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.'" 127
towards It, when M. Frontgoufle defired us not to proceed, fay-
ing, it was not the cry of a child, but that of an alligator. He
told us, he remembered to have heard them more than once in
our iflands, and that had we proceeded it would have been to
our coft. We found indeed that there were alligators in this
country ; M. de St. Simon having already told us, he had fecn
one of them on the bank of a fmall river, running behind the
mountain, feparated from the town only by the bay in which
the port is fituated. Not daring therefore to pu(h our curiofity
any farther, we contented ourfelves with gathering a few more
plants, and went back towards the town, in order to go on board
again. As we were walking along, we met with feveral Cur-
lews, by thirty in a body. They came within piftol (hot of us,
but we had only flicks in our hands.
About feven o'clock we reached the yawl, where we met with
MelT. de Bougainville, de Nerville, de St. Simon, and Martin,
Lieutenant of the Sphinx. It was very fine weather when we
left the Port j and we had already made three parts of our way,
when a South Eaft wind arofe fo brilkly as to oblige us to ply our
oars, in order to get on board, before it fliould become more
violent. It blew however harder and harder. Each cloud as it
rofe on the horizon brought a frefli fquall, more violent than
the preceding. The waters being confiderably fwelled by thcfe
repeated attacks, formed waves which grew bigger and bigger,
and retarded our progrefs. Although the fea and the wind were
againil us, we were now within gun fliot of the Sphinx, which
was the neareft vellel, and on board of which we thought of
fetiing M. de la Gyraudais, with the other officers belonging to
her. The fine clear Iky had difappeared. Th clouds made the
night ftill more dark, fo that we could but juft dilcern the figure
01 a boat, bearing towards us. We then imagined that M. Du-
dos, furpe61ing our diftrefs, had fcnt out the longboat to our
adiftance. We haied her, but received no anfwer. The fea
however drove her towards us with fo much fvviftnefs, that we
fooa difcovered her to be our fmall boat, floating at the mercy
U of
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
of the waves, witli no pcrfon in her. Wc fliiftcd our courfe to
try to favc her j wc cnmc up with hsr, put two men into her
with oai9, ami a grappling, and tlien endeavoured to get on our
way. It might tli>:n be half an hour after eight. We drove in
vain againll the tide, the violence of the waves and the wind.
While we were putting the men and the oars into the fmall boar,
we had been driven to leeward more than three quarters of a
league, on the fide of the French iflSnd, fituated near the coafl,
almoft oppofite the citadel. The darknefs prevented us from
feeing land, and indeed we could hardly difcern the lights they
had put out on board our two frigates.
Perceiving therefore, that we got farther and farther from the
fliips inftead of coming nearer them, we determined to make for
land, and fleered to the point where we thought the city was»
for its fituation as pointed out to us only by two lights, at a
great diftancc from each other. The waves which broke againfl:
our boat, had already thrown in a great deal of water, which
wc emptied with our hats j wc were wet to the flcin, and the
boat-men were much fatigued. M. de la Gyraudais, after having
rowed for an hour, had now taken the helm j we knew not
where we were, and had no brandy to keep up our flrength and
fpirits. In this, diftrcfs we thoug;ht tiiere was no better expe-
dient for us, than to let fall our giappling, to give the men time
to reft themfelves. I then put on a great coat I found near me,
and wc diftributed the quarter- cloths among the men, to cover
themfelves with j not indeed to keep them from the waves, for
we could not be more wet than we were, but to flielter them
from the wind, which made us fo very cold, that we were ob-
obliged to fqueeze as clofe as poflible to each other, in order to
keep ourfelves warm. We were almoft refolved to remain in
this condition all night, when M. de la Gyraudais thouglit lie
perceived, that we were drr/iiging our grappling. He ordered
the ftcerfman to lay his hand on the hawfer, that he might judge
by the motion, whether our grappling was really aweigh or
not. Th.c ftcerfman thought at tirft, that the motion he felt
wa»
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 129
was can fed by the fliocks the boat received from the waves j but
he icon found out his miftakc, and gave us notice of it. He
was ordered to found with the boat-hook, which he did, and
found only three feet water, with a bottom of rocks, which
are on the borders of tlic whole coa/l, and advance pretty for-
ward in the river. The oars were placed in the row-locks, the
grappling vvas drawn up, and we rowed for a full quarter of an
hour, fou'iding all the while, and finding the fame bottom. At
laft wc came to a muddy bottom, with feven or eight feet
water. Wc were going to cafl: our grappling here, when the
men forefceing they fliould get no fupper in this place, faid, that
as we were now in the way, we mult continue, and go and lay
on fliore. We were extremely well fatisfied with their rcfo-
lution, and fleered to Awards a light, which we imagined to be
that of the guard place i at the only port where it is poflible to land.
Soon after, as we were al' looking about us, endeavouring t3
find our fituation, we percc red a fchooncr, which we knew to
be at anchor very near the j^oit. The fight of this velFel revived
our Spirits, and we fxcrted ourfelve;; fo much, that in little more
than half an ho ir \'e gained the port. The officer of the
guard came out to reconnoitre us. Another officer was fent
with the fteerfman to give the Governor notice of our being
returned to the city, becaufc wc had not been able to reach our
vcifel. He fent us compliments of condolance, and at the fame
time invited us to fupper, and defired us to take up our night's
lodging at his hcufe. • ' '
We were apprehenfive of being troublcfome to him, not only
on account of the late hour, for it was midnight, but alfo
becaufe we were too numerous a company: befides, as we- were
very . ..':, and in a ftrange pickle, wc thought it better to go in
fearcii i a Frenchmnn named Lacombc, of St. Flour in Au-
vergne, fettled at Buenos Ayres, and having a houfe alfo ft
Montevideo: he was already known to many of our officers,
from whom he had made fevcral purchafes. A foldier of the
guard, who fpoke French, offered to conduct us. Inftead of
U 2 leadinn
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
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leading us to the place where M. Lacombe lived, he brought ui
to the houfe of a friend of his, where the foldier had feen him
feveral times. We knocked near a quarter of an hour before we
could get any anfwer. At length they anfwered, the door was
opened, and we found M. de Belcourt in bed in this houfe, as it
was the place where he lodged. Thinking that we were playing
him a trick, he did nothing but laugh at us. As we were nut
much in a humour for laughing, we enquired which was M.
Lacombe's houfe, and were informed. We were making the
beft of our way to it when we met tha.
132
JOURNAL OF
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VOYAGE
boat of the Sphinx, which had been fent after her, had got to
the bottom of the bay, in the place where we ufed to water.
They were both returned when we came on board.
In the morning of the fixth of January wc went back to the
town, to return our thanks to the Governor, and to pay him
the compliments of the new year. He detained us to dinner.
The converfation turned much upon the curiofities of the
country. This made the Governor rccolleft that he had a fhell
which he thought very fcarce. H'd Ihcwed it us : it was a papy-
raceous Nautilus, as large and beautiful as any I ever faw. He
made a prefent of it to M. de Bougainville. It had been fent to
him from Rio de Janeiro ; and he told us, he had found a fimi-
lar one on the coaft of the ifland Maldonnadoj but that it had
been broken. The Governor's lady gave me a parcel of the
Canchalagua, which was all fhe had left of it. A few days
before (he had made M. de Bougainville a prefent of a paro-
quete, which fpoke very prettily, and had alfo given him a cup
made of the Calabafli of Peru, mounted in filver, with a Botri'
bilia, or tube of the fame metal, ufed to fuck up the mate.
Many authors of voyages have mentioned the Paraguay plant,
or Caflioberry bufli, as one of the principal fources of the riches
of the Spaniards, of the Indians, and efpecially of the Jefuits
inhabiting this province. That my readers may be perfedlly
acquainted with this plant and its ufe, I fliall infert the account
given of it by M. Ullou, which he had from the miflionaries of
the country j for as they fuffer none but their own brethren to
penetrate into the country, this account can only be had from
them.
•
" It IS affirmed, fays M. Ulloa, that the fale of this plant was
at firft fo confiderable, and became fo great a fund of riches,
that luxury foon introduced itfelf among the conquerors of this
country, who were at firft reduced to the bare neceflarics of life.
As their tafte for luxury was always increafing, in order to fup-
port their prodigious expenccs, they were obliged to have
lecourfc to the Indians fubdued by force of arms, or who had
3 voluntarily
^X'K'^'^
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TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 133
voluntarily furrendered themfelves:of thefe they made their fervants,
and foon after their flaves. They worked them too hard, (o that
many of them fell under the weight of labour they were iinufcd
to i and more of them under the opprefiion of the cruel treat-
ment they were expofed to, rather from the lofs of their ftrength,
than from their indolence. Others efcaped by flighty and became
moft irreconcileable enemies to the Spaniards. The Spaniards
fell into their former ftate of indigence j which however did not
make them more induflrious. Luxury had increafed their wants
fo much, that the fale of the Paraguay plant alone was not fuf-
ficient to fupply them : moft of them indeed ^ere now no longer
able to buy it, for the great confumption of it had enhanced its
price." Tom. L page 13.
This plant, fo famous in South America, is the leaf of a tree
about the bignefs of a middling fized apple-tree. Its tafte is
like that of the mallow, and in figure it nearly refembles the
orange leaf. It alfo bears forae refemblance to the leaf of the
Cocoa of Peru, where a great deal of it is carried, efpecially
among the mountains, and in all places wh'ere tliey work the
mines. The Spaniards think it the more neceflary, as the uib
of the wines of the country is hurtful there. It is brought dry,
and almoft reduced to powder. It is never fuffered to remain
long in infufion, becaule it would then turn the water as black
as ink.
It is diftinguiflied into two kinds, though they arc both one
and the fame leaf. The firft is called Caa, or Caamini ; the
other Caacuysy or Terva de Pales ; but Father del Tccho afTerts that
the name of the genus is Gj^ ; and ditiinguifhes three Ipecies,
under the names Caacuis, Caamini. and Luaguazu.
According to the lame travcll-r, v.ho palled great part -of his
life in the Paraguay, the Cn:icuyn is the firft bud, juii u'/<'lp,r-!ing
to expand its lea\es. TJie Caamini is the leaf in full • th,
from which the ftalks are taken, before it is roafted: if ••: _ .lalks
are left on, it is cciilcd Caaguazu or Palos. The leaves when
roafted are prefervcd in pits digged in the earth, and covered
with
I
'
fome faid that one of them was a Maltcfe, others that bf cams
from Bifcay : they had given him the pick-name of Spaniard.-
The other came from lower Britanny, We fearched for them
in vain. We learnt afterwards that they had offered to enter
on board the Spanilh frigate, 8t. Barbc, but the owner a^^urcd me
he had refufed them. A few days after four failors deferted from
the Sphinx : one of them named Plai£ance, who had been for«>
mcrly a dragoon, and had ferved in Canada under M. de Bou.
gainville. This man had been very prefling fo let hiai embark
with us, when we left 8t. Malo. M. de Bougainville had al«
ways looked upon him as a very honeft and brave man, very
fit to become an inhabitant of a colony. He had given him two
complete fuits, and other cloaths. Two days before he had de«
ierted, he had been trufted with & fu^l* and a rich fwo< 1 to fell.
He gave out that they had been flolen from him. Whether this
report was true, or whether he had really fold them, it is certain
that one of the inhabitants declared that Plaifance had fold the
fword to an officer's iervant. Plaifance finding himfelf fufpefled,
and not being able to dear himfelf properly of the accufation,
ran away, for fear of being puni(hed for his di(honefly. The
Governor, at M. de Bougainville's felicitation, who had pro-
mifed ten piafters for every deftrt€r that fhould be brought back
to him, fent fome dragoons after them, but they came back
without any tidings of them. I believe that if one had even pro-
mifed a reward of one hundred piafters, they would not have
flopped any of them : for it «s the intereft of Spain to re*
tain as many men as pofllbie in the country for the fake of
popu]i».tion.
'.-;C5S V-'(V,'j/,.:!!; ■ n(ci.;b -A;:'.,:',:? •\ Monte
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Moutevideo is a new colony. Five and twenty years 'Ig6
there were only a few huts in it. It is, however, the only toler^
able place for the anchorage of flups that come up the Rio de
la PU^<*. At prefent it is a fmall town which improves every
day. The flreets are made perfectly Arait, and wide enough to
admit three coaches abreall;. I have given a view of it, taken ae
it appeared from on board the Eagle frigate, while we lay at
anchor between the mountain and the town, according to tW
defcriptioti I have given above.
The houiies confiftonly of ground floors, under the roof) ont
of them only is co be excepted ) this is fituated in the great
fquare, and belongs to the engineer, who built it and lives in
tt. It has one ftory, and a kind of a double roof with a pretty
long proje^^ion, which fupports a balcony in the middle of tho
front. I have given the plan of this town.
Each tradefman's houfe generally confU^s of a hall, which
ibrves by way of entrance, a few bed'chambers, and a kitchen,
the only place in which there is a chimney, and where they
make any fire. Thefe houfes are therefoie properly a ground
floor, fourteen or fifteen feet high, including the roof. The
entrance into the Governor's houfe is a long fquare hall, which
receives light only from one fmall fafh> half filled with paper
and half with glafs. The bottom of the fafli is clofed with
planks of polilhed wood. This hall may, perhaps, be about fif<*
teen feet wide, by eighteen feet long. From hence one goes into
the room for receiving company, which is almoft fquare, but
rather longer than it is wide. At the bottom, oppoiite the only
window in the room, made much in the fame tafte as that I-
have before defcribed, there is a kind of alcove fix feet wide,
clofed with bars of iron, and covered with tigers Ikins. In the-
middle of this is an arm chair for the Governor's Lady, and on
each fide Gk (lools covered, as the arm chair is, with crimfori
velvet. All the ornament confilis in three fmall bad pictures,
and a fev.^ large plans, half- pencilled and half coloured, ftlll
worfe in point of drawing than the pictures. The tv^o <^her
fides
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140 J JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
fides of the room are filled witi; lafi for the men. Theft ore
wooden chairs with very high backs, refenibllng thofe made in
the time of Henry the fourth of France, having two turned
pillars fupporting a frame which adorns the middle, covered with
leatlier, curioufly ftainped and wrought, as well as the feat.
The door which leads from this room into the next, where tho
Governor and his lady fleep, is only dofed by a kind of curtain
made of tapeftry. The two angles of this room on each fide
of the window are filled up, one with a wooden table, upon
which the veflfel for taking the Mat^ always (tands ; the other
with a kind of cupboard, having two or three fhelves, fumKhed
with a few china dilhes and cups.
The lady of the houfe is the only perfon who fits in the
alcove when there are only men in company, except (he fliould
invite fome of them to fit on the ftools near her.
Thefe rooms have, generally fpeaking, neither flooring, nor
pavement. From the infide of them one may fee the reeds
which fupport the tiling of the roof.
The white people fpend their time in idle converfation, in
taking the Mat^, or in fmoaking a Sigare or Cigare, which is a
kind of fmall cylinder, fix or feven inches long, and about half
an inch in diameter, compofed of tobacco leaves rolled one over
the other.
The merchants, and a very few artifts, are the only perfons
who have any employment at Montevideo. There are no (hops,
no figns, nor no outward ftiow, by which they can be found.
But one is fure of meeting with them, if one goes into any houfe
fituated in an angle formed by the meeting of two ftreets. The
fame merchant fells wine, brandy, woollen drapery, linen,
toys, &c.
In the ftreets one meets with nothing but white or black
people, or mulatoes on horfcback i and horfes ftanding at the
doors of the houfes without being faftened. This country might
well be called a hell for horles. They often make them work
tliree days following, without giving them either meat or drink ;
Ibmetimes
* (
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 1411
fomctimes they arc kept tied up for as Ic ii[; a time, with the
fame treatment, and doing nothing exc .)t ri'ining from the
end of one ftreet to another. At the end vi three days, they are
fcnt back again into tlie country to feed upon what grafs they
can find. The perfon who goes with them, takes off the faddle,
and puts it upon another horfc, whom he bringS' to the town' to
be treated in the fame manner, ' • -• -4 ^ ^^ ■ -m *• • 11^ A
Notwithftanding this they are excellent cattle, having pre*
ferved the fpirit of the SpaniHi hoifcs, from which they are bred.
They are extremely fure footed, and furprizingly fwift. Their
flep is fo (harp, and fo long, that it is equal to the full trot^
or fmall gallop of our horfes. Some of them are fo light that
nothing can be compared to them. When they ftep they raife
the fore foot and the hind foot at the fame time ; jnd inftead
of bringing tlie hind foot in the place where the fore foot was,,
they Aretch it out much farther, bringing it oppofite to and>
even beyond the fore foot of the other fide { which makes their
motion as, quick again as that of other horfes, and at the fame
time much eafier for the rider. They are not remarkable for
beauty -, but deferve much encomium for their fwiftnefs, mild-
nefs, courage, and abflemioufnefs. The inhabitants make no
provifion of hay or ftraw for thefe animals. Their only food alii
the year is in the fields. It is true, that in this country it is.
never cold enough to freeze either the rivers or the plants.
The environ: of Montevideo are an extenfive plain. The
foil is a black thick earth, exticmely fertile with very little ma-
nurement. This country only wants fome perfons to be em-
ployed in cultivating it to become one of the beft in the world.
The air of it is wholefome, the fky ferene, and the heat not
exceffive. It is rather deficient in wood, which is found only
a long fide the rivers. Here tigers, leopards,, and other wild
hearts chiefly refort. The tigers cfpccially are rather numerous,,
larger, and more fierce than thole of Africa. The Governor
had one of thefe ti^u's brought up from a, whelp in his court
yard. He was faftentd near the enUaiice of the door, with a.
fingje:
W'M
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14$
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
Tingle ftrap of leather, pafTed rounid hit neck* The dragoons
and fervants ufed to play with him, and he never gave any figns
of his natural ferocity. They ufed to turn him about, to puU
him, to throw him over and over u one would do a tame cat.
The Governor feeing that M. de BQUgainville took a fancy to
him, had him carried on boifd,,'and made a prefent of him.
A cage was made for him of tliick planks, fix inches in fquarei
and he was kept eight days. At the end of this time, he began
to roar now and then, efpeciidty in the night. It was then ap-
prehended that he would grovf lurioos, or that, even in play, he
might fwallow the arm of fomt of the (hip boys, or children
who went to &e him, and who fometimes put their hands
between the planks of hti cage. Bcfides, it was neceflary to
fupply him with frefh meiJb B» .hi» food, ati4 we had none of
thattofpare. Thefe condlc^itioilB detenniad^M. de Bougain>
vilie to haw him ftianglrJ^ He was then but' four months old,
and his height, when he GxnA upri^hi^ was two feet three inches.
By this one may judge how high he would have grown.
The Spaniards of Moatcvideo live, asl have faid before> in
great indolence. They are doathed nearly a0 the t^ortuguefe at
the iflandof St. Catherine^ but they very fitquently wear white
hats, the Asps of which ^k«f!|^lo(^e over their fhoulders, and
cannot be made too large for them.
The wonoien are pretty wdS ihaped, but one cannot fay with
truth that they have a oonT{^xion of lilies and rofes $ on the
contrary they are much tanned, have commonly but few teeth,
and thole not white. -»= . t;*4p# |., -
Their drefs confifb Sdtwiffdly of a plant white or coloutied
waiftcoat, wdl itted to the waift, the ikirts of which fall four
fingers in length iqion the petticoat. This petticoat is made of
r> i\uff more or lefs rich, according to the circumftances or fancy
of the pcrlbn who wears it. It is edged with gold lace, or with
a fringe of filver, gold, or filk ; fometimes in double rows, but
without flounces. They wear no caps of linen or lace, A (im-
ple nbbon palled round the head keeps the hair together at the
6 top,
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TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 145
ther at the door of a houCc, talking and fmoking; Others
mount their horfes, and go out, not to take a ride about the
country, but through the flreet. If they have a fancy for
it, tliey get off their horfes, mix with any company they
meet, goflip for two hours without faying any thing of
confequcnce, fmoke, take fome Mattft then mount theii horfes
again ho has been all thi^ while (landing as ftock Hill as a
V joden horfe, without being i^aftened, and as if he was liftning
to the converfation. Sometimes there are as many horfes
■•s men. 1^,^^ .,,,.,
I mg this interval, the women remain /' -.ird on a ftool at
•ttorn of their apartment i having r ^ ;.t;ir feet next to
Ho( a mat made of reeds, and over the /out fome cloaks
c favagcs, or Ikins of tigers. There they play upon the
^o.iur, or upon any other inftrument, which they accompany
with the voice j or they take the MtJtJt while the negro women
are drelTing the dinner in the fame room.
About half an hour after twelve, or one o'clock, the dinner is
fcrved up ; this confifts of beef drefled in various ways, but
always with a great quantity of pimento and fefran. Sometimes
ragoos of mutton are brought up, which they call Camera j and
fomeilmes fifli, but veiy feldom any poultry, which is rather
icarce. There is great plenty of game, but the Spaniards do not
go in queft of it, as that would be too fatiguing. The defert is
compofed of fweetmeats.
Immediately after dinner, both mafters and flaves indulge wi
the Sie^a, that is, they lie down -, fomeiimes they undrcfs them-
fclves and go to bed, where they fleep for two or three hours.
Workmen, who live by the labour of their hands, do not deny
themfclves thefe hours of indulgence. A great part of the day
being thus lol>, this is the reafon of their doing but little work,
ami makes all handicrafts exceflively ilear. This circumftance
may alfo proceed from the plenty of money there is here.
It is not furprizing they fliould be indolent and lazy. Their
meat colls them only the trouble of killing, Ikinning, and cut-
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ting lip thf ox todrefi it» ftread is V«-y clwfep. Il'ht Ikihs 6^
dxth sttid eo^ f(irv« to Hiake llWfil all kinds of feck^, to >£o^«t'
p^rt dF their honfe^, ahd for « thbiilahd d!h(k* pui-pofes, for \Ar^kh
difitrent {biffs of inateri^ls are Ufed ih Europe. Thefe (Idils &x
(o cotniiion, that many flips of thetii tire found fc^ttered here
aiid there along the ftitets the leitft frei^uen(!ecl, ih the fquares^
atid upon the walls of the gardens. ' '*« fwe^smof at ; a , ,
« PeA*r bf thefe gfcrdfeiis are cultivated, ifiOttgli thcit is o:ie bc»
longing r« eafch hoaft^. Thb ground is' left fbiloVv'. I fa# but
one garden tolerably well kept, and this undoubtedly was becaufe
the gardener v/as an. Eh^iJhman. Vegfetables therefore are
ftarce here. The plant they cultivate the moft is the fefran or
Carthamtim, for their foiip And faucts^^ /' n ^ jw; r .
^ lit is very comnUMi among theth to keep a ftiiflrefs. Thoie-
v^ have children 1^ them, give thefe children a kind of legi-
timacy, by acknowledging theitifelves piiblickly to be their
fathers : after which, thefe children inherit nearly «s the legitimates
do. There is no ignoMitiy fixed upon illegitimate births; be-
caufe the laws iauthorize theim fo far, as even to beflow the title
of gentlemen to baftarrfs : in which thefe lAWs appear more
agreeable to Immaiiity, not making the innocent fufBer for the
guilty.
I have obferved, while I Was ait mafs, that the Chaflbble Mtras*
compofed only of thfcte (lips of (tuff, fewed together lengthways,
without being in the form of a crofs. The middle flip only is
of a different colour from the other two. During the time of
mafs, one of the inhabitants plays upon the harp^ in a gallery r
this harp certainly ferves inffead of an organ. I faw no par-
ticular demon(tration of devotion, but that of ftriking their
breafb pretty hard five or fix different times, from the t)eginning
of the fervice till after the communion. The Ro(ary is much
in ufe here ; and the Ave Maria is atmoft the only prayer they^
fay. Many of them wear the Rofary round their necks. The
Portuguefe of St. Catherine's ifland, white men, negroes, and
Inulatoes, had likewise almoft all of them Rofaries ; fome wore
them
:»f--
\
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 147
them outv«rardiy, cfpccitdly the blacks, the others wore them
under their cloaths. They are alfo very devoutly inclined to the
fcapulary of mount Carmel ; which i» worn by both men and
women. They think the fcapulary and the Aviilas will preferve
them from all dangers, and infure their eternal falvation. Tl ey
are fcru[niloiK only about the externals of devotion. Thei^
Avillas which one fees hanging at their necks are a kind of fea
chefnut, refembling a flat round bean, of the fize of a half-
crown, and two lines and a half in thicknefs } the ikin is gra-
nated, and very finely (hagreened, of a pale chefnut colour } at
its circumference there is a black band, which almoft furrounds
it. I picked up a great many of them on the fea coail, at the
illand of St. Catherine, without knowing what they were : and
I have leeh many of them mounted in filver, at a goldfmith's
fbop in Montevideo. He tdd me, that when it was worn round
the neck it prefervedfrom in£e£iious air and witches.
At each altar there b a veil which reaches from top to bot-
tom, always hanging before the principal image, hi tbe fame
manner as Hiat they place in France befove die hoft, when taken
out of tbe tabern.de, during the time of a fermon or a dif-
courfe. This veil always remains. At the beginning of mafs»
the ftring which fa^ns the veil is pulled up, and the veil railed
like a curtain,, (c^ as to difcover the image : when mafs is oveiv
the veil is let down agaiz>.
Two days after failing from Cape Frehel, near St. Malo, we
put into a fmali barrel of water a liquor which had been given
us by M. Seguin, a chymift, who lives in the rue des pojle^t prh
de tEjlrapadtt at Paris, as a prefervative of fweet water from
corruption, as wf;ll by fea as by land, and as having the pro-
perty not only of preventing, but likewife of curing the fea
fcurvy. As we had hitherto kept the water we brought with us>
from St. Malo's, fweet ; we now compared it with the other, and
finding no difference, v^ determined not to open this cafk again»
in which we had put the liquor, till the frelh water ihould un-
dergo fome confiderable change^
8 The
lu
148
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE T
f The very night in which the ftorm obliged us to lie at the
Governor's, it produced more fatal confequences, at the diftance
of two cannon (hot from our frigates. The thunder was very :
loud, and the lightning fell upon the Spanifli vef^l the St. Barbe,
which had fliifted her anchorage two days before, in order to
be more at hand for failing out of the river with the iirft favour,
able wind. Their change of pofition brought on this accident,
by which they had one man killed, and fourteen wounded, five
of whom were dangeroufly hurt} and their mizen mafl: was
fhattered.
The next day we carried to the Governor's houfe, the compafs
invented by captain Mandillo a Genoefe, for finding out the
longitude. We wanted to make fome obfervations upon land,
which we had not been able to do upon the veflel ail the time
of our voyage, even when it was calm ; becaufe the fault of this
compafs, is, that the lead motion didurbs 4he fteadinefs of the
needle. During a calm, even when it lies quite even, it is more
or lefs agitated. Notwithftanding all poflible care was taken to
preferve this compafs, yet the damp of the fea air, which pene-
trates every where, had affeded the needles, fo as to make them
a little rufly at the center, and near the parts which keep them
in equilibrio. They had therefore loft that property which is
neceflary, and their magnetic virtue was likcwife fomewhat im-
paired. We cleared them from the ruft, and recovered their
magnetic powers; bdt we remitted oiir obfervations till another
day, becaufe it was now lat d we left the inftrument with
the Governor. ■'*n«»i\ •• ^ ;'*' ■ . ■ ^ f'
On this occafion we exprefled our aftcnifhment to the Go-
vernor, that the inhabitants of Montevideo fliould not think of
procuring themfelves (hade in their gardens, and other extenfive
places, by planting of trees; and we mentioned our furprize
alfo at obferving, that the country feemed totally deprived of
that benefit. He told us there were fome trees along fide the
rivers, and that a country houfe which he had at the diftance
of about two leagues from the city was well furni(hed with
them.
^:
(, (^'
•H-
T<5 THE MALOUiNE ISLANDS. 149
them. He propofed a party to go there on horfeback the next
day in the afternoon, after dining with him. We accepted
of the ride with an intent not only of feeing the country,
but at the fame time to convince ourfelves of the many won-
derful and incredible things he and many others had told us of
the horfes of Paraguay.
The party being concluded on, the Governor took upon him-
felf to provide us with a fulRcient number of horfes, which were
to be ready about three or four o'ck>ck. ,r3ii:/^y-i:> eid 2« ^.uvi?
j->;>The vicar had invited me to dine with him that day, in com-
pany with Me(r. Duclos, the two brothers, firft and iecond cap-
tain, M. de Belcourt, the paymafter of the SpaniHi troops, a
Fleming who fpoke the French language well, and the two
Tons of M. Duclos the elder. We went there, and during the
whole dinner time, a mulatto played upon the harp. About the
middle of dinner, another man, whom they called a civilized
Indian, joined the former and accompanied him with his guitar.
Then the vicar, who was the only eclefiaftic in town, called
in four or five little blacks about eight or ten years old,
and as many negro girls of the fame age. He made them dance
to the found of his inftruments, and the caflancts they had in
their hands. The children acquitted themfelves with furprifuig
agility and clevernefs. One circumllance a little tirefome in thefe
Indian dances, is, that almotl all the fame motions are repeated
in every dance, it mufl; alfo be allowed that there is no great
variety in the tunes they fmg or play. The mufick of fome of
them, efpecially of the Sapateo is pricked down in Frezier's
account of a voyage to the South Sea.
They knew in this country, not only what the King of Por-
tugal had done againft the JeCuits in his dominions, but alfo
what the parliaments of France, and the governmeiu, had en-
a6led againft this fociety. The vicar defired me to give him in
writing an account of what was reprelented in that famous
pidure found among the Jefuits at Billom, in Auvergne, at the
time when an inventory was there taken of tlie furniture ami
.. . - * effcas
W"
156
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE r
.*" **
^
eflfefls of thofe fathers, after the condemnation and fuppreflion
of their inftitution in 1762, and 1763 } and the fecularization
of its members. I fatisfud his curiofity with regard to this au-
thentic monument of Jefuitical folly. This vicar is a man of
good fenfe, and generally beloveds He has thirty flaves, negroes
and negro- women, great and fniall. It is his pleafure always
to have fomebody to dine with him. He gives his company a
hearty welcome, and treats them well. He looks upon all his
Haves as his children, and is beloved by them. He educates
them well in order to give them afterwards their liberty, with
forty or fifty cows or oxen, to put them in a way of keeping up
their freedom. But he pajrs a particular regard, I may indeed
fay, he (hews an uncommon degree of aJSedion, for a little
mulatto, almoft white, who is the Ton of one of his mulatto
flaves, as he was pleafed to fay by an Irifh officer, but who bears
in all the features of his face the (Vrongeft marks of being the
vicar's own Ton. He told us he mtended to fend him into
France to ftudy, and to make a phyfician of him. The child
is at prefent feven years old. When there is company, he makes
him dine by himfelf, and when there ia nobody, often with
him. He has already fettled five and twenty thoufand piafters
upon him. His living, and his own private income bring him
in about four thoufand, and he is now about fixty years old.
We were waited on at table by four negro women, by the
mother of the little mulatto, who is alfo a mulatto, and by an
Indian woman the wife of a Cacique, taken at tlie colony of
St. Sacrament from the Poituguefe, in the laft fiege the Spa-
niards laid to it. Thefe women were all with child, though
neither of them was married except the Indian, who knew not
whether her hufband was alive or dead. Neither men nor
women in this country, are in the leaft fcrupulous upon this
article. -f;ir:^r -L^^i'A'^j r':i^.>-*'f -.>-i.'in .;:
At the defert, MeflT. de Bougainville, de Nerville, and I'Huillier
de la Serre, came to meet us ; and we all went together to the
Governor s houie, where we found hodes i-eady for us. The
* Governor's
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 151
43overnor's lady, drelTed like an Amazon, and having a gold
laced hat on, cocked after the military fafliion, put herfelf at
the head of our cavalcade, mounted upon a beautiful horfe,
whofe value anfwered to his appearance. M. de Bougainville's
horfe was equally fine. With a kind of doubled pace, which
refembled ambling, they always left us behind. It was all we
could do to keep with them, fome of us trotting, others on a
canter. We continued this pace till jve reached the country
houfe, which we did not do till more than a full hour after our
firft fetting out, though they told us it was no more than one
league diftant from Montevideo.
Father Rock, a Francifcan, was here waiting for us, with the
Governor's fon, a child of three years and a half, to whom this
father was preceptor. We found a plentiful collation ready for
us ; and after drinking a glafs, merely on account of the heat of
the weather, we went to fee the Governor's orchard, which he
called a wood. ^ ' •::•■, it -
This country feat is nothing extraordinary with regard to the
houfe; which confifts of one fingle ground floor, as all the
other houfes do j on account of the violent winds, very frequent
in this country, which might blow them down if they were built
higher. The only remarkable thing here is a tolerably pretty
room, which however has no other ornament than fome geogra-
phical maps, fixed on the bare wall, and fome wooden chairs
covered with leather, which is figured with flower work.
At the diftance of two or three gun (hots from the houfe, the
orchard is planted : this confifts of apple, pear, peach, and fig
trees, difpofed in alleys^ which are not very regular, except the
middle walk, which reaches from one end of the orchard to the
other, and is about a mile and a half in length. A pretty con-
fiderable brook winds through the orchard; which has probably
hindered the walks from being cut ftrait. They are however
extremely rural, on account of the number of tall, as well as
low plants growing in them without cultivation. The balm
efpecially abounds there, I acquainted the Governor, M. Bella,
Z and
¥
'5a
JOURNAL OF MY VOVAOB
and another officer, with Its virtues. They were the more
pleafcd with my account, as the olant is extremely plentiful in
this country, and they thought it might perhaps be uTed inftead
of the Mat^. „' » ; '^ ' . , . ; v i r
The trees were fo laden with fruit, that moft of the branches,
unable to dipport the weight, were already broken. We advi£bd
the Governor to have the others fupported with props, more
efpecially as he told us, that all thefe fruits were of the beft and
mod excellent kind. We could not judge of this ourfdves, as
the time of their being ripe, was not till the end of February %
at prefent however they had an exceeding fine appearance.
One might make a delightful walk of this orchard } but the
Governor does not employ any body about it, hecauTe it is
his intention to Return to Europe, where he propo&s to fix
entirely.
As we v^ere coming back, I fpoke to fadier Rodi, and held a
converfation with him in Latin, upon feveral points of philor
fophy ; which I foon found he had only fludied in Ariftotle's
fchool, both by the barbarous and ob£)lete terms he made uie
of, and by the fyftem he followied. He indeed coofelTed himfeif
to be much attached to k. He told lae, he was a Peripatetie
and a Scotijit itnd wou/d remain Jo all bis life. He fpoke pretty
good Latin, and with facility. The greateft difficulty to me viras
his pronunciation of u as ou, and his manner of pronouncing
the g, which the Spaniards always lofe in their dicoats, pro*
nouncing it nearly as an afpirate. Befides the attention this
required of me in order to underiland him, I was alfo obliged
to confidei' of what I had to fay, and at the fame time to epdea-p
vour to catch his pronunciation, without which, be might not
perhaps have comprehended me. A £ew days before, for the
firft time, I had been exadly in this fituation with him. Having
heard that he was a man of learning, I had been to pay him
a vifit at his convent. I inquired for him, in the Latin tongue,
of one of his brethren who opened me the door. He made me
a fign to walk in, without anfwering a fingle word, i went in,
7 and
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 153
and meeting with three more brethren, I inquired for father
Roch in the fame language : and one of them anfwered me only.
Padre Fratre Rocb? fuoras. This was all I could get out of
him. On this occafton as on many others I felt how difagree-
able it was for a traveller to be unacquainted with the language
of the country he is in. The want of comprehending exa£lly
what others fay j and the being obliged to be filent, when one
has fomething oS confequence to fay, for fear of not being
rightly underftood, is a fituation worfe than that of a deaf man,
who has at leaft the fati8fa6tion of fpeaking, and making him-
felf underftood.
On returning a fecond time to the convent, I had the good
fortune to meet with the fuperior, who anfwered me in good
Latin, which he (poke, though with kmt little faditation. He
brought me kite his cell, where we converfed together for a full
iialf hour, after whtdi father Roch came and jomed us. In the
courfe of this converfatton, he informed me of iamQ remedies,
the fuccefs of which he had feen in repeated experiments. I
give the receipts of fome of them here, that any perfon who
thinks proper may have an opportunity of trying them.
*]^ootb'acb,
Extraft from the fuller's thiftle, a worm which is always
found in it when it is ripe. Rub this worm between the thumb
and fore-finder, prefTnig it gently till it dies through weakne(s.
One or other of thefe two fingers applied to the tooth will
have, at lead: for a whole year after, the |)roperty of removing
tUi pain.
The Farcy in Horfes*
At the end of autumn colled the bearded protuberances, or
kinds of chefftuts belonging to the eglantine : bruife the worm
you will find in them, and make the horfe fwallow it in a glals
of wine, or any other liquid j then cover him up warm.
Z 2 A
)
»54
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
■ •- * ' ' A foundered Horfe. '; ' • '
Let him take one or two fpoonfuUs of common Talt, in lialf
a pint of common water. ^HT ,{\ \ ' ' v* ' V" .
.1
Malignant Fevers,
Under each fole of the patient's feet, apply a tench quite alive,
without flitting them, or doing them any injury. Bind them on
with linen rollers, take them off at the end of twelve hours,,
taking care if poITible, not to infpire the fmell that comes from
them, then bury them quickly, or throw them down the houfe
of ofHce ; and the patient will foon recover.
t'S^-t-n .'-••^i.
'■W''
^infey.
Take as many earth worms alive as will make up the iize of
an egg } put them between two pieces of thin muflin, and apply
them round the patient's bare throat. Renew the application ■
every three hours for two days fucceflively. "'^ • ■>
Bleeding of the nofe.
Put into the patient's two noflrils, or behind both his earff,^
a fmall quantity of hair taken from the private parts of the fex
different from the patient s and the blood will (lop almoft in*
ftantaneoufly. < *' ' ' ' i i. ; , ., .
An infallible plaijler for Bringing out the fmall'Pox when It has Seen
driven in.
Take fome rye meal ; mix it up with fome rain water, (bme
verjuice, a new laid egg, and half an ounce of orpiment finely
powdered. Beat the whole well together, and fpread it upon«
blotting paper. Sprinkle it with cloves in powder, and apply
this poultice to the foles of the feet ; it mult be left there for the
fpace of four and twenty hours, then taken off, and thrown
q^aickly into the fire* . ,^ .
Fmff
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 155
- Fluor jllbus,
Bruife the leaves of the plant called moufe-ear, and fqueeze
out the juice to the quantity of two ounces, which the patient
mud take fading, in a cup of broth, or a glafs of white wine.
The dofe muft be repeated for fome days fucccfllvely, after fome
purging phyfic has been given to the patient} who will feed
only upon meats of eafy digedion, and will abflain from all
kind of excefs. The father aifured me that this medicine had
cured women in five or fix days, who had been aiHi£ted with,
this diforder for eight or ten years.^
' T
Immoderate Menftrual Fluxi ^
Torrefy, upon a new earthen plate, or upon the fire^fhovel
well cleaned, as much hair, taken from the private parts of a
healthy middle aged man, as one can hold between the finger
and thumb. Reduce it to powder j and let the patient take it
fading in a glafs of good red wine. For a fuppredion of the
menfes it mufl be taken in white wine. The remedy may b&
repeated a fecond time.
Swelled Glands and other fcropbulous Tumors.
Apply one or two dead plantain leaves to them. Renew the
application, with frefh plantain, twice a day. At the fame time,:
let the patient take, every morning fading, a warm infufion o£
walnut-tree leaves, in the fame manner as tea..
\h sh
Colic t and Stitch in the Side.
Let the root of the fun-flower be applied under the armpit o£
the fame fide where the pain is. As foon as it is grown warni>
there the colic goes off. This application, was tried with fuc<^
cefs in aa obdinate ditch of the fide*
\'M.
Exoftoju,
Flatten a ball, which has killed an animal, and apply it im^
mediately upon the part adefted.
' \i\
I-f;.-.
^%5i!{f^
>"'*.'« *
' .
156 JOURNAL OF MY VOYAOt
Palfy.
Boil fume radiflies in water, with a fmall quantity of gin, and
' drink it for common drinic. One may alio put radifhes into the
foup inftead of common foup herbs.
' '■ ■' Ulcers, • '
. Chew the dried treadles of (heep, and apply them by way of
of pouhice to the fore. Let the application be renewed morning
and evening.
Cancer aini Ulcerst
Put a large live toad into a new earthen pot, and over it put
two ounces of rolls of fulphur in powder. Lute the pot well,
and calcine the whole. Apply the afhes to the cancer.
Cirrts and Warts,
After having fcratched them and taken off the hard part, rub
them well with tlie mufhrooms which grow naturally upon a
dunghill.
Pains after Cbild-birfb,
Boil two new laid eggs, and put into each of them a piece
of fugar ill powder, as big as a filbert j mix it well with the
yolks, and let the lying-in woman take it, drinking over it a
glafs of good wirte daflied with a little water.
To premcle ihe Difchetrge of the Lochia,
Put two drachms of flower of fulphur into two glafles of
boiling water, let this boil for a few minutes, then ftrain it
through a linen rag, and let the liquor be taken.
An Amulet a^ainjl the Falling Sieknefs. • -
Put into a crucible, upon a flow fire, 6ne ounce of SpaniAi
mercury, or mercury feparated from cinnaber. When the mer-
cury acquires a little heat, and begins to fimmer, throw in one
drachm of filver beaten very thin, ami ftir the whole 'K'ell with
a rod of iron, a little heated. Afterwards remove the CfucJble
..' -T- * quickly
•' ?*/ J
J| tLu.
,**^
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 157
quickly from the fire, and pour out the contents, leaving them
to grow cold, Put this amalgama into a fiQall leathern bag,
cloTely fowed up, Faften this bag vound the neck with a Aring,
To as it (hould fall upon the pit of the ftomach, where it muft
be conAantly worn, fiefore this amulet is applied, the patient
muft be blooded in the cephalic vein, at the new moon. The ^
bleeding muft be repeated, at the new moon, the two following
months.
Broncbocele, ^,
Apply fome common fait, wdl dried and a little warm, \o
the tumor. When the fait grows damp, let it be taken ofFy
well dried, and then applied again } this proccfs is to be re- -
peated till the diforder is cured.
Specks on the Eyes.
T^ke of dragon's blood, of fuccotrine alces, and of royrrh,
fq^ual quantities, and let them all be very finely powdered. Mix
a Aifiic^ent quantity of this ^< 'W<^er with the yolk of a new laid
egg* fo 3s to form a plai(ler, which is to be applied to the tem-
ple on the fame fide as the eye afFefted. When the plaifter falls
off of itfelf, put another on, and continue in this manner till
the cur« is completed.
Pain in the 'Teeth, and bow to make them fall out without
Pain.
Pu^ into the hollow of die tooth three drops of ipirit of fal
aniQioniac, and a fmall bit of cotton over it.
Corns in the feet.
Take off the indurated part, without making them bleed,
then apply feverdi times, the red fediment found at the bottom
of a chamber pot, when the urine has been left any time in
it. Then cover them with a piece of thin leather, repeating this
till the corns are removed.
Fluxiow
9.
■xi^.'.'
-'*.
i5«
JOURNAL OF MV VOYAGE
%.
Fluxion in the Breaft.
Set a pint of good cow's milk upon the fire } when it boils
fkim it two or three times, then throw in a large glafs of good
Spanish wine, and after it has boiled up twice, take it from the
£re. When the milk is turned, ((rain off the whey through a
linen rag, and let the patient drink a fmall glafs full of it warm
every quarter of an hour. - • - . ; .
to bring about the Delivery of a dead Child,
Take fome of the feed of the greater burdock, reduce it to
powder, and let the patient take one drachm of it in a glafs
x)f wine. ' . '■ '
f >
Convulfions in Children caufed by Teething,
Cut fome of the root of wild valerian into fmall pieces.
String them like the beads of a necklace, fo as to make a neck-
lace of them for the child j who is to wear it 'till the teeth
Jiave pierced the gum. The application may be renewed every
fortnight. . . . • ,
Dropfy.
Let the patient take, fading, as mlich of the mifletoe of eg-
lantine in powder as will cover a farthing, after it is infufed the
whole night in a glafs of white wine, which is alfo to be taken.
Half of this dofe only is given to women and children. This
medicine was communicated to me by a Lieutenant of our fri-
gate named Le Roy. He told me his father had tried it fe-
veral times, and with fuccefs.
Hyfteric Vapour i.
Rub the infide of a faucer with garlic laid on very thick;
Then apply the fide rubbed with garlic to the navel. Hold it
on 'till it flicks, and let it not be removed till it falls off of
itfelf.
Ftjlulce
:. • . *• '<:'
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. i^y
/ - MJUdatf aUKinis,
Take the leaves of St. John's wort, of the lefler. worm wood,
and of the round birthwort, ofeach one handful: fuccotrine aloes,
and myrrh in powder, of each one ounce. Let the whole be in-
fufed in two quarts of good white*wine, in a pot well glazed, and
Arongly luted upon a gentle heat, for three quarters of an hour :
let it afterwards boil for a quarter of an hour: ftrain off the
liquor when cold, and add to it one pint of good fpirit of
wine. Keep the whole in a, bottle weU,coi;ked.
Thi& liquor is to be inje^ed into the fiftula five or fix times a
day, applying a tent or comprefs dipped tn the fame to the
vround. This remedy has been tried feveral times iuccefsfuUy,
l)y M. Duvwnay, aiurgeon of Chambery. .., . ..^
Jpor X^jfordtrj ^the Byes^ ewn the Gutta Sereffa,ian Optbalmk won-
, t. . . , . _ , ^ ^erful in its 'E^e&si, *:■,-,'
Take thirly-one live cray-fi(h, caught precifely when the fun
and moon ace in Cancer, and not at any other time. Take alfo
pf the xoots, Aalks, leaves and flowers of the celandine, gathered
before fttn-*rife, as much as will equal the weight of the cray-
jfilh. When all this has been well pounded together in a wooden
or ftone mortar, add of fienneUfeed one ounce, of bean flower
and camphor eadi half an ounce; doves, hepatic aloes, pre-
pared tutty, all in powder, of each two drachms. Mix the whole
well in a mortar, and divide it afterwards into three parts. Put
one of the parts into an alembic» and diftil in B. M. till it is
dry : take out the refiduum, preferve it, and put a fecond part
of the compOfition into the. alembic, together with the water
drawn ofl^ from the firft diflillation. Diflil this again till it is
dry. Take out the refidnum a fecond time, keep it, and put in,
in its ilead, the third part of the compodtion, with all the water
diftilled. Let the diftillation be xe|>eated a third time. After-
wards c&lcine the three refiduums in a cloTe veflel, extract the
fait by diflblution, filtration, and evaporation, fecundum or-
ttm. Let the ialt obtained be added to the diililled water, and
A a after
i6i» •' JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE '^^
after the whole has digefted on a flow fire, keep the liquor in 4
bottle well corked. .
.♦w.
5;, -^if-...^ !,,:.! t.-. -o^ i.jjj'ie. ^{(3^
i\r:vr:i hiffn
,|,eJii«' teucl. j^^^^^j ofujing the foregoing Application.
^ ' Let the patient be'purged at leaft twice with a mild cephalic
medicine, leaving the interval of a day between the two dofes;
and if he is plethoric he muft be blooded once at the decline of
the moon. Two or diree drops of this collyrium are afterwards
to be introduced into the eye morning and evening, with the
black feather of a fowl's wing, and let a flight comprefs dipped
in the liquor be applied over the eye.
' During the ufe of this remedy, which muft be continued about
forty days for a gutta ferena, one muft be careful to keep the
boj'iJ> 'jf„ eifcellent and almofl univerfal Balfam. ^ ' '^
* ~ Put into a glazed earthen pan,' which will bear the fire,
and which holds about five or fix quarts of water, three pints
of fine olive oiF, ' half a pound of frefli yellow wax, cut into
fmall pieces, half a' pint of rofe water, three pints of good
red wine, and two ounces of red faunders in powder. Let
the whole boil together for half an hour, ftirring' the mixture
all the while with a wooden fpatula. When this is done, throw
in a pound of fine Venice turpentine, not of the common fort,
with four ounces of good honey, and two drachms of camphor
in powder. The finer fort of Venice turpentine is not fliarp to
the tongue, and has no difagreeable fmell ; it Is white and not
yellow. Mix the wholfe together by ftiiring it well vwth- the
ijpatula
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. idi
fpatula for one or two minutes; take the pan off the fire, ftra'm
tiiebalfam throu|;h' a linen rag, and let it be kept in earthen
pots.
^^■'A
n'^ 'tm^i^ IOC ■""'i •' '• .lavictj ImUliffU 'Iknil ' -i \-ir. \
ru ,k-' XJfe of the foregoing Balfam.
, For wounds, ulcers, mortifications, contufions, burns, rheu-
matic and other pains, tlie part affected is firfl; either wadied or
fomented with a little warm red wine ; afterwards the part is
v£ry freely anc^nted with the Balfam, and a piece of blotting- .
paper, fteeped in it is applied. This drefTing is repeated morning
and evening. If ^ the wound penetrates any of the cavities of the
.body, the balfaip is to be thrown up with a fyringe, and the pa-
tient niuft take a drachm and a half, or two drachms of it, in
each bafon of broth, or in fome deco6tion of vulnerary herbs.
The iame doze of this medicine may alfo be taken in the pleu-
rify, the cholic, and other internal pains, taking care at the fame
time to apply it warm externally, rubbuig it in on the part
where the pain is feated. I have tried this Balfam and always
with fuccefs. , , .
, .. .,*! ■•■•'!• • ■' ! ■'■:' ■''■••■'•■ ■ ■. :-:,'. }■■ ' ' " ■ ■
For an inveterate Head-ach, caufed by a FhtxioB of Humours, and
• ♦ • ;, '- c, . for/fn Hj/drecepba/us, , .,f^ ,.',,.\^ ... r
Pound, in a wooden or ftone mortar, ten or twelve tops of
vervain, with fome rye-meal, and five, or fix, or more whites of
eggs : the vervain may be omitted. Make a cataplafm of this,
vvhich mud be applied to the nape of the neck, and over the
ihoulders, io as to cover almoft the whole fcapula. Let a fine nap-
kjn four times double be laid over it, and let it be left on for fix or
eight hours. If the patient is not then cured, a fecond poultice
of the fame kind is to be applied, which is to be left on as long
as the other, or thereabouts. It very feldom happens that a third
poultice is neceffary. The patient niuft afterwards be purged.
This poultice is equally beneficial in rheumatifi^s*
A a 2
/i Kwijl
:!•
jfmoi0 J^biha; GJA*. dnd B^iM of tSt BHti/f\ '-'- "^
ht ah eartheii or rttj deitii'coppto partj hf oMfe'ikyuftcFdfi^
juniper berries, well broifcd, be boiled for half an hour, with^ al
pound of frefh unfalted butter, which has not been wafhed,'
Then let the butter Kd ftiVnied off, wM af very ftrong exprefllon
of thd jtiti^r mMi To m ^m&iy fl^ihed^ <^ adtt" an
equal weight of thbbdl hbiltiy, a»doonfbf, is to be UXi^ in' thdi
mornihgrfttftihg^ fuilbiinijB^ ittb'ihelt intiieihdhth^likt arbzanto^.;
The (iSit doze is t6 be reiieMtfed it ni^ht gcnhg tb'kd. WU^
the diforder is dangdroiksi a thihi ddfb'miy bb tkkeh'.tiifeiKdrTc^ui^
hours aPier dinh^r.
Ih cottimon dUbi^ddrs 6f tlsef bre^ tii^ Jfh^ ^m/ikkttiif I^
left out. '^'^
i All th(ire rbm^di^s have nbt bash (!orhn!i^catid tb'iMe by im
Franciftan father whom t have b^tfore itlehtioned; but' AaVhig^
feen the good effects of almoft all thofe I have givdi bdf6re, t
have been very ^ad of this opportunity^ of making them known
for thegood of thfe jJttbfic'
The day after our pai^^df pldaRirelnib the country, which I
havci|^6ie^h of, fobrlndiaiM orKfd^vii^ df the cbun% dhib to
pi'cfeht tkmffl^es tb thfc GbVembi^, vflSe Wi vT^wftH hhit <^ji-
amining Cap^alh Mahdtifo's com|»is. k& (btih. ak the Goverhor
faw thehi coming iin/td his cburt-yaWf, hfc hiatf aM the ddbri of his
rooms fhut up. Upon our afkihg him the rcstfon of this, Ut
told us, that the r66m wohhf be itrfe^ted for ei^t d^ys; if thiy
were fiiffered to cotiie into it; dnd th^ die fntdll «^hitdi e)(-
haled from them ^id itiHf even^ the ^atfs. I^hls fhidl ptt>.
celeds from their ainbihtihg thKr bodies with a certain kind of
oil and greafe to prefeVve thtmielves fkom infefh^
Thefe indiahs finding the door (hiot, came up to the itiiidow^
where we were, and one of them pulled out of a bag made of
a tiger's (kin, a paper written and fblded up, which he prefented;
.--t" - ' r - -■-■'> ■ ^ The
'■■^
I -J:
I
/'. l\./>.lf\1.
/
TO THE IVtALOiriNE ISLAN'DS. 163
The Governor received and read it, being written in the Spanifh
tongue, ft was a ccrtififcate, iil Which feveral Spanifti Governors
declared fucceffively, that the bearer of it was of the race of their
Caciques or Princes, and that hfc htmffelf w^s tht chief of a vil-
lage. The Governor returned the Certificate, and the Indians
aTked him by figns for ai Iheet of'paper ihftbad of the one which
before held the certificate, and which i
chief, and without whofe order, thcfc Indians would not have
«(lvauc il one ftcp, nor have fired a fingle mufket. Tlic Governor
oi Mo4itevidco, who commanded the Spaniards, and feveral other
officers prcfci! at this attack, told me, they were obliged to fettle
the plan of o{-ciation8 with the Jefuit, "vho afterwards gave out
his orders in his own name to the Indians, who were encamped
fcparatcly from the Spaniards.
Dragooi .J arc almoft the only troops of that country. Their
horfcs are equipped in the fame manner as at Paraguay. AH the
men wear the Ponchos, which they find more cgnvenieut than J\n
cloke both for the horfe and his rider.
The Ponchos, as I have faid before, is a piece of ftM"*fc i>ied
like the coverlet of a bed, two or three ells lone^. an.! t cUb
wide. One muft pafs one's head through a (lit in i! •- middle, to
put it on. It hangs down on both fides, anu ucluiid as well as
before. It is wore on hordbback and on foot. The poor people
and the negroes never take it off till they go to bed. It does
not hinder them from working, becaufe it may be thrown back
at the fides over the flioulders ; by which means the arms and
the fore-part of the body are at liberty.
This kind of garment is fafliionable on horfeback, even for
both fcxes, and among perfons of all ranks. It is eafy, however,
to di(%ingt7i'> ranks and fexes, notwithftanding the fimplicity of
the Ponchos. Riding on horfeback is fo common among the
women, that they are as ready and alert at this exercife as the
men. The differences by which the rank and fex may be diftin-
guiflied with regard to the Ponchos, confifl in the finenefs, light-
nefs and richncls of the fluff.
The horfcs are not (hod in this country. The faddle and fur-
niture are alio different from thofe ufed in Europe. They firft
put upon the horfe's bare back a piece of coarfe foft fluff, of a loofe
texture, which they call Schurd''ros \ over that a girth, then a
piece of ftr'^'^g leather of the h^ti o/ tlic (addle, which !u jging,
over the horle's crupper fervf'. ' r n^v. ..g. Th.j is called G/r-
neros. Over this leather is placed the faddle, made like that we
5 ufe
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 169
ufe for pack-horfes, and over the faddlc they throw one or more
fliccp Ikins, fewcd together. This they call the /V/i&w. Above
all this they put a ft-cond girth, 01 lurcingle, tofaftcn the whole.
The lliirnps are fmall and nariow, for they only put the end
of the (hoe into them j and thole who go bare-footed, reft only
the point of the great toe. The bit of the bridle is iron, all of
one piece, and without ftuds. The reins are compofed of fe-
veral fmall ftraps, interwoven with each other, as the firings of
a bell or clock } arnl are at leaft fix feet ami . ^If, or feven feet
in length, as they ferve at the fame timef for a vhip. A femi-
circular bar of iron, attached to the fame piece whu n receives the
horfe's lower jaw, produces the fame efft^ as the urb. That
part of the Carneros which projcfts beyond \..it ladti c, and falls
upon the crupper, is figured.
On the 9th inftant, the Governor, t c ma) of tfic trooj^s,
and their ladies, came on board the Euglc frigate ab< it noon,
where we gave them as good a dinner as we could. 7 he Uii of the
lea, or the motion of he Ihip, though fcarce pei t -^ible, were
rather troublefome to the major's lady, and ma« her ib fick,
that fhe could neither tit nor drink any thing, .k t a couple
of oranges, and was obli £;ed to quit the cabbin wliei we were at
dinner, to go and breath the frelh air upon deck. s circum-
llance rather difturbed our entertainment, and oblig the com'
pany to return to the city very early.
As we were attending them to Ihore in our cuttf we per-
ceived an exceeding foetid imell, much relismbling the utrid ex-
halation from the carcafe )f an animal that has bee; dead a
great while. We thought at firft that it had proceeded from the
dead body of fome bull, kili^d and left upon the fhore til t was
putrificd, from whence the w ind might bring it to us. The Go-
vernor undeceived us ) afTurin g us, that it was the exhalation of
the urine of an animal namec ZoriJ/os, who was cither angry, or
purfued by fome other animal-
The Zorillos is of the fize c a weafel, not quite fo long, with
iedd;& ha r, lighter under the belly which is almoft grey. Two
B b 2 vfhitQ
I
' fi «i
»
170 JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
If
ii*
white lines extend the whole length of the back, forming, from
the neck to the tall, almoft an oval. The tail is very bufliy,
and the animal always keeps it raifed up as the fquirrel does.
When he finds hlmfelf purfued, or is provoked by any thing, he
immediately expels his urine, which infe£ts the air, to the ex-
tent of more than a mile and a half, with an almolt infupportable
fmell of carrion. We perceived this fmell two or three times
while we weie on board our frigate, though we were more than
four miles and a half diftant from land : it is true indeed, that
the wind blew from the land. M. Duclos, our captain, had
already told us of this, but we had not taken his word for it.
The faft was confirmed to us by the vicar of Montevideo, who
made a prefent to M. Duclos of a fur lining made with the fkins
of this animal fewed together. Thefe fkins have no bad fmell.
The Zorillos is perhaps the fame as the Stinkbingfem, or en-
fant du diable (devil's child) of Canada, the urine of which pro-
duces nearly the fame effect?. The Chincbe of the fouthern parts
of America alfo refembles much the Zorillos. -^v . ^ a ; ; , i
Another animal very common in thefe parts, and about Buenos
Ayrcs, is the Tatu-apara, which we call T^atou. the Spaniards
Armadillo^ and the Portuguefe Encubertado. As this animal is
very well known, 1 (hall not give any defcription of it. Ximenez
fftys, that the fcales of the Armadillo, reduced to powder and
taken to the quantity of one drachm in a decoilion of fage,
brings on a perfpiration fo falutary, that it cures the venereal dif-
eafe ; and that it throws out fplinters from all parts of the body :
and according to Monades, liv. xv. pag. 552, the fmall bones of
this animal's tail cure a deafnefs.
Notwithftanding the rilk there was in felling of any mer-
chandize at Montevideo, and the difficulties our people met
with in difembarking them, to prevent their being feized $
yet fevcral of our officers and many of the crew, who had
got together fome few things, in hopes of felhng them at the
French ifland, and at the Eaft Indies, where they thought they
were going, got rid of them, and were felling them every
day.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 171
day. Our (hip being the firft veflel which had put in at this
place fince the peace, our things fold very well. The guards
feized upon fome packets brought on Hiore w\th too little cau-
tion. They even threw yefterday into prifo:i two cockfwains,
on whom thefe packets were found. M. de Bougainville being
informed of this, exclaimed and ftormed very much againd thefe
cockfwains, faying, they deferved to be treated as they were.
He went to the officer, repeated the fame thing to him, and
deflred only that his uniform, which the prifoners had on ..^n
they were taken up, might be delivered ; that as for the K.en
they might keep them, to intimidate the reft, and that he hitn-
feif would put them in irons if they were releafed. By this
behaviour, M. de Bougainville perfuaded them that he did not
countenance this pradice. The parcels and the men were both
given upi and it was even defired that the men might be
excufed. From this circumftance, it was eafily found out that
our people had not taken proper meafures. A ferjeant having
complained on this occafion, that he had not received the value
of one real, though he had aflifted in bringing many parcels on
fhore, and that he had, as he faid, wore out a pair of fhocs in
going about the town to (hew fuch of our people as had any
thing to fell, into the proper houfes; this declaration made us
underftand that we ftiould not meet with fo many difficulties, if
we did but diftribute a few piafters among the officers and
guards. We began therefore by giving away a few pieces of
eight, a few (hiits, &c. and every body was very ready to let us
do as we pleafed, even the officer himfelf placed there on purpofe
to prevent any kind of trade. As we were fuppofed not to have
any Spanifti coin, and that French coin was not cursent in that
country, M. dc Bougainville alked and obtained leave to fell
fome butts of wine, brandy, oil, and fome other fuperflnous
goods he had, in order to pay for the flour, and the frcrti meat,
the Governor had always taken care to provide for us every day
at the port ; as well as for the oxen, cows, horfes and other
animals, he wanted to buy. It was now time to think of quit-
ting
ill
^1
I
mi
"liiitl
m
jyz
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
f
; 1
1^
ting Montevideo, in order to go to the place of our deftinationJ
We therefore provided ourfelves with every thing we thought
neceflary for this purpofe : the quantity of water, ilour, and
animals M. de Bougainville aiked for, excited the curiofity of
the Governor with regard to the defign of our voyage. AH the
crew, even the oiiicers themfelves, were perfedly ignorant as to
this point, and thought, as I faid before, that we were going to
the Eaft Indies. This report had been propagated, and M. de
Bougainville conBrmed it, by telling the Governor we were
going to the Indies, without fpecifying to which of them.
The trouble neceflfarily attending thefe preparations prevented
us from day to day from trying to make any accurate obfer-
vations with the inftrument or compafs of captain Maudillo, fo
that we did not think of fetching it from the Governor's till we
were juft preparing to fet fail. As it is of the greateft confe-
quence to take advantage of the firft favourable wind, efpecially
in the harbour of Rio de la Plata, where the anchorage is fo
dangerous ; and as we faw that this compafs could not be of
much ufe to us with regard to the longitude, M. de Bougainville'
lefolved to leave it with the Governor. He wrote to him by the
Captain of a fchooner, to defire that he would keep this inftrument,
and at his return into Spain • fend it to him in France. All
the reR of the time we f^aid in the harbour, was employed in
preparations for our voyage. Our frigates were carefully in-
ipe£ted, and every poflible precaution taken. Having brought
. . on
* The Governor had told us, he expe£)ed to go back into Europe towards the
end o( the )ear ; but we learned, on our arrival at Paris, that he would not quit
his government fo foon. M. de Grimaldi, the SpaniAi ambaflador in France,
afked M. de Bougainville feveral queftions, upon this Governor's behaviour to us.
M. de Bougainville having given by his anfwers a proper teftimony of the probity
of Dm Jofeph Joachim de Viana, and of his itridt obfervance of the duties of his
fiation ; the amb.ifl'ador confeiTcJ, that the Jefuits and their friends had fent
over to Madrid memorials agaiad him, to injure him- in the King's opinion,
that he might be recalled, ai d that they might have fome Governor devoted to
them in his ftead. M. de Grimaldi juAified Don de Viana to his court ; which
probably prevented the King frum recalling him as foon as he wilhed. The
public news-papers have informed us of this gentleman's being continued in the
fame government.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 17^
on board twelve cows, or heifers, fix mares, two colts, and two
Hungarian horfes, twelve goats or kids, eleven fows, and ono
boar, fourteen or fifteen fheep, two rams, and a great quantity
of fowls and ducks, we fet fail on Tuefday the i6th of January
1764.
At three in the morning, the wind, which for ten days paft had
been conftantly South Eafi, (hifted to the North. The gale being
moderate, we took this opportunity to unmoor. We heaved apeek
to our befl: bower anchor, ihipped the longboat and other boats, one
of which had landed the Sieur Sirandri Lieutenant, with a letter of
thanks to the Governor, from M. de Bougainville and the refl.
At nine o'clock we fet fail with the Sphinx and the Spanilh frigate
the St. Barbe, which we foon forereached, though (he was at leaft
two full leagues and a half ahead of us. We fleered half a
league S. E. 4 §. about as far S. E. then dire6ted our courfe
S. E. 4 E. in order to double a point, which ccnfifls of a chain
of rocks on the South Wefl of the fortrefs, extending near a
league out in the river. When we fet fail it blew a pretty frcfh
gale at North Wefl. The wind abated gradually and a calm
fucceeded ; infomuch that, at half an hour paft three in the
afternoon, the fhip making no way, we anchored in fix fathom
and a half water, muddy bottom. The Sphinx, together with
the St. Barbe, anchored at the diftance of a long mufket fhot
from our flern. During the calm we caught three very beautiful
butterflies, particularly one delineated :~ the plate *.
Our anchorage in the road of Montevideo was not abfolutely
bad ; but I am of opinion it would have been better higher
up in the bay. During the whole time that we remained there,
we were conftantly on the alarm, as well on account of the
Pdw/tVw, which almoft always rifes on a fudden, as of the South
Eaft and South Weft winds, which blow full into the mouth of
* I gave it the name of the parrot, becaufe the various colours of its wing*
exaiSlly lefemble thofe of the tnoft beautiful parrot of Brazil. Its body is of the
fined ?recn, ftreaked with red*
the
»74
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
r
lit. ,
the bay^ and occafion fo high a Tea as to make it impofllble to
leave any of our boats along-fide the veffel. We were every
night obliged to fhip them.
The iittle boat being only once forgot, it got loofe and had
like to have been loft, as I have before related. When you are
farther within the bay, you have nearly the fame depth of
water, the fame bottom, and are fheltered by the mountain on
one fide, and the town on the other.
We fet fail about eight in the evening, and continued our
courfe the next day without any remarkable occurrence.
On the nineteenth, near two o'clock in the afternoon, an extra^
ordinary kind of fi(h pafl'ed near the veflel. Wc had feen a
great many before ; but they being at too great a diftance from
the (hip, we had not been able to catch any of them. Per-
ceiving that they aflembled to-day round the fide of the frigate,
I got a failor to throw a bucket faftened to the end of a rope
into the fea, and he had the good fortune to take one. Our
mariners give them the name of Ga/ere^ or fea-ncttle. It is a
kind, of bladder, which may be ranked under the fame genus
with what the naturalifts call Heloturia^ which, without any re-
femblance either of a plant or a fifli, are neverthelefs, really
poflefled of life, and tranfpott themfelves like animals from place
to place with a motion peculiar to themfelves, independently of
the afliftance of wind and waves on which you fee thefe blad-
ders carried like fmall veftels. Any one who did not obfervc
this appearance of a bladder with a nice and judicious eye,
would take it for a bubble of air floating on the furface and
driven by the waves and winds. But the failor who had caught
it having brought it to me, I had fufiicient time to examine it.
I obferved in it a periftaltic motion, fuch as anatomifts afcribe
to the inteftines and ftomach. I was juft on the point of taking
it out of the bucket with my hand, when M. Duclos our cap-
tain caught hold of my arm, and bid me take care left I ftiould
foon have reafon to repent of fo doing, by the acute pains i
iliould feel in every part of my hand, which (liould happen to
come
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS; 175
come in contafl with the filaments, of a violet blue colour at-
tached to this bladder. I therefore contented myfelf with view-
ing this fea-nettle and taking a (ketch of it.
The captain's obfervation was verified the fame day. A cabbin-
boy having caught another of thefe fifh, had the imprudence to
take hold of it with his hand. The filaments, twifled themfelves
round it. The moment after, he began to cry out that he felt
a fmarting and very painful heat on all the back of the hand,
and the wrift. He (hook it inmiediately to get rid of the fi(h }
but it was now too late. His cries haflened us to his aflliftance }
he wept, and ftamped, complaining that his hand feemed to be
in a fire. It was bathed in oil ; a comprefs dipt in the fame
liquid was applied to it, but the pain ftiU continued more than
two hours i when it went oflF gradually.
The fea-nettle is an oblong bladder, flattened underneath,
rounded in its circumference, and blunted as it were at its extre-
mities ; from whence proceed thofe filaments, the touch of which
occafions fo much pain. One of thefe extremities is more
rounded than the other ; which is rather lengthened. The part
which forms the bafe or refting point of this bladder is plaited
about the edges. The whole is a membrane of a very delicate
firuflure, tranfparent, and nearly of the fame figure as thole
half globules, which rife on the furface of the water in fummer
ihowers, efpecially when they fall in large drops. It is always
empty, but diftended like a football. This membrane has fibres,
fome of which are circular, others longitudinal, by means of
which the periftaltic motion is carried on.
At the longed of its extremities it contains a fmall quantity
of the cleareft water, which is prevented from communicating
with the reft of the cavity by a membranous partition. The
fibre which paflfes over the back, from the fore to the hind part,
is raifed, fcolloped at the edges, plaited like a beautiful tuft, of
a lively green, blue, and purple colour, extended in the form
of a fail. It lowers, elevates or fhifts, as it were to fet itfelf for
the wind. From the two extremities of the plait, proceed fome
C c filaments
m
HI?
^01
nil
"I
^^ JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
..filaments of different lengths, and of the fame colour with thU
kind of fail : two of them are very 0iort, and as thick as a large
quill; thefc afterwards branch out into feveral others of lei^r
. thickne^, but much longer ; and thefe again into others, ftill
, longer and fmaller, to the number of eight in all. They are
.about a foot long} but not^all of equal length. Thefe firings,
interwoven with each other, referable a net whofe mafhes are of
different fi/es. They have a kind of articulation, formed by
. fmall circular rings, in which one may likewife obferve a con-
tradiie motion. Thefe filaments refembl^ loofe taffels, compofed
of firings of a iky cok>ur tin^ured with purple, and of a green-
ifh cafl, nearly tranfparent, and of dificrent lengths, the edges
.of which appear to be indented, and alternately intermixed with
grey violet and flame colour.
The la^gefl &a-netties I havefeen wereabout ^ven inche»long
at their under part, and &ve in height. It would be very difii-
' cult to determine precifely the colour of this extraordinary fifh.
The bladder is as dear and transparent as thefinefl chryflal; but
ks edges, back and Iqgs may be faid to contain the colours of the
,1 rainbow, or of the iiame of fulphur. We law a great number
• in our paffage, particularly in the ftreight which forms the
..ifland of St. Catheiine, at Bra^lj and I believe they are com-
^mon in thefe latitudes. If the bare touch of this animal caufes
' fb much pain, what can we think its effeft mufl be in the bodies-.
«f fiili or other animals who feed upon it ? It has this furpriz-
-jing quality, fays Father Labat, that it taints and poifons the
flefh of fifhes without occafioning their death.-— This is pretty
nearly the effe£l of the fruit of the manchineel-tree.
On the 20th we perceived that the currents ran to the S.S.W.
•which confirms the obfervation in the account of Admiral An-
ion's voyage. The tides carried us 30 min. Southward; and
there is reafon to believe that their courfe is to the S.S.W. agree-
able to the bearing of the coaft.
On Sunday the 2 2d in the morning the wind, which the day
{►efore had blown very frefli till four in the afternoon, grew calm^
, . with
^
- I -
m
*1JU svw.,,. m
bo/'
CC 2
a very
m
m
i
"■ ^
1
Hawkins's MyiiDEN-LANn;
caUed a/ierrvnrds ,
Falkland's Islands,
thmby iheFrencliJSLES Noiri'IJLLES Sc IslESMalOUINES ,
{>y t/itJ)iiU/iMOVA JiKLOIA,
ufu/ lutely by the Spaniardf o^' Jiuenoi-aynw ,
YSLyiS nji ALlOALLANKS.
Uy'ilHniiaii JeiTeiys.Oeographfr,
to the Kino .
r.x.
a*
^
t4
Tfif tVnrUrru/uxr/ StdaMiru Sfveit Zea^iua tv tAf Eu
/,'. Variti/n'ii ,
in i/t>'4 .
KJih'jltnu Kt'ci- iiAat TourdeHifrY
SO
Cape .Dolphin
1 r^,&Jm
,;*:•«; ('affH^l
]Xi-'; f'ck
T.X.
before had blown very fiefli till four in the afternoon, grew calm^
> with
\i
^JMm*h
\. i
I i
I ^
!
. •-•
-*r-
TO THE ivl ALO V /NE LAN S.
1
with fair weather and a fine Tea. We w fiNM Dadins, feiM*
fowls which are found common in almo 1 latitoAn, «id (brae
large birds called ^dranta-buej/ot, r«8 well a^ fotuj King-Jijherst
'*'lwhicK our maiiners call likewiie Puans. 'Tis faid that when
thele lad appear, there feldom fails to be foul weather, and often
Aorms, either on that or the next day.
- In fad, the S. 3.W. wind wc had, fuon after blew with via*
Jbnce: the f«a ran high, the W£atba' .hCQanie foggy, and it
rained a httle at intervals. '4>«'i ^ ' ' .'-'■*
In the evening of the »3d we faw fcveral birds, and fome very
long and large and well formed beds of fi(hes fry, of a reddiUt
cafl:. Mod of them extended beyond our fight in length, and
fome were about a hundred feet in breadth.
On the 24th we faw eight or ten whales, a great number of
birds, and a kind of iea.-weed, which our mariners called Bau-
On the 25th the wind blew very frefti from the N.W. till
five in the evening. The rolling of the fhip was fo conHant
and violent, that we loft a goat, two (heep, and three cows.
Several others fell fick, as well aa the horfes we took on board
at Montevideo. ^oi^ ^*-
Iht weather grew dark and rauiy. At fix o'clock the wind
rather abated^ and ftiifted to the Weft, then to the Weft South
Weft;, to the South, a gentle gale. The lea likewife gradually
fuhAded.
On the 26th we obferved that the tides turned towards the
Noith. We again met with feveral birds, and fome iea-grafs.
The fea ftill continued much agitated till feven in the evening.
We were obliged to kill one cow and a goat, taken ill with the
rolling of the ftiip. The fca foon after grew calm, and conti-
nued fo almoft the whole night. In the evening of the 27th we
faw a quantity of birds, among which were feveral king-fiftiers.
1 he wind blew with great violence, and the weather became dull
and foggy. This lafted almoft the whole night, and deftroyed
C c a. a very
'i^
■'■*•/
178
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
t very fine ftallion, whom we were obliged to throw overboard,
as well as a goat and a fheep.
On Saturday the 28th we faw a whale, two fea-wolves, and
two penguins i in the afternoon there appeared great numbers of
ofpreys, and fea-cobs, and we met with fome fea-grafs» with long
leaves. On Sunday the 29th, about three in the afternoon, fome
pretty large fiHies appeared near the furface of the water. Seve-
ral of our mariners who have been ufed to fiHi at Newfoundland,
aflured us, that they were flock-filh.
On the 3 1 (I, at fix in the morning, we delcried land at the dif-
tance of about fix leagues. We took this land for iflands. We
had then a Arong gale, which abating^about eleven, we (leered
E. S. E. till noon, when we made the fouthermoft point of
land, bearing S. E. five degrees E. about a league diftant. The
moft eadcrn point bore £. -^ S. E. dillance two leagues, and all
thcfe lands appeared to be iflands.
The figure of thefe iflands, which form a triangle, as the
Sebald iflands are faid to do, and the idea we entertained of our
being near thefe, induced us at firft to believe that thefe three
iflands we faw were a6tually the Sebaldes.
On this account, according to our obfervations at noon, we
found them placed in Belin's French chart thirty leagues too far
to the weft ; and we were the more deceived in our obfervation,
on account of its agreeing with Father Feuillee's and with a ma-
nufcript chart which M. de Choifeul gave to M. de Bougainville,
before we left Paris. See thefe iflands in the plate as they ap-
peared to us at tvvro leagues diflance, the Cape lying Eaft-South-
Eaft. . ,.
This chart of M. de Bougainville's extends the eaftern verges
of the Malouine iflands to $7 degrees 15 minutes longitude;
and Father Feuillce places the fame extremity of thefe iflands in
57=45 : the latitude agrees alfo pretty exaflly. M. Belin fixes
it at 62 degrees. We fhall be better able to determine which of
the two is in the right when we land, as we intend to do«
• . la
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
179
In the afternoon we had a frelh gale at N. W. At we kept
coading al»ng the (hore we founded at three o'clock, at 45
fathoms, a flinty bottom. At four we founded at 40 fathotns,
flinty bottom mixed with broken fhells, we were then half a league
diftant from two flat iflands, which at fird view appeared to be
covered with fmall copfe, but thefe were only tall bulrufhes with
flat and large leaves called corn-flags, as we difcovered afterwards
on landing > the coaft being quite full of thefe corn-flags, as it
now appeared to us. Sounded again, and found a rocky bottom
tt twenty-four fathom.
In th,e afternoon of the 31ft, we coafled along the /hore, at the
diflance of about a league and fometimes only half a league, in
order to obferve it with greater advantage. We founded from
time to time at thirty-five fathom depth, grey fandy bottom.
The lands are of a moderate height from the fea, with emi-
nences, fome behind others i a proof that this is either the con-
tinent, or the largefl; of the iflands. Almod all the fliores were
covered with bulrufhes which looked like fmall trees. This apr
pearance is occafioned by the corn-flags growing each of them
about two feet and a half high, and afterwards fhooting forth a
tuft of green leaves nearly of the fame height. This we had an
opportunity of obferving more particularly when we landed. We
faw no wood, and at this diflance the foil of the country appeared
parched and dry; perhaps the heat of fummer might have
withered the grafs.
At three o'clock we faw a fmall ifland two leagues wide of the
coaft. It nearly refembled in figure that on which the Fort de la
Concbh near St. Malo is built. M. Bougainville gave it the name
of the Tower of BifTy *. At five, we difcovered a Cape, and a fmali
ifland, refembling Cape Frehel, fituated four leagues from St. Mala
This Cape feemed to terminate the land to the Eaft.
Oa
1i;
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'If
* This is the entrance of the ftreight which divides the ifland into two parts*
the eaAern and the weAern. This ftieight runs from Nortb to South.
' '♦J
i8o
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
It
On the firfl; of February, we perceived another Cape and a
fmall ifland alrnofl: fimilau to thofe which reminded us of Cape
Frehel ; and after that, another fmall one intirely covered with
birds. At noon, the wind blowing ftrong with fqualls and rain,
caufed fo violent a rolling of the (hip, that our cattle fufiered
much from it. At laft we determined to kill feveral fick cows,
fearing they (hould die, and we (hould be obliged to throw them
overboard, as we had the fine bull we had brought with us from
St. Catherine's iiland, as well as fome goats and feveral (beep.
At fix in the evening the weather being then fine, with a gentle
breeze, we determined to dsnd out the fifhing-boat which was man-
ned for that purpofe. Meffrs. Don at and Le Roy the lieutenant,
went on board with a fufiicient number of feamen, all well armed.
They were fent on ihore to cut grafs for our cattle, who began
to be in want of it. We were then about two leagues from the
point which apj^eared woody. We were becalmed till about eight
o'clock. The tide drove us towards the fhore upon a flioal of
rocks. In this embarralfing fituation, from which it was impof-
fiWe to extricate ourfelves for want of wind, we founded with a
view of caft'ing anchor, if the bottom fhould be good. But the
bottom proving rocky at between eighteen and twenty fathom, our
perplexity increafed, and with the more reafon as the tide had
already carried us towards the flioal, which lined a pretty large
€re«k, and we were fcarce half a quarter 06 a league from it.
The Sphinx laboured under the fame difficulty, and we were
already contriving means to fave our lives in cafe^ we fhould be
fhipwreckcd upon thefe rocks, which the mariners call tbe Car'.
pmten ; becaufe a fhip which has the misfortune to run aground
here, is foon dafljed to pieces. Fortunately, about eight o'clock,
a very faint breeze blew from the fliore ; and our officers, equally
attentive and able to avail themfclves of the fmalleft advantage,
ordered the working of the ihip fo (kilfully, that we got clear of
the fliore. The fliip's crew were fo fully fenfible of the danger we
were in, that in the mort tempeftuous weather, and even during
the dorm we fufFcred near the Maldonnades, they never worked
the
' '1
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. i8j
the (hip with fomuch alacrity and diligence. It was a fine fight
to fee every one at his poft, holding in his hand the ropes he was
to manage : all, in an attitude, in which was piftured anxiety and
fisar mixed with hope; all, obferving the moll; profound filence,
their «yes fioced upon the captain, and their ears attentive to catch
the .'firft word of command : the two captains and the lieutenants,
and all the Ihip's company, employed in looking, fome on the fide
of the fliip towards the fea. others towards the land, to obferve
if any one could perceive the fmallefi: breeze rifing, and ruffling
the furface of the water which was almoll as fmooth as glafs.
One turned his cheek, another held his hand, and a third wet-
tmg his, extended it towards the quarter from which they ima-
gined the wind began to blow in order to perceive the lead:
motion. At length the long wiflied'for breeze arofe, but blew
very; faintly ; fear gave place to joy and fatisfadion, and to pre-
vent our being again involved in the fame difficulties, we fleered
away North Ealt ^ Eaft, five degrees Eaft.
About eleven our fifliing-boat returned loaded with greens, and
was taken on board. Mtflis. Dunat and Le Roy informed us,
that thty had feen at land, about the diftance of a muflcet-fiiot
from the place they were in, an animal of a terrible appearance
and aftoniihing fize lying upon thegrafs; his head and raane
refembling a lien's, and his vi hole body covered with hair, of a
dulky red as long as a goat's. This animal perceiving them, raifed
himfelf upon his fore-feet, eyed them a moment, and then lay
down again ; having afterwards fired at a buftard, which they
killed, the enormous animal raifed himfelf a fecond time, eyed
them as before without changing his fituaiion, and then lay-
down again. According to their account, this animal feemed to
be as large as two oxen, and twelve or fourteen feet in length.
They had a mind to fire at him, but they were terrified, and.
durft not fire for fear of wounding hi.ii llightly and hazarding
their lives j or, according to their own account, they were un-
willing to lofe time, as it was late, and they were defirous of.
letiuning on bpard,
2. On.
lirl
i
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n
182
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
On the third about noon we difcovered an opening of a bay *,
the entrance of which appeared fo fine, that we went into it full
fail, as into a well-known and commodious harbour. We an-
chored about three leagues within the bay, which appeared to
extend at leaft as many leagues beyond us. At the farthefl: ex-
tremity we difcovered larger and fmaller iflands, where the fiOi-
ing boat founded at four, five, fix fathoms and more, in a mud-
dy bottom. The Sieur Donat havuig been fent thither immedi-
ately after we came to anchor, informed us, on his return, at
ten in the evening, that it was every where at leaft between eight
and ten fathom, and between feven and eight to the Eaft of the
ifland, with a bottom of muddy fand throughout, which fecured
us a retreat in cafe of bad weather at fea.
This bay, the plan and figure of which is given in the plate,
is capable of containing at leaft a thoufand veflels, and as many
more to the weft of the large and fmall iflands, which are fhel-
tered from all winds, and are, as our mariners fay, more fafe
than in the harbour of Breft.
As foon as we had dined, we fent out the yawl and long-boat,
and Meflrs. de Bougainville, Nerville, Belcourt, 1' Huillier, Donat,
Sirandre and myfelf, landed on the fouth fide of the bay. As we
were going to Aiore, a prodigious number of black and white birds,
of the fame fpecies, croflcd in large flocks, no more than five or
fix feet above our heads. We killed fome of them. Thofe which
fell into the fea wounded, only dived when we attempted to take
them up. Before we landed, we (hot buftards, geefe and ducks,
which did not fly away when we approached them i but walked
near us, as if they had been tame.
While we were at a diftance from the land, its appearance de-
ceived us. We expected to find the face of the country dry and
parched, but on fetting foot upon it, we found it entirely cover-
ed with herbage, or a kind of hay, a foot, or a foot and half
high,
* See the entrance of this bay in the plate. It is Htuated on the eaftern fide of
the Malouine iflands ; and may be fccn at the diftance of three leagues.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
183
If
high, reaching even to the tops of the hills, which'we had much
ado to climb, on account of this hay obftrufling our paflage.
We afcended in companies, while fome took feparate routs
for fhooting, both upon the hills, and along the coaft. We were
much fatigued in climbing thefe hills, there being no road or
path through this herbage, which is probably coeval with the
foil. - • • _
We walked up to the knees in this hay; and the foil, which
appears to be a dark brown, is formed into a mould by the annual
decay of the hay, and rifes with a fpring under your feet, owing
to the roots which are intangled with it. Hence it is evident,
that one cannot walk for any time over fuch a path without being
fatigued. But we were luckily provided with fome fmall bottles
of brandy, and fome fea-bifcuit, which were of great fervice, As
we fhould otherwife have fuffered from the intenfe heat.
Here we met with fome green hillocks, raifed fometimes more
tlian three feet from the furface. I examined one of thefe with
attention, and found that a refinous gum oozed from it, which
is white at firft while it is foft, and of an amber colour when it
hardens. I gathered fome pieces of it, which I perceived had at
leaft as ftrong an aromatic fmell as frankincenfe : but could not
determine at that time the cxaft refemblance this gum bears to
other gums or refms which have hitherto been difcovered. I
brought away near the weight of half a drachm in grains or drops,
fome of the fize of a round pea, others of that of a kidney bean.
When I returned on board, I fhewed them to M. de Bougainville
and our two furgeons. I held fome of it on the point of a knife
in the flame of a candle ; it burnt like the fineft refin, emitting
an agreeable fmell, and leaving behind it a blackifli oil, which
did not burn, but grew hard and brittle when it was cold. I
attempted to diflblve this oil in common water, but without ef-
fect: from which I concluded, that it would be very proper to
make an excellent varnifli. Having mentioned it the next day
to M. Frontgoufle, furgeon of the Sphinx, he went on fliore, and
Jaaving coUeded fome of this gum, conjectured fronj its fmell and
D d tafte
I'M
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(*
4
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II
-II
►'
184
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
tafte tliat it was gum ammoniac. On comparing thefe, we founJ
they agreed in tafte and fmell, and were reduced to the fame fub-
ftance after burning. The fmpll is retained fa ftrongly on the fin-
gers, that thp' I walhed my hand? more than pnce with fca-water^
I could not get rid of it all th^t day and the next. This refmous
gum only dilfolves partly in fpirit of wine, which it tinges with
an amber colour. The rcfiduum becomes fpongy and burns as>
it did before it was difTolved : the third reiiduum does not dif-
folve in common water. Aqua-rfortis has no efle^ upon it.
Thefe hillocks are formed by a fingle plant, from which proceed
fmall fpongy ftalks gradually dropping their leaves like the palm-
tree. Thefe leaves are tripartite, as may be fcea in the plate>
where the plant is reprefented in its natural fize. They are of
the thicknef? of thofe of purflain, but of a fine green, ranged
very clofe to eacl\ other, difpofed in a circle, and forming a cavity
in the center which is fcarce difcernible.* This is a kind of very
flat funnel, the infide of which is lined with thefe leaves placed
clofe one above another, imbricate like thofe of an artichoke^
See the figure of it in the plate. "
From the center and edges of thefe leaves, when they are
bruifed or only fcratched,'or when the refinous juice is toc» plenti-
ful in them, this refinous gum, which congeals in the air, is pro-
duced. On cutting, fcraping or even rubbing the furface, there
iflues a kind of cream which is white and vifcous, and ropes
between the fingers flicking faft to them like glue. I have givea
it the name of the "varnijh plant.
The infide of thefe hillocks is foimetl into a vault, fupported
by ftalks -ad branches, whofe leaves, having no air, are brown
and withered. Other plants fometimes (hoot forth on the
infide of this vault, penetrate through the hillock, and rife
above it. Thefe hillocks, when they are not broken, are fuffi-
ciently firm, not only to fupport a perfon fitting upon them, but
v.alkiug over them. The vault, howevei-, is eafily broken through,
by ftamping upon it witji fome force, and it is eafy to tear off
large pieces w;th one's hands. The root and the ftalks when
5 broken^
TO THE MALOUir^E ISLANDS; 185
broken, yield the fame white refin, which flows out like the
white juice or milk of the plant called Tithymalus, which I
fhall fpeak of hereafter.
In the evening our fportfmen returned loaded with geefe, buf-
tardsj dueks, teals, and a black and white bird already mention-
ed. I had feparated from my companions, and wandered alone
along the coaft a league beyond the place where the boat had
landed. I fliot fome ducks four or five feet from the fliore. As
I did not care to go into the water, I imprudently drew them
to me with the end of my piece, "fhe plertty of game engaged
me to load again without recolleding that the barrel might
have taken water. The powder was fo wet that it would, not
take fire : and having no fcrew, I rdfolved to repair to the boat.
1 had fcarce advariced twenty fteps, before I perceived in the grafs
a path eight or nine inches brbad, very much worn, which
ran parallel to the fhore at ten or twelve feet diftance from the
fea. I then imagined, that the ifland was inhabited, if not by
mettj at leaft by quadrupeds which frequented that fpot. But as
I did not know what thefe animals were, they might poflibly be
of the favage kind j and I was apprehenfive left I ftiould meet
with fome of them in my way. Unattended as I was, without
any other defence than a mufket now become ufelefs, 1 was ra-
ther anxious for rtiy fafety. I fixed my bayonet to the end of my
piece, and purfued ray journey in this tra£t, being defirou.s to
know where it terminated. At the diftance of about two hundred
fteps frdm the place where I' eht ^1 1
•Hi
i86
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
If
obliged us to tlirow into the fea a great part of what we had pro-
cured in the day.
On Saturday the 4th at fix in the morning we got the yawV
and fifliing-boat ready to make fome difcoveries relative to the
depth of the bay, which appeared to us to be a large river when
we faw it from the heights the evening before.
Meff. de Bougainville, de Belcourt, de St. Simon, THuillier,
and Alexander Guyot, embarked in the yawl, well armed, and
furniflied with provifions for four or five days, and a t€;it to ufe
on the fliore. The failors too were armed with muikets, cut-
lafles and bayonets. Their defign was to proceed to the northern
part, and to find out whether it was covered with wood. Mefl".
Donat and Arcouet, in the fi(hing-boat, were to make difcoveries-
on the fouthern part, an idea having been entertained that the
bottom of the bay was divided into two branches which lofl;
themfelves in the vallies. ..,;». >> 1 ■ . f .
MelT. Alexander Guyot and Arcouet returned on board the
fame evening in the yawl, having left M. Donat with the fifli-
ing-boat to )oin M. de Bougainville and his aflbciates. M.
Guyot brought fome buftards, three young fea-wolves with hair,
of a brownilh grey, and five fea-lioneflcs. They were about
feven feet long, and three and a half in circumference, though:
their in teftines were drawn. Thefe gentlemen had landed on a
fmall ifland, where they found a prodigious number of thefc
animals, and killed eight or nine hundred o^ them with flicks.
No other weapon is neceflary on thefe occafions. A fingle,
blow with a bludgeon, three feet or three feet and a half long,,
aimed full at the nofe of thefe animals, knocks them down, and
kills them on the fpot.
This is not altogether the cafe with the fea-lions : their fize is.
prodigious. Our gentlemen encountered two of them for a long,
time, with the fame weapons, without being able to overcome
them. They lodged three balls in the throat of one while
he opened his mouth to defend himfelf, and three mufket fljot
in his body. The blood gulhed from the wounds like, wine
from.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
187
from a tap. However he crawled into the water and dif-
appeared. A failor attacked the other, and engaged him for
a long time, ftiiking him on the head with a bludgeon, with-
out being able to knock him down : the failor fell down very
near his antagonift, but had the dexterity to recover himfelf at
the inftant the lion was going to gorge him. Had he once
feized him, the man would infallibly have been lofl : the animal
would have carried him into the water as they ufually do their
prey, and there feafted upon him. In his retreat to the iea this
animal feized a penguin and devoured him inftantaneoufly.
There are feveral kinds of fea wolves and lions f all which I
have feen. The former, when at their full fize, are from ten to
twenty feet in length, and upwards j and from eight to fifteen in
circumference. Their Ikin is covered with hair of a clear tanr
colour, or fallow like a hind's, and as fhort as that of a cow;
The head is (haped like a niaftifF's, fuppofing the lips of the
upper jaw were divided under the nofe like thofe of a lion of
the foreft, and were not pendulous ; and that the ears were
cropped clofe to the head, I (hall defcribe them more fully after-
wards.
The other fpecies, which is not fo large, has the fame ap-
pearance J the fnout is rather rounder arid fliorter. Inftead of
fore paws, it has two fins confining of articulations, covered,,
as with a glove without fingers, with a very hard fkin or mem-
brane of a dark grey colour. Thefe articulations are not diftin-
guiftiable on the outfde, and can only be difcovered by difleding;
the fin. The two hinder feet have vifible articulations like the;
fingers of the hand, five in number, and of unequal length,
Thefe fingers from the firft to the third articulation are joined'
by the membrane : which afterwards divides itfelf, and runs
along the fide of each finger, in the fame manner as the mem-
brane in the feet of a diver or water-fowl, and extends much'
beyond eacli finger. Its feet are fituated almoft at the extremity
of the body ; where they form a kind of fplit tail when they lie
down or are not in motion. Each toe is armed with a cl-aw
; ^ which
t
ly
1 1!; -:;
f
188
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
which is not fliarp, but rather projecting, and of o. black colour.
See the figure in the plate.
Both kinds are bearded like tigers, and have thick (trait hairs
direftly over their eyes by way of eyebrows. The female ap-
peared to have a longer and more graceful neck than the male i
and had dugs.
In thefe animals the fat, which is white and flabby, is fo
redundant, that it is leveral inches thick between the ikin and
the flefli. They are full of blood, which, when they are deeply
wounded, guflies out with as much force as when you orir.n a
vein in a fat perfon.
The animal which Mefl*. Donat and le Roy faw when they
went on fliore for greens, was probably a fea-lion, of which I
(hall fpeak afterwards i thougli they defcribed it with hanging
ears, as long in proportion as thofe of a fpaniel.
Such is the form and figure of the fca->wolves which we faw
in fome little iflands in the bay where we anchored. Thofe
whofe d^fcription and fliape admiral Anfon has given are fea-
wolves of the larger kind. He calls them fea-lions improperly
for the reafon hereafter afligned. See the plate.
Thefe animals are all amphibbus^ and moll commonly pafs
the night and part of the day on fhore. When you pierce the
thickets of corn-flags, in which they make their retreats and
where they form a kind of apartment, you almod always find
them lying afleep on the dry leaves of thofe plants. When they
are in the water, they every now and then raife their head and
part of their neck above the fi^rface, and remain fome time in
this pofition, as if attentive to what is going forward. They
make a noife much refembling the roaring of a lion : the young
ones feem to utter a hollow found, fometimes bleating like Iheep,
fometimes lowing like calves. The larger and the fmaller kinds
move heavily, and fcem rather to drag themfelves along than to
walk, but with as much expedition as their bulk will allow.
They live upon grafs, fiOi, and other animals when they come
in their way. On the little illaad where our gentlemen killed
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TO THE MALOUINR ISLANDS. iif
fcx miny of (hefe antmalt, one of the females khed a penguin
at the inO<.nt it fe^ by a ina(ket-(hot. The (^a nie«wolf carried
it into the water; and devoured it fo entirely in a moment
that nothing remained but a flip of ftin ibatlng on the fui'Cace*
M. le Roy had, the day before, brought one of theft pengUina
on board, which was at lealb two ftetand a hjitf high. Wt 0lallr
give the defcription and reprefentatiovy of thif hereafter.
On the ittide day, while fbme of t|ie company were employed
in ihootiflg, M. Duclos our captaiii'and M, Cbenard de fa Gv-
raudaie went to the top of a kind of hilt toward the Souths
whore they planted a croft of iprood about rhfee feet high on the
ibmmit between two rocks, and ealjbi' this eminence thie meufi'
■ On Sunday morning, tlie 5th inifaint, the weathci* being pretty
$ne, with a toler&ble breeae, the loi^bpat was fent on fhore» to
get bay and water, which we did conveniently on theibuthern.
coafl, to the S..S. W. of the fhip, where there Teemed to be a
kind of fountain. Thefe people returned on board with ouir
fportfmen, who brought a quantity of game of the fame kind^
z&-^? "t«>
M. de la Gyraudais dined on board the Eagle, and a Teaman
brought a pretty large dry root which he found on the northern
coaft. It feemed to be a fpecies of the cedar.
All thefe fpecimens of wood determined us to make an accu-
rate fearch on the South Weft coaft. With this view M. de
Bougainville, M. de Belcourt, and the Sieur Donat la Garde, lieu-
tenant of our (hip, embarked in the boat. They took in pro-
vifions for three weeks, and being all well armed, directed their
courfe to the South Eaft.
On the 8th, the fons of M. Duclos Guyot our captain, hap-
pening to throw fome hooks at the ftern out of the windows of
the cabbin, caught a large quantity of fifh of a mod delicate
flavour, though not more than eight or nine inches long. Their
eyes were red, their gills edged w'th gold, and their fins of the
fame colour ; their fkin fmooth as that of a tench. I do not
know their name.
On Thurfday the 9th, at four in the morning, the wind being
northerly, we got every thing in leadinefs to penetrate farther
into the bay. When we were under fail the wind fliilted to the-
North Weft, which obliged us to make feveral tacks, founding
all the while. We conftantly found between twelve and fifteen
fathom, the bottom of muddy fand : at eight, the wirid veering
to the Weft and blowing frefli, we anchored in a green, fmooth,
flimy bottom, at fifteen fathom.
On the loth, the wind continued to blow frefh from N. to
N. W. the weather was hazy, with fliowers of rain and hail.
E e We
m
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193
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
' 1
I' M.*'!
We fent out our longboat however to the peninfula on the
N. W. of us, to fee whether we could find pafture for our
cattle. Here we killed a great deal of game. I faw many fea-
wolves of the lelfer kind, with a fmooth Ikin of a dark hi own.
They had five claws on their fore fins which ferved initead of
feet, but were not divided into diftind: toes. On our return we
propofed to lend our cattle on fliore, not only for the fake of
recovering them from the very feeble ftate to which the toffing
of the veflel had reduced them, but to free ourfelves from the
necelTity of employing a boat and men every day to procure
fodder for them. j.fji5i;, ;ri d^iilw,,V-'*.f -;? HV'-i ''^-'-^\ u u<-;c,:,:d
On the I ith, the wind hlevr too violently all the day W. S. W»
to permit us to execute our defign. At fix in the evening, the
yawl belonging to the Sphinx came on board, to inform us, that
their longboat had jufl then brought back to their veflel, M. de
St. Sision and the red of his companions } who acquainted us
afterwards, that on their return they were three days on the
fhore oppofite to us; and had fired feveral times to give it
notice. We heard no firing, or at leaft none but what
thought proceeded from our Ihooting parties, which fometimes
returned very Ir^te} though always loaded with as many bu^aids^
teals, ducks, fnipes, curlews, &c. as they could carry,
r The gentlemen of the Sphinx farther added, that the Tup-
pofed trees which we thought we difcovered on a fmall ifland
when we pafled near the verge of the current, were nothing more
than a plant of the buUrufii kind, with flat leaves, known to
our feamen by the name of glajeux ; that the hillocks formed
by their roots afforded a retreat for the fea-wolves, three of
which they killed as big and lung as our boat, befides feveral
others. They likewife killed a kind of wild dog, much re-
fembling a fox of the larger fize : fome of the company ima-
gined it was a grey lynx. M. Martin, lieutenant of the Sphinx,
had killed two of them the fame day.
Thefe gentlemen met with no tree ; but difcovered a large and
fine bay fome leagues diiiant from that in which we anchored.
Ott
t
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 193
On Sunday the lath, I faid mafs at five in the morning, for
the quicker difpatch of the longboat intended for forage. M.
I'Huillier went in the yawl to draw a plan of the bay where
we anchored, and feveral others fet out with him on a (hootiog
party. . ■
The wind being W. S. W. and the weather fine, the Sphinx's
longboat put to fea on Monday the J3th, with three men to
make oil of the fat of the fea-wolves, which had been killed on
a fmall ifland fome days before. Thefe animals may with equal
propriety be called porpoifes ; fince, befides their having fat or
bacon feveral inches thick between their ikin and their flefh, they
often grunt like hogs, and wallow in the fame manner in the
dirt and mire, where I have feen twenty of them lying down,
particularly of the fpecies defcribed by the author of admiral
Anfon's voyage, under the denomination of lions.
At the fame time our fmall boat was difpatched to another
neighbouring ifland in fearch of penguins, which are as nume-
rous as the ants in an ant-hill. Some hours after, it returned
loaded with a hundred and fixty of thefe birds without wings,
fome of which we faired. At feven in the morning we dif-
covered our fifliing-boat, at the fouthern point of the entrance
into the bay. We immediately hoifl:ed our colours, and the
Sphinx followed our example.
At noon, the Sphinx's longboat brought on board our veflel
the Sieur Donat la Garde, and M. de Bougainville's fervant, who
we thought were ftill in the fiftiing-boat in which they em-
barked. The Sieur Donat informed us, that M. de Bougainville
and M. He Belcourt, had been ever fince yefterday afternoon on
the fouthern coaft of the continent which encompaffes the bay.
Wc immediately fent out our longboat, in which M. de Nerville,
M. rHnillicr, and niyfelf embarked, in qnefl of them. We
found them exceedingly harafTed and fatigued, with the expe-
dition they had juft made on foot, through a country where
there was no beaten track. We recondufted them on board,
together with a feaman who had accompanied them. Being
E e 2 prefled
ipj
»94
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
prefled with hunger, they as it were devoufcd the dinner we p«"c«>
pared for them, which however did not prevent thf r^ from pL/-
ing t^ Ir part well at luppcr, though it was ferved up il.on after.
They informed us, that they had traverfed the fouth-eaft coaft,
tin they came to as fine a bay as that we now anchored in, about
eight leagues diftant by fea, and about four by land. Here
they quitted their boat, and went by land to the fouth-weH; part
of the ifland, and particularly obferved that the coaft ran W. N.
W. which is not probable. For there is great reafon to believe
that our veflel v.'as then ftationed on the eaftern point of the
ifiand, the point taken notice of by Tailors in their journals } who,
as well as others, were cerlainly deceived themfelves when they
reported their having feen foaie large fine trees growing upon very
beautiful hills. M> de Boug£iinville told us, that in the bay where
the boat was left, he found upon the (bore three trees which
were very dry, and one of them, almoft as large as a wine hog-
fhead. As they met with none in all the parts of the country
they had traverfed, there is reafon to believe that thefe trees had.
been tranfported tiiither from the Terra del Fuego, or from the
neighbourhood, by the waves and currents which run towards
the Eaft, the wind too ufually blowing from the S. W. and W.
M. de Belcourt, M. de Bougainville's fervant, and a feaman, were
attacked, if it may be called fo, by a wild dog of the fpecies I have
before mentioned. This is perhaps the only animal that is fa-
vage of the quadruped kind in the Malouine lilands : it is pro-
bable too, that it may not have been fierce, and that it only ap-
proached them out of curiofity becaufe it had never feen any of
the human fpecies. The birds did not avoid us, but flocked about
us as if they were familiar and tame. We have not hitherto feeu
any kind of reptiles, nor any venomous animal.
The whole night of the fifteenth was rainy, and very tempeftu-
ous. At half paft eleven, the thunder fell at two cables length
from us, and knocked down Le Sieur Guyot our fecond captain,
v.!io commanded the quarter deck. He received no inconveni-
ence from this accident, except being frightened. -<,
Our
' i
"■.I*"
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 195
Our longboat, which had been fent out Hnce the morning to
carry provifions to thofe who were employed in wafliing the
crews linen, could not return, on account of a contrary wind
which arofe, and blew with violence from the S. S. W.
On the 1 6th, about fix in the morning, the wind fell, and the
weather became hazy. Some fqualls came on afterwards, ac-
companied with rain and hail. The finiing-boat was however
fent out to get forage. Our longboat t^turned about nine
o'clock, dnd the other at three :n the afternoon.
On Friday the 17th, at five in the morning, the wind blowing
frefh from the South South-Eaft, Meflrs. de Bougainville, de
Nerville, de Belcourt, Donat, de la Garde and myfelf, embarked
in the cutter, with a tent and bedding, to eftablilh a fettlement
on the land, and to form a camp on a fmali eminence almod at
the bottom of the bay.
As foon as we landed, we fet about pitching our tent on a fpot
which we judged to be the mod commodious, at the diflance of
a mufket fhot from the fea. The little hill ran from Eaft to
Weft. The place where we fixed our eftablifhment is open to
the North, which makes the South of the country with refpeft
to the equator. Below us, at about a piftol (hot from the tent,
ran a rivulet of fweet water very palatable to drink. In the
front of the tent was a fmall eminence like that on the declivity
of which the tent was pitched. Some paces from thence we
dug a hole in the ground for a kitchen ; where, for want of oth?r
fuel, we made ufe of broom. We likewife tried the large green
tufts cf the refinous gum-(hrub I have mentioned. They keep
up and continue a fire extremely well j but when greeri are
not proper for dreffing viiStuals. . . t-
As I faw the inconvenience attending the want of wood in a
country where we intended to eftablifti a colony, I endeavoured
to hit upon fome expedient to obviate it, at leaft till the govern-
ment could take meafures for difpatching fome pinks and
fchooncrs to be Rationed in this country, and to make voyages to
the Terra del Fuego, to bring wood for fuel as well as for build-
, ' " ing
196
JOURNAL OP MY VOYAGE
ing and carpenter's work. I thought we might pofTibly find fomc
coal, or at Icc turf. Accordingly I equipped myfelf with a
mattock, and proceeded on my fearch. Having obferved, that
the banks of the rivulet were rather marfhy, I conceived, that,
as the country had never been cultivated, the grafs which grew
there, might in procefs of time have formed a mafs of earth in-
termixed with roots and decayed leaves, which would exa£^ly
furnifh us with the fort of turf I was in queft of. In h£t, after
a few ftrokes with the mattock, I di [covered a turf of a reddifh caOy
which was owing to its not being arrived at the maturity requifite
to give i. perfeftion. When I had gone twenty paces up the
rivulet, and had found, on digging, fome turf with the properties
I wanted, I carried two or three fquares of it to M. de Bougain-
ville, and acquainted him with the difcovery. He was fo anxious
left it fliould not prove the right kind of turf, that he declared it
his opinion that it was not. It was fhewn to every body who
landed with us, and thofe who were acquainted with turf, were
of my opinion. M. de Bougainville ftill in fufpence, wifhing
that it might be the true foit, and yet fearing the contrary, re-
folved to n.ake a trial of it. Some dozen of thefe fquares were
dug up and ranged round the fire. Our impatience prompt-
ed us to throw a few into the fire, when we had the fatisfadion
to find, that as foon as the moifture of the turf was exhale^, it
burnt ar well as the beft turf produced in France and other
countries. We then fent three or four feamen to cut a quantity,
and to pile it in the ullial manner to dry, and be ready for any
ufe we might think proper to make of it. ' f
When ibme piles of this turf were raifed, the Sieur Donat
recollected that he had feen in company with M. rHuillier along
the coalt, a black fibrous earth which was tolerably dry, and
might anfwer the fame i>urpore. But having fotgot the place,
Mefli'S. de Bougainville, de Ncrville, I'Huiilicr and myfelf, went
in fearch of it that day, but without fuccefs.
While we were thus engaged in forming our fettlement, mea-
furcs were taken on board to penetrate farther into the bay, with
2 a visw
4vi
m-
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 197
ft view both to be nearer us, and to provide for the fecurity of
our frigates, ^'r-'-^a,' 'if^i!,.,,"« <,:■;. "■<^rf'-''''-t -'■ ■ , k-: --^ -J'
i Accordingly, as foon as we were gone, the two vefTels fet fail»
and by proper manoeuvres came at lad to anchor immediately
under Pengu s ifland, or the Burnt ifland, and within the nar-
row channel or entrance which one mudpafs to get into the creek>
on the borders of which we had fixed our eftabliihment. Near the
place of anchorage there is a fmali ifland, which has fince been
called Cooper's iiland ; our people having reforted thither to re-
pair the caflcs belonging to the (hip.
On Saturday the 1 7th, in the morning, we put into the great
boat the two Acadian families we had brought with us to make
a fettlement on this iiland, and to people it. At nine in the
morning they landed with all their clothes, furniture and necef-
fary utenfiis, provifions, and fome tents to accommodate fuch of
the crew as were to remain on fhore to aflift in eftablifliing the
fettlement.
Marks of the new anchorage. The northern point of the
burnt ifland, which concealed the mouth of the bay from our
fight, bore Eaft North Eaft, three degrees North. The center
of the round ifland North Eaft, three degrees Eaft. The w ern
point of the ifland abreaft of us, N. N. E. five degrees Eaft. The
higheft mountain at the bottom of the bay, South .Weft, five
degrees Weft. The Sphinx was anchored about a cable and a
half length nearer the mouth of the bay, than our frigate.
Till this time eight of us, Meffis. de Bougainville, de Nerville>
de Belcourt, I'Huillier, Donat, and myfelf, with two fervants.
belonging to Melfrs. de Bougainville and Nerville, had lain in
one tent. We placed our matreflTes upon hay and broom, to fe-
cure ourfelves from the damp. Though we were very much
crouded, eleven of us lay there on the night from the i8th to
the 19th, our company being enlarged by the arrival of M. de
St. Simon, Lieutenant of foot, Mr. Bale, fecond Surgeon, and a
Pilot, who were not provided with a tent to fleep in.
Oa
1^'
•i;i.
ii*;
198
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
■ On Sunday the 19th we landed a great quantity of proviflons
and tents, and every one difpofed of himfelf as well as lie could.
We had notwithftanding no fewer than twelve in our tent on
Sunday night. Finding ourfelves fo mtich crouded we refolved
the next day to pitch fome additional tents, and to feparate
from each other. I was the only perfon that remained with
Meflrs. de Bougainville and Nerville.
While fome were employed in fixing the tents, others went a
fhooting, and returned laden with game of the feveral forts I have
defcribed. M. de Bougainville, having in purfuit of game wan-
dered a little way from his companions, difcovered another
creek, formed by the fame bay, near three quarters of a league
from our encampment. All along the bankj of it he found a
lamellated earth of a brown colour almofl; approaching to black,
which was undoubtedly the fame which Meflrs. I'Huillier and
Don&t had feen fome days before. M. de Bougainville having
fliewn me a piece he had brought from the place, I pronounced
it excellent for the fame purpofes as turf. We made a trial
of it, and it fucceeded extremely well. Thofe who intended to
ilay on thefe idand^, with a view cf eftablilhing a new colony,
were tranfported with joy at the difcovery, efpecially as this turf
is at prefent dry and ready for burning, and as, according to M.
de Bougainville's account, it is found in fuch abundance that the
boats may be loaded with it every day and brought to the fettle-
ment.
Walking along the coafl: in the afternoon, I gathered feveral
(hells, Patellar, Cociilex, Magellanic mufdes, &c. among the roots
of that fea-grafs, called by our feamen Baudreu, which had been
lately thrown on fhore from the bottom of the fea.
- We this day landed the horfes, calves, cows, fheep and hogs,
which we had taken on board at Montevideo. They were all
fo harafled by fatigue and ficknefs that a mare and her foal
died on the beach a few hours after they were fet on fliore.
On the 21(1 we were much afraid that we Hiould not be able
^o lave any of our horfes, cows or fheep, confidering their mi-
5 ferable
V <. '.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 199
ferable and weak ftate when they were landed ; as they all feemed
to be either lame or languifliing. We left them on (bore to
take their chance, and thofe which could not (land upon their
feet, we dragged upon the grafs, which was at a little didance.
Having fent Tome perfons this morning to fee whether they were
dead or alive, they were furprifed to find neither horf^s nor
Hieep, and the cows and calves difperfed about the country.
They were unable to conceive, that, confidering their fickly ftatc
the evening before, they could in one night have acquired fufH-
cient ftrength to run about the fields : and it was apprehended
that they might be devoured by the fea-wolves, or fbme wild
bea{l.« unknown to us; but the carcaflfes of the mare and foal
which dill remained on the beach, removed this fufpicion.
SirKe Sunday afternoon we were employed in chufing a pro-
per place for building rn apartment for the reception of the
parties who were to remain on this ifland. The fame eminence
on which the tents were pitched was judged to be the moil: con-
venient, M. I'Huillier, Engineer and Geographer to the King,
marked out the foundation, according to a plan he had commu-
nicated to Mcff. de Bougainville and de Nerville. From the
Monday morning every perfon on fliore took tiie mattock or the
(pade to dig the foundation.
I had feen the firft plan ; feveral alterations in which having
been made in confequencc of my remonftrances, I thought my-
felf equally at liberty to give my opinion on the choice of the
ground. I obferved that in heavy rains, or when the fnow
melted, the great quantity of water which would come down
from the hill would overflow the building, and if it did not
inftantly demolifli it, would at length efFeft its ruin by fapping
the foundation; the declivity being raiher fteejtin this place.
M. I'Huillier propofed to obviate this inconvenience by cutting
a trench above to receive and carry off the water j but this did
not appear to me a fuificient expedient, as the trench could not
(lop the impetuofity of the torrent ; befules that the water which
would be detained in it, by gradually oozing through the earth,
F f would
seo
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
1 1 '^
til
would caufe a dampnefs in the apartments very prejudicial to the
healtli of the inhabitants, their provisions and furniture. My
opinion Teemed at firft to be difregarded : M. I'Huillier defent to which he gave the preference. But on mature delibert-
tion he fixed upon another iituation on the fame hail, at a
n^ufket-fhot diftance, where there was a very gentle declivity.
The workmen were immediately fet to dig the fbundattons. Tho
fAilois belonging to the two frigates were etni^oyed in this ler»
vice ; M. de Bougainville paying them for their day's work« ex-
dufive of their feamen's wages.
On Wcdnefday the 2 ad there were only ten men left on
board the Eagle ; all the reft were employed in the building.
On the 23d fome proviiions ai)d utenfils were brought on
(here from the veflel { and our fportfmcn furniflied an ample
fupply for the fubfiftence of both the fhips companies.
M. de St. Simon, one of the keeneft of our fportfmen, meet-
ing with a fea-wolf larger than any we had yet fccn, near the
crtck where we difcxjvercd the turf, killed it inftantly by a lucky
(hot. On his return he related his adventure at fupper, aifur-
ing us that this fea-wolf was fo thick and Ibng that our boat
coiiid not contain it. Every body thought the account exagge-
rated. But from the defcription he gave of its figure, I began
to think that it might probably be ot the fpccies mentioned in
Atlmiral Anfon's voyage by the name oi fea-titns.
Full of this idea, and being curious to know the truth of the
matter, 1 determined to go to the place the next day, being the
24th, with M. de St. Simon and two others.
When we came within Ibmething more than a thoufand yards
di(lance of this animal, it appeared like a finall hill, rifmg from
the level of the ground where it lay. M. de St. Simon added to
the deception of our fight, by pointing out this pretended hill,
telling us that the animal lay dead near it j fo that we did not
obferve the fea-wolf till we were near enough to lee it diftindtly.
On mealuiing ue found it nineteen feet and fome inches long.
7 ^Ve
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 201
We could not at that time meafure its bulk, being unable to
raife or turn it in order to pafs a cord round it.
After we had thoroughly examined it, M. de St. Simon led
us to the borders of another creek, thirty paces from this fpot,
where there was a great quantity of cornflags. On coming to
the place, he fired at a fea-wolf, no bigger than a very large
calf) and killed it. We immediately heard on all fides, from
among thefe coniflags, cries refembling the grunting of hogs, the
bellowing of bulls, the roaring of lions, lucceeded by a found
like the blowing of the largeft pipes of an organ. We could
not help being rather alarmed; but recolle6ting immediately
that thefe different cries muft proceed from thefe animals, and
knowing that we might approach them without danger, taking
care only to keep off about the dillance of their length ; we en-
tered among thefe cornflags. M. de St. Simon fired at a fea-wolf
which was neareft to him. The fhot entered an inch above his
eye, the animal fell under the ftroke, and died almoft inflantly.
A fountain of blood iiTued from the orifice, and fpouted to the
diflance of at leaft half a foot. More than thirty pints ran out
in lefs than half a quarter of an hour.
Thirty of thefe large fea-wolves were lying two and fome-
times three in the fame hole or pit, full of mud and dirt, where
they wallowed like hogs. M. de St. Simon fingled out fuch as
lay on dry ground, as it was more eafy to remove them when
dead, and lefs troublefome to Ikin them, in order to get their
greafe or lard for making oil. He killed eleven of them fuc-
celTively. Two others, rather larger than the refV, being only
wounded, though they had already loft twenty { its of blood,
had ftrength enough left to get out of their holes, and efcaped
to fen, whefe we foon loft fight of them. The reft which were
not wounded remained quietly in their retreats, without fhewing
any figns of fear or rage. Only one of thofe which were mor-
tally wounded, in his laft ftruggles feized fome of the cornflags
that furrounded him, tore them in pieces with his teeth, and
F f 2 fcattered
t;
i
«02 JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
r
h)
M
jr
i> »
" r
fcattered them about i but without beUowing or making any
•An Acadian who accompanied us fkinned a young Tea- wolf,
the fird that was killed, as well as two other fmall ones which
wci e killed after the largeft. Thefc are of the fame fpecies with
that which wc took for a hillock. They are exactly the fame
monflrous animals, as are defcribed by the author of admiral
Anfon's voyage, under the article of the ifland of Juan Fer-
nandes, fituated at a fmall diftance from the continent of Chili.
The whole of his relation is pretty near the truth, except that
in thefe fea-wolves, which he calls lionst the two feet are fur-
nldied with toes having diftin£t articulations, but connected by
a membrane or black pellicle, and that thefe toes areiu-med with
claws; a circumfla - wanting in the figure inferted in the looth-
page of that admiral's voyage.
The leaft of thefe large fca- wolves which were killed by Nt
de Sr. Simon, was from fifteen to fixteen feet in length.
When they fee any one approach them, they ufually raifc
thcmfclves upon their jiaws or fins as defcribed in the plate.
Tliey open their mouth wide enough to admit eafily a- ball of a
foot diameter ; and keep it open in this manner, at the fame
time filling a kind of trunk they have -;pon their noflrils with
wind. This trtmk is formed by the (kin of the nofe- itfclf j
wliicii fubfides and remains empty when they ceafe to bellow,
or do not fill it with their breath. Their head is fhaped like
that of a Ihe-Iion without ears. • • K-'- - ' * ..
Among tire numbers that were killed, I obferved feveral which
had no trunk, the Ikin of their nofe had no wrinkles, and their
fniHit aukd rather in a iharper point. Perhaps thefe were the
fcinalts. AH thofe we Ikinncd were males : but fix were left
>ying upon their bellies in the mire without being turned ; and
ihele were jufl the number we faw without trunks. If thefe
were really the females, there fliould be much lefs difference in
tize between them and tho males than is reprefented by the au-
. thor
ifi
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. S03
thor of the voyage juft now quoted } for the difference is not
even apparent. 'i';- •» if. c- .,irur:n." i:'«n' rr\' r ti /
- While thefe animals kept their mouths open, two young
people diverted themfelves with throwing large ftones into them,
which they fwallowed as we would a Itraw berry. They move
their bodies with fome difficulty, but can turn their head and
neck to the . ight or left with tolerable agility confidering their
bulk. It would be dangerous to come within their reach } as
they could bite a man in two with a fingle bite. They have the
iinefl eyes imaginable, and there is no fiercencfs in their coun-
tenance : I remarked that v;hen they Arere expiring their eyes
changed colour, and their cryftalline lens became of an adml«
rable green. Some of thsfe animals were white, others tawny i
the major part of the colour of the beaver, and fome of a light
fawn colour.
On Saturday the 25th, M; d Bougainville propofed at brculv-
faft to both land and fea of^ ;rs, to undertake the erefting of
a fort upon the rifinp" ground forming the hill, on which the
habitation or place'c: i^iidence was buiit for the colonics, who
were to remain on me iiland. We all unanimoufly agreed to
cred it with our own hands, and to complete it without the
afljftance of the refl of the Ihip's company*
As foon as breakfaft was over, M. I'Huillier- and M. de Bou^
gainville went to choofe the ground, and M, rHoillier afljfled
by two pilots marked it out upon the Ipot.
In tlie mean time fome perfons were difpatched in- fearch of
tools for the execution of our defign } others went a (hooting to
procure provifions for the company. We had hitherto killed
more g.-^Tve than was fufRcient for the fubfillcnce of the crews
bdongii ' the two frigates. We had more than once con-
iidered it as .1 lingular circumftance that we Hiould come with
an intent to form a fettkment in a defert and unknown country,
having no other provifion than bread, wine, and brandy ; and
yet free from any care for the next day, in full confidence that
the game we met with would furnifli a fufficient fubfiftence for
V
204
JOURNAL OT MY VOYAGE
r
p >
ni
It '
r.
r
ili!
above a hundred and twenty perfons, who Iiad landed and w«ni
encamped under the tent. So far from experiencing any want
hitherto, we had made fo plentiful a proviHon, that there was
no probability of our being reduced during the ftay we propofed
to make. Neverthelels each mels, confining of feven perfont^
was allowed one buftard and a gooie,, or one goofe and two
ducks, or two geeie, or two budarda and fome diving water"*
fowl, which we call Uecfics^ or NigautSt and which I (hall (peak
-of in the fequel. j
About three in the afternoon, we met at the place where the
fort was marked out, which we agreed to call Fort du ttfff% or
Fort Royal. Every body fet to work with (b much cheerfulnefs,
and fuch incredible ardor, that we had the very fame evening
dug part of the ditch fix feet broad and one deep. M. de Bou-«
gainville's example animated us all.
On Sunday the 26th, both the (hips companies aflembled at
the habitation to hear mafs. There remained on board the
Eagle only three men and two officers, one of whom had re*
ceived a hurt in his leg. They all dined on (hore, and the boat
did not return to the (hip till evening, . when the wind which
had all day blown with fome violence, was abated.
On Monday and Tuefday, the longboats took in ballad; for
the Sphinx. Some poultry, beams, planks, fitc. were carried on
(hore. The works were continued at the building and the fort*
In ray walks, I now and then took notice of the foil of the
adjacent country. I found a pretty large quantity of fpar and
quartz ; which is an indication of mines. I likewife met with
Come earth of a v
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 205
the taAe and ftyptic quality of this mineral was fo ftrong, that
it made mc fpit for a full quarter of an hour.
On Thurfday the firft of March the weather which was hazy»
with fqualls. of wind and fome rain, retarded our works; but
we got ballad for the two frigates. M. de Bougainville came to
a refolution that the Sphinx on her return home fhould touch
at Guadeloupr, to difpofe of ^ome of the merchandize we had
on board $ and that our fr'gate, after we had made feme farther
difcoveries of the land, fhould return to France, inftead of going
to the ifland Mauritius, which was intended if the Malouine
iHands hzd not been fit for eftablifhing a commodious and ad*^
vantageous fettlement.
On the fecond of March, at nine in the morning, we landed
four pieces of cannon out of the ten which the Eagle was to
furnilh for the defence of the fort we were ere6iing. Four more
will be added from on board the Sphinx ; two brafs field pieces,
which were bought at St. Malo's two days before our departure,,
and fix pedei-eroes.
As we had determined to raife a pyramid in form of an
obdiik in the center of the fort, I propofed to place a bud of
Lewis tlie fifteenth upon the top, and undertook to execute it in
tcita cotta. I had feen fome grey-coloured earth on the banks
of a creek, which I thought vei^ fit for this purpofe. At ten
o'clock I let out with our captain M. Duclos, to fearch for it,
and to obferve what progrefs was made in extratling oil from
the greafe or lard of the large fea-wolves, which we had killed
feveral days ago, and left upon the fix)t. We went thither ia«
the fi(hing-boat.
Though they had been killed fo long and were expofed. to the
heat of the fun, which had melted a great part of the fat, the-
people employed in extrafling this oil, ailured us, that every
iea-wolf yielded at leaft two hogftieads and a half, and would
•liave afforded more than four, if the experiment had been
made fooner. . .
'■'■'. i ..■. < I wanted
It
1
f.i'^.'.
so6
JOURNAL OP MY VOYAGE
r
I <
w
r
Kr
m
fl wanted to get the two largeft teeth drawn from the jaw,"
but it was not pradicable. In breaking the jaw*bone with a
hatchet, the Aroke unfortunately fell upon the teeth fo as
to fplit them. They are folid and full only towards the
pomt : the whole of what is inferted into the jaw-bone being
hollow. I at firfl intended to have di(Ie£ted the whole head, but
the enormous fize of it obliged me to relinquiHi my defign« on
account of the difficulty attending the carriage.
I employed the remainder of the time in feeking (hells among
the fea-weeds, lately thrown on fhore by the waves. There
were fcarce any other than fome Neritae* with flripes of
different colours.
The bottom of the (hell is compofed of the (ineft mother of
pearl. I likewife met with fome cochleae and Magellanic, as
well as common mufcles. Some of the laft were between five
and (ix inches long and two broad, at their greateft diameter.
At fix in the evening we loaded the fifhing.boat with the pot-
ter's earth and turf. Finding that it was aground, owing to its
being overloaded, we lightened it to fet it afloat. We were de-
ceived by the ebb ; becaufe the Tea, which is not very regular in
thefe bays, except at the time of the new or full moon, did riot
rife fo high as we expe(Sled. It was near an hour before the
boat could be fet afloat i and that it might not be overloaded,
M. Duclos and myfeif determined to return by land, and to
keep along the coaft. We marched almoft a league over flints,
ftones, and rocks, which line this coaft. The boatmen had
orders to come to take us in at the entrance of the bay, where
we told them we (hould wait for them. We reached the place
with great difficulty, the weather being hazy and the wind very
high. Having waited for them three quarters of an hour in
vain, and while it was very dark, we concluded that the tide,
ivhich was running down, and the high wind, which was con-
trary, had induced the boatmen to bear away for the vefTcU.
We rtfolved therefore to finifh our expedition by land, by going
lound the bay, which is at leaft tluee quarters of a league, when
we
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS;
207
we lieard the boat coming towards us. We hailed her and (he
anfwered. After attempting in vain to put afliore at two or
three places, they came near enough at laft to give us a fair
opportunity of jumping into the boat. We intended only to
o'ofs over to the other fide of the mouth of the creek, and to
perform the reft of our journey along the fliore on foot. But
tlie fteerfman alluring us that the fea ftill rofe, and that the tide
was in our favour ; perfuaded us that we fhould eafily get the
better of the contrary wind, and that they would engage to land
us in a fhort time near our habitation. Our captain fufFered
himfelf to be prevailed upon, and we got into the mouth of the
bay J but we had fcarce rowed ten or twelve yards when the
wind blew with exceflive violence, the waves ran high, and the
ebb of the fea joined to a contrary wind was fo troublefome,
that we could not get the better of it. Notwithftanding all our
efforts we could fcarce proceed twenty yards. The fea grew
terrible ; every wave broke with violence againft the boati and
partly beat into it, fo that we were already overflowed. Tired
with ftruggling in vain againft the waves, and finding ourfelves
in danger of running aground upon the ftones which lay along
the coaft, to which the waves and the wind drove us in fpite
of all our efforts, M. Duclos faid we muft return to the mouth
of the bay, and there run aground. In lefs than three minutes,
in fpite of the oars and rudder, we found ourfelves driven to-
wards the fliore at the diftance of about four fathoms from land.
The fea which was then extremely furious, was near dafliing
the boat in pieces, and we ourfelves were in ^ianger. Our cap-
tain told us we muft jump into the water, and fet the example
himfelf. I followed him at the inflant that a large wa. was
juft breakmg againft the boat, and oveiv, helmed it entirely : ; "
fnock it gave made me fall into the water when I ws"^ '..i
coming to the ground. I recovered myfelf fo foon, tha: I only
got wet on my left fide, and had my boots filled with water. It
was fcarce more than two feet deep. I immediately fleered my
courfe towards our habitation, and told M. Duclos our captain,
G g that
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208
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
that I was going to give tidings of him, while he was engaged
in getting the boat afloat in order to fecure it. When I arrived
at the habitation, I found feveral of our company, who were
under apprehenfions on our account. Finding tiie weather fo
bad, fome of them imagined that we had put ourfelves on board
one of the frigates, to avoid the danger of ftrugghng againll
the wind and angry waves in a boat : others fancied that the
darknefs had compelled us to land, and that we might have
loft our way. It was near ten, arid they ftill waited fupper
for us. While I changed my clothes, the fupper was ferved up,
and I played my part at it handfomely. M. Duclos arrived half
an hour after me, and went to-bed without taking any other
refrefliment than a glafs of wine.
We imagined till now, that the creeks and the bay which
formed the port of ou» habitation, were not well ftocked with
fifli : that the fea-wolves and the water-fowl, which were very
numerous, deftroyed the fifh for food, and allowed it no time
to grow large. M. de la Gyraudais yefterday convinced us of
the contrary, by bringing us fome filh which made part of our
fupper. Being a fliooting at the extremity of a creek about
a league from our encampment, he came to the mouth of a fmali
river when the fea was at ebb j where, as he told us, he caught
with his hands a dozen fifli, which were left aground upon
the gravel, and were endeavouring to get back to fea. The
I'malleft of them was about a foot long. They were fome of
them dreft au courboulllon, others fried. Every body found them
excellent.
On Friday morning MelT. Duclos, de la Gyraudais, Baflc,
M. Duclos's youngeft fon, and myself, being defii ous of making
the moft of this difcovery, without communicating our defign to
the reft, got ready a net of the fize of only three fathoms and
a half, and repaired to the fifliing place. We placed two catch
nets at the fame place, when the fea ebbed, and caught thirty
filh and upwards, the leaft of which weighed near a pound and
6 a half
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 209
a half. We afterwards caft a third net at the moutli of a fmall
river two hundred paces from thence, and caught a dozen of the
fame fort of fifli.
Encouraged by this fuccefs, on Saturday the third inltant we
returned to our fifhing. But the Tea having ebbed, we did not
catch a fingle fifli. We then concluded that this fifli came into
frefli water with the tide, and went back again with the ebb.
Having obferved that numbers efcaped through the holes of our
net which was a bad one, or jumped over it, we determined to
go a fifliing with the feamen the next day, when the high tide
occafioned by the new moon was expefled. Accordingly M. Du-
clos went on board, and ordered the fean to be got ready.
M. le Roy carried it in the boat to the entrance of the creek in
the morning, and came to acquaint us with it. A party of us,
to the number of fixteen, fct out immediately after dinner, with
Meflrs. de Bougainville and de Nerville at our head. On carting
the fean only once, we took more than five hundred large filhes,
and thoufands of others half a foot long j three-fourths of which
we threw into the fea. We kept but one fort of the fmall ones
called by the Spaniards Pajes^ and by our mariners Gras dos.
This fifli is almoft tranfparent and of a mofl: exquifite delicacy.
It is excellent when fried, and not inferior to the eel pout.
The net was fo full, that notwithftanding the joint efforts of
fixteen perfons, it was with the utmoft difficulty imaginable that
we dragged it on fhore. Several fifh jumped over it, and a great
number efcaped both at the extremities, which could not be
brought together, and through the holes tliat were in the net.
However we loaded the boat, which could not reach our encamp-
ment till the next day. The fifli were dillributed in great plenty
for two days, an^ong the crews belonging to tlic two frigates :
they were eaten with variety of drefling ; and that the reft might
not be vvafled, we faked a barrel full of them.
This fifh refcmbles in (hape what is called Meuille in Saint-
ongc. It weighs four pounds and an half upon an average.
4i
g 2
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210
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
Tlie fame day, juft as fupper was over, M. Martin lieutenant
of the Sphinx came loaded with game. While he was a (hooting,
he went to difcover the fource ot tht river at the mouth of
which we nad caught fo much fiih. He huormed us, that there
was a vaft bay, three or four It agues nortli-yvtft of our encamp-
nieni:, of which he was not able :;j difo^ver ciuher the en-
tranc " or the bottom from anv of th? he!";ht'i ; l ut this bay
appeared to hi-n to run at leai: eight or len lea^tv^s withii; the
land, .md that a. differeni dii1a'.,« cs he faw rive:*s and iflands.
We were charai xl with this Uifcovery, and rcfolvcd to pay at-
tention to it.. '
The great quantry of llfli wc had caught induced us to make
li fecund tiial. On Mon lay the 5th > wc rtitumcd to the place,
hut whether the fifli ha u tak«ii th; alar.\, or the fea was not
fii^n to a })ioper height, we caught only fome fmall fifhes and a
dozen large ones.
While we were engaged in fifhing, others went a fliooting, and
tooiv a furvey of the newly tli (covered bay. As they were doubt-
leis iefs fatigued than M. Martin, they found the journey not fo
long, and declared it fhorter by two leagues. Tliis determined
M. de Bougainville and feverai others to go thither the Wednef-
day following, being Alh-Wednefday.
The whole company being returned about noon, and the fort,
on which the officers alone had been employed, being finifhed,
M. de Bougainville propofed to mount the cannon which were
upon their lea-carriages at the bottom of the hill. We imme-
diately fet about this bufinefs. Accordingly we laid planks upon
the ground, to make what is called a bridge, to prevent the
wheels of the carriages from finking into the earth. By the
mere ftrength of our hands, without tlie aOii^ance of any inftru-
ments or engines except crows, levers and ropes, we managed to
mount one cannon, notwithllanding the hcighl and fteep afcent
of the hill. When we had planted it in its proi:er place, it being
almoft: time to conclude our day's work, we loaded and fiied this
cannon by way of fignal.' We then cried fcven times Five le Rci !
which
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. an
which exclamation was repeated by the workmen employed in
building the apartments.
Ever fince we fet about building our habitation, we fired Z'
field. piece with a pound ball, and rang a bell at five every morn-
ing, and half part feven every evening, to fummon the men to
their work, and give them notice when to leave off. At eight'
we rang to breakfaft, and at one to dinner. Befides thefe meals
M. de Bougainville now and then ordered them an allowance of
brandy by way of gratuity. Thus the work was aftually in.
as great forwardnefs as if two hundred workmen had been em-
ployed. . -«>
While we were thus bufy on fhore, the few hands which were
on board the frigates were by no means idle. They landed fome-
thing every day for the ufe of the encampment, as ordnance,
balls, provifions, utenfils, &c.
On the 6th ne began to flow our ballafl of flints, and in the.
courfe of the afternoon mounted feven cannon in the fame
manner as the firfl. It mufl be confefled, that feamen may
challenge all the world in point of dexterity in moving great
weights.
When this operation was finifhed, I ordered fome bafkets to
be filled with potter's clay mixed with argil for want of fand
proper for the purpofe, and contrived fo as to go on board the
next day, that I might work at the King's buft without interrup-'
tion, which I found to be impraclicable on fliore, where I fliould
have been obliged to do it in our tent, into which fomebody waa
entering every quarter of an hour.
On Shrove Tuefday, at feven in the morning, I got into the boat
in order to return on board the Eagle. I took up my quarters again
in my cabbin; after dinner, Ibegan to model the bufl in M. de
Bougainville's, and being unprovided with a piece of iron to
fupport the earth upon the die, I fupplied its place with a cylin-
der of wood. The head was already roughly Iketched the fame
evening.
I; de.-
.^'1
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212
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
i dedicated the 8th wholly to the finifhing of the firft (ketch,
which was already reduced to a form. Two or three officers
who faw it In this ftate, encouraged me to finifli the buft, and I
was in hopes of fucceeding in my attempt.
Animated with this expectation, I weht to work at fix in the
morning on the 9th, and was not a little difconcerted to fee cre-
vices and cracks in the forehead and feveral other places, though
the earth was very well mixed. M. Guyot and M. Bafle coming
a quarter of an hour after, were almoft as much chagrined as
myfelf, to find that the earth was not proper for the ufe I de-
fig ned to make of it.
I aflced M. Guyot, if he had not feen on the coaft a fine fand,
which when mixed with this earth might remedy its defefts.
They fet out for the encampment an hour after, and gave M.
de Bougainville an account of the difficulties 1 met with from the
bad quality of this earth.
I thought I had nothing to do but to make another attempt
with frefli earth mixed with fand, but M. de Bougainville, ap-
prehenfive that a new trial might prove abortive, determin fl to
iubftitute a Flower de Luce in the room of this buft. M. Guyot
returned on board to dinner, and communicated this refolution
to me. I then defiiled from my undertaking ; and pafied the
evening upon the Burnt ifland in company with M. Mauclair,
where we killed ten buflards : he had killed fixteen the day be-
fore. While we were in queft of game, two of our officers
amufed themfelves with fifiiing with the hook from the cabbin
windows, and cauglit fifh enough to furnifli a difli for three
fijcceffive meals. The angle-rod would fupply an equal quantity
every day, if the line was but thrown one hour before the meal.
Thefc filh are of three kinds. The firft refembles a pike in
fiiape, the flcfti as it were tranfparert, with a ftripe of blue, one
line in width, which runs from the gi^'s to the tail between two
yellow ftripcs. The Spaniards of Chili call them Rovalos. The
fecond fpecies may be ranked in the clafs of the eel pouts, called by
fome Loaches. The head of that here mentioned is flat and much
larger
^-T^ff.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 21^
larger than the eel pouts in France. The third fpecies is likewife
cxquifite, and has yellow ftripes round the gills, as if orpiment
or gum had been rubbed upon it with a pencil.
Thefe three forts of fifh, which were the only ones we
caught on board, are no more than between nine and ten inches
long ; they are ufually from fix to feven. But all of them are
excellent, particularly that which has the head, and nearly the
figure of a pike. They bite fo freely, that they are caught as
foon as you throw out your line. This fifli was one refource,.
when the weather did not permit us to go a Hiooting.
On the 10th I returned to the Burnt ifland, in hopes of gather-
ing feme L^pas or Patellae, but the fea was too high j M. Duclos's
youngeft fon and myfelf, after killing four wild ducks and three
Becficsy returned on board at five o'clock.
The wild gander is of a dazzling white; its bill is fhort and
black like a buftard's, and its feet are yellow. The bill and feet
of the female refemble thofe of the male, but the feathers upon
t'ts back are grey. The border of the white feathers which cover
the neck and breaft is black, and forms a fpot which takes the
round fhape of the feather. The wings of both refemble thofe
of the buftard j and have likewife a hard knob like a horn at
the articulation of the pin? n. After ftripping the large feathers
from ihe body of the female, there appeared a grey down ex-
tren\ely fine and very thick. 1 own of the male is at lead
as beautiful as that of a fwan. fiiey would both make beautiful
mufi^s *.
The teal of this country are much fuperior in beauty to th •^-^
of Europe. Their bills and feet are blue, their wings green a'
gold, and the reft of their bodies much more fliining and beauti-
ful than thofe of the Guinea hens. I Ikinned one of them,
and having prefervcd the head and feet, and fluffed the coat with
fine
• Their beauty induced feveral of our officers to order a great number of thefe
geefe and buftards to be flcinned with u view of carrying them to France } but for
want of proper care, they were moft of them loft. Mine fiiared the fame fate for
want of room to flow them in my cabbin.
ll
214
JOURNAL OF MY. VOYAGE
fine mofs, placed it in its natural attitude. I made a prefent of
it to a viriuoro of St. Malo. I likcwifc brought to France and
depofited in the cabinet of natural hillory, in the Abbey of St.
Germain dcs Pres at Paris, the head and feet of a large water-
fo'v' jt fi"'* carnivorous kind, which I have mentioned under the
name ol Quebranta-huefTos. I have given its figure, on account
or the fingularity of its bill.
It would have been a defirable circumftance to have poflcfled
the art of preferving the eyes of thefc animals in their natural
(late. Diamonds and rubies can by no means equal the Hi c, the
beauty and t';? 1'jJt.v, s-T the* eyes of a certain fpecics of water-
fowl or diver, which is frequently feen on the fea-fliore.
The pupil is furrpunded with a circle of the fineP- vermilllon
or carmine. The head is black, but the feathers from the eye
to the back of the head are of a fliining white mixed with fome
Areaks of b ick. ^ •, ♦ , ',
In thefe iflands there are likewifc prodigious numbers of fmall
eagles or brown hawks, of the fize of the largell of our rocks j
but the wings of which when extended, were at leaft three feet
acrofs. The large feathers of the wings are of a bi ight yellow,
mixed with brown in tranfverfe ftripes. There is like wife a kind
of eagle, of the fize and colour of a ii.rkey hen, whii red, or
yellow. In this kind of eagle, at the bottom of the bill here is
a (kin of a very fine red, ftrewed witii pretty long black hairs.
When this bird is dead, the red colour fades, and the Ikin < ' - jes
to a very pale rofe colour. Tts talons are fcaly and ot a light grey,
as well C.3 thofe of fome of the fn.aller kinds I have mentioned.
The reft have yellow feet. The talons of this laft mentioned
fuecies .re as ft"^ng and large as thofe of the larger kind. Spar-
row-hawks arc likewife found here, with white breads and
necks ; thofe of others arc variegatcil with white, grey and red.
iViufcles are very commo! ly found along the coaft. We more
than once atti mpted to eat fome of th.m ; but found them lb
full of pearls, th" it was impoflible to ':hew them : as thefe pearls
being very ' rd e:idangercd the breaking of our teetfi, and when
they
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 215
they were broken in pieces, they left a kind of fand in the mouth
which was very difagrccable. As I believed the prod action of
thefe pearls to be owing to fome diforder in this IhcU-fiih, I ima>
gined that this diforder might be owing to this animal's futfering
from the want of water during the ebb of the fea. I therefore
fancied, that if we took fuch as were conftantly fupplied with
water, we fliould find them without pearls. The mufcles I
had found among the roots of the fea grafs, confirmed me in this
opinion. I opened fome both of the common and Magellanic
forts i they were without pearls and excellent. I carried
two or three dozen to the encampment j they were liked by all
the lovers of this ihell-fifli, and we afterwards ate them fre-
quently.
No remarkable occurrence happened from the i ith to Thurf-
day the 2 2d of March. Provifions and other articles were landed
for the ufe of the people who ftaid to eftablifli this new colony.
On the 2 1 ft, we laid the firft ftone of the pyramid.
There was one circumftance however that deferved notice, and
occafioned various I'efleftlons among thofe who were witneiies of
it. It was related to me on my return to the encampment.
On Thurfday the 22d of March, I was defirous of knowing
the truth of this circumftance, and have fince been convinced of it
more than once by ocular evidence. We carried over about a
dozen hogs male and female. One of thefe was caftrated. After
they were all landed they went to feek their livelihood in the
fields, and never failed to return every evening to pafs the night
together near the encampment. At firft they had a kind of litter
of hay made for them, which though in the open air they cer-
tainly enjoyed very much, as they repaired to it fo pun6tually.
Somebody obferved that the caftrated hog generally returned
about half an hour fooner than the reft, took fcveral turns round
the litter and placed the hay in order; that he took and carried
it in his teeth to their lodging, and filled every place where it
was wanting. When the reft returned they lay down together,
and he took his place laft. If any one of them found his fituatioii
H h unea/y,
•'*H
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2l6
JOURNAL OF MV VOYAGB
xineafy, he got up, and falling upo>< iit caflrated hog, bit hirts
and obliged him to fetch more hay to make up the litter. The
females in paiticular were very nice in this article.
During our (lay one of them brought forth eleven pigs, ami
another twelve, fkfidcs thefc young ones, we left there eight
fows and one boar. It is eafy to judge how faft tli^ will
multiply. I "^^ , , ( : V
I returned to the encampment with an intention of ftnying
t)nly three days, and fetting out on the 23d, to go by land to a
bay iituatcd to the South Eaft of the iiland. M. de Bougain-
ville having feen it in the tour he made fome days after our
arrival, thought it delightful, and called it Beau-port, as it was well
adapted for a commodious harbour. I was to accompany M.
I'Huillier, and two or three others thither to take a draught of
it. But as foon as M. de Bougainville and myfclf came to the
encampment, M. THuillier urged the neceflity of poftponing the
expedition to Bean-port to the Thurfday following, his prel'ence
being abfolutcly neccfTary to carry on the building. M. de la
Gyraudais was the only perfon who returned on board the
Sphinx. M. de Boogainville lay in his cottj I fpread a
mattrefs u|X)n fome hay in the fame tent, a'.d lay in this manner
nine nights. I employed the day in vifiting the adjacent parts,
in botanical refearches, and in other inquiries into natural
hiftory.
On Saturday the a+th of March, it was propofed that we
ihould go in iearch of the three ftray horfcs, to ^cure them
with ropes, and bring them to the encampment. A party of
thirty who fet out on this errand, found and furrounded them.
They fuffered us to approach io near, that M. de St. Simon
feized one of them by the mane ; but the mare which he held
difengaged hcrfelf by a violent effort which threw him down,
and leaped with the reft over the ropes we had put round them.
They ran fo far, that it was thought proper to give over the
puriuit.
2 « We
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 217
We had better fucccfs with the cows anc' iijiKrs. Thefc
were in the fame manner fcattered and difperfco ■vjc: .ne country i
but a little calf that had been caught being brought near the
encampment, and tied to a flake, the dam heating it low in the
evening came to give it the teat, and the reft followed her. By
returning in this manner two or three days fuccefTively, thefe
animals bixame accuftomed to it, and repaired punflually every
evening to the ftabic that was built for them.
On the 27th, M. de Bougainville and M. I'Huillier ordered
their cotts to be carried to the chamber in the new building,
Which was inlended for M. de Nerville. They propofcd to me
the removal of my bed, but I rather chofe to ftay in the tent, as
the damp ilTuing from the walls, which were rough-caft thi' very
'
Difcovery.
Settlement of the Mahuine
IJlandsy fituated 51 d. 30 m. South
latit. and 60 d. 50 m. Weft long. E. of the mer.
of P/=, Captain of a fiie-fliip, and
the Sphinx Sloop Captain F. Chinardy
Gyraudais Lieutenant of a Frigate,
fitted out by Lenvis de Bougainville Colonel of Foot, Captain of
the vefl'el. Commander of the expedition, G. de
Bougainville de Nerville Volunteer, and P. Darboulin
Adminillrator General of the Pofts in France. Conftruflion of
a Fort and Obeliik embellidied with a medallion
of his Majerty Lewis XV. agreeable to the plans of A,
tHuillier de la St ^re Engineer Geographer of the
Camps and Armies ferving on this Expedition
under the Miniftry of E. de Choifeulf
Duke of Stainville. In
February 1764.
[With thefe words for the exergue, Conamur tenues grandia.]
This kind of medal is inclofed between two leaden plates, and
the whole in a hollowed ftone. Near it is placed a double glafs
bottle well flopped with miftic to refift the wet, containing a
roll of paper on v.hich were infcribed the names, firnames,
ranks, and countries of all the perfons who compofed both the
fhip's companies employed on this expedition, and of the
volunteers *.
This fort was called Fort de St. Louis. It is fituated on a
rifing ground, not overlooked by the neighbouring heights which
• This lift rcll which is infert:d in the original, is omitted by tb? Trandator,
as not beinjj intrefling to the Eiiglifli reader. The number of perfons on board
the two (hips, including officers, failors, paftengers, fervants, &c. amounted in
all to 1 ^8, and 28 of ihcfe, including women and children, remained in the ifland
lor the cilabiilhaicnt of the colony.
arc
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 219
are at the diflance of at lead two full leagues. It commands all
the adjacent country, and efpecially the entrance of the creek,
at the txtremity of which the new habitation is built. This
entrance is with good reafon called the Goukt, or GuJIet j becaufe
when the fes is high, the opening is no more than a full piftoU
fliot in breadth.
M. Bafle and myfelf went on the 28th to fee the large bay,
where I gathered a great quantity of the mod beautiful Limas^
or cochleae, with mother of pearl, and fafciated, and fome flat
patellae, which were extremely fine. On the 29th, it blew a
ftorm, and there fell a great deal of fleet, attended with fqualls
of wind.
On the 30th the wind blew very cold, with hazy and dark
weather, which continued all night, a circumftance unufual in
this country, at leaft fince our arrival. Till this day, the 31ft,
the fky had almoft conftantly been fine and ferene. We had
white frofs two or three times, and once only the fl^anding
waters were flcirnmed over with ice ; but for fcveral days pafl:
there had been a coolnefs in the mornings and evenings, which
in hot countries we fliould call cold. However from ten in the
morning to five in the afternoon, you feel the warmth of May
in thofe places which are flieltered from the wind.
The weather was hazy all night, and Sunday morning the firft:
of April. About ten the wind difperfed the fog, and veered to
the North North VVefl-, where it blew with fome violence, but
fubfided at four in the afternoon, when I returned on board
with almofl all the officers who were not to winter in the new
colony. M. de Bougainville and M. I'Huiilier, were the only
perfons who ftaid to fuperintend the work on the roof of the
building, which was almofl: finiflied.
The lame day Laurence Lucas, carpenter of the Sphinx', put
the finiftiing hand to the carving of the double flower-de-luce in
ftone, which was to be placed on the top of the pyramid. The
two medallions in wood, one reprefenting the buft of Lewis XV,
and the other the arms of France, which were to he fixed on
two
M"
*k
.229
JOURNAL OF PIY VOYAGE
*wo bppofite fides of the pyramid were in great forwardnefs.
All the provifions and other aiticles which were intended to be
kft upon the ifland were landed, and lodged in the Magazine,
On Monday morning the ii(\, M. Duclos Guyot went in the
yawl to found the bay, round the fmall illand covered with corn-
flags, which was the neaieft to the place where we were moored,
and was called I/e au Tcnnclier, or Cooper's ifland, becaufe our
cooper was fettled there in order to carry on his bufinefs,
M. Duclos every where found a good bottom, and con-
cluded from the depth, that the true channel of the tiJe is on
the fide of this ifland opjjofite to that wliere \vc were moored.
The afternoon was very windy.
On Tucfday the 3d, it was calm all day, and tiie weather fine.
M. de Bougainville repaired to the habitation, to make every
preparation for taking pofleflion of thefe illands, having fixed
the day for Thurfday next.
M. de NerviUe and myfelf, pafl'ed the wliolc afternoon upon
the Burnt ifland, where we gathered a large falad of creflcs and
celery upon the banks of a pond at tlic eafttin point. The
latter of thefe plants is very common in all the parts of diis
ifland that we have vifited.
On the 4th, the wind which blew very frefli, x aried from the
South South Weft, to the Weft North Weft, thi weather was
iine, and the fea ran very high ; which did not however prevent
our fportfmen from going out to kill buftards. Four officers
belonging to the Sphinx, had brought fiom thence a hundred
and th'ee fome days before. Our oflicers, encouraged by this
fucce.j, determined 10 go thither, and killed eighty-three. Two
of them killed but 36 this day, with fourteen ducks and teals.
They gave 18 buftards to the Sphinv, on account of the pre-
parations that were making for their departure, which was fixed
for the next day. The fort fired one and twenty cannon to
announce the ceremony of taking pofi'eflion, which was to be
performed the next day.
M
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. azx
At four o'clock on Thurfday morning the fifth of April, oiir
longboat was fent with her hawfer and anchor, on board the
Sphinx J after which ftie weighed her two anchors, and got
under fail at half an hour paft feven, with a favourable wind
and fine weather. ;
At day-break tlie foit made a difcharge of oiie and twenty
pieces of cannon.
The moment the Sf hinx failed, we all embarked in our yawls
and one fiOiing-boat to go to the fort. As foon as we landed
at the gullet, the fort faluted us with feveral guns. A party of
the inhabitants, who had taken the refolution to remain in this
new colony appeared in arms at the gullet. They conducled us
to the fort, at the foot of which we found all the reft under
^rms. After the parade they accompanied us to the fort with
drums beating.
All the company being airembled at the fort, the pyramid was
opened ; I then folemnly fang the 71? Deum ; after that the
pfalm Exciudiaty then tiirice Domine fahum fac regent. After this
I rehearfed tiie verfe Fiat mama tua, Domine^ fuper virum dextcra
tuce ; the reiponfe was, ^ fuper Jilium bojiihns quern confirmafii
iiin, then the prayer ^afumns, omnipotens Deus, ut famulm ttius
Litciovicus Rex nofter, &c. for the profperity of his reign. We
tried Five le Roy feven times and fired twenty-one cannon. We
cried again kvcn times Vhe le Roy, M. de Bougainville then
produced the king's commiinon, appointing a governor in the
new colony, which was delivered to M. de Nerville, wlio was
in< mediately received and acknowledged as fuch. M. de Bou-
gainviHc, in the king's name, likewife proclaimed the other offi-
cers, who were in the fame manner unanimoufly acknowledged.
■ i\v\ altar was likewife erected in the fort at the very bafe of
the pyramid. I intended to have faid mafs thcr(\ to miike the
ceremony of taking poUelTion more facred anu folemn. But the
wind blew with fucii violence, that notwithftanding a tent was
ercdttd there, i*: was thought proper to content oyrfelves v. ith
the ceremony I have defcribed. We afterwards repaired to the
apaitiTienrSi
n
222 JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
apartments in the habitation, where at eleven o'clock we had a
plentiful breakfaft, the allowance to all the (hip's company being
doubled on the occafion.
As foon as breakfaft was over, we went to vifit the feveral
fpots on which different forts of grain had been fown eight or
ten days before; and found them fprung up, and in a very
healthy and flourifhing ftate.
On our return, I flopped at a place where I had obferved a
pretty common plant, which makes an excellent infufion : this
I fliall defcribe hereafter. Having only time to gather a little
of it, we took our leave, and returned on board.
On Friday the 6th, at fix in the morning, M. de St. Simon
and two others went on Ihore in the longboat to water, and
killed fevcnty buftards, twelve ducks, fome teals, and feveral
fnipes. Thefe buftards, together with a great number that were
killed before, were put in barrels ; fo that we had two tierces
and fome barrels to fupply us on our return to France.
The calm and the fine weather at fun-rife, favoured the exe-
cution of M. de Bougainville's defign to furvey and take draughts
of the great bay where we lay at anchor, of its creeks and the
environs. With this view, Mcfl'. I'Huillier, Duclos, his two
fons, MefT. de St. Simon, Dcnat, le Roy and myfelf, embarked
in the longboat, and landed at the bottom of the bay in a creek,
which runs up a great way within the land. You fee it in the
chart of the harbour. MelT. de St. Simon, Donat, and le Roy,
went out a fporting, while Melf. I'Huillier, Duclos, Seigneurie,
fbrne others and myfelf, made obiervations from the eminence
or mountain E. Wlien we had finiftied our obfervations, and
taken a draught of the bay with the graphometer, we amufed
ourfelves with obferving a ruin, produced, as it fliould feem, by
fome earthquake. It afforded a profped fo dreadfully pleafmg
that I was extremely mortified at my want of time, and the
neceffary inftruments, to iketch out a perfe6l reprefentation of it.
A painter might here find materials to compofe a pidure of the
finert
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 223
fineft ruins. A (ketch of it is given in the plate, as alfo of a
kind of amphitheatre fituated a hundred paces from it.
We were no lefs aftonilhed at the fight of the infinite number
of ftones of all fizes thrown one upon another, and yet ranged
as if they had been piled negligently f :» fill up fome hollows.
We admired with infatiable delight tne prodigious works of
nature. I attempted in vain to engrave a name upon one of
thefe ftones, which formed a table a foot and an half thick, ten
feet long, and fix broad j it was fo hard that neither my knife
nor a punch could make any imprellion upon it. I tried feveral
in the fame manner which were equally hard. I broke off a
piece by flriking a corner with another ftone, and all the pieces
that were broken off had the appearance of freeftone por-
phyrized.
This freeftone as it is found in its beds, which run in all di-
reftions, is every where cut into tables of a different fize and
thicknefs j but in fuch a manner as if art had been ufed.
Thefe ruins reprefented in the plate, refemble in feveral places
the gates of a city, whofe arches are demolilhed ; and of which
there remain only fome walls to the right and left, ftljl raifed
twenty or five and twenty feet, in the parallel angles forming
the entrance. They are I'ke the walls of a town, the ftones of
whicl\ have been ranged according to the level and the per-
pendicular, as they are in our walls compofed of freeftone.
Some angles are likevvife to be feen here, both faliant and re-
entraiit, fome out-works more than fifteen feet high, and fome
redihneal proje(5tions 1l j corninies, advancing at Icaft half
a foot, and which run at the fame height all along the pofterior
or internal, as well as the anterior or external parts of the
ruins. The only things wanting arc the mouldings.
To the left of the track leading from the fpot where we
landed, we met with the eminence on which the ftones are
ranged like the arches of an amphitheatre : the figure of which
I have given. Beyond thefe ruins lies a valley more than
two hundred feet deep, a:id about half a quarter of a league
I i broad,
»^( it
*i'l
224
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
broad, the bottom of which is covered with ftones thrown to-
gether jironiifcuoufly, and feems to have ferved as a bed to a
river or feme large torrent, which running through the hollows
made by thefe eminences, probably difcharged itfelf into the
great weftern bay I have mentioned. The eminence which is
beyond the valley appears to be covered with ruins, fimilar to
thofe upon the eminence on this fide. Before you come to thefe
you meet with an efplanade, or platform of earth, about twenty
or twenty-four yards broad, which runs from the bafe of the
amphitheatre, beyond the fiift opening of thefe ruins, which I
faid rcfembleJ the entrance or gate of a city. The rubbidi of
thefe feeming walls obftrudts the continuation of this efplanade
where you fee two pieces of water, or refervoirs, one nearly
round, the other oval, at a hnall diilance from each other j the
firfl: about twenty«five feet in diameter, the other thiity. A
gentle decliviiy fifty feet broad k-ads from the efplanade to
the ruins.
From the bottom of the hill you fee kinds of hollows intirely
filled with thefe promifcuous heaps of flones.
Between thefe hollows are irregular fpots of ground, twelve,
fifteen, twenty, and twenty-five feet in breadth, and twenty,
thirty, and at leafl fifty in length, covered with herbage and
heath, as if they had cfcaped the fliock. Between thele pro-
mifcuous heaps of flones, are every where left void fpaces or
interftices, whofe depth cannot be cftimated. The fmalleft of
thefe ftones, none of which are angular, the corners being
rounded, are two feet in length, and one in breadth or there-
abouts ; their figure however is not regular. They are likewife
compofed of a fpecies of freeftone which is of a very hard
quality. It is an hour's walk from the place of our landing to
the rubbifli, and the road is level all the way as far as the toot
of the eminence on which the ruins are feen.
As we returned, I gathered a little bag full of a plant which
I fliall defcribe in the fequel under the name of Luce mujque, or
7hi de: JJks Malouines : I ate twenty of the fruits of a fmall herb
which
u
M
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 225
which our mariners call PJai de bierre : and we retifcrned (ao.
board loaded with game.
After the ceremony of taking pofTeflion, M. de Ncrville invited
us to a dinner he intended to give the Sunday following^ by
way of taking leave, and wiftiing us a fpeedy return to France.
We agreed to wait upon him. But our captG n M. Diiclos
Cuyot, having reprefented to M. de Bougainville, cji4t the longer
we deferred our drparture, the greater would be our danger of
meeting with bad weather and a tempeftuous fee;, on account of
the approach of winter in this country j that, two days fooner or
later were of confequence, elpecially as M. de Bougainville
wifhed to give the court as early an account of his expedition
as poffible i and that, it was tlierefore necefl'ary to feize the firft
opportunity of gettuig under fail : the refolution was accordingly
taken on Saturday evening, to fail the next morning if the
weather proved favourable.
On Sunday the 8th of April, we failed at half pafl four in the
afternoon, the fort fainting us with twenty difcharges of cannon.
M. I'Huillier and fome others were difpatched early in tlie morn-
ing to the habitation, to make our compliments of departure,
and to bring two hogs and two dozen of fowls to make broth
for thofe who might have the misfortune to be ill.
When we arrived in the great bay, that is, when we had got
beyond the illands fituated in it, we lay by to wait for our
longboat, which arrived at fix with our great anchor. When
we had taken them and our yawl on board, we got under way
at half jiaft feven. At half paft nine we were North and South
of the ifland at the entrance of the bay. From this time to
midnight, we diic6led our courfe to the Baft, at the rate of
three leagues and two thirds an hour.
I could not have conceived, tliat at fifty-one decrees and
an half latitude, and fixty longitude from the nicridian of
Paris, a climate could have been found fo temperate as that of
the Malouine lilands. We landed at the eallem point, a part
of the illand expolcd perhaps more than any other to cold, white
I i 2 frofls,
1;
«'
'•^i ri
W
I
226
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
I -
frofts, and other inconveniences incident to a fituation almoft
intirely encompafTcd with the fea, or with bays, forming a
peninCula Iwept by the South Weft and Weft winds, which
are the moft frequent in tliofc parts. We had reafon to draw
this conclufion during more than two months ftay in the
country even in the time of autumn, when the cold might be
expedled to be felt early in that latitude ; and from the Jierbagc
in all the parts we vifited, inclining to the North Eaft and Eaft.
Notwithftanding this, except the grafs which was withered by the
heats of fummer, as is ui'ual in all other countries, the other
plants, and even the grafs of the fccond growth, were ftill very
green at the time of oar departure.
In the quarter of the ifland which we faw, the land every
where prej'ents a very agreeable afpedt. Mountains, or rather
eminences which we called mountains, encompafs plains farther
than the eye can fee, divided by little rifing grounds and hills
which communicate by gentle declivities. At the foot of each a
rivulet, more or kfs confiderable runs in winding mazes, and
difcharges itfclf into the fea through the numerous creeks of the
bays. That in which we anchored (which might be called
Bay€ de St. Louis on account of the fort of this name wiiich is
crcfted on the land which terminates it, or rather Btjye Roya/e,
on account of the pyramid dedicated to Louis XV. our well-
beloved monarch) runs up more than fu leagues within land,
and naturally forms a good harbour in which more than two
thouHinci ftiips may ride at anchor. There is every where a
good bottom, idands of different fizes, peninfulas to the number
of about twelve, which afford fuch Ihelter from the moft violent
winds, that perhaps there is never any (well in thofe parts.
The entrance of this bay is at leaft two leagues over, and is
contradled by a pretty large ifland at fome diilancc from the
South Eat! point, as may be lecii in the chart.
Tiiis great bay which was difcovered fifteen days before we
Lft the iilaiid, has been examined and traced in part by M, de
Belcourt and M. Martin, who made an excurfion thither of two
or
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 227
or three days and nights. As we were defirous of obtaining a
more perfeft knowledge of its extent, Mefl'. de St. Simon and
Donat fet out fome days after the return of the two gentlemen
I have juft now mentioned. They went at firfl: to the place
where it approaches Jieaieft to the habitation, which is at the
diftance of two little leagues, and then kept along the fliore till
they came to the bottom of it. They palled here to tlie oppo-
fite fhore, and followed it ten leagues. The brooks and a con-
fiderable river which it was difficult to crofs, obftrufting their
farther progrefs, they determined to climb the higheft mountain
they could find -, from whence they thought they Ihould be able
to difcover the entrance of this bay and the rd\ of its courle.
They judged at that time that it ran at kart fifjeen leagues
within the land, and formed into a peninfula that part of the
country where we had eftabliflied our fettlement.
According to their account, the coaft of this bay prefents to
the view an excellent foil, and an agreeable profpef.. At every
quarter of a league it is watered by brooks and imall rivers, one
of which, that runs from the Weft, appeared to them to be fixty
feet broad. They found a prodigious number of buftards in
flocks of twenty or forty, and a great many other birds. Upon
the whole, they counted twenty-lix pretty large iflands in that
part of the hay which they furveyed.
It may be doubted, whether there is not actually a ftreight
which divides thefe iilands, and communicates from North to
Sou*^'i as fome navigators have imagined, and whether the ap-
pear "ice of this bay might not have led them to form fuch a con-
je6ture> Perhaps they law only its entrance, or not venturing on
account of itsruniiing lb deep within the land and its great breadth,
to proceed farther into it, concluded that it formed a flreight *.
After an attentive examination of the foil at the habitation,
and that of its environs, I think I may venture to pronounce it
of
* It was found on ;i fccond voyige, that fuch a ftreight a£tu:illy exifts ; and thafc
its entrance on tlic northi-rn fide, is at the place called by us la Comhic.
228
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
of a mineral nature. The ochreous earths, b-^ m ind and
yellow, the fpars, the quartz, which are every where to be
foiinci, are evident proofs of it. The rocks which are commonly
covered with '^rcy and reddilh fl''^", I'ufficiently indicate a great
quantity of fvilphur. On bre? ; ■ j the tops of the rocks of
quartz which appear on the fuiface, with crows and mattocks,
I found in the crevices, marks of a vitiiolick and coppery ma-
trix. I likewile difcovered a fubftance < *^^ a grceniih call, which
had the aftrijigency and acidity of verdegreafc : 1 applied a little
of it to the tip of my tongue, and was forced to fpit very much
for a full quaiter of an hour. Here you frequently meet with
pyrites which are round, and fulphurcous ; and with others of
irregular figures, which one wou'd conclude belonged to an iron-
mine, both on account of their weight and their brown colour,
mixed with an ochreous c?rth of a reddiih yellow, or of the colour
of ruft. In digging to lay the fou iations of the houfes, M. de
Bougainville obferved in the earth that was thrown up, fcveral
pieces of broken quartz, wliich exhibited to the eye fjiangles
that glittered like gold. He picked up ibme which he brought
to me, and I imagined ai firft fight that it might be wica, or
the yellow talc. However as the talc is not ufually lound in
the quartz, I thought it might be that fpecies of fulphur which
glitters in the pyrites. We were luifortunately unprovided with
the necedary materials for making experiments ; we had no
coals, or wood, no furnace, or even aqua regia, nor could any
he made with fo fmall a quantity of aqua fortis. The crucibles
I brought were ultlefs to me. There was befulcs, too fmall a
quantity of thefe little gluiering particles, and v\c had too many
other objcils to engage our attention, to be at leifure to ran-
fack the earth for fuch a colleftion of them, as would be
fuHicicnt to make an experinient. I therefore contented myfelf
witli vifitiiig the place where the ground had been dug, and
examining the earths tliat were thrown up. In a hollow at the
depth of about fix feet, I perceived a bed of earth lying ob-
liquely , fix inches broad in feme places, the reft of an unequal
6 breadth,
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 229
brcadtli, which entered the ground in the fame dircflion. This
bed was compofed of quartz covered with a rufty earth, yellow
and red ochre, and a fort of hollow flints, feveral of which
were filled with a fpecics of fine bole, of a flelh or rofe. colour in
fomc, and of the colour of fine lacca in others ; feveral, with a
very fine eartl^ of a brownifli red colour. The cover, or I^ony
cruft which urrounds thefe fine earths, is commonly of the
fame colour with the inclofcd fubftance. I have met with fome
of them grcv, very much refembling filver ore. Their colour
bee '•^•^ht deeper when expofed to the fire, rJlch gave me
reafo onclude that they are of an ochre iuo tju;;rity, and
t ^c'^lill chiefly of iron. On my ret;irji France, I,
ft: ic of thefe pieces of quartz to perfons verfcd in expe-
rimer folfils, who likewife judged them to be iron 01 e.
Havii,^ therefore no hopes of making difcoveries of this kind,
I turned my attention on the plants of the country. I met with,
only four or five of thofe kinds which grow in France. Here
is plenty of red and white celery, which has a fweet and plcafant
tafte, though produced without culture. We ate it in fallads
and foiips every day. Some of our mariners called it Macedonian
Par/ley, and were afraid of it at firfl:, but ate it afterwards with-
out fcruple, efpecially as the country afforded no other greens.
M. Duclos, captain of the Eagle, found fome hartfhorn, or
rocket which he called Crefonetie, and brought it to the encamp-
ment. On tafting it, we found it rather too poignant. As M.
de Nerville and myfelf were walking along the fide of a pond,
we met with fome very good creflTes, and frequently ate them>
mixed with celery. Along the banks of a little rivulet, I have
I'een the Gremuillette or crowfoot, as well as the ranunculus,
which is cultivated in gardens for the beauty of its flowers.
Our pilots obferving that v/e were fond of a plant which had
rather a fingular appearance, were induced to tafte it. It has a
milder and more agreeable acidity than even the round leaved
forrel. They found it fo palatable that they put it into their
foupi
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230
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
foup the fame day, and as we did not perceive that they fufFered
any inconvenience from it, we ordered fome of it in our own.
This plant produces leaves ranged in a circular form, fome-
times eighteen or twenty in number, at the extremity of a
cherry-roloured petiole as thick as a crow quill, round and
generally from feven to eight inches high, always rifing above
the plants which furround it. The leaf is of a light green.
It has only one ftem nearly Hmilar to the footilalk of the
leaves, which fupports a fingle white flower confiHiing of a pen-
taphyllus calix, and having the figure of a very fmall tulip ; it
expands in the fame mannc, and emits a very fweet fmell like
the almond. The leaf of the plant is (haped like a heart, the
extremity of which is very much lengthened : each leaf is
faftened to the petiole or footftalk by this extremity, and forms
a kind of hoop. See the figure in the plate. I have never (sen
any of thefe leaves quite expanded ; they are almofl always funk
into a channel. Ten, twelve, and often more of thefe leaves or
leafy ftems proceed from the point of a long twiftf^d roof,
covered with fmall pointed fcales of a red colour inclining to
Vermillion, lying horizontally two or three fingers deep. This
plant is very common. We called it Vinaigrette from its talle.
Perhaps it belongs to the clafs of wild forrel.
The plant reprefented in the figure next to that of the Vinai-
grettCy may be ranked among the Satyrions : its leaf Teems at
firft fight to fuggeft this conje<£lture : however as the orchifes
have ufually no more than two tubercles at their root, and this
plant has twelve roots or more, fhapcd like thofe of the goat's
beard and very long, I think it ought not to be placed in the
clals of the orchifes. I take it to be the Epipaftis, mentioned by
Father Fcuillee, page 729. pi. 29. under the denomination of
Epipii^ii amplo fore luteo vulgo gravilla : the root of the Epi-
pactis of the Malouine Klands, bears however a greater refera-
blance to that of the Epipatlis fioribm um verfu difpofitis vulgo
Null, which he mentions p. 726. and is reprefented in pi. 17. It
grows in the dry and barren parts of Chili, and the Epipadlis
Jlore
\ ■■*■.-' •f*t-"^"'^-''*^-'c''f-'^-'*^ *
' yj -"r** 7 V" ■>'»;■. ■■^^iV^rt't '-^
,"^F"'-v":'?^-'-''-
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 231
fore Juteo in the moi(l parts of the fame ' couhtry : that of the
Malouine Iflands likewife grows in low and moift places. The
root of this confifts of feveral knobs, which are formed into a
bunch. I have feen from ten to twelve of them, and fometimes
more. Their length on an average is three inches, and feme
of them are more than half an inch in thick nefs. They are
covered with a fmall thin fkin, incloHng a friable, foft, watery
fubftance, which at firfl has a fweetifh tafte, but when it is
chewed leaves fo ftrong a flavour or relifti of ambergreafe in the
mouth, that it a little refembles cat's urine.
I have not been able to difcover the flowers of this plant,
though I have feen feveral of every fize. The higheft of them
have capfules filled with feed, and a kind of tuft at the extre-
mity refembling a clufter of dried petals of a reddifli caft,
without any determinate fmell.
The feed is a very fine red dufl:, that fills the hollow part of
the capfule, which is divided into four or five compartments.
After the moil careful examination, I have not been able to
difcover any other kind of feed.
The ftcm of the plant never rifes higher than feven or eight
inches, and is covered with pretty long leaves, which frequently
form a fliallow channel ; fome are perfedly flat : they are all
fmooth, and of a green colour, refembling that of the leaf of
the orchis.
In all places wafhed by the water there Is found a fpecies of
fpleen-wort, which grows like a fungus, and fupports a ftem
with hollow leaves, in which the feed is contained : a circum-
ftance not common in any fpecies of the maidenhair, in which
the feed is a duft adhering to the verge of the prone difk of the
leaf. In this plant we are defcribing, the ftem that fupports
the feed rifes fingly on the right fide of the root, the leaves being
at t))e fame time circularly difpofed, or vertical. The ftem itfelf,
or it you will, the only leaf in the whole plant, which fupports
the feed, is in proportion near an inch longer than the longeft
K k of
r
farts are of a brown tortoife-flieli
col ..r, and the bottom is variegated with mother of pearl and
gilt tcrtoife-fliell. " 1. - '..
I have feen fome that were three inches and upwards at their
greatefl diameter. There are five or fix forts of them which are
more or fcfs oval j in fome the cavity is of a confiderable depth,
in others, though of the fame diameter, it is lefs deep by three-
fourths. I have fome in my pofleflion an inch and an half'
broad at their fmall diameter, which are not three Unes in
depth :•
'a^l
ll
tr
■' '. I
a3^
JOURNAL OF MV VOYAGE
• *'
depth } and others an inch broad whofe cavity is aiv inch deep.^
The inner furface of thefc is mod commonly of the colour of fine
white porcelain, and the bottom of the cavity of gilt tortoife-
ftiell. -
There are feme of this kind very large and beautiful, having
an oval aperture in the center of the top, white within, and
ftained with flripes of purple and violet, which widen as they ex-
tend from the center to the circumference.
The fourth fort is by fome called Dragoon's cap } the largeft
aperture I have had an opportunity of obferving does not exceed
from nine to ten lines in diameter, and fix or fevcn in depth j
the outward fuperficies is grey, almoft fmooth, and has fame-
times ftripes inclining to brown ; the infide is ufually of the
colour of the lees of red wine with a little tin£lure of brown.
In many of thefc patellae the perforation in their convex part is
not placed direftly in the middle, but rather towards one of the
edges of the greateft diameter. In one of them it is fituated as
near as poflible to one of the extremities. This patella is very
flat ; its fheil is fo thin, that it requires great nicety and care
not to break it. The two furfaces are fmooth, and filvered over
when the external one is ftripped of its outward covering, which
is of a filemot colour. Here is likewife found a concamerated na-
tella which is fmall and white, both within and without i I never
faw any of this fort but upon the fliore, and they were always
without the fifli. Tp thefe may be added that fort which our
Teamen call Gondolas or Boats ; becaufe it rcfembles them in fi-
gure when the bottom is turned uppermoft : but their upper
furface is like the coat of the millepedes. It is compofed of eight
pieces,, inferted into each other ii\ fuch a manner, that the fifli can
roll itfelf up, form itfelf into a round ball, and inclofe itftlf in
its (hell. A flefhy fubftance runs quite round with rough hairs
three or four lines in length. The (hell is variegated with fti ipes
or flreaks of a fine bluifh green, a milky-coloured white, and a
darkifli brown.
jr The
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS;
239
The Malouine iflands abound with four kinds of mufcles j the
common, the Magellanic, and two other forts which differ in
(liape both from the common and Magellanic. I have fcen
fome of thefe laft forts, the (hell of which was from five to fix
inches long, and three inches broad. Thofe which are gathered
from the rocks left dry when the fea retires, are common^
ly full of pearls, fome of which are pretty enough. Thofe
which adhere to the (hell, or are difperfed over the body of the
mufcle, are of a violet blue inclining to black ; they are often
uneven, and bear a great refemblance to turnip-feed. The pearls
of the large Magellanic kinds are white, but feldom of a good
fize, and clear colour. They are likewife very apt to break in
attempting to feparate them from the (liell. Thole which are
found on the body of the mufcle, arc properly nothing more
than feeds. It is highly probable that thefe pearls proceed from
Ibme diforder in the fi(h, as they are feldom found in mufcles
which are conftantly wa(hed by the fca-water. The want of
water, at a time when the fun darts his rays fiercely, undoubt-
edly occafions an extreme third-, and a languor that impairs
them, and creates an obdrudionj from which thefe pearls are
generated.
The (hell of one of the other two kinds of mufcles is white,
tranfparejnt, and fo light that the leaft breath of air blows it off
the hand. The other, though larger, is of a very fliining red
brown gold colour, particularly when under water, and the fun
fhines upon it. When empty, it is fcarce heavier than the pre-
ceding one, for the wind alone throws it upon the (hore. See
the plate, &c. : .
The large and fmall Magellanic mufcles are of the whitenefs
of mother of pearl, divided by purple ftripcs, adapted to the cir-
cular figure of the fliell. The coat which covers the external
furface is of a muddy brown ; but when this is taken off, it dii-
plays a fine (ky-blue veined with purple ftripes. The channels
diminifh infenfibly as they approach the (harp end, which is fine
' ^ - . 'LI mother
1'
.«
240
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
motlicr oi pearl, and from vvliich they proceed as from their
center. Sec the figure of tlicfc nmfcles in the plate. ~ >
A great number of other difTcrent ihclls engage the attention'
of the curious upon the cpafl of thcfe iflunds : foliated buccina,
fpinofe buccina, fcrcw fhells, of different kinds, Purpura^ fafciated
Cochleae, concamerated Cochlese, Ncritae, fmouth Chamae, ftriatcd
Chamx, Scollop (hells, Pe^tines, Echini, Sea-Aderiae, and a fpecics
of Concha, which our feamen call Guiulle deRttyes. This laft Ihell
has not till lately been known except among the foflil (hells, and it
has been doubted whether it exidcd in nature. In the fubfequent
voyages made to the fame iflands, fo great a quantity of them
has been colle«^ed, that they have been diftributed among the
cabinets in Paris : fo that the only (hell of the kind which I de-
pofited, on my return, in the cabinet of the Abbey of St. Ger-
main des Pros, is no longer a rarity.
There are probably feveral other (hells along the coaft of the
main fea, which I have not had an opportunity of feeing, be*
caufe the place where we anchored was about fix leagues in the
bottom of the bay } and the fpot on which we pitched our tentSi
and fixed our habitation was near two leagues farther. Through*
out this whole bay, J have feen no other kinds of (liells than thofe
I have defcribed : nor did we meet with any fifh befidcs thofe I
have mentioned, except fomc white porpoifes, and feveral whales*
There are three kinds of amphibious animals very commonly
found on thefe iflands ; fea-wolves, fea-lions, and penguins. I
have faid fomething of each of tlicfe j but (hould add, with re-
gard to the fccond, that the name of fea-tion does not fo pro-<
perly bJong to thofe I have defcribed, (and of which the author of
Admiral Anfon's Voyage treats pretty largely) as to another fpe-
cics, in which the hair that covers the bjfck part of the head, neck
and Ihouliiers, is at Icaft as long as the hair of a goat. It gives
this amphibious animal an air of rcfcmblance to the common lion
of the foieft, excepting the difference of li^e. The fea-lions of
the kind I I'peak of, are twenty-five feet in length, and from nine-
teen to twenty in their greateft circumference. See the plate. In
other
4
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 241
other rcfpcfts they refemblc the fca-lions, of whicli I have given
the Hguic. Thofe of the fmall kind have a head iclcinbling a
maf^iff's with clofe cropt cars.
The teeth of the fea-Hons which have manes, arc much l.irgcr
and more folid than thofc of the red. In thcfe all the tcttli
which are infertcd into the jaw-bone arc hollow. They have
only four large ones, two in the lower and two in the upper
jaw. The reft are not even fo large as thofe of a hori'e. I
brought home one belonging to the true fca-lion, which is at lead
three inches in diameter, and feven in length, though not one of
the larged. We counted twenty-two of the fame fort in the jaw*
bone of one of thefe lions where five or fix were wanting. They
were intirely folid, and projected fcarce more than an inch, or an
inch and an half beyond their fockets. They are nearly equal in
folidity to flint, and are of a dazzling white. Several of our fea-
men took them for white flints when they found them upon the
fhore. I could not even perfuade them that they were not real
flints, except L/y rubbing them againfl each other, or breaking
fome pieces off, to make them fenfible that they exhaled the fame
fmell as bones and ivory do when they are rubbed or fcraped.
Thefe fea-lions that have manes, are not more mifchievous or
formidable than the others. They are equally unwieldy and
heavy in their motions s and are rather difpofed to avoid than
to fall upon thofe who attack them. Both kinds live upon fifh,
and water-fowl, which they catch by furprize, and upon grafs.
They bring forth and fuckle their young ones among the dorn-
flags, where they retire at night, and continue to give them
fuck till they are large enough to go to fea. In the evening you
fee them afl'embling in herds upon the fhore, and calling their
dams in cries fo much like lambs, calves and goats, that, unlefs
apprifed of it, you would eafily be deceived. The tongue of thefe
animals is very good eating : we preferred it to that of an ox
or calf. For a trial we cut off the tip of the tongue hanging out
of the mouth of one of thefe lions which was juft killed. About
fixteen or eighteen of us eat each a pretty large piece, and we all
L 1 2 thought
Ul
#1
24a
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE f
thouglat it fo good, that we regretted we could not cut more
of it.
*Tis faid that their flefli is not abfolutely difagrecable. I have
not tafted it : but the oil which is extrafted from their greafe is
of great ufe. This oil is extrailed two ways j either by cut-
ting the fat in pieces and melting it in large cauldrons upon the
tire } or by cutting it in the fame manner upon hurdles, or pieces
of board, and expofing them to the fun, or only to the air : this
greafe diflblves of itfelf, and runs into vefl'els placed underneath
to receive it. Some of our feamen pretended that this laft fort of
oil, when it is frefli, is very good for kitchen ufes : this, as well
as the other, is commonly ufed for drefling leather, for veflels,
and for lamps. It is preferred to that of the whale : it is always
clear, and leaves no fediment.
The (kins of the fea-lions are ufed chiefly in making port*
manteaus, and in covering trunks. When they are tanned, they
have a grain almofl like Morocco. They are not fo fine, but
are lefs liable to tear, and keep frem a longer time. They make
good fhoes and boots, which, when well feafoned, are water*
proof.
The Penguin is fo (ingular an animal, that it is not eafy to
fay to what genus or fpecies it belongs. It has a bill like a bird,
and feathers -, but they are fo fine and fo unlike common feathers,
that they have properly the appearance of hair as fine as filk,
even when you. are near enough to examine and touch them;
You can only be convinced of the contrary by plucking one of
them, upon which you difcover the barrel and feathers of a quill.
Inftead of wings it has two fins, which are articulated in the
fame manner as the wings nf birds, and are covered with very
fiiiall feathers which might be taken for fcales. At firft fight it
appears to have no thighs, and its feet, which are rough like thofe
of geefe, feem to come out dijedlly from the body on each fide of
the tail, which is nothing more than a continuation of the fea-
thers, nearly in the fame manner as in ducks, but much fiiorter.
The neck, the back, and the fins are of a bluiih grey, blended
jti^itiilt J : ,1 through-
TO* THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 243
throughout with a, pearl-coloured grey. The belly down from'
the neck is white. The old ones have a white ftripe round their '
eyes mixed with yellow, which is not unlike fpedVacIes. From
thence this ftripe extends on both fides along the neck, where it
is fortietimes double, and pafllng clofe to the fins, terminates at
the feet which are of a darkilh grey, and have very thick toes.
Its noife is like the braying of an afs. Its afpefl and its motion
are different from that of birds. It walk^ upright, with its head
and body ereQ, like a man^ At the diftance of an hundred pacesy
you would take it for one of the children of the choir in his ha-
bit. The largeft of jhofe we have taken ijjay, be about two fee9
ten inches high. '5wJr>?ii(tii^*'*>'«*€t''-<*fff-^'^*»<*«j*rr .#. ■'4r-;
I They live aniong the corn- flags like the fea- wolves, and eartlv
themfelvcs in holes like foxes. They futferone to come fo neap
them without ftirring, that one mayikill them with a ftick. As
you approach them, they look at you, turning their head to the
right and then to the left, as if they made a jeft of you, and mut-
tered ironically Wfetf^ a fine fellow have we got here ! They fome-
times retreat when you are five or fix feet from them, and run
pretty mudh like a goofe. If they are furprifed and attacke^d,
they run in upon you, and endeavour to defend themfelves by
ftriking at your legs with theii? bills ; they have recourfe to ftra-
tagem to gain their point, and pretending to retreat fideways,
turn back in an inltant, and bite fo hard that they take the piece
out, if you have nothing to fecure your legs. They are ufually
feen in floCks, fometinles to the number of forty, ranged in order
of battlCj and eye you as you pafs at the diftance of twenty paces.
Their fleih is black, and has rather a perfumed tafte. We ate of
them feveral times in ragouts, which we found to be as good as
thofe made of a hare. We took off the. (kins from feveral, with
a view of preferving them, but they were fo oily that we threw
them into the fea :. it was likewife their moulting- feafon. L
wrapped the fkin of a young one in ftraw, which is in very
^ood prefervation ;. I have deppfited it in the cabinet of natu-
*..- . ,, ->.. . . ... ... . ,, .. .. ,, ..,: ral.
p
jiii
244
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
ral curiftfities belonging to the Abbey of St. Germain dcs Pf* ^
See the Plate.
When they take to the water, and find it deep enough to covcf
their neck and Hioulders, they pJonge into it, and fwim as quick
as any fiili. If they meet with any obftacle, they fpring four or
five feet out of the water, .and then plunge again, in order to
purfue their courfe. Their dung exhibits only an exceeding fine
earth, of a yellowifh red, intorfperfed with fmall (hining points
like mica -, it might be taken for the Lapis fortuitus.
As for the birds in thefe iflands, there are biit few found upon
land. There is a flock of birds upon the (hore like fmall thrulhes,
of a brown grey, fo tame that they come flying almofl; upon
your finger. I killed t^ with a fmall fwitch in lefs than half an
hour, without changing my place. They fct'atch among the fea-
grafs which is thrown ondiofe, and e&t the woi^ms and fmall
fhrimps, which we call PMes de meti becaufe they ai« (kipping
Inceflantly like fA»&,
Blackbirds are likewife found here, and a kind of thrafh with
a yellowilh belly. They feed in the feme manner as the bird I
have jufV now defcribed. We killed a kind of ftarling in the
fields, the upper part df whofe neck, back, and wings, is marked
and fpeckled almoft like thofe in France j the bill is likewife
/haped in the fame manner : but the lower part of the neck and
belly are of a very fine red, fomewhat inclining to a flame co-
lour ; this red k befprinkled with fome black fpots. I could not
give a true refemblance of it without making ufe of the minium
or red lead. See the Plates.
Here are great numbers of wrens like thofe in France, fnipcs,
curlieus and (ea-larks : likewife a fmall bird, not often feen, like
thofe that hover about flocks of fheep; thefe birds have all an ex-
cellent flavour. ■"' ' '' ' ?! -• .' ♦' - '
Upon the fea-coaft is almofl always feen a kind of duck, which
flies in pairs and fometimes in flocks : the feathers of its wings
are very fhort, and c«ily ferve to fupport it in running upon the
water, for it never flics. Its plumage is grey, its bill and feet
5 yellow.
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 345.
yellow. When it is not fhot dead, it continues its flight upoa
the furface as long as the lead breath of life remains. Its fleOi is.
oily, and has a fenny tafle : it was eaten however by our (hips
companies when no budrards were given them. Thefe ducks
ufually weigh at leaft between nineteen and twenty pounds each.
We called them grey geefe, to diftinguifh them from the kind
which affords that fine down of which rauifs are made. They are
not better eating than the ducks } their flefh has even a difagreeable
{(hell, which their oily (kin retains a confiderable time, thought
expofed to tlie air. This difgulling circum(tance prevented our
making a collection of them. They may probably be of the kind*
caW&fX Cahiiitabu du Para, ■ -''■m^Jh'-'-- ' ■ : >
The large feathers in their wifigs are of an iron grey ; the fmall"
ones a mixture of green and gold, and vary their colour like
thofe of a wild duck ; the reft- of their body is white. The arti-
culation of the wing is armed with a fpur as hard as horn, not.
very (harp, but rounded like a cone, «nd about half an inch long.
Their bill and feet are black. The ftrokes they give with their
wings in defending themielves, are accompanied with fuch force
that they bruife the fle/h where the blow lights. The buftards;
are likewife armed with a fpur of the fame kind. I received a
blow upon my hand from one that was even mortally wounded
with (hot. I felt a very acute pain for a full quarter of an hour,
and the mark of the briiifs remained more than two days.
The wild Ducks, which are here very common> are like thofe
of France, but not near fogoodj having, in general, the tafte
of mufcles : but the Teal and the Divers, which are no lefs nu-
merous, are excellent.
There are likewife found prodigious numbers of another fpecies>
of Divers which are tolerably good, though they have rather an
oily tafte. Our Teamen called them at firft Bec/ics, and after-
wards Coyons and Niga-uts, hecaufe they fuffered themfelves to b&
killed with (tones, not attempting to flyaway unleis they were
hit. They aliemble in flocks upon the rocks near the fea-coa(V^
fOmetimes to the number.of an hundred and upwards. When
we
"!
li
fa
1'
m
I
VII
I
i\6
JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
we went on fliore in the (loop, feveral companies of them, con-
filling of two ©r three hundred, paffed only eight or ten feet
above our heads. There are three kinds of them j all nearly of
the fame fize. Some are quite black ; in others the fore-part of
tJie neck and all the belly is white : in the third kind, the belly
and breafl is white, and the reft black. Their bill, which is of
the fame length as their head, is black and Hiarp, like that of
birds which are not aquatic. Their feet are of a dark grey and
webbed ; but inftead of four toes, they are only furnilhed with
three, which differ inihapefroRi thofe of other water- fowl. See
the Plate. Our feamen preferred them to wild ducks i and in-
deed they had not near fo difagreeable a tafle.
Red-lhanks and fea-pies are very good here; but the budards
in particular are exquifite, either boiled, roafted, or fricafleed. It
appeared from the account we kept that we ate fifteen hundred.
It is indeed hardly to be conceived, that the fhip's company of
our two frigates, confifting of an hundred and fifty men, all in
perfed health, and with good ftomachs, fhould have found a
quantity of thefe birds fufficient for their fubfiftence during a
liay of more than two months, within a tra£t of country not
cceding three leagues.
Thefe are almoA all the kinds of animals we faw in that part
of the ifland where we fixed our encampment, except two or
three kinds of fmall birds, fome of which refcmble the Siikin,
others the linnet ; and a kind of wagtail that has not fo long a
tail nor fuch darkifh ilripes as thofe of France. There is like-
wife found a kind of white gull, and a carnivorous bird of the
fize of a common hen, with reddifh grey plumage. The peo-
[^e on board called them grey gulls. They came very near us,
and, when we were in purfuit of game, flew fo dofe to our heads
that more than once they fwept off the caps and hats of our peo-
j^e. They make a noijfe much like a duck ; and though they
are water-fowl their feet are not webbed j but they feize their
prey voracioufly, by means of^ the very fharp talons with which
their toes are ^rmed } and when their prey is either not large
enough
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 247
enough to fupport upon the furface, or too heavy for them to
carry off, they tear it in pieces with their beak and talons, flap-
ping their wings all the time^ They fettle however upen the vya-
ter, and remain upon it like ducks, but I never (aw any of them
dive. Nobody thought it worth while to (hoot them, conclud-
ing they would be very bad eating.
A fmall heron with a crown is likewife found here, whofe
feathers are of an afh-coloured bluifh grey : the erown is com-
pofed of three white feathers three inches long, refembling in
(hape the crown of the peacock. Upon the breaft, round the
neck, under the wings, on the lower part of the back, and under
the thighs, there is a down, part white and part of a citron co-
loured yellow, at leaft an inch long, exactly refembling a piece
of the fineft raw filk.
In the fecond voyage we faw fome paroquetes, and a kind of
fwan with a red bill, the whole neck being of a mod beautiful
black, and the reft of the plumage white.
The climate and the air appear to be fo wholefome, that all .
the perfons we left behind remained on the ifland of their own
accord, and live under the fame roof, in the apartments provided
for them in the building ereded near Fort St. Louis ; where they
will fublift as well by (hooting, as on the proviHons with which
their magazine is plentifully (Vored for two years. One of the
two Acadian families which we carried over confifts of the hul^
band, his wife, two children, one a boy three years and an half
old, the other a girl about a year old, and of two young women,
fitters of the mother, the eldeft nineteen, and the youngeft
eighteen. The other family confifts of the hu(ban(i, his wife,
who is pregnant and ready to lie in, a fon four years old, and
the mother's fifter, a girl of (ixteen.
There remain here all kinds of artificers, as fmiths, iron-
mongers, carpenters, joiners, mafons, bricklayers, (hoemakers,
bakers, a captain of a (hip, failors, &c. The foil is very pro-
miling, and it is very probable that thefe aitificers will make
M m good
i!
<*n
(1.1.
m
ltd
|llt|.
m
I
ml
it«|p"-"
•'t the fmall wolf or fox
I have mentioned. This will not be furfififmg if we re-
collect that travellers affuj'e us, that no reptiles or infeifts are
found in the fouthcrn part of Chili, which is pretty nearly
in the fame latitude with, and almoH; oppofite ta the Malouine
Idands. See the chart of the coaft which we made a furvey of
from our place of landing on the three illands, which we took
at firft to be the Stbalds, to the port or caftern bay where we
anchored. .;,:-/
In the fecond and third voyages the fhips, in returning from
the freights of Magellan, failed along the fouthern coaft of thefe
iflands, as it will be defcribed in the extratl of the journals of
M. Alexander Guyot, and M. de Bougainville ; and they have
made a chart of it, which is given in the plates.
On Tuefday the loth of April, we perceived feveral whales
and a great number of birds, among which were fome Petterils,
called D^miers, or chefs-boards, on account of their plumage being
chequered with black and wliite. The head and part of the
neck, likewife the tip and middle of the wings, are black ; the
reft of the body is not white, though it appears to be fo at the
diftance of piftol-fliot. On a nearer view you find that the
extremity of the wings is black j they have the appearance of
round fcalcs edged with black. It is of the fize of a large
pigeon. As W€ had now very frelh gales, the rolling was fo
conltiiit and violent, that it was impoOible to keep the difties
upon the table without holding them, and every perfon was
obliged to have his plate in one hand and bis fork in the other.
Notwith-
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 24^
Notwithftanding every poffibic precaution, a foup-difli, fome
plates and drinklng-glafl'es were bix>ken at dinner. Thefe rol-
iir»g3 were fo violent in the night-time, that thofe who did not
He in cots or haninsocks, could not reft in their beds. .
On the nth, the fame weather continued all the morning.
In the afternoon we faw feveral birds and whales. We were
flill fo exceflively rocked with the rollings, that it was almoft
impoflible 10 keep the deck. We faw a quantity of birds, and
a Very large whak> which accompanied tlie fhip for a confider-
able time, at the diilance of a mu(ket-fhot.
: On tlie i.4.th, we faw a number of grey fea-mews, and fome
•Q^ebrantQ-Uefibs.
From the i4Jtli to the 24tht nothing remarkable happened:
but on this day^ foon after feven in the morning, we faw a
flying fi(h by fome called. Adonis^ but for what reafon I cannot
fay. There are feveral kinds of them. Some are diftinguiflied
by the colour, others by the length of their fins which ferve
them as wings. There is a third kind with four wings inftead
of two, which is the ufual number. None of thofe we caught
between the tropics had more than two wings, fome of a larger,
others of a fmallcr fize. They were all of a fine deep blue,
filvered over on the back to half the breadth of their body, and
the whole belly was of a very bright blue, filvered over in the
fame manner. The largeft of them which fell into our frigate
was eight inches in length, including the head and tail. In
fome the wings were only two inches long, in others they ex-
tended as far as the tail.
Few animals have fo many enemies as the flying fifh. They
fpring out of the fca to efcape being devoured by thunnies, bo-
iiitos, Jharks, 6cc. and in the air meet with birds that are
always upon the watch for them. They rife fo high above the
water that they flrike againft the fails and flirouds of fliips
into which they fall : and this is the only way of catching them.
Their fleih is good and delicate. You fee them fpring out of
M m 2 the
i
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAOE
the water by hundreds like flocks of larks, at which time their
wings make them appear white.
On the 25th in the morning, we pafled the Tropic of Capri-
corn, and entered a calm and warm climate. Accordingly laft
Sunday, which was Eafter-day, we all put on our lighter
clothing.
On the 27th, we fpied land before us, and fteered N. E. 4 N.
then direded our courfe fo as to pafs within half a league of
it. At half an hour pad fix we found by obfervation that this
land was the ifland of Afcenfion, which appeared to us as de-
fcribed in the plate. We computed its diftance at about fix
leagues. As we approached this ifland, it appeared to me to be
compofed of feveral rocks joined together, or of a fingle rock
having different fummits, between which there was a little earth
or fand, covered here and there with fome herbage, which gives
a little verdure to the floping declivity which runs down to the
fea on the fide towards the N. E. and E. N. E. At half an
hour paft nine, feveral of our people fancied they faw trees, buC
on taking an accurate view of the whole with perfpeftive glalTes,
we concluded that what had the appearance of trees was no-
thing moi e than broom or (hrubs. At the bottom of the de-
clivity juft now mentioned, you fee a kind of Tandy flat, flightly
covered with verdure, upon the coafl: and to the N. N. E. of
the ifland. At half an hour pafl eight, we were at two leagues
diftance or thereabouts.
At eight o'clock, we difcovercd another ifland to the £. 4 N.
E. about fix leagues from the ifland of Afcenfion i three fmall
iflands foon after appeared clofe to the laft difeovered one.
This ifland, with the iflets about it, might probably be
the fame that fome feamen pafllng too far eaftward, and not
feeing the ifland of Afcenfion, have called Trinity ifland ; fince
many navigators pretend that the ifland of Afcenfion, and
Trinity ifland are one and the fame ; at leaft an ifland, and
three rocks or iflets, are found £. 4 N. E. of that of Afcen-
fion, as they are laid down in the charts.
7
This ifland of the
Trinity
4
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. ajj
Trinity will then be the largeft, or rather the largeft of the
four iflets I have been defcribing. Indeed the latitude in
which Trinity ifland is placed, and the latitude of Afccnfion,
would not be found to coincide: but the charts^ which are
fo faulty in placing other iflands, may pofTibly be miflaken
in the pofition of thefe. The largeft of the iflets, which I
took for Trinity ifland, was feen by us at the di(lance of five
leagues or thereabouts, but appeared lefs extenflve than the
ifland of Afcenfion, when obferved at the fame diftance. The
two iflets, or rocks, at^ firft^ view had greatly the appear-
ance of fliips under fail.
lim
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
fituated at about two>thlrds of the length of the body, are of a
gold colour, as well as fome parts refembling the teeth of a faw
and extending from the fins to the tail, which is arched. On
the outfide, their gills do not api^ear to be double. Their fnout,
which is not thick, is pointed, and has fmall teeth that are very
/liarp. M. Valmont fays, that this fifh dies foon after it is out
of the water. That which 1 delineated, lived near half an hour
hung up by the tail near the main-maft. It would probably
have lived much longer, if, by (Iruggling to difengage itfelf, it
had not difgorged its heart, which fell upon deck in my prefence,
'and on taking it into my hand continued 'it'> ^/ilpitation near
a quarter of an hour. In voiding it, it iTc' ^rged a great
quantity of blood through its gullet, (^ .ve drops oi which I have
reprefented upon the furface of tiie (o^^er jaw. Its ilefh is
ibmething like veal ; but dri r an I '^ore firm.
The bonito is a large fifli : 'iV^ ii^ure from the head to three-
fourths of its length is round j from thence it begins to grow
flatter, and terminates in a pretty thick tail, which is forked,
and like that of other filhes. As it has little or no neck, it has
two fins which are pretty long, but not broad in proportion to
the bulk of the bonito. On the back is a fin, which, as it ap-
proaches towards the tail, feems to form there, as well as on the
oppofite part under the belly, triangular projedions of a gold
colour. On each fide are placed two other fins of a blue colour,
terminating in a point at the tail. Two fmall fins appear
under the belly. The back is of a very deep blue, which grows
brighter towards the middle of the body. The belly is white
with a cad of greenifli yellow, and is variegated with feveral
ilripes of a greyifli colour, which feem to be blended together
promifcuoufly. The eye is large, and has a circle of gold round
the pupil. Its head is not To long as that of the thunny. It is
jieccllary to lard it well, as its flelh is very dry. See the plate.
Thefefilh always appear inflioals; the fea fometimes fcems
to be intirely ttvc.ed with them. The) are caught with the
ipear, oral' .\ bii- '. with ai. artificial flying-fifh. The flefh
of
*-*
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS.
•5S
t( the honito, which u taken on the coafts of the kingdom of
Angola, is faid to be hurtfuJ. In the middle of the fleOi of
fome we found €ame live worms. They were white, of the
thicknefi of the barrel of the fieathers in a hen's wing, and about
four lines in length. . - •
On the evening of the 25th, we again met with Tome Tea*
grafs, which the feamen call Goemon i grappet de raifin* I have
aire i'ly obferved, that the feeds with which it abounds are fmall
bladders, of the fize of tb^ latgeft fwan^fhot. They are not
colle£ted into feparate duAers but difperfed over the ftems and
brancho. When the feeds gro v dry, they dwindle to the fize
of a middling pin's head. The i<^ves which are very fmall,
almuft like thofe of parflcy ^iert, come brittle. Some of the
ftems, and a great number ot e fecis, are inc ifted with a very
fmall kind of ihell, 01 fpawn r filh which .s white and hard,
and when rubbed agaii i\ woo. ai^ls s a file, or the herb called
ihavc-grafs.
On the a6th, in the mornmp
^uancity of the fea^grafs I have k
almoO covered with it. Amon^
iound rabs df different fizes, ol a
'fpots. They have eight feet, an.
<;uirars, is almoil fquare on the fia
jeft from the extremity of the two
See the plate.
Several beds of this fea-grafs, fon
-broad as mr veflfei, and loiter, paila
are faid to come from the coafts of the Canary Illaiuls j others
pretend that they are diflodged from the "-ottom of the fea. Tins
opinion feems to be the moft probab. , fmce all the Canary
Iflands coiiUi hardly produce the prodigious quantity which ap-
peared for ; ourteen or fifteen days paft.
On the 5 ift, in the morning, being Afcenfion-day, the wea-
ther being c Im, after faying mafs we felzed this opportunity of
Scraping and breaming the veflel. At four in the afternoon we
N n . faw
we faw fuch a prodigious
rpeaking of, that the fea was
ne large bundles of it, we
ight red, marked with brown
two claws. The body, or
^' the head. The eyes pro-
i;ics that form this fquare.
of which were almoft as
.lofe to our frigate. Tliey
f \
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
faw a fail which feemed to be fleering W. N. W. at the diflanc«
of about fix leagues. We loft fight of it at night.
On Sunday, the 3d of June, the fea-grafs, which had not
been fcen for a day or two, appeared again in large quantities,
and a whale of middle fize played round the (hip a quarter of
an hour, at the diftance of gun-Ihot.
A few da5's after we faw a bird, which our Teamen call Equ^ret^
and another called the tailor-bird hovered aboui our velfel.
On the 13th, we caught a fifh with our drag-net called
Grande Oreille, It refembles the bonito in every particular ex-
cept the two fins, which ai'e fituated near the gills. Thsfe fins
are falciforn, and are at lead as large as thofe of the thunny.
Its flefli is not fo dry.
On the 15th, at five in the morning, we difcovered a fail
l)eajing N. W. of us, which appeared to fteer the fame courfe.
Upon this we clued up our fails, hoifted our flag and broad-
pendant, and made a fignal by firing a gun. After failing as
"near the wind as poflible, in order to wait for her, fhe likewife
hauled the wind, and continued at two cannon-ihot or there-
abouts to windward. Concluding that they did not hear the
firft gun, we fired another to windward j when they difplayed
a flag of peace, and fired a gun. Perceiving afterwards that
they took no further notice, we hoifted the enfign with a waft j
which flie equally difregarded, and always kept to windward
nearly at the fame diftance. As ftie failed at leaft as well as our
fliip, flie doubtlefs depended upon her failing. We refolved to
give over the chace, as it would have diverted us from our
courfe.
The French Captain could not make any proper excufe for dif-
obeying the King's regulations refpeding the marine, by which
every fnip belonging to the nation is obliged to bring to, when
a King's fliip gives the fignal by firing a gun, and hoifting the
broad-pendant on the proper maft, according to the rank of the
commander. We went ftill farther, by hoifting the enfign with a
waft, which is a fignal of diftrefs agreed upon by all civilized natioce.
This
TO THE MALOUINE ISLANDS. 257
This proceeding therefore, for this reafon at leaft, deferves the
highefi cenfure j and fets a very bad precedent. Had we unfor-
tunately been in adlual danger, he would have fuffered us to
perifh before his eyes, without giving us that afTiftance which
the laws of humanity require in fuch circumftances.
The royal navy has ever been jealous of the trading branch.
The former entertains prejudices which fet it above the feamen's
employment, and does not think praflice neceffary to attain a
knowledge of it. The latter, inured to the hardfhips and fatigues
of fea, juftly concludes that to excel in the -^.autic art, requires
the praftice of a whole life. Hence that j ty-fpirit of which
tlie ftate becomes the firft viftim, fince the liberty of the Reds, or
officers of the royal navy, occafions the fervitude of the Blues. If
we look into the annals of the laft war, we (hall find French
privateers whofe courage and intrepidity feemed to roufe the
winds to fight on their fide. Could it be believed that a Captain
of a veflel (M. de L.) was a calm fpedlator of an engagement
between a French fnow and an Englifh privateer, and contented
himfelf with commending the conduft of the Frenchman, who,
attentive to every particular, exerted every effort of fkill and per-
fonal bravery, to prevent the enemy from boarding him. In
fliort he faw her difmafted, and obliged to ftrike, without firing
a gun in her defence. How eafy was it for the Commander of a
Ihip of the line well armed to favc the brave Captain of the mer-
chantman, and to make himfelf mafter of the Englifli privateer 1
It is plain then that he remained inactive only becaufe it is not
the mode to wafte any powder to promote the commerce of the
nation, or prote6t a privateer belonging to a good citizen.
It may be urged, in excufe for the condudl of the Captain of
the French trading veflel, in not bringing to even when we hoifted
our flag of diftrefs, that having probably no more provifions and
rigging than were fufficient for his own ufe, he apprehended
that, if we fhould happen to be in want of them, we fhould
fcize his ftores by force, if he refufed to grant us a voluntary
fupply. This is an abufe too common in the royal navy, and
N n 2 has
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JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE
has given much offence to the trading branch : whidi^
finding itfelf defpifed and ill-treated, is glad of every opportu»
nity to retaliate j and I dare fay would take fome kind of plea->
fure in their deftruftion, in hopes of being relcafed by it fromt
the tyranny they experience from the royal navy. It would be
for the intcreft of the ftate if matters were fo prccifely regulated
by the royal autliority, that no perfon of either party (hpuid
tranfgrefs the order on any pretence whatfoever, but (hould bo
punifhed with the utmoft feverity. While this aniuDoiity, per-
petuated by the contempt which the royal navy expreiles for the
trading branch, and by the abufe of its power, continues ta>
fubfift between thefe two bodies of men, the ftate muft unavoid-^
ably be expofed to very great inconveniencies.
We are not di^ofed to follow the example of others, nor is-
any one inclmed to follow ours. This fpirit of fingularity, wlucJH).
runs through all our conduct, always tends to our deftrudtioiv.
We imitate the Romans, who employed only their freedmen m
biarilime affairs, and confined the land fervice to the patriciates^
The Englifh have better notions : among them the profedion of
a failor is in great efteem } and is the nobled of all tlie arts, be*
caufe it is exercifed by the pritKipal nolMlity in the kingdom.
The French indeed diffisr from the Romans, not for the fake oi
imitating the Englifh, but in order to gratify a number of inte-^
K&ed individuals, whofe opinion very improperly pafTes for that
of the nation* In France the art of navigation is efleemed*
a vulgar employment, though the command of (hips of the line
is a pofl of honour which can only be filled by a perfon who is
adlually a man of fome family. Accordingly there is more pa-
rade than fcience or connection in our navy ; there is more fhew
than real fklU in our ofHcers, and at the fame time their emolu>
ments are not adequate to their expences. In London, the idea of
merit and reward is not regulated by fafhion and court-influence,
but by the good of the ftate. Nothing is regarded but merit ia
a failor whatever his condition may be. If he is a good feaman
he is every thing, he is confidered as a ufeful man, is employed
ia
TQ THE MA.LOUINE I^L,AN?>S, zs^
in honourable ftatlons, and U rcwarde.d in[ proportion to his fer-
vices. It were much to be wi(hed that we >youlc| think, or ra-
ther a£b, in the fame manner. Virt.qe and, s^efit qught tq bf
tbe £buQdation of true nobility. '
This is the fource of that fpirit of party which is a c|ifgifaq^-
to tjie Reds, an injury to tjijs l^ues, and tbf: i^usfortune of t^e
French government.
The reader, I an) psrfiiidjQd, wili eycufe thU ^igJ^niQi?, 9S it
is diftated folely by npy, ^eaV for th.Q publijc gpod>, ai;ui the love t
bear my country. It is Certain, notwithfta^A^ing th6> rivalfliip'
fubfiAing between the two nations, that an English Cpniira^nder
would have been fo far from ailing like the French Captain, that
he would have made what hafle he could to join us, and to give
us all the afliftance in his power : which conduft ever ought tO'
be obferved between all nations without diflindtion. We went
up to and offered our afliftance to the Captain of a Dutch vef-
fel, we had met in October laft, which had loft her mafts.
On the 1 6th we faw feveral whales, and a kind of thornback,>
which our feamen call Rouet, We kept fight of the French-
ftiip before mentioned both yefterday and to-day : it continued
the fame courfe from the E. ^ N. E. at the diftance of about
three leagues from us, and we had proceeded about as far in.
our courfe.
On the 1 8th, at half part five in the morning, we fpied a fail
coming from the Eaftward. At eight it came abreaftof us, and
we fpoke with it. P was the St. Paul de Grandville, Captaini
Defveau, bound to Newfoundland;
On the 2oth and 22d we faw feveral fhipsj and on Sunday,
evening the 24th we fteered S. E. 4 E. with a gentle breeze from;
N. N. W. to W. N. W. in order to obferve the land, which we
faw at fix in the evening.
On Monday morning, the 25th, , we heard the clocks of-
St. Paul de Leon at feven, beiug N. and S. of the Ifle de Basj,
we hoifted our flag, and fired a gun for a boat ta come-
a ~ ta>
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26a JOURNAL OF MY VOYAGE, &c.'
to us, which foon arrived, and carried Meflrs. de Bougainville
and I'Huillier de la Serre to Morlaix. The frigate proceeded to
St. Malo. At eleven at night we dropt an anchor oppofite the
tower of Cape Frehel, the beacon being about a league N. W.^
[W. of us. -V 'TV'r-::^fr^mV '■ ' ,. ■, :ii) ,,' ., ;■ t
On the 26th, at half pad three in the morning, wc got under
fail, and about feven came to our moorings in Solidor, where the.
vefl*el was difcharged. M. de Bougainville having given the King
an account of our expedition, his Majefty ratified the taking
pofleflion of the Malouine Iflands, and immediately iflued otdexs,
for the Eagle to be got ready to return to thefe iflands.
j
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OBSERVATIONS
'-:. > I 2di I
» ••
OBSERVATIONS
' .- "-fi^ ■-'■: ■ ON THE vo;^ ■'■ ,
STREIGHTS of MAGELLAN
; ' ■■/./. T- >-■; AND ON THB ' "• '''/'; '"
P A T A G O N I A N S.
y
THE King of France having approved of the poflefilon
we had taken in his name of all the Malouine Iflands,^
the minidiy ifTued out orders for the fupport and im-
provement of the little eftablifhment we had formed there. The
Eagle frigate was again fitted out, and M. Alexander Puclos .
Guyot, who had been fecond captain ia the firft voyage, was
made firft captain in the fecond, with the brevet of lieutenant
of a frigate, under the command of M. de Bougainville^ Being
informed of M. Duclos's fafe return to St. Malo,. and defirous
of knowing in what ftate he had left the new colony, and what
difcoveries^ he might have made in the Streights of Magellan^
I wrote to him to beg he would inform me of thele particulars.^,
and received the following anfwer :.
" I waited to know what fervice I (liould be appointed to,,
before I did myfelf the honour of anfwering your letter j and
therefore begin by acquainting you, that we (hall fet out from
hence on the loth or 15th inftant,. for the Malouine Iflands.
But I (hall firft put into the Madeiras^ to take in wine, ^nd
other refFe(hments. From thence I (hall, proceed, to Port Defire,.
on the Patagonian coaft, to take a view of the country > and
then go on to our colony> where after having, unladen my pro-
\if10n9, aiid landed all my pafTengers, I (hall return to the
&trei^t»
I
'ih:
if,
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jTda
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
Streights of Magellan, to fetch a cargo of wood ; after which I
(hall wait for frefh orders from France. This is my deflination:
M. de la Oyratdais fets eut jfrom RochlFort, with a ftigalte laden
with proviHons neceflary for the colony. , -
You deflre an account of. ray laftiroyage, which I fliall now
give you. Wc fet out from St. Malo on the 5th of Oflober
1765. We had in all on board the Eagle frigate n^ men, 53
of which were workmen, or officers going as paflengers to the
colony. Among the latter were M. de Perriers, a half-pay
captain of the regiment of la Sare } M. Thibe de Belcourt, a
half-pay captain of the regiment Dauphin; M. Denis de St.
Siiaon, captain adjutant of the colonies ; M. THuinier de la
Serre, geographical engineer ; M. de Romainville, lieutenant of
infantry and engineer.
^ For the firft fortnight, we had bad weather and contrary
ivinds. On Sunday the 5th of November, we had a profpeft of
the Cape Verd IQands. On Monday we palfed by the iflands of
Fogo and Bravo. We did not nieet with much ftorm in crofling
the line, any more than under the tropics ; and on Saturday the
1 6th of December, we came within fight of the coaft of Brazil,
in 31 degrees 30 minutes South latitude, though we thought
ourfelves, as it commonly happens, ftill wide of it, from a defeft
in the charts, which you know throw this coaft too far back
weftward.
We ftayed afterwards fome time fearching for Pepy's ifland,
where it is marked in the charts, and in the neighbourhood,
without being able to find it. On Thurfday the 3d of January,
we had a profpedt of the Malouine Iflands, and made to land
at the Iflet, which in our firft voyage we called la ConcMe. On
Saturday the fifth inftant, we failed in, and caft anchor at the
diftance of half a mile from the mouth of the fmall bay of the
colony J where we found every body in good health. We con-
tinued unlading till the firft of February, when we were ready
to fet fail. On Sunday the 27th, we had difcovered three veflels
coming from the Weft. On the 2d of February, feeing that
- . ' they
"t
m
H
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. ^ -ff X-».i ■' -vdVMW-^r^-t-'
..v4>-3A^
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN.
«63
they did not come into the bay, we fet fail for the Streights of
MagelV"" The weather was rather changeable during our
paflTage. Jn Taefday the 12th of February, we had a profpef):
of Cape Lookout, on the Patagonian coalV. After having tacked
about, we found ourfelves within cannon fliot of a hirktng rock
as large as our longboat, which we had a great de^l of trouble
to get clear of, on account of the currents, and the roughnefs
of the fea. This rock is not pointed out in our charts. On
Saturday the i6th we obferved three veflels ileering the fatpe
courfe that we did. On the 17th we entered the Streights of
Magellan, together with the three fhips. On Monday the 1 8t|i,
one of the three (hips working to windward while we were at
anchor, fhe ftruck on a fand bank. The \yeather \yas very fine.
We fent our boats to her afliftance, with an officer, with
anchors and cables; but (he foon difengaged herfelf, and got off
without injury. We then found out that they were EngUfli *.
On
f This was in reality Commodore Byron's fmall fquadron. The hA is told
in the printed account of bis voyage round the world, in the following terms :
** At four in the afternoon, the mailer of the ftorefliip (the Florida) came on
board the Dolphin, bringing a packet from the Lords of the Admiralty to the
Commodore. — He had likipwife been fevera! days in fearch of Pepys's ifland, but
was like us obliged to defift. — To our great furprize in the morning of the fecond
day, after we left the harbour in company with the Tamer and ftorelbip, we
diicovered a ftrange fail, which indeed put us into no fmall confternation. The
Commodore was inclined to believe, that this fhip was a Spanifli man of war
of the line, who having got intelligence of our voyage, was come to intercept us ;
and in confequence of that furmife, boldly gave orders, that all on board the
Dolphin and Tamer (hould prepare for a warm reception, by firing all our guns,
and then boarding her from both (hips } but while we were bringing to, and
waiting for her, we found it grew dark, and we foon loft fight of her till the
next morning, when we faw her at anchor, at three leagues diftance, and there-
fore continued failing towards Port Famine. We however found that fhe ftill
followed us, though at a great diftance, and even came to an anchor when we
did. On the 20th we were chiefly employed in getting up our guns ; we foon
got fourteen upon the deck, and then came to an anchor, having the Tamer
aftern, with a fpring on our cable.
Thus bufily were we employed in taking all the meafures prudence^ould fug-
geft, to defend us from an imaginary danger ; when an unlucky accident, which
happened to the ftoreOiip, (hewed that we had nothing to fear, and that the
veuel, againft which we were arming ourfelves, ought not to be conlideicd as aa
O o enemy ;
lU
a64
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
On Wedncfilay the 20th, the EngHHi anchored in Port Famine,
and \vc failed on till the 2 1 ft, when we caft anchor at the
diftancc of five leagues from the Englifli, and CviUed the place
tlic Eagle's bay, as it has no name on the charts. The next
day, being the 2 2d, M. de Bougainville difcovcring a very fine
bay or port, at the diftance of one league and a half to the
South, wc went there and fallened the fiiip to four trees very
much under fhtlter, at the diftance of a league from the French
bay. We called it Bougainville bay. We took in fome very
fine wood here and fhipped it conveniently, by hauling on board
with a hawfer the wood cut upon ihe Ihore. We flayed here
till the 16th cf March, it being all the time very fine weather.
On the 25th of February, two Englifli vefiels, going to the
South Seas, pafled by us. On the 16th of March in the morn-
ing, after having left a French flag, hoifted upon a hut,
and feveral doaths, kettles, hatchets, and other utenfils neceflary
for the favages, we kt f.ul. After having gone a league a calm
came on, and we call our anchor in Eagle's bay. On the 17th
it being calm, M. de Bougainville met fome of the favages as
he wa> out a fliooting. He went up to them, and they appeared
very gentle. On Tuefday the 1 9th we fet fail again ; and on
the 2oth in the morning, the wind being againft us, we
inchored i. Port Famine. On the 21ft in the morning, fome
cf the favages calling out to us, v/e went up to them. They
ex>trelled a great defirc of coming on board : wc therefore took
fix of them along with us, whom we entertained, and who did
not appear to be much fui prized. They arc a fet of men much
like
enemy ; for while the ftorcfliip was working fo the windward, flie took the fhore
on a hank about two leagues Ironi our (liip. About the fame time, the ftrange
ftiip came up with her, call anchor, aiul immediately began to hoift out her long-
boats, to give her aflilbntc. Dut before they had come to the ftorcfliip, our
own boats had boarded her, and the commanding officer had received orders
not to let them come on board, but to thank them in the politeil manner for
their intended aflillance. We afterwards found this to be a French vefl'el ; and
having no guns that we could fee, fuppofcd it to be a merchantman, who had
come to thofe parts for wood and water.— On the 2ift we got into Port Famine,
vhcre we moored our fliips."
STRE GHTS OF MA#ti-LAN.
265
like the Indians or Mon' ^o, ha | no ot ler drefs than the
Ikins of Sea- Wolves, Gu,. ..ucs, ai Vicunas ; they appear vir/
poor, have no tafte foi nt, but are very fond of fat. We
dreired them in red cloutiis, and gave them fcveral nccefTary
domcftic utenfils j we tlien accompanied them to land ; crying
out all the way five k Roi de FrancCy wliich they rcpeatcil after
us very well. We left a flag difplayed. They cxprefTc much
good-will towards us, giving us their bows and arrows. When
we faw them they were painted wliitc, and in fpots, but as foon
as we had given them fome red lead, not cinnabcr vermillion,
they immediately painted themfclvcs with it -, and feemed to be
fond of this colour. As we were returning to the fliip, they
faluted us with Vive le Roi in French, having remembered that
expreflion 5 and then they hollowed after their own manner,
{landing all round the flag. As we got farther from them, they
raifed their fliouts, and increafcd their fires.
This is nearly all I can tell you of thefe inhabitants of Pata-
gonia. We did not land on the Terra del Fuego. I believe
thefe are nearly the fame kind of people as thofe who crofs the
Streights, in their canoes made of the bark of a tree. The firft
time we faw them, they had kinds of hatchets $ but they took
care to conceal them afterwards, as . well as their wives and
children.
At length, on Saturday the 23d of March, we failed out of
that famous ftreight fo much dreaded, after having experienced
there, as well as in other places, that it was very tine and very
warm ; and that three-founhs of the time the fea was per-
fectly calm.
It is remarkable that the fea tbbs as it enters on the northern
fide : we had a proof of this every day : in the middle the
currents are diftingui (liable, but in the n.uTowefl parts of
the entrance they are very Ihong ; they run at leart two leagues
and a half, and Ihik about four fathoms.
There is no wood at the entrance of the Streights, neither oii
one fide nor the other. There are nothing but immenD plains.
O o 2 About
^6
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
About four and twenty leagues up the country, both on the
coaft of Patagonia, and on the Terra del Fuego, the woods
begin. Wc found very little game, and that much followed by
the natives, very little fi(h, and in the places where we had
been, none of thofc beautiful fhell fifli fo much admired.
At length we fteered our courfe in order to pafs to the South
of the Danicant idands. On Tuefday the 26th, we came within
fight of land, which was the country to the Weft of the
Malouine Ulands, about fourfcore leagues diftant from Cape
Virgin, which forms the entrance of the Strcights. We afterwards
failed fifty leagues to come back to cad anchor in the port } fo
that we may reckon that we had pafled by fifty leagues of the
coaft to the fouthward, which is not however its greateft length,
as there is a ftreight which divides the North and South lands
without any woods. On the 29th of March we caft anchor in
the fame place where we did before, having almoft always had
fine weather. We unladed our wood, and on the a/ih of
April we fet fail for France, leaving 79 perfons in the Malouine
Idands. Our pafTage was rather tedious, by reafon of the calm
weather which obliged us to put into harbour, on account of
the few provifions we had remaining, having left as many as we
could behind us. On the 1 8th of July wc put into the harbour
at Angra in the ifland of Tercera, where we fupplied ourfelves
with plenty of every thing, having found there all we wanted.
On the 25th we left this harbour, and on the 13th of Augufl
arrived at St. Malo.
St. Malo,
I ft September, 1765.
I am, SIR,
Your very humble Servant,
ALEXANDER DUCLOS GUYOT.
I was
STREIOHTS OF MAGELLAN. 267
I was not at Paris when M. dc Bougainville returned, being
gone to Montbrifon in Forez. He fent me the following letter,
which M. de Bougainville de Nerville his coufin, who was left
commander at the Malouine Iflandj, had conHniflioncd him to
deliver to me. It was accompanied with a letter from him,
which I (hall give at the end of this.
If I had thought, Sir, you would have had the complaifance
to go and keep my mother company in her folitudc, I fhould
not have omitted mentioning you to her, and defiring that
favour of you. She fays fo many handfome things of you, and
you fpeak fo well of her, that I have rcafon to conclude you
equally fatisfied with each other. I am very glad to Hnd that
her company is fo agreeable to you, and at the fame time am
much flattered in thinking myfelf fometimes the fubje6t of
your converfation.
I (hall now fay fomeihing to you about our fituation. I
have nothing particular to tell you about the winter we pafled here.
It has not been feverc j for there never was fnow enough to
cover one's fhoe-buckles, nor a fufRcient depth of ice to fuppcrt
a (lone as big as one's flfl: : and if it had not been for the rain,
which runs through our tents as through a fieve, we Ihould
have had very little occafion for fire, which we were now obliged
to make in order to dry ourfelves. You would not have known
our colony again had you returned with M. de Bougainville. In
the firft place you would have found us all very fat, the air being
very healthy. You would have found all along the place where
we live a fine walk of fmooth even ground, and upwards of
twenty feet wide j a new magazine raifed again upon the border
of the fea ; a fort completely repaired placed on a level, with
platforms made with flat ftones under the cannons ; a new pow-
der magazine, a bakehoufe, and a forge. By the account we
kept, we killed above 1 500 buflards in the feafon -, for there is
a time when they leave this country and go away to other parts,
except a few ftraggling pairs whole eggs we never could find j
but only their young ones which were always fix in number.
7 One
P,
IK
1
268
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
One brood of thefe was brought me, and was taken care of
by one of our hens as her own. I was in hopes of fending thenr
to France, but fince my coufin's arrival here, they have expe-
rienced a number of evils, and have at length all periflied by
the niifchievous tricks of the fliip-boys who came to land : fo
that I muft put this off till another (eafon. We have made the
difcovery of a bird much more beautiful than the buftard, which
is a kind of fwan, as large and as white, but whole neck is as
black as jet, and his bill red. We have not been able to kill
any of them, as they arc extremely wild. By other difcovcries
which I have made in the ifland more than twenty leagues to
the Weft, it appears that the part we dwell in is detached from
other adjacent iflands, or joined only by an Iilhmus. We may
perhaps come at the true knowledge of this by means of the
fchooner which is to be left with us. The ftudy of natural
hiftory, which we have not negleded, has furniflied us with
fcveral of thofe concha; called Poulettcs, or Gueiilc dc Raye.
There are few of thofe you fent me the drawings of to be
found in good prefervation. The Patellar, you know, are com-
mon here. We have great expedlation from our agriculture,
our kitchen garden having fucceeded very well. With regard to
the corn, it produced in the dry land fome beautiful ears j but
tiicy were fine only in appearance, having no grain within
them. Our lands having been yet unfown require a longer
time for cultivation, and muft even be improved with good
dung. We have not a fufficient quantity of beafts to make any
trials witli them. Four of our heifers and our three horfcs are
always in the open field ; ami wc have never been able to catch
them again, but their wandering difpofition has made us ac-
quainted with one of the great advantages of this country :
which is, that cattle may remain in all feafcns, day and night,
in the open fields, without being in want of either pafture or
litter. We often meet with one or other of them when we go
out a fliootingi they arc as fat as hogs, and their liberty feims
10 agree very well with them. I return you many thanks for
I the
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN.
269
the trouble you have taken in executing my commifllons, and
have received the things. I am making up a cheft of the fliells,
feeds, and ftones of this country j if you happen to be in the
way when my coufm arrives he will fiiew them to you. They
fay you have put a (hell into the cabinet of the Abbe of St.
Germain, which is the only one of its kind. If that (hell has
been found here, be fo kind as to fend me a drawing of it.
From the Malouiiic Iflands, -
25th of April 1765.
DE NERVILLE..
The following is M. de Bougainville's letter.
I am at laft returned, my dear fellow-traveller. At my arrival
I found I (hould not be able to fee you, which gives me a great
deal of concern. Be alfured that no one interefts himfelf more
than I do in every thing that concerns you j and that I would
have given any thing in the world, if you would have accom-
panied me in the fecond voyage. We have made an alliance
with the Patagonians, who have been fo ill fpoken of, and we
have found them neither taller, nor even fo wicked as other
men. I fend you a letter from my coufin, who has behaved
admirably well. None of our people have ever been feized with
a fever. The winter has neither been feveie nor long, and the
edablifliment fucceeds very well. I brought them this year my
(liip full of the finelt wood in the world, whicli I had from
my friends the Patagonians. I have not at prefent time to
enter into any more particukirs, having not a moment to lofe.
I believe I am going to be fcnt into Spain, to fettle ibme things
with that Court relative to our new ertablilhment. I beg you
would let mc hear from you,
Paris,
Auguft 26, 1755,
and am, Sec. .
DE BOUGAINVILLE. •
M.de'
270
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
M. de Bougainville was lent into Spain and fettled matters
between that Court and the Court of France, refpefling the
cefTion which the latter made to the Spanilh of the Malouine
Iflands; and M. de Bougainville fet out from Nantz in 1766, on
board a French frigate, and went to Buenos Ayres, taking a
Spanifh Governor from thence, and fome troops of the fame
nation, to put them in pofleffion of the aforefaid iflands. Before
he went away, he communicated to me the obfervations he had
made on the Streights of Magellan, together with a correct
chart of thefe StreiglUs, which is among the plates, as well as
a chart of the Eafl:, North, and South coafts of the Malouine
Iflands, which they had pafled by in going and coming back
through thefe Streights. By this chart, one can judge only of
the extent of the Malouine Iflands to the North and South, the
weftern part not having yet been difcovered. The Englifli who
fettled themfelves in 1765 at Port Egmont, fituated more to the
Wefl: than the French eftablifliment, may hereafter give us fome
informations with regard to thofe parts yet unknown.
M. Alexander Duclos Guyot, and M. Chenard de la Gyrau-
dais, having communicated to me the journals of their voyage
tkey made together to the Streights of Magellan in 1766, with
leave to make extradls from them ; I have thought neceflary to
give tliefe to the public, as well on account of the ufeful obfer-
vations they contain relative to currents, the nature of the fea,
and the coafts which form the Streights, as to fettle the
doubts of many learned men and others, upon the real exiftence
of the Patagonian giants.
Extrad of the journal of M- Alexander Ducbs Guyot, Lieu-
tenant of a frigate, on board the Eagle frigate, in the Streights
of Magellan, in 1766.
On the 24th of April, we fet fail from Acarron bay at the
Malouine Iflands. On the 26th, one of the Sebald iflands that
lies
STR EIGHTS OF MAGELLAN.
271
lies moft to the North Weft, bore S. W. ^ S. of us, diftance
40 miles.
On the 28th in the morning, we faw a great quantity of
whales and pini^uins. At noon Cape las Barreras bore Weft
of us nine Iciigucs.
On the firft of May, at half an hour paft fevcn, we fteered
W. S. W. in order to have a view of the land of Patagonia. At
nine o'clock, bearing round the bank which is at the entrance
of the Streights of Magellan, the fea was changed, its waters
being like thofe of a river made muddy by rains.
On Saturday the 3d of May, at eight o'clock, Cape Virgin bore
N. N. ~ N. W. three leagues and a half, or four leagues. The
moft weftern part of the Terra del Fuego S. W. I S. Cape
Santo Spirito S. S. E. Cape Poflefllon W. 4 S. W. I think
there are not lefs than feven leagues from one point of land to
another at the entrance of the Streights.
On Sunday the 4th, at break of day, we were about four
leagues S. E. of Cape Poffeflion. There is a ridge of rocks and
a fand bank near Cape Orange. It extends a great way, fo we
were obliged to coaft the land of Patagonia. Here we faw a
fire upon the fliore, and drawing nearer to it perceived fome
men on horfeback, and many others on foot. When we came
oppofite to them, they called out to us, but we aid not under-
ftand their language. We anfvvered them with fliouts, and
hoifted our flag. Five of them followed us about two leagues
round the coaft, but night coming on we loft fight of them.
They feemed to be good horfemen, managing their horfes well,
which were very a6\ive.
We hardly perceived any currents in the narrows, where it was
almoft a calm. This entrance in hs narroweft part is a full league
over. At five o'clock in the evening, we anchored in Boucaut
bay, in nine fathoms and a half water, with a bottom of
rotten ftiells.
Pp
REMARKS
1^
III
\'^
•;:■?:
C 27* J
i^ii't-''
REMARKS on the TIDES.
IN the laft voyage, I had obferved, when we came into the
firfl narrows^ that the tide was coming in, and I reckoned it
was the beginning of flood. I did not however perceive on the
fhore that the fea rofe confiderably $ at which I was the more
furprifed, as all failors agree in faying that it does ; neither was
the fnore wet, as it generally is when the fea retires. On
coming, out we were two hours and three quarters making
feven or eight knots, without getting on half a league. When
the current diminilhed, and we had failed half-way up the
Streight, I perceived on its banks that the water had juft fallen
at leaft four fathoms perpendicular. This obfervation induced
me to imagine that when it is flood the fea goes out on the
northern fide ; but on the contrary, when it is ebb, it comes in,
and bears to the South. ; :^^:Jr-::''^'::iii'.5::'^ r'-\T.''' rr-'^c-'
^When we went along Cape Orange, we perceived a very ex-
tenfive ^fiat fandy fliore, which we took for the open fea at
coming in, being concealed, as all the ridges and banks of Cape
Orange are, which we could not fee. This confirms me in my
opinion, which is contrary to the fentiments of all thofe who
have failed in thefe Streights before me. This day the tide was
coming out, and was againft us for fome time ; neverthelefs
the tide was very high when it began to bear to the South.
Then all the banks and ridges were concealed, as well as the
flat ftrands and Ihores which we had feen wet when we came
out. I obferved, that the tide bore in till nine o'clock. The fea
had then fallen four feet perpendicular : afterwards coming out
again it rofe three fathoms; then there was a little interval
v.'ithout any ftream, notwithflanding which it ftill rofe one
afterwards the fea took its courfe again, when it neither
fell while we went two-thirds of a league in an hour.
It
fathom :
rofe nor
■\'is.-
ff<^
ri^'"
^^ '^..^s^^^fr^
-.^»,',— -- -— ■
m
% i'
IM' '
'■ : ^;^ 'h
^^^vr.;"^"\
ll
' ■ ■ t
M
kI
•
'■■'■J. HV
OBSERVATIONS, &c. |.0
273
iK.^^iJ ' '
It afterwards fell without any current ; which made me think
the currents were not regular ; and that in bays, the turn of the
tide is caufcd by i\c fwell. I fufp^nd the determination of this
point, till it is confirmed by farther obfervations. v • -^ ' . •
We perceived about three o'clock in the afternoon, that the
fea began to enter into the narrows, the Moon being 26 days old ;
which would make the fituation of the narrows E. and W. fo
that it would be high water there at twelve minutes paft fix
o'clock on the day of new and full moon. • ♦ ^ "^ ; f^ f'
On Tuefday the 6th, the favages appeared about nine o'clock
in the morning, and were kindling a fire on the fhore by the
Imall river Baudran. We hoilled our flagj and M. de la Gyrau-
dais his broad pendant. Afterwards we bath put our yawl and
longboat to fea withlrten armed with mUflcVte and cuHaffes. In
M. de la Gyraudais's longboat was an officer with prefetits for
the favages. In my yawl, we had feven failors and three officers
under the command of my brother. At eleven o'clock we fav^
them laiid, and fome meh on horfcback who received them $
which appeared to me a good omen of peace. Nothing partii-
cular happened till twelve o'cloek.
My brothers account was, that the favages, who arc natives bf this
country, were not the fame as thofe we faw laft year in Savage
bay, and that they fpbke a different language. "There were fix
men and one woman who had but fix horfes, each guarded by
a dog who never leaves them.
They received our people very well, coming up to them to
fhew them where they fhould put into the fhoic and land.
They did not appear furprifed nor (hew the leaft fign of emotion.
We meafured the (horteft of them, and my brother found him
5 feet 7 inches high French meafure. The reft were confi-
derably taller. They were covered with the fkins of deer, gua-
nacocs, vicunas, otters, and other anirtials. Their arms are
round ftones, whofe ends are lengthened out and pointed. The
round part is fixed to the end of a ftring compofed of feveral
narrow ftraps, twifted and interwoven into a round form like
"f P p 2 the
.-.if.
II
i
i
'Wi
ijiUJ
'-i ■
■^•%^ri
274
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
the firing of a clock, and making a kiixi of fling. At the other
end of the ftring is another ftone in form of a pear, not more
than half as big as the other, and appearing as if it was wrapt
up in a bladder.
They ufe ihefe weapons chiefly to catch animals ; at which
fport they are very dextrous, as they fli .wed our people by an
experiment made in their prefence. They have alfo other llings
nearly of the fame kind of conftrudtion. They manage their horles
with great dexterity, and have a kind of faddle, very much like
that we ufe for packhorfcs. Thefe faddles are made with two pieces
of wood, covered with leather and fluffed with draw. The bit
of the bridle is a fmall flick, and the reins are twifled as the
firings of their flings. They wear a kind of bufkins or half
boots, of fkin with the fliag on, and two pieces of wood fitted
to each fide of the heel, joined together in a point, which ferve
them for I'purs. Their breeches are very fhort drawers, much
refembling thofe of the favagcs of Canada, and are of a very
good cut. It is evident they have had fome intercourfe with the
Spaniaids, from their having a very thin two-edged knife, which
they place between their legs. Their bulkins are made like thofe
of the Indians of Ciiili. They pronounced fome words which
were either Spanifh, or derived from that language. On point-
ing out the perlbn who Teemed to be their chief, they called him
Capitajt. When they wanted to fmoke and alked for tobacco,
they faid Chupan.
They fmoke in the fame manner as the inhabitants of
Chili, throwing out the fmoke by their noflrils j and are ex-
tremely fond of a pipe. While they were fmoking they cried
Buenos, ftriking themfelves upon the breafl.
We gave them fome new bread, and fome fca-bifcuir, which
they eat with great appetite. The prelents we made them con-
fifled in fome pounds of that red which we call vermilion : and
fome red woollen caps, which however not one of them could
put his head into : thefe caps though very large for heads of a.
common
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN.
275
common fize, were ftill too fmall for them. We alfo gave them
fome bedding, fome hatchets, fome kettles, and other utcnfils.
My brother put his pocket-handkerchief round the neck of
the chief; who having accepted of it, immediately loofencd his
girth, made of llraps twifted together like the girth of a faddlc,
having at each extremity a ball of ftone half iuclofed with
leather. There was alfo another ftone fixt to the middle of
the belt, and a whetftone. He gave this belt to my brother,
and faftened it round his waift, exprefling much friendfliip for
him. We gave them to underftand we were going on much far-
ther in the Streights, and they made us comprehend by figns,
that they would go to bed as foon as the fun did, fliewing us
at the fame time that they would lie down, and making a noife
as if they were fnoring in their fleep.
As foon as our boats had quitted them and got out to Tea,
they mounted on horfeback, and directed their courfe towards the
place to which we had made them underftand we were going.
They feem to be crafty, bold people, being more inclined to
receive than to give. They wrap themfelves up in beafts Ikins
fewed together, as the Spaniards do in their clokes. Our people
killed fome partridges ; faw fome wolves, foxes, and a great
number of rats, but nothing curious^
On Thurfday at noon we caft anchor under the low lands of
Cape Gregory, in 25 fathoms of water.
/ifter dinner we put our yawls to fea to go a fifhing and
ihootin'^. They came back in the evening without having^
taken or killed any thing, excepting one mangy vicuna, whicli
M. Gyraudals fliot. There are numbers of vicunas in this
country, which is very beautiful. Our people faw a great quan-
tity of foxes, wolves, and rats, and met with fome few thickets
of yellow wood, but no water.
On Friday the ninth we ("et fail at day-break. At ten o'clock
we got into the (econd narrows, and fteered our courfe in oider to
pafs between the iflancis of St. Elizabeth and St. Bartholomew..
We afterwards anchored at 11 o'clock in the bay of Cape Noir,.
1^ I ■
m
—I
Zft
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
its point bearing N. N. W. 5 degrees N. where the wood begins
to appear.
In vifuing the woods wc found none but what was fit for fuel,
and fomc yellow wood. • The foil ajjpears pretty good as well
as the bay; into which we might have advanced mvjch farther,
the bottom being even : at 8 or 9 fathom of water, a fine fand,
and muddy nearer the land. In this bay one may be under
Ihelter from the N. N. E. by the W.
Wc took in filhing only one lai'ge Cornet, fome Grai-dos,
with a golden fifli, which was a kind of fmelt. Our fliooting
parties were much lefs fortunate. By the great quantity of
buftard's excrement we found fcattercd about in the bufhes,
we imagined, that that bird muft: be very j)lentiful here in the
feafon. There is no frcfli water here ; but there is a lake at the
diftance of a mile from the bottom of the bay.
On Saturday the loth, at four in the morning, the fea run-
ning eaftward, fell twelve fathoms perpendicular. This appears
contrary to all my fore-mentioned • obfervations i but it might
proceed from fome crofs tide.
We continued along the ccift of Patagonia, and found by
our foundings the depth of water increafe to 35 fathonis, muddy
bottom, as we advanced towards the South. The coaft is here
alfo bordered with finer wood, which is found in greater
quantities.
Having failed feven leagues in this direction, we came to the
opening of a fmall bay, where we met with a point, even with
the furface of the water, and extending half a league out.
Wc had ("carce failed one quarter of a league, after finding no
foundings with a hundred fathoms, when all at once we met
with no more than feventeen fathoms depth of water, and a little
farth.r on, only eight fathoms, then five, then four and a half,
with a tine Candy muddy bottom. Soon after the depth in-
crtafcd to five and twenty fathoms. It is to be obferved that
it was hii;h vater. Perhaps the flialloweft of thefe places
would nut have been covered at low water. There is no
wood
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN
27r
wood upon this point, which is about feven leagues from Cape
Noir ; and the bank is one league South Eall of this point.
This bank is not marked on the charts of tlie Strcights j althougli
it is very dangerous, being in the middle of the bay ; which I
imagine to be that called Frclhwatcr, by its dillance fiom Port
Famine. There are two fmall rivers here, and fome very line
wood ; and it anfwers cxadlly the defcription given of j.t by the
Englilhman, who named it Frelhwater bay.
We anchored foon after in Port Famine, which we founded,
and found it good in every part. One may coaft St. Ann's point
at two cables length without danger, if forced to it by the wind j
the leaft depth of water there is five or fix fathoms, which in-
creafes gradually to twenty-five at the diftance of a quarter of.
a league : but one muft not anchor here, becaufe the bottom is
rocky, and there is a ftrong current. At the South Weft of this
point there is a bank one cable's length from land, which is not
three feet under water at low tide.
When the wind will allow of it, it is better to keep out a
full mile from St. Ann's point, on account of the current ; and
left there fliould ftill be fome lurking rocks under water, which
may have efcaped our notice : one may caft anchor in eicfht or
ten fathoms water, rather towards St. Ann's point, tlian towards
the South ; for here the depth of the fea fuddenly diminilhes
even at high water, as well as in the bottom, where, at
low water, there appears a fhallow, uncovered for more than a
quarter of a league.
On Saturday the 1 7th, we founded the fmall bays to the North of
St. Ann's point, where we found fome banks, extending far out.
On Sunday the i8th, we lent after dinner all our carpenters
on Ihore, to cut fome wood for burning and building ; which
was the reafon of our being fent here, as well as to fetch away
fome trees for planting.
On Wednefday the aStb, M. de la Gyraudais being laden and
ready, fct; fail at feven in the morning to return to the Malouine
lUandj.
6 On
I'l'
i
I
ayS
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
On Friday the 30th, in the morning, I perceived fome favagcs
upon the fandy ifland, which forms the South entrance of the
bay where we had left them the year hcfore. I went to them,
and knew them to be the fame favagcs. They were iwo and
twenty men, without women or boats. Having no } relents to
give them, and not being able to make them comprehend me,
I embarked again.
On Sunday the ift of June, early in the morning, the favages
made fome figns to us } but the bad weather prevented us tiom
coming to them. They made us underftand, that they wilh'.'d
we fliould get into the river with our yawl.
On the 2d, two of the favages appeared at the bottom of the
bay, calling out to us in their language. I fent an officer
in the yawl, to alk them if they would come on board. On the
arrival of the yawl they fled towards the river beckoning us to
follow them. The officer thought it more prudent not to do it,
and came on board again. At eleven o'clock we faw them come
out again in fix canoes. They eroded the bay, pafllng within
muflcet-Hiot of us, but would not come on board : they went
and landed in a little creek under St. Ann's point. As I had
put fix men in this place to cut fire-wood, and the favages were
very numerous, I immediately armed the yawl and the longboat,
and went to meet them. At my arrival, fome of them were
employed in building their huts ; others were fifliing for fliell-
fiOi, mufcles, patellae, fea-urchins, crabs, bucinna, taking all
thefe only from the rocks. Notwithftanding this they have nets
made with cat-gut. -
After havin^^ renewed the alliance made laft year, I diftri-
buted preCents among them, confifting in fome pounds of ver-
milion, fome woollen b^d-cloaths, fmall looking-glafles, chalk,
knives, ibmc clokcs, a hatchet, bread, &c. They would not
tafte aiy wine. 1 did not thufe to offer them brandy, left their
acceptance of it might be attended with dangerous confcquences.
Their company apj)cared to confift of twenty- fix men or boys,
and forty women and girls, among whom were a great number
of
STREIGHTS OF MAGfiLLAN. J79
ef young people. The Chief of them is called Pacha-chui. He
is didinguifhed from the red by a cap of blids (kins with the
feathers on. When he receives any vifits he puts it on his head,
which is, no doubt, meant as a mark of his dignity. The pre-
fence of the men, who Teemed exceflively jealous, obliged the
women to alllime an appearance of great modedy.
I quedioned the Chief as well as I could about his religion.
He gave me to underftand, at lead I thought I comprehended
by his figns, that they neither worfhip the fun, moon, men, nor
animals, but only the heavens or the whole univerfej this he
repeated feveral times, always lifting up his hands joined toge-
ther over his head.
During this time they continued throwing upon the fire,
without any ceremony, all the wood cut down by our people.
This obliged me to fend my fix men to cut wood at a greater
didance from thefe favages, to avoid quarrelling with them.
Tiiey exchanged with our people fome bows and arrows, and
ibme necklaces of fliells in return for cloaiihs. I then left them,
and invited them to come on board. Four of them accepted
my invitation. I made them dine with me, and entertained
them in the bed manner I could. They preferred bacon to every-
thing elfe. Their defert was a candle to each, which they de-
voured with great eagernefs. When dinner was over, 1 had
them drcflcd from head to foot, and gave them fome trifles with
which they appeared very much plcafed j and then fent them
to land.
In the afternoon I returned to the huts of the favages. The
Pacha-chui came to meet me, and made me a prefent of a kind
of flint to drike fire, like thofe which are found in Canada, ap-
pearing to be a marcafite of yellow copper. He afterwards
dilbibuted the prefents I had made them in the morning.
One of them was continually muttering; I alked him the
reafon of this. He gave me to underdand that he was faying
his prayers, by pointing up to the heavens as the Pacha-chui
had done in the morning. This feemed to imply that they wor-
Q^q (hipped
iKl
I
I*
mi
*
ill'
II!
iKi
l«.
II'
\V
I
I
2?0
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
fhipped fome divinity, but I could not comprehend what the
divinity was, nor under what title he was adored.
Both men and women have no other drefs than the fkins of
fea-wolves, vicunas, guanacoes, otters, and lynxes, which they
throw on their fhouldcrs. Moft of them are bare-headed. A
bird's Ikin with the feathers on, covers their private parts. The
men call themfelves Pach-pacbevi i the women Cap-cap. They
taught me thefe names by (hewing me firft their perlbns, and
afterwards the parts which diftinguifh the fex. Both men and*
women are thin. Their canoes are ill-buik, in comparifon with
thofe of the favages of Canada. The women are the perfons-
employed ',i\ rowing and fifliing. They have a number of dogs,
refembling foxes; which they call Ouchi -, and their canoes^.
Sborou. ' '
It is to be obferved, that tne morning tides are always equal •
every moiningj rife very little in open fea, and are only as the
neap-tides.
On Wednefday morning the 4th, the favages made no fcruple
of burning five or fix cords of wood, which our people had cut
down, but they affifted in bringing the reft on board.
At noon the Pacha-chui came on board our frigate, attended
by eleven men. I made him dine with me, and gave the others
fomc biCcuit, and a piece of tallow; and for their drink three
pints of the oil of fea-wolves. They ate and drank all up with
a n:ort excellent appetite. I afterwards dreffed the Pacha-chui,
and giving fome trifles to the others, fent them all on fliore.
On the 6th, all tlie favages, pleafed with the reception I had
given their comrades, came in four canoes to pay me a vifit.
But as they had large fires in their canoes, I would not fuffer
them to come on board, at which they feemed difpleafed. I
ordered them fome bifcuit and oil ; and after dinner ient them
back without giving them any reafon for it.
On Sunday the 8th, the favages began to be trotiblcfomc :
they ftole feveral hatchets, fome provifions, and cloaths from us.
As they feemed inclinable to theft and fraud, I took the rcfo-
X lutioa
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN. 281
liitlon to let nobody lie on fliore, and to fubmit to the incon-
venience of having all the utenfils and tools brought back
every night.
On Monday the 9th, the favages ftole again fome harpoons,
hatchets, iron-wedges, and mauls. I complained of this to the
Pacha-chui, and defired our tools might be returned, but to no
purpofe. I then gave them to undcrftand, that if they perfirted
in thefe praftices, we fliould treat them in a different manner.
Their boat, which had crofled the bay lafl: night, now brought
them a dying man, about forty years of age, who was exceed-
ingly emaciated.
, In the afternoon, our wood-cutters reprefented to me, that
they loft a great deal of time in coming back to lie on board,
and then returning in the mornihg to the wood : they therefore
aflced have to lie on fliore. I confented to this, defiring them at
the fame time, to treat the favages mildly if they came to vlfit them.
For this purpofe, I placed a difcreet perfon at the head of
them, and with him his brother, a man of a mild difpofition,
and who, from being ufed to live among the lavages of Canada,
was in fome meafurc acquainted with their manners : and after
recommending it to them to keep a ftri6l watch left they fliould
be furprized, I returned to the fliip.
On Thurfday the 1 2th, about four o'clock in the morning,
we heard fome noife among the favages. Three of their canoes,
with a great number of women in them and fome men, came
up to our frigate. I gave them fome pieces of bread, and fome
oil of Ica-vvolves, the grcateft part of v.'hicli they put into a
kind of blatider they had brought on purpofe, and drank off the
reft. I would not furler tliem to come on board, on account of
their being fo much addided to theft, ami becaufe they had got
large fiies in their canoes. This day I obfervcd, contrary to
the common cuflom, that the men were not painted: only fome
few of them were painted bhck, which gave them a very fiight-
ful appearance. The women were ail fpottcd with black, having
tlieir faces and necks bloody, as if they had fcratched themfelves
Q^q 2 with
aSi
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
with thorns. Two of their canoes doubled St. Ann's poult"
going to the North.
On Sunday the 15th, in the morning, I went to pay a vifit fo
the favages. Not feeing the fick man, I afked them what was
become of him; they made me comprehend he was dead. The
cries we had heard on Thurfday morning were probably the
marks of their mourning. They feemed all very much afflidled,
and were all painted black, contrary to the ufual cuftom ; and
the women appeared fcratched all over, as if they had been torn
with pins. I obferved that they (hewed much regret for the
dead man. I aflced them by figns what they had done with him.
They anfwered me only by lifting up their hands to heaven,
repeating the fame figns feveral times, in order I fuppofe to
make me underfland the deceafed was there: from whence it
may be conjefturcd that they believe in a future ftate. They
would never tell me what they had done with the dead body. I
am inclined to think they had tranfported it in one of their
canoeSj with which they had doubled St. Ann's point. I diAri-
buted fome bifcuit and oil of fea-wolves amoi.g ^ rr«.
On Monday the 16th, I perceived two . r: ^ of favages
coming towards us, and all the reft going out of the bay. I
put myfelf into our yawl, taking fome bread and oil along with
me. When I came near them, I made them a fign to follow
me to land which they did very readily. I ga 'e them the bread
and oil. They broke up their camp, and thofe wh:; Ctaid be-
hind were gathering up the remains of it. They made me
underftand that they were going to live at the diftance o." a league
from that place, in one of the fmall bays to the North of St.
Ann's point, becaufe the (hell-fifli became fcarce in the place
where they were. The Pacha-chui was in one of the two boats,
and was coming with an intention to thank me, and to apprize
me of his departure.
I then ventured to alk him, if any of his young people would
come away with us, making him underftand as well as I could,
that I would bring him back in a twelvemonth. He anfwered
by
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN. 183
by figtis that he confented, and immediately prefented one of
them to me, who feemed fatisfied. We then left each other, and
I brought away my young favage with me, to put him on board.
I drefled him, and entertained him as well as I could. The Chief
went out of the bay to join hi? troop.
On Tuefday the 17th our favage feemed to be pleafed with
us J and even looked contented and chearful. About ten o'clock,
feventeen favages coming by land from a fmall bay which lay
North of' us, and where they were encamped, paid a vifit to
their companion: We went to meet them, taking him along
with us } and I gave them ibme bread dnd oil for their breakfafl.
As we were going back, another of them alked leave to come
on board to- (lay with his comrade. As the offer was voluntary
I took him along with vae.
Towardis ftx ^o'clock in the evening, I perceived that our two
favages were fo melancholy as even to flied tears, and that th-y
were conftantly looking towards land. I was not at a lofs to
find out the caufe of this uneafmefs ; and thought it natural
that they muft on reflc6tion regret the relblution they had taken.
Notwithftanding my defire of bringing them away, iiv hopes
that I might afterwards receive fome ufeful information from
them, I determined to fend them back, and redore them to that
liberty which they certainly imagined they had loft. I made
them get into our yawl, and had them condu^led back to land.
They exprefled much joy when they carae on fliore, and delired
they might go to their families.
On Wednefdayj at 9 o'clock, they came to afk for feme bread
and oil. I ordered fome to be diftributed to them, and having
aflifted in loading our longboat, they went back to their firft
encampment. At four o'clock in the afternoon tliey left us,
making me underftand that they were going to reft; becaufe the
moon, which they, call Sercon was up; but that they would come
beak, and bring with them* the two young men who had been
on board of us. When we got back to our fliip, we heard two
guns fire } the fignal agreed upon between us to call for help, in
cafe
284
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
cafe we fhould be attacked by the favages. I then fufpefted that
our people were engaged with them. I imr!^'.-:''"itt']y had our
boats armed, and fent them to their a(ii.!:?»nce, but iC was too late :
the vi6Vory was already gained, and the favages routed when we
landed. The affair happened in the following manner :
Twenty, or fix and twenty favages, as we were told, came
down fecretly and filcntly through the wood behind the work-
lliop } and three of them entered fuddenly into the hut where
our people were, who thinking that the favages fecmed to have
fome mifchievous defign, placed themfelves at the entrance of the
hut to hinder the reft from coming in. They then attempted
to force their way, and not fucceeding fell upon our men,
. fome attempting to feize their legs, in order to throw them
down, and probably to bind them, being provided with large
flr^ps in form of flings, having at the end a dart about fix inches
long, made of a jagged bone ; the refl beat them with large flicks.
Our people, though they were furprized at fo fudden a declaratjoii
of war, were not difcouraged. They fcized their cutlafTcs, and
exerted themfelves bravely againft their enemies, deflroying as
many of them as they could j by which means they threw the
favages into confufion and routed them : our people however
were but feven againft twenty-live : three favages remained dead
upon the field of battle, exclufive of the wouiuied ; three of our
people were wounded j the mafter carpenter received ftvei al
blows upon the head with a ftick ; another was dangeroufly
wounded in the head with a cutiafs ; and his brother was cut on
the hand with the fame inftrument, which has quite difablcd
him. The wounded were drclled as fbon as they came on board.
One of the three was afterwards trepanned.
On Friday the 20th, in tlie morning, 1 font the longboat to
fetch away tiie timber, and to bury the three favages in the fame
grave. After having raifed the ground to a certain height, we
placed their fkins or cloaks, with their Oioes on the top, that the
other favages might find out tlie place where their dead com-
panions lay ; and that they fliould not think we had eaten them ;
which
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN. 285
which perhaps they Might do, if they were unable to find the
dead bodies.
On Sunday the 22d, we were at the entrance of the narrows ;
and at eleven o'clock we faw feveral fires on the low lands of
Cape Gregory. In coaf^ing thefe, we difcovered about 90 or
100 men, moft of them on horfeback, who followed us to the
place of anchorage} thinking, without doubt, that we fliould
anchor there. But I was prevented by the win 1 blowing frefli,
and the weather being favourable for failing out of the Streights,
We made twelvt leagues fmcc morning, the favages making
figns to us all the while. At nine o'clock in the evening we
cleared Cape Virgin, and left the Streights. . .,. v, .•
Remarks made in 1766 in the Streights of Magellan, from Cape
Virgin to Cape Rond ; by M. de la Gyraudais, Lieutenant of a
Frigate, al prefent Captain of a fire-Jhip, 1 - i ;: ,,
C'^APE Virgin is of the fame height as Cape Frehel, in the '
J road of St. Malo, and has the fame form. At two leagues
and a half weftward, it fends forth a low point, which extend?
a league out at fea to the Soath^ with a ridge of rocks, which
is covered by the tide at two cables length from this point ; and
againlt which the fea breaks with gieat violence. This ridge is
not marked upon the chart of the Streights, : ^y more than a
bay in which we anchored. T-lie-coaft is rather high and found,
fiom Cape Virgin to Cape Pofl'efTion. One may fail along it at
the dirtance of half a league without any danger. PoUeirion bay
is large. It ihelters fhips from the wind, from the W. S. VV.
to the N. E. pafiing by the N. It may cafily be known by M.
..•
The words they pronounced were, Echounit Cbaoa, Didon, a&i,
ahit olif Choven, ^^calU, Machariy Naticon, Pito. Thefe were the
only words our people could gather, while they were warming
themfelves at their Bres.
M. de St. Simon, an officer, who by order of the miniftry
embarked with us for the Malouine Iflands with prefents for the
natives, acquitted himfelf extremely well of his commiffion. He
gave them fome harpoons, bludgeons, bedding, woollen caps,
vermilion, and in fhort every thing he thought would be moil
agreeable to them. They appeared very well pleafed.
They are clothed with the fkins of guanacos, vicunas, and
other animals, fewed together in form of fquare clokes which
reach below the calf of the leg almoll to the ancle. They have
a fort of buikins or half-boots, made of the fame ikins, with the
fhag on the inlide, as it is alfo in their clokes, which are very
well fewed together in regular compartments, and painted on
the outfide with blue and red figures, bearing a refemblance lo
Chinefe charaders. The figures however are almoft all alike,
and divided by ftraight lines which form forts of fquares and
lozenges *. They have fomething like hats ornamented with
feathers, much in the fame manner as ours. Some of thefe hats
refemble very much the Spanifli caps.
Several of our people went a (hooting at fome diftance, where
they killed a few partridges, and faw fome carcafes of vicunas.
R r 2 The
* M. de la Gyraudais received as a prefent from thefe Patagonians, when he
vifitcd them at his return .'^o the Malouine Iflands, feveral of their clokes, fome
of their weapons, fome Hrngs armed with ftones, and fome iieciclaces of ihells
from their women. He brought them to Paris, and gave part of them to M.
d'Arboulin, who had fome of them prefentcd to the King, and icept the reft. I ex-
amined them at Icifurc, and although I am rather more than five feet feven inches
(French nieafure) one of thefe clokes thrown on my fhoulders, (as the Piita*
gonians wear them) trailed on the ground at leaft a foot and a half.
290
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
The country tlicy went over is uncultivated, barren, and dry.
There is notliing but heath upon it, and very little grafs. The
horfes of the favages fccm to be very bad, but they manage
them with great dexterity. The Patagonians made fome prefents
to our people who were returned fiom fliooting. Thefe were
round rtoiics, of the fize of a two-pounder ball. They are placed
in a rtrap of leather, faftcncd and fewed to the end of a firing
cf catgut twilled like a rope. It is a kind of a fling, which they
ufe very dcxtcroufly for killing animals a hunting. On the end,
oppofite to tliat which fixes the round ftone, there is another
ftone placed, half the fize of the former, and clofely covered alt
over with a kind of bladder. They hold the fmall ftone in their
liand after having pafled the cord between their .ingers ; and
then making a turn with the arm, as in Rafting a (ling, they
throw the weapon at the animal, whom they can reach, and kill
at tne dilhnce of four hundred feet, 'ir'^' "^'^y- ..{i.V!f:ff. i.'i.o
The comi)lcxion of the women is tolerably clear, for tliey are
much kfs tanned than the men, yet they are proportioned to
them in fize. They are alfo drelfcd in a clokc, wear bulkins,
and a kind of fmall apron, which only hangs down half the
Jength of their thighs. They certainly pluck out their eyebrows
for they have none. Their hair is dreiTed in front, and they
have no hats. •
Thcfe Patagonians are ignorant of the pafiion of jealoufy, at
leaf! there is rcafon to think fo, from their encouraging our
peoj)lc to handle the breails of their wives and daughters, and
making them lie promiicuouHy with them, wlicn I paid them a
vifit on my return to the Malouine Klands. : - '. " •
We gave them bread which they ate, and fome tobacco for
chewing and fniuking. I3y their manner of iifing it, we faw
plainly it v/as no novelty to them. Tliey would n A drink any
wine. When we had been five or fix hours with them, the/
grew more familiarized. They were very curious, fcarched our
pockets, were very defirous of feeing every tiling, and examined
us with attention from head to foot,
■ ; ' • • ■ ■ ' We
STREIGHTS OF MAGELLAN.
291
Wc mounted their horfcs, which were equipped with bridle,
faddlc and rtinuns. They ufe both whip and fpursj and fccmcd
i'atisfied and well pleafed to lee our people ride their horfes.
When I had a gun fired for fignal to bring our people back,
they fliewed not the leaft emotion or furprifc. When wc went
away they entreated us much to ftay with them, giving us to
iinderftand by figns, that they would l"u|)ply us with food, and
though they had nothing to oH'er us at prelcnt, yet they foon ex-
peiled fonie of their people to return from fporting, Wc an-
fwcred them alio by figns that we could not pofllbly flay ; and
that we were going dirtdtly to a certain place, which we attempted
to point out to them, endeavouring at the fame time to make
them comprehend that wc wiihed them to bring us fome oxen
and horfcs. We know not whether they underflood us.
On the eighth, having fet fail from Bay Boucaur, and anchored
wnder Cape Gregory, we went a fliooting on fhorc, and the foil
appeared the fame as on the laft fpot. After we had walked
about a league, we met witli two herds of vicunas, each confift-
ing of three or four hundred, of which we could not kill more
than one with a mulket charged with ball. 1 alfo (liot a Stink"
bhigfem, which I left on account of its offcnfive fmcll. I like-
wife fired at a wolf, but all thefe animals are very wild, and will
not fufFer any one to approach them..
At half pad fix in the morning of the ninth, we got under
fail in very plealant weather. M. de Genncs in his draught lays
down the I'econd n.irrows Eaft and Well corrected by the globcj
but he has marked it two points too much to the Well. I
would advife to keep tiic Patagonian (hore till you come to the
North and South of Elizabeth'-^ ilandj on account ol' the ftrong
tide which runs upon St. Bartiiolomcw and Lyon iflands, and
upon fome flioals lying off thofe illands. We coafted clofe to
Elizabeth's iiland, till wc came to Cape Noir, where we anchored
in eight fathoms water, fandy and muddy bottom, with broken,
fliells.
i From.
Mg2
OBSERVATIONS ON THE
From Fritlay tlie ninth to the tentli, we kept along the Pata-
gonian fhorc, at the diftance of a league and an half. The
coaft ap|>eared woody, but on the return of our boat we wcic
told the wood was not good for much. Bcuig near a low point
we founded, and no ground at fifty fathoms. An inftant after
we faw the bottom, which was Tandy, and at four fatlioms
water ; this obliged us to haul off.
From the roth to the nth we had much wind, and foggy
weather, with a very rough fea. As we were no more than five
leagues from Port Famine, 1 determined to go and anchor there.
The Eagle followed us, and we foon had reafon to be plcafed
with this refolution, for a quarter of an hour after we came to
anchor, we could not difcern any obje£l at tlie diftance of half
a cannon- iliot from us, and the wind flill continued blowing
very hard.
Fn the nth to the 12th, the fog and rainy weather con-
tinuetl. Havinu; walked round the bay, we met with fome fine
wood, and difcovered a very rapid river, on the larboard point
of the mouth of the bay. This ftream makes the fea as dirty
and as turbid, as a river overflowing frbra abundance of rains.
On the water fide there were (even or eight huts belonging
to the favages, which they had but lately quitted. I fired a gun,
and hoifl-ed our flag, in order to attrafl the favages from the
neighbouring parts.
From the 13th to the J4th there was a high wind, followed
by a prodigious violent florm, which ended in a great fall of
rain, fuccceded by fnow and hail, which lafted till noon, when
the weather grew calm.
From the j6th to the 17th, we met with fome very fine wood,
and fent an officer and thirty men on fliore, to pitch a tent,
and cut roads through the woods. We were conftantly em-
ployed in cutting and (hipping our wood till the 17th, when we
unmoored, leaving the Eagle to complete her cargo, and bring
up ours to the Malouine Iflands.
STREIGHTS OF M A G I- L L A N.
293
From the 29th to the 30th, at ten in the morning, wc faw a
fire on lliuic, which the lavages had kimllcd on our account,
Wc (leered towards the fire, and law fomc mc;i and horfw
From the 30th to the 31ft, the night coming upon . un-
awares, we came to our anchorage by the hght of two fires
which the lavages had made for us, one upon a mountain, the
other upon the fea-lide. We anchored in nineteen fathoms,
black muddy bottom, with fmall fhells.
At day-break the favagcs (houted, in order that we fliould
come to them. 1 put my yawl and longboat to fca well armed,
and with jjfelents. I went on Ihore, where I found three hun-
dred favages. including men, women, and children. Not ex-
pefling tij meet with To many, I was obliged to go on board
again to fefL-h Ibme more piclents.
Fron the 3 ill to bunday the firft of June 1766, the wind
haviiir driven our yawl fVom Ihorc, which was empty, our peo-
ple ^-'.re under Ibme anxiety for fear of loling it. The lavagts
perceiving il" s, one of them who was on horleback, fpurrcd his
horl'c, an(' \ lunged with him into the fea, to fwim after tli«
yaw'. He got hold of it, and brought it back to our feamen.
Pe ti:ij s we who pujue ourlelves fo much upon our politcnefs,
affability, and humanity, and who call thclc Patagonians la-
vages, woulil hardly have done lb much for them, in a fimilar
circumftance.
At (even in the morning the longboat went to fliore with the
reil of the prellnts, which the ftormy weather had prevented us
lending looni.r. It came back with thirteen of our people who
had Itayed witii the favages fince ycftcrday morning. They told
us that thefe Fatagoiiian giants had treated them with the
utmoft civility according to their manner, and given them marks
of the finccrcit friendfliip, even fo fur as to invite them to lie
with iheir wives and daughters -, that they had given them fome
fielh of the guanacos, fcveral of their clokes, and Ibme of their
flings } and the women fome of their necklaces made of ihells.
They
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They alfo made me a prefent of twelve horfes ; which I
not keep for want of forage. ft; . : i^
The piece of civility moH: troublefome to our folks, was that \ ~
of being obliged to lie promifcuoufly among the-Patagonians j '
who often Jay three or four together upon one of our people,
to keep the cold from them j fo that their mulkets and other
arms became ufelefs. They would tlierefore have had no re-
fource left but in their pocket-kriiveSi which wou}d not have been
of much fervice for defending them, in cafe of neceffity againfl;
live or fix hundred men, including women and children, and all
of them proportionally of an enormous ftature, both in height
and bulk. Each man or woman, had one or tWP dc^s, and as
many horfes. They feemed to be of a mild difpofition, and very
humane. It wo"ld be eafy to eftablifli a very profitable trade
with them, for their horfes, and for the flcins of vicunas, which ^
are fo much valued, and bear fo high a price in Europe. The
fkins of guanacos are alfo excellent, though not fo fine.
From the 7th to the 8th, a very high wind, rainy and thick
•veather. The fea was terrible, the wind blowing always by \,i
Iqualls. .:, :v ^. ■ :-■;- ?^;*„.^^.,,/.4 .,.;J! ^Z ■^■^'- ■■ '"-,; ■ ,:u,-:^^-
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rain, hail, fnow, and fogs. At nine we faw land without
knowing what it was : at noon we found it to be Sebald de
Wertz iflands, which bore S. E. diftance ten leagues.
; On the 15th we caft anchor in Acarron bay, in the fame
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