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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thcde. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 m wim '^A')lm 1L_1 _^__ CmiijHlfii & dniwn by TA.Mein Ctllfydnymphei: TRACK OF THK FLYING SQUADRON 18Jt)-187() TKAC'K OF TIIK FLYIN(i SQUA :Jrnm: c7X- •;-r.-7r-.:x fifttlrd & timwn b\ TA.Mfi CH.IIydrtf^rapher. FLYIN(i SOUADROiN PPPPIIipiliPllpiq^iiPliJilppil^^ ^^rB?r^^ THE CRUISE ROUND THE WORLD OF THE FLYING SQUADRON 1869—1870, UNDER THE COMMAND OP REAR-ADMIRAL a. T. PHIPPS HORNBY. J. D. P T T E R, ADMIRALTY CHART AGKNT, 31, POULTRY, & 11, KING STBEi3T, TOWER HILL. MDCCCLXXI, -^^ ^;^tsd •au**-- ^9^0^ ■MM I LOSDOH : ■ -«..«» vnilU. 10 fc II- OBAHB OODRT, !,«■ & CLKSOH. SATI05A1. BTBAM PBIHTDIO WOI«. VLUT STBOW. MA l{ I # f^f^ut.^^ zz. A/. y TO HER MAJESTY EMMA, QUEEN-DOWAGER OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HER KINDNESS TO THE PLYING SQUADRON, THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HER HUMBLE SERVANT, J. B. To thee, proud daughter ol Pacific Island'a Chief, And widowed wife of Hawaiia's ^ing, Accept our grvteful wishes, though they be but brief, Yet heartfelt, for all happineaa this world can bring. I»» 1 l «. >p . » mm^ Tor the benefit of those who took part in the first British Circumnavigating Expedition since the days of Anson, in order to recall a few of its Incidents, and also as a Memento in future times of the HospitaUty shown by the Great Colonies of the Southern Ocean to the Squadron from the Mother Countryj these few Facts, with the assistance of Heney CAVENmsH, have been compiled By their Humble Servant, J. B. ■p I /-.I I JWPS ' 'If i"n>«wi"wy wmm::^: n the first 3 the days I Incidents, les of the lies of the ihe Mothec isistance of ervant, J. B. Si CO Z- o < CO 2 C nm f ^;- ; CRUISE OF THE FLYINCi SQUADRON. PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA. "Sail at daylight, whether or no!" Such was the stern command of one of their Lords Commissioners to the Admiral commanding the Flying Squadron, on the afternoon of Friday, the 18th June, 1869, the squadron having been detained at Plymouth since the morning of the 17th, when the first start was attempted, owing to an accident occurring to the " Barrosa's " engines (she being the ship that had taken the place of the " Cadmus," that had been ashore near Salcombe, and knocked a hole in her bows). The squadron, consisting of the frigates " Liverpool " (flagship of Rear- Admiral Hornby), "Liffey," '* Endymion," "Bristol," ana corvettes "Scylla" and "Barrosa," having been organized in "^f FLYING SUUAlHUtN. compliance with a scheme laid before the House of Commons by Mr. Childers in his Budget Speech, liaving for its contemphited object the display of the British Flag in a detached squadron in the distant parts of the world, in order to facilitate the withdrawal of most of our ships on foreign stations, nnder the influence of the present rage for economy; to ensure which, the following order was pro- mulgated before starting, for the guidance of the squadron : — " Squadron Standing Order. No. 2. " Lisrerpool. At Spithead, " 8 June, 1869. " In comphauce with Article 5, page 80G, of the " ' Queen's Regulations arid Admiralty Instruc- " ' tions,' I have to request that especial care bo •' taken to economize fuel and stores. " 2. The ships are to be completed with water " before leaving port, and at sea the crews are to " be placed on an allowance of one and a, quarter " gallons per man per diem, to be increased to one *' and a half gallons when in the tropics, and this " to cover washins: water. " 3. The attention of the engineer is to be PLYMOTTTir TO MADKIRA. 3 " directed to the economy of fuel in distilling water, " and the expenditure of coal for cooking is to be *' strictly watched ; ashes are to be thoroughly " burnt when steaming, and to ensure it, the stokers •' are, when steaming slowly, to get up the ashes. " 4. The oldest suit of sails is always to be worn *• in the tropics, and in fine weather. "5. Worn rope may be largely used in the same " way ; but before leaving the Trades, good braces, " buntlines, clew garnets, and reef tackles are to " be rove, using the worn rope for stunsail gear, " jib-haulyards, etc. Boats, falls, and yard tackles " are, of course, always to be of the best. " 6. Yarns are to be carefully collected and " packed at once for return. " G. T. Phipps Hoenby, " Rear- Admiral Commanding. " To the Captains, etc." eer is to be Perhaps a grateful country was not aware that, for the large outlay of £329 10s. expended on her ocean labourers, an extra ton of water a day might have been served out to each ship in the squadron for one year ; the gallon and a quarter daily allowance to officers and men, including cooking, washing, and drinking, with '^'"fipiip 4 FLYING SQITADKON. the assistance of the extra ton per day, might have sufficed for the ordinary requirements of life and cleanhness, which, we venture to think, three tons (the allo^vance) was not able to do. The expendi- ture of each person belonging to the squadron of 7s. 7id. annually, Oi', in other words, of a farthing a day, would have doubled the allowance ; and we strongly recommend volunteers for the future Flying Squadrons to practise the one and a quarter gallon on shore before it is too late, notwithstanding the lowering-looking future impelled that strong sense of duty which has always so peculiarly characterized the British ocean wanderers. 4 a.m next morning the flyers might have been seen opening their eyes slowly, and not very willingly, to get their ships under weigh, and with a light north-westerly air, for upwards of an hour afterwards, slowly, very slowly, making their way outside the breakwater, as though the ships themselves had a partiality for Devonshire lasses and Devonshire cream, as well as those they carried ; and at four o'clock in the afternoon, while still hovering like vultures round the Eddystone, the Commander-in- Chief (Sir William Martin) and a large multitude of ladies were seen coming out from the Sound, as though anxious to gloat on our misery ; and as he neared the squadron in his steam tender (" Princess Alice "), he PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA. y, might have s of life and nk, three tons The expendi- 10 squadron of of a farthing illowance ; and for the future le and a quarter notwithstanding hat strong sense rb^ characterized M next morning ening their eyes their ships under J air, for upwards T slowly, making though the ships nshire lasses and hey carried ; and lile still hovering e Commander-in- Tge multitude of Sound, as though L as he neared the icess Alice "), he kindly made the signal for opportunity for letters to England, piling still greater agony on, and after steaming round the squadron under a full head of steam, without a sign of communicating. (We believe our Admiral had accepted the offer, and purposed sending a despatch.") We experienced some little difl&culty in seeing how our penn'orth of farewell was to arrive at its destination, and then the waving of a cloud of pocket handker- chiefs, and a choking sob just behind from one of Devon's lads, soon set your mind at rest as to their intention, and half-an-hour afterwards the steamer was out of sight under the land, carrying with it her gay and jocular freight; and then, for the first time, our hearts began to sink as the last link that binds the Briton to his native land was severed, and our tempers to rise, as we came to the conclusion that in our forlorn condition the west country had amused itself with a practical joke at our expense. Then, we are happy to say that the wind commenced to perform the same manoeuvre, ae perhaps the sparkling genius of the western counties might hare invented a repetition before the next day, and the breeze coming up from the N.E., carried us safely out of our tormentor's fair clutches and into fine weather,, until the anchor went down off Funchal, Madeira, on Thursday, 1st July, at 6 p.m., •^IF vai m 6 FliYINC SgUADKON'. where we found the " Warrior" and " Black Prince" at anchor, waiting for the arrival of the Bermuda dock at Porto Santo, where she was to be towed by the " Northumberland " and " Agincourt," assisted by " Terrible," the whole under charge of Captain May, of the " Northumberland," the second part of the voyage to be conducted by Captain Boys, of the " Warrior ; " and a very pleasant job in prospect, to tow an unwieldy monster to a place like Bermuda, which is celebrated for its almost incessant gales of wind, in the event of which your only chance is, to sink her down to the water's edge and wait for fair weather ; and as we were only to remain there twenty-four hours, time was precious. The first thing next morning, before daylight, a good many — and that good many chiefly consisting of that irrepressible boy, the " British midshipman" — were ashore bargaining for horse flesh — live, we mean, of course. We beg that responsible officer's pardon, but are as yet undecided which of the two — that most undeniable scoundrel, the Madeira horse vendor, or the complacent British midshipman — is most satis- fied with the result at the end of the day We know, of course, the least, but of the other two we should be inclined to think the midshipman gets the best of it, as in all likelihood the animal's legs will Black Prince " the Bermuda to be towed ourt," assisted ge of Captain second part of (tain Boys, of asant job in er to a place or its almost of which your the water's J we were only le was precious, re daylight, a iefly consisting nidshipman" — -live, we mean, •fficer's pardon, the two — that horse vendor, —is most satis- ay We know, bwo we should gets the best lal's legs will 4^^ OFF FirNCIIA! , MAPEIRA. Meolino performing avy of their functions for a week lat least afterwards. If tliat most praisewortliy Iperjtlenian, the Secretary of the Society for the MVcvention of Cruelty to Animals, receives pecuniary benefit by the number of his humane endeavours, jwe should mildly s.iggest his taking the earliest [opportunity, notn'iLhstanding his probable antipathy Ito sea sickness, to make a tri|) to Madeira, which would prove of equally great benefit to the island [horses, as to his own heirs. Walking through the [town that day, and it was far from chilly, the [middle of summer at Madeira being almost as [hot a place as you wish to find, we saw a num- [ber of those wretched animals that had been several [trips to the Grand Corrnl and back since sunrise, a [distance of only about thirty-four miles, over hard jstones, diversified with an occasional relaxation [in the shape of about eight miles almost perpen- [dicular up to the convent for a change of scene Ibetween his other Alpine trips : enviable beast, the Madeira horse, with a hundred midshipmen turned [loose in the island. The British Consul, Mr. Ilay- rard, entertained the Admiral, Captains, etc., and a llarge party at luncheon, which entailed the consump- ^tion of a large quantity of very potent Madeira, rhich is a rathei heavy drink for the middle of the I I .J»J" I' . I nimPfOTifipwa 1 ; m 8 PLYINd SgUAIiRON. day, notwithstanding the undeniable quality ; and some accepted tlie proverbial hospitality of Mr. H n, who had, as usual, a sumptuous luncheon, and you had the satisfaction of standing to your mallet afterwards with his lovely and accomplished daughters. We must not omit to express intense admiration of the style of Miss M. H., at croquet of course ; and here we wiled away that charming of all climates, the Madeira summer evenirg, until five o'clock, when, as we were beginning to think of going on board, we saw our lost lamb, the " Barrosa," just coming round the point, which gave rise to eager hopes and expectations that we should remain the night, in the event of which Mrs. li n had made arrangements for a brilliant entertainment to take place in the evening, and if we behaved our- selves, we were to be allowed a moonlight stroll in the gardens afterwards. It was, however, suggested by Miss Practical that we should go down to the town and see if it were true, and if so, that the flag- ship should hoist a red pendant, at sight of which the white shoes should be pulled out immediately, ready for action, whioli accordingly we did. But, alas ! when we got on board, we found, like Johnny Gilpin, we still were urging onward, and the anchors going up instead of the pendants ^ MADEIKA TO BAftfA. 9 with the assistance of the mariner's friend, in the shape of the screw, it being perfectly calm, [without a ripple on the water we passed along on our pilgrimage. As the island was fading away in distance, we still saw, or thought we saw, a figure [clad in •: hite gazing seaward, may we hope, longingly. [And as soon as we had cleared the island, sail was Imade, and the next day found us in verj^ nearly the [same place, still dead calm, and at noon the " War- rior " and " Black Prince " passed ns on their way to Porto Santo, and shortly afterwards we picked up north-easterly wind, and passed on our southern ray, going outside the Canaries and inside the Cape le Verds without sighting any of them ; the wind 3arrying us to 15° N. 20"^ W. fell light, and went [•ound to N.W. The next day — Tuesday, 13th — it falling calm in the afternoon, steam was got up by the second division, " Bristol " to tow *' Liverpool," f* Liffey," « Endymion," " Barrosa," " Scylla ;" and it 7 p.m. the squadron proceeded; the towing ships laving steam up in two boilers, making rather less ^han three knots an hour. Immediately after starting, light foul wind sprang up from S.W., when the f* .Bristol" and " Barrosa" lit another boiler, and at inidnight the speed was under two knots. At 12.30 &.m., " Barrosa" carried her hawser away, and at XI;: fn 8BSB aa 10 FLYJNf! SQUAimON. 4.25 a.m., tlio wind having freshened, and, conse- quently, the ships liaving ahnost stopped making any headway, cast off and made sail to the S.W. monsoon, in 11° 30' N.-, and 21° 20' W., which we carried to 3° N. and 13° W., where we found the S.E. Trade, which carried us across the line in 20° west longitude, and gradually freshening as we neared the American coast at 5 a.m. on Monday, the 2nd of August, the " Endymion " made the signal, revolving light N.W. by N., and at half-past five, blowing fresh, shortened sail to topsails, and hauled to the wind to wait for daylight, iveather thick and squally. 9.0 a.m. bore up, and 11 a.m. observed H M.S. " Phoebe" at anchor off Bahia, she having come down from the West Indies to take the " Bristol's" place in the squadron, as the latter being the training ship for the aspiring Nelsons, she had to return with her naval prodigies, in order to enable their anxious mothers to see how much their little trowsers would want letting down before they start on their next marine excursion. Anchored off the town at 1 p.m., when the " Liver- " pool " saluted the Brazilian flag with twenty-one guns. Squadron dressed ship with masthead flags, in honour of the anniversary of the birthday of the late Empress of Brazil. Quite a novel idea, as the old lady had returned to the dust from whence she r.AniA TO RIO. 11 came for a considerable time, we believe. As regards the town of Baliia, we cannot say much, except tlint it is very small, very dirty, and very uninteresting, and is known prin-^ipally for its pipless oranges. The Hydrographer of the Navy (Captain Richards) being supposed to have charge of the key of the wind chest, which, if he had, would have been con- venient, as he only allowed us six days to go down to Rio ; and the people of Bahia said, between ten and fourteen, it was hoped that the stock he had sent was waiting outside, as "jvery day we were at sea over our appointed time w;is to be deducted from the days in harbour, which at the most was only just sufficient to get your clothes washed ; and if you were quicker over the passage than was allowed in the printed programme, it made no difference to your har- bour time, so it was altogether a one-sided transaction, co'iducted on economical principles, and with indi- vidual disregard that is liberally characteristic ; and •wo are afraid that as the last ship rounded Plymouth Breakwater, the Hydrographer muet have put the Flyers up in a shelf, to be left there until r^turn, as, weighing at daylight on the 4th with a light air as we got outside, where, if possible, it was lighter, and one of our magnificent frigates ("Endymion") got so near a reef, without of course touching, that steam was n 12 FLYING SUL'ADRON. obliged to be bad resort to, in order to leave tbe unwelcome intruder, and we struggled slowly on with the light winds until the evening of the 14th, when, it becoming almost a calm, the Admiral entertained the captains of the squadron at dinner, who had to hurry back to their respective ships immediately afterwards, owing to a fast-approaching fog. One captain of a flying frigate, we believe, mistook his vessel, owing, of course, to the difficulty of distin- guishing Her Majesty's vessels after dark, and, going on board H.M.S. " Phoebe," in preference to his own, ordered the officer of the watch to hoist his boat up, and the discipline of that ship was so perfect that he never ventured to remonstrate with his superior officer, and silently submitted to the exchange until it struck the gallant captain (the nightcap perhaps was of a different pattern) that he was in the wrong house, when he somewhat confusedly hurried over the side for fear of meeting the lawful owner ; and at last, we are happy to say, the gallant officer arrived safely at his own floating establishment. Next day, Sunday, the 15th, we were within twenty miles from the Raza Lighthouse, but afraid to stand in, owiug to a thick fog, and the following morning, at a quarter past ten, the fog lifted a little, and showed Marica Island, and then we tacked to stand in. Having OBI r.AHIA TO RIO. 13 once got hold of the land, we had no intention of letting it go again, so 8tood boldly on, the weather being still very thick (two days' fog outside Rio being the thing which, of course, had hardly ever beea known before), and shortly afterwards we saw two vessels having the appearance of men-of-war making off towards the southward, who, directly they observed the formidable array of six British vessels, put their helms up, and bore down towards the squadron; on closing which they were discovered to be Brazilian men-of-war, who had been sent out to welcome the British Squadron, an act of extreme courtesy on the part of the Brazilian Govern- ment ; one being a frigate, and the other a turret vessel (" Lima Barros "), armed with 450-pounder Whitworths, and the only available vessels they had, the others being employed in the endless-looking task of trying to catch Lopez, who, from the wildness of the country, his great knowledge of it, and utter want of roads, had succeeded in carrying on a war against the whole Brazilian Empire ever since an address to an Extraordinary Session of Congress, held in the Congress Hall of Ascunsion, the capital of Paraguay, from President Lopez, on the 5th of l._arGh, 1865, setting forth, as the chief points, that Brazil had violated the Treaty Tl^ mumQm;mm*mRiiiim,k,\vmmm fmmmmmmmmmmili^^ u flyino squadron. of 1850 for the maintenance of nationalities amongst the Republican States, by allying herself with the rebel band of Flores, who afterwards, as Presidenu of the Uraguayan Republic, was basely assassinated in the streets of Monte Video, on the 10th of February, 1868 ; but more especially that Brazil had usurped the posse«(sion of a neutral province called Matto Grossa, situated between the Paraguayan and Brazilian frontier, and claimed by the former in virtue of discovery, possession, and treaties ; and also against the Government of the Argentine Confederation, for refusing permission to allow the Paraguayan troops to cross their province of Cor- rientes, and also protesting against their crossing a disputed territory called Missiones, through which provinces Lopez wanted to pass, to encounter Brazil on her own territory. Two days after which meeting the Paraguayan Senate conferred on their President the rank of Field-Marshal, and in accordance with a proposal in the Senate, made by Senor Riveror-, Lopez agreed to lead the army in person, and so, up to the time of our arrival at Rio the war had lasted over four years, at an annual expense to Brazil of ten million pounds sterling. As a great deal has been written about Lopez, and, in all probability, a great deal more will be, all we say is, that he un- mo .lANElliO. If) doubtedly was a very remarkable man, and at times that lie perpetrated cruelties, wliicli barbarism itself could not compete with, since which time, owing to the indefatigable exertions of the Conte D'Eu, at the head of the Brazilian army, and also being driven to the last extremity, he, we have since heard, has passed to a higher tribunal, where the good and bad will be judged equally, and without bigotry. However, Paraguay had left its mark on our friend, the turret-vessel, that came out to meet us, as she was covered with shot dents and other indications of where she had been unmercifully hammered by the Paraguayan battery at Humaita, and, after an inter- change of salutes and cheers, they turned round, and we all made our way together for that harbour, whose praises have been sung, allied with the Golden Horn and Bay of Naples, perhaps more than any others in the world ; but at that time Tasmania, New Zealand, and that much vaunted inlet of the sea (our fine harbour of Sydney, N. S. W.) were com- paratively unknown, and half-past four found us safely moored in Rio harbour, immediately after which Mr. Lennon Hunt, H. M. Consul, went on board the " Liverpool," to call on the Admiral, and also to give all the information in his power for the further- ance of our amusements on shore ; for which, and |W|^lP**8i!li"wij^fHSSi mmmmmmmmm 10 PLYFNCi SCiUADKON. his many kindnesses, we tender him our sincere thanks. The next day, Tuesday, the 17th of August, was devoted by the swells to interchange of compliments, meaning, of course, a good deal of dis[)lay of flags, hoisting of jibs, and great waste of powder. Ad- miral Lobo (Spanish Admiral), calling on board the " Liverpool " in the forenoon, from his flag-ship, the " Blanca," and in the afternoon, the Admiral and most of the captains went to call on Mr. Buckley Matthews, C.B., our Minister Plenipotentiary, from whom we heard that the Foreign Ofiice, having com- lay • ""^ted through him to his Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, that the Flying Squadron would be at Rio on the 28tli of July, the day that we were due by programme ; but Vhomme propose, and not being allowed the use of coal, as the winds objected, we were unable to fulfil our part of the contract, which was unfortunate, as the Emperor having, on one of the only occasions since the commencement of the Paraguayan war, most of his income being given for his country's benefit towards carrying on the war, issued invitations for a grand entertainment at his palace, for the second or third night after our arrival, ought to have taken place, which he was unfortu- nately obliged to postpone indefinitely. We fancy mo .lANKITJO. 17 that there mnst have been an error somewhere ; and the next day the Admiral and Mr. B M called on the Minister of Marine, who also had, at the same time, the folio of Foreign Affairs, so his spare time was limited to an infinitesimal quantity, in order to tliank him for their kindness in sending the vessels out to welcome the squadron. Thursday, 17th, was the day that the Emperor had consented to receive the officers of the squadron ; so, at half-past five in the evening, in perfect line-of-battle of carriages, headed by the Admiral and Minister, we started from the landing- place for the Emperor's palace, about five miles from the town, where His Majesty received the officers, and after having a few words with each of the caj s, as regards their previous ships, stations, etc., his favourite language being French, getting an answer from a distinguished officer of the squadron, who is a firm believer of the benefit to be derived from the Anglo-Saxon tongue becoming the universal language of the world, in reply to the second question, " dans la Mediterranee," which almost shook the royal gravity. Shortly after which, His Majesty retir^"^, and then the officers were trotted in to make their bow to the Empress and Princess Imp^riale where the gallant Captain, who had been decorated by his Sovereign for distinguished gallantry, became the special object 18 PLYING S(ilTAI>F{ON. :i ii of royal favour, the cross of valour being much ad- mired by the ladies. After leaving the palace, the IMinister, Admiral, and most of the ofRcers adjourned to the theatre, of Lyrico Flumincnso, to see the Mar- chesa Caprinica del Grille, better known perhaps as Eistori, of whom we only remark, that she is as well known in the Roman hospitals as on the Italian stage, and we were happy to see that Rio recognised not only her virtues but her merits, with a true Brazilian welcome, in the tragedy of Camma. The Imperial party, as usual, was there, as His Majesty patronized Ristori's performance almost nightly, and, we believe, presented her with a magnificent diamond necklace before she left; also the Italian Society a gold bracelet; and Rio was, in fact, taken by storm by the popular tragic actress. A good many wiled away a very pleasant day by a trip to the top of Cocovado Mountain, 3,000 feet ; from the top of which you get a lovely view of the harbour and its surroundings, and, to do it properly, we should suggest putting up at the Hotel de Prince, Des Etats Unis, where a man will find clean linen and every necessary, as well as luxuries and starting early in the morning, getting to the top as the morning sun sheds her first glow on the water of the harbour, causing the shipping to sparkle like gems in a sea U RIO .JANEIRO. 19 of gold, find forming one of the most lovely panoramas that nature has produced for the benefit of the world. On Friday, the 20th, a good many, at the invitation of Dr. Gunning, originally Lecturer of Practical Anatomy at the Edinburgh University, and now one of the large landowners in Brazil, went to his house at Santa Anna de TJodrio, to which you go by rail over the zig-zag of the Cordelliera Mountains, 1,400 feet, where the subway is a grand triumph of engineering skill, and where you have to go five or six miles round a deep gorge that you might throw a stone over, with sharp curves, some of them half a circle in seventy yards, with a gradient of one in sixteen. On ai-riving at which, they were received with a real Scotch welcome by Mrs. Gunning, to whom, as housekeeper, nine or ten sudden ad- ditions to the household must have been a matter of no small panic in the commissariat department, and whatever her feelings were, she managed to conceal them well, as everything that was possible to do, in order to make you feel at home, was done by your hostess, and after a walk through a Brazilian garden and a village, that the Doctor has built for his liberated slaves, and a look at some of his Paraguayan prisoners, that he hires from Government at from two to three milries a day, whom they take no trouble to I 20 PI,YlN(i SUlIADIvON. 1 '1 i! look after escaping, as, if they get away, which they can only do by going through the large towns, they are immediately detected. After which, a sumptuous dinner, Scotch toddy, and such a sleep as you only appreciate when you go from the grilling heat of a low tropical town to the invigorating air of the mountains. Out with the early bird in the morning to pick our worm, which, on this occasion, was the enjoyment of a before-breakfast stroll, while all nature was at its best ; then breakfast, sweetmeats, and other Scotch delicacies, after which the painful part of saying, " Good-bye," which was obliged to be done shortly after breakfast — our host accompanying us as far as Rodrio, where we parted with consider- able sorrow on our side, and from there, sixty miles of rail. f-J;rough the most lovely scenery, to Entre Rios, and from there, by a mule coach, at a hand gallop all the way to Petropolis, where a halt was made for the night ; and the next morning early, in the coach again, going over the Sierra Mountains, and looking on the clouds and mountain tops, with an occasional glance at the terrestrial globe, as the clouds broke now and then in their course through the valleys. The road from Raiz: do Sierra, for a dis- tance of ten miles, cost £18,000 a mile. And from there took train to Praiba, the laying down of which n 4 UW JANEIlfO. 21 '^ >«. h lino cost a European a yard, so that traffic is not carried on in the country without considerable ex- pense, and it will be many years hence before the interior of the largest monarchy, perhaps excepting China, and naturally richest country in the world, de- velops the wealth of her marvellous resources, which at that time were perfectly paralyzed by the war. And, taking the ferry steamer from Praiba, we returned to our normal state on board Her Majesty's vessels of war. On Sunday, the 22nd, we regret to say, we lost the company of Ristori and her family, as she was on her way to Buenos Ayres, to electrify the inha- bitants of the Argentine Confederation. Admiral Lobo, the Spanish Admiral, took the Marchese and Marchosa off to the Messagarie Imperiale steamer, "Aunis," which was to take them to Montevideo, the Signorina B a C a and her mother being escorted off in oue of the flying cutters, by two representatives of their Sovereigns — a Victoria Cross, a British Consul, and an humble lieutenant, very much out of place in such exalted company ; and after remaining a short time on board until the ringing of many bells and a good deal of swearing in unknown tongues, the parting came — on one side certainly — of sincere sorrow, and a wish (never ful- filled) to our next merry meeting at Buenos Ayres, P ■* V ! 22 FLYING SQUADJtON. 1! and then the " Aunis " steamed slowly and stately- out of the harbour, as though she was aware of the violence of the South American pamperos, which, in all probability, she would have to battle with before arriving at the entrance of that most dis- agreeable of all estuaries, the mouth of the River Plate. We wish them good luck, and well through it. And from thence to Nitheroy, on the opposite shore to Rio, and a charming dinner at a villa half way up the hill, kept by an ex-Italian ballet-dancer, notwithstanding one whom we saw scaling the hill for a last fond gaze on what was then only a distant line of smoke, to mark the track where the outward-going steamer had passed from our view, finished a very pleasant day, which would have been ploasanter still if the "Aunis" liad broken down and given us the company of some of her living freight. On Monday, the 23rd, was the day His Majesty was to visit the squadron at 11 a.m.; and immediately after that time, a royal salute, tliuudered forth from the batteries ashore, closely followed by the Spanish and Peruvian ships of war, told us that he was on his way some time before he appeared from behind the crowd of shipping in the "harbour, and on His Majesty arriving on board the " liivoipool," the Brazilian flag was hoisted at the main, and the « IMO JANEIRO. 23 «*j squadron fired a royal salute. After which ho was entertained by the exercise of the men at ^ moral quarters on board the " Liverpool," and also oy the squadron manning and arming boats ; at the latter entertainment of which, the rocket-boats assembled under the flag-ship's stern, to please the royal eye with a feu de joie of rockets, on which occasion the articles in question, as a rule, insisted on remaining where they were ; and as a grand finale, and by dint of great perseverance and science, one w persuaded to leave its tube, and proceed up into space, at which His Majesty expressed himself content ; after which, he honoured the Admiral with his company at lunch, and then expressed a desire to visit the rest of the ships of the squadron, which, being unexpected, was slightly awkward, ai^ " Litfey's " and " Endymion's " bands composed the gentlemen who played the Brazilian Anthem on his going on board the flag- ship, and as the " Lifiey " was next ship to the " Liverpool,"' and close to, a little difficulty was experienced at first to see how her band, having played His Majesty over the flagship's side, gomg away, were to perform the same functions to him on going on board the " Liffey." But as it became a matter of necessity, it came to, " Ho it at once, " sir ; don't ask me how." So, as he went down I I 24 PLYING SQUADRON. ill 'i ■ \ 1 one side, the gentlemen of musical propensities were propelled down the other, and by the aid of the modern invention of steam over the ancient one of oars, used in the imperial }>irge, they just ar- rived in time to blow His Majesy over their own side, though we believe the eup'i.rr^i.;.;., uaving passed his prime, and being rather short m the wind, let ofiF his portion of the National Anthem half way up the " Liffey's " side, in preference to not at all. And after having inspected each ship, the squadron, with the exception of the " Liffey " (she having a man dangerously ill), fired a salute on his leaving each one, and also in company with foreign men-of-Avar and shore batteries, on His Majesty landing, ".ALing 756 guns, or £70 worth of powder expevu/^d ly the squadron during the day, the amount of wiii- 1 -vould have realized fourteen hundred tons of water, wnich, perhaps, would have been preferable, especially a little, after such a quantity of smoke. The following day the residents played the squadron at cricket, under a scorching tropical sun ; and whilst we w^. discussing to ourselves the respective merits of hu df^Dko. or being devilled alive, Mr. Buckley Mathews arrived with a little cad?au ^nr the crieketers, in the shape of a dozen of champagne, foi' v/hich he has secured their everlasting gratitude, and to the invigorating eftect n r ■' I I! RIO TO MONTE VIDEO. 25 of which is mainly due our success, as the squadron won in one innings, and 13 runs to spare. After which, the Admiral entertained our Minister and the members of the Legation on board the " Liverpool ;" an adjournment being made afterwards to the ball given by the British residents to the squadron, for which Mr. Mathews kindly gave up his house, for the great pleasure of having it turned inside out. We hope the sight of the room slightly rewarded him, as it was an exceedingly pretty one, with its diflferent specimens of ladies and uniforms of most known countries in the world. As regards the ladies, we think the wife of a distinguished officer holding high position in the Spanish Navy, was without rival. 6 a.m. saw most on board, and at 7.30 we were steaming slowly out of one of the finest natural harbours in the world into the fogs and heavy gales constantly hovering about the mouth of the River Plate as a trap for unwary navigators. Thursday, 26th, calms, light westerly winds, and fog3, which lasted for several days, with a good deal of thunder and lightning, and, in fact, gene- rally extremely unpleasant weather, which lasted until the 30th, at noon of which day it was blowing a gale in squalls from the N.E., baro- meter standing high, and giving no indications of 26 FLYING SQUADRON. the approacli of bad weather. At 5.15 p.m., " Phoebo" dropped a man overboard; and as it was getting dusk, and a strong sea running, she was unable to save him ; and being afraid of losing her boat's crew, as the weather was thick and threatening, she recalled her and stood on. At half-past two, in middle watch, shortened sail to a strong squall from the N.W., and at 8 a.m. were hove to under close-reefed main- topsail, maintrysail, and forestaysail to a heavy gale from the westward; only one ship in sight from the flagship, and that only occasionally. On the 1st of September, at daylight, still blowing a strong gale — "Lifiey" and"Barrosa" in sight at 9 a.m. — wore ship to look after our scattered flock, " Phoebe" and "Endymion" rejoined in the afternoon, so the little flock were together again, with the exception of " Scylla," who prefers her own, to squadron company on the high seas, and has probably secured her opportunity. After the storm comes the calm, and the wind remained light and variable for several days. On the 3rd, " Barrosa " found a ship-rigged vessel west, about fifteen miles off, and com- municating what she hoped would be glad tidings, was requested to chase the strange ship, which she accordingly did ; and away went our bloodhound on the track, and shortly afterwards the signal was sisaBeasaxm iiliiliillliliMliMi EIO TO MONTE VIDEO. 27 made from the flagship — " Are strange ships men-of- war ?" To which she received the answer — " Appear to be." And shortly before dark our hounr" returned, without her prey ; though there was little doubt that the strange ship was our " Scylla " urging on. her wild career, and, unlike Mrs. Lot, not looking back. On Sunday morning the " Barrosa " lost a boy from yellow fever, which she had picked up aii Rio, and in the afternoon the squadron were carrying a good deal of sail to from fresh to strong gales from the N.E., going from 13 to 14 knots, trying to make the Island of Flores, at the mouth of the river, before dark, as we were perfectly aware that it was blowing a heavy gale of wind outside, and we thought that there might be a chauge, which must be for the better, in. At half-past three, the Admiral made the signal — " Should the weather thicken before reaching Flores, " I shall most likely run to sea." Happy thought ! But to our mutual and intense satisfaction, so base a design was frustrated by the wind falling lighter as we closed the land ; and at five minutes past seven, descried the light on East Point, and slowly wended our way, during the night, up that mighty river supposed to have been discovered by Sebastian Cabot, a native of Bristol, while employed in the Is- Ills': 7f ^7 ■1 li 1 1 i i 28 FLYING SQUADRON. ! i service of Charles V. of Spain, and called by hira the Rio de la Plata, or River of Silver, on account of the massive silver ornaments that he found the natives wearing ; or perhaps the original name given to it by the Indians of Parana (resembling the sea) is more appropriate, as the width across the mouth is nearly three times the distance from Holyhead to Kingstown. We anchored off Monte Video at 9 a.m. on Monday, the 6th of September, our little straggler, " Scylla," coming down to meet us, almost deluding you into the idea that she was pleased to see us again, where we found " Racoon," " Speedwell," "Beacon," and "Pylades" at anchor, the latter having just arrived from the Pacific to relieve the " Racoon," ordered to the West Indies, and also where we found ourselves about three miles off the shore, the Tvater medium between us, usually being in a state of very unpleasant turbulency, owing to a constant succession of pamperos, one of which coming on that night, obliged the captains, who had gone to dine with the Admiral, to follow out the maxim of, " Where I dine, I sleep," and also making it a very pleasant anchorage for recreation (we only answer for our own time), as you are always in a happy state of ignorance when you go on shore as to how many days will ; ipse before you get on board MONTE VIDEO. 29 again ; or, what is more important, after getting on board, as to how many days may elapse before you get ashore again. Tuesday, 7th, fired a royal salute, and dressed ship with masthead flags, in honour of the anniversary of the foundation of the Brazilian Empire. Wednesday was a grand night at the opera, Rigoletto being part of the entertainment, the greater attraction, however, being the ballet, which was carried on by an Italian company, who, we imagine, had left their own country on account, pro- bably, of the shattered state of their Lord Chamber- lain's nervous system, and found more sympathy from the inhabitants of the Uraguayan Republic, owing pro- bably to their closer proximity to the sun; in fact, old continental ballet stagers were heard to say that European eyes had never seen its equal on their own stage (we decline moralizing on the effect, and only mention the fact). Headed by three Prima Ballerinas — one of whom had lately married an Italian officer in one of their men-of-war, and almost as recently left by the same person to her own devices — who, indi- vidually performing some more than ordinary pirouette, which dazzled the house, and almost made your head whirl, till you imagined her toe must penetrate the stage like a corkscrew, and while she was turning herself into a Catherine wheel, the Hi «: i< i; i! I 30 FLYING SQUADRON. I I m ! house was silent as a tomb, and not until she sank, apparently almost lifeless on the stage, did it come down with an applause that only Castilian blood, heated seven times, in a South American Republic, could hope to attain, and which is a total stranger to the inhabitants of our frigid climes — happily, perhaps — and the only effect of which was to bring her successor out ten times more determined to vanquish, which invariably she did, each successive one leaving her predecessor completely in the shade for the time (we trust we shall not be considered improper if we mention that it was the fashion to have their mottoes embroidered in gold or silver on -their garters), until nothing but nature would have prevented their continuing all night, as each time the house came down with rounds and rounds of applause; and the final attempt of the ballet-master, to rouse the blood of the Uraguayans was worthy of his country, and must have been, in a mercantile point of view, for the house, a decided success. We noticed one gallant captain of the squadron, who, we regret to say, was rather near- sighted, and from his position in the stalls was unable to see as well as he desired, put his spectacles on, and almost immediately afterwards leave the house, under an imaginary compromise, we suppose, be- tween his better half and his conscience. What he i MON'l'K VIDEO. 31 could liave seen was never revealed, as, a month afterwards, we regret to say, ill-healtli obliged him to invalid ; but we must hope the shock of that night was not the primary cause. He had hardly taken his departure in time, as, immediately afterwards, a bell began to toll, and a score or more of priests, in garments which originally were vestments (but that was too much for Uraguay), arrived on the stage in apparent devotions, and in remonstrance against the levities before them ; but gradually, through the fascination of the scene and the seductions of the ballet corps, these men of supposed adamant, yielding to the frenzy of the moment — fell — and in one universal can-can the curtain fell also over a sea of muslin, the only distinguishable objects of which were shaven heads and embroidered mottoes. The house stood up with one accord for an instant peechless ; and then broke forth into what we can call nothing else except a roar, growing gradually and gradually louder until you began to tremble for the structure itself, which lasted for about a quarter of an hour without a sign of response from the stage, when they slowly, and appa- rently unwillingly, commenced to leave. They could hardly have expected it over again, especially as the black-coated gentlemen would have required some new garments before they would have been able to 32 PLYINO SQUAimON. > t I \ \ i ■ ,■- I'M ■ reappear. Wo must mention one peculiarity about the theatre : they had a gallery exclusively set apart for women, and perhaps more zealously guarded from the all-destroyer than the portals of an Eastern harem. The next day, the President of the Republic, who, for- merly as Colonel Battle and Minister of War to General Flores at the time of his assassination, rose the gar- rison to arms, and overpowerer' >rtunato Flores, son of the assassinated President, ^vi^^ vvas endeavouring to raise a revolution at the head of his own regiment in the streets of Monte Video, received the Admiral ; and in t;he evening, the senior officer on the south-east coast entertained on board his ship, in that profuse manner for which he wts known ; and, as usual, a pampero coming on inmediately after sitting down, there was nothing to cc but make a night of it, which there was no difficulty in, owing to the hospi- tality of our host ; and at 3.30 a.m., the officer of the middle watch reports one survivor and his captain still playing double dummv : and shortly after, hear- ing the wind of hunting horn and a hark forrard, the gallant captain, fancying himself once more leading his harriers, supposed that he had retired to rest, in which he was correct, and from which we did not rouse him when we retired in considerable peril the next morning to our respective ships, as it was still blowing a gale MONTE VIDEO. 33 of wind, though not with sufficient force to prevent the British Admiral going to pay his farewell visit to his French colleague, much to the consternation of that officer, and also to the officer of the watch of His Im^3erial Majesty's ship '* Circ Pearson ... ,•> L Wright Ensign Barry (llth), hit wkt., h Pearson not out Lieut. Lanning, R.A., c Sparkes, b Wright Eev. Canon Ogilvie, not out Bye, 1 ; wides, 4 ; no balls, 1 ; total 1 b Pearson 3 c Richmond, b Pearson ^ Bye, 1 ; leg bye, 1 wides, 5 ; total . . 86 THE FLYING SQUADRON. 1 26 25 24 3 4 13 1 4 7 108 IST Innings. Mr. Pearce (A.P.), b Baskerville... Mr. Baring (S P.), b Fox Mr. Adamson (Mid.), b Baskerville Mr. Henderson, b Baskerville Mr. Richmond, b Baskerville Lieut. Pearson, c Van Renen, b Fox Lieut. Wi'ight, not out Mr. Prothero, b Barry Mr. Sparkes, b Barry Lieut. Bruce, b Fox Mr. Beresford, run out, thrown Ogilvie 2nd Innings. 1 run out Baskerville, thrown Williams 4 bFox ... . not out ... . b Baskerville not out ... . 2 b Fox .. - 30 c and b Fox . 8 7 1 7 8 5 1 12 4 Byes, 21 ; leg byes, 4 ; wides, 7 ; total 32 85 Byes, 2; leg byes, 3 ; wides, 8 ; toial .. 13 01 ^■■^l«)^■<*W»»^'^' ^ ^'> w ■ ^•|^■ l''^''' V ' ''>'-> ' ^ ' '^|':^ ■^< \m 30 FLYING SQUADRON. n Our last man, runiimg l^'mself out, caused bitter -flBBHiinis to be burled on bis bead, but tbe fit T^as qnickly over, and barmony remiined undis- turbed. After tbe matcb was over, and a plunge at tbe Wynberg Hotel, for tbe purpose of rein- vigoration, some of tbe eleven went up to tbe camp, and dined witb tbe cricketers of tbe 86tb. Wbetber it was tbe novelty of tbe causes, or tbe extra exuberance of animal life consequent on being on terra firma, tbey displayed a very jovial appearance to tbe soldier on vigil, as adjournment was made to tbe botel for tbe purposes of pool, wben one of tbe number (celebrated for bis slows) finisbed tbree pints of milk, and tlien went to bed, and to tbe batb, wbicb was also ready, wbicb, on bis being about to avail bimself of in tbe morning, Jound it dry, and on collecting scattered tbougbts, recollected tbat perbaps be miglit bave finisbed it in tbe nigbt. Moral : "Ware midnigbt milk. On tbe next day, Tuesday, commenced tbe festi- vities of Simon's Town, wbitber every one flocked tbat could find a bole to put tbeir bead, tbe commodore filling bis bouse to overflowing. Sandfleet was tbere, and a very pleasant gatbering be bad, and every way in which it was possible to show hospitality was done by tbe commodore and bis wife. In tbe afternoon the SIMON S BAY, CAPE OF GOOD HOJ'E. 51 Admiral entertained on board the "Liverpool," about 180 sitting down to lunch on the main deck, and directly afterwards dancing commenced, and went on with commendable vigour until six, and then an impromptu supper, which while the guests were below discussing, the ship was lit up with the lanterns of the squadron, so that when they returned to the arena it had become a blaze of dazzling light, and dancing went on, we hope and think to the enjoyment of all, except one or two of the elder lords of creation, who, we dare say, would have preferred not seeing the young and faithful helpmates of their little joys Yielding to dark-blue arm, the taper waist O'er which the sailor's hand may wander undisplaced. 0, seductive waltz, source of flushing cheeks and languishing oyed, Teaching the young ideas how much to prize ! For certainly, according to Byron, Not Cleopatra on her galley's deck Displayed so much of leg or more of neck Thau thou, Ambrosial Waltz, when first the moon Beheld thee twirling to a Saxon tune. But considering, probably, that it would be alto- gether vanity to attempt remonstrance, they only gazed and wondered with the lionest Turk what might follow all this palming work, until nature at last gave way, and a little after ten the now eager husbands managed to persuade their spouses to i? m M I : •■ ! I I; I i i 1 1 iv i p'\ *:"'' ! ! :sii 1. 52 FLYING SQUADRON. return to their lawful homes and domestic felicity, some fifteen and eighteen miles for most, and a large part over occasional quicksands; but, as we never heard of mishap, we trust they all arrived safely at their destination, and. did full reparation for previous anguish. The next day " Endymion " gave a dance, where wevc gathered togeiher all that Simon's Town contained ; and, in consequence of the constant rotatory motion, gloves and shoes began to show distress, and spscial messengers for more of the necessary articles were despatched to Cape Town, the only prevailing idea being that it was perfectly necessary for existence to dance day and night, and ably they carried it out. As soon as one ship stopped, the band having no more available lungs left, another ship took it up, and any spare time was appropriated by Mrs. Do well ; and as there were seven or eight weeks in front of us — over more than six thousand miles of stormy ocean to recruit — we might make the most of it while it lasted, and we saw no hangers back ; old and young, married and single, were all infected alike. Thursday was to be our day of departure ; but as the English mail was overdue, we waited, expect- ing a telegram from Cape Town to say that she was in sight every moment. However, instead SIMON S BAY, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 53 of sailing, the commodore's garden was filled ■with bronze boots and silk stockings standing to their mallets ; which latter feminine appendage, we humbly suggest, has largely contributed to the undeviating success which has attended that game, so demonstrative of the human passions, which is now universal in Anglo-Saxon countries ; and in the evening tiie commodore's house was taken possession of by all those still eager to dance and intending to make the most of the non-arrival of the mail. The next morning (Friday) still no mail. The Admiral determined to sail the following morning with or without, and we regret to say we lost^ the cheerful company of the Chevalier, who had to resume his duties at Cape Town, owing to the arrival of the Portuguese corvette (" Infante Don Juan"). Many and anxious glasses were directed all day to the flagstaff at Simon's Town over Anderson's store, where they hoist a signal directly the mail is telegraphed from the lighthouse at Cape Town, and as it was the last afternoon, the Admiral, in virtue of precedence, sent round to collect all that could bo found for a farewell on board the " Liverpool," where dancing went on notwithstanding the con- viviality being sustained by jerky bursts of mirth, which betokened a mind depressed, and the gloom of friendship t>bout to be severed hung about most, 1 ■i #f mmmmmmm 54 FLYING SQUADRON. [('■■.IP I i!i we won't say all, because some we think are born with a total absence of electricity. Imagine a young and lovely creature, whom you have fancied yourself desperately attached to, as her hand hangs perhaps a little longer than usual in yours, and you take the privilege of a traveller's farewell, says, "Oh, I hope you'll look nice as you go out in the morning;" and we miserable mortals, with hearts in twain at the thought of it, could hardly appreciate such levity, and with six or seven weeks of about as much discomfort as man can suffer in the way of running before constant westerly gales, hail, snow, and a probable iceberg, the cup of bitterness was filled to such an extent that some succumbed for the moment ; in fact, our Flying Lillywhite having landed with what he lo-ved most for the time on earth, and escorted her and her chaperone to the portal of their mansion, under a load of parasols, shawls, but no fan — on the strength of an expected tea, and a last evening in company with a green-and- white frock — was wished a very affectionate good-bye, and the door gently closed, leaving him on the cold side, where emotion would have been out of place. However he still retained sufficient outward composure to make his way to the club, and try the consolation of B. and S., the first articulate sound that was heard afterwards being, " 0, my stmon's bay, cape of good hope. 55 gad, my heart !" — a not solitary instance of the sus- ceptibility of the heart of the British naval officer. We might mention that several times since we have had occasion to feel deeply for this officer, and consider evening service on the Sabbath to be always dangerous navigation, and especially so at Newtown, Tasmania, where the perils are many and the landmarks nil. In the evening, the commodore entertained His Excellency, Sir Philip Wodehouse and staff, who had come down to accompany the " Flyer's," or, as the •" Rattlesnake's/' in their wrath at having their com- missariat prices run up by the arrival of our little squadron, full of money, after long sea cruises, and prepared to spend as much as possible, and then go to sea again, and make more, christened us, while they were undergoing low diet : the Hungry Six, and memorialized the said half-dozen by employing their local Tennyson for their especial benefit, who brought forth a series of verses, bitter in invectives, and withering in sarcasm, we believe, though we regret to say they have not forwarded us a copy, but an idea of the substance may be formed from the last lines : — They clapped their hands, and cheered like bricks, And said, " Tliere goes the Hungry Six !" Hi !i I ^hH' 56 FLYING SQUADRON. We only tnist such rising talent may come in its time under the special notice of the Prime Minister, and be rewarded according to its merits. 8 a.m., Saturday, Oct. 16, saw us standing out of Simon's Bay, and the focus of many glasses was a green-and-white frock sitting on the doorstep of a neighbouring verandah, and thinkiLg, we hope, how nice we looked. But, alas ! it was to last but a few minutes ; for we had hardly gone half a mile when a thick fog and misty rain came on, and entirely shut out the emerald rosettes, which disappeared then and for ever from the history of Hungry S^x, and the " Rattlesnake " appeared out of the fog with the Governor's flag at the main, and many ladies to do farewell to the squadron in spite of tlio inclemency of the weather, for which act of s^if-devotion we return our very grateful thanks. Th squadron, in close column of line ahead, wore in succession to meet the " Rattlesnake," the Admiral saluting His Excellency, in passing, with fifteen guns ; we then bore up, and ran out into False Bay, with " Rattlesnake " in company, where we found a fresh south-westerly wind, consequently a dead heat down the Bay, which, as our friends the " Ra,ttlesnakes " were rather proud of their ship's sailing capabilities, was a grand oppor- tunity for tliem to try rate of sailing ; so, as the tapf; of (jood hope to melhournk. 6r Admiral asked the Governor if he felt inclined, which he did, away w^ent the squadron and the Cape clipper (" Rattlesnake"), when we expected in about an iiour to have to make use of a powerful glass to see her. How- ever, at 3 p.m., having chased for an hour and a-half, the three flyers, " Scylla," " Barrosa," and " Liffey," being respectively one, two, three, with " Rattle- snake " an indifferent fourth, the commodore diploma- tically made a signal to say he thought it time to return, and putting his helm up, passed, without many inches to spare, between the " Barrosa's " flying boom end, and " Liverpool's " stern, hands and hand- kerchiefs were freely waved ; and as she rushed by before a strong breeze to her Cape home, and we stood on our ocean pilgrimage, the Admiral made the signal : " Farewell to you and good ladies ;" to which " Rattlesnake " replied : " Wish you pleasant voyage," which was a tacit severance of the last tie between the squadron and the Cape Colony, before leaving which we take this opportunity of expressing the sincere thanks of the squadron, one and all, for the unvarying hospitality and kindness shown by the commodore and Mrs. Dowell to the officers of the Flying Squadron during their stay at Simon's Bay. o ■V km^ 58 t'l.VINU SyUAUHoN'. CAPE OF fiOOD HOPE TO MFlMiOURNE. 1H«J| s l!i N! i ! lilllf i I! ■i ii In the afternoon we picked up " Phoebe," who had relieved the *' Liffey " at Table Bay, Captain Johnson, of the " Liffey," having, we regret to say, been com- pelled to invalid at his .surgeon's recommendation — Captain Gibson taking "Liffey," Captain Hand ** Barrosa," and Lieutenant Bosanquet acting- com- mander of " End3rmion." Tho wind being south- easterly, the squadron stood close-hauled to the south-west, in order to make as much southing as possible, to get clear of south-easters and the Agulhas current ; and on the night of the 1 8th, in 38° 30' S., got a north-westerly wind, and carried strong breezes, veering from north-west to south, until the 21st, in longitude 30° E., when the wind veered round to the south-east, and remained light and variable, with thick fogs the latter part of the time, until the 81st, when, in 45° S. and 52° E., a breeze sprang up from the north-west, which soon carried us along ten and eleven knots, and we congratulated ourselves that we had got the brae west winds at last ; but, alas ! we were doomed to be diisappointed, as, on the morning of the 4th of November, 45° S. 68° E., strong south- easterly winds, and fresh gales with wet fogs, made rAI'F, (IK f.OMli Ilol'K I'd MKI.nofUNK 59 their appearance, jnid continued until noon of the 7tli, at which time wo were going two knots to north- westerly wind, and the next d.iy eleven and twelve knots to strong gales, with heavy squalls of Avind hail, and snow ; thermometer down to 33° — a fall of' thirty-four degrees since the day we left the Cape ; the brae west winds at last with a vengeance, and which lasted almost without intermission from the 7th, in longitude 71"" E,, until tlie 21st, in longitude 138° E., making short work of three thousand miles. Between noon of the 7th and noon of the 14th the squadron neared their port by a distance of seventeen hundred and one miles, seventy-seven miles of which have to be taken off in consequence of sailing on a great circle, the apex of which was in 46° 2G' S. 111° 37' E., leaving the real ground gone over by the squadron in a week to be sixteen hundred and twenty- four miles, or an average of 9*7 knots per hour. On the forenoon of the 9th, running under double- reefed topsails, whole foresail, and single-reefed main- sail, making twelve and thirteen knots an hour, we quote the " Liverpool's " signal log : "Daylight ; ob- " served ' Phoebe's ' quarter boats to .^o washed away, " and ' Barrosa's ' crossjack yard gone. 7 a.m., ** * Scylla ' split mainsail, and at 8 a.m., carried away "crossjack yard. 9 a.m., ' Endymion ' split jib, i :te m^mammmm I w ill II w. Ill 1 1 ! tiHll 1 1 i 60 FLYINCi SQUADRON. •' and ' Liffey,' maintopsail. 10 a.m., ' Liverpool,' split " mainsail and maintopsail. 10.50, ' Phoobe,' split " maintopsail, ' Endymion ' and * Liffey,' split foro." We only give this as a specimen of the inevitable effect of constant competitive exercise aloft on the gear and sails of an ocean squadron. We regret to say, in the afternoon, that the Admiral met with an accident that might have been more serious in its effect, by his fetching away in a heavy roll, and falling on the back of his head, cut a deep wound in the back of the scalp, which caused him to wander in the head for some little time, and in the middle of which a heayy sea struck the quarter of the "Liverpool," as though somebody had thrown a huge rock at it, and drove the whole quarter gallery in, bodily flooding the Admiral's cabin and all the after-part of the ship ; so he had to be shifted into the captain's cabin, and very soon began to mend. In the afternoon, the " Scylla " had to run ahead, as she was unable to shorten any more sail, for fear of being swamped, for, as her log relates — ■'' 2.50 p.m. " Heavy sea struck ship, carrying away starboard " quarter-deck hammock netting, filled port-cutter, " carrying away the foremost fall, life-lines, and " bent davit ; cut away boat to prevent ports being " stove." As the sea struck the ship on the star- OA PK OF (iODU HOI'K TO M Kl,BOUIiNF.. 61 board side, and filled the port-cutter, the officers and men that were on deck were obliged to be undergoing a salt douche during its passage, one of whom computed that he must have been under water about three minutes, holding on to a deok- bolt. We daresay it seemed long, as it is not an enviable position, but it was a mercy that she lost nobody washed overboard. The cutter, which she cut away, falling into the water keel down, floated away like a cork, was just seen through the haze by the " Liverpool," who hauled up a little to see if there was anybody in her, and as there for- tunately was not, continued her way ; though if there had been, it would have been almost an impos- sibility ^0 save them, as a loaded boat could not have lived in such a boiling sea, and the only chance would have been to try and pick thom up with the ship; and so the "Scylla" left her squadron, and was seen no more until meeting on the rendezvous oflf Cape Otway, on the forenoon of the 25th. The following day, 10th, " Endymion " parted company, and appeared no more until we had been two days at Melbourne, the remaining portion progressing satisfactorily until the 21st. When due south of Adelaide, and 271 miles off Cape Otway, the wind veered round to the south- FI.YINC SQUADRON. ^f »il»' -eastward, und standini^- to the northward on a wind at 7 a.m., (M the morninn^ of the -i;5rd, hmd was reported on the bow, and as uhose who, for the first time, looked on the great continent of Austraha, few could suppreiijs a feeling of interest uh he thought of "the many thaaisands of his felh n c in rymen leaving -their native laxtd, home, motiier, ami id! nearest and dearest, for iijar of scarvation, fear ( iive and law, and love of enterprise ; but all with one universal ooject — goid — kaa gone t.o the masthead, at the same cry of land, to be the &r5Sb to see the country of then- hopes aomd dreams in tke past, aad their viisions of the tranquil prospect jm the futiure ; of a home deep in the recesses of an AustraUa.. . iu..., witJMJut a sound to hreak the almost uneartiaiy stillness, except the prattling children uid never --iler.' locust, and all raised by the one lumcii-soughi-after nugpret. tliey could not fail to find. A fair pictnire — the odb successful digger, resting, m the autumn of liia ia&, on the results of luck, and the labour of his btsamr ; «m the reverse side, the thousands of men, broken in heart, spirit, and health, dragging their starving tiodies iuto an early grave, aliens in a foreign h^au ; as those who went aloft expected probably to ]ee a land flowing with milk and hone^'^, and glittering with ungathcred gK TO MKLBOURNE. 63 and desolate-lookino- coast, without a sign of human occupation, and, for all the eye could make out, an nn<^(Scovered land ; so we must admit, the first glimpse was gloomy. The melancholy part of the coast that we had the misfortune to hit on being Cape Bridg- water, half-way between the capitals of Victoria and South Australia. On the 23rd, beating against strong easterly breezes, and the next day, the Avind going round to the nortli-Avestward, the squadron stood along the coast for Cape Otway, the weather looking threat- ening at sunset, with a very low glass, 29'15, the light on the Cape being made out about a quarter to eight, the wind light from westward, and the ships running under all sail from three to four knots ; at half-past eight. Cape Otway being then north about fifteen miles, a heavy squall from the southward struck the squadron, making a dead lee-shore of Cape Otway ; took in stunsails, third reef of top- sails, reef of courses, and got up steam full speed ; but liappily were not required to use it, as the wind worked round to the south-westward, and enabled us to clear the land, close-hauled to a south-westerly gale, with very heavy squalls of wind and rain, so we stood off the land for the night. The next day it was .still blowing strong from southward, with thick i\i' i^ I iiMi i ! M i|H:'!l liil 70 FLYING SC^UADRON. clubs, Avould take a leaf from the book of one of our progressive colonies, as regards the comfort of those establishments. Sunday, 28tli, was a lovely Australian summer's day, and naval uniforms and gay frocks were plenti- fully sprinkled about the surrounding churches, especially towards the end of the evening service, by which time they appeared to have increased their acquaintance largely, and on Sunday night the missing sheep (" Endymion " and " Scylla ") returned to their fold, all ready to commence the festivities which began on Monday night with a ball at Toorak, given by His Excellency and Lady Manners Sutton, where was collected all the Victorian beauty that could be gathered together, and we must regret much that a recent bereavement should have prevented the Spring- field belle from giving us the pleasure of her company. Mr. Manners Sutton and Mr. Rothwell, A.D.C., were inexhaustible in their endeavours at procuring partners, and with so much success that the British naval officer was introduced one minute, card full the next, and the third walking in the garden on a lovely summer's night, on the best of terms with yourself and partner, and with just sufficient light diffused from a series of Chinese lanterns suspended by the rose trees and shrubs, to enable you to see the path, and entirely conceal your nearest neighbour in shadow. We con- r :R ,' ■ a: o a: J 5 w o X 2 O mil B *T« I i '■;..■ 1, 1 1, i i -%. '•>■%.., ► ■^ "K \ IIOBSON S liAV, MELBOUHNR. 71 kii' gratulate Laily Manners Sutton on a triunipli of effect, and hope that she was as much pleased as her guests, at tlie result of her hibours, which were unexception- able, though we are inclined to think heavy damage Avas done that night, which would probably have been far heavier but for firmness in high (quarters, concerning a kitchen garden key, and many friendships were founded then, and built up afterwards, which a lifetime will not destroy ; and we must take this opportunity of apologizing to our much-esteemed friend, the Bishop of Toorak, as, after the ball was over, the Bishop looked huffed, and on tender inquiries being made concerning his lordship's health, which was considered by him to be still unimpaired, temper only a little short, or, as he forcibly stated it, that the black coat was nowhere, and the blue and epaulettes had it all their own way. We felt deeply for our esteemed friend, but are certain when he looked at it next morning, through the invigorating medium of the pure morning air, and cold douche, he would have the grim satisfaction of knowing, that in a short eight days there would be an entire absence of the blue-and-gold, and the more sombre and ecclesiastical colour would have it once again all its own way ; and this idea, we fancy, forcibly impressed liis lordship, as next morning he appeared more cheerful and with spirits lightened at the prospect of sure and certain revenge. We had X %. .%. ^/%^. - ^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ ^ /. A 1.0 t I.I t 1^ IlM M M 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 -^ 6" — ► V] <^ W n V / .^-/S Photographic Sciences Corporation V '4^ «^ k 4t>^ Si. \ \ *» #> ^ % rv 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 I 1 m\ ■<■■■■■ ill I' J i 72 FLYING SQUADRON. the pleasure of meeting the young lady, for the first time, at the same ball, who when lately a noble lord, a passenger in one of Her Majesty's ships, said to her : "I suppose. Miss , you are "not accustomed to dance with lords out here?" " No, Lord ; but we are accustomed to dance " with gentlemen ! Thank you : I think I see my " mother ;" and with a haughty inclination of the head, the colonial young lady left so pleasing a specimen of the British aristocracy to make the best of it, and not only Victoria, but Australia, will take care that it is not forgotten against that gentleman, who we should recommend to omit that continent in the Southern Ocean, during his next circumnavigating trip. Every day hundreds flocked off on board the ships, and we hope they enjoyed the trip, as they appeared to, their spirits, while on board, being always of the most exuberant order. " 'Melbourne Punch,^ December 2, 1869. "after the 'at bome' at TOORAK. " The following lines were picked up in Collins- " street, 'and brought to oiir office : — " * Dear Clara, — " ' The " At Home " at Toorak on Monday was " a decided success, and the officers are such delightful HOBSON S DAY, MELBOURNE. 73 <( (( (( (( (( i( fellows, and such flirts ! Captain Long and Captain O'Hara are so distingue-looking — almost as much so as that darling Duke of Edinburgh was ; but the handsomest man in the room (mind, en confidence) was Lieutenant Jenkins, who will have an immense fortune when his cousin dies. He paid me such attention, danced three times running with me, and oh ! he is such a lovely waltzer, and says such nice things ! He told me he liked the IVIelbourne girls better than any other girls he had ever met, and he has travelled all over the world. His Christian name is Montague. I was just flattering myself I had made an awful impression, when that hateful Mrs. Blab came up, and said, * Oh, Laura, dear ! how well your dress washes ; only a little faded ; and I see you've turned all your old trimmings. I wish I could get servants to wash as well as you do. Good-bye, dear !' I could not help crying — the nasty, spiteful creature 1 Lieutenant Jenkins said, very kindly, * Don't mind — she's jealous.' I shall never forget it. I can't make out what men see in her. She is a flirt, which is no credit to any married woman, and she looks like a ghost. I think she must be a spiritualist — one of a low sphere. Any married woman can get the name of being pretty if she but consents to spend three parts of her time I « I ir'* 74 THE FLYING SQUADRON. " ' doing the block ' Avitli a parcel of boys. They say " the furniture is mortgaged. Lucy and Charlotte " Mortimer were there in their old dresses, the ones " they wore at the last Governor's ball, and so were " lots of /Others I could name. Everybody is not so " dishonest as Mrs. B ; she never pays for hers. " Your affectionate friend, " Laura." On Tuesday evening the members of the Melbourne Club „^ave a dinner to the Admiral and officers of the squadron, at which His Excellency Sir Henry Manners Sutton was present, and we had to regret being deprived of seeing Mr. Bright in the chair as President of the Club, owing to a recent bereave- ment ; his place, however, was ably filled by the Vice-President. The dinner, of course, was good, and passed off better by being full of the best of feelings and good cheer. Wednesday there was a state performance at the Theatre, which was largely attended. The Governor, Lady, and Miss Manners Sutton, Sir Trevor and Lady Chute, and the Admiral, with their respective suites, occupying the centre box, after a short appearance at which, there was a general exodus by those whom the weighty cares of office forced not to HOUSON H BAY, MELBOURNE. 75 remain, to the more genial company of Mra. Fellowes' ball at South Yarra, given to the officers o*^ the Flying Squadron, for which, as well as the great hospitality shown by the host and hostess to their guests, we shall be for ever grateful. But, with all due respect to Mrs. F., we think that if a certain bench, under a certain shaded tree, had been removed before the festival began, a few of our circumnavigating colleagues would still have been free to woo and win ; but, alas ! the troth, for better or for worse, was pledged beneath that fatal tree ; and, as our hostess belonged to the Anti-Chinese Lighting Asso- ciation, no other light save the stars of the firmament — and they apparently mournfully — shed their sleiMler rays through the gloom of night so sweet, o'er which such awful morn arise. The fragrance of a garden, notwithstanding the hour, in the full bloom of an Australian summer, with a partner '.qually sensible of its seductions ; to say under those circumstances only what you would not object repeating to the paternal parent after the following matutinal meal, would be less than human or more than angelic; and it was with very genuine regret that we noticed the squadron were uiuversally cast in very human mould; so the slaughter was terrific, on one side, certainly ; and \i i' li in I ii ii ) \il 76 FLYING SQUAimON. we must consider the outdoor arrangements a model of the consummate generalship of our worthy hostess to clip the " Flyer's " wings. On Thursday morning the match began between the Squadron and the Melbourne Club, of which we give the extract of the Melbourne paper. " THE SQUADRON V. THE M.C.C. " This match, between the officers of the squadron " and a team of our best amateur cricketers, proved a ** very brilliant affair. There was a large gathering of *• the public on the ground, at one time not less than " 3,000, and the marquee on the enclosure was well filled with ladies, whose presence and beauty gave additional picturesqueness to the handsome ground the whole day. His Excellency the Governor, with Lady Manners Sutton and family, arrived about three o'clock in the afternoon, and stayed several hours on the ground. Admiral Hornby, with Captain Hopkins, of the * Liverpool,' and Captain Gibson, of the 'Iiiffey,' were present during nearly the whole of the match, in which they, as well as all the naval officers on the ground, appeared to take considerable interest. "The excellent band of the ' Liffey ' discoursed sweet and gentle music, which was extremely pleasant to the ear, and a remark- et (t f< (( <( (( UORSON's I'.AV, MElillOUUNE. 77 " able contrast t' the brass bands often stationed " on the ground, whoso clamour so near to the " pavil' ,n is occasionally so loud as to compel spec- *' tators to wish, them a little further away. The " M.C.C. captain (Mr. Handfield) waived the right •' to play professionals — an act of grace on their part, " but certainly not more than the strongest club in " the Southern Hemisphere ought to have done to a *' team of sailors, who could not, under the circum- ** stances, be otherwise than out of practice. Lieute- ■* nant Wright, captain of the officers, sent in Rich- " mond and Bampton first, but they were soon dis- " posed of by Allen and Reid, two of the best bowlers " in the colony. The bats who followed (Assist- " ant-Paymaster Pearce and Lieutenant Pearson) " played well, more especially the former, who scored ■" 40 runs before he was disposed of. Pearson scored *' 14 ; but only one of the other players, Lieutenant *' Bruce, who made 13 (not out) succeeded in reaching *' double figures. The whole of the wickets fell for *' 95 runs, a very good score, considering the bowling *' they had to contend against. After the Melbourne •** team, had been at the wickets a short time, it *' became evident that the officers were weak in the *' bowling department, and four or five of the players • ** succeeded in making large scores, Cameron getting ' W n ij li I 78 PLYING SQUADRON. " 23, Barton 11, Allan 55, Major Baker 26, Reid 39, " and Fraser 1 1 . The total scoring was as follows : — "THE SQUADRON TEAM. Midshipman Richmond (" Phoebe "), b AUeu Midaliipman Bampton (" Liffey "), 1 b w b Reid ... Assistant-Paymaster Pearce (" Litfey "), o Barton, b Lieutenant Pearson (" Scylla "), b Reid I, ieuteuant Wright ("Scy 11a"). b Allen Midshipman P/othero (" Liflfey "), b Reid Lieutenant Eden (" Endymion"), b Allen Lieutenant Henderson (" Phnebe "), b Reid Midshipman Hender-son (" Endymiou "), b Reid ... Lieutenant Bruce (" Liverpool "), not out Midshipman Sparkes (" LiflFey "), b Reid Byes, 11 ; leg byes, 2 ; no ball, 1 Total " MELBOURNE. Wilson, at Eden, b Pearson A'Beckett, c Lieutenant Henderson, b Pearson . . . Cameron, c Wright, b Pearson Barton, 1 b w b Pearson Allan, c Lieutenant Henderson, b Wright... Baker, b Pearson C. Reid, 1 b w b Pearson Eraser, b Pearson T. F. Hamilton, run out Handfield, not out Cavanah, b Brompton Byes, 7 ; leg byes, 3 ; wides, 9 ; no balls, 5 Total ... ■ " The match was won by Melbourne, with 110 runs " to spare. 2 Isou .. 40 .. .. 14 ,. .. 5 .. 2 .. .. I 1 .. .. 13 .. .. 1 ■• ... 14 • • .. 95 ... 1 4 .. .. 23 .. .. 11 .. .. 65 .. .. 26 .. .. 39 .. .. 11 .. .. .. .. 8 .. .. 3 •• .. 24 .. 206 UOnsON S HAY, MELiiOanNE. 70 40 14 5 1 I 13 1 14 95 1 4 23 11 65 26 39 11 8 3 24 205 *' After the naval men had been disposed of, the " company adjourned t. hinch, which had been pro- *' vided in the Pavilion in particularly handsome style. " Full justice was done to the tempting viands, and " the usual loyal and coiuplimentary toasts were duly •* honoured and responded to, and the hospitality of " the Melbourne Club duly acknowledged. Altogether, ** this match was a highly agreeable one to all parties " concerned, and the occasion will live long in the " recollection of Victorian cricketers as a day of more " than ordinary enjoyment." We are certainly very much indebted to Mr. Hand- field, the secretary of the club, for their courtesy in leaving professionals out, and also for his exertions in every way to add to the conviviality and good feeling of the day, which was, as the Melbourne paper says, one of extreme enjoyment, and marred by nothing unpleasant, if we may accept the thoughtfulness of the club in having their two professional bowlers (Mullagh and Cousens, of aboriginal fame) to bowl for the benefit of the squadron before the real fight began, for which we were extremely grateful, more especially as, after a very limited number of balls from those gentlemen, we were quite satisfied as to their power in that line, and rather pleased to retire with a somewhat broken finger and rather dislocated shin-bone, which ;f w 80 PLYING SQUADRON. we had to patcli up before the evening, in order to appear fit at tlio ball given that night by the Private Assembly Coniraittee, in their rooms at Prahran, at which the Governor and Atlmiral were present, and which went off with all vclat, the only thing we heard regretted being no outside recreation, as the garden programme had been left out ; but, like the boy and the plums, we expect they were better without. Friday, December 3rd. — On the strength of the following letter to the Admiral, for which an Aus- tralian wranglership might be advantjigeously disposed of:- " To Heak-Admiral G. T. Hornby, etc., etc., etc. " Sm,- (( (( (( (( (( " A lot of boys in the schools about Melbourne would like to have a chance of seeing the ships of the Flying Squadron, and as we have no chance of doing so without a holiday, would you kindly try and get a general school hoHday on Friday next. We are sure no master would refuse it if asked for by you in one of the papers, or through the Governor. " Yours respectfully, " Schoolboys. " Novemljer 30, 1869." This distinguished specimen of the rising diplomacy lIOnsON S BAY, MELBOURNE 81 of Melbourne was eminently successful, and two sliips were set apart for the benefit of the boys, who were regaled with biscuit, tea, lime juice, and other deli- cacies, provided by Her Majesty ; and the only people who appeared not to altogether approve of the arrangement being the first lieutenants, who feebly remonstrated at the destruction of paint work. We. hardly know how the refreshments will be accounted for in the next estimates, but fully expect that it will be taken out of the squadron somehow. This was also an important day in the squadron annals, as it was set apart by Mr. Amess (the Mayor) for his picnic at Fern Tree Gully,, about twenty-four miles out of the town, fifteen of which was over a deci- dedly bad road, and the rest being a forest track only, an early start was unavoidable. So at 7 a.m. punc- tually our worthy host had between seventy and eighty carriages assembled at the Town Hall to convey his guests to the promised land, and by that time naval officers and their indispensable assistants on shore, the ladies, came pouring in, and with an alacrity worthy of so great a corporation, and were hurriedly told off", two naval officers and two young women being the complement for each shay, and rapidly they were filled and driven off to encounter together the perils of an Australian forest road. We hope that I i ; ^ f w^^ "N. 82 FLYING SQUADRON. the young ladies had no occasion to complain of the backwardness of the Flyers ; as far as we saw, we should say not ; and as uniform was, unfortunately for the clothes, a compulsory addition to the other delights, there was no difficulty in recognising the Lotharios. First, the sedate parson, holding his hands rigidly in front through the town, as bocame the church; then the stout engineer, of hitlierto unimpeachable character and unblemished reputation, corroborated by a faithful wife and loving family at home, looking a little abashed at first, but, we believe, considerably before arrival, had become on most inti- mate terms ; and, as for the return, it perhaps was lucky that so many miles separated the better half, and deepening twilight shaded passing events. Lastly came the gushing ones, regardless of the feelings of the public, who soon found the back seat of a dog- cart, over a forest road, was a decidedly dangerous position, and that the partner of the said seat had a strong desire to land herself and charms, muslin included, in the centre of the road, which, being a foot deep in dust, would have been decidedly detrimental to future appearance, consequently was obliged to encircle the taper waist, in his humane endeavour to save life ; and, finding that the feminine scream, which is used so often, and means so little, was not taken HOBSON S BAY, MELBOURNE. 88 advantage of, the bond of friendship tightened rapidly, and after the first thirteen miles, a few minutes* halt was made at a bush inn (the Cheshire Cheese) for purposes of refreshment, and away you jolted on again, over a forest path, first one wheel in a h.^e, then the other, th'^n an angle of forty-five over a tree ; and still thinking, as long as the muslin frock shared the agony, how infinitely superior it was, compared to running before the brae west winds; and when, after another eleven miles, the haven of comparative rest, in the shape of the Gully, was arrived at, where tents, meat, and drink in profusion were supplied, you lifted the partner of your joys and troubles from her exalted position, and after a little recreation, under the shade of the forest fern, you proceeded to explore together ; which meant about three miles laborious travelling up the Gully path, occasionally over your boots in mud; but, nothing dismayed, you toiled on, having at stated intervals to drag your once white-muslined and silt- stockinged partner out of something very like an Irish bog. The Admiral, in virtue of his exalted rank, was allowed a magnificent barouche, the advantage of which was, having twice the time to survey the surrounding country on the road ; and we fear his •worship must have either been erroneously informed, I . I- fail; fib I I I i! ' 84 FLYIXG SQUADRON. either that the coramander-in-chief of the squadron was indifferent to the charms of the fair sex, or else that it was the custom of people in high positions to lay aside the frailties of the flesh. Whichever it might have been, the result was similar to the occupants of the barouche, who had, after six weeks at sea together, to rely on their own resources for conversation, without the beneficial diversity of female intercourse ; and, a short time before the arrival of the Admiral, Major B r appeared on the ground, having negotiated the distance with his fire horses at a hand gallop all the way, and also the exciting, knowledge to his passengers that, in the previous trip of that gallant officer, over the same ground, he had carefully landed his freight in the centre of the forest, the obstruction being the stump of a fallen tree. However, the little cherub had looked after his own, and the journey was safely performed; and at three o'clock, after the photography of many groups, and the return of promiscuous wanderers from the Gully path, an adjournment was made to the luncheon tent ; and, as time was on the wing, and a long drive home in prospect, immediately afterwards the company were speeding homewards, much pleased with themselves, partners, the world in general, and also with a grateful recollection of the profuse HOBSON's jut, MELBOURNE. 85 hospitality of the Mayor of Melbourne to the officers of the Flying Squadron. In the evening, His Excellency entertained the Minister and heads of depaitments at dinner, to meet the Admiral ; and afterwards an amateur per- formance by the officers of the squadron was given at the Duke of Edinburgh Theatre, the pieces being The Goose luith the Golden Eggs, Messrs. Innes, Wright, Stewart, Bignold, Dick, and Montagu ; after which Kenilworth, with Mr. Menzies a« Good Queen Bess, assisted by Messrs. Michaelson Montagu, Grissell, Henderson, Minhinnick, Stapleton Bignold, Macaus- land, and Lillingston, assisted by Miss Docy Stewart and the " Endy^ion's " band, which did duty in the orchestra, the whole performance going off admirably, before a crowded house. Saturday was the day that Melbourne had looked forward to with tli3 greatest interest — more so con- siderably than the squadron, by whom it was partially reciprocated, but in a totally different manner, as it entailed turning one of the ten harbour days allowed by their lordships into a pleasant day of nautical manoeuvring in the Bay ; and the general cry was to leave the anchors where they were ; but it was thought otherwise, where might is right, and from the first dawn almost of morning, a constant stream of mil, ;^M)7^2= 86 PLYING SQUADRON. ! : i il! trains came pouring into Williamstown Station, bring- ing, we may almost say, thousands of Melbourne's fairest flowers, clad in their summer array, to do a day's yachting with the Flying Squadron, each ship having a large stage rigged between her fore and mainmast, capable of holding about five hundred people; and, in spite of the most zealous and fasci- nating of lieutenants, backed up by cocked hats and gold lace, having been accredited to the extremely difl&cult position of putting nearly three thousand people, bound for different ships, into their right boats, and also the more difficult business of attempt- ing to soothe many irritated damsels, who were borne away from the steps in triumph, by victorious midshipmen, where the touting waxed loud and fierce, as directly the midshipman's Venus, or rather Juno, appeared. Of commanding stature, raven hair, and flashing ^-^e, she was seized by several of those dis- tinguished officers, and almost carried bodily off. " * Endymion,' yes ; these steps, please. No, a little farther on ; just shoving off. Quick, jump. Shove offl" And away went the victorious midshipman, carrying his fair charmer in a totally opposite direc- tion to where she had intended, and, actually — ^imper- tinent boy — put his fingers to his nose, in the direction of his discomfited rival, who, by that time, was per- HOBSON's bay, MELBOURNE. 87 fectly oblivious of the desired insult, in his desire to carry off another angel. For days before, the canvas- sing had been fierce for the respective ships, and we must congratulate the hospitable owner of Spring- field in his success for the "Endymion," and also the gallant major, in his touting for " Liffey," although he was, both in and out of his official capacity, the pro- mised guest of the Admiral ; but we believe time has forgiven him, though he did try to seduce away one of the fairest of her sex from her promised allegiance to the "Liverpool." Shortly before 11 a.m., Sir Trevor, Lady Chute, and stafi* embarked in one of the " Liverpool's " cutters, and very soon after His Excel- lency, Lady, Miss Manners Sutton, and staff, accom- panied by Mr. and Mrs. Bright, arrived by. special train, and embarked in the Admiral's barge for the " Liverpool," where His Excellency was received by the squadron with all the honours, yards manned, the " Liverpool " saluting the Governor's flag at the main. Immediately afterwards, the signal was made to weigh ; and by half-past twelve, the squadron were standing out, with a light breeze from the north- westward, in columns of division, the Victorian line- of-battle ship "Nelson," Captain Payne, having gone but before, with thv Members of Parliament and their fSk ' , • 1 ml I I ! 88 FLYING SQUADRON. friends, nominally, but really with about two thousand people; and we believe it was almost a personal compliment to Captain Payne that he was allowed to take charge of his own ship, for which he was probably grateful. The squadron performed some evolutions as they went down the bay under sail — much to the danger of the good people of Melbourne, who had taken to the water that day, in between fifteen to twenty steamers of all sizes; anu it was estimated that there were thirty thousand people belonging to the city afloat, making a considerable clearance of the town, which was almost deserted, as young and old, and all that was fair and lovely, had flocked from the hot and dusty streets to the pleasanter temperature on the water, and, we hope, genial company of the British tar ; and had it not been that the Fates had otherwise ordained, mirth and revelry, combined with occasional bursts of seaman- ship, would have been the order of the day. But, alas 1 shortly after three o'clock, a dense, black fog was seen moving steadily up against the wind, and in a few minutes the squadron and their guests (especi- ally the muslined ones) were taken aback with a southerly wind and soaking rain, and as the water beat the ladies off the upper deck, dancing commenced between them, in some places in a considerable depth IIOUHON S HAY, MEL15()liRNE. 89 of water, but that appeared to be quite a secondary consideration, as long as it remained below the tops of the boots, and happily Hessians and tassels were the order, and at four o'clock the weather apparently getting worse, the helms were put up, and a general run back made for the anchorage, which was safely reached again at a quarter past five ; and, a little after six. His Excellency and party left the " Liverpool," and immediately returned to Melbourne by special train, followed by the rest of the Admiral's guests, con- sistinf, of the Ministry, Executive Council, Judges, Presi mt, Legislative Council, and Speaker of the Legislative AssomVjly, and others of the great men at the helm of state of Victoria, with their wives and families ; but the " Liverpool's " example was not generally followed, as a large number preferred not returuiug to their paternal homes, so dancing and revelry we^^ro kept up on board some of Her Majesty's ships to a late hour of the night. And so ended the first, and probably last, naval review of English ships in Australian waters, v Hch Melbourne had looked forward to with so much anxiety, and which, owing to the elements, had been so total a failure. Sunday being virtually the last day out, as the next one was to be given up to gold digging, a large L i' 'yi 00 FLYING SQUADRON. number of ladies patronized the chaplains of the squadron ; but we must confess ourselves that we prefer not only doing our devotions on shore when _ the opportunity offers, but also seeing them do theirs there too, so a large number of officers patronized the small country church of Toorak, where they heard a very eloquent sermon from the Rector, a gentleman well known in the annals of the All England Eleven* and more recently in the Victorian one against them, in his farewell magnificent innings, before the willow was obliged to be put on the shelf ; as some people, high in episcopal power, have an idea that manly sports and godliness cannot go together ; but we are afraid that there was more than a devotional meaning in the large sprinkling of blue and gold about the suburban churches, as we saw a general pairing off at the door — a preconcerted arrangement, probably, Oi the previous day — and a general adjournment with • the angel of the hour to one of the Melbourne fashions ; an early and sumptuous Sunday dinner, followed by the pleasant, yet dangerous, listlessness of the garden flirtation after ; the time which ^he elder and more sedate members of the family, having outlived the folly, devote to the recreation of Morpheus ; to the commander of a noble frigate in the meshes of the fatal passion we felt deeply ; but as he was undecided HOBSON's bay, MEIiHOUUNl!:. 91 between the individual charms of the sisterhood, numbers accomplished what prudence could not attain, yet we rejoice to say that many thousands of miles of blue water has dimmed the past into misty oblivion, and raised other longings in the future. In the evening, Sir Eedmond Barry, late President of the Intercolonial Exhibition Commission, enter- tained the General, Admiral, and a number of the leading defenders of the colony, at dinner, and to some of his marvellous old port. Monday was the day that Ballarat had set apart for the entertainmtint of the squadron, so at 7 a.m., by the aid of Mr. Longmore (the Minister for Rail- ways), a special train left Melbourne, with the Admiral, captains, and. about fifty officers, arriving at Ballarat shortly before ten, where they were received on the platform by the Mayors of Ballarat East (Mr. Eastwood) and Ballarat "West (Mr. Cowan), together with a large number of gentlemen and ladies of the town, who manifested their pleasure by lustily cheer- ing the train as it entered the station. A division took place for breakfast, the Mayor of Ballarat West taking the Admiral .';i a break with four bays to Craig's Hotel, and the Mayor of Ballarat East pre- siding over the other half at the George , and, as soon as breakfast was over, the procession, headed by the 9' I 'iijil' iiir >lm 02 FFiYlNG SQUADRON. Admiral's team, with Mr. George Moore, in blue and silver uniform as Marshal, doing duty as outrider, and followed by a stream of carriages of all sorts and sizes, started for the mines, when half stopped at the Band and Albion's Consort's shaft, and the rest went on to the Prince of Wales's company. No. 1 shaft — the first being an alluvial and the second a quartz mine — and after spending about two hours and a half, four hundred and iifty feet below the surface, digging violently, but finding little, although we do the miners the credit of believing, that they tried to show gold ; but the mine at the time was not flourishing ; so their efforts were almost fruitless, and after toiling up many perpendicular ladders, some eighty feet high, up curious shafts, holding on with the grim clutch of despair, with one hand to the rung of the ladder and the other endeavouring to hold a lifjlited candle, to prevent being utterly annihilated and cast to the bottom of the pit by a descending, heavily-booted miner. If you attempted to look up, to see after what appeared hours of perpendicular travelling, how near you were arriving to the top, you immediately got your eyes, mouth, nose, etc., full of mud from the gentlemen in front; and by the deep and muttered curses that rose from below, you had the satisfaction of knowing that you were performing the same act ill ITOliSON S HAY, MET.UOURNK. 93 of benevolence to the rising gentleman underneath, and it was with feelings akin to pleasure that we found ourselves eventually at the bottom of the shaft, after having inspected the horses that they use down the mine, who all look in the height of health, although once down the shaft they never see the light of day again. And it was with more than pleasure that the light of day down the shaft shone on the cheerful face of Mr. Lewis, surrounded by brandies and soda, to wash the mud down before returning to the level of civilization, where the enterprising photographer was taking a series of groups, after which the miner's costume had to be returned, and the very serious operation of taking the thick of the mud off before going back to a sumptuous lunch which had been prepared at the Mechanic's Institute for three o'clock, and by that time the whole of the guests had arrived. The Volunteer band being in attendance, and the gallery filled with the fair and lovely ones of Ballarat, the Mayor of Ballarat West (Mr. Cowan) in the chair, supported on his right by the Admiral and Mr. Longmore, with his colleague of Ballarat East on the left ; and, after the usual toasts had taken place, the chairman, requesting the company to fill their glasses for the toast of the day, ** Admiral " Hornby and Ofiicers of the Flying Squadron," said — 94 PLYING SCiUADUON. P 'I 'V^?*«5»«^"*''*?S'B»«!a:nHt.' 100 THE FLYING SQUADRON. to succumb to natural causes, and the anchor dropped, in order to prevent further mishap, the "Liffey" being sent back to take her in tow, and the squadron in the meanwhile anchoring off Quarantine Ground to await the arrival of the disabled one, who did not make her appearance until half-past seven, when it was too late to go through the Heads that night, so as Melbourne was lost to sight, it was, we think with all, to memory dear. And should any demur at this statement, we should recommend the Canadian backwoods as a suit- able residence for them in the future. Most retired early to their respective bunks to think over their last ten days' career ; some with much regret, and others with a pleasant and sober satisfaction. During our stay, the editors were bewildered with suggestions from all quarters, and one gentleman, exasperated beyond measure, published a few of his, the extract of whith was — '• In common with other newspapers, we have a " mass of correspondence in reference to the Flying " Squadron. Not being five times the size of the " Australasian, w<^ have not room to publish the " various letters at length, but we here give a " resume of the first that come to hand : — " ' An ex-Naval Officer believes that our naval de- I, :1 \K . I ' C( C( « HOBSON's bay, MELBOURNE. 101 fences should be looked to. We have now in our Bay a body of naval officers of ability, etc., in- telligence, etc. Would it not be well if Admiral Hornby went down to inspect the two guns at the Heads, and gave us his valuable opinion, etc.?' (( ( An Old Sea. Captain knows that many vessels " lie sunk in the deep waters of our Bay. We have, *' in our midst, a body, sir, etc., skill, etc., usefully *• employed, etc., firing guns over the wrecks, in order " to raise them.' " ' Sound Common Sense suggests that much time " is wasted by the workmen on the New Town Hall. " We have now a number of able-bodied, etc., etc., " commanded by officers of experience, etc., etc., — ** could they not conveniently be made use of, to raise *' some of the huge blocks of stone, etc. ?' " ' Father op a Family proposes that a picnic ** should be given at Point Nepean. " We have " now," he says, " a number of young officers, etc., " etc., midshipmen, etc., etc., whose influence would *• be most valuable in forming the manners of our " daughters, etc., etc." ' " * A Bushman would like to know if it would not "be well to send a couple of thousand men up " II yiwy -JJ ' , . ji.i.j.«j;iw. i yj,i.< i .y. . mmmm 102 FLYING SQUADRON. li • •' country. We have now, etc., etc., an intelligent, *' etc., who might lend a hand durine^ the lambing, " etc., etc., and make themselves generally useful at '• the drafting yards.' " ' SciENOE AND Aet would like the process of •' swinging compasses gone through at the Mechanic's *• Institute. " We have now an Admiral, etc., " genius, etc., a lecture from him, etc., swell the •' funds of local institutions, etc." ' " ' An Inhabitant of Geelong remarks that " there '* is now, etc., a body, etc., officers, etc., men, etc., " equal, etc., to any emergency, etc. The gradual " filling up of the harbour is a cause of great dis- " comfort. Might not four or five ship anchor in the " Bay, and spend a few weeks in carefully dredging, " etc. ? >' ' !¥l! " ' Teepsichoeean laments the decline of those " national dances, which tend to elevate alike the *' hearts and legs of every community. We have " now a magnificent, etc., body of men, etc., trained *' in athletic sports, etc. ; could they not assemble on " a fixed day on the pier, and give the sailor's ** hornpipe, etc. ? ' " W' :'t other suggestions might have taken place, if irOBSON S BAY, MELBOURNE. 103 there had only l)een time, it is difficult to contemplate, but anything might be expected after a few of the one'' mentioned. Heaven help Paterfamilias' daughters, if they were formed by the influence of a British midshipman! However, that is a mere matter of opinion, where, perhaps, the ladies differ. TOUCHSTONE: A Saturday Journal of Criticism, Commentary, and Satire. Melbourne, Deo. 4. THE LAMENT OP A PATERFAMILIAS. By one whose Family has been seized with " Flying Squadron " ON THE Brain. Oh, dear I oh, dear ! what shall I do 1 My wife, ray sons, my daughters, too, AVxiut, in manner odd, run ; They early badger me, and late, (They're cranky, just as sure as fate,) About the " Fiying Sr monarch afar, And welcome each gallant commander, Merry middy and jolly tar ! lil'ii*' (i, ;;' ■, 120 PLYING SQUADRON. By thousands we hurry to meet them As they steam up our beautiful harbour, And shout, as exultaut we greet them, " Pray, what do you think of our harbour 1" Oh, brothers ! our hearts cannot tell you How they cling to your jackets of blue — How we honour our country's brave sailors, From the prince to the least of tlie crew ; Hut we'll flock round your vessel ^' 'uorrow, Till our coming shall blacken the harbour. And our voices shall chorus the greeting, " Pray, what do you think of our harbour '(" C/ome away ! we'll have dinners and dances, And all that is pleasant and gay. And we'll o])en our hearts and our dwellings, To gladden you during your stay ; And we'll give you a pic-nic, and show you Where our prince was struck down near our harbour. And while the champagne fizzes brightly. We'll say, " Admire our beautiful harl)our !" Hurrah ! for the brave Flying Squadron ! Cheer boys three times three, and one more ; God keep them while gracing our water?!, ' And speed them when quitting our shore. And when, to our sorrow, they leave us. We'll follow their track down the harbour, And shout a " Good-bye and God bless you !" And " Mind you speak wsU of our harbour." Saturday, 25th, being Christmas Day, a largo number of people came on board the squadron to see the customary festivities, the principal attraction being the dressing up of Jack's messes and the amount of good things they had laid out, in a groat measure owing to the kindness of some of the people of Sydney, who had provided them with unlimited supplies of beef and dough, owing in a great measure II l-. .1,1 SYDNKY TO HOBAltT TOWN. 127 to the efforts of Mr, Robertson, the Premier, in their behalf, and the day, as it always should, passed away with peace and goodwill, and the next after- noon, Sunday, December 2Gth, at one o'clock, found the squadron steaming out of our fine harbour, with few lookers on, owing to the time for sailing being supposed to be late in the afternoon, the inhabitants were hardly out of church, and so we passed quietly out of Australian waters, having for passengers Mrs. Lambert on board the "Liverpool," and Captain Beresford, A.D.C., on board tne " Barrosa," en route for Tasmania ; and thus enaed the visit of the Flying Squadron of 1869 to the great Anglo-Saxon continent of the southern hemisphere, where the welcome was general and genuine, especially in the small and wealthy colony of the south. Directly after get''*Tig outside the harbour, aad pilots being discharges.!, sail was made to a liciit northerly wind, and course shaped for Tasinan'a land, which, after a succession of light winds, chiefly from the southward, was sighted at daylight on the following Sunday, and after being becalmed for the greater part of the forenoon at the entrance to Storm Bay. a northerly wind came to our rescue, and away we went, bowling up one of the finest bays m the world, passing the Iron pot 'I'f'H I' ii I ■nil! 128 FLYiMPt sqttadt?on. Lighthouse, the extreme point of the River Derwent, at half-past twelve, and carrying a strong breeze up, ran past the town, and anchored in 7^ fathoms, im- mediately under the windows of Government Hou?e, and within a stone's throw of the bank of the river, twelve miles from the mouth, which combines as a harbour for large vessels, safety, beauty, and expanse almost unsurpassed in the world. His Excellency the Governor (Mr. Du Cane) and part}'- drove down to the point shortly after noon to see whereabouts the squadron were, and satisfy themselves as to the fact that six men-of-war were realljr coming to Hobart Town ; and when tho squadron appeared to view, they were going up so fast, with a fresh breeze, that the vice-regal party headed homewards as fast as the stud Avould allow, to enable the Governor to be in time to receive tho Admiral at t:he Tasmanian Palace on his arrival. Immediately "ffcer anchoring, Mr. Chichester (Private Secretary to His Excellency) went on board tho " Liverpool " to convey the Governor's welcome to the Admiral, and also once again to place the hospitalities of Government House — which, without wishing to be unduly eulogistic, as the squadron can attest to the many acts of kindness and right I'oyal hospitality which characterized tho house so emiiif^ntly presided over by Mrs. Du Cane — z. ■z, A IMVKIl DKHWf'lNT. Ty\SMANlA. 129 at the disposal of the Admiral. Shortly afterwards, Mr. Wilson (the Premier) went on board the " Liver- pool," to convey the welcome of the Government, and then the Admiral landed, drove up to Govern- ment House, accompanied by Mrs. Lambert and Mr. Chichester, while the squadron were anchoring; and afterwards, we believe ; through a large portion of the night, the domain close to where the squadron anchored was crowded by lookers on, principally of the gentle sex, and during the lovely summer's night many found the domain a not unpleasant place for a midnight stroll. Monday, January 3rd. — The little amusement of manning and arming boats took place in the forenoon, which prevented acfjuaintance being made with the shore, but not the Mayor, accompanied by his Chaplain (Mr. Buckland), going on board the " Liverpool " with the welcome of Hobart Town, and also to express regret that the squadron were obscured by an inter- vening hill from the ladies in the town. At eleven o'clock the Admiral landed to pay his official visit f", the Premier, and in the afternoon the town and surrounding country were full of members of the squadron, e8i)ecifil1y in the neighbourhood of New- Town. His Excellency in his open carriage, with four grays, postilions, and mounted orderlies, drove Q iN' .'a 11: nil ill i:30 FTAINO SQUADRON. the Admiral and Mr. Lambert to see Cook's monu- inent, erecting in honour of the memory of a patriotic mayor, Mrs. Du Cane remaining at home to receive the homage of the captains of the squadron, which was duly offered in the course of the afternoon, and in the evening His Excellency entertained the Admiral, Bishop, Chief Justice, Premier, Attorney-General, with their respective families, and some of the Flying Squadron, at dinner. Tuesday, January 4th. — We will give the leading article which appeared in that day's Tasmanian Times, to give the ideas of the press on the advent of the squadron : — "Now that the Flying Squadron floats proudly and safely on the broad bosom of the Derwent, it is gratifying to observe, or at any rate to ■ believe, that all the petty local jealousies which ' for a moment seemed likely to mar the harmony ' and cordiality of our reception of our gallant ' visitors, have disappeared under the strong pressure ' of the ne"')ssity for maintaining our own repu- ' tation for hospitality, and of an equally strong ' anxiety to offer our guests a loyal welcome, ' on their own account as strangers and yet coni- ' patriots, and also as the typical representatives KIVKR DKIiWKNT, TASMAN'I.V. 1:^1 ** of the glorious naval service of Britain. It is grati- " fjing to see that everything is in train to realize " these aspirations in the happiest and amplest " manner. The hospitable preparations of His Excel- " lency the Governor and Mrs. Du Cane have for some *' time past been communicated to the public. The " Admiral is His Excellency's guest, as the whole " squadron are the guests of the colony. To-night " officers and colonists will meet in large numbers at ** the ball to be given in honour of the squadron at " Government House, And again on Saturday after- *' noon Mrs. Du Cane's ' Ai Home ' will re-unite them " in the garden party announced some weeks ago, and " for which numerous invitations have bean issued. " To-morrow there will be a Town Hall Organ Fund " Concert at the Town Hall. On Thursday night the *' Colonists' Ball takes place at the Town Hall, A ** considerable numier of tickets has been issued for *' this ball, which will probably be graced by the " pr^^isence of Admiral Hornby and some 150 officers •' of the squadron ; and on Friday there will be a " * Flying Squadron Regatta,' when the boats of the •' squadron will be invited to compete for substantial •* prizes, and some formal hospitalities have, we under- •• stand, been projected for the petty officers of the "several ships. These arrangements leave ample FLY I NO SQUAD liOX. (( opportunity for the private hospitalities of those colonists whose circumstances and position enable and require them to receive distinguished strangers and visitors whom the colony delights to honour, at their own houses, and at their own tables. In this rapid glance at the opportunities offered, or to be offered, for the friendly social intermingling of colonists and naval officers, we must not omit to mention that the ships of the squadron are, by the courtesy of the Admiral, thrown open to the public daily during their sojourn in the Derwent, from ten o'clock to sun-down. " The Times recently described the plan of sending a prince of the blood on a circular visit to the British colonial possessions as a happy concep- tion, well calculated to evoke and keep alive the innate loyalty of Englishmen in all parts of the world to the Crown and person of the Keigning Sovereign of the Empire. The satisfactory results of the visits recently paid to the colonies of the Empire by the Duke of Edinburgh, and which are now attending the visit of Prince Arthur to the Canadian dominion, suffice to prove the correctness of this observation, and to justify the execution of a design which does credit to the sagacious statesman- si lip of its author. There is, to our thinking, equal ■■^ RTVEll DHKWEN'P. TASMWFA. 183 *' happiness in tlio suggestion of a Flying Squadron " visiting in turn the principal naval stations and " colonial ports of the British Empire. By this '* means foreigners acquire a juster notion of Eng- " land's position and capabilities as a naval power ; " and the colonies, which need no information on that " head, are brought bodily, as it were, into contact '* with a considerable section, or at any rate with a " large representative sample of the great middle " class of English society and of the masses of the "English people. The Navy has always been the '* more generally popular branch of the military forces " of Great Britain. It is unnecessary to inquire now " why this is so. It is sufficient to state the fact. " And certainly we can conceive no likelier and more " effectual method of cultr/a-ting the sentiment of " English nationality in colonial communities than the " mission of such a body of English seamen, in such a " fleet as now lies at anchor in the Derwent, on a " flying visit to the principal ports and capitals of the " colonies all round the world. ' The expedition,' we " are told by the First Lord of the Admiralty, ' had " ' been fitted out for a cruise of sixteen months, " * partly to afford an opportunity to both officers and " ' men of acquiring that sort of experience which was " ' to be obtained only by cruising in a squadron.' rw 134 FLYING SQU'ArtRON. •' The long prevalence of peace, and the practice of *' isolating our ships on foreign stations— the result of " the peddling economy of the Manchester School *' and ' Peace-at-any-price ' party, have rendered the " British Navy somewhat deficient, possibly, in that " concerted action, in which at the close of the last " great naval war— thanks to the admirable discipline " of Jarvis and the ardour and enthusiasm of Nelson " — it stood unrivalled and unapproached by the " navies of that or of any other period of the world's " history. But this is the technical or professional " side of the question, as suggested by ' the naval " ' advisers of the Admiralty,' with which we have no •* immediate concern. But the moral efiect of a visit " of a section of the Navy to the colonies is a matter " which comes home to us all. Such a visit is " admirably calculated to cement, by firm and en- " during ties, the alliance between English and " Colonial populations, of which no Minister who *' deserves the name of statesman would contem- *' plate the possibility of severance without some- " thing like dismay. Let doctrinaires in politics and " sciolists in economic finance prate as they will of " the worthlessness of the colonies as adjuncts to *' England's greatness, and as a mere source of " expense to the English tax- payer. 1?IVKR DKUWKXT. TASMANIA. 1:^5 (( •' The real sense of ' the people ' both in the Colonies and in the Mother Country, is for union — close and indissoluble. Here, at any rate, we should deplore as nothing less than a national calamity any change in our relations with the Empire that would compel us to think no more of the British Navy as part and parcel of our own national history ; and as the common boast and heritage of Britons, wherever the accident of birth or the enterprise of progenitors may have cast their lot in life. This sentiment which is destined to bind England and the colonies together, in spite of the Goldwin Smiths and the Manchester School, will survive, and, we trust, counteract the maladroit diplomacy of Colonial Ministers. And we may thank Mr. Childers for supplying us, in the visit of the Flying Squadron, with the surest antidote to the merely utilitarian theories of Mr. Bright and the unsympathetic anti-colonial policy of Lord Granville." i In the afternoon the vice-regal party, consisting of the Governor and Mrs. Du Cane, Mrs. Lambert, Archdeacon Reiby, Mr. Chichester, with the Admiral, made a tour of the ships, the ladies hanging fire at the first one, putting themselves under the charge of ■!;i 'M, l«i 'mt' ■'" mL i: 1 1 IP' 9H| 11 i 136 FLYINO SQUADRON. a dislinji^nished captain of a frigate, wliosc previous (liploiiiatic career now stood him in ^ood stead, and Tlis Excellency continued his round, calling on the captains of each ship, and returning to Govern- ment House about six o'clock, preparatory to the ball, which was to take place that evening at Government House, where, at nine o'clock, the doors were opened, and the company poured in to be astonished at the beauty of the room, or, as our correspondent of the Press mentioned, struck with the floral decorations, in which nothing was left undone to dazzle the vision with tlie splendours of the vice-regal palace. Our correspondent was assuredly there, but as we had not the pleasure of seeing him, we conclude he came with the fern trees that were placed at the back of the dais, which, with the lights behind them, produced a very desirable effect, and the room itself looked as well as a pretty room can look, decorated with an amount of flowers, in the profusion of which Tasmania stands unrivalled, and arranged with the greatest talent of artistic taste ; we may thoroughly congratulate Mrs. Du Cane on a rare thing — perfect success ; and as we had heard one constant cry in Australia about the beauty of Tasmanian women, of " Wait till you go to Hobarton," we waited; and as the day drew near, anxiety of 'ty RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 337 increased to see the room which was to be full of dazzling visions, and like most other things in this life that you look forward to with interest, we hope it will not be considered heresy to say that we were a little disappointed as to the amount of beauty in it. That there were pretty girls is undeniable, but that they were very scarce we think is equally so. What nature had not lavished, artifice had usurped the place wiuh little winning ways, and many hearts beat a shadb quicker at the sight of a well-remembered Melbourne face; and, without making invidious selec- tions, we doubtless think that the Misses R e were quite the belles, inclusire of the suffering Aunt Laura, who betrayed the sagacity of a great instinct on more than one occasion ; and, with all going merry as marriage bells, dancing was kept up, with only a partial suspension at midnight, when, according to our Mercury itiend, supper was served in the most superb style, the wines and champagne being of the choicest qualities, and iced — the fact of tho iceing having struck the gentleman so much, we are afraid he must have bolted a bit in the pantry ; and by three o'clock the last white slipper had fled en route to its nest, leaving us alone with the thought of what we had done which we ought not to have done ; and while we were ruminating over the pros and cons B 138 FLYING SQUADRON. nnd the fragrant tobacco before going to bed, the " Barrosa " was steaming regretfully out of the harbour on her way to Melbourne to pick up the Flying Squadron deserters, who had been appre- hended, and where she managed to regain four out of the multitude. Wednesday, January 5th. — The town was kept alive during the day by Jack, who was on leave, and who also was affording great amusement to the people ashore ; and in the afternoon was the picnic, given to the squadron by the citizens of Hobarton, at a place — Rosny — the opposite side of the harbour to the town, where, shortly after one o clock, the '* Kangaroo " steamer took the givers and their guests across, who were shortly afterwards joined by the vice-regal party, and to the immense amusement of the spectators, many of the squadron, including all the supposed stern and unyielding naval poet-captains, save one, played at the scientific game of duckstone. Great was the company of spectators, and loud the applause, when a bearded and decorated captain was seen fleeing, heedlessly down the hill, pursued by an impetuous and hairless midshipman, osme of whom, in his anxiety to do for the duck, Imrled a large portion of a rock, mthout looking to see if anybody's head was in the way. We regret much to say the flaig- I RIVEK DEHWENT, TASMANIA. 139 captain's was, and the result was a st^ere and very ugly-looking cut under the eye ; but as there was no scarcity of medical attendance on tlie ground, who, at the sight of blood, flocked like vultures, Captain Hopkins was, we are happy to say, suffi- ciently recovered as to put in an appearance at luncheon, where we also had the pleasure of meeting the gallant major, who had arrived that morning from Melbourne in the same steamer which brought two young ladies from the same city, who had already made so forciljle an impression on one of our young commanders as to caus" th^t officer several nights of doubtful rest, and when the eventful morning arrived, we heard that a soHtary figure was seen about day- break pacing thoughtfully the small wooden pier of debarkation, anxiously gazing towards the mouth of the river for the then expected steamer, which at last arrived, and with it the eagerly looked for. Then again the sun shone, and the birds sang, and the world looked too bright to last long, as, after the first tender clasp of hands on the wharf, a well-known form was observed raising himself slowly up the hatchway, and springing lightly asliore, displayed, to the almost horror of our friend, the cheerful presence of our major, who accidentally, of course ; happened to be crossing in the same steamer, perhaps for the same }:)urpose, I 140 PLYING SQUADRON. as he was deservedly beloved by many of tlie and the meeting was, we beheve, as cordial as pmai ble, considering a spasm had only just passed throuch one, and then the partial eclipse began, which was destined to become at one time almost total. Imnuidiateiy aiiter- wards, Mrs. Du Cane returned to Government Rouse under the best of protection, in the shape of the arch- deacon ; and shortly after six the company broke up, returning to their respective homes, and m tlie evening His Excellency gave a large dinner to the admiral, ministers, etc., many ladies and naval officers being present. The Admiral received a letter, through the Tasma- nian Times, from the ladies of Hobart 'rown, and for their sakes we must regret the sometimes hardness of the human heart. J^-^r t'fl " Dear Aomieal, — ** We have a favour to ask aic your hands, " and knowmg how ^nd and gaUant uii members of " your proiMMoa aire to such petitioner^ as we, it is " with the better grace aiud more cotiiiding spirit " that we praj you to graait our request. Do, dear *' Admiral, move those fine ships of yours from their " present aDiciiorage, where nobody can aee them at *' advantage, and where tkey are so difficult of access f ItlVEE DERWENT, TASMANIA. 141 <( (C cc (C (( C( (( (( to the ordinary anchorage near the wharf, where the whole town can have a fine view of them, and whore all can conveniently reach them. You must know we like to look at the blue coats and gold buttons (people say the owners of the said coats and buttons like to look at us), but modesty forbids our putting this forward as a plea; and we also like to view their floating home, especially when they come in a fleet to our shores. Now, please do be compliant to our earnest wishes, and be assured every hospitality we can offer will be the more readily extended to the whole of the crews under your command. " And your petitioners will ever pray for fair winds for your squadron when at sea, and sweet smiles to welcome it at every port it enters. " The Lames." m The result, if any, was not apparent, the anchors remaining wliere they were, and the sliips as before obscured fron?. itho light-blue eyes of Hobart Town. Thursday, January 6th. — The day was devoted to the great cricket struggle between the Southern Tasmanian Cricket Association and the Flying Squadron, the Governor leading his Kingdom and the Admiral his Squadron. 142 PLYING SQUADRON. "SOUTIIEEN TASMANIAN CJITCKET ASSOCIATION. FLYING SQUADRQ]^ MATCH. (( (( (( (( <( C( (( <( (C (( (C " A cricket matcli was decided to be played on the Association Ground, in the Domain, yesterday fore- noon, between eleven of the officers of the Squadron and eleven of the above Association. The teams were — Rear- Admiral Hornby, Lieutenant H. T. Wright (captain of the eleven), Lieutenant H. 0. Pearson, H. A. Baring, A. H. Bampton, J. Bruce, T. P. Pearce, R. Prothero, F. E. Eden, D. Henderson, and R. Sparks. The eleven representatives chosen by the match committee were — His Excellency the Governor, Hon. W. L. Dobson, W. Birch, C. Butler, E. Butler, M. Coverdale, G. Davies, C. Perry, T. Sheehy, B. Whitesides, and T. Wliitesides. Umpire for the Squadron, Midshipman Henderson ; for the Association, Mr. T. E. Hewitt; long-stop, Mr. T. Sheehy ; wicket-keeper, Mr. George Davies ; scorer for the Squadron,, Midshipman Prothero — for the Association, Mr. A. K. Chapman. The weather was propitious, but rather windy. A large number of spectators . assembled botii inside and outside the enclosure, niid several carriasrcs and equestrians on horseback. In the Pavilion were seated a goodly number of ladies and gon- 'ilX (( (C (C (< C( (( (< (( (( (( (( (( IirVKK KKinVENT, TASMANIA. 143 tlerjion. At the soutli-west end the Governor's tent was pitched, in which v:as a row of American arm- chairs, in which sat His Excellency, the Hon. Mrs. Du Cane, Mr. C. M, Chichester, A.D.C. ; Mrs. Lambert, Sir Valentino and Lady Fleming, Sir Francis Smith, Hon. T. D. Chapman, and other notabilities. The fine band of Her Majesty's ship " Endymion," in a marquee, performed during the day. A spacious refreslnnent bootli for the cricketers and the public stood on the north-east side of the cricketers' storehouse, erected and kept by Mr. Cowburn, of the Jolly Hatters, Melville-street, who had also in close proximity a booth for the dispensing of Hquids. In addition there were two or three private tents. The concourse of spectators greatly increased towards the afternoon, and much interest was mani- fested by them in the game. About 11 o'clock the squadron eleven were sent to the wickets. Shortly after two o'clock the cricketers retired to luncheon. His Excellency the Governor being at the head of the table. They resumed the play in about three quarters of an hour. Lieutenant Pearson and Sub- Lieutenant Baring began the match, C. Perry and T. Wliitesides Iwjing the bowlers. After scoring four, Pearson was caugiit out by His Excellency, amid loud choors. C. Perry gave up bowling, and 144 FLYING SQUADRON. *' was succeeded by E. Butler. Bampton took the " bat in room of Pearson, but was bowled out by " Butler, after scoring thirteen runs. Baring, who " handled his bat well, was, however, at length " bowled out by Whitesides, and Bruce went to " the wicket. . " The following are the scores : — ( SQUADEON.— First Innings. H L. Pearson, c His Excellency, b T. Whitesides H. H. Baring, b T. Whitesides A. H. Bampton, b E. Butler J. A. T. Bruce, run out by H. Birch ... J. H. Pearce, b E, Whitesides H. T. Wri^rht, c T. Whitesides, b G. Davies ... Admiral Hornby, b £. Whitesides R.C. Pvothero, cT. Sheahy, b E. Whitesides .. F. Edcij, not out Il.-HenLi(!rson, b E. Whitesides R. Sparks, b E. Whitesides No ball, 1 ; byes, 7 ; wides, 5 ; leg byes, 5 ASSOCIATION.— First Innings. T. Whitesides, run out G. Davies, c Bruce, b Knight E. Butler, b Knight C. Perry, b Bampton W. Birch, c Bruce, b Sparks Coverdale, b Pearson ... His Excellency, c Wright, b Bampton... E. Whitesides, b Bampton C. Butler, leg before wicket, b Pearson W. L. Dobson, not out ... T. Sheehy, run out, Bampton Byes, 10 ; leg bye, 1 ; wide balls, 10 ; no ball, 1 4 13 13 18 14 18 4 4 9 1 18 116 34 20 28 22 17 1 1 1 1 22 147 ' mmmmamBsmm HiVER DEIIWENT, TASMANIA. SQ UADRON.- -Second Innings. H. L. Pearson, c C. Butler, b C. Perry F. Eden, b E. Butler H. A. Baring, c T. Whitesides, b E. Whiteaides A. H. Bampton, b C. Perry J. P. Pearce, b E. Whiteaides H. T. Wright, b C. Perry J. A. T. Bruce, c T. Whitesides, b E. Whiteaides Admiral Hornby b C. Perry R. Prothero, b C. Perry R. Henderson, not out R. Sparks, stumped Birch, b T. Whitesides ... No ball, 1 ; byes, 10 ; wide balls, 4 .. 145 19 4 21 5 1 7 5 3 16 80 (( <( (( " The scores will show for themselves. It was intended to determine the match by one innings only, but the Squadron Eleven, to meet the wishes of their friends, went through their second inninv;s, which they finished about half-past six o'clock. It ■will be seen that the total scored by them in the first innings was 116, against 147 scored by the Asso- ciation team, and that the former scored 80 in their second innings. The batting of Pearce, Bruce, Wright, and Pearson, on the Squadron's side, was first-rate, as was also that of Messrs. AVliitesides, Birch, C. Perry, E. Butler, and Coverdale. The fielding, too, was faultless. '* At the close of the play the band struck up the National Anthem, and the cricketers and spectators took their departure;" and in the evening His Excel- . s 146 PLYINQ SQUADRON. lency, as usual, entertained a large party at dinner, including the Major and the Miss Blackwoods ; imme- diately after which there was a general adjournment to the ball given by the colonists of Tasmania in the Tovvnhall, where, at a quarter to ten. His Excellency the Governor, Admiral, and vice-regal party arrived, and were received by a guard of honour of the 14th Regiment and " God Save the Queen " on entering the room, when the real business began; and there we saw some very pretty faces that we had seen at Melbourne before, and consequently there also we saw our stricken Commander in a see-saw state of pleasure and pain ; at one time galled to desperation because the elder sister had departed to supper with an ancient messmate, who of course had done it on purpose ; and the younger one, uncertain, coy, and hard to please, was harder to please than ever ; so a happy thought being suggested by the ancient mess- mate, on his return, ignorant of harrowed feelings, that when tilings are at their worst they must mend, it was received with very bare civility; and so fol- lowed in rapid succession, heat and cold, pleasure and pain, and the feelings of one of the lieutenants of the flagship so ovei'came him that, in the absence of better accommodation, the flirtation was carried on in the cellar, out of which he was quickly bolted, probably lilVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 147 by an ever-watchful rival, the possessor of such captivating charms being his innkeeper's daughter, and his selection, though, was undeniably good ; and for his sake we sincerely regret the inopportune intruder, who frustrated so much. About 400 sat down to supper, after which the good old toast of "^* The Queen, God bless her!" was drunk with three times three and one more. " The Chairman (Mr. "Wilson) proposed the ' Health " ' of His Excellency, the Governor,' and in doing so " said they would all feel gratified by the Governor's " presence, whose ability in the administration of " the affairs of the colony they all knew. No gentle- " man could be entrusted with those duties better " than His Excellency. " The toast being drunk with all the honours, " His Excellency, on rising, begged to thank the " company sincerely for the kind and cordial manner *' in which they had been pleased to respond to the " toast of his health. It gave him sincere pleasure " to take part in the welcome which had been ac- " corded the Admiral and the squadron, wluch, he " behoved, would be an event in the future history " of Tasmania of a memorable character, (Applause.) " He had no wish to resort to the nautical manoeuvre *' of taking the Avind out of the sails of the Colonial 148 FLYING SQUADKON. (C (( " Secretary, who was ready to burst with the eloquent " terms in which he would propose the toast of the " evening — (laughter) — by making a long speech ; but " as the son of a naval oflBcer, and as having sustamed " an office in connexion with the service in England, " and now as Her Majesty's representative in the *' colony, he might express his sincere gratification at " having been able to take any part in suggesting " that the colonists of Tasmania would gladly welcome " this noble squadron ; and as Her Majesty's repre- " sentative, he had ventured to represent it to the powers that be in England, how gratifiying it would be to the colony if some slight deviation of the " Admiralty laws of the Medes and Persians were *' made as regarded the route of the squadron — (ap- *' plause) — and he trusted the Admiral and his officers " would never have to regret it ; but when the perils " and dangers of the cruise of the Fljdrig Squadr.M " had terminated, their week's visit to Hobarton " would be amongst the sunniest of their recollections, " and more especially of the fairer portion of creation. *' (Applause.) " The Chairman then asked the company to join " with him in drinking the ' Health of their gallant " ' visitors, Rear- Admiral Hornby and the officers of " *the Flying Squadron.' They were met to ofi'er a inVER DEUWENT, TASMANIA. 149 of a (« « (( cc ti (( (( (« (( (( c< l( (( (C (< welcome to them, and to do them honour. Tliey were welcome to the shores of Tasmania for the sake of the noble service of which they were tlie representatives ; they were now welcome, since they had known them on their own account, (Cheers.) As English colonists they were proud to see such a squadron in their watei's as they had witnessed during the week, and they must always look back with pleasure on this auspicious visit. To His Excellency they were indebted for having interceded with the authorities at home for the noble fleet to come here. He shoidd only say that they would long reflect on the satisft ,ction and happiness which the visit of the fleet of noble ships to the waters of Tasmania had caused, not only to those who were present, but to the entire community. He trusted that when the squadron took its departure — for its visit could not be prolonged — the gallant Admiral and his officers would carry with them some happy recollections of Tasmania when they were far dis- tant. (Cheers.) TJiey should look with some degree of interest to the future of the squadron, and in time to come the colony would feel proud to recol- lect their visit here. " The toast was then drunk with three times three, several times repeated. I' ■ 150 KLYlNd SQITADRON. " The Admiral, who was rocoived with a frcsli demonstration of esteem, asked to be allowed on his own behalf, and on behalf of the officers of the Flying Squadron, to return their sincere tlianks, not only for the way in which they had received the toast and good wishes expressed, but generally for the kind reception they had received here and else- where. It was quite true that their fortunate brethren, who had been able to spend a longer time here, had been able to give flattering accounts of the colony ; in other lands they had told of the beauty of the climate, the beauties of the scenery, and other beauties — (a laugh) — but, above all, of the great friendliness mtli which their countrymen had received them here ; but they (the Admiral and officers) could take up the tale for themselves, and with sincere satisfaction repeat those tales, not only in the same, but in an exaggerated form. His Excellency had alluded to the manner in which the squadron had come here. Now, although the Board of Admiralty was accustomed to be abused — (a laugh) — it was an ill wind that blew nobody any good, and the Admiralty did them good when they directed them to come to this magnificent harbour. (Applause.) The Colonial Secretary had talked of perils the squadi'on would still have to encounter.^ and that f IMVER DEUWKNT, TASMANIA. 151 was one of tliose pleasant remarks winch had been made to him before. It had been said that when they went from New Zealand they wonld lose their ships ; his own was to go down, others were to fall on rocks ; and truly, if they chanced to make so much wreck of their ships as the ladies had made of the hearts of the officers, they would not have much chance. (Laughter.) Thanking them for the kind manner in which the company had listened to him, he begged to drink their healths. (Applause.) " His Excellency and the Admiral then returned to the large hall, and another relay proceeded to the supper-room. Dancing was continued until an ad- vanced hour in the morning, and the company generally, the younger portions in particular, will long remember the satisfaction produced at the colonists' ball to the squadron officers." And it was not until Friday? 's sun gave unmistakable warning of his approach, that the company, lingering on as long as hapless chaperones could stave off nature's rights, cloaked, hooded, and fled before the searching rays of the summer's dawn. Friday, January 7th, was a general hoHday, and ushered in by a glorious Tasmanian summer's morn — a royal day for the people, who came down from all parts to see the five ships from the Mother '! 1' :■ K| 1 152 rhVING SQUADRON. I ' Conni ry, and to enjoy a gala day. Tery early ha the morning there were fourteen or fifteen thousand. peopl(! on the banks of the river, and shortly afteir eleven o'clock the regatta commenced, with a pro— gramuie of as nearly as possible alternate races foir civiUa:is and the squadron, the whole arrangement, as w.'ll as the orierous duties of settling blue- jackets' dispute , ■ _ carried out bv a committee composed ^f f^iHliann ;md three lieutenants of the-^ squadron, wjltto were --ntertained at a 'rumptuoua lunch in ike eomin" -oooth ; on which occasion,. one of the 8( > .mittee-men, thinking of his previous nigh .<_ ji returning thanks for the ladies, bee ■ ■ • ai listde comiised, expre.-oevi a wish to see more ot tabiMiu wmc s received witn tumul- tuous applause. We lanet ai>oiogize for rakmg these old stories up, and oniy do m> m case that mothers, sisters, and those dear at Iioiibl. watching with anxious eyes the career of their darlinr in distant lands, should think the remark odd on his part, and to assure them that the champagne luckily ^as good, and the mean- ing wished to be conveyed was to stay longer with them. At one o'clock His Exeellency embarked in the " Liverpool's " barge, to- pay his official visit to the Admiral, being received by the squadron mth manned yards and tho usual sahates, which was il; ; it. ' 1 a I p-',n. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Bvr ^. l^ivlW Ki:-.;-./;"P' i 1 ! f '-1 'i fa 1 B li- j,; i T 5,.'J| m RIVEli DKinVKN'T, TASMANIA, 15;^ returned by the battery; tlie Admiral entertain iiii^; His Excellency and party, with liie Ministers, Heads of Departments, our Major, etc>, with their better halves [not the Major's |, at luncheon; after which formality was disposed of, the ladies commenced to arrive for an afternoon dinner ; foremost amongst whom were the Miss Grreenwoods, who, Ave regret to say, were attired for the road and not for society, and who shortly left us forlorn, en route for the Squadron Eden at Kew Norfolk, and innnediately afterwards we lost the company of the three-striped fly, struggling in a web with two ruthless spiders (we are happy to say that salt water has fully sus- tained its curative properties and the much-mangled heart is once more whole). Then happened a small incident during the afternoon's entertainment, which detracts very visibly from the general notion of the gallantry of the British naval officer. A youiig, gushing, and slightly eccentric fair one, having for a partner a young, but not very gushing lieutenant, suggested, as they paused exhausted, during an interval intiiemazy dance, in a mild and gentle voice, that they really got on so nicely together, that she thought they might try another dance, and ho most ungallantly, not reciprocating tlie tender passion, treacherously ])laced the confiding one's name down -u 'jij «1 if 154 PLYING SQUADRON. m for the last dance, and as soon as society permitted, 1 lurried away to his cabin and made rapid preparations for the shore ; but in tlie mean time, unfortunately for him, his late partner, having subdued a more tractable companion, and compelled him to show her the lowtT regions of the ship, where she spied her partner for the last dance ; actually ; much pain as it gives us to say it, in a state of drawers, and boldly advancing into the hitherto-believed sanctuni, the fearless and undaunted maiden, with imperial air, instantly ordered the uniform coverings to be replaced over the afore-mentioned article, and remaining gloating over her now crushed victim nntil the last tAvist of the necktie, when she returned triumphant to the scenes of previous bliss with her false one, and we heard forgave him, before the sun set on her wrath, sliortly after wliich time the company returned to the shore, leaving a large proportion of the squadron in- quiring eagerly as regards the price of land in Tas- mania, and other minor matters connected with a lastino* residence in the garden of the South. In the evening. Government House largely entertained, as usual, and the next afternoon (Saturday) being the last week- day, a general meeting took place to celebrate Mrs. Du Cane's garden party on the terrace of Government House, and there were gathei-ed togethei- all the youth, IMVKW DKKWKNT, I'ASMAMA. 155 beauty, and faHliion for miles round, giving it an ap- pearance of uniiHual animation, muslin and midrfliip- men being in gi-eat force. MubiC, secluded paths, croquet, and other out-door feminine amusements were largely patronized for some time, until a west wind, that had been inclined to be boisterous all the after- noon, began to blow the gauzy frocks about to such an extent as to imperil modesty and the detection of tops ; not silk, when there was a general rush to tlie ball-room, where, in the excitement of whirling to Flying tunes, and utterly regardless as to the price of silk, the time was pleasantly wiled away till six o'clock, when there was a general break-up, to meet at the theatre afterwards, where the Squtidron Amateurs apjMjared again, this time for the benefit of the Organ Fund, and they had every reason to be satisfied with the house, for, with the exception of the private theatre of a sultan (if tliey have such things), there never were so many of the fair sex gathered t/Ogcther in proportion to the unfair sex (as a lady novelist of repute designates man), we should think, in one theatre before; and, with a pair of powerful gUsHUS, yo« might occasionally observe part of a whisker, ot- a raale nose, poked out of the sea of musUn to pr» v«'nt total suffocation, and almost as (piickly withfh-awn, his attempts to sustain life mate- i* 156 flyinl: squadron. rially affecting tlie packing- of the box, and drawing on his head the anathemas of sixteen infuriated ladies ; under some circirnstances the head may have been supposed to have been a lucky one, but hardly with the thermometer at ninety degrees. At the conclusion of the perfofmance the house gave three cheers for His Excellency, Mrs. Du Cane, and three for the Admiral, who seized the opportunity of turning round to place a bowl of flowers about two feet in diameter, whioli had previously been on the cushion in the Grovernor's box, on to the top of an old lady's shoulder in the pit. We congratulate the old one on the escape of her head, as dissolution worJd have been inevitable ; as it was, a severe shock only to the system was the result, and we must hope there was not a similar one to her loyalty, as the old lady had shown liei- i\p])reciation of Her Majesty's representative by violently waving her gingham. Afterwards there was a large supper entertainment at (irovernnient Hoiise. Sunday, January 9th. — In the morning the ships were crowded with visitors of all classes of the com- munity, to enjoy the novelty of ship and short service. The vice-regal party went on- board the " Liverpool," and the head of the Tasmanian Church preached on board the '- Endyniion." The afternoon was devoted UIVER DKRWENT, TASJIANIA. i; 0/ to tender pnrtings of a very non-ordinary order, all Hobart [;Town and the surrounding country l)ein<>" largely'^^sprinkled Avitli weeping men and wailing women, the hospitable house of beauty at New Town becoming temporarily a house of woe, the heaviest sufferers being those that recklessly stayed for evening service, tea, etc., and finishing almost fatally Avith poor mamma going to bed with such a herdache. In the evening, His Excellency gave his farewell enter- tainment to the Flying Squadron, and prayers for the safety of the squadron were read by the Bishop at the evening service in the Cathedral. " Tasmanian Times,'^ Monday, lOf/i January, 1870. " This morning will Avitness the departure from our " shores of the Flying Squadron. It is impossible not " to part with it without regret, but we may console " ourselves wit>i the reflection that our guests of the " past week nave enjoyed their visit, and that all has " been done that could be done without extravagance " or ostentation, \n the way of welcome. The proverbial " hospitality of Cxovernmenr House has well sustained " the credit of the colony in this jiarticular ; nor have " the colonists been wanting to themselves either in " the public or private entertainment of their naval " visitors. And we veiitui'e to beheve that their Tas- mm iT 1 r>H rr,viN(; sgi;.\it|{('■' litt III 2.2 ■ 40 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ,\ « '% \5 \ \ N^ . ^ ^. ^v \ ^. » rv 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ MP t> (( (( tt tt (( « <( <( (( (( (( RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 161 welcome to us, whether they visit us on a peaceful errand as passing guests, or in cause of science, or as our succourers and defenders in times of war and in the hour of danger. They constitute for us the embodiment of the most thoroughly national and popular element of British institutions. And we now bid them heartily farewell, and wish them God-speed on their voyage of duty and their mis- sion of peace. Go where they may, our best wishes for their safety and comfort will follow them till they reach once more, in the old land, ' the haven * where they would be.' And go where they may, we venture to believe they will carry with them a pleasing recollection of their Tasmanian welcome." From an early hour in the morning the bank of the river gradually became alive with people to look their farewell on the soon departing squadron. At 9 o'clock His Excellency, Mrs. Du Cane, Mrs. Lambert, Mr. Chichester, and the Archdeacon went on board the ** Liverpool," to go dowp the river as far as the Iron-pot Lighthouse, at the mouth; and by 10 a.m., the squadron were all a- weigh, the only drawback for sailing-ships, being the almost total absence of wind, which failed altogether when the U 16J FLYING SQUADRON. 11 i ■> " Liverpool " tried to start, and when the ladies clustered on the bank, evidently meditating going on board by means of the stern ladder, she was obliged to anchor, and be towed in the middle of the stream by the " Southern Cross " T S S, where there was a light air from the southward, making it a dead he' t out of the river, evidently with the intention of allow- ing time to see the scenery, which was too lovely for pen and ink to give an idea : the town, at the head of a small bay on the bank of the river, covered with waving bunting, of every shade and colour, and appa- rently nestling itself under the shadow of Mount Wellington, frowning ruggedly in the back ground ; the whole scene being lighted up by thousands of people, the greater portion wearing muslin dresses, clustering on every bank and point to kiss a hand or wave a handkerchief; and as the eye travelled higher up the river, and you saw the most picturesque of Colonial Government Houses rising apparently out of a scarlet hill, the banks one mass of geraniums, you came to the conclusion that nature had been singu- larly lavish to this, the fairest land on earth for Saxon homes. The beating out was commencing to get rather tedious, until the "Liflfey" and " Scylla" relieved the monotony by testing the properties of the wooden \ RIVER DEinVENT, TASMANIA. 163 ram, " Liffey " getting off worst, carrying away jib- boom, dolphin-striker, a.fd spritsail-gaff, and injuring some men, the " Scyila " only losing her fore-chain plates; and as "Liffey" anchored immediately, they fell clear, and shortly after half-past four " Liffey " weighed again under a double-reefed foretopsail. The '* Southern Cross " and " Monarch " (Tasmanian steamers) accompanied the squadron, crowded with extra ambitious people, to see the last ; and at five o'clock, as the Iron-pot was some considerable dis- tance off, and the wind, if possible, more fitful than ever, the vice-regal party deserted the " Liverpool " for the *' Southern Cross," and steaming round the squadron, were received by each ship with tlireo times three, bands playing, etc., the prevailing tunes being " Auld Lang Syne," " Good-bye, Sweetheart," " The Girl I left behind," etc. ; and what we may alto- gether call an enthusiastic ovation, that was certainly sincere, and was the only opportunity given, of showing the squadron's appreciation of the pleasant days spent in Tasmania, and the never-ending hospitality of Government House. As the steamer turned her head back again to the town, the most sanguinary were com- pelled to reconcile to themselves the ghastly fact that the last link was severed, and experiencing with the reconciliation, an uncomfortable choking sensation, il" ! I 164 PLYING SQUADRON. well known to the outward-bounder. Shortly after the steamer disappeared, the hardly-perceptible air became imperceptible, forcing the squadron to anchor still inside tho river, and with the point just in sight, behind which lay the town that contained so many ; so much ; and which was watched with such anxious eyes till darkness hid it from view, in the wild hope of an enterprising steamer making its appearance as a profitable speculation. The next morning, at 4 a.m., the squadron weighed under sail with a light breeze from the S.W., which increased as we opened Storm Bay, starting us fairly on our way, and then gave way to a fresh N.E. breeze with heavy rain ; the wind remaining variable until noon of the 14th, when we were again bowling along before the brae west winds ; passing 10' to the northward of the Snares on the morning of the 16th, then hauling up the East Coast of New Zealand, and the winds becoming light and variable, anchored off Port Levy Rocks, outside Port Cooper (the Harbour of Lyttleton), the wind being very light, the tide very strong, and both coming dead out of harbour, at half-past seven in the evening, that day counting as a harbour one out of the liberal number allowed, and we congratulated our- selves on having accomplished the feat of crossing the cold, bottomless sea, torn by Arctic currents, swept by PORT COOPER, LY'lTLETON, N.Z. 165 ''olar gales, and traversed in all weathers by a mountainous swell, without encountering any one of those peculiarly disagreeable freaks of Nature, and agree with Blackwood's Democracy beyond the seas, that the author of " Greater Britain's Sketches " are singularly vivid. At 4 a.m. next morning, Wednesday, 19th, weighed under sail, and beat three miles up a narrow bay against a light foul wind, the *' Liverpool " anchoring at half-past eight, and some of the ships not arriving in their berths until the afternoon ; nevertheless, according to Act of Parhament, it was another of the limited number of harbour days, on a very com- pressed principle. Immediately after the " Liverpool " anchored, Mr. Rolleston, the Superintendent of Canter- bury, went on board to welcome the Admiral, and also to express the great pleasure with which the aristo- cratic and prosperous province of Canterbury welcomed the squadron from the Mother Country, notwithstand- ing that at the time New Zealand was writhing in gall, under the influence of, perhaps, one of the most injurious despatches that ever left our colonial office, and the benefit of which we have yet to reap, as the time is not yet ripe, but when it is, we shall probably find a great change in the geography of the Southern Ocean, and one hardly palatable to a true Engli? .nan. 166 FLYINO SQUADRON. The conflicting state being fully appreciated in the colony. The Great Power that was able to send six large men-of-war to her most distant colonies, and the yet grep/ter one which the grasping Manchester School had gained, in order to enable them to dictate a Colonial Minister's despatch ; and as that despatch and the squadron arrived in New Zealand about the same time, we venture to think the feeling of the North and South Island in respect to it were somewhat antago- nistic, the South being one of unbelief that it could be possible for the great country, still looked to as being and called Home, of Great Britain, to wish to separate herself from her colonies, especially New Zealand, bone of her bone, as undoubtedly she is, while, on the other hand, a very general feehng in the Northern Island WPS, that it must be a matter of a very short time, and the sooner the amputation was over, the sooner the heahng process would commence; but from high to low there was but one feeling, and that, of uni- versal condemnation at the despatch which bore Lord Granville's name. And whatever happens in those distant parts of our dominions, whether it be a Federation of the Australian Colonies, Tasmania, and New Zealand, under one great Southern Re- public, or whether New Zealand stand aloof from her great Sister Isle, we do not expect to wait long PORT COOPER, LYTTLRTON, N.7.. 167 to see the introduction to the dismemberment, and at the same time we must totally disagree with the Aathor of " Greater Britain," when he casually remarks that the power of his favourite country, America, is predominant in the Pacific, which we doubt exceedingly ; that the Sandwich Islands are all but annexed — to which statement we beg entirely to dififer ; and concluding with the extraordinary assertion that Japan is all but ruled by America, which, to any one with the slightest knowledge of that country, is so utterly absurd that we must regret exceedingly to think that his information on so great a point should have been so singularly erroneous. We here give the opinion of the Melbourne Press, which went the round of the colonial papers. " Earl Granville's Policy. " (From the Argus.) " The colonial policy of the Imperial Government, ** as enunciated by Earl Granville in his New Zealand " despatches, is calculated, if persevered in, to produce " a feeling of dissatisfaction and distrust throughout " the whole of the British dependencies. So far as " this colony is concerned, we should be doing it an " injustice were we to permit a doubt to be cast upon " its disposition to accept the responsibility of defend- " ing itself against the ordinary local assaults to which ' 168 PLYIN(i SQUADRON. fc " such a community is liable. Without adopting Mr. " Higginbotham's braggadocio, by which we pledge " ourselves to defend the colonies and assist it against " invading armies and navies, we are all agreed that " the maintenance of the Queen's authority in Victoria " may be safely entrusted to the hands of the Queen's " loyal subjects in this land. The language made use " of by Her Majesty's present advisers, however, has " started a difficulty which ought never to have arisen " in any part of the British Empire. Earl Granville, "in his last published despatch to Governor Bowen, " protests against the Imperial Government being " asked for assistance to sustain a pohcy which it does " not direct, and which it is not able to foresee. " This amounts to a declaration that the Imperial " authorities decline to accept any further trouble or ** responsibility, in respect to colonies whose policy ** is removed from theit* direction. This sentiment " is applauded by a portion of the English Press, " and is virtually endorsed by a statesman of de- ** servedly high standing — Earl Grey — who, in his ** letter to Mr. Youl, upholds the same doctrine ** that the responsibility of the Imperial Government " be proportioned to the control it exercises over «' the affairs of the colony. Under the policy thus " proclaimed, it becomes a question for consideration Li PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. lO'J not only in New Zealand, but in all colonies enjoying partially independ ^nt government, what is the meaning amongst them of the term, Queen's authority, which is the nominal source of all legal process and final sanction of all legislation? Though, fortunately not troubled with a warlike and restless aboriginal population, Victoria, like all other countries and sections of countries, is Jiable to be harassed by disaffection among certain portions of her own children. Already in her brief history have her constituted authorities had to resist and put down what must, for want of better designation, be termed insurrection. Crowds of ill-advised men rose in arms against the ' Queen's authority,' and with opposing arms had to be strongly encountered. In those days there was no doubt as to what was implied by the * Queen's authority,' and little difficulty found in resolutely maintaining it. Supposing, however, in the present day, a section of the population of Victoria were to declare itself dissatisfied with the existing rule, and take up arms against it, what position would the loyal subjects of the Queen, and especially Her Majesty's representatives, occupy in the eyes of Earl Granville and those who endorse the sentiment he has expressed ? X ]70 FLYING SQUADRON. " People not gifted with the ruthlessly logical ** acumen upon the possession of which Earl Granville ** has been complimented, have hitherto presumed that " the presence of the Queen's representative as " governor of a colony sufficiently demonstrated that " her Majesty had still a voice in ' directing the " policy ' of the >'3oiony, and Avas able, to some extent, '* to ' foresee ' it. Such being the case, it was never " doubted until now that what is known as the " Queen's peace would, if necessity arose, be enforced " to the utmost of the Queen's power. The colonists, " in short, regarded themselves as resting, in common " with other English subjects, under the aegis of the *' English throne, and as certain of protection, if they " stood in need of it, as if they resided in Middlesex. " The new law on this head, which is being propounded " by the mouths of English statesmen, comes upon " them with the force of a startling novelty. Ground " which they had imagined to be unassailable is sud- " denly cut from under them, and they are no longer " able to forecast with certainty what would be the " course the Queen's representative might be in- " structed to take in the extremely unlikely event of •• a rebellion occurring. So far as this colony is con- ** cerned, as we have said, it is quite capable of pro- •' viding for its internal tranquilUty without asking for logical ranvillo ed that live as ed that ng the extent, ,8 never as the enforced olonists, common is of the 1, if they Middlesex. )pounded aes upon Ground e is sud- no longer Id be the it be in- j event of ny is con- )le of pro- asking for (t (( <( (( uy enjoying a premature independence. In the event of the latter making its presence actively felt, would those who rushed to uphold the Queen's authority find that they were contending on behalf of a shadow ? Would the authority they sought to support melt away in the heat of the conflict ? *' It would seem, from the terms of Earl Granville's despatches, that what he terms the Imperial Go- THjmment is something quite apart from and in- dependent of the nominal control of the Crown ; otherwise he could scarcely hp4,ve so completely over- looked the fact that every colony, no matter how free may be its local ^idministration, possesses, as a part of its governing system, an ofl&cial who repre- sents the Queen, without whose sign-manual no money can be expended, and no Act of Parliament become law. Surely so long as this is the case, the Queen retains a directing influence over the policy of every colony, and cannot disown her ] 1 1: '"^^^^^H '■'. ill 1 jiM. 1 172 FLYINO SQUADRON. •' authority when troubles arise. According to Earl " Granville, she rules only when all is peaceful and " pleasant ; if a storm threatens, she can lend neither " active assistance nor moral support. Is this how '* we are taught to regard the sometime proud " position of forming a part of the British Empire ?" Shortly after twelve o'clock, the Admiral went ashore with Mr. Rolleston at Lyttleton, which was a good two miles from the anchorage, and where a special train was waiting to take the officers to the Canterbury Races, which, unfortunately, very few could avail themselves of, owing to the requirements of Her Majesty's ships after arriving in harbour ; but towards the end of the day a good many arrived at the course, where the stand and racing were both conducted in a way that would have done credit to an English county, and where the committee, assisted by Mr. Cracroft Wilson, of Indian fame, performing the onerous duties of Judge, showed how heartily , they welcomed any one from home, as those bred and born in the colonies still prided themselves in calling the Mother Country, and in which they were ably supported by the fair of Canterbury, who ornamented the stand, and who were pleased to be exceeding gracious to those whose paths were on the great PORT COOl'ER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 173 waters, and after a capital day's racing, an adjourn- ment was made back to Christchurch by rail and road, about six miles, where the club was overrun by the squadron, to the detriment, we are afraid, of members, who placed that exceedingly pleasant house at the disposal of the officers. In the evening Mrs. Studholme's ball took place, in celebration, we hope, of her husband's winnings with his game old horse, Knottingley. The next day, Thursday, January 20th, there was a great rendezvous at the club, where the break and six, driven by Mr. Cole, the Premier of coachmen, was provided for the Admiral, Mr. RoUeston, and a number of gentlemen, including many of the squadron, in a way that those who sat behind, unac- customed to New Zealand driving, will not easily forget, especially the hand-gallop turn at the stand, wliere the company being safely deposited, the racing began, and bookmakers also striving to realize coinage out of the squadron, on the principle, we suppose, that only the fool of the family goes to sea, but we are afraid that they were not altogether successful, as it appeared that the naval officers had every intention of keeping the little they had amongst themselves; where we had the pleasure of meeting Colonel H n, well known in Her Majesty's i\. 174. FLYING SQUADRON. Navy, and who, we hope in course of time, will carry a marshal's baton in his adopted land. The racing was decidedly good, and the day unexceptionable, the only misfortune being that when Mr. Studholme's old horse stretched himself, no weight they could legitimately make him carry appeared to have any effect on him, his only compeer at all being a horse of such decidedly peculiar manners and indifferent temper, that he seldom cared about winning, but when he did he could frequently accomplish it. His worthy owner, who was always obliged to hold him- self in readiness for such an event, had to employ a policeman at an exorbitant rate to station himself at a neighbouring gate, about two hundred yards from the post, in order that when his colours were seen first by the post, the gate was to be immediately secured, as usually when the noble animal won, he was so pleased with himself, that never slacking pace, and using the gate as a thoroughfare, he never stopped until arrival at his own stall, some miles off, which forfeited to his worthy owner the dearly won stakes ; the only drawback of the day being the total absence of petticoats from the stand, the ladies undergoing a quiet preparation before the ball, of sofa, tea, and gossip, the ball being held in the Towi Hall, and there all Canterbury that were able to leave their PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 175 yards sheep, it being the shearing season, were assembled to welcome the blue and gold, and Avith the exception of the heat, in consequence of the builders having taken the precaution of making the windows a fixture, to which the black-hole of Calcutta might have appeared chilly, a very enjoyable evening was passed, owing in a great measure to the unceasing kindnesses and exer- tions on the part of Mr. Rolleston and the committee to accommodate the seekers for partners, with the wished-for ones, in which they were eminently suc- cessful ; and we parted regretfully at an hour near approaching dawn, with the hopes of meeting the next day on board the " Liverpool." Friday, January 21st. — The Admiral entertained about 300 ladies and gentlemen on board the " Liver- pool" at luncheon, and dancing afterwards, which was kept up until six o'clock, when, as dusk was coming on, it forced the ladies back again to Lyttletou, a distance of two miles, in pouring rain, which, in a boat, is doubly uncomfortable, and especially as there happened to be a rather disagreeable sea on at the time, for which we were truly sorry ; our only hope being that after arriving at home, which we were glad to hear was done safely, the reminiscences on their side were as pleasant as ours ; the only g" st left on board the " Liverpool " being the f-r W !, li 176 FLYING SQUADRON. Colonel, who stayed to enliven the company with his New Zealand experiences, which took a large portion of the night, and a still larger one of gin (for the listeners as well), in return for which act of charity the gallant Colonel was landed on the rocks abreast the ship at daylight, with a pleasing walk of two miles and a half over a barren sheep-run, in prefer- ence to taking a passage to Wellington. Before leaving Canterbury we must give a specimen of the Admiral's correspondenut; in New Zealand : — " Christchurch, 22nd January, 1870. " To Lord High Admiral " Hornby commanding ** The Flying Squadron &c &c Port Cooper. C( *' Sir, " I am by the Grace of God Grandson of *' George III and Maitildia Late King and Queen of *' Great Britain &c &c &c Issiue of Queen Maitildia II. ** with the Late Prince of Hanover who was murdered w^mn^mmifiimimw. with his portion (for the charity abreast of two I prefer- Before a of the 7, 1870. iidson of ^ueen of itildia II. nurdered <( tt tt « ft tt tt tt if tt tt tt (C (( tt tt tt tt ft PORT COOPEE, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 177 in England about the year 1837 I will give a small sketch of what is my aime I was along with Victoria about the year 1830 when she assygned the throne I was gone to Scotland a Child But Brought to Receive the Crown aloung with hir She Received the diadiem I Received the Crown I was a little child in Scotland when Barron George 4 Titled King Endeavoured to Decoy my Orandmother into Marrage aloung Barron Blyth and Cay when the cannie Scots was Endeavouring to starve the baby me So the Dutches of Kent came to look after her only Heir and offspring of the once illus- trious House of Brunswick and Hanover I remained in Scotland until the Death of my Grandmother and Likewise victoria which was both murdered within 9 miles of each other. " The Consequence was I was lefb in the dark untill lately when They began to Plant so maney Princes and Princesses the could Tallie with all the Rest of Europe So I Received Spirits affirming my wrights to the Crouns So you Holding So High a Station Eather under George Fiv*^ or old Isabella Branden whose family I was carried to Scotland To Be Brought up in Education as the EngHsh Schools was not Large Enough So your Consideration Y 178 PLYING SQUADBON. ■!•. •; n f •• will oblidge. The trouth of which I will answer (C For. " I am Dear Sir " Yours " Respectfully " Carrying the adopi,ed family name " Adress William Sharp " care of Mr. Hall " Cooper " Kaiopoi " Canterbury (C tl tt (C (( (C (( cc To Lord High Admiral " Hornby " Commanding " His Majesty's Ships " Port Cooper " On Her Majesty's Service Commanding " G-entleman " From Spirits Received I came to the Knowledge that neather the Marquies of Waterfourd Nor Sir Co'ien Camble is dead as Reported But Sent to Westren Australia as Convicts By Some London swell mob Gang to come in possession of their estates I hoop as it becomes A man of Standing as your PORT COOPER, LY'lTLETON, N.Z. 179 " Calling is I hoop you wile take means to Satisfie " the Report and Reahze the Prisoners " Yours &c. " W. S. " G. 5"." We regret to say that the Admiral took no steps either to release Sir CoHn Gamble, or place William Sharp on his rightful pedestal ; but doubtless the next history of England will overflow with Mr. Sharp's hardships, and we trust that his spelling will improve before he hangs his hat in Windsor Castle, and hope the neighbouring school will be of sufficient size, where he win also have the advantage of an introduction from the Admiral to the Provost. In Canterbury, where all had vied to show every kindness and possible ci^ihty to the squadron, any personality would be out of place ; but we are obhged to make one exception, on account of the unwearying exertion of Mr. Marshman, the General Manager of the Railway, to please everybody, running any number of special trains for anybody and everybody, either if they missed a train, or wished to go up to a ball at night, wliio^ he certainly succeeded in doing most completely, as regards the squadron; we do not answer for the driver, but almost fancy that even he rather Hked the excitement for the time, and wo only hope that Mr. w. m^- i'r •I n _iW-5te 180 FLYING SQUADRON. Marshman knows how grateful the squadron were for his incessant labours, as he appeared to live on the line, day and night, in a chronic state of going back- wards and forwards, 40 miles an hour. Saturday, January 23rd. — Shortened in cable at daylight, and employed until ten o'clock waiting for wind, when the squadron weighed with a light foul wind, and had to beat out a distance of three miles, which feat was accomplished in five hours, and then we stood along the coast with a hght southerly wind, the scenery, as we went on, being very fine, the New Zealand range of Alps running all the way along, broken every here and there by a small estuary, re- lieving the eye of the monotony of one incessant rugged outHne. And we will give an extract here, though it appeared afterwards copied in the Wellington Independent^ to show that Canterbury appreciated the humble en- deavours of the squadron to return some of the kind- nesses received : — " The reception on board H.M.S. ' Liverpool,' " carrying the flag of Rear Admiral Hornby, was so *' grateful an acknowledgement of the hurried compli- " ments, public and private, which the sudden arrival " of the squadron only permitted Canterbury to offer " to the representatives of the Royal Navy on the PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 181 present occasion, that we feel we cannot say too much in appreciation either of the elegant hospi- tality of Admiral Hornby, of his officers, who so heartily carried out his views, or of the well-bred courtesy, which pervading the ship, found expres- sion in every individual high and low on board. The purposes of the Flying Squadron are known perhaps only to My Lords of the Admiralty. It is not new to us to find English men-of-war clean, ship-shape, and formidable, nor their officers gentlemen, but if the commission of the Admiral included instructions to convey to the colonies that sentiment of good feeling and brotherhood which obtains amongst Englishmen at home and abroad, we take leave to say, the commission could not have been placed in better hands. " We cannot disguise the fact that such a demon- stration is by no means inopportune at the presf nt juncture of affairs between New Zealand and the home country. Whatever makes England better acquainted (as she well needs to be) with the several communities forming the colony, or, on the other hand, causes our general public to be impressed with the friendly feeling of our fellow countrymen, is valuable to England and the colonies far beyond the cost of the outfit of the squadron. * I s ■ rHm 182 FLYING SQUADUON. " There may be some discussion about details in " management of the Colonial portion of the British " Empire, but as a writer has observed, Bonaparte, " in describing * ships, colonies, and commerce,' did ** not see that * colonies ' meant all three. Let us •• trust the Colonial O^ce may have more sagacity." And the next day was passed making the best of our way to the northward, under the shadow almost of the frowning range of Alps, with light and variable winds, which lasted until the squadron opened Cook's Straits, when it commenced as usual to blow strong from either N.W. or S.W., the narrowness of passage, with high land on either side, giving it the properties of a very efficacious funnel, which we had always heard appertained to the passage discovered by Captain Cook, and which we have no reason to dis- pute, and also for which reason, WelUngton has the credit, and, we think, deservedly, of having a larger annual allowance of winds, than any known spot on the habitable globe, so much so, that when you see a man in London clutching the brim of his hat violently at arriving at the corner of a street, on a calm summer's day, you recognise his native place immediately. Steam was got up at half-past two in the afternoon, in consequence of the wind being foul, and also too strong for Her Majesty's fast-saihng PORT NICHOLSON, WELLINGTON. 183 frigates to beat against, but not to prevent a convoy of steamers coming out of the Heads of Port Nichol- son, crowded with pleasure seekers, eager to give the first welcome to their countrymen, and amidst a volley of cheers, waving of hats, hands, and handker- chiefs, the squadron steamed slowly through the Heads of Port Nicholson in line of battle, anchoring off the town of Wellington between half-past five and six o'clock, where we found the " Challenger " and " Rosario.'* Immediately after anchoring, Mr. Fox (Premier), Mr. Grisborne (Colonial Secretary), Colonel Readrr, Mr. A. M. Smith, A.D.C. to His Excellency, Sir George Bowen, etc., went on board the " Liverpool," to welcome the Admiral to the new capital of New Zealand ; as the seat of government is now at Wel- lington, and as soon as the Government House is furnished it will also become the place of residence of the Governor, and the probable place of call of the future Australia-American Ocean line of steamers, which will raise it in commercial pro- sperity, notwithstanding the violence of the elements. We found, as soon as we arrived, that we had been anxiously expected the day before, as the squadron had been telegraphed at 9 a.m., from the Kaikoura's, going up with a strong wind, which caused the plea- M "! I tBBmPKammofm 184 PLYING SQUADRON. sure steamers to advertise tlio immense attractions of six noble ships under full sail in the offing and the peculiar advantages of these individual vessels for purposes of sight-seeing, seducing a crowd of the unwary, old women, and children, on to the boiling waters of Cook's Straits, for the purpose of replenish- ing tlio owners' pockets, and emptying a sometliing else of their passengers, finally dooming the to disappointment and a day of no ordinary murtal agony. In consequence of the very curtailed stay of the squadron, the ball given by Wellington was obUged to take place on the evening of arrival; so, shortly after nine o'clock, the House of Representatives, wliich had been fitted up for the occasion, became a scene of unusual brilliancy, and the theatre of fierce intrigue and contention, the first thing to strike a stranger's eye being the novelty of seeing a New Zealand fair one whiling away the leisure hour, flirting with a half- civilized Maori Chief, who had come in large numbers to do honours to the British guests ; and as the supper had more attractions for them than the ball-room, they soon vacated their 'vantage ground in female favour — temporarily only — to their flying and soon depart- ing rivals, and where rivalry was at its height, and the merry wives were doing all they knew — and that Tlri,»,,-.,ut,F*>^ ftjfc«, '....- ■ . -^. , _. , ■ ^ttuuii^iuf A-l "f.^. l,,n.l,^ . GROUP OF FERNS, NEW FOREST. § ( 11 sm h - PORT NICHOLSON, WELLINGTON, N.Z. 185 embraces no small knowledge — to lure their sailor guests, the occasional glance of passing triumph told too well how the poisoned arrow had struck home ; and without wishing to be cynical, we should hke to trans- plant Mr. Stuart Mill, and show him the effect of what is, we think erroneously, called Women's Rights, and what many New Zealand ip./iies pride themselves on, the independence of their women. We are inclined to think that the now most violent supporter of the scheme would inwardly pray that the British Isles might be preserved from such a scourge. After a sumptuous supper and a very eulogistic speech from Mr. Gisborne (the Chairman), the dancing went on untn well into the next day. Tuesday, January 25th.— The "Barrosa." arrived from Melbourne, with her stragglers, at half-past one in the middle watch, and in the afternoon the Governor, through his Aide-de-Camp, gave a picnic in his pri- vate cottage at Laurie Bay, at which the wives, etc., Admiral, Commodore, and a few chosen Captains were the honoured guests ; and at the same time a regatta was going on between the boats of the squadron under sail, which was won by the Admiral's barge, the " Scylla's" cutter being second, for a silver cup, given by Mr. W. B. Rhodes, J.P., one of the oldest of the New Zealand settlers; having arrived in the colony in 1840; z 18G FLYING SQUADRON. ■ 1 4 i: ti the wind, as usual, blowing half a gale ; and in the evening Mr, Justice Johnstone entertained the Admiral, Captains, etc., at dinner. Wednesday, February 26th, was the day of the picnic given by Welhngton to the squadron on Mr. Laing's grounds at the Hutt, nine miles from town; and as the day was lovely as a New Zealand summer's day knows so well how to be, all that was young and fair, old and coloured, congregated together to enjoy themselves, and show hospitaUty to the arrivals from the old country. A cricket match between Welhngton and the Squadron was going on at the same time on the ground, in which the squadron were victorious, with seven wickets to spare, owing to the play of Messrs. Pearson and Wright. A large and sumptuous lunch was provided in a marquee-tent, and Aunt Sally, croquet, flirting, and other enjoyments of the same kind caused the time to pass pleasantly; though at one time a social squall blackened the horizon, and threatened to frustrate the hospitaUty of Wellington, owing to the phrenological bump of egotism being more than ordinarily developed, with a distinguished offic on the ground ; but owing to a woman's influ- ence, it passed off, and the -sun shone once more on all, bright and gay. After lunch, Mr. Fox proposed three cheers for the Admiral, which was cordially responded ---. ^ *«U* « PORT NICHOLSON, WELLINGTON, N.Z. 1.87 to ; wlio, in return, proposed three for the ladies, which was enthusiastically received ; after which a general adjournment for outside amusements again took place, where a vigorous canvass was taking place, on the part of two rival dances, which were to take place in the evening; and considering that the leading can- vassers on the respective sides were of the female sex, the dispute was fairly compromised ; and as the very fashionable custom of going to several similar enter- tainments in the course of the night is not yet in vogue in New Zealand to the same extent as else- where, we must leave to WeUington and individual fancy to decide where the beauty was ; merely remark- ing that the wives, and the Wellington belle, wliose father has since so ably and patriotically represented his adopted country's cause, patronized one ; and as the squadron, as usual, were to take their departure at day- Hght, 4 a.m. discovered a meeting of the supporters of the rival houses at the Club, where, as our Transat- lantic brother phrases it, we guess they confederated, and where all feelings of an antagonistic nature merged into one of common regret to think the two short days allowed in the New Zealand capital were nearly over, and that the minutes almost, wero numbered, before we should be again baffling with the turbulent waters which divide the New Zealand ( «- 188 FLYIN(i SyUADUON. Islands, and after a parting glass to tlie next meeting, the early outward-bounders wended their weary way towards the pier, with only half a leg to stand on a-piece, owing to forty-eight hours' unceasing use of those limbs for purposes of dancing by night, boating, cricket, picnics, etc., by day; in fact, the captain of the Flying Eleven, weary with his great cricketing exertions during the day, and heartsore with his exertions during the night, was discovered, at 4.15 a.m. precisely, in the centre of WelHngton Road, seated disconsolately on his cricket bag, expressing, we regret to say it, a fixed determination of desertion, the at- tractions of the oppof^tion dance becoming painfully apparent, and we have since heard they were many and gi'eat ; but we rejoice to say that, after consider- able argument, the alien was induced to return to the path of duty, for wliich charitable act of disinterested affection, we regret to say, he has not shown sufficient gratitude to his salvators ; so, after having spent the liberal allowance of two days and twelve hours in the harbour of the New Zealand capital, which caused great dissatisfaction with the good people of Wel- lington, as they had gone to a large expense for the entertainment of the squadron, which they had every reason to suppose would remain the original ten days allowed, their reasons were undoubtedly just. Never- AUCKLAND, N.Z. 189 theless, 6 a.m. of Thursday, January 27tli, found the squadron steaming out of Port Nicholson, and directly on getting outside, made sail, single reefs and top- gallants, to a fiery N.W. wind, which shortly after- wards succeeded in blowing the inside out of " Phoebe's " foretopsail, leaving roping only, which is more adapted to the squalls which frequent Cook's Straits, and immediately on getting outside the Straits and rounding Cape Palhser, the wind fell to hght foul airs, which continued light and variable until the morning of the 2nd, when a fresh breeze springing up from the eastward, at 7 a.m. observed Cuvier Island ahead, and running before fresh easterly breezes, ten and eleven knots, passed between it and Great Barrier Island, taking in a reef and stunsails, on hauling up the Rangitoto Channel, shortened and furled sails on getting inside, and drifted up to the anchorage before the wind, escorted by many steamers fiiU of holiday seekers, as, it being the regatta day, all Auckland was afloat, and the town and shipping looking its best, dressed out in its grandest bunting. By four o'clock the squadron were all anchored, and for the description and feeling of the country towards the squadron, we quote the Auckland Southern Cross : — 190 FLYING SQUADllON. im, ' " ARRIVAL OP THE FLYING SQUADRON. " The Flying Squadron arrived in the harbour *' shortly before three o'clock j'^esterday. Simple ** as these words are, they are full of peculiar signi- " ficance to us, and open to a train of interesting " reflections. Looking back to the past, we find that " It was in the year 1840 that the British sloop-of- *' war, ' Herald,' anchored in this harbour, having " on board Captain Hobson, the founder of British *' authority in New Zealand, and the first Governor *' of the colony. At that time the site on which " Auckland now stands was a mere waste of fern *' and tea tree, the only habitations were the low " squalid wharves of the native owners ; the only *' craft that disturbed the surface of the Waitemata " was the canoe of the Maori, or the whale-boat of *' the pioneer settler. The place, which is now busy '* with the incessant hum and industry of a large *' European population, was inhabited only by a " sparse Maori population, subsisting precariously, " and living in the midst of internecine feuds with " neighbouring tribes. Where are now green fields, " and orchards, and well-kept gardens ? there was a " wild waste of fern and moorland, broken only here *• and there by patches of rude native cultivation. AlICKLANI), N.Z. 191 " The tall spire of many a place of worship rears •' itself heavenward, where once cannibal orgies and " scenes of strife and bloodshed were daily occur- " rences. Truly a happy change has come over the " place in the course of the thirty years that have " passed since our first Governor, with a rare fore- *' sight, fixed upon it as the future capital of the *' colony. Yesterday, six British ships of war cast " anchor in our harbour, amidst a scene which could " not fail to be gratifying to a sailor. It was one " of our gala days, the celebration of our anniversary. " Whoever it is that first fixed upon a regatta as " the mode of celebrating that anniversary must *• have been a man with singularly proper ideas of •' what was graceful and appropriate. There is no " day in the whole year in which Auckland can be *' viewed under more favourable aspects. When the " long wharf is half hidden in a forest of spars, *' when bunting of every hue floats gaily from " masthead and housetop, when the harbour is dotted '• over with the white sails of our numerous coasting " fleet, and when the hills and headlands which " command a view of the scene are crowded with " holiday seekers, Auckland appears to be dressed " in her natural garb ; and such a scene was that *' of yesterday. Though the number of craft which 192 PLYING SQUADRON. " was collected in our waters was far less numerous " than on many previous anniversary days, it was " still sufficient to convev to the mind of the new " comer a fair notion of the large coasting trade " of which Auckland is the centre and depot. Much " as we may be inclined to regret that the squadron " did not arrive earlier in the day, so as to have had " an opportunity of witnessing the regatta, it is some *' consolation to reflect that it did not arrive too late *' altogether. Here was a comparatively important " section of the British Navy — that Navy which still " holds the supremacy of the seas — coming 18,000 " miles to visit England's most distant dependency, " coming from a land pre-eminent amongst the nations " of the world for its maritime enterprise and power "to a comparatively insignificant portion of that *' Great Empire on which the sun never sets, yet it " found a people speaking the Anglo-Saxon race, " having the same customs, enjoying the same free " institutions and privileges, und engaged in laying " a maritime greatness which, at no ygyj distant day, " may be equal to that of the Mother Country itself. *' Coming upon us somewhat unexpectedly, it sur- " prised us, as it were, in the midst of that pastime " which is so peculiarly the natural one of our race. *' The cruise of the squadron, if it will serve to AUOKTiANP, N.Z. 103 remind the people of the colonies that England's Navy is still powerful, and that England's protecting shield is still over them, will not be without its advantages as to the fleet itself. Besides the lessons the crews will learn in practical seamanship and geographical knowledge, they will acquire a more adequate notion of the magnitude of that great Empire whose defenders they are, than ever could be obtained from the most extensive reading or the most assiduous study of charts. They will, when their long cruise is over, have seen much to increase that national pride which every Englishman ought to feel. They will have seen the many ramifications of the Anglo-Saxon race, its peculiar adaptability to every climate and circumstance, many evidences of its indomitable energy and fertile ingenuity, and of the wonderful facility which it possesses of grafting its free institutions, its religious truths, its arts and sciences, — in short, its advanced civiHzation and enlightenment upon foreign soil. " The arrival of the squadron yesterday took a good many people by surprise. It was between one and two o'clock that a string of bunting was run up "^• the flagstaff on the North Head. People who have contrived to master the new signals announced that the flags meant the arrival of five ships ; and it ' A A 104 FLYING SQUAUliOX. + J^- *' was naturally concluded, therefore, that the Flying *' Squadron had come. After the lapse of a few ** minutes, a scene of unusual excitement could be '* discerned on the FlagstaflP-hill. By the aid of a '* glass, the signalmen could be seen mustered on the " hill-top, as though watching some sight of more than " wonted interest outside. Under ordinary circum- " stances, the mere announcement that the Flying " Squadron was in sight would have been sufficient to *' have thrown the whole city into a flutter of excite- " ment; but now, for the time being, the regatta was *' the all-engrossing object of interest. Indeed, so " heartily do the good citizens enjoy this annual " hohday, that, if the whole British Navy were sighted, " it would scarcely reduce the interest in the several *' events of the day. Therefore, people had almost ** forgotten the signals at the flagstaff, when the " large hull of the first vessel glided round the " North Head into full view at about a quarter to three " o'clock. This was the " Scylla," and she was fol- *' lowed five minutes later by the " Liverpool," bearing " the flag of Rear-Admiral Hornby. No sooner were ** these two ships espied by the crowd assembled on the " Queen-street Wharf than a finging cheer was sent " forth, and the steamers which had been in readi- " ness during the day were rushed to by persons AUCKLAND, N.Z. 195 The eager to obtain a nearer look at the fleet. ' Favourite ' and the ' Royal Alfred ' were the first to put off, with their decks crowded with pas- sengers, followed by the ' Enterprise,' Nos. 1 and 2, the * Luna,' the ' Duke of Edinburgh,' and the ' Samson.' By this time the third vessel, the ' Endymion,' had come round the North Head, fol- lowed at about two minutes to three by the ' Phoebe,' at three o'clock by the ' Barrosa,* and five minutes later by the ' Liffey,' the sixth ship of the squadron. The ' Liverpool,' while shortening sail, was passed by the ' Scylla,' which in turn shortened sail to allow the flagship to assume her former position. As the vessels came up, they were partially obscured by the smoke of the steamers, but these luiving proceeded round the fleet, the ships came fidly into view. The. sight was one long to be remembered. Six magnificent ships of war are at any time a sight worth seeing, but it was such a sight as had never before been seen in Auckland, and such as may not be witnessed again for many years to come. The vessels came gliding majestically up the harbour in two lines, the formidable-looking hulls, with their long tiers of guns and the tall taut rigging, becoming more and more distinct. The beautiful symmetry of the men-of-war was only M^ 196 FLYING SQUADRON. " equalled by the excellent order in which they " drifted up to the anchorage ground, which they " reached at about twenty minutes past three, in the " following order : — * Endymion,' ' Liverpool,' and " * Scylla * in hne on the south side, and the ' Phoebe,' ** * Barrosa,* and ' Liffey ' on the north. The anchor- " ing of the ships was accomplished most expedi- " tiously, and in a surprisingly short space of time " all sail was stowed, and the ships presented that taut " and trim appearance so peculiar to British men-of- " war. Anon preparations were made for a salute " from the regatta flagship, and in a very few minutes ** the two guns on the forecastle were manned. A " salute of thirteen guns was fired iu excellent time, ** under the superintender.os of Mr. John Copland, " the first gun being fired uV 3.30 p.m. The salute " itself was appropriatelr followed by three hearty •' cheers from the people on board the ' City of Auck- *' 'land,' which were cordially taken up by the crowd " on shore, the band meanwhile playing ' Rule, •* • Britannia.' Meanwhile the * Liverpool ' had saluted " the port in the usual way. A few minutes later, " Captain Young, A.D.C. to the Governor, put off " from the ' City of Auckland,^ to convey His Excel- ** lency's welcome to the Admiral, and almost simul- ** taneously, Captain Pitt proceeded on board the ■ ^r^^f" .J I 1 1 - ■'j| 1 1 1 M H ■ 1 •f im AUCKLAND, N.Z. 197 ' Liverpool ' from the shore. The fleet were not long anchorei ere the harbour was do*^^ted over with man-of-war boats engaged in communicating with the different ships. The steamers also kept plying to and fro with passengers until a late hour in the afternoon. At about half-past four, the Naval Artil- lery Volunteers fired a salute of eleven guns in ten- second time. The salute was in every way creditable to our local gimners, who for some weeks past have been regular in their attendance at drills, in order to be prepared to take over Fort Britomart. The ofl&cers present yesterday were Captain Guilding (in command), Lieutenant Featon, Lieutenant Le Roy, Paymaster Hampton, and all the petty officers, " Shortly uffcer the fleet had anchored, Captain Pitt left the Liverpool,' and proceeded on board the ' City of Auckla,nd.' About the same time, Admiral Hornby and his Flag-lieutenant, J. Bruce, went ashore to Government House, whither also His Excellency the Governor, proceeded at about four o'clock. The ships of the squadron wiU be open to visitors every day while in harboui', from 10 o'clock a.m. to 4 p.m." And at half-past four the Admiral landed, and, accompanied by Colonel Elliot, 18th Regiment, com- manding the troops, and Captain Pitt, A.D.C. to His 108 FLYING SQUADRON. si Excellency, walked up to Grovernment HouFie to paj his respects to the Governor, Sir George F. fUowen, G.C.M.G. Wo found Lord Pembroke and Dr. Kingsley laying there in his yacht, "Albatross," having returned from a cruise among the Pacific „ Islands. Thursday, February 4th.— The "City of Mel"^ •' bourne " s.s. arrived in the morning, bringing Dr. Cowie, the new Bishop of Auckland, as successor to Dr. Selwyn ; also a long-tried experiment in the colony, the first rooks, we beheve, that arrived alive, as well as the telegraphic news from King George's Sound, of the death of Sir Sidney Dacres, which caused a profound feeling of regret throughout the squadron, but which was, happily, afterwards proved to be incorrect. Every four-legged Liiimal available in the town was employed to carry various members of the Flying Squadron to Kauri Forest, being a place of great resort, as well as the top of Mount Eden, one of the most perfect craters itself, and from the summit of which you count some almost incredible number, as well as having a magnificent view bounded by the Manakau Bar, on the West Coast, where the ill-fated " Orpheus " was loRt, and on the East Coast, looking dorn on the hiibour of Auckland, with the Rangitoto aid the Barrier Islands in the background. Ji AUCKLAND, N.Z. 199 In tlie eveniag His Excellency entertained tlie Ministers and Heads of Departments, large numbers of the squadron officers taking advantage of the hospitalities of the Union Club ; and the next even- ing, Friday, was the ball given by the Governor and LadyBowen to the officers of the squadron, in the roon built by the New Zealand Government for the reception of the Duke of Edinburgh, and where, for the first time, we had the pleasure of seeing the Mid- shipman's waterproof idol, in the zenith of her glory, surrounded by a bevy of adorers, surrendered at discretion, as well as the premihre valseuse in the room, with half-Maori blood in her veins. The ball broke up about half-past two, and the next day, Saturday, February 6th, a good many officers went to see the Thames Gold Fields ; and in the afternoon Lady Bowen gave a garden party at Government House, where we had the benefit of seeing all that was fair in Auckland and the surrounding country, as well as many that had come up from the Waikato on account of the war, the band of the 18th playing during the afternoon, and in the evening His Excel- lency entertained a large party at dinner. Monday, February Sth. — His Excellency the Gover- nor, Lady Bowen, and Stafi*, embarked from the Wynward Pier at 1 p.m. to pay his official visit to I 200 FLYING SQUADRON, ■U ' the Admiral on board the flagship, where he was Teceived by the squadron with all the honours. The Admiral etitertained the vice-regal party, ministers, etc., at k ; n, after which dancing began, and continued witii .uch vigour, Britishers and half-castes vieing with each other for Terpsichorean supremacy, with one brilliant exception, to the indisputable 'van- tage of the former. In the evening, the Secret Society of Masons entertained their brethren belong- ing to the squadron at a ball. Tuesday, February 9th, was looked on as the last day in the land of civilization for many months, Japan being aeen through the medium only of many thou- sands of miles of unknown sea, with Vancouver's Island afterwards, between four and five months of recruit- ment, before running the gauntlet of Hawaiian charms. The cricket - match between Auckland and the squadron took place, to our very indifferent success. " CRICKET. *' AUCKLAND V. FLYING SQUADRON. ** The match between the two elevens of Auckland " and the Flying Squadron came off yesterday on AUCKLAND, N.Z. 201 the ground at the Albert Barracks. During the early part of the day there were not many present, but during the evening, as the various places of business boj^-an to close, there was a fair muster. Owing to some misunderstanding, there was no band present on the ground, as had been announced. The playing throughout was good — the fielding especially so. At the same time, we must not omit to chronicle the fact that although the bowling was splendid, the batting was not quite up to the mark. There was a stiff breeze blowing, but it interfered in no material way with the bowling. " During the evening, several games were intro- duced, such as running in sacks, etc., and both juveniles and adults appeared to enjoy the fun greatly. At about five o'clock his Excellency the G-overnor, Lady Bowen and suite, together with Admiral Hornby and several distinguished visitors, came on the ground, and were spectators for some time. " A break was made in the first innings, and the players and some friends proceeded to a lunch, which had been hospitably provided by W. L. Rees, Esq. D B :\ ^}i. 202 FLYING SQUADRON. " The following is the score : — " FLYING SQUADRON.— First Innings. Eickmond , b Pocock Taylor, b Bowen ,. Prothero, b Bowen Baring, b Bowen Pearse, c Cotton, b Bowen Wright, b Pocock May, b Pocock Warren, c Kelcher, b Pocock Bampton, c Pocock, b Bowen Sparks, not out Henderson, c jL».elcher, b Bowen . . . Byes, 12 ; leg byes, 3 ; wides, 2 Total 6 8 9 2 I 2 2 7 17 54 Second Innings. Taylor, c Cotton, b Rees ... 6 Baring, c Pocock, b Bees 10 Prothero, st McGan, b Eees ... . ... 4 Sparks, b Bowen ... 5 Pearse, run out 1 Wright, b Pocock 36 Richmond, o Kelcher, b Pocock 5 May, b Pocock 7 Bampton, c Daubeny, b Reea 1 Warren, not out 6 Henderson, st McGan j 6 Byes, 8 ; wides, 1 ; leg byes, 1 ... 10 - Total 96 Grand total 149 . AUCKLAND, N.Z. " AUCKLAND. Me Gan, b Sparks .. Pocook, sen., b Taylor .. 30 Mumford, c Wright, b Sparks .. Bowen, b Taylor .. 29 Pocock, jun., b Taylor .. 1 Eees, notout .. 61 Daubeny, c Bichmond, b Bampton .. Kelcher, c Sparks .. 15 Phillips, c Wright, b Eichmond .. 14 Dawson, b Wright ... 1 Cotton, b Taylor .• .. 32 Byes, 12 ; leg byes, 2 ; wides, 2 .. 16 203 Total 199 In the evening the citizens of Auckland gave a ball at the Town Hall in honour of the squadron, which will be long lemembered, perhaps, by some of the Auckland fair, when other squadron memories shall havo passed away — if we may be allowed to judge by the transitory revelations of a lunar ray — and we havo reason to believe that the impression made by one of the " Barrosa" will be retained by the widowed noir et rouge for a considerable time after face and form have been driven from memory, to make way for another equally favoured. And whilst revelry was going on inside, those out might have a few dropping shots, accompanied by the shai'p crack of the Schneider, ill 204 FLYING SQUADRON. which betold of eleven men of the " Phoebe," at half- past nine at night, taking their own cutter, and, unlike Little Billy, going ashore, being used as a target during the passage^ though without result, as they shortly landed, and started for the interior, where we wish them all prosperity. By 5 ajn. the last of the dancers had disappeared, all making for their respective homes, and the squadron leaving terra Jirma, certainly for months, and perhaps for ever, if we may except a coral reef, as the way was long and principally unknown, and which was not, was known to be full of coral reefs and other pitfalls, eminently dangerous to mariners; also being centre month of the three hurricane ones of the year, through the heart of whose head-quarters we had to pass, which caused the following order to be issued for the furtherance of the preservation of life and property : — " Liverpool. At Auckland, " 4th February, 1870. " General Memo. No. 27. "On the passage from New Zealand to Japan, and " whilst between the latitude of 25" S. and the Line, " the following precautions are to be taken : — " 1. The lead is to be kept constantly going. AUCKLAND, N.Z. 206 " 2. The ships are to be carefully kept in the track " of their leaders. "3. At night the lower studdingsails are not to be " set, except to follow the Admiral's motions, and when *• so set, hands are to be kept by tack, and halliards '* ready to take it in smartly, in case of having to " brace up. " 4. The watch is to be frequently mustered at " their stations for taking in a lower stunsail and " bracing up. " 5. In case of soundings being struck unexpectedly, " or an indication of shoal water being seen, the ships " are to be brought to the wind immediately, the after- " yards being braced up and the driver hauled out smartly ; officers of watches are to be warned that if they only ease away the weather head braces, and studsail tacks roundly, the yards will generally fly " forward of themselves, but that it is better to bring " the ships to with their head-yards square rather " than lose room by not setting the after-sails. "6. They are also to be warned that the safest way *' to recede from an unknown shoal is by standing out " as nearly as possible on the line by which they have " come in. Therefore, when running with the wind " on the quarter, it will frequently be safer to put the " helms up and wear, rather than down, unless (( (( {( )) ft ■*i> - i A i A [ 206 PLYING SlilJADKON. ** breakers are seen right ahead. In that case, the '• helm should always be put down, to give a chance " of tacking or anchoring. " 7. If not wore, the ships are to be tacked as soon ** as possible, to enable them to get as much as pos- " sible a\7ay from the danger. "8. If a leader alters course suddenly, each foUow- •* ing ship is to do the same immediately, and not to " keep in her wake. "9. The movements of leaders are to be closely " watched. " 10. In the day time the masthead look-outs are to " be warned to keep a good look-out for discoloured " water. "11. At night in the parts where the islands and " reefs are most dangerous, the ships will probably be " kept in one Kne, and station is to be strictly pre- " served. "12. Signal-guns are to be kept ready, and fired " directly any danger is discovered. "13. The first rendezvous after leaving New Zea- " land will be seven miles west from Ocean Islands for " forty-eight hours ; then proceed to the second ren- " dezvous, ten miles south west of Assumption Island " for twenty-four hours. Then proceed to Yokohama, " in the Gulf of Yeddo. NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. 207 " Should the time named for remaining on the ren- " dezvous expire shortly before sunrise or sunset, ships " should remain on the rendezvous until broad day- ** light or until after sunset. " (Signed) Gr. Phipps Hoenby, " Rear- Admiral Commanding. (( To the Respective Captains of Her Majesty's Ships and Vessels under my command." NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. Wednesday, Feb. 9th. — The squadron weighed from Auckland, blowing fresh from the North-Eastward, right up the harbour, whicb necessitated a dead beat out, "Liffey" being first aweigh at 1 p.m., and suc- cessfully getting outside the harbour, dropj . t i man overboard in the narrowest part of the channel between Rangitoto and the mainland, but fortunately lowering a boat safely, he was picked up, though the ship was unable to heave-to, until she was outside, clear of danger ; " Scylla " following next, at 2 p.m., beat out safely, and the " Liverpool," getting under weigh at the same time, tripped her anchor, and driving rapidly astern into shoal water, had to let go 208 FLYING SCiUADHOX. the other one to avoid mishap, and the sailing experi- ment having failed, steam was ordered to be got up by the remaining four, and at 4 p.m., weighed, and found it blowing fresh outside from the North-East- ward. Passed Lord Pembroke in his yacht baffling with adverse circumstances in the Rangitoto Channel, and evidently not liking the appearance of things, wisely put his helm up, and ran back for the shelter of Auckland. At 6 p.m. the signal was made to ren- dezvous about 40 miles off, in lat. 35° 45' S., long. 175° 30' E., and then to Chase Rendezvous, so away went the squadron struggling violently for pride of place, which we believe " Liffey " gained, although it was also claimed by " Scylla," the whole congregating, with the exception of the latter, at the appointed place of meeting by the forenoon of Friday, after a dead beat up against North-Easterly breezes and thick weather ; the " Scylla " putting in an appear- ance during the afternoon, was remonstrated with for delaying the proceedings of the Flying Squr.dron, after which the signal was made to "Liffey ' end *' Scylla ": — " The way you beat out of Auckland very creditable to Captain and Master." Then the squadron proceeded on its -way close hauled, with a moderate breeze from N.N.W., cloudy weather, and a good deal of rain, which shifted on the 13th to the ^M.> NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. 209 S.W., bringing clear weather with it, and on the afternoon of the 15th passed close to the west- ward of the Esperance Rock, one of the Kermadeo group, and the following day the wind going round by South to North East, sighting Sunday Island on the 17th, remained light, tedious, and variable until the 21st in ht. 26" 30' S., long. 183° 16' E., when light North-Easterly wii' s sprang up, which lasted until the 25th. At midnight of which day* the barometer showed 29.92 ; 4 a.m., 29.80; 8 a.m., 29.92; noon, 29.95. The weather during the forenoon was very threatening, with a heavy swell, just such an appearance that we were given to understand as attending the advent of hur- ricanes in that part of the world. At 4 p.m. the weather was again fine, with barometer up to 30.02, the shift of wind being gradual from. S.W. to "W.S.W., W.N.W., N.W., where it gradually fell to the force 2, on the other points, since midnight, the forces being 5, 6, 7, 6, 4 respectively, by which circumstances it appeared that if we were on the outskirts of a rotary storm, our position at noon on the 26th being lat. 17° 16' S., long. 183° 28' E., the vortex when the storm was first felt must have borne from us S.E., and at * We are indebted to Captain Bythesea for the following remarks. CO 210 PLYING SQUADRON. I 4 p.m. S.W., on its way to the westward, by wliicli supposition it is also probable that it passed over the Yavau Group and Friendly Islands on its way to the Fijis. On the 27th, lat. 16° S., the " Phoebe " dropped a man overboard, who was saved by Lieutenant R. Henderson and 21y. Beresford, midshipman, jumping after him. Afterwards, a Light breeze sprang up from E.S.E., which was truly welcome, as the heat was intense, the thermometer standing at 85" between decks. The breeze lasting two days was the only sign of S.B. Trade wc experienced, and which left us again in 12° 30' S. X 180°. 28th. Passed in sight and to the westward of Horn Island, and from the 2nd of March in 12° S., 170° E., until the 8th, in 8° S., 176" E., we experienced a succession of light ind variable winds, with the Tv^eather very hot, damp, and depressing, the air between (\eoks being over 80°, .and the water 84®, in the afternoon of which day, it fallinp- a dead calm, without any appearance of wind, either in past or future, we began to think We were the first that ever burst upou that silent sea, All in a hot and copper sky, The Hoody sun at noon ; Right up above tha mast did stand, No bigger than the moon. So steam was got up by '* Liverpool," " Endyraion " and "Liffey" towing ''^arrosa," *' Scylla," and NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. 211 *' Plicebe," and with assistance of science, we wended our way througli a sea of glass until tlie morning of the 10th, in lat. 5° 30 S., long. 173° E., when sail was made to the North-Easterly Trade, and at 8 a.m. of the 11th entered a strong belt of the Westerly Equatorial Current, the temperature of the sea decreasing, the breeze freshening a Httle ; at 9 a.m. on the morning of the 12th, cast off the ships in tow, and proceeded under sail, with a light N.E. wind a-beam, two and a-hah' knots current to the westward. Nine a.m. of the loth, in 3° N. lat., 166° E. long., passed through a violent current-ripple, the temperature of the sea rising from 79x° to 801° ; and in the forenoon of the follow- ing day passed close to the eastward of Ualan Island, eager eyes being turned to the Promised Land, as supplies were running short, and we were told that the island Was flowing with milk and honey ; but it was of no avail. Tliongh the good thin^^ s of life were near and plentiful, forward was c^tul t; a motto, and we carried the North-East Trade until the 24th, in lat. 19° N., long. 145° E., passing the day before, close to the •WBstward of the Island of Ascunsion, one of the north- ernmost of the Ladrone Group, consisting only of an extinct volcano rising abruptly from the sea, almost perpaiidicularly, to the north w.ard and eastward, where the wind and sea, in collusion together, bad had the ii ■■I ■ ! i if) f ■: ■ 'i FLYING SQUADRON. effect, the one of blowing the lava in its active days to the southern side caused that to be a gertle slope, and the other everlastingly warring against the north- eastern shore, had worn it away until the crater almost overhung its base. The following day the breeze went round to the E.S.E., and on the 20th became unsteady, the following day being calm, after which the easterly wind sprang up again, wdth very damp weather and a dense mist round the horizon, until April 3rd, in 29" N., 136° E., when it began to veei', and the next day was south-westerly, with a cloudy Bkj and drizzle, turning into heavy rain, the wind shifting suddenly to jST.W. on the evening of the 5tli, blowing a moderate gale. At 2 a.m. on the 6th sighted Kosu Sima (an island outside Yeddo Bay), and then hauled up for the entrance, the wind remaining strong, squally, and variable from W.S.W. to N.W., until passing Yries Islpud (an active volcano then in' process of getting up steam), and getting inside the bay, when we ran out of it altogether, the squadron passed slowly up with light catspaws of air, leaving an active volcano behind, and having the extinct one of Fusyama, the Japanese God of Mountains, on the left, 13,000 feet high, snow-topped, rose-crowned, looking fair and soft against the evening sky, and with tlie light catspaws w0 managed to gel along until nearly sunset, when they YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 213 departed, and at a quarter-past six went ahead under steam, anchoring off Yokohama at 7.30 p.m., and it may be related, as a remarkable fact, that, although, when the anchors were let go, the night was black as pitch, that the next morning found the squadron in better line than they had ever been before or since, which was the more fortunate, as the American Admiral (Rohan) was laying there, and who expressed his extreme approbation and surprise ; and so ended the longest (66 days) and by far the most tedious of all the tedious passages of the squadron, chiefly so on account of the scarcity of w^" d nnd the abundance of heat, having passed over 3,0imi uili ^ of hititude, with the thermometer over 80° between decX . Thursday, April 7th. — Discovered, at (daylight, he United States man-of-war, "Delaware" (fiag:sliip), ** Idaho'" and " Monacea " (transport), a Frer 'b and Dutch man-of-war, besides our own ship " Pearl," who was to become a flyer in the place of " Barrosa, " to bo left on the China station, and also found a iarge fleet of merchantmen at anchor, the greater portion of which were steamers — a sure indication, of the in- creasing exportation from Japan, as also of the rising commercial prosperity of Yokohama, owing, in a great measure, to its central position in the probable great future trade between China and the States of America. 1 4i I M ■.,1!:' ':\' IP 214 FLYING SQUADRON. In the afternoon tlie " Liverpool " saluted the Japanese flag, having been compelled to wait, in order to borrow one — a Liberal Administration declining to supply the white flag with a red ball, the salute being returned ." from the fort. As soon as it was possible, in compHance with the exigencies of the service, a large number of ofl&cers took the opportunity, as Yeddo was then open to foreigners, of going up to see that far-famed city, where you put up, under the compulsion of indi- viduality, at an enormous structure surnamed hotel, capable of containing nearly tbree hundred people, and usually housing nearly three, which gave it a barn- like appearance not tending towards comfort, but which the enterprising proprietor endeavoured to rectify by providing counteracting luxuries, the advan- tage of wliicli the London hotels do not acknowledge, with the exception, we believe, of that large edifice named after a central terminus, and as now, in the year of progression, 1870, foreigners are not allowed to walk abi>nt the streets of Yeddo without a detach- ment of Yacanins in company, the members of which small force, not, we believe, exceeding forty, comprise a Government guard solely for the protection of foreigners, and consist principally of sons of Damios and two-sworded men, of a relative position with the YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 215 sons of our country squires, and as they usually walk one on each side, although at times a single individual is considered sufl&cient, it renders much peripatetic exercise terribly tedious, especially if you stop to inspect the contents of the shops, which are not nearly so good as those at Yokohama, you are immediately surrounded by a silent and gaping crowd, anyone of whom might easily detach your head, notwithstanding the custody of the Yacanins, who, we believe, in spite of the author of " Our New Way Bound the World's " eulogistic comments on them, though he admits inexperience, in consequence of the then expulsion of foreigners from the capital, are usually celebrated for the rapidity of their retreat, in case of emergency, and although the majority of British travellers in Japan, with the innate stubbornness of their race, decline . carrying weapons of defence, although the most earnest advocates of the Japanese cause, fully admit the danger of an occasional evil-disposed person, probably employed by a powerful Damio, whose gigantic territorial influence entirely shields the assassin, in the employ of a religious hater of foreign intervention; and as a Japanese is not allowed to draw his sword without shedding blood, we must entirely espouse the American custom in that country of always carrying a revolver, and if you, on meeting I )x . I if 216 FLYING SQUADRON. a man, see him handle his sword, shoot ^m im- mediately, for the preservation of your own life, +jiiere being no medium between yours and his; and as a one-s worded man carries his weapon on the left side, according to European custom, but always with tho bow of the sword reversed, so that, before drawing, he is obliged to turn the sheath round, and then, as he draws his sword, severs his victim's head with the same cut. They warn you always to pass a man on his sword side, on account of the reason that on that side the instantaneous decapitation is avoided by impracticable causes. And in case of your elevating yourself to the seat of a carriage, which of late years has found much favour in the country, Yacanins ride after you, instead of walking alongside, whereby they have the advantage, in case of attack, in being able to take to their ponies'- heels instead of their owa. And as so many, books have been written, and in consequence of the increasing simplicity of access to the country, will still be, any remarks of ours on the town of Yeddo would be super- fluous. We only say, that in our cursory visit, we found the streets narrow and dirty, and the great majority of the houses small in area and one-storied, which gives the town that enormous extent which has made it so famous in you'Mul minds, the school- b YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 217 geography question, of which is the largest town in the world (Yeddo), being ingrafted erroneously on the aspiring geographer's brain ; though the city itself is doubtless of vast extent, as you are able to walk twelve miles in a straight line without going outside the limits ; but even that is not so large as I^ondon with its suburbs, or Paris, if Prussian artillery has not razed the Queen of Cities, as we have just heard the news of the fate of the French Empire, in every detail of which downfall, the hand of Providence appears to be unmistakably imprinted. Monday April 11th. — The Admiral drovo to Yeddo, stopping at the Legation to lunch with Sir Harry Parkes, and then going on to the hotel, having in virtue of his high position a large escort of Yaca- nins, and accompanied by Mr. Siebold (interpreter to our Legation), drove to the Temple of Ausaxa, an m different Polytechnic, with a very indifferent imita- tion of Pepper's Ghost ; and then round the moats, which are considered the proper things to do, the latter bearing a strong resemblance to the artificial ditches of the same name that surround our garrison towns, but which in Yoddo surround the palace and grounds appertaining thereto, belonging to the Mikado, and which are about three miles round, out of the precincts of which the nominal Ruler of Japan is never D D M 218 FLYING SQUADRON. allowed, except on rare occasions, when ho is per- mitted to be conveyed in a box, religiously closed, with small jalousies on each side, to prevent suffocation, to his Summer Palace, about two miles from the other one, the streets during the Royal progress being cleared, and houses closed, in order to prevent plebeian eyes from defiling with their gaze the wooden framework which surrounds, in Japanese eyes, the scarcely earthly body that dates its ances- tral origin many thousands of years before our crea- tion, and for which it is placed on the throne of Japan, to be used as a puppet by the virtual rulers, who are the Court nobles, and the great princes of the Empire ; foremost amongst whom, in the south, is So/tsuma, perhaps the now most* powerful man in the Empire, who is well known as our adver- sary at Kagosima, then a sincere hater of foreign invasion, now an equally strong ally in favour of foreign intercession and liberal principles for Japan, he having sent a student in the squadron, who was on board the " Liverpool," and another one of the Princes of the North sending one also, who was housed on board the " Phoebe." These great nobles having many of them an dnnual income of between one and two millions, and the Tycoon's revenue, when he was virtual ruler of the country, being 'i YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 219 I tliree millions sterling annually, and there are still xiany of the country people who would like to see Stots Bashi (Shiogoon), or more commonly known in England as the Tycoon, still on the throne. In the evening there was a great per- formance of Japanese juggling at the hotel, to an extensive audience of the squadron, everybody we fancy preparing to see some extraordinary feats of almost supematuml skill ; but a certain elapsed time after the commencement, there was a strong suppo- sition amongst many, that it was only the inborn sleight-of-hand of the race, and that the enterprising proprietor was passinp* the hotel domestics through the noble art of jugglery, who would certainly have fled as from the Devil, if Wiljaba Frikell, or the Wizard of the North, had appeared - on the scene. The' next da^, Tuesday, was devoted by many to visiting the burial place of the Tycoons, where up to quite recently, the guarding priests have made you take your boots off on every possible occasion, which is inconvenient at least, as the stones are decidedly sharp in many places, but more recently perfidious dealings have triumphed, and the Anglo- Saxon bribery, so successful over the whole earth, has now revealed to booted barbarians even the interior of a Tycoon's tomb, and as Yeddo, 220 FLYING SQUADRON. unlike RosherviUe, is not a place to spend many- long and happy days, nobody sojourned longer in the metropolis of Japan than was possibly necessary to explore a certain portion of the town, and pJso fco have optical proof of the far-famed native dance ; and the Yeddo sojourn with some approached the rapidity with which our Western cousins do the sights of Europe, more especially the southern lakes of Ireland, where there is a constant stream of them who arrive in the evening, and leave again early next morning, perfectly satisfied in having done the Lakes of Kil- larney, and in the afternoon the Admiral and many officers returned to Yokohama, the Yacanin escort accompanying him some ten miles, as far as the Logo Ferry, and as on your way down, you were sitting behind a pair of fast-trotting Japanese ponies, you were somewhat astonished to find yourself passed by an almost naked barbarian going his route with a long, swinging stride, a pole over his shoulder, with a bag at the end, which constituted the Japanese postman, bound to go his ten to eleven miles an hour, and for the purpose of which high rate of speed to keep up for many miles, which they do, they are fired wiih the idea of strengthening their legs, which operation is performed by an article resembling a croquet mallet; a small brass or copper tube repre- YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 221 Renting the mallet, which is filled with cotton wool, soaked in saltpetre, then lit, and held with the flat part on the leg until the cotton wool has burned down to the skin. The effect we leave to the medical mind to determine, but believe it to be for the purpose of hardening the skin over the veins; and as it is the bounden duty of every Englishman visiting Yeddo, to stop at the place which was shown to us as Black- eyed Susan's tea-liouse — Susan being, we were told, the woman who carried Richardson into her house when he was murdered, gave him water to drink, and supported his dying head, in spite of the street outside being filled with men and women, frantic at the sight of foreign blood— the place was largely and religiously patronized by the squadron. Thursday, April 14th. — It having been arranged between the representative of Grreat Britain and the Admiral, that if the Mikado would receixe some of the ofl&cers of the squadron, the ships should be displayed off the town of Yeddo, we hope as much to the future benefit of our relations with Japan, as it was to the discomfort of the squadron, every one having rightly expected ten days at Yokohama, made their curio arrangements in accordance, whereas seven was the allotted portion after fifty-six days of ocean travelling ; so accordingly, at twelve o'clock, the squadron weighed i It M r ;»i, !^ "SiiXsXiX:. 222 FLYING SQUADRON. under steam for Yeddo, the " Liverpool " having the Italian Minister and Contesse Latour and Lady Parkes on board. Anchored off Yeddo at a little before half- past two, between four and five miles from the shore, or, as some facetious person remarked, " You could *• just see the top of the houses from the masthead." Friday was the day bespoken for the reception of the Admiral and captains of the squadron, so, shortly after a general rendezvous on board the " Liverpool," the procession of galleys, headed by the Admiral in his barge, all in royal clothes and soaking rain, shoved - off, and made for the land, which small difficulty vas experienced in making ; but unfortunately that was under the bottom, and as the water was exceedingly low, and the only chance of seeing His Majesty ap- peared to hinge at one time on the probability of his taking a cruise to a certain sandbank in his royal bay. However, after a good deal of perseverance, not much patience, but a good deal of swearing instead, and getting into the track of a welcome dhow, a safe landing was eflfected at the steps of the Summer Palace, with a pleasant walk up through the palace garden ; then, in a state much resembUng a somewhat damp ploughed field, which was decidedly derogatory to the polish of your best boots, which discomfort was much alleviated by the welcome knowledge that in a YEDDO, .'\l'AN. 2i>:J short time, it would be equally so to the palace mats (serve him right, was tho idea, for not keeping his paths clean), as, since a distinguished British naval officer refused to unboot himself at the palace door, the officials of the court have never attempted to enforce the custom. On arriving at the palace, where the officers were received by one of the chiefs of the Foreign De- partment, tea, pipes, cigars, sherry, etc., were abundantly provided, and an inspection made of the palace lately occupied by the Duke of Edin- burgh, which is built in European fashion, and papered in Japanese fashion, the various sports of the country being depicted on the walls, the most conspicuous of which, occupying one side of a room, is the dog chase, a favourite sport of Japan, and conducted in a ring, the centre of which a dog is held by probably a great functionary of the court, as it is a royal pastime, and at a given signal the small member of the canine tribe receives a kick from the courtly toe of his captor, and is immediately chased by the assembled courtiers and grear, nobles of the empire on horseback, with bows and arrows, while the unfor- tunate animal is spitted to the earth by a well-directed arrow, and we regret that the kaleidoscopic manners .of Japan prevent our saying with certainty as to 224 FLYTNO SQUADRON. wbetlier they turn another unfortunate animal out to undergo the pleasure of making a target of itself, or whether the decease of one is considered sufl&cient for the allayment of the ^porting propensities of the Japanese. At half-past twelve, the company having assembled, and the necessary preliminaries being gone through, the procession started,, in four carriages, headed by Sir Harry Parkes, the Admiral, Japanese Member of the Foreign Department, and Mr. Biebold, Interpreter to the Embassy, with the necessary cortege of twelve mounted Legation orderHes, two ahead, and one at each wheel, with their swords ax " the carry," prepared for a surprise, wiiich some of them had ex- perienced on more than one occasion, the members of this force consisting of ex-Lcmdon poHce, also a large escort of Yacanins before and. behind. In the streets through which the carriages had to pass, the trafl&c had previously been suspended by order, and the cross streets roped and guarded by a detachment of Japanese infantry, drawn up at the siae of the main thorough- fare, and we certainly cannot say that the expression depicted in the faces of the bystanders was one favom'able to foreignersi, as it appeared to be one more of astonislmaent, to thick that their capital should ever have been allowed to be invaded by the heathens : and the only audible expression by YEDD(). JAPAN. 225 tht> mvans of the Japanese language was, " There go " the barbarians ; " and tihe outside gate of the palace was safely reached, without obstruction of any sort, if we may except a display of prowess in one of the leading orderlies, in turning a corner at too rapid a pace to admit his charger retaining its perpendicular, and the immediate result of which was, man and horse strug- ghng out of the mud in a horizontal position ; but we are happy to say he speedily regained his position in the van, and the sun shining brightly after the April shower, enabled the gentleman to clean himself and horse before the reception was over ; and on arrival at the gate the carriages were obliged to be dispensed with, and the journey to the door of the palace-yard performed on foot over slightly rough stones, where the Minister and Vice-Minister of Foreign Affairs, in their robes of State, the former a colour near puce, and the latter a brilliant scarlet, were waiting to receive the expected guests, and conduct them to the ante-chamber, where tea, tobacco, and an enormous box of sweets were immediately provided for each, and the various members and nobles of Court introduced, while the Italian Minister was presenting his recall to His Majesty; immediately after the expiration of which, Sir Harry Parkes, Mr. Adams (Secretary of Legation), the officers of the squadron, and Mr. Lowder (Her i I i» 4j: E E 226 FLYING SQUAW Majesty's Consul at Yokohama,, were conducted by tlie Minister of State for Fo^^ign Affairs into the celestial presence of the Grresst Rder of Japan, the intervening space being filled with doubtless har- monious music from the private temd of the Mikado ; the manufacturing instrument, which produced the dulcet strains, as well as the airs themselves, being something, we should think, never seen or heard in the boundary of ci^dlized nations, and forcibly impressed on your minds what the princes and rulers who lived in the ages of Nebuchadnezzar, with a sensitr-e organization, must have suffered from the regal proclamation promulgated with the assistance of psaltery, sackbut, and dulcimer ; and on arriving at the edge of the daiK. in the centre and back- ground oi which was, nov exactly a box, nor exactly a canopy, but something- if it is not derogatory to majesty to say, more immediately resembling the top of that article in whiuh ?imch and Judy is displayed for the amusement of tbe young ; gorgeous in white and jmrple satin, closec on three sides and with the fruxit drawn about thr«e-quarters of the way up, under which sat the l^Iiurado, with face alone hidden, liie rest bemg clothed m white and scarlet satin. The addresBes were r-ead and interpreted, and His Majesty, through his lo^axpceter, expressed so much YEDDO, JAPAN. 227 reliance in the British faith as to intend to trust his Ministers on board the " Liverpool " the following day; but no movement came from inside the box, except when the replies were handed to the respon- sible Minister, and after the conclusion of the ceremony, and the retrogression movement was almost concluded, the monarch, who traces his pedigree seven thousand years, became struck with a sense of inquisition, and peered underneath the regu- lation screen at the retreating homagers, displaying for the instant the face of one hardly out of boy- hood's years, and then the band struck up a wailful sound, which would be inimitable on European in- struments, and which a chorus of ten thousand London cats could not attain in a lifetime's tuition. After the conclusion of the ceremony a general return was made to the Summer Palace, where a sumptuous luncheon was provided on Europeai) principles, and at which the Ministers of the Foreign Department presided, after which the Japanese students about to commence their maritime career were introduced to the Admiral; and shortly after five o'clock a hasty retreat was made, in conse- quetice of approaching darkness, and the many miles of turbulent water to be traversed before arriving witliin the precincts of the squadron. \ '■ml I P1|| ii 1 « il ifif ml i f ;•■■'( u ti 228 FliYINQ SQUADRON. Saturday boing the day on which the Admiral had arranged to receive the Japanese Ministers, unfortu- nately broke with far from a pleasing aspect, blowing very fresh, with strong squalls and decidedly unplea- sant sea, which appeared to get worse as the day wore on. However, Sir Harry Parises and Mr. 4dams weat on board the " Liverpool " in the forenoon, in order to be ready to receive them. Twelve o'clock, one ; two ; passed without any sign, and then they were given up, and the provisions were on the point of being dis- cussed in the Admiral's cabin, when a steamer was seen coming out with the Japanese flag flying ; and shortly afterwards, the Ministers and their retainers, to the number of somewhat about fifty, arrived on board the ** Liverpool " in their robes of State, and were received by Sir H&rry Parkes and the Admiral, etc., on the quarter- ieck, the foremost in rank being a member of the Supreme Council; of what exactly relative rank they hold with regard to Europeans, it is difficult to say, especially as the best informed of Japan are hardly aware of the extent of their power ; but as they have the making and unmaking of the Ministers, it is supposed that they follow almost imme- diately after royalty ) after whom oame the Ministers, etc., amongst whom was the Vice-Minister for Foreign Aft airs (Machida), who we had met the preceding day H . 1 YEDDO, JAPAN. 229 at the palace, and who was gifted with the most agree- able and pleasing manner that is possible to meet, and, after two years spent, in London and other of the large English towns, was well informed in the progress of the Western nations ; and the one sight that struck him more than anything else during his European tour, being Clapham Junction. Immediately after going on board, they sat down to luncheon in the Admiral's cabin, having previously disburdened themselves of their swords, which, as many were of great value and sacred fame, it was an agony of suspense, notwithstanding the vigil of a marine guard over them, for fear that the British midshipman, in his thirst after knowledge, might evade the watchful sentry, and display the naked weapon to his admiring colleagues, and then the result is known only to the Japanese; but we believe that blood must be spilt. But whether the drawer or the owner — as the laws of the Medes and . Persians in Japan are decidedly sin- gular — would be the victim, we happily had no oppor- tunity of discovering.^ One of the great Ministers of State was suffering most unpleasant qualms, the result of the voyage out, which interfered much with his enjoyment, while another of his col- leagues suffered, but in a different manner, as he suggested, through Mr. Siebold, patting at the same time a part of his body that shall be name- ) '3. m '!f I ^■u li'f m 230 FLYINfi SQUADRON. less, that he had a violent appetite, which, after a time, he appeared somewliat to satiate with the assistance of constant applications of champagne, which undoubtedly is their favourite drink, when they can get it. Great was the speculation amongst the majority as to what use the knife and fork were to be placed, and the novices in European customs carefully abstained from the commencement of their repast until they had taken a good survey of one of their own colleagues better versed in the barbarous use. Some few, however, whom the boisterousness of the passage off had probably given every reason for an immediate wish to satisfy the cravings of their appetite, made frantic dashes at mayonaise with firm grip of the prongs. And after the luncheon was finished, the scimitars were again taken to — an infinite relief to the assembled company — and then they were shown the ships at general quarters, a number of them ap- pearing to take a great interest in the working of the guns ; the workers of the guns also taking a great interest in one of their spectators, who was one of the props of the Empire, and clothed in gorgeous apparel of the finest texture, and a marvellously brilliant garment, looking Uke silk embroidery over cloth of goldj and the whole forming the coveH.ng of the chief of the secret police. After the inspection of the guns, they were immensely delighted at seeing YEDDO, JAPAN. 231 the boats of the squadron manoeuvring, manned and armed, firing rockets and blank cartridge, and a bril- liant attack made by the boats in line on an imaginary enemy, concluding the display at half-past five ; after parting salutations, and many dumb expressions of regret, the Eulers of the Japanese Empire returned to their native place, under a salute of fifteen guns from the " Liverpool." At the time when the floating entertainment was in course of progress. Lady Parkes had been presiding at the British Legation over as large a party of officers of the squadron as horses could be found to carry and draw ; and after a very pleasant ride through the streets of Yeddo, a stoppage was made for luncheon in the village of Ogee, where the guests were waited on by fair, rouged damsels with gilded lips and pretty ways ; and after strolling along the bank of a smaU stream afterwards, to watch the Japanese piscator, still armed with his scimitar, zealously angUng for animals about the size of a minnow, the return voyage took place through Yeddo, inspecting the temples and tea-gardens on the way, and was safely accomplished about six o'clock, with no further accident than the subsidence of a mid- shipman's horse into ^he mud, and the consequent prostration into the i;ime matter of a hard-riding Heutenant following in too close order. .« 232 FLYING SQUADRON. Sunday, April 17th. — At 1.50 p.m. weighed from Yeddo under steam, anchoring again oflf Yokohama at ten minutes past four, found the French Commodore had arrived in the " Venus " frigate. Monday was spent in leave-taking and curio-buying, many remaining long after dusk to knock some more than usually stubborn Japanese shopkeeper down in his price, for some coveted article, which he invariably disposed of at the last minute for about half the originally demanded dollars. Tuesday, April 19th. — Weighed under sail at 6.20 a.m., having received the " Pearl " into the bosom of the flock, leaving " Barrosa " behind on the China station, with a falling glass and heavy rain, blowing a moderate breeze from the northward, which freshened to a strong gale on clearing the bay, with a short, heavy, confused sea, and very thick weather. Next day the wind moderated, and going round to the south-eastward, the squadron made sail, and wore to the northward, the winds constantly shifting suddenly to all points of the compass, with occasional calms and heavy rain, which lasted until the 3rd of May, in 46° N., 170° W. ; hail and snow squalls commenced, when the wind again shifted suddenly to the N.W., and once more we had our great helpmate round the world, in the shape of the brave west winds, this time in the northern JAPAN TO VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 233 liemispliere, which veering from N.W. to South, but chiefly from the southward, and seldom freshening beyond a strong breeze, with violent snow squalls. They carried us from 118° W. to 128° W., a distance of two thousand miles in ten days, which has the effect of causing passages where westerly winds are preva- lent to be monopoUzed by sailing vessels, and which took us within a day of sighting the Island of Van- couver, as on the afternoon of the 12th they dis- appeared, and the sky became overcast and hazy, the wind shifting to the N.E., and the following morning, at daylight, the high land of Vancouver's was observed on the bow. In the evening the squadron stood to the southward on a wind, blowing a strong breeze with heavy squalls and rain from the eastward. The . next day we were employed in a hopeless-looking task of beating against a south-easter for the entrance of St. Juan de Fuca Straits until 2 p.m., when the wind shifted to the sauthward, and we stood in with a fair wind, which fell to almost a calm on getting inside, with fine, clear weather, which carried us slowly up towards our haven, and now we quote an extract from the log of the " Liverpool," to show the driving power that was obliged to be resorted to, in the chase round the world, for the purpose of trying to catch the nine days lost in the start : April 29. Blowing a strong F F M f 'I T If Mil t i 234 FLYING SQUADRON. :f; mi breeze to a moderate gale. 2 p.m. Split maintopmast staysail. 8 p.m. Split foretopgallant sail. 8.30 p.m. Split foretopsail. 9.30. Split maintopgallant sail. 10.30. Split maintopsail. 2.30 a.m. Split jib. 4. a.m. Split mainsail, the ship still going over ten knots, under a treble-reefed mizzentop sail, foresail and fore- topmast staysail, and Tfhat was still more depressing in these economical times, the irretrievable loss of 513 yards of canvas blown away. And now it becomes our painful duty to narrate the most melancholy accident which ocQurred during the cruise of the squadron — the loss of Mr. Robert E. Warren, midshipman of the " Scylla," overboard, on the 25th of April, in 39° N., 156° E. : the more unfortunate on account of its occurring on his 17th birthday, and also because he had only shortly before left his father and mother at Hobarton. The accident occurred while heaving the log at five o'clock in the evening, the weight caused by the strain on the line overbalancing him ; the ship at the time going over ten knots, with a bubbling sea and strong breeze; the temperature of the sea and air being 4G°, a consider- able decrease since the preceding day. The fact of the first lieutenant of the " Scylla " being on the bridge at the time was a certain guarantee that all that a seaman's skill and human hand could do, was done, T" ^■IPiPB^P«!P"W«^l^|^^P"^W»"^ JAPAN TO VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 235 as the boat was almost instantaneously lowered, and at that time the boy was apparently swi'uraing strong, and rapidly nearing the buoy, which many eager eyes from more than one ship were ai < piously watching, but it lay in other than earthly hands, and on his getting within a few yards of what would have been certain life, hope and all the ambitions of youth, the hands were seen lifted high in the air, and the mother's darling sank to rise no more from the dark and fathomless depths of the cold Nc hhern Ocean until the sound of the archangel is heard, and the sea gives up her dead : then, through the infinite mere}' of his Creator, who had called him, for purposes above human con prehension, to the Hfe immortal, and to live for ever and ever in the presence of his IVlediator and Redeemer, Christ Jesus. " The sea, the lone blue sea hath one ; he lies where pearls lie deep. He was the loved of all, yet none o'er his lone bed may weep ; And parted thus they rest, who played beneath the same green tree, Whose voices mingled as they played around one parent knee ; They that with smiles lit up the hall, and cheered with song the hearth. Alas for love if thou wert all, and nought beyond, oh earth !" When the lapse of time and the many present cares of this life shall have somewhat softened the anguish of a mother's heart, it may be some small consolation to Mrs. Warren to know that we had occasion to go on board the " Scylla " two days after- I I ■ ll 1 m ■ipii mil pit t}-\ 111 230 FLYING SQUADRON. wards, and there was one universal gloom over officers and men, as though each, individually, had lost one dearly loved ; a certain sign amongst the men, who, through the constant presence of immediate death, are rather prone to think of life too cheaply; of the character of the future man if he had been spared to be an ornament to his profession : but thy ways O God are not our ways. Sunday, May 15th. — The squadron, getting the first of the westerly wind, ran into the Straits of St. Juan de Fuca, and up to the " Scylla," which had been detached the previous morning, to provide berths for the squadron, and which was what may technically be called, hung up, waiting for the wind, which the rest of the squadron were bringing up with them, and so they all ran up together, " Scylla" leading, and anchored in Esqjaimalt Harbour in the course of the afternoon, where the "Zealous" (flagship of Admiral Farquhar), " Sparrowhawk " and " Boxer," were found at anchor, also the " Charybdis," with her bow in a self-constituted dry dock — a brilliant piece of scientific ingenuity, the work of her first lieutenant (Mr. Sargeant.) Shortly after anchoring, the Admiral, accompanied by the Commander-iii-Ohief of the Pacific, landed to call on Mr. Musgrave (Governor of British Columbia), who, with Miss Musgi-ave, had driven [■ Pi o cq < z ^ t- E8QUIMALT, VANCOUVKlt's ISLAND. 237 down from Victoria to see the arrival, as well as a large mimber of the people of the town, who, notwith- standing the constant arrivJ and departure of Her MaiBsty's ships at the head-quarters of the Pacific station, had turned out to see the arriv^al of a squadron, somewhat out of the usual routine; and though the colony, numerically, is small and very poor, the working classes, as a majority, we think are loyal to the old country, although there are very few who would not rejoice to see British Columbia under protection of the United States, in order that the great internal resources of the country might be opened out by the most progressive people in the world ; SbU<\ that, consequently, the working community of tho country, through their own labour and foreign enterprise, might be enabled to support themselves, their wives and families, which under the present economical and short-sighted colonial policy they are unable to do. ' . What the Editor of the British Colonist thought of the arrival of the Flying Squadron :— " AEIUVAL OF THE FLYING SQUADRON. " Shortly before noon, on Sunday (15th inst.), the " long-expected Flying Squadron was signalled as in *' sight from the Rttce Rook Light to Admiral Farquhar ., i ril! 238 ri.VtN'G SCiUAUCON. ** on board the flagsliip 'Zealous,' and soon after, six " war ships, with all sail set, hove in sight of the city. " A breeze, suffi<3iently stroni^ to fill every inch of ** canvas, was blowing, and as the vessels rounded the " rocks, the townspeople Hocked to adjacent hills and *• points to witness the grand, picturesque sight. Off " Albert Head four of the ships were abreast, tall, •* stately, and majestic, with the bright rays of the sun " full upon their snow-white sails, and the stiff breeze ** bowling them swiftly on towards Esquimalt. The " * Scylla ' was the first to enter Esquimalt Harbour, ** followed by the ' Liverpool,' flagship of Admiral *' Hornby. Off the entrance the * liverpool ' saluted, " and the comphment was immediately acknowledged *♦ by H.M.S. ' Zealous,' fiagsliip of Admiral Farquhar, ** lying at anchor in the harbour. The remaining *' vessels followed one by one, and took up the position " assigned them at the buoys." During the stay of the squadron, the lakes were largely patronized, much to the disgust, probably, of the trout in them, the more eager starting on occasions, soon after midnight, others employing a deputy, at a largo reward we should hope, to sleep either in a boat or else on the bank, regardless of Indians, snakes, etc., in order to secure a much-sought-after spot, where the trout were supposed to have a preferenca for Flying Squadron mm ;^ii! ES(iI3lMALT, VANCOUVEK S ISLAND. flies. After finishing the refitting, tliere being a few hours t)f comparative idleness for the British seaman, the sheet anchors were pulled about the harbour in various attitudes, for the inspection of the midshipmen. The 24th, being the anniversary of Her Majesty's birthday, was a great day at Victoria, commencing with a large American river steamer, containing about 500 people, coming round from Victoria to see the flieet fire their 168 guns at noon ; and in the after- noon the Victoria Eaces came off at the town, includ- ing a naval flat race of one mile, won by Sub-Lieut. Baring (" Zealous ") on Deacon, Lieutenant Fitzgerald ("Zealous") only securing a second place, owing to having mistaken the winning-post, and we have much to regret that, notwithstanding the very super or jookeyship of Lieutenant Wood (" Scylla "), Caf6 au Lait was nowhere ; after which there was a naval hurdle race over the same course, and six flighcs of hurdles, which was won, owing in a groat measure to almost professional talent, by Lieutenant Wood, on Butcher Boy. The Blue Jacket race came next, and was decidedly the most amusing part of the day's programme, one gentleman's horse leaving the course before accomplishing much more than a yard or two» and every one of the other combatants, seeing an adversary inclined to draw ahead of him, immediately 240 FLYING SQUADROX. laid hold of soraeiliing, totally regardless whether it was the horae'a tail or the tail of a shirt, so long as he acc(^mplished what he called a tow, which decidedly impeded the progress of liis friends, and two of them, managing to elude the towdug process, finished so close a race that the stakes were divided ; one of the winners being a member of the distinguished corps of Royal Marines. In the evening His Excellency the Gover- nor gave his birthday ball at Government House, the preparations for which neari)'^ caused the destruction of that building, one of the chandeliers, in the process of being Hghted, fulfilling the law of gravity, displaced the oil, then in a state of flame, on to the beeswax on the floor, wlion almost instantaneously the flames reached the ceiling, but happily were put out without further damage than scorching the -'.veiling and reduc- ing a largo portion of the floor into charcoal, which, acting like a ploughed field to the heavy goers, stopped them altogether; and in consequence of the enormous profits made by the limite <■ * 11' 244 FLYING SQUADRON. " they have entered with great heartiness and good " nature into every public amusement and philan- " thropic enterprise, and have, at the same time, " exerted themselves to contribute to the amusement " of the public. Two things are matter of regret : the " first is, that they must leave us so soon ; the second " is, that their visit to this colony has been unmarked " by any of those public demonstrations of welcome " and appreciation extended to them in other colonies. " It would be doing this community a very great ** wrong to attribute the absence of any such demon- " stration to want of goodwill. It is simply the result " of impecuniosity. The community is small, and " times have been so bad, that it was felt a demon- " stration which would be at all worthy of the occasion " would be beyond the means of the people ; and it " was thought better not to attempt anything of the " kind unless it could be carried out in a way credit- " able to all parties. We beg, therefore, to assure the ** officers of the Flying Squadron that there has been " no want of respect or desire on the part of the " people to do honour to the occasion ; but, under " the peculiar circumstances of the case, they must *^ accept the will for the deed. The general feehng ** of regret consequent upon the departure of the " Flying Squadron will be considerably increased r " 1' , VANCOUVER S ISLAND TO HONOLULU. 245 "by the circumstance of its ' ing accompanied by " the ' Charybdis,' a ship which has been on this " station for some time. Captain Lyons and his " officers have, during their stay here, formed a large " circle of acquaintances, by whom the loss will be " keenly felt. To all we bid adieu with regret, and " to all we wish a pleasant voyage and prosperous " career." i I Eight o'clock on the following morning found the squadron steaming out of Esquimalt Harbour, with the " Charybdis " in company, she having taken the place of the " Scylla," who was left behind with the greatest regret, though we dare say the feeling was not reciprocated ; nevertheless there was a great ovation on her part as the squadron passed out, the officers and ship company manning every available boat in the ship, and laying at the entrance of the harbour, tossing their oars, and cheering each successive ship as she passed on her way, which was returned with three, and one more, from the rigging of the passing ship; and as the last of the squadron were retreating, the signal went up from the " Scylla's " galley — " Happiness attend Flying Squadron 1 " to which the Admiral repHed, " Health and happiness attend you !" and then the " Scylla's " returned to their ship and com- 11 t i I i 246 I'LVIM; SCiUADKON. parative peace, the squadron steaming down St. Juan de Fuca Straits on its ocean career against time. At half-past seven, being clear of the Straits, stopped engines, and made sail to the southward, close-hauled, with a fresh westerly breeze, which gradually hauled round by Northward to N.E., and, on the 5th of June in 36° N. 139° W. it became very light. On the 6th, 7th, and 8th, light and variable airs and calms were experienced. At 1 a.m. of the 9th, we got the N.E. Trade, with cloudy weather, and showers of rain, which though exceedingly unsteady in force and direction, and with occasional strong squalls and showers., it carried us on in the right direction, until the morning of the 15th, when the " Liffey " made a signal that she had discovered land; and then everybody's eyes were turned to the horizon in the direction named, but entirely without success, until some gentleman, we fancy in the act of sneezing, made a remark — " By Jove ! there it is!" and towering high above the clouds, almost looking down on you, was the Island of Mowee, then 60 miles oft*; and at 6.30 p.m., hauled to the wind off" the East point of the Island of Oahu to wait for daylight. Thursday, Juno 16th, 6 a.m. — Bore up for the anchorage ; and running before a fresh North-Easterly HONOLULU. 247 breeze, arrived off Honolulu shortly before eleven o'clock ; Mrhen, after the " Liverpool," " Phoobo," and ♦* Charybdis " had anchored, the " Endymion," running with sails clewed up before a fresh breeze, going rapidly through the water, steered with the intention of passing close under the " Liverpool's " stern, which opening as she got close to, was effectually shut in, in some unaccountable manner, by the " Phoebe " to leeward ; then it was too late to go astern of the " Phcebe " or a-head of the " Liverpool," 80 the only alternative was to make an opening for her- self, but luckily, striking the "Charybdis' " stern on her way, which though much to the devastation of that part of the stricken ship, had the salutary effect of checking her Aray, and also allowing her head to pay off sufficiently, as only to strike the " Phcebe" in the same place, the anchor having also been let go, tended to stop the ship, which, without the happy interven- tion of ^ the "Charybdis," must have struck the " Phoebe " broadside on, just before her mainmast, going about five knots at the time, with a result that would have been probably fatal to something ; as it was, jibboom, spanker, boats, etc., was the only damage ; Captain Bythesea and Captain Lyons both having their boats cut in half, the bow of one and the stern of the other being saved. It was sug- ::i ■ in ■ill IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A fc // Q., 1.0 I.I M M 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 -•- 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 .5%. ^^^^; ^.^ *.»w>...,i^,,..^.,...,^,,,.^^,^.^...^^^^ iWfBa ' " ■" i || i in i | i i i liMMi o 00 X' o 2 o a; << D o t — ' y ►-< y.ii.^.idiiliiiUiiHilUi^^ •'^J HONOLULU. 249 rendezvous having been made at the Consulate, from where the procession of c^images started, the Admiral leading in the royal carriage, driven by an English coachman in green-and-gold Uvery, black velvet jockey cap, and drawn by four bays ; when on arriving at the door of the palace, the officers weie received on the steps by Colonel Prendergast (Chamberlain to the King), and introduced to Mr. Harris, the Minister of Foreign Afiairs, who in a short time led the way to the throne-room, where the presentation to His Majesty took place, in the presence of the officers of the King's bodyguard and the great men of the kingdom ; after the conclusion of which, an a(^'ournment to an adjacent apartment took place, where ice, champagne, and almost every known liquid, wertf supplied in abundance, and became doubly grateful, on account of the exceeding heat of the day. After about an hour spent at the palace, a general adjournment was made to the very pretty cottage of Queen Emma in the Nuaunu Valley, about three miles from the town, where Her Majesty, with her ladies in waiting, Mrs. Mott Smith and Mrs. Pratt, received the officers of the squadron, with that quiet dignity and kindly manner which has caused Queen Emma to be so fondly remembered in our own country. In the afternoon a large riding party, organized by Mrs. Wodehouse and Mrs. Stirling, and ably carried u H '^i g"J ; lA \ h]- :250 PLYING SQUADRON. 'out by tho latter, consistiiif;; of the Admiral, captains, ;and many officers of* the squadron, accompanied by many of the young ladies of the island ; who did not ride Hawaiian fashion ; including one young lady, who condescended to be very gracious; unfortunately, to the father of a family, sailing under false colours, and no mean adept in the deception, caused by constant practice in the Southern Colonies, and after the coast ride round the Diamond Head, and over many miles of clinker, a soaking rain Commenced, and caused a general scurry back to thfo town, where a sumptuous dinner was provided at the Club, Major "Wodehouse, the Admiral, and many of the squadron, being the guests ; after which the captains of the squadron took possession of a palatial residence which they had taken for the stay of the squadron, where all the luxuries of life were obtainable in abundance, and which was christened Pot-pourri House, on account of the mis- cellaneousness of its attractions; the inhabitants of which celestial abode were awoke on the following morning by the cheerful sound of the colonel's voice : " Me boys, I've brought the doctor to see you;" which gentleman, on a rush being made out of bed to make his acquaintance, turned out to be a magnificent member of the King's bodyguard, two paces in the rear of his chief, with a soda-water making mmmmnf ' iiiiiMiMiMiiliMii mmmmmmm Pi HONOLULU. 251 machine under one arm and a bottle of champagne under the other, which, considering the circumstances, was eminently grateful. On Sunday morning a large number of officers attended church ashore, where they heard a short and very efficient sermon from Mr. Williamson, and in the evening a highly eloquent discourse from the Bishop of the squadron. Monday, June 20th. — The squadron dressed, and fired a royal salute at noon, the fort ashore (Punch- bowl) also following suit, in honour of the accession of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. At 1 p.m. the King, with a large and very brilliant staflf, embarked in the Admiral's barge, and proceeded on board the " Liver- pool," where he was received with a royal salute, the Hawaiian standard being hoisted at the main; and we most sincerely regret that the Queen was unable to accompany her august relation, owing to the motion of the ships, which rendered getting up the side of Her Majesty's vessels a work of considerable risk for a lady. The King and stafi^ were entertained by the Admiral at lunch, after which the men were exercised at General Quarters, and at three o'clock the " Liver- pool" fired a royal salute as His Majesty left the ship; after which, Mrs. Wodehouse had a gardf party, at which Queen Emma was present, as w d "■»-^''T^™rTw«wp«f^l!^ywpf5*f^'«f^ n >.■?■• -I 252 FLYING SQUADEOK. as the Hite of Honolulu, the band of the " Phoebe " l^performing the musioal part of the entertamment. Ife. the eyening the Admiral dined the Ministers for Foreign Affairs and the Interior (Mr. Harris and Mr. Hutchison), the Governor of Oahu, the Minister Resident of the United States, Colonel Prendergast, and the captains of the squadron. Tuesday, 21st. — ^All the rank and fashion assembled in Queen Emma Square during the afternoon to hear one of the squadron's band, as the people of the island are, unfortunately, dependent on passing ships for their musical entertainments. In the evening Major and Mrs. Wodehouse entertained His Majesty, Queen Emma, Mrs. Bishop, Mrs. Stirling, Colonel Prendergast, and the captains of the squadron at dinner. On the King and Queen going away shortly after twelve o'clock, the party broke up ;. after which Pot-pourri House gave a small and late entertain- ment, which was fashionably attended. Wednesday, 22nd.--The British residents gave their picnic to the officers of the squadron, for which Her Majesty had graciously lent her cottage in the valley, and which was largely attended by the squadron and the ladies of " Honolulu, a sumptuous luncheon being laid on the grass, under cover of a tent, just in front of the house, where, directly after &:' Limgynim RPPB "liP I o o I < a, wm 4 1 'irjuiiiiii tiijiiiitoiiiBfiiirai ■mmmmmmmmmmmm^^'m.'^^ HONOLULU TO VALPARAISO. 253 the company had sat down, the Queen drovo up, accompanied by Mrs. Wodehouse, and took a pro- minent part in the entertainment ; which, after lunch, took the form of dancing, croqaet, etc., the bands of the " Phoebe " and " Endymion " supplying the music ; feminine recreations and much mirth were the order of the day until seven o'clock, when a rapidly-deepening twilight warned the company that it was time to be off, and a hurried leave-taking of many friends, in spite of the shortness of the acquaintance, a sharp gallop down the valley to the wharf and back again on board, to be boxed up on the mighty ocean for another two months! Before leaving Honolulu for good, we must sincerely thank Queen Emma for her kind, though; unfortunately, unavailing attempts to prolong the squadron's stay, as the vessel bringing the mail was then overdue, and momentarily expected; but as it was round the world against time, letters, of course, were no object, and " Forward !" was still the cry. To Colonel Prendergast, for his unvarying kindnesses to the squadron, in and out of his public capacity, they will always be eminently grateful. Thursday, June 23rd.— 9.40 a.m. weighed under sail, with a fresh breeze from E.N*E. ; and until Oahu was out of sight, many covetous glances were cast back at the little island, where a week had been so 254. FLYING SQUADRON. £ Iv' ,1 I pleasantly spent, enhanced by the multitude of Hawaiian charms ; and bore away, with a due south course, to avoid being becalmed under the lee of Hawaii, better known, perhaps, as Owyhee, and the place where Captain Cook was barbarously killed during his ex- ploration of the world; and though not within a hundred miles of it, the winds, while passing even that distance, were light and baflUng, until the large area of ocean dominated over by Manua Loa, the great mountain of the Sandwich Islands, nearly fourteen thousand feet high, was passed ; then the Trade again became 8teai wi y»fi*iw r ii^yiwiiiyBMwp* ^ms wimm 258 FLYING SUUADltOK. |ijl ! Tvo closed tbe land ; and at half-past five the home- ward mail steamer from Valparaiso passed, and was asked to report the squadron; and, at twenty minutes past seven, all possibility of saving daylight having vanished, the squadron wore, and stood oflf and on during the night, which was not a pleasant perform- ance, as it was blowing strong from the southward, with anything but a smooth sea. Sunday, August 14th, 5.15 a.m.— Wore and stood in for the anchorage; took in second reef of topsail, the wind still blowing strong from the southward; but as we got inside the Lighthouse it fell altogether, and resolved itself into light airs from various direc- tions, which was just sufficient to carry the squadron up to their anchorage by about eight o'clock, where we found the Austrian frigate had dropped in, and taken up the best of billets during the night ; found l^iiig there, also, the "SateUite" (Captain Edye) and "Fawn" (Commander Knevitt). After which, the "Liverpool" exchanged various complimentary salutes w'th Chili, Austria, etc. Monday, 15th. — Squadron dressed, and fired a royal salute at noon, in honour of fute day of the Emperor of the French; and the next day Rear- Admiral the Baron von Petz re-hoisted his flag on board the " Donau," and was saluted by the " Liverpool "; the Admiral also holding the appoint- wjmimm mpppipii wmm. VALPARAISO. 259 ment of Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Pleni- potentiary, in the Austrian diplomatic mission round the world, and well known as commodore of the line- of-battle ship " Kaiser" at the battle of Lissa, where he manifested, for the first time, the destructive power of a wooden ship used as a ram against iron. Thursday, 10th, being the birthday of H.I. and R.M. the Emperor of Austria, the squadron were ordered to dress ship, with the Austrian ensign at the main, in doing which some difficulty was expe- rienced, owing to there being nine ships to be dressed, and only three Austrian ensigns to do it with — another exposure which had to be gone through, of the extreme liberality of the present Administration, and which was only put right by the extreme kind- ness of Captain Wiplinger, of the " Donau," who supplied his last ensign for the purpose of dressing a British Squadron, and during the afternoon the news came up by telegraph from the southward, of war between France and Prussia, having been dropped by the outward-bound " Valparaiso " mail on her way up, which canaed great excitement throughout the squadron, and also on board the Austrian frigate, as it was thought extremely likely that Russia, taking advantage of the crisis, might make a demonstra- tion towards the forbidden ground, which would endanger the Austrian Empire to such an extent that. .— ,..,Ti*.^.-^ii— 111. * » 'ii.iB; _ i L ' w. i H *»«*«ii . ii. n .ii»> ' i »- i. « i ik .; nil— m > ^ — ■■J | . »» i gVj « M ^ii.«..» *..»4..w ? '-* ■-*—■• " -r- 260 FLYING SQUADRON. St* as they expressed it, they would have to throw away the scabbard again, and spend their last penny for the prevention of Russian aggression from their Eastern provinces, which event would almost endanger the existence of the Empire ; so the news to them was of vital importance. In the evening, Baron VcQ Petz entertained the Admiral at dinner, and fired two royal salutes during the entertainment — one at sunset, and one when His Alajesty's health was drank, which, with one at sunset the evening before — 8 a.m. and noon — ^made a total of five royal salutes for the Imperial welfare. Friday, 11th. — At 1 p.m. the Pacific Steam Naviga- tion Company's steamer " Araucania " arrived, having left Liverpool on the 13th of July with funds rising, and Bordeaux on the 15th with war declared, touch- ing at Lisbon, Montevideo, and Sandy Point, in the Straits of Magellan, making the extraordinary quick passage of thirty-seven days from Liverpool, which will soon be reduced to nearly thirty, by the fastest line of ocean steamers in the world. And in virtue of the old adage of an ill wind, the war became a pro- vidential relief to the contractor for supplying the squadron with coals, as he had been ordered to have 1,400 tons ready, and had also gone to a large expense to prepare for coaling six ships, which, without the news, would have been utterly thrown away, as wmm mmfmm\ mp mmmmm "!^ VALPAEAISO. 261 according, we believe, to the orders of the L.C.A., the squadron were not to use coal for steaming purposes ; consequently did not steam — only a very Hmited expenditure for the purposes of cooking, and also for the manufacture of the extremely finite supply of water ; not a ton of coal would have been taken from the contractor, and the individual himself would have raa,de another victim. On Monday, 22nd, the Admiral entertained the Austrian Admiral and staff at dinner, after which the Austrian Consul-General (Monsieur Sozat) gave a ball. And we hope the stay at Valparaiso had a salutary effect on the officers of the squadron, in order to prevent them, forming too exaggerated an idea of the satisfaction which our merchants in the colonies and foreign countries had in seeing a British Squadron in their waters, which, although founded on the many 'kindnesses and civilities which had pre- viously been shown to the squadron over a large part of the globe, was, nevertheless, found to be erratic as regards the British reb ients in the Chilian Liverpool, and we hope it had the effect of a powerful tonic, as other- wise the Flyers might have been too conceited with their popularity in the colonies, and we have no doubt that in case of war they will be more diplomatic. To Mr. Heatley, for his unvarying and constant kindnesses, we I II n\i m. Hi I- l! I ! 262 FLYING SQUADRON. cannot be too grateful, more especially on account of their singularity. A constant stream of officers had been passing backwards and forwards between Santiago, Lemarch6, and the several small towns in the proximity of the railway, and on Tuesday, the 23rd, there was a large departure of the squadron for Santiago, including the Admiral and most of the captains, who took up their quarters on arrival at the Hotels Oddo and Anglais, of which, after a trial of .both, the preference must certainly be given to the former, which, under the attentive care of its enterprising proprietor, Monsieur Honorat, is all that can be desired, in spite of the attraction of the Prima Donna at the rival house, and the satisfaction of a rehearsal of her future performances during the greater ■ part of the night, which is an extremely questionable advantage. The places of. interest in the town were largely visited, including the ground where the Church of Compania once stood, the burning of which caused such a thriUing feehng— firstly of horror at the fearful sacrifice of life, and, secondly, of i-.dignation at .he dastardly conduct of the fanatical priests, who ha\ing made good their retreat through the vestry door, closed and locked it, as they alleged, to prevent the robbery of the church plate, by which act of perfidy they wore mainly instru- ! VALPARAISO. 263 mental in causing the deaths of 2,700 people, and those almost entirely women and children, who had rushed to the only other outlet, the door of which, un- fortunately opening inwards, became impossible to open, owing to the crush of the thousands of terror- stricken women pressing franticly to the supposed opening, and the consequence of which was, the fire originating through the ignition of some cotton curtains, which, on account of its being the Feast of the Immaculate Concepcion, were being used for decor''.ting the church, as well as thousands of kerosine lamps, the fire burnt through a rope suspended from the ceihng, to which were attached some hundreds of these lamps, which, falling with a frightful crash on the stone floor of tho church, caused an instant ex- plosion, setting fire to the rest of the drapery, the whole church was almost instantaneously enveloped in flames ; and then the roof commenced to rain showers of molten lead on the unfortunate victims, whose agonizing sufferings were happily hid from mortal eyes ; and, when an entrance could be effected from outside, nothing was left of what a few minutes before represented nearly 3,000 people in the act of devotion to their Grod, except a heaped mass of charred and burning flesh, which was extricated from the debris of the church by means of rakes, and I ■!s-»i , u'^,i,!iwiie: ii\sivm!::''s ^ss: >-i 264 PLYTNQ SQUADRON. buried in one common tomb in the cemetery at Santiago. The sulphur baths of Apoquindo, about nine miles from the town, were also largely patronized, as well as the opera, where Signorina Marchetti was ably performing her part as Prima Donna in Lucia di Lammermoor. The Santiago days being very hot and the nights intensely cold, on account of when the sun sets the night air comes off the tops of the snowy Andes, which encircle the town, and for which reason, after a certain hour in the evening, the streets are deserted. On "Wednesday, Mr. Thompson, the British Minister, dined his colleagues, the Admiral, and as many captains as he could find in Santiago, and where, also, were the representatives of the two great nations, apparently unaware that their respective countries were warring almost for existence. A couple of days of the Chilian capital were gene- rally found to be amply sufficient by those who had not the gift of the Castilian tongue. And Friday saw a general return to Valparaiso, in. order to be ready for any news, which the expected Sunday mail might bring; and the next day the Austrian Admiral, contrary to his previous intention, went on board the "Liverpool," to make his farewell to HOMEWARD BOUND. 266 his British colleague, so it was generally surmised that he had been the recipient of a private telegram from Santiago concerning the attitude of Russia. Sunday, 28th. — ^At 6.30 a.m. the mail steamer " Pacific " hove in sight, and great was the anxiety as to what news she might bring, which, of a public nature, was not more than we knew before, but of a private one was sufficient to cause the signal to be made from the " Liverpool " for the squadron to prepare for sea by 5 p.m., which caused a general rejoicing — ^in the first place, that the race was virtually over, and also that the more sanguinary ones had an erratic idea that they were on the eve of returning to their native land as fast an steam and sail could take them. Shortly after 2 p.m. the Austrian Admiral weighed, and, Bteaming through the squadron under a perfect ovation of guards, bands, and national anthems, passed out, en route for Montevideo, via the Magellan Straits; and between 4.30 and 6.30 the squadron were employed trying to weigh* under sail and clear the harbour in almost a calm, which, as far as the " Liverpool " and " Pearl " were concerned, was not efibcted, as they had to get steam up, and were not clear of the harbour before dark, when the squadron stood away to the westward with light southerly winds, which lasted until the afternoon of K K tmmm HH 11^ i"; i «!l 2G(> FLYING SQUADRON. the 30th, when, the wind falling very light, steam was got up at 4 p.m. for 5 knots, and as soon as the engines commenced to operate, the breeze freshened again, and necessitated keeping away to set fore and aft sails, in order to allow of progress at all ; and at 10 o'clock next morning?, having steamed seventy- nine miles, and expended 136 tons of coal, sail was again made to a light breeze from the S.S.E., and in the afternoon we passed to the north- ward of the Island of Juan Fernandez, that place of imperishable fame, as the home for so many years, of Alexander Selkirk, better known as Robinson Crusoe ; and the next day th6 wind remained light and vari- able, between South and S.W. At 6 p.m. sighted the Island of Masafuera, and on the 2nd of September, towards sunset, the wind went round to the eastward, and, freshening, lasted from the southward and east- ward until the morning of the 6th, the day before which, exchanged colours with the barque " Spirit of the Morning," bound for Cork, and at 10 a.m. the squadron proceeded on the towing principle — ** Endy- " * mion ' - towing " Liverpool," « Phoebe " " Liffey," " Pearl " " Satellite," the captain's price on the latter vessel for the job being, we believe, one sheep ; and in the afternoon again passed our friend " of the Morn- ing," who evidently had some sort of idea that men-of- mm.. I. .,.. HOMEWARD BOUND. 267 war always stoam, as he asked the Admiral to report him in England, and after an affirmative answer and an exchange of compliments, as, " vV^ish you a pleasant "voyage!" to which the "Liverpool" answered, '* Safe home !" and then we parted with our little com- rade, and are now in happy ignorance as to his where- abouts ; but we should say, probably ahead, so that he may have the opportunity of being able to report the squadron. At 4 a.m. of the 6th a light breeze sprang up from the northward, and barometer beginning 'to fall, 30*44 ; and at 4'40 in the afternoon, towing ships, cast off, and then made sail to a light breeze from the N.N.E., barometer 30*42. The next day, wind freshen- ing from N.N.W.; barometer, at noon, 30"25 ; mid- night, 30'05; misty, cloudy weather. The next day, 8th, the mist turning into a fog, and the wind going round to the southward, the glass began to rise until midnight, when the wind went round to the northward of west, and the glass began again to fall ; midnight, next day, blowing a fresh gale in squalls, barometer, 29 "66. On the 10th, strong breezes and moderate gales from the southward, which went to the north-westward the following day, and blew a strong gale. Daylight of the 12th it was blowing'a whole gale. " Liverpool" and "Endymion" were close together, "Satellite" astern, and the rest of the squadron a-head, the mm wm^. I''. 1 m ftgg fLYiNG SQITADEON. AdxnW. being in the centre, wa, ™nly endeavo«™»g to get the •• SateUite " along, and the vessels a-head ,e» rapidly leaving hi, sight, with a faUing ^lass and ::j tlJooking weather; especially as the course J to be altered, it became a matter of moment, f keeping one another's company was a necessity, to .„icate with the leading sHps. so "E^'^y-- hoisting a double-reefed maintopsail. with a topgalUnt .ail 0^ it, which almost instantaneously took a departure wholesale, for the icy continent of the KAlrotio h»d. very soon closed the leadmg sh^.,. and ^. communicating the desired information, dropped tack, in order to keep close to the Admm.1, wtach worthy act was frustrated by the elements, and per- haps a little judicious helm, by the representative of the midnightvigil; in which base attempt at desertion. if attempted at all. was not successfal. as next morn- ing, at dayUght. the squadron were spread over, the ocean, looking for the absent one. wh.. dunng *e forenoon, wa, discovered in the ^M. quar^r. under a press of sail, and forced to rejoin the squadron and in the first watoh (13th) passed the mendian of the Horn, about fifty mUes to the southward, blowing a moderate to a strong gale fi.om W.N.W.. weather B. 0. V. Q. L. (bine sky. cloudy, passing showers, squaUy. lightning). At the same time, " Phcebe had // . 1 .nmmivm to / p:. Ill '& ^ ■I 4i HOMEWARD 130UND. 269 her fast racing cutter, which had been built at Sydney, washed away, and the next day the wind went to the northward and fell light, and we passed through a very heavy and peculiar sea, which at times broke from trough to crest, as though rolling over a shallow bar. On the 15th the wind went to the ^southward, and immediately freshened to a fiti^o.ug gale ; and at noon of the 16th, the third largest fcwenty-fours' run during the squadron's career was recorded, 272 miles, and the two following days 242 and 262, the wind going to westward, and increasing in force ; blowing a whole gale on the 18th, with a heav}'^ beam sea, which had th(: effect of carrying the "Pha^be's" second tiller away — ono having gone the previous night; so she had to lay-to, and was, consequently, missed by the squadron ; and the '* Pearl " likewise disappeared, and the next afternoon was discovered ahead ; and the on^y information that was to be gathered about '• Phoebe " was, " Liffey " making a signal to the Admiral to say — " ' Phoebe ' dropping at 5 p.m. " yesterday, shifting foretopsail ; " which was, as it appeared to her, though at the time she was seen, 'as they thought, shifting foretopsail, she was an unmanageable ship, sti'ugghng with a boisterous sea. On the 20th, being spread o\ex the ocenn in r li 270 FLYING SQUADRON. search of the wanderer, the " LilBey " descried a ship astern, and was told to come to the wind and reconnoitre stranger, when she soon reported : — *' Strange ship is man-of-war; " and then, " Stranger "is steering N.N.E. JB., with port stunsails set;" and shortly afterwards "Phoebe" was seen coming up under a cloud of canvas, and, as soon as she arrived in signal distance, informed the Admiral that both tillers had been carried away during the gale, which forced her to lay-to for eleven hours ; and though it was only forty hours since she was left in difficulties, daring which time the rest had been runninp' nine and ten knots, she performed the same distance in twenty-nine hours, that it. took the squadron forty to do. On the 21st, crossing our previous outward-bound track within two or three days of precisely the same place one year before, the Admiral made the signal to the frigates : " Accept my thanks and congratu- " lations on having kept company round the world; " we intend to spHce the mainbrace ;" which was accordingly done, and general festivities took place, in a smaL. way, throughout the squadron, and mutual sincere congratulations that the end was fast approaching. Until the 26th we had light southerly, and easterly winds, when they shifted to the north- ' ' ;, PI^HMM HOMEWABD BOUND. 271 ward, and it becoming almost calm, steam was got up at four o'clock in the afternoon by the " Endy- mion," " Phoebe," and '* Pearl," when the towing process went on again ; and during the afternoon " Satellite " discovered that her rudder-head had been badly sprung in the gale, and that it would have to be unshipped to repair. The next morning, at 7.30, cast off, and made sail to, a light northerly wind, and on the morning of the 29th, on arriving in the high road of outward-bounders, a ship was seen on the weather bow, passing on her outward-bound career, when immediately the ^'Liffey" was sent to chase followed by the rest of the squadron ; and as soon as the captain of the outward-bounder found himself chased by six ships, he surrendered at discretion, hauled his mainsail up, and hove-to, turning out to be the " Melbourne," forty-five days out, bound for the port of the same name, so fondly remembered. So he was boarded for news by " Liffey," the weather-line passing close under his stern, with bands playing " The girl we left behind," etc., in the faint hope that the captain of her might enhance the merits of the special musical appropriation, on liis arrival at the favourite city ; and the mere mention of which name ; even then, caused a flush, either of pleasure or pain, to many. . The '* Liverpool," as she passed under I' h ' V ' ii f i! 272 FLYING SQUADRON. the stern, hailed her, in order to thank the captain for heaving-to, which old gentleman, being appa- rently a little deaf, was some little time before his mind grasped it as a compliment, when, being a man of action, he immediately turned the hands np, and gave three cheers ; the " Liffey's " cutter having gone for news, and after the pilfering of everything in the shape of a paper that could be laid hands on, she returned to her ship, who then made sail after the squadron, and on arriving within signal distance, imparted the exciting information : — Latest date, August 13th, " Liverpool." France and Prussia only engaged. England ready, but has not sent troops to Belgium. Two great battles on the Rhine, up to August 8th. Prussians victorious; 4,000 prisoners, and 30 guns. Loss of French army, up to August 12th 18,000. French blockading Baltic. .England had declined to join Austria-Italian League for the restora- tion of peace. Emperor in bad health ; position very insecure. Lost the Trade in 17° S. "Cambria" won the yacht race. The receipt of which caused the sup- porters of the rival countries to undergo a sensation of joy and sorrow, with a general feeling of wonder to think that the legions of La Belle France had really been worsted, and that the Fates had . apparently ordained that the career of the acknowledged leader T HOMEWAED BOUND. 273 of Europe for nearly twenty years, was rapidly di'aw- ing to a close. Shortly after noon, a large clipper- ship was seen passing rapidly on her way; and as she went by, made the signal : — " ' Arichat,' " thirty-six days out from London to Shanghai," which, being nine days later, the " Liflfey " again proceeded on what looked a hopeless chase, as the " Arichat," then several miles on her way, made the signal :—" Wish you a pleasant voyage," to which the Admiral replied : — " I wish to speak with " you," which was quite another affair. However, she very civilly stopped, and we began to think that the British ocean carriers of merchandize were vastly improved in their exchange of civilities, and infinitely superior to our transatlantic contemporaries, whose gauclieness on the high seas is proverbial ; and until the return of the chaser the squadron hove-to, and as the " Liffey " came up, she made the signal : — " No change in our position. French have retreated " from Metz — have quitted Moselle River," and the newspapers which she brought were dispersed round, and at four o'clock, we again stood on our course ; the following day (30th), in 22° S., we got the' S,E. Trade, and in the afternoon, " Liffey " was sent on into Bahia to get the stock, etc., r ady, so she made all sail, and was soon well a-head ; early on L L PUi, 1 274 FLYING SQUADRON. the following Sunday, " Endymion " dropped a boy overboard, who was saved by Mr. Lewis T. Jones, sub- lieutenant, jumping after him from the fore-bridge, much to that gentleman's credit, and the advantage of the boy, as swimming was not one of his accom- plishments, and as we hauled in towards land, the wind g'-adually went to the eastward, and within two hundred miles of the coast was blowing fresh from the north-eastward. At 11 a.m., on Thursday, October 6th, observed the land of Brazil a-head, and on closing the anchor- age, " Liffey " telegraphed to the Admiral : — *' Emperor capitulated, with army. France, Republic." And thus ended the first ace of the great war. With what future influence on our country, time alone must show ; but we confidently say — " Thank goodness for ** the ditch !" and between five and six o'clock, the squadron anchored, " Liverpool" exchanging the cus- tomary salute with the country, and the Brazilian Commodore, in the "Bahiana;" soon after anchoring, there was a rumour, almost too terrible for credence, and, like other rumours of great calamities, apparently before any possible means of, arrival : the loss of H.M.S. •' Captain." In the evening there was the most ter- rible storm of thunder and forked lightning almost ever known at Bahia, as, for about three hours, the HOMEWARD BOUND. 275 night was turned into an almost perpetual blaze of fire. Friday, October 7tli. — We must quote the log of the *' Liverpool " to recount a tragedy that happened on board that ship, and which, once seen, sufficeth a life- time: — 4.5. a.m., departed this life, Mayeda, Naval Cadet, Japanese student, having at 3.45 a.m. com- mitted suicide in the Japanese fashion. When he joined the ship he was full of life and fun, and com- mencei-i rapidly to pick up the English language, which he was incessantly working at, when suddenly the course of progress appeared to stop, and for the two or three previous months a constant depression appeared to hang over him, his fellow-countryman in the " Phoebe" having tried to rally him, but without avail. Some days before he destroyed himself, his messmates became rather afraid of an impending catastrophe, more espe- cially as he had taken his knife (a weapon about eighteen inches long) out and cleaned it, and nobody knew what the Japanese custom was, as regards theSr code of honour in despatching a foreigner or two :6rst, and a general feeling of insecurity was experienced in the ward-toom ; on the eventful night the naval in- structor, going into the ward-room shortly after twelve o'clock, found the Japanese sitting there, and told him to go to bed, to which he got a negative answer, unti^ i'i ■%l igi m 276 FLYING SQUADBON. he was told that he must ; when he turned into his hammock on the maindeck, and the naval in- structor gave the sentry at the ward-room door orders to keep an eye on Mr. Mayeda if he came down during the night ; so the midshipman of the middle watch, between three and half-past, coming out of the ward- room door, met the Japanese going in, and asked him why he did not turn in, to which he got no answer, and proceeded on his way until the sentry outside the door informed him that he had orders not to allow Mr. Mayeda in the ward-room; so he turned back, and, accompanied by the sentry, went into the after-part of the ward-room with a lantern, where they found him standing alongside his portmanteau, and were in the act of trying to persuade him to turn in, when, in the twinkling of an eye, he snatched up his knife, which must have been lying on the top of the portmanteau, and plunged it into his stomach with sufficient force to strike the spine ; and such was the effect of horror on the midshipman and sentry, that with one accord they turned and fled with so great precipitation, that it has never been satisfactorily decided whether the door or window was the portal of egress. The sentry on the main-deck, thinking the midshipman was mad, tried to catch him, but in vain ; and sufficient reason was just left, to allow him to reach the officer of the i HOMEWARD BOUND. 277 watch, and convey to him the impression that some direful tragedy was being enacted in the ward-room, who immediately rushed down, and found the Japanese insensible and lying over his portmanteau, with two stabs in the throat, for which he was immediately attended by the doctors ; and it was not for some minutes, and then quite by accident, that it was discovered he had disembowelled himself; and, after asking, in Japanese, for a glass of water, which caused him to writhe in agony, he died without a struggle, and was buried in the Protestant Cemetery by Mr. Caley, the English Chaplain, for whose kindness we are eminently grateful. In the afternoon the " Satellite" got her rudder back from the dockyard, where it had been repaired, and then the squadron prepared for a daylight start ; a steamer arrived during the' night, which was discovered to be British by the familiar sound of " Steady, starboard," and was boarded by the officer of the guard, who brought the confirma- tion of the news of the frightful disaster in Biscay's Bay, which paralyzed every one with horror as he thought of relations, friends, and old messmates hurried in a moment from life and hope into tho incomprehensibility of eternity, engulphed in the fury of a Southern gale. :u i I 278 FLYING SQUADRON. *' What can they aay in England, when electric spark has told Of breaking day off Spain's great cape, disclosing night's unutterable woe ? Five hundred turned to lifeless clay, proud in their ocean majesty the eve before, With nought but their Creator's eyes and floating spars to tell Of that night's agony, inconceivable— endured in jaws of hell, Baffling in death's struggle with the mighty waves ; and then despairing wail, Which told of other human beings engulphed in ocean, lashed to fury by a Southern gale ; What can they say in England, save * God's holy will be done !' " The next morning, Sunday, October 9th, after having visited sixteen places, made the ninth repeti- tion of the squadron either anchoring or weigh- ing on the Sabbath. A Httle after 9 a.m. weighed under steam, and proceeded to the east- ward to make an ofl&ng of the land, until the following forenoon, when sail was made to a hght breeze from the E.S.E., which made it extremely- doubtful as to whether the squadron would be able to weather the South American continent, which feat, looking very poorly on the afternoon of the 12th, with the land near Pernambuco nearly a-head, was safely accomplished, chie% owing to the friendly assistance rendered by the wind drawing to the south- ward; and, as soon as the land was cleared, the S.E. Trade reappeared, and carried us, on the 16th, in sight, ten miles to the westward of St. Paul Bocks ; JIOMEWAUD BOUND. 279 and the same evening, just before dark, a barque was reported from the masthead ; and, half-an-hour after- wards, a steamer was seen close a-head, which caused considerable excitement for news, as, for several days, the squadron had been spread, on the chance of inter- cepting the outward-bound Pacific mail, whose track we were known to be on. Guns were fired, blue lights burnt, boats lowered, and all possible manifes- tations made, in order to convey to the captain of the s.aid steamer the strong wish of the squadron to detain his vessel, whicb did not appear probable at first; but turned out that the said gentleman, not putting too mucb faith in Her Majesty's war vessel, and witli a strong idea that he had fallen into the meshes of the Flying Squadron, declined stopping with the bow- lights of six rampant ships in front of him'; and it was not until he obtained a good view of the six stern lights that he considered himself safe, and then must have imagined himself about to be made a prize, by the number of boats making violently towards liim, when he was discovered to be the much-sought-after Pacific steamer *' Valdivia," Captain Sivell, who, probably, highly disapproving of being detained, certainly did not show it, and was particularly kind in distributing his papers amongst the various ships, by means of which the news of the fall of Strasbourg and Toul was received ; also the evidence of the -#*& . ; l!i 280 FLYTNO SQUADRON. \0 survivors of the ill-fated " Captain," telling of tl heroic death that closed the gallant career of Captain Burgoyne — a glory to his country, and an honour to the world. On the 17th lost the S.E. Trade, in 3° 60' N. 29*00 "W., and had light and variable winds from the southward, with hghtning and torrents of rain. On the morning of the 19th, it falling almost calm, steam was got up for five knots by " Liverpool," " LifFey," and " Satellite," to tow the other three through light and variable winds and a continuous downfall of water, which lasted until the morning of the 21st, when a strong S.W, Monsoon sprang up, aad the ships cast off ; and shortly afti^r noon, as the leading ship of the weather-line 'ivas ■ lundering up to a small and very smart little h^i^ that was running the same way, when, just as he was expecting to be shaved by the monster running under a press of sail, a sudden and very heavy squall struck the squadron, carrying away stunsails and royals, and making short work of the last of the canvas; and how our little friend must have chuckled as he shook the wind out of his sails and lowered the topsails, without splitting a yarn ; and one ship's lower stunsail must, we think, have gone on board him, where it will, probably, be used for a new suit of sails. In the evening we got the N.E. Trade, in 12° 30' N. 28° 40' W. ; and the next HOMEWARD BOUND. 281 tho N. the On )eam day it went round to the eastward, and sometimes to the southward of east, with occasional heavy squalls, lightning, and a good deal of rain; weather very hot and oppressive; air 79°, and water 80°, which, considering we were on the verge of getting out of the ii orthern Tropic, and the sun was rapidly closing his apex in the" Southern one, it was consi- dered a tolerably good temperature ; and, on the 26th, in 23° N., every vestige of a Trade had dis- appeared, and the wind gone round to the south- eastward, with much lightning; and the same night it became very variable, veering between E.S.E. and South, with a great deal of rain, thunder, and light- ning, gradually settling into fine weather and a light south-easterly breeze, which lasted until the next night only, when more lightning and heavy rain made their appearance ; and the following morning (28th), at 3 a.m., the wind shifted suddenly to the northward and then back to light southerly winds, with damp oppressive air and heavy rain squalls, until the night of the 31st, when it went suddenly to the westward, causing much anxiety and inconvenience to those in authority, with lightning and heavy squalls of wind and rain, and then back again to S.W., when it became almost a calm until the following day (Nov. 1st), when a light breeze again sprang up from the M M r i! ". 282 ■PMING SQUADROiSr. N.B., and the heavy, oppressive atmosphere imme- diately disappeared; on the morning of the 3rd, the breeze again faihng, three of the squadron had to light their fires, revolve their screws, and tow the remainder along towards the much- wished-for haven, until the next morning, when a light breeze appeared from the northward, and fires were let out, and screws hoisted, we hoped and trusted, for the last time, though it appeared questionable, the wind performing strange evolutions, going rapidly to the southward, then flying back to no^cJi, blowing half a gale in squalls, and then, as if its anger had died out, falling calm, with a great deal of lightning, and weeping bitterly, after which it sprang up again from the S.W., with thunder, light- ning, and heavy rain, and a rapidly falling glass, when it again fell calm, and the bouids of human endurance were found to have a limit, sinister glances being directed towards suspected Jonahs, the gentleman under surveillance, we fancy, usually being the parson ; but happily for the suspected gentleman, a breeze was seen coming down from the northward, and the glass rising rapidly. At half-past ten, on the night of the 9th J the wind being to the eastward of north, the squadron wore ; and when the inhabitants of the six vessels, who, the moment before ; were congratulating HOMEWARD BOUND. 283 themselves on the near approach of their native land, found themselves progressing at the ra'e of six or seven knots in precisely the opposite direction, groans, sighs, imprecations of all sorts were distinctly audible, and when it settled into a north-easterly gale, it became exceedingly dangerous to exchango com- pliments with your hitherto well-tried friend, for fear of being consigned to a supposed peculiarly warm atmosphere. At 3.15, on the morning of the 11th, having arrived sufficiently close to the American continent, the squadron again wore and stood in the direction of their native land, and on the following day, were bowling along eleven and twelve knots, with light hearts and great joy, that the end was, humanly speaking, so close. Fresh galea, furthering the pro- gress of the squadron, wh'ch at one time showed a decided inclination of again going to the eastward, and anxious eyes were glued to refractory vanes, which, at one time, pointed to N.N.E., and then, as though content with previously administered agony, slowly, and almost unwillingly, revolved back towards N.W., and then the fact became apparent that the West Country lasbies had at last got hold of the tow-rope, with no intenlion of letting it go again ; and in such a hurry were they, that at 2 a.m. of ^ r 284 FLYING SQUADRON. the morximg of Sunday, the 13 th, a very heavy squall struck the squadr'^n, which had the effect of putting the upper deck of one frigate under water, and causing the dwellers therein for some moments, to fear that she was either going to Uff remain in that position, or else complete the revolu- tion; but, happily, being constructed of wood, and with a low centre of gravity, she slowly righted, to the intense relief of those on board, and at daylight the following morning, one of the flock being dis- covered nrany miles astern, " Liffey " informed the Admiral that " Phoebe " had lost her foreyard ; also during the squall ; and accordingly the squadron had to accommodate their pace to the cripple until Monday morning at seven o'clock, when the yard reappeared in its proper place, and away we wont with a fresh north-westerly breeze until the cry of " Land on the weather bow, sir !" caused hearts to jump for joy, and a general rushing up many ladders, for those weary of the monotonous horizon, to feast thbir eyes on the rugged cUffs of Cornwall's coast, and be thankful to the Giver of All Things for a safe return to the land they love so well, and reap the reward of their labours, in having accomplished the feat of passing ovor 6?/^'^'> miles of ocean in 381 sea days out of 514, siiitje they were in the same latitude and longitude; the sole ^mmm^ PLYMOUTH SOUND. 285 difference being outward bound ; visiting sixteen places, with an average stoppage of eight days in each, making a total of nearly thirteen months at sea (on sixty-three days of which it blew a gale) out of nearly seventeen months since leaving the old country. And passing the bull's-eyes of the Lizard in the first watch; the squadron hauled to the wind, and stood off and on between the Eddy stone and the land until dayhght, shortly before which the signal was made to reef mainsails, bend sheet cables, and get up steam full speed. And when the day broke, the squadron stood in towards Plymouth, and the sun rose on one of the lovehest days of which our country can boast when they are fine, and in the forenoon of which the whole were safely anchored in Plymouth Sound. And thus, practically, ended the cruise of the Flying Squadron of 1869, the grand /na/e being a dinner in Willis's Rooms on December 3rd, where forty-four of the officers, with the Admiral as President, met once more at a convivial ga,thdring, and then parted, probably for ever, as colleagues in a circumnavigating expedition. 286 PLYING SQUADRON. i il\ I m O a ^2 -1 i •a I £'3.3 - fs as *3 a S .2 I* S.SS g « Pi ►> bo voo d O "-I 1-1 ■«»!tW«S •BipqAreqo •IM9J *«60xraa "^II^OB •iCesn •nopofptia •9q8Dqa •lOOdJeAii N ffl Q b- iM fH T(< i-< OS •* >-i »0 O III II I I II III II I I I I III I I I I II I CO I I I W <* «0 ■«*l I iH rH O 1-1 I i-H '-*' I SIMM cii rH I « «S W eo !N g g g 1 g 8 8 g ® O O wi w O O O O (^ •Hlfi '"«M •H IM *M «H aled, aled, force aled. "3 O "a B a 55^5 tf OS « e« 4) §§|§ Close Close Close Close Calm 66o o» lo t- locci-^-* e>«ooJeaWrHe(s r-INi-4*l r-(r-(i— lrHi-ie w oioioiooo'ooia'ooioQQO'aoo «i»ir)0»oe<500i-iiMiM*(obi>.t-.«otO'^«o l88§ I C4 lO oil oq rt 1-H 800p3>«iOUSiOiOO©OQ>0©>00 r-iO'*!3wOi-je(5eoiNOOO''Nwop oJ'*'a US W OO t-i -^ r-l iH i-l « oo W r-l .9 O'OOOSC'OO'OOOOOOQO «J-^_-*p^'5O>-Hr-i>oe0»0Or-jifie*5 » n .9 OUSUSOlOOOpiOQOOlOOQQ M>-o«cosio«ot>io«o I lO o o o M 1-1 e<5 ■* ■ 00 CO U5 N i-l » p p ■* 1-1 r-H p ( i-im"**rHNeCtOpOSM'»tlO a ■« S pH ^ CO ^ wmm 999 ■n J m ! 288 o I o o I I FLYING SQITADRON. ^ I i I It I ■■fcMsafe4w>iaWttiM.i o •< .•2SS §g ffi -H MM CO ^ O 2 S H s 2*fi s I ee !-i lo i-H ■<*< us i-Je0i-(t.lcr5b^«O»0S!O •«»<<» lO us p CIS ^ OS »a o us •* -* IN OuspusQQQususousus 1— IClSINU50>5-*COrHlO'— 'l-H -*INU5©aaocooit>->eo'i--l 1—1 r-lp-li-l Z. '-' O J2i "O US © o o US u: >a Q O us © lo o uj i-j^© o»0'*ci5'X'Oi-ic<©i-;eisrH C?oiiN >-Ho6-i *l IN rH f-l IN i-l •-• iH«e©'-iiNcis-*'a f-l rH l-H r- 1 PH t-* .>* US 00 _. IN us . „ FLYING SQUADRON. 289 03 t^ «> 1— 1 ao I-H 10 o >0 "5 o rH eo ■* 1-1 IN aiao to Ot^ 1140 1515 8 05 Not drilling 10.55 US C >0 O WJ N O '-J OS r-J 00 t» lO r-l t» fH a 0) a) ^* . B o d o. ^ O 00 o I I Hi I* g §8 8 8 ||S8 o o Q o -1) ^—o.o OS o> i-i o a (N *q CO IN IN ■* touscqio-* 1-1 t~»HKsio CO •« O US ■* eo I-H 00 IN -"tf t- «e •*( us CO t^ t^ USUSCOOUSO OSOOOUS us O us IN 5> us us O IN ■«*< O i-( ^ I-l •»(< us rH I-l O ■* ^ 0> t- 00 t- i-H OS OOOSCOOS'* IN « iH C^ O^ fH i-t rH i-l iH rH IN t-IN t--»*< O US ■* IN CO O «S US O US US fH iH O CO l> CO CIS IN (N IN *l O O O O US US CO ■* CO (N 'fS IN tjJ T)! CO US -^ eo' USlOUSUSQ O USO«<|US OCOOOiq CO INUSININ CO ■*■«*' ■>1H CO ai CIS ■'«■ CO us' 2® CO •«♦< oooo iH ■* O O CO CO CO 00 USUSOOUSO POQOUS Q Q'OOUS us CO iH o<) CO o weooeoiN ^ o O co r-j oJ"i*!TiIo»'«iius" •^cO'»fii>eo o> us-^Ttius ba .g us --S us q-^iN t^ 00*0 OS o s QUSOOOOO •^ us iH 1-J ■»!< O id o us t^ t^ i> S"SQQP US ooo CO US ■*•«** x** o N us CO ■ idl^co'' fill S us us Q us us •«tt us OS CO CO .OS l> ijJ us -.jJ CO •* O us us o us rl O •<** IN •oooo W IN IN -^ ^CO^COCO CO COUSCOCO coco lo us us o •* e^i us Tjj CO CO t^ US fH *| CO •>*< us CO l>. CO OS O iH IN COtHUSCO iH Sq CO tH us CO I 00 es OS IH iH OS IN fH M CO O CO o '^ ***<"* "* 1 1- co IN iri CO 00 "O IN O _, OS --^ IN o -' „ -" M S MeJoo a g bo*s N N r •i„^.\,jiAmv m IP i 290 FLYING SQUADRON. SPARS OABBIED AWAY. Ship. Liverpool Phoebe ... Endymion Liffey..-'- 3 6 1 3 I I Top. 6 6 4 1 T-gal. 2 2 1 3 7 2 7 8 i 18 19 16 21 NUMBER OP MEN DIED, FALLEN OVERBOARD, KILLED FROM PAiLiNQ ALOFT, INVALIDED, AND LEFT IN HOSPITAL. Shlpa. Nnmtwr of men died from disease, etc Number of men fallen OTOboard. Number of men killed from fall- ing from doft. Number of men invaUded or left in hospital. TOtajU Number diMlof QoDgvmp- tion. TotaL Number MTed. Total. Number of those Consump- tion. Liverpool Phoebe ... Endymion LiflEey ... 2 2 4 4 2 2 1 3* 3 4 6 4 2 6 3 1 3 7 8 11 10 3 2 6 Total ... 12 8 16 10 4 36 11 Inflammation of lungs. »t;atWii t l