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Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est fiimA A partir da Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant la nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 i SCENES OP ^MODERN TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE. ' -«<. kJMA.^iC i ( V! f I i '- 3 r; 2 ?] 2 5 D'/ o Aj^IlD V ' ^BTiE:B^f^"ff:iii. y t^/ ?*mv.^^^^^%^i:^??.-^ wi^" IM.-hMSllKI) V\ THOMAS NIM.SON ' !J 1 SCENES OF MODERN TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE. •• The moving accidents of field and flood."— Shakebpeabi EDINBURGH: PUBLISHED BY THOMAS NELSON MDCCCXLIV. ^/ S 2, ? '-I k r ■■ .1 . PREFACE. The present volume has, it is believed, almost a hovel character. Its object is to furnish a large amount of instructive and interesting iiformation, collected from the works of upwards of forty of the most distinguished travellers of modern times. To the selection of the extracts particular attention has been paid, and the editor has confined himself entirely to the works of those whose descrip- tive talents are not only great, but whose fidelity and truthfulness are undoubted. The work com- prises sketches from all parts of the world — em- bracing not only some of the most striking features of European interest, but likewise conducting the reader to many of the most remarkable remains of antiquity in Eastern countries. Narratives of personal adventure will likewise be found in the succeeding pages. The volume is now offered to the public, in S3555 VI PR K FACE. the liopc that it will form ;vn acceptable work for the perusal of all who feel interested in its contents, hut especially of the young, who will find in it much that is calculated to enlarge their ideas and improre tlu ir minds. i i it ' t CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ASCENTS OP MOUNTAINS. Ascent of the Peter Botte Moun- tain .... I Ascent of Ararat , , 7 Visit to Mount Sinai , 16 Lion Hunting in South Africa 74 A Tiger Hunt on Elephants 79 Escane from a Tiger . 84 A Lion r' mt ... 80 Capture of a Cayman . . yi CHAPTER IV. CHAPTER H. RUINED CITIES. Ruins of Dalbec ThelMJS— Luxor Ruins of Petra Pompeii VOLCANOES AND EAUTIIyUAKKS. Earthqualie at Messina 95 Earthqualcfi at Aleppo . ]oo Mount Vesuvius . . 101 24 Mount Etna . , . iu5 32 Ascent of Mount Hecla . 108 . • 42 Descent into the Crater of a Vol. . . 46 cano in St. Eustatia . 112 A Visit to Pompeii, and an Ascent The Great Earthqualie at Lisbon 113 to the Summit of Vesuvius 63 The Volcano at Hawaii . 123 CHAPTER HL CHAPTER V. ADTENTUEES WITH WILD ANIMALS. PERSONAL ADVENTIRES. Spanish Bull Fight A Man and Tiger Combat 60 Adventure on the Columbia River 12.'J 72 The Picard Family . , 136 ii CONTENTS. The Runaway . . . 149 The Lost One ... 155 A Ride in the Pampas . 161 An American Forest on Fire 168 A Night of Imminent Peril 1 73 A Burning Prairie . . 178 Escape of Lieutenant Boys from a French Prison , . 180 CHAPTER VI. CHAPTER VIII. HOLT LXSD, &C. Scenery around Jerusalem 253 Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives .... 258 Church of the Holy Sepulchre 261 Mount Sinai . . 262 Storm on Mount Lebanon 265 PHENOMENA OP NATURE. CHAPTER IX. The Labyrinth of Crete . 193 Sulphur Mountain . . 197 The Geysers ... 201 Jetting Pool in the Crater of Krabla, Iceland . . 204 The Mammoth Cave of Kcn- tucivy . . . 206 The Petrified Cascade of Pam- bouk Kalesi . . 215 American Hurricane , 218 Description of a Tropical Storm 222 Earthquake at Zante . 223 HISTORIC SCENKS. Rome . • . . 26S Moscow . . . 272 Goa . . . . 282 Scott's Visit to the Field of Waterloo . . .286 CHAPTER X. WORKS OP ART. CHAPTER Vn. EASTERN SCENERY AND ADVENTURE. Visit to the Seraglio . 228 Visit to a Turkish Mosque 210 March of a Caravan . . 343 Pa«age of the Great Desert 247 The Pyramids ... 293 Ruins of Athens . , 298 Mount Pentelicus . . 305 Ruins of Mycenae . 307 An Egyptian Tomb . 308 Tombs at Siout . . .311 Hindoo Temples . . 314 Visit to the Salt Mines of Hall 328 Iron Mine in Sweden . . 334 Pass of the Simplon . . 337 1 SCENES OF MODERN TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE. CHAPTER I. ASCENTS OF MOUNTAINS. What lonely magnificence stretches around ! Each sight how sublime ! and how awful each sound f All hushed and serene, as a region of dreams. The mountains repose in the roar of the streams ; Their glens of black umbrage by cataracts riven. But calm their blue tops in the beauty of heaven. VViLsoy. ASCENT OF THE PETER BOTTE MOUNTAIN. Some of the mountains of the Mauritius are between two and three thousand feet in height, and are covered with snow during a great part of the year. Among them are several that assume the most singular and fantastic shapes ; but the most extraordinary in appear- ance is that which bears the name of Peter Botte. The top of this mountain has been usually regarded as quite inaccessible, notwithstanding the boast of the Frenchman about forty years ago, that he had succeeded in reaching it. The aibCmpt has also been several times made by our ovm countrymen since the island became a British possession, but always till now, in vain. The exploit, however, has been at length accomplished in the course of 1831. The account of its successful performance is given in a letter 1) AscKNT or THK rp.rru n >Trr. moiniain. ( ! from onp of thn n-iHioi^ in y IMr. Hjir- row. " 1*'roni most poinN of vi(^\\ fho luonnlnin Roin\on<, liio\ilonant lu^pjnd, U.N., and Liontonant Taylor, tho writer o[ (ho lot lor. sot ont on tho h«»ld and porilons advonhnv. " All onr preparations hoing mado," says tho narrativo. '* wo startotl, and a moro ]>iotnros(pu> lino of maivh I havo sohlom soon. ()nr van was oom- posod of ahont fiftooys, in ovory variety of oostnn\o, tosjothor >Nith a fow nognuvs to carry our food, dry clothos, v'^-o. Onr ]>ath lay up a very steej> ravine, t'onned hy tho rains in the wet seas(Ui, which having" loosened all the stones, made it any thing- hnt pleasant ; th*>se holow were ohligod t(> keep a hright look-out for tnmhling- rocks, and one of these missed lvep}>el and myself hy a miracle." ,\K»ng this path which was not a foot hroad, they picked their way for ahont four hundred yards, tho i\ogn>os keeping their fot^tini^ from under their loads, hy catcliine hold as thov rnH'tvdoil of the shruhs ahovc them. We must allow Lioutonant Taylor to coutinuo the story iu his onmi words : — t ARCKNT OK TIIIi". I'l/rKR noTTR MOtiNTAFN. ant jvn«l OIU- •iol V »>ur but rij;ht lissod tlioy tho s, by ibovc tinuo ** On riHing fo fb« BbonMcr, u vi«»w burst upon un which h(>a my (b'scriptivo poworH. Wo stood on ft IilU«^ narrow hMlgo or urvk of hind, nhout twenty yjinls in h'n^:lh. On tho Bido whi
  • lve feet high, and reached, as you may ])erct>ivt*, al)out hall-way w]} a face of perjiendicular rock. 'J'he foot which was spiked, rested on u bdgo, with bandy tbn-o inches on each side. A grapnei-lino liad bc(Mi also lel't last yi'ar, but was not used. A negro of Jiloyd's clamluTcd from tho top (d' iho ladder by tho cleft in the face of tho rock, not trusting his weight to tho old and rotten lino. lie curried a small cord round Imh middle, and it was fearful to bco tlu! (!ool steady way in which ho climbed, whore a single loose stono or false hold must have sent him down to the abyss; however, bo fearlessly scrambled away till at length wo beard bini halloo from under the neck, *all right!' These negroes use their feet exactly liko monkeys, grasping with them every projecticm almost as firmly as with their hands. Tho lino carried up bo mad(! fast above, and np it wo nil four * shinned* in succession. It was, joking apart, awful work. In sovend places tho ridge ran to an edge not a foot broad, and I could, us I hold on, half-sitting, luilf-knoding across the ridge, have kicked my right shoe down to the plain on one aide, uud I i h 4 ASCENT OF THE PETER BOTTE MOUNTAIN. my left into the bottom of the ravine on the other. The only thing which surprised me was my own steadi- ness and freedom from all giddiness. I had been nervous in mounting the ravine in the morning, but gradually I got so excited and determined to succeed, that I could look down that dizzy height without the smallest sensa- tion of swimming in the head ; nevertheless I held on uncommonly hard, and felt very well satisfied when I was safe under the neck. And a more extraordinary situation I never was in. The head, which is an enor- mous mass of rock about thirty-five feet in height, overhangs its base many feet on every side. A ledge of tolerably level rock runs round three sides of the base, about six feet in width, bounded every where by the abrupt edge of the precipice, except in the spot where it is joined by the ridge up which we climbed. In one spot the head, though overhanging its base several feet, reaches only perpendicularly over the edge of the precipice ; and, most fortunately, it was at the very spot where we mounted. Here it was that we reckoned on getting up ; a communication being established with the shoulder by a double line of ropes, we proceeded to get up the necessary materiel, — Lloyd's portable ladder, additional coils of rope, crow-bars, &c. But now the question, and a puzzler too, was how to get the ladder up against the rock. Lloyd had prepared some iron arrows, thongs to fire over ; and, having got up a gun, he made a line fast round his body, which we all held on, and going over the edge of the precipice on the opposite side, he leaned back against the line, and fired over the least projecting part : had the line broken he would have fallen eighteen hundred feet. Twice this failed, and tlien he had recourse to a large stone with a lead line, which swung diagonally, and seemed to be a feasible plan: several times he made beautiful heaves, but the provoking line would not catch, and away went the stone far down below ; till at length iEolus, pleased, I suppose, with his perseverance, gave such a shift of wind for ASCENT OF THE PETER BOTTE MOUNTAIN. I about one minute, and over went the stone, and was eagerly seized on the opposite side. Hurra, my lads, * steady 's the word !* " Three lengths of the ladder were put together on the ledge ; a large line was attached to the one which was over the head, and carefully d'*awn up ; and finally, a two inch rope, to the extremity of which was lashed the top of our ladder, then lowered it gently over the precipice till it hung perpendicularly, and was steadied by two negroes on the ridge below. — * All right ; now hoist away!' and up went the ladder till the foot came to the edge of our ledge, where it was lashed in firmly to th'* neck. We then hauled away on the guy to steady it, and made it ast ; a line was passed over by the lead line to hold on, and up went Lloyd screeching and hallooing, and we all three scrambled after him. The Union-Jack and a boat-hook were passed up, and old England's flag waved freely and gallantly on the re- doubted Peter Botte, No sooner was it seen flying, than the Undaunted frigate saluted the harbour, and the guns of our saluting battery replied ; for though our expedition had been kept secret till we started, it was made known the morning of our ascent, and all hands were on the look-out, as we afterwards learnt. We then got a bottle of wine to the top of the rock, christen- ed it * King William's Peak,' and drunk his majesty's health, hands round the jack, and then ' Hip, hip, hip, hurrah !' ** I certainly never felt any thing like the excitement, of the moment ; even the negroes down on the shoulder took up our hurrahs, and we could hear far below, the faint shouts of the astonished inhabitants of the plain. We were determined to do nothing by halves, and ac- cordingly made preparations for sleeping under the neck, by hauling up blankets, pea-jackets, brandy, cigars, &c. Meanwhile, our dinner was preparing on the shoulder below ; and about 4 p.m. we descended our ticklish path to partake of the portable soup, prepared salmon, &c. 6 ASCENT OF THE PETER BOTTE MOUNTAIN. Our party was now increased by Dawkins and his cou- sin, a lieutenant of the Talbot, to whom we had written informing them of our hopes of success ; but their heads would not allow them to mount to the head or the neck after dinner. As it was getting dark, I screwed up my nerves, and climbed up to our queer little nest at the top, followed by Tom Keppel and a negro, who carried some dry wood and made a fire in a cleft under the rock. Lloyd and Phillpotts soon came up, and we began to ar- range ourselves for the night, each taking a glass of brandy to begin with. I had on two pair of trousers, a shooting waistcoat, jacket, and a huge flushing jacket, over that a thick woollen sailor's cap, and two blankets, and each of us lighted a cigar as we seated ourselves to wait for the appointed hour for our signal of success. It was a glorious sight to look down from the giddy pin- nacle over the whole island, lying so calm and beautiful in the moonlight, except where the broad black sha- dows of the other mountains intercepted the light. Here and there we could see a light twinkling in the plains, or the fire of some sugar-manufactory ; but not a sound of any sort reached us except an occasional shout from the party down on the shoulder, (we four being the on- ly ones above). At length, in the direction of Port Louis, a bright flash was seen, and after a long interval the sullen boom of the evening gun. We then prepared our pre-arranged signal, and whiz went a rocket from our nest, lighting up for an instant the peaks of the hills below us, and then leaving us in darkness. We next burnt a blue light, and nothing can be conceived more beautiful than the broad glare against the overhanging rock. The wild-looking group we made in our uncouth habiliments, and the narrow ledge on which we stood, were all distinctly shown ; while many of the tropical birds frightened at our vagaries, came glancing by in the light, and then swooped away, screeching, into the gloom below ; for the gorge on our left was dark as Erebus. We burnt another blue light, and threw up two more 1 ■i ASCENT OP ARARAT. 1 I rockets, when our laboratory being exhausted, the pa- tient-looking insulted moon, had it all her ovvn way again. We now rolled ourselves up in our blankets, and, having lashed Phillpotts, who is a determined sleep- walker, to Keppel's leg, we tried to sleep ; but it blew strong before the morning, and was very cold. We drank all our brandy, and kept lucking in the blankets the whole night without success. At day-break, we rose, stiff, cold, and hungry ; and I shall conclude brief- ly by saying, that after about four or five hours hard work, we got a hole mined in the rock, and sank the foot of our twelve foot ladder deep in this, lashing a water-barrel, as a land mark, at the top : and above all, a long staff, with the union-jack flying. We then, in turn, mounted to the top of the ladder to take a last look at a view such as we might never see again ; and, bidding adieu to the scene of our trial and triumph, descended the ladder to the neck, and casting off the guys and haul- ing lines, cut off all communication with the top." Lieutenant Taylor and his friends effected their de- scent in perfect safety. The warm congratulations of their countrymen greeted them on their return from what our readers will probably agree with us in regard- ing as one of the most brilliant enterprises of this sort which has ever been recorded. ASCENT OF ARARAT.* The mountain of Ararat, situated in the north-eastern corner of Lesser Asia, in the province of Armenia, is re- markable as being the spot on which the ark of Noah rested during the subsidence of the flood. It is a moun- tain extraordinary for its magnitude, being, at its highest point, 17,260 feet above the level of the sea — an eleva- tion considerably higher than that of Mont Blanc. It • From Chambers' JoumaL If 8 ASCENT OF ARARAT. stands nearly midway betwixt the southern extremities of the Black and the Caspian seas, in 39° 42' of north latitude, and 44° 30' of east longitude. Though placed close on the line of the immense chain of Taurus, which extends from the eastern shores of the Black Sea far in- to the centre of Asia, Mount Ararat stands in a measure alone, and has a very grand appearance, the other hills in the neighbourhood being too insignificant in size to hide its proportions or impair the majesty of its aspect. This great mountain is divided into two heads, respec- tively named the Great and Little Ararat, which form distinct cones, separated from each other by a wide chasm or glen. The two cones are about twelve thou- sand yards apart at their summits. The peak of the Great Ararat is perpetually covered with snow, but the Lesser Ararat, which is nearly four thousand feet lower, is clear of snow in summer. The plain in which Ararat stands is watered by the Araxes (the Raksi of the na- tives), and at no great distance stands the large and po- pulous city of Kars. The people of Armenia, who have long been follow- ers of the Christian faith, regard Mount Ararat with the most intense veneration, and have many religious esta- blishments in its vicinity. They firmly believe, to a man, that the ark is still preserved on the summit of the mountain, and that, in order to preserve it, the ascent of Ararat has been prohibited to mortals, by a divine de- cree, since the time of Noah. The origin of this tradi- tionary belief, which is sanctioned by the church, and has almost become an article of Armenian faith, is said to be as follows : — A monk in former times, who was anxious to settle some doubts relative to the scriptural account of Noah, resolved for this purpose to ascend to the top of Ararat, to satisfy himself whether or not the ark was there. On the declivity of the mountain, how- ever, he had several times fallen asleep from exhaustion, and, on awaking, found himself always carried back to the very spot from which he first started. At length, ASCENT OP ARARAT. out of pity, an angel was sent to him with the informa- tion that he had entered on an impracticable task ; but, at the same time, his zeal was rewarded by a divine pre- sent of a piece of the ark. This piece is to this day preserved as the most valuable relic in the neighbouring convent of Etschmiadsin, the seat of the Patriarch, or Primate, of the church of Armenia. Numerous other traditionary stories are current re- specting failures in attempts to ascend Mount Ararat, and punishments befalling the presumptuous adventurers. Nevertheless, few persons, we believe, excepting the Armenian people, will be inclined to doubt the veracity of the Russian professor, Dr. Friedrich Parrot, who de- scribes his having ascended the mountain in the year 1829, and whose narrative of the adventure supplies the subjoined particulars. On approaching IMount Ararat from the Convent of Etschmiadsin, where he had been most hospitably enter- tained. Professor Parrot seems to have been impressed with emotions similar to those which the Holy Land never fails to call up in the minds of Christian travellers, A thunder-storm enveloped Ararat at the moment, but ** the rolling of the thunder (says the j rofessor) did not disturb me ; I enthusiastically indulged now in the con- templation of the country spread before me, the longed- for goal of my undertaking ; now in deep reflections on an ancient period, replete with the most interesting his- torical events. How could it be otherwise ? I was at the foot of Mount Ararat, the mountain of the patriarch Noah." At the Convent of St. James, and the village of Arguri, situated on the sloping base of the mountain, Professor Parrot received a kindly welcome from the hospitable priests, and there made preparations for the ascent. The difficulties of the task, he was aware, were great, as Ararat, in addition to its height, is remarkably steep. Though the priests expected no good issue to such an undertaking, they threw no obstacles in the way. " On the 12th of September 1829, at seven o'clock in 10 ASCENT OF ARARAT. i I the morning," says Dr. Parrot, " I set out on my jour- ney, accompanied by M. ScJiiemaun. We took with us one of our Cossacks and a peasant of Arguri, who was a good huntsman, and our route was first in the bottom of the valley (intermediate between the great and little cones), then up its right acclivity towards a spot where there are two small stone houses standing close to each other ; the one formerly a chapel, and the other built as a protection for a spring which is considered sacred." There is a tradition attached to this spring. The coun- try of Armenia is subject to incursions from locusts, which come in immense swarms, and in one day will lay waste whole tracts of land. These creatures can neither be dispersed nor destroyed except by one bird, which al- so visits the country in large flocks, and is an inveterate enemy to the locusts. Now, to entice this useful bird, it is necessary to fill a vessel from the spring of Ararat, and carry it to the place infested by the locusts, when the birds immediately arrive, and annihilate the pest. From the spring which possesses Ihese marvellous qualities, Parrot and his companions proceeded on their journey up the declivity of the Great Ararat. The day was very hot, and the fatigue of the ascent excessive, so much so that the Cossack was forced to return. About six o'clock in the evening, the othershad almost reached the snowy region, and stopped for the night in the clefts of the rocks, at an altitude of about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. The night was cold, and the peasant, or Jager, Schak of Arguri, who had come in his summer clothing, had to be wrapped for comfort in some sheets of blotting paper brought for drying plants. " At day- break," continues the professor, " we pursued our jour- ney towards the eastern side of the mountain, and soon reached the declivity which runs immediately from the summit of the great peak ; it consists entirely of point- ed rocky ridges coming down from above, and leaving between them ravines of considerable depth, in which the icy mantle of the summit loses itself end glaciers of ASCENT OP ARARAT. 11 great extent." Before they got round to the east side the side easiest of ascent near the summit — ^they had se- veral rocky crests or ridges to get over ; and before this was half accomplished, the Jager came to a stand still, and was left behind by Parrot and Schiemaun. These two gentlemen successfully surmounted one by one the rocky crests, by making deep holes with their ice-pole» in the glacier, until they reached the extreme upper edge of the rocky ice. They had now attained an eleva- tion equal to that of Mont Blanc, being 15,666 feet, yet the summit of Ararat lay far above them, like a smooth cone of snow. The afternoon, however, was far advanc- ed, and " to spend the few remaining hours of daylight in reaching this point, would have been worse than mad- ness, as we had not seen any rock on the summit which could have afforded us protection during the night ; be- sides which, our stock of provisions was not calculated to last so long." The adventurers were therefore com- pelled to content themselves with the thought that the summit plainly was accessible, and to return, " In de- scending," continues the narrative of Parrot, " we met with a danger we had not anticipated ; for if in the de- scent of every mountain you tread less firmly than in the going up, it is still more difficult to tread firmly, when you look down upon such a surface of ice and snow as that over which we had to travel, and where, if we slipped and fell, there was nothing to stop us but the sharp-pointed masses of stone in which the region of eternal ice loses itself. My young friend, whose courage had probably been proof against severer trials, lost his presence of mind here ; his foot slipped and he fell ; but as he was about twenty paces behind me, I had time to thrust my pole firmly into the ice, to take a sure footing in my capital snow-shoes, and, while I held the pole in my right hand, to catch him in passing with my left. My position was well chosen, but the straps which fas- tened my ice-shoes broke, and instead ot being able to stop my friend, I was carried with him in his fall. He n ASCENT OF ABAaAT. was SO fortunate as to be stopped hy some stones, but I rolled on for about 1700 feet, till I reached some frag- ments of lava, near the lower glacier. The tube of my barometer was dashed to pieces, my chronometer buret open, and every thing had fallen out of my pockets, but I escaped without severe injury. As soon as we had re- covered from our fright, we collected the most important of our effects, and continued our journey downwards." Soon afterwards they came to the Jagcr Scliak, who had lighted a lire for them, and by it they passed the night. Next day (the third since their outset) they reached the convent, but took care not to say any thing about their accident, as the good fathers most certainly would have called it a judgment from Heaven on their presumption. Having satisfied himself, however, by this trial, that the summit of Ararat was accessible. Professor Parrot was not long in making a second attempt. This also failed under very similar circumstances as the preceding. But the professor was indefatigable. He made a third attempt on the 25th of September, and on this occasion took such means as experience pointed out as most likely to obviate the difficulties which had formerly rendered his toils nugatory. Being convmced that every thing depended on passing the first night as near to the boundary line of snow as possible, in order to permit the ascent and descent of the summit in one day, he took horses^ with his party (consisting on this occasion of several peasants and soldiers) as far as the nature of the ground would allow these animals to go. The professor was thus enabled to spend the night much nearer to the line of snow than formerly. The cold was severe at their resting-place on this night, as they were nearly fourteen thousand ieet above the level of thrt sea ; but a good fire and a warm supper made the party pretty comfortable. "I had some onion-broth," says Dr. Parrot, " a dish which I would recommend to all mountain travellers in preference to meat-broth, as being extremely warm and invigorating. It was a ASCENT OF ARARAT. 13 magnificent evening, and with my eye fixed on the clear slcy, and the lofty summit which projected against it, and then again on the dark night which was gather- ing fiir })elow and aroisnd me, 1 experienced all those delightful sensations of tranquillity, love, and devotion, that silent reminiscence of the p«ast, that subdued glance into the future, which a traveller never fails to ex- perience when on lofty elevations and under pleasing cir- cumstances. At daybreak we arose, and began our journey at half-past six. We crossed the last broken declivities in half an hour, and entered the boundary of eternal snow nearly at the same place as in our preceding ascent. In consequence of changes in the temperature of the weather, the new-fallen snow, which had faci- litated our progress on our previous ascent, had melted away, and again frozen, so that, in spite of the still inconsiderable slope, we were compelled to cut steps in the ice. This very much embarrassed our advance and added greatly to our fatigue. One of the peasants had remained behind in our resting-place, as he felt unwell ; two others became exhausted in ascending the side of the glacier. They at first lay down, but soon retreated to our night-quarters. Without being disheartened by these difficulties, we proceeded, and soon reached a great cleft which marks the upper edge of the declivity of the large glacier, and at ten o'clock we arrived at the great plain of snow which marks the first break on the icy head of Ararat. At the distance of a thousand paces or so, we saw the cross which we had reared on the 19th September (second attempt), but it appeared to me so extremely small, probably on account of its black colour, that I almost doubted whether I should be able to perceive it again with an ordinary telescope from the plain of the Araxes. In the direction towards the summit, a shorter, but at the same time a steeper declivity than the one we had passed, now lay before us; and between this and the extreme summit there 14 ASCENT OF ARARAT. II appeared to be only one small hill. After a short repose, we passed the first precipice, which was the steepest of all, by hewing out steps in the rocks ; and, after this, the next elevation. But here, instead of seeing the ultimate goa' of our difficulties, immediately before us appeared a series of small hills, which even concealed the summit from our sight. This rather abated our courage, which had never yielded for a moment so long as we had all our difficulties in view, and our strengtli, exhausted by the labour of hewing the ice, seemed scarcely commensurate with the attainment of the now invisible object of our wishes. But a review of what had already been accomplished, and of that which might still remain to be done, the proximity of the series of projecting elevations, and a glance at my brave com- panions, banished my fears, and we boldly advanced. We crossed two more hills, and the cold breeze of the summit blew towards us. I stepped from behind one of the glaciers, and the extreme cone of Ararat lay distinctly before my enraptured eyes. Only one other icy plain was to be ascended, and at a quarter past three, on the 27th of September, 0. S., 1829, we stood on the summit of Mount Ararat I" It is scarcely necessary to say, that, independently of other considerations, the indurated and eternal snows, covering the summit, would have rendered futile any hopes which the Armenians of the party might entertain relative to the remains of the ark of Noah. Yet the feeling in the minds of the successful adventurers must have been one of deep gratification. The summit of Mount Ararat is a slightly convex and almost circular platform, above two hundred feet in diameter, from the edges of which there is a steep declivity on all sides, forming the silver crest of Ararat, composed of enduring ice, unbroken by a rock or stone. The view of the valleys and regions around the base of Ararat was obscured by a grey mist, and the hills in the neighbour- hood appeared like daik spots shot up through it. % I •"» TISIT TO MOUNT SINAI. 15 About thirty feet below the summit, where there was a better charce of its being seen from the valley than on the top, a cross was planted, to indicate to all who might accomplish the ascent afterwards, that others had been before them. "is •if I A RECENT VISIT TO MOUNT SINAI. By R. K. Pringle Esq. late of Edinburgh. Our party consisted of three English and one Indian gentleman, and we set sail in a little open boat for Tor, on the Arabian side f the Red Sea, about one hundred and fifty miles below Suez.* We expected to reach it the following day, and had laid in provisions and water accordingly. Our little boat was laden to the water's edge ivitli grain for the monks of Mount Sinai, in charge of which were two Greeks, who understood little of sea- manship, and our only efficient jrcvv were an Arab sailor and an Abyssinian slave. We had a deck of about six feet square, without any covering, for our party to sit, eat, and sleep on, and my Hindoostanee servant cooked for us in the fore part of the boat. The first two days our progress was retarded by calms, and we rolled about during the forenoon under a burning sun, and anchored for th'^ night within a stone's cast of the shore, the Arab having no compass, and being afraid to stand out to sea in the dark; but we were unable to land on account of the coral reefs, and had therefore to compose ourselves to sleep as we best could, wrapped in our cloaks on our narrow planks, but in this attempt we were severely dis- turbed by numerous little nameless fellow-passengers, of whoTn you happily know nothing in our own dear coun- try, but which abound in this part of the world. The third day we beat up and down, making little way, ♦ This interesting account was contained in a letter from Mr. Pringle it his mother, dated Suez, 2Uth March 1838, and was originally published iti hat excellent periodical, " Tlie Scottish Christian Herald, "'and so far as we arc aware has never been repriiUtd. IG VISIT TO MOUNT SINAI. I ' (I against a head-wind and liiL,^!! soa, and after anchoring as usual for the night, tried on the following day to get out under a strong though favoui'able breeze, but in the attempt our rotten tackle gave way, and our mainsail was blown to shivers: in this predicament the Greeks being useless from fear, and the two others hardly know- ing what to do, we were only saved from being driven on the coral rocks by the activity and coolness of an Irish gentleman in our party, who cut the ropes with hia knife, and managed to rig up a smaller sail in a few seconds. After getting clear out, however, we could make little way, from the violence of the gale and the scantiness of our rigging, but managed to anchor for the night in a place where wc could get on shore and pitch a little tent we had with us ; and fortunately we were soon followed by another Arab vessel of much larger size, and with a better crew and rigging, and which was the only one we had seen since we left Suez. Our provisions and water were by this time re- duced to a low ebb, and the whole of the neighbouring coast was an uninhabited sanrly desert, (the wilderness of Shur,) where it was impossible to get them re- plenished, the only Fjring we knew of, and that at the distance of some hours* sailing, being the supposed bitter Marali of the Bible; nor did we feel disposed to proceed farther in our crazy craft if we could help it ; we, therefore, after holding a council, determined to transfer ourselves, if possible, to the other vessel, and were fortunately able to make an arrangement with the crew to that effect. The next (fifth) day we made much better progress in our new vessel, which, though under other circumstances it might have appeared com- fortless enough, was to us a palace after the one we nad left, and we anchored for the night under a lofty range of rugged volcanic mountains. Oi new ship having a little boat attached to it, we went on shore to explore the singular scenery of the coast, but we had considerable difficulty in regaining the vessel, which was VISIT TO MOUNT SINAI. 17 we lofty ship »re to had was .'4 I lying at some distance out, the wind coming to hlow hard in shore, and after wading un to the middle to launch our boat, and pulling hard for about an hour, we were barely able to drag ourselves to it by a spar they had tlirown out attached to a long rope, just as we were be- ginning to get exhausted, and the night was closing in upon us, and for the success of this operation we were again mainly indebted to the coolness and activity of our Irish companion. On the evening of the sixth day we came to anchor at Tor, and were not sorry to i)ut our foot again on dry land. Tor is a miserable place, containing a few ruinous mud huts, and a population of some dozen of Greeks, Jews, and Arabs, who support themselves chiefly on fish, which are cauglit here in great abun- dance, and which proved a valuable addition to our stock of provisions, which was now reduced to a few coarse sea biscuits. The whole of the country round Tor is a barren sandy desert, bounded by Uie Red Sea on one side, and on the other by the bold and lofty mountains of Sinai, which form a magnificent back- ground in the distance. It is generally supposed to be the Elim of the Bible, where the Israelites in the early part of their journey ings, came upon the wells and the palm trees, and the wells and palm trees are certainly still tliere, though not exactly according in number with those mentioned in the Bible ; they are, however, the more remakable, from being the only objects to re- lieve the eye in the expanse of desert, and its being the only part of the coast, for many miles, where they are to be found. There was nothing to induce us to pro- long our stay at Tor, and we would have quitted it im- mediately after filling our water skins at the wells of Elim, had we had the means, but we had to send a day's journey into the mountains for the Bedouin Arabs, to procure camels for the jouiiicy, and on their arrival had to negotiate for a couple of days with them before coming to an arrangement, for, finding us at their mer- 10 VISIT TO MOUNT 8INAT, <*>% ^^^^y ondortvouivd n, and to nvoid attracting the cupidity of the Arabs, to travel as light as possible, but at*t(M' a long day's march on the back of ft camel, wra]i]ied in our cloaks on the soft sand, and with our saddle bags for a pillow, we had never any dif- ficulty in .sleeping s«uiud1y enough. The next day wo en- tered the UTOuntains by a pass, which in wild and sa- vage grandeur surpassed any thing I over witnesstnl ; the gorge was viM-y narrow, and the rocks towered above us on cither side to an immense luight, with a rugged ser- rated o\itline, resembling sonu^ parts of the Alps, or tho Pass of (ilcncoe in the Highlands, but utterly destitute of vegetation, and broken at every turn, in an endless variety of fantastic shapes, with enormous blocks of granite, rolled and tumbled over each other in rude con- fusion at the bottom, as if by the joint action of fire and water, and every here and there lateral defiles of a like wild and ruggct entered this pass long before we came upon a small strean\ of water, losing itself in tho sand of the desert, but gradually increasing in size as we followed it vp its course till it became a tine clear Awr«, tumbling over tho rocks, which was most refivshing both to the eye and the palate, being the first running water we had seen since we left tho hanks of the Nile. The wliolo of this day's mai*ch was occupied in ascending tho pass, 1 m VISIT TO MOITNT RINAT. 10 :s of con- and like lotra- tiins. upon the owed )li ng the we lu>lo pass, wliioh wna nrvoro work for iho rnmolfl, (va tho path wnt in iiiMfiy pl)icr« vory rou^h and rocky; initio, and tiiat of oiH' of my coinpanion'M, broke down nndrr it, und wo ]m«l to h'f'vo th(Mn to their ffito, ami prorccd Mio hcst way W(» conhl on foot, till, after a laltorionH wiilk of pome honrs, we fell in with Bome wanderinu; HecloninH, who snpplied iih with frenh eamels. We encamped for the nip^ht on an elevatiMl upot near tlu> lic/id of tho p.'isM, where we fonnd the ro(dy with a gravelly holtoni and no verdure, hnt thinly Hcattore«l over with plants of wild thyme, and various kinds of .stunted .shruhs, m(>st of them emitting a 8W0(>t smell which perfunjed tho whole air ; and wo oecaHionally mot with wandering lledouins, feeding their goats and sheep, from whom wo somotimes got a supply of goat milk, which wa.«« very acceptahlo. This is tho Desert of Sin, tho scene of much of tho Hojourning of tho children of Isracd ; and where Moses went to leed tho Hocks of his father-in-law, the priest of Midian, when the Lord appeared to him in tho hurning hush. Wo had now, ahead of us, the central range of Sinai, towering aloft in hold and craggy pinnacles ""^^ after leaving tho open valley and winding again for some hours up a steep and rugged j>ass hotwcon two lofty mountains, wo came out upon a circular ])lain of some extent, with shruhs growing upon it as in Iho valley, and at tho further extremity of thi.s, rose, in wild sublimity and grandeur with two pinnacles at the summit, what is supposed to be tho mountain of Sinai, from whence tno law was delivered amioforo us a hill of aroliitooturo, whioli sml- (l(Mily roso abovo tho plain at sonio distunoo from tho hills of tho Anti-liihanus. Wo i>asso(l alonjy ono of tho Fidos of this hill of ruins, upon whioh risos a forost of graoofnl o tlio rninH. A hcantiful Htrcani, ovcr- llowinu; its hcause a de por- ed and savage, hetter tie still eath of not to The een ex- 1, if he lions at :onduct- rst and feet; the I THEBES — LUXOR. 37 general view of the ruins ; a lofty heap of sand and rub- bish, lying between the eastern and northern gates : cer- tainly from hence you command the ruins well. A for- est of columns, massive propylffia, lofty gates, tall obe- lisks, a noble assemblage of objects. Yet was I glad that I had first approached by the avenue of the sphinxes. We passed the entire day in these ruins, wandering about alone, as inclination led us. Detailed descriptions I cannot give. I have neither the skill nor the patience to count and to measure. I ascended a wing of the great propylon on the west, and sat there long. I crept round the colossal statues ; I seated myself on a fallen obelisk, and gazed up at the three yet standing erect amid the huge fragments of fallen granite. I sauntered slowly round every part, examining the paintings and hierogly- phics, and listening now and then, not without a smile, at our polite little cicerone, as, with the air of a conde- scending savant, he pointed to many of the symbols, saying, " this means water," and " that means land," " this stability," " that life," and " here is the name of Berenice." In reply to a quiet question, I did get the modest admission of the " on dit" We met together in the evening of this day on a mound of rubbish, to the south-west of the ruins, saw them gilded by the rich set of sun, then mounted our asses and ambled home ; passing in our path spots where the ox, and the cow, and the ram pastured, no longer venerated ; and casting a stone in anger at the barking dog, unchecked, by any fear of offending Anubis, or the demoniac Nephthe. Our next visit was to Gournou : we crossed the river, landed under a large tree of the Pharaoh fig, and again ambled away on asses, to explore more ruins. The first to which we were conducted, are those of the Memnonium. Here again, you have thick lofty walls ; a noble portico, with columns of more than eight feet in diameter; tall terminal caryatides, standing out from square pillars, in high full relief : their heads have been J 38 THEBES — LUXOR. illt I r I 01 broken off and destroyed, or removed ; near them lie the vast and shattered fragments of a huge colossus, of red granite ; and not far removed, a large though smaller figure of black polished granite, has been overthrown and broken. We passed on to a small temple of Isis, which had been left in a most perfect state, and has the appearance of being far more modern than any on either side of the river ; the roof entire, three shrines or cells, side by side, and divided by walls : in all of them the figures of Isis, both seated and standing, are of uncommon beauty. Figures of the wolf, both passant and couchant are often repeated ; there is a bark, with a cow of Isis ; a hawk, admirably done : the head-dress of Isis very elegant ; and the disposition of the colours and design in the orna- mental borderings round the walls producing a very pleasing effect. From hence our guide conducted us to some cata- combs, in the naked hill just above. Some are pas- sages, some pits ; but, in general, passages in the side of the hill. Here and there you may find a bit of the rock or clay, smoothed and painted, or bearing the mark of a thin fallen coating of composition ; but for the most part, they are quite plain. Bones, rags, and the scattered limbs of skeletons, which have been torn from their cof- fins, stripped of their grave-clothes, and robbed of the sacred scrolls placed with them in the tomb, lie in or around these " open sepulchres." We found nothing ; but surely the very rag blown to your feet is a relic ! May it not have been woven by some damsel under the shade of trees, with the song that lightens labour, twen- ty centuries ago ! or may it not have been carried with a sigh to the tiring-men of the temple by one who bought it to swathe the cold and stiffened limbs of a be- ing loved in life, and mourned in his death ? Yes, it is a relic ; and one, musing on which a warm fancy might find wherewithal to beguile a long and solitary walk. We descended to the ten^i^le of Medinet Habou ; ruin- 4 THEDES — LUXOR. 30 ;the ' red aller land had ranee f the ' side, f Isis, lauty. often lawk, gant ; oma- very cata- e pas- side of e rock rk of a t part, ittered jir cof- of the in or ihing; relic l ier the twen- id with 16 who )f a be- it is a might alk. ruin- I t cd mud hovels are scattered on a level with its roof, and, indeed, upon it. In this temple you find a large open court, surrounded with cloisters, which are supported by massive square pillars, and also by columns ; figures of deities and hieroglyphics are depicted on them ; and, upon the walls around, scenes of war and triumph are every where pourtrayed. In one of the courts of the very temple thus adorned, are the clear vestiges of a Christian place of worship. The altar and the small co- lumns which supported the nave of its small choir, poor and humble do they look in the midst of such ruins as these ; but to the Christian eye they are arrayed with glory. Here men, confessing Christ the Saviour of the world, have knelt in prayers. Who shall say that Christ was not present, dimly seen, perhaps, yet felt with secret reverence and affection.* We rode back to the Memnonium, visited some other catacombs to the northward of it, and stopped before many of those which have been converted by the poor Arabs into dwellings, to try if we could meet with a mummy in a perfect state : we were not successful. We purchased a few trifles which these men, taught by us to " ransack up the quiet grave," bring eagerly for sale, and then returned across the plain to our boat, passing and pausing before those celebrated statues so often de- scribed : they are seated on thrones looking to the east, and on the Nile. In this posture they are upwards of fifty feet in height ; and their bodies, limbs, and heads, are large, spreading, and diiproportioned. A frantic vic- tor, baflled by the secret of its strange music, bade his myrmidons drag down one of these colossal heads ; but soon after, priests rebuilt it, and renewed the juggle, to the success of which many inscriptions on the statue bear testimony. Among others, one Claudius Maximus, of the 22d legion, states that he heard the voice. It is si- lent now. These are very awful monuments ; they bear • Vide Christian Researches, by the Rev. M. Jowett. ("T" 40 THEBES — LUXOR. *i ♦ the fonn of man ; and there is a something in their very posture which touches the soul ; they sit erect, cahn ; they have 3een generation upon generation swept away, and still their stony gaze is fixed on man toiling and perishing at their feet. 'Twas late and dark ere we reached our home. The day following, we again crossed to the western bank, and rode through a narrow hot val- ley in the desert to the tomb of the kings. Your Arab catches at the head of your ass in a wild dreary looking spot, about five miles from the river, and motions you to alight. On every side of you rise low but steep hills, of the most barren appearance, covered with loose sand and crumbling stones, and you stand in a narrow bridle path, whioli seems to be the bottom of a natural ravine : you would fancy that you had lost your way j but your guide leads you a few paces forward, and you discover in the side of the hill an opening like the shaft of a mine. At the entrance you observe that the rock, which is a close-grained, but soft stone, has been cut smooth and painted. He lights your wax torch, and you pass into a long corridor ; on either side are small apartments which you stoop down to enter, and the walls of which you find covered with paintings, — scenes of life faithfully rf presertcd ; of every -day life, its pleasures and labouri ^ the instruments of its happiness and of its crimes. You turn to each other with a delight, not however unmixed with saaness, to mark how much the days of man then passed, as they do to this hour. You see the labours of agriculture — the sower, the basket, the plough, the steers ; and the artist has playfully depicted a calf skip- ping among the furrows. You have the making of bread, the cooking for a feast ; you have a flower garden, a scene of irrigation ; you see couches, sofas, chairs and arm-chairs, such as might this day adorn a drawing- room in London or Paris ^ you have vases of every form down to the common jug ; you have harps, with figures bending over them, and others seated and listening ; you have barques, with large, curious, and many- 'I THEBE»— LUXOR. 41 I coloured sails ; lastly, you have weapons of war, the sword, the dagger, the bow, the arrow, the quiver, spears, helmets, and dresses of honour. From the corridor with these lateral chambers youerter another, long and dark, leading to an empty apartment, large and lofty, and thence into a third passage, and other chambers beyond, which are gloomy, damp, and have a disagreeable smell. The colours on the walls are much faded ; but the hero of the tomb and the various deities, hieroglyphics and mysteries, are every where to be seen : some of the mysteries are of a nature to exer- cise and amuse the mind. Doubtless many important and eternal truths, distorted by tradition, lie hidden be- neath these ancient symbols ; however, the fancy treads too closely on the understanding in most minds when an attempt is made to guess our way to interpretation, which will meet and strengthen our preconceived notions and established opinions. Of course, while we remained at Luxor, we constantly, according to our bent, visited something, and happily em- ployed our time. There is a beautiful walk up the river, on the eastern bank, and at a bend there, you may run up a raised camel path, and turning, command a view which fills the mind at the moment, takes its place in the picture gaUery of the imagination, and is often afterwards sum- moned to the mind's eye. Luxor, Karnac, the ruins on the western bank, with the rocky hills behind them, the reaches of the tranquil river, the verdure of the vale, the sands of the Arabian desert, the grand colon- nade of Luxor in shadow, the back of the propylon, the pointed obelisks, and the large masses of Karnac, with the scattered groves of dates, in the light of the set- ting sun, are the noble features of this scene. i>herer^s Imagery of Foreign Travel, Church of England Magazine. If^ I 42 1 RUINS ^F PETRA. The land of Edom, the once flourishing inheritance of Esau, has long been "a desolate wilderness," (Joel iii. 19), according to prophetic denunciation. A fev^ tribes of fierce and wandering Arabs continue, by depredation and murder, to fulfil the truth of the prophecy, that ** none shall pass through it for ever," (Isaiah xxxiv. 10.) The numerous and flourishing cities with which Idumea once abounded, now lie in heaps of ruins scattered about it ; and barrenness and desolation are spread over that laind which was once famed for plenty and fertility. For the Almighty said '' Mount Seir, ... I will lay thy cities waste, and thou shalt be desolate ... I will make thee perpetual desolations, and thy cities shall not return," (Ezek. xxxv. 3, 4, 9.) Only two adventurous travellers have been known to pass through it since the memory of man, and neither of them lives to return and tell their tale ; as if to shew the truth of that word which said, " I will make Mount Seir most desolate, and cut off' from it him that passeth out, and him that re- turneth," (Ezek. xxxv. 7.) Petra was accidentally discovered by one of the un- fortunate men who penetrated into Idumea. Two par- ties of travellers, the one English, and the other French, have since visited it ; they have both returned, for nei- ther party passed through Idumea ; and both were equal- ly struck with the visible fulfilment of prophecy in the awful scene before them. The desolate city of Petra is v/ithout a single human being living near it. " The screaming of the eagles, hawksj and owls, thuc soar above the heights, seemingly annoyed at any one approaching their desolate habita- tions,'* proves how literally the predictions have been fulfilled. "The screech owl shall also rest there, and find for herself a place of rest. There shall the great ] RUINS OF PETRA. 49 • owl make her nest, and lay and hatch, and gather undei lier shadow : there shall the vultures also be gathered, every one with her mate." Excavated dwellings in the clefts of the rocks, triumphal arches, the ruins of a mag- nificent thedtre ; innumerable mausoleums, with every variety of decoration ; palaces and temples of exquisite workmanship ; colossal statues, columns, and pillars, all cut out of the solid rock, and in a state of surprising pre- servation, — are among the wonders of this desolate city. Its position is in a deep valley, surrounded by high and inaccessible mountains ; the only path leading to it, is through Bedouin Arabs, who threaten the lives of those that dare to approach *'* the strongholds of Edom." The features of the defile which leads to Petra grow more and more imposing at every step as you advance towards the desolate city : the excavations and sculpture grow more frequent, till at last it presents a continued street of tombs, beyond which the rocks, gradually approaching each other, seem all at once to clope without any outlet ; there is, however, one frightful chasm for the passage of a stream, which furnishes, as it did anciently, the only avenue to Petra on this side. It is impossible to conceive any thing more awful and sublime than such an approach ; the width is not more than just sufficient for the passage of two horsemen abreast, the sides are in all parts perpendicular, varying from about 400 to 700 feet in height, and often over- hanging to such a degree, that without their absolutely meeting, the sky is intercepted, and shut out for 100 yards togethr^r, and there is little more light than in a cavern. Very near the first entrance into this romantic pass, a bold arch is thrown across at a great height, connecting the opposite sides oA the cliff. As the traveller passes under it, its appt arance is most surpris- ing, hanging tlius above his head, betwixt two rugged masses apparently inaccessible. Following this half- sort of subterranean passage for the space of nearly two miles, the sides increasing in height, and the path con- 44 RUINS 0- I ETRA. tinually descending, while the tops of the mountains retain their former level, a gleam of strong light sudden- ly breaks in at the close of thv"? dark perspective, and opens to the view, half-seen at first through the tall, narrow opening, columns, statues, and cornices of a light and finished taste, as if fresh from the chisel, without the tints of weather or age, and executed in a stone of a pale rose colour. The position is one of the most beautiful that could be imagined for the front of a great temple ; the richness and exquisite finish of whose decorations offer a most remarkable contrast to the savage scenery"- which surrounds it. The area before the temple termi- nates to the south in a wild precipitous cliff. To the N.N.W. an infinite variety of tombs, both Arabian and Roman, appear on either side of the defile. This path conducts to the theatre, and here the ruins of the city burst on the view in their full grandeur, shut in on the opposite side by barren craggy precipices, from which numerous ravines and valleys branch out in all directions. The sides of the mountains ( Jer. xlix. 16), covered with an endless variety of excavated tombs and private dwelling, present altogeiher (say the travellers) the most singular scene we ever beheld ; and we must despaik* to give an idea of the singular effect of rocks tinted with the most extraordinary views, whose summits present us with nature in her most savage and romantic form, whilst their bases are worked out in all the symmetry and regularity of art, with colonnades, and pediments, and ranges of corridors adhering to the perpendicular surface. The stream which traverseii the city passes again into a narrow defile, along whose steep sides a sort of ex- cavated range is continued of small and mean chambers, set one above anothr?r, without much regularity, like so many pigeon-holes in the rock, with flights of steps, or narrow inclined planes leading up to them. Following the defile, the river re-appears, flowing with considerable rapidity ; but though the water is plentiful, it is with difficulty that its course can be traced, from the luxuri- A RUINS OF PETRA. 45 ex- ibers, ike 60 jps, or lowing Icrable with ixuri- ance of the shrubs that surround it and obscure every tract. Besides the oleander, which is common to all the water-courses in this country, we may recognise among the plants which choke this valley some which are pro- bably the descendants of those that adorned the gardens and supplied the market of the capital of Arabia : the carob, the fig, mulborry-tree, and pomegranate, line the river side ; and a vory beautiful species of aloe also grows in this valley, bearing flowers of an orange hue shaded to scarlet ; in some instances it had upwards of a hundred blossoms on a branch. Streets of tombs and stately mausoleums are standing in every direction of this now desolate place. " Great must have been the opulence of a city which could dedicate such monuments to the memory of its rulers," was the observation of one of the unfortunate travellera who passed through Idumea. But Idumca has been " laid waste from generation to generation," according to the words of the prophet : " They shall call the nobles thereof to the kingdom, but none shall be there, and all her princes shall be nothing." (Isaiah xxxiv. 10 — 12.) At the entrance of the city from the N.E. is a large sepulchre which had originally three storeys ; on the basement is one large and lofty chamber, having six recesses with grooves in them at the farther end. On tho establishment of Christianity, these recesses have been conver^'ed into three for the n ntion of altars, and the whole apartment has been made to serve as a church ; the fiastenings for the tapestry and pu tines are still visible in all the walls, and near an angle is an inscription in rea paint, recording the date of consecration. These fire the only vestiges of Christian establishment which the travellers could discover throughout the remains of Petra, though it was a metropolitan see. The fulfilment of the prophecies respecting Idumt* has been brought to light by a most astonishing and overpowering evidence. So great are the difficulties and dangers which await those who dare attempt to visit the 40 POMPKir. ancient capital of Munica, that the English iravolk'rs could not hut compare their case to that of the Israelites, when *' ]i)dom refusre con- stantly fired at and harassed. In descrihing the avenue to Pctra they say, " The exact spot was not pointed out to us, hut it was somewhere amidst these natural horrors that upwards of thirty pilgrims from Uarhary were murdered last year hy the men of Wady Mousa, on their return from Mecca." The jerils encountered hy the English were related to the French travellers hy their protector, nephew to the Arab chief who had guarded the former : and the young man seized a favourable momefit to conduct the latter in safety into the valley of Wady Mousa. Church of Enghind Magazine. POMPEII. ^■1 The distance from Naples to Pompeii is little more than ten English miles. Near the Torre del Annun/iata to the left, and amid hills planted with vineyards, the town itself, which, throwing oft' its shroud of ashes, came forth from its grave, breaks on the view. The buildings are without roof«, which an^ supposed to have been destroy- ed by an enemy in an unguarded state, or torn off by a hurricane. The tracks of the wheels which anciently I'oUed over the pavement are still visible. An elevated path runs by the side of the houses, for foot passengera ; andy to enable them in rainy weather to pass more com- i POMPEIf. Uerfl lites, h his ?. the Iroiu nt ill con- o tho JlTUl con- reiiuo tl out )vrora wore [ thoir y the their cd the Dineiit ^Vtuly inc. tlian ita to town forth |g3 are ^stroy- F hy a •iently levatcd Ingera ; coiu- modiously to th.c opposite side, large flat stones, three of whicii take up the width of the road, were hiid at a dis- tance from each other. As the caninges, in order to avoid these stones, wore ohliged to use the intermediate spaces, the tracks of the wheels are there most visible. The whole of the pavement is in good condition : it consists merely of considerable pieces of lava, which, however, are not cut, as at present, into squares, and may have been on that account the more durable. The part which was first cleared is supposed to have l)cen the main street of Pompeii ; but this is much to bo doubted, as the houses on both sides, with the exception of a few, were evidently tho habitations of common citi- zens, and were small, and provided with booths. The street itself likewise is narrow : two carriages only could go abreast ; and it is very uncertain whether it ran through the whole of the town ; for, from the spot where the moderns discontinued digging, to that where they re- commenced, and where the same street is supposed to have been again found, a wide tract is covered with vine- yards, which may very well occupy the place of tho most splendid streets and markets, still concealed underneath. Among the objects which attract a particular attention, is a booth in which liquors were sold, and tho marble table within, which bears the marks of tho cups left by the drinkers. Next to this is a house, the threshold of which is inlaid with a salutation of black stone, as a token of hospitality. On entering the habitations, the visitor is struck by the strangeness of their construction. The middle of the house forms a square, something like the cross passages of a cloister, often surrounded by pil- lars : it is cleanly, and paved with party-coloured mo- saic, which has an agreeable effect. In the middle is a cooling well, and on each side a little chamber, about ten or twelve feet square, but lofty, and painted with a fine red or yellow. The floor is of mosaic, and the door is made generally to serve as a window, there being but one apartment, which receives light through a thick blue 4n roMTKlT. ti h H glass. Mrtny of Hn^so rooms aro fnp])oso(l fo Imvo l»orn l>o«!-clijnnl>ors, l»romiso tliciv is an olovntrtl bnxul step, on which \\\o hod ni.iy h;»vo slnotl, (tii; rooms, on this nooonnt, fli.iion fho nnlls ii V^M^ls is «h'soriho«l, (h'oorat- Oi\ !>y tho (ir.iors, nihU'd (o whioh, liKlo ll.iska and iu>xos of variona dosoripfions havo hiMMi fountl in thorn. 'I'ho larg-or of (hoso apnrt'inonia sorvod for dining-rooms ; and in some aiv to ho mot suitahle aooonnnodationa for hot and oohl hatha. Tho tnannor in \vhioh a whoh^ room ia hoatod is par- tionhu'lv onriona. Aq-aitial tho na\ial wall, a socond was crootod, standing at a liKlo distanoo fron\ tho first. For this purpoao, larco stpiaro tiloa woro takon, havinjj;, liUo our tiloa, a sort of hook, so that thoy kopt tho first wall, Aa it woiv, otV from tluMn. A hollow spaoo was thus loft all around, from tho top to tho hottv)m, into whioh ])ipos wor(» intn>d\iood, that oarriod tho warmth into tho oham- hor, an»l, aa it W(M*o, n^idorod the wholo j>laoc ono stovo. Tho anoionts woiv als»> attontivo to avoid the vapour or smell from tho lamps. In somo housoa thoiv is a nioho made in tho wall tor tho lamp, with a littlo chimney in the form of a funnel, through whioh thoamoko asoonded. Opposite to tho house-door tho larg(at room ia placed. It ia pn^perly a sort of hall, for it has only three walls, heing quite open in the fore part. Tho side-rooms havo no connection with each other, hut are divided olV like the cells of monks, the door of each leading to the foun- t^iin. Most of the houses consist of one such square, surround- ed hy rooms. In a few, some decayed steps aeeni to havo led to an upper story, which is no longer in existence. Some hahitations, however, prohahly hclonging to the richer and more fashionahle, are far more spacious. In these, a tirst court is often connected with a second, and oven with a thinl, hy passages ; in other respects they are pretty similar to those ahove descrihcd. Many garlands I'OMrF.II. 40 born i'|>, on )l" tho room. »n tins oorat- boxoH 'J'ho \ : nn09 3 ohaiu- L> stove, nour or nic'oo »\noy ill omlotl. ]i\acoil. walls, u9 have otV like fouii- rround- to have istenco. to tl\c us. In id, and |hey are arlands I i of flowcrfl and vine hranclicH, and many Imndsomc pic- f nrcH, arc still to hv nrvn on tho walls. 'I'lie guides wore formorly porniittod to s|)rinklo tlicso pictures with fresh water in the presence of travellers, jvnd thus revive their former splendour for a moment, hut this is now etrietly forbidden ; and, indeed, not without reason, since the fre(|uent watering might at length totally rot oway the wall. One of the houses belonged to a statuary, whose work- shop is still full of the vestiges of his art. Another ap- j)ears to have been inhabited by a surgeon, whose profch- sion is c(iual!y evident from th<^ instruments discovered in his chamber. A large country house near the gate, undoubtedly belonged to a very wealthy man, and would in fact, still invite inhabitants within its walls. It is very extensive, stands against a hill, and has many storeys. Its tinely diTorated rooms are unusually spa- cious; and it has airy terraces, from which you look aasage, resting on pillars, encloses the garden on three sides. It was painted, and probably served in rainy weather as an agreeable walk. Beneath is a fine arched cellar, which receives air and light by several openings from without ; consequently, its atmosphere is so pure, that in tho hottest part of summer, it is always refreshing. A number oi' amphoroey or largo wine vessels, are to be seen here still leaning against the wall, as tho butler left them when ho fetched up tho hist goblet of wine for his master. Had the inhabitants of Pompeii preserved these vessels with stoppers, wine might still have been found in them ; but as it was, the stream of ashes rushing in of courac forced out the wine. More 60 POMPEIT. ;] I than twenty human skeletons of fugitives, who thought tj save themselves here under ground, but who experi- enced a tenfold more cruel death than those suffered who were in the open air, were found within this cellar. The destiny of the Pompeians must have been dread- ful. It was not a stream of fire which encompassed their abodes ; they could then have sought refuge in flight. Neither did an earthquake swallow them up ; sudden suffocation would then have spared them the pangs of a lingering death. A rain of ashes buried them alive by DEGREES ! We will read the delineation of Pliny : — " A darkness suddenly overspread the country ; not like the darkness of a moonless night, but like that of a closed room, in which the light is suddenly extinguished. Wo- men screamed, children moaned, men cried. Here chil- dren were anxiously calling their parents ; and there parents were seeking their children, or husbands their wives; all recognised each other only by their cries. The former lamented their own fate, and the latter that of those dearest to them. Many wished for death, from the fear of dying. Many called on the gods for assist- ance ; others despaired of the existence of the gods, and thought this the last eternal night of the world. Actual dangers were magnified by unreal terrors. The earth continued to shake, and men half distracted, to reel about, exaggerating their own fears, and those of others, jy ter- rifying predictions." Such is the frightful but true picture which Pliny gives us of the horrors of those who were, however, far from the extremity of tlieir misery. But what must have been the feelings of the Pompeians, when the roar- ing of the mountain, and the quaking of the earth, awak- ened them from their first sleep ? They also attempted to escape the wrath of the gods ; and, seizing the most valuable things they could lay their hands upon in the darkness and confusion, to seek their safety in flight. In this street, and in front of the house marked with the friendly salutation on its threshold, even skeletons were POMPEII. 61 Pliny were found. The first carried a lamp, and the rest had still between the bones of their fingers something they wish- ed to save. On a sudden, they were overtaken by tlie storm which descended from heaven, and buried in the grave thus made for them. Before the above-mentioned country-house was still a male skeleton, standing with a dish in his hand ; and as he wore on his finger one of those rings which were allowed to be worn by Roman knights only, he is supposed to have been the master of the house, who had just opened the back garden gate, with the intent of flying, when the shower overwhelmed him. Several skeletons were found in the very posture in which they had breathed their last, without having been forced by the agonies of death to drop the things they had in their hands. This leads to a conjecture, that the thick mass of ashes must have come down all at once, in such immense quantities as instantly to cover them. It cannot otherwise be imagined, how all the fugi- tives could have been fixed, as it were, by a charm, in their position ; and in this manner their destiny was the less dreadful, seeing that death suddenly converted them in- to motionless statues, and thus was stripped of all the horrors with which the fears of the sufferers had clothed him in imagination. But what then must have been the pitiable condition of those who had taken refuge in the buildings and cellars ! Buried in the thickest darkness, they were secluded from every thing but lingering tor- ment ; and who can paint to himself, without shudder- ing, a slow dissolution approaching amid all the agonies of body and of mind '( The soul recoils from the con- templation of such images. To proceed now to the public edifices. The temple of Isis is still standing, with its Doric pillars, and its walls painted with emblems of the service of the deity, such as hippopotamus, cocoa-blossoms, ibis, &c. The sacred ves- sels, lamps and tables of Isis, are still to be seen. From a little chapel within, a poisonous vapour is said to have formerly arisen, which the heathen priests may have 52 POMPEII. is used for every species of deception. This vapour is saia to have increased after the violent eruption of Vesuvius ; but has not latterly given out the slightest smell. A small Grecian temple, of which only two pillars re- main, had been probably already destroyed by an earth- quake which, in the reign of Titus, preceded the dreadful eruption of the volcano. On the opposite side of this temple, there is still an edifice, named the quarter of the soldiers, because all sorts of arms, pictures of soldiers, and a skeleton in chains, were found there. By others, it has been considered the forum of Pompeii. Two theatres, the smaller one particularly, are in an excellent state of preservation. The structure of this one is such as was usually adopted by the ancients, and is well deserving of modern imitation, as it affords the spec- tators commodious seats, a free view of the stage, and fa- cility of hearing. Although sufficiently large to contain 2000 persons, the plebeians, standing in a broad gallery at the top, were quite as a?-^e to see all that was passing on tlie stage as the magistrate in his marble balcony. In this gallery the arrangements for spreading the sailcloth over the spectators are still visible. The stage itself is very broad, and it has no side walls, and appears less deep than it really is. A wall runs across it, and cuts off just as much room as is necessary for the accommo- dation of the performers. But this wall has three very broad doors ; the middle one is distinguished by its height, and the space behind it is still deeper than in front. If these dooi-s, as may be conjectured, always stood open, the stage was in fact large, and afforded, be- sides, the advantage of being able to display a double scenery ; if, for example, the scene in front was that of a street, there might have been behind a free prospect into the open field. The cemetery lies before the gate of the high road. The tomb of the priestess Mammea, is very remarkable ; it was erected, according to the epitaph, by virtue of a decree of the Decemvirs. In the midst of little boxes ot I A VISIT TO POMPEII. 63 stone, in square piles, and on a sort of altar, the family urns were placed in niches ; and without-side these, the broken piles are still to be seen. In front of the ceme- tery, by the road-side, is a beautiful seat, forming a semicircle which will contain twenty or thirty pei^sons. It was probably overshadowed by trees 1800 years ago under which the women of Pompeii sat in the cool even- ings, while their children played before them, and view- ed the crowds which were passing through the gate. Kotzebuc^s 2'ravels. very its m in [ways be- )uble of a into Iroad. ible; of a Les ot A VISIT TO POMPEII, AND AN ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VESUVIUS. The feelings and the reflections excited in the mind by a visit to Pompeii, are essentially distinct from those suggested by the ruins of the " Mistress of the World." Here are not proud associations to swell the bosom, no reverence for the " unforgotten dead." But, on the other hand, here is an ancient city in almost perfect preserva- tion. Not a few columns, or a ruined amphitheatre survive; but the temple with its altars and its shrine, the theatre with its seats, its orchestra, and its stage ; houses almost habitable, and shops into which modern artizans might enter after a few repairs. You feel actually familiar with a people over whose graves eighteen cen- turies have passed away. You enter into every detail of public and of private life. In these courts kneeled the multitude before the temples of the gods — on these altars streamed the sacrificial blood — on this stage trod the masked and buskined actors — above the door of entrance sate the magistrates — in the curia are still to be seen the steps which ascended to the rostrum of the orator — in this basilica was the tribunal of the judge — here are the shaded portico, and the luxurious bath — here are the bed- room, the parlour, the dining-room, the garden — here is )♦ ^4 A vi«5n r«> rovrni, am> A?f 1br» 9110^ of flic ni^iifl^Mvivx . 1>nl(«M'. fhr vmd'M- of nil, tlir r!ir|>rnfov, fho tiiillrv :inil flu* nvnv^uriT on flir^r very ]\ivonionf'' vollril i\\r r!nvv'ii)r«> of Poinpnii on t1n'^i» vrrv stop|>ini) •'fonrfl iho inliJiUifunf*' ovo«?m'tl tin' MtiiM>ts info Ihoso vow «looi*«» tliov tMiton^l on ihv^r vorv Rtiiiif ihry nsorntloil f(> flio voof -.\ fl)on«^!intl rin'mnsff>nooq nf omtv pto|> rononv in fv!in«?|>ovf inij yoti bnoU fo n (li^fotit oifo. If f horr'ni of Homo oxIiiUitji'^ fliov nmino'^f imviM v »lo,u fjir p>\')\' iiini)nifi,MM'..'o. «ni{li is soon lioro to astonish lis n'l ihv s]>1on»lonv of ji moiv |>rovinoi!\l rify. I \\\\\ vontniv fo nflinn. flint fhoiv i-^ not n |MiMio |>1;ioo in nnv rify 1 linvhio), u Inch ofni bo oompni>Ml ni .-ill in nn liifoofiinO l>o,nU.y jind rUvot uith fho I'ovnni of Vonipoii. Tho ornin)nM>f«* i>f tin* ho!i«»os too. oonfrihtifo fo )>i>vl\n'o fho siuno in\]>ivs'^ion : titan's of ti'josnio, wnlls of |>iinfin!i«». oo1onnn«lo(l »'onvt'^, stntnos of biN^n/o rtn«l innvM»\ mv only tho onlitinry rtttvihntos of ihoso of iho l>(^ff(M- <*l;i"»o. Tho vimv oooUini;^ \it»'n"»ils fonn^l flioiv niv nil of lnv">n7<\ In oonifovt, liouovor, if >vo oon\p.nv fhoivoivo loss vortson fo I'on- pratnlnto onvsolvos th.in >vo lv^«l im;rs);ino(l. Tho botl- r<>07nR, it is tvno. mv novov 1 n'sjor thon ton \\'o\ st^itm* ; but thon thoy opon on n sholfoivd oonH : tlio floors, it is tmo, !iiv of niostiio ; Init this is nn nlv wil' porvo if tho vi^rv small qnnnfiiy of w inflow ala^s in nsi« ho mmh^ nn ohjootion. One oiivnmsf Anoo ilosovvos notioo, in illnstr.ition of fhp morals of the- aiioionts. Tho mosi sh«>okingly in«looont piofnros arc tonn«l l-ntth in tho ]>nhlio an«l privato np.irt- TTionts of tho host honsos, hotvayinj? n vory slia:ht ivgJif 1 to fonialo niodosiy nn*l >irino, «n in'or from this faot^ a general corruption and depravity of ii^anners. After visit ine^^>T^■^peii.TTerenlanenm is seareely woHhy of Attention : hnt two excavations have been made. Wv one, a private house resen^hling those of Pompeii has (i A«?lmi|;l)ty f^wny^ wliirli liolda nil mpn, an«l nil tliinf>;s in lipavpn nn^n nml irrpRiRHMp out fivo miles from Nnples, nrni is built upon tho Invft tlint oovprpd llprrnlnfieuin,you Ipnvp your onrriagp to mount mulps or assps for tlip nscpnt of the mountain, 'J'he scphp in the court-yard of Salvatoro (the principal guido to Vpsuvius) is ludicrous enough. You have hcen attended about half a mile back, by a multitude of muleteers, cantering their poor jaded beasts, to show their paces, and ottering tliem from time to time to your acceptance. When you arrive in the yard, unlefv* you are very alert in descending, you will p robably be 66 A VISIT TO POMPEII, AND AN blockaded in your carriages by heads and tails jammed close around it, with only room enough for the noisy masters to stand, offering the rope, bridle, and club, and bawling in your ears, " buono mulo^^ Perhaps one or two more lucky than the rest, have caught from travellers a few words of English, which they are careful to display to the best advantage, by vociferating ^^ goodmool" *^new sad" as long as their breath allows them. At length, however, you are mounted with a guide in your rear, armed with a substantial club. No sooner is the signal for departure given, tlian the club falls first on one flank, and then upon the other of the much-enduring animal, wlio does his best, for a short distance, to imitate a gallop ; but alas ! a distance of ten rods convinces you of the futility of his efforts. For the remainder of the journey, you are fortunate if, once in a while, he can be induced, even by the most fortunate arguments, to trot. The nature of the ground, in fact, soon becomes such as to render even this impracticable ; winding up steep ascents, and over uneven layers cf ia';a, the product of various eruptions, the path admits of no pace faster than a walk. The appearance of the mountain even here is awful. The black masses which !ie beneath your feet, you can- not but remember, were once sheets of £liding liquid fire. This stream, your guide will tell you, ruined I'orre del Greco, that buried Herculaneum, and this bed of ashes is of the same species with those which covered Pompeii. Far above you rises the conic crnt r, apparently too steep for any huiiian foot to mount, covered with itw cJond of smoke waving in the sun with treacherous beauty. Look downward, however, ani what a contrast is presented in the glorious prospect which bursts upon the view ! Northward lie the delicious plains of Campania Felice, rich with verdure and with foliage, and crowdtd with the habitations ' men. Westward, beneath your feet, a line of villages. Torre del Greco, Besina, and Portici, are stretched along the coast, opposite lies Naples, on & ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VESUVIUS. 57 irc. del 3S is )eii. eep Hof )ok in |w! lice, lith ?et, f I I gentle ascent, crowned with the conic eminence and castle of St. Elmo, terminated on the bay by its project- ing moles, and leading the eye westward still along the lofty promontory of Posilippo. Further on, in the same direction, Cape Miseno juts into the sea, sheltering the classic gulph of Baiae. Procida comes next, a little to the south ; and closing the semicircular sweep, Ischia lifts towards heaven its volcanic summit. Turning to the south, you behold a long and mountainous promontory, beautifully diversified by the varied outline of its high- lands, by its retreating bays and lofty capes, edged with delightfully situated villages, Castela Mare Vico,and SorrentOj and others scarcely less remai'kable, and at its descending point separated by a narrow strait from the island of Capri, whose wildly graceful outline appropri- ately terminates on this side the most enchanting bay in all the world. Near the base of the cone lives a hermit, in the habit of a Capuchin friar, who furnishes travellers with the re- freshment of hrtad and cheese, and the delicious wine produced on the jnountain, and known under the name of Lachrymae Christi. He lives here without apprehen- sion, being confident in his ability to discern the signs of an approaching eruption. The signs are indeed in gene- ral suflftcitntly distinct. Tremblings of the earth, and emisfciion of blac'c smoke, which rises to an enormous hei^'ht in the air in the form of a column or cone, almost uniformly give warning of impending danger. At length, after an ascent of two hours, you arrive at the bottom of the cone, and alight from your mule. Henceforward you must trust to your own exertions. Your guide will offer to let you hold by a belt round his body ; but, for my own pjirt, I preferred to endure a little more fatigue, rather than increase the burden of any man so greatly. The ascent is very iteep ; but what is worse, the soil on which you tread is a loose sand, into which you constant- ly sink up to the ankles, and which slips from beneath your feet to such a degree, that you lose at i Jist one step I V - i ; if n ' i I ^1 hi 58 A VISIT TO POMPEII, AND AW in three. The perpendicular height of the mountain is 3600 feet — that of the cone I could not ascertain, but conjecture it to be about one-fifth of the whole. The labour of the ascent is of course prodigious. Frequent pauses are necessary, to enable one to reach the top in a state little short of exhaustion. Arrived at the top, you are indeed rewarded for all your fatigue. Directly beneath you yawns a gulf of 3G0 or 400 feet in depth, and upwards of a mile in circumfer- ence, occupying the whole summit of the mountain, except a narrow border, generally not more than four feet wide. The sides of the gulf, in many places precipitous, are steep in all. Below is seen the surface of the crater, in part black with coolled lava, and covered in part with liquic' fire, and sending forth smoke and flame from every crevice. In the midst arises a low cone, fonned of ejected matter, upon whose summit open the very jaws of the subterranean abyss of fire. From thence issue clouds rolling upon clouds, of sulphurous smoke, mingled from time to time with flashing flames, and, at every burst of the volcano, pierced by a thousand fragments of shivered rocks. The loud breathing of the fire is borne across the crater, seeming the fierce pantings of some chained monster ; the sharp sound of the crackling flames pierces the ear, as if, assuming another form, sound had become material ; while the tremendous roar of explosions succeeding each other at every instant, fills the organs, and almost confounds the soul. Forcibly abstracting my attention from this fearful gulf, and turning once more towards a world which I almost seemed to have left for ever behind me, a scene burst upon my view, which I could not deem less than Elysian. Far in the west, the setting sun yet shed a parting smile upon the land- scape, communicating a still softer tranquil beauty. The golden atmosphere, tliose purple mountains, richer far in Ime than northern climes can furnish or the inhabitants imagine, those glorious islands, those lofty promontories* that ample bay, that beautiful city, those long lines of ASCENT TO THE ST MMIT OF VESUVIUS. 69 villages, I never shall forget, as they appeared at sunset from the sunnnit of Vesuvius. It was now time to descend into the crater, an experi- ment without danger, though attended with great fatigue. There was still light enough to guide us, and at the same time, the approach of evening of course increased the apparent brightness of the flames. When arrived at the bottom of the crater, we found ourselves treading on a black uneven surface, yet warm beneath our feet. It was broken into blocks, like ice on +110 surface of a river, and in the intervals was to be seen, three or four feet below the surface, instead of water, lava still red hot. Fortun- ately the mountain had poured out on the very morning of our ascent a fresh stream of lava, which now surround- ed about one-half of the circumference of the crater. On approaching it, the heat, both of the air and the surface under our feet, was greatly increased. In some places we could see the lava still in a state of fusion, and boiling like molten glass. In others, it had begun to grow black on tlio exterior crust. It would have been easier in some respects to obtain specimens, by thrusting a stick into the boiling liquid ; but it was actually too hot to be approached. We were therefore content to strike off with our canes, by a strong effort, pieces from a part which was much cooler, though still red hot. I did not attempt to ascend the cone containing the actually operative crater, as stones were constantly falling around it, and I was far from wishing to court the fate of Pliny. As twilight began to fall thickly around us, we hastened our ascent to the edge of the great crater, conscious, I be- lieve, of something like a wish not to be the hindmost. When we arrived once more at the top we lay down in our cloaks upon the brink, again to enjoy the terrible sublimity of the scene, which is in fact witnessed best from hence. In the crater you are occupied with parts — here the grand whole not only occupies but absorbs you. But my powers of description, when compared with the mighty subject, are, I confess, exhausted, utterly inade- 60 SPANISH DULL-FIOHT. quatc ; and thougli I remained three hours longer on the spot, to observe tlie increased magnificence both of siglit and sound, in the darkness and stillness of night, I must not dare to add another word. Our descent, which would have been dangerous on any other animal than a mule, was performed by torch-light ; and as there was a number of parties at the same time upon the mountain, some above and some below us, and others winding along on either side, our march was ex- ceedingly picturesque. I must however confess, that I hailed with great pleasure the carriage that awaited mo at Resina, and with still increased satisfaction even the Neapolitan bed that finally received me. Griffin* s Remains, Blackwood's Maf^aziiie. CHAPTER III. ADVENTlJRi:S WITH WILD ANIMALS. If yonder hunter told us true, Far oflT in desert dark and rude, The lion holds his solitude. — II i oi.r. / I i SPANISH BULL-FIOHT. At Madrid the Bull-fight takes place in an edifice called the Plaza de Toros, which stands upon an eminence without the gate of Alcala. The Plaza is of a circular form, and not elliptical, like the Roman amphitheatres. Tne extreme diameter of the outer walls is 330 feet, of the arena, 220. It is capable of containing 11,000 spec- tators. The exterior wall is of brick, but the barriers, benches, and pillars which sustani the two covered gal- SrANISII nULIi-FTOIlT. 61 illod kencc pular Itres. It, of Ipcc- liers, gal- leries and roof are all of wood. The upper gallery is divided into commodious boxes, of which the one which looks to the north, and which is never shone on by the sun, is decorated with the royal arms, and set apart for the king. Beneath the first gallery is another similar to it, except that it is not divided into boxes, but is left open the whole way round. Beneath this last gallery there is a succession of uncovered benches, sloping down to- wards the lobby which encloses the nrena. These benches make the complete circuit of tl'c edifice, and give a good idea of a Roman amphitheatre. The portion of the Plaza allotted to the bulls, horses, and torcrosy is of very simple construction. The arena is enclosed by a barrier six feet high, surrounded by a circular lobby, into which the combatants escape when too warmly pursued. This lobby is pierced by four sets of folding doors communicating from the arena to the different apartments beneath the amphitheatre. One of these is the toril, where the bulls are enclosed pre- paratory to the combat. The folding door opening into the arena in front of that of the toril gives admittance to the alfjuazilsy who act as marshalls ; a third to the horses and picadores ; whilst through a fourth are dragged away the carcasses of the victims. The hour appointed for the commencement of the feast having at length arrived, the corregidor takes his seat in the royal box, supported by . his officers. A priest also remains in waiting with Su Magestad, — the host, — ready to administer the sacrament to the dying toreros. The trumpets now sound, the gate under the royal box is thrown open, and two alguazils enter the lists, mounted on proud Andalusian steeds, whose heads are half hidden under manes parted in the middle, with eyes glaring fiercely through their forelocks, and tails which sweep the arena. Having rode round the lists, to clear them of thoso who have been sweeping and sprink- ling the ground, and of the cnnalla who have been wrestling and rolling in the dust, they meet each other H m. r C2 SPANISH DULL-FIGHT. I I in the Cf ntro, and then ride to the box of the corregidor, before which they make an obeisance, to signify that every thing is ready for the opening of the feast. Upon this the corregidor throws down the key of the toriJ, waves his handkerchief, and the ninsic stationed at the opposite side of the amphitheatre sounds a march. The foUling gates are thrown open at the left, and the chulos enter, escorting tlie two picadores. The chulos or cheats, are dressed some in black, some in green, and some in crimson. They are all well made men, and are seen to ])eculiar advantage in their tight dress, ornamented with bunches of ribbons at the knees, the shoes, and in their hair. Besides a worked cambric handkerchief floating from either pocket, each chulo wears a silk cloak of green, red, or yellow. Tiiis serves to irritate the bull, and to divert his attention. The picadores wear Moorish jackets embroidered with gold, large flat hats of white, ornamented with roses or gay ribbands, and vhich are confined by a string passing round the chin, and buckskin pantaloons lined with plates of armour to protect the leg. Their lance is long and heavy, with a small three-cornered point of steel at the end. This point is wound round with yarn to prevent it from penetrating far. The lance of the picador serves to turn the bull off but does him little injury, indeed it may it may rather be looked on as a defensive than as an otfensivc weapon. Thus, in the contest between the bull and the picador^ the danger is altogether on the side of the horse and his ridor. The picadores enter the lists mounted on jaded beasts which are evidently within a few months of their natural death. They are bought for a few dollars, part of which the proprietor gets back by the sale of the skin ; when brought into the lists, they are half hidden under huge Moorish saddles, which rise before and be4iind, near a foot from the back, in order to strengthen the seat of the picador. If the animal has a good eye remaining, it is GOTcred with a pocket handkerchief. The attire of tho SPANISH BULL-FIOHT. 63 that Upon toril, at tbo The chulot , some i made p tight knees, ambrie chulo i scrvca oidered d with 1 by a taloona Their ornercd round ic lance )cs him kcd on in the iingcr is r. The s whicli 1 death, ich the when er huge near a at of the ng, it is e of tho picador is usually soiled by frcfjucnt rolling in the dust. Indeed as ho poises his lance and kicks his limping beast forward, by dint of spurs, to pay his respects to the cor- regidor, his whole appearance offers a striking contrast to the gallant bearing of the nlyuazil. The winter fea.st always commences with novilos em- balailosj whoso horns were covered with balls, and who overturned the picadore.s and their horses without doing tliem injury. This contest is sustained usually by novices, whose clumsy efforts to overturn the bull give infinite amusement to the audience, and prepare them to estimate the excel h'nce of the veteran picadoretf who come afterwards to contend with the muertos* Indeed, to appreciate correctly the difbeulty of any task, we should not only see it well but ill executed. The novillos and the novices who contend with them having left the lists, two old toreros ride through the portal, and are greeted with the applause of the multitude, to whom they have been rendered familiar by many a feat of skill and courage, and by many a scene of danger. To give a general idea of the mode of attacking the bull, it may be suflicient to descril)e an individual fight, by far the most bloody of many that I saw in Spain. On the occasion to which I allude, the bull, though he bore the name of novitlo^ wns a sturdy beast, that might have counted a lustrum. Though not large, his confor- mation could scarce have been more powerful. He was rather lightly built behind, widening, however, in span towards the shoulders, which served as foundation to a thick neck and short head, armed with a pair of horns, which were long, but stout and well pointed. His coat was of a rusty brown, darkening into black towards the neck and shoulders, where it became thick and curly like the mane of a lion. This bull had taken the place of a companion who liad preceded him to slaughter, in the narrow entry which leads from the toril to the arena. The chuloa having taken their stand with the two picadores drawn rr 64 SPANISH BULL-FIGHT. I i I 'I up behind him, the signal was given, and the trumpets sounded a martial flourish. Tlie gates were at once thrown open to admit a passage into the lists, and we now first discovered the bull, such as I have described him, endeavouring to force his way through the iron grate which separated him from the toril. The poor animal had been tormented by separation from his herd, by confinement, by tortures to which his lacerated ears bore testimony, and by desires which had been pam- pered, but not gratified. At this moment a prick from a torero in the lobby caused him to turn about, when he discovered an open passage into the lists, and rushed at once madly in, hoping, no doubt, that he had at last found an open road to conduct him to the fertile marshes of the Guadiana, where he had so long reigned lord of the herd. This moment is one of the most interesting of the whole spectacle. The bull is seen coming forward in mad career, his tail writhing furiously, his head down, mouth foaming, nostrils wide open and fiery, his eyes glaring fiercely through the matted curls of his fore- head, whilst the red ribbon, nailed with a barbed iron to his neck, flutters wildly back, and serves at once as a torture and device. Having reached the centre of the arena, he discovers that his hope of escape was illusory ; he pauses, glares witli wonder upon the multitude drawn up in a continuous ring around him, and who greet his arrival with sliouts, whistlingt?, and the waving of gar- ments. But though astonished, he is not terrified. He glances his bewildered eye about the arena, in search of some enemy upon whom to wreak his fury. No sooner did the bull in question discover the chulos fliuttering their gay clothes, and inviting him to the victory by showing a disposition to fly before him, than he made after the nearest at the top of his speed. The chulo^ thus warmly pursued, waved his crimson cloak to the right and left, to retard the progress of the beast by rendering it unsteady, and having with difficulty reached SPANISH bul;l-fight. C5 npets once id we iribed 1 iron poor herd, d ears pam- froma len he led at ^t last arshes lord of whole a mad I down, s eyes s fore- iron to ;e as a of the usory ; drawn eet his of gar- i. He irch of chulos to the than The leak to east by eached 1 the barrier without being ovci-takcn, he leaped over into the lobby. The escape of the chulo was by no means "imature; the bull reached the bamer at the same instant, and as the legs of the fugitive were vaulting over, his horns caught the fluttering silk and nailed it to the boards. Excited by victory, the bull now makes for the pica- dor. Here is another situation which would furnish a fine study for the pencil. 1^\\q picador is seen drawn up at a short distance from the barrier, with his lance grasped tightly in his right hand and under the arm, and presenting the right shoulder of his horse to the attack of the bull. Before aiming his blow, the bull usually pauses a moment to eye his antagonist. Then, if he be cowardly, he paws the ground, bellows, and bullies, going backwards all the while, as if to gain space for his career ; but in reality to place a greater distance between himself and his adversary. Such, however, was neither the character nor the conduct of the bull in question ; indeed, no sooner had he cleared his forehead of the cloak of the chulo, than he rushed towards the picador* The shouts of the multitude now gave place to silent glances of anxiety ; for the bull, having aimed his blow, dropped his head to cover it with his horns, and shutting his eyes, darted upon his enemy. This effort, however, was un- successfuly made, or at least it was defeated by the address of the picador. The bull was met by the lance just as he was on his hind legs to make his last bound, and was turned dexterously aside. Without checking his career, he darted at once upon the second picador, drawn up behind his comrade. The second attack was more successful. The lance of the picador was driven in by force, and the Iiorns of the infuriated animal entered deep into the side of his victim. The wounded horse now turned to escape in the direction opposite to that whence this unseen attack had come ; but he was instantly over- taken by the bull, who, driving his horns into the flank and tossing his head, completely overturned both horse ■^P%J"Ws^SSR»w 60 srANisit nrM.-riniiT. I.- Nii And riMov. T^nt iho fnrv of tlio nnimni was not yot sntisfird. Ho «1ar<«M| npon hi«< fallcMi rtdvorsa? v, niid most nnluokily onmn upon iliat siilo ulioiv Iny Iho riitrtnf»;lonolios, sonio of tlio wonion nttond ]>rayors and orossod thomsolvos, whilst mndi as had tlioin tightor. At this nnnnont tlio rhuhs oanio np \\'\\]\ thoir cloaks, and divw tho hnll to anothor jpiartor of tho li'^ts. It was for a moniont nnoovtain wh«^(hov tho fallon n»an woro dead or livintj- : hut hoino; at lonijth rison fron\ tho dnst, it ftppoaivd that ho had snstainod no injnry. 'I'ho horso boinj^ tho n)on^ proinin;Mit ohjoot of tho two, hail attract- pd tho ohiof attention of tho hnll ; hnt a doop ivnt in the jaokot of tho pirndor slnnvocl how narrow had been his escape. Whilst this was doinji;, tho lirst horseman, who had tnrned tho h\ill, rodo round tho lists to taUo his place in tho roar of his comrade. His second oft'ort to turn tho bull was loss succoasful thai ooforo ; prohahly through tho fault of tho horso, which hoing in\porfectly hiindcd, saw tho appntach of his antajj-onist, and roared side- wise before bim. The lanco of his rider was forced in, and tho bull dartoit liis horns into the side of the hoi*so, and bold him securely to tho barritM*. The picador novr abandoning his lanco, caught the top of the barrier, and being assisted by ]>eoplo from without, wjis drawn over into the lobby. Tln^ chulos again divorte*! tho attention of the bull. He ivleased the horse, and the wounded beast, no longer su]>]>orted by th(» murderous horns which had rondeivd snp]>("»rt necessary, staggered side- wise towai\ls the centre of the lists. At each step tho blood gushed in a torrent fnun behind his shoulder, until he fell motionless to the earth. The saddle and bridle were at once stripped from the carcass of the horse, and carried away to deck out another for tho same doom. Meantime the second picador raised his horse from th« i 1 BPANlsn ni'Mi-FIOITT. m ovnfl waa vpry no of .^Ivos, , At , nnd i\H Vor list, it horse Itract- in the ?e\i his w, who 9 place ini tho \ rough lUmled, llo-wise uul tho br novr ]or, an^ n over Itoution lounded horna kl side- step tho ?r, until bridle », and )intUt I gronnfl, roncho'l tlio RH«l(lI«Mvilh tlin assist anro of a rAu/fi, a»ul oonnnciMM mI Rpurrinjr tho innnglod hoast. rmiiul tlie arona. I frlf. inoro for tlio poor liorso than I doiiht- KvsH Iho pringth to Hie spot wet with the hlood of his eonirade. When he had stood rooted to the ground awhile, he turned his noso high into the air, snutttMl the passing hreeze, nnd then, having sought in vain to discover the paawige hy which he had entered, made a desperate effort to leap tho harrier, llo was very nearly successful ; his hody for an instant balanced in un- certainty on the top, and in the next fell hack into the nriMia. The new hope thus speedily defeated, he bellowed in a low indistinct tone, and being excited by tho taunt- ing shouts which grt»eted his failure, ho fell to wreaking his fury upon the dead body of his first victim. By this time the picadores were again mounted and in the lists. The first horse was forced round nnd over- taken in his flight ns before, nnd being gored behind, fell back upon his rider. The chulos with their cloaks most If ' ■ }l . ii 'fl ■ f ! 1 i ', I 1, ' f I SPANISH BULL-FIOUT. opportunely diverted the attention of the bull, and tlie grooms h.'istened to raise the wounded horse, and drag him out of the lists. The thigh-hone of the poor animal liad been either broken or dislocated ; the leg being use- less and dangling behind, he was forced away upon the three which remained to 'lim. The fate of the next horse was sooner decided, and was even more shocking. He received a single gore in the belly ; the whole of his bowels at once gushed out ; and with an agonized moan he commenced scratching them convulsively with his hoof until they were completely entangled. The trumpets gave a signal for a change in the bloody drama. Hitherto the bull alone had been the assailant ; he was now in his turn to bo the suiferer and the assailed. Some of the chulos having laid aside their cloaks proceeded to arm themselves with banderillas, light darts which have a barbed point, and are adorned with fluttering papers of variegated colours. The chief art in placing the hande- rilla is to make the bull attack. If he do not, this operation, like the final office of the matador^ is full of danger ; for a capricious motion of the horns by a cowardly bull is infinitely more to be dreaded than the straightforward career of a chiro. The brave bull in question was one of this last description. With a dart, therefore, in each hand, one of the tinitus, now become handerillero, l)laced himself before the bull, and invited him to the attack by brandishing his weapons. When at -last the bull rushed with closed eyes at his antagonist, the banderillero likewise ran to meet him, and directing the darts at each side of his neck, allowed the horns of the animal to pass under his right arm, whilst he ran away to gain the security of the lobby, or to get a new supply of banderillas. With the repetition of this tor- ture, the bull became madder than ever, rubbing his neck against the boards of the barrier in the vain hope of alleviation — a hope which was set at nought by his own ijl-directcd exertions, or by the malice of those in the lobby, who would reach over and force the darts deeper, SPANISH BULL-FIGHT. 69 ting until at last the persecuted beast bounded foaming and frantic about the arena. Tlic bravery of the bull, though fatal to the life of more than one victim, can never avail to save his own. Nor can the torments he has suffered be urged in allevia- tion of his destiny. The laws of the I'la/.a are inexor- able. The corrffjidor is seen to wave his handkerchief, the trumpets blow a warlike blast, for the matador. Tile man who now entered the lists at the sound of the trumpet was no other than the principal matador of Spain — Manuel Romero by name, if my memory serves me. lie was a short man, extremely well made, though inclining to corpulency, with small regular features, a keen sure eye, and such an air of cold-blooded ferocity as became one whose business it was to incur danger and death. The dress of Romero was that of a 7/wJoy covered with more than the usual quantity of lace and embroi- dery : his hair combed backward, and platted into a flat queue, was surmounted by a black cocked-hat. In his left hand he held a sword, hidden in the folds of his ban- ner, which was fastened to a short staff. The <}olour of this banner was red, deepened here and there by the bloody stains of former combats. Romero did not enter with the air of one who knew his own force and despised his adversary ; nor as though he had to hide a faint heart under a careless brow ; but with a fearless, determined, yet quiet step. Having ap- jiroached the box of the corregidor^ he took off his hat and made a low o])eisance ; then returned the salutations which greeted him from the whole circuit of the amphi- theatre. This done, he threw his hat away, brushed back a few hairs which had escaped from the platting of his queue, stretched his limbs to ease the elastic tightness of his costume, and then, taking his well-tried blade from beside the banner, displayed a long straight Toledano^ such as was once worn by cavaliers and crusaders. Meantime the chtdos were occupied in running before the bull, and waving their cloaks in his eyes, in order to J I'ff I t (T I, ^ !■ I? 1 ( \ ! I I '. ! i^ . 70 8PANTSJI BULL-FIGHT. «xcite his declining ferocity. In this way the bull was enticed towards the spot wlicre the matador awaited him. The latter holding out the banner, allowed the animal to nish against it, sconiingly astonished at its little opposi- tion. This WU3 twice repeated ; but on the tliird time the matador lield the banner projecting across ILs body, whilst with his right hand extended over the top, he poised and directed the sword. Here is the Ifjt and most interesting moment of the who'o contest. The multitude once more rise upon the benches. All eyea are bent upon the glittering weapon. The bull makes his final career ; tiie banner again gives way before liim ; his hoTVB pass closely beneath the extended arm of the matador^ but the sword which he held a niomcnt before, is no longer seen — it has entered full length beside t} tly bellowing to the extremity of the arena, and there fall and die. But the animal which had this day sustained the contest so nobly was courageous to the last. lie continued to rush again and again with l)lind fury at the matador^ who each time received the blow on his de- ceptive buckler, laughed scornfully at the inipotent rage of his victim, and talked to him jestingly. The admira- tion of the audience was now complete, and cries, wiiLst- ling, and the cloud of dust which rose from the trampled benches, mingled with the clang of trumpets, to proclaim the triumph of the matador ! A few more impotent attaclcs on the part of the bull, and his strength began to pass away witli the blood which flowed fast from his wound, spread itself over his shoulder, and ran dov. n his leg to sprinkle tlie dust of the arena. At lengtli he can no longer advance ; the motion of his head becomes tremulous and unsteady : he bows to his fate, pauses for a moment upon his knees, and then with a low moan settles upon the ground. At this moment a vulgar murderer canio from behind tho i i SPANISIi DrLL-FIOHT. 71 i ull, ■' '\ 00 d 'r| his M . of 9 the S he 1 fies. M At 9 tho 9 barrier, wlierc he had liithcrto remained in security. He caught the animal by the left horn ; then aiming a cer- tain blow witii a short wide dagger, he drove it deep into the spine. A convulsive shudder for a moment thrilled over the whole frame of the victim— in another he had passed the agony. At this moment the gates on the right were thro\STi open, and three mules rushed in, hamessr'l abreast, and covered with bells, ilagH, and feathers. Their driver hastened to fasten a strap round the horns of the dead bull, and dragged him to wJiere the earcasses of the two horses lay. Having tied a rope about their necks, he lashed his team into a gallop, and the impatient beasts Btirred up a cloud of d\\ t, and left a wide track to mark the course which had bcon parsed over by the conqueror and the conquered. The canalla, too, had jumped into the lists to sport with the novilhs^ unmindful that the animal which to-dav furnished them with amusement, would to-morrow supply them with food ; now jumf»ed upon him, greeted him with kicks, ami even fastened uj)- upon hioi tail. Trumpets had announced the entry of the Imll ; trumpets are again heard at his departure. But who can rccogsiise the proud beast which a f< a' minutes before overturned every thing l)«fore hiio ia ti»* unreuist- ing carcass which now sweeps th«' arena ! Scarcely had the gate closed, w hen the trumpets once more soumled, and n. novi/io emftoiudOf or young bull, with balls on the ends of his horns, was let "nto the lists to be baited l»y the ragged nbble. Now begins a most singular scene. The bull, taunted by the waving of jackets, cloaks, and manias, pursues and tramples upon one, tosses another into the air, and dragging a third along by the cloak, at length escapes with a portion of the tatters hanging to his horns, to the infinite amuse- ment of all except the sufferer, who, if he be not hurt, is beset and banged, for his clumsiness, by the ragged uiOD- tles of his companions. A Year in Spain, by a Young American* ^n...u^ .^ ■?»«■ ■Waller- M VBS ^ U' l. ! i it A MAN AM) tKlKn <'(>MIUT. TiiF noxf flivnc wns of a nioro awful rlmrnrtrr. A innn ont(M*0(l iho nrcna Mnncd only \\'\\]\ n lonfj; Ixnilc, n!\(l rloil\o«l in nhovi iis«MH. wliit'h <'\lrinlr»| only IinlT wnv »lo\vn iho fliiuhs. 'Vhc instrument. \vInoh \w wirldcd in his right hand was a hravy hhidp, nonu'lhing; liko tlio ooiiltorofa jdoni)!), aho»H two fret h»nj»-, and Inlly tlirco inohoa wid«\ gradually : .owardw tho hfuidlc, witli which it torn\rd a right angh'. This UinTi' is usrvith groat ch^xtority hy tlu' ('o»irgs, hring swung; round in tho hand l)ororo tlio hlow is inlliolod, and thou hn>nght into oonfaot >viih ih(> «d»joot inton«h'd to ho RtruoK, with a toroo and ( iVoot truly aslonishing-. Tho ohanijMon who now lucsontod hinisoH" hoforo tin* rajah was ahont to ho opjiosod to a tigor, whioh ho volunti'orod to onoountor ahnost nako«!, and arniod ojily with tho woa]ion which I have just th'scrihcd. lit' \\t\n rather tall, will, a slight liguro, hut his chc^t was deep, and his anus wt>rc long and nuiscular. His logs wen* thin, yot tho actitui of tho nnisch's was porcoplihlo wilh every inov(Mnont, while (ho froodojn of his gait and tho few contortions ho ]>orfonncd preparatory to Iho hazard- ous enterprise in which In* was ah«>u( to ongag<\ showd that he poss(sso«l unooninion activity, conil)in«>d with no ordinary «lcgreo of strength. The expression of his countenanoo was ahj^olutoly suhlinio, when ho g;avo the signal for the tiger to ho lot loose ; it was tlw very con- centration of moral energy, tho in«lcx of n high and settled resolution. His hody glistened with tho oil which had heen rnhhod over it to promote tho elasticity of his limhs. Ho raised his ann for several nionienty ahove his head when he made tho signal to admit his enemy into tho arena. Tho bars of a larg-e iron vn^c were instantly lifted from ahove ; a huge royal tig:or sprang forward and stood before the Coorg, wavin^j his .4 A MAN ANT) TiaP.fl COMnAT. 78 •■•'IS wcro Willi tlio iinl- ) no his the •0!l- an<1 oil city cntH his ii;or hid tail Hlovvly hnckwanl and forvvani, crncMng tho hair up- on if, ani;h one of the int<'rval.s. A lighted match was put into tlie hands »d' th»! (Joor^, the h/irH wero again raised, and the eraekerH ignited. 'J'he tiger now rhirted into tlie arena with a terrihie yell; and wiiilo tho crackers wero exploding, it h'npettentot and Door oljserved his footsteps in the sand. The word was again to horse. The lion's course appeared to be towards the mountain which we had left. K , with a party of IJoors and soldiers, galloped straight up the nearest declivity, while 1 with a smaller number rode round a projecting edge of the hill into a deep ravine, to which he might have retreated. Wiih my party I had been too late : he had been just brought to bay as he was commencing his descent on the opposite declivity of the hill, but 11 delayed the attack un- til we should arrive to witness the encounter; meanwhile the dogs amused him. The ascent by which we could reach tlie sumuiit was steep and rugged, but our horses were accustomed to such, and with whip and spur we urged them on. Whoever has seen the African lion at bay would assuredly say the sportsmen could never behold a more stirring scene in the chase. There he was seated on his hind-(]uarters, his eye glaring on a swarm of curs yelpin;^ around him ; his dark shaggy mane shook around his gigantic shoulders, or with his paw tossed ia the air the nearest dog, more apparently in sport than anger. We arranged j)nliininaries. Tlio horses were tied together in a line, taking care to turn their heads from the direction where the lion was at bay, and like- wise that they weje to the windward of him, lest his 78 LION-nUNTINO IN SOUTH AFRICA. scent should scare tlicm into flight. The retreat behind the livinff wall is the Boor's last resource if he should advance on them, that his indiscriminate fury may fall upon the horses. Some of the Boors are excellent marks- men, and the Hottentot soldiers are far ^rom being det, picable: yet many a bullet was fired ere he was slain. Fired by the wounds he received, his claw was no longer harmless: one dog he almost tore to pieces, and two more were destroyed ere he fell. At each shot he rushed forward as if with the intention of singling out the man who fired, but bis rage was always vented on the dogs, and he again retired to the station he had left. The ground appeared to be bathed in blood. Every succeed- ing attempt to rush forward displayed less vigour and fury, and at last, totally exhausted, he fell ; but still the approach was dangerous. In the last struggle of his expiring agony he might have inflicted a mortal wound : cautiously approaching, he was shot through the heart. Twelve wounds were counted in his head, body, and limbs. He was of the largest size, and allied in appear- ance to the species which the Boora called the black lion. We claimed the skin and skull — the Bushmen the carcass, which to them is a delicious morsel ; and the Boors were satisfied with knowing that he would commit no farther depredations on them. On another occasion we roused two on the summit of a low atony hill. They were deliberately descending on one side as we reached the top, and amid a shower of bullets, they quietly crossed a plain to ascend another. We followed, and they separated : we brought them to bay in succession, and slew both. It appears to me, from what I have seen and heard, that a lion once wounded will immediately turn upon his pursuera; but 1 am of opinion that he seldom attacks man, generally shuns his vicinity, and that he has none of the reported partiality for human flesh. In the district I have described, and of which a description was necessary to show that we encountered liim upon clear and open ground, the various kinds of A TIOER HX7NT ON ELEPnAITTS. lion were originally very numerous. The Boors enumer- ated three — the yellow, grey, and black. Their numbers are very much diminished, principally, perhaps, from their retreating beyond Orange River to an unoccupied country, although many were also destroyed by the Boors. It has been said that the lion lives in the plains : the African huntera almost always seek him in the mountains ; and occasionally one or two will not shun the encounter, if armed with their long and sure rifles, which on almost all occasions they carry. One instance more, and I am done. A party of officers, a few years previous, along with some Boors, discovered a lion, lion- ess, and two cubs, within a sliort distance of Uerianus Craal, on the frontier. The lion dashed forward to pro- tect his mate and young ones, and attempted to defend them by shielding them with his body, until the officers, moved by his magnanimity of conduct, entreated that he might not be destroyed ; but the Dutchmen were inexora- ble, and they killed him : the cubs fled and the lioness followed ; but all were found dead of their wounds the succeeding day. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, lit of ff on Br of ther. n to rom will ion Jty, an ha red of A TIOER ntmr on elephants. The 1st of March will always be a dies notanda in my sporting annals, as the day on which I first witnessed the noble sport of tiger shooting. The Nimrods of our par- ty had, ever since we entered upon the Dooab, been zealously employed in preparing fire-arms and casting bullets, in anticipation of a chase among the favourite haunts of wild beasts, the banks of the Jumna and Ganges. Some of the more experienced sportsmen, as soon ai they saw the nature of tlie jungle in which we were «a^ 80 A TIGER HUNT OX ELEPHANTS. camped, presaged that there wore tigers in the Deigh- bourhood. Accordingly, whilst we were at breakfast, the servant informed us that there were some gongwalas, or villagers, in waiting, who had some khubber (news) about tigers to give us. "We all jumped up and rushed out, and found a group of five or six half-naked fellows, headed by a stout young man, with a good sword bjr his side, and bearded like fifteen pards, who announced himself as a jemadar. As usual in like cases, all the natives began to speak at once, in a Veluti-like tone, and with vehement gesticulations. The young jemadar, however, soon silenced them with a " Chup. teeree !** &c. and then gave us to understand that a young buf- falo had been carried off the day before, about a milo from the spot, and that their herds had long suffered from the depredations of a party of three tigers, which had been often seen by the cowherds. At 4 p. M., (so late an hour that few of us expected any sport,) Lord Combermcre and nine others of oui party mounted elephants, and taking twenty pad ele- phants to beat the covert and carry the guides and the game, proceeded towards the swamp pointed out as the lurking place of the buffalo-devouring monsters, Sancho, the jeniadar-hurkarah of the quarter-master- general's department, insisted upon leading the cavalcade, mounted on his poney. This strange old character— who obtained his nom de guere from the strong simili- tude he bears to his illustrious prototype, both in the short, round, bandy proportions of his person, and the quaint shrewdness of his remarks — served under Lord Lake in the Mahratta war, and has ever since distin- guished himself as the most active and intelligent of the intelligence department. Almost the last act of Lord Combermere, before he left India, was to obtain for the faithful Sancho a snug barataria, in the shape of a little jaghire, a possession which had long been the object of his ambition. This noted individual now spurred on before our par- I a ^1 A nOER HUNT ON ELEPHANTS. 81 ister- ijfi •^ [par- ty, mounted on his piebald palfrey, (or helfry, aa his namesake would have called it,) with his right arm bared, and his scimitar flourishing in the air. The jungle was in no place very high : there being but few trees, and a fine thick covert of grass and rushes. Every thing was favourable for the sport. Few of us, however, expecting to find a tiger, another man and myself dismounted from our elephants to get a shot at a florikan, a bird of the bustard tribe, which we killed. It afterwards proved that there were two tigers within a hundred yards of the spot where wo were walking. We beat for half an hour steadily in line, and I was just beginning to yawn in despair, when my elephant suddenly raised his trunk and trumpeted several times, which, my mahout informed me, was a sure sign that there was a tij^er somewhere " between the wind and our nobility." The formidable line of thirty elephants, therefore, brought up their left shoulders, and beat slow- ly on to windward. We had gone about three hundred yards in this direc- tion, and had entered a swampy part of the jungle, when suddenly the long wished for tally-ho ! saluted our ears, and a shot from Captain M confirmed the sporting Eureeka! The tiger answered the shot with a loud roar, and boldly charged the line of elephants. Then occurred the most ridiculous, but most provoking scene possible. Every elephant, except Lord Combermere's, (which was a known staunch one) turned tail, and went off at score, in spite of all the blows and imprecations heartily bestowed upon them by the mahouts. One, less expeditious in his retreat than the others, was over- taken by the tiger, and severely torn in the hind leg ; whilst another, even more alarmed than the rest, we could distinguish flying over the plain, till he quite sunk below the horizon. The tiger in the meanwhile, advanced to attack his lordship's elephant ; but, being wounded in the loins by Capfuxii M.'s shot, failed in his spring, and shrunk back IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. (/. ^.^ S 1.0 I.I i^ lM |2.5 ■^ i|2-2 1^ IS I. .. ■UUu L2 H2.0 1.8 1.25 111 1.4 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WMSTH.N.Y. 14SS0 (716) •7r4S03 iV ^ 4^ o 6^ roduce was, that after giving him an angry shake, hy which she made l.er fmgs meet more closely in his tiesh, her pace was quickened. From the excru- ciating pain thus produced he fainted away, and remain- ed totally unconscious of what was passing for some mi- nutes, when, recoverinjr a little, he determined to try the et^ect of another shot in a ditVerent place ; so getting the remaining pistol out of his girdle, ho pointed the nui77.1e under tho hlade hone of the shouhler, in the di- rection of the heart, and once more fired, when tho ti- gress fell dead in a moment, and neither howled nor struggled after sho fell ; neither had ho power to call out for aid, though he heard his friends approaching, and wa.s fearful that they might pass the spot without discovering where he lay. Through mercy he recover- ed from his wounds, and was living when I left India, although he was quite lame ; the sinews of his thigh being dreadfully lacerated by the fangs of the tigress. d A LION HUNT. The hunting of an African lion is described with in- finite spirit by Mr. Pringle, who was a settler on the eastern frontier of the Cape colony. " One night," says he, " a lion, that had previously purloined a few sheep A MON miNT. 87 fistola ' his CMj)- lio wcak- iit Inigth ivt'tin^ it cflfct it •0 closely 10 cxcru- I ronmin- Hoine nii- d to try getting nted the 11 the di- 1 the ti- kvled nor yv to call •oaching, without rccovcr- iffc India, lis thigh gress. with in- p on the it," says vv sheep out of my kraal, rainc down and Killcl jny rieH not carry oft' his ]>r<'y» usually conceals himself in the vicinity, and is very a|»t to he dangerMis hy firowling about the placo in fiearcli of more game, I resolved to hav(! him destroy- ed or disbxlged witliout delay. I therefore sent a mes- flcnger round tln^ location, to invite all who were will- ing to assist in the cr)terj)risc, to repair to the place of rendezvous as speedily as ]»osHible. In an hour every man of the party (with the (jxception of two plucklesa fellows who were kept at home by the women) af>pear- cd ready mounted and armed. We were also reinforced hy about a Mior, fttnl sfrock not tholion, fts it nftorwnnls proved, hut ft p;rvi\i ]»I(»ck oT ra] sfone, beyond wliicli lie was ftctmiliy lyin^^. WhetJicr ftny of tho shot ^rnzcd him is uncert/iin, hut with no other Wftrning thnn ft furious ^rowl, forth ho holtod iVom tlie 1)URh. 'I'ho pusinnninioufl Flastuftrds, in piftco of now pourino: '» thoir volloy npon him, instftntly turned ftnd fl(Ml holtcr-skcltor, loftving liim to do his ph'ftsnro upon tho defcncohvss Scots; who, with empty g-uns, weretum- Minp^ over cftcli otlior, in their liurry to cscftpc the clutch of tho rftmpnnt savftjTo. In ft twinkling hn wfts upon them, ftnd with one stroke of his paw dashed tlio near- est to the ground. The scene wfts terrific ! There stood the lion with his paw npon his prostrftte foe, looking round in conscious power and pride upon the bands of his ftssailants, and with ft port tho most noble and im- posing that cftn ])c conceived. It was the most magnifi- cent thing I ever witnessed. The danger of our friends, however, rendered it at tho moment too terrible to en- joy either the grftnd or the ludicrous part of the picture. We expected every instant to see one or more of them torn in pieces ; nor, though the rest of the party were standing within fifty paces with their guns cocked and levelled, durst we fire for their assistftnce. One was lying under the lion's paw, and the others scrambling towards us in such a way as to intercept our aim at him. All this passed far more rapidly than I have de- scribed it. But luckily the lion, after steadily survey- ing us for a few seconds, seemed willing to be quits with us on fair terms ; and with a fortunate forbearance (for which he met but an ungrateful recompense), turned calmly away, and driving the snarling dogs like rati fi'om among his heels, bounded over the adjoining 90 A LION HUNT. thicket like a cat over a footstool, clearing brakes and bushes twelve or fifteen feet high, as readily as if they had been tufts of grass, and abandoning the jungle, re- treated towards the mountains. ** After ascei-taining the state of our rescued comrade (who fortunately had sustained no other injury than a slight scratch on the back, and a severe bruise in the ribs, from the force with which the animal had dashed him to the ground), -we renewed the chase with Hotten- tots and hounds in full cry. In a short time we aga'n came up with the enemy, and found him standing at bay under an old mimosa tree, by the side of a moun- tain stream which we had distinguished by the name of Douglas Water. The dogs were barking round, but afraid to approach him, for he was now beginning to growl fiercely, and to brandish his tail in a manner that shewed he was meditating mischief. The Hottentots, by taking a circuit between him and the mountain, crossed the stream, and took a position on the top of a precipice overlooking the spot where he stood. Another party of us occupied a position on the other side of the glen ; and placing the poor fellow thus between two fires, which confused his attention and prevented his retreat, we kept battering away at him till he fell, unable again to grapple with us, pierced with many wounds. " He proved to be a full grown lion of the yellow variety, about five or six years of age. He measured nearly twelve feet from the nose to the tip of the tail. His fore leg below the knee was so thick that I could not span it with both hands ; and his neck, breast, and limbs appeared, when the skin was taken off, a complete congeries of sinews.' » 01 CAPTURE OF A CAYMAN. The Indian had made his instrument to take the cay- man. It was very simple. There were four pieces of tough hard wood, a foot long, and about as thick as your little finger, and barbed at both ends ; they were tied round the end of the rope, in such a manner, that if you conceive the rope to be an arrow, these four sticks would form the arrow's head ; so that one end of the four united sticks answered to the point of the arrow- head, while the other end of the sticks expanded at equal distances round the rope. Now it is evident, that if the cayman swallowed this, (the ot lerendofthe rope, which was thirty yards long, being fastened to a tree,) the more he pulled, the faster the barbs would stick into his sto- mach. The wooden hook, if you may so call it, was well-baited with the flesh of the acourie, and the entrails were twisted round the rope for about a foot above it. Nearly a mile from where we had our hammocks, the sand-bank was steep and abrupt, and the river very still and deep ; there the Indian pricked a stick into the sand. It was two feet long, and on its extremity was fixed the machine ; it hung suspended about a foot from the water, and the end of the rope was made fast to a stake driven well into the sand. The Indian then took the empty shell of a land tor- toise, and gave it some heavy blows with an axe. I ask- ed why he did that. He said, it was to let the cayman hear that something was going on. In fact, the Indian meant it as the cayman's dinner bell. Having done this, we went back to the hammocks, not intending to visit it again till morning. During the night the jaguars roared and grumbled in the forest, as though the world was going wrong with them, and at intervals we could hear the distant cayman's. The roar- ing of the jaguars was awful ; but it was music to the dismal noise of the hideous and malicious reptiles. ? '4 \^ . - ■ \ . < I' I? i i ^H! it i i ! tjt u 93 CAPTl^nR OF A CAYMAN. Al)o\it half-pnst fivp in flip iimrniiij;, flio Tndinn stole off 8il(Mitly to take n look n< tlio bait. On arrivinjr at the place, he sot iii> a tronioiuloii«» Hhf)ut. We all juniurd out of our haininooks, and ran to him. The Indiana got there before me, for they had no clothes to put on, and I lost two minutes in looking for my trousers and in slip- ping into them. We found a cayman, ten and a-half feet long, fast to the end of the rope. Nothing now remained to do but to get him out of the water wilhout injuring his scales. Wc mustered strong : there were three Indians from the creek, there was my own Indian, Yan Daddy Quashi ; the negro from ISIra. Peterson's, James; Mr. U. Edmon- Btone's man, whom I was instructing to preserve birds, and, lastly, myself. I informed the Indians that it was my intention to draw him quietly out of the water, and then secure him. They looked and stared at each other, and said I might do it myself, but they would have no hand in it ; the cayman would worry some of us. On saying this, they squatted on their hams with the most perfect in- difterence. The Indians of these Avilds have never been subject to the least restraint ; and I knew enough of them to be aware, that if I tried to force them against their will, they would take off, and leave me and my presents un- heeded, and never wturn. Daddy Quashi was for applying to our guns, as usual, considering them our best and safest friends. I im- mediately offered to knock him down for his cowardice, and he shrunk back, begging that I would be cautious, and not get myself worried ; and apologising for his own want of resolution. My Indian was now in convei*sation with the others, and they asked if I would allow them to shoot a dozen arrows into him, and thus disable him. This would ruin all. I had come about three hundred miles on purpose to get a cayman uninjured, and not to carry back a mutilated specimen. I rejected their pro- I -. 1 CAfTirnR OP A CAYMAN. 99 ion Lcm im. red to ro- *, I \ i position with firmness, and darted a disdainful rye iipon the hxlians. I)n|>oi(mii(y. I oordiinly fol( Nomowhiif ntiootn- fo"(ahl(» in (his si(»in(ion, nn«l 1 (hm),i>h( of ('nh(>niH on tho o(hor sith' of (ho Slyx foiry. Tlio pooph* imiIUmI (ho onyniMn (o (ho surffjoo; ho plunged furiously ns hoou an ho nrrivod in (hoso nppor rogions, nnd innno(lin(oly wont holow ngnin on (hoir f^hioUoninu' (ho ropo. I Hfiwonougli not to fall \n lovo at. (ns(, Hiiih(. I now (old thorn wo would run m11 risks, nnd havo him on land innnodiatoly. Thoy pullod again, and o\it ho oamo. This was an in- toros(ing momon(. I kopt, my posilion (irn>ly, with my cvo fixod stoadfastiv on him. Hy this (imo tho oavn\an was within two yards of mo, I s-nv ho was in a stato o( foar and por(urha(i«»n : 1 in- stantly dro]i]>od tho mast, 8]u-ung up, anmpany, ho began to plunge furio\isly, and lashed the sand with his long and powerful tail. 1 was out o( reach of the strokes of it, by being near his head. He continued to plungo and strike, and n\aus, that it was some time before they heard mo tell them to pull me and my beast of burden farther in land. I wa.** nppivhensive the rope might break, and then there would have been every chance of going down to the re- gions inuUr water with the cayman. Tho people now dragged mc above forty yards on tho & TlAriTnQfMKf; at MrRR»NA. 05 •nn'l. Affcr rrponi'Ml u((o^npf^ to rcifn'tu Ii!h lihorfy, \hf) caytiwm ir(>,v(< in, /iml iMcnfrM' f rnri'iuil t.lironjirli fxliauH- M»»n. I now iiiniin|j^«'fl tf» fif up h'm j?iWH, nrwl ^rnly ^f- (| li'm fun* r«"ri in tin; p'mition I IumI lnl, HonriMli round Mount, Vosuviiifl \\'\{]\ n\\ iinnirtisp ponulnfioii, oonsiitu- tionnlly o'(.orrl\il nn«1 ^^onr'rMlly |>roH|M'ron3 in IIhmv cir- outnstjuiors. Sonio of Hirsc ulnoos nrv nof, <»nlv bnilt ovrr nnoiont inUMTod oilios, hwi Iwivi* iKtMUHrlvcM, in mo- dern nuos, «'xnori(MUMMl H»o violcncr of Iho voIchum, and !)rrn mIjoIIv or i>arllMllv dcslnnofl l»v vasl riviMwof lava. This is |vn'(ioulnrly iho cnsi^ >viil» tho town of tho Tori'o «lol (irooo, uliorc tlio roa«1 is docply rut tlnou^li n IhmI of lava, an«l >vlu^ro otlior broad I)roniont«uirs, aro found on ovory sido of tlio town. T\\o inhahilants, hoMovor, in thoir attaohniont to tho sj)o1, havo always ])orsiatpd in huihling thoir houses ahovo thoso that havo h(>on huricd, iluis kooping u|>, as it woro, a struggh> witli ono of tho nwM fearful powers of nature. Mount Vesuvius is little more than four tuilea from the city of Naples, an«l owing to tho heaiitiful transpar- cney of the atmosphere, seeuis even at a shorter distance. It rises quite alone from the plain, declining on one side to the shore of the sea, an«l on tho other towards a chain of the Apennines, which \o\\y mountains are seen several miles in its rear. Its base occupies an irregular npaoo, which mav ho ahout twelve miles all round; it rises conioally to tho height of sonunvhat more than .*U)()0 feet, where it terminates in two mantilljc or hroast/S — one of which is called Somma, tho other of which is tho groat orator of tho volcano. From its form and entirely iso- lated vsitua+>on, it looks liko some vast tumulus or sepul- chral harrow. Except whore broken by some chavsms, and covorod by courses of tho lava which have not yet had time to acquire a superficies of soil and vegetablo matter, Mount Vesuvius is cultivated (and inhabited as wo havo men- tioned) for two-thirds of its height. The soil that accu- mulates over, and is mainly produced by volcanic matter of different natures, is wonderfully fine, and admirably MOfTNT VRRlJVIfffl. ion rotind iisiitu- 'ir cir- ' iMiilt it) nui- o, atirl >r lava. > Torro ImmI ot* v\< nwi- nlo iho inul on 'vor, in is{p(l in biiriod, of ilio na from •ftnR|M\r- liatuncr. a t'liain Bovoval r npaco, it riHcs KM) tVct, -one of u> groat rly iHO- r sopiil- rrrd by time to Mount ro mcn- [it accu- nmttcr mirably «■■«, -^« fi(tr«l for vinoynrtlfl. lloro nro |>ro«1nr<»fl tlio far-famrd Lnrlnynuil'hriHli, (lir (irtco, and otiior winofl of superior •pialily. Tho asill(i ami Rnlpluir, and in colour of a vollowish wliito. Tho funios of tho 8iil|)hur, mut tho pnnj:>ont mnoUo fron\ tho littlo holoR ai tho hottoni of tho orator, oonipollcMl a vory hjxmmIy rotroat, Mhioh was nm«lo with Ronio «liirionlty, and without any groat ad and lava ofton find issuo from the sides of the moun- tain far hoU)w ; ^>hile tho superior funnel only ennts Bn\oko. In tho winter of IU20, a mouth waa formed at the foot of the superior eono, and nearly on a level with the hennitage of San Salvatore. To use a homely comparison, this vent waa not unlike the mouth of a baker's oven ; hut a eonsiderahle stream of lava, which, >vlien in a state of perfect fusion, resembles molten iron, issued fn>m it, an*l ilowed down a cliasm in the direction of the Torre del (Jreeo, the place we have described as having so often sufVored from eruptions. A singular and deliberate suicide was committed here. An unhappy Frenclnnan walked up the mountain one night, and thix^w himself in at the source «)f this terrific stream. The men w ho conducted him siiid afterwards, that they had observed that he had a quantity of gunpowder about his person! He scarcely could have needed its agency, for the intense iire must have consumed him, skin, flesh, and bones, in a very few seconds. But though the erup- tions of Mount Vesuvius do not always proceed from tho grand crater, it must also be said that those that do are by far the most sublime in their efl^ects, and that nothing can well be imagined more pictui-esque and striking tliaa MOUNT KTNA. 10» t flmt • Utile •i(»r (»f iiul in 1ph\ir, nt the ctlTIlt, nt any (. must \\\\i of ts form ,; «ml, le Bul»- i/, iho moun- r emits i*mc(l at ol with [liomoly tU of a which, n iron, cctiou ihcd as ar and happy it, and stream, at they r about agency, 1, flesh, c ei up- on! the do are lothing ig than ir to Rpo hy tji^ht \hr Riiinmit of that l»»ny coiio crowned l»y fire, MM it IVrf which it often happens that the moon throwH a In-oad path of HJlvery li^lit in one f snow itain, a ["believe tower led me jovered higher fcd than the othor. My jrnido nfTirfned that it wan ; and he was in the ris^bt, for it sccinrd to mo to snrpnss the first in ibo wbob* bci^^bt of V<"Huvins. The road liecamo more iiiiitiMl, and ibo acclivity /^cntl(;r. Wo coasted ab>n^ a torrent of bbick biva, tbo more singnlar as its olovatioM was from n^hi to ten foot, and pcrpendicnlar like a wall, which clearly proved to mc tliat this matter in flowing, is not in perfect fusion, as ^rrat part of th*? su))stances wbicb it dra^s alon^ arc sufficiently hard to prevent their mcltii)^ ; and that they are like the l)asalt, detached from the immenso vaults which, during many ages, supported this natural for^e. The sky began to adorn itself in the east, and wo perceived the house called Lcs Amjlnis. After a light breakfast, I dirocttd my steps towards the place where, according to custom, the curious go to behold tbo rising sun. I now bent my stops towards the last summit, which, covered with a light white smoke, secerned to move away from the impatient traveller. We walked nearly a mile on almost horizontal lava, or, to speak more correctly, on striated scoriae or dross, which made a crackling noiso under our feet ; and soon after on a swamp of snow, whero wo found a large stone, three feet in diameter, of the species of those called volcanic balls, which the mountain throws up in great eruptions ; but it is only a grain of metal in comparison witji the vol- cano which ejected it from its bosom. In fine, we monnted the last cone which supports the crater, the ashes and the stones under our feet. The cold was ex- cessive, but exercise kept us warm. I quitted my cloak, and rolling up some pieces of lava in it, I left it on the mountain. At last we arrived on the borders of the crater ; but the wind was so violent that I could scarcely cast a glance over it. I was thrown down ; and had it not been for my Cicerone, I might have rolled to the foot of the declivity which had given us so much trouble to ascend. Fastened, and lying down at th» 108 MOUNT ETNA. ridge of the crater, I considered it at my case, and braved the fury of yEolus and Vulcan. It is ft vast aperture, having four summits of different heights, ratlier more than a mile in width ; and, on ac- count of its inequalities, I should think it about four in circumference. It is divided into two craters, by a cone risen from its centre, and which forms a crater itself, the cone of which is not very rapid. The ancient aperture is united to this cone by a gentle declivity, where has pro- bably been formed within a recent period a small crater, a partial volcano, a perfect truncated cone, from which issues a great quantity of smoke. The general aspect of the crater is much less dreary than that of Vesuvius ; the substances surrounding it arc not so black, but have rather the colour of potter's earth. I could not make the entire tour of the crater, on account of the violence of the wind, which prevented me also from descending into the interior, which appeared to me less rapid than that of Vesuvius, Gourbilion's Travels in Italy, I I r ASCENT OF MOUNT HECLA. Wk rose at an early hour on the third of August, with the intention of ascending this mountain, whose fame had spread through every quarter of the globe. At ten o'clock we were ready ; and having collected our horses, we mounted them, and began our expedition under cir- cumstances as favourable as we could wish. Our guide proposed leaving the poor animals standing till we re- turned ; but though they would not have stirred from the spot, we sent them back, not choosing such valuable and steady servants should remain a whole day without food. We now proceeded a considerable way along the edge of a stream of lava, and then crossed it where it MOUNT nECT.A. 109 sravod ffercnt on ac- four in a cone elf, the rture is as pro- crater, I which spect of 3uviu8 ; lit have Lake the lencc of ing into lan that Italy* st, with se fame At ten horses, idcr cir- ir guide I we re- ed from mluahle without ong the here it % was not very broad, and gained tlie foot of the south end of the mountain. From this place we saw several mounts and hollows, from which the streams of lava from below ai)pcar to have flowed. While we had to pass over rugged lava we experienced no great difficulty in advancing ; ])ut when we arrived at the steepest part of tlie mountain, which was covered with loose slags, we sometimes lost at one stej), by tlieir yielding, a space that had been gained hy several. In some places we saw collections of J^lack sand, which, had there been any wind, must have proved exceedingly troublesome. The ascent was now very steep, but the roughness of the sur- face greatly assisted us. Before we had gained the first summit, clouds sur- rounded us and prevented our seeing farther than a few yards. Placing implicit confidence in our guide, we proceeded ; and having attained what we thought was the nearest of the Miree summits, we sat down to refresh ourselves, when he informed us that he had never been higher up the mountain. The clouds occasionally dividing, we saw that we had not reached the soutliern summit. After having passed a number of fissures, by leaping across some, and stepping along masses of slnga that lay over others, we at last got to the top of the first peak. The clouds now became so thick, that we began to despair of reaching farther. Indeed it was dangerous even to move ; for the peak consists of a narrow ridge of slags, not more than two feet broad, having a precipice on each side many hundred feet high. One of these pre- cipices forms the side of a vast hollow, which seems to have been one of the craters. At length the sky cleared a little, and enabled us to discover a ridge below, that seemed to connect the peak we were on with the middle one. We lost no time in availing our- selves of this opportunity; and by balancing ourselves like rope-dancers, we succeeded in ptissing along a ridge of slags so narrow that there was hardly room for our feet. After a short but very steep ascent, f 110 MOUNT HEOLA. wc gained the highest point of tliis celebrated moun- tain. Wo now found that our usual good luck had not for- saken us ; for wc had scarcely l)egun to ascend the middle peak, wlien the sky became clear, and we had a fine and full view of the surrounding country. To- wards tlie nortli it is low, except where a Jokul hero and there towers into the legions of perpetual snow. Several large lakes apj)eared in different places, and among them the Fiske Vatn was the most conspicuous. In this direction wc saw nearly two-thirds across the island. The lUacfall, and the large Jukuls stretched themselves in distance to a great extent, presenting the appearance of enormous masses of snow heaped up on the plains. The Skaptaa Jokul, whence the great eruption which took place in 17H3 broke forth, bounded the view towards the north-east. It is a large, extensive, and lofty mountain, and appeared to bo covered with snow to the very base. On the side next us, at a distance of about forty miles, we plainly dis- cerned a black conical hill, which very probably may be the crater that was formed during the eruption. The Torfa, Tinfialla, and Eyafialla Jokuls, limit the view of the eastern i>art of the country. Towards the south, the great plain we had passed throuiih seemed as stretched under our feet, and was bounded by the sea. The same valley was terminated, towards the west, by a range of curiously peaked mountains — those in the neighbour- hood of Thingualla, and to the north and west of the Geysers. The middle peak of ITecla forms one side of a hollow, which contains a large mass of snow at the bottom, and is evidently another crater. The whole summit of the mountain is a r:dge of slags, and the hollows on each side appear to have been so »nany different vents, from wiiich the eruptions have liom time to time issued. We saw no indication that lava had flowed from the upper part of the mountain, but our examination, MOUNT lIECLii. Ill moun- not for- cnd the ^c had a jr. To- :ul hero .1 snow. !C8, and picuous. ross the tretchcd cscnting heaped nee the :c forth, I a large, i to be ide next nly dis- may bo n. The view of nth, the trctched lie same ■ange of ghbour- of the lollow, )m, and of the m each s, from issued, om the nation, from the frequent recurrence of fog, was unavoidably confined. After we h • 1 satisfied ourselves with viewing the sur- rounding country, we began to collect some specimens of the slags, and perceived some of them to be wann. On removing some from the surface, we found those below were too hot to be handled ; and on placing a thermo- meter amongst them, it rose to 144°. The vapour of water ascended from several parts of the peak. It had been remarked to us by many of the inhabitants, that there was less snow on Ilecla at this time than had been observed for many years. We supposed, therefore, that the heat now noticed might be the recommencement of activity in the volcano, rather than the remaining eftects of the eruption of 17<)v;. The crater, of which the liighest peak forms a part, does not much exceed a hundred feet in depth. The bottom is filled by a largo mass of snow, in which various caverns have been formed by its partial melting. In these the snow had become solid and transparent, re- flecting a blueifsh tinge ; and their whole appearance was extremely beautiful, reminding us of the description of the mngic palaces in Eastern talcs. At the foot of the mountain, at nine o'clock, the ther- mometer stood at 60° ; at eleven it was 55" ; and at four, on the top, at 39". Our descent was greatly retarded by thick fog, and we found it much more hazardous than the ascent. We missed our way, and were under the necessity of passing the lava we had crossed in our way up, at a place where it had spread to a much greater breadth, and, from the rapidity of the slope along which it had flowed, had become frightfully rugged. Sir G, Mackenzie's Travels in Iceland, I 112 Ji l>Ksrl.M INTO Tlir, CHArrU or \ volcano in ST. P-rPTATIA. Having |>nr(!»Uon of iho vinfiotnn, >vo iiroBooiHjMl iho un«i(M'l»»1ving oil foof, oijfrrinjj; innnnlinloly l!»oof^, iinponrliMMo, foivstH ol' MiiiiIjmI 1iV('s, whioh olotlio olv3 jiivnllv in\pot1o«l o\ir pvogivss, but >vo pilnoyo nn^jmriMl io walk iufo it. Ibit what a nia^nHioont wc\w lay lioloro uh ! — ln»- luovliatolv at o\iv fool a broad Itoli ol' Avuw foroRt, with givon nnil nissot Iwios of vavions sluuK's flowing in tlio rxj>an«lo«l boanis of \'l\o u\«Mi»lian sun, irnivsiMitcd ftii in^ponotraMo barrior bolwoon us and I bo ' buHy world' wbiob lav bon>nd it. Tbo nioro livolv and divorBitiod forms of tbo |>lan(ations, brokon by ibislors of trooa mid dotaobo«i dwollings, tbo tlislant town, and tbo many variod objoots ibat «lonoto aotivo indiistry, doriving dis- tinotnoss in tbo distanoo n\oro from assooialion tban from positive a^suranoo — tbo wbito fringo oC tbo foaming Hurf tbat bivko upon tbo sboros, and tbo onoircling ocoan bonniling tbo rango of sigbt, fonnod a piotui*o of ox- qui>ilo combination and olVoot. Snob ji piotnro m I.Mvo* rranon. f«i(h, «nvl tMns«lciuT, nil o»ir own. Tbo dos<\Mit into tbo orator, ultbongb loss fatiguing, was no loss dit^ionlt tban tbo coni*so to arrivo at its sum- mit, being in some plaeea nearly perpendicular ; and Mfety r«pot, {\\Q in- for our I'nnch- luoR tlin vjilk »f»rrt ml — Im- |r8t, with r in tl\o nt(Ml an y world' orpiluMl numy iug diH- »an iVoni ing surf ig oc(uin of ox- US tiguing, its sum- ir ; and he trees rocks, ilfTinnf'' whif'h wnro Rovrml rfiffon-frprs, and otliorH of grralrr «limrMsi«»iiq ; »in»l wo Irivoliiniarlly flfopprd orca- flionnllv ♦'» iiH'fisiiro thn ohstnicMons in »nir irtiirii. Wo >vrn\ iKMvrvor, amply ('nmpriiflafod for our froulde upon nwhin^ fiorn, wlnTn vpgpiatlon was rfpiftlly d<»us(\ Muil of iimrli Inr^pr jrrowth, donyiii|( \m Mio privilr/'o of iimUifig a f/iir raliuiaio of Mu> cxfrnt of ih« Irvcl it orrupit'fl, lnit wliifli appoarrd floinrwhcro ahout tw«M»ly nvvvH. Tlicn' wcro Rovrral wild banana or plan- tain plants, and ronVc trcrs, intermixed with lar^e^ prudnetiniifl in wild luxuriance ; and near to a flinall eleiir pool of wnter wtood n silk eotton tree, on whose trunk were earved sevenil names, amofig wliieh was flmt of the (ifMinnn niiHwionary, Seh.vart/, who viflitcd the Hpiit many years heforn us. Wrst India Sketch- Hooh. THlt nilKAT FAnTUQirAKK AT IJRnoW. Tnir, eity of I.ishon, tho capital of IWtngal, w/is abnoftt entirely destroyed hy an eartlnpnike on the Isk of No- vetnher l7Ar», and the awful oecMirrence f Unds on record fw ants rtn, were at once killed or miserably mangled. Such of their congregations as escaped, in- cluding many of the dignitaries of the church in their e]iiscopal and purple garments, rushed to the side of the river as to a place of comparative safety. Priests in their sacerdotal vestments, ladies half dressed or with tattered clothes, and an immense concourse of people of all ranks and ages, were here assem] led, supplicating Heaven upon their knees, and with agonising shouts repeating their " Miscracordia men Dios»* In th« midst of their anguish and their devotions, the second great shock cam on, nearly aa violent as the first, com- TIIR OKE\T KAllTHQITAKK AT MSHON. 116 to the le Bett- er was ^y. A ISO Wft9 icrcftaed ul then •8 fouu- couHtor- Lich vio- il crusU- troots to out that cts of 90 reuilorcd iroad the to cHcapo uul made ^([uavc in :h of fall- llen, and oil. The and from with do- le act of iiiiscrahly aped, in- ill their do of the riests in or with people of plicating Lg fihouta In the lie second irst, com- ph^tinp; the work of th'struction. The gcJioral ccmster- natiou wan at its lieight, and tlio Rhii«;kH and cries of *^ Misernrordin'" rcs(nm(le«l from one end of the town to the other. The church on the top of St. Catha- rine's hill, alter rocking to and fro, fell with a tremen- dous crash, and kiUed great numhers who liad sought protection on that eminence. Ihit the most terrihle conse(|uence of the second shock fell on those at the wa- ter's side. On a sudden, the river, which at that l)art is four miles ])road, was observed to lieave and swell in a most unaccountable manner, since no wind was stir- ring at the time. In an instant there appeared at some small distance a large body of water rising like a moun- tain, which came on foaming and roaring, rushing to- wards the shore with fearful impetuosity. The crowd attempted to retire before it, but the motion of the wa- ters was too quick to permit escape in so dense a throng. The volume of water burst upon them and sucked back into its tremendous vortex, amid shrieks and waitings, the defenceless multitude. A magnificent quay that had been recently built of rough marble at a vast ex- pense, was at this moment entirely swallowed up with all the people on it who had crowded there for refuge. Numberless boats and small vessels, likewise, which were anchored near it, and were full of persons who had # thrown themselves into them with the idea that the I place of greatest safety was on the water, were ail swept away, leaving no trace behind. In the meantime, the ships in the river were tumbled and tossed a1)out as in a storm ; some broke their cables and were carried to the other side of the Tagus ; others were whirled round with incredible swiftness ; several large boats were turned keel upwards ; and all this ter- rible commotion occurred without any wind, which ren- dered it the more astounding. According to the account of d shipmaster who encountered the concussion and sur- vived its dangers, the whole city of Lisbon, as surveyed from the river, was waving backwards and forwards like I ,» 1 ■" I- i'- i < 'ji t 110 Tim nnEAT t^AnrnQTrMcr, at Lisnorr. thfi poft >vl»rii Iho wind fiiHt boiriiH to vino ; ilmt the api- taiiou oftlio oiirtli wms ro groat, oven nndcr tlio river, tlinl it thrrw up Isi^ larq^o niuhor IVoin tlie mooring:, ami carrioon this ovont. \v:- saw flio quay with tlio whoU^ ooncourso of nooplc it .)m it sink rin^, mi two prc- hfc neem at o coni]iU'to wiia soimv i tbo water rapidity, river waa round that alternato repeated extensive IS general- nied to be 8 ravages, orablo and he flames y appeared lilagration )terranean as to other A.S is usual , every al- lated with wax tn])rrH and lanipf, and ihese fnllinK'^'*'' *^»'' ^"T"- tuins and ♦iniher work duriiiK Hm' conviilsion, soon k'ivc n heginnifiK to tlie fire. The neiuhlionrin^^ Iniildiiigs rnnght tlie flames nlrendy kiiidUd l.y kitehin nn'l other fires in private dwrlliiigs, and spread thrm throughout fherify. The destindion of life and property durinfr the eniHlii-ration wast jihiio'-t e«|ua) tssessions of the wealthy, the restraints of law and police, were all rqnally demolished, and society was redueofl to its ])riniitive state. 'J'he eouniry about liisboTi was crowded with fugitives in a slate of destitu- tion, whilst the refuse of the inhnbitants, with the prisoners who had broki n loose from the jails, spread themselves in all directions to ])iJlagc and destroy. When the earthquake and the fire which succeeded it had brought confusion to its height, the terrors of hu- man violence were added. A report was sj)rcad amongst the people that orders liad been given to cannonade the town to stop the fire, so that all who Iiad ])roperty gave up the idea of saving any f)ortion, and with tlie mem- bers of their families endeavoured with all speed to gain the fields. Thus the city wjis abandoned })y all the re- spectable inhabitants, and the mob of ruffians and de- mons was left uncontrolled to perpetrate every diaboli- cal outrage. In so terrilde a crisis, two fortunate circumstances preserved Lisbon from total destruction and depopula- tion. The first was the escape of the king, Joseph I^ who made good his retreat, together with the queen and the royal family, from the palace the moment before it W ' il ■i itrt T1TR (ItlRAT RAUTllQUAKK AT MsnOIf, foil, nn«! took rofiip;o in tho rovnl gnnlms at Urlrm* IliTo for oijrht otio niiniHtor, tho famous Sebastian (^arvalho, IMarqnis of romhal, who took instant and olTootivo inojisnros to ])nt tho royal |>ro- rt^gativo in foroo. A |n'oolan\ation was issnod, in whioh woro tho followinjj; cxprossions : — " J lis majosty exhorts all liis suhjoots to imitate tho ])ions omloavours with which tho kinu: strives to remedy the elfects of tho public calamity which has so much grieved his paternal heart. His majesty invites them, in conseciuence, to return to tho quarters of their ancient capital, and co- operate with him in its re-establishment. His majesty ixdios with conti«lence that it will not bo necessary to re- sort to force to compel his faithful subjects to acquit themselves of duties so essential and imperative." The soothiuu: terms of this proclamation, were, however, not alone relied u]>on. Orders vero for\var«lod to the governors of all tho towns and j)laces situated on tho ditVerent roads from Lisbon, to permit no one to pjiss without a particular permission from government. In consequence of this, guards were ])osted on all sides, who stopped and drove back the wretched fugitives. 13ut tho Marquis Pombal had to combat the pre- judices and superstition of the peo])le, in inducing theii voluntary return to the city. The reforms that he had previously effected in tho enormities of ecclesiastical power and wealth, had excited, as was natural, the violent animosity of the priests and monks. They now took advantage of the public disorder, and of the awful dispensation which had just occurred, to preach that it was a judgment upon the sacrilegious impiety which had prompted an interference with their privileges and gains. TlIK OUR AT RAnTIIfiTTAKE AT Ll«HON. 110 m'lvoH ill Ih oxhor- > n»Htoni- nlluHioii H»im tlio lioing in Htrr, tlio l)rtl, who oyjil |) re- in wliioli I exhorts virs with Is of iho imlcrnal iienco, to , ftnd co- I injijosty iry to re- \>o acquit e." The ever, not to the I on the to pass lent. In ides, who ihe pre- ing tlieii he had siastical iral, the hey now he awful 1 that it hich had ad gains. I Tlioy pointed out the ininintrr, nnd even the king him- Belf, as the object of divine wrath, and disposed the niiiids of the peoph», overpower«'d hy so gnuit a calamity, to disrep^ard tl»e royal injunetionR. The interference of the pope's nuncio w/m alone ahh^ to restrain the unholy zeal of this turhnlent h»»dy, and to conip'»nring parts, crying out that the end of all things had arrived, and that the earth itself was to he envelojied in destruction. It required a courageous mind to grapple with all these dithcultics, since the fanaticism of a multitude, depressed hy misfortune, is easily cxcitcp for some hours in the day, during which I made several in- effectual attempts to construct a covering for my head. At times I thought my brain was on fire from the dread- ful effects of the heat. 1 got no fruit those two days, and towards evening felt very weak from the want of nourishment, having been forty-eight hours without food ; and to make my situation more annoying, I slept that evening on the banks of a pretty lake, the inhabi- tants of which would have done honour to a royal table. With what an evil eye and a murderous heart did I regard the stately goose and the plump waddling duck as they sported on the water, unconscious of my pre- sence! Even with a pocket pistol I could have done execution among them. The state of my fingers pre- vented me from obtaining tlie covering of grass which I had the two preceding nights ; and on this evening I had no shelter whatever to protect me from the heavy dew. On the following day, the 20th, my course was nearly north-east, and lay through a country more diversified by wood and water. I saw plenty of wild geese, ducks, cranes, curlews, and sparrows, aleo some hawks and cormorants, and at a distance about fifteen or twenty small deer. The wood consisted of pine, birch, cedar, wild cherries, hawthoni, sweet- willow, honeysuckle, and sumach. The rattlesnakes were very numerous this day, with horned lizards, and grasshoppers : the latter kept me in a constant state of feverish alarm from the similarity of the noise made by their wings to the sound of the rattles of the snake when preparing to dart on its prey. I suffered severely during the day from hunger, and was obliged to chew grass occasionally, which allayed it a little. Late in the evening I arrived at a lake upwards of two miles long, and a mile broad, the 4 i ADVENTURE ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 129 general bumed jt. The St .p for veral in- ny head, le dread- ,\vo days, ! want of without ,g, I slept le inhabi- .yal table. ?art did I ling duck : my pre- have done ngers pre- ss which I s evening the heavy w^as nearly diversified ese, ducks, awks and or twenty •ch, cedar, iuckle, and lerous this the latter from the the sound dart on its im hunger, Uy, which Vrived at a broad, the shores of which were high, and well wooded with large pme, spruce, and birch. It was fed by two rivulets, from the north and north-east, in which I observed a quantity of small fish ; but had no means of catching any, or I should have made a Sandwich-island meal. There was, however, an abundant supply of wild cherries, on which I made a hearty supper. I slept on the bank of the nearest stream, just where it entered the lake ; but during the night the howling of wolves and the growling of bears broke in terribly on my slumbers, and "balmy sleep" was almost banished from my eyelids. On rising the next morning, the 21st, I observed on the opposite bank at the mouth of the river, the entrance of a large and apparently deep cavern, from which I judged some of the preceding night's music had issued. I now determined to make short journeys for two or three days in different directions, in the hope of falling on some fresh horee-tracks, and, in the event of being unsuccess- ful, to return each night to the lake, where I was at least certain of procuring cherries and water sufficient to sustain nature. In pursuance of this resolution, I set out early in a southerly direction from the head of the lake, through a wild barren country, without any water or vegetation, save loose tufts of grass like those already described. I had armed myself with a long stick, with which during the day I killed several rattlesnakes. Having discovered no fresh tracks, I returned late in the evening, hungry and thirsty, and took possession of my berth of the preceding night. I collected a he^p of stones from the water side, and, just as I was lying down, observed a wolf emerge from the opposite cavern, and thinking it safer to act on the offensive, lest he should imagine I was afraid, I threw some stones at him, one of which struck him on the leg : he retired ; "ing into his den ; and after waiting some time in fearful suspense to see if he would re-appear, I threw myself on the ground, and fell asleep ; but, like the night before, it was broken by the same unsocial noise, and for up- mo ADVENTT RF, ON TIIK COLT'MniA niVF.R. I J* i ; I It wards of two hours I sftt up waiting in anxious rxpccta* tion the return of day-light. The vapours from th« lake, joined to tlie heavy dew, luul penetrated my frnil covering of gingham ; hut as the sun rose, I took it oft', and stretehed it on a roek, where it quiekly dried. My exeursion to the soutliward having proved ahortive, [ now resolved to try the east, and after eating my simple hreakfast, proeeedcd in that direction ; and on crossing the two small stivams, had to pe!u*trate a country full of *dark woods and rankling wilds,* through which, owing to the immense quantities of underwood, my pro- gress was slow. My feet too were uncovered, and, from the thorns of the various prickly jilants, were much lacerated : in conseciuence of which, on returning to my late hivouack I was ohliged to shorten the legs of my trousers to procure handages for them. The wolf did not make his appearance, hut during the night I got occasional starts from several of his hrcthren of tho forest. I anticipated the rising of the sun on the morning of the 2nd, and having hecn nnsucccasful the two preceding days, determined to shape my course due north, and if possible not return again to the lake. During the day I skirted the wood, and fell on some old tracks, which re- vived my hopes a little. I slept this evening by a small brook, where I collected cherries and haws enough to make a hearty supper. The country through which I dragged my tired limbs on the 24th, was thinly wooded. My coni-se was north and north-east. I suiFered much from want of water, having got during the day only two tepid and nauseous draughts from stagnant pools, which the long drought had nearly dried \ip. About sunset I arrived at a small stream, by the side of which I took my quarters for the night. I did not awake until between eight and nine o'clock on the morning of the 26th. My second bandages having been worn out, I was now obliged to bare my knees for fresh ones; and after tying them round my feet, and .HC^i«l^ ■':A I. Via cxpectft* ^ from tb« od my frnil took it off, (Iriod. My abortive, I r my simple on crosaiupf I'ountry full ugh whicli, (0(1, my pro- d, nnd, from wore much irning to my » logs of my Mie wolf did night I got hren of the morning of ^vo preceding north, and if |ng the day I s. which re- l)y a small Is enough to ugh which I linly wooded. Iiffered much lay only two pools, which »out sunset I >\i I took my nine o'clock |dages having my knees for ly feet, and AbVKNTrriK ON Tint COM'MniA RIVKR. 1,11 ;* aj; faking a copious draught from the adjoining brook foi breakfast, 1 recommenced my joyless journey. My course was nearly nortb-nortb-east. I got no water during tbe day, nor any of the wild cherries. Some slight traces of men's feet, and a few old horse-tracks, occasionally rrossed my path : they proved that human beings sometifues at least visited tbat part of tlie country, and for a monjent served to cheer my drooping 8j)irits. About dusk an immense wolf rushed out of a tbick copse a short distance from the pathway, planted him- self directly before me, in a threatening position, and ap- peared determined to dispute my passage. He was not more than twenty feet from me. My situation was des- perate, and as I knew that tbe least symj»tom of fear would be tbe signal for attack, I presented my stick, and shouted as loud as my weak voice would permit. He appeared somewhat startled, and retreated a few steps, still keeping his piercing eyes firmly fixed on me. 1 advanced a little, when he commenced howling in a most appalling manner; and supposing his intention was to collect a few of his comrades to assist in making an afternoon repast on my half- famished carcass, I re- doubled my cries, until 1 bad almost lost the power of utterance, at the same time calling out various names, thinking I might make it appear I was not alone. An old and a young lynx ran close past me, but did not stop. The wolf remained about fifteen minutes in tbe same position ; but whether my wild and fearful excla- mations deterred any others from joining him, I cannot say. Finding at length my determination not to flinch, and that no assistance was likely to come, he retreated into the wood, and disappeared in the surrounding gloom. The shades of night were now descending fast, when I came to a verdant spot surrounded by small trees, and full of rushes, which induced me to hope for water; but after searching for some time, I was still doomed to bitter disappomtment. A shallow lake or pond had H 132 ADVENTURE ON THE COLUMBIA RITER. been there, which the long drought and heat had dried up. I then pulled a quantity of the rushes and spread them at the foot of a large stone, which I intended for my pillow ; but as I was about throwing myself down, a rattlesnake coiled, with the head erect, and the forked tongue extended in a state of frightful oscillation, caught my eye immediately under the stone. T instantly re- treated a short distance ; but assuming fresh courage, soon despatched it with my stick. On examining the spot more minutely, a large cluster of them appeared under the stone, the whole of which I rooted out and destroyed. This was hardly accomplished when upwards of a dozen snakes of different descriptions, chiefly dark brown, blue, and green, made their appearance ; they were much quicker in their movements than their rattle-tailed brethren, and I could only kill a few of them. This was a peculiarly soul-trying moment. I had tasted no fruit since the morning before, and after a painful day's march under a burning sun, could not procure a drop of water to allay my feverish thirst. I was surrounded by a murderous brood of serpents, and ferocious beasts of prey, and without even the consolation of knowing when such misery might have a probable termination. I might truly say with the royal psalmist that " the snares of death compassed me round about." Having collected a fresh supply of rushes, which I spread some distance from the spot where I massacred the reptiles, I threw myself on them, and was permitted through divine goodness to enjoy a night of undisturbed repose. I arose on the morning of the 26th, considerably refreshed, and took a northerly course, occasionally diverging a little to the east. Several times during the day I was induced to leave the path by the appearance of rushes, which I imagined grew in the vicinity of lakes ; but on reaching them, my faint hopes vanished : there was no water, and I in vain essayed to extract a little moisture from them. Prickly thorns and small ...w had dried ,nd spread tended for If down, a the forked on, caught stantly re- iirage, soon y the spot ired under destroyed, of a dozen fk brown, were much attle-tailed • ttt. I had nd after a could not thirst. I pents, and onsolation probable 1 psalmist about." |s, which I massacred permitted Indisturbed |nsiderably pcasionally luring the appearance ricinity of vanished : extract a md small ■^ ADVENTURE ON IHE COLUMBIA RIVER. 133 M sharp stones added greatly to the pain of my tortured feet, and obliged me to make further encroachments on my nether garments for fresh bandages The want of water now rendered me extremely weak and feverish ; and I had nearly abandoned all hopes of relief, when, about half- past four or five o'clock, the old pathway turned from the prairie grounds into a thickly wooded country, in an easterly direction ; through which I had not advanced half a mile when I heard a noise resembling a waterfall, to which I hastened my tottering steps, and in a few minutes was delighted at arriving on the banks of a deep and rapid rivulet, which forced its way with great rapidity over some large stones that obstructed the channel. After oflFering up a short prayer of thanksgiving for this providential supply, I threw myself into the water, forgetful of the extreme state of exhaustion to which I was reduced : it had nearly proved fatal, for la^^ weak frame could not withstand the strength of the ciirrent, which forced me down a short distance, until I caught the bough of an overhanging tree, by means of which I regained the shore. Here were plenty of hips and cherries; on which, with the water, I made a most delicious repast. On looking about for a place to sleep, I observed lying on the ground the hollow trunk of a large pine, which had been destroyed by lightning. I retreated into the cavity, and having covered myself completely vith large pieces of loose bark, quickly fell asleep. My repose was not of long duration ; for at the end of about two hours I was awakened by the growling of a bear, which had removed part of the bark covering, and was leaning over me with his snout, hesitating as to the means he should adopt to dislodge me ; the narrow limits of the trunk which confined my body preventing him from making the attack with ad- vantage. I instantly sprung up, seized my stick, and uttered a loud cry, which startled him, and caused him to recede a few steps; when he stopped, and turned ill 1.14 A!>VF,NTrnF, ON TIIR (Ol.rMntA UIVRIl. about, ni)|)ar(MUly «loiil»(fnl wliotlior ho would con' iro nu attack. Ho (lot(>nniunl ou au a.ssault; but Am-mii^ \ bad not Nuniricnt Hln>ngtb to uirct such an uinM|U(il rnoniy, I thoiight it |>ru(hMit to rdn'at, ami act'onlingly HoranibbMl up au avaH cnabK'd to annoy his muzzb* and chivvfl in Hucli n nuujuer with m j stick as efVcctually to check hiB j)rogresH, After scraping the bark sonu» tiujo with rage and disnppointnicnt, he gave up the task, aiul retired to my h\ic ilonnitory, of whicli he took possession. '(Mic fear of falling off, iu case I was overcotue by sleep, induced me to ruike several attempts to descend ; but each attcnipt aroused iny ursine ceutinel ; and after many inefVcctual efforts, I was obliged to remain there during the rest of the night. 1 fixed myself iu that part of the trunk from which the principal grand branches forked, and which prevented me from falling during my iilful slumbers. On the morning of the 27th, a little or sunrise, tlie bear quitted the trunk, shook himsel , ^aat a longing, lingering look" towards me, and slowly disa])pcar
      rehensive of his return, 1 descended, and resumed my jo\irncy through the woods in a north-north-east direc- tion. In a few liours all my anxiety of the preceding night was more than compensated by falling in with a well-beaten horse-path, with fresh traces on it, both of hoof\i and human feet : it lay through a clear open wood, in a north-east course, in which I observed numbers of small deer. About six in the evening I arrived at a spot where a \>arty must have slept the preceding night. Round the remains of a large fire which was still burn- ing were scattered several half-picked bones of grouse, partridges, and ducks, all of which I collected with eco- nomical industry. After devouring the flesh, I broiled ADVENTURE ON THE COrtiMnTA lUVER. mft on ir(^ L frning I I iin pcurccly fliiffice*! in give iiic a in<»derate meal, Imt yet allonled a most Hca^onable relief to my famishe*! Iiody. I enjoyed a eoirifortable Hl«!ep this night vlnnv to Mie fire, niiinterrnpfed by any noe- tnuiai viHitor. On the morning of the 2Mth I R<'t off with eheerfnl spiritH, fnlly inipressed with the hope of a speedy termination to my Kiilferirigs. My conrse was n«»rtherly, and hiy through a thick wood. liatc in tho evening I arrived /it a Mfagnani pool, from which I mere- ly moistened my lips; and having covered niyself with Homo l)irch bark, sh>pt by its side. I rose early on the morning of the iiUtli, and followed the fresh traces all day through the wood, nearly nortli-east by north. 1 j)a8scd the night by tho sidj; of a smnll stream, where I got a sufhcient supply of hips and cherries. On the .'W>th, the path took a more easterly turn, and tlic woods became thicker and more gloomy. I had now nearly consumed the remnant of my trousers in bandages for my wretched feet, and, with the exception of my sliirt, was almost naked. The horse-tracks every moment ap- j>eared morranched off in different directions: one led up rather a steep hill, the other descended into a valley, and the tracks on both were equally njcent. I took the higher; but after pro- ceeding a few hundred paces through a deep wood, which appeared more dark from the thick foliage which shut out the rays of the sun, I returned, apprehensive of not procuring water for my supper, and descended the lower path. I had not advanced far when I imagined I heard the neighing of a horse. I listened with breathless at- tention, and became convinced it was no illusion. A few paces farther brought me in sight of several of those no- ble animals sporting in a handsome meadow, from which I was separated by a rapid stream. With some difficul- ty I crossed over, and ascended the opposite bank. On advancing a short distance into the meadow, the cheering sight of a small column of gracefully curling ;i h^ •It 136 THE PICARD FAMILY. smoke announced my vicinity to human beings, and in a moment after two Indian women perceived me: they instantly fled to a hut which appeared at the farther end of the meadow. This movement made me doubt whe- ther I had arrived among friends or enemies ; but my ap- prehensions were quickly dissipated by the approach of two men, who came running to me in the most friendly manner. On seeing the l^^cerated state of my feet, they carried me in their arms to a comfortable dwelling cover- ed with deer-skins. To wash and dress my torn limbs, roast some roots, and boil a small salmon, seemed but the business of a moment. After returning thanks to that great and good Being in whose hands are the issues of life and death, and who had watched over my wan- dering steps, and rescued me from the many perilous dangers J encountered, I sat down to my salmon, of whicii it is needless to say I made a hearty supper. Adventures on the Columbia River* Extracted in Chambers' Journal THE PICARD FAMILY.* The colony of Senegal, on the coast of Africa, was cap- tured from the French by the English in the year 1809, but was ceded to its former masterp at the peace of 1816, when the French government fitted out an expedition, consisting of the governor and other functionariei, to take possession of the restored settlement. The vessels dis- patched for this purpose (May 1816) were the Medusa frigate, the Loire store-ship, the Argus brig, and the Echo corvette. On board of the Medusa, there was a family of the name of Picard, whose story, from the suf- ferings which they endured, has excited no small degree of sympathy. Monsieur Picard, the father, was an aged man, and a lawyer by profession, who had sought for, and with difficulty obtained, the situation of resident at- • From «' Chambers' Journal.** THE PICABD FiHILT. 137 gs, and in me: they arther end oubt whe- )ut my ap- pproach of st friendly feet, they ling cover- om limbs, ;emed but thanks to the issues my wan- y perilous >almon, of pper. '1 River* Lirnal was cap- )rear 1809, e of 1816, xpedition, ei, to take easels dis- Le Medusa and the ere was a n the suf- all degree IS an aged >ught for, sident at- torney at Senegal, where he had formerly been for seve- ral years. He was accompanied by his eldest daughter, Mademoiselle, and her sister Catherine, both children by a first marriage, and his wife and younger daughter^. ; the whole composino- a happy group, but ill calculated to en- dure the horroi-s which overtook the luckless expedition. During several days the voyage was delightful. All the ships of the expedition kept together; but at len,«»th the breeze became changeable, and they all disappeared from each other. The Peak of I'cneriffe was passed by the Medusa on the 28th of June, and soon the shores of Sahara came in sight. Off this low part of the coast of Africa lies the Arguin Bank, a sandy reef, dangerous to mariners, and which the ignorant and headstrong cap- tain of the Medusa, notwithstanding all the hints on the sui)ject, persisted in disregarding. In the meanwhile, the wind, blowing with great violence, impelled the ves- sel nearer and nearer to the danger which menaced it, A species of stupor overpowered the minds of those on board, and a mournful silence prevailed. The colour of the water entirely changed ; a circumstance remarked even by the ladies. About three in the afternoon of the 2d of July, being in 19^ 30' north latitude, an universal cry was heard upon deck. All declared they saw the sand rolling among the ripple of the sea. The captain in an instant ordered to sound. The line gave eighteen fathoms, but on a second sounding it gave only six. He at last saw his error, and hesitated no longer on changing the route, but it was too late. A strong concuss m told ti^at the frigate had struck. Terror and consternation were instantly depicted in every face ; the crew stood motionless, and the passengers were in niter despair. The account of the miserable shipwreck which ensued is already well knov. n. Not only the worst possible ma- nagement was displayed, but an absolute want of hu- manity and bravery. Tlie governor and other exalted functionaries attempted to leave the crew and humbler passengera to their fate, but were prevented by the ir * • i I. V l1 h I i 1 :| ,1 ' ! J :1 ■ ( mo TITK nCAim FAMtr.T. sol(lior8 ; at longtli a raft was forinrd ami covered with passengers, nearly all of whom ])eriHlied either hy ono another's knivcM, hy hun^;er, or by drowning; several hoats were also filled, l)ut only two were j)roperly pro- visioned ; and, in short, out oi' four hundred persons who were on hoard, only a few reached Senegal in the provisioned hoats, anmoiselIe, the eldest daughter, in her narrative, which we (jnotc in an abridged form), but how much was it lessened hy the feelings of our horrible situation ! Without water, with- out provisions, and the majority of us nearly naked, was it to be wondered at that we should bo seized with terror, on thinking on the obstacles which wc had to fjurmount, the fatigues, the privations, the pains and the sutivrings, wc had to endure, with the dangers we had to encounter in the immense ar.d frightful desert we had to traverse before wo could arriv .3 it our des- tination. About seven in the morning, a caravan was formed to ])enetrate into the interior, for the j)urpose of finding some fresh water. We did accordingly find some at a little tlistance from the sea, by digging among the sjind. Every one instantly ilocked round the little wells, which furnished enough to quench our thirst. This brackish water was found to bo delicious, although it had a sulphurous taste ; its colour was that of whey. As all our clothes were wet and in tatters, and as wc had nothing to change them, some generous officers of- fered theirs. ISly stepmother, my cousin, and my sister, were dressed in them ; for myself, I preferred keeping my own. We remained nearly an hour beside our bene- ficent fountain, then took the route for Senegal ; that is, THE riCARD FAMILr. 139 red with ■ by ono , Bcveral (ily pro- prrsoiis A in the al)lc to lay after ^er oviT- woro tho stitution. 3; c8(M»|)ed le eldest c in an [1 by tho er, with- iked, was zed with e had to ains and iigers we ul desert our dcs- ivan wafl urposc of igly find g among ho little r thirst. Ithough f whey, kd as we icers of- ly sister, keeping liir bene- that is, 1 . si . a*- A southerly direction, for we did not know exactly where that country lay. It was agreed that the females and children should walk before tho caravan, that they might not be left behind. The sailors voluntarily car- ried the youngest on their shoulders, and every one took tlie route along the const. JVotwithstanding it was near- ly seven o'clock, the sand was c|uitc burning, and we suf- fered sev( -nl; , walking without encountering any thing but shells, which wounded our feet. "On the morning of the JHli, we saw an antelope on the top of a little bill, wbich instantly disappeared before wo had time to shoot it. 'I'he desert seemed to our view one immense plain of sand, on which was seen not one blad'3 ^o who were desirou (jf leaving us drew their swords, and m^ fatlitr put his hand upon a poniard, with which he hadpiovichd hnnself on quitting the frigate. At this scene, we threw our calves in be- tween them, conjuring him rather t » n main in the de- sert with his family, than seek tiu' assistance of those who were, perhaps, leas humane than the Moors them- Belves. Several people took our part particularly M. Hdgnere, captain of infantry, who quitted the dispute by saying to his soldiers, * My friends, you are Frenchmen, and I have the honour to bo your commander; let ua 140 THE rirAni> FA»m,Y. tipvrr nbnmlon nn nnforhmjHo fimiily In 1o (o ho of nsp to Ihcni.' Tliia l»rlpf bnt onprgpH" R|>ppph onnRpd Hn»Rp fo Mnnh whn vvislipd to Ipnvp ns. All (hon joinp«l willi on to go to thp snudl hills (»f sand xvhiph woro npar thp poasi, to spp if any liprhs ponid ho fonnd tit for pating ; hnt wp only got poisitnons plants, among whioh wprp varions Uitids of pnphorhintn. Con- volv\ili of rt hright given parpeted the downs; hut on tasting ok tor moiv. They soon hronght haek a sufliciput quantity, wliich was equally distrihuted, and devoured upon the spot, so delicious had hunger made that food to Uv"*. I'or myself, 1 dpclare 1 never ate any thing with so much appetite in all my life. Water was also found in this place, hut it was of an ahominahle taste. After this tnily frugal rt^pnst, we continued our route. Tho heat was insnpportahle in the last degnH\ The sands on which >xe tr< «lc wcri» hurning ; nevertheless, several of us >valk(Ml on these scorihing coals without shoes ; and the females had nothing hut their hair for a cap. When we reached the «H\'»-shorc, we all ran and lay down among the weaves. After n^maining there some time, wo took our rout« aloiig tlic wet beach. On our journey we met m TIIK I'liAUl* FAMfF.Y. 141 loBprt, nn 'Ins l»ripf \visl«p«l fain, my- \\\i\ wnlk loin (liny llir wliole ninong u«, Is of panel 1 0011 Id I'o UR plants, m. i'on- «; but on »r as gall, ral oflicprs n about an liHtrtbutod R bunch of but AH ,his »n\n\\ nselvcs to pufliciont (Unourod that food hing with ilso found p. After Lite. The sands on several of loes ; and w. When i\n among wo took y we met wilh Rpvrrul Inrjrp rrabs, vvhirli wpro of eonsidj-mblp sf;r- vipp to us. I'ivpry now nnhss, at brpak of day wp had tho satis- I fart ion of finding none missing. About sunriw? wc lipId a littlo to the past, to get fartlipr into tho interior to find frpsh water, an»l lost much timo in a vain Rcarch. The country whieh wo now traversed was ft little less arid than that whi<'h wo had passed tho preceding day. The hills, the valleys, ami a vast plain of sand, were strewed with mimosa or setisitivo plants, presenting to our sij^lit a seeno wo Iwid never before Hcen in tho desert. The country is bounded as it were by n chain of mo\in- tains, or high downs of Hand, in the direction of north and south, without the Hlightest trace of cultivation. "Towards ten in tho morning, some of our companions were desirous (►f making observations in the interior, and they did not go in vain. They instantly returned, and tidd us they h.'ul seen two Arab tents upon a slight ris- ing ground. Wo instantly (lirect<'d our 8tef)8 thither. We had to ])ass great downs of sand very 8lij)pcry, and arrived in a large plain, streaked here and there with verdure ; but the turf was so hard and piercing, that we could scarcely walk over it without wounding our feet. Our presence in those frightful solitudes put to flight three or four Moorish shepherds, who herded a small flock of sheep and goats in an oasis. At lost we arrived at the tents after which wc were searching, and found in them three Mooresses and two littlo children, wlio did not seem in the least frightened by our visit. A negro servant, belonging to an officer of marine, interpreted be- tween us and the good women, who, when they hod 11 n** t\\)- \)r\)\\^ r\Mn V tN'!ini'«? tl t>l;<';'5 •. If W !\i \rM jii'imI, Mm! UoMf iiVHilfii'it lilt' ^^><>ni»\ \i r.>nt. A«< rt f.\)!Ui«» nl \\:( ^MUiHni ol ^^nllrf. X\:V' Vt1< ;1 ^^o.^V itin^^r) \\^\ \]\\\\\'A\\'t\ |>i«Oj>lr. MM fiHh. 1 l>.'\n>lH < >\ o ViiVi, wliiih j^.>^ w.MiM Mol t>|\i' Miu M^i^'i tw»>n<\ v\tv<-'vi W .' inn\\(>ill!\tr)v Iclliol ll\iMn, Ur«-.\u\^\nji i\\\A\ xw-wvh. <)\o |mH\ Ti )I in ^\ill\ 'iiM.r'd lNi'V'5 ,>v Vv;0^'i, \\hi\ ronilnrd'il \\\v\\\ to llnir i''nr;^>^>^>n>.'nf " W i> iVnntI •> M-^n in l)\r r!U\(|* \\\\<\ ^^^^ ^>>S'N \.'>K,lv Known nu f'jithrv in •^mi «•:»). \y\\i\ \t ln» '^J>«>Kx^ rt IWllr 1>>^n.'h, \\ I' \\rVi>;^l) 'MvncU \\\\)\ M'Hnni'sh inmt i>i <)>(' nur\|>. -rri on\^>1<\y\M^ lonn ono o \ onnu il"^''^'^^*^<'^ '<' S(>nt>!>«l. !l>v^, «h's»'o\ rvnyu ih\' ^^M^v \niof to t>(' tln^ «5tnno |>in\ ^oo1^ n^ft.^' nr.^wnn^ .! \\\i\\ i^\n ^~A)\y\\y-\-v)i, wwA to \\\\M v\i^Y^\\\i\\•'^o\"«lov\\\ii owv h,ii>\ t-!>t»^ : hi^ \V!>'» \t im Insi i)\M )w \>-.i<: p^nri>Mv-- ;in.^ hnn\;ino. :>y\A in^^tinitly \\\< iv\h\'\iv\\ ftn^«^n^i \^"^ ;> ln");v >^\\;)ntitv ot yw'yW j\\\\\ wittiM- l\vv x^i rtny r1\;^i*i:v Uo nUo \viip. Kv?^n«v 1ms wlijiion wonli! ywi ^llon )\ini tt> lotliio nilh \''hvivtt,'o «.>n><^ \>>ot. \'ho ^^^•1^'o ilpprrtvoi! Von ti'i\-V. i^nx^ th*" ol^«?\^\n-iit.y >n;>i!o n>» >it\0(Ky. \\\\v\ nr\<{ \>w\' \^^\^^h\otovi >ts j;>^o.^ nvul^t. rtn<\ wtivinu to l\is tout. iwM. • S)ivp 'in ^v,>^o<^ of tln^ v'hv\sti;n\>* !•« mNo i}t<' \^xvi %M t'ho Mnsvwlmon.* *' \\ t)try 'h«*^ t>n\M tN\^n> tho Moot-s, ivji;uno\! tl\o so:» nhotv. vtiVi i^xi-j-^nmii tl\o xvnto t>>v Sonx^^a.^'. ^^^^ tln\v \\i\y\ tW s!^tisf;^-tTon ot" pt^Avi\\n!i a sh'i^> ont rtt !*i\'>, to nhirh t)>o> w.'StV 5:\iT>.«»U. ** T]\o >oss\l )\x'n n\Ji rt|>|>tvrtol\ovl tttf. rtrUlfJ VWIII.f tif^ mlt'V Tut- oj<)r, WW \\\\ r Mm 1 to \vl\!»t \y\\v\ \\< : i\wA \\\'\^ \v\\\. «> NX n\MH' •finiilnUllv MfHr ♦!»'• fM't'4f, fllP M'.Mfq vtIim wfrr> wiMi m HtHMv flii>»n'U'lv<"4 ItilM M(i> M(«M,MfiM MWMffi fo If. ffi nl'Odt hiiHUtl liMiif we 'tt»\v (Ik'Mo f>|r-fif||y nK«il«ihififq rof Mffilfrfr, iMnlih. 'I'liN Irffpi- fiiiMMMfi""'! ft. nffi/ill linrr"! of Mm rnll. n ll<'»r(. (»r tvjiif, M lifilf M'-r"'- of lir'ifwly, ^"f'l 'i hiilrli j'licPMP. nit, lorliMifih' 'V'fif ! VV" wrT'' vf-ry (lt"jitoM«« of fpqilfvinir our /rrfiMlii'lo fo Mif {/"iifrotiM forn- nifiiitlnf of Ml" l^^lt^ luif lie Ifntfinfly '^'f oiif mo'I I'-ff. w^. Wo q»MVf. To ili'Mriilic oiif joy, nliihf ffilcinir thJM ri'pn^l. Is Irri- |iomm|I»Ip. MxpoMcd fo Mh« f'lprc" rnyM of /» vfrfifnl fliiri, rxlifnmli'd liv n loiiy; frjiin of piiflcrintr, d"(irivfd for n loiiir wliilc of Mic UM(> of Miiy kind of '<|tirifiionH li'jiior-^, wIhmi (Mir poi'Moim id' ufilcr, wine, nnd lir/indy, ffiint(l"d In our HloinmdH, wo liccMinn liI'v<'ry ono sfornffl fo fie liorn «i>niM IVoin M rondifioii fnidfimdioly and dcjofdod. *' Alioul six In Mio ovrnin(r, my f/iflior f'lndini^ fiirnwfdf oxlronudy fiilinniMl, wisliod fo rcsf, filnm»df. Wonllowrd fho niriivon fo inovo on, wliihf, my Rfcprnofdifr n,nd my- iKdf ronuiiiH'd iionr lilf?i, fuid Mio rosf, of Mm family ftdlowod wifli Mioir fiRsos. Wo nil fliroo soon ff II nsloop. WIioii wo awoke, wo woro nsfonisliod nt not seeing onr I liil 'fi ^ i I' i I V • ■ i ! |i i(" 144 THE nCARD FAMILY. companions. The aim wns Rinliing in ilio west. We saw several Moors approaoliing us, niountecl on camels ; ftnd my father reproached himself for liaving slept so long. Their appearance gave us great uneasiness, and we wished much to escape from thnm, hut my step- mother and myself fell quite exhausted. The Moors with long heards, having come quite close to us, one of them alightexl, and addressed us in the following words : * Be comforted, ladies ; under the costume of an Arah, you see an Englishman who is desirous of serving yon. Having heard at Senegal that Frenchmen were thrown ashore on these deserts, I thought my presence might he of some service to them, as I was acquainted with several of the princes of this arid country.' These noble words from the mouth of a man we had at first taken to he a Moor, instantly quieted our fears. Recovering from our fright, we rose and expressed to the philanthropic English- man the gratitude we felt. Mr. Garnet, tlie name of the generous Briton, told us that our caravan, which he had met, waited for us at about the distance of two leagues. He then gave us some biscuit, which we ate; and we then set off together to join our companions. Mr. Garnet wished us to mount his camels, but my stepmother and myself, being unable to persuade our- selves we could sit securely on Iheir hairy haunches, continued to walk on the moist sand ; whilst my father, Mr. Garnet, and the Moors who accompanied him, pro- ceeded on on the camels. We soon reached a little river, of which we wished to drink, but found it as salt as the sea, Mr. Garnet desired us to have patience, and we should find some at the place where our caravan waited. We forded that river knee-deep. At last, having walked about an hour, wo rejoined our com- panions, who had found several wells of fresh water. It was resolved to pass the night in this place, which seemed less arid than any we saw near us. The soldiers being requested to go and seek wood to light a fire, for the purpose of frightening the ferocious beasts which THE riCAHD FAMILY. 145 . W«9 anicls ; Icpt 80 SR, and y step- Moors , one of words : n Arab, ng you. thrown night he I several le words 1 to he a from our English- name of which he e of two I we ate ; ipanions. but my lade our- lannches, ly father, iiim, pro- a little it as salt snce, and caravan At last, »ur com- \\\ water. ', which soldiers fire, for Its which were heard roaring around us, refused ; hut Mr. Camet Essured us that the Moors wlio were with him knew well how to keep all such intruders from our camp. " We passed a very good night, and at four in the morning continued our route along the shore. Mr. Carnet left us to endeavour to procure some provisions. At noon, the heat became so violent, that even the Moors themselves bore it with difficulty. We then determined on finding some shade behind the high mounds of sand which appeared in the interior ; but how were we to reach them ? The sands could not be hotter. We had been obliged to leave our asses on tlie shore, for they would neitlier advance nor recede. The greater part of us had neither shoes nor hats; notwith- standing, we were obliged to go forward almost a long league to find a little shade. Whether from want of air, or the heat of the ground on which we seated ourselves, we were nearly suffocated. I thought my last hour was come. Already my eyes saw nothing but a dark cloud, when a person of the name of Borncr, who was to have been a smith at Senegal, gave me a boot containing some muddy water, which he had had the precaution to keep. I seized the elastic vase, and hastened to swallow the liquid in large draughts. One of my companions equally tormented with thirst, envious of the pleasure I seemed to feel, and which I felt effectually, drew the foot from the boot, and seized it in his turn, but it availed him nothing. The water which remained was so disgusting, that he could not drink it, and spilled it on the ground. Captain Begnere, who was present, judging, by the water that fell, how loathsome must that have been which I had drunk, offered me some crumbs of biscuit, which he had kept most carefully in his pocket. I chewed that mixture of bread, dust, and tobacco, but I could not swallow it, and gave it all masticated to one of my younger brothers, who had fallen from inanition. " We were about to quit this furnace, when we saw ■ 1 146 THE I'TCARD FAMILY. .'I! our generous Englishman npproacliing, wlio brought us provisions. At this sight I felt my stren^-^th revive, anlios. It was four o'clock in the afternoon before the boats of the goverament arrived, and we all embarked. Biscuit and wine were found in each of them, and all were refreshed. After sailing for an hour down the stream, we came in sight of St. Louis, a town miserable in appearance, but delightful to our vision after so much sufl^ering. At six in the evening we arrived at the fort, where the late English governor and others, including our THE PICARD family. 147 light ns ivo, and d on to accom- idv On i ftsh in f water, as excel- that we f on the 's march U as our ;d among 3 reposed ng before ere boats rty to the I. «*Duj- r the first ?sentcd it- ,th which I, the red- kers, who sed in ns latiate our lire being iving tra- Ithe river, ]th thoniy [before the embarked. Im, and all [down the miserable [r so much It the fort, lluding our :l generous friend Mr. Garnet, were met to receive us. My father presented us to the governor, who had aliglited. He appeared to be sensibly affected with our misfortunes : the females and children chiefly excited his commisera- tion ; and the native inhabitants and Europeans tenderly shook the hands of the unfortunate people : the negro slaves even seemed to deplore our disastrous fate. "The governor placed the most sickly of our compan- ions in an hospital; various inhabitants of the colony received others into their houses; M. Artigue obligingly took charge of our family. Arriving at his house, we there found his wife, two ladies, and an English lady, who begged to be allowed to assist us. Taking my sis- ter Caroline and myself, she conducted us to her house, and presented us to her husband, who received us in the most affal>le manner ; after which she led us to her dress- ing-room, where we were combed, cleaned, and dressed by the domestic negresscs, and were most ol)ligingly furnished with linen from her own wardrobe, the white- ness of which was strongly contrasted with our sable countenances. In the midst of my misfortunes my soul preserved all its strength ; but this sudden change of sit- uation affected me so much, that I thought my intellec- tual faculties were forsaking me. When I had a little recovered from my faintness, our generous hostess con- ducted us to the saloon, where we found her husband and several English officers sitting at table. These gen- tlemen invited us to partake of their repast, but we took nothing but tea and some pastry. Among these Eng- lish was a young Frenchman, who, speaking sufficient- ly well their language, served to interpret between us. Inviting us to recite to them the story of our shipwreck and all our misfortunes, which we did in few words, they were astonished how females and children had been able to endure so much fatigue and misery. As they saw we liad need of repose, they all retired, and our worthy Englishwoman put us to bed, where we were not long before we fell into a profound sleep." ^^^ i4n Tlir ri( AMD FAMILY. 'i A1onBi(Mir Pirnnl nn»l Itiw fatnily >vrrp now sottlod ; Imt Tiollnng h\\\ a srrios of misfortunos nftoiuhMl liiin, iliofirnt of whirh was H«o ny. l*oor Pioard, hrokon do\v!i \\\\]\ dis.asloi's and fannlv aOh'tMions, aftora nianfnl stnigulo as an attorney, a trader, and a cnltivator of cot- ton, at h^igih sank nn«h'r tlic complicated calamities which ])ressed upon him. He died, in an almost destitnte condition, of a hroken heart. " This last hlow (says tho narrator) ]d»nij)ed nie into a gloomy melancholy. I was indilVerent to every thing. I had seen, in three months, nearly all my rel.'itions die. A young orphan (Alphonso l'M(nirv), our cousin, aged five years, to whom uiy lather was tutor, and \> honi he had always considered as his own child, my sister Caroline, anareuts to the grave. Our friends, however, hy their great care and attention, got us hy degrees to re- cover our com]>osure. and chased from oui tho»"))iisi the cruel recollection which nftUeted us. We recovered our tranquillity, and dared at last to cherish the hope of seeing more fortunate days. That hope was not delu- sive. A worthy friend of my father, Monsieur Dard, who had pron\ised to act :is a guardian to his orphan cluldrcn, proved himself a more than friendly benefac- tor. After gathering together the wrecks of our wretch- ed family, he tenderly offered himself .j my luisband, .and I need not say that he was worthy of my sincerest att,ichmcnt. I gave my hand where alivady was my esteem. My sister Caroline afterwards married a gen- tleman belonging to the colony. ** Ix^aving Senegal w ith my luisband and the young Alphonso, in November 1820, in a month thereafter wo landed safolv on the shores of our dear France, which TIIK nfTNAWAY. 14D (1 ; but bo first [ of tbo iporR of !('irvn« moulbs kl]>bon8o V fatbor il ns bU ( ftll tbut out for "oUowed evor, by OS to ro- ohisi tbe ovcd our bopc of ot (b'lii- w Dard, orpliau bonofac- wrotch- uisband, sincerost was my a gou- |e young ifter wo a. which "i4 H 1: WO rosojvcd sboubl lunpof«»rtb be our boino. Tbo pUco wboro wo HcttbMl wuh tbat of my buHband'H nativity, at u Bliort diHtanco from l>i.j«>ri, and boro I liavo bad tbo ba|»- ItinoHM of finding now rolaiiouH, wboMo tondor friondsbift r<»nHoIoH mo in part for tbo loss of tbc.') of whom cruel death doprived me in Africa." Tin: RUNAWAY. Late in tbe afternoon of ono of tboso sultry days wbicb render tbj" atmospbore of tbe Louisiana swamps pregnant witb baneful effluvia, I directed my course towards my distant bonu% laden witb a pack consisting of five or six wood Ibises, and a heavy gun, tbe weigbt of wbicii, even in tboso days, wben my natural powers were unimpaired, prevented me from moving witb much speed, liearbing tbe banks of a miry bayou, only a few yards in brcadtb,but of wbicb I coubl not ascertain tbe depth, on account of tbo muddiness of its waters, I thought it migbt be dangerous to wade tbrough it with my burden ; for wliich reason, tlirowing to tbe opposite side each of my beavy birds iu succession, together with Tij gun, powder-flask and shot- bag, and drawing my hunting-knife from its sca})l)ard, to defend myself, if need should be, against alligators, I. entered tbe water, followed by my faitbful dog. As I advanced carefully and slowly " Plato" swam around me, enjoying the refreshing influence of tbe liquid clement that cooled his fatigued and heated frame. The water deepened, as did the mire of its bed ; but with a stroke or two I gained the shore. Scarcely had I stood erect on the opposite bank, when my dog ran to me, exhibiting marks of terror, his eyes seeming ready to burst from their sockets, and his mouth grinning with the expression of hatred, while his feelings found vent in a stifled growl. Thinking that all this was produced by the scent of a wolf or bear, I stooped to 1.50 THE RUNAWAY. ,i I a'i take lip my gun, wlion a stentorial voice commanded me to " stand still or die !" Such a " qui vivt" in tlusw woods was aH unexpected as it wna rare. 1 instantly raised and cocked my gun; and although I did not yet perceive the individual who had thus issued so peremp- tory a mandate, 1 felt determined to comhat with hini for the froc passage (re did mities. ly, and of sub- J mind. )erhay)» »t now, nst nie hands, why, L^ertain- t'lsome rrowful cannot ere, de- lorning:, le great llacency kht, in- least his |d me, I red the which. 4 ■s he seemed to understand so thoroughly, that turning to me, he said, " There, master, take my batcher's knife, while I throw away the flint and priming from my gun!" Reader, I felt confounded : this was too much for me ; I refused the knife, and told him to Iieep his piece ready, in case we might accidentally meet a cougar or a bear. Generosity exists every w!icre. The greatest monarch acknowledges its impulse, and all around him, from his lowest menial to the proud nobles that encircle his throne, at times experience that overpowering sentiment. I offered to shake hands with the runaway. " Master," sflid he, ** I beg you thanks," and with this I -^ gave me a squeeze that alike impressed mo with the goodness of his heart, and his great physical strength. From that moment we proceeded through the woods together. My dog smelt at him several times, but as he heard me iipeak in my usual tone of voice, he soon left us, and rambled around as long as my whistle was unused. As be proceeded, I ol»served that ho was guiding me towards the setting of the sun, and (juite contrary to my home and eourse. J remarked this to him, when he with great siinplicity rej,lied, " merely for our security." After trudging along for some distance, and crossing several bayous, at all of which he threw his gun and knife to the opposite bank and stood still until I had got ov<.»", we came to the borders of an immense cane-brake, from wliidi I Iiud, on former occasions, driven and killed several deer., We entered, as I had frequently 6tme l^fore, now erect, then on "all fours." He regularly ltd the way, divided here and there the en- tangled ftUlks, and whenever we reached a fallen tree, aswisted me in getting over it with all possible care. I saw th*t he was a perfect Indian in the knowledge of the wood«, for he kept a direct course fis precisely as any " iied-skin" I ever travelled with. All of a sudden he emitted a loud shriek, not iinlike that of an owl, which so 8ui-pri8*-d me, that I «>nce i»>ore instantly levelled my gun. "No harm, master, I miy give notice to my wif« U2 THE RUNAWAY. and children that I am coming." A tremulous answer of the same nature gently echoed through the tree-tops. The runaway's lips separated with an expression of gen- tleness and delight when his beautiful set of ivory teeth seemed to smile through the dusk of evening that was thickening around us. " Master," said he, ** my wife, though black, is as beautiful to me as the * President's' wife is to him ; she is my queen, and I look on our young ones as so many princes : — but you shall see them all, for here they are, thank God !'* There, in the heart of a cane-brake, I found a regular camp. A small fire was lighted, and on its embers lay girdling some large slices of venison. A lad nine or ten years old was blowing the ashes from some fine sweet potatoes. Various articles of household furniture were carefully disposed around, and a large pallet of bear and deer skins seemed to be the resting-place of the whole family. The wife raised not her eyes towards mine, and the little ones three in number, retired into a comer, like so many discomfited racoons, but the runaway, bold, and apparently happy, spoke to them in such cheering words, that at once one and all seemed to regard me as one sent by Providence to relieve them from all their troubles. My clothes were hung up by them to dry, and the negro asked if he might clean and grease my gun, which I permitted him to do, while the wife threw a large piece of deer's flesh to my dog, which the children were already caressing. Only think of my situation, reader ! Here I was ten miles at least from home, four or five from the nearest plantation, in the camp of runaway slaves, and quite at their mercy. My eyes involuntarily followed their motions, but as I thought I perceived in them a strong desire to make me their confidant and friend, I gradually relinquished all suspicion. The venison and potatoes looked quite tempting, and by this time I was in a condition to relish mucli less savoury fare, so, on being humbly asked to divide the viands before us, THE RUNAWAY. 163 BIS ten :t» earest i^i lite at ^1 their H >trong M ttually ^iS Itatoes 1 J l^as in 1 M to, on \e U8, I partook of as hearty a meal as I had ever done in my life. Supper over, the fire was completely extinguished^ and a small lighted pine-knot placed in a hollow cala- bash. Seeing that both the husband and wife were desirous of communicating something to me, I at once fearlessly desired them to unburden their minds ; when the runaway told me a tale of which the following is the substance : — About eighteen months before, a planter residing not very far off, having met with some losses, was obliged to expose his slaves at a public sale. The value of his negroes were well known, and on the appointed day, the auctioneer laid them out in small lots, or offered them singly, in the manner he judged most advantageous to their owner. The runaway, who was well known as be- ing the most valuable, next to his wife, was put up by himself for sale, and brought an immoderate price. For his wife, who came next and alone, 800 dollars wei ' bidden and paid down. Then the children were exposed, and on account of their breed, brought high prices. The rest of the slaves went off at rates corresponding to their qualifications. The runaway chanced to be purchased by the over- seer of the plantation ; the wife was bought by an individual residing about an hundred miles off, and the children went to different places along the river. The heart of the husband and father failed him under this dire calamity. For a while he pined in deep sorrow under his new master ; but having marked down in his memory the names of the different persons who had purchased each dear portion of his family, he feigned illness, — if indeed he whose affections had bcQn so griev- ously blasted could be said to feign it,— refrained from food for several days, and was little regarded by the overseer, who felt himself disappointed in what he had considered a great bargain. On a stormy night, when the elements raged with all 154 THE RUNAWAY. m ^;; 'I' ,1 • I ■ ! i ■I ■■; k the fury of a hurricane, the poor negro made his escape, and, being well acqualuted with all the neighbouring swamps, at once made directly for the cane-brake, in the centre of which I found his camp. A few nights after- wards he gained the abode of his wife, and the very next day after their meeting he led her away. The children one after another he succeeded in stealing, until at last the whole objects of his love were under his care. To provide for five individuals was no easy task in those wilds, which, after the first notice was given of the wonderful disappearance of this extraordinary family, were daUy ransacked by armed planters. Necessity, it is said, will bring the wolf from the forest. The run- away seems to have well understood the maxim, for under night he approached his first master's plantation, where he had ever been treated with the greatest kind- ness. The house servants knew him too well not to aid him to the best of their power, and at the approach of each morning he returned to the camp with an ample supply of provisions. One day, while in search of wild fruits, he found a bear dead before the muzzle of a gun which had been set for the purpose. Both articles he carried to his home. His friends at the plantation managed to supply him with some ammunition, and in damp and cloudy days he first ventured to hunt round his camp. Possessed of courage and activity, he gradually became more careless, and rambled farther in search of game. It was on one of his excursions that I met him, and he assured me that the noise which I made in passing the bayou had caused him to lose the chance of killing a fine deer, although, said he, ''my old musket misses fire sadly too of^en.** The runaways, after disclosing their secret to me, both rose from their seat, with eyes full of tears. ''Good master, for God's sake, do something for us and our children," they sobbed forth with one accord. Their little ones lay sound asleep in the fearlessness of their THE LOST ONE. 166 innocence. Who could have heard such a tale without emotion I I promised them my cordial assistance. They both sat up that night to watch my repose, and I slept close to their urchins, as if on a bed of the softest down. Day broke so fair, so pure, and so gladdening, that I told them such heavenly appearances were ominous of good, and that I scarcely doubted of obtaining their full pardon. I desired them to take their children with them, and promised to accoir.prjiy them to the planta- tion of their first master. They gladly obeyed. My Ibises were hung around their camp, and, as a memento of my having been there, I notched several trees, after which I bade adieu, perhaps for the last time, to the cane-brake. We soon reached the plantation, the owner of which, with whom I was well acquainted, received me with all the generous kindness of a Louisiana plan- ter. Ere an hour had elapsed, the runaway and his family were looked upon as his own. He afterwards re- purchased them from their owners, and treated them with his former kindness ; so that they were rendered as happy as slaves generally are in that country, and con- tinued to cherish that attachment to each other which had led to their adventures. Since this event happened, it hiis, I have been informed, become illegal to separate slave families without their consent. AuduborCs Ornithological Biography, ExcitemeDt. THE LOST ONE. A " Live Oaker" employed on the St. John's river, in East Florida, left his cabin, situated on the banks of that stream, and, with his axe on his shoulder, proceeded to- wards the swamp in which he had several times before plied his trade of felling and squaring giant trees that af- 156 THE LOST ONE. I k IS ^; ■ f ford the most valuable timber for naval architecture and other purposes. At the season which is best for this kind of labour, heavy fogs not unfrequently cover the country, so as to render it difficult for one to see farther than thirty or forty yards in any direction. The woods, too, present so little variety, that every tree seems the mere counter- part of every other ; and the grass, when it has not been burnt, is so tall, that a man of ordinary stature cannot see over it, whence it is necessary for him to proceed with great caution, lest he should unwittingly deviate from the ill-defined trail which he follows. To increase the diffi- culty, several trails often meet, in which case, unless the explorer be perfectly acquainted with the neighbourhood, it would be well for him to lie down, and wait till the fog disperse. Under such circumstances, the best woods- men are not unfrequently bewildered for a while ; and I well remember that such an occurrence happened to myself, at a time when I had imprudently ventured to pursue a wounded quadruped, which led me some dis- tance from the track. The Live-Oaker had been jogging onwards for several hours, and became aware that he must have travelled considerably more than the distance between his cabin and the hummock which he desired to reach. To his alarm, at the moment when the fog dispersed, he saw the sun at its meridian height, and could not recognise a single object around him. Young, healthy, and active, he imagined that he had walked with more than ordinary speed, and had passed the place to which he was bound. He accordingly turn- ed his back upon the sun, and pursued a different route, guided by a small trail. Time passed, and the sun head- ed his course : he saw it gradually descend in the west ; but all around him continued as if enveloped with mys- tery. The huge grey trees spread their giant boughs over him, the rank grass extended on all sides, not a liv- i ; THE LOST OXE. 157 re and labour, 9 as to irty or present )unter- [)t been cannot 3d with •om tlie le diffi- less the iirhood, till the woods- le ; and >ened to red to e dis- several •avelled IS cabin To his ,\v the :nise a ing being crossed his path, — all was silent and still, and the scene was like a dull and dreary dream of the land of oblivion. He wandered like a forgotten ghost that had passed into the land of spirits, without yet meeting one of his kind with whom he could hold converse. The condition of a man lost in the woods is one of the most perplexing that could be imagined by a person who has not himself been in a like predicament. Every object that he sees, he at first thinks he recognises, and while his whole mind is bent on searching for more that may gradually lead to his extrication, he goes on committing greater errors the farther he proceeds. This was the case with the Live-Oaker. The sun was now setting with a fiery aspect, and by degrees it sunk in its full cir- cular form, as if giving warning of a sultry morrow. Myriads of insects, delighted at its departure, now filled the air on buzzing wings. Each piping frog arose from the muddy pool in wliich it had concealed itself ; the squirrel retired to its hole, the crow to its roosl, and far above, the harsh croaking voice of the heron announced that, full of anxiety, it was wending its way to the miry interior of some distant swamp. Now the woods began to resound to the shrill cries of the owl ; and the breeze, as it swept among the columnar stems of the forjst trees, came laden with heavy and chilling dews. Alas ! no moon with her silvery light shone on the dreary scene, and the lost one, wearied and vexed, laid himself down on the damp ground. Prayer is always consolatory to man in every difficulty or danger, and the woodsman fer- vently prayed to his Maker, wished his family a happier night than it was his lot to experience, and with a fever- ish anxiety waited the return of day. You may imagine the length of that cold, dull, moon- less night. With the dawn of day came the usual fogs of those latitudes. The poor man started on his feet, and with a sorrowful heart, pursued a course which he thought might lead him to some familiar object, al- though, indeed, he scarcely knew what he was doing. r I i f{ r i IfiR THE LOST ONE. No longer Imd he the trace of a track to fi^iido him, and yet, as the sun rose, he calculated the many hours uf day- light he had hcfore him, and the farther ho went con- tinued to walk the faster. But vain were all his hopes : that day was spent in fruitless endeavours to regain iho path that led to his home, and when night again ap- proached, the terror that had hcen gradually spreading over his mind, together with the nervous dehility indu- ced hy fatigue, anxiety, and hunger, rendered him almost frantic. He told me that at this moment he heat his hreast, tore. his hair, and, had it not heen for the piety with which his parents had in early life imhued his mind, and which had heeome hahitual, wouUl have curs- ed his existence. Famished as he now was, he laid him- self on the ground, and fed on the weeds and grass that grew around him. The night was spent in the greatest agony and terror. " I knew my situation," he said to nie. " I was fully aware that unless Almighty God came to my assistance, 1 must perish in those uninhahit- ed woods. I knew that I had walked more than fifty miles, although I had not met with a hrook from which I could quench my thirst, or even allay the hurning heat of my parched lips and blood-shot eyes. I knew that if I should not meet with some stream I must die, for my axe wjis my only weapon, and although deer and hears now and then started within a few yards or even feet of me, not one of them could I kill ; and although T was in the midst of abundance, not a mouthful did I expect to procure, to stvtisfy the cravings of my empty stomach. Sir, may God preserve you from ever feeling as I did the whole of that day !" For several daj's after, no one can imagine the condi- tion in which he was, for when he related to me this painful adventure, he assured me that he had lost all re- collection of what had happened. " God," he continued, " must have taken pity on me one day, for, as I ran wildly through those dreadful pine barrens, 1 met with a tortoise. I gazed upon it with amazement and delight, THE LOST ONK. 159 iiin, ami s of (lay- cut con- s hopes : gain ilio tgain ap- «prcading iity iiulu- ni almost beat liis the piety Imed his lave curs- laid hiiii- a;rasa that c greatest le said to ghty God iiiinhabit- than fifty om which rning heat evv that if ie, for my and hears ren feet of gh T was lI I expect f stomach. I did the the condi- |o me this lost all re- jontinued, , as I ran met with Ld delight, and although I knew thrt were I to follow it undisturb- ed, it would lead mc to sonic water, my hunger and thirst wouM not allow me to refrain from satisfying both, by eating its flesh, and drinking its blood. With ono stroke of my axe the beast was cut in two, and in a few moments I dispatched all but the shell. Oh, sir, how much 1 thanked God, whose kindness had put the tor- toise in my way ! 1 felt greatly renewed. I sat down at the foot of a pine, gazed on the heavens, thought of my poor wife and children, and again thanked my God for my life, for now I felt less distracted in mind, and more aHHunnl that before long 1 must recover my way, and get back to my home." The lost one remained and passed the night at the foot of the same tree under which his repast had been nmde. Refreshed by a sound sh«ej), ho started at dawn to resume his weary march. 'J'he sun rose bright, and he followed the direction of the shadow. Still the dreariness of the woods was the same, and he was on the point of giving up in desj»air, when he observed a racoon lying squatted in the grass. Raising his axe he drove it with such violence tiirough the helpless animal, that it expired without a struggle. What he had done with the turtle, he now did with the racoon, the greater part of which he actually devoured at one meal. With more comfortable feelings he then resumed his wanderings — his journey I cannot say, — for although in the possession of all his faculties, and in broad day-light, he was worse ott' than a lame man groj)ing his way in the dark out of a dungeon, of which he knew not where the door stood. Days, one after another, passed — nay, weeks in succes- sion, lie fed now on cabbage- trees, then on frogs and snakes, all that fell on his way was welcome and savoury. Yet he became daily more emaciated, until at length he could scarcely crawl. Forty days had elapsed, by his own reckoning, when he at last reached the banks of the river. His clothes in tatters, his once bright axe dimmed with rust, his face begrimmcd with beard, his hair mat- r'' 160 THE LOST ONE. 1 ted, and his feeble frame little better than a skeleton covered with parchment ; there he laid himself down to die. Amid the perturbed dreams of his fevered fancy, he thought he heard the noise of oai-s far away on the dlent river. He listened so eagerly, that the hum of a fly could not have escaped his car. They were indeed the measured beats of oars; and now, joy to the forlorn soul! the sound of human voices thrilled to his heart, and awoke the tumultuous pulses of returning hope. On his knees did the eye of God see that poor man by the broad still stream that glittered in the sun beams, and human eyes soon saw him too, for round the headland covered with tangled brushwood, boldly advances the little boat, propelled by its lusty rowers. The lost one raised his feeble voice on high ; — it was a loud shrill scream of joy and fear. The rowers pause, and look around. Another, but feebler scream, and they observe him. It comes — his heart flutters, his sight is dimmed, his brain reels, he gasps for breath. It comes, — it has run upon the beach, and, the lost one is found ! This is no ii< ie of fiction, but the relation of an ac- tual occurrence, which might be embellished no doubt, but is better in the plain garb of truth. The notes by which I recorded it were written in the cabin of the once Live-Oaker, about four years after the painful incident oc- curred. His amiable wife and loving children were pre- sent at the recital, and never shall I forget the tears that flowed from them as they listened to it, albeit it had . long been more familiar to them than a tale thrice told. Sincerely do I wish, good reader, that neither you nor I may ever elicit such sympathy, by having undergone such suflerings, although no doubt such sympathy would be a rich recompense for them. It only remains for me to say, that the distance be- tween the cabin and the live-oak hummock to which the woodman was bound, scarcely exceeded eight miles, while the part of the river at which he was found, was thirty-eight miles from his house. Calculating A RIDE IN TUli PAMPAS. IGl skeleton down to id fancy, y on the luni of a e indeed e forlorn lis heart, iig hope. : man by jams, and headland mces the 3 lost one lud shrill and look y observe dimmed, s, — it has of an ac- no doubtj I notes by f the once sident oc- were pre- tears that dt it had irice told. yovL nor I ndergone hy would 4 his daily wandcrin-s at ten miles, we may believe that they amounted in all to 400. lie must tlierefore have rambled in a circuitous direction, which people general- ly do in such circumstances. No tiling but the great strength of his constitution, and the merciful aid of his Maker, could have supported him for so long a time. Ornithological Biography. A RIDE IN THE PAMPAS OF SOUTH AMERICA. Jv our rapid return across the Pampas, we were fre- quently alarmed by reports of hostile Indians being on tlie patli, and were entertained by our terrified Peons with tales of their ferocity and blood-thirstiness. Mount- ed on the most powerful and fleet horses, and themselves the best horsemen in the world, wherever they came their course was tracked in blood. The many conflicts with i}\Q Spanish usurpers of their country had created a spirit of the bitterest hostility in the breasts of both par- ties, and the idea on either side of sparing a foe who had fallen into their hands was never entertained. Small parties of Indians, armed with their spears of eighteen feet in length, had frequently attacked and burnt the unprotected huts of Gauchos, remorselessly slain the men, the old and ugly of the women, and car- ried the young and good-looking with them into the heart of the Pampas. We became accustomed, however, to tbcse recitals of cruelty, and having come within 300 miles of Buenos Ayres without seeing any of these flying parties, ceased to consider them as an object of alarm. We were within three days' gallop of the coast ; I was a few miles a-head of my companions, when an ostrich crossed me at some distance, and I pushed ofi^ alone after him. I had acquired some little skill in the use of the lasso,* and being mounted on a horse of extraordinary * It is poasible that some readers may require to be iafiDrmed, that the 162 A RIDE IN THE PAMPAS speed and power, made myself sure of my prize. There is perhaps no sport in the world so intensely interesting as that in which I was engaged ; miles pass with minutes, and the sight of the chase continually in view, ivceps alive an ardour which absorbs every faculty. I had made several unsuccessful casts, but still kept up the pursuit with reckless impetuosity, when my horse sud- denly fell with me into a biscachero,* and rolling over my body, bruised me severely. Fortunately, I still re- tained hold of the bridle, but, unable to rise, lay help- lessly on my back, gazing upwards upon innumerable bright and fantastic objects which seemed to fill the at- mosphere. At length, when the sickness had in some measure left me, I managed to get into the saddle, and walked my horse slowly in the direction, as I thought, of the road which I had left. I now began to reflect that, as my course had been almost at right angles to the track leading to the coast, and as I had continued great part of an hour with unabated speed in the chase, there was no possibility of my overtaking my friends, com- pelled as I was by the pain of my bruises to proceed at the most gentle pace possible. I felt also, from the fre- quent tripping of my horse, that he was well-nigh spent, and now for the first time the appalling nature of my situation burst fully on my mind. I was alone in a trackless plain — without the power of reaching the path I had left, and certain, unless some lasso of the South Americans is composed of plaited thongs of raw leather, softened with grease, and with a running noose at one end, which is thrown with astonishing dexterity over any part of the object of pursuit. *The blscacheroa are holes burrowed in the ground by an animal called a Bitcaeho, and were it not for the soft nature of the plains, it would be ex- tremely dangerous to cross them on horseback, as it is in many instances impossible to avoid the biscacheros, and the speed at which the horses go would generally render a fall on hard ground mortal. The " balls" spoken of consist of three brass globes which the Gauchos wheel round their head, till they acquire sufficient impetus, and then they arc darted with such force and dexterity as to bring down a bird in its flight, or to stun the strongest bull, station game, or lion. The lasso and the balls are in the hands of the Gauchos from their earliest years,— hence, their inimitable skill in using them. tt i OF SOUTH AMERICA. 1G3 ither, irown ailed ex- ances esgo oken ead. force (igest fthe sing .1 wandering Gaucho should by good fortune pass me, to perish with hunger or severe thirst, which, from the bruises I had received, began to parch up my frame. 1 swept the horizon with a glance dimmed by sickness and terror, but save a herd or two of wild cattle feeding among the deep clover, there was nothing to break the sameness of the view. A troop of naked Indian horse- men, of whose cruelties I had lately heard so much, would at that moment have been welcome to my sight. Often, as the nature of the dreadful death to which I seemed doomed shot through my heart, I struck my spurs into my horse's sides with a convulsive movement, but the groaning of the fatigued animal, and the agony which the least acceleration in his pace created in my bruised limbs, caused me as often to return to a felow walk, and lo yield myself up to despair. In a sliort tune, the thirst which I suffered became so intolerable, that I decided on opening a vein in the neck of my horse, in order to quench it in his blood. I knew very well that the best way to relieve my thirst, and assuage the fever which caused it, would have been to draw a little blood from my own veins, instead of my jaded steed ; but I was fear- ful that, if fainting came on, I might bleed to death. I therefore took out the instrument, and was about dis- mounting in order to perform my little operation. Be- fore doing so, however, I cast another longing look around me ; and to my inexpressible joy, beheld a horse- man gallop out from behind a large herd of wild cattle which had for a little time concealed him. I hallooed with all my might, but the fee])le sound must have died along the plain before it reached him, for he kept on his coui-se. At last I fired one of my pistols, and I could instantly see his horse turn, and sweep towards me at a rapid pace. I had time to reload my pistol, loosen my knife in its sheath, and fix my almost sinking fiiculties upon the danger probably before me ; for I knew that a Gaucho, meeting an unprotected stranger like myself in the plains, would think nothing of cutting his throat for the 164 A RIDE T!f THE PAMPAS • ir sake of his 1)n(]Ie and spurs, besides the possibility of find- ing a few dollars in his purse. Fortunately, however, my fears were gi-onncMcss ; the rider who had so oppor- tunely crossed me proved to be a Gaucho hoy, of aliout eleven or twelve years of age. I returned my pistols to my girdle, and utterod an ejaculation of grii itude. The little fellow came dashing np to me at full speed, crying, -with evident emotion, as he checked lAft horse, till the ani- mal fell almost on liis haunches, " Qu ? es esto ?" — what is this? I shortly explained to him iiy misfortunes, and requested to be taken to his home, which I found was at a few miles distance, lying further south than any other Ganclio hut. lie gave me a drink of water from a cow\s liorn, which was slung round him, tmd never till my dying day shall I forget the exquisite ftfling of pleasure ^vhich that delicious draught communicated to my parclied frame, lie then pulled some dried beef i'vom a bag which hung at his saddle bow, and I ate a few mouthfuls to relieve the fiintness which my lung abstin- ence from food had created. Thus, having perlbrmed the duties of hospitality, the young horseman dasixed away in the direction I was to accompany liiin, wliiiling his iasso above head, and his poncho streaming like a pennon behind, then ever and anon returning to my side with an " Alegrarse ! alegrarse ! vamos ! vamos ! senor." — Cheer up ! cheer up ! corne on, come on, mr\f)V ! In this way, af(:(T a most painful march, wo arrived at his hut, which ^\'.'is larger and rrore neatly built than any 1 had seen, containing two apartments, bcsid.'S a covei'ed shed at a little distance, to servo the purposes of a kitchen. The XQYy corraV^ was not surrounded l)y the usual quantity of filth, the cause of which was at once to be traced to the great nunil)er of heavy-looking gorged vultures whiclji sat upon the stakes of the inclosure, remaining, as I rode / n » 1 An lnc1(J3ure generally thirty or forty yards in diameter, foriiud of s'Mng staKcs driven into t!he ground, in which the cattle destined for sil.uigliter or the saddle are plartd. In the I'air.pas, the corral is usually placed fifty or one hundred yards from the hut. OF SOUTH AMERICA. 105 jnnon :h an 'hecr way, liit'h seen, at ii The ity c>r the )h Silt rode [lud of \ci\ f(»r usually / past, almost witliin rcnch of my extended arm. Tli^y had gatliered round tliis settlement in greater numbers than I had seen in any otlier place on the Pampas, and were also larger than any 1 had 1 efore met with. A few noble horses were shut up in the corra^ which, by their neighing as we passed, proved that they had been but lately reclaimed from tlie j)lain3. Every thing around looked less like the sjpialid hut of a wretched Gaucho, tlian the decent home of an independent agriculturist ; and had it not )>ern for the corral^ and the heaps of bones of «"V('ry kind scatten 1 about, 1 couhl have fancied tbis to be the divuliing of some whini-^ieal foreigner, who had chosen to leave his vintv^rd in Languedoc, or his farm in Sasse, to share wit!i the wild horse, thegoma and tlie lion, th«' freedom of the plains of Paraguay. But if I was surprised at the comparative neatness of tlie place, I was soon much more so at th*,' extraordinary behaviour «.f its master, as, lifting aside the bullock's hide which served as a door to the dwelling, he came forth to meet me. I should mention here that the Gauchos are famed for their hospitality, and that they ahnost univer- 8 illy retain the grave politeness for which Spaniards have always been remarkable. To such an extent, in fact, is this carried, that a Gancbo never enters his hut without lifting his cap with a gestur-- of resp^^r-t, though there may be none but the mem!)er(!i of his own family within. I was therefore surprised to perceive that, instead of wel- coming me with tin* cordial alacrity which i had else- where universally receiveil, ti«< Gaucho started as his eyes fell upon me, and sliding iiis hand ilown towards his heel, drew forth his long knife with a threatening gesture. So soon as I had saluted him, however, and explained my misfortune, lie seemed to recover himself, and nuit- tering somo words of apology as he replaced his weapon, he begged me to enter his hut, and to consliler it as my own. Faint and weary as I was, I could not but per- ceive the constraint and relu'.tance with which he uttered this usual compliment, and, as the most delicate way I- 1 f I \ " 5) hi II irto A RTDF, IN TIIK PAMPAS of noticing it, cxprcssod a hope tlint the cntortainnicnt of a travi'lior for u night uniU'r his roof woukl not in any way inooinnioik' him. He turned liis qiiiek eye on me as 1 .spoke ; but seeing, ns 1 presumed, nothing like Buspieion on my features, l)egan husily to oceupy himself in reUnising my horse from his frcaclo, or saddlo and hridh\ ns he expressed his ])leasure in being honoured by the jiresenee of a cavalier like n.yself. " You must ex- cuse an old man, senor," said he, "if ho is somewhat cautious and fearful : in these wild plains there arc more salleadorcs (robbers) than honest Christians ; l)esides, we have certain information that the Indians arc some- where in these parts: they have burnt some huts in the clover ground past, and may be upon us before the morning: a man is rarely at liis ease when he knows his thn)at may bo cut before next meal, senor, and therel'ore, 1 pray you, i)ardon my want of courtesy." And then giving the horse a lash with the bridle, he moved towards the hut, desiring nu>, in the true Spanish style, to consider both hims<>lf and his dwelling JUS created onl}' for my pleasure. J had been too often told of the Indians, to be alarmed at the story of my host, besides that 1 considertid it as a ruse intended to hasten my departure ; and though I was utterly at a loss to discover the cause of his churlishness, I was too much occupied by my own sulfering to notice it further than mentally to detennine on leaving the station the next morning at all hazards. The inside of the hut was more clean and neat than nsual in the (lauehos' cot I ages ; the holas or balls, and the lassos, the briilles, spurs, and other im]>lements, were arranged in an orderly manner along tiie walls, the cradle, made of a bull's hide, suspciuled by leathern thongs to tliC rafters, occupied a remote corner of the apartn\ent, the charcoal tire burnt cheerily, while the lamp, fed by bullock's tallow suspended from the roof, poured a clear light into the recesses of the room. The night liad fallen during my late slow ride, and the cold I I i m OF ROVTIf AMERICA. 167 tlian and IltH, alls, lorn the thr '« )(>!", Thr cold bad seized upon my stiffoned llml)s with great Hcvprity. It had ])eiiuinbt'd rather than chilled me ; the feverish heat ra'fing as it were within my frame, while my ex- tremities were almost insensil)le, and covered with a cold sweat. The warmth of the room, however, presently equalized the heat in my whole body, and I prepared to take away some hlood from my ann. There was an in- stant stir among several dark heaps which lay upon the floor, and four or five women, with twice as many child- ren — black, brown, and red, gathered round mo to look at the operation, the most common and favourite one among all Spaniards. An old black woman, who, from her appearance, and from her bringing in the huge piece of roast beef on tlie spit, seemed to be the cook of the establishment, held the vessel to receive the blood, - iid being more occupied in examining my dress than in the duty of the moment, j)orformed her part so awkwardly that I reproved her in an angry and loud tone for her inattention. The family gathered round and ate their evening meal ; each individual, even to the children, cutting with their knives a piece from the huge joint. This witls water formed their repast ; for bread there is none in the plains. ]*jach then bent for a few moments before a little image of the virgin which Imng a^ one end of the hut ; and laying down on the floor, as chance or wliim directed them, they were soon fast asleep. 'J'lie old (laucho, however, and a very pretty mulatto girl with a child in her lap, sat at ti\e fire as if waiting for r.ome one. The youthful mother bent over her slumber- ing infiuit's features, wherein some secret grief seemed blended with maternal anxiety. She frequently turned her eyes towards the door, and then to the old G audio, with an expression of surprise or fear at the protracted delay of some one whom she namcil Teoljaldo. The old man never answered her, ]>ut seemed to be wrapped up in deep reflection. The niddy light of the 168 AN AMERICAN FOREST ON FIRE. is i u* III r 11 cliarcoal fire fell upon his harsh features, deep dark eyes, and grizzled beard, discovering every furrow on his face with painful distinctness, and clothing his lineaments with a kind of lurid light, which increased the savage, though slumbering, ferocity of their expression. At length, when the young woman again turned her eyes filled with teai-s upon him, and spoke in a querulous tone of the delay of Teobaldo, the old man uttered an imprecation, and grinding his teeth, commanded her to be silent. lie then relapsed into his former moody abstraction, while I could see the tears streaming down the cheeks of the terrified girl upon her sleepuig infant, fast and freely as from a fountain. New Monthly Magazine, AN AMERICAN FOREST ON FIRE. With what pleasure have I seated myself by the blazing fire of some lonely cabin, when, faint with fatigue, and chilled with the piercing blast, I had forced my way to it through the drifted snows that covered the face of the country as with a mantle ! The affectionate mother is hushing her dear babe to repose, while a group of sturdy children surround their father, who has just returned from the chase, and deposited on the rough flooring of his hut the varied game which he has procured. The great black log, that with some difficulty has been rolled into the ample chimney, urged, as it were, by lighted pieces of pine, sends forth a blaze of light over the happy family. The dogs of the hunter are already licking away the trickling waters of the tliawing icicles that sparkle over their shaggy coats, and the comfort- loving cat is busied in passing her furry paws over each ear, or with her rough tongue smoothing her glo^sv coat. IIow delightful to me has it been, when kir ^ re- ceived and hospitably treated under such a ' )of^ by / ▲N AMERICAN FOREST ON FIRE. 109 )een by lover ady icled brt ach oat. re- by / >! persons whose means were as scanty as their generosity was great, I have entered into conversation with them respecting s'lbjects of interest to me, and received grati- fying information. I recollect that once while in the state of Maine, I passed such a night as I have described. Next morning the face of nature was obscured by the heavy rains that fell in torrents, and my generous host begged mc to remain in such pressing terms, that I was well content to accept his offer. Breakf:ist over, the business of the day commenced : the spinning wheels went round, and the boys employed themselves, one in searching for knowledge, another in attempting to solve some ticklish aritiimetical problem. In a corner lay the do;;s dreaming of plunder, while close to the ashes stood grimalkin seriously purring in concert with the wheels. The hunter and I having seated ourselves each on a stool, while the matron looked after her domestic arrangements, I requested him to give me an account of the events resulting from those fires wjiich he had witnossoJ. Willingly he at once went on neai'ly oa follows : — "About twenty-five years ago, the larch or hackmi- tack trees wera nearly all killed by insects. This took pliice in what hereabouts is called the * black soft growth* land, that is, the spruce, pine, and all otlior firs. The destruction of the trees was effected by the insects cutting the leaves ; and you must know that, al- though other trees are not killed by the loss of their leaves, the evergreens always are. Some few years after this destruction of the larch, the same insects attacked the sj)rucos, pines, and other firs, in such a manner, that before half a dozen years were over, they began to fall, and, tumbling in all directions, they covered the whole country with matted masses. You may suppose that, when partially dv'wd or seasoned, th y would prove capital iuel, as well as supplies for the Icvoviring flames which accidentally, or perhaps by intention, aftorwarda raged over the country, and continu«;d buming at inter- 170 AN AMERICAN FOREST ON PIRE. vals for years, in many places stopping all communica- tion Ijy the roads, ihe resinous nature of the firs being of course best fitted to insure and keep up the burning of the deep beds of dry leaves of the other trees. " I dare say that vhat I have told you brings sad re- collections to the minds of my wife and eldest daughter, M'ho, with myself, had to fiy from my home at the time of the great fires." I felt so interested in his relation of the causes of the burnings, that I asked him to describe to me the parti- culars of his misfortunes at the time. " It is a difficult thing, sir, to describe, but I will do my best to make your time pass pleasantly. We were sound asleep, one night, in a cabin, about a hundred miles from this, when, about two hours before day, the snorting of the horses and lowing of the cattle, which I had ranged in the woods, suddenly awakcrjctl us, I took yon rifle, and went to the door to see what beast had caused the hubbub, when I was struck by the glare of light reflect- ed on all the trees before mc, ns far as I could see through the woods. My horses were leaping al)0ut, snorting loudly, and the cattle ran among them, with their tails raised straight over their backs. On going to the back of the house, I plainly heard the crackling made by the burning brushwood, and sow the flames coming towards us in a far extended line. I ran to the house, told n^ wife to dress herself and the child as quickly as possible, and take the little money we had, while I managed to catch and saddle the two best horses. All this was done in a very short time, for I guessed that every moment was precious to us. " We then mounted, and made off^ from the fire. My wife, who is an excellent rider, stuck close to me ; my daughter, who was then a small child, 1 took in one ami. When making off^, as 1 said, I looked back and saw the frightful blaze was close upon us, and had already laid hold of the house. By good luck there was a horn at- tached to my hunting clothes, and 1 blew it, to bring V I AN AMERICAN FOREST ON FIRE. 171 lone lent Mv mv mil. the laid nt- iring / after us, if possiljlc, the remainder of my live stock, as well as the dogs. The cattle followed for awhile, but before an hour had elapsed, they all ran as if mad through the woods, and that, sir, was the last of them. My dogs, too, although at all other times extremely tractable, ran after the deer that in bodies sprung before us, as if fully aware of the death that was so rapidly ap- proaching. "We hoard blasts from the liorns of our neighbours, as we proceeded, and knew that tliey were in the same pre- dicament. Intent on striving to the utmost to preserve our lives, 1 thought of a large lake, some miles off, which might possibly check the flames ; and urging my wife to wliip up her horse, we set off at full speed, mak- ing the best way we could over the fallen trees and the brush heaps, which lay like so many articles placed on purpose to keep up the terrific fires that advanced with seemed to understand the matter, cried so as nearly to break our hearts. " The day passed on, and we became hungry. Many wild beasts came plunging into the water beside us, and others swam across to our side, and stood still. Although faint and weary, I managed to shoot a porcupine, and we nil tasted its flesh. Tho night passed I cannot tell you how. Smouldering fires covered the ground, and tlic trees stood like pillars of fire, or fell across each other. The stifling and sickening smoke still rushed over us, and the burnt cinders and ashes fell thick about us. How we got through that night I really cannot tell, for about some of it I remember nothing. " Towards morning, although the heat did not abate, the smoke became less, and blasts of fresh air sometimes made their way to us. When morning came, all was calm, but a dismal smoke still filled the air, and the smell seemed worse than ever. We were now cooled enough, and shivered as if in an ague fit ; so we removed from the water, and went up to a burning log, where we warmed ourselves. What was to become of us I did not know. My wife hugged the child to her breast, and wept bitter- ly ; but God had preserved us through the worst of the danger, and the flames had gone past, so I thought it would be both ungrateful to Him, and unmanly, to de- spair now. Hunger once more pressed upon us, but this was easily remedied. Several deers were still standing in the water, up to the head, and I shot one of them. Some of its flesh was soon roasted ; and after eating it, we felt wonderfully strengthened. " By this time the blaze of the fire was beyond our sight, although the ground was still burning in many places, y i::(- ■J A NIGUT OF IMMINENT ITRIL. 173 ight, ices. and it was dangerous to go among tlic hiirnt trees. Af- ter resting awlille, and trimming ourselves, we prepared to commence our march. Taking up tlie cliild, I led the way over the hot ground and rocks ; and after two weary days and nights, during which wc shifted in the best manner we could, wc at last re.iched the * hard woods,' which had been free of the fire. Soon after we came to a house, where we wore kindly treated for awhile. Since tlien, sir, I have worked hard and constantly as a lum- berer ; but thanks be to God, here we arc safe, sound, and happy." Au(Iubon*s Amcrirnn Ornithology* Mirror. A NIOIIT OF IMMINIM TKRIL. Those who have walked on the banks of the Adige, be- fore Rovigo, will know, that about a league and a half from the town, there are two islands in the midst of tho channel, between which and the shore, tho water is not more than a foot deep ; and those who have never stir- red from home have probably heard that the Adige is ex tremely subject to violent inundations, equally remark- able for their sudden rise and fall, owing to its mountain- ous origin and short course. On the evening of one of the last days of May, I ar- rived opposite to one of these islands. The water was as pure as crystal, gently flowing over n fine pebbly chan- nel ; the island, which might be about forty yards from the shore upon which I stood, though more than double that distance on the other side, was inviting from its ex- treme greenness, and from the profusion of hyacinths upon one side — a flower to which I am extremely par- tial. Three or four trees also grew upon the edge, the trunks inclining over the water, and with but few branches. After a days walk, nothing is more agreeable than wading in a stream ; and as I had sufficient time to ii :3i ■! : ! II I i If 174 A NIGHT OP IMMINENT PERIL. spare, I resolved upon reacliing the island. This was soon accomplished ; I found the depth nowhere exceed two feet, and the island agreeable as I fancied it to be ; and having culled a large bouquet, I lay down upon the hya- cinth bank, and gave myself up to those pleasant recol- lections of homes and past scenes which the fragrance of this flower brought along with it. I had lain about a quarter of an hour, entirely forget- ful of time and place, when my attention was slightly roused by a distant sound, which I supposed at first to be thunder — a great deal having been heard to the north- ward in the course of the day ; and when it continued, and grew louder, I still supposed it was one of those pro- longed peals, which are so frequent to the south of the Alps. Soon, however, the sound changed, and seemed like the sea ; and as it became still louder, I started up in some alarm, and, — what a sight met my eye ! At the distance of a few hundred yards, I saw a mountain of dark waters rushing towards me with inconceivable velocity, like a perpendicular wall, and now roared louder than the loudest thunder. Not a moment was to be lost, the level of the island would be instantly covered, and to gain tlic shore was impossible. I instantly made for the largest of the trees, and had gained an elevation of about ten feet above the island, when the flood reached it. As it came nearer, its power appeared resistless : it seemed as if it would sweep the island from its foundations ; and I entertained not a ray of hope that the trunk upon which I was seated w ould escape the force of the torrent. It came, and the tree remained firm ; it covered the island and all its vegetation in an instant ; and I saw it rush beneath me, bearing along with it the insignia of its power and fury — huge branches and roots, fragments of bridges, imple- ments of household use and dead animals. As regarded myself, the first and immediate danger of destruction was over: but a moment's reflection — one glance around me, showed that I had but small cause for A NIGHT OF IMMINENT PERIL. 175 IT of -one for r ti congratulation. Betwixt the island and the shore, a tor- rent, that no human strength could withstand, rolled im- petuously on; and, although not fifty yards over, it would have been as impracticable an attempt to pass it, as if its breadth had been as many leagues. The first rush had left the tree unloosened ; yet, a second might carry it away: and the flood was still rising; — almost every moment I could perceive the distance between me and the water diminish, and indeed, I was not more than four feet above the surface. I had only two grounds of hope, — the most languid, however, that waa ever called by the name ; it was possible that some per- son might see my situation from the shore before night- fall, and bring others to my assistance; and if it was possible, also, that the river might rise no higher, and speedily subside. The first of these chances was one of very improbable occurrence, for this part of the country is but thinly inha])ited, — the high road did not lie along tlie river side, — and the shore, for three or four hundred yards from the channel of the river, was overflowed to the depth of probably three or four feet ; and besides, it was difficult to see in what way human aid could extri- cate me. No boat could reach the island, and if a rope could be thrown as far, it was extremely improbable that I should catch it, as it was impossible for me to stir from the tree upon which I was seated ; and as to any likelihood of the water subsiding, there was no appear- ance of it ; it was at all events impossible that this could happen before nightfall. In this dreadful and perilous situation, evening passed away, and no one appeared, and the river still continued to rise; the sky lowered and looked threatening; the torrent rushed by darker and more impetuous every few moments, reminding mo, by the wrecks which it bore along with it, of the frailty of the tenure by which I held my existence. The shores on both sides were changed into wide lakes, and the red sun went angrily IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11° 2.0 Ul m 1.25 il.4 m V

      «ll«W A NIOHT OF IMMINENT PERIL. 1 mwmm \ clos- ancied move id the sailing tonally of my strips, le raid- back ; r giddi- tke me. ^er me, I island I was gilt the d I saw surface, it other iter be- •clt con- ng tor- ise, and Ttain I Iropped e with I must Irm and ;old. I trunk, Iverance y mind \e night ith me. ters had I fan- cied 1 saw shrubs appear above water on the isl.and, and trees upon shore assume their usual appearance ; and with tlie first dawn of day, I joyfully perceived that I had not been mistaken; the flood had fallen at least three feet; and before sun-rise, the greater part of the island was left dry. Never did criminal reprieved u^iou the scaffold sliakc off his bonds with more joy than I did mine that bound me to the tree. I crept down the trunk which still hung over the torrent, and stepped about knee deep on the island. I then waded to that part which was dry, and lay down exhausted with the nit,^ht's watching, and aching with the position in which ] had been obliged to remain. Tlie water now continued to fall perceptibly every moment; soon the island was entirely dry, and the in- undation on shore had subsided into the natural channel ; but still the torrent was too strong and deep to attempt a passage, esjiecially weakened as 1 was by the occur- rences of the last twelve hours, and the want of food. I had no certainty as to the hour, for I had not, of course, remembert d to wind up my watch the evening before ; judging from the height of the sun, however, the water liad so much diminished before noon, that in two or three hours more I might attempt to gain the shore. About three in the afternoon, I accordingly entered the stream ; I found it then no where deeper than four feet, and with a little struggling and buffetting, succeeded in gaining the bank^ which I once thought I should never have trodden more. The bunch of hyacinths, which I luid not forgotten to bring from the island, I still held in my hand. I have dried a few of them, and kept them ever since; never do I smell this flower, as I walk through the woods or fields, that I do not experience in part the sensations I felt when I lifted my head and saw the impetuous flood rushing towards me, and, liowever dreadful a reality may be, the recollection of it is not unmixed with pleasure. I often open the leaves where lie these withered hyacinths, and I cannot say that when a i 170 A BURNING PRAIRIE. I look upon tlicm, I ever think they liave been dearly purchased. Inglis' Solitary Walks throvgh many Lands, Saturday Magazine. ';i *j ')■ .5 n. I: A BURNING PRAIRIE. After toiling for an hour, through a wide bottom of tall weeds and matted grass, I reached the grove — erected a small shod of boughs after the manner of the Indians, and lying down, was soon asleep, before a huge fire, which I built against the trunk of a fallen tree. I was awakened by the increasing violence of the gale. At times it sank into low wailings, and then would swell again, howling and whistling through the trees. After sitting by the fire for a short time, I again threw myself upon my pallet of dried grass, but could not sleep. There was something dismal and thrilling in the sound of the wind. At times, wild voices seemed shrieking through the woodland. It was in vain that I closed my eyes ; a kind of superstitious feeling came over me, and though I saw nothing, my ears drank in every sound. I gazed around in every direction, and sat with my hand on my gun-trigger, for my feelings were so wrought up that I momentarily expected to sec an armed Indian start from behind each bush. At last I rose up, and sat by the fire. Suddenly, a swift gust swept through the grove, and whirled off sparks and cinders in every direction. In an instant fifty little fires shot their forked tongues in the air, and seemed to flicker with a momentary struggle for existence. There was scarcely time to note their birth before they were creeping up in a tall tapering blaze, and leaping lightly along the tops of the scattered clumps of dry grass. In another moment they leaped forward into the prairie, and a waving line of brilliant flame quivered high up in the dark atmosphere. , Another gust came rushing along the ravine. It was i/i A BURNING rilAIRlE. 179 n dearly Lands, n of tall rccted a Indians, ige fire, I was lie. At Id swell After ' myself . There 1 of the ihrough eyes; a lough I gazed on my that I rt from he fire, e, and In an in the gle for • birth blaze, ttered leaped illiant t was 'i announced by a distant moan ; as it came nearer a cloud of dry leaves filled the air ; the slender shrubs and sap- lings bent like weeds — dry l)ranches snapped and crack- led. The lofty forest trees writhed, and creaked, and groaned. The next instant the furious blast reached the flaming prairie. Myriads and myriads of bright embers were flung wildly in the air: flakes of blazing grass whirled like meteors through the sky. The flame spread into a vast sheet that swept over the prairie, bending forward, illumining the l)lack waste which it had passed, and shedding a red light far down tlie deep vistas of the forest ; though all beyond the blaze was of a pitchy blackness. The roaring flames drowned even the howl- ing of the wind. At each succeeding blast tliey threw long pyramidal streams upwards in the black sky, then flared horizontally, and seemed to bound forward, lighting at each bound a new conflagration. Leajt, succeeded leap ; the flames rushed on with a race-horse speed. The noise sounded like the roar of a stormy ocean, and the wild tumultuous billows of the flame were tossed about like a sea of fire. Directly in their course, and some distance out in the prairie, stood a large grove of oaks — the dry leaves still clinging t the branches. There was a red glare thrown upon them from tlie blazing flood. A moment passed, and a black smoke oozed from the nearest tree — the blaze roared among their branches, and shot up for one hundred feet in the air, waving as if in triumph. The effect was transient. In a moment had the fire swept through a grove covering several acres. It sank again into the prairie, leaving the limbs of every tree scathed and scorched to an inky blackness, and shining with a bright crimson light hetween their branches. In this way the light confla- gration swept over the landscape : every hill seemed to burn its own funeral pyre, and the scorching heat licked every blade in the hollows. A do^k cloud of grey smoke, filled with burning embers, spread over the course of the flames, occasionally forming not ungraceful If JO F.srAPR OF TilElJTFNANT HOVS ■f."ir rolnnnis, wliich vvero almost instnntly Rimttcrod hy thr wind, mid drivon in n thoufnnd diflVrcnt dircctioiiR. For Hovoml hours the blnzo coidiiuird to rngo, and tho wlioh^ horizon hci'anio girdled with a holt of living fire. As tho circle cxicnih'd tho tlainos n|»|)onrod snialh'r nnd HnniHor, nntil thoy h)okod liko a slight goldon thread drawn around tho hills. 1'lioy tluMi must liavo boon nearly ten miles distant. At length tho hlazo disappear- < d, although the purple light, that lor hours ilhnninefl tlu' night sky, told thnt the element was extending into other regions of tho prairies. It was sunrise when 1 rose from my resting place and resumed my journey. What a <^'hange! All was waste. The sun h.ad set upon a prairie sliil clothed in its natural garb of herbage. It rose upon a scene of desola- tion. Not a single weed — not a blade of grass was left. The tall grove, which at sunset was covered with withered foliage, now spread a labyrinth of scorched and naked ]>ranches — the very type of ruin. A thin <'overnig of grey ashes was sprinkled ujuin the ground bencai '% and several large dead trees, whose dried branches had caught and nourished tho flame, were still bhizing or sending up long sjurcs of smoke. In every direction, barrenness marked the track of the flames. It had even worked its course against the blast, hugging to tho roots of tall grass. The wind was still raging ; cinders and ashes wcro drifting and whirling about in almost suflibcating clouds, sometimes rendering it impossible to sec for more than one or two hundred yards. Audubon, KSCAPE OF LIEUTENANT DOYS FROM A FRENCH PRISON. Lieutenant Boys, an officer in the British navy, has written an interesting account of his escape from the FROM A rnr.NCH rnfRov. If'.l d Iiy the ioHR. \ am] tlio W'lUpr firo. Killer Mild 'n til rend avo Ix'rri liwapjKvir- illlllllilKMl ding into f)lrt. rod with cIhhI and rovorinp; ['a.' ,ftnd lies liad azin^ or i recti on, lad even ho roots ics wcro ;■ clouds, 3rc than hibon. ISDN, v^y, has oni the forties*} of Valenciennes, where he was confincfl as a prisoner of war. In accomj»li.Hhini( his ohject, he had to rncoiinter nnhenrd-of miseries, and at the outset fV>und considerahle difhciilty in persua'liri^sorne of his comrades to acc(»Tn|)any him. flavin^ at length settled the [»re- liminaries of t jca[»e, he thus proceeds to detail his ad- veninres : — • *' Not an hour wns lost in procuring (}vvry thing need- ful f«»r the occasion ; hut hefore we could fix the precise day, we resf>lv'ed to ohtain some iiiff)rmation respectin[( the ohstacles in our pnssage to the upper citadel, that heing the only way hy which we eon Id |»ossihly escape. Jt was necessary to Ik; very cautious in this particular, and many sehemes were suggested. "At length, hearing that that part of the fortifications ahounded in wild rahhits, my greyhounds were offered to one of the gendarmes, whenever he chf»se to make use of them ; and the fellow mentioned it to the mareclial de logis, who was equally pleased with the expectation of sport, for they verily helieved that such heautiful English dogs could kill every rahhit they saw. Shortly after- wards, the gendarme came, with the keys in his hand, for them, the mareclial de logis waiting at the gate. The dogs, however, had heen taught to follow no one but their master, so that their refusing to go afforded me an opportunity of making an offer to accompany them, which was immediately accepted. "Whitehurst, Hunter, and two or three others, request- ed to go with us; four other gendarmes were ordered to attend, and we went in a tolerably large party. We took different directions round the ramparts, kicking the grass, under pretence of looking for rabliits ; few were found, and none killed ; but we succeeded in making our observations, and in about an hour returned, fully satis- fied of the practicability of escape, though the difficulties we had to encounter were, — to scale a wall, to ascend the parapet unseen, to escape the observation of three or four sentinels and the patroles, to descend two ramparts of 182 ESCAPE OF LIEUTENANT BOYS i;' I': ft! ;*■ • . ' .11 about forty-five feet each, to force two large locks, and to get over two draw-bridges. These were not more than we expected, and we therefore prepared accordingly. "On our return, we fixed the night of the 15th Novem- ber for the attempt. In the meantime, my friend M*In- tosh, then residing in town, got iron-handles put to a pair of steel boot-hooks, given to me by Craig, which I intended to use as picklocks. The only thing now want- ing was another rope ; and as that belonging to the well in the midshipmen's yard was (from decay) not trust- worthy, in the night we hacked several of the heart- yarns, so that the fir^t time it was used in ilie morning it broke. A subscription was made by the mids, and a new one applied for. By these means we had at conmiand about thirty-six feet, in addition to what our friends had before purchased of the bo^^s. Every thing was now prepared ; the spirits and provision in the knapsacks were concealed in the dog-kennel. "On thel4th, Whitehurst communicated the secret to a young mid, named Mansell, who immediately proposed to join, and my consent was requested ; but I strongly objected, under the impression of 'his being unable to endure the privations and hardships to which we might probably be exposed ; by the persuasion of Ricketts and Cadell, however, I at last consented. " At length the time arrived which I had so ardently desired, and the feelings of delight with which I hailed it were such as allowed me to anticipate the happiest results. The thought of having lost so many years from the service of my country, during an active war, had frequently embittered hours which would otherwise have been cheerful and merry, and now proved a stimu- lant to perseverance, exceeded only by that which arose from the desire I felt to impress npon the minds of Frenchmen the inefficacy of vigilance and severity to en- chain a British officer, when compared with that milder and more certain mode of securing his person, * confiding in his honour.* ''*! i V- V FROM A FRENCH PRISON. ]R3 Jocks, and not more cordingly, h Novcm- end M*In- put to H r, which I ow want- ) tlie well lot trust- he hcart- moniing ds, and a command lends had was now icks were ecret to a proposed strongly nable to i^e might etts and irdently [ hailed lappiest irs from ■ar, had herwiso stimu- h arose inds of Y to en- milder afiding 'i. ^i ,* f *'As the sun declined, our excitement increased. Our plans had hcen conducted with such profound secrecy, that only our most contidential friends entertained the slightest suspicion of our intention. At the usual hour we retired to rest ; at halt-past eleven we arose, and, in preparation for our departure, went into the midship- men's little yard, unspliced the well-rope, and returned to tlie apartment. Desirous of bidding adieu to our messmates, the six who slept in the room were awaken- ed. On seeing the manner in which we were equipped, the rope slung over the shoulder, the knapsacks, the implements, and the laugh each one was endeavouring to stifle, they were so confused, that they could not, for the moment, comprehend why we were thus attired. When told that we intended being in England in ten days, they ex- claimed, * Impossible !' and argued against the attempt, as nothing better than the effect of insanity, insisting that we were obstinately running, with our eyes open, into the very mouth of destruction. But as such re- marks, if listened to, might only have tended to create intlecision, we shook hands, and said, * Good night.' When about to depart, Cadell observed, we had better wait a few minutes, as it was then very star-light, and nearly a calm. His advice was attended to, and we im- patiently waited the passing of a cloud, in the hope of its increasing the obscurity ; but the clouds dispersed, the wind died away, and nothing disturbed the silence of the night but the watch-calls of the sentinels, and the occasional footsteps of the patroles. This anxious state of suspense continued until two o'clock, when we again rose to depart, but were prevented by the kind interfer- ence of our friends, who insisted on our waiting a little lonjrer, arguing, that as I had met with many disappoint- ments, and had so repeatedly avowed my intention to act prudently, we ought to wait, even till the morrow- night, if necessary. * What folly,' continued Ricketts, * to blast all your prospects by false notions of honour :* but the idea of flinching at this crisis was so repugnant 104 F.«;( Ari'i or i,uarrr.NANT i»ovs \ to inv f(M'lint>B, nnd so woini( M'.mlhrr miniifr. On rcllccliou, lunvpvor, I UAi tl\o ])r« priol y oT his ivinurUf, niul also Ihni onr lihcr- ty nnlnu, in n gnnt ini'Msino, doprndcni upon my «liH«Mvlion, it luliovcd m»^ not to allow my judgment to bo intlmMUMMJ by tho opiiiioiiH of tlu» illibi ral or liot- lioadod, who 1 frarcd would attribntr «»nr delay to othor oausrs than tluM-ral one. However, that uiattenMl littlo: patient and persevering, W(» an\it)nsly watehed the stars,, and, Rensihiv alive to ev^rv thins* that eonid tor « mo- ment en»lani>er thiM'onlidc nee reposed in me hy n»y com- panions. I listened with attenti(»n to their opinions, when, binding' tlieni to coincide with n»y own, and the clock now striking- three, we agreed to postpone the attcm[)t till the t'ollowirig night, and then start ahont eight, p.m. All present pronHS( d secrecy : we replaced the well-rope, returned onr knapsacks to the care of the greyhounds, and retiivd io bed. "The next morning nothing material occurred: the n\ovemcnts of the ]"receding night were unsuspected. In the afternoon we anniscd onrsidves with writing ii tlio f»fi|K>Rliit< dfjors ; a • pmrfiT of nil lumr Hl'trrwanls, WliilcliiirHt, ari'l Mfin«»'ll won* fo loUow. Uy IIh'm: inoans we Miminislwwl tlio risk Htt«vvin^ very fresh, and was so (hirk find (doudy that not a star (mmiUI he seen; the leaves were falliriL,^ in ahiiiMlanee, and, as they were hlovvn over tho stoncH, kc|»t up a constant rustlinj< noise, whi( h was jiarlicularly favouraldc; to the enterprise ; indeed, things wore so promising an appearance, that wo res(dved to take leave of a few other of our brother officers. Ac- cordingly, Messrs Ifalford, Rocdifort, Wright, Miller, Mahony, liobinson, and two otlu^rs, wore invited ; to these 1 detailed our exact situation, the difficulties wc hali tl)o jrardiMi and pallisadcM, crossed ilio road, and clinihrd siltMitly upon onr Iiands and Uihm'R nj» the hank, at tlio back ol' tlio north gnard room, lyin;^'^ pcrlVctly si ill as the .sentinels approached, and, as they receded, airain advancing);, until we readied the ])arnp«'t over ilie gateway, leadinjr to the upper citadel. Here the hreaat- work over which wo had to creep was ah«»ut five feet high and fourteen thick, and it h<>in,q; the hij^ljest ])art of the citadel, wo were in danj^er of heinu; seiMi hy soverul sentinels below ; but, fortunately, the cold bh ak wind induced sonic of them to take 8helt(»r in their boxers. Witlj the utmost precaution wo crept upon the summit, and down the breastwork, towards the outer edf^' of the rampart, when tho sentinel made his qurrter-hourly cry of ' Sentinclle prenez garde i\ vous,' similar to onr * All's well ;' this, though it created for a moment rather an unpleasant sensation, convinced mc that wc had reached thus far unobserved. ** I then forced the ]>okev into the earth, and, by rising and falling Avith nearly my whole w^eight, hammered it down with my chest. About two feet behind, I did tho same with tho stake, then slipt the eye of the well-rope over the head of tho poker, and fastened a small line from the \ipper part of the poker to tho lower part of tlio stake. This done, we gently let the rope down through one of the grooves in the rampart, which re- ceived a beam of the drawbridge when up. I then cautiously descended this half chimney, as it were, by the rope. When 1 had reached about two-thirds of the way down, part of a brick fell, struck against the side, and rebounded against my chest ; this I luckily caught between my knees, and carried down without noise. " I crossed the bridge, and waited for Hunter, who de- scended with equal care and silence. We then entered the revelin, proceeded through the arched passage which forms an obtuse angle with a massive door leading to i i iV riioM A rnr.\( ii rj;isf»v. lar iciciillv pflHSCfl >'i)l, find Iwink, crrcclly Tccded, )vrr ilio l)lTftSt- pvo i\vi part of H?! vera I k wind 1)0X(\S. iiinniit, of tliu y]y cry hor an vac lied / rising K'red it flid tlio H-ropo ill line I)nrt of down ich re- [ then TO, by of tl)0 3 side, ?anglit e. ho de- iitercd which ing to i]>o ni'pcr citfidcl, nnd with my [(icklock cu'lravonrrfl to f>j)«Mi it ; lint not findiiif; tlio holt yichl with ^critic prcs- Hurc, I added the otlnr hand, and gradually incna^'d the force, nntil, hy exerting' my whoh; strcfi;cMi, s<»me- tiling' hrokr. J thrn tried if) fih; iiif catcdi off the Ixdt, hilt that hcin^ caHt iron, the file made no impreHnion ; wr then endr/ivoiired to cut away the st(»ne in the wall "whifh receives the holt, hut that was fortified with n hnr of iron, so that it was im[»ractieahle. 'J'ho i)iek locks were again ajiplied, hut with no hettileH, and float along the canal on our !»acks, there ])eing too little water to swim and too nnndi mnd to ford it. ]Iimt<'r, with the most (hdiherate coolness, suggested tiie getting up the rope again, aiid att( nij)tiiig some other part of the lortress. Jn the midst of our consultation, it occurred to nie that it would he possible to undermine the gate : this plan was no sooner j)roposed than com- menced, hut having no other iin[»lements than our pocket knives, some time ela])sed before we could indulge any reasonable hopes of suecess : the pavement fetonea nnder the door were about ten inches square, and so closely bound together, that it was a most difficult and tedious process. About a quarter of an hour had been thus employed, when we were alarmed by a sudden noise, similar to the distant report of a gun, echoing in tremulous reverberations through the arched passage ; and as the sound became fainter, it resembled the cau- tious opening of the great gate, creating a belief that we were discovered. We jumped up, drew back towards the bridge, intending, if possible, to steal past the gendarmes, and slip down the piles into the canal ; but the noise subsiding, we stood still, fancying we heard the footsreps of a body of men. " The recollection of the barbarous murderers at Biche, on a similar occasion, instantly presented itself to my Bensitive imagination j it is impossible to describe the i 188 ESCAPE OF LIEUTENANT BOYS I ' :i H 1 conflicting sensations which rushed upon my mind dur- ing this awful pause. Fully impressed with the convic- tion of discovery, and of falling immediate victims to the merciless rage of ferocious blood-hounds, in breathless anxiety I stood and listened, with my knife in savage grasp, waiting the dreadful issue, when, suddenly, I felt a glow flush through my veins, which hurried me on with the desperate determination to succeed, or make a sacrifice of life in the attempt. "We had scarcely reached the turning when footsteps were again heard, and, in a whispering tone, * Boys.* This welcome sound created so sudden a transition from desperation to serenity, from despair to so pleasing a conviction of success, that in an instant all was hope and joy. Reinforced by our two friends, we again returned to our work of mining, with as much cheerfulness and confidence as though already embarked for England. They told us the noise was occasioned by the fall of a knapsack, which Mansell, unable to carry down the rope, had given to White- hurst, from whom it slipped, and falling upon a hollow sounding bridge, between two lofty ramparts, echoed through the arched passage with sufficient efi^ect to ex- cite alarm. Whitehurst, with much presence of mind, stood perfectly still when lie landed on the bridge, and heard the sentinel walk up to the door on the inside, and stand still also ; at this time they were not more than four feet from each other ; and had the sentinel stood listening a minute longer, he must have heard Mansell land. "Three of us continued mining until half-past ten, when the first stone was raised, and in twenty minutes the second. About eleven, the hole was large enough to allow us to creep under the door. The drawbridge was up ; there was, however, sufficient space between it and the door to allow us to climb up ; and the draw- bridge being square, there was, of course, an opening under the arch. Through this opening we crept, lowered ourselves down by the second rope, which was passed FROM A FRENCH PRISON. 109 ind dur- ! convic- is to the •eathless I savage y, I felt me on make a reached nd, in a created y, from it in an ur two g, with already se was lansell, White- hollow echoed to ex- mind, e, and e, and than stood ansell ten, nutes lOugh ridge Jen it raw- ning ''ered issed f # I round the chain of the briuj?;e, and keeping both parts in our hands, landed on the *guarde fous/* Had" these bars been taken away, escape would have been impossible, there not being sufficient rope for descending into the ditch. By keeping both pans of it in our hands, the last man was enabled to bring it away, otherwise four ropes would have been necessary. *' We then proceeded through another arched passage, with the intention of undermining the second door ; but, to our great surprise and joy, we found the gendarmes had neglected to lock it. The drawbridge was up. This, however, detained us but a short time; we got over, crossed the ditch upon the *guarde fous,' as before, and landed in the upper citadel. We proceeded to the north- east curtain, fixed the stake, and fastened the rope upon the breastwork for the fourth descent. As I was getting down, with my chest against the edge of the parapet, the stake Qiivc way. Wliitehurst, who was sitting by it, snatched hold of the rope, and Mansell of his coat, whilst 1 endeavoured to grasp the grass, by which I was saved from a fall oi" about ^^////ee^ Fortunately, there was a solitary tree in the citadel ; from this a second stake was cut, and the rope doubly secured as before. We all got down safe with our knapsacks, except White- hurst, who, when al)out two-thirds of the way, from placing his feet against the rampart, and not letting them slip so last as his hands, got himself in nearly a horizontal position ; seeing his danger, I seized the rope, and placed myself in rather an inclined posture under him ; he fell upon my arm and shoulder with a violent shock. Fortunately neither of us were hurt ; but it is somewhat remarkable, that within the lapse of a few minutes we preserved each other from probable destruc- tion. " The vivid imagination of the indulgent reader will * The "gunrde fous" are two iron bars, one above the other, suspended by chains on each side of the bridge— when down, serving the purpose of hand- rail). H ■ It i. 11H> r.5rArr.. or MKiTr.NANT nnvs lot lor liopiof \\\',\\\ I «';»n ilr^rrilu* o\ir IVolitifiM of Hn« inn- uuM\(on"< period; mifVu'o II |o piiy, lluil \v«' JH'Mrliiy <'oii ^M'nlnl.ilo»l iMn-flolvoH upon ovir movidenllMl hihtphh, iirirr a pr»vilo\is nm! lMl»oiionn work o\' llnco lioinn iiihI llinM« »|njnlorf ; nnsrrv«Ml ou llio mo\nnl, v.lnt'lt iinnfiiniilion, vwv on {\w mIimI. molinnovpl\oH«Ml inio f»«'nt|i'.!JiirH in nnilniHli ; >vo. lh>\>i^v«M", niMrrhod on, \vlu>n, Io onr no Pinjill irli»>r, i\wy >vero disoovon'il (o Im> onlile. (ininin^ ll»o liigli road, wo )>!V<«imI (two nnd (wo, mImmjI lorly pnoosnpnii) thnni>)]\ t\ vow long villMiio. «»'nl luvvinn IrMvidli'd Ihioo or four niilos, IVII onr^olvoa ho ovoos'^ivoly lliirwiy Hwil wo sloppod Io drinU Ml a diloh; in I ho lU'l td' Rloopinj*-, a fuddiMi llaf^h or li}>hlninu. iVoni sonlhward, so IVIfjMonod Uf» (s\ipposinj> il («» W po»l .1 sooond linio, and w»ro pn^vonlod hy a nooond i];»>»h. whioh ol.innod u^* vww n»oro Ihiui I ho lirsl, for W(» o*>nld not por"*nMdo onrstdvos il wmh iijihlning, llnuigh no ivporl wj»M IjoMrd. IVdlowinu np I In' rojnl hi ipnok n^u'oh, onr Mfl«MUit>n w.-is s\nldonlv arrowlod hya. draw- hridiio, whioli hoinsv indioaliv*^ ol' a lorlHiotl plaoo, wo suspoolot! a gii.nd houm» so at tho othor oxirotnity wonhl ho also opon, and ihoivfv^iv }>nsl\od forward. Wo drank t\i iln> pnnip in tlio s«jnaro. whon it w;»>^ rcM'olh'olotl thai (his was tho lit tlo town of St Ani.nivi. Pirootinj? onr oonrHo hy tho north star, wliioh was oooasionally visihlo, wo passod thivnijh without sooiui; a oroat\iro. " Ahout an hour aftorwards, still oonlinuin^f a stoady paoo. to\ir stor.t Adhnvs rusluul out from hohind a hodgo, juid vl( niandod whoro wo woro goiuj;. Whilohurst and Mausoll iniiuvHliatoly ran up ; and us wo proviounly re- pwm A r»«i NMi f•nrNo^f. tU) ♦ ilv roti- »'Hs, nil Of iihI lliio** n »M»st- ll ol»j«M'|PI ion, v\rv lunlmMli ; III) rrlii'T, llio lii^l) OS npnrl ) I«>(l ihlTO vrI V l'>nl. oopin^, a if»l\l0IH»(l iihIamkI of ur. Wo ft rocoimI I, lor wo loiigli no lit) (|iiiol( 1) limw- 1(100, wo woro at. hlitnonl ; ») nstorn, IIi'mikIi tlioy hHII UopI, nonr IIS.* In llio oourso f»r h »(iinrt<'r nif tw liotir, on jiirninf^ ns niii^lo ol" liM> roM«l, wo lo«f. pijjiif, oF flMrn, niul oonliiMiod a nipid niMnli, frofpif-nlly rniiniiiK, orilil hImmiI, livo A. M., vvlion wo worn iiiioxpoofo'lly slojipofl l.y llic rloMCfl ^tifcM ol' »i foWM. Wo rofnicod our slopM n sliurl, flislMiKo, in llio l)o|i»» ol" 'liHrovoriniij soni(« oIImt rond, Itiil, wo oonid Dnd iioitluT n loofpnMi, nor wof»d, nor nny ollirr pl/ioo (d" oonooMlmont,. Wo (jiiif.fod Mio liijj;li rood, nnd drow fowords n ri.sinj^ ^^ronnd, IIl'To to Wdil llio dtiwn ol' d/iy, in }|io liitpo «d' rotroutifij( t'» «orno noi;f|ilioni in;( rop-;o. No Hooiior lui'l wo Inid ourwijvf.s upon tli»> irnnmd, tliiin wlorp ovoronino iih, ** ( Mir intoiition wns, if no woofi conld l»o soon, toj/oto nn ndjoiniiiji; pioiifdicd liidd, nnd tlioro sonit* li n lio|»> in wliicli wo wov< r, was nia '! rhi' !ntM).M Hnt't t't.Mt|(ii|i"i III'* lnli» ""Hfiff ti'nti tl\i- ' \i I. ni>H» isu llii> IHli m| IMim. |»iii|(h<' liildtltiftllMti n v 1m ivoiilil i\\\{ nil ttmiM lu. In ti 'tdhu-i'i f»f !' ^ilplH il;nlt. \n< n«Mn'li<'il iliMvtt Inutt niti (iltd'c of • •.Md>t'>|ndM\( <<> Hd« |\i«'d'lt. MItil fl'i 'tnon MM |l|i' |(Ml»n|<> Iddl ^v<<5'i«i|. \\\i^ |Mi\rili' ''IijhmI \t ;ri ntMili' tnul (Hctn i-ifwl, 'I'lif. t^oMt filitliHt) illiMilh in Mldui> \\\i\\ ntiinii'il (ififi, n p vit"l\tM< Im \\\\\\ \\\" iMpMlM "'I lldMinlil, (Kill, in fin In ptt^Ul. UtMO III! "mI'i' mI|i>mI ; I'Mfll Mil -I'll (Ml iiMI. Midi, < it)'^''^><"'l\ Mppl\ IHM III-; iHniO'tl mIiimI|)IIi, n i> mmmii (rfidifl Im'\ i>n>l fid' 1 Mtnw" i>l '(Id'l . " If \< I'vr in \ Min \innfr«< \\'.\A \\r\^\\<\\)\ "\\r\\ n clinni)!' n( rvlii-nidM, (ld»l I l^^n^<. il Mn\ii!'>f M i-nnridiinn •»! apHMi'M. n '' cinilil Iniiid'li '.\\,\\ .H\i";f l^^n-||>l^^^ dl Hd> ilpin t'ldMIMlnll'i \^ Ili'il «'ftn »\:\\\{ \\\h\\ Iddl iMV»«'irii'il nn |ld< nilinl: nm. Iidlix.d «^^nl^l \< d Vrlinnnlih ild* dii. Ini' ••iniljnnd< n >». ll\«' \\ Idd d\p;»nM(' ol liliiMl> oj»iMii'<| iinniidl iim, mi'l \\\ i\\o ili^ftMii td;n »'»l i( ntin iiml hininpli Ad dflvdl dhi«M'J inldVddpldil ild' IddlldlldMM |nnHpi>(( f*:U d (> 'idlifinx }\nM ImIij, >\liiflt \m\^ mihmi Mppmndlicd "N.lfndy^iN rM\\id\IM fd pi'ddlMMl \V 11 h (Ijiipllldll, Wd pUM'iiil »M). :\\\A, nndl>-idv> d]V!\« tli'ii'dVdVdil ninKinn ImvnnlM mm. hi'liic in uo fxNU' o< l^nM\d]MUdn lluH vdnJMiii.j^ ^o Imi IVniti ImikI. vd l\(Md td ; t)\\\\, Idn in»v inmld Ihd tiHiddi- MnjiiMinlcij uifh <1\o dit^Mnu^lrtMOd^ nl owv dinliinhMlinii ntid iIi'hHiui t^^'K mMW ^yyvwA iho N.W. ,V)h>\»l nodn. Ilu» uiml hIIII lndi-dnRiii|», mimI tho sort vi"*\uj:. i< »HM iKM'indil pnidnii (n oloMd-rdol" IIh> ^^-i f Iff. 1 Aurt't'rrn <>r < i>ttt' lU!) t(l|Mt«»H»HMf| tfillifi dm-. jtflhnl" l»'»il |VI'|i'*l 'I lif> i' ultif'- flilf'i wrr-" n'cfi. AjMi'Mifi'f) 'nir f'lhtffi'i'tn '//nn ti\i('iu\y r'vil''!" '."iMi ' i'ly f""l ('I'l'lff' ; •/ nfill Mif riffif, ^(|r|if /if 'iitr fiiiH ''• f'li'ir'-, fiff' r fi I'lfijif un ri\ifHf'('^ riiiijili (| U'lfli fli" r< ' '.II' 'H'lfi 'if f 'ifi'i ri't' 'I 'lift'cif If !/•«(, ♦"tJ-il'-'l Mi'f''i"''l lifi(i|'iri' >• I, firi'l nfl'iT'l' 'I fifn|»l'' f'fffi liffi'ifif inn f'lf ii'i''> ' iifl' f inp", fli'Mr(/li riif //ithoijh a |il'"»i'ilntr liM|i»< fliMf nr'iffi'if cifr woiil'l li'- flcir rr-z/nr'). "(hi I'niliiii; in wifli fi fi«iliifr/r nrnfi'l^, /it Hk' h.'i'I: of fh'* f] rnirn' ronq sij/r-ffnt'/r-', f ffll (I'twn fiii'l li i'|i('(«i ill!' Hind n'l. tin-l • I V nml l'"<' itnil liintn|ili (.•i'» |nn'Hii"l unjnniirln'l li, m> (tirvicil Mn illMlfMnM'. Im um. n«'ii!• jMMjUiiinlixl I ntnl (loMJinii lipid |tin)'.n>^^« iHMM»nRin|',. Mild rlnMo-rooi" ll»'» rffAr'M fr vr MiKvovfr.v'A Of v;\Tf;ffp'„ A r»f| n «f>lf lK>rr> f/'rthir 'nn'rjiy, I fi** nrrh ii(»rf>nr«'l ^17 ndtiir^'* Arrhif#>rt - Tur /•?,/•. yn Ttw. r,Aftyr»fvTfr op fflexing than the rest, in length about 1200 paces, leads to the further end of the labyrinth, and concludes in two largo beautiful apartments, where strangers rest themselves with pleasure. Though this alley divides itself, at its extremity, into two or three branches, yet the dangerous part of the labyrinth is not there, but rather at its entrance, about some thirty paces from the cavern on the loft hand. If a man strikes into any other path, after he has gone a good way, he is be- wildered among a thousand twistings, turnings, sinuo- sities, and turn-again lanes, that he could scarce ever get out again without the utmost danger of being lost. Our guides therefore, chose this principal alley, without deviating either to the right or left. In traversing this alley, we measured 11 GO good paces. It is from seven to eight feet high, ceiled with a stratum of rocks, horizontal and quite flat, as arc most beds of stone in those parts. And yet there are some places where a man must stoop a little ; nay, about the middle of the route, you meet with a passage so very strait and low, that you must creep upon all-fours to get along. ^ THE LAnvniNTH op crkte. 105 I can passage, id intricacies and withont 'ity or inside , southward, y a natural so low, that mghiWithout very rugged nninated by 10 upon an- id of cavern, this there in forward, tlu! turnings and !h is less per- ) paces, leads concludes in trangcrs rest illey divides iranehes, yet )t there, but CCS from the tes into any y, he is be- iiings, sinuo- arce ever get g lost. Our ey, without ) good paces, th a stratum [lost beds of some places the middle •y strait and get along. (Jcnerally speaking, the grand walking-place is broad enough for three or four to go abreast. Its pavement is smooth, v/ithout many ups or dowuH. The walls arc either cut perpendicular, or made of stones which fonncrly choked up the passage, and which are disposed with a studied regularity. But so many alleys offer themselves on all sides, that you must take the utmost care how you proceed. Being befor !-hand resolved to make the best of our way out of thiti subterranean maze, our first care was to post one of our guides at the mouth of the cavern, with orders to fetch people from the next town to come and help us out, in case we returned not before night. In the second place, each of us carried a large lighted flam- beaux in his hand ; thirdly, at every difficult turning we fastened on the right hand scrolls of paper num- bered ; fourthly, one of our guides dropt, on the left, small bundles of thorns, and another scattered straw all the way on the ground. In this manner we got safe enough to the further end of the labyrinth, where the grand walk divides itself into two or three branches, and where there are likewise two rooms or apartmcnte, al- most round, about four toises in breadth, cut in the rock. Here are diverse inscriptions made with charcoal ; such as — " Father Francisco Maria Pcsaro Capuchin^*' — ** Frather TiidfMs Nicolaus," and over against it, " 15f31>;" further on, " 1444." As likewise, " Qui fu el strenuo Signor Zan de Como Cap"", del Ln Fanteria, 1520." In English, ' Here was the valiant Sif/nor John de Co- mOy captain of foot, 162G." Among these writings there are some really wonderful. This corroborates the sys- tem proposed by me some years ago, concerning tlie vegetation of stones, which, in this labyrinth, increase and grow sensibly, without being suspected to receive the least adventitious matter from without. When the persons were graving their names on the walls of this place, which are of living rock, little did they imagine that the furrowings wrote bv their pen-knives would bt 1r1^ i! ■f lOG THE LABYRINTH OF CRETE. insoiisibly filled np, and in time adorned with a sort ol embroidery, about a line high in some places, and near three lines in others ; so that these characters, instead of being hollow and concave, as they were at first, are now turned convex, and come out of the rock like basso re- lievo. The matter of them is white, though the stone they issue from is greyish. I look upon this basso re- lievo to be a kind of callosity formed by the nutritious juice of the stone, extravasated by little and little into the above-mentioned channellings made by the graver, like as callosities are formed at the extremities of the fibres of broken bones. Having taken these precautions, it was easy enough to find our way out. But after a thorough examination of the structure of this labyrinth, wc all concurred in opinion, that it could never have been what Bellonias, and some other of the moderns, have fancied, namely, an ancient quarry, out of which were dug the stones that built the towns of Gortyna and Gnossus. Is it likely they would go for stone above 1000 paces deep, into a place so full of odd turnings, that it is next to impossible to disentangle one's self? Again, how could they draw these stones through a place so pinched in, that we were forced to crawl our way out for above 100 paces together? Besides, the mountain is so craggy, and full of precipices, that we had all the difficulty in the world to ride up it. It is therefore, much more probable, that the labyrinth is a natural cavity, which, in times past, some body, out of curiosity, took a fancy to try what they could make of by widening most of those passages that were so much straitened. To raise the ceiling of it, they only took down some beds of stone, which quite throughout the mountains are horizontally deposited ; in some places they cut the walls plumb down, and in clearing the passages, they took care to place the stones very orderly. The reason why they meddled not with the narrow neck, mentioned before, was perhaps to let posterity know how the rest was naturally made ; for beyond that place, the SULPHUR MOUNTAIN. 107 th a sort ol 2S, and near s, instead of rst, are now ke basso re- h the stone lis basso re- e nutritious d little into the graver, litics of the y enough to jxamination oncurred in it Bellonias, , namely, an stones that Is it likely leep, into a ) impossible I they draw lat we were es together? f precipices, ) ride up it. e labyrinth e body, out could make )Ye so much only took ughout the places they 18 passages, erly. The rrow neck, know how t place, the ■^ "•>; alley is as beautiful as on this side. It would be a diffi- cult task to rid away the stones beyond ; unless they were broken to powder, they could never be brought through this gut-like passage. The ancient Cretans, who were a very polite people, strongly devoted to the fine arts, took a particular pleasure in finishing what had been but sketched out by nature. Doubtless, some shepherds having discovered tlic sul^tcrranean conduits, gave occa- sion to more consideral)lc people to turn it into this marvellous image, to serve for an asylum in the civil wars, or to screen themselves from the fury of a tyran- nical government. At present it is only a retreat for bats and the like. This place is extremely dry, not the least water-fall, congellution, nor drain, to be seen. We were told, that in the hills nigh the labyrinth, there were two or three other natural openings of a vast depth, in the rock, which they may try the same experiments upon, if they have a mind. Through the whole island there are a world of caverns, and most of quick rock ; especially in Mount Ida, there are holes you may i-un your head in, bored through and through ; many very deep and perpen- dicular abysses are seen there. May there not be also many horizontal conduits? especially in such places, where tlib layers of stone are horizontal upon one another. TourneforCs Voyage into the Levant, SULPHUR MOUNTAIN. The 25th was a delio^htful day, and having taken an early breakfast of biscuit, cheese, and milk, we set out towards the Sulphur Mountain, which is about three miles dis- tant from Krisuvik. At the foot of the mountain was a small bank composed chiefly of white clay, and some •ulphur, from all parts of which steam issued. Ascend- ing it, we got upon a ridge immediately above a deep >#*' ' 198 SULPHUR MOUNTAIN. hollow, from which a profusion of vapour arose, and heard a confused noise of boiling and splashing, joined to the roaring of the steam escaping from narrow crevices in the rock. This hollow, together with the whole side of the mountain opposite, as far up as we could see, was covered with sulphur and clay, chiefly of a white or yellowish colour. Walking over this soft and steaming surface we found to be very hazardous ; and I was frequently very uneasy when tlie vapour concealed my friends from me. The day, however, being dry and warm, the sulphur was not so slippery as to occasion much risk of our falling. The chance of the crust of sulphur breaking, or the clay sinking with us, was great, and we were several times in danger of being scalded. Mr. Bright ran at one time a great hazard, and suffered considerable pain from accidentally pL nging one of his legs into the hot clay. From whatever spot the sulphur is removed, steam instantly escapes ; and in many places the sulphur was so hot, that we could scarcely handle it. From the smell, I perceived that the steam was mixed with a small quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. When the thermometer was sunk within the clay, it rose generally to within a few degrees of the boiling point! By stepping cautiously, and avoiding every little hole from which steam issued, we soon discovered how far we might venture. Our good fortune, however, ought not to tempt any person to examine this wonderful place without being provided with two boards, with which any one may cross every point of the banks in perfect safety. At the bottom of this hollow we found a cauldron of boiling mud, about fifteen feet in diameter, similar to that on the top of the mountain which we had seen the even- ings before ; but this boiled with much more vehemence. We went within a few yards of it, the wind happening to be remarkably favourable for viewing every part of this singular scene. The mud was in constant agitation, and often thrown up to the height of six or eight feet. Near this spot was an irregular space filled with water, if / SULPHUR MOUTTAIN. 109 arose, and ing, joined iw crevices whole side Id see, was k white or d steaming md I was cealed my y dry and occasion le crust of , was great, ag scalded, id suifered ; one of his he sulphur lany places ely handle steam was hydrogen n the clay, the boiling iing every discovered e, however, J wonderful with which in perfect a cauldron lilartothat 1 the even- irehemence. happening ery part of t agitation, ■ eight feet, vith water, boiling briskly. At ihe foot of the hill, in a hollow formed by a bank of clay and sulphur, steam rushed with great force and noise from among the loose fragments of rock. Farther up the mountain we met with a spring of cold water, a circumstance little expected in a place like this. Ascending still higher, we came to a ridge com- posed entirely of sulphur and clay, joining two summits of the mountain. Here we found a much greater quan- tity of sulphur than on any other part of the surface we had gone over. It formed a smooth crust from a quarter of an inch to several inches in thickness. The crust was beautifully crystallized. Immediately beneath it we found a quantity of loose granular sulphur, which ap- peared to be collecting and crystallizing, as it was sub- limed along with the steam. Sometimes we met with clay of dififerent colours, white, red and blue, under the crust ; but we could not examine this place to any depth, as the moment the crust was removed steam came forth, and proved extremely annoying. We found several pieces of wood, which were probably the remains of planks that had been formerly used in collecting the sulphur, small crystals of which partially covered them. There appears to be a constant sublimation of this sub- stance, and were artificial chambers constructed for the reception and condensation of the vapours, much of it might probably be collected. As it is, there is a large quantity on the surface, and by searching, there is little doubt that great stores may be found. The inconvenience proceeding from the steam issuing on every side, from the heat, is certainly considerable ; but by proper pre- cautions, neither would be felt so much as to render the collection of the sulphur a matter of great difficulty. The chief obstacle to working these mines is, their dis- tance from a port whence the produce could be shipped. But there are so many horses in the country, whose ori- ginal price is trifling, and whose maintenance during summer costs nothing, that the conveyance of sulphur to Reikiavik presents no difficulties which might not pro- 200 SULPHUR MOUNTAIN. ; !! ■ I' ' I bably be surmounted. Below the ridge, on the farther side of this great bed of sulphur, we saw a great deal of vapour escaping with much noise. We crossed to the side of the mountain opposite, and found the surface sufficiently firm to admit of walking cautiously upon it. We had now to walk towards the principal spring, as it is called. This was a task of much apparent danger, as the side of the mountain, for the extent of about half a mile, is covered with loose clay, into which our feet sunk at every step. In many places there was a thin crust, below which the clay was wet, and extremely hot. Good fortune attended us, and we reached without any serious inconvenience, the object we had in view. A dense column of steam, mixed with a little water, was forcing its way impetuously through a crevice in the rock, at the head of a narrow valley or break in the mountain. The violence with which it rushes out is so great, that the noise thus occasioned may often be heard at the dis- tance of several miles ; and during the night, while lying in our tent at Krisuvik, we more than once listened to them with mingled awe and astonishment. Behind tlie column of vapour was a dark coloured rock which gave it its full effect. It is quite beyond my power to offer such a description of this extraordinary place as to con- vey adequate ideas of its wonders or its terrors. The sensations of a person, even of firm nerves, standing on a support which feebly sustains him, over an abyss where literally fire and brimstone are in dreadful and incessant action — having before his eyes tremendous proofs of what is going on beneath him — enveloped in thick vapours, his ears stunned with thundering noises : — these can hardly be expressed in words, and can only be well con- ceived by those who experienced them. Sir G, Mackenzie's Travels in Iceland, 1 201 as THE GEYSERS. The most enrapturing scene, in Iceland, that we beheld, was exhibited on tne morning of the 30th of July 1814. About ten minutes past five, we were roused by the roar- ing of Stockr, which blew up a great quantity of steam ; and when my watch stood at the full quarter, a crash took place as if the earth had burst, which was instan- taneously succeeded by jets of water and spray, rising in a perpendicular column to the height of sixty feet. As the sun happened to be behind a cloud, we had no ex- pectation of witnessing any thing more sublime than we had already seen ; but Stockr had not been in action above twenty minutes, when the Great Geyser, appar- ently jealous of her reputation, and indignant at our be- stowing so much of our time and applause on her rival, began to thunder tremendously, and emitted such quan- tities of water and steam, that we could not be satisfied with a distant view, but hastened to the mound with as much curiosity as if it had been the first eruption we had beheld. However, if she was more interesting in point of magnitude, she gave the less satisfaction in point of duration, having again become tranquil in the course of five minutes ; whereas, her less gaudy, but more steady companion, continued to play till within four minutes of six o'clock. Our attention was so much taken up with these two principal fountains, that we had little time or inclination to watch the minutite of the numerous inferior shafts ana cavities with which the track abounds. The Little Geyser erupted perhaps twelve times in the twenty-four hours ; but none of its jets rose higher than eighteen or twenty feet, and generally they were about ten or twelve. The pipe of this spring opens into a beautiful circular bason about twelve feet in diameter, the surface of which ex- hibits incrustations equally beautiful with those of the Great Geyser. At the depth of a few feet, the pipe. r 202 THE GEYSERS. f I I' which is scarcely three feet wide, becomes very irregular ; yet its depth has been ascertained to be thirty-eight feet. There is a large steam-hole at a short distance, to the north-west of the little Geyser, which roars and be- comes quiescent with the operations of that spring. A little further down the track are numerous apertures, some of which are very large, and, being full of clear boiling water, they discover to the spectator the perilous scaffolding on which he stands. When approaching the brink of many of them, he walks over a dome of petrifi- ed morass, hardly a foot in thickness, below which is a vast boiling abyss, and even this thin dome is prevented from gaining a due consistence, by the humidity and heat to which it is exposed. Near the centre of these holes is situated the Little Stockr, a wonderfully amus- ing little fountain, which darts i{s waters in numerous diagonal columns every quarter of an hour. Nor is it in this direction alone that orifices and cavi- ties abound. In a small gulley close to the Geyser, is a number of holes, with boiling water ; to tlic south of which, rises a bank of ancient depositions, containing apertures of a much larger size than the rest. One of these is filled with beautifully clear water, and discovers to a great depth various groups of incrustations which are very tempting to the eye of the beholder. The depth of this reservoir is not less than fifty feet. On the brow of the hiU, at the height of nearly two hundred feet above the level of the Great Geyser, are several holes of boiling clay; some of which produce sulphur, and the efflorescence of alum ; and at the base of the hill on the op- posite side, are not less than twenty springs, which prove that its foundations are entirely pei*forated with veins and cavities of hot water. On my return this way from the north, about the middle of August 1815, I again pitched my tent for two days, beside these celebrated fountains, and found their operations still more magnificent and interesting than they were the preceding year. The Great Geyser con- THE QETSERS. 203 re is tinned to erupt every six hours in a most imposing man- ner. In some of the eruptions, the jets seemed to be thrown much higher than any I observed last year, several of them reaching an elevation of not less than a hundred and fifty feet. What rendered my second visit to the Geysers pecu- liarly interesting, was my discovery of the key to Stockr, by the application of which, I could make that beauti- ful spring play when I had a mind, and throw its water to nearly double the height observable in its natural eruptions. The morning after my arrival, I was awak- ened by its explosion about twenty minutes past four o'clock ; and hastening to the crater, stood nearly half an hour contemplating its jet, and the steady and unin- terrupted emission of the column of spray which follow- ed, and which was projected at least a hundred feet into the air. After this, it gradually sunk into the pipe, as it had done the year before, and I did not expect to see another eruption till the following morning. However, about five o'clock in the afternoon, after a great quanti- ty of the largest stones that could be found about the place had been thrown into the spring, I observed it be- gin to roar with more violence than usual; and, ap- proaching the brink of the crater, I hsTd scarcely time to look down to the surface of the water, which was great- ly agitated, when the eruption commenced, and the boil- ing water rushed up in a moment, within an inch or two of my face, and continued its course with inconceivable velocity into the atmosphere. Having made a speedy retreat, I now took my station on the windward side, and was astonished to observe the elevation of the jets some of them rising higher than two hundred feet ; many of the fragments of stones were thrown much higher, and some of considerable size were raised to an invisilJe height. For some time, every succeeding jet seemed to surpass the preceding, till the quantity of water in the subterraneous caverns being spent, they gave place to 204 JETTING POOL IN THE il il the column of steam, which continued to rush up with a deafening roar for nearly an hour. The periodical evacuation of Stockr having been de- ranged by this violent experiment, no symptoms what- ever of a fresh eruption appeared the following morning. As I wished, however, to see it play once more before I bid an everlasting farewell to these wonders of nature, and, especially, being anxious to ascertain the reality of my supposed discovery, I got my servant to assist me, about eight o'clock, in casting all the loose stones we could find into the spring. We had not ceased five minutes, when the wished-for phenomena recommenced, and the jets were carried to a height little inferior to what they had gained the preceding evening. HendersorCs Iceland, JETTING POOL IN THE CRATER OF KRABLA, ICELAND. At the bottom of a deep guUey, lay a circular pool of black liquid matter, at least three hundred feet in cir- cumference, from the middle of which a vast column of the same black liquid was erupted with a loud thunder- ing noise; but, being enveloped in smoke till within about three feet of the surface of the pool, I could not form any idea of the height to which it rose. From every circumstance connected with the vast hollow in which this pool is situated, I could not but regard it as the remains of the crater ; which, after hav- ing vomited immense quantities of volcanic matter, has loosened the adjacent parts of the mountain to such a degree, that they have fallen in, and left nothing but the boiling cauldron to mark its site, and perpetuate in faint adumbrations the awful terrors of the scene. The sur- face of the pool may be about "seven hundred fcot below what appeared to be the higuest peak of Krabla, and CRATER OF KRABLA, ICELAND. 205 about two hundred feet below the opposite height on which I stood. Havih^ continued some minutes to disgorge its muddy contents, the violent fury of the spring evidently began to abate; and, as the ground along the west-side of the hollow seemed sufficiently solid, I got the guide to accompany me to the immediate precincts of the pool. On the north- ern margin rose a bank, consisting of red ]>olus and sul- phur, from which, as the wind blew from the same quar- ter, we had a fine view of the whole. Nearly about the centre of the pool is the aperture, whence the vast body of water, sulphur, anu bluish-black bolus, is thrown up, and which is equal in diameter to the column of water ejected by the Great Geyser at its strongest eruptions. The height of the jets varied greatly, rising, on the first propulsions of the liquid, to about twelve feet, and con- tinuing to ascend, as it were by leaps, till they gained the highest point of elevation, which was upwards of thirty feet, when they again abated much more rapidly than they rose ; and, after the spouting had ceased, the situation of the aperture was rendered visible only by a gentle ebullition, which distinguished it from the general sui-face of the pool. During my stay, which was up- wards of an hour, the eruptions took place every five minutes, and lasted about two minutes and a half. I was always apprised of the approach of an eruption by a small jetter that broke forth from the same pool, a little to the east of the great one, and was evidently connected with it, as there was a continual bubbling in a direct line between them. None of its jets exceeded twelve feet, and generally they were about five. Another bub- bling channel ran a little way to the north-west of the principal opening, but did not terminate in a jetter like the former. While the eruption continued, a number of fine silver waves were thrown round to the sides of the pool, which was lined with a dark blue bolus, left there on the subsidence of the waves. At the foot of the bank on which we stood, were numerous small holes, 206 THE MAMMOTH CAVE OF KENTUCKY . whence a quantity of steam was unren\ittingly escaping with a loud hissing noise ; and on the west side of the pool was a gentle declivity, where the water ran out, and was conveyed through a long winding guUey to the foot of the mountain. Henderson's Iceland, «■ 5 THE MAMMOTH CAVE OF KENTUCKY. The most remarkahle cavern that has been discovered in any part of the world, is that called the Mammoth Cave, in Kentucky, North America. What the true propor- tions of this cave are, as far as regards the length to which it penetrates into the earth, is not yet ascertained ; for, though it has been explored to the distance of be- tween nine and ten miles, no boundary has been reach- ed in any one of its numerous windings. The mere ex- tent of this excavation is sufficient to render it an object of interest, but the Mammoth Cave is not deficient in attractions in other points, though it is inferior to many other subterraneous cavities in the variety of its produc- tions, or in the beauty of its natural curiosities. In the district where the Mammoth Cave is situated, there are many other pits and caverns of lesser size, among the limestone formations, of which that region is almost wholly composed. A deep pit leads to the mouth of the cave, which is 30 feet in width, and from 40 to 60 feet high, and which seems like some frightful chasm in nature, whose hideous yawn allures the adventurer to its interior, only to bring him into impenetrable darkness. After advancing two or three hundred yards, however, the lofty arch of rock over the visitor's head gradually contracts on all sides, and for several paces it is necessary for a man to stoop, though oxen are admitted with faci- lity. The passage again expands to a width of 60 feet, and a height of about 20, which proportions it retains for nearly a mile. As the visitor approaches this part of the THE MAMMOTH CAVE OF KENTUCKY. 207 cave, an extraordinary spectacle meets his eye, which will remind him of the fabled labours of the blacksmith god Vulcan : in the centre of Mount Etna twenty or thirty blacks are seen, engaged, with the aid of torches and fires, in the labours of the cave, which consist in the manufacturing of saltpetre, a substance yielded in abun- dance by the earth of which the floor is composed. The saltpetre is separated by steeping the earth in water, which dissolves the salt, and afterwards deposits it by evaporation. This part of the cave is called the first Hoppers, and an exploring party generally supply them- selves here with a torch to each man, which is rendered absolutely necessary by the strong current continually rushing from the cold cave to the warm atmosphere without, and frequently blowing out some of the lights. From the first to the second Hoppers, where saltpetre is also manufactured, the distance is about one mile, and the cave is throughout nearly 60 feet high, and 40 in width. For almost the whole way between the entrance and the second Hoppers, the loose limestone has been laid up into handsome walls on both sides, and a good hard road has been also made. Though a few torches cannot show it to perfection, the arches are in general regular, and the walls perpendicular. Before the second Hoppers are reached, several pas- sages of nearly equal size branch off from the ones gene- rally followed, but tlie most of these return after a cir- cuit, and intersect or join the main line. Beyond the second Hoppers, the main passage expands to a height and width never less than 60 feet, which continues with little variation as far as the spot called the chief city, an immense area, eight acres in extent, and without one pillar to support the arch, which is entire over the whole. Nothing can be more sublimely grand than this vault, which mocks the proudest of human erections. The chief city is six miles from the mouth of the cave, and nearly straight south from it, though the approach is very circuitous. Five lofty avenues lead from this great nam H)\\ Tiir, MAMMivm rwr, m kf.mti uv. nnvi, vi\v\\ from (>() 1«) 100 fiM'l in wiillh, tvu\ Worn 40 (o no \W{ higlu \Vi» Rh.ill \\9v \\\o words ofa visilor iiiLr ll»o us(»' of it. U.vvin^- ojitornl loro ilic Mvonnrs lr;«(lin!> Ironj it, mikI he llnis drtiiils tlu' ivsuH: "Tin* tirst wliirh I IrMVcrMi d. MlV'r rnttiti^^ nr- roNVR on tlio stonos undtM- «oir li ct, poiniioi* lo tlio month oftluM'avo (intni't wo did tlii^ nt iho ontrnnco ol'ovory nvonno, that wi* nhoiild not hi' m1 m h>ss tor tho wav ont on our roturn) -was on«' t1)al h^l ns in a ponan five mihvs. " We rested onrselvos for a few minutes on some litne- stone slahs near tlie eonire of this !>loon»y area; and af- ter having refreshed onrselvos ami trinnniMl onr lamps, we took onr d<'partnre a second time throngh an avenne almost north, and parallel to the avenne l(\'»dini> troni the chief city to the n\onth of the cave, which we con- tinned for nj>wards of two miles, when we entered the second city. This is covered with one arch, n«'arly 200 feet high in the cei\trc, and very similar to the tirst city, except in the nnmher of avemn^s leading from it, this having hnt two. \\"c passed throngh it, over a very con- piderahlc rise in the centre, and >hich had a pure and «lelightfnl stream of water issning from the side of the wall ahont (50 feet high, and whicli fell npon some broken stones, and was afterwards entirely lost to our view. After passing this beautiful sheet of water a few yards, we came to the end of this passage. ** We then retunied about 1(X) yards, and entered a small avenue (over a considerable mjiss of stone) to our Tlir, MAMMOTH CAVK OF K»':NTII('Ky, 2()» r left, whif'li cfirriiMl im Houili, ilirou^li an iincoinmonly l)I»ick nvcimo, Rotnt'tliiii^ inorr ilitm a iiiil(», wlicn w« iih- ccihIcmI n vrry Ht»M*|) hill nboiit i\() yMidM, which ciirrit'd UH wilhiji (he wulla «»!" iho fourth <'ity, vvhi<'h Ih not in- ferior to the P"'(Mnnl, hiivinjr »in iircli timt cove rH at U)mt Hix lu'rea. In this hmt, iivcmic, the I'Mrther end of which must he four milefl from the chief 00 rods, very level and straight, with an elegant arch. When at the end of this avenue, and while I vvas sketching a plan of this cave, one of my guides, who had heen some time grop- ing among the hroken stones, called out, requesting me to follow him. 1 gathered up my papers and compass ; and after giving my guide who sat with me, orders to remain where he was until wo returned, and, moreover, to keep his lamp in good order, I followed the first, who had entered a vertical pasvsage just large enough to admit his hody. We continued stooping from one stone to another, until at last, after much difficulty from the smalluess of the paSvsage, which is ahout ten feet in height, we entered on the side of a chamher at least 180 feet in circumference, and whose arch is about 160 feet high in the centiv. After having marked arrows i)oint- ing downward upon the slab-stones around the little passage through which we had ascended, we walked for- ward nearly to the centre of the area. " It was past midnight when I entered this chamher of eternal darkness, where all things are hushed, and nature's self lies dead. I must acknowledge that I felt a shivering horror at my situation, when I looked back upon the different avenues through which I had passed, since I entered the cave at eight in the morning. With the guide who was now with me, I took the only avenue leading from this chamber, and traversed it to the dis- tance of a mile in a southern direction, when my lamps forbade my going farther, as they were nearly exhausted. I "i I f THE MAMMOTH CAVK Ol' KliNTI CKY. 211 The avenue, or passap^e, was oh large as any that wv had entered ; and how far we might have travelled, ha1 iho Konnil t>i!i(lo in H. Thi' ntn'h of 1ln«« nvnntio is vrv) l^t.unirul, rnrni'^lril \v\\h Wmviii^ut^, »yi\]\ luni in nirt)>y |>lrt«V!« 1bi> rolnnms of «prn mi* Imly olp^tiMf, r\- fom^tV'i <^>Mi) i\w vv\\'\\\^ ovv l^iul\ 'h, rt^^^^?1nM11ly <^0v frrt Intjh. Innui >vi1h rirh i^'rtpovy, fosloounl in n> i\\r Ufnyuinim. nwA in oolotn-s Hw inosl rioh rtt\i< hrillimif. *• Tho ool\tnn\'' of «5^>!n- (\n«^ <]\o slnlmMilo^ in llns rhmn h«M nn" ovtitnnly rotnnnlio in ihrir M|<|M>Mrinu't\ with tl^o ri^fh^rtion o< ono or f>>o lij^hH. Thrro is ii oinnr (x>rnn«! of Ihii sp^r. onlir«l W ilUin's inn» ohnir, nhirh i« >t»ry l-n-iiv. mnl «!<.'n\«ls it> il^o ronlrr of Hn' jumtn', nnd ii* onoiivlr«i »it!< tn.nw "ni.illor onos. rolnn\nM of npur i^nfivi. .-nu^ snn\nrr, Mn' shonn nilh Iho jitvrttost Inillirtnoy ft-^^n^ \\u' i>'1hof iMnipw. A pint of i\\i' hiw\\\ic\\ oh.'nnhm- is tliiriMly ovor ory nrtn>>>v »hMUo on tho \oft siilr of this ohnnihcr, nn«l rthont l<>t> vrtt>volvo fvot, whioh >^o |v»!«5st^l >v\th n>noh ptvortiition : for, h.-nl no slimuMl tnnn onr hoUt, xxo >vonhi h»no g^nio io i\\M • ho\inn» >Nh»''ntv no tivnvUor tvlnrnn,' if I in.-iy jnilijo fron^ ii o«tn- rrtot of >vrttov. >vho!«o «tisn\{U so\nu\ >vo hojn>l iii n oon- siiton-^Mo tlistrtnvv in tins pit. juut nourly \n\dor us. Uoxxvvor. WT »M>vvin»iin]ij »U>\vt\ nn\UM- tho htnmtotl oh«unhor, n\\\\ i]\\\>\\^]\ A wry nrtn>»\ paswigo for tliirty or l\»rty yiinlft, xvhon onr com^^"' Avrts wost, m\\\ tho pnssiiifi^ twoiity or tlnriy ttvt in >vi»Uh, «n»\ tnnn t<»n to oightoon high, for moiv than a milo. Tho air wrts pniv and »ioUglUf\il in tins as woll as in othor ixvrt* of tho c«vt\ At tho ftirthor Itlt'; MAMMtHII ( \\V. «tr KrNTIMKT. 2 in in or prirf of {\\\>* i«vr»nii', \\v «*fiin»' Mpf»tt n ri'^^prvnlr »»f wnfi-r, vmy rlf'im mul iIiIIi'IiHmI ♦«» flw lfiH((>, M|)|Hi(i(| liy i\n>m> roliiinnH, mill imiIcH'iI m hiikiII lull iMMiiiflful rliniiilif'r, nliMMp wnlh \v«Mr mImmiI IwimiIv f»'*'f Mp.'iif, mimI flio fin-fi nof iimii' flwiii Ri'Vrii lii^li, mIiHo mm nlill*' wmhIi coiilrl 1IImI(p II ; lln» flnoi- MMM IfVrl rt^ Imt fl« I »"Xp|(»nw| |f, ^vhirli WMS IM»I n /rrriil, tliHfniiro, mm I InuiMJ iiiMiiy pit- Iiolt'H in my pnlli, I Imf iipppfin-il fo Iihvp Im'Mi Idfrly P" lipniilifiil po»»l of WMl,»»r wliii-li if ♦Milled llio I'oul of ( 'liforiiiM, iiffpr flio * I'oim ('liforiim' of Hio rlMswirM, nliirli wmhho piin> mikI dcli^lilfiil fo tlii' f/inff, flinf, nffrr vp \v«>ro movill^• on, I ludirod ft Irttf^n nnnilKr of Dwm lulls Iiaiifring hy llioir liiiid Ir^M io llio nrcli, wliicli was ?iof, aliovo f urlvp inrlirfl lii^:li('r llimi my lioad. ( i<»ok my raiio, and gavo a Rworp flu* svludr Inigfli of it, when di»\vn tlipy fidl ; Imt soon, like so many impR, tlipy ior- iiumiIimI iiR lill wp rcarlii'd tlin narrow dofilo, whrn they lofl iiR. Wo rofiirnod l»y Mr. W ilk inn' ftrin-chair, and baok to fho Roouiid llopporn. i found a reinarkahie ; )■■ 2U THE MAMMOTH CAVE OP KENTUCKY. fc. , 1 mummy at this place, whither it had been brought by Mr.Wilkins, from anotlier part of the cave, for preserva- tion. It is a female, about six feet in height, and so perfectly dried that it weighed only twenty pounds when I found it. The hair on the back part of the head is rather short, and of a sandy hue ; the top of the head is bald, and the eyes sunk into the head ; the nose, or that part which is cartilaginous, is dried down to the bones of the face ; the lips are dried away, and have discovered a fine set of teeth, white as ivory. The hands and feet are perfect even to the nails, and delicate like those of a young person ; but the teeth are worn as much as those of a person of fifty. The preservation of this body is without doubt occasioned by the large proportion of saltpetre in the earth of the cave. "She must have been a personage of high distinction, if we may judge from the manner in which she wa? buried. Mr. Wilkins informed me that she was fi/st found by some labourers, while digging for saltpetre earth, in a part of the cave about three miles from the entrance, buried eight feet deep between four limestone slabs, seated with the knees brought close to the body, which is erect, the hands clasped, and laid upon the stomach ; the head upright. She was muffled up and covered with a number of garments made of a species of wild hemp and the bark of a willow which formerly grew in Ken- tucky. The cloth is of a curious texture and fabric, made up in the form of blankets or winding-sheets, with very handsome borders. Bags of different sizes were found by her side, made of the same cloth, in which were deposited her jovvels, beads, trinkets, and implements of industry : all of which are very great curiosities, being different fronx any thing of the Indian kind ever found in this country. "Among the articles was a musical instrument, made of two pieces of cane, put together in a manner resembling the double flageolet, and curiously interwoven with elegant feathers; she had likewise by her side a bowl of i f THE PETRIFIED CASCADE. 215 very fine workmanship, and a Vandyke made of feathers, very heautiful. "These trinkets and garments, exhumed alonj^ with the mummy, though curious, do not throw much light on the suhject of the former inhabitants of the great cave which has been described. If not of an Indian fashion, as Mr. Ward avers, neither do they indicate that the woman belonged to a highly civilized community. Pro- bably the skull of the mummy, whicli is still in Mr. Ward's possession, might point out, by its shape, the woman's race. " Much light, however, yet remains to be thrown on North American antiquities, and there is no spot, we think, more likely to assist in this, on further examina- tion, than the Mammoth Cave. THE PI:TRIFIED cascade of PAMBOUK K; '(ESI. The peninsula of Asia Minor is washed on three sides by the Mediterranean and the Black Seas, and on the east is joined to Persia by the mountain-range or system of the Taurus. This country, rich in historical associations, in- teresting also to the biblical student, as connected with the labours of the apostles, and the "Apocalyptic Churches," and whose surface may be said to be literally strewed with the ruins of its former magnificence and grandeur, is comparatively little known. Modern geo- graphers draw a considerable portion of their information respecting it from Strabo, who died a. d. 25. It formed one of the finest divisions of the Roman Empire. " The provinces of the east," says Gibbon, "present the contrast of Roman magnificence with Turkish barbarism. The ruins of antiquity scattered over uncultivated fields, and ascribed by ignorance to the power of magic, scarcely afforded shelter to the oppressed peasant or wandering Arab. Under the reign of the Ceesars, the proper Asia i^-'t. / ^t,. r— ..—— j i^ii nn i^ i rm 216 THE PETRIFIED CASCADE ■If alone contained ^ve hundred populous cities, enriched with all the gifts of nature, and adorned with all the re- finements of art. Eleven cities of Asia had once dis- puted the honour of dedicating a temple to Tiberius, and their respective merits were examined by the senate. Four of them were immediately rejected, as unequal to the burthen; and among these was Laodicea, whose splendour is still displayed in its ruins. Laodicea col- lected a very considerable revenue from its flocks of sheep, celebrated for the fineness of their wool ; and had received, a little before the contest, a legacy of above L.400,000 by the testament of a generous citizen. If such was the poverty of Laodicea, what must have been the wealth of those cities whose claims appeared prefer- able, and particularly of Pergamus, of Smyrna, and of Ephesus, which so long disputed with each other the titu- lar primacy of Asia." About six miles from Laodicea was Hierapolis, re- nowned for its mineral waters. These two ranked among the chief cities of Phrygia. Phrygia was the name of a very large central province of Asia Minor ; and the Phrygians boasted of being the most ancient people in the world. Tlie country exhibits decided marks of having been the seat of violent volcanic action ; Strabo describes a part of it as the Burnt Region ; of the country near the Moeander (the Mceander fiills into what is called the iEgean Sea, and now the Archipelago), he says, in his usual obscure manner, "nearly the whole district of the Moeander is liable to earthquakes, and is burrowed under by cnannels full of fire and water as far as the interior of the county." The whole western part of Asia Minor is full of thermal springs ; tiiey are found also at Brusa, near the range of Olympus. The rivers also are loaded with calcareous sediment, and like the streams of other countries where limestone prevails, are found unfit for drinking. The singular effects produced vy rapid deposition of calcareous matter, are noticed by Captain Beaufort at a place on the coast called Laara, near OF PAMBOUK KALESI. 217 the outlet of the river Catarrhacks; and he refers for similar instances to Chandler's description of the petrified cascade of Hierapolis in the valley of the Moeander. Dr. Chandler, whose description of the petrified cascade is thus referred to, visited Pambouk Scalesi, as the site of Hierapolis is called by the Turks, in 1760. " Chandler," says Malte Brun, " confirms the accounts of Strabo concerning the hot springs of Hierapolis, or Pambouk ; he found a mass of rock formed by the tufa or soft sandstone, which, as these waters deposit it, re- sembles an immense cascade which has been suddenly frozen or converted into stone. Near the same place is the celebrated cave where pernicious exhalations were remarked by the ancients," This was the famous " Plutonium," described by Dr. Chandler as " an open- ing in a small brow of the adjacent mountain, capable of admitting a man, and very deep, with a square fence be- fore it, enclosing about half an acre." The following is the description given by him of the petrified cascade : "The view before us was so marvellous, that the description of it, to bear even a famt resemblance, ought to appear romantic. The vast slope, which at a distance we had taken for chalk, was now beheld with wonder, it seeming an imniense frozen cascade, the surface wavy, as if at once fixed, or on its headlong course suddenly petrified. Round about us were many high, bare, stony ridges ; and close by our tents one with a wide basis, and a slender rill of water, clear, soft, and warm, running in a small channel on the top. A woman was washing linen in it, with a child at her back ; and beyond were cabins of the Turcomans, standing distinct, much neater than any we had seen, each with poultry feeding, and a fence of reeds in front. " It is an old observation that the country about the Moeander, the soil being light and friable, and full of salts generating inflammable matter, was undermined by fire and water. Hence it abounded in hot springs, which, after passing under ground from the reservoirs, mimmmm''^fgm 210 AMKIIK'AN IlUnUK ANK. npponnMl on the mountain, or wore fonnl{ii!i, or in llio nind oriln> river. "The hot, waters of llierfi|»olis liavo inodneed thnt most extrnordinnry |>henoni(>non, ^- riods, sut^'erod severely from the inlluence of vi. u^, !. storms of wind, some of which liave heen known to i v vorso nearly the whole extent of the United States, ana to leave such deej) impressii>ns in their wake as is not easily to he forgotten. Having witnessed one of these awful phenomena in all its grande\ir, I shall attempt to dcvscrihe for your Siike, kind reader, and for your siikc only, the recollection of that astonishing revolution of the etheival element. \ AMKUIIAN IH'HKKANK. 219 T l).i Humc Ifrnutifiil Htrcum. 'I'lic wntcr WMH |il(wisaiit, Mn«l, I tlioni^lit, not warmer tlmri iiHuiil at that Hcason. My horH«« was jogging fjuirtly alon^, and my thonglits were, for once at leant in tho ronrnr of tny iifr, entirely efiga^M-d in ('omm(;reial Rpecu- latioHH. I had lonhMl lll^^hhmd Creek, aricl was on the eve of entering u tract of hottom land or v/illey that lay 111 tw "en it ancl Catioo C'reek, when on a Hudden I re- marlved a ^;reat dillerence in the aHpect «)f tho heavens. A hazy tliiekness Iwul overspread the eonntry, and 1 for pome tinje e.xp water, when, from my |)roximity to tho earth, I hennl a south-west, wliere 1 ol -served a yv\- lowish oval spot, the appearance of which was «|uite new to nu\ Little time was left me for consideration, as tho next moment a smart hreeze hegan to agitat(; tho taller trees. It increased to an unexpected height, and already the smaller hranches and twigs were seen falling in u, ^lanting direction towards tho ground. Two minutes ha«l scarcely ela|)sed, when the whole forest heforc mo was in fearful motion. Here and there were one treo pressed against another, a creaking noise heing pnxluced similar to that occasioned by the violent gusts which sometimes sweep over the country. Turning ins'Jnc- tividy tow'ard the direction from which tho wind blow, 1 saw, to my great astonishment, that tho no])leHt trees of the A)rcst l)C!it their lofty heads for a while, and, unable to Htnnd against tho blast, were falling into pieces. First the branches were broken off with n crackling noise, then isHn 220 AMERICAN HURRICANE. 1: went the upper parts of the massy trunks, and in many places, whole trees of gigantic size were falling entire to the ground. So rapid was the progress of the storm, that, before I could think of taking measures to insure my safety, the hurricane was passing opposite the place where I stood. Never can I forget the scene which at that moment presented itself. The tops of the trees were seen moving in the strangest manner, in the central current of the tempest, which carried along with it a mingled mass of twigs and foliage that completely ob- scured the view. Some of the largest trees were seen bending and writhing under the gale ; others suddenly snapped across ; and many, after a momentary resistance, fell uprooted to the earth. The mass of branches, twigs, foliage, and dust that moved through the air, was whirl- ed onward like a cloud of feathers, and on passing, dis- rlosf^d a wide space filled with broken trees, naked > ips, and heaps of shapeless ruins, which marked the paUi of the tempest. This space was about one-fourth of a mile in breadth, and to my imagination resembled the dried up bed of the Mississippi, with its thousands of planters and sawyers, strewed in the sand, and inclined in various degrees. The horrible noise resembled tluvt of the great cataracts of Niagara, and as it howled along in the track of the desolating tempest, produced a feeling in my mind which it were impossible to describe. The principal force of the hurricane was now over, although millions of twigs and small branches that had been brought from a great distance were seen following the blast, as if drawn onwards by some mysterious p^wer. They even floated in the air for some hours after, as if supported by the thick mass of dust that rose 80 high above the ground. The sky had now a greenish lurid hue, and an extremely disagreeable sulphurous odour was diffused in the atmosphere. I waited in amazement, having sustained no material injury, until nature at length resumed her wonted aspect. For some moments I felt undetermined whether I should return AMERICAN HURRICANE. 221 to Morgan town, or attempt to force my way through the wrecks of the tempest. My business, however, being of an urgent nature, I ventured into the path of the storm, and, after encountering innumerable difficulties, succeeded in crossing it. I was obliged to lead my horse by the bridle, to enable him to leap over the fallen trees, whilst I scrambled over or under them in the best way I could, at times so hemmed in by the broken tops and tangled branches as almost to become desperate. On arriv- ing at my house I gave an account of what I had seen, when to my surprise, I was told there had been very little wind in the neighbourhood, although in the streets and gardens many branches and twigs had fallen in a manner which excited great surprise. Many wondrous accounts of the devastating effects of this hurricane were circulated in the country after its occuiTcnce. Some log-houses, we were told, had been overturned, and their inmates destroyed. One person informed me that a wire sifter had been conveyed by the gust to a distance of many miles ; another hiid found a cow lodged in the fork of a large half-broken tree. But as I am disposed to relate only what I have myself seen, I shall not lead you into the region of romance, but shall content myself with saying, that much damage was done by this awful visitation. The valley is yet a deso- late place, overgrown with briars and bushes thickly en- tangled amidst the tops and trunks of fallen trees, and is the resort of ravenous animals, to which they betake themselves when pursued by man, o\' after they have committed their depredations on the farms of the sur- rounding districts. I have crossed the path of the storm at a distance of 100 miles from the spot where I witness- ed its fury, and, again, 400 miles farther oflF in the state of Ohio. Lastly, I observed traces of its ravages on the summits of the mountains connected with the great pine forest of Pennsylvania, 300 miles beyond the place last mentioned. In all these different parts it » '<1.' 222 DESCRIPTION OF A TROPICAL STORM. aj)peared to me not to have exceeded a quarter of a mile ill breadth. Jameson a £dinb. New Philos. Jou nal. DESCRIPTION OF A TROPICAL STORM. The day broke with an unwonted gloom, overshadowing every thing : a dense black haze rested like a high wall round the horizon ; while the upper sky, so long with- out a single speck, was stained all over with patches of shapeless clouds flying in different directions. The sun rose attended by vapours and clouds, which concealed him from our sight. The sea-wind, which used to begin gently, and gradually increase to a pleasant breeze, came on suddenly, and vvitli great violence ; so that the waves curled and broke into a white sheet of foam, extending as far as the eye could reach. The whole sea looked bleak and stormy under the portentous influence of an immense mass of dark clouds, rising slowly in the west- ern quarter, till they reached nearly to the zenith, where they continued like a mantle during the whole day. The ships which heretofore had lain motionless on the smooth surface of the bay, were now rolling and pitching, with their cables stretched out to seaward ; while the boats that used to skim along from the shore to the ves- sels at anchor, were seen splashing through the waves under a reefed sail, or struggling hard with their oars to avoid being driven into the surf, which was breaking and roaring furiously along the coast. The flags that were wont to be idly asleep for weeks together, by the sides of the masts on the batteries, now stood stiftly out in the storm. Innumerable sea-birds continued during all the day, wheeling and screaming round the rock on which the town stood, as if in terror at this sudden change. The dust of six months' hot weather, raised into high EARTHQUAKE AT ZANTE. 223 pyramids, was forced by furious gusts of wind into the innermost corners of the houses. Long before sun-set, it seemed as if the day had closed, owing to the darkness caused by the dust in the air, and to the sky being over- cast in every part by unbroken masses of watery clouds. Presently lightning was observed amongst the hills, followed shortly afterwards by a storm exceeding in vio- lence anything I ever met with in other parts of the world. During eight hours, deluges of rain never ceased pouring down for a moment : the steep streets of the town soon became the channels of streams of such mag- nitude, as to sweep away large stones ; rendering it everywhere dangerous, and in some parts impossible to pass. The rain found its way through the roofs, and drenched every part of the houses ; the deep rumbling noise of the torrents in the streets was never interrupt- ed ; the deafening loudness of the thunder became ex- ceedingly distracting ; while flashes of forked lightning, playing in the most brilliant manner, without ceap'ng, from the zenith to the horizon on all sides, and clingmg as it were to the rock, were at once beautiful and terrific. Capt. Basil Hall. EARTHQUAKE AT ZANTE, IN 1820. When the servant led me to my room, he left a large brass lamp lighted, on a ponderous carved table on the opposite side to that on whicii I slept. My bed, as is usual in this island, was without a canopy, and open above. As soon as I got into it, I lay for some time gaz- ing on the ceiling, with many pleasing ideas of persons and things floating on my mind; even the „rotesque figures were a source of amusement to me : and I remem- ber falling into a delightful sleep while I was yet mak- ing out fancied resemblances to many persons 1 was ac- quainted with. The next sensation I recollect was one indescribably Mf. ; Hi ■ 4' 224 EARTHQUAKE AT ZANTE. si 1 tremendous. The lamp was still burning, but the whole room was in motion. The figures on the ceiling seemed to be animated, and were changing places ; presently they were detached from above, and with large frag- ments of the cornice, fell upon me and about the room. An indefinable melancholy humming sound seemed to issue from the earth, and run along the outside of the house, with a sense of vibration that communicated an intolerable nervous feeling ; and I experienced a fluctu- ating motion, which threw me from side to side, as if I were still on board the frigate, and overtaken by a storm. The house now seemed rent asunder with a violent crash. A large portion of the wall fell in, split into splinters the oak table, extinguished the lamp, and left me in total darkness ; while, at the same instant, the thick walls opened about me, and the blue sky, with a bright star, became for a moment visible through one of the chasms. I now threw off my bed-clothes, and attempt- ed to escape from the tottering house ; but the ruins of the wall and ceiling had so choked up the passage that I could not open the door ; and I again ran back to my bed, and instinctively pulled over my face the thick coverlid, to protect it from the falling fragments. Up to this period I had not the most distant concep- tion of the cause of this commotion. The whole had passed in a few seconds, yet such was the effect of each circumstance, that they left on my mind as distinct an impression as if the succession of my ideas had been slow and regular. Still I could assign no reason for it, but that the house was going to fall, till an incident occurred which caused the truth to flash at once on my mind. There stood in the square opposite the Palazzo, a tall sl^'-nder steeple of a Greek church, containing a ring of bells, which I had remarked in the day ; these now be- gan to jangle with a wild unearthly sound, as if some powerful hand had seized the edifice below, and was ringing the bells by shaking the steeple. Then it was that I had the first distinct conception of my situation EARTHQUAKE AT ZANTE. —I found that the earthquake we had talked so lightly of was actually come. I felt that I was in the midst of one of those awful visitations which destroy thousands in a moment — where the superintending hand of God seems for a season to withdraw itself, and the frame of the earth is suffered to tumble into ruins hy its own con- vulsions. I cannot describe my sensations when I thus saw and felt around me the wreck of nature, and that with a deep and firm conviction on my mind, that to me that moment was the end of the world. 1 had before looked death in the face in many ways, and had reason more than once to familiarize me to his appearance; but this was nothing like the ordinary thoughts or apprehensions of dying in the common way ; the sensations were as different as an earthquake and a fever. But this horrible convulsion ceased in a moment, as suddenly as it began, and a dead and solemn silence en- sued. This was soon broken by the sound of lamenta- tions, which came from below ; and I afterwards found it to proceed from the inhabitants of an adjoining house, which had been shaken down, and crushed to death some, and half-buried others who were trying to escape, in the ruins. Presently I saw a light through the cre- vice of the door of my chamber, and heard the sound of voices outside. It proceeded from the servants, who came to look for me among the ruins. As they could not enter by the usual door- way, which was choked up, they proceeded round to another ; but when they saw the room filled with the wrecks of the wall and the ceil- ing, some of which were lying on the bed, one of them said, " Sacramento ! eccolo schiaccato !" — there he is, crushed to death; and proceeded to remove the rub- bish, and lift the bed clothes. I was lying unhurt, buried in thought; but the dust caused me to sneeze, and relieved the apprehensions of the good people. I immediately rose and dressed myself, and proceeded with them about the Palazzo, to see the damage it had 226 EARTHQUAKE AT ZANTE. i' I f l\ ! i1 :'l f sustained. The mnssive outside walls were all separated from each other, and iVoni the ])artiti()n walls, and left chasms hetween, through which the light appeared. Providentially, the room in which 1 slept had the hcd against a partition wall, and nothing fell on me but pieces of the ceiling and cornice; had it been on the other side, next the main wall, I could not i dan, when they eat meat only by night, aud therefore in the morning would have been all fast asleep." — Aveonnt of the Religion and Manners of th» Mahometans, p. 7> London, 178ti / I / VISIT TO THE SERAGHO. 231 the morning, embarking at Tophano, and steering to- wards the gate of the Seraglio which faces the Bosphorus on the south-eastern side, where the entrance to tho Seraglio-gardens and the gardener's lodge are situate, A Bostanghy, as a sort of porter, is usually seated with his attendants, within the portal. Upon entering the Seraglio the spectator is struck by a wild and confused assemblage of great and interesting objects ; among tho first of these are enormous cypresses, massive and lofty masonry, neglected and broken soroi, high rising mounds, and a long gloomy avenue leading from the gates of the garden between tlie double walls of the Seraglio. The gate is the same by which the Sultanas came out for air- ing before alluded to ; and the gardener's lodge is on the right hand of it. The avenue extending from it, to- wards the west, offers a broad and beautiful, although solitary walk, to a very considerable extent, shut in by high walls on both sidts. Directly opposite to this en- trance of the seraglio, is a very lofty mound or bank, covered with large trees, and traversed by terraces, over which, on the top, are walls with turrets. On the right hand, arc tlie large wooden folding doors of the Grand Signior's gardens ; and near them lie many fragments of ancient marbles, appropriated to the vilest purposes ; among others, a soros of one mass of marble covered with a simple although unmeaning bas-relief. Entering the gardens, by the folding doors, a pleasing coup d'ceil of trellis- work and covered walks is displayed, iiore after the taste of the natives of Holland, than of those of any other country. Various and very despicable jets d'eau, straight gravel walks, and borders disposed in parallelo- grams, with the addition of a long greenhouse filled with orange-tree J, compose all that appears within the small spot which bears the name of the Seraglio gardens. The view, on entering, is down the principal gravel- waik ; and all the walks meet at a central point, be- neath a dome of the same trellis- work by which they are covered,. Small fountains spout a few quarts of water fl 232 VISIT TO THE SERAGLIO. I ^ i,i into large shells, or form parachutes over bummg bougies, hy the sides of the walks. The trellis- work is of wood, painted white, and covered by jasmine ; and this, as it does not conceal the artificial frame by which it is sup- ported, produces a wretched effect. On the outside of the trellis-work appear small parterres, edged with box containing very common flowers, and adorned with fountains. On the right hand, after entering the garden, appears the magnificent kiosk, which constitutes the Sultan's summer residence ; and fart?ier on is the orangery before mentioned, occupying the whole extent of the wall on that side. Exactly opposite to the garden gates is the door of the charem, or palace of the women be- longing to the Grand Signior ; a building not unlike one of the small colleges in Cambridge, and inclosing the same sort of cloistered court. One side of this building extends across the upper extremity of the garden, so that the windows look into it. Below these windows are two small green-houses, filled with very common plants, and a mimber of canary-birds. Before the charem windows, on the right hand, is a ponderous, gloomy, wooden door ; and this, creaking on its massive hinges, opens to the quadrangle, or interior of th j court of the charem itself. Still facing the charem on the left hand, is a paved ascent, leading through a handsome gilded iron gate, from the lower to the upper garden. Here is the kiosk, which will presently be described. Returning from the charem to the door by which we first entered, a lofty wall on the right hand supports a terrace with a few small parterres : these, at a consider- able height above the lower garden, constitute what is now called the upper garden of the Seraglio ; and, till within these few years, it was the only one. Having thus completed the tour of this small insigni- ficant spot of ground, let us now enter the kiosk, which was first mentioned as the Sultan's summer residence. It is situate on the sea shore, and commands one of the finest views the eye ever beheld, of Scutary and of the I VISIT TO THE SERAGLIO. 233 9 Lve irt eft lie n. d. -ve a r- II- ;h e. le le adjoining Asiatic coast, the mouth of the canal, and a moving picture of ships and gondolas, with all the float- ing pageantry of this vast metropolis, such as no other capital in the world can pretend to exhibit. The kiosk itself, fashioned after the airy fantastic style of eastern architecture, presents a spacious chamber, covered by a dome ; from which, towards the sea, advances a raised platform surrounded by windows, and terminated by a divan.* On the right and left are the private apart- ments of the Sultan and his ladies. From the centre of the dome is suspended a large lustre, presented by the English ambassador. Above the raised platform hangs another lustre of smaller size, but more elegant, imme- diately over the sofas of the divan are mirrors engraved with Turkish inscriptions, poetry, and passages from the koran. The sofas are of white satin, beautifully er\- broidered by the Seraglio women. Leaving the platform, on the left hand is the Sultan's private chamber for repose, the floor of which is sur- mounted by couches of very costly workmanship. Op- posite this chamber, on the other side of the kiosk, a door opens to the apartment in which are placed the at- tendant Sultanas, the Sultan Mother, or any ladies in re- sidence with the sovereign. This room corresponds ex- actly with tb'^ the Sultan's chamber, except that the couches are nture magnificently embroidered. A small staircase leads from these apartments to two chambers below, paved with marble,^ and as cold as any cellar. Here a more numerous assemblage of women are buried, as it were, during the heart of summer. The firat is a sort of ante-chamber to the other, by the door of which, in a nook of the wall, are placed the sultan's slippers, of common yellow mon^cco, and course work- manship. Having entered the ir ole chamber imme- « The Divan is a sort of couc' , or sofa, common over all the Levant, sur- rounding every side of a room, except that which contain« the entrance. It is laised about sixteen inches from the floor. When a Divan is held, it means nothing more, than that the persons composing it are thus seated. ru W 'W «.< 1 \\\' «»1M) \l I «!♦. olyN-srt^ t^ttU'ri!. \\hi>i»' \\\o li^lli-i -iH tlinln.) lite Mi-iitinn i«r *\^\\\\\\\ > \'r\\ lM»>i)' lllr\ l»!»i| rinilfjnlv It'll mtt»nH«« ^^^^:V^ WsA \\\\\i\\ \\\<\\ \r[ \'\\"\'A ll»i'i» ♦UimIp o| IMcJ A\^^"-o w •>■» !\M I'Unliih ^^^ilin^> l«(»v. i»r Mm-lc ^NOV<\nu«'i\ ^^ >\. !>nil \\\\\i' \y\y)<* \\\^\\\' t»l mnl't oitlcti'il *,'^t\<\. ^u \\\>^.'h \\\\\y h\\\v\'^ A\^\y\ tu;' ■>\<\\\ , Im nnivn !^>>^ ><>U f\^^ Is^ulrt. n(«>flv mi >nMtlit«." > >» »\ .M\ .•>-» tU^ptu.■^ Oi O^U > iiif <'^ ll^O ^>l;hM«. Hhil t|l«»'( >x:H tho rxtnnin)»Ht>n ol \n«\» vt^Kuvu nxj^-^ !M<«m\\I««I \y\\\\ A\u\ tW»VtV><. XX\>\>)xll, Vo\xNn\\ :\\\ «l»>ul>t. l\;x^ >> A* \t txvtx^^ U'^uvsi rt (^^lo^x'^i^o to oxjouino tho S<^v.\v^tx> ji'.'^\\'>»M\* <\\>m \\\\'' \\\\\\\\^\\ ol hi!< l\x>U8»» In (lu» o\lv. Uax^wc \x">!^svyox\ x^>vw ,'^Ux\v rtUx^ oxxmor oflho nm-xlon, xHv .^,^> ,^\>xNS^ h,'^\< bwN^iMvW*. x>\\ wy U^\\ tx< ll\x* m-x'ot x\\\s^x''^x x^v\ tN<' Uxt^ \^.^ts\5;v \x\^xl\u»; (x> tho iwux^v ooxirt of t)\^* n\y>st«ntx"»«s t^.utxxv. Wo «\\c\n^sIxm< u\ <\Mvinii thi* '^vvv . Vv.l At^ WvMS" of iu f \X\\\^ hiwcx s ;u\v\v!st (ho ^>i\)- vtnvr tit nil- fff< ^n^ tft. 9f\t, . »»' If (i« of foHud illf'liC" I'f (lie |iIm'w« whf lo Hifif, ♦ t( <^t)«>»'ti''i (nllii.c^ f fiitilif i'l|"\ Cfllc'l wild vVfr-<|»i. ( t ^^ tt'i til \ |i|(r ; ♦ lie )tl lll«)|tfil 'i|(|n »i|' f(i(- rnnif '•Mfihtifijfijr rtfi ii^vii ' |oi lfil(< llfi'lillc of l'>fifr'"'< ; filial flic i]<- I'Olfdlnll (t| (llf'IM Mji'llf lfl"Mf 'I hi <'V('U (fr f"'T»'ri f| wmikII \v1ii(|(my ii'fii IIm« |»r(»iiii'l, fiti Mlli V«" di' Whtfi\t-ti |i«mI<» or rdiiclirfi, «(ivci»<<| willi irifilM, |lr^|lflr^f| fV»r IIk< re ■ iM'I'Hmi nC fi Itiiiidicd hI/iv»'m, \vlii

    • iiMiiow |iM«i'ifn'fM, llif llo/ir oT wlii'li Wf»ro hImo iiniMid, wr i-miik' h» m '(ffiirr/iMo d/i/liri(( I'l lli** iipprr n|Miihii(>ii('t. or MiM'li }ir*«>|Mil/ir mii'I <'Ofif'ii'U"| firrhil^r*- fiiff, II Im (liirniill In i»iv*» fiiiy |i'r«i|iiiil Ikm?! ||i«> Iowm- il, lliiM w/iM 'livi'lc'l info Iwo fiorM; wt Ihnf, niip luiir oC llic miMiM'fiiM ntl'ii'l/inl') il, wmm fl<"Uj,iffr<'fl to ihmmiiiiiikmImIc, 'i|(|if ovfi" llic oIImt iijioii m "^irf of 'Wiflf or ln'Mllnlil iHiir |o Ili« rcilinir. |*>oiri llio flrrfdif! rf»rri'lor uc I'lilcicfl II lliiid, mI<»ii^ m. riifilh'l ji/^Mfi^/', ii I ij^lif, n writH (»r r'torriM l<»ol Ht'M. My (MniliiHiiiii^ nloiij.^ Miim Hclcrlrtl, !<» nHord n striking idi-n of tho pomp, llu» HtMliisioii, find IIm> iiDWfuWircmo (A t\\f' ()tt(t- liKiii eniili. 'riii» HJ/i^c i>^ Im'sI, suited for its rf{»rf'H<;ntft- 236 VISIT TO THE SERAGLIO. t! ' f ' tion ; and therefore, the reader is requested to have the stage in his imaginution while it is described. It was surrounded with enoiinous mirrors, the costly donations of infidel kings, as they are styled by the present posses- sors. These mirrors the women of the Seraglio some- times break in their frolics. At the upper end is the throne, a sort of cage, in which the Sultana sits, sur- rounded by latticed blinds, for even here her person is held too sacred to be exposed to the common observation of slaves and females of the charem. A lofty flight of broad steps covered with crimson cloth, leads to this cage as to a throne. Immediately in front of the cage are two burnished chairs of state, covered with crimson vel'^et and gold, one on each side of the entrance. To the right and left of the throne, and upon a level with it, are the sleeping apartments of the Sultan Mother, and her principal fe- males in waiting. The external windows of the throne are all latticed. On one side they look towards the sea, and on the other into the quadrangle of the charem ; the chamber itself occupying the whole breadth of the building, on the side of the quadrangle into which it looks. The area below the latticed throne, or the front of the stage, (according to the idea before proposed,) is set apart for attendants, for the dancers, for actors, music, and whatsoever is brought into the charem for the amusement of the court. This place is covered with Persian mats ; but these are removed when the Sultana is here, and the richest carpets are then substituted in their place. Beyond the great chamber of audience is the assem- bly-room of the Sultan when he is in the charem. Here we observed the magnificent lustre before mentioned. The Sultan sometimes visits this chamber during the winter, to hear music, and to amuse himself with his favourites. It is surrounded by mirrors. The other ornaments display that strange mixture of magnificence and wretchedness, which charactcriije all the state-cham- VISIT TO THE SERAGLIO. 23: re le IS [r le bers of Turkish grandees. Leaving the assembly-room by the door through which we entered, and continuing along the passage, as before, which runs parallel to the sea-shore, we at length reached what might be termed the sanctum sanctorum of this Paphian temple, the baths of the Sultan Mother and the four principal Sultanas. These are small, but very elegant ; constructed of white marble, and lighted by ground glass above. At the upper end is a raised sudatory and bath for the Sultan Mother, concealed by lattice-work from the rest of the apartment. Fountains play constantly into the floor of this bath from all its sides ; and every degree of refined luxury has been added to the work, which a people of all others best versed in the ceremonies of the bath have been capable of inventing or requiring. Leaving the bath, and returning along the passage by which we came, we entered what is called the chamber of repose, commanding the most extensive view any- where afforded from this point of the Seraglio. It forms a part of the building well known to strangers, from the circumstance of its being supported, towards the sea, by twelve columns of that beautiful and rare brescia, the verde antico, which is extolled by Pliny, Here the other ladies of the harem entertain themselves, by hear- ing and seeing comedies, farcical representations, dances, and music. We found it to be in the state of an old lumber-room. Large dusty pier-glasses, in heavy gilded frames, neglected and broken, had been left leaning against the wall, the whole length of one side of the room ; old furniture ; shabby bureaus of the worst English work, made of oak, walnut, or mahogany ; inlaid cabinets ; scattered fragments of chandeliers ; scraps of paper, silk rags, and empty confectionary boxes, were the only objects in this part of the palace. From this room we descended into the court of the harem ; and having crossed it, ascended, by a flight of steps, to an upper range, for the purpose of examining a part of the building appropriated to the inferior ladies 238 TISIT TO THE SERAGLIO. of the Seraglio. Finding it exactly upon the plan of the rest, only worse furnished, and in a more wretched state, we returned to quit the harem entirely, and to effect our retreat into the garden. The reade.' may imagine our consternation, upon finding that the great door was ihut, and that we were locked in. Listening to ascer- tain if any one were stirring, we discovered that a slave had entered to feed some turkeys, who were gobbling and making a great noise at a small distance. "We pro- fited by their tumult to force back the huge lock of the gate with a large stone ; and this fortunately yielding to our blows, we made our escape. We now quitted the lower garden of the Seraglio, and ascended, by a paved way, towards the chamber of the garden of hyacinths. Tliis promised to be curious, as we were told the Sultan passed almost all his private hours in that apartment ; and the view of it might make us acquainted with occupations and amusements which characterize the man, divested of the outward parade of the Sultan. We presently turned from the paved ascent, towards the right, and entered a small garden, laid out in very neat oblong borders, edged with porcelain or Dutch tiles. Here no plant is suffered to grow, except the hyacinth ; whence the name of 'Ms garden. We examined the Sultan's apartment, by looking through a window. Nothing can be more magnificent. Three sides of it were surrounded by a divan, the cushions and pillows of which were of black embroidered satin. Oppo- site to the windows of the chamber was a fire-place, constructed after the European fashion; and on each side of this, a door, covered with hangings of crimson cloth. Between each of these doors and the fire-place appeared a glass-case, containing the Sultan's private library : every volume was in manuscript ; they were placed upon shelves, one book lying upon another, and the title of each was written upon the edge of its leaves. From the ceiling of the room, which was of burnished gold, opposite to each of the doors, and also opposite to VISIT TO THE SERAGLIO. 259 to or ept a iree nd 0- ce, ch on ,ce te 18, to the fire-place, were suspended three gilt cages, contain- ing small figures of artificial birds, which sung by me- chanism. In the centre of the room stood an enoiinous gilt brasier, supported, in an ewer, by four massive claws, like the vessels for containing water which are seen under sideboards in England. Opposite to the entrance on one side of the apartment, was a raised bench, crossing a door, and upon this were placed an embroidered napkin, a vase, and basin, for washing the beard and hands. Over the bench, upon the wall, was suspended a large embroidered porte-feuille, worked with silver thread in yellow leather, which is carried in pro- cession when the Sultan goes to mosque or elsewhere in public, to contain the petitions presented by his subjects. Within a small nook close to the door was also a pair of yellow boots ; and upon the bench, by the ewer, a pair of slippers of the same materials. These are placed at the entrance of every apartment frequented by the Sultan. The floor was covered with Gobelins tapestry ; and the ceiling, as before stated, was magnificently gilded and burnished. Groups of arms, such as pistols, sabres, and poniards were disposed, with very singular taste and eiFect, over the different compai-tments of the walls ; their handles and scabbards being covered with diamonds of very large size, which, as they glittered around, pro- duced a splendid effect in this most sumptuous chamber. We had scarcely ended our survey, when to our great dismay, a Bostanghy made his appearance within the apartment : fortunately for us, his head was turned from the window ; and we immediately sunk below it, creep- ing upon our hands and knees, until we got clear of the garden of hyacinths. Thence, ascending to the upper walls, we passed an aviary of nightingales. The walks in the upper garden are very small, in wretched condition, and laid out in worse taste than the fore-court of a Dutchman's house in the suburbs of the Hague. Small as they are, they constituted, till lately, the whole of the Seraglio gardens near the sea; and t J ■i f 1 1 w h ■ ■| 240 VISIT TO A TURK.SII MOSQUK. from thorn mny he soon tlio wliolc prospect of tlic en- tranoc to tlie canal, nml the oj)po.sitc coast of Sciitary. Here is an old kiosk, supported upon iron cramps, which, nevertheless, was a present from Charles the Twelfth of Sweden, It is precisely the sort of sideboard seen in the poorest iims of England ; and while it may he said that no person would i)ay half the amount, of its freight to send it hack again, it shews the nature of the presents that were then made to the Porte hy foreign princes. 1^'rom these formal terraces we descended to the garden- er's lodge, and left the gardens by the gate through which we entered. Clarke's Travels. VISIT TO A TURKISH MOSQUE. I at once understood that my attempt must be made in a Turkish dress ; but this fact was of trifling importance, as no costume in the world lends itself more readily or more conveniently to the purposes of disguise. After having deliberately weighed the chances for and against detection, I resolved to run the risk ; and accordingly I stained my eyebrows with some of the dye common in the harem ; concealed my female attire beneath a mag- nificent pelisse, lined with sables, which fastened from my chin to my feet ; pulled a fez low upon my brow ; and, preceded by a servant with a lantern, attended the Bey. and followed by the Kiara and a pipe-bearer, at half past ten o'clock I sallied forth on my adventurous errand. "If we escape from St. Sophia unsuspected," said my chivalrous friend, " we will then make another bold attempt, — we will visit the mosque of Sultan Achmet ; and, as this is a high festival, if you risk the adventure, you will have done what no infidel has ever yet dared to do ; but I forewarn you that, should you be discover- -fi VISIT TO A TUIIKISII MOSQUE. 241 r- cd, ami fail to make your escape on the instant, you will bo torn to pieces." At ItMifi^th we entered tlu^ Hpacious court of* the Mosque, and as the servant stooped to withdraw my shoes, tho Dey murmured in my ear, "ho firm or you are lost" — nnd making a strong effort to suhdue the feeling of mingled awe and fear which was rapidly stealing over me, I pulled iUiiJez deeper upon my eye-hrows, and oheyed. On passing the thrcslu>ld, I found myself in a covered peristyle, whose gigantic columns of granite are partial- ly sunk in the wall of which they form a part ; tho floor was covered with fine matting, and the coloured lamps, which were suspended in festoons from the lofty ceiling, shed abroad light on all tho surrounding objects. In most of the recesses formed hy the pillars, beggars were crouched down holding in front of them their lit- tle basins, to receive the /;a;Yi5 of the charitable; while servants lounging to and fro, or squatted in groups upon the matting, awaited the egress of their employers. Aa I looked around mo, our own attendant moved forward, and raising the curtain which veiled a double door of bronze, situated at mid-length of the peristyle, I invol- untarily shrunk back before tho blaze of light that burst upon me. Far as the eye could reach upwards, circles of colour- ed fire, appearing as if suspended in mid-air, designed the form of the suspended dome ; while beneath, devices of every shape and colour were formed by myriads of lamps of various hues. The imperial closet, situated op- posite to the pulpit, was one blaze of refulgence, and its gilded lattices flashed back the brilliancy, till it looked like a gigantic meteor ! As 1 stood a few paces within the door- way, I could not distinguish the limits of the edifice — I looked forward, upward — to the right hand, and to the left — but I could only take in a given space, covered with human beings, kneeling in regular lines, and at a certain signal bowing their turbaned hcdds to the earthy as if one soul and ono It t i t ■ -I i ■; '^ ii I! 242 VISIT TO A TURKISH MOSQUE. 1 "'i 'li r it impulse animated the whole congregation ; while the shrill chanting of the choir pealed through the vast pile, and died away in lengthened cadences among the tall dark pillars which support it. And this was St. Sophia ! To me it seemed like a creation of enchantment — the light — the ringing voices — the mysterious extent, wliich haffled the earnestness of my gaze — the ten thousand turbaned Moslems, all kneeling with their faces turned towards Mecca, and at intervals laying their foreheads to the earth — the bright and various colours of their dresses, and the rich glowing tints of the carpets that veiled the mar1)le floor — all con- spired to form a scene of such unearthly magnificence, that I felt as though there could be no reality in what I looked on ; but that, at some sudden signal, the tower- ing columns would fail to support the vault of light above them, and all would become void. I had forgotten every thing in the mere exercise of vision — the danger of detection — the flight of time — al- most my own identity- -when my companion uttered the single word "gel — come" — and, passing forward to an- other door on the opposite side of the building;, I iiiotliic- tively followed him, and once more found myself in the court. In ten minutes more we stood before the mosque of Sultan Aclimet, and, ascending the noble flight of steps which lead to the principal entrance, we again cast off our shoes, and entered the temple. Infinitely less vast than St. Sophia, the mosque im- pressed me with a feeling of awe, much niM'e than I had experienced in visiting its more stately neighbour. Four colossal pillars of marble, five or six feet in circumference, support the dome, and these were wreathed with lamps, even to the summit ; while the number of lights suspended from the ceiling gave the whole edifice the appearance of a space overhung with stars. We entered at a propitious moment, for thfj faithful were performing their prostra- tions, and had consequently no time to speculate on our r I MAHCH OF A CARAVAN. 243 v; ); appearance ; the chanting was wilder and shriller than I had just heard at St. Sophia ; it sounded more like the delirious outcry which we may suppose to have been uttered by a band of Delphic priestjsses, than the voices of a choir of uninspired human beings. We passed onward over the yielding carpets, whicli returned no sound beneath our footsteps : and there wus something strangely supernatural in the spectacle, of several human beings moving along, without creating a single eclio in the vast space they traversed. We paused an instant beside the marble-arched platform, on whicli the muezzin was performing his prostrations to the shrill cry of the choir ; — we lingered another, to take a last look at the kneeling thousands who were absorbed in their devotions ; and then, rapidly descending into the court, my companion uttered a hasty congratulation on the successful issue of our bold adventure, to v, liich I responded a most heartfelt "Amen," — and in less than an hour I cast off my /ez and my pelisse in the harem of Effendi, and exclaimed to its astonished inmates, *' I have seen the mosques !" Aliss Pardee's City of the Sultan. of MARCH OF A CARAVAN. mr Ice, )fa )US ra- kur When Mohammed Ali Pasha, viceroy of Kgypt, stt out on liis expedition against the Wahabees, he left his wives and attendants behind him at Cairo, thinking that he would soon return again ; but having been detained for a longer period than he had anticipated, he sent off expresses by his fleetest dromedaries, ordering them to join him; and a large caravan being about to be form- ed to accompany and convey them on their route, Mr. Buckingham, who was then at Cairo, resolved to take the opportunity to cross the desert of Suez under its pro- tection, arid having made the necessary preparations, he 244 MARCH OF A CARATAN. joined it on the bauks of the Bukot ol ITadji, or the Lake of the Pilgrims, a few miles from Cairo. " At noon," says he, *' the first signal-gun for loading was fired, when all was bustle and confusion ; and the breaking up of the tents, harnessing the animals to the clumsy carriages constructed for the Pasha's wives and principal slaves, loading the camels, which had all been watered at the lake in the morning, arranging the stations of the Turk- ish cavalry as guards, &c., occupied all parties until near four o'clock ill the afternoon. " At length, on tlie firing of a second gun, the whole caravan was prt in motion, and commenced its march in the following order : — An advanced guard of horsemen (at the head of whom was the Emir el Hadji, or Prince of the Pilgrims, a title given to the chief conductor of the caravan) kept their station two or three miles a-head, so as to be almost within sight, except when hidden from the view by a hollo'N.' in tlie sands, of wliich there are many, resembling the space left between two suc- ceeding billows in a tempest. In the front of the cara- van, and immediately preceding it was a six-pound iron cannon, very loosely fitted as a field-piece on a heavy car, and drawn by four horses. On each side of this were parties of about twenty horsemen in each, whose provirtce it appeared to be to keep an equal line, by rid- ing up and down the bi'cadth of the front, and checking *hosc wiio were too ir advanced, as well as bringing up by a quicker pace those who appeared to tarry behind. Following in succession came separate trains of camels, some of Wiileh. contained moi-o than fifiy animals in a line. In the centre a large space wU'i left for the hurem of the Pa^ha, the principal p rsonagesof which were con- veyed each in ;i Kej>arate veliicle, resemlding an Indian pai-.nquin, closed on all sides round with hollow lattice- Avork, very gaudily painU'd and (gilded, and borne be- tween two camels. "All the attendant femahs, oomjinnions, servants, or slaves, were borne on eamelb in a kind of tented pan- MARCH OF A CARAVAX. 245 :re be- inta, nier, one of them suspended on each side of the animal, so that the pair of tents contained two pereons who faced each other, and wore sheltered from the sun by canvass, which at once covered them, and curtained them from the prying eyes of curious passengers. In front of the central group were a pedestrian band of musicians, who walked betv»een tlie two principal palanquins as they kept face abreast of each other, and whenever their por- tion of the caravan halted for a few minutes, which hap- pened frequently from the pressure of those before, or the intervention of very trifling obstacle.:^ they beguiled the tedium of the day by an Arabic song, accompanying their voices with the common instruments in use among them. * ' As it was conFidered more than probable that the Bedouin Arabs might attack the caravan, in the hope of being able to plunder the females of their jewels, they were hemmed in the centre of the caravan, and very strongly guarded also, by two detachments of fifty men each, under the separate commands of Ibrahim Pasha, and Isnmel Pasha, the viceroy's sons, whose mothei's were also among the principal females of those whom they })rotected. " Towards sunset we had on our left a long line of sand-hills, whose summits were pointed and variegated in a tliousand forms ; and their fine outlines, more ac- curately defined as evening advanced, formed a beautiful contrast, by ojiposing their yellow edges to the deep azure of a serene sky. At Maggril, the hour when twilight e»ds, the signnl-guii was hred to halt ; and while the cafmels reposed on the ground without being unladen, the pilgrims of the caravan performed their ablutions and evening prayers, and another hour was allowed for supper. The hu.U of our caravan being nearly three hours, it must have been about ten o'clock when the cannon announced tons \]\€ order for remounting. Im- mediately the camels ^\'CL'c raised, the portable table- service of tlieir oriental :;iders thro\N n into their bags, 240 MARCH OF A CARAVAN, n and in less than a qnartcr of an hour every one liad r6- snmod his station. " For the supposed safer direction of our midnight march, a considcrabk> number of torches had been light- ed, the largest of them consisting of a long pole, having on its summit a circular frame-work of iron, after the manner of a cage, in which a fire is borne aloft, and fed witii wood as occasion requires. These torches were not only dispersed amongst the body of the caravan itself, but were carried also before the advanced wing, and the rear-guards, who, excepting only at momentary inter- vals, when they were hidden by the inequalities of the road, were always in sight. Amid all my sufferings from fatigue, inconvenience, a. id severe illness, it was impossible to be perfectly prepared for the impressions which our situation was so well calculated to excite; yet I am sure they occasionally lost for a moment their poignancy, if they were not altogether forgotten, in the admiration with which I viewed so grand a spectacle as the one that this hour of midnight presented. The cara- van consisted of more than 5000 camels, besides mules, asses, wheeled carriages, &c. ; and the number of per- sons who accompanied it, mounted and on foot, was cer- tainly double. The four points of the horizon were in- tercepted by the separate groups of lights that accom- panied tliose rospectiv^e divisions of our surrounding guards ; although, while the waving movements of the lights themselves were distinctly marked, not an indivi- dual, either of the Arabs by whom they were borne, or of the guard whose path they were intended to illumi- nate, could at all be seen. Immediately around us, the crowded caravan pureued its march in the most compact and closest order, to the unbroken preservation of which every individual was induced to attend by a regard to his personal safety, when it was considered that we had entered a desert, before whose tribes, if they attacked us, flight would be ineffectual, and upon whose naked plains no refuge from them could be found. The Arab driven t PASSAGE OF THE OIIEAT DESERT. 247 lie sang to their camels very appropriate strains, alternately encouraging them to continue with unslackcned steps towards the fountain, whose streams awaited their arri- val, and promised to lead them to a spot where wells and herbage would reward them with a sweet repast ; then, imploring Allah to give strength and firmness to their limbs, and steadiness to all their paces, while the beasts themselves seemed really conscious of approbation and encouragement being implied in the sounds they heard, most probably from their frequent repetition. ** In short, all the variety of scenes, circumstances, and recollections, arising out of our immediate situation, contributed only to heighten the interest of it, while the slow and steady pace of the camels, the songs of their drivers, the countless numbers of torches that blazed through every part of the caravan, the flying squadron:, of horse that galloped through our lines, and skirtec their extremes, to preserve the compact order of our march ; the scattered parties of Arab musicians, "ho surrounded the litters or palanquins of the harem, and the repeated cries of " Ish Allah!" that were heard at intervals from every quarter, being pronounced in such a tone of voice as to rise superior to the mingled tumult of other sounds, altogether formed a scene, which, for grandeur and impressive effect, I have seldom seen equalled, certainly never surpassed, and of which it would not be easy soon to lose the remembrance. Buckintjhuhi^s Travela, U- Ict PASSAGE OF THE GREAT DESERT. We continued marching on in great haste, for fear of being overtaken by the 400 Arabs, whom we wished to avoid. For this reason we never kept the common road, but passed through the middle of the desert, marching through the stony places over hills. This country i« w^ i< !!' •* >.* 'Ml h \ I 248 PASSAGE OF THE GREAT DESERT. entirely without water ; not a tree is to be seen in it ; not a rock which can afford a shelter or a shade. A transparent atmosphere, an intense sun darting its beams upon our heads, a ground almost wliite, and com- monly of a concave form like a burning glass, slight breezes scorching like a flame ; such is a faithful picture of the district througli which we were passing. Every man we meet in this desert is looked upon as an enemy. Having discovered about noon a man in arms, on horse- back, who kept at a certain distance, my thirteen Be- douins united the moment they perceived him, darted like an arrow to overtake him, uttering loud cries, which they interrupted by expressions of contempt and deri- sion; as, " What are you seekinf/y mjj brother? where are you goingy my sonP' As they made these exclamations, they kept playing with their guns over their heads. The discovered Bedouin profited by his advantage, and fled into the mountains, where it was impossible to fol- low him: we met no one else. We had now neither eaten nor drank since the preceding day ; our horses and othei beastf, were equally destitute ; though ever since nine in the morning we had been travelling rapidly. Shortly after noon, we had not a drop of water remain- ing, and the men, as well as the poor animals, were worn out with fatigue. The mules stumbling every moment, required assistance to lift them up again, and to support their burden till they rose. This terrible exertion ex- hausted the little strength we had left. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a man dropt dov/n stiffs, as if dead, from great fatigue and thirst. I stopt, with three or four of my people, to assist him. The little wet that was left in one of the leathern budgets was squeez- ed out of it, and some drops of water poured into the poor man's mouth, but without any eff^ect. i now felt that my own strength was beginning to forsake me ; and becoming very weak, I determined to mount on horse- back, leaving the poor fellow behind. From this mo- ment others of my caravan began to drop successively, I PASSAGE OP THE GREAT DESERT. 249 and as there was no possibility of giving tliem any assist- ance, they were abandoned to their unhappy destiny, as every one thought only of saving himself. Several mules with their burdens were left behind ; and I found on my way two of my trunks on the ground, without knowing what was become of the mules that had been carrying them, the drivers having forsaken them, as well as the rest of my efte«^<^s and of my instruments. I looked upon this loss witi. the greatest indifference, as if they had not belonged to me ; and j'et they were the strongest of the whole caravan. We proceeded in silent despair. AVlicn I endeavoured to encourage any one of the party to increase his pace, he answered me by look- ing steadily at me, and by putting his forefinger to his mouth, to indicate the great thirst by which he was af- fected. As I was reproaching our conducting officers for their inattention, which had occasioned this want of water, they excused themselves, by alleging the mutiny of the Oudaias; and besides, added they, "Do we not suff'er like the rest r* Our fate was more shocking, as every one of us was sensible of tlie impossibility of sup- porting the fatigue to the place where we were to meet with water again. At last, at about four in the even- ing, I had my turn, and fell down with thirst and fa- tigue. Extended without consciousness on the ground, in the middle of the dcbcrt, left only with four or five men, one of whom had dropt at the same moment with myself, and all without any means of assisting me, because they knew not where to find water, and if they had known it, had not strength to fetch it, I should have perished with them on the spot, if Providence, by a kind miracle, had not preserved us. Half an hour had already elapsed since I had fallen senseless to the ground, (as 1 have since been told), when, at some distance, a considerable caravan, of more than 2000 souls, was seen advancing. It was under the direc- tion of a Marebout, a saint called Sidi Alarbi, who was 260 PASSAGE OF THE GREAT DESERT. !-l il I . f sent by the Sultan to Hemsen or Tremsin. Seeing us in this distressed situation, he ordered some skins of water to be thrown over us. After I had re- ceived several of them over my hands and face I recovered my senses, opened my eyes, and looked around me without being able to discern anybody. At last, however, I distinguished seven or eight sherifs andfakeers, who gave me their assistance, and shewed me much kindness. I endeavoured to speak to them, but an in- vincible knot in my throat seemed to hinder me ; I could only make myself understood by signs, and by pointing to my mouth with my finger. They continued pouring water over my face, arms, and hands, and at last I was able to swallow small mouth- fuls. This enabled me to ask, " Who are you V* When they heard me speak, they expressed their joy, and answered me, " Fear nothing ; far from being robbers, we are your friends" %nd every one mentioned his name. I began by degrees to recollect their faces, but was not able to recollect their names. They poured again over me a still greater quantity of water, gave me some to drink, filled some of my leather bags, and left me in haste, as every minute spent in this place was precious to them, and could not be repaired. This attack of thirst is perceived all of a sudden, by an extreme aridity of the skin ; the eyes appear to be bloody ; the tongue and mouth, both inside and outside, are covered with a crust of the thickness of a crown piece. This crust is of a dark yellow colour, of an insipid taste, and of a consistence like the soft wax from a bee- hive. A faintness or languor takes away the power to move ; a kind of knot in the throat and diaphragm, attended with great pain, interrupts respiration. Some wandering tears escape from the eyes, and at last the sufferer drops down to the earth, and in a few momenta loses all consciousness. These are the symptoms which I remarked in my unfortunate fellow-travellers, and which I experienced myself. PASSAGE OF THE GREAT DESERT. 261 I got with difficulty on my horse again, and we pro- ceeded on our journey. My Bedouins, and my faithful Salem were gone in different directions to find out some water, and two hours afterwards they returned, one after another, carrying along with them some good or bad water, as they had been able to find it ; every one pre- sented to me a part of what he had brought; I was obliged to taste it, and I drank twenty times, but as soon as I swallowed it, my mouth became as dry as before ; at last I was not able either to spit or to speak. The greatest part of the soil of the desert consists of pure clay, except some small traces of a calcareous nature. The whole surface is covered with a bed of chalky cal- careous stone, of a whitish colour, smooth, round, and loose, and of the size of the fist ; they are almost all of the same dimensions, and their surface is carious like pieces of old mortar. I look upon this to be a true vol- canic production. This bed is extended wi+h such per- fect regularity, that the whole desert is covered with it, a circumstance which makes pacing over it very fatiguing to the traveller. Not any animal is to be seen in this desert, neither quadrupeds, birds, reptiles, nor insects, nor any plant whatever; and the traveller who is obliged to pass through it is surrounded by the silence of death. It was not till four in the evening that we began to distinguish some small plants, burnt with the sun, and a tree of a thorny nature, without either blossom or fruit. All Bey's Travels in Morocco^ Tripoli, §*c. 252 CHAPTER VIII. HOLY LAND, &C. Now, where the temple crowned the rock, The wandering shepherd folds his flock ; While through the blue and cloudless skies The musque and minaret arise. Anon. 1 '% SCENERY AROUND JERUSALEM. The most pleasing feature in the scenery around Jeru- salem is the valley of Jehoshaphat. Passing out of the gate of St. Stephen, you descend the hill to the torrent of the Kedron ; a bridge loads over its dry and deep bed ; it must have been very narrow, though in winter a rapid stream. A few steps beyond the Kedron, you come to the garden of Gethsemane, of all gardens the most inter- esting and hallowed, but how neglected and decayed ! It is surrounded by a kind of low hedge, but the soil is bare ; no verdure grows on it, save five or six fine vener- able olive trees, which have stood here for many centu- ries. This spot is at the foot of Olivet, and is beauti- fully situated ; you look up and down the romantic val- ley ; close behind rises the mountain ; before you are the walls of the devoted city. While lingering here, at evening and solitary — for it is not often a footstep passes by — that night of sorrow and dismay rushes on the ima- gination, when the Redeemer was betrayed, and forsaken by all, even by the loved disciple. Hence the path winds up the Mount of Olives ; it is a beautiful hill. On the summit are the remains of a church, built by the Empress Helena. Descending Olivet to the narrow val- ley of Jehoshaphat, you soon come to the pillar of Absa- SCENERY AROUND JERUSALEM. 253 lorn : it has a very antique appearance, and it is a pleas- ing object in the valley; it is of a yellow stone, adornel with half columns, formed into three stages and termi- nates in a cupola. The tomb of Zecharias, adjoining, is square, with four or five pillars, and is cut out of the rock. The small and wretched village of Siloa is built on the rugged sides of the hill above ; and just here the valleys of Ilinnom and Jehoshaphat meet, at the south- east corner of Mount Zion ; they are both sprinkled with olive trees. Over the ravine of Ilinnom, and directly opposite the city, is the Mount of Judgment, or of Evil Counsel ; because there, they say, the rulers took coun- sel against Christ, and there the palace of Caiaphas stood. It is a broad and barren hill, without any of the picturesque beauty of Olivet, tliough loftier. On its side is pointed out the Aceldema, or field where Judas hung himself : a small and rude edifice stands on it, and it is used as a burying place. But the most interesting portion of this hill is where its rocks descend precipi- tously into the valley of Ilinnom, and are mingled with many a straggling olive tree. All those rocks arc hewn into sepulchres of various forms and sizes ; no doubt they were the tombs of the ancient Jews, and are in general cut with considerable care and skill. The valley of Hinnom now turns to the west of the city, and extends rather beyond the north vale ; here tlie plain of Jere- miah commences, and is the best wooded tract in the whole neighbourhood. Above half a mile from the wall is a ruined desolate building, adorned with a few trees^ and said to be the tombs of the kings. On a delightful evening, we rode to the wilderness of St. John. The monastery of that name stands at the en- trance ; it is a good and spacious building, and its terrace enjoys a fine prospect, in which is the lofty hill of Mo- din, with the ruins of the palace of the Maccabees on its summit. A small village adjoins the convent, in which arc shown the remains of the house of Elizabeth^ where 254 SCENERY AROUND JERUSALEM. , i the meeting with Mary took place. The next morning we visited the wilderness ; it is narrow, partially culti- vated, and sprinkled with trees ; the hills rise rather steep on each side ; from that on the right, a small stream flows into the ravine below. The whole appear- ance of the place is romantic ; and the prophet might have resided here, while exercising his ministry, with very little hardship. The neighbourhood still, no doubt, produces excellent honey, which is to be had through- out Palestine. High up the rocky side of the hill on the left, amidst a profusion of trees, is the cave or grotto of St. John. A fountain gushes out close by. When we talk of wildernesses, mountains, and plains in Pales- tine, it is to be understood that they seldom answer to the size of the same objects in more extensive countries ; that they sometimes present but a beautiful miniature of them. From the east end of the wilderness you enter the famous valley of Elah, where Goliah was slain by the champion of Isra( . It is a pretty and interesting looking spot, the bottom covered with olive trees. Its present appearance answers exactly to the description given in Scripture ; the two hills on which the armies stood entirely confining it to the right and left. Tlie valley is not half a mile broad. Tradition was not re- quired to identify this spot ; nature has stamped it with everlasting features of truth. The brook still Hows through it, in a winding course, from which David took the smooth stones ; the hills are not precipitous, but slope gradually down ; the vale is varied with banks and undulations, and not a single habitation is visible in it. From the scenes of some of the battles and positions of armies in those times, it is difficult to account for the mighty numbers stated as having fought ; where could they be drawn up 1 The rich and beautiful plain of Es- dralon is the most spacious area in the country, and was the theatre of some battles ; and the plain of Jericho is next in extent ; but when we read that many hundreds of thousands of men fought around Mount Ephraim, and } SCENERY AROUND JERUSALEM. 265 other scenes in this country, one is tempted to wonder how the confined valleys and open places one traverses could have contained them. At the south-east of Zion, in the vale of Jehoshaphat, they say the gardens of Solomon stood, and also on the sides of the hill adjoining that of Olivet. It was not a bad, though rather a confined site for them. The valley here is covered with a rich verdure, divided by hedges into a number of small gardens. The places within the walls of the city, which tradition would render sacred, are innumerable. Beneath the gate of Bethlehem is shown the spot where Bathsheba was bathing when the King beheld her from the roof of his palace, and the pre- sent tower of David is built on the site of the ancient edifice. A small distance within the gate of St. Stephen that fronts Olivet, is the pool of Bethesda ; it is deep and dry, the sides and bottom overgrown with grass, and con- taining two or three trees. A wretched street leads from this to the governor's palace, a spacious and rather ruin- ous building of Roman architecture ; it contains some good apartments, the windows of which command an ex- cellent view of the Mosque of Omar and its large area. In the palace the monks point out the room where Christ was confined before his trial ; and at a short dis- tance is a dark and ruinous hall, shown as the judgment- hall of Pilate. A little farther on is the arch where the Redeemer stood, as his judge exclaimed, "Behold the man.** You then proceed along the street where Christ bore his cross, in which, and in the street leading up to Calvary, are three places where, staggering under the weight, he fell. These are marked by three small pil- lars laid flat on the ground. Departing from Jerusalem, and after many dangers, we came in sight of the Dead Sea, whose waters cover the cities of Sodom and Gomor- rah. On reaching the brink of the precipices which hang over the Dead Sea, the dawn was just appearing ; and in the grey and cold light, the lake was seen far beneath, stretched out to an interminable length, while 256 SCENERY AROUND JERUSALEM. the high mountains of Arabia Petrcea opposite were shrouded in darkness. The descent of the heights wjis long and difficult ; and ere we reached the bottom, th3 ruddy glare of morning was on the precipices over our heads. The line of shore at the bottom was about two hundred yards wide, and we hastened to the edge of the lake ; but for several yards from it, the foot sunk in a black mud, and its surface was everywhere covered with a greyish scurf, which we were obliged to remove before tasting it. There was not a breath of wind, and the waters lay like lead on the shore. Whoever has seen the Dead Sea, will ever after have its aspect impressed on his memory ; it is, in truth, a gloomy and fearful spectacle. The precipices, in general, descend abruptly into the lake, and on account of their height, it is seldom agitated by the winds. Its shores arc not visited by any footsteps, save those of the wild Arab, and he holds it ia superstitious dread. On some of the rocks there is a thick sulphureous incrustation, which appears foreign to their substance ; and in their steep descents there are several deep caverns, where the benighted Bedouin some- times finds a home. No unpleasant effluvia are per- ceptible around it, and birds are occasionally seen flying across. For a considerable distance from the bank the water appeared very shallow ; this, with the soft slime of the bottom, and the fatigue we had undergone, pre- vented our trying its buoyant properties by bathing. A few inches beneath the surface of the mud are found the black sulphureous stones out of which crosses are made and sold to the pilgrims. The water has an abominable taste, in which that of salt predominates ; and we observed incrustations of salt on the surface of some of the rocks. The mountains of the Judeean side are lower than those of the Arabian, and also of a lighter colour. Bitu- men abounds most on the opposite shore. There is no outlet to the lake, though the Jordan flows into it, as did formerly the Kcdron, and the Arnon to the south. SCENERY AROUND JERUSALEM. 257 lying the I slime pre- ^hing. found IS are IS an lates ; liace of than Bitu- is no it, as south. It is not known that there has ever heen any visible increase or decrease of its waters. Some have supposed that it finds a subterraneous passage to the Mediter- ranean, or that there is a considerable suction in tlie plain which forms its western boundary. But this plain, confined by the opposite mountains, is partially culti- vated, and produces trees, and a rude pasture used by the camels of the Bedouins, although in some parts sandy. It has never been navigated since the cities were engulfed ; and it is strange that no traveller should have thought of launching a boat to explore it, the only way that promises any success. Some stunted shrubs and patches of grass, a mere mockery of verdure, wers scattered on the withered soil near the rocks. The golden and treacherous apples That tum to ashes on the lips. will be sought for m vain, as well as the fish in the lake, which have been also asserted to exist. The length of the Dead Sea is probably about sixty miles, and the gene- ral breadth eight. The sun had now risen above the eastern barrier of mountains, and shone full in the bosom of the lake, which had the appearance of a plain of bur- nished gold. But the sadness of the grave was on it, and around it, and the silence also. However vivid the feelings are on arriving on its shores, they subside after a time into languor and uneasiness, and you long, if it were possible, to see a tempest wake on its bosom, to give sound and life to the scene. The passage over the wilderDcss of Ziph had given us a more complete and intimate view of the lake than the usual route to Jericho, which conducts only to its commencement, at the embouchure of the Jordan. We had now to walk to its extremity along the shores, and over the plain to Jericho, in a sultry day ; and we took a last look of this famous spot, to which earth can furnish no parallel. The precipices around Sinai are savage and shelterless, but not like these, which look as if the finger of an 8 iMMMMlSSIUI 258 JKEL'SALEM FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. avenging God ha«l paF/sed over their blasted i'vontn and recesses, and tho deep at their loot, and '':uised them to renin iji for ever as when they first covered the guilty cities. Carnc's Lrtttrs from the East. JKRl'SAI.KM FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. The Mount of Olives, on wliose summit I \\m seated, slopes suddenly and nijiidly down to the deep ahyss called Jehoshaphat, whiel\ separates it from dernsalem. Fron» the bottom of this somlire and narrow valley, the barren sides of which arc everywhere paved with black and white stones, tlie funeral stones of cb^i.th, rises an immense hill, witli so abrupt an elevation tluit it resem- bles a fallen rampart; no tree here strikes its root, no moss even can tiix its filaments; tlie slope is so steep that the earth and stones continually roll from it, and it pre- sentf4 to the eye only a surfaee of dry dust, as if j^owdered cinders had been thrown upon it from the heights of the city. Towards the middle of the hill or natural ram- part, rise high and strong walls of large stones, not externally sawed by the mason, which conceal their Ilehrew and Roman fonrulations beneath the same cin- ders, and are from oO to 100, and furtlier on from 200 to .'WO, W^i^i m height. The walls are here separated by three city gates, two of which are fastened up, and the only one open before us seiMus as void and as desolate as if it gave entrance only to an uninhabited town. The walls ri->:ing above these gates susUiin a large and vast terrace which runs along two-thirds of the length of Jerusah>m on the eastern side, and, judging by the eye, may be 1000 feet in length, and 500 or 000 in breadth. It is nearly level, except at Its centre, where it sinks in- sensibly, as if to recall to the eye the valley which for- merly sejiarated the hill of Sion from the city of Jeru- salem. This magniticent platform, prepared no doubt the St. cateil, abyss y? *^^® black iscs an resem- oot, no op that it ■i)ve- AY(h*red Is of the il raw- c, not ,1 their i^ie cin- \\ 2(K) to ted by luTui the oh\te as 11. The intl vast fngth of he eye, breadth, inks in- veh ior- otMeni- doubt JKRTSALEM FROM TIIF, MorXT OP OI.IVF-"?. zm by nature, but evidently finislied by the liand of man, was the sublime pedestal upon \Nhieh arose tlu' u-mplo of Solomon ; it now supports two Turkis^h mosques : the one, Ki-Sakara, in the ecntre of the platfonn, on the very spot where the Temple formerly stood ; the other is at the south-eastern extremity of the terrace, adjoin- ing^ the walls of the city. The mosque of Omar, or Kl- Sakara, is a inav-s of stone and marble (*f immense dimen- sions, and of admirable Arab ur( hitecture ; it has eight fronts eaeh frojjt ornameiiti 1 bysiven arcades tonni- nating in «»give ; above this first order is a terraced roof, whence ascends quite another order of arcades more conhned, fiin.-]»ed by a graceful dome of copper, furmeriy gilt. The walls of the building, which are of blue enamel, terminate in light Moorish colonnades, corres- ponding to the eight gates of the mosque. Jieyond these arches, detaelied from any other edifice, the platforms are continued, one to the northern extremity of the city, ajid the other to the walls on the south side. Lofty cypresses, scattered as if by accident, some olive trees and green ornamental shrubs, growing here and there ]>etween the mosques, set off their elegant architecture and thebrilliantcolouringol liie wali*, by thrir pyramidal form and somljre verdure interposing between the facades of the tenipb-^ and the domes of the city. Ik'yond vhe platform, the two mosques, and the site of the Temple, the whole of Jei'U'.alcm is stretched before us, like the ]>Ian of a town in relief, sjiread l)y an artist upon a table, — the eye loses not a roof nor a stone. 'J'hc city is not, as it has been represented, an unshapely and confused mass of ruins and ashes, or a few Uedouin tents pitched ; neither is it, like Athens, a chaos of dust and crumbling walls, where the traveller seeks in vain the shadow of edifices, the traces of streets, the phantom of a city; but it is a city shining in light and colour 1 ])re- senting nobly to view her intact and embaltled walls, her blue nu)S(jue with its white colonnades, her thousand resplendent domes, from which the rays of an autumnal mm 2fiO JERUSALEM FROM THE MOUNT OP 0LITE8. sun are reflected in a dazzling vapour ; the fa9ades of her houses, tinted by time and heat of the yellow and golden hue of the edifices of Pa?stum or of Rome ; hei old towers, the guardians of her . Us, of which neither one stone, one loophole, nor one battlement is wanting ; and above all, amidst that ocean of houses, that cloud of little domes which cover them, is a dark elliptical dome, larger than the others, overlooked by nnothcr and a white one. These are the churches of the Holy Sepul- chre and of Calvary ; from hence they are confounded and appear drowned in tlio immense labyrinth of domes, edifices, and streets, which encompass them ; and there- fore there is much trouble in giving an account of the site of Calvary and the sepulchre ; which, according to the ideas we derive from the gospel history, should be placed on a separate hill without the walls, and not in tlic centre of Jerusalem. The city, confined on the Kide of Mount Sion, has no doubt enlarged herself on the north, to embrace within her circuit tliose two sites which redound to her shame and glory, — that of the murder of the just man, and the resurrection of the in- carnate Deity. Such is the city seen from the height of the Mount of Olives ! She has no horizon behind her to the west nor to the north. The line of her walls and her towers, the points of her numerous minarets, the arches of her shin- ing domes, stand out in bold relief against the deep blue of an orient eky ; and thus exhibited on her broad and elevated platform, seenjs to shine in all the antique splendour of her pr s^heeies, or to be only waiting the word to rise in dazzling glory from her successive ruins, and to be transformed into that New Jerusalem whicli is to come out of the bosom of the desert, radiant with brightness. Lamartine*s PiUjrirnage to the Holy Land. 2G1 fher and ; hei iither ting ; ud of lome, ind a jepul- unded lomes, there- of the iing to uld he not in on the on the iTo sites 1 of the le in- ount of est nor ers, tlie r shin- ep hlue 3ad and antique ing the ruins, which nt with c Land, I ► CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. I WENT to the church of the Holy Sepulchre, anoiired some of the scent- ed water into my haiul. This room was also well light- ed up. At the round end of this screen is a small cha- pel of the Coi>ts, having heen added afterwards to the Sepulchre. This i)art of the church consists only of the dome, and receives a good light through a large circular aperture at to]), which was only an iron network. On iMitering the church, it appears smaller than one would liave expected from the j)onderou8 api>earance of the dome, but more lofty, from the whole building being in .•*uih a hollow. The entrance of the Sepulchre faces a few steps that lead into and through the body of the Greek church, passing luider the other dome of the ( I reek part of the church, to which you ascend by a few steps. J\la y Photographic Sciences Corpomlion 3.t WESr MAIN STRUT WIBSTiR.N.Y. 14S80 (716) S72-4S03 S. ^ \ :\ iV \ ^ 1 o^ & s ^ "MMM 270 ROME. lii; their seat of empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rug- ged chain of Appenines, and on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the view. It was on this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, and I know not where a mighty people could have cho- sen a grander theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for encampments; levels for martial games, and room for that variety of events, and causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. How many triumphant legions have trodden these pavements ! how many captive kings! What throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface ! savage animals dragged from the interior of Africa ; and the ambassa- dors of Indian princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore the favour of the senate ! During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such illustrious scenes ; but all are vanished ; the splendid tumult is passed away ; silence and desola- tion remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed a few black ill-favoured sheep, straggling by the way side, near a ruined sepulchre. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were the only sounds which broke the general stillness, and ob- served the shepherds' huts on its banks, propped up with l)roken pedestals of marble friezes. I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and began writing on the sand and murmuring a melan- choly song. Perhaps the dead listened to me from these narrow cells ! The living I can answer for, — they were far enough removed. You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a scene, especially as the weather low- ered. To-day there was no blue firmament to revive tlie spirits ; no genial gales, no aromatic plants to irri- tate my nerves, and give a momentary animation. Heath and a greyish kind of moss are the sole vegetation V ROME. 271 most ihed ; jsola- with [wcrs, ilcs. icep, chre. the ob- with iie of and elan- tliese were f my low- revive irri- iition. tatioii of this wilderness. Every slope is strewed with the re- lics of a happier period ; trunks of trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, lielmets of bronze, skulls, and coins, are frequently dug up together. I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and meditations ; but I ran back to my car- riage, and drove on. Tlie road not having been mended, I suppose, since the days of the Caesars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. " When you gain tlie summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome," said one of tlie postilions: up wo dragged; no city ap- peared "From the next," cried a second ; and soon, from height to height, did tliey amuse my expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with green pas- tures on their summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here tind there a white house, built in the antique style, with open porticoes, that just received a faint gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the clouds, and tintiiig the meads below. New domes and towers began to discover themselves in the valley, and St Peter's to rise above the magnificent roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene ex- tended, till, winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our view. Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an avenue between terraces and ornamental gates of villas, which leads to the l*orto del Populo, and beheld the S(|uare, the domes, the obe- lisk, the long perspective of streets and palaces all glow- ing with the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, my favourite hour, surround- ed by such objects. You can fancy me ascending Monto Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which supports Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St Peter's. I met the hol^ father in all his pomp returning from 1^ *" 4 *" Mosrow. |: vospors, trinnpols nourishiiijr, ami n inxip of p^unrds clrMNvn out upon IVnlo S( Ang;«'Io, Casfin^*^ a n'HjM'ctfnl glftiu'o upon tlio INloloH Ailriani, I mov;Ml (tii till ilu» full .swoop of St IVfor'Hoolonnado opj'uotl upon n»o. Tlio uj);h irn\!;ular courts of iho Vat loan toworinij: ovor tho oolonnado, till, tho sun sinkinn; hohind tho donio, 1 ran up tlio stopH and ontorod tho p;rand portal, which was on tlio vory point of hoing closed. I know not whoro T was, or to what scono transported. A saorod twilight conooaling tho oxtroniifios of tho structure, I could not distinguish any partioulnr orna- niont, hut enjoyed tho ofloot of the wh«)lo. No damp air or fotid exhalation otVendod mo. The perfume of in- cense was not yot oitiroly dissipated. No human heing ftirivd. I hoard a73 for io a [ere all Ida- line lili- p;oncp, ami i>mss<'(1 (wm or ilinc Cmh' earance. AvS w<' passed the harrier, two of the most c(»nspicuouH ohjccts on each side were the largo lants, and shruhs, and flowers, forced into a glowing though unnatural beauty. The whole appearance of the city is Asiatic ; and as the exhibition of flowers in frcfnt of the better class of houses was almost universal, Moscow seemed basking in the mild climate of Southern Asia, rioting in its brief period of vernal existence, and forgetting that in a few weeks a frost would come and cover their beauty with the dreary drapery of winter. In Moscow, the great, and to mc I had almost said the 274 MOSCOW. : 1 ", I- only object of interest, is tlie Kremlin. I always de- tested a cicerone ; his bowing, fawning, and prating annoyed me; and all through Italy, with my map and guide-book under my arm, I was in the habit of ram- bling xibout alone. I did the same at INIoscow, and again walked to the Kremlin unaccompanied. Unlike many of the places I had visited, all the interest I had felt in looking forward to the Kremlin was increased when I stood within its walls. I had thouglit of it as the rude and barbarous palace of the Czars, but I fouad it one of the most extraordinary, beautiful, and magnificent ob- jects I ever beheld. 1 rambled over it several times with admiration, without attempting to comprehend it all. Its commanding situation on the banks of the Moskwa river; its high and venerable walls; its nume- rous battlements, towers, and steeples; its magnificent and gorgeous ])alaces ; its cathcdralu, churches, monas- teries, and bei fries, with their gilrled, coppered, and tin-plated domes ; its mixture of barbarism .and decay, magnificence and ruins; its strong contrast of architec- ture, including the Tartarian, Hindoo, Chinese, and Go- thic; and, rising above all, the lofty tower of Ivan Veli- ki, with its golden ball reflecting the sun with dazzling brilliancy, all together exhibited a beauty, grandeur, and magnificence, strange and indescribable. The Kremlin is " the heart" and " sacred place" of Moscow, once the old fortress of the Tartars, and now the centre of the modern city. It is nearly triaiigular in form, enclosed by a high brick wall painted white, and nearly two miles in extent, and is in itself a city. It has five gates, at four of which there are high watch- towers. The fifth is "our Saviour's," or the Holy Gate, through whose awe-commanding portals no male, not even the emperor and autocrat of all the Russians, can pass, except with uncovered head and bended body. Bareheaded, I entered by this T^ate, and passed on to a noble esplanade, commanding one of the most interest- ing views of Moscow, and having in front the range of ii v4: Ml MOSCOW. 275 » of now jular flute, I city. Itch- Holy Inale, uans, }ody. |to a Ircst- ce of palaces of the Czars. I sluill not attempt to describe these palaces. They are a comLination of every variety ci taste, and every order of architecture, Grecian, Gothic, Italian, Tartar, and Hindoo, rude, faneiful, grotesque, gorgeous, magnificent, and beautiful. The churches, monasteries, arsenals, museum, and public buildings, are erected with no attempt at regularity of design, and in tlic same wild confusion of architecture. There are no regular streets, but three open places or squares, and abundance of room for carriages and foot passengers, with which, in summer afternoons, it is always thronged. Having strolled for some time about the Kremlin, I entered the Cathedral of the Assumption, the most splendid church in Moscow. It was founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. It is loaded with gorgeous and extravagant ornaments. The iconcstoa or screen which divides the sanctuary from the body of the cliurch, is in many parts covered with plates of solid silver and gold, richly and finely wrought. On the walls are painted the images of more than 2800 saints, some at full length and some of a colossal size, and the whole interior seems illuminated with gold of which more than 210,000 leaves have been employed in embellishing it. From the centre of the roof is suspended a crown of massive silver, with forty-eight chandeliers, all in a single piece, and weighing nearly 3000 pounds. Besides the por- traits of saints and martyrs, there are portraits of the old historians, whose names, to prevent confusion, are attached to their resemblances, as Aristotle, Anachar- sis, Thucydides, Plutarch, &c. Some of the paintings on wood could not fail to delight an antiquary, inas- much as every vestige of paint being obliterated, there is abundance of room for speculation as to their age and character. There is also an image of the Virgin, painted by St. Luke's ovrn hand!!! — the face dark, almost black, the head encircled with a glory of pre- cious stones, and the hands and the body gilded. It is 1. 1 '» Ml 'rM\v. vcvcrmccil for ijs niirnonlouM poworp, ^uMidcd wifli jjn'jii furo, (intl oncl<»st'(l williiii n lin'g(» si!v«'r (Mtvcriii^'^, uliirh i^ never ivMnovesl ImiI on ^^eM^ irli^iouH icstivnls, or 1 n pMynwnt ol a rul)Io (o Iho vfVthr. Hero, Inn, in a niiil from (Itc crosM. ji robe « 1' onr Snviotn's, nn»l jinri ofono offlu' Virgin's!!! And Ikm'c, (oo, nrc flic loinhs orfhoolnnvli pMhinndiM, oiu' of whom, SI. riiilli|>;;o, l»ono\ired 1»v n f'ilvor nionnnicnl, dnred |diU'«' wlioro life soviMoiiins ol" Unsniiv ino orowncd, and thrro isi Imt a slop fnnn Ihoir Ihrono (<» llioir grnvo, for no;n' if is (ho ('iilhiMlrnl ol' llio avchanu(d IMioIiaol, Mio nnoionl biirirtl-plaoo avIumo, in ruisrd sepnlidnvs, li(> tlu* bodii^s of tlio V.nH, IVoni \\\\> linio \v]»on iMosoou- liroiinio \\\y' peal oT empire nnlil llie elo'jo id" llio s»>vente(Mith eenlnry. Ww bodies riv^l in raised tombs or sepnK bres, caeh oovorod >vilb a vidvel pall, and bavinf^' on it a silver ]>lale, benri.iu: I be name oT I be ooo»ipa»»t and ilio dalo of bis deo(\ise. (Moso by in an odd lotdvinj; i-burcb, oonf^lanlly tbronued with devoloos'; a bnmblo strnoturo, Siiid iii»bt of, arid its walls aro strong onouub to last till the gorgeous oilv shall become a dessert auain. After sfndling tbrougb tlie churches, ] a.scentlcd tbo tower <\'i Ivan Veliki, or John the (Jrcat, the first of the O.ars. It is about i^TO fci^t high, and contains ,'],S bells, the smallest weighing 70(H>, and the largest m.ore than V24,(>(>0 pounds I'.nglish. On festivals they are all tolled together, the iMuseovites being extri>nvely fond of Ivan Veliki's music. This celebrated tower rises above every other object in the Ivrenilin, and its large gilded dome and cross are conspicuous from every part of the city. V'rom its top 1 had the finest view of Moscow and the surrounding country, and perhaps the linost panoramic view in the world. Hundreds of churches 'V4.^ M(>F.ro^. 277 itii It I tho tho ioIIh, Ithrtu all \\y\ of Ibovo UUnl :tho cow nest ehes wcrr ill hikI'N v^itli tlnir nlinrmt ir.»niinoml»l«! i;ht ol" il'^ eonllaf^ration, a dreadlul ex])losi(»a shook to their foundation the sacred precincts of* the? Krcnilin, and rent from its hane lo its top the hd'ty to^^•or of Ivan. I dcscendc(| an'l was coiiductcil hy a noldc staircase to the hrlfr rtdf^r, a ^Millery compoH(>d ir wives, in tin* exact costume of the times in whi'di they IIvimI; in another is a mo(h I (d' a pr.laco (irojeeted hy the I'lmpress Catherine, to unite the wh(de Kremlin under one roof havinu^ a circumference of two miles, and m.ike of it on(' ma.mjilicent palace; if it had heen comph>led ac<'ording to the plan, this palace would have surpassed the Temple of Solomoji, or any of the seven wonders of the world. In another is a collection of precious relics, such as the crowns woni hy thediffer- (Ut eni])erors ami czars, loaded with precious stones; the dresses worn at their nnirriaj^es; the cano])ies under whi« h tho emjicrors are niirried, sunnounted hy maqiii- ficent plumes; two canopies of red velvet, studded with p)ld, and a throne with two seats. The crown of Prince Valdiniir is sunnounted by a golden cross, and orna- mented with pearls and precious stones, and, until the time of Peter the Great, waa used to crown the czars; y 278 MOSCOW. the crown of the conquered kingdom of Cazan was placed there by the victorious liands of John Vassilivitch. Be- sides these were the crowns of the conquered countries of Astrachan and Si])eria. That of John Alexius has 881 diamonds, and under the cross wliich surmounts it is an immense ru1>y. There were also the crown of Peter the Great, containing 847 diamonds; that of Catherine I. his widow, containing 258G fine diamonds, to which the Empress Anne added a ruhy of enormous size, bought by the Russian ambassador at Pekin; and, lastly, the crown of unhappy Poland ! * Leaving for a moment the throng promenade, I turned into a thick forest, and entered the old chateau of the great Peter. There all was solitude ; tlie footman and I had the palace to ourselves. I followed him through the whole range of apartments, in wliich there was an appearance of stayed respectability that quite won my heart, neither of them being any better furnished than one of our old-fashioned country houses. The pomp and show that I saw glittering through the opening in the trees were unknown in the days of the good old Peter; the chateau was silent and deserted; the hand .t built it was stiff and cold, and the heart that loved i . had ceased to beat ; old Peter was in his grave, and his descendants loved better their splendid palaces on the banks of the Neva. When Moscow was burning. Napoleon fled to this chateau for refuge. I stopped for a moment in the chamber, where, by the blaze of the burning city, he dictated his dispatches for the capital of France ; gave the attendant a ruble, and again mixed with the throng, with whom I rambled up and down the principal pro- menade, and at eleven o'clock was at my hotel. The reader may perhaps ask if such is indeed what the traveller finds in Russia ; " Where are the eternal snows that cover the steppes and the immense wastes of that northern empire — that chill the sources of enjoy- I MOSCOW. 279 aced Be- tries I 881 is an r the le I. hthe )ught r, the umed jf the m and trough was an on my d than pomp ling in »od old hand loved ire, and on the to this in the 3ity, he ; gave throng, ml pro- jd what eternal astes of enjoy- ment, and congeal the very fountains of life T* I answer, they have but just past hy, and they will soon come again ; the present is the season of enjoyment ; the Russians know it to he brief and fleeting, and like but- terflies, unfold themselves to the sun and flutter among the flowers. Like them, I made the most of it at Moscow. Mount- ed in a drosky, I hurried from church to church, from convent to convent, and from quarter to quarter. But although it is the duty of a traveller to see every thing that is to be seen, and although there is a kind of excite- ment in hurrying from place to place., which he is apt to mistake for pleasure, it is not in this; that his real en- joyment is found. His true pleasure is in turning quietly to those things wiiich are int resting to the imagination as well as to the eyes, and so I found my- self often turning from the churches and palaces, speci- mens of architecture and art, to the sainted walls of tlifc Kremlin. Here were the first and last of my visits; and whenever I sauntered forth without any specific object, perhaps to the ncglectofmany other places I ought to hava seen, my footsteps involuntarily turned thitherward. Outside and beneath the walls of the Kremlin, and running almost the whole extent of its circumferencfli are boulevards and a public garden, called the Emperor's, made within a few years, and the handsomest thing of the kind in Moscow ; I am not sure but that I may add any where else. I have compared it in my mind to the gardens of the Luxembourg and Tuilleries, and in many respects hold it to be more beautiful. It is more agree- ably irregular and undulating in its surface, and has a more niral aspect, and the groves and plants are better arranged, although it has not the statues, lakes, and fountains of the pride of Paris. I loved to stroll through this garden, having on one side of me the magnificent buildings of the great Russian princes, seigneurs, and merchants, among the finest and most conspicuous of which is the former residence of the unhappy Queen of 280 MOSCOW. I I Georgia ; and on the other side, visible tlirough the foli- age of the trees, the white walls of the Kremlin, and, towering above them, the domes of the palaces and churches within, and the lofty tower of Ivan Veliki. On the last day of my stay in Moscow, a great crowd drew me to the door of the church, where some fete was in course of celebration, in honour of the birth, marriage, or some other incident in the life of the emperor or em- press. The archbishop, a venerable-looking old man, was officiating ; and when he came out, a double line of men, women, and children, was drawn up from the door of the church to his carriage, .all pressing forward and struggling to kiss his hands. Thr? crowd dispersed, and I strolled once more through the repository of heirlooms, and imperial reliques and trophies ; but passing by the crowns loaded with jewels, the canopies and thrones adorned with velvet and gold, I paused before the throne of unhappy Poland ! I have seen great cities desolate and in ruins, magnificent temples buried in the sands of the African desert, and places once teeming with fertility now lying waste and silent ; but no monument of fallen greatness ever affected me more than this. It was cover- ed with blue velvet, and studded with golden stars. It had been the seat of Casimir, and Sobieski, and Stanis- laus Augustus. Brave men had gathered round it, and Bwom to defend it, and died in redeeming their pledge. Their oaths are registered in heaven, their bodies rest in bloody graves! Poland is blotted from the list of nations, and her throne, unspotted with dishonour, brilliant as the st^rs which glitter on its surface, is exhibited as a Russian trophy, before which the stoutest manhood need not blush to drop a tear. Towards evening I returned to my favourite place, the porch of the palace of the Czars. I seated myself on the step, took out my tablets, and commenced a letter to my friends at home. What should I write? Above me was the lofty tower of Ivan Veliki ; below, a solitary soldier, in his grey overcoat, was retiring to a sentry-box MOSCOW. 201 the the |my me tarv )0X to avoid a drizzling rain. His eyes were fixed upon mo, and 1 closed my hook. I am not given to musing, hut I could not help it. Here was the theatre of one of the most extraordinary events in the history of the world. After sixty battles, and a march of more than 2000 miles, the grand army of Napoleon entered Moscow, and found no smoke issuing from a single chimney, nor a Muscovite even to gaze upon them from the battlements or walls. Moscow was deserted, her magnificent palaces forsaken by their owners, her 300,000 inhabitants van- ished as if they had never been. Silent and amazed, the grand army filed through its desolate streets. Approach- ing the Kremlin, a few miserable, ferocious, and intoxi- cated wretches, left behind as a savage token of the na- tional hatred, poured a volley of musketry from the bat- tlements. At midnight the fluu.es broke out in the city ; Napoleon, driven from his quarters in the suburbs, hur- ried to the Kremlin, ascended the steps, and entered the door at which I sat. For two days the French soldiers laboured to repress the fierce attempts to burn the city. Russian police-officers were seen stirring up the fire with tarred lances ; hideous-looking men and women, covered with rags, were wandering like demons amid the flames, armed with torches, and striving to spread the conflagra- tion. At midnight again the whole city was in a blaze ; and while the roof of the Kremlin was on fire, and the panes of the window against which he leaned were burn- ing to the touch. Napoleon watched the course of the flames, and exclaimed, " What a tremendous spectacle ! These are Scythians indeed !" Amid volumes of smoke and fire, his eyes blii.ded by the intense heat, and his hands burned in shielding his face from its fury, and tra- versing streets arched with fire, he escaped from the burning city, Russia is not classic ground. It does' not stand be- fore us covered with the shadovv of great men's deeds, A few centuries ago it was overrun by wandering tribes of Barbarians ; but what is there in those lands which ii-ffa:. ■■;.-■ *»n* ntM, Xhvy^'\^\^yy\]^\ i\>m <1ir l^ifllr o< ibi' Hoi ;i> Jlu> .1.' it; nn.l >>hrn i\}\\r '.]\:y]] roxcy wilh i(i iliiM mm.1 ipiief |pJ.^vii-=; i]\:\i Vol.1 r>ni\ i \\i]l ]\o yoo:\y\\\A n«! i>u<'^1vi|»|M\v\ i^U ihiM \^ r Vrrt.1 .>1 rnvn'.in ov Ut>iii;in i>,'^1 v'^oti'nu, !>mi1 llh' tvinio of Ihc Uno'-i.^n Oi>>.vn.>v ^ V^^-^loj'rlnn ^. ii i< bo not loo t«Miah ,T \\,'\int to Inu.l .1o\n> to |'o;tivi(\. nil! no\ri )»i> forrotton. ^':.^V. ]o\v to l'^oii'\V,'\\ . in tho i-oonth o{ l>ro(>i\>Vov UV>'\ ] \^m\o tho tinrfni ot ti\> ynfamnvf \>onv ^p f'M t^o lijivVonv of tity-i. Tl" yo)i o1t>vhilo li'^toniuji \o \\w poui) oV tho V»oon'"?h t^hs^rf^a. yon way lor iho im\c f'nnoy \o\) hc^r ihc ^■'on<5,iT\t«; of tho «?oiTth ot Sp^in ; •mm\ ro. \>ith i\]\ m\ iNvollootions ottho IViiui'^tilri st\^'>1^^U nN> nlvoiio<1 h\ tho p(>>vor of fl'spoointion. 1 f.-nlot^ into tlio owtov hnv1>o\iv, A noMo ftn«^ o.'^]\">oion«5 Ivr^in. \vo1l lrtn«l loo\o«1. nnil o\ov ]ooVo<^ ^y h\]\. r\}\<{ towov. nn«^ nojilivfc^^ fovf. (^no IVvtnpiofo mnn M" wnv lay iv,is t^it^oiilt to l>olit^vo. n** yon mnAvfl tho s1o>-or»ly fipivos lo.ining ovor ih*' pi<\os tint thoy woro the <\osocr\(\f\ni^ of thoso inarinovs >>h«^ first brftvo(i the '■' fsformy s]->irit of tho raft\" 1 ^'fls «»^^on poatod Tin<1or an awning in a l>oat fn'^ni tho s}ioro. art<1 wajs rotAYvhich stamls modoru v^ 0'> \ 9vn I- of \ on « nl\ \ hv o\n\ <^no look \ o« Ilv\t. first f'|o«1, rt "tnnll tlirnfjnliliMMMr nnfl pfiff. t^ofn" ffil(»i' Ik-Imv f Ii« oM l'!l\. nlllrh l)!|M, I'tnin fl V'l'li'l\ nf «'fll|q«"l, |(rf«|( (ll'Mr-ft- rr|, Inllm In (|i'n»\ . fUi'l. nlfl» ♦!»(< (•vi'f'|t(lnn fil Iffi 'Mfi. vpuf't MUtl <'|MMf||i>'<, jHil'ici'i fmd |tfhMi|M, nliici), Iforri !((/» "oli.lil V m| lltfh rntctf ni'-llnii, \i\ l«.fnf»ln, llllM fllt'fl (i(wfi r»'/| , I IflMiIrd if \\\f |>ml : Mfl'l IVofit M)i' 'Ictp (i| »| I'orMiM, Mlf> nnlv |»lf)«(< In (hli ilhlv ♦m^m> In ulihli f fMiiM (ififl WMrMi V, I wfrJr >\ »in|(« fo |||c |rnv»>»IIM|, I i'»|l|f'ff i f iff Jicr ml'JMlmi «M \ liil nlit iJnfl 'I'llr Mfily ftM< loohijltr ffMII ((» Iw' MCI M hi lllo '(((rrlci WfMc lllc 'ti i)(||(<»'1 |Hnl) hT MMlHi'MlJlli/ U ll I(|| liftJ JImIh' ( lir fX I''! MICO f|fl/| InibllsM'tlfp nl VMIlIf \ . On llii' ii'liMM mI HIV qi'ivdnl, tvpftfrdlfi fMuiwI f/irwHt'ln lNoHilni» r;i»| !u' \\\\r\,, \\\ IH UMy, f Ihih (lie f lijflt plfifif fif i»iriM ol rni'iKt imf (rvd ^to (>t(HM'(iill v »i»li In fipp'rirrififo ), U Mrh rli>lll«> I illlct luilil: nj |||«« ln*iflt| Wdh-r ru-fir 'il'j ' Ion. \vlioq(> ••liinrlir" »u»(«»- furlli Iffifn firnofifr ihi'in \\\\\\ <.\\) (liv nl" iiioiKi'ilIc r'>p,, (ukI Mldlflinfiq. Wf» inoovt'il oiM l>o>ll :ii (he tMU'ltMl H(('p»< (if llio fOMVcfif /tr t'ollo^o of Si . riKMiKiMo. Il ^^ (i'< (i ItiiiMifitr (illcrri'tofi, firi'l lloMI ol HJcufn ; I miild jijli' IMi o||«' |m fiii'iwr f fl y iinpili it"^. I piiccti III!' ( IoI'jIcim Ik lou (iii'l lie n»ill''ri»'«i i«lio\ t>. r)ni) IlivHtl lini llu' f»||n III" HIV MWM linfilM. At. \:\^\, I mnv M Mlr|<|\ liHM' ill (Ml opcll flour, (Ifid «'HlfHM;H y. 'I'ft llio Iiwhi vHdircd (riKirdidfi of if I Rldimnnod oul my 'ilf»»y, In very lnfli(rrlo\\. (mil do^lriniji my hoi vdiil In propdco d. oiirry Kfi'l Hpvodd my oinpol on (ho iIvoi'h IkiiiK, I w(ill hill nhovo, lowdiih Iho Anyimlinf' ofinvoiil. I hIuiII novov I'omot Iho doop dull Moiintl of H« hiiifl diifl irif»urfiriil holl, iH Iho fnsi nol(>ofj|M voMper podi Hlrmk npuri rny vi\Y. Ilodvilv (o Iho liodil il, woiil. I iiovor Insard ft J i 2G1 00 A. )| i I J III finer-toned or more sadly musical bcl!; than that which calls from the tower of the Angustines to the forsaken, solitary, and grass-grown city of Goa. I entered its large handsome church. The voice that read, and those that chanted, and the tinkling monitor for their kneelings and crossings, all sounded strangely weak, as if they struggled with a sense of desertion and loneliness, with a deep silence, which mocked and oppressed them. I walked slowly round the cloisters, filled with paint- ings in fresco, of little merit, but the subjects interest- ing ; almost all relate to some tale of martyrdom of the order. The dark and savage Moor, and the pale and patient monk, are in some of them very happily con- trasted. I wished to find the tomb of Francis Xavier ; one of the lay servants directed me towards it. It is in a small church near the empty and decaying college of the Jesuits. A young sacristan opened for me the dark chapel which contains the tomb. It is richly ornament- ed. There is a chest of silver above, said to contain his ashes, and lamps of silver are hung around : below, there are four reliefs most beautifully executed in bronze : the subjects — his preaching to the idolaters, his baptizing of the converts, his persecution, his death. You cannot look upon the portraiture of such a life and such a death without uttering that broken sound, which is neither a word nor a sigh, but which implies that w^e venerate the tenant of the tomb. You pass forth, however, and exult to see the Inquisition open to the curiosity and contempt of the passer-b}^ and abandoned to disregarded decay. Not so do you look at the deserted palace of the ancient governors ; for the Albuquerques and De Castro were no common men. I wandered on through narrow green paths and among tall trees, and visited two more con- vents before sunset. None have their compliment of brethren ; but none, save that of the Jesuits, arc empty. Generally, the superior, and one or two more are Euro- peans, or of European parents ; the others are Goa-born, OOA. 2ur> European only by descent and in name, but baving In- dian complexions, and all the confined notions of tbcir ignorant uneducated fatbers. I returned to my carpet and my curry, and found one of tbe order waiting to conduct me to tbe senior brotber. I excused myself till I had dined, and then went up. lie was very cordial, and amusingly and fussily civil, lie was Indian-born with a deep yellow complexion. He gave me a large glass of excellent Lisbon wine, order- ed me a room and a bed, and seemed to me to carry as many keys, and open as many cupboards, and go as of- ten in and out of tbe chamber, as a disturbed old house- keeper. I found my good host too distrait to give me informa- tion on the subjects most interesting to mo, and I reliev- ed him and myself, by retiring to my cell, where I laid me down on an excellent bed with fine linen, and felt all tbe luxury of being fatigued. With the early mora I was forth again ; again heard the bell of the Augustincs, nnd obeyed its summons. After passing some time in the church and cloisters, I went down to the cathedral : there were ten canons in their stalls ; the dean officiated, the sacristans, the vespers, and the choristers, all in their appointed places ; as for congregation, there was only one person present, an elderly Portuguese gentleman. Yes, there were four stout American slaves, the l)earers of tbe dean's rnancheeln, who talked, and whispered, and gig- gled in tbe side aisles, till the bell announced the elevation of the host, and then ran forward and knelt and crossed themselves. They were fine young men, with athletic frames, naked skins black and polished, teeth like ivory, the thick lip, the woolly and curly head ; and they had the cunning glance, the free gesture, and tbe broad laugh of the half-tamed savage. I was wonderfully struck with all this. The establishment of this cathedral being still supported by the original grants of land, and the priests here, as well as the monks in the neighbouring convents, clinging of course to tlicir property, Goa pre- 2BG SCOT I' S VISIT TO soiiT-s ,'i Rcrne wl'.Io]i ]V'rhai>9 no otlu-r place in the world can or shouM rosotnMo. (toa tlio goMcu exists no lonp'V. (Jon! wliero flio aged De (Janui closed liis glorions lil'e; (Joa! where the immortal (^amoens snnjy and snlVered ; — it is now bnt a vast and grassy tomh; and it se(>niH as if its thin anvc could not under- stand ; hut w'c were struck with the sonorous tones of his voice and the musical cadence of his sentences ; and w^hen he had finished, i\1r. Hill told us that he had spoken in a strain which, in the original, was poetry it- self, beginning, " Americans, I am a Stagyrite. J come from the land of Aristotle, the disciple of I'lato," ikv. \'c. ; telling him the whole story of his journey from the ancient Stagyra and his arrival at Athens; and that, having understood that Mr. Hill was distributing books among his countrymen, he begged for one to take home with him. ]\lr. llill said that this was an instance of every-day occurrence, shewing the spirit of inquiry and thirst Ibr knowledge among the modern Greeks. This little scene with a countryman of Aristotle was a fit prelude to our morning ramble. Winding around the foot of the Acropolis, within the ancient and outside the modern wall, we came to tiie Ai-eopagus, or llill of Mars, where in the early days of Athens her judges sat in the open air ; and for many ages, decided with such wisdom and inipartiality, that to this day the decisions of the court of Areopagites arc regarded as models of judicial purity. We ascended uiis celebrated hill, and stood on the precise spot where St Paul, pointing to the iemj)les which rose from every Section of the city, and towered proud' ■' on the Acropoli-^, made his ceK bratod address : *' Ye njcn of Athens, I see that in all things ye are too superstitious." The ruins of the very temples to which he pointed were before our eyes. t lions, to «t- op\>otl irossod uikUt- inca of 4 ; aiul lie had 'try it" 1 come 0," .Sic. y tVom id that, i; hooks wo home nstanco inquiry Greeks. »va8 a fit hin the to the days of jr many Ity, that litcs arc Iscended It where 111 every nopoli", thens, I lie ruins fore our niTlNS OF ATflKKS. 290 Doseendinp, and rising towards the summit of another hill, we came to the Pnyx, where Demcjsthenen, in the most stirring words that ever fell from human lips, roused his countrymen ngainst the Maeedonian invader. Ahove, on the very summit of the hill, is the tdd Pnyx, commanding a view of the sea of Salamis, and of the hill where Xerxes sat to hchold the great naval battle. During the reign of the thirty tyrants, the Pnyx was removed beneath the hrow of the hill, excluding the view of the sea, that the orato' might not inflame the passions of the people hy directing their eyes to Salamis, the scene of their naval glory. But without this, the orator had material enoug!» •, for when he stood on the platform facing the audience, he had before him the city which the Athenians loved, and the temples in which they worshipped, and 1 could well imagine the irresis- tible f«)rcc of an appeal to these objects of their enthu- siastic d(>votion, their firesides and altars. 'J'he place is a'lmirably adapted for public speaking. The side of the hill has been worked into a gently inclined plane* semicircular in form, and supported in some places by o wall of immense stones. This plain is bounded above by the brow of the hill cut down perpendicularly. In the centre the rock projects into a platform about eight or ten feet square, which forms the Pnyx, or pulpit for the orator. The ascent is by three steps cut out of the rock, and in front is a place for the scribe or clerk. We stood on this Pnyx, beyond doubt on the same Bj)ot where Demosthenes thundered his i)hilippics in the ears of the Athenians. On the road leading to the Museum hill we ni, liUo IM»ilo|>n|>|»us himsolf, >v(niM novor havo Ixmmi honrd of but for iluit moiuinuMit. Dosoonding (ownvdM flio Acropolis, niul onfiMinp; tlm oUy nmontf sdvots oiuMnnbrnMl with vniiuMi IiousrM, wo onmc to tho 'IVmplo of st ancient buildings in Athens have totally TMMNS nV ATrirNKI. not most nirnt • the \ thp r tlmt ig tlie »M, we iiroiml iinl \\o i\ with ifT ilio or, \\(\H whole vay to ^thoucs cut of )n, tho t. It nts of imoiiH U is opairs r l)e- itorost lidcnco >rming oaring is tho is the lacainl re the Many otally disnpprarrd. Tho 'I'urhs «lt'RtrMyfMl nmfiy of iliein lo oonstnirt OhmvhII aroniMl ilif <'ify, ami cvrn tlHMiKxIoni (jlrcoks liavG not ffcnipliMl lo ImiIM their iniRorahle housrfl with th«» |)lniuh>r of \hv tcmpk'S in whirh thrir aiuTHtorB wor^hipjMMl. TasHing iimU'r tho Aroh «»!' A«hian, ontsi<>«> nVIN-J Of MtHi-lt". Ifivinft if rt yrUiMvi'^lt (inf. nlnch qoTfonq \ho iMllllnnrf "i^itlnn l<». I'ho fuNf I viiili-il If. n j»mM- |vniv of tin^rU viM-niif". ^vivn\!n> oovpotnl : nnd nf tlto 9f»ino fiini^ M(>vUiuon wovi' •^Mpusird in 1\Hing ii up for (l»f» nni>n!>fion of 1l montnnonH niMniMil ( tho 1.Mn)>lo'' nt Pfvshnn, Hii'v nv«' inor»» >x^Mf nilnnv.Hion iliniy .v.in<1« vo<1 Mn^^niv i\\o vnit^oil nionnnnni^ o\ I'ovpf nin! f]\<> .lortrK xvifh nnnliMfnl r<^vovonoo iy"* i>oli9. M\ ovv A:\\ I lind p-{\70vi M it fi»n\f]\o l>ii1ot>ny of \\\\ holol.nm! fvo»\i ovorv p.-ivf of fho oily Mn«l Bn^uvU''. Ivnly on my nvrivMl I h:\<\ sAw'wwx] n^nin nnfil I hi\A o\Mnnn«Ml nil vivon( n>vnin. Wo npoondod hy o In-ornl vo;\<^ prtvoi^ >v\fh stono. Tho Rninnnt is ono1o«;ov ft WAll.of xvhioh fix^ww v^f tl\o f\>\inv1;it\uil< by i'litMni^foolos mOov tl\o bnlflo of S.il;^n\i9. 4;n> yonrs boforo Christ. 'Vho rosi is Vonolirtn nnd l^lv)^i'^)^ fnlliuji- io doony. and nmrring nn 1n^lo>r. Tlip cn.-^iN^ o\rtn\inod onr povnut. and >vo p.issod \tndor the g-Ato, A inagnii'ioont pivpylon of tho finest >v1vito mnrhlo, Mooks of tho lrtrsio!5t si^c ovor laid hy humnn luuids, And hj^xing a xvingoftho ««nip mrttorial on ortoh side, rlAndj* Al tho ontiMuco. Though hrokon nnd mined, tho world oontAins nothina: Hko it ovon now. If my fr^t im]'»rossions do not dtvoiw me, (ho prondosi portals of KcyptiAU tomph^s j8\itVor in oompnrison. Ta^tin^: this magniliocnt pn">pylon, and a?!Oonding several sJtepR, we _i ( nriNq up Arm nci. noa Inner nviiMl flnmo IV i^<» y \ U^ \\ ovorv ivivnl 1 imM\ f\\\ V. wiib \ >o\n tod h vopI 19 •. Thp »lor the Mo, mi noil, If my WMW 1 lortsils «nff tbi« rpnt'lu'iHIu' I'miHhmou, m- ni'mnl fr'f»i|i)«» of M'liiprvn ; tin InnntMHo wIuIp imnltlo bII<'(oh, Hm' iMtMoq}. tiioiiii- ini'iii of fin hiltrlnnil fjf'n'Hiq uliifli flip w»trlr b(1w. SlMmlJn|.» ttii lli0 pf»'|m nC lliH frMipIr, Wf» lififl fi»(tim»| 11'^ fill Hull, la liif f'r»"^(ln(i ill (iqq«it miIImm fiii'l fill fluif i« liornil IThI In fiv*. \N'o iiiinlif \v(>l| r(ii>r»>l, (lir (>fi|iil'il of Kin^ Ollii), iiiitl tni ItiM'K ill iiii(i|>iiiiiliiiii In (lin (Mildpri rtffP «»r AHhmih. r<'ii( Icq, u illi llic illimlt iuiiF) llinnifrdf (iriM'lnn Ihmo*''. onilmp, niul fln|r(>q, lm»| nqcpiiflf d flirrn \n woiHliip, fMnl <'ii>f'iM fui)l lilt' iinltlf'qf, mT l!,r' MniMfiriR linil muic (liiMc n fif nimli'rn fuiniwl'? IiikI fslf-I'Ml in (lipjr flfiy^, vv«< hImmiM «oo IliPif iiinurM iiiflcrilM'tl willi llnii- i»\vii Iwimh on llq wnlls. 'Vho tir«'Ml iiMiipIo pIiiihIm on llw vciy Himimil, oF Hio Ano|io|ii, rlt'vnlt'tl fiiv f^liov** Hip I'ropylira nml iho Pnnoiiii(liiin r(|ilir;l l(i/»li nii«l nix IVrl, in •rKimrM'r, mnl on r.M'li Mido woyr ilijricon niorr. 'I'Iip vvlnilw ttMnplo wiiliin (iml willioiil nwip fidoinrd wijii fln> nionfc pplcnditl M-oiK'ioj" Mil.liv IliP rtiRl. Mcnlitloifi in (trv('V(\ ops, we n\){\ IMiitli I'l liiinMrir wron/'lil llin pfnlno of flip K'"''l<'f"'» of ivory nml /;oI(l, IwimiIvhIx (miMIh In'jrli, luivin|/ on on|jf whom Ih J RUINS OF ATHENS. Around the Parthenon, and covering the whole summit of the Acropolis, arc strewed columns and hlocks of polished white marble, the ruins of ancient temples. The remains of the Temples of Erectheus and Minerva Polias are pre-eminen in beauty; the pillars of the latter are the most perfect specimens of the Ionic in existence, .ind its light and graceful pro- portions are in elegant contrast with the severe and simple majesty of the Parthenon. The capitals of the columns are wrought and ornamented with a delicacy surpassing anything of which I could have believed marble susceptible. Once I was tempted to knock off a comer and bring it home, as a specimen of the exqui- site skill of the Grecian artist, which it would have illustrated better than a volume of description ; but I could not do it — it seemed nothing less than sacrilege. Afar off, and almost lost in the distance, rises the Pentelican mountain, from the body of which were hewed the rough rude blocks which, wrought and per- fected by the sculptor's art, now stand the lofty and stately columns of the ruined temple. What labour was expended upon each single column ! how many were employed in hewing it from its rocky bed, in bear- ing it to the foot of the mountain, transporting it across the plain of Attica, and raising it to the summit of the Acropolis ! and then what time, and skill, and labour, in reducing it from a rough block to a polished shaft, in adjusting its proportions, in carving its rich capitals, and rearing it where it now stands, a model of majestic grace and beauty ! Once under the direction of l\Ir. Hill, I clambered up to the very apex of the pediment, and, lying down at full length, leaned over and saw under the frieze the acanthus leaf delicately and beauti- fully painted on the marble, and being protected from exposure, still retaining its freshness of colouring. It was entirely out of sight from below, and had been discovered, almost at the peril of his life, by the enthu- siasm of an English artist. The wind was whistling MOUNT PENTELICUS. 306 whole US and ancient ectheus ty; the nens of ■ul pro- ere and J of the delicacy believed )ck off a 5 exqui- ild have I ; but I irilege. rises the ich were and per- bfty and labour |sv many in bear- it across t of the labour, d shaft, capitals, |ma]estic of Mr. idiment, ,nd saw beauti- ted from ing. It ad been enthu- histling around me as I leaned over to examine it, and, until that moment, I never appreciated fully the immense labour employed and the exquisite finish displayed in every portion of the temple. MOUNT PENTELICUS, Before daylight my companions were in motion. It was just peep of day when we began to ascend the Pentelican mountain. The road was so steep and dangerous that I could not ride ; a false step of my horse might have thrown me over a precipice several hundred feet deep ; and the air was so keen and pene- trating, that, notwithstanding the violent exercise of walking, I was perfectly chilled. The mist was so dense, too, that when my guide was a few paces in ad- vance I could not see him, and I was literally groping my way through the clouds. I had no idea where I was, nor of the scene around me, but I felt that I was in a measure lifted above the earth. The cold blasts drove furiously along the sides of the mountain, whistled against the precipices, and bellowed in the hollows of the rocks, sometimes driving so furiouslj^ that my horse staggered and fell back. I was almost bewildered in struggling blindly against them ; but just before reaching the top of the mountain, the thick clouds were lifted as if by an invisible hand, and I saw once more the glorious sun pouring his morning beams upon a rich valley extending a great distance to the foot of the Pentelican mountain. About half way down we came to a beautiful stream, on the banks of which we took our bread and olives. Our appetites were stimulated by the mountain air, and we divided till our last morsel was gone. At the foot of the mountain, lying between it and Mount Pentelicus, was a large monastery, occupied by Il— I Jt i :^o\\ W'MNi rrNH'i irt'«J. n iN-rtli'vnKv ormouKq. Wornlt'iiMl, nml wnllird (Itroiigh >v»> sr>u oMo ol 1hi< monK>4. lViM>» wlhMU xv«' ol> fhr tpunvirs. iMovlnii on lo Hn' Tim*! oT 1Iii» inonnfdin. >lnlo nunMo Tov xxhirb iMnnnl. IVnirlirn'i \\!\<* boon oi'li>l>vt<)M'fn uhn|»» i>>nv<«l«ii!(> wrvc MorU^, i\\\A nunU« Tho suvl'rh'o h.i« 1>«>.M\ «'n< |>ovprn1 i\\uh. nn»l \M> ov ,MM» im nnUnowii *Alon<. W l\oU' ritio'* \ni!il\< l^iuo 1>(vn huilf of Iho \<\,Uovi;0-« <;>KtM\ !nviiy. t\y\\\ v«'<. hy <'»>\n|vnison ol" whui V* loO. i\\c\v i<5 \iovl\iob, on tl»o vigl\i

      v;iy«M"n. N\ illnn two \i\^i Innnitl o.iNovn\ »>> »M >vh>\<1\ !\olloxv 1nl>os liUo ioiolos. nhilo a B\\\t\\{ 1 V.I nH|v\ rent ^MMviiyina Hu> IvioUlos »U>\vn i\\o rook, i^n ono M»lo rtiv sn^rtll ^^hinnbors oonun\\nio!>vi(li subl< vr!^nrO\is avvnuos. \iso«1, u*> »1«Mib(. ms ^^l;^ooJ» nf \\M\vjiv «l\ninu v j^s iW l\iun\(M ol" voh- Iws. IVmios of nnnu.'Us. n\h1 s*^V<\ sho\vo»1 ihi^t hut Irtloly s\>n\o p;\vt hjul hoou «^lvv\)^\♦^^ AS rt h.ihit .'^l iow. V\w m^v^t o\ort>!»tions ;n'o>\nvl, \>UvVs of \u,uMo lyiuii rts ihoy foil, povh!\^^s t>Vi> u- MTi»^ ytx^t-ji .•\);\\ An*i portv.•n^vv of h.u-inii hoon ono« A !8*vuo of iiumon?!*"' in^htstw :nul l!»h«>vir, stauil \\\ v'Jtvik- iug \Vi^1vAst \>»lh i\w *losolat\on jnul s*^l\(uvh^ \umv o\ist- inc. l^v\•^^l;. tho hnmn^or .-nui chisel will iiovov ho hoAV,^ ihow ^vioiv. c^v;>< ton\plo^ will no nioiv ho r.-nsotl, jvn,i nu\U''ni coiuvis will no>oi% liko tho Viivoks of ohi, liiivko tlio lu^U-^ hUvks of wiaiMo j^poak. i .'107 wvnr 1»y IhUiimI ft tt of llu' no u|M>n if yrnvf. |\o >vh«>U» \\\ wWUlu it or oV whivi vivsiiu lo » II PU\i\U 0\o vook. boow owoo nl \u strik- \o\v exist - uovov bo ks of oUi, IMIIN1 np MTiKN/P!, I Nlrvnn nU ft fircnh'r «l('^it(' «tf i»>vrn'iM'»> HinTi wlirn [ ii|»|u«mrluMHIn» loiH'ly nHi(M(»rMy«'<'iwi>. Al Aiu'tql K|M«iif, inosi nriny iMti(UiH «(tmn'r<(«l vvilli (Ins inoHl inlcn'sl'mir mmiml lieu* ihphmciI u|miii me nt •MH'o. [{» nxlriuutlinnrv nMlit(uily, iln j'ifrMiilir rciutiifiH, Mini i(H iiHri- nixl Init^; runt iiMiril (Irmtlfihoti, rniiH> lioiiir ♦t» my hniil. I movrd on fn fjio ti/itc ol'flio Linus, mikI pftMul luHitro il M li»n|r Mimp wKIioiiI ^nf»'^ill|,^ A iTorid nliiM'l \v\\ f(» 11 III! wren I wo iiuinriino |mnill( I vvjiIIs; and lliis Hln'id nn«y pnliiipM Inivo Imth ii nwirUtd plnrc. Ovor llu' Hiilo in»' two IIohh ininptinl, lil<«» lln» Pn|>|MtrtrrH ol' rt nntdcrn rnnl (d" Mrins, riidtdy nuvrd, niid unpinmcd 1o l»o (h«» oldrwt RiMitplnrrd Hinnc in (J|(mmm>. I'ndcr IIiIh very jiiilo AfjnnnMnnon led onl Ins lorcf r lor I ho Hirgo ol" Troy : lliroo llnniHUinl yniiM mj^mi ho hhw Ihom filing: holoro hin», ^liHorim»: in hr/u's, in nil I ho pomp »umI pinioply of >vnr ; nnd 1 Indd in my hnnd a l»o(d< which lold n»o (hut this oily wns ho old, IhnI moio Ihon wovon- toon hnndivd yortiH mj^o, Inivollorn onmo ns I di«l io visit ilsniin'^; nnd Hint Pnnsnnlns hnd I'onnd llio (i/ifo (d'tho [(ions in Iho sinn<^ stnlo in whicdt I Ixdudd it, tm»w. A ivn^nt pnrt. is hnriod hy Iho rnhhish oF Iho fnlloti oily. 1 omwiod nndor, nnd lonnd mysoll' within Iho wnlls, nnd thon mountod It) tho hoiirht on which Iho city st,o(Ml. It, wns oovorod with n thiidc soil nnd n rioh cnrpot, ol'^rviHs. I wnlkod nil ovor it, lollowin^ tho lino ol' iho wnlls. ] pnnsod nt tho gront. hlookvS ol* stono, tho rmninnts of (Volopio mnsonry, tho work ol' wnndorinf^ ginnfs. Tho honvons woro unoloudod, nnd tho sun wns l)oftminf^ upon it with gonial warmth. Nothing could oxcecd tii» ; .•!t)M AN ],U\ niAN inMH. i]\wi Ix'iuHy "T Hio Hoonc. I Immvuho rnfnn^lril in tlio loiij); »>rf my nuilotoor and my juvonih* oMrort. Thoy pointed fo tho Pun as an intimation that tho day was passing,; ami crying ** Cavollo, (.'avoUo," hurried nic away. iS/rpfiem, AN E«YrTlAN TOMB. i was eager to examine an Kgyptian mountain. 1 had scon two chains iVoni Cairo, hut did not dare to run tho hazard of aproachiiig either. I found this part of the liihyan chain, near Siut, a ruin of nature, formed of horizontal beds and liyers of calcareous stone, more or loss soft, n\ore or loss white, intersected with large nipple-shai^ed and concentrated ilints, which appeared to be the kernels or bones of this long chain, to maintain its existence, and susj>end its total destruction : this dissolu- tion is daily taking place, through the impression ot the saline atmosphere, which penetrates every part of tho iurface of the calcareous stone, decomposes it, causes it v.- i1 in the ing t»vpr onvrrns, (1 h()llt>w o Argon ; |Mfti«o« ; the Piiino, 19 wtfttUOH rrnminrd U(l Mgrtin, I) (Ircroo ; 'iiriuioo «»f [lointtnl U* iniii^ ; and m. 1 l>-'ul to run tho tirt of the formed of [», more or ith largo i)]>eared to [aintaiu it!< lis dissolu- iression ot ^art of the causes it AN r.OVrriAN Tf)MU. n09 fn flpHcrnd',* ns it Nvrrr, in rivulets uf wnnd, wImcIi nrc firFit ncrimniliitod Im'I»>\v flic rock, tlirn roIIfM) awMV by Hip wiml«, nnd Inslly, wnvo Ity w»ivo, driven on tlir villMgcfl nnd licM^, whif'li tlicy cltnrj/rp int(» TFionrn fnl drsrrts. 'Dio rorl<« nro nltont linlf ft mile from Sint ; in thr intcrvoninjj; f^ynro iq n prrfty liouso, ocrnpicd l»y fl«o kirnslipf wIjo governed for Solinifm-l»ey. The roeka lire liollowpd into innnnierable ioinim, more or le,«m va^t, nnd d(M'(irated willi morn or leMii magnificence: this mngnifirenrn tefltifirs tlic ancient, prtjximity of a great oity. All tlie inner porclies of tlicie caverrm are covered with hieroglypliics, wliieli (if llie liingnage were nnrler- utood) it wonM re<|nire a montli to read, an»l whicli, nuTely to copy, wonid employ ye/iiH. ]\y ll»e little light wliich enters at tli(» onter df»or, I ]»crccivcd that all tlie ornaments employed hy the (irceks in their archi- tecture, and M'liieh are commonly called (»reci/m, are there cxectited with exquisite taste and d(dicacy. If these excavatifms were severally tln^ product of the s/i?ne operation, as the regularity of their j)lans appears to in- dicate, the fabrication of a tomb was a great tindcrtaking ; but it is to be T)elieved that, when completed, it served a wh(de family, or whole race, for ever : it would also appear that the living frequently entered it, to perform certain rites in honour (d' the dead ; for, if it Ind n(;vcr been intended to visit these monuments, what end could bo served by elaborate decorationn, inscri|)tio^is never to bo read, and pomp concealed and lost? At various festi- vals, or Jit a new interment, there were undoubtedly celebrated some funeral rites, in which the magnificence of the ceremonies was supported by the splendour of the place ; and this is the more probable, because the decora- tions of the interior present a striking contrast to the simplicity of the exterior. A description of one of the most considerable and least dilapidated of these tombs will convey a good idea of their general fabrication. This tomb consists of a sort of porch, a hall which opens into two chambers, and a -^^fmmsssBs !!•' 310 AN EGYPTIAN TOMB. p^'Alci-y which conducts to three other chambers. The porch, like tlie rest, is an excavation of the rock, the parts wanting to the symmetry of its sides being supplied by a coating of stucco, still in high preservation. At the most exterior part, there is no other ornament than a torus, which borders an elliptic arch ; but from this to the end of the last chamber the whole is lined with Iiieroglyphics, and the ceilings are ornamented with paint- ing and sculpture ; on the sides of the entrance are large figures, which are repeated on the jambs. There do not appear to be any traces of hinges or fastenings : the upper part of the aperture is wider than the lower. The third door leads to the great chamber, in which was a sarco- phagus. The floor has been everywhere dug up. Besides these larger grottoes, there are small ones in such number that the whole mountain has become hollow and sonorous. Farther on, to the south, are the remains of large quarries, the cavities of which are sus- tained by pillars : one part of these quarries has been in- habited by pious hermits : across the rocks, in these boundless retreats, they joined the austere prospect of the desert to that of a flood which in its^najestic course spreads abundance on its banks. This was an emblem of their lives. Before their retreat, perplex-^d with cares, riches, and anxieties : and, afterwards, enjoying serenity and contemplative pleasures ; the muteness of nature imitated the silence to which they were condemned : tho constant and august splendour of the sky of Egypt irre- sistibly commanded eternal admiration : the awaking of day was not hailed by cries of joy, or the ?"imbols of animals : nature, grave and solemn, seemed to inspire only the profoundest sentiment of humble gratitude ; in a word, the grotto of the Cenobite might seem to have .been placed here by the order and the choice of God himself : all that could animate nature shared with him in his melancholy meditation on that Providence which is the eternal distributor of all blessings. Little niches, plasterin£:s in stucco, and a few paintings crs. The rock, the ig supplied n. At the mi than a •om this to lined with with paint- e are large lere do not : the upper The third as a sarco- up. lall ones in as become th, are the eh are sus- las been in- j, in these )rospect of stic course emblem of ^vith cares, serenity of nature mned : the gypt irre- iwaking of ambols of to inspire titude; in m to have ce of God with him nee which paintings TOMBS AT SIOUT. 311 ■ in a red colour, representing the cross, are the only evi- dences and relics of the habitation of these rude cells by the equally rude hermits who occupied them. DenorCs Travels, TOMBS AT SIOUT. On the lofty mountains overlooking the richest valley of the Nile, and protecting it from the Lybian desert, is a long range of tombs, the burial place of the ancient Egyptians ; and the traveller, looking for a moment at the little Mohammedan burying ground, turns with wonder from the little city he has left, and asks, where is the great city which had its graves in the sides of yonder mountains? — where are the people who despised the earth as a burial-place, and made for themselves tombs in the eternal granite ? The mountain is about as far from the city as the river, and the approach to it is by another strong cause- way over the same beautiful plain. Leaving our don- keys at its foot, anr! following the nimble footstep of my little Arab girl, we climbed by a steep ascent to the first range of tombs. They were the first I had seen, and are little visited by travellers ; and though I afterwards saw all that were in Egypt, I still considered these well worth a visit. Of the first we entered, the entrance- chamber was perhaps forty feet square, and adjoining ic in the same range, were five or six others, of which the en- trance chambers had about the same dimensions. The ceil- ings were covered with paintings, finished with exquisite taste and delicacy, and in some places fresh as if just ex- ecuted, and on the walls were hieroglyphics enough to fill volumes. Behind the principal chamber were five or six others nearly as large, with smaller ones on each side, and running backwards perhaps an hundred and fifty feet. The back chambers were so dark, and their atmosphere was so unwholesome, that it was unpleasant, I mmmmmim ' I II '''' i i im immSBB 1 ! \ , i l! i ri ^- • 312 TOMBS AT SIOUT. and perhaps unsafe, to explore them ; if we went in far, there was always a loud rushing noise, and as Paul sug- gested, their innermost recesses might now be the abode of wild beasts. Wishing to see what caused the noise, and at the same to Iceep out of harm's way, we station- ed ourselves near the back door of the entrance-chamber, and I fired my gun within ; a stream of fire lighted up the darkness of the sepulchral chamber, and the report went grumbling and roaring into the innermost recesses, rousing their occupants to phrensy. There was a noise like the rushing of a strong wind ; the light was dashed from Paul's hand ; a soft skinny substance struck against my face, and thousands of bats wild with fright, came whizzing forth from every part of the tomb to the only avenue of escape. We threw ourselves down and allow- ed the ugly frightened birds to pass over us, and f lian huri ^ed out ourselves. For a moment I felt gidi' " :; ? beastly birds driven to the light of day, were dazzled by the glorious sun, and fl3'^ing e,nd whirling blindly about, were dashing themselves against the rocky side of the mountain and falling dead at its base. Cured of all wish to explore very deeply, but at the same time re- lieved from all fears, we continued going from tomb to tomb, looking at the pictures on the walls, endeavouring to make out the details, admiring the beauty and fresh- ness of the colours, and speculating upon the mysterious liieroglyphics which mocked our feeble knowledge ; we were in one of the last when we were startled by a noise different from any we had yet heard, and from the door leading to the dark recesses within, foaming, roaring, and gnashing his teeth, out ran an enormous wolf; close upon his heels, in hot pursuit, came another, and growl- ed fearfully, rolled over, and again the firsts broke loose and fled ; another chase along the side of the mouni .in, another grapple, a fierce and desperate strug- gle, a id then they rolled over the side, and we lost sight of them. While walking along the edge of the moun- tain, in spite of bats and beasts, still taking another and b in far, lul sag' e abode e noise, station- tiamber, hted up e report recesses, 3 a noise \ dashed d against it, came the only d allow- Wid than Ixi^: ^-' zzied by y about, ie of the of all time re- tomb to ivouring id fresh- sterious ige; we a noise he door oaring, f; close growl- broke of the strug- t sight moun- er and TOMBS AT SIOUT. C13 another look, my ears were suddenly struck with a loud vo'ce of lamentation coming up from the valley be- low ; and looking in the direction of the city, I saw ap- proaching over the elevated causeway a long funeral procession, and the voice came from the mourners fol- lowing the corpse. They were evidently coming to the Mohammedan burying ground at the foot of the moun- tain, and I immediately left the tombs of the ancient Egyptians to see the burial of one who but yesterday was a dweller in the land. It approached with funeral banners and devices which I could not make out, but probably containing some precept of tlie Koran. First in the strange procession came the beggars or santons, men who are supposed to lead peculiarly pure and holy lives. Their beards were long, white, and grizzled ; over their shoulders and breasts they wore a scanty covering of rags, fastened to- gether with strings, and all with some regard to proprie- ty. Over their shoulders were slung by ropes large jars of water, which, for charity's sweet sake, and for the love of the soul of the deceased, they carried to be distri- buted gratis at his grave. After them came a parcel of boys, then the shieks and two officers of the town, then the corpse, tightly wrapped from head to foot in a red sash on a bier carried by four men ; then a procession of men, and more than one hundred wom-^n in long cotton dresses, covering their heads and drawn over their faces, so as to hide all except their eyes. The tomb was square, with a round top, built of Nile mud and white-washed ; two men were engaged in open- ing it, which was done simply by pulling away a few stones, and scooping out the sand with their hands. In front, but a few feet from the door, sat the old mother, so old as to be hardly conscious of what was passing around her, and probably long before this buried in the same grave ; near her was the widow of the deceased, dressed in silk, and sitting on the bare earth with an air of total abandonment; her hands, her breast, the top of .1 ! ■j.,^&.rjm 314 HINDOO TEMPtES. m','« her head, and her face plastered with thick coats of mud, and her eyes fixed upon the door of the tomb. A few stones remained to he rolled away, and the door, or rather the hole, was opened ; the two men crawled in, remained a minute or two, came out and went for the corpse. The poor widow followed them with her eyes, and when they returned with the body, carefully and slowly dragged it within the tomb, and the feet and the body had disappeared, and the beloved head was about to be shut for ever from her eyes, she sprang up and wildly and passionately throwing her arms towards the tomb, broke forth in a perfect phrensy of grief ; " Twenty years we have lived together ; we have always lived hap- pil^r ; you loved me, you were kind to me, you gave me brcc J ' "lat shall I do now? I will never marry again. Every ,' I will come and weep at your tomb, my love, my life, my soul, my heart, my eyes! Remember me to my father, remember me to my brother," &c. &c. I do not remember half she said ; but as Paul translated it to me, it seemed the very soul of pathos, and all the time she was walking distractedly before the door of the tomb, wringing her hands, and again and again plaster- ing her face and breast with mud. The mourning wo- men occasionally joined in chorus, the santons ostenta- tiously crying out, " Water, for the love of God and the Prophet, and the soul of the deceased!" and a little girl about seven or eight years old was standing on the top of the tomb, naked as she was born, eating a piece of sugar-cane. Incidents of Travel by an American, • i ■111 i: It HINDOO TEMPLES. The temples of India are not, by any means, so entirely devoid of merit as some authors pretend. A certain air of barbaric grandeur, vastness, and exuberant richness of decoration, united, as in our most beautiful Gothic coats of omb. A 3 door, or awled in, nt for the her eyes, fully and !t and the vas about r up and wards the « Twenty lived hap- 1 gave me rry again. , my love, ember me » &c. &c. translated ,nd all the oor of the n plaster- rning wo- is ostenta- d and the little girl )n the top a piece of lerican. ntirely lertain air ichness of 1 Gothic HINDOO TEMPLES. 815 cathedrals, with a remarkable simplicity of design, pro- duce in the beholder a strong feeling of the sublime. There would seem therefore, to be more ways than one of agitating the most powerful pai^sions of the soul, and although the judgment and the feelings must un- doubtedly concur in giving the preference to those crea- tions of art which at once delight and overawe the imagination, we cannot justly refuse to acknowledge the genius of those more irregular and daring fancies whose productions invincibly command our surprise and admira- tion. The attention of the world has already been directed by many distinguished writers to the cavern- temples of Gava, Salsette, Elephanta, and EUora. Con- jecture, which, when proper data are wanting, is always active, has successively assigned them the strangest and most improbable origin, sometimes asserting them to be the work of the Egyptians, at other times of the Mace- donians, and lastly, to crown the absurdity, of the Jews. At present, however, they are no longer doubted to have been the work of the Hindoos ; but, this being acknow- ledged, it is attempted to be shown that there is nothing y^ry extraordinary in their construction. Speaking of the cavern- temple of Elephanta, in the neighbourhood of Bombay, " it is," says Mr. Mill, " a cavity in the side of a mountain, about half way between its base and summit, of the space of nearly 120 feet square. Pieces of the rock, as is usual in mining, have been left at cer- tain distances supporting the superincumbent matter ; and the sight of the whole, upon the entrance, i? grand and striking." Let us however, inquire in what light the cavern temple of Elephanta has appeared to the most judicious travellers who have visited and described it. The situa- tion, it must be owned, was selected with some judgment. " The path leading to it lies through a valley ; the hills on either side are beautifully clothed, and except when interrupted by the dove calling to her absent mate, a solemn stillness prevails : the mind is fitted for contem- SPW tmes ,-....;- "WJiW^M.^ 316 HINDOO TEMPLES. t! '■ ■ '1 ''i tl 1 ■ ii 1 - . 1 1- : lit :, Ik 1 plating the approaching scene. The cave is formed in a hill of stone ; its massy roof is supported by rows of columns regularly disposed, but of an order different from any in use with us ; gigantic figures in relief are observed on the walls ; these, as well as the columns, are shaped in the solid rock, and by artists it would appear, possessed of some ability, unquestionably of astonishing perseverance." The author, whose minute and excellent description is much too long to be here cited, mentions among the sculptures the beautiful figures of a youth, and, in another group, a male " leading a female towards a majestic figure seated in the corner of the niche, his head covered like our judges on the bench ; the counte- nance and attitude of the female highly expressive of modesty and a timid reluctance." Farther on, he adds, " the part of this surprising monument of human skill and perseverance, hitherto described, is generally called the Great Cave ; its length is 135 feet and its breadth nearly the same." And, again returning to the sculp- ture, " gigantic as the figures are" says he, " the mind is not disagreeably moved on viewing in them a certain in- dication of the harmony of the proportions. Having measured three or four, and examined the proportions by the scale we allow the most correct, I found many stood even this lest, while the disagreements were not equal to what are met with every day in people whom we think by no means ill-proportioned." Another travel- ler, who has left us an entertaining account of Western India, observes that " the principal temple and adjoining apartments are 220 feet long, and 150 broad, in these dimensions exceeding the largest work at Salsette ; but being very inferior in height, notwithstanding the numerous and richer decorations at Elephanta, the spec- tator is constantly reminded of being in a cave. At Salsette, the lofty concave roof and noble columns have a majestic appearance : yet the observer feels more sur- prise and admiration at Elephanta than at Salsette : he beholds four rows of massive columns cut out of the ;d in a 0W3 of fFerent ief are ins, are ippear, aishing xellent entions youth, towards che, his counte- ssive of le adds, an skill y called breadth i sculp- mind is tain in- HINDOO TEMPLES. 317 ^re sur- tte : he of the solid rock, uniform in their order, and placed at regular distances, so as to form three magnificent avenues from the principal entrance to the grand idol, which termi- nates the middle vista, the general effect being heightened by the blueness of the light, or rather gloom peculiar to the situation. The central image is composed of three colossal heads, reaching nearly from the floor to the roof, a height of fifteen feet. To these let us add the testimony of the tasteful, learned, and accomplished Heber, and our proof of the grandeur and magnificence of this cavern temple will be complete. " Two-thirds of the ascent up the higher of the two hills," he says, " is the great cavern, in a magni- ficent situation, and deserving all the praise which has been lavished on it." For the details he refers to another author, and then adds : — " Though my expecta- tions were highly raised, the reality much exceeded them, and both the dimensions, the proportions, and the sculpture seemed to be of a much more noble char- acter, and a more elegant execution than I had been led to suppose. Even the statues are executed with great spirit, and are some of them of no common beauty, con- sidering their dilapidated condition and the coarseness of their material." Of the cave-temples of Kenery, in the island of Sal- sette, the same excellent authority observes: — "These are certainly in every way remarkable from their num- ber, their beautiful situation, their elaborate carving, and their marked connection with Buddha and his reli- gion. These caves are scattered over two sides of a high rocky hill at many difi^erent elevations, and of various sizes and forms. Most of them appear to have been places of habitation for monks or hermits. One very beautiful apartment, of a square form, its walls covered with sculpture, and surrounded internally by a broad stone bench, is called * the durbar,' but I should rather guess had been a school. Many have deep and well M 318 HINDOO TEMPLES. Ki i i carved cisterns attached to them, which, even in this dry season (May), were well supplied with water. The largest and most remarkable of all is a Buddhist tem- ple, of great beauty and majesty, and which even in its present state would make a very stately and convenient place of Christian worship. It is entered through a fine and lofty portico, having on its front, but a little to the left hand, a high detached octagonal pillar, surmounted by three lions seated back to back. On each side of the por- tico is a colossal statue of Buddha, with his hands raised in the attitude of benediction, and the screen which sepa- rates the vestibule from the temple is covered, immediate- ly above the (fodo, with a row of male and female figures, nearly naked, but not indecent, and carved with consider- able spirit, which apparently represent dancers. In the centre of the semicircle, and with a free walk all round it, is a mass of rock left solid, but carved externally like a dome, and so as to boar a strong general likeness to our Saviour's sepulchre, as it is now chisseled away and en- closoid in St. Helena's Church at Jerusalem. On the top of the dome is a sort of spreading ornament, like the capital of a column. It is apparently intended to sup- port something, and I was afterwards told at Carli, where such an ornament, but of a greater size, is likewise found, that a large gilt umbrella used to spring from it. This solid dome appears to be the usual symbol of Buddhist adoration, and, with its umbrella ornament, may be traced in the Shoo-Madoo of Pegu, and other more remote structures of the same faith. Though it is different in its form and style of ornament from the Lingam, I cannot help thinking it has been originally intended to represent the same popular object of that almost universal idolatry. The ceiling of this cave is arched semicircularly, and ornamented, in no very singular manner, with slender ribs of teak wood of the same curve with the roof, and disposed as if they were Supporting it, which, however^ it does not require, nor are i 1^^. this dry r. The list tem- en in its nvenient gh a fine tie to the mntedby f the por- } raised in lich sepa- imcdiate- tlc figures, consider- 3. In the all round •nally lil^c less to our y and en- n the top like the ed to sup- at Carli, is likewise g from it. symbol of ornament, and other iou.i;h it is Irom the originally it of that lis cave is no very )od of the I they were Ire, nor are HINDOO TEMPLES. 319 R they strong enough to answer the purpose. Their use may have been to hang lamps or flowers from in solemn rejoicings." Let us now, to pursue the subject of cavern-temples, accompany to Carli this judicious traveller, than whom we could not desire a more competent guide. Here " the celebrated cavern," he observes, " is hewn on the face of a precipice about two- thirds up the side of a steep hill, rising with a very scarped and regular talus, to the height of, probably, 800 feet above the plain. The excavations consist, beside the principal temple, of many smaller apartments and galleries, some of them ornamented with great beauty, and evidently intended, like those at Kennery, for the lodging of monks or hermits. The temple itself is on the same general plan as that at Kennery, but half as large again, and far finer and richer. It is approached by a steep and narrow path, winding up the side of the hill, among trees and brushwood, and fragments of rock. This brought us to a mean and ruinous temple t)f Siva, which serves as a sort of gateway to the rocks : a similar small building stands on the right hand of its portico. The approach to the temple is, like that of Kennery, under a noble arch, filled up with a sort of portico screen, in two stories of three intercolumniations below, and five above. In the front, but a little to the left, is the same kind of pillar as is seen at Kennery, tliougli of larger dimensions, surmounted by three lions back to back. Within the portico, to the right and left, are three colossal figures, in alto relievo^ of elei)hants, their faces looking towards the person who arrives in the por- tico, and their heads, tusks, and trunks very boldly pro- jecting from the wall. On each of them is a mohout very well carved, and a howdah with two persons seated in it. The internal screen on eacli side of the door is covered as at Kennery with alto relievos, very bold and somewhat larger than life, of naked male and female figures, I asked our young guides what deities those I '■*r^ sr— sEEsarasi ,V1{) IIIMMX) TKMn.l'^S. r I lit i \ r»»|MT«!»Mi1(Ml, nnd wma surpri^oil fo lionr frf>n> llu-ni i'ti IIU<<\V(M', •' Tlii'sc Mrr nol ^odfl, one ^od is sufVnicnf, (lic^n aro rjrm/rr.v," (rrli^ioim ••ntluj^in'^ls, or nilrmlmits on ili«» doity). On nsln'nc, linwtMor, if llnMv j»va8 1MmI\o I >«'<>, ihov nns\v(M(>(l in Iho nftiriuativo, so Ihnt tboir doisni nicrcl y cxtondod 1\> \>ny- ing^ MoHiip to a single idol only. Thoro is cortiiinly, ho\vovtM\ no invito oil her of Ihnhlhn, or nny olhor n»yf ho- loi)ioi\l prrsoniii^o nhont this cjworn. in- any vi^ihlo ohjoot of «lovoti«ni, oxorjit Iho niysl'^' rhotiah, or nnihrolla, «liv!i(lv monlionod at Konnorv. Tin' dofails of