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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those to.^ large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diegrems illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, ate. pauvent Atra filmAs A das taux da reduction diffArants. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul clichA, il est filmA A partir de I'angia supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, an prenant la nombre d'imagas nAcevsaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la mAthoda. rrata o lalure, 1 A 3 32X 1 2 3 t 1 3 4 6 6 p IF YOU WANT TO FIND ANYTHINO IN "THE HANDBOOK," TURN TO THE INDEX. All the Illustrations In "The Handbook," except the few potralts used, were made In The Oreqonian's Engraving Room. * * * J** # The Oreqonian is prepared to do ail kinds of Line Engraving. # * * Send for Prices. * • AMRLES or CNORAVINOa MADE BY THE ONCaONIAN'S ENQRAVINO DEPARTMENT. SAMPLES OF CNORAVtNOa MADE MV ^11/ ■ ' SCND ron Pniccb ENQRAveo Dv The omegonian. ipl THE OREOONIAN" BUILDING, PORTLAND. f KK38 OP Thb Lkwib 4 Urydkn Printinq Company, poptlakd, orboon, january. ibm Copyright 1891 by The OregoniHTi Publisb ng Co. **THE HANDBOOK." In the following pages will be found a mass of interesting matter on the states of Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Western Montana as well as extended mention of British Columbia and Alaska. The data for these articles has all been carefully gathered by TuK Drkgonian through personal visits of its representatives to the different parts of this vast ♦^erritory, and the book as a whole contains more informa- tion offered in an interesting shape than was ever before afforded in any single publi- cation. The claim of infallibility is not made for " The Handbook." In compiling an immense amount of matter, such as is contained in a publication of this nature, mistakes must occur, a lapse, for which the intelligent reader will make allowance. The aim of the publishers of "The Handbook " has been to offer to the jmblic a work, the reliability of which in the main could not be questioned, and the few mis- takes which will be found in the work will not affect in the least its general repute as a reliable publication on the Pacific Northwest which is worthy of the most care- ful attention. The publication of " The Handbook" has involved a year's hard work in gath- ering data and in the compilation of the matter it contains. Certain minor changes have taken place in some of the industries described in " The Handbook " .since the information for these articles was obtained. The changes referred to, however, have simply involved a slight difference in a few cases between the estimates of output, etc. , published and these estimates as they exist today. The general conditions of all the industries covered by "The Handbook" are the same today as they were when the information was gathered for this publication. For 20 years past there has been a steady increase in the volume of exports made from the Pacific North- west, and that the industries of this section will show a steady increasing importance with each successive year in the future is patent to everyone who has the least knowledge of this vast territory and of the opportunities presented for the rapid development of its varied resources. It is this steady growth of its business that makes a reliable publication on the Pacific Northwest of such signal importance at the present time, and it is the opportunity for the profitable investment of capital in the development of the very industries here that have already built up many large for- tunes in this part of the West that insures a future prosperity to the territory covered by "The Handbook" which but few parts of the continent have enjoyed. The compilation of matter for " The Handbook " has not followed in the lines which matter of a kindred nature has heretofore been handled for similar works. Time tables of transportation lines, reliable maps of the country and information of a purely statistical nature are found in the numerous railroad pamphlets which are distributed gratuitou.sly on all the transcontinental lines of road. The general style adopted for the articles contained in the present publication is of an easy descrip- tive nature which will appeal directly to the interest of the reader where statistical matter in tabulated form is valuable only for reference. A large amount of statisti- 4 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. cal matter is fumiuhed in "The Handbook," but this is made an incidental feature to the principal descriptive articles of the book. Enough statistics are furnished to insure the reliability of any general statement made in the book, but it will not be necessary for the reader to wade through a mass of figures to enable him to reach a conclusion regarding the status of any industry of this section. The large number of illustrations which "The Handbook" contains will be found valuable in aiding the reader to form something of a just estimate of the grandeur of Northwestern scenery, the present standing of its industries and the general types of buildings which its leading centers of population contain. No city of the East is better built than are the leading trade centers of the Pacific Northwest, and the many fine buildings of Pc/tland, Tacoma, Seattle, Spokane, Helena, Butte, and other cities of the Northwest will vie favorably with the structures which line the main business streets of New York and Chicago. All travelers over the transcontinental roads terminating on the shores oi ihe Pacific ocean have noted the interest taken by their fellow passengers in the princi- pal centers of population passed by the moving train. Such questions as " What town is this ? " " What is its population ? " " What supports it ? " are always asked by the majority of travelers over any of the transcontinental lines of railroad. These questions are all answered satisfactorily in "The Handbook." " The Handbook " also contains a vast amount of valuable information in its articles on the different industries of the Pacific Northwest and on its most characteristic features. The articles on coal, lumber, mining, fishing and the other industries of the Northwest v/ill furnish all the information desired by the reader on these resources. In addi- tion to these special articles, however, much valuable information is contained on the resources of different parts of this territory in the carefully written articles on its principal centers of population. The article on Portland, for instance, includes extended mention of the leading features of the country which supports the city. In the Tacoma article much space is given to a description of the leading industries which have contributed to the prosperity of the city, including mention of the great coal mines of the Puget Sound country, its vast lumbering interests and its export trade. In the Seattlo article will be found much interesting matter connected with the early settlement of the country bordering on Puget Sound and on the wonderfully rich district which trades with the latter leading center of population. In connec- tion with the article on Fairhaven is published reliable matter on the coal mines back of the city, which produce the best coking coal on the coast, and the import- ance of Bellingham Bay as a harbor of great coming importance. The mines of the Coeur d' Alene, Kootenay and Colville districts, as well as the rich wheat fields of the Palouse and Big Bend sections of Washington, receive extended mention in the interesting article on Spokane, the leading inland city of the state. No part of the Pacific Northwest has been slighted in "The Handbook," and this work contains a greater amount of matter on this section than was ever before offered to the public. The complete index furnished with " The Handbook " will enable the reader to turn to any subject connected with the Pacific Northwest on which he desires infor- mation without a moment's delay. The book as a whole is worthy of more than passing notice, and it is presented by The Oregonian with the belief that it will redeem every promise that has been made for it. Tfie Pacific Northwest. The Pacific* Northwest.— That part of the United States, incliuling Alaska, lying west of the Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains and north of Cali- fortiia and Nevada forms, with British Columbia, what is known as the Pacific Northwest. The states embraced in this magnificent sweep of country are Oregon, Washington, Idaho and Western Montana. The Pacific Northwest has an area of 1,356,338 square miles. This i- ^er one-third as large as the area of all the rest of the United States, and is larg ; 'han the combined areas of France, Geruuiny, Great Britain and Ireland, Italy, Pc t lugal and Greece. The total population of this vast region today does not exretd i,2oo,txx>, less than one person for each squuie mile of its territory. The - jntry v-ontains a little more than a million people today where ten times this numbei could be comfortably supported from the fuller development of its resources, and it ('■ this magnificent promise of future advance- ment that is the country's chiei claim for the attention of the world at the present time. The Pacific Northwest extends from the semi-tropical valleys of Southern Ore- gon to the ice fields of the Arctic ocean. The climate of all this region, with but few exceptions, is a balmy one. All that portion of this section bordering on the coast for 1,000 miles or more north of Portland enjoys the climate of Virginia, with almost an entire absence of snow in winter and without extremes of heat during the sum- mer months. Eastern Oregon, Eastern Washington, Idaho ajul Western Montana experience colder winters than does the section of the Northwest west of the Cas- cade Mountains, but in no part of the Pacific Northwest, with the exception of the interior of Alaska and the mountainous regions of British Columbia, are the cold spells of winter as protracted, or is the cold as intense, as is noted in the winters of the Eastern states. From its most northern end to its southern boundary and east from the Pacific ocean to the rugged summits of the Rocky Mountains the Pacific Northwest is a vast storehouse of natural wealth. It is doubt- ful if in any other sec- tion of equal size in the world has nature been so lavish with her gifts as she has been in the country border- ing on the Pacific side of the United States. Contained in the Paci- fic Northwest are the most extensive coal measures in theUnion; it is here that are found the greatest and most valuable forests in North America; the largest silver and cop- per mines in the world have] ([been opened within its borders, and Mt. hood, Oreqon-From C1.0U0 C»p Inn. 6 The OA-egonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. 'T^^^'~- MT. HOOD-LADD QLACrER. lying side by side with these great deposits of silver and copper, are vast ledges of gold, nickel, lead and iron ores. It is a country of great rivers, teeming with the finest of food fishes; a few miles inland are hundreds of fine lakes stocked with trout, and now utilized largely by water transportation lines, and on tfie western border of Washington, within its limits, is the most beautiful inland sea in the world. This is known as Puget Sound. Its importance can be appreciated from the statement that it floats vessels of any depth; its main channel, with its numerous arms, is the gateway to thousands of square miles of rich coal, timber and agricultural lands, and its surface is never swept by storms. It is possible for a steamer to leave Tacoma at its north- ern end and steam for i,ooo miles or more north over a water course as smooth as any river. In the Northwest, nature has done everything on the most lavish scale. The mountains are high, the prairies are broad, the rivers are wide and the resources are inexhaustible. The country has made wonderful advancement during the past lo years and it is not improbable that the next lo years' growth will cause the Pacific Northwest to rank among the well settled parts of the United States. The many carefully written articles which will be found in other parts of " The Handbook " on the various resources of the Northwe.st give much valuable informa- tion on the extent of these resources and the opportunities afforded for their develop- ment. The reliability of the statements made in these articles is borne out by much statistical matter, carefully gathered. The development of the many resources of the Northwest has but reached the stage where their value hus been accurately de- termined. It is but a few years since, that all >. "^ .is country was a trackless wilder- ness. In the early 40's and 50's a few intrepid adventurers braved death by starvation in crossinif the plains to Oregon. These early pioneers scattered out among the valleys and hills of this region and they thus formed a superficial koowledge of the great diversity of its resources. Some of these men returned to their homes in the East, and the stories they told there of the possibilities for future growth in the Northwest were directly responsible for the large immigration which poured into the then territories of Oregon and Washington a few years later. That the immigrants who early sought homes in the Pacific Northwest found a country here which fully met their expectations is evidenced by ttie solid prosperity of the country today. The output of its products has increased out of all ratio with its increase in population, and, as a result, people have lived better in the Northwest than they have in most other parts of the United States. New avenues of wealth are constantly being opened here, and the development of these resources is all of a most substantial nature. From the time the Argonauts of California first crossed over the summits of the vSiskiyou mountains into Oregon and discovered gold in the sands of the beautiful streams of the fertile valleys of Southern Oregon, the mines of the Pacific Northwest liave produced $670,000,000 in gold, silver, copper and lead. Since the time when the gold-seekers washed $7o,oc)o,qoo in the short space of a few years from the gravel of Alder „, hood-he»o of bandv rivcr. The Pacific Northwest. Mt. Hood- Crater Rock, spiwinq backbone." gulcli, Montana, discoveries of precious metals have been made in nearly every part of this vast region. In 1892 the gold, silver and copper mines of the Pacific Northwest added to the wealth of the world the enormous sum of $57,815,346. The greatest mines on the continent are today located within the borders of this section and tlio development of the mining industry here is but yet in its infancy. Another great industry of the Pacific North- west today is lumbering. The value of the lumbering out- put of this region for 1893 was estimated at $26,000,000. In the many beautiful and highly fertile valleys of the Pacific Northwest are many fine farms. There are today, however, millions of acres of the finest land in the world lying idle within the limits of this country, land which produces annually yields of wheat equalled in no other part of the Union. In 1893 the aggregate wheat crop of the Pacific Northwest was, approximatel}-, 27,000,000 bushels. In the waters of Puget Sound and on the fishing banks of the ocean just off the coast as well as in the numerous bays along the other parts of the coast are vast quantities of the best varieties of food fishes. The Columbia, Fraser and Yukon rivers and the countless smaller streams teem with salmon and other fish. The out- put of the fisheries of the Pacific Northwest is valued at $ro,ooo,ooo annually. In the following pages will be found a complete description of these fisheries and their importance among the present great industries of the Northwest. The Pacific Northwest is a natural wonderland. Here the works of nature have taken many beautiful and fantastic forms. Every phase of landscape scenery is found in this region and descriptions of the most interesting of this scenery will be found in the many articles of " The Handbook." The Columbia river, the beautiful lake region of Eastern Washington, Northern Idaho and Southern Oregon and the Puget Sound country are all famous for the picturesque grandeur of their scenery, and it is doubtful if any part of the world of equal extent with the Pacific Northwest is as attractive in scenic beauty as is the territory covered by " The Handbook," Until 1846, when the international boundary line between the United States and the British possessions to the north was established at the 49th degree of north lati- tude, the territory lying between Oregon and California, the Pacific ocean and the Rocky Movintains was occupied jointly by Great Britain and the United States. The settlement in 1846 of the long standing dispute over the ownershipof this vast region was follov/ed by th^ organization of the territory of Oregon. This was accomplished August 14, 1848. Oregon was admitted as a state into the Union February 14, 1859. The area of the state today is 95,274 square miles, of which 19,874,331 acres remain unsurveyed. The population of Oregon, according to the official census of 1890, was 313.767- Washington Territory, organized in March, 1853, comprised the present states of Washington, Idaho, Montana west of the Rocky Mountains and a portion of Wyo- ^,_, :. , niing. By the creation of the territory of Idaho 10 years later, Washington was reduced to its present area of 69,994 square miles. Of this area 23,432,060 acres are un- surveyed. Wiishington was admitted as a state I'ebruary j'^^^^SSSj^^^' 22, 1889. It now contains a population of 349,390, and is making the most substantial advancement in wealth and MT. HCOD I'ROM 8T«ai HOAD. pUpUlatlOll. rT 8 The Oreffonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northv.'est. Mt. Hood-from Government Camp. When organized in 1863, Idaho Territory included within its limits the present state of Montana and all of Wyoming except the southwestern portion. By the cre- ation of the territory of Montana in 1864 and the territory of Wyoming in 1868, Idaho was reduced to its present area of 86,294 square miles. It contains today 43,745, 194 acres of land that are unsurveyed. Idaho was admitted as a state June 3, 1890. The population of the state is 84,385. In May, 1864, the territory of Montana was formed from Idaho, and in 1873 by the annexation of about 2,000 square miles taken from Dakota, it was given its present great dimei:sions. It is now the third largest state in the Union, it containing an area of 146,080 square miles. Montana was admitted as a state February 22, 1889. The lands unsurveyed in Montana cover an area of 70,192,882 acres. The population of the state is 132, 159. Prior to 1853 the territory of British Columbia was held by the Hudson's Bay Company under lease from the Crown. In that year the discovery of gold on the Fraser river in the province caused a stampede to that section and the region was ( organized as a colony of Great Britain. The following year Vancouver Island, just off the mainland, was included in this •"olony. British Columbia has an area of 383,000 square miles and a population according to the census of 1891 of 97,612. It is on Vancouver Island that the old and very wealthy city of Victoria is located. Since 1858 the mines of British Columbia have produced $53,200,000 in gold. The gold output of the province in 1893 was approximately $600,000. The product of the British Columbia fisheries from 1876 to 1893 was valued at $26,000,000. The exports from the province now average $7,000,000 a year. Alaska, the latest territorial acquisition of the United States, has an extreme length north and south of i,iuo miles and an extreme breadth of 800 miles. Itscoast line, including its islands, is 26,364 miles. It has an area of 577,390 square miles, which is nearly one-sixth the total area of the United States. Of the 31,759 inhab- itants of Alaska, less than 5,000 are whites. In May, 1867, a treaty was signed by which Alaska was sold to the United States by Russia for $7,200,000, a sum which wau considered by many at the time as vastly in excess of what the acquisition was worth to the government. In 1870 the treasury department leased to the Alaska Commercial Company for a period of 20 years the sole privilege of taking seals on Prebilof Islands in the territory. The number of seals which could be killed by the company each year under this lease was limited to ioa,oo -. Up to 1890 the annual value of fur seal skins exported from these islands was about $1,500,000. The lease e xpired in that year when a new lease was made between the United vStates and the company, in which the annual catch of seals by the company was limited to 60,000. The total value of the seal skins taken in Alaska from 1867 to 1890 was $33,000,000, and the com1)ineil value of all the products of the territory during the same pario.l was $35,000,000. The proceeds of the govern ment tax on seal skins taken in the territory during the .same time was $5,871, o(K), or over five-sevenths of the total price paid by the government for the purchase of Alaska. Mt Hood-The Summit Topography and Climate. 9 ,t" MT. RAINIER WAfVMINOTON Topography and Climate of the Paclflc Northwest. (By B. S. Pague, formerly in charge U. S. Weather Bureau, Headquarters, Portland, Oregcr.) Toi'OORAi'HY. — Omitting from consideration the Cascade Mountains, the country under discussion has an elevation of from sea level to 8,aoo feet. ., i^*!! This latter height is found over a '^e =#;•"£ small area in extreme Northeastern Idaho, in Central Idaho extending northeastward into Montana, and in the nort!-?. western portion of Montana. These elevations form the main watersheds for the country second to thosf^ formed by the Cascade jNIountains. These latter have peaks extending upwards of 10,000 feet. The country throughout is of volcanic origin, hence consists of an undulating surface with im- mense plateaus, the latter having an elevation of from i ,000 to 4,000 feet. The distinguishing topographical feature is the Cascade range, rising quite abruptly and traversing Washington and Oregon almost due north and south; be- ginning at the northern l)oundary line of Washington, at al)out the 121st degree of longitude, west from Greenwich, thence southerly, inclining slightly to the southwest and entering California slightly to the west of the I22d degree of west longitude. The continuity of this mountain range is broken at almost the 46th degree of north latitude by the Columbia river, which flows through the mountains near to this place. The general mountain range is higher in the southern portion of Washington than elsewhere. The extreme apex is reached at Mount Rainier, Washington. * The Coast range of mountains extends from the peninsula of Washington south- ward along the coast into Lower California, being broken by the Columbia river. Their elevation in Washington ranges from 1,000 to 8,000 feet, the latter being the height of Mount Olympus, the apex of the Coast range. In the central portion of that part of Oregon which they traverse, their elevation reaches 3,oum^^^^ Mt, Hood at Timber Cine. n 10 7'Ae Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. to the sunimit of the Rocky Mountains; the western portion of Montana has an elevation of from 4,000 to 8,000 feet, while almost the entire state of Idaho has an elevation of from 2,000 to 6,000 feet. Thus it is seen that from the shore of the ocean eastward to the eastern boundary line of Idaho and to the central portion of Montana there is a continuous rise in the elevation. A map giving the contour lines of this portion of the United States, would show a marked irregularity in their direction, and marked gradients between them. The various elevations account for the marked climatic difference, the distribution of rain and .r\C ^?;f fc>?:, '^■^ snowfall, the character and constituent parts of the soil, the surface and sub-soil drainage of the water; so that, in ■•*^'*^fc^ i^^^^^^*^'^-"^^ ^ counti'y, the soil, topography and climate ^ -^'^^'f^(r?'i#'^'^'^^^^ each be considered, singly and collectively, for each ■■^''s-it " *' and all depend upon '^ach other and upon the whole as Mt. Hood-Ice Hummock, Eliot Glacier, a unit. A birdseye view of the area under discussion would show mountains, hills, dales, valleys and streams. From the Missouri river westward there is a gradual increase in the elevation of the 1 ud, a gradual breaking up of the prairies and a more marked appearance of mountainous conditions, the latter of a more barren nature than will be found on the western approach to the apex or crest of the Rocky Mountains. From the ocean, as distance increases the forests decrease. The country bordering upon the ocean is, or has been, densely covered with timber. The Coast range of mountains from the Straits of Fuca southward is a continuous growth of the finest timber. Crossing the valleys lying between the Coast and Cascade ranges of moun- tains, the topography and soil are pec-iiarly adapted to the growth of trees, and this land when cleared, leaves conditions ideal in their character for agricultural pur- poses. We find the Ca.scade range, especially the western side, possessing timber unlimited, almost, in quantity, which decreases from the crest of the mountains east- ward, and especially so from the eastern foothills of the Cascades on to the crest of the Rockies. The vegetable growth and the various topographical features depend entirely upon the climatic conditions, to be discussed in the accompanying pages. Climatology depends mainly upon the mountain ranges. Their exte:it and a/t^ and the topographical features of a .section should be thoroughly understood before entering upon a study of the climate. The mountain ranges and the basins should be carried in mind, thus facilitating the understanding of the changes in tempera- ture and distribution of moi,sture. Hence the ranges of mountains — the Coast, Cas- cade, and the Bitter Root mountains of Idaho, the basins of Rogue River, Umpqua, Willamette, Puget Sound which embrace Puyallup as well, the Columbia, Snake and smaller basins through Idaho and Western Montana — all enter, in a greater or less degree, into the discussion of topography and climate, and each .^gJB^'-virr'-vS^-tg^a. posr.esses its various climatic changes. The following state- ment based on deductions from "Gannett' Dictionary of Elevations," will in this connection, prove of great value: ^ Mt. Hood- Illumination Rock. Approxinialfl jjean Hnixht Area in Square abo^'n S«a Lavel Mi'ss- I Fett. Washington Oregon Idaho — Western Montana 70,000 95,tHKi 86,300 47.500 2,600 3,Suo 4,700 Areas in Square Mit.es Between Sea Level & 1,000 ft. 1,000 and 2,000 and 2,000 feet. 3,000 feet. 16,000 I I.OUO None None i8,oot 11,300 1,100 750 3.000 and 4,000 feet. 15,400 10,800 13,200 9.750 4,000 and! Above 5,000 feet,i5,0(l() feet 6,900 11,000 16,000 11,000 4,400; 9,400 30,000, 21,000 22,200 34,500 i6,ooo| If), OCX) , Topography and Climate 11 Mt. hood, Broken Mountain near Summit. The large area of Washington having such a large percentage of low elevation is due to the great Puget Sound basin, the coast district and the great valley of the Columbia. Oregon's high elevation is due to the high plateau east of the Cascades, which gradually increases to the higher elevation of Idaho and Montana. The forego- ing general description of the topography of this country, covering an area of about 300,000 square miles which, if properl}' han :ied, would fill more than the present volume, should be borne in mind by the reader, while following the climatic discussion in the following chapter. If the rainfall were projected on the same map as the lines of contour, a remark- able coincidence would be noted ; in fact, the climate of this section is so directly dependent upon features of topography that at least this outline of topography must precede a discussion of climatic conditions. Thr Climate. — In 15 degrees of longitude (110° to 125°) and in 10 degrees of latituc'e (40° to 50°) are seldom found such climatic changes and conditions as are found in the section now under discussion. The portion of the Northwest west of the Coast range has a climate almost marine in its character, while to the east of the Cascades is found almost a continental climate. The entire subject might be con- fined to a few words if but literal facts were wanted, but these should be explained in order that the reader may thoroughly understand the causes of the marked changes, the distribution of temperature and of moisture. The temperature along the coast usually ranges from 30 to 55 degrees during the winter months and from 50 to 80 degrees in the summer months. The precipitation varies from 60 to 80 inches annually. In the section lying between the Coast and Cascade ranges the temperature during the winter months ranges from 15 to 60 degrees, in the summer months from 50 to 90 degrees and the annual precipitation varies from 55 inches along Puget Sound to 20 inches in the southern portion of Oregon. To the east of the Casci.iles and extending eastward to the eastern line of Idaho, thence northerly to the British possessions, the range in temperature is much greater and the precipita- tion much less. The temperature in winter months ranges from 40 degrees above to 41 degrees below zero, the latter at Helena. In summer months it ranges from 44 to 107 degrees, the latter at Boise City, Idaho. The precipitation varies from 10 to 20 inches. This brief statement shows a decrease in the precipitation from the ocean eastward, while the temperature increases in range and in severity of extremes as the elevation increases and successive degrees of longitude are passed to the eastward. There are several marked causes which produce these marked and almost un- usual climatic changes. The ocean is the great modifier of range in temperature and prevention for extreme cold and extreme heat. The ocean's influence fails to reach in its great effects to Montana and Idaho, due to the mountain ranges. Over the major portion of Washington, Oregon and the western portion of Idaho the seasons are well defined and are divided into the wet and dry seasons. These seasons are more marked west of the Cascades than to the east of them. The influence exerted by the ocean and by the topography ex- plains the peculiar weather types to be found in this section. Hence it would be well to treat of the oceanic and mountain influences. Mt. hood. Steel Party at Crater Rock 12 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. I ' MT. HOOD-BARRETT'S SPUR. The larji^est of all the oceans, the Pacific, is least subject to perturbing influ- ences of a local character. The conditions are constant over large areas ; its cur- rents, both of wind and water, are drawn in broad sweeping curves, in which extent ,,,, of space and time of passage serve to over-ride all mere local T-t*' .-sS',si''.*ft'S or temporarj' modification. Thus, it is enabled to present ' ' ' * almost the ideal problem of oceanic circulation, and to iiijii-i;::^^^, array upon the climate of this section a few masses of i^^to - simple influence which becomes involved and difficult of study only through the continental disturbances. Without interruption, that part of the North Pacific .J^afimx::.^^ ocean which may be considered as modifying the climate of this section , stretches away over very nearly loo degrees of longitude. To the west it is bounded hy the extreme Orient, the islands of Japan with their northern projection over the Kuriles to the coast of Kamtchatka and their southerly connections with the Philippines. The northern limit is drawn by the Aleutian islands and the eastern border is the shore of North America. To the south no co.isistent mass of land f.ppears to hem this ocean in, yet the barrier is none the less strong, because it may be measured onlj- with the instruments of the meteorologist. It e>dsts at the 30th parallel of north latitude. Below this boundary line is the region of the northeast trade wind and the westward drift of the equatorial current, and these two serve sufficiently to bound in wind and water the great basin above. It is a basin within these limits, a rough ellipse having a major axis of 100 degrees of longitude and a minor axis of 25 degrees of latitude. It has its characteristic system of circulation both of atmosphere and sea. The strongly individualized ocean current of the region is the Kuro Siwo or Japan gulf current. Developed from the cumulative progress of the equatorial drift and directed by the rapid alteration in the plane of the sea l)ottom and the trend of the Asiatic coast, this warm stream moves across the whole Northern Pacific ocean. Occurring in a broader sea it shows several important differences from the gulf stream. It has a slower motion, its warmth is not so strongly contrasted with the water through which it flows, and the wind blowing counter to its course frequently avails to deflect it or even check it entirely. Its eastern development and dispersion has been for years a battle-ground for theorists, and even now it is impossible to say definitely that it reaches any part of this coast, yet it is generally accepted that it does. Beyond a question of doubt the Japan gulf current is the main cause of the modified climatic conditions which prevail over the greater portion of this section. The mountain chains act as the second great modifier, for by them the winds from the arctic regions are deflected to the east, thus allowing the ocean winds, carrying with them the temperature there prevailing, to spread over and temper the other- wise cold winds and air. These winds have a clear sweep across man}' thousands of miles of sea, and in all their course they incur no resistance save such as is caused by convective friction due to varying amounts of pressure within their mass. But the moment they cease to flow over the .sea and begin their course over the conti- nental mass, they are subject to violent perturbations, and present all the features of MT. Rainier~A River of Ice. Topography and Climate. 18 Scenic Effects-mt. Rainier. turbulent motion, its irregular and rapid changes of pressure, its rapid expansion, its sudden alteration of the saturative constants, and variation of temperature. The wind drawn in from the sea by the general circulation of the atmosphere may be taken to hold in suspension the maximum amount of moisture, and, other things being equal, to approximate the satura- tion amount theoretically to be expected in air of a given pressure and at a given temperature. Advancing upon the land the air current im- mediately encounters perturbing influences of man}' sorts. Without taking the reader through a labyrinth of meteorological or scientific phrases, it will be sufficient for the purposes of this description of the climate to relate that the moisture-laden atmosphere, carried by the general circulation of the air and moving towards depressions in the great atmospheric envelope, the moisture is condensed by being forced against the mountain side, thence upward, and the major portion being precipitated on me windward side, that which is still held in suspension is carried eastward, where new conditions are met with and a possibly new mixing of the atmosphere takes place. New temperature conditions are met with, the disturb- ing cause, the depression in a part of the atmosphere near at hand, continues the turV)ulent motion and moisture is precipitated over the country to the leeward of the mountains ; on its movement eastward the second range of mountains is encoun- tered, higher than the first, and possessing a lower temperature, which acts as a great resistance to the outward march of the disturbing element and the passage winds from the ocean to its rear, the moisture is again precipitated on the windward side of this second range, and, if the disturbing cause is sufficient, it crosses the second range, meets another temperature condition, and here again moisture is con- densed and precipitated, thence onward to the Rocky Mountains and eastward. This brief description of the condensation of moisture over this section and its pre- cipitation in the form of rain, snow, sleet or hail, will give the reader a general idea of the causes of excessive rainfalls west of the Coast range, a less amount between Coast and Cascade Mountains, and still less to the east of the Cascades. The climatic conditions of Montana are more under the influence of the general movement of atmospheric disturbances to the east of the Rocky IMountains than to the west of this range, hence for this reason the seasons in Montana &^e not so marked by wet and dry as they are over Idaho, Washington and Oregon. These wet and dry seasons are not to be taken as such in a literal sense of meaning, but rather in a distinguishing sense, /. e., during the so-called wet season the liability for rain is much greater than it is for fair weatner, and contra for the dry season. The causes of tlie.se two marked seasons lie in the general movement of the winds, the inclination of the earth and the diff'erence in the amount of heat received from the sun, the amount of heat absorbed or reflected and the amount of heat prevalent in the air. QlSRALTER AND NISOUALLV GLACIER. MT. RAINIER. 14 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. { A Near Approach to Mt. R.^inier. Due to the change of seasons, the inclination of the ^^jjpn. earth, during the autumn months the amount of heat ^'7';'.'j;^;,'ji)jj,';.^'; received from the sun gra.lually lessens, hence a cooling ri*!^ of the air. It should be borne in mind that air at a tem- perature of 50° will hold but one-fourth as much moisture in suspension as it will at a temperature of 100°. With this fact in view, it can be seen that the continuous move- ment of the moisture-laden air from the ocean meets, in the autumn, a gradual cooling of the air over the land, hence the precipitation begins. As the disturl)ing causes become more frequent, due to the greater cooling of the air over the land, the precipitation becomes more fre- quent and heavier, until the maximum cold of winter has passed and the warming of the air of spring begins, With this increased heat, the disturbing causes become less frequent, until in the summer they almost entirely disappear. The winds from the ocean continue during summer, and they have as much moisture in suspension as they had before, but the greater heat of the air over the land allows this moisture to be t:)ken up and absorbed, and not cooled and precipitated as Jl is in winter. The gentjral movement or circulation of the air is a great factor in v.e change from the wet to the dry season, but the change is more due to the change ui heat than in the change in the winds, though the latter carry great weight in the argument as to the causes of the wet and dry .sea.sons. There now have been presented the main factors of the climate and its causes. The mechanical resultant of these causes is the climate of this region, a climate which, practically constant as a whole, displays equalh' constant differences between the several natural districts into which the region is divided. Yet, before proceeding to a more minute description of these various districts, it will be advisable to present a general review of the climatic characteristics which dominate the whole region. The distinguishing characteristic of the climate of the region is, that varieties of weather endure practically unaltered for days at a time, and, even when supplanted by others, return again and again, and on each such recurrence are symmetrical with their former appearance, even when they are not practicall}' identical. In this regard there is a wide variation from the conditions which obtain elsewhere in the United States. Nor is this the only difference. Another notable one is that the storms of the Pacific are with comparative infrequency traced across the Rocky Mountains and the Atlantic slopes Another is that the storm frequently increases rapidl}' toward the north. When the area of low barometer of considerable depth overlies Washington and probably is central far to seaward, its movement eastward is checked .f not pro- hibited by the Cascade and Rocky Mountains. Held back by this mountain wall and the eciuallj- potent barrier of high barometric pressure eastward, the low pres- sure is kept beating against the.se obstacles. While this condition endures, gales occur along the coast and rains occur over most of the region. When, on the other hand, a high area is central over Washing- ton, the low pressure is central over Cali- fornia, fair weather, light winds and an increasing temperature prevail. We have now given in general terms and briefly the ^r r.. . ' •. r causes of the changes in the weather of „, „,,„,„ ,,„ lake Washington, Seattle. PHOTO. BY LA ROCHE. Topography and Climate. IS Camp Portland neah Mt. Rainier. this region on a general scale. The object of this paper is to give a more minute description of the climate of the region in order that the inquirer or the present citizen can become more familiar with a section whose area is immense, its climate embracing all changes from the sunny clime of Italy to the rigors of an arctic clime; a section that produces every known product of the temperate zone, rich in minerals, fish, wood and natural resources, and possessing qualifications which should and which will entitle it to a population more dense and more prosperous than that which any section of our broad land now possesses. No single feature with which we come in contact during our existence has such an influence upon our lives, our occupation, our progress and advancement as has the weather. Upon the climate depends everything, hence such an important part of our existence should be thoroughly understood and be familiar to every one. That more attention is being paid to a study of climate, to changes, causes and t 'fects, is evinced by the greater interest displayed in the work of the national weather bureau. It is only through the medium of this organization that we can learn of the climate from a practical or scientific standpoint, and it is by having access to its reco.ds and data that this article was made possible. This article is based entirely upoi. ofl'icial data, hence is authentic. Covering 15 degrees of longitude and 10 of latitude, it loes not seem so improb- able that the region should have such a wide difftrerce in climatic conditions. The marked features of this difference are the precipitation over the extreme northwest section of Washington, at and near Neah Bay amounting to over 100 inches, eight and one-half feet of water, annually, while in portions of Southern Central Washing- ton about Pasco, in Southeastern Oregon and in the central portions of Idaho, less than 10 inches, or less than one foot, of water falls annually. vSuch is the difference in precipitation in inches. In snowfall along the coast, snow is as much a rarity as it is in the southern sections of those states bordering upon the Gulf of Mexico, while in the Cascade Mountains, on the higher mountains of Idaho and ^Montana, snow falls to a depth of several feet, and over a large portion of the country to the east of the Cascades, snow covers the ground during the latter part of December, in Janu- ary and for part of February. This is not true of the immediate Columbia river vallej- and on the lower plateaus. In temperature as great a difference exists. Along the coast a temperature below 10° above zei-o has never been recorded, while to the east of the Cascade Mountains temperatures of 10° above and below zero occur every winter. Such an extremely low temper- ature as 41° below zero was recorded at Helena, Mon- tana, in January, 1880. These extremes are quoted to show the wide range of climatic conditions which exist over this region. The following statement will give the reader a gen- eral idea of the climatic condition prevailing over this section In selecting the stations for which data is given FALLS NEAR MT. RAINIER. ^^ ^as becu eudcavorcd to select those which give the ri' 10 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. most complete type of the climate for their section. The figures given are taken from reports of the United States and Canadian weather bureaus. A few stations distributed over the whole country are included in the table for comparison. Stations Mean Annual Temperature Highest Temperature on Record Lowest Temperature on Record Average Summer Temperature Average Winter Temperature Av'ge Annual Precipitation in nches Victoria, B. C Esquimault, B, C New Westminster, B. C. Soda Creek, B. C - Spence's Bridge, B. C.-- Olynipia, Wash Spokane, Wash — Walla Walla, Wash--- - Astoria, Oregon Portland, Oregon Roseburg, Oregon Bandon, Oregon Baker City, Oregon Helena, Mont Boise City, Idaho 48.5 48.8 47-5 41.6 47.0 49-7 47.2 5-7 49.8 53-4 53-2 5I.8 45-^ 43-3 50.5 86 79 90 110 102 97 102 108 88 102 102 92 lOI 103 106 104 100 101 100 106 97 105 109 8 17 2 -38 -14 -2 -30 -17 10 -2 -6 14 -14 -41 -28 -!i -13 -23 -22 15 -29 2.S 58.2 58.2 59-7 66.4 69.5 60.9 66.9 71.8 5H.7 65.7 64-5 57-9 63.1 644 70.3 38-0 40.0 35-3 14.9 22.4 42.6 27.4 35-3 40.3 40.4 41.6 459 24-5 20.1 31.8 34-6 33'^> 28.6 27.1 .^3-4 56.3 31-2 54.7 34-72 24.82 62.88 7.48 10.17 55.9S 20.08 17.94 75.49 49-34 36-52 61.58 14.20 12.53 14.30 Washington, D. C New York City Boston , Mass Chicago, Ills- St. Louis, Mo- New Orleans, L,a Denver, Colo Los Angeles, Cal 54.7 51-4 48.1 48.5 55-6 69.0 49-3 61.4 75-2 71-3 68.7 69.9 76.7 81.4 69.6 . 70. r 44.66 45-47 46.42 36.00 38-37 62.94 14.31 18.38 * Figures preceded by the minus sign, indicate temperature below zero. The mean annual temperature has considerable variation over the section. Soda Creek, in British Columbia, having the lowest mean and next to Helena has the low- est temperature on record for this section Walla Walla has the highest mean tem- perature. Portland and Roseburg have nearly as high a temperature. These tem- peratures are nearly as high as that of Washington City. The extreme temperatures at Walla Walla, having a range of 125°, are much greater than those of Portland or Roseburg. Portland has the highest mean temperature and least range with the highest mean of any station in the district. xJandon, Coos county, Oregon, on the ocean, has the least absolute range of temperature of any station in the district. The mean temperature of all the stations except Helena and Soda Creek is higher than the mean over a great portion of the United States. The mean temperature does not convey the proper information for an agriculturist, hence the highest and lowest temperatures on record, covering a period of ten years or more are given. Along the immediate coast line the maximum temperature is rarely above 85° and has never been as low as zero, temperatures below 10° above zeio being very unusual on the coast. In the interior, but to the west of the Cascade range, the extreme sum- mer heat rises to 90° almost every year, and extremes of 102° are on record. Cross- ing to the east of the Cascade Mountains extremes of 105° and 110° are recorded. Through the major portion of the United States maximum temperatures of 100° are are taken ff stations 1. iv'ge Annual Precipitation in Inches 34-72 24.82 62.88 7.48 10.17 55.9S 20.08 17-94 75-49 49-34 36-52 61. 5S 14.20 12.53 14.30 44.66 45-47 46.42 36.00 3«-37 62.94 14-31 18.38 ion. Soda as the low- meau tem- These tein- tnperatures 'ortland or e with the fon, on the strict. The : is higher iraturc does and lowest en. Along 1° and has unusual on treme sum- »rd. Cross- e recorded, of 100° are Topography and Climate. 17 NtsQUALuy Glacier- Mt, Rainier. recorded, and in a great portion of this high summer temperature injurious effects result from the heat, such as prostration, sunstrokes and the like. This depressing effect during the high temperature is due to the increased moisture of the air during the increased heat. Over the entire area of the section under discussion the ill effects of heat are unknown A sunstroke has not been recorded. This difference is due to the fact that with increased heat there is a decrease in the moisture, so that when perspiration is formed on the body the great evaporating power of the air is such as to immediately evaporate the body moisture, thus producing a cooling effect. Then too, the dura- tion of heat is comparatively short in thi3 section, while in the Eastern states the duration of heat fre- quently extends over a week. This long extension of debilitating heat adds new fuel to the already super- heated body and having no relief during the night, there is no cooling or rest for the blood, the result of continued exposure to the heat finally produces prostration with frequently fatal results. In this section the period of warm or hot weather is of short duration, seldom extending over two or three days, and during the continuance of this heat, as at other times, the nights are cool, thus allowing the body to almost entirely recuperate during the period from sunset, when the cooler ocean breezes are experienced, to 10 o'clock A. M. the next day when the heat again begins to be experienced. Over the greater portion of British Columbia, Montana, Idaho, Wash- ington and Oregon a blanket is a comfortable and necessary covering during the night, even during the period of the maximum sumr heat. Considering these various conditions it does not seem peculiar that during extreme heat, which in Chicago, St. Louis, New York and other Eastern cities would result in sunstroke, here leads to no great or serious inconvenience or results. Due to the proximity of the ocean and the chain of mountains to the east (the Coast range), that section lying to the west of the Coast range is free from zero tem- perature, in fact generally free from even freezing temperature. Between the coast and Cascade Mountains, once in the history of meteorological record, has the tem- perature gone below zero, and that period was in Janu- ary, 1888, when orange trees were' frozen in Southern California and zero temperature occurred in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia. From self-register- ing instruments at the weather bureau office in Portland, the following data is deduced which will to a great extent be true of the entire country lying between the coast and Cascade Mountains. During the year 1890, at Portland, the temperature was below the freezing point for 529 hours or during 6 per cent, of the hours of the year. In the same year the temperature was above 90° during 11 hours or less than one percent, of the hours of the year. The non-frost period was from April 15 to October 9. In 1891 the teth- perature was below the freezing point during 153 hours or during 1.7 per cent, of the hours of the year ; it was above 90° during 33 hours or three-tenths of one per cent, of the hours of the year. The non-frost period was from April 11 to November 16. To the east of the Cascades the extreme summer temperature is GREAT COWLITZ GLACIER-MT. RAINIER. & ■ (■ i 1 i ! 1 t ^— ^^^— 18 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. ° below at is seldom SSO'i' Cowlitz Glacier and Tatoosm range. Mt. rainier. higher and winter temperature decidedly colder than to the west of them. The winter temperature is below zero every winter and sinks as low as 41 Helena, Montana. Through the immediate Columbia river valley it lower than 15 or 20 degrees below zero, and this extreme is seldom of long duration. The winter period, during which stock must be fed, seldom exceeds seven or ten weeks, usually six weeks is the utmost limit. To the west of the Cascades wheat has.not been known to " winter freeze " while to the eastof them it frequently freezes. For the purpose of furnishing a general idea of the usual winter and summer temperature the table given above notes these temperatures for the various stations. In sum- mer Walla Walla, with Boise City a close second, has tlie highest mean temperature, while Bandon has the lowest. The usual summer mean temperature is about 65° for the whole region. In winter at Soda Creek and Spence's Bridge, British Columbia, at Spokane, Baker City, Helena and Boise City, the mean winter temperature is below the freezing point, with the lowest at Soda Creek. The temperature over the greater portion of this .section is favorable to the growth of fruit, agricultural and stock products. A care- ful analysis of the data given in the foregoing table would take many pages, but the gist of it all, so far as temperature is concerned, is here given. The column on the right in the foregoing table contains the average annual amount of rainfall. The term rainfall includes all forms of precipitation. The heav- iest rainfall in the United States occurs at Neah Bay, extreme Northwestern Wash- ington, where it amounts to over 100 inches annually ; thence north and southward there is a decrease. A'. Astoria there are 75 inches ; at New Westminster, B. C. , there are 63 inches. Along the immediate coast it amounts to over 60 inches, or five feet, annually. In the interior there are many local variations, but generally speak- ing, from Puget »Sound, north and south, there is a decrease. Olympia has 56 inches annually, Victoria 35 inches, Portland 49 inches, while in the southern portion of Oregon it is but 22 inches. To the east of the Cascades it varies from 7 to 20 inches. In this section about one-third the annual amount occurs in the form of snow, while to the west snowfall does not form over 5 per cent of the annual total, and in years not i per cect. The generally received opinion is that the heavy rainfall along the coast sections extends over the major portion of this section, while it is a fact that excessive rain does not extend over 3 per cent of the country. Again, on the other hand, it has been represented that tothe east of the Cascades the country is almost rainless. The statemen^ is absurd on the face of it. The annual rainfall occurs principally from December i to March i, where, save to the east of the Cascades, 65 per cent of the rain occurs. The area over which there is less than g„„, north glacier, mt. baker, at .000 feet. OOBBS, NEW WHATCOM. Topography and Climate. 10 leni. The ' below at is seldom 1 of long eeds seven ; Cascades frequently dea of the iven above . In sum- id, has the the lowest. 65° for the :e's Bridge, a and Boise le freezing eniperature able to the Ls. A care- able would ned, is here rage annual The lieav- itern Wash- l southward ister, B. C. , ches, or five rally speak- as 56 inches n portion of 20 inches. Water Fall near mt. baker, wash. IT 6000 FEET. 10 inches of rainfall does not cover 10 per cent of the entire woto. it mtitcM. region. Over this area the precipitation during the dry sea- son is about one-fifth of what it is during the wet season, showing a quite general distribution of moisture throughout the year. It follows from such a distribution of rainfall that it is more beneficial to agricultural operations andj more fruitful than in those sections where summer rains I and storms do so much damage to the harvested crops. This entire section is favored with a climate of unusual mildness. While the immediate coast regions have very heavy rainfalls, yet such rain occurs during the winter months of December to March, and in all cf ses the wet sea- son gives /ay gradually to the dry iason during July and August. While the prepondering aaiount of rain falls dur- ; ing the winter, yet the spring, early summer and late fall are marked by moderate rains at not infrequent intervals. From a perusal of the foregoing the general climatic condition of this region can be understood, and the rela- tion of the climatic condition to health will now be briefly discussed. As has been shown, the atmospheric changes of this region are more uniform and of minor range, when compared with the great portion of the United States. This absence of disturbing meteorological forces, as indicated by the narrow range of barometric and thermometric oscillation, is sufficient to account for the freedom here from epidemics caused l)y atmospheric influences, and especi- ally the absence of those atmospheric conditions favorable to the development of bacteria and all cryptoganic and sporadic germs, and on account of the divers currents of air mingling with the breezes from the mild Pacific, contagious and epidemic dis- eases are easily controlled, while such diseases as typhus and cholera are entirely unknown, and even typhoid forms of malaria are quite easily controlled, when compared with the same class of diseases in the climate of the Atlantic seaboard. The climate west of the Cascades is generally too damp for consumptives, but on the plateaus east of this range it is the best climate for them in the world. Atmospheric: causes of disease reside chiefly in the varieties of atmospheric changes of moisture and temperature, sudden changes in temparature, excessive moisture or dr ness, different electric conditions, or a deficiency of sunshine. The atmosphere may be a source of disease in consequence of its being loaded with impurities, malaria, con- tagions of vf -ious kinds, and noxious gases in general, and an endless variety of septic germs. The range of atmospheric temperature compatible with human life is very consi^' .rable. Its limits are probably just those extremes of heat and cold that belong to the lower strata of air in the different parts of the planet on which man is destined to exist. Under the burning sun of ,, ^.Jthe tropics and amid the profound frost of the Sjfei^i polar regions are alike found human dwellers. '*!.' These different degrees of external temperature impose peculiar physical characters ujKJn those who are subjected to th^m, but they do not MT. JEFFERSON, OR., FROM GR.zzLy TARN. of ncccssity cxtitguisfa Or even cause disease. W" Ill IT ao The Oregonian s Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. It requires more care, however, to preserve life under intense cold than under intense heat. In India and other portions of the tropics the temperature ranges for a long time from Soto 120 degrees. The mingling of the arctic and tropical atmospheres ht ic combines to produce t.n anomalous climate singularly free from the severer forms of disease found in either of these zones. The gradual effects of great heat upon the human body operate distinctly as an exciting cause of disease, and give rise to sudden attacks of illness. In the arctic countries, on the other hand, where the sun appears for a short time above the horizon , and where the thermometer sinks to 50 or more degrees below zero, are still found inhabitantSj but they are few and thinly scattered, dependent mainly on the scanty supply of food in those parts of the world. Under a degree of temperature a Uttle greater than that of the tropics, or a little less than the lowest of the arctic regions, it seems probable that man would soon perish, and in this fact we have a striking instance of the adaptation of the health-giving properties of a climate free from those extremes of heat and cold. Closely connected with the effects of temperature upon the health is the influ- ence of the dir^rent seasons of the year. It is open to the commonest observation that the general health of the community fluctuates with the changing seasons. Catarrhs, coughs and pectoral complaints of all kinds are apt to commence or grow worse in the winter and spring months, while bowel complaints are more numerous and distressing in the summer months. The mucous membranes of the air passages sympathize with the skin unJer the agency of extreme cold ; those of the stomach and intestines under that of continued heat. The thoracic disorders are more seri- ous and fatal than those of the abdominal. Cholera prevails where the temperature stands at a high degree for a considerable length of time, and proves fatal where cholera germs luxuriate in a hot and unchanging atmosphere. The climate of this region is entireh- free from this disease, for the simple reason that the germs of this particular form of disease cannot flourish in this mild antiseptic climate, with its ever chr.r:ging currents of air drawn from the mild Pacific and mixed daily with the gentle breezes from the tablelands of the adjacent coast. Sunstroke, yellow fever and the like are unknown in all this region, for the reason that the mild, warm days are followed by refreshingly cool nights, which make the climate destructive to the germs which live in continuously hot localities and develop these remarkably fatal maladies. And so it seems quite conclusive that the tiiv."apeutics of the climate of this region is remarkable in its effects both as to its prophylactic agencies and its curative effects on all diseases peculiar to our race. Soils of the Pacific* Nortli\vest.— In a pre outburst covered the principal part of Oregon, Wash- ington and Idaho with a sea of molten lava, effectu- ally destroying every vestige of vegetable and animal life. This volcanic stone covered an area of '•00,000 square miles to a depth of over 2,000 feet. It is this lava, crumbled by mechanical action and by the ele- ments to an impalpable powder, mixed with the ac- cumulations of years of decaying vegetation, that now forms much of the soil of these states. Generally, U may be tated that in no part of the world is the soil more productive or lasting than are the soils of the best lands of the Pacific Northwest. -historic age, a great vo canic *-« rt fe 'vH^^ w^^Sjr W/ H In i v,»|H||ffi| B™M| K f^m 'Nrrffnii wiiP p * Tall Wheat Raised in Willamette Valley, Oh. Soils oi the Pacific Northwest. 21 der intense > for a long mospheres he severer great heat , and give md, where neter sinks re few and larts of the ropics, or a man would tion of the d cold. IS the influ- abservation ig seasons. ce or grow numerous lir passages le stomach : more seri- emperature fatal where nate of this ;rms of this ite, with its ily with the ellow fever warm days ctive to the kably fatal climate of cies and its jat vo. canic '■'l<^ ^s n|i^HHK|V| I only small vated with- irrigation. ;s abundant and other ma valley ind Adams ern Wash- ima valley, e now cov- [ in Oregon ively small few coun- there still xluctive as cost of pre- ecessary is and is esti- avernment, ?s the total al expense :s per acre, ction when 's are given iresent the ality of the n the first ligh as $20 the cost of .25 an acre. I a tract of tivation its cost of re- in irrigated re have at- apitalists to Northwest, : I 1 4 /I • .. 1 m:ii J. i I'J';»j "i. 41 m jfe't*' |L«v m A M^M^^Mi'!\i Wm ii M^^r ^ SJ^Hi. i mwt'^^mt w& \K wG'^iwKm ^nfji '.'■Jl )E%'''iwbi Tllfth m ;';i:„,,"""^ ' : -^^ F. J;i>«^^ '^ and active steps have already been taken to reclaim thousands of acres of land in Eastern Washington and Idaho by digging ditches and conducting water in sufficient quantities to insure ample crops on this land in all seasons. Rivers and Harbors of the Pacific Nortliwest. — The Pacific North- west contains several great navigable rivers, innumerable rivulets, and a score or more of beautiful Alpine lakes and a series of magnificent harbors. It also boasts of an incomparable inland sea which offers the finest harbor for shipping in the world. Through this vast region, and draining an area of no less than 298,000 miles, flows the Columbia river, one of the greatest watercourses of the continent. The Columbia river rises among the Rocky Mountains, in a wild and romantic part of British Columbia. Its course for 1,020 miles lies through British Columbia, the states of Wash- ington and Oregon, to the Pacific ocean at Astoria. From its source it first flows in a northerly direction. After re- ceiving the waters of Canoe river it describes a sharp turn and then flows in its southerly course towards the ocean. Below the line of the Canadian Pacific railway it expands, forming the Arrow Lakes, two beautiful mountain-walled sheets of water. At Robson, 40 miles north of the inter- national boundary line, it receives the waters of the Koote- nay river. This latter stream, from its mouth to the Kootenay Lake, a distance of 28 miles, is a surging and foaming torrent, which makes three distinct falls over huge ledges of rocks. This river rises among the mountains of East Kootenay, and in reaching Kootenay Lake it describes a semi-circle, flowing successively through Montana territory, thence into Idaho, and then back again into British Columbia. A peculiarity of this stream is that near its source it flows due south, while over a low divide, only five miles away, the Cohnnhia river winds its way northward. From Kootenay Lake, a beautiful sheet of water, hemmed in by mountains 6,000 feet high, the Kootenay river is navigable to Bonner's Ferry, Idaho, a station on the line of the Great Northern railway. From Bonner's Ferry to Jennings, Montana, a distance of 62 miles, ob- structions prevent navigation. At Kootenay sta- tion the river begins a rapid descent, and in this fall two great cataracts are formed. From Jenn- ings, on the river, a line of boats plies to East Kootenay, which is separated from Kootenay Lake, in the west division of the province, by the Purcell range of mountains. At Fort Sheperd, an old abandoned post of the Hudson's Bay Company, just north of the American boundary, the great Clark's i'ork pours its waters into the Columbia river. Clark's Fork rises among the mountains, near Butte, Montana. g,. ^,,„ p,,,,, kooten., r,ver, b, c. Cape horn Columbia River. ^J — .= ¥ i il 26 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. t i Glimpse of Kootenay Lake, B. C. It is first known as Silver Bow creek, then successively as the Deer Lodge, Hell Gate, Missoula, Clark's Fork of the Columbia, and finally as the Pend d'Oreille river. It is navigable, for broken distances, through Idaho. Crossing the international boundary line the Columbia river pursues its south- erly course, receiving numerous small streams along its course before it is finally joined by the Spokane river. This latter stream is the outlet of Lake Coeur d' Alene, Idaho, and is not navigable. After receiving the waters of the Spokane, the Columbia turns nearly due west, forming what is known as the Big Bend of the Columbia. The river winds here around the foot of basalt cliffs 2,000 feet high. F'rom the summit of these cliffs a broad plateau stretches away southward for about 150 miles. This plateau is the famous wheat-producing section known as the Big Bend country of Washington. After flow- ing south for a distance of 214 miles from the international boundarj', the Columbia is joined by the Okanogan river, which flows from the lake of the same name in British Columbia. This stream is navigable for about 40 miles from its mouth. Between the boundary and the mouth of the Okanogan river the Columbia falls 524.4 feet, being pn average fall of 2.5 feet to the mile. The average velocity of the surface flow over this course is 3. 48 miles per hour. After passing the Okanogan the next streams which add their waters to those of the Columbia are the Methow, Chelan, Entritow, Wenatchee and the Yakima. A boat now runs from Rock Rapids, on the Columbia river, to the mouth of the Okanogan river, a distance of about 80 miles. Rock Rapids is a station on the line of the Great Northern railway. The part of the Columbia from the head of Rock Island rapids to the foot of Priest rapids covers a distance of about 60 miles. These two rapids and Cabinet rapids are the principal obstructions to navigation along this part of the Columbia. At Rock Island rapids the river has a fall of I2>2 feet over a distance of 8,000 feet, and it falls 10 feet in 8,000 feet of its course at Cabinet rapids. At Priest rapids there are seven principal rapids, extending over a distance of 10 miles. Between *he little dalles and Priest rapids are many obstructions which interfere with continuous navigation. These consist principally of rapids which, however, can be overcome if Congress will appropriate suffi- cient money to insure navigation through them. The total fall of the river over Priest rapids, at low water, is 72 feet, and at high water 63^4 feet. Boats can now, at cer- „^ .„ , „ ^ ^ ^ „ tain stages of the water, pass over Bio Falls, i ootenav River, Line Col. R. A Koot£n»» Rv. o ' r PMOTO. QV NULAN09 BHOS., NELSON. .; Rivers and Harbors. ;e, Hell Gate, iUe river. It lies its south- ; it is finally oeuid' Aleiie, 'olumbia are iiouth of the n on the line lead of Rock liles. These Dn along this ^2 feet over a binet rapids. re are seven nding over a Between *he it rapids are lich interfere ation. These apids which, Dvercome if )priate suffi- e navigation tal fall of the jids, at low it high water now, at cer- er, pass over all of these rapids, though "lining up" is usually necessary to allow a boat to pass up the river here. Priest and Rock Island rapids will always be diffi- cult places in the river for boats to pass until either systems of locks or boat rail- ways around tliese dangerous rapids are built. When the improvements around the cascades of the Columbia are finished and the dalles shall be successfullj' passed and the upper rapids of the Columbia are improved, Portland will enjoy uninter- rupted water communication with the wheat fields of the Big Bend and Palouse wheat-producing sections of Washington, as well as with the mines of the Chelan and Okanogan mining districts. Just south of Pasco, a station on the line of the North- ern Pacific, the Columbia is joined by its g' 't southern fork, the Snake, in many < Inspects a greater stream than even the Columbia itself. The Snake is one of the wonderful rivers of the West. It derives its name from its extremely tortuous course. It carries a sufficient volume of water to float steamers i ,000 miles or more from its mouth, but owing to num- erous obstructions to navigation it is not practicable to continue navigation above Lewiston, Idaho. Steamers have plied on this stream, however, to within 150 miles of Great Salt Lake, and even to- day parts of the river are navigated regu- larly for a considerable distance east of Huntington, a station near the boundary line between Oregon and Idaho. The aggregate appropriations by the government for the improvement of the Snake and Upper Columbia rivers have been 1271,000, of which amount 1162,965 was expended prior to June, 1893. By the terms of the river and harbor bill of July, 1892, the upper limits of work under this head were extended from Lewiston, Idaho, to Asotin, Wash., a distance of seven miles. The Snake is now regularly navigated between Riparia, on the Washington division of the Union Pacific railroad, and Lewiston, Idaho, a distance of 77 miles. For the fiscal year ending June i, 1893, the three steamers plying on this route carried 19,364 tons of freight, the estimated value of which was $605,910. ^,;__ The Snake is one of the longest of Western rivers. It rises among the wonderful scenic country of the Yel- lowstone National Park. It winds among the hills and plains of Idaho for nearly 800 miles. T\venty-five miles from Shoshone, a station on the line of the Union Pacific railrotxd, the river forms Shoshone falls, next to Niagara the most imposing waterfall in America. Before entering Washington and emptying into the Columbia, the Snake separates a part of Idaho from Oregon, being the boundary line between these two states for this distance. The Columbia and Snake rivers form a continuous line of navigable water from Celilo, at the head of the dalles, to Lewiston, Idaho. The only part of this stretch of river now navi- gated, however, is the Snake from Riparia to Lewiston, a distance of 77 miles. The View on Aurow L»ke, Columbia River. 'mm -*"■";", *T!i5St!(r<3r;:.. CLARK9 Fork, Columbia River. ~t: .^ ■'\M ■'. ,! ^m ■■■■ t^T.'' ■ ■' ■ ■. f.r i 1; ,:.'. ' ;■ T 28 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. • H ii I 1 I! ! II i -Ii WATER Power, Spokane, Wash. Snake, at certain stages of water, is navigable for 300 miles above its junction with the Columbia and for 200 miles in the heart of Idaho. The Salmon , Boise, Payette, Weiser and Wood rivers drain Central and Southern Idaho. All these streams flow into the Snake from the north. The Clearwater, a blue mountain stream rising in the Bitter Root Mountains and navigable for a few miles from its mouth, joins the Snake at Lewiston. The Powder and Grand Ronde rivers, swift flowing streams, watering large areas of fertile valley lands lying in Oregon, contribute their waters to the Snake as it winds its way along the Oregon boundary. Just as the Snake strikes the boundary line it receives the waters of the Malheur river which, rising in Nevada, flows northward for a distance of 500 miles, watering along its course an important section of country. When boats shall be able to run from Portland to Celilo, the Columbia and Snake rivers will furnish a most important system of water communication with the interior. This water course will furnish an outlet for the great grain districts of East- ern Oregon, Washington and Idaho. The Columbia, after it is joined by the vSnake, receives the waters of the Walla Walla, Umatilla, John Day and Des Chutes rivers, as well as the waters of several smaller streams. Of the numerous small rivers which empty into the Columbia be- tween the mouth of the Willamette river and tl'p '^c-a, and the most important, is the Cowlitz. In the early history of Washington, the course of the Cowlitz was the route generally followed by people traveling overland between Portland and Paget Sound. The Cowlitz river is navigable for small steamboats for a distance of 50 miles from its mouth. The government has appropriated for its improvement sums aggregating $22,000. Nearly all of this money has been expended in removing sand bars, snags, rocks and other obstructions from the channel of the river. The distance by river from Priest rapids to the ocean is 409 miles. All of this stretch of the river is navigable except a short distance of about 20 miles. At Celilo, 275 miles below Priest rapids and 124 miles east of Portland, commences a series of rapids which are about 14 miles long. A short distance above The Dalles is a gorge of the Columbia called the dalles. The chasm occupies two and one-half miles out of the 14 miles of the course of the river between Celilo and The Dalles. The river above the gorge is from 2,000 to 2,500 feet wide, and at its highest state it even covers a stretch of a mile wide. For two and one- half miles through the gorge, however, the great body of the stream is compressed into a narrow cleft about 130 feet across. During a June freshet the water has been known to rise in this gorge 126 feet. It is expected that Congress will make an appro- priation for the building of a ship railroad around the dalles as this is the easiest way to carry boats over these dangerous rapids. ,^^,„,^ ,„^^„3,. „^^„ ,^„^^ ^^^ „.^^,,. Rivers and Harbors. 29 iction with S2!!,«: Gorge agove The Dalles Columbia River. This improvement is demanded by the interests of a vast country adjacent to the Columbia river above The Dalles, and the maj^nitude of the interests of this section well justifies the expenditure of the small sum necessary for the construction of the ship railroad referred to. About 20 miles below The Dalles the gorge proper of the Cascade mountains through which the Columbia flows, is reached. Thirty miles farther down the stream are the cascades of the Columbia. Here the rivet bed is filled with gigantic boulders and huge mis-shapen stones, and for a distance of six miles here the mighty stream lashes itself into a fury over these obstructions. Con- gress has already appropriated $3,553,403 for the im- provement of the cascades here. The first appropria- tion for this work was made in 1877, about which time work was commenced on the system of canal and locks around these rapids. The work was de- layed from time to time, however, by the lack of money. In July, 1892, and in March, 1893, Congress made appropriations aggregating 11,665,903 for the completion of the improvements at this point. The general scope of these improvements includes a com- plete system of canal and locks and improvements to the stream extending over a distance of four and one- half miles. The fall of the river in this distance is about 45 feet at high water and 36 feet at low water. The principal obstruction to navigation here occurs at the upper end of the reach known as the upper cascades. The project for the improve- ments contemplates that the river shall be improved below the upper cascades by removing boulders and projecting points in the bed and banks so as to give good, navigable water from its lowest up to a 20 foot stage. The fall at the upper cascades is to be overcome by digging a canal 3,coo feet in length across the neck of a low, projecting spur around which the river is forced at the entrance to the gorge, and placing in this a lock and other suitable structures which would permit the pass- age of boats up to a 20 foot stage ; this lock and canal to be so arranged that should the future necessities of commerce so demand, additional structures may be added which will make navigation practicixble here at a much higher stage of the river. The first part of this vast project, that of im- proving the river below the foot of the upper cas- cades is finished. The difference of level between the head and foot of the canal as now established is 15 feet at high water and 24 feet at low water, and the difference in height between high and low water at the foot is 54 feet, and at the head 45 feet. The plan on which work on the canal with its locks and accessions is now being prosecuted has for its object the improvement of the river to a point where it will be navigable here as before stated up to a stage of 20 feet. These improve- ments it is now contemplated will be completed by the end of 1894. This will give an unobstructed ■?ff^ "ov- •;■■!'-•■ -'•- •"■■■■■■ ^■:;ii^^. fe '1 i ^ 9 '). I; V 7 ." I i STEAMER HARVEST QUEEK RUNNINO THE RAPIDS AT THE Cascades of the Columbia River. Tf"^ 80 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. CO-*' Puget Sound. Hood's Canal extends from near the mouth of Admiralty Inlet, from which it is separated by a peninsula comprising Kitsap county, for many miles southward. Seattle and Taconia, the two great seaports of Washington, arc located in indenta- tions of Admiralty Inlet. South of Taconia, and at the extreme inland end of Puget Sound, is Olympia, the state capital. Olympia is located on the shores of Rudd's Inlet, another indentation of the sound. Along the entire course of Admiralty Inlet are numerous fine bays affording safe anchorage for the deepest vessels. These bays are frequented by numerous steamers and sailing vessels, and thousands of craft ph' reg- ularly on the broad bosom of the great channels and inlets forming what is known as Puget Sound. North from the Straits of Fuca, and directly opposite Vancou-or Island, is Bell- ingham Bay, one of the finest harbors of Puget Sound. It is on Bellingham Bay that the prosperous cities of Fairhaven and New Whatcom are located. From above this bay the Gulf of Georgia separates the __ mainland of British Columbia from Van- ,^:_ oouver Island. The northwest navigable :^^. outlet of the Gulf of Georgia is Discovery "'if'fc.^r Passage. This is the route taken by the ;^r¥&=- steamers plying between Seattle, Taconia and Alaska. The distance between Sitka and Tacoma is 1,378 miles. With the excep- iV-3>it> £ ••S-iSISi' Steamboating, Puget Sound. [ i ft 1 1 if 84 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. Columbia River near B'~ tioa of a few miles of the distance between these cwo ports the route lies whclly between islands and the mainland, where the water is as smooth as any river course. Of t':e numerous rivers and small streams which empty into Puget Sound, the largest are the Nisqually, Puyallup, Duwamish, White, Summanish, Snohomish, Sno- quahuie, Stilaguamish, Skagit, »Samish and Nooksack. Steamers ply the waters of all these streams. The largest of these rivers is the Skagit, which is navigable for So miles above its mouth. In enterng the sound it forms an extended delta. This is principall}' composed of tidal marshes, which have been reclaimed by diking, and which now possess an almost fabulous fertility. Near t!ie mouth of the Skagit is that part of Puget Sound known as Sara- toga Passage, which is connected with Padillo Bay by Swinomish Slough. This slough will be made navi- gable for vessels drawing 8 and lo feet of water, and will thus lessen the distance between the Lower Sound ports and Fidalgo ;;sland and Bellingham Bay. The estimated cost ot this improvement is 1 122,000. Of the projected improvements on Puget Sound, the most important is the construction of a ship canal to connect Lakes Union and Washington with Elliott Bay, on which the city of JSeattlc is located. Lake Union lit-s within the city lim- its of Seattle, and covers an area of 905 acres. Lake Washington is a fine body of water immediately east of Seat'le. It is 19 miles long and maintains an average width of about two miles. Its total area is 39 s([uare miles. In places this lake is 600 feet deep. The average depth is about 50 feet. The estimated cost of the canal is $5,000,000. The level of Lake Washington is 31 feet above extreme low tide mark of Puget Sound, and the distance between the part of Lake Washington, which the canal will reach, and l-Ciliott Bay, where it will terminate, is six miles. The peculiar advantage of a fresh water harbor to ocean-going vessels and the ravages of the teredo worm to piling of the wharves situated in the water front of Seattle, are the principal reasons advanced in support of the project of buildiiir the canal. Along the Washington and Oregon coast are several bays, harbors and estuaries wuich are of considerable importance to the shipping interests of the Pacific North west. Grays Harbor and Willapa Harbor (Shoalwater Bay ), are the two inlets from the ocean along the coast of Washington between the Straits of Fuca and the mouth of the Columbia river. Grays Harbor was discovered by Captain Robert Gray in the ship Columbia on May 7, 1792. It is of triangular shape, covering an area of 150 square miles. Its greatest width is 15 miles, and at high tide its bar is covered with 24 feet of water. At its apex it receiver the waters of the Chehalis river. The part of the Chehalis 1 cr which it is possible for boats to navigate IB about 90 miles in length. Coasting vessels now run up the river to Montcsano, a di.stance of T5 miles. The appropriations for the improvement of this stream aggregate $13,000. South of Grays Harbor, from which it is sepa- rated by a narrow strip of land, ia Willapa Harbor, formerly called Shoalwater Bay. Two NoRtHtPN pacific construction work, south bend, wash. PHOTO Br GYLFt. \ ■f Ei Jiivers and Harbors. 85 es whcily course, sound, the iiish, Sno- ; waters of able for So 1. This is hich have possess an ith of the 1 as Sara- II o Bay by nade navi- water, and lie IvOwer ;ham Bay. 1 122,000. jet Sound, jf a ship igton with lecity lim- y of water e width of I feet deep. 1^5,000,000. fct Sound, all reach, itage of a 1 to piling advanced 1 estuaries fie North s from the mouth of ay in the ea of 150 Entrance, yaouin* B»y Ohf.gon. channels witii middle sands between afford entrance to this bay. The bay is fn.ll of shoals and fi. ts and one-half its area is bare at low tide. The fiats, however, are valuable as deposits of oysters. T?ifty thousand sacks 01 these bivalves were .'.hipped in 1S93. Willapa Harbor, despite the numerous flats, si'Totds ample room for the safe passage and anchorage of a large amount of shipping. The Willapa river, wb'oh flows into the bay, is at its mouth one mile wide. This stream is navigable for a dis- tance of 17 miles inland. Rapids prevent ingress of steamers Vjeyoud that point. The appropriations for the improvement of Willapa Harbor aggregate ;?i8,ooo. A few miles south of Willapa Harbor is the entrance to the Columbia river. South from the Columbia, the coast of Ore- gon is unbroken by indentations until Til- lamook Bay is reached. This bay has an average depth of 16 feet at high tide, it is about eight miles wide and is twelve miles long. Five rivers empty into Tillamook Bay. These are the Miami, Kilchcs, Wilson, Trask and Tillamook. The Tillamook bar is considered one of the safest to cross on the Oregon coast. The bay at low tide consists of thret channels sepam'tcd from each other by sand and mud flats. The sum of $20,700 has already been expended in improving the bar and the l)ay of Tilla- mook. South of Tillamook Bay the next hari. or is Yaquiua Bay, into which flows the river of the same name. This harbor, like tiie others on the Washington and Oregon coast, was impaired by rocks, shifting sands a.nd other obstructions to easy navigation. The improvements already made here by ti:c government have resulted in increasing the depth of water over the bar at the entrance from a depth of 7 feet to 15 feet at low tide. Congress has appropriated f55<>,Gou for improving this harbor. The best harbor on the Oregon coast south of the Columbia river is Coos Baj'. This is a latge body of water with a verj' irregular shore line. Extensive improve- ments have been made here, the appropriations already made for this work having aggregated 1338,750. It is estimated by the United Stales engineering department that the cost of improving Coos Bay as approved by the war department will be $2,466,412. The improvement to 3%e^"^ '^^ this harbor consists principally of jetties which have the effect of keeping the channel over the bar from changing its position and to divert the great volume of water • flowing out of the harbor into the ocean to narrow limits. There is now an average depth of 18 feet of water at low tide over the Coos Bay bar. The Pacific Northwest contains many lakes, some of which are unexcelled in the beauty and grandeur of their surroundings. In this article only the large, navi- gable lakes of this section will be mentioned. In .seoarate articles of ' ' The Hand- book," however, which treat of different sections of the Northwest, the lakes of these respective Realities are fully described. The most bcuv.«^iful of the many lakes of the Northwest is Chelan, lying just beyond the Columbia river in Okanogan county, in Eastern Washington. This lake extends for a distance of 70 miles ..il.-A|.'fij*j.5'#&%4.. Entrance to coos Bay, OhecjOn. P\ m ' ^ ' Si y, * ■ 36 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. into the very heart of the Cascade Mountains. It is navigable for its entire length. It is fully described in a separate article of "The Handbook." Kootenay Lake, already mentioned in this article under the head of West Kootenay, is a romantic Alpine sheet of water, and along its mountainous shores are numerous mining camps. A line of boats ::lies between the different settlements on this lake, and up the Kootenay river to Bonner's Ferry, Idaho. Lying in the center of a beautiful and fertile valley of the same name in Montana is the Great Flathead Lake. Steamers ply on this lake between its southern and northern shores. Nestling among the mountains of Northern Idaho is Lake CfEur d'Alene. Across this lake ply steamboats which, with their rail connec- tions, form a continuous route between Missoula, Montana, through the great Cteur d' Alene mining district to Spokane. This line is known as the Coeur d'Alene branch of the Northern Pacific railroad. The C(]eur d'Alene and St. Joe rivers flow into this lake. Both of these streams are navigable. The outlet of the lake is the Spokane river, which joins the Columbia many miles to the westward. On the line of the Northern Pacific railroad, in the Hitter Root Mountains, is Lake Pend d'Oreille, sparkling in its setting of castellated hills. Lake Pend d'Oreill-^ is one of the great lakes of Idaho, and it h one of the most attractive bodies of fre-^'a water of the Northwest. In Southeastern Oregon are a series of lakes which hav ki! to this region being called the lake district of the state. Upper and Lower K! ■;, '' i Lakes here are jointly about 60 miles long. The Lower Klamath Lake c.s.tendb ici'f^^ the boundary line into California. Lying partly in Lake county, <^)regon, anu Northern California is the Great Goose Lake. It is 50 miles long and from S to 15 miles wide. Its depth is from 12 to 40 feet. Abert, Warner, Summer and Silver Lakes in the county are all fine bodies of water, teeming with fish, and lying in the midst of charunng scenery. In Harney county, Oregon, is Malheur Lake, a large and deep body of water. In different parts of the Northwest are innumerable other lakes, all of which, as before mentioned, are fully described in subsequent articles of "The Handbook." CflATER Lake, Klamath Co., Oregon. Jtiill roads of the ?>{ or th west. —Per- haps the j^reatcst agent in the enlightenment and civilization of any people is the railroad. No country without the nid of the railroad is in close touch with the thought and action of the higher civili/ed centers. The telegraph does much as a national educator, but the rail- road, affording rapid and frequent means of trans- portation between points widely separated frv.m each other, offers such excellent opportunities for conveying intelligence over long distances. ^^' I I % "it '5 THE Oldest Steamer on Pacific Coast. Railroads of the Northwest, 37 Jtf--^ ?^ r .> iii:Mi'uiiiriiijii(iUU;:!r«!:is)i9i.i iii!ii:iii!iMi?;iSais''^s! . 1 'ffiiiWpL Rooster rock -Columbia River. as well as between the juformation contained in both the standard publications of the country and in personal letters, that its importance to any new section of country cannot be over-estimated. Practically all the solid advancement made in the Pacific Northwest has been accomplished since the tracks of the transcontinental lines first reached tide water on the Pacific coast, and it is to the perfection of the railroad systems of the North wccL that this part of the United States has the most to look to for its future advancement. The railroad has been an essential factor in the growth of the states of Oregon and Washington. Before the iron horse reached the coast the maritime ports of these states recieved their freight from San Francisco pnJ the Kast by sail and steamers. The railroad was needed to furnish more rapid and direct means of com- municating with the East than had been afforded by the water transportation lines. No railroad could reach the West, however, without being brought intr- direct com- petition for its freight traffic with the n mierous lines of steamers and fast sailing vessels plying between Oregon and Washington and all ports of the coast, Northwestern States and all parts of the Orient. The water lines have given the peo- ple of the Northwest the benefit of competition, which has placed the freight charges of the transcontinental railroads on a most reasonable basis, and it has been largely due to these low freight rates that the Northwest has made such marvelous advancc- n\ent duriniT the past ten years. The rail and water lines of transportation in the Northwest are so closclj' allied thf.c it is necessary to state for the information of the reader that nearly every railroad line reaching this section has direct connections with lines of boats plying tlie waters of Puget Sound, the Columbia river and its tributaries and the Pacific oce m. The railroade, v.'ith their water connections, form a net work of transportation lines that cover all the best parts of tht Northwest, and the railroads, through their connec- tions here with ocean steamers for nearly all the ports of ihc world, afford a means of rapid communication with New York and the Orient that is oi the utmost import- ance to the commercial intciests of the United States. Prior to 1880 Oregon and Washington practically were without railroads. A few short lines of road had been built in the Northwest before that time, but, like the Oregon & California extending south from Portland through the Willamette valley for a distance of 200 miles, these roads were merely local in their nature and they were but uncompleted parts of what have since l)een developed into great railroad systems. Traffic between this coast and the East was then handled by steamer to San Francisco where connection was made with the Central and Union Pacific. The MuUaii road, a ON COLUMBIA RIVER. auious military highway running from Walla Walla on i\ ■(^Ti^DoMt;^ ,' 1 I Hi 3 8 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. I I ] P! i H! ^il -SwIJIt - D Castle Rock-cdlumbia River. the west to Fort Benton at the head of navigation on the Missouri river, on the east, was the only overland route followed by traffic from the Northwest to the East. Thousands of travelers passed over this road in the 6o'sand 70's in canvas-covered wagons. Most of the early sf ctlers in Oregon reached this state by way of Salt Lake City, having crossed the plains to that point, where they left the California trail, reaching Oregon by following the course of the Snake river to its junction with the Columbia near Wallulu, from whence they cam'* by water down this noble stream and up the Willamette to Portland. From the Wil- lamette valley, the earliest settled part of the state, settlers drifted north to the country bordering on Puget Sound. For years before the comingof the railroad, long teams of wagons drawn by oxen and laden with supplies regularly left the large distributing centers along the coast for the smaller settlements of the interior. Nearly all articles of commerce not produced in the Northwest, and consumed here, were brought by sailing vessel around Cape Horn. A dependence on this means of securing supplies from the East often caused priva- tions among the early settlers of the country. The failure of a ship laden with pro- visions often sent staple articles of consumption up to faljulous prices. While the Northwest is a country of many varied resources, almost everything required for the support of man now being raised here in abundance, the early settlers of this region placed a dependence upon the arrival of a provision-laden ship that often caused them trouble. Once in *he early history of Seattle the failure of a ship to reach the Sound in its accustomed cime, reduced the inhabitants to sore extremities. But one barrel of pork remained in the city to feed the people. This was anchored on the beach in front of the hamlet. One morning it was missing, having evidently floated out on a very high tide. This was a public calamity at the time and the entire popu- lation gathered around the gaping hole the barrel had occupied, bewailing their loss. On the following Sunday the single preacher who looked after the spiritual welfare of the settlement, delivered an eloquent sermon on the bad influence of a high tide on salt pork and the uncertainty of placing implicit confidence in man's ability alone to care for man's everyday wants. No man who was willing to " hustle," as they say in the West, ever went hungry in either Oregon or Washington, but the dependence on sailing vessels for provisions that could be produced to better advantage here soon taught the people a lesson, and when the railroad did finally reach the states of Ore- gon ar. Washington it found a country well settled and in many places highly culti- vated. It was the fuller development of the Northwest, made before the advent of the iron horse, that has resulted in the rapid advancement of this section during the past few years which has made it one of the most promising parts of the United States. The first railroad built in Oregon was, at the time of its conception, an indefinite and apparently impracticable scheme fostered by a few men of the adventurous type. These men, with Simon G. Elliot at their head, formed themselves into a combination which they named the California & Columbia River Railroad Company. They surveyed a route from Portland south through the Wil- lamette valley to the Siskiyou Mountains. The expenses ■ ^1^ , WMR9|m^ M ^^^ vr Castlf Rock, Columbia River. A NEAR view. Railroads of the Northwest. 39 Oneont* f*lls. Columbia River, of this preliminary survey were principally borne by people along the line of the pro- posed road. The surveyors in charge of Colonel Charles Barry reached Portland in September, 1864. They hadpraci.."?ally surveyed the entire route from the Sacramento river north to Portland. Using thio .urvey as .1 basis of operations, the promoters of the railroad agitated the matter of building a road over its course. The project was brought before the Oregon vState Legislature and Congress was memorialized by that body to authorize the construction of the road. In 1866 a bill passed Congress authoriziug the formation of two companies, one in California and one in Oregon, to construct a continuous line of railroad from Portland on the north, south to Marysville, Cal. This enabling act also contained a clause granting the company building the road a subsidy of 7,000,000 acres of government land. Owing to the ambiguous provisions of the bill there was consider- able misunderstanding and ill-feeling engendered among the different members of the company when the work of constructing the road "ad been commenced. This misunderstanding was caused by th;-" fact that the Willamette valley is settled on both sides of the Willamette river which flows through it. Each side of the river was well settled, and when the time for building the road had arrived, the people on both sides of the river demanded that the proposed roa i should aiTord them the direct rail communication with Portland to which they felt they were entitled. This dissen- sion finally resulted in the formation of two companies for bu'Miug a road south through the valley. One of these companies was for the East Side and the other was clamoring for the rights of the West Side, and both demanded the government sub- sidy. The two roads were built, however, the one on the East Side finally reaching Ashland, in the Rogue River valley, and the other, after long delays, reac'^'ng Cor- vallis, about 100 miles south of Portland. The East Side road is now the direct all- rail route between Portland and San Francisco, while the West Side line has never been extended beyond Corvallis. The East Side company first completed its line, and having kept within the time-limit allowed by the Act of Congress, earned the valuable land grant for which both companies had been competing. Both of these lines and their numerous branches subsequently became merged into the great Southern Pacific system, under a long-time lease, and they are now all operated under the direct control of the Southern Pacific Company. The roads controlled by the Southern Pacific in Oregon are the fol- lowing : the East Side main line, extending from Portland south to Ash- land, a distance of 340 miles. A few miles the other side of Ashland connection is made by this line with the California end. A branch of 13 miles in length leaves the East Side road at Alba nj', 80 miles south of Portland. This road runs east to Lebanon, cro-aing the Woodburn- Springfield branch at Lebanon Junction, nine miles east of Albany. Another branch of the East Side road is known as the Woodburn-Springfield line. This leaves the main line at Woodburn, 35 miles south of Portland, and runs south through the valley cast of and parallel to the main line as far as Natron, 93 miles. Horsetail Falls. Columbia Riven. li V'i'AV 't}: ■■fi*r-i|i- ■'^: I • i Multnomah Falls. Columbia River, 40 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. The West Side division of the Southern Pacific runs from Port- land to Corvallis, a distance of 97 miles. The Portland and Yamhill and Oregonian division of the West Side road is 80 miles long by its through line. This road runs south through the west part of the Willamette valley from Portland, parallel- ing and crossing the main West Side road, to Airlie. A branch leaves this road at Sheridan Junction for Sheridan. This branch is about seven miles long. The Portland and Yamhill and Oregonian division was formerly a narrow-gauge. It has since been made a standard-gauge from Portland to Dundee, a distance of 29 miles. From Dundee south the road is still ops;- raled as a narrow-gauge. The old rail has been left on the road from Dundee to Portland, and this part of the road can be operated either as a narrow or standard-gauge. The first through train to San Francisco from Portland was run over the East Side division Decembet 16, 1887. All the lines of the Southern Pacific in Oregon pass through the Willamette valley, famous for the fertility of its soil, the diversity of its resources and for its charming river and mountain scenery. The through line to San Francisco crosses the Siskiyou Mountains, and in its course south winds along the foothills of F . vShasta, one of the loftiest peaks of the West. It is along this part of the line that some of the grandest views of the coast can be seen. The con- struction of this line through the Siskiyou Mountains was considered one of the most remarkable railroad engineering achievements in the history of the United States. The road for the entire distance between Portland and San Francisco is well and sub- stantially built, and this forms one of the most important railroad systems of the west. In 1892 the local shipments of wheat over the Southern Paci- 1 fie lines in Oregon aggregated 62,613 tons During the same year I these lines hauled 16,523 tons of other grains. The flourshipments over the lines in 1892 amounted to 30,442, tons and they-hau.od during the same time 8,500 tons of feed and millstuffs. During the same year the roads carried 44,000 tons of lumber, 2,800 tons of green fruit, 4,500 tons of vegetables and io,6(xj tons of livestock. The Union Pacific system in Oregon and Washington is an amalgamation of the Oregon Short Line and the lines of theOregon Railway and Navigation Company. The Union Pacific system which reaches Oregon extends from Granger in Wyoming, to Portland, a distance of 945 miles. The part of this road from Granger to Huntington, a distance of 541 miles, is known as the Oregon Short Line From Huntington to Portland the Union Pacific runs over the old track of the Oregon Railway and Navi- gation company. The distance from Huntington to Portland is 404 miles. The Union Pacific system in Oregon now comprises what is known as the Pacific division of this road. It has a total trackage of 523 miles. In connection with the Pacific system the company operates a fleet of fine ocean steamers between Portland and San Francisco and also a perfectly equipped line of river steamers on the Columbia and Willamette rivers, with headquarters at Portland. For 187 miles of the distance iATOUHELLE FALLS. Columbia River. Railroads of the Northwest. 41 IS from Port- 'ortland and e road is 80 )Uth through ind, parallel- i. A branch idan. This and Yamhill ige. It has Dundee, a 1 is still opc- left on the he road can m Portland 1887. All ass through its soil, the river and ;isco crosses nuds along > along this . The cou- of the most ited States, ill and sub- >f the west, thorn Paci- ; same year ■shipments ley -hau.od s. During 2,800 tons livestock, gton is an theOregon tic system 'oming, to road from vn as the he Union snd Navi- 'ortlaud is comprises las a total ic system and San Columbia ? distance Bridal Veil falls Columbia River. between Portland and Huntington the line of the Union Pacific follows along the course of the Columbia with the exception of 20 miles at the Portland end of the road. Between The Dalles and Portland, a distance of 88 miles, this route affords sonic of the grandest and most picturesque bits of scenery on the continent. Twenty miles below The Dalles the Columbia river enters the great gorge of the Cascade Mountains. It is here that the works of nature have taken many fantastic forms. From this point to Portland there is spread before the traveler a panorama of indescribable grandeur. The Columbia river is noted for its scenic effects, and the line of the Union Pacific follows the river for its entire course through the great chain of the Cascade Mountains. Branches of the Union Pacific in Oregon leave the main line at Arlington 142 miles east of Portland and run to Hepp- ner, a distance of 45 miles, and another branch leaves the main line at La Grande, 305 miles east of Portland, and runs to Klgin, 20 miles distant. Still another branch runs from Umatilla, 187 mile? east of Portland, to "Walla Walla, in Washington, a distance of 58 miles. Under the head of railroads in Washington will be found a complete list of the mileage of the Union Pacific in that state. The Union Pacific taps the most fertile and productive part of Eastern Wash- ington. It annually carries to Portland millions of bushels of wheat for foreign shipment. The average grain receipts of this road during the harvest season run from 125 to 200 cars a day. It is estimated that the Union Pacific carried 8,000,000 bushels of wheat from the interior to tide water at Portland in 1892. The lumber shipments from Oregon over this line during times when business is in its normal condition average about 25 cars a day. The company's extensive shops, located in the suburban part of Portland known as Albina, have a payroll of $40,000 a month. The company also maintains large shops at La Grande in which 60 men are employed, and shops at all tlie terminal divisions of the road in Oregon. The Northern Pacific was the first transcontinental road to run its cars into Portland. Through the instrumentality of Henry Vil- lard, the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company was formed for the purpose of building a line of railroad along the Columbia river to connect with the main line of the Northern Pacific at Wallula Junction, 216 miles east of Portland. In 1883 connec- tion was made between these two roads. At that time Henry Vil- lard was at the head of the Northern Pacific, Oregon Railway & Navigation Company and the Oregon & California lines, extend- ing south through the Willamette valley from Portland, and close connection was made between all of these lines. Mr. Villard was unable to carry his great scheme of uniting all the great railroads of the Northwest to a successful termination, and shortly after the completion of the Northern Pacific, and after the expend- iture of vast sums of money to perfect the great system, Henry N'illard experienced his first great downfall. This crash was precip- itated by a period of general depression in business. This rj; ■'I I '1 1 ; \ s 'J 11 1^,1 PACE Creek falls. Columbia River. i,' T 42 The Oregonian's Handbook at the Pacific Northwest. i resulted in the disintegration of all the lines of road which Henry Villard had labored so hard to hold together. The Northern Pacific, through a traffic arrange- ment with the Union Pacific, continued to run its through trains into Portland by the Columbia river route until 1888, when it completed the construction of its direct line to Puget Sound over the Cascade Mountains. The Northern now runs its trains between St. Paul and Portland by way of Tacoma, the through passenger trains over this line running direct between these two points with a change of engines only at the different terminal divisions along the road. The road enters Oregon at Goble, a point on the south bank of the Columbia river opposite Kalama. Connection between Goble and Kalama is made by means of an immense iron ferry, which carries the fully loaded trains over the river here. The distance between Portland and Goble is 39 miles. Reference to the Washing- ton part of the present article should be had for complete data of the mileage of the Northern Pacific in that state. • ScF.NE, Oregon Pacific Railroad, Oregon. The Oregon Pacific railroad extends from Yaquina Bay, an indentation of the coast, about 100 miles south of the entrance to the ColumVjia river, through Corvallis and Albany into the heart of the Cascade Mountains. It runs across the entire length of the rich Willamette valley from west to east. The end of the track in the Cascade Mountains is 3,500 feet above sea level. All along this line are charming bits of scenery, and it traverses the best portion of the state. The total length of the completed road is 142 miles. At Corvallis, 72 miles east of the ocean terminus at Yacjuina, the road connects with the West Side division of the Southern Pacific. At Albany, 11 miles east of Corvallis, the road crosses the tracks of the main line of the Southern Pacific. Connecting with the Oregon Pacific at Yaquina Bay is a line of fast steamers which carry passengers and freight from this road to San Francisco. The completion of the Oregon Pacific between Yaquina Bay and the Willamette Val- ley hns been of great benefit to the residents of the latter section in the low rates it has afforded on freight from San Prancisco for the valley points reached by this line, and also on the wheat shipments from these valley points to San I'rancisco. The road has been badly managed, however, and it has been in financial difficulties for years, and what its ulti- mate outcome will be has puzzled many of the men who were supposed to know the most about its affairs. The resi- den,ts along its course have hopes that it will some day be extended across the Cascade Mountains to an Eiasteru con- necti-^n, but at the present writing these hopes give no promise of an early fulfillment. The Coos Bay, Roseburg & Eastern railroad, now un- der construction between Marshfield and Roseburg, fol- lows closely along the line of .r present stage road through the pass of the Coast range of mountains. The part of this road between Marshfield and Coquillc City, a distance of 25 miles, is now completed, and trains are Scene along Oregon Pacific Railroad. Railroads of the Northwest. 43 Bridal Veil Bluffs Columbia River. running over the road. The road-bed is graded between Coquille City and Myrtle Point. It was the financial panic of 1893, alone, that prevented the completion of this road through to Roseburg during the past year. A short line of railroad, six miles in length, runs from Jacksonville, in Southern Oregon, to Medford, a station on the main line of the Southern Pacific. This line is owned by Portland capital principally. It is operated under the name of the Rogue River Valley Railway Company. A short line of railroad runs from Astoria south, along the coast, to Clatsop Beach points. This road is fully described in connection with the Astoria article. Over 40 years ago, in the Senate of the United States, Thomas H. Benton, of Mis- souri, pointed his prophetic finger to the west and said, "There is the east; there is India. The road I propose is necessary to us, and now. The title to Oregon (then including what is now Washington) is settled, and a government established. Cali- fornia is acquired, people are there and a government must follow. We own the country frgm sea to sea, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, upon a breadth equal to the length of the Mississippi, and embracing the whole temperate zone. We can run a road through and through the whole distance, under our flag and under our laws. An American road to India through the heart of our country vsill revive, upon its line, all the wonders of which we have read, and eclipse them. The western wilderness, from the Pacific to the Mississippi, will start into new life at its touch. Let us act up to the greatness of the occasion, and show ourselves worthy the extraordinary circum- stances in which we are placed by securing, while we can, an American road to India, central and national, for ourselves and our posterity, now and hereafter, for thousands of years to come." The road glowingly portrayed by Benton, nearlj' half a century ago, has been built. It is the Northern Pacific, and it ran its first through passenger train across the present great and prosperous state of Washington in 1883. Henry Villard, then the ruling genius in the management of the road, elaborated and consummated a scheme which involved the construction of the Northern Pacific, the lines of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, and the extension of the lines of road in the Willamette valley. The downfall of Villard and the collapse of his great undertaking has been previously mentioned in this article. In 1888, the Northern completed its main line to Puget Sound at Tacoma. In the history of railroad building and in the growth of permanent settlements, never before was there witnessed the activity that followed the completion of the Cascade division in the country it crossed. Villages sprang up on Puget Sound and in Eastern Washington in a week ; they rapidly grew into towns and, within two years, developed into large and prosperous centers of population. In the short period of two years, Spokane, Seattle and Tacoma grew from struggling and unstable settlements to cities of over 25,000 inhabitants each. Oneonta Bluffs-Columdia Riveh. 1'' 'it' l.'^i ' I ■J t' •■ I I li 64 The Orcsonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. Log Driving in Oregon. heavier, the average quantity of timber to the acre in this part of the state being 18,894 feet. In t... ■ division of the state there is timberto the extent pf 152,683,340,000 feet, covering an area of 3,081,000 acres. This great body of timber has a present vahie of over 1150,000,000, or an average of 33 cents per 1,000 feet. Curry county, bordering on the ocean, in the ex- treme southwestern corner of Oregon, has the heaviest growth of timber in the state. The tim- ber in this county scales 21,429 feet to the acre. The largest and most extensive forest growth is found in Tillamook countj', this county containing 22,092,000,000 feet of timber. Lane, Crook, Benton and Curry counties rank next in the extent of their forest wealth in the order named. Each of these counties contains over 15,000,000,000 feet of timber. The kinds of timber found in Oregon are red fir, yellow fir, white fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, white pine, bull pine, black pine, pitch pine, Alaska pine, spruce, cedar, larch, tamarack, juniper, birch, oak, yew, Cottonwood, ash, maple, alder, willow, elm, mountain mahogany, myrtle, dogwood, white cedar, chincapin, balm and cherry. On the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains pine predominates, while on the west- tern side fir is the leading wood. The forests of Minnesota and Wisconsin, which now furnish two-thirds of the lumber consumed in the East, are rapidly being depleted, and it is a question of but a few years in the future, at most, when the United States nmst depend for the greater part of its lumber supply from the virgin forests of the Pacific Northwest. When Oregon and Washington lumber becomes a staple article of commerce in the Eastern market, as it must become in time, the lumber interests of this part of the West will become one of the greatest in magnitude of any on the coast. In the forests of Oregon are found gigantic fir and cedar trees from 6 to 19 feet in diameter. In comparison to these giants of the forest the largest trees of the East are but pigmies. In this connection, it will be interesting to compare the size of Eastern timber with that found in the iw West. In Wisconsin, for instance, the average log scales about 127 feet, while in Oregon the average scale per log is 1,300 feet. In tlie latter state, however, many long logs have been cut which scaled from 8,000 to ii,aoo feet. There is a great difference too in the diameter of the Eastern and Western timber. Logs, five and seven feet in diameter, are found in every mill pond of Oregon and Washington. Many of these logs are so large, even, that before they can be sawed it be- comes necessary to split them with dynamite, and this, too, when the saws in the Western mills are the largest made in the world. The most abundant and valuable timber found in this great forest is the family of fir, or Douglas pine. The fir tree grows to immense proportions. Trees of 250 to Logging Team, Coos River, Oregon. Jilu Timber Resources of the Pacific Northwest. -■)•) Timber felling, Oregon ;cxD feet in height are not at all uncommon. This permits the cutting of long-length tinibar for bridge and other use, which cannot be obtained from the forests of any other part of the world. The timber of the Douglas ur is heavy, strong and firm. It is unsL:rpasscd for the frame- work of ships, bridges or cars. For gimeral building pur- ])oses it is conceded to be the best tiu'ber in the world. I-'ir lumber is now extensively used in ])lace of oak, it being stronger, easier to handle, taking nails easily and holding them firmly, and it is only a little over one- half as heavy as oak. A recent test of the breaking pres- sure of fir, P. astern oak and Eastern pine, tlic pieces of wood used ha/ing been four feet long and 2x4 inches in dimensions, made the following showing : to break the fir required a test of 4,320 pounds ; Easvern oak, 2,428 pounds, and Eastern pine, 1,610 pounds. The '.alue of the fir for car construction is now recognize '^ throughout the country, and during the pa.U two years the mills of the Northwest have shipped large quantities of this tim- ber to the Eastern manufacturing centers. The merchantable fir of Oregon and Washington is of three varieties, the red, yellow and white fir. The red fir is found growing in the f^reatest abundance in alti- tudes of not over 600 feet. It is a very thrifty and rapid grower. The fiber is very hard with an equal growth all around the tree. Il is a much more unifoi^^i wood to stand heavy strains than is the timbT which sliows a tendency to develop an undue growth to one side of the tree, as is the case of much of the Eastern timber. The lasting qualities of red fir are fully 50 per cent, more than those of white or yel- low pine, while from actual tests, it has been found that a fir joist 2 x 14 inches will withstand a greater pressure than one 2 '/a ^f 16 of white or yellow pine. These and other tests have demonstrated that red fir is vastly superior to all '>*her timber for bridge build- ing purposes. The yellow fir grows in highei altitudes than does the red fir. It attains its greatest perfection in growth along the base of the foothills of the Cascade range of mountains. The yellow fir is a much softer wood than the red fir, and while it will not stand quite the strain that red fir will submit to, its lasting qualities when exposed to the weather are much better. It is also fflf superior to the red fir for flooring and finishing luml>e.-, and it is much softer to work than the SouUiern pint It is admirably adapted to build- ing purposes and interior finishing work, and is re- ceived with much favor wherever it has been Big Timber, Oregon. iu'roduced The white fir is less valuable than is- either the red or the yellow variety. It is not found in large quantities in the state. It attains a great height, is perfectly m > ti ] m! ;ii. ,j|m.. 56 Tlie Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. I Logging Scene, Oregon. PHOrO. BY PRATSCH A CO. Straight, and has been used principally for piling, for which it is excellently adapted. The manufacture of this magnificent body of timber into lumber and furniture is now one of Oregon's most important industries. Since January, 1844, when Ililer H. Hunt built his rickety and primitive sawmill on the banks of the little stream opposite the present towi of Cathlamet on the Columbia river, OregoT has steadily been a large ex- porter of lumber. The bark Toulon and the brig Chenamus sailed up the Columbia river . in the early 40's and carried away from this pioneer mill the first cargoes of lumber ever shipped out of Oregon. Afterwards other ships visited Oregon. Some of these vessels replaced their weak masts with new ones made of Oregon fir. The beauty and strength of these tapering spars were greatly ad- mired in foreign waters to which these vessels sailed. It soon became known abroad that masts made of Pacific coast fir excelled masts made of any other wood. Today the dock yards at Toulon, France, and the great ship yards of Kugland and Scotland, use Oregon fir for masts in preference to all other woods. The yacht Vigilant, winner of the international race in 1893, has a mast made of this same fir. The fame of this wood as a ship timber is world wide. The value of Oregon's timber, however, is not con- fined to its special adaptability for ship masts, but more especially to its superiority for lumber. It has the strength of oak, with almost the lightness of cedar, it outwears most other woods, and for general building pur- poses it is accepted as the best wood in the world. It is estimated that there is invested in the 269 sawmills, 40 shingle mills and 52 woodworking establishments of Oregon about 1 15,000,000. These industries furnish employment to over 7,000 men, and their annual wage roll is about 13,675,000. The total output of these plants in 1892 was estimated to have been worth $10,049,217. The manufactured product consisted of 608,600,200 feet of lumber, 210,000,000 laths and 162,340,000 shingles. The output of the wood-work- ing establishments consisted principally of sash and doors and was valued at 12,700,000. Timber Resources of Washing- ton. — The forests of the state of Wash- ington, according to estimates computed from the latest and most reliable sources of information, cover 23,588,512 acres. In this timber belt there is now standing ■ at least 410,333,335,000 feet of the finest merchantable timber in the world. At the present stumpage value of 65 cents per thousand feet, the standing timber of Washington is worth today 1266,716,667. The value of stumpage in Washington is exceedingly low when com- pared with rates for stumpage in the older lumber states of the Union. In Minne- A Giant Stump near Aberdeen, Wash Washl is star i Timber Resources of the Paciti: Northwest. 67 Big log, Mount Vernon, wash. sota stunipage is $2.87 per thousand feet ; in Wisconsin stunipage is $3.69 per thousand feet, and in all the Middle States rates forstumpage are largely in excess of those charged in Washington today. It is not unreasonable to suppose that as the timber re- sources of the West are encroached on, the stunipage values in Washington will greatly in- crease, and the present valuation put on the timber still standing in the state must be re- garded as an exceedingly conservative one. The importance of the great timber belt of Washington can be better appreciated when it is stated that this state alone contains 56,873,- cx3o,ooo more feet of standing timber than is found in the forests of all the Eastern and Southern states combined. The heaviest growth of timber in the state is in the counties situated in the northern portion of Western Washington and in those bordering on the Pacific ocean along the western coast. The best timber does not grow directly on the coast, but beginning at a point about one mile distant from shore line, a gradual improvement is noted in the timber, which continues to grow better in quality for several miles toward the interior. At the base of the Cascade range of mountains the timber again suddenly becomes larger and the growth is heavier than it is immediately to the west. It decreases in size as the ascent of the range is made, increasing again as the descent is made on the eastern slope. It is on the eastern side of the mountains and covering tho foothills tliat the best timber of Eastern Washington is found. The great plains of the eastern part of the state are practically treeless. In but few parts of the state, how- ever, is there a lack of sufficient timber for domestic use within easy hauling distance. On account of the easy facilities enjoyed for shipment by both rail and water, nearly all the extensive lumbering operations in Washington r.re now carried on in that part of the state bordering on Puget Sound and the Pacific ocean. On the cast side of the Cas- cade range in the state are 11,616,720 acres of forests which contain in round numbers 106,978,041,000 feet of timber. In the entire state there are only two counties out of the 34 that are without stniding tiniber of some kind. These are the counties of Adams and Franklin both located in the eastern part of the state. These two coun- ties adjoin each other and are exactly similar in their topography and character of soil. The present value of timber still standing in Eastern Washington is $80,427,000, and up to the present time this timber has been utilized almost solely for home con- l:,ii PHOTO BV PRAT3CH A. CO. Timber felling near Aberdeen, Wash. ,1 jni .:M' I 58 The Orej^oninn's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. I ii|i i ) ■ ! ! i i , Mi Log Chute, 1100 Feet Long. PuGET Sound. WEIGHT OF LOG COMING DOWN, a TONS. PHOTO. BY R. SHEANE. sumption. The lumber sawed in the western part of the state, however, has for many years past been shipped in hirge quantities to all parts of the United vStates and exported by the shipload to Europe, South America, the islands of the Pacific Ocean and Australia. Western Washington now contains the largest continuous belt of for- est growth in the United States. This great unbroken and almost impenetrable forest, with its heavy undergrowth and windfall sev- eral feet in thickness, contains hundreds of trees to the acre, many of which arc from 200 to 400 feet high. This forest stretches away from the waters of Pugct Sound for miles eastward, practically to the snow-line of the Cascade Mountains, and between Puget Sound and the ocean to the. west is a belt of timber thousands of miles in extent. Much of this vast forest contains trees so high, and so thick is the growth, that the sun never penetrates to its fastnesses. It is a forest of absolute and continual shade. Every acre of this timber belt contains thousands of feet of the finest timber, a source of wealth that will some day make this one of the richest states in the Union. In some parts of Western Washington the timber is much thicker than it is in others. In Chchalis county, for instance, the forests will average nearly 32,000 feet to the acre, and in the same county are whole townships which will cruise from 6,000,- 000 to 12,000,000 feet to the quarter section. Another in- stance of extraordinary forest growth in the state is in Skagit county, where 16,000,000 feet of merchantable timber to the square mile is considered, by practical lumber men, as a conservative estimate of the forest growth. In cither of the counties named above, or for that matter, in any of the counties of Western Washington, it is not difficult to find cedar trees from 12 to 21 feet in diameter, and from 150 to 375 feet high. The lowest limbs on these great trees are often 100 feet from the ground, One of these giants of the forest will furnish sufficient clear lumber or shingles to fill several standard railroad cars. It is impossible to form any accurate estimate of the different kinds of timber still standing in the state of Wash- ington. There has never been an effort made on the part of those who have cruised over this timber belt to segre- gate the different varieties in their reports. It can be safely stated, however, that fir constitutes about 60 per cent, of the forest growth of the state, while cedar, Washington pine (spruce), Alaska pine (hemlock), pine, ash, maple, alder, Cottonwood, larch and oak fellow in importance in the order named. Growing side by side with the fir is the Washington cedar, which is the next abundant to fir here, and whose timber is second in importance to fir. While this tree be- longs to the same family as the cedar of the Eitstern states, it grows in the forests of Washington very differently from what it docs farther east. Here it is straight from the Timber felling near Chehalis, wash. 11 Timber Resources of the Piicific Northwest. 59 ^a^-^rr,. -:?a'#|gl™''^'^ Locoing Train -Puget Sound. H»tlS, W»8H. ground up, and is of immense size. In height it does not equal the fir, but its average diameter is much greater. The value of Washington cedar lumber has not until recently been fully appreciated, but as its durability, the ease with which it is worked and its beauty when properly finished have become better kijown, the demand for this lumber has greatly increased, and today Washington cedar lumber, as well as cedar shingles from this state, is an important article of commerce in the ivistern states. Shingles made from Washington cedar have attained a world-wide reputation. One of these shingles will last for 50 years, and as the average life of a pine shingle, under the best conditions, is not more than 10 years, it will be seen that the cedar shingle has a great advantage in the market. On the roofs of the cabins occupied by the early pioneers of Washington, from 1846 to 1852, may still be seen shingles as they were first nailed in position, and as sound as the day they were split from the timber. In Western Washington is also found the Alaska cedar. This is a very valuable wood, but the supply here is limited. The only place in the state where it exists in any considerable quantity is in the recesses of the forests along the Olympic range of mountains between Puget Sound and the ocean. This cedar is of a very fine grain, it takes a very beautiful finish, and it is even valuable for the process of wood- engraving. A species of cedar known to the trade as pencil cedar, is also found in the forests of Wai!hington. While not as common as the red cedar of commerce, several tracts of this wood are scattered through the western part of the state, and the forests of this wood will, in time, prove very valuable. Florida is the only other state in the Union '.vhich contains this wood, and the available supply there now is all owned by a single great pencil manufacturer. The existence of this cedar in /Vashington is not generally known at the present time, but it is believed by the lumbermen of the state that this wood Vvill be a staple article of export a fe-.v years hence. The nomencla'.ure of Waslungton's trees is liable to pre e confusing to the ixader who is not familiar with the different varieties of woods growing in the forests of the state. Owing to the great difference existing between woods of the same variety found in Washington and in th^, Kast, shippers of Wash- ington lumber have found it necessai^' to preserve the identity of this lumber by atcaching local names to the several varieties handled. Thus the fir of the Pacific Northwest is known to the Eastern trade as Oregon pine and Douglas fir, spruce is called Washington pine, and hemlock from the states bordering on the North Pacific Ocean as Alaska pine. Washington spruce bears a close resemblance to the Eastern white pine. It is a perfectly odorless wood, is almost milk white, and is equally as soft as white pine. Up to the present time its use has been confined to the manufacture of boxes, store shelving and dairy furniture. Its entire freedom from even the least perceptible odor especially recommends this wood in connection with handling butter or milk. Washington spruce is now receiving attention from Eastern wagon makers with a Logging- Puget Sound, starting log down chute. w ^!P '1 1 + ' ti' U(» The Orcgonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. Loo FROM Chute Striking Water. PUGET SOUNO. view to utilizing this wood largely for the mauufacture of wagon boxes. Spruce is found in large quantities on lands tributary to Grays Harbor, Willapa Harbor (Shoal - water Bay), and the Columbia river. HemlC'Ck, or Alaska pine, is generally found in close proximity to tide water i-i Washington. The value of the hemlock forests of the state has heretofore bee i greatly underestimated by reason of the general, bui erroneous, impression that the hemlock found here is iden- tical with that found along the Atlantic coast, and is, there- fore, much inferior to either the fir, the cedar or the spruce which Washington contains in such abundance. The hem- lock of Washington is the Tiisqa Mertensianaixnd ib entirely distinct from the Tusqa Canadensis, or the common hem- lock of the Rast. The Washington hemlock differs from the Eastern variety in both its botanical and its economi<- properties. It is not generally known that the heml< k forests of Washington contain fully one-fourth of the ^vai' able tan bark of the I'nited States. Pennsylvania .it the present time is the leading state of the Union for the production of hemlock leather. Present statistics show, however, that within the next six years, at the present rate of consumption, the supply of hemlock tan bark in that state will be exhausted. It is perhaps a safe assertion to say that before the expiration of the next ten years tannin, manufactured largely from the hemlock bark of Washington, will be in great demand in both the United States and in Europe. Apart liom the local rcqtiirements, a great and constantly increasing demand exists for hemlock extract all over the United States as well as for export to foreign countries. Germany alone imported 35,000,000 pounds of tanning extracts ill 1892, and Great Britain is one of the largest consumers of tanning extract in the world. A number of tests made by leading and reliable chemists have demonstrated that Washington hemlock is the strongest bark of its kind on the continent, and that it contains a larger percentage of tannin even than the Pennsylvania hemlock bark, which has always, up to the present time, stood the highest in the market. These tests resulted in the establishment of a tannin extract company at South Bend, Washington. These works have a capacity of 150 barrels, or 75,000 pounds a week, and are being very succesefully operated. Other tannin extract works will soon be put in operation in the state, and hemlock from Washington will soon become as staple an article of trade here as is the spruce or the cedar at the present time. The hemlock lumber is very valuable and is especially adapted for fine interior work and ornamentation. It IS not to be compared with the fir in tensile strength or in durability when exposed to the weather, but it can be used for many purposes, and its value is becoming better appreciated with each succeeding year. Of the other woods found in Washington's forests, pine is the most abundant. Yellow pine is a mountain wood as found in this state. It is plenti- ful in Eastern Washington and has all the characteristics of the Southern yellow pine. In the state are also scattered growths of ash, alder, cottonwood, oak, maple, poplar, tamarack, yew aud willow. All these woods differ little, if any, from the same varieties BOOM LOGS, LOWER END OF CHUTE -PUGET SOUND. Timber Resources of the Pacific Xortbwest. (il SET Sound. MOUNTAIN Scenery Near Vientq- Columbia Riveh. found in the Eastern forests. Another Washington wood is madi me, which is found along the coast in paying quantities. It is an exceedingly handsome wood and can he used with profit by wood-workers for various purposes. White birch, a very rare wood, is found in small quantities in Eastern Washington. It has attained but little value, cointncrcially, up to the present time. The last wood found in Washington's forests in sufficient quantities to call for men- lion in the present article is larch. This is a beautiful wood which grows in great abundance in the mountainous districts of the state. The tree attains a height of 150 feet and is from three to six feet in diameter. The wood is used for interior finishing and makes an excellent quality of sash and doors. With all this great wealth of timber only awaiting the axe and the saw to be con- verted into marketable lumber, it is but natural that, dating from the time that the first pioneers settled on the shores of Puget Sound, the people of the state have largely depended on the forests of the state as a means of livelihood, and that lumber is today, as it will always be the leading industry of thestate. With the exception of an occasional hunting or trading trip made by the hardy voyageurs of the Hudson's Bay Company, the forests of Washington remained undisturbed by the foot of the white man until the coming of the pioneer settlers to this part of the state in 1846. In that year the first sawmill in the state was built at Tumwater Falls, on the Dcs Chutes river, in Thurston county, by Captain Simmons. This was a primitive affair, and its market was limited altogether to the local demand. This, however, was the initial stage of the development of an industry that now represents millions of invested capital, and whose trade reaches to nearly all accessible parts of the world. In 1853, Henry L. Yesler built at Seattle the first steam sawmill on the shores of Puget vSound. It would be a difficult matter for those acquainted only with the great and flourishing city of Seattle today, to realize the important part the small sawmill of Henry Yesler's played in the pioneer stage of the city's history. For years follow- ing its establishment it was almost the sole industry of the place, and. it is possible that, through the establishment of this mill here, may be traced the primary cause which determined the subsequent supremacy of Seattle. In the '50's, Yesler's mill was the most important structure of the villagt of Seattle. There all the wage-earners of the place were employed; there the few ships that then vis- ited Puget Sound came for cargoes and landed their freights of produce and merchandise. The mill occupied a long, low, rambling building, and had a capacity of 15,000 feet a day. Later other mills were established at this point and on other ports of the Sound. In 1867-68, Charles Hanson built the big Tacoma mill, which is still one of the leading mills of the latter city. At the time of the establishment of the big mill at the present site of Tacoma, ships called occasionally at the ports of Puget Sound and carried away lumber to San Francisco and Austrulia. Mills began to multiply rapidly on the shores of the Sound and, by 1880, the output of lumber in Washington amounted to 160,176,000 feet a Scene Near mosier-columbia River. T 62 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. HfULiNG Loos Near Seattle. year. INIorc than half of this luuiber found a market in vSan Francisco and foreign ports. No record of the output of the sawmills of WafLlogton was kept in the years following 1880 until 1887. In the latter year the output was 600,000,000 feet, one- third of which was sent out of the state b\ vessel, and a small demand had been created in the East which was supplied by rail ship- ments. By 1890, the number of mills in the state had increased to over 2oa, and tlie output of these mills for that year wa<^ i,ooci,ooo,ooo feet. It was in 1890 that the first large ship- ments of lumber were made from the Washing- ton mills to the Eastern states. Since that time freight rates have discriminated against Washington lumber shipments, but it can be but a few years in the future, at the most, when nearly all the lumber consumifd in v hat are known as the Middle states and those of the Central West will be shipped from the mills of the Pacific Northwest. Nearly one-third of the population of. 'ashington at the present time is depend- ent on the industries of sawing lumber, s]"'ngles and wood-working plants, and a large part of the wealth of the state is derived from this source. The followi>ig sta- tistics will be found interesting as s'rowing the mammoth proportions which the lum- ber industry has assumed in the state during the last 10 years, and it will furnish a basis on which to make hopes for the future of this industry in the Northwest. In 1892 the mills of Washington turned out 1,164,425,880 feet of lurtiber, 436,716,- oix) laths, and 1,883,868,750 shingles. The output of shingles for the year showed an lucre .'se of 957,ckio,ooo over the output of 1891, while the output of 1893, exact figures for which are not oLitaijiable this early in the year, it is expected will show a corres- ponding increase over the output of the year previous. This remarkable increase in a single year was due altogether to the growing popularity of cedar shingles in the East. It is now freely admitted that the Washington red cedar shingle is superior to any shingle in the market, At the present time only about oue-twenty-fifth of the trade of the Union is supplied with Wa.shington shingles. The 6,oco carloads of Washington shingles siiipped East in 1893 represent less than 2,000 actual customers. There are now 50,cx)o lumV)cr firms in the United States and Canada, and conservative shingle men do not believe that thi^ limit of th2 Eastern demand for Washington shingles will l.)e reached until at least one- half of the lumber dealers of the countrj- are handling these shingles. The output of the Washiuj^/.on lumber and shingle mills finds its way to market through the medium of coasV.iug and (oreiga vessels, and by ail to the ISast. The ship- ment of lumber aiul shingles from the state in 1892 was divided as follows : lumber to foreign ports, 105,002,710 feet; lumber to coast ports, 263,666,523 feet; shipments of lumhe- Dy rail, 100, 650, o(X); shingles by rail, 9i3,300,cxx>; shingles by water, 8,608,000. The foreign shipments were made to the ports of I?,urope, As'h, South America and O'^eanica, while the coastwise shipments were made principally to Cali- vW* <*■'': >m&f:. w^hRBHE •' ..T?!'"'"' Tut GnciT Fi.»rMC*t' Uke, Montana, Timber Resources t' the Pacific Northwest. m , ' 'f| LAKE CCEUh D'ALENE fornia and Mexico. A large fleet of sailing vessels is regularly engaged in the export Washington liiniVjer trade, and the harbors at Seattle, Tacouia, Port Blakely an>i other milling centers of the sound contai ■ ships at all seasons of the year and from all parts of the >vorld loading with lumber. The value of the output of the lumber and wood-workiug mills of Washington for 1892 was I19, 000,000. This was subdivided as follows: Lumber, 112,481,543; shin- gles, 12,187,898, and manufactures of wood, 13,512,429. The capital invested in the lumber and wood-working plputs of the state is over $3o,oaj,ooo. These indus- tries give employment to about 12,000 men, and they annually disbur.se in wages over $7,coo,ckxj. There are now in operation in the state 227 sawmills 246 shingle mills, and 73 sash and door factories. The sawmills have an aggregate yearly capacity of 2,970,000,000 feet of lumber, while the shingle nulls of the state turn out annually 3, 7 -'3,000,000 shingles. Owing to the depressed condition of the lumber trade and the unsettled ci.. ^'tion of the foreign market for lumber, the mills of the state did not run to their full capac- ity during the season of 1892-93. The mill men of Washington base great hopes on the completion of the Nicaragua canal to revolutionize the lumber business of the Pacific Northv/^est and cause Washington to take front rank among the great lumbtj- produciug states of the Union. At the present time, owing to the great length of time it requires to ship a cargo of lumber from Washington around Cape Horn, the shipments of lumber from the state to the Atlantic seaboard are neither large in vj worth comes from the Pacific coast. Other foreign nations import lumber in proportionate amounts. This foreign demand, together with the constantly increasing market in the Kastern stntcs for lumber, will, in the near future, create a great demand lor lumber sawed in the mills of the Pacific Northwest. It may be interesting to call the attention of the readers of this article to the mis- leading statements scattered broadcast bj' certain misinformed persons to the effect that the forests of Washington contain sufficient timber to supply the world for loo years in thf future. The facts arc that there is today just about sufiicient timber in these forests to supply the trade now handled by the mills of the northern pine .stales for aboi.t 40 years, and on the entire Pacific coast there is now only sufiicient standing timber to last 70 years at the same rate of consumption. Timber Resoitrces ok 1d.\ho. — The forests of the state of Idaho it is estimated contain 3o,vioo,ax),uot) feet of timber. This is double the amount of timber con- tained today in Minnesota, which now ranks as one of the greate.st lumbering stales of the Union. But little lumber is now manufactured in Idaho, and its forests may be called vast timber preserves for the use of future generations. The most extensive forest growth of the state is in Siioshone and Kootenai counties. Around beautiful Lake Tend d' Oreille, in Idaho, and stretching back from this body of water for miles, is i\ I H T^ »l 64 The Oregonian's Handbook of the Pacific Northwest. t 1 1 ■ \ ] ■ ■ i \ M ,. J Logging in the Cceur o'Alene District. a superb forest, in which gigantic trees lift their heads aloft to a height of over 200 fiet. Nowhere else iu the United States, except iu the Pacific Northwest, can be found such proiiigious amounts of timber to the acre. Covering the granite-ribbed slopes of the C(JL'ur d' Akne mountains, and extending to the shores of L,ake Ccieur d' Alcne, is another vast forest which makes au important addition to Idaho's timber wealth. An enormous amount of timber is also found fringing the numerous streams which wind among the hills of Northern and Central Idaho. The varieties of timber found- in Idaho include pine, spruce, tamarack, oak, mountain mahogany, Juniper, birch, cot- tonwocd, alder and willow. TiMHER RESOURCES OF MONTANA. — Mon- tana's pre-eminence as a mineral-producing state has detracted attention from its other natural resources. About ro,ooo,ooo acres of Montana's mountain lands are covered by fine forests of pine, spruce, cedar and tamarack. It is estimated that these forests contain 75, (.00,000,000 feet of merchantabh> timber. This timber grows upon the rugged slopes of the Rocky Mountains and on detached clusters of moun- tains scattered here and there throughout the state. While Montana exports but little lumber, it takes about ioo,ooo,p' j feet a year to supply the local demand. The greater portion of this lumber is ..sed by the mines of tl;e state. The ;\naconda mine, at Butte, alone uses nearly 15,000,000 feet of lumber a year in timbering. A large quantity of wood is also used as fuel in the great smelters and quartz mills of the state. There are 102 sawmills and shirglc mills in Montana, nearly all of which have u capacity under 10,000 feet a daj-. The largest sawmill in Montana is that of the Blackfoot Milling and Manufacturing Company, at Bonner. This mill has a daily capacity of 240,000 feet. Its yearly out- put is about 32,000,000 feet. TiMHER Resources of Alaska. — Alaska, bordering on the .\rctic ocean, with one end experiencing the cold of almost perpetual winter and the other end of the territory seldom noting a temperature below the freezing point, contains a vast amount of standing timber. It is estimated that one-thirtieth of the entire territory is covered with timber. The timber belt of Alaska contains about 11,160,000 acres. At the low estimate of 6,000 feet of standing timber to the acre, Alaska contains today 66,960,000,0:0 feet. The Yukon river, a wide and deep streatti, flowing from the 10c fields of the north thri)Ugh .-Maska, is fringed for almost its entire length with a dense forest. Along the coast from the southeastern boundary of the territory to Kodiak Island, tncre is a continuous forest, except where n.onntain ranges over 2,000 feet high approach the water. On the islands of the Alexander Archipelago is a heavy growth of yellow cedar, from which a superior class of lumber is manufactured. These for- ests contain great trees six feet in diameter and branchless for sixty feet or more above the ground. The ';imbcr of the southeastern parts of Alaska consists of spruce, hemlock, 3-ellow and red cf.dar, the woods being found in quantity in these forests in the order named above. The forests of the interior of Alaska extend as far Mining in the Pacific Northwest. «5 ^'11 north as the range of mountains, from 50 to 100 miles distant from the coast. These forests contain spruce, hemlock, birch, poplar and other deciduous trees. The principal woods of export of Alaska are Alaska cedar and hemlock, which is known commercially as Alaska pine. The cedar of Alaska is so fine grained that it can be used for wood engraving. It is susceptible of taking a high polish, and is well adapted for the manufacture of furniture and for interior finishing work. There are now 13 sawmills in Alaska. The output of these mills is used for local consumption, the government instructions preventing the shipment of lumber sawed in the territory beyond its limits. It is to these restrictions alone that the present stagnation in the lumber industry of Alaska is due. In 1890 Congress passed an act allowing one person to purchase 160 acres of land in Alaska at the price of f 2.50 an acre. This act only applied to actual settlers on the land purchased. As none of the timber land of the territory has been surveyed, all parties now cutting timber on the government land of Alaska are trespassers. The great inland sea, extending from Alaska to the cities of Puget Sound, affords an easy means of shipping the lumber product of Alaska to an available market, and as soon as the government restrictions governing the export of lumber from the territory are removed, the lumber industry of Alaska will prove to be as great as is this industry today in the states of Oregon and Washington to the south. Lumber Resources of British Columbia. — It is not generally known that British Columbia contains more timber than the two states of Oregon and Washing- ton combined. Of the total 000 acres are classified as that the average amount of 10,000 feet, a very small esti- tains today the enormous Where extensive logging ducted in the province, the more than 15,000 feet to the standing timber in the feet to the acre, British Col- A PnOSPECTOR. area of the province, 85,000,- timber land. Estimating standing timber to the acre is mate, British Columbia con- total of 850,000,000,000 feet, operations have been con- standing timber has scaled acre. If the average of province is as high as 15,000 umbia contains today more timber than is found in the entire territory of the United States. The trees growing in British Columbia are of the same varieties as those found in the forests of Washington. Fir predominates, with cedar second in abundance. The lumber interest of the province at the present time is one of its principal indus- tries. In 1892 the mills of British Columbia turned out 164,877,000 feet of lumber and 126,273,001) cedar shingles. Of the lumber product, 38,897,029 feet were shipped to foreign ports. Like Oregon and Washington, British Columbia finds a market for her lumber in Australia, South America and the Sandwich Islands. In November, 1893, u shipment of fir lumber was made from Victoria to the coast of Africa. Other shipments have been made from the ports of the province to Kngland and parts of the Orient. A considerable part of the lumber manufactured in the province is shipped via the Canadian Pacific railway to the treeless plains of Alberta and Mani- toba and even as far east as Quebec. Like the timber of Washington, that of Brit- ish Columbia is unexcelled for general building purposes and is greatly superior to the timber which is cut east of the Rocky Mountains. Mining in tlio Pafiflc Northwest — From the gold-impregnated sands of mountain strcan s and from the bowels of the earth are obtained the precious metals 66 The Orcgonian's Hnn