..^.. ^r^:^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // m %// .%/ fe i^. /. t/j 1.0 LI 1.25 1^ 128 25 2.2 2.0 1.8 U ill 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 7i WEST MAIN STREET WEPSTER,N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 'o- .^ ^f^ <^ >y signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole y signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis A des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le documer>* est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seul cliche, il est filmA A partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. »rrata to pelure, m d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 W^i" *•■■■."■ ; !■ ;,"■, ■ ^■^■:;-"V' »,:■■ !'i'-;,> ': -.' <■ > '">■■ ;>'vV'^**' Mi il »"Wiwt ■«3'ft?*4»*.*w(*^: -mi-V*— '*' V --ij -' S''-T"''™^X«^**'^il»»« LIFE ON THE PLAINS OF THE PACIFIC. OREGON: an ;> 1 < HISTORY, CONDITION AND PROSPECTS oomjjima a DKacatmam or tbb QEOORAPHY, CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. WITH PERSONAL ADVENTURES AMONG THE INDIANS oimrao A nuiDEtKi* of iWc Avmou ttur xta PLAINS BORDERING THE FAGIFIP THE OHEOOiT MISSION: KII8ti.40raa BXTBITDKO MOTSa OV A VOYAGE AROUND THE WORLD. 4l BY REV. GUSTAVUS HINEa -» ^ 1, NEW YORK: HURST & CO., Publishers, 123 NASSAU STREET, PREFACE. ■ \ Ir tfiifi vtinme does not conicnend itself to the favorable eonuderatioiu 0f the reading public, it will not be owing to any defi^iiency of material m the possession of the author, to enable him to furnish a most interesting and instructive work. Though his opportunities for the acquirement of that kind of knowledge resulting from obserration, and necessary to qualify one to instruct and entertain mankind, during seven years of constant journeyiiigs in various parts of the world, both by sea and land, have been perhaps greater than usually falls to the lot of even authors of bookri cf travel, yet, conscious of his want of the requisite qualifications to array his work in that fascinating drapery necessary to charm the reader at onco into an unqualified approval, the author casts himself upon the publio with all due deference. The principal apology necessary to offer for the publication of this woric, m a desire to connect with entertainment the promotion of a more extensive and particular knowledge of those interesting portions of the world where it has been the privilege of the author to travel, and make his observations. While the world is literally teeming with fictitious pubUcations, here is presented a volume of facts, for' the most of which the author is alone responsible.; and iiK the absence of the tinsel adorning of a glowing and high-sounding style, the truthfulness of what is narrated is the principal merit to which the work is entitled. The " History of the Oregon Mission, " to which the first chapter of the work is devoted, has been drawn from the most reliable sources, and, principally from tho short notes of the late Rev. Jason Loe, and the Journal of the late Cjtus Shepherd, the firsj^ missionary teacher in Oregon. This pirt, the author flatters himself, will supply the Christian publio with a needful desideratum, with respect to the true character of that important Mission, and of the courageous and self-^'snying men who were the first to carry Uie Crospel across the Rork} Mounteins, and to proclaim it along the shores of the Pa< ific Ocean. The Journal, commencing with the departure c* the Missionaries in tlte Ship I^ausanne in the fall of 1839, will introduce thi reader to aU }-^ ^'5iV9 ■IP PREFACE. (hat is interesting relating to tiie largest expedition or the kind that erei ■ailed from an American port. It will acquaint him with "Life on the Ocean Wave," and the different interesting phenomena of the great deep. It will introduce to him the people of other countries, and give hina information with respect to many of their customs, it will present hiin with a glimpse of oriental sceneni', aiid occasionally unfold the beauties and sublimitiea of the mountain landscape. It will conduct him through perils by sea and perils by laud, and perils among the most savage, de- graded and treacherous of the human race. The Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Indian Oeeans; Braiil, Chili, the Sandwich Islands, Oregon, China, the Spantsh Islands, and even Africa herself, have all been laid under contribution to enrich tlie Joarnal ; and from these different fields of observation have been cdtected facts, circum- stances, and incide Its of history, which cannot fail to enlist the attention and excite the interest of the reader, and to induce him to pursue the narrative, until^ witii the author, he shall have cixcumnavigated the globe. The last few Chapters of the book ^re devoted exclusively to the Geography and History of Ihe Oregon Territory. From a residence ef several years in Oregon, connected whh the ftict that he made it a leading object to become informed Arom personal observation, not only with the geography of the country, with its productions ; the soil, climate, sieasonSt monnteins, valleys, prairies, forests, rivers, &c. ; but also willi evety circumstance of importance which has ever transpired in connection with either the civil, political or religious interests of the country, the author oelieves himself to be qualified to present the inquiring pnblie with more correct information regarding that portion of the world, than has hitherto been fnmished frm^ any source. For some of the facts connected with the 'listory of Oregon, the author wouM acknowledge his indebtedness tie the able and interesting Memoirs of Mr. Greenhow, the reeent translater and librarian of the department of State, at Washington. With these remarks, conscious of the aprightness of his intentions, the autlior would now place his offering upon tho public altar; conntiug o» other favor in its behalf than tba: to which the merit ot' hia performaace ia justly entitled. t. « ; ■ .1;.:. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAP. I.— History of the Oregon misaion, frotn its commoncouisnt lo tlie depart ttie of the great icin'iiicciiwut, in ihe fall of 1639, ill tUe ship l.auMnnc. . , I CH\r. II.— Jo-trnal of a »oyage frotn New York to Oro^oii — Time and circuin. Wiiiices oltteiwrture— First evrsmhs— I,«mi look at lite Hi^'ilaiid.x— litiiirtiory ritM -Great dijimas — Scii'^ickncMt imtcsciibiiiile — l-'ounU ilay — Captain SpatildiiiS - First and second officera — Passcnirers in ihe cabin — Cliameier of the cxpmli- lion— First Sabbath at sea— rollcc rcfHlaiiona— A rit:h iruat— Ceiiteaary mcetin? — Jleaults— Ve-ssel ships a sea— Wiuif iiicreuses— Treitiendoux gale— North-easi trade — Description of thp tradfes —Whale — Allowance of water — Porpoise — Vessel— Amusing surprise — Asirononiy— Northern ronstellaiiuns — Mtiselianic clouds— luiGi-ei'titiirS.ibbiith—Liuid ho !— Cape Frio — Lighthouse— Splendid sce- nery—Arrival at liioileJatieiro — Historical sketch— Don Jdin—Brazil indepem- dent— Don Pedro the tirsi— OontpcUed to abdicate- Stale of the country- Foreign residents— ttellgion—City— Buildings— MisBionarios— Slavery- Reflections. . 18 CHAP. HI,— Journal continued — Deparlit re from Rio— Rev. Mr. Spaulding — French ilenl— Violent storm -Flying jib boom carrletl away— Dinner lost— Storm ahaies—Chriatmao— Ileal— Doubling Onpe Horn— Gale nineteen days — Ijnder bai-e poles — ProsptfHty— Sight of land- Brig AiKk'S— Arrival at Valparaiso- Small pox— Danjer-Desciiptiim of the city--It» civil and poliiical condiiioii— Rfiligton—Su|>er8iiiioh, illustrated by aiousfng incidents ~Proies!«ntisnj—Imt)or- tiincti of Valparaiso — Adventures round about the city — Great discrepancy- Appropriate name. . • ill CHAP- ly.— Jnumal continued- Raising anchor— View of the Andes— Brig— Paci- tic ocean rightly named- t;apture of a sea monster— Oilticulty among the sailors -^pokt;.4 by a whaler— Captain Sawyer— Island of Muui~Iiawaii—Oahii— Ho- nolulu— Remarks on the ie|and-^Oahu and its city— Sabbath— Introduction to the royal family— Interview— AnnivBi'Hary of the Ian jifig of misfionaries— Visit to the Pai^ -Battle ground — Kamchnmcha I.— Vv'aiakiki — Valley of Manoah — Source of prosperity- Difflctjity with tho French — Arrogance of Caprain La Place— Inipresstoii upon the Hawaiians. . . , . . . -; . 73 .CHAP, v.— iournal continued — Departure from Honolulu — Slow pmgress — Frcstj breeze — Coast of Oregon— Old pilot — t^aptain delivers up the vesnet'-Crossing tiie i>arful bar— Deep anxiety— Oat^t anchor in Baker's Bay — Uev. Daniel Lee — Chenook Indian*— Clatsops axcetid the river— Fort George— Run atrround — Ditfi- culty of fcicniiding— Arrival ai Vancouver— Meeting called — Missionaries receive their appointments — Sent off to their stations — First encanipmoni in Oregon— ■ Ascendmg the WallaiTictta in canoes — Tutn Water — Portage — Ciiainpueg — Horsebuk ri'.l«— Arrival at tite Mission H.aiion. . . . . . .81 p. , VI CONTENTS. M :.jS. k it CHAP. VI.—E.xp'oiinsr loiir (o iho Um|)(iu«— Preliminaries— Depnrtore—De!ighl- fiil coiiiiiry — Kiicuiiioiiieiii— AmiHiiig iiiciilrni— FDiiliiig rivur — Moiitiiain l,a Ueuclie— I'.llc river — tJiii|H|uaiui'i— Indian flgiu— Krciicliiimn in churgu— Mfj-ting Willi the liidiKiit — Oiil -duel's conlOHHiun — Ilosiile liuliHiis — Uanger ol' g<>)iig nuiuiig tlvMji — KcMilved lo go — Vojaec to ihe ciwiil — Iiiiliuna ucconipuny ub — liiierci^iiiitj cncau)|imem— Iiuliaiia un ilie coasi—Mfciiwg with ihem- SiicecheHol' tim cliif Is— Ucsulis (iliUe meeiing— Talk to Oo(l~S>>iii:iiuile ul our Protectress— WiitcliiDg — PrcseniN— Depart uie — Description ol the couiiiry— Rcitirti to the lorl — Siory ol the frenchiDiiu's wile — l.>aiiger« we l>aediiion resolved upon — Opposed by Dr. McLaughlin — Departure — A stjuall — Ascent of the Colum'M!: — Mount Hood— Romantic scei>cry— Sabbath enc»m(>mcnt— Reflections — KemarKable rocks— Cascade.s— flow formed — Indian tradition ^onlirnued— L-i Dallas— Cannsissa—Negoiiation— Do Shutes— John Day— Sabbath Rellections — Arrival at Dr. Whitman's — Interview with the Kayuse chiefs -Excursion — Adv<;nture of Mr. Perkin.'?— Party proceeds— Sna If e river— Red wolf— I^perai — Accident — Grotesque exhibition — Temperance training — Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Spaulding — Return to Dr. Whitman's — Interesting negotiation — Closing feast — Homeward — Story of the Walia- Walla chief— Peter Ogden— Arrival home. CHAP. X. — Homeward bound — Departure from Oregon — Lost in a fog — Vancou- ver — Unexpected meeting — Night running — Labor lost— Dreary encampment — Sitbbaih — Pillar Rock— Fort George — Clatsop plains — A whale — Enteriainnient — Embarkation — Detention — Great cave — Weigh anchor — Remarkable escape from shipwwreck — Driven back — Second trial successful — Voyage— Mani — Night dangor— Arrival at Oahu— Shipping— English fleet — News from home — ilov. Juson Leo — "Hoa Tita"— Artecting separation — Admiral Thomas — Great alarm — Detention — How improved 143 1^3 f;HAP. XI — View of the Sandwich Islands— How formed— Volcano— Coral reefii — Names of Islands — When discovered — Singular tradition — Cook's death- Population- Previous condition— Long and bloody war— Results- Missionary stalialiCB — Ellects of Missionary labor — Seamen's chaplaincy— Romitniam—Ka- mehnmeha III. — Reforination— Singular custom— School fur young chiefs— Inllu- ence of missionaric!*— the king's cabinet — Important history of two hundred and fe venty-.six days — Increase of cabinet — Paper king — Protection- Conmierce — Whale" flfihery — Productions — Society — Temperance— Destination of the Islands. '207 CHAP. XIL— Return to Oregon — Embarkation -r- Passengers — Horar« Holdcn— 'Phrilling story— The whaleman— Voyage — Arrival iii the Columbia river — Dis- aiirccable navigation — Yearly meeting of llie missionaries — Appointments- Arrival of Rev. George Gang — Reasons for his appointment — Great changes — Mr. Lee— George Abemethy — Powers of the new euperintendent- Special meet- iiij; — Voyage — Lojinea dismifsed ~ Miscellaneous — Transporting sufiplies— CONTLNTS. uru Anwher mccUiig— Oregon InmUute — Finai.Sk* M'h* ti.*». n '•lou^'..; a . clow — Numbtr olnibaioDariot reiiimod— Number r«i.^ik^it.nb i> 'iwkU- !m CHAP XIII.— Final departure nnJ voyage home— Notice of C.iptain Sylvister— Arrangumeiiistn leave— iModeoi ileiiariure- Vancouver again— (^lalxop «'i«iiiii — On biiaril iho brig Chcnamou — Uitnciili navigation- I>ika«cr — Oei iato il.« bay —Fair breeie — F.xit — Fellow Pawengerg — T. J. Hubbaril- Waveaml OeveU' port— Mmlc oi taking a pnr:)"i»e— Scarctiy of men — Scarcity oi iiicidcni— Pil"l fii»h— Make lanil — Spoken by the English brig Frolic — Shippinj— Arrival at Oahu — Reception — Review of the minion. . . • iU4 fHAP. XIV.— Voyage to Chit .^ — Change of calciilation»— Embark on board the Lolund — Acciilem— Departure- Cabin Ba«ociatoa — The captain — Rules to judeo of churncim— Thr island of Origan — The Ladrones — Danfcrous reefs — Gale— Bitihti idlHiids — Spuiiifih poxncHHiona in the Pacific — Forniysa — rhinese Sea — Ship MonMTiil— Ty plionars— The contending pilots— Appearance of the coaet of China— Arrival at Hon:? Kons— Reception of Keying— Review of the Bnii''h iroopa — Sabbath disrei^artled— The Rev, Char en Ouizlair— Inland of Hong Kong — City of Victoria— Population— Schools— Mnrri.'on Education Society— Morri- 8011 Hi:! — Success o( the school— Kev. S. K- Brown — Churches — Missions — Where established— MinHionaries- Cllniaie of Hoiii itong — Soldiers' Burying Ground— Wesleyan Methodists- SItort voyog«— City of Macao— Grand prior- Bazaar — Temple— Cttinoen's cave — Voyage ii> Canton — Description of the " Pro- vincial City '■— Adventures in the city— Temple of Honaii— Dr. Parker— Dr. Devon— Proclamation of Keying — Counter proclamatitm — Flower Garden — V.: firi'lijeman— Great excitement— Danger of an outbreak— Thrust out of the city- Night excursion— On board the Leiand — Things that strike the foreigner— Boat population — Pirates S&S CHAP. XV. — Voyage from Hong Kong to New York— Chinese Sea— Isianda— Strait of Gasper — Java Sea— Strait of SuinU— Perilous condiiion of the Leland- Loss of cable end anchor — Ship saved — Sumatra and .lava — Pulo Bassa— Malaya — Indian Ocean— Cape of Good Ho|)c— Cast anchor in Table Bay— Gape Town— Coioiiy-Vineyards— Produce— Missionary labr7 coniinufitl — Atitorb rt'lored in llM AmcricaiiR -l>(ii-ui'i|iiioa oi ih« rori— North We«i Coiii|iaii.y ruinniii ii> ihe cuiin- try — RivMl compuriin.'i — lltiilnun'K Hay <,"i)mpHtiy— Mow formed — KxK'fii of iia ppurmiood — War btiweon dm two coiiipniiiew— IJoih nierse'.l in one— The Honur- ab^e lliidNon'R lUy Corn) mny— Folic v of ihe company — Number and aiiimiion o( trndiiiir form — Immrnne jviWf r "i (lie company — Colonliini} the couuiry--Sir Ueoijfe SintpKon's Ooloiiy — ISeiilomeniK— Fort Vancoa»«r — Gemlanien of the fori— rorils of (he fur ppoa»dby li. II. C— Result*— Immltfraiion for «eiileinent—t- li.K — Co rernmeni oryanizid — Fourih nieeting— Ofli'-cru rrip:ned them, unluss they v«'ntured alone acr /.-'' ihe continent, through hostile tribe? or could find some vessel bound to the North- West ';oast, aroinid Cape Horn, that would take them on buard ; and they continued in suspense in regard to their mode of proceeding, until November, when notice appeared in the public journals that Captain N. J. Wytth, of Cambridge, Mass., had recently re- turned from a tour west of the Rocky Mountains, and that he contemplated returning to Oregon in the follow- ing spring. On receiving this intelligence, J. Lee immediatriy repaired to Boston, had an interview with Capt. Wyeth, and readily obtained permission to accom- pany him back to Oregon. Capt. W. had also made arrangements to send a vessel, called the " May Dacre," round to the Columbic river, loaded with goods ; and while in Boston Mr. Lee procured the necessary outfit for his mission, and shipped it on board of Capt, Wyeth's vessel. Here, also, by the consent of the Board, Mr. Lee engaged Cyrus Shepard, a lay member if the church, to accompany him. During the interval be- tween the time that they received their appoiutment, uiid the period fixed upon for their departure, the Lees held a number of missionary meetings in varioLs parts of the country, with verv encouraging results. Ea.ly in March, 1 834, they left New England for the west and on arriving in Missouri, P. L. Edwards, also a lav member, was connected with the mission party, whicli now numbered four. This company, after holding o most interesting mis- sionary meeting at St. Louis, proceeded to Fc»ri Bi 'w?.'.'9"i.'-vv'ff'M,w'iy!W''i'' i",i. ij. !ii,ij 'm jpifiiyiii§i^;«an9q!in»ni)n!*n|)pp!|qijmiiinii THE OREGON MISSION. .1 Independence, on the frontiers of Missouri, which is a place of general rendezvous before starting for the mountains, where they met Capt. Wyeth and his party, oh the 24th of April, 1834. On the 25th, the expedition left Independence, and commenced their wearisome and perilous journey across the Rocky Mountains, and on the 20th of June they arrived at the general rendezvous of the American Fur Traders on Kane's Fork, which is a branch of the Colo- rado of thi West. Here they continued till the 2nd of July, to recruit their jaded animals, and then proceeded on, and on the 15th, arrived at a place on the Snake river, west of the mountains, where Wyeth and his men built a trading station, which he called Fort Hall. Here the mission- aries tarried until the 30th of July ; and as Capt. Wyeth was detained longer for the purpose of finishing his fort, the mission party resolved to proceed, in company with Mr. Thomas McKay and Capt. Stewart, and on the first day of September they arrived in safety at Fort Walla Walla, on the Columbia river. They ascertained, on their journey down from Fort Hall, that the Flat Head tribe of Indians was not only very small, but very disadvantageously situated for the establishment and support of missionary operations among them; and this brought them to the determination to proceed down to the lower country, to find a more eligible site for the location of their mission. Ijcaving their horses at Walla- Walla, they proceeded down the Columbia in one of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's boats, and after a tedious voyage of eleven days, against strong head winds, they arrived in safety at Vancouver on the 15th of September, and the following night slept under a roof, for the first time for one hundred and fifiy-two nights. Worn out with the ex- cessive labor and fatigue of their long journey, they could well appreciate the kind hospitality with whicli they were entertained by the gentlemen of the Fort ; but they gave themselves but two days to rest, and to consult with their hosts, who 'vere well acquainted with ti^T- 'mm l^Mpm NIMPI ipiipPPiiFpSP>i*< m 12 HISTORY or :}■ rf all the Indian tribes, concerning the object the)' had In view ; and on the 18th, J. and D. Lee were oil' on an exploring tour through the country, to " ;make observa- tions relative to the best location for the mission." Examining the Wallamette valley and other portions of the country, they returned to Vancouver on the S7th, still undecided as to the proper place to make the location. The merits of the different portions of the country were considered, the Flat Heads, the Nez Perces, the Kayuses, and other tribes, were faithfully reviewed, but to the exclusion of all others, the Wallamette valley was strongly recommended by Dr. John McLaughlin and the rest of the gentlemen of Vancouver, as the most eligible place for the establishment of the centre of their ope- rations. On Sunday, the 28th, Jason Lee preached twice at Vancouver, to a congregation of English, Iriah, French, half-caste, &c., which were the first sermons ever preached in the place, and doubtless the first that many of the people had ever heard. It was finally decided, "after much prayer for direc- tion as to the place," to locate the mission in the Wallamette valley, and as the brig May Dicre had safely arrived in the Columbia with the goods belonging to tne mission, measures were imniiediately taken to rsceive them from (^apt. Lambert, and convey them to the place selected for the station. The brig lay at the mouth of the Multnomah, or lower mouth of the Walla- mette, and the site for the mission was seventy-five miles up the river; but, after "much toil and hard labor," Mr. Lee succeeded in getting up all the goods, and they were landed on the mission premises on the 6th day of October. The rainy seaaon was commencing, and as they had no house to shelter either themselves or their goods from the inclemency of the weather, they went imme- diately to work to prepare logs, &c., to build a house. The rain fell in torrents long before their house was erected, yet they labored constantly during the day, and ••^fmmmmmmmmmmmum mmi THE OREGON MISSION. IS Sit night were obliged to lie down together ma small tent, scarcely large enough to contain them, and, wrapped in tlieir wet clothes, seek a few hours' repose to prepare them for the toils and storms of the enduing day. Their house was 32 feet by 18, and on the 3d of November they moved their goods into it, though they had put on but ten feet of the roof. So soon as they got their house thus partly covered, they began to receive Indian children mto their family, with the design of establishing a mission school-, and also to labor for the spiritual benefit of all the Indians, and the few French people who had settled in the country. Meetm^s were established at the house of Mr. Joseph Gervais, and held every Sabbath, the principal attendants being f^rer^ and half-caste. On the 14th of December, Mr. Jason Lee visited Vancouver, where he preached, and baptized four adults and seventeen children, fci consideration of these ser- vices he received, in donations, from the gentlemen of the company, the sum of twei^ty dollars, for the benefit of the mission. During the Winter of 1835, the missiona- ries were alternately employed in improving their house, procuring supplies, preaching the gospel, and teaching the Indian and half-caste children to read and write. Thrown entirely upon their own resources, in the spring, to guard against future wiint, they commencea cultivating the ground. There was no attemative; they must do so, or starve. While they saw some fruits of their labors in other respects, this department of tlieir work, during the sun>iner, was greatly prospered, for in the fall, after they gathered in their crops, they found themselves with a good supply of wheat, peas, oats, and barley, and two hundred and fifty bushels of potatoes in their cellar. This, with six barrels of salmon which J, Lee purchased fresh of the Indians at the Wallamette Falls, and salted with h|s own hands, and took up the river to the mission, furnisiied them with the means of subsistence for the following year. Soon after the nji^^sionaries first arrived, Mr. Cyrua Shep.**rd was'eiiipj[Qye' -r 16 HISTORY OP for the general good of the cause he had concluded tc renfain till another opportunity should present itself lor returning to Oregon. The natives of Oahu had made a contribution to Mr. Lee for the benefit of the Oregon mission, amounting to two hundred and fifty dollars. At the same time that this intelligence reached the mis- sion, a letter was received by Jason Lee from Dr McLaughlin, inclosing a subscription for the benefit of the mission, to the amount of one hundred and thirty dollars, all from the gentlemen at Vancouver. As the letter shows in what light these intelligent persons viewed the mission at that time, I insert a copy. It is as follows : "Fort Vancouver, 1st March, 1836. The Rev. Jason Lee : Dear ■•iimrm THE OREGON ^USSIO.V. 17 harvesting their crops, employed the time of the mis- sionaries during the summer ; and in the fall, to make their " bread sure, " they sowed thirty-fpur bushels of wheat. In the latter part of August there Jjirrived a vessel in the Columbia river from England, by the way of the Sandwich Islands, heaving on bpard the Rev. Daniel Lee, who had recovered his health, and Rev. JVIi'* Beaver and lady, Mr. Beaver had b^en sent out as chaplain to the Hudson's Biay Company at Vancouver. He was a clergyman of the Church of England. Mr. Lee arrived at the mission at a very seasonqJble lime to render himself useful, not only in his appropriate mis- si(jnary work, but also in assisting to take care of the sick members of the mission fjimily. At this time Mr. J. Lee was suflfering under a severe attack of the inter- mittent fever. Partially recovering from this attack, he started for Varicouver on the (Jth of September, taking with Ijim a favorite Iiiidian girl whom h.6 called Lucy [ied(j[ing, to obtain medical aid in her behalf. On the 12th, he returned, bringing information of the arrival at Walla- Walla of the Rev. Mr. Spaulding and wife, Dr. Whitman and wife, and Mr. jGrey, who had been sent out as missionaries by the A. B. C. F. M. As Mr. Lee had taken the lower country, they decided upon locating their mission in the interior, among the Kay use and Nez Perce Indians. These were the first American ladies th^t ever crossed the Rocky Mountains, and their arrival in the cpiiiptry formed an epoch in the histpry of Oregoji. During the month of September, aearly all themissipn family were sick at once, with ]the i^terfnitteni fever, an,d another was taken to Vancp4iv^r, by Mr. Edwards, for medical aid. Mr. j^dwards returnod on the j^th, bringing with him Lwcy Hedding, who had received no beneiit from medicine. She died on the 5th of October. On the 2:?nd, J. Lee hiad a third attack of the fever, so severe as to deprive Jbiim of reason for a short time. He continued to suffer, without me^icaLadvice, until the 5JUt of November, when, in a very reduced s^te, he 1* -^..--^,., .-.■.^.— *• .^t»w*prt 18 HISTORY OF i ii set out for Vancouver, where he arrived two days afterv/ards. During his absence, died Joseph Pournaffe, a member of the mission school, aged 17 years. This lad was very attentive to religious instruction, and left oiT play and work on the Sabbath, immediately on being told it was wrong. H often expressed much thankfulness that the mission i en had come to tlie country, to learn him to read, and tell him about God. He was a pro- mising youth, and, if he had lived, would probably have been a blessing to the country. As it was, the missiona- ries had much consolation in his death, for he gave thein satisfaction that their labors had not been in vain. On the 28th of December, after an absence of fi\'e weeks, J. Lee returned from Vancouver with his health somewhat improved, though still quite feeble. Eighteen children and adults had been admitted into the mission family during this year ; two had died and one had run away. The missionaries found on their hands, the last day of December, twenty-five persons ; but having enlarged their farming operations, by the blessing of God they found themselves in the possession of supplies amply sufficient to sustain them until another harvest. On the 2nd day of January, 1837, the members of the mission found cause to rally their forces, to support the cause of temperance. A meeting of the Temperance Society was called at the mission house ; one member who had violated the pledge, was excluded, and throe more were added to the Society. As the reports con- cerning the distillation of ardent spirits were about to be verified by a couple of men, named Young and Carmi- chael, it was unanimously resolved by the meeting to send them a written request, signed by all the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, to desist from their unholy enterprise. The following is a copy of the correspond- ence which took place between the Society and Messrs. Young & Carmichael, and is inserted to show what stand the missionaries took in guarding the morals of the community, and the extent of the influence they .' w,i w'ji"fi»-V''V'' ^^^•>wff!^"ipi"««npp!»i'p»» "^W THJ5 OREGON MISSION. 10 days oFd'^it id was lol ;fulncss to learn , a pro- )ly have [lisBiona- ,ve them a. > of five lis health fitted h»to died and on their persons ; 8, by the possession til another embers of to support emi»e»'a"^<^ le member , and three eports con- about to be and Carmi- ;ting to send nbers of the their unholy correspond- and Messrs. show what le morals of .fluencc thev exerted. But for these measures, intemperance would have devastated the country. *' Messrs. Youno & Carmichael : " Gentlemen^ — Whereas we, the members of the Oregon Temperance Society, have learned with no common interest, and with feelings of deep regret^ that you are now preparing a distillery for the purpose of manufacturings ardent spirits, to be sold in this vicinity; and, whereas, we are most fully convinced that the vending of spiritous liquors will more effectually para- lyze our efforts for the promotion of temperance, than any other, or all other obstacles that can be thrown in our way ; and, as we do feel a lively and intense interest in the success of the temperance cause, believing as we do, that the prosperity and interests of this infant and rising settlement will be materially aflfected by it, both as it respects its temporal and spiritual welfare, and that the poor Indians, whose case is even now indescribably wretched, will be made far more so by the use of ardent spirits ; and whereas, gentlemen, you are not ignorant that the laws of the United States prohibit American citizens from selling ardent spirits to Indians under the penalty of a heavy fine ; and as you do not pretend to justify yourselves, but urge pecuniary interest as the reason of your procedure ; and as we do not, cannot think it will be of pecuniary interest to you to prosecute this business ; and as we are not enemies, but friends, and do not wish, under existing circumstances, that you should sacrifice one penny of the money you have already expended ; we, therefore, for the above, and various other reasons which we could urge, " 1 St. Resolved^ That we do most earnestly and feeU ingly request you, gentlemen, forever to abandon your enterprise. " 2nd. Resolved, That we will and do hereby agree to pay you the sum you have expended, if you will give us the avails cf your expenditures, or deduct from them the bill of expenses. 20 HISTOHV QF ♦•3d. Rcsolvedj That a commitlce of one be appointed to make known the views of this aociety, and preaeni our request to Messrs. Young & Carmichael. " 4th. Resoloedj That the undersigned will pay the sums severally affixed to our names, to Messrs. Youn^ & Carmichael, on or before the thirty-first day ot March next, the better to cpable thern to give up their project" Then followed the napies of nipe Anierica»s, and fifteen Frenchmen, which then embraced a majority of the white men of the country, excluding the Hudson's Bay Company, with a subscription of sixty-three dollars, and a note appended as follows: " We, the undersigned, jointly promise to pay the balance, be the same more or less. " Jason Lbp, Daniel Lee, Cyrjjs Sheparo, P. ,L. EpWABUS." To the above request Messrs. Ypung & Carmichuei returned the following answer: " Wallamettb, 13th Jan., 1837, " Tq the Oregon Temper ancb Society: ^^ Gentlemen, — Having taken into . consideration your request to relinquish our enterprise in manufacturing ardent spirijts, we therefore do agree to stop Oiiir pro- ceeding for the present. But, gentlemen, the reasons for first beginning such an undertaking were the innu- merable dimculties placed in ojur wa-y by, and the tyranising oppression of the Hudson's Bav Cojm,pa,»y, here unde. the absolute authority of Dr. McLaughlin, who has treated us with naore disdain than any Ameri- can citizen'^ feelings could support. But as there have now some favorable circumstances occurred to enable us to get along without making spiritous liquors, we resolve to stop the manufacture of it for the pi^esenl; but, gentlemen, it is not consistent with pur feelings to m^mmmmmfmmmm m THE OR£:OG\ MISSION. '^l receive any rccohiperise wnat'cvei' for oiir oXpchditures. but we are thankful to the Socifety for their otter. " We reihain, yours, &c., " Young &. Cahmichael." The missionaries from the first had proved a great blessing to the country, not only in a spiritual and moral point of view, but in furnishing employment to many nidividuals otherwise without the means of livelihood ; and setting ah example of industry and perseverance in the temporal departments of their worK, they gave a spur to all business operations, and the community suemcd at once to spring from that state of inactivity into which it had been thrown by the domineering policy of the Hudson's Bay Company, into One of great enterprise aiid prosperity. In the early part of January a circumsiarice transpired which enabled the members of the mission arid Others, to carry out a design which they had previously formed, and in the execution of which tne temporal interests of the country would be greatly promoted. This design was to send an expedi- tion to California to purchase and drive to Oregon a band of neat catt ibr the supply of the settlers. The circumstance referred to was the arrival in the country of Wm. A. Slocum, Esq., of the United States Navy. Up to this period there were no cattle in the country, except whet belonged to the Hudson's Bay Company, and they would not sell, but compelled the settlers, if they had cattle at all, to take cows merely for their milk, and returc them with their increase. This looked too much like oppression to Mr. Jason Lee, and he resolved, if possible, to break Up the cattle monopoly, believing that he would thereby c6nfer a lasting benefit to the country. On the arrival of Mr. SlocUm, he pro- posed to take to California, any number of persons that might be needed, free of expense except board ; and a meeting was immediately called at the mission house, for the purpose of forming a California Cattle Company, and maKing the necessary arrangements for the eXpfeai- tlon. Each person belonging to the Company was tc yiMii 22 HISTORY OP if share in proportion to the amount of monev he investeil, and the persons who went with the cxpeclition were to he paiack, and journeying leisurely for several days, towards the south, took a circuit eastward, and striking the head waters of the Molala rivc»\ followed down that stream to the north, towards where it forms a junction with the Wallamette. Crossing the latter river at Champoeg, they returned in safety to the mission, after an absence of ten days. They saw and imparte* irstruction to a \ rj^, ■!HJP*?!^»W«5*'^WW!fSHf!<»^W»^«WIP»i;«^^ PHMppiipp* THE OREGON MISSION. 21 f<;w bands of Indians on their route, and returned with reanimated health. On the 14th of August, Mr. J. Lee and Mr. C. Shep- ard, with their wives, accompanied by Joseph Gervais as guide, left the mission to perform a land journey to the Pacific coast. They traveled one day and a half, through a very beautiful and fertile country, crossing ihe Wallamette and Yamhill rivers, and encamped the second night at the foot of the mountains which separate the Wallamette valley from the Pacific ocean. Next day they commenced crossing the mountains, but found tiie trail exceedingly difficult, on account of the abrupt- ness of the ascending and descending, and the numerous large trees that had fallen across it. This rendered their progress very slow, and the third night they encamped in a deep, dark valley, among the mountains twelve miles from the shore. During the night it was very rainy, and also the following day ; but they moved camp in the morning, and at 5 p. m. pitched their tent in a beautiful cypress grove, within a short distance of the shore, so that their encampment commanded a fine view of the broad expanse of the Pacific ocean. Here they continued for one week, visiting the Kille- mook Indians, who inhabit that portion of the country, and preaching to them as they were able. They enjoyed the clams and other shell-fish, which they pro- cured from the delightful sandy beach, and invigorated themselves by frequent bathing in the salt water. On the 26th, they left their pleasant encampment, and after four days' toil iu crossing the mountains, jumping th(3 logs, fording the streams, and traveling over the prai- ries, they arrived at the mission, after an absence of sixteen days. They were better qualified, from the improvement of their health, to pursue the business of their calling. On the 4th of September following, Mr. Daniel Lee and Mr. Shepard started for Vancouver on business, and arrived tnere on the 6th. On the following day, a canoe arrived at Vancouver, direct from the mouth of the river, bringing the Rev. Daniel Leslie and Rev. U - I 2d HISTORY OF f. ] i f ;i I'll: it K. W. Perkin.^, who had recently entered the r«ver, m the ship Sumatra. They, with Mrs. Leslie and three children, and Miss Margaret Smith, constituted a second reinforcement to the Oregon mission. They mailed from Boston on the 20th of January, 1837, and reached the place of their destination, on the Wallamette river, the 20th of September. Soon after the arrival of Mr. Per- kins, a union betwixt himself and Miss Elvira Johnson, who came out in the former reinforcement, wK ' had been long in contemplation, was consummated. They were married on the 21st of November, 1837, by Rev. David Leslie. On the 25th of December, a general meeting was called at the mission house, and an Oregon Missionary Society was formed. A liberal subscription was raised, to be expended the ensuing year, for the benefit of the Calapooa Indians. At the close of this year, the missionaries were al. residing at or "near the Wallamette station, and were laboring in their respective departments, not without effect, some in sustaming the interests of the mission school, some in preaching to the Calapooas, and the white settlements, some in difTerent mechanical branches, and some in taking care of the farm and the rapidly increasing stock of cattle and horses. Several members of the mission school had died during the year, and mortal diseases unceasingly prevailed among the Indians throughout the country; yet, in view of all the circum- stances of the case, the missionaries were encouraged, and began to take measures for the enlargement of their operations. Attending to the interests of the temperance cause, Mr. J. Lee set out, soon after the 1st of January, on an exploring tour to the Umpqua country, in company with Mr. Birnie, one of the traders of the Hudson's Bav Company. This country lies some two hundred miJ'^s south of Vancouver, and it was reported to conr^iin several thousand Indians, and as offering a fine field for missionary operations. The late rains had swollen the rivers and creeks to such a degree, that it was almost ^i! ^m^rtmmimmxmiit mmm ii|ii[iHiiiiiiqi.,,.i(Pip THE OREGON MISSION". 29 er, in three jecond d from led the rcr, the ir. Per- ohnson, • had They by Rev. Lin^ was issionary as raised, fit of the I were al« and were ^t without :ie mission 3, and the II branches, ,he rapidly a\ members year, and . the Indians the circum- encouraged, nent of their ranee cause, .nuary, on an company with ludson's Ba"/ lundred md-s ed to connm a fine fieW for id swollen the it was almost impossible for Mr. Lee to proceed; yet, after several days of toilsome and dangerous journeying, through the mud and rain, and fording the rapid streams that crossed his path, he succeeded in reaching the trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, situated on the umpqua river, forty miles above its mouth. The information he received here was of an encouraging nature, and such was the difficulty of traveling, that he resolved to extend his observations no farther. Accordingly he returned to the Wallamette, where he arrived on the 1 1th of March, 1838, under the impression that, so soon as a competency of missionaries could be provided, a station should be established somewhere in the Umpqua valley. About this time, a meeting of all the missionaries, preachers, and laymen was called, to consult on the subject of establishing a new station; and, after the merits of several portions of the country were presented, it was unanimously resolved, that a mission be com- menced at the Dalls, on the Columbia river, about ninety miles above Vancouver. Daniel Lee and H. K. W. Perkins were appointed by the superintendent to the new mission. They left the Wallamette station, to repair to their new field, on the 14th of March, Mr. Perkins leaving his wife behind, until they could make arrangements for the convenience of a family. Before Daniel Lee and Mr. Perkins left the Walla- mette, a general consultation was held on the subject of a still greater enlargement of the missionary work, in Oregon. In the estimation of the meeting, " the harvest was plenteous and the laborers were few." The Umpqua, Killaip.ook, Klikitat, Clatsop, Chenook, Nezqualy, and many other tribes, were destitute of missionaries ; and in view of these different stations, and the general wants of the country, they passed a unanimous resolution, ad- vising the Rev. Jason Lee to make a visit to the United States for the purpose of representing before the Board of Managers of the Missionary Society of the M. E. Church and the public generally, the true condition of the country, and of the Indians, and soliciting the men f the mountains, when he heard a rap at his door. Rising, he admitted tlie stranger, who placed a package of letters in his bonds, and immediately left the room. He broke the bla(5k seal of one, and the first line conveyed to him the heart-rending intelligence that his Ann Maria, and her little son, were numbered with the dead. Leaving the afflicted missionary to indulge his grief alone, we return to review other scenes in the valley of the Columbia. On the 14th day of August, information was received in the Wallamette, that Mra. Perkins, at the Dalls, was very sick, and stood in great need of medical aid, and other assistance. Accordingly Rev. D. Leslie, Dr. I. Bailey, and Mrs. White with her little daughter then eight months old, embarked for the Dalls in a canoe manned by Indians, and six days aftei*ward arrived there in safety. In the mean time Dr. Whitman, from the mission in the interior, had visited Mrs. P., and when the company arrived from the Wallamette, her health was nearly restored ; consequently, on the morn- ing of the 22nd, Mr. Leslie and Mrs. White left the Dalls to return home. They descended the Columbia to- the cascades the first day, and the next morning made a portage of some three miles, and again all were seated quietly in the canoe, and the Indians struck out into the strong current. Below them were rapids which, in consequence of the high water, were worse than they anticipated. The river at this place is about one mile and a half wide, and the canoe was about one- third of a mile from the nearest shore. They saw the dashing of the waters before them, but such was the strength of the current that already bore them down, mrmi THE OREGON MIStiTON. 33 was that it was impossible to shun the dangerous point Soon the canoe was carried among the rolling surges, filled, capsized, and instantly all were plungelf-denyin^ band, to mingle with them while they lingered on their native shore, as if loth to make the saci ifice, to witness them as, at the given signal, the ^'/i.'ii^tgva^rftif^v^mmi^'r WWIPP wfifmmm mmm VOYAGE TO OREGON. 39 hastened to commit themselves to that frail bark, which was destined to become their prison home for so mairy tedious days and stormy nights, and, with them, to share the perils of a v^oyage of more than twenty-two thousand miles. Before we take our departure from Sandy Hook, the reader will expect to be entertained with some of the principal events wiiich took place the day preceding the evening on whicli these voluntary exiles were for the first time assembled on the deck of the Lausanne. The morning rose beautiful and serene, with not a cloud to obscure the rising sun, and not a, breath of wind to ruffle the surface of the waters. It was at nine o'clock of this day, when, by a previous arrangement. the mission family, attended by their beloved friends of New York and vicinity, assembled at White Hall Dock, at the foot of Broadway, where lay the steamboat Her- cules?; which had been engaged to take the passengers to the Lausanne, which then lay in East River, and then to to^^y the ship down through the Narrows, into the vicinity of Sandy Hook. Two hundred and fifty per- sons, who had endeared themselves to our hearts by their kindness and solicitude for our welfare, accom- panied us on the steamboa' when we embarked, and among them were the Rev. N. Bangs, D. D., and the Rev. Dr. Anderson, the former being the secretary of the Missionary Society of the M. E. C, and the latter, the secretary of the A. B. C. F. M. It was precisely fifteen minutes past ten o'clock, when the signal was given for the boat to leave the wharf, and, in a few moments, we were along side the Lausanne, while the multitude that lined the shore, were invoking many blessings on our enterprise, and by words and signs were bidding us a last farewell. The ship was immediately fastened to the boat, and v/e were speedily gliding down the beautiful harbor of New York, first looking back upon the city, whose hundred gilded steeples were flashing iii the sun light, and then upon immense shipping, crowded for miles up and down the East and North rivers; now looking for 40 VOYAGE TO OREGON. ' «i.i a moment upon Castle Garden, Governor's Island, the North Carolina sev 3nty~foiir, Brooklyn, the Fort, and then upon the Jer'iey shore, Long Island coast, Staten Island, with aiJ ks delightful scenery; and every thing withiki the range of our vision was gazed upon with so mucti the more interest, as they belonged to our own native country, and, in ail probability, we were to see them no more. The time that elapse'^ fi ;m vHir leaving the wharf, till the steamboat left us ;«. > ^ ■■ ^, was full of deep and lively interest. The co -o; -iiuon was fraught with the most intense feeling and anxiety, which were manifested ever and anon, by floods of tears, and expressions of the most ardent wishes for our wtJfare and success. The nymns that were sung were remarkably appropriate, and tended to increase the flame already burning on the altar of every heart. The religious services, conducted by Dr. Bangs, Dr. Anderson, and the Rev. Mr. Davis, were peculiarly solemn and affecting, and closed by the baptism of the infant son of the Rev. J. P. Richmond, who was christened " Oregon," the nar^e of the country to which we were bound. While vet the impressions which these services had made um x; ali present were the most lively and tender, it Vi.. Ivjinced that the two vessels must separate. At ti «> ' x";,'' -xll the missiona- ries, with their attendants, were on li -twamboat. We had passed the Narrows, and were rf.^" ly approaching Sandy Hook, when the parting scene commenced. Now parents and children, brothers and sisters, and friends and acquaintances, embraced each other for the last time on earth, and amidst tears, prayers and farewells, the rnissionaries passed from the boat to the deck of the Lausanne. The grapplings w 3 immediately cast off*, and the Hercules sailed grace '• : ^iround us, while from each «3ck the emblems of pu nd affection, snow white handkerchiefs, were flutte-uig in the air, until by a point of I^ong ^sland, at the Narrows, the vessels were hiddci fr ni ^iMch other's si^ht. Thougj then; .\ .^ no wmd to favor us, an ebb tide carried us slowly down to the usual anchorage, inside of lit I _»aatija(ii II » W W I H,PMJ,«I1.. J VOYAGE TO OREGON. 41 Sandy Hook, where we were glad to have a little time to arrange our cabin and state room affairs, before going to sea. The evening of the day of embarkation was serene and peaceful, and after the stirring everts of the day had been rehearsed by the passengers assembled on the deck of our noble vessel, all repaired quietly to their berths, and, after a good night's rest, arose on the morning of the 10th of October, in good health and spirits, for their ""^ voyage. At half past six o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and spreading our canvass to a gentle western breeze, were carried majestically past the Hook, and were soon tossed upon the waves of the broad Atlantic. The passengers were all immediately called upon to perform the initiatory rites to which all have to submit, who, for the first time, invade the dominions of Neptune. This, however, did not prevent many from taking a last look of the Highlands of Never Sink, which disappeared in the smoky distance at three o'clock in the afternoon of the first day. In passing through this terrible ordoal of initiation, there are occasional intervals of relaxation, and on Sunday, the 13th, the "North-Easter," which had been blowing from the first day out, lulled ; a calm suc- ceeded, and operated like a charm upon the sick inmates of the Lausanne ; for all so far recovered as to be able to present themselves on the quarter deck. As we are now on the fourth day out fairly under way, having lost sight of land, and experienced one severe storm, and, for the first time since leaving Sandy Hook, collected on the deck of the vessel, the reader will expect a more particular account of the company to which, collectively, he has already been introduced. Embracing the oflScers and crew, there were seventy- five souls on board, fifty-four of whom were passengers. The ship was commanded by Capt. Spaulding, who had been employed by the owners, Farnham & Fry, in view of his qualifications, to take charge of such an expedition, for so long a voyage. Twenty years' expe- rience as master of a vessel, had established the cantain's 2* 42 VOYAGE TO OREGON. rcputatiof. as a skillful navigator, which, in connexion with his general kindness to the passengers, and his ellbrts to make them as comfortable as their crowded condition on the vessel would admit, proves that the selection, if not the best that could have been made, was as good as could have been reasonably expected. The first and second mates, though wanting in strict moraUty, were excellent seamen, and well understood the business of navigation. The second mate, Mr. Coffin, had performed eight voyages around Cape Horn. The crew were composed ot English, Americans. Irish, Germans, Danes, and Swedes. This variety was selected, as the captain said, because among such a crew it is less difficult to preserve order, than it is with a crew exclusively Americans. Finding ourselves thus officered and manned, and witnessing the management of our vessel through one protracted ^torm, we concluded that, extraordinaries excepted, we should be conducted in safety to the land of our destination. The passengers in the cabin, embracing children, numbered fifty-four. Of these eight were ministers of the gospel ; seven of whom, namely, Jason Lee, J. H. Frost, A. F. Waller, W. W. Kone, G. Mines, L. H. Judson, J. L. Parrish and J. P. Richmond, were con- nected with the missionary expedition to Oregon ; and one, the Rev. Shelden Dibble, was a Presbyterian mis- sionary, on his way to his field of labor, in tne Sandwich Islands. We had one physician, Dr. J. L. Babcock, who had been appointed to take care of the health of the members of the mission, and all the remainder had been connected with the enterprise, by the appointment of the Missionary Board of the M. E. Church, as farm- ers, mechanics, and teachers, to labor for the promotion of religion and civilization, in the territory of Oregon. With the secular department of the work, two of the above named preachers, L. H. Judson, and J. L. ParriSh, were also connected. The persons composing this, the largest expedition of the kind that had ever sailed from our shores, presented ^-■^'*i ' i m<^t^mfg g gjtggS g gg^ ■,iiMlP,i!^u Hwpifpw^wqn- VOYAGE TO ORE JON. 43 nnexion and his rowded hat the I made, cpected. in strict ierstood te, Mr. (6 Horn, lericans, ety was such a t is with led, ugh and one rdinaries the land !e, > ere children, isters of J. II. L. H. con- on ; and rian mis- andwich iabcock, iealth of ider had ointment as farm- romotion Oregon. JO of the Parrilh, dition of iresented a great variety in consequence of the extensive range of country from which they had been collected. Coming together from Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, Maryland, North Carolina, Illinois, and Missouri, and bringing with them many of the different peculiarities of these several portions of our Union, it would not be surprising, confined as they were for so long a time, under circumstances pecuHarly calculated to " try men's souls" if, from time to time, they came so far in collision with each other's views and prejudices, as to produce a momentary rupture. One striking trait, however, as difficult to exhibit as it is excellent in its influence, ap- peared in the conduct of the company huddled together in the cabin of the Lausanne. It was this ; a disposition to sacrifice self, for the promotion of the common weal. This excellency of character was fully manifested on the part of the ladies, of whom we had nineteen on board. Dismissing this general description of the company, I proceed to give a few of the incidents of our voyage, first, assuring the reader that long and tedious descrip- tions of the management and evolutions of the vessel, the peculiar technicalities of navigation, the clewing, handhng, or reefing of sails, and the various phenomena which belong exclusively to the avocation of those who " go down to the sea in ships and do business on the great waters," will be studiously avoided. The seaman's vocabulary constitutes an unintelligible jargon to all landsmen ; and as this Journal is designed for the benefit of such as are not accustomed to the seas, this vocabu- lary will not be resorted to, except where it may be thought necessary to express the subject in a clearer light, or to render a description more full and explicit. Waiving all such explanations hereafter, and continuing directly on our voyage, in the regular course of events, I come now to give a description of our first Sabbath at sea. Though a storm had been raging for days, yet the Sabbath brought with it almost a perfect calm. In con •equence of the sickness of the passengers no arrany;'^ I I ' i VOYAGE TO OREGON. ments nad been made with regard to the services of the day ; but the weather being so fine, it was thought "practicable, notwithstanding all had not recovered from iheir sickness, to have pubUc worship. The Rev. Mr. Dibble having performed a number of vovages, was sufficiently inured to the motion of the vessel, to be able to preach j and being requested to officiate, the passen- gers and some of the crew collected on the quarter deck, and hstened to a most interesting, appropriate, and profitable discourse, from the words of the Apostle Paul. " For scarcely for a righteous man, will one die, yet peradventure for a good man, some would even dare to die." To many, it was a season " of refreshing from the presence of the Lord ; " and we found our vessel to be none other than the "house of God. and the gate of Heaven. " In the evening, all that were able, came together on deck, for the purpose of holding a prayer meeting, and while the meeting was in progress, a fine breeze sprung up, and as the wind whistled through our rigging, the voice of prayer was ascending to the throne of God. The meeting closed, and all quietly retired to their berths, committing themselves to the care of Him who rides upon the wings of the wind, and who holds the mighty ocean in the hollow of his hand. Thus closed our first Sabbath at sea, leaving the delightful impression that we were not to be deprived of the privileges of the sanctuary, though far away amidst the solitude of the ocean. For the purpose of promoting harmony on board, in the evening of the 16tn, rules were adopted, by a vote of the passengers, to regulate the police of the cabin during the voyage. These rules fixed the time of rising, the time for morning and evening prayers, the order to be observed at the table, and the course of conduct to be pursued with reference to the children. We found it to be as necessary to have law in our little floating world, as it is on land; and the laws thus volun- tarily adopted, proved salutary in their influence, throughout the whole voyage. M ) I NHa VOVAOB TO OREGOiN. 45 meeting This arrangement was carried out, during tne seven months of our confinement on the Lausanne, witliout deviation, except when the motion of the vessel v/as so violent as to render it altogether impracticable. Persons were also appointed to make arrangements for holding a centenary moeting, on board the vessel, and for pre- paring a journal of our voyage, to be sent back to New York, for publication in the C. A. Journal. On the 18th, it was determined that our preparatory to the centenary, should be held on Mon day, the 21st instant, at 10 o'clock, a. m., at which addresses should be delivered, and subscriptio is solicited. It was also resolved, that, in connection witti >ur breth- ren throughout the world, we would meet together on the 25th inst., and celebrate the day in the following manner: Prayer meeting in the morning, preaching at 2 o'clock, and love-feast in the evening. On Monday, the 2ist, a strong head wind prevailed, and the violence of the motion of the ship was so great, that the preparatory meeting was deferred until the 23d. Two addresses were delivered on the occasion, after which a subscription was taken, which, by a previous resolution, was to ba appropriated for the moral eleva- tion of the Indians, west of the Rocky mountains. And, although we were floating upon the bos^/in of the deep, nef.rly a thousand miles from land, being in latitude 35 det;rces, 44 minutes, north, and longitude 55 degrees, 15 minutes, west, yet it was a season of peculiar interest; and the sense of obligation which all felt, in view of the beiefits conferred upon them and the world, through the influence of Wesleyan Methodism, was exhibited by placing on the altar, by the missionaries, a thank oflxsr- ing, amounting to six hundred and fifty dollars, twenty ofwhich were contril uted by the Presbyterian mission- ary, the Rev. S. Dibble. On the 25th, the centenary of Methodism was cele brated on the Lausanne, according to pre^'ious arrange ment; and, having been selected for the purpose, tho ■ I . la w yw i y^a ..u-ia^i^- 46 VOYAGE TO OREGON. «i I M writer endeavored to improve the occasion by a dis course, from Zachariah, xiv. 6, 7, 8. While the interesting services of this day and evening were in progress, our gallant ship, by a strong breeze, was wafted over the rolling deep at the rate of nine knots an hour. Thursday, 31st. All the passengers begin to prefei the deck to the cabin or state-rooms, and whether sick or well, storm or calm, they will make their appearance on deck several times a day, if they can possibly get out themselves, or get any one to assist them out. This preference arises first, from the heat of the cabin, which as we proceed south, is getting quite unendurable ; second, from the nauseous scent, which, at any time, would be disagi eeable to the olfactories, and, to sea-sick stomachs, is truly repulsive; third, from the crowded condition of the cabin, there being a large number of chests, trunks, boxes, baskets and other things, scattered along the gangway and under the tables, so that it is almost impossible to find a place to set one's foot. This day an incident transpired, as disagreeable to some as it was a fruitful source of laughter to others. The wind had been blowing with increasing violence for a number of hours, and the sea had become unusually rough. By the mismanagement of the man at the wheel, the vessel shipped a tremendous sea, which came rushing over on the deck, and extended from the bow to the stern^ and rose so high as to wet the lower part of the top sails. Mrs. Lee, Mrs. Hines and Mrs. Frost were on deck at the time, the two former too sick to hold up their heads, and the latter waiting upon them to some gruel. They were bolstered up in their chairs, which leaned back against the scuttle, with their facias to the windward, and received the whole weight of the huge sea, as it poured its overwhelming flood on the ship's deck. For a moment they scarcely knew whether they were in the ocean, or on the vessel, but when the flood passed over, they found Cduse for thankfulness in the fact, that, with their thorough drenching, they had received no serious injury. I VOYAOE TO UREOON. it 3 ads, They back ward, as it For in the over, , with kerioua November 1st. The wind has gradually increased in strength since yesterday, and consequently the sea runs very high. Though I find myself so sick, in consequence of the violent motion of the vessel, that I loathe almost every thing my eyes behold, yet occasionally I draw myself up to the windward by ropes, and, looking over the bulwarks, contemplate the grandeur and sublimity of the mighty ocean, as she proudly and majestically rolls onward her mountain waves. During the night, we were called to encounter a severe gale. For forty- eight hours the wind had been blowing with increasing strength, attended occasionally with rain. But early in the evening the sky became perfectly clear, and the stars glistened with unusual brightness, which gave indication that a still more violent blast awaited us. About midnight, at the loud and well understood call of the second office r, all hands were immediately on deck; for in the midsi of a storm, every sailor is converted into a fearless hero. The listening sailors waited' for a moment the word of command, when " Clew your main sheet; clew up your main top sail; handle your maintop gallant Sail; clew your fore tack; close reef your fore top sail;" were heard above the roar of the winds and waves, and met with a prompt obedience. This being done, the captain was called, for the time was considered somewhat perilous. When the captain appeared on deck, the officer said to him, "There is a gale coming, sir, still more heavy than any thing we have had. Shall I not handle the foretop gallant sail, and lay to the gale]" The captain hesitated a moment, when the mate cried out, " The fore top gallant sail must be taken in, sir, or lost in a minute." "Close reef your fore top gallant sail," was heard above the roar of the angry elements, and wfs obeyed with amazing promptness by the faith- ful sailors, who had been as quick as thought to every word of command. After the sails had all been taken in, except enough .0 Iteep the vessel steady, the man at the wheel was charged to "mind his weather helm." At this m'^**^ent the whole fury of the blast was upon us. The dea. was lashed to foam, and the wind, with 1 ■ Vf -■ly t ! u t I ! ' I' lit {■ ! : ' t If f t ^ r, %■ t it f l» w I f 1 ■ ! I i« \ 48 VOYAGK TO OREGON. V fitful gusts, swept angrily across our deck, and howled dismally through our rigging. At every blast of the tempest, the ship creaked in every joint, and, careening to the water's edge, swung her towering masts majesti- cally in the heavens. The huge waves came rolling over our weather bow, and occasionally washed the entire length of our vessel. But the time had now arrived to lay to the wind. "Hard up!" thundered the watchful captau); ''Hard up, sir I" replied the faithful helmsman. Thti gallant ship turned her face to the wind, and defied the fury of the storm. She lay upon the waves, apparently as light as a feather, and increased the confidence jf all in her capacity, by the triumphant manner in which she rode out the gale. At 3 o'clock in the morning the wind slackened, and changing sud- denly into the west, brought us again on our course, and at four we were gliding over the billows, at the rate of nine knots an hour. Orv the morning of the 8th, we began to be affected by the north-east trade wind. There are two of these winds, one north and the other south of the equator, extending quite around the globe, with the exception of those intermediate spaces where they are broken oft* by land breezes. The trade north of the equator, called the north-east trade, commences between the 28th and 30th degrees of north latitude, and continues to the 8th, the distance of twenty degrees. In sailing to the south, you begin to feel the south-east trade between the 3d and 4th degrees of north latitude. The intermediate space, consisting of a strip about five degrees, or three hundred miles wide, is the region celebrated on account of its variable winds, sudden squalls, and extended calms. Here vessels are sometimes detained, by dead calms, beneath the vertical rays of a burning sun, for forty or fifty days; and captains consider that a voyage across this region is unusually prosperous, if it is performed in one week. The south-east trade continues from the 3d degree north, to the 30th degree south of the equator; its cur- rent varying from the east to south by east. WW ;i {S iifiaiitfiiittiili wm VOYAGE TO OBEOON. 49 ening ijcsti- olling d the 3d the lithful Lo the 1^ upon reased nphant o'clock ig sud- course, he rate affected .1" these squator, >tion of .. off by •, called I8th and the 8th, [e south, . the 3d •mediate >r three account id calms, calms, forty or |e across »rmed in degree its cur* These winds are probably produced by two caUBOs in '.onnection. First, the constant tendency of the air to restore its equilibrium. The cold air of the poles rushes in towards the equator, and sets the heated and rarified air around the equatoi: in motion, and the heat of the sun, upon the elastic ail', has a tendency to increase the motion, by expanding the air; and thus a contention is produced betwixt the cold and heated air, the former exerting itself to supplant the latter, and vice versa. Second, the diurnal revolution of the earth on its axis. If it were not for these daily revolutions, these winds would blow direct from the poles to the equator, whereas their current now rvins diagonally with that line. There is also a current in the ocean, which runs with the trade winds, and is evidently produced by the revolutions of the earth. These two causes combine to produce that regularity in these winds, without which it would be difficult, if not impossible, to navigate the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. These important currents are called trade winds, because they are more favorable to com- merce, or trade, than all other winds that blow. In the afternoon of this day, the passengers were thrown into an excitement by the announcement, by tfce captain, of " a whale along side." No one had ever seen one of these monsters of the deep, and of course there was a general rush to the bulwarks, to get a glimpse of him before he should disappear. Even those wh^ "'ere still confined to their berths, by sea sickness, ir. ^ oe assisted on deck, to have a view of the whale. There were two of them, and they played around the vessel for an hour, and occasionally showed die entire length of their huge forms, above the surface m the water, thus giving all an opportunity to satisfy their curiosity concerning the largest of the inhabitants of the ocean. On the firing of a gun, they instantly disappeared. On the 19th, we were in the latitude of Monrovia, on the western coast of Africa, and within three hundred and fifty miles of that place. This is our nearest approach to fmmmm 50 VOYAGE TO OREGOK. I > 1 1 , 1 1( the continent of Africa. In these latitudes vessels usually experience heavy falls of rain, so as to be able to repio nish all their empty water casks; however, we realized but little, and most of our exhausted casks remained dry. This subjected us to the inconvenience of being thrown upon an allowance of water, which was a pre- caution the captain said was necessary to enter into, in order to make our water hold out, till we should reach the port of Rio de Janeiro. We were here relieved from the monotony of our voyage, which began to be quite disagreeable, by a number of incidents always interesting at sea, and always described in the journals of voyagers. The first was the appearance of an im- mense school of porpoise There must have been tens of thousands of them, as t \ppeared to cover hundreds of acres. They continued around the vessel for some time, leaping and bounding high out of the water in every direction. They are a warm blooded fish, and leap out of the water for the purpose of breathing. They are from three to five feet long, and weigh from one hundred and fifty to three hundred pounds. The second was, the being spoken by two French sloops of war. We had seen several vessels since leaving port, but none had approached near us, until the 21st of November, when, early in the morning, a French sloop of war, of twenty-four guns, came dashing on our stern, as if she intended to run us down. The stars and stripes were immediately flying from our s))anker vard, to show Monsi(;ur who we were. In response, the French colors were soon seen, streaming in the wind. After manceu- vering a little on our stern, she finally passed us to the windward within a few rods, presenting a remarkably fine appearance. The other vessel referred to was a sloop of eighteen guns, and spoke us on the 23d. She first appeared far to the windward, but bore down towards us, and fcL' on our stern about three miles olF. After chasing us for t^everal hours she finally succeeded in coming along side to the leeward, and, after we examined each otiier for a half hour or more, and passed lally ;})ic lizecl lined )eing pro- Lo, iu reach ievcd to be Iways arnals m im- n tens ndrcfls • some Iter in ih, and athing. [h from The 30pS of port, 21st of sloop stern, stripes show h colors manoju- to the larkably was a Id. She down lies otf. cceeded fter we id passed to is e X a' tOYAOE TO OREGON. through with the usual salutations of showing the colors of our respective nations, she bade us good bye, but allowed us to keep in sight of her during the day. On the morning of tnc 25th, before a strong south east trade, at the rate of seven knots, we passed from the northern to the southern hemisphere. The following evening was remarkably dark, though calm and serenti, and we were gliding almost imperceptibly along at the rate of three knots, before a gentle breeze, when, all at once, there appeared within ten feet of the vessel, floating on the water, a large fire, which flamed up several feet high, and appeared about three feet in diat ;ter. The Rev. W. W. Kone first discovered this remarkable phenomenon, and with his exclamations of wonder at what it might be, a great exuitement was produced among the passengers, while the captain appeared to be more at a loss to know what tliis strange fire could mean, than any other. All were gazing at it with intense interest, and many began to philosophize concerning it. Some said it was a remarkable collection of phosphorus; some called it electricity, and som.e one thing and some another. At length it began to be whispered that there was some trick about it, and finally, all the theories that had been advanced concerning it, laughable from their absurdities, fell to the ground, on the discovery of the fact that it was nothing but a burn- ing tar barrel, which the sailors had got permission from the captain to lower from the bow of the vessel, for the purpose of exciting the inquisitive curiosity of the pas- sengers. The incident, though tritiing in its nature, for the time being was a source of considerable merriment. It was not a little interesting to us, as we proceeded southward, to witness new and magnificent constellations of stars rising to our view, and those near the north pole, with which we had been familiar from our child- hood, sinking from our sight, beiow the northern horizon. The north polar star, which to us had ever been ele- vated more than forty degrees in the heavens, was lost behind the mountains of ice which rise in majestic gran- deur amid the Arctic ocean ; while the Great and Little m VOYJkOE TO OREGON. § t 'Ik Bear, the Great and Little Dog, Andromeda, Cassiopea, Taurus and Orion, were fast receding northward, to rise again to our view when we should approximate the lati- tudes ever which we had sailed. But while we were leaving these old acquaintances of the hypcborean re- gions, new and no less interesting ones presented them- selves in the southern sky, to cheer us on our lonely voyage around the stormy cape. Among tlie celestial scenery of the south, there is notiliing more interesting than those two remarkable spots Li'the heavens, which are known by the name of the Magellan clouds. These phenomena do not present the appearance of clouds, as their name would indicate, but they are quite luminous, resembling in their aspect the brightest spots in the Milky Way, and supposed, like the latter, to consist of innumerable stars, not discernible to the naked oye. They are situated near the south pole of the heavens, and are about fifteen degrees apart, tlie smaller being nearest the pole. In the diurnal revo- lutions of the earth, th^y each describe a circle round the pole, the diameter of the smaller circle being about fifteen, and that of the latter about twenty-five degrees. As tliere is no star at the south pole answering, to the southern hemisphere, the purpose that the north star serves to the northern, these clouds serve in Rif.vigating the South Pacific ocean. It is said by some that there is another cloud of a dark appearance not far distant from these, but of this we could see nothing. It is quite certain that no such dark cloud exists. These clouds derived their name from ths distinguished navigator, who alao gave his name to the straits leading from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, and separating Terra del Fuego from Pa*'gonia, December 1st was the last Sabbath we spent before making the coast of Brazil, and as it was a fair sample of the manner in which all our pleasant Sabbaths were employed^ the reader will perhaps be gratified with a short de'icriptioa of it. The day was inexpressibly fine ; a bland and reviving breeze tempered the rays of the vertic^d sun, and bore us almost imperceptibly over the i*lntll ■t.ii'T^^lf^^T'^'f VOVAGS TO OUtEGON. before sample 18 were with a ly fine ; 8 of the )ver the gentle undulation of the leep. At worship in the temple o> Jehovah < 5$ the usual hour of ship in the temple o> Jehovah on land, a bell was rung so as to be heard from the after cabin to the fore- castle, to call the people together ; and immediately sixtv-five persons were comfortably seated on the quar- ter cleck, beneath an awning, spread to intercept the too intense rays of the tropical sun. The minister for the occasion gave out the sublime hymn commencing •• '^ 'ore Jehovah's awfui throne, " which was sung 'with the spirit and with the under- standing also," to the ir/jmortal tune of "Old Hundred." The voice of solemn prayer succeeded, and was followed by an appropriate sermon from the words, "They all with one consent began to make excuse. " At the close of the exercises all appeared to feel that, from whatever else they would be excused, they would not be excused from receiving the forgiveness of sins, the consolations of religion, hope in death, and everlasting life. In the afternoon all assembled again, and listened to an interest- ing discourse from the text, " And they remembered his words. " The excellency and wisdom of the words of Christ, were dilated upon in such a manner as to impress all with the truth of the remark, that "He spake as never man spake. " The closing scene of this day's exercise was one of true sublimity. Surrounded with the darkness and stillness of evening, all again bowed dow»~ on the deck of the Lausanne, and offered up their ferve.it aspirations to the throne of God. The wind be; an to whistle through our canvass as we retired to our berths, feeling truly grateful for the privileges of the holy Sabbath, though enjoyed amidst the boundless wastes of the Atlantic On leaving New York our course was nearly south- east until we approached the continent of Africa ; then making an angle, we sailed nearly south-west until we approached the coast of Brazil ; and it may be a matter of surprise to many, that we should sail so much out of our way, to get to the city of Rio Janeiro. The object of making so much easting was, first, to secure th« 54 VOYAGE TO OnEGOff. I, I j\ '.'-1 >i I benefits of the north-east and south-east trade winds, and second, to avoid being driven by these winds and the currents of the ocean, to the northward of Cape St Rogue, the easternmost point of land on the coast of Brazil. All vessels bound to the south of Cape St. Roque pursue nearly the same track, and cross the equator between the twentieth and twenty-third degrees of west longitude. Early in the morning of the- 8th of December, the cry of "Land, ho!" brought most of the passengers immediately to the deck. The captain had remarked the evening previous, that we should see land in the morning to the north-east of us, if the wind continued in the same direction, which proved to be the case ; and the high bluffs of Cape Frio (cold cape) appeared in full view about twenty-live miles off. The sight of land was hailed with the utmost joy, it having been fifty-nine days since the high lands of Never Sink, the last land we saw, were hidden in the dim distance. As we pro- ceeded down towards Rio, the coast presented a grand and picturesque appearance, not vastly diusimilar to that ' of the mountains, as seen from the deck of a steamboat on the Hudson river. The day was calm, and the sky overcast with clouds, and many of the mountains reared their lofty heads above the strata of the lower clouds, so that these were seen lowering around the mountains, and presenting the appearance of vast quantities of smoke, rolling down their apparently smooth and conical sides. Our eyes being once more privileged with be- holding land, though at a distance, our attention was again called to the solemnities of the holy Sabbath. Monday, the 9th, we were hovering around the en- trance of the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. A slight breeze from land prevented us from proceeding directly into the harbor, and this gave us an opportunity to contem- plate the scenery of the shore. The preceding nigh', had been one of unusual darkness, occasioned by the dense fog by which we were enveloped ; but this ren- dered the appearance of the revolving light, which came peering through the midnight gloom from the distant isle, still more dolightful. iiiiiniiiilll VOYAGE TO OREGON. 65 As the sun approached the meridian, and dissipated ihe mists of the morning, the land zephyr died away, and a gentle breeze from the ocean filled our alrei.iy expanded sails, wafting us directly towards the harbor. As we approached the shore, the scenery presented to our view was beautifully grand, beyond description. On our left, the " Sugar Loaf" mountain reared its lofty summit, to the height of eight hundred feet, sloping on the side towards the water, but perpendicular on the opposite; also, the island of serpentine rock, elevated several hundred feet, with the light-house resting on its top, and " Redonda," perfectly conical in its formation, being about fifty rods in diameter at its base, and risincr more than five hundred feet; while, about ten miles the distance, appeared a majestic mountain, whose cloua capped summit towered to the height of three thousar feet above the ocean, and seeming to look down con- tempt ously on every thing beneath. It is called the " Parrot's Beak." The main shore is very broken, some ' ^^t8 of it being elevated far above the rest, while the "(^•rags" on their ruggod summits, appear to Iro^^n down K'liop fhe agitated wy'ers, which dash h u-mlessi y against .i base. On our right, the mountainous coast could be dis nctly sei i the distance of sixty miles, to Cape Frio; while on our l«'ft, to a distance, if possible, still greater, pile after pil of huge, massy rocks were thrown together in tlie wildest confusion, rising thou- sands of feet above the level of the ocean, and, as they receded from us, appearing less and less, until, in the dim distance, they wer lost from our sight These, together with , vi*n' jf the imperial city of Rio de Janeiro, lying quieli}^ m the bosom of the bay of St. Janarius, conspired to give variety to the splendid pano- rama, by which, on entering the harbor, we found our- selves encircled,. The grandeur and subUmity of thv scene were worthy of the pencil of the most skillful artist, and truly enchanting to the lover of nature; and it was with the most thrilling emotions of delight, that we gazed upon the romantic and picturesque scenery before us. As wo drew near the shore, the mountains ' H: 66 VOYAGE TO OREGON. uU lining the entrance of the harbor, lost the sterile ap- pearance which they had presented from a distance, be- ing changed, by the beautiful verdure which covered their summits, into a delightful green. The valleys between the mountains were clothed with luxuriant evergreens, and here and there a round elevation pre- sented, in beautiful variety, a few cocoa-nut trees, which were scattered sparsely over them. Soon our attention was invited to animate nature. At the mouth of the channel, leading into the bay and harbor of Rio, is a very strong fortification, and the heads of armed men could be seen above the ramparts as we passed. We were hailed from this fort, as also from an armed vessel Iving at a distance. From another fort, still nearer the city, a man bawled out, through a speaking- trumpet, requiring us to proceed no farther, but to bear off to the right and come to anchor, which we immedi- *ately obeyed, although it subjected us to the inconve- nience of rowing one mile and a half, to gain the shore. It was two o'clock, p. m., of the 9th; when we came to anchor, and the rest of the day was spent in receiving those visits from government officers, which«are required previous to their admitting any on shore. The gentlemen who visited us were intelligent and affable, and, coming from a Roman Catholic government, were quite asto- nished to see so many priests on board, especially when they were informed that they all had wives. On the morning of the 10th, the captain, with six of the passengers, went ashore. We were, however, re- quired by the government, to pa^ along side an armed schooner, which was stationed in the harbor, for the purpose of giving them an opportunity to examine our baggage, to see that we had no contraband goods in our possession, which very unceremonious process, we were mformed, vvo must submit to, as well when we returned from the 'hore to the vessel, as in passing from the vessel to lae shore. As we were to lie here a number of days, we looked upon this custom-house arrangement as imposing upon us a useless and disagreeable task. Immediately on landing, we proceeded to the mercantile ^yogggg, VOYAGE TO OREGON. »^ establishment of Gardiner & Campbell, who are English residents. Gardiner had formerly resided some time in the city of New York. Here we were soon met by the Rev. Justin Spauldin^, who had resided in the place for three years, as a missionary of the Methodist E. Church, and from whom, in connection with his familv, and the family of his colleague, the Rev. D. P. Kidder, (who himself was absent on an exploring tour to the north,) we met with a most cordial reception. We found them commodiously situated, in a large building, well furnished for their accommodation, and located in a retired part of the city of Rio de Janeiro, about one mile from the place of landmg. Mr. Spaulding assured us that, though he could not furnish the whole company with beds, yet his rooms were open, and he should expect us to occupy them freely, by night and by day, while we remained in the place. And, indeed, all that christian love and kindness could do, these missionaries cheerfully per- formed, to render our stay with them happy and inte- resting. The splendid city of Rio de Janeiro, which is the capital of the Empire of Brazil, presents to voyagers to this portion of the world, an object of considerable interest. A better location for a commercial city can scarcely be imagined. It is surrounded by a country of vast extent, of inexhaustible fertility, and equal in re- sources to the most enlarged expectations. Its harbor is one of the best in the world. The entrance to it is narrow, though sufficiently deep to admit vessels of the largest size to pass with perfect safety, and then ex- tending out into a bay thirty miles long, and fifteen broad, and being favored almost every day with both land and sea breezes, which enable vessels readily to pass in and out, being of suitable depth for all sizes of vessels, and surrounded by mighty mountain barriers, which break off the winds on every side. It is unques*- tionably one of the safest and most commodious anchor- ages on the whole face of the globe. With these natural advantages to favor her, we might expect that Rio would have experienced a rapid growih from the time when wi^^^^ ■IPIBIOTM 68 VOYAGE TO OREGON. Portugal planted her first colony on the borders of that lovely lay; but a mistalien policy, developed in many periods of her history, has tended greatly to retard her progress ; and, consequently, she continued compara- tively sniall until Don John, the Portuguese king, left the mother country, and removed to his Brazilian terri- tories, and built hig palace within the precincts of this city. This circumstance transpired in 1803. At the present time the city is one of considerable extent. It contains one hundred and fifty thousand inha- bitants, of various nations, and of every shade of com- , plexion. Here are some native Portuguese, more native Brazilians, a few French, Africans, Jews, Americans, and about one thousand English. The city lies in the form of a parallelogram, and some of the streets present a splendid appearance. The houses are principally built with stone, and are covered with tiles. Some of the buildings, and especially the royal palace, and some of the churches and convents, are splendid specimens of architecture ; but a great share of the city, however, appears like a vast assemblage of state prisons. Rio de Janeiro suffers much in point of beauty and cleanliness, when compared with the cities of many of our Eastern and Middle States. It presents an antiquated and sombre aspect, without that appear- ance of life and animation, which characterize the cities of the Anglo-Americans. The religious state of the city is truly deplorable. The Roman Catholic religion here exists in all its name- less mummeries and superstitions. " Strictly speaking," said a Protestant missionary who has resided three years in the city, " there is no religion here." This same missionary informed me that of all the people with whom he had become acquainted by three year's resi- dence among them, there were but two that he had the least reason to suppose were christians, in the proper sense of the word. But, if true religion consists in the erection of splendia cathedrals, and in decorating them with golden images, 'ind the lambent flame of huge wax candles constantly . ■■^^twKw'Vi'iwii^ii km t i>*i*i*i«iai»j'iW«HW<ur»l cor.tinied — Departure from Rio — R«v. Mr. Spaddinf — Trench Fleet - Violent Blorm— Flying jib boom carried away— Dinner lort — Siorm abates - Christmas — Iloat — Doubling Cape Horn — Gale nineteen dnys — Under ban* poles — Prosperity — Sight of land — Brig Andes — Arrival at Valparaiso — Small pox — Danger — Description of the city — 1:8 civil and political condi- tion — Religion — Superstition, illustrated by amusing incidents — Protestantism — Importance of Valparaiso — Adventures round about the city — Great dia- crepancy — Appropriate name. The time fixed upon for leaving Rio, to proceed on our voyage, was Saturday morning, the 14tii of December. Accordingly, at that time, we were all prepared for weighing anchor ; but a strong south wind commenced blowing directly into the harbor, and detained us during the whole day. In the mornings the Rev. Mr. Spaulding CRiine on board, and continued with us for several hours, during which he gave us a very interesting address. He also gave a short account of the mission in Rio, in which he related some strikutg anecdotes, illustrative of the success with which his labors had been crowned. Before leaving, he commended us to God and to the word of His grace, in fervent prayer, and then, bidding us an affectionate farewell, lowered himself by a rope into a small skiff, which lay under the lee of the Lau- sanne, and was conveyed back to the shore. The season was one of deep interest, and kindred feelings palpitated every heart. And, as this fellow missionary left us to immure himself again in what is worse than heathenism itself, we could but invoke the God of battles to prepare his way, and sustain him with omnipotent grace, that he might witness more abundant success attending his la- bors, and finally see the man of sin fall to rise no more. The south wind had abated the next morning, and a land breeze was favorable for our leaving the harbor. ■ppvni VOYAGE TO OREGON. «8 in Consequently, after the customary. visits by government officers, we raised the anchor, and spreading our sails again to the wind, bid adieu to the dominions of Doii Pedro the second, and were soon tossed upon old ocean's billows, with our vessel's prow directed towards the cape of storms. The same morning, a French fleet of war of eight sail, weighed anchor, and passed majestically out of the harbor before us. This fleet was destined to join the blockading squadron before Buenos Ayres, and to Itojn- bard the city, provided the United Provinces did not comply with the imperious demands of the French. The first day out we had a violent storm ; the sea was very rough, and nearly every one of the passengers was called again to suffer with sea sickness. In the course of the storm the vessel encountered a number of mountain waves. At one time, through the carelessness of the helmsman, she plunged her bows so far into the water that her jib and flying jib went completely under, and when she rose, her flying jib b©om was carried away, and the sails were both rent into shreds from top to bot- tom. A table was set for dinner in the captain's cabin, and all the dishes were thrown clear from the table into the steward's locker, and dashed to pieces. The shock given to the vessel was exceedingly violent, and caused it to tremble in every joint. This was on Sunday. The following day the wind abated, and, changing a few points, became more favorable. For a number of sub- sequent days, a fine breeze wafted us rapidly onwards, and on Christmas day, at 12 o'clock, m., we were in latitude thirty-nine degrees, thirty minutes, south. This was the warmest Christmas we had ever seen, the thermometer ranging at eighty in the shade. Rev. Jason Lee delivered, on the occasion of Christmas, an appropriate discourse, on the subject of the advent of Christ. Wednesday, January 8th, 1840. For a number of days past we have been favored with a prosperous wind, and are now within four degrees of Cape Horn. Thus far, our way has been remarkably prospered. The mmmm 84 VOYAGE TO OREGON. weather is now very calm, with a eentle breeze from the north-west ; but we are approaching the region of storms, and can scarcely hope to double the Cape with the delightful weather we are now experiencing. Friday, 10th. According to our expectations, the slumbering winds were aroused, and ve began to expe- rience the difficulties of doubling Cape Horn. About 9 o'clock, A. M., a severe gale come down upon us with the most threatening violence. Every stitch of canvass was immediately taken in, and fo/ more than forty-eight hours we lay under the bare poles, the very sport of both wind and water. The gale was said by the captain to be one of the most violent he had ever experienced. Oh the 15th, the wind had so far abaved that we were able again to carry sail, but found b^ an observation at noon, that we had been driven several degrees out of our course. Monday, 27th. For many days past we have been baffled with contrary winds, and indeed this is the nine- teenth day since we have had any thing like a fair breeze. Our 'rourse has been west, but we have been compelled to run almost every point of compass, and the most of the time to contend with violent gales. In consequence of head winds we were carried nearly to the sixty-first degree of south latitude ; and Cape Horn being m the fifty-sixth, we were nearly three hundred miles south of the Cape. By an observation this day we found our longitude to be sixty-eight degrees, twelve minutes, which is a few miles west of the Diegoes. We have therefore left the Atlantic ocean, and are now on the waters of the Pacific. It is not common for vessels to be di'iven so far to the south in doubling the Cape. Perhaps the greater part pass round within sight of the Cape or the Diegoes ; but the only land discernible from our vessel, in the vicinity of the Cape, was States Land, which presented its lofty summit to our view the day before we experienced the commencement of the Cape Horn galas. Though it was midsummer, in the southern hemisphere, while we were doubling the Cape, yet at sixty-one degrees we found it excessively cold. Haii Emif-ifjgMgJumiHpi. 1 1. miiji,ma»»»!iHi-'r" TOTAOE to OREGON. 6ft frequently fell on deck, and though no icebet^ appeared in sight, It was judged, from the coldness ot the atmos- phere, that they were at no great distance. At this season of the year, in this latitude, the sun rises a few minutes after three and sets a few minutes before nine, and daylight scarcely disappears during the whole night. We have to proceed but seven degrees farther south, and the day will be one month long, at the sun's farthest decHnation south. During our long detention here, by successive stornis, we were frequently entertained by the appearance of the huge monsters of the deep, and a vast variety of the feathered tribes of the ocean. Whales, lashing the briny element, and spouting the huge spray high into the air ; f)orpoises, gambohng over the waves like flocks of ante- opes over the western plains ; the auk or penguin, which is a link connecting the feathered with the hnny tribe, with the albatros, stormy petrel, cape pigeon and many others, appeared from time to time around us, in large numbers, contributing much to amuse us, and diverting our attention even from the successive tempests, that howled around us for nineteen days. On the 28th, Providence again favored us with a fair wind, and enabled us to direct our course to the north, and for several days we were carried forward at the rate of seven and nine knots an hour. On the 8d of February, we found ourselves off the western entrance of the Straits of Magellan. Our passage round the Cape was a stormy one for the season of the year, but the winds and waves were under the control of the Almighty, who seemed to smile on our enterprise, and interpose in our behalf while naviga- ting the tempestuous waters of the southern ocean. We now steered our course for Valparaiso, on the coast of Chili, where we intended to take in water and other supplies. Our passage up the coast was barren of incident worthy of special notice, until the morning of the 18th, when our eyes were once mure delighted with the sight of land, the coast of Chili, about forty miles 3* 66 VOYAGE TO OREGON. w U" south of Valparaiso Head, presenting its dark outline! thirty miles distant over our starboard bow. The wind died away as we approached the shore, and we were consequently unable to proceed directly into port. A number of vessels appeared near us, bound to the same place, with one of which we had a friendly interview. She proved to be the brig Andes, of Liver- pool, for*y-eight days from Sydney, New South Wales. We had a shower of rain, with lightning, at ten o'clock, and the rest of the day were becalmed within ten miles of land. A dead swell bore us sioAvly towards the shore, and in the evening we could distinctly hear the surf of the ocean, breaking against the rocks. The captain manifested great anxiety, lest we might be dashed to pieces on the iron bound coast. At twelve o'clock at night a Ught breeze sprung up, and enabled us to remove to a safer distance from the shore. The following morn- ing, after the rising son had dissipated the fog that enveloped the siiore, tne high bluft's. called Valparaiso Head, appeared directly before us. A fresh ocean breeze sprang up, and bore us directly towards the harbor, and on our right appeared a beautiful bay. which washed a broad and delightful sandy beacn. Variety was given to the prospect, by the appearance of strange looking birds on the wing, passing from one side of the bay to the other. At noon we rounded Valparaiso Head, and the city, harbor, and shipping were spread out in full view before us. We dropped our anchor half a mile distant from the landing, and were immediately boarded by government officers, who examined us before permitting us to go on shore. A number of American gentlemen also came on board, and showed themselves remarkably polite and friendly. They informed us that- the small pox had made terrible havoc among he inhabitants of the place, especially the natives, but tha it had, in a measure, subsided. They said that all the loreigners who had been vaccinated, had entirely escapea, and that they did not apprehend there woulc be any danger in our going ashore, and purchasing what „,&;- VOYAGE TO OREGON. 61 ever necessaries we desired ; that there would be as much danger iu taking the disease from those who came on board from the shore, as from going on shore our- selves. Accordingly we came to the conclusion to act as though no fatal epidemic prevailed in Valparaiso, except that, on going ashore, we would avoid those places where the disease continued to rage most, espe- cially the hospital, presuming that, in our case also, vaccination would prove a safeguard against contracting the disease. Having attended to the preliminaries, a number of the passengers accompanied the captain on shore, and, upon landing, found the city of Valparaiso much as it appears to be on entering the harbor, very forbidding in its aspects. The streets are generally narrow, and badly paved, and the houses are generally low, being but one story. This is designed to preserve them from the destructive effects of the frequent earth- quakes, which take place along the Chilian coast. The city lies around a beautiful bay which constitutes its harbor, and is about one mile and a half long, and varying much in breadth in consequence of the moun- tains behind the city, which, in some places, extend down nearly to the shore of the bay. These mountains have been dug away at their base, so as to afford room for two or three tiers of buildings back from the shore. This space being filled, the inhabitants retired back on the sides of the mountains, where there are a number of contracted plains, which form eligible sites for building. Here a number of gentlemen, mostly foreigners, have erected their fine cottages, and live in princely style. But in the hill part of the city, as well as near the shore, there is but httle regularity or beauty. The number of inhabitants is variously estimated from eight to twelve thousand, among which are fifty Americans, and some English, Germans and French. The foreigners are by far the most interesting part of the population, and do nearly all the heavy business of the place. : The civil and political condition of the country was any thing but prosperous. The people were frequently breaking out in rebellion • the city was under marti«i| ^^^^^ iM»-'lS*."n«i.*.-Hfl»';-. : ;»^ , am. ^ v. m ! n t m VOYaOB to OREGON. law, and the whole country seemed to be verging to- wards a state of anarchy. It was the time of theii election, and such was tne excitement that prevailed, particularly among the peasantry, that it was extremely dangerous for foreigners to go far back from the city, as they were generally taken to be the enemies of the Republic, and were looked upon, by the Chilians, as their lawful prey. Robberies and murders were frequent and from the weakness and inefficiency of the govern- ment, were committed with impunity. However, the Chilians are quite partial to Americans, because they are citizens of a sister Republic. -. . , i vEX, The religion of the country is Romanism, wb'ch here exhibits itself in all its principles of intolerance and per* secution, as well as in its superstitions and bigotry. A circumstance or two, illustrative of the ignorance and superstition of the Chilian Papists, I will relate. At the time of the great earthquake, in 1822, which nearly destroyed the city of Conception, and greatly injured Valparaiso, when the shock was first felt in the latter, a large number of the inhabitants fled for safety to the Catholic cathedral, under the impression that Heaven would interpose in behalf of the sacred edifice, and pre- vent its destruction. To render themselves still more secure against the danger which threatened them, they took down the venerable images of St. Peter and St. Paul, from the places they had occupied from time immemoritil, and placed them as a guard at the door of the cathedral. The principal seat of the earthquake being in the sea, the water rushed from its bed into the city ; the foundations of the city trembled ; the earth heaved with convulsions, and the cathedral, with one tremendous crash, tumbled into a heap of ruins, and five hundred persons were either killed by the falling walls and timbers of the building, or drowned by the flood of waters that deluged the place. The shock sub- sided ; the waters returned to their place ; and the next day the images of Peter and Paul were found floating in the harbor. The indignant survivors took the image of Peter, he being the more guilty of the two, arid "'fpii VOYAGE TO OKEOON, 09 perforated a hole through his body, and pinned him upon the beach, at low water mark, as a punishment for his cowardice, and for deserting them in the hour of danger. As he abandoned them . to so awful a calajiiity, they abandoned him to the fury of the waves. - Although the laws of Chili do not tolerate any religion but Romanism, yet there is a minister of the English church in the ciiy, who is permitted to preach to the foreign residents without molest? tion. They will not permit a Protestant to preach in the language of the country; if one should attempt it, he would immediately be driven from their coast, or forfeit his life. As a mat- ter of course, there is but little chance for missionary operations among the people, except so far as the English, American and German I'osidents are concerned. Among these an intelligent, prudent, and devoted missionary, might render himself abundantly useful. But the time will come, notwithstanding the fierce opposition that now rages against Protestantism, when the vain mumme- ries of ropery must pass away, and the darkness that now shrouds the -people with a midnight gloom, shall be succeeded by the light of the glorious Sun of righteous- ness, which shall rise upon this benighted country with healing in his wings. *' The importance of Valparaiso lies in its eligible situa- tion for commerce, it being the entrepot for a great portion of the Republic of Chili. The high hills or mountains, which surround the city on three sides, and extend many miles back, are actually as barren as their appearance from the ocean indicates, affording but a scanty allowance of vegetation for a few sheep, goats, and donkeys. All the supplies of fruit, meat, vegetables, &c., for the city and shipping, are brought on the backs of mules and asses, from valleys which Tie from forty to a hundred miles distant ; and even the wood for fire, brickbats, tiles, and other materials for building, are brought in the same manner. With this description of the place, I nov/ proceed to relate a few adventures. Immediately on landing, we proceeded up through the city ; took a view of the ^ i«;'¥«W!re«vwttaHKi>»« joyed a lovely prospect of the city and surrounding country. Continuing our course, we passed a number of deep ravines, climbed a numl:)er of high bluff's, and came to the lighthouse, which stands on the summit of Valparaiso Head. From this place, we dis(;overed, near the shore, a cross erected on a rock, and approaching it, found that it was the sign of a burying ground, or rather a depository for dead bodies. In the language of scripture it might be called "Golgo- tha, the place of a skull ; " for the ground was literally covered with human bones. Here had been du^, deep hole about twelve feet square, into which those who had died with the small pox in the city, had been indiscrimi- nately thrown. They were conveyed here from the hospital, and other places, in carts and wheelbarrows, so soon as they were dead, and perhaps sometimes bo- fore ; and, uncoffined and unshrouded, were cast inlo \ Mi VOYAGE TO OREGON. 71 one common reservoir, where their bones viill mingle, undistinguished, till the resurrection morn. Turning from this sickening sight, we proceeded over a high point of land, and came down to the shore of a beautiful bay, which constituted a resort for a variety of sea fowl; and having refreshed ourselves with bread, and bathed in the ocean, we collected a few shells and other curiosi- ties, and turned our course backward towards the landing. Rising over a high and barren hill, in the rear of the city, wc entered a deep ravine, very narrow at the bot- ton, and forming a channel for a small rill of water. Each bank was covered with a spontaneous growth of the sage plant and other shrubbery, while, by the side of the brook, groups of females from the city were seen, wiio had resorted thither for the purpose of wash- ing their clothes. As we passed down the narrow path which had been cut into the almost perpendicular sides of the mountains, we met a large number of donkeys driven by natives, with two casks slung across each one of their backs for the purpose of conveying into the city- For some distance up this ravine, there are dwellings erected where there is sufficient room, and in maijy places small mud-walled cottages have been stuck into the side of the mountain, where places have been exca- vated for that purpose. This ravine led us directly into the back part of the city ; and, after taking a view of the cathedral, which had been rebuilt on the same site since its destruction by the earthquake, and collecting a few necessaries for the comfort of our families on oui continued voyage, v^e bid adieu to the Chilian coast, very unfavorably impressed as regards the condition of the country. One thing which particularly struck us on examining the city of Valparaiso and the country in its immediate vicinity, was :he wonderful discrepancy betwixt the name and the place. Valpai-aiso signifies Yale of Para- dise ; and certainly no word has ever been more abused than this, in its application to this place. Considering its irregularity; the narrowness and nlthiness of the streets ; the squalid appearance of many of its inhabitants ; the VOYAGE TO 0IU50CN. obscenity which presents itself in almost every direc tion ; the loathsome diseases which prevail , the ffloom} character of its religion, arid the barrenness of the sur rounding country, Valparaiso is well entitled to a re baptism, and might appropriately be called, the " Valle} of the Shadow of Deatli. " >•■,■, ■ >>-.*, ..^S' ...-: . ".- -■ -*„■>>:■ ^- '- ■■'• N^ -■'• .,. :■■^»•■ ■'.•,' ■ ■V''^''''';'..\'^"^i*^'^"'"' '':' '■ - " ;r;' CHAPTER IV. • Journal continued — Raising anchor — View of t.\o And«s - Brig — Tacific ocean rightly named — Capture of a sea monster — Uifliculiy among liie eailora — Spoken by a whaler — Captain Sawyer — Island of Mowi — Hawaii — Oahu — Honolulu — Remarks on the Island — Oahu and its city — Sabbath — Introduction to the royal family —Interview — Anniversary of the landing of missionaries — Visit to the Para — Battle ground — Kamchameha I. — Waiakiki — Valley of Manoah — Source of prosperity — Difficulty with the French — Arrogance of Captain La Place — Impression upon the Ilawaiians. On the morning of the 22d of February, we were all ready to proceed on our voyage, and commenced raising our anchor, but the anchor of a French barque getting foul of ours, we were obliged to raise both at the same time, and were consequently detained until four o'clock in the afternoon. At this time a land breeze favored our departure, and again unfurling our canvass to the wind, we directed our course for the Sandwich Islands. After we had proceeded a few miles from the shore, we enjoyed, from the deck of our vessel, a clear and distinct view of the towering Cordilleras. This astonishing range of mountains, which extends from the Isthmus of Darien to the Straits of Magellan, is situated here, sixty or seventy miles from the shore, and there is something peculiarly grand in their appearance at this vast distance; and surely a near view must be sublime beyond descrip- tion. Some of them present a white appearance, as if covered with snow, and others assume a sombre hue, representing the moral darkness which surrounds the whole country. Some of them lift their towering sum- mits far above the clouds, and seem to look down with contempt upon the storms which howl around their base. While contemplating this most stupendous range of mountains on the globe, a fine breeze from the south - i If- - * J Li VOYAGE TO OrrEGOW. filled our already expanded sails, and in forty-eight hours we had run four hundred miles. On Tuesday, the 25th, an American brig showed us the stars and stripes; we returned the compliment, and passed on. On the 28th, we passed into the torrid zone, but still found the weather comfortably cool, the mercury standing at sixty-seven dcgi'ees in the shade. The small pox not appearing among us the tenth day out, we con- cluded that all had escaped without catching the disease. For this indication of Providential care, we felt to offer unfeigned thanksgiving. The ocean which washes the western shore of the continent of North America, is pacific, both in name and nature. Nothing could exceed the pleasantness of oui sailing for twenty-five days after leaving Valparaiso. The wind was constant from the south-east, never strong, and consequently the ocean was smooth ; and, with Tittle perceptible motion, we were borne along from one to two hundred miles per day. On the 19th of March we re-crossed the equinoctial line at west longitude one hundred and sixteen degrees. We found the weather, in the region of the equator, not so warm as we anticipated, yet, at night, the heat in the cabin was somewhat oppressive; but during the day we were constantly fanned by the gentle and cooling breeze which wafted us onward towards our destination. On the 23d, the monotony of our voyage was broken in upon by the capture of one of the monsters of the deep. Two uncommonly large sharks appeared on our stern, attended by pilot fish, and a number albicores. The pilot fish is the jackal! of the lion of the deep, and it is said that the albicore usually follows in the train, for the purpose of sharing in the prey taken by the shark. We fastened a rope to a large shark hook, which wft baited with a piece of pork, and cast it into the sea. The sharks were soon attracted by it, and one of them seizmg the bait, the sailors drew upon the rope, and the hook fastened to his upper jaw, but it required several men to draw him up along side the ship, and it was necessary to rig a pulley belore he could be hoisted over "•>• VOYAGE TO OREGON. •75 the bulwarks on to the deck. As this was the first view we had had of a shark, no little curiosity was excited on board by his appearance among us. This curiosity was not satisfied until even the physiology of his sharkship was thoroughly investigated by dissection. One claimed his back bone, one his jaw bone, one his teeth, one his fins, and another his tail ; the remainder was cast back into the ocean, and soon devoured- In addition to the shark, there appeared, about the same time, two large sword fish, bounding out of the water, and showing their silvery sides, but we were obliged to be satisfied to view them at a distance, as they manifested no inclination to be captured. On the 24th, having passed through the region of variables, we were favored with a strong north-east trade, and, during one week, we sailed the distance of thirteen hundred miles; but, on the morning of the 31st, the weather became squally. This was supposed to be occasioned by our contiguity to a number of small islands, which lay to the windward of us. It had been the practice of some of the ministers on board, to preach occasionally to the sailors in the fore- castle, and, apparently, considerable good had been accomplished in this manner. Many of them had be- come very serious, and a few had professed to experi- ence a change of heart ; but a circumstance transpired on the 2,4th, which was as afflicting to all on board as it was injurious to the sailors. Charley, the sail maker,, a Dane by birth, being a pestilent fellow, though a favorite among the seamen, refused to perform, immediately, the pleasure of the mate, Mr. Farrington. The latter re- quired Charley to carry a musket from the bow of the ship back towards the stern, but not doing it so soon as it was supposed he ought, Farrington drew his fist, and smote Charley back of the ear, and knocked him on the windlass, so that he received a severe wound in the head. The blood ran freely; the sailors became much excited, and resolved that there should be no more preaching among them, but subsequently recalled this resolution, and allowed us to continue our instructions- MM* 76 TOYAOB TO OREGON. fc -4 They were a heterogeneous class, beinc comnoscd of Danes, Prussians, Germans, EngUsh, Irish and Yankees. On the 3d of April, we discovered a sail on our larboard quarter, about six miles off. She appeared desirous of speaking with us, and soon here appeared a speck on the water between the two vessels, which after a while could be distinguished as a whale boat approach- ing us. We luffed up to the wind, lud waited for hor to come along side. Soon she was under the lee of the Lausanne. She contained six men, two Americans, fme of whom was the captain, one African, and three Sand- wich Islanders. The captain came on board, and re- ported his ship as the whaler Fama, of Boston, seventeen months from home, and himself as Captain Sawyer. He appeared highly gratified to receive " news from home," though what we brought was nearly six months old. The Kanakas, or Sandwich Islanders, were stout, noble- looking fellows, and Mr. Dibble, tho Presbyterian mis- sionary, understanding the Hawaiian language, entered into conversation with them. He learned from them that both the king and queen of the Islands were con- verted, and had become members of the Church. He also learned that the king had removed his residence from Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, to Lahina^ on Maui, in consequence of the temptation to drunkeness which beset him in the former place, he having been intemperate previous to his conversion. This is a fine example for converted drunkards. Let them remove as far as possible from the cause of their ruin. Captain Sawyer, after having obtained a few potatoes and other vegetables, which are always a great rarity to whale- men a long time out, left us to pursue our course, and returned to his hazardous employment. Tuesday, the 8th, at eleven o'clock, the island of Maui presented its high bluffs to our view about forty miles to the south-west of us, making it forty-five days since we lost sight of the Chilian coast. We could also indistinctly see the high mountains of Owyhee, or Ha- waii, which, howevdr, were about seventy miles off. Between these two islands is a channel thirty miles VOYAGE TO OREOOK. 77 id of j> wide. On Hawaii is a burning mountain, which is eotisidered a ffreat curiosity. In consequence of a suc- cession of calms and squalls, we were detained off the i&.ands longer han we anticipated. For several days the weather was dark and gloomy, the sea ran hi^h, the rain fe'l in torrents, and we thought of the fate oi the Lark, which a as lost on the coral reef, which surrounds the island of Hawaii. In the evening of the 10th, however, we came iii sight of Morokai, another of the group; but not considering it safe to run down the channel in the night, we tacked ship and lay to the wind. The following morning the island of Oahu could be distinctly seen in the misty distance. This island presents an excellent waymark for navigators, "nd is known by one of its high moun- tains, which app< ars to rise out of the ocean in the form of a sugar loaf. At twelve o'clock of the 11th, we had Diamond Hill in ful! view before us, and there appeared something across a large bay which Mr. Dibble informed us was the city of Honolulu. Presently, we were abre ist of the city, though at the distance of four miles. The channel into the harbor being pointed out l>y Mr. Dibble, our course was directed towards it, and we were soon boarded by an old gentleman who acts as pilot for the harbor. In a few moments our and or was dropped in the roads outside the coral reef which encir- cles the island of Oahu. We immediately received a visit from the U. S. consul, Mr. Brinsmade, and Captain Stetson. The latter is the son-in-Inw of the Rev. John Lindsey, of New York, and resided on the island of Kauai. He had been waiting for uur arrival for five weeks. These two gentlemen, after paying their respects, returned to the shore, and provided accommo- dations for about twelve of the passengers for the following night. -:^^^: .:-y-^^.:^,4.i..-,^f^.-:^.'r:,i^ The next day, the vessel was brought into the inner harbor, and provision was made for a number of other families, but some were under the necessity of continu- mg on board over the Sabbath. On Monday, however, our indefatigable friends, the consul and Captain Stetson, :r flPHIF wmmmmr^mmmmmmi^ 78 VOYAGE TO OREGON* 111 M n HT succeeded in procuring comfortable lodgings for all the passengers during their stay on the island. The consul 18 a member of the Presbyterian church, and Captain Stetson is a member of the M. E. Church. Both, by their unremitting attention to our wants, secured our warmest affection. The members of the Presbyterian mission, and many of the foreign residents, extended to us that cordial hospitality which is seldom exhibited to a company of strangers. It fell to my lot, with my family, to be entertained by Mr, and Mrs. Johnstone, the teachers of Oahu Charity School, whose dwelling commands a fine view of the mountain scenery, the rolling surf, and the city and harbor of Honolulu. The Sandwich Islands are ten in number, Hawaii being the principal in extent and the number of its inhabitants, but Oahu first in point of commercial impor- tance. They once contained several hundred thousand inhabitants, but of late years, their population has greatly decreased. This, cloubtless, has been the result of their connexion with foreigners; and strange as it may appear, christian nations have introduced thoso means into the Sandwich Islands, that are destined to prove the destruction of the Hawaiian nation. Intem- perance, with its concomitant evils, threatens the ruin of these islands, but thanks to an overruling Providence, with the seeds of death, a conservative influence h^s been introduced. The cross of Christ has been erected on these shores, and thousands have rallied around it. There are forty families of missionaries scattered over these islands, who are supported by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, whose labors have been crowned with wonderful success. Of the one hundred thousand inhabitants which the islands now contain, seventeen thousand are members of the church, and Paganism has no existence in the group. The island of Oahu is about sixty miles long and forty broad, and contains a population of about twenty thou- sand souls. The city of Honolulu is by far the most noted place on the island, as it is the commercial empo- rium for the whole group. It is delightfully situated on VOYAGE TO OREGON. 79 the nsul tain our rian d to to my ling the a beautiful plain, and surrounded with the most enchant- ing scenery, variegated with ocean, hills, cloud-capped mountains, and rich and fertile vales. The climate is delightful, the mercury seldom rising above eighty-five degrees in the shade, nor sinking below forty. The number of the inhabitantn at present is about ten thousand, four hundred of whom are foreigners. Here are English, French, Americans, Chinese, Africans, &c. ; the most of tne foreigners, however, are Americans. Some of them have large mercantile establishments, and are extensively engaged in the sugar businests. The private dwellings of some of the citizens, both native and foreign, are well built, and richly 'furnished. The coral rock, which here abounds, is becoming extensively used for building, and makes an excellent material for that purpose. The buildings of the missionaries are principally of coral, well made, commodiously situated, and suitably furnished. The next Sabbath after landing, we attended the native church in which the Rev. H. Bingham officiatet*, and, to our astonishment, found collected about two thousand Hawaiians, to hear the word of the Lord. These were, nearly all of them, decently clad; a few, however, were almost entirely naked, but they all be- haved with becoming propriety, and the most strict attention was paid to the word dispensed. The preacher addressed them in the native language. The meeting house was built after the native style, being thatched with grass from the bottom to the top. The house, however, is getting out of repair, and another is being erected of coral, near this, which will seat, on the ground floor, when completed, three thousand persons. Besides this, there is another native church in the city, of which the Rev. Lowell Smith is pastor. This has been built but two years, and the congregation num- bers from twenty to twenty-five hundred. There is also a Bethel chapel, commodiously fiituated, which was erected by the Seaman's Friend SocietVj and is under the pastoral care of the Rev. Mr. DieU, who was absent from his charge on account o5 ill health. 8i» mMmM^-Mim it 1 » r Thk yvas occupied every Sabbath by the Methodist missionaries during their continuance on the island. Through the influence of Mr. Brinsniade, we were all favored with an introduction to the royal family. One hour previous to the time appointed for our inter- view, we collected at the American Consulate, which ivS situated about one half mile from the king's house, and, at the time specified, marched down through the city towards the fort, where we were met by a soldier, who conducted us to the audience chamber. We were intro- duced into a room of some twenty feet square, spread ■with Chinese carpeting, and well furnished with tables, chairs, sofas, 6lc., for the accommodation of visitors. The king and his suite were not present when we entered, out being informed of our arrival, the formei soon made his appearance, attended by the governor of OahUj and a very large and dignified woman who had l»een the wife of two kings, and who then officiated aa his majesty's prime minister, and her Uttle son, of some eight years of age, who was heir apparent to the throne. They received us with much grace and dignity, and bidding us welcome to their shores, assured us of their friendship. The object of our expedition being explained bv the consul, and interpreted to the king by the Rev,. Mr. Richards, both the king and his premier expressed their astonishment and admiration, and said that they ardently desired that we mi<^ht be prospered in our enterprise. They pronounced our cause "good," and proffered their hospitalities while we were with them, and their continued aid in the prosecution of our work. Our superin tenders t, the Rev. Jason Lee, addressed his majesty through the interpreter, relative to our mis- sion in Oregon, and proposed an exchange of the produce of that country, consisting of flour, fish, beef, A-c, for the products of the Sandwich Islands, consisting of sugar, molasses, coffee, indigo, &c., to which the king seemed heartily to concur, and said vhat he was very much pleased with the idea. This conversation being closed, the conad gave signs that it was time to retire, and accordingly we all arose, and passing round the room. Hi mmmmm m VOYAGE TO OREGON. 81 onR after another, shook hands with the king, his min- ister and her son, and departed, highly gratified with our interview with the royal family of the Hawaiian nation. Here were displayed none of the pomp and 'Wrappings of royalty, none of the parade and ceremony piually exhibited in the courts of kings. But every thing, the apartments, furniture, and apparel of the royal family, partook of that neatness and simplicity worthy the supreme head of an infant and dependent 'jation. The king was dressed in blue broadcloth, mado ap in the English style, with epaulettes on his shoulders and a miniature crown on the lapel of his coat. He is distinguished by the title of Kamehameha the Third. On Monday, tht 19th, the twentieth anniversary of the landing of the first missionaries on the island of Oahu, was celebrated at the house of Rev. H. Bingham, who was one of the pioneers in the business of evange- lizing these islands of the ocean. The season was rendered interesting by many hallowing associations. K. short history of the Sandwich Island mission was given by Mr. Bingham, and, in view of the astonishing -esults of missionary labor, as seen in the elevation of the Hawaiian nation, from the deepest degradation of neathenism, to the enjoyment of the blessings of Chris- tianity and civilization, surely we had reason to exclaim, in the language of Moses, " What hath God wrought ! " On Thursday, the 92d, we visited what is called, in the language of the country, the Para, about eight miles east of Honolulu. We were accompanied by the consul, Captain Carter, Captain Grimes, Dr. Judd and lady, and Mrs. Hooper. At half past nine we had all moimted our horses, which had been provided for our use, and, 'ed by the consul, proceeded out of the city, like a troop of cavalry, on the round gallop ; and taking a winding oath, we soon found ourselves on a contracted plain, with huge mountains on our right and left, rising some thousands of feet high, their lofty heads being orna- mented with caps of fleecy clouds. Presently we entered a dark thicket, and found the path so narrow and difficult, that it was impossible to 82 VOYAGE TO OREGON. 1.1 oroceed but by single file, and at a very slow pace. After descending and ascending a number of almost perpendicular banks, where some of the ladies found it very difficult to keep to their saddles, and fording a small rivulet which dashed through the thicket, we came into a small opening, overgrown with grass, and within a few rods of the Para. Here we dismounted, and leaving our horses in the care of some Kanakas, who had placed themselves here for that purpose, proceeded on foot to view the object of our curiosity. Soon we found ourselves on the brink of a frightful precipice several hundred feet high, and almost perpendicular, down which there are steps cut ,• f^ rock to enable persons to ascend and descend in su.ety. This is the only place where it is possible for persons to pass from one side of the island to the other without making the circuit of the shore, and this pass has been always con- sidered remarkably diflioult and dangerous. But in 1837, Mr. Alanson Beers, a blacksmith, who accompanied one of the former expeditions to Oregon, made an important improvement in this pass, by fixing firm into the rock, a railing of iron for some distance down the steepest part of the descent. This Para is six hundred feet above the level of the ocean, descending to the north-east abruptly until you arrive at a plain, which extends about three miles to the shore, and which supports a population of more than five thousand people. The appearance of this plain from the top of the Para, dotted with the adobe- walled cottages of the islanders, and near the centre of which M'^as pointed out the dwelling of the Rev. Mr. Parker, and the church where listening hundreds are taught the way to heaven, is truly delightful ; and, with the grandeur of the mountain and ocean scenery, is a full compensation for the labor and difficulty of visiting the place. This Paxa is noted, not only for the sublime natural scenery by which it is surrounded, but also for its inte- resting historical associations. Here terniinated one of .the bloodiest wars that ever desolated these islands. J Having satisfied our curiosity, we reitjipuuted, rode m^'mmmmmsmsmmmsssssss^ IS a :i M»« i S -i«« Maa w-: «At*E TO OREGONi over the battle ground, stopped to take a view of a beautiful cataract, and returned to a house owned by the consul, and situated about two miles out of the city, where we sat down to a sumptuous repast. Here we spent a social hour, until the heat of the day had passed, and then, taking to our horses, galloped back to the citj'-, well pleased with our excursion. On Saturday, the 25th, rode up to Waiakiki, about three miles, where there is a beautiful cocoanut grove; from thence to the valley of Manoah, by way of the Chinese tombs, passing the country residence of the Rev. H. Bingham. This valley is exceedingly fertile, and nmch frequented by visitors, on account of its de- lightful mountain scenery. In this valley is situated the old palace, the residence of some of the former kings. It is a small thatched cottage, surrounded by a dense grove of fruit trees, resembUng in appearance the apple tree. The building is in a very dilapidated condition, and constitutes the habitation of bats, mice, and other vermin. On returning to the city, we were informed that the vessel would leave the harbor of Honolulu foi her destination on the morning of the 28th. This gave us but little time to extend our observations ; but from the few we were able to take, we were favorably im- pressed with regard to the importance of the Sandwich Islands. Doubtless the prosperity of these islands has depended, and still depends, mainly upon the whale ships that annually flock to their ports. The people of the islands, both native and foreign, had not recovered from a feverish excitement into which they had recently been thrown by the belligv rent attitude in which a French man of war presenteu itself before Honolulu. The principal oftences against France, of vdiich the Frenchman com})lalned, were, first, that the H iwaiians had refused to admit French Roman. Catholic missionaries to land on the islands, when Protestant misiiionaries had always been allowed that privilege ; and, second, that the Hawaiian government had passed a law prohib'ting the introduction of French brandy. For these crimes^ France resolved to call the wicked VOYAGE TO OREGON. Hawaiians to an account ; and, consequently, so soon as the frigate arrived, which had been sent to compel the Hawaiians to submission, the French commander, Capteiin La Place, in the most menacing form, sent the king word that he had a certain number of hours to select between two alternatives. First, Roman Catholic missionaries must be admitted without restraint; the landing of French brandy in any quantities must be allowed ; and the Hawaiian government must pay to the French an indemnity of twenty thousand dollars; or, second, the favorite town of the islanders must suffer all the horrors of a bombardment, with the prospect of an entire subjugation to the French. For awhile the king hesitated whether to be buried amidst the ruins of his country, or submit to the unjust and arrogant claims of the French, but, through the influence of his counsel- ors, finally preferred the latter alternative. The name of the frigate was the Artimese, and she was commanded by Captain La Place. This unhappy ulterview betwixt the French and Hawaiians left the unpression on the minds of the citizens of Honolulu, both native and foreign, that France will take the first re^i- sonable opportunity, to reduce the islands to subjeotr>a. IRHl;! mm* riiiiia i ii i ^rTrwitl i iiW aiiM i mi i iawi>M>>iraii ii i ■llii|i«iNil«n mmmSsmsmm Chapter v. fourn»i continued — Depanure from Honolulu — Slow progreas — Fresh breeza • Coast of Oregon — Old pilot — Captain delirers up the Tewsel — Crossing tan fearful ^ar — Deep anxiety — Cast anchor in Baker's Bay — Rer. Uanial l^ee — Chcnook Indians— Clatsopa— Ascend the river— Fort George — Run aground — Difficulty of ascending — Arrival at Vancouver — Meeting called — Misaionariea receive their appointments — Sent off' to their stations — First encampment in Oregon — Ascending the Wallameite in canoes — Turn Water — Portage — Cham poeg — Horseback ride — Arrival at the Mission Station. According to arrangements, on Tuesday morning, the 28th of xipril, at nine o'clock, we were all assembled at the United States Consulate, with many of our newly made friends of Oahu, who had endeared themselves to us by their unwearied kindness and hospitality, awaiting the preparation of boats to convey us to the ship. Soon all was in readiness, and taking an affectionate leave of our attendants, we were quickly on board the Lausanne. The winds were favorable, the sails were unfurled to the breeze, and we moved slowly out of the harbor through a winding channel, which the God of nature has formed through the mighty reef of coral nearly encircling the island. For several days after leav'ng Oahu, we were obliged to run close upon the wind, and, consequently, made but slow progress. Our course was north-east from the islands to the mouth of the C >lumbia river, and conse- quently the north-east trade was a head wind. So soon, however, as we reached the tliirtieth degree ot north latitude, a fresh breeze from the west wafted us on ai the rate of one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles per day. In addition to the usual subjects of interest at sea, consisting of whaJes, sharks, porpoises, dolphins, alba- *li I'll • '\ im i\ 86 VOYAGE TO OREGON. treses, &c., the company were entertained, for a succe* sion of evenings, by a course of lectures, delivered by the Rev. Jason Lee, on the subject of the Oregon mis- sion, embracing its first establishment, and the proper course to be pursued to advance its future prosperity. While thus employed, the winds of heaven were propi- tious, and we were rapialy approaching the coast of Oregon. At ten o'clock on the morning of the 21st of May, the western coast of North America, which is washed by the great Pacific ocean, that land towards which we had been directing our course for upwards of seven months, presented itself before us. Cape Disap- pointment appeare.1 on our leeward quarter, and Point Adams on our bow. Considering the direction of the wind, the vessel could not have been placed more favor- ably for entering the mouth of the Columbia river. Wind and tide both favoring us, preparations were immediately made for crosshig the dreaded bar of the Columbia. Captain Spauiding found an old sailor at Oahu, who had spent some time at the moith of the Columbia, a number of years before, and who said he was well acquainted with the channel across the bar. This man the captain had taken the precaution to bring with him, to act as pilot on entering the river ; and, accordingly, on approaching land, the captain surren- dered the vessel into the hands of the old pilot. The latter went aloft, and issued his orders from the fore top mast head. All was anxiety on ship board, as it was cried by the man with the sounding line, "five fathoms and a half," for we then knew that we were passing over the fearful bar, and that very soon we should experience Jie fate of a number of vessels, which, years before, had pursued the same track but to rush to inevitable destruc- tion, or, be quietly moored in the placid waters of the bay, behind the projecting cape. Soon the water deep- ened to seven and nine fathoms, and the captain observed, " We have reason to congratulate ourselves on having crossed the bar of the Columbia in safety, and are now steering our course for Baker's Bay." And surely alJ fell heartily to acquiesce in the sentirnciit, as we slowiv »»r!asai»m»!9 VOYAOj:'. to OREGON. Si passed around the point of Cape Disappointment, and dropped our anchor on American ground. The Enghsh barque Vancouver, lay at anchor in the bay, waiting for a fair wind to put out to sea. So soon as we anchored, Captain Duncan, from the barque, came on board, and informed us that we had made at least one " hair breadth escape," as we came within a cable's length of running on to a sand bank, where the William and Ann were wrecked a few years before. He also informed us that he had just come down the river from Fort Vancouver; that Rev. Daniel Lee, and Mr. W. H. Wilson, who were members of the Oregon mission, were at tlie fort when he left, and that the people gene- rally wera anxiously awaiting our arrival. A few hours after we came to anchor, an Indian canoe appeared, coming down the river, with a number of persons in it, and seemed to be directing its course towards us. While several miles off we could see, through the telescope, that there was one white man, with about a dozen In- dians, ill the canoe, and when they approached so near as to determine who we were, they set up a loud shout for joy at our arrival. Soon they came along side, and to our great satisfaction, we were saluted bv the Rev. Daniel Lee, who had left his station at the Dalls, and come down the river to visit the Chenooks, and preach to them. Though thirty miles above the mouth of the river, yet he discovered our sail, as we passed over the bar, and, supposing us to be the reinforcement expected, he resolved to hasten down and ascertain the fact. Rev. Daniel Lee is a nephew of the Rev. Jason Lee. They had performed a perilous journey together across the Rocky mountains; had endured together the trials of missionary life in Oregon ; and as they had been separated for more than two years, one remaining in Oregon, and the other recrossing the Rocky mountains, and then doubling Cape Horn, the circumstances of their meetina were of no ordinary interest. The sensations realized cannot well be described. The uncle and nephew embraced each other, and wept. Their teari were tears of joy, mingled with grief— joy, that afteif B.-^'memmmmt^m^mmiimmivia iui 1 1 88 VOYAGE TO OREGON !iJ SO long a separation, and the endurance of so many hardships, they enjoyed the privilege of seeing each other's face — joy, that a kind and merciful Providence had preserved us during our long and tedious voyage, and had brought us in safety to this distant shore — joy, that the Lord had poured out His spirit in Oregon, and that many of the Indians had been converted : but grief, that since their separation in Oregon, some of the pio- neers of the cross in this land of darkness, had been taken from the scene of their labors and usefulness; a grief mitigated by the consideration, that they died as the christian dies, happy and triumphant. Towards evening a number of Indians of the Chenook tribe came on board, among whom were some of the nobility, one of the principal chiefs, whose name was Chenamus, and his wife, whom they called the queen, being of the number. Most of them were very small in size, and very poorly clad, some of them not having sufficient clothing to cover their nakedness. The chief had nothing on but a blanket, which he wrapped around him, but the queen had on a calico dress, a neckerchief, and a red woolen shawl. Soon they were reinforced by the arrival of a band of Indians from the south side of the river, called the Clatsops, who were very savage in their appearance, some of them being painted in the most hideous manner. Thej collected together on the fore part of the deck, and commenced singing and dancing in the most fantastic style. Four persons en- gaged in the dance, and as one got weary and retired, another would step in and carry it on. They appeared to enjoy it exceedingly, and doubtless supposed that they were atfording us the highest gratification in celebrating our arrival among them. Many of them continued on board during the night, and though it was very cold, some slept in their open canoes which lay along side the vessel, with noth'ng around them. Their appearance, as they lay shivering in the cold, was truly deplorable. These, we learned, were slaves, and were not allowed by their masters to come on the deck. Surely, thought we, if 9 ly hwnaan beings in the \yorld need the sympa tmm vV '.mis^ssm mimuum mm m bii ihi ii.* « iiwi« h iiii ; i i» i iw««»«n«. U2 rOYAOE TO OREGOlf. '•f labor of many years to elevate these Indians from the depth of their pollution into a civilized and christian T>eople. The falls are about thirty feet perpendicular, (beautiful indeed, affording almost unlimited hydraulic privileges, yet the Indians held the place in unmolested control. The Hudson's Bay Company, however, had built a small block-house on the left bank, as we ascend the river, for their accommodation, in passing up and down. Here we were obliged to make a portage of half a mile, which occupied us till nearly night ; and we found it exceedingly fatiguing to carry all our things over the rocks, for half a mile, on our backs. We had accomplished it, however, at five oclock, and proceeding up four miles farther, we made our second encampment on Rock Island, having traveled but twenty-five miles since morning. The weather being fine, we enjoyed another comfortable night, and the following day, at one o'clock, p. M., arrived at Champoeg, which is the lower part of the settlement on the Wallamette river. The mission station was sixteen miles above, and, according to arrangement, horses were sent down to meet us. They arrived at three o'clock, and at four all were mounted, several of us taking children or. before us, and the cavalcade started off upon a gallop over the plains. As we were well mounted, Mrs. Hines and myself took the lead, and passing over the most delightful country that we ever beheld, two hours and a half brought us hito the midst of three little log houses which stood on the banks of the river, and known as the principal station of the Oregon mission. Here we arrived in safety on the 16th day of June, J 840, and were cordially welcomed by the missionaries on the ground, a id made as comfortable as their ^ircum- stanc'is would admit. Remaining two days in the family of Rev. David Leslie, I then took possession of a small room in a house aboul one mile from the station, built for a mission hospital, where we again commenced keeping house, and where I designed my family to remain until I had performed an exploring tour through the country of the Unmquas. II :*«;; CHAPTER VI. BxiMBrIng tour to the I'mpqua— Preliminaries — Departure — Delijihtful country — Encampment — Amusini^ incident — Fording river — Mountain La BcHChe — Eilc river — IJmpqua fori — Indian fight — Frenchman in charge — Meeting with the Indians —Old chief's confession — Hostile Indians — Danger of going amopg them — Resolved lo go — Voyage to the coast — Indians accompany ua — Inte- resting encampment — Indians on the coajsl — Meeting with them — Sperches of the chiefs — Results of tliu meeting — Talk to God — Solicitude of our Pro- tectress — Watching — Presents — Departure — Description of the country — Return to the fort — Story of the Frenchman's wife —Dangers we liad '"caped — Perilous adventures of the mountaineers — Tour continued — Mountainous country — Fording Elk river — Giant tree — Aromatic tree — Umpqua Indians — Head chiefs — Shocking story — Burst of heaihen passions — Difficulty with guide — Settled — Fear of treachery — Confirmed — Requent of We-We — Re- fused — Warning — An Indian can be honest — Unhappy resulta of not trusting him — Night — Lost in a forest — Sabbath — Indians again — Homeward route — Fine country — Delightful scenery — Home. . Some time in the winter of 1837, before Rev. Mr. liee left Oregon to return to the United States after a reinforcement, he visited the Umpqua tribe of Indians for the purpose of ascertaining their number and situa- tion ; but it being in that season of the year when it is next to impossible to explore the country, in consequence of the abundance of water which every where pres^ents (tself in the way of the traveler, he could not exiend his own personal observations far, but was under th«>i necessity of depending for information concerning the objects of his visit, upon the few Indians with whom he came in contact on his route, and a Frenchman who had cliarge of a trading post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and situated on the Umpqua river. Such was the information given and the confidence reposed therein, that Mr. Lee, before going to the States, had come to the determination that, if the mission was again rein- forced, he would establish a station somewhere in the yi TOUR TO THE UMPCiCA. I ill' !l 8 1 vicinitjr of Uinpqua fort. Accordingly Mr. Kone and myself were appointed to Istbor as missionaries among the Umpqua Indians. As Mr. K. was a millwright by trade, it was intended by Mr. Lee to retain him for some months on the Wallamette, to assist in the erection of the mission mills ; and that I should proceed and explore the country, select a location for the station, and prepare for the removal of our familicH. Hearing reports from that country of a discouraging character, Mr. Lee resolved to accompany me on the tour, and satisfy himself with regard to the propriety of carrying out his original design. It should be understood that the Umpqua country lies to tne south of the Columbia river, about two hundred and twenty-five miles. The river which gives its nam*; to the country, rises in that ridge of mountains whi(^h divides the lower from the upper country, and after running about two hundred miles, empties into the Pacific ocean near the forty-third parallel of north latitude. It waters quite an extensive country, as yet to white men bi^t little known. Having made arrangements for the comfort and safety of our families in our absence, we found ourselves prepared to start on our tour on the 18th day of August, 1840. Our party consisted of Rev. Jason I^ee, Dr. Elijah White, myself, and an Indian guide, whom we designated by the name of " Captain." Dr. White, however, designed to accompany ua no farther than the Umpqua fort, and then return. Our mode of traveling, of course, was on horseback; and, in addition to our riding horses, we had three for carrymg our bag- gage, and four spare ones, that in case of the loss or failure of any, we might not be left destitute. This is a precaution indispensably necessary to be taken by all who would secure their ultimate safety in traversing the extended plains of this wild country. As this was the first prairie expedition with which I had ever been con- nected, it was necessary for me, at the outset, to learn the peculiarities of the mode of traveling; and, as Mr. Lee had performed two journeys across the Rocky mountains, he was well qualified to be my instructor. TOUR TO THE I'MPQCA 05 Watching Mr. Lee closely while he was packing our bedding, provisions and cooking utensils, on the backs of the horses, I soon observed that it required considerable skill and practice to wind the lash rope around the pack and the body of the horse, so as to secure the burden to the back of the animal in case of fright, titumbling, or running against any obstruction, all of which, in the process of binding the packs, it is necessary to guard against with the utmost precaution. Mr. Lee having magnified his ollice as our instructor, by packing the three horses himself, we all mounted, and each man with his gun athwart of the pommel of his saddle, our little cavalcade put off, on a moderate gallop, across the beautiful and fertile plain, lying in the rear and south of the mission premises. At noon we arrived at a place called by the Indians, Chemekete, where the Oregon mission have commenced erecting mills, and where it is in contempla- tion to establish the Mission Manual Labor School. This place is ten miles up the Wallamette river from the old mission station, ^nd is one of the most delightful locations in the whole valley. The fertile plains surrounding it, the enchanting nature of its scenery, and the fine water privilege afforded by the beautiful rivulet that meanders through it, render it a place of considerable future importance. Having dined with the family of W. W. Raymond, who is employed in forwarding the saw mill, we proceeded on our course, being south, through a country beautifully diversified with rising grounds, vary- ing from the gentle undulation to the majestic hill, fertile valleys, variegated with here and there a grove of a species of red oak, and now and then a stately fir which had braved the fury of a thousand storms. Oc donally could be seen the fallow deer and prairie wolves, scam- pering in almost every direction, as we passed along the narrow Indian trail, which, in its serpentine course^ led us farther and farther from our habitation. At nightfall we encamped near one of the tributaries of the Walla mette river, called " Santa Am's Fork." This is a fine stream of water, being several rods wide, and coming down ^ri':m the mountains of the east, it is said to form a 9S TOUR TO THE UMP<)VA. I<^- number of beautiful cascades, while the fine timber adorning its banks, and the extended plains of arable land on each side, hold out strong inducements to the emi grant to erect his cabin upon its fertile shores. How- ever, the bottom lands along this river, though appearing exceedingly fine at this season of the year, when the water is Tow, give evidence that, in the winter, they are often overflown. Here we found a species of yellow pine, similar to the Norway pine, it being the first I had seen in the country, but we reposed for the night under the branches of a majestic fir, and our trusty horses cropped the wild grass of the prairie around us, while we slept. Six O'clock the next morning found us prepared to resume our journey, and at twelve we had traveled twenty miles, when we stopped for dinner, on one of the numerous streamlets which water the Wallamette valley. Re-packing our animals, after resting two hours, we traveled, in the evening, about ten miles, and encamped ifor the night by the side of a small pool of water, in the centre of a large prairie. The country through which we passed during the day, was exceedingly flat. Some parts of it were quite low, and subject to inundation from the rapid rise of the Wallamette river. The prai- ries had been all overrun with fire a short time previous, and it was with difficulty that we could find sufficient feed for our horses. However, around the pool the grass was so green that th« fire had passed it by, and this rendered it a suitable place to spend the night, particularly for our animals. There was something very pecuhar about this pool. It embraced a superficial area of some ten rods of ground, with no visible inlet or outlet, and it was several miles from any other water, though the water in the pool was nearly upon a level with the surrounding land. It was also literally filled with frogs, there being at least five to every square foot. We spread our bed where the grass was abundant, but soon after lying down we were disturbed by a some- what novel circumstance. I began to feel a gentle stir directly under my back, though for some time I made TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 97 no mention of it, not vet deciding what it might be. But as the effort beneath me continued as though some living being was thrown into convulsions through suffo- cation, I at length cried out that there was some living creature under my blanket. The "Captain" understand- ing me, exclaimed, " A snake ! a snake !" I sprang in- stantly to my feet, seized my blankets, and scattered my bed around the prairie, and, to the no small amusement of our party, out jumped a large bullfrog, and made his best leaps to get back into the pool. August 20th. We arose in the morning invigorated by epose, and traveling twenty-five miles, at one o'clock we arrived at the place on the Wallamette river where we designed to cross, our trail having been on the easi side of the river. In approaching the stream, we found the trail exceedingly difficult, especially for cur pack horses, as it led us through a dense forest of cottonwood and swamp maple, but at length we emerged from it in safety, and found ourselves on the river's brink. Exa- mining the ford, we found the river too deep, and the current too strong, to admit of our crossing our pack horses in safety, and discovering an Indian below us, in his canoe, we beckoned to him to come up to us, which he accordingly did. He appeared very shy at first, as he was entirely naked, not having so much clothing on as an apron of fig leaves, but after a while we induced him to take our things into his canoe, and carry them across the river. Dr. White accompanied him, while Mr. Lee, myself, and the " Captain," crossed over the horses. The water was up to the animals' backs, and the current so strong that we feared it would bear us down; but, with the exception of getting thoroughly wet, we gained the opposite shore without difficulty. Here we took some refreshments, and then continued our way over a delightful plain fifteen miles in extent, and at night stopped on the California trail, at a place which, by the numerous fires which had been built around, we judged was often used as an encampment. This is the great trail extending through from Upper f. ! i- ' 08 TOUR TO THE UMPQUA i- i California to the Columbia river, and passes through the valley of the Wallamette, on the west side of the river. Friday, 21st. After traveling about twenty miles over a rolling country, presenting almost every variety of scenery, we halted for dinner on a small stream called " Bridge river," on account of a log bridge having been thrown across it, by some California party. This stream runs in a deep cut, and, but for the bridge, would have been difficult to cross. In the afternoon we passed over the mountain " La Beache," (Elk mountain,) which con- sists of a vast assemblage of hills thrown together in wild confusion, and covered with a heavy forest of fir and cedar trees. The latter is the most stately and majestic timber of the kind I have ever seen. Some of the trees are from from ten to fifteen feet in diameter, and tower- ing to an incredible height. On beholding them, one is reminded of the scripture account of the cedars of Lebanon. It required three hours to cross this mountain, and as we descended '♦ to the south, we found the fire making sad havoc with the fine timber with which its sides were adorned. In some places it raged so hard along the trail, that it was quite difficult for us to pass; but, uiging our way along, we arrived at sun down at Elk river, and camped on a beautiful plain on its south bank. Saturday, 22d. Leaving the California trail we took a path that bore farther to the west, which followed the direction of the Elk river. During the day we passed over an exceedingly mountainous country. Some of the hills were rocky and precipitous, and it was with great difficulty that we were able to keep our balance on the narrow path among the rocks, that, in its zigzag course, marked our way up and down their almost per- pendicular sides. Mr. Lee remarked that in crossing the Rocky mountains, there was nothing that would bear any comparison with the difficulty and roughness of our trail through the Umpqua mountains. But urging our way along, now plunging into the deep ravine, now •caling the high ledge of rocks, now climbing the preni >»•?»« ■x'rt " - , . -no: TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 09 pitous mountains, now descending into the »lark valley, and fording Elk river over the slippery rocks not less than five times, at two o'clock, p. m., we found ourselves on the banks of the Umpcjua river, opposite of the fort. We stripped our horses of their packs and saddles, and turned them loose to roam at large on the north side of the river, until we performed a voyage to the coast; and, crossing over in a canoe, we were kindly received at ihe fort by an old Frenchman, having charge of it, by the name of Goniea. We were made welcome to all the comforts the place afforded. This fort, or rather trading post, stands on the south bank of the Umpqua river, on a little plain comprising about two hundred acres of land, thirty of which are under cultivation. It is forty miles from the Pacific ocean, and advantageously situated for the purposes for which it was established, namely, the collection of beaver and other furs from the Indians along the coast and in the interior. The fort itself consists of three or four little log huts built on three sides of a square, and covered with cedar bark.. These huts are stockaded by poles set in the ground, and rising twelve feet high; and at two opposite corners of the enclosure thus formed, there are two bastions commanding all sides of the fort, and containing means for the defense of the estabHsh- ment against the attacks of the Indians who are fre- quently quite troublesome in this region. Not long since the place was attacked by a band of savages, outnumbering ten times the inmates of the fort, but after a long fight, in which no one was killed, and but two or three of the Indians were wounded, the latter were compelled to retreat. The Frenchman in charge, it is said, belongs to a wealthy and honorable family in Montreal, and though frequent offortG have been made to reclaim him from his wanderings, and induce him *o return to his family and friends, yet all have been unavaihng. Such is the power of habit with him that he now prefers a life but little in advance of the wretched savages that surround him, to all the olegance and refinements of the most civilized jOO TOUR TO THE VMPQUA. IM ■.■ i r 11 ;, I '.\\ i' "ociety. He lives with an Indian woman whom he calls his wife, and who belongs to a tribe that reside on the coast, near the mouth of the Umpqua river. Sunday, 23d. A good night's rest on a bed of Macki- naw blankets, and a liberal supply of boiled pork and ])Otatoes, furnished by our Indian hostess, wonderfully recruited us after the fatigues of our journey. We found no Indians around the fort except a small band ol twenty-five Calapooahs from the Wallamette valley. These we collected in one of the huts within the stock- ades, and Mr. Lee addressed them in the jargon of tlie country, concerning the things which belong to theii peace, and the chief interpreted it to his people. They seemed to be much interested, and were ready to promise that they would all become good. The chief confessed that his people had formerly been guilty of adultery, but said he had stopped all that a year ago; that he allowed himself to have two wives still, but that he meant to put one of them away as soon as he returned. As we expected to pass through his country on our return, we engaged to meet him and his people on a certain day, and give them another " talk." Monday, 24th. Dr. White and the "Captain" left ua and returned to the Wallamette, and Mr. Lee and myself started in a canoe, to visit the Indians at the mouth of the Umpqua river. We had been informed by Mr. Goniea that there would be great danger in our goir^ among them alone, and, indeed, he appeared to stand in the utmost fear of them. Of their hostility to the whites, and especially the Americans, we were ourselves aware, as thev had in more than one instance attacked them, and at one time in particular they cut off an entire party of fourteen men who were coming through from California to Oregon, except three persons, who fortu- nately escaped to tell the story of the massacre of their companions. But Providence seemed to favor our design of going among them. On Sunday afternoon, a brother of the Frenchman's wife, with a small party of Indians from the coast, arrived at the fort, having come up the i;iver in a canoe. A/ter having an interview w^ith them jtBisa^^ Se«*rBWHatM«J TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 101 ain " left us wc proposed to the Frenchman that his wife, who, wo learned, was a relative o( the principal chiefs of the tribe, should take us under her protection, and with her brother and his party, conduct us to their people. To this the Frenchman consented, saying, "now the danger is small, before it was great." According to arrange- ment, at ten o'clock, a. m., we put out with our light canoe into the rapid current of tiio Umpqua. We ran a number of r.arrow shoots where the current is at least twelve knots an hour, and in some instances shot past the rocks which projected into the stream within six inches, with the velocity of an arrow. But our Indians — seven in number — showed themselves to be on their proper elemen* by the astonishing dexterity with which they ran the dangerous rapids with which the river abounds. Fifteen miles below the fort, the river rushes over a ledge of rocks in a number of narrow channels, and falling about twenty-five feet in so many rods, forms a fine salmon fishery. Here we found, crowded into four small lodges, about one hundred Indians, exceedingly squalid in their appearance, and subsisting entirely on fish. Our Indian protectress, who also officiatea as inter- preter, informed them who we were, and for what purpose we had come among them, with which they seemed to be highly pleased, baying it was good; and as we passed on, nine of them, five men and four women, jumped into a large canoe, for the purpose ol' accom- panying us down the river. Having thus increased our company more than half, we proceeded on our voyage, contemplating the barba- rous appearance of both animate and inanimate nature around us, until the gathering shadows reminded us that night approached ; and running our canoes in along the right hand shore, we at length found a place sufficiently broad, from the river to the base of the mountain, to admit of our encamping, and here we pitched our tent for the night Our Indians soon struck up two good fires, one for themselves and one for us. Mr. Lee and myself prepared our supper, our female friend providing f i tja TOUR TO THE UMPQVA. ua witfi a choir^c piece of salmon which she had broiled; ajid which, with broad, butter, and tea, constituted our humble repast. Never did we partake of a supper with a better relish. While we were enjoying it, our neo- f)hytes prepared supper for themselves, an'', it was not a ittle interesting, to one who was not familiar with such scenes, to see them prepare their food. Their supper consisted of fresh salmon, and a species of hazel-nut, which is found in the country in great abundance. Having made a suitable fire, they commenced the ope- ration of cooking th-^ir salmon. This was performed in the following manner : they all provided themselves with sticks about three feet long, pointed at one end and split at the other. They then apportioned the salmon, each one takirfc a large piece, and filling it with splinters to prevent its falling to pieces when cooking, and which they fastened with great care, into the forked end of the stick ; then placinor themselves around the fire so as to describe a circle, they stuck the pointed end of the stick into the ground a short distance from the fire, inclining the top towards the flames, *so as to bring the salmon in contact with the heat, thus forming a kind of pyramid of salmon over the whole fire. One side being cooked, the other was turned to the heat, and speedily the whole was prepared for eating. Stones were then provided for the purpose of cracking nuts, and all being seated on the ground, the eating process commenced. The extreme novelty of their appearance, the nut cracking, the gene- ral merriment, the apparent jokes, ready repartees, and bursts of laughter, were sufficient to have excited the risibilities of even a Roman Catholic priest, however phlegmatic. And certainly a more jovial set of fellows than these sons of nature, I have never seen. They are as untamed as the elk thev chase over their mountains : and feasted upon their fish and nuts with as much seem- ing satisfaction to themselves, as the most fashionable and refined, party that ever graced the gay saloon en- joyed while regaling themselves from the most costly viands. Supper being over, we called the attention of thg !5ESSSB!«!S»9 fSg^am!ffk-SS?^^SS*^S^''''''^^^'^'''''^'^T^^ TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 108 Indians, while we engaged in our evening devotions. I •«ang a hymn, and then we both enijaged in prayer, tiie Indians all kneeling with us, and evidently manitesting a peculiar interest in what was passing before them. And, thought I, why should they not feel interested 1 Never before had the death-like silence, which reigned along this valley, been broken Vy the voice of prayer and praise. The sombre shades '.. moral darkness, which nad ever cast a melancholy -^bom upon the people, had never been penetrated b\ he rjys of gospel light. The heralds of mercy who bung glad ♦'dings of good things to those who wander upon the .lark mountains, had never before set their feet on the^c hostile shores. And, while the Indians surrounding ns appeared to be sensible of the nature and importance of "^ur visit among them, the circumstances were such a^ to create iii us feelings of the greatest solicitude. A.fter our devotions were fin- ished, Mr. Lee addressed the Indians through our inter- preter in relation to the objects of our visit, and they listened as to a story calculated to excite the utmost wonder. We all retired in quietness, rested in peace,, arose in safety, and proceeding on our way along the widening Umpqua towards the great Pacific ocean, ar- rived at noon among the Indians at the mouth of the river. We found but little land along the river which holds out any inducements to emigrants, the country on both sides as we approached the coast, becoming more and more rocky and mountainous. Whatever the country may be back from the river, it is certain that along the stream it can never sustain much of a populat'on. Hills upon hills, and rocks piled upon rocks, characterize al- most the whol" distance from the Umpqua fort to the Pacific ocean. On arriving at the coL i | )ll|l | 114 TOUR TO THK UMrQUA. quite warm, and we began to consider ourselves in rather critical circumstances. If abandoned bv our guide, it was extremely doubtful whether we could find our way back to the fort, or forward to the great valley of the Umpqua. The whole country was rough and mountain- ous, and there was no visible trail but a small portion of the way. But with all these difficulties, we showed that we were fixed in our resolutions to leave this suspicious horde of savages before darkness should favor them in the execu- tion of any treacherous designs which they might enter- tain towards us. Discovering that we were ready to mount our horses, We- We became more pliable, and said that he would proceed with us, on condition that we would pay him an extra shirt, we having at first given him a shirt and a pair of pantaloons. Mr. Lee said he would give him no more, but, to get rid of the difficulty, I told We- We that if he would go, I would give him the additional shirt so soon as we should reach the great valley. Turning to his people. We- We addressed them a few words in trie Umpqua language, and then told us he was ready to go. Accordingly, we left this group of wretched beings about three o'clock, p. m., and galloped swiftly over a little plain, towards a high mountain. Three hours' hard labor in ascending and descending, brought us to the foot of the mountain on the opposite side, and passing through a dense .thicket, we found ourselves again on the bank of the river. We- We brought out a well known Indian "whoop," and was answered by another Indian, just below us, on the river. Immediately four Indians came in sight, with a canoe, and We- We told us we had better unpack our horses, and put all our things in a canoo to be taken up the river, a few miles beyond a place where the pass was very rocky, narrow, and dangerous. But the strange conduct of the Indians we had left, had excited our suspicions; and supposing that those in the canoe were some of the same party whom We- We had, perhaps, caused to come up the river for no good purpose, we resolved to keep what we had under our own eye as long as we could. TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 115 We told the guide that we should keep our things on our horses' backs. We-We hung his head, and told us we would be sorry for it before we got through. We proceeded, but found it as We-We had forewarned us. Our trail lay along a frightful precipice which towered far above us, and extended far below us, and in some places was so narrow and broken that a miss-step would nave precipitated us headlong on the rocks below, or into the rushing waters of the Umpqua. In one instance my own Ijorse fell from ten tc fifteen feet down the rocks, but at length succeeded in gaining the trail without receiving much injury. But we were not destined to make the pass, without considerable difficulty. In passing the last dangerous point, " old Pomp, " our pack horse, lost Iils footing, and rolling down a rocky steep of some thirty feet, went backwards into the Umpqua river. We had fastened around his neck a long lasso, and the end of it remaining on shore, we succeeded, by drawing it around a tree, in raising and keeping his head above the water until We- We had relieved him of his pack. While We-We was at work among the rocks, where thf^ water was up to his neck, trying to relieve the horso of his burden, he told us that we might have saved ourselves that difficulty, if we had trusted to the honesty of an Indian ; and we ourselves began to suspect that our fears had been quite groundless. It required our utmost efforts to keep the horse from drowning ; but after we had relieved him of his load, he managed himself a little better, and finding a place which was not quite so steep as the one where he entered the river, we succeeded, at that point, in getting him on the rocky shore. All our bedding, provisions, &c., were thoroughly soaked ; but gathering up what was not spoiled, and putting some on the horses, and carrying some on our own shoulders, we started on, being informed by the guide, that it was not far to a fine prairie. Night began to set in, and as we left the scene of our disaster, we entered a dense forest of fir, and the gloom continued to thicken around us until we were en- veloped in total darkness. We were leading our animals 116 TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. by the bridle, and feeling our way among the trees, in the midst of darkness, so dense that it was impossible to see a white horse, though within a foot of one's nose, when we became so entangled among the logs, ravines, and brush, that we found it was impossible to go either forwards or backwards, to the right or to the left, and colloquising a little through the darkness, we came to the conclusion to tie our horses to the trees, and make the best of the night we could. Having a few matches in my pocket, and the leaves and limbs under my feet being perfectly dry, I soon had the forest illuminated, and then was disclosed to our view a most horrible place. We sought for a spot on which to sleep, but could find none level and large enough to stretch ourselves upon. We must either bend over the top of a knoll, or double up in a ravine, or remain in a sitting or standing posture. We preferred the second, so wrapping ourselves in our wet blankets and rolling into a hollow, we tried to com- pose ourselves to sleep ; but the cracking of limbs by the tramp cf our horses, the howling of wolve; , and the screech of an owl, frequently disturbed our repose. The morning sun, however, enabled us so to adjust our rather disarranged affairs that we could, quite comfortably, prosecute our journey. Next day was Sabbath, but we could not remain where we were, and we proceeded on a few miles, and came to a band of about thirty of the Umpquas, with whom we tarried for several hoMrs. They bqhaved themselves quite orderly, and were anx- ious to render us all the assistance in their power. We preached the gospel to them as well as we were able, and they said tney wanted verj much to have a mission- ary come among them. Not desiring to sleep in the vicinity of their lodge, we made signs of wishing to leave, and the old men came around us, of whom there w^ere several, and patting us on the shoulders, seemed to express great attachment. But we concluded that their love was not so ardent as to render it desirable, on our part, to stop with them over night, and, as our pro' vision was growing scarce, we decided to set our faces towards the Wallamette valley. Gathering up the wrec« TOUR TO THK UMPQUA. 117 of our pack, we again mounted, and traveling about twelve miles, encamped on the bank of a beautiful rivu- let which is one of the tributaries of the Umpqua. We traveled during the whole day the distance of twenty- five miles, over as fine a country as can be found in any part of the world. An agreeable variety of hills, plains, and groves of pine, fir, and oak, constituted scenery of the n:<'st picturesque beauty, and the eye was never weary in gazing upon the ever varying picture. In ad- dition to this, the soil is good, the grass abundant, and the country well waterei ; but as we proceeded up the valley of the Umpqua, the timber became scarce. A few pine on the hills, with a few scattering oak, are the principal kinds. Though the country is now debtitute of inhabitants, except the wild beasts, and a few savages as wild as they, yet the day is not far distant, when it will be teeming with a civilized and christian people. The Indians inhabiting the Umpqua valley, from the Pacific ocean one hundred miles into the interior, ai*e very few. All that we could find, or get uny satisfac- tory evidence as now in existence, did not exceed three hundred and seventy-five souls. These live in several different clans, and speak two distinct languages. They would be favorable towards the establishment of a mis- sion in their country, but seem to think that the grcjatest benefit it would confer on them, would be to enable them to sell their beaver and deer-skins for a higher price. Temporal good is the sole object they would have in view. The most of them, lesiding as they do on the coast, are almost inaccessible, and the establishment and support of a mission among them, would be attended with immense expense. The best information we could obtain, from the Indians and others, led us to the conclu- sion that the time doubtless has been when the Indians of this valley were vastly more numerous than at present. The Umpqua tribe, but a few years ago numbering seve- ral hundred, by disease and their family wars has been reduced to less than seventy-five souls. Under the im- pression that the doom of extinction is suspended over his wetched race, and that the hand of Providence is U /' M : 11, ^ •' ' 118 TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. i i i > removing them to give place to a people more worthy of this beautiful and fertile country, we arrived at the place of our encampment, and found ourselves again on the great California trail. Having fulfilled his engagement in bringing us around to this trail, our guide left us to return to his people, Monday, September 1st. We quickened our pace through a country well adapted tu agricultural purposes, and abounding in every variety of scenery ; and at noon, having traveled twenty-five miles, we stopped for dinner on Elk river, at the place where, on going out, we left the California trail. In the afternoon, we again passed over the Elk mountain, and found that the fire was still raging with increasing violence. A vast quantity of the large fir and cedar timber, had been burned down, and in some places the trail was so blockaded with fallen trees, that it was almost impossible to proceed ; while now and then we passed a giant cedar, or a mammoth fir, through whose trunk the fire had made a passage, and was still flaming like an oven. Every few moments these majestic spars would come "cracking, crashing, and thundering" to the ground ; but while the fire was thus robbing the mountain of its glory, we pushed on over its desolated ridges, and at sun-down arrived on a little prairie at its base, where we made our encampment. Several times during the night we were awakened by the crash of the falling timber, o;i the mountain, which sometimes produced a noise similar to that of distant thunder. Tuesday, 2d. Homeward bound, at noon we arrived in the Wallamette valley, where, according to engage- ment, we met the Callapooah chief. He had collected about sixty of his people, and said that he had about forty more. We remained with them four hours, and endeavored to preach to them "Jesus and the resurrec- tion. " Many of them were sick, and thty appeared wretched beyond description. Our bowels of compassion yearned over them, but it was not in our power to hei^ them. Commending them to God, at four, p. m., we pursued our way ; but finding no water, we did not ~ L*y\t ' 'W'--t.1it't«qft--1igW-:^^.-.' TOUR TO THE UMPQUA. 119 camp till el j\ en o'clock at night. We were then obliged to strip our horses on the* open prairie, and turn them loose without water, and lay ourselves down upon our blankets with our lips parched with thirst. Next morn- ing, however, we found ourselves, Hke Hagar in the desert, within a short distance of good water. Here I roasted a duck for our breakfast, which the Callapooah chief had given us, and which we ate with neither bread nor sauce ; but a cup of coffee, that " sine qua non " for orairie traveling, washed it down, and on the strength of it, we traveled forty miles, during the day, over a country of surpassing loveliness, on account of its en- chanting scenery and amazing fertility. Surely, thought I, infinite skill has here been employed, in fitting up a country which requires nothing more than a population under the influence of the religion of Christ, to render it a perfect paradise. The last night we encamped within fifteen miles of our families and friends, and the next day, Thursday, the 4th, we arrived at home in safety, but found our families all prostrate with the ague and fever. Having been constantly in a healthy exercise in our absence, we returned in the enjoyment of good health, and were consequently able to render ourselves useful in taking care of the sick. ^-^-t I uwt. «^:- 1 ! i- r i >4 *: Hi. ^1- (-r-t ti m CHAPTER VII. Tour to Vancouver — Recaption at the fort — Preaching in the hall — BusineM completwl — Expedient to keep warm — Cold weather — Difficult navigation — The rapids — Forest encampment — Strange visitor — Affecting intelligence — Death of Rev. James Olley — My Mohican guest — Return home — Meeting — Fruitless attempt to recover a dead body. December 7th 1 S42. Left the Wallamette for Van- couver, for the purpose of procuring supplies for the Oregon Mission School, accompanied by five Indian boys. Proceeded on horse-back about twenty-five miles to a place on the Wallamette river, called, by the French, "La Butte," this being the most convenient place to land our supplies. Here, after having slept beneath the wide spreading branches of a large fir tree, we took the canoe which is kept by the mission above the falls of the Wallamette, for the purpose of transporting goods up and down the river, and proceeded to " Tum Wtvter, that is, the falls. We left our canoe above the portage, and taking a boat provided for us by Mr. Abernethy, the mission steward, we continued on about fifteen miles below the falls, and encamped one hour after sundown, having rowed our canoe and boat during the day the dis-ance of thirty-five miles. The night was very cold, but collecting a large quan- tity of fuel, we wert; able to keep up a good fire during the night, and in this mtrnner kept ourselves comfortably warm. Started the ne\t morning as soon as it was day, and, though for six miles we had to contend wit'i the strong current of the Columbia, we arrived at Vancouver at two o'clock, p. M. I went directly to the fort, and had an interview with James Douglass, Esq., one of the TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 19 he ler Ind the commandants of the place, and ascertained that I should be able to accomplish my business early oim Monday morning. I was received with all that courtesy and hospitality which usually characterize the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company. It was Saturday, and in the evening I received a respectful invitation from Mr. Douglass, to preach in the hall, the following day. Ac- cordingly, after the usual church service was read, I endeavored to explain and enforce the inquiry of the jailer- — "What must I do to be saved 1" On Monday morning, the 11th, having completed my business, and prepared to return, we proceeded to our boat, and found the Columbia river filled with ice. The weather had been increasingly cold, and the ice came down the river in large fields, and threatened to put a stop, for the time being, to the navigation of the stream. However, it had not yet become very hard, and though there was some danger in the attempt, yet we launched forth into the stream, and breaking our way through the ice with our setting poles, we at length succeedied in getting safely into the mouth of the Wallamette. This river being clear from ice, we proceeded up about 'jeven miles, and encamped under a high blun, which sheltered us from the piercing winds from the north-east. The ground being frozen, the weather ex- ceedingly cold, and, withal, a scarcity of bedding, I took the following precaution to ensure a comfortable night : I built a large fire where I designed to make my bed, and afte»' the earth became thoroughly warmed and dried, I removed the fire a little distance, and plucking some fir boughs, threw them upon the heated earth ; then spreading my buflfalo skin upon the boughs, I lay down upon it, and with a couple of blankets over me, slept comfortably during the night. Next day at noon, we arrived at the falls, and on Wednesday, the 13th, made our portage. At two, p. M., we proceeded up the rapids above the falls, which, at that season of the year, are very difficult of ascent. They are ascended by cordeling, and it is frequently necessary to work for hours in the wat^r among the 11 II I "^Jf^^HSff"*^ 122 I^U* J|9 VANCOUVER. i.i I H I. ii \ii lat:; rocks, in order to get up one boat load, an exercise any thing but agreeable when the mercury is nearly down to zero. We succeeded, however, with much toiling, and |: a severe wetting, in reaching the deep water above the ^•y> rapids, without any serious accident, and at night en- camped seven miles above t::e falls, in a dense forest of fir trees. I had preserved a few matches from getting wet, and succeeded, after awhile, in striking up a good fire, though the wood where we were encamped was very wet. I cooked me a supper of fresh salmon, not forgetting to make a good cup of tea; and after partak- ing of my humble repast from my ground table, with that peculiar relish which good health and hard labor always give to wholesome food, and offering up a tribute of thanksgiving to Providence for the blessings of the past, and invoking a continuance of his favors, I spread my skins and blankets upon the ground, and reclined myself to rest. As I lay stretched upon my bed of skins before the fire, musing upon the good providence of God, which had been manifested in our preservation amid the dan- gers CO which we had been exposed in ascending the fearful rapids, I was startled by the voice of a man from the river below us, inquiring, "What boat is that'?' I replied, it belongs to the Oregon mission. " Then," said he, " I will come ashore." It was ten o'clock at night, and it was quita an uncommon thing for boats to remain upon the river to so late an hour. Consequently, I felt quite solicitous to know who the stranger might be. The sound of his oars, as they fell upon the water, grew louder and louder as he approached the shore, and in a few minutes he was along side of our boat, to which he fastened his small skiff. Clambering up the precipitous bank of the river through the thick underbrush, the light of our fire relieved me of some anxiety, as it shone upon the face of a " half-breed " Indian, direct from the p'ace where I resided, which was forty miles above. This half-breed was an educated man, and a sketch of his history may be found below. After giving me 'he gratifying intelligence that my own familv were well he tmimmm nHM mnq TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 123 inquired if I had heard the sad news. " What news V said I, " I have heard nothing sad." " Then," said he, " I am the bearer of intelligence concerning the most afflicting event that has ever transpired in our settle- ment: the Rev. James Olley is no more." Intelligence more unexpected could scarcely have been communica- ted; and when the circumstances of the removal of Mr. Olley from this stage of action were related, the effect upon my mind was quite overpowering. Mr. Olley was a local preacher in the Oregon Mission, and sailed from New York in the fall of 1839, with the large reinforcement in the ship Lausanne. He was a carpenter by trade, and after his arrival in Oregon, con- tinued to serve the mission in that capacity, as he was able. He was making preparations to build himself a house, and desiring some better lumber than any he could obtain in the vicinity of the mission for the purpose of making window sash, he had employed a young man by the name of Eiken to accompany him up the Wallamette river about twenty miles, where there was pine timber, with the design of procuring a couple of logs and run- ning them down the river to the mission saw-mill, where they could be cut into boards to suit his purpose. He proceeded to the pinery, and cutting two small sized logs rolled them into the water, but found that they were so heavy they would not float. He had designed to take them in tow, but finding that they would sink to the bottom, he resolved upon this expedient, to raise them to the surface, and lash a log to each side of his canoe. AU being prepared they entered the canoe thus encum- bered, and committed themselves to the rapid and treacherous current of Wallamette river. The weather was exceedingly cold, as it had been for a number of weeks previously, and the water in the river coming down from the snowy pnountains of the east, was as cold as the ice itself. As there had been but little rain during the fall, the river was not high, but there are places in it at all stages of the water, which are very rapid, and it requires great skill and dexterity to run them in safety even with an ;t-^K i-i;s 124 fQm TQ VAweoviTBi, empty canoe. However, they proceeded down the current about ten miles, without accident, Mr. Eiken being in the stern, and Mr. OIley in the bow of the canoe, when they came to one of the fearful rapids with which tiie river abounds. At this place is a ledge of rocks extending across the bed of the stream, which rises out of the water in one place, forming a small island. The rapid commences a short distance above this ledge, and where the water breaks over the rocks it becomes exceedingly violent. Neither Mr. Olley nor Eiken had ever passed up or down this part of the river, consequently they were entirely ignorant of the dangers of the place; but there was no alternative, they were already in the strength of the current, and to make the shore on either side was impossible. Consequently they were carried with great violence on the rocks about ^fteen yard§ from the little island, and about forty yards from the opposite shore. The bow of the canoe and logs ffrst stiTick the rocks, and the stern swung so violently dr>wn that Eiken was thrown clear from the canoe into the strongest part of the current. But, being young, vigorous and active, he succeeded in making the shore about three hundred yards below, but he was so much exhausted through exertion, and benumbed by the cold, that when he reached the shore he was scarcely able to 'move; and while struggling in the icy water just before reaching the place where he could gain a foothold on the bottom, he was on the point of yielding to the fury of the current, and giving himself up for lost. But he escaped to tell a more solemn tale concerning the fate of his comrade. As soon as Eiken possibly could, he returned to the place opposite where the canoe and logs struck, and observed that Mr. Olley, having held fast to the raft, and now being on one of the logs, was looking round as if to contrive what course to pursue. He called out to him and inquired, "what are you going to do?" Mr. Olley made no reply. Probably from the noise of the water rushing over the rocks, he did not hear him. Eiken thought he might have been bewildered. He directly sat down on the log and pulled TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 135 IS u y m ofT his shoes and stockings, and threw them into the river, keeping on his pantaloons, coat and cap. He then deliberately plunged himself into the stream, and was carried violently down the dashing current. Having learned to swim in his youtlij he kept his head above the water for some time, and appeared to be nearing the shore. Eiken pursued him down as fast as he could, but could not keep up with him, such was the rapidity of the current. As he was borne downward a large log which extended into the stream, hid him from Eiken's view. Previously to this, his motion in the water be- came more irregular, and he appeared to have turned himself on his back, and to have thrown up his hands as in the attitude of prayer, or calling for help. He had then doubtless given up all hopes of making the shore, and was committing himself into the hands of his God. Be this as it may, when Eiken succeeded in getting round the log so that he could command a view of the river below, our beloved associate, friend, and father, had passed forever from the view of mortals. These facts coming to my ears under rhe circumstan- ces already described, for awhile weighed down my spirits, but a few hours of refreshing slumber after midnight, quieted my nerves, and the next morning found me prepared to resume my toils and exposures. My visitor in camp, continued with me for a couple of hours, and after refreshing him^self from my almost ex- hausted stores, observed that he was in a great hurry to get down to the mouth of the Columbia river to secure a piece of land which still remained unoccupied, and this explained his running in the night. He had been in the country about two years, and as there had been many reports in circulation concerning him, I resolved to avad myself o( the opportunity thus afforded me to obtain from himself some facts in relation to his historv. "I once, ' said he, "saw a book which was entitled, * The la?t of the Mohicans ; ' but I could tell the author a different story from that. " In answer to my inciuiries, [ learnet from him the following particulars. He was burn in New England, and his fathei being a white i. " 120 TOUR TO VANCOUVER, man, he was tlicrcfore a proper yankee. His mother was an Indian woman, a relic of the Mohican tribe, ami ho was therefore a Mol.ican. He grew up to manhood in company with a brother of his, received a tolerably good English education, and was known by the name of J. L. M. Cooper. He and his brother, sick of the pre- judices existing against them in their own country, re- solved upon going to sea. They accordingly shipped on board a trading vessel bound to the Pacific, and after a voyage of several months, found themselves collecting Spanish hides, on the coast of California. Not liking the business very well, and finding themselves in a country where they would like "to remain, they resolved, when the vessel was about to leave, to desert her, and take up their residence in California. They succeeded in their designs, but had not been long in the country before J. L. M. Cooper found himself involved in serious difficul- ties with the Californians. He treated some of them roughly, and they accused him also of using too great liberties with their property, particularly their horses, and finally became so enraged against him as to resolve upon taking his life. There was a {Spaniard in particular, wiio, he believed, would take the first opportunity to carry this threat into execution. He accordingly secre- ted himself in a jungle, where his wants were supplied by his friends, and where he designed to wait until a company of trappers and hunters belonging to the Hud- son's Bay Company, then in California, should start across the country for the Columbia river. By joining this company he hoped to escape the vengeance of the Spaniards. Betrayed by one in whom he had placed confidence, he would have lost his life but for a double betrayal. His place of concealment had been discovered by his determined foe, and the night fixed upon in w^hich ho wan to die. In his turn Cooper's enemy was betrayed, and Cooper was informed that on a certain night he must prepare for a deadly encounter. The night arrived ; Cooper built a large fire ; made up the form of a man ; put his cap on his head, and laid it down before the fire as if to sleep. He had loaded TOUR TO VANCOUVER, 127 his unerring rifle during .he day, and examining it a little by the light of the fire to see that the percussion cap was in perfect order, he retreated a few steps from the fire, and hid himself in a place he had prepared for that purpose, in a dense thicket. At length he heard the stealthy footsteps of the vengeful Spaniard, as he cau- tiously approached his victim, whom he supposed he saw stretched in sleep before the fire. The Spaniard cast his dark eye along his rifle several times, and then would venture a little nearer, to make a surer aim. At length, clicks cracky hang! went the rifle, and the report seemed to linger long amid the darkness of the night, and three balls had pierced the slumbernig image before the fire. At this momejit Cooper stepped out from his conceal- ment ; brought his rifle deliberately to his face, and the report rising upon the midnight air, the Spaniard was in eternity. The ball had pierced his heart. The company of hunters were already scores of miles on their way to Oregon, and Cooper, securing one of the best horses he could find, perhaps without rendering an equivalent, soon placed himself beyond the reach of his enemies, on the south side of the Snowy mountains. This is Cooper's version of the story. Another is this : that he deliberately murdered a Spaniard in a gambling affray; and then escaped from California with the com- pany above mentioned, upon a stolen horse. Be this as it may, the hour of midnight had arrived when my Mo- hican guest had finished his story, and then rising from the ground, he buckled his belt, from which dangled a large butcher-knife, a little tighter around him,' and thanking me for his supper, said, " I must go. " Splash, splash, splash, went the oars, as he glided away from the shore, and was lost amidst the surrounding dark- ness. On Thursday, the 14th, arrived in safety at "La Butte, " and landed our goods. I sent back the Indian boys with the canoe to the falls, to get a load of salmon and molasses, remaining myself with the goods over night, and sleeping between two large roots of a fir tree. ■Hi" mmfmiftw''' 12S TOUR TO VANCOUVER. On Friday, according to arrangement, a team was sent to meet me at tiie Butte to receive the goods, and a horse to convey me home, where I arrived in safet} at nine o'clock in the evening, after an absence of eight days. Found my family in good health, but the neigh- borhood wore a gloomy aspect. One of its prominent members, had, in a most afflicting manner, been called away, and all appeared to mourn, but not without hope Sunday, 17th. Preached to a number of the mission aries and settlers, from the words of the Evangelist, •'And beginning to sink, he cried, saying. Lord, save me. On Monday, the 18th, in company with Rev. Jason Lee, procured a canoe, and a number of persons to assist in rowing it, and about sundown started up the river for the purpose of examining the place where the sad catas- trophe, before related, transpired, and of searching for the body of our friend and brother Olley. We proceeded up the river about two miles and encamped for the night. Next morning continued slowly up the strong current, examining every nook, corner, and place where we sup- posed it to be possible for a body to lodge, and were encouraged to believe that we should succeed from find- ing one Mackinaw blanket, two coats, one bear-skin, and one paddle, all of which belonged to Mr. Eiken. At one o'clock, i». m., we arrived at the place where the fatal disaster occurred, and found that the current con- tinued exceedingly strong about three-quarters of a mile below the place where the canoe struck the rocks. The river then widens into a kind of basin, broad and deep, and, judging from those places where it can be seen, with a very rough bottom. We examined the place as minutely as possible, but no vestige of the body could be discovered. This was the tenth day after the acci dent. Fatigued with the constant exertions of the da}-, at dark we drew our canoe ashore ; cooked our supper upon the shingle beach, and cast ourselves down upon our blankets, to rest for the night. Repeating our ex- amination the next morning, with as little success as the day previous, we came to the conclusion, however desir- wmmm tmmm iM^f'' TOUR TO VANCOUVER, 129 ous wo might be to rescue the body of our triend from a watery grave, it would no more be seen until that day should arrive when the seas, and the rivers also, shall give up their dead. As we descended the river towards the place of our embarkation, this passage of holy writ cl(oe red our otherwise dro^r*''-, spir:t<^: "If we believe that Jesus died and kwc agam, evifr so also them which sleep in Jesus, will God bring with him. " 1 r^-^.iB.l/'«7^J-T!.i3f(«|P>{|¥l^^i«?l?''^^ V '4 J-;*:''-"",. .■*'■: CHAPTER Vm. Af.other lour — Rock Island rapids— The Joult — Stormy encampment — lletiiMi — Hospitality — Slory of our host — Mr. Cornelius Rogers — Par'.y increase — La Bulls — Lonely Sabbath — Arrival home — Mr. Rogers and party — MeeU ing at the hospital — Indian Messenger — bad tidings — Great bereavement — Esq. Crocker — Call tc civil duties — Thomas McKay — Great rain -Estate of Mr. Rogers — Return — Great freshet — Damages — Safe arrival home. January 16th, 1843. Left home in company with L. H. iFudson, for the purpose of performing another trip to Vancouver. We took a light canoe belonging to Mr. Lee, and shot out of a little cove which runs up within a half mile of our house, into the strong current of the Wallamette, and the water being high, we glided down with great rapidity, and at seven o'clock, p. m., encamped on a high bank on the lef* hand side of the river, having run the distance of forty tiiles. Tuesday, Irie 1 7 i, being favored with a good moon, we started, at ilvc o'clock, and at daylight run the Rock Island rapids in safety. This place is considered danger- ous at the present stage of water. Some accidents, though not of a very serious character, have recently happened here. Not long since a Jesuit priest, by the name of Blanchet, was passing up the river in a canoe manned with Indians and half-breeds, and loaded with mill-irons, as he was making arrangements to erect mills in the French settlement above. Arriving at this place, they attempted to ascend the rapids ; but in doubling a point of rocks, around which the water rushed with great violence, they were borne down with fearful force to where they were in danger of being drawn under an immense raft, lying in the river. They struggled in vain to govern their canoe, and being greatly alarmed, in their eagerness to secure it, it was capsized, emptying them 8.W:.^..««..«^ ' mmmmmm wmmmmmmmm TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 131 selves, mill-irons, and all into the river. Some of them struggled long in the water, but finally succeeded, some one way, and some another, in getting safe to land, happy in the consideration that the loss they had sus- tained could possibly be repaired. Though the followers of the " Paclie " were sanguine in the belief that he possessed the power of working miracles, yet he has never been able to raise his mill-irons from the bottom of Rock Island channel. Proceeded on our journey, and at sunrise arrived at the falls, and took breakfast with our good friend, George Abernethy, Esq. At eleven o'clock, continued our voy- age, though with the prospect of bad weather. At twelve it became quite cold, and began to rain and hail. It continued storming without intermission, during the afternoon. This rendered it extremely disagreeable traveling, but there was no alternative ; so we continued to ply the paddle, though iced with the falling sleet, until t began to grow dusk. Arriving at a small promontory ■jovered with fir timber, twenty miles below the falls, we landed, and commenced making preparations for a stormy night. We were thoroughly drenched wi+h rain, though, as good luck would have it, we had preserved ')ur fire-works from getting wet. The storm beat upon us with violence, but we were twenty miles distant from human habitation, and had no choice ; we must prepare to make ourselves as comfortable as possible during the night, though our prospects werr exceedingly gloomy. The first thing to be done was to kindle a fire, no desir able task when every thing is as wet as rain can make it. However, selecting a place at the leeward of two large firs, that we might be the more sheltered from the wind and storm, after about half an hour, and when p^.tience had performed "her perfect work," we succeeded in kindling a small blaze, which by extreme care we soon Increased to a comfortable fire. Having prepared our evening's repast, we partook of it with a keen relish, while the large drops from the Aj-ieaJing bianches of the fir-trees, as they were shaken vviih ihfc wind, fell in showers upon us. 132 TOUR TO VANCOUVER. ;^.'i % Supper being over, we managed partially to dry oui blankets and skins, and spreading tiiem upon the wet ground, we lay ourselves to rest. I spread an umbrella over my head to shelter it from the large drops from the trees and the rain and sleet from the clouds, and, de- spite the storm, slept soundly until six o'clock in the morning. Next day proceeded on to Fort Vancouver, and the following day accomplished our business and prepared to return. Thursday, 19th. Left Vancouver in the morning, and after a day of hard toiling in a continued storm of snow and rain, arrived, late in the evening, at the hoKse of Richard McCary, about five miles below tho Wallamette falls. The night was excessively cold and stormy, and we were pleased to be sheltered beneath a friendly roof. Our host had spent the prime of his life in ranging the Rocky mountains, as a hunter and trapper and enter- tained us with anecdotes of his hair-breadth escapes from the the hostile Sioux and Blackfeet. At one time, he, with seven other Americans, ventured far from the general rendezvous of the hunters, in the country of the Blackfeet, for the purpose of trapping beaver. The country was entirely destitute of timber, except here and there a small bunch of bushes, which grew in the swails. They pitched their tent on the banks of a small rivulet, on the open prairie, within a little distance of one of these thickets ; designing, if they were attacked by the Blackfeet, to retreat to the thicket, and there de- fend themselves and protect their property. One morning, as they went down to the stream to examine their traps, McCary being in advance of the rest of the party, a troop of Blackfeet warriors came dashing over a rise of ground, but a short distance in front of them, niimbering, as they supposed, two or three hundred. As the Americans wheeled and ran towards their tent, the Blackfeet poured a volley of musket balls after them. McCary fell upon his face to the ground ; a ball had entered the back side of his neck, and come out at one of his cheeks. No bone being broken, he TOUR TO VANCOUVKR. 133 soon recovered his senses, but as he could not instantly move, he expected to feel the scalping knife passing over his skull bone ; but the Indians were kept at bay by his seven comrades, who, by this time, had secured their rifles and ammunition. Firing a round or two, and see- ing some of the Indians fall, to their astonishment they saw McCary, whom they supposed to have been shot dead, rushing towards them to join them in their retreat to the thicket. Here they continued the fight, the Indians with great bravery venturing up very near the thicket ; but thsir musket balls and poisoned arrows took effect only upon the bushes and logs which formed the fort of the Ameri- cans; while the latter scarcely discharged a rifle bbt that an Indian was seen to lick the dust. The Blackfeet finding that they could net destroy the Americans with- out losing too many of their men, gave up the contest ; and after securing their dc ad and wounded, and taking the property of the Americans, consisting of their tent, blankets, furs, traps and horses, they gave the shrill war whoop, and disappeared. After dressing McCary's wound as well as circumstances would admit, tb i trap- pers tiirncu their faces back towards the rendezvous, where, after many days of suffering, they all arrived in safety. McCary, not relishing such adventures, and fearing that the next bullet might not be so merciful a9 to shun the vital organs, resolved to leave his dangerous business ; and marrying a Nez Perse, he abandoned the Rocky mountains forever. Our entertainment with this story far exceeded the refreshment we received the remaining part of the night, by sleeping on the bare floor. Next morning proceeded to the falls, where we con- tinued during the day. Saturday, 21st. Left the falls at twelve, m., in com- pany with two other canoes, and arrived at " La Butte " one hour after dark, cold, hungry, and worn out with fatigue. Mr. Cornelius Rogers was in one of the canoes, on his wav up to the settlement to get his wife and her sister, a httle girl two years of age. Mr. Rogers had t 134 ,TOUR TO VANCOUVER. entered into business at the falls, and havmg been mar ried but a few months, had not yet commenced keeping house. Moving up and down the river is, for the want of other means, done in canoes, always a dangerous mode of traveling. The three canoes contained about twenty persons, and all slept at the "Butte;" and though the night was cold, many lay upon the ground without covering. On Sunday morning, the 22nd, Mr. Judscr Tr. Rogers, being entirely out of provisions, Icf ciuip on foot, and proceeded to the mission, where they arrived in the evening, hungry and nearly exhausted. Having a few remnants of food left, I resolved to remain in caup during the Sabbath; and, to make myself as comfortable as possible, I collected a quantity of wood and bark, and building a large fire under the lee of the lofty furs that line the banks of the river, and being left entirely alone, spent the day in reading and meditation. Sunday night there was quite a fall of rain and sleet, and though I slept alone in the forest, and in the morning found that ice had collected in my hair, yet, by the bless'ng of Providence, I received no injury. At five o'clock on Monday morning, I left the "Butte" for my place « •; residence, where I arrived at noon, having traveled th? distance of twenty-five miles. On Thursday, the 2nd day of February, Mr. Corr.;;Iiui3 Rogers left the settlement with his family, consisting of his wife and her little sister, to remove to the falls, where he expected to settle. Wm. W. Raymond, a member of the Oregon mission, residing at the mouth of the Columbia river, had come up with the large mission canoe that would carry about three tons, for the purr ie of taking back supplies for the station; and not h. '■ r enough to load the canoe himself, he proposed to t:t.' Mr. Rogers and his eflfects down to the falls. Mr. Rogers gladly accepted of the offer; aMd as Dr. Elijah White, sub-agent of Indiah Afhi'V in Oregon, and Esq. Crocker, late of Lansingville, ' ompkir , Lo., N. Y., were desirous of visiting Clatsop, they had obtained the privi- lege of q,ccompanying Mr, Rj^ymood down the Columbia I n mar leeping le want igerous d about though without Tr. ajip on arrived Having in ca.Tip fortable sirk, and urs that y alone, ay night hough I ind that ss'ng of 3lock on )lace • •; '^eled ti ? 'orr.,:;Iius onsisting the falls, mond, a nouth of J mission I purr ie •t h. ■' r I to tl' Is. Mr, >r. Elijah and Esq. Y., were the privi- Columbia TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 135 ■r ■■:^; river. These all repaired to the river's side, apparently in high spirits; embarked on the ill-fated craft; the Indians plied their paddles dexterously, and they glided away from the sight of their friends on the shore, upon the smooth surface of the treacherous element. Sunday, Feb. 5th, I preached at the Hospital to a few of the missionaries, some of whom had been the subjects of severe affliction for a great share of the time since they had been in the country. I endeavored to encour- age them from the words of St. Peter, " Think it not strange concerning the fiery trial which is to try you, as though some strange thing happened unto you, but rejoice, inasmuch as ye are partakers of Christ's sufferings." The sufferings incident to our residence in a heathen land, and the disposition with which we should bear them, were the subjects of the discourse. The services had just been brought to a close, and I was about taking my leave to return to my family, ten niiles up the river, when an Indian, almost exhausted with running, came into Dr. Babcock's, where I had stopped a few moments, bearing a small package of let- ters. The running of the Indian, the number of letters, the season of the year, and the storminess of the day, all conspired to excite our fears, and create a presenti- ment within us, that some unusual occurrence had taken place. I broke the seal of my letter from George Abernethy at the falls, and, most shocking to relate, the first words that met my eye were as follows ; " Dear Brother : — I have barely time to say that the mission canoe went over the falls yesterday evening with Mr. and Mrs. Rogers, Aurelia, and 'Squire Crocker and two Indians. We started immediately out with the mission boat, and reached within thirty yards of Mr. Rogers before he sank to rise no more.' It appears that they proceeded from the place of em- barkation in safety, until they arrived at the head of the rapids, above the cataract. Here they all got out of the canoe, which they let down the rapids by a rope, and proceeded on foot down to a, bluff rock whicn projects j'l; 136 TOUR TO VANCOUVER. out into the stream, and is but a few steps from the place of landing, llere they all got into the canoe again except Mr. Raymond and three Indians, who remained on shore, for the purpose of holding on to the rope which ■ \s fastened to the canoe to enable them to drop below t.ii it of rocks in safety. They passed the point, and bro, the canoe along side of a large log which the high water had carried in along the shore, and which was used as a kind of wharf. The instant the canoe struck the log, Dr. White stepped one foot on it, and leaning towards the shore, held on to the canoe with the other foot, but before another one could step on the log the current took the bow of the canoe, which was up the stream, and in an instant they were drawn into the strongest part of the current. Mr. Haymond and the Indians exerted themselves in vain to hold on to the rope; they were drawn into the river, and forced to let go, to save themselves. All efforts were vain, all hope was lost. At this perilous moment two Indians sprang from the canoe, and darted like lightning through the rushing flood, and gained the shore. As the canoe approached the awful verge, Mr. Rogers threw^ himself upon his knees before his wife, who remained in her seat, holding her little sister in her lap. For a moment all was still except the rushing waters, then a wail was heard above the roar of the angry flood — they had made the fatal plunge. Some of their bodies were seen a short time, floating below the falls, but before they could possibly be approached with a boat, they had all sunk into their watery graves. Thus terminated the mortal career of Esq. Crocker, Cornelius Rogers, his wife and her little sister, and two Indians. The remains of the first two were subsequently recovered, and committed to the earth; the others have never been found. If by some 'awful convulsion in nature the whole city of New York wpre to be submerged beneath the waves of the Atlantic ocean, the shock to the State could not be greater than was felt in the colony of Oregon, when the mission canoe, with her precious cargo, went over the falls. This awful dispensation of Providence wrapped the TOUK TO VANCOUVER. 137 vthole counlF) in gloom, and indeed there were nnany circumstances which combined to render it truly afflicting. Mr. Rogers had formerly been a member of the Presbyterian mission in the upper country, and was re* garded as a very efficient missionary ; but becoming discouraged with the prospect there, he had asked and obtamed a discharge from the mission, and for some time had made it his home in the Wallamette settlement. He had adopted Oregon as a place of permanent abode, and consequently asked and obtained the hand of Satira Les- lie, eldest daughter of Rev. David Leslie, though she was but fifteen years of age. When Mr. Leslie took his departure from the country to the Sandwich Islands, and perhaps to the United States, the September pre- vious, Mr. Rogers accompanied him down to the mouth of the Columbia river, in the brig Chenamus, Mr. Leslie having with him his entire family. It consisted of five interesting girls, he having buried his wife but a shor* time before. When the vessel was about ready to sail, and bear Mr, Leslie and two of his daughters away, the marriage of Mr. Rogers with Satira was duly solemnized on board the ship, as she lay at anchor in Baker's Bay. Dr. J. P. Richmond officiated on the occasion. It was arranged that Mr. Rogers and his wife would take back to the Wallamette the two youngest daughters of Mr. Leslie, and take care of them until Mr. Leslie could provide for them m some other way, while the remaining two were to accompany their father to the Islands, and perhaps to the States. Accordingly, they thus separated m Baker's Bay, about the 1st of September, 1842, fondly indulging the expectation that, after a separation of a few months, or years at most, they would again meet, and spend many happy years in each others' society. But an inscrutable Providence ordered it otherwise. From the time that Mr. Rogers returned with his important charge from the mouth ot the Columbia river, to the period of the fatal voyage down the Wallamette, he had been variously, though usefully employed ; and vlesiging to spend his days in Oregon, his feeliii^s and interests were bound up in the countrv. He was justly *6 HI' 13' TOUR TO VANCOUVER. regarded as one of the most useful men it contained, and consequently his sudden removal was considered as a great loss to the rising settlement. His young and blooming companion was not only every way worthy of her husband, but the darling of a fond and doting parent, and beloved by all that knew her. She was at my house but a short time previous to her leaving the settlement to attend her husband to the falls, and informed us that she designed to take her youngest sister, Aurelia, a child two years old, with her, and leave the other, Helen, four years old, with Mrs. Gray. But for this arrange- ment, all three would have gone together ; but Helen lived to bear to her afflicted parent the melancholy tidmgs of the awful death of his eldest and youngest daughters. Esquire Crocker had been in the country but a short time. He performed the journey across the mountains for the benefit of his health. Liking the country better than he anticipated, he had come to the conclusion to send for his family and establish himself in Oregon ; but by one stroke of Providence his designs were forever frustrated. Having been appointed by the authorities of the coun- try to secure and appraise the property of the late Mr. Cornelius Rogers, the principal part of which was at the falls, I started for that place on the 9th of February, in company with Mr. W. H. Gray. Traveled ten miles, and stopped at Dr. Babcock's, who was the Judge of Probate, to get our instructions, and continued with him during the night. Next morning at daylight, proceeded on horseback towards Champoeg, but as there had been a fall of snow the day previous, and the rain was then falling in torrents, it was almost impossible to make headway. As we urged our way along, we found the streams and ravines so swollen, that tne few bridges that had been made, were either carried away or afloat How- ever, by fording some of the streams where the water covered the saddles, and swimming others which were not fordable, we succeeded in getting to '^"hampoeg, th« TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 139 distance of sixteen miles, at one o'clock, p. m., thoroughly drenched. As it continued to rain violently during the afternoon, we concluded to stop until morning. Spent the night in a house or hut occupied by Charles Roe, an American, who was absent with his family from home. The wife of this man is the daughter of Thomas McKay, who was the son of the unfortunate man of the satne name, who perished on the Tonquin, when she was blown up on the north-west coast. Her mother is a woman of the Nez Perce tribe. She is the sister of the three McKay boys who accompanied the Rev. Jason Lee from Oregon to the United States, in 1838. Her father has recently discarded the old Nez Perce woman, her mother, to whom he was never formally married, except after the Indian custom, and taken to himself a young half-breed, who becomes his lawful wife under the sanction of a Roman Catholic priest. Rested as well as we could during the night on a naked plank, rose early in the morning, the rain pouring down with increasing violence. But our commission was one of urgency, so, turning horses loose upon the prairie, and borrowing a canoe, we struck out into the dashing current of the Wallamette. Already the banks of the river were full, and the rapidly increasing flood was rolling onward with fearful fury towards the Pacific, bearing upon its bosom immense quantities of floodwood, ever and anon undermining a large tree upon the shore, which would fall with a tremendous crash into the roar- ing flood; but keeping our cockle-shell craft in the centre of the stream, and carefully avoiding coming in contact with the numerous logs floating upon its surface, we proceeded down the distance of ten miles in about one hour. Fearing to attempt to run the dangerous rapids of Rock Island, we rowed our canoe into a li tie eddy some distance above, and fastened it to some tiees. We then took our baggage on our backs, and proceeded on foot towards the falls, distant eight miles. A number of streams crossed our path, but passing some on logs, and wading through others, we arrived there at three o'clock, p. M. ;.i:'7''.? Y"'--"\\'^- ■^^J'^#'-''r';f-\ 7 — 140 TOUtl TO VANCOUVfiRi ■•&A- Sunday, 13th. I preached to about twenty Americans of different ages, from the invitation of Christ to those who labor and are heavy laden, and rejoiced in the con- sideration that there is rest in Christ. Monday, 14th. Attended to the duties imposed upon me in relation to Mr. Rogers' estate, in connexion with W. H. Gray and Robert Shortess. Found the estate to be worth fifteen hundred dollars, and the liabilities to amount to seven hundred. Ascertained that the heirs of Mr. Rogers reside in Utica, State of New York. - Tuesday, 15th. Having accomplished our business, We left the fails at two, p. m., and returned to our canoe, where we encamped for the night. The river had con- tinued to rise until it was higher than it had been known for thirty years, and we knew it would be almost impos- sible to ascend with our canoe, yet there was no alter- native. The banks were ovenlown, and we were obliged to pull ourselves up the river by the bushes and trees on the shore, as, the moment our canoe was outside the the bushes, in spite of the combined strength of six men with their paddles, she would run astern. Toiling for seven hours, without cessation, except to take two rac- coons out of a hollow tree, where they had been driven by the flood, we found that we had ascended three miles only, and being above the mouth of Pudding river, we concluded to '* cache" our canoe in the bushes, and try the rest of the way on foot. We found ourselves in a dense forest, but striking a bee line towards the south-east, after traveling some miles we struck the trail leading from the settlement to the falls, and at dark arrived at the house of a French- man near the Butte, and about three miles below Cham- poeg. Having no provision, 1 procured of the Frenchman a supper of fried venison, and a cup of tea, for which, with the privilege of furnishing a supper for ten thousand fleas, he charged me one dollar. It was the first bill of the kind I paid in Oregon, the people generally being quite hospitable. Next morning procceeded to Chanipoeg and found our TOUR TO VANCOUVER. 141 trusty horses not far from where we turned them loose. The water had risen to an amazing height ; farms were swept of their fences, and farmers suffered heavy losses in grain, the water rising several feet deep in some of their barns. Thomas McKay had recently built a large grist mill, and an old gentlemen by the name of Canning was tending the mill. In the morning when he awoke, as he slept in the mill, in the second story, the mill was standing in the centre of a large lake. Some persons at a distance, supposing that Canning must be in a perilous condition, procured a canoe, and sailing high over fields, fences, logs, &c,, soon arrived at the mill, and running their canoo into the window of the second story, found Canning perched upon a high box, in one corner of the mill, awaiting some one to rescue him from his danger. No essential damage was done the mill, but several hun- dred bushels of wheat were lost. The flood coming so suddenly upon the valley, the herds on the bottom lands had not time to make their escape. Horses, cattle, hogs, dfc, were swept away and drowned. This was a high flood, but from the appearance of the country, I am persuaded that it is subject to still greater inundations. Recovering our horses, we left Champoeg in the after- noon, and arrived at our homes the following evening, relieving our families from the painful anxiety into which they had been thrown for our safety in consecjuence of our exposure to the flood. ■vj; . , .I- ■ '.■:4-'.: lii mi CHAPTER IX. / , Panic — Indian troubles — Tour to the Interior — Causis — Precautions - Exci:emcnt increRses — Mr. Brewer'a letter — Tl;e Sub- Agent — Expedition rcs*>lv«d upon — Opposed by Dr. McLaughlin — Departure — A scuall — Ascent of the Columbia — Mount Hood — Romantic scenery — SabbatK encampment — Reflections — Remarkable rocks — Cascades — How formed — Indian tradition confirmed — La Dallas — Canasissa — Negotiation — De Shutes — John Day — Sa!)bath Re- flections — Arrival at Dr. Whitman's — Interview with the Kayuse chiefs — Excursion — Adventure of Mr. Perkins — Party proceeds — Snake river — Red wolf — Laperai — Accident — Grotesque exhibition — Temperance training —^ Re/. Mr. and Mrs. Spaulding — Return to Dr. Whitman's — Interesting negotia- tion—Closing feast — Homo ward— Story of the Walla-Walla chief — Petec Ogden — Arrival home, April 14. This settlement has been thrown into a panic by intelligence which has just been received from the upper country, concerning the hostile intentions of the Kayuse, Nez Perce, and Walla- Walla Indians. It appears that they have again threatened the destruction of the whites. Some time in October last, Indian report said that these tribes were coming down to kill off the Boston people, meaning those from the United States. This intelligence produced considerable excitement at the time, and induced the sub-agent of Indian Affairs to go directly to the upper country and ascertain the truth of the report, and if possible settle all matters of difficulty. On arriving among the Indians, he ascertained that the report was not without foundation ; but entered into such arrangements with them as appeared to give satisfaction. Thomas McKay contributed much to allay the excite- ment among them, and in connexion with the sub-agent, induced the Nez Perces to adopt a code of laws, and appoint a head chief and inferior chiefs, sufficient to carry the laws into execution. It had been the policy of the Hudson's Bay Company to destroy the chieftainship. TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 148 cut the different tribes into smaller clans, and divide their interests as far as posssible so as to weaken them, and render them incapable of injuring the whites, by pre- venting them from acting in concert. But the sub-agent adopted a different policy. The individual appointed to the high chieftainship over the Nez Perces, was one Ellis, as he was called by the English, who, having spent several years in the settlement on the Red river, east of the mountains, had, with a smattering of the English language, acquired a high sense of his own importance ; and consequently, after he was appointed chief, pursued a very haughty and overbearing course. The fulfillment of the laws which the agent recommended for their adoption, was required by Ellis with the utmost rigor. Individuals were severely punished for crimes which, from time immemorial, had been committed by the people with impunity. This occasioned suspicions in the minds of the Indians generally, that the whites de- signed the ultimate subjugation of their tribes. They saw in the laws they had adopted, a deep-laid scheme of the whites to destroy them, and take possession of their country. The arrival of a large party of emigrants about this time, and the sudden departure of Dr. Whit- man to the United States, with the avowed intention of brmging back with him as many as he could enlist for Oregon, served to hasten them to the above conclusion. That a great excitement existed ani'' ■ -; the Indiana in the interior, and that they designed i^ .uake war upon the settlement, was only known to the whites through the medium of vague report, until a letter was received from H. K. W. Perkins, at the Dalls, in which he informed us that the Wascopam and Walla- Walla Indians had communicated to him in substance the following inform- ation : that the Indians are very much exasperated against the whites in consequence of so many of the latter coming into the country, to destroy their game, and take away their lands ; that the Nez Perces dis- patched one of their chiefs last winter on snow shoes, to visit the Indians in the buffalo country east of Fort Hall, for the purpose of exciting them to cut off the party TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. that it is expected Dr. Whitman will bring back with him to settle the Nez Perce country ; that the Indians t».re endeavoring to form a general coalition for the pur- pose of destroying all the Boston people ; that it is not good to kill a part of them, and leave the rest, but that every one of them must be destroyed. This information produced a great excitement throughout the community, and almost every man had a j^an of his own by which to avert the impending storm. In the estimation of some, the Indians were to be upon us immediately, and it was unsafe to retire at night, for fear the settlement would be attacked before morning. The plan of the agent was to induce men to pledge themselves, under t' orfeiture of one hundred dollars in case of delinque to keep constantly on hand, and ready for use, either a good musket or a rifle, and one hundred charges of ammuni- tion, and to hold themselves in readiness to go at the call of the agent to any part of the country, not to exceed two days travel, for the purpose of defending the settle- ment, and repelling any savage invaders. This plan pleased some of the people, and they put down their names ; but many were much dissatisfied with it, and as we had no authority, no law, no order, for the time being, in the country, it was impossible to tell what would be the result, if the Indians should attempt to carry their threats into execution. April 14th. Information was brought to the settle- ment from the Klackamas tribe of Indians, who live three miles below the falls of the Wallamette, which served to increase the excitement occasioned by the reports from the interior. It appears that an Indian of the Molala tribe, connected with the Klackamas Indians by marriage, stole a horse from a man by the name of Anderson, and when asked by the latter if he had stolen his horse and rode him off, answered, " Yes, I stole your horse, and when I want another one I shall steal him also." To this Anderson replied, " If you stole my horse you must pay me for him." " Yes," said the Indian, " I will pay you for him, take that horse," pointing to a very poor horse which stood near by, with one eye out, and a very TOUR TO THE INTERIOR 145 porc back. Anderson replied, " That is a very poor horse and inine was a very good one; I shall not take him, and if you don't bring him back I will report you to Dr. White." "I am not afraid of Dr. White/' said the Indian, " let him come if he wants to, and bring the Boston people with him; he will find me prepared for him." Anderson not being able to effect a settlement with the Indian, immediately reported him to the agent, whereupon the latter wrote to a man at the falls by the name of Campbell, t) take a sufficient number of men armed with muskets , and go very early in the morning to the Indian camj>, and take the horse-thief a prisoner, and bring him up to the fulls. Accordingly, Campbell procured five men, and went to the camp as commandc d, but found thirty or forty Indians painted in the most hideous manner, and armed with muskets, bows and arrows, tomahawks, and scalping knives, and determined at all events to protect the horse-thief, and drive back those that should come to take him. Campbell rushed on to take the rogue, but met with such resistance from superiority of numbers, and finding that the enterprise, if urged forward, would terminate in bloodshed, if not in the loss of all their lives, sounded a retreat, and extri- cating himself from the Indians, returned to the falls. He communicated the results of his attempt to Dr. White, and the Do(itor started off immediately in com- pany with G. W. Le Breton, resolved to capture the thief and bring the tribe to terms. April 17th. The excitement still continued, former reports having been confirmed, and all were engaged in repairing guns, and securing ammunition. A report was ill circulation that Dr. McLaughlin refused to grant sur)- p'ies for any consideration to all those persons who sub- scribed the memorial praying the Congress of the United States to extend jurisdiction over Oregon. If this be s», the American population, as nearly all signed the memo- rial, will not be able to obtain ammunition, however necessary it may be, as there is none in the country except what may be found within the stockades of Van- . ■/•;^-. 1 146 TOUR TO THE INTERIOU. couvcr. 1 think, howevor, that the report is falso ll'jport says, furthermore, that the KUkitat Indians are collecting together back of the Tuality plains, but for what purpose is not known. The people on the plains^ consisting of about thirty families, are quite alarmed. Tliere is also a move among the Calapooahs. Shoefon, one of the principal men of the tribe, left this place a few days ago, and crossed the Wallamette river, declar- ing that he would never return until he came with a band of men to drive oii the Boston people. He was very much offended because some of his people were seized and flogged, through the influence of Dr. White, for having stolen horses from some of the missionaries, and flour from the mission mill. His influence is not very extensive among the Indians or we might have much to fear. The colony is indeed in a most defence- less condition; two hundred Indians, divided into four bands, might destroy the entire settlement in one night. In the evening of the 17th, Dr. White arrived at my house bringing intelligence from the falls. He and Mr. Le Breton attempted to go to the falls on horseback, but in trying to ford Haunchauke river, they found the water so deep that they were obliged to swim, and the Doctor turned his horse's head, and came out the side he went in; but Lc Breton, being the better mounted of the two, succeeded in gaining the opposite shore; and having the Doctor's letters in his possession, continued on to the Jalls. The Doctor returned to the settlement. Le Breton returned the following day, and brought information from the five men who attempted to take the Indian who had stolen Anderson's horse, that soon after their retreat the Indians became alarmed and OK'^ks up in great haste; but before they left, they informed Anderson that the hprse they had stolen from him was worn out and good for nothing, and tying a good horse to a tree near An- derson's house, they told him that he must take that and be satisfied. They then hurried away, saying that they should not be seen in that region again. It was ascer- tained that the Klackamas Indians had nothing to do with the stolen horse; that it was a band of the Molalas, the i.^jir>artfrfau TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 147 d y h lie very same rascals tliat stole a horse from me two jears before, and after having him in their possession several v/eeks, brought him down within a few miles of my house, where they encamped, and where I went with one man and took him from, the midst of more than fifty grim looking savages. On the 20th of April, a letter was received in the settlement, written by H. B. Br v p»*. at the Dalls, which brings the latest intelligence froi _■ the infected region. This letter states that the Indians in the interior talk much of war, and Mr. Brewer urges Dr. White to come up without delay, and endeavor to allay the excitement, tie does not inform us that the Indians design any evil toward the whites, but says that the war is to be between themselves, but that the Boston people have much to fear. As the Doctor, in his visit to the interior last Oc- tober, left an appointment to meet the Walla-Walla Indians and the K •t rV, ^ 106 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. -SI; It! mi li % m as we desired, as many of them were off among the mountains, hunting elk. As they must be informed of the meeting, it would be several days before the people could get together. We ascertained, hov/ever, that this was a mere pretence. They had been informed that Ellis, the Ncz Perce chief, was coming down to meet us on their ground, and this had .determined them not to have any meeting until Ellis should arrive. But as we had learned that Ellis was coming with his warriors, consisting of several hundred — for what purpose we could not ascertain, some saying to make war upon the Kay uses— we came to the conclusion that the meeting of the two tribes should, if possible, be prevented. While considering this subject, we were solicited by the chiefs to take a ride among the Indian plantations. Accordingly, a party was made out which would have made all the sacerdotal order laugh to contemplate. The I'aptain of the party was a Kay use chief, by the name of Peathercap : and of all the Indians I have seen he has a countenance the most savage. But, with this, there is a dignity and decision manifested in his move- ments, which might put many a white man to the blush. He is about five feet ten inches high ; has a voice of the stentorian order, and possesses all the native character- istics of an orator. His dress was quite fantastical, being composed of skin breeches, a striped aliirt, which he wore over his breeches, and a scarlet coat, gilted off very much in the fashion of the regimentals of a British general. His head-dress was composed, first of a cotton handkerchief thrown loosely over his head, then a cap made of otter skin over the handkerchief, and on the top of the cap, fastened with savage taste, the long hair of a white horse's tail, which hung in ringlets down the backside of his neck. Thus rigged, he was prepared to guide us on our tour of pleasure. An Indian woman and hei daughter joined our party, of whom mention has been made in another part of this narrative. The old woman lived many yiears with Thomas McKay, but he finally casit her on, and she is now the wife of an old hali-brced il TOUR TO THE INTERIOB. 1G7 Iroquois, by the name of Jo-Gray. Her daughter is the wife of Cliarles lioe. They both live in the lower Country, but were up on a visit to their relatives among the Indians. Their dreeses were an imitation of the Jioston fashions, but were much deiiled by the smoke, dirt, and grease of wigwams. Thev were both astride tJieir horses, the yomiger carrying her little sou before her. There were also three other Indians, without note- worthy peculiarities. Mr. Giger, who is a small man, mounted & donkey which was about the size of a New foundland dog, and exceedingly antic, just navmg re- cruited from a journey across the Rocky mountains. In addition to these, Mrs. Whitman, Dr. White and myself made up the party. Feathercap led us about one mile, across a low piece of fertile ground, when we arrived at the nearest plantations. We ascertained that about sixty of the Kayuses had commenced cultivating the ground. They each have fenced around a small piece of ground, from one-fourth of an acre, to three acrea^ and each one is entitled only to what he raises himself They had in the ground wheat, corn, peas and potatoes Many of the places were well fenced and Well cultivated and the crops looked flourishing. The Indians appearec highly pleased that we went out to see their farms, am told us they were very glad that they had been learnci to till the ground. They have already learned that then livelihood, which previously was very precarious, b\ their little farms, is fully secured to them. This, they say, makes their hearts glad. Our motley party proceeded in high glee, alternate!* conversing in the English, Chenook, and Walla-WalJk languages, and remarking upon whatever presented itselj before us. The little man on the hias tenas (very Httlts mule, was the subject of much amusement with tl** Indians ; and in the novelty and excitement of our litl «• excursion, the subject of war and blood was entircv forgotten. W(; passed pleasantly along, now crossn>tf a beautiful plum, blooming with flowers, which sett (oj th their rich ooople, was fifty or sixty miles off, and a letter was sent lo him to come down and meet us. Tuesday, ItJth. Joseph, who is second to Ellis in the chieftainship, made a martial display of his band, in a little plain in the rear of the house, where he entertained us with a sham fight. We estimated the number under Joseph at seven hundred. Arrayed in their war dress, they made a very savage, not to say imposmg, appear- ance. \ TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 178 Wednesday, 17th. Joseph called out his band and awaited the arrival of Ellis. We were requested to take our places in the front ranks of Joseph's band, in the centre, and soon appeared, coming over the moun- tain, behind which had bocn waiting, a cloud of Indians, that spread itself over its sides, 'the mountain seemed alive, as hundreds of Indians came moving towards the valley. They were all mounted on their best horses, and these were ornamented with scarlet belts and head dresses, while tassels dangled from their ears. They ar- rived on the borders of the plain, and the two bands were separated from each other about fifty rods, and now the scene that presented itself begj^ars description. A thou- sand savages rushed into all the mantevers of a deadly fight, while the roar of musketry, the shrill sound of the war whistle, the horrible yelling, and the dashing too and fro upon their fiery steeds, which continued for half an hour, and approached us nearer and nearer until the froth from their horse's nostrils would fiy into oiir f^vjes "as they passed — these, with the savage pomposity with which they were caparisoned, and the frightful manner in which they were daubed with paint, their fiery visa- ges being striped with red, black, white, and yellow, were all calculated not only to inspire terror, but a dread of savage furv in the mind of every beholder. At the very height oi the excitement, when it appeared that the next whirl of the savage cavalry would trample us all beneath their feet> Ellis stretched himself up to his utmost height upon the back of his splendid charger, and waving his hand over the dark mass, instantly all was quiet, and the terrifying yell of the savage was succeeded by profound silence. Ail dismounted, and the chiefs and principal men, shook hands with us, in token of friend- ship. All again mounted, ourselves joining the troop on horses provided by the Indians for our use, and thev marched us back over the hill to a little plain beyond, for the purpose of entertaining us with a still farther exhibition of their customs. Connected with Ellis's band were some braves whom the whole nation delight to honor. The Blackfeet M m w m 174 TOCR TO THE INTKStlOR, Hi If! I m Indians have always been the deadly enemies of tl e Nez Perces> and ol' ull the braves, none are honored so much as those who have killed Blackfeet. One of ti)em then present has killed twelve with his own handrf, taken their scalps and muskets, and brought them as trophies to his lodge. This he had done to revenue the death of an only brother, who, according to his story, was treacherously murdered by the Blackfeet. A largo circle was formed around this brave, he occupying the centre of the circle, bearing on one arm the muskets he had captured from the enemy, and hanging on the other the scalps he had taken. He displayed these trophic? before the multitude, and at the same time, gave a history of the manner in which each one was taken. Ellis said he was the greatest brave in the nation, and they always honor him in this way. A terrible battle had been re cently fought by a party of the Nez Perces with a party of Blackfeet, in which the former were victorious. Thi3 battle was acted to the life, with the exception that no blood was shed. The scene then closed with a war dance, conducted by a chief whom the whites designate by the name of " Lawyer/' and in whom is combined the cunning and shrewdness of the Indian, with the ability and penetration of the statesman. Though this savage *'training" was more exciting than any martial display I had ever witnessed, yet it closed up quietly and peacefully, and as it had been conducted upon strictly temperance principles, all retired from the scene perfectly sober. At dark, of the thousand Indians present during the day, scarcely one was to be sefen outside of his iodge. Ascertaining from Ellis that he designed to go down to meet the Kayuses when we returned, with some of his men, for the purpose of inducing them to accept of the laws which the Nez i'erces had received, and with which ihey were well pleased, we waived our objeciions against his going, and on TImrsday, the 18th, prepared to take our departure. Here T would take occasion to observe, that the Rev, Mr- Spaulding and his worthy < ompaoion are laboring TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. J75 ^'mt faithfully for both the gpiritual and temporal good of this people, and in no place have 1 seen more visible fruits of labor thus bestowed. There are few missionaries in any part • • the world more worthy of the coniidence of the church that employs them, than these self-sacri- ficing servants of Jesus Christ. Far away from all civilized society, and depending for their safety from the fury of excited savao;es, alone in the protection of Heaven, they are entitled to the sympathies and prayers of the whole christian church. Bidding them farewell, we re-crossed the Clear- Water, where our horses were in waiting, rode back to Red Wolf's place, and slept. Next morning sent an Indian out among the hills to hunt for our horses, and as we were finishing our break- fast, which our boys had prepared for us, Red Wolf came out of his lodge and rung a large hand-bell, to call the Indians from the other lodges to their morning prayers. All assembled to the number of one hundred, an exhortation or harangue was given them by one of the chiefs, and then singing a hymn in the Indian tongue, two engaged in prayer. I was greatly surprised, in traveling through the Indian country, to find that these outv/ard forms of Christianity are observed in almost every lodge. The Indians generally are nominally chris- tian, and about equally divided betwixt the Protestant and Catholic religion. At eight o'clock, a hallooing upon the side of the mountain indicated that our horses were found, and would soon be at our camp. Packing, saddling, and bridling were done in short order, and, Mr. Spaulding joining our party, we soon left the valley of the Snake River behind us. Examining the country more critically on our return than when we went out, we found it to be indescribably beautiful and picturesque, srmietimcs rising into the romantic and sublime, and generally well adapted to all pastoral purposes. No tiniber of any consequence appeared, except on the banks of the streams. Crossing the Tookanan, and Toosha, we stop- ped for supper on a beautiful brook, called Imaispa. We found we had barely provisions enough for this meal. -•^^ wm i\ na TOUR TO THE INTEHIOK. and two of us resolved to proceed, rather than go hun- gry all the next day. Lettnig our horses crop the gi?«is for an hour, we traveled on ; Mr. Perkins and Mr. Spaulding preferruig to remain where they were till morning. At daybreak we arrived at Dr. Whitman's, having set upon our horses all night. During our absence the Kayuses had all collected within a few miles of Dr. Whitman's, and were prepar- ing for the great meeting with the Nez Perces, on our return. On Saturday, 20th, Ellis, with three hundred '^ his people, arrived, and camped within a short distai t f the mis.sion. Wearied out by excessive labor, we put oft* the meeting of the two tribes until the ensuing week. Sunday morning about one hundred Indians assembled at the mission for religious worship, and were addressed by all the missionaries present. In the afternoon I walked out on the plain a short distance, and soon found myself on a little rise of ground, where were two graves, one of which was inclosed in a picket. Inquir- ing who was buried there, my attendant replied, " The grave inside the picket is that of the only child, a little daughter, of Mr. and Mrs. Whitman, who was drowned in that creek which passes near the house. That on the outside incloses the remains of Joseph, the Hawaiian, who lived with Dr. Whitman a number of years, and served him faithfully while he lived." This Hawaiian was a converted man, and possessing considerable talent, he was very useful to the mission. Though he was a great lover of the Indians, and would do all he could for their welfare, yet, when he died, not one of them could be prevailed upon to assist in carrying him to the grave; but Dr. Whitman, and Mr. Pom'brun, of Fort Walla- Walla, bore him upon their shoulders to the house appointed for all the living. I returned from this excursion reflecting upon the severe trials of missionaries, many of whom are com- pelled to bury their offspring with their own hands. |{v Preached in the afternoon to seven Americans, two R!-#^ ..■- ■j^;i:^ i^Ju,!isf»:/^!,y^3> ■Wfc.:-*^- ^ TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. ;ti a. of whom came in from their camp, three miles distant, where they were preparing to cross the mountains to the United States. One of these, Wm. C. Sutton, is truly " a brand plucked from the burning." For three years he has been a living witness of the power of the go,spel to save even the chief of sinners. He lived for many years in the Rocky mountains, and contracted all the vices common to the moufi'iineers ; but abandoning the trapper's life, and coming down among the mission- aries in the lower country, he was poM'erfully awakened to see the folly of his former course, and after struggling for days on the brink of despair, was brought "from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan to the living God." Monday, 22d. We were visited by a number of Indians in the morning, among whom was one by the name of Jacob, whose history is a clear exhibition of the cunning and wonderful credulity of the Indians. By some means he obtained a large picture from the whites, which he was told represented the devil, and Indian shrewdness at once suggested to him that he could use the picture greatly to his advantage among his people, who had always believed that an evil spirit existed, and had much to do in inflicting misery upon the Indians. Taking good care to keep his picture concealed, and preparing the way for the people to receive him in his supernatural character, by spending much of his time alone, apparently in solemn thought, and in performing his conjurations, he at length gave out that he had Dla- bolus under his control, and could bring him up at any time, in the sight of the people. To prove his assertion, he left the camp, charging the people to watch him, and as he went b ;hind a httle breastwork, several rods olT, which he hac' prepared for the occasion, to keep their eyes fixed upon the top of the breastwork. Performing his incantations awhile, at length Diaholus appeared tc fhe terrified Indians, risir.g slowly above the breastwork Jacob had accomplished his object, proved himself mas- ter of the Devil, and by this munoeuver secured to him self unbounded influence among his people. 8 ■"'"' ■wmm» v mmm* m n Mwp**"*"**^****** lilt; ' Bi 178 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. During tlie clay, Nez Perce Indians continued tc arrive, until six hundred people, and a thousand horses, appeared on the plains. The Ka5^use and Walla- Walla bands united, forming a troop of three hundred men, all mounted. These met ihe Nez Perces on the plain in front of Dr. Whitman's house, and then a scene similar to that at Lapwai, presented itself. The Indians worked themselves up into a high state of excitement, and Ellis said afterwards that he thought the Kayuses were de- termined to fight in good earnest. Tauitau, the Catholic chief, as ho aporoached us, appeared quite angry, and disposed to quarrel. Seeing the excitement increase, and fearing that it might end seriously, unless the atten- tion of the Indians could be drawn to some other subject, Mr. Spaulding gave notice that ail would repair to Dr. W.'s house, for the purpose of tallapoosa, (worship). But Tauitau came forward in a very boisterous manner, and inquired what we had made all this disturbance for. We repaired to the house, followed by several hundred Indians, and after engaging in a season of prayer, found that the excitement had died away, and the Indians were scattering to their lodges for the night. Tuesday, 23d. The chiefs and principal men of both tribes came together at Dr. Whitman's to hear what we had to say. They were called to order by Tauitau, who by this time had got over his excitement, and then was placed before them the object of our visit. Among other things they were told that much had been said about war, and we had come to assure them that they had nothing to fear from that quarter ; that the Presi- dent of the United States had not sent the Doctor to their country, to make war upon them, but to enter into arrangements with them to regulate their intercourse with the white people. We were not there to catch them in a trap as a man would catch a beaver, but to do tiiem good ; and if they would lay aside their former practicevS and prejudices, stop their quarrels, cultivate their lands, and receive good laws, they might become a great and a happy people ; that in order to do tliis, they must ail be united, for they were but few in conrnparison u "mmmmmmBsmm fOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 179 tc ses, alia all in 10 the whites ; and if they were not fell of one heart, they would be able to accomplish nothing ; that the chj jfs should set the example and love each other, and not get proud and haughty, but consider the people as their brothers and their children, and labor to do them good ; that the people should be obedient, and in their morning and evening prayers they should remember their chiefs. Liberty was then given for the chiefs to speak, and Ellis remarked that it would not be proper for the Nez Perce chiefs to speak until the Kayuse people should receive the laws. The Kayuse chiefs replied, " If you want us to receive the laws, bring them forward and let us see them, as we cannot take them unless we know what they are." A speech was then delivered, to the young men to impress them favorably with regard to the laws. They were told that they would soon take the places of the old men, and they should be willing to act for the good of the people ; that they should not go here and there and spreaa false reports about war ; and that this had been the cause of all the difficulty and excitement which had prevailed among them during the past winter. The laws were then read, first in English, and then in the Nez Perce. Yellow Serpent then rose and said : " 1 have a mes- sage to you. Where are these laws from'? Are they from God or from the earth? I would that you might say, they were from God. But I think they are from the earth, because, from what I know of white men they do not honor these laws. In answer to this, the people were informed that the laws were recognized by God, and imposed on men in all civilized countries. Yellow Serpent was pleased with the explanation, and said that it M'as according to the instructions he had received from others, and he was very glad to learn that it was so, because many of his people had been angry with him when he had whipped them for crime, and had told him that God would send him to hell for it, and he was glad to know that it \vm pleasing to God." wr i.^/> »» MWMW*"' I ■ O Wi MH I l ■BH 180 rOUR TO THE INTERIOR. Telaukaikt, a Kayuse chief, rose and said : " What do you read the laws for before we take them ! We do not take the laws because Tauitau says so. He is a (/atholic, and as a people we do not follow his worship." Dr. White replied that. this did not make any dilference about law ; that the people in the States had difterent modes of worship, yet all had one law. Then a chief, called the Prince, arose and said : " 1 understand you gave us liberty to examine every law — all the words and lines — and as questions are asked about it, we should get a better understanding of it. The people of this country have but one mind about it. I have something to say, but perhaps the fieople will dispute me. As a body, we have not had an opportunity to consult, therefore you come to us as in a wind, and speak to us as to the air, as we have no point, and we cannot speak because we have no point before us. The business before us is whole, like a body we have not dissected it. And perhaps you will say that it is out of place for me to speak, because I am not a great chief. Once I had influence, but now I have but little." Here lie was about to sit down, but was told to go on. He then said, — " When the whites first came among us, we had no cattle, they have given us none ; what we have now got we have obtained by an exchange of property. A long time ago Lewis and Clark came to this country, and I want to know what they said about us. Did they say that they found friends or enemies here]" Being told that they spoke well of the Indians, the prince said, " that is a reason why the whites should unite with us, and all become one people. Those who have been here before you, have left us no memorial of their kindness, by giving us presents. We speak by way of favor. If you have any benefit to bestow, we will then speak more freely. One thing that we can speak about is cattle, and the reason why we cannot speak out now is because we have not the thing before us. My people are poor and blind, and we must have something tangible. Other chiefs have bewildered me since they came ; yet I am from an honorable stock. ri; TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 181 ■ Promises which have been made to me and my fathers, have not been fulfilled, and 1 am made miserable ; but it will not answer for me to speak out, for my people do not consider me as their chief. One thing more ; you have reminded me of what was promised me sometime ago, and 1 am inclined to follow on and see ; though 1 have been giving my beaver to the whites, and have received many promises, and have always been disap pointed. I want to know what you are going to do." lllutin, or Big Belly, then arose and said, that the old men were wearied with the wickedness of the young men. That if he was alone, he could say yes at once to the laws, and that the reason why the young men did not feel as he felt was because they had stolen property in their hands, and the laws condemned stealing. But he assured them that the laws were calculated to do them good, and not evil. But this did not satisfy the prince. He desired that tnv, good which it was proposed to do them by adopting the laws, might be put in a tangible form before them. He said that it had been a long time since the country had been discovered by whites, and that ever since that time, people had been coming along, and promising to do them good ; but they had all passed by and left no blessing behind them. That the Hudson's Bay Company had persuaded them lo continue with them, and not go after the Americans ; that if the Americans designed to do them good why did they not bring goods with them to leave with the Indians ( that they were fools to Hsten to what the Yankees had to say ; tnat they would only talk, but the company would both talk and give them presents. In reply to this the Doctor told them that he did not come to them as a missionary, nor as a trader. It was now nearly night, but just before the mcieting closed a gun was fired in one of the lodges, and directly John, the Hawaiian, came running to the house witn his hand up to his head, and the blood running down his face, 8iid as he came into the assembly he cried out ' ? ptutttMiMk iir iiniiii-'iTir Hiirnfjimiiii UUM^jt ■■"»s>-«c^- ■<:!. «. •i^,..-^.^ '■•-' irniw tf iii ril'rtii i R i j ini Hill 192 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 1 '! 111! with great agitation, " Indian, he kille me I Indian, he kille me I" John had been to the lodge for the purpose of trading with the young Indians, and the Indians became angry at John and threatened to shoot him. Jojjn told them that they dare not do it, ard one of them instantly seized a musket and lodged the contents of it in the side of John's head. Fortunately there was no ball in the gun, consequently the results were not serious, though a hole was cut to the bone, an inch in diameter. In the evening Ellis and Lawyer came in to have a talk. They said they expected pay for being chiefs, and wished to know how much salary Dr. White was going to give them. Ellis said he had counted the months he had been in office, and thought that enough was due him to make -him rich. They left at a late hour without receiving any satisfaction. Wednesday, 24th. Some hundreds again assembled to resume the business relative to laws ; but the first thing investigated was the shooting of John. The Indian, immediately after committing the deed, had fled, but the chiefs took summary measures to bring him back. He was brought before the assembly and found guilty of the crime, but the sentence was postponed until they received the laws. The Indians then continued to speak in reference to the laws, and their speeches were grave, energetic, mighty and eloquent, and generally in favor of receiving the laws. After all had spoken it was signified that they were ready for the vote whether they would take the laws or not, and the vote was unanimous in the affirmative. Having adopted the laws, it was now necessary to elect their chiefs, according to the provisions of the law ; and Tauitau was nominated to the high chieftainship. Some were opposed ; a majority were in favor, and while the question was pending Tauitau rose and said : " My friends, my friends, I rise to speak to you, and I want you all to listen." He then adverted to their past histo- -ies, and told them how much thev had suffered in »sfe ma imsmmsmmmm TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 18d consequence of their divisions and quarrels, and ther inquired if they woula lay aside all their past difficulties, and come up and support him, if he would accept of the chieftainship. It was now time to close for that day, and the vote bein^ put, Tauitau was declared duly elected to the high chieftainship of the Kayuse tribe. Before the meeting adjourned, Dr. White presented tho Indians with a fat ox which he bought of the mission, and Mrs. Whitman gave them a fat hog. These they butchered directly, and feasted upcn them till ten o'clock at night, when all was consumed. Thursday, 25th. A number of the chiefs came early in morning at our request, to settle a difficulty concerning some horses which they gave to Rev. Jason Lee, when he first came to Oregon, Mr. Lee having requested us to come to an arrangement with them, if possible. After a long talk, we succeeded in settling with them by propo- sing to give them a cow for each horse that they had given Mr. Lee. We found that the Indians always ex- pect to be well paid for a present. After this the Indians again assembled, and Tauitau came forward and certified that he had made up his mind that he could not accept of the chieftainship in consequence of the difference of his religion from that of the most of his people. He was accordingly excused from serving, and Five Crows, his brother, was immedi- ately nominated. When the virtues and firmness of Five Crows were spoken of, the people exclaimed, " our hearts go towards him with a rush." His election was nearly unanimous, and highly pleasing to the whites, of whom he is a great friend, particularly of the Americans. He was so affected when his appointment was announced, that he wept. It required but a short time to elect the subordinate chiefs, after which Mr. Perkins and myself addressed the meeting on the subject of the discovery of the country by Americans, their settling in it, and the necessity of living together on friendly terms; and then the meeting, which had been continued for four days, and at some statfes of which the utmost excitement had pre* m \ - ii M &;«*rr^ S4 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. V liled, came to a peaceful conclusion, and all weii* aboul pfeparing for the closing feast. A second ox was butchered, cut into small pieces and boiled. It was then spread out upon the grass, and cut into mouthfuls, put on to plates, pans, pail covers, and pieces of boards, and placed along in the centre of a large temporary lodge, made of skins, and about seventy- five feet long. The people were then all called together, and took their seats on the ground, ourselves being con- ducted by the chiefs to some seats of skins prepared on the windward side of the lodge, so that we would be secure from the smoke, all, when seated, forming a lengthened ring around the food, three and four persons deep. Five Crows called the table to order, when a blessing was asked; then several Indians passed around the meat to all present, the number, as near as we could judge, being six hundred, embrachig men, women and ♦ hildren. Fingers were used instead of forks, and the blattering of teeth and smacking of lips served as music while the process of mastication was going on. All seemed intent upon the business before them; laws, speeches, and war, were lost sight of, and the eating of the ox absorbed every other consideration. It was only necessary for each person to eat one pound, and all would be consumed. In twenty minutes the ox which, three hours before, was peacefully feeding on the prairie, was lodged in the stomachs of six hundred Indians. After the feast Ellis arose and said that it was fashionable among the Indians for all the chiefs to unite with the whites at such a time as this, in smoking the pipe, in token of their alliance and friendship. Accordingly, the pipe of peace was brought forward. Its stem was one inch in diameter, and three feet long, and the bowl four inches long and two in diameter, and made out of a spe-' cies of dark free-stone. Ellis passed it around, to the chiefs first, and then to the whites, after which speeches were delivered by Five Crows, Ellis, Lawyer, Brothers, Tauitau, and Yellow Serpent; a season of prayer fol- lowed and the scene was closed. Next morning the Indians all came to give us the friendly hand before we t^m n rng mmmmwimmu ^ TOUR TO THE INTERtOR. 185 parted; and the chiefs informed us that they nad sen- tenced the Indian who shot John to a {)unishment of forty lashes on his bare bacii. Thus closed our negotiations, and the immense crowd of Indians, taking their leave, returned to their homes in the utmost order. In the evening all was still, and, walking out to the camping ground where the fires were still blazing, I found but one solitary old Indian, who was boiling up the feet of the ox for his next day's supplies. Saturday, 27th. The forenoon was employed in pre- paring to return home; and at one, p. m., took our depar- ture from Waialetpu. Mrs. Whitman accompanied us back to the lower country. Traveled fourteen miles, and encamped for the Sabbath on a branch of the Walla- Walla River, called the Toosha, near its mouth. The land along the Walla- Walla and its tributaries is gener- ally very fertile, except in those places where it is strongly impregnated with sal soda. The face of the country is truly beautiful. Monday, 29th. Moved camp, and proceeding a few miles, met the Rev. Mr. Eolls from Tshimkain, a mission station among the Spokan Indians. He was on his way to Waialetpu and Lapwai, and thentre home. He gave us an account of his mission, rather discouraging upon the whole, from the opposition arrayed against him from the Catholics. Leaving him to pursue his journey alone, we continued on to fort Walla- Walla, and dined with Mr. McKinley, who has charge of it. Here Mrs. Whit- man decided to stop for the arrival of the Hudson's Bay Company's brigade of boats from the upper forts, which was expected m a day or two, preferring that mode of conveyance to riding on horse-back. After dinner we crossed the Walla- Walla river, and desiring to make some observations in the vicinity, encamped for the night. Towards evening I. walked out alone to take a view of the burying ground of the Walla- Walla tribe. It was whitened with the bones of horses that had been slain over the graves of their owners, while here and there could be seen a human skull lying by the side of a horse's head. One of the most lingular cases of volun 8* 1 1 1 .1: t>ai ■ 1i: ■t.JH IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. //^/ 1.0 I.I lAO 111112.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation « 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ ^\ ^ \ ^^v^o 'o".^ ^^..^ L^ .* f . 4^ Qi 186 TOUR TO THE INTKRIOR. tary interment recorded in the annals of heathen super- stition, took place in this buryinff ground some twenty- five years ago. There resided in this vicinity a man belonging to the Walla- Walla tribe, who, rising by his own merits, became the most successful warrior, and re- nowned chieftain of which the Walla- Wallas could ever boast. During his life, his people were the terror of all the surrounding tribes; and wherever he led them out against the enemy, he Was sure to bring them back in triumph, bearing the numerous trophies of his victories in the form of scalps, muskets, shields, &c. These he hung as so many ornaments, to the sides of his lodge. Years of uninterrupted prosperity passed, and the old man saw his five sons grow up by his side. As they arrived to manhood, they strikingly resembled himself, not only in their tall, athletic and commanding forms, but also in their astonishing bravery and indomitable will. His word was the law of his tribe, and he had learned even his own people to tremble at his nod. His voice of command was never disobeyed, whether raised amidst the tumult of battle, the quiet of his village, or at the fire side of his own wigwam. He was justly proud of his sons, and saw, in the changeless affection they bee to their father, their love to one another, and their unri- valed talents, not only his own comfort and support in old age, when he would become useless, but also the continued prosperity of his beloved tribe. Hut a cloud was rising to darken the prospects of the aged chief. His eldest son, the glory of the tribe, the heir to the chieftainship, was slain in battle, and the old man's grief was inconsolable. But he had other sons, and around them clustered his hopes. His eldest living one was now the heir, and every way qualified to suc- ceed him, but he had not ceased wailing for the eldest before the second was cut down; and then the third, and the fourth, some in battle, and some by disease. Now his youngest, Benjamin, alone was left; and the cup of the old man's grief was nearly full. Bitterly Hid he complain of that cruel fate that had bereft him of his sons, and he found consolation only in the refle'/i'v^ that "■"■'^'•"^'•^•"'•^■^■*" ifilii TOUR TO THE 1NTERIOK. is-j they had been great warriors, and every way worthy of their father. But now they were dead, and all his affec- tions centered in his youngest boy. Surely, thought he, my only remaining son of five, as noble as ever father could boast, will hve to be my support in my declining years; he will be my staff when my palsied limbs can scarcely bear me in and out of my wigwam; he will close my eyes when I lie down to die; he will mourn over my grave when I am buried; he will heir my property when I am no more, and as chief of the Walla- Walla nation he Avill follow in the footsteps of his father. But disease was already preying upon the vitals of that beloved son, and the father felt his last prop crumble benep.th him, as his son expired bpibre his eyes. Like a person under the influence of some desperate resolution, he left the wigwam where lay the wreck of his hopes, and went to fort Walla- Walla, which was commanded by Englishmen, and told them of the death of his last son, and requested them to make arrangements to have him buried according to the Enghsh custom. Comply- ing with his request, the dead body was put into a coffin, the funeral service read, and the dark procession moved to the grave, the people showing the sincerity of their sorrow by bitter wailing and tears; but the old man's grief was too deep thus to find relief. The coffin was lowered into the deep dug grave, and the bearers were about to fill it with earth, when the old man stepped upon the grave's mouth and examined the dark abode of his son, then commanded them to desist until he had deliv- ered a message to the people. With a countenance indicating a settled purpose of soul, he looked around upon his beloved people, whose wailings had already given place to a death-like silence, and commanded them to listen to the trembling voice of their old chief, while he delivered to them his last speech. He then rehearsed before them the history of his life, painting, in glowing colors, the successes which had invariably attended him io the numerous wars in which he had been involved, with the surrounding tribes; the splendid trophies taken from the enemy with which his lodge was adorned, and the 188 TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. it M m t elevated position to which he had raised the Walla- Wallas, by the prowess of his arm ; and then with a heart throbbing with emotion he traced the history of his doting sons. He had sustained them in infancy; he had taught them to love and to obey him ; he had trained them to be warriors; he had seen them rush bravely into the deadly fight, and bear off the palm of victory; and he had fondly hoped that they would have long survived him. But a cruel fate had robbed him of his boys; his last hope had perished, the sun of his pros- perity had set, and left him surrounded with the darkness of despair; and he was now like a tree whose branches had been broken off, and whose trunk had been shattered to pieces by the successive strokes of the thunder-bolt. And then assuring them that no entreaty should prevent him from accomplishing his design, he announced to them the startling fact, that he had resolved not to survive the buriiil of his youngest son; and rushing into the grave he stretched himself upon the coffin of his Son, and com- manded the people to bury him with his beloved boy. A general burst of lamentation from the multitude sur- rounding the grave rose upon the breeze as the last com- mand of the mighty chief was as promptly obeyed as any he had ever issued in the day of battle. Thus perished the glory of the Walla- Walla nation. Fort Walla- Walla is situated on the left bank of the ColumGia, just above the mouth of the Walla- Walla River. It may more properly be called a trading post, as it looks but little like a fort except that two or three small buildings are enclosed in an adobey wall, about twelve feet high. The company and some private indi- viduals met with considerable loss, not long ago, the burning of this fort, which was supposed to been fired by the Indians. The land around is barren, though the face of the country is good. from have very The company cultivate a farm about three miles from the fort, on the banks of the Walla- Walla. Tuesday, 30th. Rode sixty-five miles, but on the 31st, both man and beast were so fatigued that we were una- ble to travel more than twenty-five miles. During this TOUR TO TII£ INTERIOR. 169 clay I proceeded on in advance of the party about ono mile, and stop{)ing my horse, dismounted, and tooii my blanket from my saddle, threw it upon the ground, lay down upon it, and instantly dropt into a sound sleep. There I should doubtless have remained for hours, if one of the party, who had fallen in the rear, had not awak- ened me, the others having passed within a few feet without my knowing it. Thursday, June 1st. Arrived at the mission station below the Dalls, where we met with news from the lower country, ships having arrived in the Columbia River, bringing letters, goods anJ passengers for Oregon. As Dr. White expected to be detained some time at the Dalls, I resolved to proceed homeward the first oppor- tanity. Fortunately the brigade of boats for which Mrs. Whitman awaited at Walla- Walla, arrived at the Dalls a few hours after we did ; and applying to Mr. Ogden, who had command of the brigade, I obtained a passage in his boat dc wn the Columbia River to Fort Vancouver. The boats were nine in number, each ca- pable of carrying five or six tons ; all loaded with furs which had been collected in the vast interior, and now on their way to the general depot at Vancouver, where they were to be examined, dried, packed and shipped for London. Associated with Mr. Ogden were Mr. ^McDonald, and Mr. Ermatinger, the two former being ^hief factors in the company, and the latter a chief tra- iler, both honorable and lucrative offices. Sixty men Were required to man the boats, and these were all French Canadians, and half-caste Iroquois. We all remained at the Dalls over night, and on F ' day, the 2d of June, moved down the river a few miles, and were met with a head wind, which soon blew to a gale, compelling us to put to shore, which we succeeded in gaining with some difficulty, breaking one of our boats against the rocks, in the attempt. Here we were detained for some hours, during which Mr. Ogden rela- ted some of his wonderful adventures among the Indians with whom he had resided for more than thirty years. He was an eve witness to a remarkable circumstance 190 TOUR 10 THE INTERIOR. ■ 4 y Iv H'l R! , that transpired at the Dalls, during one of his voyages up the Columbia. He arrived at he Dalls on the Sab- bath day, and seeing a congregation of some three hun- dred Indians assembled not far from the river, he drew near to ascertain the cause, and found the Rev. H. K. W. Perkins dispensing to them the word of reconcilia- tion, through a crucified Redeemer. There was sitting in the outskirts of the congregation an Indian woman who had been, for many years, a doctress in the tribe, and who had just expended all her skill upon a patient, the only son of a man whose wigwam was not far dis- tant, and for the recoveiy of whose son she had become responsible, by consenting to becc.ne his physician. Ail her efforts to remove the disease were unavailing, the father was doomed to see his son expire. Believing thai the doctress had the power of preserving life or inflicting death according to her will, and that instead of curing she had killed his boy, he resolved upon the most sum- mary revenge. Leaving his dead son in the lodge, he broke into the congregation with a large butcher-knife m his hand, and rushing upon the now terrified doctress, seized her by the hair, and with one blow across her throat, laid her dead at his feet. The wind continued to blow until nearly midnight, when a loud call from the pilot warned us that we must leave camp. Though it was very dark, the voyageurs were well acquainted with the river, and continued to ply the oars until three o'clock in the morning, when they brought up a few miles above the cascades, to wait for daylight. In the morning proceeded to the cascades, where we were detained for several hours, while the voyageurs carried their boats and furs across a portage of half a mile. . * r " The portage was made, and the boats again loaded, but still there were fearful rapids below, which they de- signed to run. Mr. Ogden preferring to walk across ?. point of land down to the foot of the first rapid, I vol- unteered to accompany him, and coming to an eddy below the point, we awaited the arrival of the boats. Soon the first came, booming around the point, and ft- liisMittiiiiiiiiii TOUR TO THE INTERIOR. 191 thrown violently up and down by the rolling current , Chen the second, and the third, and so on, till the whole nine appeared in sight. Only two of them gained the eddy, in one of which was Mrs. Whitman; all the others were borne down the tumbling torrent with fearful fury, and it appeared to us on shore, that they must inevitably be lost. One only was capsized, and its crew of eight men struggled hard in the mighty current, until they were all picked up by the other boats, some of them being quite exhausted, and one so far gone that it wag with considerable difficulty that he was restored. The boat also, with all its cargo, was saved. After this we were highly favored with respect to wind and current, and on Sunday, at two o'clock, p. m., we arrived in safety at Fort Vancouver. Mondq^, the 5th. Procured a passage in one of the company's barges to the Wallamette Falls ; and the fol- lowing day a ride on horseback of fifty miles brought me back to my own dwelling, having, since I left home, performed a journey of one thousand miles. ■'■*■.. ,- fV. ^.=^-: CHAPTER X. Bomeward bound — Departure from Oregon — Lost in a fug — Vancouver— Unex- pected meeting — Night running — Labor lost — Dreary encampment — Subbath — Pillar Rock — Fort George — Clatsop Plains — A whale — Eniertainincnt - Embarkation — Detention — Great cave — Weigh anchor— Remarkable e»cup« from shipwreck — Driven back - Second trial successful — Voyage — Man — Night danger — Arrival at Oahu — Shipping — English fleet — News from bomo — Rov. Jason Lee — "Iloa Tita" — Affecting separation — Admiral Thomas — Great alarm — Detention — How improved. . ,. . . .. , . * ', " ■ " ■ ' \, Late in the fall of 1843, information was received on the Wallamatte that the English barque Columbia waB about to sail from Vancouver to the oundwich Islands, and would take a certain number of passengers. Ac- cordingly, Rev. Jason Lee, John Ricord, Esq., of Now York, and myself and family, engaged passage ; Mr. Ricord at three dollars per day, and the rest of us at two and a half each, the half dollar being deducted in consequence of our being missionaries. Mr. I^e and myself designed, after arriving at the Sandwich Islands, to take the first opportunity to proceed to the United States, but Mr. Kicord designed to remain at the Islands. Having made the necessary arrangements, and put all our baggage into one of the company's batteaux to take to the vessel, we took a small boat in tow, in which we intended to proceed from Vancouver down the Columbia. At dark we took leave of our friends, who stood on the banks of the river to witness our departure. Theie being a good moon, we did not apprehend much difficulty in running in the night, as we were well acquainted with the river, and we were willing to venture a little to get our baggage on board, before the vessel dropped down the Columbia. Proceeding on till a late hour at night, 4* ■ HOMFWARD BOUND, 193 we lost ourselves in a dense fog, and supposing that by some unaccountable twist we had got turned al)out, and were going the wrong way, we resolved as soon as posisble to make the shore. Finding a place where wo could fasten our boats we retnained quiet until morning. At nine o'clock the fog had disappeared, and thereby disclosing the shores to our view, enabled us to ascertain our position. Moving forward, we labored hard with our oars during the day, and at tlark came along side of the vessel which lay in the Columbia a short distance above the mouth of the Wallarnette. Leaving all our baggage, except such as we should need on our trip down the Columbia, we passed on, and at nine in the evening arrived at Vancouver ; but as the gates of the fort were closed, we were obliged to encamp on the beach for the night. Having accomplished our business, on the 6th wc took our leave o( our hospitable friends at Vancouver, but the tide being against us, we made slow headway. At seven o'clock, p, m,, however, we came up with the ship, and being invited by Cap^iin Humphries, we spent a comfortable night on board. Next morning proceeded on in our small boat, and as there was no wind to favor the ship, we soon left her behind. At two o'clock, p. m., passed the mouth of the Multnomah, and landed a short time at the point where, in 1835, Capt. Wyelh attempted to establish a trading post, but failed, as every other such attempt has done, from coming in contact with, ana meeting the opposition of, the Hudson's Bay (Company. A little below this point we stopped to dine, on a fine gravelly beach, and while preparing our dinner, several canoes appeared below us, moving up the stream. Dis- covering our smoke, they made for the point, and on coming to the shore, we found, in one of the canoes, Mr. W. W. Raymonrl -liid his family, who were on their way from Clatsop, at the mouth of the river, up to the Wallamette. Mr. Raymond was employed as a iurmer at a mission station established on the Clatsop plains. With them we spent a pleasant hour, during which we regaled ourselves upon an unusual variety for such a -1 104 n051EWARD BOUND. p. 'I lirnc, our dinner consisting of beef, pork, potatoes, bread, butter, pie, cake, and raspberry preserves ; but we feasted with the expectation of suffering hunger before we arrived at Clatsop, if the winds and weather did not favor our progress. Taking leave of our friends, we departed from our delightful encampment, and with the tide in our favor, proceeded on our voyage. Nig!U came on, and a dense fog rendered -it difficult to run ; nevertheless we concluded there could be little danger of our going wrong so long as we felt the force of the tide bearing us downward ; but we soon found that we were missing our way, and running in behind an island, at the lower end of which a sand-bar had formed across the channel, on which the water was so shallow that we could not pass with our boat. Backing around, we rowed hard for an hour, when we found ourselves again at the head of the island, and by this time the darkness was somewhat dispelled by the rising moon, and we ventured to run on until midnight. Mooring our boat in a little bay among the rocks, wo clambered up on the side of a mountain, covered with a dense forest, where we spent the remainder of the night. Our place of encampment presented a striking contrast to the one we had just left, being among the rugged and precipitous cliffs which overhung the river on tne left- hand shore, and as everything around had been tho- roughly soaked with rain we found it exceedingly diffi- cult to li^ht a fire. But after burning my fingers to a blister, scorching my face, and singing ofi' my eye-brows, by Hashing powder, I at length accomplished niv object, and our dreary encampment assumed a more cneering aspect. On Saturday, the 8th, proceeded down as far as Oak Point, which is about thirty miles above Astoria, and encamped for the Sabbath under a precipice of rocks on the opposite side from the point. This precipice, which rises several hundred feet, is composed of different layers or strata of irregular, massive amigdaloid and basalt, and, contrasted with the low flat shore on the opposite side, presents a very imposing appearance. HOMEWARD BOUND. 195 Kcrc, amidst tlvj solitude of rocks, forest, and water, we experienced the truth tliat devotion is not contined lo the damask desks and cusliioned seats of refined civil- ization, but cheers with her presence the lonely and wandering exile. Monday, 0th. Ran down to Pillar Rock, fourteen miles above Astoria, where, being met by the flood-tide, we were obliged to camp. This rock is a great natural curiosity. It is a mighty column of basalt standing alone in the midst of the river, and though not more than fifteen or twenty feet in diameter at its base, it rises perpendicular on all sides to the height of more than one hundred feet. Remaining here over night, the next morning we crossed the river diagonally from Pillar Rock to Tongue Point, the distance of eleven miles, without serious accident, though the wind was high, and the boat took in considerable water. At twelve arrived at Astoria, where we met with a very cordia! reception from Mr. Birney and his family, whose hospitalities we shared until the following day. This gentleman is an officer in the Hudson's Bay Company, and one of its pioneers. In common with all the English and Scotch magnates of the forest, he possesses tne disposition to entertain strangers, both with the comforts his house affords, and by narrating his difterent campaigns, trials, BuflTerings, contests with the Indians, and hair-breadth escapes. This place is now called Fort George by the English, but doubtless will resume the name of Astoria when it is settled that the country belongs to the United States. In the afternoon of the 10th, Rev. J. L. Parrish, who is employed as a missionary among the Indians on the Clatsop Plains, came from Point Adams across the mouth of Young's Bay in a canoe, and met us at the fort, de- signing to proceed up the river to visit some Indian clans in the vicinity of the Katlamettc Islands ; but falling in with us, he resolved to return, and the next morning took us all ir. his large canoe safely to Point Adams, though the bay was quite rough from the eflfects of a strong east wind. From Point Adams south to a high mgBtm aaM 106 ROMRWARD BOUND. 1 i! promontory called Kilemook's Head, the distance ot twenty-five miles, is a broad sand beach, which at low- tide constitutes a splendid road. On our landing on the point, an Indian was dispatched with a note to inform Mrs. Parrish of our arrival, and to procure a home and cart to carry us and our baggage down the beach, the distaice of seven miles, to their residence. At sunset our transportation was accom- plished, and we found ourselves comfortably situated with our kind friejids, Mr. and Mrs. Parrish, on what is called the Clatsop Plains. It is only necessary for one to walk up from tide watci about one hundred feet to the top of the first ridge, to b'jcome convinced that these unduUating plains have been formed by the constant accumulation of sands, de posited by the ceaseless action ol the waves of the Pacific ocean. They are about twenty miles long, and from one to two and a half miles broad, and contain about forty square miles. There is a tract of timbered land lying between the prairie and Young's Bay, con- taining twice the amount of land vhere is in the plains. The timber is of a very good quality, and comprises fir, spruce, pine, cedar, hemlock, and alder. There is little doubt but that all this tract of land, which now lies oniy a few feet above the level of the ocean, was once entire ly submerged; that from Cape Disappointment to Kile- mook Head, the distance of thirty miles, and from the present mouth of the Columbia to Tongue Point, the distance of fifteen miles, it was once a large bay, and that the level tract of country back of Point Adams, comprising Clatsop Plains, and the tract of woodland above mentioned, have been formed by the sand and various vegetable substances that, from time immemorial, have washed down the Columbia River, and have been deposited here by the continued action of the tide. The evidences of this are, first, the fact that the soil is of the same alluvial character that is found on the shores of the river above; and, second, there are several ridges, or undulations, which extend the entire length of the plains, and curve precisely with the shore, and which all appeal fc-..« iUM mmgss HOMEWARD BOUND. 107 to have successively formed the boundary of the Pacific ocean. Some of these ridges appear in the woods, and large trees have grown on the top of them, which proves that this tract lias been forming tor hundreds of years. The soil, if we may judge from the immense growth of grass and weeds on the p'r'-ns, is of a superior quality. The location is delightful, i o scenery of ocean and mountain on a grand scale, and evidently this will be one of the most valuable pr tions of Oregon. At present, there are six American .:itizei\s se*»led on the plains, and as nnany more have taken cIpmiis. On Thursday, the 31st, ./c received a note from Cap- tain Humphries, informing ui that the ship had arrived at Fort George; and taking leave of our friends on the Clatsop Plains, we proceeded up the boach towards the njouth of the Columbia. On our way we fell in with a fin back whale that had been driven ashore by the fury of the south-west gal(»s. Though this is a common occurrence, more or less oeing driven up every year, yet it is considered by the settlers and Indians on the plains, as a very lucky event. It is a rule among both clnsses, that when a whale is driven ashore, each one is entitled to all he can get. When we discovered the object, Mr. Lee, Mr. Ricord and myself, were in advance of the rest of the party, and in our rear were a number of Indians, who were going up to row us across Young's Bay to Fort George, and Mr, Solomon Smith, an American who resides on the plains, and who had kindly taken Mrs. H. and the children into his cart to carry them up to point Adams. When Snith first discovered the object, he exclaimed, " Who knows but that Prov'dence has sent me up out of the ocean fifty dollars? Yonder is something that looks like a whale." We were ali s.^eedily up with the object, Smith and the Indians manifesting as much joy at their good luck as a man would feel who had unexpectedly received an immense fortune; and they all seemed instantly to forget that they were going to assist us up to fort George. Smith having no other instrument than a jack knife, and fearing that the Indians vyho were just behind, would ip*- ^w I . 198 BQIUEIWARP BQVNP. I lli': get more than he, left his horse and cart standing in the centre of the wide beach, sprang nimbly on to Jie car- case of the huge monster, and with his knife traced that portion of the animal to which he intended to lay claim. Jt was somewhat pleasing to observe that the Indians, in their selections, paid the utmost respect to the pre-emption right of Mr. Smith. Here was no jumping of claims, but as one after another arrived, all were satisfied to select from that part of the vast surface of the whale around which lines had not been run. We witnessed the dividing of the spoil a short time, and not being able to get either Smith or the Indians to proceed any farther till they had secured all the blubber, I took the cart in charge. At sundown we encamped on Point Adams, contenting ourselves with the idea that when the south- easter, which by this time began to rage, had abated, and the whale had all been removed from the beach by its dospoilers, we should be able to cross Young's Bay to fort George, where the barque Columbia lay at anchor. The storm continued until the 23d, when Mr. Parrish came up with a number of Indians and took us across the bay. We were entertained over the Sabbath in the house of Mr. Birney, where I preached the gospel to some twenty-five persons, embracing the crcw of the barque, the passengers, and the residents of P^ort George. On the 25th, we were required, by the Captain, to em- bark, but as the wind was contrary, we were obliged to renuiin until the 26th, when we weighed anchor and rani down to Baker's Bay. This bay is the common anchor- age for ships after coming into the river and before going out. On leaving Fort George we were in hopes immediate- ly tj3 pass over the bar of the Columbia, but or arriving at Baker's Bay the wind became adverse, and, with the prospect of a violent and tedious storm from the south and west, we came to anchor snug under Cape Disap- pointment, that we might be sheltered from the fury of winds and waves. Though at present it is a most dreary and barbarous looking region around Baker's Bay, yet, as Cape Disap HOMEWARD BOUND. l&O pointment must always be the guide of the mariner into the mouth of the river, and as the bay is the only safe anchorage, and vessels are always moie or less detained in passing in and out, this must eventually become a place of considerable maritime importance. This is the only entrepot of the country, and consequently all supplies must pass either way through this channel. This river is the thoroughfare on which must be conveyed everything that goes to and from the interior, and, judg- ing from the rapidity with which the country is filling up, the time is not far distant when steamboats will be flying up and down this river, as they are now seen on the Hudson and Mississippi. Three places offer facili- ties for the establishment of the grand depot for the country, which must be located somewhere near the mouth of the river. These are the shore of Baker's Bay, back of Cape Disappointment, the east side of Point Adams, and old Astoria. One of these places may doubtless be contemplated as the location of some future splendid commercial city, say the New York of the west. While in Baker's Bay we experienced a very disa- greeable detention of forty days, during which the storm from the south and west, continued to rage, with unceas- ing violence. Day after day Captain Humphries and myself would climb to the top of Cape Disappointment, and look off on the broad expanse of the Pacific, and contemplate the majesty of the ocean as she rolled her mountain billows, and dashed them successively against the base of the mighty rock on which we stood. The huge swell, rolling in from the south-west, would break with fearful grandeur the entire width of the channel across the bar of the Columbia, and the thick haze dark- ening the horizon corroborated the indications of the barometer, that the storm had not yet abated. Occasionally, however, we were able to extend our walks along the shore north of the Cape, and view what- cvor of interest presented itself Here is a cave extend- ing^ into ihe rock one hundred and fifty feet, and coutaiaing the bones of animals, trunks of trees, and M 200 HOMEWARD BOVSO. *i !) ( i- \\ other substances, which the tide has there deposited. The country around presents an aspect wild beyond description. On the morning of the 31 st of January, the wind blew fair from the nortli-west, and having l)een detained already bevond all endurance, the ('aptain resolved to make an enbrt to got to sea, though from the top of the Cape the mountain sv;ell could be seen breaking across the channel. Accordingly, we weighed anchor, and soon passed Cape disappointment, and steered for the chann<^l across the dreaded bar. The Captain took his position on the foretop, and had not proceeded more than one mile and a half before he w;;s convinced that he was premature in leaving the bay, as the bar was still too rough to attempt to cross. The anchor was immediately let go, and tno Captain determined to remain where he was for an hour, in hopes that the ebb tide would run down the high sea on the bar, so as to admit of our crossing in safety. Again the {inchor was raised, and the Captain resumed his position on the foretop, but as we approached what are called tlie north breakers, he came running down with great perturbation, and informed us that the huge sea was still breaking entirely across the channel, and that there was no prospect, if we at- tempted to cross, of saving either the vessel or our lives. To cast anchor where we were would be imminently dangerous, but there was no alternative, as it was impos- sible for us to get back into the bay. Accordingly, wo hauled to, and dropt our anchor within a few cable's length of the north sands. The wind was blownig a gale, and a tremendous swell came rolling over the sand bar, and threatened instantly to overwhelm us, while the vessel was tossed about with the greatest violence. As if to add terror to the gloomy prospect before us, night came on, and enveloped us in total darkness. Loud nowled the wind, and the mighty breakers, rolling in majestic grandeur over the sand bar at the north of the channel, angrily shook their white locks around us during the whole night. If the vessel had dragged her anchor, cr parted her cable, she must inevitably have been de HOMEWARD BOUND. 201 ted. ond lew ned to the 811 ojned, and all on board have perished, as no small boat could have lived in that sea for a single moment. In addition to the miseries of seasickness, during that dismal night, the horrors of shipwreck were vividly por- trayed before us as we thought of the ship Isabelle, which was cast away upon a sand-bar but a short dis- tance from our stern, of the William and Ann which was wrecked on the same bar in 1838, with twenty-six per- sons on board, not one of whom was left to describe the circumstances of the lamentable catastrophe; and of the United States' ship Peacock, which was lost on the north sand-bar, but a little distance from where we lay. But an ever watchful Providence interposed in our behalf; the wind lulled about daylight, and hauled around a few points; the sea became measurably pacified, and at sun- rise we stood back for Baker's Bay, where we again let go our anchor, to await a more propitious time to make our exit. We had not to wait long, for on the 3d day of Febru- ary, the mouth of the river being exceedingly smooth, and the wind from the north-east, Captain Humphries and myself went once more to the top of Cape Disap- pointment to take a view of the fearful bar, and pro- nouncing it passable, at one o'clock, we weighed ancnor, and spreading our sails to the breeze, passed beautifully and majestically over the spot where two days before our gallant barque would have been driven to the bottom by one break of the rolling surge. A voyage o^ twenty-four days, during which we experienced a succession of violent gales unusual on this part of the ocean, brought us in sight of the island of Mauie, which we first saw forty miles distant at two, p. M., of the 26th of February. At five we made the island of Oahu, and though during the day we had been sailing before a reefed topsail breeze, when we came up with the north end of the island, the wind suddenly fell, and we found ourselves plunging and rolling over an exceedingly heavy swell occasioned by a strong south wind, which for some time had prevailed in the vicinity of the islands. During the night we were drifted soma 9 ^T^Tr^^^Tv 202 HOMEWARD BOUND. I distance towards the island of Oahu and began to fear lest we might be driven ashore, and the absence of wind prove more destructive than the gales we had expe- rienced. In the morning, however, the regular trade set in, and as it was a fair wind, we were carried quickly past Diamond Hill, when the city of Honolulu presented itself to our view. A white flag was raised to the top of the mast to announce that no epidemic prevailed among us, and soon after, we were boarded by an old pilot, who, taking the ship in charge, conducted us along the narrow zig-zag channel leading through the Coral Reef which, with this exception, surrounds the island of Oahu, and bringing the vessel up within a few rods of land, gave o-ders to " let go the anchor." We found a variety of shipping in the harbor, Ameri- can, English, French, Spanish and some others. The Dublin line of battle ship lay in the roads the night previous to our arrival, but so violent was the motion of the vessel in consequence of the tremendous swell that rolled in from the south, that she parted both her cables, and it was with the utmost difficulty that she was prevented from driving on the coral reef. A timely breeze enabled her to ren^^ve from her dangerous prox- imity to land, and after laying off and on until the swell subsided, she finally came again to anchor in her former f)osition. The Dublin was the flag ship of a small Eng- ish fleet under the command of Rear Admiral Thomas, the hero of the Chinese war, who had been sent from China by the British government to settle the diflUculties occasioned by the outrageous conduct of Lord George Paulet in capturing the Sandwich Islands, and to restore them back to his Hawaiian majesty. Soon after we came to anchor. Dr. J. L. Babcock, of the Oregon mission, who had been on the island for some months with his family, for the benefit of their health, came on board, and invited us ashore. They were stop- ping at the house of John Colcord, where, for the time being, we also took up our abode. Immediately after landing, we learned from Dr. Bab- cock that news had arrived from the islands that Rev HOMEWARD BOUND. 203 George Gary had been appointed to supersede Rev, Jason Lee in the superintendency of the Oregon Mis- sion, and was expected at the islands on his way to Oregon, in a few weeks. This information caused us to hesitate whether to proceed, if we had an opportunity, or remain until Mr. Gary's arrival. Inquiring whether there would be any opportunity soon to take passage to the States, we ascertained that, in all probabihty, no vessel would leave the islands for that destination under several months ; but that a small schooner belonging to the Hawaiian Government, called the "Hoa Tita," would sail the next day for Mazatlan, on the coast of Mexico. Mr. Lee and myself proceeded directly to the consul to ascertain whether it would be possible to procure a passage to the coast, but found that one only could be accommodated on the small craft, and that it would not be practicable to take a family across the continent. Thus baffled in our purposes to proceed together to the United States, we held a council in which Dr. Babcock participated, and came to the con- clusion that, under the circumstances it was our duty to separate; Mr. Lee to take the "Hoa Tita" to Mazatlan, thence take the route through Mexico to Vera Cruz, and thence to New York, and myself and family to take the brig Chenamus, which would be ready to sail in a few weeks, and return to Oregon. With reference to Mr. Lee, no time was to be lost in preparing for his embarkation, but with the assistance of the acting consul, Wm. Hooper, Esq., and Mr. Ladd, everything was soon made ready. Now came one of the severe trials of missionary life. Mr. Lee had buried his second wife in Oregon, and was left with a tender infant, a little girl of three weeks old. Mrs. Hines received the child from the bed of death to take care of it so long as Mr. Lee should desire, and after the burial of its mother he also came to reside in our family. Mr. Lee looked upon this his only child, as his earthly all, and no personal consideration would have induced him to leave her in the care of others, on an island in the Pacific ocean, and perform a hazardous journey to the ■'t. -i*r wmmmm wmumf^ W^gHfl^^mmiin ii|i I |iii,ji,. "I ipw. 1^,,,. . 204 HOMEWARD BOUND. .1^ ^ lii V^ other side of the globe, with but little prospect of ever again beholding his beloved daughter. But with a neart as afiectionate as ever beat in the breast of a man, Mr. Lee never allowed his personal feelings to control his conduct, when they opposed themselves to the calls of duty. In his opinion it was the voice of duty that called him to tear himself away from all he held dear upon the earth and return to his native land. Accordingly, at three o'clock, p. m., of the 28th of February, after tenderly committing his mother- less child to the care of the writer and his companion, he was conducted to the " Hoa Tita," which lay at the wharf, and which, with a fair wind, was soon wafted from the shores of Oahu towards the Mexican coast. On the 2d day of March, Rear Admiral Thomas, having accomplished his mission to the Ilawaiians to the entire satisfaction of both natives and foreigners, took his leave of Oahu, and amidst the roar of cannon which saluted him froni the fort and from the ships of war in the harbor, he steered his course for the Society Islands. The following day his majesty Kamahamaha III, arrived at Honolulu from Maui, where he has resided for some time. Though it was the Sabbath, yet he was saluted with many guns as his crown flag was seen flying at the entrance of the harbor. He is now to take up his resi- dence in the city of Honolulu. In the evening of the 7th of March, the bells of the churches and of the ships in the harbor, rung an alarm, and the whole city seemed at once in an uproar. The cry of fire was heard in every direction, and as no fire could be seen from where we were, I concluded that it must be in some ship in the harbor. I accordingly ran down to the wharf, and found that the brig Chenamus was indeed ou fire in her hold, and no one could tell to what extent. A report was at once circulated that she had on board a vast quantity of powder, some said three hundred barrels. This alarmed many exceedingly, and but few would go down to the Vrharf for fear the vessel would blow up irpmediately. The utmost confusioa and HOMEWARD BOUND. 205 disorder prevailed until Captain Couch, who was absent from the ship when the fire was first discovered, arrived. He immediately corrected the mistake in reference to the amount of powder, and also informed the people concerning the probable position of the fire, which he supposed to be in the lower hold forward of the main- mast, and as the powder was in the after run, the danger was not so imminent as had been supposed. The fire, however, had so far progressed that it was considered exceedingly dangerous to take off the hatches for fear it would break forth, and destroy not only the ship itself, but also the other ships lying near. The hatches had become hot, and the quarter-deck, as far back as the companion-way, was too warm to stand upon, when the captain gave orders to scuttle her. Three holes were accordingly made in her hull, and when the captain left her deck there were already several feet of water in her hold. She continued filling and sinking until morning, when her upper deck was level with the water. Soon after daylight divers were procured to go down and stop up the scuttle holes, and cork up the cabin windows, to prepare for pumping her out. Thirty-six hours' labor of fifty men, sufficed to get the water all out, and as soon as possible the cargo was on the wharf, when it was ascertained that the ship had received but little or no damage from the fire, and but a small portion of the cargo had been injured except by the water. The fire had been principally confined to some fanning-mills, which were stored under the main hatchway. On the Monday following, the damaged goods were sold at auction for the benefit of the underwriters, and the captain went about repairing his vessel in order to proceed on his voyage to the Columbia River. The Chenamus is a fine brig, built expressly for the Pacific trade, and owned by Captain Cushing, the father of the Hon. Caleb Cushing, the pre- sent mmister from the United States to China. He has established a commercial house in Oregon, and carries on an extensive ti*ade with the settlers in that new and rsing country. m^jf^i^titlf^^^amm^^^^^^m^m^ ^^fjtm^ffm 205 HOMEWARD BOUND. In consequence of the unfortunate accident to the Chenamus, we were detained for five weeks, during which we had an opportunity of extending our observa- tions on the missions, government, commerce, &c.» oi the Sandwich Islands. CHAPTER XI. V ew of the Sannwlch Islands — How formed — Volcano — Coral ReeJs — Namaa of Inlands — When discovered — Singular tradition — Coolc's death — Population — PrcTious condition — Long and bloody war — Results — Missionary statistics — Eflecis of Missionary labor — Seaman's Chaplaincy — Romanism — Kamaham- ha III — Reformation — Singular custom — School for young chiefs — Influence of Missionaries — The King's Cabinet — Important history of two hundred and eeventy-six days — Increase of Cabinet — Paper King — Protection — Commerce — Whale Fishery — Productions — Society — Temperance — Destination of th« Islands. The Sandwich Islands, in common with a vast number of others in the Pacific Ocean, have doubtless been formed by volcanic action, in connexion with the operations of the coral worm. Doubts may reasonably be indulged in relation to the causes which have produced the present form of many other portions of the globe, but there can be none concerning the manner in which the Sandwich Islands first emerged from the bosom of the deep. That they have been thrown up by volcanic eruptions is evident, from the numerous old craters which appear on all parts of the islands; from the vast quantities of con- gealed lava everywhere observable; from the nature of the soil, it being nothing more nor less than decomposed lava, and from the present existence of an active vol- cano on the principal island of the group. This burning mountain, known by the name of the volcano of Kilawea, is situated on the island of Hawaii, or Owyhee, as it was formerly called; and from its continued action in casting up immense quantities of lava, stones, and dirt, which in some instances have been known to roll down the sides of the mountain in such vast quantities, as, in their pro- gress, to fill up the deep ravines washed in the sides of the mountain, and sometimes to bury up the cottages of the natives with their occupants, and extending quite to iilil - ii SANDWICH ISLANDS. the ocean, enlarging even the island itself, must be viewed as disclosing the principal cause of the formation of this interesting collection of the Pacific Isles. Though the crater of this mountain is the only flue now open through which the subteranean fires discharge them- selves, yet doubtless all the old craters have, in their turn, served the same purpose; and from their appear- ance one is led to suppose that many of them may have been in action at the same time. There are diflferent opinions entertained concerning the formation and continued enlargement of the coral reefs by which all the islands are surrounded. The prevailing opinion is that they owe their origin to the constant action of what is called " the coral worm." Though it appears evident that the above mentioned two causes have produced the Sandwich Islands, yet, after all, perhaps these are mere speculations, and they may have existed nearly in their present form since the period when the waters of the deluge were gathered to their original bed, and the ark rested on Mount Ararat. Be this as it may, there are ten of these isolated spots of earth embraced in the group known by the name of the Sandwich Islands. They are distinguished by the names of Hawaii, Maui, Oahu, Kawai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau and Kahoolame. The two I have not mentioned are of no note, being small and barren, and containing no permanent inhabitants. The existence of these islands first became known to the civilized world in 1778. Captain James Cook, the celebrated English navigator, is entitled to the credit, of the first discovery of this interesting group, to which he gave their present name, in honor of Lord Sandwich, his principal friend and patron in the British government. He was on one- of his voyages to the north-west coast of the American continent, for the purpose of searching for a north-west passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic when he fell in with these islands. On a subse- ocean. quent visit to them, it is generally known that he fell a victim to the barbarity of the savages, the existence of whom he had revealed to the world. When CapN\i SANDWICH ISLANDS. 200 be lOD gh t)en Cook first arrived at the islands, he was received by the natives with great veneration as a supreme being. This, in part, arose from the following singular tradition. The Hawaiians have, from time immemorial, entertained a belief in a deity, or goddess, which they called Pole. She, they believed, had the control of the volcano of Kilawea. Lono, one of the chiefs, was the friend of Pele, bui when once he happened to insult her, she was angry and began to pursue him. He fled in great terror, and pass- ing his home in his flight, he cried, " Aloha, Aloha," to his wife and children, but could not stop, for Pele was near in pursuit. Shortly he came to the shore where he found a man just landing in a fishiiig canoe, and, to escape the vengeance of Pele, he immediately siezed the canoe and pushed out to sea. When Captain Cook first arrived he forthwith received the name of Lono, the people supposing him to be the same personage who had left in a canoe, now returned in a much larger vessel. But the reverence which they manifested for Cook did not long continue. From an uprpstrained intercourse with them, they found him to be a man like themselves; and conceiving a strong dislike for him on account of some supposed injuries which he and his men had inflic- ted upon them, they resolved upon his distruction, and r.3cordingly he fell beneath the weight of a Hawaiian 'iub, near the village of Kadmaloa, on the shore of Kaalakekua Bay, and on the island of Hawaii. A stick of cocoa set up in the fissure of the rocks a few feet from the water's edge, marks the place where the gallant navigator met his untimely fate. The population of the Islands, when first discovered, as estimated by Captain Cook, was four hundred thousand. If this was a correct estimate, during the forty-five years following Cook's discovery, we find a decrease in the population of two hundred and fifty-seven thousand nine hundred and fifty; for in 1823 we find a population «t)f only one hundred and forty-two thousand and fifty. A census was taken in 1832, and it was found that the decrease for the nine previous years amounted to eleven 9* fp: IPP^PPPPPPPP^ W::% ju- It p if '' BIO fANDWICH ISLANr:^. thousand seven hundred and thirty-seven, leaving a pop- ulation at that time of one hundred and thirty thousand three hundred and thirteen. Another census was taken in 2836, which revealed the astonishing decrease of twenty-one thousand seven hundred and thirty in four years. One of the missionaries, the Rev. W. P. Alex ander, in 1838, calculated that there were annually, in all the islands, six thousand eight hundred and thirty- ei^^ht deaths, and only three thousand three hundred and thirty-five births. I have frequently conversed with missionaries who have been for many years upon the islands, and they all agree in stating that the yearlv deaths at the present time bear about the proportion to the yearly births of seven to three; and that only about one-half of the marriages lead to oflTspring. Allowing that there has been twenty thousand decrease from 1830 to 1846, and it will not fall short of this, there is now a population of eighty-eight thousand five hundred and seventy-nine. This brings us to the lameuiable result, that since the discovery of the island in 1778 there has been an average annual decrease of four thousand five hundred and eighty. The astonishing rapidity of the decrease of Hawaiian population, is, perhaps, without a parallel in the history of nations, not excepting the ill- fated Indians of North America. In beholding the downward career of the Hawaiians in respect to population, one is led to inquire for the causes which have produced these astonishinj^ results. These are numerous, and among the principal are the sweeping pestilence which raged with singular fatality during the years 1803 and 1804, the destructive wars of Kamehamena the first, and the almost universal preva- lence, and uncontrolled progress of a disease said to have been introduced by the vicious crew belonging to the vessel of Captain Cook, and as fatal in its ravages, as it is loathsome to contemplate. The laxity of native mor» als, which has always existed among the Hawaiians, is a sufficient cause why this disease should prevail among them to an unusual extent; and this very car.se adds to the effect of the disease in preventing offspring. Hitherto SANDWICH ISLANDS. 311 all the efforts of the missionaries and the medical men in tho islands to stop the ravages of the disease, have been ineflectual, and it is extremely doubtful whether any means can be devised sufficient to roll back the tide of death which threatens the destruction of the Hawaiian nation. Great cjianges had taken place in the political and religious history of the Hawaiian nation previous to the arrival of the first missionaries. Many of these resul- ted from the free intercourse cf the people of other nations with the islanders, so soor, as their existence be- came known to the civilized world. When they were first discovered, the islands were governed by a number of independent chiefs, and all the people were held under the iron control of a system of idolatry, called the Tabu sysiem. After a few years' iniercourse with foreigners, beholding their vast superiority over themselves, arising, as they supposed, from the difference of their religion, there arose a party among the natives who rejected their ancient Tabu, and embraced in theory so far as they understood it, the religion of the foreigners. At first this party was small, but continuing to increase, it at length embraced nearly one half of the nation. Kame- hameha was the first chief to declare himself openly against the Tabu system. At that time he was a petty chief, controlling but a small portion of the idand of Hawaii. But being more enlightened than his country- men, and withal ambitious and enterprising in his habits, he resolved to attempt the accomplishment of a revolu- tion in both the government and religion of his country. But the cruel system of idolatry against which l^me- hameha had arrayed himself, strengthened as it was by ages of uninterrupted growth, was not to be destroyed without a powerful struggle, its friends and supporters still being more numerous than its enemies. The most violent enmity had grown up betwixt the two parties, and at length Kamehameha found himself involved in the most bloody war. All the principal chiefs were upon the side of the Tabu, and it became necessary for Kame* FtT % "■■■ 213 SANDWICH ISLANDS. hameha to fight, them successively. He first turned his attention to the subjugation of his ovn native island of Hawaii, and meeting the chiefs with their forces in battle, his own superior skill and prowess prevailed, and he soon found the island of Hawaii, containing then more than one hundred thousand inhabitants, prostrate at his feet. Here establishing his authority by the wise use of every necessary precaution, he prepared for the invasion of the other islands. He met the adherents of the Tabu on the islands of Maui, Kauai, Lanai, and Morokai, in battle, and in every instance triumphed over them. Those of his enemies viho escaped took refuge on the island of Oahu. Here an army of men as large as that which Kamehameha had drawn to his standard, had col- lected, and resolved to make one more desperate stand, to support their favorite Tabu. At length the conquer- ing chief effected a landing on the island of Oahu, and the opposing forces met in the rear of the city of Hono- lulu, and fought the last and bloodiest battle of the whole war. The victory of Kamehameha was complete, his enemies were annihilated, and he was forthwith pro- claimed king of the Hawaiian nation. Providing for the government of Oahu, Kamehameha returned to Kailue on his native island, and in a pro- clamation to the nation announced that the old Tabu system was at an end. Thus fell idolatry on the Sand- vvich Islands, and thus all the group were connected together under one government. At the head stood the victorious chieftain who had effected the revolution, under the title of King Kamehameha the First. It was in this condition that the first missionaries found the islands on their arrival. Providence had prepared the way for them in the destruction of the bloody sys- tem of idolatry which had reigned over the islands for ages, and accordingly the first news that saluted them on approaching Hawaii, was, " Kamehameha is king, and the Tabu is destroyed." It was on the 4th day of April, 1820, that the brig Thaddeus, from Boston, with seven male and seven r II ^mm SANDWICH ISLANDS. 213 female n^.issionarics came to anchor in the bay of Kailua, and on the 8tli the king and chiefs consented to their landing and residing on the island. Three years afterwards a reinforcement arrived, consisting of seven males, and six females. A second reinforcement of six males and ten females, arrived in the spring of 1828 ; a third, of four males and four females, in the spring of 1831 ; a fourth, of ten males and nine females, in the spring of 1832 ; a fifth, of two males and two females, in the spring of 1833 ; a sixth, of three males and five females, in the spring of 1835 ; a seventh, fifteen males and seventeen females, in the spring of 1837 ; an eighth, of four males and four females, in the spring of 1841. In January, 1842, one mile and one female joined the mission at the islands from the Oregon Mission. A ninth reinforcement, of two males and two females, from the United States, arrived in September, 1842. This makes an aggregate of sixty-one males and sixty-seven females who have been employed on the mission since its first establish- ment twenty-six years ago. Of these a number have died, some have returned to the United States, some have become disconnected with the mission and remain at the islands, and others continue their labors as mis- sionaries in behalf of the Hawaiian race. "ihe greatest number of laborers in the field at one time, has not exceeded about eighty adults, or forty families, and this has been near the average number for the last ten years. Of course, to sustain so large an establishment, the expenditures must have been very great. These have been incurred in supporting the missionaries, and providing them with dwellings ; \n the printing and binding of Dooks for the seminary and other public schools ; in the erection Of churches and schoolhouses, and in the circulation of books. The entire amount expended, from the first establishment of the mission up to 1844, according to the report of the financial agent, amounted to six hundred and eight thou- sand, eight hundred and sixty-five dollars. Fifty thou- sand dollars of this was furnished by the American Bible Ill ii J r il i i\ Ii 1 i I 1 ■ i t J t Ul ^M \ m! i [ii • ----- 1 ■! rr- If EH Sandwich islanus. Society ; nineteen thousand seven hundred and seventy four dollars by the American Tract Society, ai;d five hundred and thirty-nine thousand and ninety dollars by the A. B. C. F. M. Eighteen mission stations have been established, and continue to be occupied ; six on Hawaii, four on Maui, four on Oahu, three on Kauai, and one on Morokai. In . addition to two printing oJfRces and a bindery, a commo- modious seminary, school-houses, and churches, forty permanent dwelling-houses have been erected for the accommodation of the missionaries, that in appearance would not disgrace any of the villages of Western New York. The results of all this immense labor and expense are sufficient to establish in every reflecting mind, the utility of christian missions. The great object held in view in the missionary enterprise, is the conversion of the hea- then to the Lord Jesus Christ and their final salvation in the kingdom of heaven. As it regards the first, by missionary effort, Christianity has been introduced into the Sandwich Islands, and adopted as the religious sys- tem of the nation. Twenty-three christian churches have been gathered, and embraced, on the first of April, 1843, twenty-three thousand eight hundred and four members in regular standing. In addition to this, the Hawaiian language has been systematized and reduced to writing ; fifty thousand copies of the New Testament and twenty thousand of the Old Testament have issued from the Hawaiian press ; seventy different works, scientifical, historical, and religious, have been translated and published ; one-half of the adult population have be'.n taught to read, and nearly all of the children of the islands, are now gathered into the schools. A mis- > sion seminary where the higher branches are taught, has been in operation for years, and usually numbers about one hundred and thirty students. A female semi- nary of a similar character numbers about eighty pujpils. These are on the island of Maui. A boording school for boys numbering sixty scholars, and one for girls of about twenty-five, are in operation on Hawaii. A SANDWICH ISLANDS. 215 :/oarding school for the young chiefs, and a number of select schools at the various stations throughout the islands, and under the care of gentlemen and ladies be- longing to the mission. Reading, writing, geography, arithmetic, astronomy, geometry, trigonometry, mensu- ration, surveying, navigation, algebra, history, phyloso- phy, &c., are taught in these schools, some of which are already beginning to rank with the academies of New England. These are some of the direct benefits resulting from missionary efforts, as they exhibit themselves on the Sandwich Islands ; and in viewing them we can form some conception of the value of those efforts which have accomplished this work, considered with respect to time. But who can estimate the value of a soul, the redemption of which cost the infinite price of a Re- deemer's blood] When I take a view of the small amount of money and labor expended, the little suffering endured, and the few lives sacrificed in the missionary cause, and connect them as instrumentalities with the eternal salvation of souls as the object, I am led to exclaim, my God ! how trifling are the means used in comparison to the great end accomplished ! And yet thousands from the Sandwich Islands will share in the blessedness of the first resurrection, because these in- strumentalities have been used in their behalf, and the Divine blessing has accompanied the efforts which have been made. In addition to the results of these efforts, as already stated, it may be proper to remark that the government has assumed a much more stable and consistent charac- ter than it formerly possessed. Written laws hare been enacted by which the people are better secured from oppressive exactions on the part of their rulers, and encouraged to cultivate industrious and virtuous habits. The security, stability, and value of property have been greatly enhanced. Diplomatic intercourse has been opened with other and greater nations, among which arc England, the United States, and France, all ot which have acknowledged the independence of the islands, and I?3I, ■B^PSHHHHBHB 218 0A^*o^VICH ISLANDS. II ji express an interest in their prosperity. Indeed, a great change for the better has taken place, and, though it is true that, still Hawaiian society is in a very crude state, and is susceptible of vast improvement, it is not the less true that the vi^onderful change through which it has passed since the cross was first planted upon the islands, is without parallel in the history of ancient or modern times. There are few subjects presenting themselves to the visitor at the islands, more interesting than the Seaman's Chaplaincy, at Honolulu. The fact that the American Seaman's Friend Society, in addition to many other [)laces in the world, have directed their pious benevo- ence to the greatest seaport of the Sandwich Islands, should be regarded as evidence of the importance of the place as well as of the discr'" jination of the mana- gers of that society. They have here erected a chapel on a most eligible site, which is conveniently fitted up to accommodate two or three hundred hearers. In the basement there is a depository for Bibles and Tracts, which may heie be found in English, German, French, Danish, and most other European languages, and are carefully and liberally distributed. The Bethel Flag floats from a staff elevated from the top of the steeple, inviting the mariner to the house of prayer. Public worship is performed every Sunday morning and even- ing ; there i*. a meeting every Thursday evening for prayer and religious conference, and a monthly seamen's concert for prayer ; both held in the vestry, and well attended. The chaplain also invites all seamen to his private residence, where he instructs, advises, reproves, and exhorts, as occasion may require, and distributes Bibles, Tracts, &c., to those who attend, with great assiduity, as they are received with many thanks by the sailors, and open sources of unspeakable consolation to many of them, while prosecuting their hazardous em- ployment. The society has been peculiarly fortunate in theif choice of chaplains for this important post. The present incumbent is the Rev. Samuel C. Damon vyho has Sandwich islands. an officiated since the death of his predecessor, the Rev. John Diell. Mr. Damon is well qualified for the place ne is called to fill, and his performances in the pulpit are alike creditable to himself as a clergyman and man of letters, and well adapted to the varied circumstances of his hearers. His audience is frequently composed of English lords and knights, consuls and consul generals, admirals and rear admirals, the king of the islands and his suite^ the ardent votaries of wealth in the character of merchants and sea captains, naval officers of diHbrent nations, common seamen and Kanakas. His subjects are well chosen to arrest the attention of all these, nor does he shun to declare unto them ail the counsel of God. In addition to his ordinary labors as chaplain, which alone are very arduous, he is the editor of a very inte- resting and useful paper called " The Friend of Tempe- rance and Seamen." About four hundred seamen annually visit him at his study, to receive religious instruction, and advice. From a consideration of these facts, I am led fully to the conclusion that the seaman's chaplaincy at Honolulu is every way worthy to be sustiiined. Since the French compelled the Hawaiians to receive with their brandy, Roman Catholic missionaries, Catholic- ism has been making rapid advances among the natives, and thereby presenting a great obstacle in the way of the final success of the Protestant missionaries. Ac- cording to the best information I could obtain, there were nine Catholic priests on the islands, and the bap- tized members of the church amounted in all to about twelve thousand five hundred, besides those who were under preparatory training. They have one hundred schools established, containing upwards of three thousand scholars. These are under the direction of priests, sisters of charity, and native teachers. The catholic cathedral is by far the most sightly looking church in Honolulu, and is under the charge of the Rev. the Abbe Maigret, of the Society of Picpus, in Paris. In connection with the cathedral there is a school of three hundred scholars, of both 218 SANDWICH ISLANDS. i saxes, under the superintendence of the Al be himself, "wliose services are without charge to those who belong to his communion. Some time in 1842 a vessel sailed from France, containing a bishop for the islands, seven priests, and twelve sisters of charity ; but she has nevei been heard of since she left the coast of Brazil, and is supposed to have been lost in the vicinity of Cape Horn. King Kamehameha III. and his small court have for several years resided chiefly at Lahaira, in the island of Maui, but in June, 1844, they removed their residences to the city of Honolulu, on the Island Oahu. At this place a palace has been recently erected in a conspicuous part of the city, and when the public grounds surround- ing it are properly improved and ornamented, will pre- sent an imposing appearance, and constitute a suitable residence for the royal family. Until recently, it has been extremely doubtful whethei the Hawaiian government would continue in existence for any length of time, but now his majesty Kameham- eha III, is recognized as belonging to the family of independent sovereigns, and efforts are being made by his ministers to place his court, and organize his tribunals' on a footing corresponding with his present situation As the ministers of the king are principally Americans, and of course unaccustomed to the forms of ceremony observed m royal palaces, it may be expected that the code of court etiquette which they have adopted, may be somewhat defective. If by some strange metamor- phosis, a republican is transformed into an aristocrat, he generally surrounds himself with an excess of cere- mony, and on this ground fault has been found with the code of etiquette which the ministers of Kamehameha III. have thrown around the court. Formerly the king was approachable on all occasions, and by every body ; now a routine of ceremony must be observed before even a sea captain can gain an audience. This is pecu- liarly trying to those English and American residents who have formerly had free access to the royal presence. Though this privilege is now denied the people generally SANDWICH ISLANDS. 219 yet, on proper application being previously made, the ref resentatives of foreign powers, are, at all times, admitted to a personal interview with the king, for the purpose of submitting to his majesty any case of well founded grievance which any of their countrymen may have against the authorities of the land. The character of the king since he came to the throne, has undergone a very great change. Formerly he was adicted to low and degrading vices, among which intem- perance was one of the most prominent, but some ten or twelve years ago, a thorough reformation took place in his majesty, and he is now not only a consistent temperance man, but also a member of the church of Christ. Though there are a few individuals at Honolulu who are disposed to censure, and find fault with everything and everybody in the islands, yet none seem incUned to complain of his majesty Kamehameha III. The general testimony is favorable to the goodness of his disposition, the upright- ness of his intentions, and his clemency and kindness to his subjects. None accuse him of cruelty or tyranny, and many, qualified to judge, concur in ascribing to him considerable native talent, and much acquired infornia- tion. His majesty is an example of sobriety to his sub- jects, regular in his attendance at church, and zealous in the discouragement of all Pagan rites, and the establish^ ment of the Christian religion in the nation. He is now thirty-three years of age, and was married in 1837 to Kalama, by whom he has no offspring. In the probable event of his having no lineal successor, the crown will devolve on Alexander Liholiho, whom the king has adopted for that purpose. He is an active and promising lad, now in the tv/efth year of his age. A veiy singular custom prevails in the Hawaiian monarch/ of appointing a female prime minister of the kingdom. It is said this custom originated in the will of Kamehameha I, which declared his son Liholiho his successor in the throne, but that Kaahumanu, his favorite ^ueen, should be his minister. The present premier is Kekauluohi, who is about fifty years of age, very digni- Sed in her appearance, and much respected by all classes. r, 1 ■ 1 ? i ■ i f r ;. ■ 1 1 j r : ■ r si ff li ft20 jIUPIDWIClI ISLANDS. Her prerogatives are nearly equal to those of the king, and whatever she docs in the realm, is to be considered as executed by his authority; but the king has a veto on her acts, while, on the other hand, his own are not bind in^ unless approved of by her. She has an interestine son, William Charles Lunalilo, about twelve years of age, but his sex disqualifies him from being her successor; consequently, Victoria Kamamalu, who is eight years of age, is the reputed heir to the premiership. Alexander and Victoria are both the children of Kekuanaoa, the present governor of Oahu, by Kaahu- mana the former premier of the kingdom. These chil- dren, with all the other young chiefs of the realm, are under the care of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, who are mem- bers of the mission, and who spare no pains to fit them, through a proper education and training, for the high functions which they are destined to fill. To the mis- sionaries belongs the merit of having excited the king and chiefs of the islands to desire a school for the sys- tematic*- education of those children into whose hands would fall the future destiny of the government. By the request and concurrence ol the king and chiefs, in 1839, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke were selected by the mission as suitable persons to undertake the education of the young chiefs. The building occupied by this school of the chiefs, is situated in a retired part of the city of Honolulu, and, though it cost but two thousand dollars, being constructed of sun-dried adobes, is commodiously arranged to secure the purposes of its construction, ft contains seventeen rooms in all, of various dimensions, opening into a court in the centre thirty-six feet square, the outside of the building being seventy-six feet square. The school room is very conveniently arranged, and books, maps, stationery, and globes terrestrial and celes- tial, are at all times accessible to the scholars, and there is also an excellent apparatus to illustrate the movements of the planets which compose our solar system. The scholars are fifteen in number, seven males and ei^ht females, and each of them has from two to six native attendants in the character of grooms, tailors, washers, fiANDWICH ISLANDS. 221 &c., according to the rank, age, and sex of each. These attendants are al) under the direction of John Li and his wife, who are both very respectable natives, and who co-operate with Mr. and Mrs. Cooke in excluding these attendants from any intimacy with the young chiefs which might prove prejudicial to their welfare. Reading, writing, spelling, arithmetic, geography, history, draw- ing, music, vocal and instrumental, are the principal branches of education which these future rulers of the islands are receiving at the hands of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke. These interesting youth, in every department of educa- tion, show a tractability quite equal to any other children of the same ages, and under similar circumstances; and it is quite evident that, under the excellent government and tuition of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, these young chiefs will be prepared to go forth into the world and fill their respective stations, with a fund of knowledge vastly superior to that of their predecessors; and it is equally obvious, that the administration of these future rulers, must be immeasurably more enlightened than any that has ever before existed in the islands. Yet the tongue of calumny has represented the appointment of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke to their responsible station, as a measure having no higher object, tb'^n the selfish policy of priest- craft. As might be expected, the missionaries, from the posi- tion they have occupied, have exerted a controlling influence in the councils of the Hawaiian government, for many years, but the first appointment from among them to any office in the government was that of the Rev. William Richards in 1838 to the office of teacher or counsellor of the chiefs. This appointment was made in aocordance with a request of the king and chiefs, and accepted by Mr. Richards at first, but for one year. Subsequently he received a higher appointment, and tilling the different offices of privy counsellor, secretary of state, and embassador to a foreign court, he has been one of the principal actors in the government since his first appointment. Another appointment to a responsible office in the 232 SANDWICH ISLANDS. i 1- government took place from among the missionaries in 1842, which became a matter of much serious contro- versy in the islands, and perhaps of some willful misre- presentation. This was that of Dr. Gerritt P. Judd. This gentleman was solicited by the king to accept of the office of interpreter, and giving up his connexion with the mission, he identified himself with the Hawaiian government. Some of the foreign residents, and partic- ularly the English, took occasion from this, to charge upon the missionaries a disposition to domineer over the king and people for the benefit of themselves and of the American residents. If it was necessary to appoint a foreigner to this office, doubtless Dr. Judd, from his thorough knowledge of the native language and charac- ter, was as well qualified as any man; and from his hav- ing voluntarily officiated, and possessing a high reputa- tion among the natives, it was natural that the choice of the king should fall on him. In his new functions, the Doctor appears to have given great satisfaction, at least to the kiiig, for during the troubles of the government with the English, he was appointed by the king to rep- resent his person, and after the restoration of the islands from British rule, he was elevated to the high and respon- sible office of secretary of state for foreign affairs. A third appointment from among the missionaries tooi place in 1845. This was that of the Rev. Mr. Andrew? to the office of supreme judge. As these three appoint ments were made from among themselves through the influence of the missionaries, it has been charged upon them by the enemies of the mission, that, forgetting their appropriate calling, they had used the extensive influ- ence they had acquired in the nation to arrogate to them- selves all the important offices of state, and the emolu- ments arising from such offices. But, as it is the business of the journalist to state facts, and neither to condemn nor attempt a justification of the important transactions narrated, it will not be expected that I shall appear on either side of the unhappy controversy which has proved the source of so much disquietude to the foreign residents on the Sandwich Islands. SANDWICH ISLANDS. '2*23 toot In accepting the reins of government, when proffered to them, doubtless the missionaries acted under the influ- ence of a justifiable fear for the safety of the Protestant faith, which they had been instrumental in estabhshing in the islands; and it was natural for them to prefer a Christian Protestant to either an immoral or a Catholic domination. The history of the Sandwich Island government during the short space of two hundred and seventy-six days, in 1843, presents three of the most remarkable and impor- tant events that ever transpired in a nation, in the same length of time. The first was the cession of the islands, by his majesty Kamahamaha and the Premier, on the 25th day of Feb- ruary, 1843, to the Right Hon. Lord George Paulet, on the part of her Britanic Majesty, Victoria, Queen of Great Britain and Ireland; the i:;econd was the restor- ation of the islands to their native sovereign, on the 31st of July, 1843, by Rear Admiral Thomas; and the third was the united declaration of Great Britain and France, dated on the 28th Nov., 1843, acknowledging the islands as an independent State, and mutually engaging never to take possession, neither directly nor under the title of protectorate, or under any other form, of any part of the territory of which they are composed. Kamehameha III. was driven to cede his sovereignty to Great Britain provisionally, in consequence of charges being preferred against him by British subjects which he was utterly unable to meet, and which in fact were founded in great injustice. Under the influence of wise counsel the king preferred to lay aside his crown rather than act a dis- graceful part by complying with the exorbitant demands of the British Lord, and await for the final decision of Great Britain to announce that the Hawaiian government had passed away, or that the crown was still on the brow of Kamehameha III. While the question of the life or death of the Hawaiian government was pending, the British ensign was waving over the islands, and the reins of government were siezed by Lord George Paulel in the name of her majesty, Quepn Victoria. His Lord 234 SANDWICH I8LAN0f. ship had the nonor of standing at the head of the goverr n»ent of the islands during one hundred and tifty-six days; but on the arrival of Rear Admiral Thomas, in the Collingwood line of battle ships, and the investigation of the grounds of the difficulty by the Admiral, the course pursued by Lord George was unceremoniously condemned, and the decision of ihe British government was anticipated by Rear Admiral Thomas. The king was restored to his just rights on the 31 st of July, in a way calculated to preserve the respect due to royalty anci restore confidence and good feeling among all the foreign residents. On the issuing of his proclamation, declaring that Kamehameha III. still reigned, Rear Ad- miral Thomas was hailed as the deliverer of the nation, and the people were as loud in his praises as they were vociferous in their reproaches of Lord Gieorge; and the 31st of July was registered as a day to be observed as a national festival, to commemorate the restoration of Kamehameha to the throne of the Sandwich Islands, from which he had been unjustly driven. Since the settlement of these troubles and the acknow- ledgement of the independence of the islands by three great nations under an unusual engagement, the king appears to subnut ihe government principally into the hands of his forei/jn ministers. The cabinet, with the except! .'n of 'iuc premier, is composed of foreigners, three of whom were formerly members of the American mission, and two arrived at the islands as mere private gentlemen. One of them, John Ricord, Esq., was a young adventurer from New York, who crossed tne continent by the way of St. Louis and the Rocky Moun- tains, and came down to Oregon in the fall of 1843, professing that his sole errand to the Pacific was to seek a fortune. Not finding it readily along the coast of the Pacific, he resolved to commit himself to its winds and waves. Confined in Baker's Bay by a succession of storms which lasted forty days and forty nights, he at length began to suspect that " Old Neptune " was suspi- cious that his motives for invading his dominions, were not of the purest kind; but finally his doubts of the M ' SANDWICH ISLANDS. 2i2S 4 ' ■t;-^ tavor.of Neptune subsided, as the angry elements were hushed to silence, and the gentle breeze wafted him tiirough the gateway across the bar of the Columbia Twenty-four days brought him along side of Oahu, the sight of which he hailed with transport, as he felt that confidence which is the harbinger of success. Remain ing in a voluntary quarantine for a day or two, in conse- quence of the dilapidated state of his wardrobe, which he found it necessary to repair before appearing in pub- lic, he at length received an introduction to some of the members of the cabinet as a qualified member of the bar, from the Empire State. Possessing the advantages arising from a gentlemanly appearance, ready wit, and considerable suavity of manners, he succeeded immedi- ately in ingratiating himself into the good will of the members of the government, and on the ninth day after his arrival he took the oath of allegiance to Kamehameha III, and received the insignia of his appointment to the honorable and responsible office of Attorney General ot the Sandwich Islands, with a salary of two thousand dollars per annum. The other was a Scotchman by the name of Robert Crichton Wyllie, who came to the islands in the company of General Miller, her Britanic Majesty's Consul General for the islands of the Pacific. Probably Mr. Wyllie owes his promotion to his present distinguished office to the interesting "Notes" on the population, religion, agriculture and commerce of the islands, which he pub- lished soon after his arrival. In these notes the mission- aries are very highly commended, and some very wise suggestions are made concerning the future policy of the Sandwich Islands' government. The cabinet of Kamehameha III. at present stnnds as follows: Dr. G. P. Judd, Minister for the Interior, Rev. Mr. Richards, Privy Counsellor, Rev. Mr. Andrews, Supreme Judge, Hon. John Ricord, Attorney General, and Robert Crichton Wyllie, Secretary of State for Foreign Affiiirs. These five functionaries constitute the government of the Sandwich Islands, for every thing goes according to their direction In all the great trans- 10 226 SANDWICH ISLANDS. actions of the nation in its intercourse with other nations, and also in most of its internal affairs, the king in reality has no more power than one of his inferior chiefs. He says himself, that he is a mere " paper king," that his foreign ministers do the business, and bring him the papers to sign, and all he has to do is to obey them. In consequence of this apparent assumption of power on the part of the foreigners connected with the government, it has been charged upon them by some, that they are actuated by motives of selfish ambition; that they art- fully dupe the king and his native suite, by filling them with a sense of their own importance, when in reality they are mere cyphers, and in this v/ay succeed in pro- moting their own aggrandizement. But the truih is that, with all the improvement the islanders nave made, they still remain grossly ignorant, especially on the great principles of government; and, so extensive is their inter- course with other nations, and so complicated the business to be transacted, that the king finds it indispensibly ne- cessary to put the helm of government into the hands of enlightened foreigners; and thus far he has been pecu- liarly fortunate in the selections he has madv% judging from the course which has been pursued. For while his ministers have been careful to guard their own reputa- tion, they have acted as though they believed, thai their success in this depended on their faithfulness in guarding the honor and interests of the king. As a matter of course, since the recognition of the Sandwich Islands as belonging to the great family of kingdoms, the ministers, and all the public functionaries are putting on much of the dignity and importance of royalty, but on some of them who have been altogether unaccustomed to such high honors as result from their offices, the garments of court etiquette hang but loosely; nevertheless they may be considered as skillful politicians if they steer the government ship so as to escape the Sylla on the one hand, and Charybdis on the other, to which she is continually exposed. Now that the three greatest naval powers on earth have entered into a mutual understanding never to take possession of the iM ^•/t^-^* SANDWICH lahAisoa, 227 islands under any pretence whatever, the safety and perpetuity of the government depend upon the course which shall be pursued with other nations. So long as no just grounds of hostility are afforded, the engagement betwixt the three great powers would lead them to remonstrate eflectively against any aggression which might endanger the existence of the government. If the astonishing mortality which has prevailed so long among the natives, can by any means be checked, and the fountains of life be purified, so that children shall again be multiplied in the islands, and the decrease of numbers be effectually staid, then may we expect to sec, in the future history of the Sandwich Islands, a satisfac- tory proof of the ability of the copper-colored race to govern themselves, and to become truly civilized. But if the tide of death shall continue to sweep on for fifty years to come, the Hawaiian nation will be numbered among the things that have been. In connection with this view of the government, it may be proper to consider their means of protection. Commanding the anchorage is a fort mounting seventy guns, varying in calibre from the long brass thirty-two pounder down to the four pounder. The fort is • early a quadrangle, with the guns pointing on all sides, and con£dquently few in proportion, pointing to seaward. A small naval force would be sufficient to silence the guns of the fort, in a short period. As the fort affords no adequate means of protection from an attack by sea, the money laid out for its erection and the purchase of the guns mounted upon it, one of which cost the Hawai- ians the sum of ten thousand dollars, was very foolishly expended. So far as their being able to defend them- selves by this fort is concerned, they may as well melt down their big guns and cast them into poi-pots as to 'continue the fort as it now is. It will probably soon be demolished, and another one will be erected on the reef, seaward of the present one, v/hich, under the direction of a skillful engineer, will serve a much better purpose. There is a remarkable hill in the rear of Honolulu which overlooks the city and harbor, called by the Kmim iflMiiPiMiwiifa I iiiipiiriB w* wi'j;^ar, molasses, Kukui oil, bullock-hides, goat :nns, ?.■ r^w-root, and mustard-seed, the amount of unety-ont; liiousand two hundred and forty 'five dollars. ■ - , •'«:.* mmfi SANDWICH ISLANDS. 2-29 The net revenue of the kingdom in the same year, embracing duties, harbor dues, &-c., amounted to fifty thousand dollars. But, as the islands depend mainly upon the whale ships that annually flock to their ports, lor their prosperity, it io obvious that, were the whale fishery to fall off, or were the vessels engaged in it to abandon the islands for some port on the main land, the Sandwich Islands would relapse into tlieir primitive insignificance. The diversion of whalers to some other port has been a subject of alarm to the Hawaiian government, espe- cially since it has been obvious that Upper California, with its splendid bay of San Francisco, would soon be- come the property of the United States. So long as this noblest harbor of the Pacific coast is blockaded against whalers by the enormous port charges enforced by the mistaken policy of Mexico, the Sandwich Islands have nothing to fear ; but, when Mexico shall relinquish her hold on California, and a large commercial city shall adorn the shore of San Francisco, whose quiet harbor, free of charges, shall invite the weather beaten whale- man, then a fatal check will be given to the prosperity of the islands, and much of their present importance will disappear. The great value of this fishery to those places where the ships are under the necessity of putting in to procure supplies, will appear if we consider its amazing extent Take for instance one single year. Of six hundred American whalers that were m active operation on the different oceans, three hundred and sixty-seven visited the two ports of the Sandwich Islands, Lahaira and Honolulu in 1843, some of them twice in the same year. Surely no nation ever sent out such an immense fleet of whalers as now sail from the ports of the United States. Bold and adventurous, the Americans carry this enter- prise into every portion of the world frequented by the object of their perilous search. There is no sea that ia not whitened with their canvass, and no climate thai does not witness their toils. While we look for them among ti»c icebergs of the arctic regions, tliey are seen ■NMMiMMii 230 SANDWICH ISLANDS. crossing the antarctic circle, and hovering around the • south pole. They explore the vast extent of the At- lantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, while the Carzette Islands, New Holland, and New Zealand are witness to their hardy and persevering industry. And as the im- mens' ^^('t of whalemen sailing from the United States arouna Horn have been dependent upon the Sand- wich Isla for their supplies, so they have given to the islands much of the importance which they now possess ; and if the inhabitants of the islands wish to preserve the valuable trade arising from this fishery, they will find it necessary to remove all the disadvantages of port charges under which whalemen now labor, in visiting their harbors. Few portions of the world afford a greater variety of productions than the Sandwich Islands. As the temper- ature in the different parts varies from forty to ninety degrees in the shade, so nearly all the productions of the temperate and torrid zones, here come to maturity. In the Hawaiian markets of their own production, may be found arrow-root, sugar-cane, Kukui oil, castor oil, mustard seed, coffee, indigo, cotton, cabbages, pine- apples, pumpkins, melons, oranges, bananas, figs, grapes, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, onions, taro, Indian corn, wheat, rice, tobacco, beef, pork, goats, turkeys, fowls, cocoanuts, mangoes, and bread-fruit. Though the pro- ductions are thus various, the stalT of life amongst the natives is the taro-root. This root is cultivated on patches of ground wholly covered with water, so that the plant is wholly immersed, excepting the large green leaves. It grows to the size of a large potato ; is boiled by the natives; prepared in the form of paste, and eaten either alone or with dried fish. It is considered a wholesome food, and exceedingly nutritious. When thus prepared it is called poi, and being almost indispen- sable to the subsistence of the natives, it forms one of the principal articles of traffic among them. Society in Honolulu becomes a subject of interest to all, whether transient visitors, or residents. Thjugh there are some jealousies existing betwixt the* subjects ^■■■«<">„.i<^mmm^mmmimfliw!' '!# ;» CHAPTER XII. Return to Ovegon — Embarkation — Passengers — Horace Holdcn — Tlirllling story — The whaleman — Voyage — Arrival in the Columbia River — Di.°agreeable navi- gation — Yearly meeting of the Missionaries — Appointments — Arrival of Rev. George Gang — Reasons for his appointment — Great changes — Mr. Lea — • George Abernethy — Powers of the new Superintendent — Special meeting — Voyaje — Laymen dismissed — Miscellaneous — Transporting supplier — Another meeting — Oregon Institute — Financns of the Mission brought to a close — Nuf»»- bcr of Missionaries returned — Number remaining in the field. On the morning of the 3rd day of April, it was announced by Captain Coucii that the Chenamus was again ready for sea, and that the passengers were expec- ted to be on board at nine o'clock. According to the arrangement before Mr. Lee's departure, we had secured our passage, and were ready to obey the summons to embark, and the following evening we had lost sight of the beautiful "Isles of the South," and %vere dancing northward over the waves of the great Pacific. Among )ur fellow passengers were Dr. J. L. Babcock and family, who were returning to Oregon, to resume their places In the mission, and Mr. Horace Holden and family, who had resided some time on the island of Kauai, where tliey had been employed in the manufacture of sugar. He had formerly been employed in the whaling business, and on one of his voyages his vessel was wrecked, and he was cast away, with a few of his companions, on one of the Pelew Islands. Nearly all his fellow sufferers were jruelly mur- dered by the savages before his eyes, and he saved him- self from the name fate only by submitting without resistance, to all the indignities and cruelties that savage ingenuity could invent to torment a man without killing him. Thev stripped him of his clothing, and then, with 10* J mmmmm 2S4 RETURN TO ORUOOX. ' !■ 11 1 a kind of pinchers, pulled every hair from his body; they bound him down to the ground, and then in a most crue' manner, tattooed upon his breast and arms, the most hideous and indehbic figures, and then pronounced him worthy to live and be their slave. Remaining with them for more than a year, at length, to his inexpressible joy, a vessel visited the island, and he was released from his intolerable wretchedness. Returning to Boston, he published a brief narrative of his shipwreck and captiv- ity, and soon after married, and with his wife sailed for the Sandwich Islands. With an interesting family he now goes to Oregon with the intention of spending the remainder of his life. The third day from Oahu we were boarded by Captain Sawyer, a whaleman, whose vessel had sprung a leak so that it required the constant exertions of his men at pumping, to keep her afloat. The Captain told us that if the leak increased it was doubtful whether he suc- ceeded in getting her into port, but said he should do his utmost to accomplish it. He said he had pumped out of her "all of the Pacific Ocean," and when he left he requested us to report him the first opportunity, that if he failed in getting her in, it would be known what had become of him. After this nothing especial transpired on our voyage demanding notice; the wind and weather werefavorabl;? so that we made fine progress every day, and on the twentieth, after leaving port, we made the high lands north of the mouth of the Columbia River. Crossing the bar in safety, in a few hours we came to anchor in the river off Fort George, where we found it exceedingly pleasant again to set our feet on ten'a jirma. Weighing anchor the following day, we ascended the Columbia, but owing to the intricacy of the navigation, we did not gain the mouth of the Wallamette River, until three days after. So slow was our progress in the brig that Dr. Babcock, Mr. Holden and myself, requested and obtained the use of the barge, to ascend the river to the Wallamette Falls. Taking our families with us, we labored with the oar until towards evening, when we iliMlii RETURN TO OREGON. 235 arrived at the foot of the strong rapids, one mile below the falls. Unable to ascend the rapids with the use of our oars, we were obliged to get into the river where the water was up to our waists, and almost as cold as ice, and draw up the boat by main strength. In doing this we were obliged to remain in the water for more than an hour, and, until we became so benumbed thai we could scarcely stand upon our feet. However, we eained the head of the rapids in safety, and in a half an hour after, were comfortably seated by the fireside of our good friends, Mr. and Mrs. George Abernethy, of the Oregon mission. The mission had been left by Mr. Lee, under the superintendency of Rev. David Leslie; and as the yearly meeting of the missionaries took place soon after our arrival, it was arranged for me to supply Oregon City and Tuality Plains with preaching, while Mr. Leslie supplied the Wallamette settlement, and Mr. Waller was to preach to the Indians along the Wallamette River, Mr. Parrish to supply the station on Clatsop Plains, and Mr. Perkins still to remain at the Dalls. Four missionaries had returned to the United States, the station at Puget's Sound had been abandoned, and the four appointments mentioned above connected with the mission school and the various secular departments, constituted the Oregon mission, when the Rev. George Gary, the newly appointed superintendent, arrived at Wallamette Falls on the 1st day of June, 1844. Mr. Gary had been appointed to supercede Mr. Lee in the superintendency of the mission in consequence of the dissatisfaction of the Board in New York with the latter, arising from the supposition founded in the statements of missionaries, oral and written, that they " had been misled as to the necessity of so great a number of mis- sionaries in Oregon," and from the to them, " unaccount- able fact that they had not been able to obtain any satisfactory report of the manner in which the large appropriations to the late reinforcement had been dis- bursed." These objections, however valid in the esti- mation of the Board, should not be considered as any M w i^;;ssaii mm ■I i> .\ 230 ;.:t"r«:;,.lv^,Y. RETURN TO OREOOX. disparagement to the character of Mr. Lee. Changes inconceivably great with respect to the Indians of Ore- 'wn took place betwixt the time the great reinforcement was called for, and the time of their arrival in the Columbia River. The natives were wasting away during the time, like the dews of the morning, so that Mr. Lee himself, on his return to Oregon with the rein' forcement, was not among the least disappointed. Other persons have fallen into the samo mistake with respect to the Indians. The Rev. Mr. Parker, in his exploring tour, which took place only the year previous to Mr. Lee's first return, according to his representa- tions, found the Indians very numerous, and everywhere desiring missionaries to come among them. For in- stance, the Callapooah tribe in the valley of the Walla- mette, where Mr. Lee established his mission, Mr. Parker represents as numbering, in 1836, over eight thousand souls; and in 1840, six hundred were all that could be found in that valley. Similar changes had taken place in other tribec, changes that no human wis- dom could possibly have foreseen. Besides this, at the time the call was made for the great reinforcement, there were but very few whites in Oregon, and the missionaries had been obliged to devote much of their time to manual labor for the purpose of procuring a subsistence, and as no one could have imagined that the country would have been so soon supplied with an indus- trious population of Americans, it was judged essential and important by Mr. Lee and his coadjutors in the work, that the mission should be supplied with a variety of secular men, embr.acing farmers, mechanics, account- ants, &c., whose labors would relieve the missionaries from temporal pursuits, and enable them to devote their time to the spiritual interests of the people. It is by no means certain that the Missionary Board, with all its foresight, placed in the same position that Mr. Lee and his brethren occupied in Oregon at that time, would not have come to the same conclusion. With regard to the objection against Mr. Lee, arising from his not furnishing the Board with the desirable RETURN TO OREGON. 237 report concerning the disbursements of the large appro priatioJi, it should be observed that no such charge of delinquoncy appears against him up to the time of t-ho appointment of the great reinforcement. Every thing with respect to the use of money appears to have been done to the entire satisfaction of the Board, and resolu- tions were passed, and articles published in the Christian Advocate and Journal, and other papers, commendatory of the character and course pursued by our "excellent superintendent;" but when the business of the mission became more complicated, in consequence of the ap- pointment of a large number of men of a variety of j)ursuits, it was found necessary to appoint a financial agent, or mission steward, whose business it should be to keep an exact account of the manner in which the funds of the mission were expended, and to prepare the annual reports of the disbursements. Mr. George Aber- nethy, of New York, than whom but few men could be found better qualified to bear its responsibilities, was appointed to this important post. I am aware that Mr. Lee, as the superintendent of the mission, was the re- sponsible man, but after the accounts of the mission were committed to the keeping of Mr. Abernethy, it was impossible for Mr. Lee, or any other man, to make out the reports, except Mr. Abernethy himself. To him every thing was clear, and the manner in which every dollar of the mission's money was e-^^ended could be accounted for, by a reference to be ^ oil kept books. If the Board was disappointed in not receiving a satis- factory report, it is doubtless chargeable upon the unset- tled state of the mission for the first two years after the arrival of the large reinforcement, and the multiplicity of business upon the hands of the superintendent, and the missionary steward. Be this as it may, the Mission- ary Board, at a regular meeting hold July 19th, 1843, recommended to the bishop havmg charge of foreign missions, either the appointment of a special agent to proceed to Oregon and investigate the financial concerns of the mission, or supercede Mr. Lee by a new superin- tendent. The latter course was decided upon by the t 238 RETURN TO OREGON. .i\> Ilii I bishop, and in the September following it was announced that the Rev. George Gary of the Black River Confer- ence was appointed to the superintendency of the Oregon mission. The instructions to the new superintendent were few, but he was clothed with discretionary power, and had the destiny of missionaries, laymen, property and all, put into his hands. With this unlimited authority Mr. Gary on arriving in Oregon, entered at once upon the delicate and responsible duties which devolved upon him. On the 5th of June, Mr. Gary, myself, and our fami- lies left the falls and proceeded up the Wallr "ilte River in a canoe, for the purpose of attending a r ng of the missionaries, called by the superintendent ^. tue house of Rev. David Leslie, in the upper settlement. The distance to travel was about fifty miles, twenty by water, and thirty by land. We had made arrangements for persons to meet us at the Butte with means of land traveling, and expected to get through in a day, and therefore had not prepared for camping out; but opposed by the strength of the current, and our horses failing to arrive in time, we preferred to make ourselves as com- fortable as possible under the wide spread branches of a majestic fir, to traveling during the night. This was Mr. and Mrs. Gary's first encampment in Oregon. Though we had no bedding to keep our bodies warm dur- ing the night, yet, fortunately for our hungry stomachs, we had left of what we had provided lor the day a a quarter of a large fresh salmon. This I filled with splinters to prevent its falling to pieces while cooking, and then fastening in the forks of a stick, roasted it before the fire. This, with tea and bread, constituted our supper. As the night was not cold we enjoyed a comfortable rest, though our bed was mother earth, and our covering the canopy of heaven. On the 6th, arrived at the house of Mr. I aslie, and the following day the missionaries wore ail collected, with the exception of Mr. Perkins and Mr. Brewer, at the Dalls. The meeting was called for the purpose of iSi RETURN TO ORCUON. 239 consultation concerning the various departments of the mission, and though commenced at an early hour of the day, such was the interest involved that the investiga- tion continued until daylight the next morning. Some important .changes in the mission were agitated, and it was decided to sell the mission property at Clatsop, near the mouth of the Columbia River, consisting of a farm, buildings, and stock. Mr. Gary informed the laymen connected with the mission, that he intended to dismiss them, and proposed to defray their expenses home, if they wished to return, or pay them an equivalent in such property as the n sion possessed, in Oregon. With the exception of one, they preferred to remain in the country, and accordingly mission property was dis- bursed among the difterent families to the amount of from eight hundred to a thousand dollars each. The course adopted by Mr. Gary in disposing of the laymen belonging to the mission, was as satisfactory to the latter, as it was just and honorable in the superintendent. All the secular members of the mission were thus hon- orably discharged, except Mr. Brewer, the farmer at the Dalls. It was thought the interests of that station required his continuance. The appointments of the missionaries which took place at the yearly meeting before Mr. Gary's arrival, were confirmed. On Sunday, 9tli, preached at the mission school-house to upwards of thirty persons, a good congregation for Oregon ; also at the house near the saw-mill. These houses have been erected since the arrival of the large reinforcement. They occupy a beautiful location, and the school-house is by far the most sightly building in Oregon. It is seventy-five by forty-eight feet on the ground, three stories high, and cost eight thousand dollars. On Wednesday, the 12th, left the mission school to return to the falls, leaving my family behind for the time being, intending to return and get them after a few days. As it had been settled that I should remain at the falls for at least one year, I purclmsed a couple of cows with their calves for the purpose of furnishing my family B 240 RETURN TO OREGON. ■with the luxury of milk and butter. The distance from the mission school to the falls by land, is fifty miles, and about one-third of the way is forest. Towards evening of the first day, while urmng my animals along the nar- row zig-zag Indian trail leading through the dark forest which skirts the Molala River, the piteous and well known cry of a panther but a few rods from the path, brought man and beast at once to a stand. Remaining for a moment, and discovering that the beast of prey was disposed to let us pass, I pushed on as fast as possible, desiring to get as far as I could from the haunts of my troublesome neighbor, before dark, for fear my animals might be attacked during the night. Arriving at nine o'clock on a little prairie between the Molala and Har- chauke Rivers, I tied my calves to a small oak tree with a lasso, built a fire in a small hut which one of the set- tlers had built some time before, and abandoned, and rolling m.yself in my blanket, lay down to sleep. In the mornmg I found all safe, the panther had kopt his dis- tance. Loosing my animals I proceeded on, and at night arrived in safety at the falls. Friday, 14ih. Returned to the upper settlement, and preached the following Sabbath again at the mission school. Wednesday, 19th. Having procured a quantity of supplies, consisting of wheat, beef, potatoes, &c., I hirea it conveyed to the Bute, and thence took it in a canoe down to the falls. This is the manner of transporting provisions in the country — a very laborious and danger ous method. Spent a few days in forwarding my house, which I had purchased in Oregon City soon after we returned from the islands, being quite solioitous to occupy it as soon as possible. Mr. Gary and his wife have decided to reside with us in preference to keeping house. They are still in the upper settlement, where Mr. Gary is arranging business with the lay members preparatory to their dismission. Sabbath, 23d. Preached to a congregation of about forty persons in the Methodist Church at the falls, and r mmmBm RETURN TO OREGON. 241 I led as ied fey is to proved the truth of the Saviour's promise, *• l.o, I am with you." Tuesday, 25th. Returned to the settlement above, to attend a meeting of the Methodist Society at the mission school, the following day. The meeting was called by Mr. Gary, and related to the Oregon Institute. Ever since soon after the arrival of the large rein- forcement in 1840, the people of Oregon had been endeavoring to establish a literar)^ i i.'ii'ution bearing the name of the *' Oregon Institute." They had so fai succeeded as to secure a very eligible location about three miles from the Oregon Mission school, and build a house which was nearly completed, at an expense of about three thousand dollars. It was now proposed by Mr. Gary to sell the Oregon Mission school house and premises, and disband the school ; and though he had an opportunity to sell it to the Roman Catholics for a high S)rice, he preferred to sell it to the trustees of the Ores^on nstitute for much less. It was exceedingly desirable on the part of the trustees, to secure this property, as, from the location of the farm, embracing a mile square, it was very valuable, and the house itself cost the mission not less than eight thousand dollars. Having an oppor- tunity to sell the first mentioned premises without much sacrifice, they were disposed of, and the Oregon Mission school-house and farm were purchased at an expense of four thousand dollars, an ' are hereafter to be known as the Oregon Institute. Frr the promotion of the interests of the church, and for t' e welfare of this rising country, a more judicious appropriation of the property of the former mission school could not have been made. By selling it to the Catholics, Mr. Gary could have taken more money for it, but it would have been converted into a nunnery. Every Protestant will say, "Rather give it all away, than desecrate it to so impious a pur- M pose The institution stands upon an elevated portion of a beautiful plain, surrounded with the most delightful scenery, and at a point which, at some future day, is destined to be one oi" considerable importance. .-:;^v , ri P I) 1 ii ' m ii U Ii! t< 'L iiii ll'f 242 RETURiN TO OREGON. The building is beautifully proportioned, being seventy- five feet long and forty-eight wide, including the wings, and three stories high. When finished it will not only present a fine appearance without, but will be commo- dious, and well adapted to the purposes intended to be accomplished within. It is already so far advanced that a school is now in successful operation, under the tuition of one well qualified to sustain its interests. Already it numbers more students than did either the Cazenovia Seminary or the Willbraham Acadamy, at their com- mencement, and who can tell but that it may equal, if not exceed both those institutioiw in importance, as well as usefulness. Though I cannot say that it is the only hope of Oregon, for whether it lives or dies, Oregon will yet be redeemed from the remains of Paganism and the gloom of Papal darkness by which she is enshrouded; but the sentiknent forces itself on the mind that the sub- ject of the Oregon Institute is vital to the interests of the Methodist Episcopal church in this country. If it lives, it will be a luminary in the moral heavens of Oregon, shedding abroad the light of knowledge after its founders shall have ceased to live. But if it dies, om sun is set, and it is impossible to tell what will succeed. Perhaps a long and cheerless night of Papal darkness, but more probably, others, more worthy of the honor than ourselves, will come forth to mould the moral mass according to their own liking, and give direction to the literature of Oregon. After the transfer of the premises of the Oregon Mission School to the trustees of the Oregon Institute, all the remaining financial departments connected with the mission, were disposed of principally to those lay- men who had been dismissed from the mission, and the property tiius sold, amounted to upwards of twenty-six thousand dollars. The finances of the Oregon Mission were thus summarily broughf to a close, and the mission was not only relieved of a ponderous load, but assumed a decidedly spiritual character. Previous to the arrival of Mr. Gary, four of tho preachers, besides Mr. Jason Lee, namely: W. W. Kone, - ^^^^^^^^ tlETURN TO OREOON. 243 y J H Frost, J. P. Richmond, and Daniel IjCc, had re- turned to the United States ; consequently, after the dismission of the laymen, there remained connected with the mission five preachers, namely: George Gary, the superintendent, David Leslie, A. F. Waller, H. K W. Perkins and G. Hines. H. K. W. Perkins in the latter part of the summer of 1844 also returned to the United States, leaving but few regular preachers in the country. These, disencumbered from all financial embarrass- ments, addressed themselves to their work in the various portions of the country assigned them, A. F. Waller filling the place made vacant by the departure of Mr. Perkins at the Dalls, David Leslie in the upper part of the Wallamette settlement, and G. Gary and G. Hines at the Wallamette Falls aiid Tuality Plains. The Dalls was the only Indian Mission now sustained, and both here and among the white settlements, it was necessary for the missionary c tantly to expose himself to fatigue and dangers in huntm^, up the p<.^ople to give 'hein the word of life. Fording, aiiH imming rivers, sleeping on the ground and in the ram, a id going without food, were no uncommon incidents in the life ol the Oregon missionary. m $>ii 1 B CHAPTER XIII. Final departure and voyage home — Notice of Captain Sylvester — Arrangetnents to ieavo — Mode of departure — Vancouver again — Clatsop Plains — On board the brif Clienamus — Difficult navigation — Danger — Get into the Bay — Fair breeze — Exit — Fellow passengers — T. J. Hubbard — Wave and Devenport — Mode of taking a porpoise — Scarcity of men — Scarcity of incident — Pilot fish — Make land — Spoken by the English brig Frolic — Shipping — Arrival ul Oahu • Reception — Review of the Mission. ' ;; On the 10th of August, 1845, notice was given hy Captain Sylvester, that the Brig Chenarnus would sail from the Wallamette River for Boston by the way of the Sandwich Islands about the 1st of September, and that a few passengers might be comfortably accommo- dated on board. Mr. Gary began already to consider that his work in Oregon was accomplished, and he felt quite solicitous to avail himself of the opportunity of- fered, to return home; but kindly proposed to leave it altogether with the writer, to say which, whether the latter, or himself, should be the favored one, at the same time assuring me, that if he left, and I should remain in the country, he should leave the superintendency of the mission with me. This, after a night of the utmost solicitude, brought me to the conclusion to close up my missionary labors, and leave the scene of toil and dan- ger, and set my face towards my native land. Rev. Mr. Gary, as the superintend* nt of the mission, made ar- rangements with the Ca})tain for my passage, and that of my family, consisting . >( Mrs. Hines, her sister. Miss Julia Bryant, her sister, and Lucy Anna Maria Lee, the daughter of Rev. Jason Lee, who had already returned to the United States. The amount required was one hundred and fifty dol- lars from Oregon to the Sandwich Islands, and fivo g__llllllllll||^ HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 345 dol- fiva hundred and twenty from the Islands to Boston, by the way of Cape Horn. Through the kind assistance of Mr. and Mrs. Gary, and Mr. and Mrs. Abernethy, we found ourselves pre- pared to leave Oregon City at the Wallamette Falls, on the 29th of August, 1845. The brig had already dropped down the river, and it was necessary for us to descend to the mouth of the Columbia in an open boat. Pro- curing a skiff which belonged to the mission, I loaded my baggage into it, leaving a place in the centre for the accommodation of my family. After dining with our kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Abernethy, we repaired to the boat to take our departure. Adjusting the family in their place, I gave one oar into the hands of Kana, my Hawaiian servant, and the other to James Hemingway, an Indian boy who had resided with us for some time, and myself took the stern oar. We waved a farewell to our friends who stood on the top of the bluff above us, and silently, but not without the deepest emotion, glided off into the strong current of the river. Quickly the beautiful cataract and its flourishing village were hidden from our view by the dark point of fir timber which we had left behind us. Rowing twenty-eight miles, we arrived, late in the evening, within two miles of Vancouver, but not wishing to disturb the gentlemen of the fort at so late an hour, we encamped for the night. Next morning went up to the fort to complete our preparations for sea; were very kindly received by James Douglass, Esq., who by his friendly attentions, and acts of benevolence, paved the way to render our voyage to the islands much more agreeable than it otherwise would have been. Saturday, at two, p. m., left Fort Vancouver, a»id descending the Columbia ten miles, encamped in a grove of willows near the margin of the river, where we re- mained quietly, during the Holy Sabbath. Monday, the 2nd, we continued our voyage, and after three days of excessive labor and fatigue, accompanied with imminent dangers and exposures, during whjch we knew not the luxury of eating or sleeping under the ■%: mi 246 HOMEWARD VOYAGE. cover of a roof, we arrived in safety at the house of Rev. J. L. Parrish, on Clatsop Plains, about seven miles in tLc rear of Point Adams at the mouth of the Colum- bia. Kere we remained until Saturday the sixth, when we were informed by (Jap tain Sylvester that the brig lay in Young's Bay, and was ready to receive us on board. Taking an affecting leave of our old friends Mr. and Mrs. Parrish, with whom we had lived on terms of intimacy in our native land, and with whom we had suffered the perils of a voyage of more than twenty- two thousand miles, as well as the dangers and depriva- tions of a residence among the most savage of men, we were conducted through a forest of fir to a landing on the Seapanowan Creek, the mouth of which forms a good harbor for small craft. Here a boat was sent to take us off, and at four o'clock, p. m., we found ourselves comfortably situated on board the brig Chenamus, with our things nicely packed away in our state rooms, wait- ing '^ )r a favorable wind and tide to take us to sea. Sunday, 7th. In the morning the Calapooah, a small sail-boat, came along side from shore, bringing vegetables and beef for the Chenamus. With her I expected Kana, my Hawaiian, but he had absconded during the night, choosing rather to remain in Oregon than to go back to his native island. Monday, 8th. Weighed anchor in the morning before sunrise, with the wind in the north-east, and a strong ebb tide. Soon the wind died away, and we found we were drifting fast on to Sand Island, and were obliged to come to anchor about one mile and a half from Point Adams. While we lay here the Cadboro, a small schoo- ner from Vancouver, bound to Vancouver's Island with furs, passed us, but finding herself approaching too near the point of Sand Island, she also came to anchor. The wind breezing up a little more fresh, the Chenamus made another attempt to get across to Baker's Bay, but failing, again came to anchor, and found herself worse situated than before. The wind was fair, but the tide bore us out of the channel. After dinner made a third attempt to get to the usual anchorage, in Baker's Bay ; but being liOAIEWAltD VOYAGE. 247 bafPod by the tide, we were again obliged to anchor in a very exposed position, where we lay during the night. The evening of the 10th was exceedingly pleasant, the wind in the north-west, and the prospects quite fair for getting out the next day. Tuesday, 9th. The tables were all turned, the wind was in the south-east, with the prospect of a gale, the vessel in no desirable position, but the captain determined if possible to get into the bay. Accordingly, we weighed anchor, but made another ineffectual effort to gain our moorings, as we were obliged to anchor about one mile and a half from the proper ground. After waiting a few hours for the tide to favor us, we raised anchor again, and after tacking about two or three times be- tween Sand Island and Chenook Spit, we came to anchor only one half mile nearer the desired haven. Wednesday, 10th. In the afternoon we succeeded in getting down into the bay, and anchoring in a suitable place to take the breeze from the north, which is the only wind that will serve us in crossing the bar of the Columbia, and for which we made up our minds to wait patiently, remembering that, in this very place three years before, we were detained by adverse gales that lasted as long as the storm of the deluge. On the 11th and 12th the wind was south and west, which forbade our leaving the bay, consequently we had another opportunity of climbing to the top of Cape Dis- appointment, and surveying the surrounding scenery. During our detention, at the solicitation of' Mrs. H., we enjoyed a pic-nic of muscles, which we found here in abundance, with bread, butter, and tea. Saturday, 13th. In the morning a fresh breeze sprung up from the north, and it was evident that we should bid the dark mountains of Oregon "Good bye," before night. On shipboard, all was bustle and anxiety, and about noon the command of the captain was to " Heave short.*' Accordingly, the windlass was manned, the passengers assisting, and quickly the chain cable was shoi tened, so that the brig was directly over the anchor. VVg waited a few minutes longer for the proper state of 218 HOMEWARD VOYAGE. the tide, which is half-ebb, and then, at about one o'clock, the bows of the brig, yielding to the already freshened breeze, turned towards the dreaded bar, and the rolling deep. The schooner Gadboro' took the lead, and though the bar was exceedingly rough, and the mountain swells broke near us as we passed through the contracted channel, yet the wind was fresh and fair, and we soon found ourselves entirely free from all the sand-bars of the Columbia, and before a seven knot breeze, passing beautifully on our course over the deep dark waves of the Pacific Ocean. Tuesday, lt>th. This is the third day since we crossed the Columbia bar, and as we have been constantly fa- vored with a fair wind, we have made fine progress on our voyage. Five gentlemen are our fellow passengers, whose names are. Wave, Devenport, Teck, a Prussian naturalist, Stewart, and T. J. Hubbard. The last came to Oregon with Captain Wyeth and Ilev. Jason Lee in 1835, and having resided in Oregon since that time, is well acquainted with the history of the country. He was himself connected with a tragical occurrence, the like of which is quite too common in an Indian country. The cause of the difficulty was an Indian woman, whom Hubbard had taken, and was living with as his wife. Previously, she had looked with favor upon another man by the name of Thornburgh, and the latter resolved to take her away from Hubbard, even at the expense of his life. For this purpose be entered Hubbard's cabin in the dead of the night, with a loaded rifle, but Hubbard, having knowledge of his design, had armed himself with loaded pistols, and discharging one at Thornburgh as he entered the door, the ball took effect in the breast of the latter, and he fell, and expired. A self-constituted jury of inquest, after a thorough exan>- ination of the case, brought in a verdict of '* Justifiable homicide." The manner in which Hubbard and the rest of our fellow passengers spend ther time on the voyage indi- cates that they have neitheir become wise nor virtuous from the history of the past. They seem incapable of SSOm UOMKWARD VOYAGE. 249 interesting themselves, save at backgammon or the card table, nearly all the time not consumed in eating or sleeping being employed at one or the other of the two games. Wednesday, 17th. Ware and Devenport were suffer- ing exceedingly from seasickness, and proposed to give the captain one hundred and fifty dollars to set them off on the shore of California ; but as a matter of course, this was inadmissible, and the two gentlemen were doomed to enjoy the pleasures of one sea voyage. But one of them declared that he had rather pack a mule across the Rocky Mountains, than to go to sea ; and that, if he ever sets his foot on terra Jirma again, he will never be caught on another vessel. In the evening backgammon and seasickness were both forgotten a short time in the excitement of taking a large porpoise. This is generally considered a great treat by seamen, especially those on merchant vessels. The manner of taking them is as follows : a rope is passed through a block or pulley, which is fastened to some part of the rigging near the bow of the vessel, one end of which is tied to a harpoon prepared with a handle six or eight feet long, so as to render it con- venient to throw. A sailor then fixes himself on the martingal under the bowsprit, while a few others at the other end of the rope, stand by to haul in. The reason for their taking their position at ihe forward end of the vessel is this ;,the porpoise always plays around the bow more than an^y other part, and the rigging under the bowsprit will admit of a sailor's fixing himself directly over the porpoise in his frequent approaches to this point. When thus prepared, and the porpoises hover around the bow, the harpoon is cast with great force and precision into the selected victim, and instantly the water is crimsoned with his blood. When the " throw " has been a sure one, the word " haul " is given, and the fish, or animal, is immediately raised above the water, and brought upon deck. The taking of a porpoise is one of those exciting events which 11 ■•' 250 HOMEWARD VOVAGB. occaaionally break in upon the monotony of life at sea. It was judged that the one we took would weigh two hundred and fifty pounds. It afforded several gallons of oil, and meat enough to last the sailors for a number of days. Thursday, 25th. Thus far on our voyage we have had the most beautiful weather, there having been no head wind to speak of, and but about four hours calm. We have generally been favored with a gentle breeze from the north-west, which has wafted us on our direct course to Oahu a,t the rate of five and six knots an hour. This has been exceedingly favorable to us on account of the weakness of our crew, six of the men having run away from the brig in Oregon, and could not be recov- ered, leaving but three efiicient men on board of her, beside her three officers. But the Lord knoweth how "to temper (or regulate) the winds to the shorn lamb." We are cheered with the prospect of a speedy pas- sage to the islands, . as we seem to have secured the north-east trades ; but of this there is no certainty, as the trades are not very regular, and at sea above all other places, " we know not what a day may bring forth." Monday, 29th. We were interested in the discovery of a sail on our starboard bow, which appeared to be steering the same course with us. She was a barque, probably a whaler from the northern ocean, bound to the Sandwich Islands, and thence home. Incidents of interest on this voyage thus far have been exceedingly scarce, a very great uniformity having characterized the days we have been at sea. However, the monsters of the deep, whales, sharks, &c., have from time to time attracted our notice, while the dark albatros, mother Carey's chickens, a small sea gull, and the boatswain's mate marlinspike, or man of war bird, as he is indiffer- ently called, are all of the feathered tribe we have seen. The last mentioned is a very interesting bird, snow white, and appears very beautiful as it flits around th? vessel on its wings of light, as if desiring to find a plac HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 251 of rest among the moving spars. It is principally found between the tropics, and must therefore be considered a lover of warm weather. On the 30th crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and as the wind was very light, we found the heat quite oppressive. By a very good observation on the 1st of October, we found our latitude to be twenty-two degrees forty-four minutes, longitude one hundred and fifty-three degrees, fifty minutes ; twenty four hour's sail from Oahu before a seven knot breeze. The captain walks th(s deck whistling for a breeze, and in the evening, behold it comes, and the sailing is delightful. Those who have been sick are getting well, and all unite in pronouncing the voyage thus far, as it regards wind and weather, an unusually pleasant one. Thursday, 14th of October. The trades have fresh- ened up to a strong breeze, and all were delighted with the prospect of seeing land before night. Borne onward prosperously, according to expectation, at four o'clock, the tops of the mountains of the island of Maui, tower- ing above the clouds, burst upon our view. At sundown Morotoi, could also be seen, but both soon disappeared amidst the darkness of night. We continued our course until four o'clock in the morning, when we could dis- tinctly see the land but a few miles distant, and not knowing whether we were exactly right in our calcula- tions, we lay to for the light of day to discover unto us precisely our condition. At six o'clock, a. m., we found ourselves about six miles from Morotoi, with Oahu on our starboard bow, about thirty miles distant. Soon after sunrise a sail appeared on our stern, and evidently neared us very fast, while two other sail appeared on our bow, and seemed to be steering directly towards the harbor. While we were passing around Diamond Head, and the harbor and shipping, with the town of Honolulu, were breaking upon our view, the vessel which had been coming up on our stern, passed us so near that our yard arms were but a few feet from hers. She proved to be her Britanic Majesty's Brig Frolic of sixteen guns. Her commanding officer hailed us as she passed, and r u !i |i I'i Hi «52 H03IEWARD VOYAGR. inquired if we had seen the British Frigate America on our way down. We answered no. Ho replied that she left England with the design of visiting Oregon. The brig was a beautiful craft, but probably would not consider it much of a "Frolic" to take a turn-a-bout with an American " Wasp." The patriotic American very naturally calls to mind under such circumstances the triumph of the " Wasp " over the " Frolic " in the last war, and is led to wonder why a " Wasp " has not been continued in the American Navy. As we drew near the shipping in the outer harbor we discovered a number of men of war, one of which was the British line of battle ship the Collingwood, Lord Sey- mour, Admiral, with which the Frolic passed a number of signals, and approaching her, gave her salute oi sixteen guns, which was returned by the Adi.iiral. - It was an exciting time on board of our little brig as we so suddenly emerged from the solitudes of the ocean into such interesting and noisy scenes. As a number of vessels were before us, it was neces- sary for us to come to anchor in the roads, soon after which we were boarded by the pilot, with whom the Captain went directly to the shore, promising to send otf a boat to take the passengers ashore before night. This he accordingly did, and at sundown we landed on the wharf near the American Consulate, where we found servants waiting with a small hand wagon to convey Mrs. H. and the children to the house of Mr. Rogers, one of the Presbyterian missionaries, where we were kindly invited to take up our lodgings for a day or two. or until we could make other provisions. This is the third time 1 have visited the Sandwich Islands during the last six years, and having mingled several months with both foreigners and natives, I have had an opportunity of making observations of no very superficial character; and as the result, I aui compelled to entertain the opinion that the public generally, and particularly the christian world, enterta n very erroneous views in relation to the true condition of the aliorigines of kMm. HOMEWARD VOYAQB. SS53 these islands. Great changes have indeed been effected, and vast •improvements made among the Hawaiians through the instrumentality of missionary labor, yet, alter all, the amount of real good accomplishod, I foar, 8 not so great as the christian world has been led to believe. Religion, in every department of Hawaiian society, however genuine the system which is taught them may bo, is of a very superficial character. Of this the missionary residing among them, is more sensible than any other man can be, and one of them, in answer to the inquiry, " how mony of your people give daily evi- dence of being christians'?" replied "none, if you look for the same evidence which you expect will be exhibited by christians at home." Indeed, i* is a source of the greatest affliction with the missionaries, liiat all their efforts are inelfectual in eradicating that looseness of morals, which attaches itself so adhesivelv to the lla- waiian character, and which is every where exhibiting itself in the gambling, thievish, and adulterous habits of the people of all classes, from the hut of the most de- graded menial, to the royal palace. One fact will show the astonishing extent to which promiscuous intercourse prevails. Relationship is always traced from the mother, and not from the father, as in all civilized countries, and indeed it is not an easy matter for a Hawaiian to tell who his father is. The practice of promiscuous assemblages of males and females in the streets of Honolulu, is as common as it is odious and demoralizing. Crowds of this descrip- tion may be seen at all times of day and night, where conduct may be witnessed, and conversation heard, of the most reprehensible character. In attending the native churches one is struck with the listlesness and inattention which prevail in the congrega- tion. No matter how important the truths, or how impressive the manner of the speaker, he seems scarcely to gain the heanng of the ear; and seldom do the wor- shippers give any satisfactory evidence that they feel any of the soul hallowing influences resulting from an evangelical waiting before God. The Islanders are far 254 ROMBWARD VOYAGE. behind the Indians of Oregon in paying attention to the preaching of the gospel. If once you can get an Indian to consent to hear you, you are sure of his attention till your speech is closed. But as to the effect produced, there is little to boast of in either case. There are the same cold and callous nature, the same unaccountable stupidity and brutal insensibility to contend with, in both, and these array themselves against all the efforts made to overcome them, with disheartening effect. Notwithstanding these things, which the faithful chron- icler of facts cannot pass over without mentioning, there are, on the other hand, evidences sufficient to establish the vast importance and utility of the missionary cause. For a particular account of the islands and of the mis- sion, the reader is referred to the notes of a former visit. CHAPTER XIV. Vojrase to China — Change of calculations — Embark on board the Leiand - Acci- dent—Departure — 0»bin associates — The Captain — Rules to judge of charac- ter — The Island of Grigan — The Ladrones — Dangerous reefs — Gale — Uashu Islands — Spanish Possessions in the Pacific — Formosa — Chinese Sea — Ship Montreal — Ty phongs ~ The contending Pilots — Appearance of the coast of China— Arrival at Hong Kong - Reception of Keying — Review of the Britii>h troops — Sabbath disregarded — The Rev. Charles Gutslaff — Island of Hong Kong — City of Victoria — Population — Schools — Morrison Education Society — Morrison Hill — Success of the School — Rev. S. R. Brown — Churches — Mis- sions — Where established - Missionaries — Climate of Hong Kong — Soldiers' Burying Ground — Wesleyan Methodists — Short voyage — City of Macao — Grand Prior — Bazaar — Temple — Camoen's Cave — Voyage to Canton — De- Hcripiiun of the " Provincial City " — Adventures in the city — Temple of Honan — Dr. Parker — Dr. Devan — Proclamation of Keying — Counter Pro- clamation — Flower Garden — Dr. Bridgeman — Great excitement — Danger ot an outbreak — Thrust out of the city — Night excursion — On board the Leiand — Things that strike the foreigner — Boat population — Pirates. Friday, October 10th. I was informed by Captain Sylvester that the Chenamus, in which we expected to take passage to the United States, would not be ready to sail under two or three months, and there being •several vessels ready to sail for the States by the way of China, 1 resolved, if possible, to obtain a passage in one of them. Applying to Mr. Finlay, the supercargo of the ship I/cland, which had just arrived at Honolulu from Callao, and was designing in a day or two to con- tinue her voyage to China, and thence direct to New York, I was at first informed that all the staterooms but one were occupied, and there being four of us he could not make us comfortable in that. At first we relinquished the idea of sailing in that ship, but ascertaining that a young gentleman had taken the room adjoining the spare one who expected to leave the vessel at Hong Kon^, I concluded that, if Mr. Finley would allow me the pnvi- 256 VOYAGE TO CHINA. iA :t ' lege of sleeping on the sofa or floor of the cabin, Mrs. H. and the two girls could, for the short space of thirty days, get along with the one room, and after that, the disembarkation of the young gentleman would give us the privilege of the occupancy of both. This I suggested to Mr. Finlay, and readily obtained u proposal from him to take us to New York by the way of Canton for eight hundred dollars. As it would have cost me one hundred dollars per month to have remained at the islands, and five hundred and twenty for passage on the Chenamus, 1 concluded that the expense of the latter course would be nearly, if not quite, equal to the passage by the way of China. This, connected with other reasons which in- volve the character of the Chenamus, both as it regards her accommodations, and the morals which prevailed on board, had the influence to bring me to the conclusion to accept of the proposal of Mr. Finlay, and return to my native land by the way of the Celestial Empire. Accordingly, on Wednesday, the 15th of October, at two o'clock, p. M., we embarked on board the Inland, and as the wind was fair, had a prospect of going to sea before night. Twenty-two vessels had been waiting for the southern gales to subside, and the northern breeze to come to enable them to put to sea, and by good luck ours was the fourth on the pilot's list. A little accident came well nigh detaining us in the harbor over night. As our anchor was raised our vessel was driven by the strong trade wind directly down to another ship, stern first, doing but little damage however, but rendering it necessary for us to warp up against the wind for some distance, before we could get clear of the ships that lav in our track. Extricating ourselves from this difficulty, just as the sable curtains of the evening began to render it difMcult for us to discern the outlines of the interesting island of Oahu, our pilot. Captain Penhollow, who had conducted us out of the inner harbor through the narrow winding channel that opens a passage through the coral reef with which the island is environed, wishing us a happy and prosperous voyage, returned towards the glimmering /' VOYAGE TO CHIXA. 257 I- i ■T 41 ights of the city of Honolulu, while to the command, " square away the yards," our ship's prow was pointed to the westward, and before the silent hour of twelve, the fast receding island had disappeared amidst the gloom of surrounding darkness. On leaving this delightful Oasis of the ocean, where we had spent so many nours of unmingled enjoyment, we could but feel those sensa- tions which moved the Ijcart of the poet to sing as he left his island home, ♦• Shades of eveninpf close not o'er us, , her.ve our lone'ly bark awhile ! Mci-n, alas ! will not restore us Yonder dim and distant isle ; Still my fancy can discover Sunny spots where friends may dwell ; Darker shadows round us hover, lale of beauty. Fare thee well I" A. gale had long oeen blowing from the south, and consequently the sea was very high, and for two or three of the first days the passengers were nearly all co'.ifined to their births with sea sickness, but the 20th found us on a comparatively smooth sea, gliding along before a gentle breeze from the north-east, in the enjoy- ment of health, and conse(iuently qualified to take obser- vations in regard to the ship, officers, crew and passen- gers, with whom we were to be so intimately connected, and with the interests of whom our own were to be so closely blended, during a voyage encompassing three- quarters of the globe. Our fellow passengers consisted of Rev. A. B. Smith, wife, and three orphan children, the daughters of the late Mr. Lock, of Oahu, Mrs. Hooper, the wife of Wm. Hooper, Esq., acting Consul at Oahu, two children, and Mr. Sheliber, the young gentlenian mentioned above. Besides these, Mr. Finlay, the supercargo, occupied a state room in the cabin, and this constituted our cabin society, as the Captain stopped principally in the round house, on deck. Our first impressions regarding our associates in the cabin, were quite favorable, but tlie Captain we found to be a surly jack tar, well iccjuainted ■ i » !' H ii. m 25S VOYAGE TO CHINA. with Biliingigate vocabulary, and ready to draw upon its resources on all occasions. Indeed, it appeareii from the amazing facility with which he could call to his aid the most vulgar kind of swearing, that he must have taken his regular gradations in the high school of his Satanic majesty himself. Mr. Finlay, who had control of the business of the vessel, showed at the outset, a desire to render his passengers comfortable, in the abun- dant provisions, consisting of vegetables, pigs, poultry, &c., with which he caused the ship to be supplied. As the Leland was built in packet style, we found the cabin fine, and the state-rooms quite commodious ; and after a few days' experience we were obliged to admit that the table of the Leland was better furnished than that of any other vessel in which we had sailed. We were favored with gentle breezes from the north- east and east which carried us along from five to seven knots an hour, without anything in particular to break the monotony of the voyage until the 6th of November, when at three, p. m., we made Grigan, the northernmost of the Ladrone Islands. The appearance of this island, as we passed along by it about six miles off, was exceed- ingly interesting, perhaps more so to us in consequence of our not having been for many days entertained with the sight of any object but the sky over our heads, the boundless expanse of waters, around us, and the little world in which we were floating. This island is very high, nearly round, and rising gradually from its mar- gin, it hides its summit above the clouds. It appeared remarkably green as if covered with timber, or with other vegetation of a luxuriant growth. The island was visited two years ago by Mr. Dwight from the United States, and some twenty or thirty per* sons, some of whom were white men, and some native* were found upon it. The white men appeared to be of the sailor class, but could not give a very good account of themselves. The Ladrone Islands are numerous, and the entire group belongs to the once famous, but now crumbling kingdom of Spain. The two southernmost are now (^■WidiiiiiliJefiiiiiiMkii VOYAGE I'O CHINA. 259 principally occupied by Spaniards, and are used by Spain as a kind of Botany Bay, or place of banishment for state prisoners. Though their climate is delightful and some of them are fine fertile islands, yet they, are o*' but little consequence to the world ; and this is uoubllcss owing to the weakness and indolence of their possessors. Since they were first discovered by Magel- lanni, 1521, they have been inhabited by a set of thieves and pirates, and hence they are called " Ladrone (pirate) Islands." West of the Ladrones are a number of dangerous reefs, which have been seen by several navigators ; and it was our fortune to get directly among them. How- ever, Providence smiled upon us, and we passed them all in safety, though while exposed to them, we were visited by a tremendous gale from the south, which not only prostrated us with seasickness, but threatened to drive us into the caverns of the deep. The waves rolled in mountains, and dashing around us in frightful pyramids, and commingling their deafening roar with the howling of the fitful blasts, struck terror into the brave hearts of the sons of the ocean, and admonished all to fear and tremble before Him who rideth upon the wings of the wind. After four days of incessant gales from every point of compass, the wind subsided, a calm succeeded, a breeze followed from the north and brought with it the blessings of health to the sick, and prosperity on our voyage. On the 14th of November the appearance of strange birds, and now and then an object, tloating upon the sur- face of the water, gave signs thai we were approaching land. On the evening of the 15th, we passed through between the north Bashed Islands, and the Tobal, Tobago, and Hima. The Bashee Islands all belong to Spain. Many of them are thickly settled, and are said to be very fertile. All the Spanish islands in this part of the Pacific Ocean are governed by a captain general, whose residence is at Manilla, on the island of Luconia. His government is exceedingly despotic, and he is only responsible to the ministry in Spain, i i 260 VOYAGE TO CHINA. t ! J : ji I^uconia, or Luzon, as it is laid down on some maps, is said to be a splendid island, vieing in natural resources with the far famed island of Java; but from the despotic nature of its government, and the indolence and jealousy of the Spaniards, it is of but little consequence to the crown of Spain. On Sunday morning, the 16th, the island of Formosa was descried from the quarter deck. This island, with the Bashees and Luconia, form a chain which separates the Chinese Sea from the Pacific Ocean. Formosa was the first land we saw over which the Emperor of China sways his sceptre. It is a large island, with many fer- tile valleys, but the highlands from our vessel appeared exceedingly barren. It contains a number of large cities, and the population is exceedingly numerous. There is no direct business carried on betwixt them and foreigners, as this is a part of the Celestial Empire which barbarians arri not allowed to visit. On the day before we entered upon the Chinese Sea, it was exceedingly dark and gloomy, but we had no sooner passed the islands above mentioned, than the clouds disappeared, the sun arose in indescribable splen- dor, a fresh and invigorating breeze sprang up from the north, and we were wafted most delightfully over the sea of China, at the rate of nine miles an hour, towards our destination. Early in the morning we discovered a vessel fifteen miles astern of us, and at evening she passed us about three miles to the leeward, and proved to be the American ship Montreal, which left the harbor of Honolulu four hours before us. She formerly be- longed to a line of London packets, is reputed a fast sailor, and should have beaten us at least six days to China. On the morning of the 17th, the water changed from a deep blue to a light green, which indicated that we were already on soundings, though two hundred and sixty miles from port. The Chinese Sea is regarded as the most dangerous waters to navigate in this part of the world, owing to tlie numerous shoals and currents, and to the windi VOYAGE TO CHINA 20 1 .' n 'i*' called '• ty phongs," which prevail in this region. The name rendered into English is literally great-winds, ty, signifying great, and pnong, wind. They often conie without giving any warning of their approach, and woe to the luckless vessel on which their fury is poured. Sails, spars, and rigging fly 'ii fragments before the blast, and happy is that ship whose dismasted hull still floats upon the surface of the agitated deep after the storm has expended its violence. Many vessels, with their entire crews, have foundered in these storms, and not a vestige of them have ever been seen afterwards. On the morning of the 18th, we passed the rock called " Pedro Branco, and at sunrise Chinese fishing boats appeared on every side, and the rough outlines of the coast of China presented themselves before us. Pre- sently two boats bearing the pilot's flag, approached us, and an amusing strife took place betwixt them to see which should get on board of us first. They both came along side at once, and the two pilots sprung on to the side of our ship at the same time ; but one of them in his effort to jump, stumbled, and fell into the sea. We were passing through the water with great rapidity, and the unlucky pilot, struggling in the water for life, and frightened so that his eyes stood out of his head like those of a craw fish, shot astern of us with the velocity of an arrow. But, accustomed to such adventures, his comrades in the boat immediately cast off a couple of long Bambo sticks, which the unfortunate man seized, and with the assistance of them kept himself above the water. A few hours afterwards he was picked up by a small boat which was sent out for his relief. On approaching the coast, fishing and other boats are seen in every direction, even far out of sight of land, and one is impressed with the idea of the vast popula- tion of the Chinese Empire, long before he mingles with the countless throngs on *' terra Jirma.^^ As the land, with the light of morning, burst upon our view, there was disclosed a succession of barren mountains, exceed- ingly irregular in their outlines, and with the numerous wlanda of rocks ; and the bays and gulfs which abound 262 VOYAGE TO CHINA. I : along the shore, present the most formidable barriers to the vast interior. The striking dissimilarity of this coast to all others, as well as the treacherous and piratical character of the inhabitants, may explain in part the reason why maritime nations have been so tardy in gaining access among the Chinese. But this coast is getting now to be well uwderstood. Since the war with England, two vessels have beer* constantly employed in surveying its numerous islands, intricate channels, and deep indentations. At ten o'clock, a. m., of the 18th of November, we rounded the west point of the island of Hong Kong, and came to anchor in the beautiful bay, which reflects, as from a liquid mirror, the flourishing city of Victoria. We were immediately invited on shore by the Rev. S. R. Brown, who is in the employment of the Morrison Education Society, as conductor of a school for the benefit of Chinese boys, and to whom we had letters of introduction, and with whom we spent an agreeable week. On the following Sabbath evening I was invited to preach in a chapel recently built, and known as the "Union Chapel," though it is principally under the control of the missionaries of the London Missionary Society. The congregation consisted of English residents, soldiers, Americans, and native Chinese, and numbered about one hundred persons. We arrived at Hong Kong just in time to witness the arrival and subsequent public entertainments of the cel- ebrated Chinese statesman. Keying, who is the governor general of the province of Canton, and imperial com- missioner to transact the business of the government relating to the intercourse of China with other nations. His visit had been long expected, and from the great popularity of the statesman, both in China and among the British, it was cojtemplated with a great degree of interest. Splendid preparations had been made for his reception, and to render his visit not only interesting to himself, but conducive to the extension of British influ- ence in China. He was coi.ducted from Whampo to Hong Kong in a VOYAGE TO CUINA. 26a British steamboat, and recollecting the immense destruc- tion of Chinese occasioned by a similar vessel in the late war, he closely examined every part of her on his pas- sage down ; and while passing around among the men, he scattered his gold and silver with the most princely liberality. The boat arrived before the town of Victo- ria on Thursday evening, and his excellencj received a salute from the guns of the batteries and from the ships of war in the harbor, which was returned after the Chinese custom. His excellency landed amidst the roaring of cannon and the strains of martial music, and was conveyed in a splendid palanquin to the house which had been fitted up with great care, for his recep- tion ; and where, during the remainder of the evening, ail the pubFic functionaries and grandees of Hong Kong paid their respects to their illustrious visitor. On Friday evening Keying and his suite. Lord Coch- ran, Lord Seymour, with all the grandees of the place, dined at the house of Sir John Francis Davies, the governor of Hong Kong, and from the representations of an eye witness, the evening wound up with a bac- chanalian revel. Towards the close of the following day, a review of the British troops on the island, was to take place, and Keying was to appear in public, and give an opportunity for those to see him who were not allowed to mingle in the gay saloons of lords, knights, and barons. They were not disappointed in their expectations ; for as the high mountains of Hong Kong began to cast a cooling shade upon the city of Victoria, Keying and his suite were carried in sedan chairs to the house of Sir John Francis Davies, and soon after both their excellen- cies, with their attendants, accompanied by the Rev. Charles Gutslaff, as Chinese interpreter, repaired to a high bank beside the road, and located themselves upon it for the purpose of reviewing the troops as they were marched before them. We had the good fortune to place ourselves within a few feet of the oank, where we had a fine view of this titled group, as also of the sol diers. The latter consisted of two regiments, one of ! ; holy day; while the y jblic works, such as the erec- tion of government buildings and fortifications, are pros- ecuted on the Sabbath the same as on ot!ier days. This is a source of great grief to the missionaries in this part of China, and may be regarded as one of the greatest obstacles in the way of success, with which every mis- sionary to t}»is country must come in contact. True, English service, in a most sickly manner, is performed twice on the Sabbath, but there are but few who attend regularly, while the vast majority of English and other foreigners at Hong Kong, use the Lord's day as a day of business or recreation, December 10th, Dined at ight o'clock in the evening with the Rev. Charles Gutslatl, who is now a resident of Hong Kong, having recently received an appointment from the Colonial Government as Chinese Secretary. Perhaps there are few men in the world who have excited more interest in a missionary point of view, thnn this reverend gentleman. He is a Prussian by birth, is about fifty-five years of age, and has been in China thirty years, most of which have been employed in missionary labors in various parts of the empire. Though he has lost much of his influence as a Christian minister, both among the natives and foreigners, yet he is laboring to sustain himself as a missionary in the country, as well as a civilian. He informed me that twenty-five native preachers who belonged to a society which he had organized for the propogation of the gospel in China, came to him for counsel and direction in their work; and that they were circulating through every part of the Chinese Empire, and were preaching from ten to fifteen sermons each per day. After the death of John Morrison, Jr., who filled the ofiice of Chinese Secretary for a few years, Gulslaff, irom his thorough knowledge of the dift'erent dialects of the Chinese language, was appointed to this lucrative station. His salary is £1500 sterling per annum, con- siderably more than that of the Vice President of thrj United States, while the salary of the Governor of the -■-TTi- 2G0 VOYAGE TO CHINA, iJ little petty colony of Hong Kong, amounts to threo times as much as that of the President of our Union. Gutslart' appears to have made it one object of his resi- dence in C'hina, to accumulate wealth, and it is said that his eftbrts in this respect, have been successful. Reporl aJfirms that he has £15,000 deposited in the bank of Australia which he has accumulated while employed as a missionary, and probably some of the prejudice exis- ting against him, arises from this circumstance, but it would be doing him great injustice not to admit that his unwearied labors for the benefit of China have been f)roductive of good. In addition to his other labors he las recently published a Chinese Dictionary, which, with those previously published, will afford missionaries great facilities for the acquisition of the language. To foim a correct estimate of this original character doubtless requires a most intimate acquaintance, while a short interview with him cannot fail to leave the impression upon the mind of the stranger, that the most singular compound of the gentleman and the clown, the divine and the civilian, the scholar and the novice, the sage and the humorist, the christian and the worldling, enters into, and forms the character of the Rev. Charles Gutslaff. The island of Hong Kong, as the fruits of an unjust war, was ceded by China to Great Britain at the close of the late unhappy contest, and now constitutes a part of that empire upon which it has become the boast of her statesmen that the sun never sets. It is very irre- gular in its outlines, both as it regards its coast and its surface. It is not far from eight miles long, and varying in its width from one to four miles. On ap- proaching it in a vessel, it presents a very forbidding aspect. It rises abruptly from the water, and its most elevated points are about three thousand feet above the level of the sea. Originally it was one huge mountain of granite, but for many ages this primitive rock has been decomposing, and the present soil of the island consists of decayed granite, with a small portion of decomposed vegetable matter. There are several val- lies in the island through which meander small brooks VOYAGE TO CHINA. 2ft 7 and being green and fertile, give the name to the island, Hong Kong signifying an island of green and fertile vallies. The city oi' Victoria, embracing both the Chinese and English portions, stretches along the eastern side of the island nearly three miles. Its greatest de[)th is not more than one-fourth of a mile, and the abruptness of the mountains behind the city, will not admit of extending the buildings far in that direction. Though it is but about five years since the city was commenced, yet it has grown up so rapidly, and contains so many magnificent buildings, that one of the learned Chinese Mandarins who accompanied Keying, on leaving the place, com- posed a poem in honor of the city, in which he entitled it " the city of splendid palaces." The city, however, is in a very unfinished state, and the sound of the ham- mer and trowel is heard in every part of it during seven days in a week, and it is therefore rapidly improving; and doubtlees, from its favorable location, and by the assistance ot British wealth and infiiience, it is destined to become a place of great commercial importance. The population of Hong Kong amounts to about thirty thousand persons, most of whom are Chinese. There are about four hundred English residents on the island, besides the soldiers, and not more than ten Americans. These, with the regiment of Irish soldiers already re- ferred to, constitute all the white people embraced in this colony. The Chinese population, numbering more than twenty-five thousand, are exceedingly industrious in their habits, and accomplish a great share of the re- tailing business of the city. In consequence of the unhealthiness of the climate the English residents have fixed themselves here but temporarily, and design, after having amassed a fortune, to return to old England to enjoy the fruits of their labors. Many of them, how- ever, fall victims to the malignant fevers which here prevail, and their dreams of worldly aggrandizement vanish with their lives. The schools of Hong Kong require to be noticed. Here are no public schools for the benrfit of white .-•1S7 268 VOYAGE TO CHINA. children, consequently they are growing up, as in other new colonies, in comparative ignorance. The. school which is supported by the Morrison Educalion Society is one of gr .at importance to the interests of China, as the influence it exerts at present, and the objects it con- templates, sufficiently prove. The circumstances which led to the formation of the Morrison Education Society, was the death of the Rev, Robert Morrison, D. D., who, in connection with his unwearied labors as a missionary, officiated many years as translator in the service of the Hon. East India Company in China. The friends of this great and good man in China, having been deeply interested in the success of his labors while living, and wishing to cherish a grateful remembrance of him when dead, resolved to erect a monument worthy to perpetu- ate his memory, and calculated to assist in carrying forward that work, in the promotion of which he had fallen a sacrifice. Dr. Morrison died on the 2d of Au- gust, 1834, and on the 9ih of November, 1836, the soci- ety which took his name, was organized at Canton having a fund of six thousand dollars. The objects of the society, as expressed in its const tution, are, " to inriprove and promote education in China, by schools and other means." Chinese youth were to be taught to read and write the English language, in connection with their own; and by these means the society designed ** to bring within their reach all the instruction requisite for their becoming wise, industrious, sober and virtuous members of society, fitted in iiieir respective stations in life, to discharge well the duties which they owe to themselves, their kindred, and their God.'' The trustees of the society designed to employ two teachers, one from England, and one from the Uni- ted States, and made application accordingly. From England they received no reply, but a favorable one from the States,, and on the 23d of February, 1839, Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Brown, from Massachusetts, arrived in China, but the war immediately breaking out, rendered it necessary for them to take up their residence at Macao. Here, by the advice A the trustees, Mr. Brown VOYAGE TO CHINA. 269 • ommenced opeiations, but the Chinese wore so slow in appreciating the effort, that in September, 1841, the scliool numbered but thirteen schohxrs. Catho'> inflitence, and Chinese exclusiveness, rendered Macao ahnost as undesirable a location for the school, as Canton; and as Hong Kong had fallen into the hands of the IJritish, application was made to Sir Henry Fottinger, her British Majesty's plenipotentiary, for the privilege of locating the school on that island. This application resulted in the appropriation of a hill which overlooks the city of Victoria, as the location for the buildings, and which from that time has been known as '* Morrison Hill."' Extensive buildings were immedi- ately erected, the number of the pupils increased, an assistant teacher employed, and from that time the school has been progressing in every way correspondent to the expectations of its warmest friends. At present the school numbers thirty students, all boys, and many of them have made great improvement. A circum- stance which was related to me by Mr. Brown, shows in whet light the Chinese first viewed the school, and the influence it is beginning to exert. An aged Chinese, who had finally consented to send three of his boys to the school, observed one day to Mr. Brown, " we could not at first understand wh}^ a foreigner should wish to feed and instruct our children for nothing. We thought there must be some sinister imotive at the bottom of it. Perha['S it was to entice them away from their parents and country, and transport them to some foreign land. At all events, it was a mystery. But .1 understand it now. I have had my three sons in your school steadily since they entered it, and no harm has happened to them. Tlie oldest has been qualified for the public service as interpreter. The other two have learned nothing bad. The rsligion you have taught them, and of which I was so much afraid, has made thorn better. I myself believe its truth, though the customs of my country forbid my embracing it. I have no longer any fears — you ia^bor for other's good, not your own." Treparations have recently been made for the en- ■^i>iMiMfcm*m «aitiiam tMii)iViifiyi a .vin jui; 270 VOYAGE TO CHINA, R i I iargement of the school ; as many more had applied foi admission during the last year, than could possibly be accommodated. A fortunate appropriation of fourteen thousand dollars to the institution, with a recent sub- scription of several thousand dollars more, will enable the trustees suitably to enlarge it, and to place it upon a firm basis. The above appropriation was made by the persons who had the settlement of the estate of the lamented J R. Morrison, son of the late Dr. Robert Morrison. That gentleman, while living, was deeply interested in the welfare of the school, and it was thought pr v, hy those upon whom it devolved to dispose of his ». < perty, to associate his name with that of his father, by bestowing fourteen thousand dollars of his estate upon the institution as a permanent fund, and thus to raise a noble monument to perpetuate the memory of both of these benefactors of the Chinese nation. The conductor of this school, the Rev. S. R. Brown, is every way entitled to the confidence of the community which employs him, and of the Chinese, for whose ben- efit he is devoting his life. His interests are blended with those of this institution, and his whole soul is en- listed to promote its advancement. And, in the rapid improvement of the students in the arts and sciences, in the correctness of their moral deportment, and in the satisfactory evidence which some of them give of genu- ine conversion and a qualification for future usefulness, he already witnesses the happy results of his labors. As this institution was established upon a hroad basis, and is conducted according to the most enlarged views of benevolence, its supporters and directors are among the benefactors of mankind. There are two churches in Hong Kong, which have been erected for the accommodation of foreigners ; one of which is the " Union Chapel," and the other is an Ef>iscopalian church. In the former, the missionaries officiate alternately, and the latter is su})pliod by the chaplains from the army and navy. Some of these latter dwines, after spending Saturday evening in card ^,ii^ ■■^/■:- , ■' •^l-:':''':^''. 4^ •■ ^H^'.^i-^.'^'V" wpiwww \ VOYAGE TO CHINA. playing and wine drinking, will enter the sacred desk on ♦Sunday, and preach, no( as messengers of God, but as ** one tliat playeth skiUtully on an instrument" — and their hearers, as destitute of rehgion as themselves, will ftatter their vanity by informing them that they have preached an admirable sermon. A few of these chaplains, nowever, are evangelical men, and when they preach, they hesitate not ** to decalre the whole counsel of God." It fell to the lot of one of these to preach on a Sabbath when a number of the great men of the island were present ; and knowing the viciousness of their charac- ters, like a man of God he enforced upon them the important truth, that, " without holiness, no man shall see the Lord." At the close of his sermon he wtis informed by the general of the army that his " preach incr was not acceptable ; that they came to church to be comforted, not to be condemned to hell." After the island of Hong Kong had been wrested from the Chinese by the English, the missionaries in this part of China, generally collected at this place. Formerly, Macao was the only place where foreigners with their families could reside. But as Macao was under papal influence, and Canton was yet inaccessible, Hong Kong was judged to be the most proper place for the establishment of the missions. Accordingly, mis- sionaries of the London Missionary Society, and also of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and the Baptist Foreign Board, fixed theii residences in this place. They built their dwelling houses, churches, and school-houses for the Chinese, with the design of constituting this place the center of their operations. Some of tiiese buildings were quite expensive, espe- cially the mis- ion house of the American Board. At the con>^lusion of the war, Hong Kong becoming English ground, and Canton accessible to missionaries and their families, all the Ameri(*an missionaries resolved at once to abandon the former, and establish themselves n the latter place. Th s subjected them to a great pe i %^ ^^X'i"A'Pi.^K^[\ '8;' 272 VOVAOE TO iHINA. cqniary loss in the buildings and other property, which they were obhged to sacrifice at Hong Kong. But th(,'y considered it to be their duty to enter the opening which British cannon had made into China^ beHeving that the advantages, in a missionary point of view, of a location in Canton, would more than counterbalance all the pecu niary losses to which such a course would subject them. Consequently, Dr. Bridgeman, Dr. Parker, and Dr. Ball, of the A. B. C. F. M., and Dr. Devan, of the Baptist Board, have retired from Hcmg Kong, and have taken up their residence in the Provincial city. Whether they have acted wisely, remains to be decided ; but be this as it may, the three or four Chinese houses of wor- ship which they erected at Hong Kong, are nearly deserted, and the fruits of their labors are rapidly disappearing. Dr. Legg and Mr. Gallaspie, of the London Missiorn ary Society, are establishing themselves permanently in Hong Kong. Dr. Legg, however^ is now on a visit to England, but designs to return and resume his labors ia this place. They have receiitly erected a large and splendid mission house, which appears from a distance more like the palace of a prince,, than the house of the humble missionary. They have here collected a school of boys, whom they are endeavoring to instruct, and, though the fruits of their labors ai*e tardy in exhibiting themselves, yet, by various means, «uch as the printing of books in Chinese, and preaching by their Chinese assistants, they are casting their bread upon the waters^ and are expecting to be able to gather it after many days. It is difficult to tell what amount of good has been accomplished by missionary labor in Hong Kong, doubt- less much more than the enemies of missions are willing to admit. But it is evident the work at this [xjint, as well as in some other portions of the mission field, has been greatly irt}ured by the publication of reports furnished by missionaries of too fiaming a character. Missionary reports always return to the places t'ncy arc designed to . '#flMi VOYAGE TO CHINA. 273 r reprusent, and if they are not strictly true, they always create prejudice against the cause they are designed to promote. The climate of Hong Kong is very unsalubrious, -particularly during the prevalence of the south-west monsoons. The monsoons are winds which blow one-half of the vear from the south-west, and the other half from the north-east. The north-east monsoon prevails during our fall and winter months, and while it continues, the island is considered a comparatively healthy location ; but after the winds set in from the south-west, the atmosphere becomes exceedingly oppressive. The heat of the sun becomes almost unendurable, and both natives and foreigners enter into every possible precaution to guard against the deleterious effects of the sun's burning rays. Notwithstanding the extreme care exercised by fo- reigners to preserve health, this climate proves fatal to many of them. It is peculiarly debilitating to the fomale constitution, and a number of the wives of missionaries, have here fallen as martyrs in their work. The Hong Kong fever has become notorious wherever the name of the place is known ; and while all who come to this country are more or less exposed to this most malignant of all levers, perhaps the soldiers quartered here are the greatest sufferers. Such is the astoniahing mortality that reigns among them, that it is necessary to reinforce them annually with a fresh regiment from home, in order to keep ready for effective service one thousand men. Indeed, in view of the unhealthiness of its climate, Hong Kong is no desirable place of residence for foreigners, and there are birt two motives sufficiently powerful to induce either Europeans or Americans to continue here a great length of time : These are the love ofmoney and the love of souls. Having heard much concerning the soldiers' burying G:round, on the 14th of December, curiosity led us to i;iko a walk over this depository of the dead. About one mile and a half from the town, the old barracks 12 J: 38 •. V ='1 t ,1 Afff 274 VOYAGE TO CHINA, II were situated, whore the soldiers were quarterr^d imme- diately after the conclusion of the China war, and during the unhoalthy part of the season. But a few score of them had fallen before the prowess of their Chinese enemies, but while quietly lying in their barracks, and recounting the victories they had won, they were attacked by an enemy before whor.> kings turn pale, and the valor of the bravest soldier falters. The Hong Kong fever brought death into the war- riors' camp, and during the short period of six weeks, more than five hundred men were laid in the dust by this fearful scourge. Walking in company with our friend Rev. Rowland Reese, we came to the ground where these half a thou- sand, together with several hundred, who had died previously, were buried, and the first thing that attracted our attention was the cofiin of a small child, which lay partly embedded in the ground, its lid broken off, and disclosing some of the bones of the infant whicli the hungry dogs of the Chinese, in robbing the colfin, had allowed to remain. In viewing this, we recollected that British soldiers were sometimes allowed to take their wives and children with them, and they are consequently liable to share the fate of the soldier. Going a little farther, we found ourselves surrounded with coffins on every side, some of them partly covered, others entirely above ground, and many of them robbed of their con- tents by hungry dogs and swine, while ghastly skulls and other bones lay bleaching far and near. Our hearts sickened while we looked around upon this modern Gol- gotha, and we fancied we heard from the numerous skeletons which whitened the ground around us, the bitterest imprecations uttered against that cruel war system, which was relentless in its claims upon them while living, and in death cast them beyond the common sympathies of humanity. We left this scene of desolation, lion that those great ones of the earth, who, from motives of ambition and cupidity, entail so much misery upon theij fellow men as results from the practice of iiiiMXiriHMiJ VOYAGE TO CHINA. ^875 f waf, will have a fearful account to render at the bar of God. Surely, thought we, this is the glory which mul- titudes who enter the field of strife, secure to themselves; they die like the brute, and are denied the rights of sepulture, but an eternal weight of glory awaits every christian warrior. During our stay at Hong Kong we became acquainted with several Wesleyan Methodists from England. Some of them are soldiers in the army, and when there has been a sufficient number of them, they have formed themselves into classe;?, and as far as their circumstances would permit, they have in other respects enjoyed the institutions of Methodism. The Rev. Rowland Reese, who resides at Hong Kong, and has been for several years in the employ of the government, as a civil engi- neer, is a local preacher from England, and takes a very decided stand in the place where he lives in favor of that form of Christianity called Methodism, which he considers to be not only the purest in the world, but the most efficient in its '■^ modus operandV^ Undei *his conviction, he has frequently addressed the British Conference on the subject of sending missionaries to China, proposing to give towards the support of one, one hundred dollars per year, though his income is quite limited. He has at length gained an assurance from the president of the conference, that measures have been taken to grant his request, and he is now looking for the arrival of the missionaries. He appears to be an excellent brother, and is certainly entitled to the blessing of those who entertain strangers. Our continuance at Hong Kong was four weeks, three of which we spent at the house of Mr. Reese. Though the expense of living at Hong Kong is great, yet this truly benevolent man furnished us with all the comforts his house afforded, without money and without price. On the 15th of December we took leave of our newly formed acquaintance at Hong Kong, and taking what the Chinese call a "fast boat," proceeded through a perfect labyrinth of islands, across thn mouth of Pearl river to the city of Macao, the distance of thirty miles. ■II ;l •A it fii 276 VOYAGE TO CHINA. It was late in a very dark evening when we arrived in the inn(3r harbor, and as our baggage must all pass through the Custom House on landing, we must neces- sarily leave it in the care of the Chinese on the boat, during the night, as there were no conveniences for our continuing on board. This arranged, we committed ourselves to the guidance of the captain of the boat, having given him the name of the individual whom we wished to find, and by the way of a narrow avenue, on each side of which the towering walls of the buildings were rendered scarcely visible by the glimmerings of a Chinese lantern, we entered the densely populated city of Macao. Winding along the crooked lanes, and tra veling as fast as we could for thirty minutes or more, we at length entered a gloomy mansion, situated near the centre of the city, where our guide told us our friend Uved. Here we were cordially welcomed by the Rev. Dr. Happer, a missionary of the Presbyterian Board, who had kindly invited us to make his hous»5 our home while we desired to remain in the city. Dr. Happer has been in China but little more than one year, and consequently has not made a great impression. He has established a school of twenty-five Chinese boys, and is teaching them the English language, while a person employed for that purpose is instructing him in the Chinese. He feels encouraged to prosecute his work, though the prospect of accomplishing much, is dark before him. Macao is a Portuguese town, containing forty thou- sand inhabitants, thirty-five thousand of whom are Chi- nese, and five thousand Portuguese. Of the latter there are but ^a few hundred native Portuguese, they being mostly of the half-caste population. The Portuguese pay an annual tribute to China for the privilege of remaining here, and indeed Macao is under the control of the Chinese, thoiigh for purposes of mutual advantage, the Portuguese have been allowed to continue in posses- sion. The Portuguese first established themselves here mora -! .MiiiLiainiT'it, . VOYAGE to CHINA. 277 'M than three hundred years ago, and during the first hun- dred years, Popish missionaries from this point, had penetrated into every part of the Chinese Empire, even into the very palace of the Em[)eror himself. But, inter- meddling with the affairs of government, the priests were banished from Pekin. This checked the prosperity of the Papists, and though unwearied efforts have been made ever since that time to establish Popery perma- nently in the Empire, yet they have resulted in giving it but a doubtful footing. Macao, however, being under the domination of Portugal, is papistical in its character, and contains several splendid cathedrals and convents; and the priests, from the snowy-headed " padre " down to the boy of ten years, may be seen perambulating the streets in every part of the city, almost without number. Here Catholicism exists in its grandeur and magnificence, as well as in its disgusting forms and nameless mummeries. But it may be remarked, in favor of the Catholics of Macao, that they are more tolerant in their principles and practice than any other Catholics in the world. During the celebration of high mass on Christmas eve, we took the opportunity of visiting three of the most splendid churches in the city, and in neither of them were we obliged to kneel, even at the elevation of the Sacred Host. During the short but sanguinary contest betwixt the English and Chinese, Macao, as a matter of course, remained neutral; and as a consequence of the war, and during the short period of six vears, she made more rapid improvements than ever before : but when the articles of peace were signed under her wallu, the death blow was given to her prosperity. English capital and English influence have already placed her rival. Hong Kong, or Victoria, far abovo her in point of wealth and commercial importance, though it is but five years since the latter sprang into being ; whereas Macao boasts of an antiquity of more than three hundred years. The houses of some parts of Macao are built after the European style, though the j^, ^ 280 ▼OYAOB TO CHINA. curiosity, out it has been materially injured by an at- tempt to adorn and beautify it by artificial works. It contains a bust of the celebrated man who has given it a name that it will probably bear to the end of time. In connection with this it might be proper to observe that after he left Macao, Camoen and his manuscript poems were both singularly and providentially preserved from unmerited oblivion. The vessel in which he sailed from Macao, was wrecked in the Chinese Sea ; fortunately, liowever, not a great distance from the shore. When it appeared evident that the vessel was lost, and there being no other means cf saving himself, forgetting every thing else as comparatively worthless, he seized his man- yscript in one hand, and cast himself into the sea. Presently, the few who had gained the shore before him, discovered Camoen struggling in the briny element, and bearing in one hand above the surface of the agi- tated waters, the poem that was destined to give him an earthly immortality. At length a fortunate wave came to his assistance, and he was borne in triumph to the shore, happy that, with the loss of his wealth, he had saved what he esteemed of infinitely more value, the instrument which was destined to rttach to his memory an enviable and enduring fame. There are also a number of eminences in and about the place, which overlook the entire town and harbor, and which are very strongly fortified. Some of the guns by which the battlements are mounted, are of astonishing calibre, and bear date as ancient as 1625. From the hill on which the " Central Fort " is built, the vierv oi the city, harbor, roads, and the adjacent islands, is sufficiently interesting to pay one for the labor of climbii.^ to its summit. From this spot was pointed out to us the precise place where the English and Chi- nese embassadors signed the preliminaries of peace at the conclusion of the late war. On the ramparts of the " Central Fort " I counted fifty of the engines of death ••eady to pour ruin upon invading foes. Having visited every thing of interest in and around the city of Macao, we prepared to take our leave; de I VOYAOB TO CHINA. 28) 11- at the ith '1 siring tc spend as nany days in Canton before embark ing for the United States, as we possibly could. We had received a pressing invitation from Dr. Devan, a missionary of the Baptist Board, resident in Canton, to make his house our home so long as we desired to re- main in the place. Accordingly, on Wednesday, the 7th of January, accompanied by Mrs. Hooper, one of our fellow passengers on the Leland, we embarked on a " fast boat," and with a fresh breeze proceeded up the Canton river. These " fast boats " are always manned by Chinese, and, though differing from any other water craft which I have seen in any other part of the world, are quite comfortable for the conveyance of passengers; and as they are propelled by oars when the wind does not serve, they usually perform their passages with considerable ilispatch; passengers always furnishing themselves with bed and board. It was near sundown when we left the Grand Prior, and before we had proceeded far, darkness had shut from our view all surrounding objects, and reposing on the beds we had spread for our temporary use, we fell asleep, and the next ramming found ourselves above the Bogue, or Bocca Tigris, and gliding along past the vil- lages, paddy fields, and Pagodas, by which the banks of the river are adorned. Before passing Whampoa, we stopped a few moments along side the Leland, which had already commenced receiving her cargo, and leaving some of our baggage on board, we proceeded on through the multitude ot boats which thronged the river, and which seemed to multiply in a ten-fold proportion as we approximated the "Provincial City." It was nearly dark when we arrived off the place of landing, and we found the wharf so thronged with boats that it was im- possible for us to approach it nearer than fifty yards. We began to fear that we should be under the necessity of spending the night on the boat ; no very comfortable prospect in vie\fr of the piratical propensities of the thousands by which we were surrounded. And as for confusion, Babel itself could n:>t have presented a worse '0 282 VOYAGE TO CHINA. K f State. However, I hastened to dispatch a short note to Dr. Devan, by one of the officers of the boat, and for- tunately the note found him. At eight o'clock he and his most amiable wife gave us a hearty welcome at their house, which is situated in one of the densest portions of the suburbs of the great city of Canton, and on one of the principal avenues leading to one of the gates of the city proper. Here we are then, brought by a succession of favora- ble providences, and placed in the midst of the great and wonderful city of Canton. Every thing surrounding us is new and striking. The people, the costume, the buildings, the streets, and every thing the eye beholds, present an aspect totally diflerent from any thing exist- mg in any other portion of the world; and to give a minute and intelligible description of the almost infinite variety which this one city presents to the view of the stranger, if it were possible to accomplish it, would re- quire volumes, and cannot therefore be expected in this journal. It will be impossible even to carry out the design of the traveler to Rome,*who observed that he should "give a description of the Rome which he saw;*' but it must suffice the reader to be introduced to a few subjects important to be understood, and interesting to contemplate relating to the celebrated city of Canton. The Chinese write the name of their city, Kwang- tung Sang Ching, " chief city of the province of Kwang- tung," but in conversation they usually call it " Sang Ching," the " Provincial City." Doubtless Canton is a corruption of Kwangtung. This city is situated on the north side of the Choo Keang, or Pearl river, and about sixty miles from the great sea. It is in the twenty- third degree of north latitude, and one hundred and thirteenth east longiludc from Greenwich. The scenery around the city, though beautiful, and to some extent diversified, presents nothing bold or roman- tic. On the north and north-east sides, distant a few niiles, may be seen a range of hills or mountains, but in every other direction the prospect is unobscured. The rivers, channels and canals, are very numerous, VOVAOE TO CHINA). 283 and arc covered with a vast variety of boats, which are continually passing to and from the neighboring towns and villages. Southward the water covers nearly one- fourth of the whole surface. Paddy fields and gardens occupy the low lands, and occasionally may be seen little hills and groves of trees rising here and there, to diver- sify the scene. Canton is one of the most ancient cities in the world, at least among those that have survived the revolutions of time. We have pretty satisfactory evidence that it existed several hundred years before the Christian era, and, according to Chinese classics, one of the ancient emperors, four thousand years ago, commanded one of his ministers to repair to the southern country, and govern the city, which was then called the Splendid Capital, and the country surrounding it. If this be true, a large city occupied the site of the present city of Canton more than one hundred and fifty years before the time of Abraham. The city of Canton may be r.onsidered as divided into two parts; the city proper, or that portion within the walls, and the portion without the walls, or the suburbs, which differs in its buildings, s reets and extent of popu- lation, very little from that within the walls. That part of the city enclosed by a wall is built nearly in the form of a square, and is divided into two parts by a wall running from east to west. The northern, which is the largest part, is called the old city, and the southern, the new city. The entire circuit of the wall, including both divisions of the city within, is variously estimated at fron :ix to eight Eng- lish miles. The walls rise nearly perpendicularly, and vary in height from twenty-five to forty feel.. They are about twenty feet thick, and are composed of stone and brick. A line of battlements is r'used on the top of the walls at intervals ot a few fr A around the whole city. Leading through the outsif^ wall are twelve gates bearing different names, some of / fiich are very signifi- cant : Wooseen Mun is " the ^ ite o the five genii." Yunglsing Mun jv ' the ^n*e ol ^iU ual purity." This 884 VOYAGE TO CHINA. is the gate that leads to the place where criminals are publicly decapitated. Yungan Mun is ''the gate of <»ternal rest." At each of the gates a few soldiers are stationed to watch them by day, and close and guard them by night. The principal part of the suburbs are situated on the south and west sides of the city. They are much less extensive on the east than on the west; and on the north there are very few buildings, owing probably to the fact that the city proper in that direction extends on to the sides of a range of hills. This fact is poetically -ex- pressed by a Chinese writer, who observes that, on the north " the city ^-osts on the brow of a hill." It is said by good authority that there are from six hundred to a thousand streets in the city of Canton. Some of them are long, but most of them are short and crooked. The broadest street in Canton is sixteen feet wide, and there are hundreds not more than two feet. These are all flagged with stones, mostly krge granite slabs. It will be impossible to give any idea of the immense motley crowd that daily throngs these narrow lanes. The stout, half-naked, vociferating coolies, bearing every description of merchandise on their backs, the noisy sedan-bearers, together with the numerous travelers, .retailers, pedlars, barbers, tinkers, beggars. &;c., presents a scene before the spectator which puts all his powers of description at defiance. In the suburbs, near the south-west corner of the city, are situated the foreign factories, of which there are thirteen. They occupy a plot of ground extending sixty rods from east to west, and forty from north to south. The factories present a very firm and substantial appearance, being but two stories high, and with the exception of two narrow streets, forming one solid block, each factory extending in length, the whole breadth of the block. They are ownod by the Chinese Hong merchants, and are occupied by the Dutch, Eng- lish, Swedes, Americans, French and Danes. The diflferent factories may be distinguished by the Hags of ■nBMMNMMMMnwmi TOTAOB TO CHINA. 285 their rospecti^ j nations, which constantly wave over Ihem. In the afternoon of Friday, the 9th, Dr. Devan pro- posed to conduct Mrs. H. and myself to those parts of the city where it was safe for ladies to go, with which we readily acquiesced, as we desired to learn as much as we possibly could concerning one of the great cities of the Celestial Empire. It is but a short time since foreign females have been allowed to approach nearer to the city of Canton than Macao. The ladies are indebted to the bloody gallantry of British soldiers, for the privilege of walking the crowded streets of this wonderful city. But even now, though the recent trea- ties with other nations provide for such a privilege, yet a very large portion of the wealthy Chinese population are violently opposed to foreigners penetrating far into the city, especially to pass through the gates. Notwith- standing this, according to arrangement, we set off on our tour, first taking the hongs and the factories, where the foreign merchants, and the missionaries of the A. B. C. F. M. reside. After calling on some of the latter we continued on some half mile or more direct towards one of the gates opening into that part of the city, yet loo sacred to be polluted by the feet of barbarians. As we penetrated farther and farther into the city, beyond the common walks of foreigners, it was astonishing to us to observe the great curiosity that was excited among the countless multitudes of Chinese through which we passed, by the appearance of a foreign lady walking by the side of a gentleman, in the thronged avenue, where never a Chinese lady is allowed to go except as carried by her servants, inclosed in her palanquin. We could not stop for a single moment for fear of being so thronged as not to be able to extricate ourselves, but found it necessary to urge ourselves onward as fast as we possibly could walk, while the excited mass poured after us in wild confusion, and every now and then a stalwart form rushing through the crowd, would thrust himself before us for the purpose of getting one fail 366 VOYAGE TO CHINA. peep into the face of a foreign lady before fhe iiad passed beyond their reach. At length we came to what Dr. Devan told us wag the gate of the city proper, but we did not dare to enter it, nor even to stop near it, such was the excitement that prevailed wherever we appeared ; but casting a passing look within the walls, we continued walking for an hour, until we had explored a number of the princi- pal streets, and at almost every step we were saluted by the name of " Fan-qui," (barbarian), and some times Dr. Devan told us they would call us " evil spirits." Before closing our perambulations, we visited the Ningpoo Exchange, which is a famous building, so far up in the city that strangers- seldom visit it. It contains almost countless apartments, and at every turn and corner is placed a brazen idol before which the smoke of burning incense is continually rising. In this Exchange a vast amount of business is performed by commercial men from all parts of China. Impressed with the novelty of every thing we had witnessed, we returned to Dr. De van's in safety, and on Saturday, the 10th, found ourselves prepared to visit the celebrated Temple of Honan. This most popular heathen temple in the Province of Kwangtung, is situated on the opposite side of the Choo-keang river from Canton. Accompanied by our friends. Dr. and Mrs. Devan, and a Chinese interpreter, we engaged a boatman to row us across the river to this splendid " Jos-house " of the Chinese. On entering the temple and casting an eye around upon the objects within, here, said I, idolatry must appear in its most magnificent aspects. An we entered the gateway lead- ing to the inner court, there were two colossal figures, images of deified warriors, stationed, one on the right and the other on the left, to guard the entrance to the sacred palaces. Further on we came to the palace of the "four great celestial kings," images of ancient heroes. Still further on we were conducted along i broad pathway to " the great powerful palace." Enter . U- p- 1. I t- ■4v VOYAGE TO CHINA. 287 ing this we found ourselves in the presence of " the three precious Budhas," three stately and niagniQcent images representing the past, the present, and the future Budha. The hall or palace where these images are placed, is one hundred feet square, and contains nume- rous other images of deified heroes, real or imaginary, before which altars are erected and incense is kept constantly burning. The temple is vast, and the build- ings embraced within the sacred inclosures arc numerous, and contain large numbers of Chinese gods. Some of* the idols are truly splendid specimens of the works of art, and as they are arranged in perfect order arou.nd the walls of their respective and spacious halls, all of bronze work, and measuring from eight to twenty feet in height, they present a very imposing appearance. In addition to these shining images, there were several rough stones pointed out to us as being numbered with Chinese gods. We were led by our conductor to the apartments containing the sacred hogs and geese, and were assured that it was an uncommon privilege for strangers to be allowed to behold these squalling and grunting divinities. In " the great and powerful palace, " which contains " the three precious Budhas." is hung a very large brass bell, which is used by the priests at the hour of worship to wake up the slumbering deities and to call their atten- tion to the oblations of their devotees. One of the party, taking hold of the huge tongue of the bell, drew it up at one side and let it fall back against the other with such force as to cause the whole temple to ring with its vibrations. Some of the priests started back as with fear, but so soon as the sound had died away they came forward and reproached us for such a gross violation of the sanctity of the place. In addition to this we were guiity of another sacrilegious act in taking some of the incense which was smoking before the idols, and bring- ing it away with us ; much, however, to the diversion of our Chinese attendants. As it was not the hour of worship we did not witness the devotions of the priests. but ascertained that ajt five o'clock^ p. m., every day 288 VOYAGE TO CHINA. ■.^1 ;,' • ri they celebrate their vespers in the palace of the precious Budhas. Parallel with each other on the right and left, are long fines of apartments, one of which is a printing office, and others are used as cells for priests, stalls for pigs and fowls, a retreat for " the king of hades," the chief priest's room, a dining hall, a kitchen, &c., and beyond these is a spacious garden, at the extremity of which there is a mausoleum wherein the ashes of burnt priests 'once a year are deposited. Here also was pointed out to us a furnace wherein the bodies of dead priests are burned, and a little cell where the jars containing their ashes are kept until the time for depositing them in the mausoleum arrives. We ascertained that there were connected with this one heathen temple nearly two hundred priests ; and judging from the immense expense of sustaining this establishment, we could but come to the conclusion that it costs China more to support idolatry than all Christen- dom pays to propagate the Gospel of the Son of God. In connection with this it may be proper to subjoin a brief history of the temple of Honan as given by the Chinese, and which has been furnished in English by Dr Bridgoman of Canton : " It was originally a private garden ; but afterwards, several hundred years ago, a priest named Cheyue, built up an establishment which he called * the temple of ten thousand autumns,' and dedi- cated it to Budha. It remained an obscure place, how- ever, until about a. d. 1600, when a priest of eminent devotion, with his pupil Ahtsze^ together with a concur- rence of extraordinary circumstances, raised it to its present magnificence. In the reign of Kanghe, and as late as a. d. 1700, the province of Canton was not fully subjugated ; and a son-in-law of the emperor was sent hither to bring the whole country under his father's sway. This he accomplished, received the title of * Pingnan-wang, king of the subjugated South,' and took up his head quarters in the temple of Honan. Therft were then thirteen villages on the island, which he had; orders to exterminate for their opposition to th^ imperial - ' t • hit VOVAOE TO CHINA. 289 force*. Jwat before carrying into effect this order, the king, Pingnan, a blood-thirsty man, cast iiis eyes on Ahtsze, a fat happy priest, and remarited that if ho Hved on vegetable diet he couid not be so fat ; he must be u hypocrite, and should be punished with death. He drew his sword to execute with his own hand the sen- tence ; but his arm suddenly stiH'encd, and he was stopped from his purpose. That night a divine person appeared to him in a dream, and assured him that Ahtsze was a holy man, adding, * you must not unjustly kill him.' Next morning the king presented himself before Ahtsze, confe^ssed his crime, and his arm was immediately restored. He then did obeisance to the priest, and took hirfi for his tutor and guide ; and morning and c veiling the king waited on the priest as his servant " The inhabitants of the thirteen villages now heard of this miracle, and solicited the priest to intercede in their behalf, that they might be rescued from the sentence of extermination. The priest interceded, and the king listened, answering thus : * I have received an imperial order to exterminate these rebels, but since you, my master, say they now submit, be it so ; I must, however, send the troops round to the several villages, before I can report to the emperor ; I will do this, and then beg that they may bo «pared.' The king fulHlied his promise, and the villages were saved. Their grati- tude to the priest was unbounded ; and estates, and incense, and money, were poured in upon him. The king, also, persuaded his onicers to make donations to the temple, and it became affluent from that day. " The t-emple had then no hail for celestial kings, and *t the outer gate there was a pool belonging to a rich iiian who refused to sell it, although Ahtsze ofTered him a large cxjmpensation. The king, conversing with the priest one day, said, ' this temple is deficient, for it has no hall for the celestial kings. The priest replied, *a terrestrial king, please your highness, is the proper per- son to rear a pavilion to the celestial kings.' The king took the hint, and seized on the pool of the rich man, who waa now very glad to present it without compcn- '? '•i^,'.! 200 VOVAOe TO CHINA. 11' Mi Ration ; and lie ^ave conrimand, moreover, that a pavilion aliould be complctud in litteen days ; but at the priest'n itttereession, the workmen were allowed one month to finish it ; and by laboring diligently night and day, they accomplished it in that time." Sucn i« the history of the temple of Honan, which is said to be the largest and best endowed establishment of the leind in this part of China. The reader can form some idea of the extent of this lemple when he is informed that its buildinprs rnd gar- dens occupy from eight to ten English acres Oi ground. We ?eft this gloomy scene not with' t indulging the hope that the time would come when a churcn of the living God would supplant this temple of Budha, and the great bell be used to call devout worshipers to the house of prayer. Sunday, 11th. Attended worship at the house of Rev. Dr. Parker, in the morning, and heard a good ser- mon by the Rev. Mr. Wood, of the Episcopal church. This gentleman re'iently came from the United Stales as a missionary to the Chinese, but, for reasons doubtless satisfactory to himself, he returns home after a residence of two months. Dr. Parker, in addition to his missionary work, super- intends the English service, which is conducted at his own house every Sabbath day. At two o'clock, p. M., attended Chinese service at Dr. Parker's hospital, and heard a celebrated Chinese preacher deliver a discourse in the native language. This man has officiated as a kind of evangelist among the Chinese for several years, and from his ardent zeal, and continued sufferings in his work, has given evidence of great sincerity. He has been violeiitly persecuted by his countrymen at different times, and once was under the necessity of flying his country to save his life. However, at the present time, he travels wherever he pleases, and preaches without molestation. At three o'clock, attended Chinese service with Dr. Devan, in one of the densest portions of the city. The place where the Doctor preaches he calls the '* Dispensa* ^i^m^isiimmmtmm VOYAGE TG CHINA. ttOl tory." It is about twelve feet square ; opens at one side to the street, which is constantly thronged with passers by Occasionally one is attracted by the voice of the preacher, and either stops in the street, or walks into the dispen- sat V, and listens a short time. Very few, however, give tni , attention to a whole discourse. The utmotit confusion prevailed in front of the dispensatory, or pren'^'hinp'-place, M'hile, but from six to ten occupied the be ries duripf^ service, and these were mostly in the pay of tliO missionary, as assistant preachers, teachers, or ser ants. Though an ardent friend of the missionary cauje, I could but think that, if the labors bestowed here were productive of much good, it would certainly be against all human probability. Dr. Devan, and all other missionaries here, are in the habit of distributing fptsta- ments and other religious books, at the conclusion of divine service. The missionaries themselves, from the difficulty of acquiring the language, preach but little, but are in the habit of employing Chinese assistants. Doubtless some credit is to be given for the genuineness of the conver- sion, and the sincerity of some of these Chinese assistants; but from the best information I have been able to obtain, I am led to the conclusion that, in China, as well as in some other heathen countries, in nine cases out of ten, the converts, in identifying themselves with -the mission- aries, are governed mainly by motives of self interest. And, indeed, nearly all of them receive pay from the different churches to which they belong. They are gene- rally hired as preachers, teachers, tract distributors, or servants, and generally relapse into their former habits on being dismissed from their employment. In view of these things, it is not strange that visitors, and the mer- chants that reside at Canton, generally, express it as their opinion that the missionary labor performed among the Chinese, is entirely useless. But persons forming such an opinion, are generally ignorant of that principle which stimulates the servant of God to sow his seed in the morning, and in the evening not to withhold his hand namely, that faith which believes, even against hope. P«W"WIP"^ 292 VOYAGE TO CHINA. H Monday, 12th. "We resumed our exploration of the city of Canton. Strangers have not the freedom of the city, though there is much more liberty now than formerly. However, up to the present time, foreigners venturing too far up into the city, are frequently robbed, and ratanned through the streets. The recent treaties which other nations have made with China since the late war, provided that the city gates should be thrown open to foreigners, but as yet the people of Canton are violently opposed to such a desecration of their ancient customs. Keying, the imperial commissioner and go- vernor general of the province of Kwangtung, caused a proclamation to be posted up in the city, on the night ot the 1 2th, informing the people that the time had come when the conditions of the treatv in reference to the freedom of the city, must be fulfilled, and cautioning the people against molesting any foreigners that were disposed to enter within the walls. But the populace, supported by a large majority of the wealthy inhabitants of the city, on discovering the proclamation on the morning of the 13th, tore it down with great violence, rent it in pieces, and stamped it in the mud. Another proclamation, purporting to be from the wealthy and virtuous citizens of Canton, was put up in its place, which threatened death to any foreigner who should dare to enter within the gates. Notwithstanding the excite- ment which these opposing proclamations produced, we resolved to improve the short time we had to stay, in seeing whatever was interesting, within the undi. puted range of the barbarians. Tuesday, 13th. Visited the " Fatee," or flower-gar- den, on the opposite side of the river, and above the temple of Honan. This is v-^ most magnificent garden, and the plants are all grown in earthern pots. Here are almost an infinite variety of flowers, and several kinds of oranges, which are also grow :• in pots, and which Hne the different alleys, and tempt the visitor to violate the rules of the garden, by disburdening the loaded plants of some of their golden fruit. The Chinese, better than any other nation, perhaps, under '^;::^-^ ■wj^isuj>^PF«wr" mm^mmmmm{iimm VOYAGE TO CHINA. 293 Stand the art of dwarfing trees and plants, and causinc them to grow in any shape they choose. Here may be seen orange trees from one foot to three feet high, standhig in large earthern pots, and^ so filled with fruit that every expedient possible is entered into to prevent them from breaking down. Here, also, is a shrub, in appearance similar to the hawthorn, which the Chinese cause to grow in the exact shape of a pagoda, a junk, an elephant, a bird, or any thing else, according as their fancy leads them. Nothing can exceed the regularity and beauty of the Fatee, or flower-garden ; and it was some hours after we entered, before we were able to break away from the charm which the multiflorous productions of this delightful garden cast around us. Leaving this garden, which the Ingenuity of the Chinese has rendered so interesting, we re-crossed the Chookeang, and visited the palace of Houqua, situated about two miles above the city of Canton, The house is splendid, purely Chinese, the furniture magnificent, and the walls of the rooms adorned with fine Chinese paintings. It was in this house where all the recent treaties with other nations were signed. Wednesday, 14th. Called on Drs. Bridgeman and J*arker, who are missionaries of the American Board. The latter has accepted an appointment under the United States' government, as Chinese interpreter, with a salary of three thousand dollars per akmum. He has been in China twelve years; has established a hospital for the ben- efit of the Chinese, and from almost innumerable and suc- cessful surgical operations, has earned an enviable repu tation in his adopted country. With the former I had* considerable conversation concerning the success of missionf.ry opeiations in China, and found him to be any thing but sanguine in his expectations, but hoping to see the results of his labors after many days. He is not one of those fiery spirits, who, from the excitement of the moment, are in the habit of blazing forth their high v.'ronghl accounts of the work of God in heathen lands, which frequently recoil back upon their authors, and the cause they are designed to represent, much to the injury 204 VOYAGE TO CHINA. ,,, t, '1 ! '■.i':.l ■',11 I i ! of both, but he appears to take a sober, candid view of the great work in which he is engaged, and realizes the fearful responsibility that rests upon him. He has obtained considerable celebrity by publishing several "• important Chinese works. In the evening called on Dr. Ball, who is likewise a missionary of the American Board, and appears to be much devoted to his work. Thursday, 15th. Explored various parts of the city and found the Chinese very much excited on account of the proclamation of Keying, in which he ordered that the gates of Canton, which had been closed for ages, should, for the first time, be opened to the barba- rians of Europe and America. There seemed to be a great commotion among the populace, and it was anticipated by the foreigners that the night would not pass away without some outrage. Those who are opposed to the order of the governor call themselves "patriots," and declare that the barba- rians shall not enter their city gates, but the man that dares to attempt to pass the sacred inclosure, shall lose his head. At midnight a portion of the old city was illuminated by the burning of the house of the mayor. A mob of more than two thousand gathered around the house of this functionary with the design of consuming him and his property together. Leaving the house through a private passage, he escaped their fury, and in a short time all that remained of his princely mansion was a heap of smouldering ruins. Friday, 16th. The excitement continued to rise, and early in the morning the foreign factories, particularly those occupied by the English, were invested by vast throngs of the angry Chinese, and the English were hourly expecting an attack. What contributed to in- crease the excitement was, the expected arrival of an English steamboat from Hong Kong, to receive the last payment of the indemnity. The whole amount of the indemnity was twenty millions of dollars, and this last payment was two millions. The patriots declare that it shall not be paid, and that if the authorities attempt to convey it out of the city, they wiH seize upon the m'"ney I .1.1 . vmi^itmiif qpipni VOYAGE TO CHINA. S95 and bum down the English factories. I was in the factories a number of times during the day, and found tiie people preparing for a vigorous defence, expecting that they would be attacked the following night, and more so in consequence of the approach of the Chinese new-year, when the people are exceedingly desirous to obtain money, and always become greatly excited. About noon we received a letter from the gentlemen to whom the Leland was consigned, (Wetmore & Co.), advising us, as our vessel would be ready for sea Satur- day evening, to join her without delay, for fear an. immediate outbreak would greatly endanger, if not entirely close the communication between Canton and Whampoa, where our vessel lay. With much effort, in the midst of great excitement, we succeeded in getting ready to leave at sundown, and consequently we had- the pleasure of a night-excursion on the Chookeang from Canton to Whampoa, the distance of twelve miles. Though there is considerable danger in navigating these waters in the night time from thieves and pirates, which here abound in vast numbers, yet, at ten o'clock we arrived along side the Leland without accident, and, though we were literally thrust out of the city, yet we were glad to find ourselves once more on board the vessel destmed to convey us to our native land. Sunday, 18th. Had an engagement to preach on board the Rainbow that had just arrived from New York ; but was prevented from going on account of the rain. When vessels are ready for sea, the captains never wait for Monday ; consequently in the afternoon our ship weighed anchor, and dropped down the river a few miles ; but at dark, again came to anchor to await the arrival of Mr. Finlay from Canton. About midnight Mr. Finlay arrived, and reported that the excitement still continued at Canton, and that the foreigners were hourly expecting a furious outbreak ; but we congratu- lated ourselves, that before it took place we should be "far away on the billows." Monday, 19th. Before a fine breeze we siiled down 2m VOYAGE TO CHINA. the Canton river, passing the United States frigate Vincennes, and the line-of-battle ship Cohimbus. These vessels have recently arrived in China, and the com- manding olficcr. Commodore Biddle, is authorized, on tiie part of the United States, to act as minister to the Chinese government. These vessels are both moving up the river for the purpose of being ready to act in defence of any American interests which may be in- volved in the insurrectional movements at Canton. It is also said that Gov. Daviesy in case of any outbreak, wiil send the soldiers who are quartered at Hong Hong, up the river, to assist the Chinese authorities against the insurgents. Captain Skillington, of the Leland, having discharged his steward and cook, we found it necessary to return to Hong Kong, for the purpose of s.«pplying their places. Accordingly, at six o'clock, p. iw., we cast anchor again in the bay of Hong Kong, about four miles from shore. It was impossible for the captain to accomplish his objects here without spending the whole of Tuesday^ and this gave us an opportunity to take a more formal leave of our newly made friends in this place. Before taking our final 'departure from tlie coast of the Celestial Empire, it will be proper to make some observations concerning a few things which have not yet been exhibited, but which cannot fail to strike the foreigner with considerable interest. The first I shall mention is the antiquated appearance of every thing that presents itself. While the nations of Europe and Aoierica arc moving onward from one improvement to another, with unexampled celerity, and attracting universal admiration as well as conferring incalculable good upon the world, the Chinese seldom advance a step beyond the customs, habits and fashions which characterized their remotest ancestors ; and they have been equally slow in adopting any of the usage? and improvements of "distant foreigners." Architect ure, agriculture, costume, and all the arts and sciences remain in China, as the lawyers say, " in statu qua •'' ^mnmt^nmfi^ VOYAGK TO CHINA. 201 and this inertia of every tiling is , » »>nly a prominent cliaracteristic of tiie Ciiinesej but constitutes a subject in wiiich they glory. Another thing which striices the foreigner is tho astonishing contrariety to what he has been taught as proper, which appears in the habits and occupations of the Chinese. We have considered the right, as the place of honor, but ihe Chinese give precedence to the left. Black is considered by the nations of the west as the appropriate badge of mourning, but in the estimation of the Chinese, there is nothing so proper as white. The Chinese do not number the cardinal points in our order, but always mention the south before the north, and the west before the east ; thus, — south, north, west and east. And instead of saying north-west, south-west, as we do, they say west-north, west-south, &c. The compass of the Chinese, instead of pointing to the norths is so constructed as to point to the south. This contra riety appears in many other particulars, and the fact of its existence brings one to the conclusion that we are not to estimate the Chinese by the criterion of European taste and usage. A third subject of interest to foreigners on entering the cities of China, is the numerous manufactories and trades in operation, wherever he goes. Properly speak ing, there is no machinery in the country ; consequently no such extensive manufacturing establishments as in Europe and America. In consequence of the absence of all kinds of machinery calculated to lessen the amount of manual labor, the number of hands employed in carrying forward the different trades is truly immense A great proportion of the manufacturing business re- quired to supply the commercial houses of Canton, i9 performed at Fuhshan, a large town situated a few miles westward. Still, the amount accomplished in Canton, is by no means inconsiderable. There are from fifteen to twenty thousand persons engaged in Canton in weaving silk ; fifty thousand in manufacturing cloth of different kinds ; five thousand shoemakers ; from seven thousand 13 WBP 298 VOYAGE TO CHINA. to ten thousand barbers, besides an unnumbered mu tude who work in wood, brass, iron, stone, and vario. other materials, too numerous to mention. Those who engage in each oi" these respective occi pations, form a separate community, — each communit iiaving its own laws and regulations to control theii business. On ascending the Chookeang river from Macao to Canton, nothing interests the foreigner so much as the vast number and almost endless variety of boats by which he is constantly surrounded ; every boat forming a habitation for one family, or more, according to its dimensions and the wealth of the occupants. There are officers appointed by the government to regulate and control this portion of the inhabitants ; consequently all the boats, of the various sizes and descriptions which are seen here, are registered. The number adjacent and belonging to the city of Canton is eighty-four thou- sand. A large proportion of these are what the Chinese call Tankea (egg-house) boats. These are very small, varying from ten to fifteen feet long, and from four to six feet broad. In large coops lashed to the outside of these boats, are reared large broods of ducks and chick- ens, designed for the city markets, while within them whole families live and die. These, together with the passage boats, ferry boats, canal boats, pleasure boats, cruisers, &c., complete the list of these floating habita- tions, and constitute a permanent dwelling place fgr a population of three hundred thousand souls I Another subject of interest to the stranger visiting China, is found in the piratical character of many of the Chinese inhabiting the numerous islands, which consti- tute an extensive archipelago along the coast of the Chinese sea. Among these islands, piracies and rob- beries are of frequent occurrence. During our stay at Canton, an English vessel was attacked, almost within hailing distance of Macao. The pirates boarded her, after having cleared the decks of her crew, by killing one and causing the others to take refuge in the hold ^fw^'im^mm^m^mif^ VOYAGE TO CHINA. 299 and rifling her of all that would be valuable to them, nnade their escape. These pirates often contibine in large numbers, and attack large commercial houses ; nor are they discriminating, but fall alike upon those belonging both to Chinese and foreigners. The school house belonging to the Morrison Education Society, situated on Morrison Hill, and occupied by Rev. S. R. Brown and family, was, a short time ago, captured by a band of them in the night, the family escaping from one side, while the robbers were entering on the other. They were in possession of the house for several hours, and finally escaped with their booty to their island fastnesses. Soon after this occurrence they made an attempt upon an English house situated at the west end of the city of Victoria, Prepared with their scaling ladders, as their habit was, they mounted the building in large numbers, and while in the act of removing the tiling so that they could descend into the building, a charge of grape from a six pounder mounted on a neighboring eminence, was poured into them, and two of their number rolled like logs from the roof to the ground, and the remainder took to iHight CI . PTER XV. Vayags Trom Hong Kong to New York — Chinese Sea — Islands — Strait of Sasper — Java Sea — Strait of Sunda — Perilous condition of the Leland — Lo«s of cable and anchor — Ship saved — Sumatra and Java — Pulo Bassa — Malaya — Indian Ocean — Cape of Good Hope — Cast aochor in Table Bay — Caper Town — Colony — Vineyards — Produce — Missionary labor— The responsibility of churches — Difficulty on board — Captain fined — His character — Tlw aupercargo — Mrs. Hooper — Adieu to Africa — Cleansing the ship — Man overboard — Splendid eclipss of the sun — Reflections — The Gulf stream — Coast of New Jersey — New York. On Wednesday morning, the 21st of January, at four o'clock, our sails were again spread to the breeze, and bidding adie'i to the granite mountains of the Celestial Empire, wc shaped our course towards the Cape of Good Hope. We had a remarkably pleasant time in sailing down the Chinese Sea, though this is reported as the most dangerous navigation in the world. Multitudes of vessels, through the effects of the ty-phongs, have either been foundered in this sea, or dashed to pieces on some of the numerous shoals with whicn these waters abound. But happily for us, this is not the season of ty- phongs, but the north-east monsoon blows steadily, in a seven knot breeze, and renders the sailing most de- lightful. We made several islands on our passage down the sea, some of which are inhabited by Malays. The islands appeared beautiful, being mostly covered with verdure ; and surrounded by the watery waste, resem- bled the oasis of the Arabian desert. Arriving at the entrance of the Strait of Gasper ic the evening, we were obliged to come to anchor, ar*u wait for the light of morning to conduct us through it. ThiB strait ppi^nects ihQ Chinese with the Java Sea, and TO NEW YORK. 301 1? full of rocks and shoals, which render the navigation 4angerou8, especially in the night. It was on a rock in this strait, where the Aloesta, an English frigate, was wrecked, with Lord Amherst on board. The vessel was a total loss, but the people took to the boats, and all succeeded in 'crossing the Java Sea to Batavia, on the island of Java, the distance of three hundred miles. In passing through the strait we were not conscious of a very great proximity to danger, but lelighted ourselves with the beautiful prospect presented by the numerous islands, rocks, and birds upon the wing, by which the scenery was diversified. A line breeze wafted us quickly across the Java Sea, and on Sunday, the first of February, we entered the strait of Sunda. Having a fair wind, we attempted to run directly through, though the captain was aware that we would have to contend with counter currents. Sudfjenly the wind left us, and we found ourselves drifting broad side on to an island which was but a little distance from us. Before the men could get the anchor ready for letting go, such was the rapidity of the current, that we had approached within a few rods of the shore, and some of us expected every moment that the vessel would strike, as she was carried towards the point of the island at the rate of five knots. Our only hope was in the anchor, which fortunately was let go just in time to prevent the vessel from running aground. Chain was " paid out " freely, to prevent the anchor from dragging, and when we found that the anchor held, and had time to view the place, the captain observed that we might think ourselves well off if we got away from that spot by losing our anchor and cable. The current dashed past us with astonishing force, and would have carried us to inevitable destruction, if our anchor had not held us fast. Though the weather was calm and pleasant, we passed here an uncomfortable night, in consequence of our dangerous position. We were within a stone's cast of the shore, and as our vessel swung to the current, it ^•ds but a short distance from our stern to where th» 303 ▼ OVAGB FROM IIONQ KOyO water rushed furiously on to rocks which were imbed- ded below the surface, and formed eddies and whirlpools truly frightful to contemplate. But our cable was strong, and our anchor held firm, so that on the following morning we had changed our position but a few rods, the current having caused the anchor to drag but a short distance towards the land. Happily for us, a breeze sprung up on Monday, quartering from the shore, and against the current ; but, though thus favored, we did not dare to raise the anchor ; consequently, a spying was fixed upon it, and it was determined to make all sail, slip the cable, and leave the anchor where it lay. This appeared to be the only alternative, and, at all events, it succeeded. The vessel, after trembling a few moments against the current, began gradually to move before the freshening breeze, and as we turned partly across the current to get away from the land, the spring cable snapped asunder, and we were quickly borne by the timely breeze to a safe distance from our dangerous moorings. Again in the centre of the strait of Sunda, steering our course towards the island of Pulo Bassa, which lay in sight, we felt called upon to offer up a tribute of thanksgiving to that merciful Providence who had de- livered us from the imminent danger by which we had been surrounded. Navigators, in passing through the strait of Sunda, have to guard against shoals, rocks and currents ; and often head winds detain vessels here for many days before they can get through. At the entrance of the strait, we overtook two English vessels, which ap- peared to be feeling their way along, with the utmost care. One of them came to anchor near the islands called the Twin Sisters, and while we lay in our dan- ferous position, she weighed anchor, and showed us her Inglish colors as she passed. This strait divides the islands of Sumatra and Java. The former is inhabited by Malays, and is the scene where the missionaries, Lyman and Monson, met their tragical death. The coast is low and flat in some places. TO NEW YOKl. S03 in others, hilly. The island presents the appearance of great fertility. Java presents a more uneven surface, and, as seen from the strait, does not appear so fertile. The Dutch are its possessors. Batavia and Algier arc places of conside- rable importance. This island is well situated for commerce, and, but for its deathly climate, it would doubtless prosper more rapidly. Beside these, are several small islands about the strait, which altogether present a very agreeable prospect. As the wind did nol^'avor us for clearing Java Head, on the second, we put in towards Sumatra, and came to anchor under the lee of Pulo Bassa, which is a high circular island, and, with two or three other islands of the same character, and the highlands on the island of Sumatra, forms a good shelter from the north-west winds. On coming to anchor, the wind, which had been hardly sufficient to enable us to gain our harbor, entirely died away ; and, as the sea was smooth, we were here permitted to spend a quiet night, which is a great luxury at sea. The islands c^round us were inhabited by Malays, a number of whom c?me off with shells, turtles, banannas, &c., to trade with us. We purchased all they brought, and found that money was the object of their principal desire, and that they well understood its value. Those that came to us were very brown, dwarfish and filthy objects, and their teeth were as black as ebony, occa- sioned, probably, by their use of beetle-nuts, as an article of food. On the morning of the 3rd of February, we weighed anchor, and were soon out of sight of land, amidst the solitudes of the Indian ocean. For a few of the first days, after leaving the islr.nds, we made but slow progress, on account of baffling winds. On the fourth day, however, we secured the south-east trade, which continued, with little variation, until we approached the Cape of Good Hope. On our leaving China, it was the intention of Mr. Finlay the supercargo, to stop at St, Helena, to procure ^:J 804 VOV'.wB PRGM IIONO KONQ water and fresh provisions ; but, through the reconi- mendation of the captain, it was finally determined to stop at Cape Town. Consequently, on approaching the lati- tude of the Cape, we hauled up towards land, and the eastern coast of Africa, with its high mountains and barren sands, appeared on our right, about one hundred miles north of the southern extremity of the continent. The most southern point of land is not the Cape of Good Hope, as is generally supposed, but a low point about thirty miles south-east of the Cape of Good Hope, called Cape Lagullus. Hence the soundings, which here extend far into the ocean, are called "La- guUus Banks." We reached these thanks the day before v ; made land, and the appearance of the grampus, cajic geese, and other aquatic animals, which there abound, presented an agreeable diversion from the tedious monotony of a voyage of five thousand milr's across the Indian ocean. During thirty-five days there was scarcely an object appeared to attract attention, though we were sailing over that part of the great deep where some of the principal scenes of the •' Flying Dutchman " were laid. However, we were gravely told by our captain, that, even to this day, there occasionally appears a fuli-riggod ship, hull and all, above water, in the vicinity of the Cape of Good Hope, answering to the description of the Flying Dutchman ; and he averred, that he had often seen, it himself, notwithstanding the assurance of Captain Marry- att, that the " Phantom Ship is no more." The day we doubled the Cape of Good Hope was a remarkably pleasant one, and we sailed along in full view of the coast during the whole day. When v/e arrived off the Cape, we were within three miles of land, and every object on shore could be distinctly seen from the ship's deck. We had a splendid breeze in passing around, and we left in our rea», in quick succes- sion, Cape Point, Gurner's Coin, and English Point, and rounding to, to enter the harbor of Cape Town, we fell under the lee of the high lands of the coast, where we lost our wind, and within sight of the town, harbor, TO NEW YORK. 805 ihipping, light-house, and the American Consulate, where the stars and stripes were fluttering in the breeze, wo lay in a dead cairn till the following morning. A gentle breeze arose with the sun, and bore us into the quiet bosom of Table Ba}', on the shore of which is situated the beautiful and picturesque city known by the name of Cape Town. Our stay here was only a day and a half, but we im- proved the tine in examining every thing interesting in and about tha place. The town is quite beautiful, and seems to be more active and animated than any other English town I have ever seen. It is built on an inclined plain, which extends from ihe base of I'able Mountain to the waters of the bay, the distance of one mile and a half. The streets are broad and regular, crossing each other at right angles, but without side-walks ; a smgular defi- ciency in a town where walking seems to be fashionable with all classes. Coaches appear to be numerous, and it is here that a stranger can judge of the quality of an individual, and the amount of his income, from the splendor of his riding equipage. Here may be seen the rough cart, drawn by a mule, the common buggy, coach and one, coach and two, coach and four, coach and six. I saw some of the latter class, with the coach and harness mounted with gold ; hut as I he:.ird the sound of weeping issue from one of the coaches, I was reminded that misery is closely allied to opulence and grandeur. To make up for the deficiency of suitable walks in the city, the Anglo Africans, a little distance out of town, have a number of the most beautifully shaded prome- nades, which, for all the elite of the place, are very fashionable as well as very pleasant resorts. Doubtless the present occupants of Cape Town are indebted to the Dutch for a great many of the comforts and luxuries which they now enjoy ; particularly the delightful gar- dens and shaded walks, which render Cape Town a very pleasant place. There are a number of elegant buildings in the city v 13* fit, -^i.v< flS^ 306 VOYAGE FROM HONQ KONO but there appeared to be but few now being erected which shows that the place is at a stand. Churches abound, and the principal are the Episcopal, Lutheran and Wesleyan. There are three or four of the latter, but, from the shortness of our stay, I could not particu- larly inform myself in regard to the state of religion in the colony. The number of inhabitants in Cape Colony, embracing all ranks and colors, is about fifty thousand ; thirty thousand of whom reside in Cape Town. As in all foreign countries that have been colonized by Europeans, where the native inhabitants are colored, the people of Cape Town present all possible shades of complexion. Those, however, who share in the blood of the Hottentot, it is presumed, are not admitted into the higher classes of society, but many of them, espe- cially among the brunettes, possess remarkably fine forms and features, and, in the streets of Cape Town, and on the different promenades, present a very respect- able appearance. , It is well known that the Dutch were the firs. Eu- ropeans that gained a footing in south Africa ; and Cape Town, as well as the surrounding country, presents many evidences of the taste and enterprise of their first civilized inhabitants. The beautiful groves already spoken of, some of which are a mile in extent, a;e all artificial, and composed of a species of black oak. The trees have been collected with great labor, and planted in regular rows, and so near together liat their boughs intermingle over head, so as to form a dense shade at all times of day. Doubtless the naturally destitute condi- tion of the country, as it regards timber, and the desiro to screen themselves from the burning heat of the suh prompted the first settlers to form these artificial forest* Be this as it may, they are used by the present popu lation as a great luxury. We had an opportunity to judge of their utility from personal experience. As we rambled through the town, we found the heat of the sun exceedingly oppressive ; but coming to a gate which opened into one of these retreats, we walked in, and I i..»»iii.i ji)timmmpm^mf TO NEW YORK. 807 found ourselves in an atmosphere truly refreshing. In the centre of the grove which we explored, and which is about one mile long, is the residence of the governoi of the Colony, and, as we passed, we observed that the gateway leading to the palace was guarded by two huge lioiis. Nothing can appear more rural than the govern- or's seat, though within one-half mile of the tumult of the busy town. Within the precincts of the town, as well as round about, vineyards abound. The raising of grapes appears to be one of the principal pursuits of the people, the Dutch portion of the population in particular. The grapes are of various kinds, and exceedingly fine, some of them comparing in size with the green gage-plum. They are used, as in other countries where they abound, /or the manufacture of wines and raisins. These arti- cles of commerce are sent to Europe and America, annually, in great abundance, and are known as Cape wines and Cape raisins. We were in one of the estab- lishments where they are manufactured, and from the specimens of wines which were there shown, it is not difficult to believe that nine-tenths of the stuff sold and drank, in the i^ame of wine, in civilized jountries, are entirely spurious. The raisins, though of a good quality, will not compare with the Malaga, and some other kinds. We were conducted to a room where the negroes were packing raisins, and observed that they would first fill the boxes, and then spread a piece of cloth over the raisins and trample them in with their feet. Apples, also, and pears, abound in the city, and are of a good quality. They grow mostly in the interior, but are always to be found in the market, as also potatoes, onions and other vegetables, for the accommodation of ships. As it regards the civil state of the country, all waa quiet and prospering around the Cape, but in conse- quence of the threatening aspect of things among the Bushmen, the soldiers that were quartered at Cape Town ijuvo ail been sent off to the frontiers, and it is expected ^f m 308 VOVAOB PROM HONG KONO that their presence in that region will keep every thing quiet. The American Consul, who appears to be truly a reli- gious man, gave us the following information, with respect to the results of missionary labor in Cape Colony : Large numbers of the native inhabitants, in various places, had professed to be converted, but very few had continued, for any length of time, to give evi- dence of a genuine change of heart. Indeed, it appears to be the case in Africa, as well as in other heathen countries, that it is much easier to get the people con- verted than it is to keep them so. Though the good accomplished for the natives may be limited, yet mis- sionary labor, in such a place as Cape Colony, xa vastly in'.portant, in securing the well-being of foreign residents, and in giving a correct tone to the moral state of society. However elevated human nature may become through tne influence of science, truth and correct example, it has a natural tendency downwards, which will always exhibit itself in proportion as the restraints of religion cease to be felt. Governments seldom supply their colonies with that kind and amount of religious influence necessary to preserve a wholesome moral atmosphere in society. This must be done by the church of Chnst ; and rt is only necessary for Christians to understand the true condition of those countries which are being re- deemed from barbarism by the settlement of colonies from civilized and Christian nations, to induce them to use their best endeavors to supply them with all the necessary means for religious instruction. Foreigners, Europeans and Americans, are found in all heathen countries, where they have settled for the pur- pose of accumulating money ; and, generally, the mis- sionary will succeed with the heathen in proportion to the degree of influence he is able to throw around the con- duct of foreign residents. Vicio^'s foreigners, residing among the heathen, may, by a few weeks or even days of wickedness, destroy the religious efforts of many years ; and these are the characters with whom the TO NEW YORK. 309 missionary must come in contact in a'l parts of the world ; and tins may be regarded as one of tlic greatest hindrances to his success. The ship having procured its supplies of fresh pro- visions and water, and ourselves having purciiased a suitable quantity of apples, pears and fresh grapes, for our own private use, on Friday evening, the 14th of March, we weighed anchor, to resume our homeward voyage ; but, for the want of a breeze, we did not suc- ceed in getting out of Table Bay, until the following' morning. Before leaving, a circumstance happened illustrative of the character of the captain, under whose rule we lived for nearly one hundred and fifty days. He had shipped a sailor at Hong Kong, but in conse- quence of a disagreement about the price, the sailor, who was a smart, active Italian, had not signed any bonds, and consequently considered that he had a right to leave the vessel at the Cape, if he was so disposed. He ac- cordingly informed the captain that he wished to settle with him, as he designed to leave. The captain, having had a grudge against him ever since the first difficulty, became now exceedingly enraged, at what he called the " scoundrel's insolence," and, seizing a belaying- pin, struck the sailor in the forehead, and, but for the rigging, the latter would have fallen to the deck. He gathered himself, however, and, rising upon his feet, with his face covered with blood, very properly up- braided the infuriated captain, for the cruelty of his conduct. The captain had had a similar difficulty with a seaman at Hong Kong, whom he chased all over the deck of the vessel, unmercifully pounding him with a belaying-pin, subsequently causing him to be put in irons, and flogged. The seaman, after being discharged, entered a complaint against the captain, before the Consul, and, (as the cap- tain told Mrs. Hooper,) recovered damages of him to the amount rf one hundred dollars, which, the captain said, he *' walked up and paid like a man." For fear of meeting witii a similar retribution at Cape Town, for his cruel treatment of the defenceless Italian, he detained a boa HP! T 310 VOYAGE FROM HONG KONG BH ^■'l ^K' 1 i 1 ■Sn 1 WK i w BBS? MMIt- i i^^^^^HC Hi' along side, and kept the sailor on board of the vessel till we were well under way ; and when he supposed that we were so far away that there was no danger of being pursued, he sent the sailor into the boat, to be tako'i ashore. As the Italian was leaving the deck, his com- rades saluted him by saying, " there goes the best sailor we had among us." Notv/ithstanding these objectionable traits in his cna- racter, our captain is an excellent navigator ; he appears perfectly at home on the vessel, and is more laborious than any other captain I have ever seen. While I have no occasion to find fault with his course in reference to myself and family, I can speak in high commendation of his conduct towards Mrs. Hooper and her children. He was particularly attentive to their wants, while he was liberal with all the passengers on board ; and but for strong drink, that great spoiler of humanity, he would be one of the safest captains that sail upon the " great deep." From our experience on this vessel, I am fully per- suaded that, where passengers and ships' crews suffer, as is often the case, for the want of suitable provisions, it is owing, in nine cases out of ten, to the penuriousness or carelessness of owners and captains. No word of complaint, however, can be preferred against the Leland, for the quahty of the fare which she aflbrded. Every thing was in good time, and in good order ; and the variety of meats, vegetables and sauce, with which the table was furnished, was truly surprising to us, who, on other vessels, had been accustomed to such different fare. Besides his attention to the wants of the* passen- gers, Mr. Finlay proved himself to be a very agreeable cabin companion. He is very much of a gentleman, and having followed the seas for more than twenty years, as supercargo, he has collected a vast fund of general information. It is often necessary to be subjected to a close con- nection with others, for some length of time, in order to be able to form corre(;t opinions concerning them. Mrs. Hooper, we found to be, not only a very benevolent TO NEW YORK. 311 person, but an agreeable associate in the cabin. We shall often call to mind the many hours at sea which have bef^n rendered more endurable by her intelligent conversation and cheerful deportment. Saturday, the 15th of March, the mountainous coast of southern Africa disappeared in the dim distance. For the first few days after leaving Table Bay, we made but little progress, in consequence of adverse winds, but the fourth day, we took the south-east trades, and began to indulge the pleasing reflection, that the next land we saw would be the shores of our own native country, though there were checks thrown upon our happiness by the consideration, that there were still many dangers to pass, and storms to buffet, before we should reach the desired haven. The south-east trade-winds are not very strong, and the ocean, in the region where they prevail, is generally smooth, and the weather pleasant ; consequently, it is in passing over these latitudes that vessels, homeward bound, prepare for entering port. The vessel is to be scrubbed, inside and out ; the decks are to be scraped, holy-stoned, and varnished ; the spars are to be cleansed and painted, and the bulwarks, masts, round-house, chains, guns, casks, buckets, and binacle, are all to be scoured and painted. The rigging is to be overhauled and tarred down ; empty boxes, barrels, and all unne- cessary lumber, are to be cast overboard ; rent sails are all to be mended, and put in perfect order, and every thing, even to the anchor, is to put on, at least a clean outside, so that the ship will make as good an ap- pearance when she enters port as when she left. As the Leiand had been out nearly eighteen months, and in that time having performed a voyage round the world, she required much cleansing, and the seamen were busily employed in accomplishing this object, for several weeks. While this work was going on, an accident happened which produced a great excitement on board. We were sailing before the wind at the rate of five knots an hour, and a sailor boy, who was on the outside of the bid 812 VOYAGE PROM HONG KONG I A Ml f warks, scraping the fore chains, and was held to his place by a rope tied around his waist, and fastened to a belaying-pin, from carelessness, lost his hold, and, as the rope slipped upon the pin, he fell into the ocean. As he was falling, he hallooed as loud as he could roar, for his comrades to haul in the slack of the rope. As they did not understand him, a cry was raised, that resounded from the after cabin to the forecastle, that *' a man was overboard." The ladies in the cabin heard the cry, and Mrs. Hooper thought it was her little daughter, as she heard the word "child," and Mrs. Hines thought I was the unfortunate one, as she heard my name mentioned in connection with "overboard." ; - Which of the two were most frightened, it is difficult to tell. Mrs. Hooper was actually thrown into a fit, and Mrs. Hines fainted, and neither of them, two weeks afterwards, had entirely recovered from the shock. As soon as the cry was raised, the mate seized a hen- coop containing nine chickens, and cast it overboard, for the drowning man to hold upon until other relief could be sent. But this was not necessary, as the rope did not slip far on the pin before it held ; and as it re- tained its hold on his body, the frightened tar, by the assistance of his comrades, was soon again brought on deck. We were twenty-six days from the Cape of Good Hope, to the equinoctial line, and had the good fortune to pass from the south-east to the north-east trade, with very little detention. In the region of the equator we experienced numerous showers of rain, but as they were accompanied by favorable breezes, we were "soon out of the rainy latitudes, and, by the assistance of a strong north-east trade, were passing up into the regions of the north, at the rate of two hundred miles per day. We crossed the equator in longitude thirty-six degrees, and consequently were not far from the coast of Brazil. In north latitude, twenty degrees, we approached so neai the Island of Trinidad, as to discern its whereabouts, and witness the immense columns of clouds which hung around its lofty and volcanic summit. From this our ii iiiiig ^mm mm» TO NEW YOBJC 313 course lay along, about two hundred miles to the wind- ward of the West India Islands, While passing these, we experienced a succession of squalls and calms which continued until we entered the twenty-fifth degree of north latitude. While in latitude twenty-four degrees forty-one minutes, and longitude sixty-one degrees forty minutes, on the 25th of April, we had a splendid view of a solar eclipse. It was a remarkably clear day, and the eclipse was so nearly total that it became quite dark. At the greatest obscuration the south side of the sun presented the appearance of the moon at thirty-six hours old, and the light preceeding from it was not, in appear- ance, unlike to the light of the moon on a clear winter's night. However common the phenomenon of an eclipse of the sun may be to us, far away upon the sea, it was a source of real entertainment ; and we cheered our- selves with the idea that many of our friends on land were perhaps gazing at the same object. * A number of severe squalls while we were passing the Bermudas, brought to mind the quaint lines of the sailor * •• If Bermuda let you pass, liook ye out for Hatteras ; If Hatteras you pass bv. Look yo out for Cape llenry." Bermuda, however, "let us pass" on the 25th of April, and we began to flatter ourselves that our voyage would Boon be over. When a person first leaves his native land and goes to sea, the wonders of the deep are contemplated by him with a great degree of interest. The monsters that inhabit it — the whale, the shark, the porpoise — and the various kinds of fish that explore its boundless ex- tent ; together with the albatros, petrel, and other birds which live almost perpetually on the wing, and are seen alike in calms and storms in all latitudes, become, suc- cessively, the objects of his curious observation. The manner in which the ship is managed, the peculiar phrases which salute his ear, iho tacking ship, the S14 VOYAuij I-ROAl MONO KOXO making sail, the shortening sail, and a thousand other i- li things, conspire to interest and divert him. And, indeed, to the curious, the sea does not present that dull mono- tony of which so many voyagers liave coniplained. However, subjects contemplated with great interest •ti an outward voyage, do not claim the same attention when one is bound for home, after an absence of seven or eight years. The absorbing topic with us on ap- proaching our native coast, was the distance we were sailing from day to day, and the probable time we should reach our much desired haven. We had been absent nearly seven years ; and while approximating our native shores, a thousand thoughts revolved in our minds in reference to the circumstances in which we might find those persons and things that were interesting to us before subjecting ourselves to our voluntary exile. We had left a large circle of friends, and from many of them we had heard nothing for seven long years. As we had been situated in the most isolated country on the globe, the information we had received concerning the state of our own religious denomination, had been very limit- ed, and usually more than one year old when obtained. The numerous changes which must have taken place in the different localities and social circles in which it had been our privilege to move, had been kept from our knowledge. Indeed, a pall of darkness had long since fallen upon most of those things which were particularly interesting to us as private individuals ; and from the uncertainty of every thing before us, we scarcely knew whether to be elated or dejected — to indulge in feelings of joy or those ot sorrow — when we reflected that in a few more days the hills and valleys of our own New York would appear before us, and we should be permit- tod again to visit those places rendered dear to us by many hallowing associations. Whether we were to be greeted by our friends on our arrival, or whether we were to learn that they were dead, was altogether pro- blematical, and we began to indulge the melancholy reflection that we might find ourselves strangers even in our own native village. TO NEAt YORK. ai!» While the different changes which might have taken place in the various departments of church and state, and in the families with which we had been acquainted, were passing before our minds, our gallant vessel was bearing us rapidly onward towards our native shores, and on the 30th of April we entered the Gulf Stream in .aiitude thirty-six degrees north, and found this terror of the American coast in a remarkably quiet state, as it usually is when westerly winds prevail. We were sixteen hours in crossing the stream, and on the 1st day of May found ourselves on soundings, off the Capes ol" Virginia. It is a singular fact often eliciting remarks from voy- agers, though it is none the less remarkable on that account, that the water in the Gulf Stream is fifteen degrees warmer than it is on either side. Before reaching it from the south, the water for a great dis- tance was full of an aquatic plant called the gulf-weed. As every object at sea commands the notice of (he voyager, the sea-weed was observed with no small interest. ' On getting past the stream, in the evening we were permitted to see a grand display of Nature's lire-works. The clouds that hung over the stream in dense masses, were lighted up by the continued flashes of electricity, with the most magnificent illumination. Sometimes it would appear as if the whole ocean in our rear was in one general conflagration. After leaving the stream we were favored with remarkably pleasant weather and fair winds, and on the morning of the 2d day of rMay, at three o'clock, we made the lighthouse of Barnegat, on the coast of New Jersey. Soon after daylight we received a New York pilot, at which time our voyage was considered as ter- minated ; making one hundred and two days from Hong Kong. After receiving the pilot, a dense fog enveloped us, through v/hich we had to feel our way, and in the midst of which we were hovering around the entrance to New York Bay. At length the fog was removed by a friendly wind, and at dusk the Leland dropped liei % 316 BONO KONO TO NEW YuAK. ! ' anchor inside of Sandy Hook, and Mrithin a stone^s cast of the spot where lay the Lausanne the night previous to taking her departure in 1839. We were detained at the Hook by dense fogs until the 4th of x\lay, when we proceeded up the Bay to New York city, where we landed in safety on the evening of that day. \ }■ *^i,•*.■H,'»; CHAPTER Xn. OptgoB Temtory — Its geography — Boundary «nd extent — Harbor* — Cupwi -m Pace of the country — Snow Mountains — Rivers — Mouth of the Columbia — Columbia Bar — Channel — Kinds of fish — Timber — Climate — Summer and Winter ~ Fertility of the soil — Clatsop Plains — Bottom lands — Puget's Sound — The fardoM of Oregon — Middle region — Upper region •— Capabilitioa of the cenatry. That portion of the vast extent of country lying west of the Rocky Mountains, which has acquired, by universal consent, the name of Oregon, lies within the following boundaries : Commencing at the north-west corner, in the centre of the Strait of Juan De Fuca, at its mouth, consider the north line as extending along said strait, at an equal distance from the main land on the south, and Vancouver's Island on the north, east ward, the distance of one hundred and twenty miles, thence northward till it strikes the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, thence due east along said parallel the distance of five hundred and fifty miles, to the Rocky Mountains ; on the east by the Rocky Mountains, ex- tending from the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, to the forty-first, the distance of four hundred and eighty miles ; on the south by the Snowy Mountains, which extend, in a continuous range, from the Rocky Mountaitjs to Cape Mendocino, on the Pacific, the dis- tance of seven hundred miles ; and on the west by the Pacific ocean, from Cape Mendocino, five hundred and twenty miles due north, to the mouth of the Strait of Juan De Fuca, near Cape Flattery, the place of begin- ning. Since the dividing line between the two govern- ments which have an interest and have exercised a controlling inlucnce in the country, has now been de 318 ORKOON TERRITORY. fined, and the forty-ninth parallel is hereafter, forever, to Bcparatu the two nations!, it remains no longer a subject v>f diBCussion ; but any one, in eastin >;, no farther proof that the works of art sink into insi^,. ficanoe, when compared with the stupendous works of nature. Descendir.g ihttsc mou/minH to the east, you come into the valleys, auccei ly, through which the river " De Shoots," Tohn Day's river, the Unatila, and the Walla Walla flow, before emptying into the Columbia; via. and J, presents ./ithout OREGON TEBI^ITPRV: 393 and on the north side of the latter river, you come down into the valley of the north branch of the same river. On the north, this middle region is comparatively level, until you approach the northern ridges of the Blue mountains ; but on the south side there are innumerable hills between the small rivers already mentioned, as also many plains of greater or less extent. As you approach the Blue mountains on the south, particularly on the Unatilla and Walla- Walla rivers, the hills disappear, and you find yourself passing over a beautiful and level country, about twenty-five or thirty miles broad, on the farther borders of which rise with indescribable beauty and grandeur, that range which, from its azure-like ap- pearance, has been called the " Blue Mountains." This valley, extending from the Cascade to the Blue moun- tains, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles broad, and the traveler in passing through it, meets with a con- tinued succession of rocks, hills and plains of all dimen- sions, but generally he is well pleased with the face of the country. The Blue mountains are steep and rocky, and many of them also volcanic. Some are covered with perpetual snow. They run nearly parallel with the Cascade mountains, though at the south branches of them intersect the latter range. They are about midway between the Pacific ocean and the Rocky mountains. The face of the country east of the Blue mountains is, if possible, more varied than it is west. The southern part of this third region, or upper co»;ntry, so far as its surface is concerned, is distinguished by its steep and rugged mountains, deep and dismal valleys, called holcs^ by mountaineers, and wide granite plains. It wears a forbidding aspect. But the north part is less objectiona- ble in its features. The plains are more extensive, the mountains less precipitous, and the valleys not so gloomy. Many portions of this upj)er region are volcanic, and some of the volcanoes are in constant action. On the eastern limits of this region, rise the towering summits of the Rocky mountains, which form at oncq 324 OREGON TERRITORY. the eastern boundary of Oregon, and are every way worthy to separate the waters of the Atlantic ocean from those of the Pacific. In fine, so far as the external appearance of this country is concerned, in contem- plating its distinguished features, one is brought to the conclusion that there is nothing in all the descriptions of European or Oriental scenery, that surpasses that of this interesting country. The rivers of Oregon form the next distinguishing trait of The country to be described. These are princi- pally embraced in the Columbia and its tributaries. This majestic river, which drains nearly the whole of Oregon, like most of the large rivers of North America, is supplied from the inexhaustible reservoirs of the Rocky mountains. Some of the more important confluents of this river require to be particularly noticed. The most northerly branch of the Columbia is Canoe river, which rises near the fifty-fourth degree of latitude, and after running about one hundred miles in a southerly direction, unites with two others, one of which rises in a tremendous gorge of the Rocky mountains, under the fifty-third parallel, and the other flows from the south about two hundred miles along the base of the nwun- tains. A traveler, in describing this gorge, says : ** The country around our encampment presented tne wildest and most terrific appearance of desolation. The sun, shining on a range of stupendous glaciers, threw a chill- ing brightness over the chaotic mass of rocks, ice and snow, by which we were environed. Close to our en- campment one gigantic mountain of conical form towered majestically into the clouds far above the others, while at intervals the interest of the scene was heightened by the rumbling noise of a descending avalanche," The mountain here referred to, is supposed to be the highest point of land in North America. The south river, being the largest of the three, is entitled to be called the Columbia, to its rise, Avhich takes place in a small lake situated jn the mountains, net^Hy under the fiftieth parallel pf nqrth latitude. 4ftcf tlve junction of the three, jlhe Columbia pursues a course nearly due OREGON TERRITOKV. 3-^{i south for two hundred miles, receiving a number of small rivers in its passage, and then unites its waters with those of the Mc Gillivry and the Clark rivers, both of which come rushing down from the Rocky mountains, to swell its increasing tide. The Clark takes its rise near the sources of the Missouri, and, in its pas- sage to the Columbia, receives a number of smaller streams. This river rushes into the Columbia down a ledge of rocks, and the latter, in its passage through the Blue mountains, immediately after the junction, forms the Kittle Falls. From this point the river takes nearly a western course, one hundred miles, where it takes in the Okanagan from the north, having previously received the Spokan from the south and east. At this poini the river makes another bend, and taking a due south course about one hundred and fifty miles, to the forty-sixth degree of north latitude, unites with its great southern branch, called the " Snake, or Lewis River." This stream takes its rise in the Rocky and Snowy mountains, near the sources of the Colorado, the Piatt, the Yellow Stone, and the Missouri rivers. It first takes a western course about two hundred miles, thence north- west about two hundred and fifty, to its junction with its kindred branch from the north. It passes through the Blue mountains, forming the Salmon Falls, and receives, in its course, the Henry, Melade, Wapicacoos, the Koos- kooske, or Salmon river, and a number of other streams. Below the junction of these two great branches, the Columbia receives, on the south, the Walla Walla, Una- tilla, John Day's river, and the De Shoots, or Falls river ; and, after shooting itself through the Dalls, or Narrows, where it becomes compressed to about one hundred and fifty feet wide, and in passing through the narrow chasm, forms, at some stages, the most frightful whirlpools, it glides gently and smoothly onward about forty miles, and then throws itself through a terrific chasm, which its accumulated waters have torn in the mountains, and rushing down a ledge of rocks, forms the beautiful cascades. ^ Above the Dalls, the river, in many place**, is vorv I !«<« OREGON TFRRITORY. rapid, ana in one place, a short distance from the De Shoots, in low water, there is a peipenq'icular fall of several feet. But, when the river is high, the water seta back from the narrows below, so as to admit of the passage of boats up and down. The Cascades cannot, however, be run with boats either in high water or low. Many a poor voyager in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, both at the Cascades and the Dulls, has lost his life in attempting to navigate these treacherous waters. A boat filled with American emigrants, in at- tempting to run the Dalls last fall, was drawn down in one of the tremendous whirlpools, and, though the shore was lined with people, two or three persons sunk and perished before their eyes. Below the Cascades the river continues rapid a few miles, but soon becomes eflected by the tide. The dis- tance from the Cascades to the Pacific, is about one hundred and forty miles, and the river is navigable for vessels drawing fourteen feet, nearly the whole distance. The rivers which fall into the Columbia below the Cas- cades are, the Quicksand and the Wallamette, on the south, and the Cowilitz on the north. The Wallamette takes its rise in the Cascade mountains, and in that range of high lands which border the Pacific ocean. In pass- ing up the Wallamette from its mouth, the fifst branch of importance you discover, is the Clakamas, on the east or left-hand side, as you go up the stream, and twenty- four miles from the upper mouth of the Wallamette. This river rises in Mount Hood, and passes through a rough country ; though there is occasionally a fine plain on its banks. One mile above the mouth of Clakamas is the Wallamette falls. Here the river rushes over a precipice of rocks thirty feet perpendicular in low water. But the river below the falls often rises so hxiih that there are but from six to ten feet perpendicular falls. This is a most beautiful cataract, and the hydraulic pri- vileges which it affords, and which are beginning to be extensively used, are almc t boundless. Two miles above the fails you come to the mouth of ORGOON TERRITORY, 327 the Tuality, which comes into the Wallamette from the west, or on the right-hand as you ascend the river. This river rises in the high lands towards the coast, in a number of Uttle streams which water the beautiful and somewhat extensive plains, which are called " The Tu- ality Plains.*' This river, though small, will ultimately be of con-^ siderable importance to the country, as it can easily be made navigable for boats far into the plains, and some of the smaller branches, tliirly and forty miles from tho Wallamette, may be advantageously used for the pur-* pose of driving different kinds of machinery. 1 ; n miles above the Tuality you arrive at the mouth of the Molala and Hanchauke rivers. These two unite but a short distance before they empty into the Wallamette. The Molala rises in the Cascade mountains, but the source of the Hanchauke is in a lake situated midway between the Wallamette river and the base of that range. They both water extensive and beautiful plains, in their ser- pentine course to the Wallamette. Fifteen miles above these rivers, you come to the mouth of the Yamhill, which rises in the Kilemook hills towards the ocean and, after meandering for thirty or forty miles through one of the most beautiful portions of the Wallamette valley, and, with its tributaries watering the extended plains through which it flows, it rushes down a ledge of rocks a few feet, forming a beautiful cascade, and hastens to mingle its waters with those of the Wallamette. Proceeding up the stream, and passing a nuntiber of small ones on each side, after coing twenty-tv/o miles, you arrive at what is called Mill Creek, which comes into the Wallamette from the south-east. It is a small stream, but from its flowing through a beautiful, exce' ent and central portion of the valley, and affording sonie very fine water-privileges, it is regarded as being a very important branch of the Wallamette. Six miles above this comes in the Rickreal, from ♦he west, which can also boast of its priviliges for milling operations and of watering a splendid portion of tho country. 398 OREGON TERRITORY. Eight or ten miles above the Rickreal, comes dancing down into the Wallamette, from the east, the " Santa Am's Fork," being fed by the numerous rivulets which rise in the Cascade range. This is a very considerable stream, and from the facilities which it offers for water power, and from the nature of the country through which it flows, may be regarded as second in importance to none of the tributaries of the Wallamette. Above this, as far as you are disposed to advance, the tributaries of the Wallamette are numerous on each aide, but resembling those already described in their sources, dimensions and importance, as well as in the nature of the country through which they flow, do not require to be separately considered. The principal branch of the Wallamette rises in a snow-clad mountain, called, by British fur traders, '* Mount McLaughlin," but by Mr. Kelly, an American citizen, " Mount Madison." Its general course is north, and after running about two hundred and fifty miles, it divides, and forming a long narrow Island, called Wap- pato Island, the upper channel empties into the Colum- bia six miles below Fort Vancouver, and ninety miles from the Pacific ocean, and the lower channel, eighteen miles below the upper mouth. It has been generally supposed that the Wallamette river runs through a flat, sunken country, and is therefore a sluggish and muddy stream, than which nothing can be more erroneous. True, from its union with the Columbia, for fifteen miles up, it bears that character, but above this, the general velocity of the current is from three to six miles an hour, and its bed is either gravel, rock, or sand ; while nothing can exceed the cleanliness and beauty of its chores. It is navigable for vessels drawing twelve feet, rifteen miles above its upper mouth, and for steamboats, quite up to the Falls. A great portion of the year it is navigable for light steamboats, for fifty or sixty miles al»ove the Falls. In fine, the Wallamette, with its nu- merous tributaries, arising from its susceptibilities o^ navigation, its boundless water privileges, the extent^ beauty, and amaz ^ resources oi the country which it OREGON TERRITORY. 339 [1 s » IS ;S .1- »<• it, It waters, may be considered as the most interesting and important tributary of the Columbia. This great artery of Oregon, twelve miles below the lower mouth *f the Wallamette, receives the Cowilitz from the north, the last river of any magnitude, which contributes to swell its mighty flood, till it reaches the Pacific ocean. The Cowilitz rises in Mount St. Helen's, and in its passage to the Columbia, flows, in a rapid cur- rent, through a valley of considerable farming impor- tance. The Columbia below the Cascades, and after having swallowed up all its important tributaries, is from one mile to a mile and a half in width, until you reach to within twenty-five miles of the ocean. Here it opens to the width of four or five miles, forming, on the south shore. Swan Bay. In this bay, or rather broad space of the river, are a^ number of low sandy islands already formed, while others appear to be forming in various places. At the foot of this bay, is Tongue Point, which is a high rocky promontory extending into the river from the south shore. From this point to the high blufl' on the north shore, the river is six miles wide. Here the ship channel runs nearly straight across the river, and it generally requires, from the shallowness and intricacy of the channel, two or three days to pass through it. Below Tongue point, the river again widens to eight or ten miles, and a deep indentation on the north shore, and above Chenook point, is called "Gray's Bay," and nearly opposite and between Tongue point and George's point, and ten miles from the mouth, is the harbor of Astoria. Between the latter point and Point Adams, is Young's Bay, which extends some ways back inland, and receives a river called Lewis' and Clark's river. This is a beautiful bay, about five miles broad, and the ship channel passes directly across its mouth. After swelling out and form- ing the two bays above described, the river becomes again contracted, so that from Point Adams to Chenook point, it is only five miles wide. On the north side, oetween Chenook point and Cape Divsappointment, is Baker's Bay, which, being sheltered from the winds by 14* ■ ■": ''y;/frrT V**S''^-'--'7''A:i^> ;f**^"^f 830 OREGON TERRlTOnV. the high lands anJ timber which surround it, is a safe and comfortable harbor. The distance from Point Adama to Cape Disappointment is six miles. From the former is a channel which runs straight into the ocean in nearly a south-west direction, and no where less than thirty feet deep and one third of a mile wi composed of fir. This kind of timber abounds c ' ie Columbia, for one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, among the mountains that border the Pacific, or the lower parts of the Umpqua and Clameth rivers, in various parts of the Wallamette valley, and along the base, on both sides of the Cascade mountains. This timber, in various parts of the country, grows to an almost incredible size. It is no uncommon thing to find trees from twenty-four to thirty-six feet in circumference, and three hundred feet high. One was measured near Astoria or Fort George, and was forty- six feet in circumference, ten feet from the ground. This tree has been cut down, bat the writer has ex- amined the stump and is certain that the tree has not wmsmsssiimm 832 ORROOJr TERRITORY. ^}j been misrepresented. If possible, on the Umpqua river, the fir grows longer than on the Columbia. Here, ai also in some parts of the Wallamette valley, the forests are trulv magnificent. This IS the principal timber used in the country, both for framing, joinery and fencing purposes. Cargoes of it are shipped annually to the Sandwich Islands, where it finds a ready market at a high price. Besides this, there is a species of the yellow pine, which, however, is not of a very excellent quality, nor does it grow in great abundance. The oak is quite plenty in the Wallamette and the Umpqua valleys, and considered, next to the fir, the most valuable timber e country. In the upper parts of the ♦vallamette and Umpqua valleys, timber is very scarce, and if these portions are ever settled, as doubtless will be the case, building and fencing materials will be brought from the surrounding mountains, a few miles distant. Along the rivers of this lower country may also be found, in considerable quan- tities, the cotton-wood, alder, ash, willow, dog-wood, and white maple. The laurel is also indigenous to the country, and cedar of an inferior quality, abounds in some places. Beside these, there is a variety of shrubbery, among which are the service-berry, crab-apple, hazle-nut, and swamp maple. In the middle region, or between the Cascade and Blue mountains, timber is very scarce ; the trees are generally small, and of soft, useless woods, such as cotton- wood, sumach and willow, and found only in the neighborhood of the streams. In the Blue mountains aro found quantities of pine, which, in the event of the settlement of the beautiful valleys of the middle country, may be rafted down the rivers, which pass through the mountains, to almost any point below, which, indeed is already done on the Clear Water and Walla Walla rivers. But many parts of the country, and particularly of the middle region, must forever remain destitute of timber, and if ever occupied by any people except sava- ^e$>, substitutes for building and fencing purposes must m OREGON TERRITORY. 339 I *|ike the place of the fine fir, oak, pine and ash of the lower country. This scarcity of timber is quite a draw- back on many portions of the country. The climate of Oregon varies materially as you pro* ceed from the coast into the iihterior. To a proper understanding of the nature of the climate of this coun- try, it is necessary to consider the Wi'ntLr and the sum- mer separately and somewhat particularly. The winds which prevail here, as in every other part of Oregon in the winter, are from the south and east, sometimes veerin to the south-west. There is no definite peritvi in the fall wheri these winds commence blowing, but the differeni seasons vary much in this respect. Sometimes we have a touch of them, about the twentieth of Sep- tember, but this is regarded only as a timely monition of what we are subsequently to realize. Some seasons these winds set in for good about the tenth or fifteenth of Octo- ber, but others, they do not come till late in November. It is impossible to calculate precisely when they will begin to blow, or, in other words, when an Oregon win- ter will decidedly set in. The commencement may be considered as ranging from the first of October to the first of January ; and the medium is about the middle of November. Sometimes they come on gradually, but some seasons they burst upon the country at once, and with the violence of a thunder storm. These winds always bring with them continued falls of rain ; and therefore the period of their continuance is properly called the rainy season. Along the Pacific coast these storms are more violent and the rains more abundant than they are in the Walla- mette valley. When fully set in, these rains generally continue, with occasionally a very short interval, for two or three months, and sometimes four, after which there is usually a month of warm, pleasant weather. This comes sometimes in February, sometimes in March, but is generally followed by three or four weeks of colil, chilly rains, from the south and west. During the latter part of winter, there are generally light falls of snow throughout the country, though in the valleys and pariicu (••a ^^^i S34 QCL|S£fcON ^JSfti^JlllOV^X' larly in the WaHamette valley it seldom falls to more tlian two or three inches deep. Though the winters are disagreeable on account of liio chilliness of the south-east winds, and the extreme humidity of the atmosphere, yet the cold is very mode- rate, the mercury seldom faUing as low as freezing point. As a matter of course, the ground is seldom frozen, and tiserefore ploughing may be done a great portion of the winter. Occasionally, however, triere is an exception to this. At one time the mercury fell m this volley to five degrees below zero, and at the Dalls, on the west side of the Cascade mountains, fifteen degrees. As this weatiier lasted for several days, the lakes were all frozen, so that cattle and horses could pass over them on the ice, and the Columbia river was bridged with it as far down as the mouth of the WaHamette, for twelve or fifteen days. But this was principallj'^ in consequence of the extreme cold above the Cascctdes, and the accumulation of ice in that region. A similar circumstance occurred m 1834. Considerable snov/ falls every year in the region of the Cascade mountains and around the Dalls on the Colum- bia. In the middle region, or from the Cascade to the Blue mountains, the rains begin later in the year, are less constant and heavy, and do not continue so late in the spring as in the lower country. In the latter they begin to taper off, generally, in the month of March, but con- tinue more or less through the month of April. It will be inferred from what has beer* said, that there is quite a difference in the winters of Oregon. Some are vastly more rainy than others. The winters of 1844 and 1845 commenced with a storm on the twelfth day of October, and continued with a storm of great and uniform violence through the months of No- vember, Decem.ber, January and February ; then taking a respite for three weeks in the month of March, it closed with a storm, which continued through the month of April. But one-half of the winters in Oregon are not characterized by as much falling weather as is frequently experienced in the State of New York, and are, ia con- ^^gmn^ ORGOON: TBSftlTORY. »»& sequence of their warmness, decidedly pleasant. It wll be understood that none of the winters of this country are so stormy or so cold, but that cattle and horses, with all other animals in tne country, subsist on no other feed than is found on the open prairies. In tlie upper country, or in that portion which lies immediately west of the Rocky mountains, it seldom rains, except in the spring, and then it is nor r-'otracted. But vast quantities of anow fall in the wiut;.', particularly on the mountains. This part of Orego») ^a extremely dry, which, with the vast difference in temperature between the day and the night, forms its most remarkable trait, at least sa far as climate is concerned. Between sunrise an?i noon there is a difference of from forty to sixty degrees of Fahren- heit. If the winters of Oregon are rather stormy and un- pleasant, the summers are sufficiently delightful to coun- terbalance all this. In the months of March and April, the weather usually becomes sufficiently warm to start vegetation, so that thus early the prairies become beauti- fully green, and many of Flora's choicest gifts appear to herald the approach of summer. But the summer winds do not generally prevail until the first of May. These are fro!n the west and north, and there is seldom any pleasant weather except when they prevail. And after a long and rainy winter, the people of this country look for the ; ol and healthy breeze from the bosom of the Pacific ocean with great solicitude. At length the wished for cl j.nge takes place ; the howl of the storm and the roar of the southern winds, are hushed to silence ; the hiljs and valleys are gently fanned by the western zephyr ; and the sun, pouring his floods of light from a cloudless sky, causes nature, as by enchantment, to enrobe her- self in all the glories of summer. The delightful weather thus ushered in, continues with but little variation, through the entire summer. There are, however, some showerp, but they are much " like angels' visit's, few and far between." Gene- rally in the montfis of July, August and Septomber, the ground becomes exceedingly dry. But the few rains 336 OREGON TERRITORY. Ill PI; that fall in May and June, with the moisture which is deposited in the heavy dews of the valleys, serve to bring the grains and vegetables to maturity. The temperature of the summer ranges from sixty-five to eighty degrees at noon, in the shade, but the evenings are much cooler. There are few nights through the summer, in which a person would be too warm, covered with two quilts and a flannel blanket. The cool evenings, however, are very pleasant, and doubtless go far to neu- tralize the effects of the malaria that is exhaled through the influence of the sun, from the swamp and marshy places, which are found in various parts of the country. From a personal experience of more than five years, and from an extensive observation in reference to this particular, the writer is prepared to express the opinion that the climate of Oregon, not excepting the Walla- mette valley, is decidedly favorable to health. And why should it not be 1 The temperature, particularly in this lower country, is remarkably uniform. This country is not subject to the evils resulting from sudden changes from extreme heat to extreme cold, as in some parts of the States. The exhilarating ocean breeze, which sets in almost every day during the summer, con- tributes greatly to purify the atmosphere. These cir- cumstances, connected with the fact that there is but little decaying vegetable matter in the country^ and but few dead swamps and marshes to send forth their poi- sonous miasma to infect the surrounding regions, are sufficient to show that this country must be the abode of health, and that human life is as likely to be protracted, and men as likely to die with old age in this country as in almost any other in the world. True, the Indians are generally diseased, and are fast dying off", but their dis- eases have not been generated in this country ; they are the result of their connection with diseased and dissi- pated foreigners. Formerly it was not so. Besides this, the ague and fever, which attacks many of the whites who come to settle in the Wallamette valley, is easily controlled, and finally leaves the person with a vigorous, unimpaired constitution, and seldom recurs to them the OREGON TERRITORY. 337 as are dis- are issi- ihis, litea Lsily ous, the fcccnd season. The persons in this country who appea" to oe the most healthy, are those who have been here the greatest length of time. The members of the Hudson's Bay Company gene- rally present, in the fullness andflushness of their fea- tures, the corpulency of their persons, and their sinewy and robust limbs, the most satisfactory evidence that the climate of Oregon must be friendly to the promotion of health. Indeed, but very few white persons have sick- ened and died in this country since its first occupancy by such, more than thirty years ago. Though these are the facts in reference to the health of the lower country, even yet there are persons in the States who are ready to publish far and near, that the climate of Oregon, and particularly of the Wallamette valley, is "decidedly unhealthy, that '* the most malignant and fatal fevers rage in the countr} ," than which, no representation coul ' ')C more erroneous. It i' be readily perceived from these remarks, that this clanalc is vvcll calculated or wheat, barley, oats, peas, apples, ^latoes, turnips, and al! other vegetables which are cultiva d in the ^liddle States- Indian corn, however, does not succeed very well, though some years considerable is raised. The cou.itry is exceedingly favo- rable fDr the raising of i.orses, cattle and hogs, all of which thrive and multijiy beyond all conception. If there is any differenco in regard to health between the diflerent portions of O' jon, probably the middle region, and immediatel} ig the coast, are the most healthy parts. The climate of the Wallamette valley is more favora- ble to agriculture than any other portion of the country ; but that of the middle region is every way adapted to f>urposes of grazing and to all the pursuits of a pastora. ife. But with a uniform healthy and delightful climate, that is as well adapted to agricultural purposes as any within the same degrees of latitude in any part of the earth, Oregon loses much of its interest, if the fertility oi the soil is not in keeping with the nature of the climate. n vi 338 OREGON TEKRITOnY. I The soil of Oregon has been variously represented DV persons who have traveled through the country. Some have spoken of it in altogether too favorable a light, while others have greatly underrated it. Some have plpced it among the first in the world in point of fertility, and others have considered Oregon as a boundless desert, fit only to be the habitation of wild beasts and savage tribes. Some have viewed it as a second Eden, and others, one writer in particular, denounces it as a "God-forsaken country that never was designed to be the habitation of a Christian or civilized man. These conflicting repre- sentations arise doubtless from a superficial acquaintance with the country. They have either not continued in the country a sufficient length of time to become ac- quainted with its real productiveness, or they have de- pended upon that information which has been artfully designed to prevent the true nature of the country from being known. To a proper understanding of the nature and produc- tiveness of the soil, it will be necessary to consider it as it appears in diflTerent portions of the country. As the Clatsop Plains are exciting considerable interest at the present time in the country, a description of them, with a view to the examination of the soil., is desirable. These plains lie on the south side of the mouth of the Columbia river, back of that point of land which is known by the name of Point Adams. They are a portion of that low tract of country which lies in the form of a triangle, one of whose sides is washed by the waves of the Pacific, and the other by those of Young's Bay ; while its base rests against the range of mountains extending back from Kellimook Head, and its point or apex is washed by the south channel of the Columbia. The height of this triangle, -r the distance from Point Adams back to the mountains, is about twenty-five miles, while the meai width is probably not more than four miles. The plains themselves are about twenty miles long and from one to two and a half broad. They contain about forty square miles They lie directly on the shore of the Pacific, and coiumand a fine view of all the ships that pass over the ■£»A OREGON TERRITORY. 339 bar of the Columbia. There is a beautiful sand-beach extending their entire length, which, at low water, forms a firm and commodious road. Between the plains and Young's Bay, there is a tract of timber land, comprising about twice as much as the plains, but similar in every other respect, except the dense forest of fir, spruce, pine, cedar, hemlock and alder, by which it is shaded. It is quite probable that the entire tract of land above described, nas been formed by the vast quantities of sands and vegetable substances which have been con- veyed from time immemorial, by the Columbia river to the ocean, and deposited by the ceaseless action of tide. The evidences of this are, first, the fact that the soil is of the same alluvial character that appears on the banks of the river above ; secondly, from the several ridges, or undulations, which curve precisely with the shore of the ocean, and all of which appear to have successively formed the boundary of the deep ; and, thirdly, from the fact, that shells and other marine substances are found deeply embedded in the sands thus deposited, in a perfect state of petrifaction. But it is only necessary lor a man to walk up from tide-water to the ridge near- est the ocean, and cast his eye over the gentle undula- tions of this tract, for him to become convinced that it has been redeemed from the v/aters of the Pacific. These remarks have been deemed important, in order to show the true nature of the soil of this important point of Oregon. It will be perceived that the foundation of the soil is sand. In some places this sand is bare, but even here, where the winds admit of vegetation taking root, its gi'owth shows clearly that this sand is far from being destitute of vegetative properties. On the plains, how- ever, this sand is covered with a black mould, which is from six to ten inches deep, and which doubtless has been formed by the cmistant decay of the various kinds of vegetation, which here grow in abundance. This black mould, with a portion of the sand beneath, forms a rich and productive soil, which, from its proximity to the ocean, and perhaps from the nature of the soil itscli", is til 340 OREGON TERRITORY. not SO well adapted to wheat, but produces potatoes, turnips, and indeed all kinds of vegetables in abundance. It is also tolerably well adapted to the raising of peas and oats. Cattle, horses and hogs thrive on this soil as well as in any part of Oregon. The bottom-lands of the Columbia, from the Cascades to the ocean, are subject to an annual inundation from the great rise of the river, occasioned by the melting of the VAst quantities of snow, which fall on its upper branches among the mountains. This fiood continues through the month of June and into July, so that whatever may be the fertility of the land thus overflown, but small portions of it, without immense labor and expense, will ever be brought to contribute greatly to the support of man. However, those portions of it which lie above high water, are remarkably fertile, and produce in abun- dance, all the grains and vegetables common to the best portions of the country. Fort Vancouver is situated on the most choice portion of this tract, and here a farm of two or three thousand acres is cultivated, and produces annually several thousand bushels of grain. Here also apples, pears and peaches are cultivated successfully ; with care the grape also is brought to a degree of per- fection. The uplands, or timbered lands, differ in some respects from the prairies. Though but few attempts have been made to cultivate them, yet sufficient has been done to prove that the soil is rather of a superior quality. And, indeed, this is attested by the immense growth of timber itself. No inferior soil could send forth those enormous trunks, which, in their upward progress, spread their magnificent branches to the skies, and often place their heads three hundred feet from the ground. Though the cost of clearing these lands is great, yet time will doubt- less cause the richness and fertility of this soil to contri- bute to the support of its future cultivators. The soil of the country around Puget's Sound is of a very different character. The country to appearance is beautiful. The prairies are extensive ; the harbor ia fine, and the scenery delightful ; but, strictly speaking OREGON TERRITORY. 341 there is no soil to the country. The prairies are all composed of shingle land, or small stone, or gravel, with- out scarcely any mixture of soil. Indeed, there are but few places, and these are very small spots, where any thing can be raised. Attempts have been made to redeem it from its native barrenness, but as yet all have failed. The Hudson's Bay Company transported some of their surplus population at Red river, on the east side oi the Rocky mountains, to this region ; but, in consequence of the amazing sterility of the country, they soon became discouraged, and, contrary to the wishes of the Company, they have abandoned the place and have rjettlod* else- where. This is sufficient to show the nature of the soil in this portion of the country. And in view of these facts, how has it come to pass that some persons after having visited this region, publish it as being distinguished alike for the salubrity of its climate and the fertility of its soin The climate indeed is delightful, but the soil is exceedingly forbidding, and cannot, perhaps, be re- covered from its extreme barrenness. Of all the different parts of Oregon, it is unquestionable that the Wallamette valley is entitled to be called the garden of the country, so far as the fertility of its soil is concerned. The close observer, in traveling through this valley, will discover several kinds of soil. On the lower, or first bottoms, in some places, a sandy soil appears, in others, a kind of black marl or loam. There is but httle difference in the productiveness of the two kinds. They both appear to be the alluvial deposits of the Wallamette river. On the second bottoms, or high prairies, as they are called in the country, the soil is a dark loamy clay, and is equally as strong and fertile as that on the lower grounds. Higher up the river, in the region of the Santa Am's fork, and embracing tracts of considerable extent, you come to a gravelly soil, which is less productive than any other in the valley. How- ever, this lart embraces but a small proportion of the valley. As the most of the country is embraced in the high prairies, there is much more of the clayey land than of any other kind. But the goodness of the soil is better mm" 342 OREGON TERRITORY. '■M ^■^^'' annua../ ascertained by examining the crops which are taken from thie land, '-y^' ;- ; : ., ^^"i- ;=. Pro- bably not more than one quarter of the whole population had cultivated the land in 1844, yet they were all sup- ported from the granaries of the (country ; fifteen thou- sand bushels of wheat were sliipped to the Russian settlements ; one thousand barrels of flour were ex- ported to the Sandwich Islands, and thousaiids of bushels yet remained in the country unconsumed. With these facts before us, it does not require half an eye to see that Oregon can and will compete with any other portion of the world, in supplying the islands of the racific, the Russian settlements, and every other flour market contiguous, with their bread stuffs, which usually bear, in these portions of the world, a handsome price. In connection with this it may be remarked that beef and pork can be raised in this country with greater ease and facility than wheat. And the climate of the country being favorable for salting and barreling, the time is not far distant when these articles also will be exported in abundance. The United States Nuvy and shipping in general in the Pacific, can be supplied with these artinlei 15 ■ i 340 ORKOON TERRITORY. '3h^*i'' ot" consumption from tliis country more reasonably, per haps, than from any other. Ah'cady there arc many settlers in this valley wiio have from two to five hundred head of cattle, and it is nothing strange for a man to be the owner of a hundred hogs. At p.. sent, however, from the great inllux of population, these kinds of pro- perty bear a high price in the country, but the time may be anticipated, when tiie home market will not be so extensive, and then the vast suppli-^s from this quarter must find an outlet. The facilities for lumbering in the country have already been presented ; and, in addition, it should be observed that, with the vast amount o/ salmon which maybe barreled annually, and the p^ '' . ts of dairies, for conducting which the country olfers the greatest facilities, the exports of Oregon, in proportion to the number of its inhabitants, may equal those of any portions of the United States. In this exhibition of the wealth and resources of Ore- gon, there is one more subject that ought not to be over- looked, viz: the facility with which a man comparatively poor, can place himself entirely above want. Individuals have, in some instances, arrived in this country in the month of September ; have settled imniediutely on some of the fine prairies, and with but little, except good health and sound limbs, have harvested, the following season, of their own sowing, from fifty to one hundred and fifty acres of wheat. And, indeed, there are few countries, perhaps none, in which a poor man, when once he has surmounted the difficulties of getting here, in which he can get a better living, and get it easier, than in this. Such is the testi- mony of every person who tries it for one or two years. But every country has its defects, and this is not entirely free from them. It is neither the garden of Eden, nor is it a barren desert. It does not " flow with honey," like the land of Canaan ; but in some places i« literally flows with milk. And, though it is no', a " land of wine, yet, in the more necessary articles of "coin acd oil/' it greatly abounds. ?» it onnaoN territory. 347 That it is a land of mountains and valleys, of rivers and streams, of mighty forests and extended prairies, of a salubrious and healthy climate, and a rich and productive soil, the foregoing remarks will clearly show. In fine, it is every way entitled to be called a good country. CHAPTER XVn. ..* Qrcfon temtoiy — Ita history — Spaninh diacoverica — Measures of the English — 8t< Francis Drake — Heceta — Isla of Grief— Bo. 350 OREGOlV TERRITORY. m perils of* the enterprise, finally reached Pameco in safety. This expedition had a two-fold object in view, which was, first, to discover wealthy nations to subjugate like those of Mexico and Peru, and, second, to ascertain whether there were no navigtible passages between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, somewhere north of the Mexican Gulf. Being defeated in both these objects, the Spaniards desisted from any farther efforts to explore the north-west coast of the American continent, and did not renew their efforts for nearly half a century afterwards. Though for the present they ceased to explore the north-west division of the New World, yet the comme^'ce of the Spaniards in the Pacific ocean was continually increasing, and their "Government was adopting those measures of restriction and exclusion which were main- tained with so little relaxation during the whole period of its supremacy in the American continent." * * * * The great object of its policy was to secure to the people of Spain the perpetual enjoyment of all the advan- tages which could be derived from the territories claimed by them, and, with that view, it was considered absolutely necessary, not only to prevent the establishment of for- eigners in any part of those territories, but also to dis- courage the rapid advancement of the Spanish provinces themselves, in population, wealth or other resources. Agreeably to these ideas, the settlement and even the exploring of new countries ir America, were restrained ; colonies were rarely allov.ed to be planted near the coast, unless they might serve for purposes of defence, and when voyages or journeys of discovery were made, the results were generally concealed by the government. The subjects of all foreign nations were prohibited, under pain of death, from touching the ssction of the New World supposed to belong to Spain, or from navigating the seas in its vicinity." About this time, 1570, the principles of civil and reli- gious liberty were beginning to operate in England. They no longer acknowledged the Pope of Rome as theii spiritual hea^, nor did they stand in tear of his fulmina- tions. And, though the successor of St. Peter hud OKEGON TERRITORY, 351 granted to Spain a great part of the American continent, and, as far as possible, had confirmed her in her posses- sions, yet the English murmured bitterly against these excluding regulations of the Spanish government, and required " an acknowledgment of their right to occupy vacant portions of America, and to trade with such as were already settled." These reasonable demands were refused by the Span- ish government, and the Queen of England encouraged hei subjects, openly and secretly, to violate laws which she declared to be unjustifiable and inhuman. Accord- ingly, on the Atlantic side of the continent, we see these restrictive laws immediately violated by bands of daring English, and, in the name oi free-traders and free-hooters, who set the Spaniards at defiance, plunder- mg their ships and some of their towns along the coast. From the reports concerning the importance of the com- merce of the Pacific, the English had long desired to share in its advantages, and at length all their dread of the difficulties and dangers of the passage through the strait of Magellan were overcome, and there appeared on the waters of the Pacific the most renowned naval captain of the age. This captain was Francis Drake j and, as an opinion has prevailed that he effected im- portant discoveries on the coast of Oregon, it will be proper to notice his movements while he remained on this coast. Mr. Greenhow in his able memoirs, has collected all the evidences of Drake's discoveries on this coast, and from an account of his voyage by his chaplain, and from nearly all the biographical sketches of the hero for a century after his voyage had been accomplished, and from the contradictions of those writers who attempt to establish the opposite, he arrives at the conclusion that " the English under Drake, in all probability saw no part of t-he west coast of America north of the forty- third degree of north latitude." Drake's visit to this coast took place in 1579, and proceeding as high up as the forty-third degree, and finding the weather cold and boisterous, and knowing <^l 352 OREGON TERRITORY. that his ship needed repairing before he could return to England, he turned about, and retracing his steps as far back as the thirty-eighth degree, entered the bay now called " San Francisco," where he spent the remainder of the winter. The following spring he put again to sea, and, by the way of China and the Cape of Good Hope, returned to England, where, immediately after his arrival, for his wonderful vova^je and marvelous exploits, he was knighted by Queen Elizabeth, on the deck of his own ship. Doubtless the character of Drake as a hero and a great navigator, is well founded ; but the assertion that he explored the whrls extent of this coast, and discovered the Columbia river, is a fabri- cation, and is entitled to no more credit than the fabled voyage of Maldorado from the north-west coast, acros the continent, into the Atlantic ocean. That Francis Drake is not entitled to the credit o\ being the first discoverer of the coast as far up as tin foriy-third degree, appears from an account of a voyage, performed by Cabrillo and Ferrelo, two Spaniards, in 1543, thirty-six years before the voyage of Drake. In the month of March they sailed to the forty-fourth degree, and in consequence of the suffering of their crews from cold, fatigue, and want of proper nourish- ment, they resolved to proceed no farther northward, and accordingly directed their course towards the south. * These were probably the first white men that ever saw any of the land embraced in the territory of Oregon, and they saw only about two degrees of the coast, at the south-west corner. The next discoveries of importance made on the coast of Oregon, were by a Spanish navigator, by the nr;r>ie of Heceta, in 1774. He was sent by the viceroy of Mexico from San Bias, to explore the coast north of the forty-third parallel, and succeeded in reaching a high up as the fifty-fourth degree, where he made land probably the north-west part of Queen Charlotte's Island From this point he turned southward, entered a fine ba' * See Greenhow's Memoirs. OREGON TERRITORY. 355 in latitude forty-nine and one-half, and proceeding down along the coast, saw land occasionally, but does not appear to have minutely examined the shore, and arrived at Monterey on the 27th of August. The following year another expedition was fitted out, and Heceta was intrusted with the command. He pro- ceeded northward, touched at port Trinidad in latitude forty-one, where he communicated with the natives, and, on leaving, erected a cross with an inscription set- ting forth the rights of the Spanish government to the country discovered. From this point he continued north as high as the forty-eighth or forty-ninth degree, then turned east, and soon saw land, which was probably the south-west side of Vancouver's Island, at the entrance of the Strait of Fuca. Not being able to examine this part of the coast, they were driven southward to within eighty miles of the Columbia river, where they came to anchor inside of a small island, near the mam land. Here they met with a cruel misfortune. They sent some of their men on shore to search for water, and while in the discharge of their duty, they were surrounded by savages and irjime- diately murdered. As they were numerous, the Js-dians immediately put off in their canoes to the ships, evidently with the intention of taking them and destroying the crews. But the Spaniards finally succeeded in prevent- ing them from boarding ; and on their departure, in commemoration of tie event, the inland was called the Isle of Grief. At the same place, and in the same man- ner, twelve years afterwards, some of the crew of an English ship were destroyed, and by them the island was called Dostruction Island. After this disaster, Ileceta contin jed southward along the coast, and disco- vered the promontory which now bears the name of Cape Disappointment, but which the Spaniards called Cape San Roque. Directly south of this, and under the parallel of forty-six degrees sixteen minutes, he saw an opening in the land, which appeared to be a harbor, or the mouth of some river. As Heceta did not enter this harbor, the existence of the rver subsequently was 15* 354 OREGON TERRITORY. iS^^ 4 I It f ■ r more a matter of conjecture than of certainty, though it was put down on the Spanish maps by the name of Rio de San Roque. From these circumstances, it is at least inferable that Heceta and his companions were the first civilized men that ever saw the Columbia river. During the same year, 1775, another Spanish naviga- tor, by the name of Bodega, made the Oregon coast about thirty miles south of the mouth of the Columbia. The land first seen by them was the high promontory now known by the name of Kilemook Head ; but which the Spaniards called Cape Mizari. Bodega examined the coast, from this point to Cape Mendocino, in search of a large river, said to have been seen by Aguilar, in 1603. But not succeeding in his attempts, he took his departure from this part of the coast and returned to Monterey. The next discoveries on the Oregon coast were made by the celebrated Captain James Cook, an English navi- gator, in 1778. This enterprising man left England early in the summer of 1777, and arrived on the Ameri- can coast in March, 1778. The primary object of his voyage was the discovery of a north-west passage from the Pacific ocean to the Atlantic, an object which long engaged the attention of England and Spain. To accom- plish this object, he was to explore the whole extent of coast, from the forty-fifth degree as far north as the weather and ice would allow him to proceed. He first made land near the forty-second degree of latitude ; but by the violence of storms, was driven still farther to the south. However, the wind becoming more favorable, he proceeded on his course to the northward, and on the 22d of March, he found himself in sight of the coast a little beyond the forty-eighth degree. The land here discovered by Cook was the projecting point of the con- tinent at the entrance of the strait of Juan De Fuca, to which he gave the name of Cape Flattery, and which is the north-west corner of Oregon territory. Cook ex- amined the coast a few miles south of this point ; but not succeeding in his object her 2. he soon continued north, and in latitude forty-nine and a half, cast anchor in a OREGON TERRITORY. 355 Hpacious and secure harbor, to which he subsequently gave the name ot" Nootka Sound. Here he continued several weeks, during which he held constant intercourse with the Indians, who appeared to be no strangers to white men ; and after making the necessary repairs, and taking in wood, water and refreshments, he again steered to the northward to buflet the ice and storms of the Arctic Ocean, in a vain attempt to discover a north-west passage. Thus terminated his discoveries on the Oregon coast. He was subsequently basely murdered by the natives of Hawaii. It is worthy of remark, that this usually fortunate navi- gator and discoverer was driven past the mouth of the Columbia river, by a storm, during the night. There seems to have been but little notice taken of the Oregon coast during the ten years which followed the discoveries of Cook, though at this time the coast farther north was verv well known. As Nootka Sound was known to be a good harbor, after Cook's account of his voyage was made public, vessels, in visiting this region, generally steered their course for that place. But in 1788, Captain John Meares, an Englishman, fitted out an expedition at Macao for the purpose of discovering the harbor, or river, or rather opening, which was first seen by Heceta, in 1775, and subsequently noticed on the Spanish maps, by the name of the Rio De San Roque. The principal object that Meares had in view, on this part of the coast, was to ascertain whether there was such a river in existence ; and the account which he has given of his discoveries, at this point, will show the un- reasonableness of the claims of the English, to be the first to ascertain the fact of the existence of the Columbia river. In latitude forty-six degrees and forty-seven minutes, he discovered a head-land which he called Capo Shoal Water, and proceeding south along the coast^ he says — *'An high bluflf promontory bore us off south-east, at the distance of only four leagues, for which we steered to double, with the hope that between it and Cape Shoal Water, we should find some sort of harbor. We now discovered distant land beyond this promontory, and wa 356 OREGON TERRITORY. pleased ourselves with the expectation of its being Cdpe Saint Roc of the Spaniards, near which they are said to have found a good port. By half-past eleven we doubled this Cape at the distance of three miles, having a clear and perfect view of the shore in every part, on which we did not discern a living creature, or the least trace of habitable life. A prodigious easterly swell rolled on the shore, and the soundings gradually decreased from forty to sixteen fathoms, over a hard sandy bottom. After we had rounded the promontory, a large bay, as we had imagined, opened to our view, that bore a very promising appearance, and into which we steered with every encouraging expectation. " The high land that formed the boundaries of the bay was at a great distance, and a flat level country occupied the intervening space ; the bay itself took rather a west- erly direction. As we steered in, the water shoaled to nine, eight, and seven fathoms, when breakers were seen from the deck right ahead, and from the mast-head they were observed to extend across the bay ; we, therefore, hauled out and directed our course to the opposite shore, to see if there was any channel, or if we could discover any port. " The name of Cape Disappointment was given to the promontory, and the bay obtained the title of Deception bay. By an indifferent meridian observation, it lies in the latitude of forty-six degrees and ten minutes north, and in the computed longitude of 235 degrees and 34 minutes east. We can now with safety assert, that there is no such river as that of Saint Roc exists, as laid down in the Spanish charts." It follows, from this account of Captain Meares, first, that he became fully convinced, from personal observa- tion, that no great river entered the Pacific ocean from the American continent at this point. And, second, that no such river had previously been discovered by English navigators, and that the assertion, that " the Columbia was discovered by Captain, afterwards Sir Francis Drake," must be totally unfounded. For, if the latter caotain had made this discovery, the fact must have been OREGON TERRITORY. 357 Known by Captain Meares, and he would not have been 80 ready to decide that *' no such river exists." The truth appears to be this — up to the year 1788, it was not known by any civihzed nation, that the great Colum- bia had an existence on the face of the globe. The citizens of the United States appear to have taken no part in the discoveries on the north-west coast, and in the trade opened by such discoveries previously to the year, 1788. At that time a company of merchants from Boston, sent two ships around Cape Horn, commanded respectively by Captain Robert Gray and Captain John Kendrick. The names of these vessels were, the Columbia and Washington. These were the first American ships that visited the north-west coast. After weathering a violent storm in which the Columbia, which Kendrick com- manded, received some injury, they proceeded to Nootka Sound, where both vessels spent the winter. The object of this expedition was to collect the fine and aluable furs with which the country abounds, and ship nem to Canton. While these two American ships were in this part of the ocean, there was considerable difficulty between the Spaniards and the English, in reference to which had the best right to the country in the vicinity of Nootka Sound. n the settlement of this difficulty, the American captains ook an active and efficient part, and from an under- standing of the whole affair, were of the opinion that, from a previous discovery and occupancy, the Spanish claims were well founded, and that the possession of the country was an unjustifiable arrogancy upon the part of the British. But it is no part of the object of this sketch ro investisjate the subject of these conflicting claims. The Columbia and Washington continued on the coast until the month of August, 1789, when it was determined between them, that Captain Gray should take the command of the Columbia and proceed to China and the United States, with all the furs which had been collected, and Kendrick should remain on the coast iu the Washington. jf 358 OREGON TISRRRITORY. iii Gray accomplished this voyage in sa.ctj, and on tho 27th day of September, 1790, again left Boston in tiie same ship for the north-west coast, and sometime in May of 1791, made land a little to the north of Cape Mendocino, or near the forty-first degree of north lati- tude. While proceeding northward towards Nootka, Cap- tain Gray discovered an opening in the shore of consider- able width in latitude forty-six degrees sixteen minutes, from which issued a strong current which prevented hjs entrance. He continued off against this opening for nine days, with an intention, if possible, to enter it, but the strength of the current and probably from the appearance of the breakers which previously had frightened Meares, he was unable at this time to accomplish his object. Though convinced that he had discovered the mouth of a great river, without waiting longer for an oppor- tunity to enter it, he proceeded to the north, and in June arrived at Nootka Sound. From this point Gray continued his course north, and after making some im- f)ortant discoveries in the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's sland, returned to Clyoquot, near Nootka, where he continued during the winter. Captain Kendrick in the meantime had stayed on the coast, and about the timo that Gray went into winter quarters, he set sail for the Sandwich Islands, where he first opened a traffic with the natives, in the article of sandal-wood. Though Kendrick first opened this trade, he did not long live to enjoy the benefit of his discovery, but in 1793, was mur- dered by the Islanders. In the spring of 1792, the discoveries on the coast of Oregon were prosecuted both by the English ano Americans. In the middle of April, Captain Vancouver arrived on the coast with two ships under his command, and commencing at Cape Mendocino, explored the whole extent of coast, as he proceeded to the north, and passed the opening which Gray attempted to enter in latitude forty-six degrees sixteen minutes, without considering it as being worthy of his particular attention, on account of the forbidding appearance which it presented. In his progress northward he says, that, " the coast was so OREGOr TERRITORY. 359 minutely examined that the surf was constantly seen to break on its sh ires from the mast-head. And yot, that he saw no apj 'arance of an opening in its shores, which presented any certain prospect of aflorv'jg shelter.' Ou his way up the coast he I'eii in with the ship Colum- bia, Captain Gray, who had just loll his wintering place at Clyoquot. In their interview, Gray informed Van- couver that the previous summer he had been off the mouth of a river in latitude forty-six degrees ten minutes, where the outset was so strong as to prevent his entering for nine days. In referring to this, Vancouver saya, that "this was probably the opening passed by us on the forenoon of the 27th, and was apparently inaccessible, not from the cw pnt, but from the breakers that extend across it.'' Hu also obs* rves that he was thoroughlv convinced, as were most persons on board, that he could not have passed any harb )r or 'ace of security for shipping, from Cape Mendocino to . ape Flattery. From this it appears that Captain Vancouver did not yet believt that such a river as was represented by Gray, had any existence. And under this impression he proceeded on to the north, while Gray, to assure him- self of the reality of his discovery of a great river, resolved, if possible, to enter it with his ship. While proceeding southward he entered a harbor, which he called Bulfinch's Harbor ; but passing on, arrived, on the 11th of May, 1792, opposite the bay which Meares called the Bay of Deception, imme^liately south of Cape Disappointment, and in latitude forty-six degrees *en minutes north. 'Though the breaker^ presented a formi- dable obstacle before them, and they did not know jut that they were rushing to inevitable destruction, yet Captain Gray and his gallant comrades dashed bravely on, and discovering a narrow passage through the break- ers, passed them in safety, and as Gray had anticipated, found themselves in a large river of fresh water, up which they proceeded the distance of twenty miles. The point at which they arrived, was probably the nar row and shallow channel known by the name of Tongue f oint Channel, and which is difficult to pass, though the 360 OREGON TERRITORY. river is well known. The natives flocked around the strangers and manifested the utmost surprise, at what they saw and heard. A traffic was opened with them m which furs were received from the Indians, in ex- change for coarse goods ; and after having continued in the river eight days, making repairs, trading with the natives, exploring the river, and taking observations of the surrounding country. Captain Gray again passed the breakers at the entrance, through the intricate channel, prepared to announce to the world the most important discovery that was ever made on the north-west coast. Before taking his departure. Captain Gray bestowed the name of his vessel upon the majestic river which he had discovered, calling it the Columbia, a name which, in honor of the generous captain who bestowed it, and of the gallant ship that first anchored in its waters, it should forever retain. The high promontory on the north side of the entrance, which was called Cape Disappointment, by Meares, in token of his unsuccessful search, by Captain Gray was called Cape Hancock, and the low point on the south side Cape Adams. It has been asserted by one writer, that the existence of this river was long known before Gray or Vancouver visited it. * Doubtless, it was known by the Indian tribes that lived upon its banks, but if any white man ever saw it he was not permitted to survive to tell of his discovery. From a survny of the whole ground, it appears clearly that Captain Robert Gray is entitled to the credit Of being the original discoverer of this great river of Oregon ; a river which, when viewed as the only convenient or practicable channel to and from one of the most extensive and fertile valleys in North America, will bear comparison with almost any river in the world. From the mouth of this river, Gray returned to the north, and in the vicinity of Queen Charlotte's Island, while his vessel was under full sail, she struck a rock and received so great an injury that she was near * Aaioria. OREGON TERUITOnV. 361 foundering, but he finally succeeded in getting her into Nooika Sound, when his damage was soon repaired. Gray found at this place a S{)aniard who had the com- mand of the establishment, and to him he immediately communicated the results of his examinations, and par- ticularly his discovery of the Columbia river, which proved a very fortunate circumstance, for he thereby obtained an unimpeachable witness in his favor. Ho continued in this region a few months actively employed in his trade with the natives, and other business, and in the ensuing fall took his final departure from the north- west coast. In a discussion of the conflicting claims of the two governmcntti, it had been arranged between the Spanish and Englisli, that the former should surrender to the latter the country lying around the Nootka Sound, and Captain Vancouver was the commissioner from England to receive the surrender. The negotiations between Vancouver and the Spanish commissioner took place while Gray aj»d other American captains were on the coast. The contest which was carried on betweei; the two parties, however interesting, would be too tedious to introduce here. Suffice it to say. the place was not surrendered nor does it appear that the Spanish flag was ever struck to the British at Nootka Sound. Be this as it may, in the month of October, Vancouver left Nootka with his three vessels, the Discovery, Chatham, and Doedalus, liaving procured from Quadra, the Spanish commissioner, copies of the charts and descriptions of Gray, and proceeded southward to satisfy himself of the correctness of Gray's representations. Whidby in the Doedaius w^as sent to explore Bulfinch's Harbor, while Vancouver proceeded with the other vessels to the mouth of the Columbia. Vancouver's own ship, the Discovery, was not able to enter the river, and he there • fore proceeded on to the Bay of San Francisco. But the Chatham, under Lieutenant Braughton, succeeded, with great difficulty, in crossing the bar. He foiind lying at anchor in the bay the brig Jenny, from Bristcl, which hud left Nootka a few days previous The Chatham I i ) .'<■ -J 5 362 OREGON TERRITORY, ran aground soon after entering, and Braughton, frora the intricacy of the channel, resolved to leave her about four miles within the bar and proceed up the river in a boat. Accordingly he set out, and thoroughly examin- ing every part oi the river, he penetrated to the distance of about ninety-six nnles from the month, where the river takes a bend and where the strength of the current was such as to induce them to retuni. This bend or point in the. river, they called Point Vancoaver. Return- ing to their ship they gave a bay on the north side of the river, the name of Gray's Bay, but the bay back of Cape Disappointment, they called Baker's Bay, after the cap- tain of the brig Jenny. Having remained in the river twenty days, on the 10th of November they again crossed the bar, and pro- ceeded south to join Vancouver in the bay of San Fran- cisco,. With the iisual avariciousness of English aristo- crats, Braughton, before his departure, formally took possession of the river and of the country in the vicinity^ m the nanie of his Britanic Majesty, " Having evejy reason to believe that the subjects of no other cimlized nation or state had ever entered this river before ;^' an act of justice the like of which the subjects of Great Britain are ever ready to perform towards American citizens. At the bay of San Francisco, Braughton and Whidby reported the result of their observations to Vancouver, and the former was dispatched to England, while the latter proceeded to the Sandwich Islands, Vancouver never again returned to the coast of Ore gon, though he subsequently explored minutely the region round about Cook's Inlet. However, he sailed south as far as Nootka, from which place he took his departure for En^rland, where he arrived in August, 1795, having been absent more thar* four years. Braughton having been elevated to the rank of Cap- tain, was again sent by the British government to the Pacific, and arrived on the coast of Nootka in the spring of 1796, empowered to receive the surrender of the place from the Spa i!:h, but found it entirely abandoned by tlic whites, a*, J iu the possession of savages, under tin? ^^^^^AiiQXXW OREGON TERRITORY. i!63 ''' ^l treacnerous, cruel and notorious Maquinna. It should ixi oDserved that Nootka Sound is on the west side of Vancouver's Island, consequently it does not properly V jlong to the coast of Oregon. lure ring 'ap- the ring llace by the 'hi ^ "I .^MU^iMliii V'^ ^v• »\c«uiw«H«B«naH^inmpiBB|ia^^ ■jf^^C- »;~';-'V CHAPTER XVIII. Oregon territory— History continued— European nations involved in war— Pacific trad* carried by ilie Great Republic— Ship Boston slezed ^ Indians— Land Expedi- tions—Captain Jonailian Carv^er—Sir Alexander >».,..';.-— Lewis and Ciark— Project of John Jacob Actor— Captaiii Thorn and the Tomjuin McDoiigai awl Concomley— Fate ol the Tomjuin— Wilson Price Hunt — Depression at thend the first winter of their cam- paign. In the spring oi' 1805, these indefatigable men continued their course up the Missouri to its sources in the Rocky Mountains ; passed the stupendous gates of that mighty chain, and on the other side came to a river which flowed to the westward- They followed it down until it became a broad and noble river, and on the 7th of October, embarked in canoes, and in a few days found themselves at the confluence of two splendid rivers, which proved to be the two great branches of the Colum- bia. The branch they descended, which was the south branch, they called the Lewis, and tlie north tliey dis- tinguished by the name of Clark. Continuing their downward course they successively passed the I* alls of the Columbia, the Dalls, the Cascades, below which they began to be afft cted by the rise and fall of the tide, and knowing by this that they must be drawing near the ocean they passed on, and on the 15th day of November, 1805, landed at Cape Disappointment, on the north side of the mouth of the Columbia. As the rainy season was setting in they examined the country on both sides of the river, with a view to find a suitable place to make their encampment for the winter. They accordhigly built a ft^rt on the south side, not far from an Indian village, ana called it Fort ClaUsop, after the name of the Indian tribe. Here they spent an agreeable winter, and as the weather would admit, explored the surrounding coyntr3\ The salvages were peaceable, and assisted in procuring them food, such as the river and sea attbrdeil, of which there was no lack. Here thev continued until the 13th dav of March, at which time, having madn the necessary prepai-ations, they commenced their long and toilsome journey back to the United States. They ascended the rivex in caiioes as far as they could, on account of the 368 OREGOIt TEKRITOKT. rapids, and then resolved to proceed by land. They divided themselves into two parties, with the design of re-crossing the Rocky Mountains by two different routes. That under Lewis took nearly a due eafit course to the Fulls of the Missouri, while that under Clark took a more southern route to the head waters of the Yellow Stone, and the two parties were to unite at the junction of these rivers. In the month of August, the parties again united, according to ao^reement, and passing down the Missouri, arrived at St. Louis on the 23d of September, 1806, after an absence of two years and six months. The journey of Lewis and Clark was one of discovery, and the first performed by white men across the territory of Oregon. The information which the account of these gentlemen gave to the people of the States, was received with great interest, and contributed to hasten the settle- ment of the north-west boundary question between the territories of Great Britain and those of the United States, as far west as the Rocky Mountains ; and also to induce private individuals to extend their trade with the Indians bevond that chain. In 1806, the British fur-traders of the north made their first establishment on the west side of the mountains. Mr. Simon Frazer, of the North- West Company, estab- lished himself on Frazer's Lake, near the fifty-fourth degree of north latitude, in a country since called by the English, New Caledonia. But the first establishment of the kind which was made on the waters of the Columbia, and within the limits of Oregon, was that of Manuel Lisa, a Spaniard, who was a member of the Missouri Fur Company, which was formed at St. Louis, in 1808. This was made on the head waters of Lewis' river, and was placed under the immediate direction of Mr. Henry, but, in consequence of the difliculty of obtaining supplies, and the continued hostility of the savages around, it was given up in 1810. At this time was formed the magnificent project of John Jacob Astor, of New York, in reference to a trading establishment at the mouth of the Columbia river. The Company of which this distinguished merchant wai ■II u OREGON TERRITORY. 369 ct of ading river, waj the chief support, as well as the principal direcloi, was formed in 1810, and called the Pacific Fur Company. Among the individuals that Mr. Astor admitted to a partnership in the company, were a number who had formerly belonged to the British fur companies, and being acquainted with the trade, Mr. Astor considered them a valuable acquisition. A gentleman, however, from New Jersey, by the name of Wilson Price Hunt, was to be the principal agent in the establishment. Other posts were to be established also, as circum- stancc£i would admit. It was designed to send ships around Cape Horn to the Columbia, laden with articles of Indian trade, which were to be exchanged for furs, and these were to be sent to China and exchanged for goods that would suit the markets of the United States. The plan was well laid, and but for opposing circum- stances which no sagacity, however penetrating, could previously discover, and over which the originator could have no control, it doubtless would have succeeded to admiration. The first ship which was sent out was the ^'onquin, which was commanded by Jonathan Thorn. McDougal, McKay, and one or two others, who were partners and clerks, went in her. They left New York in September, 1810, and on the 22d day of March arrived at the mouth of the Columbia river. As they approached the mouth, they discovered that the water broke in dreadful surges across the bar, and there appeared to be no possibility of effecting an entrance. And now began the heart-rending sufferings of that ill-filled crew. Captain Thorn sent off* a boat to explore the entrance under one of his officers by the name of Fox. Fox at first declined, but the Captain insisted, and finally Fox consented by saying, " Yes, I will go and lay my bones by the side of those of my father, who was lost at this pkce but a few years ago." The party started off', and the boat passing over the mountain waves, slowly sepa- rated from the ship. Night came on, but the boat did not return. Another, but no boat ; the ship in the mean- time standing off" and on. The utmost anxiety prevailed 16 if ?■■ E;i^ i ■I: :iaiK-a3aafe.;v- «SS?^ 370 OREGON TERRITORY. on board. What should be done? Another boat wa» sent otr to look for the former, and also to find the en- trance. Two persons belonging to the latter boat only, survived to tell the story that all tlieir companions were lost. They perished, amid the breakers at the entrance of the river ; and thus was given the remainder of the crew, a most solemn v/arning of the more tragic fate which awaited them. Soon after this disaster the weather became more favorable, and the Tonquin passed the bai- and came to anchor in Baker's Bay. After McDougal and others had examined the country round about, the site they pitched upon for the establishment of their post was about ten miles up the river, and on the south side. They built a trading house, a!id inclosed it with pickets, and gave it the name of " Astoria," after the name of the projector of the enterprise. Soon after tiiey arrived, the partners crossed the river to visit Comcomly, the chief of the Chenooks. When they got ready to leave to return to the fort, the wind was high, and the water in the bay was rough. Comcomly endeavored to dissuade them from crossing, but they resolved to make the attempt. The wary chief, however, sprang into his canoe with several of his men, and kept close along by the boat as she came into the high swells, believing that she would not endure the sea. His fears were well grounded, for scarcely had they started when the boat capsized, and the partners and their men were struggling in the water for life. Com- Gomly, however, was immediately among them in his canoe, and rescued them from a watery grave. They were now willing to si ly with the chief till tiie storm abated, which took place soon afterward, and they returned to the fort. McDougal was to be the head of the concern until the arrival of Mr. Hunt. After considerable difficulty between Captain Thorn and the gentlemen of the estab- lishment, the goods designed for Astoria were landed, and the ship proceeded northward for the purpose of .rafficking with the Indiam J^long the coast. McKay II 3f, he ey [of ay OREGON TERRITORY, 871 V'cnt in her as supercargo, and Mr. Lewis as clerk. The whole number of persons on board was twenty- three, besides an Indian, who accompanied theni as interpreter. The ship proceeded to Vancouver's Island, and came to anchor in the harbor of Nittinat. Some of the natives came on board, but as it was too late in the day to traflick, McKay went on shore to see the chief, whose name was Wicananish, and six of the Indians reniained on board as hostages. McKay was received with great professions of friendship by the chief, and a number of sea otter-skins were spread for his bed. In the morning great numbers of the Indians came off to the ship, apparently to trade, headed by two sons of the chief, and bringing with them great quantities of fur. The fur was spread upon the deck, and the goods were also displayed before the Indians by the unsuspecting crew. The bantering, which is peculiar to Indian traffick, commenced, and all for a few moments seemed to go on well ; but at a concerted signal given by the chiefs, the knives, war-clubs, and tomahawks, which the savages had contrived to secrete about their persons, were at once displayed, the crew were imme- diately overpowered, and nearly all of them butchered upon the deck. Mr. Lewis, the clerk, and some others had succeeded in getting into the hold of the vessel, near the powder magazine, and Lewis had told the interpreter that he intended to blow up the ship, and in this way to avenge his own death, and that of his companions. The ship was now in the full possession olf the savages, who thronged her deck and were clambering up her sides, all intent upon securing their prize, and unconscious of the terrible fate which awaited them and which thev so well deserved. At length the magazine was fired, and a scene which beggars description was then pre- sented. The ship was torn to atoms, and the decks in '»roken fragments, mingled with shivered boxes, barrels, guns, and the dissevered limbs, heads, and trunks of savages, were blown high into the air, and falling upon the dark and agitated waters, presented the most gloomy picture of desolation. At the time of the explosion, the i 373 OREGON TERRITORY. interpreter was in the main chains, and was thrown un- hurt into the waters, where he succeeded in getting into one of the canoes which were floating tenantless in the bay, and in this he went ashore and finally got back to Astoria in safety, and from him tho story of the fate of the Tonquin is known. In January, 1811, Mr. Wilson Price Hunt, who had been appointed general agent of the concern on the Columbia, set out from St. Louis to cross the Rocky Mountains, and after he and his companions endured the most incredible sutferings from colcl, fatigue, and want of food, they arrived at Astoria in the spring of 1812. Soon after they arrived, the shocking intelligence of the destruction of the Tonquin and her unfortunate crew, reached Astoria, and threw the whole establishment into the most gloomy forebodings. The disaster was calcu- lated to depress the spirits and destroy the hopes of the persons engaged in the enterprise. But the arrival of the ship Beaver, from New York, which brought out supplies and reinforcements, encouraged the Astorians and they resolved to prosecute vigorously their enter prise. It was determined that Mr. Hunt shodd leave the river in the Beaver, and go to the northward, for the purpose of advancir g the interests of the company in that region. Astoria was left under the direction of Mr. Duncan McDougal, who had long been in the service of the North West Company. In January, 1813, the news of the declaration of war by the United States against Great Britain, reached Astoria by persons who had been sent by Mr. Astor from New York for that purpose, and served to darken the prospects of the company. On the 15th of July, Mr. David Thompson arrived at Astoria. This gentleman was a partner in the North West Company, and it appears that he designed to antici- pate Mr. Astor in the occupancy of the mouth of the Columbia, but, to his disappointment, found the American Company already in full possession. Whatever was his object, he was doubtless the first person that descended from near its source, the nor*b branch of the Columbia. 1 azB ■f:.ii OREGON TERRITORV, 373 About this time the Astorians received information that a British naval force was on its way to taite possession of the mouth of the river, which appeared to be a source of satisfaction to McDougal and other British subjects wlio were connected with him, some of whom imme- diately left the service of the Pacific Company and went over to the rival association. One of the persons that quitted the service of Mr. Astor was Ross Cox, who subsequently published a narrative of six years' residence on the Columbia. At this time, which was in the month of January, 1813, nearly all the persons in the establishcncnt at As- toria agreed to abandon the enterprise, unless they should speedily receive more supplies and assistance from New York. Months passed awav, but no assistance from New York arrived. Mr. Astor nad dispatched the ship Lark, for Astoria, with abundant supplies of men and property ; but she was unfortunately wrecked on a coral reef, near the coast of one of the Sandwich Islands, and thus added another to the uncontrollable circumstances which served to hasten the dissolution of the company. From the representations of Mr. Astor, the govern ment of the United States had resolved to send a frigate to the North Pacific, to succor and protect the infant settlement at the mouth of the river ; but as the naval operations on Lake Erie and Lake Ontario began to assume a decidedly important character, it was necessary to d'ispatch the men designed for the Pacific enterprise to that quarter ; and the fact that the American ports were blockaded by British fleets, rendered it impossible to convey any farther succors to Astoria. Accordingly, the partners of the Pacific Company, at Astoria, resolved to abandon the enterprise and provide for their safety, as th iy began to fear that they might be attacked by the British, who were already establishing themselves on the upper waters of the Columbia. A short time after the partners came to this conclusion, Mr. Hunt, the chief agent, returned to Astoria. During his absence he had visited the Russian settlements at Sitka, Unalashka and Kodiak, had collected a cargo of valuable IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) WJ.A y, ^n / 'e, 1.0 I.I UUS |2.S |50 ■'^" ■■■ 1^'^ 111112.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 iLn\ in that case, the country would never have been (divided ; long before this time, the whole of Oregon V ould have been in the peaceable possession of the citi- z* ns of the United States. But the circumstances which n«'litated against the success of this mighty project, were ni.rely providential, and such as no prudence or foresight in its originator could have possibly guarded against. Though defeated in its ulterior objects, it opened the way to Oregon to American citizens, and supplied the means, in the interesting journals of those who were connected with the enterprise, for Washington Irving to awaken an interest in the American public, in relation to Oregon, that has gone oh increasing until the present time. CHAPTER XIX. Ongon temtory — History cop.iinu«d — Astoria rentored ro the Americans — Da- Nfipiion ol the Fort — North West Company remain in the country — Riva- companies — Hudson's Bay Company — How formed — Extent of its operationi — War between the two companies — Both merged in one — The Honorable Hudson's Bay Company — Policy of the company — Number and situation of trading forts — Immense power of the company — Colonizing tlie country — Sir George Simpson's Colony — Setilemeuis— Foj-t Vancouver— Gentlemen of the Fort — Perils of the fur-trade — A thrilling tragedy. According to the first article of the treaty of Ghent, which provided " that all territory, places and posses- sions whatsoever, taken by either party from the other, during, or after the war, should be restored without delay," measures were taken by the United States Government to re-occupy the post at the mouth of the Columbia river. In 1S17, Captain J. Biddle and J. B. Prevost were commissioned to proceed to the Columbia, and there to assert the claim of the United States to the sovereignty of the country. These gentlemen sailed from New York in the sloop^f-war Ontario, on the 4th of October, 1817. The British Government, hearing of the departure of th? Ontario for the Columbia, dispatched an order to the agents of the North West Company directing them to give every facility in their power tc the agents of the United States Government, for the re-occupation of Port George, as a place that had been captured during the war, and to be restored according to the above article in the treaty of Ghent. Captain Biddle entered the mouth of the Columbia in August, 1818, and on the 19th of the same month, the flag of tlie United States was again floating over the stockades of old Astoria. But a more formal surrendering of the place by Great Britain and occupation of it by the United OREGON TERRITORY. 377 States, tooh place the following October. On the first day of this month, the British frigate Blossom, Captain Hikey, arrived in the Columbia, bringing Mr. Prevost, who had left the Ontario in Chili, to attend to some business there, and who was empowered to receive the nurrender of the place from the constituted British authorities. Captain Hikey and James Keith, the latter of whom was the superintendent of the North Wesi Company at that time, were the persons appointed to deliver up the settlement in due form. The following is the instrument by which the country captured by the British, at the mouth of the Columbia, reverted to the United States : *' In obedience to the commands of his Royal High- ness the Prince Regent, signified in a dispatch from the right honorable the Earl Bathurst, addressed to the partners or agents of the North West Company, bearing date the 27th of January, 1818, and in obedience to a subsequent order, dated the 26th of July, from W. H. Shireff, Esq., captain of his majesty's ship Andromache, we, the undersigned, do, in conformity to the first article of the treaty of Ghent, restore to the government of the United States, through its agent, J. B. Prevost, Esq., the settlement of Fort George, on the Columbia river. Given under o;^r hands in triplicate, at Fort George, (Columbia River), this 6lh day of October, 1818. " F. Hikey, Capt. of his Majesty's ship Blossom. " J. Keith, of the North West Company." Mr. Prevost accepted this delivery in the following lans^uaijre : " I do hereby acknowledge to have this day received, in behalf of the government of the United States, the possession of the settlement designated above, in con- formity to the first article of the treaty of Ghent. Given under my hand in triplicate, at Fort George? (Columbia River), this 6th of October, 1818. " J. B. Prevost, agent for the United States.'^' . This transaction took place in 1818, and as Fort George had then been in the possession of the North West Company for more than lour years, the trade of 16* 37ft OREGON TERRITOnV. that company on the Columbia had become firmly ej«tpb- lished. The fort at that time consisted of a stockade, inclosing a parallelogram of one hr ndred and fifty feet by two hundred and fifty feet, extending in its greatest length from north-west fo south-east. Within this inclo- sure were all the buildings attached to the establishment, such as dwelling-houses, stores, mechanic' shops, &c. On the fort were mounted two eighteen-pounders, four four-pounders, two six-pound cohorns, and seven swivels. The number of persons belonging to the factory, besides a few women and children, were sixty-five, of whom twenty-three were whites, twenty-six Sandwich Island ers, and the remainder persons of mixed blood froni Canada. In the restitution of i jrt George by Mr. Keith, to the Americans, it was understood that the North West Company would continue their occupancy of the country, and traffick therein according to the pro- visions of the article of agreement entered into between the United States and Great Britain, in October, 1818 ; which was, " That any country that may be claimed by either party on the north-west coast of America, west- ward of the Stony Mountains, shall, together with its harbors, bays, and creeks, and the navigation of all rivers within the same, bo free and open for the term of ten years, to the vessels, citizens, and subjects of the two powers." The history of Oregon from 1814 to 1834, is embraced in the history of those rival companies of fi» -traders, which have extended their operations, from tlaio to time, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Vancouver's Island, and from New Spain to the country of the Esquimaux. To give a particular account of these companies would require volumes ; a brief survey, therefore, must suflice. While the French merchants of Quebec and Montreal were, by their agents, exploring the immense forests op both sides of the great lakes, and ransacking the extended prairies of the West and the valley of the Mississippi, in quest of the rich and valuable furs with which the wilds of North America abounded, and were furnishing France ftiid oUi^u* European countiies with the precious luxury, OREGON TERRITORV. S70 the avails of which constituted their immense wcnltls, a rival power ushered into being a corporation which i? now grasping the supreme dominion of the forest north of the United States, from the coast of Labrador to tho Pacific Ocean, and exercising an iron despotism, not only over the numerous persons who are in its employ, but also over many of the Indian tribes residing within the limits of ite jurisdiction. For a number of centuries the government of Great Britain made the most extraor- dinary efforts to discover a north-west passage from tho Atlantic to the Pacific, during which Baffin and Hudson explored the two bays, which now bear their names. From the accounts given, the opinion was entertained that the communication could be effected bv Hudson's Bay, and, as an encouragement to private enterprise, and to increase the facilities to explore the regions of the north, for the purpose of accomplishing this long desired object, Charles II, in 1669, granted a charter to a society of London merchants, under the designation of " The Hudson's Bay Company." Then commenced the opera- tions of a monopoly, second only in power to tho far famed East India Company, which has opened the way for the extension of British ruie over a vast portion of the continent of Asia. For many years the Hudson's Bay Company confined its operations within the Hyper- borean regions, where it had enthroned itself in solitary despotism, and where it opposed itself in successful rivalry against a French company of a similar character ; but, finally, has extended itself throughout the entire western territories claimed by Great Britain and the Unito'd States, and has even laid under contribution a portion of the Russian American possessions. During its onward career it has experienced few reverses, the ugh it has frequently been called upon to contend with power- ful opposition. During the year 1787, an association was organized among the principal fur-merchants of Montreal, for the purpose of carrying the trade between the posts of tliat country and such of the British territories of the inteiioi Us were not supposed to be included in the grant to tho 380 ORSOON TERRITORY. Hudson's Bay Company ; and so rapidly did it extend Un Dperations, that within two years its estabHshments were advanced as far as Athabaska Lake, near the fifty-ninth parallel of latitude, about eight hundred miles north-west from Lake Superior. This company, in its increasingly extended operations, proved the most powerful competi- tor with which the Hudson's Bay Company had to con- tend, but finally merged itself in the latter company. The Hudson's Bay Company, exercising supreme control over its frozen domains, at length found a new company advancing upon them with*a menacing aspect, and l)oth cempanies became immediately actuated by the spirit and motives of rivals. They became the most bitter enemies to one another, and as the different par- ties of the two companies would come in contact while exploring the north-western wilds, the most serious quarrels would take place, and result in the commission of i»juries by each party against the other. At length in 1814, a regular war brwke out, and for some time was openly carried on between them. The scene of this fraternal war was the territory on the Red river, contiguous to the frontiers of the United States. A company of Scotch Highlanders had been estabhshed here by Lord Selkirk, in 1812, in virtue of a grant of the country by the Hudson's Bay Company, The North West Company, to which the Scotch settlement had proved injurious by wresting from them those sup- plies of provisions for their trading posts, which had been obtained almost wholly from tne Red river lands, denied the validity of this grant, and hence arose many disputes and various acts of violence, until finally, tlie Scotchmen! were driven away, and their houses de- stroyed by their opponents. The Hudson's Bay Com- pany re-established the colony the following year, and consequently hostilities were renewed. Posts were taken and burnt by each party, and on the 19th of June, 1816, a general battle was fought, in which the North Westers were victorious. The Scotch- men were routed, and their governor, Mr. Semple, and seventeen of his followers, were killed. OREGON TERRITORY. 881 These affairg were represented by each party before the Brkish Government, and in 1821 a compromise was elfb-cted between the rival companies, and they were united by an act of Parliament, under the title of " The Honorable Hudson's Bay Company." At the same time an act was passed, granting to this company the exclu- sive right to trade in the Indian territoritjs in Northern America, owned or claimed by Great Britain, for the period of twenty-one years. Under the protection of this «act, after the coalition of the two companies took place, the arms of the giant monopoly were thrown around the entire territory west of the Rocky Moun- tains, extending from the Russian settlements to the Gulf of California. Oregon, from fifty-four degrees forty minutes, south as far as they pleased to go, and from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, was dotted with forts and trading posts, and every valley and moun- tain was made to contribute to swell the colfers of the co-partners of this extensive concern. The grand operations of the Hudson's Bay Company are managed by a governor, deputy-governoi, and a committee of directors, established in London, to whom all the reports of the company's affairs are annually transmitted. The trade of this company is under the immediiite control of a governor, residing within the field of its operations, who is responsible only to the committee in London. Under him are inferior officers, consisting of superintendents, factors, traders and clerks. The higher officers have a direct interest or share in the profits of the business, but the lower are engaged at small salaries, with the promise of a pension for life, after a given period of faithful service. But the most numerous class of agents in the business of the company are the hunters, voyagers, and trappers, consisting of Hawaiians, French Cunadians, half-breeds and Indians, who are paid a mere pittance for their services, and are kept in a state of entire subjection to the will of the company, by promises of future advancement, according as they shall render themselves of value to the trade. The strictest discipline and subordination are everv 882 OREGON TERRITORY. where enforced by the officers, and genei ally observed by the servants, though occasionally there are violent outbreaks. The furs and skint which constitute nearly the sole returns of the trade, are principally procured from the Indians in exchange for coarse manufactured goods, guns, and a variety of worthless trinkets, calculated to please the fancy of the savage, without proving of any benefit. Some, however, are procured by the company's trappers and hunters. The goods employed in this business are all brought from England, free of duty, and, for the de- partment west of the Rocky Mountains, are deposited at Fort Vancouver. At this point, the goods that are wanted for the interior, are packed in bundles of such o size as to be easily carried by one man, as the transporta- tion is performed alternately in boats and by portage, and sent to all the posts throughout the country. Ke- cently, however, an additional depot has been established on Vancouver's Island, north of the forty-ninth parallel, called Victoria, which, probably, will become the princi- pal one, as Vancouver is in the territory belonging to the United States. The furs collected are all sent to these two places, from which they are shipped directly to London, in vessels which arrive annually on the coast, with the goods and other supplies necessary to carry on the trade. Five or six ships of about three hundred tons burthen, are constantly employed for this purpose, in addition to several smaller craft which operate in the rivers and along the coast. Among the latter, is one stoumboat, which is principally employed between Fort Nczqualy, on Puget's Sound, and Stikine, a post north of the fifty-sixth parallel. " - The number of forts and trading-posts occupied by the company west of the Rocky Mountains, is twenty-two : — Fort Vancouver, on the north side of the Columbia River, ninety-five miles from the ocean, in north latitude forty- live degrees and about forty minutes, and west longitude 122 degrees and 30 minutes ; this fort was established in 1824, by Governor Simpson, and named after the dis- tinguished navigator who was the ser^ond. to enter thf OREGON TBRRITORT. 8df mouth of the Columbia, but the first to explore tlie river as liigh up as the point of land on which Vancouver stands : Fort George, formerly Astoria, situated on the south side of the Columbia, ten miles from its mouth ; Niizqualy, on Puget's Sound, latitude fortv-scven dcj^'rees ; Fort Langly, on Frazer's River, latitude forty-nine de- grees and twenty-five minutes ; Fort McLaughlin, on Mill Bank Sound, latitude fifty-two degrees ; Fort Simpson, on Dundas Island, latitude fifty-four degrees and thirty minutes ; Fort Stikine, on a river of the same name, lati- tude fifty-six degrees and thirty minutes : this fort is in the territory oelonging to Russia, and, regardless of the rights of the Russians, the Hudson's Bay Company attempted, in 1834, to intrench themselves on the banks of the Stikine, which had been recently discovered, and abounded in the most valuable furs. Baron Wrangle, who was then the Governor of the Russian American possessions, having got wind of the project entertained by the English to wrest from them this important point, proceeded to the mouth of the river and fortified it by erecting a block-house and stationing there a sloop of war. The Russians had not been long in waiting before a vessel was discovered approaching the shore and bear- ing the men and materials for the contemplated establish- ment ; but, to their surprise, the British found a sloop of war ready to dispute their passage into the river. They were informed that to save themselves, their pro- perty and their vessel, they must tack ship and return to their own possessions. All appeals to treaties, and all the fair promises of the English, were ineffectual ; the Russians were inexorable, and the Hudson's Bay Com- pany for once were foiled in their attempt, after having spent in preparations the sum of twenty thousand pounds. Subsequently they entered into a negotiation with the Russians and proposed to purchase the right of trading on the Stikine River, for a certain number of years. To this the Russians listened favorably, and at length a bar- gain was completed, in which the English bound lh(;m- selves to pay to the Russians annually, for a term of years, a certain sum, to be paid in the produce of the 884 ORROON TRRRITORY. extensive ftrm which the English cultivated on the Co- lumbia River, connected with what they could procure from the settlers in th<} country. On the conclusion of this contract the post was immediately occupied, a strong fort erected, and munitions of w^r provided to defend the establishment against the hostile lndiai*s by which it is surrounded. With the exception of Victv-ria on Vancouver's Island, the forts and posts of the company are situated inland, as follows : Frazer's Lake, McLeod's Lake, Fort George. Alexandria, Chiicotitic, Babine, and Bear's Lake, in that portion of the country called by the English, New Cale- donia ; the posts of Wallii- Walla, Okanagan, and Colville, high up on the Columbia River ; the Flathead and Koota- nia post, between the two main branches of the Columbia ; Fort Hall, near the Rocky Mountains and on the south branch of the Columbia, and Umpqua post, situated in latitude forty-three degrees and thirty minutes, on a river of the same name, and about fifty miles from the ocean. The company also have two migratory trapping and trading expeaitions of between fifty and seventy-five men each ; to the one is appropriated the country from the Co- lumbia south to the Bay of San Francisco along the coast ; the other explores the interior between the Columbia find the head-waters of the Colorado and Sacramento. The average annual value of the furs and peltries derived from these territories, hais been in the vicinity of one hundred and forty thousand dollars, for which have been given about twenty thousand dollars worth of goods, prime cost, the services of about five hundred men, employed in various parts of the business, shipping to bring supplies and take back returns, with various other incidental expenses. The net profits, however, arising from the Columbia trade, according to the representa- tions of Dr. John McLaughlin, who is the superintendent of the aflfairs of the Hudson's Bay Company, west of the Rocky Mountains, have not usually amounted to more than ten thousand dollars, the principal profits of the trade being derived from countries not embraced in tho western department. OREGON TERRITORY. 8Mft ^» It has always been the policy of the Hudson's Bay Company to monopolize the trade of those inuncnsc regions in North America, oc(;uj)ied by civilized man, and it has appeared destined to swallow up all other commercial enterprises coming within its reach. With this view, its posts have been pushed onward from time to time, until every nn^... ?nt point has been occupied from Hudson's Bay to Pt*. t's Sound, and its brigades of boats have appeared o • every naviguble river of that vast region, bearing B ish ...anuff^.ctures into the deepest recet^ses of savage iiie, or on their backward route, loaded with furs for the g. ?at depository on the sea- board. On every Indian trail have been seen the sure- footed mule and the Tidian mustang, reehtig under bur- dens of three hundred pounds, 8omo«imes m troops of scores, driven by a squadron of weathei-ueaten moun taineers, with their ritles before them, and their long knives hanging at their belts ; now ascending the mighty mountain chain ; now plunging to the bottom of the deep, dark ravine ; now diving into the solitudes of the prime- val forest, untrodden but by the feet of wild beasts, and savages as wild as they, and now emerging upon the extended prairies, calling, wherever the rising smoke indicates, the presence of an Indian, and bartering the wampum, the gaudy ribbon, the scarlet cloth, and the Indian blankets, for the precious beaver, otter, and mar- ten, until their supply of goods is exhausted, and their animals loaded with the fruits of their toils. They may be seen winding along the serpentine trail which leads back to the grand depot, happy if their numbers have not been diminished by the numerous casualties incident to the business in which they are engaged. The wonderful effoi 's of those who have controlled the desti- :iies of this company, and the indefatigable exertions of the numerous agents employed to promote its interests, nave succeeded, equal to the most sanguine expectations. Possessed with inexhaustible resources, and sustained with the most vigorous policy, they have been advancing in a sure march of commercial conquest. They have left no posts behind them unsubdued, but wherever they 880 OREGON TERRITORY. have made an attack, they remain masters cf the field. Their concentration of capital and interest gives them a decided advantage over the scattered capital of individual merchants, and to this we may attribute a great share of their success. A number of years ago they succeeded in ridding themselves of all American competition on the north-west coast, of which, until very recently, they have enjoyed the undivided monopoly. And whether on the coast or in the interior, wherever the Hudson's Bay Company has placed its giant foot, there American trade has been sure to decline. Another feature of the policy of the company, is the course which they have pursued in relation to colonizing the country. They have always been opposed to its set- tlement by any people except such as, by a strict subjec- tion to the company, would become subservient to their wishes. This has, doubtless, arisen from two circum- stances : First, the fur-trade of Oregon has been rapidly declining for a number of years past, and the Hudson's Bay Company are fully aware that this trade alone will not be sufficient to sustain them in the country for many years to come, and to abandon the country would involve themselves in an immense loss. These liabilities they wish to guard against by opening sources of wealth in other branches of business, to be under their control. Secondly, they have had in their employment, every year, many hundreds of persons, consisting of Canadian French, Hawaiians, half-breed Iroquois, and others, who are under their absolute control, so long as they remain in the Indian country. Many of these, from year to year, either by having large families, by the decline of the fur-trade, or by superannuation, become unprofitable servants, and by the company are settled in various parts of the country, where they support themselves, und be- come, indirectly, a source of profit to the company. They wished to preserve Oregon as an asylum for their servants, on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, where they could use them to advantage, in agricultural, pas- toral, and manufacturing pursuits, when they coui I ba no longer serviceable to them in the business af <.ho fur fmmmfffmf mmmm ^«^i«P"WifWiWiW mmm mm OREGON TERRITORY. 9H1 trade. That the company have eomtemplated a rapid decline, and probable termination of the lur-trade, west of the llocky Mountains, appears from the fact of their liaving been formed into a new company, under the name of " l*uget's Sound Agricultural Company," with a capital of two million pounds. This company has pretended to hold large tracts of land in the vicinity of Puget's Sound, under grants of letters patent from tne English Govern- ment ; and here they have attempted to establish a colony, but without success. This attempt was made in 1842. The half-breed descendants of the gentlemen and servants of the Hud- son's Bay Company, had been collecting together in a colony, on a small tract of fertile land lying on Red river, east of the Rocky Mountains, for more t-han thirty years, and so rapid was the increase of the colony, and so limited the arable country on the Red river, that the company resolved to send off a colony of the numerous Scotch and English half-breed ssettled on that river, to the shores of the Pacific ocean. Accordingly, in 1842, Sir George Simpson, who for many years has been the resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, by holding out the most flattering inducements, succeeded in forming a colony of some thirty families, of which he took the charge in person. They left the Red river settlement late in the spring, with their scanty supplies packed upon the backs of mules and Indian ponies, and passing through the stupendous gates o.^ the Rocky Mountains, they arrived on the borders of Pugot^s Sound some time in the month of October. U the fertility of the soil where they were planted by Sir George, had corresponded with the picturesque beauty of the face of the country, doubtless the colony would have succeeded ; but in consequence of a total failure of the crops the first year, the colonists abandoned the place, contrary to the wishes of the company, and set- tied in a more fertile portion of the country. Two other settlements intended for the reception and support of retiring servants of the company, have been established in Oregon ; one in the valley of the Cowilitz, ' 'vi i<:' ^f"B 888 OREGON TERRITORY. north of the lower Columbia^ the other on the delightful plains watered by the Wallamette rivcj> south of the Columbia. As interested motives first induced the company to establish these settlements, so it has always been their policy to keep them in a stale of absolute dependence. The colonists have iiot only U^en resporj sible to the company for the course of conduct they have pursued, but from it alone, until very recently, they have been obliged to receive all their supplies of foreign necessaries^ consisting of clothing, groceries', &c., for which they have been obliged to pay in the produce ot the soil, at prices to suit the avaricious pro- pensities which have developed themselves in the whole policy of the Hudson^s Bay Company. The oppressive nteasures adopted by the company, in reference to these settlements, were such as to cause them to languish for years, and to induce some of the most active and enterprising among the settlers, to take refuge in the United States. Fort Vancouver, after it became the grand depot of the company west of the mountains, was the most important point occupied by them, and the settlement there established, differed from those already described, in the important particular, that every person connected with it, was in the immediate service of the company. The fort, in 1845, consisted in a stockade, inclosing a space of ground of about eight hundred feet long, and five hundred broad, with a bastion at one comer, with three gates in front, for ingress and egress, and one in the rear. In addition to the artillery mounted in the bastion, there were two eighteen-pounders and two swivels planted in front of the residence of the chief factors, and commanding the principal entrance to the fort. Within this inclosure were situated some thirty build- ings, serving as dwelling-houses, stores, magazines, and work-shops. Near the fort are the buildings occupied by the servants, as also a hospital, barns, and a large boat-house. In the rear of the fort the company have A splendid garden in the highest state of cviltivation^ IJfJW'J'UiiW-*-''. OREGON TERRITORY 3S9 which produces ail kinds of fruit for which the climate is adapted, such as apples, peaches, pear? and grapes. Here is also cultivated a large farm of some three thou- sand acres, producing wheat, barley, oats, ptos, potatoes, &c., in great abundance ; and herds of many thousands of cattle are supported on the adjacent plains. Connected with the fort, and about four miles distant, up the Columbia, are a tlouring-mill and saw-mill, which have been in operation for several years. At the head of this establishment stands Dr. John MeLaughlin, and second to him is James Douglass, Esq., the former being a native of Canada, and the latter of Scotland, These gentlemen, as far as social habits arc concerned, have acquired for themselves, and for the company of which th8y are chief factors, an enviable reputation for hospitality and kindness. Few persons, whether coming by land or by sea, have ever visited Vancouver without being received with a hospitality which knew no bounds, until every want of the traveler was supplied. Innumerable have been the favors con- ferred by them upon the American missionaries, and their assistance has been rendered at times when great inconvenience, and even suffering, would have resulted from neglect. For all these acts of kindness these gen- tlemen, with many others at the various posts in the country, equally as well disposed, are deserving of much praise. But to particularize here would extend this account beyond the limits originally marked out ; and I shall therefc^G close this sketch of the history of the Hudson's Bay Company, by presenting a few circum- stances and incidents illustrative of the perils of the fur-trade, and of the character of those under-agenls employed to prosecute it, . The trading-post situated at the confluence of the Thompson's and Frazer's river, had been long under the superintendence of an English gentleman by the name of Black, who, in view of many amiable qualities, was in good repute among the gentlemen of the com- pany, and had already risen to the office of chief trader. By some means he had excited the jealousy of an Indian 390 OREGON TERniTORY, I '■:■ chief belonging to a tribe residing in the vicinity of tlie fort, upon wliom he had lavished many favors, but who resolved to imbrue his hands in the blood of his bene- factor. One day, in 1842, the Indian came to the fort with his musket in his hand, which probably Black had sold him. The unsuspicious trader received him into the fort, and even into his dwelling, without disarming him. As the Indian appeared unusually friemdly, Black became uncommonly confiding. At length, to fulfil some request which the Indian artfully made, he turned his back upon him, and while retiring, his secret foe deliberately brought his musket to his face, and taking a deadly ainti, fired, the bullet passing directly through his heart. He fell ; and as ■ ' e Indian saw him stretched upon his own floor, weltering in his gore, he walked deliberately out of the house, passed through the gate of the stockade, and disappeared ; and three years subsequently the lu- dian was still at large, and the crime unrevenged. Different was the closing scene of another tragedy, acted the following year, on the Columbia river. A half-breed Iroquois, by the name of McKay, was em- ployed for the company, on the lower waters of tb*? Columbia, and resided in c small house on the north shore of the river, where he kept the Indian goods with which he carried on his trade. A few Iiidians of the Che nook tribe, knowing him to be alone, proceeded to his house, murdered him, and took possession of his goods. A friendly Indian carried the news immediately up to Vancouver, aiid an expedition was fitted out to pursue and take the murderers. Armed with muskets, they proceeded down the river, and at length came in sight of a canoe filled with Indians, and weie informed that the murderers were in that canoe. They imme- diately gave chase, and the suspicions of the Indians being aroused, they also plied the paddle with all their might, to keep at a safe distance from their pursuers. Finding that the white men gained upon them, the Indians run their canoe ashore ; but. as they were land ing, they received a volley of musket balls, which M -M iM i ^ l iN Fiw W > i 'iM * W, w rta »| i>H mmm mmm OREGON TERRITORY. 89] unfortunately killed one Indian woman, and wt . .adud Bome others, while the murderers, for the time being, made their escape. Dr. McLaughlin, of whom all the Indians in the country stand in the greatest fear, sent word to the Chenooks that they must deliver up the principal instigator of the crime, or he would adopt some other way to avenge the murder oi McKay. Fearing that the wrath of the company might burst upon the whole tribe, every man became intent upon delivering up the murderer. At last he was found far north of the mouth of the Columbia, where he had se- creted himself, and brought in triumph to Fort George, and delivered up to the authorities of the Hudson's Bay Company. Dr. McLaughlin was present, and some thirty or forty others, besides the Indians who had collected to se6 what would be done. A trial was instituted, the Indian was pronounced guilty of wilful murder, and sentenced to be hung forthwith. A gallows was prepared, and one end of a long rope thrown over the top of the gallows, and tied around the Indian's neck. All the white men present, with the exception of Rev. J. II. Frost, who witnessed the scene, took hold of the other end of the rope, the Indian standing like a statue under the gallows, and, at a given signal, all pulled upon the rope, drawing the Indian up so that his feet were some distance from the ground. As his neck did not break, he merely strangled ; but the mode of his death filled the tribes around with horror, and impressed every Indian with a sense of the fearful character of the white man's vengeance. This summary execution proved a salutary lesson, especially to the Indians in the vicinity where it took place. In the prosecution of the fur-trade, it has frequently been necessary for the members of the company to adopt the most sanguinary measures against the Indians, in order to secure their own safety and ultimate success. Hundreds of their trappers and voyagers have fallen by the ruthless hand of tne savage, while pursuing their game along the valleys, or scouring the mountain chains ^99 OREGON TERRITORY. of the west, and none have ever prosecuted this perilous enterprise, who have not had repeated occasions to re- venge the death of a comrade, perhaps a brother, or an intimate friend. Out of the pale of the law, the fur- traders became a law unto themselves, or rather adopted such laws, from time to time, as the exigences of the case required. At one of the forts, situated in the into rior, a servant of the company was murdered by an Indian chief, who subsequently boasted that he had com- mitted the deed. This chief belonged to a powerful migratory tribe that, at the time .of the murder, was encamped in the vicinity of the fori, and, as he possessed considerable influence in the tribe, and could rally around him a large number of warriors, he concluded that the few white men at the fort would net dare to molest hjm. The commandant of the fort ivnowing that if this daring crime remained unrevenged, there would be no safely for the remainder of the whites, offered a hcavv reward to any Indian or white man that would take the life of tlve murderer. Some time elapsed, and, as no one dared to make the attempt, the murderer was still at large. One day it came to the ears of the commandant that the murderer was in camp, and might be found in a certain lodge at the farther extremity of the encampment. The commandant, who had long waited with the deepest anxiety for such an opportunity, seized his unerring rifle and, secreting it under the folds of his cloak which he had thrown around him, passed outside the stockade, and taking a narrow trail which wound along among the lodges, marched directly to the one where sat the doomed, but unsuspecting, chief, surrounded by his com- panions, and rehearsing his deeds of marvelous prowess in his numerous fights with the men of King George. Pulling aside the door of Buffalo skin, he stepped inside the lodge and presented himself in full view of the as- tonished Int'.ans. He fixed his eye upon the well known form of the murderer, and, without uttering a word, let fall the folds of his cloak, and poising his rifle, aimed directly at the murderer's heart. The Indian perceiving that his hour had como, threw his arms above his head. ipppnffpnv'ifpppp" ^P!PPW!i^lP»^l^^«^w« "»v ••REGON TERRITORY. aoa ga\%, A }i«>tiu^ ycfl, fell backward and expired ; the ball M.i the room and saw ail the men seated in a ring, on th * floor, around a number of bottles stauding within tlu OREGON TERRITORY. 397 nng, and the Indians lying dead drunk on another part of the lloor. Mr. John himself was standing outside of the ring, and McPherson placed himself on the opposite side of the ring ; neither of them appeared to be par- taking of the festivities of the evening, but were looking on, and forcing the "people to drink. Antoine Kawanopee was seated on his bed, apart from the other men, per- fectly sober, as he told Peter afterward. Mr. John had ordered him not to drink, observing, " You are not to drink at this time, as I am going to die to-night, and you will help me in what I am going to do." On entering the room, Mr. John told Peter to sit down with the other people, and ordered his servant Fleury to give him a good dram, which he did in a tin-pan. Peter could not drink the whole, and was threatened by Mr. John with vio- lence if he did not finish it. He succeeded in emptying the pan, by allowing the liquor to run into the bosom of his shirt. Mr. John, in doing this, did not appear to be angry, but in a half playful mood. Peter remained there about a quarter of an hour, during which time he was careful not to drink too much, as a few hours previously Antoine had called at his room and said, " My Uncle, take care of yourself to-night ; th^o- master is going to die." Peter said, " Who is gomg to kill him f and Antoine said, " The Bluemen," meaning the Kanakas, "are going to kill him." This, Peter thought, was likely to btf the case, as the men, some time before Christmas preceding, had agreed among themselves to murder him, and had signed a paper, which McPherson drew up to that eflect. Every one of the men of the place agreed to the commis- sion of this deed, Smith and Heron, as well others. Peter's name was signed by McPherson and he attested it by his cross. This paper was signed in Urbaine's house, where the men severally repaired by stealth for the purpose, as Mr. John kept so vigilant a watch upon them, that they were afraid he might suspect their inten- tions, if thev were there in a body. The same impres- sion made him also remark, in a low tone of voice, to Laperti, on his first entering the room, when he observed Mr. John forcing the peopie to drink, " I really believe 308 OREGON TERRITORY* J* our master feels his end near, as he ne /er used to act io this manner." As above mentioned, after Peter had been about fifteen minutes in the room where the men were drinking, Mr. Joh 1 retired, followed by Antoine. Mr. John had noi on that occasion drank any thing with the men, neithei did he (Peter) ever see him at any time preceding, drink in their company. He, however, supposed that he must have taken something in his own room, 'as he appeared flushed and excited, but not sufficiently so as to render his gait in the least unsteady. McPherson also did not taste any thing in the room. As soon as Mr. John was gone, Peter also left the room, and went to bed in his ovi'n room. Peter was informed by Antoine that Mr. John, on leaving the room where the men were drinking, went up stairs to his own apartment, and he heard him say to his wife, " I am going to die to-night." And he and his wife both began to crv. Mr. John soon rallied, and observed, " Very well, if I die, I must fall lik a man." He then told Antoine to load his rifles and pistols, and ordered him also to arm himself with his own gun. He and Antoine then went out, and Peter thinks he heard the report of more than fifteen shots. Antoine after- wards told Peter that Mr. John fired at Laperti, but missed him, and afterwards ordered Antoine to fire at Laperti. Antoine refused to do so, until his own life was threatened by Mr. John, when he fired in the direc- tion, without aiming at Laperti. He also told the Kana- kas to kill the Canadians, and it was in part them who fired the shots that he ^Peter) had heard. Peter then got up and placed himself behind his door, and saw Mr. John come in and go up stairs with Antoine, when he took the opportunity of going out, armed with his gun and a stout bludgeon, and found the men standing here and there on the gallery watching an opportunity to shoot Mr. John. Lapcrti's position on the galksry was fronting the door of the main house, towards which he had his gun pointed ; when Peter saw him, he was on his luiees, the smali end of the gun resting on the tcip B PIP W 'I OREGON TBRRITOR7. 999 rail of the gallery, in readineis to fire. Laperti ex claimed, on seeing Peter, " I mutt kill him no a^, as he has fired two shots at me." Peter objected to this, and proposed to take and tie him. Nobody answered him. At that moment, Smith came up to Laperti and told him to hide himself or he would certainly be killed. Laperti said, "Where can I hide myself?" And Smith said, " Come with me and I will show you a place in the bastion where you can hide yourself," and they went off together in the direction of the bastior at the corner of Urbaitie's house. Peter, after a few m'nutes' stay en the gallery, returned to his house, as he had previously agreed upon with George Hebram, who was lying sick in bed, and who had entreated him not to leave him alone. At the door of the main house, he met Mr. John coming out, followed by Antoine, wh^ was carrying a lamp.. Mr. John said to Peter, *• Have you seen Laperti ] " Peter answered, " No, I have not seen him." And then Mr. John said, " Have you seen Urbaine 1 " And Peter again answered that he had not. The minute before this, as he (Peter) was returning from the gallery, he had seen Urbaine standing at the corner oi the main house, next to Urbaine's own dwelling, in company with Simon. Urbaine said, " I don't know what to do ; I have no gun, and do not know where to hide myself." Simon said, " I have a gun, if he comes I will shoot hi'n, and will be safe." Mr. John, after Peter passed him, said to Antoine, " Make haste, and come with the lamp," and proceeded with a firm step to Urbaine's house, as Peter, who continued watching at the door, saw. After he saw them go to Urbaine's house, he proceeded towards his own room, and he and Antoine called out, " Fire I fire ! " The report of several shots, probably five, im- mediately followed, and he heard Antoine exclaiming, " Stop 1 stop ! stop 1 He is dead now." Antoine after- wards related to Peter, that on reaching Urbaine's house, Mr. John ordered him to go round by one corner, while he went round by the other, directing Antoine to shoot any of the Canadians he might meet. Mr. John then proceeded in a stooping position, looking very intently 400 OREGON TERRITORY. before him, when a shot was fired from the corner of the house towards which he wa« going, which caused his death, the ball having entered at the upper part of the breast-bone, a Httle below the gullet, and came out a little below the shoulder, having broken the spine in its passage. Peter was also told by one of the Kanakas, that as soon as Mr. John fell, Urbaine sprung forward from the corner of the house within a few paces of the body, and put his foot savagely on his neck, as if to complete the act, should the ball have failed in causing death. The Kanakas immediately asked Urbaine, who had killed the master 1 Urbaine replied, " It is none of your business who has killed him I Peter, who during this time had removed to his house, seeing Herron go out without his gun, went out round the body and said, " My friend, we have now done what we long intended to do ; let us now carry the body back to the house." Urbaine, Laperti, Bellinger, and other white men who were present, replied, " When we kill a dog, we let him lie where we kill him." And Antoine told him they had previously given him the same reply to a similar propo- sition from him. Peter then approached (he body and, with one hand under the neck, rail ad the head and trui»k, when a deep expiration followed, which was the last sign of animation. He had previously perceived no signs of life, nor did he hear any one say that any appeared after the deceased fell. The white men being unwilling to assist him, he carried the body, with the aid of the Kanakas, into the main house, where he had it stripped, washed clean, decently dressed, and laid out. In doing so he received no help from any but the Kanakas. The wounds made by the balls were very large, both open- ings being circular, and severally three inches in diame- ter. The body bled profusely, there being a deep pool of blood found around it, which was washed away after- wards by the Kanakas. Peter never heard that he spoke or moved after he fell. There was a perpendicular cut on the forehead, skin-deep, in a line with the nose, which Peter thinks was caused by his falling on the barrel of aid rifle, though Urbaine said that he had received it OREGON TERRITORY. 401 rom an Indian with his dog. It was as Peter supposes about eleven o'clock, p. m., when he had done washing and laying out the body ; the watches had not then been changed, therefore he thinks it could not be midnight. The people continued conning and going during the night, to see tne body, and Peter proposed praying over the body, as is customary in Canada ; but they objected, saying, they did not wish to pray for him. He did sit up with the body all night, having soon after gone, first to Urbaine's and then to Lulaire's house, who eaeh gave him a dram, which he took, saying, "There is no need of drinking now ; they might drink their fill now." He soon afterwards went to bed. He inquired of Martineau, who also lived in the same room, if he had fired at the deceased. He replied, that he had fired twice. He then asked him if it was he that had killed him, and he said, 1 do not know if it was me or not. He (Peter) put the same question to several of the other men whom he saw afterwards ; they all said that they had not shot him, and Martineau after- wards said that he had not directed his gun at him, but had fired in the air. The following morning lie a^ked Antoine Kawanope if he knew who had killed the deceased. He replied, ** 1 know who killed him, but I am not going to tell you, or any one else. When the governor comes, I will lell him. He asked Antoine whv he would not tell : he said he was afraid it might cause more quarrels, aiKl lead to other murders. He then advised Antoine not to conceal it from him, as he would toll no one. An- toine then said, he thought it was Urbaine who had done the deed. Peter observed that Urbaine had no gun. Antoine rej)lied, " I think it was Urbaine, because as soon as the deceased fell, Urbaine rushed out from his lurkinjj; place at the corner of the house, where, I was informed by the people, he always kept his gun secreted, with the intention or shooting the deceased." Peter says Laperti, Urbaine and Si Aon were all concealed in the corner whence the shot came, and he thinks it to be one of the thn;)e who fired it. Urbaine always denied havirg com- 17* >.%■ 102 OREGON TERRITORY. mitted the murder, and said, ** I am going to the Russian Fort for trial, and will be either banished or hung. I will let the thing go to the end, and will then inform upon the murderers." Simon always said that he was never in the corner from whence the shot was fired, and knew notiiing about the matter ; but Peter thinks that he must have been there, as he saw him, as before related, at the corner of the main house, when he promised to protect Urbaine, and from the situation of the fort, he must have passed that spot with Urbaine, as there was no other passage from the place where they had been standing. Laperti also said he never fired at all. When Peter, as before related, went upon the gallery after the first firing had ceased, while Mr. John and Antoine had gone into the house, he saw ail the men on the galleryf except Pripe, Lulaire and McPherson, and he asked each of them, respectively, if they were going to shoot the master that night, and they all answered, (as well as himself,) they would do so at the first chance, except Pehou, a Kanaka, who would not consent to the murder. Smith was thca without a gun. Before the Christmas preceding Peter put the ques- tion to Smith, how he should like to see him kill Mr. John 1 He replied, " I should like it very well ; I would have no objection, because his conduct is so very bad that he can never expect to be protected by the Com- pany." Peter Manifree says, that Mr. John appeared to be aware of the plot formed by the men against his life, as he supposes, through the information of Fleury, his servant, who was aware of every thing that passed an ong them. Mr. John had often said to the men, " Kill me, if you can. If you kill me, you will not kill a woman — you will kill a man." And he kept Antoine as a sentinel to watch his room. One evening George Herron proposed taking his life, and saW if he could find a man to go with him, he would be the first tc shoot him. Peter refused to go, and Herron watched a great part of the night in the passage leading to Mr. John's room, holding his gun pointed towards its door, with the mmimtfmiri, lanman OREGON TERRITORY. 403 n's object of shooting Mr. John if he appeared, as he usually did at night when going to visit the watchmen ; but he diunis!i- ments inflicted upon his men ; but he was &uifounded l)y a set of desperadoes, who, for months before the arrival of the night, during the darkness of which, the fatal shot ushered him into the presence of his Judge, had been seeking an opportunity to rob him of life. Some time before this event, he Hogged Peter for the crime of stealing fish. Peter was exceedingly angry, and resolved upon the destruction of his master. At a time to suit his purpose, he went to the bastion, where were fire-arms 406 OREGON TERRITORY. loaded to his hands, and rung the bell of alarm, with the intention of shooting Mr. MeJiaughlin when he should make his appearance. A man by the name of Perse, came out to see what was the matter, instead of the intended victim, when Peter fired, but missed him, the ball hitting a post near his head. For this oiibncc, Peter was again seized, put in irons, and subsequently severely flogged and liberated. Nearly all the men had been flog- ged from time to time, for various offences, and all con- spired against the life of their master. As might have been exj>octed, when the case was examined by Sir George Simpson, the murderers attempted to cast all the odium upon Mr. McLaughlin, doubtless for the purpose of exculpating themselves, in which attempt they but too well succeeded, in the estimation of Sir George. Whether the persons who procured his death, would be pronounced, by an intelligent jury, guilty of wilful murder, or whether, from the mitigating circumstances connected with these transactions, the verdict should assume a more modified form, is not for me to determine. But it cannot be denied by any one, that the circumstances must be indeed extra- ordinary, that will justify any man, or set of men, to cut short the probation of an immortal being, and usher him, with all his unrepented sins, into the presence of his God. J! ' CHAPTER XX. Ongon territory — History continued -—Mr. Asliley's ex|)e(lition — Smith, JaekmnfOnd Sublette — Rocky Mountain Fur Company — Interesting journey — Country explored — Independent parlies — Boeieville — Red Wolf— Captain Wyeili — Opposed by H. U. C. — Results — Immigration for settlement — Cliarncier of population — Source* whence it proceeds — Enterprise — Portions of country occupied. For eight years after the surrender of Astoria to the British, and the destruction of the Pacific Fur Company, in 1814, a British corporation held undisputed sway over the wilds of Oregon. Hordes of English trappers scoured its mountain chains upon their fleet horses, and ransacked its deepest valleys, while the Americans, worsted in the affair of Astoria, confined their operations on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. The North American Company, of which Mr. Astor was also the head, explored the country of the great Lakes, the head- waters of the Mississippi, the Missouri, and had cstab- lishtid posts high up on the Yellow Stone, when another company was organized, in 1822, under the name of the Columbia Fur Company, with the design of extending its operations into those western regions hitherto under the monopoly of the Hudson's Bay Company. Accordingly, in the spring of 1823, Mr. W. H. Ashley, of St. Louis, fitted out an expedition for the Oregon country, crossed the Rocky Mountain chain, between the sources of the I'latte and Ct^lorado, near the forty-second parallel, ob- tained a lari^e amount of furs, and, in the fall, transported them in saiety to St. Louis. In the lollowing year he returned across the mountains with about one hundred men, whom he left in the country to hunt and trap; and, although they were opposed by the Hudson's Bay I ' 408 OREGON TERRITOnV. I ' ■ I I ' I I ■■V ^11 Company in every way, yet the furs collected by them in three years, amounted to tlie sum of one hundred and eighty thousand dollars. In these first expeditions of Ashley from St. Louis, the goods were all transported on the backs of horses ; but in 1827, he sent sixty men across the mountains with a piece of cannon drawn by mules, which was planted in the vicinity of the great Salt Lake, or Lake Yauta, which lies south of the forty- second parallel ; and, after collecting the furs, and dis- tributing supplies among the hunters, they returned to Missouri, having been absent just seven months. In 1826, a company was formed in St. Louis by Messrs. Smith, Jackson and Sublette, and, having sub- sequently purchased Mr. Ashley's establishments and interests, they carried on a successful trade with the countries of the Columbia, under the name of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. The first expedition with wagons to the Rocky Mountains was made by this company in 1829, and as an account of it will serve to show both the mode and the route usually pursued by the emigrants at tlie present day. I subjoin the following, which appeared in connection with President Jackson*s Message in 1831 ; "On the 10th of April last, (1829,) we set out from St. Louis with eighty-one men, all mounted on mules, ten wagons, each drawn by five mules, and two dear- borns, (light carriages or carts,) each drawn by one mule. Our route was nearly due west to the western limits oi' the State of Missouri, and thence along the Santa Fe trail, about forty mUes from which the course was some degrees north of west, across the waters of the Kansas, and up the great IMatte River to the Rocky Mountains, and to the head of Wind River where it issues frojn the mountains. This took us until the IGth of July, and was as far as we wished to go with the wagons, as the furs to be brought in were to be collected at this place, which is, or was this year, the great ren- dezvous of the persons engaged in that business. Here the wagons (;ould easily have crossed the mountains, it bcin<; what is culled the Southern Pass had it been OriKCO.N T Kit in TORY. 409 desirable for thcin to do so, which it was not for the reasons stated. For our support at leaving the Missouri settlements, until we should get into the butfalo country, we drove twelve head of cattle besides a milch cow. Eight of these only being required for use before we got to the buflaloes, the others went on to the head of Wind River. We began to fall in with butfalocs on the Platte, about three hundred and fifty miles from the white set- tlements, and from that time lived on buflaloes, the quantity being infinitely beyond what we needed. On the 4th of August, the wagons being in the mean time loaded with the furs which had been previously taken, we set out on our return to St. Louis, All the high points of the mountains then in view were white with snow ; but the passes and valleys, and all the levej country, were green with grass. Our route back was over the same ground nearly as in going out, and we arrived at St. Louis on the 10th of October, bringing back the ten wagons, four of the oxen, and the milch cow, as we did not need them for provisions. Our men were all healthy during the whole time ; we suiTcred nothing from the Indians, and had no accident, but the death of one man, being buried under a bank of earth that fell in upon him, and another crippled at the same time. Of the mules we lost but one by fatigue, and two horses stolen by the Kansas Indians ; the grass being along the whole route, going and coming, sufficient for the support of the horses and mules. The usual weight in the wagons was about one thousand eight hundred pounds. The usual progress of the wagons was from fifteen to twenty-five miles per day. The country being almost all open, level and prairie, the chief obstructions were ravines and creeks, the banks of which required cutting down, and for this purpose a few pioneers were generally kept in advance of the caravan. This is the first time that wagons ever went to the Rocky Moun- tains, and the ease and safety with which it was done, prove the facility of communicating overland with the racific Ocean. The route from the Southern Pass, where the wagons stopped, to the Great Falls of iha '1 ... I " ]i i S .'.■■4 », 3 ! i J ""■ :. : , ■ ii 410 OREGON TERIIITORY. this aide of horses and support of Columbia, being easier lind better than on the mountains, with grass enough for the mules ; but a scarcity of game for the men. This company continued its operations ft r a number of years, and its agents explored the whole country from St. Louis, by the way of Taos and Santa Fe, to the Bay of San Francisco ; thence along the coast of the Pacific north to the mouth of the Columbia ; and all the vast interior from Fort Vancouver to the country of the Blackfect and Sioux was faithfully examined ; but, in consequence of the deadly hostility of the Indian tribes, and the direct and unbending opposition of the great English monopoly, the company withdrew from the territories west, and for years has confined its ope- rations on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. The above named are the principal American compa- nies which have extended their operations west of the Rocky Mountains, since the famous expedition of Astoria, under the direction of Wilson Price Hunt. Several independent parties of adventurers, however, have, from time to time, turned their backs upon civilization, and, some actuated by curiosity, and others by the love of jjain, haVe traced the waters of the rivers which flow westward, to the Pacific ocean ; and after spending years among the Indians, have returned to the world information concerning the regions hitherto but little known, which they had explored. In 1832, Captain Bonneville, of the United Stales Army, led a band across the Rocky Mountains, of more than one hundred men, and remained in the country drained by the Snake river and its branches for two years, employed in the collection of furs. The adven- tures of this intrepid officer have been made known by Washington Irving, and need not be repeated here. Suffice it to say that when the writer visited the coun- try of the Snake river, in 1842, an incident of Bonne- ville's experience in that country, was related to him by Red Wolf, an Indian chief of the Nez Perce tribe. BonneviUe had met with the most violent opposition iliHi OREGON TERRITORY. 411 from thu Hudson's Bay Company, in his trade, and in attempting to leave a portion of the country where every thing, even to the game, appeared to be under their control, he and his party, w^hich, by desertion and other causes, had been greatly reduced, lost their way, and wandered without food for three days and nights. At length, in a state of starvation, they fell in with Red Wolf and his party on the Snake or Lewis river, and the chief received them kindly, and treated them with the best which his means afforded, which was the flesh of a fat horse, which he killed for that purpose. After giving them this timely relief, he prevailed upon them to tarry with him a few days, and recruit their exhausted strength. They accepted of hia kind offer, and were astonished at their departure, on bei'ng supplied by their Indian benefactor with provisions to take with them, and a guide to conduct them on to their proper route. About the same time that Bonneville was making his transit across the Rocky Mountains, Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth, of Massachusetts, was endeavoring to establish « direct trade between the United States and the Co- lumbia river. In addition to the fur-trado, W vcth had in view the establishment of a salmon-fishery in Oregon, from which he hoped to receive considerable profits. With these views he dispatched a vessel around Cape Horn, to the Columbia, and led two expeditions across the c*ontinent, the first in 1832, and the second in 1834. To facilitate his operations. Captain Wyeth formed two trading stations, one in the south-cast corner of Oregon, near the junction of the river Portnenf with the Snake or Lewis river, called Fort Hall, and the other on Wap- pato Island, near the entrance of the Wallamette into the Columbia, and about seventy miles from the Pacific ocean, called Fort Wiiliara. These forts were advan- tageously situated for trade, but in consequence of the numerous disasters which happened to the company, but principally oxi account of the unrelenting hostility of the Hudson's Bay Company to all American enterprise in Oregon, Wyeth was obliged to relinquish his expedition, and Fort Hall and Fort Wiliiaoi fell into the houds oi 412 OREOOM TERRITORT. that monopoly. Scores of lives were lost in Wyeth's expedition ; several men were drowned, but more killed by the Indians. Wyeth continued his effort to establish the trade for three years, and it is said that, at the close of that time, of two hundred men whom he had led into Oregoij, but forty w^ere known to be alive, all the rest having fallen victims to the dangers incident to the fur-r trade. This enterprise, though failing in its primary objects, was of great service, not only to the United States in furnishing important information respecting the territo- ries of the Columbia, but also to Oregon itself in intro- ducing the first American settlers, in assisting the first American misblunaries across the Rocky Mountains, and in opening the way for future emigrations to the fertile plains of that distant country Though a number of persons, Americans and Canadian French, who accompanied the first exploring and com- mercial expeditions across the mountains, had previously taken up their residence in Oregon, yet the first emigra- tions for the purpose of settlement, were made in 1832. To a proper understanding of the character of the present population of Oregon, it will be necessary to consider the sources whence it has sprung. Probably c mos e heterogeneous mass of human kind cannot be found fr any land, than have sought an asylum in the wilds oi"< Uegon. Here are found the Indian, who is the legitimate proprietor of the soil, Englishmen, Scotchmen, Irishmen, Americans, Germans, Prussians, Italians, Spanish, Frenchmen, Danes, Canadians, Ha- waiians, Otehietans, and Africans. From continual inter- marriages with one another, and particularly with the natives of the country ever since white men first visited these shores, an amalgamated population has been pro- duced, presenting every variety of color, disposition, and character of which the human species is capable. The English, Scotch, French, and some others, have princi- pally been introduced into the country through the in- strumentality of the Hudson's Bay Company. Many of these still belong to the company, and occupy various OREGON TERRITORY. 413 jtations, from those of servants and clerics up through (he various grades of office to the chief factors and su- perintendents. Others, who were formerly the servants of the company, becoming in some cases superannuated, m others unprofitable, have been dismissed ; and the company chose rather to settle them in the country and continu3 to exercise a controling influence over them, than to return them to the lands whence they came. The numbers which have sprung from this source, and are now residents of the wilderness, amount to nearly I.WO thousand souls. Many persons have found their way to Oregon from the numerous vessels which have touched at various points alon^; its extended coast Scarcely a ship has visited the Columbia for years, from which two or more have not made their escape, and, secreting themselves until the vessel has left, they have come forth to mingle with the inhabitants as citizens of Oregon. Some have deserted their ships on the coast of California, and have < fought their way to the valley of the Multnomah, through the hostile tribes that roam among the Clameth and Um|>- qua mountains. Some of these adventurous seamen are among the most industrious, temperate, and wholesome settlers of Oregon. The Islands of the Pacific open another source for the supply of inhabitants to Oregon. Hundreds of Hawaiians have been taken from the Sandwich Islatids by the Hud- son's Bay Company, and by private individuals, to act as house servants and day-laborers, for which they have been found much better adapted than the natives of the country. Though the persons employing them are obliged to enter into stipulations with the Hawaiian government to return them at the expiration of their term of service ; yet, from the numerous casualties inci- dent to their new relations, and, those who survive, be- coming warmly attached to the country of their adoption, in connection with the superior facilities which Oregon presents to the Hawaiian, when compared with those of his native land, but few of them ever return tc their sea-girt home. 414 OREiSON TERRITORY. !. ■ y Another somewhat fruitful source for the sopply oi inhabitants to the fertile valleys of Oregon, has been found, singular as it may appear, in that vast range, called " The Rocky Mountains." I do not now refer to emigrants direct from the United States, who are obliged to pass through the gates of that stupendous range on their way to that "better country" which they seek, but to those white men, who, in connection with the American companies established for purposes of traffick with the Blackfeet, Sioux, and other Indians, have been collecting for the last forty years among the Miow-clad mountains which send their waters both to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. There are m^an still li"'ing in the Wallamette valley, who accompanied Lc'vis and Clark in their exploring expedition in 180& and 1800 ; and i have often seen persons who were the companions and fellow-travelers of Wilson Price Hunt, one of the part- ners of John Jacob Astor, in his trading estujiishment at the mouth of the Columbia, and who shared with that intrepid traveler in all the perils of one of the most re- markable expeditions of the kind ever carried to a suc- cessful issue, and has been inimitably described in Wash- ington Irving's popular "Astoria." Madame Dorio, the heroine of that interesting narrative, and her son, who was born under peculiar circumstances during one of their encampments on their journey across the mountains, are both ^still alive, and inhabitants of the Wallamette valley. ,'■'■'■■•■',',"■ ., •' '''^-Ly''-^'/ -:;:'' v-'\^ There are many others, most of whom are Americans who, after having spent many years in ranging the Rocky Mountains, experiencing the most surprising adventures among the Indians, and enduring every variety of hard- ships which human nature is capable of suflering, have at last found a peaceful and quiet retreat, where they are secure from the savage violence of the Blackfoot, and from the treachery ol the Sioux, and where most of them will close their earthly career. With the most thrilling interest I have heard ttiem relate their mountain adventures and "hair breadth-escapes." The history of some of them will doubtless farm the subject of many OREGON TERRkTORY. 415 a future legend repleJe with interest. It is very re^ niarkable with"" respect to this class of inhabitants, that, while they doomed themselves to a precarious subsist- ence among the hostile clans of the mountains, they con- tracted the most roving, barbarous and depraved habits ; yet, on settling down amidst the increasingly interesting society of Oregon, most of them become steady, peace- ful and industrious citizens. While ranging the moun- tains they usually connected with their's, the fortunes of an Indian womaa, and many of them, in process of time, became surrounded with large families of half-caste children. They had a natural love for their offspring, and thev could but form an attachment for the mothers of their sons and daughters ; consequently, on leaving the scene of their savage life, they took with them their wives and children, anxious that both might be benefited oy mingling with civilized tjociety. At the present time some of these reclaimed mountaineers are amongf the principal persons to whom the public interests of the colony are intrusted. This shows with what facility they can throv/ off their mountaineer habits, and assume those of civilized Ufe. i^.t present the nr.ost fruitful source of supply for sottleri in Oregon, is the United States of America. Emigrations have arrived in the country, direct from Missouri, every fall, since 1839. In 1840 and 1841, the parties were comparatively small, but in 1842 the emigration num- bered one hundred and eleven persons in all. In 1843, it increased to eight hundred persons, who emigrated princi- pally in ox-wagons, and drove before them fifteen hundred head of neat cattle. In 1844, the number was about the same as the preceding year. In 1845, it increased to nearly three thousand souls, wiih some two or three thousand head of cattle. These emigra-ions, for the most part, are composed of persons from the Western States, but in them might be found persons from almost every State in the Union, even the most Eastern. Maine herself has supplied several. Many of these adventurers ore of that class of persons 416 OREGON TERRITORY. ■■ i who have always hovered on the frontiers of civilization, and have been pushing on in search of a " better country, not an heavenly," until they havt passed the utmost borders of civilized society. Penetrating entirely through the deep recesses of savage life, they have finally emerged from the deep defiles of the Cascade Mountains, into the .lovely valleys of Oregon, where they have found, a! least f m?^ blessings of Christianity and civi' ■ja*;on ; andrhcTe most of them, some from choice, • i '^^rs from the impossibiUty of getting away, como ; . ' ...n- clusion to erect their tabernacles for life. The jnttx prise of these parties has far out-stripped the most sangbine expectations of the English writer in a London paper, who, a few years ago, remarked, that, "Even the perse- vering Yankees would not think of emigrating to Oregon in their ox-wagons." If this writer had possessed the eye of omniscience, he would have seen, at the very time he was penning it, a score of Yankee wagons, drawn by sixty yoke of oxen, winding their way through the deep passes of the Rocky Mountains, bound for the Oregon. The population of Oregon in 1846, embracing the members of the Hudson's Bay Company, would not vary far from twelve thousand. These are settled principallr in the Wallamette valley on the south, and the Cowilil valley on the north side of the Columbia, on the Clatsop plains, and at the various posts of the Hudson's Bzy Company. ■;'-... • t t' '. ■i'"'^y''.;)^' .-iS. ' ^iJf ■^' ^-^l -..'*,■ ■> \T*V^ . '"it^? •■■•;:;-:-: ' " CHAPTER XXL OiMDi, « denritory-' Political histoiy -- Necessity or organising a body poluie-— Fiiat M leting of the people — Second moeiing — Exigencies m«t— Organization diaa-r V ploring squadron — Great excitement — Commander Wilkes — Opposed to or> £ lizing — Subject slumbers — Sub-agent — Mass meeting — Old subjec*. revived — "^dians troublesome — Talk of war — Dr. McLaughlin — Tliird meeting — Cl« 'ernmem organized — Fourth mf^tiag- Officers qualified— Laws enacted — Etu :t produced —New legislative committee — Lam iwind — ■ Alterations — Eleo> tiok of a Governor and House of Representatives — FeaMablQ state of commuoitj — J •>! Tumham — Thrilling incident. , Tha subject of this Chapter is not the political relation of Oiegon to any other country; whether from the Spani^ fi purchase, the right of first discovery, or conti- nuity of situation, it properly belongs to the United States ; or whether, from long and uninterrupted posses- sion by British subjects, as the servants of a British monojvily, or from the conveniency of a continued pos- session of the majestic Columbia as a port of entry to North Western British America, it more properly belongs to England ; but, simply, the internal politics of Oregon. Strange as it may appear, the people of Oregon have their politics, altogether aside from their relation with other countries, and these have sprung up among them, more from the necessity of the case, than from any other cause. Up to 1840, the number of people in the colony was so small, the business transactions so limited, and the difficulties so few, that the necessity of organizing the community into a body politic,* did not appear to be very great, though for two years persons had been chosen to officiate as judges and niagistrates. But a circumstance transpired in the winter of 1841, different in its character and bearings upon community from any thing that had previously happened, namely, the death of one of thff 18 418 OREGON TERRITORY. ! principal men in the colony, by the name of Ewing Young, who left a large and very unsettled estate, with out having made the least provision for its administration. On the very day of the burial of this man, who had not a single relative to follow him to the tomb, measures w T ^ taken to call a public meeting for the purpose of ap^ f g officers for the government of the community, and ^ cularly to provide for the proper disposition of the estate of Ewing Young. A committee of arrange- ments, chosen at his funeral, called a mass meeting of the inhabitants of Oregon, south of the Columbia liver, on the 17th and 18th of February, 1841, to be held at the Methodist Mission premises in the Wallamette val- ley. Pursuant to the call, the people collected and held, what was properly called, "The Primary Meeting of the people of Oregon." The meeting on the 18th was full — nearly every male inhabitant south of the Columbia, of full age, being present. Rev. Jason Lee was excused from officiating as Chair- man, and Rev. David Leslie was elected to fill his place. G. Hines and Sidney Smith were chosen Secretaries. The doings of the meeting the previous day were presented to the assetnbly, and adopted, in part, as follows : — Resolved, That a committee be chosen to form a con- stitution, and draft a code of laws, and that the following persons compose that committee : Rev. F. N. Blanchat, Rev. Jason Lee, David Don Pierre, Rev. Gustavus Hines, M. Cbanlevo, Robert More, J. L. Parrish, Etienne Lucia, and Wm. Johnson. As i'i. was not deemed necessary to elect a Governor that office was set aside. Dr. J. L. Babcock was elected to fill the office of Supreme Judge, with Probate powers. George W. Le Breton was elected to fill the office of Clerk of the Courts and Public Recorder. Wm. Johnson was elected High Sheriff. Zavier Ladaroot, Pierre Billique and Wm. McCarty were chosen Constables. w iy«yj .i OTM > j;|; ;ii r;»MJ gii ^ OREGON TERRITORY. 419 It was then resolved, that, until a code of lawrf be drafted by the Legislative Committee, and adopted by the people, Ira L. Babcock, the Supreme Judge, be instructed to act according, to the laws of the State of New Yorlf. It was then resolved to adjourn to meet the first Thursday in, June, at the new building near the Roman Catholic church. Thursday, June 11, 1841. The inhabitants of the Wallamette valley met accord- ing to adjournment; and the meeting was called to order by the Chairman, Rev. D. Leslie. On motion, the doings of the former meeting were read, on which the report of the committee for drafting a constitution and code of laws was cSUed for, and information was communicated to the meeting by the chairman of the committee, that, in consequence of his not having called the committee together, no report had been prepared. F. N. Blanchat was excused from serving on that committee at his own request. On motion, it was then resolved, that a person be chosen to fill the place thus vacated in the committee for drafting a constitution and code of laws, and Wm. J. Baily was chosen that committee man. On motion, it was resolved, that this committee be instructed to meet for the transaction of their business on the first Monday of August next. On motion, resolved, that the committee be instructed to report to an adjourned meeting, to be held the first Thursday in October next. On motion, resolved, that the committee be advised to confer with the commander of the American Exploring Squadron now in the Columbia river, concerning the propriety of forming a provisional government in Oregon. Resolved., That the motion to adopt the report of tlio nominating committee presented at a previous meeting, be rescinded. Resolved, That the committee to draft a cc.stitution be instructed to take into consideration the number and "i^l mm/mmg/jM 420 OREGON TERRITORY. kind of offices it will be necessary to create, in accord- ance with their constitution and code of laws, and to report the same at the next meeting. It was also resolved, that the report of the nominating committee be referred to the legislative comn)ittee. It was then moved and carried, that this meeting adjourn to meet at the Methodist Mission at eleven o'clock, A. M., of the first Thursday in October next. (Signed,) DAVID LliSLIE, Chairman, GUSTAVUS HlNES, ) s,^^^^^,,^ OIPNEY DMITH, ^ I have previously stated that the origin of these attempts to form a kind of provisional government, was the removal by death of the late Ewing Young, leaving, as he did, a large and unsettled estate, with no one to administer it, and no laws to control its administration. The exigencies of this case having been met by the appointment of a Judge with probate powers, who en- tered nnmedialely upon his duties, and disposed of tho estate of Ewing Young, to the entire satisfaction of the community ; and the fact that some of the most influ- ential citizens of the country, and especially some of the members of the legislative committee^ were adverse to the idea of establishing a permanent organization so long as the peace and harmony of the community could possibly be preserved without it, the subject was permit- ted to die away, and the committee for \irafting a con- stitution and code of laws did not meet according to their instructions, nor did the meeting at which they were expected to report, ever take place. What Contributed more, however, to defeat this first effort to establish a regular government in Oregon than any thing els3, was the arrival, during the summer in which the organization was pending, of the United States Exploring Squadron, under the command of Captain Wilkes. The results of the observations of the officers and scientific corps connected with the squadron, in the Oregon Territory, as well as a description of the different casualties which happened to them in the loss c^ the Peacock on the bar ot the Columbia and in their mam. mm L«sj. ' ±iiBiy.,jMJmm OREGON TKRRITORY. 424 difTerent conliicts with the natives of the interior, are eh'eady before the pub.ic in the voluminous works of Captain Wilkes^ and therefore it is not necessary to introduce them here. The arrival on the coast of Ore- gon of so extensive an armament, consisting of four or five vessels of war, for the express purpose of exploring, not only the coast and rivers, but also the country itself, produced a very great excitement in the community, and but little was heard of but the Exploring Squadron during its somewhat protracted stay in the Columbia river. In addition to this, the officers of the squadron were consulted on the subject of organizing the country into a civil compact, and were found to be decidedly opposed to the scheme, and recommended that the sub- ject be allowed to rest. They encouraged the people in the belief that the United States Government would probably soon extend jurisdiction over the country. This put a quietus on the subject for the time being, and, as the number of settlers in the country was yet small, and the ditliculties to be settled of such a nature as easily to be adjusted by arbitration, nothing took place to call up the subject of organizing until several months after the departure of the squadron from the Columbia river. " The subject of organizing a government was again revived in September, 1842; but Dr. White, who wag now in the country as Sub-agent of Indian Affairs, con- tended that his office was equivalent to that of Governor of the Colony. Some of the citizens contended that the Doctor's business was to regulate the intercourse be- tween the Indians and the whites, and not to control the whites in their intercourse among themselves. Without arriving at any thing definite on this point, after hearing the documents brought to the country from Washington by Dr. White, the people scattered away o their homes upon the plains, pleased with what they considered to be a preliminary step of the United States towards extending jurisdiction over the Territory of Oregon. About this time the Indians became quite troublesome, in various parts of tha country. At Waialetpee, on the 422 OREGON TERRITORY. All tribes war upon Walla-Walla river, where a mission station had been esfablished by Dr. Marcus Whitman, they took advantage of the Doctor's absence and broke into the house, in the deal of the night, and even into the bed-chamber of Mrs. Whitman, who, with much difficulty, escaped out of their hands. At Laperai, on Clear Water river, where the Rev. Mr. Spaulding was conducting a mission station, they committed some outrages ; also, at the Falls of the Wallamette river. A number of individuals of Dr. White's party, who had separated themselves from the main company, were robbed of their efiects while passing down the Columbia river. * The Nez-Perces and Kayuses, two of the most power- in the country, had talked much of making the American settlement on the Wallamette river. These things, with many others of more or less importance, produced a high degree of excitement, and served to arouse the people again to the subject of enter ing into some measures by which their mutual protectior might be secured. The Canadian French, who had set tied in the country, and who, up to the beginning of 1843, were more numerous than the Americans, were, at first, agreed with them as to the necessity of organ- izing ; but, at this time, as it was supposed through the influence of Dr. John McLaughlin, who, himself was opposed to such a measure, they broke off, almost to a man, on the pretence, that, as they were the subjects of Queen Victoria, and did not wish to forswear their country, they could not, consistently, enter into any measures that might prove prejudicial to her Majesty's government. This served to harmonize the views of the Americans, so far as to bring them unanimously to the determination immediately to organize ; but they still differed as to the nature of the government that should be established. Some were favorable to an independent form, some to a form similar to a territorial government, while others were in favor of a few simple rules and regulations, which might operate satisfactorily for the time being, until the United States government should do something more effectual in their behalf. With these OREGON TERRITORY, 423 coiiil *^ng views a meeting of about fifty of the settlers, chiefl; Vmericans. took place at the Wallamette Falls in the ia )nth of March, 1843, and the subject of organ- izing the community into a body politic, became the order of the evening. After a spirited and interesting discussion, the meeting resulted in the appointment of a committee to notify a public meeting to be held at Champoeg, the 2d day of May, 1843. In the mean time, there being no law in Oregon, every man was left to do what wai pleasing in his own eyes. At length the 2d day of xMa} arrived, and the people assembled ac- cording to notice, the French as well as the Americans, the former, doubtless, for the purpose of thwarting the designs of the latter, and these with the determination of carrying their purposes into execution. The following is an account of the meeting as taken from the public records. A public meeting of the inhabitants of the Wallamette settlement was held at Champoeg, on the 2d day of May, 1843, in accordance with the call of a committee, chosen at a previous meeting, for the purpose of taking steps to organize themselves into a civic community, and provide themselves with the protection secured by the enforcement of law and order. Dr. J. L. Babcock was chosen Chairman, and W. H. Gray, G. W. Le Breton and W. H. Wilson were chosen Secretaries. The committee appointed for the purpose of bringing forward the business of the meeting, presented their report, and a motion was made to accept it, which was lost. Considerable confusion existed in consequence ; but it was moved by G. W. Le Breton, and seconded by W. H. Gray, that the meeting divide themselves prepara- tory to being counted ; those in favor of the objects of the meeting taking the right, and those of the contrary mind, the left. The motion prevailed, and a large majority being found in favor of organizing, the greater part of the dissenting withdrew. The report of the committee was a*gain presented and accepted. It was then taken up, item by itern, and dis- posed of as follows ; — ^M m^M 424 OREGON TERBITORY. First item, that a Judge, with Probate i)owerg, be chosen to officiate in this community. Adopted. It was also resolved, tliat the second, third, fourth and fifth items, providing for the election of a Clerk, Sherifi[ three Magistrates, and three Constables, be adopted. The sixth item, recommending the election of a com miltee of nine persons for the purpose of drafting a code of laws for the government of the community, and to report to a public meeting to be hereafter called by said committee, and to be held at Chartipoeg, on the 5th day of July, 1843, was also adopted. The seventh and eighth were adopted, which recom- mended the election of a Treasurer, a Major and three Captains. It was then resolved, that the meeting proceed to choose persons to fill the various offices by ballot. A. E. Wilson was chosen to act as Judge, with Probate powers. G. W. Le Breton was chosen Clerk of the Court, and Recorder. Joseph L. Meek was chosen to fill . the office of Sheriff; W. H. Wilson was chosen Treasurer. Messrs. Hill, Shortess, Newel, Beers, Hubbard, Gray, O'Neal, More and Dougherty were chosen to act as the Legislative Committee. Messrs. Burns, Judson and A. T. Smith were chosen to act as Magistrates. ^ Messrs. Ebberts, Bridges and Lewis were chosen to act as Constables. John Howard was chosen Major. Messrs. M^x^arty, McKay and S. Smith were consti- tuted Captains. It was then resolved, that the Legislative Committee be required to make their report on the 5th day of Ju(y, 1843, at Champoeg. On motion, it was resolved, that the services of the Committee be paid for at the rate of one dollar and twenty-five cents per day, and that the money be raiied by subscription. mmm ■BlI g aiiaU. i ti.MUIIMMW'W " OREGON TERRITORY. 425 A motion was made and carried, that the Major and Captains be instructed to enlist men, to form companies of mounted riflemen. A fourth Magistrate and a fourth Constable were also elected, and it was then resolved, that the Legislative Committee should not be allowed to sit over six days. In addition to the above business, this important pri- mary meeting recognized the officers who had been elected immediately after the death of Ewing Young, and passed a vote that they should have power to exer- cise the functions of their office until the day of the public meeting should arrive, when the newly elected officers should be duly initiated. During the interim between the above described meeting and the 5th of July, little transpired worthy of note, with the exception of the celebration of the Fourth. This day, glorious in the recollection of every American, wherever he may be found, as the birth-day of liberty, was appropriately celebrated at Champoeg, where nearly all the Americans in the country, and many of the French and English assembled to listen to an oration, and a temperance address, and to enjoy the socialities of a public dinner. The festivities of the day were enjoyed )n the true spirit of liberty, there being no other spirit to exert an influence on the~occasion. As there were no houses to entertain the people during the night, they nearly all camped upon the ground ""d the morning of the 5th found them prepared to ent. • pon the important business that was to come before them, and which re- sulted in giving to the Oregonians a tangible form of government. The minutes of the meeting are as follows : — \ \ Champoeg, July 5th, 1843. The inhatsitants of Oregon met at Champoeg, pursuant to adjournment, to hear the report of the Legislative Committee, and to perform such other business as might come before them. Rev. Gustavus Hines was elected Chairman, and W. H. Gray, W. H. Wi.son and H. Campbell were chogen Secretaries. t«j* 420 QRCOON TERRITORY. Robert Mon;, Esq., Chairman of the Ixjgislative Com- mittee, then presented his report, which was read by the Clerk of the C'ourt, and adopted, as follows : — Section Isl. — We, the people of Oregon Territory, for purposes of mutual protection, and to secure peace and f)ro9perity among ourselves, acree to adopt the following aws and regulations until such time as the United States of America extend their jurisdiction over us. Be it therefore enacted by the citizens of Oregon Territory, that the said Territory, for the purposes of temporary government, be divided into not less than three, nor move than five Districts, subject to be extended to a greater number when the increase of p -^ulation shall require. For the purpose of fixing the principles o J and religious liberty as the basis of all laws and constitutions of government that may hereafter be adopted, Be it enacted, that the following articles be considered ar- ticles of compact among tne free citizens of this Ter- ritory : Article 1st. No person demeaning himself in an orderly and peaceful manner, shall ever be molested on account of his mode of worship, or religious sentiments. Article 2d The inhabitants of said Territory shall always be entitled to the benefit of the writ of habeas corpus, and trial by jury, of a proportionate representa- tion of the people in the legislature and judicial proceed- ings, according to the course of common law , all per- sons shall be bailable, unless for capital offences, where the proof shall be evident, or the presumption great. All tines shall be moderate, and no cruel or unusual pun- ishments inflicted. No man shall be deprived of his liberty but by the judgment of his peers, or the laws of the land ; and should the public exigencies make it necessary for the common preservation to take any person's property, or to demand his particular services, full compensation shall be made for the same. And, in the just preservation of rights and property, it is understood and declared, that no law ought to be made or have force in said Territory that shall, in any miinner whatever, interfere with, or msmm^-im^,:. ORROOM TERRITORY. 437 effect, private contracts or engagements, bona fide and witljout fraud, privately framed. Article 3ecome qualified. Article Wth. The Treasurer shall receive for his ser- vices the sum of five per c6nt. upon all moneys received and paid out, according to law, and three per cent, upon all money in the Treasury when he goes out of office, and two per cent, upon the disbursements of money m the Treasury when he comes into office. Article \2th. The laws of Iowa shall be the laws of this country, in civil, military and criminal cases, when not otherwise provided for; and where no statute of Iowa Territory applies, the principles of common law and equity shall govern. 430 bRCGON TERRITUftY. . Article \2th. The law of Iowa, regulating weighti and measures, shall be the law of this Territory ; Pro- vided, that the Supreme Court shall perform the duties required of the County Cofhmissioners, and the Recorder shall perfom the duties of the Clerk of the County Com- missioners, as provided in said laws of Iowa. And, provided, that .sixty pounds avoirdupois weight, shall be the standard weight of a bushel of wheat, whether the same be more or less than two thousand one hundred and fifty and two-fifths cubic inches. Article 14th, The laws of Iov«ra respecting wills and administrations, shall be the laws of this Territory, in all cases not otherwise provided for. Article IMh^ The laws of Iowa respecting vagrants, are hereby adopted as far as adapted to the circumstan- ces of the citizens of Oregon. Article 16///. The Supreme Court shall hold two ses- sions annually, upon the third Tuesday in April and Septenlber, the first session to be held at Champoeg, on the third Tuesday in September, 1843, and the second session at Tuality Plains, on the third Tuesday in April, At the sessions of the Supreme Court, the Supreme Judge shall preside, assisted by the Justices ; Provided, that no Justice of the Peace shall assis't in trying any case that has been brought before the Court by appeal from his judgment* The Supreme Court shall have original jurisdiction in cases of treason, felony, and breach of the peace, and in civil cases when ine sum claimed exceeds fifty dollars. Article nth. All male persons of the age of sixteen years and upwards, and aJl females of the age of four- teen and upwcffds, shall have the right of engaging in marriage ; Provided, that, when eitnei' of the parties Shall be under twenty-one years of age, the consent of the parents or guardians of such minors shall be neces- sary to the validity of such matrimonial engagement. Every ordained minister of the gospel of any religious denomination, the Supreme Judge, and all tlic Justices of the Peace, are hereby authorized to solemnize mar- riage according to law, to have the same recorded, arid OREGON TERRITORY. 431 piy ihe Recorder's fees. AH marriages shall be re- r.ori^od by the Territorial Recorder within one month from the time of such marriage taking place, and being (nade known to him officiaUy. The legal fee for mar- ♦•iage shall be onei dollar, and for recording fifty cents. Article I8th. All offices subsequently made shall be filled by election and ballot in the several districts, in *he most central and convenient place in such district, upon the day appointed by law, and under such regula- ^ons as the laws of lovva provide. Jlrtich liUh, Resolved, that a Committee of throe be tppointed to draw up a digest of the doings of the people of this Territory, with regard to an organization, and transmit it to the United States Government for their •nformation. In every other particular connected with the Judiciary and Military regulntjons of the country, the laws of Iowa were considei applicable, and were consequently formally adopted by ihe fieopi*' assembled rr: niisse at Champoeg, on the 5th of Juh 1843. As the country remained q> f^t as it ^e^fded the Indians, and no particular danger menaced her from without, the military laws slumbered a dead ' tter, and the military officers remained without i militia. The organization, however, continued, ano :i the rest of the laws were uniformly put in force. The expenses of the government for two years after the organisation, were met by voluntary contributions ; somr* of che officers, however, serving without fee or reward In the spring of 1844, a new Legislative Committee was elected, which embraced two or three lawyers, who arrived in the country the ptevious fall. This Committee passsed a vote, recommending several important altera- tions in the Organic Laws, which were found to be, in their practical operations, somewhat defective. As the people had not yet surrendered their law-making power into the hands of the Legislative Committee, it was necessary to call an election, to ascertain the will of tiie people in reference to the proposed alterations and amendments. This election took place, and resulted in 432 OREGON TERRITORY. the adoption of the Organic Laws, with the proposet/ alterations and admendments, by an overwhelming ma- jority. The principal alterations thus effected relate to the three powers of Government, the Legislative, Exec- utive, and Judicial. Instead of a Committee of nine, whose actg^ were to be confirmed or rejected by a subse- quent vote of the people, the Legislative power was vested in a House of Representatives, to consist of not less than thirteen, nor more than sixty-one members, possessing all the powers usual to such bodies. Instead of a Committee of three, the Executive power was vested in one person, to be elected by the quaUfied voters at the annual election, and possessing the powers common to the Governors of the different States. The Judicial power was vested in a Supreme Court, and such Inferior Courts of law, equity and arbitration, as should, by law, from time to time, be established. It was also provided, that the Supreme Judge should be elected by the House of Repregpntatives, and not by the people, according to the provisions of the former Code. All the officers, civil and military, were required to take an oath as follows, to wit : — I do solemnly sw(^ar, that I will support the Organic Laws of the Provisional Government of Oregon, so far as said Organic Laws are consistent with my duties as a citizen of the United States, or a subject of Great Britain, and faithfully demean myself in office ; so help me God. Important changes were also effected in the Organic Laws, respecting land claims. By the previous arrange- ment, the different missions in the country were con- firmed in their occupancy of uie tracts of land of which they had taken' possession, fr the benefit of the Indian tribes, but in the amended Code, no such mission claims were allowed. As the Land Law is quite important, particularly to persons interested to know how such matters are regu lated in Oregon, perhaps it will not be improper to cop) k verbatim .— m'mm ^^^ OREGON TEttRITORY. 4R3 to "Any person now holding, or hereafter wishing to establish a claim to land in this Territory, shall designate 'the extent of his claim by natural boundaries, or by marks at the corners and upon the lines of such claim, and have the extent and boundaries of said claim re- corded in the office of the Territorial Recorder, in a book to be kept by him for that purpose, within twenty days from the time of making such claim ; Provided, that those who shall be already in possession of land, shall be allowed twelve months, from the passage of this act, to file a description of his claim in the Recorder'"* office ; and provided, further, that the said claimant shall state in his record, the size, shape and locality of such claim, and give the names of the adjoining claim- ants ; and the Recorder may require the applicant for such record io be made, to answer on his oath touching the facts. " All claimants shall, within six months from the time of recording their claim, make permanent improvements upon the same, by building or inclosing, and also become an occupant upon said claim, within one year from the date of such record, or, in case not occupied, the person holding said claim shall pay into the Treasury the sum of five dollars annually ; and, in case of failure to occu- py, or failure of payment of the sum above stated, the claim shall be considered as abandoned ; Provided, that no non-resident of this Territory shall have the benefit of the Law ; and provided, further, that any resident of this Territory, absent on his private business for two years, may hold his claim by paying five dollars, an- nually, to the Treasury. " No individual shall be allowed to a claim of more than one square mile, or six hundred and forty acres, in a square or oblong form, according to the natural situa- tion of the premises ; nor shall any individual be allowed lo hold more than one claim at the same time. Any person, complying with the provisions of these ordi- nances, shall be entitled to the same recourse against trespass, as in other cases by law provided. '* Partnerships of two or more persons, shall be allowed 434 OREGON TERRITORY. to take up a tract of land, not exceeding six hundred and forty acres to each person in said partnership, subject to all the provisions of this lav/, and whenever such partner- ship is dissolved, the members shall record the particular parts of said tract which may be allotted to them re- spectively ; provided, that no member of said partnership shall hold a separate claim at the time of the existence of said partnership." It was also determined at the special election, by a vote of the people, that the amended Organic Law should become the law of the land, after the first Tues- day in June, 1845, when the election of a Governor and Members of the House of Representatives was to take place. In the mean time the people of Oregon, though differ- ing as much in their education, their degrees of civiliza- tion and refinement, and their constitutional habits, as they d^ in the color of their skin, continued in their inter- course with one another, to form a remarkably peaceable and quiet community. But, it will not be understood by this, that the Oregonians exhibited no irregularities, no wickedness in their conduct; but simply that in civil regulations, and daily intercourse in matters of business, and in efforts to promote the welfare of the aountry, the community was one of order, gentleness and unanimity. As a proof of this, when steps have been taken to adopt laws from time to time, as the exigencies of the case have seemed to require, though numbers have usually been opposed to the measures, yet, after having been adopted by the majority, they have been universally acknowledged. Those most opposed at first, like true- hearted republicans, would fall in with the majority, and sustain the laws with their entire influence. Another thing that speaks well for the civil order that prevailed in the community before the present organiza tion was established, is the fact, that crimes were very few. True, there were some petty quarrels between white men, but in a very few instances did they amount to blows. So few were the cases of serious litigation, that wheo ^m mmm MM OREGON TERRITORY. 435 the first Circuit Courts were held in the four diflerent counties, there appeared but one case of assault in the whole country, and in that the circumstances were so extenuating that the defendant was fined only twenty- five dollars. The highest charge that came before either Justices or Judges, in Oregon, up to 1845, was against a man for challenging another to fight a duel, who, for a foolish violation of a law which had just been passed, was fined in the sum of five hundred dollars,- and disfranchised for life. It being the first case of the kind in the country, the last part of the sentence was remitted by a special act; of the Legislature. There are vagabonds and scape-gallowses in almost every country, and it would be singular if none had found their way to Oregon. That this may have been the case, appears from a most desperate affray which greatly disturbed the quiet of the community, and which took place in the upper part of the settlement on the Walla- mette river. A man by the name of Joel Turnham, who possessed a most reckless and desperate disposition, committed several outrages upon a peaceful and inoffensive man by the name of Webley Hauxhurst One day, Turnham took occasion to tie his horse in Hauxhurst's oat field, as he had frequently done before, without asking liberty, and then going to Hauxhurst's house, the latter expostu- lated with him for taking such undue liberties with his property. This so enraged Turnham that he seized Hauxhurst by the throat, with the intention of flogging him ; but, while in the act of throwing him to the floor, the wife of Hauxhurst, who was an Indian woman of the Callapooah tribe, seized a board that lay near, and with one blow upon the head of Turnham, for an instant, paialized every muscle in his frame, and brought him staggering to the floor. Soon, however, Turnham ga- thered himself up and immediately left the house, swear* ing vengeance upon the woman, saying, "There is no law against kiUingr Indians.'' Hauxhurst, fearing as well for his own safety, as that Turnham would carry his threat into execution against 430 OREGON TERRlTORr. M the life of his wife, resolved upon taking immediata measures' to secure the arrest of Turnham. Tufnham himself, at the previous election, had been chosen constable, and consequently, L. H. Judson, Esq., on application being made by Hauxhtirst for a precept against Turnham, deputized a man by the name of John Edmonds to take him into custody. Edmonds immedi- ately took the precept, and walking into a shop where Turnham was with a number of other persons, told him that he was his prisoner,, and commenced reading the warrant. Not being able to read it readily, on account of an impediment in his speech, Turnham said, " Here, let me read it;" arid siiatchihg it out of the hands of Edmonds, tore it in pieces, and stamped it beneath hia feet ; and then, seizing a knife in one hand, and a ham- mer in the other, swore he would butcher the first man that attempted to take him. Edmonds called fbr help, but none daried tb cbme nfear. Turnham, therefore, walked out of the shop, mounted his horse and rode off towards the house of Hauxhurst. Another warrant waa issued, and Edmonds Was advised to enter into all neces- sary precautions to take Turnham at ainy rate. Accord- ingly, he proceeded to the Oregon Institute and got Mr. Hamilton Campbell and sonie others, to go and assist him. Supposing that' Tul'rihahi Would fightj and from his desperate and "sanguinary character would doubtless attempt to kill him, Edmonds arnied himself with a re- volving six-barreled pistol that Was sure fire, and pro- ceeded on to Hauxhurst's house. Turnham had been there and ground his large knife, which he usually carried in his belt under his coat, but had left a short time before Edmonds arrived. Looking back from the prdirie over which he wias passing, he saw a company of men as they Were dis- mountmg from their horses, and immediately wheeled his horse around, and rode back upon the full gallop to- wards Hauxhurst's house. As Turnham approached, Edmonds placed himself inside of a small gate which led into the door-yard, with his right hand p'aced on the breecii of his pistol, whitih he carried in br« porliloott'i mmfrfmH!" wmwm mmt"if,ji^iii OREGON TERRITORY. 417 pocket. Turnham, paying no attention to him, came up immediately to tiie gate, and while passing through into the yard, Edmonds put his left hand upon Turnham's shoulder, and said, " You are my prisoner." Turnham immediately drew his long knife and brandished it in Edmonds' face, and Edmonds as quickly presented his six-shooter at Turnham's breast. They eyed each other for an instant, but Turnham, mad to desperation, exclaimed, "Shoot and be d d:" and commenced throwing himself backwards and forwards, from one side of the yard to the other, for the twofold purpose of evading the bullets, and of placing himself in a posi- tion to enable him to make a successful drive upon his antagonist. Those who witnessed the affray, have no doubt but that he was bent upon the death of Edmonds. Some one within the house was heard to cry out to Edmonds, "Why don't you shoot?" At this Edmonda commenced his fire. The first two bullets missed Turn- ham altogether. The third wounded him in his knee, the fourtli in his neck, the fifth in his face, and during all this time he was rushing forward upon Edmonds with the utmost vengeance. When the fifth ball hit him, he clapped one hand to the wound, and cried out, "Oh!" and hesitated a mo- ment as if he would yield ; but gathering himself up for one more struggle, v/hile making his last and most des- perate effort to plunge his knife into the heart of Ed- monds, the sixth ball pierced his temple, he fell and instantly expired. This case was of such a nature, as in the estimation of the Supreme Judge, to demand an investigation by tlie Grand Jury. Accordingly, Edmonds gave bonds for his appearance at Court, and, though iiis enemies labored hard to convict him of murder, yet, when the matter was thoroughly investigated by the Jury, it was pronounced to be a clear case of justifiablo homicide. THE END.