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THE ACADIAN PR(3VINCK:-BY-THE-SEA B\ Arthur W'cntioorth Katou. NO name left by the pioneer French settlers on any part of the North American continent bears about it such an atmosjjhere of romance as the name Acadia. Into the history of the old French forts which mark the Acadian settlements are woven some of the ciioicest tales of love and suffering, of courtly intrigue and heroic adventure, that belong to the history of the French colonization of the western world. Originally of uncertain and varying extent, in 1713, in the treaty of Utrecht, Acadia is considered as extending from the St. Lawrence River on the north to the Atlantic Ocean on the south, and from the strait of Canso on the east to a line drawn tlue north from the mouth of the Penobscot on the west, the country thus being held to embrace the i)rovinces of Nova Scotia, New IJrunswick, Prince Fdward Island, i)art of Lower Canada, or (Quebec, and part of the State of Maine. Little by little, in its various changes of ownershij), the name became restricted to Nova Scotia, New IJrunswick, and Prince Fdward Island ; and at the final concpiest of this territory by the llritish, in 17 10, the name .Acadia as a legal designation quite disappeared, and for the main ])art the fir less attractive name of Nova Scotia took its place. The latter name, how- ever, originated much earlier. In 1621 King James the l'"irst deeded the country to Sir William Alexander, afterwards I'>arl of Stirling, a young Clackmannanshire Scotchman with great ambition and no mean literary gifts, who in the somewhat pedantic fashion of his royal master and of the times, ilesiring to found a New Scotland, as there had already been founded a New Lngland and a New France, gave it this Latin name. In /no. (Xb) 158 r///; ACADIAN PROVINCE-BY-THI'.-SEA. the eager pursuit of schemes for colonizing his new world territory, at last Sir William Alexander, under the patronage and with the support of his friend and sovereign, Charles the First, adopting a plan that Near Digby. had already been used in the Scottish settlement of Ulster, created the famous order of IJaronets of Nova Scotia, whose titles in many cases have descended, among the Scottish nobility and gentry, to our own time. The origin of the name Acadia, or Acadie, does not seem very clear. Sieur de Monts, in jjctitioning his sovereign. King Henry IV. of France and Navarre, for leave to colonize the country, calls it La Cadie, or .Acadie, and the king in his charter calls it La C'adia, the briefer Cadie also elsewhere apjiearing. By some the name is thought to have originated in the Micmac word Quoddy or Cady, a place or region, but this is not at all sure. The romantic traditions of .\cadia be- gin with the ill-fated settlement of the Island of St. Croix, the cherished enter ])rise of the zealous (!ountess de (luer- cheville, and multiply fast with the advent on these western shores of the gallant explorers De Monts, Pout- rincourt, and Champlain, and their friend and fellow- countryman t h e versatile Lescarbot, .Acadia's first historian and poet, whose name is forever enshrined in the early annals of old Port Royal. In 1604, these chivalrous men first guided their shallops into the blue .Acadian bays, and however much the common lust of power and greed of gain may have possessed them, in the jirogress of their settlement at Port Royal they showed tiicmselves good fellows, in whom sentiment and feeling abounded, and who amidst all their necessary toils anil privations, on the rough seas or in the wild forests, never forgot that they were gentlemen. Unlike some the Kng lish colonists, they dealt so kindly and kept such good faith with the Indians that these children of the forest, from Archway in the nfH Fort, Annapolis Royal, built by the French. THE A CADI AN PR O Vh\CE-B Y-THE-SEA. 169 their chief down, were always their warm allies. When their treasury was full they would buy game and fish from the Mic- macs, and wash their savory dinners down with good French wines. When it was empty they would make the best of their lean fortunes, and with gun and fishing rod, on the wooded hills and in the tide-swept river, find their own pro- visions. When I)e Monts would come back after some unsuccessful voyage to remoter parts of his domain, with broken rudder and torn sail, Lescarbot would decorate the fort with laurel and make a jewelled collar and with other insignia of office presided, at the evening's close gracefully choosing his successor and pledging him in sparkling wine. " A f^ay ami gallant i;.ini])any, Those v(iya},'crs of oM, Whoso iifo in tlie Atadian fort I.escarhot's vtrsc has told." After 1 710, the history of Acadia is that (>f an I'lnglish ( olony, l)ut as in con- (piered (Quebec, the hist(iry of an lOnglish colony, a large part of whose inhal)itants looked to the country of the liourlxm, not of the Stuart or Hanoverian monarchs, /i^^'Jfith^^A The Graveyard at Annapolis Royal. — The oldest in America. poem in the noble explorer's jiraise. When Father IJiard converted the okl centenarian chief, Membertou, whose heart had been completely won to these Frenchmen by their generous hospitality and the deference they showed his age and rank, they made his baptism on the shore of the basin an imposing ceremony, and with the echoing woods behind them sang the church's Tr Dciiin loud and clear. The second winter they spent at Port Royal, Champlain founded the famous Old IT dc Bon Tciii/>s, a', whose feasts each of the fwii viTiriif brotnerhood in turn took the ofiice of steward, and in as their fatherlantl. The chapter of Acailian history must widely known treats of a time from forty to forty-five years later than the final llritisli coiKjuest under Nicholson and \'etch, when the liabitaDs of (Irand Pre, Pisi(|uid, IJeau Sejour, and Port Royal were forcibly removed bv the agents of the British ( iovernnient, — \\ ins- low, Murray, Monckton and Handiield, — and scattered as homeless exiles along the American coast from Maine to (leorgia. The incidents connected with the removal of the Acadians from (Irand Pre have often been told in song and story, and the story has lost none of its pathos in it;o THE A ( '.l/)/.LV PRO I INCE-B J -THESE A. Old Barracks at Annapolis Royal, built about 1660. '.^; tlu- tflliiii,'. l.ongft'llow, in his " Mvange- iiiu'," foilowinmiu- ( hronick-sof the Abbe RayiKil, ]ir()duct's u i)irturo of their life which I'arknian, with more accurate knowledge of the facts, in his " Montcalm and Wolfe,'' ruthlessly dispels, liut no matter how widely we are obliged to sep- arate Acadia from Arcadia, there is still quite en(jugh of romantic interest in the story of the country and peo])le of I'^van- gcline to kindle the imagination and touch th'* heart : " Ve who hclicvf in atVi'clion tliat Impcs ami cn- (liircs and is ])atiiiit, \\' u 111) lii'liivo in the JHauty and strcnj»tli nf wduian's dcviitiiin. List to tlic niournliil tradition still sunj,' by the pinus of the forest; List to a Tale of Love in ALadie, home of the happy." The Acadian settlements were scat- tered throimhout the Nosa Scotian Heau Sejour, >\'indsor, (Irand Vxd and .Annajiolis. The true land of Mvangeline may be considered as co-extensive with the famous "(larden of Nova .Scotia," a beautiful tract of country stretching fnjm \\'indsor, formerly called l'isi(|uid, on the .Avon River, not far from the head of Minas Uasin, to .\nna])olis Royal, the ancient capital of .\cadia, called always in French times Port Royal. The Province of Nova Scotia is richer in min- erals than any tract of coimtry of similar extent known to geologists; and here in this (larden of Nova Scotia, seventv-five miles long, lie thousands of acres of wi(le-s[)reading, alluvial dykes, reclaimed from the " turbulent tides " in the first instance by the hands of the industrious I'rench, great orchards where some of the finest fruit in the world is grown, highly cultivated, fertile farms, and hand- Annapolis Basin, from the old Fort. peninsula, but the tragic expulsion of the some homesteads. It is nearly a century .•\cadians, to the ntmiber of six or seven and a h.ilf since the .\cadians left their thousand, was effecteil at four points, wooded upland farms and wide, smooth THE ACADIAX PROVIXCE-nV-THESEA. \n dykf-lands, but there are still many traces oi" these unhap])y people to he seen in slight excavations that were on, ami the luxuriant tim- ber woods, that had before been owned by the Acadians. In this empty ])rov- ince they built themselves new homes and founded a new commonwealth, which in the fierce strife that in less than two The Main Building of Acadia College, Wolfu'le. The Windsor and Annapolis train, which runs from Annapolis to HaliHix, in its course whirls the traveller through several other interesting towns — Bridge- town, Kentville, Wolfville, the seat of Acadia College, with its beautiful view across the liasin of Minas, and Windsor itself. Most of the older inhabitants of these places and of the country about them are descendants of the New Kng- landers who settled the depopulated Aca- dian lands in 1760. The expulsion of the French in 1755 leaving the greater ])art of the province without a European inhabitant, the government issued a pro- clamation throughout New England invit- decades afterward broke out on the American ( ontinent, generally ke]it loyal to the king. Theirs was a golden o])- portunity and they did not neglect it. " riicy came a>i laiiK- the I lt.'l)rc\vs into tliuir jiriiniiseil land, \ot as t(i will! New Kni,'lan(rs shores came (irst the rilgiini l)an(l; The Minas tields were fruitful, and the das- pereau had honie To seaward many a vessel with its freight of yel- low corn.'" In a short time they had repaired the dykes, planted crops, reaped rich har- vests, and become the owners of broad and valuable estates. New Ix)ndon, ^Connecticut, and Newport, Rhode Island, i(;4 Till': . I ( '. // V. /.\' J'J^O I IM •/;-// 1 -THESE A, Sati Slick's House, Windsor, wi-ro tlic two New l'.iii,;laii(l ports ,it whiili tlu-sf rilurims tor thf land ot i'lvaiigrlinc ( hinlv rnili.irktil, .iiid oiu' can lianlly fiiiil a name in ctTtain towns aloni,' tlu' ( 'onni'i'ti( ut shore ot' lon^ Island Sound, on Narraijansctt Hay, or in parts ol' Massacinisitts, whirh is not still wi'U rcprrsi-niL-d in Nova Scotia. Those people were not simply the first land owners, but the chief iiuhlie officials and rejiresentatives to the legislature, and nu'nibers of the le,irne(l professions ^^i the various counties of Nova S(()tia in which they settled. The C'hipinans, ('o,U>wells, henisons, I leW'olfs, I'latons, I lalihurtons, l'e( ks, Rands, Katchfords, Starrs, WillouL^hhys, and others, who have always been prominent in New laigland, have been in inanv instances still more prominent in the .Vcadian l'rovinced)y- the-Sea. jiid,i,'e i laliburton, better known as •' Sam Slick," who died a member of tlu' Itritish House of Commons, one of the most noted literary men the jiritish .\merican C"olonies have prodiuwl, and who is now represented in l'ai<,dand by his son. Sir .Arthur Ilaliburton, was de- scended from the Massachusetts Hersevs The Parlianneit Building, Halifa«. /•///'.• . / ( wni. i.v /%•( ) / 7.V( v'-// ; •_ rifii-si:. i. 16A aiul ( )tisi's. I iu' (.'xclusivi' mk i.il life of Sak-iii and rortsinniilli lon^' had its (out) tiTpart in that <>{' thi'M' old \{>\a Sidtia towns. I lun- was \\u[ one (if lluiu \Thi( h did not have its htth- ariMtocrac y of < ouiiliv s(iuirrs and landowntr^ and lawy<'rs and jndms, aliout wlmin as a brilliant (cntri- the social lik' ot'tlu' town- ship or llu' county revolved. I'lic iiilhix of r»)ry blood and ( iilturr into tlu- six ictv cf the proviiK (■ between 1770 and 17S,; ii in great part a( (otnilable for the hlronj.;ly Ihitish and intensely aristoi ratic fcfling which always in old times ]iri- vaik'd ; l)nt no one < an ki;ow the (ondi- tions of life in Nova Scotia without ficling' that even rnritanisni, under nionanhical in \\ ind-or it-.eh', thai nowhere out nf London (diild ^.ueli l; 1 so< iety bi- found. It^ (ine iilil est.ites liore l.nj,'lish- Noundiui; n.inicN like Martoek, Clifton. ane>i that iiestlid m the thick grovt •> of elm nr 0.1k on tlu-M- plant, iti(Uis. Mere, amoiit,' others, long lived proud old Mith.iel i'r.iiic klvn, a Well known lieuteii int goMTUiu, ami iIk' genial Sam >li( k of judi( ial and literary (an)e. In thoM' days W indsor was Nova S( (Ilia's soli- um\er>il\ town, and this, of course, gave it additional imji'irtanc c at home and abroad. .\s iias bei'ii said, it was the seat of King's Collegi', an insti- A Bit of The Dockyard, Halihx, institutions and not, as in New lingland, separated from the influence of the mother country, is in some ways very different from Turitanism under a republic and in democratic environment. Perhaps the most important of these Nova Scotia towns was Windsor, the seat of King's College, the oldest Colonial college of the Piritish empire. Its early T)opulation was a mixture of New England, Scotch and Irish people, and retired English officers, and it was commonly conceded, at least .ovalist clergymen in tution planned l)y New \'ork, ami aided through many years of its histor\ l)y the Kritish govt-rnment, which ho]ied by its means to keep alive in the colonists a s])irit of loyalty to the Mo- ther Land. King's was founded in i 7()o, shortly after Nova Scotia was erected into a See, and I )r. Charles Inglis, formerly of Trinity Church, New ^'ork, was made its first bishop. To its halls came many young men destined to greatness, such as Mnjor-Cleneral Sir John Kardley Wilmot T 166 THE A CADI AN PR O J INCE-P ) '- THESE A. Inglis, K. C. 1)., lioro of Lucknuw ; Major- Cioneral Sir In-nwick \Mllianis, hero of Kars ; and Major Aii>,'usHis Wclsford, who fell at tiic Redan. Its earlii'st jfovernors were Sir John Wentworth, iSart., Hishop Charles Inglis, Cliiof justice Sampson Salter Mlowers, Alexamler Croke, Jndi^H' of the Court of \iie-.\dniiralty ; Richard John I'niacke. Sjitaker of the House of Assembly and Altorney-Ceneral ; James the choir, opposite the chancel, was a veritable relic of Nova Scotia's old Colo- nial (lays. I'he Loyalist emigration is an event as iini(iue in history as the expulsion of the Acadians antl the a])propriation of their lands. Monarchical countries have fre- (luently become rei)ul)lics, and always to the sorrow and disgust of a ]X)rtion of their inhabitants ; but where, excejjt in Cid St. Paul's, Halifax. Stewart, Solicitor-Cicneral ; and Henning Wentworth, Secretary of t!ie Province. Its enc( enia every year was relatively as much of an event as Harvard Class and ('ommencement Days are in Massachu- setts, the governor, the bishoj), and other high officials, with usually some titled men and handsome women, coming from Halifax and other towns to grace the event. The ancient parish church of Windsor, lately burned, with its (piaint, high pulpit and scpiare pews, and the British arms consi)icuously attached to America, has it ever hai)pened that such a change lias driven thousands upon thous- ands of the most inlluential inhabitants entirely away? Not only Nova Scotia but Cpjier Canada received among its original ])opulation great numl)ers of the staunch Tories of New I'lngland and the Middle States ; and that large unsettled tract of Acadian country since known as New llrunswick owes its existence as a separate ]irovince to the W'ar of the Rev- olution and the fierce legislation of violent American Whigs. I TJIE ACADIAN PROVINCE-BY-rHK-SFA. 1G7 In the Halifan Public Gardens. When the l.oyahsts came to Nova Scotia many of them naturally chose Halifax as their place of residence, but there are other towns in the rrovince (hat l)egan in Revolutionary times. The laces is Shelburne, on the southern coast, now for thri'e-ijuarlers of a century a (luiet, unprogressive vil- lage with a few hundred inhabitants, l)ut in the l)e,L,nnning an ambitious town, dreaming of future greatness and laying its jilans to supplant Ilalifa.x as the (a]ii- tal city. It was planned and l)uilt by New \'ork Loyalists, on the reconnnendation, in the first instance, of Caiitain (iideon White, a young man from Plymouth, Massachu- setts, who before the war was over went through the pleasant exjjerience of being hung by the waist to the liberty-pole of his native town. In .\])ril, i7S^^, plan^ having all been made, a fleet of New York ships containing nearly five hundri'd Jieople, with the well known ISeverly Rob- inson at their head, set sail for the far off coast of .Acadia. .Arriving at Shell)urne, then called Port Roseway, or Kiizcir, they at once began to plan their town, and soon tiuy had laid out five paralli-l streets, sixty feet wide, intersi'cted liv otiurs at right angles, c\ery s(|ii:in' thus made c(m- taiuing >ixtiH'n lots, sixty feet in width and a iuiuilrcd and twi'Uty in de]ith. .At eacli I'Uil of the town they K-t"t a large reservation tor a common, wiiich the en- gineers, with the assistance' of the fatigue parties, rajiidly cleared. A litlJt' later tiie town was divided into north and south, the streets were named, at. 1 every settler was given fifty acres on cu h side of the harbor, besides a town and water lot. Then new settlers began to arrive, until soon after tlu' evacuation of New \'ork, the population ranged somewhere be- tween ten and tweiUy thousand. In 17.S6, says an historian, "Shelburne was a gay and lively ])lace. Mverv holiday or aimiversary was loyally kept and mirth- fully I'lijoyed. On St. .Andrew's day, De- cember 11,1 7.S6, the St. .Andrew's Society gave an elegant l)all at the Merchants' ("offee House to the ladies and gt-ntlemen of Shelburne. The ball room was crowded on the occasion, and the hours of the night jiassed away in the most pleasing manner." In the town were 108 TIJE ACADIAX PROVINCE-BY-THE-SEA. -7-p,»i V ■•* Sketches in Halifax. quartcToil r.ritish troops, and in the har- bor llritish war ships gayly tlew their flags. From the high character of the ]ieo])le who comjioseil the new settlement, it naturally attracted attention in distin- guished quarters, and it soon had visits from notable — even royal — jiersonages, {Governor I'arr, Sir John Wentworth, Sir Charles Douglas, and I'rince U'ilHam Menry, afterwards King William Fourth, deigning to visit it and give it the sanction of their smiles. .Among the old New York families rej)resente(l in the Province at this time were those of Auchmuty, IJarclay, Baxter, IJayard, lleardsley, Hetts, DeLancey, Ditmars, Fowler, Horsfieid, Inglis, Livingston, Merritt, Moore, Murray, Peters, Pine, Rapalje, Remsen, Robinson, Sands, 'I'horne, Van Cortlandt, Watson, Weeks, Wiggins, Wilkins, Willett and Wilmot. Among the Massachusetts families of repute were those of liarnard, lleaman, Ulanchard, l>liss, lilowers, Ilrattle, lirinley, Brymer, Courtney, Cunningham, C'utler, Danforth, DeBlois, Dunbar, (larrison, Gore, Gray, Green, Greenwood, Hill, Howe, Hutchinson, Jones, Kent, Leslie, Loring, ALnot, Perkins, Ritchie, Robie, Kuggles, Sargent, White and Willard. Among the New Jersey families were those of niauvelt, Crowell, Hartshorne, r,awrence, Milledge, Odell, Van P.uskirk, and Van Xorden. ( )f I'ennsylvania fami- lies were the 1 Sutlers, iJissetts, Hoggs', Cunards, Lenoxs' and Marchingtons. Of Rhode Island were the Brentons, Chalo- ners. Coles', Halliburtons and Hazards. Of ALxine were the Gardiners, of New Hampshire the Wentworths, of \'irginia the Penedicts, JUistins, Coulbournes, I )onaldsons. Sears', Saunders' and Wallaces ; of North Carolina the Fan- nings, and of Maryland the Hensleys. In all, the number of Tories who sought refuge for a longer or shorter time in Nova Scotia could not have been much less than thirty-five thousand, and many of these, either in the jieninsula or the newly formed Province of New Brunswick, spent their remaining years. In the older colonies from which they came many of them had been members of council, clergymen of note, and practis- THE ACADIAN PROVING E-BY-TIIE-SE A. ICli ing lawyers and physicians, anil to their new spheres these men brought the same ability they had siiown in the ])ast. 'Thus it was, in part, that for many years the Nova Scotia and New iirunswick legisla- tures and judiciaries were filled with un- usually able and brilliant men. Whatever of interest commonly belongs to an imi)()rtant ilritish naval and military ])ost is found in Halifax. Hegimiing as a naval and military station long before Itritish rule in India was established ; f(jun(led ten years before (^)uebec was taken by the gallant Wolfe, anil nine years before the final ca])ture of I.ouis- l)urg, it soon became one of ]",ngland's chief Colonial ports. To-day it is the only station on the North American con- tinent to which troojis are directly sent, and which the ironclads of her great navy much freuke of Kent's time, Prince William Henry, afterwards King William I\'., as already intimated, came twice here, both times \\\ command of ships of war. In Sir John Wentworth's day, Halifax had a visit of some length frt)m the Duke of ( )rleans, afterwards King Louis I'hilijipe, and his two broth- ers, the Due de Mont])ensicr and C'oimt Beaujolie, and these were the precursors of a long line of royal and high titled visitcjrs, not a few of whom have taken back to the mother country as their wives fair Nova Scotian girls. The mili- tary force of Halifax to-tlay consists of one regiment, and a force of Engineers and Artillery about equal to a regiment, which are distributed throughout the citadel in town, and the various shore batteries in the harbor, — the forts on McNab's and (leorge's islands, and Point Pleasant; I'ort Clarence on the Dart- mouth side of the harbor, and York Re- doubt, far out in the bay. Until a few years ago two regiments were always stationed here ; but because Kgyi)t and Ireland needed more troops, and the dan- ger of attack here seemed comparatively I 172 THE ACADIAN FR0V1NCE-BY~TJIE-SEA. '- *Ti*j»^.'— — — h^^/jM- ^Ka . . ^t!XBE^eE£9V= Cape Blomidon. little, one was finally withdrawn. ISesidcs these forces, there is in Halifax a corps of submarine en'^'ineers especially trained 1)V imperial o.ncers for manning the harl)or defences. The regiments sent to Halifax are almost always among the best in the service. \\'hat Haligonian will ever forget the stalwart fellows of the y.Sth Highlanders, when this regiment was in Halifax a few years ago? A fine sight its men ])resented in their tartans and bonnets as they marched in scjuads from barrack to citadel, or from fort to fort, or turned out for general parade. Soon after, the 6oth Royal Rilles, one of the two regiments socially highest in the service, whose officers are nearly all tilled men, was also stationed here. Between the Army and Navy and the families of the rich civilians — for the city a few years ago was said to have more wealth in projiortion to its si/e than any city on the continent — social life in Halifax, as in most garrison towns, has always been varied and gay. t'ozzens wrote of it nearly half a century ago : " l",VL'rvtliin^ licrc is sugf^cstivc of iniiiciidini,' hostilities; war in Inirnishi-'d trnnpiii^'s iiK-uts you at tlic street corners, ami the air vibrates from time ti> time with bugles, lifes, and drums. liut, oh I what a slow jilaee it is I lOven two Crimean rei^iments with medals and decorations could not wake it up." iff''"' Itii^' Site of the 0!d Grand Pre Church. I /OJLX JiA'OirX. 17;? Quiiint, qiiiot, c;isy-};oini', ll.ilif.ix, slio lias not gainoil umch in monuiituin, ouc is foivi-tl to s.iy, sinco (\v/cns' time. Tlio stalwart n-ginu-nts still toino aiul ^o, tlu'ir glittoiin^' uniforms aihlinj; rich color to tlio otlicrwiso coUl graynoss of the irregular streets of tlie oKl Acadian capi- tal ; the bugle call is still hcanl, night anil morning, from tlic gales of the cita- del ; the sunrise aiul sunset gun still boom on the silent air ; ships laden with valuable West Indian cargoes still float proudly up past C'icorge's Island and anchor, to the nuisic of the lapping tide, beside the slimy wharves ; but the city's permanent population and her wealth in- crease but slowly, ami she chaiiges little in her general aspect from year to year. Halifax, however, aboimds in v.ell-bred hospitality, anil once caught in her little social whirl, admitted to the homes and hearts of the native llali^onians, the visitor will surely find little to censure- and much to love even in the sluggish Kngli>h humors of the chief city ami its people of the Acadian I'rovince-by-the-Sea. JOHN BROWN. By U'il/iiim Jlcibert CaniitJi. HAD he been made of such jioor clay as we, — Who, when we feel a little fire aglow 'Gainst wrong within us, dare not let it grow. But crouch and hide it, lest the scorner see And sneer, yet bask our self-complacency In that faint warmth, — had he been fashioned so. The Nation ne'er had come to that birth-throe That gave the world a new Humanity. He was no mere professor of the word — His life a mockery of his creed ; — he made No discount on the Ciolden Rule, but heard Above the senate's brawls and din of trade Ever the clank of chains, until he stirred The Nation's heart by that immortal raid.