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1 :[

ISrOTES '

OK A

TRIP TO BOW RIVER.

N CRT H - W E ST T E R R iro R I E S.

D. McEACHRAN, F R.C.V.S

VuK-PkKSIDICNT ANB MANACaNG-DlRECTOR OF THE COCHRANE RANCHE COMPANY.

{REPRINTED FROM THE GAZETTE.)

MONTREAL.

1881.

ViCB

SIOTES OF A Trip to Bow River

NO RTF A :. 'I T -" . I I ORIES.

D. McEACHRAN, F.R.C.V.S.

Vice-President and Managing-Director ok the Cochrane Ranche Company.

{REPRINTED FROM THE GAZETTE.)

MONTREAL

i8Sr

NOTES OF A TRIP

FORT BENTON. MONTANA,

VIA

BISMARCK, DAKOIAH, AND THK MISSOURI RIVKR.

By D. M« EACHRAN, F.R.C.V.S.

One of tbo tirst results of the ^i^autic un-
dertaking to build the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way, which is to connect ocean to ocean by
an iron road running throiiijh Canadian ter-
ritory, was the formation of companies for
the purpose of establishing extensive cattle
ranches in the rich grazing belt of land form •
iug the slopes and foot-hills of the Rocky
Mountains. Most glowing reports of the
fertility of the soil, the mildness of the
climate, the abundance of water and the in-
exhaustible growth of rich, nutritious grasses
were published by surveyors and others who
had visited " the Great Lone Land,' and this,
together with the knowledge of the fact that
within a very short time this rich belt would
be accessible by railway accommodation,
created a speculative interest in the new
territory thus about to be opened up. The
first to move in this matter was Senator
Cochrane, of Comptou, who, after a careful
consideration of the matter, induced the writer
to associate himself with him in the enter-
prize, and after visiting Chicago and St. Louis
and putting himself in communication with
ranchmen of experience, and collecting what
reliable information could be obtained, and
in view of the prospective emigration of
thousands of agriculturists and stock -raisers,
who would necessarily seek homes in that
great prairie land as soon as its soil, climate,
and boundless extent became known, it was
determined to form a joint stock company,
and at once proceed with the undertaking.
After the necessary formalities being com-
plied with, letters patent were granted to
Hon. M. H. Cochrane, D. McEacbran, James

j A. Cochrane, John M. Browning and James
j Walker, the name of the firm being "The

Cochrane Ranche Company " (limited), and
I the necessary application for land was made.
; Applications for tracts ot land f^r grazing

l)urpo8es were also ma<le by Mr. Jonas Jones,
; Mr A. P. Patrick, Messrs. Gibbs & Morgan,
' Mr. Fred. Stimson, Mr. J. P. Wiser, M.P.,'and

Captain Milburne.

The following notes were written as a

diary of the trip which was made to the Bow
\ River district, for the purpo.se of selecting
I the location for the ranche, and were not in-
I tended for publication — except for private
, distribution among the friends of those who
I accompanied us, and it was only on the ur-
; gent solicitation of several triends who had
■ perused the notes that the writer consented
i to give them to the press in their hurriedly
, written and crude form.

1 OUR PARTY,

consisting of Hon. M. H. Cochrane, Comp-
\ ton; Mr. James Gibb, Quebec; Mr. Fred Stim-
i son and the writer, left Montreal on Thurs-
day evening, 2nd June, and proceeded direct
; to Chicago, where we arrived without acci-
dent or incident worthy of recording. Here
' we met Messrs Wiser, of Prescott, and Mr.
' F. Lewis, of Montreal, wuo joined us, and
after a hurried visit to the stock yards we
' returned to the Grand Pacific Hotel and sat
down to a most enjoyable dinner, such, in
fact as can only be got there, at which con-
I siderable amusement was afforded by the
I masterly appetite of one ot the party who
astonished the colored waiters by the num-

NoTE.— t)wing to the manuscript of the trip up tlie Missouri liaving been left atCalgarry,
the notes previously pnbhshed commenced ai Fort Benton. We now present to our readers
.some interesting descriptious of a .steamboat journey ou the Mis.^ouri River.— Enixou.

ber of hih orders and rapidity with which the
rituals (IJHuppeared.

In the eveuinfr we left for St. rani, Minn ,
passinf.' throufjh IllinoiH, northern Iowa,
Vi'i cousin ami AlimicHota. We reached St.
k«cl ou Sunday inorninR, put up at the Mor-
chanu;' Hotel, where we were comft^rtably
cared toi, drove around the city and acroHS
the great bridge which spaus the MinsiKKippi,
the flats on the opposite shore of which
show ani[)le evidence of the recent floods,
during which many houses were lifteti off
their f<jundations and thrown on their sides.

St. I'aul is comparatively a new
city, but its growth and business
progres.- is simply astonishinp. It
can boa^t ot several streets of handsome
substantial stores, numerous palatial reni-
dences, the whole place having the air of
business progress and the boom ot prosper-
ous times. Leaving St. Paul in the even-
ing, we reached Bismarck, Dakota Territory,
about G.30 the following evening, having
pasFed tlirough thu great wheat zone of
Dakota, oi whi< h Fargo is the centre. The
great wheat farm, known as the Dalrymple
Farm, of which so much has been written,
wsp pointed out to us. Not having stopped
there, wt- ran only give passing impressions,
and thty wlmc uuanlmously favorable The
land is flat, open prairie, of a rich, black soil,
level as a table as far as the eye can reach.
As we pass, tlu' enormous wheat tiolds look
green and promising Of all the lands which
we have passed through the country round
Mapleton and Fargo impressed u.- most
favorably.

RisMARCK.

Biflmarik, is 7> Melon frontier town. Until
very recently it was the terminal station of
the Northern Pacific Railway and the ship- i
ping port ot the Western Missouri. It was '
started in 1875. by the opening of a whiskey ■
(Shop, and to-day it contains a population of :
over 'JjnOOibut it is evident that the examjile
set by the pioneer has been faithfully ,
followed by new comers, lor at least ,
three- fourths of the buildings are grog-shops,
gambling-houses or places of amusement. '
The principal hotel is also the railway sta- ,
tion, called " The Sheridan House,' kept by |
mine host Blv, and may be considered as a i
fairly comfortable hotel. Here we were j
joined by Hon Patrick Lyon, Capt. Winder, i
Mr. Chipman, a Nova Scotian, Mr. S. GiOb I
and Mr. Sl)arples, of Quebec. Here also we [
met the rirst consignment of stock for the j

Cochrane Ranche, coneiHting of five uhort-
horn and three Hereford bulls from the Hill-
hurst herd at Conipton, also fourteen raaroH,
two thoroughbred stallions, (" Mosstrooper,"
by " Milesian," and " Konrad," by "Morgan,")
a large jackass and an imported Hheep-dog,
and a tine mastiff, '< The MarcjuiH," all under
the charge of Major E. A. Bayues. Having
three days to wait for our steamer, we made
what purchases we required, and took advan-
tage (»f an otfer of a high Government func-
tionary to show iiK the '* city by gaslight."
Our first visit was to a '< keno " gambling-
house, where we stayed but a Hhort
time, the disgusting sight of see-
ing gambling in its worst form, and the
foul air and still fouler language soon drove
U8 trom the place, none of us caring to stay
long enough even to comprehend the game,
which was new U) us. VVe next visited a
faro-bank, when- similar scenes presented
themselves, and money, in most cases hard-
earned, and the Iosk of which could be ill-
atforded, passed hand.^ as rapidly as it could
be counted. We could not help remarking
the general expression of abandonment de-
picted in th«! faces and nervous expression
of the frequenters of these dens. Our next
I)lace of visit was to the '' opera house," a
wooden structure, the entrance to which is a
bar-room. At the counter tickets had to be
procured, the charge for entrance to the
ground lloor being twenty-five cents, to the
bo.es fifty cents. The building is about
th.rty feet wide and about seveuty-tive feet
deep. We looked into the pit. Here we
saw a sawdust-covered floor, rough, unplaned
board seats, and fitting, lounging or walking
around were about forty or fifty of the rough
frontiersmen, drt-ssed with all the careless-
ness of the lift- they lead, some with coats on,
many without, all with large, wide-brimmed
hats, nearly all smokiuir or chewing tobacco.
The Missouri .-teamboat "rooster," the
teamster, the cow-l.<oy and the street gamin,
were all itpre.^eiited. Ascending the narrow
stairway we reached the gallery, which was
partitioned i^tf into a row of curtained bor.es,
in which were seated in lounging attitudes
the better-oft class dressed in the height of
regular fashion, rings and paste diamonds
forming a conspicuous part of their dress.
These boxes are connected with the stage by
a narrow stairway on each side, by which
the actresses reached the boxes and spent
their time between the acts, being regaled
by beer or champague according to the
ta,dte or extravagance of the occupants ;

hands
haired
visit, fe
wrong
such
even or
Befoi
portant
sions
tion th(
regulat
ness in
The
Hon.
Captaii
Stinson
man, M
Mr. D.
On tl
Cochrai
writer
discuss
to the 8
Northw
J. P.
and res
tiie fol
present
said N(
that th(

abouthalf ado/.cn women arted aR waitern,
and their (IreHH, niannerH and loorfe conduct
and converHation indicate<l the life of im-
morality which tliey lead. Tht^ Hcimnry
and Hurronndinf^H were of the moHt primi-
tive nature, and the Hinging and acting? were
execrable. While we were lodkin^ on a
large woman with a voice like a cow-horn
attempted to Hing avulgar ditty, "Cham-
pagne and oyHterH."

The orchcHtra couHinted of four pieces,
lead by a cornet player who, aH one of our
party remarked, muHt have been eating
oniouH, HO disagreeable was the toot-toot of
his brassy instrument.

We next visited "the varieties," a com-
bination of a gambling hell, drinking shop
and concert ball. This place seenuvl to be
more frequented than the other, and like it
was filled by the most demoralized of men
and women. We only waited long enough
to see a spectacular (tableaux vivaus) repre-
sentation of "Charity" (?) but as we considered
that it would be a charitable act f«»r the ex-
hibitor to have supplied a little more cloth-
ing to cover the stout biit by no means shape-
iy limbs of the painted beauty, and having
paid toll by taking cigars apiece from the
hands of a most accommodating carroty-
haired female waiter, we terminated our
visit, feeling that there must be " something
wrong in the State of Denmark" to allow
such demoralizing establishments to exist
even on the frontier.

Before leaving Bismark we held an im-
portant meeting to consider certain provi-
sions which we thought necessary to peti-
tion the Northwest Council to include in the
regulations governing the stock raising busi-
ness in the Territory.

The following gentlemen were present : —
flon. M. H. Cochrane, J. P. Wiser, M.P.,
Captain Winder, Mr. W. F. Lewis, Mr. I^'red.
Stinson, Hon. Patrick Lyon, Mr, J. E. Chip-
man, Mr. James Gibb, Mr. E. A. Baynes, and
Mr. D. McEachran.

On the motion ot Mr. J. P. Wiser,- Senator
Cochrane was called to the chair, and the
writer was appointed secretary. After freely
discussing the following suggestions relating
to the stock-raising interests of the Canadian
Northwest Territories, it was moved by Mr.
J. P. Wiser, seconded by Captain Winder,
and resolved — "That a petition embodying
the following resolutions be prepared and
presented to the Governor and Council of the
said Northwest Territories, humbly praying
that the same or similar regulations for the

protection of stock-raisers in the TerrltorleB
do become law : —

First — That all cattle and horses must be
brmtib-d, and all brands uiu^^t he rcL(ister*Mi
and advertised tor a reasoiiiilile length of
time each year in at least one newspaper in
the Ntirthwest Territories and one pulilished
in Montana, United States, and that any
person or company eng.iged in stock-raising
in these Teiiitories tailing to do so within
three monliisofthe beginning of each year,
or of his starting a st(Kk-rai.-<ing ranche, he
shall, on conviction, pay a line not exceed-
ing $100.

Secondly — That a time be specitied by law
• luring the s[irin^ and autumn ol eat'li year,
at which tbtf round-up for the district shall
commence, and be continued until all the
cattle liave been branded, and that the termi-
nation of the round-up shall lie ended by a
majority vote of the re|)resentatives of each
ranche. Of this date dut; notict^ shall be given
by proper advertisement, and that any^person
failing to comply with this regulation shall
be suhject to a penalty not i-xceeding $500,
the half of .'^aid line to go to the intormer.

Thirdly — Any person found on the prairies
or travelling with brands in their possession
unless satisfa<torily accounted for, during
the period presc rilied by law at which no
branding shall be done, shall, on conviction,
bo subject to a penalty not exceeding $100.

Fourthly — In case of any dispute of the
ownership of an animal, it shall bo decided
by three disinterested persons chosen by th«
vot(!S of a representative of eacii herd, and
from this decision there shall he no appeal.

Fifthly — Every person or persons who
cultivates land within the district proclaimed
by Government as set apart for grazing pur-
poses, mu.st fence in and protect their crops.
The owners of cattle within said area of graz-
ing land shall not be responsible lor any
damage which may be done to their crops by
stock.

The meeting was adjourned to meet at
Fort Benton on arrival of the steamers about
sailing from Bismarck.

(Signed,) M. H. C(iCHKANK,

J. P. WlSKIl,

W. F. Lkwis,
Jamks Gini!,
J. E. Chapman,

W. WiNUKK,

Patrick B. Lyon,
F. S. Stimson,
D. McEachran.

The |Tlii<!lpal objnrtH of interent In the ' Rhowern down Jiotn th«' Hmoke-Htark, would
uelghborhodd ol lUHiimrck nrv the MiHHOiui Im* olten onjoyi'd by tli.' |mNrten><erri.
Uivt)i-,Hn(l tbn exteuHivtJ bridgeH in th»' comnv 'I'lic (trticerH' looms iin- Imilt on thiK d»'tk,
ol erection uiiokh therivjMtn Miiudiin Owini? itnd iibovi tbcHr lowtM (lit- pilot-hoUHiv The
to the (iui(.krtumlH wliiclj ioiin the bottomot piopullin^,' ixuvt-r < ouHislM ol ii laiK'' wbfi'l,
the river, it iK ueceBHury to go down nixty nboiit thirty Iwt with- and tw«inty t<'«;t in
feet to gt't a nx k tomuition tor the pit'is of, diiinieter, placfd ucrosH Mh* Htern, tlif utility
the bridgeH. Alrt'udy a cousidcrablt^ sand- <»l widcli whk not at (irHt appannit , liowevor,
bar i8 formed fully halt-way a. roHS the riv«'i. we uftrrwurdH exjierieiu ed the lac t that in
ThiH in Niich II uiovin^ bed Ik eariily aci on>- | many places of thJH iiv»M Hide-wheeiri or
pliHhed l(V siiuply iliivinir in a lew poHtw ln're ncrewH would be UHidess from tlu- (pumtity of
and tliereand |tlaiiun a few logrf acnmH , it drift limber iind tlie KhallowucKs of

IS astoulshiuf; liow fant a Hand-bur will
form

Fort l.iucoiu ib situated JumI opposite
BUmarck ; it is similar to all Ameritan
trontier forts, and is worthv of note only as

the
rivei

Two objects attrai-t the attenlion ot a
stirtugei. 'i'here are two large poles, like
derricks, one at each sitle ol the Ih)W, sus-
peiuled by blockii iugh eiiougii ttt clear the

being the head<|uarters ol the late Ueneral water ; these we afterwards found t(» be very

useful a(>pendages. When Ihe boat sticks
fust, us she often does in the shallows id the
river, whose bed is ((uistuntly sliilling, and
where a dee[» channel is found t»>-day a
shallow sand bank umy be in a week, these
poles iir>' lowered down, and by aid ol steam
wiutllusses wtukint^ ropes through the blocks,
Ibc bout is iilti'd Ol pushed otV or over tlie
funk.

Our lirsf night on board was spent at
the lauding, ami here we experienced a
terrific thunder-storm, the loud peals ot
which rent Ihe air and hubhed all
natiue into silence, and the torrents of

Custer, who, with his whole ccmmand, al»out
300 men, was killed at the Bluck Hills hy
the Indians.

A .MISSOlltl STKA.MKOAT.

Otir stcttnier 'i'lie Ked Cloud, of the Kuker
Line, having iii rived, we puid her u visit,
and it iiiiisf be .idiiiitted that many
ol tlie ways and tilings which
Ht'emtd prindtive and l^eliind the ui/e, by
practical experience of a trip on tlit^
river, have convinced us that cir-
cumfitan( es alter cases, and that what
will suit on one river will not

answer on unolhei. Tlie bout is about 250 | rain caiisetl a rai)id rising of the river. The

fet;t long by aliout M feet wide. She draws
?. leet ti imhes when loaded lo her ( apacity.
The main deck is about lour feet ulM*ve the
water, and bus projecting wings which over-
lap it, and on wide h she <arrieH her lirewootl.
The licdd is tour feet deep, and extends
through her whole cxftuif. Tlie boilers and
furnaces are aniidsbipK, and are not covered
in. The engine lioiise in in flm stern; if is
partially enclosed, in the spate betwe(>u
the boilers untl engine-room, freight of all
kinds is packed, and for the present our
horses and bulls are stable<l. The sei'oud
deck is the saloon and stato-rooms vvhi<li con-
sists ol a long open saloon, wliich is also the
dining-room, in which ai<^ live taldes. If is
a comfortahle, uell-liglited room, with a
stove at each end, wliich art' lit wln^u re-
quired. There are Jli state-rooms, eapnble
of acjiomnujdafing about .'iO passengers. Th«(
<-ook-hoii9e and kitchen art; off tbe sab»ons.
In rear is a ladies' cabin, opening t)li' which
are two large rooms. Above tliis deck is
another deck, affording a promeuade which,
were it not for the tailing cinders which

storm, however, was <»f short duration, ami
glorious sunshine anil clear atmosphere was
followed by a feeling of relief and lightness
which is s«> tuijoyablt; after the heat and de-
pression preceding a summer storm.

TUK .MKN HTIUKK.

Here, hc.vever, we found that though far
away o»i the frontier ami alnu)Ht beyond
civilization, the curse of modern times had
reached, and we had to submit to a vexatious
delay because tin? crews of all the boats were
on "a strike.' Fortunately lor us, our cap-
tain succeedt^d in nudcing terms, and we
pulled (jut and crossed to the Mandan sitle
t)f the river b^ast they shttuld again " go out,"
and here we had to wait for eight precious
hours for the purser — or clerk, as he is called
— wlu) was asiiore, and as his antics betrayed
when iie arrived, lie hatl been enjoying him-
self with the inebriating cup.

OUR CAPTAIN AND CRKW.

The captain is a quiet, shrewd American.
He has had a long experience of boating on

thin rivor , lio HuyH hiil httio, thinkH a koocI
il(*nl Hrul iittt'^nriH t(» IiIk hiiHinuHH ; ho nuitlior
HHiok) s nor driiikH, aud allows no
liquor (o Imi Hold on tho l)oat. Our lirHt
niatf, a MomphJH • man, in t\w <-ou-
voTHo «it liJH Kupcrior, clitn^k in Hlainpud on
hiH tact> and bin ton^ni«f knowH no hridic, ho
eHtiniatuH hiH knowlcd^o and a(;({uiroinontH
at noHnuill ti|,;nro. What ho haH not Koon or
dono, or whoro ho han not l)ooii, would ho
UHoloHK to ima^'ino. IIo Ih renplondont in
whito Hhirt an<i diamond pin, in ^ivinf; IiIk
addroHH ho iH itnperiouH, and tho wiL'ht who
laj,'K within hin <»i)Horvation Ih <«)vor»'d with
ahuHo and railory, liborally intorniixod with
oathH Kiioh an a MvniphiK man only can ma-
nufacturo. Hv. doli^htH in Hpinuingyarnn ot
hiK oxploitK in tho lato uuploaHantuoKH, as iif.
torms tho rohollion, ho havin>,' nerve*! in
hoth tho army and navy al that timo.

Tho lu'dHaru hoth cloan and ctmifortahio, ox-
oopt a lew rooms in which bod-hugHarc said (o
exist. Tho tahio is ^ood and a lair varioty
ist;ivon, hut tho hours uro absurd, broaktast j
at sov(!n, dinnor af twelve, au'l lou at six.
Thr w'id(;r is takon bom thcrivor, and is i
simply a thin mud of a rod clay color ;it is |
allowcil tosottbi in tubs, when tho thickest I
mud tails to tho bottom, and tho settled
Witter looks like a mixture otclay and milk. I
This is frctoly drank by all on board, and j
many otthc men proler to <lip (In* water out
ot tho river. Suspecting tho nature oi this
acpieous iluid, wo furnished ourselves with a
tiiter, and would it ho credited, wo went only
allowed to use it with tho conHout of tht; i
captain, and after tho first day, unless wo
tilled it ourselves, no one olso would do so. '
On suf^:,c;estinf; to tho steward that they '
should supply tillers for tho steamer, and '
that only tiltored water should be used ; ho I
laughed at tho idea. " Why," said ho," 1 never I
drink Iho settled; waiter when I lind it;
sottli^d 1 stir it up; prefer to drink it out of I
the river ; it is very healthy ; I have drank it !
thirty yoars and lc»ok at mo, 1 am, for sixty, j
a fresh looking man yet. Don't you know |
that a lot ot fellows barrel that water and !
send it Kast for people to drink, and make |
lots of money out of it.'' So we saw little'
( haiH.'o for introilucing tliis sani- '
tary improvement. Fortunately for us I
wo sn[iplied ourselves with a stock of appo- |
linaris and lemons and a few bottles of
biaiK.Iy, and wo escaped .iny injurious «'tfects
01 tho dirty water of tho Missouri. Our
progress is extremely slow, owing to a com-
bination of causes, such as tho swiftness of

tho ourrHht, which in some plac*.* is no rapiil
auto make it nfUm doubtful if we (an stem
It — treijuent stoppages necossaiy to ro|)leDiHh

I our Wood sujtply, and stoppages to allow tho
sodimitnt ot mud to bo cleano<l out of tho
boilers, nectiSHitating the lotting out of tho
tires and v . ape of Iho steam. Wo havoalH4t

i lost lime, ..aving to lake shelter from h
high wiml and repealKiiy getting agr-und
on niud-baiiks, and last, but not least, tho
serpoutino windings ot the groat river, which

I olten lakes a course c«)verin!; lorly miles to

I reach a straight point of live or ten.

riKi.Nu rr To a hank.

I Tho banks tor the most part are about
! six foot above the level of tho wator,
' and Ht places usually sj'lectod l«»r land-
ing (onsist ot a loo-ie aluvial soil or
j olso .soil of a sandy nature. Wh»)r») trees
j are within reach, the bow- line is
I Httaclied to the luiaresl and a gangway and
plank ari! passttd ashorti. Wluiro thi-rtj are
no trees, tliey put out •■ dead men," which
ronsisls ot a stick of firewood buried in a
h(»le three or tour feet di'cp round wliich tho
lino is lastenod ; it is not put in like a post,
but buried lengthways.

Wo stop usually twice a day for wootl,
using, as she does, forty-tivo cords a day.
This is mostly supplied liv white woodsmen
Itut ottt!!!, loo, l)y Indians, .vho got paiil geno-
arlly in provisioi>san<l necessaries. In this sort
of barter the rednian is usually discontented
and suspicious ol his while custonivir, pro-
bably not without reason, although in tho
instance we are recording, I believe they wore
fairly clealt with. At these places tho jjas-
sengers usually go ashore and roam about for
tho short timo sIm! is tied up, and while sorao
look around for a shot, others gather wild
flowers, whi(;h grow abundantly, ospeeially
wild roses, some of which are really lovely.
Tho traveller who, starting for lli«! wild un-
peopled country of the great West, usually
imagines that he will lind lots of game when-
ever ho lands, anc' that he will seo all sorts
from the decks of th(! steamboat. Let my
reader disabuse his mind of that falacy.

Tho story hook and the emigration pam-
phlets are not to i)e trusted on these points,
nor is it well to bo too ('redulous of the trav-
eller's stories of tlu; abundance and easy
access of game. Wo iiave now, at this dat»;
o\' writing, Ijeen eight days on the river, hav-
ing covered 588 miles and lauded about half
a doaen times, ami all the game we have
seen has boon one antelope, one deer^ and

I'
i, ■'

t- '

Reveral broods of ducks and geese. Yet both
the officers and passengers have old-time
stories of extraordinary abimc.anre of game
on the river.

The first sigLl of an Indian settlement
which we iiail was al Fort Berthold, l.'»G
miles from Bismarck. AVe diduot lanri here,
but called to take on a passenger. VV'liat a
motley crow they arc ! the men, in many in-
stances, having no covering but a blanket.
The squaws usually had leggings in addition
to the blanket Some iiad calico dresses.
The hlaidi'.'ts were of all colors. A few of
the bra. es were ornamented with necklaces
of beads and ear ornaments of shells. The
men strolled about in lazy indifference, while
the women and old men squatted on the
ground, covering all but the face with the
blanket. There are about 1,500 at this
agency.

Our next view of •• the noble red man" was
a glimpse of part of ^Sitting Bull's tribe, who,
having surrendered to the ITnitetl States
Governmout, were being conveyed in live
Lteamboats to Fort Yates, or Standing Kock
Agency, about seventy miles below Bismarck.
There were about 1,700 men, women and
children squatting about in all forms, some
of the big warriors displaying their paint,
costumes and handsome forms by temporaril}'
throwing open their blankets. It seemed
hard, after all, to see these people, owners of
the soil, being carried hundreds of miles
away from their homes, to be kept as pris-
oners of war, simply for defending their
homes from the aggressions of the white
r!an.

At Fort Jiuford we passed the night, and
hert: T?'! had our mail sent ashore. We
sevei'^i i mes interviewed l!\dians, from
wfaOKx v\ , ,:<.:ght wood. We passed Poplar
Creek .ij,eucv about half iiast live in the
trurr»:a., Hero there are about 4,000 In-
^I'uiis T;,u iL'dges were about a mile trom
t,!«-r river and looked like hundreds of cones
placed without regard to regularity, the camp
being enveloped in a lazy cloud of smoke,
arising no doubt from the tires
being kindled by the squaws for the
preparation of the moir-ing meal. Only a
few came down to the boat. Among these
we noticed a beautiful dusky maiden, clean
and ne-it, with a beautilul blanket, fancy
leggings, ear-rings and beads, her long black
hair in three plaits, her forehead painted a
yeilowish red, the parting of her hair also
painted red. She had beautiful teeth and a
majestic walk, as she folded her blanket over

her and followed what appeared to be her
father, who was also a tine type of a man.

Our next interview with the nativcH was
at a wooding place. Here the contrast was
most striking. The party consisted of
four males and three females, one of
which carried a papoose. Two of the men
wore very common leggings Jiud blankets.
C)iie ol them had nothing but a shirt of dirty
cotton, which was marked by hieroglyphics,
his loog, straight hair dirty and unkempt,
his thin, dusky legs covered with mud, and
the peculiar manner in which he squatted on
the ground was animal-like in attitude. The
shy, suspicious look of the females betokened
the uncivilized condition of the tribe to
which they belonged, and had we not formed
more favorable impression before meeting
these, our ideas of the Indian would have
been perhaps unjust.

At Wolf Creek Agency, where there are
between 3,000 and 4,000 Indians, their wig-
wams covering a large tract of land. They
cultivate corn and barley. They have about
forty acres of corn, which looks well. They
have several hundred ponies. About 150
men, women and children came down to see
the boat. Just before the arrival of the
steamer, a poor little Indian boy had fallen
'• over the bank into the river and was
j drowned. This may have increased the
numbers who crowded the bank. Here we
had a tine opportunity of seeing the different
classes which form an Indian encampment.
" Red Bird," the chief, did not favor us by
appearing, but his wife and sister were there,
but were it not for the wife of the agent,
Mrs. Porter, who pointed them out, there was
nothing about their dress to indicate their
high social standing. There were squaws of
all ages and sizes, while the major. ty were
hideous to look at, dirty, old, wrinkled and
almost mumitied, squatting like animals and
retiring withiu their blankets. There were
many young, fresh and vivacious, full of fun
and evidently appreciating any little marks
of attention. Some were resplendent in all
the finery of Indian belles, armlets of large
brass or copper rings, earrings of pink or
blue coifed shells, strings ot beads, orna-
mented moccasins and leggings and fancy
colored blankets. The braves were even
more ornamented than the squaws. One, a
magnificent fellow, dressed in a grand
buffalo-robe, with belt and shoulder strap,
ornamented with beads and a large, bright
tomahawk in his belt ; in physique and atti-
tude he would fill the most glowing picture

of the noble ladian of the story books. Our
mate bargained for the robe, but as the
\varrior had no other garment on to hide his
nakedness, he agreed to deliver it on the re-
turn trip of the boat. About a doaen were
mounted ou fairly good ponies, one or two
were magnificently dressed in orna-
mented hunting shirts of buckskin,
leggings, belts, beads, hatchets, knives,
cartridge belt, copper bracelets, beads
and earrings, their faces painted a dark
copper red. The majority, however, had
only leggings.with cartridge-belt in which the
cartridges were strung in a row, the belt
holding about 30 or 40 cartridges, buckled
round the waist, and all covered by the
blanket, most of them having the improved
Winchester repeating rifle.

INDIAN POLICE.

We tound here that a system oi police was
in operation among the Indians at these
agencies, the constables being distinguished
by badges, and at some of the agencies by a
uniform of a blue blouse and trousers.

"At all agencies Indian policemen act as
guards at annuity payments ; render assist-
ance and preserve order during ration issues ;
protect agency ouildings and property ; re-
turn truant pupils to school; search tor and
return lost or stolen property, whether be-
longing to Indians or white men ; prevent
depredations on timber, and the introduction
of whiskey on the reservation ; bring whiskey-
sellers to trial ; make arrests for disorderly
conduct, drunkenness, wife-beating, theft,
and other offences ; serve as couriers and
messengers ; keep the agent informed as to
births and deaths in the tribe, and notify
him promptly as to the coming on to the re-
serve of any strangers, white or Indian.
Vigilant and observant by nature, and iami-
Ijar with every lootpath on the reservation,
no arrivals, departures or clandestine councils
can escape their notice, and with a well dis-
ciplined police force an agent can keep him-
self informed as to every noteworthy occur-
ence taking place within his jurisdiction.
Violation of the laws and regulations govern-
ing ludian rerservation are punished by
tine or iniprisonmont." — Report of Commis-
sioner of Indian Affairs Jor the year 1880.

8ome of our parly pleased the braves by
giviug them tobacco and the fair maidens by
candies, of which they seem very fond. One
of our party, more gallant than the rest, be-
came fascinated by the pleasant smile, the
white teeth and pretty face of a dusky

maiden, jokingly expressed a wish to have
her for his own, a wish which, unexpectedly
to him, was communicated by an interpreter
to her mother and brother, who agreed to
make her his for the consideration of four
ponies, which would cost about $60 to $80.
This little bit of romance furnished us with
no little amusement. However, our jocular
friend, thinking discretion the better part of
valor, and not knowing exactly how his first
wife would approve the addition to the
family circle, added another proof to the
adage that men are deceivers ever. It was
evident that, whatever the feelings of the
maid may have been, her brother was not a
little disappointed in being done out of his
ponies.

Here also, just as we were leaving, we saw
what appeared to be a race on ponies, five
braves starting Irom the camp in full gallop,
each urging his steed to the utmost till lost
to view on the distant plain.

Our attention was dire:;ted to their dogs,
two of which were as large as stag hounds,
with pointed noses, pricked ears and wolfish
eyes, with a slinking disposition, evidently a
hybred between the domestic dog and the
prairie wolf

For two days and nights we slowly steamed
up the current,around the lazy windings of this
torturous river, the repeated ring of the bell
calling for SQundings,andthe slow sing-song
call of the watch as he dips his pole or
lead-line and drawls out in monotonous
tones, which are repeated in as nearly
as possible the same monotone by the
colored boy on the upper deck
for the benefit of the pilot :— No-h-o — B-a-tt-
aam," " Ae-te — faet-e," " Sae-xe — fae-te,"
" Four leet large,'' " Mark twain,"t " Quarter
less twain," " Sevan tae-te," and so it con-
tinues till the depth oi water warrants the
pilot in proceeding, or else it gradually shal-
lows down till we are stuck in the mud and
have to back out and find another channel.
In many instances they have to use the
spurs and purchase-blocks to push her off as
already described. Often, too, it is neces-
sary to put out the yawl and take soundings
in all directions till a channel is found.

A DEER KILLED IN THE V, ATER.

On the eighth day out we had the mono-
tony broken by the discovery of a poor lone

i We here discovered the origin of the nom- de
plume of the American novelist, two tathoms
(twelve leet).

doe, which evidently had swam across the
river and landed where the bank was high,
and being thus discovered was at the mercy
of the merciless sports. Seeing escape on
the land impossible, she took to the water
and nobly struggled for dear life, hut the I
progress of the boat and the downward force I
of the current soon brought her within range
of the five rifles, which opened a fusilade
on her. Fifteen shots were discharged, '
and despite her noble efforts and the |
ardent wishes of our fair passengers
for her escape, a Vnillet from the rifle of our \
mate fractured her spine immediately in j
front of her shoulder, and death was instan- \
taneous. The yawl being put out the steamer !
backed, and in a short time the beautiful I
creature was taken on board, and prepared
to be cut up for Sunday's dinner.

BDFFALO IN S1«HT.

On Sunday morning after breakfast, while
we were comfortably enjoying the warmth of
the saloon stove, the cry of " bufifalo in sight"
caused ns all to spring to our feet, and hast-
ening on deck we observed six or eight of
the wild cattle of the plains about a mile
distant, which by the aid of a tiehl-glass we
were able to distinguish as the long looknd-
tor buflalo. Distant though they wero the
sight had the eftect of restoring our hitherto
shaky confidence in the talcs wc liad hrard
and read about of the herds of bulValo still
to be seen in these wilds through which wv,
pass. Here and there freshly-tranj]H'<l paths
from the tiail to the water were seen. Doubt-
less thousands exist and could l)e found on
the upland prairies or in the canons of the
mountains, but the noise of the approaching
steamboat no <loubt frightens Iheni out of
view.

On the tenth day we find ihe river uar-
rowing. The character of the country has
become more mountaneous, rising up several
thousands of feet, and here and there ihe
mountain peaks assuming the most grotesque
shapes, in several places to the naked
eye appearing like the ruins of an old em-
battled tower, here you would suppo.se was
the ruin of an impregnable citadel, and
again conical peaks rising up like live sen-
tinels against the horizon. We pass many
beautiful i)ark-like bottom land studded
with cotton-wood trees of a large size, look-
ing like old English deer-parks, the ground
being clothed with a rich verdure, The
river pursues its ever winding course, now
narrowing and deeping, and again widening
out and becoming ho shallow as to necessi-

tate the constant use of the lead to avoid the
sand banks.

So far we have had cool, sometimes cold
weather, and consequently no musquitoes, tor
two days winter clothing and overcoats on
deck and ttres in the sal loon are quite in
order.

We have just passed the Musselshell
River, near which is the ford by which the
Indians from the north have been in the
habit of crossing the Missouri on their way
south. In the vicinity ot the ruins of the
ford is the grave of a white frontiersman, who
was killed in an engagement with Indians
in 1869, at which one white and twelve In-
dians lost their lives.

To the south of the Musselshell River is
a tract of grazing land, said to be the best in
Montana, and on which the Montana Stock
Company have their rauche.

! THE SUN OANCK.

On the north side of the river we saw the
sun-dance poles. This is the second of these
camps we have seen, a great vlance having
just been concludcti at Wolf Toini a day or
two before our arrival.

PUAiuifc: i»o(is.

This afternoon wc suddenly turned a bend
of the river and came on what the captain of
the steamer called a prairie dog village.
These curious animals burrow in the ground
and throw up earth nioun<lK, in the openings
of whi( h they bask in the sun and utter their
peculiar bark. There were several hundreds
of these mounds. Their activity in disap-
pearing seemed to be almost as tiuick as the
rifle ball. Some of our party tired several
shots at them without elfecl so far as we
could fee.

HAbK-BKEEl) CAMI'.

Aiiout live miles further on we came upon
a halt-breeil camp. As we stopped forwoorl,
we went ashore ; id found them to bo F'rench-
(Jana'.lian Indians from Wood Mountain.
They spoke the French patois, some spoke
broken English. They also spoke Sioux,
Cree and Blackfoot Indian. They were a
wandering band, most of them well-known
to Captain Clarke, who captured the band on
the ev«! of an engagement with Indians at
Milk riv<'r in 187H, on suspicion of supi)ly-
ing the b-stiles with arms and ammunition,
and compelled them either to take the oath
of allegiance or return to Canada. Some did
the former, and some re-crossed into the
Dominion. In physique, manners, dress and

comfort, they compared very unfavorably
with the full blood Indians. Here we met a
descending Hteamer, the Far West, and mail-
ed our letters on her.

FORT CAIIROL.

In the evening we arrived at Fort Carrol,
wiiere we stopped for wood and to clean the
boilers. It was raining heavily, yet this did
not prevent the mixed population, consisting
of Blark-feet Indians, half-hreeds and whites,
crowding down to the steamboat. It is said to
i>e the worst place in point of morals in this
whole western country. Two nights before
our arrival a white who hud a quarrel with
an Indian about a squew was enticed out of
his cabin by the Indian on pretext of arrang-
ing peaceably their ditticulty, wlieii, with a
treachery characteristic of the Indians, an
accomplice immediately commenced liring at
the white, wlio, however, was a matdi for
them, and turning round he. slmtthedcct^ivcr
dead, and, sending a bullet crasliing through
the brain ot the otlier, he tli(;n tied to tlu;
military camp and reported the ocur-
renc«;. The otlicor in command ad-
vised him to get out of reacli as
quiclcly as possible. The tribe, who wore out
hunting were at once notified, and returning
went to the military camp to demand the
white, who, fortunately, had gone. The otK •
ter moved his camp six miles tioju the plac^e
and immeiliately reported the occurrence to
headcjuarters. The Indians at this |)la(:c arc
poor, Bqualid, and idle. We were informed
that tw») barrels of whiskey had arrived at
the place tliis morning ; already we saw
three Indians drunk. As tins is not an
Indian reservation it seems unfair that they
should he allowed by the Govertnnerit to re-
main here in such degradation.

LITTLE TWO-BITS.

Lieutenant Floyd, United States Cavalry,
pointed out a bright little five-year ohl
Indian boy named " Two-bits " who, a few
weeks ago was brought to Carrol by his un-
natural pareuts and sold for two-bits or
twenty-five cents, to a gambler, who was al-
ready desirous of getting rid of liiin, and we
were informed that h<; couhl be purchased
for tiie sum of one dollar. One of the party
was so struck by the circumstances of the
case, and the bright, independent manner of
the little fellow that he almost concluded to
make the purchase, and probably would
have done so, were it not for the
long and arduous journey yet before us.

We are now in what are popularly known
as "the bad lands," high clay banks, with
precipitous mountains, rising probably 1,000
feet, here and there assuming peculiar
shapes — now you would imagine you saw on
the summit the remains of a castle of the
olden time, now an embattled tower, here a
tall, chimney-like spire of clay, capped by a
flat rock nf shale.

WHKRK CHIEF JOSEPH CAPTURED 0. 8. GOVERNMENT
STOHE8.

We passed Cow Island wheie, in 1879,
about a dozen soldiers who were guarding
the Government stores, of which this is a
depot from whence th<!y are teamed to Fort
Benton, wtue attacked by Cliief Joseph and
his l)and of Nes Perces Indians, who came
down in one of the cooleys, crossed the river
to (.!ow Island and thence to the opposite
shore, where they were challenged by the
guard and a hot fight ensued, during which
the military had to retreat to the top of the
plateau, leaving one of their number dead
on the bank and the stores in the hands of
Josejih and his band of warriors. General
Mills, who was in hot pursuit of then, hear-
ing of this fresh outrage, pushed forward,
overlook and captured them at Bear
Paw Mountain, about forty miles from
Cow Island. Our informant, on being
asked what punishment General Mills
inflictc^d on tlies(^ Indians, replied just
what they always do. Joseph was well-fed,
rested, had a fresh supply of l)lankets and
ammunition, and sent back to his own reser-
vation and turned loose, on his promising
not to give any more trouble. It is the
general impression (»t the frontiersmen whom
we met on the journey, that the United States
Government were to blame for agreatdeal of
the Indian trouble by the leniency with
which they treated them when caught in
the act ot rebellion or murder. We have,
to-day, seen some deer, antelopes and one
mountain sheep, at which several harmless
shots were disciiarged.

A STORMY NIGHT.

The night set in dark and drizzling, grad-
ually rising wind and lowering temperature
and towards morning it blew a gate, and our
progress, not fast at any time, now become,
dead slow until we reached a wood-yard
where we tied up for several hours. As a
prelude to the stormy night an accident,
trivial in itself but sufficient on such a trip

to cause a little amuRement, occurred to our
neighbors in the adjoining room. No. I was
in the upper bed fast asleep, when just as
S ? No. 2 was about to get in below, with a loud

crash down came the bed, anci No. I was
found head down and heels up — being ex-
tracted from his uncomfortable position by
his friend. Night was made hideous by the
uncontrollable laughter of the pair, which
was communicated to the rooms on
each side, and it was some time
before we got to sleep again. Pulling
the steamer over the rapids by a rope.
We arrived at the most difficult rapid
to stem on the whole river at 3 p.m. to-day.
It is called " Dead Man's Rapid," from the
fact of nearly all those who are drowned
above come to the surface here. It is over
one hundred and twenty miles from Fort
Benton. Several times the steamer unsuc-
cessfully tried to stem the current ; once she
grounded on a ledge of rock, and finally it
was found necessary to put a line ashore
fully 1,000 feet up the bank where it was
fastened to a <' Dead Man," and by aid of the
windlass she was gradually pulled up and

over the rushing current, which here runs
with great rapidity.

During the day we have passed several
cattle ranges on which the stock looked re-
markably well as seen at a distance. We
were informed that on these ranges the cattle
were tolerably well bred.

Our course to-day lay through great high
banks of hardened clay, which has been
washed by the rains into most extraordinary
shapes. Early this morning we passed a
peculiar wall of lava, in the distance, it
would be difficult to distinguish it from an
artiflcially-built wall.

The chief point of interest to-day was the
calling at the Coal Banks, which is a tele-
graph station, and here a company of United
States soldiers are in camp during the sum-
mer to receive and distribute stores to the
other posts. Here we parted with four of our
fellow-passengern. The weather is lovely,
bright clear and w um ; the change is most
enjoyable, and has improved the health and
brightened the spirits of both men and
animals, and in twenty-four hours more we
reached Fort Benton.

!«

ire runs

fleveral
)ked re-
?e. We
le cattle

at high
19 been
ordinary
assed a
ance, it
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